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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Quilts, by Marie D. Webster
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Quilts
+ Their Story and How to Make Them
+
+
+Author: Marie D. Webster
+
+
+
+Release Date: February 24, 2008 [eBook #24682]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK QUILTS***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Audrey Longhurst, Sam W., and the Project Gutenberg
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+ file which includes the original illustrations.
+ See 24682-h.htm or 24682-h.zip:
+ (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/4/6/8/24682/24682-h/24682-h.htm)
+ or
+ (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/4/6/8/24682/24682-h.zip)
+
+
+
+
+
+QUILTS
+
+Their Story and How to Make Them
+
+by
+
+MARIE D. WEBSTER
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Illustrated
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Garden City New York
+Doubleday, Page & Company
+1916
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: INDIANA WREATH
+
+Made in 1858. Colours: red, green, yellow, and pink]
+
+
+
+
+Copyright, 1915, by
+Doubleday, Page & Company
+All rights reserved, including that of
+translation into foreign languages,
+including the Scandinavian
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+ CHAPTER PAGE
+ Introduction xv
+
+ I. Patchwork in Antiquity 3
+
+ II. Patchwork and Quilting During the Middle Ages 16
+
+ III. Patchwork and Quilting in Old England 34
+
+ IV. The Quilt in America 60
+
+ V. How Quilts Are Made 89
+
+ VI. Quilt Names 115
+
+ VII. Quilt Collections and Exhibitions 133
+
+ VIII. The Quilt's Place in American Life 149
+
+ List of Quilt Names, Arranged Alphabetically 169
+
+ List of References 177
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF COLOUR PLATES
+
+
+ Indiana Wreath _Frontispiece_
+
+ FACING PAGE
+ *The Bedtime Quilt 24
+
+ The Iris Design 40
+
+ Morning Glories 56
+
+ Daisy Quilt 72
+
+ *Poppy Design 86
+
+ *The Sunflower Quilt 102
+
+ "Pink Rose" Design 120
+
+ *The "Wind-blown Tulip" Design 134
+
+ Golden Butterflies and Pansies 140
+
+ The "Snowflake" Quilt Design 146
+
+ *The Dogwood Quilt 150
+
+ The Wild Rose 156
+
+ *Morning Glory 160
+
+ *"Keepsake Quilt" 164
+
+ * Made by Marie Webster.
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF BLACK AND WHITE ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+ FACING PAGE
+ Section of Funeral Tent of an Egyptian Queen, Made
+ in a Patchwork of Coloured Goatskins 4
+
+ Old English Applique 5
+
+ Fifth Century Applique 6
+
+ Armenian Patchwork: St. George and the Dragon 7
+
+ Persian Quilted Linen Bath Carpet: Seventeenth Century 10
+
+ Old English Hanging with Applique Figures 11
+
+ Modern Egyptian Patchwork: Four Cushion Covers 12
+
+ Modern Egyptian Patchwork: Panels for Screens 13
+
+ Modern Egyptian Patchwork: Panels for Wall Decoration 16
+
+ Double Nine Patch 17
+
+ Pieced Baskets 20
+
+ Bedroom, Cochran Residence, Deerfield, Mass. 21
+
+ Jacob's Ladder 28
+
+ Conventional Tulip 29
+
+ Old German Applique, Metropolitan Museum, New York 32
+
+ Double X 33
+
+ Puss-in-the-Corner 34
+
+ Tea Leaves 35
+
+ Feather Star 38
+
+ Drunkard's Path 39
+
+ Star of the East 42
+
+ White Quilt with Tufted Border, Metropolitan Museum,
+ New York 43
+
+ Sunburst and Wheel of Fortune 46
+
+ Tree of Paradise 47
+
+ Old Bed and Trundle Bed 48
+
+ Two White Tufted Bedspreads 49
+
+ Tufted Bedspread with Knotted Fringe 52
+
+ Unknown Star 53
+
+ Combination Rose 54
+
+ Double Tulip 55
+
+ Princess Feathers 58
+
+ Princess Feathers with Border 59
+
+ Peonies 60
+
+ North Carolina Lily 61
+
+ Feather Star with Applique 64
+
+ Tulip Tree Leaves 65
+
+ Mexican Rose 66
+
+ Currants and Cockscomb 67
+
+ Conventional Applique 70
+
+ Single Tulip 71
+
+ Ohio Rose 74
+
+ Rose of Sharon 75
+
+ Original Floral Designs 78
+
+ Conventional Tulip 79
+
+ Conventional Rose 80
+
+ Conventional Rose Wreath 81
+
+ Poinsettia 84
+
+ Whig Rose 85
+
+ Harrison Rose 92
+
+ Detail of Harrison Rose, Showing Quilting 93
+
+ Original Rose Design 96
+
+ Pineapple Design 97
+
+ Virginia Rose 100
+
+ Rose of LeMoine 101
+
+ Charter Oak 108
+
+ Puffed Quilt of Silk 109
+
+ Variegated Hexagon, Silk 112
+
+ Roman Stripe, Silk 113
+
+ American Log Cabin, Silk and Wool 116
+
+ Democrat Rose 117
+
+ Original Rose No. 3 124
+
+ White Quilt, Stuffed Designs 125
+
+ White Quilt 128
+
+ Old Ladies Quilting 129
+
+ Quilts on a Line 136
+
+ *Grapes 137
+
+ * Made by Marie Webster.
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS IN TEXT
+
+QUILTING DESIGNS
+
+
+ PAGE
+ Single Diagonal Lines 93
+
+ Double Diagonal Lines 93
+
+ Triple Diagonal Lines 93
+
+ Diamonds 99
+
+ Hanging Diamonds 99
+
+ Broken Plaid 99
+
+ Rope 104
+
+ Shell 104
+
+ Fan 104
+
+ Feathers in Bands 105
+
+ Feathers in Waved Lines 105
+
+ Feathers in Circles 105
+
+ Three Original Quilting Designs from Old Quilts 108
+
+ Design from an Old English Quilt 112
+
+ Medallion Design 112
+
+ Pineapple 112
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+
+Although the quilt is one of the most familiar and necessary articles
+in our households, its story is yet to be told. In spite of its
+universal use and intimate connection with our lives, its past is a
+mystery which--at the most--can be only partially unravelled.
+
+The quilt has a tradition of long centuries of slow but certain
+progress. Its story is replete with incidents of love and daring, of
+sordid pilferings and generous sacrifices. It has figured in many a
+thrilling episode. The same type of handiwork that has sheltered the
+simple peasant from wintry blasts has adorned the great halls of
+doughty warriors and noble kings. Humble maids, austere nuns, grand
+dames, and stately queens; all have shared in the fascination of the
+quilter's art and have contributed to its advancement. Cottage,
+convent, and castle; all have been enriched, at one time or another,
+by the splendours of patchwork and the pleasures of its making.
+
+In its suitability for manufacture within the home, the quilt
+possesses a peculiar merit. Although exposed for a full century to the
+competition of machinery, under the depressing influence of which most
+of the fireside crafts have all but vanished, the making of quilts as
+a home industry has never languished. Its hold on the affections of
+womankind has never been stronger than it is to-day. As a homemaker,
+the quilt is a most capable tool lying ready at the hand of every
+woman. The selection of design, the care in piecing, the patience in
+quilting; all make for feminine contentment and domestic happiness.
+
+There are more quilts being made at the present time--in the great
+cities as well as in the rural communities--than ever before, and
+their construction as a household occupation--and recreation--is
+steadily increasing in popularity. This should be a source of much
+satisfaction to all patriotic Americans who believe that the true
+source of our nation's strength lies in keeping the family hearth
+flame bright.
+
+As known to-day, the quilt is the result of combining two kinds of
+needlework, both of very ancient origin, but widely different in
+character. Patchwork--the art of piecing together fabrics of various
+kinds and colours or laying patches of one kind upon another, is a
+development of the primitive desire for adornment. Quilting--the
+method of fastening together layers of cloths in such a manner as to
+secure firmly the loose materials uniformly spread between them, has
+resulted from the need of adequate protection against rigorous
+climates. The piecing and patching provide the maker with a suitable
+field for the display of artistic ability, while the quilting calls
+for particular skill in handling the needle. The fusing of these two
+kinds of needlework into a harmonious combination is a task that
+requires great patience and calls for talent of no mean order.
+
+To our grandmothers quilt making meant social pleasure as well as
+necessary toil, and to their grandmothers it gave solace during long
+vigils in pioneer cabins. The work of the old-time quilters possesses
+artistic merit to a very high degree. While much of it was designed
+strictly for utilitarian purposes--in fact, more for rugged service
+than display, yet the number of beautiful old quilts which these
+industrious ancestors have bequeathed to us is very large. Every now
+and then there comes to light one of these old quilts of the most
+exquisite loveliness, in which the needlework is almost painful in its
+exactness. Such treasures are worthy of study and imitation, and are
+deserving of careful preservation for the inspiration of future
+generations of quilters.
+
+To raise in popular esteem these most worthy products of home
+industry, to add to the appreciation of their history and traditions,
+to give added interest to the hours of labour which their construction
+involves, to present a few of the old masterpieces to the quilters of
+to-day; such is the purpose of this book of quilts.
+
+ _Marion, Indiana_
+ _March 18, 1915._
+
+
+
+
+QUILTS
+
+THEIR STORY AND
+HOW TO MAKE THEM
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+PATCHWORK IN ANTIQUITY
+
+
+The origin of the domestic arts of all nations is shrouded in mystery.
+Since accurate dates cannot be obtained, traditional accounts must be
+accepted. The folklore of any country is always exceedingly
+interesting and generally has a few kernels of fact imbedded somewhere
+in its flowers of legend, although some of our most familiar household
+objects are not even mentioned by tradition. Spinning and weaving,
+however, are very generously treated in the mythology and folklore of
+all nations. Nearly every race has some legend in which claim is made
+to the discovery of these twin arts.
+
+In Biblical lore Naa-mah, a sister of Tubal Cain, belonging to the
+seventh generation after Cain, is said to have invented both spinning
+and weaving. This tradition is strengthened by the assertions of some
+historians that the Phrygians were the oldest of races, since their
+birthplace was in Armenia, which in turn is credited with having the
+Garden of Eden within its boundaries. The Chinese also can advance
+very substantial claims that primeval man was born with eyes aslant.
+They at least have a fixed date for the invention of the loom. This
+was in 2640 B. C. by Lady of Si-Ling, the wife of a famous emperor,
+Huang-ti.
+
+The Egyptians who, according to their traditions, sprung from the
+soil, and who despised the Greeks for their late coming into the human
+arena, were probably quite as ancient as the Phrygians. It is known
+positively that in the wonderful valley of the Nile there has lived
+for more than six thousand years a race remarkable for its inventive
+faculties and the developing of the industrial arts. In the first dawn
+of human progress, while his nomadic neighbours roamed carefree about
+him, the Egyptian toiled steadily, and left the records of his
+achievements beside his God, the Nile.
+
+ [Illustration: SECTION OF FUNERAL TENT OF AN EGYPTIAN
+ QUEEN
+
+ Made in a patchwork of coloured goatskins]
+
+ [Illustration: OLD ENGLISH APPLIQUE
+
+ Figure of a knight on horseback. Thirteenth century]
+
+When investigating any subject, the ability to see the actual thing
+itself is more helpful than pages of description. In Egypt are
+preserved for us thousands of wonderful tombs which serve as
+storehouses of facts concerning the early civilization of this
+land. The mummy wrappings reveal very distinctly the development of
+the textiles and decorative arts. The Egyptians, since the earliest
+historical times, were always celebrated for their manufacture of
+linen, cotton, and woollen cloths, and the products of their looms
+were eagerly sought by surrounding nations. The fine linen and
+embroidered work, yarns and woollen fabrics of both upper and lower
+Egypt, were held in the highest esteem.
+
+Sir J. Gardner Wilkinson, in his history of "Ancient Egypt," tells of
+their knowledge of dyeing and of the nature of the fabrics found in
+the tombs: "The quantity of linen manufactured and used in Egypt was
+very great; and, independent of that made up into articles of dress,
+the numerous wrappers required for enveloping the mummies, both of men
+and animals, show how large a supply must have been kept ready for the
+constant demand at home as well as for that of the foreign market."
+
+"The actual experiments made, with the aid of powerful microscopes ...
+on the nature of the fibres of linen and cotton threads, have shown
+that the former invariably present a cylindrical form, transparent,
+and articulated, or joined like a cane, while the latter offer the
+appearance of a flat riband, with a hem or border at each edge; so
+that there is no possibility of mistaking the fibres of either,
+except, perhaps, when the cotton is in an unripe state, and the
+flattened shape of the centre is less apparent. The results having
+been found similar in every instance, and the structure of the fibres
+thus unquestionably determined, the threads of mummy cloths were
+submitted to the same test, and no exception was found to their being
+linen, nor were they even a mixture of linen and cotton."
+
+"Another very remarkable discovery of the Egyptians was the use of
+mordants. They were acquainted with the effect of acids on colour, and
+submitted the cloth they dyed to one of the same processes adopted in
+our modern manufactories; and while, from his account, we perceive how
+little Pliny understood the process he was describing, he at the same
+time gives us the strongest evidence of its truth."
+
+ [Illustration: FIFTH CENTURY APPLIQUE]
+
+ [Illustration: ARMENIAN PATCHWORK
+
+ Illustrating the story of St. George and the dragon, and
+ other Christian subjects]
+
+"In Egypt," he says, "they stain cloths in a wonderful manner. They
+take them in their original state, quite white, and imbue them, not
+with a dye, but with certain drugs which have the power of absorbing
+and taking colour. When this is done, there is still no appearance
+of change in the cloths; but so soon as they are dipped into a bath of
+the pigment, which has been prepared for the purpose, they are taken
+out properly coloured. The singular thing is, that though the bath
+contains only one colour, several hues are imparted to the piece,
+these changes depending on the natures of the drug employed; nor can
+the colour be afterward washed off; and surely if the bath had many
+colours in it, they must have presented a confused appearance on the
+cloth."
+
+The ability of the Egyptians to have a variety of colours for use in
+their embroideries and patchworks contributed much to the beauty of
+these arts.
+
+Embroidery in various forms, applied to all sorts of objects, was
+commonly practised throughout ancient Egypt, and the Israelites, at
+the time of the Exodus, carried their knowledge of the textile arts
+with them to India. Ezekiel in chapter twenty-seven, verse seven, in
+telling of the glories of Tyre, says: "Of fine linen with broidered
+work Egypt was thy sail, that it might be to thee for an ensign." In
+"De Bello Judaico," by Flavius Josephus, another reference is made to
+ancient needlework: "When Herod the Great rebuilt the temple of
+Jerusalem nineteen years before our era, he was careful not to omit in
+the decoration of the sanctuary the marvels of textile art which had
+been the chief embellishment of the tabernacle during the long
+wanderings in the desert. Before the doors of the most sacred place he
+hung a Babylonian tapestry fifty cubits high by sixteen wide: azure
+and flax, scarlet and purple were blended in it with admirable art and
+rare ingenuity, for these represented the various elements. Scarlet
+signified fire; linen, the earth; azure, the air; and purple, the sea.
+These meanings were derived in two instances from similarity of
+colour: in the other two from their origin, the earth yielding linen
+and the sea purple. The whole range of the heavens, except the signs,
+was wrought upon this veil or hanging. The porticos were also enriched
+with many coloured tapestries ornamented with purple flowers."
+
+There is very meagre information concerning the character and style of
+tapestry in Egypt during the rule of the Pharaohs. MM. Perrot and
+Chipiex, in their "Histoire de l'Art dans l'Antiquite," publish a
+painting containing a hanging of purely ornamental design formed of
+circles, triangles, and palm leaves reversed. Wilkinson describes an
+Egyptian hanging--an original, not a reproduction--found in an English
+collection: "In the centre, on a green ground, stands a boy in white,
+with a goose beside him; and around this centre a border of red and
+blue lines; then white figures on a yellow ground; again blue lines
+and red ornaments; and lastly red, white, and blue embroideries." This
+is a very ancient example of true applied work combined with
+embroidery. In the Psalms it is said that Pharaoh's daughter shall be
+brought to the king in a raiment of needlework and that "her clothing
+is of wrought gold."
+
+The huge columns, bas-reliefs, and the various architectural details
+of the early Egyptian buildings were all decorated in vivid colours.
+The interiors of their temples were also covered with gayly coloured
+scenes which have preserved for us a most extensive knowledge of their
+life and customs. Their mummy cases were painted in the most brilliant
+hues, and often the wrappings of the mummies themselves bore brightly
+coloured portraits of the deceased. Since the Egyptians lived in an
+atmosphere of brilliant colour, with ever-shining sun, the bluest of
+skies, and the purple glow of the desert always before them, it is
+not surprising that they used their brushes with lavish hand. Every
+plane surface called for ornamentation, whether on temple or shroud.
+Their pigments, both mineral and vegetable, were remarkable for their
+permanence.
+
+The crude and childish way in which the Egyptians applied their paint
+in distinct patches would lead one to believe that patchwork was
+included in their earliest needlework, even if no actual proof
+existed. But all nations have at some period used the needle to copy
+the masterpieces of great artists. The English, as a typical example
+of this spirit of imitation, sought on a background of cloth of gold
+to embroider the saints from the canvas of Fra Angelico. Also the
+French, in the manufacture of their tapestries, copied the works of
+many of the old masters. Positive proof of the existence of patchwork,
+or as some choose to call it, "applied work," in Egypt at a very early
+period is found on a robe belonging to an early sovereign. This
+article of apparel was of linen and, in general design, resembled a
+modern apron. According to Wilkinson, it was "richly ornamented in
+front with lions' heads and other devices, probably of coloured
+leather; and the border was formed of a row of asps, the emblem of
+royalty. Sometimes the royal name with an asp on each side was
+embroidered upon it."
+
+ [Illustration: PERSIAN QUILTED LINEN BATH CARPET
+
+ Seventeenth century]
+
+ [Illustration: OLD ENGLISH HANGING WITH APPLIQUE
+ FIGURES]
+
+The most ancient example of patchwork is a coloured gazelle hide
+presented in the Museum of Cairo. The colours of the different pieces
+of skin are bright pink, deep golden yellow, pale primrose, bluish
+green, and pale blue. This patchwork served as the canopy or pall of
+an Egyptian queen about the year 960 B. C. She was the mother-in-law
+of Shishak, who besieged and captured Jerusalem shortly after the
+death of Solomon. On its upper border this interesting specimen has
+repeated scarabs, cartouches with inscriptions, discs, and serpents.
+The lower border has a central device of radiating lotus flowers; this
+is flanked by two narrow panels with cartouches; beyond these are two
+gazelles facing toward the lotus device. Next to the gazelles on each
+side is a curious detail consisting of two oddly shaped ducks, back to
+back; then come the two outer compartments of the border, each of
+which enclose a winged beetle, or scarabaeus, bearing a disc or emblem
+of the sun. The other main division of the field is spotted in regular
+order with open blossom forms. There is decided order in the
+repetition and arrangement of these details, which gives a rather
+stiff and formal look to the whole design.
+
+To-day Egyptians are making patchwork that is undoubtedly a
+development of the very art practised in the days of Ptolemy, Rameses,
+and Cleopatra. They do not use their patchwork to adorn quilts, since
+these are unknown in the warm Nile valley, but as covers for cushions,
+panels for screens, and decorations suitable for wall hangings.
+Generally but two kinds of material are employed in its construction:
+a rather loosely woven cotton cloth, and a firm, coarse linen. The
+cottons used are all gayly dyed in plain colours, and the linens are
+in the natural shades, with perhaps a slight mixture of white. The
+patchwork designs are typically Egyptian, many pieces being covered
+with replicas of paintings found on tombs and temples. These paintings
+are copied as faithfully in colour as in design, even the
+hieroglyphics being exactly reproduced, and altogether make very
+striking and effective decorations.
+
+ [Illustration: MODERN EGYPTIAN PATCHWORK
+
+ Four cushion covers]
+
+ [Illustration: MODERN EGYPTIAN PATCHWORK
+
+ Panels for screens]
+
+The modern Egyptians have the innate taste and ability of all
+Orientals for harmonizing colour. Their universal use of black to
+outline and define most of the designs produces a beautiful harmony
+between otherwise clashing hues. With nearly as many shades at their
+disposal in cloth as a painter has in paint, they are quite ambitious
+in their attempts to produce realistic scenes. On some of the best
+specimens of modern Egyptian patchwork gods and goddesses are shown
+sitting enthroned surrounded by attendants and slaves bearing trophies
+of war and chase as offerings to the divine beings. On others, groups
+of men and women are shown, humbly presenting salvers of fruit and the
+sacred flower--the lotus--to their gods. Some of the most effective
+work is decorated with a simple life-size figure of Osiris or Rameses
+the Great in brilliant colours. A few of the more subdued patchwork
+designs consist of a solitary scarab, the sacred beetle of the
+Pharaohs, or an asp or two gracefully entwined. The smaller pieces
+make practical and admirable cushion covers. There are many attractive
+shops in Cairo that sell quantities of this gay patchwork, and few
+tourists leave Egypt without a specimen or two as mementoes of the
+paintings that give us a glimpse of Egypt's ancient splendour.
+
+While among the ancient Greeks and Romans all the arts of the needle
+were held in the greatest esteem, comparatively little attention was
+paid to the adornment of their sleeping apartments. Accounts of early
+Greek houses state that, while the bedchambers were hung all about
+with curtains and draperies, these were usually of plain fabrics with
+little attempt at decoration. Of patchwork or applique, as known to
+the Egyptians and Hebrews, the Greeks and Romans have left us no
+trace. However, as substantiating the regard shown for needlework by
+the Greeks and Romans, the following two pleasing myths have come down
+to us: one, the "Story of Arachne," as related by Ovid; the other from
+the "Odyssey" of Homer.
+
+Arachne, a most industrious needleworker, had the audacity to contest
+against Pallas, the goddess of the art of weaving. With her bobbins,
+Arachne wove such wonderful pictures of the Loves of the Gods that
+Pallas, conscious of having been surpassed by a mortal, in an outburst
+of anger struck her. Arachne, humiliated by the blow, and unable to
+avenge it, hanged herself in despair. Whereupon the goddess relented,
+and with the intention of gratifying Arachne's passionate love of
+weaving, transformed her into a spider and bade her weave on forever.
+
+The other interesting incident of ancient times is that of Penelope's
+patient weaving. It is related that, after one short year of wedded
+happiness, her husband Ulysses was called to take part in the Trojan
+War. Not a single message having been received from him by Penelope
+during his long absence, a doubt finally arose as to his being still
+alive. Numerous suitors then sought her hand, but Penelope begged for
+time and sought to put them off with many excuses. One of her devices
+for delay was that of being very busy preparing a funeral robe for
+Ulysses' father. She announced that she would be unable to choose
+another husband until after this robe was finished. Day after day she
+industriously wove, spending patient hours at her loom, but each night
+secretly ravelled out the product of her day's labour. By this
+stratagem Penelope restrained the crowd of ardent suitors up to the
+very day of Ulysses' return.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+PATCHWORK AND QUILTING DURING THE MIDDLE AGES
+
+
+In the early days of Christianity the various organizations of the
+mother church took a deep interest in all the textile arts, and we are
+indebted to the ecclesiastical orders for what progress was made in
+needlework during the beginning of the Middle Ages. The makers of
+church hangings and vestments were stimulated by thoughts of the
+spiritual blessings with which they were assured their work would be
+rewarded. Much of this early ecclesiastic needlework is extremely
+elaborate and was always eagerly desired by the holy orders. At one
+time the craze for gorgeous vestments reached such an extreme that we
+have record of one worthy bishop chiding his priests because they
+"carried their religion on their backs instead of in their hearts."
+
+ [Illustration: MODERN EGYPTIAN PATCHWORK
+
+ Panels for wall decoration]
+
+ [Illustration: DOUBLE NINE PATCH
+
+ Made in Ohio in 1808. Colours: blue and white, and
+ beautifully quilted]
+
+The artistic needlework of the Christian era consists almost
+entirely of embroidery; no positive reference to patchwork or quilting
+being found in western Europe prior to the time of the Crusades. But
+with this great movement, thousands of the most intelligent men in
+Europe, urged by religious enthusiasm combined with love of adventure,
+forced their way into eastern countries whose culture and refinements
+of living far surpassed their own. The luxuries which they found in
+Syria were eagerly seized and carried home to all the western lands.
+Returning Crusaders exhibited fine stuffs of every description that
+roused the envy of all who obtained a glimpse of them. A vigorous
+commerce with the east was immediately stimulated. From Syria
+merchants brought into Italy, Spain, and France silks and cottons to
+supplement the native linen and wool, and also many kinds of
+embroidered work of a quality much finer than ever known before. As a
+result dyeing, weaving, and needlework entered on an era of great
+development.
