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diff --git a/24671.txt b/24671.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..03379a9 --- /dev/null +++ b/24671.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1445 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Making a Garden of Perennials, by W. C. Egan + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Making a Garden of Perennials + +Author: W. C. Egan + +Release Date: February 22, 2008 [EBook #24671] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKING A GARDEN OF PERENNIALS *** + + + + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/American +Libraries.) + + + + + + +MAKING A GARDEN OF PERENNIALS + + +_THE HOUSE & GARDEN "MAKING" BOOKS_ + + +It is the intention of the publishers to make this series of little +volumes, of which _Making a Garden of Perennials_ is one, a complete +library of authoritative and well illustrated handbooks dealing with +the activities of the home-maker and amateur gardener. Text, pictures +and diagrams will, in each respective book, aim to make perfectly clear +the possibility of having, and the means of having, some of the more +important features of a modern country or suburban home. Among the +titles already issued or planned for early publication are the +following: _Making a Rose Garden; Making a Lawn; Making a Tennis Court; +Making a Fireplace; Making Paths and Driveways; Making a Rock Garden; +Making a Garden with Hotbed and Coldframe; Making Built-in Bookcases, +Shelves and Seats; Making a Garden to Bloom This Year; Making a Water +Garden; Making a Poultry House; Making the Grounds Attractive with +Shrubbery; Making a Naturalized Bulb Garden_; with others to be +announced later. + + +[Illustration: To be really satisfying the flower garden must have that +air of permanence that is given it by the perennials] + + + + +Making a Garden of Perennials + + + +_By_ W. C. EGAN + + + +NEW YORK +McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY +1912 + +Copyright, 1912, by +McBRIDE, NAST & CO. + +Published June, 1912 + + + + +CONTENTS + + + Page + +INTRODUCTION 1 + +PREPARING THE BEDS 7 + +WINTER MULCHING 20 + +SUMMER MULCHING 23 + +PLANT COMBINATIONS 30 + +WEEDING 34 + +LISTS OF DEPENDABLE PERENNIALS: + + OF GENERAL EXCELLENCE 36 + + FOR SHADY POSITIONS 49 + + FOR DRY SOILS 50 + + FOR WET SOILS 51 + + ALPINES, OR ROCK PLANTS 51 + + + + +THE ILLUSTRATIONS + + +A GARDEN OF PERENNIALS _Frontispiece_ + + Facing Page + +A COLONY OF GERMAN IRIS 4 + +SWEET ROCKET AGAINST A FOLIAGE BACKGROUND 12 + +PEONIES 24 + +CANTERBURY BELLS AND FOXGLOVE 30 + +_ANEMONE JAPONICA_ 38 + +_PHLOX PANICULATA_ 46 + +SWAMP MALLOW, GAILLARDIA AND _CAMPANULA PERSICIFOLIA_ 50 + + + + +MAKING A GARDEN OF PERENNIALS + + + + +INTRODUCTION + + +The successful garden has a permanent basis. There must be some flowers +that appear year after year, whose position is fixed and whose +appearance can be counted on. The group classed as perennials occupies +this position and about flowers of this class is arranged all the +various array of annuals and bulbs. These last act as reinforcements in +rounding out the garden scheme. + +Perennials are plants that live on year after year if the conditions +surrounding them are congenial. + +Trees and shrubs are perennials, of course; in these the stems are +woody, but we are considering only those known as herbaceous +perennials, having stems of a more or less soft texture that, with the +exception of a few evergreen species, die back each fall, new ones +appearing the following spring. + +Quite a number of them are too tender to be generally grown as hardy +perennials, but those that bloom freely the first year--like the +snapdragon--are treated as annuals, discarding them when the season is +ended. + +Some biennials--those that do not bloom until the second year, and then +die--may be placed among the perennials and considered of their class, +because they seed so freely at the base of the parent plant and bloom +the following year, that their presence in the border is nearly always +assured. The only thing necessary to do is to transplant those not in +the situation you desire them to bloom in. _Rudbeckia triloba_, one of +the Black-eyed Susan type, is not only a good example of this class, +but a charming plant that all should grow, and, moreover, it is a very +accommodating one, doing splendidly in semi-shady places, such as north +of buildings or under weeping trees like the rose-flowered Japanese +weeping cherry. It is at home in full sunshine where it will form a +broadly rounded, bushy plant about three feet in diameter and, when in +full bloom, with its myriad of black-eyed flowers, it can dispel the +worst case of melancholia a dyspeptic ever enjoyed. It requires a good +open, rather light soil to do itself justice. If lifted when in full +bloom, put into a ten-inch pot, well soaked at the roots, and set aside +for a few hours away from sun and wind, it will last for two weeks as a +porch or house plant. + +We hear a good deal about the gardens of our grandmothers, perennial +gardens, in which the plants outlived the flagstones at the house door. + +With a few exceptions, perennials are not long-lived. The gas plant, +peonies, some of the iris, day lilies, and a few others, seem +permanent. + +The usual run require to be taken up about every two or three years and +divided. There are two reasons for this. In the first place, the roots +have exhausted all the food within reach and, again, the main crown, +from which spring the blooming shoots, dies from exhaustion. At the +outer edge of this decay is generally a fringe of "live matter" which, +if taken up, separate from the decayed center, divided, and reset in +good soil, will rejuvenate itself, and soon form a new plant. + +In unfavorable sections the Texas gaillardia will lose its crown during +winter, and the anxious novice watches