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diff --git a/24345.txt b/24345.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..063cd9c --- /dev/null +++ b/24345.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9121 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Boy's Voyage Round the World, by +The Son of Samuel Smiles + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Boy's Voyage Round the World + +Author: The Son of Samuel Smiles + +Editor: Samuel Smiles + +Release Date: January 17, 2008 [EBook #24345] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A BOY'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD *** + + + + +Produced by Thierry Alberto, Diane Monico, and The Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + + + + +A BOY'S VOYAGE +ROUND THE WORLD + + +EDITED +BY SAMUEL SMILES, LL.D. + +AUTHOR OF 'SELF-HELP,' ETC. + + +LONDON +JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET + +1905 + + +[Illustration: OUTWARD BOUND. _See_ p. 27.] + + + + +PREFACE. + + +I have had pleasure in editing this little book, not only because it +is the work of my youngest son, but also because it contains the +results of a good deal of experience of life under novel aspects, as +seen by young, fresh, and observant eyes. + +How the book came to be written is as follows: The boy, whose two +years' narrative forms the subject of these pages, was at the age of +sixteen seized with inflammation of the lungs, from which he was +recovering so slowly and unsatisfactorily, that I was advised by +London physicians to take him from the business he was then learning +in Yorkshire, and send him on a long sea voyage. Australia was +recommended, because of the considerable time occupied in making the +voyage by sailing ship, and also because of the comparatively genial +and uniform temperature while at sea. + +He was accordingly sent out to Melbourne by one of Money Wigram's +ships in the winter of 1868-9, with directions either to return by the +same ship or, if the opportunity presented itself, to remain for a +time in the colony. It will be found, from his own narrative that, +having obtained some suitable employment, he decided to adopt the +latter course; and for a period of about eighteen months he resided at +Majorca, an up-country township situated in the gold-mining district +of Victoria. + +When his health had become re-established, he was directed to return +home, about the beginning of the present year; and he resolved to make +the return voyage by the Pacific route, _via_ Honolulu and San +Francisco, and to proceed from thence by railway across the Rocky +Mountains to New York. + +While at sea, the boy kept a full log, intended for the perusal of his +relatives at home; and while on land, he corresponded with them +regularly and fully, never missing a mail. He had not the remotest +idea that anything which he saw and described during his absence would +ever appear in a book. But since his return, it has occurred to the +Editor of these pages that the information they contain will probably +be found interesting to a wider circle of readers than that to which +the letters were originally addressed; and in that belief, the +substance of them is here reproduced, the Editor's work having +consisted mainly in arranging the materials, leaving the writer to +tell his own story as much as possible in his own way, and in his own +words. + + S. S. + + _London, November_, 1871. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + PAGE +CHAPTER I. + +DOWN CHANNEL. 1 + +AT GRAVESEND--TAKING IN STORES--FIRST NIGHT ON BOARD--"THE +ANCHOR'S UP"--OFF BRIGHTON--CHANGE OF WIND--GALE +IN THE CHANNEL--THE ABANDONED SHIP--THE EDDYSTONE--PLYMOUTH +HARBOUR--DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND + + +CHAPTER II. + +FLYING SOUTH. 10 + +FELLOW-PASSENGERS--LIFE ON BOARD SHIP--PROGRESS OF THE +SHIP--HER HANDLING--A FINE RUN DOWN TO THE LINE--SHIP'S +AMUSEMENTS--CLIMBING THE MIZEN--THE CAPE DE VERD +ISLANDS--SAN ANTONIO + + +CHAPTER III. + +WITHIN THE TROPICS. 22 + +INCREASE OF TEMPERATURE--FLYING FISH--THE MORNING BATH +ON BOARD--PAYING "FOOTINGS"--THE MAJOR'S WONDERFUL +STORIES--ST. PATRICK'S DAY--GRAMPUSES--A SHIP IN +SIGHT--THE 'LORD RAGLAN'--RAIN-FALL IN THE TROPICS--TROPICAL +SUNSETS--THE YANKEE WHALER + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE 'BLUE JACKET.' 32 + +APRIL FOOLS' DAY--A SHIP IN SIGHT--THE 'PYRMONT'--THE +RESCUED 'BLUE JACKET' PASSENGERS--STORY OF THE BURNT +SHIP--SUFFERING OF THE LADY PASSENGERS IN AN OPEN +BOAT--THEIR RESCUE--DISTRESSING SCENE ON BOARD THE 'PYRMONT' + + +CHAPTER V. + +IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC. 41 + +PREPARING FOR ROUGH WEATHER--THE 'GEORGE THOMPSON' CLIPPER--A +RACE AT SEA--SCENE FROM 'PICKWICK' ACTED--FISHING FOR +ALBATROSS--DISSECTION AND DIVISION OF THE BIRD--WHALES--STRONG +GALE--SMASH IN THE CABIN--SHIPPING A GREEN SEA--THE SEA BIRDS +IN OUR WAKE--THE CROZET ISLANDS + + +CHAPTER VI. + +NEARING AUSTRALIA--THE LANDING. 54 + +ACTING ON BOARD--THE CYCLONE--CLEANING THE SHIP FOR +PORT--CONTRARY WINDS--AUSTRALIA IN SIGHT--CAPE OTWAY--PORT +PHILLIP HEADS--PILOT TAKEN ON BOARD--INSIDE THE +HEADS--WILLIAMSTOWN--SANDRIDGE--THE LANDING + + +CHAPTER VII. + +MELBOURNE. 60 + +FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF MELBOURNE--SURVEY OF THE CITY--THE +STREETS--COLLINS STREET--THE TRAFFIC--NEWNESS AND YOUNGNESS +OF MELBOURNE--ABSENCE OF BEGGARS--MELBOURNE AN ENGLISH +CITY--THE CHINESE QUARTER--THE PUBLIC LIBRARY--PENTRIDGE +PRISON--THE YARRA RIVER--ST. KILDA--SOCIAL EXPERIENCES IN +MELBOURNE--A MARRIAGE BALL--MELBOURNE LADIES--VISIT TO A +SERIOUS FAMILY + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +UP COUNTRY. 76 + +OBTAIN A SITUATION IN AN UP-COUNTRY BANK--JOURNEY BY +RAIL--CASTLEMAINE--FURTHER JOURNEY BY COACH--MARYBOROUGH--FIRST +SIGHT OF THE BUSH--THE BUSH TRACKS--EVENING PROSPECT OVER THE +COUNTRY--ARRIVAL AT MY DESTINATION + + +CHAPTER IX. + +MAJORCA. 85 + +MAJORCA FOUNDED IN A RUSH--DESCRIPTION OF A RUSH--DIGGERS +CAMPING OUT--GOLD-MINING AT MAJORCA--MAJORCA HIGH +STREET--THE PEOPLE--THE INNS--THE CHURCHES--THE BANK--THE +CHINAMEN--AUSTRALIA THE PARADISE OF WORKING MEN--"SHOUTING" +FOR DRINKS--ABSENCE OF BEGGARS--NO COPPERS UP COUNTRY + + +CHAPTER X. + +MY NEIGHBOURHOOD AND NEIGHBOURS. 96 + +"DINING OUT"--DIGGERS' SUNDAY DINNER--THE OLD WORKINGS--THE +CHINAMEN'S GARDENS--CHINAMEN'S DWELLINGS--THE CEMETERY--THE +HIGH PLAINS--THE BUSH--A RIDE THROUGH THE BUSH--THE SAVOYARD +WOODCUTTER--VISIT TO A SQUATTER + + +CHAPTER XI. + +AUSTRALIAN WINTER--THE FLOODS. 107 + +THE VICTORIAN CLIMATE--THE BUSH IN WINTER--THE EUCALYPTUS +OR AUSTRALIAN GUM-TREE--BALL AT CLUNES--FIRE IN THE MAIN +STREET--THE BUGGY SAVED--DOWN-POUR OF RAIN--GOING HOME BY +WATER--THE FLOODS OUT--CLUNES SUBMERGED--CALAMITY AT +BALLARAT--DAMAGE DONE BY THE FLOOD--THE CHINAMEN'S GARDENS +WASHED AWAY + + +CHAPTER XII. + +SPRING, SUMMER, AND HARVEST. 116 + +SPRING VEGETATION--THE BUSH IN SPRING--GARDEN FLOWERS--AN +EVENING WALK--AUSTRALIAN MOONLIGHT--THE HOT NORTH WIND--THE +PLAGUE OF FLIES--BUSH FIRES--SUMMER AT CHRISTMAS--AUSTRALIAN +FRUITS--ASCENT OF MOUNT GREENOCK--AUSTRALIAN WINE--HARVEST--A +SQUATTER'S FARM--HARVEST HOME CELEBRATION--AURORA +AUSTRALIS--AUTUMN RAINS + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +BUSH ANIMALS--BIRDS--SNAKES. 131 + +THE 'POSSUM--A NIGHT'S SPORT IN THE BUSH--MUSQUITOES--WATTLE +BIRDS--THE PIPING-CROW--"MINERS"--PAROQUET-HUNTING--THE +SOUTHERN CROSS--SNAKES--MARSUPIAL ANIMALS + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +GOLD-BUYING AND GOLD-MINING. 140 + +HOW THE GOLD IS FOUND--GOLD-WASHING--QUARTZ-CRUSHING--BUYING +GOLD FROM CHINAMEN--ALLUVIAL COMPANIES--BROKEN-DOWN +MEN--UPS AND DOWNS IN GOLD-MINING--VISIT TO A GOLD +MINE--GOLD-SEEKING--DIGGERS' TALES OF LUCKY FINDS + + +CHAPTER XV. + +ROUGH LIFE AT THE DIGGINGS--"STOP THIEF!" 153 + +GOLD-RUSHING--DIGGERS' CAMP AT HAVELOCK--MURDER OF +LOPEZ--PURSUIT AND CAPTURE OF THE MURDERER--THE THIEVES +HUNTED FROM THE CAMP--DEATH OF THE MURDERER--THE +POLICE--ATTEMPTED ROBBERY OF THE COLLINGWOOD BANK--ANOTHER +SUPPOSED ROBBERY--"STOP THIEF!"--SMART USE OF THE TELEGRAPH + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +PLACES ABOUT. 163 + +VISIT TO BALLARAT--THE JOURNEY BY COACH--BALLARAT +FOUNDED ON GOLD--DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN--BALLARAT +"CORNER"--THE SPECULATIVE COBBLER--FIRE BRIGADES--RETURN +JOURNEY--CRAB-HOLES--THE TALBOT BALL--THE TALBOT +FETE--THE AVOCA RACES--SUNRISE IN THE BUSH + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +CONCLUSION OF MAJORCAN LIFE. 179 + +VICTORIAN LIFE ENGLISH--ARRIVAL OF THE HOME MAIL--NEWS OF +THE FRANCO-GERMAN WAR--THE GERMAN SETTLERS IN MAJORCA--THE +SINGLE FRENCHMAN--MAJORCAN PUBLIC TEAS--THE CHURCH--THE +RANTERS--THE TEETOTALLERS--THE COMMON SCHOOL--THE ROMAN +CATHOLICS--COMMON SCHOOL FETE AND ENTERTAINMENT--THE +MECHANICS' INSTITUTE--FUNERAL OF THE TOWN CLERK--DEPARTURE +FROM MAJORCA--THE COLONY OF VICTORIA + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +ROUND TO SYDNEY. 190 + +LAST CHRISTMAS IN AUSTRALIA--START BY STEAMER FOR SYDNEY--THE +'GREAT BRITAIN'--CHEAP TRIPS TO QUEENSCLIFFE--ROUGH +WEATHER AT SEA--MR. AND MRS. C. MATHEWS--BOTANY BAY--OUTER +SOUTH HEAD--PORT JACKSON--SYDNEY COVE--DESCRIPTION OF +SYDNEY--GOVERNMENT HOUSE AND DOMAIN--GREAT FUTURE EMPIRE OF +THE SOUTH + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +TO AUCKLAND, IN NEW ZEALAND. 202 + +LEAVING SYDNEY--ANCHOR WITHIN THE HEADS--TAKE IN MAILS +AND PASSENGERS FROM THE 'CITY OF ADELAIDE'--OUT TO SEA +AGAIN--SIGHT NEW ZEALAND--ENTRANCE TO AUCKLAND HARBOUR--THE +'GALATEA'--DESCRIPTION OF AUCKLAND--FOUNDING OF +AUCKLAND DUE TO A JOB--MAORI MEN AND WOMEN--DRIVE TO +ONEHUNGA--SPLENDID VIEW--AUCKLAND GALA--NEW ZEALAND +DELAYS--LEAVE FOR HONOLULU + + +CHAPTER XX. + +UP THE PACIFIC. 212 + +DEPARTURE FOR HONOLULU--MONOTONY OF A VOYAGE BY +STEAM--DESAGREMENS--THE "GENTLEMEN" PASSENGERS--THE ONE +SECOND CLASS "LADY"--THE RATS ON BOARD--THE SMELLS--FLYING +FISH--CROSS THE LINE--TREATMENT OF NEWSPAPERS ON +BOARD--HAWAII IN SIGHT--ARRIVAL AT HONOLULU + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +HONOLULU AND THE ISLAND OF OAHU. 220 + +THE HARBOUR OF HONOLULU--IMPORTANCE OF ITS SITUATION--THE +CITY--CHURCHES AND THEATRES--THE POST OFFICE--THE +SUBURBS--THE KING'S PALACE--THE NUUANU VALLEY--POI--PEOPLE +COMING DOWN THE VALLEY--THE PALI--PROSPECT FROM THE +CLIFFS--THE NATIVES (KANAKAS)--DIVERS--THE WOMEN--DRINK +PROHIBITION--THE CHINESE--THEATRICALS--MUSQUITOES + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +HONOLULU TO SAN FRANCISCO. 237 + +DEPARTURE FROM HONOLULU--WRECK OF THE 'SAGINAW'--THE 'MOSES +TAYLOR'--THE ACCOMMODATION--THE COMPANY ON BOARD--BEHAVIOUR +OF THE SHIP--DEATH OF A PASSENGER--FEELINGS ON LANDING IN A +NEW PLACE--APPROACH THE GOLDEN GATE--CLOSE OF THE PACIFIC +LOG--FIRST SIGHT OF AMERICA + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +SAN FRANCISCO TO SACRAMENTO. 244 + +LANDING AT SAN FRANCISCO--THE GOLDEN CITY--THE STREETS--THE +BUSINESS QUARTER--THE CHINESE QUARTER--THE TOUTERS--LEAVE +SAN FRANCISCO--THE FERRY-BOAT TO OAKLAND--THE BAY OF SAN +FRANCISCO--LANDING ON THE EASTERN SHORE--AMERICAN RAILWAY +CARRIAGES--THE PULLMAN'S CARS--SLEEPING BERTHS--UNSAVOURY +CHINAMEN--THE COUNTRY--CITY OF SACRAMENTO + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +ACROSS THE SIERRA NEVADA. 255 + +RAPID ASCENT--THE TRESTLE-BRIDGES--MOUNTAIN +PROSPECTS--"PLACERS"--SUNSET--CAPE HORN--ALTA--THE SIERRAS +BY NIGHT--CONTRAST OF TEMPERATURES--THE SNOW-SHEDS--THE +SUMMIT--RENO--BREAKFAST AT HUMBOLDT--THE SAGE-BRUSH--BATTLE +MOUNT--SHOSHONIE INDIANS--TEN MILE CANYON--ELKO STATION--GREAT +AMERICAN DESERT--ARRIVAL AT OGDEN + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 265 + +START BY TRAIN FOR OMAHA--MY FELLOW-PASSENGERS--PASSAGE +THROUGH THE DEVIL'S GATE--WEBER CANYON--FANTASTIC +ROCKS--"THOUSAND MILE TREE"--ECHO CANYON--MORE +TRESTLE-BRIDGES--SUNSET AMIDST THE BLUFFS--A WINTRY NIGHT +BY RAIL--SNOW-FENCES AND SNOW-SHEDS--LARAMIE CITY--RED +BUTTES--THE SUMMIT AT SHERMAN--CHEYENNE CITY--THE WESTERN +PRAIRIE IN WINTER--PRAIRIE DOG CITY--THE VALLEY OF THE +PLATTE--GRAND ISLAND--CROSS THE NORTH FORK OF THE +PLATTE--ARRIVAL IN OMAHA + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +OMAHA TO CHICAGO. 275 + +OMAHA TERMINUS--CROSS THE MISSOURI--COUNCIL BLUFFS--THE +FOREST--CROSS THE MISSISSIPPI--THE CULTIVATED PRAIRIE--THE +FARMSTEADS AND VILLAGES--APPROACH TO CHICAGO--THE +CITY OF CHICAGO--ENTERPRISE OF ITS MEN--THE WATER TUNNELS +UNDER LAKE MICHIGAN--TUNNELS UNDER THE RIVER CHICAGO--UNION +OF LAKE MICHIGAN WITH THE MISSISSIPPI--DESCRIPTION OF THE +STREETS AND BUILDINGS OF CHICAGO--PIGS AND CORN--THE +AVENUE--SLEIGHING--THEATRES AND CHURCHES + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +CHICAGO TO NEW YORK. 287 + +LEAVE CHICAGO--THE ICE HARVEST--MICHIGAN CITY--THE +FOREST--A RAILWAY SMASHED--KALAMAZOO--DETROIT--CROSSING +INTO CANADA--AMERICAN MANNERS--ROEBLING'S SUSPENSION +BRIDGE--NIAGARA FALLS IN WINTER--GOAT ISLAND--THE +AMERICAN FALL--THE GREAT HORSE-SHOE FALL--THE RAPIDS +FROM THE LOVERS' SEAT--AMERICAN COUSINS--ROCHESTER--NEW +YORK--A CATASTROPHE--RETURN HOME + + +INDEX 301 + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. + + +The 'Yorkshire,' Outward Bound _Frontispiece_ + +Map of the Ship's Course, Plymouth to Melbourne _Page_ 50-51 + +View of Melbourne, Victoria 60 + +Map of the Gold-Mining District, Victoria 78 + +View of Sydney, Port Jackson 190 + +View of Auckland, New Zealand 202 + +Map of the Ship's Course up the Pacific 213 + +Maps of Auckland, and Sydney, Port Jackson 213 + +View of Honolulu, Sandwich Islands 220 + +Map of Oahu, Sandwich Islands 222 + +Maps of Atlantic and Pacific Railways 248-249; 276-277 + +View of Niagara Falls--American side 287 + + + + +ROUND THE WORLD. + +CHAPTER I. + +DOWN CHANNEL. + +AT GRAVESEND--TAKING IN STORES--FIRST NIGHT ON BOARD--"THE ANCHOR'S +UP"--OFF BRIGHTON--CHANGE OF WIND--GALE IN THE CHANNEL--THE ABANDONED +SHIP--THE EDDYSTONE--PLYMOUTH HARBOUR--DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND. + + +_20th February: At Gravesend._--My last farewells are over, my last +adieus are waved to friends on shore, and I am alone on board the ship +'Yorkshire,' bound for Melbourne. Everything is in confusion on board. +The decks are littered with stores, vegetables, hen-coops, sheep-pens, +and coils of rope. There is quite a little crowd of sailors round the +capstan in front of the cabin door. Two officers, with lists before +them, are calling over the names of men engaged to make up our +complement of hands, and appointing them to their different watches. + +Though the ship is advertised to sail this evening, the stores are by +no means complete. The steward is getting in lots of cases; and what a +quantity of pickles! Hens are coming up to fill the hen-coops. More +sheep are being brought; there are many on board already; and here +comes our milk-cow over the ship's side, gently hoisted up by a rope. +The animal seems amazed; but she is in skilful hands. "Let go!" calls +out the boatswain, as the cow swings in mid-air; away rattles the +chain round the wheel of the donkey-engine, and the break is put on +just in time to land Molly gently on the deck. In a minute she is snug +in her stall "for'ard," just by the cook's galley. + +Passengers are coming on board. Here is one mounting the ship's side, +who has had a wet passage from the shore. A seaman lends him a hand, +and he reaches the sloppy, slippery deck with difficulty. + +It is a dismal day. The sleet and rain come driving down. Everything +is raw and cold; everybody wet or damp. The passengers in wet +mackintoshes, and the seamen in wet tarpaulins; Gravesend, with its +dirty side to the river, and its dreary mud-bank exposed to sight; the +alternate drizzle and down-pour; the muddle and confusion of the +deck;--all this presented anything but an agreeable picture to look +at. So I speedily leave the deck, in order to make a better +acquaintance with what is to be my home for the next three months. + +First, there is the saloon--long and narrow--surrounded by the cabins. +It is our dining-room, drawing-room, and parlour, all in one. A long +table occupies the centre, fitted all round with fixed seats and +reversible backs. At one end of the table is the captain's chair, over +which hangs a clock and a barometer. Near the after end of the saloon +is the mizen-mast, which passes through into the hole below, and rests +on the keelson. + +The cabins, which surround the saloon, are separated from it by open +woodwork, for purposes of ventilation. The entrances to them from the +saloon are by sliding doors. They are separated from each other by +folding-doors, kept bolted on either side when one cabin only is +occupied; but these can be opened when the neighbours on both sides +are agreeable. + +My own little cabin is by no means dreary or uninviting. A window, +with six small panes, lets in light and air; and outside is a strong +board, or "dead-light," for use in rough weather, to protect the +glass. My bunk, next to the saloon, is covered with a clean white +counterpane. A little wash-stand occupies the corner; a shelf of +favourite books is over my bed-head; and a swing-lamp by its side. +Then there is my little mirror, my swing-tray for bottles, and a +series of little bags suspended from nails, containing all sorts of +odds and ends. In short, my little chamber, so fitted up, looks quite +cheerful and even jolly. + +It grows dusk, and there is still the same bustle and turmoil on deck. +All are busy; everybody is in a hurry. At about nine the noise seems +to subside; and the deck seems getting into something like order. As +we are not to weigh anchor until five in the morning, some of the +passengers land for a stroll on shore. I decide to go to bed. + +And now begins my first difficulty. I cannot find room to extend +myself, or even to turn. I am literally "cribbed, cabined, and +confined." Then there are the unfamiliar noises outside,--the cackling +of the ducks, the baa-ing of the sheep, the grunting of the +pigs,--possibly discussing the novelty of their position. And, nearly +all through the night, just outside my cabin, two or three of the +seamen sit talking together in gruff undertones. + +I don't think I slept much during my first night on board. I was lying +semi-conscious, when a loud voice outside woke me up in an +instant--"The anchor's up! she's away!" I jumped up, and, looking out +of my little cabin window, peered out into the grey dawn. The shores +seemed moving, and we were off! I dressed at once, and went on deck. +But how raw and chill it felt as I went up the companion-ladder. A +little steam-tug ahead of us was under weigh, with the 'Yorkshire' in +tow. The deck was now pretty well cleared, but white with frost; while +the river banks were covered with snow. + +Other ships were passing down stream, each with its tug; but we soon +distanced them all, especially when the men flung the sails to the +wind, now blowing fresh. At length, in about three-quarters of an +hour, the steamer took on board her tow-rope, and left us to proceed +on our voyage with a fair light breeze in our favour, and all our +canvas set. + +When off the Nore, we hailed the 'Norfolk,' homeward bound--a fast +clipper ship belonging to the same firm (Money Wigram's line),--and a +truly grand sight she was under full sail. There were great cheerings +and wavings of hats,--she passing up the river and we out to sea. + +I need not detain you with a description of my voyage down Channel. We +passed in succession Margate, Ramsgate, and Deal. The wind kept +favourable until we sighted Beachy Head, about half-past five in the +evening, and then it nearly died away. We were off Brighton when the +moon rose. The long stretch of lights along shore, the clear star-lit +sky, the bright moon, the ship gently rocking in the almost calm sea, +the sails idly flapping against the mast,--formed a picture of quiet +during my first night at sea, which I shall not soon forget. + +But all this, I was told, was but "weather-breeding;" and it was +predicted that we were to have a change. The glass was falling and we +were to look out for squalls. Nor were the squalls long in coming. +Early next morning I was roused by the noise on deck and the rolling +of things about my cabin floor. I had some difficulty in dressing, not +having yet found my sea legs; but I succeeded in gaining the +companion-ladder and reaching the poop. + +I found the wind had gone quite round in the night, and was now +blowing hard in our teeth, from the south-west. It was to be a case of +tacking down Channel,--a slow and, for landsmen, a very trying +process. In the midst of my first _mal de mer_, I was amused by the +appearance on board of one of my fellow-passengers. He was a small, a +very small individual, but possessed of a large stock of clothes, +which he was evidently glad to have an opportunity of exhibiting. He +first came up with a souwester on his head, the wrong end foremost, +and a pair of canvas shoes on his feet,--a sort of miniature Micawber, +or first-class cockney "salt," about to breast the briny. This small +person's long nose, large ears, and open mouth added to the +ludicrousness of his appearance. As the decks were wet and the morning +cold, he found the garb somewhat unsuitable, and dived below, to come +up again in strong boots and a straw hat. But after further +consideration, he retired again, and again he appeared in fresh +headgear--a huge seal-skin cap with lappets coming down over his ears. +This important and dressy little individual was a source of +considerable amusement to us; and there was scarcely an article in his +wardrobe that had not its turn during the day. + +All night it blew a gale; the wind still from the same quarter. We +kept tacking between the coast of England and the opposite coast of +France, making but small way as regards mileage,--the wind being right +in our teeth. During the night, each time that the ship was brought +round on the other tack, there was usually a tremendous lurch; and +sometimes an avalanche of books descended upon me from the shelf +overhead. Yet I slept pretty soundly. Once I was awakened by a +tremendous noise outside--something like a gun going off. I afterwards +found it had been occasioned by the mainsail being blown away to sea, +right out of the bolt-ropes, the fastenings of which were immediately +outside my cabin window. + +When I went on deck the wind was still blowing hard, and one had to +hold on to ropes or cleats to be able to stand. The whole sea was +alive, waves chasing waves and bounding over each other, crested with +foam. Now and then the ship would pitch her prow into a wave, even to +the bulwarks, dash the billow aside, and buoyantly rise again, bowling +along, though under moderate sail, because of the force of the gale. + +The sea has some sad sights, of which one shortly presented itself. +About midday the captain sighted a vessel at some distance off on our +weather bow, flying a flag of distress--an ensign upside down. Our +ship was put about, and as we neared the vessel we found she had been +abandoned, and was settling fast in the water. Two or three of her +sails were still set, torn to shreds by the storm. The bulwarks were +pretty much gone, and here and there the bare stanchions, or posts, +were left standing, splitting in two the waves which broke clear over +her deck, lying almost even with the sea. She turned out to be the +'Rosa,' of Guernsey, a fine barque of 700 tons, and she had been +caught and disabled by the storm we had ourselves encountered. As +there did not seem to be a living thing on board, and we could be of +no use, we sailed away; and she must have gone down shortly after we +left her. Not far from the sinking ship we came across a boat bottom +upwards, most probably belonging to the abandoned ship. What of the +poor seamen? Have they been saved by other boats, or been taken off by +some passing vessel? If not, alas for their wives and children at +home! Indeed it was a sad sight. + +But such things are soon forgotten at sea. We are too much occupied +by our own experiences to think much of others. For two more weary +days we went tacking about, the wind somewhat abating. Sometimes we +caught sight of the French coast through the mist; and then we tacked +back again. At length Eddystone light came in view, and we knew we +were not far from the entrance to Plymouth Sound. Once inside the +Breakwater, we felt ourselves in smooth water again. + +Going upon deck in the morning, I found our ship anchored in the +harbour nearly opposite Mount Edgcumbe. Nothing could be more lovely +than the sight that presented itself. The noble bay, surrounded by +rocks, cliffs, cottages--Drake's Island, bristling with cannon, +leaving open a glimpse into the Hamoaze studded with great hulks of +old war-ships--the projecting points of Mount Edgcumbe Park, carpeted +with green turf down to the water and fringed behind by noble woods, +looking like masses of emerald cut into fret-work--then, in the +distance, the hills of Dartmoor, variegated with many hues, and swept +with alternations of light and shade--all these presented a picture, +the like of which I had never before seen and feel myself quite +incompetent to describe. + +As we had to wait here for a fair wind, and the gale was still blowing +right into the harbour's mouth, there seemed no probability of our +setting sail very soon. We had, moreover, to make up our complement of +passengers, and provisions. Those who had a mind accordingly went on +shore, strolled through the town, and visited the Hoe, from which a +magnificent view of the harbour is obtained, or varied their bill of +fare by dining at an hotel. + +We were, however, cautioned not to sleep on shore, but to return to +the ship for the night, and even during the day to keep a sharp +look-out for the wind; for, immediately on a change to the nor'ard, no +time would be lost in putting out to sea. We were further informed +that, in the case of nearly every ship, passengers, through their own +carelessness and dilly-dallying on shore, had been left behind. I +determined, therefore, to stick to the ship. + +After three days' weary waiting, the wind at last went round; the +anchor was weighed with a willing "Yo! heave ho!" and in a few hours, +favoured by a fine light breeze, we were well out to sea, and the +brown cliffs of Old England gradually faded away in the distance. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + +FLYING SOUTH. + +FELLOW-PASSENGERS--LIFE ON BOARD SHIP--PROGRESS OF THE SHIP--HER +HANDLING--A FINE RUN DOWN TO THE LINE--SHIP'S AMUSEMENTS--CLIMBING THE +MIZEN--THE CAPE DE VERD ISLANDS--SAN ANTONIO. + + +_3rd March._--Like all passengers, I suppose, who come together on +board ship for a long voyage, we had scarcely passed the Eddystone +Lighthouse before we began to take stock of each other. Who is this? +What is he? Why is he going out? Such were the questions we inwardly +put to ourselves and sought to answer. + +I found several, like myself, were making the voyage for their health. +A long voyage by sailing ship seems to have become a favourite +prescription for lung complaints; and it is doubtless an honest one, +as the doctor who gives it at the same time parts with his patient and +his fees. But the advice is sound; as the long rest of the voyage, the +comparatively equable temperature of the sea air, and probably the +improved quality of the atmosphere inhaled, are all favourable to the +healthy condition of the lungs as well as of the general system. + +Of those going out in search of health, some were young and others +middle-aged. Amongst the latter was a patient, gentle sufferer, +racked by a hacking cough when he came on board. Another, a young +passenger, had been afflicted by abscess in his throat and incipient +lung-disease. A third had been worried by business and afflicted in +his brain, and needed a long rest. A fourth had been crossed in love, +and sought for change of scene and occupation. + +But there were others full of life and health among the passengers, +going out in search of fortune or of pleasure. Two stalwart, +outspoken, manly fellows, who came on board at Plymouth, were on their +way to New Zealand to farm a large tract of land. They seemed to me to +be models of what colonial farmers should be. Another was on his way +to take up a run in Victoria, some 250 miles north of Melbourne. He +had three fine Scotch colley dogs with him, which were the subject of +general admiration. + +We had also a young volunteer on board, who had figured at Brighton +reviews, and was now on his way to join his father in New Zealand, +where he proposed to join the colonial army. We had also a Yankee +gentleman, about to enter on his governorship of the Guano Island of +Maldon, in the Pacific, situated almost due north of the Society +Islands, said to have been purchased by an English company. + +Some were going out on "spec." If they could find an opening to +fortune, they would settle; if not, they would return. One gentleman +was taking with him a fine portable photographic apparatus, intending +to visit New Zealand and Tasmania, as well as Australia. + +Others were going out for indefinite purposes. The small gentleman, +for instance, who came on board at Gravesend with the extensive +wardrobe, was said to be going out to Australia to grow,--the +atmosphere and climate of the country being reported as having a +wonderful effect on growth. Another entertained me with a long account +of how he was leaving England because of his wife; but, as he was of a +somewhat priggish nature, I suspect the fault may have been his own as +much as hers. + + +And then there was the Major, a military and distinguished-looking +gentleman, who came on board, accompanied by a couple of shiny new +trunks, at Plymouth. He himself threw out the suggestion that the +raising of a colonial volunteer army was the grand object of his +mission. Anyhow, he had the manners of a gentleman. And he had seen +service, having lost his right arm in the Crimea and gone all through +the Indian Mutiny war with his left. He was full of fun, always in +spirits, and a very jolly fellow, though rather given to saying things +that would have been better left unsaid. + +Altogether, we have seventeen saloon passengers on board, including +the captain's wife, the only lady at the poop end. There were also +probably about eighty second and third-class passengers in the forward +parts of the ship. + +Although the wind was fair, and the weather fine, most of the +passengers suffered more or less from seasickness; but at length, +becoming accustomed to the motion of the ship, they gradually emerged +from their cabins, came on deck, and took part in the daily life on +board. Let me try and give a slight idea of what this is. + +At about six every morning we are roused by the sailors holystoning +the decks, under the superintendence of the officer of the watch. A +couple of middies pump up water from the sea, by means of a pump +placed just behind the wheel. It fills the tub until it overflows, +running along the scuppers of the poop, and out on to the main-deck +through a pipe. Here the seamen fill their buckets, and proceed with +the scouring of the main-deck. Such a scrubbing and mopping! + +I need scarcely explain that holystone is a large soft stone, used +with water, for scrubbing the dirt off the ship's decks. It rubs down +with sand; the sand is washed off by buckets of water thrown down, all +is well mopped, and the deck is then finished off with India-rubber +squilgees. + +The poop is always kept most bright and clean. Soon after we left port +it assumed a greatly-improved appearance. The boards began to whiten +with the holystoning. Not a grease-mark or spot of dirt was to be +seen. All was polished off with hand-scrapers. On Sundays the ropes on +the poop were all neatly coiled, man-of-war fashion--not a bight out +of place. The brasswork was kept as bright as a gilt button. + +By the time the passengers dressed and went on deck the cleaning +process was over, and the decks were dry. After half an hour's pacing +the poop the bell would ring for breakfast, the appetite for which +would depend very much upon the state of the weather and the lurching +of the ship. Between breakfast and lunch, more promenading on the +poop; the passengers sometimes, if the weather was fine, forming +themselves in groups on deck, cultivating each other's acquaintance. + +During our first days at sea we had some difficulty in finding our sea +legs. The march of some up and down the poop was often very irregular, +and occasionally ended in disaster. Yet the passengers were not the +only learners; for, one day, we saw one of the cabin-boys, carrying a +heavy ham down the steps from a meat-safe on board, miss his footing +in a lurch of the ship, and away went our fine ham into the +lee-scuppers, spoilt and lost. + +We lunched at twelve. From thence, until dinner at five, we mooned +about on deck as before, or visited sick passengers, or read in our +respective cabins, or passed the time in conversation; and thus the +day wore on. After dinner the passengers drew together in parties and +became social. In the pleasantly-lit saloon some of the elder subsided +into whist, while the juniors sought the middies in their cabin on the +main-deck, next door to the sheep-pen; there they entertained +themselves and each other with songs, accompanied by the concertina +and clouds of tobacco-smoke. + +The progress of the ship was a subject of constant interest. It was +the first thing in the morning and the last at night; and all through +the day, the direction of the wind, the state of the sky and the +weather, and the rate we were going at, were the uppermost topics of +conversation. + +When we left port the wind was blowing fresh on our larboard quarter +from the north-east, and we made good progress across the Bay of +Biscay; but, like many of our passengers, I was too much occupied by +private affairs to attend to the nautical business going on upon deck. +All I know was, that the wind was fair, and that we were going at a +good rate. On the fourth day, I found we were in the latitude of Cape +Finisterre, and that we had run 168 miles in the preceding 24 hours. +From this time forward, having got accustomed to the motion of the +ship, I felt sufficiently well to be on deck early and late, watching +the handling of the ship. + +It was a fine sight to look up at the cloud of canvas above, bellied +out by the wind, like the wings of a gigantic bird, while the ship +bounded through the water, dashing it in foam from her bows, and +sometimes dipping her prow into the waves, and sending aloft a shower +of spray. + +There was always something new to admire in the ship, and the way in +which she was handled: as, for instance, to see the topgallant sails +hauled down when the wind freshened, or a staysail set as the wind +went round to the east. The taking in of the mainsail on a stormy +night was a thing to be remembered for life: twenty-four men on the +great yard at a time, clewing it in to the music of the wind +whistling through the rigging. The men sing out cheerily at their +work, the one who mounts the highest, or stands the foremost on the +deck; usually taking the lead-- + + Hawl on the bowlin, + The jolly ship's a-rollin-- + Hawl on the bowlin, + And we'll all drink rum. + +In comes the rope with a "Yo! heave ho!" and a jerk, until the "belay" +sung out by the mate signifies that the work is done. Then, there is +the scrambling on the deck when the wind changes quarter, and the +yards want squaring as the wind blows more aft. Such are among the +interesting sights to be seen on deck when the wind is in her tantrums +at sea. + +On the fifth day the wind was blowing quite aft. Our run during the +twenty-four hours was 172 miles. Thermometer 58 deg.. The captain is in +hopes of a most favourable run to the Cape. It is our first Sunday on +board, and at 10.30 the bell rings for service, when the passengers of +all classes assemble in the saloon. The alternate standing and +kneeling during the service is rather uncomfortable, the fixed seats +jamming the legs, and the body leaning over at an unpleasant angle +when the ship rolls, which she frequently does, and rather savagely. + +Going upon deck next morning, I found the wind blowing strong from the +north, and the ship going through the water at a splendid pace. As +much sail was on as she could carry, and she dashed along, leaving a +broad track of foam in her wake. The captain is in high glee at the +speed at which we are going. "A fine run down to the Line!" he says, +as he walks the poop, smiling and rubbing his hands; while the middies +are enthusiastic in praises of the good ship, "walking the waters like +a thing of life." The spirits of all on board are raised by several +degrees. We have the pleasure of feeling ourselves bounding forward, +on towards the sunny south. There is no resting, but a constant +pressing onward, and, as we look over the bulwarks, the waves, tipped +by the foam which our ship has raised, seem to fly behind us at a +prodigious speed. At midday we find the ship's run during the +twenty-four hours has been 280 miles--a splendid day's work, almost +equal to steam! + +We are now in latitude 39 deg. 16', about due east of the Azores. The air +is mild and warm; the sky is azure, and the sea intensely blue. How +different from the weather in the English Channel only a short week +ago! Bugs are now discarded, and winter clothing begins to feel almost +oppressive. In the evenings, as we hang over the taffrail, we watch +with interest the bluish-white sparks mingling with the light blue +foam near the stern--the first indications of that phosphorescence +which, I am told, we shall find so bright in the tropics. + +An always interesting event at sea is the sighting of a distant ship. +To-day we signalled the 'Maitland,' of London, a fine ship, though she +was rolling a great deal, beating up against the wind that was +impelling us so prosperously forward. I hope she will report us on +arrival, to let friends at home know we are so far all right on our +voyage. + +The wind still continues to blow in our wake, but not so strongly; yet +we make good progress. The weather keeps very fine. The sky seems to +get clearer, the sea bluer, and the weather more brilliant, and even +the sails look whiter, as we fly south. About midday on the eighth day +after leaving Plymouth we are in the latitude of Madeira, which we +pass about forty miles distant. + +As the wind subsides, and the novelty of being on shipboard wears off, +the passengers begin to think of amusements. One cannot be always +reading; and, as for study, though I try Spanish and French +alternately, I cannot settle to them, and begin to think that life on +shipboard is not very favourable for study. We play at quoits--using +quoits of rope--on the poop, for a good part of the day. But this soon +becomes monotonous; and we begin to consider whether it may not be +possible to get up some entertainment on board to make the time pass +pleasantly. We had a few extempore concerts in one of the middies' +berths. The third-class passengers got up a miscellaneous +entertainment, including recitals, which went off very well. One of +the tragic recitations was so well received that it was encored. And +thus the time was whiled away, while we still kept flying south. + +On the ninth day we are well south of Madeira. The sun is so warm at +midday that an awning is hung over the deck, and the shade it affords +is very grateful. We are now in the trade-winds, which blow pretty +steadily at this part of our course in a south-westerly direction, and +may generally be depended upon until we near the Equator. At midday of +the tenth day I find we have run 180 miles in the last twenty-four +hours, with the wind still steady on our quarter. We have passed +Teneriffe, about 130 miles distant--too remote to see it--though I am +told that, had we been twenty miles nearer, we should probably have +seen the famous peak. + +To while away the time, and by way of a little adventure, I determined +at night to climb the mizen-mast with a fellow-passenger. While +leaving the deck I was chalked by a middy, in token that I was in for +my footing, so as to be free of the mizen-top. I succeeded in reaching +it safely, though to a green hand, as I was, it looks and really feels +somewhat perilous at first. I was sensible of the feeling of fear or +apprehension just at the moment of getting over the cross-trees. Your +body hangs over in mid-air, at a terrible incline backwards, and you +have to hold on like anything for just one moment, until you get your +knee up into the top. The view of the ship under press of canvas from +the mizen-top is very grand; and the phosphorescence in our wake, +billow upon billow of light shining foam, seemed more brilliant than +ever. + +The wind again freshens, and on the eleventh day we make another fine +run of 230 miles. It is becoming rapidly warmer, and we shall soon be +in the region of bonitos, albatrosses, and flying fish--only a +fortnight after leaving England! + +Our second Sunday at sea was beautiful exceedingly. We had service in +the saloon as usual; and, after church, I climbed the mizen, and had +half an hour's nap on the top. Truly this warm weather, and monotonous +sea life, seems very favourable for dreaming, and mooning, and +loafing. In the evening there was some very good hymn-singing in the +second-class cabin. + +Early next morning, when pacing the poop, we were startled by the cry +from the man on the forecastle of "Land ho!" I found, by the direction +of the captain's eyes, that the land seen lay off our weather-beam. +But, though I strained my eyes looking for the land, I could see +nothing. It was not for hours that I could detect it; and then it +looked more like a cloud than anything else. At length the veil +lifted, and I saw the land stretching away to the eastward. It was the +island of San Antonio, one of the Cape de Verds. + +As we neared the land, and saw it more distinctly, it looked a grand +object. Though we were then some fifteen miles off, yet the highest +peaks, which were above the clouds, some thousands of feet high, were +so clear and so beautiful that they looked as if they had been stolen +out of the 'Arabian Nights,' or some fairy tale of wonder and beauty. + +The island is said to be alike famous for its oranges and pretty +girls. Indeed the Major, who is very good at drawing the long bow, +declared that he could see a very interesting female waving her hand +to him from a rock! With the help of the telescope we could certainly +see some of the houses on shore. + +As this is the last land we are likely to see until we reach +Australia, we regard it with all the greater interest; and I myself +watched it in the twilight until it faded away into a blue mist on the +horizon. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +WITHIN THE TROPICS. + +INCREASE OF TEMPERATURE--FLYING FISH--THE MORNING BATH ON +BOARD--PAYING "FOOTINGS"--THE MAJOR'S WONDERFUL STORIES--ST. PATRICK'S +DAY--GRAMPUSES--A SHIP IN SIGHT--THE 'LORD RAGLAN'--RAIN-FALL IN THE +TROPICS--TROPICAL SUNSETS--THE YANKEE WHALER. + + +_17th March_.--We are now fairly within the tropics. The heat +increases day by day. This morning, at eight, the temperature was 87 deg. +in my cabin. At midday, with the sun nearly overhead, it is really +hot. The sky is of a cloudless azure, with a hazy appearance towards +the horizon. The sea is blue, dark, deep blue--and calm. + +Now we see plenty of flying-fish. Whole shoals of the glittering +little things glide along in the air, skimming the tops of the waves. +They rise to escape their pursuers, the bonitos, which rush after +them, showing their noses above the water now and then. But the poor +flying-fish have their enemies above the waters as well as under them; +for they no sooner rise than they risk becoming the prey of the ocean +birds, which are always hovering about and ready to pounce upon them. +It is a case of "out of the frying-pan into the fire." They fly +further than I thought they could. I saw one of them to-day fly at +least sixty yards, and sometimes they mount so high as to reach the +poop, some fifteen feet from the surface of the water. + +One of the most pleasant events of the day is the morning bath on +board. You must remember the latitude we are in. We are passing along, +though not in sight of, that part of the African coast where a +necklace is considered full dress. We sympathise with the natives, for +we find clothes becoming intolerable; hence our enjoyment of the +morning bath, which consists in getting into a large tub on board and +being pumped upon by the hose. Pity that one cannot have it later, as +it leaves such a long interval between bath and breakfast; but it +freshens one up wonderfully, and is an extremely pleasant operation. I +only wish that the tub were twenty times as large, and the hose twice +as strong. + +The wind continues in our favour, though gradually subsiding. During +the last two days we have run over 200 miles each day; but the captain +says that by the time we reach the Line the wind will have completely +died away. To catch a little of the breeze, I go up the rigging to the +top. Two sailors came up mysteriously, one on each side of the +ratlines. They are terrible fellows for making one pay "footings," and +their object was to intercept my retreat downwards. When they reached +me, I tried to resist; but it was of no use. I must be tied to the +rigging unless I promised the customary bottle of rum; so I gave in +with a good grace, and was thenceforward free to take an airing +aloft. + +The amusements on deck do not vary much. Quoits, cards, reading, and +talking, and sometimes a game of romps, such as "Walk, my lady, walk!" +We have tried to form a committee, with a view to getting up some +Penny Reading or theatrical entertainment, and to ascertain whether +there be any latent talent aboard; but the heat occasions such a +languor as to be very unfavourable for work, and the committee lay +upon their oars, doing nothing. + +One of our principal sources of amusement is the Major. He is +unfailing. His drawings of the long bow are as good as a theatrical +entertainment. If any one tells a story of something wonderful, he at +once "caps it," as they say in Yorkshire, by something still more +wonderful. One of the passengers, who had been at Calcutta, speaking +of the heat there, said it was so great as to make the pitch run out +of the ship's sides. "Bah!" said the Major, "that is nothing to what +it is in Ceylon; there the heat is so great as to melt the soldiers' +buttons off on parade, and then their jackets all get loose." + +It seems that to-day (the 17th) is St. Patrick's Day. This the Major, +who is an Irishman, discovered only late in the evening, when he +declared he would have "given a fiver" if he had only known it in the +morning. But, to make up for lost time, he called out forthwith, +"Steward! whisky!" and he disposed of some seven or eight glasses in +the saloon before the lamps were put out; after which he adjourned to +one of the cabins, and there continued the celebration of St. +Patrick's Day until about two o'clock in the morning. On getting up +rather late, he said to himself, loud enough for me to overhear in my +cabin, "Well, George, my boy, you've done your duty to St. Patrick; +but he's left you a horrible bad headache!" And no wonder. + +At last there is a promised novelty on board. Some original Christy's +Minstrels are in rehearsal, and the Theatrical Committee are looking +up amateurs for a farce. Readings from Dickens are also spoken of. An +occasional whale is seen blowing in the distance, and many grampuses +come rolling about the ship,--most inelegant brutes, some three or +four times the size of a porpoise. Each in turn comes up, throws +himself round on the top of the sea, exposing nearly half his body, +and then rolls off again. + +To-day (the 20th March) we caught our first fish from the +forecastle,--a bonito, weighing about seven pounds. Its colour was +beautifully variegated: on the back dark blue, with a streak of light +blue silver on either side, and the belly silvery white. These fish +are usually caught from the jiboom and the martingale, as they play +about the bows of the ship. The only bait is a piece of white rag, +which is bobbed upon the surface of the water to imitate a +flying-fish. + +But what interests us more than anything else at present is the +discovery of some homeward-bound ship, by which to despatch our +letters to friends at home. The captain tells us that we are now +almost directly in the track of vessels making for England from the +south; and that if we do not sight one in the course of a day or two, +we may not have the chance of seeing another until we are far on our +way south--if it all. We are, therefore, anxiously waiting for the +signal of a ship in sight; and, in the hope that one may appear, we +are all busily engaged in the saloon giving the finishing touches to +our home letters. + +Shortly after lunch the word was given that no less than three ships +were in sight. Immense excitement on board! Everybody turned up on +deck. Passengers who had never been seen since leaving Plymouth, now +made their appearance to look out for the ships. One of them was a +steamer, recognizable by the line of smoke on the horizon, supposed to +be the West India mail-boat; another was outward-bound, like +ourselves; and the third was the homeward-bound ship for which we were +all on the look-out. She lay right across our bows, but was still a +long way off. As we neared her, betting began among the passengers, +led by the Major, as to whether she would take letters or not. The +scene became quite exciting. The captain ordered all who had letters +to be in readiness. I had been scribbling my very hardest ever since +the ships came in sight, and now I closed my letter and sealed it up. +Would the ship take our letters? Yes! She is an English ship, with an +English flag at her peak; and she signals for newspapers, preserved +milk, soap, and a doctor! + +I petitioned for leave to accompany the doctor, and, to my great +delight, was allowed to do so. The wind had nearly gone quite down, +and only came in occasional slight gusts. The sea was, therefore, +comparatively calm, with only a long, slow swell; yet, even though +calm, there is some little difficulty in getting down into a boat in +mid-ocean. At one moment the boat is close under you, and at the next +she is some four yards down, and many feet apart from the side of the +ship; you have, therefore, to be prompt in seizing an opportunity, and +springing on board just at the right moment. + +As we moved away from the 'Yorkshire,' with a good bundle of +newspapers and the other articles signalled for, and looked back upon +our ship, she really looked a grand object on the waters. The sun +shone full upon her majestic hull, her bright copper now and then +showing as she slowly rose and sank on the long swell. Above all were +her towers of white canvas, standing out in relief against the +leaden-coloured sky. Altogether, I don't think I have ever seen a more +magnificent sight. As we parted from the ship, the hundred or more +people on board gave us a ringing cheer. + +Our men now pulled with a will towards the still-distant ship. As we +neared her, we observed that she must have encountered very heavy +weather, as part of her foremast and mainmast had been carried away. +Her sides looked dirty and worn, and all her ironwork was rusty, as if +she had been a long time at sea. She proved to be the 'Lord Raglan,' +of about 800 tons, bound from Bankok, in Siam, to Yarmouth. + +The captain was delighted to see us, and gave us a most cordial +welcome. He was really a very nice fellow, and was kindness itself. +He took us down to his cabin, and treated us to Chinese beer and +cigars. The place was cheerful and comfortable-looking, and fitted up +with Indian and Chinese curiosities; yet I could scarcely reconcile +myself to living there. There was a dreadful fusty smell about, which, +I am told, is peculiar to Indian and Chinese ships. The vessel was +laden with rice, and the fusty heat which came up from below was +something awful. + +The 'Lord Raglan' had been nearly two years from London. She had run +from London to Hong-Kong, and had since been engaged in trading +between there and Siam. She was now eighty-three days from Bankok. In +this voyage she had encountered some very heavy weather, in which she +had sprung her foremast, which was now spliced up all round. What +struck me was the lightness of her spars and the smallness of her +sails, compared with ours. Although her mainmast is as tall, it is not +so thick as our mizen, and her spars are very slender above the first +top. Yet the 'Raglan,' in her best days, used to be one of the crack +Melbourne clipper ships. + +The kindly-natured captain was most loth to let us go. It was almost +distressing to see the expedients he adopted to keep us with him for a +few minutes longer. But it was fast growing dusk, and in the tropics +it darkens almost suddenly; so we were at last obliged to tear +ourselves away, and leave him with his soap, milk, and newspapers. He, +on his part, sent by us a twenty-pound chest of tea, as a present for +the chief mate (who was with us) and the captain. As we left the +ship's side we gave the master and crew of the 'Raglan' a hearty +"three times three." All this while the two vessels had been lying +nearly becalmed, so that we had not a very long pull before we were +safely back on board our ship. + +For about five days we lie nearly idle, making very little progress, +almost on the Line. The trade-winds have entirely left us. The heat is +tremendous--130 deg. in the sun; and at midday, when the sun is right +overhead, it is difficult to keep the deck. Towards evening the +coolness is very pleasant; and when rain falls, as it can only fall in +the tropics, we rush out to enjoy the bath. We assume the thinnest of +_bizarre_ costumes, and stand still under the torrent, or vary the +pleasure by emptying buckets over each other. + +We are now in lat. 0 deg. 22', close upon the Equator. Though our sails +are set, we are not sailing, but only floating: indeed, we seem to be +drifting. On looking round the horizon, I count no fewer than sixteen +ships in sight, all in the same plight as ourselves. We are drawn +together by an under-current or eddy, though scarcely a breath of wind +is stirring. We did not, however, speak any of the ships, most of them +being comparatively distant. + +We cross the Line about 8 P.M. on the twentieth day from Plymouth. We +have certainly had a very fine run thus far, slow though our progress +now is, for we are only going at the rate of about a mile an hour; but +when we have got a little further south, we expect to get out of the +tropical calms and catch the southeast trade-winds. + +On the day following, the 24th March, a breeze sprang up, and we made +a run of 187 miles. We have now passed the greatest heat, and shortly +expect cooler weather. Our spirits rise with the breeze, and we again +begin to think of getting up some entertainments on board; for, though +we have run some 4,800 miles from Plymouth, we have still some fifty +days before us ere we expect to see Melbourne. + +One thing that strikes me much is the magnificence of the tropical +sunsets. The clouds assume all sorts of fantastic shapes, and appear +more solid and clearly defined than I have ever seen before. Towards +evening they seem to float in colour--purple, pink, red, and yellow +alternately--while the sky near the setting sun seems of a beautiful +green, gradually melting into the blue sky above. The great clouds on +the horizon look like mountains tipped with gold and fiery red. One of +these sunsets was a wonderful sight. The sun went down into the sea +between two enormous clouds--the only ones to be seen--and they blazed +with the brilliant colours I have described, which were constantly +changing, until the clouds stood out in dark relief against the still +delicately-tinted sky. I got up frequently to see the sun rise, but in +the tropics it is not nearly so fine at its rising as at its setting. + +A ship was announced as being in sight, with a signal flying to speak +with us. We were sailing along under a favourable breeze, but our +captain put the ship about and waited for the stranger. It proved to +be a Yankee whaler. When the captain came on board, he said "he +guessed he only wanted newspapers." Our skipper was in a "roaring wax" +at being stopped in his course for such a trivial matter, but he said +nothing. The whaler had been out four years, and her last port was +Honolulu in the Sandwich Islands. The Yankee captain, amongst other +things, wanted to know if Grant was President, and if the 'Alabama' +question was settled; he was interested in the latter question, as the +'Alabama' had burnt one of his ships. He did not seem very comfortable +while on board, and when he had got his papers he took his leave. I +could not help admiring the whale-boat in which he was rowed back to +his own vessel. It was a beautiful little thing, though dirty; but, it +had doubtless seen much service. It was exquisitely modelled, and the +two seamen in the little craft handled it to perfection. How they +contrived to stand up in it quite steady, while the boat, sometimes +apparently half out of the water, kept rising and falling on the long +ocean-swell, seemed to me little short of marvellous. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE 'BLUE JACKET.' + +APRIL FOOLS' DAY--A SHIP IN SIGHT--THE 'PYRMONT'--THE RESCUED 'BLUE +JACKET' PASSENGERS--STORY OF THE BURNT SHIP--SUFFERING OF THE LADY +PASSENGERS IN AN OPEN BOAT--THEIR RESCUE--DISTRESSING SCENE ON BOARD +THE 'PYRMONT.' + + +_1st. April_.--I was roused early this morning by the cry outside of +"Get up! get up! There is a ship on fire ahead!" I got up instantly, +dressed, and hastened on deck, like many more. But there was no ship +on fire; and then we laughed, and remembered that it was All Fools' +Day. + +In the course of the forenoon we descried a sail, and shortly after we +observed that she was bearing down upon us. The cry of "Letters for +home!" was raised, and we hastened below to scribble a few last words, +close our letters, and bring them up for the letter-bag. + +By this time the strange ship had drawn considerably nearer, and we +saw that she was a barque, heavily laden. She proved to be the +'Pyrmont,' a German vessel belonging to Hamburg, but now bound for +Yarmouth from Iquique, with a cargo of saltpetre on board. When she +came near enough to speak to us, our captain asked, "What do you +want?" The answer was, "'Blue Jacket' burnt at sea; her passengers on +board. Have you a doctor?" Here was a sensation! Our April Fools' +alarm was true after all. A vessel _had_ been on fire, and here were +the poor passengers asking for help. We knew nothing of the 'Blue +Jacket,' but soon we were to know all. + +A boat was at once lowered from the davits, and went off with the +doctor and the first mate. It was a hazy, sultry, tropical day, with a +very slight breeze stirring, and very little sea. Our main-yard was +backed to prevent our further progress, and both ships lay-to within a +short distance of each other. We watched our boat until we saw the +doctor and officer mount the 'Pyrmont,' and then waited for further +intelligence. + +Shortly after we saw our boat leaving the ship's side, and as it +approached we observed that it contained some strangers, as well as +our doctor, who had returned for medicines, lint, and other +appliances. When the strangers reached the deck we found that one of +them was the first officer of the unfortunate 'Blue Jacket,' and the +other one of the burnt-out passengers. The latter, poor fellow, looked +a piteous sight. He had nothing on but a shirt and pair of trowsers; +his hair was matted, his face haggard, his eyes sunken. He was without +shoes, and his feet were so sore that he could scarcely walk without +support. + +And yet it turned out that this poor suffering fellow was one of the +best-conditioned of those who had been saved from the burnt ship. He +told us how that the whole of the fellow-passengers whom he had just +left on board the 'Pyrmont' wanted clothes, shirts, and shoes, and +were in a wretched state, having been tossed about at sea in an open +boat for about nine days, during which they had suffered the +extremities of cold, thirst, and hunger. + +We were horrified by the appearance, and still more by the recital, of +the poor fellow. Every moment he astonished us by new details of +horror. But it was of no use listening to more. We felt we must do +something. All the passengers at once bestirred themselves, and went +into their cabins to seek out any clothing they could spare for the +relief of the sufferers. I found I could give trowsers, shirts, a pair +of drawers, a blanket, and several pocket-handkerchiefs; and as the +other passengers did likewise, a very fair bundle was soon made up and +sent on board the 'Pyrmont.' + +Of course we were all eager to know something of the details of the +calamity which had befallen the 'Blue Jacket.' It was some time before +we learnt them all; but as two of the passengers--who had been +gold-diggers in New Zealand--were so good as to write out a statement +for the doctor, the original of which now lies before me, I will +endeavour, in as few words as I can, to give you some idea of the +burning of the ship and the horrible sufferings of the passengers. + +The 'Blue Jacket' sailed from Port Lyttleton, New Zealand, for London +on the 13th February, 1869, laden with wool, cotton, flax, and 15,000 +ounces of gold. There were seven first-cabin passengers and seventeen +second-cabin. The ship had a fine run to Cape Horn and past the +Falkland Islands. All went well until the 9th March, when in latitude +50 deg. 26' south, one of the seamen, about midday, observed smoke issuing +from the fore-hatchhouse. The cargo was on fire! All haste was made to +extinguish it. The fire-engines were set to work, passengers as well +as crew working with a will, and at one time it seemed as if the fire +would be got under. The hatch was opened and the second mate attempted +to go down, with the object of getting up and throwing overboard the +burning bales, but he was drawn back insensible. The hatch was again +closed, and holes were cut in the deck to pass the water down; but the +seat of the fire could not be reached. The cutter was lowered, +together with the two lifeboats, for use in case of need. About 7.30 +P.M. the fire burst through the decks, and in about half an hour the +whole forecastle was enveloped in flames, which ran up the rigging, +licking up the foresail and fore-top. The mainmast being of iron, the +flames rushed through the tube as through a chimney, until it became +of a white heat. The lady-passengers in the after part of the ship +must have been kept in a state of total ignorance of the ship's +danger, otherwise it is impossible to account for their having to rush +on board the boats, at the last moment, with only the dresses they +wore. Only a few minutes before they left the ship, one of the ladies +was playing the 'Guards' Waltz on the cabin piano! + +There was no hope of safety but in the boats, which were hurriedly got +into. On deck, everything was in a state of confusion. Most of the +passengers got into the cutter, but without a seaman to take charge +of it. When the water-cask was lowered, it was sent bung downwards, +and nearly half the water was lost. By this time the burning ship was +a grand but fearful sight, and the roar of the flames was frightful to +hear. At length the cutter and the two lifeboats got away, and as they +floated astern the people in them saw the masts disappear one by one +and the hull of the ship a roaring mass of fire. + +In the early grey of the morning the three boats mustered, and two of +the passengers, who were on one of the lifeboats, were taken on board +the cutter. It now contained 37 persons, including the captain, first +officer, doctor, steward, purser, several able-bodied seamen, and all +the passengers; while the two lifeboats had 31 of the crew. The boats +drifted about all day, there being no wind, and the burning ship was +still in sight. On the third day the lifeboats were not to be seen; +each had a box of gold on board, by way of ballast. + +A light breeze having sprung up, sail was made on the cutter, the +captain intending to run for the Falkland Islands. The sufferings of +the passengers increased from day to day; they soon ran short of +water, until the day's allowance was reduced to about two +tablespoonfuls for each person. It was pitiful to hear the little +children calling for more, but it could not be given them: men, women, +and children had to share alike. Provisions failed. The biscuit had +been spoiled by the salt water; all that remained in the way of food, +was preserved meat, which was soon exhausted, after which the only +allowance, besides the two tablespoonfuls of water, was a +tablespoonful of preserved soup every twenty-four hours. Meanwhile the +wind freshened, the sea rose, and the waves came dashing over the +passengers, completely drenching them. The poor ladies, thinly clad, +looked the pictures of misery. + +Thus seven days passed--days of slow agony, such as words cannot +describe--until at last the joyous words, "A sail! a sail," roused the +sufferers to new life. A man was sent to the masthead with a red +blanket to hoist by way of signal of distress. The ship saw the signal +and bore down upon the cutter. She proved to be the 'Pyrmont,' the +ship lying within sight of us, and between which and the 'Yorkshire' +our boat kept plying for the greater part of the day. + +Strange to say, the rescued people suffered more after they had got on +board the 'Pyrmont' than they had done during their period of +starvation and exposure. Few of them could stand or walk when taken on +board, all being reduced to the last stage of weakness. Scarcely had +they reached the 'Pyrmont' ere the third steward died; next day the +ship's purser died insane; and two days after, one of the second-cabin +passengers died. The others, who recovered, broke out in sores and +boils, more particularly on their hands and feet; and when the +'Yorkshire' met them, many of the passengers as well as the crew of +the burnt 'Blue Jacket' were in a most pitiable plight. + +I put off with the third boat which left our ship's side for the +'Pyrmont.' We were lying nearly becalmed all this time, so that +passing between the ships by boat was comparatively easy. We took with +us as much fresh water as we could spare, together with provisions and +other stores. I carried with me a few spare books for the use of the +'Blue Jacket' passengers. + +On reaching the deck of the 'Pyrmont,' the scene which presented +itself was such as I think I shall never forget. The three rescued +ladies were on the poop; and ladies you could see they were, in spite +of their scanty and dishevelled garments. The dress of one of them +consisted of a common striped man's shirt, a waterproof cloak made +into a skirt, and a pair of coarse canvas slippers, while on her +finger glittered a magnificent diamond ring. The other ladies were no +better dressed, and none of them had any covering for the head. Their +faces bore distinct traces of the sufferings they had undergone. Their +eyes were sunken, their cheeks pale, and every now and then a sort of +spasmodic twitch seemed to pass over their features. One of them could +just stand, but could not walk; the others were comparatively +helpless. A gentleman was lying close by the ladies, still suffering +grievously in his hands and feet from the effects of his long exposure +in the open boat, while one side of his body was completely paralysed. +One poor little boy could not move, and the doctor said he must lose +one or two of his toes through mortification. + +One of the ladies was the wife of the passenger gentleman who had +first come on board of our ship. She was a young lady, newly married, +who had just set out on her wedding trip. What a terrible beginning of +married life! I found she had suffered more than the others through +her devotion to her husband. He was, at one time, constantly employed +in baling the boat, and would often have given way but for her. She +insisted on his taking half her allowance of water, so that he had +three tablespoonfuls daily instead of two; whereas she had only one! + +While in the boat the women and children were forced to sit huddled up +at one end of it, covered with a blanket, the seas constantly breaking +over them and soaking through everything. They had to sit upright, and +in very cramped postures, for fear of capsizing the boat; and the +little sleep they got could only be snatched sitting. Yet they bore +their privations with great courage and patience, and while the men +were complaining and swearing, the women and children never uttered a +complaint. + +I had a long talk with the ladies, whom I found very resigned and most +grateful for their deliverance. I presented my books, which were +thankfully received, and the newly-married lady, forgetful of her +miseries, talked pleasantly and intelligently about current topics, +and home news. It did seem strange for me to be sitting on the deck of +the 'Pyrmont,' in the middle of the Atlantic, talking with these +shipwrecked ladies about the last new novel! + +At last we took our leave, laden with thanks, and returned on board +our ship. It was now growing dusk. We had done all that we could for +the help of the poor sufferers on board the 'Pyrmont,' and, a light +breeze springing up, all sail was set, and we resumed our voyage +south. + +Two of the gold-diggers, who had been second-class passengers by the +'Blue Jacket,' came on board our ship with the object of returning +with us to Melbourne, and it is from their recital that I have +collated the above account of the disaster. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC. + +PREPARING FOR ROUGH WEATHER--THE 'GEORGE THOMPSON' CLIPPER--A RACE AT +SEA--SCENE FROM 'PICKWICK' ACTED--FISHING FOR ALBATROSS--DISSECTION +AND DIVISION OF THE BIRD--WHALES--STRONG GALE--SMASH IN THE +CABIN--SHIPPING A GREEN SEA--THE SEA BIRDS IN OUR WAKE--THE CROZET +ISLANDS. + + +_11th April_.--We are now past the pleasantest part of our voyage, and +expect to encounter much rougher seas. Everything is accordingly +prepared for heavy weather. The best and newest sails are bent; the +old and worn ones are sent below. We may have to encounter storms or +even cyclones in the Southern Ocean, and our captain is now ready for +any wind that may blow. For some days we have had a very heavy swell +coming up from the south, as if there were strong winds blowing in +that quarter. We have, indeed, already had a taste of dirty weather +to-day--hard rain, with a stiffish breeze; but as the ship is still +going with the wind and sea, we do not as yet feel much inconvenience. + +A few days since, we spoke a vessel that we had been gradually coming +up to for some time, and she proved to be the 'George Thompson,' a +splendid Aberdeen-built clipper, one of the fastest ships out of +London. No sooner was this known, than it became a matter of great +interest as to whether we could overhaul the clipper. Our ship, +because of the height and strength of her spars, enables us to carry +much more sail, and we are probably equal to the other ship in lighter +breezes; but she, being clipper-built and so much sharper, has the +advantage of us in heavier winds. The captain was overjoyed at having +gained upon the other vessel thus far, for she left London five days +before we sailed from Plymouth. As we gradually drew nearer, the +breeze freshened, and there became quite an exciting contest between +the ships. We gained upon our rival, caught up to her, and gradually +forged ahead, and at sundown the 'George Thompson' was about six miles +astern. Before we caught up to her she signalled to us, by way of +chaff, "Signal us at Lloyd's!" and when we had passed her, we +signalled back, "We wish you a good voyage!" + +The wind having freshened during the night, the 'George Thompson' was +seen gradually creeping up to us with all her sail set. The wind was +on our beam, and the 'George Thompson's' dark green hull seemed to us +sometimes almost buried in the sea, and we only saw her slanting deck +as she heeled over from the freshening breeze. What a cloud of canvas +she carried! The spray flew up and over her decks, as she plunged +right through the water. + +The day advanced; she continued to gain, and towards evening she +passed on our weather-side. The captain, of course, was savage; but +the race was not lost yet. On the following day, with a lighter wind, +we again overhauled our rival, and at night left her four or five +miles behind. Next day she was not to be seen. We had thus far +completely outstripped the noted clipper.[1] + +We again begin to reconsider the question of giving a popular +entertainment on board. The ordinary recreations of quoit-playing, and +such like, have become unpopular, and a little variety is wanted. A +reading from 'Pickwick' is suggested; but cannot we contrive to _act_ +a few of the scenes! We determine to get up three of the most +attractive:--1st. The surprise of Mrs. Bardell in Pickwick's arms; +2nd. The notice of action from Dodson and Fogg; and 3rd. The Trial +scene. A great deal of time is, of course, occupied in getting up the +scenes, and in the rehearsals, which occasion a good deal of +amusement. A London gentleman promises to make a capital Sam Weller; +our clergyman a very good Buzfuz; and our worthy young doctor the +great Pickwick himself. + +At length all is ready, and the affair comes off in the main-hatch, +where there is plenty of room. The theatre is rigged out with flags, +and looks quite gay. The passengers of all classes assemble, and make +a goodly company. The whole thing went off very well--indeed, much +better than was expected--though I do not think the third-class +passengers quite appreciated the wit of the piece. Strange to say, +the greatest success of the evening was the one least expected--the +character of Mrs. Cluppins. One of the middies who took the part, was +splendid, and evoked roars of laughter. + +Our success has made us ambitious, and we think of getting up another +piece--a burlesque, entitled 'Sir Dagobert and the Dragon,' from one +of my Beeton's 'Annuals.' There is not much in it; but, _faute de +mieux_, it may do very well. But to revert to less "towny" and much +more interesting matters passing on board. + +We were in about the latitude of the Cape of Good Hope when we saw our +first albatross; but as we proceeded south, we were attended by +increasing numbers of those birds as well as of Mother Carey's +chickens, the storm-birds of the South Seas. The albatross is a +splendid bird, white on the breast and the inside of the wings, the +rest of the body being deep brown and black. + +One of the most popular amusements is "fishing" for an albatross, +which is done in the following manner. A long and stout line is let +out, with a strong hook at the end baited with a piece of meat, buoyed +up with corks. This is allowed to trail on the water at the stern of +the ship. One or other of the sea-birds wheeling about, seeing the +floating object in the water, comes up, eyes it askance, and perhaps +at length clumsily flops down beside it. The line is at once let out, +so that the bait may not drag after the ship. If this be done +cleverly, and there be length enough of line to let out quickly, the +bird probably makes a snatch at the meat, and the hook catches hold of +his curved bill. Directly he grabs at the pork, and it is felt that +the albatross is hooked, the letting out of the line is at once +stopped, and it is hauled in with all speed. The great thing is to +pull quickly, so as to prevent the bird getting the opportunity of +spreading his wings, and making a heavy struggle as he comes along on +the surface of the water. It is a good heavy pull for two men to get +up an albatross if the ship is going at any speed. The poor fellow, +when hauled on deck, is no longer the royal bird that he seemed when +circling above our heads with his great wings spread out only a few +minutes ago. Here he is quite helpless, and tries to waddle about like +a great goose; the first thing he often does being to void all the +contents of his stomach, as if he were seasick. + +The first albatross we caught was not a very large one, being only +about ten feet from tip to tip of the wings; whereas the larger birds +measure from twelve to thirteen feet. The bird, when caught, was held +firmly down, and despatched by the doctor with the aid of prussic +acid. He was then cut up, and his skin, for the sake of the feathers +and plumage, divided amongst us. The head and neck fell to my share, +and, after cleaning and dressing it, I hung my treasure by a string +out of my cabin-window; but, when I next went to look at it, lo! the +string had been cut, and my albatross's head and neck were gone. + +All day the saloon and various cabins smelt very fishy by reason of +the operations connected with the dissecting and cleaning of the +several parts of the albatross. One was making a pipe-stem out of one +of the long wing-bones. Another was making a tobacco pouch out of the +large feet of the bird. The doctor's cabin was like a butcher's shop +in these bird-catching times. Part of his floor would be occupied by +the bloody skin of the great bird, stretched out upon boards, with the +doctor on his knees beside it working away with his dissecting +scissors and pincers, getting the large pieces of fat off the skin. +Esculapius seemed quite to relish the operation; whilst, on the other +hand the clergyman, who occupied the same cabin, held his handkerchief +to his nose, and regarded the debris of flesh and feathers on the +floor with horror and dismay. + +Other birds, of a kind we had not before seen shortly made their +appearance, flying round the ship. There is, for instance, the +whale-bird, perfectly black on the top of the wings and body, and +white underneath. It is, in size, between a Mother Carey and a +Molly-hawk, which latter is very nearly as big as an albatross. +Ice-birds and Cape-pigeons also fly about us in numbers; the latter +are about the size of ordinary pigeons, black, mottled with white on +the back, and grey on the breast. + +A still more interesting sight was that of a great grampus, which rose +close to the ship, exposing his body as he leapt through a wave. +Shortly after, a few more were seen at a greater distance, as if +playing about and gambolling for our amusement. + +_17th April_.--The weather is growing sensibly colder. Instead of +broiling under cover, in the thinnest of garments, we now revert to +our winter clothing for comfort. Towards night the wind rose, and +gradually increased until it blew a heavy gale, so strong that all the +sails had to be taken in--all but the foresail and the main-topsail +closely reefed. Luckily for us, the wind was nearly aft, so that we +did not feel its effects nearly so much as if it had been on our beam. +Tonight we rounded the Cape, twenty-four days from the Line and +forty-five from Plymouth. + +On the following day the wind was still blowing hard. When I went on +deck in the morning, I found that the mainsail had been split up the +middle, and carried away with a loud bang to sea. The ship was now +under mizen-topsail, close-reefed main-topsail, and fore-topsail and +foresail, no new mainsail having been bent. The sea was a splendid +sight. Waves, like low mountains, came rolling after us, breaking +along each side of the ship. I was a personal sufferer by the gale. I +had scarcely got on deck when the wind whisked off my Scotch cap with +the silver thistle in it, and blew it away to sea. Then, in going down +to my cabin, I found my books, boxes, and furniture lurching about; +and, to wind up with, during the evening I was rolled over while +sitting on one of the cuddy chairs, and broke it. Truly a day full of +small misfortunes for me! + +In the night I was awakened by the noise and the violent rolling of +the ship. The mizen-mast strained and creaked; chairs had broken loose +in the saloon; crockery was knocking about and smashing up in the +steward's pantry. In the cabin adjoining, the water-can and bath were +rambling up and down; and in the midst of all the hubbub the Major +could be heard shouting, "Two to one on the water-can!" "They were +just taking the fences," he said. There were few but had some mishap +in their cabins. One had a hunt after a box that had broken loose; +another was lamenting the necessity of getting up after his +washhand-basin and placing his legs in peril outside his bunk. Before +breakfast I went on deck to look at the scene. It was still blowing a +gale. We were under topsails and mainsail, with a close-reefed +top-sail on the mizen-mast. The sight from the poop is splendid. At +one moment we were high up on the top of a wave, looking into a deep +valley behind us; at another we were down in the trough of the sea, +with an enormous wall of water coming after us. The pure light-green +waves were crested with foam, which curled over and over, and never +stopped rolling. The deck lay over at a dreadful slant to a landsman's +eye; indeed, notwithstanding holding on to everything I could catch, I +fell four times during the morning. + +With difficulty I reached the saloon, where the passengers had +assembled for breakfast. Scarcely had we taken out seats when an +enormous sea struck the ship, landed on the poop, dashed in the saloon +skylight, and flooded the table with water. This was a bad event for +those who had not had their breakfast. As I was mounting the cuddy +stairs, I met the captain coming down thoroughly soaked. He had been +knocked down, and had to hold on by a chain to prevent himself being +washed about the deck. The officer of the watch afterwards told me +that he had seen his head bobbing up and down amidst the water, of +which there were tons on the poop. + +This was what they call "shipping a green sea,"--so called because so +much water is thrown upon the deck that it ceases to have the frothy +appearance of smaller seas when shipped, but looks a mass of solid +green water. Our skipper afterwards told us at dinner that the captain +of the 'Essex' had not long ago been thrown by such a sea on to one of +the hen-coops that run round the poop, breaking through the iron bars, +and that he had been so bruised that he had not yet entirely recovered +from his injuries. Such is the tremendous force of water in violent +motion at sea.[2] + +When I went on deck again, the wind had somewhat abated, but the sea +was still very heavy. While on the poop, one enormous wave came +rolling on after us, seeming as if it must engulf the ship. But the +stern rose gradually and gracefully as the huge wave came on, and it +rolled along, bubbling over the sides of the main-deck, and leaving it +about two feet deep in water. As the day wore on the wind gradually +went down, and it seemed as if we were to have another spell of fine +weather. + +[Illustration: (Map of the Ship's Course, Plymouth to Melbourne)] + +Next morning the sun shone clear; the wind had nearly died away, +though a heavy swell still crossed our quarter. Thousands of sea-birds +flew about us, and clusters were to be seen off our stern, as far as +the eye could reach. They seemed, though on a much larger scale, to be +hanging upon our track, just as a flock of crows hang over the track +of a plough in the field, and doubtless for the same reason--to pick +up the food thrown up by the mighty keel of our ship. Most of them +were ice-birds, blue petrels, and whale-birds, with a large admixture +of albatrosses and Mother Carey's chickens. One of the passengers +caught and killed one of the last-named birds, at which the captain +was rather displeased, the sailors having a superstition about these +birds, that it is unlucky to kill them. An ice-bird was caught, and a +very pretty bird it is, almost pure white, with delicate blue feet and +beak. Another caught a Cape pigeon, and I caught a stink-pot, a large +bird measuring about eight feet from wing to wing. The bird was very +plucky when got on deck, and tried to peck at us; but we soon had him +down. As his plumage was of no use, we fastened a small tin-plate to +his leg, with 'Yorkshire' scratched on it, and let him go. But it was +some time before he rose from his waddling on the deck, spread his +wings, and sailed into the air. + +Some of the passengers carry on shooting at the numerous birds from +the stern of the ship; but it is cruel sport. It may be fun to us, but +it is death to the birds. And not always death. Poor things! It is a +pitiful sight to see one of them, pricked or winged, floating away +with its wounds upon it, until quite out of sight. Such sport seems +cruel, if it be not cowardly. + +_23rd April_.--We are now in latitude 45.16 deg. south, and the captain +tells us that during the night we may probably sight the Crozet +Islands. It seems that these islands are inaccurately marked on the +charts, some of even the best authorities putting them from one and a +half to two degrees out both in latitude and longitude, as the captain +showed us by a late edition of a standard work on navigation. Once he +came pretty well south on purpose to sight them; but when he reached +the precise latitude in which, according to his authority, they were +situated, they were not to be seen. + +At 8 P.M. the man on the look-out gave the cry of "Land ho!" "Where +away?" "On the lee beam." I strained my eyes in the direction +indicated, but could make out nothing like land. I could see +absolutely nothing but water all round. Two hours passed before I +could discern anything which could give one the idea of land--three +small, misty, cloud-looking objects, lying far off to the south, which +were said to be the islands. In about an hour more we were within +about five miles of Les Apotres, part of the group, having passed +Cochon in the distance. Cochon is so called because of the number of +wild pigs on the island. The largest, Possession Island, gave refuge +to the shipwrecked crew of a whaler for about two years, when they +were at length picked off by a passing ship. The Crozets are of +volcanic origin, and some of them present a curious, conical, and +sometimes fantastic appearance, more particularly Les Apotres. The +greater number of them are quite barren, the only vegetation of the +others consisting of a few low stunted bushes. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 1: It may, however, be added, that though we did not again +sight the 'George Thompson' during our voyage, she arrived at +Melbourne about forty-eight hours before our ship.] + +[Footnote 2: Mr. G. Stevenson registered a force of three tons per +square foot at Skerryvore during a gale in the Atlantic, when the +waves were supposed to be twenty feet high.] + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +NEARING AUSTRALIA--THE LANDING. + +ACTING ON BOARD--THE CYCLONE--CLEANING THE SHIP FOR PORT--CONTRARY +WINDS--AUSTRALIA IN SIGHT--CAPE OTWAY--PORT PHILLIP HEADS--PILOT TAKEN +ON BOARD--INSIDE THE HEADS--WILLIAMSTOWN--SANDRIDGE--THE LANDING. + + +More theatricals! 'Sir Dagobert and the Dragon' is played, and comes +off very well. The extemporised dresses and "properties" are the most +amusing of all. The company next proceed to get up 'Aladdin and the +Wonderful Scamp' to pass the time, which hangs heavy on our hands. We +now begin to long for the termination of our voyage. We have sailed +about 10,000 miles, but have still about 3000 more before us. + +_30th April_.--To-day we have made the longest run since we left +Plymouth, not less than 290 miles in twenty-four hours. We have before +made 270, but then the sea was smooth, and the wind fair. Now the wind +is blowing hard on our beam, with a heavy sea running. About 3 P.M. we +sighted a barque steering at right angles to our course. In a short +time we came up with her, and found that she was the Dutch barque +'Vrede,' ninety-eight days from Amsterdam and bound for Batavia. She +crossed so close to our stern that one might almost have pitched a +biscuit on board. + +During the night the sea rose, the wind blowing strong across our +beam, and the ship pitched and rolled as she is said never to have +done since she was built. There was not much sleep for us that night. +The wind increased to a strong gale, until at length it blew quite a +hurricane. It was scarcely possible to stand on deck. The wind felt as +if it blew solid. The ship was driving furiously along under +close-reefed topsails. Looking over the side, one could only see the +black waves, crested with foam, scudding past. + +It appears that we are now in a cyclone--not in the worst part of it, +but in the inner edge of the outside circle. Skilful navigators know +by experience how to make their way out of these furious ocean winds, +and our captain was equal to the emergency. In about seven hours we +were quite clear of it, though the wind blew fresh, and the ship +rolled heavily, the sea continuing for some time in a state of great +agitation. + +For some days the wind keeps favourable, and our ship springs forward +as if she knew her port, and was eager to reach it. A few more days +and we may be in sight of Australia. We begin almost to count the +hours. In anticipation of our arrival, the usual testimonial to the +captain is set on foot, all being alike ready to bear testimony to his +courtesy and seamanship. On deck, the men began to holystone the +planks, polish up the brasswork, and make everything shipshape for +port. The middies are at work here on the poop, each "with a sharp +knife and a clear conscience," cutting away pieces of tarry rope. New +ratlines are being fastened up across the shrouds. The standing +rigging is re-tarred and shines black. The deck is fresh scraped as +well as the mizen-mast, and the white paint-pot has been used freely. + +_9th May._--We are now in Australian waters, sailing along under the +lee of Cape Leeuwin, though the land is not yet in sight. Australian +birds are flying about our ship, unlike any we have yet seen. We beat +up against the wind which is blowing off the land, our yards slewed +right round. It is provoking to be so near the end of our voyage, and +blown back when almost in sight of port. + +_14th May._--After four days of contrary wind, it changed again, and +we are now right for Melbourne. Our last theatrical performance came +off with great _eclat_. The captain gave his parting supper after the +performance; and the _menu_ was remarkable, considering that we had +been out eighty-one days from Gravesend. There were ducks, fowls, +tongues, hams, with lobster-salads, oyster pattes, jellies, +blanc-manges, and dessert. Surely the art of preserving fresh meat and +comestibles must have nearly reached perfection. To wind up, songs +were sung, toasts proposed, and the captain's testimonial was +presented amidst great enthusiasm. + +_18th May._--We sighted the Australian land to-day about thirteen +miles off Cape Otway. The excitement on board was very great; and no +wonder, after so long a voyage. Some were going home there, to rejoin +their families, relatives, and friends. Others were going there for +pleasure or for health. Perhaps the greater number regarded it as the +land of their choice--a sort of promised land--where they were to make +for themselves a home, and hoped to carve out for themselves a road to +competency if not to fortune. + +We gradually neared the land, until we were only about five miles +distant from it. The clouds lay low on the sandy shore; the dark-green +scrub here and there reaching down almost to the water's edge. The +coast is finely undulating, hilly in some places, and well wooded. +Again we beat off the land, to round Cape Otway, whose light we see. +Early next morning we signal the lighthouse, and the news of our +approaching arrival will be forthwith telegraphed to Melbourne. The +wind, however, dies away when we are only about thirty miles from Port +Phillip Heads, and there we lie idly becalmed the whole afternoon, the +ship gently rolling in the light-blue water, the sails flapping +against the masts, or occasionally drawing half full, with a fitful +puff of wind. Our only occupation was to watch the shore, and with the +help of the telescope we could make out little wooden huts half hidden +in the trees, amidst patches of cultivated land. As the red sun set +over the dark-green hills, there sprang up the welcome evening breeze, +which again filled our canvas, and the wavelets licked the ship's +sides as she yielded to the wind, and at last sped us on to Port +Phillip. + +At midnight we are in sight of the light at the entrance of the bay. +Then we are taken in tow by a tug, up to the Heads, where we wait +until sunrise for our pilot to come on board. The Heads are low necks +of sandy hillocks, one within another, that guard the entrance to the +extensive bay of Port Phillip. On one side is Point Lonsdale, and on +the other Point Nepean. + +_21st May._--Our pilot comes on board early, and takes our ship in +charge. He is a curious-looking object, more like a Jew bailiff than +anything else I can think of, and very unlike an English "salt." But +the man seems to know his work, and away we go, tugged by our steamer. + +A little inside the Heads, we are boarded by the quarantine officer, +who inquires as to the health of the ship, which is satisfactory, and +we proceed up the bay. Shortly after, we pass, on the west, +Queenscliffe, a pretty village built on a bit of abrupt headland, the +houses of which dot the green sward. The village church is a pleasant +object in the landscape. We curiously spy the land as we pass. By the +help of the telescope we can see signs of life on shore. We observe, +amongst other things, an early tradesman's cart, drawn by a +fast-trotting pony, driving along the road. More dwellings appear, +amidst a pretty, well cultivated, rolling landscape. + +At length we lose sight of the shore, proceeding up the bay towards +Melbourne, which is nearly some 30 miles distant, and still below the +horizon. Sailing on, the tops of trees rise up; then low banks of +sand, flat tracts of bush, and, slightly elevated above them, +occasional tracts of clear yellow space. Gradually rising up in the +west, distant hills come in sight; and, towards the north, an +undulating region is described, stretching round the bay inland. + +We now near the northern shore, and begin to perceive houses, and +ships, and spires. The port of Williamstown comes in sight, full of +shipping, as appears by the crowd of masts. Outside of it is Her +Majesty's ship 'Nelson,' lying at anchor. On the right is the village +or suburb of St. Kilda, and still further round is Brighton. +Sandridge, the landing-place of Melbourne, lies right ahead of us, and +over the masts of shipping we are pointed to a mass of houses in the +distance, tipped with spires and towers, and are told, "There is the +city of Melbourne!" + +At 5 P.M. we were alongside the large wooden railway-pier of +Sandridge, and soon many of our fellow-passengers were in the arms of +their friends and relatives. Others, of whom I was one, had none to +welcome us; but, like the rest, I took my ticket for Melbourne, only +some three miles distant; and in the course of another quarter of an +hour I found myself safely landed in the great city of the Antipodes. + +[Illustration: (View of Melbourne, Victoria)] + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +MELBOURNE. + +FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF MELBOURNE--SURVEY OF THE CITY--THE +STREETS--COLLINS STREET--THE TRAFFIC--NEWNESS AND YOUNGNESS OF +MELBOURNE--ABSENCE OF BEGGARS--MELBOURNE AN ENGLISH CITY--THE CHINESE +QUARTER--THE PUBLIC LIBRARY--PENTRIDGE PRISON--THE YARRA RIVER--ST. +KILDA--SOCIAL EXPERIENCES IN MELBOURNE--A MARRIAGE BALL--MELBOURNE +LADIES--VISIT TO A SERIOUS FAMILY. + + +I arrive in Melbourne towards evening, and on stepping out of the +railway-train find myself amidst a glare of gas lamps. Outside the +station the streets are all lit up, the shops are brilliant with +light, and well-dressed people are moving briskly about. + +What is this large building in Bourke Street, with the crowd standing +about? It is the Royal Theatre. A large stone-faced hall inside the +portico, surrounded by bars brilliantly lit, is filled with young men +in groups lounging about, talking and laughing. At the further end of +the vestibule are the entrances to the different parts of the house. + +Further up the same street, I come upon a large market-place, in a +blaze of light, where crowds of people are moving about, buying +vegetables, fruit, meat, and such like. At the further end of the +street the din and bustle are less, and I see a large structure +standing in an open space, looking black against the starlit sky. I +afterwards find that it is the Parliament House. + +Such is my first introduction to Melbourne. It is evidently a place +stirring with life. After strolling through some of the larger +streets, and everywhere observing the same indications of wealth, and +traffic, and population, I took the train for Sandridge, and slept a +good sound sleep in my bunk on board the 'Yorkshire' for the last +time. + +Next morning I returned to Melbourne in the broad daylight, when I was +able to make a more deliberate survey of the city. I was struck by the +width and regularity of some of the larger streets, and by the +admirable manner in which they are paved and kept. The whole town +seems to have been laid out on a systematic plan, which some might +think even too regular and uniform. But the undulating nature of the +ground on which the city is built serves to correct this defect, if +defect it be. + +The streets are mostly laid out at right angles; broad streets one +way, and alternate broad and narrow streets crossing them. Collins and +Bourke Streets are, perhaps, the finest. The view from the high +ground, at one end of Collins Street, looking down the hollow of the +road, and right away up the hill on the other side, is very striking. +This grand street, of great width, is probably not less than a mile +long. On either side are the principal bank buildings, tall and +handsome. Just a little way up the hill, on the further side, is a +magnificent white palace-like structure, with a richly ornamented +facade and tower. That is the New Town Hall. Higher up is a fine +church spire, and beyond it a red brick tower, pricked out with +yellow, standing in bold relief against the clear blue sky. You can +just see Bourke and Wills' monument there, in the centre of the +roadway. And at the very end of the perspective, the handsome grey +front of the Treasury bounds the view. + +Amongst the peculiarities of the Melbourne streets are the deep, broad +stone gutters, on either side of the roadway, evidently intended for +the passage of a very large quantity of water in the rainy season. +They are so broad as to render it necessary to throw little wooden +bridges over them at the street-crossings. I was told that these open +gutters are considered by no means promotive of the health of the +inhabitants, which one can readily believe; and it is probable that +before long they will be covered up. + +Walk over Collins and Bourke Street at nine or ten in the morning, and +you meet the business men of Melbourne on their way from the +railway-station to their offices in town: for the greater number of +them, as in London, live in the suburbs. The shops are all open, +everything looking bright and clean. Pass along the same streets in +the afternoon, and you will find gaily-dressed ladies flocking the +pathways. The shops are bustling with customers. There are many +private carriages to be seen, with two-wheeled cars, on which the +passengers sit back to back, these (with the omnibuses) being the +public conveyances of Melbourne. Collins Street may be regarded as the +favourite promenade; more particularly between three and four in the +afternoon, when shopping is merely the excuse of its numerous +fashionable frequenters. + +One thing struck me especially--the very few old or grey-haired people +one meets with in the streets of Melbourne. They are mostly young +people; and there are comparatively few who have got beyond the middle +stage of life. And no wonder. For how young a city Melbourne is! Forty +years since there was not a house in the place. + +Where the Melbourne University now stands, a few miserable Australian +blacks would meet and hold a corroboree; but, except it might be a +refugee bush-ranger from Sydney, there was not a white man in all +Victoria. The first settler, John Batman,[3] arrived in the harbour +of Port Phillip as recently as the year 1835, since which time the +colony has been planted, the city of Melbourne has been built, and +Victoria covered with farms, mines, towns, and people. When Sir Thomas +Mitchell first visited the colony in 1836, though comprehending an +area of more than a hundred thousand square miles, it did not contain +200 white people. In 1845 the population had grown to 32,000; +Melbourne had been founded, and was beginning to grow rapidly; now it +contains a population of about 200,000 souls, and is already the +greatest city in the Southern Hemisphere. + +No wonder, therefore, that the population of Melbourne should be +young. It consists for the most part of immigrants from Great Britain +and other countries,--of men and women in the prime of life,--pushing, +enterprising, energetic people. Nor is the stream of immigration +likely to stop soon. The land in the interior is not one-tenth part +occupied; and "the cry is, still they come." Indeed many think the +immigrants do not come quickly enough. Every ship brings a fresh +batch; and the "new chums" may be readily known, as they assemble in +knots at the corners of the streets, by their ruddy colour, their +gaping curiosity, and their home looks. + +Another thing that strikes me in Melbourne is this,--that I have not +seen a beggar in the place. There is work for everybody who will work; +so there is no excuse for begging. A great many young fellows who come +out here no doubt do not meet with the fortune they think they +deserve. They expected that a few good letters of introduction were +all that was necessary to enable them to succeed. But they are soon +undeceived. They must strip to work, if they would do any good. Mere +clerks, who can write and add up figures, are of no use; the colony is +over-stocked with them. But if they are handy, ready to work, and +willing to turn their hand to anything, they need never be without the +means of honest living. + +In many respects Melbourne is very like home. It looks like a slice of +England transplanted here, only everything looks fresher and newer. Go +into Fitzroy or Carlton Gardens in the morning, and you will see +almost the self-same nurses and children that you saw in the Parks in +London. At dusk you see the same sort of courting couples mooning +about, not knowing what next to say. In the streets you see a corps of +rifle volunteers marching along, just as at home, on Saturday +afternoons. Down at Sandridge you see the cheap-trip steamer, decked +with flags, taking a boat-load of excursionists down the bay to some +Australian Margate or Ramsgate. On the wooden pier the same +steam-cranes are at work, loading and unloading trucks. + +One thing, however, there is at Melbourne that you cannot see in any +town in England, and that is the Chinese quarter. There the streets +are narrower and dirtier than anywhere else, and you see the +yellow-faced folks stand jabbering at their doors--a very novel sight. +The Chinamen, notwithstanding the poll-tax originally imposed on them +of 10_l._ a head, have come into Victoria in large and increasing +numbers, and before long they threaten to become a great power in the +colony. They are a very hardworking, but, it must be confessed, a very +low class, dirty people. + +Though many of the Chinamen give up their native dress and adopt the +European costume, more particularly the billycock hat, there is one +part of their belongings that they do not part with even in the last +extremity--and that is their tail. They may hide it away in their +billycock or in the collar of their coat; but, depend upon it, the +tail is there. My friend, the doctor of the 'Yorkshire,' being a +hunter after natural curiosities, had, amongst other things, a great +ambition to possess himself of a Chinaman's tail. One day, walking up +Collins Street, I met my enthusiastic friend. He recognised me, and +waved something about frantically that he had in his hand. "I've got +it! I've got it!" he exclaimed, in a highly excited manner. "What have +you got?" I asked, wondering. "Come in here," said he, "and I'll show +it you." We turned into a bar, when he carefully undid his parcel, and +exposed to view a long black thing. "What _is_ it?" I asked. "A +Chinaman's pigtail, of course," said he, triumphantly; "and a very +rare curiosity it is, I can assure you." + +Among the public institutes of Melbourne one of the finest is the +Public Library, already containing, I was told, about 80,000 volumes. +It is really a Library for the People, and a noble one too. So far as +I can learn, there is nothing yet in England that can be compared +with it.[4] Working men come here, and read at their leisure +scientific books, historical books, or whatever they may desire. They +may come in their working dress, signing their names on entering, the +only condition required of them being quietness and good behaviour. +About five hundred readers use the library daily. + +Nor must I forget the Victorian collection of pictures, in the same +building as the Public Library. The galleries are good, and contain +many attractive paintings. Amongst them I noticed Goodall's 'Rachel at +the Well,' Cope's 'Pilgrim Fathers' (a replica), and some excellent +specimens of Chevalier, a rising colonial artist. + +The Post Office is another splendid building, one of the most +commodious institutions of the kind in the world. There the arrival of +each mail from England is announced by the hoisting of a large red +flag, with the letter A (arrival). + +In evidence of the advanced "civilization" of Melbourne, let me also +describe a visit which I paid to its gaol. But it is more than a gaol, +for it is the great penal establishment of the colony. The prison at +Pentridge is about eight miles from Melbourne. Accompanied by a +friend, I was driven thither in a covered car along a very dusty but +well-kept road. Alighting at the castle-like entrance to the +principal courtyard, we passed through a small doorway, behind which +was a strong iron-bar gate, always kept locked, and watched by a +warder. The gate was unlocked, and we shortly found ourselves in the +great prison area, in the presence of sundry men in grey prison +uniform, with heavy irons on. Passing across the large clean yard, we +make for a gate in the high granite wall at its further side. A key is +let down to us by the warder, who is keeping armed watch in his +sentry-box on the top of the wall. We use it, let ourselves in, lock +the door, and the key is hauled up again. + +We enter the female prison, where we are shown the cells, each with +its small table and neatly-folded mattress. On the table is a Bible +and Prayer-book, and sometimes a third book for amusement or +instruction. In some of the cells, where the inmates are learning to +read and write, there is a spelling primer and a copybook for +pothooks. The female prisoners are not in their cells, but we shortly +after find them assembled in a large room above, seated and at work. +They all rose at our entrance, and I had a good look at their faces. +There was not a single decent honest face amongst them. They were +mostly heavy, square-jawed, hard-looking women. Judging by their +faces, vice and ugliness would seem to be pretty nearly akin. + +We were next taken to the centre of the prison, from which we looked +down upon the narrow, high-walled yards, in which the prisoners +condemned to solitary confinement take their exercise. These yards +all radiate from a small tower, in which a warder is stationed, +carefully watching the proceedings below. + +We shortly saw the prisoners of Department A coming in from their +exercise in the yard. Each wore a white mask on his face with eyeholes +in it; and no prisoner must approach another nearer than five yards, +at risk of severe punishment. The procession was a very dismal one. In +the half-light of the prison they marched silently on one by one, with +their faces hidden, each touching his cap as he passed. + +Department B came next. The men here do not work in their separate +cells, like the others, but go out to work in gangs, guarded by armed +warders. The door of each cell throughout the prison has a small hole +in it, through which the warders, who move about the galleries in list +shoes, can peep in, and, unknown to the prisoner, see what he is +about. + +Both male and female prisons have Black Holes attached to them for the +solitary confinement of the refractory. Dreadful places they look: +small cells about ten feet by four, into which not a particle of light +is admitted. Three thick doors, one within another, render it +impossible for the prisoner inside to make himself heard without. + +Next comes Department C, in which the men finish their time. Here many +sleep in one room, always under strict watch, being employed during +the day at their respective trades, or going out in gangs to work in +the fields connected with the establishment. Connected with this +department is a considerable factory, with spinning-machines, +weaving-frames, and dye vats; the whole of the clothes and blankets +used in the gaol being made by the prisoners, as well as the blankets +supplied by the Government to the natives. Adjoining are blacksmiths' +shops, where manacles are forged; shoemakers' shops; tailors' shops; a +bookbinder's shop, where the gaol books are bound; and shops for +various other crafts. + +The prison library is very well furnished with books. Dickens's and +Trollope's works are there, and I saw a well-read copy of 'Self-Help,' +though it was doubtless through a very different sort of self-help +that most of the prisoners who perused it had got there. + +Last of all, we saw the men searched on coming in from their work in +the fields, or in the different workshops. They all stood in a line +while the warder passed his hands down their bodies and legs, and +looked into their hats. Then he turned to a basin of water standing +by, and carefully washed his hands. + +There were about 700 prisoners of both sexes in the gaol when we +visited it. I was told that the walls of the prison enclose an area of +132 acres, so that there is abundance of space for all kinds of work. +On the whole it was a very interesting, but at the same time a sad +sight. + +I think very little of the River Yarra Yarra, on which Melbourne is +situated. It is a muddy, grey-coloured stream, very unpicturesque. It +has, however, one great advantage over most other Australian rivers, +as indicated by its name, which in the native language means the +"ever-flowing;" many of the creeks and rivers in Australia being dry +in summer. I hired a boat for the purpose of a row up the Yarra. A +little above the city its banks are pretty and ornamental, especially +where it passes the Botanic Gardens, which are beautifully laid out, +and well stocked with India-rubber plants, gum-trees, and magnificent +specimens of the Southern fauna. Higher up, the river--though its +banks continue green--becomes more monotonous, and we soon dropped +back to Melbourne with the stream. + +It is the seaside of Melbourne that is by far the most +interesting,--Williamstown, with its shipping; but more especially the +pretty suburbs, rapidly growing into towns, along the shores of the +Bay of Port Phillip--such as St. Kilda, Elsternwick, Brighton, and +Cheltenham. You see how they preserve the old country names. St. Kilda +is the nearest to Melbourne, being only about three miles distant by +rail, and it is the favourite resort of the Melbourne people. Indeed, +many of the first-class business men reside there, just as Londoners +do at Blackheath and Forest Hill. The esplanade along the beach is a +fine promenade, and the bathing along shore is exceedingly good. There +are large enclosures for bathers, surrounded by wooden piles; above +the enclosure, raised high on platforms, are commodious +dressing-rooms, where, instead of being cooped up in an uncomfortable +bathing-machine, you may have a lounge outside in the bright sunshine +while you dress. The water is a clear blue, and there is a sandy +bottom sloping down from the shore into any depth,--a glorious +opportunity for swimmers! + +I must now tell you something of my social experiences in Melbourne. +Thanks to friends at home, I had been plentifully supplied with +letters of introduction to people in the colony. When I spoke of these +to old colonials in the 'Yorkshire,' I was told that they were "no +good"--no better than so many "tickets for soup," if worth even that. +I was, therefore, quite prepared for a cool reception; but, +nevertheless, took the opportunity of delivering my letters shortly +after landing. + +So far from being received with coldness, I was received with the +greatest kindness wherever I went. People who had never seen me +before, and who knew nothing of me or my family, gave me a welcome +that was genuine, frank, and hearty in the extreme. My letters, I +found, were far more than "tickets for soup." They introduced me to +pleasant companions and kind friends, who entertained me hospitably, +enabled me to pass my time pleasantly, and gave me much practical good +advice. Indeed, so far as my experience goes, the hospitality of +Victoria ought to become proverbial. + +One of the first visits I made was to a recent school-fellow of mine +at Geneva. I found him at work in a bank, and astonished him very much +by the suddenness of my appearance. He was most kind to me during my +stay in Melbourne, as well as all his family, to whom I owed a +succession of kindnesses which I can never forget. + +I shall always retain a pleasant recollection of a marriage festivity +to which I was invited within a week after my arrival. A ball was +given in the evening, at which about 300 persons were present--the +_elite_ of Melbourne society. It was held in a large marquee, with a +splendid floor, and ample space for dancing. Everything was ordered +very much the same as at home. The dresses of the ladies seemed more +costly, the music was probably not so good, though very fair, and the +supper rather better. I fancy there was no "contract champagne" at +that ball. + +One thing I must remark about the ladies--they seemed to me somehow a +little different in appearance. Indeed, when I first landed, I fancied +I saw a slightly worn look, a want of freshness, in the people +generally. They told me there that it is the effect of the dry +Australian climate and the long summer heat, native-born Australians +having a tendency to grow thin and lathy. Not that there was any want +of beauty about the Melbourne girls, or that they were not up to the +mark in personal appearance. On the contrary, there was quite a bevy +of belles, some of them extremely pretty girls, most tastefully +dressed, and I thought the twelve bridesmaids, in white silk trimmed +with blue, looked charming. + +I spent a very pleasant evening with this gay company, and had my fill +of dancing after my long privation at sea. When I began to step out, +the room seemed to be in motion. I had got so accustomed to the roll +of the ship that I still felt unsteady, and when I put my foot down it +went further than I expected before it touched the floor. But I soon +got quit of my sea legs, which I had so much difficulty in finding. + +Before concluding my few Melbourne experiences, I will mention another +of a very different character from the above. I was invited to spend +the following Saturday and Sunday with a gentleman and his family. I +was punctual to my appointment, and was driven by my carman up to the +door of a new house in a very pretty situation. I was shown into the +drawing-room, where I waited some time for the mistress of the house +to make her appearance. She was a matronly person, with a bland smile +on her countenance. Her dress was of a uniform grey, with trimmings of +the same colour. We tried conversation, but somehow it failed. I fear +my remarks were more meaningless than usual on such occasions. +Certainly the lady and I did not hit it at all. She asked me if I had +heard such and such a Scotch minister, or had read somebody's sermons +which she named? Alas! I had not so much as heard of their names. +Judging by her looks, she must have thought me an ignoramus. For a +mortal hour we sat together, almost in silence, her eyes occasionally +directed full upon me. We were for the moment relieved by the entrance +of a young lady, one of the daughters of the house, who was introduced +to me. But, alas! we got on no better than before. The young lady sat +with downcast eyes, intent upon her knitting, though I saw that her +eyes were black, and that she was pretty. + +Then the master of the house came home, and we had dinner in a quiet, +sober fashion. In the evening the lady and I made a few further +efforts at conversation. I was looking at the books on the +drawing-room table, when she all at once brightened up, and +asked--"Have you ever heard of Robbie Burns?" I answered (I fear +rather chaffingly) that "I had once heard there was such a person." +"Have you, tho'?" said the lady, relapsing into crochet. The gentleman +went off to sleep, and the young lady continued absorbed in her +knitting. A little later in the evening the hostess made a further +effort. "Have you ever tasted whisky toddy?" To which I answered, +"Yes, once or twice," at which she seemed astonished. But the whisky +toddy, which might have put a little spirit into the evening, did not +make its appearance. The subject of the recent marriage festivity +having come up, the lady was amazed to find I had been there, and that +I was fond of dancing! I fear this sent me down a great many more pegs +in her estimation. In fact, my evening was a total failure, and I was +glad to get to bed--though it was an immense expanse of bed, big +enough for a dozen people. + +To make a long story short, next morning I went with the family to +"the kirk," heard an awfully long sermon, during which I nipped my +fingers to keep myself awake; and as soon as I could I made my escape +back to my lodgings, very well pleased to get away, but feeling that I +must have left a very unfavourable impression upon the minds of my +worthy entertainers. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 3: Mr. Batman died in September, 1869, at the age of 77, and +his funeral was one of the largest ever seen in Melbourne. This +"father of Melbourne" kept the first store, and published the first +newspaper in the settlement.] + +[Footnote 4: The public library was inaugurated under Mr. La Trobe's +Government in 1853, when 4,000_l._ was voted for books and an edifice. +The sum was doubled in the following year, and greatly increased in +succeeding years. In 1863, 40,000_l._ of public money had been +expended on the building, and 30,000_l._ on the library.] + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +UP COUNTRY. + +OBTAIN A SITUATION IN AN UP-COUNTRY BANK--JOURNEY BY +RAIL--CASTLEMAINE--FURTHER JOURNEY BY COACH--MARYBOROUGH--FIRST SIGHT +OF THE BUSH--THE BUSH TRACKS--EVENING PROSPECT OVER THE +COUNTRY--ARRIVAL AT MY DESTINATION. + + +I had now been in Melbourne some weeks, and the question arose--What +next? I found the living rather expensive, and that it was making a +steady drain upon my funds. I had the option of a passage home, or of +staying in the colony if I could find some employment wherewith to +occupy myself profitably in the meanwhile. But I could not remain much +longer idle, merely going about visiting and enjoying myself. + +I took an opportunity of consulting the eminent physician, Dr. +Halford, who pronounced my lungs sound, but recommended me, because of +the sudden changes of temperature to which Melbourne is liable, either +to return home immediately, in order to establish the benefit I had +derived from the voyage, or, if I remained, to proceed up country, +north of the Dividing Range, where the temperature is more equable. + +I accordingly determined to make the attempt to obtain some settled +employment in the colony that might enable me to remain in it a +little longer. I found that there were many fellows, older and more +experienced than myself, who had been knocking about Melbourne for +some time, unable to find berths. It is quite natural that the young +men of the colony, desirous of entering merchants' houses, banks, or +insurance offices, should have the preference over new comers; and +hence those young men who come here, expecting to drop into clerk's +offices, soon find themselves _de trop_, and that they are a drug in +the market. + +The prospect of obtaining such employment in my own case did not, +therefore, look very bright; yet I could but try and fail, as others +had done. In the last event there was the passage home, of which I +could avail myself. Well, I tried, and tried again, and at last +succeeded, thanks to the friendly gentlemen in Melbourne who so kindly +interested themselves in my behalf. In my case luck must have helped +me: for I am sure I did not owe my success to any special knowledge. +But happy I was when, after a great deal of running about, it was at +length communicated to me that there was a vacancy in an up-country +branch of one of the principal colonial banking companies, which was +open to my acceptance. + +[Illustration: MAP OF THE GOLD-MINING DISTRICT, VICTORIA.] + +I took the position at once, and made my arrangements for starting to +enter upon the duties of the office forthwith. I of course knew +nothing of the country in which the branch bank was situated, +excepting that it was in what is called a digging township--that is, +a township in which digging for gold is the principal branch of +industry. When I told my companions what occupation I had before me, +and where I was going, they tried to frighten me. They pictured to me +a remote place, with a few huts standing on a gravelly hill, +surrounded by holes and pools of mud. "A wretched life you will lead +up there," they said; "depend upon it, you will never be able to bear +it, and we shall see you back in Melbourne within a month, disgusted +with up-country life." "Well, we shall see," I said: "I am resolved to +give it a fair trial, and in the worst event I can go home by the next +Money Wigram." + +After the lapse of two days from the date of my appointment, I was at +the Spencer Street Station of the Victoria Railway, and booked for +Castlemaine, a station about eighty miles from Melbourne. Two of my +fellow-passengers by the 'Yorkshire' were there to see me off, wishing +me all manner of kind things. Another parting, and I was off +up-country. What would it be like? What sort of people were they +amongst whom I was to live? What were to be my next experiences? + +We sped rapidly over the flat, lowly-undulating, and comparatively +monotonous country north of Melbourne, until we reached the Dividing +Range, a mountainous chain, covered with dark-green scrub, separating +Bourke from Dalhousie County, where the scenery became more varied and +interesting. + +In the railway-carriage with me was a boy of about twelve or +fourteen, who at once detected in me a "new chum," as recent arrivals +in the colony are called. We entered into conversation, when I found +he was going to Castlemaine, where he lived. He described it as a +large up-country town, second only to Ballarat and Melbourne. But I +was soon about to see the place with my own eyes, for we were already +approaching it; and before long I was set down at the Castlemaine +Station, from whence I was to proceed to my destination by coach. + +The town of Castlemaine by no means came up to the description of my +travelling companion. Perhaps I had expected too much, and was +disappointed. The place is built on the site of what was once a very +great rush, called Forest Creek. Gold was found in considerable +abundance, and attracted a vast population into the neighbourhood. But +other and richer fields having been discovered, the rush went +elsewhere, leaving behind it the deposit of houses now known as +Castlemaine.[5] It contains but few streets, and those not very good +ones. The houses are mostly small and low; the greater number are only +one-storied erections. Everything was quiet, with very little traffic +going on, and the streets had a most dead-alive look. + +The outskirts of the town presented a novel appearance. Small heaps of +gravelly soil, of a light-red colour, lying close to each other, +covered the ground in all directions, almost as far as the eye could +reach. The whole country seemed to have been turned over, dug about, +and abandoned; though I still observed here and there pools of red +muddy water, and a few men digging, searching for gold amongst the old +workings. + +I put up at one of the hotels, to wait there until the coach started +at midnight. The place was very dull, the streets were very dull, and +everybody seemed to have gone to bed. At length the hours passed, and +the coach drew up. It was an odd-looking vehicle, drawn by four +horses. The body was simply hung on by straps, innocent of springs. +There were no windows to the carriage, but only leather aprons in +their place. This looked rather like rough travelling. + +Away we went at last, at a good pace, over a tolerably good road. +Soon, however, we began to jolt and pitch about, the carriage rolling +and rocking from side to side. There was only one passenger besides +myself, a solitary female, who sat opposite to me. I held on tight to +the woodwork of the coach, but, notwithstanding all my efforts, I got +pitched into the lady's lap more than once. She seemed to take it all +very coolly, however, as if it were a mere matter of course. + +After changing horses twice, and after a good deal more jolting, the +road became better and smoother; and then I observed, from the signs +outside, that we were approaching a considerable place. I was told +that it was Maryborough, and shortly after the coach pulled up at the +door of an hotel and I alighted. It was now between four and five in +the morning, so I turned into bed and had a sound sleep. + +I was wakened up by a young gentleman, who introduced himself to me as +one of my future "camarades" in the bank, to whom my arrival had been +telegraphed. After making a good breakfast I stepped on to the +verandah in front of the hotel, and the high street of Maryborough lay +before me. It seemed a nice, tidy town. The streets were white and +clean; the shops, now open, were some of brick, and others of wood. +The hotel in which I had slept was a two-storied brick building. Two +banks were in the main street, one of them a good building. Everything +looked spic-and-span new, very unlike our old-fashioned English +country towns. + +The township to which I was destined being distant about six miles +from Maryborough, I was driven thither in the evening,--full of +wonderment and curiosity as to the place to which I was bound. As we +got outside Maryborough into the open country, its appearance struck +me very much. It was the first time I had been amongst the gum-trees, +which grow so freely in all the southern parts of Australia. + +For a short distance out of the town the road was a made one, passing +through some old workings, shown by the big holes and heaps of gravel +that lay about. Further on, it became a mere hardened track, through +amongst trees and bushes, each driver choosing his own track. As soon +as one becomes the worse for wear, and the ruts in it are worn too +deep, a new one is selected. Some of these old ruts have a very ugly +look. Occasionally we pass a cottage with a garden, but no village is +in sight. The brown trees have a forlorn look; the pointed leaves seem +hardly to cover them. The bushes, too, that grow by the road-side, +seem straggling and scraggy: but, then, I must remember that it is +winter-time in Australia. + +At length we reach the top of a hill, from which there is a fine view +of the country beyond. I have a vivid recollection of my first glimpse +of a landscape which afterwards became so familiar to me. The dark +green trees stretched down into the valley and clothed the undulating +ground which lay toward the right. Then, on the greener and +flatter-looking country in front, there seemed to extend a sort of +whitish line--something that I could not quite make out. At first I +thought it must be a town in the distance, with its large white +houses. In the blue of the evening I could not then discern that what +I took to be houses were simply heaps of pipeclay. Further off, and +beyond all, was a background of brown hills, fading away in the +distance. Though it was winter time, the air was bright and clear, and +the blue sky was speckled with fleecy clouds. + +But we soon lose sight of the distant scene, as we rattle along +through the dust down-hill. We reach another piece of made road, +indicating our approach to a town; and very shortly we arrive at a +small township close by a creek. We pass a shed, in which stampers are +at work, driven by steam,--it is a quartz-mill; then a blacksmith's +shop; then an hotel, and other houses. I supposed this was to be my +location; but, no! The driver turns sharp off the high road down +towards the creek. It is a narrow stream of dirty-coloured water, +trickling along between two high banks. We drive down the steep on one +side and up the other with a tremendous pull, the buggy leaning +heavily to one side. On again, over a crab-holey plain, taking care to +avoid the stumps of trees and bad ground. Now we are in amongst the +piles of dirt which mark abandoned diggings. + +Another short bit of made road, and we are in the township. It is +still sufficiently light to enable me to read "Council Chambers" over +the door of a white-painted, shed-like, wooden erection of one story. +Then up the street, past the shops with their large canvas signs, +until at length we pull up alongside a wooden one-storied house, +roofed with iron, and a large wooden verandah projecting over the +pathway in front. The signboard over the door tells me this is the +Bank. I have reached my destination, and am safely landed in the town +of Majorca. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 5: Before railways were introduced, the town was a great +depot for goods going up-country to the different diggings.] + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +MAJORCA. + +MAJORCA FOUNDED IN A RUSH--DESCRIPTION OF A RUSH--DIGGERS CAMPING +OUT--GOLD-MINING AT MAJORCA--MAJORCA HIGH STREET--THE PEOPLE--THE +INNS--THE CHURCHES--THE BANK--THE CHINAMEN--AUSTRALIA THE PARADISE OF +WORKING MEN--"SHOUTING" FOR DRINKS--ABSENCE OF BEGGARS--NO COPPERS UP +COUNTRY. + + +In my school-days Majorca was associated in my mind with "Minorca and +Ivica," and I little thought to encounter a place of that name in +Australia. It seems that the town was originally so called because of +its vicinity to a rocky point called Gibraltar, where gold had been +found some time before. Like many other towns up country, the founding +of Majorca was the result of a rush. + +In the early days of gold-digging, when men were flocking into the +colony to hunt for treasure, so soon as the news got abroad of a great +nugget being found by some lucky adventurers, or of some rich +gold-bearing strata being struck, there was a sudden rush from all +quarters to the favoured spot. Such a rush occurred at Majorca in the +year 1863. + +Let me try to describe the scene in those early days of the township, +as it has been related to me by those who witnessed it. Fancy from +fourteen to fifteen thousand diggers suddenly drawn together in one +locality, and camped out in the bush within a radius of a mile and a +half. + +A great rush is a scene of much bustle and excitement. Long lines of +white tents overtop the heaps of pipeclay, which grow higher from day +to day. The men are hard at work on these hills of "mullock," plying +the windlasses by which the stuff is brought up from below, or +puddling and washing off "the dirt." Up come the buckets from the +shafts, down which the diggers are working, and the dirty yellow water +is poured down-hill to find its way to the creek as it best may. +Unmade roads, or rather tracks, run in and out amongst the claims, +knee-deep in mud; the ground being kept in a state of constant +sloppiness by the perpetual washing for the gold. Perhaps there is a +fight going on over the boundary-pegs of a claim which have been +squashed by a heavy dray passing along, laden with stores from +Castlemaine. + +The miners are attended by all manner of straggling followers, like +the sutlers following a camp. The life is a very rough one: hard work +and hard beds, heavy eating and heavy drinking. The diggers mostly +live in tents, for they are at first too much engrossed by their +search for gold to run up huts; but many of them sleep in the open air +or under the shelter of the trees. A pilot-coat or a pea-jacket is +protection enough for those who do not enjoy the luxury of a tent; but +the dryness and geniality of the climate are such that injury is very +rarely experienced from the night exposure. There are very few women +at the first opening of new diggings, the life is too rough and rude; +and some of those who do come, rock the cradle--but not the household +one--with the men. The diggers, however genteel the life they may have +led before, soon acquire a dirty, rough, unshaven look. Their coarse +clothes are all of a colour, being that of the clay and gravel in +which they work, and the mud with which they become covered when +digging. + +There is a crowd of men at an open bar drinking. Bar, indeed! It is +but a plank supported on two barrels; and across this improvised +counter the brandy bottle and glasses are eagerly plied. A couple of +old boxes in front serve for seats, while a piece of canvas, rigged on +two poles, shades off the fierce sun. Many a large fortune has been +made at a rude bar of this sort. For too many of the diggers, though +they work like horses, spend like asses. Here, again, in the long main +street of tents, where the shafts are often uncomfortably close to the +road, the tradesmen are doing a roaring business. Stalwart men, with +stout appetites, are laying in their stores of grocery, buying pounds +of flour, sugar, and butter--meat and bread in great quantities. The +digger thrusts his parcels indiscriminately into the breast of his +dirty jumper, a thick shirt; and away he goes, stuffed with groceries, +and perhaps a leg of mutton over his shoulder. In the evening some +four thousand camp fires in the valleys, along the gullies, and up the +sides of the hills, cast a lurid light over a scene, which, once +witnessed, can never be forgotten. + +There were, of course, the usual rowdies at Majorca as at other +rushes. But very soon a rough discipline was set up and held them in +check; then a local government was formed; and eventually order was +established. Although the neighbouring towns look down on "little +Majorca"--say it is the last place made--and tell of the riotous +doings at its first settlement, Majorca is quoted by Brough Smyth, +whose book on the gold-fields is the best authority on the subject, as +having been a comparatively orderly place, even in the earliest days +of the rush. He says, "Shortly after the workings were opened, it +presented a scene of busy industry, where there was more of order, +decency, and good behaviour than could probably be found in any mining +locality in England, or on the Continent of Europe."[6] + +The contrast, however, must be very great between the Majorca of +to-day and the Majorca of seven years since, when it was a great +gold-diggers' camp. It had its first burst, like all other celebrated +places in the gold-fields. As the shallower and richer ground became +worked out, the diggers moved off to some new diggings, and the first +glories of the Majorca rush gradually passed away. Still, the place +continued prosperous. The mining was carried down into deeper strata. +But after a few years, the yield fell off, and the engines were +gradually withdrawn. Some few claims are doing well in new offshoots +of the lead, and the miners are vigorously following it up. Two engine +companies are pushing ahead and hoping for better things. Over at the +other side of the creek, in amongst the ranges, there is still plenty +of fair yielding quartz, which is being got out of mother earth; and +the miners consider that they have very fair prospects before them.[7] + +Indeed, Majorca has subsided into a comparatively quiet country place, +containing about 800 inhabitants. It is supported in a great measure +by the adjoining farming population. And I observed, during my stay at +the place, that the more prudent of the miners, when they had saved a +few hundred pounds--and some saved much more--usually retired from +active digging, and took to farming. The town consists, for the most +part, of one long street, situated on a rising ground. There are not +many buildings of importance in it. The houses are mostly of wood, +one-storied, and roofed with corrugated iron. There is only one brick +shop-front in the street, which so over-tops the others, that +malicious, perhaps envious, neighbours say it is sure to topple down +some day on to the footway. The shops are of the usual description, +grocers, bakers, butchers, and drapers; and the most frequent style of +shop is a store, containing everything from a pickaxe and tin dish +(for gold washing) to Perry Davis's patent Pain-killer. We have of +course our inns--the Imperial, where the manager of the bank and +myself lived; the Harp of Erin, the Irish rendezvous, as its name +imports, even its bar-room being papered with green; the German Hotel, +where the Verein is held, and over which the German tri-coloured flag +floats on fete-days; and there is also a Swiss restaurant, the +Guillaume Tell, with the Swiss flag and cap of liberty painted on its +white front. + +I must also mention the churches, standing off the main street, which +are the most prominent buildings in Majorca. The largest is the +Wesleyan Chapel, a substantial brick building, near which still stands +the old wooden shanty first erected and used in the time of the rush. +Then there is the Church of England, a neat though plain edifice, well +fitted and arranged. The Presbyterians worship in a battered-looking +wooden erection; and the Roman Catholics have a shed-like place, which +in week days is used as a school. + +Our inns and our churches will give you some idea of the population of +Majorca. I should say the most of it--the substance--is English. The +Irish are hard workers, but generally spendthrifts, though there are +some excellent exceptions. The Irish hold together in religion, +politics, and drink. The Scotch are not so numerous as the Irish, but +somehow they have a knack of getting on. They are not clannish like +the Irish. Each hangs by his own hook. Then there are the Germans, who +are pretty numerous, a very respectable body of men, with a sprinkling +of Italians and Swiss. The Germans keep up their old country fashions, +hold their Verein, meet and make speeches, sing songs, smoke pipes, +and drink thin wine. Lager-beer has not reached them yet. + +The building in Majorca in which I am, of course, most of all +interested, is that in which I officiate as "Accountant," the only +other officer in the bank being the "Manager." You will thus observe +that there are only officers in our establishment--all rank and no +file. Let me give you an idea of our building. Its walls are wooden, +with canvas inside, and its roof is of corrugated iron. The office +fronts the main street, and is fitted with a plain counter facing the +door, at one end of which are the gold-weighing scales, and at the +other the ledger-desk. Two rooms are attached to the office, in which +we sleep,--one behind, the other at the side. There is a pretty +little garden in the rear, a verandah covered with a thickly growing +Australian creeper (the Dolichos), sheltering us as we sit out there +occasionally, enjoying the quiet cool of the evenings, reading or +talking. + +You will thus observe that our establishment is by no means of a +stately order.[8] Indeed the place is not weather-proof. When the wind +blows, the canvas inside the boards flaps about, and, in my queer +little sleeping-room, when the rain falls it runs down the sides of +the canvas walls, and leaves large stains upon the gay paper. But I +contrived to make the little place look tolerably comfortable; hung it +round with photographs reminding me of relations and friends at home, +and at length I came quite to enjoy my little retreat. + +A look up and down the main street of Majorca is not particularly +lively at any time. Some of the shop-keepers are in front of their +stores, standing about under the verandahs which cover the pathway, +and lazily enjoying a pipe. At the upper end of the town the +blacksmith is busily at work shoeing some farmer's horses, in front of +the blazing smithy fire. Five or six diggers come slouching along, +just from their work, in their mud-bespattered trowsers and their +shirt sleeves, a pick or spade over their shoulders, and a tin "billy" +in their hands. But for the occasional rattle of a cart or buggy down +the street, the town would be lapped in quiet. + +Here comes a John Chinaman with his big basket of vegetables. And let +me tell you that the Chinamen, who live in the neighbourhood of the +town, form no unimportant part of our community. But for them where +should we be for our cabbages, cauliflowers, and early potatoes? They +are the most indefatigable and successful of gardeners. Every morning +three or four of them are seen coming into the town from their large +gardens near the creek, each with a pole across his shoulders, and a +heavily laden basket hanging from each end. What tremendous loads they +contrive to carry in this way! Try to lift one of their baskets, and +you will find you can hardly raise it from the ground. Then you see +the "Johns" moving along from house to house, selling their stuffs. It +takes a very clever woman to get the better of one of the Chinamen in +a bargain. I found, by watching closely, that those got best off who +chose what they wanted out of the basket, paid what they thought a +fair price, and stuck to their purchase. John would at last agree, but +go away grumbling. + +Of course there is not much in the way of what is called "society" at +this place. Like all the new towns in Australia, it consists for the +most part of a settlement of working people. Australia may, however, +be regarded as the paradise of working men, when they choose to avail +themselves of the advantages which it offers. Here there is always +plenty of profitable work for the industrious. Even Chinamen get +rich. The better sort of working families live far more comfortably +than our clerking or business young men do at home. The respectable +workman belongs to the Mechanics' Institute, where there is a very +good circulating library; he dresses well on Sundays, and goes to +church; hires a horse and takes a pleasure ride into the bush on +holidays; puts money in the bank, and when he has accumulated a fund, +builds a house for himself, or buys a lot of land and takes to +farming. Any steady working man can do all this here, and without any +difficulty. + +Where the digger or mechanic does not thrive and save money, the fault +is entirely due to his own improvidence. Living is cheap. Clothes are +dear, but the workman does not need to wear expensive clothes; and +food is reasonable. Good mutton sells at 3_d._ a pound, and bread at +6_d._ the four pound loaf. Thanks to the Chinamen also, vegetables are +moderate in price. Every one may, therefore, save money if he has the +mind to do so. But many spendthrifts seem to feel it a sort of +necessity to throw away their money as soon as they have earned it. Of +course, the chief source of waste here, as at home, is drink. There is +constant "shouting" for drinks--that is, giving drinks all round to my +acquaintances who may be present. And as one shouts, so another +follows with his shout, and thus a great deal of drink is swallowed. +Yet, I must say that, though there may be more drinking here than in +England, there is much less drunkenness. I have very seldom seen a man +really drunk during my stay in Majorca. Perhaps the pure dry +atmosphere may have something to do with it. But often, also, when +there is a shout, the call of many may be only for lemonade, or some +simple beverage of that sort. It must also be stated, as a plea for +men resorting so much as they do to public-houses, that there are few +other places where they can meet and exchange talk with each other. + +That everybody may thrive here who will, is evident from the utter +absence of beggars in Australia. I have not seen one regular +practitioner. An occasional "tramp" may be encountered hard up, and in +search of work. He may ask for assistance. He can have a glass of beer +at a bar, with a crust of bread, by asking for it. And he goes on his +way, most likely getting the employment of which he is in search at +the next township. The only beggars I ever encountered at Majorca are +genteel ones--the people who come round with lists, asking for +subscriptions in aid of bazaars for the building of churches and the +like. Nor did I find much of that horrid "tipping" which is such a +nuisance in England. You may "shout" a liquor if you choose, but +"tipping" would be considered an insult. + +There is an almost entire absence of coppers up country; the lowest +change is a threepenny bit, and you cannot well spend anything under a +sixpence. I never had any copper in my pocket, except only a lucky +farthing. Many asked me for it, to keep as a curiosity, saying they +had never seen one since they left home. But I would not part with my +farthing. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 6: The following is from Mr. Brough Smyth's book:-- + + "I need only now speak of Majorca. Here a prospecting shaft + was bottomed in the beginning of March, 1863, in the middle + of a very extensive plain, known as M'Cullum's Creek Plain. + The depth of the shaft was 85 feet, through thick clay, + gravel, and cement. The wash-dirt was white gravel, + intermixed with heavy boulders, on a soft pipeclay bottom; + its thickness being from 2 to 3 feet. It averaged in some + places 3 oz. to the load. Finally, a rush set in, and before + three months had elapsed there were more than 15,000 miners + on the ground. The sinking became deeper as the work went + on, and was so wet that whims had to be erected; and at one + time, in 1865, over 170 might have been seen at work, both + night and day. Subsequently steam machinery was procured, + and now no less than ten engines, varying from 15- to + 20-horse power, are constantly employed in pumping, winding, + and puddling. The lead in its lower part is 160 feet in + depth, and is evidently extending towards the Carisbrook, + Moolart, and Charlotte plains, where so much is expected by + all scientific men."--_Mr. E. O'Farrell, formerly Chairman + of the Mining Board of the Maryborough District.--Brough + Smyth_, pp. 98, 99. +] + +[Footnote 7: Since my return home, letters from Majorca inform me that +things have recently taken a turn for the better. Several of the +alluvial mining companies are getting gold in increased quantities. +New shafts have been bottomed on rich ground, and the remittances of +gold are gradually on the increase.] + +[Footnote 8: Since I left Majorca a neat and substantial brick +building has been erected for the purposes of the bank, in lieu of the +former wooden structure.] + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +MY NEIGHBOURHOOD AND NEIGHBOURS. + +"DINING OUT"--DIGGERS' SUNDAY DINNER--THE OLD WORKINGS--THE CHINAMEN'S +GARDENS--CHINAMEN'S DWELLINGS--THE CEMETERY--THE HIGH PLAINS--THE +BUSH--A RIDE THROUGH THE BUSH--THE SAVOYARD WOODCUTTER--VISIT TO A +SQUATTER. + + +There is no difficulty in making friends in Victoria. New chums from +home are always made welcome. They are invited out and hospitably +entertained by people of all classes. But for the many kind friends I +made in Majorca and its neighbourhood I should doubtless have spent a +very dull time there. As it was, the eighteen months I lived up +country passed pleasantly and happily. + +The very first Sunday I spent in Majorca I "dined out." I had no +letters of introduction, and therefore did not owe my dinner to +influence, but to mere free-and-easy hospitality. Nor did the party +with which I dined belong to the first circles, where letters of +introduction are of any use; for they were only a party of diggers. I +will explain how it happened. + +After church my manager invited me to a short walk in the +neighbourhood. We went in the direction of M'Cullum's Creek, about a +mile distant. This was the village at the creek which I passed on the +evening of my first drive from Maryborough. Crossing the creek, we +went up into the range of high ground beyond; and from the top of the +hill we had a fine view of the surrounding country. Majorca lay below, +glistening amidst its hillocks of pipeclay. The atmosphere was clear, +and the sky blue and cloudless. Though the town was two miles distant, +I could read some of the names on the large canvas sign-boards over +the hotel doors; and with the help of an opera-glass, I easily +distinguished the windows of a house six miles off. The day was fine +and warm, though it was mid-winter in June; for it must be borne in +mind that the seasons are reversed in this southern hemisphere. + +Descending the farther side of the hill, we dropped into a gully, +where we shortly came upon a little collection of huts roofed with +shingle. The residents were outside, some amusing themselves with a +cricket-ball, while others were superintending the cooking of their +dinners at open fires outside the huts. One of the men having +recognized my companion, a conversation took place, which was followed +by an invitation to join them at dinner. As we were getting rather +peckish after our walk, we readily accepted their offered hospitality. +The mates took turn and turn about at the cooking, and when dinner was +pronounced to be ready, we went into the hut. + +The place was partitioned off into two rooms, one of which was a +sleeping apartment, and the other the dining-room. It was papered with +a gay-coloured paper, and photographs of friends were stuck up +against the wall. We were asked to be seated. To accommodate the +strangers, an empty box and a billet of wood were introduced from the +outside. I could not say the table was laid, for it was guiltless of a +table-cloth; indeed all the appointments were rather rough. When we +were seated, one of the mates, who acted as waiter, brought in the +smoking dishes from the fire outside, and set them before us. The +dinner consisted of roast beef and cauliflower, and a capital dinner +it was, for our appetites were keen, and hunger is the best of sauces. +We were told that on Sundays the men usually had pudding; but "Bill," +who was the cook that week, was pronounced to be "no hand at a plum +duff." We contrived, however, to do very well without it. + +I afterwards found that the men were very steady fellows--three of +them English and one a German. They worked at an adjoining claim; and +often afterwards I saw them at our bank, selling their gold, or +depositing their savings. + +After dinner we had a ramble through the bush with our hosts, and +then, towards dusk, we wended our way back to the township. Such was +my first experience of diggers' hospitality in Australia, and it was +by no means the last. + +Another afternoon we made an excursion to the Chinamen's gardens, +which lie up the creek, under the rocky point of Gibraltar, about a +mile and a half distant from the township. We went through the +lead--that is, the course which the gold takes underground, and which +can be traced by the old workings. Where the gold lies from five to +seven feet beneath the surface, the whole ground is turned over to get +at it. But where the gold-bearing stratum lies from fifty to two +hundred feet deep, and shafts have to be sunk, the remains of the old +workings present a very different appearance. Then mounds of white +clay and gravel, from twenty to forty feet high, lie close +together--sometimes not more than fifteen feet apart. Climb up to the +top of one of these mounds, and you can see down the deserted shaft +which formerly led to the working ground below. Look round; see the +immense quantity of heaps, and the extent of ground they cover, almost +as far as the eye can reach up the lead, and imagine the busy scene +which the place must have presented in the earlier days of the rush, +when each of these shafts was fitted with its windlass, and each mound +was covered with toiling men. In one place a couple of engine-sheds +still remain, a gaunt erection supporting the water-tanks; the +poppet-heads towering above all, still fitted with the wheels that +helped to bring the gold to the surface. How deserted and desolate the +place looks! An abandoned rush must be as melancholy a sight to a +miner as a deserted city to a townsman. But all is not dead yet. Not +far off you can see jets of white steam coming up from behind the high +white mounds on the new lead, showing that miners are still actually +at work in the neighbourhood; nor are they working without hope. + +Passing through the abandoned claims, we shortly found ourselves on +the brow of the hill overlooking the Chinamen's gardens, of which we +had come in search, and, dipping into the valley, we were soon in +front of them. They are wonderfully neat and well kept. The oblong +beds are raised some ten inches above the level of the walks, and the +light and loamy earth is kept in first-rate condition. The Chinamen +are far less particular about their huts, which are both poor and +frail. Some of them are merely of canvas, propped up by gum-tree +branches, to protect them from the wind and weather. But John has more +substantial dwellings than these, for here, I observe, is a neat +little cluster of huts, one in the centre being a well-constructed +weatherboard, with a real four-paned glass window in it. + +Crossing the ditch surrounding the gardens upon a tottering plank, and +opening the little gate, we went in. The Chinamen were, as usual, +busily at work. Some were hoeing the light soil, and others, squatted +on their haunches, were weeding. They looked up and wished us "Good +evening" as we passed along. Near the creek, which bounded one end of +the ground, a John was hauling up water from the well; I took a turn +at the windlass, and must confess that I found the work very hard. + +The young vegetables are reared with the greatest care, and each plant +is sedulously watched and attended to. Here is a John, down on his +haunches, with a pot of white mixture and a home-manufactured brush, +painting over the tender leaves of some young cabbages, to save them +from blight. He has to go through some hundreds of them in this way. +Making our way into one of the larger huts, we stroll into the open +door, and ask a more important-looking man if he has any water-melon? +We get a splendid one for "four-pin," and have a delicious "_gouter_." +Our host--a little, dry, withered-up fellow, dressed in a soiled blue +cotton jacket, and wide trowsers which flap about his ankles--collects +the rind for his fowls. The hard-beaten ground is the only flooring of +the hut, and the roof is simply of bark. + +In one of the corners of the cabin was a most peculiar-looking affair, +very like a Punch and Judy show. On the proscenium, as it were, large +Chinese letters were painted. Inside was an image or idol (the joss), +carved in wood, with gorgeous gilded paper stuck all round him. A +small crowd of diminutive Chinamen knelt before him, doing homage. On +the ledge before the little stage was a glass of _porter_ for the idol +to drink, and some rice and fruit to satisfy his appetite. Numerous +Chinese candles, like our wax tapers, were put up all round inside, +and the show, when lit up, must have looked very curious. + +The Chinamen are always pleased at any notice taken of their houses, +so we penetrated a little further into the dwelling. In one little +room we found a young fellow reading a Chinese book with English words +opposite the characters. It seemed a sort of primer or word-book. My +friend having asked the Chinaman to give us some music on an +instrument hanging above him, which looked something like our banjo, +he proceeded to give us some celestial melodies. The tunes were not +bad, being in quick time, not unlike an Irish jig, but the chords were +most strange. He next played a tune on the Chinese fiddle, very thin +and squeaky. The fiddle consists of a long, straight piece of wood, +with a cross-piece fixed on to the end of it. Two strings stretch from +the tip of the cross-piece to the end of the long piece. The +instrument is rested on the knee, and the gut of the bow, which is +between the two strings, is drawn first across one and then the other. +An invisible vocalist, in the adjoining cabin, gave us a song to the +accompaniment of the violin. I should imagine that it was a +sentimental song, as it sounded very doleful; it must surely have been +the tune that the old cow died of! + +We were now in the bedroom, which was a most quaint affair. You must +not imagine that the Chinamen sleep on beds at all--at least the +Chinamen here do not. A wooden stretcher, covered with fine straw +matting, is sufficient for their purpose. The room was lit by a small +window; the walls were decorated with a picture or two from the +'Illustrated London News,' placed side by side with Chinese likenesses +of charming small-footed ladies, gaudily dressed in blues and yellows. + +In another adjoining hut we found a Chinaman whom we knew,--a man who +comes to the bank occasionally to sell us gold. He was cooking his +supper, squatting over the fire, with an old frying-pan containing +something that looked very like dried worms frizzling in fat. "Welly +good" he told us it was; and very good he seemed to be making it, as +he added slice after slice of cucumber to the mixture. John showed us +the little worm-like things before they were put in the pan, and he +told us they came "all the way Canton." He offered us, by way of +refreshment, his very last drop of liquor from a bottle that was +labelled, "Burnett's Fine Old Tom," which he kept, I suppose, for his +private consumption. John's mates shortly after came in to their meal, +when we retired--I with a cucumber in my pocket, which he gave me as a +present, and a very good one it was. I often afterwards went over to +see the Chinamen, they were so quaint and funny in their ways. + +I observe that in the cemetery the Chinamen have a separate piece of +burying-ground apportioned to them. There their bodies are interred; +but only to be dug up again, enclosed in boxes, and returned to China +for final burial; the prejudice said to prevail amongst them being +that if their bones do not rest in China their souls cannot enter +Paradise. Not only are they careful that their bodies, but even that +bits of their bodies, should be returned to their native land. There +was a Chinaman in Majorca whom I knew well, that had his finger taken +off by an accident. Shortly after, he left the township; but, three +months after, he one day made his appearance at our bank. I asked him +where he had been, and why he had come back to Majorca? "Oh!" said +he, holding up his hand, "me come look after my finger." "Where is +it?" I asked. + +"Oh! me put 'em in the ground in bush--me know." And I have no doubt +he recovered his member, and went away happy. + +My greatest pleasure, while at Majorca, was in riding or walking +through the bush--that is, the country as Nature made it and left +it--still uncleared and unoccupied, except by occasional flocks of +sheep, the property of the neighbouring squatters. North of Majorca +lies a fine tract of country which we call the high plains, for we +have to cross a creek and climb a high hill before we get on to them. +Then for an invigorating gallop over the green turf, the breeze +freshening as we pace along. These plains are really wonderful. They +look like a large natural amphitheatre, being level for about fifteen +miles in every direction and encircled all round by high hills. There +is very little timber on the plains. + +The bush covers the ranges of hills between Majorca and these plains +or lower grounds, amidst which the creeks run. Here, in some places, +the trees grow pretty thickly; in others, the country is open and +naturally clear. There is, however, always enough timber about to +confuse the traveller unless he knows the track. + +Shortly after my settling in Majorca, having heard that one of my +fellow-passengers by the 'Yorkshire' was staying with a squatter about +fourteen miles off, I determined to pay him a visit. I thought I knew +the track tolerably well; but on my way through the bush I got +confused, and came to the conclusion that I had lost my way. When +travellers get lost, they usually "_coo-ee_" at the top of their +voice, and the prolonged note, rising at the end, is heard at a great +distance in the silence of the bush. I _coo-ied_ as loud as I could, +and listened; but there was no response. I rode on again, and at +length I thought I heard a sort of hammering noise in the distance. I +proceeded towards it, and found the noise occasioned by a man chopping +wood. Glad to find I was not yet lost, I went up to him to ask my way. +To my surprise, he could not speak a word of English. I tried him in +German, I tried him in French. No! What was he, then? I found, by his +_patois_, a few words of which I contrived to make out, that he was a +Savoyard, who had only very recently arrived in the colony. By dint of +signs, as much as words, I eventually made out the direction in which +I was to go in order again to find the track that I had missed, and I +took leave of my Savoyard with thanks. + +I succeeded in recovering the track, and eventually reached the +squatter's house in which my friend resided. It was a large stone +building, erected in the modern style of villa architecture. Beside it +stood the original squatter's dwelling. What a contrast they +presented! The one a tall, handsome house; the other a little, +one-storied, shingle-roofed hut, with queer little doors and windows. +My friend, as he came out and welcomed me, asked me to guess what he +had been just doing. He had been helping to put in the new stove in +the kitchen, for the larger house is scarcely yet finished. He told +me what a good time he was having: horses to ride, doing whatever he +liked, and enjoying a perfect Liberty Hall. + +The host himself shortly made his appearance, and gave me a cordial +welcome. After dinner we walked round and took a view of the place. +Quite a little community, I found, lived about; for our host is a +large squatter, farmer, and miller; all the people being supplied with +rations from the station store. There is even a station church +provided by the owner, and a clergyman comes over from Maryborough +every Sunday afternoon to hold the service and preach to the people. +After a very pleasant stroll along the banks of the pretty creek which +runs near the house, I mounted my nag, and rode slowly home in the +cool of the evening. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +AUSTRALIAN WINTER--THE FLOODS. + +THE VICTORIAN CLIMATE--THE BUSH IN WINTER--THE EUCALYPTUS, OR +AUSTRALIAN GUM-TREE--BALL AT CLUNES--FIRE IN THE MAIN STREET--THE +BUGGY SAVED--DOWN-POUR OF RAIN--GOING HOME BY WATER--THE FLOODS +OUT--CLUNES SUBMERGED--CALAMITY AT BALLARAT--DAMAGE DONE BY THE +FLOOD--THE CHINAMEN'S GARDENS WASHED AWAY. + + +I was particularly charmed with the climate of Victoria. It is really +a pleasure to breathe the air: it is so pure, dry, and exhilarating. +Even when the temperature is at its highest, the evenings are +delightfully cool. There is none of that steamy, clammy, moist heat +during the day, which is sometimes so difficult to bear in the English +summer; and as for the spring of Australia, it is simply perfection. + +It was mid-winter when I arrived in Majorca--that is, about the end of +June, corresponding with our English December. Although a wood-fire +was very pleasant, especially in the evenings, it was usually warm at +midday. The sky was of a bright, clear blue, and sometimes the sun +shone with considerable power. No one would think of going out with a +great coat in winter, excepting for a long drive through the bush or +at night. In fact, the season can scarcely be termed winter; it is +rather like a prolonged autumn; extending from May to August. Snow +never falls,--at least, I never saw any during the two winters I spent +in the colony; and although there were occasional slight frosts at +night in the month of August, I never observed the ice thicker than a +wafer. I once saw a heavy shower of hail, as it might fall in England +in summer; but it melted off the ground directly. + +In proof of the mildness of the climate, it may further be mentioned +that the Australian vegetation continues during the winter months. The +trees remain clothed in their usual garb, though the leaves are of a +somewhat browner hue than in the succeeding seasons. + +The leaves of the universal gum-tree, or Eucalyptus of Australia, are +pointed, each leaf seeming to grow separately, and they are so +disposed as to give the least possible shade. Instead of presenting +one surface to the sky and the other to the earth, as is the case with +the trees of Europe, they are often arranged vertically, so that both +sides are equally exposed to the light. Thus the gum-tree has a +pointed and sort of angular appearance, the leaves being thrust out in +all directions and at every angle. The blue-gum and some others have +the peculiarity of throwing off their bark in white-grey longitudinal +strips or ribands, which, hanging down the branches, give them a +singularly ragged look, more particularly in winter. From this +description, it will be gathered that the gum-tree is not a very +picturesque tree; nevertheless, I have seen some in the far bush which +were finely proportioned, tall, and might even be called handsome. + +The fine winter weather continues for months, the days being dry and +fine, with clear blue sky overhead, until about the end of August, +when rain begins to fall pretty freely. During the first winter I +spent at Majorca, very little rain fell during two months, and the +country was getting parched, cracked, and brown. Then everybody prayed +for rain, for the sake of the flocks and herds, and the growing crops. +At last the rain came, and it came with a vengeance. + +It so happened that about the middle of October I was invited to +accompany a friend to a ball given at Clunes, a township about fifteen +miles distant; and we decided to accept the invitation. As there had +been no rain to speak of for months, the tracks through the bush were +dry and hard. We set off in the afternoon in a one-horse buggy, and +got down to Clunes safely before it was dark. + +Clunes is a rather important place, the centre of a considerable +gold-mining district. Like most new up-country towns, it consists of +one long street; and this one long street is situated in a deep +hollow, close to a creek. The creek was now all but dry, like the +other creeks or rivers in the neighbourhood. + +The ball was given, in a large square building belonging to the +Rechabites, situated in the upper part of the town. The dancing began +about half-past nine, and was going on very briskly, when there was a +sudden cry of "fire." All rushed to the door; and sure enough there +was a great fire raging down the street, about a quarter of a mile +off. A column of flames shot up behind the houses, illuminating the +whole town. The gentlemen of the place hastened away to look after +their property, and the dance seemed on the point of breaking up. I +had no property to save, and I remained. But the news came from time +to time that the fire was spreading; and here, where nearly every +house was of wood, the progress of a fire, unless checked, is +necessarily very rapid. Fears now began to be entertained for the +safety of the town. + +The fire was said to be raging in the main street, quite close to the +principal inn. Then suddenly I remembered that I, too, had something +to look after. There was the horse and buggy, for which my friend and +I were responsible, as well as our changes of clothes. I ran down the +street, elbowing my way through the crowd, and reached close to where +the firemen were hard at work plying their engines. Only two small +wooden houses intervened between the fire and the inn. I hastened into +the stable, but found my companion had been there before me. He had +got out the horse and buggy, and our property was safe. Eight houses +had been burnt down along one side of the street, before the fire was +got under. + +After this excitement, nothing remained but to go back and finish the +dance. Our local paper at Majorca--for you must know we have "an +organ"--gave us a hard hit, comparing us to Nero who fiddled while +Rome was burning, whereas _we_ danced while Clunes was burning. But we +did not resume the dance till the fire was extinguished. However, +everything must come to an end, and so did the dance at about five +o'clock in the morning. + +Shortly after the fire, the rain had begun to fall; and it was now +coming down steadily. We had nothing for it but to drive back the +fifteen miles to Majorca, as we had to be at business by 10 o'clock. +We put on our heaviest things, and set off just as the first streaks +of daylight appeared. As we drove down the street, we passed the +smouldering remains of the fire. Where, the night before, I had been +talking to a chemist across his counter, there was nothing but ashes; +everything had been burnt to the ground. Further on were the charred +timbers and smoking ruins of the house at which the fire had been +stayed. + +The rain came down heavier and heavier. It seemed to fall solid, in +masses, soaking through rugs, top-coats, and waterproofs, that we had +before deemed impervious. However, habit is everything, and when once +we got thoroughly soaked we became comparatively indifferent to the +rain, which never ceased falling. We were soon in the bush, where +there was scarcely a track to guide us. But we hastened on, knowing +that every moment increased the risk of our missing the way or being +hindered by the flood. We splashed along through the mud and water. As +we drove through a gully, we observed that what had before been a dry +track was now changed into a torrent. Now hold the mare well in! We +are in the water, and it rushes against her legs as if striving to +pull her down. But she takes willingly to the collar again, and with +one more good pull lands us safely on the other side, out of reach of +the ugly, yellow, foaming torrent. + +By the grey light of the morning, we saw the water pouring down the +sides of the high ground as we passed. It was clear that we must make +haste if we would reach Majorca before the waters rose. We knew that +at one part of the road we should have to drive near the bank of the +creek, which was sure to be flooded very soon. Our object accordingly +was, to push on so as to pass this most perilous part of our journey. + +On we drove, crossing dips in the track where foaming streams were now +rushing along, while they roared down the gullies on either side. It +was fortunate that my companion knew the road so well: as, in trying +to avoid the deeper places, we might have run some risk from the +abandoned shafts which lay in our way. At last we got safely across +the water, alongside the swollen creek, now raging in fury; and glad I +was when, rising the last hill, and looking down from the summit, I +saw the low-roofed houses of Majorca before me. + +I found that we had been more fortunate than a party that left Clunes +a little later, who had the greatest difficulty in reaching home by +reason of the flood. At some places the gentlemen had to get out of +the carriages into the water, up to their middle, and sound the +depths of the holes in advance, before allowing the horses to proceed. +And hours passed before they succeeded in reaching their destination. + +During the course of the day we learnt by telegraph--for telegraphs +are well established all over the colony--that the main street of +Clunes had become turned into a river. The water was seven feet deep +in the very hotel where we had dressed for the ball! All the back +bed-rooms, stables, and outbuildings had been washed away, and carried +down the creek; and thousands of pounds' worth of damage had been done +in the lower parts of the town. + +A few days later, when the rain had ceased, and the flood had +subsided, I went down to Deep Creek to see something of the damage +that had been done. On either side, a wide stretch of ground was +covered by a thick deposit of sludge, from one to four feet deep. This +was the debris or crushings which the rain had washed down from the +large mining claims above: and as it was barren stuff, mere crushed +quartz, it ruined for the time every bit of land it covered. The scene +which the track along the creek presented was most pitiable. Fences +had been carried away; crops beaten down; and huge logs lay about, +with here and there bits of furniture, houses, and farm-gear. + +I find the floods have extended over the greater part of the colony. +Incalculable damage has been done, and several lives have been lost. +The most painful incident of all occurred at Ballarat, where the +miners were at work on one of the claims, when a swollen dam burst +its banks and suddenly flooded the workings. Those who were working on +the top of the shaft fled; but down below, ten of the miners were at +work at a high level, in drives many feet above the bottom of the +claim. The water soon filling up the drives through which they had +passed from the main shaft, the men were unable to get out. They +remained there, cooped up in their narrow dark workings, without food, +or drink, or light for three days; until at last the water was got +under by the steam-pumps, and they were reached. Two had died of sheer +privation, and the rest were got out more dead than alive. + +The poor Chinamen's gardens down by the creek, under Gibraltar, had +also suffered severely by the flood. MacCullum's Creek, in ordinary +seasons, is only a tiny stream, consisting of water-holes +communicating with each other by a brook. But during a flood it +becomes converted into a raging torrent, and you can hear its roar a +mile off. Within about five hours the water in it had risen not less +than twenty feet! This will give you an idea of the tremendous force +and rapidity of the rainfall in this country. Of course the damage +done was great, in MacCullum's as in Deep Creek. A heavy timber bridge +had been carried quite away, not a trace of it remaining. Many miners' +huts in the low ground had been washed away; while others, situated in +more sheltered places, out of the rush of the torrent, had been quite +submerged, the occupants saving themselves by hasty flight in the +early morning; some of them having been only wakened up by the water +coming into their beds. + +One eccentric character, a Scotchman, who determined to stick to his +domicile, took refuge on his parlour table as the water was rising. +Then, as it got still higher, he placed a chair upon the table, and +stood up on it, the water continuing to rise, over his legs, then up +and up; yet still he stuck to his chair. His only regret, he +afterwards said, was that he could not get at his whisky bottle, which +he discerned upon a high shelf temptingly opposite him, but beyond his +reach. The water at last began to fall; he waded up to his neck for +the bottle; and soon the water was out of the house; for its fall is +almost as sudden as its rise. + +I was sorry for the poor Chinamen, whom I found, two days later, still +wandering about amidst the ruins of their gardens. Their loamy beds +had been quite washed away, and their fences and some of their huts +carried clean down the creek. One of them told me he had lost 30_l._ +in notes, which he had concealed in his cabin; but the flood had risen +so quickly that he had been unable to save it. I picked up a +considerable-sized stone that had been washed on to the Chinamen's +ground; it was a piece of lava thrown from one of the volcanic hills +which bound the plain,--how many thousands of years ago! These +volcanic stones are so light and porous that they swim like corks, and +they abound in many parts of this neighbourhood. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +SPRING, SUMMER, AND HARVEST. + +SPRING VEGETATION--THE BUSH IN SPRING--GARDEN FLOWERS--AN EVENING +WALK--AUSTRALIAN MOONLIGHT--THE HOT NORTH WIND--THE PLAGUE OF +FLIES--BUSH FIRES--SUMMER AT CHRISTMAS--AUSTRALIAN FRUITS--ASCENT OF +MOUNT GREENOCK--AUSTRALIAN WINE--HARVEST--A SQUATTER'S FARM--HARVEST +HOME CELEBRATION--AURORA AUSTRALIS--AUTUMN RAINS. + + +After a heavy rainfall, the ground becomes well soaked with water, and +vegetation proceeds with great rapidity. Although there may be an +occasional fall of rain at intervals, there is no recurrence of the +flood. The days are bright and clear, the air dry, and the weather +most enjoyable. It is difficult to determine when one season begins +and another ends here; but I should say that spring begins in +September. The evenings are then warm enough to enable us to dispense +with fires, while at midday it is sometimes positively hot. + +Generally speaking, spring time is the most delightful season in +Australia. The beautiful young vegetation of the year is then in full +progress; the orchards are covered with blossom; the fresh, bright +green of the grass makes a glorious carpet in the bush, when the trees +put off their faded foliage of the previous year, and assume their +bright spring livery. In some places the bush is carpeted with +flowers--violet flowers of the pea and vetch species. There is also a +beautiful plant, with flowers of vivid scarlet, that runs along the +ground; and in some places the sarsaparillas, with their violet +flowers, hang in festoons from the gum-tree branches. And when the +wattle-bushes (a variety of the acacia tribe) are covered over with +their yellow bloom, loading the air with their peculiarly sweet +perfume, and the wild flowers are out in their glory, a walk or a ride +through the bush is one of the most enjoyable of pleasures. + +I must also mention that all kinds of garden flowers, such as we have +at home, come to perfection in our gardens here,--such as anemones, +ranunculuses, ixias, and gladiolas. All the early spring +flowers--violets, lilacs, primroses, hyacinths, and tulips--bloom most +freely. Roses also flower splendidly in spring, and even through the +summer, when not placed in too exposed situations. At Maryborough our +doctor had a grand selection of the best roses--Lord Raglan, John +Hopper, Marshal Neil, La Reine Hortense, and such like--which, by +careful training and good watering, grew green, thick, and strongly, +and gave out a good bloom nearly all the summer through. + +By the beginning of November, full summer seems already upon us, it is +so hot at midday. Only towards the evening, when the sun goes down--as +it does almost suddenly, with very little twilight--it feels a little +chilly and even cold. By the middle of the month, however, it has +grown very warm indeed, and we begin to have a touch of the hot wind +from the north. I shall not soon forget my first experience of walking +in the face of that wind. It was like encountering a blast from the +mouth of a furnace; it made my cheeks quite tingle, and it was so dry +that I felt as if the skin would peel off. + +On the 16th of November I found the thermometer was 98 deg. in the shade. +Try and remember if you ever had a day in England when it was so hot, +and how intolerable it must have been! Here, however, the moisture is +absent, and we are able to bear the heat without much inconvenience, +though the fine, white dust sometimes blows in at the open door, +covering ledger, cash-book, and everything. On the 12th of December I +wrote home: "The weather is frightfully hot; the ledger almost +scorches my hands as I turn over the leaves." Then again, on the 23rd, +I wrote that "the heat has risen to 105 deg., and even 110 deg., in the shade; +yet, in consequence of the dryness and purity of the atmosphere, I +bear it easily, and even go out to walk." + +My favourite walk in the bush, in early summer, is towards the summit +of a range of hills on the south of the township. I set out a little +before sunset, when the heat of the day is well over, and the evening +begins to feel deliciously cool. All is quiet; there is nothing to be +heard but the occasional note of the piping-crow, and the chatter of a +passing flock of paroquets. As I ascend the hill, passing an abandoned +quartz-mine, even these sounds are absent, and perfect stillness +prevails. From the summit an immense prospect lies before me. Six +miles away to the south, across the plain, lies the town of Talbot; +and beyond it the forest seems to extend to the foot of the Pyrenees, +standing up blue in the distance some forty miles away. The clouds +hang over the mountain summits, and slowly the monarch of day descends +seemingly into a dark rift, leaving a track of golden light behind +him. The greeny-blue sky above shines and glows for a few minutes +longer, and then all is suffused in a soft and mournful grey. The +change is almost sudden. The day is over, and night has already come +on. Darkness follows daylight so suddenly that in nights when there is +no moon, and it is cloudy, one has to hasten homeward, so as not to +miss the track or run the risk of getting benighted in the bush. + +But, when the moon is up, the nights in Australia are as brilliant as +the days. The air is cool, the sky cloudless, and walking in the bush +is then most delightful. The trees are gaunt and weird-like, the +branches standing in bold relief against the bright moonlight. Yet all +is so changed, the distant landscape is so soft and lovely, that one +can scarcely believe that it is the same scene we have so often looked +upon in broad daylight. It is no exaggeration to say that the +Australian moonlight is so bright that one may easily read a book by +it of moderately-sized type. + +But Australian summer weather has also its _desagremens_. The worst of +these is the hot north wind, of which I have already described my +foretaste; though old colonists tell me that these have become much +less intolerable, and occur much seldomer, since the interior of the +country has been settled and comparatively cultivated. But the hot +winds are still bad to bear, as I can testify. They blow from the +parched lands of Central Australia, and bring with them clouds of dust +and insects. I should think they must resemble the African simoom. The +Melbourne people call these burning blasts the "brick-fielders." The +parching wind makes one hot and feverish, and to fly to the bar for +cooling drinks; but there even the glasses are hot to the touch. Your +skin becomes so dry and crisp that you feel as if it would crackle +off. The temperature rises to 120 deg.--a pretty tidy degree of heat! +There is nothing for it but to fly within doors, shut up every cranny +to keep out the hot dust, and remain in darkness. + +While the hot wind lasts, the air is of a heavy copper colour. +Everything looks yellow and withered. The sun appears through the dust +dull red, and no bigger than the moon, just as it does on a foggy +morning in London. Perhaps after an hour or two of this choking heat +the hot wind, with its cloud of dust, passes away southward, and we +have a deliciously cool evening, which we enjoy all the more +contrasted with the afternoon's discomfort. The longest time I have +known the hot wind to last was two days, but it is usually over in a +few hours. The colonials say that these winds are even of use, by +blowing the insect tribes out to sea; and that but for them the crops +would, in summer time, be completely eaten away. + +Another source of discomfort is the flies in summer. They abound +everywhere. They fill the rooms, and as you pass along the streets +they rise in clouds. The ceilings are sometimes black with them, and +no food can be left exposed for an instant without the certainty of +its being covered with them. There is one disgusting yellow-bodied +blow-fly, which drops his maggots with extraordinary fecundity. The +flies are also a nuisance in the bush, where veils are usually worn +when driving, to prevent their annoyance. And in the swamps there are +vigorous and tormenting musquitoes, as I have elsewhere described. + +After the parching heat of summer, and especially after the excessive +dryness occasioned by the hot winds, the whole face of the country +becomes, as it were, combustible, and bush-fires have at such times +burst forth apparently spontaneously, and spread with great rapidity. +The "Black Thursday" of the colony, some fifteen years since, when +fire covered many hundreds of miles, is still remembered with horror; +but, as settlement and cultivation have extended, these sudden +outbreaks of fire have become comparatively rare. + +When Christmas arrives, summer is at its height. It finds us perhaps +gasping with heat, sitting in our shirt-sleeves for coolness, and +longing for the cool evening. Yet there are few who do not contrive to +have their Christmas roast and plum-pudding, as at home. As +strawberries are then in their prime and in great abundance, many hold +strawberry picnics on Christmas Day; while sober church-goers enjoy +them at home. + +The abundance of fruits of all kinds affords one of the best proofs of +the geniality of the climate. First come strawberries, followed by +abundance of plums, peaches, and apricots, and afterwards by pears and +apples in plenty. Our manager's garden at Maryborough is a sight worth +seeing in summer time. Having a plentiful supply of water, he is able +to bring his fruit to great perfection. The plum and peach trees +seemed almost overburdened with their delicious loads. Through the +centre of the garden is a cool green alley, shaded with a vine-covered +trellis. The bunches of fast-ripening grapes are hanging on all sides, +and promise an abundant crop. + +Some of my pleasantest associations are connected with the January +afternoons spent in the orchards about Majorca. One day a party of us +drove out in search of a good fruit-garden. We went over the hill to +the south, and down the long valley on the Talbot road, raising clouds +of white dust as we went; then up another hill, from the summit of +which, down by the banks of the creek, and almost close to the foot of +Mount Greenock, we discovered the garden of which we had come in +search. We descended and entered the garden, still covered with +greenery, notwithstanding the tremendous heat, and there found the +fruit in perfection. + +Mount Greenock is one of the many volcanic hills which abound in this +neighbourhood. It is almost a perfect cone, some eight or nine +hundred feet high. "What a splendid prospect from the summit!" said +one of my companions. "Well, let us go up--there will probably be a +fine breeze on the top." "Too hot by far," was the answer. "Not at +all," said I, "the thing is to be done." "Well," said my friend, "you +may go if you like; but if you do, and are back in three-quarters of +an hour, I'll undertake to shout fruits and drinks for the remainder +of the afternoon." + +A noble offer! So I immediately stripped, took one look at the steep +hill above, the withered grass upon it almost glittering in the sun, +and started. I was soon across the nearly-dry creek, and, beginning +the ascent, I went on pretty steadily until I was within about two +hundred feet of the summit, when the great heat began to tell upon me. +I stopped, looked down the steep hill up which I had come, saw what a +little way further comparatively I had to go, and clambered upward +again. It was still a long and fatiguing pull, mostly over loose lava +stones; but at last I reached the top, panting and out of breath. +After such a tremendous pull as that, I do not think any one will +venture to say that my lungs can be unsound. + +I looked round at the magnificent view. It was indeed well worth +climbing the hill to see. I first turned my eyes northward towards +Majorca. There it was, with its white streak of pipeclay above it. +Beyond, in the distance, lay Carisbrook, with the bald hill standing +out in bold relief behind it. Nearer at hand are the mining works of +several companies, with their engine-sheds surrounded by huge piles +of refuse. Turning my eyes southward, I saw Talbot, about a mile off, +looking quite an important place, with its numerous red-brick +buildings and clusters of comfortable-looking houses. On the west, +towards Maryborough, lay a wide extent of bush, clad in its never +varying dark green verdure. The sky was clear, blue, and cloudless; +and though the sun was in all his strength, the light breeze that +played round the top of the mount made the air pleasant and +exhilarating to breathe. + +I shortly turned my steps down-hill, tacking and zigzagging in the +descent because of the steepness. I was soon at the foot of the mount, +across the brook, and seated in the garden, enjoying the fresh fruit, +with an occasional draught of colonial wine. + +Apropos of wine and grapes. It is anticipated by those who have had +the longest experience of the climate and soil of Victoria, that it is +not unlikely before long to become one of the principal wine-growing +countries in the world. The vine grows luxuriantly, and the fruit +reaches perfection in all parts of the colony, but more particularly +in the fine district situated along the River Murray. Most of the +farmers up country make their own wines for home use. It is a rough, +wholesome sort of claret. But when the Germans, who are well +accustomed to the culture of the vine, give the subject their +attention, a much finer quality is produced. There are already several +vineyard associations at work, who expect before long to export +largely to England, though at present the greater part of the wine +grown is consumed in the colony. A friend of mine at Melbourne has +planted an extensive vineyard at Sunbury, some thirty miles north of +the city, cultivated by Swiss vignerons; and, though I am no judge of +wine, the Burgundy which I tasted at his table was very grateful to my +inexperienced palate, and I was told that it was of very superior +quality.[9] + +After summer comes harvest, when the farmer gathers in the produce of +his year's industry, takes stock, and counts his gains. Harvest is +well over by the end of February. When I rode out to Perry's Farm, on +the second day of March, I found the fields already cleared, and the +grain housed. All the extra hands had gone. Only a week before, the +fields had been busy with reapers, binders, and machine-men, for whom +enormous meat pies had to be cooked and great joints of meat +roasted,--for labouring men in Australia are accustomed to consume +much larger quantities of flesh meat than at home. + +The scene is now perfectly quiet. The cows are coming in to be milked, +and a very fine lot they are--fifteen or more. The great stacks of +straw are shining in the red sunlight, for the sun is getting low, +though it is still warm. We go up to the farmhouse, having hung our +horses' reins over the rail, and saunter in through the back door. +Here no handing in of cards is required, for we know we are sure of +being made welcome; and in Australia hospitality is boundless. We +taste the grapes, which are just ripe, and wash them down with a glass +of home-brewed mead. But beware of that mead! Though it looks very +innocent, it is really very strong and heady. + +The farmer then took us into his barn, and proudly pointed with his +heavy whip to the golden grain piled up on the floor; then over his +stable, to look at his horses. There we found our own nags, which had +been taken in for a feed. Bringing them out, and mounting again, we +rode on a little further to another farm situated on a hill-side a +little higher up the valley. + +The farmhouse here is a little gem of a dwelling, situated in a nice +shady place, in the midst of a luxurious garden. Here, too, we +dismounted and entered the house, for we knew the host--a most genial +fellow, whose honest English face it was always a pleasure to see: it +was so full of kindness and good humour. We took a stroll round the +garden while the sun was setting, and then turned in for a cup of good +tea, which "missus" had got ready for us. + +One of our entertainer's greatest delights was in talking about "old +times"--though they were only a year or two old after all,--yet "new +chums" were always ready to sit listening to his tales open-mouthed. +He had been a digger, like most of the farmers hereabout, and he told +us how he was the first to find the gold at the great rush at +Maryborough; how he saw the gold glistening in the gravel one day +that he was out in the bush; how, for weeks, he lived quietly, but +digging and gathering gold early and late, until, having made his +little golden harvest, enough to buy and stock a farm, he went and +gave information to the commissioner as to the find, and then what a +rush of thousands of diggers there was to the ground! how streets +sprang up, stores were opened, hotels were built, and at last +Maryborough became the great place that it is--the thriving centre of +a large mining as well as agricultural district. + +In such old diggers' talk two hours had passed almost before we were +aware; and then we rose to go. The horses were brought out, and we +mounted and rode cautiously home, for it was now quite dark. It was a +fine mild night, and we had plenty of time; so we talked and laughed +our way through the bush--our voices the only sounds to be heard, +except it might be the noise of a bird rising on the wing, startled +from its perch by our merry laughter or the clatter of our horses' +hoofs on the hard ground as we trotted along. + +Another day, I drove out with one of the neighbouring farmers to his +place on the other side of the Deep Creek. At this late season the +bush is dried up and melancholy-looking; very different from what it +is in the lovely spring time. Now the bush seems dead-alive, fast +putting on its winter garb, while withered stalks of grass cover the +plains. We pass the neighbourhood of a large squatter's station, the +only one about here,--the run being very large, extending for a great +distance over the plains. It consists of not less than 60,000 acres +of purchased land and 60,000 acres of government land, on which the +squatter exercises the usual rights of pasturage. + +Crossing the creek by a wooden bridge, we were shortly at my friend's +farm. We heard the buzzing noise of the threshing-machine in the +adjoining fields. There was the engine busily at work, just as at +home. Steam penetrates everywhere,--across the seas, over the +mountains, and into the bush. We soon came up to the engine, where the +men were at work. It was pretty severe under a hot sun, amidst clouds +of dust and bits of chaff flying about from the thresher. Many of the +men wore spectacles to protect their eyes from the glare of the sun's +heat. + +The engine was just about to stop, to allow the men to have their +midday spell of rest; and they were soon at their meal of meat and +cold tea. The farmer came upon some of the men smoking quite +unconcernedly beside the great piles of straw; and wroth he was at +their carelessness, as well he might be, for had a fire burst out, it +would have destroyed straw, wheat, engine, and all. The wheat seemed +of excellent quality, and the farmer was quite pleased with his crop, +which is not always the case with farmers. + +We afterwards went over the farm buildings, which are neat and +substantial. A large stone barn has at one end of it a kitchen +attached, where the men's victuals are cooked during harvest time; +and, close at hand, is a comfortable stone cottage for the +accommodation of the manager and his family. + +After going over the farm, I had a refreshing bathe in the creek, at a +convenient place; though I have heard that it is not unusual for +bathers who get into a muddy water-hole to be startled by a sudden +sting, and when they emerge from the water, to find half a dozen +hungry leeches hanging on to their skin. For leeches are plentiful in +Australia, and even form an article of considerable export to England. + +We afterwards went out to Perry's harvest dance and supper, with which +the gathering in of the crops is usually celebrated, as at home. The +wheat had by this time all been sold and cleared out of the barn, and +it was now rigged up as a ball-room. We had a good long spell of +dancing, to the music of a violin and a bush piano. Perhaps you don't +know what a bush piano is? It consists of a number of strings arranged +on a board, tightened up and tuned, upon which the player beats with a +padded hammer, bringing out sounds by no means unmusical. At all +events, the bush piano served to eke out the music of our solitary +violin. + +After the dance there was the usual bounteous supper, with plenty to +eat and drink for all; and then our horses were brought out and we +rode homeward. It was the end of harvest, just the time of the year +when, though the days were still warm, the nights were beginning to be +cool and sharp, as they are about the beginning of October in England. +One night there was a most splendid Aurora, one of the finest, it is +said, that had been seen, even in Australia. A huge rose-coloured +curtain seemed to be let down across half the sky, striped with bright +golden colour, shaded off with a deeper yellow. Beneath the red +curtain, close to the horizon, was a small semicircle of bright +greenish yellow, just as if the sun were about to rise; and bright +gleams of light shot up from it far into the sky, making the +rose-coloured clouds glow again. The brilliancy extended upwards +almost to the zenith, the stars glimmering through the darker or less +bright part of the sky. Though I have mentioned "clouds," there was +not a cloud to be seen; the clouds I name were really masses of +brilliant light, obscuring the deep blue beyond. I feel the utter +powerlessness of words to describe the magnificence of the scene. + +The weather-wise people predicted a change of weather; and sure enough +a change shortly followed. We had had no rain for weeks; but early on +the second morning after the appearance of the Aurora, I was awakened +by the noise of heavy rain falling upon our slight iron roof. I found +a tremendous storm raging and the rain falling in masses. Our large +iron tank was completely filled in half an hour; and, overflowing, it +ran in upon our bank floor and nearly flooded us out. We had an +exciting time of it, baling out the water as fast as it ran in; for +somehow, the drain running underneath our boarded house had got +stopped. At last the rainfall ceased and the water was got rid of, +leaving everything in a state of damp--damp stools and chairs, damp +sheets, damp clothes, damp books, damp paper, damp everything. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 9: The kinds of wine principally produced in the colony are +Burgundy, Claret, white wine of the Sauterne kind, and a very +excellent sort of still Champagne. There are now regular autumn wine +sales at Melbourne and Geelong, at which large quantities are sold and +good prices realised. The total quantity produced in 1870 was 629,219 +gallons.] + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +BUSH ANIMALS--BIRDS--SNAKES. + +THE 'POSSUM--A NIGHT'S SPORT IN THE BUSH--MUSQUITOES--WATTLE +BIRDS--THE PIPING-CROW--"MINERS"--PAROQUET-HUNTING--THE SOUTHERN +CROSS--SNAKES--MARSUPIAL ANIMALS. + + +A favourite sport in Australia is 'possum-shooting. The Australian +opossum is a marsupial quadruped, living in trees and feeding on +insects, eggs, and fruits. Its body is about twenty-five inches in +length, besides which it has a long prehensile tail, with which it +clings to the branches of the trees in which it lives. Its skin is +covered with thick fur, of a uniform smoky-black colour, tinged with +chestnut, and it is very much sought after because of its warmth and +beauty. + +The proper time for 'possum-shooting is at night, when the moon is +nearly at her full, and one can see about almost as well as in the +daytime. Even Venus is so bright that, on a night when the moon was +absent, I have seen her give light enough to drive by. + +A well-trained dog is almost indispensable for scenting the 'possums +and tracking them to their tree, beneath which he stands and gives +tongue. When the dog stands and barks, you may be sure there is the +"'possum up a gum-tree." I never had the good fortune to be +accompanied by a well-trained dog; but only by young ones new to the +sport. + +We had, therefore, to find and sight our own game. This is done by +looking carefully along each branch, with the tree between you and the +bright moonlight; and if there be a 'possum there, you will see a +little black furry-like ball, motionless in the fork of a limb. On the +first night that I went out 'possum-shooting with a party of friends, +we trudged a good way into the bush, and searched the trees for a long +time in vain. + +At length the old colonial who accompanied us, coming up to a large +tree, said, "Ah! here is a likely place;" and we began carefully to +spy the branches; "There he is," said the colonial, pointing to a limb +where he said the 'possum was. At first I could make out nothing. But +at last I spied the little round ball. He fired, and the animal fell +to the ground dead. + +A little further on we searched again and found another. Now it was my +turn. I took steady aim at the black object between me and the moon, +and fired. Looking through the smoke, I saw Joey hanging on to the +branch by his tail; and in half a minute more he dropped to the +ground. I found that this was one of the ring-tailed species, the top +of the tail being bare for about two inches, and formed like a white +ring. 'Possums of this sort use their tails for climbing, like the +spider-monkey of Africa. I found I could carry my ring-tailer hanging +on to my finger, even after he was quite dead. + +The next 'possum fell wounded from the tree, and took to his heels, +with the little dogs after him; and they settled him after a short +fight. Sometimes the 'possum, after being hit, will cling a long time +to the tree by his tail, with his body hanging down. Then the best and +lightest climber goes up to shake him down, and he soon drops among +the dogs, which are all excitement and ready to fall upon him. +Occasionally he will give them a good run, and then the object is to +prevent him getting up another tree. + +Proceeding on our search, we found ourselves on some low swampy +ground, where there were said to be abundance of 'possums. But I had +no sooner entered the swamp than I was covered with musquitoes of the +most ravenous character. They rose from the ground in thousands, and +fastened on my "new chum" skin, from which the odour of the lime-juice +had not yet departed;[10] and in a few minutes I was literally in +torment, and in full retreat out of the swamp. Not even the prospect +of a full bag of 'possums would tempt me again in that direction. + +In all, we got seven 'possums, which is considered a very small bag. +There is a practised sportsman in the town who goes out with a +well-trained dog, accompanied by a horse and cart; and he is +disappointed if he does not bring home quite a cart-load of fur. + +When we had got done with our sport, and resolved on wending our way +homewards, I had not the faintest idea where we were, or of the +direction in which we were to proceed. Of course, near the town there +are plenty of tracks, but here there were none; and there is such a +complete sameness in the bush that I wondered that even my experienced +friend should be able to guide us back. But he had no difficulty in +finding the way, and we were soon tramping steadily along under the +bright moonlight, the straggling gum-trees looking more gaunt and +unshapely than usual,--the dry twigs crackling under our feet; and we +reached the township long after midnight. + +On another occasion I accompanied the Maryborough doctor into the bush +to shoot wattle birds for a pie; but we did not succeed in getting a +pieful. I have an idea that the gay-coloured dress of a young lady who +accompanied us frightened the birds away. There were plenty of birds +about, but very few of the sort we wanted--a bird as large as a +pigeon, plump and tender to eat. The doctor drove us in and out among +the trees, and had once nearly turned us all perforce out of the +buggy, having got his wheels locked in the stump of a tree. + +The speckled honey-suckers, yellow and black, chirped and gabbled up +among the trees. The leather-heads, with their bare neck and ruffle of +white feathers, almost like so many vultures in miniature, gave out +their loud and sudden croak; then lazily flapped their wings and flew +away to the next tree. Suddenly there is heard the single cry of the +bell-bird, just like the ringing of a glass bell; while far off in +the bush you could hear the note of the Australian magpie or +piping-crow, not unlike that of a silver flute, clear, soft, and +musical. The piping-crow is, indeed, a clever bird, imitating with +wonderful accuracy the cries of other birds; and when tamed it is +exceedingly amusing, readily learning to whistle tunes, which it does +extremely well. + +Another day, I went out shooting with the Presbyterian minister, an +enthusiastic taxidermist, now occupied in making a very nice +collection of Australian birds. We had a gay time of it in the bush +that day. There were plenty of grey and black mina-birds, or "miners," +as they are called here, chattering away in the trees in groups of +four or five. They are a species of grakle, and are lively and +intelligent birds, some of them possessing a power of imitating human +speech equal to any of the parrot tribe. They are very peculiar +looking, grey in the body, with a black dab on the head, and a large +bright yellow wattle just behind the eye. We pass the "miners" +unmolested, for the minister tells me they are "no good" if you want +eating, whilst as specimens they are too common. + +Then there are the tiny grey wrens, sitting about in scores,--so small +that an English wren looks monstrous beside them. Across the sunlight, +and away over a hollow, there flies a flock of green and yellow +paroquets, screaming as they fly. The brilliant colours of their wings +flash and glitter as they come from under the shadow of the trees. Now +we stalk a solitary piping-crow from tree to tree; but no sooner do +you get near enough to take a pot shot at him than he pipes his note, +and is off. The only way of getting at him is to proceed cautiously +from bush to bush; but even then, so shy a bird is he, that it is very +difficult to bag him. + +There is a flock of great white sulphur-crested cockatoos clustered up +in a high tree. Can we get a shot? They seem to anticipate our design, +for on the moment they rise and wheel overhead with elevated crests, +uttering their shrill hoarse cries. These are the fellows that +occasion our farmers so much trouble by eating the freshly-sown grain. + +Then look! on that branch are twenty or thirty lovely little swift +paroquets, with green and dark blue wings tipped with yellow. They are +climbing in and out of the scant leafage, under and over the limbs of +the tree, hanging on by their claws; and they only rise if they see us +near enough to take a shot at them, when they take to wing screaming, +and fly away in a flock. + +Once, when I had gone out parrot-potting, with another young fellow +almost as green as myself, we had very nearly got bushed. We had been +following up a flock of Blue Mountain parrots--handsome birds--of +which we wanted specimens for our collection. After some slight +success, we turned our way homewards. The sun was just setting. +Marking its position in the heavens, we took what we thought was the +right direction. There were no tracks to guide us--no +landmarks--nothing but bush. After walking for some time, and looking +again at the light of the sky where the sun had gone down, we found +that we had made a circuit upon our track, and were walking exactly in +the opposite direction to our township. We hastily retraced our steps, +for we knew that it would soon be dark, as the twilight is so short in +Australia. Fortunately for us, it was a very clear night, and as the +stars came brightly out we saw before us the Southern Cross high up on +our left, which guided us on our way. Had it been a cloudy night, most +probably we should have had to spend it in the bush; but, thanks to +the Southern Cross and good legs, we at length, though late, reached +our township in safety. + +There are sometimes snakes met with in the bush, though I saw but few +of them, and these are always ready to get out of your way. The +largest fellow I saw was drawn out from under the flooring of a +weather-boarded hut on the hill-side above Majorca. I was coming down +early one morning from the school-house, when I stopped at the hut to +speak with the occupant. It is a very tidy little place, divided into +two rooms--parlour and bedroom. The parlour was pasted all over with +cheap prints reminding one of home, mostly taken from 'Punch' and the +'Illustrated London News.' Photographs of old friends were also hung +over the mantel-shelf. The floor was neat and clean; the little pot +was simmering over the little fire, and all was getting ready for +breakfast. A very pleasant picture of a thriving emigrant's home. + +As I was standing outside, about to take my leave, casting my eyes on +the ground, I saw beneath the bench close to the door a long +brownish-grey thing lying quite still. I at once saw that it was a +snake, and snatched up a billet of wood to make a blow at him; but my +friend, who had more experience in such matters, held me back. "Just +wait a moment," said he, "and let me get hold of him." Quick as +thought he stooped down, seized firm hold of the snake by the tail, +and, whirling him rapidly round his head three or four times, he +dashed him against the boards of the hut and let him drop, crushing +the reptile's head with his boot-heel. The snake was four feet six +inches in length, and said to be of a very poisonous sort. + +Snakes are much more common in the less cleared parts of the colony, +and fatal snake-bites are not infrequent. The most successful method +of treatment is that invented by Dr. Halford, of Melbourne, which +consists in injecting a solution of ammonia into a vein dissected out +and opened for the purpose. This is said at once and almost completely +to destroy the effects of the poison. Since my return home I observe +that Dr. Halford has been publicly rewarded for his discovery. + +Kangaroo-hunting is one of the great sports of Victoria, but it was +not my fortune to see a hunt of this sort. There are now very few, if +any, kangaroo in this immediate neighbourhood.[11] Yet there is no +lack of marsupial animals of the same character: the opossum is one +of these. There is also a small kind of kangaroo, called the wallaby, +which, though I have not hunted, I have eaten. And wallaby stew is by +no means a bad dish: the flesh tastes very much like venison. Indeed, +the marsupial animals of Australia are of almost endless variety, +ranging from a very tiny animal, no bigger than our field-mouse, to +the great old-man kangaroo, which measures between seven and eight +feet from the nose to the tip of the tail. The peculiarity of all this +class of animals, from the smallest to the largest, is the marsupium, +or pouch, in which the females carry their immature young until they +are old enough to shift for themselves. The kangaroo is almost +confined to Australia, though several species are also to be met with +in the neighbouring islands. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 10: It is said in the colony that the musquitoes scent out +each "new chum," or fresh importation, by the lime-juice he has taken +on board ship; and that, being partial to fresh blood, they attack the +"new chums" in preference to the seasoned inhabitants.] + +[Footnote 11: There is a Hunt Club at Avoca, that hunts kangaroo. The +animals abound north of the Murray River; and some parts of the +unsettled country in Gipps Land still swarm with them.] + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +GOLD-BUYING AND GOLD-MINING. + +HOW THE GOLD IS FOUND--GOLD-WASHING--QUARTZ-CRUSHING--BUYING GOLD FROM +CHINAMEN--ALLUVIAL COMPANIES--BROKEN-DOWN MEN--UPS AND DOWNS IN +GOLD-MINING--VISIT TO A GOLD MINE--GOLD-SEEKING--DIGGERS' TALES OF +LUCKY FINDS. + + +I must now be excused if I talk a little "shop." Though my +descriptions hitherto have, for the most part, related to up-country +life, seasons, amusements, and such like, my principal concern, while +living in Majorca, was with bank business and gold-buying. The +ordinary business of a banking office is tolerably well known, but the +business of gold-buying is a comparatively new feature, peculiar to +the gold-producing districts, and is, therefore, worthy of a short +description. + +The gold is found and brought to us in various forms. The Majorca gold +is generally alluvial, consisting of coarse gold-dust and small +nuggets washed out from the gravel. There are also some quartz reef +mining companies, whose gold is bought in what we call a retorted +state. Let me explain. The quartz containing the gold is stamped and +broken up by heavy iron hammers falling upon it; and a stream of +water constantly running down into the box in which the stampers work, +the soluble dirt is washed away, while the particles of quartz and +gold are carried forward over boards, in which, at intervals, are +small ripples containing quicksilver. The quicksilver clings to the +gold and forms an amalgam with it. This is collected, taken out, and +squeezed in bags of chamois leather,--by which the greater part of the +quicksilver is pressed out and saved for a repetition of the process. +The residue is placed in a retort, and exposed to heat, by which the +remainder of the quicksilver is driven off by evaporation, leaving the +gold in a solid lump. There are, however, various other processes by +which the gold is separated from the quartz. + +Sometimes the gold is offered for sale in a very imperfectly separated +state, and then considerable judgment is required in deciding as to +its value. In alluvial gold there is always a certain proportion of +chips of iron, which have flown from the picks used in striking and +turning up the gravel. These pieces of iron are carefully extracted by +means of a magnet. The larger bits of gold, if there be any, are then +taken out and put to one side. The remainder is put into a shallow tin +dish, which is shaken with a peculiar turn of the wrist, and all the +sand and dirt thus turned to the point of the dish. This is blown off; +then up goes the gold again, and you blow and blow until all the sand +is blown off. If there remain any gold with quartz still adhering to +it, the particles are put into a big iron mortar and well beaten, and +the process above described is repeated. The gold is then ready for +weighing and buying, and there is usually no difficulty in settling +the price with English diggers, the price varying according to the +assay of the gold.[12] + +Our great difficulty is with the Chinamen, who are very close-fisted +fellows. They mostly work at sludge, which Englishmen have already +washed; and they are found hanging on to the tailings of old workings, +washing the refuse in order to extract the gold that had been missed. +Old tailings are often thus washed several times over, and never +without finding gold to a greater or less amount. When a party of +Chinamen think they can do better elsewhere, they may be seen moving +off, carrying their whole mining apparatus on their backs, consisting +of tubs, blankets, tin scoops, and a small washing-cradle. + +The Chinamen get their gold in a very rude way, though it seems to +answer their purpose. They put the stuff to be washed on to their +cradle, and by scooping water over it and keeping the cradle going +they gradually rinse it away, the fluid running over two or three +ledges of blankets, and leaving the fine gold remaining behind +adhering to the wool. After the process has been continued +sufficiently long, the gold-dust is collected from the blankets, and +is retorted by the Chinamen themselves, and then they bring it for +sale. The retorting has usually been badly done, and there remains a +good deal of quicksilver and nitric acid adhering to the gold. The +only way of dealing with it is to put the whole into a crucible, then +make it red hot, and keep the gold at the melting-point for five or +ten minutes. + +As we have got no furnace of our own on the premises, I have +frequently to march up the street to the blacksmith's shop, to put +John Chinaman's gold to the test. If John is allowed to go by himself, +he merely waits till the gold gets warm, takes it out again, and +brings it back, saying, "All light; welly good, welly good gole; no +gammon." But you should see John when I go up to the blacksmith's +myself, put the crucible into the hottest part of the fire, and begin +to blow the bellows! When the gold begins to glow with heat, and he +knows the weight is diminishing by the quicksilver and dirt that are +flying off, he cries, "Welly hot! too muchee fire; me losem too muchee +money!" But the thing must be done, and John must take the choice of +his dirty gold or the regular price for it when cleaned. I have known +it lose, by this process of purifying, as much as from five to six +pennyweights in the ounce. + +Sometimes he will bring only a few shillings' worth, and, when the +money is tendered for it, he will turn it over in his hand, like a +London cabman when his regular fare is given him. One man, who almost +invariably brought only a very small quantity, would begin his +conversation with, "No more money now--no more chow-chow (dinner)--no +more opium!" Sometimes matters come to a climax, and he tells us that +we "too much lie and cheatem;" on which we send him out at the door. + +The lower orders of Chinamen are almost invariably suspicious that +Englishmen cheat them, although some of them are very decent fellows, +and, indeed, kind and even polite. Several times I have asked them how +they were going to spend the money for which they had sold their +gold--say five shillings; and they would answer, ingenuously enough, +"Two shillings for opium, three shillings for chow-chow;" leaving no +margin for sundries. + +We buy from the Chinamen as little as three shillings' worth of gold, +and from the mining companies up to any amount. Some of the latter +bring in hundreds of pounds' worth of gold at a time. The quartz +companies bring theirs in large yellow lumps, of over 200 ounces, +fresh from the retort; and the alluvial companies generally deposit +theirs in leather bags containing their washings, until the end of the +week or fortnight, when they sell the accumulated product. + +There is, of course, a good deal of excitement and anxiety about +gold-digging. When men get into good gold-yielding ground, by steady +work they contrive to make fair earnings, and sometimes a good deal of +money; but they have usually to work pretty hard for it. Of course, +the most successful men are working miners, men who understand the +business; for gold-mining is a business, like any other. The amateur +men, who come in search of lucky finds and sudden fortunes, rarely do +any good. Nearly all the young fellows, sons of gentlemen, who could +do no good at home and came out here during the "rushes," are still in +no better position than they were at starting. A few of them may have +done well; but the greater number are bullock-drivers in the country, +cab-drivers in Melbourne, shepherds in the bush, or, still worse, +loafers hanging about the drinking-bars. + +I know many men, of good family and education, still working as common +miners in this neighbourhood. Although their life is a rough one, they +themselves think it is better than a struggling clerk's life at home; +and perhaps they are right. I know one young man, formerly a medical +student in England, digging for weekly wages, hired by a company of +miners at 2_l._ 10_s._ a week; but he is not saving money. He came out +with two cousins, one of whom broke away and pursued his profession; +he is now the head of a military hospital in India. The other cousin +remained in the colony, and is now a hanger-on about up-country +stations. There is also the son of a baronet here, who came out in the +time of the gold-fever. He has never advanced a step, but is +wood-cutting and rail-splitting in the bush, like a poor Savoyard. +Still the traces of his education can be seen through the "jumper" +shirt and moleskin trousers, in spite of rough ways and hard work. + +There are many ups and downs in gold-mining. Sometimes men will work +long and perseveringly, and earn little more than their food; but, +buoyed up by hope, they determine to go on again, and at last, +perhaps, they succeed. One day two men came into the bank with 120_l._ +worth of gold, the proceeds of four days' mining on a new claim. They +had been working for a long time without finding anything worth their +while, and at last they struck gold. The 120_l._ had to be divided +amongst six men, and out of it they had to pay towards the cost of +sinking their shaft and maintaining their three horses which worked +the "whip" for drawing up the water and dirt out of the mine. When +they brought in their gold in a little tin billy, the men did not seem +at all elated by their good fortune. They are so accustomed to a +sudden turn of luck--good or ill, as the case may be--that the good +fortune on this occasion seemed to be taken as a matter of course. + +One day, the manager and I went out to see a reef where some men had +struck gold. It lay across the bare-looking ranges at the north of the +township, in a pretty part of the bush, rather more wooded than usual. +The reef did not look a place for so much gold to come out of. There +were a couple of shafts, small windlasses above them, and two or three +heaps of dirty-looking brown quartz and refuse. I believe the reef is +very narrow--only from eight inches to a foot in width; the quartz +yielding from eight to twelve ounces of gold per ton. Thus, ten tons +crushed would give a value of about 400_l._ Though this may seem a +good yield, it is small compared with richer quartz. I have heard of +one mine which gave 200 ounces, or 800_l._, to the ton of quartz +crushed, but this was unusually rich. + +At some of the larger claims the works are carried on upon a large +scale with the aid of complete machinery. Let me describe one of the +mines, close to Majorca, down which I went one day to inspect the +operations. It is called the Lowe Kong Meng mine, and was formerly +worked by Chinamen, but had to be abandoned because of the great +quantity of water encountered, as well as the accidents which +constantly happened to the machinery. The claim was then taken up by +an English company of Tributors, who pay a percentage of the proceeds +of the mine to the proprietor, the large Chinese merchant, Mr. Lowe +Kong Meng, who resides in Melbourne. + +In some of the shallower workings the men go down the shaft with their +feet in a noose at the end of the rope; or, in some small and narrow +shafts, by holding on to the sides with their knees and feet. But in +large workings, such as this (which is about 150 feet deep), we +descend in a bucket, as in ordinary mines. What a speed we go down at! +We seem to shoot down into darkness. There--bump! we are at the +bottom. But I can see nothing; I only hear the drip, drip, and +splashing of water. + +In a few minutes my eyes get accustomed to the darkness: then I see +the dim light of a candle held by some one not far off. "Come up +here," says the guide; and we shortly find ourselves in a somewhat +open space, more light than the actual bottom of the shaft. We are +each supplied with a dip tallow candle, by means of which we see where +we are. The two drives branch off from this space: the main is 6 feet +3 inches in height, broad, and splendidly timbered with stout wood all +the way along. The Chinamen did this work. + +Water is running everywhere. We try to walk upon the rails on which +the trucks run, to keep our feet dry. But it is of no use, as there is +more water in our way to get through. Every now and then we slipped +off the rail and down into the water. As we got into the narrower and +lower drives I was continually coming to grief, my head bumping +against the dirty top, my hat coming off, or my candle getting +extinguished. + +We were taken first up to the place where the water had broken in so +heavily upon the Chinamen, and in which direction the mine could not +be worked. Strong supports of wood held up the gravel, through which +the water poured in, running down the drives of the well underneath +the shaft. What a labyrinth all these different passages seemed to me! +yet I suppose this claim is a small one compared with many others in +the gold-mining districts. + +Then we were shown a monkey--not the animal, but a small upright shaft +leading into a drive above, where the wash-dirt was being got out. +Should the course of the wash-dirt, in which the gold is, go downward +below the level of the well or the drives for draining the mine, the +shaft must then be sunk deeper down. The monkey was rather difficult +for me to scramble up. However, by holding on, and using the niches at +the sides, I managed to mount, as usual with the loss of my light. + +Along the drive we went, waiting in a corner until a truck of dirt +passed by, and its contents were shot down the monkey into the tram +waiting for it below. Now we creep up from the drive into a narrower +space, where we crawl along upon our hands and knees. We shortly came +upon four men getting out the wash-dirt, using their picks while +squatting or lying down, and in all sorts of uncomfortable positions. +The perspiration was steaming down the men's faces as they worked, for +the heat was very great. + +We did not stay long in that hot place, and I did _not_ take a pick +and happen to strike upon a nugget, as it is said the Duke of +Edinburgh did, though I saw a small dish of the dirt washed when we +reached the top, and it yielded a speck or two. We saw "the colour," +as the expression is. I felt quite relieved at last to find myself at +the top of the shaft, and in the coolness and freshness of the open +air. Here the dirt raised from the mine is put into the iron +puddling-machine, and worked round and round with water. The water +carries off the mud, the large stones are picked out, and the gold in +the bottom of the machine is cradled off. Such was my little +experience in mine-prospecting. + +I must also tell of my still smaller experience in gold-seeking. One +morning a little boy brought in a nugget for sale, which he had picked +up from a heap of dirt, while he was strolling down the lead outside +the town. After a heavy washing fall of rain, it is not unusual for +small bits of gold to be exposed to sight; and old diggers often take +a ramble amongst the mullock after rain, to make a search amongst the +heaps. A piece of gold was once brought to us for sale, weighing about +two ounces, that had been thus washed up by a heavy shower of rain. +Inspired by the success of the little boy, I went out in the afternoon +in a pair of thick boots, and with a pair of sharp eyes, to search for +treasure! It had been raining hard for several days, and it was a good +time for making an inspection of the old washed-out dirt-heaps. After +a long search I found only one speck of gold, of the value of about +4_d._ This I was showing with pride to a young lady friend, who, being +playfully inclined, gave my hand a shake, and my microscopical speck +was gone, the first and last fruits of my gold-seeking. + +Some of the tales told by the old diggers of their luck in the early +days of gold-finding are very interesting. One of these I can relate +almost in the very words of the man himself to whom the incident +occurred; and it was only an ordinary digger's tale. + +"My mates and I," he said, "were camped in a gully with some forty or +fifty other miners. It was a little quiet place, a long way from any +township. We had been working some shallow ground; but as the +wash-dirt when reached only yielded about three-quarters of a +pennyweight (about 3_s._) to the dish, we got sick of it, left our +claim, and went to take up another not far off. About a day or two +after we had settled upon our new ground an old acquaintance of mine +looked in upon us by chance. He was hard up--very hard up--and wanted +to know whether we could give him anything to do. 