+
+Previous to the eleventh century so memorable in the history of the
+Crusaders, references to quilting and patchwork are few and uncertain,
+but from that time on these twin arts became more and more conspicuous
+in the needlecraft of nearly every country in western Europe. This is
+explained by the stimulus which was given to these arts by the
+specimens of applique hangings and garments brought from Syria, where
+the natives wrought for centuries the identical applied work carried
+into Palestine from Egypt in Biblical times by the Hebrews and the
+Phoenicians.
+
+About the earliest applied work of which we have record were the
+armorial bearings of the Crusaders. A little later came rather
+elaborate designs applied to their cloaks and banners. Among other
+specimens of Old English needlework is a piece of applied work at
+Stonyhurst College depicting a knight on horseback. That this knight
+represents a Crusader is beyond question since the cross, the insignia
+of the cause, is a prominent figure in the ornamentation of the
+knight's helmet and shield, and is also prominent on the blanket on
+the horse.
+
+Noticeable progress in the arts of both quilting and applique was made
+during the Middle Ages in Spain. Spanish women have always been noted
+for their cleverness with the needle, and quite a few of the stitches
+now in use are credited to them. At the time of King Ferdinand and
+Queen Isabella, applied work had long been known. Whether it
+developed from imitating garments brought home by the returning
+Crusaders, or was adopted from the Moors, who gave the best of their
+arts to Spain during the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, cannot
+be positively stated. However, it is worthy of notice that whenever
+the Christian came in contact with the Moor, a great advance in the
+textile arts of the former could generally be observed. This holds
+true even down to this day, our eagerness to possess the rugs of
+Turkey and Afghanistan, and the imitation of these designs in the
+manufacture of domestic carpets, being a case in point.
+
+During the reign of King Philip II, 1527-1598, the grandees of the
+Spanish court wore beautifully wrought garments, rich with applied
+work and embroidery. A sixteenth-century hanging of silk and velvet
+applique, now preserved in Madrid, is typical of the best Spanish
+work. It is described as having a gray-green silk foundation, on which
+are applied small white silk designs outlined with yellow cord;
+alternating with the green silk are bands of dark red velvet with
+ornamented designs cut from the green silk, and upon which are small
+pieces of white silk representing berries. Also, another handsome
+specimen of Spanish applied work of the seventeenth century is a linen
+curtain richly embellished with heraldic emblems couched with gold
+thread. Horse trappings and reposters, loaded with applique flowers
+cut from gold and silver cloth, were much in evidence among the
+Spanish nobility of this period.
+
+Of particular interest, as showing how oriental quilting designs
+filtered into Europe through the intercourse of the early Portuguese
+traders and missionaries with the East Indies, is the brief mention by
+Margaret S. Burton of a very elaborate old quilt now in a New York
+collection: "My next find was a tremendous bed quilt which is used as
+a portiere for double folding doors. It formed part of a collection of
+hangings owned by the late Stanford White. He claimed there were only
+four of its kind in existence, and this the only one in America. It is
+valued at $1,000. It is a Portuguese bed quilt and was embroidered
+centuries ago by the Portuguese missionary monks sent to India. They
+were commissioned by their queen to embroider them for her to present
+as wedding gifts to her favourite ladies-in-waiting." On account of
+intricacy and originality of design this quilt represents years of
+patient work. It is hand embroidered in golden coloured floss upon a
+loosely woven linen which had been previously quilted very closely.
+The work is in chain stitch, and there are at least fifty different
+stitch patterns. In the centre panel is the sacred cat of India. Doves
+bearing olive branches, pomegranates, daisies, and passion flowers are
+intermingled in the beautiful design.
+
+ [Illustration: PIECED BASKETS
+
+ A design much used by the old-time quilt makers. This
+ quilt, which is about 85 years old, is unusual, in that
+ the baskets are so small]
+
+ [Illustration: INTERIOR OF BEDROOM
+
+ Cochran residence, Deerfield, Mass., showing colonial
+ bedstead with quilt and canopy]
+
+While the uses of patchwork were known over Europe long before the
+Renaissance, some credit its introduction, into Italy at least, to the
+Florentine painter, Botticelli (1446-1510). The applied work, or
+"thought work," of the Armenians so appealed to him that he used it on
+hangings for church decoration. Under his influence the use of the
+applied work, _opus conservetum_, for chapel curtains and draperies
+was greatly extended. In time these simple patchwork hangings were
+supplanted by the mural paintings and tapestries now so famous. There
+are still in existence some rare pieces of Italian needlework of the
+sixteenth century having designs of fine lace interspersed among the
+embroidered applique of silk.
+
+A homely cousin of the gorgeous _opus conservetum_, which has filled
+its useful though humble office down to the present day, is the heavy
+quilted and padded leather curtain used in many Italian churches in
+lieu of a door. Many of the church doors are too massive and
+cumbersome to be opened readily by the entering worshippers, so they
+are left constantly open. Leather hangings often several inches thick
+and quilted with rows of horizontal stitches rather widely spaced, are
+hung before the open doorways. Even these curtains are often quite
+stiff and unyielding, so that holding back corners for the passage of
+both worshipper and tourist forms a favourite occupation for numerous
+beggars.
+
+Applique, described as _opus consutum_, or cut work, was made in
+Florence and Venice, chiefly for ecclesiastical purposes, during the
+height of their glory in the fifteenth century. One such piece of
+Florentine cut work is remarkable for its great beauty and the skill
+shown in bringing together both weaving and embroidery. "Much of the
+architectural accessories is loom wrought, while the extremities of
+the evangelists are all done by the needle; but the head, neck, and
+long beard are worked by themselves upon very fine linen, and
+afterward put together in such a way that the full white beard
+overlaps the tunics.... For the sake of expedition, all the figures
+were sometimes at once shaped out of woven silk, satin, velvet, linen,
+or woollen cloth, and sewed upon the grounding of the article....
+Sometimes the cut work done in this way is framed, as it were, with an
+edging either in plain or gilt leather, hempen or silken cord, like
+the leadings of a stained-glass window." Gold and silver starlike
+flowers, sewn on applique embroideries, were common to Venice and also
+southern Germany in the fifteenth century.
+
+Belonging to the Italian Renaissance period are some marvellous
+panels, once part of a curtain, which are now preserved in the South
+Kensington Museum in London. The foundation of these panels is of
+beautiful blue damask having applied designs cut from yellow satin.
+These hangings are described as being very rich in effect and
+unusually handsome, and nothing in the annals of needlework of their
+period was more glorious.
+
+A very ingenious patchwork, originating in Italy during the sixteenth
+century and peculiar to that country and Spain, consisted of patterns
+designed so as to be counter hanging. For example, if one section of a
+length of such patchwork consisted of a blue satin pattern on a yellow
+velvet ground, the adjoining section would, through the interchange of
+materials, consist of a yellow velvet pattern on a blue satin ground.
+The joints of the patching were overlaid with cord or gimp, stitched
+down so as to conceal them entirely and give definition to the forms
+constituting the pattern.
+
+Italian needleworkers were very fond of this "transposed applique upon
+two fabrics," especially when composed of designs of foliage
+conventionally treated, or of arabesques and scrolls. On a piece of
+old Milanese damask, figured with violet on violet, appear designs in
+applique cut from two shades of yellow satin. These are remarkable for
+their powerful relief, suggesting sculpture rather than embroidery,
+and have been pronounced worthy of the best masters of their
+time--namely, that period so rich in suggestions of ornament--the
+seventeenth century.
+
+ [Illustration: THE BEDTIME QUILT
+
+ With its procession of night-clad children will be
+ excellent "company" for a tot, to whom a story may be
+ told of the birds that sleep in the little trees while
+ the friendly stars keep watch]
+
+Closely related to patchwork, but not as commonly used, is "inlay." In
+the making of this style of decoration one material is not laid on to
+another, but into it. It is the fitting together of small sections
+of any desired fabric in a prearranged design. For convenience, all
+the pieces are placed upon a foundation of sufficient firmness, but
+which does not appear when the work is finished. Ornamental stitches
+conceal the seams where the edges meet, and it is especially adapted
+for making heraldic devices. During the Renaissance it was much used
+by both Spaniards and Italians, who learned the art from the Moors.
+
+An example of quilting, attributed to the Island of Sicily about the
+year 1400, is described as being a ground of buff-coloured linen. The
+raised effect is obtained by an interpadding of wool, and the designs
+are outlined in brown thread. This entire coverlet is embroidered with
+scenes from the life of Tristan, who frequently engaged in battle
+against King Langair, the oppressor of his country. This bit of
+quilting hangs in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. Another
+hanging of the fourteenth century, belonging to the same collection,
+shows a spirited naval battle between galleys. A striking peculiarity
+of this hanging is that floral designs are scattered in great
+profusion among the boats of the combatants.
+
+A patchwork made by the application of bits of leather to velvet was
+extensively used in some European countries during the Middle Ages. As
+leather did not fray and needed no sewing over at the edge, but only
+sewing down, stitching well within the edge gave the effect of a
+double outline. This combination of leather and velvet was introduced
+from Morocco. A wonderful tent of this leather patchwork, belonging to
+the French king, Francois I, was taken by the Spanish at the battle of
+Pavia (1525), and is still preserved in the armoury at Madrid.
+
+Some of the very finest specimens of the quilting of the Middle Ages
+have been preserved for us in Persia. Here the art, borrowed at a very
+early period from the Arabs, was developed in an unusual and typically
+oriental manner. Prayer rugs, carpets, and draperies of linen, silk,
+and satin were among the products of the Persian quilters.
+
+We are indebted to Mr. Alan S. Cole for the following description of a
+seventeenth-century Persian quilted bath carpet, now preserved at the
+South Kensington Museum in London. "This typical Persian embroidery is
+a linen prayer or bath carpet, the bordering or outer design of which
+partly takes the shape of the favourite Persian architectural niche
+filled in with such delicate scrolling stem ornament as is so lavishly
+used in that monument of sixteenth-century Mohammedan art, the Taj
+Mahal at Agra. In the centre of the carpet beneath the niche form is a
+thickly blossoming shrub, laid out on a strictly geometric or formal
+plan, but nevertheless depicted with a fairly close approach to the
+actual appearance of bunches of blossoms and of leaves in nature. But
+the regular and corresponding curves of the stems, and the ordered
+recurrence of the blossom bunches, give greater importance to
+ornamental character than to any intention of giving a picture of a
+tree. Similar stems, blossoms, and leaves are still more formally and
+ornamentally adapted in the border of the carpet, and to fill in the
+space between the border and the niche shape. The embroidery is of
+chain stitch with white, yellow, green, and red silks. But before this
+embroidery was taken in hand the whole of the linen was minutely
+stitched."
+
+Worthy of mention is a patchwork panel made in Resht, Persia, in the
+eighteenth century: "The foundation ground is of ivory coloured cloth,
+and applied to it, almost entirely covering the ivory background, are
+designs cut from crimson, cinnamon, pink, black, turquoise, and
+sapphire coloured cloths, all richly embroidered in marigold and green
+silk."
+
+The following is a quilt anecdote, typically oriental, which contains
+a bit of true philosophy. It seems that the hero, Nass-ed-Din Hodja,
+was a Turkish person who became chief jester to the terrible Tamerlane
+during his invasion of Asia Minor. He was also the hero, real or
+imaginary, of many other stories which originated during the close of
+the fourteenth and the beginning of the fifteenth centuries. His tomb
+is still shown at Akshekir. The story is given entire as it appeared
+in "Turkey of the Ottoman" by L. M. Garnett:
+
+
+ HOW THE HODJA LOST HIS QUILT
+
+ "One winter's night, when the Hodja and his wife were
+ snugly asleep, two men began to quarrel and fight under
+ the window. Both drew knives and the dispute threatened
+ to become serious. Hearing the noise, the Hodja's wife
+ got up, looked out of the window and, seeing the state
+ of affairs, woke her husband, saying: 'Great heavens,
+ get up and separate them or they will kill each other.'
+ But the Hodja only answered sleepily: 'Wife, dear,
+ come to bed again; on my faith there are no men in the
+ world; I wish to be quiet; it is a winter's night. I am
+ an old man, and perhaps if I went out they might beat
+ me.' The Hodja's wife was a wise woman. She kissed his
+ hands and his feet. The Hodja was cross and scolded her,
+ but he threw the quilt about him, went downstairs and
+ out to where the disputants were, and said to them: 'For
+ the sake of my white beard cease, my sons, your strife.'
+ The men, in reply, pulled the quilt from the Hodja's
+ shoulders and made off with it. 'Very well,' observed
+ the old man. He reentered, locked the door, and went
+ upstairs. Said his wife: 'You did very well to go out to
+ those men. Have they left off quarrelling?' 'They have,'
+ replied the Hodja. 'What were they quarrelling about,
+ Hodja?' 'Fool,' replied the Hodja, 'they were
+ quarrelling for my quilt. Henceforward my motto shall
+ be, "Beware of serpents."'"
+
+
+ [Illustration: JACOB'S LADDER
+
+ One of the most striking of the quilts having Biblical
+ names. Colours: blue and white]
+
+ [Illustration: CONVENTIONAL TULIP
+
+ Made in Ohio about 1840. Beautifully quilted in
+ medallions and pineapples of original design. Colors:
+ red, pink, and green]
+
+Applique, or applied work, has never been used in France to the same
+extent as in England, even though the French name "applique" is more
+frequently used than any other. However, there is one striking example
+of applique work, of Rhenish or French origin, now hanging in the
+Victoria and Albert Museum in London. This realistic patchwork
+represents a fight between an armoured knight mounted on a
+high-stepping white horse and a ferocious dragon. The designs are
+arranged in a fashion similar to the blocks in a modern quilt, and
+depict several scenes showing the progress of the combat. There is
+also a border covered closely with figures of monks, knights, and
+ladies.
+
+An extract from "First Steps in Collecting," by Grace M. Vallois,
+gives an interesting glimpse of an old French attic. An object of
+great interest to us is the old, unfinished quilt she discovered
+there: "A rummaging expedition in a French _grenier_ yields more
+treasures than one taken in an English lumber room. The French are
+more conservative; they dislike change and never throw away anything.
+Among valuable antiques found in the _grenier_ of a Louis XV house in
+the Pyrenees were some rare curtains of white linen ornamented with
+designs cut from beautiful old chintz; the edges of the applied
+designs were covered with tightly twisted cotton cord. Also, in the
+same room, in a drawer of an old chestnut-wood bureau, was found an
+unfinished bed quilt very curiously worked. It was of linen with a
+filling of rather soft cotton cord about an eighth of an inch wide.
+These cords were held in place by rows of minute stitching of white
+silk, making the bedcover almost solid needlework. Besides the
+quilting there were at rather wide intervals conventional flowers in
+peacock shades of blue and green silk executed in chain stitch. When
+found, the needle was still sticking in one of the flowers, and many
+were traced ready for work. The traced lines appear to have been made
+with India ink and were very clear and delicate. What caused the
+abrupt interruption of the old quilt no one can tell. It is possible
+that the great terror of 1793 caused the patient maker to flee from
+her unfinished task."
+
+In the countries of northern Europe there is scarcely any record
+concerning the art of quilting and patchwork, and little can be said
+beyond the fact that both existed in some form or other. In Germany
+the quilt so familiar to us is practically unknown. In the past
+applique was very little used, except as cut work, or _opus consutum_,
+in blazonments and heraldic devices. The thick feather beds of
+medieval Germany were covered with various kinds of thick comforts
+filled with either wool or feathers, and sometimes sparsely quilted.
+The only decoration of the comfort consisted of a band of ornamental
+work, ten to twenty inches wide, usually worked in cross-stitch design
+with brightly coloured yarns. These bands were generally loose upon
+the comfort, one edge being held down by the pillow, but occasionally
+they were sewed to the edge of the bedcover.
+
+In a work on arts and crafts relating to their presence in Sweden, it
+is written that "woven hangings were used to decorate the timbered
+walls of the halls of the vikings. They were hung over the temples,
+and they decorated the timber sepulchres of the dead. When the
+timbered grave of the Danish queen, Fyra Danabode, who died about 950,
+was opened, remains of woven woollen cloth were found." As far back as
+Swedish records go it can be shown that Swedish women wove and sewed
+figured material.
+
+ [Illustration: FINE EXAMPLE OF OLD GERMAN APPLIQUE
+
+ Now in the Metropolitan Museum, New York]
+
+ [Illustration: DOUBLE X
+
+ A modern quilt. Colours: blue and white]
+
+On account of the cold there is urgent need of wall hangings, and they
+are used extensively throughout Scandinavia. On festive occasions the
+stiff, cold appearance of Swedish peasants' homes is transformed by
+the gay wall coverings to one of hospitality and warmth. The hangings
+used are made of linen, either painted or embroidered in bright
+colours. The painted ones are especially interesting as they depict
+many historical scenes. Allegorical and religious subjects are also
+used to decorate many of these linen hangings. The Swedes are very
+patriotic, and on their wall hangings show all the saints clad in
+typical Swedish costumes. The apostles wear Swedish jack boots, loose
+collars, and pea jackets; and Joseph, as governor of Egypt, is shown
+wearing a three-cornered hat and smoking a pipe.
+
+There is a valuable collection of Swedish needlework in the Northern
+Museum of Stockholm, dating from 1639 to the nineteenth century. Among
+this collection there are a few small pieces of applied work: some
+cushions, glove gauntlets, and a woman's handbag. It is possible that
+patchwork was used more extensively than the museum's display would
+indicate, but since large pieces are very rarely found, patchwork was
+evidently not held in the same esteem as embroidery and painting.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+PATCHWORK AND QUILTING IN OLD ENGLAND
+
+
+In searching for the beginning of needlework in England, the first
+authentic date revealed relating directly to this subject is 709, when
+the Bishop of Sherborne writes of the skill Englishwomen had attained
+at that time in the use of the needle. Preserved in various museums are
+some examples of Anglo-Saxon embroidery of uncertain date, that are
+known to have been made before the Bishop of Sherborne's time. Mention
+should also be made of the wonderful Bayeux Tapestry. This ancient
+piece is 227 feet long and twenty inches wide, and is of great
+historical interest, in that it illustrates events of English history
+from the accession of Edward the Confessor to the English defeat at
+Hastings by the Normans in 1066. There is some doubt as to whether this
+tapestry, which has the characteristic of typical applique--namely, the
+absence of shading--is actually of English workmanship, but it is
+unquestionably of Anglo-Saxon origin. It was first hung in Bayeux
+Cathedral in 1476.
+
+ [Illustration: PUSS-IN-THE-CORNER
+
+ A beautifully quilted design made about 1855. Colours: a
+ dull green calico having small red flowers and white]
+
+ [Illustration: TEA LEAVES
+
+ A quaint old design combining a pieced block with an
+ applied leaf stem. Colours: green and white]
+
+It is a generally accepted fact that applique and embroidery are
+closely related and of about equal age, although relatively few
+examples of the former are preserved in collections of needlework. One
+of the oldest authentic bits of applique is at Stonyhurst College. It
+represents a knight clad in full armour, mounted on a spirited
+galloping horse. The horse is covered with an elaborately wrought
+blanket and has an imposing ornament on his head. The knight wears a
+headdress of design similar to that of the horse and, with arm
+uplifted and sword drawn, appears about to attack a foe. This work is
+well done, and the pose of both man and horse shows spirit. It is said
+to have been made during the thirteenth century. Preserved to us from
+this same period is the tattered fragment of a coat worn by Edward,
+the Black Prince, and which now hangs over his tomb in Canterbury
+Cathedral. With it are the helmet and gauntlets he wore and the shield
+he carried. The coat is of a red and blue velvet, now sadly faded,
+applied to a calico background and closely quilted. It is too
+elaborate to have been made to wear under his armour, and was
+probably worn during state functions where armour was not required,
+although it was then customary to wear thickly padded and quilted
+coats and hoods in order to ease the weight of the heavy and
+unyielding coats of mail.
+
+Much of the best needlework in England at this early period was for
+the church. Neither labour nor expense was spared to make the
+magnificent decorations used in the old cathedrals. Aside from the
+linens, silks, and velvets used in this construction, much gold and
+silver bullion was wrought into the elaborate altar hangings, altar
+fronts, and ecclesiastical vestments. In their ornamentation applied
+work was freely used, especially on the large hangings draped over the
+altar.
+
+It was during the earliest period that the Latin name _opus consutum_
+was commonly used to designate patchwork. Chain stitch also was much
+used on early English embroidery; to such an extent that it is now of
+great service as an identification mark to fix the dates of medieval
+needlework. Chain stitch was dignified by the Latin name _opus
+anglicanum_. Only the most elaborate and richest of embroideries have
+been preserved; the reason being that much of the work was done with
+silver and gold threads which were in reality fine wires of these
+precious metals. Being exceedingly costly, they were given unusual
+care, many being kept with the royal plate and jewels. One specimen
+made in 905 by Aelfled, the queen of Edward, the Elder, is now
+treasured in Durham Cathedral. It is described as being "of almost
+solid gold thread, so exquisitely embroidered that it resembles a fine
+illuminated manuscript," and is indescribably beautiful. In many
+instances the fabrics of these old embroideries have partly fallen
+away, leaving only frail fragments of the original material held
+together by the lasting threads of gold and silver.
+
+The great amount of precious metals used in making the richest
+garments and hangings sometimes made them objects to be desired by
+avaricious invaders. In an inventory of the contents of Cardinal
+Wolsey's great palace at Hampton Court there are mentioned, among many
+other rare specimens of needlework of that period, "230 bed hangings
+of English embroidery." None of them is now in existence, and it is
+supposed that they were torn apart in order to fill the coffers of
+some vandal who preferred the metal in them to their beauty as
+hangings.
+
+Among the sumptuous furnishings belonging to the Tudor period, applied
+work held a prominent place. Vast spaces of cold palace walls were
+covered by great wall hangings, archways were screened, and every bed
+was enclosed with curtains made of stoutly woven material, usually
+more or less ornamented. This was before the advent of French
+tapestry, which later supplanted the English applique wall draperies.
+The Tudor period was also the time when great rivalry in dress
+existed. "The esquire endeavoured to outshine the knight, the
+knight the baron, the baron the earl, the earl the king himself, in
+the richness of his apparel."
+
+ [Illustration: FEATHER STAR
+
+ Made about 1850. Colours: blue and white]
+
+ [Illustration: DRUNKARD'S PATH
+
+ A modern quilt after an old pattern. Colours: light blue
+ and white]
+
+In direct contrast to the long inventories of beautiful and valuable
+clothing, bedcovers, and hangings of the rich, are the meagre details
+relating to the life and household effects of the landless English
+peasant. In all probability he copied as far as he was able some of
+the utilities and comforts used by his superiors. If he possessed a
+cover for his bed, it was doubtless made of the cheapest woven
+material obtainable. No doubt the pieced or patched quilt
+contributed materially to his comfort. In "Arts and Crafts in the
+Middle Ages," Julia de Wolf Addison describes a child's bed quilt
+included in an inventory of furniture at the Priory in Durham in 1446,
+"which was embroidered in the four corners with the Evangelistic
+symbols." In the "Squier of Lowe Degree," a fifteenth-century romance,
+there is allusion to a bed of which the head sheet is described as
+embroidered "with diamonds and rubies bright."
+
+It was during the gorgeous reign of Henry VIII that the finest
+specimens of combined embroidery and patchwork, now preserved in
+various museums, were made. It was really patch upon patch, for before
+the motives were applied to the foundation they were elaborately
+embroidered in intricate designs; and after being applied, they had
+their edges couched with gold and silver cord and ornate embroidery
+stitches. Mrs. Lowes relates in "Old Lace and Needlework" that, during
+the time of Henry VIII, embroidery, as distinct from garment making,
+appeared; and every article of wearing apparel became an object worthy
+of decoration. "Much fine stitching was put into the fine white
+undergarments of that time, and the overdresses of both men and women
+became stiff with gold thread and jewels. Much use was made of
+slashing and quilting, the point of junction being dotted with pearls
+and precious stones. Noble ladies wore dresses heavily and richly
+embroidered with gold, and the train was so weighty that train bearers
+were pressed into service. In the old paintings the horses belonging
+to kings and nobles wear trappings of heavily embroidered gold. Even
+the hounds, which are frequently represented with their masters, have
+collars massively decorated with gold bullion."
+
+Mary, Queen of Scots, was devoted to the needle and was expert in its
+use. It is said that while in France she learned lace making and
+embroidery. Many wall hangings, bed draperies, bedcovers, and house
+linens are the work of her skilful fingers, or were made under her
+personal direction. A number of examples of her work are now owned by
+the Duke of Devonshire. It is said also that many of the French
+costumes and laces of her wardrobe were appropriated by Queen
+Elizabeth, who had little sympathy for the unfortunate queen. As a
+solace during long days of loneliness, Queen Mary found consolation in
+her needle, as have many women of lower degree before and since her
+unhappy time. She stands forth as the most expert and indefatigable of
+royal needleworkers.
