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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/24635-8.txt b/24635-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a0928e9 --- /dev/null +++ b/24635-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1829 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Exeter, by Sidney Heath + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Exeter + +Author: Sidney Heath + +Illustrator: E. W. Haslehust + +Release Date: February 18, 2008 [EBook #24635] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXETER *** + + + + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/Canadian +Libraries) + + + + + + + + +[Illustration: EXETER FROM THE CANAL] + + +EXETER + +Described by Sidney Heath + +Pictured by E. W. Haslehust + +[Illustration] + +BLACKIE AND SON LIMITED LONDON, GLASGOW AND BOMBAY 1912 + + + +Beautiful England + +_Volumes Ready_ + + OXFORD + THE ENGLISH LAKES + CANTERBURY + SHAKESPEARE-LAND + THE THAMES + WINDSOR CASTLE + CAMBRIDGE + NORWICH AND THE BROADS + THE HEART OF WESSEX + THE PEAK DISTRICT + THE CORNISH RIVIERA + DICKENS-LAND + WINCHESTER + THE ISLE OF WIGHT + CHESTER + YORK + THE NEW FOREST + HAMPTON COURT + EXETER + +_Uniform with this Series_ + +Beautiful Ireland + + LEINSTER + ULSTER + MUNSTER + CONNAUGHT + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS + + + Page + + Exeter from the Canal _Frontispiece_ + + The Quay 8 + + Guildhall Porch 14 + + Mol's Coffee House 20 + + Rougemont Castle 26 + + St. Mary Steps 32 + + The Cathedral from the Palace Grounds 38 + + The Sanctuary, Exeter Cathedral 42 + + Old Courtyard in the Close 46 + + The Abbot's Lodge 50 + + The Exe at Topsham 54 + + Countess Weir 58 + + + Plan of Exeter Cathedral 4 + +[Illustration: Plan of Exeter Cathedral + + A. Lady Chapel. + B. Choir. + C. Screen. + D. North Transept. + E. South Transept. + F. Chapter House. + G. Nave. + H. North Porch. + I. Bishop's Throne.] + + + + +[Illustration: EXETER] + +THE CITY + + +Just as the five cities of Colchester, Lincoln, York, Gloucester, and +St. Albans, stand on the sites and in some fragmentary measure bear the +names of five Roman municipalities, so Isca Dumnoniorum, now Exeter, +appears to have been a cantonal capital developed out of one of the +great market centres of the Celtic tribes, and as such it was the most +westerly of the larger Romano-British towns. The legendary history of +the place, both temporal and ecclesiastical, goes far back to the days +when, for a late posterity, it is difficult to separate fact from fable. +It is, however, quite established that here was the capital of the +Dumnonii, the British tribe whose dominions included both Devonshire and +Cornwall, and who named their capital _Caer-uisc_, the city of the +waters. + +With the coming of the Saxons, the river, the Roman Isca, became the +Exa, and the city was called Exanceaster, modified in due course to +Exeter. + +In point of position, on a mound rising from the river, it was a +splendid site for a fortress in the days of hand-to-hand warfare, and +the military value of the site lends support to the statement of some +writers that the Romans utilized the British fortifications and built a +castle. In few places of its size can one see so clearly the extent of +the old walled town, while the disposition and formation of its outer +ring of houses, on the lower slopes of the mound, show very clearly the +limits of the mural circumvallation before the city burst asunder its +tight-fitting belt of stone, within which, for the safety of its +populace, it had been imprisoned for centuries. + +Climb the higher parts for a bird's-eye view of the city, and the scene +is entrancing. We look down upon the calm-flowing Exe threading its way +through the valley till it debouches at Exmouth; on the riverside +beneath us is the quay, with coasting schooners and barges moored +alongside, and sundry bales of merchandise heaped upon the wharf, as +though the people were playing at commerce to remind the world at large +that Exeter was once an important port, although some ten miles from the +river's mouth. + +But the Exe, in a quiet way, has much to boast of in the nature of +beauty and romance, particularly where it flows past the wooded grounds +of Powderham Castle, the Devonshire seat of the great Courtenay family. +Truly there is much to redeem modern Exeter and make it interesting over +and above its historical atmosphere. Yet with comparatively few vestiges +of age the city has an historical past. In both a religious and a +military sense she has played a part in the annals of England, and more +than one ancient document in the Library of the Dean and Chapter bears +testimony to her honour, her valour, and her glory. + +It is a city which has the impress of many ages and many minds stamped +upon it. Here each influence--military from the Roman legions, +ecclesiastical from the Saxon prelates, feudal from the Norman +lords--has sunk deeply into the land, and has affected the general plan +of the numerous buildings, as it has moulded the slowly succeeding +phases of the civic and the religious life. It is no mere dream of the +early ages, no sentimental reverie of mediævalism. It is enough to go +through the streets, noting the remnants of the ancient walls, the +brutal strength of the surviving fragment of the castle, the sheltered +position of the tidal basin, the many churches dedicated to the honour +of Saxon saints, the proud beauty and massiveness of the Cathedral, if +one would realize, not the fancies of the artist and the poet, but the +hard facts of history that made the ancient days so great, and which +have caused our own days to be so full of their memories. + +As compared with the sister counties of Cornwall and Dorset, Devonshire +is not particularly well represented in memorials of the Roman +occupation, although an immense number of Roman coins have been +unearthed at various times. Coins, however, unless found with definite +structural remains, indicate presence rather than a settled occupation, +for large quantities of the Roman coinage must have continued in +circulation long after the last of the legions of imperial Rome had +departed from British shores. The few Roman antiquities of Exeter that +have been found are important in a comparative sense, although they +contrast poorly in structural character with those of our other +Romano-British towns. It has been held that not only were the +foundations of the city walls Roman, but part of the existing remains of +Rougemont Castle have also been assigned to this period. + +Mr. L. Davidson was of opinion that the old church tower of St. Mary +Major (now removed) exhibited traces of Roman work, and foundations +presumed to be Roman were noted by him as having been found at the +corner of Castle Street and High Street, in St. Mary Arches Street, +Bedford Circus, Market Street, South Street, and Mint Lane. + +[Illustration: THE QUAY] + +In 1836 more definite structural remains were found in High Street, +consisting of a family sepulchral vault, 7 feet square, arched over, and +containing five coarse cinerary urns arranged in niches around its +interior. This was discovered behind the "Three Tuns" inn, and during +the same year at a great depth below the site of the County Bank, a +low-arched chamber was found in which were a quantity of bones of men +and animals. + +No Exonian find, however, exceeds in interest the discovery, in 1833, of +a bath and tesselated pavement behind the Deanery walls in South Street. +The walls were of Heavitree stone and brick, and the original pavement +was of black-and-white tesseræ set in concrete. The associated remains +of a thirteenth-century encaustic-tile pavement indicates the use of the +old Roman bath a thousand years or so after it had been made. Several +other tesselated pavements are recorded as having been found in Pancras +Lane, on the site of Bedford Circus, and on the north side of the +Cathedral near the Speke Chapel. In 1836 a small bronze figure of Julius +Cæsar (now in the British Museum) about three inches in height, was dug +up during the removal of some walls in the Westgate quarter of the city. +The only recorded find of a military weapon is the bronze hilt of a +dagger unearthed in South Street in 1833. This is of more than passing +interest, as it bears the name of its owner--E. MEFITI. [=E]O. +FRI[=S].--which has been read thus: "Servii or Marcii Mefiti Tribuni +Equitum Frisiorum"--Servius or Mercius Mefitus, tribune of the Frisians. + +The antiquary Leland mentions two Roman inscriptions as built into the +city wall near Southernhay, but they are gone, and besides the inscribed +dagger we have only a seal of Severius Pompeyus, and sundry graffiti or +funereal pottery, in the way of literary relics of Roman Exeter. The +poverty of Devonshire in memorials of the Roman period is shown by the +fact that, outside Exeter, there are not a dozen places in the county +which have yielded Roman vestigia other than coins. + +In 926 the Britons were driven from Exeter by Athelstan, who banished +them into Cornwall, and fixed the River Tamar as their boundary. +Athelstan was one of the greatest benefactors the city has had; for, in +addition to increasing the fortifications by means of a massive wall +flanked by towers, he built a castle on the Red Mount, now known as +Rougemont Castle. Although very little of this now remains, a portion of +the ruins is generally known as "Athelstan's Tower", and has a window +with a triangular head, which is certainly of Saxon style and date. In +932 Athelstan rebuilt the Monastery of Our Lady and St. Peter, staffing +it with monks of the Benedictine Order, and presenting them with the +reputed relics of St. Sidwell, a saint who is still somewhat of a puzzle +to ecclesiologists. A few years later the monastery was plundered by the +Danes, when the monks beat a hasty retreat, but returned in 968 on the +entreaty of King Edgar. A mint was shortly established here, wherein the +first coins were struck naming Athelstan "King of England". + +The Danes made continuous raids in the neighbourhood, but were +decisively defeated by the West Countrymen in 1001, at Pinhoe, a few +miles from Exeter. From that time until the treacherous massacre of the +Danes in Wessex upon St. Brice's Day in 1002 by Ethelred, this part of +the country was comparatively free from their inroads; but Gunhilda, the +sister of Swegen, King of Denmark, being among the slain, this king came +to avenge her death. He sailed up the Exe, burning and plundering the +villages on its banks, and for four years his army marched in every +direction across Wessex, and was at length induced to withdraw on being +paid a _wergeld_ (war tax) which was first levied on Exeter. + +After the Battle of Hastings, Gytha, the mother of Harold, took refuge +in Exeter, and Leofric, the bishop, offered to render homage to William +as Royal suzerain; but the Conqueror would have no half-hearted +submission, so Exeter closed its gates to the Normans. It held out for +eighteen days, when the military science of the Normans, and +particularly the skill they showed in undermining the walls, caused it +to surrender. The resistance won the besiegers' respect and brought +unusually good terms from so ruthless a victor as William. The lives of +the garrison were spared, Gytha was allowed to seek safety by sea, and +it has been said that the victorious troops were withdrawn from the city +gates to prevent them from claiming the licentious privileges so +generally granted to their followers by the Norman kings. + +As is fitting for its county town, the first entry in the Devonshire +Domesday deals with Exeter, in which city, it is recorded, the king had +285 houses rendering customary dues. The generally debased character of +the coinage of the time led to various expedients being adopted by the +Exchequer for securing approximately accurate payment of a specified sum +of money. Among other things the entries in Domesday state that in the +total-- + + "This (city of Exeter) renders 18 pounds per annum. Of these + Baldwin the Sheriff has six pounds by weight and assay, and Colvin + has of them 12 pounds by tale for the service of Queen Eadgyth". + +This entry is significant, for one pound or twenty shillings meant one +pound or twelve ounces troy of silver; and when money was payable by +weight twenty shillings were not taken as the equivalent of one pound +unless they fully weighed one pound. In this instance it is observable +that the portion of the customary dues rendered for the 285 houses, +which went to the Exchequer, was collected by the sheriff under the +strictest rules of weight and assay, whereas the portion allotted to the +widow of Edward the Confessor was received by the tale only. The +authorities took care that the sheriff collected the full amount due to +the Crown, but did not trouble themselves about the ex-queen's share. + +It has been affirmed that it was by the Normans that the fairs of +England were moulded into the shape with which we are most familiar. At +Exeter, in 1276, in reply to a writ of _quo warranto_, it was +satisfactorily shown that the rights of the city, its fee-farm rent and +its farms, dated from pre-Conquest days. The privileges and emoluments +attached to fairs in large towns were very great. During the time +allotted to them the citizens were often debarred from selling anything, +whereas strangers could vend their wares during the fair, but at no +other period of the year. In Cossin's _Reminiscences of Exeter_ (1877) +we are told how "at Exeter, on the occasion of the Lammas Fair, a +procession yet perambulates the city, one man bearing a pole with a +gigantic stuffed glove at the top of it, the latter being subsequently +hung out at the Guildhall". + +Many of England's reigning sovereigns have visited the city, among them +being Edward IV and Richard III. Henry VII came thither on 7 October, +1497, on the suppression of Perkin Warbeck's rebellion, when that rebel +had attempted to capture the city. The rebels were brought before the +king, bareheaded and with halters round their necks, and after they had +pleaded for mercy Henry pardoned them. On his departure, the king +presented the civic authorities with a sword and cap of maintenance, +both of which are still carried before the Mayor and Corporation on +occasions of state. + +The citizens of Exeter have always been noted for their stanch loyalty +to the reigning house, with the consequence that many rights and +privileges have been granted to it. The city motto, _Semper Fidelis_, +was conferred by Queen Elizabeth in recognition of the contributions, +both of men and money, made to the fleet that vanquished the Spanish +Armada. That the motto was merited is evident when we recall the fact +that, with the exception of Frobisher and Cavendish, practically the +whole of the leading seamen who chased the Spanish ships along the +Channel were born in the land of the Tamar, the Tavy, and the Dart. + +[Illustration: GUILDHALL PORCH] + +During the early part of the Civil War the citizens were divided in +their sympathies, some supporting the Parliament and others the King; +but the city soon fell into the hands of the former. In 1643, however, +Sir Ralph Hopton, the famous Royalist general, marched on Exeter with a +force made all the more formidable for siege purposes by the cannon he +had previously captured at Halton. The immediate capture of the city by +the Royalist forces was expected, the _Mercurius Aulius_ of 1 June, +1643, remarking that: "if the old observation be of any credit, that +cats and mice doe commonly forsake a ruinous and decaying house, that +Citie (Exeter) is not like to continue long in the Rebels' hands". The +proud and rebellious city was assaulted and captured by the Royalist +forces under Prince Maurice on 4 September, 1643, after a siege lasting +sixteen days, and a full account of its fall appeared in the issue of +the _Mercurius Aulius_ of 8 September. + +In May, 1644, Queen Henrietta Maria took up her abode in the city, at +Bedford House, where, on 16 June of the same year, the Princess +Henrietta was born. In the following month Charles I came to see his +little daughter, and again in September, when he appointed Thomas +Fuller, Vicar of Broadwindsor, in Dorset, as chaplain to the princess. +The queen, who had retired to Exeter as a safe place for her +confinement, soon afterwards had to leave there suddenly on the approach +of a Parliamentary army in command of the Earl of Essex. Her Majesty's +easiest way to France was by sea, and to prevent this Cromwell had sent +a fleet to Torbay to intercept her, should she attempt to leave England +by that route. Finding this road closed, she made for Falmouth, from +which port she got safely away. + +During the siege by Fairfax the inhabitants of the city suffered +considerably, owing to the food supplies being intercepted. One day a +flight of larks came into the town, "which were", says Fuller, "as +welcome as quails in the wilderness". The birds were so numerous that, +notwithstanding the prevailing famine, they were sold for twopence a +dozen. "Of this miraculous event", wrote Fuller, "I was not only an eye +but a mouth witness." + +The city capitulated on 13 April, 1646, among the conditions of +surrender being that the Cathedral should be spared, and the garrison +accorded the honours of war. + +After the landing of William of Orange at Brixham, in 1688, he marched +through the county to Exeter and entered the city by its western gate. +He proceeded direct to the Cathedral and took his seat in the bishop's +throne with his chaplain Burnet near him. A few of the prebendaries and +choristers attended the service, but when Burnet began to read the +Prince's Declaration, after the singing of the Te Deum, they hurriedly +departed. The bishop, Thomas Lamplugh, had proceeded to James on hearing +that the Dutch had landed, and was rewarded with the Archbishopric of +York. He afterwards assisted at William III's coronation. The Dean of +Exeter had also left the city, and the Deanery was prepared for the +Prince's reception. George III was the last English sovereign to stay in +Exeter, and he also resided at the Deanery. + +Although the Cathedral is the main attraction modern Exeter has to offer +to the tourist, a walk through the historic old city will reveal the +fact that, in addition to some highly interesting old churches, it +possesses a not inconsiderable number of ancient buildings. At the same +time there has been an appalling amount of destruction, some of it +apparently of an unnecessary kind, as the recent dismantling of the +beautiful old courtyard in the rear of Bampfylde House, the city +residence of the Poltimore family. + +The visitor who arrives at Exeter either by the Great Western or the +South-Western Railway, the station of the latter being the more central +of the two, can soon reach the busy and picturesque High Street by way +of Queen Street, one of the broadest thoroughfares in the city. The most +interesting building in High Street, and one that, in this respect, +ranks next to the Cathedral, is the Guildhall, with a portico projecting +over the pavement. It is probably one of the oldest municipal buildings +in the country, for in 1330 we find that the Guildhall was in a ruinous +condition, and it was then rebuilt. Again, in 1464, it was built up anew +in a more commodious and efficient manner, while the building as we see +it to-day, with its façade, is the result of still further alterations +in 1592. The entrance porch is separated from the inner hall by a +massive oak doorway, and the hall itself, 60 feet long and 25 feet wide, +is panelled throughout in oak, with a frieze consisting of shields +charged with the arms of former mayors, aldermen, recorders, and of the +city companies. Curious brackets, of figures bearing staves, support the +roof. The judge's chair is of carved oak, and bears the name and date of +the donor: "Christopher Ball, Esq., 1697". On the walls hang six large +portraits, among them those of George III and General Monk, the latter +by Sir Peter Lely, and over this picture hang the colours of the 4th +Devons, a regiment raised in the city by the general in 1681. + +Another portrait here by Lely is of the Princess Henrietta, concerning +which the old records state that: "In 1671 the King (Charles II), in +order to keep his promise made the last year when he visited this city +in person, and as a signal testimony of his love towards the same, was +pleased to send hither the effigy or portraiture, at length and richly +framed of his dear sister, the Duchess of Orleans (lately deceased), a +princess born within this city, and for beauty was esteemed to be one of +the fairest in Christendom; which said picture being placed in a fair +case of timber, richly adorned with gold, is erected in the open +guildhall of the said city, there to remain as a perpetual monument of +his majesty's high favour towards this his truly ancient, loyal, and +honourable city of Exeter". + +The upper room is known as the "Mayor's Parlour", where are many more +portraits, and the city sword and cap of maintenance. The scabbard of +the sword, which is the one presented by Edward IV, is still draped in +crape, as it used to be for the processions on "King Charles Martyr's" +Day (30 Jan.). The cap of maintenance presented to the city, together +with his sword, by Henry VII, was sent up to London to be repaired, the +cost for "sarcanet, damask, and pin lace" amounting to four guineas. The +original cap still remains within its covering, and it appears to +consist of two pieces of black felt sewn together. During the fifteenth +century the Chapel of St. George and St. John was built over the +Guildhall, with an apartment above for the priest who served it, the +chapel being probably connected with a religious guild. + +The junction of North and South Streets with Fore and High Streets was +formerly known as the Carfoix, or Carfax (_quatre voyes_, i.e. four +ways), where at one time many executions took place. Here also stood the +ancient conduit which supplied the city with water, but this was removed +to South Street in 1779. At the corner, looking down Fore Street, was a +fine fourteenth-century life-size figure of St. Peter, holding a model +of a church in his right hand and a book in his left, his feet trampling +on a demon. This has been removed from its original position and placed +high up in a niche over a shop close by. On the opposite side of High +Street is St. Petrock's Church, at one time almost hidden from sight by +the adjacent buildings. It is a curious little church, of which portions +have been assigned to the Saxon period. The parish of St. Petrock is in +the centre of the city, and was one of the oldest and most important, +being one of the nineteen churches to which William I ordered the +provost to pay a silver penny yearly. The church was enlarged on the +south side during the fifteenth century, and in the following century +the Jesus aisle was added, when Thomas Chard, acting as Bishop Oldham's +suffragan, reconsecrated the church. The chancel is now towards the east +in what was once an aisle, the original chancel being where the north +aisle is now, with the consequence that the interior of the church has a +very curious appearance. + +[Illustration: MOL'S COFFEE HOUSE] + +Farther up High Street, on the same side, are some picturesque houses +with Elizabethan gables, the interiors of many of them adorned with fine +specimens of oak carving in situ. The building now occupied by Messrs. +Green as a drapery establishment was at one time the "New Inn", and it +is mentioned in this capacity so early as 1456 in a lease relating to +the building, in which it is referred to as "le Newe Inne". In 1554 the +cloth mart was established here, and early in the seventeenth century +the New Inn Hall was used as the exchange where the cloth merchants met +to transact their business. The house was rebuilt towards the close of +the century, and the Apollo Room was added as a banqueting hall for the +judges on circuit. This is now used as a showroom, but it still retains +its elaborate plaster ceiling bearing the date 1695, and the original +oak panelling. The frieze consists of a series of wreaths upholding +shields charged with the armorial bearings of many county families, +together with the royal arms and those of the city. + +Farther up the street is the church of St. Stephen, mentioned in +Domesday. The original church was destroyed by the Commonwealth in 1658, +and rebuilt in 1664. Stephen's Bow, the adjacent archway, was always a +part of the church, and above it rises the tower; beneath the church is +an ancient crypt. A turning to the right close by leads to Bedford +Circus, with a statue of the Earl of Devon at the entrance. In the +thirteenth century a Dominican Convent was founded in this part of the +city, and occupied the southern portion of the circus, together with +Chapel Street and the adjoining mews. In 1558 the convent was dissolved, +and Bedford House, the West-Country residence of the Dukes of Bedford, +was erected. Here Henrietta Maria held her Court, and here the little +princess was born. The Dukes of Bedford ceased to use this residence in +the eighteenth century, and in 1773 it fell into the builders' hands, +when the eastern side of the circus was built, the western side not +being begun until 1826. The place to-day possesses no attractive +features, and only the memories of its past history remain. The earlier +excavations brought to light a great number of skulls, bones, and +fragments of sculpture; while during the later building operations, +especially those conducted on the site of the conventual church, a large +number of carved stones were unearthed which had evidently formed part +of the Dominican house. Some of these fragments were richly ornamented +with painting and gilding. Another discovery was the life-size stone +head of an effigy with a hood of closely set ring mail. This is now +preserved in the Cathedral cloisters. + +Returning to High Street, Bampfylde Street lies a little higher up. A +great portion of this street is occupied by the front of Bampfylde +House, built by Sir Amyas Bampfylde at the end of the sixteenth century. +In later years this became the town house of the Poltimore family. +Although shamefully modernized the house has retained a few interesting +features. In the hall is seen a narrow window filled with old glass on +which armorial bearings are displayed, while the broad staircase leads +to a fine apartment panelled in oak, and having an elaborate plaster +ceiling. The mantelpiece is a good piece of work and bears the arms of +the Poltimores in its centre. There are one or two other good rooms and +some deep cupboards, and one very small apartment is said to be a +genuine eighteenth-century powdering closet. The beautiful old courtyard +at the back will no longer be recognized by those who knew it a few +years ago. It has been "restored". + +The Church of St. Lawrence is situated on the north side of High Street, +and dates from 1202. It was sold during the Commonwealth, and bought by +the parishioners for £100. On the south side, and slightly farther up, +is St. John's Hospital, situated near to where the old East Gate +formerly stood. The hospital was founded circa 1225 by Gilbert and John +Long. Bishop Grandisson was a great benefactor to it, as, in addition to +increasing the number of inmates and clergy, he added "a master of +grammar and twelve scholars". The foundation was suppressed in 1540, but +in 1620 its restoration was planned by Hugh Crossing and carried out +after his death by his widow. The institution was refounded in +1629--when only the school was revived--and is now known as the "Blue +Boys' School". The playground is partly bounded by a piece of the old +city wall, whence one can look down on the Southernhay Gardens and +obtain a good impression of the strength of the ancient fortifications. + +The seal of St. John's Hospital is an interesting one of +thirteenth-century date on which is depicted the exterior of St. John's +Chapel, which is shown as having a shingled roof and gable crosses; also +an external arcade of three semicircular arches. Another interesting +seal of the same century is that of the Hospital of St. Alexius, founded +in 1170. This foundation, and the hospital of the bishops, formerly on +the site of the present Vicars' College, were afterwards united with the +Hospital of St. John at the East Gate. The seal shows the hospital with +gable crosses, an arcaded clerestory, and three quatrefoil openings in +its wall; beneath is an arcade of six arches. + +High Street merges into Sidwell Street. St. Sidwell's was one of the +nineteen old city parishes although without the walls. The site of St. +Sidwell's Church is said to be on the spot where a saint of this name +suffered martyrdom. She is one of those half-mythical British saints, +said by tradition to have been beheaded by a scythe whilst praying +beside a well. A church is said to have been built in her honour so +early as 749. The present building has undergone repeated restorations, +but some ancient pillars still remain with sculptured capitals, and +there is also a representation of St. Sidwell, or Sidwella, whose +attributes are a well and a scythe. To the monastery he had founded +Athelstan presented some reputed relics of the saint. + +At the top of Sidwell Street is St. Anne's Almshouse, one of the most +interesting foundations in the city. It was originally a hermitage, but +little is known about it until 1418, when it was "newly constructed", +and in 1561 Oliver and George Mainwaring founded a hospital for eight +poor people. The chapel is a small building that has retained its +piscina and two niches for holding figures. The almshouse was fortified +by Fairfax during the Civil War, and for many years the chapel was in a +ruinous condition, but it was restored early in the nineteenth century. +St. Anne's Day, 26 July, has been observed regularly by the inmates of +the charity since its foundation. + +Retracing our steps to the beginning of High Street, and proceeding up +Castle Street, we reach the highest point of the city, the Red Mount, +crowned by the gateway and ruined towers of an ancient castle. The +fortress formed a part of the fortifications erected by Athelstan, and +the Red Tower, with its triangular-headed window, may be confidently +assigned to the Saxon era. During the Norman period the castle was +rebuilt by Brian de Molis. In Stephen's reign it was besieged and taken +from Earl Baldwin de Redvers, who was banished until the following +reign, when his possessions were restored. The castle belonged to the de +Redvers and Courtenay families until 1231, when Henry III presented it +to his brother Richard as part of the earldom of Cornwall. In 1537 Henry +VIII granted Exeter a charter giving the city the privilege of being a +county with its own sheriffs, excepting Rougemont Castle, which still +belongs to the Duchy of Cornwall. + +[Illustration: ROUGEMONT CASTLE] + +In 1774 a large portion of the castle ruins were cleared away, when +several interesting buildings were destroyed, among them the Chapel of +the Blessed Virgin, to make room for the present Assize Court, a plain +building with no pretensions to architectural beauty. On the right of +the castle yard is a little path leading to the top of the walls, whence +a comprehensive view of the city and the neighbourhood can be obtained. +Looking straight across the valley, beyond the county jail, one can see +the site of the ancient camp of the Danes, against whom Athelstan +built his fortifications, now occupied by the reservoir. At the foot of +the wall are the Northernhay Gardens, a favourite resort with youthful +Exonians. From Northernhay the old walls can easily be traced westwards, +and crossing Queen Street we may proceed down the narrow Maddocks Row to +find the wall pierced by the only archway now remaining. Continuing +westwards we cross North Street, where the old North Gate stood until it +was demolished in 1769. Entering Bartholomew Street East we are on the +ramparts again, and from the bastion near All-Hallows-on-the-Walls +Church we may look down upon the old Bartholomew burying-ground, +consecrated in 1639, and used as the principal city cemetery for nearly +two hundred years. The Church of All-Hallows-on-the-Walls is a modern +one that stands on the site of a more