'Well, there is our +old place up there,' said I, 'it is not much good, but you can find +enough to keep body and soul together.' So he went up to our old +place, and kept himself in tucker. A few days after he had been at +work, he found that the further down he dug in one direction the more +gold the soil yielded. At one end of the ground a reef cropped up, +shelving inwards very much. He quickly saw that against the reef, +towards which the gold-yielding gravel lay, the ground sloping +downwards towards the bottom must be still richer. He got excited, +threw aside the gravel with his shovel, to come at the real treasure +he expected to find. Down he went, till he reached the slope of the +reef, where the gravel lay up against it. There, in the corner of the +ground, right in the angle of the juncture, as it were, lay the rich +glistening gold, all in pure particles, mixed with earth and pebbles. +He filled his tin dish with the precious mixture, bore it aloft, and +brought it down to our tent, where, aided by the mates, he washed off +the dirt, and obtained as the product of his various washings about +1000 ounces of pure gold! The diggers who were camped about in the +gully being a rough lot, we were afraid to let them know anything of +the prize that had been found. So, without saying anything, two of us, +late one night, set out with the lucky man and his fortune to the +nearest township, where he sold his gold and set out immediately for +England, where, I believe, he is now. He left us the remainder of his +dirt, which he did not think anything of, compared with what he had +got; and three of us obtained from it the value of 600_l._, or 200_l._ +a man." + +The same digger at another time related to us how and when he had +found his first nugget. He declared that it was all through a dream, +"I dreamt," he said, "that I sunk a shaft down by the side of a pretty +creek, just under a gum-tree, and close to the water; that I worked +down about ten feet there, put in a drive, and, whilst I was working, +chanced to look up, and there, sticking in the pipeclay, was a piece +of gold as big as my fist. Such was my dream. It took complete +possession of me. I could think of nothing else. Some weeks after, I +selected just such a site for a shaft as that I had dreamt of, under a +gum-tree, close by a creek; and there, new-chum like, I put in the +drive at the wrong depth. But, one day, when I had got quite sick at +fruitlessly working in the hole, on accidentally looking up, sure +enough there was my nugget sticking up in the pipeclay, just as I had +dreamt of it. I took out the gold, sat with it in my hand, and thought +the thing over, but couldn't make it out at all." + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 12: The ordinary price of good gold is 3_l._ 19_s._ 6_d._ +the ounce. In the early days of gold-digging, the gold was never +cleaned, but bought right off at a low price, 2_l._ 15_s._ or 2_l._ +17_s._ 6_d._ an ounce; the bankers thus often realizing immense +profits.] + + + + +CHAPTER XV + +ROUGH LIFE AT THE DIGGINGS--"STOP THIEF!" + +GOLD-RUSHING--DIGGERS' CAMP AT HAVELOCK--MURDER OF LOPEZ--PURSUIT AND +CAPTURE OF THE MURDERER--THE THIEVES HUNTED FROM THE CAMP--DEATH OF +THE MURDERER--THE POLICE--ATTEMPTED ROBBERY OF THE COLLINGWOOD +BANK--ANOTHER SUPPOSED ROBBERY--"STOP THIEF!"--SMART USE OF THE +TELEGRAPH. + + +In the times of the early rushes to the gold-fields there was, as +might be expected, a good deal of disorder and lawlessness. When the +rumour of a new gold-field went abroad, its richness was, as usual, +exaggerated in proportion to the distance it travelled; and men of all +classes rushed from far and near to the new diggings. Melbourne was +half emptied of its labouring population; sailors deserted their +ships; shepherds left their flocks, and stockmen their cattle; and, +worst of all, there also came pouring into Victoria the looser part of +the convict population of the adjoining colonies. These all flocked to +the last discovered field, which was invariably reputed the richest +that had yet been discovered. + +Money was rapidly made by some where gold was found in any abundance; +but when the soil proved comparatively poor, the crowd soon dispersed +in search of other diggings. A population so suddenly drawn together +by the fierce love of gain, and containing so large an admixture of +the desperado element, could scarcely be expected to be very orderly. +Yet it is astonishing how soon, after the first rush was over, the +camp would settle down into a state of comparative order and +peaceableness. For it was always the interest of the majority to put +down plundering and disorder. Their first concern was for the security +of their lives, and their next for the security of the gold they were +able to scrape together. + +When the lawless men about a camp were numerous, and robberies became +frequent, the diggers would suddenly extemporise a police, rout out +the thieves, and drive them perforce from the camp. I may illustrate +this early state of things by what occurred at Havelock, a place about +seven miles from Majorca. The gully there was "rushed" about nine +years since, when some twenty thousand diggers were drawn together, +with even more than the usual proportion of grog-shanty keepers, +loafers, thieves, and low men and women of every description. In fact, +the very scum of the roving population of the colony seems to have +accumulated in the camp; and crime upon crime was committed, until at +length an affair occurred, more dreadful and outrageous than anything +that had preceded it, which thoroughly roused the digger population, +and a rising took place, which ended in their hunting the whole of the +thieves and scoundrels into the bush. + +The affair has been related to me by three of the persons who were +themselves actors in it, and it is briefly as follows:--At the corner +of one of the main thoroughfares of the camp, composed of canvas tents +and wooden stores, there stood an extemporized restaurant, kept by a +Spaniard named Lopez. A few yards from his place was a store occupied +by a Mr. S----, now a storekeeper in Majorca, and a customer at our +bank. Opposite to S----'s store stood a tent, the occupants of which +were known to be among the most lawless ruffians in the camp. S---- +had seen the men more than once watching his store, and he had formed +the conviction that they meant at some convenient opportunity to rob +him, so he never slept without a loaded revolver under his pillow. One +night in particular he was very anxious. The men stood about at the +front of his store near closing time, suspiciously eyeing his +premises, as he thought. So he put a bold face on, came to the door +near where they were standing, discharged his pistol in the air--a +regular custom in the diggings at night--reloaded, entered his store, +and bolted himself in. He went to bed at about ten o'clock, and lay +awake listening, for he could not sleep. It was not very long before +he heard some person's steps close by his hut, and a muttering of +smothered voices. The steps passed on; and then; after the lapse of +about ten minutes, he heard a shot--a scream--and hurried footsteps +running close past his hut. He lay in bed, determined not to go out, +as he feared that this was only a _ruse_ on the part of the thieves to +induce him to open his door. But soon he heard shouts outside, as of +persons in pursuit of some one, and jumping out of bed, he ran out +half dressed and joined in the chase. + +Now, this is what had happened during the ten minutes that he had lain +in bed listening. The thieves had stolen past his store, as he had +heard them, and gone forward to the restaurant kept by the Spaniard. +They looked into the bar, and through the chinks of the wood they saw +Lopez counting over the money he had taken during the day. The bar was +closed, but the men knocked at the door for admission. Lopez asked +what they wanted; the reply was that they wished for admission to have +a drink. After some demur, Lopez at last opened the door, and the men +entered. Nobblers were ordered, and while Lopez was reaching for a +bottle, one of the thieves, named Brooke, made a grab at the money +lying in the open drawer. The landlord saw his hand, and instantly +snatching up a large Spanish knife which lay behind the counter, he +made a lunge at Brooke, and so fiercely did he strike that the knife +ripped up the man's abdomen. With a yell of rage, Brooke drew his +revolver, instantly shot Lopez through the head, and he fell dead +without a groan. + +Meanwhile the other thieves had fled; and now Brooke himself, holding +his wound together with his hand, ran out of the house, through the +street of tents, across the lead, and into the bush. But the hue and +cry had been raised; the diggers bundled out of their tents, and +before the murderer had reached the cover of the bush, already a dozen +men were on his track. It was full moon, and they could see him +clearly, holding on his way, avoiding the crab-holes, and running at a +good speed notwithstanding his fearful wound. Among the foremost of +the pursuers were a trooper and an active little fellow who is now +living in Majorca. They got nearer and nearer to Brooke, who turned +from time to time to watch their advance. The trooper was gaining upon +him fast; but when within about fifteen yards of him Brooke turned, +took aim with his revolver, and deliberately fired. The aim was too +true: the trooper fell dead, shot right through the heart. Brooke +turned to fly immediately he had fired his shot, but the root of a +tree behind him tripped him up, and the little man who followed close +behind the trooper was upon him in an instant, with his knee upon his +body holding him down. Brooke managed to turn himself half round, +presented his revolver at his captor, and fired. The cap snapped on +the nipple! My friend says he will never forget the look the wretch +gave him when his pistol missed fire. A few minutes--long, long +minutes--passed, and at length help arrived and the murderer was +secured. The number shortly increased to a crowd of angry diggers. At +first they wished to hang Brooke at once upon the nearest tree; but +moderate counsels prevailed, and at last they agreed to take him into +Havelock and send for a doctor. + +When the crowd got back to Havelock their fury broke out. They +determined to level the thieves' tents and the grog-shanties that had +harboured them. What a wild scene it must have been! Two or three +thousand men pulling down huts and tents, smashing crockery and +furniture, ripping up beds, and levelling the roosts of infamy to the +ground. When Dr. Laidman, the doctor sent for from Maryborough, +arrived to attend the dying man, he saw a cloud of "white things" in +the air, and could not make out what they were. They turned out to be +the feathers of the numerous feather-beds, which the diggers had torn +to pieces, that were flying about. The diggers' blood was fairly up, +and they were determined to make "a clean job of it" before they had +done. And not only did they thoroughly root out and destroy all the +thieves' dens and low grog-shops and places of ill-fame, but they +literally hunted the owners and occupants of them right out into the +bush. + +I must now tell you of the murderer's end. He was taken to the rude +theatre of the place, and laid down upon the stage, with his two +victims beside him--the dead Lopez on one side and the dead trooper on +the other. When the doctor arrived, he examined Brooke, and told him +he would try to keep him alive, so that justice might be done. And the +doctor did his best. But the Spaniard's wound had been terrible and +deadly. Brooke died in about half an hour from the time of the +doctor's arrival The murderer remained impenitent to the last, and +opened his mouth only once to utter an oath. Such was the horrible +ending of this digger's tragedy. + +Cases such as this are, however, of rare occurrence. So soon as a +digging becomes established, a regular police is employed to ensure +order, and local self-government soon follows. We had often occasion +to ride over to Maryborough, taking with us gold; but though we were +well known in the place, and our errand might be surmised, we were +never molested, nor, indeed, entertained the slightest apprehension of +danger. It is true that in the bank we usually had a loaded revolver +lying in the drawer ready at hand, in case it should be needed; but we +had never occasion to use it. + +Some years ago, however, an actual attempt was openly made to rob a +bank in Collingwood, a suburb of Melbourne, which was very gallantly +resisted. The bank stood in a well-frequented part of the town, where +people were constantly passing to and fro. One day two men entered it +during office hours. One of them deliberately bolted the door, and the +other marched up to the counter and presented a pistol at the head of +the accountant who stood behind it. Nothing daunted, the young man at +once vaulted over the counter, calling loudly to the manager for help, +and collared the ruffian, whose pistol went off as he went down. The +manager rushed out from his room, and tackled the other fellow. Both +the robbers were strong, powerful men, but they fought without the +courage of honesty. The struggle was long and desperate, until at last +assistance came, and both were secured. A presentation of plate was +made to the two officials who had so courageously done their duty, +and they are still in the service of the same bank. + +In direct contrast to this case, I may mention a rather mysterious +circumstance which occurred at an up-country bank, situated in a +quartz-mining district. I must first explain that the bank building is +situated in a street, with houses on both sides, and that any noise in +it would readily be heard by the neighbours. One young fellow only was +in charge of the place. The manager of a neighbouring branch called +weekly for the surplus cash and the gold bought during the week. The +youth in charge suddenly reported one day that he had been "stuck up," +as the colonial phrase is for being robbed. He said that one night, as +he was going into the bank, where he slept--in fact just as he was +putting the key into the lock--a man came up to him, and, clapping a +pistol to his head, demanded the key of the safe. He gave it him, +showed him where the gold and notes were kept, and, in fact, enabled +the robber to make up a decent "swag." The man, whoever he was, got +away with all the money. The bank thought it their duty to proceed +against the clerk himself for appropriating the money. But the proof +was insufficient, and the verdict brought in was "Not guilty." + +We were one day somewhat alarmed at Majorca by a letter received from +our manager at Maryborough, informing us that a great many bad +characters were known to be abroad and at work--and cautioning us to +be particularly upon our guard. We were directed to discharge our +firearms frequently and keep them in good order, so that in case of +need they should not miss fire. We were also to give due notice when +we required notes from Maryborough, so that the messenger appointed to +bring them over should be accompanied by a complete escort, _i.e._, a +mounted trooper. All this was very alarming, and we prepared for +events accordingly. + +A few nights after, as we were sitting under the manse verandah, we +heard a loud cry of "Stop thief!" The robbers, then, were already in +the township! We jumped up at once, looked round the corner of the +house, and saw two men running off as fast as they could, followed at +some distance by another man shouting frantically, "Stop thief!" We +immediately started in pursuit of the supposed thieves. We soon came +up with the man who had been robbed, and whom we found swearing in a +most dreadful way. This we were very much astonished at, as we +recognised in him one of the most pious Wesleyans in the township. But +we soon shot ahead of him, and gradually came up with the thieves, +whom we at first supposed to be Chinamen. As we were close upon them, +they suddenly stopped, turned round, and burst out laughing! Surely +there must be some mistake! We recognised in the "thieves" the son of +the old gentleman whom we had just passed, with one of his companions, +who had pretended to steal his fowls, as Chinamen are apt to do: +whereas they had really carried off nothing at all. In short, we, as +well as our respected Wesleyan friend, felt ourselves completely +"sold." + +The only attempt at dishonesty practised upon our branch which I can +recollect while at Majorca was one of fraud and not of force. We had +just been placed in telegraphic communication with the other towns in +the colony. The opening of the telegraph was celebrated, as usual, by +the Town Council "shouting" champagne. Some time before, a +working-man, who had some money deposited with us, called in a fluster +to say his receipts had been stolen. This was noted. Now came a +telegram from Ballarat, saying that a receipt of our branch had been +presented for payment, and asking if it was correct. We answered +sharp, ordering the man to be detained. He was accordingly taken into +custody, handed over to the police, and remanded to Newstead, where +the receipt had been stolen. Newstead is a long way from Majorca, but +our manager drove over with a pair of horses to give his evidence. It +turned out that our customer's coat, containing the receipt, had been +stolen while he was at his work. The thief was identified as having +been seen hanging about the place; and the result was that he was +committed, tried, and duly convicted. So you see that we are pretty +smart out here, and not a long way behind the old country after all. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +PLACES ABOUT. + +VISIT TO BALLARAT--THE JOURNEY BY COACH--BALLARAT FOUNDED ON +GOLD--DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN--BALLARAT "CORNER"--THE SPECULATIVE +COBBLER--FIRE BRIGADES--RETURN JOURNEY--CRAB-HOLES--THE TALBOT +BALL--THE TALBOT FETE--THE AVOCA RACES--SUNRISE IN THE BUSH. + + +One of the most interesting visits to places that I made while staying +at Majorca was to Ballarat, the mining capital of the colony, +sometimes called here the Victorian Manchester. The time of my visit +was not the most propitious, for it was shortly after a heavy fall of +rain, which had left the roads in a very bad state. But I will +describe my journey. + +Three of us hired a one-horse buggy to take us on to Clunes, which lay +in our way. The load was rather too much for the horse, but we took +turn and turn about at walking, and made it as light for the animal as +possible. At Clunes I parted with my companions, who determined to +take the buggy on to Ballarat. I thought it preferable to wait for the +afternoon coach; and after being hospitably entertained at dinner by +the manager of our Branch Bank at Clunes, I took my place in the coach +for Ballarat. + +We had not gone more than about a mile when the metalled road ended, +and the Slough of Despond began,--the road so called, though it was +little more than a deep mud-track, winding up a steepish ascent. All +the passengers got out and walked up the hill. In the distance we saw +a buggy in difficulties. I had already apprehended the fate of my +mates who had gone on before me, and avoided sharing it by taking my +place in the coach. But we were in little better straits ourselves. +When we got up to the buggy, we found it fairly stuck in the mud, in +one of the worst parts of the road, with a trace broken. I got under +the rails of the paddock in which the coach passengers were +walking--for it was impossible to walk in the road--and crossed over +to where my former mates were stuck. They were out in the deep mud, +almost knee-deep, trying to mend the broken trace. Altogether they +looked in a very sorry plight. + +At the top of the hill we again mounted the coach, and got on very +well for about three miles, until we came to another very bad piece of +road. Here we diverged from it altogether, and proceeded into an +adjoining field, so as to drive alongside the road, and join it a +little further on. The ground looked to me very soft, and so it was. +For we had not gone far when the coach gave a plunge, and the wheels +sank axle-deep in a crab-hole. All hands had now to set to work to +help the coach out of the mud; while the driver urged his horses with +cries and cracks of his long whip. But it was of no use. The two +wheelers were fairly exhausted, and their struggling only sent them +deeper into the mud. The horses were then unharnessed, and the three +strongest were yoked in a line, so as to give the foremost of them a +better foot-hold. But it was still of no use. It was not until the mud +round the wheels had been all dug out, and the passengers lifted the +hind wheels and the coach bodily up, that the horses were at last able +to extricate the vehicle. By this time we were all in a sad state of +dirt and wet, for the rain had begun to fall quite steadily. + +Shortly after, we reached the half-way house and changed horses. We +now rattled along at a pretty good pace. But every now and then the +driver would shout, "Look out inside!" and there would be a sudden +roll, followed by a jerk and pitch combined, and you would be thrown +over upon your opposite neighbour, or he upon you. At last, after a +rather uncomfortable journey, we reached the outskirts of a large +town, and in a few minutes more we found ourselves safely jolted into +Ballarat. + +I am not at all up in the statistics of the colony, and cannot tell +the population or the number of inhabited houses in Ballarat.[13] But +it is an immense place, second in importance in the colony only to +Melbourne. Big though it be, like most of these up-country towns, +Ballarat originated in a rush. It was only in September, 1851, that a +blacksmith at Buningong, named Hiscocks, who had long been searching +for gold, traced a mountain-torrent back into the hills towards the +north, and came upon the rich lode which soon became known as the +"Ballarat Diggings." When the rumour of the discovery got abroad, +there was a great rush of people to the place, accompanied by the +usual disorders; but they gradually settled down, and Ballarat was +founded. The whole soil of the place was found to contain more or less +gold. It was gathered in the ranges, on the flats, in the +water-courses, and especially in the small veins of blue clay, lying +almost above the so-called "pipeclay." The gold was to all appearance +quite pure, and was found in rolled or water-course irregular lumps of +various sizes, from a quarter or half an ounce in weight, sometimes +incorporated with round pebbles of quartz, which appeared to have +formed the original matrix. + +The digging was at first for the most part alluvial, but when skilled +miners arrived from England, operations were begun on a much larger +scale, until now it is conducted upon a regular system, by means of +costly machinery and highly-organised labour. To give an idea of the +extensive character of the operations, I may mention that one company, +the Band of Hope, has erected machinery of the value of 70,000_l._ The +main shaft, from which the various workings branch out, is 420 feet +deep; and 350 men are employed in and about the mine. It may also be +mentioned that the deeper the workings have gone, the richer has been +the yield of gold. This one company has, in a comparatively short +time, raised gold worth over half a million sterling; the quantity +produced by the Ballarat mines, since the discovery of gold in +September, 1851, to the end of 1866, having been worth about one +hundred and thirty millions sterling. + +The morning after my arrival in Ballarat I proceeded to survey the +town, I was certainly surprised at the fine streets, the large +buildings, and the number of people walking along the broad pathways. +Perhaps my surprise was magnified by the circumstance that nearly +fifteen months had passed since I had been in a large town; and, after +Majorca, Ballarat seemed to me like a capital. After wandering about +the streets for half an hour, I looked into the Court-house, where an +uninteresting case of drunkenness was being heard. I next went into +the adjoining large building, which I found to be the Public Library. +The commodious reading-room was amply supplied with books, magazines, +and newspapers; and here I amused myself for an hour in reading a new +book. Over the mantel-piece of the large room hangs an oil painting of +Prince Alfred, representing him and his "mates" after the visit they +had made to one of the Ballarat mines. This provision of excellent +reading-rooms--free and open to all--seems to me an admirable feature +of the Victorian towns. They are the best sort of supplement to the +common day-schools; and furnish a salutary refuge for all sober-minded +men, from the temptations of the grog-shops. But besides the Public +Library, there is also the Mechanics' Institute, in Sturt Street; a +fine building, provided also with a large library, and all the latest +English newspapers, free to strangers. + +The features of the town that most struck me in the course of the day +were these. First, Sturt Street: a fine, broad street, at least three +chains wide. On each side are large handsome shops, and along the +middle of the road runs a broad strip of garden, with large trees and +well-kept beds of flowers. Sturt Street is on an incline; and at the +top of it runs Ledyard Street, at right angles, also a fine broad +street. It contains the principal banks, of which I counted nine, all +handsome stone buildings, the London Chartered, built on a foundation +of blue-stone, being perhaps the finest of them in an architectural +point of view. Close to it is the famous "Corner." What the Bourse is +in Paris, Wall Street in New York, and the Exchange in London--that is +the "Corner" at Ballarat. Under the verandah of the Unicorn Hotel, and +close to the Exchange Buildings, there is a continual swarm of +speculators, managers of companies, and mining men, standing about in +groups, very like so many circles of betting-men on a race-course. +Here all the mining swindles originate. Specimens of gold-bearing +quartz are shown, shares are bought and sold, new schemes are +ventilated, and old ones revived. Many fortunes have been lost and won +on that bit of pavement. + +One man is reckoned as good as another in Ballarat. Even the cad of a +baker's boy has the chance of making "a pile," while the swell broker, +who dabbles in mines and reefs, may be beggared in a few days. As one +of the many instances of men growing suddenly rich by speculation +here, I may mention the following. A short time since, a cobbler at +Ballarat had a present made to him of twenty scrip in a company that +was looking so bad that the shares had become unsaleable. The cobbler +knew nothing of the mine, but he held the scrip. Not only so, but he +bought more at a shilling or two apiece, and he went on accumulating +them, until at the end of the year he had scraped together some two or +three hundred. At length he heard that gold had been struck. He went +to a bank, deposited his scrip certificates, and raised upon them all +the money he could borrow. He bought more shares. They trebled in +value. He held on. They trebled again. At last, when the gold was +being got almost by the bucket, and a great mania for the shares had +set in, the cobbler sold out at 250_l._ a share, and found himself a +rich man. The mine was, I think, the Sir William Don, one of the most +successful in Ballarat, now yielding a dividend of about 2_l._ per +share per month, or a return of about 500 per cent. on the paid-up +capital. + +But to return to my description of Ballarat. The town lies in a valley +between two slopes, spreading up on both sides and over the summits. +Each summit is surmounted by a lofty tower, built by the Eastern and +Western Fire Brigades. These towers command a view of the whole place, +and are continually occupied by watchmen, who immediately give the +alarm on the outbreak of fire. The people here say that the Ballarat +Fire Brigade is the smartest in the southern hemisphere; though the +engines are all manned by volunteers. And a fire must be a serious +matter in Ballarat, where so many of the buildings--stores as well as +dwellings--are built entirely of wood. Many of the streets are even +paved with wood. + +In the afternoon I ascended the western hill, from which I obtained a +fine bird's-eye view of the town. The large, broad streets, at right +angles to each other, looked well laid out, neat, and clean looking. +What seemed strangest of all was the lazy puffing of the engines over +the claims, throwing out their white jets of steam. But for the width +of the streets, and the cleanness of the place, one might almost have +taken Ballarat for a manufacturing town in Yorkshire, though they have +no flower gardens along the middle of their streets! + +In the evening I went to the opera--for Ballarat has an opera! The +piece was 'Faust,' and was performed by Lyster and Smith's company +from Melbourne. The performers did their best, but I cannot say they +are very strong in opera yet at the Antipodes. + +After thoroughly doing Ballarat, I set out on my return to Majorca. +There was the same jolting as before, but this time the coach did not +stick in the mud. On reaching Clunes, I resolved to walk straight to +Majorca across the plain, instead of going the roundabout way by the +road. But the straightest route is not always the shortest, as my +experience on this occasion proved. I had scarcely got fairly into the +plain before I found myself in the midst of a succession of +crab-holes. These are irregular depressions, about a yard or so apart, +formed by the washing up of the soil by eddies during floods, and now +the holes were all full of water. It was a difficult and tedious +process to work one's way through amongst them, for they seemed to +dovetail into one another, and often I had to make a considerable +detour to get round the worst of them. This crab-holey ground +continued for about four miles, after which I struck into the bush, +making for the ranges, and keeping Mount Greenock and Mount Glasgow +before me as landmarks. Not being a good bushman, I suspect I went +several miles out of my way. However, by dint of steady walking, I +contrived to do the sixteen miles in about four hours; but if I have +ever occasion to walk from Clunes again, I will take care to take the +roundabout road, and not to make the journey _en zigzag_ round +crab-holes and through the bush. + +Among the other places about here that I have visited were Talbot, +about seven miles distant, and Avoca, about twenty. One of the +occasions of my going to Talbot was to attend a ball given there, and +another to attend a great fete for the benefit of the Amherst +Hospital. Talbot gives its name to the county, though by no means the +largest town in it. The town is very neat and tidy, and contains some +good stone and brick buildings. It consists of one principal street, +with several little offshoots. + +The ball was very like a ball at home, though a little more mixed. The +young ladies were some of them very pretty, and nicely dressed--some +in dresses "direct from London"--while a few of the elder ladies were +gorgeous but incongruous. One old lady, in a juvenile dress, wore an +enormous gold brooch, large enough to contain the portraits of several +families. I was astonished to learn the great distances that some of +the ladies and gentlemen had come to be present at the ball. Some had +driven through the bush twenty and even thirty miles; but distance is +thought nothing of here, especially when there is a chance of "meeting +company." The ball was given in the Odd Fellows' Hall, a large square +room. One end of it was partitioned off as a supper-room, and on the +partition was sewn up in large letters this couplet from 'Childe +Harold:'-- + +"No sleep till morn, when Youth and Pleasure meet, +To chase the glowing hours with flying feet." + +And, to speak the truth, the young ladies, as well as the young +gentlemen present, did ample justice to the text. The dancing +continued until daybreak, and we drove back to Majorca as the sun was +rising; but remember it was summer time, in November, when the sun +rises very early. + +One little event arose out of this ball which may serve to illustrate +the comparative freeness of up-country manners. A nice young lady, +with whom I danced, asked me if I would not like to be very great +friends with her. "Oh, yes! certainly." And great friends we became at +once. Perhaps she took pity on the stranger boy so far from home. She +asked if I was fond of riding. "Very fond." "Then I will come over to +Majorca, and call upon you, and we shall have a ride in the bush +together." And I was to be sure and have some sweets ready for her, as +she was very fond of them. I took this to be merely a little ball-room +chaff; but judge my surprise when, next afternoon, the young lady rode +up to the bank door and called on me to fulfil my promise,--which I +did, lollipops and all. + +A great event in Talbot is the Annual Fete, held on the Prince of +Wales's birthday, which is observed as a public holiday in Victoria. +The fete this year was held in aid of the funds of the Amherst +Hospital, a valuable local institution. At this affair the whole +population of the neighbourhood turned out. It began at midday with a +grand procession through the town. Let me endeavour to give you an +idea of the pageant. First came the well-mounted Clunes Lancers, in +their light blue and white uniforms, 150 strong, blue and white +pennons fluttering from their long lances. Then came lines of members +of Friendly Societies, in gay scarfs, accompanied by banners. Then a +good band of music. The Talbot 42nd Sectional Lancers next turn the +corner of the street, gorgeous in scarlet and white. Then comes +something comic--a Welsh lady and gentleman riding a pony barebacked. +These are followed by an Irish couple, also mounted. Then comes a +Highlandman, in a vehicle such as the Highlands never saw, discoursing +music from his bagpipes. A large open boat follows, mounted on a car; +it is filled with sailor-boys in blue and white. This boat is a model +of the 'Cerberus,' the turret-ship that Mr. Reed is building in +England for the defence of Port Phillip. A genuine old salt, with long +white hair, plays the part of admiral. In cocked hat, blue admiral's +coat, and white ducks, he waves his sword frantically, and gives the +word of command to repel boarders; all the while two little cannons in +the model are being constantly fired, reloaded, and fired again. This +noisy exhibition having passed, a trophy representing the Australian +chase appears. A huntsman, dressed in green, blowing his horn, stands +amidst some bushes, holding a handsome leash of hounds; dead kangaroos +and other Australian animals lie around him. Then follow more lancers. +After this comes a huge car, two stories high, with all sorts of odd +characters in it: a clown, with his "Here we are again!" playing +pranks on two sedate-looking Chinamen; a little fairy boy or girl, +flirting with a magician; dragons snapping; strange birds screeching; +three bears, one playing a violin, but the tune it plays is drowned by +the hubbub of noise and bands. A lady, of the time of Elizabeth, +gorgeous in ruffles, follows on horseback. Then knights in armour, one +of them with a stuffed 'possum snarling on the top of his helmet. +Another band. Then the solemn brethren of the Order of Druids, in +white gowns, bald heads, and grey beards. A company of sweeps comes +next, attended by an active Jack-in-the-Green. Now an Indian doctor +appears, smoking a long pipe in his chariot, drawn by a Brahmin bull. +Another band, and then the rear is brought up by more cavalry. There +were seven bands--good ones, too--in the procession, which took full +twenty minutes to pass the hotel, on the balcony of which I stood. I +have seen the London Lord Mayor's Show, but must confess the Talbot +procession beats it hollow. + +After the procession, we all adjourned to the race-course, where the +collection for the hospital was to be made. The admission was +eighteen-pence; a good sum for working people to give, yet everybody +was there. There was an amateur Richardson's show, a magician's tent, +Cheap John's merry-go-rounds, and all sorts of amusements to be had by +paying for them; and, above all, there was the bazaar, presided over +by the ladies of Talbot, who succeeded in selling a large quantity of +useless things at the usual exorbitant prices. There was also a large +dancing-platform roofed with canvas, which was very well frequented. +Most popular of all, perhaps, were the refreshment-bars, where the +publicans gave the liquor free, but charged the usual prices for the +good of the hospital fund; and the teetotallers, not to be outdone, +managed a very comfortable tea-room. In short, all the usual +expedients for raising money were cleverly resorted to, and the result +was that between 1400_l._ and 1500_l._ was added to the funds of the +hospital, about 500_l._ of which was taken at the ladies' bazaar. +Altogether, there were not less than 5000 people on the ground, though +I believe the newspapers gave a considerably higher number. + +The Avoca races were not very different from races in England. Every +town hereabouts has its races, even Majorca. The Carrisbrook +race-course, about four miles from our town, is considered second to +none in the colony. Avoca, however, is a bigger place, and the races +there draw a much larger crowd. We drove the twenty miles thither by +road and bush-track. The ground was perfectly dry, for there had been +no rain for some time; and, as the wind was in our faces, it drove the +clouds of dust behind us. I found the town itself large and +well-built. What particularly struck me was the enormous width of the +main street,--at least three chains wide. The houses on either side of +the road were so remote from each other that they might have belonged +to different townships. I was told that the reason of this great width +of street was, that the Government had reserved this broad space of +ground, the main street of Avoca forming part of the road to Adelaide, +which may at some future time become a great and crowded highway. One +of the finest buildings in the town is a handsome hotel, built of +stone and brick, provided with a ball-room, billiard-rooms, and such +like. It is altogether the finest up-country place of the kind that I +have seen. Here we put up, and join the crowd of loungers under the +verandah. Young swells got up in high summer costume--cutaway coats, +white hats, and blue net veils--just as at Epsom on the Derby Day. +There are also others, heavy-looking colonials, who have come out +evidently to make a day of it, and are already freely imbibing cold +brandy and water. Traps and cars are passing up and down the street, +in quest of passengers for the race-course, about two miles from the +town. + +There we find the same sort of entertainments provided for the public +as on like occasions at home. The course is about a mile and a half in +extent, with the ground well cleared. There is the saddling paddock, +in which the "knowing ones" take great interest; and there are the +usual booths for the sale of refreshments, and especially of drink. In +front of the Grand Stand the betting-men from Melbourne are pointed +out to me,--a sharp, rough-looking set they are, dressed in Tweed +suits and flash ties, wearing diamond rings. One of them, a +blear-eyed, tall, strong man, with bushy brown whiskers, bawling out +his "two to one" on such and such a horse--an ugly-looking +customer--was described to me as "the _second_ biggest blackguard in +Victoria; give him a wide berth." Another of the betting-men was +pointed out to me as having been a guard on the South-Eastern Railway +some ten years ago. I need not describe the races: they were like most +others. There were flat races and hurdle races. Six horses ran for the +District Plate. Four of them came in to the winning-post, running neck +and neck. The race was won by only a head. + +My friend remained on the course until it was too late to return to +Majorca that night. As the moon did not rise until towards morning, we +were under the necessity of waiting until then, otherwise we might get +benighted in the bush. We tried to find a bed in the hotel, but in +vain. All the beds and sofas in Avoca were occupied. Even the billiard +tables were engaged for the night. + +We set out on our return journey to Majorca just as the moon was +rising. She was only in her second quarter, and did not yet give light +enough to enable us to see the road very clearly, so that we went very +cautiously at first. While my companion drove, I snatched the +opportunity for a sleep. I nodded and dozed from time to time, +wakening up suddenly to find a large bright star blinking before my +eyes. The star sank lower and lower towards the horizon. The +green-gold rays of the morning sun rose up to meet it. The star +hovered between the pale growing light below and the dark blue sky +above. Then it melted away in the glow of sunrise. The half-moon still +cast our shadow on the dusty track. But not for long. The zone of +yellow light in the east grows rapidly larger and brighter. The +brilliant edge of the god of day tips the horizon; a burst of light +follows; and now the morning sun, day's harbinger, "comes dancing up +the east." The summits of the trees far away in the silent bush are +bathed in gold. The near trees, that looked so weird-like in the +moon's half light, are now decked in green. The chill of the night has +departed. It is already broad day. By the time we reach Amherst, eight +miles from Majorca, we are glad to shade ourselves from the blazing +sun. In an hour more we reach our destination, and after breakfast and +a bath, are ready to begin the day's duties. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 13: The population, in 1857, was 4971; in 1861, 21,104. It +is now nearly 50,000.] + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +CONCLUSION OF MAJORCAN LIFE. + +VICTORIAN LIFE ENGLISH--ARRIVAL OF THE HOME MAIL--NEWS OF THE +FRANCO-GERMAN WAR--THE GERMAN SETTLERS IN MAJORCA--THE SINGLE +FRENCHMAN--MAJORCAN PUBLIC TEAS--THE CHURCH--THE RANTERS--THE +TEETOTALLERS--THE COMMON SCHOOL--THE ROMAN CATHOLICS--COMMON SCHOOL +FETE AND ENTERTAINMENT--THE MECHANICS' INSTITUTE--FUNERAL OF THE TOWN +CLERK--DEPARTURE FROM MAJORCA--THE COLONY OF VICTORIA. + + +The reader will observe, from what I have above written, that life in +Victoria is very much like life in England. There are the same people, +the same callings, the same pleasures and pursuits, and, as some would +say, the same follies and vices. There are the same religious bodies, +the same political movements, the same social agencies--Teetotal +Societies, Mechanics' Institutes, Friendly Societies, and such like. +Indeed, Victoria is only another England, with a difference, at the +Antipodes. The character, the habits of life, and tone of thought of +the people, are essentially English. + +You have only to see the interest with which the arrival of every mail +from England is watched, to recognise the strength of the tie that +continues to unite the people of the colony with those of the Old +Country. A flag is hoisted over the Melbourne Post Office to announce +its coming, and soon the news is flashed by telegraph all over the +colony. Every local post-office is eagerly besieged by the expecters +of letters and newspapers. Speaking for myself, my most exciting day +in the month was that on which my home letters arrived; and I wrote at +intervals all through the month against the departure of the outgoing +mail. + +The excitement throughout the colony became intense when the news +arrived from England of the defeat of the French before Metz. The +first news came by the 'Point de Galle,' and then, six days later, +intelligence was received _via_ San Francisco, of the disaster at +Sedan. Crowds besieged the office of the local paper at Talbot when +the mail was telegraphed; and the doors had to be shut to keep them +out until the telegram could be set up in type and struck off. At +first the news was not believed, it was so extraordinary and +unexpected; but the Germans in the town accepted it at once as true, +and began their rejoicings forthwith. The Irish at Talbot were also +very much excited, and wished to have a fight, but they did not +exactly know with whom. + +There are considerable numbers of Germans settled throughout the +colony, and they are a very useful and industrious class of settlers. +They are for the most part sober and hard-working men. I must also add +that they minister in no small degree to the public amusement. At +Maryborough they give very good concerts. Here, the only band in the +town is furnished by the German settlers, and being a very good one, +it is in request on all public occasions. The greater number of the +Germans live at MacCullum's Creek, about a mile distant, where they +have recently opened a Verein or Club, celebrating the event, as +usual, by a dance. It was a very gay affair. The frantic Deutschers +and their Fraus danced like mad things--Tyrolese waltzes and +old-fashioned quadrilles. There was a great deal of singing in praise +of Vaterland and Freundschaft, with no end of "Hochs!" They kept it +up, I was told, until broad daylight, dispersing about eight o'clock +in the morning. + +The Germans also give an annual picnic, which is a great event in the +place. There is a procession in the morning, headed by their band and +the German tri-colour flag. In the afternoon there are sports; and in +the evening continuous dancing in a large marquee. One of the chief +sports of the afternoon is "Shooting at the Eagle" with a cross-bow, +and trying to knock off the crown or sceptre from the effigy of a +bird, crowned with an eagle and holding a sceptre, stuck up on the top +of a high pole. The crown or the sceptre represents a high prize, and +each feather struck off represents a prize of some value or other. + +The French have only one representative in the town. As I soon got to +know everybody in the place, dropping in upon them in their houses, +and chatting with them about the last news from home, I also made the +acquaintance of the Frenchman. He had last come from Buenos Ayres, +accompanied by Madame. Of course the news about the defeat of the +French army was all false--merely a vile _canard_. We shall soon know +all. I confess I like this French couple very much. Their little house +is always so trim and neat. Fresh-plucked flowers are usually set out +on the mantel-piece, on the arrangement and decoration of which Madame +evidently prides herself. Good taste is so cheap and so pleasant a +thing, that I wish it were possible for these French people to +inoculate their neighbours with a little of it. But rough plenty seems +to be sufficient for the Anglo-Saxon. + +I must tell you of a few more of the doings of the place, to show how +very much life here resembles life in England. The place is of course +newer, the aggregation of society is more recent, life is more rough +and ready, more free and easy, and that is nearly all the difference. +The people have brought with them from the old country their habits of +industry, their taste for holidays, their religious spirit, their +desire for education, their love of home life. + +Public Teas are an institution in Majorca, as at home. There being but +little provision for the maintenance of religious worship, there is a +constant whipping up for money; and tea-meetings are usually resorted +to for the purpose of stimulating the flagging energies of the people. +Speakers from a distance are advertised, provisions and hot water are +provided in abundance; and after a gorge of tea and buns, speeches are +fired off, and the hat goes round. + +We had a great disappointment on one occasion, when the Archdeacon of +Castlemaine was advertised to preach a sermon in aid of our church +fund, and preside at the subsequent tea-meeting. Posters were stuck +up; great preparatory arrangements were made; but the Archdeacon did +not come. Some hitch must have occurred. But we had our tea +nevertheless. + +The Ranters also are great at tea-meetings, but still greater at +revival meetings. Matthew Burnett, "the great Yorkshire evangelist," +came to our town to rouse us from our apathy, and he certainly +contrived to work up many people, especially women, to a high pitch of +excitement. The meetings being held in the evenings, and continued far +into the nights, the howling, shouting, and groaning were by no means +agreeable noises to such sinners in their immediate neighbourhood as +slept lightly,--of whom I was one. + +Burnett was at the same time the great star of the Teetotallers, who +held him in much esteem. He was a man of a rough sort of eloquence, +probably the best suited for the sort of people whom he came to +address and sought to reclaim; for fine tools are useless for doing +rough work. Another very good speaker at their meetings was known as +Yankee Bill, whose homely appeals were often very striking, and even +affecting in a degree. At intervals they sang hymns, and sang them +very well. They thus cultivated some taste for music. They also kept +people for the time being out of their favourite "publics." Like many +teetotallers, however, they were very intolerant of non-teetotallers. +Some even went so far as to say that one must be a teetotaller to get +to heaven. Yet, notwithstanding all their exaggerations, the +teetotallers do much good; and their rough appeals often penetrate +hearts and heads that would be impervious to gentler and finer +influences. + +Let me not forget to mention the public entertainments got up for the +benefit of the common school of the town. The existing schools being +found too small for the large number of children who attend, it was +proposed to erect another wing for the purposes of an infant school. +With this object, active efforts were made to raise subscriptions; the +understanding being that the Government gives a pound for every pound +collected in the district. + +The difficulties in managing these common schools seem to be +considerable, where members of different religious persuasions sit on +the Managing Committee. At Majorca the principal difficulty seemed to +be with the Roman Catholics; and it was said that their priest had +threatened to refuse absolution to such parents as allowed their +children to attend the common school. Whatever truth there might be in +this story, it is certain that about thirty-six children _were_ +withdrawn, and instead of continuing to receive the elements of a good +education, they were entrusted to the care of an old man quite +incompetent for the office, but who was of the right faith. + +I was enlisted as a collector for the school fund, and went round +soliciting subscriptions; but I found it up-hill work. My district lay +in the suburbs, and I was by no means successful. A good many of +those I called upon were Ranters; and I suspect that the last +sensation preacher had carried off what otherwise might have fallen to +my share. I was tolerably successful with the diggers working at their +claims. At least they always gave me a civil answer. One of them said, +"Well, if our washing turns out well on Saturday, you shall have five +shillings." And the washing must have turned out well, for on Saturday +evening the digger honestly brought me the sum he had named. + +Further to help the fund, a fete was held in the open air, and an +entertainment was given by amateurs in the Prince of Wales's +Theatre,--for our little town also boasts of its theatre. The fete was +held on Easter Monday, which was kept as a holiday; and it commenced +with a grand procession of Odd Fellows, Foresters, German Verein, +Rechabites, and other clubs, all in their Sunday clothes, and many of +them wearing very gorgeous scarfs. The German band headed the +procession, which proceeded towards the paddock at MacCullum's Creek +used on such festive occasions. There all the contrivances usually +adopted for extracting money from the pockets of the visitors were in +full operation. There was a bazaar, in which all manner of useless +things were offered for sale; together with raffles, bowls, croquet, +dancing, shooting at the eagle, tilting at the ring, and all sorts of +sports; a small sum being paid on entry. I took up with a forlorn Aunt +Sally, standing idle without customers, and by dint of sedulous +efforts, contrived to gather about a pound in an hour and a half. All +did their best. And thus a pleasant day was spent, and a good round +sum of money was collected for the fund. + +The grand miscellaneous entertainment was also a complete success. The +theatre was filled with a highly-respectable audience, including many +gaily-dressed ladies, and all the belles of Majorca and the +neighbourhood. Indeed I wondered where they could all come from. The +performances excited the greater interest, as the whole of them were +by amateurs, well known in the place. The songs went off well; and +several of them were encored. After the concert, the seats were +cleared away, and the entertainment wound up with the usual dance. And +thus did we each endeavour to do our share of pleasant labour for the +benefit of the common school. + +The reading-room of the Mechanics' Institute is always a source of +entertainment when nothing else offers. The room is small but +convenient, and it contains a fair collection of books. The Telegraph +Office, the Post Office, Council Chamber, and Mechanics' Institute, +all occupy one building,--not a very extensive one,--being only a +one-storied wooden erection. One of the chief attractions of the +reading-room is a collection of Colonial papers, with 'Punch,' 'The +Illustrated News,' and the 'Irish Nation.' On Saturday nights, when +the diggers wash up and come into town, the room is always well filled +with readers. The members of the Committee are also very active in +getting up entertainments and popular readings; and, in short, the +Mechanics' Institute may be regarded as one of the most civilising +institutions in the place. + +But my time in Majorca was drawing to an end. One of the last public +events in which I took part was attending the funeral of our town +clerk, the first funeral I have ever had occasion to be present at. A +long procession followed his remains to the cemetery. Almost all the +men in the township attended, for the deceased was highly respected. +The service was very solemn, held under the bright, clear, blue +Australian sky. Poor old man! I knew him well. I had seen him so short +a time ago in the hospital, where, three hours before he died, he gave +me his blessing. He was then lying flushed, and in great pain. All +that is over now. "Dust to dust, and ashes to ashes." The earth +sounded as it fell upon his coffin; and now the good man sleeps in +peace, leaving a blessed memory behind him. + + * * * * * + +I was now under orders for home! My health was completely +re-established. I might have remained, and perhaps succeeded in the +colony. As it was, I carried with me the best wishes of my employers. +But I had no desire to pursue the career of bank-clerk further. I was +learning but little, and had my own proper business to pursue. So I +made arrangements for leaving Australia. Enough money had been +remitted me from England, to enable me to return direct by first-class +ship, leaving me free to choose my own route. As I might never have +another opportunity of seeing that great new country the United States +of America, the question occurred, whether I might not be able to +proceed up the Pacific to San Francisco, _via_ Honolulu, and cross +America by the Atlantic and Pacific Railway. On inquiry, I found it +would be practicable, but not by first-class. So I resolved to rough +it a little, and proceed by that route second class, for which purpose +my funds would be sufficient. I accordingly took my final leave of +Majorca early in December--just as summer was reaching its height; and +after spending three more pleasant weeks with my hospitable and kind +friends in Melbourne, took my passage in the steamer for Sydney, and +set sail the day after Christmas. + + * * * * * + +On looking over what I have above written about my life in Victoria, I +feel how utterly inadequate it is to give the reader an idea of the +country as a whole. All that I have done has merely been to write down +my first impressions, unpremeditatedly and faithfully, of what I saw, +and what I felt and did while there. Such a short residence in the +colony, and such a limited experience as mine was, could not have +enabled me--no matter what my faculty of observation, which is but +moderate--to convey any adequate idea of the magnitude of the colony +or its resources. To pretend to write an account of Victoria and +Victorian life from the little I saw, were as absurd as it would be +for a native-born Victorian, sixteen years old, to come over to +England, live two years in a small country town, and then write a book +of his travels, headed "England." And yet this is the way in which the +Victorians complain, and with justice, that they are treated by +English writers. Some eminent man arrives in the colony, spends a few +weeks in it, perhaps rushes through it by railway, and hastens home to +publish some contemptuous account of the people whom he does not +really know, or some hasty if not fallacious description of the +country which he has not really seen. I am sure that, however crude my +description may be, Victorians will not be offended with what I have +said of themselves and their noble colony; for, small though the +sphere of my observation was, they will see that I have written merely +to the extent of my knowledge, and have related, as faithfully as I +was able, the circumstances that came within the range of my own +admittedly limited, but actual experience of colonial life. + +[Illustration: SYDNEY, PORT JACKSON.] + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +ROUND TO SYDNEY. + +LAST CHRISTMAS IN AUSTRALIA--START BY STEAMER FOR SYDNEY--THE 'GREAT +BRITAIN'--CHEAP TRIPS TO QUEENSCLIFFE--ROUGH WEATHER AT SEA--MR. AND +MRS. C. MATHEWS--BOTANY BAY--OUTER SOUTH HEAD--PORT JACKSON--SYDNEY +COVE--DESCRIPTION OF SYDNEY--GOVERNMENT HOUSE AND DOMAIN--GREAT FUTURE +EMPIRE OF THE SOUTH. + + +I spent my last Australian Christmas with my kind entertainers in +Melbourne. Christmas scarcely looks like Christmas with the +thermometer at 90 deg. in the shade. But there is the same roast beef and +plum-pudding nevertheless, reminding one of home. The immense +garnishing of strawberries, however, now in season--though extremely +agreeable--reminds us that Christmas at the Antipodes must necessarily +differ in many respects from Christmas in England. + +The morning after Christmas Day saw me on board the steamer +'Raugatira,' advertised to start for Sydney at eleven. Casting off +from our moorings at the Sandridge pier, the ship got gradually under +weigh; and, waving my last adieu to friends on shore, I was again at +sea. + +We steamed close alongside the 'Great Britain'--which has for some +time been the crack ship between Australia and England. She had just +arrived from Liverpool with a great freight of goods and passengers, +and was lying at her moorings--a splendid ship. As we steamed out into +Hobson's Bay, Melbourne rose up across the flats, and loomed large in +the distance. All the summits seemed covered with houses--the towers +of the fine Roman Catholic Cathedral, standing on the top of a hill to +the right, being the last building to be seen distinctly from the bay. + +In about two hours we were at Queenscliffe, inside the Heads--at +present the fashionable watering place of Melbourne. Several excursion +steamers had preceded us, taking down great numbers of passengers, to +enjoy Boxing Day by the sea-side. The place looked very pretty indeed +from our ship's deck. Some of the passengers, who had taken places for +Sydney, were landed here, fearing lest the sea should be found too +rough outside the Heads. + +There had been very little wind when we left Sandridge, and the waters +of Port Phillip were comparatively smooth. But as we proceeded, the +wind began to rise, and our weather-wise friends feared lest they +should have to encounter a gale outside. We were now in sight of the +white line of breakers running across the Heads. There was still a +short distance of smooth water before us; but that was soon passed; +and then our ship dashed her prow into the waves and had to fight her +way as for very life against the heavy sea that rolled in through +Bass's Straits from the South Pacific. + +The only distinguished passengers on board are Mr. and Mrs. Charles +Mathews, who have been "starring" it in Victoria to some purpose. A +few nights ago, Mr. Mathews took his leave in a characteristic speech, +partly humorous and partly serious; but the enthusiastic audience +laughed and cheered him all the way through; and it was rather comic +to read the newspaper report of next morning, and to find that the +actor's passages of the softest pathos had been received with "roars +of laughter." + +Mr. Mathews seems to be one of the most perennially juvenile of men. +When he came on board at Sandridge, he looked as frisky and larky as a +boy. He skipped up and down the deck, and took an interest in +everything. This lasted so long as the water was smooth. When he came +in sight of the broken water at the Heads, I fancy his spirit +barometer went down a little. But when the ship began to put her nose +into the waves freely, a total change seemed to pass over him. I very +soon saw his retreating skirts. For the next three days--three long, +rough, wave-tossing days--very little was seen of him, and when he at +length did make his appearance on deck, alas! he seemed no longer the +brisk and juvenile passenger that had come on board at Sandridge only +a few days before. + +Indeed, it was a very rough and "dirty" passage. The passengers were +mostly prostrate during the whole of the voyage. The sea was rolling +in from the east in great billows, which our little boat breasted +gallantly; but it was tossed about like a cork, inclining at all sorts +of angles by turns. It was not much that I could see of the coast, +though at some places it is bold, at others beautiful. We passed very +near to it at Ram Head and Cape Howe--a grand promontory forming the +south-west point of Australia. + +On the third day from Melbourne, about daybreak, I found we were +steaming close along shore, under dark brown cliffs, not very high, +topped with verdure. The wind had gone down, but the boat was pitching +in the heavy sea as much as ever. The waves were breaking with fury +and noise along the beach under the cliffs. At 9 A.M. we passed Botany +Bay--the first part of New South Wales sighted by Captain Cook just a +hundred years ago. It was here that he first landed, and erected a +mound of stones and a flag to commemorate the event.