impatiently in the spring for +its reappearance, and finally digs it up only to find that while the +crown is decayed the roots are alive, and here and there, on these, new +plant buds are forming which, if not disturbed, would soon make good +plants, probably not placed, however, just where wanted. Nurserymen +often avail themselves of this peculiarity and increase their stock by +taking up a plant, cutting the roots into small sections, and growing +them separately. + +[Illustration: The German iris is one of the most beautiful forms in +the flower world and it will flourish in practically any moderately +good soil] + +We must remember that nine-tenths of the plants we grow are +exotic--natives of distant parts and climes--coming from various +atmospheric conditions, and from all kinds of soil. We bring them into +our garden and grow them all under one climatic influence and in the +one kind of soil we happen to possess. Certainly we cannot expect +uniform success with all of them. You might as well bring into one room +unlettered natives of distant climes and expect them all to enter into +a general conversation. Even in gardens quite near each other, their +permanence varies. I cannot grow, successfully, any of the boltonias, +while within a quarter of a mile of me, in a friend's garden, they grow +like weeds. Our soil is the same, and one would suppose that the +climatic conditions were, still the fact remains. I merely mention this +so that any novice finding that he cannot grow some plants as well as +others near him, may not feel lonesome in his grief. It is, however, a +good plan, when a plant supposedly easy to grow, fails to materialize, +to try it in another part of your own garden, and if it does not do +well there, discard and forget it--the world is full of good things. + +Due to the fact of the perennial's habit of annual recurrence the +cultural directions are different from the flowers of but a season's +bloom. There are some vital fundamentals that every gardener should +know and some short cuts to success that every one may know. Since +perennials, then, form the very kernel of the garden these are things +of first importance in the growing of flowers and will be here +elaborated sufficiently to give the reader an impetus that will carry +him at a bound into the inner circle of the garden mysteries. + + + + +PREPARING THE BEDS + + +Do we want a successful flower bed--one that our neighbors will +envy--or one in which the plants are struggling to exist? If we want +the former--and who does not?--we must give our plants good pasturage. +They are as fond of the fat of the land as we are, and, since they +gladden our hearts with their radiant blooms, we should treat them +fairly. And how? By giving them a good, deep soil for their root-run, +not only rich in food, but loose and friable. + +Most all virgin soils contain ample plant food, but the deeper part +lacks the result of the action of air, sun and frost, and the natural +humus of decayed leaves and grasses. The plant food it contains is +"uncooked"--that is, not ready for plant assimilation. Therefore, the +beds to contain your perennials should be dug at least two feet +deep--three is better--and good garden soil, or soil from a corn-field +or any hoed crop where the weeds have been kept down, used to +supplement all but the top layer one foot in depth. All of this applies +to tree and shrub holes also. This top layer of one foot in depth is +apt to be in fair condition for immediate use and may be applied in the +bottom of the bed, mixed with either fresh or rotted manure. The soil +brought in may be mixed with old manure and placed on top. + +A word about "old manure" is opportune here. Any manure that has been +piled up for a year or more in a weed-infested corner and used on your +grounds, especially on your lawn, is the best promoter of exercise I +know of, and can keep you busy all summer dislodging the weeds that +spring from the seed its bosom protected. + +Of course, in a few sections where the soil is three feet deep--as I am +told it is in the Illinois corn belt--all that is needed is to loosen +up the soil to the depth mentioned, and add old manure. If the removal +and bringing in of so much new soil is too harsh on the pocketbook we +must proceed in a more economical way. If the soil is clayey in +texture, mix with it sifted coal ashes or sand, and the coarser part of +the ashes may be incorporated with the soil in the lower foot of bed. +Remove the top one-foot layer, and set it aside; throw out the bottom +soil to the remaining depth. Break it up finely and, in replacing it, +besides the coal ashes or sand, add fresh strong manure, placing it in +horizontal layers--say three inches of soil, and then a layer of manure +four inches thick, when gently tamped down; or make the layers +slantingly--say at an angle of about forty-five degrees. This will add +humus to the soil, and allow air and moisture to penetrate it. Then put +in the original top layer, mixing it with old manure. No fresh manure +should touch the root of a plant. The fresh manure at the bottom of the +bed will be well rotted by the time the roots reach it. After the top +layer is put on you will find the bed raised up six to eight inches +above the lawn, which is all right; it will settle enough in time. At +all times break up the soil into fine particles, otherwise a lump of +clay will remain a lump, and is of little value for plant use. + +In making beds or shrub holes close to buildings having a cellar, one +generally has to remove entirely all the soil, as that present usually +consists of the deeper soil from the cellar excavation, mixed with +bricks and mortar--few flowers root well in brick. + +Place your flower beds along the walks, at the house, or along the lot +lines, but do not clutter the center of your lawn with them. An open +grass plot adds apparent size and