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diff --git a/23991.txt b/23991.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..33d6834 --- /dev/null +++ b/23991.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3197 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Mission Furniture, by H. H. Windsor + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Mission Furniture + How to Make It, Part 2 + + +Author: H. H. Windsor + + + +Release Date: December 25, 2007 [eBook #23991] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MISSION FURNITURE*** + + +E-text prepared by K. Nordquist, Ross Wilburn, and the Project Gutenberg +Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net) + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 23991-h.htm or 23991-h.zip: + (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/3/9/9/23991/23991-h/23991-h.htm) + or + (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/3/9/9/23991/23991-h.zip) + + + + + +MISSION FURNITURE + +How To Make It + +PART TWO + +Popular Mechanics Handbooks + + + + + + + +Chicago +Popular Mechanics Company + +Copyrighted, 1910 +by H. H. Windsor + + + + +This book is one of the series of handbooks on industrial subjects being +published by the Popular Mechanics Co. Like the magazine, these books +are "written so you can understand it," and are intended to furnish +information on mechanical subjects at a price within the reach of all. + +The texts and illustrations have been prepared expressly for this +Handbook Series, by experts; are up-to-date, and have been revised by +the editor of Popular Mechanics. + +The dimensions given in the stock list contained in the description of +each piece of furniture illustrated in this book call for material +mill-planed, sanded and cut to length. If the workman desires to have a +complete home-made article, allowance must be made in the dimensions for +planing and squaring the pieces. S-4-S and S-2-S are abbreviations for +surface four sides and surface two sides. + + + +Contents + + AN OAK BUFFET, 5 + + OAK STAIN, 9 + + A PLAIN OAK HALL CLOCK, 10 + + A ROCKING CHAIR, 14 + + A CURVED BACK ARM CHAIR, 18 + + A PLATE RACK, 21 + + TOOL FOR MARKING DOWEL HOLES, 23 + + A MAGAZINE TABLE, 24 + + A WASTE PAPER BASKET, 27 + + AN OAK WRITING DESK, 29 + + AN OAK COUCH WITH CUSHIONS, 33 + + ELECTRIC SHADE FOR THE DINING ROOM, 37 + + HOW TO BEND WOOD, 40 + + A SMOKING STAND, 43 + + A CHINA CLOSET, 47 + + A LEATHER-COVERED FOOTSTOOL, 50 + + ARTS-CRAFTS MANTEL CLOCK, 52 + + A MUSIC STAND, 55 + + MAKING SCREWS HOLD IN THE END, 58 + + GRAIN OF WOOD, 58 + + A WALL CASE WITH A MIRROR DOOR, 59 + + A SIDE CHAIR, 62 + + AN ARM CHAIR, 66 + + A BOOKCASE, 70 + + A LAMP STAND, 73 + + AN EXTENSION DINING TABLE, 77 + + AN OAK-BOUND CEDAR CHEST, 79 + + A TOOL FOR MAKING MORTISES, 84 + + A DRESSER FOR CHILD'S PLAYROOM, 85 + + CUTTING TENONS WITH A HAND-SAW, 90 + + ARTS AND CRAFTS OIL LAMP, 91 + + ANOTHER CHINA CLOSET, 94 + + AN OAK BEDSTEAD, 99 + + AN OAK FOOTSTOOL, 101 + + A LIBRARY SET IN PYRO-CARVING, 105 + + A GRILLE WITH PEDESTALS TO MATCH, 107 + + A LADY'S WRITING DESK, 108 + + A TELEPHONE STAND AND STOOL, 112 + + HOW TO MAKE A DOWEL-CUTTING TOOL, 115 + + A MEDICINE CABINET, 116 + + + + +List of Illustrations + + Finished Buffet, 5 + + Details of Buffet, 5 + + Hall Clock Complete, 11 + + Details of Hall Clock, 11 + + Rocking Chair Complete, 15 + + Details of Rocking Chair, 15 + + Arm Chair Having Bent-Wood Back, 19 + + Details of Curved Back Arm Chair, 19 + + Parts Held Together by Keys, 22 + + Details of Plate Rack, 23 + + Marking Bore Holes for Dowels, 24 + + Table Complete, 25 + + Details of Magazine Table, 27 + + Illustration, 27 + + Illustration, 29 + + Detail of Writing Desk, 29 + + Writing Desk Complete, 31 + + Couch Complete, 34 + + Details of Mission Couch, 35 + + Details of Shade, 38 + + Electric Shade Complete, 39 + + Steaming Box, 41 + + Hose Attached to Teakettle, 41 + + Form Blocks, 41 + + Smoking Stand Details, 43 + + Finished Smoking Stand, 43 + + Details of China Closet, 47 + + China Closet Complete, 49 + + Footstool Leather Covered, 51 + + Details of Footstool, 52 + + Mantel Clock with Wood and Copper Front, 53 + + Details of Mantel Clock, 54 + + Details of Music Stand, 55 + + Music Stand Complete, 55 + + Illustration, 58 + + Wall Case Details, 60 + + Case with Mirror Door, 61 + + Side Chair Complete, 63 + + Details of Side Chair, 64 + + Arm Chair Complete, 67 + + Details of Chair, 68 + + Completed Bookcase, 70 + + Details of Bookcase, 70 + + Details of Lamp Stand, 74 + + Electric Lamp Stand Complete, 75 + + Extension Dining Table Complete, 77 + + Details of Dining Table, 77 + + Details of Cedar Chest, 79 + + Cedar Chest Complete, 83 + + Boring Holes for Tenons, 84 + + Details of Dresser, 85 + + Dresser Complete, 88 + + Drawer Construction, 89 + + Sawing Tenons, 91 + + Artistic Mission Style Oil Lamp, 91 + + Bronze Shade Holder, 91 + + China Closet with Latticework Doors and Sides, 96 + + Details of China Closet, 96 + + Oak Bedstead Complete, 99 + + Details of Oak Bedstead, 101 + + Details of Footstool, 103 + + Footstool Complete, 103 + + Table and Seat Decorated in Pyro-Carving, 105 + + Grille for an Arch, 107 + + Details of Writing Desk, 109 + + Desk Complete, 110 + + Stand and Stool Complete, 112 + + Details of Stand and Stool, 112 + + Easy Way to Make Dowels, 116 + + Medicine Cabinet Complete, 116 + + Details of Medicine Cabinet, 117 + + + + + +AN OAK BUFFET + + +[Illustration: Finished Buffet] + +[Illustration: Details of Buffet] + +The accompanying sketch and detail drawing show a design of a buffet +wherein refinement of outline and harmony of details are conspicuously +regarded. Quarter-sawed oak is the most suitable wood for this handsome +piece of mission furniture. The material should be ordered from the mill +ready cut to length, squared and sanded. Following is a list of the +stock needed: + + 2 back posts, 2 by 2 by 47-3/4 in. + 2 front posts, 2 by 2 by 45-1/2 in. + 4 rails, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 50-1/2 in. + 2 end rails, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 18-1/2 in. + 4 end rails, 3/4 by 4 by 18-1/2 in. + 4 pieces for end panel, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 21 in. + 2 panels, 3/8 by 12 by 21 in. + 1 top board, 3/4 by 17-1/2 by 47-1/4 in. + 1 back board, 3/4 by 11-1/2 by 47-1/4 in. + 1 shelf board, 3/4 by 2 by 46 in. + 2 brackets, 1 by 2 by 7-3/4 in. + 4 pieces for doors, 3/4 by 4 by 11 in. + 2 panels, 3/8 by 11 by 17-1/2 in. + 1 piece for drawer, 3/4 by 8 by 22-1/2 in. + 1 piece for drawer, 3/4 by 7-1/2 by 22-1/2 in. + 1 piece for drawer, 3/4 by 7 by 22-1/2 in. + 2 pieces, 1/2 by 8 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood. + 2 pieces, 1/2 by 7-1/2 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood. + 2 pieces, 1/2 by 7 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood. + 1 piece, 1/2 by 8 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood. + 1 piece, 1/2 by 7-1/2 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood. + 1 piece, 1/2 by 7 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood. + 1 bottom board, 3/4 by 17-1/2 by 47-1/4 in.; soft wood. + 2 partitions (several pieces), 3/4 by 20 by 24-3/4 in. + 2 front pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 23 in. + 2 back pieces. 