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diff --git a/24345-h/24345-h.htm b/24345-h/24345-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..54206c1 --- /dev/null +++ b/24345-h/24345-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,11158 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of A Boy's Voyage Round the World, by Samuel Smiles. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + } /* page numbers */ + + .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%;} + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .caption {font-weight: bold;} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + .footnotes {border: dashed 1px;} + .footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + .footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} + .fnanchor {vertical-align: super; font-size: .8em; text-decoration: none;} + + .author {text-align: right; margin-right: 5%;} + + ul p { + margin-left: 2.5em; + margin-bottom: 0; + margin-top: 0; + text-indent: 0; + } + + ul.TOC { /* styling the Table of Contents */ + list-style-type: none; + position: relative; /* makes a "container" for span.tocright */ + margin-right: 10%; /* pulls the page#s in a skosh */ + margin-left: 10%; + font-variant: small-caps; + } + ul.TOC p { /* chapter description in the TOC */ + position: relative; /* makes a "container" for span.tocright */ + margin-right: 15%; + font-variant: normal; + } + ul.TOC li {margin-top: 1.5em;} + + span.tocright { /* use absolute positioning to move page# right */ + position: absolute; right: 0; + } + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Boy's Voyage Round the World, by +The Son of Samuel Smiles + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Boy's Voyage Round the World + +Author: The Son of Samuel Smiles + +Editor: Samuel Smiles + +Release Date: January 17, 2008 [EBook #24345] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A BOY'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD *** + + + + +Produced by Thierry Alberto, Diane Monico, and The Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + + + + +<h1> +A BOY'S VOYAGE<br /> +ROUND THE WORLD<br /><br /></h1> + + +<h2>EDITED<br /> +BY SAMUEL SMILES, LL.D.</h2> + +<h4>AUTHOR OF 'SELF-HELP,' ETC.<br /><br /><br /><br /></h4> + + +<h4>LONDON<br /> +JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET</h4> + +<h4>1905 +</h4> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p class="figcenter" style="width: 364px;"><a name="OUTWARD_BOUND" id="OUTWARD_BOUND"></a> +<img src="images/image001.jpg" width="364" height="560" alt="OUTWARD BOUND. See p. 27." title="OUTWARD BOUND. See p. 27." /> +<span class="caption">OUTWARD BOUND. See p. <a href="#Page_27">27</a>.</span> +</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE.</h2> + + +<p>I have had pleasure in editing this little book, not +only because it is the work of my youngest son, but +also because it contains the results of a good deal of +experience of life under novel aspects, as seen by +young, fresh, and observant eyes.</p> + +<p>How the book came to be written is as follows: +The boy, whose two years' narrative forms the subject +of these pages, was at the age of sixteen seized with +inflammation of the lungs, from which he was recovering +so slowly and unsatisfactorily, that I was advised +by London physicians to take him from the business +he was then learning in Yorkshire, and send him on +a long sea voyage. Australia was recommended, +because of the considerable time occupied in making +the voyage by sailing ship, and also because of the +comparatively genial and uniform temperature while +at sea.</p> + +<p>He was accordingly sent out to Melbourne by one +of Money Wigram's ships in the winter of 1868-9, +with directions either to return by the same ship or, +if the opportunity presented itself, to remain for a +time in the colony. It will be found, from his own +narrative that, having obtained some suitable employment, +he decided to adopt the latter course; and for a +period of about eighteen months he resided at Majorca, +an up-country township situated in the gold-mining +district of Victoria.</p> + +<p>When his health had become re-established, he was +directed to return home, about the beginning of the +present year; and he resolved to make the return +voyage by the Pacific route, <i>viâ</i> Honolulu and San +Francisco, and to proceed from thence by railway +across the Rocky Mountains to New York.</p> + +<p>While at sea, the boy kept a full log, intended for +the perusal of his relatives at home; and while on +land, he corresponded with them regularly and fully, +never missing a mail. He had not the remotest idea +that anything which he saw and described during his +absence would ever appear in a book. But since his +return, it has occurred to the Editor of these pages +that the information they contain will probably be +found interesting to a wider circle of readers than +that to which the letters were originally addressed; +and in that belief, the substance of them is here reproduced, +the Editor's work having consisted mainly in +arranging the materials, leaving the writer to tell his +own story as much as possible in his own way, and in +his own words.</p> + +<p class="author"> +S. S.<br /></p> +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;"><i>London</i>, <i>November</i>, 1871.</span><br /> +</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2> + + + + +<ul class="TOC"> +<li> <span class="tocright">PAGE</span></li> + +<li><b><big>CHAPTER I</big>.</b></li> +<li><b>DOWN CHANNEL.</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">At Gravesend</span>—<span class="smcap">Taking in Stores</span>—<span class="smcap">First Night on Board</span>—"<span class="smcap">The +Anchor's Up</span>"—<span class="smcap">Off Brighton</span>—<span class="smcap">Change of Wind</span>—<span class="smcap">Gale +in the Channel</span>—<span class="smcap">The Abandoned Ship</span>—<span class="smcap">The Eddystone</span>—<span class="smcap">Plymouth +Harbour</span>—<span class="smcap">Departure from England</span></p></li> + +<li><a name="CHAPTER_II_toc" id="CHAPTER_II_toc"></a><b><big>CHAPTER II.</big></b></li> +<li><b>FLYING SOUTH.</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_10">10</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">Fellow-Passengers</span>—<span class="smcap">Life on Board Ship</span>—<span class="smcap">Progress of the +Ship</span>—<span class="smcap">Her Handling</span>—<span class="smcap">A Fine Run Down to the Line</span>—<span class="smcap">Ship's +Amusements</span>—<span class="smcap">Climbing the Mizen</span>—<span class="smcap">The Cape de Verd +Islands</span>—<span class="smcap">San Antonio</span></p></li> + +<li><a name="CHAPTER_III_toc" id="CHAPTER_III_toc"></a><b><big>CHAPTER III.</big></b></li> +<li><b>WITHIN THE TROPICS.</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_22">22</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">Increase of Temperature</span>—<span class="smcap">Flying Fish</span>—<span class="smcap">The Morning Bath +on Board</span>—<span class="smcap">Paying "Footings"</span>—<span class="smcap">The Major's Wonderful +Stories</span>—<span class="smcap">St. Patrick's Day</span>—<span class="smcap">Grampuses</span>—<span class="smcap">A Ship in +Sight</span>—<span class="smcap">The 'Lord Raglan'</span>—<span class="smcap">Rain-fall in the Tropics</span>—<span class="smcap">Tropical +Sunsets</span>—<span class="smcap">The Yankee Whaler</span></p></li> + +<li><b><big>CHAPTER IV.</big></b></li> +<li><b>THE 'BLUE JACKET.</b>'<span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_32">32</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">April Fools' Day</span>—<span class="smcap">A Ship in Sight</span>—<span class="smcap">The 'Pyrmont'</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Rescued 'Blue Jacket' Passengers</span>—<span class="smcap">Story of the Burnt +Ship</span>—<span class="smcap">Suffering of the Lady Passengers in an Open Boat</span>—<span class="smcap">Their +Rescue</span>—<span class="smcap">Distressing Scene on Board the 'Pyrmont'</span></p></li> + +<li><b><big>CHAPTER V.</big></b></li> +<li><b>IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC.</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_41">41</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">Preparing for Rough Weather</span>—<span class="smcap">The 'George Thompson' +Clipper</span>—<span class="smcap">A Race at Sea</span>—<span class="smcap">Scene From 'Pickwick' Acted</span>—<span class="smcap">Fishing +for Albatross</span>—<span class="smcap">Dissection and Division of the +Bird</span>—<span class="smcap">Whales</span>—<span class="smcap">Strong Gale</span>—<span class="smcap">Smash in the Cabin</span>—<span class="smcap">Shipping +a Green Sea</span>—<span class="smcap">The Sea Birds in Our Wake</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Crozet Islands</span></p></li> + +<li><b><big>CHAPTER VI.</big></b></li> +<li><b>NEARING AUSTRALIA—THE LANDING.</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_54">54</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">Acting on Board</span>—<span class="smcap">The Cyclone</span>—<span class="smcap">Cleaning the Ship for Port</span>—<span class="smcap">Contrary +Winds</span>—<span class="smcap">Australia in Sight</span>—<span class="smcap">Cape Otway</span>—<span class="smcap">Port +Phillip Heads</span>—<span class="smcap">Pilot Taken on Board</span>—<span class="smcap">Inside the +Heads</span>—<span class="smcap">Williamstown</span>—<span class="smcap">Sandridge</span>—<span class="smcap">The Landing</span></p></li> + +<li><b><big>CHAPTER VII.</big></b></li> +<li><b>MELBOURNE.</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_60">60</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">First Impressions of Melbourne</span>—<span class="smcap">Survey of the City</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Streets</span>—<span class="smcap">Collins Street</span>—<span class="smcap">The Traffic</span>—<span class="smcap">Newness and +Youngness of Melbourne</span>—<span class="smcap">Absence of Beggars</span>—<span class="smcap">Melbourne +an English City</span>—<span class="smcap">The Chinese Quarter</span>—<span class="smcap">The Public Library</span>—<span class="smcap">Pentridge +Prison</span>—<span class="smcap">The Yarra River</span>—<span class="smcap">St. Kilda</span>—<span class="smcap">Social +Experiences in Melbourne</span>—<span class="smcap">A Marriage Ball</span>—<span class="smcap">Melbourne +Ladies</span>—<span class="smcap">Visit to a Serious Family</span></p></li> + +<li><b><big>CHAPTER VIII.</big></b></li> +<li><b>UP COUNTRY.</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_76">76</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">Obtain a Situation in an Up-country Bank</span>—<span class="smcap">Journey by Rail</span>—<span class="smcap">Castlemaine</span>—<span class="smcap">Further +Journey by Coach</span>—<span class="smcap">Maryborough</span>—<span class="smcap">First +Sight of the Bush</span>—<span class="smcap">The Bush Tracks</span>—<span class="smcap">Evening +Prospect over the Country</span>—<span class="smcap">Arrival at my Destination</span></p></li> + +<li><b><big>CHAPTER IX.</big></b></li> +<li><b>MAJORCA.</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_85">85</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">Majorca Founded in a Rush</span>—<span class="smcap">Description of a Rush</span>—<span class="smcap">Diggers +Camping Out</span>—<span class="smcap">Gold-mining at Majorca</span>—<span class="smcap">Majorca High +Street</span>—<span class="smcap">The People</span>—<span class="smcap">The Inns</span>—<span class="smcap">The Churches</span>—<span class="smcap">The Bank</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Chinamen</span>—<span class="smcap">Australia the Paradise of Working Men</span>—<span class="smcap">"Shouting" +for Drinks</span>—<span class="smcap">Absence of Beggars</span>—<span class="smcap">No Coppers +Up Country</span></p></li> + +<li><b><big>CHAPTER X.</big></b></li> +<li><b>MY NEIGHBOURHOOD AND NEIGHBOURS.</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_96">96</a></span></li> +<li><p>"<span class="smcap">Dining out</span>"—<span class="smcap">Diggers' Sunday Dinner</span>—<span class="smcap">The Old Workings</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Chinamen's Gardens</span>—<span class="smcap">Chinamen's Dwellings</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Cemetery</span>—<span class="smcap">The High Plains</span>—<span class="smcap">The Bush</span>—<span class="smcap">A Ride through +the Bush</span>—<span class="smcap">The Savoyard Woodcutter</span>—<span class="smcap">Visit to a Squatter</span></p></li> + +<li><b><big>CHAPTER XI.</big></b></li> +<li><b>AUSTRALIAN WINTER—THE FLOODS.</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_107">107</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">The Victorian Climate</span>—<span class="smcap">The Bush in Winter</span>—<span class="smcap">The Eucalyptus +or Australian Gum-tree</span>—<span class="smcap">Ball at Clunes</span>—<span class="smcap">Fire in +the Main Street</span>—<span class="smcap">The Buggy Saved</span>—<span class="smcap">Down-pour of Rain</span>—<span class="smcap">Going +Home by Water</span>—<span class="smcap">The Floods out</span>—<span class="smcap">Clunes Submerged</span>—<span class="smcap">Calamity +at Ballarat</span>—<span class="smcap">Damage done by the Flood</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Chinamen's Gardens Washed Away</span></p></li> + +<li><b><big>CHAPTER XII.</big></b></li> +<li><b>SPRING, SUMMER, AND HARVEST.</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_116">116</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">Spring Vegetation</span>—<span class="smcap">The Bush in Spring</span>—<span class="smcap">Garden Flowers</span>—<span class="smcap">An +Evening Walk</span>—<span class="smcap">Australian Moonlight</span>—<span class="smcap">The Hot North +Wind</span>—<span class="smcap">The Plague of Flies</span>—<span class="smcap">Bush Fires</span>—<span class="smcap">Summer at +Christmas</span>—<span class="smcap">Australian Fruits</span>—<span class="smcap">Ascent of Mount Greenock</span>—<span class="smcap">Australian +Wine</span>—<span class="smcap">Harvest</span>—<span class="smcap">A Squatter's Farm</span>—<span class="smcap">Harvest +Home Celebration</span>—<span class="smcap">Aurora Australis</span>—<span class="smcap">Autumn Rains</span></p></li> + +<li><a name="CHAPTER_XIII_toc" id="CHAPTER_XIII_toc"></a><b><big>CHAPTER XIII.</big></b></li> +<li><b>BUSH ANIMALS—BIRDS—SNAKES.</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_131">131</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">The 'Possum</span>—<span class="smcap">A Night's Sport in the Bush</span>—<span class="smcap">Musquitoes</span>—<span class="smcap">Wattle +Birds</span>—<span class="smcap">The Piping-Crow</span>—<span class="smcap">"Miners"</span>—<span class="smcap">Paroquet-hunting</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Southern Cross</span>—<span class="smcap">Snakes</span>—<span class="smcap">Marsupial Animals</span></p></li> + +<li><b><big>CHAPTER XIV.</big></b></li> +<li><b>GOLD-BUYING AND GOLD-MINING.</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_140">140</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">How the Gold is Found</span>—<span class="smcap">Gold-washing</span>—<span class="smcap">Quartz-crushing</span>—<span class="smcap">Buying +Gold from Chinamen</span>—<span class="smcap">Alluvial Companies</span>—<span class="smcap">Broken-down +Men</span>—<span class="smcap">Ups and Downs in Gold-mining</span>—<span class="smcap">Visit to a Gold +Mine</span>—<span class="smcap">Gold-seeking</span>—<span class="smcap">Diggers' Tales of Lucky Finds</span></p></li> + +<li><b><big>CHAPTER XV.</big></b></li> +<li><b>ROUGH LIFE AT THE DIGGINGS—"STOP THIEF!"</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_153">153</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">Gold-rushing</span>—<span class="smcap">Diggers' Camp at Havelock</span>—<span class="smcap">Murder of Lopez</span>—<span class="smcap">Pursuit +and Capture of the Murderer</span>—<span class="smcap">The Thieves +Hunted from the Camp</span>—<span class="smcap">Death of the Murderer</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Police</span>—<span class="smcap">Attempted Robbery of the Collingwood Bank</span>—<span class="smcap">Another +Supposed Robbery</span>—"<span class="smcap">Stop Thief!</span>"—<span class="smcap">Smart Use of +the Telegraph</span></p></li> + +<li><b><big>CHAPTER XVI.</big></b></li> +<li><b>PLACES ABOUT.</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_163">163</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">Visit to Ballarat</span>—<span class="smcap">The Journey by Coach</span>—<span class="smcap">Ballarat +Founded on Gold</span>—<span class="smcap">Description of the Town</span>—<span class="smcap">Ballarat +"Corner"</span>—<span class="smcap">The Speculative Cobbler</span>—<span class="smcap">Fire Brigades</span>—<span class="smcap">Return +Journey</span>—<span class="smcap">Crab-holes</span>—<span class="smcap">The Talbot Ball</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Talbot Fête</span>—<span class="smcap">The Avoca Races</span>—<span class="smcap">Sunrise in the Bush</span></p></li> + +<li><b><big>CHAPTER XVII.</big></b></li> +<li><b>CONCLUSION OF MAJORCAN LIFE.</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_179">179</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">Victorian Life English</span>—<span class="smcap">Arrival of the Home Mail</span>—<span class="smcap">News +of the Franco-German War</span>—<span class="smcap">The German Settlers in +Majorca</span>—<span class="smcap">The Single Frenchman</span>—<span class="smcap">Majorcan Public Teas</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Church</span>—<span class="smcap">The Ranters</span>—<span class="smcap">The Teetotallers</span>—<span class="smcap">The Common +School</span>—<span class="smcap">The Roman Catholics</span>—<span class="smcap">Common School Fête +and Entertainment</span>—<span class="smcap">The Mechanics' Institute</span>—<span class="smcap">Funeral +of the Town Clerk</span>—<span class="smcap">Departure from Majorca</span>—<span class="smcap">The Colony +of Victoria</span></p></li> + +<li><b><big>CHAPTER XVIII.</big></b></li> +<li><b>ROUND TO SYDNEY.</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_190">190</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">Last Christmas in Australia</span>—<span class="smcap">Start by Steamer for Sydney</span>—<span class="smcap">The +'Great Britain'</span>—<span class="smcap">Cheap Trips to Queenscliffe</span>—<span class="smcap">Rough +Weather at Sea</span>—<span class="smcap">Mr. and Mrs. C. Mathews</span>—<span class="smcap">Botany +Bay</span>—<span class="smcap">Outer South Head</span>—<span class="smcap">Port Jackson</span>—<span class="smcap">Sydney +Cove</span>—<span class="smcap">Description of Sydney</span>—<span class="smcap">Government House and +Domain</span>—<span class="smcap">Great Future Empire of the South</span></p></li> + +<li><b><big>CHAPTER XIX.</big></b></li> +<li><b>TO AUCKLAND, IN NEW ZEALAND.</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_202">202</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">Leaving Sydney</span>—<span class="smcap">Anchor within the Heads</span>—<span class="smcap">Take in Mails +and Passengers from the 'City of Adelaide'</span>—<span class="smcap">Out to Sea +Again</span>—<span class="smcap">Sight New Zealand</span>—<span class="smcap">Entrance to Auckland Harbour</span>—<span class="smcap">The +'Galatea'</span>—<span class="smcap">Description of Auckland</span>—<span class="smcap">Founding +of Auckland due to a Job</span>—<span class="smcap">Maori Men and Women</span>—<span class="smcap">Drive +to Onehunga</span>—<span class="smcap">Splendid View</span>—<span class="smcap">Auckland Gala</span>—<span class="smcap">New Zealand +Delays</span>—<span class="smcap">Leave for Honolulu</span></p></li> + +<li><b><big>CHAPTER XX.</big></b></li> +<li><b>UP THE PACIFIC.</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_212">212</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">Departure for Honolulu</span>—<span class="smcap">Monotony of a Voyage by Steam</span>—<span class="smcap">Désagrémens</span>—<span class="smcap">The +"Gentlemen" Passengers</span>—<span class="smcap">The One +Second Class "Lady"</span>—<span class="smcap">The Rats on Board</span>—<span class="smcap">The Smells</span>—<span class="smcap">Flying +Fish</span>—<span class="smcap">Cross the Line</span>—<span class="smcap">Treatment of Newspapers +on Board</span>—<span class="smcap">Hawaii in Sight</span>—<span class="smcap">Arrival at Honolulu</span></p></li> + +<li><b><big>CHAPTER XXI.</big></b></li> +<li><b>HONOLULU AND THE ISLAND OF OAHU.</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_220">220</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">The Harbour of Honolulu</span>—<span class="smcap">Importance of its Situation</span>—<span class="smcap">The +City</span>—<span class="smcap">Churches and Theatres</span>—<span class="smcap">The Post Office</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Suburbs</span>—<span class="smcap">The King's Palace</span>—<span class="smcap">The Nuuanu Valley</span>—<span class="smcap">Poi</span>—<span class="smcap">People +Coming down the Valley</span>—<span class="smcap">The Pali</span>—<span class="smcap">Prospect +from the Cliffs</span>—<span class="smcap">The Natives (Kanakas)</span>—<span class="smcap">Divers</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Women</span>—<span class="smcap">Drink Prohibition</span>—<span class="smcap">The Chinese</span>—<span class="smcap">Theatricals</span>—<span class="smcap">Musquitoes</span></p></li> + +<li><a name="CHAPTER_XXII_toc" id="CHAPTER_XXII_toc"></a><b><big>CHAPTER XXII.</big></b></li> +<li><b>HONOLULU TO SAN FRANCISCO.</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_237">237</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">Departure from Honolulu</span>—<span class="smcap">Wreck of the 'Saginaw'</span>—<span class="smcap">The +'Moses Taylor'</span>—<span class="smcap">The Accommodation</span>—<span class="smcap">The Company on +Board</span>—<span class="smcap">Behaviour of the Ship</span>—<span class="smcap">Death of a Passenger</span>—<span class="smcap">Feelings +on Landing in a New Place</span>—<span class="smcap">Approach the +Golden Gate</span>—<span class="smcap">Close of the Pacific Log</span>—<span class="smcap">First Sight of +America</span></p></li> + +<li><b><big>CHAPTER XXIII.</big></b></li> +<li><b>SAN FRANCISCO TO SACRAMENTO.</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_244">244</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">Landing at San Francisco</span>—<span class="smcap">The Golden City</span>—<span class="smcap">The Streets</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Business Quarter</span>—<span class="smcap">The Chinese Quarter</span>—<span class="smcap">The Touters</span>—<span class="smcap">Leave +San Francisco</span>—<span class="smcap">The Ferry-boat to Oakland</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Bay of San Francisco</span>—<span class="smcap">Landing on the Eastern Shore</span>—<span class="smcap">American +Railway Carriages</span>—<span class="smcap">The Pullman's Cars</span>—<span class="smcap">Sleeping +Berths</span>—<span class="smcap">Unsavoury Chinamen</span>—<span class="smcap">The Country</span>—<span class="smcap">City of +Sacramento</span></p></li> + +<li><b><big>CHAPTER XXIV.</big></b></li> +<li><b>ACROSS THE SIERRA NEVADA.</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_255">255</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">Rapid Ascent</span>—<span class="smcap">The Trestle-Bridges</span>—<span class="smcap">Mountain Prospects</span>—"<span class="smcap">Placers</span>"—<span class="smcap">Sunset</span>—<span class="smcap">Cape +Horn</span>—<span class="smcap">Alta</span>—<span class="smcap">The Sierras by +Night</span>—<span class="smcap">Contrast of Temperatures</span>—<span class="smcap">The Snow-Sheds</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Summit</span>—<span class="smcap">Reno</span>—<span class="smcap">Breakfast at Humboldt</span>—<span class="smcap">The Sage-Brush</span>—<span class="smcap">Battle +Mount</span>—<span class="smcap">Shoshonie Indians</span>—<span class="smcap">Ten Mile Cañon</span>—<span class="smcap">Elko +Station</span>—<span class="smcap">Great American Desert</span>—<span class="smcap">Arrival at +Ogden</span></p></li> + +<li><b><big>CHAPTER XXV.</big></b></li> +<li><b>ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_265">265</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">Start by Train for Omaha</span>—<span class="smcap">My Fellow-Passengers</span>—<span class="smcap">Passage +through the Devil's Gate</span>—<span class="smcap">Weber Cañon</span>—<span class="smcap">Fantastic Rocks</span>—"<span class="smcap">Thousand +Mile Tree</span>"—<span class="smcap">Echo Cañon</span>—<span class="smcap">More Trestle-Bridges</span>—<span class="smcap">Sunset +amidst the Bluffs</span>—<span class="smcap">A Wintry Night by +Rail</span>—<span class="smcap">Snow-Fences and Snow-Sheds</span>—<span class="smcap">Laramie City</span>—<span class="smcap">Red +Buttes</span>—<span class="smcap">The Summit at Sherman</span>—<span class="smcap">Cheyenne City</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Western Prairie in Winter</span>—<span class="smcap">Prairie Dog City</span>—<span class="smcap">The Valley +of the Platte</span>—<span class="smcap">Grand Island</span>—<span class="smcap">Cross the North Fork +of the Platte</span>—<span class="smcap">Arrival in Omaha</span></p></li> + +<li><b><big>CHAPTER XXVI.</big></b></li> +<li><b>OMAHA TO CHICAGO.</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_275">275</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">Omaha Terminus</span>—<span class="smcap">Cross the Missouri</span>—<span class="smcap">Council Bluffs</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Forest</span>—<span class="smcap">Cross the Mississippi</span>—<span class="smcap">The Cultivated Prairie</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Farmsteads and Villages</span>—<span class="smcap">Approach to Chicago</span>—<span class="smcap">The +City of Chicago</span>—<span class="smcap">Enterprise of its Men</span>—<span class="smcap">The Water Tunnels +under Lake Michigan</span>—<span class="smcap">Tunnels under the River +Chicago</span>—<span class="smcap">Union of Lake Michigan with the Mississippi</span>—<span class="smcap">Description +of the Streets and Buildings of Chicago</span>—<span class="smcap">Pigs +and Corn</span>—<span class="smcap">The Avenue</span>—<span class="smcap">Sleighing</span>—<span class="smcap">Theatres and Churches</span></p></li> + +<li><a name="CHAPTER_XXVII_toc" id="CHAPTER_XXVII_toc"></a><b><big>CHAPTER XXVII.</big></b><br /></li> +<li><b>CHICAGO TO NEW YORK.</b><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_287">287</a></span></li> +<li><p><span class="smcap">Leave Chicago</span>—<span class="smcap">The Ice Harvest</span>—<span class="smcap">Michigan City</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Forest</span>—<span class="smcap">A Railway Smashed</span>—<span class="smcap">Kalamazoo</span>—<span class="smcap">Detroit</span>—<span class="smcap">Crossing +into Canada</span>—<span class="smcap">American Manners</span>—<span class="smcap">Roebling's Suspension +Bridge</span>—<span class="smcap">Niagara Falls in Winter</span>—<span class="smcap">Goat Island</span>—<span class="smcap">The +American Fall</span>—<span class="smcap">The Great Horse-shoe Fall</span>—<span class="smcap">The Rapids +from the Lovers' Seat</span>—<span class="smcap">American Cousins</span>—<span class="smcap">Rochester</span>—<span class="smcap">New +York</span>—<span class="smcap">A Catastrophe</span>—<span class="smcap">Return Home</span></p></li> + +<li><span class="smcap"><b>Index</b></span><span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_301">301</a></span></li> +</ul> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> + + +<ul class="TOC"> +<li>The 'Yorkshire,' Outward Bound<span class="tocright"><i><a href="#OUTWARD_BOUND">Frontispiece</a></i></span><br /></li> + +<li>Map of the Ship's Course, Plymouth to Melbourne<span class="tocright"><i>Page</i> <a href="#Page_50">50-51</a></span><br /></li> + +<li>View of Melbourne, Victoria<span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_60">60</a></span><br /></li> + +<li>Map of the Gold-Mining District, Victoria<span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_78">78</a></span><br /></li> + +<li>View of Sydney, Port Jackson<span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_190">190</a></span><br /></li> + +<li>View of Auckland, New Zealand<span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_202">202</a></span><br /></li> + +<li>Map of the Ship's Course up the Pacific<span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_213">213</a></span><br /></li> + +<li>Maps of Auckland, and Sydney, Port Jackson<span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_213">213</a></span><br /></li> + +<li>View of Honolulu, Sandwich Islands<span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_220">220</a></span><br /></li> + +<li>Map of Oahu, Sandwich Islands<span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_222">222</a></span><br /></li> + +<li>Maps of Atlantic and Pacific Railways<span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_248">248</a>-<a href="#Page_249">249</a>; <a href="#Page_276">276</a>-<a href="#Page_277">277</a></span><br /></li> + +<li>View of Niagara Falls—American side<span class="tocright"><a href="#Page_287">287</a></span><br /></li> +</ul> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> +<h1><a name="ROUND_THE_WORLD" id="ROUND_THE_WORLD"></a>ROUND THE WORLD.</h1> + +<h2>CHAPTER I.</h2> + +<h3>DOWN CHANNEL.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">At Gravesend</span>—<span class="smcap">Taking in Stores</span>—<span class="smcap">First Night on Board</span>—"<span class="smcap">The +Anchor's Up</span>"—<span class="smcap">Off Brighton</span>—<span class="smcap">Change of Wind</span>—<span class="smcap">Gale in +the Channel</span>—<span class="smcap">The Abandoned Ship</span>—<span class="smcap">The Eddystone</span>—<span class="smcap">Plymouth +Harbour</span>—<span class="smcap">Departure from England</span>.</p> + + +<p><i>20th February: At Gravesend.</i>—My last farewells are +over, my last adieus are waved to friends on shore, and +I am alone on board the ship 'Yorkshire,' bound for +Melbourne. Everything is in confusion on board. The +decks are littered with stores, vegetables, hen-coops, +sheep-pens, and coils of rope. There is quite a little +crowd of sailors round the capstan in front of the cabin +door. Two officers, with lists before them, are calling +over the names of men engaged to make up our +complement of hands, and appointing them to their +different watches.</p> + +<p>Though the ship is advertised to sail this evening, +the stores are by no means complete. The steward is +getting in lots of cases; and what a quantity of pickles! +Hens are coming up to fill the hen-coops. More sheep +are being brought; there are many on board already; +and here comes our milk-cow over the ship's side, gently +hoisted up by a rope. The animal seems amazed; but<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span> +she is in skilful hands. "Let go!" calls out the boatswain, +as the cow swings in mid-air; away rattles the +chain round the wheel of the donkey-engine, and the +break is put on just in time to land Molly gently on +the deck. In a minute she is snug in her stall +"for'ard," just by the cook's galley.</p> + +<p>Passengers are coming on board. Here is one +mounting the ship's side, who has had a wet passage +from the shore. A seaman lends him a hand, and he +reaches the sloppy, slippery deck with difficulty.</p> + +<p>It is a dismal day. The sleet and rain come driving +down. Everything is raw and cold; everybody wet or +damp. The passengers in wet mackintoshes, and the +seamen in wet tarpaulins; Gravesend, with its dirty +side to the river, and its dreary mud-bank exposed to +sight; the alternate drizzle and down-pour; the muddle +and confusion of the deck;—all this presented anything +but an agreeable picture to look at. So I +speedily leave the deck, in order to make a better +acquaintance with what is to be my home for the +next three months.</p> + +<p>First, there is the saloon—long and narrow—surrounded +by the cabins. It is our dining-room, drawing-room, +and parlour, all in one. A long table occupies +the centre, fitted all round with fixed seats and reversible +backs. At one end of the table is the captain's +chair, over which hangs a clock and a barometer. +Near the after end of the saloon is the mizen-mast, +which passes through into the hole below, and rests +on the keelson.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span></p> + +<p>The cabins, which surround the saloon, are separated +from it by open woodwork, for purposes of ventilation. +The entrances to them from the saloon are by +sliding doors. They are separated from each other +by folding-doors, kept bolted on either side when one +cabin only is occupied; but these can be opened when +the neighbours on both sides are agreeable.</p> + +<p>My own little cabin is by no means dreary or uninviting. +A window, with six small panes, lets in light +and air; and outside is a strong board, or "dead-light," +for use in rough weather, to protect the glass. My +bunk, next to the saloon, is covered with a clean white +counterpane. A little wash-stand occupies the corner; +a shelf of favourite books is over my bed-head; and a +swing-lamp by its side. Then there is my little mirror, +my swing-tray for bottles, and a series of little bags +suspended from nails, containing all sorts of odds and +ends. In short, my little chamber, so fitted up, looks +quite cheerful and even jolly.</p> + +<p>It grows dusk, and there is still the same bustle +and turmoil on deck. All are busy; everybody is in a +hurry. At about nine the noise seems to subside; and +the deck seems getting into something like order. As +we are not to weigh anchor until five in the morning, +some of the passengers land for a stroll on shore. I +decide to go to bed.</p> + +<p>And now begins my first difficulty. I cannot find +room to extend myself, or even to turn. I am literally +"cribbed, cabined, and confined." Then there are the +unfamiliar noises outside,—the cackling of the ducks,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span> +the baa-ing of the sheep, the grunting of the pigs,—possibly +discussing the novelty of their position. And, +nearly all through the night, just outside my cabin, +two or three of the seamen sit talking together in +gruff undertones.</p> + +<p>I don't think I slept much during my first night on +board. I was lying semi-conscious, when a loud voice +outside woke me up in an instant—"The anchor's up! +she's away!" I jumped up, and, looking out of my +little cabin window, peered out into the grey dawn. +The shores seemed moving, and we were off! I dressed +at once, and went on deck. But how raw and chill +it felt as I went up the companion-ladder. A little +steam-tug ahead of us was under weigh, with the +'Yorkshire' in tow. The deck was now pretty well +cleared, but white with frost; while the river banks +were covered with snow.</p> + +<p>Other ships were passing down stream, each with its +tug; but we soon distanced them all, especially when +the men flung the sails to the wind, now blowing fresh. +At length, in about three-quarters of an hour, the +steamer took on board her tow-rope, and left us to +proceed on our voyage with a fair light breeze in our +favour, and all our canvas set.</p> + +<p>When off the Nore, we hailed the 'Norfolk,' homeward +bound—a fast clipper ship belonging to the same +firm (Money Wigram's line),—and a truly grand sight +she was under full sail. There were great cheerings +and wavings of hats,—she passing up the river and +we out to sea.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span></p> + +<p>I need not detain you with a description of my +voyage down Channel. We passed in succession Margate, +Ramsgate, and Deal. The wind kept favourable +until we sighted Beachy Head, about half-past five in +the evening, and then it nearly died away. We were +off Brighton when the moon rose. The long stretch +of lights along shore, the clear star-lit sky, the bright +moon, the ship gently rocking in the almost calm sea, +the sails idly flapping against the mast,—formed a +picture of quiet during my first night at sea, which I +shall not soon forget.</p> + +<p>But all this, I was told, was but "weather-breeding;" +and it was predicted that we were to have a change. +The glass was falling and we were to look out for +squalls. Nor were the squalls long in coming. Early +next morning I was roused by the noise on deck and +the rolling of things about my cabin floor. I had some +difficulty in dressing, not having yet found my sea +legs; but I succeeded in gaining the companion-ladder +and reaching the poop.</p> + +<p>I found the wind had gone quite round in the night, +and was now blowing hard in our teeth, from the south-west. +It was to be a case of tacking down Channel,—a +slow and, for landsmen, a very trying process. In +the midst of my first <i>mal de mer</i>, I was amused by the +appearance on board of one of my fellow-passengers. +He was a small, a very small individual, but possessed +of a large stock of clothes, which he was evidently +glad to have an opportunity of exhibiting. He first +came up with a souwester on his head, the wrong end<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> +foremost, and a pair of canvas shoes on his feet,—a +sort of miniature Micawber, or first-class cockney +"salt," about to breast the briny. This small person's +long nose, large ears, and open mouth added to the +ludicrousness of his appearance. As the decks were +wet and the morning cold, he found the garb somewhat +unsuitable, and dived below, to come up again in strong +boots and a straw hat. But after further consideration, +he retired again, and again he appeared in fresh headgear—a +huge seal-skin cap with lappets coming down +over his ears. This important and dressy little individual +was a source of considerable amusement to us; +and there was scarcely an article in his wardrobe that +had not its turn during the day.</p> + +<p>All night it blew a gale; the wind still from the +same quarter. We kept tacking between the coast of +England and the opposite coast of France, making but +small way as regards mileage,—the wind being right +in our teeth. During the night, each time that the +ship was brought round on the other tack, there was +usually a tremendous lurch; and sometimes an avalanche +of books descended upon me from the shelf +overhead. Yet I slept pretty soundly. Once I was +awakened by a tremendous noise outside—something +like a gun going off. I afterwards found it had been +occasioned by the mainsail being blown away to sea, +right out of the bolt-ropes, the fastenings of which +were immediately outside my cabin window.</p> + +<p>When I went on deck the wind was still blowing +hard, and one had to hold on to ropes or cleats to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> +be able to stand. The whole sea was alive, waves +chasing waves and bounding over each other, crested +with foam. Now and then the ship would pitch her +prow into a wave, even to the bulwarks, dash the billow +aside, and buoyantly rise again, bowling along, though +under moderate sail, because of the force of the gale.</p> + +<p>The sea has some sad sights, of which one shortly +presented itself. About midday the captain sighted a +vessel at some distance off on our weather bow, flying +a flag of distress—an ensign upside down. Our ship +was put about, and as we neared the vessel we found she +had been abandoned, and was settling fast in the water. +Two or three of her sails were still set, torn to shreds +by the storm. The bulwarks were pretty much gone, +and here and there the bare stanchions, or posts, were +left standing, splitting in two the waves which broke +clear over her deck, lying almost even with the sea. +She turned out to be the 'Rosa,' of Guernsey, a fine +barque of 700 tons, and she had been caught and disabled +by the storm we had ourselves encountered. As +there did not seem to be a living thing on board, and +we could be of no use, we sailed away; and she must +have gone down shortly after we left her. Not far +from the sinking ship we came across a boat bottom +upwards, most probably belonging to the abandoned +ship. What of the poor seamen? Have they been +saved by other boats, or been taken off by some +passing vessel? If not, alas for their wives and +children at home! Indeed it was a sad sight.</p> + +<p>But such things are soon forgotten at sea. We are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> +too much occupied by our own experiences to think +much of others. For two more weary days we went +tacking about, the wind somewhat abating. Sometimes +we caught sight of the French coast through the mist; +and then we tacked back again. At length Eddystone +light came in view, and we knew we were not far from +the entrance to Plymouth Sound. Once inside the +Breakwater, we felt ourselves in smooth water again.</p> + +<p>Going upon deck in the morning, I found our ship +anchored in the harbour nearly opposite Mount Edgcumbe. +Nothing could be more lovely than the sight +that presented itself. The noble bay, surrounded by +rocks, cliffs, cottages—Drake's Island, bristling with +cannon, leaving open a glimpse into the Hamoaze +studded with great hulks of old war-ships—the projecting +points of Mount Edgcumbe Park, carpeted +with green turf down to the water and fringed behind +by noble woods, looking like masses of emerald cut into +fret-work—then, in the distance, the hills of Dartmoor, +variegated with many hues, and swept with alternations +of light and shade—all these presented a picture, the +like of which I had never before seen and feel myself +quite incompetent to describe.</p> + +<p>As we had to wait here for a fair wind, and the gale +was still blowing right into the harbour's mouth, there +seemed no probability of our setting sail very soon. +We had, moreover, to make up our complement of +passengers, and provisions. Those who had a mind +accordingly went on shore, strolled through the town, +and visited the Hoe, from which a magnificent view of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> +the harbour is obtained, or varied their bill of fare by +dining at an hotel.</p> + +<p>We were, however, cautioned not to sleep on shore, +but to return to the ship for the night, and even during +the day to keep a sharp look-out for the wind; for, +immediately on a change to the nor'ard, no time would +be lost in putting out to sea. We were further informed +that, in the case of nearly every ship, passengers, +through their own carelessness and dilly-dallying on +shore, had been left behind. I determined, therefore, +to stick to the ship.</p> + +<p>After three days' weary waiting, the wind at last went +round; the anchor was weighed with a willing "Yo! +heave ho!" and in a few hours, favoured by a fine light +breeze, we were well out to sea, and the brown cliffs of +Old England gradually faded away in the distance.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2> + + +<h3>FLYING SOUTH.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Fellow-Passengers</span>—<span class="smcap">Life on Board Ship</span>—<span class="smcap">Progress of the Ship</span>—<span class="smcap">Her +Handling</span>—<span class="smcap">A Fine Run Down to the Line</span>—<span class="smcap">Ship's +Amusements</span>—<span class="smcap">Climbing the Mizen</span>—<span class="smcap">The Cape De Verd Islands</span>—<span class="smcap">San +Antonio</span>.</p> + + +<p><i>3rd March</i>.—Like all passengers, I suppose, who come +together on board ship for a long voyage, we had scarcely +passed the Eddystone Lighthouse before we began to +take stock of each other. Who is this? What is he? +Why is he going out? Such were the questions we +inwardly put to ourselves and sought to answer.</p> + +<p>I found several, like myself, were making the voyage +for their health. A long voyage by sailing ship seems +to have become a favourite prescription for lung complaints; +and it is doubtless an honest one, as the doctor +who gives it at the same time parts with his patient +and his fees. But the advice is sound; as the long +rest of the voyage, the comparatively equable temperature +of the sea air, and probably the improved +quality of the atmosphere inhaled, are all favourable +to the healthy condition of the lungs as well as of the +general system.</p> + +<p>Of those going out in search of health, some were +young and others middle-aged. Amongst the latter<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> +was a patient, gentle sufferer, racked by a hacking +cough when he came on board. Another, a young +passenger, had been afflicted by abscess in his throat +and incipient lung-disease. A third had been worried +by business and afflicted in his brain, and needed a +long rest. A fourth had been crossed in love, and +sought for change of scene and occupation.</p> + +<p>But there were others full of life and health among +the passengers, going out in search of fortune or of +pleasure. Two stalwart, outspoken, manly fellows, who +came on board at Plymouth, were on their way to New +Zealand to farm a large tract of land. They seemed +to me to be models of what colonial farmers should be. +Another was on his way to take up a run in Victoria, +some 250 miles north of Melbourne. He had three fine +Scotch colley dogs with him, which were the subject of +general admiration.</p> + +<p>We had also a young volunteer on board, who had +figured at Brighton reviews, and was now on his way to +join his father in New Zealand, where he proposed to +join the colonial army. We had also a Yankee gentleman, +about to enter on his governorship of the Guano +Island of Maldon, in the Pacific, situated almost due +north of the Society Islands, said to have been purchased +by an English company.</p> + +<p>Some were going out on "spec." If they could find +an opening to fortune, they would settle; if not, they +would return. One gentleman was taking with him a +fine portable photographic apparatus, intending to visit +New Zealand and Tasmania, as well as Australia.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span></p> + +<p>Others were going out for indefinite purposes. The +small gentleman, for instance, who came on board at +Gravesend with the extensive wardrobe, was said to +be going out to Australia to grow,—the atmosphere +and climate of the country being reported as having a +wonderful effect on growth. Another entertained me +with a long account of how he was leaving England +because of his wife; but, as he was of a somewhat +priggish nature, I suspect the fault may have been his +own as much as hers.</p> + + +<p>And then there was the Major, a military and distinguished-looking +gentleman, who came on board, accompanied +by a couple of shiny new trunks, at Plymouth. +He himself threw out the suggestion that the raising +of a colonial volunteer army was the grand object of +his mission. Anyhow, he had the manners of a gentleman. +And he had seen service, having lost his right +arm in the Crimea and gone all through the Indian +Mutiny war with his left. He was full of fun, always +in spirits, and a very jolly fellow, though rather given +to saying things that would have been better left +unsaid.</p> + +<p>Altogether, we have seventeen saloon passengers on +board, including the captain's wife, the only lady at +the poop end. There were also probably about eighty +second and third-class passengers in the forward parts +of the ship.</p> + +<p>Although the wind was fair, and the weather fine, +most of the passengers suffered more or less from seasickness; +but at length, becoming accustomed to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> +motion of the ship, they gradually emerged from their +cabins, came on deck, and took part in the daily life +on board. Let me try and give a slight idea of what +this is.</p> + +<p>At about six every morning we are roused by the +sailors holystoning the decks, under the superintendence +of the officer of the watch. A couple of middies +pump up water from the sea, by means of a pump +placed just behind the wheel. It fills the tub until it +overflows, running along the scuppers of the poop, and +out on to the main-deck through a pipe. Here the +seamen fill their buckets, and proceed with the scouring +of the main-deck. Such a scrubbing and mopping!</p> + +<p>I need scarcely explain that holystone is a large soft +stone, used with water, for scrubbing the dirt off the +ship's decks. It rubs down with sand; the sand is +washed off by buckets of water thrown down, all is +well mopped, and the deck is then finished off with +India-rubber squilgees.</p> + +<p>The poop is always kept most bright and clean. +Soon after we left port it assumed a greatly-improved +appearance. The boards began to whiten with the +holystoning. Not a grease-mark or spot of dirt was to +be seen. All was polished off with hand-scrapers. On +Sundays the ropes on the poop were all neatly coiled, +man-of-war fashion—not a bight out of place. The +brasswork was kept as bright as a gilt button.</p> + +<p>By the time the passengers dressed and went on +deck the cleaning process was over, and the decks were +dry. After half an hour's pacing the poop the bell<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> +would ring for breakfast, the appetite for which would +depend very much upon the state of the weather and +the lurching of the ship. Between breakfast and lunch, +more promenading on the poop; the passengers sometimes, +if the weather was fine, forming themselves in +groups on deck, cultivating each other's acquaintance.</p> + +<p>During our first days at sea we had some difficulty +in finding our sea legs. The march of some up and +down the poop was often very irregular, and occasionally +ended in disaster. Yet the passengers were +not the only learners; for, one day, we saw one of the +cabin-boys, carrying a heavy ham down the steps from +a meat-safe on board, miss his footing in a lurch of the +ship, and away went our fine ham into the lee-scuppers, +spoilt and lost.</p> + +<p>We lunched at twelve. From thence, until dinner +at five, we mooned about on deck as before, or visited +sick passengers, or read in our respective cabins, or +passed the time in conversation; and thus the day +wore on. After dinner the passengers drew together +in parties and became social. In the pleasantly-lit +saloon some of the elder subsided into whist, while +the juniors sought the middies in their cabin on the +main-deck, next door to the sheep-pen; there they +entertained themselves and each other with songs, +accompanied by the concertina and clouds of tobacco-smoke.</p> + +<p>The progress of the ship was a subject of constant +interest. It was the first thing in the morning and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> +the last at night; and all through the day, the direction +of the wind, the state of the sky and the weather, +and the rate we were going at, were the uppermost +topics of conversation.</p> + +<p>When we left port the wind was blowing fresh on +our larboard quarter from the north-east, and we made +good progress across the Bay of Biscay; but, like many +of our passengers, I was too much occupied by private +affairs to attend to the nautical business going on upon +deck. All I know was, that the wind was fair, and that +we were going at a good rate. On the fourth day, I +found we were in the latitude of Cape Finisterre, and +that we had run 168 miles in the preceding 24 hours. +From this time forward, having got accustomed to +the motion of the ship, I felt sufficiently well to be +on deck early and late, watching the handling of the +ship.</p> + +<p>It was a fine sight to look up at the cloud of canvas +above, bellied out by the wind, like the wings of a +gigantic bird, while the ship bounded through the +water, dashing it in foam from her bows, and sometimes +dipping her prow into the waves, and sending +aloft a shower of spray.</p> + +<p>There was always something new to admire in the +ship, and the way in which she was handled: as, for +instance, to see the topgallant sails hauled down when +the wind freshened, or a staysail set as the wind went +round to the east. The taking in of the mainsail on a +stormy night was a thing to be remembered for life: +twenty-four men on the great yard at a time, clewing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> +it in to the music of the wind whistling through the +rigging. The men sing out cheerily at their work, +the one who mounts the highest, or stands the foremost +on the deck; usually taking the lead—</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Hawl on the bowlin,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 3em;">The jolly ship's a-rollin—</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Hawl on the bowlin,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 3em;">And we'll all drink rum.</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>In comes the rope with a "Yo! heave ho!" and a jerk, +until the "belay" sung out by the mate signifies that +the work is done. Then, there is the scrambling on +the deck when the wind changes quarter, and the yards +want squaring as the wind blows more aft. Such are +among the interesting sights to be seen on deck when +the wind is in her tantrums at sea.</p> + +<p>On the fifth day the wind was blowing quite aft. Our +run during the twenty-four hours was 172 miles. Thermometer +58°. The captain is in hopes of a most +favourable run to the Cape. It is our first Sunday on +board, and at 10.30 the bell rings for service, when the +passengers of all classes assemble in the saloon. The +alternate standing and kneeling during the service is +rather uncomfortable, the fixed seats jamming the legs, +and the body leaning over at an unpleasant angle +when the ship rolls, which she frequently does, and +rather savagely.</p> + +<p>Going upon deck next morning, I found the wind +blowing strong from the north, and the ship going +through the water at a splendid pace. As much sail +was on as she could carry, and she dashed along, leaving<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> +a broad track of foam in her wake. The captain is in +high glee at the speed at which we are going. "A fine +run down to the Line!" he says, as he walks the poop, +smiling and rubbing his hands; while the middies are +enthusiastic in praises of the good ship, "walking the +waters like a thing of life." The spirits of all on board +are raised by several degrees. We have the pleasure of +feeling ourselves bounding forward, on towards the +sunny south. There is no resting, but a constant +pressing onward, and, as we look over the bulwarks, +the waves, tipped by the foam which our ship has +raised, seem to fly behind us at a prodigious speed. +At midday we find the ship's run during the twenty-four +hours has been 280 miles—a splendid day's work, +almost equal to steam!</p> + +<p>We are now in latitude 39° 16', about due east of +the Azores. The air is mild and warm; the sky is +azure, and the sea intensely blue. How different from +the weather in the English Channel only a short week +ago! Bugs are now discarded, and winter clothing +begins to feel almost oppressive. In the evenings, as +we hang over the taffrail, we watch with interest the +bluish-white sparks mingling with the light blue foam +near the stern—the first indications of that phosphorescence +which, I am told, we shall find so bright +in the tropics.</p> + +<p>An always interesting event at sea is the sighting of +a distant ship. To-day we signalled the 'Maitland,' +of London, a fine ship, though she was rolling a great +deal, beating up against the wind that was impelling<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> +us so prosperously forward. I hope she will report us +on arrival, to let friends at home know we are so far +all right on our voyage.</p> + +<p>The wind still continues to blow in our wake, but +not so strongly; yet we make good progress. The +weather keeps very fine. The sky seems to get clearer, +the sea bluer, and the weather more brilliant, and even +the sails look whiter, as we fly south. About midday +on the eighth day after leaving Plymouth we are in +the latitude of Madeira, which we pass about forty +miles distant.</p> + +<p>As the wind subsides, and the novelty of being on +shipboard wears off, the passengers begin to think of +amusements. One cannot be always reading; and, as +for study, though I try Spanish and French alternately, +I cannot settle to them, and begin to think that life on +shipboard is not very favourable for study. We play +at quoits—using quoits of rope—on the poop, for a good +part of the day. But this soon becomes monotonous; +and we begin to consider whether it may not be possible +to get up some entertainment on board to make the +time pass pleasantly. We had a few extempore concerts +in one of the middies' berths. The third-class +passengers got up a miscellaneous entertainment, including +recitals, which went off very well. One of the +tragic recitations was so well received that it was +encored. And thus the time was whiled away, while +we still kept flying south.</p> + +<p>On the ninth day we are well south of Madeira. +The sun is so warm at midday that an awning is hung<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> +over the deck, and the shade it affords is very grateful. +We are now in the trade-winds, which blow pretty +steadily at this part of our course in a south-westerly +direction, and may generally be depended upon until +we near the Equator. At midday of the tenth day I +find we have run 180 miles in the last twenty-four +hours, with the wind still steady on our quarter. We +have passed Teneriffe, about 130 miles distant—too +remote to see it—though I am told that, had we been +twenty miles nearer, we should probably have seen +the famous peak.</p> + +<p>To while away the time, and by way of a little +adventure, I determined at night to climb the mizen-mast +with a fellow-passenger. While leaving the deck +I was chalked by a middy, in token that I was in for +my footing, so as to be free of the mizen-top. I succeeded +in reaching it safely, though to a green hand, +as I was, it looks and really feels somewhat perilous at +first. I was sensible of the feeling of fear or apprehension +just at the moment of getting over the cross-trees. +Your body hangs over in mid-air, at a terrible incline +backwards, and you have to hold on like anything for +just one moment, until you get your knee up into the +top. The view of the ship under press of canvas from +the mizen-top is very grand; and the phosphorescence +in our wake, billow upon billow of light shining foam, +seemed more brilliant than ever.</p> + +<p>The wind again freshens, and on the eleventh day we +make another fine run of 230 miles. It is becoming +rapidly warmer, and we shall soon be in the region of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> +bonitos, albatrosses, and flying fish—only a fortnight +after leaving England!</p> + +<p>Our second Sunday at sea was beautiful exceedingly. +We had service in the saloon as usual; and, after +church, I climbed the mizen, and had half an hour's +nap on the top. Truly this warm weather, and monotonous +sea life, seems very favourable for dreaming, and +mooning, and loafing. In the evening there was some +very good hymn-singing in the second-class cabin.</p> + +<p>Early next morning, when pacing the poop, we were +startled by the cry from the man on the forecastle of +"Land ho!" I found, by the direction of the captain's +eyes, that the land seen lay off our weather-beam. +But, though I strained my eyes looking for the land, I +could see nothing. It was not for hours that I could +detect it; and then it looked more like a cloud than +anything else. At length the veil lifted, and I saw the +land stretching away to the eastward. It was the island +of San Antonio, one of the Cape de Verds.</p> + +<p>As we neared the land, and saw it more distinctly, +it looked a grand object. Though we were then some +fifteen miles off, yet the highest peaks, which were +above the clouds, some thousands of feet high, were so +clear and so beautiful that they looked as if they had +been stolen out of the 'Arabian Nights,' or some fairy +tale of wonder and beauty.</p> + +<p>The island is said to be alike famous for its oranges +and pretty girls. Indeed the Major, who is very good +at drawing the long bow, declared that he could see a +very interesting female waving her hand to him from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> +a rock! With the help of the telescope we could +certainly see some of the houses on shore.</p> + +<p>As this is the last land we are likely to see until +we reach Australia, we regard it with all the greater +interest; and I myself watched it in the twilight until +it faded away into a blue mist on the horizon.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2> + +<h3>WITHIN THE TROPICS.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Increase of Temperature</span>—<span class="smcap">Flying Fish</span>—<span class="smcap">The Morning Bath on +Board</span>—<span class="smcap">Paying "Footings"</span>—<span class="smcap">The Major's Wonderful Stories</span>—<span class="smcap">St. +Patrick's Day</span>—<span class="smcap">Grampuses</span>—<span class="smcap">A Ship in Sight</span>—<span class="smcap">The 'Lord +Raglan'</span>—<span class="smcap">Rain-fall in the Tropics</span>—<span class="smcap">Tropical Sunsets</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Yankee Whaler</span>.</p> + + +<p><i>17th March</i>.—We are now fairly within the tropics. +The heat increases day by day. This morning, at +eight, the temperature was 87° in my cabin. At midday, +with the sun nearly overhead, it is really hot. +The sky is of a cloudless azure, with a hazy appearance +towards the horizon. The sea is blue, dark, deep blue—and +calm.</p> + +<p>Now we see plenty of flying-fish. Whole shoals of +the glittering little things glide along in the air, skimming +the tops of the waves. They rise to escape their +pursuers, the bonitos, which rush after them, showing +their noses above the water now and then. But the +poor flying-fish have their enemies above the waters +as well as under them; for they no sooner rise than +they risk becoming the prey of the ocean birds, which +are always hovering about and ready to pounce upon +them. It is a case of "out of the frying-pan into the +fire." They fly further than I thought they could. I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> +saw one of them to-day fly at least sixty yards, and +sometimes they mount so high as to reach the poop, +some fifteen feet from the surface of the water.</p> + +<p>One of the most pleasant events of the day is the +morning bath on board. You must remember the +latitude we are in. We are passing along, though not +in sight of, that part of the African coast where a +necklace is considered full dress. We sympathise +with the natives, for we find clothes becoming intolerable; +hence our enjoyment of the morning bath, +which consists in getting into a large tub on board +and being pumped upon by the hose. Pity that one +cannot have it later, as it leaves such a long interval +between bath and breakfast; but it freshens one up +wonderfully, and is an extremely pleasant operation. I +only wish that the tub were twenty times as large, +and the hose twice as strong.</p> + +<p>The wind continues in our favour, though gradually +subsiding. During the last two days we have run over +200 miles each day; but the captain says that by the +time we reach the Line the wind will have completely +died away. To catch a little of the breeze, I go up the +rigging to the top. Two sailors came up mysteriously, +one on each side of the ratlines. They are terrible +fellows for making one pay "footings," and their object +was to intercept my retreat downwards. When they +reached me, I tried to resist; but it was of no use. I +must be tied to the rigging unless I promised the customary +bottle of rum; so I gave in with a good grace, +and was thenceforward free to take an airing aloft.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span></p> + +<p>The amusements on deck do not vary much. Quoits, +cards, reading, and talking, and sometimes a game of +romps, such as "Walk, my lady, walk!" We have +tried to form a committee, with a view to getting up +some Penny Reading or theatrical entertainment, and +to ascertain whether there be any latent talent aboard; +but the heat occasions such a languor as to be very +unfavourable for work, and the committee lay upon +their oars, doing nothing.</p> + +<p>One of our principal sources of amusement is the +Major. He is unfailing. His drawings of the long bow +are as good as a theatrical entertainment. If any one +tells a story of something wonderful, he at once "caps +it," as they say in Yorkshire, by something still more +wonderful. One of the passengers, who had been at +Calcutta, speaking of the heat there, said it was so +great as to make the pitch run out of the ship's sides. +"Bah!" said the Major, "that is nothing to what it is +in Ceylon; there the heat is so great as to melt the +soldiers' buttons off on parade, and then their jackets +all get loose."</p> + +<p>It seems that to-day (the 17th) is St. Patrick's Day. +This the Major, who is an Irishman, discovered only +late in the evening, when he declared he would have +"given a fiver" if he had only known it in the morning. +But, to make up for lost time, he called out forthwith, +"Steward! whisky!" and he disposed of some seven +or eight glasses in the saloon before the lamps were +put out; after which he adjourned to one of the cabins, +and there continued the celebration of St. Patrick's<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> +Day until about two o'clock in the morning. On getting +up rather late, he said to himself, loud enough for me +to overhear in my cabin, "Well, George, my boy, +you've done your duty to St. Patrick; but he's left +you a horrible bad headache!" And no wonder.</p> + +<p>At last there is a promised novelty on board. Some +original Christy's Minstrels are in rehearsal, and the +Theatrical Committee are looking up amateurs for a +farce. Readings from Dickens are also spoken of. An +occasional whale is seen blowing in the distance, and +many grampuses come rolling about the ship,—most +inelegant brutes, some three or four times the size of +a porpoise. Each in turn comes up, throws himself +round on the top of the sea, exposing nearly half his +body, and then rolls off again.