dignity to any place. Give as much +open sunlight as possible. Only early spring bloomers, like the +hepaticas and trilliums, grow in what we call shade--though at the time +of their growth and bloom they have the sunlight through the leafless +tree branches. Do not make a bed where the drainage is bad or where +water will stand in it during the winter. Tile draining will improve +the bed under almost any circumstances. + +Keep away from large trees. A vigorous elm, and a perennial cannot eat +and drink out of the same dish and both grow fat. The perennial will be +the one to suffer, mostly from lack of moisture. If you have planted +near a tree or lack of space compels you to do so, take a sharp spade +and, each spring, cut deeply all along the edge of the flower bed +nearest the tree, and pull out from the bed all the small roots you can +without disturbing the plants. This will help it for a time, but the +elm will invade the bed again and the operation must be repeated. This +applies to beds within eight or ten feet of a tree. For any bed much +nearer, the cutting would be apt to injure the tree, and the growth in +the bed would be a poor one. + +Where the grounds are large and there is ample room for large beds at +the borders, with an open lawn in front, flowering shrubs may be used +as a background for perennials, but the growth of the shrubs requires +frequent removals of the perennials further forward, and a frequent +renewal of the plant food which the shrub is sharing. This method +requires more watering on account of the double duty required of the +soil. + +Avoid fancy or geometrical shapes. They belong, when allowable, to +formal gardens where tender bedding plants are used. Along walks, +rectangular beds may be made, but against buildings or boundary lines, +while the rear line may be comparatively straight, the front should be +undulating, having long sweeping bays and promontories. No short curves +should exist. They interfere with the lawn-mower. When it is desirable +to face a boundary border with a walk, then, of course, the front line +of a bed should be straight. + +[Illustration: A background of vines or flowering shrubs is worth +striving for, especially to set off white flowers like sweet rocket] + +Some perennials require to be planted two feet apart, and in some, like +peonies, three feet is close enough, for in time their tops will meet. +Eighteen inches apart is enough to allow for the majority and some +slender ones require but one foot. All this should be taken into +consideration when determining the width of the bed. + +Starting with the proposition that the average plant requires eighteen +inches headroom, and that the first row may be planted six inches +within the bed at the front--nine to twelve is better--and the second +one back eighteen inches, and six from the back, we find that with rows +two plants deep it requires a bed two feet and a half in width. This +should be the narrowest allowance you should make. In a four-foot bed +you can place them three deep, and one five and a half takes four +plants. In other words, you increase your width in jumps of eighteen +inches at a time. While this is not actually necessary, it is best and +applies only to the widest and narrowest points. The intervening curved +lines will vary from this measurement but it makes no difference, +because you do not plant in straight rows from back to front as one +would cabbages. + +In planting at boundary lines or at buildings, the taller ones should +be used at the back, but the semi-tall ones--say three feet in +height--should occasionally be brought well toward the front in order +to avoid stiffness and to add irregularity to the general effect. If a +house or fence is at the back, flowering vines like the _Clematis +paniculata_, or _C. flammula_, or any annual flowering vine, may be +used here and there. In detached beds which may be seen from all sides, +the taller plants are set in the middle. + +The effect is much better if you plant in groups of four, six, or more +of one kind. It relieves the effect of spottiness. Plant in an +irregular manner so as to avoid stiffness or lumpiness, and let one +group run in behind another. If you plant large groups in a pear-shaped +form with the narrow stem end slightly curved and let the larger end of +the adjoining pear-shaped group run up to the narrow stem of its +neighbor, you will produce the effect I suggest. The plants you buy, +being small, if planted as suggested will not occupy all the ground the +first year. These spaces may be carpeted with annuals for a year or so, +or planted with gladioli, lilies or _Hyacinth candicans_. + +I will not attempt to discuss the fighting and clashing of colors +sometimes seen in plantings. The acknowledged head of the house--she +who is probably the one who desires the flower border--is generally an +authority on pleasing color combinations. + +Securely staking tall-growing plants is necessary if one desires +neatness and effectiveness in the garden. We care for a plant twelve +months in the year for the benefit we derive from its short season of +bloom, and to allow it, then, to be sprawled upon the ground by passing +storms seems cruel. Broom handles and ash rods, half an inch in +diameter, used by basket makers, may be obtained from dealers in broom +material. Bamboo canes are useful, as well as the painted stakes sold +by seed houses. The stakes should be forced well down into the soil. +Often, in dry weather when the ground is hard, they are not driven down +far enough and the first hard rain softens the soil around them, and, +if a strong wind exists, the plant may topple over and carry the stake +with it. In tying them don't hug them as you would a long-lost brother; +give them some natural freedom. In large groups, place the stakes +around them, three or four feet apart, and string from stake to stake, +running