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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Old Times at Otterbourne, by Charlotte M.
+Yonge
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Old Times at Otterbourne
+
+
+Author: Charlotte M. Yonge
+
+
+
+Release Date: February 19, 2008 [eBook #24651]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OLD TIMES AT OTTERBOURNE***
+
+
+Transcribed from the 1891 Warren and Son edition by David Price, email
+ccx074@pglaf.org
+
+{The Keble Cross--Otterbourne Churchyard: p0.jpg}
+
+{Picture from title page: p1.jpg}
+
+
+
+
+
+Old Times
+at Otterbourne.
+
+
+BY
+CHARLOTTE M. YONGE.
+
+[SECOND EDITION.]
+
+Winchester:
+WARREN AND SON, PRINTERS AND PUBLISHERS, HIGH STREET.
+
+London:
+SIMPKIN AND CO., LIMITED, STATIONERS' HALL COURT.
+1891
+
+
+
+
+Old Times at Otterbourne.
+
+
+Not many of us remember Otterbourne before the Railroad, the Church, or
+the Penny Post. It may be pleasant to some of us to try to catch a few
+recollections before all those who can tell us anything about those times
+are quite gone.
+
+To begin with the first that is known about it, or rather that is
+guessed. A part of a Roman road has been traced in Otterbourne Park, and
+near it was found a piece of a quern, one of the old stones of a hand
+mill, such as was used in ancient times for grinding corn; so that the
+place must have been inhabited at least seventeen hundred years ago. In
+the last century a medallion bearing the head of a Roman Emperor was
+found here, sixteen feet beneath the surface. It seems to be one of the
+medallions that were placed below the Eagle on the Roman Standards, and
+it is still in the possession of the family of Fitt, of Westley.
+
+After the Roman and British times were over, this part of the country
+belonged to Wessex, the kingdom of the West Saxons, of which Winchester
+was the capital. Lying so near the chief town, which was the Bishop's
+throne, this place was likely soon to be made into a parish, when
+Archbishop Theodore divided England in dioceses and parishes, just twelve
+hundred years ago, for he died 690. The name no doubt means the village
+of the Otters, and even now these creatures are sometimes seen in the
+Itchen, so that no doubt there were once many more of them. The shapes
+and sizes of most of our parishes were fixed by those of the estates of
+the Lords who first built the Church for themselves and their households,
+with the churls and serfs on their manor. The first Lord of Otterbourne
+must have had a very long narrow property, to judge by the form of the
+parish, which is at least three miles long, and nowhere a mile in
+breadth. Most likely he wanted to secure as much of the river and meadow
+land as he could, with some high open heathy ground on the hill as common
+land where the cattle could graze, and some wood to supply timber and
+fuel. Probably all the slopes of the hills on each side of the valley of
+the Otter were covered with wood. The top of the gravelly hill to the
+southward was all heather and furze, as indeed it is still, and this
+reached all the way to Southampton and the Forest. The whole district
+was called Itene or Itchen, like the river. The name meant in the old
+English language, the Giant's Forest and the Giant's Wood.
+
+The hill to the north was, as it still remains, chalk down. The village
+lay near the river and the stream that runs into it, upon the bed of clay
+between the chalk and the gravel. Most likely the Moathouse was then in
+existence, though a very different building from what it is at present,
+and its moat very deep and full of water, serving as a real defence.
+There is nothing left but broad hedge rows of the woods to the
+north-east, but one of these is called Dane Lane, and is said to be the
+road by which the Danes made their way to Winchester, being then a
+woodland path. It is said that whenever the yellow cow wheat grows
+freely the land has never been cultivated.
+
+There was a hamlet at Boyatt, for both it and Otterbourne are mentioned
+in Domesday Book. This is the great census that William the Conqueror
+caused to be taken 1083 of all his kingdom. From it we learn that
+Otterbourne had a Church which belonged to Roger de Montgomery, a great
+Norman baron, whose father had been a friend of William I.
+
+Well for the parish that it lay at a distance from the Giant's Wood,
+where the King turned out all the inhabitants for the sake of his "high
+deer," making it the New Forest. He and his sons could ride through down
+and heath all the way to their hunting. We all know how William Rufus
+was brought back from his last hunt, lying dead in the charcoal burner
+Purkis's cart, in which he was carried to his grave in Winchester
+Cathedral. Part of the road between Hursley and Otterbourne, near
+Silkstede, is called King's Lane, because it is said to have been the way
+by which this strange hearse travelled.
+
+Silkstede is a farm now--it was most likely a grange, or outlying house
+belonging to some monastery--and there is a remnant of the gardens and
+some fine trees, and a hollow called China Dell, where snowdrops and
+double daffodils grow. But this is in Hursley parish, as is also Merdon
+Castle.
+
+The green mounds and deep trenches, and the fragments of ruinous wall,
+have a story reaching far back into the ages.
+
+There is little doubt, from their outline, that once there was an
+entrenched camp of the Romans on this ground, but nothing is known
+thereof. Merantune, as our Saxon ancestors called it, first is heard of
+when in 755 Cynewolf, King of Wessex, was murdered there by his kinsman
+Cyneheard, who was in his turn killed by the Thanes of the victim. With
+this savage story it first appears, but no more is known of its fate
+except that it became the property of the Bishops of Winchester, some say
+by the grant of Cynegyls, the first Christian King of Wessex, others by a
+later gift. It was then a manor, to which Hurstleigh, the woodland, was
+only an appendage; and the curious old manorial rights and customs
+plainly go back to these ancient prae-Norman times. To go through all
+the thirty customs would be impossible, but it is worth noting that the
+tenure of the lands descended by right to the youngest son in a family
+instead of the eldest. Such "cradle fiefs" exist in other parts of
+England, and in Switzerland, on the principle that the elder ones go out
+into the world while their father is vigorous, but the youngest is the
+stay of his old age. The rents were at first paid in kind or in labour,
+with a heriot, namely, the most valuable animal in stock on a death, but
+these became latterly commuted for quit rent and fines. The trees were
+carefully guarded. Only one good timber tree on each holding in the life-
+time of a tenant might be cut by the Lord of the Manor, and the tenants
+themselves might only cut old rotten trees! But this is as much as you
+will wish to hear of these old customs, which prove that the Norman
+feudal system was kept out of this Episcopal manor. It was not even
+mentioned in Domesday Book, near as it was to Winchester. There it lay,
+peacefully on its island of chalk down, shut in by the well-preserved
+trees, till Stephen's brother, Bishop Henry de Blois, of Winchester,
+bethought him of turning the old Roman Camp into a fortified castle. The
+three Norman kings had wisely hindered the building of castles, but these
+sprung up like mushrooms under the feeble rule of Stephen.
+
+The tenants must have toiled hard, judging by the massiveness of the
+small remnant, all built of the only material at hand, chalk to make
+mortar, in which flints are imbedded.
+
+This fragment still standing used to be considered as part of the keep,
+but of late years better knowledge of the architecture of castles has led
+to the belief that it was part of the northern gateway tower. I borrow
+the description of the building from one written immediately after the
+comments of a gentleman who had studied the subject.
+
+Henry de Blois, King Stephen's brother, Bishop of Winchester, probably
+wished for a stronghold near at hand, during his brother's wars with the
+Empress Maud. He would have begun by having the nearly circular
+embankment thrown up with a parapet along the top, and in the ditch thus
+formed a stockade of sharp pointed stakes. Within the court, the well,
+300 feet deep, was dug, and round it would have been the buildings needed
+by the Bishop, his household and guards, much crowded together. The
+entrance would have been a drawbridge, across the great ditch, which on
+this side was not less than 60 feet wide and perhaps 25 deep, and through
+a great gateway between two high square towers which must have stood
+where now there is a slope leading down from the inner court, into the
+southern one. This slope is probably formed by the ruins of the gateway
+and tower being pitched into the ditch.
+
+The Castle was then very small, and did not command the country except
+towards the south. The next work therefore would be to throw out an
+embankment to the south, with a ditch outside. The great gap whence
+Hursley House is seen, did not then exist, but there was an unbroken
+semicircle of rampart and ditch, which would protect a large number of
+men. In case of an enemy forcing this place, the defenders could retreat
+into the Castle by the drawbridge.
+
+The entrance was on the eastern side, and in order to protect this and
+the back (or northern side) of the Castle, an embankment was thrown up
+outside the first moat, and with an outer moat of its own. Then, as, in
+case of this being carried by the enemy the defenders would be cut off
+from the main southern gateway, a square tower was built on this outer
+embankment exactly opposite to the ruin which yet remains, and only
+divided from it by the great ditch. On either side of the tower, cutting
+the embankment across therefore at right angles, was a little ditch
+spanned by a drawbridge, which, if the defenders found it necessary to
+retire to the tower, could at any time be raised. The foundations of the
+tower and the position of the ditch can still be distinctly traced.
+
+Supposing farther that it became impossible to hold the tower, the
+besieged could retreat into the main body of the Castle by another
+drawbridge across the great ditch. This would lead them through the arch
+which can still be seen in the ruin, though it is partially blocked up.
+The room on the east side of this passage was probably a guard room.
+
+These are all the remains. The embankments to the south and west command
+a great extent of country, and on the north and northwest, we trace the
+precautions by the great depth of the ditch, and steepness of the
+earthworks, though now overgrown with trees. All this must have been
+done between the years 1138 and 1154, and great part of the defences were
+thrown down in the lifetime of the founder. Merdon was not destined to
+shine in sieges, in spite of its strength. Henry II came in, and forbad
+the multiplication of castles and Merdon seems to have been dismantled as
+quickly as it had been built.
+
+The Bishops of Winchester however still seem to have resided there from
+time to time, though it gradually fell into decay, and was ruinous by the
+end of the Plantagenet period.
+
+After the younger Oliver's death, his sisters endeavoured to obtain the
+Hursley property to which their father had succeeded as his son's heir.
+He was past eighty and the judge allowed him to wear his hat at the trial
+in court, an act of consideration commended by Queen Anne.
+
+After his death, in 1708, the estate was sold to the Heathcote family.