+
+ [Illustration: THE IRIS DESIGN
+
+ In this design the iris has been conventionalized so as
+ to make it consistent with its natural growth--the
+ flowers stretching up in a stately array beyond their
+ long-pointed leaves]
+
+Hardwick Hall is intimately associated with Queen Mary's life, and is
+rich in relics of her industry. In one room named for her there are
+bed curtains and a quilt said to be her own work. Extracts from old
+letters relating to her conduct during captivity show how devoted she
+was to her needlework. An attendant, on being asked how the queen
+passed her time, wrote, "that all day she wrought with her nydil and
+that the diversity of the colours made the work seem less tedious and
+that she contynued so long at it that veray payn made hir to give
+over." This shows that fatigue alone made her desist from her beloved
+work.
+
+There is a very interesting fragment of a bed hanging at Hardwick Hall
+said to have been made by Queen Mary. It is of applied patchwork, with
+cream-coloured medallions curiously ornamented by means of designs
+singed with a hot iron upon the light-coloured velvet. The singed
+birds, flowers, and butterflies are outlined with black silk thread.
+The worked medallions are applied to a foundation of green velvet,
+ornamented between and around them with yellow silk cord. This is
+only one of a number of examples of curious and beautiful patchwork
+still in existence and attributed to the Tudor period.
+
+Queen Elizabeth herself was not devoted to needlework, but judging
+from the accounts of the gorgeous costumes which she delighted to
+wear, she was one of its greatest patronesses. It is said that at her
+death she left one of the most extensive wardrobes of history: in it
+were more than a thousand dresses, which were most voluminous in style
+and elaborately trimmed with bullion, pearls, and jewels. Before the
+precious stones were applied, her garments were solidly covered with
+gold and silver quilting and embroidery, which made them so heavy as
+to be a noticeable burden even for this proud and ambitious queen. In
+Berkeley Castle, as prized mementoes of Queen Elizabeth, are five
+white linen cushions beautifully embroidered with silver threads and
+cherry-coloured silk. Also with them is the quilt, a wonderful piece
+of needlework, that matches the hangings of the bed wherein she slept.
+
+ [Illustration: STAR OF THE EAST
+
+ Elaborate pineapple quilting designs in the corners.
+ Colours: red and white]
+
+ [Illustration: WHITE QUILT WITH TUFTED BORDER
+
+ Now in Metropolitan Museum, New York]
+
+The magnificence of Queen Elizabeth's reign gave great impetus to all
+kinds of needlework. France at that time led in the development of
+fine arts, and furnished many of the skilled workmen employed by the
+nobility solely as embroiderers. There seemed to be no limit to the
+ambitions of these workers, and the gorgeous results of their labours
+were beyond anything attempted after them.
+
+To those who wish to study the work of the Tudor period, Hardwick Hall
+is recommended as the place where the best specimens have been
+preserved. To Elizabeth, daughter of John Hardwick, born in 1520, and
+so poor that her marriage portion as the bride of the Earl of
+Shrewsbury was only thirty pounds, credit is given for the richness of
+this collection. She was a woman of great ability in the management of
+her estates, became very wealthy, and gave employment to many people.
+Included among her dependents were many needleworkers who plied their
+trade under rigorous administration. Elizabeth of Shrewsbury was a
+hard mistress, but not above doing an occasional bit of needlework
+herself, for some pieces bearing her initials and done with remarkable
+skill are preserved in the collection. She, as much as any
+Englishwoman, fostered and developed applied patchwork along the
+ambitious line of pictorial needlework.
+
+In Hardwick Hall are several hangings of pictorial needlework that are
+very interesting. One of black velvet has a picture of a lady strongly
+resembling Queen Elizabeth. She carries a book in her hand and at her
+feet reclines a turbaned Turk. In the background is an ecclesiastical
+hanging which is embroidered to represent a cathedral window. The
+realistic effect of the whole picture is gained by the use of coloured
+silks cut in correct proportions and applied to the velvet foundation;
+very little embroidery entering into the main composition. Another
+hanging, also of black velvet, has an even more ambitious design. It
+is described by M. Jourdain in "The History of English Secular
+Embroidery" as follows: "The ornamentation on the black velvet is with
+applique in coloured silks consisting of figures under arches. In the
+centre is 'Lucrecia,' on the left 'Chastite,' and on the right
+'Liberalitas.' The oval panel on the right contains a shield bearing
+the arms of Hardwick." At each end of the hanging are fluted Ionic
+columns, and a decorated frieze is carried across the top. The figures
+have grace and beauty; the drapery of their robes falls in natural
+folds; and altogether it is a remarkable picture to have been made
+with patches.
+
+That this fine collection of medieval needlework is preserved for the
+admiration of people to-day is due to the faithful execution of the
+Countess of Shrewsbury's will, in which she left all her household
+furnishings, entailed as heirlooms, to always remain in her House of
+Hardwick.
+
+In the interesting Hardwick collection are pieces of beautiful
+needlework known to have been used by Mary, Queen of Scots, during the
+years she spent as a prisoner at Tutbury. Her rooms there, furnished
+in regal splendour, are still kept just as she arranged them. The Earl
+of Shrewsbury was her custodian, and his wife, the countess, often sat
+and sewed with the unfortunate queen, both making pastime of their
+needlework.
+
+During the Middle Ages applique was in universal use, and not confined
+merely to wall hangings, quilts, and bed draperies. It was used to
+ornament all kinds of wearing apparel, including caps, gloves, and
+shoes. Special designs were made for upholstery, but because of the
+hard wear imposed upon stools and chairs but few specimens of this
+work have been preserved.
+
+Quilting also came into vogue in the making of bedspreads, of which
+great numbers were required during the winter nights in the poorly
+heated bedrooms. The quilts intended for service were made of
+substantial, well-wearing material. None of these strictly utilitarian
+quilts is left, but they were certainly plentiful. The old chroniclers
+give us a glimpse of what the women of these days cherished by telling
+us that in 1540 Katherine Howard, afterward wife of Henry VIII, was
+presented with twenty-three quilts of Sarsenet, closely quilted, from
+the Royal Wardrobe.
+
+Tradition says that, during the reign of Henry VIII, the much used and
+popular "black work" or "Spanish work" was introduced into England by
+his Spanish wife, Catherine of Aragon. It has been found that this
+work did not originate in Spain but was taken there probably by the
+Moors or by the Crusaders, for it is known to have been perfected at a
+very remote period in both Persia and China. The following interesting
+description of black work is from Mrs. Lowes' "Chats on Old Lace and
+Needlework":
+
+ [Illustration: SUNBURST AND WHEEL OF FORTUNE
+
+ Comparatively modern quilts. Colours: blue and white]
+
+ [Illustration: TREE OF PARADISE
+
+ Made in Indiana over 75 years ago. Colours: red and
+ green]
+
+"The work itself was a marvel of neatness, precision, and elegant
+design, but the result cannot be said to have been commensurate with
+the labour of its production. More frequently the design was of
+scrollwork, worked with a fine black silk back stitching or chain
+stitch. Round and round the stitches go, following each other closely.
+Bunches of grapes are frequently worked solidly, and even the popular
+peascod is worked in outline stitch, and often the petit point period
+lace stitches are copied, and roses and birds worked separately and
+afterward stitched to the design." There are many examples of this
+famous "Spanish work" in the South Kensington Museum in London.
+Quilts, hangings, coats, caps, jackets, smocks, are all to be seen,
+some with a couched thread of gold and silver following the lines of
+the scrolls. This is said to be the Spanish stitch referred to in the
+old list of stitches, and very likely may be so, as the style and
+manner are certainly not English; and we know that Catherine of Aragon
+brought wonders of Spanish stitchery with her, and she herself was
+devoted to the use of the needle. The story of how, when called before
+Cardinal Wolsey and Campeggio, to answer to King Henry's accusations,
+she had a skein of embroidery silk round her neck, is well known.
+
+"The black silk outline stitchery on linen lasted well through the
+late seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Very little of it is seen
+outside the museums, as, not being strikingly beautiful or attractive,
+it has been destroyed. Another phase of the same stitchery was working
+cotton and linen garments, hangings and quilts in a kind of quilted
+pattern with yellow silk. The finest materials were used, the padding
+being placed bit by bit into its place. The quilting work was made in
+tiny panels, illustrating shields and other heraldic devices, and had
+a surface as fine as carved ivory. When, as in the case of one sample
+at South Kensington, the quilt is additionally embroidered with fine
+floss silk flowers, the effect is very lovely."
+
+One interesting feature of "black work" and similar flat embroideries
+was their constant use in decorating furnishings for the bedroom. It
+was peculiarly well adapted for quilts, as its rather smooth surface
+admirably resisted wear.
+
+ [Illustration: OLD BED WITH QUILT AND CANOPY AND TRUNDLE
+ BED BENEATH
+
+ Now in Memorial Hall, Deerfield, Mass.]
+
+ [Illustration: TWO WHITE TUFTED BEDSPREADS
+
+ Both made in Pennsylvania about 100 years ago]
+
+Fashions in needlework changed, but not with the same rapidity as in
+clothing. Gradually ideas and customs from other countries crept
+into England and new influences were felt. An established trade
+with the Orient brought Eastern products to her markets, and oriental
+designs in needlework became popular. About this time "crewel" was
+much in vogue. This was embroidery done with coloured woollen threads
+and was a step backward in the art. Some of this "crewel" work, done
+in the seventeenth century, is described by M. Jourdain in "English
+Secular Embroidery": "These hangings, bed curtains, quilts, and
+valances are of linen or a mixture of cotton and linen, and one type
+is embroidered with bold, freely designed patterns in worsted. They
+are worked almost always in dull blues and greens mixed with more
+vivid greens and some browns, but rarely any other colouring."
+
+A very curious custom of these days was the use of "mourning beds,"
+with black hangings, coverlets, and even sheets. As these funereal
+articles of furniture were quite expensive, it was a friendly custom
+to lend these mourning beds to families in time of affliction. In 1644
+Mrs. Eure wrote to Sir Ralph Verney: "Sweet Nephew, I am now overrun
+with miserys and troubles, but the greatest misfortune that could
+happen to me was the death of the gallantest man (her husband) that I
+ever knew." Whereupon Sir Ralph, full of sympathy, "offers her the
+loan of the great black bed and hangings from Claydon."
+
+Interesting indeed are descriptions of wonderful old quilts that are
+now guarded with zealous care in English museums. One, an original and
+striking design, is closely quilted all over in small diamonds. Upon
+it is embroidered an orange tree in full leaf and loaded with fruit.
+This tree, together with the fancy pot in which it is planted, covers
+practically the entire quilt. In the lower corners a gentleman is
+shown picking oranges and a lady in a patient attitude is waiting to
+receive them, the figures of both being scarcely taller than the
+flower pot. The whole design is made up of gayly coloured silks
+evidently worked in after the quilting was done. Mention is also made
+of an elaborate quilt said to be the work of Queen Anne, which is
+preserved at Madresfield Court. Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough, in
+giving an order for house furnishings for her "wild, unmerciful house"
+about 1720, asks for "a vast number of feather beds, some filled with
+swansdown, and a vast number of quilts."
+
+Mrs. Delany, who lived from 1700 to 1788, and left a large
+correspondence relating to needlework, which was later edited by Lady
+Llanover, was a most prolific worker with her needle as well as a
+profuse letter writer. She was often quoted as an authority and given
+credit for much originality in her designs. A quilt that she made is
+described as follows: "Of white linen worked in flowers, the size of
+nature, delineated with the finest coloured silks in running stitch,
+which is made use of in the same way as by a pen etching on paper; the
+outline was drawn with pencil. Each flower is different, and evidently
+done at the moment from the original." Another quilt of Mrs. Delany's
+was made upon a foundation of nankeen. This was unique in that no
+colours were used besides the dull yellow of the background. Applied
+designs of leaves tied together with ribbons, all cut from white linen
+and stitched to the nankeen with white thread, made a quilt no wise
+resembling the silken ones of earlier periods. This quilt may be
+termed a forerunner of the vast array of pieced and patched washable
+quilts belonging to the nineteenth century.
+
+The embroidering of quilts followed the process of quilting, which
+afforded the firm foundation essential for heavy and elaborate
+designs. There were many quilts made of white linen quilted with
+yellow silk thread, and afterward embroidered very tastefully with
+yellow silk floss. Terry, in the history of his "Voyage to the East
+Indies," made about the middle of the seventeenth century, says: "The
+natives show very much ingenuity in their manufactures, also in making
+excellent quilts of their stained cloth, or of fresh-coloured taffeta
+lined with their prints, or of their satin with taffeta, betwixt which
+they put cotton wool, and work them together with silk."
+
+Among many articles in a list of Eastern products, which Charles I, in
+1631, permitted to be brought to England, were "quilts of China
+embroidered in Gold." There is a possibility that these quilts were
+appreciated quite as much for the precious metal used in the
+embroidery as for the beauty of design and workmanship. It was but a
+short time after this that women began to realize how much gold and
+silver had gone into all forms of needlework. They looked upon rare
+and beautiful embroidery with greedy eyes, and a deplorable fashion
+sprang up, known in France as "parfilage" and in England as
+"drizzling." This was nothing more or less than ripping up, stitch
+by stitch, the magnificent old hangings, quilts, and even church
+vestments, to secure gold and silver thread. Lady Mary Coke, writing
+from the Austrian Court, says: "All the ladies who do not play cards
+pick gold. It is the most general fashion I ever saw, and they all
+carry their bags containing the necessary tools in their pockets. They
+even begged sword knots, epaulettes, and galons that they might add
+more of the precious threads to the spool on which they wound the
+ravelled bullion, which they sold." To the appreciative collector this
+seems wanton sacrilege.
+
+ [Illustration: TUFTED BEDSPREAD WITH KNOTTED FRINGE
+
+ A design of very remarkable beauty. Over 100 years old]
+
+ [Illustration: UNKNOWN STAR
+
+ A New England quilt about 115 years old. Colours: once
+ bright red and green are now old rose and dull green.
+ The original quilting designs are very beautiful]
+
+John Locke, 1632-1704, a very famous man of Charles II's time, and one
+of the greatest philosophers and ardent champions of civil and
+religious rights which England ever produced, mentioned quilts in his
+"Thoughts Concerning Education." In telling of the correct sort of
+beds for children he writes as follows: "Let his Bed be hard, and
+rather Quilts than Feathers. Hard Lodging strengthens the Parts,
+whereas being buryed every Night in Feathers melts and dissolves the
+Body.... Besides, he that is used to hard Lodging at Home will not
+miss his Sleep (where he has most Need of it) in his travels Abroad
+for want of his soft Bed, and his Pillows laid in Order."
+
+Pepys, a contemporary of Locke, in his incomparable and delicious
+Diary, remarks: "Home to my poor wife, who works all day like a horse,
+at the making of her hanging for our chamber and bed," thus telling us
+that he was following the fashion of the day in having wall, window,
+and bed draperies alike. It is plain, too, by his frequent "and so to
+bed," that his place of sleep and rest was one of comfort in his
+house.
+
+A quilt depending solely upon the stitching used in quilting, whether
+it be of the simple running stitch, the back stitch, or the chain
+stitch, is not particularly ornamental. However, when viewed at close
+range, the effect is a shadowy design in low relief that has a
+distinctive but modest beauty when well done. Early in the eighteenth
+century a liking for this fashion prevailed, and was put to a variety
+of uses. Frequently there was no interlining between the right and
+wrong sides. At Canons Ashby there are now preserved some handsome
+quilted curtains of this type, belonging to Sir Alfred Dryden,
+Baronet.
+
+ [Illustration: COMBINATION ROSE
+
+ More than 85 years old. Colours: rose, pink, and green]
+
+ [Illustration: DOUBLE TULIP
+
+ Made in Ohio, date unknown. The tulips are made of red
+ calico covered with small yellow flowers. The roses have
+ yellow centres]
+
+During the Middle Ages instruction in the use of the needle was
+considered a necessary part of the English girl's education. By the
+seventeenth century "working fine works with the needle" was
+considered of equal importance with singing, dancing, and French in
+the accomplishments of a lady of quality. In the eighteenth century
+much the same sentiment prevailed, and Lady Montagu is quoted as
+saying: "It is as scandalous for a woman not to know how to use a
+needle as for a man not to know how to use a sword."
+
+The _Spectator_ of that time sarcastically tells of two sisters highly
+educated in domestic arts who spend so much time making cushions and
+"sets of hangings" that they had never learned to read and write! A
+sober-minded old lady, grieved by frivolous nieces, begs the
+_Spectator_ "to take the laudable mystery of embroidery into your
+serious consideration," for, says she, "I have two nieces, who so
+often run gadding abroad that I do not know when to have them. Those
+hours which, in this age, are thrown away in dress, visits, and the
+like, were employed in my time in writing out receipts, or working
+beds, chairs, and hangings for the family. For my part I have plied
+the needle these fifty years, and by my good-will would never have it
+out of my hand. It grieves my heart to see a couple of proud, idle
+flirts sipping the tea for a whole afternoon in a room hung round with
+the industry of their great-grandmothers." Another old lady of the
+eighteenth century, Miss Hutton, proudly makes the following statement
+of the results of years of close application to the needle: "I have
+quilted counterpanes and chest covers in fine white linen, in various
+patterns of my own invention. I have made patchwork beyond
+calculation."
+
+Emblems and motifs were great favourites with the quilt workers of "ye
+olden times" and together with mottoes were worked into many pieces of
+embroidery. The following mottoes were copied from an old quilt made
+in the seventeenth century: "Covet not to wax riche through deceit,"
+"He that has lest witte is most poore," "It is better to want riches
+than witte," "A covetous man cannot be riche."
+
+ [Illustration: MORNING GLORIES
+
+ In one of their many beautiful and delicate varieties
+ were chosen for this quilt, and while the design is
+ conventional to a certain extent it shows the natural
+ grace of the growing vine]
+
+The needle and its products have always been held in great esteem in
+England, and many of the old writers refer to needlework with much
+respect. In 1640 John Taylor, sometimes called the "Water Poet,"
+published a collection of essays, etc., called "The Needle's
+Excellency," which was very popular in its day and ran through twelve
+editions. In it is a long poem entitled, "The Prayse of the Needle."
+The following are the opening lines:
+
+ "To all dispersed sorts of Arts and Trades
+ I write the needles prayse (that never fades)
+ So long as children shall begot and borne,
+ So long as garments shall be made and worne.
+ So long as Hemp or Flax or Sheep shall bear
+ Their linnen Woollen fleeces yeare by yeare;
+ So long as silk-worms, with exhausted spoile,
+ Of their own entrailes for man's game shall toyle;
+ Yea, till the world be quite dissolved and past,
+ So long at least, the Needles use shall last."
+
+It is interesting to read what Elizabeth Glaister, an Englishwoman,
+writes of quilts in England:
+
+"Perhaps no piece of secular needlework gave our ancestors more
+satisfaction, both in the making and when made, as the quilt or bed
+coverlet. We have seen a good many specimens of them, both of the real
+quilted counterpanes, in which several thicknesses of material were
+stitched together into a solid covering, and the lighter silken or
+linen coverlets ornamented with all sorts of embroidery. Cradle quilts
+also were favourite pieces of needlework and figure in inventories of
+Henry VIII's time.
+
+"The real quilts were very handsome and the amount of labour bestowed
+on them was enormous. The seventeenth century was a great time for
+them, and the work of this period is generally very good. The quilting
+of some of them is made by sewing several strands of thick cotton
+between the fine linen of the surface and the lining. When one line
+was completed the cotton was laid down again next to it, and another
+line formed.
+
+"A sort of shell pattern was a favourite for quilting. When a
+sufficient space was covered with the ground pattern, flowers or other
+ornaments were embroidered on this excellent foundation. Perhaps the
+best results as a work of art were attained when both quilting and
+flowers were done in bright yellow silk; the effect of this colour on
+a white ground being always particularly good. A handsome quilt may be
+worked with a darned background. It is done most easily on huckaback
+towelling of rather loose weave, running the needle under the raised
+threads for the ground.
+
+ [Illustration: PRINCESS FEATHERS
+
+ Made in Indiana about 1835. Colours: soft dull green and
+ old rose]
+
+ [Illustration: PRINCESS FEATHERS WITH BORDER
+
+ Notice the maple leaf inserted in the border. Colours:
+ red and green]
+
+"A very effective quilt in quite a different style is made in applied
+work on unbleached cotton sheeting. A pattern of yellow fruit or
+flower with leaves is cut out in coloured serges sewn on with
+crewels in buttonhole stitch; stems, veins, and buds being also
+worked in crewels, and the ground slightly darned in dim yellow
+crewel. It is elaborate, but a very pleasant and repaying piece of
+work.
+
+"Many beautiful old quilts are made of silk and satin embroidered in
+pure silks or in gold and silver twist. Most of the best specimens are
+from France and Italy, where from the arrangement of the houses the
+beds have continued to be more _en evidence_ than has been the case in
+England for the last two centuries. Many also are of Indian origin;
+the ground of these is sometimes of fine soft silk and sometimes of
+thick muslin, over which the pattern is worked in silk. Others, though
+of Indian workmanship, show a European influence, of which the most
+curious are those worked at Goa, under Portuguese dominion in the
+seventeenth century."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+THE QUILT IN AMERICA
+
+
+The date of the quilt's advent into America is unknown, and--because
+of the lack of knowledge concerning the house furnishings of the early
+colonists--can never be positively determined. Quilts were in such
+general use and were considered as such ordinary articles that the
+early writers about family life in the colonies neglected to mention
+them. We do know, however, that quilted garments, bedspreads,
+curtains, and the like were very essential to the comfort and
+well-being of the original settlers along the Atlantic seaboard.
+
+ [Illustration: PEONIES
+
+ About 75 years old. Made for exhibition at state fairs
+ in the Middle West. Colours: red, green, and yellow]
+
+ [Illustration: NORTH CAROLINA LILY
+
+ Over 80 years old. Flowers: red and green; the border
+ has green buds with red centres. The quilting designs
+ are remarkable for their beauty and originality]
+
+Extensive investigation has shown that the introduction of the arts of
+patchwork and quilting to the American continent is due entirely to
+the English and the Dutch. No evidence has been found that Spanish or
+French colonists made use of quilting. The Spaniards in the warm lands
+of the South had little real need of warm clothing, and--outside of
+possible applique heraldic devices on the coats of the early
+explorers--may be considered as having brought to the New World none
+of the art so popular in Spain at the time. The French who opened up
+Canada brought none of the quilting or patchwork of France with them.
+While needlework was taught at a very early date in the convents of
+Quebec, it was apparently only the more fanciful kinds of embroidery.
+As a protection against the biting northern winters, the early French
+settlers sought protection under furs, which could be obtained quite
+readily in the great woods. To secure more bed clothing, it was very
+much easier to engage in a little hunting than to go through the
+laborious processes of piecing and quilting. To both Spanish and
+French, the new world was strictly a man's country--to adventure in
+and win riches upon which to retire to a life of ease in their native
+lands. With them, therefore, the inspiration of founding a home and
+providing it with the comforts of life was lacking; and without such
+inspiration the household arts could never flourish.
+
+The English and Dutch planted their colonies along the coast from
+Virginia to Massachusetts with the primary object of founding new
+homes for themselves. With them came their wives and daughters, who
+brought along as their portion such household comforts and
+conveniences as they possessed. Under their willing hands spinning,
+weaving, and the manufacture of garments began immediately. Their
+poorly heated log houses made necessary an adequate supply of bedding
+and hangings for protection against the winter cold. Substantial,
+heavy curtains, frequently lined and quilted, were hung over both
+doors and windows and were kept closely drawn during the bitter winter
+nights. In the more imposing homes were silk damask curtains with
+linings of quilted silk to keep out the drafts of cold that swept
+through the rooms.
+
+In Massachusetts in the early colonial days quilted garments,
+especially petticoats, were in general use. It is a curious
+circumstance that we owe this bit of information largely to the
+description of runaway slaves. The Boston _News Letter_ of October,
+1707, contains an advertisement describing an Indian woman who ran
+away, clad in the best garments she could purloin from her mistress's
+wardrobe: "A tall Lusty Carolina Indian Woman, named Keziah Wampun
+Had on a striped red, blue and white Home-spun Jacket and a Red one, a
+Black and quilted White Silk Crape Petticoat, a White Shift and also a
+blue with her, and a mixt Blue and White Linsey Woolsey Apron." In
+1728 the _News Letter_ published an advertisement of a runaway Indian
+servant who, wearied by the round of domestic drudgery, adorned
+herself in borrowed finery and fled: "She wore off a Narrow Stript
+pinck cherredary Gown turned up with a little floured red and white
+Callico. A Stript Home-spun quilted petticoat, a plain muslin Apron, a
+suit of plain Pinners and a red and white flowered knot, also a pair
+of green stone earrings, with white cotton stockings and leather
+heel'd wooden shoes."