</p> + +<p>To-day (the 20th March) we caught our first fish +from the forecastle,—a bonito, weighing about seven +pounds. Its colour was beautifully variegated: on the +back dark blue, with a streak of light blue silver +on either side, and the belly silvery white. These fish +are usually caught from the jiboom and the martingale, +as they play about the bows of the ship. The +only bait is a piece of white rag, which is bobbed upon +the surface of the water to imitate a flying-fish.</p> + +<p>But what interests us more than anything else at +present is the discovery of some homeward-bound ship, +by which to despatch our letters to friends at home. +The captain tells us that we are now almost directly in +the track of vessels making for England from the south; +and that if we do not sight one in the course of a day<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> +or two, we may not have the chance of seeing another +until we are far on our way south—if it all. We are, +therefore, anxiously waiting for the signal of a ship in +sight; and, in the hope that one may appear, we are +all busily engaged in the saloon giving the finishing +touches to our home letters.</p> + +<p>Shortly after lunch the word was given that no less +than three ships were in sight. Immense excitement +on board! Everybody turned up on deck. Passengers +who had never been seen since leaving Plymouth, now +made their appearance to look out for the ships. One +of them was a steamer, recognizable by the line of +smoke on the horizon, supposed to be the West India +mail-boat; another was outward-bound, like ourselves; +and the third was the homeward-bound ship for which +we were all on the look-out. She lay right across our +bows, but was still a long way off. As we neared her, +betting began among the passengers, led by the Major, +as to whether she would take letters or not. The scene +became quite exciting. The captain ordered all who +had letters to be in readiness. I had been scribbling +my very hardest ever since the ships came in sight, +and now I closed my letter and sealed it up. Would +the ship take our letters? Yes! She is an English +ship, with an English flag at her peak; and she signals +for newspapers, preserved milk, soap, and a doctor!</p> + +<p>I petitioned for leave to accompany the doctor, and, +to my great delight, was allowed to do so. The wind +had nearly gone quite down, and only came in occasional +slight gusts. The sea was, therefore, comparatively<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> +calm, with only a long, slow swell; yet, even +though calm, there is some little difficulty in getting +down into a boat in mid-ocean. At one moment the +boat is close under you, and at the next she is some +four yards down, and many feet apart from the side of +the ship; you have, therefore, to be prompt in seizing +an opportunity, and springing on board just at the +right moment.</p> + +<p>As we moved away from the 'Yorkshire,' with a +good bundle of newspapers and the other articles signalled +for, and looked back upon our ship, she really +looked a grand object on the waters. The sun shone +full upon her majestic hull, her bright copper now and +then showing as she slowly rose and sank on the long +swell. Above all were her towers of white canvas, +standing out in relief against the leaden-coloured sky. +Altogether, I don't think I have ever seen a more +magnificent sight. As we parted from the ship, the +hundred or more people on board gave us a ringing +cheer.</p> + +<p>Our men now pulled with a will towards the still-distant +ship. As we neared her, we observed that +she must have encountered very heavy weather, as +part of her foremast and mainmast had been carried +away. Her sides looked dirty and worn, and all her +ironwork was rusty, as if she had been a long time at +sea. She proved to be the 'Lord Raglan,' of about +800 tons, bound from Bankok, in Siam, to Yarmouth.</p> + +<p>The captain was delighted to see us, and gave us +a most cordial welcome. He was really a very nice<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> +fellow, and was kindness itself. He took us down to +his cabin, and treated us to Chinese beer and cigars. +The place was cheerful and comfortable-looking, and +fitted up with Indian and Chinese curiosities; yet I +could scarcely reconcile myself to living there. There +was a dreadful fusty smell about, which, I am told, is +peculiar to Indian and Chinese ships. The vessel was +laden with rice, and the fusty heat which came up +from below was something awful.</p> + +<p>The 'Lord Raglan' had been nearly two years +from London. She had run from London to Hong-Kong, +and had since been engaged in trading between +there and Siam. She was now eighty-three days from +Bankok. In this voyage she had encountered some +very heavy weather, in which she had sprung her +foremast, which was now spliced up all round. What +struck me was the lightness of her spars and the +smallness of her sails, compared with ours. Although +her mainmast is as tall, it is not so thick as our mizen, +and her spars are very slender above the first top. +Yet the 'Raglan,' in her best days, used to be one +of the crack Melbourne clipper ships.</p> + +<p>The kindly-natured captain was most loth to let us +go. It was almost distressing to see the expedients he +adopted to keep us with him for a few minutes longer. +But it was fast growing dusk, and in the tropics it +darkens almost suddenly; so we were at last obliged +to tear ourselves away, and leave him with his soap, +milk, and newspapers. He, on his part, sent by us a +twenty-pound chest of tea, as a present for the chief<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> +mate (who was with us) and the captain. As we left +the ship's side we gave the master and crew of the +'Raglan' a hearty "three times three." All this while +the two vessels had been lying nearly becalmed, so +that we had not a very long pull before we were safely +back on board our ship.</p> + +<p>For about five days we lie nearly idle, making very +little progress, almost on the Line. The trade-winds +have entirely left us. The heat is tremendous—130° +in the sun; and at midday, when the sun is right overhead, +it is difficult to keep the deck. Towards evening +the coolness is very pleasant; and when rain falls, as +it can only fall in the tropics, we rush out to enjoy +the bath. We assume the thinnest of <i>bizarre</i> costumes, +and stand still under the torrent, or vary the pleasure +by emptying buckets over each other.</p> + +<p>We are now in lat. 0° 22', close upon the Equator. +Though our sails are set, we are not sailing, but only +floating: indeed, we seem to be drifting. On looking +round the horizon, I count no fewer than sixteen ships +in sight, all in the same plight as ourselves. We are +drawn together by an under-current or eddy, though +scarcely a breath of wind is stirring. We did not, +however, speak any of the ships, most of them being +comparatively distant.</p> + +<p>We cross the Line about 8 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> on the twentieth day +from Plymouth. We have certainly had a very fine +run thus far, slow though our progress now is, for we +are only going at the rate of about a mile an hour; +but when we have got a little further south, we expect<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> +to get out of the tropical calms and catch the southeast +trade-winds.</p> + +<p>On the day following, the 24th March, a breeze +sprang up, and we made a run of 187 miles. We have +now passed the greatest heat, and shortly expect cooler +weather. Our spirits rise with the breeze, and we again +begin to think of getting up some entertainments on +board; for, though we have run some 4,800 miles from +Plymouth, we have still some fifty days before us ere +we expect to see Melbourne.</p> + +<p>One thing that strikes me much is the magnificence +of the tropical sunsets. The clouds assume all sorts of +fantastic shapes, and appear more solid and clearly +defined than I have ever seen before. Towards evening +they seem to float in colour—purple, pink, red, and +yellow alternately—while the sky near the setting sun +seems of a beautiful green, gradually melting into the +blue sky above. The great clouds on the horizon look +like mountains tipped with gold and fiery red. One of +these sunsets was a wonderful sight. The sun went +down into the sea between two enormous clouds—the +only ones to be seen—and they blazed with the brilliant +colours I have described, which were constantly +changing, until the clouds stood out in dark relief +against the still delicately-tinted sky. I got up frequently +to see the sun rise, but in the tropics it is not +nearly so fine at its rising as at its setting.</p> + +<p>A ship was announced as being in sight, with a signal +flying to speak with us. We were sailing along under +a favourable breeze, but our captain put the ship about<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> +and waited for the stranger. It proved to be a Yankee +whaler. When the captain came on board, he said +"he guessed he only wanted newspapers." Our skipper +was in a "roaring wax" at being stopped in his course +for such a trivial matter, but he said nothing. The +whaler had been out four years, and her last port was +Honolulu in the Sandwich Islands. The Yankee captain, +amongst other things, wanted to know if Grant was +President, and if the 'Alabama' question was settled; +he was interested in the latter question, as the 'Alabama' +had burnt one of his ships. He did not seem +very comfortable while on board, and when he had +got his papers he took his leave. I could not help admiring +the whale-boat in which he was rowed back to +his own vessel. It was a beautiful little thing, though +dirty; but, it had doubtless seen much service. It was +exquisitely modelled, and the two seamen in the little +craft handled it to perfection. How they contrived to +stand up in it quite steady, while the boat, sometimes +apparently half out of the water, kept rising and falling +on the long ocean-swell, seemed to me little short of +marvellous.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2> + +<h3>THE 'BLUE JACKET.'</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap"> +April Fools' Day</span>—<span class="smcap">A Ship in Sight</span>—<span class="smcap">The 'Pyrmont'</span>—<span class="smcap">The Rescued +'Blue Jacket' Passengers</span>—<span class="smcap">Story of the Burnt Ship</span>—<span class="smcap">Suffering +of the Lady Passengers in an Open Boat</span>—<span class="smcap">Their +Rescue</span>—<span class="smcap">Distressing Scene on Board the 'Pyrmont</span>.'</p> + + +<p><i>1st. April</i>.—I was roused early this morning by the +cry outside of "Get up! get up! There is a ship on +fire ahead!" I got up instantly, dressed, and hastened +on deck, like many more. But there was no ship on +fire; and then we laughed, and remembered that it +was All Fools' Day.</p> + +<p>In the course of the forenoon we descried a sail, and +shortly after we observed that she was bearing down +upon us. The cry of "Letters for home!" was raised, +and we hastened below to scribble a few last words, +close our letters, and bring them up for the letter-bag.</p> + +<p>By this time the strange ship had drawn considerably +nearer, and we saw that she was a barque, heavily +laden. She proved to be the 'Pyrmont,' a German +vessel belonging to Hamburg, but now bound for +Yarmouth from Iquique, with a cargo of saltpetre on +board. When she came near enough to speak to us, +our captain asked, "What do you want?" The answer +was, "'Blue Jacket' burnt at sea; her passengers on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> +board. Have you a doctor?" Here was a sensation! +Our April Fools' alarm was true after all. A vessel +<i>had</i> been on fire, and here were the poor passengers +asking for help. We knew nothing of the 'Blue +Jacket,' but soon we were to know all.</p> + +<p>A boat was at once lowered from the davits, and +went off with the doctor and the first mate. It was +a hazy, sultry, tropical day, with a very slight breeze +stirring, and very little sea. Our main-yard was backed +to prevent our further progress, and both ships lay-to +within a short distance of each other. We watched +our boat until we saw the doctor and officer mount the +'Pyrmont,' and then waited for further intelligence.</p> + +<p>Shortly after we saw our boat leaving the ship's side, +and as it approached we observed that it contained +some strangers, as well as our doctor, who had returned +for medicines, lint, and other appliances. When the +strangers reached the deck we found that one of them +was the first officer of the unfortunate 'Blue Jacket,' +and the other one of the burnt-out passengers. The +latter, poor fellow, looked a piteous sight. He had +nothing on but a shirt and pair of trowsers; his hair +was matted, his face haggard, his eyes sunken. He +was without shoes, and his feet were so sore that he +could scarcely walk without support.</p> + +<p>And yet it turned out that this poor suffering fellow +was one of the best-conditioned of those who had been +saved from the burnt ship. He told us how that the +whole of the fellow-passengers whom he had just left +on board the 'Pyrmont' wanted clothes, shirts, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> +shoes, and were in a wretched state, having been tossed +about at sea in an open boat for about nine days, during +which they had suffered the extremities of cold, thirst, +and hunger.</p> + +<p>We were horrified by the appearance, and still more +by the recital, of the poor fellow. Every moment he +astonished us by new details of horror. But it was of +no use listening to more. We felt we must do something. +All the passengers at once bestirred themselves, +and went into their cabins to seek out any clothing +they could spare for the relief of the sufferers. I found +I could give trowsers, shirts, a pair of drawers, a blanket, +and several pocket-handkerchiefs; and as the other +passengers did likewise, a very fair bundle was soon +made up and sent on board the 'Pyrmont.'</p> + +<p>Of course we were all eager to know something of +the details of the calamity which had befallen the +'Blue Jacket.' It was some time before we learnt them +all; but as two of the passengers—who had been gold-diggers +in New Zealand—were so good as to write out +a statement for the doctor, the original of which now +lies before me, I will endeavour, in as few words as I +can, to give you some idea of the burning of the ship +and the horrible sufferings of the passengers.</p> + +<p>The 'Blue Jacket' sailed from Port Lyttleton, New +Zealand, for London on the 13th February, 1869, laden +with wool, cotton, flax, and 15,000 ounces of gold. +There were seven first-cabin passengers and seventeen +second-cabin. The ship had a fine run to Cape Horn +and past the Falkland Islands. All went well until<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> +the 9th March, when in latitude 50° 26' south, one of +the seamen, about midday, observed smoke issuing +from the fore-hatchhouse. The cargo was on fire! All +haste was made to extinguish it. The fire-engines +were set to work, passengers as well as crew working +with a will, and at one time it seemed as if the fire +would be got under. The hatch was opened and the +second mate attempted to go down, with the object of +getting up and throwing overboard the burning bales, +but he was drawn back insensible. The hatch was +again closed, and holes were cut in the deck to pass +the water down; but the seat of the fire could not be +reached. The cutter was lowered, together with the +two lifeboats, for use in case of need. About 7.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> +the fire burst through the decks, and in about half an +hour the whole forecastle was enveloped in flames, +which ran up the rigging, licking up the foresail and +fore-top. The mainmast being of iron, the flames +rushed through the tube as through a chimney, until +it became of a white heat. The lady-passengers in the +after part of the ship must have been kept in a state +of total ignorance of the ship's danger, otherwise it is +impossible to account for their having to rush on board +the boats, at the last moment, with only the dresses +they wore. Only a few minutes before they left the +ship, one of the ladies was playing the 'Guards' Waltz +on the cabin piano!</p> + +<p>There was no hope of safety but in the boats, which +were hurriedly got into. On deck, everything was +in a state of confusion. Most of the passengers got<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> +into the cutter, but without a seaman to take charge +of it. When the water-cask was lowered, it was sent +bung downwards, and nearly half the water was lost. +By this time the burning ship was a grand but fearful +sight, and the roar of the flames was frightful to hear. +At length the cutter and the two lifeboats got away, +and as they floated astern the people in them saw the +masts disappear one by one and the hull of the ship a +roaring mass of fire.</p> + +<p>In the early grey of the morning the three boats +mustered, and two of the passengers, who were on +one of the lifeboats, were taken on board the cutter. +It now contained 37 persons, including the captain, +first officer, doctor, steward, purser, several able-bodied +seamen, and all the passengers; while the +two lifeboats had 31 of the crew. The boats drifted +about all day, there being no wind, and the burning +ship was still in sight. On the third day the lifeboats +were not to be seen; each had a box of gold on board, +by way of ballast.</p> + +<p>A light breeze having sprung up, sail was made on +the cutter, the captain intending to run for the Falkland +Islands. The sufferings of the passengers increased +from day to day; they soon ran short of water, +until the day's allowance was reduced to about two +tablespoonfuls for each person. It was pitiful to hear +the little children calling for more, but it could not be +given them: men, women, and children had to share +alike. Provisions failed. The biscuit had been spoiled +by the salt water; all that remained in the way of food,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> +was preserved meat, which was soon exhausted, after +which the only allowance, besides the two tablespoonfuls +of water, was a tablespoonful of preserved soup every +twenty-four hours. Meanwhile the wind freshened, the +sea rose, and the waves came dashing over the passengers, +completely drenching them. The poor ladies, +thinly clad, looked the pictures of misery.</p> + +<p>Thus seven days passed—days of slow agony, such +as words cannot describe—until at last the joyous +words, "A sail! a sail," roused the sufferers to new +life. A man was sent to the masthead with a red +blanket to hoist by way of signal of distress. The ship +saw the signal and bore down upon the cutter. She +proved to be the 'Pyrmont,' the ship lying within sight +of us, and between which and the 'Yorkshire' our boat +kept plying for the greater part of the day.</p> + +<p>Strange to say, the rescued people suffered more +after they had got on board the 'Pyrmont' than they +had done during their period of starvation and exposure. +Few of them could stand or walk when taken +on board, all being reduced to the last stage of weakness. +Scarcely had they reached the 'Pyrmont' ere +the third steward died; next day the ship's purser +died insane; and two days after, one of the second-cabin +passengers died. The others, who recovered, +broke out in sores and boils, more particularly on their +hands and feet; and when the 'Yorkshire' met them, +many of the passengers as well as the crew of the burnt +'Blue Jacket' were in a most pitiable plight.</p> + +<p>I put off with the third boat which left our ship's<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> +side for the 'Pyrmont.' We were lying nearly becalmed +all this time, so that passing between the ships +by boat was comparatively easy. We took with us as +much fresh water as we could spare, together with +provisions and other stores. I carried with me a few +spare books for the use of the 'Blue Jacket' passengers.</p> + +<p>On reaching the deck of the 'Pyrmont,' the scene +which presented itself was such as I think I shall never +forget. The three rescued ladies were on the poop; and +ladies you could see they were, in spite of their scanty +and dishevelled garments. The dress of one of them +consisted of a common striped man's shirt, a waterproof +cloak made into a skirt, and a pair of coarse canvas +slippers, while on her finger glittered a magnificent +diamond ring. The other ladies were no better dressed, +and none of them had any covering for the head. +Their faces bore distinct traces of the sufferings they +had undergone. Their eyes were sunken, their cheeks +pale, and every now and then a sort of spasmodic +twitch seemed to pass over their features. One of them +could just stand, but could not walk; the others were +comparatively helpless. A gentleman was lying close +by the ladies, still suffering grievously in his hands and +feet from the effects of his long exposure in the open +boat, while one side of his body was completely paralysed. +One poor little boy could not move, and the +doctor said he must lose one or two of his toes through +mortification.</p> + +<p>One of the ladies was the wife of the passenger +gentleman who had first come on board of our ship.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> +She was a young lady, newly married, who had just +set out on her wedding trip. What a terrible beginning +of married life! I found she had suffered more +than the others through her devotion to her husband. +He was, at one time, constantly employed in baling the +boat, and would often have given way but for her. She +insisted on his taking half her allowance of water, so +that he had three tablespoonfuls daily instead of two; +whereas she had only one!</p> + +<p>While in the boat the women and children were +forced to sit huddled up at one end of it, covered +with a blanket, the seas constantly breaking over +them and soaking through everything. They had +to sit upright, and in very cramped postures, for +fear of capsizing the boat; and the little sleep they +got could only be snatched sitting. Yet they bore +their privations with great courage and patience, and +while the men were complaining and swearing, the +women and children never uttered a complaint.</p> + +<p>I had a long talk with the ladies, whom I found +very resigned and most grateful for their deliverance. +I presented my books, which were thankfully received, +and the newly-married lady, forgetful of her miseries, +talked pleasantly and intelligently about current topics, +and home news. It did seem strange for me to be +sitting on the deck of the 'Pyrmont,' in the middle +of the Atlantic, talking with these shipwrecked ladies +about the last new novel!</p> + +<p>At last we took our leave, laden with thanks, and +returned on board our ship. It was now growing dusk.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> +We had done all that we could for the help of the +poor sufferers on board the 'Pyrmont,' and, a light +breeze springing up, all sail was set, and we resumed +our voyage south.</p> + +<p>Two of the gold-diggers, who had been second-class +passengers by the 'Blue Jacket,' came on board our +ship with the object of returning with us to Melbourne, +and it is from their recital that I have collated the +above account of the disaster.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2> + +<h3>IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Preparing for Rough Weather</span>—<span class="smcap">The 'George Thompson' Clipper</span>—<span class="smcap">A +Race at Sea</span>—<span class="smcap">Scene from 'Pickwick' Acted</span>—<span class="smcap">Fishing For +Albatross</span>—<span class="smcap">Dissection and Division of the Bird</span>—<span class="smcap">Whales</span>—<span class="smcap">Strong +Gale</span>—<span class="smcap">Smash in the Cabin</span>—<span class="smcap">Shipping a Green Sea</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Sea Birds in our Wake</span>—<span class="smcap">The Crozet Islands</span>.</p> + + +<p><i>11th April</i>.—We are now past the pleasantest part of +our voyage, and expect to encounter much rougher +seas. Everything is accordingly prepared for heavy +weather. The best and newest sails are bent; the old +and worn ones are sent below. We may have to encounter +storms or even cyclones in the Southern Ocean, +and our captain is now ready for any wind that may +blow. For some days we have had a very heavy swell +coming up from the south, as if there were strong +winds blowing in that quarter. We have, indeed, +already had a taste of dirty weather to-day—hard +rain, with a stiffish breeze; but as the ship is still +going with the wind and sea, we do not as yet feel +much inconvenience.</p> + +<p>A few days since, we spoke a vessel that we had been +gradually coming up to for some time, and she proved to +be the 'George Thompson,' a splendid Aberdeen-built +clipper, one of the fastest ships out of London. No sooner<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> +was this known, than it became a matter of great interest +as to whether we could overhaul the clipper. Our ship, +because of the height and strength of her spars, enables +us to carry much more sail, and we are probably equal +to the other ship in lighter breezes; but she, being +clipper-built and so much sharper, has the advantage +of us in heavier winds. The captain was overjoyed +at having gained upon the other vessel thus far, for +she left London five days before we sailed from Plymouth. +As we gradually drew nearer, the breeze +freshened, and there became quite an exciting contest +between the ships. We gained upon our rival, caught +up to her, and gradually forged ahead, and at sundown +the 'George Thompson' was about six miles astern. +Before we caught up to her she signalled to us, by way +of chaff, "Signal us at Lloyd's!" and when we had +passed her, we signalled back, "We wish you a good +voyage!"</p> + +<p>The wind having freshened during the night, the +'George Thompson' was seen gradually creeping up to +us with all her sail set. The wind was on our beam, +and the 'George Thompson's' dark green hull seemed +to us sometimes almost buried in the sea, and we only +saw her slanting deck as she heeled over from the +freshening breeze. What a cloud of canvas she carried! +The spray flew up and over her decks, as she plunged +right through the water.</p> + +<p>The day advanced; she continued to gain, and towards +evening she passed on our weather-side. The +captain, of course, was savage; but the race was not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> +lost yet. On the following day, with a lighter wind, +we again overhauled our rival, and at night left her +four or five miles behind. Next day she was not to +be seen. We had thus far completely outstripped the +noted clipper.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p> + +<p>We again begin to reconsider the question of giving +a popular entertainment on board. The ordinary recreations +of quoit-playing, and such like, have become +unpopular, and a little variety is wanted. A reading +from 'Pickwick' is suggested; but cannot we contrive +to <i>act</i> a few of the scenes! We determine to get up +three of the most attractive:—1st. The surprise of +Mrs. Bardell in Pickwick's arms; 2nd. The notice of +action from Dodson and Fogg; and 3rd. The Trial +scene. A great deal of time is, of course, occupied +in getting up the scenes, and in the rehearsals, which +occasion a good deal of amusement. A London gentleman +promises to make a capital Sam Weller; our +clergyman a very good Buzfuz; and our worthy young +doctor the great Pickwick himself.</p> + +<p>At length all is ready, and the affair comes off in +the main-hatch, where there is plenty of room. The +theatre is rigged out with flags, and looks quite gay. +The passengers of all classes assemble, and make a +goodly company. The whole thing went off very well—indeed, +much better than was expected—though I +do not think the third-class passengers quite appreciated<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> +the wit of the piece. Strange to say, the greatest +success of the evening was the one least expected—the +character of Mrs. Cluppins. One of the middies +who took the part, was splendid, and evoked roars of +laughter.</p> + +<p>Our success has made us ambitious, and we think of +getting up another piece—a burlesque, entitled 'Sir +Dagobert and the Dragon,' from one of my Beeton's +'Annuals.' There is not much in it; but, <i>faute de +mieux</i>, it may do very well. But to revert to less +"towny" and much more interesting matters passing +on board.</p> + +<p>We were in about the latitude of the Cape of Good +Hope when we saw our first albatross; but as we proceeded +south, we were attended by increasing numbers +of those birds as well as of Mother Carey's chickens, +the storm-birds of the South Seas. The albatross is a +splendid bird, white on the breast and the inside of +the wings, the rest of the body being deep brown and +black.</p> + +<p>One of the most popular amusements is "fishing" +for an albatross, which is done in the following manner. +A long and stout line is let out, with a strong hook +at the end baited with a piece of meat, buoyed up +with corks. This is allowed to trail on the water at +the stern of the ship. One or other of the sea-birds +wheeling about, seeing the floating object in the water, +comes up, eyes it askance, and perhaps at length clumsily +flops down beside it. The line is at once let out, so +that the bait may not drag after the ship. If this be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> +done cleverly, and there be length enough of line to +let out quickly, the bird probably makes a snatch at +the meat, and the hook catches hold of his curved bill. +Directly he grabs at the pork, and it is felt that the +albatross is hooked, the letting out of the line is at once +stopped, and it is hauled in with all speed. The great +thing is to pull quickly, so as to prevent the bird getting +the opportunity of spreading his wings, and making a +heavy struggle as he comes along on the surface of the +water. It is a good heavy pull for two men to get up +an albatross if the ship is going at any speed. The poor +fellow, when hauled on deck, is no longer the royal +bird that he seemed when circling above our heads +with his great wings spread out only a few minutes +ago. Here he is quite helpless, and tries to waddle +about like a great goose; the first thing he often does +being to void all the contents of his stomach, as if he +were seasick.</p> + +<p>The first albatross we caught was not a very large +one, being only about ten feet from tip to tip of the +wings; whereas the larger birds measure from twelve +to thirteen feet. The bird, when caught, was held +firmly down, and despatched by the doctor with the +aid of prussic acid. He was then cut up, and his skin, +for the sake of the feathers and plumage, divided +amongst us. The head and neck fell to my share, and, +after cleaning and dressing it, I hung my treasure by +a string out of my cabin-window; but, when I next +went to look at it, lo! the string had been cut, and +my albatross's head and neck were gone.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span></p> + +<p>All day the saloon and various cabins smelt very +fishy by reason of the operations connected with the +dissecting and cleaning of the several parts of the albatross. +One was making a pipe-stem out of one of the +long wing-bones. Another was making a tobacco +pouch out of the large feet of the bird. The doctor's +cabin was like a butcher's shop in these bird-catching +times. Part of his floor would be occupied by the +bloody skin of the great bird, stretched out upon +boards, with the doctor on his knees beside it working +away with his dissecting scissors and pincers, getting +the large pieces of fat off the skin. Esculapius seemed +quite to relish the operation; whilst, on the other hand +the clergyman, who occupied the same cabin, held his +handkerchief to his nose, and regarded the débris +of flesh and feathers on the floor with horror and +dismay.</p> + +<p>Other birds, of a kind we had not before seen +shortly made their appearance, flying round the ship. +There is, for instance, the whale-bird, perfectly black +on the top of the wings and body, and white underneath. +It is, in size, between a Mother Carey and a +Molly-hawk, which latter is very nearly as big as an +albatross. Ice-birds and Cape-pigeons also fly about us +in numbers; the latter are about the size of ordinary +pigeons, black, mottled with white on the back, and +grey on the breast.</p> + +<p>A still more interesting sight was that of a great +grampus, which rose close to the ship, exposing his +body as he leapt through a wave. Shortly after, a few<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> +more were seen at a greater distance, as if playing +about and gambolling for our amusement.</p> + +<p><i>17th April</i>.—The weather is growing sensibly colder. +Instead of broiling under cover, in the thinnest of +garments, we now revert to our winter clothing for +comfort. Towards night the wind rose, and gradually +increased until it blew a heavy gale, so strong that all +the sails had to be taken in—all but the foresail and +the main-topsail closely reefed. Luckily for us, the +wind was nearly aft, so that we did not feel its effects +nearly so much as if it had been on our beam. Tonight +we rounded the Cape, twenty-four days from the +Line and forty-five from Plymouth.</p> + +<p>On the following day the wind was still blowing +hard. When I went on deck in the morning, I found +that the mainsail had been split up the middle, and +carried away with a loud bang to sea. The ship was +now under mizen-topsail, close-reefed main-topsail, and +fore-topsail and foresail, no new mainsail having been +bent. The sea was a splendid sight. Waves, like +low mountains, came rolling after us, breaking along +each side of the ship. I was a personal sufferer by the +gale. I had scarcely got on deck when the wind whisked +off my Scotch cap with the silver thistle in it, and blew +it away to sea. Then, in going down to my cabin, I +found my books, boxes, and furniture lurching about; +and, to wind up with, during the evening I was rolled +over while sitting on one of the cuddy chairs, and +broke it. Truly a day full of small misfortunes for +me!<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span></p> + +<p>In the night I was awakened by the noise and the +violent rolling of the ship. The mizen-mast strained +and creaked; chairs had broken loose in the saloon; +crockery was knocking about and smashing up in the +steward's pantry. In the cabin adjoining, the water-can +and bath were rambling up and down; and in the midst +of all the hubbub the Major could be heard shouting, +"Two to one on the water-can!" "They were just +taking the fences," he said. There were few but had +some mishap in their cabins. One had a hunt after a +box that had broken loose; another was lamenting the +necessity of getting up after his washhand-basin and +placing his legs in peril outside his bunk. Before +breakfast I went on deck to look at the scene. It was +still blowing a gale. We were under topsails and +mainsail, with a close-reefed top-sail on the mizen-mast. +The sight from the poop is splendid. At one moment +we were high up on the top of a wave, looking into a +deep valley behind us; at another we were down in the +trough of the sea, with an enormous wall of water +coming after us. The pure light-green waves were +crested with foam, which curled over and over, and +never stopped rolling. The deck lay over at a dreadful +slant to a landsman's eye; indeed, notwithstanding +holding on to everything I could catch, I fell four times +during the morning.</p> + +<p>With difficulty I reached the saloon, where the passengers +had assembled for breakfast. Scarcely had we +taken out seats when an enormous sea struck the ship, +landed on the poop, dashed in the saloon skylight, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> +flooded the table with water. This was a bad event +for those who had not had their breakfast. As I was +mounting the cuddy stairs, I met the captain coming +down thoroughly soaked. He had been knocked down, +and had to hold on by a chain to prevent himself +being washed about the deck. The officer of the watch +afterwards told me that he had seen his head bobbing +up and down amidst the water, of which there were +tons on the poop.</p> + +<p>This was what they call "shipping a green sea,"—so +called because so much water is thrown upon the deck +that it ceases to have the frothy appearance of smaller +seas when shipped, but looks a mass of solid green +water. Our skipper afterwards told us at dinner that +the captain of the 'Essex' had not long ago been +thrown by such a sea on to one of the hen-coops that +run round the poop, breaking through the iron bars, +and that he had been so bruised that he had not yet +entirely recovered from his injuries. Such is the +tremendous force of water in violent motion at sea.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p> + +<p>When I went on deck again, the wind had somewhat +abated, but the sea was still very heavy. While on +the poop, one enormous wave came rolling on after us, +seeming as if it must engulf the ship. But the stern +rose gradually and gracefully as the huge wave came +on, and it rolled along, bubbling over the sides of the +main-deck, and leaving it about two feet deep in water.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> +As the day wore on the wind gradually went down, +and it seemed as if +we were to have +another spell of fine +weather.</p> + +<p class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a href="images/image050-lg.png"> +<img src="images/image050.png" width="600" height="492" alt="(Map of the Ship's Course, Plymouth to Melbourne)" title="(Map of the Ship's Course, Plymouth to Melbourne)" /> +</a></p> + +<p>Next morning +the sun shone +clear; the wind +had nearly died +away, though a +heavy swell still +crossed our quarter. +Thousands of sea-birds +flew about +us, and clusters +were to be seen<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> +off our stern, as far as the eye could reach. They +seemed, though on a much larger scale, to be hanging +upon our track, just as a flock of crows hang +over the track of a plough in the field, and doubtless +for the same reason—to pick up the food thrown +up by the mighty keel of our ship. Most of them +were ice-birds, blue petrels, and whale-birds, with +a large admixture of albatrosses and Mother Carey's +chickens. One of the passengers caught and killed +one of the last-named birds, at which the captain was +rather displeased, the sailors having a superstition +about these birds, that it is unlucky to kill them. An +ice-bird was caught, and a very pretty bird it is, almost +pure white, with delicate blue feet and beak. Another +caught a Cape pigeon, and I caught a stink-pot, a +large bird measuring about eight feet from wing to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> +wing. The bird was very plucky when got on deck, +and tried to peck at us; but we soon had him down. +As his plumage was of no use, we fastened a small +tin-plate to his leg, with 'Yorkshire' scratched on it, +and let him go. But it was some time before he rose +from his waddling on the deck, spread his wings, and +sailed into the air.</p> + +<p>Some of the passengers carry on shooting at the +numerous birds from the stern of the ship; but it is +cruel sport. It may be fun to us, but it is death to the +birds. And not always death. Poor things! It is a +pitiful sight to see one of them, pricked or winged, +floating away with its wounds upon it, until quite +out of sight. Such sport seems cruel, if it be not +cowardly.</p> + +<p><i>23rd April</i>.—We are now in latitude 45.16° south, +and the captain tells us that during the night we may +probably sight the Crozet Islands. It seems that these +islands are inaccurately marked on the charts, some of +even the best authorities putting them from one and a +half to two degrees out both in latitude and longitude, +as the captain showed us by a late edition of a standard +work on navigation. Once he came pretty well south +on purpose to sight them; but when he reached the +precise latitude in which, according to his authority, +they were situated, they were not to be seen.</p> + +<p>At 8 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> the man on the look-out gave the cry +of "Land ho!" "Where away?" "On the lee beam." +I strained my eyes in the direction indicated, but could +make out nothing like land. I could see absolutely<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> +nothing but water all round. Two hours passed before +I could discern anything which could give one the idea +of land—three small, misty, cloud-looking objects, +lying far off to the south, which were said to be the +islands. In about an hour more we were within about +five miles of Les Apôtres, part of the group, having +passed Cochon in the distance. Cochon is so called +because of the number of wild pigs on the island. The +largest, Possession Island, gave refuge to the shipwrecked +crew of a whaler for about two years, when +they were at length picked off by a passing ship. The +Crozets are of volcanic origin, and some of them present +a curious, conical, and sometimes fantastic appearance, +more particularly Les Apôtres. The greater number of +them are quite barren, the only vegetation of the others +consisting of a few low stunted bushes.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> It may, however, be added, +that though we did not again sight +the 'George Thompson' during +our voyage, she arrived at Melbourne +about forty-eight hours +before our ship.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Mr. G. Stevenson registered +a force of three tons per square +foot at Skerryvore during a gale +in the Atlantic, when the waves +were supposed to be twenty feet +high.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2> + +<h3>NEARING AUSTRALIA—THE LANDING.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Acting on Board</span>—<span class="smcap">The Cyclone</span>—<span class="smcap">Cleaning the Ship for Port</span>—<span class="smcap">Contrary +Winds</span>—<span class="smcap">Australia in Sight</span>—<span class="smcap">Cape Otway</span>—<span class="smcap">Port +Phillip Heads</span>—<span class="smcap">Pilot Taken on Board</span>—<span class="smcap">Inside the Heads</span>—<span class="smcap">Williamstown</span>—<span class="smcap">Sandridge</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Landing</span>.</p> + + +<p>More theatricals! 'Sir Dagobert and the Dragon' is +played, and comes off very well. The extemporised +dresses and "properties" are the most amusing of all. +The company next proceed to get up 'Aladdin and the +Wonderful Scamp' to pass the time, which hangs heavy +on our hands. We now begin to long for the termination +of our voyage. We have sailed about 10,000 miles, +but have still about 3000 more before us.</p> + +<p><i>30th April</i>.—To-day we have made the longest run +since we left Plymouth, not less than 290 miles in +twenty-four hours. We have before made 270, but +then the sea was smooth, and the wind fair. Now the +wind is blowing hard on our beam, with a heavy sea +running. About 3 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we sighted a barque steering +at right angles to our course. In a short time we came +up with her, and found that she was the Dutch barque +'Vrede,' ninety-eight days from Amsterdam and bound<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> +for Batavia. She crossed so close to our stern that one +might almost have pitched a biscuit on board.</p> + +<p>During the night the sea rose, the wind blowing +strong across our beam, and the ship pitched and rolled +as she is said never to have done since she was built. +There was not much sleep for us that night. The wind +increased to a strong gale, until at length it blew quite +a hurricane. It was scarcely possible to stand on deck. +The wind felt as if it blew solid. The ship was driving +furiously along under close-reefed topsails. Looking +over the side, one could only see the black waves, +crested with foam, scudding past.</p> + +<p>It appears that we are now in a cyclone—not in the +worst part of it, but in the inner edge of the outside +circle. Skilful navigators know by experience how to +make their way out of these furious ocean winds, and +our captain was equal to the emergency. In about +seven hours we were quite clear of it, though the wind +blew fresh, and the ship rolled heavily, the sea continuing +for some time in a state of great agitation.</p> + +<p>For some days the wind keeps favourable, and our +ship springs forward as if she knew her port, and was +eager to reach it. A few more days and we may be +in sight of Australia. We begin almost to count the +hours. In anticipation of our arrival, the usual testimonial +to the captain is set on foot, all being alike +ready to bear testimony to his courtesy and seamanship. +On deck, the men began to holystone the planks, +polish up the brasswork, and make everything shipshape +for port. The middies are at work here on the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> +poop, each "with a sharp knife and a clear conscience," +cutting away pieces of tarry rope. New ratlines are +being fastened up across the shrouds. The standing +rigging is re-tarred and shines black. The deck is +fresh scraped as well as the mizen-mast, and the white +paint-pot has been used freely.</p> + +<p><i>9th May.</i>—We are now in Australian waters, sailing +along under the lee of Cape Leeuwin, though the land +is not yet in sight. Australian birds are flying about +our ship, unlike any we have yet seen. We beat up +against the wind which is blowing off the land, our +yards slewed right round. It is provoking to be so +near the end of our voyage, and blown back when +almost in sight of port.</p> + +<p><i>14th May.</i>—After four days of contrary wind, it +changed again, and we are now right for Melbourne. +Our last theatrical performance came off with great +<i>éclat</i>. The captain gave his parting supper after the +performance; and the <i>menu</i> was remarkable, considering +that we had been out eighty-one days from Gravesend. +There were ducks, fowls, tongues, hams, with +lobster-salads, oyster pattés, jellies, blanc-manges, and +dessert. Surely the art of preserving fresh meat and +comestibles must have nearly reached perfection. To +wind up, songs were sung, toasts proposed, and the +captain's testimonial was presented amidst great +enthusiasm.</p> + +<p><i>18th May.</i>—We sighted the Australian land to-day +about thirteen miles off Cape Otway. The excitement +on board was very great; and no wonder, after so long<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> +a voyage. Some were going home there, to rejoin +their families, relatives, and friends. Others were going +there for pleasure or for health. Perhaps the greater +number regarded it as the land of their choice—a sort +of promised land—where they were to make for themselves +a home, and hoped to carve out for themselves +a road to competency if not to fortune.</p> + +<p>We gradually neared the land, until we were only +about five miles distant from it. The clouds lay low on +the sandy shore; the dark-green scrub here and there +reaching down almost to the water's edge. The coast +is finely undulating, hilly in some places, and well +wooded. Again we beat off the land, to round Cape +Otway, whose light we see. Early next morning +we signal the lighthouse, and the news of our approaching +arrival will be forthwith telegraphed to +Melbourne. The wind, however, dies away when we +are only about thirty miles from Port Phillip Heads, +and there we lie idly becalmed the whole afternoon, the +ship gently rolling in the light-blue water, the sails +flapping against the masts, or occasionally drawing half +full, with a fitful puff of wind. Our only occupation +was to watch the shore, and with the help of the telescope +we could make out little wooden huts half hidden +in the trees, amidst patches of cultivated land. As the +red sun set over the dark-green hills, there sprang up +the welcome evening breeze, which again filled our +canvas, and the wavelets licked the ship's sides as she +yielded to the wind, and at last sped us on to Port +Phillip.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span></p> + +<p>At midnight we are in sight of the light at the +entrance of the bay. Then we are taken in tow by a +tug, up to the Heads, where we wait until sunrise for +our pilot to come on board. The Heads are low necks +of sandy hillocks, one within another, that guard the +entrance to the extensive bay of Port Phillip. On one +side is Point Lonsdale, and on the other Point Nepean.</p> + +<p><i>21st May.</i>—Our pilot comes on board early, and takes +our ship in charge. He is a curious-looking object, +more like a Jew bailiff than anything else I can think +of, and very unlike an English "salt." But the man +seems to know his work, and away we go, tugged by +our steamer.</p> + +<p>A little inside the Heads, we are boarded by the +quarantine officer, who inquires as to the health of +the ship, which is satisfactory, and we proceed up the +bay. Shortly after, we pass, on the west, Queenscliffe, +a pretty village built on a bit of abrupt headland, the +houses of which dot the green sward. The village +church is a pleasant object in the landscape. We +curiously spy the land as we pass. By the help of the +telescope we can see signs of life on shore. We observe, +amongst other things, an early tradesman's cart, drawn +by a fast-trotting pony, driving along the road. More +dwellings appear, amidst a pretty, well cultivated, +rolling landscape.</p> + +<p>At length we lose sight of the shore, proceeding up +the bay towards Melbourne, which is nearly some 30 +miles distant, and still below the horizon. Sailing on, +the tops of trees rise up; then low banks of sand, flat<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> +tracts of bush, and, slightly elevated above them, occasional +tracts of clear yellow space. Gradually rising +up in the west, distant hills come in sight; and, +towards the north, an undulating region is described, +stretching round the bay inland.</p> + +<p>We now near the northern shore, and begin to perceive +houses, and ships, and spires. The port of Williamstown +comes in sight, full of shipping, as appears +by the crowd of masts. Outside of it is Her Majesty's +ship 'Nelson,' lying at anchor. On the right is the +village or suburb of St. Kilda, and still further round +is Brighton. Sandridge, the landing-place of Melbourne, +lies right ahead of us, and over the masts of +shipping we are pointed to a mass of houses in the +distance, tipped with spires and towers, and are told, +"There is the city of Melbourne!"</p> + +<p>At 5 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we were alongside the large wooden railway-pier +of Sandridge, and soon many of our fellow-passengers +were in the arms of their friends and +relatives. Others, of whom I was one, had none to +welcome us; but, like the rest, I took my ticket for +Melbourne, only some three miles distant; and in the +course of another quarter of an hour I found myself +safely landed in the great city of the Antipodes.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span></p> +<p class="figcenter" style="width: 449px;"><a name="Melbourne" id="Melbourne"></a> +<img src="images/image060.jpg" width="449" height="400" alt="(View of Melbourne, Victoria)" title="(View of Melbourne, Victoria)" /> +</p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h2> + +<h3>MELBOURNE.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">First Impressions of Melbourne</span>—<span class="smcap">Survey of the City</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Streets</span>—<span class="smcap">Collins Street</span>—<span class="smcap">The Traffic</span>—<span class="smcap">Newness and +Youngness of Melbourne</span>—<span class="smcap">Absence of Beggars</span>—<span class="smcap">Melbourne +an English City</span>—<span class="smcap">The Chinese Quarter</span>—<span class="smcap">The Public Library</span>—<span class="smcap">Pentridge +Prison</span>—<span class="smcap">The Yarra River</span>—<span class="smcap">St. Kilda</span>—<span class="smcap">Social +Experiences in Melbourne</span>—<span class="smcap">A Marriage Ball</span>—<span class="smcap">Melbourne +Ladies</span>—<span class="smcap">Visit to a Serious Family</span>.</p> + + +<p>I arrive in Melbourne towards evening, and on stepping +out of the railway-train find myself amidst a +glare of gas lamps. Outside the station the streets are +all lit up, the shops are brilliant with light, and well-dressed +people are moving briskly about.</p> + +<p>What is this large building in Bourke Street, with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> +the crowd standing about? It is the Royal Theatre. +A large stone-faced hall inside the portico, surrounded +by bars brilliantly lit, is filled with young men in +groups lounging about, talking and laughing. At the +further end of the vestibule are the entrances to the +different parts of the house.</p> + +<p>Further up the same street, I come upon a large +market-place, in a blaze of light, where crowds of people +are moving about, buying vegetables, fruit, meat, and +such like. At the further end of the street the din +and bustle are less, and I see a large structure standing +in an open space, looking black against the starlit sky. +I afterwards find that it is the Parliament House.</p> + +<p>Such is my first introduction to Melbourne. It is +evidently a place stirring with life. After strolling +through some of the larger streets, and everywhere +observing the same indications of wealth, and traffic, +and population, I took the train for Sandridge, and +slept a good sound sleep in my bunk on board the +'Yorkshire' for the last time.</p> + +<p>Next morning I returned to Melbourne in the +broad daylight, when I was able to make a more deliberate +survey of the city. I was struck by the width +and regularity of some of the larger streets, and by +the admirable manner in which they are paved and +kept. The whole town seems to have been laid out +on a systematic plan, which some might think even too +regular and uniform. But the undulating nature of +the ground on which the city is built serves to correct +this defect, if defect it be.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span></p> + +<p>The streets are mostly laid out at right angles; broad +streets one way, and alternate broad and narrow streets +crossing them. Collins and Bourke Streets are, perhaps, +the finest. The view from the high ground, at one end +of Collins Street, looking down the hollow of the road, +and right away up the hill on the other side, is very +striking. This grand street, of great width, is probably +not less than a mile long. On either side are +the principal bank buildings, tall and handsome. Just a +little way up the hill, on the further side, is a magnificent +white palace-like structure, with a richly ornamented +façade and tower. That is the New Town Hall. Higher +up is a fine church spire, and beyond it a red brick +tower, pricked out with yellow, standing in bold relief +against the clear blue sky. You can just see Bourke +and Wills' monument there, in the centre of the roadway. +And at the very end of the perspective, the +handsome grey front of the Treasury bounds the view.</p> + +<p>Amongst the peculiarities of the Melbourne streets +are the deep, broad stone gutters, on either side of the +roadway, evidently intended for the passage of a very +large quantity of water in the rainy season. They are +so broad as to render it necessary to throw little wooden +bridges over them at the street-crossings. I was told +that these open gutters are considered by no means +promotive of the health of the inhabitants, which one +can readily believe; and it is probable that before +long they will be covered up.</p> + +<p>Walk over Collins and Bourke Street at nine or +ten in the morning, and you meet the business men of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> +Melbourne on their way from the railway-station to +their offices in town: for the greater number of them, +as in London, live in the suburbs. The shops are all +open, everything looking bright and clean. Pass along +the same streets in the afternoon, and you will find +gaily-dressed ladies flocking the pathways. The shops +are bustling with customers. There are many private +carriages to be seen, with two-wheeled cars, on which +the passengers sit back to back, these (with the +omnibuses) being the public conveyances of Melbourne. +Collins Street may be regarded as the favourite promenade; +more particularly between three and four in +the afternoon, when shopping is merely the excuse of +its numerous fashionable frequenters.</p> + +<p>One thing struck me especially—the very few old +or grey-haired people one meets with in the streets of +Melbourne. They are mostly young people; and there +are comparatively few who have got beyond the middle +stage of life. And no wonder. For how young a city +Melbourne is! Forty years since there was not a house +in the place.</p> + +<p>Where the Melbourne University now stands, a few +miserable Australian blacks would meet and hold a +corroboree; but, except it might be a refugee bush-ranger +from Sydney, there was not a white man in all +Victoria. The first settler, John Batman,<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> arrived in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> +the harbour of Port Phillip as recently as the year +1835, since which time the colony has been planted, +the city of Melbourne has been built, and Victoria +covered with farms, mines, towns, and people. When Sir +Thomas Mitchell first visited the colony in 1836, though +comprehending an area of more than a hundred thousand +square miles, it did not contain 200 white people. +In 1845 the population had grown to 32,000; Melbourne +had been founded, and was beginning to grow rapidly; +now it contains a population of about 200,000 souls, +and is already the greatest city in the Southern Hemisphere.</p> + +<p>No wonder, therefore, that the population of Melbourne +should be young. It consists for the most part +of immigrants from Great Britain and other countries,—of +men and women in the prime of life,—pushing, +enterprising, energetic people. Nor is the stream of +immigration likely to stop soon. The land in the +interior is not one-tenth part occupied; and "the cry +is, still they come." Indeed many think the immigrants +do not come quickly enough. Every ship +brings a fresh batch; and the "new chums" may be +readily known, as they assemble in knots at the corners +of the streets, by their ruddy colour, their gaping +curiosity, and their home looks.</p> + +<p>Another thing that strikes me in Melbourne is this,—that +I have not seen a beggar in the place. There +is work for everybody who will work; so there is no +excuse for begging. A great many young fellows who +come out here no doubt do not meet with the fortune<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> +they think they deserve. They expected that a few +good letters of introduction were all that was necessary +to enable them to succeed. But they are soon undeceived. +They must strip to work, if they would do +any good. Mere clerks, who can write and add up +figures, are of no use; the colony is over-stocked with +them. But if they are handy, ready to work, and +willing to turn their hand to anything, they need never +be without the means of honest living.</p> + +<p>In many respects Melbourne is very like home. It +looks like a slice of England transplanted here, only +everything looks fresher and newer. Go into Fitzroy +or Carlton Gardens in the morning, and you will see +almost the self-same nurses and children that you +saw in the Parks in London. At dusk you see the +same sort of courting couples mooning about, not +knowing what next to say. In the streets you see +a corps of rifle volunteers marching along, just as at +home, on Saturday afternoons. Down at Sandridge +you see the cheap-trip steamer, decked with flags, +taking a boat-load of excursionists down the bay to +some Australian Margate or Ramsgate. On the wooden +pier the same steam-cranes are at work, loading and +unloading trucks.</p> + +<p>One thing, however, there is at Melbourne that you +cannot see in any town in England, and that is the +Chinese quarter. There the streets are narrower and +dirtier than anywhere else, and you see the yellow-faced +folks stand jabbering at their doors—a very +novel sight. The Chinamen, notwithstanding the poll-tax<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> +originally imposed on them of 10<i>l.</i> a head, have +come into Victoria in large and increasing numbers, +and before long they threaten to become a great power +in the colony. They are a very hardworking, but, it +must be confessed, a very low class, dirty people.</p> + +<p>Though many of the Chinamen give up their native +dress and adopt the European costume, more particularly +the billycock hat, there is one part of their belongings +that they do not part with even in the last extremity—and +that is their tail. They may hide it away in +their billycock or in the collar of their coat; but, +depend upon it, the tail is there. My friend, the +doctor of the 'Yorkshire,' being a hunter after natural +curiosities, had, amongst other things, a great ambition +to possess himself of a Chinaman's tail. One +day, walking up Collins Street, I met my enthusiastic +friend. He recognised me, and waved something about +frantically that he had in his hand. "I've got it! I've +got it!" he exclaimed, in a highly excited manner. +"What have you got?" I asked, wondering. "Come in +here," said he, "and I'll show it you." We turned +into a bar, when he carefully undid his parcel, and +exposed to view a long black thing. "What <i>is</i> it?" +I asked. "A Chinaman's pigtail, of course," said he, +triumphantly; "and a very rare curiosity it is, I can +assure you."</p> + +<p>Among the public institutes of Melbourne one of the +finest is the Public Library, already containing, I was +told, about 80,000 volumes. It is really a Library for +the People, and a noble one too. So far as I can learn,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> +there is nothing yet in England that can be compared +with it.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> Working men come here, and read at their +leisure scientific books, historical books, or whatever +they may desire. They may come in their working +dress, signing their names on entering, the only condition +required of them being quietness and good behaviour. +About five hundred readers use the library daily.</p> + +<p>Nor must I forget the Victorian collection of pictures, +in the same building as the Public Library. The +galleries are good, and contain many attractive paintings. +Amongst them I noticed Goodall's 'Rachel at +the Well,' Cope's 'Pilgrim Fathers' (a replica), and +some excellent specimens of Chevalier, a rising colonial +artist.</p> + +<p>The Post Office is another splendid building, one of +the most commodious institutions of the kind in the +world. There the arrival of each mail from England +is announced by the hoisting of a large red flag, with +the letter A (arrival).</p> + +<p>In evidence of the advanced "civilization" of Melbourne, +let me also describe a visit which I paid to its +gaol. But it is more than a gaol, for it is the great +penal establishment of the colony. The prison at Pentridge +is about eight miles from Melbourne. Accompanied +by a friend, I was driven thither in a covered +car along a very dusty but well-kept road. Alighting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> +at the castle-like entrance to the principal courtyard, +we passed through a small doorway, behind which was +a strong iron-bar gate, always kept locked, and watched +by a warder. The gate was unlocked, and we shortly +found ourselves in the great prison area, in the +presence of sundry men in grey prison uniform, with +heavy irons on. Passing across the large clean yard, +we make for a gate in the high granite wall at its +further side. A key is let down to us by the warder, +who is keeping armed watch in his sentry-box on the +top of the wall. We use it, let ourselves in, lock +the door, and the key is hauled up again.</p> + +<p>We enter the female prison, where we are shown +the cells, each with its small table and neatly-folded +mattress. On the table is a Bible and Prayer-book, +and sometimes a third book for amusement or instruction. +In some of the cells, where the inmates are +learning to read and write, there is a spelling primer +and a copybook for pothooks. The female prisoners +are not in their cells, but we shortly after find them +assembled in a large room above, seated and at work. +They all rose at our entrance, and I had a good look +at their faces. There was not a single decent honest +face amongst them. They were mostly heavy, square-jawed, +hard-looking women. Judging by their faces, +vice and ugliness would seem to be pretty nearly +akin.</p> + +<p>We were next taken to the centre of the prison, +from which we looked down upon the narrow, high-walled +yards, in which the prisoners condemned to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> +solitary confinement take their exercise. These yards +all radiate from a small tower, in which a warder is +stationed, carefully watching the proceedings below.</p> + +<p>We shortly saw the prisoners of Department A +coming in from their exercise in the yard. Each wore +a white mask on his face with eyeholes in it; and no +prisoner must approach another nearer than five yards, +at risk of severe punishment. The procession was a +very dismal one. In the half-light of the prison they +marched silently on one by one, with their faces hidden, +each touching his cap as he passed.</p> + +<p>Department B came next. The men here do not +work in their separate cells, like the others, but go +out to work in gangs, guarded by armed warders. The +door of each cell throughout the prison has a small +hole in it, through which the warders, who move +about the galleries in list shoes, can peep in, and, unknown +to the prisoner, see what he is about.</p> + +<p>Both male and female prisons have Black Holes +attached to them for the solitary confinement of the +refractory. Dreadful places they look: small cells +about ten feet by four, into which not a particle of +light is admitted. Three thick doors, one within +another, render it impossible for the prisoner inside +to make himself heard without.