+The old house, whose foundations can be traced on the lawn, and which was
+approached by the two avenues of walnut trees still standing, was then
+pulled down, and the present one erected.
+
+{Doorway of Old Church: p6.jpg}
+
+Most likely the oldest thing in Otterbourne is the arch that forms the
+doorway of the Boys' School, and which came from the door of the Old
+Church. By the carving on that arch, and the form of the little
+clustered columns that support it, we can tell that it must have been put
+up about the time of King Richard I or King John, somewhere about the
+year 1200. There was certainly a church before this date, but most
+likely this was the first time that much pains had been taken about its
+beauty, and carved stone had been brought from a distance. It was a good
+spot that was chosen, lying a little above the meadows, and not far from
+the moated Manor House. The east wall of the nave is still standing, but
+it now forms the west wall of the small remnant that is still covered in.
+It still has three arches in it, to lead to the old chancel, and above
+those arches there were some paintings. They came to light when the Old
+Church was pulled down. First, a great deal of plaster and whitewash
+came off. Then appeared part of the Commandments in Old English black
+letter, and below that, again, were some paintings, traced out in red
+upon the wall. They have been defaced so much that all that could be
+found out was that there was a quatrefoil shape within a square. The
+corners were filled up apparently with the emblems of the Four Cherubim,
+though only the Winged Ox showed plainly. There was a sitting figure in
+the centre, with the hand raised, and it was thought to be a very rude
+representation of our Blessed Lord in Judgment. In another compartment
+was an outline of a man, and another in a hairy garment, so that this
+last may have been intended for the Baptism of our Blessed Lord.
+Unfortunately, being on the outside wall, there was no means of
+protecting these curious paintings, and, sad to say, one evening, I
+myself saw a party of rough boys standing in a row throwing stones at
+them. There being a pathway through the churchyard, it was not possible
+to keep them out, and thus these curious remains have been destroyed.
+
+We may think of the people who resorted to the little Old Church as
+wearing long gowns both men and women, on Sunday, spun, woven, and dyed
+blue at home, most likely with woad, a plant like mignonette which still
+grows in the lanes. The gentry were in gayer colours, but most likely
+none lived nearer than Winchester, and it was only when they plodded into
+market that the people would see the long-hanging sleeves, the pointed
+hoods, and the queer long-toed shoes of the young gentlemen, or the
+towers that the ladies put on their heads.
+
+The name of Otterbourne does not come forward in history, but, as it lies
+so near Winchester, it must have had some share in what happened in the
+Cathedral city. The next thing we know about it is that Bishop Edyngton
+joined it to Hursley. William de Edyngton was Bishop of Winchester in
+the middle part of the reign of Edward III, from 1357 to 1366. Bishop de
+Pontissara founded a College at Winchester called St. Elizabeth's, and to
+assist in providing for the expenses, he decreed that the greater tithes
+of Hursley, those of the corn fields, should be paid to the Dean and
+Chapter, and that the rest of the tithe should go to the Vicar. Then,
+lest the Vicar should be too poor, Otterbourne was to be joined with
+Hursley, and held by the same parish priest, and this arrangement lasted
+for five hundred years. It was made in times when there was little heed
+taken to the real good of country places. The arrangement was confirmed
+by his successor, Bishop Edyngton, who lies buried in the nave of
+Winchester Cathedral, not far from where lies the much greater man who
+succeeded him. William of Wykeham went on with the work Edyngton had
+begun, and built the pillars of the Cathedral nave as we now see them. He
+also founded the two Colleges of St. Mary, one at Winchester for 70 boys,
+one at Oxford to receive the scholars as they grew older, meaning that
+they should be trained up to become priests. It seems that the old name
+of the field where the college stands was Otterbourne meadow, and that it
+was bought of a Master Dummer. Bishop Wykeham's College at Oxford is
+still called New College, though there are now many much newer. One
+small estate at Otterbourne was given by him to help to endow Winchester
+College, to which it still belongs.
+
+Good men had come to think that founding colleges was the very best thing
+they could do for the benefit of the Church, and William of Waynflete,
+who was made Bishop of Winchester in 1447, founded another college at
+Oxford in honour of St. Mary Magdalen. To this College he gave large
+estates for its maintenance, and in especial a very large portion of our
+long, narrow parish of Otterbourne. Ever since his time, two of the
+Fellows of Magdalen, if not the President himself, have come with the
+Steward, on a progress through the estates every year to hold their Court
+and give audit to all who hold lands of them Till quite recently the
+Court was always held at the Manor House, the old Moat House, which must
+once have been the principal house in the parish, though now it is so
+much gone to decay. Old Dr. Plank, the President of Magdalen, used to
+come thither in Farmer Colson's time. What used to be the principal room
+has a short staircase leading to it, and in the wainscot over the fire-
+place is a curious old picture, painted, I fancy, between 1600 and 1700,
+showing a fight between turbaned men and European soldiers, most likely
+Turks and Austrians. It is a pity that it cannot tell its history. The
+moat goes all round the house, garden, and farmyard, and no doubt used to
+have a drawbridge. Forty or fifty years ago, it was clear and had fish
+in it, but the bridge fell in and choked the stream, and since that it
+has become full of reeds and a mere swamp. It must have been a really
+useful protection in the evil times of the Wars of the Roses.
+
+Most likely the Commandments were painted over the old fresco on the east
+wall of the nave of the old Church either in the time of Edward VI, or
+Elizabeth, for if they had been later, the letters would not have been
+Old English. The foreigners who meddled so much with our Church in the
+latter years of Edward VI obtained that the Holy Communion should not be
+celebrated in the chancels, but that the Holy Table should be spread in
+the body of the Church, and many Chancels were thus disused and became
+ruinous, as ours most certainly did at some time or other. St.
+Elizabeth's College was broken up and the place where it stood given to
+the college of St. Mary. It is still called Elizabeth Meadow. The
+presentation to the Cure of our two parishes went with the estate of
+Hursley.
+
+There was a very odd scene somewhere between Winchester and Southampton
+in the year 1554. Queen Mary Tudor was waiting at Winchester for her
+bridegroom, Philip of Spain. He landed at Southampton on the morning of
+the 20th of July, and set out in a black velvet dress, red cloak, and
+black velvet hat, with a splendid train of gentlemen to ride to
+Winchester. It was a very wet day, and the Queen sent a gentleman with a
+ring from her, to beg him to come no farther in the rain. But the
+gentleman knew no Spanish, and the King no English. So Philip thought
+some warning of treachery was meant, and halted in great doubt and
+difficulty till the messenger recollected his French, and said in that
+tongue, that the Queen was only afraid of his Grace's getting wet. So on
+went Philip, and the High Sheriff of Hampshire rode before him with a
+long white wand in his hand, and his hat off, the rain running in streams
+off his bare head. They went so slowly as not to reach Winchester till
+six or seven o'clock in the evening, so that the people of Otterbourne,
+Compton, and Twyford must have had a good view of the Spanish Prince who
+was so unwelcome to them all.
+
+Thomas Sternhold, who together with Hopkins put the Psalms into metre for
+singing, lived in the outskirts of Hursley.
+
+When the plunder of the Monasteries was exhausted, the Tudor Sovereigns,
+or perhaps their favourites, took themselves to exacting gifts and grants
+from the Bishops, and thus Poynet who was intended in the stead of
+Gardiner gave Merdon to Edward VI, who presented it to Sir Philip Hobby.
+It was recovered by Bishop Gardiner, but granted back again by Queen
+Elizabeth. Sir Philip is believed to have first built a mansion at
+Hursley, and his nephew sold the place to Sir Thomas Clarke, who was
+apparently a hard lord of the manor. His tenants still had to labour at
+his crops instead of paying rent, but provisions had to be found them.
+About the year 1600, on the arrival of a hogshead of porridge, unsavoury
+and full of worms, the reapers struck, and their part was taken by Mr.
+Robert Coram, who then owned Cranbury, so hotly that he and Mr. Pye, Sir
+Thomas Clarke's steward, rode at one another through the wheat with drawn
+daggers. Lady Clarke yielded, and cooked two or three bacon-hogs for the
+reapers.
+
+The old road from Winchester to Southampton then went along what we now
+call the Old Hollow, leading from Shawford Down to Oakwood. Then it
+seems to have gone along towards the old Church, its course being still
+marked by the long narrow meadows, called the Jar Mead and Hundred Acres,
+or, more properly, Under an Acre. Then it led down to the ford at
+Brambridge, for there was then no canal to be crossed. The only great
+personage who was likely to have come along this road in the early 17th
+century was King James the First's wife, Queen Anne of Denmark, who spent
+a winter at the old Castle of Winchester, and was dreadfully dull there,
+though the ladies tried to amuse her by all sorts of games, among which
+one was called "Rise, Pig, and Go."
+
+James I gave us one of the best of Bishops, Lancelot Andrewes by name,
+who wrote a beautiful book of devotions. He lived on to the time of
+Charles I, and did much to get the ruins made in the bad days round
+Winchester Cathedral cleared and set to rights. Most likely he saw that
+the orders for putting the altars back into their right places were
+carried out, and very likely the chancel was then mended, but with no
+attention to architecture, for the head of the east window was built up
+anyhow with broken bits of tracery from a larger and handsomer one. The
+heir of the Clarkes sold the property at Hursley to Mr. Mayor, to whose
+only daughter Oliver Cromwell married his son Richard.
+
+What happened here in the Great Rebellion we do not know. An iron ball
+was once dug up in the grounds at Otterbourne House, which may have come
+from Oliver's Battery; but it is also said to be only the knob of an old
+pump handle--
+
+ "When from the guarded down
+ Fierce Cromwell's rebel soldiery kept watch o'er Wykeham's town.
+ They spoiled the tombs of valiant men, warrior, and saint, and sage;
+ But at the tomb of Wykeham good angels quenched their rage."