ancient edifice. From this point +one can see the tapering spire of St. Michael's Church, in the grounds +of Mount Dinham, where are the almshouses erected and endowed in 1860 by +John Dinham. Here are forty free cottages and episcopal charity schools, +the latter founded originally in 1709 by Bishop Offspring Blackall. + +Continuing along the bastion the limit of the northern wall is soon +reached. Many of the old streets in this quarter of the city are worth +visiting, for in the narrow thoroughfares are some interesting old +houses. In St. Mary Arches Street is the church of the same name, shut +in by houses. It is one of the old parish churches of Exeter, and one +that takes part of its name from the fine Norman pillars and arcade of +the nave, which is the oldest in the city. In the south aisle is a +chantry containing the altar tomb of Thomas Andrews, mayor in 1505 and +1510; and who died in 1518. Mint Street, as its name implies, was +associated with the mint established there by permission of William III. +The coinage minted there may be recognized by the letter E placed +beneath the king's head. Bartholomew Street brings us to Fore Street, a +narrow and very steep thoroughfare, within which is the fine front of +the Tuckers' Hall, belonging to the Incorporated Guilds of Weavers, +Fullers, and Shearmen, chartered in 1490. Close at hand are steps +leading down to Exe Island, which was for many years a subject of +dispute between the Earls of Devon and the citizens; but on the +attainder of Henry, Marquis of Exeter, in 1558, the property reverted to +the Crown. On the conclusion of the Prayer-Book Riots the island was +granted to the city by Edward VI, as a reward for the services it had +rendered the authorities. Most of the old portions of the island have +been destroyed, many of them in recent years, but an interesting +specimen of a Tudor house remains with a covering of slates somewhat +resembling scale armour. Shields appear in the ornamentation, one of +them bearing the Tudor rose. At one time this style of wall covering was +very common in Exeter, but the example in Exe Island is the only one now +remaining. + +On the south side of Fore Street stands St Olave's Church, where, +according to Domesday, a church with the same dedication existed before +the Conquest. It is said traditionally to have been built by Gytha, +Harold's mother, in order that masses might be said for the souls of her +son and Earl Godwin. William I gave the church to the monks of Battle +Abbey, in whose possession it remained until the Reformation. More than +a century later St. Olave's was lent to the French Huguenot refugees, +many of whom settled in Exeter where they established an important +woollen industry. The present church bears few indications of antiquity, +beyond some Norman arches and a little early carving in the tower. + +At the lower end of Fore Street is West Street, marking the western +limit of the old walls. A right-hand turn leads to St. Edmund's Church, +built in the thirteenth century at one end of the old bridge, when it +was known as _St. Edmund Super pontem_. In 1831 the original structure +was pulled down and the present building begun. It is said to stand +upon some of the arches of the ancient bridge. Turning eastwards we +reach the foot of Stepcote Hill, and the church of St. Mary Steps. A +remarkable exterior feature is the old clock and figures, known locally +as "Matthew the Miller". The dial is enriched with basso-rilievos +representing the four seasons, and in a niche just above is a small +effigy of Henry VIII in a sitting posture, who nods his head as each +hour is struck. On each side is a military figure, their morions crowned +with feathers, javelins held in their right hands, and small hammers in +their left hands, with which they alternately strike the quarter hours +on two small bells at their feet. The name of "Matthew the Miller" is +said to have originated from the punctuality of a miller of that name +who was so regular in going to and from his mill that people set their +clocks by him. The church contains a fine chancel screen, with +twenty-eight panels of painted saints, which was removed from the church +of St. Mary Major. The font is a good one, of Norman date. Just opposite +St. Mary Steps stood the West Gate of the city, which was taken down in +1814. + +The Westgate quarter formed part of the manor of Exe Island, and was +inhabited chiefly by weavers, fullers, dyers, and those whose +occupations required a copious supply of water. The whole of this +district is intersected with narrow lanes and passages, beneath and +around which are many streams diverted from the river to work the mills. + +A few old gabled houses with overhanging upper stories still remain in +this district, but they are in a very dilapidated condition, as will be +noticed by anyone who traverses one of the numerous byways that lead to +South Street, at the lower end of which is Magdalen Street, where are +two very interesting hospitals--"Wynard's" and the "Magdalen". The +former was founded in 1430 by William Wynard, sometime Recorder of the +city, for the habitation of a priest and twelve poor men. The attached +chapel was dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and the hospital was called +"God's House". The founder left many lands and tenements to provide +funds for the establishment. The master might not be absent more than +once or twice in the year, and his total holidays in the twelve months +were never to exceed three weeks and three days. He was also required to +teach from three to nine boys, starting them with the alphabet, and +going on to the "great psalter of the holy David". The foundation passed +eventually into the possession of William Kennaway, who built a vault +within which he was buried. + +The hospital to-day is one of the secular buildings of Exeter most worth +visiting, with its gabled houses, dormer windows, and garden plots. An +archway leads into the courtyard, around which on three sides are +grouped the houses of the twelve pensioners; the chapel occupies the +fourth side of the quadrangle. + +The Magdalen, or Leper, Hospital, just without the South Gate, was +founded sometime before 1135, for in 1136 we find that Bishop +Bartholomew permitted a continuance of the ancient right by which the +lepers were allowed to collect food twice a week in the market, and alms +on two other days, to all of which the healthy members of the community +naturally objected. In 1244 Bishop Bruere resigned the guardianship of +the leper hospital to the corporation, and was given in its stead the +mastership of the hospital of St. John. One of the mayors of Exeter, +Richard Orange, was a great patron of the lazar house, and when he +himself contracted leprosy he took up his abode in the hospital, where +he died and was buried in the chapel. Even so late as the sixteenth +century there would appear to have been lepers in Exeter, for we find +that in 1580 no one was to be admitted to the Magdalen Hospital except +"sick persons in the disease of the leprosy". + +[Illustration: ST. MARY STEPS] + +In South Street is College Hall, or the Hall of the College of +Priest-Vicars or Vicars Choral, a fine oak-panelled apartment. The +original hall was built by Bishop Brantyngham about 1388, and access was +then gained to it from the Close; the houses of the priest-vicars +being arranged on each side of a green. All this has now disappeared +with the exception of the hall, which was rebuilt in the fifteenth +century. At one end is a gallery upon the upper panels of which are +paintings representing former bishops of the diocese, beginning with +Leofric. On the carved mantelpiece is the date, 1629, and the owls which +constitute the punning, or allusive, arms of Bishop Oldham. Near the +hall a road leads into the Close, passing the church of St. Mary Major, +a modern building replacing a beautiful old one which appears to have +been needlessly destroyed. On the eastern side of the Close is a +picturesque Elizabethan building known as Mol's Coffee House. At the +time of the Armada it was a private residence. In 1596 the original +house was pulled down and the present building erected. On the +introduction of coffee into England it was opened as a Club and Coffee +House by an Italian named Mol. As such it was a well-known and popular +resort with the citizens of Exeter and the squires of the neighbourhood +until 1829. It is now used as a shop by a firm of fine-art dealers, but +the fine "Armada" room upstairs is willingly shown to all visitors who +express a wish to see it. It is a good panelled room with low windows, +and an elaborate frieze of shields bearing the arms of many ancient +Devonshire families, among them being those of Sir Francis Drake, Sir +Walter Raleigh, and General Monk. Adjoining Mol's Coffee House is the +very small Church of St. Martin, now but rarely used for divine service. +On the Catherine Street side of the church is a building, formerly an +almshouse, which has an attached chapel of much interest dedicated to +St. Catherine. The chapel is conjectured to have been built by the +Annuellor monks, whose college originally stood on the site of Mol's +Coffee House, where traces of it may still be seen in the cellars. The +narrow passage of St. Martin's Lane, known to the present-day citizens +as "Luxury Lane", on account of its shops, leads direct from the busy +High Street to the Cathedral Close. + + +THE CATHEDRAL + +The present cathedral church of the diocese of Exeter may be said to be +the third building that has stood on the site. Nothing remains of the +Saxon church elevated to the dignity of a cathedral when the bishopric +was removed from Crediton, and of the Norman church erected by +Warelwast, a nephew of the Conqueror, only the two massive towers are +standing, the remainder of the building belonging almost entirely to +the late Decorated style, of which it is one of the most beautiful +examples we possess. + +The city of Exeter does not appear to have been divided into parishes +until the year 1222, in pursuance then no doubt of Archbishop Langton's +Constitution of the same year. The Cathedral itself was first +constituted a parish by being placed under the charge of a single +dignitary, the dean, by Bishop Briwere, in 1225. + +Four years after he ascended the throne in 1042, Edward the Confessor +gave the united bishopric of Crediton and Cornwall to his chaplain, +Leofric, who, observing that Crediton was an open town, difficult to +fortify against the Danish raiders, obtained from Pope Leo IX permission +to remove the episcopal see to Exeter, when the Benedictine minster of +St. Mary and St. Peter became the cathedral church of the diocese. + +Although no part of this church remains, an ancient seal of the +Cathedral is of special interest as showing some of the architectural +features of the Saxon church. It depicts the west front with two towers, +the northern square and the southern circular, the latter surmounted by +a cross, and pierced by three round openings in the walls. There are two +porches, one in the centre the other in the north tower, and the walls +show indications of characteristic Saxon masonry. On the central roof +is a large flêche or turret of two stages carrying a weathercock on a +very tall shaft. + +Of the succeeding church the only contemporary pictorial representations +we have are those on early, and somewhat imperfect, seals dating from +the end of the eleventh century. The first has a church with cresting of +fleurs-de-lis on a hipped and tiled roof, two gable crosses, flanking +pinnacles, an arcaded clerestory, and a double door with ornamental +hinges, on each side of which is a quatrefoil opening. The second seal +shows an arcaded building standing on a stone plinth of four courses, +and flanked by towers with conical roofs and ball finials. The roof is +surmounted by a large fleur-de-lis, and exhibits an unusual form of +tiling. A third seal (1194-1206) shows the west front of the Cathedral +with two western towers and a central porch, and a large roof turret. +Another view of the west front occurs on the seal of the Archdeacon's +official, 1267, and in this example there are three pointed towers, the +central one carrying a cross, the others being capped with flag vanes. +In the doorway stands a figure of the official. The two Norman +transeptal towers still standing give the Cathedral a unique appearance, +this arrangement being found nowhere else in England, save at the highly +interesting and not far distant Collegiate Church of Ottery St. Mary. + +Having thus briefly sketched from pictorial evidence the architectural +characteristics of the predecessors of the present Cathedral, we may +begin our tour of the building. Exeter is known as a Cathedral of the +Old Foundation, as in pre-Reformation days it was served by secular +canons, and as such it was not refounded by Henry VIII; so that there +has been no break in the continuity of its ecclesiastical history since +its original institution in the days of Leofric. With the exception of +Carlisle, which was served before the Reformation by Augustinian or +Austin canons, all the cathedrals of the Old Foundation were served by +secular canons. It must be remembered that although nearly the whole of +the architectural merit of the Cathedral lies in the interior, and +particularly in the magnificent stone vaulting of the roof, which is the +high-water mark of vaulting on a large scale in England, there are +several portions of the exterior that are worth noting. Externally the +great defect of the building is the low elevation of the body, and the +want of a central tower to counteract the heavy effect produced by solid +square towers at each transept. + +The west front, with its low, embattled screen of figures, is not a very +happy architectural composition, and is not to be compared to the west +fronts of Lincoln and Peterborough, where the figure sculpture is +earlier and better executed than at Exeter. The one redeeming feature +of an otherwise unimposing west front, is the Decorated tracery of the +great window, now filled with modern, and not very satisfactory, glass +in memory of Archbishop Temple, who was Bishop of Exeter from 1869 to +1885. + +The elevation of this front consists of three stories: the basement +screen, containing three portals; above this is the west wall of the +nave; and above this again is the nave gable, in which is inserted a +smaller window of the same character as the larger one. The apex of the +gable has a canopied niche, within which is a much-restored effigy of +St. Peter. The sloping walls built on each side, as if purposely to +conceal the buttresses of the nave and its aisles, give this portion of +the church an awkward perspective, and tend to diminish the apparent +height of the whole façade. The screen itself was the last important +addition to be made to the fabric by Bishop Brantyngham (1370-94), and +it is little more than a low stone scaffolding for holding the rows of +figures of saints, kings, and other distinguished persons which fill the +niches. An attempt to identify these sixty-five individuals, with the +aid of early drawings and still earlier documents, may be said to have +established the identities of the majority of the effigies, although +they have suffered so much from rough treatment, restoration, and +weathering that many of the saintly emblems and regal attributes are +difficult to decipher at the present time. Two of the figures, which +were broken with falling, were replaced by new and very indifferent +figures by Mr. E. B. Stevens. + + +[Illustration: THE CATHEDRAL FROM THE PALACE GROUNDS] + +Some years ago it was found that the whole of this embattled screen was +merely a stone veil erected for the purpose of protecting the original +west front. One or two stones were removed, a little to the right of the +north door of the west entrance, and the inner mouldings exposed. Within +the thickness of the wall is a little chapel dedicated to St. Radegund, +in which Bishop Grandisson prepared his tomb. + +The north side of the Cathedral can be viewed in its entirety from any +part of the well-kept lawns, beneath which lie the bones of the citizens +of seven centuries, but no stones mark their resting places. The most +noticeable feature on this north side is the sturdy Norman tower, +corresponding to its fellow on the south side, the original purposes of +which are still a matter of much discussion among antiquaries. Built by +Bishop Warelwast in the twelfth century, they stood as two distinct and +independent towers, until Bishop Quivil, during the rebuilding of the +Cathedral in 1280-91, ingeniously opened up the inside walls, supporting +the remaining portions of the walls upon arches, thus forming the +interiors of the towers into transepts. The exterior of the northern +tower is plain walling for part of its height, when it is divided into +four stages by horizontal bands, each stage containing elaborate Norman +arcading, ornamented with zigzag moulding. It is surmounted with an +embattled parapet with a turret at each angle. In the north wall a fine +Decorated window was inserted by Quivil for the purpose of lighting his +newly made transepts. To make way for this window a portion of the +arcading of the first stage was cut away. The towers are similar to each +other, and they were formerly capped with spires. In 1752 the spire on +the north tower was taken down, that on the south tower having been +removed at a much earlier date. Just below the window, on the face of +the north tower, are the masonry marks of the gable of a house. This was +the old Treasurer's House, wherein Henry VII was lodged when he came to +Exeter to put down Perkin Warbeck's rebellion. + +Near the north tower is the projecting north porch with its embattled +parapet. On the eastern side of the interior are the fragments of what +was once a Calvary, and on the central boss of the roof is a +representation of the Agnus Dei. + +An apartment above is known as the "Dog Whipper's" room, a relic of +those days when an official was appointed whose duty it was to keep +stray dogs out of the sacred building. + +On the exterior of the clerestory wall immediately above the porch is a +projection which marks the Minstrels' Gallery, and is lighted by a +window. Along the whole length of the Cathedral, from the west end of +the nave to the east end of the choir, are the flying buttresses that +counteract the thrust of the heavy roof vaulting of the interior. + +At the extreme eastern end of the Cathedral the Lady Chapel and its +sister chantries can be seen to great advantage with their windows +filled with tracery. The great Perpendicular east window is partially +hidden by the more easterly portions of the fabric, but it contains some +fine old glass, on which are full-length representations of nineteen +saints and patriarchs, and many armorial bearings. The full beauty of +the glass can only be seen from the interior. The south side of the +Cathedral is very similar to the northern one, except that the portion +east of the tower is hidden from view by the episcopal palace. + +Once inside the nave, which should be entered by the western portal, the +dullest eye cannot fail to perceive the uniform character of the work, a +quality which gives to this Cathedral a congruity of structural forms +and an architectonic value that is lacking in buildings which exhibit +the styles of various periods. Here we see the complete architectural +expression of one master mind, although the edifice was erected under +the supervision of successive bishops. The present Cathedral was begun +by Bishop Bronescombe (1258-80), to whom is due a portion of the Lady +Chapel. His successor, Quivil (1280-91), furnished designs for the +entire rebuilding of the church, and how faithfully his successors +adhered to these plans is proved by the fact that a great deal of this +Decorated building was erected at a time when the Perpendicular style +was in full swing all over the country. With the exception of the great +east window, which is of the Perpendicular period, the whole of the +interior is of the purest Decorated work, and is the finest, as it is +the most complete, example of this style on a large scale in the +country. Exception has been taken to the lack of height in the nave, due +to the low spring of the vaulting, and there is some justification for +the criticism. The vaulting, however, is exceedingly beautiful, and the +long line of unbroken roof stretching from the west end of the nave to +the east end of the choir is so charming a feature that when inside the +building we no longer regret the absence of a central tower. + +[Illustration: THE SANCTUARY, EXETER CATHEDRAL] + +The bosses that unite the vaulting ribs represent a variety of subjects, +the last but one, near the west window, depicting the martyrdom of +Becket. The corbels from which the vaulting shafts spring are mostly +sculptured heads of the Plantagenets; those on each side of the +Minstrels' Gallery depict Edward III and Queen Philippa. This gallery +cuts into the triforium on its north side, and contains niches in which +are sculptured angels with musical instruments. Until the middle of the +last century it was customary for the surpliced choir to sing the Gloria +in Excelsis from the gallery on Christmas Eve. + +The Gothic arches of the nave, large and beautiful, rest upon massive +clustered piers of Purbeck marble. The development of these piers as the +building progressed westwards is clearly seen. Between the Lady Chapel +and the choir is a pier of four shafts, then one of eight, which +eventually develops into one of sixteen shafts, repeated throughout the +length of the nave. Although the tracery of the aisle windows is very +varied in design, each window on the north side has its counterpart on +the south side, and some of the tracery of these windows has a marked +tendency to the flamboyant, thus showing the lateness of much of the +work at Exeter, for what is called the flamboyant style is contemporary +in France with our Perpendicular work, which is a purely English style +unknown on the Continent. + +The choir screen was put up by Bishop Stapledon (1465), but its height +and effectiveness are sadly marred by the great organ placed upon it. +Until comparatively recent years an altar stood on each side of this +screen. The great west window of the nave, the beautiful tracery of +which has already been alluded to, was due to Bishop Grandisson +(1327-69). The font at the western end of the south nave aisle was made +specially for the baptism of Princess Henrietta, while the nave pulpit, +erected in 1877, to the memory of Bishop Patteson of Melanesia, "is", +says the Rev. Baring-Gould, "much of a piece with the stuff turned out +by clerical tailors and church decorators who furnish us with vulgar +designs in illustrated catalogues". + +The transepts, as we have seen, were bored by Quivil through the two +Norman towers built by Warelwast, and in consequence are of small +dimensions. In the north tower is the great bell called "Peter", which +was brought from Llandaff by Bishop Courtenay towards the end of the +fifteenth century, and which weighs 12,500 lb., the only heavier bell in +this country being great "Tom of Oxford", the weight of which is 17,000 +lb. "Peter" was rung formerly by the united exertions of twenty-four men +using two ropes and double wheels, but it was cracked on 5 November, +1611, from a "too violent ringing in commemoration of the Gunpowder +Plot". + +In 1752 the bell was placed in the lower part of the tower, and so fixed +in a massive framework of timber that it cannot now be rung; it is, +however, used as a clock bell, and the sound of its deep notes can be +heard at a great distance. The old clock in the same transept has been +regarded as the gift of Bishop Courtenay, but this is doubtful, as from +entries in the fabric rolls it seems that the clock was constructed more +than a century before that prelate presided over the see. If so, the +clock would date from about 1317. This ancient clock is very remarkable, +being constructed upon the idea that the earth and not the sun was the +centre of the solar system. It shows the hour of the day and the age of +the moon. The dial is about seven feet in diameter, and on it are two +circles, one numbered from 1 to 30 for the age of the moon, the other +numbered from 1 to 12 twice over, for the hours. In the centre of the +dial a semi-globe is fixed representing the earth, around which a +smaller globe indicating the moon revolves monthly, and by turning on +its axis as it revolves, shows the various lunar phases. Between the two +circles is a third globe representing the sun, with an attached +fleur-de-lis which points to the hours as the ball revolves around the +earth. In 1760, more works were added--to show the minutes, which are +painted in a circle. The works of the clocks have been renewed many +times, and are now placed in the disused chantry of Sub-Chanter Sylke, +situated in the northeast corner of the transept, just below the ancient +clock. + +On the eastern side of this transept is St. Paul's Chapel, now used as a +vestry. + +The south transept, that corresponds with the northern one, is formed +from the lower part of the south tower, which contains a fine set of +bells, although only ten of them are now rung. There are some +interesting monuments in this transept. Here are the great Courtenay +tomb, originally occupying a place in the nave; the Elizabethan tomb of +Sir John Gilbert, brother of Sir Humphrey Gilbert and half-brother to +Sir Walter Ralegh; and the monument to Sir Peter Carew. A niche in the +wall holds a few fragments of sculptured stone saved from the tomb of +Leofric, first Bishop of Exeter, who was buried in "the crypt of his own +church". A marble slab against the south wall is believed to be the +resting place of "Bishop John the Chanter" (1186-91). A small door in +this transept leads to the Chapel of the Holy Ghost and to the Chapter +House. + +[Illustration: OLD COURTYARD IN THE CLOSE] + +On the roof of the south choir aisle are bosses carved with +representations of the heads of Edward I and Queen Eleanor. This aisle +contains many interesting effigies, among them two of those of unknown +knights, considered to commemorate Sir Humphrey de Bohun and Sir Henry +de Ralegh. The body of the latter knight was the cause of a contention, +between the Dean and Chapter of the Cathedral and the Dominican +Friars, in the year 1301. The quarrel was a bitter one, and lasted for +five years. The Dean and the Chapter affirmed that from time immemorial, +and by special arrangement with the friars, they had the right to have +all bodies which were intended to be buried in the Dominican church, +with the exception of those which belonged to the convent, brought to +the Cathedral with the usual wax and offerings for the first mass. The +friars refused to allow Sir Henry Ralegh's body to be taken to the +Cathedral, and they claimed the wax and offerings. After a lengthy +dispute the executors and friends of the knight took his body to the +Cathedral, where the usual mass was celebrated, after which the body, +with the bier and pall belonging to the friars, was carried back to the +convent doors. The friars now refused to readmit the body, upon which +the executors took it again to the Cathedral, "and after keeping it for +a day and a night, and the friars still refusing to receive it, they +carried it to be buried in the Cathedral, as it could not be left longer +unburied owing to the stench (_fetare_)". + +On the south side of the aisle is the Chapel of St. James, which was +built by Bishop Marshall and restored by Quivil in the early Decorated +style. The vaulting and the windows are similar to those of the choir +aisles. Over it was formerly the muniment room, but in 1870 the +archives were removed to the Chapter House for greater safety. During +some excavations a crypt was found beneath the chapel with a finely +groined roof. The crypt now contains the machinery used for blowing the +organ. The next chapel on the south side is the chantry of Bishop +Oldham, or St. Saviour's Chapel, richly decorated with carvings, among +which the "owl" of the bishop, forming part of the rebus of his name, is +prominent. His armorial bearings are also charged with the three owls. +The effigy of the prelate rests beneath an ogee arch, and is lavishly +coloured, although the original work has been restored by Corpus Christi +College, Oxford, in memory of Bishop Oldham, who contributed 6000 marks +to the collegiate foundation. On the south side of the Lady Chapel is +St. Gabriel's Chapel, built by Bishop Bronescombe in honour of his +patron saint. Here lies the effigy of the bishop in a carved and richly +gilded tomb. + +The Chapel of St. Mary Magdalene, originally built by Bronescombe, was +altered by Quivil. It has a Perpendicular screen and some +fifteenth-century glass in the east window. Close by, on the north side +of the north choir aisle, is Sir John Speke's Chantry, or St. George's +Chapel, of Perpendicular work and containing the effigy of the knight. +When the Cathedral was divided into two parts, in Puritan days, a +doorway was made where the altar now stands, leading into "East +Peter's". On the north side of the choir aisle is St. Andrew's Chapel, +corresponding with that of St. James on the south. By the north wall is +the large sixteenth-century monument of Sir Gawain Carew, his wife, and +his nephew, Sir Peter Carew (1571). The effigy of the last-named is +cross-legged, and so late an example of this disposition of the lower +limbs supports the now generally accepted archæological fact that the +cross-legged attitude had no particular reference to the romantic wars +of the Crusades. + +Other interesting monuments in this aisle are the cross-legged effigy of +Sir Richard de Stapledon, half-brother to the bishop, and that of Bishop +Stapledon. The latter, although in the choir, is seen to better +advantage from below. A story runs to the effect that while Sir Richard +was riding one day in London with his brother, a cripple laid hold of +his horse by one of the fore legs, throwing both horse and rider to the +ground, and causing the knight's death, hence the name "Cripplegate". +Bishop Stapledon was Treasurer to Edward II, and held London against +Queen Isabella. The bishop was taken prisoner, and condemned to death at +a mock trial. He was beheaded at Cheapside, and his body cast on a +rubbish heap, whence it was eventually taken to Exeter and accorded an +honourable burial. + +No examples of miserere carvings are known in English churches before +the thirteenth century, and the set at Exeter are probably the earliest +we have, the character of their foliage denoting the Early English +period. They are thought to have been the gift of Bishop Bruere +(1224-44). The complete set numbers forty-nine, and among the subjects +represented are a merman and a mermaid, an elephant, and a knight +slaying a leopard. + +The choir stalls, carved to illustrate the _Benedicite_, the pulpit, and +the reredos are all modern, having been erected from designs by Sir +Gilbert Scott. The lofty tapering bishop's throne, an essential feature +of every cathedral church, is the most remarkable of the choir fittings. +It has been ascertained from the fabric rolls that it was the gift of +Bishop Stapledon (1465), and the exact sum paid for the work and timber +was just under thirteen pounds, a considerable sum of money when its +modern equivalent is calculated. The throne consists of a series of +pinnacles and niches, rising in diminishing tiers until the crowning +pinnacle almost reaches to the clerestory window. There is not a single +nail in the whole of this canopied seat, although it rises to a height +of more than sixty feet from the choir floor. It has been taken to +pieces on at least two occasions; once by the son of Bishop Hall, when +it was hidden away during the Civil Wars to save it from Cromwell's +troopers, and a second time by Sir Gilbert Scott, for the purposes of +cleaning. It is highly probable that the oak of which it is made came +from Chudleigh, some ten miles away, where the bishops of Exeter had a +palace, of which fragments remain in Palace Farm. + +[Illustration: THE ABBOT'S LODGE] + +The beautiful stone sedilia was due to Stapledon. Above the seat are +three arches 10 feet in height, surmounted by elaborately designed +tabernacle