+
+A few items in a list of articles ordered from England for a New
+England bride, Miss Judith Sewall, who was married in 1720, give some
+idea of what was considered as a suitable wedding outfit during that
+period. The bride belonged to a rich family and no doubt had
+furnishings much more extensive than usual: "A Duzen of good Black
+Walnut Chairs, A Duzen Cane Chairs, and a great chair for a chamber,
+all black Walnut. One Duzen large Pewter Plates, new fashion, a Duzen
+Ivory-hafted knives and forks. Four Duzen small glass salt cellars,
+Curtains and Vallens for a Bed with Counterpane, Head Cloth, and
+Tester made of good yellow watered camlet with Trimming. Send also of
+the same camlet and trimming as may be enough to make cushions for the
+chamber chairs. A good fine larger Chintz quilt, well made." This list
+also includes such items as kitchen utensils, warming pans, brass
+fenders, tongs, and shovels, and "four pairs of large Brass
+candlesticks."
+
+As the resources of the new country were developed, the women were
+given some respite from their spinning, weaving, and garment making.
+Much of their hard-won leisure was spent piecing quilts. In the
+rigorous climate of bleak New England there was great need of warm
+clothing and bedding, and the spare moments of the housekeeper were
+largely occupied in increasing her supply. To make the great amount of
+bedding necessary in the unheated sleeping rooms, every scrap and
+remnant of woollen material left from the manufacture of garments was
+saved. To supplement these, the best parts of worn-out garments were
+carefully cut out, and made into quilt pieces.
+
+ [Illustration: FEATHER STAR WITH APPLIQUE
+
+ The "Feather Star" pieced blocks alternate with blue and
+ white blocks on which are applied scroll designs. This
+ quilt, which is the only one of this pattern, was made
+ about 1835. It was designed by a Mr. Hamill for his
+ sweetheart, Mary Hayward]
+
+ [Illustration: TULIP TREE LEAVES
+
+ A modern quilt made by the mountaineers of South
+ Carolina. Colours: light blue and pink]
+
+Beautiful, even gorgeous, materials were imported for costumes of the
+wives and daughters of the wealthy colonists. There may be a greater
+variety of fabrics woven to-day, but none is more splendid in texture
+and colour than those worn by the stately ladies of colonial times.
+The teachings of the strict Puritans advocated plainness and
+simplicity of dress; even the ministers in the churches preached
+against the "sinfulness of display of fine raiment." Notwithstanding
+the teachings and pleadings of the clergy, there was great rivalry in
+dress among the inhabitants of the larger colonial towns. "Costly thy
+habit as thy purse can buy," was unnecessary advice to give to the
+rich colonist or to his wife. Men's attire was also of costly velvets
+lined with handsome brocades; beautifully embroidered waistcoats, silk
+stockings, and gold lace trimmings were further additions to their
+costumes during the pre-Revolutionary period.
+
+After these gay and costly fabrics had served their time as wearing
+apparel, they were carefully preserved and made over into useful
+articles for the household. The pinch of hard times during the
+struggle for independence made it imperative for many well-to-do
+families to economize. Consequently, in many old patchwork quilts may
+be found bits of the finest silks, satins, velvets, and brocades,
+relics of more prosperous days.
+
+Alice Morse Earle, in her charming book on "Home Life in Colonial
+Days," gives us a rare insight into our great-grandmothers' fondness
+for patchwork, and how highly they prized their bits of highly
+coloured fabrics:
+
+"The feminine love of colour, the longing for decoration, as well as
+pride in skill of needlecraft, found riotous expression in quilt
+making. Women revelled in intricate and difficult patchwork; they
+eagerly exchanged patterns with one another; they talked over the
+designs, and admired pretty bits of calico and pondered what
+combinations to make, with far more zest than women ever discuss art
+or examine high art specimens together to-day. There was one
+satisfactory condition in the work, and that was the quality of
+cottons and linens of which the patchwork was made. Real India
+chintzes and palampores are found in these quilts, beautiful and
+artistic stuffs, and the firm, unyielding, high-priced, 'real' French
+calicoes.
+
+ [Illustration: MEXICAN ROSE
+
+ Made in 1842. Colours: red and green. Note the exquisite
+ quilting]
+
+ [Illustration: CURRANTS AND COCKSCOMB
+
+ Small red berries combined with conventionalized leaves.
+ This quilt has captured first prizes at many state
+ fairs]
+
+"Portions of discarded uniforms, old coat and cloak linings,
+brilliantly dyed worn flannel shirts and well-worn petticoats were
+component parts of quilts that were needed for warmth. A magnificent
+scarlet cloak, worn by a Lord Mayor of London and brought to America
+by a member of the Merrit family of Salisbury, Massachusetts, went
+through a series of adventures and migrations and ended its days as
+small bits of vivid colour, casting a grateful glory and variety on a
+patchwork quilt in the Saco Valley of Maine.
+
+"Around the outstretched quilt a dozen quilters could sit, running the
+whole together with fanciful set designs of stitchery. Sometimes
+several quilts were set up, and I know of a ten days' quilting bee in
+Narragansett in 1752."
+
+The women who came from Holland to make their homes on the narrow
+island at the mouth of the Hudson were housekeepers of traditional
+Dutch excellence. They delighted in well-stocked linen closets and
+possessed unusual quantities of sheets, pillow cases, and bedding,
+mostly of their own spinning and weaving. Like their English
+neighbours to the north, in Connecticut and Massachusetts, they
+adopted quilted hangings and garments for protection against the
+severity of winter. Their quilted petticoats were the pride and joy
+of these transplanted Hollanders, and in their construction they
+exerted their highest talents in design and needlework. These
+petticoats, which were worn short enough to display the home-knitted
+hose, were thickly interlined as well as quilted. They were very warm,
+as the interlining was usually of wool. The fuller the purse, the
+richer and gayer were the petticoats of the New Amsterdam dames.
+
+While not so strict in religious matters as their Puritan neighbours,
+the early inhabitants of New Amsterdam always observed Sunday and
+attended church regularly. Within the fort at the battery stood the
+church, built of "Manhattan Stone" in 1642. Its two peaked roofs with
+the watch-tower between was the most prominent object of the fortress.
+"On Sunday mornings the two main streets, Broadway and Whitehall, were
+filled with dignified and sedate churchgoers arrayed in their best
+clothes. The tucked-up panniers worn by the women displayed to the
+best advantage the quilted petticoats. Red, blue, black, and white
+were the favourite and predominating colours, and the different
+materials included fine woollen cloth, camlet, grosgrain silk, and
+satin. Of all the articles of feminine attire of that period the
+quilted petticoat was the most important. They were worn short,
+displaying the low shoes with high heels and coloured hose with
+scarlet clockings; silken hoods partially covered their curled and
+powdered hair; altogether a charming and delightful picture."
+
+The low, flat land of South Manhattan lying along the Hudson, because
+of its similarity to their mother country, was a favourite
+dwelling-place in New Netherlands. This region, known as Flatbush, was
+quickly covered with Dutch homes and big, orderly, flourishing
+gardens. A descendant of one of the oldest Dutch families which
+settled in this locality, Mrs. Gertrude Lefferts Vanderbilt, in her
+book, "The Social History of Flatbush," has given many interesting
+details of early New York life. She tells of the place quilt making
+held in the community, and how the many intricate patterns of
+patchwork pleasantly occupied the spare moments of the women, thus
+serving as a means of expression of their love of colour and design.
+The following little domestic picture shows how conveniently near the
+thrifty housewife kept her quilt blocks: "A low chair with a seat of
+twisted osier, on which was tied a loose feather-filled cushion,
+covered with some gay material. On the back of these chairs hung the
+bag of knitting, with the little red stocking and shining needles
+plainly visible, indicating that this was the favourite seat of the
+industrious mother of the family; or a basket of patchwork held its
+place upon a low stool (bankje) beside the chair, also to be snatched
+up at odd intervals (ledige tyd)."
+
+One reliable source of information of the comforts and luxuries that
+contributed to pleasant dwelling in old New York is found in old
+inventories of household effects. Occasionally complete lists are
+found that throw much light on the furnishings of early days. Such an
+inventory of the household belongings of Captain John Kidd, before he
+went to sea and turned pirate, mentions over sixty different kinds of
+house furnishings, from a skillet to a dozen chairs embellished with
+Turkish embroidery. Among the articles with which John Kidd and his
+wife Sarah began housekeeping in New York in 1692, as recorded in this
+inventory, were four bedsteads, with three suits of hangings,
+curtains, and valances to go with them. Feather beds, feather pillows,
+linen sheets, tablecloths, and napkins, ten blankets, and three
+quilts. How much of this store of household linens was part of his
+wife's wedding dower is not stated.
+
+ [Illustration: CONVENTIONAL APPLIQUE
+
+ The designs are buttonholed around. Colours: soft green
+ and rose. This quilt is over 100 years old]
+
+ [Illustration: SINGLE TULIP
+
+ Colours: red and yellow. Seventy-five years old]
+
+The early settlers in Virginia and the Carolinas were mostly English
+of the better class, who had been landed proprietors with considerable
+retinues of servants. As soon as these original colonists secured a
+firm foothold, large estates were developed on which the manners and
+customs of old England were followed as closely as possible. Each
+plantation became a self-supporting community, since nearly all the
+actual necessities were produced or manufactured thereon. The loom
+worked ceaselessly, turning the wool, cotton, and flax into household
+commodities, and even the shoes for both slave and master were made
+from home-tanned leather. For their luxuries, the ships that carried
+tobacco and rice to the English markets returned laden with books,
+wines, laces, silverware, and beautiful house furnishings of every
+description.
+
+In the colonial plantation days of household industry quilts, both
+patchwork and plain, were made in considerable numbers. Quilts were
+then in such general use as to be considered too commonplace to be
+described or even mentioned. Consequently, we are forced to depend for
+evidence of their existence in those days on bills of sale and
+inventories of auctions. These records, however, constitute an
+authority which cannot be questioned.
+
+In 1774 Belvoir, the home of the Fairfax family, one of the largest
+and most imposing of houses of Virginia, was sold and its contents
+were put up at auction. A partial list of articles bought at this sale
+by George Washington, then Colonel Washington, and here given, will
+show the luxury to which the Southern planter was accustomed: "A
+mahogany shaving desk, settee bed and furnishings, four mahogany
+chairs, oval glass with gilt frame, mahogany sideboard, twelve chairs,
+and three window curtains from dining-room. Several pairs of andirons,
+tongs, shovels, toasting forks, pickle pots, wine glasses, pewter
+plates, many blankets, pillows, bolsters, and _nineteen coverlids_."
+
+ [Illustration: DAISY QUILT
+
+ For a child's bed]
+
+It was customary in the good old days after a dinner or ball for the
+guests, who necessarily came from long distances, to stay all night,
+and many bedrooms, frequently from ten to twenty-five, besides those
+needed for the family, were provided in the big houses. All were
+beautifully furnished with imported, massive, carved furniture from
+France and England. In one year, 1768, in Charlestown, South Carolina,
+occurred twelve weddings among the wealthy residents of that city, and
+all the furniture for these rich couples came from England. The twelve
+massive beds with canopies supported by heavily carved posts,
+decorated with rice stalks and full heads of grain, were so high that
+steps were needed in order to climb into them. Elaborate and expensive
+curtains and spreads were furnished to correspond. In one early
+inventory of an extensively furnished house there are mentioned "four
+feather beds, bolsters, two stools, looking-glass tipt with silver,
+two Turkey carpets, one yellow mohair bed counterpane, and _two green
+silk quilts_." From this it is evident that the quilt had already
+found its place, and no doubt in great numbers, on account of the many
+beds to furnish in the spacious house of the rich planters.
+
+Shortly after the Revolution came the great migration from Virginia
+over the ridges of the Blue and the Appalachian chains into what was
+then the wilderness of Tennessee and Kentucky. The descendants of
+these hardy pioneers who first forced their way westward still live
+among the Kentucky and Virginia hills under the conditions which
+prevailed a hundred years ago. In this heavily timbered rough country
+they manage to eke out a precarious existence by cultivating small
+hillside patches of cotton, corn, and a few vegetables. Immured in the
+seclusion of the mountains they have remained untouched by the world's
+progress during the past century. Year after year they are satisfied
+to live this secluded existence, and but rarely make an acquaintance
+with a stranger. Educational advantages, except of the most elementary
+sort, are almost unknown, and the majority of these mountaineers
+neither read nor write. As a result of this condition of isolated and
+primitive living, existing in the mountains of Virginia, Kentucky,
+Tennessee, and the Carolinas, the household crafts that flourished in
+this country before the advent of machinery are still carried on
+exactly as in the old days.
+
+ [Illustration: OHIO ROSE
+
+ This "Rose" quilt was made in Ohio about 80 years ago.
+ Colours: red, pink, and two shades of green]
+
+ [Illustration: ROSE OF SHARON
+
+ Made in Indiana about 65 years ago. It has a wool
+ interlining instead of the usual cotton]
+
+The simple needs of the family are almost entirely supplied by the
+women of the household. They spin, weave, and make the few plain
+garments which they and their families wear. Day after day, year in
+and year out, these isolated women must fill in the hours with little
+tasks connected with home life. As in many other instances where
+women are dependent upon their own resources for amusement, they have
+recourse to their needles. Consequently, it is in the making of
+quilts, coverlets, and allied forms of needlework that these mountain
+women spend their hours of recreation.
+
+The quilts, both pieced and patched, that are made in mountaineers'
+cabins have a great variety of designs. Many designs have been used
+again and again by each succeeding generation of quilters without any
+variation whatever, and have well-known names. There are also designs
+that have been originated by a proficient quilt maker, who has made
+use of some common flower as the basis for her conventional design. It
+has not been a great many years since the materials used in making the
+mountain quilts were dyed as well as woven in the home. The dyes were
+homemade from common roots and shrubs gathered from nearby woods and
+meadows. Blue was obtained from wild indigo; brown from walnut hulls;
+black from the bark of scrub-oak; and yellow from laurel leaves.
+However, the materials which must be purchased for a quilt are so
+meagre, and the colours called "oil boiled"--now used to dye
+calico--are so fast, that the mountain women seldom dye their own
+fabrics any more. They bring in a few chickens or eggs to the nearest
+village, and in exchange obtain a few yards of precious coloured
+calico for their quilts.
+
+Miss Bessie Daingerfield, a Kentuckian, who is in close touch with
+these mountaineers, tells us what a void the quilt fills in the lives
+of the lonely women of the hills: "While contemporary women out in the
+world are waging feminist war, those in the mountains of the long
+Appalachian chain still sit at their quilting frames and create beauty
+and work wonders with patient needles. There is much beautiful and
+skilful handiwork hidden away in these hills. The old women still
+weave coverlets, towels, and table linen from wool from their own
+sheep and from flax grown in their own gardens. The girls adorn their
+cotton gowns with 'compass work,' exact, exquisite. In some places the
+men and boys, girls and women, make baskets of hickory reeds and
+willows to delight the heart of the collector. But from the cradle to
+the grave, the women make quilts. The tiny girl shows you with pride
+the completed four patch or nine patch, square piled on square, which
+'mammy aims to set up for her ag'inst spring.' The mother tells you
+half jesting, half in earnest, 'the young un will have several ag'inst
+she has a home of her own.' No bride of the old country has more pride
+in her dower chest than the mountain bride in her pile of quilts. The
+old woman will show you a stack of quilts from floor to ceiling of her
+cabin. One dear old soul told me she had eighty-four, all different,
+and 'ever' stitch, piecin', settin' up, quiltin', my own work and
+ne'er another finger tetched hit.'"
+
+Patchwork was an important factor in making plain the knotty problems
+of existence, as Eliza Calvert Hall clearly shows when she makes "Aunt
+Jane of Kentucky" say: "How much piecin' a quilt is like livin' a
+life! Many a time I've set and listened to Parson Page preachin' about
+predestination and free will, and I've said to myself, 'If I could
+jest git up in the pulpit with one of my quilts I could make it a heap
+plainer to folks than parson's makin' it with his big words.' You see,
+you start out with jest so much caliker; you don't go to the store and
+pick it out and buy it, but the neighbours will give you a piece here
+and a piece there, and you'll have a piece left over every time you
+cut a dress, and you take jest what happens to come. And that's like
+predestination. But when it comes to the cuttin' out, why, you're
+free to choose your own pattern. You can give the same kind o' pieces
+to two persons, and one'll make a 'nine patch' and one'll make a
+'wild-goose chase,' and there'll be two quilts made out of the same
+kind of pieces, and jest as different as they can be. And that is jest
+the way with livin'. The Lord sends us the pieces, but we can cut them
+out and put 'em together pretty much to suit ourselves, and there's a
+heap more in the cuttin' out and the sewin' than there is in the
+caliker."
+
+In the great Central West, from Ohio to the Mississippi, the early
+settlers passed through the same cycle of development as did their
+ancestors in the beginnings of the original colonies along the
+seaboard. The same dangers and privations were faced, and the women,
+as well as the men, quickly adapted themselves to the hardships of
+life in a new country. Shortly after the War of 1812, which secured to
+the United States a clear title to this vast region, the great
+migration into the Ohio Valley began. Some families came by way of the
+Great Lakes, some by wagon over the Pennsylvania ridges, and still
+others by horseback over the mountains from Virginia. One and all of
+these pioneer families brought with them their most cherished
+household possessions. It is hardly necessary to say that every family
+had one or more quilts among its household goods. Many cases are on
+record of rare old mahogany bureaus and bedsteads transported hundreds
+of miles over trails through the wilderness on pack horses. Upon
+arrival at the site chosen for the future home, the real work of house
+building and furnishing began.
+
+ [Illustration: ORIGINAL FLORAL DESIGNS
+
+ This quilt contains twenty blocks, each of a different
+ design. The border is composed of festoons decorated
+ with cockscomb and sprays of flowers. A southern Indiana
+ quilt made about 1825]
+
+ [Illustration: CONVENTIONAL TULIP
+
+ Made from a pattern used 130 years ago. Colours: pink
+ and green]
+
+"Only he who knows what it means to hew a home out of the forest; of
+what is involved in the task of replacing mighty trees with corn; only
+he who has watched the log house rising in the clearing, and has
+witnessed the devotedness that gathers around the old log schoolhouse
+and the pathos of a grave in the wilderness, can understand how
+sobriety, decency, age, devoutness, beauty, and power belong to the
+story of those who began the mighty task of changing the wild west
+into the heart of a teeming continent." Thus Jenkin Lloyd Jones, in
+his address on "The Father of Lincoln," gives a graphic picture of the
+labours and trials confronting those who made the first settlements in
+what are now the flourishing states of Ohio, Indiana, Kentucky,
+Illinois, and Michigan.
+
+As in the colonies of New England, so here, the comforts of the
+family depended upon the thrift, energy, and thoughtfulness of the
+women. Practically every article of clothing worn by the entire
+family, as well as all household supplies, were the work of their busy
+hands. All day in the frontier cabin could be heard the hum of the
+spinning wheel, the clack of the loom, or the click of knitting
+needles. In many localities the added work of teaching the children
+fell to the mothers, and the home lessons given around the fireplace,
+heaped with glowing logs, were the only ones possible for many boys
+and girls. It is of particular interest to note how often learning and
+housekeeping went hand in hand in the first homes of this new country.
+The few lines following are extracts from the diary of a busy Indiana
+housewife of the period preceding the Mexican War, and show how fully
+occupied was the time of the pioneer woman:
+
+"November 10th. To-day was cider-making day, and all were up at
+sunrise."
+
+"December 1st. We killed a beef to-day, the neighbours helping."
+
+ [Illustration: CONVENTIONAL ROSE
+
+ A very striking pattern, made in Indiana about 75 years
+ ago. Colours: red, pink, and green]
+
+ [Illustration: CONVENTIONAL ROSE WREATH
+
+ This "Wreath of Roses" design has been in use for over
+ 100 years. Colours: red, green, pink, and yellow]
+
+"December 4th. I was much engaged in trying out my tallow. To-day I
+dipped candles and finished the 'Vicar of Wakefield.'"
+
+"December 8th. To-day I commenced to read the 'Life of Washington,'
+and I borrowed a singing book. Have been trying to make a bonnet. The
+cotton we raised served a very good purpose for candle-wicking when
+spun."
+
+In the Middle West, without friendly cooperation, the lot of the
+pioneer would have been much more difficult than it was. Julia
+Henderson Levering tells of the prevalence of this kindly custom in
+her interesting "Historic Indiana": "The social pleasures of the
+earliest days were largely connected with the helpful neighbourhood
+assistance in the homely, necessary tasks of the frontier. If a new
+cabin was to be built, the neighbours assembled for the house raising,
+for the logs were too heavy to be handled alone. When a clearing was
+made, the log rolling followed. All men for miles around came to help,
+and the women to help cook and serve the bountiful meals. Then there
+were corn huskings, wool shearings, apple parings, sugar boilings, and
+quilting bees."
+
+About 1820 a new channel of commerce was opened to the inhabitants of
+the Ohio Valley, in the advantages of which every household shared.
+This was the establishing of steamboat and flatboat communication with
+New Orleans. From out of the Wabash River alone over a thousand
+flatboats, laden with agricultural products, passed into the Ohio
+during the annual spring rise on their way to the seaport by the Gulf
+of Mexico. On their return voyage these boats were laden with sacks of
+coffee, quaint Chinese boxes of tea, china and silk from France, and
+mahogany and silver from England. In this manner the finest fabrics,
+which were hitherto obtainable only in those cities that possessed sea
+communication, were available in every river hamlet. Many of the fine
+old quilts now being brought to light in the Central West were wrought
+of foreign cloth which has made this long journey in some farmer's
+scow.
+
+In England during the middle of the past century, the Victorian period
+was known chiefly for its hideous array of cardboard mottoes done in
+brilliant wools, crochet tidies, and wax flowers. It is particularly
+fortunate that at this time the women of the United States were too
+fully occupied with their own household arts and industries to take up
+with the ideas of their English sisters. By far the best needlework
+of this period were the beautiful quilts and bedspreads, exquisite in
+colour and design, which were the product of American women. The
+finest quilts were wrought along designs largely original with the
+quilters themselves, who plied their needles in solitary farmhouses
+and out-of-the-way hamlets to which the influence of English idea in
+needlework could not penetrate. In no locality in our country can so
+many rare and beautiful quilts be found as in the Middle West. Many of
+the best were made during those early days of struggle for mere
+existence, when they served the busy housewife as the one precious
+outlet for her artistic aspirations.
+
+The type of quilt that may be called distinctively American was
+substantial in character; the material that entered into its
+construction was serviceable, of a good quality of cotton cloth, or
+handwoven linen, and the careful work put into it was intended to
+stand the test of time. The coloured materials combined with the white
+were also enduring, the colours being as nearly permanent as it was
+possible to procure. Some cottons were dyed by the quilt makers
+themselves, if desirable fast shades could not be readily procured
+otherwise. The fundamental idea was to make a quilt that would
+withstand the greatest possible amount of wear. Some of the artistic
+possibilities in both colour and design were often subordinated to the
+desire to make quilts as nearly imperishable as possible. The
+painstaking needlework required to produce a quilt deserved the best
+of material for its foundation. Silks, satins, velvets, and fine linen
+and cotton fabrics of delicate shades were not favoured as quilt
+material by the old-time needleworkers, who wrought for service first
+and beauty afterward.
+
+A most beautiful example of the American quilt at its best is found in
+the "Indiana Wreath." Its pleasing design, harmonious colours, and
+exquisite workmanship reveal to us the quilter's art in its greatest
+perfection. This quilt was made by Miss E. J. Hart, a most versatile
+and skilful needlewoman, in 1858, as shown by the small precise
+figures below the large wreath. The design is exceedingly well
+balanced in that the entire quilt surface is uniformly covered and no
+one feature is emphasized to the detriment of any other. The design
+element of the wreath is a compact group of flowers, fruit, and
+leaves, which is repeated ten times in making the complete circle.
+The vase filled with drooping sprays, flowers, and conventionalized
+buds forms an ideal centre for this wreath. Curving vines intermingled
+with flowers make a desirable and graceful border. This quilt is a
+little more than two and a half yards square, and the central wreath
+fills a space equal to the width of a double bed, for which it was
+evidently intended.
+
+ [Illustration: POINSETTIA
+
+ An applique quilt of red, blue, and green]
+
+ [Illustration: WHIG ROSE
+
+ On the reverse side is a small "gold pocket" in which
+ valuables may be secreted. Colours: yellow, red, and
+ green]
+
+Miss Hart displayed unusual ability in choosing and combining the
+limited materials at the disposal of the quilt maker in a newly
+settled region. The foundation is fine white muslin; the coloured
+material is calico, in the serviceable quality manufactured at that
+time, and of shades considered absolutely fast, then known as "oil
+boiled." Only four colours are used in the design: green, red, yellow,
+and pink, the latter having a small allover printed design in a darker
+shade.
+
+Miss Hart planned her quilting quite carefully. In the large blank
+spaces in the corners are placed special, original designs that have
+some features of the much-used "feather" pattern. Aside from these
+triangular corner designs all the quilting is in small diamonds, which
+form a very pleasing background for the effective coloured designs.