3/4 by 2 by 23 in.; soft wood. + 2 side pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 21-1/2 in.; soft wood. + 1 back (several pieces), 3/8 by 25 by 46 in. + 1 mirror frame (to suit mirror). + X/ + +Start to work on the four posts by squaring them up to the proper length +in pairs and beveling the tops as shown. Clamp all four pieces on a flat +surface with the bottom ends even, then lay out the mortises for the +rails and panels on all four pieces at once with a try-square. This +insures getting the mortises all the same height. The back posts also +have a mortise cut in them at the top for the back board as shown. Lay +out the tenons on the ends of the front and back rails in the same +manner. Cut them to fit the mortises in the posts, also rabbet the back +rails for the backing. Cut tenons on the end rails and rabbet them and +the side pieces for the panels. + +Lay out the top and bottom boards to the proper size and notch the +corners to fit about the posts. These boards are fastened to the +1-1/2-in. square rails with dowels and glue. They can now be glued +together and set away to dry. The top board is of oak, and be sure to +get the best side up, while the bottom one can be made of soft wood if +desired. + +The partitions are made of several boards glued together. Be careful to +get an oak board on the outer edge. The drawer slides are set into the +partitions as shown and are fastened in place with screws from the +inside. + +The top back board has a tenon on each end that fits into the mortises +in the back posts and is rounded at the top as shown. The shelf is also +rounded at the ends and is fastened to the back with screws. + +A plate glass mirror should be provided for the back. This is fitted to +the back board as shown, then the brackets put up at the ends of the +mirror frame. + +The main parts are now ready to be assembled and glued together. Before +applying any glue, see that all the joints fit together perfectly. The +end rails and the panels are glued together first and allowed to dry. Be +very careful to get the parts clamped together perfectly square and +straight, else you will have trouble later on. When these ends are dry +slip them on the tenons on the front and back rails which are already +fastened to the top and bottom boards. + +The back board and the partitions must be in place when this is done. +Pin and glue the joints and clamp the whole together square and leave to +dry. + +The doors are now made by mortising the top and bottom pieces to take +the 3/8-in. panel which is glued in place. The drawers are made as shown +in the sketch. The front board should be oak, but the remainder can be +made of soft wood. The joints are nailed and glued. Suitable hinges for +the doors and handles for the drawers should be provided. Antique copper +trimmings look very well with this style of furniture and can be secured +at most any hardware store. + +The back is made of soft wood and is put on in the usual manner. Scrape +all surplus glue from about the joints, as stain will not take where +there is any glue. Finish smooth with fine sandpaper, then apply the +stain you like best. This can be any one of the many mission stains +supplied by the trade for this purpose. + + + + +OAK STAIN + + +An easy and at the same time a good way to stain oak in imitation of the +fumed effect, is to boil catechu in the proportion of 1/4 lb. to 6 lb. +of water, after which cool and strain. Apply this to the wood, and when +dry treat with a solution of bichromate of potash in the same proportion +as with the catechu. Bichromate of potash alone in water will give a +good stain. A solution of 2 oz. of pearl ash and 2 oz. of potash mixed +in a quart of water makes a good stain. Potash solution darkens the +wood, and when applied very strong will produce an almost ebon hue, due +to what we might describe as the burning of the wood fiber. + + + + +A PLAIN OAK HALL CLOCK + + +The hall clock shown in the illustration should be made of plain oak. +The following pieces will be needed to make it: + + 2 back posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 81 in., S-4-S. + 2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 21 in., S-4-S. + 2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 44 in., S-4-S. + 10 front and back horizontals, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 15 in., S-4-S. + 10 side horizontals, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 11 in., S-4-S. + 1 face, 3/8 by 14 by 14 in., S-4-S. + +FRONT DOORS + + 4 rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 18 in., S-4-S. + 4 stiles, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 12 in., S-4-S. + 4 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 3/4 by 11 in., S-4-S. + 4 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 11 in., S-4-S. + 4 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 3/4 by 15 in., S-4-S. + 2 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 15 in., S-4-S. + +BACK + + 1 piece, 3/8 by 14 by 21 in., S-4-S. + 2 pieces, 3/8 by 14 by 18 in., S-4-S. + 4 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 14 in., S-4-S. + 4 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 20 in., S-4-S. + +TOP SIDE PANELS + + 2 pieces, 3/8 by 9-1/2 by 14 in., S-4-S. + 8 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 6 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 14 in., S-4-S. + 2 middle side panels, 3/4 by 9-1/2 by 20 in., S-2-S. + +LOWER SIDE PANELS + + 8 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 3/4 by 18 in., S-4-S. + 8 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 18 in., S-4-S. + 8 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 3/4 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 8 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S. + +If the worker will take the trouble to combine the different lengths of +pieces having like thicknesses and widths into pieces of standard +lengths, he will be able to save himself some expense at the mill with +no more work for himself. + +Begin work by shaping the ends of the posts as indicated in the drawing. +Lay out and cut the mortises for the tenons of the horizontals or rails. +These mortises need not be deep if the joints are to be reinforced later +with lag screws as is the clock shown. They may be what are known as +stub tenons and mortises. The tenons are not more than 1/2 in. long, +just enough to keep the rail from turning about. + +Next lay out and cut the tenons on the rails. Bore the holes for the lag +screws, being careful to bore on adjacent surfaces so that the holes +will miss each other. Use a 3/8 by 3-in. lag screw, boring the hole in +the tenon with a 1/4-in. bit the full depth the screw is to enter. + +The side panels should be fitted into grooves in the rails, and before +the frame is put together these panels should be squared up and the +grooves cut in the rails and posts at the proper places. + +[Illustration: Hall Clock Complete] + +[Illustration: Details of Hall Clock] + +The mullions of the lower side panels, it will be noted, are specified +5/8 and 3/4 in. wide. The 5/8-in. pieces are for the central parts of +the frame and the others for the outside. The frame is to be made 1/8 +in. larger all around than the distance between the posts and between +the rails so that it may be set in grooves cut in the posts and the +rails to a similar depth, 1/8 in. This is true, also, of the mullions of +the front doors. Square up the shelves so that they may be set into +grooves in the adjacent rails. The middle shelf is to have an overhang +and will rest upon the rails. + +The mullions of the top side panels are all of the same width, and it is +not intended or necessary to set their frame into grooves in the posts. +The wood panel back of them gives ample strength. + +It is a good plan not to groove the panel upon which the figures are +placed, and which becomes the face of the clock. It is better to fit +this piece in and fasten metal or wood buttons on the back side so that +it can be readily taken off to get at the clock movement from the front. + +Make the doors, tenoning the rails into the stiles and grooving both to +receive the mullioned framework of 3/16-in. stuff. + +Put the whole frame together, using good hot glue for the joints. When +the glue has dried sufficiently to allow the clamps to be taken off, fit +the doors and hinge them. Butterfly surface hinges look well and are the +easiest to apply. + +Thoroughly scrape all the surplus glue off and sandpaper the parts +preparatory to applying the finish. + +To finish, apply one coat of mission oak water stain. When dry, +sandpaper lightly, using No. 00 paper. Apply a second coat, diluted with +an equal amount of water. Sand this lightly and put on a very thin coat +of shellac to keep the filler color, which follows, from discoloring the +high lights. When the shellac has had time to harden, sand lightly and +put on a coat of paste filler. Use light filler, colored with umber and +Venetian red in the proportion of 12 oz, of umber, and 4 oz. of red to +20 lb. of filler. The directions for applying the filler will be found +on the can labels. On the hardened filler apply a thin coat of shellac. +Sand the shellac lightly and put on several coats of some good floor +wax, polishing well according to the directions on the can. This is what +is known as a mission oak finish and is quite popular for this type of +furniture design. + +The metal figures for the dial come with the clock movement. Some of the +movements come already set in boxes of wood so that all one needs to do +is to shape the projecting ends of the wood containing boxes