work. The arches spring from three carved heads reputed to be +those of St. Edward the Confessor, Leofric, and Edith. + +The Lady Chapel is at the eastern end of the choir, from which it is +separated by a broad ambulatory, and within it are the tombs of Bishops +Stafford, Bronescombe, Simon of Apulia, and Bartholomew, as well as the +tomb of Sir John Doddridge. A plain slab marks the resting place of +Bishop Quivil, the stone bearing an incised cross and around it the +inscription-- + + "PETRA TEGIT PETRUM + NIHIL OFFICIAT SIBI TETRUM". + +The large number of interments in Lady Chapels was due to the perfectly +natural desire of our forefathers to be laid to rest in the chapel +dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. + +The cloisters stood formerly on the south side, in front of the Chapter +House. They were so sadly mutilated by the Cromwellian troopers that +houses were erected and a weekly market held on the site. In 1887 a +portion of the ruinous cloister was restored, so that a new cathedral +library could be placed above it for the purpose of housing the valuable +libraries bequeathed to the Cathedral, no more space being available in +the Chapter House. An interesting manuscript, preserved in the library +of the Devon and Exeter Institution, contains many references to the +city which have not been recorded by other historians. With reference to +the cloisters the unknown author of this manuscript says: + + "1657. The Cloysters neer to Peters churche was converted into the + serdge markett, which was before in Southgate street. + + "1660. The wall which divided East & West Peters was taken downe in + December and in the month following the serdg markett was removed + out of the Cloystures, and carried againe into Southgate street + whear it was before. Also the uniting of severall parishes into one + was againe made void & each parrish to enjoy her owne priviledges + and lyberties as before." + +When Daniel Defoe visited Exeter, in 1723, it had the largest serge +market in England, next to Leeds. + +Although the Close has not succeeded in retaining any of its gates it is +interesting by reason of the few old houses that still surround it, +whilst behind their gabled roofs rises the double-towered Cathedral, +completing the picturesqueness of a really charming scene, of which the +prevailing tone is a dark grey, stained and almost blackened by +weathering and by age. In the fourteenth century the Close at Exeter was +enclosed with walls, and until comparatively recent times it was built +over. The well-kept Close is peculiar to England. + +The Bishop's Palace dates from about 1381, and is supposed to have been +either built or enlarged by Bishop Courtenay. It was in a very ruinous +condition when Bishop Philpotts set to work to restore it, when many old +fragments of masonry were let into the new work. The fine archway +leading into the cloisters was put up at this time, and the large oriel +window of the library came from another old house in Exeter. Within the +hall of the Palace is an ancient chimney-piece erected about 1486, upon +which are sculptured the Courtenay arms and badges, the arms of England, +and the emblem of St. Anthony. During the Commonwealth the Palace came +into the possession of a sugar baker, and the succeeding bishop was +content to leave him undisturbed. The next occupant of the see, however, +turned the sugar baker out of the house, which he occupied himself. +Several traces of the sugar refinery were discovered when the Palace was +restored by Bishop Philpotts. The Palace Gardens are very extensive, +and are bounded on the south side by the remains of the city wall, upon +which is now a pleasant walk. Near the centre of the wall is a curious +building generally known as the Lollards' Prison, although whether it +ever was used for this purpose is a matter of conjecture. One of the +finest views of the Cathedral is that obtained from a corner of the lawn +in the Palace Gardens. + + +THE EXE + +After leaving the peaceful atmosphere of the Cathedral the noise and +distractions of the modern city grate upon us; the return to the +twentieth-century commonplace after the fourteenth-century refinement is +too sudden, there being no intermediate stage between the one and the +other, between the gloom of the great church and the glare and feverish +hurry of a prosperous city. This being so, we cannot do better than seek +a measure of quietude and repose along the banks of the Exe, a river +which, rising on Exmoor, gives name to Exeter, Exminster, and Exmouth. +Although rising in Somerset, the river may fittingly be claimed as a +Devonian one, as it enters the county a little below Dulverton, where +it receives the waters of the Barle. At the beginning of its career the +Exe flows through a country of great beauty and much romantic interest, +which has been immortalized by R. D. Blackmore in _Lorna Doone_. + +[Illustration: THE EXE AT TOPSHAM] + +This land of Exmoor is a heathery plateau that rivals in everything but +extent the sister moorland which gives birth to that prince of English +rivers, the Dart. + +Dartmoor is larger, wilder, and grander in the bold contours of its +cloud-capped tors, but the wildness of Exmoor is blended with a sweet +and gentle charm which is all its own. It presents us with a panorama of +misty woods, gleaming water, and glowing heather; a combe-furrowed +moorland clothed with scrub oaks and feathery larches. After leaving +this forest shrine the Exe enters Devonshire, where, after flowing +through richly wooded and fertile valleys, it sweeps past the ancient +town of Tiverton, where it is swelled by the waters of the Loman. Three +miles from Tiverton it reaches Bickley Bridge, beyond which it is the +recipient of the Culm, the largest of all its tributaries. Along the +greater part of its course to this point its silver streams thread their +way between sloping hills crowned with hanging woods, and by scenery of +the true Devonian order. At Cowley Bridge, two miles above Exeter, the +river is joined by the Creedy, which, coming from the north-west, flows +through and gives name to _Creedy-ton_, or Crediton. The course of the +Exe, from its source on Exmoor to the sea at Exmouth, is estimated at +about seventy miles. It is a pure pellucid stream until joined by the +Creedy, which imparts to it a reddish colour from the soil through which +the latter flows. + +The importance of the river to Exeter, especially before the waterway +was obstructed by Isabella de Fortibus, Countess of Devon, cannot be +overestimated, and in old books many of the now flourishing ports on the +south coast are described as "creeks under Exeter". From ancient records +it seems certain that an arm of the sea extended to the very walls of +the city, and from the facility thus afforded to commerce, Exeter, at a +very early period, became the great trading port of the West Country. Of +the various trades carried on here those of the woollen and its allied +industries were the most numerous. It was also one of those favoured +English ports to which licences were granted in 1428 for the embarkation +of devout persons and pilgrims who were visiting the great Continental +shrines, and particularly that of St. James at Compostella. Before they +were permitted to leave this country these mediæval devotees were +required to swear a solemn oath that they would "not take with them +anything prejudicial to England, nor to reveal any of its secrets, nor +carry out with them any more gold or silver than what would be +sufficient for their reasonable expense". + +As civilization increased trade and commerce, both foreign and domestic, +kept pace with the growth of the city, and in the reign of Elizabeth the +wool merchants of the county and the woolstaplers of its capital had +risen to fame and opulence. In the year 1560 Queen Elizabeth granted the +traders of Exeter a charter of privileges, and letters patent were +issued forming them into a company under the name of a "Socitie of +Marchante Adventurers of the citie of Exeter". The possession of the +charter induced the citizens to commence the spirited undertaking of +cutting a canal to Topsham, a work that was begun in 1564, and which +constitutes one of the earliest examples of canal navigation in the +country. "But why", it may be asked, "did the need for cutting a canal +arise when the river flowed up to the heart of the city?" The need arose +in consequence of the obstruction of the natural waterway near Topsham, +by Isabella de Fortibus, Countess of Devon, with the result that no +ships could proceed beyond Countess Weir, at Topsham, 4 miles below +Exeter. The first obstruction was placed in the river by Isabella de +Fortibus, about the year 1284, owing to a dispute she had with the +merchants of the city concerning various dues. The merchants appealed to +Henry III, who ordered the obstruction to be removed, but so powerful +were the Earls of Devon in those days that no steps were taken to +restore the navigation of the waterway. In 1312 the river was still +further obstructed by Hugh Courtenay, Earl of Devon, the first member of +the Courtenay family to hold the earldom. Tradition states that the +motive for the earl's action was the displeasure he felt towards the +mayor and citizens of Exeter on the following occasion. His steward was +sent into the city to buy fish, and the bishop's steward having been +sent for the same purpose, the two servants met in the market on a day +when there were only three kettles of fish for sale. Each of the +stewards wanted the whole of the supply, and after a quarrel the mayor +was sent for to decide the issue, which he did by giving each of the +stewards one basket and retaining the third for the use of the citizens. +The mayor was in the service of the earl, who, hearing of the decision, +visited the city and sent for the mayor. The latter summoned the +citizens to meet him at the Guildhall, where he explained to them the +cause of the earl's displeasure and requested them to accompany him. +According to Tyacke, the Exeter historian, "being come to the Earl's +house, the mayor was conducted to his lodging chamber and the door +closed on him; and finding that none of his speeches would satisfy the +Earl, who stormed at him, he took off an outer coat he then wore (it +being the Earl's livery), and delivered it to him again; at which the +Earl fell into a greater passion. The commons attending at the door, +doubting the mayor's safety, knocked, and demanded their mayor. Being +several times denied they attempted to break open the door, which the +Earl apprehending and fearful of what might ensue, entreated the mayor +to pacify the people, which was soon done, and they all peaceably +returned. And though the Earl then, to avoid the fury of the people, +seemed pacified, he could never afterwards show a good countenance to +the city." + +[Illustration: COUNTESS WEIR] + +In order to revenge himself on the citizens he built a quay at Topsham, +and compelled all merchants and captains of ships to unload their +cargoes and convey them by wagon to the city, to the inconvenience of +the merchants and his own profit. He also took from the citizens their +rights of fishing in the river, and oppressed them in various ways. Some +years later Edward Courtenay, nephew of Hugh, still further blocked the +waterway by erecting two other weirs, under the pretext of building some +mills. Many complaints were made to the king, and various writs were +issued against the earls, but no one dared to enforce them. For four +hundred years the feud continued over what was apparently the +destination of a kettle of fish, although in later days there is no +doubt that the earls' motives were to increase the income of their own +port of Topsham at the expense of Exeter. On the receipt of Queen +Elizabeth's charter in 1560 the citizens at length decided to construct +a canal to Topsham. This was begun in 1564 and completed in 1697, and it +is one of the earliest examples of canal navigation in the country. +Topsham is now a little port, whose shipping trade is confined to small +coasting schooners and fishing smacks. The Church of St. Margaret is +very large, and, with the exception of the tower, has been almost +entirely rebuilt. Near Topsham the Exe is joined by the little River +Clyst, and just below the confluence the Exe expands until it is more +than a mile in width. From the Clyst many villages take name, as Clyst +St. Lawrence, Broad Clyst, Honiton Clyst, Clyst St. Mary, and Clyst St. +George. The last two are near Topsham and were the scene of a struggle +during the Prayer Book Riots. In Devon the insurrection started on +Whit-Monday, 1549, at Sampford Courtenay, the day following that on +which the Act altering the Church service came into force. The people of +the village insisted on the priest saying the usual mass instead of the +prayers given in the appointed Book of Common Prayer. The rebellion +spread rapidly, and ten thousand men marched on Exeter, with a good +sprinkling of old Devon families in their ranks; but they were +undisciplined and were quickly dispersed by Lords Grey and Russell. +Although demoralized, the rebels assembled at Clyst St. Mary, which they +fortified. From here they sent word to the king demanding the +continuance of their former Church services, but the king's reply was an +army under the command of Lord Russell, and after a brief resistance +Clyst St. Mary was burned to the ground and the rebels scattered, to be +again beaten and their leaders taken on Clyst Heath. The vicar of St. +Thomas's Church, Exeter--at that time situated outside the walls--one of +the leaders, was hanged from his own church tower. + +On the west bank of the Exe, almost opposite Topsham, are Powderham Park +and Castle, the latter supposed to have been built originally by +Isabella de Fortibus. It has been conjectured, and is indeed highly +probable, that a fortified building or earthwork of some kind occupied +the site at a much earlier date, possibly as early as the Danish +invasions. In later times the manor belonged to the Bohuns, and it came +into possession of the Earls of Devon through the marriage of Margaret +de Bohun with Hugh Courtenay, the third earl. In 1645 the castle was +besieged, unsuccessfully, by Fairfax, but in the following year it was +taken by Colonel Hammond. Until about the middle of the eighteenth +century it remained strongly fortified, but at that time it was +subjected to many alterations. The oldest part of the present castle +dates from the time of Richard II, but the whole fabric has undergone so +many restorations that it presents a great variety of architectural +styles. The fine modern hall contains a fireplace which is a replica of +the one at the Palace, Exeter. The park is a delightful stretch of +greensward, studded with ancient oaks, and it extends for many miles +around the building. In one corner of the park is the little church of +St. Clement, a Perpendicular building of red sandstone, and within which +are several memorials of the Courtenays. These include a recumbent +effigy popularly supposed to represent the renowned Isabella, although +this lady is known to have been buried at Bromnor Priory, Wilts. It is +the opinion of some authorities that this monument is a cenotaph to +Elizabeth, daughter of Edward I, and wife of Humphrey de Bohun, whose +daughter, Margaret, married Hugh Courtenay. On the highest ground of the +park is the Belvidere, erected in 1773, a triangular tower with a small +hexagonal turret at each corner. It is 60 feet high, and from the summit +the view comprises the city of Exeter, the broad estuary of the Exe, +the village of Lympstone, and the little town of Topsham, where the +spars of the ships appear to mingle with the trees on the river's banks. +Looking inland we may see the well-wooded country stretching away in a +succession of hills and combes, until the view is bounded by the +stone-capped heights of Dartmoor in the far distance. + +The parish of Woodbury, on the east bank of the river, contains several +small villages and a large stretch of common. Woodbury Castle is a +well-known earthwork on the top of a high hill; it is probably +prehistoric in origin, although afterwards occupied by the Romans. The +church of St. Swithin at Woodbury has a chancel in the Decorated and a +tower in the Perpendicular styles. The beautiful screen has been +modernized and consequently spoiled, but some good monuments may still +be seen. Nutwell Court, overlooking the estuary, is a modern mansion on +the site of a castle which had been converted into a dwelling house so +early as the reign of Edward IV. It is now the home of the Drakes, of +the same family as the famous sailor of Elizabethan days. Among the +relics preserved here are the cups given to Sir Francis Drake by Queen +Elizabeth on his return from the memorable voyage round the world in the +_Pelican_. Here also is a portrait of Sir Francis by Zucchero. + +Exmouth, although a modern watering-place, has a few points of interest, +being one of the oldest seaside resorts on the south-west coast. + +In the time of King John it was an important port, and it supplied ten +ships and one hundred and ninety-three seamen for Edward III's +expedition to Calais. The principal part of the present town is very +modern, but it is very pleasantly situated. The greater part of the town +is included in the parish of Littleham, whose church, dedicated to St. +Margaret and St. Andrew, is of Early English and Perpendicular +architecture. The Spratshayes aisle was probably built by the Drakes of +Spratshayes. The screen, dating from about 1400, has richly undercut +cornice bands, the Stafford and Wake knots being freely introduced among +the carvings. There are many delightful walks around Exmouth, both along +the coast and inland, the view from Beacon Hill being very fine and +including a large strip of the eastern and the western coastlines that +border the blue waters of the English Channel. + + +PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN + +_At the Villafield Press, Glasgow, Scotland_ + + ++--------------------------------------------------------------------+ +|Transcribers note: | +| | +|In this plain text E and S with a macron is represented by [=S] [=E]| ++--------------------------------------------------------------------+ + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Exeter, by Sidney Heath + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXETER *** + +***** This file should be named 24635-8.txt or 24635-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/4/6/3/24635/ + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/Canadian +Libraries) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Exeter + +Author: Sidney Heath + +Illustrator: E. W. Haslehust + +Release Date: February 18, 2008 [EBook #24635] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXETER *** + + + + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/Canadian +Libraries) + + + + + + +</pre> + + + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="frontis" id="frontis"></a> +<img src="images/i002.jpg" width="650" height="435" alt="EXETER FROM THE CANAL" title="" /> +<span class="caption">EXETER FROM THE CANAL</span> +</div> + + +<h1>EXETER</h1> + +<h2>Described by Sidney Heath</h2> + +<h2>Pictured by E. W. Haslehust</h2> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 213px;"> +<img src="images/i003.jpg" width="213" height="300" alt="" title="title decoration" /> +</div> + +<p class="center">BLACKIE AND SON LIMITED LONDON, GLASGOW AND BOMBAY 1912<br /><br /></p> + + +<div class="centerbox bbox"> +<h2>Beautiful England</h2> + +<h4><i>Volumes Ready</i></h4> + +<div class="cpoem"> +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><span class="smcap">Oxford</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The English Lakes</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Canterbury</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Shakespeare-Land</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The Thames</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Windsor Castle</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cambridge</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Norwich and the Broads</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The Heart of Wessex</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The Peak District</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The Cornish Riviera</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dickens-Land</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Winchester</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The Isle of Wight</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chester</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">York</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The New Forest</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hampton Court</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Exeter</span></span><br /> +</p></div> + +<h4><i>Uniform with this Series</i></h4> + +<h2>Beautiful Ireland</h2> + +<div class="cpoem"> +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">LEINSTER</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ULSTER</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">MUNSTER</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">CONNAUGHT</span><br /> +</p></div></div> + +<p><br /><br /></p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> + + + + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" width="65%" cellspacing="0" summary="LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS"> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='right'>Page</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Exeter from the Canal</td><td align='right'><a href='#frontis'><b><i>Frontispiece</i></b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Quay</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_8'><b>8</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Guildhall Porch</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_14'><b>14</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Mol's Coffee House</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_20'><b>20</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rougemont Castle</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_26'><b>26</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>St. Mary Steps</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_32'><b>32</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Cathedral from the Palace Grounds</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_38'><b>38</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Sanctuary, Exeter Cathedral</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_42'><b>42</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Old Courtyard in the Close</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_46'><b>46</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Abbot's Lodge</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_50'><b>50</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Exe at Topsham</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_54'><b>54</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Countess Weir</td><td align='right'><a href='#i081'><b>58</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Plan of Exeter Cathedral</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_4'><b>4</b></a></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 342px;"> +<img src="images/i006tb.jpg" width="342" height="500" alt="" title="Plan of Exeter Cathedral" /> +<br /><span class="link"><a href="images/i006.jpg">View larger image</a></span> +</div> + +<h4>Plan of Exeter Cathedral</h4> + + + + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<img src="images/i007.jpg" width="650" height="351" alt="" title="EXETER" /> +</div> +<h2><a name="THE_CITY" id="THE_CITY"></a>THE CITY</h2> + + +<p>Just as the five cities of Colchester, Lincoln, York, Gloucester, and +St. Albans, stand on the sites and in some fragmentary measure bear the +names of five Roman municipalities, so Isca Dumnoniorum, now Exeter, +appears to have been a cantonal capital developed out of one of the +great market centres of the Celtic tribes, and as such it was the most +westerly of the larger Romano-British towns. The legendary history of +the place, both temporal and ecclesiastical, goes far back to the days +when, for a late posterity, it is difficult to separate fact from fable. +It is, however, quite established that here was the capital of the +Dumnonii, the British tribe whose dominions included both Devonshire and +Cornwall, and who named their capital <i>Caer-uisc</i>, the city of the +waters.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span></p> + +<p>With the coming of the Saxons, the river, the Roman Isca, became the +Exa, and the city was called Exanceaster, modified in due course to +Exeter.</p> + +<p>In point of position, on a mound rising from the river, it was a +splendid site for a fortress in the days of hand-to-hand warfare, and +the military value of the site lends support to the statement of some +writers that the Romans utilized the British fortifications and built a +castle. In few places of its size can one see so clearly the extent of +the old walled town, while the disposition and formation of its outer +ring of houses, on the lower slopes of the mound, show very clearly the +limits of the mural circumvallation before the city burst asunder its +tight-fitting belt of stone, within which, for the safety of its +populace, it had been imprisoned for centuries.</p> + +<p>Climb the higher parts for a bird's-eye view of the city, and the scene +is entrancing. We look down upon the calm-flowing Exe threading its way +through the valley till it debouches at Exmouth; on the riverside +beneath us is the quay, with coasting schooners and barges moored +alongside, and sundry bales of merchandise heaped upon the wharf, as +though the people were playing at commerce to remind the world at large +that Exeter was once an important port, although some ten miles from the +river's mouth.</p> + +<p>But the Exe, in a quiet way, has much to boast<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> of in the nature of +beauty and romance, particularly where it flows past the wooded grounds +of Powderham Castle, the Devonshire seat of the great Courtenay family. +Truly there is much to redeem modern Exeter and make it interesting over +and above its historical atmosphere. Yet with comparatively few vestiges +of age the city has an historical past. In both a religious and a +military sense she has played a part in the annals of England, and more +than one ancient document in the Library of the Dean and Chapter bears +testimony to her honour, her valour, and her glory.</p> + +<p>It is a city which has the impress of many ages and many minds stamped +upon it. Here each influence—military from the Roman legions, +ecclesiastical from the Saxon prelates, feudal from the Norman +lords—has sunk deeply into the land, and has affected the general plan +of the numerous buildings, as it has moulded the slowly succeeding +phases of the civic and the religious life. It is no mere dream of the +early ages, no sentimental reverie of mediævalism. It is enough to go +through the streets, noting the remnants of the ancient walls, the +brutal strength of the surviving fragment of the castle, the sheltered +position of the tidal basin, the many churches dedicated to the honour +of Saxon saints, the proud beauty and massiveness of the Cathedral, if +one would realize, not the fancies of the artist and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> poet, but the +hard facts of history that made the ancient days so great, and which +have caused our own days to be so full of their memories.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 433px;"> +<img src="images/i011.jpg" width="433" height="650" alt="THE QUAY" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE QUAY</span> +</div> + +<p>As compared with the sister counties of Cornwall and Dorset, Devonshire +is not particularly well represented in memorials of the Roman +occupation, although an immense number of Roman coins have been +unearthed at various times. Coins, however, unless found with definite +structural remains, indicate presence rather than a settled occupation, +for large quantities of the Roman coinage must have continued in +circulation long after the last of the legions of imperial Rome had +departed from British shores. The few Roman antiquities of Exeter that +have been found are important in a comparative sense, although they +contrast poorly in structural character with those of our other +Romano-British towns. It has been held that not only were the +foundations of the city walls Roman, but part of the existing remains of +Rougemont Castle have also been assigned to this period.</p> + +<p>Mr. L. Davidson was of opinion that the old church tower of St. Mary +Major (now removed) exhibited traces of Roman work, and foundations +presumed to be Roman were noted by him as having been found at the +corner of Castle Street and High Street, in St. Mary Arches Street, +Bedford Circus, Market Street, South Street, and Mint Lane.</p> + + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span></p> + +<p>In 1836 more definite structural remains were found in High Street, +consisting of a family sepulchral vault, 7 feet square, arched over, and +containing five coarse cinerary urns arranged in niches around its +interior. This was discovered behind the "Three Tuns" inn, and during +the same year at a great depth below the site of the County Bank, a +low-arched chamber was found in which were a quantity of bones of men +and animals.</p> + +<p>No Exonian find, however, exceeds in interest the discovery, in 1833, of +a bath and tesselated pavement behind the Deanery walls in South Street. +The walls were of Heavitree stone and brick, and the original pavement +was of black-and-white tesseræ set in concrete. The associated remains +of a thirteenth-century encaustic-tile pavement indicates the use of the +old Roman bath a thousand years or so after it had been made. Several +other tesselated pavements are recorded as having been found in Pancras +Lane, on the site of Bedford Circus, and on the north side of the +Cathedral near the Speke Chapel. In 1836 a small bronze figure of Julius +Cæsar (now in the British Museum) about three inches in height, was dug +up during the removal of some walls in the Westgate quarter of the city. +The only recorded find of a military weapon is the bronze hilt of a +dagger unearthed in South Street in 1833. This is of more than passing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> +interest, as it bears the name of its owner—E. MEFITI. ĚO. +FRIŠ.—which has been read thus: "Servii or Marcii Mefiti Tribuni +Equitum Frisiorum"—Servius or Mercius Mefitus, tribune of the Frisians.</p> + +<p>The antiquary Leland mentions two Roman inscriptions as built into the +city wall near Southernhay, but they are gone, and besides the inscribed +dagger we have only a seal of Severius Pompeyus, and sundry graffiti or +funereal pottery, in the way of literary relics of Roman Exeter. The +poverty of Devonshire in memorials of the Roman period is shown by the +fact that, outside Exeter, there are not a dozen places in the county +which have yielded Roman vestigia other than coins.</p> + +<p>In 926 the Britons were driven from Exeter by Athelstan, who banished +them into Cornwall, and fixed the River Tamar as their boundary. +Athelstan was one of the greatest benefactors the city has had; for, in +addition to increasing the fortifications by means of a massive wall +flanked by towers, he built a castle on the Red Mount, now known as +Rougemont Castle. Although very little of this now remains, a portion of +the ruins is generally known as "Athelstan's Tower", and has a window +with a triangular head, which is certainly of Saxon style and date. In +932 Athelstan rebuilt the Monastery of Our Lady and St. Peter, staffing +it with monks of the Benedictine<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> Order, and presenting them with the +reputed relics of St. Sidwell, a saint who is still somewhat of a puzzle +to ecclesiologists. A few years later the monastery was plundered by the +Danes, when the monks beat a hasty retreat, but returned in 968 on the +entreaty of King Edgar. A mint was shortly established here, wherein the +first coins were struck naming Athelstan "King of England".