+The maker's name and the date are closely quilted in white in plain
+bold-faced type just below the wreath. In the centre of the wreath, in
+neat script in black thread, is quilted the name "Indiana Wreath," and
+all the stitchery of top and quilting is the very perfection of quilt
+making.
+
+The beautiful white quilts that are treasured as relics of past
+industry by their fortunate owners deserve special mention. They are
+rare because nowadays no one will expend the large amount of time
+necessary to complete one. The foundation of such a quilt is fine
+white muslin, or fine homespun and woven linen, with a very thin
+interlining. The beauty of the quilt depends upon the design drawn for
+the quilting and the fine stitches with which the quilting is done.
+There is usually a special design planned for these white quilts which
+includes a large central panel or pattern, with smaller designs for
+the corners embodying some of the ideas of the central panel. Around
+these decorative sections the background is so closely quilted as to
+resemble a woven fabric. This smooth, even background throws the
+principal designs into low relief. After the entire quilt is
+quilted and removed from the frames, the main design is frequently
+further accentuated by having all the most prominent features, such as
+the leaves and petals of flowers, stuffed. To accomplish this tiny
+holes are made on the wrong side of each section of the design and
+cotton is pushed in with a large needle until the section is stuffed
+full and tight. This tedious process is followed until every leaf and
+petal stands out in bold relief.
+
+ [Illustration: POPPY DESIGN
+
+ This is applied patchwork and therefore much more easily
+ made than pieced work; very simple quilting gives
+ prominence to the design]
+
+The fashion which has prevailed for many years of dressing beds all in
+white has no doubt caused the destruction of many beautiful quilts.
+The white quilts that have been preserved are now considered too
+valuable to be subjected to hard wear. The most exquisite ones were
+made in the last of the eighteenth and the beginning of the nineteenth
+centuries.
+
+It was the rage for white bed coverings that shortened the lives of
+many old pieced and patched quilts of good colouring. The "Country
+Contributor" tells of her experiences in dressing up the white beds:
+
+"I remember with regret the quilts I wore out, using them white side
+up in lieu of white Marseilles spreads. The latter we were far too
+poor to own; the 'tufted' ones had worn out; and I loathed the cheap
+'honeycombed' cotton things we were forced to use unless we were going
+to be frankly 'poor' and cover our beds with plain patchwork, made up
+hurriedly and quilted in simple 'fans' in plebeian squares, as poor
+folk who haven't time for elegant stitches did theirs. So I used the
+old quilts, making their fine stitches in intricate patterns serve for
+the design in a 'white spread,' turning the white muslin lining up. A
+beautiful white spread it made, too, I realize now, more fully than I
+did then, though I now would know much better than to turn the
+wonderful applique stars and flowers and wheels from view. Strange, is
+it not, that we relinquish so much of life's best joy and pleasure
+before we know what actually is good?" This fashion prevails to-day,
+in some instances insisted upon for sanitary reasons, but it has lost
+to us many of the finest examples of quilting that existed because
+where there were no coloured patterns to relieve the white expanse,
+the quilting had to be perfect. If you have a white quilt treasure it,
+for competent quilters are no longer numerous and few there are who
+can reproduce it.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+HOW QUILTS ARE MADE
+
+
+It is only in comparatively recent years that many articles of wearing
+apparel and house furnishings have been manufactured outside the home.
+One after another, spinning, weaving, shoemaking, candlemaking,
+tailoring, knitting, and similar tasks have been taken from the
+homekeeper because the same articles can be made better and cheaper
+elsewhere. The housewife still keeps busy, but is occupied with tasks
+more to her liking. Among the few home occupations that have survived
+is quilting. With many serviceable substitutes it is not really
+necessary for women to make quilts now, but the strange fascination
+about the work holds their interest. Quilt making has developed and
+progressed during the very period when textile arts in the home have
+declined under the influence of the factory. More quilts are being
+made at the present time and over a wider area than ever before.
+
+Quilts, as known and used to-day, may be divided into two general
+classes, washable and non-washable, depending upon the materials of
+which they are made. The methods for constructing each class are the
+same, and are so very simple that it seems hardly necessary to explain
+them.
+
+The name quilt implies two or more fabrics held together with many
+stitches. Webster defines a quilt as "Anything that is quilted,
+especially as a quilted bedcover or a skirt worn by women; any cover
+or garment made by putting wool, cotton, etc., between two cloths and
+stitching them together." The verb, to quilt, he defines as "To stitch
+or to sew together at frequent intervals in order to confine in place
+the several layers of cloth and wadding of which a garment, comforter,
+etc., may be made. To stitch or sew in lines or patterns."
+
+The "Encyclopaedia Britannica" is a little more explicit and also gives
+the derivation of the name, quilt, as follows: "Probably a coverlet
+for a bed consisting of a mass of feathers, down, wool, or other soft
+substances, surrounded by an outer covering of linen, cloth, or other
+material." In its earlier days the "quilt" was often made thick and
+sewed as a form of mattress. The term was also given to a stitched,
+wadded lining for body armour. "The word came into English from old
+French _cuilte_. This is derived from Latin _culcitra_, a stuffed
+mattress or cushion. From the form _culcitra_ came old French _cotra_,
+or _coutre_ whence _coutre pointe_; this was corrupted into
+counterpoint, which in turn was changed to counterpane. The word
+'pane' is also from the Latin _pannus_, a piece of cloth. Thus
+'counterpane,' a coverlet for a bed, and 'quilt' are by origin the
+same word."
+
+Broadly speaking, from these definitions, any article made up with an
+interlining may be called a quilt. However, usage has restricted the
+meaning of the word until now it is applied to a single form of bed
+covering. In the United States the distinction has been carried even
+farther and a quilt is understood to be a light weight, closely
+stitched bedcover. When made thicker, and consequently warmer, it is
+called a "comfort."
+
+The three necessary parts of a quilt are the top, the lining or back,
+and the interlining. The top, which is the important feature, unless
+the quilting is to be the only ornamentation, may be a single piece of
+plain cloth; or it may be pieced together from many small pieces
+different in size, colour, and shape, so as to form either simple or
+fanciful designs. The top may also be adorned with designs cut from
+fabrics of varying colours and applied to the foundation with fancy
+stitches, or it may be embroidered. The materials may be either
+cotton, linen, wool, or silk. The back is usually of plain material,
+which requires no description. The interlining, if the quilting is to
+be close and elaborate, must be thin. If warmth is desired a thicker
+interlining is used and the lines of quilting are spaced farther
+apart. The design of the top and the quilting lend themselves very
+readily to all manner of variations, and as a result there is an
+almost infinite variety of quilts.
+
+For convenience in making, nearly every quilt is composed of a number
+of blocks of regular form and size which, when joined together, make
+the body of the quilt. Each of these blocks may have a design complete
+in itself, or may be only part of a large and complicated design
+covering the whole top of the quilt.
+
+ [Illustration: HARRISON ROSE
+
+ This quilt is at least 75 years old. The rose is pieced
+ of old rose and two shades of pink; the stem and leaves
+ are applique]
+
+ [Illustration: DETAIL OF HARRISON ROSE, SHOWING
+ QUILTING]
+
+ [Illustration: QUILTING DESIGNS
+
+ (a) Single Diagonal Lines
+ (b) Double Diagonal Lines
+ (c) Triple Diagonal Lines]
+
+There is a radical distinction between the verbs "to piece" and "to
+patch," as used in connection with the making of quilts. In this
+instance the former means to join together separate pieces of like
+material to make sections or blocks that are in turn set together to
+form the top of the quilt. The pieces are usually of uniform shape and
+size and of contrasting colours. They are sewed together with a
+running stitch, making a seam upon the wrong side. The quilt called
+"Star of the East" is an excellent example of a pieced quilt in which
+a number of small pieced sections are united to form a single design
+that embraces the entire top of the quilt.
+
+Patches are commonly associated with misfortune. The one who needs
+them is unfortunate, and the one who has to sew them on is usually an
+object of sympathy, according to a wise old saw: "A hole may be
+thought to be an accident of the day, but a patch is a sure sign of
+poverty." But patch quilts belong to a different class than the
+patches of necessity, and are the aristocrats of the quilt family,
+while the pieced quilts came under the heading of poor relations.
+
+However, this term is a misnomer when applied to some pieced quilts.
+Many of the "scrap quilts," as they are called in some localities, are
+very pretty when made from gay pieces--carefully blended--of the
+various shades of a single colour. The stars in the design called
+"The Unknown Star" are made of a great variety of different patterns
+of pink calico, yet the blending is so good that the effect is greatly
+heightened by the multiplicity of shades.
+
+Pieced quilts make a special appeal to women who delight in the
+precise and accurate work necessary in their construction. For those
+who enjoy making pieced quilts, there is practically no limit to the
+variety of designs available, some of which are as intricate as the
+choicest mosaic. The bold and rather heavy design known as "Jacob's
+Ladder" is a good example of the pieced quilt. Another is the
+"Feathered Star," whose lightness and delicacy make it a most charming
+pattern. The pieced quilt with one large star in the centre, called by
+some "The Star of the East" and by others "The Star of Bethlehem," is
+a striking example of mathematical exactness in quilt piecing. In
+quilts made after this pattern all the pieces must be exactly the same
+size and all the seams must be the same width in order to produce a
+perfect star.
+
+The French word "applique" is frequently used to describe the patched
+or laid-on work. There is no single word in the English language that
+exactly translates "applique." The term "applied work" comes nearest
+and is the common English term. By common usage patchwork is now
+understood to mean quilt making, and while used indiscriminately for
+both pieced and patched quilts, it really belongs to that type where
+the design is cut from one fabric and applied upon another. "Sewed on"
+and "laid quilts" are old terms given to applique or patched quilts.
+
+The distinction between "pieced" and "patched" quilts is fittingly
+described by Miss Bessie Daingerfield, the Kentuckian who has written
+interestingly of her experiences with mountain quilt makers. She says:
+"To every mountain woman her piece quilts are her daily interest, but
+her patch quilts are her glory. Even in these days, you women of the
+low country know a piece quilt when you see one, and doubtless you
+learned to sew on a 'four-patch' square. But have you among your
+treasures a patch quilt? The piece quilt, of course, is made of
+scraps, and its beauty or ugliness depends upon the material and
+colours that come to hand, the intricacy of the design, and one's
+skill in executing it. I think much character building must be done
+while hand and eye cooperate to make, for example, a star quilt with
+its endless tiny points for fitting and joining, but a patch quilt
+is a more ambitious affair. For this the pattern is cut from the whole
+piece and appliqued on unbleached cotton. The colours used are
+commonly oil red, oil green, and a certain rather violent yellow, and
+sometimes indigo blue. These and these only are considered reliable
+enough for a patch quilt, which is made for the generations that come
+after. The making of such a quilt is a work of oriental patience."
+
+ [Illustration: ORIGINAL ROSE DESIGN MADE IN 1840
+
+ The maker was lame, and only able to walk about in her
+ garden. Colours: red, green, pink, and yellow]
+
+ [Illustration: PINEAPPLE DESIGN
+
+ Colours: red and green]
+
+"Applique work is thought by some to be an inferior kind of
+embroidery, although it is not. It is not a lower but another kind of
+needlework in which more is made of the stuff than of the stitching.
+In applique the craft to the needleworker is not carried to its limit,
+but, on the other hand, it calls for great skill in design. Effective
+it must be: coarse it may be: vulgar it should not be: trivial it can
+hardly be: mere prettiness is beyond its scope: but it lends itself to
+dignity of design and nobility of treatment." The foregoing quotation
+is from "Art in Needlework" by Louis F. Day and Mary Buckle. It is of
+interest because it explains how applique or "laid-on" needlework
+ranks with other kinds.
+
+After all the different parts of a quilt top are either pieced or
+decorated with applied designs, they are joined together with narrow
+seams upon the wrong side of the quilt. If a border is included in the
+design it should harmonize in colour and design with the body of the
+quilt. However, in many quilts, borders seem to be "a thing apart"
+from the remainder of the top and, apparently, have been added as an
+afterthought to enlarge the top after the blocks had been joined. In
+old quilts a border frequently consisted of simple bands of colours
+similar to those found in the body of the quilt, but more often new
+material entirely different in colour and quality was added when
+greater size was desired. Many old quilts were three yards or more
+square, generous proportions being very essential in the old days of
+broad four-posters heaped with feather beds.
+
+ [Illustration: QUILTING DESIGNS
+
+ (a) Diamonds
+ (b) Hanging Diamonds
+ (c) Broken Plaid]
+
+The top being completed, the back or lining, of the same dimensions as
+the top, is next made of some light-weight material, usually white
+cotton. The quilt, to quote the usual expression, is then "ready for
+the frames." In earlier days the quilting frame could be found in
+every home, its simple construction making this possible. In its
+usual form it consists of four narrow pieces of wood, two somewhat
+longer than a quilt, and two shorter, perhaps half as long, with holes
+bored in the ends of each piece. These pieces are made into an oblong
+frame by fastenings of bolts or pegs, and are commonly supported on
+the backs of chairs. More pretentious frames are made with round
+pieces for the sides, and with ends made to stand upon the floor,
+about the height of a table, these ends having round holes into which
+the side pieces fit. Such a frame is then self-supporting and
+frequently has a cogwheel attachment to keep the sides in place and to
+facilitate the rolling and unrolling of the quilt. The majority of
+frames are very plain, but occasionally a diligent quilter is
+encountered who has one made to suit her particular requirements, or
+has received an unusually well-built one as a gift. One old frame
+worthy of mention was made of cherry with elaborate scroll designed
+ends, cherry side bars, and a set of cogwheels also made of cherry;
+all finished and polished like a choice piece of furniture.
+
+ [Illustration: VIRGINIA ROSE
+
+ This original rose design was made by Caroline Stalnaker
+ of Lewis County, West Virginia. She was one of the
+ thirteen children of Charles Stalnaker, who was a
+ "rock-ribbed" Baptist, and an ardent Northern
+ sympathizer. During the Civil War this quilt was buried
+ along with the family silver and other valuables to
+ protect it from depredations by Confederate soldiers.
+ One of Caroline Stalnaker's neighbors and friends was
+ Stonewall Jackson.
+
+ In this quilt, as in many old ones, the border has been
+ omitted on the side intended to go at the head of the
+ bed. This quilt is still unfinished, having never been
+ quilted]
+
+ [Illustration: ROSE OF LEMOINE
+
+ An old and distinctly American design]
+
+Each side bar or roll of the quilting frame is tightly wound with
+cotton strips or has a piece of muslin firmly fastened to its entire
+length, to which is sewed the edges of the lining, one side to each
+bar. Then the extra length is rolled up on one side of the frame, and
+after being tightly stretched, the wooden pieces are securely
+fastened. On this stretched lining or back of the quilt, the cotton or
+wool used for filling or interlining is spread very carefully and
+smoothly; then with even greater care the top is put in place, its
+edge pinned or basted to the edge of the lining, and drawn tightly
+over the cotton. The ends of the quilt must also be stretched. This is
+done by pinning pieces of muslin to the quilt and wrapping them around
+the ends of the frame. Great care is required to keep all edges true
+and to stretch all parts of the quilt uniformly.
+
+Upon this smooth top the quilting is drawn, for even the most expert
+quilters require outlines to quilt by. If the quilt top is light in
+colour the design is drawn with faint pencil lines; if the colours are
+too dark to show pencil markings, then with a chalked line. It is a
+fascinating thing to children to watch the marking of a quilt with the
+chalk lines. The firm cord used for this is drawn repeatedly across a
+piece of chalk or through powdered starch until well coated, then held
+near the quilt, and very tightly stretched, while a second person
+draws it up and lets it fly back with a snap, thus making a straight
+white line. How closely the lines are drawn depends wholly upon the
+ambition and diligence of the quilter. The lines may be barely a
+quarter of an inch apart, or may be placed only close enough together
+to perform their function of keeping the interlining in place.
+
+Patterns of quiltings are not as plentiful as designs for the
+patchwork tops of quilts; only about eight or ten standard patterns
+being in general use. The simplest pattern consists of "single
+diagonal" lines, spaced to suit the work in hand. The lines are run
+diagonally across the quilt instead of parallel with the weave, in
+order that they may show to better advantage, and also because the
+cloth is less apt to tear or pull apart than if the quilting lines are
+run in the same direction as the threads of the fabric. The
+elaboration of the "single" diagonal into sets of two or more parallel
+lines, thus forming the "double" and "triple" diagonals, is the first
+step toward ornamentation in quilting. A further advance is made when
+the quilting lines are crossed, by means of which patterns like the
+"square," "diamond," and "hanging diamond" are produced.
+
+ [Illustration: THE SUNFLOWER QUILT
+
+ Shows a realistic, bold design of vivid colouring. The
+ border is harmonious, suggesting a firm foundation for
+ the stems. The quilting in the centre is a design of
+ spider webs, leaves, and flowers]
+
+Wavy lines and various arrangements of hoops, circles, and segments
+of circles are among the more complex quilting patterns, which are not
+particularly difficult. Plates and saucers of various diameters are
+always available to serve as markers in laying out such designs. The
+"pineapple," "broken plaid," and "shell" patterns are very popular,
+especially with those who are more experienced in the art. One very
+effective design used by many quilters is known as the "Ostrich
+Feather." These so-called feathers are arranged in straight bands,
+waved lines, or circles, and--when the work is well done--are very
+beautiful. The "fan" and "twisted rope" patterns are familiar to the
+older quilters but are not much used at the present time.
+
+ [Illustration: QUILTING DESIGNS
+
+ (a) Rope
+ (b) Shell
+ (c) Fan]
+
+ [Illustration: QUILTING DESIGNS
+
+ (a) Feathers in Bands
+ (b) Feathers in Waved Lines
+ (c) Feathers in Circles]
+
+Frequently the quilting design follows the pieced or patched pattern
+and is then very effective, especially when a floral pattern is used.
+Some quilters show much originality and ingenuity in incorporating
+into their work the outlines of the flowers and leaves of the quilt
+design. Sometimes the pieced top is of such common material as to seem
+an unworthy basis for the beautiful work of an experienced quilter,
+who stitches with such patient hand, wasting, some may think, her
+art upon too poor a subject. However, for the consolation of those who
+consider quilting a wicked waste of time, it may be added that
+nowadays expert quilters are very few indeed, and enthusiasts who have
+spent weeks piecing a beautiful quilt have been known to wait a year
+before being able to get it quilted by an expert in this art.
+
+On the thin cotton quilts that have the elaborate quilting designs and
+are the pride of the owner, the quilting is done with fine cotton
+thread, about number seventy. The running stitch used in quilting
+should be as small and even as it is possible for the quilter to make.
+This is a very difficult feat to accomplish, since the quilt composed
+of two thicknesses of cloth with an interlining of cotton is stretched
+so tightly in the frame that it is quite difficult to push the needle
+through. Also the quilter, while bending over the frame with one hand
+above and one hand below, is in a somewhat unnatural strained
+position. It requires much patience to acquire the knack of sitting in
+the rather uncomfortable quilter's position without quickly tiring.
+
+Skill and speed in quilting can be acquired only through much
+practice. Perfect quilting cannot be turned out by a novice in the
+art, no matter how skilful she may be at other kinds of needlework.
+The patience and skill of the quilter are especially taxed when, in
+following the vagaries of some design, she is forced to quilt lines
+that extend away from her instead of toward her. As the result of many
+years spent over the quilting frame, some quilters acquire an unusual
+dexterity in handling the needle, and occasionally one is encountered
+who can quilt as well with one hand as with the other.
+
+ [Illustration: ORIGINAL DESIGNS FROM OLD QUILTS]
+
+ [Illustration: CHARTER OAK
+
+ With the American eagle in the border]
+
+ [Illustration: PUFFED QUILT OF SILK
+
+ This is a very popular pieced quilt, composed of carefully
+ saved bits of silks and velvets]
+
+Quilting is usually paid for by the amount of thread used, no
+consideration being given to the amount of time expended on the work.
+A spool of cotton thread, such as is found in every dry-goods store,
+averaging two hundred yards to the spool, is the universal measure.
+The price charged is more a matter of locality than excellence of
+workmanship. A certain price will prevail in one section among all
+quilters there, while in another, not far removed, two or three times
+that price will be asked for the same work. When many of the old
+quilts, now treasured as remembrances of our diligent and ambitious
+ancestors, were made, one dollar per spool was the usual price paid
+for quilting. However, as the number of quilters has decreased, the
+price of quilting has increased, until as much as five dollars per
+spool is now asked in some parts of the country. Even at the advanced
+prices, it is exceedingly difficult to find sufficient quilters to
+complete the many pieced and applique quilts being made.
+
+After the space of some twelve inches, which is as far as the quilter
+can reach conveniently, has been quilted, the completed portion is
+rolled up on the side of the frame nearest the quilter. From the other
+side another section is then unrolled and marked for quilting, and
+quilted as far as the worker can reach. Thus quilting and rolling are
+continued until the whole quilt is gone over, after which it is taken
+from the frame and the edges neatly bound with a narrow piece of bias
+material, either white or of some harmonizing colour. Since all of the
+stitches are taken entirely through the quilt, the design worked into
+the top is repeated on the lining, so that the back makes a white
+spread of effective pattern in low relief. Very often the back or
+reverse side is as beautiful as the top, and many lovely quilts have
+ended their years of service as white counterpanes during that period
+when the vogue for white beds reigned. Now, however, owners are glad
+to display them in all their gorgeousness, and they no longer
+masquerade as white bedspreads.
+
+Occasionally the date of making and the initials of the maker are
+quilted in a corner, but it is seldom that even this much is visible
+to tell of the quilt's origin. How interesting it would be if some
+bits of the story of the maker could have been sewed into a few of the
+old quilts; for such works of art, that are so long in making, deserve
+to have some facts relating to them live at least as long as they.
+
+When a bedcover of exceptional warmth is desired, several sheets of
+cotton or wool prepared for that purpose are laid one over the other
+between the top and back. As this is too thick to allow a needle to be
+pushed through easily, and even stitches cannot be taken, then
+quilting gives way to tying or knotting. Threads of silk, cotton,
+linen, or wool are drawn through with coarse needles and the ends tied
+in tight, firm knots. These knots are arranged at close, regular
+intervals to prevent the interlining from slipping out of place. To
+this kind of covering is applied the very appropriate name of
+"comfort." Holland, Germany, Switzerland, and all of Scandinavia use
+quilted down and feather comforts. In fact, the down comfort has
+become international in its use. It is found in almost every home in
+the colder regions of Europe and America, and on chilly nights is a
+comfort indeed. They are usually made in one colour and, aside from
+the quilting, which is in bold, artistic designs, are without other
+decoration. The quilting on down comforts is done by machines made
+expressly for that work.
+
+Quilting is not confined to the making of quilts. The petticoats worn
+by the women of Holland are substantial affairs made of either woollen
+cloth or satin, as the purse permits, heavily interlined and
+elaborately quilted. The Dutch belle requires from four to nine of
+these skirts to give her the figure typical of her country. Both the
+Chinese and Japanese make frequent use of quilting in their thickly
+padded coats and kimonos, and it may be that from them the early Dutch
+voyagers and traders brought back the custom to Holland.
+
+ [Illustration:
+
+ (a) Design from an Old English Quilt
+ (b) Medallion Design
+ (c) Pineapple Design]
+
+ [Illustration: VARIEGATED HEXAGON, SILK
+
+ Colours: cherry, light blue, pink, black, and a yellow
+ centre]
+
+ [Illustration: ROMAN STRIPE, SILK]
+
+A knowledge of the simplest form of sewing is all that is necessary to
+piece quilts. The running stitch used for narrow seams is the first
+stitch a beginner learns. There are other stitches needed to make
+a patchwork quilt, which frequently develops into quite an elaborate
+bit of needlework. The applied designs should always be neatly hemmed
+to the foundation; some, however, are embroidered and the edges of the
+designs finished with a buttonhole stitch, and other fancy stitches
+may be introduced.
+
+In quilt making, as in every other branch of needlework, much
+experience is required to do good work. It takes much time and
+practice to acquire accuracy in cutting and arranging all the
+different pieces. A discriminating eye for harmonizing colours is also
+a great advantage. But above all requirements the quilt maker must be
+an expert needleworker, capable of making the multitude of tiny
+stitches with neatness and precision if she would produce the perfect
+quilt.
+
+Appreciation of nature is an attribute of many quilt makers, as shown
+by their efforts to copy various forms of leaf and flower. There are
+many conventionalized floral patterns on applique quilts that give
+evidence of much ability and originality in their construction. For
+the pioneer woman there was no convenient school of design, and when
+she tired of the oft-repeated quilt patterns of her neighbourhood she
+turned to her garden for suggestions. The striking silhouettes of
+familiar blossoms seen on many quilts are the direct result of her
+nature study.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+QUILT NAMES
+
+
+Among the most fascinating features of quilt lore are the great number
+and wonderful variety of names given to quilt designs. A distinct
+individuality is worked into every quilt by its maker, which in most
+instances makes it worthy of a name. The many days spent in creating
+even a simple quilt give the maker ample time in which to ponder over
+a name for the design, so that the one selected generally reflects
+some peculiarity in her personality. History, politics, religion,
+nature, poetry, and romance, all are stitched into the gayly coloured
+blocks and exert their influence on quilt appellations. Careful
+consideration of a large number of quilts reveals but few that have
+been named in a haphazard way; in nearly every instance there was a
+reason or at least a suggestion for the name.