+
+Colonel Nathanael Fiennes prevented harm from being done to the College
+or the monuments in the Cathedral; but there was some talk of destroying
+that holy place, for I have seen a petition from the citizens of
+Winchester that it might be spared. It is said that some loyal person
+took out all the stained glass in the great west window, hid it in a
+chest, and buried it; but when better times came, it could not be
+restored to what it was before, and was put in confusedly, as we now see
+it.
+
+Stoneham had a brave old clergyman, who kept possession of his church and
+rectory all through the war, and went on with the service till he died,
+no man daring to meddle with him. But Otterbourne was sure to follow the
+fate of Hursley. The King's Head Inn at Hursley is thought to have been
+so called in allusion to the death of King Charles I. A strange
+compliment to the Cromwells.
+
+Richard had a large family, most of whom died young, as may be seen on
+their monument in Hursley Church. It was at this time that the customs
+of the Manor were put on record in writing. The son, Oliver, lived till
+1705, and was confounded in the country people's minds with his
+grandfather.
+
+There is an odd, wild story, that Cromwell sunk all his treasure in the
+great well at Merdon Castle, in Hursley Park, 300 feet deep. It was
+further said, if it were drawn up again, that no one must speak till it
+was safe, otherwise it would be lost. A great chest was raised to the
+mouth of the well, when one of the men said, "Here it comes!" The rope
+broke, it fell back, and no one ever saw it more. Most likely this is an
+old legend belonging to the Castle long before, and only connected with
+Oliver Cromwell because he was an historical person. Certain it is that
+when the well was cleared out about 30 or 40 years ago nothing was found
+but two curious old candlesticks, and a great number of pins, which had
+been thrown down because they caused those curious reverberations in the
+great depth. Another legend is that Merdon Well is connected with the
+beautiful clear spring at Otterbourne called Pole Hole or Pool Hole, so
+that when a couple of ducks were thrown down the well, they came out at
+Pole Hole with all their feathers scraped off.
+
+It was in the time of the Commonwealth, in 1653, that our first parish
+register begins. Some parishes have much older ones, so, perhaps, ours
+may have been destroyed. The first entry in this old parchment book is
+that Elizabeth, daughter of Edward Cox, of Otterbourne, and Anne, his
+wife, was born ---. A large stain has made the rest of this entry
+illegible. There are only three births in 1653, and seven in 1654, one
+of these William, son of Mr. William Downe, of Otterbourne Farm, and
+Joane, his wife, is, however, marked with two black lines beneath the
+entry, as are his sisters, Elizabeth and Jane, 1656 and 1658, apparently
+to do honour to the principal inhabitant.
+
+It is to be observed that all the entries here are of births, not of
+baptisms, departing from the general rule of Church registers, and they
+are all in English; but in 1663 each child is recorded as baptized, and
+the Latin language is used. This looks much as if a regular clergyman, a
+scholar, too, had, after the Restoration, become curate of the parish. He
+does not sign his registers, so we do not know his name. In 1653 the
+banns of William Downe and Jane Newman were published September 17th and
+the two Lord's Days ensuing, but their wedding is not entered, and the
+first marriage recorded is that of Matthew Dummer and Jane Burt, in 1663.
+The first funeral was Emelin, wife of Robert Purser, in 1653.
+
+Also, there was plenty of brick-making, for King Charles II had planned
+to build a grand palace at Winchester on the model of the great French
+palace of Versailles, and it is said that Dell copse was formed by the
+digging out of bricks for the purpose. It was to reach all over the
+downs, with fountains and water playing in them, and a great tower on
+Oliver's Battery, with a light to guide the ships in the Channel. There
+is a story that Charles, who was a capital walker, sometimes walked over
+from Southampton to look at his buildings. One of the gentlemen who
+attended him let the people at Twyford know who was going that way. So
+they all turned out to look at him, which was what the King by no means
+wished. So he avoided them, and punished his indiscreet courtier by
+taking a run and crossing one of the broad streams with a flying leap,
+then proceeding on to Winchester, leaving his attendant to follow as best
+he might.
+
+After all only one wing of the intended palace was built. For a long
+time it was called the King's House, but now it is only known as the
+Barracks. The work must have led to an increase in the population, for
+more baptisms are recorded in the register, though not more than six or
+seven in each year, all carefully set down in Latin, though with no
+officiating minister named. There is an Augustine Thomas, who seems to
+have had a large family, and who probably was the owner of the ground on
+which the vicarage now stands, the name of which used to be Thomas's
+Bargain.
+
+There must have been a great quickening of activity in Otterbourne soon
+after the Restoration, for it was then that the Itchen canal or barge
+river, as it used to be called, was dug, to convey coals from
+Southampton, and, of course, this much improved the irrigation of the
+water meadows. This canal was one of the first made in England, and was
+very valuable for nearly two hundred years, until the time of railways.
+
+In 1690, a larger parchment register was provided, and every two years it
+appears to have been shown up to the magistrates at the Petty Sessions,
+and signed by two of them.
+
+At this time there seem to have been some repairs of the church.
+Certainly, a great square board painted with the royal arms was then
+erected, for it bore the date 1698, and the initials "W. M." for William
+and Mary. There it was, on a beam, above the chancel arch, and the lion
+and unicorn on either side, the first with a huge tongue hanging out at
+the corner of his mouth, looking very complacent, as though he were
+displaying the royal arms, the unicorn slim and dapper with a chain
+hanging from his neck.
+
+Several of our old surnames appear about this time, Cox, Comley, Collins,
+Goodchild, Woods, Wareham. John Newcombe, Rector of Otterbourne, who
+afterwards became Bishop of Llandaff, signs his register carefully, but
+drops the Latin, as various names may be mentioned, Scientia, or Science
+Olden, Philadelphia Comley, and Dennis Winter, who married William
+Westgate. Anne and Abraham were the twin children of John and Anne
+Didimus, in 1741.
+
+The first church rate book only begins in 1776, but it is curious as
+showing to whom the land then belonged. The spelling is also odd, and as
+the handwriting is beautiful, so there is no doubt that it really is an
+account of the Church _Raiting_, nor that the "rait" was "mead." Walter
+Smythe, Esquire, of Brambridge, appears, also John Colson John Comley,
+and Charles Vine. Lincolns belonged to Mr. Kentish and Gun Plot to
+Thilman.
+
+The expenditure begins thus:--April 9, 1776, "Pd. Short for 6 dozen sparw
+heds," and the sparw heds are repeated all down the page, varied with
+what would shock the H. H.--3_d._ for foxheads. Also "expenses ad
+visitation" 9_s._ 6_d._, and at the bottom of the page, the parish is
+thus mentioned as creditor "out of pockets, 5_s._ 1_d._" In 1777
+however, though the vestry paid "Didums 1 badger's head, 1 polecat's
+head; Hary Bell for 2 marten cats, and spares innumerable, and the clarck
+warges, 1 pounds 5_s._, there was 1 pounds 3_s._ in hand." The polecats
+and marten cats were soon exterminated, but foxes, hedgehogs, and
+sparrows continue to appear, though in improved spelling, till April
+24th, 1832, when this entry appears:--"At a meeting called to elect new
+Churchwardens, present the Rev. R. Shuckburgh, curate, and only one other
+person present, the meeting is adjourned. Mr. Shuckburgh protests most
+strongly against the disgraceful custom of appropriating money collected
+for Church rates towards destroying vermin on the farms." And this put
+an end to the custom. However, there were more rightful expenses. Before
+Easter there is paid "for washan the surples" 4_s._ It would seem that
+the Holy Communion was celebrated four times a year, and that the
+Elements were paid for every time at 3_s._ 7_d._ In 1784, when there was
+a great improvement in spelling, there were some repairs done--"Paid for
+Communion cloth, 10 pence, and for washing and marking it, 6p." In 1786
+there was a new church bell, costing 5 pounds 5_s._ 10_d._ Aaron Chalk,
+whom some of the elder inhabitants may remember, a very feeble old man
+walking with two sticks, was in that year one of the foremost traders in
+sparrow heads. It gives a curious sense of the lapse of time to think of
+those tottering limbs active in bird catching.
+
+May 2, in 1783, we find the entry "paid for the caraidge of the old bell
+and the new one downe from London, 11_s._ 10_d._ May 22--Paid William
+Branding bill for hanging the new bell, 1 pounds 13_s._" Altogether, at
+the end of the year, it is recorded "the book in debt" 1 pounds 11_s._,
+but "the disburstments," as they are spelt, righted themselves in 1784,
+when we find "paid for musick for the use of the Church, 1 pounds 1_s._
+To George Neal for whitewashing Church, 1 pounds 1_s._, George Neale, two
+days' work, 5_s._ 3_d._, for work in the gallery, 19_s._ 4_d._, bill for
+tiles, 3_s._ 4_d._"
+
+The only connection Otterbourne has with any historical person is not a
+pleasant one. The family of Smythe, Roman Catholics, long held
+Brambridge, and they endowed a little Roman Catholic Chapel at
+Highbridge. At one time, a number of their tenants and servants were of
+the same communion, and there is a note in the parish register by the
+curate to say that there were several families at Allbrook and Highbridge
+whose children he had not christened, though he believed they had been
+baptized by the Roman Catholic priest. One of the daughters of the
+Smythe family was the beautiful Mrs. Fitz-Herbert, whom the Prince of
+Wales, afterwards George IV, was well known to have privately married. He
+never openly avowed this, because by the law made in the time of William
+III, a marriage with a Roman Catholic disqualifies for the succession to
+the crown; besides which, under George III, members of the royal family
+had been prohibited from marrying without the King's consent, and such
+marriages were declared null and void. The story is mentioned here
+because an idea has gone abroad that the wedding took place in the chapel
+at Highbridge, but this is quite untrue. The ceremony was performed at
+Brighton, and it is curious that the story of it having happened here
+only began to get afloat after the death of Mr. Newton, the last of the
+old servants who had known Mrs. Fitz-Herbert. Walter Smythe, her
+brother, was one of the _detenus_ whom Napoleon I kept prisoners, though
+only English travellers, on the rupture of the Peace of Amiens. His
+brother, Charles, while taking care of the estate, had all the lime trees
+in the avenue pollarded, and sold the tops to make stocks for muskets.