</p> + +<p>Next comes Department C, in which the men finish +their time. Here many sleep in one room, always +under strict watch, being employed during the day at +their respective trades, or going out in gangs to work +in the fields connected with the establishment. Connected<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> +with this department is a considerable factory, +with spinning-machines, weaving-frames, and dye vats; +the whole of the clothes and blankets used in the gaol +being made by the prisoners, as well as the blankets +supplied by the Government to the natives. Adjoining +are blacksmiths' shops, where manacles are forged; +shoemakers' shops; tailors' shops; a bookbinder's shop, +where the gaol books are bound; and shops for various +other crafts.</p> + +<p>The prison library is very well furnished with books. +Dickens's and Trollope's works are there, and I saw +a well-read copy of 'Self-Help,' though it was doubtless +through a very different sort of self-help that +most of the prisoners who perused it had got there.</p> + +<p>Last of all, we saw the men searched on coming in +from their work in the fields, or in the different workshops. +They all stood in a line while the warder passed +his hands down their bodies and legs, and looked into +their hats. Then he turned to a basin of water standing +by, and carefully washed his hands.</p> + +<p>There were about 700 prisoners of both sexes in the +gaol when we visited it. I was told that the walls of +the prison enclose an area of 132 acres, so that there +is abundance of space for all kinds of work. On the +whole it was a very interesting, but at the same time +a sad sight.</p> + +<p>I think very little of the River Yarra Yarra, on +which Melbourne is situated. It is a muddy, grey-coloured +stream, very unpicturesque. It has, however, +one great advantage over most other Australian rivers,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> +as indicated by its name, which in the native language +means the "ever-flowing;" many of the creeks and +rivers in Australia being dry in summer. I hired a +boat for the purpose of a row up the Yarra. A little +above the city its banks are pretty and ornamental, +especially where it passes the Botanic Gardens, which +are beautifully laid out, and well stocked with India-rubber +plants, gum-trees, and magnificent specimens of +the Southern fauna. Higher up, the river—though its +banks continue green—becomes more monotonous, and +we soon dropped back to Melbourne with the stream.</p> + +<p>It is the seaside of Melbourne that is by far the +most interesting,—Williamstown, with its shipping; +but more especially the pretty suburbs, rapidly growing +into towns, along the shores of the Bay of Port Phillip—such +as St. Kilda, Elsternwick, Brighton, and Cheltenham. +You see how they preserve the old country +names. St. Kilda is the nearest to Melbourne, being +only about three miles distant by rail, and it is the +favourite resort of the Melbourne people. Indeed, +many of the first-class business men reside there, just +as Londoners do at Blackheath and Forest Hill. The +esplanade along the beach is a fine promenade, and the +bathing along shore is exceedingly good. There are +large enclosures for bathers, surrounded by wooden +piles; above the enclosure, raised high on platforms, +are commodious dressing-rooms, where, instead of being +cooped up in an uncomfortable bathing-machine, you +may have a lounge outside in the bright sunshine while +you dress. The water is a clear blue, and there is a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> +sandy bottom sloping down from the shore into any +depth,—a glorious opportunity for swimmers!</p> + +<p>I must now tell you something of my social experiences +in Melbourne. Thanks to friends at home, I had +been plentifully supplied with letters of introduction to +people in the colony. When I spoke of these to old +colonials in the 'Yorkshire,' I was told that they were +"no good"—no better than so many "tickets for soup," +if worth even that. I was, therefore, quite prepared +for a cool reception; but, nevertheless, took the opportunity +of delivering my letters shortly after landing.</p> + +<p>So far from being received with coldness, I was +received with the greatest kindness wherever I went. +People who had never seen me before, and who knew +nothing of me or my family, gave me a welcome that +was genuine, frank, and hearty in the extreme. My +letters, I found, were far more than "tickets for soup." +They introduced me to pleasant companions and kind +friends, who entertained me hospitably, enabled me to +pass my time pleasantly, and gave me much practical +good advice. Indeed, so far as my experience goes, +the hospitality of Victoria ought to become proverbial.</p> + +<p>One of the first visits I made was to a recent school-fellow +of mine at Geneva. I found him at work in a +bank, and astonished him very much by the suddenness +of my appearance. He was most kind to me +during my stay in Melbourne, as well as all his family, +to whom I owed a succession of kindnesses which I can +never forget.</p> + +<p>I shall always retain a pleasant recollection of a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> +marriage festivity to which I was invited within a week +after my arrival. A ball was given in the evening, at +which about 300 persons were present—the <i>elite</i> of +Melbourne society. It was held in a large marquee, +with a splendid floor, and ample space for dancing. +Everything was ordered very much the same as at +home. The dresses of the ladies seemed more costly, +the music was probably not so good, though very fair, +and the supper rather better. I fancy there was no +"contract champagne" at that ball.</p> + +<p>One thing I must remark about the ladies—they +seemed to me somehow a little different in appearance. +Indeed, when I first landed, I fancied I saw a slightly +worn look, a want of freshness, in the people generally. +They told me there that it is the effect of the dry Australian +climate and the long summer heat, native-born +Australians having a tendency to grow thin and lathy. +Not that there was any want of beauty about the +Melbourne girls, or that they were not up to the mark +in personal appearance. On the contrary, there was +quite a bevy of belles, some of them extremely pretty +girls, most tastefully dressed, and I thought the twelve +bridesmaids, in white silk trimmed with blue, looked +charming.</p> + +<p>I spent a very pleasant evening with this gay company, +and had my fill of dancing after my long privation +at sea. When I began to step out, the room seemed +to be in motion. I had got so accustomed to the roll +of the ship that I still felt unsteady, and when I put +my foot down it went further than I expected before it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> +touched the floor. But I soon got quit of my sea legs, +which I had so much difficulty in finding.</p> + +<p>Before concluding my few Melbourne experiences, I +will mention another of a very different character from +the above. I was invited to spend the following +Saturday and Sunday with a gentleman and his family. +I was punctual to my appointment, and was driven by +my carman up to the door of a new house in a very +pretty situation. I was shown into the drawing-room, +where I waited some time for the mistress of the +house to make her appearance. She was a matronly +person, with a bland smile on her countenance. Her +dress was of a uniform grey, with trimmings of the +same colour. We tried conversation, but somehow it +failed. I fear my remarks were more meaningless +than usual on such occasions. Certainly the lady and +I did not hit it at all. She asked me if I had heard +such and such a Scotch minister, or had read somebody's +sermons which she named? Alas! I had not +so much as heard of their names. Judging by her +looks, she must have thought me an ignoramus. For a +mortal hour we sat together, almost in silence, her eyes +occasionally directed full upon me. We were for the +moment relieved by the entrance of a young lady, one +of the daughters of the house, who was introduced to +me. But, alas! we got on no better than before. The +young lady sat with downcast eyes, intent upon her +knitting, though I saw that her eyes were black, and +that she was pretty.</p> + +<p>Then the master of the house came home, and we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> +had dinner in a quiet, sober fashion. In the evening +the lady and I made a few further efforts at conversation. +I was looking at the books on the drawing-room +table, when she all at once brightened up, and asked—"Have +you ever heard of Robbie Burns?" I answered +(I fear rather chaffingly) that "I had once heard there +was such a person." "Have you, tho'?" said the lady, +relapsing into crochet. The gentleman went off to sleep, +and the young lady continued absorbed in her knitting. +A little later in the evening the hostess made a further +effort. "Have you ever tasted whisky toddy?" To +which I answered, "Yes, once or twice," at which she +seemed astonished. But the whisky toddy, which might +have put a little spirit into the evening, did not make +its appearance. The subject of the recent marriage +festivity having come up, the lady was amazed to find I +had been there, and that I was fond of dancing! I fear +this sent me down a great many more pegs in her estimation. +In fact, my evening was a total failure, and I +was glad to get to bed—though it was an immense +expanse of bed, big enough for a dozen people.</p> + +<p>To make a long story short, next morning I went +with the family to "the kirk," heard an awfully long +sermon, during which I nipped my fingers to keep +myself awake; and as soon as I could I made my +escape back to my lodgings, very well pleased to get +away, but feeling that I must have left a very unfavourable +impression upon the minds of my worthy +entertainers.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Mr. Batman died in September, +1869, at the age of 77, and +his funeral was one of the largest +ever seen in Melbourne. This +"father of Melbourne" kept the +first store, and published the first +newspaper in the settlement.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> The public library was inaugurated +under Mr. La Trobe's +Government in 1853, when 4,000<i>l.</i> +was voted for books and an edifice. +The sum was doubled in the following +year, and greatly increased +in succeeding years. In 1863, +40,000<i>l.</i> of public money had been +expended on the building, and +30,000<i>l.</i> on the library.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> + +<h3>UP COUNTRY.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Obtain a Situation in an Up-country Bank</span>—<span class="smcap">Journey by Rail</span>—<span class="smcap">Castlemaine</span>—<span class="smcap">Further +Journey by Coach</span>—<span class="smcap">Maryborough</span>—<span class="smcap">First +Sight of the Bush</span>—<span class="smcap">The Bush Tracks</span>—<span class="smcap">Evening Prospect +over the Country</span>—<span class="smcap">Arrival at my Destination</span>.</p> + + +<p>I had now been in Melbourne some weeks, and the +question arose—What next? I found the living rather +expensive, and that it was making a steady drain upon +my funds. I had the option of a passage home, or of +staying in the colony if I could find some employment +wherewith to occupy myself profitably in the meanwhile. +But I could not remain much longer idle, +merely going about visiting and enjoying myself.</p> + +<p>I took an opportunity of consulting the eminent +physician, Dr. Halford, who pronounced my lungs +sound, but recommended me, because of the sudden +changes of temperature to which Melbourne is liable, +either to return home immediately, in order to establish +the benefit I had derived from the voyage, or, if I +remained, to proceed up country, north of the Dividing +Range, where the temperature is more equable.</p> + +<p>I accordingly determined to make the attempt to +obtain some settled employment in the colony that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> +might enable me to remain in it a little longer. I +found that there were many fellows, older and more +experienced than myself, who had been knocking about +Melbourne for some time, unable to find berths. It +is quite natural that the young men of the colony, +desirous of entering merchants' houses, banks, or insurance +offices, should have the preference over new +comers; and hence those young men who come here, +expecting to drop into clerk's offices, soon find themselves +<i>de trop</i>, and that they are a drug in the +market.</p> + +<p>The prospect of obtaining such employment in my +own case did not, therefore, look very bright; yet I +could but try and fail, as others had done. In the last +event there was the passage home, of which I could +avail myself. Well, I tried, and tried again, and at last +succeeded, thanks to the friendly gentlemen in Melbourne +who so kindly interested themselves in my +behalf. In my case luck must have helped me: for I +am sure I did not owe my success to any special knowledge. +But happy I was when, after a great deal of +running about, it was at length communicated to me +that there was a vacancy in an up-country branch of +one of the principal colonial banking companies, which +was open to my acceptance.</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span></p> + +<p class="figcenter" style="width: 379px;"><a href="images/image078-lg.png"> +<img src="images/image078.png" width="379" height="600" alt="Map of the Gold-Mining District, Victoria." title="Map of the Gold-Mining District, Victoria." /> +</a><span class="caption">Map of the Gold-Mining District, Victoria.</span> +</p> + +<p>I took the position at once, and made my arrangements +for starting to enter upon the duties of the office +forthwith. I of course knew nothing of the country in +which the branch bank was situated, excepting that it +was in what is called a digging township—that is, a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> +township in which digging for gold is the principal +branch of industry. When I told my companions what +occupation I had before me, and where I was going, +they tried to frighten me. They pictured to me a +remote place, with a few huts standing on a gravelly +hill, surrounded by holes and pools of mud. "A +wretched life you will lead up there," they said; +"depend upon it, you will never be able to bear it, +and we shall see you back in Melbourne within a +month, disgusted with up-country life." "Well, we +shall see," I said: "I am resolved to give it a fair +trial, and in the worst event I can go home by the +next Money Wigram."</p> + +<p>After the lapse of two days from the date of my +appointment, I was at the Spencer Street Station of +the Victoria Railway, and booked for Castlemaine, a +station about eighty miles from Melbourne. Two of +my fellow-passengers by the 'Yorkshire' were there +to see me off, wishing me all manner of kind things. +Another parting, and I was off up-country. What +would it be like? What sort of people were they +amongst whom I was to live? What were to be my +next experiences?</p> + +<p>We sped rapidly over the flat, lowly-undulating, +and comparatively monotonous country north of Melbourne, +until we reached the Dividing Range, a mountainous +chain, covered with dark-green scrub, separating +Bourke from Dalhousie County, where the scenery +became more varied and interesting.</p> + +<p>In the railway-carriage with me was a boy of about<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> +twelve or fourteen, who at once detected in me a "new +chum," as recent arrivals in the colony are called. +We entered into conversation, when I found he was +going to Castlemaine, where he lived. He described it +as a large up-country town, second only to Ballarat and +Melbourne. But I was soon about to see the place with +my own eyes, for we were already approaching it; and +before long I was set down at the Castlemaine Station, +from whence I was to proceed to my destination by +coach.</p> + +<p>The town of Castlemaine by no means came up to +the description of my travelling companion. Perhaps +I had expected too much, and was disappointed. The +place is built on the site of what was once a very great +rush, called Forest Creek. Gold was found in considerable +abundance, and attracted a vast population +into the neighbourhood. But other and richer fields +having been discovered, the rush went elsewhere, +leaving behind it the deposit of houses now known as +Castlemaine.<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> It contains but few streets, and those +not very good ones. The houses are mostly small and +low; the greater number are only one-storied erections. +Everything was quiet, with very little traffic going on, +and the streets had a most dead-alive look.</p> + +<p>The outskirts of the town presented a novel appearance. +Small heaps of gravelly soil, of a light-red +colour, lying close to each other, covered the +ground in all directions, almost as far as the eye could<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> +reach. The whole country seemed to have been turned +over, dug about, and abandoned; though I still observed +here and there pools of red muddy water, and +a few men digging, searching for gold amongst the +old workings.</p> + +<p>I put up at one of the hotels, to wait there until the +coach started at midnight. The place was very dull, +the streets were very dull, and everybody seemed to +have gone to bed. At length the hours passed, and the +coach drew up. It was an odd-looking vehicle, drawn +by four horses. The body was simply hung on by +straps, innocent of springs. There were no windows +to the carriage, but only leather aprons in their place. +This looked rather like rough travelling.</p> + +<p>Away we went at last, at a good pace, over a tolerably +good road. Soon, however, we began to jolt and +pitch about, the carriage rolling and rocking from side +to side. There was only one passenger besides myself, +a solitary female, who sat opposite to me. I held on +tight to the woodwork of the coach, but, notwithstanding +all my efforts, I got pitched into the lady's +lap more than once. She seemed to take it all +very coolly, however, as if it were a mere matter of +course.</p> + +<p>After changing horses twice, and after a good deal +more jolting, the road became better and smoother; +and then I observed, from the signs outside, that we +were approaching a considerable place. I was told that +it was Maryborough, and shortly after the coach pulled +up at the door of an hotel and I alighted. It was now<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> +between four and five in the morning, so I turned into +bed and had a sound sleep.</p> + +<p>I was wakened up by a young gentleman, who introduced +himself to me as one of my future "camarades" +in the bank, to whom my arrival had been telegraphed. +After making a good breakfast I stepped on to the +verandah in front of the hotel, and the high street of +Maryborough lay before me. It seemed a nice, tidy +town. The streets were white and clean; the shops, +now open, were some of brick, and others of wood. +The hotel in which I had slept was a two-storied brick +building. Two banks were in the main street, one of +them a good building. Everything looked spic-and-span +new, very unlike our old-fashioned English country +towns.</p> + +<p>The township to which I was destined being distant +about six miles from Maryborough, I was driven thither +in the evening,—full of wonderment and curiosity as +to the place to which I was bound. As we got outside +Maryborough into the open country, its appearance +struck me very much. It was the first time I had +been amongst the gum-trees, which grow so freely in +all the southern parts of Australia.</p> + +<p>For a short distance out of the town the road was a +made one, passing through some old workings, shown +by the big holes and heaps of gravel that lay about. +Further on, it became a mere hardened track, through +amongst trees and bushes, each driver choosing his own +track. As soon as one becomes the worse for wear, +and the ruts in it are worn too deep, a new one is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> +selected. Some of these old ruts have a very ugly look. +Occasionally we pass a cottage with a garden, but no +village is in sight. The brown trees have a forlorn +look; the pointed leaves seem hardly to cover them. +The bushes, too, that grow by the road-side, seem +straggling and scraggy: but, then, I must remember +that it is winter-time in Australia.</p> + +<p>At length we reach the top of a hill, from which +there is a fine view of the country beyond. I have a +vivid recollection of my first glimpse of a landscape +which afterwards became so familiar to me. The dark +green trees stretched down into the valley and clothed +the undulating ground which lay toward the right. +Then, on the greener and flatter-looking country in +front, there seemed to extend a sort of whitish line—something +that I could not quite make out. At first I +thought it must be a town in the distance, with its +large white houses. In the blue of the evening I +could not then discern that what I took to be houses +were simply heaps of pipeclay. Further off, and beyond +all, was a background of brown hills, fading +away in the distance. Though it was winter time, +the air was bright and clear, and the blue sky was +speckled with fleecy clouds.</p> + +<p>But we soon lose sight of the distant scene, as we +rattle along through the dust down-hill. We reach +another piece of made road, indicating our approach to +a town; and very shortly we arrive at a small township +close by a creek. We pass a shed, in which +stampers are at work, driven by steam,—it is a quartz-mill;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> +then a blacksmith's shop; then an hotel, and +other houses. I supposed this was to be my location; +but, no! The driver turns sharp off the high road +down towards the creek. It is a narrow stream of +dirty-coloured water, trickling along between two high +banks. We drive down the steep on one side and up +the other with a tremendous pull, the buggy leaning +heavily to one side. On again, over a crab-holey +plain, taking care to avoid the stumps of trees and +bad ground. Now we are in amongst the piles of dirt +which mark abandoned diggings.</p> + +<p>Another short bit of made road, and we are in the +township. It is still sufficiently light to enable me to +read "Council Chambers" over the door of a white-painted, +shed-like, wooden erection of one story. Then +up the street, past the shops with their large canvas +signs, until at length we pull up alongside a wooden +one-storied house, roofed with iron, and a large wooden +verandah projecting over the pathway in front. The +signboard over the door tells me this is the Bank. I +have reached my destination, and am safely landed in +the town of Majorca.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Before railways were introduced, +the town was a great depôt +for goods going up-country to the +different diggings.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2> + +<h3>MAJORCA.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Majorca Founded in a Rush</span>—<span class="smcap">Description of a Rush</span>—<span class="smcap">Diggers +Camping Out</span>—<span class="smcap">Gold-mining at Majorca</span>—<span class="smcap">Majorca High +Street</span>—<span class="smcap">The People</span>—<span class="smcap">The Inns</span>—<span class="smcap">The Churches</span>—<span class="smcap">The Bank</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Chinamen</span>—<span class="smcap">Australia the Paradise of Working Men</span>—<span class="smcap">"Shouting" +for Drinks</span>—<span class="smcap">Absence of Beggars</span>—<span class="smcap">No Coppers +up Country</span>.</p> + + +<p>In my school-days Majorca was associated in my mind +with "Minorca and Ivica," and I little thought to encounter +a place of that name in Australia. It seems +that the town was originally so called because of its +vicinity to a rocky point called Gibraltar, where gold +had been found some time before. Like many other +towns up country, the founding of Majorca was the +result of a rush.</p> + +<p>In the early days of gold-digging, when men were +flocking into the colony to hunt for treasure, so soon +as the news got abroad of a great nugget being found +by some lucky adventurers, or of some rich gold-bearing +strata being struck, there was a sudden rush from all +quarters to the favoured spot. Such a rush occurred +at Majorca in the year 1863.</p> + +<p>Let me try to describe the scene in those early days +of the township, as it has been related to me by those<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> +who witnessed it. Fancy from fourteen to fifteen thousand +diggers suddenly drawn together in one locality, +and camped out in the bush within a radius of a mile +and a half.</p> + +<p>A great rush is a scene of much bustle and excitement. +Long lines of white tents overtop the heaps of +pipeclay, which grow higher from day to day. The +men are hard at work on these hills of "mullock," +plying the windlasses by which the stuff is brought up +from below, or puddling and washing off "the dirt." +Up come the buckets from the shafts, down which +the diggers are working, and the dirty yellow water is +poured down-hill to find its way to the creek as it best +may. Unmade roads, or rather tracks, run in and out +amongst the claims, knee-deep in mud; the ground +being kept in a state of constant sloppiness by the +perpetual washing for the gold. Perhaps there is a +fight going on over the boundary-pegs of a claim +which have been squashed by a heavy dray passing +along, laden with stores from Castlemaine.</p> + +<p>The miners are attended by all manner of straggling +followers, like the sutlers following a camp. +The life is a very rough one: hard work and hard +beds, heavy eating and heavy drinking. The diggers +mostly live in tents, for they are at first too much +engrossed by their search for gold to run up huts; +but many of them sleep in the open air or under the +shelter of the trees. A pilot-coat or a pea-jacket is +protection enough for those who do not enjoy the +luxury of a tent; but the dryness and geniality of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> +climate are such that injury is very rarely experienced +from the night exposure. There are very few women +at the first opening of new diggings, the life is too +rough and rude; and some of those who do come, rock +the cradle—but not the household one—with the men. +The diggers, however genteel the life they may have +led before, soon acquire a dirty, rough, unshaven look. +Their coarse clothes are all of a colour, being that of +the clay and gravel in which they work, and the mud +with which they become covered when digging.</p> + +<p>There is a crowd of men at an open bar drinking. +Bar, indeed! It is but a plank supported on two +barrels; and across this improvised counter the brandy +bottle and glasses are eagerly plied. A couple of old +boxes in front serve for seats, while a piece of canvas, +rigged on two poles, shades off the fierce sun. Many +a large fortune has been made at a rude bar of this +sort. For too many of the diggers, though they work +like horses, spend like asses. Here, again, in the +long main street of tents, where the shafts are often +uncomfortably close to the road, the tradesmen are +doing a roaring business. Stalwart men, with stout +appetites, are laying in their stores of grocery, buying +pounds of flour, sugar, and butter—meat and bread in +great quantities. The digger thrusts his parcels indiscriminately +into the breast of his dirty jumper, a thick +shirt; and away he goes, stuffed with groceries, and +perhaps a leg of mutton over his shoulder. In the +evening some four thousand camp fires in the valleys, +along the gullies, and up the sides of the hills, cast a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> +lurid light over a scene, which, once witnessed, can +never be forgotten.</p> + +<p>There were, of course, the usual rowdies at Majorca +as at other rushes. But very soon a rough discipline +was set up and held them in check; then a local +government was formed; and eventually order was +established. Although the neighbouring towns look +down on "little Majorca"—say it is the last place made—and +tell of the riotous doings at its first settlement, +Majorca is quoted by Brough Smyth, whose book on +the gold-fields is the best authority on the subject, +as having been a comparatively orderly place, even in +the earliest days of the rush. He says, "Shortly after +the workings were opened, it presented a scene of busy +industry, where there was more of order, decency, and +good behaviour than could probably be found in any +mining locality in England, or on the Continent of +Europe."<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a></p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span></p> + +<p>The contrast, however, must be very great between +the Majorca of to-day and the Majorca of seven years +since, when it was a great gold-diggers' camp. It had +its first burst, like all other celebrated places in the +gold-fields. As the shallower and richer ground became +worked out, the diggers moved off to some new +diggings, and the first glories of the Majorca rush gradually +passed away. Still, the place continued prosperous. +The mining was carried down into deeper strata. +But after a few years, the yield fell off, and the engines +were gradually withdrawn. Some few claims are doing +well in new offshoots of the lead, and the miners are +vigorously following it up. Two engine companies are +pushing ahead and hoping for better things. Over at +the other side of the creek, in amongst the ranges, +there is still plenty of fair yielding quartz, which is +being got out of mother earth; and the miners consider +that they have very fair prospects before them.<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p> + +<p>Indeed, Majorca has subsided into a comparatively +quiet country place, containing about 800 inhabitants. +It is supported in a great measure by the adjoining +farming population. And I observed, during my stay +at the place, that the more prudent of the miners,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> +when they had saved a few hundred pounds—and +some saved much more—usually retired from active +digging, and took to farming. The town consists, +for the most part, of one long street, situated on a +rising ground. There are not many buildings of importance +in it. The houses are mostly of wood, one-storied, +and roofed with corrugated iron. There is +only one brick shop-front in the street, which so over-tops +the others, that malicious, perhaps envious, neighbours +say it is sure to topple down some day on to +the footway. The shops are of the usual description, +grocers, bakers, butchers, and drapers; and the most +frequent style of shop is a store, containing everything +from a pickaxe and tin dish (for gold washing) to +Perry Davis's patent Pain-killer. We have of course +our inns—the Imperial, where the manager of the +bank and myself lived; the Harp of Erin, the Irish +rendezvous, as its name imports, even its bar-room +being papered with green; the German Hotel, where +the Verein is held, and over which the German tri-coloured +flag floats on fête-days; and there is also a +Swiss restaurant, the Guillaume Tell, with the Swiss +flag and cap of liberty painted on its white front.</p> + +<p>I must also mention the churches, standing off the +main street, which are the most prominent buildings +in Majorca. The largest is the Wesleyan Chapel, a +substantial brick building, near which still stands the +old wooden shanty first erected and used in the time +of the rush. Then there is the Church of England, +a neat though plain edifice, well fitted and arranged.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> +The Presbyterians worship in a battered-looking wooden +erection; and the Roman Catholics have a shed-like +place, which in week days is used as a school.</p> + +<p>Our inns and our churches will give you some idea +of the population of Majorca. I should say the +most of it—the substance—is English. The Irish are +hard workers, but generally spendthrifts, though there +are some excellent exceptions. The Irish hold together +in religion, politics, and drink. The Scotch are not +so numerous as the Irish, but somehow they have +a knack of getting on. They are not clannish like +the Irish. Each hangs by his own hook. Then there +are the Germans, who are pretty numerous, a very +respectable body of men, with a sprinkling of Italians +and Swiss. The Germans keep up their old country +fashions, hold their Verein, meet and make speeches, +sing songs, smoke pipes, and drink thin wine. Lager-beer +has not reached them yet.</p> + +<p>The building in Majorca in which I am, of course, +most of all interested, is that in which I officiate as +"Accountant," the only other officer in the bank being +the "Manager." You will thus observe that there +are only officers in our establishment—all rank and +no file. Let me give you an idea of our building. +Its walls are wooden, with canvas inside, and its roof +is of corrugated iron. The office fronts the main +street, and is fitted with a plain counter facing the +door, at one end of which are the gold-weighing scales, +and at the other the ledger-desk. Two rooms are +attached to the office, in which we sleep,—one behind,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> +the other at the side. There is a pretty little garden +in the rear, a verandah covered with a thickly growing +Australian creeper (the Dolichos), sheltering us as we +sit out there occasionally, enjoying the quiet cool of +the evenings, reading or talking.</p> + +<p>You will thus observe that our establishment is by +no means of a stately order.<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> Indeed the place is not +weather-proof. When the wind blows, the canvas +inside the boards flaps about, and, in my queer little +sleeping-room, when the rain falls it runs down the +sides of the canvas walls, and leaves large stains upon +the gay paper. But I contrived to make the little +place look tolerably comfortable; hung it round with +photographs reminding me of relations and friends at +home, and at length I came quite to enjoy my little +retreat.</p> + +<p>A look up and down the main street of Majorca is +not particularly lively at any time. Some of the shop-keepers +are in front of their stores, standing about +under the verandahs which cover the pathway, and +lazily enjoying a pipe. At the upper end of the town +the blacksmith is busily at work shoeing some farmer's +horses, in front of the blazing smithy fire. Five or +six diggers come slouching along, just from their work, +in their mud-bespattered trowsers and their shirt +sleeves, a pick or spade over their shoulders, and a tin +"billy" in their hands. But for the occasional rattle<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> +of a cart or buggy down the street, the town would be +lapped in quiet.</p> + +<p>Here comes a John Chinaman with his big basket +of vegetables. And let me tell you that the Chinamen, +who live in the neighbourhood of the town, form +no unimportant part of our community. But for them +where should we be for our cabbages, cauliflowers, +and early potatoes? They are the most indefatigable +and successful of gardeners. Every morning three or +four of them are seen coming into the town from their +large gardens near the creek, each with a pole across +his shoulders, and a heavily laden basket hanging from +each end. What tremendous loads they contrive to +carry in this way! Try to lift one of their baskets, +and you will find you can hardly raise it from the +ground. Then you see the "Johns" moving along +from house to house, selling their stuffs. It takes a +very clever woman to get the better of one of the +Chinamen in a bargain. I found, by watching closely, +that those got best off who chose what they wanted +out of the basket, paid what they thought a fair price, +and stuck to their purchase. John would at last +agree, but go away grumbling.</p> + +<p>Of course there is not much in the way of what is +called "society" at this place. Like all the new towns +in Australia, it consists for the most part of a settlement +of working people. Australia may, however, be regarded +as the paradise of working men, when they choose to +avail themselves of the advantages which it offers. +Here there is always plenty of profitable work for the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> +industrious. Even Chinamen get rich. The better +sort of working families live far more comfortably than +our clerking or business young men do at home. The +respectable workman belongs to the Mechanics' Institute, +where there is a very good circulating library; he +dresses well on Sundays, and goes to church; hires a +horse and takes a pleasure ride into the bush on +holidays; puts money in the bank, and when he has +accumulated a fund, builds a house for himself, or buys +a lot of land and takes to farming. Any steady working +man can do all this here, and without any difficulty.</p> + +<p>Where the digger or mechanic does not thrive and +save money, the fault is entirely due to his own improvidence. +Living is cheap. Clothes are dear, but the +workman does not need to wear expensive clothes; and +food is reasonable. Good mutton sells at 3<i>d.</i> a pound, +and bread at 6<i>d.</i> the four pound loaf. Thanks to the +Chinamen also, vegetables are moderate in price. Every +one may, therefore, save money if he has the mind to +do so. But many spendthrifts seem to feel it a sort of +necessity to throw away their money as soon as they +have earned it. Of course, the chief source of waste +here, as at home, is drink. There is constant "shouting" +for drinks—that is, giving drinks all round to my acquaintances +who may be present. And as one shouts, +so another follows with his shout, and thus a great deal +of drink is swallowed. Yet, I must say that, though +there may be more drinking here than in England, +there is much less drunkenness. I have very seldom +seen a man really drunk during my stay in Majorca.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> +Perhaps the pure dry atmosphere may have something +to do with it. But often, also, when there is a shout, +the call of many may be only for lemonade, or some +simple beverage of that sort. It must also be stated, +as a plea for men resorting so much as they do to +public-houses, that there are few other places where +they can meet and exchange talk with each other.</p> + +<p>That everybody may thrive here who will, is evident +from the utter absence of beggars in Australia. I +have not seen one regular practitioner. An occasional +"tramp" may be encountered hard up, and in search of +work. He may ask for assistance. He can have a glass +of beer at a bar, with a crust of bread, by asking for it. +And he goes on his way, most likely getting the employment +of which he is in search at the next township. +The only beggars I ever encountered at Majorca are +genteel ones—the people who come round with lists, +asking for subscriptions in aid of bazaars for the building +of churches and the like. Nor did I find much +of that horrid "tipping" which is such a nuisance in +England. You may "shout" a liquor if you choose, +but "tipping" would be considered an insult.</p> + +<p>There is an almost entire absence of coppers up +country; the lowest change is a threepenny bit, and +you cannot well spend anything under a sixpence. I +never had any copper in my pocket, except only a +lucky farthing. Many asked me for it, to keep as a +curiosity, saying they had never seen one since they +left home. But I would not part with my farthing.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> The following is from Mr. +Brough Smyth's book:— +</p> +<div class="blockquot"><p>"I need only now speak of Majorca. +Here a prospecting shaft +was bottomed in the beginning of +March, 1863, in the middle of a +very extensive plain, known as +M'Cullum's Creek Plain. The +depth of the shaft was 85 feet, +through thick clay, gravel, and +cement. The wash-dirt was white +gravel, intermixed with heavy +boulders, on a soft pipeclay bottom; +its thickness being from 2 to 3 feet. +It averaged in some places 3 oz. to +the load. Finally, a rush set in, +and before three months had +elapsed there were more than +15,000 miners on the ground. The +sinking became deeper as the work +went on, and was so wet that +whims had to be erected; and at +one time, in 1865, over 170 might +have been seen at work, both night +and day. Subsequently steam +machinery was procured, and now +no less than ten engines, varying +from 15- to 20-horse power, are +constantly employed in pumping, +winding, and puddling. The lead +in its lower part is 160 feet in +depth, and is evidently extending +towards the Carisbrook, Moolart, +and Charlotte plains, where so +much is expected by all scientific +men."—<i>Mr. E. O'Farrell, formerly +Chairman of the Mining Board of +the Maryborough District.—Brough +Smyth</i>, pp. 98, 99. +</p></div></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> Since my return home, letters +from Majorca inform me that +things have recently taken a turn +for the better. Several of the +alluvial mining companies are +getting gold in increased quantities. +New shafts have been bottomed +on rich ground, and the +remittances of gold are gradually +on the increase.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> Since I left Majorca a neat +and substantial brick building has +been erected for the purposes of +the bank, in lieu of the former +wooden structure.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2> + +<h3>MY NEIGHBOURHOOD AND NEIGHBOURS.</h3> + +<p>"<span class="smcap">Dining out</span>"—<span class="smcap">Diggers' Sunday Dinner</span>—<span class="smcap">The Old Workings</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Chinamen's Gardens</span>—<span class="smcap">Chinamen's Dwellings</span>—<span class="smcap">The Cemetery</span>—<span class="smcap">The +High Plains</span>—<span class="smcap">The Bush</span>—<span class="smcap">A Ride through the +Bush</span>—<span class="smcap">The Savoyard Woodcutter</span>—<span class="smcap">Visit to a Squatter</span>.</p> + + +<p>There is no difficulty in making friends in Victoria. +New chums from home are always made welcome. +They are invited out and hospitably entertained by +people of all classes. But for the many kind friends +I made in Majorca and its neighbourhood I should +doubtless have spent a very dull time there. As it +was, the eighteen months I lived up country passed +pleasantly and happily.</p> + +<p>The very first Sunday I spent in Majorca I "dined +out." I had no letters of introduction, and therefore +did not owe my dinner to influence, but to mere free-and-easy +hospitality. Nor did the party with which I +dined belong to the first circles, where letters of introduction +are of any use; for they were only a party of +diggers. I will explain how it happened.</p> + +<p>After church my manager invited me to a short walk +in the neighbourhood. We went in the direction of +M'Cullum's Creek, about a mile distant. This was the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> +village at the creek which I passed on the evening of +my first drive from Maryborough. Crossing the creek, +we went up into the range of high ground beyond; and +from the top of the hill we had a fine view of the +surrounding country. Majorca lay below, glistening +amidst its hillocks of pipeclay. The atmosphere was +clear, and the sky blue and cloudless. Though the town +was two miles distant, I could read some of the names +on the large canvas sign-boards over the hotel doors; +and with the help of an opera-glass, I easily distinguished +the windows of a house six miles off. The day +was fine and warm, though it was mid-winter in June; +for it must be borne in mind that the seasons are +reversed in this southern hemisphere.</p> + +<p>Descending the farther side of the hill, we dropped into +a gully, where we shortly came upon a little collection of +huts roofed with shingle. The residents were outside, +some amusing themselves with a cricket-ball, while +others were superintending the cooking of their dinners +at open fires outside the huts. One of the men having +recognized my companion, a conversation took place, +which was followed by an invitation to join them at +dinner. As we were getting rather peckish after our +walk, we readily accepted their offered hospitality. +The mates took turn and turn about at the cooking, +and when dinner was pronounced to be ready, we went +into the hut.</p> + +<p>The place was partitioned off into two rooms, one +of which was a sleeping apartment, and the other +the dining-room. It was papered with a gay-coloured<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> +paper, and photographs of friends were stuck up +against the wall. We were asked to be seated. To +accommodate the strangers, an empty box and a +billet of wood were introduced from the outside. I +could not say the table was laid, for it was guiltless +of a table-cloth; indeed all the appointments were +rather rough. When we were seated, one of the +mates, who acted as waiter, brought in the smoking +dishes from the fire outside, and set them before us. +The dinner consisted of roast beef and cauliflower, and +a capital dinner it was, for our appetites were keen, +and hunger is the best of sauces. We were told that +on Sundays the men usually had pudding; but "Bill," +who was the cook that week, was pronounced to be "no +hand at a plum duff." We contrived, however, to do +very well without it.</p> + +<p>I afterwards found that the men were very steady +fellows—three of them English and one a German. +They worked at an adjoining claim; and often afterwards +I saw them at our bank, selling their gold, or +depositing their savings.</p> + +<p>After dinner we had a ramble through the bush with +our hosts, and then, towards dusk, we wended our way +back to the township. Such was my first experience of +diggers' hospitality in Australia, and it was by no +means the last.</p> + +<p>Another afternoon we made an excursion to the +Chinamen's gardens, which lie up the creek, under +the rocky point of Gibraltar, about a mile and a half +distant from the township. We went through the lead—that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> +is, the course which the gold takes underground, +and which can be traced by the old workings. Where +the gold lies from five to seven feet beneath the surface, +the whole ground is turned over to get at it. But +where the gold-bearing stratum lies from fifty to two +hundred feet deep, and shafts have to be sunk, the +remains of the old workings present a very different +appearance. Then mounds of white clay and gravel, +from twenty to forty feet high, lie close together—sometimes +not more than fifteen feet apart. Climb +up to the top of one of these mounds, and you can see +down the deserted shaft which formerly led to the +working ground below. Look round; see the immense +quantity of heaps, and the extent of ground they cover, +almost as far as the eye can reach up the lead, and +imagine the busy scene which the place must have +presented in the earlier days of the rush, when each of +these shafts was fitted with its windlass, and each +mound was covered with toiling men. In one place a +couple of engine-sheds still remain, a gaunt erection +supporting the water-tanks; the poppet-heads towering +above all, still fitted with the wheels that helped to +bring the gold to the surface. How deserted and desolate +the place looks! An abandoned rush must be as +melancholy a sight to a miner as a deserted city to a +townsman. But all is not dead yet. Not far off you +can see jets of white steam coming up from behind +the high white mounds on the new lead, showing that +miners are still actually at work in the neighbourhood; +nor are they working without hope.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span></p> + +<p>Passing through the abandoned claims, we shortly +found ourselves on the brow of the hill overlooking +the Chinamen's gardens, of which we had come in +search, and, dipping into the valley, we were soon +in front of them. They are wonderfully neat and +well kept. The oblong beds are raised some ten +inches above the level of the walks, and the light and +loamy earth is kept in first-rate condition. The Chinamen +are far less particular about their huts, which +are both poor and frail. Some of them are merely of +canvas, propped up by gum-tree branches, to protect +them from the wind and weather. But John has more +substantial dwellings than these, for here, I observe, is +a neat little cluster of huts, one in the centre being a +well-constructed weatherboard, with a real four-paned +glass window in it.</p> + +<p>Crossing the ditch surrounding the gardens upon a +tottering plank, and opening the little gate, we went +in. The Chinamen were, as usual, busily at work. +Some were hoeing the light soil, and others, squatted +on their haunches, were weeding. They looked up +and wished us "Good evening" as we passed along. +Near the creek, which bounded one end of the ground, +a John was hauling up water from the well; I took a +turn at the windlass, and must confess that I found the +work very hard.</p> + +<p>The young vegetables are reared with the greatest +care, and each plant is sedulously watched and attended +to. Here is a John, down on his haunches, with a +pot of white mixture and a home-manufactured brush,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> +painting over the tender leaves of some young cabbages, +to save them from blight. He has to go through +some hundreds of them in this way. Making our way +into one of the larger huts, we stroll into the open +door, and ask a more important-looking man if he has +any water-melon? We get a splendid one for "four-pin," +and have a delicious "<i>gouter</i>." Our host—a little, +dry, withered-up fellow, dressed in a soiled blue cotton +jacket, and wide trowsers which flap about his ankles—collects +the rind for his fowls. The hard-beaten ground +is the only flooring of the hut, and the roof is simply of +bark.</p> + +<p>In one of the corners of the cabin was a most +peculiar-looking affair, very like a Punch and Judy +show. On the proscenium, as it were, large Chinese +letters were painted. Inside was an image or idol (the +joss), carved in wood, with gorgeous gilded paper stuck +all round him. A small crowd of diminutive Chinamen +knelt before him, doing homage. On the ledge +before the little stage was a glass of <i>porter</i> for the +idol to drink, and some rice and fruit to satisfy his +appetite. Numerous Chinese candles, like our wax +tapers, were put up all round inside, and the show, +when lit up, must have looked very curious.</p> + +<p>The Chinamen are always pleased at any notice +taken of their houses, so we penetrated a little further +into the dwelling. In one little room we found a young +fellow reading a Chinese book with English words +opposite the characters. It seemed a sort of primer or +word-book. My friend having asked the Chinaman to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> +give us some music on an instrument hanging above +him, which looked something like our banjo, he proceeded +to give us some celestial melodies. The tunes +were not bad, being in quick time, not unlike an Irish +jig, but the chords were most strange. He next played +a tune on the Chinese fiddle, very thin and squeaky. +The fiddle consists of a long, straight piece of wood, with +a cross-piece fixed on to the end of it. Two strings +stretch from the tip of the cross-piece to the end of +the long piece. The instrument is rested on the knee, +and the gut of the bow, which is between the two +strings, is drawn first across one and then the other. +An invisible vocalist, in the adjoining cabin, gave us +a song to the accompaniment of the violin. I should +imagine that it was a sentimental song, as it sounded +very doleful; it must surely have been the tune that +the old cow died of!</p> + +<p>We were now in the bedroom, which was a most +quaint affair. You must not imagine that the Chinamen +sleep on beds at all—at least the Chinamen here +do not. A wooden stretcher, covered with fine straw +matting, is sufficient for their purpose. The room was +lit by a small window; the walls were decorated with +a picture or two from the 'Illustrated London News,' +placed side by side with Chinese likenesses of charming +small-footed ladies, gaudily dressed in blues and +yellows.</p> + +<p>In another adjoining hut we found a Chinaman +whom we knew,—a man who comes to the bank +occasionally to sell us gold. He was cooking his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> +supper, squatting over the fire, with an old frying-pan +containing something that looked very like dried +worms frizzling in fat. "Welly good" he told us +it was; and very good he seemed to be making +it, as he added slice after slice of cucumber to the +mixture. John showed us the little worm-like things +before they were put in the pan, and he told us they +came "all the way Canton." He offered us, by way of +refreshment, his very last drop of liquor from a bottle +that was labelled, "Burnett's Fine Old Tom," which he +kept, I suppose, for his private consumption. John's +mates shortly after came in to their meal, when we +retired—I with a cucumber in my pocket, which he +gave me as a present, and a very good one it was. I +often afterwards went over to see the Chinamen, they +were so quaint and funny in their ways.</p> + +<p>I observe that in the cemetery the Chinamen have +a separate piece of burying-ground apportioned to +them. There their bodies are interred; but only to be +dug up again, enclosed in boxes, and returned to China +for final burial; the prejudice said to prevail amongst +them being that if their bones do not rest in China +their souls cannot enter Paradise. Not only are they +careful that their bodies, but even that bits of their +bodies, should be returned to their native land. There +was a Chinaman in Majorca whom I knew well, that +had his finger taken off by an accident. Shortly after, +he left the township; but, three months after, he one +day made his appearance at our bank. I asked him +where he had been, and why he had come back to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> +Majorca? "Oh!" said he, holding up his hand, "me +come look after my finger." "Where is it?" I asked.</p> + +<p>"Oh! me put 'em in the ground in bush—me know." +And I have no doubt he recovered his member, and +went away happy.</p> + +<p>My greatest pleasure, while at Majorca, was in riding +or walking through the bush—that is, the country as +Nature made it and left it—still uncleared and unoccupied, +except by occasional flocks of sheep, the property +of the neighbouring squatters. North of Majorca +lies a fine tract of country which we call the high +plains, for we have to cross a creek and climb a high hill +before we get on to them. Then for an invigorating +gallop over the green turf, the breeze freshening as we +pace along. These plains are really wonderful. They +look like a large natural amphitheatre, being level for +about fifteen miles in every direction and encircled all +round by high hills. There is very little timber on +the plains.</p> + +<p>The bush covers the ranges of hills between Majorca +and these plains or lower grounds, amidst which the +creeks run. Here, in some places, the trees grow pretty +thickly; in others, the country is open and naturally +clear. There is, however, always enough timber about +to confuse the traveller unless he knows the track.</p> + +<p>Shortly after my settling in Majorca, having heard +that one of my fellow-passengers by the 'Yorkshire' was +staying with a squatter about fourteen miles off, I determined +to pay him a visit. I thought I knew the track +tolerably well; but on my way through the bush I got<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> +confused, and came to the conclusion that I had lost my +way. When travellers get lost, they usually "<i>coo-ee</i>" +at the top of their voice, and the prolonged note, rising +at the end, is heard at a great distance in the silence of +the bush. I <i>coo-ied</i> as loud as I could, and listened; +but there was no response. I rode on again, and at +length I thought I heard a sort of hammering noise in +the distance. I proceeded towards it, and found the +noise occasioned by a man chopping wood. Glad to +find I was not yet lost, I went up to him to ask my +way. To my surprise, he could not speak a word of +English. I tried him in German, I tried him in French. +No! What was he, then? I found, by his <i>patois</i>, a +few words of which I contrived to make out, that he +was a Savoyard, who had only very recently arrived in +the colony. By dint of signs, as much as words, I +eventually made out the direction in which I was to go +in order again to find the track that I had missed, and +I took leave of my Savoyard with thanks.</p> + +<p>I succeeded in recovering the track, and eventually +reached the squatter's house in which my friend resided. +It was a large stone building, erected in the +modern style of villa architecture. Beside it stood +the original squatter's dwelling. What a contrast they +presented! The one a tall, handsome house; the other +a little, one-storied, shingle-roofed hut, with queer +little doors and windows. My friend, as he came out +and welcomed me, asked me to guess what he had +been just doing. He had been helping to put in the +new stove in the kitchen, for the larger house is scarcely<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> +yet finished. He told me what a good time he was +having: horses to ride, doing whatever he liked, and +enjoying a perfect Liberty Hall.</p> + +<p>The host himself shortly made his appearance, and +gave me a cordial welcome. After dinner we walked +round and took a view of the place. Quite a little +community, I found, lived about; for our host is a +large squatter, farmer, and miller; all the people being +supplied with rations from the station store. There is +even a station church provided by the owner, and a +clergyman comes over from Maryborough every Sunday +afternoon to hold the service and preach to the people. +After a very pleasant stroll along the banks of the +pretty creek which runs near the house, I mounted +my nag, and rode slowly home in the cool of the +evening.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2> + +<h3>AUSTRALIAN WINTER—THE FLOODS.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">The Victorian Climate</span>—<span class="smcap">The Bush in Winter</span>—<span class="smcap">The Eucalyptus, +or Australian Gum-tree</span>—<span class="smcap">Ball at Clunes</span>—<span class="smcap">Fire in the main +Street</span>—<span class="smcap">The Buggy Saved</span>—<span class="smcap">Down-pour of Rain</span>—<span class="smcap">Going Home +by Water</span>—<span class="smcap">The Floods out</span>—<span class="smcap">Clunes Submerged</span>—<span class="smcap">Calamity +at Ballarat</span>—<span class="smcap">Damage done by the Flood</span>—<span class="smcap">The Chinamen's +Gardens Washed Away</span>.</p> + + +<p>I was particularly charmed with the climate of +Victoria. It is really a pleasure to breathe the air: +it is so pure, dry, and exhilarating. Even when the +temperature is at its highest, the evenings are delightfully +cool. There is none of that steamy, clammy, +moist heat during the day, which is sometimes so +difficult to bear in the English summer; and as for +the spring of Australia, it is simply perfection.</p> + +<p>It was mid-winter when I arrived in Majorca—that +is, about the end of June, corresponding with our +English December. Although a wood-fire was very +pleasant, especially in the evenings, it was usually +warm at midday. The sky was of a bright, clear +blue, and sometimes the sun shone with considerable +power. No one would think of going out with a +great coat in winter, excepting for a long drive +through the bush or at night. In fact, the season<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> +can scarcely be termed winter; it is rather like a +prolonged autumn; extending from May to August. +Snow never falls,—at least, I never saw any during the +two winters I spent in the colony; and although there +were occasional slight frosts at night in the month of +August, I never observed the ice thicker than a wafer. +I once saw a heavy shower of hail, as it might fall +in England in summer; but it melted off the ground +directly.</p> + +<p>In proof of the mildness of the climate, it may +further be mentioned that the Australian vegetation +continues during the winter months. The trees remain +clothed in their usual garb, though the leaves are +of a somewhat browner hue than in the succeeding +seasons.</p> + +<p>The leaves of the universal gum-tree, or Eucalyptus +of Australia, are pointed, each leaf seeming to grow +separately, and they are so disposed as to give the +least possible shade. Instead of presenting one surface +to the sky and the other to the earth, as is the case +with the trees of Europe, they are often arranged +vertically, so that both sides are equally exposed to +the light. Thus the gum-tree has a pointed and sort +of angular appearance, the leaves being thrust out in +all directions and at every angle. The blue-gum and +some others have the peculiarity of throwing off their +bark in white-grey longitudinal strips or ribands, +which, hanging down the branches, give them a singularly +ragged look, more particularly in winter. From +this description, it will be gathered that the gum-tree<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> +is not a very picturesque tree; nevertheless, I have +seen some in the far bush which were finely proportioned, +tall, and might even be called handsome.</p> + +<p>The fine winter weather continues for months, the +days being dry and fine, with clear blue sky overhead, +until about the end of August, when rain begins to +fall pretty freely. During the first winter I spent at +Majorca, very little rain fell during two months, and +the country was getting parched, cracked, and brown. +Then everybody prayed for rain, for the sake of the +flocks and herds, and the growing crops. At last the +rain came, and it came with a vengeance.</p> + +<p>It so happened that about the middle of October I +was invited to accompany a friend to a ball given at +Clunes, a township about fifteen miles distant; and +we decided to accept the invitation. As there had +been no rain to speak of for months, the tracks through +the bush were dry and hard. We set off in the afternoon +in a one-horse buggy, and got down to Clunes +safely before it was dark.</p> + +<p>Clunes is a rather important place, the centre of a +considerable gold-mining district. Like most new up-country +towns, it consists of one long street; and this +one long street is situated in a deep hollow, close to a +creek. The creek was now all but dry, like the other +creeks or rivers in the neighbourhood.</p> + +<p>The ball was given, in a large square building belonging +to the Rechabites, situated in the upper part +of the town. The dancing began about half-past nine, +and was going on very briskly, when there was a sudden<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> +cry of "fire." All rushed to the door; and sure enough +there was a great fire raging down the street, about a +quarter of a mile off. A column of flames shot up +behind the houses, illuminating the whole town. The +gentlemen of the place hastened away to look after +their property, and the dance seemed on the point of +breaking up. I had no property to save, and I remained. +But the news came from time to time that +the fire was spreading; and here, where nearly every +house was of wood, the progress of a fire, unless +checked, is necessarily very rapid. Fears now began +to be entertained for the safety of the town.</p> + +<p>The fire was said to be raging in the main street, +quite close to the principal inn. Then suddenly I +remembered that I, too, had something to look after. +There was the horse and buggy, for which my friend +and I were responsible, as well as our changes of +clothes. I ran down the street, elbowing my way +through the crowd, and reached close to where the +firemen were hard at work plying their engines. Only +two small wooden houses intervened between the fire +and the inn. I hastened into the stable, but found +my companion had been there before me. He had +got out the horse and buggy, and our property was +safe. Eight houses had been burnt down along one +side of the street, before the fire was got under.</p> + +<p>After this excitement, nothing remained but to +go back and finish the dance. Our local paper at +Majorca—for you must know we have "an organ"—gave +us a hard hit, comparing us to Nero who fiddled<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> +while Rome was burning, whereas <i>we</i> danced while +Clunes was burning. But we did not resume the +dance till the fire was extinguished. However, everything +must come to an end, and so did the dance at +about five o'clock in the morning.</p> + +<p>Shortly after the fire, the rain had begun to fall; +and it was now coming down steadily. We had nothing +for it but to drive back the fifteen miles to Majorca, as +we had to be at business by 10 o'clock. We put on +our heaviest things, and set off just as the first streaks +of daylight appeared. As we drove down the street, +we passed the smouldering remains of the fire. Where, +the night before, I had been talking to a chemist across +his counter, there was nothing but ashes; everything +had been burnt to the ground. Further on were the +charred timbers and smoking ruins of the house at +which the fire had been stayed.</p> + +<p>The rain came down heavier and heavier. It seemed +to fall solid, in masses, soaking through rugs, top-coats, +and waterproofs, that we had before deemed +impervious. However, habit is everything, and when +once we got thoroughly soaked we became comparatively +indifferent to the rain, which never ceased +falling. We were soon in the bush, where there was +scarcely a track to guide us. But we hastened on, +knowing that every moment increased the risk of our +missing the way or being hindered by the flood. We +splashed along through the mud and water. As we +drove through a gully, we observed that what had +before been a dry track was now changed into a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> +torrent. Now hold the mare well in! We are in +the water, and it rushes against her legs as if striving +to pull her down. But she takes willingly to the +collar again, and with one more good pull lands us +safely on the other side, out of reach of the ugly, +yellow, foaming torrent.</p> + +<p>By the grey light of the morning, we saw the water +pouring down the sides of the high ground as we +passed. It was clear that we must make haste if we +would reach Majorca before the waters rose. We knew +that at one part of the road we should have to drive +near the bank of the creek, which was sure to be +flooded very soon. Our object accordingly was, to push +on so as to pass this most perilous part of our journey.