+
+In most cases the relation between name and design is so evident that
+the correct name at once suggests itself, even to the novice in quilt
+making. The common "star" pattern, in which one star is made the
+centre of each block, is invariably known as the "Five-pointed Star."
+A variation in the size of the stars or the number of colours entering
+into their composition has not resulted in any new name.
+
+It is quite usual, however, when there is a slight deviation from a
+familiar pattern, resulting from either the introduction of some
+variation or by the omission of a portion of the old design, to make a
+corresponding change in the name. Good illustrations of this custom are
+the minor alterations which have been made in the tree trunk of the
+"tree" pattern. These may be so slight as to be entirely unobserved by
+the casual admirer, yet they are responsible for at least three new
+names: "Pine Tree," "Temperance Tree," and "Tree of Paradise." A minor
+change in the ordinary "Nine Patch," with a new name as a result, is
+another striking example of how very slight an alteration may be in
+order to inspire a new title. In this case, the central block is cut
+somewhat larger than in the old "Nine Patch," and the four corner
+blocks are, by comparison with the centre block, quite small. This
+slight change is in reality a magical transformation, for the staid
+"Nine Patch" has now become a lively "Puss-in-the-Corner." The changes
+in some patterns have come about through efforts to make a limited
+amount of highly prized colour brighten a whole quilt. This
+circumstance, as much as any other, has been the cause of new names.
+
+ [Illustration: AMERICAN LOG CABIN, SILK AND WOOL
+
+ In Colonial days this was known as a "pressed" quilt]
+
+ [Illustration: DEMOCRAT ROSE
+
+ Made in Pennsylvania about 1845]
+
+Important events occurring during the construction periods of old
+quilts are quite frequently recalled to us by their names. The
+stirring frontier activities and the great men of history made
+impressions on the mind of the housewife which found expression in the
+names of her quilts. "Washington's Plumes," "Mexican Rose," and "Rose
+of Dixie" are old quilt names reflecting domestic interest in
+important events. The hardships and vicissitudes endured by the sturdy
+pioneers were constantly in the minds of the early American quilters
+and inspired many names. "Pilgrim's Pride," "Bear's Paws," "Rocky Road
+to Kansas," "Texas Tears," and "Rocky Road to California" have great
+interest as they reveal to us the thoughts of our great-grandmothers
+over their quilting frames.
+
+The names having political significance, which were attached to
+quilts, show that the women as well as the men had a keen interest in
+the affairs of our country in its earlier days. "Old Tippecanoe,"
+"Lincoln's Platform," "Harrison Rose," "Democrat Rose," "Whig Rose,"
+and "Radical Rose" are all suggestive of the great discussion over
+slavery. Of the last name, an old lady, famous for her quilt making,
+said: "Here's my 'Radical Rose.' I reckon you've heard I was the first
+human that ever put black in a Radical Rose. Thar hit is, right plumb
+in the middle. Well, whenever you see black in a Radical Rose you can
+know hit war made atter the second year of the war (Civil War). Hit
+was this way, ever' man war a-talkin' about the Radicals and all the
+women tuk to makin' Radical Roses. One day I got to studying that thar
+ought to be some black in that thar pattern, sence half the trouble
+was to free the niggers, and hit didn't look fair to leave them out.
+And from that day to this thar's been black in ever' Radical Rose."
+
+Other names having patriotic, political, or historical significance
+are:
+
+ Union
+ Yankee Puzzle
+ Continental
+ Union Calico Quilt
+ Star-Spangled Banner
+ Confederate Rose
+ Boston Puzzle
+
+There is also the "Centennial" in commemoration of the Centennial
+Exposition held at Philadelphia in 1876, and "The World's Fair,"
+"World's Fair Puzzle," and "World's Fair Blocks" to perpetuate the
+grandeurs of the great exposition held at Chicago in 1893.
+
+Religion is closely associated with the life of the industrious,
+sober-minded dwellers of our villages and farms, and it is the most
+natural thing in the world for the Biblical teachings to crop out in
+the names of their quilts, as the following names indicate:
+
+ Garden of Eden
+ Golden Gates
+ Jacob's Ladder
+ Joseph's Coat
+ Solomon's Temple
+ Solomon's Crown
+ Star of Bethlehem
+ Tree of Paradise
+ Forbidden Fruit Tree
+
+The glories of the sky enjoy ample prominence among quilt names.
+Beginning with the "Rising Sun," of which there are several different
+designs, there follow "Sunshine" and "Sunburst," then "Rainbow," and
+finally a whole constellation of "Stars":
+
+ Blazing Star
+ Brunswick Star
+ Combination Star
+ Chicago Star
+ Columbia Star
+ Crosses and Stars
+ Cluster of Stars
+ California Star
+ Diamond Star
+ Eight-pointed Star
+ Evening Star
+ Feather Star
+ Five-pointed Star
+ Flying Star
+ Four X Star
+ Four Stars Patch
+ Joining Star
+ Ladies' Beautiful Star
+ Morning Star
+ New Star
+ Novel Star
+ Odd Star
+ Premium Star
+ Ribbon Star
+ Rolling Star
+ Sashed Star
+ Seven Stars
+ Star Lane
+ Star of Bethlehem
+ Star and Chains
+ Star of Many Points
+ Star and Squares
+ Star and Cubes
+ Star Puzzle
+ Shooting Star
+ Star of the West
+ Star and Cross
+ Star of Texas
+ Stars upon Stars
+ Squares and Stars
+ St. Louis Star
+ Star, A
+ Twinkling Star
+ Union Star
+ Wheel and Star
+ Western Star
+
+In connection with the "Star" quilt names it is worthy of notice that
+geometric names outnumber those of any other class. "Squares,"
+"triangles," and "circles" are well represented, but the "Stars"
+easily lead with nearly fifty names.
+
+Names of various other geometric patterns appear below:
+
+ Art Square
+ Barrister's Blocks
+ Beggar's Blocks
+ Box Blocks
+ Circle within Circle
+ Cross within Cross
+ Cross and Crown
+ Cube Work
+ Cube Lattice
+ Diamonds
+ Diamond Cube
+ Diamond Design
+ Double Squares
+ Domino and Square
+ Eight-point Design
+ Five Stripes
+ Fool's Square
+ Four Points
+ Greek Cross
+ Greek Square
+ Hexagonal
+ Interlaced Blocks
+ Maltese Cross
+ Memory Blocks
+ Memory Circle
+ New Four Patch
+ New Nine Patch
+ Octagon
+ Pinwheel Square
+ Red Cross
+ Ribbon Squares
+ Roman Cross
+ Sawtooth Patchwork
+ Square and Swallow
+ Square and a Half
+ Squares and Stripes
+ Square and Triangle
+ Stripe Squares
+ The Cross
+ The Diamond
+ Triangle Puzzle
+ Triangular Triangle
+ Variegated Diamonds
+ Variegated Hexagons
+
+ [Illustration: "PINK ROSE" DESIGN]
+
+Names of a nautical turn are to be expected for quilts which originate
+in seaside cottages and seaport villages. "Bounding Betty," "Ocean
+Waves," and "Storm at Sea" have a flavour as salty as the spray which
+dampens them when they are spread out to sun by the sandy shore.
+
+That poetry and romance have left their mark on the quilt is shown by
+the names that have been drawn from these sources. "Lady of the
+Lake," "Charm," "Air Castle," "Wheel of Fortune," and "Wonder of the
+World" are typical examples. Sentimental names are also in evidence,
+as "Love Rose," "Lovers' Links," "True Lovers' Knot," "Friendship
+Quilt," and "Wedding Knot."
+
+Nature furnishes more suggestions for beautiful quilt designs than any
+other source. So frequently are her models resorted to by quilt makers
+the world over that many different designs have been inspired by the
+same leaf or flower. The rose especially is used again and again, and
+will always be the favourite flower of the quilter. There are at least
+twenty "rose" names to prove how this flower has endeared itself to
+the devotees of piece-block and quilting frame:
+
+ Rose
+ California Rose
+ Complex Rose
+ Confederate Rose
+ Democrat Rose
+ Dutch Rose
+ Harrison Rose
+ Harvest Rose
+ Love Rose
+ Mexican Rose
+ Prairie Rose
+ Rose of Sharon
+ Rose of Dixie
+ Rose of the Carolinas
+ Rosebud and Leaves
+ Rose Album
+ Rose of LeMoine
+ Radical Rose
+ Whig Rose
+ Wild Rose
+ Wreath of Roses
+
+Other flowery names are also popular:
+
+ Basket of Lilies
+ Bouquet
+ Cleveland Lilies
+ Cactus Blossom
+ Chrysanthemums
+ Double Peony
+ Daisies
+ Daffodils and Butterflies
+ Field Daisies
+ Flower Basket
+ Iris
+ Jonquils
+ Lily Quilt Pattern
+ Lily of the Valley
+ Morning Glory
+ Morning Gray Wreath
+ Persian Palm Lady
+ Poppy
+ Pansies and Butterflies
+ Single Sunflowers
+ Sunflowers
+ Tulip in Vase
+ Tassel Plant
+ Tulip Blocks
+ Three-flowered Sunflower
+ The Mayflower
+ Tulip Lady Finger
+ White Day Lily
+
+When seeking flowers that lend themselves readily to quilt designs it
+is best to choose those whose leaves and blossoms present clear,
+distinct, and easily traced outlines. The names of many of the quaint
+varieties that flourish in old-fashioned gardens, as lilacs, phlox,
+larkspur, and marigolds, are absent from the list. This is because
+their lacy foliage and complex arrangement of petals cannot be
+reproduced satisfactorily in quilt materials.
+
+Even the lowly vegetables secure some mention among quilt names with
+"Corn and Beans." The fruits and trees are well represented, as noted
+by the following list:
+
+ Apple Hexagon
+ Cherry Basket
+ California Oak Leaf
+ Cypress Leaf
+ Christmas Tree
+ Fruit Basket
+ Grape Basket
+ Hickory Leaf
+ Imperial Tea
+ Indian Plum
+ Live Oak Tree
+ Little Beech Tree
+ Maple Leaf
+ May Berry Leaf
+ Olive Branch
+ Orange Peel
+ Oak Leaf and Tulip
+ Oak Leaf and Acorns
+ Pineapple
+ Pine Tree
+ Sweet Gum Leaf
+ Strawberry
+ Tea Leaf
+ Tufted Cherry
+ Temperance Tree
+ Tulip Tree Leaves
+
+The names of birds and insects are almost as popular as those of
+flowers, as this list will bear witness:
+
+ Bluebird
+ Brown-tailed Moth
+ Butterflies
+ Bird's Nest
+ Crow's Foot
+ Chimney Swallows
+ Cockscomb
+ Dove in the Window
+ Duck and Ducklings
+ Four Little Birds
+ Goose Tracks
+ Goose in the Pond
+ Honeycomb
+ Honeycomb Patch
+ Hen and Chickens
+ King's Crows
+ Peacocks and Flowers
+ Spider's Den
+ Shoo Fly
+ Spider's Web
+ Swarm of Bees
+ The Two Doves
+ Wild Goose Chase
+
+ [Illustration: ORIGINAL ROSE NO. 3
+
+ Made in Indiana about 75 years ago. Colors: red and
+ green]
+
+ [Illustration: WHITE QUILT, WITH STUFFED QUILTING
+ DESIGNS
+
+ This quilt was made in New England, and was finished in
+ 1801, but how long a period was occupied in the making
+ is unknown. It was designed by a young architect for an
+ ambitious young quilter]
+
+The animals also must be credited with their share of names:
+
+ Bear's Foot
+ Bear's Paws
+ Bat's Wings
+ Bunnies
+ Cats and Mice
+ Flying Bat
+ Four Frogs Quilt
+ Leap Frog
+ Puss-in-the-Corner
+ The Snail's Trail
+ Toad in the Puddle
+ The Lobster (1812)
+
+Occasionally the quilt maker was honoured by having her name given to
+her handiwork, as "Mrs. Morgan's Choice," "Mollie's Choice," "Sarah's
+Favourite," and "Fanny's Fan." Aunts and grandmothers figure as
+prominently in the naming of quilts as they do in the making of them.
+"Aunt Sukey's Patch," "Aunt Eliza's Star Point," "Grandmother's Own,"
+"Grandmother's Dream," and "Grandmother's Choice" are typical
+examples.
+
+Quilt names in which reference is made to persons and personalities
+are quite numerous, as is proved by the list given below:
+
+ Coxey's Camp
+ Crazy Ann
+ Dutchman's Puzzle
+ Everybody's Favourite
+ Eight Hands Around
+ Grandmother's Choice
+ Garfield's Monument
+ Gentleman's Fancy
+ Handy Andy
+ Hands All Around
+ Hobson's Kiss
+ Indian Plumes
+ Indian Hatchet
+ Jack's House
+ Joseph's Necktie
+ King's Crown
+ Lady Fingers
+ Ladies' Wreath
+ Ladies' Delight
+ Mary's Garden
+ Mrs. Cleveland's Choice
+ Old Maid's Puzzle
+ Odd Fellows' Chain
+ Princess Feather
+ President's Quilt
+ Sister's Choice
+ The Tumbler
+ The Hand
+ The Priscilla
+ Twin Sisters
+ Vice-President's Quilt
+ Widower's Choice
+ Washington's Puzzle
+ Washington's Sidewalk
+ Washington's Plumes
+
+Names derived both from local neighbourhoods and foreign lands occupy
+a prominent place in the quilt list:
+
+ Arabic Lattice
+ American Log Patch
+ Arkansas Traveller
+ Alabama Beauty
+ Blackford's Beauty
+ Boston Puzzle
+ Columbian Puzzle
+ Cross Roads to Texas
+ Double Irish Chain
+ French Basket
+ Grecian Design
+ Indiana Wreath
+ Irish Puzzle
+ Kansas Troubles
+ Linton
+ London Roads
+ Mexican Rose
+ Oklahoma Boomer
+ Philadelphia Beauty
+ Philadelphia Pavement
+ Rocky Glen
+ Royal Japanese Vase
+ Rocky Road to Kansas
+ Rocky Road to California
+ Road to California
+ Roman Stripe
+ Rockingham's Beauty
+ Rose of Dixie
+ Rose of the Carolinas
+ Star of Texas
+ Texas Flower
+ The Philippines
+ Texas Tears
+ Venetian Design
+ Village Church
+ Virginia Gentleman
+
+Sometimes the names of a flower and a locality are combined, as in
+"Persian Palm Lily" and "Carolina Lily." This latter design is quite a
+popular one in the Middle West, where it is known also as "Star
+Flower."
+
+Figures and letters come in for some attention, for a few of the
+designs thus named are quite artistic. The best known are "Boxed I's,"
+"Capital I," "Double Z," "Four E's," "Fleur-de-Lis," "Letter H,"
+"Letter X," and "T Quartette."
+
+Inanimate objects, particularly those about the house, inspired many
+names for patterns, some of which are quite appropriate. A number of
+such names are given here:
+
+ Album
+ Base Ball
+ Basket Quilt
+ Block Album
+ Brickwork Quilt
+ Carpenter's Rule
+ Carpenter's Square
+ Churn Dash
+ Cog Wheel
+ Compass
+ Crossed Canoes
+ Diagonal Log Chain
+ Domino
+ Double Wrench
+ Flutter Wheel
+ Fan
+ Fan Patch
+ Fan and Rainbow
+ Ferris Wheel
+ Flower Pot
+ Hour Glass
+ Ice Cream Bowl
+ Log Patch
+ Log Cabin
+ Necktie
+ Needle Book
+ New Album
+ Pincushion and Burr
+ Paving Blocks
+ Pickle Dish
+ Rolling Pinwheel
+ Rolling Stone
+ Sashed Album
+ Shelf Chain
+ Snowflake
+ Snowball
+ Stone Wall
+ Sugar Loaf
+ Spools
+ Shield
+ Scissor's Chain
+ Square Log Cabin
+ The Railroad
+ The Disk
+ The Globe
+ The Wheel
+ Tile Patchwork
+ Watered Ribbon
+ Wind Mill
+
+Occasionally the wag of the family had his opportunity, for it took
+some one with a strain of dry humour to suggest "Old Bachelor's
+Puzzle," "Drunkard's Path," and "All Tangled Up," or to have
+ironically called one quilt a "Blind Man's Fancy."
+
+Imagination was not lacking when it came to applying apt names to some
+of the simplest designs. To have called rows of small triangles
+running diagonally across a quilt the "Wild Goose Chase," the maker
+must have known something of the habits of wild geese, for as these
+migrate from North to South and back again following the summer's
+warmth, they fly one behind the other in long V-shaped lines. The
+resemblance of these lines, swiftly moving across the sky, to her
+neat rows of triangles supplied the quilt maker with her
+inspiration.
+
+ [Illustration: WHITE QUILT
+
+ A very beautiful and original design, made in New
+ England over 125 years ago. Only part of the design has
+ been stuffed]
+
+ [Illustration: OLD LADIES QUILTING]
+
+Names that are grotesque, or fanciful, or so descriptive that their
+mention is sure to provoke a grin, occur with pleasing frequency. Who
+can help but smile at "Hairpin Catcher," "Hearts and Gizzards," or
+"Tangled Garters?" Other grotesque names worthy of mention are:
+
+ An Odd Pattern
+ Autograph Quilt
+ Boy's Nonsense
+ Brick Pile
+ Broken Dish
+ Cake Stand
+ Crazy Quilt
+ Devil's Puzzle
+ Fantastic Patch
+ Fool's Puzzle
+ No Name Quilt
+ Pullman Puzzle
+ Puzzle File
+ Robbing Peter to Pay Paul
+ State House Steps
+ Steps to the Altar
+ Swing in the Centre
+ The X quisite
+ Tick-Tack-Toe
+ Vestibule
+
+The everyday quilts, not particularly beautiful, perhaps, but
+nevertheless so essential to the family comfort, are also considered
+worthy of names. Homely and prosaic as their owners, the following
+names have a peculiar rugged quality entirely lacking in the fanciful
+ones given to their more artistic sisters:
+
+ An Old Patchwork
+ Bedtime
+ Coarse Woven Patch
+ Country Farm
+ Crib Quilt
+ Crosses and Losses
+ Economy
+ Home Treasure
+ Odds and Ends
+ Odd Patchwork
+ Old Scrap Patchwork
+ Right and Left
+ Simple Design
+ Swinging Corners
+ The Old Homestead
+ Twist and Turn
+ Twist Patchwork
+ Winding Walk
+ Workbox
+
+In the old days grown-up folks were not the only ones who had to do
+with naming the quilts; children shared in the honour, and many of the
+quaint and fantastic names were the result of humouring their fancies.
+There was no "B'rer Rabbit" in quilt lore, but he was not missed when
+the two or three youngsters who cuddled in the old-fashioned trundle
+bed could have so many other fascinating names for their quilts. "Four
+Little Birds," "Ducks and Ducklings," "Children's Delight," "The
+Little Red House," "Goose in the Pond," "The House That Jack Built,"
+"Toad in the Puddle," and "Johnny Around the Corner" are some of the
+old names still in use to-day. Any one of these patterns made up into
+a quilt was a treasure to imaginative children, and it was doubly so
+when they could pick out among the tiny blocks bits of colour that
+were once in their own gay dresses and pinafores.
+
+Clinging lavender wisteria, sweet jasmine, and even scarlet amaryllis
+pale beside the glowing colours displayed during sunny spring days on
+the gallery rails of many country homes through Delaware and Virginia.
+These picturesque scenes, in which the familiar domestic art supplies
+the essential touch of colour, are aptly described by Robert and
+Elizabeth Shackleton, those indefatigable searchers for the beautiful
+among the relics of our forefathers.
+
+"In many a little village, and in many an isolated mountain home, the
+old-time art of making patchwork coverlets is remembered and
+practised. Some may be found that are generations old; others are new,
+but made in precisely the old-time way, and after the same patterns.
+Many are in gorgeous colours, in glowing yellows, greens, and purples;
+and being a matter of housewifely pride, they are often thrown over
+the 'gallery rail' so their glory may be seen.
+
+"One guest bed had nineteen quilts! Not to sleep under such a padded
+mountain, but it was the most natural method of display. Each quilt
+had its name. There was the "Western Star," the "Rose of the
+Carolinas," the "Log Cabin," the "Virginia Gentleman," the "Fruit
+Basket," the "Lily of the Valley"--as many special names as there are
+designs."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+QUILT COLLECTIONS AND EXHIBITIONS
+
+
+In spite of their wide distribution and vast quantity, the number of
+quilts readily accessible to those who are interested in them is
+exceedingly small. This is particularly true of those quilts which
+possess artistic merit and historic interest, and a considerable
+amount of inquiry is sometimes necessary in order to bring forth even
+a single quilt of more than ordinary beauty. It is unfortunate for
+this most useful and pleasant art that its masterpieces are so shy and
+loath to display their charms, for it is mainly from the rivalry
+induced by constant display that all arts secure their best stimulus.
+However, some very remarkable achievements in quilting have been
+brought to light from time to time, to the great benefit of this best
+of household arts.
+
+There is in existence to-day no complete collection of quilts readily
+available to the public at large. No museum in this country or abroad
+has a collection worthy of the name, the nearest approach to it being
+in the great South Kensington Museum in London. While many
+institutions possess one or more specimens, these have been preserved
+more often on account of some historic association than because of
+exceptional beauty or artistic merit. It is only in the rare instance
+of a family collection, resulting from the slow accumulation by more
+than one generation of quilt enthusiasts, that a quilt collection at
+all worth while can be found. In such a case the owner is generally so
+reticent concerning his treasures that the community as a whole is
+never given the opportunity to profit by them.
+
+In families where accumulations have reached the dignity in numbers
+that will justify being called collections, the quilts belonging to
+different branches of the family have been passed along from one
+generation to another, until they have become the property of one
+person. Among collections of this sort are found many rare and
+beautiful quilts, as only the best and choicest of all that were made
+have been preserved. There are also occasional large collections of
+quilts that are the work of one industrious maker who has spent the
+greater portion of her life piecing and quilting. The Kentucky
+mountain woman who had "eighty-three, all different, and all her own
+makin'," is a typical example of this class.
+
+ [Illustration: THE "WIND-BLOWN TULIP" DESIGN
+
+ Seems to bring a breath of springtime both in form and
+ colour. Even the border flowers seem to be waving and
+ nodding in the breeze]
+
+The vastness of their numbers and the great extent of their everyday
+use serve to check the collecting of quilts. As a whole, quilts are
+extremely heterogeneous and democratic; they are made so generally
+over the whole country that no distinct types have been developed, and
+they are possessed so universally that there is little social prestige
+to be gained by owning an uncommonly large number. Consequently even
+the most ardent quilt lovers are usually satisfied when they possess
+enough for their own domestic needs, with perhaps a few extra for
+display in the guest chambers.
+
+Much of the social pleasure of the pioneer women was due to their
+widespread interest in quilts. Aside from the quilting bees, which
+were notable affairs, collecting quilt patterns was to many women a
+source of both interest and enjoyment. Even the most ambitious woman
+could not hope to make a quilt like every design which she admired,
+so, to appease the desire for the numerous ones she was unable to
+make, their patterns were collected. These collections of quilt
+patterns--often quite extensive, frequently included single blocks of
+both pieced and patched designs. There was always a neighbourly and
+friendly interest taken in such collections, as popular designs were
+exchanged and copied many times. Choice remnants of prints and
+calicoes were also shared with the neighbours. Occasionally from
+trunks or boxes, long hidden in dusty attics, some of these old blocks
+come to light, yellowed with age and frayed at the edges, to remind us
+of the simple pleasures of our grandmothers.
+
+At the present time there is a marked revival of interest in quilts
+and their making. The evidences of this revival are the increasing
+demand for competent quilters, the desire for new quilt patterns, and
+the growing popularity of quilt exhibitions. Concerning exhibits of
+quilts, there is apparent--at least in the northern part of the United
+States--a noticeable increase in popular appreciation of those held at
+county and state fairs. This is a particularly fortunate circumstance
+for the development of the art, because the county fair, "our one
+steadfast institution in a world of change," is so intimately
+connected with the lives and is so dear to the hearts of our people.
+
+ [Illustration: QUILTS ON A LINE]
+
+ [Illustration: GRAPES AND VINES]
+
+In addition to the pleasures and social diversions which that annual
+rural festival--the county fair--affords, it is an educational force
+that is not sufficiently appreciated by those who live beyond the
+reach of its spell. At best, country life contains long stretches of
+monotony, and any interest with which it can be relieved is a most
+welcome addition to the lives of the women in rural communities. At
+the fair women are touched to new thoughts on common themes. They come
+to meet each other and talk over the latest kinks in jelly making, the
+progress of their children, and similar details of their family
+affairs. They come to get standards of living and to gather ideas of
+home decoration and entertainment for the long evenings when
+intercourse, even with the neighbours, becomes infrequent.