[14] Banks and +Solander, who were with him, found the land covered with new and +beautiful flowers, and hence the name which was given it, of "Botany +Bay"--afterwards a name of terror, associated only with crime and +convict life. + +We steamed across the entrance to the bay, until we were close under +the cliffs of the outer South Head, guarding the entrance to Port +Jackson. The white Macquarie lighthouse on the summit of the Head is +seen plainly at a great distance. Steaming on, we were soon under the +inner South Head, and at the entrance to the famous harbour, said to +be the finest in the world. + +The opening into Port Jackson is comparatively narrow,--so much so, +that when Captain Cook first sailed past it, he considered it to be +merely a boat entrance, and did not examine it. While he was at +breakfast, the look-out man at the mast-head--a man named +Jackson--reported that he saw the entrance to what seemed a good +anchorage; and so the captain, half in derision, named it "Port +Jackson." The Heads seemed to me only about four hundred feet apart +from each other, the North Head somewhat overlapping the South. The +rocks appear to have broken off abruptly, and stand up perpendicularly +over against each other, about three hundred feet high, leaving a +chasm or passage between them which forms the entrance to Port +Jackson. When the Pacific rolls in full force against the Heads, the +waves break with great violence on the cliffs, and the spray is flung +right over the lighthouse on the South Head. Now that the sea has gone +somewhat down, the waves are not so furious, and yet the dash of the +spray half-way up the perpendicular cliffs is a grand sight. + +Once inside the Heads, the water becomes almost perfectly calm; the +scenery suddenly changes; the cliffs subside into a prettily-wooded +country, undulating and sloping gently to the water's edge. +Immediately within the entrance, on the south side, is a pretty little +village--the pilot station in Watson's Bay. After a few minutes' more +steaming, the ship rounds a corner, the open sea is quite shut out +from view, and neither Heads nor pilot station are to be seen. + +My attention is next drawn to a charming view on the north shore--a +delicious little inlet, beautifully wooded, and surrounded by a +background of hills, rising gradually to their highest height behind +the centre of the little bay. There, right in amongst the bright green +trees, I observe a gem of a house, with a broad terrace in front, and +steps leading down to the clear blue water. A few minutes more, and we +have lost sight of the charming nook, having rounded the headland of +the inlet--a rocky promontory covered with ferns and mosses. + +But our attention is soon absorbed by other beauties of the scene. +Before us lies a lovely island prettily wooded, with some three or +four fine mansions and their green lawns sloping down to the water's +edge; while on the left, the hills are constantly varying in aspect as +we steam along. At length, some seven miles up Port Jackson, the +spires and towers and buildings of Sydney come into sight; at first +Wooloomooloo, and then in ten minutes more, on rounding another point, +we find ourselves in Sydney Cove, alongside the wharf. Here we are in +the midst of an amphitheatre of beauty,--a wooded island opposite +covered with villas and cottages; with headlands, coves and bays, and +beautiful undulations of lovely country as far as the eye can reach. +Altogether, I think Port Jackson is one of the most charming pieces of +water and landscape that I have ever seen. + +After our three days tossing at sea, I was, however, glad to be on +shore again; so, having seen my boxes safely deposited in the +Californian baggage depot, I proceeded into the town and secured +apartments for the few days I was to remain in Sydney. + +From what I have already said of the approach to the landing, it will +be inferred that the natural situation of Sydney is very fine. It +stands upon a ridge of sandstone rock, which runs down into the bay in +numerous ridges or spines of land or rock, between which lie the +natural harbours of the place; and these are so deep, that vessels of +almost any burden may load and unload at the projecting wharves. Thus +Sydney possesses a very large extent of deep water frontage, and its +wharfage and warehouse accommodation is capable of enlargement to +almost any extent. Of the natural harbours formed by the projecting +spines of rock into the deep water, the most important are +Wooloomooloo Bay, Farm Cove, Sydney Cove, and Darling Harbour. + +From the waterside, the houses, ranged in streets, rise like so many +terraces up to the crown of the ridges,--the main streets occupying +the crests and flanks of two or three of the highest. One of these, +George Street, is a remarkably fine street, about two miles long, +containing many handsome buildings. + +My first knowledge of Sydney was acquired in a stroll up George +Street. We noticed the original old market-place, bearing the date of +1793; a quaint building, with queer old-fashioned domes, all +shingle-roofed. A little further on, we came to a large building in +course of erection--the new Town Hall, built of a yellowish sort of +stone. Near it is the English Cathedral--a large and elegant +structure. Further on, is the new Roman Catholic Cathedral,--the +original cathedral in Hyde Park having been burnt down some time ago. + +Altogether, Sydney has a much older look than Melbourne. It has grown +up at longer intervals, and does not look so spic and span new. The +streets are much narrower and more irregular--older-fashioned, and +more English in appearance--occasioned, doubtless, by its slower +growth and its more hilly situation. But it would also appear as if +there were not the same go-ahead spirit in Sydney that so +pre-eminently characterises her sister city. Instead of the +splendidly broad, well-paved, and well-watered streets of Melbourne, +here they are narrow, ill-paved, and dirty. Such a thing as the +miserable wooden hut which serves for a post-office would not be +allowed to exist for a day at Melbourne. It is the original office, +and has never been altered or improved since it was first put up. I +must, however, acknowledge that a new post-office is in course of +erection; but it shows the want of public spirit in the place that the +old shanty should have been allowed to stand so long. + +The railway terminus, at the end of George Street, is equally +discreditable. It is, without exception, the shabbiest, dirtiest shed +of the kind I have ever seen. They certainly need a little of the +Victorian spirit in Sydney. The Melbourne people, with such a site for +a city, would soon have made it one of the most beautiful places in +the world. As it is, nothing can surpass its superb situation; the +view over the harbour from some of the higher streets being +unequalled,--the numerous ships lying still, as if asleep on the calm +waters of the bay beneath, whilst the rocky promontories all round it, +clothed with verdure, are dotted with the villas and country mansions +of the Sydney merchants. + +One of the busiest parts of Sydney is down by the quays, where a great +deal of shipping business is carried on. There are dry docks, patent +slips, and one floating dock; though floating docks are of minor +importance here, where the depth of water along shore is so great, and +the rise and fall of the tide is so small. Indeed, Sydney Harbour may +be regarded as one immense floating dock. The Australasian Steam +Navigation Company have large ship-building and repairing premises at +Pyrmont, which give employment to a large number of hands. Certainly, +the commanding position of Sydney, and the fact of its being the chief +port of a great agricultural and pastoral country in the interior, +hold out the promise of great prosperity for it in the future. + +Every visitor to Sydney of course makes a point of seeing the +Government House and the Domain, for it is one of the principal sights +of the place. The Government buildings and park occupy the +double-headed promontory situated between Wooloomooloo Bay and Sydney +Cove. The Government House is a handsome and spacious castellated +building, in every way worthy of the colony; the views from some parts +of the grounds being of almost unparalleled beauty. There are nearly +four miles of drives in the park, through alternate cleared and wooded +grounds,--sometimes opening upon cheerful views of the splendid +harbour, then skirting the rocky shores, or retreating inland amidst +shadowy groves and grassy dells. The grounds are open to the public, +and the entrances being close upon the town and suburbs, this public +park of Sydney is one that for convenience and beauty, perhaps no +capital in the world surpasses. + +The Botanical Gardens are situated in what is called the outer Domain. +We enter the grounds under a long avenue of acacias and sycamores, +growing so close together as to afford a complete shade from the +noonday heat. At the end of the avenue, we came upon a splendid +specimen of the Norfolk Island pine, said to be the largest and finest +tree out of the island itself. After resting for a time under its +delicious shade, we strolled on through other paths overhung with all +sorts of flowering plants; then, passing through an opening in the +wall, a glorious prospect of the bay suddenly spread out before us. +The turf was green down to the water's edge, and interspersed with +nicely-kept flower beds, with here and there a pretty clump of trees. + +Down by the water side is a broad esplanade--the most charming of +promenades--running all round the beautiful little bay which it +encloses. Tropical and European shrubs grow in profusion on all sides; +an English rose-tree in full bloom growing alongside a bamboo; while, +at another place, a banana throws its shadow over a blooming bunch of +sweet pea, and a bell-flowered plant overhangs a Michaelmas daisy. A +fine view of the harbour and shipping is obtained from a part of the +grounds where Lady Macquarie's chair--a hollow place in a rock--is +situated;--itself worth coming a long way to see. Turning up the +gardens again, we come upon a monkey-house, an aviary, and--what +interested me more than all--an enclosed lawn in which were numerous +specimens of the kangaroo tribe, from the "Old Boomer" standing six +feet high, down to the Rock kangaroo not much bigger than a hare. We +hung about, watching the antics of the monkeys and the leapings of the +kangaroos until it was time to take our departure. + +The country inland, lying to the south of Sydney, is by no means +picturesque. Much of it consists of sandy scrub, and it is by no means +fertile, except in the valleys. But nothing can surpass the beauty of +the shores of the bay as far up as Paramatta, about twenty miles +inland. The richest land of the colony lies well into the interior, +but the time at my disposal was too short to enable me to do more than +visit the capital, with which the passing stranger cannot fail to be +greatly pleased. + +Altogether, it seems a wonderful thing that so much should have been +done within so short a time towards opening up the resources of this +great country. And most wonderful of all, that the people of a small +island like Britain, situated at the very opposite side of the globe, +some sixteen thousand miles off, should have come hither, and within +so short a time have built up such cities as Sydney and +Melbourne,--planted so large an extent of territory with towns, and +villages, and farmsteads--covered its pastures with cattle and +sheep--opened up its mines--provided it with roads, railroads, and +telegraphs, and thereby laid the firm foundations of a great future +empire in the south. Surely these are things of which England, amidst +all her grumblings, has some reason to be proud! + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 14: The Honourable Thomas Holt, on whose property the +landing-place is situated, last year erected an obelisk on the spot, +with the inscription "Captain Cook landed here 28th April, A.D. 1770," +with the following extract from Captain Cook's Journal: "At day-break +we discovered a bay, and anchored under the south shore, about two +miles within the entrance, in six fathom water, the south point +bearing S.E., and the north point east. Latitude 43 deg. S., Longitude +208 deg. 37' W."] + +[Illustration: AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND.] + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +TO AUCKLAND, IN NEW ZEALAND. + +LEAVING SYDNEY--ANCHOR WITHIN THE HEADS--TAKE IN MAILS AND PASSENGERS +FROM THE 'CITY OF ADELAIDE'--OUT TO SEA AGAIN--SIGHT NEW +ZEALAND--ENTRANCE TO AUCKLAND HARBOUR--THE 'GALATEA'--DESCRIPTION OF +AUCKLAND--FOUNDING OF AUCKLAND DUE TO A JOB--MAORI MEN AND +WOMEN--DRIVE TO ONEHUNGA--SPLENDID VIEW--AUCKLAND GALA--NEW ZEALAND +DELAYS--LEAVE FOR HONOLULU. + + +On the last day of December, 1870, I set out for Honolulu, in the +Sandwich Islands, embarking as second-class passenger on board the +'City of Melbourne.' Our first destination was Auckland, in New +Zealand, where we were to stop for a few days to take in passengers +and mails. + +I had been so fortunate as accidentally to encounter a friend, whom I +knew in Maryborough, in the streets of Sydney. He was out upon his +summer holiday, and when he understood that I was bound for New +Zealand, he determined to accompany me, and I had, therefore, the +pleasure of his society during the earlier part of my voyage. + +As we steamed down the harbour I had another opportunity of admiring +the beautiful little bays, and sandy coves, and wooded islets of Port +Jackson. The city, with its shipping, and towers, and spires, +gradually receded in the distance, and as we rounded a headland Sydney +was finally shut out from further view. + +We were soon close to the abrupt headlands which guard the entrance to +the bay, and letting drop our anchor just inside the southern head, we +lay safely sheltered from the gale which began to blow from the east. +There we waited the arrival of the 'City of Adelaide' round from +Melbourne, with the last mails and passengers for England by the +California route. + +But it was some time before the 'Adelaide' made her appearance. Early +next morning, hearing that she was alongside, I hurried on deck. The +mails were speedily brought off from the inward-bound ship, together +with seven more passengers. Our anchor was at once weighed, and in ten +more minutes we are off. We are soon at the entrance to the Heads; and +I see by the scud of the clouds, and the long line of foaming breakers +driving across the entrance, that before long we shall have the spray +flying over our hurricane deck. Another minute and we are outside, +plunging into the waves and throwing the water in foam from our bows. + +I remain upon deck, holding on as long as I can. Turning back, I see a +fine little schooner coming out of the Heads behind us, under a good +press of sail. On she came, dipping her bows right under the water, +but buoyant as a cork. Her men were aloft reefing a sail, her yards +seeming almost to touch the water as she leaned over to leeward. +Passing under our stern, she changed her course, and the plucky little +schooner held up along the coast, making for one of the northern +ports. + +Taking a last look at the Sydney Heads, I left the further navigation +of the ship in the hands of the captain, and retired below. I was too +much occupied by private affairs to see much more of the sea during +the next twenty-four hours. New Year's Day though it was, there was +very little jollity on board; indeed, as regarded the greater number +of the passengers, it was spent rather sadly. + +The weather, however, gradually moderated, until, on the third day of +our voyage, it became fine, such wind as there was being well aft. On +the fifth day, the wind had gone quite down, and there only remained +the long low roll of the Pacific; but the ship rolled so heavily that +I suspect there must have been a very strong under-current somewhere +about. Early in the forenoon we sighted the "Three Kings' Island," off +the extreme north coast of New Zealand. At first they seemed to +consist of three detached rocks; but as we neared them, they were +seen to be a number of small rocky islands, with very little +vegetation on them. The mainland shortly came in sight, though it was +still too distant to enable us to recognise its features. + +Early next morning, we found ourselves steaming close in shore past +Cape Brett, near the entrance to the Bay of Islands. The high cliffs +along the coast are bold and grand; here and there a waterfall is +seen, and occasionally an opening valley, showing the green woods +beyond. In the distance are numerous conical hills, showing the +originally volcanic character of the country. During the forenoon we +passed a huge rock that in the distance had the appearance of being a +large ship in full sail; hence its name of the "Sail Rock." + +The entrance to the harbour of Auckland, though by no means equal to +Port Jackson, is yet highly picturesque. On one side is the city of +Auckland, lying in a hollow, and extending up the steep hills on +either side; while opposite to it, on the north shore of the Frith of +Thames, is a large round hill, used as a pilot signal station. +Situated underneath it are many nice little villas, with gardens close +to the sea. The view extends up the inlets, which widens out and +terminates in a background of high blue mountains. From Auckland, as +from Sydney, the open sea is not to be seen--there are so many +windings in and out before the harbour is reached. + +A fine Queen's ship was lying at anchor in the bay, which, on inquiry, +we found to be the 'Galatea,' commanded by the Duke of Edinburgh. The +'Clio' also was anchored not far off. We were soon alongside the long +wooden pier, to which were also moored several fine clipper ships, and +made our way into the town. As the principal street continued straight +in from the pier, we were shortly enabled to see all the principal +buildings of the place. + +Though a small shipping town, there seems to be a considerable amount +of business doing at Auckland. There is a good market-place, some +creditable bank buildings, and some three or four fine shops, but the +streets are dirty and ill-paved. The Supreme Court and the Post +Office--both fine buildings--lie off the principal street. The +Governor's house, which occupies a hill to the right, commands a fine +view of the bay, as well as of the lovely green valley behind it. + +Auckland, like Sydney, being for the most part built upon high land, +is divided by ravines, which open out towards the sea in little coves +or bays--such as Mechanics' Bay, Commercial Bay, and Official Bay. The +buildings in Mechanics' Bay, as the name imports, are principally +devoted to ship-building, boat-building, and rope-making. The shore of +Commercial Bay is occupied by the store and shop-keeping people, while +Official Bay is surrounded by the principal official buildings, the +Government storehouses, and such like. + +I have been told here that Auckland is completely out of place as the +capital of the colony, being situated at the narrowest part of the +island, far away from the principal seats of population, which are in +Cook's Straits and even further south. The story is current that +Auckland is due to an early job of Government officials, who combined +to buy up the land about it and when it had been fixed upon as the +site of the capital, sold out their lots at fabulous prices, to the +feathering of their own nests. + +A great many natives, or Maoris, are hanging about the town. It seems +that they are here in greater numbers than usual, their votes being +wanted for the passing or confirmation of some land measure. Groups of +them stand about the streets talking and gesticulating; a still +greater number are hanging round the public-houses, which they enter +from time to time to have a drink. I cannot say I like the look of the +men; they look very ugly customers indeed--beetle-browed and +down-looking, "with foreheads villanous low." Their appearance is all +the more revolting by reason of the large blue circles of tattoo on +their faces. Indeed, when the New Zealander is fully tattooed, which +is the case with the old aristocrats, there is very little of his +original face visible, excepting perhaps his nose and his bright black +eyes. + +Most of the men were dressed in the European costume, though some few +were in their native blankets, which they wear with grace and even +dignity. The men were of fine physique--tall, strong, and +well-made--and, looking at their keen fierce eyes, I do not wonder +that they have given our soldiers so much trouble. I could not help +thinking, as I saw them hanging about the drinking-shops, some half +drunk, that English drink will in the long run prove their conquerors +far more than English rifles. + +There were many Maori women mingled with the men. Some of them were +good looking. Their skin is of a clear dark olive; their eyes dark +brown or black; their noses small and their mouths large. But nearly +all of them have a horrid blue tattoo mark on their lips, that serves +to give them--at least to European eyes--a repulsive look. + +Many of the women, as well as the men, wear a piece of native +greenstone hanging from their ears, to which is attached a long piece +of black ribbon. This stone is supposed by the Maoris to possess some +magical virtue. Others of them--men, as well as girls--have sharks' +teeth hanging from their ears and dangling about their faces,--the +upper part of the teeth being covered with bright red wax. + +Mixed with the Maoris were the sailors of the 'Galatea,' rolling about +the streets, and, like them, frequent customers of the public-houses. +In fact, the sailors and the Maoris seemed to form a considerable +proportion of the population of the place. + +The landlord of the hotel at which we stayed--the 'Waitemata'--having +recommended us to take a drive into the interior, we set out at midday +by stage coach for Onehunga. Auckland being situated at the narrowest +part of the North Island, Onehunga, which is on the west coast, is +only seven miles distant by land, though five hundred by water. + +The coach started at noon, and it was hard work for the four horses +to drag the vehicle up the long steep hill at the back of the town. +Nice country-houses stood on both sides of the road, amidst fresh +green gardens; the houses almost buried in foliage. + +From the high road a magnificent landscape stretched before us. It +reminded me very much of a particular view of the Lake of Geneva, +though this was even more grand and extensive. The open sea was at +such a distance, and so shut out by intervening high land, that it was +scarcely visible. The lovely frith or bay, with its numerous inlets, +islands, and surrounding bright green hills, lay at our feet. The blue +water wound in and out amongst the hills on our right for a distance +of about fifteen miles. There was a large open stretch of water, +surrounded by high mountains, towards the west. Right before us was +the entrance to the bay, with the pilot-station hill on one side and +Mount Victoria on the other. Between these two hills, high land stood +up in the distance, so that the whole gave one the impression of a +beautiful inland lake rather than of a sea view. It was, without +exception, the most magnificent prospect I had ever looked upon. Yet +they tell me this is surpassed by the scenery in other parts of New +Zealand; in which case it must indeed be an exceedingly picturesque +country. + +We drove along through a pretty green country, with fine views of the +plains toward the right, bounded by distant blue mountains. In about +another quarter of an hour, after passing through the village of +Epsom, we came in sight of the sea on the west coast, and were +shortly set down at Onehunga, on the shore of Manukau Bay. Onehunga is +a small township, containing a few storehouses, besides +dwelling-houses, with an hotel or two. The view here was also fine, +but not so interesting as that on the eastern side of the island. +Plains, bounded by distant mountains, extended along the coast on one +side, and high broken cliffs ran along the shore and bounded the sea +in front of us. After an hour's rest, at Onehunga, we returned to +Auckland, enjoying the drive back very much, in spite of the +inconveniently-crowded coach. + +There was a sort of gala in Auckland that evening. A promenade concert +was given on the parade-ground at the barracks, at which the band of +the 'Galatea' played to the company. The Prince himself, it was +announced, would perform on the occasion. It was a fine moonlight +night, and the inhabitants of Auckland turned out in force. There must +have been at least two thousand well-dressed people promenading about, +listening to the music. The Prince's elephant was there too, and +afforded a good deal of amusement. How the poor brute was slung out of +the 'Galatea,' got on shore, and got back on ship-board again, was to +me a mystery. + +I went down to the steamer at the appointed time of sailing, but found +that the 'City' was not to leave for several hours after time. The +mail express was to wait until Mr. and Mrs. Bandman--who had been +acting in Auckland--had received some presentation from the officers +of the 'Galatea'! It seemed odd that a mail steamer should be delayed +some hours to suit the convenience of a party of actors. But there +are strange doings connected with this mail line. Time is of little +moment here; and, in New Zealand, I suspect time is even less valued +than usual. They tell me that few mails leave New Zealand without +having to wait, on some pretext or another. There does not seem to be +the same activity, energy, and business aptitude that exists in the +Australian colonies. The Auckland people seem languid and half asleep. +Perhaps their soft, relaxing, winterless climate has something to do +with it. + +Having nothing else to occupy me before the ship sailed, I took leave +of my Australian friend, gave him my last messages for Maryborough and +Majorca, and went on board. I was wakened up about midnight by the +noise of the anchor coming up; and, in a few minutes more, we were off +and on our way to Honolulu up the Pacific. + + + + +CHAPTER XX. + +UP THE PACIFIC. + +DEPARTURE FOR HONOLULU--MONOTONY OF A VOYAGE BY +STEAM--DESAGREMENS--THE "GENTLEMEN" PASSENGERS--THE ONE SECOND CLASS +"LADY"--THE RATS ON BOARD--THE SMELLS--FLYING FISH--CROSS THE +LINE--TREATMENT OF NEWSPAPERS ON BOARD--HAWAII IN SIGHT--ARRIVAL AT +HONOLULU. + + +When I went on deck next morning, we had left New Zealand far behind +us; not a speck of land was to be seen, and we were fairly on our way +to Honolulu. We have before us a clear run of about four thousand +miles, and if our machinery and coal keep good, we know that we shall +do it easily in about seventeen days. + +Strange though it may seem, there is much greater monotony in a voyage +on board a steamer than there is on board a sailing vessel. There is +nothing like the same interest felt in the progress of the ship, and +thus one unfailing topic of conversation and speculation is shut out. +There are no baffling winds, no sleeping calms, alternating with a +joyous and invigorating run before the wind, such as we had when +coming out, from Plymouth to the Cape. We only know that we shall do +our average ten miles an hour, be the weather what it may. If the wind +is blowing astern, we run before it; if ahead, we run through it. +Fair or foul it matters but little. + +[Illustration: (Maps of the Ship's Course up the Pacific, Auckland, +and Sydney, Port Jackson)] + +A voyage by a steamer, compared with one by sailing ship, is what a +journey by railway train is to a drive across country in a well-horsed +stage coach. There is, however, this to be said in favour of the +former,--we know that, monotonous though it be, it is very much sooner +over; and on a voyage of some thousands of miles, we can calculate to +a day, and almost to an hour, when we shall arrive at our +destination. + +But, to be set against the shorter time consumed on the voyage, there +are numerous little _desagremens_. There is the dismal, never-ending +grind, grind of the screw, sometimes, when the ship rolls, and the +screw is out of the water, going round with a horrible _birr_. At such +times, the vessel has a double motion, pitching and rolling, and +thereby occasioning an inexpressibly sickly feeling. Then, when the +weather is hot, there is the steam of heated oil wafted up from the +engine-room, which, mingled with the smell of bilge, and perhaps +cooking, is anything but agreeable or appetizing. I must also +acknowledge that a second-class berth, which I had taken, is not +comparable in point of comfort to a first; not only as regards the +company, but as regards smells, food, and other surroundings. + +There are not many passengers at my end, and the few there are do not +make themselves very agreeable. First, there are two German Jews, +grumbling and growling at everything. They are a couple of the most +cantankerous fellows I ever came across; never done knagging, +swearing, grunting, and bellowing. They keep the steward, who is an +obliging sort of fellow, in a state of constant "wax;" which, when I +want anything done for me, I have to remedy by tipping. So that they +are likely to prove somewhat costly companions, though in a peculiar +way. + +Next, there is a German Yankee, a queer old fellow, who came on board +at Auckland. He seems to have made some money at one of the New +Zealand gold fields called "The Serpentine," somewhere near Dunedin. +This old fellow and I cotton together very well. He is worth a dozen +of the other two Germans. He had been all through the American war +under Grant, and spins some long yarns about the Northerners and the +"cussed rebs." + +As there are twenty-seven bunks in our cabin, and only four +passengers, there is of course plenty of room and to spare. But there +is also a "lady" passenger at our end of the ship, and she has all the +fifteen sleeping-places in her cabin to herself. It might be supposed +that, there being only one lady, she would be in considerable demand +with her fellow-passengers. But it was quite the contrary. Miss +Ribbids, as I will call her, proved to be a most uninteresting +individual. I am sorry to have to confess to so much ungallantry; but +the only effort which I made, in common with the others, was to avoid +her--she was so hopelessly dense. One night she asked me, quite +seriously, "If that was the same moon they had at Sydney?"! I am sure +she does not know that the earth is round. By stretching a hair across +the telescope glass, I made her look in and showed her the Line, but +she did not see the joke. She gravely asked if we should not land at +the Line: she understood there was land there! Her only humour is +displayed at table, when anything is spilt by the rolling of the ship, +when she exclaims, "Over goes the apple-cart!" But enough of the awful +Miss Ribbids. + +There are, however, other passengers aboard that must not be +forgotten--the rats! I used to have a horror of rats, but here I soon +became used to them. The first night I slept on board I smelt +something very disgusting as I got into my bunk; and at last I +discovered that it arose from a dead rat in the wainscot of the ship. +My nose being somewhat fastidious as yet, I moved to the other side of +the cabin. But four kegs of strong-smelling butter sent me quickly out +of that. I then tried a bunk next to the German Jews, but I found +proximity to them was the least endurable of all; and so, after many +changes, I at last came back and slept contentedly beside my unseen +and most unsavoury companion, the dead rat. + +But there are plenty of living and very lively rats too. One night a +big fellow ran over my face, and in a fright I cried out. But use is +everything, and in the course of a few more nights I got quite rid of +my childish astonishment and fear at rats running over my face. Have +you ever heard rats sing? I assure you they sing in a very lively +chorus; though I confess I have heard much pleasanter music in my +time. + +Amidst all these little troubles, the ship went steadily on. During +the second night, after leaving Auckland, the wind began to blow +pretty fresh, and the hatch was closed. It felt very close and stuffy +below, that night. The light went out, and the rats had it all their +own way. On the following day, it was impossible to go on deck without +getting wet through, so we were forced to stick down below. The +rolling of the ship was also considerable. + +Next day was fine, but hot. The temperature sensibly and even rapidly +increases as we approach the Line. We see no land, though we have +passed through amongst the Friendly Islands, with the Samoa or +Navigator's Islands lying to the west. It is now a clear course to +Honolulu. Not being able to go on deck in the heat of the day, at risk +of sun-stroke, I wait until the sun has gone down, and then slip on +deck with my rug and pillow, and enjoy a siesta under the stars. But +sometimes I am disturbed by a squall, and have to take refuge below +again. + +As the heat increases, so do the smells on board. In passing from the +deck to our cabin, I pass through seven distinct perfumes:--1st, the +smell from the galley smoke; 2nd, the perfume of decaying vegetables +stored on the upper deck; 3rd, fowls; 4th, dried fish; 5th, oil and +steam from the engine-room; 6th, meat undergoing the process of +cooking; 7th, the galley by which I pass; until I finally enter No. 8, +our own sweet cabin, with the butter, the rats, and the German Jews. + +We are again in the midst of the flying fish; but they interest me +nothing like so vividly as they did when I first saw them in the +Atlantic. Some of them take very long flights, as much as thirty or +forty yards. Whole shoals of them fly away from the bows of the ship +as she presses through the water. + +On the 19th of January we crossed the Line, in longitude about 160 deg.. +We continue on a straight course, making an average of about 240 miles +a day. It already begins to get cooler, as we are past the sun's +greatest heat. It is a very idle, listless life; and I lie about on +the hen-coops all day, reading, or sitting down now and then to write +up this log, which has been written throughout amidst discomfort and +under considerable difficulties. + +One of my fellow-passengers is enraged at the manner in which +newspapers are treated while in transit. If what he says be true, I +can easily understand how it is that so many newspapers miscarry--how +so many numbers of 'Punch' and the 'Illustrated News' never reach +their destination. My informant says that when an officer wants a +newspaper, the mail-bag is opened, and he takes what he likes. He +might just as well be permitted to have letters containing money. Many +a poor colonial who cannot write a letter, buys and despatches a +newspaper to his friends at home, to let them know he is alive; and +this is the careless and unfaithful way in which the missive is +treated by those to whom its carriage is entrusted. I heard many +complaints while in Victoria, of newspapers containing matter of +interest never reaching their address; from which I infer that the +same practice more or less prevails on the Atlantic route. It is +really too bad. + +As we steam north, the weather grows fine, and we begin to have some +splendid days and glorious sunsets. But we are all longing eagerly to +arrive at our destination. At length, on the morning of the 24th of +January, we discerned the high land of the island of Hawaii, about +seventy miles off, on our beam. That is the island where Captain Cook +was murdered by the natives, in 1779. We saw distinctly the high +conical volcanic mountain of Mauna Loa, 14,000 feet high, its peak +showing clear above the grey clouds. + +We steamed on all day, peering ahead, looking out for the land. Night +fell, and still our port was not in sight. At length, at about ten, +the lighthouse on the reef which stretches out in front of Honolulu, +shone out in the darkness. Then began a little display of fireworks, +and rockets and blue lights were exchanged between our ship and the +shore. A rocket also shot up from a steamer to seaward, and she was +made out to be the 'Moses Taylor,' the ship that is to take us on to +San Francisco. + +At about one in the morning, we take our pilot on board, and shortly +after, my German friends rouse me with the intelligence that we are +alongside the wharf. I am now, however, getting an "old bird;" my +enthusiasm about novelty has gone down considerably; and I decline the +pleasure of accompanying them on shore at this early hour. Honolulu +will doubtless wait for me until morning. + +[Illustration: HONOLULU, SANDWICH ISLANDS.] + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +HONOLULU AND THE ISLAND OF OAHU. + +THE HARBOUR OF HONOLULU--IMPORTANCE OF ITS SITUATION--THE +CITY--CHURCHES AND THEATRES--THE POST OFFICE--THE SUBURBS--THE KING'S +PALACE--THE NUUANU VALLEY--POI--PEOPLE COMING DOWN THE VALLEY--THE +PALI--PROSPECT FROM THE CLIFFS--THE NATIVES (KANAKAS)--DIVERS--THE +WOMEN--DRINK PROHIBITION--THE CHINESE--THEATRICALS--MUSQUITOES. + + +When I came on deck in the early morning, the sun was rising behind +the mountains which form the background of Honolulu as seen from the +harbour, tipping them with gold and red, and bathing the landscape in +beauty. I could now survey at leisure the lovely scene. + +I found we had entered a noble harbour, round which the town of +Honolulu is built, with its quays, warehouses and shipyards. Looking +seaward, I observe the outer bay is nearly closed in at its lower +extremity by the long ridge-like hill, called Diamond Head. Nearer at +hand, behind the town, is a remarkable eminence called Punchbowl Hill, +evidently of volcanic origin, crowned with a battery, and guarding the +entrance to the smaller bay which forms the harbour. + +The entrance to the harbour is through a passage in one of the coral +reefs which surround the island, the coral insects building upwards +from the submerged flanks of the land, until the reefs emerge from the +waves, more or less distant from the shore. As the water at the +shallowest part of the entrance is only about twenty-two feet, vessels +of twenty-feet draught and over have to remain outside, where, +however, there is good anchorage and shelter, unless when the wind +blows strong from the south. The water inside the reefs is usually +smooth, though the waves outside may be dashing themselves to foam on +their crests. + +A glance at the situation of the Sandwich Islands on the map will +serve to show the important part they are destined to play in the +future commerce of the Pacific. They lie almost directly in the course +of all ships passing from San Francisco and Vancouver to China and +Japan, as well as to New Zealand and Australia. They are almost +equidistant from the coasts of Russia and America, being rather +nearer to the American coast, from which they are distant about 2100 +miles. They form, as it were, a stepping-stone on the great ocean +highway of the Pacific between the East and the West--between the old +world and the new--as well as between the newest and most prosperous +settlements in the Western States of America and Australia. And it is +because Honolulu--the principal town in the island of Oahu, and the +capital of the Sandwich Islands--possesses by far the best, most +accessible, and convenient harbour, that it is a place likely to +become of so much importance in the future. It has not been unusual to +see as many as from a hundred to a hundred and fifty sail riding +securely at anchor there. + +[Illustration: (Map of Oahu, Sandwich Islands)] + +As seen from the harbour, Honolulu is an extremely pretty place. It +lies embowered in fresh green foliage, the roofs of the houses peeping +up here and there from amongst the trees, while the waving fronds of +the cocoa-nut palms rise in some places majestically above them, +contrasting strangely with the volcanic crags and peaks which form the +distant background. In the older part of the town, to the right, the +houses are more scattered about; and from the first appearance of the +place, one would scarcely suppose that it contained so large a +population as twelve thousand, though many of the houses are +doubtless hidden by the foliage and the undulations of the ground on +which the place is built. + +Behind the town, a plain of about two miles in width extends to the +base of the mountain range which forms its background. The +extraordinary shapes of the mountains--their rugged ravines and +precipitous peaks--unmistakably denote the volcanic agencies that have +been at work in forming the islands, and giving to the scenery its +most marked features. Just at the back of the town, a deep valley, or +rather gorge, runs through a break in the hills, the sides of which +are covered with bright green foliage. The country, which rises +gradually up to this break in the mountains, is exceedingly +picturesque. Altogether, the first sight of the place came fully up to +my anticipations of the beauty of a tropical town in the Pacific. + +I proceeded to take my first walk through Honolulu at half-past five +in the morning. It was the 25th of January--the dead of winter; but +there is no winter in Honolulu. It is as warm as August is in England; +and the warmth of the place all the year through is testified by the +fact that there is not a dwelling-house chimney in the town. I walked +along the shady streets up to the market-place, and there I found a +number of the natives squatted on their haunches, selling plantains, +oranges, bananas, fruits, and vegetables. I invested sixpence in an +enormous bunch of bananas, which I carried back with me to the ship +for the use of our party, very much to their enjoyment, for the fruit +was in perfection. + +In the course of the forenoon I proceeded to explore Honolulu at +greater leisure. I found the central portion of the town consisted of +regularly laid out streets, many of the houses enclosed within +gardens. The trees standing here and there amongst the shops and +warehouses give them a fresh and primitive look. I pass several places +of worship in going to the Post Office,--the English Cathedral, +chapels of American Congregationalists, Wesleyan Methodists, and Roman +Catholics. There is also the Royal Hawaiian Theatre, and an Equestrian +Circus, as well as a Police Office. Police? "Yes; bless you, sir, we +are civilised!" + +I could see the Post Office a long way off before I reached it, +standing in a small square at the head of one of the principal +streets. It was easily known by the crowd of people, both natives and +foreigners, on the steps. For the mail had just come in by the 'Moses +Taylor,' and everybody was anxious to know what had been the upshot of +the European war and the siege of Paris. That war even threatens to +disturb the peace of Honolulu itself; for there is now a French +man-of-war at anchor in the harbour, the 'Hamelin,' watching a fine +German merchant ship, the 'Count Bismarck,' that arrived a few days +before the Frenchman. The Germans have taken the precaution to paint +"Honolulu" on the stern of their vessel, and to place themselves under +the protection of the Hawaiian Government. So the commander of the +French ship, finding he can make no capture here, has weighed anchor +and steamed out of port, doubtless to lie in wait for the German +vessel outside should she venture to put to sea. + +I found the Post Office a sort of joint post-office and stationer's +shop, the principal business consisting in the sale of newspapers. I +was amazed to find that though a steamer runs regularly from Honolulu +to Australia there is no postal communication with Victoria, except +_via_ America and England! This is on account of the Victorian +Government refusing to subsidize the new Californian and Australian +mail line. Should such a line become established and prosper, the +Victorians fear that an advantage would be given to Sydney, and that +Melbourne, instead of being on the main line of mail communication, as +it now is, would be shunted on to a branch. But surely there is room +enough for a mail line by both the Atlantic and Pacific routes, +without occasion for jealousy either on the part of Sydney or +Melbourne. + +After settling my business at the Post Office, accompanied by my +German-Yankee fellow-passenger, I took a stroll round the town and +suburbs; though it is so open and green that it seems _all_ suburbs. +We invested a small sum in oranges, which we found in perfection, and +sucked them as we went along in the most undignified way possible. We +directed our steps to that part of the town where the better class +seemed to reside, in cool, shady lanes, the houses embowered in +large-leaved tropical trees, cocoa-nut, banana, bread-fruit, calabash, +and other palms, with cycas and tree-ferns with stems some fifteen +feet high. Flower-bearing shrubs also abounded, such as the Hibiscus, +Mairi, of which the women make wreaths, and Gardenia, with the flowers +of which they also adorn themselves. In some of the gardens water was +laid on, and pretty fountains were playing, from which it would appear +that the water supply is good, and that there is a good head of it in +some mountain reservoir above. + +We strolled along to the right of the town, towards the high volcanic +mountain on which the fort is situated, the long extinct crater +showing plainly on its summit. Some years since, when a French ship +bombarded the town, the Kanakas who manned the fort, threw down their +sponges, rammers, and all, directly the first shot was fired, leaving +the fort to take care of itself. + +We returned to the harbour by way of the King's palace, which is in +the centre of the town, and may be known by the royal flag floating +over it. The palace is built of coral stone, and is an unpretending +building, reminding one of a French _maison de campagne_. It stands in +about an acre of ground, ornamented with flowers, shrubs, and an +avenue of kukui and koa-trees. A native sentry stood at the gate in +his uniform of blue coat and white trousers, and with his musket duly +shouldered in regulation style. + +On the following day I made an excursion with an American gentleman, +who is something of a naturalist, to the remarkable valley, or gorge, +in the mountains at the back of the town, which had so attracted my +notice when I first saw it from the deck of our ship. It is called the +Nuuanu Valley, and is well worthy of a visit. The main street of the +town leads directly up to the entrance to the valley; and on the road +we passed many pretty low-roofed houses surrounded by beautifully-kept +gardens, the houses being those of the chief merchants and consuls of +the port. They looked quite cool and pleasant, embowered in green +papyrus, tamarind, and palm-trees, which shaded them from the hot +tropical sun with their large-leaved foliage. I find the sun now, in +winter-time, so hot that it is almost intolerable. What must it be in +summer? + +As we proceed, we reach the fertile land, which nearly all lies at the +foot of the mountains, the long disintegration of the high ground +having left a rich deposit for vegetable growth. Some patches of +arrowroot lie close to the road, irrigated by the streams that run +down from the mountain above. But the principal crop is the taro-plant +(_Arum esculentum_), from which the native food of _poi_ is made. Let +me say a few words about this _poi_, as it forms the main staple of +Hawaiian food. The taro is grown in pits or beds, kept very wet,--in +which case, urged by the natural heat of the climate, it grows with +immense rapidity and luxuriance. It is the succulent root which is +used for food. It is pounded into a semi-fluid mess, after which it is +allowed to stand a few days and ferment; it is then worked about with +the hands until it acquires the proper consistency for eating, when it +is stored in gourds and calabashes. It must be of a certain thickness, +neither too soft nor too firm, something of the consistency of thick +flour-paste, though glutinous, and it is eaten in the following +manner. Two fingers are dipped into the pot containing the _poi_, and +turned rapidly round until a sufficient quantity of the paste adheres +to them; then, by a rapid motion, the lot is wriggled out of the pot, +conveyed into the mouth, and the fingers are sucked clean. Young girls +dip in only one finger at a time, the men two fingers. I was +frequently invited to dip my fingers into the _poi_ and try it, being +told that it was very good; but I had not the courage.