+
+{View near Hursley: p16.jpg}
+
+In those days there was only a foot bridge across the Itchen at
+Brambridge. Carts and carriages had to ford the river, not straight
+across, but making a slight curve downwards; this led to awkward
+accidents. There was a gentleman dining with Mr. Walter Smythe, who was
+pressed to sleep at Brambridge, but declined, saying that he liked to
+have all his little comforts about him. When daylight came, the poor man
+was found seated on the top of his chaise, the water flowing through the
+windows below; for the post boy had taken a wrong turn, and, being afraid
+to move, had been forced to remain in the river till the morning. A far
+worse disaster befel the Newton family on their way to a funeral. It is
+described by one of the bearers: "When the cart turned over, the corpse
+was on the foot bridge. It was a very wet day, and the wind was blowing
+furiously at the time. It had a great effect on the cart, as it was a
+narrow cart with a tilt on, and there was a long wood sill at the side of
+the river. That dropping of the sill caused the accident. I think there
+were five females in the cart and the driver. The water was as much as
+4ft. deep and running very sharp, so myself and others went into the
+water to fetch them out, and when we got to the cart they were all on the
+top of the other, with their heads just out of the water. They could not
+go on to church with the corpse, and we had a very hard job to save the
+horse from being drowned, as his head was but just out of the water."
+
+All through the time of the long war with France there was here, as well
+as everywhere else around the coast, fear of a landing of the French. The
+flat-bottomed boats to bring the French over were actually ready at
+Boulogne, and the troops mustered to come across in them. On our side,
+volunteers were in training in case of need, and preparations were made
+for sending off the women and children inland on the first news of the
+enemy landing. Not very many years ago there were still to be seen in a
+barn at Hursley the planks prepared to fit as seats into the waggons that
+were to carry them away. And a family living here are said to have kept
+everything packed up, even the fireirons, and to have stirred up the fire
+with a stick during a whole winter. However, by God's blessing and our
+fleets and armies, the danger was kept from our doors.
+
+With the activity that followed upon the peace came a great deal of road-
+making. The present high road between Winchester and Southampton was
+then made, and the way cut through the hills--Otterbourne Hill and
+Compton Hill on either side. This led to the main part of the
+inhabitants settling in the village street, instead of round the old
+Church as before. Another great road was made at the same time--that
+which crosses Golden Common and leads ultimately to Portsmouth. It used
+to be called Cobbett's Road, because William Cobbett, a clever,
+self-taught man, had much to do with laying it out. Cobbett had a good
+many theories which he tried to put into practice, some sensible, others
+mistaken. The principal traces we see of him now are in the trees that
+he planted, chiefly introduced from America. He thought the robinia, or
+false acacia, would make good hedges, because of its long thorns and
+power of throwing up suckers, and many people planted them, but they
+proved too brittle to be of much use, though some are still growing. He
+was a friend of Mr. Harley, who then owned Otterbourne House, and planted
+many curious trees there, of which two long remained--a hickory nut and a
+large tree in the drive. There was also an oak with enormous leaves, but
+it was planted so near the house that it had to be moved, and died in
+consequence.
+
+These roads were for the coaches. Young folks, who never saw anything
+nearer approaching to a stage coach than the drags some gentlemen keep,
+can hardly fancy what these stage coaches were--tall vehicles, holding
+four inside passengers and at least twelve outside and quantities of
+luggage. They were drawn by four of the strongest and quickest horses
+that could be procured, and these were changed about every five or six
+miles, so as to keep up full speed. The coachman, generally a big, burly
+man, with a face reddened by exposure to the weather, and often by a
+glass of ale at every stage, sat on the box in a drab coat, with many
+capes one over the other. The seat next to him was the favourite one
+with the passengers, and gentlemen would sometimes bribe coachmen to let
+them drive; nay, some gentlemen actually took to the trade themselves.
+There was also a guard, who in mail coaches took care of the post bags,
+and dropped them at the places where they were intended for. In the days
+when highwaymen infested the roads the guard had carried pistols, and
+still the guard of the mail wore a red coat, and blew a horn on entering
+any place to warn the people to bring out their post bags and exchange
+them for others.
+
+One or two coaches kept their horses at the White Horse, so as to be
+fresh for going up the hill, others at the Cricketers, while others
+changed at Compton and the New Hut. Some of the stables still remain,
+converted into cottages. The horses were fine animals, beautifully kept;
+but the habit of hanging about public-houses to attend to them was not
+good for the ostlers and people concerned. About fifteen coaches came
+through this place in the morning, and their fellows in the evening, each
+proprietor keeping two coaches, starting from the two opposite ends at
+the same time. There was the Mail, the Telegraph, the Independent, the
+Red Rover, the Hirondelle, all London coaches, besides the Oxford coach
+and some that only ran between Winchester and Southampton. The driver
+and owner of one, Mason's coach, was only a few years ago living here.
+When people intended to go on a journey, they booked their places a day
+or two beforehand, but for short journeys or going into Winchester they
+would watch for a vacant space in a coach as it passed by.
+
+It is odd to look back at an old article in a quarterly review describing
+coach travelling as something so swift and complete that it could not be
+surpassed in its perfection. Yet accidents with the spirited horses and
+rapid driving were not uncommon, and a fall from an overloaded coach was
+a dangerous thing.
+
+When the mail went by coach the sending of letters and parcels could not
+but be expensive. Heavy goods travelled by waggon, barge, or ship,
+parcels went by carriers or by coaches, and nothing could be posted but
+what was quite light. So postage was very expensive, and it is strange
+to look back on the regulations connected with it. Our readers under
+forty years old will hardly believe the rates that were paid for postage,
+varying according to distance. There was a company in London that
+carried letters from one part of that town to another for twopence
+apiece, and this was the cheapest post in England. A letter from London
+to Otterbourne cost eightpence, and one from Winchester either threepence
+or fourpence, one from Devonshire elevenpence, and this was paid not by
+the sender, but by the receiver. It was reckoned impolite to prepay a
+letter. Moreover, the letter had to be on a single sheet. The sheet
+might be of any size that could be had, but it must be only one. A small
+sheet enclosed within another, or the lightest thing, such as a lock of
+hair or a feather, made it a double letter, for which double postage had
+to be given. The usual custom was to write on quarto sheets twice the
+size of what is used now, and, after filling three sides, to fold the
+fourth, leaving a space for the direction and the seal, and then to write
+on the flaps and in the space over "My dear ---," sometimes crossing the
+writing till the whole letter was chequer work. For if the letter was to
+cost the receiver so much, it seemed fair to let him get as much as
+possible. Letters were almost always sealed, and it took neat and
+practised hands to fold and seal them nicely, without awkward corners
+sticking out.
+
+Newspapers, if folded so as to show the red Government stamp, went for a
+penny, but nothing might be put into them, and not a word beyond the
+address written on them. The reason of all this was that the cost of
+carriage was then so great that it could only be made to answer by those
+high rates, and by preventing everything but real letters and newspapers
+from being thus taken. As Government then, as now, was at the expense of
+postage, its own correspondence went free, and therefore all Members of
+Parliament had the privilege of sending letters freely. They were
+allowed to post eleven a day, which might contain as much as would weigh
+an ounce, without charge, if they wrote the date at the top and their
+name in the right hand corner. This was called franking, and plenty of
+letters by no means on public business travelled in that way.
+
+There was no post office in Otterbourne till between 1836 and 1840; for,
+of course there were few letters written or received, and thus it did not
+seem to many persons worth while for village children to learn to write.
+If they did go into service at a distance from home, their letters would
+cost more than their friends could afford to pay. This was a sad thing,
+and broke up and cut up families very much more than any distance does
+now. It really is easier to keep up intercourse with a person in America
+or even New Zealand now, than it was then with one in Scotland,
+Northumberland, or Cornwall; for travelling was so expensive that visits
+could seldom be made, and servants could not go to their homes unless
+they were within such a short distance as to be able to travel by coach
+or by carrier's cart, or even walking all the way, getting a cast now and
+then by a cart.
+
+People who did not travel by coaches, or who went where there was no
+coach, hired post-chaises, close carriages something like flies. Most
+inns, where the coaches kept their horses, possessed a post-chaise, and
+were licensed to let out post horses for hire. Most of the gentlefolks'
+families kept a close carriage called a chariot, and, if they did not
+keep horses of their own, took a pair of post-horses, one of which was
+ridden by a man, who, whatever might be his age, was always called a post-
+boy. Some inns dressed their post-boys in light blue jackets, some in
+yellow ones, according to their politics, but the shape was always the
+same; corduroy tights, top boots, and generally white (or rather drab-
+coloured) hats. It used to be an amusement to watch whether the post-boy
+would be a blue or a yellow one at each fresh stage. Hardly any one
+knows what a post-boy was like now, far less an old-fashioned travelling
+carriage or chariot and its boxes.
+
+The travelling carriage was generally yellow. It had two good seats
+inside, and a double one had a second seat, where two persons sat
+backwards. The cushion behind lifted up and disclosed a long narrow
+recess called the swordcase, because, when there were highwaymen on the
+roads, people kept their weapons there. There were sometimes two,
+sometimes one seat outside, called the box and the dickey--much the
+pleasantest places, for it was very easy to feel sick and giddy inside. A
+curved splashboard went up from the bottom of the chariot to a level with
+the window, and within it fitted what was called the cap box, with a
+curved bottom, so that when in a house it had to be set down in a frame
+to hold it upright. A big flat box, called the imperial, in which ladies
+put their dresses, was on the top of the carriage, two more long, narrow
+ones, generally used for shoes and linen, fitted under the seat, and
+another square one was hung below the dickey at the back, and called the
+drop box. Such a mischance has been known as, on an arrival, a servant
+coming in with the remains of this black box between his arms,
+saying--"Sir, should not this box have a bottom to it?" The chariot thus
+carried plenty of goods, and was a sort of family home on a journey. To
+go to Plymouth, which now can be done in six or seven hours, then
+occupied two long days, halting for the night to sleep at an inn.