and fasten +them to the frame with screws from the back. A clock with dial figures, +eight-day movement, striking the hours and half hours, with cathedral +gong can be bought for $4, possibly less. + + + + +A ROCKING CHAIR + + +In furniture construction such as this, nothing is gained by trying to +plane up the stock out of the rough. This is mere drudgery and can be +more cheaply and easily done at the planing mill by machinery. There +will be plenty to do to cut and fit all the different parts. Order the +pieces mill-planed and sandpapered to the sizes specified below. + +Plain sawed red oak takes a mission finish nicely and is appropriate. +Some people like quartered white oak better, however. The cost is about +the same. + +The stock for the chair is as follows: Widths and thicknesses are +specified exact except for the rear posts and the rockers; but to the +lengths enough surplus stock has been added to allow for squaring the +ends. + + 2 front posts, 1-5/8 by 2-1/4 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 2 back posts, 1-5/8 by 11 by 40 in., S-2-S. + 1 front horizontal, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 22 in., S-4-S. + 1 back horizontal, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 20 in., S-4-S. + 2 back horizontals, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 20 in., S-4-S. + 2 side horizontals, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 20 in., S-4-S. + 2 back slats, 5/16 by 3-1/2 by 20 in., S-4-S. + 2 arms, 1 by 4-1/2 by 25 in., S-2-S. + 1 rocker, 2-1/4 by 6 by 33 in., S-2-S. + 5 bottom slats, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S. + +[Illustration: Rocking Chair Complete] + +[Illustration: Details of Rocking Chair] + +Begin work on the posts first. The front posts should have one end of +each squared, after which they can be cut to the exact length. The +rear posts, according to the stock bill, are specified for the exact +thickness. By exercising forethought, both may be got from the piece +ordered. The tops and bottoms of the posts should have their edges +slightly chamfered to prevent their slivering. + +The shape of the arm is a little out of the ordinary, but the drawing +indicates quite clearly how it is cut. The arm is fastened to the posts +by means of dowels and glue after the other parts of the chair have been +put together. + +Now prepare the curved parts of the back. These parts are worked to +size, after which they are thoroughly steamed and bent in the forms +described on another page. These forms should have a surface curve whose +radius is 22 in. While the parts are drying out, go ahead with the +cutting of the mortises and tenons of post and rail. + +Inasmuch as the width of the front of the chair exceeds that of the back +by 2 in., allowance must be made for slant either in the tenons of the +side rails or in the mortises. This will necessitate the use of the +bevel in laying off the shoulders of the tenons. + +The slats for the bottom are made long enough so that their ends may be +"let into" the front and back rails, a 3/4-in. groove being plowed to +receive them. + +Assemble the back, then the front; and when the glue on them has dried, +put the side rails in place, then the arms. The chair should now be +scraped and sandpapered preparatory to applying the finish. + +The cushion shown in the picture is made of Spanish roan skin leather +and is filled with elastic felt. Such cushions can be purchased at the +upholsterer's or they can be made by the craftsman himself. Frequently +the two parts of the cushion are laced together by means of leather +thongs. + + + + +A CURVED BACK ARM CHAIR + + +The arm chair, the picture and drawing of which is given herewith is a +companion piece to the rocker described on another page. + +With the exception of the back-legs the stock bill which follows gives +the thicknesses and widths exact. To the length, however, enough has +been added to allow squaring up the ends. + +Plain sawed white or red oak will be suitable for a design such as this. + + Front posts, 2 pieces, 1-5/8 by 2-1/4 by 26 in., S-4-S. + Back posts, 1 piece, 1-5/8 by 8 by 45 in., S-2-S. + Front horizontals, 2 pieces, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 21-1/2 in., S-4-S. + Rear horizontals, 4 pieces, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 19-1/4 in., S-4-S. + Side horizontals, 4 pieces, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S. + Back slats, 2 pieces, 5/16 by 3-1/2 by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S. + Arms, 2 pieces, 1-1/8 by 4 by 24 in., S-4-S. + Seat slats, 5 pieces, 1/2 by 2-1/4 by 20 in., S-4-S. + +Begin work by squaring up the ends of the front posts and shaping the +rear ones Chamfer the ends of the tops and bottoms slightly so that they +shall not splinter through usage. Next lay out the mortises and tenons. + +The curved horizontals for the back should now be prepared and steamed +as described on another page. The curved form to which the steamed piece +is to be clamped to give shape to it should be curved slightly more than +is wanted in the piece, as the piece when released will tend to +straighten a little. + +The arms of the chair may be shaped while these pieces are drying on the +forms. The rails of the front and back may be tenoned, too. It should +be noted that the front of the chair is wider than the back. This will +necessitate care in mortising and tenoning the side rails so as to get +good fits for the shoulders The bevel square will be needed in laying +out the shoulders of the tenons. + +[Illustration: Arm Chair Having Bent-Wood Back] + +[Illustration: Details of Curved Back Arm Chair] + +Assemble the back, then the front. When the glue has hardened on these +parts so that the clamps may be removed, put in the side rails or +horizontals and again adjust the clamps. The arms are to be fastened +to the posts with dowels and glue. + +The seat, it will be seen from the drawing, is to be a loose leather +cushion to rest upon slats. These seat slats may be fastened to cleats +which have been previously fastened to the inside of the front and back +seat rails or they may be "let in" to these rails by grooving their +inner surfaces before the rails have been put in place. The latter +method is more workmanlike, but more difficult. + +A cushion such as is shown can be purchased ready made up, or it may be +made by the amateur by lacing together two pieces of Spanish leather cut +to size and punched along the edges so as to allow a lacing of leather +thong. It may be filled with hair or elastic felt such as upholsterers +use. + +Probably the simplest finish that can be used is weathered oak. Put on a +coat of weather oak oil stain, sandpaper lightly when dry and then put +on a very thin coat of shellac. Sand this lightly and follow with two or +more coats of floor wax put on in very thin coatings and polished well. + + + + +A PLATE RACK + + +The plate rack shown in the accompanying illustration is designed for +use in a room furnished in mission style. The dimensions may be changed +to suit the wall space. The parts are held together entirely by keys. +The bar across the front is for keeping the plates from falling out, but +this may be left out if the plates are allowed to lean against the wall. + +The following list of material will be needed, and, if the builder does +not care to do the rough work, the stock can be ordered planed, sanded +and cut to the exact size of the dimensions given. + + 2 ends, 7/8 by 5 by 20 in. + 1 top, 7/8 by 6 by 36 in. + 1 shelf, 7/8 by 5 by 36 in. + 1 bar, 7/8 in. square by 36 in. + 4 keys. Scrap pieces will do. + +Lay out and cut the mortises on the end pieces for the tenons of the +shelf, also the tenons on the top ends and the diamond shaped openings. +In laying these out, work from the back edge of the pieces. Cut the +tenons on the ends of the shelf to fit the mortises in the end pieces, +numbering each one so the parts can be put together with the tenons in +the proper mortises. Mark out and cut the mortises in the top to receive +the tenons on the end pieces. + +[Illustration: Parts Held Together by Keys] + +In laying out the mortises for the keys allow a little extra on the side +toward the shoulder so the ends and tops may be drawn up tightly when +the keys are driven in the mortises. All the mortises and diamond +shaped openings should be marked and cut with a chisel from both sides +of the board. + +If the bar is used, it may be attached with a flat side or