</p> + +<p>The Danes made continuous raids in the neighbourhood, but were +decisively defeated by the West Countrymen in 1001, at Pinhoe, a few +miles from Exeter. From that time until the treacherous massacre of the +Danes in Wessex upon St. Brice's Day in 1002 by Ethelred, this part of +the country was comparatively free from their inroads; but Gunhilda, the +sister of Swegen, King of Denmark, being among the slain, this king came +to avenge her death. He sailed up the Exe, burning and plundering the +villages on its banks, and for four years his army marched in every +direction across Wessex, and was at length induced to withdraw on being +paid a <i>wergeld</i> (war tax) which was first levied on Exeter.</p> + +<p>After the Battle of Hastings, Gytha, the mother of Harold, took refuge +in Exeter, and Leofric, the bishop, offered to render homage to William +as Royal suzerain; but the Conqueror would have no half-hearted +submission, so Exeter closed its gates to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> Normans. It held out for +eighteen days, when the military science of the Normans, and +particularly the skill they showed in undermining the walls, caused it +to surrender. The resistance won the besiegers' respect and brought +unusually good terms from so ruthless a victor as William. The lives of +the garrison were spared, Gytha was allowed to seek safety by sea, and +it has been said that the victorious troops were withdrawn from the city +gates to prevent them from claiming the licentious privileges so +generally granted to their followers by the Norman kings.</p> + +<p>As is fitting for its county town, the first entry in the Devonshire +Domesday deals with Exeter, in which city, it is recorded, the king had +285 houses rendering customary dues. The generally debased character of +the coinage of the time led to various expedients being adopted by the +Exchequer for securing approximately accurate payment of a specified sum +of money. Among other things the entries in Domesday state that in the +total—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"This (city of Exeter) renders 18 pounds per annum. Of these +Baldwin the Sheriff has six pounds by weight and assay, and Colvin +has of them 12 pounds by tale for the service of Queen Eadgyth".</p></div> + +<p>This entry is significant, for one pound or twenty shillings meant one +pound or twelve ounces troy of silver; and when money was payable by +weight twenty shillings were not taken as the equivalent of one pound<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> +unless they fully weighed one pound. In this instance it is observable +that the portion of the customary dues rendered for the 285 houses, +which went to the Exchequer, was collected by the sheriff under the +strictest rules of weight and assay, whereas the portion allotted to the +widow of Edward the Confessor was received by the tale only. The +authorities took care that the sheriff collected the full amount due to +the Crown, but did not trouble themselves about the ex-queen's share.</p> + +<p>It has been affirmed that it was by the Normans that the fairs of +England were moulded into the shape with which we are most familiar. At +Exeter, in 1276, in reply to a writ of <i>quo warranto</i>, it was +satisfactorily shown that the rights of the city, its fee-farm rent and +its farms, dated from pre-Conquest days. The privileges and emoluments +attached to fairs in large towns were very great. During the time +allotted to them the citizens were often debarred from selling anything, +whereas strangers could vend their wares during the fair, but at no +other period of the year. In Cossin's <i>Reminiscences of Exeter</i> (1877) +we are told how "at Exeter, on the occasion of the Lammas Fair, a +procession yet perambulates the city, one man bearing a pole with a +gigantic stuffed glove at the top of it, the latter being subsequently +hung out at the Guildhall".<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 441px;"> +<img src="images/i019.jpg" width="441" height="650" alt="GUILDHALL PORCH" title="" /> +<span class="caption">GUILDHALL PORCH</span> +</div> + +<p>Many of England's reigning sovereigns have visited the city, among them +being Edward IV and Richard III. Henry VII came thither on 7 October, +1497, on the suppression of Perkin Warbeck's rebellion, when that rebel +had attempted to capture the city. The rebels were brought before the +king, bareheaded and with halters round their necks, and after they had +pleaded for mercy Henry pardoned them. On his departure, the king +presented the civic authorities with a sword and cap of maintenance, +both of which are still carried before the Mayor and Corporation on +occasions of state.</p> + +<p>The citizens of Exeter have always been noted for their stanch loyalty +to the reigning house, with the consequence that many rights and +privileges have been granted to it. The city motto, <i>Semper Fidelis</i>, +was conferred by Queen Elizabeth in recognition of the contributions, +both of men and money, made to the fleet that vanquished the Spanish +Armada. That the motto was merited is evident when we recall the fact +that, with the exception of Frobisher and Cavendish, practically the +whole of the leading seamen who chased the Spanish ships along the +Channel were born in the land of the Tamar, the Tavy, and the Dart.</p> + + + +<p>During the early part of the Civil War the citizens were divided in +their sympathies, some supporting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> the Parliament and others the King; +but the city soon fell into the hands of the former. In 1643, however, +Sir Ralph Hopton, the famous Royalist general, marched on Exeter with a +force made all the more formidable for siege purposes by the cannon he +had previously captured at Halton. The immediate capture of the city by +the Royalist forces was expected, the <i>Mercurius Aulius</i> of 1 June, +1643, remarking that: "if the old observation be of any credit, that +cats and mice doe commonly forsake a ruinous and decaying house, that +Citie (Exeter) is not like to continue long in the Rebels' hands". The +proud and rebellious city was assaulted and captured by the Royalist +forces under Prince Maurice on 4 September, 1643, after a siege lasting +sixteen days, and a full account of its fall appeared in the issue of +the <i>Mercurius Aulius</i> of 8 September.</p> + +<p>In May, 1644, Queen Henrietta Maria took up her abode in the city, at +Bedford House, where, on 16 June of the same year, the Princess +Henrietta was born. In the following month Charles I came to see his +little daughter, and again in September, when he appointed Thomas +Fuller, Vicar of Broadwindsor, in Dorset, as chaplain to the princess. +The queen, who had retired to Exeter as a safe place for her +confinement, soon afterwards had to leave there suddenly on the approach +of a Parliamentary army in com<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span>mand of the Earl of Essex. Her Majesty's +easiest way to France was by sea, and to prevent this Cromwell had sent +a fleet to Torbay to intercept her, should she attempt to leave England +by that route. Finding this road closed, she made for Falmouth, from +which port she got safely away.</p> + +<p>During the siege by Fairfax the inhabitants of the city suffered +considerably, owing to the food supplies being intercepted. One day a +flight of larks came into the town, "which were", says Fuller, "as +welcome as quails in the wilderness". The birds were so numerous that, +notwithstanding the prevailing famine, they were sold for twopence a +dozen. "Of this miraculous event", wrote Fuller, "I was not only an eye +but a mouth witness."</p> + +<p>The city capitulated on 13 April, 1646, among the conditions of +surrender being that the Cathedral should be spared, and the garrison +accorded the honours of war.</p> + +<p>After the landing of William of Orange at Brixham, in 1688, he marched +through the county to Exeter and entered the city by its western gate. +He proceeded direct to the Cathedral and took his seat in the bishop's +throne with his chaplain Burnet near him. A few of the prebendaries and +choristers attended the service, but when Burnet began to read the +Prince's Declaration, after the singing of the Te Deum, they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> hurriedly +departed. The bishop, Thomas Lamplugh, had proceeded to James on hearing +that the Dutch had landed, and was rewarded with the Archbishopric of +York. He afterwards assisted at William III's coronation. The Dean of +Exeter had also left the city, and the Deanery was prepared for the +Prince's reception. George III was the last English sovereign to stay in +Exeter, and he also resided at the Deanery.</p> + +<p>Although the Cathedral is the main attraction modern Exeter has to offer +to the tourist, a walk through the historic old city will reveal the +fact that, in addition to some highly interesting old churches, it +possesses a not inconsiderable number of ancient buildings. At the same +time there has been an appalling amount of destruction, some of it +apparently of an unnecessary kind, as the recent dismantling of the +beautiful old courtyard in the rear of Bampfylde House, the city +residence of the Poltimore family.</p> + +<p>The visitor who arrives at Exeter either by the Great Western or the +South-Western Railway, the station of the latter being the more central +of the two, can soon reach the busy and picturesque High Street by way +of Queen Street, one of the broadest thoroughfares in the city. The most +interesting building in High Street, and one that, in this respect, +ranks next to the Cathedral, is the Guildhall, with a portico projecting +over the pavement. It is probably one of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> the oldest municipal buildings +in the country, for in 1330 we find that the Guildhall was in a ruinous +condition, and it was then rebuilt. Again, in 1464, it was built up anew +in a more commodious and efficient manner, while the building as we see +it to-day, with its façade, is the result of still further alterations +in 1592. The entrance porch is separated from the inner hall by a +massive oak doorway, and the hall itself, 60 feet long and 25 feet wide, +is panelled throughout in oak, with a frieze consisting of shields +charged with the arms of former mayors, aldermen, recorders, and of the +city companies. Curious brackets, of figures bearing staves, support the +roof. The judge's chair is of carved oak, and bears the name and date of +the donor: "Christopher Ball, Esq., 1697". On the walls hang six large +portraits, among them those of George III and General Monk, the latter +by Sir Peter Lely, and over this picture hang the colours of the 4th +Devons, a regiment raised in the city by the general in 1681.</p> + +<p>Another portrait here by Lely is of the Princess Henrietta, concerning +which the old records state that: "In 1671 the King (Charles II), in +order to keep his promise made the last year when he visited this city +in person, and as a signal testimony of his love towards the same, was +pleased to send hither the effigy or portraiture, at length and richly +framed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> of his dear sister, the Duchess of Orleans (lately deceased), a +princess born within this city, and for beauty was esteemed to be one of +the fairest in Christendom; which said picture being placed in a fair +case of timber, richly adorned with gold, is erected in the open +guildhall of the said city, there to remain as a perpetual monument of +his majesty's high favour towards this his truly ancient, loyal, and +honourable city of Exeter".</p> + +<p>The upper room is known as the "Mayor's Parlour", where are many more +portraits, and the city sword and cap of maintenance. The scabbard of +the sword, which is the one presented by Edward IV, is still draped in +crape, as it used to be for the processions on "King Charles Martyr's" +Day (30 Jan.). The cap of maintenance presented to the city, together +with his sword, by Henry VII, was sent up to London to be repaired, the +cost for "sarcanet, damask, and pin lace" amounting to four guineas. The +original cap still remains within its covering, and it appears to +consist of two pieces of black felt sewn together. During the fifteenth +century the Chapel of St. George and St. John was built over the +Guildhall, with an apartment above for the priest who served it, the +chapel being probably connected with a religious guild.</p> + +<p>The junction of North and South Streets with Fore and High Streets was +formerly known as the Carfoix,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> or Carfax (<i>quatre voyes</i>, i.e. four +ways), where at one time many executions took place. Here also stood the +ancient conduit which supplied the city with water, but this was removed +to South Street in 1779. At the corner, looking down Fore Street, was a +fine fourteenth-century life-size figure of St. Peter, holding a model +of a church in his right hand and a book in his left, his feet trampling +on a demon. This has been removed from its original position and placed +high up in a niche over a shop close by. On the opposite side of High +Street is St. Petrock's Church, at one time almost hidden from sight by +the adjacent buildings. It is a curious little church, of which portions +have been assigned to the Saxon period. The parish of St. Petrock is in +the centre of the city, and was one of the oldest and most important, +being one of the nineteen churches to which William I ordered the +provost to pay a silver penny yearly. The church was enlarged on the +south side during the fifteenth century, and in the following century +the Jesus aisle was added, when Thomas Chard, acting as Bishop Oldham's +suffragan, reconsecrated the church. The chancel is now towards the east +in what was once an aisle, the original chancel being where the north +aisle is now, with the consequence that the interior of the church has a +very curious appearance.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 434px;"> +<img src="images/i027.jpg" width="434" height="650" alt="MOL'S COFFEE HOUSE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">MOL'S COFFEE HOUSE</span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span></p> + +<p>Farther up High Street, on the same side, are some picturesque houses +with Elizabethan gables, the interiors of many of them adorned with fine +specimens of oak carving in situ. The building now occupied by Messrs. +Green as a drapery establishment was at one time the "New Inn", and it +is mentioned in this capacity so early as 1456 in a lease relating to +the building, in which it is referred to as "le Newe Inne". In 1554 the +cloth mart was established here, and early in the seventeenth century +the New Inn Hall was used as the exchange where the cloth merchants met +to transact their business. The house was rebuilt towards the close of +the century, and the Apollo Room was added as a banqueting hall for the +judges on circuit. This is now used as a showroom, but it still retains +its elaborate plaster ceiling bearing the date 1695, and the original +oak panelling. The frieze consists of a series of wreaths upholding +shields charged with the armorial bearings of many county families, +together with the royal arms and those of the city.</p> + +<p>Farther up the street is the church of St. Stephen, mentioned in +Domesday. The original church was destroyed by the Commonwealth in 1658, +and rebuilt in 1664. Stephen's Bow, the adjacent archway, was always a +part of the church, and above it rises the tower; beneath the church is +an ancient<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> crypt. A turning to the right close by leads to Bedford +Circus, with a statue of the Earl of Devon at the entrance. In the +thirteenth century a Dominican Convent was founded in this part of the +city, and occupied the southern portion of the circus, together with +Chapel Street and the adjoining mews. In 1558 the convent was dissolved, +and Bedford House, the West-Country residence of the Dukes of Bedford, +was erected. Here Henrietta Maria held her Court, and here the little +princess was born. The Dukes of Bedford ceased to use this residence in +the eighteenth century, and in 1773 it fell into the builders' hands, +when the eastern side of the circus was built, the western side not +being begun until 1826. The place to-day possesses no attractive +features, and only the memories of its past history remain. The earlier +excavations brought to light a great number of skulls, bones, and +fragments of sculpture; while during the later building operations, +especially those conducted on the site of the conventual church, a large +number of carved stones were unearthed which had evidently formed part +of the Dominican house. Some of these fragments were richly ornamented +with painting and gilding. Another discovery was the life-size stone +head of an effigy with a hood of closely set ring mail. This is now +preserved in the Cathedral cloisters.</p> + +<p>Returning to High Street, Bampfylde Street lies a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> little higher up. A +great portion of this street is occupied by the front of Bampfylde +House, built by Sir Amyas Bampfylde at the end of the sixteenth century. +In later years this became the town house of the Poltimore family. +Although shamefully modernized the house has retained a few interesting +features. In the hall is seen a narrow window filled with old glass on +which armorial bearings are displayed, while the broad staircase leads +to a fine apartment panelled in oak, and having an elaborate plaster +ceiling. The mantelpiece is a good piece of work and bears the arms of +the Poltimores in its centre. There are one or two other good rooms and +some deep cupboards, and one very small apartment is said to be a +genuine eighteenth-century powdering closet. The beautiful old courtyard +at the back will no longer be recognized by those who knew it a few +years ago. It has been "restored".</p> + +<p>The Church of St. Lawrence is situated on the north side of High Street, +and dates from 1202. It was sold during the Commonwealth, and bought by +the parishioners for £100. On the south side, and slightly farther up, +is St. John's Hospital, situated near to where the old East Gate +formerly stood. The hospital was founded circa 1225 by Gilbert and John +Long. Bishop Grandisson was a great benefactor to it, as, in addition to +increasing the number<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> of inmates and clergy, he added "a master of +grammar and twelve scholars". The foundation was suppressed in 1540, but +in 1620 its restoration was planned by Hugh Crossing and carried out +after his death by his widow. The institution was refounded in +1629—when only the school was revived—and is now known as the "Blue +Boys' School". The playground is partly bounded by a piece of the old +city wall, whence one can look down on the Southernhay Gardens and +obtain a good impression of the strength of the ancient fortifications.</p> + +<p>The seal of St. John's Hospital is an interesting one of +thirteenth-century date on which is depicted the exterior of St. John's +Chapel, which is shown as having a shingled roof and gable crosses; also +an external arcade of three semicircular arches. Another interesting +seal of the same century is that of the Hospital of St. Alexius, founded +in 1170. This foundation, and the hospital of the bishops, formerly on +the site of the present Vicars' College, were afterwards united with the +Hospital of St. John at the East Gate. The seal shows the hospital with +gable crosses, an arcaded clerestory, and three quatrefoil openings in +its wall; beneath is an arcade of six arches.</p> + +<p>High Street merges into Sidwell Street. St. Sidwell's was one of the +nineteen old city parishes although without the walls. The site of St. +Sidwell's<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> Church is said to be on the spot where a saint of this name +suffered martyrdom. She is one of those half-mythical British saints, +said by tradition to have been beheaded by a scythe whilst praying +beside a well. A church is said to have been built in her honour so +early as 749. The present building has undergone repeated restorations, +but some ancient pillars still remain with sculptured capitals, and +there is also a representation of St. Sidwell, or Sidwella, whose +attributes are a well and a scythe. To the monastery he had founded +Athelstan presented some reputed relics of the saint.</p> + +<p>At the top of Sidwell Street is St. Anne's Almshouse, one of the most +interesting foundations in the city. It was originally a hermitage, but +little is known about it until 1418, when it was "newly constructed", +and in 1561 Oliver and George Mainwaring founded a hospital for eight +poor people. The chapel is a small building that has retained its +piscina and two niches for holding figures. The almshouse was fortified +by Fairfax during the Civil War, and for many years the chapel was in a +ruinous condition, but it was restored early in the nineteenth century. +St. Anne's Day, 26 July, has been observed regularly by the inmates of +the charity since its foundation.</p> + +<p>Retracing our steps to the beginning of High Street, and proceeding up +Castle Street, we reach the highest<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> point of the city, the Red Mount, +crowned by the gateway and ruined towers of an ancient castle. The +fortress formed a part of the fortifications erected by Athelstan, and +the Red Tower, with its triangular-headed window, may be confidently +assigned to the Saxon era. During the Norman period the castle was +rebuilt by Brian de Molis. In Stephen's reign it was besieged and taken +from Earl Baldwin de Redvers, who was banished until the following +reign, when his possessions were restored. The castle belonged to the de +Redvers and Courtenay families until 1231, when Henry III presented it +to his brother Richard as part of the earldom of Cornwall. In 1537 Henry +VIII granted Exeter a charter giving the city the privilege of being a +county with its own sheriffs, excepting Rougemont Castle, which still +belongs to the Duchy of Cornwall.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 436px;"> +<img src="images/i035.jpg" width="436" height="650" alt="ROUGEMONT CASTLE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">ROUGEMONT CASTLE</span> +</div> + +<p>In 1774 a large portion of the castle ruins were cleared away, when +several interesting buildings were destroyed, among them the Chapel of +the Blessed Virgin, to make room for the present Assize Court, a plain +building with no pretensions to architectural beauty. On the right of +the castle yard is a little path leading to the top of the walls, whence +a comprehensive view of the city and the neighbourhood can be obtained. +Looking straight across the valley, beyond the county jail, one can see +the site of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> ancient camp of the Danes, against whom Athelstan +built his fortifications, now occupied by the reservoir. At the foot of +the wall are the Northernhay Gardens, a favourite resort with youthful +Exonians. From Northernhay the old walls can easily be traced westwards, +and crossing Queen Street we may proceed down the narrow Maddocks Row to +find the wall pierced by the only archway now remaining. Continuing +westwards we cross North Street, where the old North Gate stood until it +was demolished in 1769. Entering Bartholomew Street East we are on the +ramparts again, and from the bastion near All-Hallows-on-the-Walls +Church we may look down upon the old Bartholomew burying-ground, +consecrated in 1639, and used as the principal city cemetery for nearly +two hundred years. The Church of All-Hallows-on-the-Walls is a modern +one that stands on the site of a more ancient edifice. From this point +one can see the tapering spire of St. Michael's Church, in the grounds +of Mount Dinham, where are the almshouses erected and endowed in 1860 by +John Dinham. Here are forty free cottages and episcopal charity schools, +the latter founded originally in 1709 by Bishop Offspring Blackall.</p> + +<p>Continuing along the bastion the limit of the northern wall is soon +reached. Many of the old streets in this quarter of the city are worth +visiting,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> for in the narrow thoroughfares are some interesting old +houses. In St. Mary Arches Street is the church of the same name, shut +in by houses. It is one of the old parish churches of Exeter, and one +that takes part of its name from the fine Norman pillars and arcade of +the nave, which is the oldest in the city. In the south aisle is a +chantry containing the altar tomb of Thomas Andrews, mayor in 1505 and +1510; and who died in 1518. Mint Street, as its name implies, was +associated with the mint established there by permission of William III. +The coinage minted there may be recognized by the letter E placed +beneath the king's head. Bartholomew Street brings us to Fore Street, a +narrow and very steep thoroughfare, within which is the fine front of +the Tuckers' Hall, belonging to the Incorporated Guilds of Weavers, +Fullers, and Shearmen, chartered in 1490. Close at hand are steps +leading down to Exe Island, which was for many years a subject of +dispute between the Earls of Devon and the citizens; but on the +attainder of Henry, Marquis of Exeter, in 1558, the property reverted to +the Crown. On the conclusion of the Prayer-Book Riots the island was +granted to the city by Edward VI, as a reward for the services it had +rendered the authorities. Most of the old portions of the island have +been destroyed, many of them in recent years, but an interesting +specimen of a Tudor<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> house remains with a covering of slates somewhat +resembling scale armour. Shields appear in the ornamentation, one of +them bearing the Tudor rose. At one time this style of wall covering was +very common in Exeter, but the example in Exe Island is the only one now +remaining.</p> + +<p>On the south side of Fore Street stands St Olave's Church, where, +according to Domesday, a church with the same dedication existed before +the Conquest. It is said traditionally to have been built by Gytha, +Harold's mother, in order that masses might be said for the souls of her +son and Earl Godwin. William I gave the church to the monks of Battle +Abbey, in whose possession it remained until the Reformation. More than +a century later St. Olave's was lent to the French Huguenot refugees, +many of whom settled in Exeter where they established an important +woollen industry. The present church bears few indications of antiquity, +beyond some Norman arches and a little early carving in the tower.</p> + +<p>At the lower end of Fore Street is West Street, marking the western +limit of the old walls. A right-hand turn leads to St. Edmund's Church, +built in the thirteenth century at one end of the old bridge, when it +was known as <i>St. Edmund Super pontem</i>. In 1831 the original structure +was pulled down and the present building begun. It is said to stand +upon<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> some of the arches of the ancient bridge. Turning eastwards we +reach the foot of Stepcote Hill, and the church of St. Mary Steps. A +remarkable exterior feature is the old clock and figures, known locally +as "Matthew the Miller". The dial is enriched with basso-rilievos +representing the four seasons, and in a niche just above is a small +effigy of Henry VIII in a sitting posture, who nods his head as each +hour is struck. On each side is a military figure, their morions crowned +with feathers, javelins held in their right hands, and small hammers in +their left hands, with which they alternately strike the quarter hours +on two small bells at their feet. The name of "Matthew the Miller" is +said to have originated from the punctuality of a miller of that name +who was so regular in going to and from his mill that people set their +clocks by him. The church contains a fine chancel screen, with +twenty-eight panels of painted saints, which was removed from the church +of St. Mary Major. The font is a good one, of Norman date. Just opposite +St. Mary Steps stood the West Gate of the city, which was taken down in +1814.</p> + +<p>The Westgate quarter formed part of the manor of Exe Island, and was +inhabited chiefly by weavers, fullers, dyers, and those whose +occupations required a copious supply of water. The whole of this +district is intersected with narrow lanes and passages, be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span>neath and +around which are many streams diverted from the river to work the mills.</p> + +<p>A few old gabled houses with overhanging upper stories still remain in +this district, but they are in a very dilapidated condition, as will be +noticed by anyone who traverses one of the numerous byways that lead to +South Street, at the lower end of which is Magdalen Street, where are +two very interesting hospitals—"Wynard's" and the "Magdalen". The +former was founded in 1430 by William Wynard, sometime Recorder of the +city, for the habitation of a priest and twelve poor men. The attached +chapel was dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and the hospital was called +"God's House". The founder left many lands and tenements to provide +funds for the establishment. The master might not be absent more than +once or twice in the year, and his total holidays in the twelve months +were never to exceed three weeks and three days. He was also required to +teach from three to nine boys, starting them with the alphabet, and +going on to the "great psalter of the holy David". The foundation passed +eventually into the possession of William Kennaway, who built a vault +within which he was buried.</p> + +<p>The hospital to-day is one of the secular buildings of Exeter most worth +visiting, with its gabled houses, dormer windows, and garden plots. An +archway<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> leads into the courtyard, around which on three sides are +grouped the houses of the twelve pensioners; the chapel occupies the +fourth side of the quadrangle.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 426px;"> +<img src="images/i043.jpg" width="426" height="650" alt="ST. MARY STEPS" title="" /> +<span class="caption">ST. MARY STEPS</span> +</div> + +<p>The Magdalen, or Leper, Hospital, just without the South Gate, was +founded sometime before 1135, for in 1136 we find that Bishop +Bartholomew permitted a continuance of the ancient right by which the +lepers were allowed to collect food twice a week in the market, and alms +on two other days, to all of which the healthy members of the community +naturally objected. In 1244 Bishop Bruere resigned the guardianship of +the leper hospital to the corporation, and was given in its stead the +mastership of the hospital of St. John. One of the mayors of Exeter, +Richard Orange, was a great patron of the lazar house, and when he +himself contracted leprosy he took up his abode in the hospital, where +he died and was buried in the chapel. Even so late as the sixteenth +century there would appear to have been lepers in Exeter, for we find +that in 1580 no one was to be admitted to the Magdalen Hospital except +"sick persons in the disease of the leprosy".