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diff --git a/24588.txt b/24588.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c430dee --- /dev/null +++ b/24588.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2746 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Natural History of Chocolate, by D. de +Quelus, Translated by R. Brookes + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: The Natural History of Chocolate + Being a Distinct and Particular Account of the Cocoa-Tree, its Growth and Culture, and the Preparation, Excellent Properties, and Medicinal Vertues of its Fruit + + +Author: D. de Quelus + + + +Release Date: February 12, 2008 [eBook #24588] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE NATURAL HISTORY OF CHOCOLATE*** + + +E-text prepared by Robert Cicconetti, Louise Pryor, and the Project +Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) + + + +Transcriber's note: + + Spelling is inconsistent and has been neither modernised nor + corrected. + + In the original, footnotes are marked with lower case letters, + numbers, or asterisks. In this transcription, the asterisks + have been replaced by the number of the page on which the + footnote appears. + + Contractions (such as atq; for atque) have not been expanded. + + + + +THE +Natural HISTORY +OF +CHOCOLATE: + +BEING + +A Distinct and Particular Account of the COCOA-TREE, its Growth and + Culture, and the Preparation, Excellent Properties, and Medicinal + Vertues of its Fruit. + +Wherein the Errors of those who have wrote upon this Subject are + discover'd; the Best Way of Making CHOCOLATE is explain'd; and + several Uncommon MEDICINES drawn from it, are communicated. + +_Translated from the last EDITION of the _French_, +_By_ R. BROOKES, M. D._ + + + + + + + +The SECOND EDITION. + +_LONDON:_ + +Printed for J. ROBERTS, near the _Oxford-Arms_ in _Warwick-Lane_. +M DCC.XXX. + + + + +PREFACE + + +If the Merit of a Natural History depends upon the Truth of the Facts +which are brought to support it, then an unprejudiced Eye-Witness is +more proper to write it, than any other Person; and I dare even flatter +myself, that this will not be disagreeable to the Publick +notwithstanding its Resemblance to the particular Treatises of +_Colmenero_[1], _Dufour_[2], and several others who have wrote upon the +same Subject. Upon examination, so great a Difference will appear, that +no one can justly accuse me of having borrow'd any thing from these +Writers. + +This small Treatise is nothing but the Substance and Result of the +Observations that I made in the _American Islands_, during the fifteen +Years which I was obliged to stay there, upon the account of his +Majesty's Service. The great Trade they drive there in _Chocolate_, +excited my Curiosity to examine more strictly than ordinary into its +Origin, Culture, Properties, and Uses. I was not a little surprized when +I every day discover'd, as to the Nature of the Plant, and the Customs +of the Country, a great Number of Facts contrary to the Ideas, and +Prejudices, for which the Writers on this Subject have given room. + +For this reason, I resolved to examine every thing myself, and to +represent nothing but as it really was in Nature, to advance nothing but +what I had experienced, and even to doubt of the Experiments themselves, +till I had repeated them with the utmost Exactness. Without these +Precautions, there can be no great Dependance on the greatest Part of +the Facts, which are produced by those who write upon any Historical +Matter from Memorandums; which, from the Nature of the Subject, they +cannot fully comprehend. + +As for my Reasonings upon the Nature, Vertues, and Uses of Chocolate, +perhaps they may be suspected by some People, because they relate to an +Art which I do not profess; but let that be as it will, the Facts upon +which they are founded are certain, and every one is at liberty to make +what other Inferences they like best. + +As there are several Names of Plants, and Terms of Art used in those +Countries, which I have been obliged to make use of, and which it was +necessary to explain somewhat at large, that they might be rightly +understood; rather than make frequent Digressions, and interrupt the +Discourse, I have thought fit to number these Terms, and to explain them +at the End of this Treatise: the Reader must therefore look forward for +those Remarks under their particular Numbers. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[1] De Chocolata Inda. + +[2] Du The, du Caffe, & du Chocolat. + + + + +THE TABLE. + + +The First PART. + + Chap. I. The Description of the _Cocao-Tree_. Pag. 2 + + Chap. II. Of the Choice and Disposition of the Place + to plant a Nursery. 10 + + Chap. III. Of the Method of Planting a Nursery, and of + its Cultivation, till the Fruit comes to Maturity. 16 + + Chap. IV. Of the gathering the _Cocao-Nuts_, and of the + Manner of making the Kernels sweat; and also of drying + them that they may be transported into _Europe_. 24 + + +The Second PART. + + Of the Properties of Chocolate. 38 + + Chap. I. Of the old Prejudices against Chocolate. 39 + + Chap. II. Of the real Properties of Chocolate. 44 + + Sect. I. Chocolate is very Temperate. 45 + + Sect. II. Chocolate is very nourishing, and of easy Digestion. 47 + + Sect. III. Chocolate speedily repairs the dissipated Spirits + and decayed Strength. 51 + + Sect. IV. Chocolate is very proper to preserve Health, and + to prolong the Life of old Men. 56 + + +The Third PART. + + Of the Uses of Chocolate. 60 + + Chap. I. Of Chocolate in Confections. 61 + + Chap. II. Of Chocolate properly so called. 62 + + Sect. I. Of the Origin of Chocolate, and the different + Methods of preparing it. 63 + + The Method of preparing Chocolate used in the _French_ + Islands of _America_. 67 + + Sect. II. Of the Uses that may be made of Chocolate, with + relation to Medicine. 70 + + Chap. III. Of the Oil or Butter of Chocolate. 74 + + Remarks upon some Places of this Treatise. 80 + + Medicines in whose Composition Oil, or Butter of Chocolate, + is made use of. 91 + + The wonderful Plaister for the curing of all Kinds of Ulcers. ibid. + + An excellent Pomatum for the Cure of Tettars, Ringworms, + Pimples, and other Deformities of the Skin. 94 + + * * * * * + +The APPROBATION of Monsieur _Andry_, Counsellor, Lecturer, and Regal + Professor, Doctor, Regent of the Faculty of Medicine at _Paris_, and + Censor Royal of Books. + +I Have read, by order of the Lord Keeper of the Seals, this _Natural +History of Chocolate_, and I judge that the Impression will be very +necessary and useful for the Publick. Given at _Paris_ this 5th of +_April, 1719_. + + + + +THE +Natural HISTORY +OF +CHOCOLATE. + + + + +Of the Division of this Treatise. + + +I Shall divide this Treatise on Chocolate into three Parts: In the +_First_, after I have given a Description of the _Cocao Tree_, I shall +explain how it is cultivated, and give an Account how its Fruit is +prepared: In the _Second_, I shall speak of the Properties of +_Chocolate_; and in the _Third_, of its Uses. + + + + + + +PART I. + + + + +CHAP. I. + +The Description of the _Cocao-Tree_. + + +The _Cocao-Tree_ is moderately tall and thick, and either thrives, or +not, according to the Quality of the Soil wherein it grows: Upon the +Coast of _Caraqua_, for instance, it grows considerably larger than in +the Islands belonging to the _French_. + +Its _Wood_ is porous, and very light; the _Bark_ is pretty firm, and of +the Colour of _Cinnamon_, more or less dark, according to the Age of the +Tree. The _Leaves_ are about nine Inches long, and four in breadth, +where they are broadest; for they grow less towards the two Extremities, +where they terminate in a point: their Colour is a little darkish, but +more bright above than underneath; they are joined to Stalks three +Inches long, and the tenth part of an Inch broad. This Stalk, as it +enters the Leaf, makes a strait Rib, a little raised along the Middle, +which grows proportionably less the nearer it comes to the End. From +each side of this Rib proceed thirteen or fourteen crooked Threads +alternately. + +As these Leaves only fall off successively, and in proportion as others +grow again, this Tree never appears naked: It is always flourishing, but +more especially so towards the two _Solstices_, than in the other +Seasons. + +The _Blossoms_, which are regular and like a Rose, but very small, and +without smell, proceed from the Places from which the old Leaves fall, +as it were in Bunches. A large Quantity of these fall off, for hardly +Ten of a Thousand come to good, insomuch that the Earth underneath seems +cover'd over with them. + +Every _Blossom_ is joined to the Tree by a slender Stalk half an Inch or +a little more in length; when it is yet in the Bud, it is one Fifth of +an Inch broad, and about one fourth or a little more in length: when it +was least, in proportion to the Tree and the Fruit, the more strange it +appeared to me, and more worthy of Attention[a]. + +When the Buds begin to blow, one may consider the _Calix_, the +_Foliage_, and the Heart of the Blossom. The _Calix_ is formed of the +Cover of the Bud, divided into five Parts, or Leaves, of a very pale +flesh-colour. These are succeeded by the five true Leaves of the same +Colour, which fill up the empty Spaces or Partitions of the _Calix_. +These Leaves have two Parts, the undermost of which is like an oblong +Cup, striped with Purple; on the inside, it bends towards the Center by +the help of a _Stamen_, which serves to fasten it; from this proceeds +outwardly, the other Part of the Leaf, which seems to be separate from +it, and is formed like the End of a Pike. + +The Heart is composed of five Threads and five _Stamina_, with the +_Pistilla_ in the middle. The Threads are strait, and of a purple +Colour, and placed over-against the Intervals of the Leaves. The +_Stamina_ are white, and bend outwardly with a kind of a Button on the +top, which insinuates itself into the middle of each Leaf to sustain +itself. + +When one looks at these small Objects through a Microscope, one is ready +to say, That the Point of the Threads is like Silver, and that the +_Stamina_ are Chrystal; as well as the _Pistilla_, which Nature seems to +have placed in the Center, either to be the _Primitiae_ of the young +Fruit, or to serve to defend it, if it be true that this Embryo unfolds +itself, and is produced in no other place but the Base. + +For want of observing these small Parts, as well as the Bulk of the +Blossom, _F. Plumier_ had no distinct Knowledge of them, nor has he +exactly design'd them, any more than _Mons. Tournefort_, who has done +them after his Draught[b]. + +The _Cocao-Tree_ almost all the Year bears Fruit of all Ages, which +ripen successively, but never grow on the end of little Branches, as our +Fruits in _Europe_ do, but along the Trunk and the chief Boughs, which +is not rare in these Countries, where several Trees do the like; such as +the [1]_Cocoeiers_, the [2]_Apricots_ of St. _Domingo_, the +[3]_Calebashes_, the [4]_Papaws_, &c. + +Such an unusual Appearance would seem strange in the Eyes of +_Europeans_, who had never seen any thing of that kind; but if one +examines the Matter a little, the philosophical Reason of this +Disposition is very obvious. One may easily apprehend, that if Nature +had placed such bulky Fruit at the Ends of the Branches, their great +Weight must necessarily break them, and the Fruit would fall before it +came to Maturity. + +The Fruit of the _Cocao-Tree_ is contained in a Husk or Shell, which +from an exceeding small Beginning, attains, in the space of four Months, +to the Bigness and Shape of a Cucumber; the lower End is sharp and +furrow'd length-ways like a Melon[c]. + +This Shell in the first Months is either red or white, or a Mixture of +red and yellow: This Variety of Colours makes three sorts of +_Cocao-Trees_, which have nothing else to distinguish them but this, +which I do not think sufficient to make in reality three different kinds +of _Cocao-Nuts_[d]. + +The First is of a dark vinous Red, chiefly on the sides, which becomes +more bright and pale as the Fruit ripens. + +The Second, which is the White, or rather is at first of so pale a +Green, that it may be mistaken for White; by little and little it +assumes a Citron Colour, which still growing deeper and deeper, at +length becomes entirely yellow. + +The Third, which is Red and Yellow mix'd together, unites the Properties +of the other two; for as they grow ripe, the Red becomes pale, and the +Yellow grows more deep. + +I have observed that the white Shells are thicker and shorter than the +other, especially on the side towards the Tree, and that these sorts of +Trees commonly bear most. + +If one cleaves one of these Shells length-ways, it will appear almost +half an Inch thick, and its Capacity full of Chocolate Kernels; the +Intervals of which, before they are ripe, are fill'd with a hard white +Substance, which at length turns into a Mucilage of a very grateful +Acidity: For this reason, it is common for People to take some of the +Kernels with their Covers, and hold them in their Mouths, which is +mighty refreshing, and proper to quench Thirst. But they take heed of +biting them, because the Films of the Kernels are extreamly bitter. + +When one nicely examines the inward Structure of these Shells, and +anatomizes, as it were, all their Parts; one shall find that the Fibres +of the Stalk of the Fruit passing through the Shell, are divided into +five Branches; that each of these Branches is subdivided into several +Filaments, every one of which terminates at the larger End of these +Kernels, and all together resemble a Bunch of Grapes, containing from +twenty to thirty-five single ones, or more, ranged and placed in an +admirable Order. + +I cannot help observing here, what Inconsistency there is in the +Accounts concerning the Number of Kernels in each Shell. [e]_Dampier_, +for instance, says there is commonly near a Hundred; other Moderns[f] +60, 70 or 80, ranged like the Seeds of a Pomgranate. [g]_Thomas Gage_, +30 or 40; _Colmenero_[h] 10 or 12; and _Oexmelin_[i] 10 or 12, to 14. + +I can affirm, after a thousand Tryals, that I never found more nor less +than twenty-five. Perhaps if one was to seek out the largest Shells in +the most fruitful Soil, and growing on the most flourishing Trees, one +might find forty Kernels; but as it is not likely one should ever meet +with more, so, on the other hand, it is not probable one should ever +find less than fifteen, except they are abortive, or the Fruit of a Tree +worn out with Age in a barren Soil, or without Culture. + +When one takes off the Film that covers one of the Kernels, the +Substance of it appears; which is tender, smooth, and inclining to a +violet Colour, and is seemingly divided into several Lobes, tho' in +reality they are but two; but very irregular, and difficult to be +disengaged from each other, which we shall explain more clearly in +speaking of its Vegetation. [k]_Oexmelin_ and several others have +imagined, that a _Cocao_-Kernel was composed of five or six Parts +sticking fast together; Father _Plumier_ himself fell into this Error, +and has led others into it[l]. If the Kernel be cut in two length-ways, +one finds at the Extremity of the great end, a kind of a longish +[m]Grain, one fifth of an Inch long, and one fourth Part as broad, which +is the _Germ_, or first Rudiments of the Plant; but in _European_ +Kernels this Part is placed at the other end. + +One may even see in _France_ this Irregularity of the Lobes, and also +the _Germ_ in the Kernels that are roasted and cleaned to make +Chocolate. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[a] _Piso_ says (_Montiss. Aromat. cap. 18._) that the Blossom is great +and of a bright Yellow, _Flos est magnus & flavescens instar Croci_. A +modern Author has transcribed this. Error of _Piso_; _Floribus_, says +he, _magnis pentapetalis & flavis_. _Dale_ Pharmacologia, _Pag. 441_. + +[b] Appen. Rei Herbariae. _pag._ 660. _tab._ 444. + +[1] [2] [3] [4] See the Remarks at the End of this Treatise. + +[c] _Benzo_ says they grow ripe in a Year, as well as others after him, +_Annuo Spatio maturescit, Benzo memorante_. Carol. Cluzio, l. c. _Annuo +justam attingens Maturitatem Spatio_. Franc. Hernandes, _apud_ Anton. +Rech. _In Hist. Ind. Occidental_, lib. 5. c. 1. + +[d] It seems likely that the _Spanish_ Authors who say there are four +Kinds of this at _Mexico_, have no better Foundation for the difference +than this; and Mons. _Tournefort_ had reason to say after Father +_Plumier_, that he only knew one Kind of this Tree. Cacao _Speciem +Unicam novi_. _Append. Rei Herb._ pag. 660. + +[e] _A new Voyage round the World._ Tom. 1. Ch. 3. p. 69. + +[f] Pomet's _General History of Drugs_, Book vii. Ch. xiv. pag. 205. +Chomel's _Abridgment of usual Plants_. Valentin. Hist. Simplicium +reform. lib. 2. + +[g] New Relation of the _East Indies_. Tom. 1. Part 2. Ch. 19. + +[h] A curious Discourse upon Chocolate, by _Ant. Colmenero de Cedesma_, +Physician and Chirurgeon at _Paris_ 1643. + +[i] _The History of Adventures._ Tom. 1. Pag. 423. + +[k] Ibid. + +[l] In multas veluti Amygdalas fissiles. _Tournefort_ in Append. Rei +Herb. _Pag. 660. & Tab. 444._ + +[m] I can't imagine upon what Foundation _Oexmelin_ could assert, that +the _Spaniards_ in the making of their Chocolate, used nothing but this +longish Grain, which he calls _Pignon_. Au Milieu desquelles Amandes de +Cacao, est, _says he_, un petit Pignon, qui a la Germe fort tendre, & +difficile a conserver; c'est de cette Semence que les Espaniols font la +celebre Boisson de Chocolat. _Oexmelin_ Histoire des Avanturers, _Tom. +1. pag. 423_. He confirms more plainly the same Fancy, _Pag. 426_. + + + + +CHAP. II. + +Of the Choice and Disposition of the Place for Planting _Cocao-Trees_. + + +The _Cocao-Tree_ grows naturally in several Countries in _America_ under +the Torrid Zone, but chiefly at _Mexico_, in the Provinces of +_Nicaragua_ and _Guatimala_, as also along the Banks of the River of the +_Amazons_[n]. Likewise upon the Coast of _Caraqua_, that is to say, +from Comana to Cartagena[o] and the _Golden Island_. Some also have +been found in the Woods of _Martinico_. + +The _Spaniards_ and _Portuguese_ were the first to whom the _Indians_ +communicated the Use of _Cocao-Nuts_, which they kept a long time to +themselves without acquainting other Nations with it; who in reality +know so little of it at this day, that some _Dutch_ Corsairs, ignorant +of the Value of some Prizes they had taken, out of contempt cast the +Merchandize into the Sea, calling it in derision, in very indifferent +_Spanish_, _Cacura de Carnero_[p], The Dung of Beasts. + +In 1649[q] in the _Vert_ Islands, they had never seen but one Tree +planted, which was in the Garden of an _English-Man_, an Inhabitant of +the Island of _St. Croix_[r]. In 1655, the _Caribeans_[s] shewed to M. +_du Parepet_ a _Cocao-Tree_ in the Woods of the Island of _Martinico_, +whereof he was Governour. This discovery was the Foundation of several +others of the same kind, in the Woods of the _Cape Sterre_[t] of this +Island. And it is probable that the Kernels which were taken out of +them, were the Original of those _Cocao-Trees_ that have been planted +there since. A _Jew_ named _Benjamin_ planted the first about the Year +1660, but it was not till twenty or twenty-five Years after, that the +Inhabitants of _Martinico_ apply'd themselves to the Cultivation of +_Cocao-Trees_, and to raise Nurseries of them. + +When one would raise a Nursery, it is necessary, above all things, to +chuse a proper Place, in respect of Situation, and a Soil agreeable to +the Nature of it. + +The Place should be level, moist, and not exposed to Winds; a fresh, and +(if one may be allow'd the Expression) a Virgin Soil, indifferently fat, +light, and deep. For this reason, Ground newly cleared, whose Soil is +black and sandy, which is kept moist by a River, and its Borders so high +as to shelter it from the Winds, especially towards the Sea Coast, is +preferable to any other; and they never fail putting it to this Use, +when they are so happy as to find any of this sort. + +I have said, _Ground newly cleared_, that is to say, whose Wood is cut +down purposely for it; for it is necessary to observe, that they at +present plant their Nurseries in the middle of Woods, which have been so +time out of mind, and this for two weighty Reasons: The First, because +the Wood that is left standing round it, may serve as a Shelter; and the +Second, because there is less Trouble in weeding or grubbing it. The +Ground that has never produced any Weeds, will send forth but few, for +want of Seed. + +As for Nurseries planted in high Ground, the Earth is neither moist nor +deep enough, and commonly the chief Root which grows directly downwards, +cannot pierce the hard Earth which it soon meets with. Besides, the +Winds are more boisterous, and cause the Blossoms to fall off as soon as +blown, and when a little high, overturn the Tree, whose Roots are almost +all superficial. + +This is yet worse on the Hills, whose Descent is too steep; for besides +the same Inconveniencies, the falling down of the Earth draws with it +the good Soil, and insensibly lays the Roots bare. + +One may therefore conclude that all these Nurseries are a long time +before they bear, that they are never fruitful, and that they are +destroy'd in a little time. + +It is also proper that a Nursery, as much as may be, should be +surrounded with standing Wood; but if it is open on any side, it should +be remedy'd as soon as possible, by a Border of several Ranks of Trees +called _Bananes_[5]. + +Besides this, the Nurseries should be moderate in respect of Magnitude, +for the Small have not Air enough, and are, as it were, stifled; and the +very Large are too liable to Dryness, and to the great Winds, which, in +_America_, they call _Ouragans_[u]. + +The Place of the Nursery being chosen, and the Bigness determined, they +apply themselves to clear it of the Wood. They begin with plucking up +the little Plants, and by cutting the Shrubs, and small kinds of Trees, +and felling the Trunks and larger Branches of others; they then make +Piles, and set them on fire in all Parts, and so burn down the largest +Trees of all, to save themselves the trouble of cutting them. + +When all is burnt, and there remains nothing upon the Earth, but the +Trunks of the great Trees which they don't trouble themselves to +consume, and when the Space is well cleaned, they make Alleys by the +help of a Line, strait and at equal Distances from each other, and +thrust Sticks into the Ground of two or three Foot long, and 5, 6, 7, 8, +9 or 10 Feet distant, or at such a distance that they design to plant +the _Cocao-Trees_, which they represent. Afterwards they plant _Manioc_ +in the empty Spaces, taking care not to come too near the Sticks. + +One may observe, that the Nurseries planted at the great Distances of +eight or ten Feet, are a great deal more troublesome to keep clean in +the first Years, as we shall observe hereafter; but then they prosper a +great deal better, bear more, and last longer. + +The Inhabitants, who have a great deal to do, and have but few Slaves, +plant the Trees nearer, because by this means they gain room, and they +have less trouble to keep it clear; when afterwards the Trees come to +hurt and annoy each other by their Proximity, and they have had some +Crops to supply their present Necessities: or if otherwise, they are +obliged to cut some to give Air to the rest. + +On the Coast of _Caraqua_, they plant the _Cocao-Trees_ at 12 or 15 Feet +distance, and they make Trenches to water them from time to time in the +dry Seasons. They happily experienced the Success of this Practice at +_Martinico_ some Years since. + +The _Manioc_[6] is a woody Shrub, whose Roots being grated, and baked +on the Fire, yield a _Cassave_, or Meal, which serves to make Bread for +all the Natives of _America_. They plant it in the new Nurseries, not +only because it is necessary to supply the _Negroes_ with Food, but also +it hinders the Growth of Weeds, and serves to shade the young +_Cocao-Trees_, whose tender Shoots, and even the second Leaves, are not +able to resist the scorching Beams of the Sun. For this reason they wait +till the _Manioc_ shades the Feet of the Sticks before they plant the +_Cocao-Trees_, in the manner that we shall describe in the following +Chapter. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[n] Relation of the River of the _Amazons_. + +[o] I have added this Explication, because _Pomet_ makes it come from +_Caraqua_, of the Province of _Nicaragua_ in _New Spain_, which is +distant from _Caracas_ 5 or 600 Leagues. V. VII. Chap. xiv. + +[p] Thomas Gage, _Tom. 1. Part 2. Chap. 19. Pag. 150._ + +[q] Rochefort's _Natural History of the _Antilloes_. Book 1. Chap. 6. +Artic. 16._ + +[r] Father _Tertre_'s Hist. of the _Antilloes_. Tom. 2. p. 184. + +[s] These are the Savage Natives of the _Antilloes_. + +[t] That Part is call'd so, which lies exposed to the Winds which come +always from the _North-East_ to the _South-East_. That Part under the +Wind, is called _Basse-Terre_. + +[5] See the fifth Remark at the End of the Treatise. + +[u] These violent and outrageous Winds blow from all Points of the +Compass in twenty-four Hours. And this is one material thing to +distinguish them from the regular and common Winds of this Climate. + +[6] See the Remark at the sixth Article. + + + + +CHAP. III. + +Of the Method of Planting a Nursery, and to cultivate it till the Fruit +comes to Maturity. + + +_Cocao-Trees_ are planted from the Kernel or Seed, for the Nature of the +Wood will not admit of Slips: They open a _Cocao-Shell_, and according +as they have occasion, take out the Kernels, and plant them one by one, +beginning, for example, at the first Stick: They pluck it up, and with a +sort of a Setting-Stick made of Iron, and well sharpened, they make a +Hole, and turning the Iron about, cut off the little Roots that may do +hurt. They plant the Kernel three or four Inches deep, and thrust in the +Stick they before had pluck'd up a little on one side, to serve as a +Mark: and so they proceed from Stick to Stick, and from Rank to Rank, +till they have gone through the whole Nursery. + +It must be observed, 1. _Not to plant in a dry Season._ One may indeed +plant in any Month of the Year, or any Moon, new or old, when the Season +is cool, and the Place ready; but it is commonly believed, that planting +from _September_ to _Christmas_, the Trees bear more than in some +Months. + +2. _Not to plant any but the largest Kernels, and such as are plump_: +For since in the finest Shells there are sometimes withered Kernels, it +would be very imprudent to make use of them. + +3. _To plant the great Ends of the Kernels lowermost._ This is that +which is held by a little Thread to the Center of the Shell, when one +takes the Kernel out. If the little End was placed downward, the Foot of +the Tree would become crooked, neither would it prosper; and if it was +placed sideways, the Foot would not succeed very well. + +4. _To put two or three Kernels at every Stick_, that if by any +Mischance the tender Shoots of one or two are broken by Insects, or +otherwise, there may be one left to supply the Defect. If no bad +Accident happen, you have the advantage of chusing the straitest and +most likely Shoot. But it is not best to cut up the supernumerary ones +till that which is chosen is grown up, and, according to all appearance, +out of danger. + +The Kernels come up in ten or twelve Days, more or less, according as +the Season, more or less favourable, hastens or backens their Growth: +The longish Grain of the Germ beginning to swell, sends forth the little +Root downwards, which afterwards becomes the chief Stay of the Tree, and +upwards it pushes out the Shoot, which is an Epitomy of the Trunk and +the Branches. These Parts encreasing, and discovering themselves more +and more, the two Lobes of the Kernel a little separated and bent back, +appear first out of the Earth, and regain their natural Position, in +proportion as the Shoot rises, and then separate themselves intirely, +and become two Leaves of a different Shape, of an obscure Green, thick, +unequal, and, as it were, shrivel'd up, and make what they call the +_Ears_ of the Plant. The Shoot appears at the same time, and is divided +into two tender Leaves of bright Green: To these two first Leaves, +opposite to each other, succeed two more, and to these a third Pair. The +Stalk or Trunk rises in proportion, and thence forward during a Year, or +thereabouts. + +The whole Cultivation of the _Cocao-Tree_ may then be reduced to the +Practice of two Things. + +_First_, To over-look them during the first fifteen Days; that is to +say, to plant new Kernels in the room of those that do not come up, or +whose Shoots have been destroy'd by Insects, which very often make +dreadful Havock among these Plants, even when one would think they are +out of danger. Some Inhabitants make Nurseries a-part, and transplant +them to the Places where they are wanting: but as they do not all grow, +especially when they are a little too big, or the Season not favourable, +and because the greatest part of those that do grow languish a long +time, it always seem'd to me more proper to set fresh Kernels; and I am +persuaded, if the Consequences are duly weighed, it will be practised +for the future. + +_Secondly_, Not to let any Weeds grow in the Nursery, but to cleanse it +carefully from one end to the other, and taking care, above all things, +not to let any Herb or Weed grow up to Seed; for if it should happen so +but once, it will be very difficult thenceforwards to root those +troublesome Guests out, and to keep the Nursery clean, because the Cold +in this Country never interrupts Vegetation. + +This Weeding should be continued till the Trees are become large, and +their Branches spreading, cast such a Shade as to hinder the Weeds from +coming up; and afterwards, the Leaves falling from the Trees, and +covering the Earth, will contribute to stifle them intirely. When this +troublesome Business of Weeding is ended, it will be sufficient to +overlook them once a Month, and pluck up here and there those few Weeds +that remain, and to carry them far into the Woods for fear of Seeds. + +When the _Cocao-Trees_ are nine Months old, the _Manioc_ should then +begin to be pluck'd up; and it should be managed so, that in three +Months time there should be none left. There may be a Row or two +replanted in each Alley, and Cucumbers, Citruls, and [x]_Giraumonts_ +may be sow'd in the void Spaces, or _Caribean_ Coleworts; because these +Plants having great spreading Leaves, are very proper to keep the Earth +cool and moist, and to stifle the noisome Weeds. When the _Cocao-Trees_ +come to shade the Ground entirely, then it will be necessary to pluck up +every thing, for nothing then will grow beneath 'em. + +The _Cocao-Trees_ of one Year old have commonly a Trunk of four Feet +high, and begin to spread, by sending out five Branches at the top, all +at a time, which forms that which they call the _Crown_ of a +_Cocao-Tree_. It seldom happens that any of these five Branches are +wanting, and if by any Accident, or contrary to the Order of Nature, it +has but three or four, the Tree never comes to good, and it will be +better to cut it off, and wait for a new Crown, which will not be long +before it is form'd. + +If at the end of the Year the _Manioc_ is not plucked up, they will make +the Trees be more slow in bearing; and their Trunks running up too high, +will be weak, slender, and more exposed to the Winds. If they should be +crowned, their Crowns will be too close; and the chief Branches not +opening themselves enough, the Trees will never be sufficiently +disengaged, and will not spread so much as they ought to do. + +When all the Trunks are crowned, they chuse the finest Shoots, and cut +up the supernumerary ones without mercy; for if this is not done out of +hand, it will be difficult to persuade one's self afterwards: tho it is +not possible but that Trees placed so near each other, should be hurtful +to each other in the end. + +The Trees are no sooner crown'd, but they send forth, from time to time, +an Inch or two above the Crown, new Shoots, which they call Suckers: If +Nature was permitted to play her part, these Suckers would soon produce +a second Crown, that again new Suckers, which will produce a third, +_&c._ Thus the _Cocao-Trees_ proceed, that are wild and uncultivated, +which are found in the Woods of _Cape-Sterre_ in _Martinico_. But seeing +all these Crowns do but hinder the Growth of the first, and almost +bring it to nothing, tho it is the principal; and that the Tree, if left +to itself, runs up too high, and becomes too slender; they should take +care every Month when they go to weed it, or gather the Fruit, to prune +it; that is to say, to cut or lop off all the Suckers. + +I don't know whether they have yet thought it proper to prune, any more +than to graft upon _Cocao-Trees_: There is however a sort of Pruning +which, in my Opinion, would be very advantageous to it. These sort of +Trees, for example, have always (some more than others) dead Branches +upon them, chiefly upon the Extremities of the Boughs; and there is no +room to doubt but it would be very proper to lop off these useless +Branches, paring them off with the pruning Knife even to the Quick. But +as the Advantage that will accrue from it will neither be so immediate, +nor so apparent as the Time and Pains that is employ'd in it; it is very +probable that this Care will be neglected, and that it will be esteem'd +as Labour lost. But however, the _Spaniards_ do not think so; for, on +the contrary, they are very careful to cut off all the dead Sprigs: for +which reason their Trees are more flourishing than ours, and yield much +finer Fruit. I believe they have not the same care in grafting them, nor +do I think any Person has hitherto attempted to do it: I am persuaded +nevertheless, that the _Cocao-Trees_ would be better for it. Is it not +by the assistance of grafting our Fruit Trees in several manners, (which +were originally wild, and found by chance in the Woods) that they have +at length found the Art of making them bear such excellent Fruit? + +In proportion as the _Cocao-Trees_ grow, the Leaves upon the Trunks fall +off by little and little, which ought to fall off on their own accord; +for when they are entirely bare, they have not long to flourish: The +first Blossoms commonly fall off, and the ripe Fruit is not to be +expected in less time than three Years, and that if it be in a good +Soil. The fourth Year the Crop is moderate, and the fifth it is as great +as ever it will be; for then the Trees commonly bear all the Year about, +and have Blossoms and Fruit of all Ages. Some Months indeed there is +almost none, and others, they are loaded; and towards the Solstices, +that is, in _June_ and _December_, they bear most. + +As in the Tempests called _Ouragans_ the Wind blows from all Points of +the Compass in twenty-four Hours, it will be well if it does not break +in at the weakest Place of the Nursery, and do a great deal of Mischief, +which it is necessary to remedy with all possible expedition. If the +Wind has only overturn'd the Trees without breaking the chief Root, then +the best Method that can be taken in good Soil, is to raise them up +again, and put them in their Places, propping them up with a Fork, and +putting in the Earth about it very carefully: By this means they will be +re-establish'd in less than six Months, and they will bear again as if +no harm had come to them. In bad Soil, it will be better to let them +lie, putting the Earth about the Roots, and cultivate at their lower +Parts, or Feet, the best grown Sucker, and that which is nearest the +Roots, cutting off carefully all the rest: The Tree in this Condition +will not give over blossoming and bearing Fruit; and when in two Years +time the Sucker is become a new Tree, the old Tree must be cut off half +a Foot distant from the Sucker. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[x] These are Citruls whose Pulp is very yellow. + + + + +CHAP IV. + +Of the gathering of the _Cocao-Nuts_, and the Manner of making them +sweat, and of drying them that they may be brought sound into _Europe_. + + +The Observations which we made in the first Chapter, concerning the +Alterations of the Colour of the Nuts, give us information of the time +that they become ripe. It will be proper to gather them when all the +Shell has changed Colour, and when there is but a small Spot below which +shall remain green. They go from Tree to Tree, and from Row to Row, and +with forked Sticks or Poles, they cause the ripe Nuts to fall down, +taking great care not to touch those that are not so, as well as the +Blossoms: They employ the most handy _Negroes_ in this Work, and others +follow them with Baskets to gather them, and lay them in Heaps, where +they remain four Days without being touch'd. + +In the Months that they bear most, they gather them for a Fortnight +together; in the less-fruitful Seasons, they only gather them from Month +to Month. If the Kernels were left in Shells more than four Days, they +would sprit, or begin to grow, and be quite spoiled[y]: It is therefore +necessary to shell them on the fifth Day in the Morning at farthest. To +do this, they strike on the middle of the Shells with a Bit of Wood to +cleave them, and then pull them open with their Fingers, and take out +the Kernels, which they put in Baskets, casting the empty Shells upon +the Ground, that they may with the Leaves, being putrified, serve to +fatten the Earth, and supply the Place of Dung. + +They afterwards carry all the Kernels into a House, and lay them on a +heap upon a kind of loose Floor cover'd with Leaves of _Balize_[7], +which are about four Feet long, and twenty Inches broad; then they +surround it with Planks cover'd with the same Leaves, making a kind of +Granary, which may contain the whole Pile of Kernels, when spread +abroad. They cover the whole with the like Leaves, and lay some Planks +over all: the Kernels thus laid on a heap, and cover'd close on all +sides, do not fail to grow warm, by the Fermentation of their insensible +Particles; and this is what they call _Sweating_, in those Parts. + +They uncover the Kernels Morning and Evening, and send the _Negroes_ +among them; who with their Feet and Hands, turn them topsy turvy, and +then cover them up as before, with the same Leaves and the same Planks. +They continue to do this for five Days, at the end of which they have +commonly sweat enough, which is discover'd by their Colour, which grows +a great deal deeper, and very ruddy. + +The more the Kernels sweat, the more they lose their Weight and +Bitterness: but if they have not sweat enough, they are more bitter, and +smell sour, and sometimes sprit. To succeed well therefore, there should +be a certain Medium observed, which is only to be learnt by use. + +When the Kernels have sweat enough, they lay them out to air, and expose +them to the Sun to dry them, in the manner following. + +They prepare before-hand, several Benches about two Foot high, in an +even Court appointed for that purpose; they lay upon these Benches +several Mats made of pieces of Reeds split in two, together with Bands +made of _Mahot_ Bark[8]. Upon these Mats they put the Kernels about two +Inches in height and move and turn them very often with a proper Piece +of Wood for the first two Days. At Night they wrap up the Kernels in the +Mats, which they cover with _Balize_ Leaves for fear of Rain, and they +do the same in the day-time when it is likely to rain. Those who are +afraid of having them stolen, lock them up. + +There are some Inhabitants who keep Boxes about five Feet long, and two +broad, and three or four Inches deep, on purpose to dry the Kernels: +There is this Advantage in them, that in the greatest Rains and +suddenest Showers, they may presently be piled one on the top of +another, so that none but the top-most will want a Cover; which is soon +done with the aforesaid Leaves, and an empty Box turn'd up-side down. +But that which makes the Usage of Mats preferable, is, that the Air may +pass through beneath, between the Partition of the Reeds, and so dry the +Kernels better. Boxes whose Bottoms are made like a Sieve with strong +Brass Wire, would be very excellent; but then they must be made in +_Europe_, which would be a considerable Charge. + +When the Kernels have sweat enough, they must be exposed upon the Mats +as much as necessary: If Rain is foreseen that is likely to last, it +will be best to let them sweat half a Day less. It is observable, that a +few hours Rain at first, instead of doing any harm, makes them more +beautiful, and better conditioned. In fair Weather, instead of this +Rain, it will be proper to expose them to the Dew for the first Nights. +The Rain of a whole Day or two will do no harm, if they are not covered +before they have had the Benefit of the Sun, for a Day, or half a Day at +least. For after a Day's Sun-shine, they are to be wrap'd in the Mat, +as before directed; but if it be half a Day's Rain only, then they are +only covered with _Balize_ Leaves in the Night, kept on with little +Stones laid at each End: But if the Rain be too long, it makes them +split, and then they will not keep long; they therefore make Chocolate +of it immediately. + +If the Kernels have not sweat enough, or they wrap them too soon in the +Mat, they are subject to sprit or germe, which makes them bitter, and +good for nothing. + +When the Kernels have been once wrapped in a Mat, and begun to dry, care +must be taken that they do not grow moist again; they must therefore be +well stirr'd from time to time, that they may be thorowly dry'd, which +you may know by taking a Handful in your Hand, and shutting it: if it +cracks, then it is time to put them into your Store-house, and to expose +them to sale. + +Those who would gain a Reputation in giving out a good Merchandize, +before they pack it up in Vessels, pick it, and throw aside the little, +wither'd, and thin Kernels, which are not only unsightly, but render the +Chocolate something worse. + +Afterwards the Kernels of the _Cocao-Nut_ are dried in the Sun, before +they are brought to _Europe_, and sold by the Druggists and Grocers, who +distinguish it into great and small, and into that of _Caraqua_, and +that of the _French_ Islands, tho with no good Foundation, for in the +Places themselves they make no mention of this Distinction: It therefore +seems likely, that the Merchants find their account in sorting it, since +Kernels proceeding from the same Tree, and from the same Nut, are not +always of the same bigness. It is indeed true, that if one Parcel of +Kernels be compared with another, the one may consist of bigger than the +other, which may arise from the Age or Vigour of the Trees, or from the +Nature of the Soil; but certainly there is no kind of Kernels which may +be called Great, as a distinct Kind, nor consequently no other which can +properly be said to be Small. + +The Kernels that come to us from the Coast of _Caraqua_, are more oily, +and less bitter, than those that come from the _French_ Islands, and in +_France_ and _Spain_ they prefer them to these latter: But in _Germany_, +and in the North (_Fides sit penes Autorem_) they have a quite opposite +Taste. Several People mix that of _Caraqua_ with that of the Islands, +half in half, and pretend by this Mixture to make the Chocolate better. +I believe in