cross strings through the plants or between them. A single +large plant generally requires at least three stakes. Do it before they +are broken down by storms, for once broken it is hard to make a good +job of it, especially if left down for some time. Then the growing ends +turn up for light and harden in that bent condition. + +If you raise the perennials yourself it is best to grow them one year +in a reserve bed, say in the vegetable garden, because but very few +will bloom the first year from seed. Purchased plants should have +blossoms the first year, as they are supposed to be one-year-old +seedlings or are divisions of old plants. These may be set out in the +first position upon arrival. Seedlings in the reserve bed may be +planted in rows, each row a foot apart, and the plants six inches apart +in the rows; thus planted, they take up but little room and in the +early fall or next spring they may be removed to their permanent +quarters. + +In transplanting, be sure to expose the roots as little as possible to +the sun or drying winds. When plants arrive with the started foliage +looking wilted, sprinkle them overhead and set them in a shady +sheltered position for a while--say an hour. This will generally revive +them enough to go on with your planting. If you have reason to suppose +the plants were frosted in transit, set the box in a cool cellar over +night. A gradual thawing out may rejuvenate them, while a sudden +thawing is dangerous. + +In planting, it often helps an amateur to take a few stakes and place +one at each point he desires to set a plant. If you set six or more +stakes, plant six or more plants, pulling up the stakes as you proceed +to set out more. Make the holes in the bed wide enough to allow the +roots to go in without crowding, and after filling in the soil, press +it down firmly around the neck of the plant, and over the roots, and +water well when all the bed is planted. + +When dry, hot weather comes, and you think artificial watering +necessary, soak the bed well and then let it alone for some time, +although, in the evening, after a hot sunny day accompanied by a +strong, drying wind, if the foliage looks wilted somewhat, a showering +overhead is beneficial. The day after a good soaking it is well to go +lightly over the bed with a hoe or rake and stir up the soil, breaking +the crust produced by the watering. This makes a mulch that will +conserve the moisture and protect the roots from the hot sun. Frequent +slight waterings keep the moisture at the top and the roots are then +inclined to grow upwards to meet it. If you then neglect to water, the +soil soon becomes dry and the roots suffer. + + + + +WINTER MULCHING + + +When winter approaches, if you desire tidiness, cut the tops down +(except evergreen-foliaged plants) even if the frost has not already +done this work for you, and cover the bed with well-rotted manure, but +it is really better to allow the tops to remain all winter, especially +in the case of hollow-stemmed plants. Well-decayed manure needs but +little going over in the spring, requiring only the removal of the +foreign material and the straw chaff it may contain. What remains is +generally the color of the soil, thus unnoticeable and acts as a mulch +during the summer. Fresh manure may be used--in fact it is better, +because the plants receive the benefit of the leachings, which is +pretty well spent in old manure. In large grounds there is, however, +considerable labor attached to the removal of this fertilizer in the +spring, as it must be taken away for neatness' sake. While this manure +has the greater part of its strength leached out, it is well worth +saving for the humus still in it, and it may be dug in in the vegetable +garden, or placed in a large flat pile about two feet high while still +loosely spread. Melons, squash, pumpkins or similar sprawling vines may +be grown in it. For each plant dump about one-half a wheelbarrow of +good soil on the top, level and sow in it, or set out plants, if the +seedlings are started elsewhere. The roots of these plants like the +loose run the open manure allows. In extreme dry weather the growing +squash or pumpkins should be well watered. In the fall this manure has +become fine in texture and makes a splendid winter's mulch for +snowdrops, crocus, etc. + +Do not be in a hurry about removing the winter's covering when the +first warm days of spring appear. More damage is done in early spring +than in settled cold weather. It is the alternate freezing and thawing +that does the most damage, and the surface water lying over the crowns +of plants, which the frozen ground underneath does not allow to go +down. I have seen roots of shallow-rooted plants, _Lobelia cardinalis_ +for instance, growing in clayey soil, lying on the surface of the +ground in spring--pried out by soil expansion. Part of the covering may +be removed quite early but enough should remain to shade the ground. + + + + +SUMMER MULCHING + + +Shallow-rooted plants like the cardinal flower (_Lobelia cardinalis_) +and the tall, fall-flowering hardy phloxes, dislike the hot sun beating +down on their roots. Being surface rooters, and at the same time fond +of moisture, they suffer when the surface soil is dried out. They +should have a summer mulch to intercept the radiation of moisture from +the soil. + +The spent manure I mentioned as fine for covering bulbs, is splendid +for this purpose and as it is of the same color as the soil, its +presence is hardly noticeable; besides it adds humus. Almost any open +material may be used, that will not offend our ideas of tidiness in +appearance. Grass clippings from the lawn-mower may be used. + +Some plants are late in appearing above ground in the spring, +_Platycodons_ for instance, and there is danger of their being dug up +by impatient amateurs who have either forgotten their presence or +imagined they were dead