</p> + + +<p>In South Street is College Hall, or the Hall of the College of +Priest-Vicars or Vicars Choral, a fine oak-panelled apartment. The +original hall was built by Bishop Brantyngham about 1388, and access was +then gained to it from the Close; the houses of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> priest-vicars +being arranged on each side of a green. All this has now disappeared +with the exception of the hall, which was rebuilt in the fifteenth +century. At one end is a gallery upon the upper panels of which are +paintings representing former bishops of the diocese, beginning with +Leofric. On the carved mantelpiece is the date, 1629, and the owls which +constitute the punning, or allusive, arms of Bishop Oldham. Near the +hall a road leads into the Close, passing the church of St. Mary Major, +a modern building replacing a beautiful old one which appears to have +been needlessly destroyed. On the eastern side of the Close is a +picturesque Elizabethan building known as Mol's Coffee House. At the +time of the Armada it was a private residence. In 1596 the original +house was pulled down and the present building erected. On the +introduction of coffee into England it was opened as a Club and Coffee +House by an Italian named Mol. As such it was a well-known and popular +resort with the citizens of Exeter and the squires of the neighbourhood +until 1829. It is now used as a shop by a firm of fine-art dealers, but +the fine "Armada" room upstairs is willingly shown to all visitors who +express a wish to see it. It is a good panelled room with low windows, +and an elaborate frieze of shields bearing the arms of many ancient +Devonshire families, among them being those of Sir<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> Francis Drake, Sir +Walter Raleigh, and General Monk. Adjoining Mol's Coffee House is the +very small Church of St. Martin, now but rarely used for divine service. +On the Catherine Street side of the church is a building, formerly an +almshouse, which has an attached chapel of much interest dedicated to +St. Catherine. The chapel is conjectured to have been built by the +Annuellor monks, whose college originally stood on the site of Mol's +Coffee House, where traces of it may still be seen in the cellars. The +narrow passage of St. Martin's Lane, known to the present-day citizens +as "Luxury Lane", on account of its shops, leads direct from the busy +High Street to the Cathedral Close.</p> + + +<h3>THE CATHEDRAL</h3> + +<p>The present cathedral church of the diocese of Exeter may be said to be +the third building that has stood on the site. Nothing remains of the +Saxon church elevated to the dignity of a cathedral when the bishopric +was removed from Crediton, and of the Norman church erected by +Warelwast, a nephew of the Conqueror, only the two massive towers are +standing, the remainder of the building belonging almost<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> entirely to +the late Decorated style, of which it is one of the most beautiful +examples we possess.</p> + +<p>The city of Exeter does not appear to have been divided into parishes +until the year 1222, in pursuance then no doubt of Archbishop Langton's +Constitution of the same year. The Cathedral itself was first +constituted a parish by being placed under the charge of a single +dignitary, the dean, by Bishop Briwere, in 1225.</p> + +<p>Four years after he ascended the throne in 1042, Edward the Confessor +gave the united bishopric of Crediton and Cornwall to his chaplain, +Leofric, who, observing that Crediton was an open town, difficult to +fortify against the Danish raiders, obtained from Pope Leo IX permission +to remove the episcopal see to Exeter, when the Benedictine minster of +St. Mary and St. Peter became the cathedral church of the diocese.</p> + +<p>Although no part of this church remains, an ancient seal of the +Cathedral is of special interest as showing some of the architectural +features of the Saxon church. It depicts the west front with two towers, +the northern square and the southern circular, the latter surmounted by +a cross, and pierced by three round openings in the walls. There are two +porches, one in the centre the other in the north tower, and the walls +show indications of characteristic Saxon masonry. On the cen<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span>tral roof +is a large flêche or turret of two stages carrying a weathercock on a +very tall shaft.</p> + +<p>Of the succeeding church the only contemporary pictorial representations +we have are those on early, and somewhat imperfect, seals dating from +the end of the eleventh century. The first has a church with cresting of +fleurs-de-lis on a hipped and tiled roof, two gable crosses, flanking +pinnacles, an arcaded clerestory, and a double door with ornamental +hinges, on each side of which is a quatrefoil opening. The second seal +shows an arcaded building standing on a stone plinth of four courses, +and flanked by towers with conical roofs and ball finials. The roof is +surmounted by a large fleur-de-lis, and exhibits an unusual form of +tiling. A third seal (1194-1206) shows the west front of the Cathedral +with two western towers and a central porch, and a large roof turret. +Another view of the west front occurs on the seal of the Archdeacon's +official, 1267, and in this example there are three pointed towers, the +central one carrying a cross, the others being capped with flag vanes. +In the doorway stands a figure of the official. The two Norman +transeptal towers still standing give the Cathedral a unique appearance, +this arrangement being found nowhere else in England, save at the highly +interesting and not far distant Collegiate Church of Ottery St. Mary.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span></p> + +<p>Having thus briefly sketched from pictorial evidence the architectural +characteristics of the predecessors of the present Cathedral, we may +begin our tour of the building. Exeter is known as a Cathedral of the +Old Foundation, as in pre-Reformation days it was served by secular +canons, and as such it was not refounded by Henry VIII; so that there +has been no break in the continuity of its ecclesiastical history since +its original institution in the days of Leofric. With the exception of +Carlisle, which was served before the Reformation by Augustinian or +Austin canons, all the cathedrals of the Old Foundation were served by +secular canons. It must be remembered that although nearly the whole of +the architectural merit of the Cathedral lies in the interior, and +particularly in the magnificent stone vaulting of the roof, which is the +high-water mark of vaulting on a large scale in England, there are +several portions of the exterior that are worth noting. Externally the +great defect of the building is the low elevation of the body, and the +want of a central tower to counteract the heavy effect produced by solid +square towers at each transept.</p> + +<p>The west front, with its low, embattled screen of figures, is not a very +happy architectural composition, and is not to be compared to the west +fronts of Lincoln and Peterborough, where the figure sculpture is +earlier and better executed than at Exeter. The one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> redeeming feature +of an otherwise unimposing west front, is the Decorated tracery of the +great window, now filled with modern, and not very satisfactory, glass +in memory of Archbishop Temple, who was Bishop of Exeter from 1869 to +1885.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 439px;"> +<img src="images/i051.jpg" width="439" height="650" alt="THE CATHEDRAL FROM THE PALACE GROUNDS" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE CATHEDRAL FROM THE PALACE GROUNDS</span> +</div> + +<p>The elevation of this front consists of three stories: the basement +screen, containing three portals; above this is the west wall of the +nave; and above this again is the nave gable, in which is inserted a +smaller window of the same character as the larger one. The apex of the +gable has a canopied niche, within which is a much-restored effigy of +St. Peter. The sloping walls built on each side, as if purposely to +conceal the buttresses of the nave and its aisles, give this portion of +the church an awkward perspective, and tend to diminish the apparent +height of the whole façade. The screen itself was the last important +addition to be made to the fabric by Bishop Brantyngham (1370-94), and +it is little more than a low stone scaffolding for holding the rows of +figures of saints, kings, and other distinguished persons which fill the +niches. An attempt to identify these sixty-five individuals, with the +aid of early drawings and still earlier documents, may be said to have +established the identities of the majority of the effigies, although +they have suffered so much from rough treatment, restoration, and +weathering that many of the saintly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> emblems and regal attributes are +difficult to decipher at the present time. Two of the figures, which +were broken with falling, were replaced by new and very indifferent +figures by Mr. E. B. Stevens.</p> + + +<p>Some years ago it was found that the whole of this embattled screen was +merely a stone veil erected for the purpose of protecting the original +west front. One or two stones were removed, a little to the right of the +north door of the west entrance, and the inner mouldings exposed. Within +the thickness of the wall is a little chapel dedicated to St. Radegund, +in which Bishop Grandisson prepared his tomb.</p> + +<p>The north side of the Cathedral can be viewed in its entirety from any +part of the well-kept lawns, beneath which lie the bones of the citizens +of seven centuries, but no stones mark their resting places. The most +noticeable feature on this north side is the sturdy Norman tower, +corresponding to its fellow on the south side, the original purposes of +which are still a matter of much discussion among antiquaries. Built by +Bishop Warelwast in the twelfth century, they stood as two distinct and +independent towers, until Bishop Quivil, during the rebuilding of the +Cathedral in 1280-91, ingeniously opened up the inside walls, supporting +the remaining portions of the walls upon arches, thus forming the +interiors of the towers into transepts. The exterior of the northern +tower is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> plain walling for part of its height, when it is divided into +four stages by horizontal bands, each stage containing elaborate Norman +arcading, ornamented with zigzag moulding. It is surmounted with an +embattled parapet with a turret at each angle. In the north wall a fine +Decorated window was inserted by Quivil for the purpose of lighting his +newly made transepts. To make way for this window a portion of the +arcading of the first stage was cut away. The towers are similar to each +other, and they were formerly capped with spires. In 1752 the spire on +the north tower was taken down, that on the south tower having been +removed at a much earlier date. Just below the window, on the face of +the north tower, are the masonry marks of the gable of a house. This was +the old Treasurer's House, wherein Henry VII was lodged when he came to +Exeter to put down Perkin Warbeck's rebellion.</p> + +<p>Near the north tower is the projecting north porch with its embattled +parapet. On the eastern side of the interior are the fragments of what +was once a Calvary, and on the central boss of the roof is a +representation of the Agnus Dei.</p> + +<p>An apartment above is known as the "Dog Whipper's" room, a relic of +those days when an official was appointed whose duty it was to keep +stray dogs out of the sacred building.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span></p> + +<p>On the exterior of the clerestory wall immediately above the porch is a +projection which marks the Minstrels' Gallery, and is lighted by a +window. Along the whole length of the Cathedral, from the west end of +the nave to the east end of the choir, are the flying buttresses that +counteract the thrust of the heavy roof vaulting of the interior.</p> + +<p>At the extreme eastern end of the Cathedral the Lady Chapel and its +sister chantries can be seen to great advantage with their windows +filled with tracery. The great Perpendicular east window is partially +hidden by the more easterly portions of the fabric, but it contains some +fine old glass, on which are full-length representations of nineteen +saints and patriarchs, and many armorial bearings. The full beauty of +the glass can only be seen from the interior. The south side of the +Cathedral is very similar to the northern one, except that the portion +east of the tower is hidden from view by the episcopal palace.</p> + +<p>Once inside the nave, which should be entered by the western portal, the +dullest eye cannot fail to perceive the uniform character of the work, a +quality which gives to this Cathedral a congruity of structural forms +and an architectonic value that is lacking in buildings which exhibit +the styles of various periods. Here we see the complete architectural +expression of one master mind, although the edifice was erected<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> under +the supervision of successive bishops. The present Cathedral was begun +by Bishop Bronescombe (1258-80), to whom is due a portion of the Lady +Chapel. His successor, Quivil (1280-91), furnished designs for the +entire rebuilding of the church, and how faithfully his successors +adhered to these plans is proved by the fact that a great deal of this +Decorated building was erected at a time when the Perpendicular style +was in full swing all over the country. With the exception of the great +east window, which is of the Perpendicular period, the whole of the +interior is of the purest Decorated work, and is the finest, as it is +the most complete, example of this style on a large scale in the +country. Exception has been taken to the lack of height in the nave, due +to the low spring of the vaulting, and there is some justification for +the criticism. The vaulting, however, is exceedingly beautiful, and the +long line of unbroken roof stretching from the west end of the nave to +the east end of the choir is so charming a feature that when inside the +building we no longer regret the absence of a central tower.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 438px;"> +<img src="images/i057.jpg" width="438" height="650" alt="THE SANCTUARY, EXETER CATHEDRAL" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE SANCTUARY, EXETER CATHEDRAL</span> +</div> + +<p>The bosses that unite the vaulting ribs represent a variety of subjects, +the last but one, near the west window, depicting the martyrdom of +Becket. The corbels from which the vaulting shafts spring are mostly +sculptured heads of the Plantagenets; those<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> on each side of the +Minstrels' Gallery depict Edward III and Queen Philippa. This gallery +cuts into the triforium on its north side, and contains niches in which +are sculptured angels with musical instruments. Until the middle of the +last century it was customary for the surpliced choir to sing the Gloria +in Excelsis from the gallery on Christmas Eve.</p> + +<p>The Gothic arches of the nave, large and beautiful, rest upon massive +clustered piers of Purbeck marble. The development of these piers as the +building progressed westwards is clearly seen. Between the Lady Chapel +and the choir is a pier of four shafts, then one of eight, which +eventually develops into one of sixteen shafts, repeated throughout the +length of the nave. Although the tracery of the aisle windows is very +varied in design, each window on the north side has its counterpart on +the south side, and some of the tracery of these windows has a marked +tendency to the flamboyant, thus showing the lateness of much of the +work at Exeter, for what is called the flamboyant style is contemporary +in France with our Perpendicular work, which is a purely English style +unknown on the Continent.</p> + +<p>The choir screen was put up by Bishop Stapledon (1465), but its height +and effectiveness are sadly marred by the great organ placed upon it. +Until comparatively recent years an altar stood on each side of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> this +screen. The great west window of the nave, the beautiful tracery of +which has already been alluded to, was due to Bishop Grandisson +(1327-69). The font at the western end of the south nave aisle was made +specially for the baptism of Princess Henrietta, while the nave pulpit, +erected in 1877, to the memory of Bishop Patteson of Melanesia, "is", +says the Rev. Baring-Gould, "much of a piece with the stuff turned out +by clerical tailors and church decorators who furnish us with vulgar +designs in illustrated catalogues".</p> + +<p>The transepts, as we have seen, were bored by Quivil through the two +Norman towers built by Warelwast, and in consequence are of small +dimensions. In the north tower is the great bell called "Peter", which +was brought from Llandaff by Bishop Courtenay towards the end of the +fifteenth century, and which weighs 12,500 lb., the only heavier bell in +this country being great "Tom of Oxford", the weight of which is 17,000 +lb. "Peter" was rung formerly by the united exertions of twenty-four men +using two ropes and double wheels, but it was cracked on 5 November, +1611, from a "too violent ringing in commemoration of the Gunpowder +Plot".</p> + +<p>In 1752 the bell was placed in the lower part of the tower, and so fixed +in a massive framework of timber that it cannot now be rung; it is, +however, used as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> a clock bell, and the sound of its deep notes can be +heard at a great distance. The old clock in the same transept has been +regarded as the gift of Bishop Courtenay, but this is doubtful, as from +entries in the fabric rolls it seems that the clock was constructed more +than a century before that prelate presided over the see. If so, the +clock would date from about 1317. This ancient clock is very remarkable, +being constructed upon the idea that the earth and not the sun was the +centre of the solar system. It shows the hour of the day and the age of +the moon. The dial is about seven feet in diameter, and on it are two +circles, one numbered from 1 to 30 for the age of the moon, the other +numbered from 1 to 12 twice over, for the hours. In the centre of the +dial a semi-globe is fixed representing the earth, around which a +smaller globe indicating the moon revolves monthly, and by turning on +its axis as it revolves, shows the various lunar phases. Between the two +circles is a third globe representing the sun, with an attached +fleur-de-lis which points to the hours as the ball revolves around the +earth. In 1760, more works were added—to show the minutes, which are +painted in a circle. The works of the clocks have been renewed many +times, and are now placed in the disused chantry of Sub-Chanter Sylke, +situated in the northeast corner of the transept, just below the ancient +clock.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span></p> + +<p>On the eastern side of this transept is St. Paul's Chapel, now used as a +vestry.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 432px;"> +<img src="images/i063.jpg" width="432" height="650" alt="OLD COURTYARD IN THE CLOSE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">OLD COURTYARD IN THE CLOSE</span> +</div> + +<p>The south transept, that corresponds with the northern one, is formed +from the lower part of the south tower, which contains a fine set of +bells, although only ten of them are now rung. There are some +interesting monuments in this transept. Here are the great Courtenay +tomb, originally occupying a place in the nave; the Elizabethan tomb of +Sir John Gilbert, brother of Sir Humphrey Gilbert and half-brother to +Sir Walter Ralegh; and the monument to Sir Peter Carew. A niche in the +wall holds a few fragments of sculptured stone saved from the tomb of +Leofric, first Bishop of Exeter, who was buried in "the crypt of his own +church". A marble slab against the south wall is believed to be the +resting place of "Bishop John the Chanter" (1186-91). A small door in +this transept leads to the Chapel of the Holy Ghost and to the Chapter +House.</p> + + + +<p>On the roof of the south choir aisle are bosses carved with +representations of the heads of Edward I and Queen Eleanor. This aisle +contains many interesting effigies, among them two of those of unknown +knights, considered to commemorate Sir Humphrey de Bohun and Sir Henry +de Ralegh. The body of the latter knight was the cause of a contention, +between the Dean and Chapter of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> Cathedral and the Dominican +Friars, in the year 1301. The quarrel was a bitter one, and lasted for +five years. The Dean and the Chapter affirmed that from time immemorial, +and by special arrangement with the friars, they had the right to have +all bodies which were intended to be buried in the Dominican church, +with the exception of those which belonged to the convent, brought to +the Cathedral with the usual wax and offerings for the first mass. The +friars refused to allow Sir Henry Ralegh's body to be taken to the +Cathedral, and they claimed the wax and offerings. After a lengthy +dispute the executors and friends of the knight took his body to the +Cathedral, where the usual mass was celebrated, after which the body, +with the bier and pall belonging to the friars, was carried back to the +convent doors. The friars now refused to readmit the body, upon which +the executors took it again to the Cathedral, "and after keeping it for +a day and a night, and the friars still refusing to receive it, they +carried it to be buried in the Cathedral, as it could not be left longer +unburied owing to the stench (<i>fetare</i>)".</p> + +<p>On the south side of the aisle is the Chapel of St. James, which was +built by Bishop Marshall and restored by Quivil in the early Decorated +style. The vaulting and the windows are similar to those of the choir +aisles. Over it was formerly the muniment room,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> but in 1870 the +archives were removed to the Chapter House for greater safety. During +some excavations a crypt was found beneath the chapel with a finely +groined roof. The crypt now contains the machinery used for blowing the +organ. The next chapel on the south side is the chantry of Bishop +Oldham, or St. Saviour's Chapel, richly decorated with carvings, among +which the "owl" of the bishop, forming part of the rebus of his name, is +prominent. His armorial bearings are also charged with the three owls. +The effigy of the prelate rests beneath an ogee arch, and is lavishly +coloured, although the original work has been restored by Corpus Christi +College, Oxford, in memory of Bishop Oldham, who contributed 6000 marks +to the collegiate foundation. On the south side of the Lady Chapel is +St. Gabriel's Chapel, built by Bishop Bronescombe in honour of his +patron saint. Here lies the effigy of the bishop in a carved and richly +gilded tomb.</p> + +<p>The Chapel of St. Mary Magdalene, originally built by Bronescombe, was +altered by Quivil. It has a Perpendicular screen and some +fifteenth-century glass in the east window. Close by, on the north side +of the north choir aisle, is Sir John Speke's Chantry, or St. George's +Chapel, of Perpendicular work and containing the effigy of the knight. +When the Cathedral was divided into two parts, in Puritan days, a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> +doorway was made where the altar now stands, leading into "East +Peter's". On the north side of the choir aisle is St. Andrew's Chapel, +corresponding with that of St. James on the south. By the north wall is +the large sixteenth-century monument of Sir Gawain Carew, his wife, and +his nephew, Sir Peter Carew (1571). The effigy of the last-named is +cross-legged, and so late an example of this disposition of the lower +limbs supports the now generally accepted archæological fact that the +cross-legged attitude had no particular reference to the romantic wars +of the Crusades.</p> + +<p>Other interesting monuments in this aisle are the cross-legged effigy of +Sir Richard de Stapledon, half-brother to the bishop, and that of Bishop +Stapledon. The latter, although in the choir, is seen to better +advantage from below. A story runs to the effect that while Sir Richard +was riding one day in London with his brother, a cripple laid hold of +his horse by one of the fore legs, throwing both horse and rider to the +ground, and causing the knight's death, hence the name "Cripplegate". +Bishop Stapledon was Treasurer to Edward II, and held London against +Queen Isabella. The bishop was taken prisoner, and condemned to death at +a mock trial. He was beheaded at Cheapside, and his body cast on a +rubbish heap, whence it was eventually taken to Exeter and accorded an +honourable burial.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 437px;"> +<img src="images/i069.jpg" width="437" height="650" alt="THE ABBOT'S LODGE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE ABBOT'S LODGE</span> +</div> + +<p>No examples of miserere carvings are known in English churches before +the thirteenth century, and the set at Exeter are probably the earliest +we have, the character of their foliage denoting the Early English +period. They are thought to have been the gift of Bishop Bruere +(1224-44). The complete set numbers forty-nine, and among the subjects +represented are a merman and a mermaid, an elephant, and a knight +slaying a leopard.</p> + +<p>The choir stalls, carved to illustrate the <i>Benedicite</i>, the pulpit, and +the reredos are all modern, having been erected from designs by Sir +Gilbert Scott. The lofty tapering bishop's throne, an essential feature +of every cathedral church, is the most remarkable of the choir fittings. +It has been ascertained from the fabric rolls that it was the gift of +Bishop Stapledon (1465), and the exact sum paid for the work and timber +was just under thirteen pounds, a considerable sum of money when its +modern equivalent is calculated. The throne consists of a series of +pinnacles and niches, rising in diminishing tiers until the crowning +pinnacle almost reaches to the clerestory window. There is not a single +nail in the whole of this canopied seat, although it rises to a height +of more than sixty feet from the choir floor. It has been taken to +pieces on at least two occasions; once by the son of Bishop Hall, when +it was hidden away during the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> Civil Wars to save it from Cromwell's +troopers, and a second time by Sir Gilbert Scott, for the purposes of +cleaning. It is highly probable that the oak of which it is made came +from Chudleigh, some ten miles away, where the bishops of Exeter had a +palace, of which fragments remain in Palace Farm.</p> + + + + +<p>The beautiful stone sedilia was due to Stapledon. Above the seat are +three arches 10 feet in height, surmounted by elaborately designed +tabernacle work. The arches spring from three carved heads reputed to be +those of St. Edward the Confessor, Leofric, and Edith.</p> + +<p>The Lady Chapel is at the eastern end of the choir, from which it is +separated by a broad ambulatory, and within it are the tombs of Bishops +Stafford, Bronescombe, Simon of Apulia, and Bartholomew, as well as the +tomb of Sir John Doddridge. A plain slab marks the resting place of +Bishop Quivil, the stone bearing an incised cross and around it the +inscription—</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 6em;">"PETRA TEGIT PETRUM</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 6em;">NIHIL OFFICIAT SIBI TETRUM".</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>The large number of interments in Lady Chapels was due to the perfectly +natural desire of our forefathers to be laid to rest in the chapel +dedicated to the Blessed Virgin.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span></p> + +<p>The cloisters stood formerly on the south side, in front of the Chapter +House. They were so sadly mutilated by the Cromwellian troopers that +houses were erected and a weekly market held on the site. In 1887 a +portion of the ruinous cloister was restored, so that a new cathedral +library could be placed above it for the purpose of housing the valuable +libraries bequeathed to the Cathedral, no more space being available in +the Chapter House. An interesting manuscript, preserved in the library +of the Devon and Exeter Institution, contains many references to the +city which have not been recorded by other historians. With reference to +the cloisters the unknown author of this manuscript says:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"1657. The Cloysters neer to Peters churche was converted into the +serdge markett, which was before in Southgate street.</p> + +<p>"1660. The wall which divided East & West Peters was taken downe in +Decembe<sup>r</sup> and in the month following the serdg markett was removed +out of the Cloystures, and carried againe into Southgate street +whear it was before. Also the uniting of severall parishes into one +was againe made void & each parrish to enjoy her owne priviledges +and lyberties as before."</p></div> + +<p>When Daniel Defoe visited Exeter, in 1723, it had the largest serge +market in England, next to Leeds.</p> + +<p>Although the Close has not succeeded in retaining any of its gates it is +interesting by reason of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> few old houses that still surround it, +whilst behind their gabled roofs rises the double-towered Cathedral, +completing the picturesqueness of a really charming scene, of which the +prevailing tone is a dark grey, stained and almost blackened by +weathering and by age. In the fourteenth century the Close at Exeter was +enclosed with walls, and until comparatively recent times it was built +over. The well-kept Close is peculiar to England.</p> + +<p>The Bishop's Palace dates from about 1381, and is supposed to have been +either built or enlarged by Bishop Courtenay. It was in a very ruinous +condition when Bishop Philpotts set to work to restore it, when many old +fragments of masonry were let into the new work. The fine archway +leading into the cloisters was put up at this time, and the large oriel +window of the library came from another old house in Exeter. Within the +hall of the Palace is an ancient chimney-piece erected about 1486, upon +which are sculptured the Courtenay arms and badges, the arms of England, +and the emblem of St. Anthony. During the Commonwealth the Palace came +into the possession of a sugar baker, and the succeeding bishop was +content to leave him undisturbed. The next occupant of the see, however, +turned the sugar baker out of the house, which he occupied himself. +Several traces of the sugar refinery were discovered when the Palace was +restored<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> by Bishop Philpotts. The Palace Gardens are very extensive, +and are bounded on the south side by the remains of the city wall, upon +which is now a pleasant walk. Near the centre of the wall is a curious +building generally known as the Lollards' Prison, although whether it +ever was used for this purpose is a matter of conjecture. One of the +finest views of the Cathedral is that obtained from a corner of the lawn +in the Palace Gardens.</p> + + +<h3>THE EXE</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<img src="images/i075.jpg" width="650" height="430" alt="THE EXE AT TOPSHAM" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE EXE AT TOPSHAM</span> +</div> + +<p>After leaving the peaceful atmosphere of the Cathedral the noise and +distractions of the modern city grate upon us; the return to the +twentieth-century commonplace after the fourteenth-century refinement is +too sudden, there being no intermediate stage between the one and the +other, between the gloom of the great church and the glare and feverish +hurry of a prosperous city. This being so, we cannot do better than seek +a measure of quietude and repose along the banks of the Exe, a river +which, rising on Exmoor, gives name to Exeter, Exminster, and Exmouth. +Although rising in Somerset, the river may fittingly be claimed as a +Devonian one, as it enters the county<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> a little below Dulverton, where +it receives the waters of the Barle. At the beginning of its career the +Exe flows through a country of great beauty and much romantic interest, +which has been immortalized by R. D. Blackmore in <i>Lorna Doone</i>.</p> + + + +<p>This land of Exmoor is a heathery plateau that rivals in everything but +extent the sister moorland which gives birth to that prince of English +rivers, the Dart.