+
+There is not the least doubt concerning the beneficial influence of
+the local annual fair on the life of the adjacent neighbourhood. At
+such a fair the presence of a varied and well-arranged display of
+needlework, which has been produced by the womenfolk, is of the
+greatest assistance in making the community one in which it is worth
+while to live. Not only does it serve as a stimulus to those who look
+forward to the fair and put into their art the very best of their
+ability in order that they may surpass their competitor next door, but
+it also serves as an inspiration to those who are denied the faculty
+of creating original designs, yet nevertheless take keen pleasure in
+the production of beautiful needlework. It is to this latter class
+that an exhibition of quilts is of real value, because it provides
+them with new patterns that can be applied to the quilts which must be
+made. With fresh ideas for their inspiration, work which would
+otherwise be tedious becomes a real pleasure.
+
+For the women of the farm the exhibit of domestic arts and products
+occupies the preeminent place at the county fair. In this exhibit the
+display of patchwork is sure to arouse the liveliest enthusiasm. A
+visitor at a fair in a western state very neatly describes this
+appreciation shown to quilts: "We used to hear a great deal about the
+sad and lonely fate of the western farmer's wife, but there was little
+evidence of loneliness in the appearance of these women who surrounded
+the quilts and fancywork in the Domestic Arts Building."
+
+In connection with the display of needlework at rural fairs, it is
+interesting to note how ancient is this custom. In the "Social History
+of Ancient Ireland" is the following description of an Irish fair held
+during the fourth century--long before the advent of St. Patrick and
+Christianity: "The people of Leinster every three years during the
+first week of August held the 'Fair of Carman.' Great ceremony and
+formality attended this event, the King of Leinster and his court
+officiating. Music formed a prominent part of the amusement. One day
+was set apart for recitation of poems and romantic tales, another for
+horse and chariot racing. In another part of the Fair people indulged
+in uproarious fun, crowded around showmen, jugglers, clowns with
+painted faces or hideously grotesqued masks. Prizes publicly presented
+by King or dignitary were given to winners of various contests.
+Needlework was represented by 'the slope of the embroidering women,'
+where women actually did their work in the presence of spectators."
+
+A very important factor in the recent revival of interest in quilts
+has been the springing up of impromptu exhibits as "benefits" for
+worthy causes, the raising of funds for which is a matter of popular
+interest. Does a church need a new roof, a hospital some more
+furnishings, or a college a new building? And have all the usual
+methods of raising money become hackneyed and uninspiring to those
+interested in furthering the project? To those confronted with such a
+money-raising problem the quilt exhibition offers a most welcome
+solution. For not only does such an exhibition offer a new form of
+entertainment, but it also has sources of interesting material from
+which to draw that are far richer than commonly supposed.
+
+Not so very long ago "The Country Contributor" undertook the task of
+giving a quilt show, and her description of it is distinctly worth
+while:
+
+"My ideas were a bit vague. I had a mental picture of some beautiful
+quilts I knew of hung against a wall somewhere for people to come and
+look at and wonder over. So we announced the quilt show and then went
+on our way rejoicing. A good-natured school board allowed us to have
+the auditorium at the high school building for the display and the
+quilt agitation began.
+
+ [Illustration: AS GOLDEN BUTTERFLIES AND PANSIES
+
+ Are so often playmates of little ones in the garden, and
+ beloved by them, they were chosen for the motifs of this
+ child's quilt]
+
+"A day or two before the show, which was to be on a Saturday, it began
+to dawn upon me that I might be buried under an avalanche of quilts.
+The old ones were terribly large. They were made to cover a fat
+feather bed or two and to hang down to hide the trundle bed
+underneath, and, though the interlining of cotton was very thin and
+even, still the weight of a quilt made by one's grandmother is
+considerable.
+
+"We betook ourselves to the school building at an early hour on
+Saturday morning and the fun began. We were to receive entries until
+one o'clock, when the exhibition was to begin.
+
+"In looking back now at this little event, I wonder we could have been
+so benighted as to imagine we could do it in a day! After about an
+hour, during which the quilts came in by the dozen, I sent in a
+general alarm to friends and kindred for help. We engaged a carpenter,
+strung up wires and ropes, and by some magic of desperation we got
+those quilts on display, 118 of them, by one o'clock.
+
+"One lovely feature of this quilt show was the reverence with which
+men brought to us the quilts their mothers made. Plain farmers, busy
+workers, retired business men, came to us, their faces softened to
+tenderness, handed us, with mingled pride and devotion, their big
+bundle containing a contribution to the display, saying in softened
+accents, 'My mother made it.' And each and every quilt brought thus
+was worthy of a price on its real merit--not for its hallowed
+association alone.
+
+"Time and space would fail if I should try to tell about the quilts
+that came in at our call for an exhibition. There were so many prize
+quilts (fully two thirds of the quilts entered deserved prizes) that
+it is difficult to say what finally decided the blue ribbon. However,
+the quilt which finally carried it away was fairly typical of those of
+the early part of the nineteenth century. A rose pattern was applied
+in coloured calicoes on each alternate block. The geometrical
+calculation, the miraculous neatness of this work, can scarcely be
+exaggerated. But this is not the wonder of the thing. The real wonder
+is the quilting. This consisted in copying the design, petal for
+petal, leaf for leaf, in needlework upon every alternate block of
+white muslin. How these workers accomplished the raised designs on
+plain white muslin is the mystery. How raised flowers, leaves, plumes,
+baskets, bunches of fruit, even animal and bird shapes, could be shown
+in bas-relief on these quilt blocks without hopelessly 'puckering'
+the material, none of us can imagine."
+
+No other inspiration that can equal our fairs has been offered to the
+quilters of our day. Public recognition of good work and the premiums
+which accompany this recognition augment the desire to excel in the
+art of quilt making. The keen competition engendered results in the
+most exact and painstaking work possible being put upon quilts that
+are entered for the "blue ribbon." The materials, designs, and colours
+chosen for these quilts are given the most careful consideration, and
+the stitchery is as nearly perfect as it is possible to make it.
+
+Some of the finest old quilts that have been preserved are repeatedly
+exhibited at county and state fairs, and have more than held their own
+with those made in recent years. One shown at an exhibition of quilts
+and coverlets, held in a city in southern Indiana in 1914, had been
+awarded the first premium at thirty-seven different fairs. This
+renowned and venerable quilt had been made more than seventy-five
+years before. Its design is the familiar one known as the "Rose of
+Sharon"; both the needlework on the design and the quilting are
+exquisite, the stitches being all but invisible.
+
+A striking instance of the influence of fairs upon quilt making is
+shown in the number of beautiful quilts that have been made expressly
+for display in exhibitions at state fairs in the Middle West. One such
+collection, worthy of special notice, consists of seven quilts: three
+of elaborate designs in patchwork and four made up of infinitesimal
+pieces. Every stitch, both on the handsome tops and in the perfect
+quilting, was wrought with careful patience by an old-time quilt
+maker. The aggregate amount of stitching upon these seven quilts seems
+enough to constitute the work of a lifetime. The material in these
+quilts, except one which is of silk, is fine white muslin and the
+reliable coloured calicoes of fifty years ago.
+
+This extraordinary and beautiful collection is now being carefully
+preserved by an appreciative daughter, who tells how it was possible
+for her mother to accomplish this great task of needlework. The maker
+was the wife of a busy and prosperous farmer of northern Indiana. As
+on all farms in that region during the pioneer days, the home was the
+centre of manufacture of those various articles necessary to the
+welfare and comfort of the family. This indulgent farmer, realizing
+that his wife's quilt making was work of a higher plane than routine
+housekeeping, employed two stout daughters of a less fortunate
+neighbour to relieve her of the heavier household duties. Such work
+that required her direct supervision, as jelly making and fruit
+canning, was done in the evenings. This allowed the ambitious little
+woman ample time to pursue her art during the bright clear hours of
+daylight.
+
+Belonging to the collections of individuals are many old quilts which
+possess more than ordinary interest, not so much on account of their
+beauty or unusual patterns, but because of their connection with some
+notable personage or historic event. The number of quilts which are
+never used, but which are most carefully treasured by their owners on
+account of some sentimental or historic association, is far greater
+than generally supposed. While most of the old quilts so jealously
+hidden in closet and linen chest have no extraordinary beauty, yet
+from time to time there comes into notice one which possesses--in
+addition to its interesting connection with the past--an exquisite
+and mellow beauty which only tasteful design enhanced by age can give.
+
+Quite often beautiful quilts are found in old trunks and bureaus,
+which have gathered dust for untold years in attics and storerooms.
+Opportunities to ransack old garrets are greatly appreciated by
+collectors, as the uncertainty of what may be found gives zest to
+their search. It was of such old treasure trove that the hangings were
+found to make what Harriet Beecher Stowe in her novel, "The Minister's
+Wooing," calls "the garret boudoir." This was a cozy little enclosure
+made by hanging up old quilts, blankets, and coverlets so as to close
+off one corner of the garret. Her description of an old quilt used in
+this connection is especially interesting. It "was a bed quilt pieced
+in tiny blocks, none of them bigger than a sixpence, containing, as
+Mrs. Katy said, pieces of the gowns of all her grandmothers, aunts,
+cousins, and female relatives for years back; and mated to it was one
+of the blankets which had served Mrs. Scudder's uncle in his bivouac
+at Valley Forge."
+
+ [Illustration: THE "SNOWFLAKE" QUILT DESIGN
+
+ Brings to one's imagination the sharp-pointed,
+ glistening snowflakes against a background of blue sky.
+ The quilting in fine stitches simulates the applied
+ pattern, and the border suggests drifts of snow as one
+ sees them after a winter's storm]
+
+To view the real impromptu exhibitions of quilts--for which, by the
+way, no admission fee is charged--one should drive along any
+country road on a bright sunny day in early spring. It is at this time
+that the household bedding is given its annual airing, and
+consequently long lines hung with quilts are frequent and interesting
+sights. During this periodical airing there becomes apparent a
+seemingly close alliance between patchwork and nature, as upon the
+soft green background of new leaves the beauty of the quilts is thrown
+into greater prominence. All the colours of the rainbow can be seen in
+the many varieties of design, for there is not a line that does not
+bear a startling "Lone Star of Texas," "Rising Sun," or some equally
+attractive pattern. Gentle breezes stir the quilts so that their
+designs and colours gain in beauty as they slowly wave to and fro.
+When the apple, cherry, and peach trees put on their new spring
+dresses of delicate blossoms and stand in graceful groups in the
+background, then the picture becomes even more charming.
+
+This periodical airing spreads from neighbour to neighbour, and as one
+sunny day follows another all the clothes lines become weighted with
+burdens of brightest hues. Of course, there is no rivalry between
+owners, or no unworthy desire to show off, yet, have you ever seen a
+line full of quilts hung wrong side out? It has been suggested that at
+an exhibition is the logical place to see quilts bloom. Yet, while it
+is a rare chance to see quilts of all kinds and in all states of
+preservation, yet it is much like massing our wild Sweet Williams,
+Spring Beauties, and Violets in a crowded greenhouse. They bravely do
+their best, but you can fairly see them gasping for the fresh, free
+air of their woodland homes. A quilt hung on a clothes line in the
+dooryard and idly flapping in the wind receives twice the appreciation
+given one which is sedately folded across a wire with many others in a
+crowded, jealous row.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+THE QUILT'S PLACE IN AMERICAN HOMES
+
+
+The dominant characteristics of quilt making are companionship and
+concentrated interest. Both of these qualities, or--better
+yet--virtues, must be in evidence in order to bring a quilt to
+successful completion. The sociable, gossipy "quilting bee," where the
+quilt is put together and quilted, has planted in every community in
+which it is an institution the seeds of numberless lifelong
+friendships. These friendships are being made over the quilting frames
+to-day just as they were in the pioneer times when a "quilting" was
+almost the only social diversion. Content with life, fixity of purpose,
+development of individuality, all are brought forth in every woman who
+plans and pieces a quilt. The reward of her work lies, not only in the
+pleasure of doing, but also in the joy of possession--which can be
+passed on even to future generations, for a well-made quilt is a
+lasting treasure.
+
+All this is quite apart from the strictly useful functions which
+quilts perform so creditably in every home, for quilts are useful as
+well as artistic. In summer nights they are the ideal emergency
+covering for the cool hour before dawn, or after a rapid drop in
+temperature, caused by a passing thunderstorm. But in the long chill
+nights of winter, when the snow sifts in through the partly raised
+window and all mankind snuggles deeper into the bed clothes, then all
+quilts may be truly said to do their duty. And right well they do it,
+too, as all those who love to linger within their cozy shelter on
+frosty December mornings will testify.
+
+ [Illustration: THE DOGWOOD QUILT
+
+ Offers another choice in flower designs. The full-grown
+ blossoms on the green background remind us of the beauty
+ of trees and flowers in early spring]
+
+As a promoter of good-will and neighbourly interest during the times
+when our new country was being settled, and woman's social intercourse
+was very limited, the "quilting bee" holds a worthy place close beside
+the meeting-house. The feeling of cooperation so noticeable in all men
+and growing communities, and which is really essential for their
+success, is aptly described in the old "Annals of Tennessee,"
+published by Dr. J. G. M. Ramsey in 1853 ("Dedicated to the surviving
+pioneers of Tennessee"):
+
+"To say of one he has no neighbours was sufficient, in those times of
+mutual wants and mutual benefactions, to make the churl infamous and
+execrable. A failure to ask a neighbour to a raising, clearing, a
+chopping frolic, or his family to a quilting, was considered a high
+indignity; such an one, too, as required to be explained or atoned for
+at the next muster or county court. Each settler was not only willing
+but desirous to contribute his share to the general comfort and public
+improvement, and felt aggrieved and insulted if the opportunity to do
+so were withheld. 'It is a poor dog that is not worth whistling for,'
+replied the indignant neighbour who was allowed to remain at home, at
+his own work, while a house raising was going on in the neighbourhood.
+'What injury have I done that I am slighted so?'"
+
+Quilts occupied a preeminent place in the rural social scheme, and the
+quilting bees were one of the few social diversions afforded outside
+of the church. Much drudgery was lightened by the joyful anticipation
+of a neighbourhood quilting bee. The preparations for such an
+important event were often quite elaborate. As a form of entertainment
+quilting bees have stood the test of time, and from colonial days down
+to the present have furnished much pleasure in country communities.
+
+In a quaint little book published in 1872 by Mrs. P. G. Gibbons, under
+the title, "Pennsylvania Dutch," is a detailed description of a
+country quilting that Mrs. Gibbons attended. The exact date of this
+social affair is not given, but judging from other closely related
+incidents mentioned by the writer, it must have taken place about
+1840, in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. The account reads as follows:
+
+"Aunt Sally had her quilt up in her landlord's east room, for her own
+was too small. However, at about eleven she called us over to dinner,
+for people who have breakfasted at five or six have an appetite at
+eleven.
+
+"We found on the table beefsteaks, boiled pork, sweet potatoes,
+'Kohl-slaw,' pickled cucumbers and red beets, apple butter and
+preserved peaches, pumpkin and apple pie, sponge cake and coffee.
+After dinner came our next neighbours, 'the maids,' Susy and Katy
+Groff, who live in single blessedness and great neatness. They wore
+pretty, clear-starched Mennonist caps, very plain. Katy is a
+sweet-looking woman and, although she is more than sixty years old,
+her forehead is almost unwrinkled, and her fine hair is still brown.
+It was late when the farmer's wife came--three o'clock; for she had
+been to Lancaster. She wore hoops and was of the 'world's people.'
+These women all spoke 'Dutch,' for the maids, whose ancestors came
+here probably one hundred and fifty years ago, do not speak English
+with fluency yet.
+
+"The first subject of conversation was the fall house-cleaning; and I
+heard mention of 'die carpett hinaus an der fence' and 'die fenshter
+und die porch,' and the exclamation, 'My goodness, es was schlimm.' I
+quilted faster than Katy Groff, who showed me her hands, and said,
+'You have not been corn husking, as I have.'
+
+"So we quilted and rolled, talked and laughed, got one quilt done, and
+put in another. The work was not fine; we laid it out by chalking
+around a small plate. Aunt Sally's desire was rather to get her
+quilting finished upon this great occasion than for us to put in a
+quantity of fine needlework. About five o'clock we were called to
+supper. I need not tell you all the particulars of this plentiful
+meal; but the stewed chicken was tender and we had coffee again.
+
+"Polly M's husband now came over the creek in the boat, to take her
+home, and he warned her against the evening dampness. The rest of us
+quilted a while by candles, and got the second quilt done at about
+seven. At this quilting there was little gossip, and less scandal. I
+displayed my new alpaca and my dyed merino and the Philadelphia bonnet
+which exposes the back of my head to the wintry blast. Polly, for her
+part, preferred a black silk sunbonnet; and so we parted, with mutual
+invitations to visit."
+
+The proverbial neatness of the ancestors of the Dutch colonists in
+America was characteristic of their homes in the new land. This is
+well illustrated in the following description of a Pennsylvania Dutch
+farmer's home, similar to the one in which the quilting above
+mentioned took place: "We keep one fire in winter. This is in the
+kitchen which, with nice housekeepers, is the abode of neatness, with
+its rag carpet and brightly polished stove. Adjoining the kitchen is a
+state apartment, also rag-carpeted, and called 'the room.' Will you go
+upstairs in a neat Dutch farmhouse? There are rag carpets again. Gay
+quilts are on the best beds, where green and red calico, perhaps in
+the form of a basket, are displayed on a white ground; or the beds
+bear brilliant coverlets of red, white, and blue, as if to 'make the
+rash gazer wipe his eyes.'"
+
+There are many things to induce women to piece quilts. The desire for
+a handsome bed furnishing, or the wish to make a gift of one to a dear
+friend, have inspired some women to make quilts. With others, quilt
+making is a recreation, a diversion, a means of occupying restless
+fingers. However, the real inducement is love of the work; because the
+desire to make a quilt exceeds all other desires. In such a case it is
+worked on persistently, laid aside reluctantly, and taken up each time
+with renewed interest and pleasure. It is this intense interest in the
+work which produces the most beautiful quilts. On quilts that are made
+because of the genuine interest in the work, the most painstaking
+efforts are put forth; the passing of time is not considered; and the
+belief of the majority of such quilt makers, though unconfessed,
+doubtless, is the equivalent of the old Arab proverb that "Slowness
+comes from God, but hurry from the devil."
+
+All women who are lonely do not live in isolated farmhouses, prairie
+shacks, or remote villages. In reality, there are more idle, listless
+hands in the hearts of crowded bustling cities than in the quiet
+country. City women, surrounded by many enticing distractions, are
+turning more and more to patchwork as a fascinating yet nerve-soothing
+occupation. Not only is there a sort of companionship between the
+maker and the quilt, but there is also the great benefit derived from
+having found a new interest in life, something worth while that can be
+built up by one's own efforts.
+
+An anecdote is told of a woman living in a quiet little New England
+village who complained of her loneliness there, where the quilting
+bees were the only saving features of an otherwise colourless
+existence. She told the interested listener that in this
+out-of-the-way hamlet she did not mind the monotony much because there
+were plenty of "quiltings," adding that she had helped that winter at
+more than twenty-five quilting bees; besides this, she had made a
+quilt for herself and also helped on some of those of her immediate
+neighbours.
+
+ [Illustration: THE WILD ROSE
+
+ That loves to grow in fragrant, tangled masses by the
+ roadside was made to march in prim rows on this child's
+ quilt]
+
+American women rarely think of quilts as being made or used outside of
+their own country. In reality quilts are made in almost every land on
+the face of the earth. Years ago, when the first New England
+missionaries were sent to the Hawaiian Islands, the native women were
+taught to piece quilts, which they continue to do down to this day.
+These Hawaiian women treasure their handiwork greatly, and some very
+old and beautiful quilts are to be found among these islands. In
+creating their patchwork they have wandered from the Puritanical
+designs of their teachers, and have intermingled with the conventional
+figures the gorgeous flowers that bloom beside their leaf-thatched,
+vine-covered huts. To these women, also, patchwork fills a place. It
+affords a means of expression for individuality and originality in the
+same way that it does for the lonely New England women and for the
+isolated mountaineers of Kentucky.
+
+Harriet Beecher Stowe, immortalized by "Uncle Tom's Cabin," produced
+other stories, not now so familiar to us as to our countrymen of the
+Civil War period, which showed an intimate knowledge of the home life
+of the American people as well as the vital questions of her day. In
+her novel entitled the "Minister's Wooing," which ran first as a
+serial in the _Atlantic Monthly_ in 1859, she describes a quilting
+supposed to have been given about the year 1800. Here we can view at
+close range a real old-fashioned quilting, and gain some insight into
+its various incidents of sociability and gossip, typical of an early
+New England seafaring village, as set forth in Mrs. Stowe's inimitable
+style:
+
+"By two o'clock a goodly company began to assemble. Mrs. Deacon
+Twitchel arrived, soft, pillowy, and plaintive as ever, accompanied by
+Cerinthy Ann, a comely damsel, tall and trim, with a bright black eye
+and a most vigorous and determined style of movement. Good Mrs. Jones,
+broad, expansive, and solid, having vegetated tranquilly on in the
+cabbage garden of the virtues since three years ago, when she graced
+our tea party, was now as well preserved as ever, and brought some
+fresh butter, a tin pail of cream, and a loaf of cake made after a new
+Philadelphia receipt. The tall, spare, angular figure of Mrs. Simeon
+Brown alone was wanting; but she patronized Mrs. Scudder no more, and
+tossed her head with a becoming pride when her name was mentioned.
+
+"The quilt pattern was gloriously drawn in oak leaves, done in indigo;
+and soon all the company, young and old, were passing busy fingers
+over it, and conversation went on briskly.
+
+"Madame de Frontignac, we must not forget to say, had entered with
+hearty abandon into the spirit of the day. She had dressed the tall
+china vases on the mantelpiece, and, departing from the usual rule of
+an equal mixture of roses and asparagus bushes, had constructed two
+quaint and graceful bouquets where garden flowers were mingled with
+drooping grasses and trailing wild vines, forming a graceful
+combination which excited the surprise of all who saw it.
+
+"'It's the very first time in my life that I ever saw grass put into a
+flower pot,' said Miss Prissy, 'but I must say it looks as handsome as
+a picture. Mary, I must say,' she added, in an aside, 'I think that
+Madame de Frontignac is the sweetest dressing and appearing creature I
+ever saw; she don't dress up nor put on airs, but she seems to see in
+a minute how things ought to go; and if it's only a bit of grass, or
+leaf, or wild vine, that she puts in her hair, why, it seems to come
+just right. I should like to make her a dress, for I know she would
+understand my fit; do speak to her, Mary, in case she should want a
+dress fitted here, to let me try it.'
+
+"At the quilting Madame de Frontignac would have her seat, and soon
+won the respect of the party by the dexterity with which she used her
+needle; though, when it was whispered that she learned to quilt among
+the nuns, some of the elderly ladies exhibited a slight uneasiness, as
+being rather doubtful whether they might not be encouraging papistical
+opinions by allowing her an equal share in the work of getting up
+their minister's bed quilt; but the younger part of the company was
+quite captivated by her foreign air and the pretty manner in which she
+lisped her English; and Cerinthy Ann even went so far as to horrify
+her mother by saying that she wished she'd been educated in a convent
+herself, a declaration which arose less from native depravity than
+from a certain vigorous disposition, which often shows itself in young
+people, to shock the current opinions of their elders and betters. Of
+course, the conversation took a general turn, somewhat in unison with
+the spirit of the occasion; and whenever it flagged, some allusion to
+a forthcoming wedding, or some sly hint at the future young Madame of
+the parish was sufficient to awaken the dormant animation of the
+company.
+
+ [Illustration: MORNING GLORY
+
+ It must be "early to bed and early to rise" for the
+ child who would see the sweet morning glory in all its
+ loveliness, as it must be found before all the dew is
+ gone]
+
+"Cerinthy Ann contrived to produce an agreeable electric shock by
+declaring that for her part she never could see into it how any girl
+could marry a minister; that she should as soon think of setting up
+housekeeping in a meeting-house.
+
+"'Oh, Cerinthy Ann!' exclaimed her mother, 'how can you go on so?'
+
+"'It's a fact,' said the adventurous damsel; 'now other men let you
+have some peace, but a minister's always round under your feet.'
+
+"'So you think the less you see of a husband, the better?' said one of
+the ladies.
+
+"'Just my views!' said Cerinthy, giving a decided snip to her thread
+with her scissors. 'I like the Nantucketers, that go off on four
+years' voyages, and leave their wives a clear field. If ever I get
+married, I'm going up to have one of those fellows.'