and the ground vacant. It is well, therefore, +to place in the fall some cane stakes at each plant or in a row around +a group of this class to indicate their presence. I also place stakes +at each lily as they generally occupy open spaces between perennials, +and I seldom wish to disturb them if it becomes necessary to remove one +of the perennials. + +With few exceptions--peonies and the gas plant, for +instance--perennials need dividing and resetting every two or three +years, which should be done in the early fall or early spring, but +never when the soil is very wet, because in the subsequent manipulation +of the soil to replenishing its food supply, it should be dry enough to +break up into fine particles. The Japanese anemone should be replanted +only in the spring. It is in bloom and in active life in the fall. The +best way to proceed is to work one section at a time--say a ten-foot +strip. Cut back the foliage, take up the plants and lay them aside, +covering with burlap or some material to keep the sun and wind from +their roots. Then dig the bed up, deeply, and add some well-rotted +manure, rake smoothly and replant. While it is probably best not to set +the same plants back in the same position occupied before, it may be +done, for if the soil has been well worked up it is apt to have changed +its position. Then take up another section and do the same. In the +meantime all large roots are divided. Some may be pulled apart, but +more often they have to be cut through with a sharp spade or a butcher +knife. Discard all evidence of decay and use only the healthy outer +rim, possessing well-developed roots. They generally show the stalk +buds for next year's growth. Three to five of these buds will make a +good plant. Sometimes, in the case, perhaps, of a cherished but not +over-robust larkspur, you find part of the original root decayed, but +if it has a few good roots attached to it, dust powdered sulphur on the +decayed part--it often checks decay--and you may eventually restore +your pet to a healthy condition. + +[Illustration: Peonies have the advantages of few enemies, long and +vigorous life, beauty and, in most varieties, delightful fragrance] + +If you want a delightful recreation and lots of fun, and would like to +possess some plant producing a flower entirely new in color or form, +and, certainly in your estimation finer than any your rival neighbors +have ever seen, make a reserve bed in some sunny spot and raise hybrid +delphiniums. In fact any one possessing a good collection of perennials +should have a reserve plantation to draw from in order to fill up gaps +that will be found in the main bed after any hard winter. It is +especially useful for keeping up a stock of that charming but +short-lived perennial, the columbine (_Aquilegia_), which seldom can be +depended upon after the second year. I am speaking of the finer forms. + +These hybrid delphiniums, or garden larkspur, possess the blood of two +or more species and as a result are inclined to "sport," producing +flowers of various forms and colors, entirely different from those of +the parents. The word "sport" as used by gardeners is applied to any +plant that displays a marked contrast in foliage, flower, form or habit +of growth, from the type or normal aspect of the original species. The +well-known golden glow is a good example, being a double form of the +single-flowered _Rudbeckia laciniata_, a tall member of the Black-eyed +Susan family, and known as one of the coneflowers. The flower head of +the type is composed of two parts--the outer row of yellow "ray +florets," which is not a part of the flower proper, except that it +might be likened to the fringe that borders a curtain, and the dark +brown cone in the center, which is composed of numerous minute, +individual flowers like the dandelion, each perfect and capable of +producing seed. Nature is slyly freakish at times, and in this instance +she changed the individual flowers into ray florets. Fortunately some +observing flower lover saw this one original plant, for undoubtedly the +freak occurred in one plant only, and transplanting it to his garden, +eventually gave to the floral world the now common golden glow. If not +noticed by some one, the plant would have lived its allotted term and +died unknown to the world, for it produces no seed. + +The delphinium sports into various forms of flower, color and shape--the +tones of color being a mingling of blues, pinks and mauve, some in the +most lovely combinations imaginable. They will all bloom the first year +from seed if sown in February or March in a greenhouse or hot-bed, but +will not all bloom at once, so that for at least a period of one month, +new blooms are opening each day. One's main pleasure is in expectancy. +You are always looking and hoping for something better, and you generally +get it. It is best, when a plant does not produce a flower up to grade, +to dig it up and discard it, but those that are good should be marked +in some manner to identify them. A label placed at their side will do, +but the better way is to get some small sheet-lead tags, bearing +stamped-in numbers or letters. Attach to wire pegs ten inches long and +force down near the plant, recording its number in your "Garden Book" +with a description of the flower. This enables you at any planting +time--spring is the best for delphiniums--to plant in groups of light +blues, dark blues, etc. You may be undecided sometimes as to whether +you consider a plant good enough to keep or not. In this case keep it, +but mark it a "hold-over." Some plants do better the second season. +They may be sown outdoors in May, but will hardly bloom the same year. + + + + +PLANT COMBINATIONS + + +Many combinations may be used whereby a certain area may be made to +produce a double crop of bloom, and thus prolong the flowering season +within that area. Peonies, which