</p> + +<p>Dartmoor is larger, wilder, and grander in the bold contours of its +cloud-capped tors, but the wildness of Exmoor is blended with a sweet +and gentle charm which is all its own. It presents us with a panorama of +misty woods, gleaming water, and glowing heather; a combe-furrowed +moorland clothed with scrub oaks and feathery larches. After leaving +this forest shrine the Exe enters Devonshire, where, after flowing +through richly wooded and fertile valleys, it sweeps past the ancient +town of Tiverton, where it is swelled by the waters of the Loman. Three +miles from Tiverton it reaches Bickley Bridge, beyond which it is the +recipient of the Culm, the largest of all its tributaries. Along the +greater part of its course to this point its silver streams thread their +way between sloping hills crowned with hanging woods, and by scenery of +the true Devonian order. At Cowley Bridge, two miles above Exeter, the +river is joined<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> by the Creedy, which, coming from the north-west, flows +through and gives name to <i>Creedy-ton</i>, or Crediton. The course of the +Exe, from its source on Exmoor to the sea at Exmouth, is estimated at +about seventy miles. It is a pure pellucid stream until joined by the +Creedy, which imparts to it a reddish colour from the soil through which +the latter flows.</p> + +<p>The importance of the river to Exeter, especially before the waterway +was obstructed by Isabella de Fortibus, Countess of Devon, cannot be +overestimated, and in old books many of the now flourishing ports on the +south coast are described as "creeks under Exeter". From ancient records +it seems certain that an arm of the sea extended to the very walls of +the city, and from the facility thus afforded to commerce, Exeter, at a +very early period, became the great trading port of the West Country. Of +the various trades carried on here those of the woollen and its allied +industries were the most numerous. It was also one of those favoured +English ports to which licences were granted in 1428 for the embarkation +of devout persons and pilgrims who were visiting the great Continental +shrines, and particularly that of St. James at Compostella. Before they +were permitted to leave this country these mediæval devotees were +required to swear a solemn oath that they would<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> "not take with them +anything prejudicial to England, nor to reveal any of its secrets, nor +carry out with them any more gold or silver than what would be +sufficient for their reasonable expense".</p> + +<p>As civilization increased trade and commerce, both foreign and domestic, +kept pace with the growth of the city, and in the reign of Elizabeth the +wool merchants of the county and the woolstaplers of its capital had +risen to fame and opulence. In the year 1560 Queen Elizabeth granted the +traders of Exeter a charter of privileges, and letters patent were +issued forming them into a company under the name of a "Socitie of +Marchante Adventurers of the citie of Exeter". The possession of the +charter induced the citizens to commence the spirited undertaking of +cutting a canal to Topsham, a work that was begun in 1564, and which +constitutes one of the earliest examples of canal navigation in the +country. "But why", it may be asked, "did the need for cutting a canal +arise when the river flowed up to the heart of the city?" The need arose +in consequence of the obstruction of the natural waterway near Topsham, +by Isabella de Fortibus, Countess of Devon, with the result that no +ships could proceed beyond Countess Weir, at Topsham, 4 miles below +Exeter. The first obstruction was placed in the river by Isabella de +Fortibus, about the year 1284, owing to a dispute<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> she had with the +merchants of the city concerning various dues. The merchants appealed to +Henry III, who ordered the obstruction to be removed, but so powerful +were the Earls of Devon in those days that no steps were taken to +restore the navigation of the waterway. In 1312 the river was still +further obstructed by Hugh Courtenay, Earl of Devon, the first member of +the Courtenay family to hold the earldom. Tradition states that the +motive for the earl's action was the displeasure he felt towards the +mayor and citizens of Exeter on the following occasion. His steward was +sent into the city to buy fish, and the bishop's steward having been +sent for the same purpose, the two servants met in the market on a day +when there were only three kettles of fish for sale. Each of the +stewards wanted the whole of the supply, and after a quarrel the mayor +was sent for to decide the issue, which he did by giving each of the +stewards one basket and retaining the third for the use of the citizens. +The mayor was in the service of the earl, who, hearing of the decision, +visited the city and sent for the mayor. The latter summoned the +citizens to meet him at the Guildhall, where he explained to them the +cause of the earl's displeasure and requested them to accompany him. +According to Tyacke, the Exeter historian, "being come to the Earl's +house, the mayor was conducted to his lodging<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> chamber and the door +closed on him; and finding that none of his speeches would satisfy the +Earl, who stormed at him, he took off an outer coat he then wore (it +being the Earl's livery), and delivered it to him again; at which the +Earl fell into a greater passion. The commons attending at the door, +doubting the mayor's safety, knocked, and demanded their mayor. Being +several times denied they attempted to break open the door, which the +Earl apprehending and fearful of what might ensue, entreated the mayor +to pacify the people, which was soon done, and they all peaceably +returned. And though the Earl then, to avoid the fury of the people, +seemed pacified, he could never afterwards show a good countenance to +the city."</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="i081" id="i081"></a> +<img src="images/i081.jpg" width="650" height="434" alt="COUNTESS WEIR" title="" /> +<span class="caption">COUNTESS WEIR</span> +</div> + +<p>In order to revenge himself on the citizens he built a quay at Topsham, +and compelled all merchants and captains of ships to unload their +cargoes and convey them by wagon to the city, to the inconvenience of +the merchants and his own profit. He also took from the citizens their +rights of fishing in the river, and oppressed them in various ways. Some +years later Edward Courtenay, nephew of Hugh, still further blocked the +waterway by erecting two other weirs, under the pretext of building some +mills. Many complaints were made to the king, and various writs were +issued against the earls, but no one dared to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> enforce them. For four +hundred years the feud continued over what was apparently the +destination of a kettle of fish, although in later days there is no +doubt that the earls' motives were to increase the income of their own +port of Topsham at the expense of Exeter. On the receipt of Queen +Elizabeth's charter in 1560 the citizens at length decided to construct +a canal to Topsham. This was begun in 1564 and completed in 1697, and it +is one of the earliest examples of canal navigation in the country. +Topsham is now a little port, whose shipping trade is confined to small +coasting schooners and fishing smacks. The Church of St. Margaret is +very large, and, with the exception of the tower, has been almost +entirely rebuilt. Near Topsham the Exe is joined by the little River +Clyst, and just below the confluence the Exe expands until it is more +than a mile in width. From the Clyst many villages take name, as Clyst +St. Lawrence, Broad Clyst, Honiton Clyst, Clyst St. Mary, and Clyst St. +George. The last two are near Topsham and were the scene of a struggle +during the Prayer Book Riots. In Devon the insurrection started on +Whit-Monday, 1549, at Sampford Courtenay, the day following that on +which the Act altering the Church service came into force. The people of +the village insisted on the priest saying the usual mass instead of the +prayers given in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> appointed Book of Common Prayer. The rebellion +spread rapidly, and ten thousand men marched on Exeter, with a good +sprinkling of old Devon families in their ranks; but they were +undisciplined and were quickly dispersed by Lords Grey and Russell. +Although demoralized, the rebels assembled at Clyst St. Mary, which they +fortified. From here they sent word to the king demanding the +continuance of their former Church services, but the king's reply was an +army under the command of Lord Russell, and after a brief resistance +Clyst St. Mary was burned to the ground and the rebels scattered, to be +again beaten and their leaders taken on Clyst Heath. The vicar of St. +Thomas's Church, Exeter—at that time situated outside the walls—one of +the leaders, was hanged from his own church tower.</p> + +<p>On the west bank of the Exe, almost opposite Topsham, are Powderham Park +and Castle, the latter supposed to have been built originally by +Isabella de Fortibus. It has been conjectured, and is indeed highly +probable, that a fortified building or earthwork of some kind occupied +the site at a much earlier date, possibly as early as the Danish +invasions. In later times the manor belonged to the Bohuns, and it came +into possession of the Earls of Devon through the marriage of Margaret +de Bohun with Hugh Courtenay, the third earl. In 1645 the castle was +be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span>sieged, unsuccessfully, by Fairfax, but in the following year it was +taken by Colonel Hammond. Until about the middle of the eighteenth +century it remained strongly fortified, but at that time it was +subjected to many alterations. The oldest part of the present castle +dates from the time of Richard II, but the whole fabric has undergone so +many restorations that it presents a great variety of architectural +styles. The fine modern hall contains a fireplace which is a replica of +the one at the Palace, Exeter. The park is a delightful stretch of +greensward, studded with ancient oaks, and it extends for many miles +around the building. In one corner of the park is the little church of +St. Clement, a Perpendicular building of red sandstone, and within which +are several memorials of the Courtenays. These include a recumbent +effigy popularly supposed to represent the renowned Isabella, although +this lady is known to have been buried at Bromnor Priory, Wilts. It is +the opinion of some authorities that this monument is a cenotaph to +Elizabeth, daughter of Edward I, and wife of Humphrey de Bohun, whose +daughter, Margaret, married Hugh Courtenay. On the highest ground of the +park is the Belvidere, erected in 1773, a triangular tower with a small +hexagonal turret at each corner. It is 60 feet high, and from the summit +the view comprises the city of Exeter, the broad estuary of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> the Exe, +the village of Lympstone, and the little town of Topsham, where the +spars of the ships appear to mingle with the trees on the river's banks. +Looking inland we may see the well-wooded country stretching away in a +succession of hills and combes, until the view is bounded by the +stone-capped heights of Dartmoor in the far distance.</p> + +<p>The parish of Woodbury, on the east bank of the river, contains several +small villages and a large stretch of common. Woodbury Castle is a +well-known earthwork on the top of a high hill; it is probably +prehistoric in origin, although afterwards occupied by the Romans. The +church of St. Swithin at Woodbury has a chancel in the Decorated and a +tower in the Perpendicular styles. The beautiful screen has been +modernized and consequently spoiled, but some good monuments may still +be seen. Nutwell Court, overlooking the estuary, is a modern mansion on +the site of a castle which had been converted into a dwelling house so +early as the reign of Edward IV. It is now the home of the Drakes, of +the same family as the famous sailor of Elizabethan days. Among the +relics preserved here are the cups given to Sir Francis Drake by Queen +Elizabeth on his return from the memorable voyage round the world in the +<i>Pelican</i>. Here also is a portrait of Sir Francis by Zucchero.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span></p> + +<p>Exmouth, although a modern watering-place, has a few points of interest, +being one of the oldest seaside resorts on the south-west coast.</p> + +<p>In the time of King John it was an important port, and it supplied ten +ships and one hundred and ninety-three seamen for Edward III's +expedition to Calais. The principal part of the present town is very +modern, but it is very pleasantly situated. The greater part of the town +is included in the parish of Littleham, whose church, dedicated to St. +Margaret and St. Andrew, is of Early English and Perpendicular +architecture. The Spratshayes aisle was probably built by the Drakes of +Spratshayes. The screen, dating from about 1400, has richly undercut +cornice bands, the Stafford and Wake knots being freely introduced among +the carvings. There are many delightful walks around Exmouth, both along +the coast and inland, the view from Beacon Hill being very fine and +including a large strip of the eastern and the western coastlines that +border the blue waters of the English Channel.</p> + + +<p class="center">PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN</p> + +<p class="center"><i>At the Villafield Press, Glasgow, Scotland</i></p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Exeter, by Sidney Heath + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXETER *** + +***** This file should be named 24635-h.htm or 24635-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/4/6/3/24635/ + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/Canadian +Libraries) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Exeter + +Author: Sidney Heath + +Illustrator: E. W. Haslehust + +Release Date: February 18, 2008 [EBook #24635] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXETER *** + + + + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/Canadian +Libraries) + + + + + + + + +[Illustration: EXETER FROM THE CANAL] + + +EXETER + +Described by Sidney Heath + +Pictured by E. W. Haslehust + +[Illustration] + +BLACKIE AND SON LIMITED LONDON, GLASGOW AND BOMBAY 1912 + + + +Beautiful England + +_Volumes Ready_ + + OXFORD + THE ENGLISH LAKES + CANTERBURY + SHAKESPEARE-LAND + THE THAMES + WINDSOR CASTLE + CAMBRIDGE + NORWICH AND THE BROADS + THE HEART OF WESSEX + THE PEAK DISTRICT + THE CORNISH RIVIERA + DICKENS-LAND + WINCHESTER + THE ISLE OF WIGHT + CHESTER + YORK + THE NEW FOREST + HAMPTON COURT + EXETER + +_Uniform with this Series_ + +Beautiful Ireland + + LEINSTER + ULSTER + MUNSTER + CONNAUGHT + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS + + + Page + + Exeter from the Canal _Frontispiece_ + + The Quay 8 + + Guildhall Porch 14 + + Mol's Coffee House 20 + + Rougemont Castle 26 + + St. Mary Steps 32 + + The Cathedral from the Palace Grounds 38 + + The Sanctuary, Exeter Cathedral 42 + + Old Courtyard in the Close 46 + + The Abbot's Lodge 50 + + The Exe at Topsham 54 + + Countess Weir 58 + + + Plan of Exeter Cathedral 4 + +[Illustration: Plan of Exeter Cathedral + + A. Lady Chapel. + B. Choir. + C. Screen. + D. North Transept. + E. South Transept. + F. Chapter House. + G. Nave. + H. North Porch. + I. Bishop's Throne.] + + + + +[Illustration: EXETER] + +THE CITY + + +Just as the five cities of Colchester, Lincoln, York, Gloucester, and +St. Albans, stand on the sites and in some fragmentary measure bear the +names of five Roman municipalities, so Isca Dumnoniorum, now Exeter, +appears to have been a cantonal capital developed out of one of the +great market centres of the Celtic tribes, and as such it was the most +westerly of the larger Romano-British towns. The legendary history of +the place, both temporal and ecclesiastical, goes far back to the days +when, for a late posterity, it is difficult to separate fact from fable. +It is, however, quite established that here was the capital of the +Dumnonii, the British tribe whose dominions included both Devonshire and +Cornwall, and who named their capital _Caer-uisc_, the city of the +waters. + +With the coming of the Saxons, the river, the Roman Isca, became the +Exa, and the city was called Exanceaster, modified in due course to +Exeter. + +In point of position, on a mound rising from the river, it was a +splendid site for a fortress in the days of hand-to-hand warfare, and +the military value of the site lends support to the statement of some +writers that the Romans utilized the British fortifications and built a +castle. In few places of its size can one see so clearly the extent of +the old walled town, while the disposition and formation of its outer +ring of houses, on the lower slopes of the mound, show very clearly the +limits of the mural circumvallation before the city burst asunder its +tight-fitting belt of stone, within which, for the safety of its +populace, it had been imprisoned for centuries. + +Climb the higher parts for a bird's-eye view of the city, and the scene +is entrancing. We look down upon the calm-flowing Exe threading its way +through the valley till it debouches at Exmouth; on the riverside +beneath us is the quay, with coasting schooners and barges moored +alongside, and sundry bales of merchandise heaped upon the wharf, as +though the people were playing at commerce to remind the world at large +that Exeter was once an important port, although some ten miles from the +river's mouth. + +But the Exe, in a quiet way, has much to boast of in the nature of +beauty and romance, particularly where it flows past the wooded grounds +of Powderham Castle, the Devonshire seat of the great Courtenay family. +Truly there is much to redeem modern Exeter and make it interesting over +and above its historical atmosphere. Yet with comparatively few vestiges +of age the city has an historical past. In both a religious and a +military sense she has played a part in the annals of England, and more +than one ancient document in the Library of the Dean and Chapter bears +testimony to her honour, her valour, and her glory. + +It is a city which has the impress of many ages and many minds stamped +upon it. Here each influence--military from the Roman legions, +ecclesiastical from the Saxon prelates, feudal from the Norman +lords--has sunk deeply into the land, and has affected the general plan +of the numerous buildings, as it has moulded the slowly succeeding +phases of the civic and the religious life. It is no mere dream of the +early ages, no sentimental reverie of mediaevalism. It is enough to go +through the streets, noting the remnants of the ancient walls, the +brutal strength of the surviving fragment of the castle, the sheltered +position of the tidal basin, the many churches dedicated to the honour +of Saxon saints, the proud beauty and massiveness of the Cathedral, if +one would realize, not the fancies of the artist and the poet, but the +hard facts of history that made the ancient days so great, and which +have caused our own days to be so full of their memories. + +As compared with the sister counties of Cornwall and Dorset, Devonshire +is not particularly well represented in memorials of the Roman +occupation, although an immense number of Roman coins have been +unearthed at various times. Coins, however, unless found with definite +structural remains, indicate presence rather than a settled occupation, +for large quantities of the Roman coinage must have continued in +circulation long after the last of the legions of imperial Rome had +departed from British shores. The few Roman antiquities of Exeter that +have been found are important in a comparative sense, although they +contrast poorly in structural character with those of our other +Romano-British towns. It has been held that not only were the +foundations of the city walls Roman, but part of the existing remains of +Rougemont Castle have also been assigned to this period. + +Mr. L. Davidson was of opinion that the old church tower of St. Mary +Major (now removed) exhibited traces of Roman work, and foundations +presumed to be Roman were noted by him as having been found at the +corner of Castle Street and High Street, in St. Mary Arches Street, +Bedford Circus, Market Street, South Street, and Mint Lane. + +[Illustration: THE QUAY] + +In 1836 more definite structural remains were found in High Street, +consisting of a family sepulchral vault, 7 feet square, arched over, and +containing five coarse cinerary urns arranged in niches around its +interior. This was discovered behind the "Three Tuns" inn, and during +the same year at a great depth below the site of the County Bank, a +low-arched chamber was found in which were a quantity of bones of men +and animals. + +No Exonian find, however, exceeds in interest the discovery, in 1833, of +a bath and tesselated pavement behind the Deanery walls in South Street. +The walls were of Heavitree stone and brick, and the original pavement +was of black-and-white tesserae set in concrete. The associated remains +of a thirteenth-century encaustic-tile pavement indicates the use of the +old Roman bath a thousand years or so after it had been made. Several +other tesselated pavements are recorded as having been found in Pancras +Lane, on the site of Bedford Circus, and on the north side of the +Cathedral near the Speke Chapel. In 1836 a small bronze figure of Julius +Caesar (now in the British Museum) about three inches in height, was dug +up during the removal of some walls in the Westgate quarter of the city. +The only recorded find of a military weapon is the bronze hilt of a +dagger unearthed in South Street in 1833. This is of more than passing +interest, as it bears the name of its owner--E. MEFITI. [=E]O. +FRI[=S].--which has been read thus: "Servii or Marcii Mefiti Tribuni +Equitum Frisiorum"--Servius or Mercius Mefitus, tribune of the Frisians. + +The antiquary Leland mentions two Roman inscriptions as built into the +city wall near Southernhay, but they are gone, and besides the inscribed +dagger we have only a seal of Severius Pompeyus, and sundry graffiti or +funereal pottery, in the way of literary relics of Roman Exeter. The +poverty of Devonshire in memorials of the Roman period is shown by the +fact that, outside Exeter, there are not a dozen places in the county +which have yielded Roman vestigia other than coins. + +In 926 the Britons were driven from Exeter by Athelstan, who banished +them into Cornwall, and fixed the River Tamar as their boundary. +Athelstan was one of the greatest benefactors the city has had; for, in +addition to increasing the fortifications by means of a massive wall +flanked by towers, he built a castle on the Red Mount, now known as +Rougemont Castle. Although very little of this now remains, a portion of +the ruins is generally known as "Athelstan's Tower", and has a window +with a triangular head, which is certainly of Saxon style and date. In +932 Athelstan rebuilt the Monastery of Our Lady and St. Peter, staffing +it with monks of the Benedictine Order, and presenting them with the +reputed relics of St. Sidwell, a saint who is still somewhat of a puzzle +to ecclesiologists. A few years later the monastery was plundered by the +Danes, when the monks beat a hasty retreat, but returned in 968 on the +entreaty of King Edgar. A mint was shortly established here, wherein the +first coins were struck naming Athelstan "King of England". + +The Danes made continuous raids in the neighbourhood, but were +decisively defeated by the West Countrymen in 1001, at Pinhoe, a few +miles from Exeter. From that time until the treacherous massacre of the +Danes in Wessex upon St. Brice's Day in 1002 by Ethelred, this part of +the country was comparatively free from their inroads; but Gunhilda, the +sister of Swegen, King of Denmark, being among the slain, this king came +to avenge her death. He sailed up the Exe, burning and plundering the +villages on its banks, and for four years his army marched in every +direction across Wessex, and was at length induced to withdraw on being +paid a _wergeld_ (war tax) which was first levied on Exeter. + +After the Battle of Hastings, Gytha, the mother of Harold, took refuge +in Exeter, and Leofric, the bishop, offered to render homage to William +as Royal suzerain; but the Conqueror would have no half-hearted +submission, so Exeter closed its gates to the Normans. It held out for +eighteen days, when the military science of the Normans, and +particularly the skill they showed in undermining the walls, caused it +to surrender. The resistance won the besiegers' respect and brought +unusually good terms from so ruthless a victor as William. The lives of +the garrison were spared, Gytha was allowed to seek safety by sea, and +it has been said that the victorious troops were withdrawn from the city +gates to prevent them from claiming the licentious privileges so +generally granted to their followers by the Norman kings. + +As is fitting for its county town, the first entry in the Devonshire +Domesday deals with Exeter, in which city, it is recorded, the king had +285 houses rendering customary dues. The generally debased character of +the coinage of the time led to various expedients being adopted by the +Exchequer for securing approximately accurate payment of a specified sum +of money. Among other things the entries in Domesday state that in the +total-- + + "This (city of Exeter) renders 18 pounds per annum. Of these + Baldwin the Sheriff has six pounds by weight and assay, and Colvin + has of them 12 pounds by tale for the service of Queen Eadgyth". + +This entry is significant, for one pound or twenty shillings meant one +pound or twelve ounces troy of silver; and when money was payable by +weight twenty shillings were not taken as the equivalent of one pound +unless they fully weighed one pound. In this instance it is observable +that the portion of the customary dues rendered for the 285 houses, +which went to the Exchequer, was collected by the sheriff under the +strictest rules of weight and assay, whereas the portion allotted to the +widow of Edward the Confessor was received by the tale only. The +authorities took care that the sheriff collected the full amount due to +the Crown, but did not trouble themselves about the ex-queen's share. + +It has been affirmed that it was by the Normans that the fairs of +England were moulded into the shape with which we are most familiar. At +Exeter, in 1276, in reply to a writ of _quo warranto_, it was +satisfactorily shown that the rights of the city, its fee-farm rent and +its farms, dated from pre-Conquest days. The privileges and emoluments +attached to fairs in large towns were very great. During the time +allotted to them the citizens were often debarred from selling anything, +whereas strangers could vend their wares during the fair, but at no +other period of the year. In Cossin's _Reminiscences of Exeter_ (1877) +we are told how "at Exeter, on the occasion of the Lammas Fair, a +procession yet perambulates the city, one man bearing a pole with a +gigantic stuffed glove at the top of it, the latter being subsequently +hung out at the Guildhall". + +Many of England's reigning sovereigns have visited the city, among them +being Edward IV and Richard III. Henry VII came thither on 7 October, +1497, on the suppression of Perkin Warbeck's rebellion, when that rebel +had attempted to capture the city. The rebels were brought before the +king, bareheaded and with halters round their necks, and after they had +pleaded for mercy Henry pardoned them. On his departure, the king +presented the civic authorities with a sword and cap of maintenance, +both of which are still carried before the Mayor and Corporation on +occasions of state. + +The citizens of Exeter have always been noted for their stanch loyalty +to the reigning house, with the consequence that many rights and +privileges have been granted to it. The city motto, _Semper Fidelis_, +was conferred by Queen Elizabeth in recognition of the contributions, +both of men and money, made to the fleet that vanquished the Spanish +Armada. That the motto was merited is evident when we recall the fact +that, with the exception of Frobisher and Cavendish, practically the +whole of the leading seamen who chased the Spanish ships along the +Channel were born in the land of the Tamar, the Tavy, and the Dart. + +[Illustration: GUILDHALL PORCH] + +During the early part of the Civil War the citizens were divided in +their sympathies, some supporting the Parliament and others the King; +but the city soon fell into the hands of the former. In 1643, however, +Sir Ralph Hopton, the famous Royalist general, marched on Exeter with a +force made all the more formidable for siege purposes by the cannon he +had previously captured at Halton. The immediate capture of the city by +the Royalist forces was expected, the _Mercurius Aulius_ of 1 June, +1643, remarking that: "if the old observation be of any credit, that +cats and mice doe commonly forsake a ruinous and decaying house, that +Citie (Exeter) is not like to continue long in the Rebels' hands". The +proud and rebellious city was assaulted and captured by the Royalist +forces under Prince Maurice on 4 September, 1643, after a siege lasting +sixteen days, and a full account of its fall appeared in the issue of +the _Mercurius Aulius_ of 8 September. + +In May, 1644, Queen Henrietta Maria took up her abode in the city, at +Bedford House, where, on 16 June of the same year, the Princess +Henrietta was born. In the following month Charles I came to see his +little daughter, and again in September, when he appointed Thomas +Fuller, Vicar of Broadwindsor, in Dorset, as chaplain to the princess. +The queen, who had retired to Exeter as a safe place for her +confinement, soon afterwards had to leave there suddenly on the approach +of a Parliamentary army in command of the Earl of Essex. Her Majesty's +easiest way to France was by sea, and to prevent this Cromwell had sent +a fleet to Torbay to intercept her, should she attempt to leave England +by that route. Finding this road closed, she made for Falmouth, from +which port she got safely away. + +During the siege by Fairfax the inhabitants of the city suffered +considerably, owing to the food supplies being intercepted. One day a +flight of larks came into the town, "which were", says Fuller, "as +welcome as quails in the wilderness". The birds were so numerous that, +notwithstanding the prevailing famine, they were sold for twopence a +dozen. "Of this miraculous event", wrote Fuller, "I was not only an eye +but a mouth witness." + +The city capitulated on 13 April, 1646, among the conditions of +surrender being that the Cathedral should be spared, and the garrison +accorded the honours of war. + +After the landing of William of Orange at Brixham, in 1688, he marched +through the county to Exeter and entered the city by its western gate. +He proceeded direct to the Cathedral and took his seat in the bishop's +throne with his chaplain Burnet near him. A few of the prebendaries and +choristers attended the service, but when Burnet began to read the +Prince's Declaration, after the singing of the Te Deum, they hurriedly +departed. The bishop, Thomas Lamplugh, had proceeded to James on hearing +that the Dutch had landed, and was rewarded with the Archbishopric of +York. He afterwards assisted at William III's coronation. The Dean of +Exeter had also left the city, and the Deanery was prepared for the +Prince's reception. George III was the last English sovereign to stay in +Exeter, and he also resided at the Deanery. + +Although the Cathedral is the main attraction modern Exeter has to offer +to the tourist, a walk through the historic old city will reveal the +fact that, in addition to some highly interesting old churches, it +possesses a not inconsiderable number of ancient buildings. At the same +time there has been an appalling amount of destruction, some of it +apparently of an unnecessary kind, as the recent dismantling of the +beautiful old courtyard in the rear of Bampfylde House, the city +residence of the Poltimore family. + +The visitor who arrives at Exeter either by the Great