[15] + +But to proceed on my walk up the Nuuanu Valley. About two miles from +the town, we came to a very pretty villa on one side of the +road,--with some large native huts, in a shady garden, on the other. +We find that this villa is the country residence of Queen Emma. +Looking in through the gate of the garden opposite, who should I see +but our quondam lady passenger from Sydney, Miss Ribbids, reclining on +a bank in the most luxurious fashion! She had walked up the valley +alone, she informed us, and the natives had been most kind to her, +giving her fruits, and wreaths of flowers for her adornment. + +Proceeding up the valley, we find ourselves on high ground, our road +having been for the most part up-hill. Looking back, a charming view +lies spread before us. The sky is brilliant and unclouded. Below us +lie the town and harbour, the blue sea as smooth as a mirror, +shipping dotting the bay, and a silvery line of water breaking along +the distant reef. We begin to catch the breeze blowing from the upper +part of the valley, and it feels fresh and invigorating after toiling +under the noonday sun. + +As we ascend the road we meet several of the native girls coming down +on horseback. They seem to have quite a passion for riding in the +island, and have often to be prevented racing through the streets of +Honolulu. The horses are of a poor breed; but the women, who sit +astride like the men, seem plucky riders, their long, flowing dresses +making respectable riding-habits. Most of the girls wore garlands of +_ohelo_ and other flowers round their heads, being very fond of +ornament. + +Shortly after meeting the girls, a man passed us, at the usual jog +canter, with a coffin slung on the saddle in front of him, and after +him followed another rider with the lid. We remarked upon the strange +burden, and I asked of the first man, who was going to be buried? "My +wife," he replied; "me pay seventy-five dollars for um coffin." He +grinned, and seemed quite pleased with his coffin, which was really a +handsome one. + +As we ascend, we seem to get quite into the bush. Thick vegetation +spreads up the steep hills on each side of us. I can now understand +how difficult it must be to travel through a tropical forest. The +brushwood grows so close together, and is so intertwined, that it +would appear almost impossible to force one's way through it. The +mountains rise higher and higher as we advance, and are covered with +lovely light-green foliage. The hills seem to have been thrown up +evenly in ridges, each ridge running up the mountain-side having its +separate peak. Here and there a small cataract leaps down the face of +a rock, shining like a silver thread, and disappearing in the +brushwood below until it comes down to swell the mountain-torrent +running by our side close to the road. + +At a turn of the road, we suddenly encountered a number of men coming +down from some cattle ranches in the hills, mounted _a la Mexicaine_, +with lassoes on their saddles and heavy whips in their hands, driving +before them a few miserable cattle. There seemed to be about eighteen +men to a dozen small beasts. I guess that a couple of Australian +stockmen, with their whips, could easily have driven before them the +whole lot--men, horses, and cattle. + +We were now about seven miles from Honolulu, and very near the end of +our up-hill journey. After walking up a steeper ascent than usual, the +scenery becoming even more romantic and picturesque, we pass through a +thicket of hibiscus and other trees, when suddenly, on turning round a +small pile of volcanic rocks, we emerge on an open space, and the +grand precipice or Pali, of the Nuuanu Valley bursts upon us with +startling effect. + +Here, in some tremendous convulsion of Nature, the mountain-ridge +seems to have been suddenly rent and burst through towards its +summit, and we look down over a precipice some five hundred feet deep. +It is possible to wind down the face of the rock by a narrow path; +but, having no mind to make the descent, we rest and admire the +magnificent prospect before and below us. Under the precipice is a +forest, so near to the foot of the rock that one might easily pitch a +stone into it. Over the forest stretches a lovely country, green and +fresh, dotted with hills and woods. The sea, about seven miles off, +bounds the view, with its silver line of breakers on the outer reef. +The long line of white looks beautiful on the calm blue sea, with the +sun shining on it. The country before us did not seem to be much +cultivated. Here and there, below us, a native hut might be discerned +amidst the trees, but no large dwelling or village was in sight. + +The rent in the mountain, through which we have passed, is torn and +rugged. Immense masses of black rock, several hundred feet in height, +and nearly perpendicular, form the two sides of the rift. On one side, +the mountain seems to rise straight up into the air, until it is lost +in a white cloud; on the other, the rock is equally precipitous, but +not quite so high. From this last the range stretches away in a +semicircle, ending along the coast some twenty miles distant. + +A few more words about the natives, whom I have as yet only +incidentally alluded to. Of course, I saw a good deal of them, in one +way or another, during my brief stay at Honolulu. We had scarcely got +alongside the wharf, ere the Kanakas--as they are called--came +aboard, popping their heads in and out of the cabins, some selling +bananas and oranges, others offering coral and curiosities, but most +of them to examine the ship out of mere curiosity. From what I +observed, I should say that the Kanakas are of the same stock as the +Maoris, not so much tattoo-marked, much more peacefully inclined, and +probably more industrious. Some of the men are tall and handsome, +which is more than I can say of the women. The men do not work very +heartily on day wages, but well enough when paid by the piece. Here, +on the wharf, they get a dollar for a day's work, and a +dollar-and-a-half for night-work. They are employed in filling the +coal-bunkers and unloading the ship. + +The Kanakas are capital divers, and work almost as well in the water +as out of it. I saw one of them engaged in repairing the bottom of the +'Moses Taylor,' by which I am to sail for San Francisco. He is paid +three dollars for a general inspection, or five dollars for a day's +work. I saw him go down to nail a piece of copper-sheathing on the +bottom, where it had been damaged in grounding upon a rock, when last +coming out of San Francisco harbour. He took down about thirty copper +nails in his mouth, with the hammer and sheet of copper in his hand, +coming up to breathe after each nail was knocked in. I could hear the +loud knocking as he drove the nails into the ship's side. At the same +time, some Kanaka boys were playing about in the water near at hand, +diving for stones or bits of money. The piece was never allowed to +sink more than a few feet before a boy was down after it and secured +it. They never missed the smallest silver-bit. It seemed to me as if +some of them could swim before they could walk. + +As for the women, although travellers have spread abroad reports of +their beauty, I was unable to see it. While the 'Moses Taylor' lay in +the harbour, the saloon was sometimes full of native girls, who came +down from the country to see the ship and admire themselves in the two +large saloon mirrors, before which they stood laughing and giggling. +Their usual dress consists of a long, loose gown, reaching down to the +ancles, with no fastening round the waist; and their heads and necks +are usually adorned with leaves or flowers of some sort. They seem to +me very like the Maori women, but without the blue tattoo-mark on the +lips; nor are their features so strongly marked, though they had the +same wide faces, black eyes, full nostrils, and large lips. Their +skins are of various hues, from a yellow to a dusky-brown. Their feet +and hands are usually small and neat. + +I am told that the race is degenerating and dying out fast. The +population of the islands is said to be little more than one-tenth of +what it was when Captain Cook visited them; and this falling off is +reported to be mainly due to the unchaste habits of the women. The +missionaries have long been trying to make a salutary impression on +them; but, though the natives profess Christianity in various forms, +it is to be feared that it is a profession, and little more. The King, +also, has tried to make them more moral, by putting in force a sort +of Maine liquor-law; but every ship that enters the harbour is beset +by natives wanting drink, and they adopt various methods of evading +the law. The licence charged by the Government to a retailer of +spirits is a thousand dollars a year; but he must not sell liquor to +any foreigner on a Sunday, nor to any native at any time, under a +penalty of five hundred dollars. This penalty is rigidly exacted; and +if the spirit-dealer is unable to pay the fine, he is put on the +coral-reefs, to work at twenty-five cents a day until he has worked +off the amount. Accordingly, the liquor-trade is followed by very few +persons, and the consumption of drink by the natives is very much +curtailed,--compared, for instance, with what it is among the +drink-consuming natives of New Zealand, who are allowed to swallow the +"fire-water," to the great profit of the publicans and to their own +demoralization, without any restriction whatever. + +I find the Government here also levies a very considerable sum from +the Chinese, for the privilege of selling opium. It is put up annually +to auction, and in some years as much as forty-five thousand dollars +have been paid for the monopoly, though this year it has brought +considerably less in consequence of the dulness of trade. From this +circumstance it will be inferred that there is a considerable Chinese +population in the place. Indeed, some of the finest stores in Honolulu +are kept by Chinamen. I did not at first observe many of these people +about; but afterwards, when exploring, I found whole back-streets +full of Chinamen's huts and houses. + +From the announcements of theatrical and other entertainments I see +about, the people here must be very fond of amusement. Indeed, +Honolulu seems to be one of the great centres of pleasure in the +Pacific. All wandering "stars" come hither. When I was at Auckland, in +New Zealand, I went to the theatre to see a troupe of Japanese +jugglers. I had seen the identical troupe in London, and "All Right" +was amongst them. They were on their way to Honolulu, to star it here +before returning to Japan. Charles Mathews, with whom I made the +voyage from Melbourne to Sydney, is also advertised to appear, "for a +few nights only," at the Royal Hawaiian Theatre.[16] And now here is +The Bandman, my fellow-passenger from Auckland, advertised, in big +placards, as "The World-renowned Shaksperian Player," &c., who is +about to give a series of such and such representations at the same +place. + +Beautiful though the island of Oahu may be, I soon found that I could +not live there. Even in winter it was like living in a hothouse. The +air was steamy with heat, and frightfully relaxing. At intervals my +nose streamed with blood, and I grew sensibly thinner. Then I suffered +terribly from the musquitoes; my ankles were quite swollen with their +bites, and in a day or two more I should have been dead-lame. There +are, besides, other tormentors--small flies, very like the Victorian +sand-flies, that give one a nasty sting. I was very glad, therefore, +after four days' stay at Honolulu, to learn that the 'Moses Taylor' +was ready to sail for San Francisco. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 15: The poi is said to grow so abundantly and with so little +labour in the Sandwich Islands, that it tends to encourage the natural +indolence of the people. A taro pit no bigger than an ordinary +drawing-room will keep a man in food a whole year. Nature is so +prolific that labour is scarcely requisite in these hot climates. Thus +the sun may be a great demoralizer.] + +[Footnote 16: I find in a Californian paper the following amusing +account by Mr. Mathews himself, of his appearance before a Honolulu +audience:-- + +"At Honolulu, one of the loveliest little spots upon earth, I acted +one night 'by command, and in the presence of his Majesty Kamehameha +V., King of the Sandwich Islands' (not 'Hoky Poky Wonky Fong,' as +erroneously reported), and a memorable night it was. On my way to the +quaint little Hawaiian Theatre, situated in a rural lane, in the midst +of a pretty garden, glowing with gaudy tropical flowers, and shaded by +cocoa-trees, bananas, banyans, and tamarinds, I met the playbill of +the evening. A perambulating Kanaka (or native black gentleman), +walking between two boards (called in London, figuratively, 'a +sandwich man,' but here, of course literally so), carried aloft a +large illuminated white lantern, with the announcement in the Kanaka +language to catch the attention of the coloured inhabitants: 'Charles +Mathews; Keaka Keia Po (Theatre open this evening). Ka uku o Ke Komo +ana (reserved seats, dress circle), $2.50; Nohi mua (Parquette), $1; +Noho ho (Kanaka pit), 75c.' I found the theatre (to use the technical +expression) 'crammed to suffocation,' which merely means 'very full,' +though from the state of the thermometer on this occasion, +'suffocation' was not so incorrect a description as usual. A really +elegant-looking audience (tickets 10_s._ each), evening dresses, +uniforms of every cut and every country. 'Chieftesses' and ladies of +every tinge, in dresses of every colour, flowers and jewels in +profusion, satin playbills, fans going, windows and doors all open, an +outside staircase leading straight into the dress circle, without +lobby, check-taker, or money-taker. Kanaka women in the garden below +selling bananas and pea-nuts by the glare of flaring torches on a +sultry tropical moonlight night. The whole thing was like nothing but +a midsummer-night's dream. And was it nothing to see a pit full of +Kanakas, black, brown, and whitey-brown (till lately cannibals), +showing their white teeth, grinning and enjoying 'Patter _v._ Clatter' +as much as a few years ago they would have enjoyed the roasting of a +missionary or the baking of a baby? It was certainly a page in one's +life never to be forgotten."] + + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +HONOLULU TO SAN FRANCISCO. + +DEPARTURE FROM HONOLULU--WRECK OF THE 'SAGINAW'--THE 'MOSES +TAYLOR'--THE ACCOMMODATION--THE COMPANY ON BOARD--BEHAVIOUR OF THE +SHIP--DEATH OF A PASSENGER--FEELINGS ON LANDING IN A NEW +PLACE--APPROACH THE GOLDEN GATE--CLOSE OF THE PACIFIC LOG--FIRST SIGHT +OF AMERICA. + + +The departure of the 'Moses Taylor' was evidently regarded as a great +event at Honolulu. At the hour appointed for our sailing, a great +crowd had assembled on the wharf. All the notabilities of the place +seemed to be there. First and foremost was the King of the Sandwich +Islands himself, Kamehameha V.--a jolly-looking, portly old fellow, +standing about six feet high, and weighing over five-and-twenty +stone--every inch and ounce a king. Then there were the chief +ministers of his court, white, yellow, and dusky. There were also +English, Americans, and Chinese, with a crowd of full-blooded +Kanakas--all very orderly and admiring. And round the outskirts of the +throng were several carriages filled with native ladies. + +Punctually at half-past 4 P.M., we got away from our moorings, with +"three cheers for Honolulu," which were raised by a shipwrecked crew +we had on board. Leaving the pier, we shortly passed through the +opening in the reef which forms the entrance to the harbour, and +steamed steadily eastward in the direction of San Francisco. + +I must explain how it was that the "three cheers for Honolulu" were +raised. The 'Saginaw' was an American war-ship that had been sent with +a contract party to Midway Island in the North Pacific--some fifteen +hundred miles west-north-west of the Sandwich Islands--to blast the +coral-reef there, in order to provide a harbourage for the line of +large steamers running between San Francisco and China. The money +voted for the purpose by the Government having been spent, the +'Saginaw' was on its return voyage from the island, when the captain +determined to call at Ocean Island to see if there were any +shipwrecked crews there; but in a fog, the ship ran upon a coral-reef, +and was itself wrecked. The men, to the number of ninety-three, +contrived to reach the island, where they remained sixty-nine days, +during which they lived mostly on seal meat and the few stores they +had been able to save from their ship. The island itself is entirely +barren, containing only a few bushes and a sort of dry grass, with +millions of rats--supposed to have bred from rats landed from +shipwrecked vessels. Strict military discipline was preserved by the +officers, and the men as a body behaved remarkably well. + +At length, no vessel appearing in sight, four of the sailors +volunteered to row in an open boat to the Sandwich Islands--more than +a thousand miles distant--for the purpose of reporting the wreck of +the ship, and sending relief to those on the island. The boat +departed, reached the reef which surrounds Kauai, an island to the +north-west of Oahu, and was there wrecked, only one of the men +succeeding in reaching the shore. So soon as the intelligence of the +wreck of the 'Saginaw' reached Honolulu, the Government immediately +dispatched a steamer to take the men off the desert island; and hence +the enthusiastic cheers for Honolulu, raised by the rescued officers +and men of the American ship, who are now all on board the 'Moses +Taylor,' on their way back to San Francisco. + +I must now describe my new ship. She is called the 'Rolling Moses;' +but with what justice I am as yet unable to say. She certainly looks +singularly top-hampered,--altogether unlike any British ship that I +have ever seen. She measures twice as much in the beam as the 'City of +Melbourne;' is about 2000 tons register; is flat-bottomed, and draws +about fourteen feet of water when laden. She looks like a great big +house afloat, or rather a row of houses more than thirty feet high. +The decks seemed piled one a-top of the other, quite promiscuously. +First there is the dining-saloon, with cabins all round it; above is +the drawing-room, with more cabins; then above that is the hurricane +deck, with numerous deck-houses for the captain and officers; and +then, towering above all, there is the large beam-engine right between +the paddle-boxes. Altogether it looks a very unwieldy affair, and I +would certainly much rather trust myself to such a ship as the 'City +of Melbourne.' It strikes me that in a heavy sea, 'Moses's' hull would +run some risk of parting company with the immense structure above. + +The cabin accommodation is, however, greatly superior to that of my +late ship,--there is so much more room, and the whole arrangements for +the comfort of the passengers are all that could be desired. The +Americans certainly do seem to understand comfort in travelling. The +stewards and people about are civil and obliging, and don't seem to be +always looking for a "tip," as is so customary on board an English +boat. This ship also is cleaner than the one I have left--there are +none of those hideous smells that so disgusted me on board 'The City.' +The meals are better, and there is much greater variety--lots of +different little dishes--of meat, stews, mashed potatoes, squashes, +hominy or corn-cake, and such like. So far as the living goes, +therefore, I think I shall get on very well on board the 'Moses +Taylor.' + +The weather is wet and what sailors call "dirty," and it grows +sensibly colder. As there is no pleasure in remaining on deck, I keep +for the most part below. I like my company very much--mostly +consisting of the shipwrecked men of the 'Saginaw.' They are nice, +lively fellows; they encourage me to talk, and we have many a hearty +laugh together. Some of them give me no end of yarns about the late +war, in which they were engaged; and they tell me (whether true or +not, I have no means of knowing), that the captain of the ship we are +in was first lieutenant of the "pirate" ship 'Florida.' I have not +found amongst my companions as yet any of that self-assertion or pride +of nationality said to distinguish the Yankee; nor have I heard a word +from them of hostility to John Bull. Indeed, for the purpose of +drawing them out, I began bragging a little about England, but they +let me have my own way without contradiction. They say nothing about +politics, or, if they allude to the subject, express very moderate +opinions. Altogether, I get on with them; and like them very much. + +The 'Moses Taylor' proves a steadier sea-boat than I expected from her +built-up appearance. She certainly gives many a long steady roll; but +there is little pitching or tossing. When the sea strikes her, she +quivers all over in a rather uncomfortable way. She is rather an old +ship; she formerly ran between Vancouver and San Francisco, and is +certainly the worse for wear. The huge engine-shafts shake the beams +which support them; the pieces of timber tremble under the heavy +strokes of the engine, and considerable apertures open from time to +time in the deck as she heaves to and fro. The weather, however, is +not stormy; and the ship will doubtless carry us safely to the end of +our voyage,--going steadily, as she does, at the rate of about eight +knots an hour. And as the distance between Honolulu and the American +coast is about 2100 miles, we shall probably make the voyage in about +ten days. + +On the eighth day after leaving Honolulu, an incident occurred which +made a startling impression on me. While we were laughing and talking +in the cabin--kept down there by the rain--we were told that a poor +man, who had been ailing since we left port, had breathed his last. It +seemed that he had some affection of the gullet which prevented his +swallowing food. The surgeon on board did not possess the necessary +instrument to enable him to introduce food into his stomach, so that +he literally died of starvation. He occupied the berth exactly +opposite mine, and though I knew he was ill, I had no idea that his +end was so near. He himself; however, had been aware of it, and +anxiously wished that he might survive until he reached San Francisco, +where his wife was to meet him at the landing. But it was not to be; +and his sudden decease gave us all a great shock. + +We had our breakfast and dinner that day whilst the body was lying in +the cabin. We heard the carpenter busy on the main deck knocking +together a coffin for its reception. Every time he knocked a nail in, +I thought of the poor dead fellow who lay beside us. I began to +speculate as to the various feelings with which passengers land in a +new place. Some are mere passing visitors like myself, bent on seeing +novel sights; some are going thither, full of hope, to make a new +settlement in life; some are returning home, expecting old friends +waiting on the pier-head to meet and welcome them. But there are sad +meetings, too; and here there will be an anxious wife waiting at the +landing-place, only to receive the dead body of her husband. + +But a truce to moralizing; for we are approaching the Golden Gate. I +must now pack up my things, and finish my log. I have stuck to it at +all hours and in all weathers; jotted down little bits from time to +time in the intervals of sea-sickness, toothache, and tic douloureux; +written under a burning tropical sun, and amidst the drizzle and +down-pour of the North Pacific; but I have found pleasure in keeping +it up, because I know that it will be read with pleasure by those for +whom it is written, and it will serve to show that amidst all my +wanderings, I have never forgotten the Old Folks at Home. + +At half-past four on the morning of the tenth day from our leaving +Honolulu, we sighted the lighthouse at the Golden Gate, which forms +the entrance to the spacious bay or harbour of San Francisco. +Suddenly, there is a great scampering about of the passengers, a +general packing up of baggage; a brushing of boots, hats, and clothes; +and a dressing up in shore-going "togs." The steward comes round to +look after his perquisites, and every one is in a bustle about +something or other. + +I took a last rest in my bunk--for it was still early morning--until I +was told that we were close along-shore; and then I jumped up, went on +deck, and saw America for the first time. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +SAN FRANCISCO TO SACRAMENTO. + +LANDING AT SAN FRANCISCO--THE GOLDEN CITY--THE STREETS--THE BUSINESS +QUARTER--THE CHINESE QUARTER--THE TOUTERS--LEAVE SAN FRANCISCO--THE +FERRY-BOAT TO OAKLAND--THE BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO--LANDING ON THE +EASTERN SHORE--AMERICAN RAILWAY CARRIAGES--THE PULLMAN'S +CARS--SLEEPING BERTHS--UNSAVOURY CHINAMEN--THE COUNTRY--CITY OF +SACRAMENTO. + + +We have passed in from the Pacific through the Golden Gate, swung +round towards the south, and then, along the eastern margin of the +peninsula which runs up to form the bay, the City of San Francisco +lies before me! A great mass of houses and warehouses, fronted by a +long line of wharves, extends along the water's edge. Masses of +houses, tipped with occasional towers and spires, rise up on the high +ground behind, crowning the summits of Telegraph, Russian, and Clay +Street Hills. + +But we have little time to take note of the external features of the +city, for we are already alongside the pier. Long before the gangways +can be run out and laid between the ship and the wharf, there is a +rush of hotel runners on board, calling out the names of their +respective hotels and distributing their cards. There is a tremendous +hurry-scurry. The touters make dashes at the baggage and carry it off, +sometimes in different directions, each hoping to secure a customer +for his hotel. Thus, in a very few minutes, the ship was cleared; all +the passengers were bowling along towards their several destinations; +and in a few minutes I found myself safely deposited in "The +Brooklyn," a fine large hotel in Bush Street, situated in the business +part of the town, with dwellings interspersed amongst the business +houses. + +It is not necessary to describe San Francisco. Travellers have done +that over and over again. Indeed, there is not so much about it that +is of any great interest except to business men. One part of the city +is very like another. I was told that some of the finest buildings +were of the Italian order; but I should say that by far the greater +number were of the Ramshackle order. Although the first house in the +place was only built in 1835, the streets nearest to the wharves look +already old and worn out. They are for the most part of wood, and +their paint is covered with dirt. But though prematurely old, they are +by no means picturesque. Of course, in so large a place, with a +population of 150,000, and already so rich and prosperous, though so +young, there are many fine buildings and some fine streets. The hotels +carry away the palm as yet,--the Grand Hotel at the corner of Market +and New Montgomery Streets being the finest. There are also churches, +theatres, hospitals, markets, and all the other appurtenances of a +great city. + +I had not for a long time seen such a bustle of traffic as presented +itself in the streets of San Francisco. The whole place seemed to be +alive. Foot passengers jostled each other; drays and waggons were +rolling about; business men were clustered together in some streets, +apparently "on change;" with all the accompaniments of noise, and +bustle, and turmoil of a city full of life and traffic. The money +brokers' shops are very numerous in the two finest streets--Montgomery +and California Streets. Nearly every other shop there belongs to a +money broker or money changer. Strange to see the piles of glistening +gold in the windows--ten to twenty dollar pieces, and heaps of +greenbacks. + +John Chinaman is here, I see, in great force. There are said to be as +many as 30,000 in the city and neighbourhood. I wonder these people do +not breed a plague. I went through their quarter one evening, and was +surprised and disgusted with what I saw. Chinese men and women of the +lowest class were swarming in their narrow alleys. Looking down into +small cellars, I saw from ten to fifteen men and women living in +places which two white men would not sleep in. The adjoining streets +smelt most abominably. The street I went through must be one of the +worst; and I was afterwards told that it was "dangerous" to pass +through it. I observed a large wooden screen at each end of it, as if +for the purpose of shutting it off from the white people's quarter. + +One of the nuisances we had to encounter in the streets was that of +railway touters. No sooner did we emerge from the hotel door, than +men lying in wait pounced upon us, offering tickets by this route, +that route, and the other route to New York. I must have had a very +"new chum" sort of look, for I was accosted no less than three times +one evening by different touting gentlemen. One wished to know if I +had come from Sydney, expressing his admiration of Australia +generally. Another asked if I was "going East," offering to sell me a +through ticket at a reduced price. The third also introduced the +Sydney topic, telling me, by way of inducement to buy a ticket of him, +that he had "worked there." I shook them all off, knowing them to be +dangerous customers. I heard some strange stories of young fellows +making friends with such strangers, and having drinks with them. The +drink is drugged, and the Sydney swell, on his way to New York, finds +himself next morning in the streets, minus purse, watch, and +everything of value about him. + +There is only one railway route as yet across the Rocky Mountains, by +the Western, Central, and Union Pacific, as far as Omaha; but from +that point there are various lines to New York, and it was to secure +passengers by these respective routes that the touters were so busily +at work. All the hotels, bars, and stores, are full of their +advertisements:--"The Shortest Route to the East"--"Pullman's Palace +Cars Run on this Line"--"The Route of all Nations"--"The Grand Route, +_via_ Niagara," such are a few specimens of these urgent +announcements. I decided to select the route _via_ Chicago, Detroit, +Niagara, and down the Hudson river to New York; and made my +arrangements accordingly. + +[Illustration: (Map of Atlantic and Pacific Railways) _Reduced from a +Map in Mr. Rae's_] + +I left San Francisco on the morning of the 8th of February. The +weather was cold compared with that of the Sandwich Islands; yet there +were few signs of winter. There was no snow on the ground; and at +midday it was agreeable and comparatively mild. I knew, however, that +as soon as we left the shores of the Pacific, and ascended the western +slopes of the Rocky Mountains, if not before, we should encounter +thorough winter weather, and I prepared myself with coats and wrappers +as a defence from the cold. + +My fellow-voyager from New Zealand, the German-American of whom I have +spoken above, and who seemed to take quite a liking for me, +accompanied me down to the wharf, where we parted with mutual regret. +It was necessary for me to cross the bay by a ferry-boat to Oakland, +where the train is made up and starts for Sacramento. There was a +considerable crowd round the baggage-office, where I gave up my +trunks, and obtained, in exchange, two small brass checks which will +enable me to reclaim them on the arrival of the train at Omaha. I +proceeded down the pier and on to the ferry-boat. Indeed, I was on it +before I was aware. It looked so like a part of the wharf, and was so +surrounded by piles and wooden erections, that I did not know I was on +its deck, and was inquiring about its arrival to take us off, when I +found the huge boat gradually moving away from the pier! + +[Illustration: _'Westward by Rail.' Longmans._ 1871.] + +It was a regular American ferry-boat, of the same build fore and aft, +capable of going alike backwards or forwards, and with a long bridge +at each end, ready to be let down at the piers on either side of the +bay, so as to enable carts or carriages to be driven directly on to +the main deck, which was just like a large covered yard, standing +level with the wharf. Over this was an upper deck with a nice saloon, +where I observed notices stuck up of "No spitting allowed;" showing +that there was greater consideration for the ladies here than there +was on board the 'Moses Taylor,' where spittle and quids were +constantly shooting about the decks, with very little regard for +passers-by, whether ladies or gentlemen. + +Steaming away from the pier, we obtained a splendid view of the city +behind us. The wharves along its front were crowded with shipping of +all sorts; amongst which we could observe the huge American +three-decker river steamers, Clyde-built clippers, brigs, schooners, +and a multitude of smaller craft. Down the bay we see the green hills +rising in the distance, fading away in the grey of the morning. Close +on our left is a pretty island, about half-way across the bay, in the +centre of which is a green hill,--what seemed to Australian eyes good +pasture ground; and I could discern what I took to be a station or +farmhouse. + +In about an hour we found ourselves nearing the land on the eastern +shore of the bay, where we observe the railway comes out to meet us. +The water on this side is so shoal for a distance from the shore that +no ships of any considerable burden can float in it, so that the +railway is carried out on piles into the deep water for a distance of +nearly a mile. Here we land, and get into the train waiting alongside; +then the engine begins to snort, and we are away. As we move off from +the waters of San Francisco Bay, I feel I have made another long +stride on the road towards England. + +We continue for some time rolling along the rather shaky timber pier +on which the rails are laid. At last we reach the dry land, and speed +through Oakland--a pretty town--rattling through the streets just like +an omnibus or tramway car, ringing a bell to warn people of the +approach of the cars. We stop at nearly every station, and the local +traffic seems large. Farm land and nice rolling country stretches away +on either side of the track. + +From looking out of the carriage windows, I begin to take note of the +carriage itself--a real American railway carriage. It is a long car +with a passage down the middle. On each side of this passage are seats +for two persons, facing the engine; but the backs being reversible, a +party of four can sit as in an English carriage, face to face. At each +end of the carriage is a stove, and a filter of iced water. The door +at each end leads out on to a platform, enabling the conductor to walk +through the train from one end to the other. + +This arrangement for the conductor, by the way, is rather a nuisance. +He comes round six or seven times during the twenty-four hours, often +during the night, perhaps at a time when you are trying to snatch a +few minutes' nap, and you find your shoulder tapped, and a bull's-eye +turned full upon you, with a demand for "tickets." This, however, is +to be avoided by affixing a little card in your hat, which the +conductor gives you, so that by inspection he knows at once whether +his passenger is legitimate or not. + +I did not travel by one of "Pullman's Silver Palace Drawing-room +Cars," though I examined them, and admired their many comforts. By +day they afford roomy accommodation, with ample space for walking +about, or for playing at cards or chess on the tables provided for the +purpose. At night a double row of comfortable-looking berths are made +up, a curtain being drawn along the front to render them as private as +may be, and leaving only a narrow passage along the centre of the car. +At the end of the car are conveniences for washing, iced water, and +the never-failing stove. + +The use of the sleeping-cars costs about three or four dollars extra +per night. I avoided this expense, and contrived a very good +substitute in my second-class car. Fortunately we were not very full +of passengers; and by making use of four seats, or two benches, +turning one of the seat-backs round, and placing the seat-bottoms +lengthwise, I arranged a tolerably good sleeping-place for the night. +But had the carriage been full, and the occupants been under the +necessity of sitting up during the six days the journey lasted, I +should imagine that it must have become almost intolerable by the time +we reached Omaha. + +There were some rather unpleasant fellow-travellers in my +compartment--several unsavoury Chinamen, smoking very bad tobacco; and +other smoking gentlemen, who make the second-class compartments their +rendezvous. But for the thorough draught we obtained from time to time +on the passage of the conductor, the atmosphere would be, as indeed it +often was, of a very disagreeable character. + +About forty-two miles from San Francisco, I find we are already in +amongst the hills of a range, and winding in and out through pretty +valleys, where all available land is used for farming purposes. We +round some curves that look almost impossible, and I begin to feel the +oscillation of the carriages, by no means unlike the rolling of a ship +at sea. I often wished that it had been summer instead of winter, that +I might better have enjoyed the beauty of the scenery as we sped +along. As it was, I could see that the country must be very fine under +a summer sky. We have met with no snow at present, being still on the +sunny slopes of the Pacific; nor have we as yet mounted up to any very +high elevation. + +We were not long in passing through the range of hills of which I have +spoken, and then we emerged upon the plains, which continued until we +reached Sacramento, the capital of the State. The only town of any +importance that we have yet passed was Stockton, a place about midway +between San Francisco and Sacramento, where we now are. Down by the +riverside I see some large lumber-yards, indicative of a considerable +timber trade. The wharves were dirty, as wharves generally are; but +they were busy with traffic. The town seemed well laid out, in broad +streets; the houses being built widely apart, each with its garden +about it; while long lines of trees run along most of the streets. +Prominent amongst the buildings is the large new Senate House or +Capitol, a really grand feature of the city. The place having been +originally built of wood, it has been liable to conflagrations, which +have more than once nearly destroyed it. Floods have also swept over +the valley, and carried away large portions of the town; but having +been rebuilt on piles ten feet above the original level, it is now +believed to be secure against injury from this cause. + +Sacramento is the terminus of the Western Pacific Railway, from which +the Central Pacific extends east towards the Rocky Mountains. The +railway workshops of the Company are located here, and occupy a large +extent of ground. They are said to be very complete and commodious. + +Many of the passengers by the train, whom we had brought on from San +Francisco, or picked up along the road, descended here; and I was very +glad to observe that amongst them were the Chinamen, who relieved us +from their further most disagreeable odour. After a short stoppage, +and rearrangement of the train, we were off again, toiling up the +slopes of the Sierra Nevada--the Switzerland of California. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +ACROSS THE SIERRA NEVADA. + +RAPID ASCENT--THE TRESTLE-BRIDGES--MOUNTAIN +PROSPECTS--"PLACERS"--SUNSET--CAPE HORN--ALTA--THE SIERRAS BY +NIGHT--CONTRAST OF TEMPERATURES--THE SNOW-SHEDS--THE +SUMMIT--RENO--BREAKFAST AT HUMBOLDT--THE SAGE-BRUSH--BATTLE +MOUNT--SHOSHONIE INDIANS--TEN MILE CANYON--ELKO STATION--GREAT AMERICAN +DESERT--ARRIVAL AT OGDEN. + + +We had now begun the ascent of the difficult mountain country that +separates the Eastern from the Western States of the Union, and +through which the Central Pacific Railway has been recently +constructed and completed--one of the greatest railway works of our +time. As we advance, the scenery changes rapidly. Instead of the flat +and comparatively monotonous country we have for some time been +passing through, we now cross deep gullies, climb up steep ascents, +and traverse lovely valleys. Sometimes we seem to be enclosed in +mountains with an impenetrable barrier before us. But rushing into a +tunnel, we shortly emerge on the other side, to find ourselves +steaming along the edge of a precipice. + +What struck me very much was the apparent slimness of the +trestle-bridges over which we were carried across the gullies, in the +bottom of which mountain torrents were dashing, some fifty or a +hundred feet below us. My first experience of such a crossing was +quite startling. I was standing on the platform of the last car, +looking back at the fast vanishing scene--a winding valley shut in by +pine-clad mountains which we had for some time been ascending,--when, +glancing down on the track, instead of solid earth, I saw the ground, +through the open timbers of the trestle-bridge, at least sixty feet +below me! The timber road was only the width of the single iron track; +so that any one looking out of the side carriage-windows would see +sixty feet down into space. The beams on which the trestle-bridge is +supported, are, in some cases, rested on stone; but oftener they are +not. It is not easy to describe the sensation first felt on rattling +over one of these trembling viaducts, with a lovely view down some +mountain gorge, and then, perhaps, suddenly plunging into a dark +cutting on the other side of the trestle. But use is everything; and +before long I got quite accustomed to the sensation of looking down +through the open woodwork of the line on to broken ground and mountain +torrents rushing a hundred feet or more below me. + +We left Sacramento at 2 P.M., and evening was coming on as we got into +the mountains. Still, long before sunset we saw many traces of large +"placers," where whole sides of the hills had been dug out and washed +away in the search for gold; the water being brought over the +hill-tops by various ingenious methods. Sometimes, too, we came upon +signs of active mining, in the water-courses led across valleys at +levels above us, consisting of wooden troughs supported on trestles +similar to those we are so frequently crossing. In one place I saw a +party of men busily at work along the mountain side, preparatory to +letting the water in upon the auriferous ground they were exploring. + +I stood for more than two hours on the platform at the rear of the +train, never tired of watching the wonderful scenery that continually +receded from my gaze,--sometimes the track suddenly disappearing as we +rounded a curve; and then looking ahead, I would find that an entirely +new prospect was opening into view. + +Never shall I forget the lovely scene that evening, when the golden +sun was setting far away on the Pacific coast. The great red orb sank +slowly behind a low hill at the end of the valley which stretched away +on our right far beneath us. The pine-trees shone red in the departing +sunlight for a short time; then the warm, dusky glimmer gradually +faded away on the horizon, and all was over. The scene now looked more +dreary, the mountains more rugged, and everything more desolate than +before. + +Up we rushed, still ascending the mountain slopes, winding in and +out--higher and higher--the mountains becoming more rugged and wild, +and the country more broken and barren-looking. Crossing slowly +another trestle-bridge seventy-five feet high, at the upper part of a +valley, we rounded a sharp curve, and found ourselves on a lofty +mountain-side along which the road is cut, with a deep glen lying 2500 +feet below us wrapped in the shades of evening. It seems to be quite +night down there, and the trees are so shrouded in gloom that I can +scarcely discern them in the bottom of that awful chasm. I can only +clearly see defined against the sky above me, the rugged masses of +overhanging rock, black-looking and terrible. + +I find, on inquiry, that this part of the road is called "Cape Horn," +The bluffs at this point are so precipitous, that when the railroad +was made, the workmen had to be lowered down the face of the rock by +ropes and held on by men above, until they were enabled to blast for +themselves a foot-hold on the side of the precipice. We have now +ascended to a height of nearly 3200 feet above the level of the sea; +and, as may be inferred, the night air grows sharp and cold. As little +more can be seen for the present, I am under the necessity of taking +shelter in the car. + +At half-past six we stopped for tea at Alta, 207 miles from San +Francisco, at an elevation of 3600 feet above the sea. Here I had a +good meal for a dollar--the first since leaving 'Frisco. Had I known +of the short stoppages and the distant refreshing places along the +route, I would certainly have provided myself with a well-stored +luncheon-basket before setting out; but it is now too late. + +After a stoppage of twenty minutes, the big bell tolled, and we seated +ourselves in the cars again; and away we went as before, still toiling +up-hill. We are really climbing now. I can hear it by the strong +snorts of the engine, and see it by the steepness of the track. I long +to be able to see around me, for we are passing some of the grandest +scenery of the line. The stars are now shining brightly over head, and +give light enough to show the patches of snow lying along the +mountain-sides as we proceed. The snow becomes more continuous as we +mount the ascent, until only the black rocks and pine-trees stand out +in relief against their white background. + +I was contrasting the sharp cold of this mountain region with the +bright summer weather I had left behind me in Australia only a few +weeks ago, and the much more stifling heat of Honolulu only some ten +days since, when the engine gave one of its loud whistles, like the +blast of a fog-horn, and we plunged into darkness. Looking through the +car window, I observed that we were passing through a wooden +framework--in fact a snow-shed, the roof sloping from the +mountain-side, to carry safely over the track the snow and rocky +_debris_ which shoot down from above. I find there are miles upon +miles of these snow-sheds along our route. At the Summit we pass +through the longest, which is 1700 feet in length. + +We reached the Summit at ten minutes to ten, having ascended 3400 feet +in a distance of only thirty-six miles. We are now over 7000 feet +above the level of the sea, travelling through a lofty mountain +region. In the morning, I was on the warm shores of the Pacific; and +now at night I am amidst the snows of the Sierras. After passing the +Summit, we had some very tortuous travelling; going very fast during +an hour, but winding in and out, as we did, following the contour of +the hills, I found that we had only gained seven geographical miles in +an hour. We then reached the "City" of Truckee, principally supported +by lumbering. It is the last place in California, and we shall very +soon be across the State boundary into the territory of Nevada. + +After passing this station, I curled up on my bench, wrapped myself in +my rugs, and had a snatch of sleep. I was wakened up by the stoppage +of the train at the Reno station, when I shook myself up, and went out +to have a look round me. As I alighted from the train, I had almost +come to the ground through the slipperiness of the platform, which was +coated with ice. It was a sharp frost, and the ground was covered with +snow. At the end of the platform, the snow was piled up in a drift +about twenty feet high on the top of a shed outside the station. I +find there are two kinds of snow-sheds,--one sort used on the plains, +with pointed roofs, from which the snow slides down on either side, +thereby preventing the blocking of the line; the other, used along the +mountain-sides, sloping over the track, so as to carry the snow-shoots +clear over it down into the valley below. + +I soon turned in again, wrapped myself up, and slept soundly for some +hours. When I awoke, it was broad daylight; the sun was shining in at +the car windows; and on looking out, I saw that we were crossing a +broad plain, with mountains on either side of us. The conductor, +coming through the car, informs us that we shall soon be at Humboldt, +where there will be twenty minutes' stoppage for breakfast. I find +that we are now 422 miles on our way, and that during the night we +have crossed the great sage-covered Nevada Desert, on which so many +travellers left their bones to bleach in the days of the overland +journey to California, but which is now so rapidly and safely +traversed by means of this railway. The train draws up at Humboldt at +seven in the morning; and on descending, I find a large, +well-appointed refreshment room, with the tables ready laid; and a +tempting array of hot tea and coffee, bacon, steaks, eggs, and other +eatables. "I guess" I had my full dollar's worth out of that Humboldt +establishment--a "regular square meal," to quote the language of the +conductor. + +We mount again, and are off across the high plains. The sage-brush is +the only vegetation to be seen, interspersed here and there with large +beds of alkali, on which not even sage-brush will grow. The sage +country extends from Wadsworth to Battle Mount Station, a distance of +about two hundred miles. Only occasionally, by the river-sides, near +the station, small patches of cultivated land are to be seen; but, +generally speaking, the country is barren, and will ever remain so. We +are still nearly 5000 feet above the level of the sea. There is no +longer any snow on the ground alongside us, but the mountains within +sight are all covered. Though the day is bright and sunshiny, and the +inside of the car warm, with the stove always full of blazing wood or +coke, the air outside is cold, sharp, and nipping. + +At Battle Mount--so called because of a severe engagement which +occurred here some years since between the Indians and the white +settlers--the plains begin to narrow, and the mountains to close in +again upon the track. Here I saw for the first time a number of +Shoshonie Indians--the original natives of the country--their faces +painted red, and their coarse black hair hanging down over their +shoulders. Their squaws, who carried their papooses in shawls slung +over their backs, came alongside the train to beg money from the +passengers. The Indian men seemed to be of a very low type--not for a +moment to be compared with the splendid Maoris of New Zealand. The +only fine tribe of Indians left, are said to be the Sioux; and these +are fast dying out. In the struggle of races for life, savages nowhere +seem to have the slightest chance when they come in contact with what +are called "civilized" men. If they are not destroyed by our diseases +or our drink, they are by our weapons. + +We are now running along the banks of the sluggish Humboldt river, up +to almost its source in the mountains near the head of the Great Salt +Lake. We cross the winding river from time to time on trestle-bridges; +and soon we are in amongst the mountains again, penetrating a gorge, +where the track is overhung by lofty bluffs; and climbing up the +heights, we shortly leave the river, foaming in its bed, far beneath +us. Steeper and higher rise the sides of the gorge, until suddenly +when we round a curve in the canyon, I see the Devil's Peak, a large +jagged mass of dark-brown rock, which, rising perpendicularly, breaks +up into many points, the highest towering majestically above us to a +height of 1400 feet above the level of the track. This is what is +called the "Ten Mile Canon;" and the bold scenery continues until we +emerge from the top of the gorge. At last we are in the open sunlight +again, and shortly after we draw up at the Elko station. + +We are now evidently drawing near a better peopled district than that +we have lately passed through. Two heavy stage coaches are drawn up +alongside the track, to take passengers to Hamilton and Treasure City +in the White Pine silver-mining district, about 126 miles distant. A +long team of mules stand laden with goods, destined for the diggers of +the same district. Elko is "not much of a place," though I should not +wonder if it is called a "City" here. It mostly consists of what in +Victoria would be called shanties--huts built of wood and canvas--some +of the larger of them being labelled "Saloon," "Eating-house," +"Drug-store," "Paint-shop," and such like. If one might judge by the +number of people thronging the drinking-houses, the place may be +pronounced prosperous. + +Our course now lies through valleys, which look more fertile, and are +certainly much more pleasant to pass along than those dreary Nevada +plains. The sun goes down on my second day in the train; as we are +traversing a fine valley with rolling hills on either side. The ground +again becomes thickly covered with snow, and I find we are again +ascending a steepish grade, rising a thousand feet in a distance of +about ninety miles, where we again reach a total altitude of 6180 feet +above the sea. + +At six next morning, I found we had reached Ogden in the territory of +Utah. During the night we had passed "The Great American Desert," +extending over an area of sixty square miles--an utterly blasted +place--so that I missed nothing by passing over it wrapped in sleep +and rugs. The country about Ogden is well-cultivated and pleasant +looking. Ogden itself is a busy place, being the terminus of the +Central Pacific Railroad, and the junction for trains running down to +Salt Lake City. From this point the Union Pacific commences, and runs +eastward as far as Omaha. + + + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. + +START BY TRAIN FOR OMAHA--MY FELLOW-PASSENGERS--PASSAGE THROUGH THE +DEVIL'S GATE--WEBER CANYON--FANTASTIC ROCKS--"THOUSAND MILE TREE"--ECHO +CANYON--MORE TRESTLE-BRIDGES--SUNSET AMIDST THE BLUFFS--A WINTRY NIGHT +BY RAIL--SNOW-FENCES AND SNOW-SHEDS--LARAMIE CITY--RED BUTTES--THE +SUMMIT AT SHERMAN--CHEYENNE CITY--THE WESTERN PRAIRIE IN +WINTER--PRAIRIE DOG CITY--THE VALLEY OF THE PLATTE--GRAND +ISLAND--CROSS THE NORTH FORK OF THE PLATTE--ARRIVAL IN OMAHA. + + +I decided not to break the journey by visiting Utah--about which so +much has already been written--but to go straight on to Omaha; and I +accordingly took my place in the train about to start eastward. Here I +encountered quite a new phase of American railroad society. One of my +fellow-passengers was a quack doctor, who contemplated depositing +himself in the first populous place he came to on the track-side, for +the purpose of picking up some "'tarnal red cents." A colonel and a +corporal in the American army were on their way home from some post in +the Far West, where they had been to keep the Indians in order. There +were several young commercial travellers, some lucky men returning +from the silver-mines in Idaho, a steward of one of the Pacific mail +steamers returning to England, and an iron-moulder with his wife and +child on their way to Chicago. + +The train soon started, and for some miles we passed through a +well-cultivated country, divided into fields and orchards, looking +pretty even under the thick snow, and reminding me of the vales of +Kent. But we very soon left the cultivated land behind us, and were +again in amongst the mountain gorges. I got out on to the platform to +look around me, and, though the piercing cold rather chilled my +pleasure, I could not help enjoying the wonderful scenery that we +passed through during the next three hours. We are now entering the +Wahsatch Mountains by the grand chasm called the Devil's Gate. We +cross a trestle-bridge fifty feet above the torrent which boils +beneath; and through the black, frowning rocks that guard the pass, I +catch the last glimpse of the open sunlit plain below. + +We are now within the wild Weber Canon, and the scene is changing +every moment. On the right, we pass a most wonderful sight, the +Devil's slide. Two ridges of grey rock stand some ten feet out from +the snow and brushwood; and they run parallel to each other for about +150 feet, right away up the mountain side. For a distance of +thirty-five miles we run along the dark, deep cleft, the rocks +assuming all sorts of fantastic shapes; and the river Weber running +almost immediately beneath us, fretting and raging against the +obstacles in its course. Sometimes the valley widens out a little, but +again to force us against a cliff, where the road has been hewn out +of the solid bluff. In the canyon we pass a pine-tree standing close to +the track, with a large board hung upon it bearing the words, "1000 +miles from Omaha." It is hence named the "Thousand Mile Tree." We have +all that long way before us to travel on this Union Pacific Railway. + +At last we emerge from Weber Canon, and pull up at Echo City, a small +place, chiefly inhabited by railway employes. We start again, and are +soon plunged amidst red, rocky bluffs, more fantastic than any we have +yet passed. We pass the Mormon fortifications at a place where a +precipitous rock overhangs the narrowing canyon. Here, on the top of +the rock, a thousand feet above us, are piled huge stones, placed +close to the brink of the precipice: once ready to be hurled down upon +the foes of Mormonism--the army sent out against them in 1857. The +stones were never used, and are to be seen there yet. The rocks in the +canyon are of a different colour from those we passed an hour ago. The +shapes that they take are wonderful. Now I could fancy that I saw a +beautiful cathedral, with spires and windows; then a castle, +battlements and bastions, all complete; and more than one amphitheatre +fit for a Caesar to have held his sports in. What could be more +striking than these great ragged masses of red rock, thrown one upon +another, and mounting up so high above us? Such fantastical and +curious shapes the weather-worn stone had taken! Pillars, columns, +domes, arches, followed one another in quick succession. Bounding a +corner, a huge circle of rocks comes into sight, rising story upon +story. There, perched upon the top of the rising ground, is a natural +castle, complete with gateway and windows. Indeed, the hour passed +quickly, in spite of the cold, and I felt myself to have been in +fairyland for the time. The whole seemed to be some wild dream. But +dream it could not be. There was the magnificence of the solid +reality--pile upon pile of the solid rock frowning down upon me; great +boulders thrown together by some giant force; perpendicular heights, +time-worn and battered by the elements. All combined to produce in me +a feeling of the utmost wonder and astonishment. + +Emerging from Echo Canon and the Castle Rocks, we enter a milder +valley, where we crawl over a trestle-bridge 450 feet long and 75 feet +high. Shortly after passing Wahsatch Station, we cross the Aspen +Summit and reach an opener country. Since we left Ogden, we have, in a +distance of ninety-three miles, climbed an ascent of 2500 feet, and +are now in a region of frost and snow. After another hour's +travelling, the character of the scenery again changes, and it becomes +more rugged and broken. The line crosses the Bear River on another +trestle-bridge 600 feet long; and following the valley, we then strike +across the higher ground to the head of Ham's Fork, down which we +descend, following the valley as far as Bryan or Black's Fork, 171 +miles from Ogden. + +As the day is drawing to a close, I take a last look upon the scene +outside before turning in for the night. The sun is setting in the +west, illuminating with its last rays the red sandstone bluffs; the +light contrasting with the deep-blue sky overhead, and presenting a +most novel and beautiful effect. We are now traversing a rolling +desert, sometimes whirling round a bluff in our rapid descent, or +crossing a dry water-course on trestles, the features of the scenery +every moment changing. Then I would catch a glimpse of the broken, +rolling prairies in the distance, covered with snow; and anon we were +rounding another precipitous bluff. The red of the sunlight grows dull +against the blue sky, until night gradually wraps the scene in her +mantle of grey. Then the moon comes out with her silvery light, and +reveals new features of wondrous wildness and beauty. I stood for +hours leaning on the rail of the car, gazing at the fascinating +vision, and was only reminded by the growing coldness of the night +that it was time to re-enter the car and prepare for my night's rest. + +After warming myself by the stove, I arranged my extemporised couch +between the seats as before, but was wakened up by the conductor, who +took from me a cushion more than was my due; so I had to spend the +rest of the night nodding on a box at the end of the car. However, +even the longest and most comfortless night will come to an end; and +when at last the morning broke, I went out to ascertain whereabouts we +were. I found that it had snowed heavily during the night; and we now +seemed to be in a much colder and more desolate country. The wind +felt dreadfully keen as I stood on the car platform and looked about; +the dry snow whisking up from the track as the train rushed along. The +fine particles somehow got inside the thickest comforter and wrapper, +and penetrated everywhere. So light and fine were the particles that +they seemed to be like thick hoar-frost blowing through the air. + +We have, I observe, a snow-plough fixed on the front of the engine; +and, from the look of the weather, it would appear as if we should +have abundant use for it yet. Snow-fences and snow-sheds are numerous +along the line we are traversing, for the purpose of preventing the +cuts being drifted up by the snow. At first, I could not quite make +out the nature of these fences, standing about ten yards from the +track, and in some parts extending for miles. They are constructed of +woodwork, and are so made as to be capable of being moved from place +to place, according as the snow falls thick or is drifting. That is +where the road is on a level, with perhaps an opening amidst the +rolling hills on one side or the other; but when we pass through a +cutting we are protected by a snow-shed, usually built of boards +supported on poles. + +At Laramie City, we stop for breakfast. The name of "City" is given to +several little collections of houses along the line. I observe that +the writer of the 'Trans-Continental Guide-book' goes almost into fits +when describing the glories of these "Cities," which, when we come up +to them, prove to be little more than so many clusters of sheds. I +was not, therefore, prepared to expect much from the City of Laramie; +and the more so as I knew that but a few years since the original Fort +Laramie consisted of only a quadrangular enclosure inhabited by +trappers, who had established it for trading purposes with the +Indians. I was accordingly somewhat surprised to find that the modern +Laramie had suddenly shot up into a place of some population and +importance. The streets are broad and well laid out; the houses are +numerous, and some of them large and substantial. The place is already +provided with schools, hotels, banks, and a newspaper. The Railway +Company have some good substantial shops here, built of stone; and +they have also provided a very commodious hospital for the use of +their employes when injured or sick--an example that might be followed +with advantage in places of even greater importance. + +After a stoppage of about half an hour, we were again careering +up-hill past Fort Saunders and the Red Buttes, the latter so-called +from the bold red sandstone bluffs, in some places a thousand feet +high, which bound the track on our right. Then still up-hill to +Harney, beyond which we cross Dale Creek Bridge--a wonderful +structure, 650 feet long and 126 feet high, spanning the creek from +bluff to bluff. Looking down through the interstices of the wooden +road, what a distance the thread of water in the hollow seemed to be +below us! + +At Sherman, some two hours from Laramie, we arrived at the Summit of +the Rocky Mountain ridge, where we reached the altitude of about 8400 +feet above the sea-level. Of course it was very cold, hill and dale +being covered with snow as far as the eye could reach. Now we rush +rapidly down-hill, the brakes screwed tightly down, the cars whizzing +round the curves, and making the snow fly past in clouds. We have now +crossed the backbone of the continent, and are speeding on towards the +settled and populous country in the East. + +At Cheyenne, we have another stoppage for refreshment. This is one of +the cities with which our guidebook writer falls into ecstasies. It is +"The Magic City of the Plains"--a place of which it "requires neither +a prophet nor the son of a prophet to enumerate its resources or +predict its future!" Yet Cheyenne is already a place of importance, +and likely to become still more so,--being situated at the junction +with the line to Denver, which runs along the rich and lovely valley +of the Colorado. Its population of 8000 seems very large for a place +that so short a time ago was merely the haunt of Red Indians. Already +it has manufactures, warehouses, wharves, and stores of considerable +magnitude; with all the usual appurtenances of a place of traffic and +business. + +Before leaving Cheyenne, I invested in some hung buffalo steak for +consumption at intervals between meals. It is rather tough and +salt,--something like Hamburg beef; but seasoned with hunger, and with +the appetite sharpened by the cold and frost of these high regions, +the hung buffalo proved useful and nutritious. + +For several hundred miles, our track lay across the +prairie--monotonous, and comparatively uninteresting now, in its +covering of white--but in early summer clad in lively green and +carpeted with flowers. I read that this fine cultivable well-watered +country extends seven hundred miles north and south, along the eastern +base of the Rocky Mountains, with an average width of two hundred +miles. It is said to be amongst the finest grazing land in the world, +with pasturage for millions of cattle and sheep. + +Shortly after passing Antelope Station, the track skirts the "Prairie +Dog City," which I knew at once by its singular appearance. It +consists of hundreds of little mounds of soil, raised about a foot and +a half from the ground. There were, however, no dogs about at the +time. The biting cold had doubtless sent them within doors. Indeed, I +saw no wild animals on my journey across the continent, excepting only +some black antelopes with white faces, that I saw on the plains near +this Prairie Dog City. + +For a distance of more than five hundred miles--from leaving Cheyenne +until our arrival in Omaha--the railway held along the left bank of +the Lodge Pole Creek, then along the South Fork or Platte river, and +finally along the main Platte river down to near its junction with the +Missouri. When I went to sleep on the night of the 11th of +February--my fourth night in the railway train--we were travelling +through the level prairie; and when I woke up on the following +morning, I found we were on the prairie still. + +At seven in the morning, we halted at the station of Grand Island--so +called from the largest island in the Platte river, near at hand. Here +I had breakfast, and a good wash in ice-cold water. Although the snow +is heavier than ever, the climate seems already milder. Yet it is very +different indeed from the sweltering heat of Honolulu only some twelve +days ago. At about 10 A.M., we bid adieu to the uninhabited +prairie--though doubtless before many years are over, it will be +covered with farms and homesteads--and approached the fringe of the +settled country; patches of cultivated land and the log huts of the +settlers beginning to show themselves here and there alongside the +track. + +Some eighty miles from Omaha, we cross the north fork of the Platte +river over one of the usual long timber bridges on piles,--and +continue to skirt the north bank of the Great Platte,--certainly a +very remarkable river, being in some places three-quarters of a mile +broad, with an average depth of only six inches! At length, on the +afternoon of the fifth day, the engine gives a low whistle, and we +find ourselves gliding into the station at Omaha. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +OMAHA TO CHICAGO. + +OMAHA TERMINUS--CROSS THE MISSOURI--COUNCIL BLUFFS--THE FOREST--CROSS +THE MISSISSIPPI--THE CULTIVATED PRAIRIE--THE FARMSTEADS AND +VILLAGES--APPROACH TO CHICAGO--THE CITY OF CHICAGO--ENTERPRISE OF ITS +MEN--THE WATER TUNNELS UNDER LAKE MICHIGAN--TUNNELS UNDER THE RIVER +CHICAGO--UNION OF LAKE MICHIGAN WITH THE MISSISSIPPI--DESCRIPTION OF +THE STREETS AND BUILDINGS OF CHICAGO--PIGS AND CORN--THE +AVENUE--SLEIGHING--THEATRES AND CHURCHES. + + +I have not much to tell about Omaha, for I did not make any long stay +in the place, being anxious to get on and finish my journey. It was +now my fifth day in the train, having come a distance of 1912 miles +from San Francisco; and I had still another twenty-four hours' travel +before me to Chicago. There was nothing to detain me in Omaha. It is +like all places suddenly made by railway, full of bustle and business, +but by no means picturesque. How can it be? The city is only seventeen +years old. Its principal buildings are manufactories, breweries, +warehouses, and hotels. + +Omaha has been made by the fact of its having been fixed upon as the +terminus of the Union Pacific Railroad, and by its convenient position +on the great Missouri river. It occupies a sloping upland on the +right bank, about fifty feet above the level of the stream; and behind +it stretches the great Prairie country we have just traversed. On the +opposite bank of the Missouri stands Council Bluffs, from which +various railroad lines diverge north, south, and east, to all parts of +the Union. It is probable, therefore, that before many years have +passed, big though Omaha may now be--and it already contains 20,000 +inhabitants--the advantages of its position will tend greatly to swell +its population, and perhaps to render it in course of time one of the +biggest cities of the West. + +[Illustration: (Map of Atlantic and Pacific Railways) _Reduced from a +Map in Mr. Rae's_] + +Having arranged to proceed onwards to Chicago by the North-Western +line, I gave up my baggage in exchange for the usual check, and took +my place in the train. We rolled down a steepish incline, on to the +"mighty Missouri," which we crossed upon a bridge of boats. I should +not have known that I was upon a deep and rapid river, but for the +huge flat-bottomed boats that I saw lying frozen in along the banks. +It was easy to mistake the enormous breadth of ice for a wide field +covered with snow. As we proceeded across we met numbers of sledges, +coaches, and omnibuses driving over the ice along a track made in the +deep snow not far from our bridge. + +[Illustration: _'Westward by Rail.' Longmans._ 1871.] + +After passing through Council Bluffs, we soon lost sight of the town +and its suburbs, and were again in the country. But how different the +prospect from the car window, compared with the bare and unsettled +prairies which we had traversed for so many hundred miles west of +Omaha! Now, thick woods extend on both sides of the track, with an +occasional cleared space for a township, where we stop to take up and +set down passengers. But I shall not proceed further with my +description of winter scenery as viewed from a passing railway train. +Indeed, I fear that my descriptions heretofore, though rapid, must be +felt somewhat monotonous, for which I crave the reader's forgiveness. + +I spent my fifth night in the train pretty comfortably, having +contrived to makeup a tolerable berth. Shortly after I awoke, we +crossed the Mississippi on a splendid bridge at Fulton. What a noble +river it is! Here, where it must be fifteen hundred miles from its +mouth, it seemed to me not less than a mile across. Like the Missouri, +however, it is now completely frozen over and covered with thick snow. + +We are again passing through a prairie country, the fertile land of +upper Illinois, all well settled and cultivated. We pass a succession +of fine farms and farmsteads. The fields are divided by rail fences; +and in some places stalks of maize peep up through the snow. The +pretty wooden houses are occasionally half hidden by the snow-laden +trees amidst which they stand. These Illinois clusters of +country-houses remind one very much of England, they look so snug and +homelike; and they occupy a gently undulating country,--lovely, no +doubt, in summer time. But the small towns we passed could never be +mistaken for English. They are laid out quite regularly, each house +with its little garden surrounding it; the broad streets being planted +with avenues of trees. + +The snow is lying very heavy on the ground; and there are drifts we +pass through full twenty feet deep on either side the road. But the +day is fine, the sky is clear and blue, the sun shines brightly, and +the whole scene looks much more cheerful than the Rocky Mountain +region in the west. + +Very shortly, evidences appear of our approach to a considerable +place. In fact, we are nearing Chicago. But long before we reach it, +we pass a succession of pretty villas and country-houses, quite in the +English suburban style, with gardens, shrubberies, and hothouses. +These are the residences of the Chicago merchants. The houses become +more numerous, and before long we are crossing streets and +thoroughfares, the engine snorting slowly along, and the great bell +ringing to warn all foot-passengers off the track. + +What an immense smoky place we have entered: so different from the +pure snow-white prairie country we have passed. It looks just like +another Manchester. But I suspect we have as yet traversed only the +manufacturing part of the city, as the only buildings heretofore +visible are small dwelling-houses and manufactories. At length we pull +up in the station, and find ourselves safely landed in Chicago. + +Oh, the luxury of a good wash after a continuous journey of two +thousand four hundred miles by rail! What a blessing cold water is, +did we but know it. The luxury, also, of taking off one's clothes to +sleep in a bed, after five nights' rolling about in railway +cars,--that also is a thing to be enjoyed once in a lifetime! But, for +the sake of the pleasure, I confess I have no particular desire to +repeat the process. + +And now for the wonders of Chicago. It is really a place worth going a +long way to see. It exhibits the enterprise of the American people in +its most striking light. Such immense blocks of buildings forming fine +broad streets, such magnificent wharves and warehouses, such splendid +shops, such handsome churches, and such elegant public buildings! One +can scarcely believe that all this has been the work of little more +than thirty years. + +It is true, the situation of Chicago at the head of Lake Michigan, +with a great fertile country behind it, has done much for the place; +but without the _men_, Chicago would have been nothing. It is human +industry and energy that have made it what it is. Nothing seems too +bold or difficult for the enterprise of Chicago men. One of their most +daring but successful feats was in altering the foundation level of +the city. It was found that the business quarter was laid too +low--that it was damp, and could not be properly drained. It was +determined to raise the whole quarter bodily from six to eight feet +higher! And the extraordinary feat was accomplished with the help of +screw-jacks, safely and satisfactorily. + +With the growth of population--and its increase was most rapid (from +4000 persons in 1837 to about 350,000 at the present time)--the +difficulty of obtaining pure water steadily increased. There was pure +water enough in the lake outside, but along shore it was so polluted +by the sewage that it could not be used with safety. Two methods were +adopted to remedy this evil. One was, to make Artesian wells 700 feet +deep, which yield about a million gallons of pure water per day; but +another, and much bolder scheme, was undertaken, that of carrying a +tunnel under the bed of the lake, two miles out, into perfectly pure +water; and this work was successfully accomplished and completed on +the 25th of March, 1867, when the water was let into the tunnel to +flow through the pipes and quadrants of the city. Thus 57 million +gallons of water per day could be supplied to the inhabitants. + +Another important and daring work was that involved in carrying the +traffic of the streets from one side of the Chicago river (which flows +through the city) to the other, without the interference of bridges. +This was accomplished by means of tunnels constructed beneath the bed +of the river. The first tunnel was carried across from Washington +Street to the other side some years since; it was arched with brick, +floored with timber, and lighted with gas. The second, lower down the +same river, was still in progress at the period of my visit to the +city in March last, and is not yet completed. By means of these +tunnels the traffic of the streets will be sufficiently accommodated, +without any interruption by the traffic of the river,--large ships +proceeding directly up to the wharves above to load and unload their +cargoes. + +But the boldest project of all remains to be mentioned. It is neither +more nor less than the cutting down of the limestone ridge which +intervenes between the head-waters of the River Chicago and those of +the River Illinois, which flows into the Mississippi. The water supply +being still found insufficient, the carrying out of a second tunnel +into deep water under the bed of the lake was projected. It then +occurred to the Chicago engineers that a more simple method would be, +instead of going out into the lake for the pure water, to make the +pure water come to them. The sewage-laden stream of the Chicago river +now flowed north into the lake; would it not be practicable, by +cutting down the level inland, to make it flow south, and thus bring +the pure water of the lake in an abundant stream past their very +doors? + +This scheme has actually been carried out! The work was in progress +while I was there, and I observe that it has since been completed. The +limestone plateau to the south of Chicago has been cut down at a cost +of about three millions of dollars; and an abundant supply of pure +water has thus been secured to the town for ever. But the cutting of +this artificial river for the purpose of water supply has opened up +another and a much larger question. It is, whether by sufficiently +deepening the bed, a channel may not be formed for large ocean-going +ships, so that Chicago may be placed in direct water communication +with the Gulf of Mexico, as it now is with the Gulf of St. Lawrence. +Should this project, which was freely spoken of when I was at Chicago, +be carried out, it may lead to very important consequences. While it +may have the effect of greatly promoting the prosperity of Chicago, it +may also have an altogether different result. "The letting out of +waters" is not always a safe thing; and the turning of the stream, or +any considerable part of the stream which now passes over the falls of +Niagara, into the bed of the Mississippi--whose swollen waters are +sometimes found sufficiently unmanageable as it is--might have a very +extraordinary and even startling effect upon the low-lying regions at +the mouth of that great river. But this is a point that must be left +for geologists and engineers to speculate about and to settle. + +Shortly after my arrival in Chicago, I went out for a wander in the +streets. I was accompanied by the Hotel "tout" who soon gave me his +history. He had been a captain in the English army, had run through +all his money, and come here to make more. He had many reminiscences +to relate of his huntings in Leicestershire, of his life in the army, +of his foolish gamblings, of his ups and downs in America, and his +present prospects. Nothing daunted by his mishaps, he was still full +of hope. He was an agent for railways, agent for a billiard-table +manufacturer and for several patents, and believed he should soon be a +rich man again. But no one, he said, had any chance in Chicago, unless +he was prepared to work, and to work hard. "A man," he observed, "must +have his eyes peeled to make money; as for the lazy man, he hasn't the +ghost of a chance here." + +My guide took me along the principal streets, which were full of +traffic and bustle, the men evidently intent upon business, pushing +on, looking neither to the right hand nor the left. The streets are +mostly stone-paved, and, in spite of the heavy snow which has fallen, +they are clean and well kept. We passed the City Hall, the Chamber of +Commerce, and the Post Office--all fine buildings. In the principal +streets, the houses are five stories high, with handsome marble +fronts. The office of the 'Chicago Tribune,' situated at the corner of +one of the chief thoroughfares, is a splendid pile with a spacious +corner entrance. The Potter Palmer block, chiefly occupied as a +gigantic draper's shop--here called a Dry Goods' Store--is an immense +pile of buildings, with massive marble front handsomely carved. But +the building which promises shortly to overtop all others in Chicago, +is the Pacific Hotel, now in course of erection,--an enormous +structure, covering an acre and a half of ground, with a frontage of +325 feet, and a height of 104 feet. It is expected to be the largest +and finest building in the city, until something else is projected to +surpass and excel it. + +In my progress through the streets I came upon two huge steam cranes +at work, hoisting up stuff from a great depth below. I was told that +this was the second tunnel in course of construction underneath the +bed of the river to enable the traffic to pass across without the +necessity for bridges. The stream over the tunnel was busy with +shipping. In one street I passed a huge pile of dead pigs in front of +a sausage shop. They go in pigs and come out sausages. Pork is one of +the great staples of the place; the number of pigs slaughtered in +Chicago being something enormous. The pig-butcheries and pork stores +are among the largest buildings in the city. My guide assures me that +at least a pig a second is killed and dressed in Chicago all the year +through. Another street was occupied by large stores of grain, fruit, +and produce of all kinds. The pathways were filled with farmers and +grain brokers, settling bargains and doing business. And yet it was +not market day, when the streets are far more crowded and full of +bustle. + +Some idea of the enormous amount of business in grain done in Chicago +may be formed from the fact that in one year, 1868, sixty-eight +million bushels of grain were shipped from its wharves. It is the +centre of the grain trade of the States; lines of railway concentre +upon it from all parts of the interior; and, by means of shipping, the +produce is exported to the Eastern States, to Great Britain, or to any +other part of the world where it is needed. + +The street cars go jingling along with their heavy loads of +passengers. A continual stream of people keeps coming and going. There +are many young ladies afoot, doing their shopping; enveloped in furs, +and some with white scarfs--or "clouds" as they are called--round +their heads. Loud advertisements, of all colours, shapes, and sizes, +abound on every side. Pea-nut sellers at their stands on the pavement +invite the passers-by to purchase, announcing that they roast fresh +every half-hour. What amused me, in one of the by-streets from which +the frozen snow had not been removed, was seeing a number of boys +skating along at full speed. + +Fronting the lake is the fashionable avenue of the city. Here, nice +detached houses range along the broad road for miles. Trees shade the +carriage-way, which in summer must look beautiful. Now all is covered +with hard-frozen snow, over which the sleigh-bells sound merrily as +the teams come dashing along. Here comes a little cutter with a pretty +black pony, which trots saucily past, and is followed by a grand +double-seated sleigh drawn by three splendid greys. Other sleighs, +built for lightness and speed, are drawn by fast-trotting horses, in +which the Americans take so much delight. The object of most of the +young men who are out sleighing seems to be to pass the sleigh in +front of them, so that some very smart racing is usually to be seen +along the Avenue drive. + +As might be expected from the extent and wealth of its population, +Chicago is well supplied with places of amusement. I observe that +Christine Nilsson is here at present, and she is an immense favourite. +There are also many handsome stone churches in the city, which add +much to the fine appearance of the place. But I had neither time to +visit the theatres nor the churches, as my time in Chicago was already +up, and I, accordingly, made arrangements for pursuing my journey +eastward.[17] + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 17: It will be observed that the above summary description +applies to Chicago as it was seen by the writer in February last. +While these sheets are passing through the press, the appalling +intelligence has arrived from America that the magnificent city has +been almost entirely destroyed by fire!] + +[Illustration: NIAGARA FALLS--AMERICAN SIDE.] + + + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +CHICAGO TO NEW YORK. + +LEAVE CHICAGO--THE ICE HARVEST--MICHIGAN CITY--THE FOREST--A RAILWAY +SMASHED--KALAMAZOO--DETROIT--CROSSING INTO CANADA--AMERICAN +MANNERS--ROEBLING'S SUSPENSION BRIDGE--NIAGARA FALLS IN WINTER--GOAT +ISLAND--THE AMERICAN FALL--THE GREAT HORSE-SHOE FALL--THE RAPIDS FROM +THE LOVERS' SEAT--AMERICAN COUSINS--ROCHESTER--NEW YORK--A +CATASTROPHE--RETURN HOME. + + +For some distance out of Chicago, the railway runs alongside the fine +avenue fronting Lake Michigan. We pass a long succession of villas +amidst their gardens and shrubberies, now white with snow and frost. +Then we cross an inlet on a timber viaduct laid on piles driven into +the bed of the lake. The ice at some parts is thrown up irregularly in +waves, and presents a strange aspect. It looks as if it had been +frozen solid in one moment at a time when the wind was blowing pretty +hard. + +At another part, where the ice is smoother, men were getting in the +ice harvest between us and the shore. The snow is first cleared from +the surface by means of a snow plane. Then the plough, drawn by a +horse, with a man guiding the sharp steel cutter, makes a deep groove +into the ice. These grooves are again crossed by others at right +angles, until the whole of the surface intended to be gathered in is +divided into sections of about four feet square. When that is done, +several of the first blocks taken out are detached by means of +hand-saws; after which the remainder are easily broken off with +crow-bars. The blocks are then stored in the large ice-houses on +shore, several of which are so large as to be each capable of holding +some 20,000 tons of ice. + +The consumption of ice in the States is enormous. Every one takes ice +in their water, in winter as well as in summer. Even the commonest +sort of people consume it largely; and they send round to the store +for ten cents' worth of ice, just as our people send round to the +nearest public for six penny worth of beer. I have heard Americans who +have been in London complain of the scarcity of ice with us, and the +parsimonious way in which it is used. But then we have not the +enormous natural stores of ice close to our doors, as they have at +Chicago and many other of the large American towns. + +Meanwhile we have skirted the shores of the lake, and shot into the +country, the snow lying deep in the fields, in some places quite +covering the tops of the fences. After passing through a rather +thickly-wooded country, we came to Michigan city, which stands close +to the lake, with a river flowing past it, on which large barges piled +high with timber are now completely frozen up. What a pretty place +this Michigan must be in summer time, when the trees which line the +streets, and all the shady gardens about it, are clad in green. Even +now the town has a brisk, cheerful look. The sleighs are running +merrily over the snow, and the omnibuses glide smoothly along the +streets on their "runners." + +Taking one last look of the great inland sea, we struck across the +broad peninsula formed by Lake Michigan on one side and Lake Huron on +the other, to the town of Detroit. The country was very thickly wooded +in some places,--apparently the remains of the old primeval forest. +Yet there were towns and villages at frequent intervals along the +route. The deer have not yet been extirpated, for often and again I +saw their tracks in the snow along the banks of the railway. + +At one part of the road the speed of the train slackened, and the +engine moved along slowly, whistling as it went. What was wrong? I got +out on to the platform to see. We soon came up to a smashed train; +frames of cars, wrecks of cases, wheels, axles, and _debris_, lying +promiscuously tumbled together. I asked the conductor what had +happened? He answered quite coolly, "Guess the express ran into the +goods train!" It looked very much like it! + +In the course of the day we passed several small manufacturing towns. +It seemed so odd, when we appeared as if travelling through the back +woods, to see above the trees, not far off, a tall red chimney, where +not long before we had passed the track of the wild deer. There was +one very large manufactory--so large that it had a special branch to +itself connecting it with the main track--at a place called Kalamazoo, +reminding one of Red Indians and war trails over this ground not so +very long ago. The town of Kalamazoo itself is a large and busy place: +who knows but that it may contain the embryo of some future Leeds or +Manchester? + +It was dark when the train reached Detroit, where we had to cross the +river which runs between Lake St. Clair and Lake Erie by ferry-boat +into Canada. The street being dark, I missed my way, and at last found +myself on the edge of the water when I least expected it. I got on +board just as the last bell was sounding before the boat put off from +the quay. I then had my baggage checked on to Niagara, a custom-house +officer on board marking all the pieces intended only to pass through +Canada, thereby avoiding examination. All the arrangements of the +American railways with respect to luggage seem to me excellent, and +calculated greatly to promote the convenience of the travelling +public. + +We were not more than a quarter of an hour on board the ferry-boat, +during which I found time to lay in a good supper in the splendid +saloon occupying the upper story of the vessel. Arrived at the +Canadian side, there was a general rush to the train; and the +carriages were soon filled. There were great complaints amongst some +of the passengers that the Pullman's cars were all full, and that no +beds were to be had; there being usually a considerable run upon these +convenient berths, especially in the depth of winter. + +My next neighbour during the night was a very pleasant gentleman--an +American. I must here confess to the agreeable disappointment I have +experienced with respect to the Americans I have hitherto come in +contact with. I have as yet met with no specimens of the typical +Yankee depicted by satirists and novelists. In my innocence I expected +to be asked in the cars such questions as "I guess you're a Britisher, +Sir?" "Where do you come from, Stranger?" "Where are you going to, +Sir?" "What are you going to do when you get there?" and such like. It +is true that at San Francisco I encountered a few of such questions, +but the persons who put them were for the most part only hotel +touters. Among the Americans of about my own condition with whom I +travelled, I met with nothing but politeness and civility. I will go +further, and say that the generality of Americans are more ready to +volunteer a kindness than is usual in England. They are always ready +to answer a question, to offer a paper, to share a rug, or perhaps +tender a cigar. They are generally easy in manner, yet unobtrusive. I +will also add, that so far as my experience goes, the average +intelligence of young men in America is considerably higher than it is +in England. They are better educated and better informed; and I met +few or none who were not able to enter into any topic of general +conversation, and pursue it pleasantly. + +I saw but little of Canada, for I passed through what is called the +"London district" of it in the night. It was about four in the morning +when the train reached the suspension bridge which crosses from Canada +into the States, about a mile and a half below the Falls of Niagara. +We were soon upon the bridge,--a light, airy-looking structure, made +principally of strong wire,--and I was out upon the carriage platform, +looking down into the gorge below. It was bright moonlight, so that I +could see well about me. There were the snow-covered cliffs on either +side, and the wide rift between them two hundred and fifty feet deep, +in the bottom of which ran the river at a speed of about thirty miles +an hour. It almost made the head dizzy to look down. But we were soon +across the bridge, and on solid land again. We were already within +hearing of the great roar of the Falls, not unlike the sound of an +express train coming along the track a little distance of. Shortly +after, we reached our terminus and its adjoining hotel, in which for a +time I forgot the Falls and everything else in a sound sleep. + +The first thing that struck me on wakening was the loud continuous +roar near at hand. I was soon up and out, and on my way to the Falls, +seated in a grand sleigh drawn by a pair of fine black horses. +Remember it was the dead of winter, the fifteenth of February, not by +any means the time of the year for going about sight-seeing; and yet I +fancy the sight of Niagara in mid-winter must be quite as astonishing, +and perhaps even more picturesque, than at any other season. + +Over the crisp snow, and through the clean little town, the sleigh +went flying, the roar of the water growing louder as we neared the +Falls. Soon we are at the gates of a bridge, where a toll is charged +for admission to the island from which the great Falls are best seen. +Crossing the bridge, we reach the small island, on which a large paper +mill has been erected; and I am pointed to a rock to which last winter +a poor fellow--beyond the reach of safety, though in sight--clung for +hours, until, unable to hold on any longer, he was finally swept away +down the torrent. + +We cross another small bridge, and are on the celebrated Goat Island, +which divides the great Canadian from the smaller American fall. My +driver first took me to a point on the American side of this island, +from which a fine view is to be obtained. The sight is certainly most +wonderful. I walked down a steep pathway slippery with ice, with steps +cut here and there in the rock, and suddenly found myself on the brink +of the precipice. Close to my left, the water was pouring down into a +chasm a hundred and sixty feet below, disappearing in a great blue +cavern of ice that seemed to swallow it up. By the continual freezing +of the spray, this great ice-cave reaches higher and higher during +winter time. Immense icicles, some fifty feet long, hang down the +sides of the rock immediately over the precipice. The trees on the +island above were bent down with the weight of the frozen spray, which +hung in masses from their branches. The blending of the ice and water +far beneath my feet was a remarkable sight. As the spray and mist from +time to time cleared off, I looked deep down into the dark icy abyss, +in which the water roared, and foamed, and frothed, and boiled again. + +Then I went to the other side of the island, quite fairy-like as it +glistened in the sunlight, gemmed with ice-drops, and clad in its +garment of white. And there I saw that astounding sight, the great +Horse-shoe Fall, seven hundred feet across, over which the enormous +mass of water pours with tremendous force. As the water rolled over +the cliff, it seemed to hang like a green curtain in front of it, +until it reached half-way down; then gradually breaking, white streaks +appeared in it, broadening as they descended, until at length the +mighty mass sprouted in foam, and fell roaring into the terrific gulf +some hundred and fifty feet below. A great ice bridge stretched across +the river beyond the boiling water at the bottom of the Fall, rough +and uneven like some of the Swiss glaciers. Clouds of spray flew +about, seemingly like smoke or steam. Words fail to describe a scene +of such overpowering grandeur as this. + +I was next driven along Goat Island to a small suspension bridge, some +distance above the Falls, where I crossed over to one of the three +Sister Islands--small bits of land jutting right out into the middle +of the rapids. The water passes between each of these islands. I went +out to the extreme point of the furthest. The sight here is perhaps +second only to the great Fall itself. The river, about a mile and a +quarter wide, rushes down the heavy descent, contracting as it goes, +before leaping the precipice below. The water was tossing and foaming +like an angry sea, reminding me of the ocean when the waves are +running high and curling their white crests after a storm. + +These rapids had far more fascination for me than the Falls +themselves. I could sit and watch for hours the water rushing past; +and it was long before I could leave them, though my feet were in deep +snow. It must be very fine to sit out at that extreme point in summer +time, shaded by the rich foliage of the trees, and dream away the +hours. The seat is known as the Lovers' seat, but lovers would need to +have strong lungs to shout their whispers to each other there, if they +wished them to be heard. + +At length I turned my back upon the foaming torrent, and resumed the +road to my hotel. On my way back, I stopped at the genuine Niagara +curiosity-shop, where photographs, Indian bead and feather work, and +articles manufactured out of the "real Niagara spar," are sold. Only +the photographs are really genuine and good. The bead-work is a +manufacture, and probably never passed through Indian hands; while the +Niagara spar is imported from Matlock, much of it doubtless returning +to England in the form of curious specimens of workmanship from the +Great Falls. + + * * * * * + +I have very little more to add relating to my journey through the +States. I was not making a tour, but passing through America at +railway speed on my way home to England; and I have merely described, +in the most rapid and cursory way, the things that struck me along my +route. All that remained for me to do between Niagara and New York, +was to call at Rochester, and pay an unheralded visit to my American +cousins there. What English family has not got relations in the +States? I find that I have them living in Rochester, Boston, and St. +Louis. It is the same blood, after all, in both countries--in Old and +New England. + +After travelling through the well-cultivated, well-peopled country +that extends eastward from Niagara to Rochester, I arrived at my +destination about four in the afternoon, and immediately went in +search of my American cousins. I was conscious of being a rather +untidy sight to look at, after my long railway journey of nearly three +thousand miles, and did not know what, in my rough travelling guise, +my reception might be. But any misgivings on that point were soon set +at rest by the cordiality of my reception. I was at once made one of +the family, and treated as such. I enjoyed with my new-found relatives +four delightful days of recruiting rest and friendly intercourse. To +use the common American phrase, I had a "real good time." + +The town of Rochester is much bigger than the English city of the same +name. It is a place of considerable trade and importance, with a +population of about 60,000. Some of the commercial buildings are very +fine; and I was told of one place, that it was "the finest fire-proof +establishment in the world." Possibly the American world was meant, +and that is by no means a small one. Rochester is especially famous +for its nurseries, where trees of all kinds are reared and sent far +and near; its principal nursery firms being known all over Europe. + +There are some fine waterfalls near Rochester--the falls of the +Genesee. Had I not seen Niagara, I should have doubtless wondered at +their beauty. Their height is as great, but the quantity of water is +wanting. After Niagara, all other falls must seem comparatively tame. + +My short stay in Rochester was made most pleasant. I felt completely +at home and at my ease in the American household I had so suddenly +entered. I also accompanied my cousins to two evening entertainments, +one a fancy dress ball, and the other a _soiree dansante_, where I +made the passing acquaintance of some very agreeable American ladies +and gentlemen. I was really sorry to leave Rochester; and as the +carriage drove me along the pretty avenue to the station, I felt as if +I were just leaving a newly-found home. + +I travelled from Rochester to New York during the night, passing +several large towns, and at some places iron-furnaces at work, +reminding one of the "Black country" in England by night. The noble +Hudson was hard bound in ice as we passed along its banks, so that I +missed the beautiful sight that it presents in summer time. But it is +unnecessary for me to dwell either upon the Hudson or the city of New +York, about which most people are in these days well read up. As for +New York, I cannot say that I was particularly struck by it, except by +its situation, which is superb, and by its magnitude, which is +immense. It seemed to me only a greater Manchester, with larger +signboards, a clearer atmosphere, and a magnificent river front. It +contains no great buildings of a metropolitan character, unless +amongst such buildings are to be included hotels, newspaper offices, +and dry goods stores, some of which are really enormous piles. +Generally speaking, New York may be described as a city consisting of +comparatively insignificant parts greatly exaggerated, and almost +infinitely multiplied. It may be want of taste; but on the whole, I +was better pleased with Chicago. The season of my visit was doubtless +unpropitious. Who could admire the beauties of the noble Central Park +in the dead of winter? Perhaps, too, I was not in a good humour to +judge of New York, as it was there that I met with my first and only +misfortune during my two years' absence from home. For there I was +robbed. + +I had been strongly urged by my friends at Rochester to go to Booth's +Theatre to see Mr. Booth play in 'Richelieu,' as a thing not to be +seen in the same perfection anywhere else. I went accordingly, enjoyed +Booth's admirable acting, and returned to my hotel. When I reached +there, on feeling my pocket, lo! my purse was gone! I had been +relieved of it either in the press at the theatre exit, or in entering +or leaving the tramway car on my return. + +I had my ticket for Liverpool safe in my waistcoat pocket; but there +was my hotel bill to pay, and several necessaries to purchase for use +during the voyage home. What was I to do? I knew nobody in New York. +It was too far from home to obtain a remittance from thence, and I was +anxious to leave without further delay. I bethought me of the kind +friends I had left at Rochester, acquainted them with my misfortune, +and asked for a temporary loan of twenty dollars. By return post an +order arrived for a hundred. "A friend in need is a friend indeed." + +The same post brought two letters from my Rochester friends, in one of +which my correspondent said that my misfortune was one that few +escaped in New York. He himself had been robbed of his purse in a +Broadway stage; his father had been robbed of a pocket-book containing +money; and his father-in-law of a gold watch. My other kind +correspondent, who enclosed me his cheque, said, by way of caution, +"You must bear in mind that the principal streets of New York are +full of pickpockets and desperadoes. They will recognize you as a +stranger, so you must be wary. You may be 'spotted' as you go into or +come out of the banking office. It often happens that a man is robbed +in Wall Street in open day,--is knocked down and his money 'grabbed' +before his eyes. So be very careful and trust nobody. Go alone to the +banking office, or get a trusty servant from the house to go with you. +But let no outsider see cheque or money." + +Of course I took very good care not to be robbed in New York a second +time, and I got away from it in safety next morning by the 'City of +Brooklyn,' taking with me the above very disagreeable reminiscence of +my New York experience. It is not necessary to describe the voyage +home,--the passage from New York to Liverpool being now as familiar an +event as the journey from London to York. At Queenstown I telegraphed +my arrival to friends at home, and by the time the ship entered the +Mersey there were those waiting at the landing-place to give me a +cordial welcome back. I ran up to town by the evening train, and was +again at home. Thus I completed my Voyage Round the World, in the +course of which I have gained health, knowledge, and experience, and +seen and learnt many things which will probably furnish me with matter +for thought in all my future life. + + + + +INDEX. + +Albatross, 45, 51. + +Alta, Central Pacific Railway, 258. + +American cousins, 296; + Indians, 262; + manners, 291; + railway cars, 251. + +Amusements onboard ship, 18, 24, 25, 43, 54, 56. + +Arrival of Home Mail, Majorca, 179. + +Arum esculentum, Honolulu, 227. + +Atlantic and Pacific Railway, 250-274; + the railway cars, 251; + Sacramento city, 253; + scenery of the Sierra Nevada, 255; + Cape Horn, 258; + snow-sheds, 259, 270; + the Summit, 259; + the Sage desert, 261; + Shoshonie Indians, 262; + Devil's Peak, 263; + Weber Canon, 266; + Laramie City, 270; + Cheyenne, 272; + Prairie Dog City, 273; + River Platte, 273; + arrival at Omaha, 274. + +Auckland, New Zealand, 205-211. + +Aurora Australis, 129. + +Australia, first sight of, 56; + last, 204. + +Autumn rains, Majorca, 130. + +Avoca, 176. + +Azores, 17. + + +Ballarat, visit to, 163-170. + +Bank, at Majorca, 91, 130. + +Bank-robbing, 159. + +Bar at a Gold-rush, 87. + +Batman, first settler in Victoria, 63. + +Battle Mount, Nevada, 262. + +Becalmed on the Line, 29. + +Beggars, absence of in Victoria, 64, 95. + +Bell-bird, 134. + +Birds in South Atlantic, 50. + +Black Thursday in Victoria, 121. + +'Blue Jacket,' burning of, 32-38. + +Bonitos, 22, 25. + +Booth's Theatre, New York, 299. + +Botanic Gardens Melbourne, 71. + +Botany Bay, 193. + +Bourke Street, Melbourne, 61. + +Brighton, 59, 71. + +Brooke, the murderer, 156-158. + +Bush-Animals:--marsupials, 131, 132, 138, 139; + reptiles, 137; + birds, 134-136. + +Bush-fires, 121. + +Bush, the, 104; + in summer, 118, 127; + by moonlight, 178. + +Bush-piano, 129. + + +Calms on the Line, 29. + +Cape Brett, 205. + +Cape de Verd Islands, 21. + +Cape Horn, Central Pacific Railway, 258. + +Cape Leeuwin, 56. + +Cape of Good Hope, 44, 47. + +Cape Otway, 56, 57. + +Cape-pigeons, 46, 51. + +Carlton Gardens, Melbourne, 65. + +Castlemaine, 80. + +Castle Rocks, Rocky Mountains, 267. + +Cautions against robbers, 160, 299. + +Central Pacific Railway, 255-264. + +Channel, in the, 5, 6. + +Cheltenham, Australia, 71. + +Cheyenne, U.S., 272. + +Chicago, arrival at, 279; + enterprise of, 280; + water-supply, 280-281; + tunnels under river, 281, 284; + buildings, 283, 284; + pigs and pork, 284; + grain-trade of, 285; + sleighs, 286; + departure from, 287. + +Chinese, character, 65-66; + gardens and gardeners, 93, 110, 115; + music, 102; + burials, 103; + gold-diggers, 142-144, 148; + at Honolulu, 234; + at San Francisco, 246. + +Christmas, in Victoria, 121, 190. + +'City of Melbourne,' s.s., 202-19. + +Climate of Victoria: + winter, 107; + spring, 116; + summer, 117; + autumn, 125, 130. + +Clunes, 109-111, 170. + +Coach, journeys by: + Castlemaine to Majorca, 81; + Clunes to Ballarat, 164; + Auckland to Onehunga, 208. + +Cochon Islands, 53. + +Collingwood Bank, attempt to rob, 159. + +Collins Street, Melbourne, 62. + +Cook, Capt., in New South Wales, 193. + +Corner, the, Ballarat, 168. + +Council Bluffs, U.S., 276. + +Crab-holes, 171. + +Crozet Islands, 52. + + +Dale Creek Bridge, U.S., 271. + +Death on board ship, 242. + +Deck-bath in Tropics, 23. + +Descent into a gold-mine, 147. + +Detroit, U.S., 290; + to Niagara, 290-292. + +Devil's Peak, Rocky Mountains, 263; + Gate, 266. + +Diggers, + at a gold-rush, 86, 87, 88; + amateur, 145; + Chinese, 142, 148; + hospitality of, 97, 98. + +Diggers' tales, 126, 150, 155. + +Divers, Honolulu, 232. + +Drink-licence, Honolulu, 234. + +Drunkenness, absence of, in Majorca, 94. + +Dust-winds in Victoria, 128. + + +Echo City and Canon, U.S., 267. + +Elsternwick, 71. + +Elko, Nevada, 263. + +Epsom, New Zealand, 209. + +Eucalyptus, 108. + + +Farms, near Majorca, 125, 126, 128. + +Ferry-boat, San Francisco, 249. + +Fete at Talbot, 173-175; + at Majorca, for School-fund, 185. + +Fires in the Bush, 121. + +Fire-brigade, Ballarat, 169. + +Fitzroy Gardens, Melbourne, 65. + +Flies in Majorca, 121. + +Floods, about Majorca, 111; + at Ballarat, 113-114; + at Clunes, 113. + +Flowers, Majorca, 117. + +Flying-fish, 22, 217. + +Frenchman in Majorca, 181. + +Fruits, Majorca, 122. + +Funeral of Majorca Town Clerk, 187. + + +'Galatea,' H.M.S., 205, 210. + +'George Thompson,' of London, 41. + +Germans, in Victoria, 90, 91, 180, 181. + +Genesee Falls, U.S., 297. + +Goat Island, Niagara, 293. + +Gold: buying, 140-144; + finding, 150-152; + mining, 145-152, 166, 256; + purifying, 141-142; + rushing, 85-88, 153, 165, 166. + +Grain-trade, Chicago, 285. + +Grapes, in Victoria, 124. + +'Great Britain,' of Liverpool, 191. + +Green sea, shipping a, 49. + +Gum-tree, Australian, 83, 108. + + +Harvest-time, Majorca, 125. + +Havelock rush, 154. + +Hawaii, 218. + +Heat in summer, Australia, 118. + +Holystoning, 13. + +Honey suckers, 134. + +Honolulu: arrival at, 219; + the harbour, 220; + commercial importance of, 222; + description of, 223; + churches, 224; + Post Office, 224; + King's Palace at, 226; + visit to the Nuuanu Valley, 226-231; + Poi, 227; + Queen Emma's villa, 228; + the Pali, 230; + the natives, 231; + the women, 233; + liquor-licences, 234; + Chinese opium-licence, 234; + theatricals at, 235; + climate of, 227, 236. + +Honolulu to San Francisco, 237-243. + +Horse-shoe Fall, Niagara, 294. + +Hudson River, 298. + +Humboldt, U.S., 261. + + +Ice-Bird, 51. + +Ice consumption in U.S., 288. + +Ice harvest, Lake Michigan, 288. + +Illinois Prairie, 278. + +Irish in Majorca, 91. + + +Kalamazoo, U.S., 290. + +Kamehameha V., 237. + +Kanakas, Honolulu, 229-233. + +Kangaroo, 138, 200. + + +Landing in Australia, 59. + +Laramie City, U.S., 270. + +Leatherheads, 134. + +Leeches in Victoria, 129. + +Les Apotres Islands, 53. + +Libraries, Public, in Australia,--Melbourne, 66; + Ballarat, 167; + Majorca, 186. + +Line, cross the, 29, 217. + +Liquor-law, Honolulu, 234. + +Lowe Kong Meng Mine, 147. + +'Lord Raglan,' 26, 27. + +Lovers' Seat, Niagara, 295. + +Luggage, on American Railways, 290. + +Lung complaints, sea voyage in, 10. + + +MacCullum's Creek, 114. + +Macquarie Lighthouse, 194. + +Magpie, Australian, 135. + +Mails: Victoria and Honolulu, 225; + delays of, New Zealand, 210; + newspapers by Ocean mail, treatment of, 218; + arrival at Majorca, 179. + +Majorca, life in, 84-188. + +Manukau Bay, New Zealand, 210. + +Maoris, 207. + +Marsupials, 138, 139. + +Maryborough, 81; + rush at, 126. + +Mathews, Mr. Charles, 192, 235. + +Mauna Loa, Sandwich Islands, 219. + +Melbourne, arrival at, 60; + description of, 62; + youth of, 63; + rapid growth of, 64; + absence of beggars, 64; + the Chinese quarter, 65; + public library, 67; + visit to Pentridge Prison, 67-70; + Botanic Gardens, 71; + the Yarra, 71; + the sea suburbs of, 71; + hospitality of, 72; + Christmas in, 190. + +Michigan City, U.S., 289. + +Michigan, Lake, 280-282, 285, 287. + +Mina Birds, 135. + +Mississippi River, 228. + +Missouri River, 276. + +Monument to Cook, 193 (_note_) (now Page 201, _footnote_ 14). + +Moonlight in Victoria, 119, 178. + +Mormon fortifications, 267. + +'Moses Taylor,' s.s., 232, 239, 241. + +Mount Greenock, Australia, 122. + +Musquitoes 133, 236. + + +New chums, 64, 247. + +New York, 298. + +New Zealand, 202-211. + +Niagara Falls in winter, 292-296. + +Nursery Gardens, Rochester, 297. + +Nuuanu Valley, Honolulu, 226. + + +Oahu Island, 222. + +Oakland, California, 251. + +Ogden, Utah, 264. + +Onehunga, New Zealand, 208-210. + +Opium-licence, Honolulu, 234. + +Opossum-shooting, 131-133. + + +Pacific, up the, 212-243. + +Pali, of the Nuuanu Valley, 230. + +Paroquets, 135, 136. + +Parliament House, Melbourne, 61. + +'Patter _v._ Clatter,' at Honolulu, 235 (_note_) (now Page 236, + _footnote 16_). + +Pentridge Prison, 67-70. + +Phosphorescence, 17. + +Pigtail, Chinese, 66. + +Piping-Crow, 135, 136. + +Platte River, U.S., 274. + +Plymouth Harbour, 8. + +Poi, 227, 228. + +Port Jackson, 194-196, 203. + +Port Phillip Heads, 57. + +Possession Island, 53. + +'Pyrmont,' of Hamburg, 32, 38. + + +Queenscliffe, Australia, 58, 191. + + +Race with 'George Thompson,' 42. + +Railway: Atlantic and Pacific, _see Atlantic_; + to Castlemaine, 79; + carriage, American, 251; + smash, 289; + touters at S. Francisco, 247. + +Rain in Victoria, 109, 111. + +Robbed in New York, 299. + +Rochester, U.S., 296. + +'Rosa' of Guernsey, abandoned, 7. + +Rough life at the Diggings, 153. + +Rushes, gold, 85, 86, 153, 165, 166. + + +Sacramento, California, 254. + +Sage-bush, 261. + +'Saginaw,' wreck of the, 238. + +Sail Rock, New Zealand, 205. + +St. Kilda, Victoria, 59, 71. + +San Antonio, 21. + +Sandridge, Victoria, 59, 61, 65, 191. + +Sandwich Islands, 221. + +San Francisco, 243-250; + arrival at, 243; + Bay of, 250; + buildings, 245; + Chinese quarter, 246; + ferry-boat, 249; + money-brokers, 246; + railway touters, 247; + railway terminus, 250; + streets, 246. + +Schools, Majorca, 184. + +Scotch at Majorca, 91. + +Serious family, visit to a, 74. + +Shipping a green sea, 49. + +Shooting sea-birds, 52; + opossums, 131-133. + +Shoshonie Indians, 262. + +"Shouting" for drinks, 94. + +Sierra Nevada, 255-264. + +Sister Islands, Niagara, 295. + +Snakes in the Bush, 137. + +Snow-sheds and fences, Atlantic + and Pacific Railway, 259, 260, 270. + +South Atlantic, 41. + +Spring at Majorca, 116. + +Squatters, 105, 127, 128. + +Steam-voyage, monotony of, 212. + +Stevenson, on power of waves, 49 (_note_) (now Page 53, _footnote_ 2). + +Stink-pot, 51. + +Stockton, California, 253. + +Summer in Victoria, 117. + +Sunrise in the Bush, 178. + +Sunset in the Tropics, 30. + +Suspension Bridge, Niagara, 292. + +Sydney, 196-202; + age of, 197; + animals in Botanic Gardens, 200; + Botanic Gardens, 199, 200; + compared with Melbourne, 197, 198; + Cove, 196; + description of, 197; + domain, 199; + harbours, 197; + public buildings, 197, 199; + suburbs, 201. + +Sydney to New Zealand, 202-211. + + +Talbot, 171-175. + +Taro-plant, 227. + +Tea-meetings, Majorca, 182. + +Teetotallers, 183. + +Telegraph, Victoria, 113, 162. + +Theatres: Honolulu, 224; + Melbourne, 61; + New York, 299. + +Theatricals on board ship, 54, 56. + +Thieves, New York, 299. + +Thousand-mile Tree, 267. + +Three King's Island, New Zealand, 204. + +Trade winds, 19. + +Trestle-bridges, Atlantic and Pacific Railway, 256. + + +Union Pacific Railway, 265-274. + + +Verein, opening of, Majorca, 181. + +Victoria, when colonized, 63, 64. + +Victorian climate, _see Climate_. + +Victorian life, 179, 182, 188. + +Vineyards, Australia, 125. + + +Wahsatch Mountains, U.S., 266. + +Wallaby, 139. + +Water-supply, Chicago, 280, 281. + +Wattle-birds, 134. + +Weber Canon, 266. + +Western Pacific Railway, 250, 254. + +Whale-bird, 46. + +Williamstown, Victoria, 59, 71. + +Wine in Victoria, 124. + +Winter in Majorca, 107. + +Wooloomooloo, Sydney, 196. + +Work in Victoria, 64, 65, 94. + +Wreck of 'Saginaw,' 238. + +Wrens, Victorian, 135. + + +Yarra-Yarra River, 70. + +'Yorkshire,' 1-59. + + * * * * * + +Transcriber's Notes + +Some of the maps have been moved slightly to avoid breaking up the +paragraphs. The map on page 50 was originally split across pages +50-51. + +Minor punctuation corrections and the following changes have been +made: + +CONTENTS: These changes were made to match the chapter headings: + + Under CHAPTER II: The Cape de Verde changed to The Cape de Verd. + + Under CHAPTER III: Paying my "Footing" changed to Paying "Footings". + The Major's Wonderful Story "Capped" changed to The Major's + Wonderful Stories. + + Under CHAPTER XIII: The Piping Crow changed to The Piping-Crow. + + Under CHAPTER XXII: Behavior changed to Behaviour (of the Ship). + + Under CHAPTER XXVII: A Railway Smash changed to A Railway Smashed. + +Pages 2 and 48: mizenmast changed to mizen-mast. + +Page 8: probabilty changed to probability (probability of our). + +Page 13: india-rubber changed to India-rubber. + +Page 16: Repeating "a" removed (water at a splendid pace). + +Page 83: back-ground changed to background. + +Page 88: Footnote 1 in original book, now Page 95: Footnote 6, loss +changed to less (no less than ten engines). + +Pages 118 and 303: Piping crow changed to piping-crow. + +Page 125: sun-light changed to sunlight (the red sunlight). + +Page 137: where changed to were (our track, and were walking exactly). + +Page 137: hillside changed to hill-side (the hill-side above Majorca). + +Page 192: weatherwise changed to weather-wise. + +Page 194: Footnote 1 in original book, now Page 201: Footnote 14, +nscription changed to inscription (inscription "Captain Cook landed). + +Page 196: desposited changed to deposited (safely deposited). + +Page 230: ranche changed to ranches (some cattle ranches). + +Page 235: Janpanese changed to Japanese (Japanese jugglers). + +Page 235: indentical changed to identical (identical troupe). + +Page 235: Footnote 1 in original book, now Page 236: Footnote 16: +$2 50c changed to $2.50. + +Page 241: in changed to is (coast is about 2100 miles). + +Page 243: downpour changed to down-pour. + +Page 248: mid-day changed to midday. + +Page 287: (Chapter heading): The Fortes changed to The Forest. + +Page 303 (Index): Oaku changed to Oahu (Oahu Island, 222). + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Boy's Voyage Round the World, by +The Son of Samuel Smiles + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A BOY'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD *** + +***** This file should be named 24345.txt or 24345.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/4/3/4/24345/ + +Produced by Thierry Alberto, Diane Monico, and The Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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