are planted two and a half to three +feet apart, may have the _Lilium superbum_, the later varieties of +gladiolus, or _Hyacinth candicans_ planted in between them; the last +two should be taken up each fall as they are not hardy in all sections. +The lilies will require resetting every few years, as they travel +around in their new growth, and may invade the peony roots. These will +flower above the peony foliage. Fall is the best time to plant any +lily. + +The shooting star (_Dodecatheon media_) may be planted between the +spreading dwarf plants of that admirable bell flower (_Campanula +Carpatica_). The bell flowers may be planted eighteen inches apart and, +in the spring, when the shooting stars are up and in bloom, the foliage +of the campanula is hardly in evidence, but during the summer it +occupies all the space between them. + +[Illustration: There are interesting combinations of flowers not only +for succession of bloom but for simultaneous bloom, as Canterbury bells +(_Campanula medium_) and foxglove (_Digitalis_)] + +After flowering, all that part of the shooting star above ground turns +brown, dies back and disappears to return again next spring. + +The Virginia bluebell (_Mertensia Virginica_) is another charming plant +of the same habit, and as it is worthy of cultivation in groups, it +often becomes a question where to place it so that the bare ground it +leaves behind is not an eye-sore. Besides colonies I have established +in my ravine, where the overhanging underbrush hides its absence later +on, I grow it under large bushes of forsythia. Both bloom at the same +time and the pink buds and open blue bells of the _Mertensia_, when +seen through the fleecy mass of the golden bells of the forsythia, make +a charming picture. After flowering, the forsythia hides the disrobing +_Mertensia_ with its heavy sheet of foliage. + +Some perennials--the bleeding heart and the perennial poppy--have +ragged foliage after blooming and require some tall bushy plant to +be placed in front and around them to hide their shabbiness. +Strong-growing perennials, asters or the biennial _Rudbeckia triloba_, +are good for this purpose. + +Some instances occur where a low hedge of perennials might look well, +for instance in a small yard where all the lines are formal and a +straight walk leads from gate to house. A floral hedge might be placed +at each side of the walk by making beds eighteen inches to two feet +wide and deep. The best perennial hardy plant I know for this purpose +is the gas plant (_Dictamnus fraxinella_), which, when once established, +remains a joy, almost forever. Some people are still enjoying the +blooms of plants set out by their great-grandmothers. This plant is +slow in increasing its size, but a row planted twelve inches apart will +in time make a compact hedge with a dark green, lustrous foliage, over +two feet tall and fully as broad. The flower spikes are borne well +above the foliage, some pink, deeply veined a darker hue, and some +white. A mixture of the colors is desirable. On account of the slow +habit of its increase, the bed will look scantily furnished for a few +years. This can be remedied by growing at each side of the row of +plants any spring-flowering bulb, or by carpeting in summer with sweet +alyssum, sowing seeds in the bed. Any low-growing annual will do, but +it must be low-growing or it may injure the _Fraxinella_. + + + + +WEEDING + + +Paradoxical as it may seem, the weed is the best friend the farmer has +because it compels him to cultivate his land in order to exterminate +the intruder. Cultivation keeps the soil open to air and moisture and +conserves the latter. It is best, therefore, to go over lightly with a +hoe the day after a heavy rain or a good watering. + +The time to weed is before you see the weeds, but if they do appear, +don't run away from them. When none are in sight, the chances are that +upon microscopic examination, a velvety fuzz of green would be +discovered. These are minute weed seedlings, but yet slightly rooted, +and easily treated by simple dislodgment. A hot, windy day is a good +time to hoe between your plants, because the wind and sun kill the +uprooted weeds in a short time. They dry up, and there is but little to +remove. On a damp cloudy day if a disturbed bit--no matter how +small--of the pestiferous couch grass rolls near the base of a plant +and remains there, it will send down its roots among those of the +plant, and it is almost impossible to get them out without taking the +plant up. + + + + +LISTS OF DEPENDABLE PERENNIALS + + +It is useless to attempt to name and describe all the good perennials +that may be grown, but there are some that seem to do well in all +sections and it may be well to call attention to some of them. + + +_Anchusia Italica_--Italian Alknet + +One should grow the Dropmore variety, or possibly Perry's variety, a +new form just introduced. I would not have included this plant in the +list, because it does not winter well and a stock of seedling plants +should be grown each year and wintered in a coldframe, did it not +present such an airy, open-headed plant covered with its gentian-blue +flowers for a long time. A good blue is a rare color in the garden. A +group of these should be planted about two and a half feet apart and at +the rear, as they grow five to six feet in height. + + +Asters (hardy) + +The so-called aster, grown by florists, and in general gardens, is not +a true aster, but is known botanically as _Callistephus Chinensis_, +introduced from China in 1731, and is a hardy annual. Why it received +the common name of aster I have never been able to find out. The true +aster is named from its star shape, and in England is much prized and +is called the Michaelmas Daisy, because they are in full bloom at the +time of the feast of St. Michael. As they grow wild nearly everywhere +in the States, they are not