</p> + +<p>On we drove, crossing dips in the track where +foaming streams were now rushing along, while +they roared down the gullies on either side. It was +fortunate that my companion knew the road so well: +as, in trying to avoid the deeper places, we might +have run some risk from the abandoned shafts which +lay in our way. At last we got safely across the +water, alongside the swollen creek, now raging in +fury; and glad I was when, rising the last hill, and +looking down from the summit, I saw the low-roofed +houses of Majorca before me.</p> + +<p>I found that we had been more fortunate than a +party that left Clunes a little later, who had the greatest +difficulty in reaching home by reason of the flood. At +some places the gentlemen had to get out of the carriages +into the water, up to their middle, and sound<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> +the depths of the holes in advance, before allowing the +horses to proceed. And hours passed before they succeeded +in reaching their destination.</p> + +<p>During the course of the day we learnt by telegraph—for +telegraphs are well established all over +the colony—that the main street of Clunes had become +turned into a river. The water was seven feet deep in +the very hotel where we had dressed for the ball! +All the back bed-rooms, stables, and outbuildings had +been washed away, and carried down the creek; and +thousands of pounds' worth of damage had been done +in the lower parts of the town.</p> + +<p>A few days later, when the rain had ceased, and the +flood had subsided, I went down to Deep Creek to see +something of the damage that had been done. On +either side, a wide stretch of ground was covered by a +thick deposit of sludge, from one to four feet deep. This +was the débris or crushings which the rain had washed +down from the large mining claims above: and as it +was barren stuff, mere crushed quartz, it ruined for the +time every bit of land it covered. The scene which +the track along the creek presented was most pitiable. +Fences had been carried away; crops beaten down; +and huge logs lay about, with here and there bits of +furniture, houses, and farm-gear.</p> + +<p>I find the floods have extended over the greater +part of the colony. Incalculable damage has been +done, and several lives have been lost. The most painful +incident of all occurred at Ballarat, where the +miners were at work on one of the claims, when a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> +swollen dam burst its banks and suddenly flooded the +workings. Those who were working on the top of the +shaft fled; but down below, ten of the miners were +at work at a high level, in drives many feet above +the bottom of the claim. The water soon filling up +the drives through which they had passed from the +main shaft, the men were unable to get out. They +remained there, cooped up in their narrow dark +workings, without food, or drink, or light for three +days; until at last the water was got under by the +steam-pumps, and they were reached. Two had died +of sheer privation, and the rest were got out more +dead than alive.</p> + +<p>The poor Chinamen's gardens down by the creek, +under Gibraltar, had also suffered severely by the +flood. MacCullum's Creek, in ordinary seasons, is only +a tiny stream, consisting of water-holes communicating +with each other by a brook. But during a flood it +becomes converted into a raging torrent, and you can +hear its roar a mile off. Within about five hours the +water in it had risen not less than twenty feet! This will +give you an idea of the tremendous force and rapidity +of the rainfall in this country. Of course the damage +done was great, in MacCullum's as in Deep Creek. +A heavy timber bridge had been carried quite away, +not a trace of it remaining. Many miners' huts in +the low ground had been washed away; while others, +situated in more sheltered places, out of the rush of +the torrent, had been quite submerged, the occupants +saving themselves by hasty flight in the early morning;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> +some of them having been only wakened up by the +water coming into their beds.</p> + +<p>One eccentric character, a Scotchman, who determined +to stick to his domicile, took refuge on his +parlour table as the water was rising. Then, as it got +still higher, he placed a chair upon the table, and stood +up on it, the water continuing to rise, over his legs, +then up and up; yet still he stuck to his chair. His +only regret, he afterwards said, was that he could not +get at his whisky bottle, which he discerned upon a high +shelf temptingly opposite him, but beyond his reach. +The water at last began to fall; he waded up to his +neck for the bottle; and soon the water was out of +the house; for its fall is almost as sudden as its rise.</p> + +<p>I was sorry for the poor Chinamen, whom I found, +two days later, still wandering about amidst the ruins +of their gardens. Their loamy beds had been quite +washed away, and their fences and some of their huts +carried clean down the creek. One of them told me +he had lost 30<i>l.</i> in notes, which he had concealed in his +cabin; but the flood had risen so quickly that he had +been unable to save it. I picked up a considerable-sized +stone that had been washed on to the Chinamen's +ground; it was a piece of lava thrown from one of +the volcanic hills which bound the plain,—how many +thousands of years ago! These volcanic stones are so +light and porous that they swim like corks, and they +abound in many parts of this neighbourhood.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2> + +<h3>SPRING, SUMMER, AND HARVEST.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Spring Vegetation</span>—<span class="smcap">The Bush in Spring</span>—<span class="smcap">Garden Flowers</span>—<span class="smcap">An +Evening Walk</span>—<span class="smcap">Australian Moonlight</span>—<span class="smcap">The Hot North +Wind</span>—<span class="smcap">The Plague of Flies</span>—<span class="smcap">Bush Fires</span>—<span class="smcap">Summer at Christmas</span>—<span class="smcap">Australian +Fruits</span>—<span class="smcap">Ascent of Mount Greenock</span>—<span class="smcap">Australian +Wine</span>—<span class="smcap">Harvest</span>—<span class="smcap">A Squatter's Farm</span>—<span class="smcap">Harvest +Home Celebration</span>—<span class="smcap">Aurora Australis</span>—<span class="smcap">Autumn Rains</span>.</p> + + +<p>After a heavy rainfall, the ground becomes well soaked +with water, and vegetation proceeds with great rapidity. +Although there may be an occasional fall of rain at +intervals, there is no recurrence of the flood. The days +are bright and clear, the air dry, and the weather most +enjoyable. It is difficult to determine when one season +begins and another ends here; but I should say that +spring begins in September. The evenings are then +warm enough to enable us to dispense with fires, while +at midday it is sometimes positively hot.</p> + +<p>Generally speaking, spring time is the most delightful +season in Australia. The beautiful young vegetation +of the year is then in full progress; the orchards +are covered with blossom; the fresh, bright green of +the grass makes a glorious carpet in the bush, when the +trees put off their faded foliage of the previous year, and +assume their bright spring livery. In some places the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> +bush is carpeted with flowers—violet flowers of the pea +and vetch species. There is also a beautiful plant, with +flowers of vivid scarlet, that runs along the ground; +and in some places the sarsaparillas, with their violet +flowers, hang in festoons from the gum-tree branches. +And when the wattle-bushes (a variety of the acacia +tribe) are covered over with their yellow bloom, +loading the air with their peculiarly sweet perfume, +and the wild flowers are out in their glory, a walk or a +ride through the bush is one of the most enjoyable of +pleasures.</p> + +<p>I must also mention that all kinds of garden flowers, +such as we have at home, come to perfection in our +gardens here,—such as anemones, ranunculuses, ixias, +and gladiolas. All the early spring flowers—violets, +lilacs, primroses, hyacinths, and tulips—bloom most +freely. Roses also flower splendidly in spring, and +even through the summer, when not placed in too +exposed situations. At Maryborough our doctor had +a grand selection of the best roses—Lord Raglan, John +Hopper, Marshal Neil, La Reine Hortense, and such +like—which, by careful training and good watering, +grew green, thick, and strongly, and gave out a good +bloom nearly all the summer through.</p> + +<p>By the beginning of November, full summer seems +already upon us, it is so hot at midday. Only towards +the evening, when the sun goes down—as it does +almost suddenly, with very little twilight—it feels a +little chilly and even cold. By the middle of the month, +however, it has grown very warm indeed, and we begin<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> +to have a touch of the hot wind from the north. I +shall not soon forget my first experience of walking in +the face of that wind. It was like encountering a blast +from the mouth of a furnace; it made my cheeks quite +tingle, and it was so dry that I felt as if the skin would +peel off.</p> + +<p>On the 16th of November I found the thermometer +was 98° in the shade. Try and remember if you ever had +a day in England when it was so hot, and how intolerable +it must have been! Here, however, the moisture +is absent, and we are able to bear the heat without much +inconvenience, though the fine, white dust sometimes +blows in at the open door, covering ledger, cash-book, +and everything. On the 12th of December I wrote +home: "The weather is frightfully hot; the ledger almost +scorches my hands as I turn over the leaves." Then +again, on the 23rd, I wrote that "the heat has risen to +105°, and even 110°, in the shade; yet, in consequence +of the dryness and purity of the atmosphere, I bear it +easily, and even go out to walk."</p> + +<p>My favourite walk in the bush, in early summer, is +towards the summit of a range of hills on the south +of the township. I set out a little before sunset, when +the heat of the day is well over, and the evening begins +to feel deliciously cool. All is quiet; there is nothing +to be heard but the occasional note of the piping-crow, +and the chatter of a passing flock of paroquets. As I +ascend the hill, passing an abandoned quartz-mine, even +these sounds are absent, and perfect stillness prevails. +From the summit an immense prospect lies before me.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> +Six miles away to the south, across the plain, lies the +town of Talbot; and beyond it the forest seems to +extend to the foot of the Pyrenees, standing up blue in +the distance some forty miles away. The clouds hang +over the mountain summits, and slowly the monarch +of day descends seemingly into a dark rift, leaving a +track of golden light behind him. The greeny-blue +sky above shines and glows for a few minutes longer, +and then all is suffused in a soft and mournful grey. +The change is almost sudden. The day is over, and +night has already come on. Darkness follows daylight +so suddenly that in nights when there is no moon, and +it is cloudy, one has to hasten homeward, so as not to +miss the track or run the risk of getting benighted in +the bush.</p> + +<p>But, when the moon is up, the nights in Australia +are as brilliant as the days. The air is cool, the sky +cloudless, and walking in the bush is then most delightful. +The trees are gaunt and weird-like, the +branches standing in bold relief against the bright +moonlight. Yet all is so changed, the distant landscape +is so soft and lovely, that one can scarcely believe +that it is the same scene we have so often looked upon +in broad daylight. It is no exaggeration to say that +the Australian moonlight is so bright that one may +easily read a book by it of moderately-sized type.</p> + +<p>But Australian summer weather has also its <i>désagrémens</i>. +The worst of these is the hot north wind, of +which I have already described my foretaste; though +old colonists tell me that these have become much less<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> +intolerable, and occur much seldomer, since the interior +of the country has been settled and comparatively cultivated. +But the hot winds are still bad to bear, as +I can testify. They blow from the parched lands of +Central Australia, and bring with them clouds of dust +and insects. I should think they must resemble the +African simoom. The Melbourne people call these +burning blasts the "brick-fielders." The parching +wind makes one hot and feverish, and to fly to the +bar for cooling drinks; but there even the glasses are +hot to the touch. Your skin becomes so dry and crisp +that you feel as if it would crackle off. The temperature +rises to 120°—a pretty tidy degree of heat! +There is nothing for it but to fly within doors, shut up +every cranny to keep out the hot dust, and remain +in darkness.</p> + +<p>While the hot wind lasts, the air is of a heavy copper +colour. Everything looks yellow and withered. The +sun appears through the dust dull red, and no bigger +than the moon, just as it does on a foggy morning +in London. Perhaps after an hour or two of this +choking heat the hot wind, with its cloud of dust, +passes away southward, and we have a deliciously +cool evening, which we enjoy all the more contrasted +with the afternoon's discomfort. The longest time +I have known the hot wind to last was two days, but +it is usually over in a few hours. The colonials say +that these winds are even of use, by blowing the insect +tribes out to sea; and that but for them the crops +would, in summer time, be completely eaten away.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span></p> + +<p>Another source of discomfort is the flies in summer. +They abound everywhere. They fill the rooms, and +as you pass along the streets they rise in clouds. The +ceilings are sometimes black with them, and no food +can be left exposed for an instant without the certainty +of its being covered with them. There is one disgusting +yellow-bodied blow-fly, which drops his maggots +with extraordinary fecundity. The flies are also +a nuisance in the bush, where veils are usually worn +when driving, to prevent their annoyance. And in the +swamps there are vigorous and tormenting musquitoes, +as I have elsewhere described.</p> + +<p>After the parching heat of summer, and especially +after the excessive dryness occasioned by the hot +winds, the whole face of the country becomes, as it +were, combustible, and bush-fires have at such times +burst forth apparently spontaneously, and spread with +great rapidity. The "Black Thursday" of the colony, +some fifteen years since, when fire covered many +hundreds of miles, is still remembered with horror; +but, as settlement and cultivation have extended, these +sudden outbreaks of fire have become comparatively +rare.</p> + +<p>When Christmas arrives, summer is at its height. +It finds us perhaps gasping with heat, sitting in our +shirt-sleeves for coolness, and longing for the cool +evening. Yet there are few who do not contrive to +have their Christmas roast and plum-pudding, as at +home. As strawberries are then in their prime and +in great abundance, many hold strawberry picnics on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> +Christmas Day; while sober church-goers enjoy them +at home.</p> + +<p>The abundance of fruits of all kinds affords one of +the best proofs of the geniality of the climate. First +come strawberries, followed by abundance of plums, +peaches, and apricots, and afterwards by pears and +apples in plenty. Our manager's garden at Maryborough +is a sight worth seeing in summer time. +Having a plentiful supply of water, he is able to bring +his fruit to great perfection. The plum and peach +trees seemed almost overburdened with their delicious +loads. Through the centre of the garden is a cool +green alley, shaded with a vine-covered trellis. The +bunches of fast-ripening grapes are hanging on all +sides, and promise an abundant crop.</p> + +<p>Some of my pleasantest associations are connected +with the January afternoons spent in the orchards +about Majorca. One day a party of us drove out in +search of a good fruit-garden. We went over the hill +to the south, and down the long valley on the Talbot +road, raising clouds of white dust as we went; then up +another hill, from the summit of which, down by the +banks of the creek, and almost close to the foot of +Mount Greenock, we discovered the garden of which +we had come in search. We descended and entered +the garden, still covered with greenery, notwithstanding +the tremendous heat, and there found the fruit +in perfection.</p> + +<p>Mount Greenock is one of the many volcanic hills +which abound in this neighbourhood. It is almost a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span> +perfect cone, some eight or nine hundred feet high. +"What a splendid prospect from the summit!" said one +of my companions. "Well, let us go up—there will +probably be a fine breeze on the top." "Too hot by +far," was the answer. "Not at all," said I, "the thing +is to be done." "Well," said my friend, "you may go +if you like; but if you do, and are back in three-quarters +of an hour, I'll undertake to shout fruits and +drinks for the remainder of the afternoon."</p> + +<p>A noble offer! So I immediately stripped, took one +look at the steep hill above, the withered grass upon it +almost glittering in the sun, and started. I was soon +across the nearly-dry creek, and, beginning the ascent, +I went on pretty steadily until I was within about two +hundred feet of the summit, when the great heat +began to tell upon me. I stopped, looked down the +steep hill up which I had come, saw what a little +way further comparatively I had to go, and clambered +upward again. It was still a long and fatiguing pull, +mostly over loose lava stones; but at last I reached +the top, panting and out of breath. After such a +tremendous pull as that, I do not think any one will +venture to say that my lungs can be unsound.</p> + +<p>I looked round at the magnificent view. It was +indeed well worth climbing the hill to see. I first +turned my eyes northward towards Majorca. There it +was, with its white streak of pipeclay above it. Beyond, +in the distance, lay Carisbrook, with the bald hill +standing out in bold relief behind it. Nearer at hand +are the mining works of several companies, with their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> +engine-sheds surrounded by huge piles of refuse. +Turning my eyes southward, I saw Talbot, about a mile +off, looking quite an important place, with its numerous +red-brick buildings and clusters of comfortable-looking +houses. On the west, towards Maryborough, lay a +wide extent of bush, clad in its never varying dark +green verdure. The sky was clear, blue, and cloudless; +and though the sun was in all his strength, the +light breeze that played round the top of the mount +made the air pleasant and exhilarating to breathe.</p> + +<p>I shortly turned my steps down-hill, tacking and +zigzagging in the descent because of the steepness. I +was soon at the foot of the mount, across the brook, +and seated in the garden, enjoying the fresh fruit, with +an occasional draught of colonial wine.</p> + +<p>Apropos of wine and grapes. It is anticipated by +those who have had the longest experience of the +climate and soil of Victoria, that it is not unlikely +before long to become one of the principal wine-growing +countries in the world. The vine grows luxuriantly, +and the fruit reaches perfection in all parts of the +colony, but more particularly in the fine district +situated along the River Murray. Most of the farmers +up country make their own wines for home use. It is +a rough, wholesome sort of claret. But when the Germans, +who are well accustomed to the culture of the +vine, give the subject their attention, a much finer +quality is produced. There are already several vineyard +associations at work, who expect before long to +export largely to England, though at present the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> +greater part of the wine grown is consumed in the +colony. A friend of mine at Melbourne has planted an +extensive vineyard at Sunbury, some thirty miles north +of the city, cultivated by Swiss vignerons; and, though +I am no judge of wine, the Burgundy which I tasted at +his table was very grateful to my inexperienced palate, +and I was told that it was of very superior quality.<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a></p> + +<p>After summer comes harvest, when the farmer gathers +in the produce of his year's industry, takes stock, and +counts his gains. Harvest is well over by the end of +February. When I rode out to Perry's Farm, on the +second day of March, I found the fields already cleared, +and the grain housed. All the extra hands had gone. +Only a week before, the fields had been busy with +reapers, binders, and machine-men, for whom enormous +meat pies had to be cooked and great joints of meat +roasted,—for labouring men in Australia are accustomed +to consume much larger quantities of flesh meat than +at home.</p> + +<p>The scene is now perfectly quiet. The cows are +coming in to be milked, and a very fine lot they are—fifteen +or more. The great stacks of straw are shining +in the red sunlight, for the sun is getting low, though +it is still warm. We go up to the farmhouse, having +hung our horses' reins over the rail, and saunter in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> +through the back door. Here no handing in of cards +is required, for we know we are sure of being made +welcome; and in Australia hospitality is boundless. +We taste the grapes, which are just ripe, and wash +them down with a glass of home-brewed mead. But +beware of that mead! Though it looks very innocent, +it is really very strong and heady.</p> + +<p>The farmer then took us into his barn, and proudly +pointed with his heavy whip to the golden grain piled +up on the floor; then over his stable, to look at his +horses. There we found our own nags, which had been +taken in for a feed. Bringing them out, and mounting +again, we rode on a little further to another farm +situated on a hill-side a little higher up the valley.</p> + +<p>The farmhouse here is a little gem of a dwelling, +situated in a nice shady place, in the midst of a +luxurious garden. Here, too, we dismounted and entered +the house, for we knew the host—a most genial +fellow, whose honest English face it was always a +pleasure to see: it was so full of kindness and good +humour. We took a stroll round the garden while the +sun was setting, and then turned in for a cup of good +tea, which "missus" had got ready for us.</p> + +<p>One of our entertainer's greatest delights was in +talking about "old times"—though they were only a +year or two old after all,—yet "new chums" were always +ready to sit listening to his tales open-mouthed. He +had been a digger, like most of the farmers hereabout, +and he told us how he was the first to find the gold at +the great rush at Maryborough; how he saw the gold<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> +glistening in the gravel one day that he was out in the +bush; how, for weeks, he lived quietly, but digging and +gathering gold early and late, until, having made his +little golden harvest, enough to buy and stock a farm, +he went and gave information to the commissioner +as to the find, and then what a rush of thousands of +diggers there was to the ground! how streets sprang up, +stores were opened, hotels were built, and at last Maryborough +became the great place that it is—the thriving +centre of a large mining as well as agricultural district.</p> + +<p>In such old diggers' talk two hours had passed almost +before we were aware; and then we rose to go. The +horses were brought out, and we mounted and rode +cautiously home, for it was now quite dark. It was a +fine mild night, and we had plenty of time; so we +talked and laughed our way through the bush—our +voices the only sounds to be heard, except it might +be the noise of a bird rising on the wing, startled from +its perch by our merry laughter or the clatter of our +horses' hoofs on the hard ground as we trotted along.</p> + +<p>Another day, I drove out with one of the neighbouring +farmers to his place on the other side of the +Deep Creek. At this late season the bush is dried +up and melancholy-looking; very different from what +it is in the lovely spring time. Now the bush seems +dead-alive, fast putting on its winter garb, while withered +stalks of grass cover the plains. We pass the neighbourhood +of a large squatter's station, the only one +about here,—the run being very large, extending for +a great distance over the plains. It consists of not less<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> +than 60,000 acres of purchased land and 60,000 acres +of government land, on which the squatter exercises +the usual rights of pasturage.</p> + +<p>Crossing the creek by a wooden bridge, we were +shortly at my friend's farm. We heard the buzzing +noise of the threshing-machine in the adjoining fields. +There was the engine busily at work, just as at home. +Steam penetrates everywhere,—across the seas, over the +mountains, and into the bush. We soon came up to +the engine, where the men were at work. It was pretty +severe under a hot sun, amidst clouds of dust and bits +of chaff flying about from the thresher. Many of +the men wore spectacles to protect their eyes from the +glare of the sun's heat.</p> + +<p>The engine was just about to stop, to allow the men +to have their midday spell of rest; and they were soon +at their meal of meat and cold tea. The farmer came +upon some of the men smoking quite unconcernedly +beside the great piles of straw; and wroth he was at +their carelessness, as well he might be, for had a fire +burst out, it would have destroyed straw, wheat, engine, +and all. The wheat seemed of excellent quality, and +the farmer was quite pleased with his crop, which is not +always the case with farmers.</p> + +<p>We afterwards went over the farm buildings, which +are neat and substantial. A large stone barn has at one +end of it a kitchen attached, where the men's victuals +are cooked during harvest time; and, close at hand, is +a comfortable stone cottage for the accommodation of +the manager and his family.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span></p> + +<p>After going over the farm, I had a refreshing bathe +in the creek, at a convenient place; though I have +heard that it is not unusual for bathers who get into a +muddy water-hole to be startled by a sudden sting, and +when they emerge from the water, to find half a dozen +hungry leeches hanging on to their skin. For leeches +are plentiful in Australia, and even form an article +of considerable export to England.</p> + +<p>We afterwards went out to Perry's harvest dance +and supper, with which the gathering in of the crops is +usually celebrated, as at home. The wheat had by this +time all been sold and cleared out of the barn, and it +was now rigged up as a ball-room. We had a good +long spell of dancing, to the music of a violin and a +bush piano. Perhaps you don't know what a bush +piano is? It consists of a number of strings arranged +on a board, tightened up and tuned, upon which the +player beats with a padded hammer, bringing out +sounds by no means unmusical. At all events, the +bush piano served to eke out the music of our solitary +violin.</p> + +<p>After the dance there was the usual bounteous +supper, with plenty to eat and drink for all; and then +our horses were brought out and we rode homeward. +It was the end of harvest, just the time of the year +when, though the days were still warm, the nights +were beginning to be cool and sharp, as they are about +the beginning of October in England. One night +there was a most splendid Aurora, one of the finest, +it is said, that had been seen, even in Australia. A<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> +huge rose-coloured curtain seemed to be let down across +half the sky, striped with bright golden colour, shaded +off with a deeper yellow. Beneath the red curtain, +close to the horizon, was a small semicircle of bright +greenish yellow, just as if the sun were about to rise; +and bright gleams of light shot up from it far into +the sky, making the rose-coloured clouds glow again. +The brilliancy extended upwards almost to the zenith, +the stars glimmering through the darker or less bright +part of the sky. Though I have mentioned "clouds," +there was not a cloud to be seen; the clouds I name +were really masses of brilliant light, obscuring the deep +blue beyond. I feel the utter powerlessness of words +to describe the magnificence of the scene.</p> + +<p>The weather-wise people predicted a change of +weather; and sure enough a change shortly followed. +We had had no rain for weeks; but early on the +second morning after the appearance of the Aurora, I +was awakened by the noise of heavy rain falling upon +our slight iron roof. I found a tremendous storm raging +and the rain falling in masses. Our large iron tank +was completely filled in half an hour; and, overflowing, +it ran in upon our bank floor and nearly flooded us out. +We had an exciting time of it, baling out the water as +fast as it ran in; for somehow, the drain running underneath +our boarded house had got stopped. At last the +rainfall ceased and the water was got rid of, leaving +everything in a state of damp—damp stools and chairs, +damp sheets, damp clothes, damp books, damp paper, +damp everything.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> The kinds of wine principally +produced in the colony are Burgundy, +Claret, white wine of the +Sauterne kind, and a very excellent +sort of still Champagne. There +are now regular autumn wine sales +at Melbourne and Geelong, at +which large quantities are sold +and good prices realised. The +total quantity produced in 1870 +was 629,219 gallons.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h2> + +<h3>BUSH ANIMALS—BIRDS—SNAKES.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">The 'Possum</span>—<span class="smcap">A Night's Sport in the Bush</span>—<span class="smcap">Musquitoes</span>—<span class="smcap">Wattle +Birds</span>—<span class="smcap">The Piping-Crow</span>—"<span class="smcap">Miners</span>"—<span class="smcap">Paroquet-hunting</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Southern Cross</span>—<span class="smcap">Snakes</span>—<span class="smcap">Marsupial Animals</span>.</p> + + +<p>A favourite sport in Australia is 'possum-shooting. +The Australian opossum is a marsupial quadruped, +living in trees and feeding on insects, eggs, and fruits. +Its body is about twenty-five inches in length, besides +which it has a long prehensile tail, with which it clings +to the branches of the trees in which it lives. Its skin +is covered with thick fur, of a uniform smoky-black +colour, tinged with chestnut, and it is very much sought +after because of its warmth and beauty.</p> + +<p>The proper time for 'possum-shooting is at night, +when the moon is nearly at her full, and one can see +about almost as well as in the daytime. Even Venus +is so bright that, on a night when the moon was absent, +I have seen her give light enough to drive by.</p> + +<p>A well-trained dog is almost indispensable for scenting +the 'possums and tracking them to their tree, beneath +which he stands and gives tongue. When the dog +stands and barks, you may be sure there is the "'possum +up a gum-tree." I never had the good fortune to be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> +accompanied by a well-trained dog; but only by young +ones new to the sport.</p> + +<p>We had, therefore, to find and sight our own game. +This is done by looking carefully along each branch, +with the tree between you and the bright moonlight; +and if there be a 'possum there, you will see a little +black furry-like ball, motionless in the fork of a limb. +On the first night that I went out 'possum-shooting with +a party of friends, we trudged a good way into the bush, +and searched the trees for a long time in vain.</p> + +<p>At length the old colonial who accompanied us, +coming up to a large tree, said, "Ah! here is a likely +place;" and we began carefully to spy the branches; +"There he is," said the colonial, pointing to a limb +where he said the 'possum was. At first I could make +out nothing. But at last I spied the little round ball. +He fired, and the animal fell to the ground dead.</p> + +<p>A little further on we searched again and found +another. Now it was my turn. I took steady aim at +the black object between me and the moon, and fired. +Looking through the smoke, I saw Joey hanging on to +the branch by his tail; and in half a minute more he +dropped to the ground. I found that this was one of +the ring-tailed species, the top of the tail being bare +for about two inches, and formed like a white ring. +'Possums of this sort use their tails for climbing, like +the spider-monkey of Africa. I found I could carry +my ring-tailer hanging on to my finger, even after he +was quite dead.</p> + +<p>The next 'possum fell wounded from the tree, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span> +took to his heels, with the little dogs after him; and +they settled him after a short fight. Sometimes the +'possum, after being hit, will cling a long time to the +tree by his tail, with his body hanging down. Then the +best and lightest climber goes up to shake him down, +and he soon drops among the dogs, which are all excitement +and ready to fall upon him. Occasionally he +will give them a good run, and then the object is to +prevent him getting up another tree.</p> + +<p>Proceeding on our search, we found ourselves on +some low swampy ground, where there were said to be +abundance of 'possums. But I had no sooner entered +the swamp than I was covered with musquitoes of the +most ravenous character. They rose from the ground +in thousands, and fastened on my "new chum" skin, +from which the odour of the lime-juice had not yet +departed;<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> and in a few minutes I was literally in torment, +and in full retreat out of the swamp. Not even +the prospect of a full bag of 'possums would tempt +me again in that direction.</p> + +<p>In all, we got seven 'possums, which is considered a +very small bag. There is a practised sportsman in the +town who goes out with a well-trained dog, accompanied +by a horse and cart; and he is disappointed if he does +not bring home quite a cart-load of fur.</p> + +<p>When we had got done with our sport, and resolved<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> +on wending our way homewards, I had not the faintest +idea where we were, or of the direction in which we +were to proceed. Of course, near the town there are +plenty of tracks, but here there were none; and there +is such a complete sameness in the bush that I wondered +that even my experienced friend should be able +to guide us back. But he had no difficulty in finding +the way, and we were soon tramping steadily along +under the bright moonlight, the straggling gum-trees +looking more gaunt and unshapely than usual,—the +dry twigs crackling under our feet; and we reached +the township long after midnight.</p> + +<p>On another occasion I accompanied the Maryborough +doctor into the bush to shoot wattle birds for a pie; +but we did not succeed in getting a pieful. I have an +idea that the gay-coloured dress of a young lady who +accompanied us frightened the birds away. There +were plenty of birds about, but very few of the sort we +wanted—a bird as large as a pigeon, plump and tender +to eat. The doctor drove us in and out among the +trees, and had once nearly turned us all perforce out of +the buggy, having got his wheels locked in the stump +of a tree.</p> + +<p>The speckled honey-suckers, yellow and black, +chirped and gabbled up among the trees. The leather-heads, +with their bare neck and ruffle of white feathers, +almost like so many vultures in miniature, gave out +their loud and sudden croak; then lazily flapped their +wings and flew away to the next tree. Suddenly there +is heard the single cry of the bell-bird, just like the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span> +ringing of a glass bell; while far off in the bush you +could hear the note of the Australian magpie or piping-crow, +not unlike that of a silver flute, clear, soft, and +musical. The piping-crow is, indeed, a clever bird, +imitating with wonderful accuracy the cries of other +birds; and when tamed it is exceedingly amusing, +readily learning to whistle tunes, which it does extremely +well.</p> + +<p>Another day, I went out shooting with the Presbyterian +minister, an enthusiastic taxidermist, now occupied +in making a very nice collection of Australian +birds. We had a gay time of it in the bush that day. +There were plenty of grey and black mina-birds, or +"miners," as they are called here, chattering away in +the trees in groups of four or five. They are a species +of grakle, and are lively and intelligent birds, some of +them possessing a power of imitating human speech +equal to any of the parrot tribe. They are very peculiar +looking, grey in the body, with a black dab on +the head, and a large bright yellow wattle just behind +the eye. We pass the "miners" unmolested, for the +minister tells me they are "no good" if you want eating, +whilst as specimens they are too common.</p> + +<p>Then there are the tiny grey wrens, sitting about in +scores,—so small that an English wren looks monstrous +beside them. Across the sunlight, and away over a +hollow, there flies a flock of green and yellow paroquets, +screaming as they fly. The brilliant colours of +their wings flash and glitter as they come from under +the shadow of the trees. Now we stalk a solitary<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span> +piping-crow from tree to tree; but no sooner do you +get near enough to take a pot shot at him than he +pipes his note, and is off. The only way of getting at +him is to proceed cautiously from bush to bush; but +even then, so shy a bird is he, that it is very difficult +to bag him.</p> + +<p>There is a flock of great white sulphur-crested +cockatoos clustered up in a high tree. Can we get a +shot? They seem to anticipate our design, for on the +moment they rise and wheel overhead with elevated +crests, uttering their shrill hoarse cries. These are the +fellows that occasion our farmers so much trouble by +eating the freshly-sown grain.</p> + +<p>Then look! on that branch are twenty or thirty +lovely little swift paroquets, with green and dark blue +wings tipped with yellow. They are climbing in and +out of the scant leafage, under and over the limbs of +the tree, hanging on by their claws; and they only +rise if they see us near enough to take a shot at them, +when they take to wing screaming, and fly away in +a flock.</p> + +<p>Once, when I had gone out parrot-potting, with +another young fellow almost as green as myself, we +had very nearly got bushed. We had been following +up a flock of Blue Mountain parrots—handsome birds—of +which we wanted specimens for our collection. +After some slight success, we turned our way homewards. +The sun was just setting. Marking its position +in the heavens, we took what we thought was the +right direction. There were no tracks to guide us—no<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span> +landmarks—nothing but bush. After walking for some +time, and looking again at the light of the sky where +the sun had gone down, we found that we had made +a circuit upon our track, and were walking exactly +in the opposite direction to our township. We hastily +retraced our steps, for we knew that it would soon be +dark, as the twilight is so short in Australia. Fortunately +for us, it was a very clear night, and as the stars +came brightly out we saw before us the Southern Cross +high up on our left, which guided us on our way. Had +it been a cloudy night, most probably we should have +had to spend it in the bush; but, thanks to the +Southern Cross and good legs, we at length, though +late, reached our township in safety.</p> + +<p>There are sometimes snakes met with in the bush, +though I saw but few of them, and these are always +ready to get out of your way. The largest fellow I +saw was drawn out from under the flooring of a weather-boarded +hut on the hill-side above Majorca. I was +coming down early one morning from the school-house, +when I stopped at the hut to speak with the occupant. +It is a very tidy little place, divided into two rooms—parlour +and bedroom. The parlour was pasted all +over with cheap prints reminding one of home, mostly +taken from 'Punch' and the 'Illustrated London News.' +Photographs of old friends were also hung over the +mantel-shelf. The floor was neat and clean; the little +pot was simmering over the little fire, and all was +getting ready for breakfast. A very pleasant picture +of a thriving emigrant's home.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span></p> + +<p>As I was standing outside, about to take my leave, +casting my eyes on the ground, I saw beneath the +bench close to the door a long brownish-grey thing +lying quite still. I at once saw that it was a snake, +and snatched up a billet of wood to make a blow at +him; but my friend, who had more experience in such +matters, held me back. "Just wait a moment," said +he, "and let me get hold of him." Quick as thought +he stooped down, seized firm hold of the snake by the +tail, and, whirling him rapidly round his head three +or four times, he dashed him against the boards of the +hut and let him drop, crushing the reptile's head with +his boot-heel. The snake was four feet six inches in +length, and said to be of a very poisonous sort.</p> + +<p>Snakes are much more common in the less cleared +parts of the colony, and fatal snake-bites are not infrequent. +The most successful method of treatment +is that invented by Dr. Halford, of Melbourne, which +consists in injecting a solution of ammonia into a vein +dissected out and opened for the purpose. This is said +at once and almost completely to destroy the effects of +the poison. Since my return home I observe that Dr. +Halford has been publicly rewarded for his discovery.</p> + +<p>Kangaroo-hunting is one of the great sports of Victoria, +but it was not my fortune to see a hunt of this sort. +There are now very few, if any, kangaroo in this immediate +neighbourhood.<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> Yet there is no lack of marsupial<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> +animals of the same character: the opossum is one of +these. There is also a small kind of kangaroo, called +the wallaby, which, though I have not hunted, I have +eaten. And wallaby stew is by no means a bad dish: +the flesh tastes very much like venison. Indeed, the +marsupial animals of Australia are of almost endless +variety, ranging from a very tiny animal, no bigger +than our field-mouse, to the great old-man kangaroo, +which measures between seven and eight feet from the +nose to the tip of the tail. The peculiarity of all this +class of animals, from the smallest to the largest, is +the marsupium, or pouch, in which the females carry +their immature young until they are old enough to +shift for themselves. The kangaroo is almost confined +to Australia, though several species are also to be +met with in the neighbouring islands.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> It is said in the colony that +the musquitoes scent out each +"new chum," or fresh importation, +by the lime-juice he has taken on +board ship; and that, being partial +to fresh blood, they attack the +"new chums" in preference to the +seasoned inhabitants.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> There is a Hunt Club at Avoca, +that hunts kangaroo. The animals +abound north of the Murray River; +and some parts of the unsettled +country in Gipps Land still swarm +with them.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV.</h2> + +<h3>GOLD-BUYING AND GOLD-MINING.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">How the Gold is Found</span>—<span class="smcap">Gold-washing</span>—<span class="smcap">Quartz-crushing</span>—<span class="smcap">Buying +Gold from Chinamen</span>—<span class="smcap">Alluvial Companies</span>—<span class="smcap">Broken-down +Men</span>—<span class="smcap">Ups and Downs in Gold-mining</span>—<span class="smcap">Visit to a Gold +Mine</span>—<span class="smcap">Gold-seeking</span>—<span class="smcap">Diggers' Tales of lucky Finds</span>.</p> + + +<p>I must now be excused if I talk a little "shop." +Though my descriptions hitherto have, for the most +part, related to up-country life, seasons, amusements, +and such like, my principal concern, while living in +Majorca, was with bank business and gold-buying. +The ordinary business of a banking office is tolerably +well known, but the business of gold-buying is a +comparatively new feature, peculiar to the gold-producing +districts, and is, therefore, worthy of a short +description.</p> + +<p>The gold is found and brought to us in various +forms. The Majorca gold is generally alluvial, consisting +of coarse gold-dust and small nuggets washed +out from the gravel. There are also some quartz reef +mining companies, whose gold is bought in what we +call a retorted state. Let me explain. The quartz +containing the gold is stamped and broken up by heavy<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> +iron hammers falling upon it; and a stream of water +constantly running down into the box in which the +stampers work, the soluble dirt is washed away, while +the particles of quartz and gold are carried forward +over boards, in which, at intervals, are small ripples +containing quicksilver. The quicksilver clings to the +gold and forms an amalgam with it. This is collected, +taken out, and squeezed in bags of chamois leather,—by +which the greater part of the quicksilver is pressed +out and saved for a repetition of the process. The +residue is placed in a retort, and exposed to heat, by +which the remainder of the quicksilver is driven off by +evaporation, leaving the gold in a solid lump. There +are, however, various other processes by which the gold +is separated from the quartz.</p> + +<p>Sometimes the gold is offered for sale in a very imperfectly +separated state, and then considerable judgment +is required in deciding as to its value. In alluvial +gold there is always a certain proportion of chips of +iron, which have flown from the picks used in striking +and turning up the gravel. These pieces of iron +are carefully extracted by means of a magnet. The +larger bits of gold, if there be any, are then taken out +and put to one side. The remainder is put into a +shallow tin dish, which is shaken with a peculiar turn +of the wrist, and all the sand and dirt thus turned to +the point of the dish. This is blown off; then up goes +the gold again, and you blow and blow until all the +sand is blown off. If there remain any gold with quartz +still adhering to it, the particles are put into a big iron<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span> +mortar and well beaten, and the process above described +is repeated. The gold is then ready for weighing +and buying, and there is usually no difficulty in +settling the price with English diggers, the price varying +according to the assay of the gold.<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a></p> + +<p>Our great difficulty is with the Chinamen, who are +very close-fisted fellows. They mostly work at sludge, +which Englishmen have already washed; and they +are found hanging on to the tailings of old workings, +washing the refuse in order to extract the gold that +had been missed. Old tailings are often thus washed +several times over, and never without finding gold to +a greater or less amount. When a party of Chinamen +think they can do better elsewhere, they may be seen +moving off, carrying their whole mining apparatus on +their backs, consisting of tubs, blankets, tin scoops, and +a small washing-cradle.</p> + +<p>The Chinamen get their gold in a very rude way, +though it seems to answer their purpose. They put +the stuff to be washed on to their cradle, and by +scooping water over it and keeping the cradle going +they gradually rinse it away, the fluid running over +two or three ledges of blankets, and leaving the fine +gold remaining behind adhering to the wool. After the +process has been continued sufficiently long, the gold-dust +is collected from the blankets, and is retorted by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span> +the Chinamen themselves, and then they bring it for +sale. The retorting has usually been badly done, and +there remains a good deal of quicksilver and nitric +acid adhering to the gold. The only way of dealing +with it is to put the whole into a crucible, then make +it red hot, and keep the gold at the melting-point for +five or ten minutes.</p> + +<p>As we have got no furnace of our own on the premises, +I have frequently to march up the street to +the blacksmith's shop, to put John Chinaman's gold +to the test. If John is allowed to go by himself, he +merely waits till the gold gets warm, takes it out +again, and brings it back, saying, "All light; welly +good, welly good gole; no gammon." But you should +see John when I go up to the blacksmith's myself, put +the crucible into the hottest part of the fire, and begin +to blow the bellows! When the gold begins to glow +with heat, and he knows the weight is diminishing by +the quicksilver and dirt that are flying off, he cries, +"Welly hot! too muchee fire; me losem too muchee +money!" But the thing must be done, and John +must take the choice of his dirty gold or the regular +price for it when cleaned. I have known it lose, by +this process of purifying, as much as from five to six +pennyweights in the ounce.</p> + +<p>Sometimes he will bring only a few shillings' worth, +and, when the money is tendered for it, he will turn +it over in his hand, like a London cabman when his +regular fare is given him. One man, who almost invariably +brought only a very small quantity, would begin<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span> +his conversation with, "No more money now—no more +chow-chow (dinner)—no more opium!" Sometimes +matters come to a climax, and he tells us that we "too +much lie and cheatem;" on which we send him out at +the door.</p> + +<p>The lower orders of Chinamen are almost invariably +suspicious that Englishmen cheat them, although some +of them are very decent fellows, and, indeed, kind and +even polite. Several times I have asked them how +they were going to spend the money for which they +had sold their gold—say five shillings; and they would +answer, ingenuously enough, "Two shillings for opium, +three shillings for chow-chow;" leaving no margin for +sundries.</p> + +<p>We buy from the Chinamen as little as three shillings' +worth of gold, and from the mining companies up to +any amount. Some of the latter bring in hundreds of +pounds' worth of gold at a time. The quartz companies +bring theirs in large yellow lumps, of over 200 +ounces, fresh from the retort; and the alluvial companies +generally deposit theirs in leather bags containing +their washings, until the end of the week or +fortnight, when they sell the accumulated product.</p> + +<p>There is, of course, a good deal of excitement and +anxiety about gold-digging. When men get into good +gold-yielding ground, by steady work they contrive to +make fair earnings, and sometimes a good deal of +money; but they have usually to work pretty hard for +it. Of course, the most successful men are working +miners, men who understand the business; for gold-mining<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> +is a business, like any other. The amateur +men, who come in search of lucky finds and sudden +fortunes, rarely do any good. Nearly all the young +fellows, sons of gentlemen, who could do no good at +home and came out here during the "rushes," are still +in no better position than they were at starting. A few +of them may have done well; but the greater number +are bullock-drivers in the country, cab-drivers in Melbourne, +shepherds in the bush, or, still worse, loafers +hanging about the drinking-bars.</p> + +<p>I know many men, of good family and education, +still working as common miners in this neighbourhood. +Although their life is a rough one, they themselves +think it is better than a struggling clerk's life at home; +and perhaps they are right. I know one young man, +formerly a medical student in England, digging for +weekly wages, hired by a company of miners at +2<i>l.</i> 10<i>s.</i> a week; but he is not saving money. He came +out with two cousins, one of whom broke away and +pursued his profession; he is now the head of a military +hospital in India. The other cousin remained in the +colony, and is now a hanger-on about up-country +stations. There is also the son of a baronet here, who +came out in the time of the gold-fever. He has never +advanced a step, but is wood-cutting and rail-splitting +in the bush, like a poor Savoyard. Still the traces of +his education can be seen through the "jumper" shirt +and moleskin trousers, in spite of rough ways and hard +work.</p> + +<p>There are many ups and downs in gold-mining.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> +Sometimes men will work long and perseveringly, and +earn little more than their food; but, buoyed up by +hope, they determine to go on again, and at last, +perhaps, they succeed. One day two men came into +the bank with 120<i>l.</i> worth of gold, the proceeds of +four days' mining on a new claim. They had been +working for a long time without finding anything +worth their while, and at last they struck gold. The +120<i>l.</i> had to be divided amongst six men, and out of +it they had to pay towards the cost of sinking their +shaft and maintaining their three horses which worked +the "whip" for drawing up the water and dirt out of +the mine. When they brought in their gold in a little +tin billy, the men did not seem at all elated by their +good fortune. They are so accustomed to a sudden +turn of luck—good or ill, as the case may be—that the +good fortune on this occasion seemed to be taken as a +matter of course.</p> + +<p>One day, the manager and I went out to see a reef +where some men had struck gold. It lay across the +bare-looking ranges at the north of the township, in +a pretty part of the bush, rather more wooded than +usual. The reef did not look a place for so much +gold to come out of. There were a couple of shafts, +small windlasses above them, and two or three heaps +of dirty-looking brown quartz and refuse. I believe +the reef is very narrow—only from eight inches to +a foot in width; the quartz yielding from eight to +twelve ounces of gold per ton. Thus, ten tons crushed +would give a value of about 400<i>l.</i> Though this may<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> +seem a good yield, it is small compared with richer +quartz. I have heard of one mine which gave 200 +ounces, or 800<i>l.</i>, to the ton of quartz crushed, but this +was unusually rich.</p> + +<p>At some of the larger claims the works are carried +on upon a large scale with the aid of complete machinery. +Let me describe one of the mines, close to +Majorca, down which I went one day to inspect the +operations. It is called the Lowe Kong Meng mine, +and was formerly worked by Chinamen, but had to +be abandoned because of the great quantity of water +encountered, as well as the accidents which constantly +happened to the machinery. The claim was then +taken up by an English company of Tributors, who +pay a percentage of the proceeds of the mine to the +proprietor, the large Chinese merchant, Mr. Lowe Kong +Meng, who resides in Melbourne.</p> + +<p>In some of the shallower workings the men go down +the shaft with their feet in a noose at the end of the +rope; or, in some small and narrow shafts, by holding +on to the sides with their knees and feet. But in large +workings, such as this (which is about 150 feet deep), +we descend in a bucket, as in ordinary mines. What a +speed we go down at! We seem to shoot down into +darkness. There—bump! we are at the bottom. But +I can see nothing; I only hear the drip, drip, and +splashing of water.</p> + +<p>In a few minutes my eyes get accustomed to the +darkness: then I see the dim light of a candle held by +some one not far off. "Come up here," says the guide;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span> +and we shortly find ourselves in a somewhat open +space, more light than the actual bottom of the shaft. +We are each supplied with a dip tallow candle, by +means of which we see where we are. The two drives +branch off from this space: the main is 6 feet 3 inches +in height, broad, and splendidly timbered with stout +wood all the way along. The Chinamen did this +work.</p> + +<p>Water is running everywhere. We try to walk upon +the rails on which the trucks run, to keep our feet dry. +But it is of no use, as there is more water in our way +to get through. Every now and then we slipped off +the rail and down into the water. As we got into the +narrower and lower drives I was continually coming to +grief, my head bumping against the dirty top, my hat +coming off, or my candle getting extinguished.</p> + +<p>We were taken first up to the place where the water +had broken in so heavily upon the Chinamen, and in +which direction the mine could not be worked. Strong +supports of wood held up the gravel, through which +the water poured in, running down the drives of the +well underneath the shaft. What a labyrinth all these +different passages seemed to me! yet I suppose this +claim is a small one compared with many others in +the gold-mining districts.</p> + +<p>Then we were shown a monkey—not the animal, +but a small upright shaft leading into a drive above, +where the wash-dirt was being got out. Should the +course of the wash-dirt, in which the gold is, go downward +below the level of the well or the drives for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span> +draining the mine, the shaft must then be sunk deeper +down. The monkey was rather difficult for me to +scramble up. However, by holding on, and using the +niches at the sides, I managed to mount, as usual with +the loss of my light.</p> + +<p>Along the drive we went, waiting in a corner until +a truck of dirt passed by, and its contents were shot +down the monkey into the tram waiting for it below. +Now we creep up from the drive into a narrower space, +where we crawl along upon our hands and knees. We +shortly came upon four men getting out the wash-dirt, +using their picks while squatting or lying down, and in +all sorts of uncomfortable positions. The perspiration +was steaming down the men's faces as they worked, +for the heat was very great.</p> + +<p>We did not stay long in that hot place, and I did +<i>not</i> take a pick and happen to strike upon a nugget, as +it is said the Duke of Edinburgh did, though I saw a +small dish of the dirt washed when we reached the top, +and it yielded a speck or two. We saw "the colour," +as the expression is. I felt quite relieved at last to +find myself at the top of the shaft, and in the coolness +and freshness of the open air. Here the dirt raised +from the mine is put into the iron puddling-machine, +and worked round and round with water. The water +carries off the mud, the large stones are picked out, +and the gold in the bottom of the machine is +cradled off. Such was my little experience in mine-prospecting.</p> + +<p>I must also tell of my still smaller experience in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> +gold-seeking. One morning a little boy brought in a +nugget for sale, which he had picked up from a heap +of dirt, while he was strolling down the lead outside +the town. After a heavy washing fall of rain, it is not +unusual for small bits of gold to be exposed to sight; +and old diggers often take a ramble amongst the +mullock after rain, to make a search amongst the +heaps. A piece of gold was once brought to us for sale, +weighing about two ounces, that had been thus washed +up by a heavy shower of rain. Inspired by the success +of the little boy, I went out in the afternoon in a pair +of thick boots, and with a pair of sharp eyes, to search +for treasure! It had been raining hard for several +days, and it was a good time for making an inspection +of the old washed-out dirt-heaps. After a long search +I found only one speck of gold, of the value of about +4<i>d.</i> This I was showing with pride to a young lady +friend, who, being playfully inclined, gave my hand a +shake, and my microscopical speck was gone, the first +and last fruits of my gold-seeking.</p> + +<p>Some of the tales told by the old diggers of their +luck in the early days of gold-finding are very interesting. +One of these I can relate almost in the very +words of the man himself to whom the incident +occurred; and it was only an ordinary digger's tale.</p> + +<p>"My mates and I," he said, "were camped in a +gully with some forty or fifty other miners. It was +a little quiet place, a long way from any township. +We had been working some shallow ground; but as +the wash-dirt when reached only yielded about three-quarters<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span> +of a pennyweight (about 3<i>s.</i>) to the dish, we +got sick of it, left our claim, and went to take up +another not far off. About a day or two after we had +settled upon our new ground an old acquaintance of +mine looked in upon us by chance. He was hard up—very +hard up—and wanted to know whether we could +give him anything to do. 'Well, there is our old +place up there,' said I, 'it is not much good, but you +can find enough to keep body and soul together.' So +he went up to our old place, and kept himself in tucker. +A few days after he had been at work, he found that +the further down he dug in one direction the more +gold the soil yielded. At one end of the ground a +reef cropped up, shelving inwards very much. He +quickly saw that against the reef, towards which the +gold-yielding gravel lay, the ground sloping downwards +towards the bottom must be still richer. He got excited, +threw aside the gravel with his shovel, to come +at the real treasure he expected to find. Down he +went, till he reached the slope of the reef, where the +gravel lay up against it. There, in the corner of +the ground, right in the angle of the juncture, as it +were, lay the rich glistening gold, all in pure particles, +mixed with earth and pebbles. He filled his tin dish +with the precious mixture, bore it aloft, and brought +it down to our tent, where, aided by the mates, he +washed off the dirt, and obtained as the product of his +various washings about 1000 ounces of pure gold! The +diggers who were camped about in the gully being a +rough lot, we were afraid to let them know anything<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> +of the prize that had been found. So, without saying +anything, two of us, late one night, set out with the +lucky man and his fortune to the nearest township, +where he sold his gold and set out immediately for +England, where, I believe, he is now. He left us +the remainder of his dirt, which he did not think +anything of, compared with what he had got; and +three of us obtained from it the value of 600<i>l.</i>, or +200<i>l.</i> a man."</p> + +<p>The same digger at another time related to us how +and when he had found his first nugget. He declared +that it was all through a dream, "I dreamt," he said, +"that I sunk a shaft down by the side of a pretty +creek, just under a gum-tree, and close to the water; +that I worked down about ten feet there, put in a drive, +and, whilst I was working, chanced to look up, and +there, sticking in the pipeclay, was a piece of gold +as big as my fist. Such was my dream. It took complete +possession of me. I could think of nothing else. +Some weeks after, I selected just such a site for a +shaft as that I had dreamt of, under a gum-tree, close +by a creek; and there, new-chum like, I put in the +drive at the wrong depth. But, one day, when I had +got quite sick at fruitlessly working in the hole, on +accidentally looking up, sure enough there was my +nugget sticking up in the pipeclay, just as I had +dreamt of it. I took out the gold, sat with it in my +hand, and thought the thing over, but couldn't make it +out at all."</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> The ordinary price of good +gold is 3<i>l.</i> 19<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> the ounce. In +the early days of gold-digging, +the gold was never cleaned, but +bought right off at a low price, +2<i>l.</i> 15<i>s.</i> or 2<i>l.</i> 17<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> an ounce; +the bankers thus often realizing +immense profits.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV</h2> + +<h3>ROUGH LIFE AT THE DIGGINGS—"STOP THIEF!"</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gold-rushing</span>—<span class="smcap">Diggers' Camp at Havelock</span>—<span class="smcap">Murder of Lopez</span>—<span class="smcap">Pursuit +and Capture of the Murderer</span>—<span class="smcap">The Thieves +Hunted from the Camp</span>—<span class="smcap">Death of the Murderer</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Police</span>—<span class="smcap">Attempted Robbery of the Collingwood Bank</span>—<span class="smcap">Another +supposed Robbery</span>—"<span class="smcap">Stop Thief!</span>"—<span class="smcap">Smart use of +the Telegraph</span>.</p> + + +<p>In the times of the early rushes to the gold-fields there +was, as might be expected, a good deal of disorder and +lawlessness. When the rumour of a new gold-field +went abroad, its richness was, as usual, exaggerated in +proportion to the distance it travelled; and men of all +classes rushed from far and near to the new diggings. +Melbourne was half emptied of its labouring population; +sailors deserted their ships; shepherds left +their flocks, and stockmen their cattle; and, worst of +all, there also came pouring into Victoria the looser +part of the convict population of the adjoining colonies. +These all flocked to the last discovered field, which +was invariably reputed the richest that had yet been +discovered.</p> + +<p>Money was rapidly made by some where gold was +found in any abundance; but when the soil proved comparatively<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span> +poor, the crowd soon dispersed in search +of other diggings. A population so suddenly drawn +together by the fierce love of gain, and containing so +large an admixture of the desperado element, could +scarcely be expected to be very orderly. Yet it is +astonishing how soon, after the first rush was over, the +camp would settle down into a state of comparative +order and peaceableness. For it was always the +interest of the majority to put down plundering and +disorder. Their first concern was for the security of +their lives, and their next for the security of the +gold they were able to scrape together.