the bottom, the difference of Chocolates is not +considerable, since they are only obliged to encrease or diminish the +Proportion of Sugar, according as the Bitterness of the Kernels require +it. For it must be considered, as we have already said, that there is +but one kind of _Cocao-Tree_, which grows as naturally in the Woods of +_Martinico_, as in those of the Coast of _Caraqua_, that the Climates +are almost the same, and consequently the Temperature of the Seasons +equal, and therefore there cannot be any intrinsick Difference between +these Fruits of any great moment. + +As to the outward Difference that is observed, it can arise from nothing +but the Richness of the Soil, or the contrary; from the different +Culture, and from the Care or Negligence of the Labourers and those that +prepare it, from the time of its gathering, to the time of its Delivery, +and perhaps from all three together. It is to be observed at +_Martinico_, that the _Cocao-Trees_ prosper better in some Parts than +others, merely from the Difference of the Soil, being more or less rich, +or more or less moist. + +I have had the Experience of one of my Friends, concerning what relates +to the Cultivation and Preparation of this Tree and its Fruit, which +demonstrates that they may add to its Value. This Gentleman, with a +great deal of Application and Thought, found out the way to prepare the +finest Merchandize of the Island, which was prefer'd by the Merchants to +all the rest, and bore a greater Price than that of any of his +Neighbours. + +The Kernels of _Caraqua_ are flattish, and for Bulk and Figure not +unlike our large Beans. Those of _St. Domingo_, _Jamaica_, and _Cuba_, +are generally larger than those of the _Antilloes_. The more bulky the +Kernels are, and better they have been nourished, the less Waste there +is after they have been roasted and cleansed, which some Years ago was +an Advantage to those of _Caraqua_. But at present, by the Regulation +from the Month of _April_, 1717, the Kernels of our Colonies pay but +Two-pence Duty for Entry, whereas Foreigners pay always Fifteen: These +thirteen Pence difference make such ample amends for the small Waste, +that there is a great deal of reason to hope, that for the time to come, +there will be none but the Curious, and People that do not value the +Expence, that will make use of the Chocolate of _Caraqua_, by way of +preference to that of the _French_ Islands, and that the Cheapness of +the latter will double the Consumption at least. + +The best _Cocao-Nuts_ have very brown firm Shells, and when the Kernel +is taken out, it ought to be plump, well nourish'd, and sleek; of the +Colour of a Hazle-Nut on the outside, but more inclining to a Red +within; its Taste a little bitter and astringent, not at all sour or +mouldy[z]. In a word, without any Smell, and not worm-eaten. + +The Fruit of the _Cocao-Tree_ is the most oily that Nature has produced, +and it has this admirable Prerogative, never to grow rank let it be ever +so old, which all other Fruit do that are analogous to it in Qualities; +such as _Nuts_, _Almonds_, _Pine-Apple-Kernels_, _Pistachoe Nuts_, +_Olives_, &c. + +There are also imported from _America_, _Cocao-Kernel-Cakes_ of about a +Pound weight each; and as this Preparation is the first and principal in +the Composition of Chocolate, it will be proper to add here the Manner +of making it. + +The _Indians_, from whom we borrow it, are not very nice in doing it; +they roast the Kernels in earthen Pots, then free them from their Skins, +and afterwards crush and grind them between two Stones, and so form +Cakes of it with their Hands. + +The _Spaniards_, more industrious than the _Savages_, and at this day +other Nations after their Example, chuse out the best Kernels[a], and +the most fresh: Of these they put about two Pounds in a great Iron +Shovel over a clear Fire, stirring them continually with a large +_Spatula_, so long that they may be roasted enough to have their Skins +come off easily, which should be done one by one[b], laying them +a-part; and taking great heed that the rotten and mouldy Kernels be +thrown away, and all that comes off the good ones; for these Skins being +left among the Chocolate, will not dissolve in any Liquor, nor even in +the Stomach, and fall to the bottom of Chocolate-Cups, as if the Kernels +had not been cleansed. + +If one was curious to weigh the Kernels at the Druggists, and then weigh +them again after they are roasted and cleansed, one should find that +there would be about a sixth Part wasted, more or less, according to the +Nature and Qualities of the Kernels; that is to say, if you bought (for +example) 30 Pounds, there would remain entirely cleansed, near +twenty-five. + +All the Kernels being thus roasted and cleansed at divers times, they +put them once more to roast in the same Iron Shovel, but over a more +gentle Fire, and stir them with the _Spatula_ without ceasing till they +are roasted all alike, and as much as they ought to be; which one may +discover by their Taste, and their dark-brown Colour, without being +black. The whole Art consists in avoiding the two Extremes, of not +roasting them enough, and roasting them too much; that is to say, till +they are burnt. If they are not roasted enough, they retain a +disagreeable Harshness of Taste; and if they are roasted so much as to +burn them, besides the Bitterness and ill Taste that they contract, they +lose their Oilyness entirely, and the best part of their good Qualities. + +In _France_, where they are very apt to run into Extremes, they are +mighty fond of the burnt Taste, and the black Colour, as if they were +proper Marks of good Chocolate, not considering that, Quantity for +Quantity, they may as well put so much Charcoal as burnt Chocolate. This +Opinion is not only agreeable to Reason and good Sense, but is also +confirmed by the unanimous Consent of all that have written on this +Subject; and I can affirm, that it is authorized by the universal +Consent of all _America_. + +When the Kernels are duly roasted, and well cleansed, they put them into +a large Mortar to reduce them into a gross Powder, which they afterwards +grind upon a Stone till it is very fine, which requires a more +particular Explication. + +They make choice of a Stone which naturally resists the Fire, not so +soft as to rub away easily, nor so hard as to endure polishing. They cut +it from 16 to 18 Inches broad, and about 27 or 30 long, and 3 in +thickness, and hollowed in the middle about an Inch and a half deep. +This Stone should be fix'd upon a Frame of Wood or Iron, a little higher +on one side than the other: Under, they place a Pan of Coals to heat the +Stone, so that the Heat melting the oily Parts of the Kernels, and +reducing it to the Consistence of Honey, makes it easy for the Iron +Roller, which they make use of for the sake of its Strength, to make it +so fine as to leave neither Lump, nor the least Hardness. This Roller is +a Cylinder of polish'd Iron, two Inches in diameter, and about eighteen +long, having at each End a wooden Handle of the same Thickness, and six +Inches long, for the Workman to hold by. + +When the Paste is ground as much as is thought necessary, they put it +hot in Moulds made of Tin, where they leave it, and it becomes hard in a +very little time. The Shape of these Moulds is arbitrary, and every one +may have them made according to his Fancy; but the cylindrick ones, +which will hold about 2 or 3 Pounds of Chocolate, seem to me to be most +proper; because the thicker they are, the longer they keep good, and may +be commodiously held when there is occasion to scrape them. These Rolls +ought to be wrapped in Paper, and kept in a dry Place: it should also be +observed, that they are very susceptible of good and ill Smells, and +that it is good to keep them 5 or 6 Months before they are used. + +Now the Kernels being sufficiently rubb'd and ground upon the Stone, as +we have just directed, if you would compleat the Composition in the +Mass, there is nothing more to be done, than to add to this Paste a +Powder sifted thro a fine Searce, composed of Sugar, Cinnamon, and, if +it be desired, of _Vanilla_[c], according to the Quantities and +Proportions, which we shall teach in the Third Part of this Treatise; +and mix it well upon the Stone, the better to blend it and incorporate +it together, and then to fashion it in Moulds made of Tin in the form of +Lozenges of about 4 Ounces each, or if desired, half a Pound. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[y] For this reason, when they would send _Cocao-Nuts_ to the +neighbouring Islands from _Martinico_, that they may have wherewithal to +plant, they are very careful not to gather them till the Transport +Vessel is ready to sail, and to make use of them as soon as they arrive. +For this reason also it is not possible that the Spaniards, when they +design to preserve Nuts for planting, should let them be wither'd and +perfectly dry, and that afterwards they should take the Kernels of these +same Nuts, and dry them very carefully in the Shade, and after all, +raise a Nursery with them, as _Oexmelin_ reports, _History of +Adventurers_, Tom. 1. Pag. 424. + +[7] See the seventh Note hereafter. + +[8] The _Mahot_ is a Shrub, whose Leaves are round and feel soft like +those of _Guimauve_; its Bark easily comes off, which they divide into +long Slangs, which serves for Packthread and Cords to the Inhabitants +and Natives. + +[z] It gets this Taste either by being laid in a moist Place, or by +being wet by Sea-Water in the Passage. + +[a] As the Kernels are never so clean, but there may be Stones, Earth, +and bad ones among them; it will be necessary, before they are used, to +sift them in a Sieve that will let these things pass through, while it +retains the Kernels. + +[b] The Artists, to make this Work more expeditious, and to gain time, +put a thick Mat upon a Table, and spread the Kernels upon it as they +come hot from the Shovel, and roll a Roller of Iron over them to crack +and get off the Skins of the Kernels; afterward they winnow all in a +splinter Sieve, till the Kernels become entirely cleansed. + +[c] What this is, you will find hereafter. + + + + + + +THE +Natural HISTORY +OF +CHOCOLATE. + +PART II. + +Of the Properties of Chocolate. + + +We have hitherto treated of _Chocolate_, as it were, superficially, and +as it presents itself to our Senses. We come next to examine its +intrinsick Qualities, and to search into its Nature: As far as we can, +we will discover what Reason, join'd to long Experience, has taught us +concerning the salutary Properties of this Fruit. + + + + +CHAP. I. + +Of the old Prejudices against Chocolate. + + +To proceed more methodically, and with greater Clearness in our +Enquiries concerning _Chocolate_, it seems proper to set People right +about the Prejudices which a false Philosophy has instilled into most +Authors who have wrote upon this Subject; the Impressions whereof, are +yet very deeply ingraven in the Minds of a great Number of People. + +The _Spaniards_, who were first acquainted with Chocolate after the +Conquest of the new World, have laid it down for an undoubted Truth, +that _Chocolate_ is cold and dry, participating of the Nature of Earth. +They have supported this Determination neither with Reason nor +Experience; nor do they know from whence they learnt it; perhaps they +have taken it upon the Words, and from the Tradition of the Inhabitants +of the Country. Let that be as it will, it is natural from false +Principles to draw false Conclusions, of which the two principal are as +follow. + +The first is, That Chocolate being by Nature cold, it ought not to be +used without being mixed with Spices, which are commonly hot, that so +they might, both together, become temperate and wholesome. This was the +Jargon and Practice of those Times. For the same Reason the ancient +Physicians erroneously imagining that _Opium_ was cold in the fourth +Degree, never fail'd to correct this pretended Coldness in their +narcotick Compositions, with Drugs extremely hot, as _Euphorbium_, +_Pellitory_, _Pepper_, &c. + +Their second Conclusion was, That Chocolate being dry and earthy, and +from thence supposed to be of a styptick and astringent Quality; if it +was not corrected, must necessarily breed Obstructions in the _Viscera_, +and bring on a Cacochimy, and a great Number of other incurable +Diseases. + +These Prejudices have from the _Spaniards_ pass'd into other Nations. To +prove this, it will be unnecessary to cite a great Number of Authors, +for whoever has read one, has read them all, the later having done +nothing but copy the former; they have even sometimes improved their +Dreams, and exaggerated this pretended Coldness of Chocolate, and at +length push'd the Matter so far, as to make it a kind of cold Poison; +and if it was taken to Excess, it would bring on a Consumption[1]. + +"Mexiaci friget nativa Cocai Temperies, tantoq; excedit Frigore ut +inter noxia ne dubitem glandes censere Venena." _Thom. Strozzae_ de Mentis +potu seu de Cocolatis Opificio, _lib. 3_. + +"Hinc siquis solo Cocolatis Fomite Vitam extrahat, atq; assueta neget +Cibi Prandia, sensim contrahet exsueto marcentem Corpora Tabem." + +It is not very extraordinary that People who are more ready to _believe_ +than to _examine_, (such as the World is full of) should give into the +unanimous Opinion of so many Authors; and it would be strange if they +were not carry'd down by the Stream of a Prejudice so general. But I +cannot sufficiently admire that _Chocolate_ being so much decry'd, has +not been entirely laid aside as unfit for Use; without doubt there was +nothing but the daily Experience of its good Effects, which could +support it, and hinder it from giving way to Calumny. + +Now to overturn this old System, it is sufficient, in my Opinion, to +observe with how little Skill and Penetration they then treated of the +whole Natural History; one ought not to be amazed that they have +affirmed _Chocolate_ to be cold and dry, in an Age when, for Example, +they could say _Camphire_ was cold and moist, which is a kind of Resin, +from whence one Drop of Water cannot be extracted, whose sharp Taste, +and penetrating Smell, joined to the extreme Volatility and +Inflammability of its Particles, even in Water itself, are such evident +Signs of its Heat, that it is difficult to conceive upon what account +they persuade themselves of the contrary. + +The Qualities of Chocolate are not indeed so remarkable, nor so active, +as those of Camphire; but, with the least