+
+"It is to be remarked, in passing, that Miss Cerinthy Ann was at this
+very time receiving surreptitious visits from a consumptive-looking,
+conscientious young theological candidate, who came occasionally to
+preach in the vicinity, and put up at the house of the deacon, her
+father. This good young man, being violently attacked on the doctrine
+of election by Miss Cerinthy, had been drawn on to illustrate it in a
+most practical manner, to her comprehension; and it was the
+consciousness of the weak and tottering state of the internal garrison
+that added vigour to the young lady's tones. As Mary had been the
+chosen confidante of the progress of this affair, she was quietly
+amused at the demonstration.
+
+"'You'd better take care, Cerinthy Ann,' said her mother, 'they say
+"that those who sing before breakfast will cry before supper." Girls
+talk about getting married,' she said, relapsing into a gentle
+melancholy, 'without realizing its awful responsibilities.'
+
+"'Oh, as to that,' said Cerinthy, 'I've been practising on my pudding
+now these six years, and I shouldn't be afraid to throw one up chimney
+with any girl.'
+
+"This speech was founded on a tradition, current in those times, that
+no young lady was fit to be married till she could construct a boiled
+Indian pudding of such consistency that it could be thrown up a
+chimney and come down on the ground outside without breaking; and the
+consequence of Cerinthy Ann's sally was a general laugh.
+
+"'Girls ain't what they used to be in my day,' sententiously remarked
+an elderly lady. 'I remember my mother told me when she was thirteen
+she could knit a long cotton stocking in a day.'
+
+"'I haven't much faith in these stories of old times, have you,
+girls?' said Cerinthy, appealing to the younger members at the frame.
+
+"'At any rate,' said Mrs. Twitchel, 'our minister's wife will be a
+pattern; I don't know anybody that goes beyond her either in spinning
+or fine stitching.'
+
+"Mary sat as placid and disengaged as the new moon, and listened to
+the chatter of old and young with the easy quietness of a young heart
+that has early outlived life and looks on everything in the world from
+some gentle, restful eminence far on toward a better home. She smiled
+at everybody's word, had a quick eye for everybody's wants, and was
+ready with thimble, scissors, or thread, whenever any one needed them;
+but once, when there was a pause in the conversation, she and Mrs.
+Marvyn were both discovered to have stolen away. They were seated on
+the bed in Mary's little room, with their arms around each other,
+communing in low and gentle tones.
+
+"'Mary, my dear child,' said her friend, 'this event is very pleasant
+to me, because it places you permanently near me. I did not know but
+eventually this sweet face might lead to my losing you who are in some
+respects the dearest friend I have.'
+
+"'You might be sure,' said Mary, 'I never would have married, except
+that my mother's happiness and the happiness of so good a friend
+seemed to depend on it. When we renounce self in anything we have
+reason to hope for God's blessing; and so I feel assured of a peaceful
+life in the course I have taken. You will always be as a mother to
+me,' she added, laying her head on her friend's shoulder.
+
+"'Yes,' said Mrs. Marvyn; 'and I must not let myself think a moment
+how dear it might have been to have you more my own. If you feel
+really, truly happy, if you can enter on this life without any
+misgivings----'
+
+"'I can,' said Mary firmly.
+
+"At this instant, very strangely, the string which confined a wreath
+of seashells around her glass, having been long undermined by moths,
+suddenly broke and fell down, scattering the shells upon the floor.
+
+ [Illustration: "KEEPSAKE QUILT"
+
+ The sunbonnet lassies suggest an outing or a call from
+ playmates on the morrow. These lassies may be dressed in
+ bits of the gowns of the little maid, and the quilt thus
+ become a "keepsake quilt"]
+
+"Both women started, for the string of shells had been placed there
+by James; and though neither was superstitious, this was one of those
+odd coincidences that make hearts throb.
+
+"'Dear boy!' said Mary, gathering the shells up tenderly; 'wherever he
+is, I shall never cease to love him. It makes me feel sad to see this
+come down; but it is only an accident; nothing of him will ever fall
+out of my heart.'
+
+"Mrs. Marvyn clasped Mary closer to her, with tears in her eyes.
+
+"'I'll tell you what, Mary, it must have been the moths did that,'
+said Miss Prissy, who had been standing, unobserved, at the door for a
+moment back; 'moths will eat away strings just so. Last week Miss
+Vernon's great family picture fell down because the moths eat through
+the cord; people ought to use twine or cotton string always. But I
+came to tell you that supper is all set, and the doctor out of his
+study, and all the people are wondering where you are.'
+
+"Mary and Mrs. Marvyn gave a hasty glance at themselves in the glass,
+to be assured of their good keeping, and went into the great kitchen,
+where a long table stood exhibiting all that plentitude of provision
+which the immortal description of Washington Irving has saved us the
+trouble of recapitulating in detail.
+
+"The husbands, brothers, and lovers had come in, and the scene was
+redolent of gayety. When Mary made her appearance, there was a
+moment's pause, till she was conducted to the side of the doctor;
+when, raising his hand, he invoked a grace upon the loaded board.
+
+"Unrestrained gayeties followed. Groups of young men and maidens
+chatted together, and all the gallantries of the times were enacted.
+Serious matrons commented on the cake, and told each other high and
+particular secrets in the culinary art which they drew from remote
+family archives. One might have learned in that instructive assembly
+how best to keep moths out of blankets, how to make fritters of Indian
+corn undistinguishable from oysters, how to bring up babies by hand,
+how to mend a cracked teapot, how to take out grease from a brocade,
+how to reconcile absolute decrees with free will, how to make five
+yards of cloth answer the purpose of six, and how to put down the
+Democratic party.
+
+"Miss Prissy was in her glory; every bow of her best cap was alive
+with excitement, and she presented to the eyes of the astonished
+Newport gentry an animated receipt book. Some of the information she
+communicated, indeed, was so valuable and important that she could not
+trust the air with it, but whispered the most important portions in a
+confidential tone. Among the crowd, Cerinthy Ann's theological admirer
+was observed in deeply reflective attitude; and that high-spirited
+young lady added further to his convictions of the total depravity of
+the species by vexing and discomposing him in those thousand ways in
+which a lively, ill-conditioned young woman will put to rout a
+serious, well-disposed young man, comforting herself with the
+reflection that by and by she would repent of all her sins in a lump
+together.
+
+"Vain, transitory splendours! Even this evening, so glorious, so heart
+cheering, so fruitful in instruction and amusement, could not last
+forever. Gradually the company broke up; the matrons mounted soberly
+on horseback behind their spouses, and Cerinthy consoled her clerical
+friend by giving him an opportunity to read her a lecture on the way
+home, if he found the courage to do so.
+
+"Mr. and Mrs. Marvyn and Candace wound their way soberly homeward;
+the doctor returned to his study for nightly devotions; and before
+long sleep settled down on the brown cottage.
+
+"'I'll tell you what, Cato,' said Candace, before composing herself to
+sleep, 'I can't feel it in my bones dat dis yer weddin's gwine to come
+off yit.'"
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF QUILT NAMES
+
+ARRANGED ALPHABETICALLY
+
+
+ Air Castle
+ Alabama Beauty
+ Album
+ All Tangled Up
+ Alpine Rose
+ American Log Patch
+ Apple Hexagon
+ Arabic Lattice
+ Arkansas Traveller
+ Art Square
+ Ashland Rose
+ Aunt Eliza's Star Point
+ Aunt Sukey's Patch
+ Autograph Quilt
+
+
+ Bachelor's Puzzle
+ Barrister's Blocks
+ Base Ball
+ Basket of Lilies
+ Basket Quilt
+ Bat's Wing
+ Bear's Foot
+ Bear's Paws
+ Bedtime
+ Beggar's Blocks
+ Big Dipper
+ Bird's Nest
+ Blackford's Beauty
+ Blazing Star
+ Blind Man's Fancy
+ Block Album
+ Bluebird
+ Boston Puzzle
+ Bounding Betty
+ Bouquet
+ Box Blocks
+ Boxed I's
+ Boy's Nonsense
+ Brick Pile
+ Brickwork Quilt
+ Broken Dish
+ Brown-tailed Moth
+ Brunswick Star
+ Bunnies
+ Bunnies and Baskets
+ Butterflies
+
+
+ Cactus Blossom
+ Cake Stand
+ California Oak Leaf
+ California Rose
+ California Star
+ Capital I
+ Carolina Lily
+ Carpenter's Rule
+ Carpenter's Square
+ Cats and Mice
+ Centennial
+ Charm
+ Charter Oak
+ Cherry Basket
+ Chicago Star
+ Children's Delight
+ Chimney Swallows
+ Christmas Tree
+ Chrysanthemums
+ Churn Dash
+ Circle Within Circle
+ Circuit Rider
+ Cleveland Lilies
+ Cluster of Stars
+ Coarse Woven Patch
+ Cockscomb
+ Cog Wheel
+ Columbian Puzzle
+ Columbia Star
+ Combination Star
+ Compass
+ Complex Rose
+ Confederate Rose
+ Continental
+ Corn and Beans
+ Cottage Tulip
+ Country Farm
+ Coxey's Camp
+ Crazy Ann
+ Crazy Quilt
+ Crib Quilt
+ Cross, The
+ Cross and Crown
+ Crosses and Losses
+ Crosses and Stars
+ Crossed Canoes
+ Cross Roads to Texas
+ Cross Within Cross
+ Crow's Foot
+ Cube Lattice
+ Cube Work
+ Cypress Leaf
+
+
+ Daffodils and Butterflies
+ Daisies
+ Democrat Rose
+ Devil's Claws
+ Devil's Puzzle
+ Diagonal Log Chain
+ Diamond, The
+ Diamond Cube
+ Diamond Design
+ Diamonds
+ Diamond Star
+ Disk, The
+ Dogwood
+ Domino
+ Domino and Square
+ Double Irish Chain
+ Double Peony
+ Double Squares
+ Double Wrench
+ Double X, No. 1
+ Double X, No. 2
+ Double X, No. 3
+ Double X, No. 4
+ Double Z
+ Dove in the Window
+ Dutchman's Puzzle
+ Dutch Rose
+ Drunkard's Patchwork
+ Drunkard's Path
+ Ducks and Ducklings
+
+
+ Ecclesiastical
+ Economy
+ Eight Hands Around
+ Eight-point Design
+ Eight-pointed Star
+ Enigma
+ Evening Star
+ Everybody's Favourite
+
+
+ Fan
+ Fan and Rainbow
+ Fan Patch
+ Fanny's Fan
+ Fantastic Patch
+ Feather Star
+ Ferris Wheel
+ Field Daisies
+ Five-pointed Star
+ Five Stripes
+ Fleur-de-Lis
+ Flower Basket
+ Flower Pot
+ Flutter Wheel
+ Flying Bat
+ Flying Star
+ Fool's Puzzle
+ Fool's Square
+ Forbidden Fruit Tree
+ Forest Pattern
+ Four E's
+ Four Frogs Quilt
+ Four Little Birds
+ Four Points
+ Four Stars Patch
+ Four X Star
+ French Basket
+ Friendship Quilt
+ Fruit Basket
+
+
+ Garden of Eden
+ Garfield's Monument
+ Gentleman's Fancy
+ Georgetown Circle
+ Girl's Joy
+ Globe, The
+ Golden Gates
+ Goose in the Pond
+ Goose Tracks
+ Gourd Vine
+ Grandmother's Choice
+ Grandmother's Dream
+ Grandmother's Own
+ Grape Basket
+ Grapes and Vines
+ Grecian Design
+ Greek Cross
+ Greek Square
+
+
+ Hairpin Catcher
+ Hand, The
+ Hands All Around
+ Handy Andy
+ Harrison Rose
+ Harvest Rose
+ Hearts and Gizzards
+ Hen and Chickens
+ Hexagonal
+ Hickory Leaf
+ Hobson's Kiss
+ Home Treasure
+ Honeycomb
+ Honeycomb Patch
+ Hour Glass
+ House That Jack Built
+
+
+ Ice Cream Bowl
+ Imperial Tea
+ Indiana Wreath
+ Indian Hatchet
+ Indian Plumes
+ Interlaced Blocks
+ Iris
+ Irish Puzzle
+
+
+ Jack's House
+ Jacob's Ladder
+ Job's Tears
+ Johnny Around the Corner
+ Joining Star
+ Jonquils
+ Joseph's Coat
+ Joseph's Necktie
+
+
+ Kansas Troubles
+ King's Crown
+ King's Crows
+
+
+ Ladies' Beautiful Star
+ Ladies' Delight
+ Ladies' Wreath
+ Lady Fingers
+ Lady of the Lake
+ Leap Frog
+ Letter H
+ Letter X
+ Lily of the Valley
+ Lily Quilt Pattern
+ Lincoln's Platform
+ Linton
+ Little Beech Tree
+ Little Red House, The
+ Live Oak Tree
+ Lobster, The
+ Log Cabin
+ Log Patch
+ London Roads
+ Love Rose
+ Lover's Links
+
+
+ Magic Circle
+ Maltese Cross, No. 1
+ Maltese Cross, No. 2
+ Maple Leaf
+ Mary's Garden
+ May Berry Leaf
+ Mayflower, The
+ Memory Blocks
+ Memory Circle
+ Mexican Rose
+ Missouri Beauty
+ Mollie's Choice
+ Moon and Stars
+ Morning Glory
+ Morning Glory Wreath
+ Morning Star
+ Mosaic (More than 25)
+ Mother's Fancy
+ Mrs. Cleveland's Choice
+ Mrs. Morgan's Choice
+
+
+ Needle Book
+ Necktie
+ New Album
+ New Four Patch
+ Nine Patch
+ New Star
+ No Name Quilt
+ None Such
+ Novel Star
+
+
+ Oak Leaf and Acorns
+ Oak Leaf and Tulip
+ Ocean Waves
+ Octagon
+ Octagon File
+ Odd Fellows' Chain
+ Odd Patchwork
+ Odd Pattern, An
+ Odds and Ends
+ Odd Star
+ Ohio Beauty
+ Oklahoma Boomer
+ Old Homestead, The
+ Old Maid's Puzzle
+ Old Patchwork, An
+ Old Scrap Patchwork
+ Old Bachelor's Puzzle
+ Old Tippecanoe
+ Olive Branch
+ Orange Peel
+
+
+ Paving Blocks
+ Pansies and Butterflies
+ Peacocks and Flowers
+ Peony Block
+ Persian Palm Lily
+ Philadelphia Beauty
+ Philadelphia Pavement
+ Philippines, The
+ Pickle Dish
+ Pilgrim's Pride
+ Pincushion
+ Pincushion and Burr
+ Pineapple Patterns (3 in number)
+ Pine Tree
+ Pinwheel Square
+ Poinsettia
+ Poppy
+ Prairie Rose
+ Premium Star
+ President's Quilt
+ Princess Feather
+ Priscilla, The
+ Pullman Puzzle
+ Puss-in-the-Corner
+ Puzzle File
+ Pyrotechnics
+
+
+ Quartette, The
+
+
+ Radical Rose
+ Railroad, The
+ Rainbow
+ Red Cross
+ Ribbon Squares
+ Ribbon Star
+ Right and Left
+ Rising Sun
+ Road to California
+ Robbing Peter to Pay Paul
+ Rockingham's Beauty
+ Rocky Glen
+ Rocky Road to California
+ Rocky Road to Kansas
+ Rolling Pinwheel
+ Rolling Star
+ Rolling Stone
+ Roman Cross
+ Roman Stripe
+ Rose
+ Rose Album
+ Rose and Feather
+ Rosebud and Leaves
+ Rose of Dixie
+ Rose of LeMoine
+ Rose of St. Louis
+ Rose of the Carolinas
+ Rose of Sharon
+ Rose Sprig
+ Royal, The
+ Royal Japanese Vase
+
+
+ Sarah's Favourite
+ Sashed Album
+ Sashed Star
+ Sawtooth Patchwork
+ Scissor's Chain
+ Seven Stars
+ Shelf Chain
+ Shield
+ Shoo Fly
+ Shooting Star
+ Simple Design
+ Single Sunflowers
+ Sister's Choice
+ Snail's Trail, The
+ Snowball
+ Snowflake
+ Solomon's Temple
+ Solomon's Crown
+ Spider's Den
+ Spider's Web
+ Spools
+ Square and a Half
+ Square and Swallow
+ Square and Triangle
+ Square Log Cabin
+ Squares and Stars
+ Squares and Stripes
+ Star, A
+ Star and Chains
+ Star and Cross
+ Star and Cubes
+ Star and Squares
+ Star of Bethlehem
+ Star of Many Points
+ Star of Texas
+ Star of the East
+ Star Lane
+ Star Puzzle
+ Star-Spangled Banner
+ Stars upon Stars
+ State House Steps
+ Steps to the Altar
+ St. Louis Star
+ Stone Wall
+ Storm at Sea
+ Strawberry
+ Stripe Squares
+ Sugar Loaf
+ Sunbonnet Lassies
+ Sunburst
+ Sunflowers
+ Sunshine
+ Swarm of Bees
+ Sweet Gum Leaf
+ Swinging Corners
+ Swing in the Centre
+
+
+ Tangled Garter
+ Tassel Plant
+ Tea Leaf
+ Temperance Tree
+ Texas Flower
+ Texas Tears
+ Three-flowered Sunflower
+ Tick-Tack-Toe
+ Tile Patchwork
+ Toad in the Puddle
+ Tree of Paradise
+ Triangular Triangle
+ Triangle Puzzle
+ True Lover's Knot
+ Tufted Cherry
+ Tulip Blocks
+ Tulip in Vase
+ Tulip Lady Finger
+ Tulip Tree Leaves
+ Tumbler, The
+ Twin Sisters
+ Twinkling Star
+ Twist and Turn
+ Twist Patchwork
+ Two Doves, The
+
+
+ Union
+ Union Calico Quilt
+ Union Star
+ Unknown Star
+
+
+ Valentine Quilt
+ Variegated Diamonds
+ Variegated Hexagons
+ Venetian Design
+ Vestibule
+ Vice-President's Quilt
+ Village Church
+ Virginia Gentleman
+
+
+ Washington's Puzzle
+ Washington's Plumes
+ Washington's Sidewalk
+ Watered Ribbon
+ Way of the World
+ Wedding Knot
+ Western Star
+ W. C. T. Union
+ Wheel, The
+ Wheel and Star
+ Wheel of Fortune
+ Whig Pattern
+ Whig Rose
+ White Day Lily
+ Widower's Choice
+ Wild Goose Chase
+ Wild Rose
+ Wind-blown Tulips
+ Winding Walk
+ Wind Mill
+ Wonder of the World
+ Workbox
+ World's Fair, The
+ World's Fair Blocks
+ World's Fair Puzzle
+ Wreath of Roses
+
+
+ X quisite, The
+
+
+ Yankee Puzzle
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF REFERENCES
+
+
+ THE CAROLINA MOUNTAINS. _Margaret M. Morley._
+
+ THE MINISTER'S WOOING. _Harriet Beecher Stowe._
+
+ AUNT JANE IN KENTUCKY. _Hall._
+
+ COLONIAL DAYS AND WAYS. _Helen Evesten Smith._
+
+ THE STORY OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK. _Charles Burr Todd,
+ 1888._
+
+ THE SOCIAL HISTORY OF FLATBUSH. _Gertrude Lefferts
+ Vanderbilt, 1882._
+
+ SOCIAL HISTORY OF ANCIENT IRELAND. _P. W. Joyce._
+
+ CHATS ON OLD LACE AND NEEDLEWORK. _Mrs. Lowes._
+
+ THE CRUSADES. _Archer and Kingsford._
+
+ THE LURE OF THE ANTIQUE. _Walter A. Dyer._
+
+ ART IN NEEDLEWORK. _Lewis F. Day and Mary Buckle._
+
+ HOME LIFE IN COLONIAL DAYS. _Alice Morse Earle._
+
+ CUSTOMS AND FASHIONS IN OLD NEW ENGLAND. _Alice Morse
+ Earle._
+
+ PENNSYLVANIA DUTCH. _Mrs. P. E. Gibbon._
+
+ ON EDUCATION. _John Locke, 1632-1704._
+
+ OLD EMBROIDERIES. _Alan S. Cole in Home Needlework
+ Magazine, 1900-1901._
+
+ THE ANNALS OF TENNESSEE. _J. G. M. Ramsey, A. M., M. D.,
+ 1853._
+
+ WOMAN'S HANDIWORK IN MODERN HOMES. _Constance Cary
+ Harrison, 1881._
+
+ PEASANT ART IN SWEDEN, IRELAND, AND LAPLAND. _Edited by
+ Charles Holmes._
+
+ FIRST STEPS IN COLLECTING. _Grace M. Vallois._
+
+ NEEDLEWORK. _Elizabeth Glaister._
+
+ EMBROIDERY AND TAPESTRY WEAVING. _Mrs. A. H. Christie._
+
+ THE ART OF NEEDLEWORK. _Edited by Countess Wilton._
+
+ ENGLISH SECULAR EMBROIDERY. _M. Jourdain._
+
+ THE ANCIENT EGYPTIANS. _Sir. J. Gardner Wilkinson,
+ D. C. L., F. R. S._
+
+ DE BELLO JUDAICO. _Flavius Josephus._
+
+ TURKEY OF THE OTTOMAN. _L. M. Garnett._
+
+ HISTOIRE DE L'ART DANS L'ANTIQUITE. _Perrot and
+ Chipiex._
+
+ ARTS AND CRAFTS IN THE MIDDLE AGES. _Julia de Wolf
+ Addison._
+
+ SACO VALLEY FAMILIES. _Ridlon._
+
+
+
+
+ * * * * * *
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note
+
+Minor punctuation errors have been corrected without note.
+
+This book contains some archaic spelling and dialect; all instances
+have been kept as printed.
+
+Hyphenation has been made consistent as follows:
+
+ Page vii--Bed-time amended to Bedtime
+ Page 125--Puss in the Corner amended to Puss-in-the-Corner
+ Page 144--oldtime amended to old-time
+
+The following amendments have been made:
+
+ Page 5--Gerdin amended to Gardner--"Sir J. Gardner
+ Wilkinson, in his history ..."
+
+ Page 7--Judaics amended to Judaico--"In "De Bello Judaico,"
+ by Flavius Josephus, ..."
+
+ Page 8--Historic amended to Histoire--"... in their "Histoire
+ de l'Art dans l'Antiquite", publish ..."
+
+ Page 18--Phoenecians amended to Phoenicians--"... in Biblical
+ times by the Hebrews and Phoenicians."
+
+ Page 95--Eor amended to For--"For those who enjoy making
+ pieced quilts ..."
+
+ Page 131--amarylis amended to amaryllis--"... and even
+ scarlet amaryllis pale beside the glowing colours ..."
+
+ Page 143--excell amended to excel--"... the desire to
+ excel in the art of quilt making."
+
+ Page 174--repeated instance of St. Louis Star deleted.
+
+ Page 177--MOUNTAINA amended to MOUNTAINS--"THE CAROLINA
+ MOUNTAINS."
+
+ Page 177--M. amended to F., and AND amended to IN--"ART
+ IN NEEDLEWORK. _Lewis F. Day and Mary Buckle._"
+
+ Page 177--Alam amended to Alan--"_Alan S. Cole in ..._"
+
+ Page 178--S. C. L. amended to D. C. L.--"_Sir J. Gardner
+ Wilkinson, D. C. L., F. R. S._"
+
+ Page 178--JUDAICS amended to JUDAICO--"DE BELLO JUDAICO."
+
+ Page 178--DAMS amended to DANS--"HISTOIRE DE L'ART DANS
+ L'ANTIQUITE."
+
+The following amendments have been made in the list of quilt names at
+the end of the text, for consistency with the main text:
+
+ Aunt Eliza's Star Quilt amended to Aunt Eliza's Star Point (p. 169)
+ Baseball amended to Base Ball (p. 169)
+ Blindman's Fancy amended to Blind Man's Fancy (p. 169)
+ Cogwheels amended to Cog Wheel (p. 170)
+ Double Square amended to Double Squares (p. 171)
+ Duck and Ducklings amended to Ducks and Ducklings (p. 171)
+ Fleur de Lis amended to Fleur-de-Lis (p. 171)
+ French Baskets amended to French Basket (p. 171)
+ Hair Pin Catcher amended to Hairpin Catcher (p. 172)
+ Indian Plums amended to Indian Plumes (p. 172)
+ Needlebook amended to Needle Book (p. 173)
+ Road to Oklahoma amended to Road to California (p. 174)
+ Washington Puzzle amended to Washington's Puzzle (p. 176)
+ Windmill amended to Wind Mill (p. 176)
+ Xquisite, The amended to X quisite, The (p. 176)
+
+Please note that not all of the quilt patterns mentioned in the main
+text are included in the list.
+
+The single oe ligature (in the word Phoenicians) has not been retained
+in this version.
+
+Illustrations have been moved slightly where necessary so that they
+were not in the middle of a paragraph. The frontispiece illustration
+has been moved to follow the title page.
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK QUILTS***
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