+
+
+
+
+The Old Church
+
+
+Some of us can still remember the old Church and the old Sunday habits
+prevailing before 1830. The Churchyard was large and very pretty, though
+ill kept, surrounded with a very open railing, and with the banks sloping
+towards the water meadows clothed with fine elm trees--one with a large
+and curious excrescence on the bark. There was a deep porch on the south
+side of the Church, with seats on each side. Then, on red tiles, one
+entered between two blocks of pews of old brown unpainted oak (their
+doors are panels to the roof of the boys' school). In the space between
+them were two or three low benches for the children. There were three
+arches leading to the chancel, but that on the south side was closed by
+the pulpit and reading desk, and that on the north by a square pew
+belonging to Cranbury. Within the chancel on the north side was a large
+pew lined with red, belonging to Cranbury, and on the south, first the
+clerk's desk, then a narrow seat of the clergyman's, and then a large
+square pew. Boys in the morning and men in the afternoon used to sit on
+the benches placed outside these, and beyond was the rail shutting in the
+Altar, which was covered with red cloth, and stood below a large window,
+on each side of which were the Commandments in yellow letters on a blue
+ground, and on the wall were painted the two texts, "The Cup of Blessing,
+is it not the Communion of the Blood of Christ?" and "The Bread which we
+break, is it not the Communion of the Body of Christ?" The vestry was
+built out to the north, and was entered from the sanctuary.
+
+Further space was provided by two galleries, one on the north side,
+supported on iron poles, and entered from the outside by a step ladder
+studded with large square-headed nails to prevent it from being slippery.
+The other went across the west end, and was entered by a dark staircase
+leading up behind the pews, which further led to the little square
+weather-boarded tower containing two beautifully toned bells. These were
+rung from the outer gallery where the men sat. There was a part boarded
+off for the singers. The Font was nearly under the gallery. It was of
+white marble, and still lines our present Font. Tradition says it was
+given by a former clerk, perhaps Mr. Fidler, but there is no record of
+it. An older and much ruder Font was hidden away under the gallery
+stairs close to an old chest, where women sometimes found a seat, against
+the west wall.
+
+In those days, now more than half a century ago, when Archdeacon
+Heathcote was Vicar, he or his Curate used to ride over from Hursley on
+Sunday for the service at Otterbourne. There was only one service,
+alternately in the morning and afternoon, at half-past ten or at three,
+or in the winter at half-past two. The time was not much fixed, for on a
+new comer asking when the service would take place, the answer was "at
+half-past two, sir, or at three, or else no time at all," by which was
+meant no exact hour or half-hour. This uncertainty led to the bells
+never being rung till the minister was seen turning the corner of Kiln-
+lane, just where the large boulder stone used to be. The congregation
+was, however, collecting, almost all the men in white smocks with
+beautifully worked breasts and backs, the more well-to-do in velveteen;
+the women in huge bonnets. The elder ones wore black silk or satin
+bonnets, with high crowns and big fronts, the younger ones, straw with
+ribbon crossed over, always with a bonnet cap under. A red cloak was the
+regular old women's dress, or a black or blue one, and sometimes a square
+shawl, folded so as to make a triangle, over a gown of stuff in winter,
+print in summer. A blue printed cotton with white or yellow sprays was
+the regular week day dress, and the poorest wore it on Sundays. The
+little girls in the aisle had the like big coarse straw bonnets, with a
+strip of glazed calico hemmed and crossed over for strings, round
+tippets, and straight print frocks down to their feet. The boys were in
+small smocks, of either white or green canvas, with fustian or corduroy
+jackets or trowsers below, never cloth. Gloves and pocket handkerchiefs
+were hardly known among the children, hardly an umbrella, far less
+parasols or muffs. Ladies had pelisses for out-of-door wear, fitting
+close like ulsters, but made of dark green or purple silk or merino, and
+white worked dresses under them in summer.
+
+Well, the congregation got into Church--three families by the step ladder
+to one gallery, and the men into another, where the front row squeezed
+their knees through the rails and leant on the top bar, the rest of the
+world in the pews, and the children on benches. The clerk was in his
+desk behind the reading desk--good George Oxford, with his calm, good,
+gentle face, and tall figure, sadly lame from rheumatism caught when
+working in the brick kilns. His voice was always heard above the others
+in the responses, but our congregation never had dropped the habit of
+responding, and, though there was no chanting, the Amens and some of the
+Versicles used to have a grand full musical sound peculiar to that
+Church. People also all turned to the east for the Creed, few knelt, but
+some of the elder men stood during the prayers, and, though there was far
+too much _sitting down_ during the singing, every body got up and stood,
+if "Hallelujah" occurred, as it often did in anthems.
+
+There were eight or ten singers, and they had a bassoon, a flute, and a
+clarionet. They used to sing before the Communion Service in the
+morning, after the Second Lesson in the afternoon, and before each
+Sermon. Master Oxford had a good voice, and was wanted in the choir, so
+as soon as the General Thanksgiving began, he started off from his seat,
+and might be heard going the length of the nave, climbing the stairs, and
+crossing the outer gallery. Sometimes he took his long stick with him,
+and gave a good stripe across the straw bonnet of any particularly
+naughty child. In the gallery he proclaimed--"Let us sing to the praise
+and glory of God in the Psalm," then giving the first line.
+
+The Psalms were always from the New or Old Versions. A slate with the
+number in chalk was also hung out--23 O.V., 112 N.V., as the case might
+be. About four verses of each were sung, the last lines over and over
+again, some very oddly divided. For instance--
+
+ "Shall fix the place where we must dwell,
+ The pride of Jacob, His delight,"
+
+was sung thus:--
+
+ "The pride of Ja--the pride of Ja--the pride of Ja--" (at least three
+ times before the line was ended).
+
+But rough as these were, some of these Psalms were very dear to us all,
+specially the old twenty-third:--
+
+ "My Shepherd is the living Lord,
+ Nothing, therefore, I need,
+ In pastures fair, by pleasant streams
+ He setteth me to feed.
+
+ He shall convert and glad my soul,
+ And bring my soul in frame
+ To walk in paths of holiness,
+ For His most Holy Name.
+
+ I pass the gloomy vale of death,
+ From fear and danger free;
+ For there His guiding rod and staff
+ Defend and comfort me."
+
+Another much-loved one was the 121st:--
+
+ "To Zion's hill I lift my eyes,
+ From thence expecting aid,
+ From Zion's hill and Zion's God,
+ Who heaven and earth hath made.
+
+ Sheltered beneath the Almighty's wings,
+ Thou shall securely rest,
+ Where neither sun nor moon shall thee
+ By day nor night molest.
+
+ Then thou, my soul, in safety rest,
+ Thy Guardian will not sleep,
+ His watchful care, that Israel guards,
+ Shall Israel's monarch keep.
+
+ At home, abroad, in peace or war,
+ Thy God shall thee defend,
+ Conduct thee through life's pilgrimage,
+ Safe to thy journey's end."
+
+Will the sight of these lines bring back to any one the old tune, the old
+sounds, the old sights of the whitewashed Church, and old John Green in
+the gallery, singing with his bass voice, with all his might, his
+eyebrows moving as he sung? And then the Commandments and Ante-Communion
+read not from the Altar, but the desk; the surplice taken off in the desk
+instead of the Vestry; Master Oxford's announcements shouted out from his
+place, generally after the Second Lesson--"I hereby give notice that a
+Vestry Meeting will be held on Tuesday, at twelve o'clock, to make a new
+rate for the relief of the poo-oor." "I hereby give notice that Evening
+Service will be at half-past two as long as the winter days are short."
+Well, we should think these things odd now, and we have much to be
+thankful for in the changes; but there were holy and faithful ones then,
+and Master Oxford was one of them.
+
+In the days here described, from 1820 to 1827, few small villages had
+anything but dame schools, and Otterbourne children, such as had any
+schooling at all, were sent to Mrs. Yates's school on the hill, where she
+sat, the very picture of the old-fashioned mistress, in her black silk
+bonnet, with the children on benches before her, and her rod at hand.
+
+Several families, however, did not send the children to school at all,
+and there were many who could not read, many more who could not write,
+and there was very little religious teaching, except that in the Sunday
+afternoons in Lent, the catechism was said in Church by the best
+instructed children, but without any explanation.
+
+About the year 1819 Mrs. Bargus and her daughter came to live at
+Otterbourne, and in 1822 Miss Bargus married William Crawley Yonge, who
+had retired from the army, after serving in the Peninsula and at
+Waterloo. Both Mr. and Mrs. Yonge had clergymen for their fathers, and
+were used to think much of the welfare of their neighbours. It was not,
+however, till 1823 that Mrs. Yonge saw her way to beginning a little
+Sunday School for girls, teaching it all by herself, in a room by what is
+now Mr. J. Misselbrook's house. While there was still only one Service
+on Sundays, she kept the school on the vacant half of the day, reading
+the Psalms and Lessons to the children, who were mostly biggish girls.
+This was when Archdeacon Heathcote was the Vicar of Hursley and
+Otterbourne, and the Rev. Robert Shuckburgh was his Curate. Archdeacon
+and Mrs. Heathcote, who were most kind and liberal, gave every help and
+assisted in setting up the Clothing Club.
+
+Mrs. Yonge's first list of Easter prizes contains twenty names of girls,
+and the years that have passed have left but few of them here. A large
+Bible bound in plain brown leather was the highest prize; Prayer Books,
+equally unornamented, New Testaments, and Psalters, being books
+containing only the Psalms and Matins and Evensong, were also given, and
+were then, perhaps, more highly valued than the dainty little coloured
+books every one now likes to have for Sunday. Then there were frocks,
+coarse straw bonnets, and sometimes pocket handkerchiefs, for these were
+not by any means such universal possessions as could be wished, and only
+came out on Sunday. As to gloves, silk handkerchiefs, parasols, muffs,
+or even umbrellas, the children thought them as much out of their reach
+as a set of pearls or diamonds, but what was worse, their outer clothing
+was very insufficent, seldom more than a thin cotton frock and tippet,
+and the grey duffle cloaks, which were thought a great possession, were
+both slight and scanty.