</p> + +<p>When the lawless men about a camp were numerous, +and robberies became frequent, the diggers would suddenly +extemporise a police, rout out the thieves, and +drive them perforce from the camp. I may illustrate +this early state of things by what occurred at Havelock, +a place about seven miles from Majorca. The +gully there was "rushed" about nine years since, when +some twenty thousand diggers were drawn together, with +even more than the usual proportion of grog-shanty +keepers, loafers, thieves, and low men and women of +every description. In fact, the very scum of the roving +population of the colony seems to have accumulated +in the camp; and crime upon crime was committed, +until at length an affair occurred, more dreadful and +outrageous than anything that had preceded it, which +thoroughly roused the digger population, and a rising +took place, which ended in their hunting the whole of +the thieves and scoundrels into the bush.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span></p> + +<p>The affair has been related to me by three of the +persons who were themselves actors in it, and it is +briefly as follows:—At the corner of one of the main +thoroughfares of the camp, composed of canvas tents +and wooden stores, there stood an extemporized restaurant, +kept by a Spaniard named Lopez. A few yards +from his place was a store occupied by a Mr. S——, +now a storekeeper in Majorca, and a customer at our +bank. Opposite to S——'s store stood a tent, the occupants +of which were known to be among the most lawless +ruffians in the camp. S—— had seen the men more +than once watching his store, and he had formed the +conviction that they meant at some convenient opportunity +to rob him, so he never slept without a loaded +revolver under his pillow. One night in particular he +was very anxious. The men stood about at the front +of his store near closing time, suspiciously eyeing his +premises, as he thought. So he put a bold face on, +came to the door near where they were standing, discharged +his pistol in the air—a regular custom in the +diggings at night—reloaded, entered his store, and +bolted himself in. He went to bed at about ten o'clock, +and lay awake listening, for he could not sleep. It +was not very long before he heard some person's steps +close by his hut, and a muttering of smothered voices. +The steps passed on; and then; after the lapse of +about ten minutes, he heard a shot—a scream—and +hurried footsteps running close past his hut. He lay +in bed, determined not to go out, as he feared that this +was only a <i>ruse</i> on the part of the thieves to induce<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> +him to open his door. But soon he heard shouts outside, +as of persons in pursuit of some one, and jumping +out of bed, he ran out half dressed and joined in the +chase.</p> + +<p>Now, this is what had happened during the ten +minutes that he had lain in bed listening. The thieves +had stolen past his store, as he had heard them, and +gone forward to the restaurant kept by the Spaniard. +They looked into the bar, and through the chinks of +the wood they saw Lopez counting over the money he +had taken during the day. The bar was closed, but +the men knocked at the door for admission. Lopez +asked what they wanted; the reply was that they +wished for admission to have a drink. After some +demur, Lopez at last opened the door, and the men +entered. Nobblers were ordered, and while Lopez was +reaching for a bottle, one of the thieves, named Brooke, +made a grab at the money lying in the open drawer. +The landlord saw his hand, and instantly snatching up +a large Spanish knife which lay behind the counter, he +made a lunge at Brooke, and so fiercely did he strike +that the knife ripped up the man's abdomen. With a +yell of rage, Brooke drew his revolver, instantly shot +Lopez through the head, and he fell dead without a +groan.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile the other thieves had fled; and now +Brooke himself, holding his wound together with his +hand, ran out of the house, through the street of tents, +across the lead, and into the bush. But the hue and +cry had been raised; the diggers bundled out of their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span> +tents, and before the murderer had reached the cover +of the bush, already a dozen men were on his track. It +was full moon, and they could see him clearly, holding +on his way, avoiding the crab-holes, and running at a +good speed notwithstanding his fearful wound. Among +the foremost of the pursuers were a trooper and an +active little fellow who is now living in Majorca. They +got nearer and nearer to Brooke, who turned from time +to time to watch their advance. The trooper was gaining +upon him fast; but when within about fifteen yards +of him Brooke turned, took aim with his revolver, and +deliberately fired. The aim was too true: the trooper +fell dead, shot right through the heart. Brooke turned +to fly immediately he had fired his shot, but the root +of a tree behind him tripped him up, and the little +man who followed close behind the trooper was upon +him in an instant, with his knee upon his body holding +him down. Brooke managed to turn himself half +round, presented his revolver at his captor, and fired. +The cap snapped on the nipple! My friend says +he will never forget the look the wretch gave him +when his pistol missed fire. A few minutes—long, +long minutes—passed, and at length help arrived and +the murderer was secured. The number shortly increased +to a crowd of angry diggers. At first they +wished to hang Brooke at once upon the nearest tree; +but moderate counsels prevailed, and at last they agreed +to take him into Havelock and send for a doctor.</p> + +<p>When the crowd got back to Havelock their fury +broke out. They determined to level the thieves'<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span> +tents and the grog-shanties that had harboured them. +What a wild scene it must have been! Two or three +thousand men pulling down huts and tents, smashing +crockery and furniture, ripping up beds, and levelling +the roosts of infamy to the ground. When Dr. Laidman, +the doctor sent for from Maryborough, arrived +to attend the dying man, he saw a cloud of "white +things" in the air, and could not make out what they +were. They turned out to be the feathers of the +numerous feather-beds, which the diggers had torn +to pieces, that were flying about. The diggers' blood +was fairly up, and they were determined to make "a +clean job of it" before they had done. And not only +did they thoroughly root out and destroy all the +thieves' dens and low grog-shops and places of ill-fame, +but they literally hunted the owners and occupants of +them right out into the bush.</p> + +<p>I must now tell you of the murderer's end. He was +taken to the rude theatre of the place, and laid down +upon the stage, with his two victims beside him—the +dead Lopez on one side and the dead trooper on the +other. When the doctor arrived, he examined Brooke, +and told him he would try to keep him alive, so that +justice might be done. And the doctor did his best. +But the Spaniard's wound had been terrible and deadly. +Brooke died in about half an hour from the time of the +doctor's arrival The murderer remained impenitent +to the last, and opened his mouth only once to utter +an oath. Such was the horrible ending of this digger's +tragedy.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span></p> + +<p>Cases such as this are, however, of rare occurrence. +So soon as a digging becomes established, a regular +police is employed to ensure order, and local self-government +soon follows. We had often occasion to +ride over to Maryborough, taking with us gold; but +though we were well known in the place, and our +errand might be surmised, we were never molested, +nor, indeed, entertained the slightest apprehension of +danger. It is true that in the bank we usually had a +loaded revolver lying in the drawer ready at hand, in +case it should be needed; but we had never occasion to +use it.</p> + +<p>Some years ago, however, an actual attempt was +openly made to rob a bank in Collingwood, a suburb +of Melbourne, which was very gallantly resisted. The +bank stood in a well-frequented part of the town, where +people were constantly passing to and fro. One day +two men entered it during office hours. One of them +deliberately bolted the door, and the other marched +up to the counter and presented a pistol at the head of +the accountant who stood behind it. Nothing daunted, +the young man at once vaulted over the counter, +calling loudly to the manager for help, and collared +the ruffian, whose pistol went off as he went down. +The manager rushed out from his room, and tackled the +other fellow. Both the robbers were strong, powerful +men, but they fought without the courage of honesty. +The struggle was long and desperate, until at last +assistance came, and both were secured. A presentation +of plate was made to the two officials who had so<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span> +courageously done their duty, and they are still in the +service of the same bank.</p> + +<p>In direct contrast to this case, I may mention a rather +mysterious circumstance which occurred at an up-country +bank, situated in a quartz-mining district. I must first +explain that the bank building is situated in a street, +with houses on both sides, and that any noise in it +would readily be heard by the neighbours. One young +fellow only was in charge of the place. The manager +of a neighbouring branch called weekly for the surplus +cash and the gold bought during the week. The +youth in charge suddenly reported one day that he +had been "stuck up," as the colonial phrase is for +being robbed. He said that one night, as he was going +into the bank, where he slept—in fact just as he was +putting the key into the lock—a man came up to him, +and, clapping a pistol to his head, demanded the key of +the safe. He gave it him, showed him where the +gold and notes were kept, and, in fact, enabled the +robber to make up a decent "swag." The man, whoever +he was, got away with all the money. The bank +thought it their duty to proceed against the clerk +himself for appropriating the money. But the proof +was insufficient, and the verdict brought in was "Not +guilty."</p> + +<p>We were one day somewhat alarmed at Majorca by +a letter received from our manager at Maryborough, +informing us that a great many bad characters were +known to be abroad and at work—and cautioning us +to be particularly upon our guard. We were directed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span> +to discharge our firearms frequently and keep them +in good order, so that in case of need they should not +miss fire. We were also to give due notice when we +required notes from Maryborough, so that the messenger +appointed to bring them over should be accompanied +by a complete escort, <i>i.e.</i>, a mounted trooper. +All this was very alarming, and we prepared for events +accordingly.</p> + +<p>A few nights after, as we were sitting under the +manse verandah, we heard a loud cry of "Stop thief!" +The robbers, then, were already in the township! We +jumped up at once, looked round the corner of the +house, and saw two men running off as fast as they +could, followed at some distance by another man +shouting frantically, "Stop thief!" We immediately +started in pursuit of the supposed thieves. We soon +came up with the man who had been robbed, and +whom we found swearing in a most dreadful way. +This we were very much astonished at, as we recognised +in him one of the most pious Wesleyans in the +township. But we soon shot ahead of him, and gradually +came up with the thieves, whom we at first supposed +to be Chinamen. As we were close upon them, +they suddenly stopped, turned round, and burst out +laughing! Surely there must be some mistake! We +recognised in the "thieves" the son of the old gentleman +whom we had just passed, with one of his companions, +who had pretended to steal his fowls, as +Chinamen are apt to do: whereas they had really +carried off nothing at all. In short, we, as well as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span> +our respected Wesleyan friend, felt ourselves completely +"sold."</p> + +<p>The only attempt at dishonesty practised upon our +branch which I can recollect while at Majorca was +one of fraud and not of force. We had just been +placed in telegraphic communication with the other +towns in the colony. The opening of the telegraph +was celebrated, as usual, by the Town Council "shouting" +champagne. Some time before, a working-man, +who had some money deposited with us, called in a +fluster to say his receipts had been stolen. This was +noted. Now came a telegram from Ballarat, saying +that a receipt of our branch had been presented for +payment, and asking if it was correct. We answered +sharp, ordering the man to be detained. He was +accordingly taken into custody, handed over to the +police, and remanded to Newstead, where the receipt +had been stolen. Newstead is a long way from +Majorca, but our manager drove over with a pair of +horses to give his evidence. It turned out that our +customer's coat, containing the receipt, had been stolen +while he was at his work. The thief was identified as +having been seen hanging about the place; and the +result was that he was committed, tried, and duly +convicted. So you see that we are pretty smart out +here, and not a long way behind the old country +after all.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI.</h2> + +<h3>PLACES ABOUT.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Visit to Ballarat</span>—<span class="smcap">The Journey by Coach</span>—<span class="smcap">Ballarat founded +on Gold</span>—<span class="smcap">Description of the Town</span>—<span class="smcap">Ballarat "Corner"</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Speculative Cobbler</span>—<span class="smcap">Fire Brigades</span>—<span class="smcap">Return Journey</span>—<span class="smcap">Crab-holes</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Talbot Ball</span>—<span class="smcap">The Talbot Fête</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Avoca Races</span>—<span class="smcap">Sunrise in the Bush</span>.</p> + + +<p>One of the most interesting visits to places that I made +while staying at Majorca was to Ballarat, the mining +capital of the colony, sometimes called here the Victorian +Manchester. The time of my visit was not the +most propitious, for it was shortly after a heavy fall +of rain, which had left the roads in a very bad state. +But I will describe my journey.</p> + +<p>Three of us hired a one-horse buggy to take us on +to Clunes, which lay in our way. The load was rather +too much for the horse, but we took turn and turn +about at walking, and made it as light for the animal +as possible. At Clunes I parted with my companions, +who determined to take the buggy on to Ballarat. I +thought it preferable to wait for the afternoon coach; +and after being hospitably entertained at dinner by +the manager of our Branch Bank at Clunes, I took my +place in the coach for Ballarat.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span></p> + +<p>We had not gone more than about a mile when the +metalled road ended, and the Slough of Despond began,—the +road so called, though it was little more than a +deep mud-track, winding up a steepish ascent. All +the passengers got out and walked up the hill. In the +distance we saw a buggy in difficulties. I had already +apprehended the fate of my mates who had gone on +before me, and avoided sharing it by taking my place +in the coach. But we were in little better straits ourselves. +When we got up to the buggy, we found it +fairly stuck in the mud, in one of the worst parts of +the road, with a trace broken. I got under the rails +of the paddock in which the coach passengers were +walking—for it was impossible to walk in the road—and +crossed over to where my former mates were stuck. +They were out in the deep mud, almost knee-deep, +trying to mend the broken trace. Altogether they +looked in a very sorry plight.</p> + +<p>At the top of the hill we again mounted the coach, +and got on very well for about three miles, until we +came to another very bad piece of road. Here we +diverged from it altogether, and proceeded into an +adjoining field, so as to drive alongside the road, and +join it a little further on. The ground looked to me +very soft, and so it was. For we had not gone far +when the coach gave a plunge, and the wheels sank +axle-deep in a crab-hole. All hands had now to set +to work to help the coach out of the mud; while the +driver urged his horses with cries and cracks of his +long whip. But it was of no use. The two wheelers<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span> +were fairly exhausted, and their struggling only sent +them deeper into the mud. The horses were then +unharnessed, and the three strongest were yoked in a +line, so as to give the foremost of them a better foot-hold. +But it was still of no use. It was not until the +mud round the wheels had been all dug out, and the +passengers lifted the hind wheels and the coach bodily +up, that the horses were at last able to extricate the +vehicle. By this time we were all in a sad state of +dirt and wet, for the rain had begun to fall quite +steadily.</p> + +<p>Shortly after, we reached the half-way house and +changed horses. We now rattled along at a pretty +good pace. But every now and then the driver would +shout, "Look out inside!" and there would be a sudden +roll, followed by a jerk and pitch combined, and you +would be thrown over upon your opposite neighbour, +or he upon you. At last, after a rather uncomfortable +journey, we reached the outskirts of a large town, and +in a few minutes more we found ourselves safely +jolted into Ballarat.</p> + +<p>I am not at all up in the statistics of the colony, +and cannot tell the population or the number of inhabited +houses in Ballarat.<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> But it is an immense +place, second in importance in the colony only to Melbourne. +Big though it be, like most of these up-country +towns, Ballarat originated in a rush. It was +only in September, 1851, that a blacksmith at Buningong,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span> +named Hiscocks, who had long been searching +for gold, traced a mountain-torrent back into the hills +towards the north, and came upon the rich lode which +soon became known as the "Ballarat Diggings." When +the rumour of the discovery got abroad, there was a +great rush of people to the place, accompanied by the +usual disorders; but they gradually settled down, and +Ballarat was founded. The whole soil of the place +was found to contain more or less gold. It was +gathered in the ranges, on the flats, in the water-courses, +and especially in the small veins of blue clay, +lying almost above the so-called "pipeclay." The +gold was to all appearance quite pure, and was found +in rolled or water-course irregular lumps of various +sizes, from a quarter or half an ounce in weight, sometimes +incorporated with round pebbles of quartz, which +appeared to have formed the original matrix.</p> + +<p>The digging was at first for the most part alluvial, +but when skilled miners arrived from England, operations +were begun on a much larger scale, until now it +is conducted upon a regular system, by means of costly +machinery and highly-organised labour. To give an +idea of the extensive character of the operations, I +may mention that one company, the Band of Hope, has +erected machinery of the value of 70,000<i>l.</i> The main +shaft, from which the various workings branch out, is +420 feet deep; and 350 men are employed in and about +the mine. It may also be mentioned that the deeper +the workings have gone, the richer has been the yield +of gold. This one company has, in a comparatively<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span> +short time, raised gold worth over half a million sterling; +the quantity produced by the Ballarat mines, +since the discovery of gold in September, 1851, to the +end of 1866, having been worth about one hundred and +thirty millions sterling.</p> + +<p>The morning after my arrival in Ballarat I proceeded +to survey the town, I was certainly surprised +at the fine streets, the large buildings, and the number +of people walking along the broad pathways. Perhaps +my surprise was magnified by the circumstance that +nearly fifteen months had passed since I had been in a +large town; and, after Majorca, Ballarat seemed to +me like a capital. After wandering about the streets +for half an hour, I looked into the Court-house, where +an uninteresting case of drunkenness was being +heard. I next went into the adjoining large building, +which I found to be the Public Library. The commodious +reading-room was amply supplied with books, +magazines, and newspapers; and here I amused myself +for an hour in reading a new book. Over the mantel-piece +of the large room hangs an oil painting of Prince +Alfred, representing him and his "mates" after the +visit they had made to one of the Ballarat mines. +This provision of excellent reading-rooms—free and +open to all—seems to me an admirable feature of the +Victorian towns. They are the best sort of supplement +to the common day-schools; and furnish a salutary +refuge for all sober-minded men, from the temptations +of the grog-shops. But besides the Public Library, +there is also the Mechanics' Institute, in Sturt Street;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> +a fine building, provided also with a large library, and +all the latest English newspapers, free to strangers.</p> + +<p>The features of the town that most struck me in +the course of the day were these. First, Sturt Street: +a fine, broad street, at least three chains wide. On each +side are large handsome shops, and along the middle +of the road runs a broad strip of garden, with large +trees and well-kept beds of flowers. Sturt Street is on +an incline; and at the top of it runs Ledyard Street, +at right angles, also a fine broad street. It contains +the principal banks, of which I counted nine, all handsome +stone buildings, the London Chartered, built on +a foundation of blue-stone, being perhaps the finest of +them in an architectural point of view. Close to it is +the famous "Corner." What the Bourse is in Paris, +Wall Street in New York, and the Exchange in London—that +is the "Corner" at Ballarat. Under the verandah +of the Unicorn Hotel, and close to the Exchange Buildings, +there is a continual swarm of speculators, managers +of companies, and mining men, standing about in +groups, very like so many circles of betting-men on +a race-course. Here all the mining swindles originate. +Specimens of gold-bearing quartz are shown, shares are +bought and sold, new schemes are ventilated, and old +ones revived. Many fortunes have been lost and won +on that bit of pavement.</p> + +<p>One man is reckoned as good as another in Ballarat. +Even the cad of a baker's boy has the chance of making +"a pile," while the swell broker, who dabbles in mines +and reefs, may be beggared in a few days. As one of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span> +the many instances of men growing suddenly rich +by speculation here, I may mention the following. A +short time since, a cobbler at Ballarat had a present +made to him of twenty scrip in a company that was +looking so bad that the shares had become unsaleable. +The cobbler knew nothing of the mine, but he held the +scrip. Not only so, but he bought more at a shilling +or two apiece, and he went on accumulating them, +until at the end of the year he had scraped together +some two or three hundred. At length he heard that +gold had been struck. He went to a bank, deposited his +scrip certificates, and raised upon them all the money +he could borrow. He bought more shares. They +trebled in value. He held on. They trebled again. At +last, when the gold was being got almost by the bucket, +and a great mania for the shares had set in, the cobbler +sold out at 250<i>l.</i> a share, and found himself a rich man. +The mine was, I think, the Sir William Don, one of +the most successful in Ballarat, now yielding a dividend +of about 2<i>l.</i> per share per month, or a return of about +500 per cent. on the paid-up capital.</p> + +<p>But to return to my description of Ballarat. The +town lies in a valley between two slopes, spreading +up on both sides and over the summits. Each summit +is surmounted by a lofty tower, built by the Eastern +and Western Fire Brigades. These towers command a +view of the whole place, and are continually occupied +by watchmen, who immediately give the alarm on the +outbreak of fire. The people here say that the Ballarat +Fire Brigade is the smartest in the southern<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span> +hemisphere; though the engines are all manned by +volunteers. And a fire must be a serious matter in +Ballarat, where so many of the buildings—stores as +well as dwellings—are built entirely of wood. Many +of the streets are even paved with wood.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon I ascended the western hill, from +which I obtained a fine bird's-eye view of the town. +The large, broad streets, at right angles to each other, +looked well laid out, neat, and clean looking. What +seemed strangest of all was the lazy puffing of the +engines over the claims, throwing out their white jets +of steam. But for the width of the streets, and the +cleanness of the place, one might almost have taken +Ballarat for a manufacturing town in Yorkshire, though +they have no flower gardens along the middle of their +streets!</p> + +<p>In the evening I went to the opera—for Ballarat +has an opera! The piece was 'Faust,' and was performed +by Lyster and Smith's company from Melbourne. +The performers did their best, but I cannot +say they are very strong in opera yet at the Antipodes.</p> + +<p>After thoroughly doing Ballarat, I set out on my +return to Majorca. There was the same jolting as +before, but this time the coach did not stick in the +mud. On reaching Clunes, I resolved to walk straight +to Majorca across the plain, instead of going the +roundabout way by the road. But the straightest route +is not always the shortest, as my experience on this +occasion proved. I had scarcely got fairly into the +plain before I found myself in the midst of a succession<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> +of crab-holes. These are irregular depressions, about a +yard or so apart, formed by the washing up of the +soil by eddies during floods, and now the holes were +all full of water. It was a difficult and tedious process +to work one's way through amongst them, for they +seemed to dovetail into one another, and often I had +to make a considerable détour to get round the worst of +them. This crab-holey ground continued for about four +miles, after which I struck into the bush, making for +the ranges, and keeping Mount Greenock and Mount +Glasgow before me as landmarks. Not being a good +bushman, I suspect I went several miles out of my +way. However, by dint of steady walking, I contrived +to do the sixteen miles in about four hours; but +if I have ever occasion to walk from Clunes again, I +will take care to take the roundabout road, and not +to make the journey <i>en zigzag</i> round crab-holes and +through the bush.</p> + +<p>Among the other places about here that I have +visited were Talbot, about seven miles distant, and +Avoca, about twenty. One of the occasions of my going +to Talbot was to attend a ball given there, and another +to attend a great fête for the benefit of the Amherst +Hospital. Talbot gives its name to the county, though +by no means the largest town in it. The town is very +neat and tidy, and contains some good stone and brick +buildings. It consists of one principal street, with +several little offshoots.</p> + +<p>The ball was very like a ball at home, though a +little more mixed. The young ladies were some of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span> +them very pretty, and nicely dressed—some in dresses +"direct from London"—while a few of the elder ladies +were gorgeous but incongruous. One old lady, in a +juvenile dress, wore an enormous gold brooch, large +enough to contain the portraits of several families. I +was astonished to learn the great distances that some of +the ladies and gentlemen had come to be present at +the ball. Some had driven through the bush twenty +and even thirty miles; but distance is thought nothing +of here, especially when there is a chance of "meeting +company." The ball was given in the Odd Fellows' +Hall, a large square room. One end of it was partitioned +off as a supper-room, and on the partition +was sewn up in large letters this couplet from 'Childe +Harold:'—</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"No sleep till morn, when Youth and Pleasure meet,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">To chase the glowing hours with flying feet."</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>And, to speak the truth, the young ladies, as well as +the young gentlemen present, did ample justice to the +text. The dancing continued until daybreak, and +we drove back to Majorca as the sun was rising; but +remember it was summer time, in November, when the +sun rises very early.</p> + +<p>One little event arose out of this ball which may +serve to illustrate the comparative freeness of up-country +manners. A nice young lady, with whom I +danced, asked me if I would not like to be very great +friends with her. "Oh, yes! certainly." And great +friends we became at once. Perhaps she took pity +on the stranger boy so far from home. She asked if<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span> +I was fond of riding. "Very fond." "Then I will +come over to Majorca, and call upon you, and we shall +have a ride in the bush together." And I was to be +sure and have some sweets ready for her, as she was +very fond of them. I took this to be merely a little +ball-room chaff; but judge my surprise when, next +afternoon, the young lady rode up to the bank door +and called on me to fulfil my promise,—which I did, +lollipops and all.</p> + +<p>A great event in Talbot is the Annual Fête, held +on the Prince of Wales's birthday, which is observed +as a public holiday in Victoria. The fête this year +was held in aid of the funds of the Amherst Hospital, a +valuable local institution. At this affair the whole +population of the neighbourhood turned out. It began +at midday with a grand procession through the town. +Let me endeavour to give you an idea of the pageant. +First came the well-mounted Clunes Lancers, in their +light blue and white uniforms, 150 strong, blue and +white pennons fluttering from their long lances. Then +came lines of members of Friendly Societies, in gay +scarfs, accompanied by banners. Then a good band +of music. The Talbot 42nd Sectional Lancers next +turn the corner of the street, gorgeous in scarlet and +white. Then comes something comic—a Welsh lady +and gentleman riding a pony barebacked. These are +followed by an Irish couple, also mounted. Then +comes a Highlandman, in a vehicle such as the Highlands +never saw, discoursing music from his bagpipes. +A large open boat follows, mounted on a car;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> +it is filled with sailor-boys in blue and white. This +boat is a model of the 'Cerberus,' the turret-ship +that Mr. Reed is building in England for the defence +of Port Phillip. A genuine old salt, with long white +hair, plays the part of admiral. In cocked hat, blue +admiral's coat, and white ducks, he waves his sword +frantically, and gives the word of command to repel +boarders; all the while two little cannons in the +model are being constantly fired, reloaded, and fired +again. This noisy exhibition having passed, a trophy +representing the Australian chase appears. A huntsman, +dressed in green, blowing his horn, stands amidst +some bushes, holding a handsome leash of hounds; +dead kangaroos and other Australian animals lie around +him. Then follow more lancers. After this comes a +huge car, two stories high, with all sorts of odd characters +in it: a clown, with his "Here we are again!" +playing pranks on two sedate-looking Chinamen; a +little fairy boy or girl, flirting with a magician; dragons +snapping; strange birds screeching; three bears, one +playing a violin, but the tune it plays is drowned by +the hubbub of noise and bands. A lady, of the time +of Elizabeth, gorgeous in ruffles, follows on horseback. +Then knights in armour, one of them with a stuffed +'possum snarling on the top of his helmet. Another +band. Then the solemn brethren of the Order of +Druids, in white gowns, bald heads, and grey beards. +A company of sweeps comes next, attended by an +active Jack-in-the-Green. Now an Indian doctor +appears, smoking a long pipe in his chariot, drawn by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> +a Brahmin bull. Another band, and then the rear is +brought up by more cavalry. There were seven bands—good +ones, too—in the procession, which took full +twenty minutes to pass the hotel, on the balcony of +which I stood. I have seen the London Lord Mayor's +Show, but must confess the Talbot procession beats it +hollow.</p> + +<p>After the procession, we all adjourned to the race-course, +where the collection for the hospital was to be +made. The admission was eighteen-pence; a good sum +for working people to give, yet everybody was there. +There was an amateur Richardson's show, a magician's +tent, Cheap John's merry-go-rounds, and all sorts of +amusements to be had by paying for them; and, above +all, there was the bazaar, presided over by the ladies +of Talbot, who succeeded in selling a large quantity of +useless things at the usual exorbitant prices. There +was also a large dancing-platform roofed with canvas, +which was very well frequented. Most popular of all, +perhaps, were the refreshment-bars, where the publicans +gave the liquor free, but charged the usual prices +for the good of the hospital fund; and the teetotallers, +not to be outdone, managed a very comfortable tea-room. +In short, all the usual expedients for raising +money were cleverly resorted to, and the result was +that between 1400<i>l.</i> and 1500<i>l.</i> was added to the funds +of the hospital, about 500<i>l.</i> of which was taken at the +ladies' bazaar. Altogether, there were not less than +5000 people on the ground, though I believe the newspapers +gave a considerably higher number.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span></p> + +<p>The Avoca races were not very different from races +in England. Every town hereabouts has its races, even +Majorca. The Carrisbrook race-course, about four miles +from our town, is considered second to none in the +colony. Avoca, however, is a bigger place, and the +races there draw a much larger crowd. We drove +the twenty miles thither by road and bush-track. The +ground was perfectly dry, for there had been no rain +for some time; and, as the wind was in our faces, it +drove the clouds of dust behind us. I found the town +itself large and well-built. What particularly struck +me was the enormous width of the main street,—at least +three chains wide. The houses on either side of the +road were so remote from each other that they might +have belonged to different townships. I was told that +the reason of this great width of street was, that the +Government had reserved this broad space of ground, +the main street of Avoca forming part of the road to +Adelaide, which may at some future time become a +great and crowded highway. One of the finest buildings +in the town is a handsome hotel, built of stone +and brick, provided with a ball-room, billiard-rooms, +and such like. It is altogether the finest up-country +place of the kind that I have seen. Here we put up, +and join the crowd of loungers under the verandah. +Young swells got up in high summer costume—cutaway +coats, white hats, and blue net veils—just as at +Epsom on the Derby Day. There are also others, +heavy-looking colonials, who have come out evidently +to make a day of it, and are already freely imbibing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span> +cold brandy and water. Traps and cars are passing up +and down the street, in quest of passengers for the +race-course, about two miles from the town.</p> + +<p>There we find the same sort of entertainments provided +for the public as on like occasions at home. The +course is about a mile and a half in extent, with the +ground well cleared. There is the saddling paddock, +in which the "knowing ones" take great interest; and +there are the usual booths for the sale of refreshments, +and especially of drink. In front of the Grand Stand +the betting-men from Melbourne are pointed out to +me,—a sharp, rough-looking set they are, dressed in +Tweed suits and flash ties, wearing diamond rings. +One of them, a blear-eyed, tall, strong man, with bushy +brown whiskers, bawling out his "two to one" on such +and such a horse—an ugly-looking customer—was described +to me as "the <i>second</i> biggest blackguard in +Victoria; give him a wide berth." Another of the +betting-men was pointed out to me as having been a +guard on the South-Eastern Railway some ten years +ago. I need not describe the races: they were like +most others. There were flat races and hurdle races. +Six horses ran for the District Plate. Four of them +came in to the winning-post, running neck and neck. +The race was won by only a head.</p> + +<p>My friend remained on the course until it was too +late to return to Majorca that night. As the moon did +not rise until towards morning, we were under the +necessity of waiting until then, otherwise we might get +benighted in the bush. We tried to find a bed in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span> +the hotel, but in vain. All the beds and sofas in +Avoca were occupied. Even the billiard tables were +engaged for the night.</p> + +<p>We set out on our return journey to Majorca just +as the moon was rising. She was only in her second +quarter, and did not yet give light enough to enable +us to see the road very clearly, so that we went very +cautiously at first. While my companion drove, I +snatched the opportunity for a sleep. I nodded and +dozed from time to time, wakening up suddenly to find +a large bright star blinking before my eyes. The star +sank lower and lower towards the horizon. The green-gold +rays of the morning sun rose up to meet it. The +star hovered between the pale growing light below +and the dark blue sky above. Then it melted away +in the glow of sunrise. The half-moon still cast our +shadow on the dusty track. But not for long. The +zone of yellow light in the east grows rapidly larger +and brighter. The brilliant edge of the god of day +tips the horizon; a burst of light follows; and now the +morning sun, day's harbinger, "comes dancing up the +east." The summits of the trees far away in the silent +bush are bathed in gold. The near trees, that looked +so weird-like in the moon's half light, are now decked +in green. The chill of the night has departed. It is +already broad day. By the time we reach Amherst, +eight miles from Majorca, we are glad to shade ourselves +from the blazing sun. In an hour more we +reach our destination, and after breakfast and a bath, +are ready to begin the day's duties.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> The population, in 1857, was 4971; in 1861, 21,104. It is now +nearly 50,000.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII.</h2> + +<h3>CONCLUSION OF MAJORCAN LIFE.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Victorian Life English</span>—<span class="smcap">Arrival of the Home Mail</span>—<span class="smcap">News of +the Franco-German War</span>—<span class="smcap">The German Settlers in Majorca</span>—<span class="smcap">The +single Frenchman</span>—<span class="smcap">Majorcan public Teas</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Church</span>—<span class="smcap">The Ranters</span>—<span class="smcap">The Teetotallers</span>—<span class="smcap">The Common +School</span>—<span class="smcap">The Roman Catholics</span>—<span class="smcap">Common School Fête and +Entertainment</span>—<span class="smcap">The Mechanics' Institute</span>—<span class="smcap">Funeral of the +Town Clerk</span>—<span class="smcap">Departure from Majorca</span>—<span class="smcap">The Colony of +Victoria</span>.</p> + + +<p>The reader will observe, from what I have above written, +that life in Victoria is very much like life in England. +There are the same people, the same callings, the same +pleasures and pursuits, and, as some would say, the +same follies and vices. There are the same religious +bodies, the same political movements, the same social +agencies—Teetotal Societies, Mechanics' Institutes, +Friendly Societies, and such like. Indeed, Victoria is +only another England, with a difference, at the Antipodes. +The character, the habits of life, and tone of +thought of the people, are essentially English.</p> + +<p>You have only to see the interest with which the +arrival of every mail from England is watched, to +recognise the strength of the tie that continues to unite +the people of the colony with those of the Old Country. +A flag is hoisted over the Melbourne Post Office to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span> +announce its coming, and soon the news is flashed by +telegraph all over the colony. Every local post-office +is eagerly besieged by the expecters of letters and +newspapers. Speaking for myself, my most exciting +day in the month was that on which my home letters +arrived; and I wrote at intervals all through the month +against the departure of the outgoing mail.</p> + +<p>The excitement throughout the colony became intense +when the news arrived from England of the defeat of +the French before Metz. The first news came by the +'Point de Galle,' and then, six days later, intelligence +was received <i>viâ</i> San Francisco, of the disaster at +Sedan. Crowds besieged the office of the local paper +at Talbot when the mail was telegraphed; and the +doors had to be shut to keep them out until the telegram +could be set up in type and struck off. At +first the news was not believed, it was so extraordinary +and unexpected; but the Germans in the town accepted +it at once as true, and began their rejoicings forthwith. +The Irish at Talbot were also very much excited, and +wished to have a fight, but they did not exactly know +with whom.</p> + +<p>There are considerable numbers of Germans settled +throughout the colony, and they are a very useful and +industrious class of settlers. They are for the most +part sober and hard-working men. I must also add +that they minister in no small degree to the public +amusement. At Maryborough they give very good +concerts. Here, the only band in the town is furnished +by the German settlers, and being a very good one, it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span> +is in request on all public occasions. The greater +number of the Germans live at MacCullum's Creek, +about a mile distant, where they have recently opened +a Verein or Club, celebrating the event, as usual, by a +dance. It was a very gay affair. The frantic Deutschers +and their Fraus danced like mad things—Tyrolese +waltzes and old-fashioned quadrilles. There was a great +deal of singing in praise of Vaterland and Freundschaft, +with no end of "Hochs!" They kept it up, I was told, +until broad daylight, dispersing about eight o'clock in +the morning.</p> + +<p>The Germans also give an annual picnic, which is a +great event in the place. There is a procession in the +morning, headed by their band and the German tri-colour +flag. In the afternoon there are sports; and in +the evening continuous dancing in a large marquee. +One of the chief sports of the afternoon is "Shooting +at the Eagle" with a cross-bow, and trying to knock off +the crown or sceptre from the effigy of a bird, crowned +with an eagle and holding a sceptre, stuck up on the +top of a high pole. The crown or the sceptre represents +a high prize, and each feather struck off represents +a prize of some value or other.</p> + +<p>The French have only one representative in the +town. As I soon got to know everybody in the place, +dropping in upon them in their houses, and chatting +with them about the last news from home, I also made +the acquaintance of the Frenchman. He had last come +from Buenos Ayres, accompanied by Madame. Of course +the news about the defeat of the French army was all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span> +false—merely a vile <i>canard</i>. We shall soon know all. +I confess I like this French couple very much. Their +little house is always so trim and neat. Fresh-plucked +flowers are usually set out on the mantel-piece, on the +arrangement and decoration of which Madame evidently +prides herself. Good taste is so cheap and so pleasant +a thing, that I wish it were possible for these French +people to inoculate their neighbours with a little of it. +But rough plenty seems to be sufficient for the Anglo-Saxon.</p> + +<p>I must tell you of a few more of the doings of the +place, to show how very much life here resembles life +in England. The place is of course newer, the aggregation +of society is more recent, life is more rough +and ready, more free and easy, and that is nearly all +the difference. The people have brought with them +from the old country their habits of industry, their +taste for holidays, their religious spirit, their desire for +education, their love of home life.</p> + +<p>Public Teas are an institution in Majorca, as at home. +There being but little provision for the maintenance of +religious worship, there is a constant whipping up for +money; and tea-meetings are usually resorted to for +the purpose of stimulating the flagging energies of the +people. Speakers from a distance are advertised, provisions +and hot water are provided in abundance; and +after a gorge of tea and buns, speeches are fired off, +and the hat goes round.</p> + +<p>We had a great disappointment on one occasion, +when the Archdeacon of Castlemaine was advertised to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span> +preach a sermon in aid of our church fund, and preside +at the subsequent tea-meeting. Posters were stuck up; +great preparatory arrangements were made; but the +Archdeacon did not come. Some hitch must have +occurred. But we had our tea nevertheless.</p> + +<p>The Ranters also are great at tea-meetings, but still +greater at revival meetings. Matthew Burnett, "the +great Yorkshire evangelist," came to our town to rouse +us from our apathy, and he certainly contrived to work +up many people, especially women, to a high pitch of +excitement. The meetings being held in the evenings, +and continued far into the nights, the howling, shouting, +and groaning were by no means agreeable noises +to such sinners in their immediate neighbourhood as +slept lightly,—of whom I was one.</p> + +<p>Burnett was at the same time the great star of the +Teetotallers, who held him in much esteem. He was +a man of a rough sort of eloquence, probably the best +suited for the sort of people whom he came to address +and sought to reclaim; for fine tools are useless for +doing rough work. Another very good speaker at their +meetings was known as Yankee Bill, whose homely +appeals were often very striking, and even affecting in +a degree. At intervals they sang hymns, and sang +them very well. They thus cultivated some taste for +music. They also kept people for the time being out +of their favourite "publics." Like many teetotallers, +however, they were very intolerant of non-teetotallers. +Some even went so far as to say that one must be a +teetotaller to get to heaven. Yet, notwithstanding all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span> +their exaggerations, the teetotallers do much good; +and their rough appeals often penetrate hearts and +heads that would be impervious to gentler and finer +influences.</p> + +<p>Let me not forget to mention the public entertainments +got up for the benefit of the common school +of the town. The existing schools being found too +small for the large number of children who attend, it +was proposed to erect another wing for the purposes +of an infant school. With this object, active efforts +were made to raise subscriptions; the understanding +being that the Government gives a pound for every +pound collected in the district.</p> + +<p>The difficulties in managing these common schools +seem to be considerable, where members of different +religious persuasions sit on the Managing Committee. +At Majorca the principal difficulty seemed to be with +the Roman Catholics; and it was said that their priest +had threatened to refuse absolution to such parents as +allowed their children to attend the common school. +Whatever truth there might be in this story, it is +certain that about thirty-six children <i>were</i> withdrawn, +and instead of continuing to receive the elements of a +good education, they were entrusted to the care of an +old man quite incompetent for the office, but who was +of the right faith.</p> + +<p>I was enlisted as a collector for the school fund, and +went round soliciting subscriptions; but I found it +up-hill work. My district lay in the suburbs, and I +was by no means successful. A good many of those<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span> +I called upon were Ranters; and I suspect that the +last sensation preacher had carried off what otherwise +might have fallen to my share. I was tolerably successful +with the diggers working at their claims. At +least they always gave me a civil answer. One of +them said, "Well, if our washing turns out well on +Saturday, you shall have five shillings." And the +washing must have turned out well, for on Saturday +evening the digger honestly brought me the sum he +had named.</p> + +<p>Further to help the fund, a fête was held in the +open air, and an entertainment was given by amateurs +in the Prince of Wales's Theatre,—for our little town +also boasts of its theatre. The fête was held on Easter +Monday, which was kept as a holiday; and it commenced +with a grand procession of Odd Fellows, +Foresters, German Verein, Rechabites, and other +clubs, all in their Sunday clothes, and many of them +wearing very gorgeous scarfs. The German band +headed the procession, which proceeded towards the +paddock at MacCullum's Creek used on such festive +occasions. There all the contrivances usually adopted +for extracting money from the pockets of the visitors +were in full operation. There was a bazaar, in which +all manner of useless things were offered for sale; +together with raffles, bowls, croquet, dancing, shooting +at the eagle, tilting at the ring, and all sorts of +sports; a small sum being paid on entry. I took up +with a forlorn Aunt Sally, standing idle without customers, +and by dint of sedulous efforts, contrived to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span> +gather about a pound in an hour and a half. All +did their best. And thus a pleasant day was spent, +and a good round sum of money was collected for the +fund.</p> + +<p>The grand miscellaneous entertainment was also a +complete success. The theatre was filled with a highly-respectable +audience, including many gaily-dressed +ladies, and all the belles of Majorca and the neighbourhood. +Indeed I wondered where they could all +come from. The performances excited the greater +interest, as the whole of them were by amateurs, well +known in the place. The songs went off well; and +several of them were encored. After the concert, the +seats were cleared away, and the entertainment wound +up with the usual dance. And thus did we each +endeavour to do our share of pleasant labour for the +benefit of the common school.</p> + +<p>The reading-room of the Mechanics' Institute is +always a source of entertainment when nothing else +offers. The room is small but convenient, and it +contains a fair collection of books. The Telegraph +Office, the Post Office, Council Chamber, and Mechanics' +Institute, all occupy one building,—not a very +extensive one,—being only a one-storied wooden erection. +One of the chief attractions of the reading-room +is a collection of Colonial papers, with 'Punch,' +'The Illustrated News,' and the 'Irish Nation.' On +Saturday nights, when the diggers wash up and come +into town, the room is always well filled with readers. +The members of the Committee are also very active<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span> +in getting up entertainments and popular readings; +and, in short, the Mechanics' Institute may be regarded +as one of the most civilising institutions in the place.</p> + +<p>But my time in Majorca was drawing to an end. +One of the last public events in which I took part +was attending the funeral of our town clerk, the first +funeral I have ever had occasion to be present at. A +long procession followed his remains to the cemetery. +Almost all the men in the township attended, for the +deceased was highly respected. The service was very +solemn, held under the bright, clear, blue Australian +sky. Poor old man! I knew him well. I had seen +him so short a time ago in the hospital, where, three +hours before he died, he gave me his blessing. He was +then lying flushed, and in great pain. All that is over +now. "Dust to dust, and ashes to ashes." The earth +sounded as it fell upon his coffin; and now the good +man sleeps in peace, leaving a blessed memory behind +him.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>I was now under orders for home! My health was +completely re-established. I might have remained, +and perhaps succeeded in the colony. As it was, +I carried with me the best wishes of my employers. +But I had no desire to pursue the career of bank-clerk +further. I was learning but little, and had my +own proper business to pursue. So I made arrangements +for leaving Australia. Enough money had been +remitted me from England, to enable me to return +direct by first-class ship, leaving me free to choose<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span> +my own route. As I might never have another opportunity +of seeing that great new country the United +States of America, the question occurred, whether I +might not be able to proceed up the Pacific to San +Francisco, <i>viâ</i> Honolulu, and cross America by the +Atlantic and Pacific Railway. On inquiry, I found it +would be practicable, but not by first-class. So I resolved +to rough it a little, and proceed by that route +second class, for which purpose my funds would be +sufficient. I accordingly took my final leave of Majorca +early in December—just as summer was reaching its +height; and after spending three more pleasant weeks +with my hospitable and kind friends in Melbourne, +took my passage in the steamer for Sydney, and set +sail the day after Christmas.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>On looking over what I have above written about +my life in Victoria, I feel how utterly inadequate it is +to give the reader an idea of the country as a whole. +All that I have done has merely been to write down +my first impressions, unpremeditatedly and faithfully, +of what I saw, and what I felt and did while there. +Such a short residence in the colony, and such a limited +experience as mine was, could not have enabled me—no +matter what my faculty of observation, which is +but moderate—to convey any adequate idea of the +magnitude of the colony or its resources. To pretend +to write an account of Victoria and Victorian life from +the little I saw, were as absurd as it would be for a +native-born Victorian, sixteen years old, to come over<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span> +to England, live two years in a small country town, +and then write a book of his travels, headed "England." +And yet this is the way in which the Victorians complain, +and with justice, that they are treated by +English writers. Some eminent man arrives in the +colony, spends a few weeks in it, perhaps rushes through +it by railway, and hastens home to publish some contemptuous +account of the people whom he does not +really know, or some hasty if not fallacious description +of the country which he has not really seen. I am +sure that, however crude my description may be, +Victorians will not be offended with what I have said +of themselves and their noble colony; for, small +though the sphere of my observation was, they will +see that I have written merely to the extent of my +knowledge, and have related, as faithfully as I was +able, the circumstances that came within the range +of my own admittedly limited, but actual experience of +colonial life.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span></p> +<p class="figcenter" style="width: 437px;"> +<img src="images/image190.jpg" width="437" height="400" alt="Sydney, Port Jackson." title="Sydney, Port Jackson." /> +<span class="caption">Sydney, Port Jackson.</span> +</p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVIII" id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a>CHAPTER XVIII.</h2> + +<h3>ROUND TO SYDNEY.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Last Christmas in Australia</span>—<span class="smcap">Start by Steamer for Sydney</span>—<span class="smcap">The +'Great Britain'</span>—<span class="smcap">Cheap Trips to Queenscliffe</span>—<span class="smcap">Rough +Weather at Sea</span>—<span class="smcap">Mr. and Mrs. C. Mathews</span>—<span class="smcap">Botany +Bay</span>—<span class="smcap">Outer South Head</span>—<span class="smcap">Port Jackson</span>—<span class="smcap">Sydney Cove</span>—<span class="smcap">Description +of Sydney</span>—<span class="smcap">Government House and Domain</span>—<span class="smcap">Great +Future Empire of the South</span>.</p> + + +<p>I spent my last Australian Christmas with my kind +entertainers in Melbourne. Christmas scarcely looks +like Christmas with the thermometer at 90° in the +shade. But there is the same roast beef and plum-pudding +nevertheless, reminding one of home. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span> +immense garnishing of strawberries, however, now in +season—though extremely agreeable—reminds us that +Christmas at the Antipodes must necessarily differ in +many respects from Christmas in England.</p> + +<p>The morning after Christmas Day saw me on board +the steamer 'Raugatira,' advertised to start for Sydney +at eleven. Casting off from our moorings at the +Sandridge pier, the ship got gradually under weigh; +and, waving my last adieu to friends on shore, I was +again at sea.</p> + +<p>We steamed close alongside the 'Great Britain'—which +has for some time been the crack ship between +Australia and England. She had just arrived from +Liverpool with a great freight of goods and passengers, +and was lying at her moorings—a splendid ship. As +we steamed out into Hobson's Bay, Melbourne rose up +across the flats, and loomed large in the distance. All +the summits seemed covered with houses—the towers +of the fine Roman Catholic Cathedral, standing on the +top of a hill to the right, being the last building to be +seen distinctly from the bay.</p> + +<p>In about two hours we were at Queenscliffe, inside +the Heads—at present the fashionable watering place of +Melbourne. Several excursion steamers had preceded +us, taking down great numbers of passengers, to enjoy +Boxing Day by the sea-side. The place looked very +pretty indeed from our ship's deck. Some of the +passengers, who had taken places for Sydney, were +landed here, fearing lest the sea should be found too +rough outside the Heads.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span></p> + +<p>There had been very little wind when we left +Sandridge, and the waters of Port Phillip were comparatively +smooth. But as we proceeded, the wind +began to rise, and our weather-wise friends feared lest +they should have to encounter a gale outside. We +were now in sight of the white line of breakers running +across the Heads. There was still a short distance of +smooth water before us; but that was soon passed; and +then our ship dashed her prow into the waves and had +to fight her way as for very life against the heavy sea +that rolled in through Bass's Straits from the South +Pacific.</p> + +<p>The only distinguished passengers on board are +Mr. and Mrs. Charles Mathews, who have been +"starring" it in Victoria to some purpose. A few +nights ago, Mr. Mathews took his leave in a characteristic +speech, partly humorous and partly serious; but +the enthusiastic audience laughed and cheered him all +the way through; and it was rather comic to read the +newspaper report of next morning, and to find that the +actor's passages of the softest pathos had been received +with "roars of laughter."</p> + +<p>Mr. Mathews seems to be one of the most perennially +juvenile of men. When he came on board at Sandridge, +he looked as frisky and larky as a boy. He +skipped up and down the deck, and took an interest in +everything. This lasted so long as the water was +smooth. When he came in sight of the broken water +at the Heads, I fancy his spirit barometer went down a +little. But when the ship began to put her nose into<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span> +the waves freely, a total change seemed to pass over +him. I very soon saw his retreating skirts. For the +next three days—three long, rough, wave-tossing days—very +little was seen of him, and when he at length +did make his appearance on deck, alas! he seemed no +longer the brisk and juvenile passenger that had come +on board at Sandridge only a few days before.</p> + +<p>Indeed, it was a very rough and "dirty" passage. +The passengers were mostly prostrate during the whole +of the voyage. The sea was rolling in from the east in +great billows, which our little boat breasted gallantly; +but it was tossed about like a cork, inclining at all +sorts of angles by turns. It was not much that I could +see of the coast, though at some places it is bold, at +others beautiful. We passed very near to it at Ram +Head and Cape Howe—a grand promontory forming +the south-west point of Australia.</p> + +<p>On the third day from Melbourne, about daybreak, I +found we were steaming close along shore, under dark +brown cliffs, not very high, topped with verdure. The +wind had gone down, but the boat was pitching in the +heavy sea as much as ever. The waves were breaking +with fury and noise along the beach under the +cliffs. At 9 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we passed Botany Bay—the first part +of New South Wales sighted by Captain Cook just a +hundred years ago. It was here that he first landed, +and erected a mound of stones and a flag to commemorate +the event.<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> Banks and Solander, who were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span> +with him, found the land covered with new and beautiful +flowers, and hence the name which was given it, of +"Botany Bay"—afterwards a name of terror, associated +only with crime and convict life.</p> + +<p>We steamed across the entrance to the bay, until we +were close under the cliffs of the outer South Head, +guarding the entrance to Port Jackson. The white +Macquarie lighthouse on the summit of the Head +is seen plainly at a great distance. Steaming on, we +were soon under the inner South Head, and at the +entrance to the famous harbour, said to be the finest +in the world.</p> + +<p>The opening into Port Jackson is comparatively +narrow,—so much so, that when Captain Cook first +sailed past it, he considered it to be merely a boat +entrance, and did not examine it. While he was at +breakfast, the look-out man at the mast-head—a man +named Jackson—reported that he saw the entrance to +what seemed a good anchorage; and so the captain, +half in derision, named it "Port Jackson." The Heads +seemed to me only about four hundred feet apart from +each other, the North Head somewhat overlapping the +South. The rocks appear to have broken off abruptly, +and stand up perpendicularly over against each other, +about three hundred feet high, leaving a chasm or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span> +passage between them which forms the entrance to +Port Jackson. When the Pacific rolls in full force +against the Heads, the waves break with great violence +on the cliffs, and the spray is flung right over the lighthouse +on the South Head. Now that the sea has gone +somewhat down, the waves are not so furious, and yet +the dash of the spray half-way up the perpendicular +cliffs is a grand sight.</p> + +<p>Once inside the Heads, the water becomes almost +perfectly calm; the scenery suddenly changes; the +cliffs subside into a prettily-wooded country, undulating +and sloping gently to the water's edge. Immediately +within the entrance, on the south side, is a +pretty little village—the pilot station in Watson's Bay. +After a few minutes' more steaming, the ship rounds a +corner, the open sea is quite shut out from view, and +neither Heads nor pilot station are to be seen.</p> + +<p>My attention is next drawn to a charming view +on the north shore—a delicious little inlet, beautifully +wooded, and surrounded by a background of +hills, rising gradually to their highest height behind +the centre of the little bay. There, right in amongst +the bright green trees, I observe a gem of a house, with +a broad terrace in front, and steps leading down to the +clear blue water. A few minutes more, and we have +lost sight of the charming nook, having rounded the +headland of the inlet—a rocky promontory covered +with ferns and mosses.</p> + +<p>But our attention is soon absorbed by other beauties +of the scene. Before us lies a lovely island prettily<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span> +wooded, with some three or four fine mansions and +their green lawns sloping down to the water's edge; +while on the left, the hills are constantly varying in +aspect as we steam along. At length, some seven +miles up Port Jackson, the spires and towers and +buildings of Sydney come into sight; at first Wooloomooloo, +and then in ten minutes more, on rounding +another point, we find ourselves in Sydney Cove, +alongside the wharf. Here we are in the midst of an +amphitheatre of beauty,—a wooded island opposite +covered with villas and cottages; with headlands, coves +and bays, and beautiful undulations of lovely country +as far as the eye can reach. Altogether, I think Port +Jackson is one of the most charming pieces of water +and landscape that I have ever seen.</p> + +<p>After our three days tossing at sea, I was, however, +glad to be on shore again; so, having seen my boxes +safely deposited in the Californian baggage depôt, I +proceeded into the town and secured apartments for +the few days I was to remain in Sydney.