edge out as +shown. + +[Illustration: Details of Plate Rack] + +Finish the pieces separately with any weathered or fumed oak stain. When +thoroughly dry, apply a very thin coat of shellac. Finish with two coats +of wax. The rack can be attached to the wall by two mirror plates +fastened on the back edges of the end pieces. + + + + +TOOL FOR MARKING DOWEL HOLES + + +On some work it is quite difficult to locate the exact point for a +dowel, but with the tool illustrated placed between the joint to be made +and the parts gently pressed together you have the exact point for the +dowel in each piece. The tool is made from a piece of sheet steel about +1/2 in. square with a pin having a point on both ends driven in the +center, as shown in Fig. 1. The tool is placed between the pieces that +are to be joined, as shown in Fig. 2. The small pin will mark the point +for the bit in both pieces exactly opposite. + +[Illustration: Marking Bore Holes for Dowels] + + + + +A MAGAZINE TABLE + + +This little magazine table will be found a very useful piece of +furniture for the den or library. Its small size permits it to be set +anywhere in a room without being in the way. Quarter-sawed oak should be +used in its construction, and the following pieces will be needed: + + 4 legs, 2 by 2 by 29 in., S-4-S. + 4 end slats, 1/2 by 2 by 10 in., S-4-S. + 1 shelf, 1 by 16 by 30 in., S-1-S. + 1 top board, 1 by 18 by 36 in., S-1-S. + +If you are convenient to a planing mill you can secure these pieces +ready cut to length, squared and sanded. This will save you considerable +labor. + +The four legs are finished on all sides and chamfered at the bottom to +prevent the corners from splitting. The mortises for the shelf should +be cut 9 in. from the top of each leg, as shown in the sketch. Care +should be taken to make these a perfect fit. + +[Illustration: Table Complete] + +The shelf should be finished on the top side and the four edges, and the +corners cut out to fit the mortises in the table legs. An enlarged view +of this joint is shown in the sketch. + +The top board may have to be made of two 9-in. boards, dove-tailed and +glued together. It should be finished on the top side and the edges. The +edges can be beveled if desired. The board is fastened to the legs by +means of screws through four small brass angles. These angles can be +made or they can be purchased at any hardware store. + +[Illustration: Details of Magazine Table] + +The top board and the shelf should be mortised at each end for the 1/2 +by 2-in. slats. These slats should be finished on all sides. + +The table is now ready to be assembled and glued together. The glue +should dry at least 24 hours before the clamps are removed. + +After the glue is dry, carefully go over the entire table with fine +sandpaper and remove all surplus glue and rough spots. It can now be +finished in any one of the mission stains which are supplied by the +trade for this purpose. + + + + +A WASTE PAPER BASKET + + +A waste paper basket of pleasing design, and very easy to construct, is +shown in the accompanying sketch. Quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to +use, and it is also the easiest to obtain. The following pieces will be +needed: + + 1 bottom piece, 3/4 by 9 in. square. + 4 corner pieces, 3/4 in. square by 15-1/2 in. + 4 top rails, 3/4 in. square by 7-1/2 in. + 12 slats, 1/4 by 3/4 by 16-1/4 in. + 4 blocks, 1 in. square. + 4 F.H. screws, 2-1/2 in. long. + 24 R.H. screws, 3/4 in. long. + +[Illustration: A WASTE PAPER BASKET] + +If the pieces are ordered from the mill cut to length, squared and +sanded, much labor will be saved. First bevel the ends of the corner +posts and the slats, as shown, and finish them with sandpaper. Bore the +holes in the posts and the railing for the dowel pins. These pins should +be about 3/8 in. in diameter and 3/4 in. long. When this is done the +parts can be glued together and laid aside to dry. The four blocks 1 in. +square are for the feet. Bore holes through these blocks and the corners +of the bottom board for the large screws to go through. Fasten them +together by running the screws through the blocks, and the board into +the ends of the corner posts as shown in the sketch. The 1/4-in. slats +can now be fastened on with the small round-headed screws. They should +be evenly spaced on the four sides. This completes the basket except for +the finish. This can be any one of the many finishes supplied by the +trade for this purpose. + +[Illustration: DETAILS OF WASTE PAPER BASKET] + + + + +AN OAK WRITING DESK + + +For the writing desk shown in the accompanying picture the following +stock will be needed. The thicknesses of all the pieces are specified. +On the legs the widths, too, are specified. Quarter-sawed white oak is +the best wood to use, and it should be well seasoned and clear of shakes +and other imperfections. + +STOCK BILL + + 2 front posts, 1-5/8 by 1-5/8 by 34 in., S-4-S., oak. + 2 back posts, 1-5/8 by 1-5/8 by 42 in., S-4-S., oak. + 2 lower side rails, 3/4 by 3-1/4 by 15 in., S-2-S., oak. + 1 lower back rail, 3/4 by 3-1/4 by 27 in., S-2-S., oak. + 2 sides, 3/4 by 9 by 14 in., S-2-S., oak. + 2 sides, 3/4 by 10-1/2 by 14 in., S-2-S., oak. + 1 back, 3/4 by 9 by 26 in., S-2-S., oak. + 1 back, 3/4 by 10-1/2 by 26 in., S-2-S., oak. + 1 top, 3/4 by 6 by 30-in., S-2-S., oak. + 1 lid, 3/4 by 15 by 28 in., S-2-S., oak. + 2 side shelves, 3/4 by 5 by 16 in., S-2-S., oak. + 4 braces, 3/4 by 1-1/4 by 9 in., S-2-S., oak. + 1 bottom of case, 3/4 by 16 by 28 in., S-2-S., oak. + +INTERIOR + + 1 piece, 3/4 by 16 by 27 in., S-2-S., oak. + 4 drawer and case bottom supports, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 28 in., S-2-S., oak. + 6 drawer and case bottom supports, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 16 in., S-2-S., oak. + 4 drawer guides, 3/4 by 3/4 by 16 in., S-2-S., oak. + +DRAWERS + + 2 front pieces, 3/4 by 7-1/2 by 13 in., S-2-S., oak. + 4 side pieces, 3/8 by 7-1/2 by 16 in., S-2-S., poplar. + 2 back pieces, 3/8 by 7 by 12 in., S-2-S., poplar. + 2 bottom pieces, 3/8 by 16 by 12 in., S-2-S., poplar. + +PIGEON HOLES + + 1 bottom, 3/16 by 7-1/4 by 27 in., S-2-S., poplar. + 1 top, 3/16 by 4-1/2 by 27 in., S-2-S., poplar. + 4 verticals, 3/16 by 7-1/4 by 10 in., S-2-S., poplar. + 1 vertical, 3/16 by 4-1/2 by 4 in., S-2-S., poplar. + 5 horizontals, 3/16 by 7-1/2 by 9 in., S-2-S., poplar. + 2 horizontals, 4-1/2 by 9 in., S-2-S., poplar. + +DRAWERS IN PIGEON HOLES + + 2 front, 3/8 by 2-1/4 by 9 in., S-2-S., poplar. + 4 sides, 3/16 by 2-1/4 by 7-1/4 in., S-2-S., poplar. + 2 backs, 3/16 by 2-1/4 by 9 in., S-2-S., poplar. + 2 bottoms, 3/16 by 7-1/4 by 9 in., S-2-S., poplar. + +[Illustration: Detail of Writing Desk] + +Begin work by cutting the posts to length and shape. Having done this, +lay out the tenons on the lower rails so as to have the required +distances between the shoulders, and then cut them. Now cut the parts +to be worked into the frames that support the drawer and bottom of the +case, and glue them properly. While this is drying, the other parts of +the case may be laid out and shaped. It is intended that the sides of +the case shall splice on the edge of the bottom of the pigeon hole case. +In this manner the side shelves will cover the joint on either end. The +back may be made up into one solid piece. Make the side pieces of the +case long enough to be housed into the posts about 3/8 in. at each end. + +[Illustration: Writing Desk Complete] + +The shelves at the ends of the desk should be fastened after the frame +is put together and before the bottom of the case for the pigeon holes +is fitted and fastened. In so doing the shelves may be fastened from the +inside of the case. The angles of the braces are 30-60 deg. It will be +noted that the edges of the lid are rabbeted. Another way is to have the +lid large enough to fit entirely over the sides of the case and change +the slope to correspond. + +The drawers may be made next. The fronts should be of oak, but the other +parts of yellow poplar. An examination of an ordinary drawer will show +the manner of construction. + +Make the frame of the pigeon holes of 3/16-in. yellow poplar. The +drawing shows an arrangement entirely independent of the sides of the +desk so that the frame can be made and slipped in place after the finish +has been put on. Two drawers are shown. These are faced front and back +alike so as to secure as much room in the drawer as possible. + +In the finishing, the poplar wood should be finished