Attention, one may easily +discern, that the Quantity of Oil that it contains, and the Bitterness +that is perceivable in Tasting, are not the Marks of Coldness, since all +Bitters are esteem'd hot, and since Oil is a Matter very near a-kin to, +and necessary for Fire. This is very near the Reasoning of a celebrated +Physician at _Rome_[2] against the old Opinion: _As for me_, says he, _I +am of another Judgment; I believe that Chocolate is rather _temperate_ +than _cold_, and I refer my self to the Decision of every ingenious +Person that will be at the pains to taste and examine it._ + +These Reflections will be farther confirmed in the first Section of the +following Chapter, where we shall experimentally demonstrate that +Chocolate is a Substance very temperate, yielding soft and wholesome +Nourishment, incapable of doing any Harm. And if this intrinsick +Coldness is no more to be feared, it must be own'd, that it will be +henceforward ridiculous, if not pernicious, to join it with hot acrid +Spices, more likely to alter and destroy its good and real Qualities, +than to correct the bad ones which it has not: I nevertheless do not +doubt but the Pleasantness of the Smell, and the favourite Taste of +several agreeable Spices, being pretty much liked in this Mixture, will +have their Partizans; who, more delighted with a present Gratification, +than afraid of the insensible Prejudice that these Ingredients bring to +their Health, will not resolve to leave them off. Tho these will be no +longer the Correctors of Chocolate, yet they will serve to season it, +with which they will please their Taste, without troubling themselves +with the Consequences. But those Persons who will give themselves the +trouble of thinking, and are more tractable and less sensual, will +wisely abstain from such Extreams, and their Moderation will not be +unattended with Benefit. Health is so valuable a Blessing, that the Care +to gain and preserve it, ought to supersede any other Consideration. + +As to the pretended Obstructions which Chocolate is said to occasion +from its astrictive Quality, they are so far from being afraid of it in +_America_, that they have found by Experience a Vertue directly contrary +to it; for several young Women, subject to the Whites, have been cured +of this Distemper, by eating a Dozen _Cocao_ Kernels for Breakfast every +Morning. It is well enough known that Obstructions are the Cause of this +Disease, which instead of being encreas'd by Chocolate, were entirely +taken away. + +Then as to those strange Disorders which are said to arise from its +immoderate Use, we shall bring in the Sequel so many Facts directly +contrary to these Chimerical Fears, that all Persons of good Sense will +be disabused, and convinced of the salutary and wonderful Properties of +this Fruit; which shall be the Subject of the following Chapter. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[1] _Ludov. Ramira_, Relat. ad Hurtad. ad Append. cap. + +[2] _Paulus Zachias_, de Malo Hypocondriaco, Lib. 2. Cap. 15. + + + + +CHAP. II. + +Of the real Properties of Chocolate. + + +Without talking in the Dialect of the _Peripateticks_, about the +Qualities of Heat and Coldness, now-a-days so much decry'd, it will not +be difficult to prove that Chocolate is a Substance, 1. Very temperate. +2. Very nourishing, and of easy Digestion. 3. Very proper to repair the +exhausted Spirits and decayed Strength. 4. _Lastly_, Very suitable to +preserve the Health, and prolong the Lives of old Men. These four +Articles shall be sufficiently demonstrated in the four following +Sections. + + +SECT. I. + +Chocolate is very Temperate. + +Nothing is so great an Argument that _Wheat_, _Rice_, _Millet_, and +_Manioc_, are salutary and temperate, as their being used by whole +Nations together. If any of these Substances had any predominant evil +Quality, it would soon appear to the Prejudice of the Health of Numbers; +the People who subsist upon it, would soon leave it off as a very +dangerous and hurtful Aliment. + +One may reason much after the same manner with respect to Chocolate. The +Natives of _New-Spain_, and of a great part of the Torrid Zone of +_America_, have always used it as a Delicacy; and at this day all the +_European_ Colonies which are establish'd in those Countries, make a +Consumption of vast Quantities of it: These People use it at all Times, +and in all Seasons, as constant daily Food, without regard to Age, Sex, +Temperament, or Condition, without Complaint of having received the +least Prejudice from it; they find on the contrary that it quenches +Thirst, is very refreshing and feeding; that it procures easy quiet +Sleep, and produces several other good Effects, to say nothing of those +we are going to treat of in the following Sections. I could produce +several Instances in favour of this excellent Nourishment, but I shall +content myself with two only, equally certain and decisive in the Proof +of its Goodness. The first is an Experiment of Chocolate's being taken +for the _only_ Nourishment, made by a Surgeon's Wife of _Martinico_: She +had lost by a very deplorable Accident her lower Jaw, which reduced her +to such a Condition, that she did not know how to subsist; she was not +capable of taking any thing solid, and not rich enough to live upon +Jellies and nourishing Broths. In this Strait she determined to take +three Dishes of Chocolate, prepared after the manner of the Country, one +in the Morning, one at Noon, and one at Night. (There, Chocolate is +nothing else but _Cocao_ Kernels dissolved in hot Water, with Sugar, and +season'd with a Bit of Cinnamon.) This new way of Life succeeded so +well, that she has lived a long while since, more lively and robust than +before this Accident. + +I had the second Relation from a Gentleman of _Martinico_, and one of my +Friends, not capable of a Falsity. He assured me, that in his +Neighbourhood, an Infant of four Months old unfortunately lost his +Nurse, and its Parents not being able to put it to another, resolved +through Necessity to feed it with _Chocolate_; the Success was very +happy, for the Infant came on to a Miracle, and was neither less healthy +nor less vigorous than those who are brought up by the best Nurses. + +The Inferences that may be drawn from these two Histories are evident, +and demonstratively prove that Chocolate has neither any intemperate nor +hurtful Quality; I shall therefore say no more upon them, leaving every +one to make his own proper Reflections. + + +SECT. II. + +Chocolate is very nourishing and of easy Digestion. + +This Proposition is a necessary Consequence of the foregoing, +established by Facts which I have just related; and we have Experiments +as convincing of its easy Digestion, and the Goodness of the Chyle that +it makes; but it needs no other Proof than the good Condition it puts +those in, who ordinarily make use of it. + +A learned _Englishman_ has carried his Commendations so high concerning +this particular Property of Chocolate, that he has not scrupled to +affirm in a Dissertation that he has publish'd upon this Subject, That +one Ounce of Chocolate contains as much Nourishment as a Pound of Beef. +As much out of the way as this Assertion seems to be, one may easily +conceive, that any Aliment is capable of yielding more plentiful +Nourishment, if compar'd with any other, not only in respect to the +Quantity, but also with relation to the Time that the Stomach takes to +digest it. + +Physicians are not agreed about the Causes of Digestion, but are divided +into two Opinions, each of which is supported by the Writings of very +eminent Authors; convinced of my own Inability to decide the +Controversy, which also requires a large Field to expatiate in, I shall +not undertake to defend either Fermentation or Trituration: But it will +be sufficient to say, in two Words, that these Opinions are not +absolutely incompatible[1]: it perhaps will not be difficult to make a +sort of an Alliance or Agreement between them, by uniting whatever is +plain and evident in the two Systems, and rejecting what is otherwise; +and from hence form a third, which will be nothing but the Union of the +uncontested Parts of the other two. + +These two Causes undoubtedly concur in the Alteration that the Aliment +undergoes in the Mouth; for the _Saliva_ that mixes with it in +Mastication, and dilutes it, cannot be deny'd to be an admirable +Ferment[2]; and the Tongue which moves it, and the Teeth which grind it, +and break it, must be own'd to be the first Instruments of Trituration. + +Now since Nature is commonly uniform in her Operations, and since there +is a great deal of reason to suppose that Nature compleats Digestion by +the same means that she has begun it, let us suppose it is really so for +a Moment, and apply it to the present Subject, and then we shall see by +what Evidence Chocolate ought to be of an easy Digestion. + +In the first place, bitter and alkaline Substances, such as these +Kernels, are stomachick and analogous to the _Saliva_ and the Ferment +which dissolves the Aliment in the Stomach; how then can it be of hard +Digestion with these Qualities? + +In the second place, if one considers attentively the Kernels as they +are roasted, broke, and ground extremely fine upon a Stone, afterwards +melted and dissolved in boiling Liquor, which serves as a Vehicle for +it; it then seems very likely that the Stomach will not have much Labour +left to do. In short, by it Digestion is more than half finished. + +Experience confirms these Reasonings very much, for the Digestion of +Chocolate is soon brought about without Trouble, without Difficulty, and +without any sensible rising of the Pulse; the Stomach very far from +making use of its Strength, acquires new Force. And I can farther say, +upon my own Knowledge, that I have seen several Persons who had but weak +Digestion, if not quite spoiled, who have been entirely recovered by the +frequent Use of Chocolate. + + +SECT. III. + +Chocolate speedily repairs the dissipated Spirits and decay'd +Strength. + +If Chocolate did not produce this Effect, but only as it is very +nourishing, it would but have this Property in common with the most +juicy Aliments, and such as are most proper to furnish a good Quantity +of Blood and Plenty of Spirits: but its Effects are far more speedy; for +if a Person, for Example, fatigued with long and hard Labour, or with a +violent Agitation of Mind, takes a good Dish of Chocolate, he shall +perceive almost instantly, that his Faintness shall cease, and his +Strength shall be recovered, when Digestion is hardly begun. This Truth +is confirmed by Experience, tho' not so easily explained by Reasoning, +because Chocolate sensibly appears to be soft, heavy, and very little +disposed by any active Quality to put the Spirits in motion; however, +being resolved to neglect nothing that is likely to unfold the Cause of +an Effect so wonderful, I undertook one day the _Chymical Analysis_ of +Chocolate, and altho' prejudiced that I should discover nothing this way +but a superficial Knowledge, yet I was willing to flatter myself that +my Enquiry would not be wholly fruitless. + +I cleansed sixteen Ounces of Kernels without burning them, I ground them +in a Marble Mortar, and afterwards put them in a Glass Retort well +luted; I placed it in a Reverberatory Furnace, and fixed to it a large +Receiver; and after having luted the Joints well, I gave it the first +Degree of Fire. + +The first that ascended was pure Phlegm, which dropt for about two +Hours; a little white unctuous Matter swam on the top of it. + +The Fire being augmented, the Drops became red, and congealed as they +fell into the Receiver; this lasted about two Hours. + +The Fire being again augmented, the Receiver was filled with white +Clouds, which I saw resolve into a kind of Dew, white and unctuous, +which was partly Spirit, and partly a white Oil; the red Drops however +continued to the End, which was about two Hours and a half. + +This Operation let me know that Chocolate contains two kinds of Oil; the +one Red and Fixed, which congealed it self on the side of the Vessel; +and the other White and Volatile, which proceeded from the white Clouds, +and resolved itself on the other side of the Receiver. + +On the Morrow after, having unluted the Receiver, and having placed it +_in Balneo Mariae_, to melt the congealed Matter, I was agreeably +surpriz'd to see the Vessel immediately fill'd with white Clouds: I very +much admired the Volatility of this Unctuosity, and I was fully +convinced, that Chocolate contained that _volatile Oil_ so highly +esteemed in Medicine, and that one need not go farther to seek the Cause +of the speedy Reparation of the fainting Spirits; which is confirmed by +the daily Experience of those that use Chocolate. + +Having separated the Spirit by filtring through brown Paper, I divided +the butirous Matter into two Parts: I put one, without any Addition, +into a little Glass Cucurbit, which I placed in a Sand-Heat to rectify +it, and by this Operation I got an Oil of an Amber Colour, swimming upon +a little Phlegm, or Spirit[3]. + +I melted the remaining Part, and having incorporated it with quick Lime, +I put it into a little Glass Retort luted, and put Fire to it by +degrees. There first came over a clear Oil, the white Clouds succeeded, +and at length the reddish Butter. Having unluted the Recipient, and put +all in a little Cucurbit in a Sand-Heat, the white Clouds yielded an +Oil of an Amber Colour; and having augmented the Fire, there came over a +little red Oil, but no Spirit. + +The Amber-coloured Oil is nothing else but the white volatile Oil, +coloured a little by the Violence of the Fire: As for the red Oil, it +seems to be the Remainder of the red Butter, fit to be exalted. These +two Oils will not mix together; for the red, more fixed than the other, +always gets to the bottom. Mr. Boyle[54] said he extracted from Human +Blood, two Oils very like those above mentioned; and this Conformity of +Substances, very much convinces me of the great Analogy I always +supposed to be between Chocolate and Human Blood. + +As for the Spirit, it has nothing very disagreeable either in Taste or +Smell, it does not sensibly ferment with Alkalies, nor alters the Colour +of blue Paper; after some time, it grows a little acid, and tastes a +little tartish. + +Having calcined the _Caput Mortuum_, which is of a violet Colour and +filtred and evaporated the _Lixivium_, as is usual; I got nothing from +it but a kind of Cynder, a little saltish, and in so small a quantity, +that