</p> + +<p>From what I have already said of the approach to +the landing, it will be inferred that the natural situation +of Sydney is very fine. It stands upon a ridge of sandstone +rock, which runs down into the bay in numerous +ridges or spines of land or rock, between which lie the +natural harbours of the place; and these are so deep, +that vessels of almost any burden may load and unload +at the projecting wharves. Thus Sydney possesses a +very large extent of deep water frontage, and its wharfage +and warehouse accommodation is capable of enlargement<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span> +to almost any extent. Of the natural harbours +formed by the projecting spines of rock into the deep +water, the most important are Wooloomooloo Bay, +Farm Cove, Sydney Cove, and Darling Harbour.</p> + +<p>From the waterside, the houses, ranged in streets, +rise like so many terraces up to the crown of the +ridges,—the main streets occupying the crests and +flanks of two or three of the highest. One of these, +George Street, is a remarkably fine street, about two +miles long, containing many handsome buildings.</p> + +<p>My first knowledge of Sydney was acquired in a +stroll up George Street. We noticed the original old +market-place, bearing the date of 1793; a quaint +building, with queer old-fashioned domes, all shingle-roofed. +A little further on, we came to a large building +in course of erection—the new Town Hall, built +of a yellowish sort of stone. Near it is the English +Cathedral—a large and elegant structure. Further +on, is the new Roman Catholic Cathedral,—the original +cathedral in Hyde Park having been burnt down +some time ago.</p> + +<p>Altogether, Sydney has a much older look than +Melbourne. It has grown up at longer intervals, and +does not look so spic and span new. The streets are +much narrower and more irregular—older-fashioned, +and more English in appearance—occasioned, doubtless, +by its slower growth and its more hilly situation. +But it would also appear as if there were not the +same go-ahead spirit in Sydney that so pre-eminently +characterises her sister city. Instead of the splendidly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span> +broad, well-paved, and well-watered streets of Melbourne, +here they are narrow, ill-paved, and dirty. +Such a thing as the miserable wooden hut which serves +for a post-office would not be allowed to exist for a +day at Melbourne. It is the original office, and has +never been altered or improved since it was first put +up. I must, however, acknowledge that a new post-office +is in course of erection; but it shows the want +of public spirit in the place that the old shanty should +have been allowed to stand so long.</p> + +<p>The railway terminus, at the end of George Street, +is equally discreditable. It is, without exception, the +shabbiest, dirtiest shed of the kind I have ever seen. +They certainly need a little of the Victorian spirit in +Sydney. The Melbourne people, with such a site for a +city, would soon have made it one of the most beautiful +places in the world. As it is, nothing can surpass its +superb situation; the view over the harbour from some +of the higher streets being unequalled,—the numerous +ships lying still, as if asleep on the calm waters of the +bay beneath, whilst the rocky promontories all round +it, clothed with verdure, are dotted with the villas and +country mansions of the Sydney merchants.</p> + +<p>One of the busiest parts of Sydney is down by the +quays, where a great deal of shipping business is carried +on. There are dry docks, patent slips, and one floating +dock; though floating docks are of minor importance +here, where the depth of water along shore is so great, +and the rise and fall of the tide is so small. Indeed, +Sydney Harbour may be regarded as one immense<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span> +floating dock. The Australasian Steam Navigation +Company have large ship-building and repairing premises +at Pyrmont, which give employment to a large +number of hands. Certainly, the commanding position +of Sydney, and the fact of its being the chief port of a +great agricultural and pastoral country in the interior, +hold out the promise of great prosperity for it in the +future.</p> + +<p>Every visitor to Sydney of course makes a point of +seeing the Government House and the Domain, for it +is one of the principal sights of the place. The +Government buildings and park occupy the double-headed +promontory situated between Wooloomooloo +Bay and Sydney Cove. The Government House is a +handsome and spacious castellated building, in every +way worthy of the colony; the views from some parts +of the grounds being of almost unparalleled beauty. +There are nearly four miles of drives in the park, +through alternate cleared and wooded grounds,—sometimes +opening upon cheerful views of the splendid +harbour, then skirting the rocky shores, or retreating +inland amidst shadowy groves and grassy dells. The +grounds are open to the public, and the entrances +being close upon the town and suburbs, this public +park of Sydney is one that for convenience and beauty, +perhaps no capital in the world surpasses.</p> + +<p>The Botanical Gardens are situated in what is called +the outer Domain. We enter the grounds under a +long avenue of acacias and sycamores, growing so close +together as to afford a complete shade from the noonday<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span> +heat. At the end of the avenue, we came upon a +splendid specimen of the Norfolk Island pine, said to +be the largest and finest tree out of the island itself. +After resting for a time under its delicious shade, we +strolled on through other paths overhung with all sorts +of flowering plants; then, passing through an opening +in the wall, a glorious prospect of the bay suddenly +spread out before us. The turf was green down to the +water's edge, and interspersed with nicely-kept flower +beds, with here and there a pretty clump of trees.</p> + +<p>Down by the water side is a broad esplanade—the +most charming of promenades—running all round the +beautiful little bay which it encloses. Tropical and +European shrubs grow in profusion on all sides; an +English rose-tree in full bloom growing alongside a +bamboo; while, at another place, a banana throws its +shadow over a blooming bunch of sweet pea, and a bell-flowered +plant overhangs a Michaelmas daisy. A fine +view of the harbour and shipping is obtained from a +part of the grounds where Lady Macquarie's chair—a +hollow place in a rock—is situated;—itself worth +coming a long way to see. Turning up the gardens +again, we come upon a monkey-house, an aviary, and—what +interested me more than all—an enclosed lawn in +which were numerous specimens of the kangaroo tribe, +from the "Old Boomer" standing six feet high, down to +the Rock kangaroo not much bigger than a hare. We +hung about, watching the antics of the monkeys and +the leapings of the kangaroos until it was time to take +our departure.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span></p> + +<p>The country inland, lying to the south of Sydney, is +by no means picturesque. Much of it consists of sandy +scrub, and it is by no means fertile, except in the +valleys. But nothing can surpass the beauty of the +shores of the bay as far up as Paramatta, about twenty +miles inland. The richest land of the colony lies well +into the interior, but the time at my disposal was too +short to enable me to do more than visit the capital, +with which the passing stranger cannot fail to be +greatly pleased.</p> + +<p>Altogether, it seems a wonderful thing that so much +should have been done within so short a time towards +opening up the resources of this great country. And +most wonderful of all, that the people of a small island +like Britain, situated at the very opposite side of the +globe, some sixteen thousand miles off, should have +come hither, and within so short a time have built up +such cities as Sydney and Melbourne,—planted so large +an extent of territory with towns, and villages, and farmsteads—covered +its pastures with cattle and sheep—opened +up its mines—provided it with roads, railroads, +and telegraphs, and thereby laid the firm foundations of +a great future empire in the south. Surely these are +things of which England, amidst all her grumblings, +has some reason to be proud!</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> The Honourable Thomas Holt, +on whose property the landing-place +is situated, last year erected +an obelisk on the spot, with the +inscription "Captain Cook landed +here 28th April, <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1770," with +the following extract from Captain +Cook's Journal: "At day-break +we discovered a bay, and anchored +under the south shore, about two +miles within the entrance, in six +fathom water, the south point +bearing <span class="smcap">s.e.</span>, and the north point +east. Latitude 43° <span class="smcap">s.</span>, Longitude +208° 37' <span class="smcap">w.</span>"</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span></p> +<p class="figcenter" style="width: 493px;"> +<img src="images/image202.jpg" width="493" height="400" alt="Auckland, New Zealand." title="Auckland, New Zealand." /> +<span class="caption">Auckland, New Zealand.</span> +</p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIX" id="CHAPTER_XIX"></a>CHAPTER XIX.</h2> + +<h3>TO AUCKLAND, IN NEW ZEALAND.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Leaving Sydney</span>—<span class="smcap">Anchor within the Heads</span>—<span class="smcap">Take in Mails +and Passengers from the 'City of Adelaide'</span>—<span class="smcap">Out to Sea +Again</span>—<span class="smcap">Sight New Zealand</span>—<span class="smcap">Entrance to Auckland Harbour</span>—<span class="smcap">The +'Galatea'</span>—<span class="smcap">Description of Auckland</span>—<span class="smcap">Founding +of Auckland due to a Job</span>—<span class="smcap">Maori Men and Women</span>—<span class="smcap">Drive +to Onehunga</span>—<span class="smcap">Splendid View</span>—<span class="smcap">Auckland Gala</span>—<span class="smcap">New Zealand +Delays</span>—<span class="smcap">Leave for Honolulu</span>.</p> + + +<p>On the last day of December, 1870, I set out for +Honolulu, in the Sandwich Islands, embarking as second-class +passenger on board the 'City of Melbourne.' Our +first destination was Auckland, in New Zealand, where we +were to stop for a few days to take in passengers and mails.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span></p> + +<p>I had been so fortunate as accidentally to encounter +a friend, whom I knew in Maryborough, in the streets +of Sydney. He was out upon his summer holiday, and +when he understood that I was bound for New Zealand, +he determined to accompany me, and I had, therefore, +the pleasure of his society during the earlier part of my +voyage.</p> + +<p>As we steamed down the harbour I had another +opportunity of admiring the beautiful little bays, and +sandy coves, and wooded islets of Port Jackson. The +city, with its shipping, and towers, and spires, gradually +receded in the distance, and as we rounded a headland +Sydney was finally shut out from further view.</p> + +<p>We were soon close to the abrupt headlands which +guard the entrance to the bay, and letting drop our +anchor just inside the southern head, we lay safely +sheltered from the gale which began to blow from +the east. There we waited the arrival of the 'City of +Adelaide' round from Melbourne, with the last mails +and passengers for England by the California route.</p> + +<p>But it was some time before the 'Adelaide' made +her appearance. Early next morning, hearing that +she was alongside, I hurried on deck. The mails +were speedily brought off from the inward-bound ship, +together with seven more passengers. Our anchor was +at once weighed, and in ten more minutes we are off. +We are soon at the entrance to the Heads; and I see +by the scud of the clouds, and the long line of foaming +breakers driving across the entrance, that before long +we shall have the spray flying over our hurricane deck.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span> +Another minute and we are outside, plunging into the +waves and throwing the water in foam from our bows.</p> + +<p>I remain upon deck, holding on as long as I can. +Turning back, I see a fine little schooner coming out of +the Heads behind us, under a good press of sail. On +she came, dipping her bows right under the water, but +buoyant as a cork. Her men were aloft reefing a sail, +her yards seeming almost to touch the water as she +leaned over to leeward. Passing under our stern, she +changed her course, and the plucky little schooner held +up along the coast, making for one of the northern +ports.</p> + +<p>Taking a last look at the Sydney Heads, I left the +further navigation of the ship in the hands of the +captain, and retired below. I was too much occupied +by private affairs to see much more of the sea during +the next twenty-four hours. New Year's Day though +it was, there was very little jollity on board; indeed, +as regarded the greater number of the passengers, it +was spent rather sadly.</p> + +<p>The weather, however, gradually moderated, until, on +the third day of our voyage, it became fine, such wind +as there was being well aft. On the fifth day, the wind +had gone quite down, and there only remained the long +low roll of the Pacific; but the ship rolled so heavily +that I suspect there must have been a very strong +under-current somewhere about. Early in the forenoon +we sighted the "Three Kings' Island," off the +extreme north coast of New Zealand. At first they +seemed to consist of three detached rocks; but as we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span> +neared them, they were seen to be a number of small +rocky islands, with very little vegetation on them. +The mainland shortly came in sight, though it was still +too distant to enable us to recognise its features.</p> + +<p>Early next morning, we found ourselves steaming +close in shore past Cape Brett, near the entrance to the +Bay of Islands. The high cliffs along the coast are bold +and grand; here and there a waterfall is seen, and +occasionally an opening valley, showing the green +woods beyond. In the distance are numerous conical +hills, showing the originally volcanic character of the +country. During the forenoon we passed a huge rock +that in the distance had the appearance of being a +large ship in full sail; hence its name of the "Sail +Rock."</p> + +<p>The entrance to the harbour of Auckland, though by +no means equal to Port Jackson, is yet highly picturesque. +On one side is the city of Auckland, lying +in a hollow, and extending up the steep hills on either +side; while opposite to it, on the north shore of the +Frith of Thames, is a large round hill, used as a pilot +signal station. Situated underneath it are many nice +little villas, with gardens close to the sea. The view +extends up the inlets, which widens out and terminates +in a background of high blue mountains. From Auckland, +as from Sydney, the open sea is not to be seen—there +are so many windings in and out before the +harbour is reached.</p> + +<p>A fine Queen's ship was lying at anchor in the bay, +which, on inquiry, we found to be the 'Galatea,' commanded<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span> +by the Duke of Edinburgh. The 'Clio' also +was anchored not far off. We were soon alongside the +long wooden pier, to which were also moored several fine +clipper ships, and made our way into the town. As +the principal street continued straight in from the pier, +we were shortly enabled to see all the principal buildings +of the place.</p> + +<p>Though a small shipping town, there seems to be a +considerable amount of business doing at Auckland. +There is a good market-place, some creditable bank +buildings, and some three or four fine shops, but the +streets are dirty and ill-paved. The Supreme Court and +the Post Office—both fine buildings—lie off the principal +street. The Governor's house, which occupies a +hill to the right, commands a fine view of the bay, as +well as of the lovely green valley behind it.</p> + +<p>Auckland, like Sydney, being for the most part built +upon high land, is divided by ravines, which open out +towards the sea in little coves or bays—such as Mechanics' +Bay, Commercial Bay, and Official Bay. The +buildings in Mechanics' Bay, as the name imports, are +principally devoted to ship-building, boat-building, and +rope-making. The shore of Commercial Bay is occupied +by the store and shop-keeping people, while Official +Bay is surrounded by the principal official buildings, +the Government storehouses, and such like.</p> + +<p>I have been told here that Auckland is completely +out of place as the capital of the colony, being situated +at the narrowest part of the island, far away from the +principal seats of population, which are in Cook's Straits<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span> +and even further south. The story is current that Auckland +is due to an early job of Government officials, who +combined to buy up the land about it and when it had +been fixed upon as the site of the capital, sold out their +lots at fabulous prices, to the feathering of their own +nests.</p> + +<p>A great many natives, or Maoris, are hanging about +the town. It seems that they are here in greater +numbers than usual, their votes being wanted for the +passing or confirmation of some land measure. Groups +of them stand about the streets talking and gesticulating; +a still greater number are hanging round the +public-houses, which they enter from time to time to +have a drink. I cannot say I like the look of the +men; they look very ugly customers indeed—beetle-browed +and down-looking, "with foreheads villanous +low." Their appearance is all the more revolting by +reason of the large blue circles of tattoo on their faces. +Indeed, when the New Zealander is fully tattooed, +which is the case with the old aristocrats, there is very +little of his original face visible, excepting perhaps his +nose and his bright black eyes.</p> + +<p>Most of the men were dressed in the European costume, +though some few were in their native blankets, +which they wear with grace and even dignity. The +men were of fine physique—tall, strong, and well-made—and, +looking at their keen fierce eyes, I do not wonder +that they have given our soldiers so much trouble. +I could not help thinking, as I saw them hanging about +the drinking-shops, some half drunk, that English drink<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span> +will in the long run prove their conquerors far more +than English rifles.</p> + +<p>There were many Maori women mingled with the +men. Some of them were good looking. Their skin +is of a clear dark olive; their eyes dark brown or +black; their noses small and their mouths large. But +nearly all of them have a horrid blue tattoo mark on +their lips, that serves to give them—at least to European +eyes—a repulsive look.</p> + +<p>Many of the women, as well as the men, wear a +piece of native greenstone hanging from their ears, to +which is attached a long piece of black ribbon. This +stone is supposed by the Maoris to possess some magical +virtue. Others of them—men, as well as girls—have +sharks' teeth hanging from their ears and dangling +about their faces,—the upper part of the teeth being +covered with bright red wax.</p> + +<p>Mixed with the Maoris were the sailors of the +'Galatea,' rolling about the streets, and, like them, +frequent customers of the public-houses. In fact, the +sailors and the Maoris seemed to form a considerable +proportion of the population of the place.</p> + +<p>The landlord of the hotel at which we stayed—the +'Waitemata'—having recommended us to take a drive +into the interior, we set out at midday by stage coach +for Onehunga. Auckland being situated at the narrowest +part of the North Island, Onehunga, which is +on the west coast, is only seven miles distant by land, +though five hundred by water.</p> + +<p>The coach started at noon, and it was hard work for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span> +the four horses to drag the vehicle up the long steep +hill at the back of the town. Nice country-houses +stood on both sides of the road, amidst fresh green +gardens; the houses almost buried in foliage.</p> + +<p>From the high road a magnificent landscape +stretched before us. It reminded me very much of +a particular view of the Lake of Geneva, though this +was even more grand and extensive. The open sea +was at such a distance, and so shut out by intervening +high land, that it was scarcely visible. The lovely +frith or bay, with its numerous inlets, islands, and +surrounding bright green hills, lay at our feet. The +blue water wound in and out amongst the hills on our +right for a distance of about fifteen miles. There was a +large open stretch of water, surrounded by high mountains, +towards the west. Right before us was the entrance +to the bay, with the pilot-station hill on one side +and Mount Victoria on the other. Between these two +hills, high land stood up in the distance, so that the +whole gave one the impression of a beautiful inland +lake rather than of a sea view. It was, without exception, +the most magnificent prospect I had ever looked +upon. Yet they tell me this is surpassed by the scenery +in other parts of New Zealand; in which case it must +indeed be an exceedingly picturesque country.</p> + +<p>We drove along through a pretty green country, with +fine views of the plains toward the right, bounded by +distant blue mountains. In about another quarter of +an hour, after passing through the village of Epsom, +we came in sight of the sea on the west coast, and were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span> +shortly set down at Onehunga, on the shore of Manukau +Bay. Onehunga is a small township, containing a few +storehouses, besides dwelling-houses, with an hotel or +two. The view here was also fine, but not so interesting +as that on the eastern side of the island. Plains, +bounded by distant mountains, extended along the +coast on one side, and high broken cliffs ran along +the shore and bounded the sea in front of us. After +an hour's rest, at Onehunga, we returned to Auckland, +enjoying the drive back very much, in spite of the +inconveniently-crowded coach.</p> + +<p>There was a sort of gala in Auckland that evening. +A promenade concert was given on the parade-ground +at the barracks, at which the band of the 'Galatea' +played to the company. The Prince himself, it was +announced, would perform on the occasion. It was a +fine moonlight night, and the inhabitants of Auckland +turned out in force. There must have been at least +two thousand well-dressed people promenading about, +listening to the music. The Prince's elephant was there +too, and afforded a good deal of amusement. How the +poor brute was slung out of the 'Galatea,' got on shore, +and got back on ship-board again, was to me a mystery.</p> + +<p>I went down to the steamer at the appointed time of +sailing, but found that the 'City' was not to leave for +several hours after time. The mail express was to wait +until Mr. and Mrs. Bandman—who had been acting in +Auckland—had received some presentation from the +officers of the 'Galatea'! It seemed odd that a mail +steamer should be delayed some hours to suit the convenience<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span> +of a party of actors. But there are strange +doings connected with this mail line. Time is of little +moment here; and, in New Zealand, I suspect time is +even less valued than usual. They tell me that few +mails leave New Zealand without having to wait, on +some pretext or another. There does not seem to +be the same activity, energy, and business aptitude +that exists in the Australian colonies. The Auckland +people seem languid and half asleep. Perhaps their +soft, relaxing, winterless climate has something to do +with it.</p> + +<p>Having nothing else to occupy me before the ship +sailed, I took leave of my Australian friend, gave him +my last messages for Maryborough and Majorca, and +went on board. I was wakened up about midnight +by the noise of the anchor coming up; and, in a few +minutes more, we were off and on our way to Honolulu +up the Pacific.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XX" id="CHAPTER_XX"></a>CHAPTER XX.</h2> + +<h3>UP THE PACIFIC.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Departure for Honolulu</span>—<span class="smcap">Monotony of a Voyage by Steam</span>—<span class="smcap">Désagrémens</span>—<span class="smcap">The +"Gentlemen" Passengers</span>—<span class="smcap">The One +Second Class "Lady"</span>—<span class="smcap">The Rats on Board</span>—<span class="smcap">The Smells</span>—<span class="smcap">Flying +Fish</span>—<span class="smcap">Cross the Line</span>—<span class="smcap">Treatment of Newspapers +on Board</span>—<span class="smcap">Hawaii in Sight</span>—<span class="smcap">Arrival at Honolulu</span>.</p> + + +<p>When I went on deck next morning, we had left New +Zealand far behind us; not a speck of land was to be +seen, and we were fairly on our way to Honolulu. We +have before us a clear run of about four thousand miles, +and if our machinery and coal keep good, we know that +we shall do it easily in about seventeen days.</p> + +<p>Strange though it may seem, there is much greater +monotony in a voyage on board a steamer than there is +on board a sailing vessel. There is nothing like the +same interest felt in the progress of the ship, and thus +one unfailing topic of conversation and speculation is +shut out. There are no baffling winds, no sleeping +calms, alternating with a joyous and invigorating run +before the wind, such as we had when coming out, from +Plymouth to the Cape. We only know that we shall +do our average ten miles an hour, be the weather what +it may. If the wind is blowing astern, we run before<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span> +it; if ahead, we run through it. Fair or foul it matters +but little.</p> + +<p class="figcenter" style="width: 592px;"> +<img src="images/image213.png" width="592" height="600" alt="(Maps of the Ship's Course up the Pacific, Auckland, +and Sydney, Port Jackson)" title="Auckland, New Zealand." /> +</p> + +<p>A voyage by a steamer, compared with one by sailing +ship, is what a journey by railway train is to a drive +across country in a well-horsed stage coach. There is, +however, this to be said in favour of the former,—we +know that, monotonous though it be, it is very much +sooner over; and on a voyage of some thousands of +miles, we can calculate to a day, and almost to an hour, +when we shall arrive at our destination.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span></p> + +<p>But, to be set against the shorter time consumed on +the voyage, there are numerous little <i>désagrémens</i>. +There is the dismal, never-ending grind, grind of the +screw, sometimes, when the ship rolls, and the screw +is out of the water, going round with a horrible <i>birr</i>. +At such times, the vessel has a double motion, pitching +and rolling, and thereby occasioning an inexpressibly +sickly feeling. Then, when the weather is hot, there +is the steam of heated oil wafted up from the engine-room, +which, mingled with the smell of bilge, and +perhaps cooking, is anything but agreeable or appetizing. +I must also acknowledge that a second-class +berth, which I had taken, is not comparable in point of +comfort to a first; not only as regards the company, +but as regards smells, food, and other surroundings.</p> + +<p>There are not many passengers at my end, and the +few there are do not make themselves very agreeable. +First, there are two German Jews, grumbling and +growling at everything. They are a couple of the +most cantankerous fellows I ever came across; never +done knagging, swearing, grunting, and bellowing. +They keep the steward, who is an obliging sort of +fellow, in a state of constant "wax;" which, when I +want anything done for me, I have to remedy by +tipping. So that they are likely to prove somewhat +costly companions, though in a peculiar way.</p> + +<p>Next, there is a German Yankee, a queer old fellow, +who came on board at Auckland. He seems to have +made some money at one of the New Zealand gold +fields called "The Serpentine," somewhere near<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span> +Dunedin. This old fellow and I cotton together very +well. He is worth a dozen of the other two Germans. +He had been all through the American war under +Grant, and spins some long yarns about the Northerners +and the "cussed rebs."</p> + +<p>As there are twenty-seven bunks in our cabin, and +only four passengers, there is of course plenty of room +and to spare. But there is also a "lady" passenger at +our end of the ship, and she has all the fifteen sleeping-places +in her cabin to herself. It might be supposed +that, there being only one lady, she would be in considerable +demand with her fellow-passengers. But it +was quite the contrary. Miss Ribbids, as I will call +her, proved to be a most uninteresting individual. I am +sorry to have to confess to so much ungallantry; but +the only effort which I made, in common with the +others, was to avoid her—she was so hopelessly dense. +One night she asked me, quite seriously, "If that was +the same moon they had at Sydney?"! I am sure she +does not know that the earth is round. By stretching +a hair across the telescope glass, I made her look in +and showed her the Line, but she did not see the joke. +She gravely asked if we should not land at the Line: +she understood there was land there! Her only humour +is displayed at table, when anything is spilt by the rolling +of the ship, when she exclaims, "Over goes the apple-cart!" +But enough of the awful Miss Ribbids.</p> + +<p>There are, however, other passengers aboard that +must not be forgotten—the rats! I used to have a +horror of rats, but here I soon became used to them.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span> +The first night I slept on board I smelt something very +disgusting as I got into my bunk; and at last I discovered +that it arose from a dead rat in the wainscot of +the ship. My nose being somewhat fastidious as yet, I +moved to the other side of the cabin. But four kegs of +strong-smelling butter sent me quickly out of that. I +then tried a bunk next to the German Jews, but I found +proximity to them was the least endurable of all; and +so, after many changes, I at last came back and slept +contentedly beside my unseen and most unsavoury companion, +the dead rat.</p> + +<p>But there are plenty of living and very lively rats +too. One night a big fellow ran over my face, and in a +fright I cried out. But use is everything, and in the +course of a few more nights I got quite rid of my +childish astonishment and fear at rats running over my +face. Have you ever heard rats sing? I assure you +they sing in a very lively chorus; though I confess I +have heard much pleasanter music in my time.</p> + +<p>Amidst all these little troubles, the ship went steadily +on. During the second night, after leaving Auckland, +the wind began to blow pretty fresh, and the hatch was +closed. It felt very close and stuffy below, that night. +The light went out, and the rats had it all their own +way. On the following day, it was impossible to go on +deck without getting wet through, so we were forced to +stick down below. The rolling of the ship was also +considerable.</p> + +<p>Next day was fine, but hot. The temperature +sensibly and even rapidly increases as we approach the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span> +Line. We see no land, though we have passed through +amongst the Friendly Islands, with the Samoa or +Navigator's Islands lying to the west. It is now a +clear course to Honolulu. Not being able to go on +deck in the heat of the day, at risk of sun-stroke, I +wait until the sun has gone down, and then slip on +deck with my rug and pillow, and enjoy a siesta under +the stars. But sometimes I am disturbed by a squall, +and have to take refuge below again.</p> + +<p>As the heat increases, so do the smells on board. In +passing from the deck to our cabin, I pass through +seven distinct perfumes:—1st, the smell from the +galley smoke; 2nd, the perfume of decaying vegetables +stored on the upper deck; 3rd, fowls; 4th, dried +fish; 5th, oil and steam from the engine-room; 6th, +meat undergoing the process of cooking; 7th, the galley +by which I pass; until I finally enter No. 8, our own +sweet cabin, with the butter, the rats, and the German +Jews.</p> + +<p>We are again in the midst of the flying fish; but +they interest me nothing like so vividly as they did +when I first saw them in the Atlantic. Some of them +take very long flights, as much as thirty or forty yards. +Whole shoals of them fly away from the bows of the +ship as she presses through the water.</p> + +<p>On the 19th of January we crossed the Line, in longitude +about 160°. We continue on a straight course, +making an average of about 240 miles a day. It +already begins to get cooler, as we are past the sun's +greatest heat. It is a very idle, listless life; and I lie<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span> +about on the hen-coops all day, reading, or sitting +down now and then to write up this log, which has +been written throughout amidst discomfort and under +considerable difficulties.</p> + +<p>One of my fellow-passengers is enraged at the manner +in which newspapers are treated while in transit. If +what he says be true, I can easily understand how it is +that so many newspapers miscarry—how so many +numbers of 'Punch' and the 'Illustrated News' never +reach their destination. My informant says that when +an officer wants a newspaper, the mail-bag is opened, +and he takes what he likes. He might just as well be +permitted to have letters containing money. Many +a poor colonial who cannot write a letter, buys and +despatches a newspaper to his friends at home, to let +them know he is alive; and this is the careless and +unfaithful way in which the missive is treated by +those to whom its carriage is entrusted. I heard +many complaints while in Victoria, of newspapers containing +matter of interest never reaching their address; +from which I infer that the same practice more or +less prevails on the Atlantic route. It is really too bad.</p> + +<p>As we steam north, the weather grows fine, and we +begin to have some splendid days and glorious sunsets. +But we are all longing eagerly to arrive at our destination. +At length, on the morning of the 24th of +January, we discerned the high land of the island +of Hawaii, about seventy miles off, on our beam. That +is the island where Captain Cook was murdered by the +natives, in 1779. We saw distinctly the high conical<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span> +volcanic mountain of Mauna Loa, 14,000 feet high, its +peak showing clear above the grey clouds.</p> + +<p>We steamed on all day, peering ahead, looking out +for the land. Night fell, and still our port was not in +sight. At length, at about ten, the lighthouse on the +reef which stretches out in front of Honolulu, shone +out in the darkness. Then began a little display of +fireworks, and rockets and blue lights were exchanged +between our ship and the shore. A rocket also shot up +from a steamer to seaward, and she was made out to +be the 'Moses Taylor,' the ship that is to take us on +to San Francisco.</p> + +<p>At about one in the morning, we take our pilot on +board, and shortly after, my German friends rouse me +with the intelligence that we are alongside the wharf. +I am now, however, getting an "old bird;" my enthusiasm +about novelty has gone down considerably; and +I decline the pleasure of accompanying them on shore +at this early hour. Honolulu will doubtless wait for +me until morning.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span></p> +<p class="figcenter" style="width: 489px;"> +<img src="images/image220.jpg" width="489" height="400" alt="Honolulu, Sandwich Islands." title="Honolulu, Sandwich Islands." /> +<span class="caption">Honolulu, Sandwich Islands.</span> +</p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXI" id="CHAPTER_XXI"></a>CHAPTER XXI.</h2> + +<h3>HONOLULU AND THE ISLAND OF OAHU.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">The Harbour of Honolulu</span>—<span class="smcap">Importance of its Situation</span>—<span class="smcap">The +City</span>—<span class="smcap">Churches and Theatres</span>—<span class="smcap">The Post Office</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Suburbs</span>—<span class="smcap">The King's Palace</span>—<span class="smcap">The Nuuanu Valley</span>—<span class="smcap">Poi</span>—<span class="smcap">People +coming down the Valley</span>—<span class="smcap">The Pali</span>—<span class="smcap">Prospect +from the Cliffs</span>—<span class="smcap">The Natives (Kanakas)</span>—<span class="smcap">Divers</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Women</span>—<span class="smcap">Drink Prohibition</span>—<span class="smcap">The Chinese</span>—<span class="smcap">Theatricals</span>—<span class="smcap">Musquitoes</span>.</p> + + +<p>When I came on deck in the early morning, the sun +was rising behind the mountains which form the background +of Honolulu as seen from the harbour, tipping +them with gold and red, and bathing the landscape in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span> +beauty. I could now survey at leisure the lovely +scene.</p> + +<p>I found we had entered a noble harbour, round which +the town of Honolulu is built, with its quays, warehouses +and shipyards. Looking seaward, I observe the +outer bay is nearly closed in at its lower extremity by +the long ridge-like hill, called Diamond Head. Nearer +at hand, behind the town, is a remarkable eminence +called Punchbowl Hill, evidently of volcanic origin, +crowned with a battery, and guarding the entrance to +the smaller bay which forms the harbour.</p> + +<p>The entrance to the harbour is through a passage in +one of the coral reefs which surround the island, the +coral insects building upwards from the submerged +flanks of the land, until the reefs emerge from the +waves, more or less distant from the shore. As the +water at the shallowest part of the entrance is only +about twenty-two feet, vessels of twenty-feet draught +and over have to remain outside, where, however, there +is good anchorage and shelter, unless when the wind +blows strong from the south. The water inside the +reefs is usually smooth, though the waves outside may +be dashing themselves to foam on their crests.</p> + +<p>A glance at the situation of the Sandwich Islands on +the map will serve to show the important part they are +destined to play in the future commerce of the Pacific. +They lie almost directly in the course of all ships +passing from San Francisco and Vancouver to China +and Japan, as well as to New Zealand and Australia. +They are almost equidistant from the coasts of Russia<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span> +and America, being rather nearer to the American +coast, from which they are distant about 2100 miles. +They form, as it were, a stepping-stone on the great +ocean highway of the Pacific between the East and the +West—between +the old world +and the new—as +well as between +the newest and +most prosperous +settlements in +the Western States of America and Australia. And it +is because Honolulu—the principal town in the island +of Oahu, and the capital of the Sandwich Islands—possesses +by far the best, most accessible, and convenient +harbour, that it is a place likely to become of so much +importance in the future. It has not been unusual to +see as many as from a hundred to a hundred and fifty +sail riding securely at anchor there.</p> + +<p class="figcenter" style="width: 549px;"><a name="Map_of_Oahu" id="Map_of_Oahu"></a> +<img src="images/image222.jpg" width="549" height="300" alt="(Map of Oahu, Sandwich Islands)" title="(Map of Oahu, Sandwich Islands)" /> +</p> + +<p>As seen from the harbour, Honolulu is an extremely +pretty place. It lies embowered in fresh green foliage, +the roofs of the houses peeping up here and there from +amongst the trees, while the waving fronds of the +cocoa-nut palms rise in some places majestically above +them, contrasting strangely with the volcanic crags +and peaks which form the distant background. In the +older part of the town, to the right, the houses are more +scattered about; and from the first appearance of the +place, one would scarcely suppose that it contained so +large a population as twelve thousand, though many of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span> +the houses are doubtless hidden by the foliage and the +undulations of the ground on which the place is built.</p> + +<p>Behind the town, a plain of about two miles in width +extends to the base of the mountain range which forms +its background. The extraordinary shapes of the +mountains—their rugged ravines and precipitous peaks—unmistakably +denote the volcanic agencies that have +been at work in forming the islands, and giving to the +scenery its most marked features. Just at the back of +the town, a deep valley, or rather gorge, runs through a +break in the hills, the sides of which are covered with +bright green foliage. The country, which rises gradually +up to this break in the mountains, is exceedingly +picturesque. Altogether, the first sight of the place +came fully up to my anticipations of the beauty of a +tropical town in the Pacific.</p> + +<p>I proceeded to take my first walk through Honolulu +at half-past five in the morning. It was the 25th of +January—the dead of winter; but there is no winter +in Honolulu. It is as warm as August is in England; +and the warmth of the place all the year through is +testified by the fact that there is not a dwelling-house +chimney in the town. I walked along the shady +streets up to the market-place, and there I found a +number of the natives squatted on their haunches, +selling plantains, oranges, bananas, fruits, and vegetables. +I invested sixpence in an enormous bunch of +bananas, which I carried back with me to the ship for +the use of our party, very much to their enjoyment, +for the fruit was in perfection.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span></p> + +<p>In the course of the forenoon I proceeded to explore +Honolulu at greater leisure. I found the central +portion of the town consisted of regularly laid out +streets, many of the houses enclosed within gardens. +The trees standing here and there amongst the shops +and warehouses give them a fresh and primitive look. +I pass several places of worship in going to the Post +Office,—the English Cathedral, chapels of American +Congregationalists, Wesleyan Methodists, and Roman +Catholics. There is also the Royal Hawaiian Theatre, +and an Equestrian Circus, as well as a Police Office. +Police? "Yes; bless you, sir, we are civilised!"</p> + +<p>I could see the Post Office a long way off before +I reached it, standing in a small square at the head of +one of the principal streets. It was easily known by +the crowd of people, both natives and foreigners, on +the steps. For the mail had just come in by the +'Moses Taylor,' and everybody was anxious to know +what had been the upshot of the European war and +the siege of Paris. That war even threatens to disturb +the peace of Honolulu itself; for there is now a French +man-of-war at anchor in the harbour, the 'Hamelin,' +watching a fine German merchant ship, the 'Count +Bismarck,' that arrived a few days before the Frenchman. +The Germans have taken the precaution to paint +"Honolulu" on the stern of their vessel, and to place +themselves under the protection of the Hawaiian +Government. So the commander of the French ship, +finding he can make no capture here, has weighed +anchor and steamed out of port, doubtless to lie in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span> +wait for the German vessel outside should she venture +to put to sea.</p> + +<p>I found the Post Office a sort of joint post-office and +stationer's shop, the principal business consisting in the +sale of newspapers. I was amazed to find that though +a steamer runs regularly from Honolulu to Australia +there is no postal communication with Victoria, except +<i>viâ</i> America and England! This is on account of the +Victorian Government refusing to subsidize the new +Californian and Australian mail line. Should such a +line become established and prosper, the Victorians +fear that an advantage would be given to Sydney, and +that Melbourne, instead of being on the main line of +mail communication, as it now is, would be shunted on +to a branch. But surely there is room enough for +a mail line by both the Atlantic and Pacific routes, +without occasion for jealousy either on the part of +Sydney or Melbourne.</p> + +<p>After settling my business at the Post Office, accompanied +by my German-Yankee fellow-passenger, I took +a stroll round the town and suburbs; though it is so +open and green that it seems <i>all</i> suburbs. We invested +a small sum in oranges, which we found in perfection, +and sucked them as we went along in the most undignified +way possible. We directed our steps to that +part of the town where the better class seemed to reside, +in cool, shady lanes, the houses embowered in large-leaved +tropical trees, cocoa-nut, banana, bread-fruit, +calabash, and other palms, with cycas and tree-ferns +with stems some fifteen feet high. Flower-bearing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span> +shrubs also abounded, such as the Hibiscus, Mairi, of +which the women make wreaths, and Gardenia, with +the flowers of which they also adorn themselves. In +some of the gardens water was laid on, and pretty fountains +were playing, from which it would appear that +the water supply is good, and that there is a good head +of it in some mountain reservoir above.</p> + +<p>We strolled along to the right of the town, towards +the high volcanic mountain on which the fort is situated, +the long extinct crater showing plainly on its summit. +Some years since, when a French ship bombarded the +town, the Kanakas who manned the fort, threw down +their sponges, rammers, and all, directly the first shot +was fired, leaving the fort to take care of itself.</p> + +<p>We returned to the harbour by way of the King's +palace, which is in the centre of the town, and may be +known by the royal flag floating over it. The palace +is built of coral stone, and is an unpretending building, +reminding one of a French <i>maison de campagne</i>. It +stands in about an acre of ground, ornamented with +flowers, shrubs, and an avenue of kukui and koa-trees. +A native sentry stood at the gate in his uniform of +blue coat and white trousers, and with his musket +duly shouldered in regulation style.</p> + +<p>On the following day I made an excursion with an +American gentleman, who is something of a naturalist, +to the remarkable valley, or gorge, in the mountains at +the back of the town, which had so attracted my notice +when I first saw it from the deck of our ship. It is +called the Nuuanu Valley, and is well worthy of a visit.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span> +The main street of the town leads directly up to the +entrance to the valley; and on the road we passed +many pretty low-roofed houses surrounded by beautifully-kept +gardens, the houses being those of the chief +merchants and consuls of the port. They looked quite +cool and pleasant, embowered in green papyrus, tamarind, +and palm-trees, which shaded them from the hot +tropical sun with their large-leaved foliage. I find the +sun now, in winter-time, so hot that it is almost intolerable. +What must it be in summer?</p> + +<p>As we proceed, we reach the fertile land, which +nearly all lies at the foot of the mountains, the long +disintegration of the high ground having left a rich +deposit for vegetable growth. Some patches of arrowroot +lie close to the road, irrigated by the streams that +run down from the mountain above. But the principal +crop is the taro-plant (<i>Arum esculentum</i>), from which +the native food of <i>poi</i> is made. Let me say a few words +about this <i>poi</i>, as it forms the main staple of Hawaiian +food. The taro is grown in pits or beds, kept very wet,—in +which case, urged by the natural heat of the climate, +it grows with immense rapidity and luxuriance. It is +the succulent root which is used for food. It is pounded +into a semi-fluid mess, after which it is allowed to stand +a few days and ferment; it is then worked about with +the hands until it acquires the proper consistency for +eating, when it is stored in gourds and calabashes. It +must be of a certain thickness, neither too soft nor too +firm, something of the consistency of thick flour-paste, +though glutinous, and it is eaten in the following<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span> +manner. Two fingers are dipped into the pot containing +the <i>poi</i>, and turned rapidly round until a sufficient +quantity of the paste adheres to them; then, by +a rapid motion, the lot is wriggled out of the pot, conveyed +into the mouth, and the fingers are sucked clean. +Young girls dip in only one finger at a time, the men +two fingers. I was frequently invited to dip my fingers +into the <i>poi</i> and try it, being told that it was very +good; but I had not the courage.<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a></p> + +<p>But to proceed on my walk up the Nuuanu Valley. +About two miles from the town, we came to a very +pretty villa on one side of the road,—with some large +native huts, in a shady garden, on the other. We +find that this villa is the country residence of Queen +Emma. Looking in through the gate of the garden +opposite, who should I see but our quondam lady +passenger from Sydney, Miss Ribbids, reclining on a +bank in the most luxurious fashion! She had walked +up the valley alone, she informed us, and the natives +had been most kind to her, giving her fruits, and +wreaths of flowers for her adornment.</p> + +<p>Proceeding up the valley, we find ourselves on high +ground, our road having been for the most part up-hill. +Looking back, a charming view lies spread before us. +The sky is brilliant and unclouded. Below us lie the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span> +town and harbour, the blue sea as smooth as a mirror, +shipping dotting the bay, and a silvery line of water +breaking along the distant reef. We begin to catch +the breeze blowing from the upper part of the valley, +and it feels fresh and invigorating after toiling under +the noonday sun.</p> + +<p>As we ascend the road we meet several of the native +girls coming down on horseback. They seem to have +quite a passion for riding in the island, and have often +to be prevented racing through the streets of Honolulu. +The horses are of a poor breed; but the women, who +sit astride like the men, seem plucky riders, their +long, flowing dresses making respectable riding-habits. +Most of the girls wore garlands of <i>ohelo</i> and other +flowers round their heads, being very fond of ornament.</p> + +<p>Shortly after meeting the girls, a man passed us, at +the usual jog canter, with a coffin slung on the saddle +in front of him, and after him followed another rider +with the lid. We remarked upon the strange burden, +and I asked of the first man, who was going to be +buried? "My wife," he replied; "me pay seventy-five +dollars for um coffin." He grinned, and seemed +quite pleased with his coffin, which was really a handsome +one.</p> + +<p>As we ascend, we seem to get quite into the bush. +Thick vegetation spreads up the steep hills on each +side of us. I can now understand how difficult it must +be to travel through a tropical forest. The brushwood +grows so close together, and is so intertwined, that it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span> +would appear almost impossible to force one's way +through it. The mountains rise higher and higher as +we advance, and are covered with lovely light-green +foliage. The hills seem to have been thrown up evenly +in ridges, each ridge running up the mountain-side +having its separate peak. Here and there a small +cataract leaps down the face of a rock, shining like a +silver thread, and disappearing in the brushwood below +until it comes down to swell the mountain-torrent +running by our side close to the road.</p> + +<p>At a turn of the road, we suddenly encountered a +number of men coming down from some cattle ranches +in the hills, mounted <i>à la Mexicaine</i>, with lassoes on +their saddles and heavy whips in their hands, driving +before them a few miserable cattle. There seemed to +be about eighteen men to a dozen small beasts. I guess +that a couple of Australian stockmen, with their whips, +could easily have driven before them the whole lot—men, +horses, and cattle.</p> + +<p>We were now about seven miles from Honolulu, and +very near the end of our up-hill journey. After walking +up a steeper ascent than usual, the scenery becoming +even more romantic and picturesque, we pass through +a thicket of hibiscus and other trees, when suddenly, +on turning round a small pile of volcanic rocks, we +emerge on an open space, and the grand precipice or +Pali, of the Nuuanu Valley bursts upon us with startling +effect.</p> + +<p>Here, in some tremendous convulsion of Nature, the +mountain-ridge seems to have been suddenly rent and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span> +burst through towards its summit, and we look down +over a precipice some five hundred feet deep. It is +possible to wind down the face of the rock by a narrow +path; but, having no mind to make the descent, we +rest and admire the magnificent prospect before and +below us. Under the precipice is a forest, so near to +the foot of the rock that one might easily pitch a stone +into it. Over the forest stretches a lovely country, +green and fresh, dotted with hills and woods. The sea, +about seven miles off, bounds the view, with its silver +line of breakers on the outer reef. The long line of +white looks beautiful on the calm blue sea, with the +sun shining on it. The country before us did not seem +to be much cultivated. Here and there, below us, a +native hut might be discerned amidst the trees, but no +large dwelling or village was in sight.</p> + +<p>The rent in the mountain, through which we have +passed, is torn and rugged. Immense masses of black +rock, several hundred feet in height, and nearly perpendicular, +form the two sides of the rift. On one side, +the mountain seems to rise straight up into the air, +until it is lost in a white cloud; on the other, the rock +is equally precipitous, but not quite so high. From +this last the range stretches away in a semicircle, +ending along the coast some twenty miles distant.</p> + +<p>A few more words about the natives, whom I have +as yet only incidentally alluded to. Of course, I saw a +good deal of them, in one way or another, during my +brief stay at Honolulu. We had scarcely got alongside +the wharf, ere the Kanakas—as they are called—came<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span> +aboard, popping their heads in and out of the +cabins, some selling bananas and oranges, others offering +coral and curiosities, but most of them to examine the +ship out of mere curiosity. From what I observed, I +should say that the Kanakas are of the same stock as +the Maoris, not so much tattoo-marked, much more +peacefully inclined, and probably more industrious. +Some of the men are tall and handsome, which is more +than I can say of the women. The men do not work +very heartily on day wages, but well enough when paid +by the piece. Here, on the wharf, they get a dollar for +a day's work, and a dollar-and-a-half for night-work. +They are employed in filling the coal-bunkers and +unloading the ship.</p> + +<p>The Kanakas are capital divers, and work almost +as well in the water as out of it. I saw one of them +engaged in repairing the bottom of the 'Moses Taylor,' +by which I am to sail for San Francisco. He is paid +three dollars for a general inspection, or five dollars +for a day's work. I saw him go down to nail a piece +of copper-sheathing on the bottom, where it had been +damaged in grounding upon a rock, when last coming +out of San Francisco harbour. He took down about +thirty copper nails in his mouth, with the hammer and +sheet of copper in his hand, coming up to breathe +after each nail was knocked in. I could hear the loud +knocking as he drove the nails into the ship's side. +At the same time, some Kanaka boys were playing +about in the water near at hand, diving for stones or +bits of money. The piece was never allowed to sink<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span> +more than a few feet before a boy was down after it +and secured it. They never missed the smallest silver-bit. +It seemed to me as if some of them could swim +before they could walk.</p> + +<p>As for the women, although travellers have spread +abroad reports of their beauty, I was unable to see it. +While the 'Moses Taylor' lay in the harbour, the saloon +was sometimes full of native girls, who came down +from the country to see the ship and admire themselves +in the two large saloon mirrors, before which they +stood laughing and giggling. Their usual dress consists +of a long, loose gown, reaching down to the ancles, +with no fastening round the waist; and their heads and +necks are usually adorned with leaves or flowers of +some sort. They seem to me very like the Maori +women, but without the blue tattoo-mark on the lips; +nor are their features so strongly marked, though they +had the same wide faces, black eyes, full nostrils, and +large lips. Their skins are of various hues, from a +yellow to a dusky-brown. Their feet and hands are +usually small and neat.</p> + +<p>I am told that the race is degenerating and dying +out fast. The population of the islands is said to be +little more than one-tenth of what it was when Captain +Cook visited them; and this falling off is reported to be +mainly due to the unchaste habits of the women. The +missionaries have long been trying to make a salutary +impression on them; but, though the natives profess +Christianity in various forms, it is to be feared that it is +a profession, and little more. The King, also, has tried<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span> +to make them more moral, by putting in force a sort +of Maine liquor-law; but every ship that enters the +harbour is beset by natives wanting drink, and they +adopt various methods of evading the law. The licence +charged by the Government to a retailer of spirits is +a thousand dollars a year; but he must not sell liquor +to any foreigner on a Sunday, nor to any native at any +time, under a penalty of five hundred dollars. This +penalty is rigidly exacted; and if the spirit-dealer is +unable to pay the fine, he is put on the coral-reefs, +to work at twenty-five cents a day until he has worked +off the amount. Accordingly, the liquor-trade is followed +by very few persons, and the consumption of +drink by the natives is very much curtailed,—compared, +for instance, with what it is among the drink-consuming +natives of New Zealand, who are allowed +to swallow the "fire-water," to the great profit of the +publicans and to their own demoralization, without any +restriction whatever.</p> + +<p>I find the Government here also levies a very considerable +sum from the Chinese, for the privilege of +selling opium. It is put up annually to auction, and +in some years as much as forty-five thousand dollars +have been paid for the monopoly, though this year it +has brought considerably less in consequence of the +dulness of trade. From this circumstance it will be +inferred that there is a considerable Chinese population +in the place. Indeed, some of the finest stores in +Honolulu are kept by Chinamen. I did not at first +observe many of these people about; but afterwards,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span> +when exploring, I found whole back-streets full of +Chinamen's huts and houses.</p> + +<p>From the announcements of theatrical and other +entertainments I see about, the people here must be +very fond of amusement. Indeed, Honolulu seems to +be one of the great centres of pleasure in the Pacific. +All wandering "stars" come hither. When I was at +Auckland, in New Zealand, I went to the theatre to +see a troupe of Japanese jugglers. I had seen the +identical troupe in London, and "All Right" was +amongst them. They were on their way to Honolulu, +to star it here before returning to Japan. Charles +Mathews, with whom I made the voyage from Melbourne +to Sydney, is also advertised to appear, "for +a few nights only," at the Royal Hawaiian Theatre.<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span> +And now here is The Bandman, my fellow-passenger +from Auckland, advertised, in big placards, as "The +World-renowned Shaksperian Player," &c., who is about +to give a series of such and such representations at the +same place.</p> + +<p>Beautiful though the island of Oahu may be, I soon +found that I could not live there. Even in winter it was +like living in a hothouse. The air was steamy with +heat, and frightfully relaxing. At intervals my nose +streamed with blood, and I grew sensibly thinner. +Then I suffered terribly from the musquitoes; my ankles +were quite swollen with their bites, and in a day or +two more I should have been dead-lame. There are, +besides, other tormentors—small flies, very like the +Victorian sand-flies, that give one a nasty sting. I +was very glad, therefore, after four days' stay at Honolulu, +to learn that the 'Moses Taylor' was ready to +sail for San Francisco.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> The poi is said to grow so +abundantly and with so little labour +in the Sandwich Islands, +that it tends to encourage the +natural indolence of the people. +A taro pit no bigger than an +ordinary drawing-room will keep +a man in food a whole year. Nature +is so prolific that labour is +scarcely requisite in these hot +climates. Thus the sun may be a +great demoralizer.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> I find in a Californian paper +the following amusing account by +Mr. Mathews himself, of his appearance +before a Honolulu audience:— +</p><p> +"At Honolulu, one of the loveliest +little spots upon earth, I acted +one night 'by command, and in +the presence of his Majesty Kamehameha +V., King of the Sandwich +Islands' (not 'Hoky Poky +Wonky Fong,' as erroneously reported), +and a memorable night it +was. On my way to the quaint +little Hawaiian Theatre, situated +in a rural lane, in the midst of a +pretty garden, glowing with gaudy +tropical flowers, and shaded by +cocoa-trees, bananas, banyans, and +tamarinds, I met the playbill of +the evening. A perambulating +Kanaka (or native black gentleman), +walking between two boards +(called in London, figuratively, 'a +sandwich man,' but here, of course +literally so), carried aloft a large +illuminated white lantern, with +the announcement in the Kanaka +language to catch the attention of +the coloured inhabitants: 'Charles +Mathews; Keaka Keia Po (Theatre +open this evening). Ka uku +o Ke Komo ana (reserved seats, +dress circle), $2.50; Nohi mua +(Parquette), $1; Noho ho (Kanaka +pit), 75c.' I found the theatre +(to use the technical expression) +'crammed to suffocation,' which +merely means 'very full,' though +from the state of the thermometer +on this occasion, 'suffocation' was +not so incorrect a description as +usual. A really elegant-looking +audience (tickets 10<i>s.</i> each), evening +dresses, uniforms of every cut +and every country. 'Chieftesses' +and ladies of every tinge, in +dresses of every colour, flowers and +jewels in profusion, satin playbills, +fans going, windows and doors all +open, an outside staircase leading +straight into the dress circle, +without lobby, check-taker, or +money-taker. Kanaka women in +the garden below selling bananas +and pea-nuts by the glare of flaring +torches on a sultry tropical moonlight +night. The whole thing was +like nothing but a midsummer-night's +dream. And was it nothing +to see a pit full of Kanakas, black, +brown, and whitey-brown (till +lately cannibals), showing their +white teeth, grinning and enjoying +'Patter <i>v.</i> Clatter' as much as a +few years ago they would have +enjoyed the roasting of a missionary +or the baking of a baby? It +was certainly a page in one's life +never to be forgotten."</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXII" id="CHAPTER_XXII"></a>CHAPTER XXII.</h2> + +<h3>HONOLULU TO SAN FRANCISCO.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Departure from Honolulu</span>—<span class="smcap">Wreck of the 'Saginaw'</span>—<span class="smcap">The +'Moses Taylor'</span>—<span class="smcap">The Accommodation</span>—<span class="smcap">The Company on +Board</span>—<span class="smcap">Behaviour of the Ship</span>—<span class="smcap">Death of a Passenger</span>—<span class="smcap">Feelings +on Landing in a New Place</span>—<span class="smcap">Approach the Golden +Gate</span>—<span class="smcap">Close of the Pacific Log</span>—<span class="smcap">First Sight of America</span>.</p> + + +<p>The departure of the 'Moses Taylor' was evidently +regarded as a great event at Honolulu. At the hour +appointed for our sailing, a great crowd had assembled +on the wharf. All the notabilities of the place seemed +to be there. First and foremost was the King of the +Sandwich Islands himself, Kamehameha V.—a jolly-looking, +portly old fellow, standing about six feet high, +and weighing over five-and-twenty stone—every inch +and ounce a king. Then there were the chief ministers +of his court, white, yellow, and dusky. There +were also English, Americans, and Chinese, with a +crowd of full-blooded Kanakas—all very orderly and +admiring. And round the outskirts of the throng were +several carriages filled with native ladies.</p> + +<p>Punctually at half-past 4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, we got away from +our moorings, with "three cheers for Honolulu," which +were raised by a shipwrecked crew we had on board.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> +Leaving the pier, we shortly passed through the opening +in the reef which forms the entrance to the harbour, +and steamed steadily eastward in the direction of San +Francisco.