with white shellac +in the natural light color of the wood. For the oak parts the following +is appropriate for this design: Apply one coat of green Flemish water +stain. When this has dried, sandpaper lightly until the raised grain has +been removed, and apply another coat of stain diluted one-half with +water. When dry, sand lightly and apply a very thin coat of shellac. +Sand lightly and apply a coat of dark filler, natural filler colored +with lamp-black, according to the somberness of the finish desired. Upon +this put a coat of orange shellac. After this, put on two coats of a +good rubbing varnish. Rub the first coats with curled hair or haircloth +and the last with pulverized pumice stone and raw linseed oil or crude +oil. + + + + +AN OAK COUCH WITH CUSHIONS + + +This beautiful piece of mission furniture can be made at a very moderate +cost, if the material used for the cushions is of good imitation +leather. These substitutes for leather last fully as long and the +difference can only be detected by an expert. White oak will give the +best results except for the frames or slats on which the cushions rest +and these may be made of poplar or pine. If a mill or woodworking shop +of any kind is handy, the hardest part of the work can be saved by +securing the following list of material, cut, planed, sanded and squared +up to the exact sizes given: + + 2 posts, 3 in. square by 17 in. + 2 posts, 3 in. square by 26 in. + 2 rails, 7/8 by 8 by 82 in. + 1 rail, 7/8 by 8 by 25 in. + 1 end, 7/8 by 18 by 25 in. + 1 piece, 7/8 by 9 by 24-1/2 in. + +The last piece on the list when sawed diagonal makes the two slanting +pieces at the head of the couch. The corner braces are made from two +pieces of straight-grained oak, 2 by 4-1/2 by 4-1/2 in., sawed on the +diagonal, and cut as shown in the enlarged plan section to make the four +pieces. + +First be sure the legs are perfectly square, the two short ones and the +two long ones of equal length respectively. Either chamfer or round the +upper ends as desired, chisel and plane the taper on the lower ends. Lay +out and cut all the tenons on the rails--1 in. is the amount allowed at +each end in the stock dimensions given. Arrange the posts and rails in +the positions they are to occupy in the finished couch. Number each +tenon and the place its corresponding mortise is to be cut in the post. +Mark each mortise directly from the tenon which is to fit into it, +taking care to have all the rails an equal distance from the floor. Bore +and chisel out all mortises and see that all the rails fit perfectly, +before proceeding with the work. + +[Illustration: Couch Complete] + +The next step will be to fit in the slanting side pieces at the head of +the couch. These must be let into the long posts 1/2 in. and held also +by a dowel in the side rail. In order to get these pieces into place, +the mortise in the long post must be made 1/2 in. longer than the tenon +on the sloping side piece so the tenon may be first pushed into the +mortise and then the side clamped down on the rail over the dowel. The +whole couch should fit together perfectly before gluing any of the +parts. + +Glue the end parts together first. Hot glue will hold best if the room +and lumber are warm; if these cannot be had, use cold glue. After the +ends have set for at least 24 hours, glue in place the side rails and +slanting head pieces. Screw in place the corner braces. Be sure when +making these braces to have the grain running diagonally across the +corner, or the brace will be weak, also, be sure the sides are square +with the ends; this may be determined by measuring the diagonals to find +if they are equal. + +If it is decided to use frames for the cushions, then the following +material will be necessary: + + 2 pieces, 7/8 by 2 by 56 in. + 2 pieces, 7/8 by 2 by 25 in. + 4 pieces 7/8 by 2 by 21 in. + +This material may be of pine or poplar. These pieces are made into two +frames as shown in the drawing and held together with long screws or +nails. Fasten with glue and screw short blocks on the inside of the +couch rails for holding the two frames in place. Tack pieces of cheap +burlap across the frame and cover with ordinary black cambric. This will +give a strong, springy rest for the cushions. + +Should slats be used instead of frames for holding the cushions, then +the following list of material should be substituted for the frame +material list: + + 2 cleats, 7/8 by 2 by 56 in. + 2 cleats, 7/8 by 2 by 25 in. + 12 slats, 3/4 by 5 by 25 in. + +[Illustration: Details of Mission Couch] + +The materials listed may be of soft wood the same as for the frame. The +cleats are fastened to the inside of the rails of the couch with +screws, so the top edge will be 2 in. lower than the top edge of the +rails. The slats are spaced evenly on these cleats. + +After the glue is all set, remove the clamps and scrape off any glue +that may be on the wood. If this glue is not removed it will keep the +stain from entering the wood, which will show up when finished in white +spots. + +This couch may be stained in any of the shades of brown or dark to +harmonize with its lines of construction. A water stain will penetrate +the wood best and after this is applied and thoroughly dried the surface +should be well sanded to remove the roughness of the raised grain. Apply +one coat of thin shellac and when this is dry, put on two coats of wax. + +In making up the cushions, use either hair or elastic felt for the +filling. + + + + +ELECTRIC SHADE FOR THE DINING ROOM + + +The dining shade shown is constructed of wood and glass. There will be +needed the following: + + 8 pieces, 3/4 by 3/4 by 24 in., S-4-S, oak. + 4 pieces, 3/4 by 3/4 by 4 in., S-4-S, oak. + 4 pieces, 3/4 by 3/4 by 10-1/2 in., S-4-S, oak. + 4 pieces, 3/8 by 3/4 by 23 in., S-4-S, oak. + 8 pieces, 3/8 by 3/4 by 10 in., S-4-S, oak. + 4 pieces, 3/8 by 3/4 by 9 in., S-4-S, oak. + 1 piece, 3/4 by 8 by 8 in., S-4-S, oak. + +Begin work by shaping the ends of the longest pieces as shown in the +drawing. All the angles are 45 deg. Next lay out the cross-lap joints at +the corners so that two sets of horizontal frames shall be formed 23 by +23 in. Cut four pieces to a length of 3 in. each. Also shape up the +"false" extensions of these pieces which are to be fastened below the +lower frame at the corners. Since these are to be cut from the pieces +just specified, the easiest way is to shape the end of each to the +required angle and then crosscut. Rabbet these pieces sufficient to +allow the art glass to set in on the back sides and be fastened--about +1/4 in. will do--and put them together with glue and brads. + +[Illustration: Details of Shade] + +Now make the top square in a similar manner, except the rabbets. In this +top square is to be fitted the 3/4-in. board which is to hold the lights +and to which the chains are to be fastened. + +The sloping sides are next to be made. The sides are to be built up +separately, the corners being lapped and glued after rabbeting the under +arrises sufficient to let the glass in. The four sides are mitered +together at their edges and reinforced by covering the joint with +copper. + +These sides are next mitered to the top and bottom frames and made fast +on the under sides with copper strips, glue being used on the edges of +the wood. + +The shade shown had a mottled glass in which greens predominated. The +sizes and shapes of these pieces of glass would better be determined +after the woodwork is finished. + +[Illustration: Electric Shade Complete] + +One manner of fastening the chains is clearly shown in the photograph. +Such a combination will call for an extra piece of oak, 3/4 by 3-1/4 by +3-1/4 in. finished stock. + +A good finish for this shade is obtained as follows: Put on a coat of +silver gray water stain. When this has dried, sand lightly with No. 00 +sandpaper and apply a coat of golden oak oil stain. Allow this to dry +after wiping the surplus off with a cloth. Put on a coat of black paste +filler and allow to harden over night. When dry, sand lightly and put on +a coat of very thin shellac. Sand this lightly when hard and put on a +coat of wax. This is a very dark finish relieved by high lights of +lighter brown and is known as Antwerp oak. + + + + +HOW TO BEND WOOD + + +The process for making bent wood for furniture parts is the same as for +any other kind of bent-wood work. The pieces should be made close to the +size, with only enough material left on them for "cleaning up" after the +bending has been done. The pieces used for the bent work should be good, +clean, "live" lumber. Lumber dried on the stump will not bend. + +A box must be made in which to steam the pieces of wood to be bent. A +design of a steaming box is shown in the illustration. Such a box is +made by nailing four boards together into a square or rectangular form, +the boards having a length sufficient to take in the length of the +furniture parts to be bent. Both ends of the finished box are squared up +and closed with a board cut to the size, using felt or gunny sack in the +joint to make it as tight as possible. These ends can be nailed on, but +it is best to hold them with a bar of metal set against each one. +Nailing the ends a few times would spoil the box for further use in +steaming. + +[Illustration: STEAMING BOX] + +[Illustration: HOSE ATTACHED TO TEAKETTLE.] + +[Illustration: FORM BLOCKS] + +A good teakettle will serve the purpose for a steam generator. A hose is +attached to the spout of the teakettle, as shown in the illustration, +and to the steaming box in a like manner. The steaming box should be +provided with a short piece of gas pipe turned into a hole bored into +one of the sides used for the top on which to attach the hose. A small +hole should be bored into one side of one end of the steaming box, and +this end should be arranged a trifle lower than the other end. The hole +will permit the water of condensation to escape. Steam should not escape +from the box when a charge of wood is being softened. Steam which +escapes from the box in the form of vapor has done no work whatever, and +is just so much waste of fuel. In order to give up its heat to the wood, +the steam must condense and come away from the box as water. Therefore, +in steaming a charge of pieces in the box, never crowd the teakettle so +hard that the steam escapes around the heads of the box or through any +other joints. The steam should be supplied to the box just as fast as it +condenses, and no faster. When the pieces are placed in the box they +should be so arranged that the steam can find ready access to all sides +of each piece. + +The curve or bend of the piece to be made must be marked out on a wide +board or on the floor. Nail down several blocks of wood or pieces cut +out like brackets on the board or floor against the drawing, as shown in +the illustration. The wood is sprung between these blocks or forms after +it has been softened by steam. When taking the steamed pieces from the +box do not lose any time in securing them to the forms. Do not take out +more than one piece at a time, as it must be bent to the forms +immediately after taking it from the hot steam. The time of the steaming +will vary with the size of the pieces. Small strips may be steamed in 15 +or 20 minutes, while large ones may require several hours to become soft +enough to bend. The pieces must be left in the forms until they are +thoroughly dry. + + + + +A SMOKING STAND + + +When making the smoking stand shown in the accompanying photograph, use +quarter-sawed oak, if possible, as this wood is the most suitable for +finishing in the different mission stains. This little piece of +furniture is very attractive, easy to construct, and is an article that +a smoker would appreciate. + +If the stock is purchased finished and sandpapered, it will save much of +the hard work. The material needed is as follows: + + One piece, 7/8 by 12 in. by 9 ft. long, for the legs. + One piece, 7/8 by 10 in. by 4 ft. long, for the top. + One piece, 7/8 by 8 in. by 1 ft. long, for the shelves. + One piece, 1/2 by 2 in. by 6 ft. long, for the pipe rack. + +The legs can be made first. Cut four pieces off the 12-in. board, each +exactly 25 in. long, and lay each one out with a pair of compasses as +shown in the detail drawing at Fig. 1. With a circle or keyhole saw cut +out the piece, then shave out the saw marks and sandpaper smooth. + +[Illustration: Smoking Stand Details] + +[Illustration: Finished Smoking Stand] + +Next take the 8-in. board and make the shelves. Set a bevel protractor +at a 45-deg. angle, lay out the pieces as shown in Fig. 5, and cut them +out with a saw. Eight pieces are cut out as shown in Fig. 4. These +pieces can be cut out of the scraps left from cutting the legs and +shelves. Cut them so that the grain runs the long way. Place two of +these braces on the bench with the beveled ends toward each other, but +with a piece of 7/8-in. stock between them, and the other two beveled +ends resting against a straightedge. Fasten them to the bench with a +couple of nails, leaving the heads sticking up so that you can pull them +later with a claw hammer. Remove the straightedge and slide the piece +that is between the braces along until it projects 4 or 5 in. from the +side formed by the straightedge. Then place two more braces in the +corners formed by this piece, put two 7/8-in. pieces between the two +braces that are fastened, and the two that are loose, so that each brace +will be in its proper place. Fasten the last two the same as the first +pair. Then remove all the pieces from between the braces and place the +tops of the legs in their stead. These should be fastened to the braces +with 1-in. screws of small diameter, put in at an angle. Bore a hole in +straight for about 1/4-in. with a 1/4-in. bit for each screw, and then +run a gimlet at an angle into the leg. After you have the legs fastened +to the first set of braces, measure up from the bench 10 in. and put in +another set, being careful to get them all the same distance from the +bench, as the inner corners of the shelves rest on these braces. Now +pull out the nails and set the stand on its feet. + +Next put in the shelves. Place the inner corner of one on one of the +braces, and fasten it there with a screw put through the brace from the +bottom. Now fasten a clamp on each leg at the ends of the shelf in such +a manner as to form a support on the top side of the shelf. Then put +four screws through the shelf from the bottom into the legs. Repeat the +operation on each shelf, being careful to get them all the same height. +Four pieces like Fig. 3 should now be made. These pieces will have to be +fitted in place as they should slant outward so that it will be easy to +put articles through the holes. The holes should be about 5/8-in. +diameter. + +The top can be made by cutting off two pieces from the 10-in. board, +each 20 in. long, and fastening them together with dowels. Smooth the +ends and be sure that the boards match evenly. It makes a better job to +glue the top together, in addition to the dowels, and, if you do this, +it would be better to make the top first. Then it will have time to dry +before you are ready to use it. In putting on the top, care should be +taken to get each of the corners an equal distance from the legs. Then a +screw may be put up through each one of the braces and two or three +through each leg into the top. Now smooth all rough and uneven places +with fine sandpaper and apply the finish. Secure some metal matchsafes +and scratchers, fasten on as shown in the photograph, and the stand is +complete. + + + + +A CHINA CLOSET + + +This beautiful piece of mission furniture can be made by anyone who has +a few good tools and knows how to use them. The cost is very moderate +and if you are convenient to a mill a great amount of labor can be saved +by ordering the pieces ready cut to length, squared, and sanded. +Quarter-sawed oak should be used and the material needed will be as +follows: + + 4 posts, 2 by 2 by 54 in., S-4-S. + 2 top and bottom boards, 3/4 by 15-3/4 by 39-1/2 in., S-1-S. + 2 shelves, 3/4 by 15-1/2 by 38 in., S-2-S. + 2 lower end braces, 3/4 by 5 by 15 in., S-2-S. + 2 upper end braces, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 15 in., S-2-S. + 1 lower front board, 3/4 by 3 by 40 in., S-1-S. + 1 upper front board, 3/4 by 2-1/4 by 40 in., S-1-S. + 4 door frames, 3/4 by 1-3/4 by 43-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 4 door frames, 3/4 by 2 by 19 in., S-2-S. + 4 upright end pieces, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 39-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 5 back pieces, 1/2 by 8 by 46-1/2 in., S-1-S. + 2 cleats, 1 by 1 by 37-3/4 in., soft wood. + 4 cleats, 1 by 1 by 12-3/4 in., soft wood. + 4 blocks, 1/2 by 1 by 1-1/2 in. + +First be sure the posts are perfectly square and of equal length. Either +chamfer or round the upper ends as desired. The mortises can be laid out +and