+
+About 1826, Mrs. Yonge was looking at the bit of waste land that had once
+served as a roadway to the field at the back of Otterbourne House, when
+she said, "How I wish I had money enough to build a school here." "Well,"
+said Mrs. Bargus, "You shall have what I can give." The amount was
+small, but with it Mr. Yonge contrived to put up one room with two new
+small ones at the back, built of mud rough cast, and with a brick floor,
+except for the little bedroom being raised a step, and boarded.
+
+The schoolroom was intended to hold all the children who did not go to
+Mrs. Yates, both boys and girls, and it was sufficient, for, in the first
+place, nobody from Fryern-hill came. Mrs. Green had a separate little
+school there. Then the age for going to school was supposed to be six.
+If anyone sent a child younger, the fee was threepence instead of a
+penny. The fee for learning writing and arithmetic was threepence, for
+there was a general opinion that they were of little real use, and that
+writing letters would waste time (as it sometimes certainly does).
+Besides this, the eldest daughter of a family was always minding the
+baby, and never went to school; and boys were put to do what their
+mothers called "keeping a few birds" when very small indeed, while other
+families were too rough to care about education so that the numbers were
+seldom over thirty.
+
+There were no such people as trained mistresses then. The National
+Society had a school for masters, but they were expensive and could only
+be employed in large towns; so all that could be looked for was a kind,
+motherly, good person who could read and do needlework well. And the
+first mistress was Mrs. Creswick, a pleasant-looking person with a pale
+face and dark eyes, who had been a servant at Archdeacon Heathcote's, and
+had since had great troubles. She did teach the Catechism, reading, and
+work when the children were tolerably good and obeyed her, but boys were
+a great deal too much for her, and she had frail health, and such a bad
+leg that she never could walk down the lane to the old Church. So, after
+Sunday School, the children used to straggle down to Church without
+anyone to look after them, and sit on the benches in the aisle and do
+pretty much what they pleased, except when admonished by Master Oxford's
+stick.
+
+Mr. Shuckburgh had by this time come to reside in the parish, in the
+house which is now the post-office, and there was at last a double
+Service on the Sunday.
+
+The next thing was to consider what was to be done about the boys, who
+could not be made to mind Mrs. Creswick. A row of the biggest sat at the
+back of the school, with their heels to the wall, and by constant kicking
+had almost knocked a hole through the mud wall; so the Vicar, who was now
+the Archdeacon's son, the Rev. Gilbert Wall Heathcote, gave permission
+for the putting up another mud and rough cast school house near the old
+Church, for the boys, in an empty part of the Churchyard to the north-
+east, where no one had ever been buried.
+
+However, there Master Oxford was installed as schoolmaster, coming all
+the way down from his house on the hill (a pretty-timbered cottage, now
+pulled down). He and his boys had a long way to walk to their school,
+but he taught them all he knew and set them a good example. The boys
+were all supposed to go to him at six years old, and most were proud of
+the promotion. One little fellow was known to go to bed an hour or two
+earlier that he might be six years old the sooner! But some dreaded the
+good order enforced by the stick. There was one boy in particular, who
+had outgrown the girls' school, and was very troublesome there. He would
+not go to the boys', and his mother would not make him, saying she feared
+he would fall into the water. "Well," said Mrs. Bargus, who was a most
+bright, kindly old lady of eighty, "I'll make him go." So she took a
+large piece of yellow glazed calico intended for furniture lining, walked
+up to school, and held it up to the little boy. She said she heard that
+he would only go to the girls' school, and, since everybody went there in
+petticoats, she had brought some stuff to make him a petticoat too! The
+young man got up and walked straight off to the boys' school.
+
+Here are some verses, written by Mrs. Yonge in 1838, on one of the sights
+that met her eye in the old Churchyard:--
+
+ While on the ear the solemn note
+ Of prayer and praises heavenward float,
+ A butterfly with brilliant wings
+ A lesson full of meaning brings,
+ A sermon to the eye.
+
+ There on an infant's grave it stands,
+ For it hath burst the shroud's dull bands,
+ Its vile worm's body there is left,
+ Of gross earth's habits now bereft
+ It soars into the sky.
+
+ Thus when the grave her dead shall give
+ The little form below shall live,
+ Clothed in a robe of dazzling white
+ Shall spring aloft on wings of light,
+ To realms above shall fly!
+
+Changes were setting in all this time. The rick-burnings, in which so
+many foolish persons indulged, was going on in 1831 in many parts of
+Hampshire. They were caused partly by dislike to the threshing machines
+that were beginning to be used, and partly by the notion that such
+disturbances would lead to the passing of the Reform Bill, which ignorant
+men believed would give every poor man a fat pig in his stye. There was
+no rick-burning here, though some of the villagers joined the bands of
+men who wandered about the country demanding money and arms at the large
+houses. But, happily, none of them were actually engaged in any
+violence, and none of them swelled the calendar of the Special Assize
+that took place at Winchester for the trial of the rioters.
+
+One poor maid-servant in the parish, from the North of Hampshire, had,
+however, two brothers, who were intelligent men of some education, and
+who, having been ringleaders, were both sentenced to death. The sentence
+was, however, commuted to transportation for life. At Sydney, being of a
+very different class from the ordinary convict, they prospered greatly,
+and their letters were very interesting. They were wonderful feats of
+penmanship, for postage from Australia was ruinously expensive, and they
+filled sheets of paper with writing that could hardly be read without a
+microscope. If we had those letters now they would be curious records of
+the early days of the Colony, but all now recollected is the account of a
+little kangaroo jumping into a hunter's open shirt, thinking it was his
+mother's pouch.
+
+The Reform Bill, after all, when passed made no present difference in
+Otterbourne life--nothing like the difference that a measure a few years
+after effected, namely, the Poor-law Amendment Bill. Not many people
+here remember the days of the old Poor-law, when whatever a pauper family
+wanted was supplied from the rates, and thus an idle man often lived more
+at his ease on other people's money than an industrious man on his own
+earnings. It was held that if wages were small they might be helped out
+of the rates, and thus the ratepayers were often ruined. In the midst of
+the street stood the old Poorhouse. It had no governor nor anyone to see
+that order was kept or work done there, and everybody that was homeless,
+or lazy, or disreputable, drifted in there. They went in and out as they
+pleased, and had a weekly allowance of money. Now and then there was a
+great row among them. One room was inhabited by an old man named Strong,
+who was considered a wonder because he ate adders cut up like eels and
+stewed with a bit of bacon. Every now and then a message would come in
+that old Strong had got a couple of nice adders and wanted a bit of bacon
+to cook with them. Then there was a large family whose father never
+worked for any one long together, and lived in the Workhouse, with a wife
+and six or seven children, supported by the parish. These people were
+pursuaded to go to Manchester, where there was sure to be work in the
+factories for all their many girls. The men in receipt of parish pay
+were supposed to have work found for them on the roads, but there was not
+much of this to employ them, and as they were paid all the same whether
+they worked or not, some were said to hammer the stones as if they were
+afraid of hurting them, or to make the wheeling a couple of barrows of
+chalk their whole day's work.
+
+A good deal depended on the vestry management of each parish, and there
+was less of flagrant idleness supported by the rates here than at many
+places. There was also a well-built and arranged Workhouse at Hursley,
+and the Poor law Commissioners consented to make one small Union of
+Hursley, Otterbourne, Farley, and Baddesley, instead of throwing them
+into a large one.
+
+The discontinuance of out-door relief to help out the wages was a great
+shock at first, but, when the ratepayers were no longer weighed down,
+they could give more work and better wages, and the labourers thus
+profited in the end, and likewise began to learn more independence. Still
+the times were hard then. Few families could get on unless the mother as
+well as the father did field work, and thus she had no time to attend
+thoroughly to making home comfortable, mending the clothes, or taking
+care of the little ones. The eldest girl was kept at home dragging about
+with the baby, and often grew rough as well as ignorant, and the cottage
+was often very little cared for. The notion of what was comfortable and
+suitable was very different then.
+
+The country began to be intersected by railways, and the South-Western
+line was marked out to Southampton. The course was dug out from Shawford
+and Compton downs, and the embankment made along our valley. It was
+curious to see the white line creeping on, as carts filled with chalk ran
+from the diggings to the end, tipped over their contents, and returned
+again. When the foundations were dug for the arch spanning the lane the
+holes filled with water as fast as they were made, and nothing could be
+done till the two long ditches had been dug to carry off the water to
+Allbrook. In the course of making them in the light peaty earth, some
+bones of animals and (I believe) stags' horns were found, but unluckily,
+were thrown away, instead of being shown to anyone who would have made
+out from them much of the history of the formation of the boggy earth
+that forms the water meadows.
+
+{The Old Church, Otterbourne: p32.jpg}
+
+It is amusing to remember the kind of dread that was felt at first of
+railway travelling. It was thought that the engines would blow up, and,
+as an old coachman is reported to have said, "When a coach is overturned,
+there you are; but when an engine blows up, where are you?" He certainly
+was so far right that a coach accident was fatal to fewer persons than a
+railway accident generally is.
+
+The railway passed so near the old Church that the noise of the trains
+would be inconvenient on Sundays. At least, so thought those with
+inexperienced ears, though many a Church has since been built much nearer
+to the line. However, this fixed the purpose that had already been
+forming, of endeavouring to build a new Church. The first idea had been
+of trying to raise 300 pounds to enlarge the old Church, but the distance
+from the greater part of the parish was so inconvenient, and the railroad
+so near, that the building of a new Church was finally decided on. There
+really was not room for the men and boys at the same time on the backless
+forms they occupied between the pews in the chancel. Moreover, if a
+person was found sitting in a place to which another held that he or she
+had a right, the owner never thought of looking for another place
+elsewhere, and the one who was turned out went away displeased, and
+declared that it was impossible to come to church for fear of "being
+upset." It is strange and sad that people are so prone to forget what
+our Master told us about "taking the highest room," even in His own
+House.