grown so much in gardens here. All good +catalogues list quite a number of good varieties for one to choose +from. Being tall they should be planted at the rear. + + +_Aconitum_--Monk's-hood, Helmet Flower + +This plant, the roots of which are poisonous, should not be grown where +children are apt to get at its roots, and when transplanted care should +be taken not to allow any of its small, beet-like tubers to lie around, +the surplus being burned. They grow about four feet high, blooming in +the latter part of summer. _A. autumnale_ and _A. Napellus_ are among +the best. + + +Anemones--Wind Flower + +_Anemone Pennsylvanica_ is a native, growing a little over a foot in +height, producing in profusion fairly large white flowers in July and +August. Having a "woodsy" look, it seems at home in semi-shaded +positions, where it does well, but will thrive in full sun. The king of +the tribe, however, is the Japanese variety, _A. Japonica_, especially +the variety _Alba_, with large, showy, pure white flowers, blooming +late in the fall, often after the first slight frost, and at a time +when all others are gone. For this reason they should be planted where +they may be seen from some house window, and thus be enjoyed when it is +too chilly to be out-of-doors. If planted eighteen inches apart, cup +and saucer Canterbury bells may be planted in between them and removed +when through blooming. The anemones do not require the room before +that. + +[Illustration: One of the brightest stars of the garden in late fall is +the Japanese anemone] + + +_Arabis Alpina_--Rock Cress + +Rock cress is an early spring, white-flowering plant. Its low-growing +habit makes it suitable for edging. In the fall plant _Chionodoxa +Luciliae_ in between them. This is a blue-flowering bulb, hardy, cheap +and in flower at the same time the rock cress is. + + +_Aquilegia_--Columbine + +These have been mentioned in connection with the article on reserve +beds. The Rocky Mountain columbine (_A. caerulea_), a bright blue form, +is probably the handsomest one of the family, but it seldom lasts long. +The golden columbine (_A. chrysantha_) seems to be the sturdiest of the +group and lasts several years. It belongs to the long-spurred class, +all of which are good. + + +_Bocconia cordata_--Plume Poppy + +The plume poppy is a stately plant, attaining a height of seven to +eight feet, bearing in July and August terminal panicles of creamy +white flowers having large, indented glaucous foliage. It has one +fault, however; it spreads rapidly and soon takes possession of the +whole bed, and therefore should be in an individual hole of its own. +The plantings are sometimes made in large bottomless tubs, sunk in the +ground. + + +_Campanula_--Bell Flower + +Nearly all of this family, as well as the allied _Platycodons_, are +good. They are slender, upright growers, as a rule, but _C. Carpatica_, +already mentioned in the text, grows but eight inches tall. The species +_macrantha persicifolia, rotundifolia_ (Blue Bells of Scotland) and +_Trachelium_, are the most reliable among the group. The cup-and-saucer, +and the chimney bell flower, are biennials, blooming but once, and have +to be wintered the year prior in a coldframe. + + +_Centaureas_--Hard-heads + +Like an open sunny position. _C. macrocephala_ is the best, bearing +thistle-like golden yellow flowers. + + +Coreopsis + +The species _lanceolata_, and _C. grandiflora_, have rich golden +flowers of pleasing form, splendid for cutting. They grow about two +feet high and bloom all summer if not allowed to go to seed, but seldom +last over the third year. + + +Delphiniums + +Have already been discussed. All the named varieties are good, +especially Belladonna. See page 26. + + +_Dictamnus_--Gas Plant + +Fully described on page 32. + + +_Digitalis_--Foxglove + +The form usually grown is treated as a biennial, and with me, must be +coldframed the first year. _Ambigua_ or _grandiflora_ is a perennial +having pleasing pale yellow flowers, and is a comparatively long-lived +plant. + + +_Echinops_--Globe Thistle + +This is a tall, interesting plant with foliage somewhat like a thistle. +_E. Ritro_ is the best. Its peculiar flower head consists of a ball +about an inch and a half in diameter, from which spring, in close array +all over the ball, minute flowers of a deep metallic blue. + + +_Eryngium_--Sea Holly + +A plant somewhat similar in appearance to the _Echinops_, but smaller +in all its parts. _E. amethystinum_ is the best, having small globular +flower heads of an amethystine blue color, this color also extending +quite a way down the flower stems. + + +_Eupatorium_--Thoroughwort + +Two forms are in the market--_E. ageratoides_, bearing numerous small +white flowers in late summer, and _E. coelestinum_, with light blue +flowers similar to the ageratum. Both are good. + + +_Funkia_--Plantain Lily--Broad-leaf Day Lily + +I consider _F. subcordata grandiflora_ the best of this group. In time +a single plant, if not crowded, will make a mound of green foliage, +looking as if an inverted bushel basket were shingled with broad +overlapping foliage, above which, in August, spring pure white, +sweet-scented lily-like flowers. It will stand partial shade. If +planted in groups they should be placed two and a half to three feet +apart. Tulips may be planted between them. + + +_Gaillardia_--Blanket Flower + +The perennial forms produce much handsomer flowers than do the annuals. +All of our garden perennial forms, including _grandiflora_, are +varieties of _G. aristata_, and, being natives of Texas, are not always +hardy in the Northern States.