Western or the +South-Western Railway, the station of the latter being the more central +of the two, can soon reach the busy and picturesque High Street by way +of Queen Street, one of the broadest thoroughfares in the city. The most +interesting building in High Street, and one that, in this respect, +ranks next to the Cathedral, is the Guildhall, with a portico projecting +over the pavement. It is probably one of the oldest municipal buildings +in the country, for in 1330 we find that the Guildhall was in a ruinous +condition, and it was then rebuilt. Again, in 1464, it was built up anew +in a more commodious and efficient manner, while the building as we see +it to-day, with its facade, is the result of still further alterations +in 1592. The entrance porch is separated from the inner hall by a +massive oak doorway, and the hall itself, 60 feet long and 25 feet wide, +is panelled throughout in oak, with a frieze consisting of shields +charged with the arms of former mayors, aldermen, recorders, and of the +city companies. Curious brackets, of figures bearing staves, support the +roof. The judge's chair is of carved oak, and bears the name and date of +the donor: "Christopher Ball, Esq., 1697". On the walls hang six large +portraits, among them those of George III and General Monk, the latter +by Sir Peter Lely, and over this picture hang the colours of the 4th +Devons, a regiment raised in the city by the general in 1681. + +Another portrait here by Lely is of the Princess Henrietta, concerning +which the old records state that: "In 1671 the King (Charles II), in +order to keep his promise made the last year when he visited this city +in person, and as a signal testimony of his love towards the same, was +pleased to send hither the effigy or portraiture, at length and richly +framed of his dear sister, the Duchess of Orleans (lately deceased), a +princess born within this city, and for beauty was esteemed to be one of +the fairest in Christendom; which said picture being placed in a fair +case of timber, richly adorned with gold, is erected in the open +guildhall of the said city, there to remain as a perpetual monument of +his majesty's high favour towards this his truly ancient, loyal, and +honourable city of Exeter". + +The upper room is known as the "Mayor's Parlour", where are many more +portraits, and the city sword and cap of maintenance. The scabbard of +the sword, which is the one presented by Edward IV, is still draped in +crape, as it used to be for the processions on "King Charles Martyr's" +Day (30 Jan.). The cap of maintenance presented to the city, together +with his sword, by Henry VII, was sent up to London to be repaired, the +cost for "sarcanet, damask, and pin lace" amounting to four guineas. The +original cap still remains within its covering, and it appears to +consist of two pieces of black felt sewn together. During the fifteenth +century the Chapel of St. George and St. John was built over the +Guildhall, with an apartment above for the priest who served it, the +chapel being probably connected with a religious guild. + +The junction of North and South Streets with Fore and High Streets was +formerly known as the Carfoix, or Carfax (_quatre voyes_, i.e. four +ways), where at one time many executions took place. Here also stood the +ancient conduit which supplied the city with water, but this was removed +to South Street in 1779. At the corner, looking down Fore Street, was a +fine fourteenth-century life-size figure of St. Peter, holding a model +of a church in his right hand and a book in his left, his feet trampling +on a demon. This has been removed from its original position and placed +high up in a niche over a shop close by. On the opposite side of High +Street is St. Petrock's Church, at one time almost hidden from sight by +the adjacent buildings. It is a curious little church, of which portions +have been assigned to the Saxon period. The parish of St. Petrock is in +the centre of the city, and was one of the oldest and most important, +being one of the nineteen churches to which William I ordered the +provost to pay a silver penny yearly. The church was enlarged on the +south side during the fifteenth century, and in the following century +the Jesus aisle was added, when Thomas Chard, acting as Bishop Oldham's +suffragan, reconsecrated the church. The chancel is now towards the east +in what was once an aisle, the original chancel being where the north +aisle is now, with the consequence that the interior of the church has a +very curious appearance. + +[Illustration: MOL'S COFFEE HOUSE] + +Farther up High Street, on the same side, are some picturesque houses +with Elizabethan gables, the interiors of many of them adorned with fine +specimens of oak carving in situ. The building now occupied by Messrs. +Green as a drapery establishment was at one time the "New Inn", and it +is mentioned in this capacity so early as 1456 in a lease relating to +the building, in which it is referred to as "le Newe Inne". In 1554 the +cloth mart was established here, and early in the seventeenth century +the New Inn Hall was used as the exchange where the cloth merchants met +to transact their business. The house was rebuilt towards the close of +the century, and the Apollo Room was added as a banqueting hall for the +judges on circuit. This is now used as a showroom, but it still retains +its elaborate plaster ceiling bearing the date 1695, and the original +oak panelling. The frieze consists of a series of wreaths upholding +shields charged with the armorial bearings of many county families, +together with the royal arms and those of the city. + +Farther up the street is the church of St. Stephen, mentioned in +Domesday. The original church was destroyed by the Commonwealth in 1658, +and rebuilt in 1664. Stephen's Bow, the adjacent archway, was always a +part of the church, and above it rises the tower; beneath the church is +an ancient crypt. A turning to the right close by leads to Bedford +Circus, with a statue of the Earl of Devon at the entrance. In the +thirteenth century a Dominican Convent was founded in this part of the +city, and occupied the southern portion of the circus, together with +Chapel Street and the adjoining mews. In 1558 the convent was dissolved, +and Bedford House, the West-Country residence of the Dukes of Bedford, +was erected. Here Henrietta Maria held her Court, and here the little +princess was born. The Dukes of Bedford ceased to use this residence in +the eighteenth century, and in 1773 it fell into the builders' hands, +when the eastern side of the circus was built, the western side not +being begun until 1826. The place to-day possesses no attractive +features, and only the memories of its past history remain. The earlier +excavations brought to light a great number of skulls, bones, and +fragments of sculpture; while during the later building operations, +especially those conducted on the site of the conventual church, a large +number of carved stones were unearthed which had evidently formed part +of the Dominican house. Some of these fragments were richly ornamented +with painting and gilding. Another discovery was the life-size stone +head of an effigy with a hood of closely set ring mail. This is now +preserved in the Cathedral cloisters. + +Returning to High Street, Bampfylde Street lies a little higher up. A +great portion of this street is occupied by the front of Bampfylde +House, built by Sir Amyas Bampfylde at the end of the sixteenth century. +In later years this became the town house of the Poltimore family. +Although shamefully modernized the house has retained a few interesting +features. In the hall is seen a narrow window filled with old glass on +which armorial bearings are displayed, while the broad staircase leads +to a fine apartment panelled in oak, and having an elaborate plaster +ceiling. The mantelpiece is a good piece of work and bears the arms of +the Poltimores in its centre. There are one or two other good rooms and +some deep cupboards, and one very small apartment is said to be a +genuine eighteenth-century powdering closet. The beautiful old courtyard +at the back will no longer be recognized by those who knew it a few +years ago. It has been "restored". + +The Church of St. Lawrence is situated on the north side of High Street, +and dates from 1202. It was sold during the Commonwealth, and bought by +the parishioners for L100. On the south side, and slightly farther up, +is St. John's Hospital, situated near to where the old East Gate +formerly stood. The hospital was founded circa 1225 by Gilbert and John +Long. Bishop Grandisson was a great benefactor to it, as, in addition to +increasing the number of inmates and clergy, he added "a master of +grammar and twelve scholars". The foundation was suppressed in 1540, but +in 1620 its restoration was planned by Hugh Crossing and carried out +after his death by his widow. The institution was refounded in +1629--when only the school was revived--and is now known as the "Blue +Boys' School". The playground is partly bounded by a piece of the old +city wall, whence one can look down on the Southernhay Gardens and +obtain a good impression of the strength of the ancient fortifications. + +The seal of St. John's Hospital is an interesting one of +thirteenth-century date on which is depicted the exterior of St. John's +Chapel, which is shown as having a shingled roof and gable crosses; also +an external arcade of three semicircular arches. Another interesting +seal of the same century is that of the Hospital of St. Alexius, founded +in 1170. This foundation, and the hospital of the bishops, formerly on +the site of the present Vicars' College, were afterwards united with the +Hospital of St. John at the East Gate. The seal shows the hospital with +gable crosses, an arcaded clerestory, and three quatrefoil openings in +its wall; beneath is an arcade of six arches. + +High Street merges into Sidwell Street. St. Sidwell's was one of the +nineteen old city parishes although without the walls. The site of St. +Sidwell's Church is said to be on the spot where a saint of this name +suffered martyrdom. She is one of those half-mythical British saints, +said by tradition to have been beheaded by a scythe whilst praying +beside a well. A church is said to have been built in her honour so +early as 749. The present building has undergone repeated restorations, +but some ancient pillars still remain with sculptured capitals, and +there is also a representation of St. Sidwell, or Sidwella, whose +attributes are a well and a scythe. To the monastery he had founded +Athelstan presented some reputed relics of the saint. + +At the top of Sidwell Street is St. Anne's Almshouse, one of the most +interesting foundations in the city. It was originally a hermitage, but +little is known about it until 1418, when it was "newly constructed", +and in 1561 Oliver and George Mainwaring founded a hospital for eight +poor people. The chapel is a small building that has retained its +piscina and two niches for holding figures. The almshouse was fortified +by Fairfax during the Civil War, and for many years the chapel was in a +ruinous condition, but it was restored early in the nineteenth century. +St. Anne's Day, 26 July, has been observed regularly by the inmates of +the charity since its foundation. + +Retracing our steps to the beginning of High Street, and proceeding up +Castle Street, we reach the highest point of the city, the Red Mount, +crowned by the gateway and ruined towers of an ancient castle. The +fortress formed a part of the fortifications erected by Athelstan, and +the Red Tower, with its triangular-headed window, may be confidently +assigned to the Saxon era. During the Norman period the castle was +rebuilt by Brian de Molis. In Stephen's reign it was besieged and taken +from Earl Baldwin de Redvers, who was banished until the following +reign, when his possessions were restored. The castle belonged to the de +Redvers and Courtenay families until 1231, when Henry III presented it +to his brother Richard as part of the earldom of Cornwall. In 1537 Henry +VIII granted Exeter a charter giving the city the privilege of being a +county with its own sheriffs, excepting Rougemont Castle, which still +belongs to the Duchy of Cornwall. + +[Illustration: ROUGEMONT CASTLE] + +In 1774 a large portion of the castle ruins were cleared away, when +several interesting buildings were destroyed, among them the Chapel of +the Blessed Virgin, to make room for the present Assize Court, a plain +building with no pretensions to architectural beauty. On the right of +the castle yard is a little path leading to the top of the walls, whence +a comprehensive view of the city and the neighbourhood can be obtained. +Looking straight across the valley, beyond the county jail, one can see +the site of the ancient camp of the Danes, against whom Athelstan +built his fortifications, now occupied by the reservoir. At the foot of +the wall are the Northernhay Gardens, a favourite resort with youthful +Exonians. From Northernhay the old walls can easily be traced westwards, +and crossing Queen Street we may proceed down the narrow Maddocks Row to +find the wall pierced by the only archway now remaining. Continuing +westwards we cross North Street, where the old North Gate stood until it +was demolished in 1769. Entering Bartholomew Street East we are on the +ramparts again, and from the bastion near All-Hallows-on-the-Walls +Church we may look down upon the old Bartholomew burying-ground, +consecrated in 1639, and used as the principal city cemetery for nearly +two hundred years. The Church of All-Hallows-on-the-Walls is a modern +one that stands on the site of a more ancient edifice. From this point +one can see the tapering spire of St. Michael's Church, in the grounds +of Mount Dinham, where are the almshouses erected and endowed in 1860 by +John Dinham. Here are forty free cottages and episcopal charity schools, +the latter founded originally in 1709 by Bishop Offspring Blackall. + +Continuing along the bastion the limit of the northern wall is soon +reached. Many of the old streets in this quarter of the city are worth +visiting, for in the narrow thoroughfares are some interesting old +houses. In St. Mary Arches Street is the church of the same name, shut +in by houses. It is one of the old parish churches of Exeter, and one +that takes part of its name from the fine Norman pillars and arcade of +the nave, which is the oldest in the city. In the south aisle is a +chantry containing the altar tomb of Thomas Andrews, mayor in 1505 and +1510; and who died in 1518. Mint Street, as its name implies, was +associated with the mint established there by permission of William III. +The coinage minted there may be recognized by the letter E placed +beneath the king's head. Bartholomew Street brings us to Fore Street, a +narrow and very steep thoroughfare, within which is the fine front of +the Tuckers' Hall, belonging to the Incorporated Guilds of Weavers, +Fullers, and Shearmen, chartered in 1490. Close at hand are steps +leading down to Exe Island, which was for many years a subject of +dispute between the Earls of Devon and the citizens; but on the +attainder of Henry, Marquis of Exeter, in 1558, the property reverted to +the Crown. On the conclusion of the Prayer-Book Riots the island was +granted to the city by Edward VI, as a reward for the services it had +rendered the authorities. Most of the old portions of the island have +been destroyed, many of them in recent years, but an interesting +specimen of a Tudor house remains with a covering of slates somewhat +resembling scale armour. Shields appear in the ornamentation, one of +them bearing the Tudor rose. At one time this style of wall covering was +very common in Exeter, but the example in Exe Island is the only one now +remaining. + +On the south side of Fore Street stands St Olave's Church, where, +according to Domesday, a church with the same dedication existed before +the Conquest. It is said traditionally to have been built by Gytha, +Harold's mother, in order that masses might be said for the souls of her +son and Earl Godwin. William I gave the church to the monks of Battle +Abbey, in whose possession it remained until the Reformation. More than +a century later St. Olave's was lent to the French Huguenot refugees, +many of whom settled in Exeter where they established an important +woollen industry. The present church bears few indications of antiquity, +beyond some Norman arches and a little early carving in the tower. + +At the lower end of Fore Street is West Street, marking the western +limit of the old walls. A right-hand turn leads to St. Edmund's Church, +built in the thirteenth century at one end of the old bridge, when it +was known as _St. Edmund Super pontem_. In 1831 the original structure +was pulled down and the present building begun. It is said to stand +upon some of the arches of the ancient bridge. Turning eastwards we +reach the foot of Stepcote Hill, and the church of St. Mary Steps. A +remarkable exterior feature is the old clock and figures, known locally +as "Matthew the Miller". The dial is enriched with basso-rilievos +representing the four seasons, and in a niche just above is a small +effigy of Henry VIII in a sitting posture, who nods his head as each +hour is struck. On each side is a military figure, their morions crowned +with feathers, javelins held in their right hands, and small hammers in +their left hands, with which they alternately strike the quarter hours +on two small bells at their feet. The name of "Matthew the Miller" is +said to have originated from the punctuality of a miller of that name +who was so regular in going to and from his mill that people set their +clocks by him. The church contains a fine chancel screen, with +twenty-eight panels of painted saints, which was removed from the church +of St. Mary Major. The font is a good one, of Norman date. Just opposite +St. Mary Steps stood the West Gate of the city, which was taken down in +1814. + +The Westgate quarter formed part of the manor of Exe Island, and was +inhabited chiefly by weavers, fullers, dyers, and those whose +occupations required a copious supply of water. The whole of this +district is intersected with narrow lanes and passages, beneath and +around which are many streams diverted from the river to work the mills. + +A few old gabled houses with overhanging upper stories still remain in +this district, but they are in a very dilapidated condition, as will be +noticed by anyone who traverses one of the numerous byways that lead to +South Street, at the lower end of which is Magdalen Street, where are +two very interesting hospitals--"Wynard's" and the "Magdalen". The +former was founded in 1430 by William Wynard, sometime Recorder of the +city, for the habitation of a priest and twelve poor men. The attached +chapel was dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and the hospital was called +"God's House". The founder left many lands and tenements to provide +funds for the establishment. The master might not be absent more than +once or twice in the year, and his total holidays in the twelve months +were never to exceed three weeks and three days. He was also required to +teach from three to nine boys, starting them with the alphabet, and +going on to the "great psalter of the holy David". The foundation passed +eventually into the possession of William Kennaway, who built a vault +within which he was buried. + +The hospital to-day is one of the secular buildings of Exeter most worth +visiting, with its gabled houses, dormer windows, and garden plots. An +archway leads into the courtyard, around which on three sides are +grouped the houses of the twelve pensioners; the chapel occupies the +fourth side of the quadrangle. + +The Magdalen, or Leper, Hospital, just without the South Gate, was +founded sometime before 1135, for in 1136 we find that Bishop +Bartholomew permitted a continuance of the ancient right by which the +lepers were allowed to collect food twice a week in the market, and alms +on two other days, to all of which the healthy members of the community +naturally objected. In 1244 Bishop Bruere resigned the guardianship of +the leper hospital to the corporation, and was given in its stead the +mastership of the hospital of St. John. One of the mayors of Exeter, +Richard Orange, was a great patron of the lazar house, and when he +himself contracted leprosy he took up his abode in the hospital, where +he died and was buried in the chapel. Even so late as the sixteenth +century there would appear to have been lepers in Exeter, for we find +that in 1580 no one was to be admitted to the Magdalen Hospital except +"sick persons in the disease of the leprosy". + +[Illustration: ST. MARY STEPS] + +In South Street is College Hall, or the Hall of the College of +Priest-Vicars or Vicars Choral, a fine oak-panelled apartment. The +original hall was built by Bishop Brantyngham about 1388, and access was +then gained to it from the Close; the houses of the priest-vicars +being arranged on each side of a green. All this has now disappeared +with the exception of the hall, which was rebuilt in the fifteenth +century. At one end is a gallery upon the upper panels of which are +paintings representing former bishops of the diocese, beginning with +Leofric. On the carved mantelpiece is the date, 1629, and the owls which +constitute the punning, or allusive, arms of Bishop Oldham. Near the +hall a road leads into the Close, passing the church of St. Mary Major, +a modern building replacing a beautiful old one which appears to have +been needlessly destroyed. On the eastern side of the Close is a +picturesque Elizabethan building known as Mol's Coffee House. At the +time of the Armada it was a private residence. In 1596 the original +house was pulled down and the present building erected. On the +introduction of coffee into England it was opened as a Club and Coffee +House by an Italian named Mol. As such it was a well-known and popular +resort with the citizens of Exeter and the squires of the neighbourhood +until 1829. It is now used as a shop by a firm of fine-art dealers, but +the fine "Armada" room upstairs is willingly shown to all visitors who +express a wish to see it. It is a good panelled room with low windows, +and an elaborate frieze of shields bearing the arms of many ancient +Devonshire families, among them being those of Sir Francis Drake, Sir +Walter Raleigh, and General Monk. Adjoining Mol's Coffee House is the +very small Church of St. Martin, now but rarely used for divine service. +On the Catherine Street side of the church is a building, formerly an +almshouse, which has an attached chapel of much interest dedicated to +St. Catherine. The chapel is conjectured to have been built by the +Annuellor monks, whose college originally stood on the site of Mol's +Coffee House, where traces of it may still be seen in the cellars. The +narrow passage of St. Martin's Lane, known to the present-day citizens +as "Luxury Lane", on account of its shops, leads direct from the busy +High Street to the Cathedral Close. + + +THE CATHEDRAL + +The present cathedral church of the diocese of Exeter may be said to be +the third building that has stood on the site. Nothing remains of the +Saxon church elevated to the dignity of a cathedral when the bishopric +was removed from Crediton, and of the Norman church erected by +Warelwast, a nephew of the Conqueror, only the two massive towers are +standing, the remainder of the building belonging almost entirely to +the late Decorated style, of which it is one of the most beautiful +examples we possess. + +The city of Exeter does not appear to have been divided into parishes +until the year 1222, in pursuance then no doubt of Archbishop Langton's +Constitution of the same year. The Cathedral itself was first +constituted a parish by being placed under the charge of a single +dignitary, the dean, by Bishop Briwere, in 1225. + +Four years after he ascended the throne in 1042, Edward the Confessor +gave the united bishopric of Crediton and Cornwall to his chaplain, +Leofric, who, observing that Crediton was an open town, difficult to +fortify against the Danish raiders, obtained from Pope Leo IX permission +to remove the episcopal see to Exeter, when the Benedictine minster of +St. Mary and St. Peter became the cathedral church of the diocese. + +Although no part of this church remains, an ancient seal of the +Cathedral is of special interest as showing some of the architectural +features of the Saxon church. It depicts the west front with two towers, +the northern square and the southern circular, the latter surmounted by +a cross, and pierced by three round openings in the walls. There are two +porches, one in the centre the other in the north tower, and the walls +show indications of characteristic Saxon masonry. On the central roof +is a large fleche or turret of two stages carrying a weathercock on a +very tall shaft. + +Of the succeeding church the only contemporary pictorial representations +we have are those on early, and somewhat imperfect, seals dating from +the end of the eleventh century. The first has a church with cresting of +fleurs-de-lis on a hipped and tiled roof, two gable crosses, flanking +pinnacles, an arcaded clerestory, and a double door with ornamental +hinges, on each side of which is a quatrefoil opening. The second seal +shows an arcaded building standing on a stone plinth of four courses, +and flanked by towers with conical roofs and ball finials. The roof is +surmounted by a large fleur-de-lis, and exhibits an unusual form of +tiling. A third seal (1194-1206) shows the west front of the Cathedral +with two western towers and a central porch, and a large roof turret. +Another view of the west front occurs on the seal of the Archdeacon's +official, 1267, and in this example there are three pointed towers, the +central one carrying a cross, the others being capped with flag vanes. +In the doorway stands a figure of the official. The two Norman +transeptal towers still standing give the Cathedral a unique appearance, +this arrangement being found nowhere else in England, save at the highly +interesting and not far distant Collegiate Church of Ottery St. Mary. + +Having thus briefly sketched from pictorial evidence the architectural +characteristics of the predecessors of the present Cathedral, we may +begin our tour of the building. Exeter is known as a Cathedral of the +Old Foundation, as in pre-Reformation days it was served by secular +canons, and as such it was not refounded by Henry VIII; so that there +has been no break in the continuity of its ecclesiastical history since +its original institution in the days of Leofric. With the exception of +Carlisle, which was served before the Reformation by Augustinian or +Austin canons, all the cathedrals of the Old Foundation were served by +secular canons. It must be remembered that although nearly the whole of +the architectural merit of the Cathedral lies in the interior, and +particularly in the magnificent stone vaulting of the roof, which is the +high-water mark of vaulting on a large scale in England, there are +several portions of the exterior that are worth noting. Externally the +great defect of the building is the low elevation of the body, and the +want of a central tower to counteract the heavy effect produced by solid +square towers at each transept. + +The west front, with its low, embattled screen of figures, is not a very +happy architectural composition, and is not to be compared to the west +fronts of Lincoln and Peterborough, where the figure sculpture is +earlier and better executed than at Exeter. The one redeeming feature +of an otherwise unimposing west front, is the Decorated tracery of the +great window, now filled with modern, and not very satisfactory, glass +in memory of Archbishop Temple, who was Bishop of Exeter from 1869 to +1885. + +The elevation of this front consists of three stories: the basement +screen, containing three portals; above this is the west wall of the +nave; and above this again is the nave gable, in which is inserted a +smaller window of the same character as the larger one. The apex of the +gable has a canopied niche, within which is a much-restored effigy of +St. Peter. The sloping walls built on each side, as if purposely to +conceal the buttresses of the nave and its aisles, give this portion of +the church an awkward perspective, and tend to diminish the apparent +height of the whole facade. The screen itself was the last important +addition to be made to the fabric by Bishop Brantyngham (1370-94), and +it is little more than a low stone scaffolding for holding the rows of +figures of saints, kings, and other distinguished persons which fill the +niches. An attempt to identify these sixty-five individuals, with the +aid of early drawings and still earlier documents, may be said to have +established the identities of the majority of the effigies, although +they have suffered so much from rough treatment, restoration, and +weathering that many of the saintly emblems and regal attributes are +difficult to decipher at the present time. Two of the figures, which +were broken with falling, were replaced by new and very indifferent +figures by Mr. E. B. Stevens. + + +[Illustration: THE CATHEDRAL FROM THE PALACE GROUNDS] + +Some years ago it was found that the whole of this embattled screen was +merely a stone veil erected for the purpose of protecting the original +west front. One or two stones were removed, a little to the right of the +north door of the west entrance, and the inner mouldings exposed. Within +the thickness of the wall is a little chapel dedicated to St. Radegund, +in which Bishop Grandisson prepared his tomb. + +The north side of the Cathedral can be viewed in its entirety from any +part of the well-kept lawns, beneath which lie the bones of the citizens +of seven centuries, but no stones mark their resting places. The most +noticeable feature on this north side is the sturdy Norman tower, +corresponding to its fellow on the south side, the original purposes of +which are still a matter of much discussion among antiquaries. Built by +Bishop Warelwast in the twelfth century, they stood as two distinct and +independent towers, until Bishop Quivil, during the rebuilding of the +Cathedral in 1280-91, ingeniously opened up the inside walls, supporting +the remaining portions of the walls upon arches, thus forming the +interiors of the towers into transepts. The exterior of the northern +tower is plain walling for part of its height, when it is divided into +four stages by horizontal bands, each stage containing elaborate Norman +arcading, ornamented with zigzag moulding. It is surmounted with an +embattled parapet with a turret at each angle. In the north wall a fine +Decorated window was inserted by Quivil for the purpose of lighting his +newly made transepts. To make way for this window a portion of the +arcading of the first stage was cut away. The towers are similar to each +other, and they were formerly capped with spires. In 1752 the spire on +the north tower was taken down, that on the south tower having been +removed at a much earlier date. Just below the window, on the face of +the north tower, are the masonry marks of the gable of a house. This was +the old Treasurer's House, wherein Henry VII was lodged when he came to +Exeter to put down Perkin Warbeck's rebellion. + +Near the north tower is the projecting north porch with its embattled +parapet. On the eastern side of the interior are the fragments of what +was once a Calvary, and on the central boss of the roof is a +representation of the Agnus Dei. + +An apartment above is known as the "Dog Whipper's" room, a relic of +those days when an official was appointed whose duty it was to keep +stray dogs out of the sacred building. + +On the exterior of the clerestory wall immediately above the porch is a +projection which marks the Minstrels' Gallery, and is lighted by a +window. Along the whole length of the Cathedral, from the west end of +the nave to the east end of the choir, are the flying buttresses that +counteract the thrust of the heavy roof vaulting of the interior. + +At the extreme eastern end of the Cathedral the Lady Chapel and its +sister chantries can be seen to great advantage with their windows +filled with tracery. The great Perpendicular east window is partially +hidden by the more easterly portions of the fabric, but it