+
+But besides the want of accommodation, the old Church was at an
+inconvenient distance from the parish. No doubt there had once been more
+houses near, but when the cottage inhabited by old Aaron Chalk was pulled
+down, nothing remained near but Otterbourne Farm and the Moat House.
+Every one living elsewhere had to walk half a mile, some much more, and
+though Kiln Lane was then much better shaded with fine trees than it is
+now, it was hard work on a hot or wet Sunday to go twice. Some of us may
+recollect one constant churchgoer, John Rogers, who was so lame as to
+require two sticks to walk with, and had to set out an hour beforehand,
+yet who seldom missed.
+
+Just at this time the Reverend John Keble became Vicar of Hursley, and
+Otterbourne, and forwarded the plan of church building with all his
+might.
+
+Few new churches had been built at that time, so that there was
+everything to be learnt, while subscriptions were being collected from
+every quarter. Magdalen College, at Oxford, gave the site as well as a
+handsome subscription, and every endeavour was made to render the new
+building truly church like. It was during the building that Dr. Rowth,
+the President of Magdalen College, coming to hold his court at the Moat
+House, had the model of the church brought out to him and took great
+interest in it. He is worth remembering, for he was one of the wisest
+and most learned men in Oxford, and he lived to be nearly a hundred years
+old. Church building was a much more difficult thing then than it is
+now, when there are many architects trained in the principles of church
+building, and materials of all kinds are readily provided.
+
+The cross form was at once fixed on as most suitable; and the little bell
+turret was copied from one at a place called Corston. Mr. Owen Carter,
+an architect at Winchester, drew the plans, with the constant watching
+and direction of Mr. Yonge, who attended to every detail. The white
+stone, so fit for carving decorations, which had been used in the
+Cathedral, is imported from Caen, in Normandy. None had been brought
+over for many years, till a correspondence was opened with the people at
+the quarries, and blocks bought for the reredos and font. Now it is
+constantly used.
+
+The panels of the pulpit, with the carvings of the Blessed Virgin, and
+the four Latin fathers, SS. Ambrose, Augustine, Jerome, and Gregory the
+Great, were found in a shop for antiquities in London. The shape was
+adapted to a sounding board, which had been made for the Cathedral, but
+was rejected there. The altar-rail also was found in a shop. It must
+previously have been in a church, as it has the sacramental corn and
+grapes. It is thought to be old Flemish work, and represents a prince on
+one side with a crown laid down, as he kneels in devotion, and some
+ladies on the opposite side. The crown is an Emperor's, and there is the
+collar of the Golden Fleece round his neck, so that it is probably meant
+for either the Emperor Maximilian or his grandson, Charles V. One of the
+gentlemen kneeling behind the Emperor has a beautiful face of adoration.
+
+The building of the Church took about two years, the first stone being
+laid at the north-east corner. It was begun on the 16th of May, 1837,
+and it was ready for consecration on the 30th of July, 1839. The
+building had been prosperous, the only accident being the crushing of a
+thumb when the pulpit was set in its place.
+
+The new boys' school was built at the same time, the archway of the south
+door of the old Church being used for the doorway, so as to preserve the
+beautiful and peculiar decoration, and the roof was lined with the doors
+and backs of the old oak-pewing. In the flints collected for the
+building of this and of the wall round the churchyard there was a water
+wagtail's nest in which a young cuckoo was reared, having, of course,
+turned out the rightful nestling. Probably it flew safely, for the last
+time it was seen its foster parents were luring it out with green
+caterpillars held a little way from the nest.
+
+The expense of the building of the boys' school and of a new room for the
+girls was defrayed chiefly by a bazaar held at Winchester. There were at
+that time no Education Acts nor Government requirements, and the
+buildings would be deemed entirely unfit at this time even for the
+numbers who then used them, and who did not amount to more than between
+thirty and forty boys and fifty or sixty girls and infants, together
+about a third of the present numbers at school in Otterbourne and
+Allbrook. Miss Tucker was then the mistress; Master Oxford still the
+master.
+
+The Church was consecrated on the 30th of July, 1839, by Bishop Sumner,
+who preached a sermon on the text, "No man careth for my soul," warning
+us that we could not plead such an excuse for ourselves, if we neglected
+to walk in the right way.
+
+One of the earliest funerals in the churchyard was that of good old
+Oxford, old, as he was called, because he was crippled by rheumatism, but
+he was only fifty-two. He lies buried near the south gate of the
+churchyard under a large slate recording his name.
+
+He was followed in his office by Mr. William Stainer, who had hitherto
+been known as a baker, living in the house which is now Mr. James
+Godwin's. His bread was excellent, and he was also noted for what were
+called Otterbourne buns, the art of making which seems to have gone with
+him. They were small fair-complexioned buns, which stuck together in
+parties of three, and when soaked, expanded to twice or three times their
+former size. He used to send them once or twice a week to Winchester.
+But though baking was his profession, he did much besides. He was a real
+old-fashioned herbalist, and had a curious book on the virtues of plants,
+and he made decoctions of many kinds, which he administered to those in
+want of medicine. Before the Poor Law provided Union doctors, medical
+advice, except at the hospital, was almost out of reach of the poor. Mr.
+and Mrs. Yonge, like almost all other beneficent gentlefolks in villages,
+kept a medicine chest and book, and doctored such cases as they could
+venture on, and Mr. Stainer was in great favour as practitioner, as many
+of our elder people can remember. He was exceedingly charitable and
+kind, and ready to give his help so far as he could. He was a great
+lover of flowers, and had contrived a sort of little greenhouse over the
+great oven at the back of his house, and there he used to bring up lovely
+geraniums and other flowers, which he sometimes sold. He was a deeply
+religious and devout man, and during Master Oxford's illness took his
+place in Church, which was more important when there was no choir and the
+singers sat in the gallery. He was very happy in this office, moving
+about on felt shoes that he might make no noise, and most reverently
+keeping the Church clean and watching over it in every way. He also
+continued in the post of schoolmaster, which at first he had only taken
+temporarily, giving up part of his business to his nephew. But he still
+sat up at night baking, and he also had other troubles: there was
+insanity in his family, and he was much harassed.
+
+His kindness and simplicity were sometimes abused. He never had the
+heart to refuse to lend money, or to deny bread on credit to hopeless
+debtors; and altogether debts, distress, baking all night, and school
+keeping all day, were too much for him. The first hint of an examination
+of his school completed the mischief, and he died insane. It is a sad
+story, but many of us will remember with affectionate regard the good,
+kind, quaint, and most excellent little man. By that time our
+schoolmistress was Mrs. Durndell, the policeman's wife, a severe woman,
+but she certainly made the girls do thoroughly whatever she taught,
+especially repetition and needlework.
+
+The examiner on religious subjects, Mr. Allen, afterwards an Archdeacon,
+reported that the girls had an unusual knowledge of the text of
+Scripture, but that he did not think them equally intelligent as to the
+meaning.
+
+Daily Service had been commenced when the new Church was opened, and the
+children of the schools attended it. There was also a much larger
+congregation of old men than have ever come in later years. At one time
+there were nine constantly there. One of these, named Passingham, who
+used to ring the bell for matins and evensong, was said to have been the
+strongest man in the parish, and to have carried two sacks of corn over
+the common on the top of the hill in his youth. He was still a hearty
+old man at eighty-six, when after ringing the bell one morning as usual,
+he dropped down on the hill in a fit and died in a few seconds.
+
+There was not much change for a good many years. In 1846, the Parsonage
+House was built and given to the living by Mr. Keble. The stained glass
+of the south window of the Church was given by the Reverend John Yonge,
+of Puslinch, Rector of Newton Ferrers, in Devonshire, in memory of his
+youngest son, Edmund Charles, who died at Otterbourne House in 1847.
+Thirteen years previously, in 1834, the eldest son, James Yonge, had
+likewise died at Otterbourne House. Both the brothers lie buried here,
+one in the old churchyard, one in the new. They are commemorated in
+their own church at Newton by a tablet with the inscription--"What I do
+thou knowest not now, but thou shall know hereafter."
+
+In 1834 their father gave what made, as it were the second foundation of
+the Lending Library, for there were about four-and-twenty very serious
+books, given in Archdeacon Heathcote's time, kept in the vestry at the
+old Church. They looked as if they had been read but only by the elder
+people who liked a grave book, and there was nothing there meant for the
+young people. So there were a good many new books bought, and weekly
+given out at the Penny Club, with more or less vigour, for the next
+thirty years or so.
+
+The next public matter that greatly affected this place was the Crimean
+War. It was a large proportion of our young men who were more or less
+concerned in it. Captain Denzill Chamberlayne in the Cavalry, Lieut.
+Julian B. Yonge, John Hawkins, Joseph Knight, James and William Mason,
+and it was in the midst of the hurry and confusion of the departure that
+the death of Mr. W. C. Yonge took place, February 26th, 1854. Three of
+those above mentioned lived to return home. Captain Chamberlayne shared
+in the famous charge of the Light Brigade, at Balaclava, when
+
+ Into the jaws of death
+ Rode the six hundred:
+ Cannon to right of them,
+ Cannon to left of them,
+ Volleyed and thundered.
+
+His horse, Pimento, was killed under him, but he escaped without a wound,
+and on his return home was drawn up to the house by the people, and had a
+reception which made such an impression on the children that when one was
+asked in school what a hero was, she answered, "Captain Chamberlayne."
+
+John Hawkins, Joseph Knight, and William Mason died in the Crimea. A
+tablet to commemorate them was built into the wall of the churchyard,
+with the text--"It is good for a man that he bear the yoke in his youth,"
+for the discipline of the army had been very good for these youths, and,
+therefore, this verse was chosen for them by Mr. Keble.
+
+The next event that concerned the parish much was the death of the great
+and holy man who had been our rector for thirty years. Mr. Keble died at
+Bournemouth on the 29th of March, 1866. His manners and language were
+always so simple, and his humility so great, that many of those who came
+in contact with him never realized how great a man he was, not being able
+to perceive that the very deepest thoughts might be clothed in the
+plainest language. Some felt, in the words of the poem,--
+
+ "I came and saw, and having seen,
+ Weak heart! I drew offence
+ From thy prompt smile, thy humble mien,
+ Thy lowly diligence."