--See page 4 in the text. It is a rather +sprawling plant, growing naturally some two feet high, and hard to +stake, but may be pegged down. Use common long hairpins. It requires an +open situation in full sun, and thrives best in a sandy soil, well +drained. + + +_Geum_--Avens + +Quite a hardy border plant, rather low in its foliage, but throwing its +flower stems up fully eighteen inches, blooming more or less all +summer. _G. coccineum_, with scarlet flowers, and _G. Hederichi_, +are both good. + + +_Hesperis matronalis_--Rocket + +An admirable plant for use where most other plants would fail. It does +fairly well in semi-shady places, at base of shrubs and in between them +in open spots. Plants grow three to four feet tall, of bushy form when +treated well, bearing pinkish flowers in June and July. There is a +white form. + + +_Hemerocalis_--Yellow Day Lily + +All are good, strong growers with narrow iris-like foliage, producing +flowers in tones of yellow. _H. flava_, the sweet-scented, deep +lemon-yellow-flowered form, is the best and must not be confounded with +the coarser-flowered _H. fulva_, the tawny day lily. + + +_Hibiscus_--Mallow + +All the mallows are good, from the "crimson eye" to the new mallow +marvels, moderately late, upright-growing and hardy. The colors run +from pure white to pinks and reds. + + +_Inula ensifolia_ + +A low-growing very hardy plant bearing freely yellow daisy-like +flowers, always presenting a neat appearance. + + +Hollyhocks + +On account of the prevailing hollyhock disease--a disease of the +foliage hard to combat--it is best to grow one-year-old plants, as they +are less affected than the older ones. The singles are the most +charming. + + +Iris--Fleur-de-lis + +This is a large group, from the bulbous Spanish and English iris, which +bloom in June and then die down to reappear next season, and may +therefore be planted in open spaces between other plants, to the +magnificent Japanese iris, _I. Kaempferi_. This latter one is somewhat +fickle and does not last long. The best for general planting are the +German, _cristata_, _pumilla_ and _Sibirica_ varieties. _Pallida +Dalmatica_ is exceedingly fine. + + +[Illustration: The tall-growing hardy phlox is a garden mainstay +through August, September and October. Beware of the magenta colorings] + + +_Lysimachia clethroides_--Loose-strife + +An excellent plant in damp soils. + + +_Paeonia_--Peony + +Every one should have them, including the early-flowering red _P. +officinalis_, and the later ones. Try a few tree peonies--_P. Moutan_. +They are grafted on the ordinary form, so destroy all suckers that come +from below the union. + + +Phlox + +The tall-growing hardy phlox should be in all gardens. It is permanent +if taken up every three years and divided. Strong "cutting" plants give +the finest blooms. Avoid magenta colors. The new salmon-pink Elizabeth +Campbell is fine; on light soils, well drained, the creeping forms are +desirable. + + +Pyrethrum + +The hybrids of _P. roseum_ have handsome, daisy-like flowers in white +and various shades of pink, up to red, in single and semi-double forms, +but they seldom live long. A raised bed suits them best. _P. uliginosum_, +the giant white daisy, is fine in damp situations. + + +_Rudbeckia_ + +This genus includes the well-known golden glow and _R. nitida_ var. +Autumn Sun, growing five feet high. It bears attractive primrose yellow +flowers. The giant purple coneflower, often classed as a rudbeckia, is +really an _Echinacea_, growing three or more feet tall, bearing reddish +purple flowers and is very attractive in groups bordering a woods or +shrubbery belt, presenting a rustic aspect and remaining a long time in +bloom. + + +_Thalictrum_--Meadow Rue + +The white form of _T. aquilegifolium_ is a very handsome plant, doing +fairly well in open shade, flowering in fluffy masses of white. + + +_Veronica_--Speedwell + +These are all good, but _V. longifolia subsessilis_ is by far the +finest of the taller growers, reaching a height of three feet, and +bearing long slender spikes of deep blue flowers. + + + + +SOME OF THE BEST PLANTS FOR SHADY POSITIONS + +_Aconitum_--Monk's-hood +_Actaea spicata_--Baneberry +_Amsonia_ +_Anemone Pennsylvanica_--Wind Flower +_Convallaria_--Lily-of-the-valley +_Dielytra_--Bleeding-heart +Ferns +_Funkia_--Plantain Lily +Hepaticas--Liver Leaf +_Thalictrum_--Meadow Rue +Trillium--Wake Robin +_Mertensia Virginica_--Virginia Blue Bells + + + + +FOR DRY SOILS + +_Asclepias tuberosa_--Butterfly Weed +_Aquilegia Canadensis_--Canadian Columbine +_Aquilegia alpina_--Alpine Columbine +_Gypsophila paniculata_--Baby's Breath +_Gaillardia_--Blanket Flower +_Geranium sanguineum_--Cranes-bill +_Helianthus multiflorus_, fl. pl.--Double Mexican Sunflower +_Inula grandiflora_--Flea Bane +_Inula ensifolia_ +_Saxifraga crassifolia_ +Sedums--Stonecrop +_Tunica saxifraga_ + + +[Illustration: Crimson-eye hibiscus or swamp mallow, blooming in August +and September] + +[Illustration: Gaillardias are at their best in the perennial form and +thrive in a sandy soil] + +[Illustration: _Campanula persicifolia_, one of the best varieties in +the bell flower family] + + + + +FOR WET SOILS + +_Hibiscus Moscheutos_--Swamp Mallow, and all Mallows +_Iris pseudacorus_ + " _Sibirica_--Siberian Iris + " _laevigata_--Japanese Iris + " _prismatica_ +_Lilium superbum_--Turk's-cap Lily +_Lobelia cardinalis_--Cardinal Flower +_Monarda_--Bergamot--in variety, Rose +_Lythrum Salicaria_--Loose-strife +_Lysimachia clethroides_--Loose-strife +_Polygonum cuspidatum_--Giant Knot-weed +_Spiraea_--dwarf herbaceous form in variety + + + + +ALPINES, OR ROCK PLANTS + +_Achillea tomontosa_--Wooly Yarrow +_Arabis albida_--Rock Cress +_Campanula Carpatica_--Carpathian Harebell +_Coronilla varia_--Crown Vetch +_Geum coccineum_--Avens +_Gypsophila repens_--Baby's Breath +_Inula ensifolia_--Flea Bane +_Phlox amoena_, in variety--Creeping Phlox +_Sedum_, in variety--Stonecrop +_Tunica saxifraga_ +_Veronica circaeoides_--Speedwell +_Yucca filamentosa_--Adam's Needle + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Making a Garden of Perennials, by W. 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