I did not give myself the trouble to reiterate the Calcination, +Dissolution, Filtration, and Evaporation; for I should hardly have got +five or six Grains of fixed purified Salt. + +I curiously observed, that neither in the Heads, nor in the Receivers, +there did appear any signs of a volatile Salt: However, _M. Lemery_ +assures us[55], that it contains a good deal; but it is plain he took +his Opinion upon trust, for had he made the Experiment, he is too +ingenious to be mistaken. + +One may then conclude from these two Observations, That Chocolate is a +mix'd Body, that has the least Quantity of Salt enters its Composition. + + +SECT. IV. + +Chocolate is very proper to preserve Health, and to prolong the Life of + Old Men. + +Before Chocolate was known in _Europe_, good old Wine was called the +Milk of old Men; but this Title is now apply'd with greater reason to +Chocolate, since its Use has become so common, that it has been +perceived that Chocolate is, with respect to them, what Milk is to +Infants. In reality, if one examines the Nature of Chocolate, a little +with respect to the Constitution of aged Persons, it seems as though the +one was made on purpose to remedy the Defects of the other, and that it +is truly the _Panacea_ of old Age. + +Our Life, as a famous Physician[56] observes, is, as it were, a +continual growing dry; but yet this kind of natural Consumption is +imperceptible to an advanced Age: when the radical Moisture is consumed +more sensibly, then the more balmy and volatile Parts of the Blood are +dissipated by little and little, the Salts disengaging from the +Sulphurs, manifest themselves, the Acid appears, which is the fruitful +Source of Chronick Diseases. The Ligaments, the Tendons, and the +Cartilages have scarce any of the Unctuosity left, which render'd them +so supple and so pliant in Youth. The Skin grows wrinkled as well within +as without; in a word, all the solid Parts grow dry or bony. + +One may say that Nature has formed Chocolate with every Vertue proper to +remedy these Inconveniences. The volatile Sulphur with which it abounds, +is proper to supply the Place of that which the Blood loses every day +through Age, it blunts and sheaths the Points of the Salts, and restores +the usual Softness to the Blood, like as Spirit of Wine united with +Spirit of Salt, makes a soft Liquor of a violent Corrosive. This same +sulphurous Unctuosity at the same time spreads itself in the solid +Parts, and gives them, in some sense, their natural Suppleness; it +bestows on the Membranes, the Tendons, the Ligaments, and the +Cartilages, a kind of Oil which renders them smooth and flexible. Thus +the _Equilibrium_ between the Fluids and the Solids is in some measure +re-establish'd, the Wheels and Springs of our Machine mended, Health is +preserved, and Life prolonged. These are not the Consequences of +Philosophical Reflections, but of a thousand Experiments which mutually +confirm each other; among a great Number of which the following alone +shall suffice. + + There lately died at _Martinico_ a Counsellor about a hundred Years + old, who, for thirty Years past, lived on nothing but Chocolate and + Biscuit. He sometimes indeed had a little Soop at Dinner, but never + any Fish, Flesh, or other Victuals: He was, nevertheless, so + vigorous and nimble, that at fourscore and five, he could get on + horseback without Stirrups. + +Chocolate is not only proper to prolong the Life of aged People, but +also of those whose Constitution is lean and dry, or weak and +cacochimical, or who use violent Exercises, or whose Employments oblige +them to an intense Application of Mind, which makes them very faintish: +to all these it agrees perfectly well, and becomes to them an altering +Diet. + +On the contrary, I would not counsel the daily Use of it to such who are +very fat, or who are wont to drink a good deal of Wine, and live upon a +juicy Diet, or who sleep much, and use no Exercise at all: In a word, +who lead a delicate, sedentary, and indolent Life, such as a great many +People of Condition at _Paris_ are used to. Such Bodies as these, full +of Blood and Juice, have no need of additional Nourishment, and the +Diet will fit them better which is mentioned in Ecclesiast. _Plentiful +Feeding brings Diseases, and Excess hath killed Numbers; but the +temperate Man prolongs his Days[59]._ + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[1] The _Translator_ of this Treatise, who is a Physician, thinks it +proper to observe, that the Opinions about Digestion, are deficiently +related by our Author; for they are chiefly four, _Trituration_, +_Fermentation_, _Heat_, and by a _Menstruum_, which are so far from +being incompatible, that three of them necessarily concur to promote +Digestion; to wit, _Heat_, and a _Menstruum_ or _Liquor_, and +_Trituration_, or the Motion or rubbing of the Coats of the Stomach: For +it is plain, if the two former are absent, there can be no Digestion, +and without doubt the last does assist, but which is the principal, I +shall not take upon me to determine. + +[2] Our Author seems here either to mistake _Ferment_ for _Menstruum_, +or to make them synonymous Terms: With this Allowance, his Reasoning is +undoubtedly just; but as for a Ferment, in the usual Sense of that Word, +it may justly be questioned whether there be any such in a Human Body. + +[3] Our Author seems to make Phlegm and Spirit synonymous Terms in +Chymistry. + +[54] Pluribus abhinc Annis cum Sanguinem conveniente admodum +digestione, praeparassem, & solicite distillatos Liquores supereffluentes +flamma lampadis rectificassem: Inter alia duo obtinui olea diversi +omnino Coloris, quorum alterum Flavedinem, aut pallorem Succini, alterum +vero intensissimam Rubedinem imitabatur; illud autem ingeniosis etiam, +lynceisq; Spectatoribus, miraculi instar erat, quod licet ambo haec Olea +ab eodem sanguine emanassent, forentq; pura satis & limpida, non tantum +distinctis in Massis sibi invicem supra innatarent, sed si agitatione +commiscerentur, paulatim sese mutuo iterum extricarent, ut Oleum & Aqua. +_Historia Sanguinis Humani._ + +[55] Traite de Drogues, _Pag. 127_. + +[56] Baglivius in Edit. Lugd. 1709. _Pag. 414._ Vivere enim nostrum +siccessere est. + +[59] _Chap._ xxxvii. _V._ 33 & 34. In multis Escis erit Infirmitas, +propter crapulam multi obierunt: Qui autem abstinens est, adjiecit +Vitam. + + + + + + +THE +Natural HISTORY +OF +_CHOCOLATE_. + +PART III. + +Of the Uses of Chocolate. + + +The common Uses of Chocolate may be reduced to three: It is put in +Confections; it is used in Chocolate, properly so call'd; and there is +an Oil drawn from it, to which they give the Name of Butter. I shall +treat of them distinctly, in the three following Chapters. + + + + +CHAP. I + +Of Chocolate in Confections. + + +They chuse _Cocao-Nuts_ that are half ripe, and take out the Kernels one +by one, for fear of spoiling them; they then lay them to soak for some +Days in Spring Water, which they take care to change Morning and +Evening: afterwards, having taken them out and wiped them, they lard +them with little Bits of Citron-Bark and Cinnamon, almost as they make +the Nuts of _Rouen_. + +In the mean time, they prepare a Syrup of the finest Sugar, but very +clear; that is to say, wherein there is but little Sugar: and after it +has been clarified and purified, they take it boiling-hot off the Fire, +and put in the _Cocao-Kernels_, and let them lie 24 Hours. They repeat +this Operation six or seven times, encreasing every time the Quantity of +Sugar, without putting it on the Fire, or doing any thing else to it: +last of all, they boil another Syrup to the Consistence of Sugar, and +pour it on the Kernels well wiped and put in a clean earthen Pot; and +when the Syrup is almost cold, they mix with it some Drops of the +Essence of Amber. + +When they would have these in a dry Form, they take them out of the +Syrup; and after it is well drained from them, they put them into a +Bason full of a very strong clarify'd Syrup, then they immediately put +it in a Stove, or Hot-House, where they candy it. + +This Confection, which nearly resembles the Nuts of _Rouen_, is +excellent to strengthen the Stomach without heating it too much; for +this reason, they may safely be given to those who are ill of a Fever. + + + + +CHAP. II. + +Of Chocolate, properly so called. + + +In treating of this Liquor, we have two things to examine: The First is, +the Original of Chocolate, and the different Manner of preparing it: The +Second, the Medicinal Uses that it is proper for; which shall be the +Subject of the two following Sections. + + +SECT. I + +Of the Original of Chocolate, and the different Manners of preparing + it. + +Chocolate is originally an _American_ Drink, which the _Spaniards_ found +very much in use at _Mexico_, when they conquer'd it, about the Year +1520. + +The _Indians_, who have used this Drink time out of mind, prepared it +without any great Art; they roasted their Kernels in earthen Pots, then +ground them between two Stones, diluted them with hot Water, and +season'd them with _Pimento_[1]: those who were more curious, added +_Achiota_[2] to give it a Colour, and [3]_Attolla_ to augment its +Substance. All these things joined together, gave to the Composition so +strange a Look, and so odd a Taste, that a _Spanish_ Soldier said, it +was more fit to be thrown to Hogs[4], than presented to Men; and that +he could never have accustomed himself to it, if the want of Wine had +not forced him to it, that he might not always be obliged to drink +nothing but Water. + +The _Spaniards_[5] taught by the _Mexicans_, and convinced by their +own Experience, that this Drink, as rustick as it appeared to them, +nevertheless yielded very wholesome Nourishment; try'd to make it more +agreeable by the Addition of Sugar, some Oriental Spices, and Things +that grew there, which it will be needless to mention, because the Names +of them are not so much as known here, and because of so many +Ingredients, there is none continued down to us but _Vanilla_; in like +manner, that Cinnamon[6] is the only Spice which has had general +Approbation, and remains in the Composition of Chocolate. + +_Vanilla_ is a Cod of a brown Colour and delicate Smell; it is flatter +and longer than our [_French_] Beans, it contains a luscious Substance, +full of little black shining Grains. They must be chosen fresh, full, +and well grown, and care must be taken that they are not smeared with +Balsam, nor put in a moist Place. + +The agreeable Smell, and exquisite Taste that they communicate to +Chocolate, have prodigiusly recommended it; but long Experience having +taught that it heats very much, its Use is become less frequent, and +those who prefer their Health more than pleasing their Senses, abstain +from it entirely. In _Spain_ and _Italy_, Chocolate prepared without +_Vanilla_, is called at present _Chocolate of Health_; and in the +_French_ Islands of _America_, where _Vanilla_ is neither scarce nor +dear, as in _Europe_, they do not use it at all, though they consume as +much Chocolate there as in any other Place in the World. + +However, a great many People are prejudiced in favour of _Vanilla_, and +that I may pay a due Deference to their Judgments, I shall employ +_Vanilla_ in the Composition of _Chocolate_, in the best Method and +Quantity, as it appears to me; I say, as it appears to me, because there +are an infinite Variety of Tastes, and every one expects that we should +have regard to his, and one Person is for adding what the other rejects. +Besides, when it is agreed upon what things to put in, it is not +possible to hit upon Proportions that will be universally approved; it +will therefore be sufficient for me to make choice of such Things as the +Majority are agreed upon, and consequently which are agreeable to the +Tastes of most. + +When the Chocolate Paste is made pretty fine upon a Stone, as I have +already explain'd, they add Sugar powdered and passed through a fine +Searce; the true Proportion is the same Weight of Sugar as of Kernels, +but it is common to put a quarter part less of the former, that it may +not dry the Paste too much, nor make it too susceptible of Impressions +from the Air, and more subject to be eaten by Worms. But this fourth +Part is again supply'd, when it is made into a Liquor to drink. + +The Sugar being well mix'd with the Paste, they add a very fine Powder +made of _Vanilla_ and _Cinnamon_ powdred and searced together. They mix +all over again upon the Stone very well, and then put it in Tin Moulds, +of what Form you please, where it grows as hard as before. Those that +love Perfumes, pour a little Essence of Amber on it before they put it +in the Moulds. + +When the Chocolate is made without _Vanilla_, the Proportion of Cinnamon +is two Drams to a Pound of Paste; but when _Vanilla_ is used, it should +be less by one half. As for the _Vanilla_, the Proportion is arbitrary; +one, two, or three Cods, and sometimes more, to a Pound, according to +every one's Fancy. + +Those that make Chocolate for Sale, that they may be thought to have put +in a good deal of _Vanilla_, put in Pepper, Ginger, _&c._ There are even +some People so accustomed to these Tastes, that they will not have it +otherwise; but these Spices serving only to inflame the Blood, and heat +the Body, prudent People take care to avoid this Excess, and will not +use any Chocolate whose Composition they are ignorant of. + +_Chocolate_ made after this manner, has this Advantage, that when a +Person is obliged to go from Home, and cannot stay to have it made into +Drink, he may eat an Ounce of it, and drinking after it, leave the +Stomach to dissolve it. + +In the _Antilloes_ they make Cakes of the Kernels only, without any +Addition, as I have taught at the End of the first Part of this +Treatise; and when they would make Chocolate of them, they proceed in +the following Manner. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[1] [2] [3] See the Remarks 8, 9, and 10. + +[4] Porcorum ea verius Colluvies quam hominum Potio. _Benzo_ apud +_Clusium_ Exoticorum Lib. Cap. 28. + +[5] Haec olim Cocolatis erant Exordia & Artis prima Rudimenta. _P. Thomae +Strozzae_ de Mentis potio. + +[6] See the 11th Remark. + + +The Method of making Chocolate after the Manner of the _French_ Islands +in _America_. + +They scrape off with a Knife from these Cakes aforesaid[1], what +Quantity they please, (for Instance, four large Spoonfuls, which weigh +about an Ounce) and mix with it two or three Pinches of powder'd +Cinnamon finely searced, and about two large Spoonfuls of Sugar in +Powder[2]. + +They put this Mixture into a Chocolate-Pot with a new-laid Egg[3], +both White and Yolk; then mix all well together with the Mill, and bring +it to the Consistence of Liquid Honey, upon which they afterwards pour +boiling Liquor[4], (Milk or Water, as is liked best) at the same time +using the Mill that they may be well incorporated together. + +Afterwards they put the Chocolate-Pot on the Fire, or in a Kettle of +boiling Water; and when the Chocolate rises, they take it off, and +having well mill'd it, they pour it into the Dishes. To make the Taste +more exquisite, one may, before it is poured out, add a Spoonful of +Orange-Flower Water, wherein a Drop or two of Essence of Amber has been +put. + +This Manner of making Chocolate has several Advantages above any other, +and which render it preferable to them all. + +In the first place, one may assert, that being well managed, it has a +very agreeable Smell, and a peculiar Delicacy in the Taste; besides, it +passes very easily off the Stomach, nor leaves any Settling either in +the Chocolate-Pot, or in the Dishes. + +In the second place, one has the Satisfaction to prepare it one's self +to one's own Taste, to encrease or diminish at pleasure the Quantities +of Sugar or Cinnamon, and to add or leave out the Orange-Flower Water, +or Essence of Amber; and, in a word, to make any other Alteration that +shall be most agreeable. + +In the third place, they make no Additions that destroy the good +Qualities of the Kernels; it is so temperate, that it may be taken at +all Times, and by all Ages, in Summer as well as in Winter, without +fearing the least Inconveniency: Whereas _Chocolate_ season'd with +_Vanilla_, and other hot and biting Ingredients, cannot but be very +pernicious, especially in Summer, to young People, and to dry +Constitutions. The Glass of cold Water that they have introduced to +drink before it, or after it, only serves to palliate the Effects for a +Time; for the Heat that attends it, will manifest itself in the Blood +and _Viscera_, when the Water is drain'd off and gone, by the ordinary +ways. + +In the fourth place, a Dish is so cheap, as not to come to above a +Penny. If Tradesmen and Artizans were once aware of it, there are few +who would not take the Advantage of so easy a Method of Breakfasting so +agreeably, at so small a Charge, and to be well supported till +Dinner-time, without taking any other Sustenance, Solid or Liquid. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[1] Or rather grate it with a flat Grater, when the Cakes are so dry +that they will not be so easily scraped with a Knife. + +[2] Because if it was in a Lump, it would weigh more than double the +Quantity of scraped Chocolate. + +[3] The oily Parts of the Chocolate would not readily unite with the +aqueous or watry Parts of the Liquor, without the Intervention of the +Egg, which serves as a common Bond, without which this Drink would not +have a good Head. + +[4] The Proportion of Liquor should be about eight Ounces, or half a +Pint, to one Ounce of Chocolate. + + +SECT. II. + +Of the Uses that may be made of Chocolate with relation to Medicine. + +I have always imagined it would be a very great Advantage to Physick, if +Medicines could be administred to sick People under an agreeable Form, +and a familiar Taste; and the Artifice itself of giving any thing under +the appearance and name of something that is delicate, is not without +its Benefit: People afflicted with Distempers, have enough to do to +support their Pains, without the Inconveniency of distastful Remedies; +however, it would be no small matter to spare them the Aversion they +have to every thing that is called a Medicine; and when there is a +Necessity for such, Chocolate may serve for very proper Diet, and an +excellent Vehicle, wherein to take a Medicine at the same time. + +These have been my Thoughts for some Time, and I can affirm that a happy +Success has often confirm'd my Opinion. I could wish that this Essay, +imperfect as it is, might serve to waken the Attention of some ingenious +Physician, who would give himself the trouble to handle this Matter +with greater Accuracy than my small Penetration will permit me to do. + +1. How many People neglect to purge themselves, and are so obstinate as +to refuse to do it, when they have the greatest need of it, and this +because of the great Distaste they have for ordinary Medicines? Will it +not be of the greatest Service to teach them to purge themselves after a +delightful Method, and even, if it was necessary, to purge them without +their knowledge? To do this, you need only mix 20 or 26 Grains of +_Jalap_ in Powder, (more or less, according to the Age and Strength of +the Person) with so much Powder of Cinnamon as is common for a Dish of +Chocolate, and to give this Dish as if it were ordinary Chocolate. I +have had great Experience of this, it is a good Purge without Griping; +several have mistaken the Effect for the Benefit of Nature only, being +entirely ignorant of the officious Deceit which I made use of for their +sakes. What Advantages may not there be drawn from this Method of +Purging apply'd to Children, who are so backward to take any thing that +has the least ill Taste? + +2. The Preparations of the _Cortex_, both Galenical and Chymical, have +not succeeded. Its Infusion in Wine, heretofore so much cry'd up, +contains but a part of the Vertue; for the _Faeces_, or the Bark that +remains at the bottom of the Bottle, has Strength enough to cure the +intermitting Fever. Thus after a thousand fruitless Trials, it is now +given again in Substance, reduced to a very fine Powder, which is either +made into _Bolus's_, or taken in Water. This Practice however is +attended with several Inconveniences; for a great many People, +especially Children, cannot swallow it in _Bolus's_. The same +Inconveniences follow the other Way of taking it in Water, and is +neither less troublesome, nor less nauseous. + +To avoid all this, a Dram of the _Cortex_ reduced to a fine[1] Powder, +and finely searced, and afterwards ground dry on a Porphyry, with the +Cinnamon designed for a Dish of Chocolate, and mixed in the Chocolate +with more Sugar than ordinary, may be taken without the least +Reluctancy, and, if necessary, without being perceived: The Person will +be nourished at the same time much better than with Broth, which is +easily corrupted by a feverish Stomach; neither will the Particles of +the _Cortex_ offend the Stomach, being wrapped up by the Unctuosity of +the Chocolate. I have cured Intermittent Fevers after this manner, nor +did it ever fail of good Success. + +3. The most elaborate Preparations of Steel, are not one jot the better +upon that account; the simple Filings have more Vertue than was ever +extorted from this Metal by any Preparation: there is nevertheless an +Inconveniency in the Use of them, because all the Particles of the Steel +uniting together, by their Weight, at the bottom of the Stomach, form a +kind of a Cake, which fatigues it, and makes it very uneasy. + +To remedy this, after the Filings have been ground into a very fine +Powder upon a Porphyry; you must mix it with the Cinnamon, when you make +your Chocolate, and it is certain that the Particles of the Steel will +be so divided and separated by the Agitation of the Mill, and so +entangled in the Chocolate, that there will be no danger of a future +Separation. Besides, the aromatick Particles of the Cinnamon, and the +alkaline ones of the Chocolate, will not a little add to the Strength +and Operation of this Remedy. + +4. After this manner may you mix with the Chocolate the Powders of +_Millepedes_, _Vipers_, _Earthworms_, the Livers and Galls of Eels, to +take away the distasteful Ideas that the Sick entertain against these +Remedies. + +5. The Use of Milk is a specifick Remedy for the Cure of several +Distempers, but by Misfortune there are but few Stomachs that can bear +it, and several Methods have been try'd to find out Help for this +Inconvenience. Without troubling myself to mention or examine them, will +it not be an easy and natural Method, to hinder the Milk from curdling +on the Stomach, to pour a hot Dish of Chocolate upon a Pint or Quart of +Milk? The butirous Parts of the Milk and Chocolate, are in reality +analogous to each other, and very proper to be united for the same +Purpose; and what is bitter and alkaline in the Chocolate, ought +necessarily to hinder the curdling of the Milk in the Stomach. It is +easy to confirm by Experience the Reasoning upon this sort of Chocolated +Milk. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[1] This, if true, overturns what has been said about the Mechanical +Cure of an Ague, by _Quincy_, who pretends that the Vertue of the Cortex +lies in its Texture, which this Preparation destroys. + + + + +CHAP. III. + +Of the Oil or Butter of Chocolate. + + +Chocolate Kernels are a Fruit very oleaginous, but the Oil is very +closely united with the other Principles, that it requires a great deal +of Labour to separate it, and to make it pure. The three common Ways to +extract Oils, are by Distillation, Expression, and Decoction; we reject +the first as being very imperfect, because the Violence of the Fire +alters the Nature of all Oils that are extracted that way. The Success +will answer no better by Expression, because that which is got will be +very impure and in very small Quantity. There then remains no way but by +Decoction, to draw out this essential Oil that we are in quest of, which +is the true and the only way, for it gives it in its utmost Purity +without any Alteration. + +They take Chocolate that is roasted, cleaned, and ground upon the Stone, +they throw the Paste into a Pan of boiling Water over a clear Fire; they +let it boil till almost all the Water is consumed, then they pour more +Water upon it till the Pan is full; the Oil ascends to the Top in +proportion as the Water cools, and grows to the Consistence of Butter. +If this Oil is not very white, it needs only be melted in a Pan full of +hot Water, where it will be disengaged and purified from the red and +terrestrial Particles that remain. + +At _Martinico_ this Oil is of the Consistence of Butter, but brought +into _France_, it becomes almost as hard as _Fromage_, or _French_ +Cheese, which melts nevertheless, and becomes liquid with a moderate +Heat: it has no very sensible Smell, and has the good fortune never to +grow rank; I have some of it now by me, that has been made this fifteen +Years. One Year, when Oil of Olives failed us, we used that of Chocolate +during the Time of _Lent_. It is very well tasted, and very far from +being hurtful; it contains the most essential and most healthful Parts +of the Chocolate. + +I had the Curiosity to examine it by a Chymical Analysis; I put three +Ounces into a little Glass Cucurbit placed in the Heat of Ashes, there +drop'd from it an oily Liquor, which congealed as it fell down, and +which did not differ from the Butter that I have described, but by a +light Impression made upon it by the Fire. I only observed, that there +was at the bottom of the Receiver, two or three Drops of a clear Liquor, +which tasted a little acid, but very agreeable. + +As this Oil is very anodyne, or an Easer of Pain, it is excellent, taken +inwardly, to cure Hoarseness, and to blunt the Sharpness of the Salts +that irritate the Lungs. In using, it must be melted and mix'd with a +sufficient Quantity of Sugar-Candy, and made into Lozenges, which must +be held in the Mouth as long as may be, before they melt quite away, +swallowing it down gently. + +Oil of Chocolate also taken seasonably, may be a wonderful Antidote +against corrosive Poisons. + +Its Vertues are no ways inferior, if used outwardly. + +1. It is the best and most natural _Pomatum_ for Ladies to _clear_ and +_plump_ the Skin when it is _dry_, _rough_, or _shrivel'd_, without +making it appear either _fat_ or _shining_. The _Spanish Women_ at +_Mexico_, use it very much, and it is highly esteem'd by them. If it is +thought too hard, it may be softened with Oil of Ben, or Oil of Sweet +Almonds, cold drawn. + +2. I am persuaded if the antient Custom of the _Greeks_ and _Romans_, of +anointing their Bodies with Oil, was revived, there is nothing would +answer their Expectations better, in augmenting the Strength and +Suppleness of their Muscles, and preserving them from Rheumatisms and +other torturing Pains. The leaving off this Practice, can be attributed +to nothing else but to the ill Smell and other Properties that attended +it; but if Oil of Chocolate was used instead of Oil of Olives, those +Inconveniences would be avoided, because it has no Smell, and dries +entirely into the Skin: nothing certainly would be more advantageous, +especially for aged Persons, than to renew this Custom, which has been +authorized by the Experience of Antiquity. + +3. Apothecaries ought to make use of this preferably to all others, as +the Basis of their Apoplectick Balsams; because all other Oils grow +rancid, and the Oil of Nutmegs, though whiten'd with Spirit of Wine, +always retains somewhat of its natural Smell, whereas Oil of Chocolate +is not subject to any of these Accidents. + +4. There is nothing so proper as this to keep Arms from rusting, because +it contains less Water than any other Oil made use of for that purpose. + +5. In the _American_ Islands they make use of this Oil to cure the +Piles; some use it without Mixture, others melt two or three Pounds of +Lead, and gathering the Dross, reduce it into fine Powder, and after it +is finely searced, incorporate it with this Oil, and make a Liniment of +it very efficacious for this Disease. Others for the same Intention mix +with this Oil the Powder of _Millepedes_, Sugar of Lead, _Pompholix_, +and a little _Laudanum_. + +Others use this Oil to ease Gout Pains, applying it hot to the Part, +with a Compress dip'd in it, which they cover with a hot Napkin. It may +be used after the same manner for the Rheumatism. + +6. _Lastly_, This Oil enters the Composition of the wonderful Plaister, +and the _Pomatum_ against Tetters. You will find their Description and +Properties among the Remarks at the End of this Treatise. + + + + + REMARKS + Upon some PLACES of the + TREATISE upon _Chocolate_. + + +REMARK I. + +The _Coco-tree_ is the same as the Palm-Tree so famous in the +_East-Indies_; its Fruit is call'd _Coco_, and care should be taken that +it be not confounded with _Cocao_. I make this Remark, because I find +that _William Dampier_ very