</p> + +<p>I must explain how it was that the "three cheers +for Honolulu" were raised. The 'Saginaw' was an +American war-ship that had been sent with a contract +party to Midway Island in the North Pacific—some +fifteen hundred miles west-north-west of the Sandwich +Islands—to blast the coral-reef there, in order to +provide a harbourage for the line of large steamers +running between San Francisco and China. The +money voted for the purpose by the Government +having been spent, the 'Saginaw' was on its return +voyage from the island, when the captain determined +to call at Ocean Island to see if there were any shipwrecked +crews there; but in a fog, the ship ran upon +a coral-reef, and was itself wrecked. The men, to +the number of ninety-three, contrived to reach the +island, where they remained sixty-nine days, during +which they lived mostly on seal meat and the few +stores they had been able to save from their ship. The +island itself is entirely barren, containing only a few +bushes and a sort of dry grass, with millions of rats—supposed +to have bred from rats landed from shipwrecked +vessels. Strict military discipline was preserved +by the officers, and the men as a body behaved +remarkably well.</p> + +<p>At length, no vessel appearing in sight, four of the +sailors volunteered to row in an open boat to the Sandwich<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span> +Islands—more than a thousand miles distant—for +the purpose of reporting the wreck of the ship, and sending +relief to those on the island. The boat departed, +reached the reef which surrounds Kauai, an island to +the north-west of Oahu, and was there wrecked, only +one of the men succeeding in reaching the shore. +So soon as the intelligence of the wreck of the 'Saginaw' +reached Honolulu, the Government immediately dispatched +a steamer to take the men off the desert +island; and hence the enthusiastic cheers for Honolulu, +raised by the rescued officers and men of the American +ship, who are now all on board the 'Moses Taylor,' on +their way back to San Francisco.</p> + +<p>I must now describe my new ship. She is called +the 'Rolling Moses;' but with what justice I am as +yet unable to say. She certainly looks singularly top-hampered,—altogether +unlike any British ship that I +have ever seen. She measures twice as much in the +beam as the 'City of Melbourne;' is about 2000 tons +register; is flat-bottomed, and draws about fourteen +feet of water when laden. She looks like a great big +house afloat, or rather a row of houses more than thirty +feet high. The decks seemed piled one a-top of the +other, quite promiscuously. First there is the dining-saloon, +with cabins all round it; above is the drawing-room, +with more cabins; then above that is the +hurricane deck, with numerous deck-houses for the captain +and officers; and then, towering above all, there +is the large beam-engine right between the paddle-boxes. +Altogether it looks a very unwieldy affair, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span> +I would certainly much rather trust myself to such a +ship as the 'City of Melbourne.' It strikes me that +in a heavy sea, 'Moses's' hull would run some risk of +parting company with the immense structure above.</p> + +<p>The cabin accommodation is, however, greatly superior +to that of my late ship,—there is so much more room, +and the whole arrangements for the comfort of the +passengers are all that could be desired. The Americans +certainly do seem to understand comfort in travelling. +The stewards and people about are civil and obliging, +and don't seem to be always looking for a "tip," as is +so customary on board an English boat. This ship also +is cleaner than the one I have left—there are none of +those hideous smells that so disgusted me on board +'The City.' The meals are better, and there is much +greater variety—lots of different little dishes—of meat, +stews, mashed potatoes, squashes, hominy or corn-cake, +and such like. So far as the living goes, therefore, +I think I shall get on very well on board the +'Moses Taylor.'</p> + +<p>The weather is wet and what sailors call "dirty," +and it grows sensibly colder. As there is no pleasure +in remaining on deck, I keep for the most part below. I +like my company very much—mostly consisting of the +shipwrecked men of the 'Saginaw.' They are nice, +lively fellows; they encourage me to talk, and we +have many a hearty laugh together. Some of them +give me no end of yarns about the late war, in which +they were engaged; and they tell me (whether true +or not, I have no means of knowing), that the captain<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span> +of the ship we are in was first lieutenant of the +"pirate" ship 'Florida.' I have not found amongst +my companions as yet any of that self-assertion or +pride of nationality said to distinguish the Yankee; +nor have I heard a word from them of hostility to +John Bull. Indeed, for the purpose of drawing them +out, I began bragging a little about England, but they +let me have my own way without contradiction. They +say nothing about politics, or, if they allude to the +subject, express very moderate opinions. Altogether, +I get on with them; and like them very much.</p> + +<p>The 'Moses Taylor' proves a steadier sea-boat than I +expected from her built-up appearance. She certainly +gives many a long steady roll; but there is little pitching +or tossing. When the sea strikes her, she quivers +all over in a rather uncomfortable way. She is rather +an old ship; she formerly ran between Vancouver and +San Francisco, and is certainly the worse for wear. The +huge engine-shafts shake the beams which support +them; the pieces of timber tremble under the heavy +strokes of the engine, and considerable apertures open +from time to time in the deck as she heaves to and fro. +The weather, however, is not stormy; and the ship will +doubtless carry us safely to the end of our voyage,—going +steadily, as she does, at the rate of about eight +knots an hour. And as the distance between Honolulu +and the American coast is about 2100 miles, we shall +probably make the voyage in about ten days.</p> + +<p>On the eighth day after leaving Honolulu, an incident +occurred which made a startling impression on me.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span> +While we were laughing and talking in the cabin—kept +down there by the rain—we were told that a poor +man, who had been ailing since we left port, had +breathed his last. It seemed that he had some affection +of the gullet which prevented his swallowing food. +The surgeon on board did not possess the necessary +instrument to enable him to introduce food into his +stomach, so that he literally died of starvation. He +occupied the berth exactly opposite mine, and though +I knew he was ill, I had no idea that his end was so +near. He himself; however, had been aware of it, and +anxiously wished that he might survive until he reached +San Francisco, where his wife was to meet him at +the landing. But it was not to be; and his sudden +decease gave us all a great shock.</p> + +<p>We had our breakfast and dinner that day whilst +the body was lying in the cabin. We heard the carpenter +busy on the main deck knocking together a +coffin for its reception. Every time he knocked a +nail in, I thought of the poor dead fellow who lay +beside us. I began to speculate as to the various +feelings with which passengers land in a new place. +Some are mere passing visitors like myself, bent on +seeing novel sights; some are going thither, full of +hope, to make a new settlement in life; some are returning +home, expecting old friends waiting on the pier-head +to meet and welcome them. But there are sad +meetings, too; and here there will be an anxious wife +waiting at the landing-place, only to receive the dead +body of her husband.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span></p> + +<p>But a truce to moralizing; for we are approaching +the Golden Gate. I must now pack up my +things, and finish my log. I have stuck to it at all +hours and in all weathers; jotted down little bits from +time to time in the intervals of sea-sickness, toothache, +and tic douloureux; written under a burning tropical +sun, and amidst the drizzle and down-pour of the North +Pacific; but I have found pleasure in keeping it up, +because I know that it will be read with pleasure by +those for whom it is written, and it will serve to show +that amidst all my wanderings, I have never forgotten +the Old Folks at Home.</p> + +<p>At half-past four on the morning of the tenth day +from our leaving Honolulu, we sighted the lighthouse +at the Golden Gate, which forms the entrance to the +spacious bay or harbour of San Francisco. Suddenly, +there is a great scampering about of the passengers, a +general packing up of baggage; a brushing of boots, +hats, and clothes; and a dressing up in shore-going +"togs." The steward comes round to look after his +perquisites, and every one is in a bustle about something +or other.</p> + +<p>I took a last rest in my bunk—for it was still early +morning—until I was told that we were close along-shore; +and then I jumped up, went on deck, and saw +America for the first time.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIII" id="CHAPTER_XXIII"></a>CHAPTER XXIII.</h2> + +<h3>SAN FRANCISCO TO SACRAMENTO.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Landing at San Francisco</span>—<span class="smcap">The Golden City</span>—<span class="smcap">The Streets</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Business Quarter</span>—<span class="smcap">The Chinese Quarter</span>—<span class="smcap">The Touters</span>—<span class="smcap">Leave +San Francisco</span>—<span class="smcap">The Ferry-Boat to Oakland</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Bay of San Francisco</span>—<span class="smcap">Landing on the Eastern Shore</span>—<span class="smcap">American +Railway Carriages</span>—<span class="smcap">The Pullman's Cars</span>—<span class="smcap">Sleeping +Berths</span>—<span class="smcap">Unsavoury Chinamen</span>—<span class="smcap">The Country</span>—<span class="smcap">City of +Sacramento</span>.</p> + + +<p>We have passed in from the Pacific through the +Golden Gate, swung round towards the south, and +then, along the eastern margin of the peninsula which +runs up to form the bay, the City of San Francisco lies +before me! A great mass of houses and warehouses, +fronted by a long line of wharves, extends along the +water's edge. Masses of houses, tipped with occasional +towers and spires, rise up on the high ground behind, +crowning the summits of Telegraph, Russian, and Clay +Street Hills.</p> + +<p>But we have little time to take note of the external +features of the city, for we are already alongside the +pier. Long before the gangways can be run out and +laid between the ship and the wharf, there is a rush of +hotel runners on board, calling out the names of their +respective hotels and distributing their cards. There<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span> +is a tremendous hurry-scurry. The touters make +dashes at the baggage and carry it off, sometimes in +different directions, each hoping to secure a customer +for his hotel. Thus, in a very few minutes, the ship +was cleared; all the passengers were bowling along +towards their several destinations; and in a few +minutes I found myself safely deposited in "The +Brooklyn," a fine large hotel in Bush Street, situated +in the business part of the town, with dwellings interspersed +amongst the business houses.</p> + +<p>It is not necessary to describe San Francisco. +Travellers have done that over and over again. +Indeed, there is not so much about it that is of any +great interest except to business men. One part of +the city is very like another. I was told that some +of the finest buildings were of the Italian order; but I +should say that by far the greater number were of the +Ramshackle order. Although the first house in the +place was only built in 1835, the streets nearest to the +wharves look already old and worn out. They are +for the most part of wood, and their paint is covered +with dirt. But though prematurely old, they are by +no means picturesque. Of course, in so large a place, +with a population of 150,000, and already so rich and +prosperous, though so young, there are many fine +buildings and some fine streets. The hotels carry +away the palm as yet,—the Grand Hotel at the corner +of Market and New Montgomery Streets being the +finest. There are also churches, theatres, hospitals, +markets, and all the other appurtenances of a great city.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span></p> + +<p>I had not for a long time seen such a bustle of +traffic as presented itself in the streets of San Francisco. +The whole place seemed to be alive. Foot passengers +jostled each other; drays and waggons were rolling +about; business men were clustered together in some +streets, apparently "on change;" with all the accompaniments +of noise, and bustle, and turmoil of a city +full of life and traffic. The money brokers' shops are +very numerous in the two finest streets—Montgomery +and California Streets. Nearly every other shop there +belongs to a money broker or money changer. Strange +to see the piles of glistening gold in the windows—ten +to twenty dollar pieces, and heaps of greenbacks.</p> + +<p>John Chinaman is here, I see, in great force. There +are said to be as many as 30,000 in the city and +neighbourhood. I wonder these people do not breed a +plague. I went through their quarter one evening, +and was surprised and disgusted with what I saw. +Chinese men and women of the lowest class were swarming +in their narrow alleys. Looking down into small +cellars, I saw from ten to fifteen men and women living +in places which two white men would not sleep in. +The adjoining streets smelt most abominably. The +street I went through must be one of the worst; and I +was afterwards told that it was "dangerous" to pass +through it. I observed a large wooden screen at each +end of it, as if for the purpose of shutting it off from +the white people's quarter.</p> + +<p>One of the nuisances we had to encounter in the +streets was that of railway touters. No sooner did we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span> +emerge from the hotel door, than men lying in wait +pounced upon us, offering tickets by this route, that +route, and the other route to New York. I must have +had a very "new chum" sort of look, for I was accosted +no less than three times one evening by different +touting gentlemen. One wished to know if I had +come from Sydney, expressing his admiration of +Australia generally. Another asked if I was "going +East," offering to sell me a through ticket at a reduced +price. The third also introduced the Sydney topic, +telling me, by way of inducement to buy a ticket of +him, that he had "worked there." I shook them all +off, knowing them to be dangerous customers. I heard +some strange stories of young fellows making friends +with such strangers, and having drinks with them. +The drink is drugged, and the Sydney swell, on his +way to New York, finds himself next morning in the +streets, minus purse, watch, and everything of value +about him.</p> + +<p>There is only one railway route as yet across +the Rocky Mountains, by the Western, Central, and +Union Pacific, as far as Omaha; but from that point +there are various lines to New York, and it was to +secure passengers by these respective routes that the +touters were so busily at work. All the hotels, bars, +and stores, are full of their advertisements:—"The +Shortest Route to the East"—"Pullman's Palace Cars +Run on this Line"—"The Route of all Nations"—"The +Grand Route, <i>viâ</i> Niagara," such are a few +specimens of these urgent announcements. I decided<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span> +to select the route <i>viâ</i> Chicago, Detroit, Niagara, and +down the Hudson river to New York; and made my +arrangements accordingly.</p> + +<p class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a href="images/image248-lg.png"> +<img src="images/image248.png" width="600" height="314" alt="(Map of Atlantic and Pacific Railways) Reduced from +a Map in Mr. Rae's" title="(Map of Atlantic and Pacific Railways)" /> +</a><span class="caption">(Map of Atlantic and Pacific Railways) <i>Reduced from +a Map in Mr. Rae's</i></span> +</p> + +<p>I left San Francisco on the morning of the 8th of +February. The weather was cold compared with that +of the Sandwich Islands; yet there were few signs of +winter. There was no snow on the ground; and at +midday it was agreeable and comparatively mild. I +knew, however, that as soon as we left the shores of +the Pacific, and ascended the western slopes of the +Rocky Mountains, if not before, we should encounter +thorough winter weather, and I prepared myself with +coats and wrappers as a defence from the cold.</p> + +<p>My fellow-voyager from New Zealand, the German-American +of whom I have spoken above, and who +seemed to take quite a liking for me, accompanied +me down to the wharf, where we parted with mutual +regret. It was necessary for me to cross the bay by a +ferry-boat to Oakland, where the train is made up and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span> +starts for Sacramento. There was a considerable crowd +round the baggage-office, where I gave up my trunks, +and obtained, in exchange, two small brass checks +which will enable me to reclaim them on the arrival +of the train at Omaha. I proceeded down the pier and +on to the ferry-boat. Indeed, I was on it before I was +aware. It looked so like a part of the wharf, and +was so surrounded by piles and wooden erections, that +I did not know I was on its deck, and was inquiring +about its arrival to take us off, when I found the +huge boat gradually moving away from the pier!</p> + +<p class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a href="images/image249-lg.png"> +<img src="images/image249.png" width="600" height="311" alt="'Westward by Rail.' Longmans. 1871." title="'Westward by Rail.' Longmans. 1871." /> +</a><span class="caption">'<i>Westward by Rail</i>.' <i>Longmans</i>. 1871.</span> +</p> + +<p>It was a regular American ferry-boat, of the same +build fore and aft, capable of going alike backwards or +forwards, and with a long bridge at each end, ready to +be let down at the piers on either side of the bay, so +as to enable carts or carriages to be driven directly on +to the main deck, which was just like a large covered +yard, standing level with the wharf. Over this was an +upper deck with a nice saloon, where I observed notices<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span> +stuck up of "No spitting allowed;" showing that +there was greater consideration for the ladies here than +there was on board the 'Moses Taylor,' where spittle +and quids were constantly shooting about the decks, +with very little regard for passers-by, whether ladies +or gentlemen.</p> + +<p>Steaming away from the pier, we obtained a splendid +view of the city behind us. The wharves along its +front were crowded with shipping of all sorts; amongst +which we could observe the huge American three-decker +river steamers, Clyde-built clippers, brigs, +schooners, and a multitude of smaller craft. Down +the bay we see the green hills rising in the distance, +fading away in the grey of the morning. Close on our +left is a pretty island, about half-way across the bay, +in the centre of which is a green hill,—what seemed +to Australian eyes good pasture ground; and I could +discern what I took to be a station or farmhouse.</p> + +<p>In about an hour we found ourselves nearing the +land on the eastern shore of the bay, where we observe +the railway comes out to meet us. The water on this +side is so shoal for a distance from the shore that no +ships of any considerable burden can float in it, so that +the railway is carried out on piles into the deep water +for a distance of nearly a mile. Here we land, and get +into the train waiting alongside; then the engine +begins to snort, and we are away. As we move off +from the waters of San Francisco Bay, I feel I have +made another long stride on the road towards England.</p> + +<p>We continue for some time rolling along the rather<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span> +shaky timber pier on which the rails are laid. At last +we reach the dry land, and speed through Oakland—a +pretty town—rattling through the streets just like an +omnibus or tramway car, ringing a bell to warn people +of the approach of the cars. We stop at nearly every +station, and the local traffic seems large. Farm land +and nice rolling country stretches away on either side +of the track.</p> + +<p>From looking out of the carriage windows, I begin +to take note of the carriage itself—a real American +railway carriage. It is a long car with a passage down +the middle. On each side of this passage are seats for +two persons, facing the engine; but the backs being +reversible, a party of four can sit as in an English +carriage, face to face. At each end of the carriage is a +stove, and a filter of iced water. The door at each end +leads out on to a platform, enabling the conductor to +walk through the train from one end to the other.</p> + +<p>This arrangement for the conductor, by the way, is +rather a nuisance. He comes round six or seven times +during the twenty-four hours, often during the night, +perhaps at a time when you are trying to snatch a few +minutes' nap, and you find your shoulder tapped, and +a bull's-eye turned full upon you, with a demand for +"tickets." This, however, is to be avoided by affixing +a little card in your hat, which the conductor gives +you, so that by inspection he knows at once whether +his passenger is legitimate or not.</p> + +<p>I did not travel by one of "Pullman's Silver Palace +Drawing-room Cars," though I examined them, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span> +admired their many comforts. By day they afford +roomy accommodation, with ample space for walking +about, or for playing at cards or chess on the tables +provided for the purpose. At night a double row of +comfortable-looking berths are made up, a curtain +being drawn along the front to render them as +private as may be, and leaving only a narrow passage +along the centre of the car. At the end of the car are +conveniences for washing, iced water, and the never-failing +stove.</p> + +<p>The use of the sleeping-cars costs about three or four +dollars extra per night. I avoided this expense, and +contrived a very good substitute in my second-class +car. Fortunately we were not very full of passengers; +and by making use of four seats, or two benches, +turning one of the seat-backs round, and placing the +seat-bottoms lengthwise, I arranged a tolerably good +sleeping-place for the night. But had the carriage +been full, and the occupants been under the necessity +of sitting up during the six days the journey lasted, +I should imagine that it must have become almost +intolerable by the time we reached Omaha.</p> + +<p>There were some rather unpleasant fellow-travellers +in my compartment—several unsavoury Chinamen, +smoking very bad tobacco; and other smoking gentlemen, +who make the second-class compartments their +rendezvous. But for the thorough draught we obtained +from time to time on the passage of the conductor, +the atmosphere would be, as indeed it often was, of a +very disagreeable character.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span></p> + +<p>About forty-two miles from San Francisco, I find +we are already in amongst the hills of a range, and +winding in and out through pretty valleys, where all +available land is used for farming purposes. We round +some curves that look almost impossible, and I begin +to feel the oscillation of the carriages, by no means +unlike the rolling of a ship at sea. I often wished +that it had been summer instead of winter, that I +might better have enjoyed the beauty of the scenery +as we sped along. As it was, I could see that the +country must be very fine under a summer sky. We +have met with no snow at present, being still on the +sunny slopes of the Pacific; nor have we as yet +mounted up to any very high elevation.</p> + +<p>We were not long in passing through the range +of hills of which I have spoken, and then we emerged +upon the plains, which continued until we reached +Sacramento, the capital of the State. The only town of +any importance that we have yet passed was Stockton, +a place about midway between San Francisco and +Sacramento, where we now are. Down by the riverside +I see some large lumber-yards, indicative of a +considerable timber trade. The wharves were dirty, +as wharves generally are; but they were busy with +traffic. The town seemed well laid out, in broad +streets; the houses being built widely apart, each with +its garden about it; while long lines of trees run +along most of the streets. Prominent amongst the +buildings is the large new Senate House or Capitol, +a really grand feature of the city. The place having<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span> +been originally built of wood, it has been liable to +conflagrations, which have more than once nearly +destroyed it. Floods have also swept over the valley, +and carried away large portions of the town; but +having been rebuilt on piles ten feet above the original +level, it is now believed to be secure against injury +from this cause.</p> + +<p>Sacramento is the terminus of the Western Pacific +Railway, from which the Central Pacific extends east +towards the Rocky Mountains. The railway workshops +of the Company are located here, and occupy +a large extent of ground. They are said to be very +complete and commodious.</p> + +<p>Many of the passengers by the train, whom we had +brought on from San Francisco, or picked up along +the road, descended here; and I was very glad to +observe that amongst them were the Chinamen, who +relieved us from their further most disagreeable odour. +After a short stoppage, and rearrangement of the train, +we were off again, toiling up the slopes of the Sierra +Nevada—the Switzerland of California.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIV" id="CHAPTER_XXIV"></a>CHAPTER XXIV.</h2> + +<h3>ACROSS THE SIERRA NEVADA.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Rapid Ascent</span>—<span class="smcap">The Trestle-Bridges</span>—<span class="smcap">Mountain Prospects</span>—"<span class="smcap">Placers</span>"—<span class="smcap">Sunset</span>—<span class="smcap">Cape +Horn</span>—<span class="smcap">Alta</span>—<span class="smcap">The Sierras by +Night</span>—<span class="smcap">Contrast of Temperatures</span>—<span class="smcap">The Snow-Sheds</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Summit</span>—<span class="smcap">Reno</span>—<span class="smcap">Breakfast at Humboldt</span>—<span class="smcap">The Sage-Brush</span>—<span class="smcap">Battle +Mount</span>—<span class="smcap">Shoshonie Indians</span>—<span class="smcap">Ten Mile Cañon</span>—<span class="smcap">Elko +Station</span>—<span class="smcap">Great American Desert</span>—<span class="smcap">Arrival at +Ogden</span>.</p> + + +<p>We had now begun the ascent of the difficult mountain +country that separates the Eastern from the Western +States of the Union, and through which the Central +Pacific Railway has been recently constructed and +completed—one of the greatest railway works of our +time. As we advance, the scenery changes rapidly. +Instead of the flat and comparatively monotonous +country we have for some time been passing through, +we now cross deep gullies, climb up steep ascents, and +traverse lovely valleys. Sometimes we seem to be +enclosed in mountains with an impenetrable barrier +before us. But rushing into a tunnel, we shortly +emerge on the other side, to find ourselves steaming +along the edge of a precipice.</p> + +<p>What struck me very much was the apparent slimness +of the trestle-bridges over which we were carried<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span> +across the gullies, in the bottom of which mountain +torrents were dashing, some fifty or a hundred feet +below us. My first experience of such a crossing was +quite startling. I was standing on the platform of the +last car, looking back at the fast vanishing scene—a +winding valley shut in by pine-clad mountains which +we had for some time been ascending,—when, glancing +down on the track, instead of solid earth, I saw the +ground, through the open timbers of the trestle-bridge, +at least sixty feet below me! The timber road was +only the width of the single iron track; so that any +one looking out of the side carriage-windows would +see sixty feet down into space. The beams on which +the trestle-bridge is supported, are, in some cases, +rested on stone; but oftener they are not. It is not +easy to describe the sensation first felt on rattling over +one of these trembling viaducts, with a lovely view +down some mountain gorge, and then, perhaps, suddenly +plunging into a dark cutting on the other side of the +trestle. But use is everything; and before long I got +quite accustomed to the sensation of looking down +through the open woodwork of the line on to broken +ground and mountain torrents rushing a hundred feet +or more below me.</p> + +<p>We left Sacramento at 2 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, and evening was +coming on as we got into the mountains. Still, long +before sunset we saw many traces of large "placers," +where whole sides of the hills had been dug out and +washed away in the search for gold; the water being +brought over the hill-tops by various ingenious methods.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span> +Sometimes, too, we came upon signs of active mining, +in the water-courses led across valleys at levels above +us, consisting of wooden troughs supported on trestles +similar to those we are so frequently crossing. In +one place I saw a party of men busily at work along +the mountain side, preparatory to letting the water in +upon the auriferous ground they were exploring.</p> + +<p>I stood for more than two hours on the platform at +the rear of the train, never tired of watching the +wonderful scenery that continually receded from my +gaze,—sometimes the track suddenly disappearing as +we rounded a curve; and then looking ahead, I would +find that an entirely new prospect was opening into +view.</p> + +<p>Never shall I forget the lovely scene that evening, +when the golden sun was setting far away on the +Pacific coast. The great red orb sank slowly behind +a low hill at the end of the valley which stretched +away on our right far beneath us. The pine-trees +shone red in the departing sunlight for a short time; +then the warm, dusky glimmer gradually faded away +on the horizon, and all was over. The scene now +looked more dreary, the mountains more rugged, and +everything more desolate than before.</p> + +<p>Up we rushed, still ascending the mountain slopes, +winding in and out—higher and higher—the mountains +becoming more rugged and wild, and the country more +broken and barren-looking. Crossing slowly another +trestle-bridge seventy-five feet high, at the upper part +of a valley, we rounded a sharp curve, and found ourselves<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span> +on a lofty mountain-side along which the road +is cut, with a deep glen lying 2500 feet below us +wrapped in the shades of evening. It seems to be +quite night down there, and the trees are so shrouded +in gloom that I can scarcely discern them in the +bottom of that awful chasm. I can only clearly see +defined against the sky above me, the rugged masses +of overhanging rock, black-looking and terrible.</p> + +<p>I find, on inquiry, that this part of the road is called +"Cape Horn," The bluffs at this point are so precipitous, +that when the railroad was made, the workmen +had to be lowered down the face of the rock by ropes +and held on by men above, until they were enabled to +blast for themselves a foot-hold on the side of the +precipice. We have now ascended to a height of +nearly 3200 feet above the level of the sea; and, as +may be inferred, the night air grows sharp and cold. +As little more can be seen for the present, I am under +the necessity of taking shelter in the car.</p> + +<p>At half-past six we stopped for tea at Alta, 207 miles +from San Francisco, at an elevation of 3600 feet above +the sea. Here I had a good meal for a dollar—the +first since leaving 'Frisco. Had I known of the short +stoppages and the distant refreshing places along the +route, I would certainly have provided myself with a +well-stored luncheon-basket before setting out; but it +is now too late.</p> + +<p>After a stoppage of twenty minutes, the big bell +tolled, and we seated ourselves in the cars again; and +away we went as before, still toiling up-hill. We are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span> +really climbing now. I can hear it by the strong snorts +of the engine, and see it by the steepness of the track. +I long to be able to see around me, for we are passing +some of the grandest scenery of the line. The stars +are now shining brightly over head, and give light +enough to show the patches of snow lying along +the mountain-sides as we proceed. The snow becomes +more continuous as we mount the ascent, until only the +black rocks and pine-trees stand out in relief against +their white background.</p> + +<p>I was contrasting the sharp cold of this mountain +region with the bright summer weather I had left +behind me in Australia only a few weeks ago, and the +much more stifling heat of Honolulu only some ten +days since, when the engine gave one of its loud +whistles, like the blast of a fog-horn, and we plunged +into darkness. Looking through the car window, I +observed that we were passing through a wooden framework—in +fact a snow-shed, the roof sloping from the +mountain-side, to carry safely over the track the snow +and rocky <i>débris</i> which shoot down from above. I find +there are miles upon miles of these snow-sheds along +our route. At the Summit we pass through the +longest, which is 1700 feet in length.</p> + +<p>We reached the Summit at ten minutes to ten, +having ascended 3400 feet in a distance of only thirty-six +miles. We are now over 7000 feet above the level +of the sea, travelling through a lofty mountain region. +In the morning, I was on the warm shores of the +Pacific; and now at night I am amidst the snows of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span> +the Sierras. After passing the Summit, we had some +very tortuous travelling; going very fast during an +hour, but winding in and out, as we did, following the +contour of the hills, I found that we had only gained +seven geographical miles in an hour. We then reached +the "City" of Truckee, principally supported by lumbering. +It is the last place in California, and we shall +very soon be across the State boundary into the territory +of Nevada.</p> + +<p>After passing this station, I curled up on my bench, +wrapped myself in my rugs, and had a snatch of sleep. +I was wakened up by the stoppage of the train at the +Reno station, when I shook myself up, and went out to +have a look round me. As I alighted from the train, I +had almost come to the ground through the slipperiness +of the platform, which was coated with ice. It +was a sharp frost, and the ground was covered with +snow. At the end of the platform, the snow was piled +up in a drift about twenty feet high on the top of a +shed outside the station. I find there are two kinds of +snow-sheds,—one sort used on the plains, with pointed +roofs, from which the snow slides down on either side, +thereby preventing the blocking of the line; the other, +used along the mountain-sides, sloping over the track, +so as to carry the snow-shoots clear over it down into +the valley below.</p> + +<p>I soon turned in again, wrapped myself up, and slept +soundly for some hours. When I awoke, it was broad +daylight; the sun was shining in at the car windows; +and on looking out, I saw that we were crossing a broad<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span> +plain, with mountains on either side of us. The conductor, +coming through the car, informs us that we +shall soon be at Humboldt, where there will be twenty +minutes' stoppage for breakfast. I find that we are now +422 miles on our way, and that during the night we +have crossed the great sage-covered Nevada Desert, +on which so many travellers left their bones to bleach +in the days of the overland journey to California, but +which is now so rapidly and safely traversed by means +of this railway. The train draws up at Humboldt at +seven in the morning; and on descending, I find a +large, well-appointed refreshment room, with the tables +ready laid; and a tempting array of hot tea and coffee, +bacon, steaks, eggs, and other eatables. "I guess" I +had my full dollar's worth out of that Humboldt +establishment—a "regular square meal," to quote the +language of the conductor.</p> + +<p>We mount again, and are off across the high plains. +The sage-brush is the only vegetation to be seen, interspersed +here and there with large beds of alkali, on +which not even sage-brush will grow. The sage country +extends from Wadsworth to Battle Mount Station, a +distance of about two hundred miles. Only occasionally, +by the river-sides, near the station, small +patches of cultivated land are to be seen; but, generally +speaking, the country is barren, and will ever +remain so. We are still nearly 5000 feet above the +level of the sea. There is no longer any snow on +the ground alongside us, but the mountains within +sight are all covered. Though the day is bright and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span> +sunshiny, and the inside of the car warm, with the +stove always full of blazing wood or coke, the air +outside is cold, sharp, and nipping.</p> + +<p>At Battle Mount—so called because of a severe +engagement which occurred here some years since +between the Indians and the white settlers—the plains +begin to narrow, and the mountains to close in again +upon the track. Here I saw for the first time a +number of Shoshonie Indians—the original natives of +the country—their faces painted red, and their coarse +black hair hanging down over their shoulders. Their +squaws, who carried their papooses in shawls slung +over their backs, came alongside the train to beg +money from the passengers. The Indian men seemed +to be of a very low type—not for a moment to be compared +with the splendid Maoris of New Zealand. The +only fine tribe of Indians left, are said to be the Sioux; +and these are fast dying out. In the struggle of races +for life, savages nowhere seem to have the slightest +chance when they come in contact with what are +called "civilized" men. If they are not destroyed by +our diseases or our drink, they are by our weapons.</p> + +<p>We are now running along the banks of the sluggish +Humboldt river, up to almost its source in the +mountains near the head of the Great Salt Lake. We +cross the winding river from time to time on trestle-bridges; +and soon we are in amongst the mountains +again, penetrating a gorge, where the track is overhung +by lofty bluffs; and climbing up the heights, +we shortly leave the river, foaming in its bed, far<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span> +beneath us. Steeper and higher rise the sides of the +gorge, until suddenly when we round a curve in the +cañon, I see the Devil's Peak, a large jagged mass +of dark-brown rock, which, rising perpendicularly, +breaks up into many points, the highest towering majestically +above us to a height of 1400 feet above the +level of the track. This is what is called the "Ten +Mile Cañon;" and the bold scenery continues until we +emerge from the top of the gorge. At last we are in +the open sunlight again, and shortly after we draw up +at the Elko station.</p> + +<p>We are now evidently drawing near a better peopled +district than that we have lately passed through. +Two heavy stage coaches are drawn up alongside +the track, to take passengers to Hamilton and Treasure +City in the White Pine silver-mining district, +about 126 miles distant. A long team of mules +stand laden with goods, destined for the diggers of +the same district. Elko is "not much of a place," +though I should not wonder if it is called a "City" +here. It mostly consists of what in Victoria would be +called shanties—huts built of wood and canvas—some +of the larger of them being labelled "Saloon," "Eating-house," +"Drug-store," "Paint-shop," and such like. +If one might judge by the number of people thronging +the drinking-houses, the place may be pronounced +prosperous.</p> + +<p>Our course now lies through valleys, which look +more fertile, and are certainly much more pleasant to +pass along than those dreary Nevada plains. The sun<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span> +goes down on my second day in the train; as we are +traversing a fine valley with rolling hills on either +side. The ground again becomes thickly covered with +snow, and I find we are again ascending a steepish +grade, rising a thousand feet in a distance of about +ninety miles, where we again reach a total altitude of +6180 feet above the sea.</p> + +<p>At six next morning, I found we had reached Ogden +in the territory of Utah. During the night we had +passed "The Great American Desert," extending over +an area of sixty square miles—an utterly blasted place—so +that I missed nothing by passing over it wrapped +in sleep and rugs. The country about Ogden is well-cultivated +and pleasant looking. Ogden itself is a +busy place, being the terminus of the Central Pacific +Railroad, and the junction for trains running down to +Salt Lake City. From this point the Union Pacific +commences, and runs eastward as far as Omaha.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXV" id="CHAPTER_XXV"></a>CHAPTER XXV.</h2> + +<h3>ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Start by Train For Omaha</span>—<span class="smcap">My Fellow-Passengers</span>—<span class="smcap">Passage +through the Devil's Gate</span>—<span class="smcap">Weber Cañon</span>—<span class="smcap">Fantastic Rocks</span>—"<span class="smcap">Thousand +Mile Tree</span>"—<span class="smcap">Echo Cañon</span>—<span class="smcap">More Trestle-Bridges</span>—<span class="smcap">Sunset +amidst the Bluffs</span>—<span class="smcap">A Wintry Night by +Rail</span>—<span class="smcap">Snow-Fences and Snow-Sheds</span>—<span class="smcap">Laramie City</span>—<span class="smcap">Red +Buttes</span>—<span class="smcap">The Summit at Sherman</span>—<span class="smcap">Cheyenne City</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Western Prairie in Winter</span>—<span class="smcap">Prairie Dog City</span>—<span class="smcap">The Valley +of the Platte</span>—<span class="smcap">Grand Island</span>—<span class="smcap">Cross the North Fork of +the Platte</span>—<span class="smcap">Arrival in Omaha</span>.</p> + + +<p>I decided not to break the journey by visiting Utah—about +which so much has already been written—but +to go straight on to Omaha; and I accordingly +took my place in the train about to start eastward. +Here I encountered quite a new phase of American +railroad society. One of my fellow-passengers was a +quack doctor, who contemplated depositing himself +in the first populous place he came to on the track-side, +for the purpose of picking up some "'tarnal red +cents." A colonel and a corporal in the American +army were on their way home from some post in the +Far West, where they had been to keep the Indians in +order. There were several young commercial travellers, +some lucky men returning from the silver-mines in +Idaho, a steward of one of the Pacific mail steamers<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span> +returning to England, and an iron-moulder with his +wife and child on their way to Chicago.</p> + +<p>The train soon started, and for some miles we passed +through a well-cultivated country, divided into fields +and orchards, looking pretty even under the thick +snow, and reminding me of the vales of Kent. +But we very soon left the cultivated land behind us, +and were again in amongst the mountain gorges. I +got out on to the platform to look around me, and, +though the piercing cold rather chilled my pleasure, +I could not help enjoying the wonderful scenery that +we passed through during the next three hours. We +are now entering the Wahsatch Mountains by the +grand chasm called the Devil's Gate. We cross a +trestle-bridge fifty feet above the torrent which boils +beneath; and through the black, frowning rocks that +guard the pass, I catch the last glimpse of the open +sunlit plain below.</p> + +<p>We are now within the wild Weber Cañon, and +the scene is changing every moment. On the right, we +pass a most wonderful sight, the Devil's slide. Two +ridges of grey rock stand some ten feet out from the +snow and brushwood; and they run parallel to each +other for about 150 feet, right away up the mountain +side. For a distance of thirty-five miles we run along +the dark, deep cleft, the rocks assuming all sorts of +fantastic shapes; and the river Weber running almost +immediately beneath us, fretting and raging against the +obstacles in its course. Sometimes the valley widens +out a little, but again to force us against a cliff,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span> +where the road has been hewn out of the solid bluff. +In the cañon we pass a pine-tree standing close to +the track, with a large board hung upon it bearing +the words, "1000 miles from Omaha." It is hence +named the "Thousand Mile Tree." We have all that +long way before us to travel on this Union Pacific +Railway.</p> + +<p>At last we emerge from Weber Cañon, and pull up +at Echo City, a small place, chiefly inhabited by railway +employés. We start again, and are soon plunged +amidst red, rocky bluffs, more fantastic than any we +have yet passed. We pass the Mormon fortifications +at a place where a precipitous rock overhangs the +narrowing cañon. Here, on the top of the rock, a +thousand feet above us, are piled huge stones, placed +close to the brink of the precipice: once ready to be +hurled down upon the foes of Mormonism—the army +sent out against them in 1857. The stones were never +used, and are to be seen there yet. The rocks in the +cañon are of a different colour from those we passed +an hour ago. The shapes that they take are wonderful. +Now I could fancy that I saw a beautiful +cathedral, with spires and windows; then a castle, +battlements and bastions, all complete; and more than +one amphitheatre fit for a Cæsar to have held his sports +in. What could be more striking than these great +ragged masses of red rock, thrown one upon another, +and mounting up so high above us? Such fantastical +and curious shapes the weather-worn stone had taken! +Pillars, columns, domes, arches, followed one another<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span> +in quick succession. Bounding a corner, a huge circle +of rocks comes into sight, rising story upon story. +There, perched upon the top of the rising ground, is +a natural castle, complete with gateway and windows. +Indeed, the hour passed quickly, in spite of the cold, and +I felt myself to have been in fairyland for the time. +The whole seemed to be some wild dream. But dream +it could not be. There was the magnificence of the +solid reality—pile upon pile of the solid rock frowning +down upon me; great boulders thrown together by +some giant force; perpendicular heights, time-worn +and battered by the elements. All combined to produce +in me a feeling of the utmost wonder and +astonishment.</p> + +<p>Emerging from Echo Cañon and the Castle Rocks, +we enter a milder valley, where we crawl over a trestle-bridge +450 feet long and 75 feet high. Shortly after +passing Wahsatch Station, we cross the Aspen Summit +and reach an opener country. Since we left Ogden, +we have, in a distance of ninety-three miles, climbed +an ascent of 2500 feet, and are now in a region of frost +and snow. After another hour's travelling, the character +of the scenery again changes, and it becomes +more rugged and broken. The line crosses the Bear +River on another trestle-bridge 600 feet long; and +following the valley, we then strike across the higher +ground to the head of Ham's Fork, down which we +descend, following the valley as far as Bryan or +Black's Fork, 171 miles from Ogden.</p> + +<p>As the day is drawing to a close, I take a last look<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span> +upon the scene outside before turning in for the night. +The sun is setting in the west, illuminating with its +last rays the red sandstone bluffs; the light contrasting +with the deep-blue sky overhead, and presenting a +most novel and beautiful effect. We are now traversing +a rolling desert, sometimes whirling round a +bluff in our rapid descent, or crossing a dry water-course +on trestles, the features of the scenery every +moment changing. Then I would catch a glimpse of +the broken, rolling prairies in the distance, covered +with snow; and anon we were rounding another precipitous +bluff. The red of the sunlight grows dull +against the blue sky, until night gradually wraps +the scene in her mantle of grey. Then the moon +comes out with her silvery light, and reveals new +features of wondrous wildness and beauty. I stood for +hours leaning on the rail of the car, gazing at the +fascinating vision, and was only reminded by the +growing coldness of the night that it was time to re-enter +the car and prepare for my night's rest.</p> + +<p>After warming myself by the stove, I arranged my +extemporised couch between the seats as before, but +was wakened up by the conductor, who took from me +a cushion more than was my due; so I had to spend +the rest of the night nodding on a box at the end of +the car. However, even the longest and most comfortless +night will come to an end; and when at last the +morning broke, I went out to ascertain whereabouts we +were. I found that it had snowed heavily during the +night; and we now seemed to be in a much colder and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span> +more desolate country. The wind felt dreadfully keen +as I stood on the car platform and looked about; the +dry snow whisking up from the track as the train +rushed along. The fine particles somehow got inside +the thickest comforter and wrapper, and penetrated +everywhere. So light and fine were the particles that +they seemed to be like thick hoar-frost blowing through +the air.</p> + +<p>We have, I observe, a snow-plough fixed on the front +of the engine; and, from the look of the weather, it +would appear as if we should have abundant use for it +yet. Snow-fences and snow-sheds are numerous along +the line we are traversing, for the purpose of preventing +the cuts being drifted up by the snow. At first, I +could not quite make out the nature of these fences, +standing about ten yards from the track, and in some +parts extending for miles. They are constructed of +woodwork, and are so made as to be capable of being +moved from place to place, according as the snow falls +thick or is drifting. That is where the road is on a +level, with perhaps an opening amidst the rolling hills +on one side or the other; but when we pass through +a cutting we are protected by a snow-shed, usually +built of boards supported on poles.</p> + +<p>At Laramie City, we stop for breakfast. The name +of "City" is given to several little collections of +houses along the line. I observe that the writer of +the 'Trans-Continental Guide-book' goes almost into +fits when describing the glories of these "Cities," +which, when we come up to them, prove to be little<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span> +more than so many clusters of sheds. I was not, therefore, +prepared to expect much from the City of +Laramie; and the more so as I knew that but a few +years since the original Fort Laramie consisted of +only a quadrangular enclosure inhabited by trappers, +who had established it for trading purposes with +the Indians. I was accordingly somewhat surprised to +find that the modern Laramie had suddenly shot up +into a place of some population and importance. The +streets are broad and well laid out; the houses are +numerous, and some of them large and substantial. +The place is already provided with schools, hotels, +banks, and a newspaper. The Railway Company have +some good substantial shops here, built of stone; and +they have also provided a very commodious hospital +for the use of their employés when injured or sick—an +example that might be followed with advantage in +places of even greater importance.</p> + +<p>After a stoppage of about half an hour, we were again +careering up-hill past Fort Saunders and the Red +Buttes, the latter so-called from the bold red sandstone +bluffs, in some places a thousand feet high, which bound +the track on our right. Then still up-hill to Harney, +beyond which we cross Dale Creek Bridge—a wonderful +structure, 650 feet long and 126 feet high, spanning +the creek from bluff to bluff. Looking down through +the interstices of the wooden road, what a distance the +thread of water in the hollow seemed to be below us!</p> + +<p>At Sherman, some two hours from Laramie, we +arrived at the Summit of the Rocky Mountain ridge,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span> +where we reached the altitude of about 8400 feet above +the sea-level. Of course it was very cold, hill and +dale being covered with snow as far as the eye could +reach. Now we rush rapidly down-hill, the brakes +screwed tightly down, the cars whizzing round the +curves, and making the snow fly past in clouds. We +have now crossed the backbone of the continent, and +are speeding on towards the settled and populous +country in the East.</p> + +<p>At Cheyenne, we have another stoppage for refreshment. +This is one of the cities with which our guidebook +writer falls into ecstasies. It is "The Magic +City of the Plains"—a place of which it "requires +neither a prophet nor the son of a prophet to enumerate +its resources or predict its future!" Yet Cheyenne is +already a place of importance, and likely to become +still more so,—being situated at the junction with the +line to Denver, which runs along the rich and lovely +valley of the Colorado. Its population of 8000 seems +very large for a place that so short a time ago was +merely the haunt of Red Indians. Already it has +manufactures, warehouses, wharves, and stores of considerable +magnitude; with all the usual appurtenances +of a place of traffic and business.</p> + +<p>Before leaving Cheyenne, I invested in some hung +buffalo steak for consumption at intervals between meals. +It is rather tough and salt,—something like Hamburg +beef; but seasoned with hunger, and with the appetite +sharpened by the cold and frost of these high regions, +the hung buffalo proved useful and nutritious.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span></p> + +<p>For several hundred miles, our track lay across the +prairie—monotonous, and comparatively uninteresting +now, in its covering of white—but in early summer +clad in lively green and carpeted with flowers. I read +that this fine cultivable well-watered country extends +seven hundred miles north and south, along the eastern +base of the Rocky Mountains, with an average width +of two hundred miles. It is said to be amongst the +finest grazing land in the world, with pasturage for +millions of cattle and sheep.</p> + +<p>Shortly after passing Antelope Station, the track +skirts the "Prairie Dog City," which I knew at once +by its singular appearance. It consists of hundreds of +little mounds of soil, raised about a foot and a half +from the ground. There were, however, no dogs about +at the time. The biting cold had doubtless sent them +within doors. Indeed, I saw no wild animals on my +journey across the continent, excepting only some black +antelopes with white faces, that I saw on the plains +near this Prairie Dog City.</p> + +<p>For a distance of more than five hundred miles—from +leaving Cheyenne until our arrival in Omaha—the +railway held along the left bank of the Lodge +Pole Creek, then along the South Fork or Platte +river, and finally along the main Platte river down to +near its junction with the Missouri. When I went to +sleep on the night of the 11th of February—my fourth +night in the railway train—we were travelling through +the level prairie; and when I woke up on the following +morning, I found we were on the prairie still.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span></p> + +<p>At seven in the morning, we halted at the station of +Grand Island—so called from the largest island in the +Platte river, near at hand. Here I had breakfast, and +a good wash in ice-cold water. Although the snow is +heavier than ever, the climate seems already milder. +Yet it is very different indeed from the sweltering heat +of Honolulu only some twelve days ago. At about +10 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, we bid adieu to the uninhabited prairie—though +doubtless before many years are over, it will be +covered with farms and homesteads—and approached +the fringe of the settled country; patches of cultivated +land and the log huts of the settlers beginning to show +themselves here and there alongside the track.</p> + +<p>Some eighty miles from Omaha, we cross the north +fork of the Platte river over one of the usual long +timber bridges on piles,—and continue to skirt the +north bank of the Great Platte,—certainly a very +remarkable river, being in some places three-quarters +of a mile broad, with an average depth of only six +inches! At length, on the afternoon of the fifth day, +the engine gives a low whistle, and we find ourselves +gliding into the station at Omaha.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVI" id="CHAPTER_XXVI"></a>CHAPTER XXVI.</h2> + +<h3>OMAHA TO CHICAGO.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Omaha Terminus</span>—<span class="smcap">Cross the Missouri</span>—<span class="smcap">Council Bluffs</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Forest</span>—<span class="smcap">Cross the Mississippi</span>—<span class="smcap">The Cultivated Prairie</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Farmsteads and Villages</span>—<span class="smcap">Approach to Chicago</span>—<span class="smcap">The +City of Chicago</span>—<span class="smcap">Enterprise of its Men</span>—<span class="smcap">The Water Tunnels +under Lake Michigan</span>—<span class="smcap">Tunnels under the River Chicago</span>—<span class="smcap">Union +of Lake Michigan with the Mississippi</span>—<span class="smcap">Description +of the Streets and Buildings of Chicago</span>—<span class="smcap">Pigs and Corn</span>—<span class="smcap">The +Avenue</span>—<span class="smcap">Sleighing</span>—<span class="smcap">Theatres and Churches</span>.</p> + + +<p>I have not much to tell about Omaha, for I did not +make any long stay in the place, being anxious to get +on and finish my journey. It was now my fifth day in +the train, having come a distance of 1912 miles from +San Francisco; and I had still another twenty-four +hours' travel before me to Chicago. There was nothing +to detain me in Omaha. It is like all places suddenly +made by railway, full of bustle and business, but by +no means picturesque. How can it be? The city is +only seventeen years old. Its principal buildings are +manufactories, breweries, warehouses, and hotels.</p> + +<p>Omaha has been made by the fact of its having +been fixed upon as the terminus of the Union Pacific +Railroad, and by its convenient position on the great +Missouri river. It occupies a sloping upland on the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span> +right bank, about fifty feet above the level of the +stream; and behind it stretches the great Prairie +country we have just traversed. On the opposite bank +of the Missouri stands Council Bluffs, from which +various railroad lines diverge north, south, and east, +to all parts of the Union. It is probable, therefore, +that before many years have passed, big though Omaha +may now be—and it already contains 20,000 inhabitants—the +advantages of its position will tend greatly to +swell its population, and perhaps to render it in course +of time one of the biggest cities of the West.</p> + +<p class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a href="images/image248-lg.png"> +<img src="images/image248.png" width="600" height="314" alt="(Map of Atlantic and Pacific Railways) Reduced from +a Map in Mr. Rae's" title="(Map of Atlantic and Pacific Railways) Reduced from +a Map in Mr. Rae's" /></a> +<span class="caption">(Map of Atlantic and Pacific Railways) <i>Reduced from +a Map in Mr. Rae's</i></span> +</p> + +<p>Having arranged to proceed onwards to Chicago by +the North-Western line, I gave up my baggage in +exchange for the usual check, and took my place +in the train. We rolled down a steepish incline, on +to the "mighty Missouri," which we crossed upon a +bridge of boats. I should not have known that I was +upon a deep and rapid river, but for the huge flat-bottomed +boats that I saw lying frozen in along the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span> +banks. It was easy to mistake the enormous breadth +of ice for a wide field covered with snow. As we +proceeded across we met numbers of sledges, coaches, +and omnibuses driving over the ice along a track made +in the deep snow not far from our bridge.</p> + +<p class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a href="images/image249-lg.png"> +<img src="images/image249.png" width="600" height="311" alt="'Westward by Rail.' Longmans. 1871." title="'Westward by Rail.' Longmans. 1871." /> +</a><span class="caption">'<i>Westward by Rail</i>.' <i>Longmans</i>. 1871.</span> +</p> + +<p>After passing through Council Bluffs, we soon lost +sight of the town and its suburbs, and were again in +the country. But how different the prospect from the +car window, compared with the bare and unsettled +prairies which we had traversed for so many hundred +miles west of Omaha! Now, thick woods extend on +both sides of the track, with an occasional cleared +space for a township, where we stop to take up and set +down passengers. But I shall not proceed further with +my description of winter scenery as viewed from a +passing railway train. Indeed, I fear that my descriptions +heretofore, though rapid, must be felt somewhat +monotonous, for which I crave the reader's forgiveness.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span></p> + +<p>I spent my fifth night in the train pretty comfortably, +having contrived to makeup a tolerable berth. Shortly +after I awoke, we crossed the Mississippi on a splendid +bridge at Fulton. What a noble river it is! Here, +where it must be fifteen hundred miles from its mouth, +it seemed to me not less than a mile across. Like the +Missouri, however, it is now completely frozen over +and covered with thick snow.</p> + +<p>We are again passing through a prairie country, the +fertile land of upper Illinois, all well settled and cultivated. +We pass a succession of fine farms and farmsteads. +The fields are divided by rail fences; and in +some places stalks of maize peep up through the snow. +The pretty wooden houses are occasionally half hidden +by the snow-laden trees amidst which they stand. +These Illinois clusters of country-houses remind one +very much of England, they look so snug and homelike; +and they occupy a gently undulating country,—lovely, +no doubt, in summer time. But the small +towns we passed could never be mistaken for English. +They are laid out quite regularly, each house with +its little garden surrounding it; the broad streets being +planted with avenues of trees.</p> + +<p>The snow is lying very heavy on the ground; and +there are drifts we pass through full twenty feet deep +on either side the road. But the day is fine, the sky +is clear and blue, the sun shines brightly, and the +whole scene looks much more cheerful than the Rocky +Mountain region in the west.</p> + +<p>Very shortly, evidences appear of our approach to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span> +a considerable place. In fact, we are nearing Chicago. +But long before we reach it, we pass a succession of +pretty villas and country-houses, quite in the English +suburban style, with gardens, shrubberies, and hothouses. +These are the residences of the Chicago +merchants. The houses become more numerous, and +before long we are crossing streets and thoroughfares, +the engine snorting slowly along, and the great bell +ringing to warn all foot-passengers off the track.</p> + +<p>What an immense smoky place we have entered: +so different from the pure snow-white prairie country +we have passed. It looks just like another Manchester. +But I suspect we have as yet traversed only the manufacturing +part of the city, as the only buildings heretofore +visible are small dwelling-houses and manufactories. +At length we pull up in the station, and find +ourselves safely landed in Chicago.</p> + +<p>Oh, the luxury of a good wash after a continuous +journey of two thousand four hundred miles by rail! +What a blessing cold water is, did we but know it. +The luxury, also, of taking off one's clothes to sleep +in a bed, after five nights' rolling about in railway +cars,—that also is a thing to be enjoyed once in a +lifetime! But, for the sake of the pleasure, I confess +I have no particular desire to repeat the process.</p> + +<p>And now for the wonders of Chicago. It is really +a place worth going a long way to see. It exhibits +the enterprise of the American people in its most +striking light. Such immense blocks of buildings +forming fine broad streets, such magnificent wharves<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span> +and warehouses, such splendid shops, such handsome +churches, and such elegant public buildings! One +can scarcely believe that all this has been the work +of little more than thirty years.</p> + +<p>It is true, the situation of Chicago at the head of +Lake Michigan, with a great fertile country behind it, +has done much for the place; but without the <i>men</i>, +Chicago would have been nothing. It is human industry +and energy that have made it what it is. Nothing +seems too bold or difficult for the enterprise of Chicago +men. One of their most daring but successful feats +was in altering the foundation level of the city. It +was found that the business quarter was laid too low—that +it was damp, and could not be properly drained. +It was determined to raise the whole quarter bodily +from six to eight feet higher! And the extraordinary +feat was accomplished with the help of screw-jacks, +safely and satisfactorily.</p> + +<p>With the growth of population—and its increase +was most rapid (from 4000 persons in 1837 to about +350,000 at the present time)—the difficulty of obtaining +pure water steadily increased. There was pure water +enough in the lake outside, but along shore it was +so polluted by the sewage that it could not be used +with safety. Two methods were adopted to remedy +this evil. One was, to make Artesian wells 700 feet +deep, which yield about a million gallons of pure water +per day; but another, and much bolder scheme, was +undertaken, that of carrying a tunnel under the bed +of the lake, two miles out, into perfectly pure water;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span> +and this work was successfully accomplished and completed +on the 25th of March, 1867, when the water +was let into the tunnel to flow through the pipes and +quadrants of the city. Thus 57 million gallons of +water per day could be supplied to the inhabitants.