cut, or they can be left until the tenons are all made and then +marked and cut directly from each tenon. + +The top and bottom boards should have the corners cut to clear the posts +as shown in the drawing. The top board should be finished on both sides +and the bottom one on the upper side only and be sure to get the best +side up. + +[Illustration: Details of China Closet] + +Cut the tenons on the front boards back 1/4 in. from the face as shown +in the end view. The boards should be finished on the outside sides and +edges. The end pieces are fitted and finished in a similar manner except +that the inside edge is rabbeted for the glass as shown. The side +pieces are also rabbeted for the glass and the posts have grooves 1/2 +in. deep cut in them to hold these side pieces. They are glued in place +and this can be done after the frame is put together. + +[Illustration: China Closet Complete] + +The two shelves are finished on both sides and the front edges. The +doors are fitted in the usual manner by a tenon and mortise joint at the +ends. They are rabbeted on the inside for the glass and are finished on +all sides. + +Before gluing any of the parts together, see that they all fit and go +together perfectly square. The posts, side, and front pieces should be +glued and assembled, then the top and bottom boards put in place to hold +the frame square when the clamps are put on. Leave dry for about 24 +hours, then scrape all the surplus glue from about the joints as the +finish will not take when there is any glue. Fasten the top and bottom +boards to the frame by means of screws through cleats as shown in the +drawing. The backing is put on and finished on the front side. A mirror +can be put in the back without much trouble, if it is desired. The +shelves should be put in place and held at the back by screws through +the backing and at the front by two small blocks on the posts as shown. + +After the closet is all assembled it should be thoroughly gone over with +fine sandpaper before any finish is applied. It can be finished in any +one of the many mission stains which are supplied by the trade for this +purpose. + + + + +A LEATHER-COVERED FOOTSTOOL + + +The illustration shows a very handy footstool in mission style. The +following list of materials will be needed: + + 4 oak posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 12 in., S-4-S. + 2 sides, 3/4 by 3 by 12 in., soft wood. + 2 ends, 3/4 by 3 by 8 in., soft wood. + 1 bottom, 3/4 by 8 by 12 in., soft wood. + 1 small box of 8 oz. tacks + 2-1/2 doz. ornamental head nails. + 1 piece of dark leather, 16 by 20 in. + 1/2 lb. hair and a small portion of mission stain. + +The posts are the only parts made of quarter-sawed oak, the other +parts, being covered with leather, can be made of any kind of soft wood. +Chamfer the top end of each post, and taper the lower ends as shown in +detail. When this is done the mortises can be cut for the sides as shown +in the post detail. When cutting the mortises and tenons take care to +make them fit perfectly, as there is nothing to brace the legs at the +bottom. The strength of the stool depends upon the joints. Make the +surface of the posts smooth by first using No. 1 sandpaper, then +finishing with No. 00. + +[Illustration: Footstool Leather Covered] + +The parts are now assembled. First clamp the ends together, using plenty +of glue on the joints, and drive some small nails on the inside of the +posts through the tenon ends. When the glue has set, the remaining sides +can be put together the same as the ends. Fit the bottom on the inside +about 1 in. from the top. This can be made fast by driving nails +through the sides and ends of the board. The finishing is done by +putting on the mission stain as the directions state on the can, then +wax the surface to get a dull gloss. + +[Illustration: Details of Footstool] + +The leather is now put on. Notch out the corners to fit around the +posts, but do not cut the ends off. Lap them under the cover. Before +nailing on the cover fix the hair evenly over the top, about 6 in. deep. +Draw the leather over the hair and fasten the edges with the 8-oz. +tacks. The ornamental nails are driven in last, as shown in the drawing, +to make a good appearance. + + + + +ARTS-CRAFTS MANTEL CLOCK + + +The clock shown in the illustration was designed especially for rooms +furnished in mission style. The clock, however, may be made of mahogany +or other wood to match the furniture in any room where it is to be +placed. If the mission effect is desired, an oxidized or copper sash +should be used. Movements can be bought at the salesroom of a clock +company. A movement should be selected that is wide enough from the +front to the back to allow the clock case to be made sufficiently deep +for standing without being easily upset. + +[Illustration: Mantel Clock with Wood and Copper Front] + +Quarter-sawed white oak is the best material for this clock, but any +other wood which works easily and takes a stain well may be used. Two +pieces, 3/8 in. thick, 6-1/2 in. wide, and 8-1/2 in. long, will be +needed for the front and back. One piece, 5 in. wide, 6 in. long, and +with a thickness sufficient for the clock movement, is needed for the +middle part. The thickness of this piece depends on the movement +secured. + +After the front and back pieces are finished, and a piece of hammered +copper screwed on the front as shown in the drawing, the middle piece +must be made just thick enough to make the whole distance from the front +of the copper to the back of the clock equal to the depth of the +movement. Plane one edge on both front and back pieces. Lay out the +design and the centers for the circular holes from this planed edge. +Use a plane and chisel to cut the outside design. The hole can be bored +out with an expansive bit, or sawed out with a scroll saw, and filed +perfectly round with a half-round wood file. The bit will give the best +results. If the bit is used, bore holes in a piece of scrap wood until +the exact size is found. + +[Illustration: Details of Mantel Clock] + +The outside design of the piece of copper is made to correspond to the +design of the clock. The circular hole in the copper can be cut with the +expansive bit by first punching a hole in the center to receive the spur +of the bit, placing on a block of wood and boring through a little way. +The spur on the cutter will cut out the copper. Fasten the copper to the +front with copper nails or round-headed screws. + +If good glue can be had, the three pieces of wood may be glued together. +If the glue cannot be relied upon, put in two flat-headed screws from +the back. + +The clock can be finished with a dark stain and waxed, or, as it is +small, it can be easily fumed. If stain is used, stain and wax the +pieces before putting them together. The fuming process is more easily +done after the clock is assembled. Secure a bucket, a peck measure, or +any receptacle large enough, when inverted, to put over the clock. Pour +about 2 oz. of strong ammonia into a saucer or small pan. Support the +clock above the saucer and cover both with the inverted bucket. Allow it +to stand for three or four days--the longer it stands the darker the +fumed finish will be. Finish with two coats of bleached wax. Do not use +ordinary uncolored wax, as it will show in the unfilled pores of the +wood. The works of the clock should not be in the frame while fuming. + + + + +A MUSIC STAND + + +The attractive and useful piece of mission furniture shown in the +accompanying illustration is made of quarter-sawed oak. Considerable +labor can be saved in its construction if the stock is ordered from the +mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded. The stock list consists of +the following pieces: + + 1 top, 3/4 by 16 by 20 in., S-2-S. + 1 shelf, 3/4 by 11-1/2 by 15 in., S-2-S. + 1 shelf, 3/4 by 12 by 15 in., S-2-S. + 1 shelf, 3/4 by 14-1/2 by 15 in., S-2-S. + 1 shelf, 3/4 by 16 by 15 in., S-1-S. + 4 legs, 3/4 by 5 by 41 in., S-2-S. + 2 lower crosspieces, 3/4 by 3 by 9 in., S-2-S. + 2 upper crosspieces, 3/4 by 2 by 9 in., S-2-S. + 4 end slats, 5/8 by 2 by 34 in., S-2-S. + 20 R.H. screws, 2 in. long. + +The four shelves and the top are so wide that it will be necessary to +make them from two or more pieces glued together. The top should have a +1/4-in. bevel cut around the upper edge as shown in the drawing. + +[Illustration: Details of Music Stand] + +[Illustration: Music Stand Complete] + +The curve of the legs