+
+But none who really knew him could fail to be impressed with the sense of
+his power, his wisdom, his love, and, above all, his holiness; and his
+_Christian Year_ will always be a fund of consolation, full of
+suggestions of good and devotional thoughts and deeds. Mrs. Keble, who
+was already very ill, followed him to her rest on the 11th of May. It
+may be worth remembering that the last time she wrote her name was a
+signature to a petition against licensing marriage with a deceased wife's
+sister.
+
+Sir William Heathcote then appointed the Reverend James G. Young as Vicar
+of Hursley and Otterbourne. A fresh tide of change began to set in. As
+times altered and population increased, and as old things and people
+passed away, there were various changes in the face of the village. The
+Government requirements made it necessary to erect a new Girl's School,
+and land was permanently secured for the purpose, and this was done
+chiefly by subscription among the inhabitants, affording a room large
+enough for parish meetings and lectures, as well as for its direct
+purpose. The subscription was as a testimonial to the Rev. William Bigg-
+Wither, who had been thirty years curate of the parish, and under whom
+many of the changes for the better were worked out. The building was
+provided with a tower, in case there should ever be a clock given to the
+parish.
+
+The clock was given in a manner worthy of remembrance. Mr. William Pink,
+as a thatcher, and his two sisters in service, had saved enough to
+provide for their old age, and to leave a considerable overplus, out of
+which the last survivor, Mrs. Elizabeth Pink, when passing away at a good
+old age, bequeathed enough to provide the parish with the clock whose
+voice has already become one of our most familiar sounds.
+
+Allbrook was by this time growing into a large hamlet, and a school
+chapel was then built, chiefly by Mr. Wheeler. We must not forget that
+we had for five years the great and excellent Samuel Wilberforce for our
+Bishop, and that he twice held confirmations in our parish. No one can
+forget the shock of his sudden call. One moment he was calling his
+companion's attention to the notes of a late singing nightingale; the
+next, his horse had stumbled and he was gone. It was remarkable that
+shortly before he had, after going over the hospital, spoken with dread
+of what he called the "humiliation of a lingering illness"--exactly what
+he was spared.
+
+Bishop Harold Browne came from Ely to take the See of Winchester. He
+reconsecrated our church when the chancel was enlarged and the new aisle
+added. He carried on vigorously work only begun under Bishop
+Wilberforce. Under him Diocesan Synods, the Girls' Friendly Society, and
+the Examination of Senior Scholars in Religious Knowledge have all shown
+his diligent oversight as Shepherd of the flock.
+
+In the year 1875 Sir William Heathcote succeeded in bringing about an
+arrangement by which Otterbourne could be separated from Hursley and have
+a Vicar of its own, the difference of income being made up to the Vicar
+of Hursley. This was done by the aid of a munificent lady, Mrs. Gibbs,
+the widow of one of the great merchant princes, whose wealth was always
+treated as a trust from God. She became the patron of the living, and
+the advowson remains in her family.
+
+The first Vicar was the Reverend Walter Francis Elgie, who had already
+been six years curate, and had won the love and honour of all his flock.
+Deeply did they all mourn him when it was God's will to take him from
+them on the 25th of February, 1881, in the 43rd year of his age, after
+ten years of zealous work.
+
+It was felt as remarkable that a young pupil teacher in consumption, whom
+he had sent to the Home at Bournemouth, was taken on the same day, and
+buried here the day after, and that the schoolmaster, Walter Fisher, a
+man of gentle and saintly nature, followed him six weeks after.
+
+ We left them in the Church's shade,
+ Our standard-bearer true,
+ And near at hand the gentle maid
+ Who well his guidance knew.
+
+ He fainted in the noon of life,
+ Nor knew his victory won;
+ She was fresh girded for the strife,
+ Her battle scarce begun.
+
+ Long had we known Death's angel hand
+ The maiden's brow had seal'd;
+ He fell, like chief of warrior band,
+ Struck down on battle-field.
+
+ So in God's acre here they meet
+ As they have met above,
+ Tasting beneath their Saviour's feet
+ The treasures of His love.
+
+ For what they learnt and taught of here
+ Is present with them there;
+ May we speed on in faith and fear,
+ Then heavenly rest to share.
+
+With the coming of our present Vicar, the Rev. H. W. Brock, our
+Otterbourne story ends, as the times are no longer _old times_. The
+water works for the supply of Southampton are our last novelty, by which
+such of us benefit, as either themselves or their landlords pay a small
+contribution. They have given us some red buildings at one end and on
+the Hill a queer little round tower containing the staircase leading to
+the underground reservoir, a wonderful construction of circles of brick
+pillars and arches, as those remember who visited it before the water was
+let in. And, verily, we may be thankful that our record has so few
+events in it, no terrible disasters, but that there has been peace and
+health and comfort, more than falls to the lot of many a parish. Truly
+we may thankfully say, "The lot is fallen unto me in a fair ground, yea,
+I have a goodly heritage."
+
+{Birds on fence: p42.jpg}
+
+
+
+
+Old Remembrances.
+
+
+{Bridges over river: p43.jpg}
+
+I remember, I remember,
+ Old times at Otterbourne,
+Before the building of the Church,
+ And when smock frocks were worn!
+
+I remember, I remember,
+ When railroads there were none,
+When by stage coach at early dawn
+ The journey was begun.
+
+And through the turnpike roads till eve
+ Trotted the horses four,
+With inside passengers and out
+ They carried near a score.
+
+"Red Rover" and the "Telegraph,"
+ We knew them all by name,
+And Mason's and the Oxford coach,
+ Full thirty of them came.
+
+The coachman wore his many capes,
+ The guard his bugle blew;
+The horses were a gallant sight,
+ Dashing upon our view.
+
+I remember, I remember,
+ The posting days of old;
+The yellow chariot lined with blue
+ And lace of colour gold.
+
+The post-boys' jackets blue or buff,
+ The inns upon the road;
+The hills up which we used to walk
+ To lighten thus the load.
+
+The rattling up before the inn,
+ The horses led away,
+The post-boy as he touched his hat
+ And came to ask his pay.
+
+The perch aloft upon the box,
+ Delightful for the view;
+The turnpike gates whose keepers stood
+ Demanding each his due.
+
+I remember, I remember,
+ When ships were beauteous things,
+The floating castles of the deep
+ Borne upon snow-white wings;
+
+Ere iron-clads and turret ships,
+ Ugly as evil dream,
+Became the hideous progeny
+ Of iron and of steam.
+
+You crossed the Itchen ferry
+ All in an open boat,
+Now, on a panting hissing bridge
+ You scarcely seem afloat.
+
+Southampton docks were sheets of mud,
+ Grim colliers at the quay.
+No tramway, and no slender pier
+ To stretch into the sea.
+
+I remember, I remember,
+ Long years ere Rowland Hill,
+When letters covered quarto sheets
+ Writ with a grey goose quill;
+
+Both hard to fold and hard to read,
+ Crossed to the scarlet seal;
+Hardest of all to pay for ere
+ Their news they might reveal.
+
+No stamp with royal head was there,
+ But eightpence was the sum
+For every letter, all alike,
+ That did from London come!
+
+I remember, I remember,
+ The mowing of the hay;
+Scythes sweeping through the heavy grass
+ At breaking of the day.
+
+The haymakers in merry ranks
+ Tossing the swaths so sweet,
+The haycocks tanning olive-brown
+ In glowing summer heat.
+
+The reapers 'mid the ruddy wheat,
+ The thumping of the flail,
+The winnowing within the barn
+ By whirling round a sail.
+
+Long ere the whirr, and buz, and rush
+ Became a harvest sound,
+Or monsters trailed their tails of spikes,
+ Or ploughed the fallow ground.
+
+Our sparks flew from the flint and steel,
+ No lucifers were known,
+Snuffers with tallow candles came
+ To prune the wick o'ergrown.
+
+Hands did the work of engines then,
+ But now some new machine
+Must hatch the eggs, and sew the seams,
+ And make the cakes, I ween.
+
+I remember, I remember,
+ The homely village school,
+The dame with spelling book and rod,
+ The sceptre of her rule.
+
+A black silk bonnet on her head,
+ Buff kerchief on her neck,
+With spectacles upon her nose,
+ And apron of blue check.
+
+Ah, then were no inspection days,
+ No standards then were known,
+Children could freely make dirt pies,
+ And learning let alone!
+
+Those Sundays I remember too,
+ When Service there was one;
+For living in the parish then
+ Of clergy there were none.
+
+And oh, I can recall to mind,
+ The Church and every pew;
+William and Mary's royal arms
+ Hung up in fullest view.
+
+The lion smiling, with his tongue
+ Like a pug dog's hung out;
+The unicorn with twisted horn
+ Brooding upon his rout.
+
+Exalted in the gallery high
+ The tuneful village choir,
+With flute, bassoon, and clarionet,
+ Their notes rose high and higher.
+
+They shewed the number of the Psalm
+ In white upon a slate,
+And many a time the last lines sung
+ Of Brady and of Tate.
+
+While far below upon the floor
+ Along the narrow aisle,
+The children on then benches sat
+ Arranged in single file
+
+And there the clerk would stump along
+ And strike with echoing blow
+Each idle guilty little head
+ That chattered loud or low.
+
+Ah! I remember many things,
+ Old middle-aged, and new;
+Is the new better than the old,
+ More bright, more wise, more true?
+
+The old must ever pass away,
+ The new must still come in;
+When these new things are old to you
+ Be they unstained by sin.
+
+So will their memory be sweet,
+ A treasury of bliss
+To be borne with us in the days
+ When we their presence miss.
+
+Trifles connected with the love
+ Of many a vanished friend
+Will thrill the heart and wake the sense,
+ For memory has no end!
+
+{Flowers: p46.jpg}
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OLD TIMES AT OTTERBOURNE***
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