</p> + +<p>Another important and daring work was that involved +in carrying the traffic of the streets from one +side of the Chicago river (which flows through the +city) to the other, without the interference of bridges. +This was accomplished by means of tunnels constructed +beneath the bed of the river. The first tunnel was +carried across from Washington Street to the other +side some years since; it was arched with brick, floored +with timber, and lighted with gas. The second, lower +down the same river, was still in progress at the period +of my visit to the city in March last, and is not yet +completed. By means of these tunnels the traffic of +the streets will be sufficiently accommodated, without +any interruption by the traffic of the river,—large +ships proceeding directly up to the wharves above to +load and unload their cargoes.</p> + +<p>But the boldest project of all remains to be mentioned. +It is neither more nor less than the cutting +down of the limestone ridge which intervenes between +the head-waters of the River Chicago and those of the +River Illinois, which flows into the Mississippi. The +water supply being still found insufficient, the carrying +out of a second tunnel into deep water under the bed +of the lake was projected. It then occurred to the +Chicago engineers that a more simple method would<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span> +be, instead of going out into the lake for the pure +water, to make the pure water come to them. The +sewage-laden stream of the Chicago river now flowed +north into the lake; would it not be practicable, by +cutting down the level inland, to make it flow south, +and thus bring the pure water of the lake in an +abundant stream past their very doors?</p> + +<p>This scheme has actually been carried out! The +work was in progress while I was there, and I observe +that it has since been completed. The limestone +plateau to the south of Chicago has been cut down +at a cost of about three millions of dollars; and an +abundant supply of pure water has thus been secured +to the town for ever. But the cutting of this artificial +river for the purpose of water supply has opened up +another and a much larger question. It is, whether by +sufficiently deepening the bed, a channel may not be +formed for large ocean-going ships, so that Chicago +may be placed in direct water communication with the +Gulf of Mexico, as it now is with the Gulf of St. Lawrence. +Should this project, which was freely spoken +of when I was at Chicago, be carried out, it may lead +to very important consequences. While it may have +the effect of greatly promoting the prosperity of +Chicago, it may also have an altogether different +result. "The letting out of waters" is not always a +safe thing; and the turning of the stream, or any considerable +part of the stream which now passes over +the falls of Niagara, into the bed of the Mississippi—whose +swollen waters are sometimes found sufficiently<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span> +unmanageable as it is—might have a very extraordinary +and even startling effect upon the low-lying +regions at the mouth of that great river. But this is +a point that must be left for geologists and engineers to +speculate about and to settle.</p> + +<p>Shortly after my arrival in Chicago, I went out +for a wander in the streets. I was accompanied by +the Hotel "tout" who soon gave me his history. He +had been a captain in the English army, had run +through all his money, and come here to make more. +He had many reminiscences to relate of his huntings in +Leicestershire, of his life in the army, of his foolish +gamblings, of his ups and downs in America, and his +present prospects. Nothing daunted by his mishaps, +he was still full of hope. He was an agent for railways, +agent for a billiard-table manufacturer and for several +patents, and believed he should soon be a rich man +again. But no one, he said, had any chance in +Chicago, unless he was prepared to work, and to work +hard. "A man," he observed, "must have his eyes +peeled to make money; as for the lazy man, he hasn't +the ghost of a chance here."</p> + +<p>My guide took me along the principal streets, which +were full of traffic and bustle, the men evidently intent +upon business, pushing on, looking neither to the right +hand nor the left. The streets are mostly stone-paved, +and, in spite of the heavy snow which has fallen, they +are clean and well kept. We passed the City Hall, the +Chamber of Commerce, and the Post Office—all fine +buildings. In the principal streets, the houses are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span> +five stories high, with handsome marble fronts. The +office of the 'Chicago Tribune,' situated at the corner +of one of the chief thoroughfares, is a splendid pile +with a spacious corner entrance. The Potter Palmer +block, chiefly occupied as a gigantic draper's shop—here +called a Dry Goods' Store—is an immense pile +of buildings, with massive marble front handsomely +carved. But the building which promises shortly +to overtop all others in Chicago, is the Pacific Hotel, +now in course of erection,—an enormous structure, +covering an acre and a half of ground, with a +frontage of 325 feet, and a height of 104 feet. It is +expected to be the largest and finest building in the +city, until something else is projected to surpass and +excel it.</p> + +<p>In my progress through the streets I came upon +two huge steam cranes at work, hoisting up stuff from +a great depth below. I was told that this was the +second tunnel in course of construction underneath +the bed of the river to enable the traffic to pass across +without the necessity for bridges. The stream over +the tunnel was busy with shipping. In one street +I passed a huge pile of dead pigs in front of a sausage +shop. They go in pigs and come out sausages. Pork +is one of the great staples of the place; the number of +pigs slaughtered in Chicago being something enormous. +The pig-butcheries and pork stores are among +the largest buildings in the city. My guide assures +me that at least a pig a second is killed and dressed in +Chicago all the year through. Another street was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span> +occupied by large stores of grain, fruit, and produce of +all kinds. The pathways were filled with farmers and +grain brokers, settling bargains and doing business. +And yet it was not market day, when the streets are +far more crowded and full of bustle.</p> + +<p>Some idea of the enormous amount of business in +grain done in Chicago may be formed from the fact +that in one year, 1868, sixty-eight million bushels of +grain were shipped from its wharves. It is the centre +of the grain trade of the States; lines of railway +concentre upon it from all parts of the interior; and, +by means of shipping, the produce is exported to the +Eastern States, to Great Britain, or to any other part +of the world where it is needed.</p> + +<p>The street cars go jingling along with their heavy +loads of passengers. A continual stream of people +keeps coming and going. There are many young +ladies afoot, doing their shopping; enveloped in furs, +and some with white scarfs—or "clouds" as they +are called—round their heads. Loud advertisements, +of all colours, shapes, and sizes, abound on every side. +Pea-nut sellers at their stands on the pavement invite +the passers-by to purchase, announcing that they roast +fresh every half-hour. What amused me, in one of +the by-streets from which the frozen snow had not +been removed, was seeing a number of boys skating +along at full speed.</p> + +<p>Fronting the lake is the fashionable avenue of the +city. Here, nice detached houses range along the +broad road for miles. Trees shade the carriage-way,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span> +which in summer must look beautiful. Now all is +covered with hard-frozen snow, over which the sleigh-bells +sound merrily as the teams come dashing along. +Here comes a little cutter with a pretty black pony, +which trots saucily past, and is followed by a grand +double-seated sleigh drawn by three splendid greys. +Other sleighs, built for lightness and speed, are drawn +by fast-trotting horses, in which the Americans take so +much delight. The object of most of the young men +who are out sleighing seems to be to pass the sleigh in +front of them, so that some very smart racing is usually +to be seen along the Avenue drive.</p> + +<p>As might be expected from the extent and wealth +of its population, Chicago is well supplied with places +of amusement. I observe that Christine Nilsson is +here at present, and she is an immense favourite. +There are also many handsome stone churches in +the city, which add much to the fine appearance of +the place. But I had neither time to visit the theatres +nor the churches, as my time in Chicago was already +up, and I, accordingly, made arrangements for pursuing +my journey eastward.<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a></p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> It will be observed that the +above summary description applies +to Chicago as it was seen +by the writer in February last. +While these sheets are passing +through the press, the appalling +intelligence has arrived from +America that the magnificent city +has been almost entirely destroyed +by fire!</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span></p> + +<p class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/image287.jpg" width="600" height="379" alt="Niagara Falls—American Side." title="Niagara Falls—American Side." /> +<span class="caption">Niagara Falls—American Side.</span> +</p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVII" id="CHAPTER_XXVII"></a>CHAPTER XXVII.</h2> + +<h3>CHICAGO TO NEW YORK.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Leave Chicago</span>—<span class="smcap">The Ice Harvest</span>—<span class="smcap">Michigan City</span>—<span class="smcap">The Forest</span>—<span class="smcap">A +Railway Smashed</span>—<span class="smcap">Kalamazoo</span>—<span class="smcap">Detroit</span>—<span class="smcap">Crossing into +Canada</span>—<span class="smcap">American Manners</span>—<span class="smcap">Roebling's Suspension Bridge</span>—<span class="smcap">Niagara +Falls in Winter</span>—<span class="smcap">Goat Island</span>—<span class="smcap">The American +Fall</span>—<span class="smcap">The Great Horse-shoe Fall</span>—<span class="smcap">The Rapids from the +Lovers' Seat</span>—<span class="smcap">American Cousins</span>—<span class="smcap">Rochester</span>—<span class="smcap">New York</span>—<span class="smcap">A +Catastrophe</span>—<span class="smcap">Return Home</span>.</p> + + +<p>For some distance out of Chicago, the railway runs +alongside the fine avenue fronting Lake Michigan. +We pass a long succession of villas amidst their gardens +and shrubberies, now white with snow and frost. Then +we cross an inlet on a timber viaduct laid on piles +driven into the bed of the lake. The ice at some parts +is thrown up irregularly in waves, and presents a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span> +strange aspect. It looks as if it had been frozen solid +in one moment at a time when the wind was blowing +pretty hard.</p> + +<p>At another part, where the ice is smoother, men were +getting in the ice harvest between us and the shore. +The snow is first cleared from the surface by means of +a snow plane. Then the plough, drawn by a horse, +with a man guiding the sharp steel cutter, makes a +deep groove into the ice. These grooves are again +crossed by others at right angles, until the whole of +the surface intended to be gathered in is divided into +sections of about four feet square. When that is done, +several of the first blocks taken out are detached by +means of hand-saws; after which the remainder are +easily broken off with crow-bars. The blocks are then +stored in the large ice-houses on shore, several of which +are so large as to be each capable of holding some +20,000 tons of ice.</p> + +<p>The consumption of ice in the States is enormous. +Every one takes ice in their water, in winter as well +as in summer. Even the commonest sort of people +consume it largely; and they send round to the store +for ten cents' worth of ice, just as our people send +round to the nearest public for six penny worth of beer. +I have heard Americans who have been in London +complain of the scarcity of ice with us, and the parsimonious +way in which it is used. But then we have +not the enormous natural stores of ice close to our +doors, as they have at Chicago and many other of the +large American towns.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span></p> + +<p>Meanwhile we have skirted the shores of the lake, +and shot into the country, the snow lying deep in the +fields, in some places quite covering the tops of the +fences. After passing through a rather thickly-wooded +country, we came to Michigan city, which stands close +to the lake, with a river flowing past it, on which +large barges piled high with timber are now completely +frozen up. What a pretty place this Michigan must +be in summer time, when the trees which line the +streets, and all the shady gardens about it, are clad +in green. Even now the town has a brisk, cheerful +look. The sleighs are running merrily over the snow, +and the omnibuses glide smoothly along the streets on +their "runners."</p> + +<p>Taking one last look of the great inland sea, we +struck across the broad peninsula formed by Lake +Michigan on one side and Lake Huron on the other, +to the town of Detroit. The country was very thickly +wooded in some places,—apparently the remains of the +old primeval forest. Yet there were towns and villages +at frequent intervals along the route. The deer have +not yet been extirpated, for often and again I saw their +tracks in the snow along the banks of the railway.</p> + +<p>At one part of the road the speed of the train +slackened, and the engine moved along slowly, whistling +as it went. What was wrong? I got out on to the +platform to see. We soon came up to a smashed train; +frames of cars, wrecks of cases, wheels, axles, and <i>débris</i>, +lying promiscuously tumbled together. I asked the +conductor what had happened? He answered quite<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span> +coolly, "Guess the express ran into the goods train!" +It looked very much like it!</p> + +<p>In the course of the day we passed several small +manufacturing towns. It seemed so odd, when we +appeared as if travelling through the back woods, to +see above the trees, not far off, a tall red chimney, +where not long before we had passed the track of the +wild deer. There was one very large manufactory—so +large that it had a special branch to itself connecting +it with the main track—at a place called Kalamazoo, +reminding one of Red Indians and war trails over this +ground not so very long ago. The town of Kalamazoo +itself is a large and busy place: who knows but that +it may contain the embryo of some future Leeds or +Manchester?</p> + +<p>It was dark when the train reached Detroit, where +we had to cross the river which runs between Lake +St. Clair and Lake Erie by ferry-boat into Canada. The +street being dark, I missed my way, and at last found +myself on the edge of the water when I least expected +it. I got on board just as the last bell was sounding +before the boat put off from the quay. I then had +my baggage checked on to Niagara, a custom-house +officer on board marking all the pieces intended only +to pass through Canada, thereby avoiding examination. +All the arrangements of the American railways +with respect to luggage seem to me excellent, and calculated +greatly to promote the convenience of the +travelling public.</p> + +<p>We were not more than a quarter of an hour on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span> +board the ferry-boat, during which I found time to +lay in a good supper in the splendid saloon occupying +the upper story of the vessel. Arrived at the Canadian +side, there was a general rush to the train; and the +carriages were soon filled. There were great complaints +amongst some of the passengers that the Pullman's +cars were all full, and that no beds were to +be had; there being usually a considerable run upon +these convenient berths, especially in the depth of +winter.</p> + +<p>My next neighbour during the night was a very +pleasant gentleman—an American. I must here confess +to the agreeable disappointment I have experienced +with respect to the Americans I have hitherto +come in contact with. I have as yet met with no +specimens of the typical Yankee depicted by satirists +and novelists. In my innocence I expected to be asked +in the cars such questions as "I guess you're a Britisher, +Sir?" "Where do you come from, Stranger?" +"Where are you going to, Sir?" "What are you going +to do when you get there?" and such like. It is true +that at San Francisco I encountered a few of such +questions, but the persons who put them were for the +most part only hotel touters. Among the Americans +of about my own condition with whom I travelled, +I met with nothing but politeness and civility. I will +go further, and say that the generality of Americans +are more ready to volunteer a kindness than is usual +in England. They are always ready to answer a +question, to offer a paper, to share a rug, or perhaps<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span> +tender a cigar. They are generally easy in manner, +yet unobtrusive. I will also add, that so far as my +experience goes, the average intelligence of young +men in America is considerably higher than it is in +England. They are better educated and better informed; +and I met few or none who were not able +to enter into any topic of general conversation, and +pursue it pleasantly.</p> + +<p>I saw but little of Canada, for I passed through +what is called the "London district" of it in the +night. It was about four in the morning when the +train reached the suspension bridge which crosses from +Canada into the States, about a mile and a half below +the Falls of Niagara. We were soon upon the bridge,—a +light, airy-looking structure, made principally of +strong wire,—and I was out upon the carriage platform, +looking down into the gorge below. It was +bright moonlight, so that I could see well about me. +There were the snow-covered cliffs on either side, and +the wide rift between them two hundred and fifty feet +deep, in the bottom of which ran the river at a speed +of about thirty miles an hour. It almost made the +head dizzy to look down. But we were soon across +the bridge, and on solid land again. We were already +within hearing of the great roar of the Falls, not +unlike the sound of an express train coming along the +track a little distance of. Shortly after, we reached +our terminus and its adjoining hotel, in which for a +time I forgot the Falls and everything else in a sound +sleep.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span></p> + +<p>The first thing that struck me on wakening was +the loud continuous roar near at hand. I was soon +up and out, and on my way to the Falls, seated in +a grand sleigh drawn by a pair of fine black horses. +Remember it was the dead of winter, the fifteenth of +February, not by any means the time of the year for +going about sight-seeing; and yet I fancy the sight +of Niagara in mid-winter must be quite as astonishing, +and perhaps even more picturesque, than at any other +season.</p> + +<p>Over the crisp snow, and through the clean little +town, the sleigh went flying, the roar of the water +growing louder as we neared the Falls. Soon we are +at the gates of a bridge, where a toll is charged for +admission to the island from which the great Falls +are best seen. Crossing the bridge, we reach the small +island, on which a large paper mill has been erected; +and I am pointed to a rock to which last winter a poor +fellow—beyond the reach of safety, though in sight—clung +for hours, until, unable to hold on any longer, +he was finally swept away down the torrent.</p> + +<p>We cross another small bridge, and are on the celebrated +Goat Island, which divides the great Canadian +from the smaller American fall. My driver first took +me to a point on the American side of this island, +from which a fine view is to be obtained. The sight +is certainly most wonderful. I walked down a steep +pathway slippery with ice, with steps cut here and +there in the rock, and suddenly found myself on the +brink of the precipice. Close to my left, the water was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span> +pouring down into a chasm a hundred and sixty +feet below, disappearing in a great blue cavern of +ice that seemed to swallow it up. By the continual +freezing of the spray, this great ice-cave reaches higher +and higher during winter time. Immense icicles, some +fifty feet long, hang down the sides of the rock immediately +over the precipice. The trees on the island +above were bent down with the weight of the frozen +spray, which hung in masses from their branches. The +blending of the ice and water far beneath my feet was +a remarkable sight. As the spray and mist from time +to time cleared off, I looked deep down into the dark +icy abyss, in which the water roared, and foamed, and +frothed, and boiled again.</p> + +<p>Then I went to the other side of the island, quite +fairy-like as it glistened in the sunlight, gemmed with +ice-drops, and clad in its garment of white. And there +I saw that astounding sight, the great Horse-shoe Fall, +seven hundred feet across, over which the enormous +mass of water pours with tremendous force. As the +water rolled over the cliff, it seemed to hang like +a green curtain in front of it, until it reached half-way +down; then gradually breaking, white streaks appeared +in it, broadening as they descended, until at length the +mighty mass sprouted in foam, and fell roaring into +the terrific gulf some hundred and fifty feet below. +A great ice bridge stretched across the river beyond +the boiling water at the bottom of the Fall, rough and +uneven like some of the Swiss glaciers. Clouds of +spray flew about, seemingly like smoke or steam.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span> +Words fail to describe a scene of such overpowering +grandeur as this.</p> + +<p>I was next driven along Goat Island to a small +suspension bridge, some distance above the Falls, where +I crossed over to one of the three Sister Islands—small +bits of land jutting right out into the middle +of the rapids. The water passes between each of +these islands. I went out to the extreme point of the +furthest. The sight here is perhaps second only to +the great Fall itself. The river, about a mile and +a quarter wide, rushes down the heavy descent, contracting +as it goes, before leaping the precipice below. +The water was tossing and foaming like an angry sea, +reminding me of the ocean when the waves are +running high and curling their white crests after +a storm.</p> + +<p>These rapids had far more fascination for me than +the Falls themselves. I could sit and watch for hours +the water rushing past; and it was long before I could +leave them, though my feet were in deep snow. It +must be very fine to sit out at that extreme point +in summer time, shaded by the rich foliage of the +trees, and dream away the hours. The seat is known +as the Lovers' seat, but lovers would need to have +strong lungs to shout their whispers to each other +there, if they wished them to be heard.</p> + +<p>At length I turned my back upon the foaming +torrent, and resumed the road to my hotel. On my +way back, I stopped at the genuine Niagara curiosity-shop, +where photographs, Indian bead and feather<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span> +work, and articles manufactured out of the "real +Niagara spar," are sold. Only the photographs are +really genuine and good. The bead-work is a manufacture, +and probably never passed through Indian +hands; while the Niagara spar is imported from Matlock, +much of it doubtless returning to England in +the form of curious specimens of workmanship from +the Great Falls.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>I have very little more to add relating to my journey +through the States. I was not making a tour, but +passing through America at railway speed on my way +home to England; and I have merely described, in the +most rapid and cursory way, the things that struck me +along my route. All that remained for me to do between +Niagara and New York, was to call at Rochester, +and pay an unheralded visit to my American cousins +there. What English family has not got relations in the +States? I find that I have them living in Rochester, +Boston, and St. Louis. It is the same blood, after all, +in both countries—in Old and New England.</p> + +<p>After travelling through the well-cultivated, well-peopled +country that extends eastward from Niagara +to Rochester, I arrived at my destination about four in +the afternoon, and immediately went in search of my +American cousins. I was conscious of being a rather +untidy sight to look at, after my long railway journey +of nearly three thousand miles, and did not know +what, in my rough travelling guise, my reception +might be. But any misgivings on that point were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span> +soon set at rest by the cordiality of my reception. +I was at once made one of the family, and treated as +such. I enjoyed with my new-found relatives four +delightful days of recruiting rest and friendly intercourse. +To use the common American phrase, I had +a "real good time."</p> + +<p>The town of Rochester is much bigger than the +English city of the same name. It is a place of +considerable trade and importance, with a population +of about 60,000. Some of the commercial buildings +are very fine; and I was told of one place, that it +was "the finest fire-proof establishment in the world." +Possibly the American world was meant, and that is by +no means a small one. Rochester is especially famous +for its nurseries, where trees of all kinds are reared +and sent far and near; its principal nursery firms +being known all over Europe.</p> + +<p>There are some fine waterfalls near Rochester—the +falls of the Genesee. Had I not seen Niagara, I should +have doubtless wondered at their beauty. Their height +is as great, but the quantity of water is wanting. +After Niagara, all other falls must seem comparatively +tame.</p> + +<p>My short stay in Rochester was made most pleasant. +I felt completely at home and at my ease in the +American household I had so suddenly entered. I also +accompanied my cousins to two evening entertainments, +one a fancy dress ball, and the other a <i>soirée dansante</i>, +where I made the passing acquaintance of some very +agreeable American ladies and gentlemen. I was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span> +really sorry to leave Rochester; and as the carriage +drove me along the pretty avenue to the station, I felt +as if I were just leaving a newly-found home.</p> + +<p>I travelled from Rochester to New York during the +night, passing several large towns, and at some places +iron-furnaces at work, reminding one of the "Black +country" in England by night. The noble Hudson +was hard bound in ice as we passed along its banks, +so that I missed the beautiful sight that it presents in +summer time. But it is unnecessary for me to dwell +either upon the Hudson or the city of New York, +about which most people are in these days well read +up. As for New York, I cannot say that I was particularly +struck by it, except by its situation, which is +superb, and by its magnitude, which is immense. It +seemed to me only a greater Manchester, with larger +signboards, a clearer atmosphere, and a magnificent river +front. It contains no great buildings of a metropolitan +character, unless amongst such buildings are to be +included hotels, newspaper offices, and dry goods +stores, some of which are really enormous piles. +Generally speaking, New York may be described as +a city consisting of comparatively insignificant parts +greatly exaggerated, and almost infinitely multiplied. +It may be want of taste; but on the whole, I was +better pleased with Chicago. The season of my visit +was doubtless unpropitious. Who could admire the +beauties of the noble Central Park in the dead of +winter? Perhaps, too, I was not in a good humour to +judge of New York, as it was there that I met with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span> +my first and only misfortune during my two years' +absence from home. For there I was robbed.</p> + +<p>I had been strongly urged by my friends at Rochester +to go to Booth's Theatre to see Mr. Booth play in +'Richelieu,' as a thing not to be seen in the same +perfection anywhere else. I went accordingly, enjoyed +Booth's admirable acting, and returned to my hotel. +When I reached there, on feeling my pocket, lo! my +purse was gone! I had been relieved of it either +in the press at the theatre exit, or in entering or +leaving the tramway car on my return.</p> + +<p>I had my ticket for Liverpool safe in my waistcoat +pocket; but there was my hotel bill to pay, and +several necessaries to purchase for use during the +voyage home. What was I to do? I knew nobody in +New York. It was too far from home to obtain a +remittance from thence, and I was anxious to leave +without further delay. I bethought me of the kind +friends I had left at Rochester, acquainted them with +my misfortune, and asked for a temporary loan of +twenty dollars. By return post an order arrived for +a hundred. "A friend in need is a friend indeed."</p> + +<p>The same post brought two letters from my Rochester +friends, in one of which my correspondent said that +my misfortune was one that few escaped in New York. +He himself had been robbed of his purse in a Broadway +stage; his father had been robbed of a pocket-book +containing money; and his father-in-law of a +gold watch. My other kind correspondent, who enclosed +me his cheque, said, by way of caution, "You<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span> +must bear in mind that the principal streets of New +York are full of pickpockets and desperadoes. They +will recognize you as a stranger, so you must be wary. +You may be 'spotted' as you go into or come out of the +banking office. It often happens that a man is robbed +in Wall Street in open day,—is knocked down and his +money 'grabbed' before his eyes. So be very careful +and trust nobody. Go alone to the banking office, or +get a trusty servant from the house to go with you. +But let no outsider see cheque or money."</p> + +<p>Of course I took very good care not to be robbed in +New York a second time, and I got away from it +in safety next morning by the 'City of Brooklyn,' +taking with me the above very disagreeable reminiscence +of my New York experience. It is not necessary +to describe the voyage home,—the passage from +New York to Liverpool being now as familiar an event +as the journey from London to York. At Queenstown +I telegraphed my arrival to friends at home, and by +the time the ship entered the Mersey there were +those waiting at the landing-place to give me a cordial +welcome back. I ran up to town by the evening train, +and was again at home. Thus I completed my Voyage +Round the World, in the course of which I have +gained health, knowledge, and experience, and seen +and learnt many things which will probably furnish +me with matter for thought in all my future life.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX.</h2> + +<p> +Albatross, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Alta, Central Pacific Railway, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.<br /> +<br /> +American cousins, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Indians, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">manners, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">railway cars, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Amusements onboard ship, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Arrival of Home Mail, Majorca, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Arum esculentum, Honolulu, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<a name="Atlantic" id="Atlantic"></a>Atlantic and Pacific Railway, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>-<a href="#Page_274">274</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the railway cars, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sacramento city, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">scenery of the Sierra Nevada, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cape Horn, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">snow-sheds, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the Summit, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the Sage desert, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Shoshonie Indians, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Devil's Peak, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Weber Cañon, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Laramie City, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheyenne, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Prairie Dog City, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">River Platte, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">arrival at Omaha, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Auckland, New Zealand, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>-<a href="#Page_211">211</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Aurora Australis, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Australia, first sight of, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">last, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Autumn rains, Majorca, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Avoca, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Azores, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Ballarat, visit to, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>-<a href="#Page_170">170</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Bank, at Majorca, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Bank-robbing, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Bar at a Gold-rush, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Batman, first settler in Victoria, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Battle Mount, Nevada, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Becalmed on the Line, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Beggars, absence of in Victoria, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Bell-bird, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Birds in South Atlantic, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Black Thursday in Victoria, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>.<br /> +<br /> +'Blue Jacket,' burning of, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>-<a href="#Page_38">38</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Bonitos, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Booth's Theatre, New York, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Botanic Gardens Melbourne, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Botany Bay, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Bourke Street, Melbourne, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Brighton, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Brooke, the murderer, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>-<a href="#Page_158">158</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Bush-Animals:—marsupials, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">reptiles, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">birds, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>-<a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Bush-fires, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Bush, the, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in summer, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">by moonlight, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Bush-piano, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Calms on the Line, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Cape Brett, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Cape de Verd Islands, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Cape Horn, Central Pacific Railway, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Cape Leeuwin, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Cape of Good Hope, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Cape Otway, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Cape-pigeons, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Carlton Gardens, Melbourne, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Castlemaine, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Castle Rocks, Rocky Mountains, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Cautions against robbers, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Central Pacific Railway, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>-<a href="#Page_264">264</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Channel, in the, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Cheltenham, Australia, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Cheyenne, U.S., <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Chicago, arrival at, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">enterprise of, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">water-supply, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>-<a href="#Page_281">281</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tunnels under river, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">buildings, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pigs and pork, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">grain-trade of, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sleighs, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">departure from, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Chinese, character, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>-<a href="#Page_66">66</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">gardens and gardeners, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">music, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">burials, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">gold-diggers, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>-<a href="#Page_144">144</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Honolulu, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at San Francisco, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Christmas, in Victoria, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.<br /> +<br /> +'City of Melbourne,' <span class="smcap">s.s.</span>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>-<a href="#Page_219">219</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<a name="Climate" id="Climate"></a>Climate of Victoria:<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">winter, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">spring, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">summer, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">autumn, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</span><br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></span><br /> +Clunes, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>-<a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Coach, journeys by:<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Castlemaine to Majorca, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Clunes to Ballarat, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Auckland to Onehunga, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Cochon Islands, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Collingwood Bank, attempt to rob, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Collins Street, Melbourne, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Cook, Capt., in New South Wales, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Corner, the, Ballarat, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Council Bluffs, U.S., <a href="#Page_276">276</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Crab-holes, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Crozet Islands, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Dale Creek Bridge, U.S., <a href="#Page_271">271</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Death on board ship, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Deck-bath in Tropics, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Descent into a gold-mine, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Detroit, U.S., <a href="#Page_290">290</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to Niagara, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>-<a href="#Page_292">292</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Devil's Peak, Rocky Mountains, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gate, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Diggers,<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at a gold-rush, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">amateur, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chinese, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hospitality of, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Diggers' tales, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Divers, Honolulu, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Drink-licence, Honolulu, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Drunkenness, absence of, in Majorca, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Dust-winds in Victoria, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Echo City and Cañon, U.S., <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Elsternwick, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Elko, Nevada, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Epsom, New Zealand, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Eucalyptus, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Farms, near Majorca, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Ferry-boat, San Francisco, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Fête at Talbot, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>-<a href="#Page_175">175</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Majorca, for School-fund, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Fires in the Bush, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Fire-brigade, Ballarat, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Fitzroy Gardens, Melbourne, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Flies in Majorca, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Floods, about Majorca, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Ballarat, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>-<a href="#Page_114">114</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Clunes, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Flowers, Majorca, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Flying-fish, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Frenchman in Majorca, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Fruits, Majorca, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Funeral of Majorca Town Clerk, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +'Galatea,' H.M.S., <a href="#Page_205">205</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.<br /> +<br /> +'George Thompson,' of London, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Germans, in Victoria, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Genesee Falls, U.S., <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Goat Island, Niagara, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Gold: buying, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>-<a href="#Page_144">144</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">finding, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>-<a href="#Page_152">152</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mining, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>-<a href="#Page_152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">purifying, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>-<a href="#Page_142">142</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rushing, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>-<a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Grain-trade, Chicago, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Grapes, in Victoria, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>.<br /> +<br /> +'Great Britain,' of Liverpool, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Green sea, shipping a, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Gum-tree, Australian, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Harvest-time, Majorca, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Havelock rush, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Hawaii, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Heat in summer, Australia, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Holystoning, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Honey suckers, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Honolulu: arrival at, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the harbour, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">commercial importance of, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">churches, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Post Office, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">King's Palace at, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">visit to the Nuuanu Valley, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>-<a href="#Page_231">231</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Poi, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Queen Emma's villa, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the Pali, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the natives, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the women, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">liquor-licences, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chinese opium-licence, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">theatricals at, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">climate of, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Honolulu to San Francisco, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>-<a href="#Page_243">243</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Horse-shoe Fall, Niagara, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Hudson River, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Humboldt, U.S., <a href="#Page_261">261</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Ice-Bird, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Ice consumption in U.S., <a href="#Page_288">288</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Ice harvest, Lake Michigan, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Illinois Prairie, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Irish in Majorca, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Kalamazoo, U.S., <a href="#Page_290">290</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Kamehameha V., <a href="#Page_237">237</a>.<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</a></span><br /> +Kanakas, Honolulu, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>-<a href="#Page_233">233</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Kangaroo, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Landing in Australia, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Laramie City, U.S., <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Leatherheads, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Leeches in Victoria, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Les Apôtres Islands, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Libraries, Public, in Australia,—Melbourne, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ballarat, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Majorca, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Line, cross the, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Liquor-law, Honolulu, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Lowe Kong Meng Mine, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>.<br /> +<br /> +'Lord Raglan,' <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Lovers' Seat, Niagara, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Luggage, on American Railways, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Lung complaints, sea voyage in, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +MacCullum's Creek, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Macquarie Lighthouse, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Magpie, Australian, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Mails: Victoria and Honolulu, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">delays of, New Zealand, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">newspapers by Ocean mail, treatment of, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">arrival at Majorca, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Majorca, life in, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>-<a href="#Page_188">188</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Manukau Bay, New Zealand, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Maoris, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Marsupials, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Maryborough, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rush at, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Mathews, Mr. Charles, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Mauna Loa, Sandwich Islands, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Melbourne, arrival at, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">youth of, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rapid growth of, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">absence of beggars, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the Chinese quarter, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">public library, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">visit to Pentridge Prison, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>-<a href="#Page_70">70</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Botanic Gardens, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the Yarra, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the sea suburbs of, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hospitality of, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Christmas in, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Michigan City, U.S., <a href="#Page_289">289</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Michigan, Lake, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>-<a href="#Page_282">282</a>, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Mina Birds, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Mississippi River, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Missouri River, <a href="#Page_276">276</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Monument to Cook, 193 (<i>note</i>) (now Page <a href="#Page_201">201</a>, <i>footnote 14</i>).<br /> +<br /> +Moonlight in Victoria, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Mormon fortifications, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.<br /> +<br /> +'Moses Taylor,' <span class="smcap">s.s.</span>, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Mount Greenock, Australia, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Musquitoes <a href="#Page_133">133</a>, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +New chums, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>.<br /> +<br /> +New York, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>.<br /> +<br /> +New Zealand, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>-<a href="#Page_211">211</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Niagara Falls in winter, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>-<a href="#Page_296">296</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Nursery Gardens, Rochester, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Nuuanu Valley, Honolulu, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Oahu Island, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Oakland, California, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Ogden, Utah, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Onehunga, New Zealand, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>-<a href="#Page_210">210</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Opium-licence, Honolulu, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Opossum-shooting, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>-<a href="#Page_133">133</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Pacific, up the, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>-<a href="#Page_243">243</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Pali, of the Nuuanu Valley, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Paroquets, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Parliament House, Melbourne, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>.<br /> +<br /> +'Patter <i>v.</i> Clatter,' at Honolulu, 235 (<i>note</i>) (now Page <a href="#Page_236">236</a>, <i>footnote 16</i>).<br /> +<br /> +Pentridge Prison, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>-<a href="#Page_70">70</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Phosphorescence, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Pigtail, Chinese, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Piping-Crow, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Platte River, U.S., <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Plymouth Harbour, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Poi, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Port Jackson, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>-<a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Port Phillip Heads, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Possession Island, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>.<br /> +<br /> +'Pyrmont,' of Hamburg, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Queenscliffe, Australia, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Race with 'George Thompson,' <a href="#Page_42">42</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Railway: Atlantic and Pacific, <i>see <a href="#Atlantic">Atlantic</a></i>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to Castlemaine, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">carriage, American, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">smash, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">touters at S. Francisco, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Rain in Victoria, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Robbed in New York, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Rochester, U.S., <a href="#Page_296">296</a>.<br /> +<br /> +'Rosa' of Guernsey, abandoned, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Rough life at the Diggings, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Rushes, gold, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Sacramento, California, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</a></span><br /> +Sage-bush, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>.<br /> +<br /> +'Saginaw,' wreck of the, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Sail Rock, New Zealand, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.<br /> +<br /> +St. Kilda, Victoria, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>.<br /> +<br /> +San Antonio, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Sandridge, Victoria, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Sandwich Islands, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>.<br /> +<br /> +San Francisco, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>-<a href="#Page_250">250</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">arrival at, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Bay of, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">buildings, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Chinese quarter, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">ferry-boat, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">money-brokers, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">railway touters, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">railway terminus, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">streets, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Schools, Majorca, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Scotch at Majorca, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Serious family, visit to a, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Shipping a green sea, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Shooting sea-birds, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">opossums, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>-<a href="#Page_133">133</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Shoshonie Indians, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>.<br /> +<br /> +"Shouting" for drinks, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Sierra Nevada, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>-<a href="#Page_264">264</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Sister Islands, Niagara, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Snakes in the Bush, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Snow-sheds and fences, Atlantic and Pacific Railway, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.<br /> +<br /> +South Atlantic, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Spring at Majorca, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Squatters, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Steam-voyage, monotony of, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Stevenson, on power of waves, 49 (<i>note</i>) (now Page <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <i>footnote 2</i>).<br /> +<br /> +Stink-pot, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Stockton, California, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Summer in Victoria, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Sunrise in the Bush, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Sunset in the Tropics, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Suspension Bridge, Niagara, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Sydney, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>-<a href="#Page_202">202</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">age of, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">animals in Botanic Gardens, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Botanic Gardens, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">compared with Melbourne, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Cove, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">description of, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">domain, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">harbours, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">public buildings, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">suburbs, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Sydney to New Zealand, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>-<a href="#Page_211">211</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Talbot, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>-<a href="#Page_175">175</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Taro-plant, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Tea-meetings, Majorca, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Teetotallers, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Telegraph, Victoria, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Theatres: Honolulu, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Melbourne, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">New York, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Theatricals on board ship, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Thieves, New York, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Thousand-mile Tree, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Three King's Island, New Zealand, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Trade winds, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Trestle-bridges, Atlantic and Pacific Railway, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Union Pacific Railway, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>-<a href="#Page_274">274</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Verein, opening of, Majorca, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Victoria, when colonized, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Victorian climate, <i>see <a href="#Climate">Climate</a></i>.<br /> +<br /> +Victorian life, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Vineyards, Australia, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Wahsatch Mountains, U.S., <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Wallaby, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Water-supply, Chicago, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Wattle-birds, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Weber Cañon, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Western Pacific Railway, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Whale-bird, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Williamstown, Victoria, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Wine in Victoria, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Winter in Majorca, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Wooloomooloo, Sydney, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Work in Victoria, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Wreck of 'Saginaw,' <a href="#Page_238">238</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Wrens, Victorian, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Yarra-Yarra River, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>.<br /> +<br /> +'Yorkshire,' <a href="#Page_1">1</a>-<a href="#Page_59">59</a>.<br /> +</p> + +<hr style='width: 65%;' /> + +<h3>Transcriber's Notes</h3> + +<p>Some of the maps have been moved slightly to avoid breaking up the +paragraphs. The map on page <a href="#Page_50">50</a> was originally split across pages 50-51.</p> + +<p>Minor punctuation corrections and the following changes have been made:</p> + +<p> +CONTENTS: These changes were made to match the chapter headings:<br /><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Under CHAPTER <a href="#CHAPTER_II_toc">II</a>: The Cape de Verde changed to The Cape de Verd.</span><br /><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Under CHAPTER <a href="#CHAPTER_III_toc">III</a>: Paying my "Footing" changed to Paying "Footings".</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Major's Wonderful Story "Capped" changed to The Major's Wonderful Stories.</span><br /><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Under CHAPTER <a href="#CHAPTER_XIII_toc">XIII</a>: The Piping Crow changed to The Piping-Crow.</span><br /><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Under CHAPTER <a href="#CHAPTER_XXII_toc">XXII</a>: Behavior changed to Behaviour (of the Ship).</span><br /><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Under CHAPTER <a href="#CHAPTER_XXVII_toc">XXVII</a>: A Railway Smash changed to A Railway Smashed.</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>Pages <a href="#Page_2">2</a> and <a href="#Page_48">48</a>: mizenmast changed to mizen-mast.</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_8">8</a>: probabilty changed to probability (probability of our).</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_13">13</a>: india-rubber changed to India-rubber.</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_16">16</a>: Repeating "a" removed (water at a splendid pace).</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_83">83</a>: back-ground changed to background.</p> + +<p>Page 88: Footnote 1 in original book, now Page <a href="#Page_95">95</a>: Footnote 6, loss changed to +less (no less than ten engines).</p> + +<p>Pages <a href="#Page_118">118</a> and <a href="#Page_303">303</a>: Piping crow changed to piping-crow.</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_125">125</a>: sun-light changed to sunlight (the red sunlight).</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_137">137</a>: where changed to were (our track, and were walking exactly).</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_137">137</a>: hillside changed to hill-side (the hill-side above Majorca).</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_192">192</a>: weatherwise changed to weather-wise.</p> + +<p>Page 194: Footnote 1 in original book, now Page <a href="#Page_201">201</a>: Footnote 14, nscription +changed to inscription (inscription "Captain Cook landed).</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_196">196</a>: desposited changed to deposited (safely deposited).</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_230">230</a>: ranche changed to ranches (some cattle ranches).</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_235">235</a>: Janpanese changed to Japanese (Japanese jugglers).</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_235">235</a>: indentical changed to identical (identical troupe).</p> + +<p>Page 235: Footnote 1 in original book, now Page <a href="#Page_236">236</a>: Footnote 16: $2 50c changed +to $2.50.</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_241">241</a>: in changed to is (American coast is about 2100 miles).</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_243">243</a>: downpour changed to down-pour.</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_248">248</a>: mid-day changed to midday.</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_287">287</a>: (Chapter heading): The Fortes changed to The Forest.</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_303">303</a> (Index): Oaku changed to Oahu (Oahu Island, 222).</p> + + + + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Boy's Voyage Round the World, by +The Son of Samuel Smiles + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A BOY'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD *** + +***** This file should be named 24345-h.htm or 24345-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/4/3/4/24345/ + +Produced by Thierry Alberto, Diane Monico, and The Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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