improperly calls[a] _Coco's Cocao-Nuts_, +and the Tree that bears them a _Cocao_. + + +REMARK II. + +They have transported these great Trees from _St. Domingo_ to the _Vent +Islands_; their Leaves being almost round, are firm and so smooth, that +one would think they had been varnished. Their Fruit are sometimes as +large as one's Head, and their Skins very thick: When that is taken off, +the Pulp is very near the Colour, Smell, and Taste of our Apricocks; in +the Middle there are four Stones as big as Pullets Eggs, which are +difficult to separate from the Fruit. They are eaten with Wine and +Sugar; they make also very good Marmalade. + + +REMARK III. + +The _Calebash_-Tree is nigh as large as the Apple-Tree; it supplies the +Natives and Negroes with Buckets, Pots, Bottles, Dishes, Plates, and +several other Houshold Utensils. One cannot describe the Shape nor +Bigness of _Calebashes_, since there are some of the Size of a Pear, and +others as large as the greatest Citrons; and besides, there are long, +round, oval, and of all Fashions. The Fruit, which is green and smooth +upon the Tree, becomes grey as it dries; within, it is full of a white +Pulp, of no use at all, which they take out through a Hole; the Shells +they put to several Services. The Bark is about one Fifth of an Inch +thick, but very hard, and difficult to break. + + +REMARK IV. + +The _Papaw_-Tree is pretty uncommon as to its Make; its Trunk is strait, +but hollow, and of so tender a Wood, that it is easily cut down with a +Hedging-Bill; it is about four Yards high, without any Branches; its +Leaves much like those of our Fig-Trees, but twice as big, and are +joined to the top by Stalks of a Foot and a half long, and hollow like a +Reed. They being about thirty in number, grow at the top of the Trunk +all round about it; the lowest are ripest and largest, they are green, +and of the bigness of one's Fist. The Pulp, which is but half an Inch +thick, is like that of a Melon, but of a sweet faintish Taste; but it +makes a pretty good Confection, of a fine green Colour. + +There is another kind of _Papaw_-Tree, whose Fruit is as large as a +Melon, and better tasted than the former. + + +REMARK V. + +The _Banane_ is a sort of Plant, whose Root is a great round Bulb, from +whence proceeds a Trunk, green and smooth, six Feet high, as thick as +one's Thigh, and without any Leaf. On the top of it grow about twenty +Leaves, about a Foot and a half broad, and about five Feet long; but so +tender, that the Wind tears them from the Middle to the Sides, into +Slangs like Ribbons: From the Center of these Leaves grows a second +Trunk, more firm than the rest of the Plant: upon this grows a Cluster +of about forty or fifty _Bananes_, sometimes more, sometimes less. A +_Banane_ is a Fruit as thick as one's Arm, about a Foot long, and a +little crooked. They gather this Cluster green, and hang it up in the +Ceiling; and as the _Bananes_ grow yellow, or mellow, they gather them. +When this Cluster is taken away, the Plant withers, or they cut it down +at the Root; but for one Trunk lost, the Root sends forth five or six +more. + +Besides these _Bananes_, there is a Fruit call'd _Banane-Figs_; but the +Plants that produce them are very little different: The Figs are much +less than the _Bananes_, being but four or five Inches long. The Fig is +more delicious, but the _Banane_ is thought to be more wholesome, and +the Pulp more solid. They roast them upon a Grid-Iron, or bake them in +an Oven, they eat them with Sugar and the Juice of an Orange. The +_Banane_ done in a Stew-Pan in its own Juice, with Sugar and a little +Cinnamon, is excellent. + + +REMARK VI. + +_Manioc_ is a Shrub very crooked, and full of Knots, its Wood is tender +and brittle, and the Branches are easily broke off into Slips: There are +several and different Colours, some more forward and fruitful than +others. Commonly they are pluck'd up in a Year or thereabouts; and there +is found at every one, several plump Roots, without any sensible Fibres, +more or less thick, according to the Kind and the Goodness of the Soil. +These Roots are wash'd in a good deal of Water, to free them from the +Earth; and after they are scraped with a Knife like wild Turnips, they +_grate_ them; that is to say, they rub them hard with great Copper +Graters, which the _French_ call _Grages_, just as they do Quinces to +get out the Juice. This grated _Manioc_ is put in the Press in Sacks +made of coarse Hemp, or Rushes, to get out the superfluous Moisture, +which is not only unwholesome, but poisonous. This, thus press'd, they +take from the Sacks, and pass it through a coarse Sieve called +_Hibichet_; they afterwards bake it two several ways, to make what they +call _Cassave_, or Meal of _Manioc_. + +In the first place, when they would make the _Cassave_, they spread the +sifted _Manioc_ upon a Plate of Iron over a clear Fire, which they +tapping down with the Ball of their Hands, make a broad Cake about half +an Inch thick, and two Feet in diameter; and when it is baked on one +side, they turn it on the other: and if they would keep it any time, +they dry it in the Sun. + +In the second place, when they would make what they call the Meal, they +put the _Manioc_, grated, pressed, and sifted, as before, upon a great +Copper Plate four Feet in diameter, with a Brim five or six Inches high, +and placed upon a Brick Furnace: They stir it continually with a wooden +_Spatula_, that it may not stick and be baked all alike. This Meal +resembles Bread grosly crumbled, and may be kept a long while in a dry +Place. The Natives do not trouble themselves to make the Meal; they only +eat _Cassave_, which they bake every day, because, when it is hot, it +is more agreeable and palatable. + +If they leave the expressed Juice of _Manioc_ to settle, it lets fall a +_Faecula_ to the bottom, called _Moussache_, which they afterwards dry in +the Sun: it is as white as Snow, of which they make very good Cakes, +called in those Parts, _Craquelins_. + +The Laundresses use this _Faecula_ instead of Starch, to starch their +Linnen. Some Inhabitants mix one Third of this with two Thirds of +_French_ Meal, and make Bread that is very white, and well tasted. + + +REMARK VII. + +At first sight, one would take a _Balize_-Tree for a _Banane_, they are +so like each other: there is, however, this difference between them, +That the Leaves of the _Balize_-Tree are not so tender, and apt to be +tore; for this reason, they serve the Natives for Table-Cloths and +Napkins, as well as the Negroes, and some of the Planters that live in +the Woods. Sometimes they serve as Umbrella's to shade them from the +Sun, or Showers of Rain, that surprize them. + +The Hunters have great assistance from this Plant; for sometimes +finding themselves pressed with Thirst, in Places at some distance from +Rivers or Fountains, they give the Trunk of a _Balize_ a Slash with a +Knife, and immediately hold their Hat, or a Cup, which catches a clear, +good, and cool Water, even in the greatest Heat. + + +REMARK VIII. + +_Pimento_, called also _Jamaica-Pepper_, has been brought into _France_, +where it grows, as in _America_, in pyramidal Cods of three or four +Inches long: they are at first green, then yellow, afterwards red, and +last of all, black. They pickle them in Vinegar, as they do Capers and +little Cucumbers. There are in _America_ several other Kinds of +_Pimentoes_, and especially one that is round, and as red as a Cherry. +This is the hottest of all, it sets the Mouth all on fire; for which +reason it is called the mad _Pimento_. The Natives eat nothing without +_Pimento_, it is their universal Seasoning, it serves them instead of +Salt, and all Oriental Spices. + + +REMARK IX. + +_Achote_ is best known in _France_, under the Name of _Roucou_, and is a +sort of Red which the Dyers and Painters make use of. It is the +favourite Colour of the Savages, which they are very careful of planting +in their Gardens, that they may paint their Bodies every Morning, which +they call _Roucouing_. + +_Roucou_ is planted of a Kernel much after the same manner as the +_Cocao-Tree_. The Shrub that is most like it in _Europe_, is the +_Lilach_, or the _Arabian_ Bean. Its Leaves, of the Shape of a Heart, +are longish, pointed, and placed alternately; its Blossoms grow in +Bunches at the end of the Boughs, they are white, mix'd with Carnation, +like the Flowers of the wild Rose-Tree. In the middle, there is a Tuft +of yellow _Stamina_ with red Points; when these Blossoms fall off, there +appears tawny Buds, beset with fine Prickles: These Buds grow to be +Shells, which, when ripe, open on the upper side, and discover within, +two Rows of Pippins, almost like little Peas, cover'd with Vermilion, +which sticks to the Fingers, when touch'd, and leaves the Pippins quite, +when wash'd with warm Water. The Water being settled, they pour it off +gently by degrees, they dry the Colour in the Shade that fell to the +bottom of the Vessel; and this is the true _Roucou_, without any +Mixture. The Physicians in these Parts prescribe it to cut and attenuate +thick and tough Humours, which cause difficulty of Breathing, Retension +of Urine, and all sorts of Obstructions[89]. + + +REMARK X. + +_Atolla_ is a kind of Gruel which they make with Meal of _Maise_, (which +is the same as our _Indian_ Corn, or _Turkey_ Millet.) The _Mexicans_ +season it with _Pimento_; but the Nuns and _Spanish_ Ladies, instead of +_Pimento_, use Sugar, Cinnamon, perfumed Waters of Amber, Musk, _&c._ In +these Parts, they make the same Use of _Atolla_, as of the best Rice in +the _Levant_. + + +REMARK XI. + +One ought to chuse the smallest Cinnamon, the highest coloured, and of +the most biting Taste, as well as sweet and spicy, because a great Part +is full of Pieces, from whence they have drawn the Essence, and has +neither any Colour nor Taste, but that of the Wood. To help and amend +both, there needs only a Clove to be ground in the Mortar, with an Ounce +of Cinnamon. This Spice is best that comes from the _East-Indies_, it +has nothing of Acrid in it, and contains an oleous Volatile, which +agrees very well with that of Chocolate. Cinnamon also has always kept +its Place in all the Compositions of Chocolate. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[a] _New Voyage round the World_, Tom. 1. Chap. 10. + +[89] Thomas Gage, _Tom. 1. Part 2. Pag. 142_. + + + + + MEDICINES + In whose Composition + OIL or BUTTER + OF + _CHOCOLATE_ + Is made use of. + + +_The Wonderful Plaister for the Curing of all sorts of Ulcers._ + +Take _Oil-Olive_ a Pound, _Venetian Ceruss_, in Powder, half a Pound. + +Put them in a Copper Pan, or a glazed Earthen one, upon a clear moderate +Fire, stirring them continually with a wooden _Spatula_ till the +Mixture is become black, and almost of the Consistence of a Plaister, +(which you may know by letting fall two or three Drops upon a Pewter +Plate; for if they grow cold immediately, and do not stick to the +Fingers, when touch'd, it is done enough.) Then must be added, + + Of _Bees-Wax cut in little Bits_, an Ounce and a half. + + _Oil or Butter of Chocolate_, an Ounce. + + _Balsam Capivi_, an Ounce and a half. + +When they are all melted and mixed together, the Pan must be taken off +the Fire; and stirring constantly with the _Spatula_, you must add the +following Ingredients, reduced into a fine Powder separately, and then +well mixed together. + + _Lapis Calaminaris_, heated in the Fire, and then quenched in + Lime-Water, and ground upon a Porphyry, one Ounce. + + _Myrrh in Drops_, } + _Aloes Succotrine_, } of each two + _Round Birthwort_, } Drams. + _Florentine Orris_, } + + _Camphire_, a Dram. + +When they are all well incorporated together, they must cool a little, +and then be poured upon a Marble to be made into Rolls, after the +ordinary Manner. + + * * * * * + +I have seen such surprizing Effects from this Emplaister, that I am +almost backward to mention them, lest they should seem incredible. It +cures the most stubborn and inveterate Ulcers, provided the Bone is not +carious: for in this Case, lest you should lose your Labour, you must +begin with the Bone, and then apply the Plaister. The Place must be +dress'd Morning and Evening after it is clean'd with Lime Water, and +wiped well with a Linnen Cloth. + +The same Plaister may serve several Times, provided it be washed with +Lime Water, wiped with a Rag, and held to the Fire a Moment before it is +apply'd. + +I exhort charitable People to make this Plaister and give it to the +Poor, especially those that live in the Country; they will draw down a +Thousand Blessings in this Life, and the Lord will recompence them +hereafter. + + +_An excellent Pomatum for Ringworms, Tettars, Pimples, and other +Deformities of the Skin._ + +Take _Flowers_ of _Brimstone_[a], _Salt Petre_ purified, of each Half +an Ounce; good _White Precipitate_[b], two Drams; _Benzoin_ or +_Benjamin_, a Dram. + +Beat the _Benjamin_ and _Salt-Petre_ a good while in a Brass Mortar, +till they are reduced into a very fine Powder, then mix the Flower of +Brimstone and White Precipitate with them and keep this Powder for Use. + + * * * * * + +At _Martinico_ when I had occasion to make use of it, I incorporated it +with Butter of Chocolate; but in _France_, I substitute the best-scented +_Jessamin Pomatum_: This Smell, joined with that of Benjamin, corrects +the Smell of the Brimstone, which some Persons abhor. + +I cannot sufficiently recommend this _Pomatum_, which always succeeds +well, and I have often found it beneficial when every thing else fail'd. + +You must not wonder if on the first, and sometimes the second Day, the +Tettar seems more lively, or the Complection more dull; it is a sign +that the Malignity is drawn out, and that the Seeds of it are destroy'd: +you must therefore take heed of desisting, for the Skin in a little Time +will be render'd as even and smooth as you can desire. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[a] To wit, those that are made in _Holland_, if they can be got. + +[b] To know if the _Precipitate_ be good, you may do thus; Put a little +upon a live Coal, if it flies away, it is good; if it stays behind, it +is nothing but powder'd Ceruss, or some such thing. + + + + +_FINIS._ + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE NATURAL HISTORY OF CHOCOLATE*** + + +******* This file should be named 24588.txt or 24588.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/4/5/8/24588 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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