contains some +fine old glass, on which are full-length representations of nineteen +saints and patriarchs, and many armorial bearings. The full beauty of +the glass can only be seen from the interior. The south side of the +Cathedral is very similar to the northern one, except that the portion +east of the tower is hidden from view by the episcopal palace. + +Once inside the nave, which should be entered by the western portal, the +dullest eye cannot fail to perceive the uniform character of the work, a +quality which gives to this Cathedral a congruity of structural forms +and an architectonic value that is lacking in buildings which exhibit +the styles of various periods. Here we see the complete architectural +expression of one master mind, although the edifice was erected under +the supervision of successive bishops. The present Cathedral was begun +by Bishop Bronescombe (1258-80), to whom is due a portion of the Lady +Chapel. His successor, Quivil (1280-91), furnished designs for the +entire rebuilding of the church, and how faithfully his successors +adhered to these plans is proved by the fact that a great deal of this +Decorated building was erected at a time when the Perpendicular style +was in full swing all over the country. With the exception of the great +east window, which is of the Perpendicular period, the whole of the +interior is of the purest Decorated work, and is the finest, as it is +the most complete, example of this style on a large scale in the +country. Exception has been taken to the lack of height in the nave, due +to the low spring of the vaulting, and there is some justification for +the criticism. The vaulting, however, is exceedingly beautiful, and the +long line of unbroken roof stretching from the west end of the nave to +the east end of the choir is so charming a feature that when inside the +building we no longer regret the absence of a central tower. + +[Illustration: THE SANCTUARY, EXETER CATHEDRAL] + +The bosses that unite the vaulting ribs represent a variety of subjects, +the last but one, near the west window, depicting the martyrdom of +Becket. The corbels from which the vaulting shafts spring are mostly +sculptured heads of the Plantagenets; those on each side of the +Minstrels' Gallery depict Edward III and Queen Philippa. This gallery +cuts into the triforium on its north side, and contains niches in which +are sculptured angels with musical instruments. Until the middle of the +last century it was customary for the surpliced choir to sing the Gloria +in Excelsis from the gallery on Christmas Eve. + +The Gothic arches of the nave, large and beautiful, rest upon massive +clustered piers of Purbeck marble. The development of these piers as the +building progressed westwards is clearly seen. Between the Lady Chapel +and the choir is a pier of four shafts, then one of eight, which +eventually develops into one of sixteen shafts, repeated throughout the +length of the nave. Although the tracery of the aisle windows is very +varied in design, each window on the north side has its counterpart on +the south side, and some of the tracery of these windows has a marked +tendency to the flamboyant, thus showing the lateness of much of the +work at Exeter, for what is called the flamboyant style is contemporary +in France with our Perpendicular work, which is a purely English style +unknown on the Continent. + +The choir screen was put up by Bishop Stapledon (1465), but its height +and effectiveness are sadly marred by the great organ placed upon it. +Until comparatively recent years an altar stood on each side of this +screen. The great west window of the nave, the beautiful tracery of +which has already been alluded to, was due to Bishop Grandisson +(1327-69). The font at the western end of the south nave aisle was made +specially for the baptism of Princess Henrietta, while the nave pulpit, +erected in 1877, to the memory of Bishop Patteson of Melanesia, "is", +says the Rev. Baring-Gould, "much of a piece with the stuff turned out +by clerical tailors and church decorators who furnish us with vulgar +designs in illustrated catalogues". + +The transepts, as we have seen, were bored by Quivil through the two +Norman towers built by Warelwast, and in consequence are of small +dimensions. In the north tower is the great bell called "Peter", which +was brought from Llandaff by Bishop Courtenay towards the end of the +fifteenth century, and which weighs 12,500 lb., the only heavier bell in +this country being great "Tom of Oxford", the weight of which is 17,000 +lb. "Peter" was rung formerly by the united exertions of twenty-four men +using two ropes and double wheels, but it was cracked on 5 November, +1611, from a "too violent ringing in commemoration of the Gunpowder +Plot". + +In 1752 the bell was placed in the lower part of the tower, and so fixed +in a massive framework of timber that it cannot now be rung; it is, +however, used as a clock bell, and the sound of its deep notes can be +heard at a great distance. The old clock in the same transept has been +regarded as the gift of Bishop Courtenay, but this is doubtful, as from +entries in the fabric rolls it seems that the clock was constructed more +than a century before that prelate presided over the see. If so, the +clock would date from about 1317. This ancient clock is very remarkable, +being constructed upon the idea that the earth and not the sun was the +centre of the solar system. It shows the hour of the day and the age of +the moon. The dial is about seven feet in diameter, and on it are two +circles, one numbered from 1 to 30 for the age of the moon, the other +numbered from 1 to 12 twice over, for the hours. In the centre of the +dial a semi-globe is fixed representing the earth, around which a +smaller globe indicating the moon revolves monthly, and by turning on +its axis as it revolves, shows the various lunar phases. Between the two +circles is a third globe representing the sun, with an attached +fleur-de-lis which points to the hours as the ball revolves around the +earth. In 1760, more works were added--to show the minutes, which are +painted in a circle. The works of the clocks have been renewed many +times, and are now placed in the disused chantry of Sub-Chanter Sylke, +situated in the northeast corner of the transept, just below the ancient +clock. + +On the eastern side of this transept is St. Paul's Chapel, now used as a +vestry. + +The south transept, that corresponds with the northern one, is formed +from the lower part of the south tower, which contains a fine set of +bells, although only ten of them are now rung. There are some +interesting monuments in this transept. Here are the great Courtenay +tomb, originally occupying a place in the nave; the Elizabethan tomb of +Sir John Gilbert, brother of Sir Humphrey Gilbert and half-brother to +Sir Walter Ralegh; and the monument to Sir Peter Carew. A niche in the +wall holds a few fragments of sculptured stone saved from the tomb of +Leofric, first Bishop of Exeter, who was buried in "the crypt of his own +church". A marble slab against the south wall is believed to be the +resting place of "Bishop John the Chanter" (1186-91). A small door in +this transept leads to the Chapel of the Holy Ghost and to the Chapter +House. + +[Illustration: OLD COURTYARD IN THE CLOSE] + +On the roof of the south choir aisle are bosses carved with +representations of the heads of Edward I and Queen Eleanor. This aisle +contains many interesting effigies, among them two of those of unknown +knights, considered to commemorate Sir Humphrey de Bohun and Sir Henry +de Ralegh. The body of the latter knight was the cause of a contention, +between the Dean and Chapter of the Cathedral and the Dominican +Friars, in the year 1301. The quarrel was a bitter one, and lasted for +five years. The Dean and the Chapter affirmed that from time immemorial, +and by special arrangement with the friars, they had the right to have +all bodies which were intended to be buried in the Dominican church, +with the exception of those which belonged to the convent, brought to +the Cathedral with the usual wax and offerings for the first mass. The +friars refused to allow Sir Henry Ralegh's body to be taken to the +Cathedral, and they claimed the wax and offerings. After a lengthy +dispute the executors and friends of the knight took his body to the +Cathedral, where the usual mass was celebrated, after which the body, +with the bier and pall belonging to the friars, was carried back to the +convent doors. The friars now refused to readmit the body, upon which +the executors took it again to the Cathedral, "and after keeping it for +a day and a night, and the friars still refusing to receive it, they +carried it to be buried in the Cathedral, as it could not be left longer +unburied owing to the stench (_fetare_)". + +On the south side of the aisle is the Chapel of St. James, which was +built by Bishop Marshall and restored by Quivil in the early Decorated +style. The vaulting and the windows are similar to those of the choir +aisles. Over it was formerly the muniment room, but in 1870 the +archives were removed to the Chapter House for greater safety. During +some excavations a crypt was found beneath the chapel with a finely +groined roof. The crypt now contains the machinery used for blowing the +organ. The next chapel on the south side is the chantry of Bishop +Oldham, or St. Saviour's Chapel, richly decorated with carvings, among +which the "owl" of the bishop, forming part of the rebus of his name, is +prominent. His armorial bearings are also charged with the three owls. +The effigy of the prelate rests beneath an ogee arch, and is lavishly +coloured, although the original work has been restored by Corpus Christi +College, Oxford, in memory of Bishop Oldham, who contributed 6000 marks +to the collegiate foundation. On the south side of the Lady Chapel is +St. Gabriel's Chapel, built by Bishop Bronescombe in honour of his +patron saint. Here lies the effigy of the bishop in a carved and richly +gilded tomb. + +The Chapel of St. Mary Magdalene, originally built by Bronescombe, was +altered by Quivil. It has a Perpendicular screen and some +fifteenth-century glass in the east window. Close by, on the north side +of the north choir aisle, is Sir John Speke's Chantry, or St. George's +Chapel, of Perpendicular work and containing the effigy of the knight. +When the Cathedral was divided into two parts, in Puritan days, a +doorway was made where the altar now stands, leading into "East +Peter's". On the north side of the choir aisle is St. Andrew's Chapel, +corresponding with that of St. James on the south. By the north wall is +the large sixteenth-century monument of Sir Gawain Carew, his wife, and +his nephew, Sir Peter Carew (1571). The effigy of the last-named is +cross-legged, and so late an example of this disposition of the lower +limbs supports the now generally accepted archaeological fact that the +cross-legged attitude had no particular reference to the romantic wars +of the Crusades. + +Other interesting monuments in this aisle are the cross-legged effigy of +Sir Richard de Stapledon, half-brother to the bishop, and that of Bishop +Stapledon. The latter, although in the choir, is seen to better +advantage from below. A story runs to the effect that while Sir Richard +was riding one day in London with his brother, a cripple laid hold of +his horse by one of the fore legs, throwing both horse and rider to the +ground, and causing the knight's death, hence the name "Cripplegate". +Bishop Stapledon was Treasurer to Edward II, and held London against +Queen Isabella. The bishop was taken prisoner, and condemned to death at +a mock trial. He was beheaded at Cheapside, and his body cast on a +rubbish heap, whence it was eventually taken to Exeter and accorded an +honourable burial. + +No examples of miserere carvings are known in English churches before +the thirteenth century, and the set at Exeter are probably the earliest +we have, the character of their foliage denoting the Early English +period. They are thought to have been the gift of Bishop Bruere +(1224-44). The complete set numbers forty-nine, and among the subjects +represented are a merman and a mermaid, an elephant, and a knight +slaying a leopard. + +The choir stalls, carved to illustrate the _Benedicite_, the pulpit, and +the reredos are all modern, having been erected from designs by Sir +Gilbert Scott. The lofty tapering bishop's throne, an essential feature +of every cathedral church, is the most remarkable of the choir fittings. +It has been ascertained from the fabric rolls that it was the gift of +Bishop Stapledon (1465), and the exact sum paid for the work and timber +was just under thirteen pounds, a considerable sum of money when its +modern equivalent is calculated. The throne consists of a series of +pinnacles and niches, rising in diminishing tiers until the crowning +pinnacle almost reaches to the clerestory window. There is not a single +nail in the whole of this canopied seat, although it rises to a height +of more than sixty feet from the choir floor. It has been taken to +pieces on at least two occasions; once by the son of Bishop Hall, when +it was hidden away during the Civil Wars to save it from Cromwell's +troopers, and a second time by Sir Gilbert Scott, for the purposes of +cleaning. It is highly probable that the oak of which it is made came +from Chudleigh, some ten miles away, where the bishops of Exeter had a +palace, of which fragments remain in Palace Farm. + +[Illustration: THE ABBOT'S LODGE] + +The beautiful stone sedilia was due to Stapledon. Above the seat are +three arches 10 feet in height, surmounted by elaborately designed +tabernacle work. The arches spring from three carved heads reputed to be +those of St. Edward the Confessor, Leofric, and Edith. + +The Lady Chapel is at the eastern end of the choir, from which it is +separated by a broad ambulatory, and within it are the tombs of Bishops +Stafford, Bronescombe, Simon of Apulia, and Bartholomew, as well as the +tomb of Sir John Doddridge. A plain slab marks the resting place of +Bishop Quivil, the stone bearing an incised cross and around it the +inscription-- + + "PETRA TEGIT PETRUM + NIHIL OFFICIAT SIBI TETRUM". + +The large number of interments in Lady Chapels was due to the perfectly +natural desire of our forefathers to be laid to rest in the chapel +dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. + +The cloisters stood formerly on the south side, in front of the Chapter +House. They were so sadly mutilated by the Cromwellian troopers that +houses were erected and a weekly market held on the site. In 1887 a +portion of the ruinous cloister was restored, so that a new cathedral +library could be placed above it for the purpose of housing the valuable +libraries bequeathed to the Cathedral, no more space being available in +the Chapter House. An interesting manuscript, preserved in the library +of the Devon and Exeter Institution, contains many references to the +city which have not been recorded by other historians. With reference to +the cloisters the unknown author of this manuscript says: + + "1657. The Cloysters neer to Peters churche was converted into the + serdge markett, which was before in Southgate street. + + "1660. The wall which divided East & West Peters was taken downe in + December and in the month following the serdg markett was removed + out of the Cloystures, and carried againe into Southgate street + whear it was before. Also the uniting of severall parishes into one + was againe made void & each parrish to enjoy her owne priviledges + and lyberties as before." + +When Daniel Defoe visited Exeter, in 1723, it had the largest serge +market in England, next to Leeds. + +Although the Close has not succeeded in retaining any of its gates it is +interesting by reason of the few old houses that still surround it, +whilst behind their gabled roofs rises the double-towered Cathedral, +completing the picturesqueness of a really charming scene, of which the +prevailing tone is a dark grey, stained and almost blackened by +weathering and by age. In the fourteenth century the Close at Exeter was +enclosed with walls, and until comparatively recent times it was built +over. The well-kept Close is peculiar to England. + +The Bishop's Palace dates from about 1381, and is supposed to have been +either built or enlarged by Bishop Courtenay. It was in a very ruinous +condition when Bishop Philpotts set to work to restore it, when many old +fragments of masonry were let into the new work. The fine archway +leading into the cloisters was put up at this time, and the large oriel +window of the library came from another old house in Exeter. Within the +hall of the Palace is an ancient chimney-piece erected about 1486, upon +which are sculptured the Courtenay arms and badges, the arms of England, +and the emblem of St. Anthony. During the Commonwealth the Palace came +into the possession of a sugar baker, and the succeeding bishop was +content to leave him undisturbed. The next occupant of the see, however, +turned the sugar baker out of the house, which he occupied himself. +Several traces of the sugar refinery were discovered when the Palace was +restored by Bishop Philpotts. The Palace Gardens are very extensive, +and are bounded on the south side by the remains of the city wall, upon +which is now a pleasant walk. Near the centre of the wall is a curious +building generally known as the Lollards' Prison, although whether it +ever was used for this purpose is a matter of conjecture. One of the +finest views of the Cathedral is that obtained from a corner of the lawn +in the Palace Gardens. + + +THE EXE + +After leaving the peaceful atmosphere of the Cathedral the noise and +distractions of the modern city grate upon us; the return to the +twentieth-century commonplace after the fourteenth-century refinement is +too sudden, there being no intermediate stage between the one and the +other, between the gloom of the great church and the glare and feverish +hurry of a prosperous city. This being so, we cannot do better than seek +a measure of quietude and repose along the banks of the Exe, a river +which, rising on Exmoor, gives name to Exeter, Exminster, and Exmouth. +Although rising in Somerset, the river may fittingly be claimed as a +Devonian one, as it enters the county a little below Dulverton, where +it receives the waters of the Barle. At the beginning of its career the +Exe flows through a country of great beauty and much romantic interest, +which has been immortalized by R. D. Blackmore in _Lorna Doone_. + +[Illustration: THE EXE AT TOPSHAM] + +This land of Exmoor is a heathery plateau that rivals in everything but +extent the sister moorland which gives birth to that prince of English +rivers, the Dart. + +Dartmoor is larger, wilder, and grander in the bold contours of its +cloud-capped tors, but the wildness of Exmoor is blended with a sweet +and gentle charm which is all its own. It presents us with a panorama of +misty woods, gleaming water, and glowing heather; a combe-furrowed +moorland clothed with scrub oaks and feathery larches. After leaving +this forest shrine the Exe enters Devonshire, where, after flowing +through richly wooded and fertile valleys, it sweeps past the ancient +town of Tiverton, where it is swelled by the waters of the Loman. Three +miles from Tiverton it reaches Bickley Bridge, beyond which it is the +recipient of the Culm, the largest of all its tributaries. Along the +greater part of its course to this point its silver streams thread their +way between sloping hills crowned with hanging woods, and by scenery of +the true Devonian order. At Cowley Bridge, two miles above Exeter, the +river is joined by the Creedy, which, coming from the north-west, flows +through and gives name to _Creedy-ton_, or Crediton. The course of the +Exe, from its source on Exmoor to the sea at Exmouth, is estimated at +about seventy miles. It is a pure pellucid stream until joined by the +Creedy, which imparts to it a reddish colour from the soil through which +the latter flows. + +The importance of the river to Exeter, especially before the waterway +was obstructed by Isabella de Fortibus, Countess of Devon, cannot be +overestimated, and in old books many of the now flourishing ports on the +south coast are described as "creeks under Exeter". From ancient records +it seems certain that an arm of the sea extended to the very walls of +the city, and from the facility thus afforded to commerce, Exeter, at a +very early period, became the great trading port of the West Country. Of +the various trades carried on here those of the woollen and its allied +industries were the most numerous. It was also one of those favoured +English ports to which licences were granted in 1428 for the embarkation +of devout persons and pilgrims who were visiting the great Continental +shrines, and particularly that of St. James at Compostella. Before they +were permitted to leave this country these mediaeval devotees were +required to swear a solemn oath that they would "not take with them +anything prejudicial to England, nor to reveal any of its secrets, nor +carry out with them any more gold or silver than what would be +sufficient for their reasonable expense". + +As civilization increased trade and commerce, both foreign and domestic, +kept pace with the growth of the city, and in the reign of Elizabeth the +wool merchants of the county and the woolstaplers of its capital had +risen to fame and opulence. In the year 1560 Queen Elizabeth granted the +traders of Exeter a charter of privileges, and letters patent were +issued forming them into a company under the name of a "Socitie of +Marchante Adventurers of the citie of Exeter". The possession of the +charter induced the citizens to commence the spirited undertaking of +cutting a canal to Topsham, a work that was begun in 1564, and which +constitutes one of the earliest examples of canal navigation in the +country. "But why", it may be asked, "did the need for cutting a canal +arise when the river flowed up to the heart of the city?" The need arose +in consequence of the obstruction of the natural waterway near Topsham, +by Isabella de Fortibus, Countess of Devon, with the result that no +ships could proceed beyond Countess Weir, at Topsham, 4 miles below +Exeter. The first obstruction was placed in the river by Isabella de +Fortibus, about the year 1284, owing to a dispute she had with the +merchants of the city concerning various dues. The merchants appealed to +Henry III, who ordered the obstruction to be removed, but so powerful +were the Earls of Devon in those days that no steps were taken to +restore the navigation of the waterway. In 1312 the river was still +further obstructed by Hugh Courtenay, Earl of Devon, the first member of +the Courtenay family to hold the earldom. Tradition states that the +motive for the earl's action was the displeasure he felt towards the +mayor and citizens of Exeter on the following occasion. His steward was +sent into the city to buy fish, and the bishop's steward having been +sent for the same purpose, the two servants met in the market on a day +when there were only three kettles of fish for sale. Each of the +stewards wanted the whole of the supply, and after a quarrel the mayor +was sent for to decide the issue, which he did by giving each of the +stewards one basket and retaining the third for the use of the citizens. +The mayor was in the service of the earl, who, hearing of the decision, +visited the city and sent for the mayor. The latter summoned the +citizens to meet him at the Guildhall, where he explained to them the +cause of the earl's displeasure and requested them to accompany him. +According to Tyacke, the Exeter historian, "being come to the Earl's +house, the mayor was conducted to his lodging chamber and the door +closed on him; and finding that none of his speeches would satisfy the +Earl, who stormed at him, he took off an outer coat he then wore (it +being the Earl's livery), and delivered it to him again; at which the +Earl fell into a greater passion. The commons attending at the door, +doubting the mayor's safety, knocked, and demanded their mayor. Being +several times denied they attempted to break open the door, which the +Earl apprehending and fearful of what might ensue, entreated the mayor +to pacify the people, which was soon done, and they all peaceably +returned. And though the Earl then, to avoid the fury of the people, +seemed pacified, he could never afterwards show a good countenance to +the city." + +[Illustration: COUNTESS WEIR] + +In order to revenge himself on the citizens he built a quay at Topsham, +and compelled all merchants and captains of ships to unload their +cargoes and convey them by wagon to the city, to the inconvenience of +the merchants and his own profit. He also took from the citizens their +rights of fishing in the river, and oppressed them in various ways. Some +years later Edward Courtenay, nephew of Hugh, still further blocked the +waterway by erecting two other weirs, under the pretext of building some +mills. Many complaints were made to the king, and various writs were +issued against the earls, but no one dared to enforce them. For four +hundred years the feud continued over what was apparently the +destination of a kettle of fish, although in later days there is no +doubt that the earls' motives were to increase the income of their own +port of Topsham at the expense of Exeter. On the receipt of Queen +Elizabeth's charter in 1560 the citizens at length decided to construct +a canal to Topsham. This was begun in 1564 and completed in 1697, and it +is one of the earliest examples of canal navigation in the country. +Topsham is now a little port, whose shipping trade is confined to small +coasting schooners and fishing smacks. The Church of St. Margaret is +very large, and, with the exception of the tower, has been almost +entirely rebuilt. Near Topsham the Exe is joined by the little River +Clyst, and just below the confluence the Exe expands until it is more +than a mile in width. From the Clyst many villages take name, as Clyst +St. Lawrence, Broad Clyst, Honiton Clyst, Clyst St. Mary, and Clyst St. +George. The last two are near Topsham and were the scene of a struggle +during the Prayer Book Riots. In Devon the insurrection started on +Whit-Monday, 1549, at Sampford Courtenay, the day following that on +which the Act altering the Church service came into force. The people of +the village insisted on the priest saying the usual mass instead of the +prayers given in the appointed Book of Common Prayer. The rebellion +spread rapidly, and ten thousand men marched on Exeter, with a good +sprinkling of old Devon families in their ranks; but they were +undisciplined and were quickly dispersed by Lords Grey and Russell. +Although demoralized, the rebels assembled at Clyst St. Mary, which they +fortified. From here they sent word to the king demanding the +continuance of their former Church services, but the king's reply was an +army under the command of Lord Russell, and after a brief resistance +Clyst St. Mary was burned to the ground and the rebels scattered, to be +again beaten and their leaders taken on Clyst Heath. The vicar of St. +Thomas's Church, Exeter--at that time situated outside the walls--one of +the leaders, was hanged from his own church tower. + +On the west bank of the Exe, almost opposite Topsham, are Powderham Park +and Castle, the latter supposed to have been built originally by +Isabella de Fortibus. It has been conjectured, and is indeed highly +probable, that a fortified building or earthwork of some kind occupied +the site at a much earlier date, possibly as early as the Danish +invasions. In later times the manor belonged to the Bohuns, and it came +into possession of the Earls of Devon through the marriage of Margaret +de Bohun with Hugh Courtenay, the third earl. In 1645 the castle was +besieged, unsuccessfully, by Fairfax, but in the following year it was +taken by Colonel Hammond. Until about the middle of the eighteenth +century it remained strongly fortified, but at that time it was +subjected to many alterations. The oldest part of the present castle +dates from the time of Richard II, but the whole fabric has undergone so +many restorations that it presents a great variety of architectural +styles. The fine modern hall contains a fireplace which is a replica of +the one at the Palace, Exeter. The park is a delightful stretch of +greensward, studded with ancient oaks, and it extends for many miles +around the building. In one corner of the park is the little church of +St. Clement, a Perpendicular building of red sandstone, and within which +are several memorials of the Courtenays. These include a recumbent +effigy popularly supposed to represent the renowned Isabella, although +this lady is known to have been buried at Bromnor Priory, Wilts. It is +the opinion of some authorities that this monument is a cenotaph to +Elizabeth, daughter of Edward I, and wife of Humphrey de Bohun, whose +daughter, Margaret, married Hugh Courtenay. On the highest ground of the +park is the Belvidere, erected in 1773, a triangular tower with a small +hexagonal turret at each corner. It is 60 feet high, and from the summit +the view comprises the city of Exeter, the broad estuary of the Exe, +the village of Lympstone, and the little town of Topsham, where the +spars of the ships appear to mingle with the trees on the river's banks. +Looking inland we may see the well-wooded country stretching away in a +succession of hills and combes, until the view is bounded by the +stone-capped heights of Dartmoor in the far distance. + +The parish of Woodbury, on the east bank of the river, contains several +small villages and a large stretch of common. Woodbury Castle is a +well-known earthwork on the top of a high hill; it is probably +prehistoric in origin, although afterwards occupied by the Romans. The +church of St. Swithin at Woodbury has a chancel in the Decorated and a +tower in the Perpendicular styles. The beautiful screen has been +modernized and consequently spoiled, but some good monuments may still +be seen. Nutwell Court, overlooking the estuary, is a modern mansion on +the site of a castle which had been converted into a dwelling house so +early as the reign of Edward IV. It is now the home of the Drakes, of +the same family as the famous sailor of Elizabethan days. Among the +relics preserved here are the cups given to Sir Francis Drake by Queen +Elizabeth on his return from the memorable voyage round the world in the +_Pelican_. Here also is a portrait of Sir Francis by Zucchero. + +Exmouth, although a modern watering-place, has a few points of interest, +being one of the oldest seaside resorts on the south-west coast. + +In the time of King John it was an important port, and it supplied ten +ships and one hundred and ninety-three seamen for Edward III's +expedition to Calais. The principal part of the present town is very +modern, but it is very pleasantly situated. The greater part of the town +is included in the parish of Littleham, whose church, dedicated to St. +Margaret and St. Andrew, is of Early English and Perpendicular +architecture. The Spratshayes aisle was probably built by the Drakes of +Spratshayes. The screen, dating from about 1400, has richly undercut +cornice bands, the Stafford and Wake knots being freely introduced among +the carvings. There are many delightful walks around Exmouth, both along +the coast and inland, the view from Beacon Hill being very fine and +including a large strip of the eastern and the western coastlines that +border the blue waters of the English Channel. + + +PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN + +_At the Villafield Press, Glasgow, Scotland_ + + ++--------------------------------------------------------------------+ +|Transcribers note: | +| | +|In this plain text E and S with a macron is represented by [=S] [=E]| ++--------------------------------------------------------------------+ + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Exeter, by Sidney Heath + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXETER *** + +***** This file should be named 24635.txt or 24635.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/4/6/3/24635/ + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/Canadian +Libraries) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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