can be cut with a bracket saw or a drawknife, +care being taken to get the edges square and smooth. The four +crosspieces are fastened to the legs by means of tenons and mortises. +The end slats are joined to the crosspieces in the same manner. The legs +can be assembled in pairs with the slats and crosspieces in place. They +can be glued in this position, and when dry they should be carefully +gone over with fine sandpaper to remove all rough spots. The shelves +can now be put in place. They should be fastened to the legs with +round-headed screws. The top is also fastened on with screws. When +applying the finish, remove the top board and the shelves and finish +them separately. The stand can be finished in any one of the many +mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose. + +This handsome piece of furniture can be used as a magazine stand as well +as a music stand, if desired, and, if it is made and finished well, it +will prove an ornament to any home. + + + + +MAKING SCREWS HOLD IN THE END GRAIN OF WOOD + + +[Illustration: MAKING SCREWS HOLD IN END GRAIN] + +It is often necessary to fasten one piece of wood to the end of another +by means of screws. Wood being a fibrous material, it can be readily +understood that when a screw having sharp threads is put in the end +grain parallel to these fibers the threads cut them in such a way that, +when an extra strain is put upon the parts, the screw pulls out, +bringing with it the severed fibers. The accompanying sketch shows how +this difficulty may be overcome, and at the same time make the screw +hold firmly. A hole is bored and a dowel, preferably of hardwood, glued +in it, the grain at right angles to that of the piece. + +The size of the dowel, and its location, can be determined by the +diameter and the length of the screw. The dowel need not extend all the +way through the piece, but should be put in from the surface where the +grain of the dowel will be least objectionable. + +When putting screws in hard wood much labor will be saved by applying +soap to the threads. + + + + +A WALL CASE WITH A MIRROR DOOR + + +The wall case shown in the accompanying picture will serve well as a +medicine case. Having a paneled door in which is set a mirror, it serves +equally well as a shaving case. It is best made of some hard wood, +though a soft wood such as pine or yellow poplar will work up easier and +look well finished with three or four coats of white enamel paint. + +There will be needed the following pieces: + + 2 sides, 5/8 by 6 by 32-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 1 top and 1 bottom, 5/8 by 6 by 18 in., S-4-S. + 1 top of back, 1/2 by 4 by 16-1/4 in., S-2-S. + 1 bottom of back, 1/2 by 3 by 16-1/4 in., S-4-S. + 1 shelf, 5/8 by 5 by 16 in., S-4-S. + 1 back, 1/4 by 16 by 21 in., S-2-S. + +DOOR + + 2 stiles, 5/8 by 3 by 20-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 1 top rail, 5/8 by 2 by 11 in., S-4-S. + 1 bottom rail, 5/8 by 4 by 11 in., S-4-S. + 1 backing for door, 3/16 by 10 by 15 in., S-2-S. + +First shape the ends of the two side pieces as shown in the drawing. +Next square the top and bottom pieces of the case to size, and lay out +and cut the tenons on the ends. Lay out and cut the mortises in the +side pieces, also the groove for the shelf, having first squared the +shelf to size. Cut and shape the top and bottom pieces of the back as +shown. Cut the rebates in the side pieces into which these pieces are to +rest their ends. Cut the rebate for the back. Thoroughly scrape and +sandpaper these parts and assemble them. Cut and fit the back in place. + +[Illustration: Wall Case Details] + +The door is to be made next. Plan the different parts of the door so +that the edges may be planed to fit the opening; that is, make the door +a good quarter larger at top and bottom than the opening. In cutting the +rebate the easiest way is to use a rabbeting plane and cut the full +length of the pieces. By using a tenon on the rails in which one +shoulder is as much longer than the other as the rebate is deep there is +no resulting groove showing at the corner. + +[Illustration: Case with Mirror Door] + +The wood should be finished before the glass is set, at least, it should +be filled, if of hard wood, and one coat of paint put on, if of soft +wood which is to be enameled. + +In setting the glass, place a thin cushion of putty between the rebate +and the glass and another thin cushion between the glass and the fillet +of wood or the backing which is to protect the back of the glass. + +Fit the door, and then put on the hinges and lock. If desired, the +tenons may be made keyed as shown in the photograph instead of through +as shown in the drawing. + +To finish the case, if of oak, apply a coat of light paste filler, the +directions being on the filler can. Next put on a coat of white shellac. +When this has hardened apply two coats of some good varnish. Allow time +for each coat to harden and rub the first coats with haircloth or curled +hair, and the last with pulverized pumice and raw linseed oil or crude +oil. + +If the wood is soft and an enamel white is desired, the enamel is +applied not unlike paint. The directions will be found on the cans in +which the paint is purchased. + + + + +A SIDE CHAIR + + +A side chair of simple design and construction is here given. The great +difficulty with most chair designs is that the back is generally +designed narrower than the front, thus necessitating the rails entering +the posts or legs at angles. To the amateur this is quite confusing. The +chair illustrated is the same in width, both back and front, so that the +shoulders of all the rails are at right angles to the sides. The back of +the chair is straight, thus simplifying the design still more. + +[Illustration: Side Chair Complete] + +Another thing which is confusing to the beginner in his efforts to lay +out the mortises is the irregular placing of the rails. It will be noted +that in this design the rails of side, front and back are on the same +level. + +Plain sawed red oak will be appropriate for this piece. Have the pieces +mill-planed and sandpapered on four sides to size, allowing 1/2 in. +extra to the lengths for squaring up the ends. + +[Illustration: Details of Side Chair] + +There will be needed the following: + + 4 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 17-1/2 in. + 4 rails, 3/4 by 2 by 17-1/2 in. + 2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 19 in. + 2 rear posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 37-1/2 in. + 1 back, 3/4 by 9-3/4 by 17-1/2 in. + 2 cleats, 3/8 by 1 by 16 in. + 4 slats, 3/8 by 2 by 16-1/2 in. + +Begin work by cutting the posts to the lengths indicated in the drawing. +The lower ends should be chamfered slightly to prevent their splintering +from usage. The top ends are cut to an angle of 45 deg., the slope +beginning 1/2 in. below the top. Lay out and cut the mortises. To do +this, lay off the measurements on one of the posts, then place all four +side by side on the bench, with the face marks up. Even the ends with +the try-square and then carry the measurements just made across all of +them, using the try-square. The rails ought to be shouldered on all four +sides. Three-eighths inch is a good thickness for the tenons. The width +may be 1-1/4 in. and the length 1 in. + +Place the rails side by side on the bench with the joint-edges up and +the ends evened. Measure off the desired length on one of them and carry +the lines across all of them to indicate the location of the shoulder +lines. Separate the pieces and square these lines entirely around all of +the sides of each piece. With the tenon saw rip and cross cut to these +lines. + +The back, it will be noted, is set on a slant to add comfort. Thoroughly +clean all the parts and assemble them, using good hot glue. Put the back +together first, then the front. After these have dried, put the side +rails in place. + +Cut and fit the two cleats--one to the front rail and one to the rear +rail. Keep them even with the lower edge of the rail so as to form a +slight recess at the top when the slats are in place. This is to keep +the cushion from sliding off. The slats need not be "let into" the +cleats but merely fastened to their top edges. The cushion may be made +of Spanish roan skin and should be filled with elastic felt. + +In the chair shown, the joints are reinforced by the addition of lag +screws. If the glue is good and the joints well fitted, these are not +necessary. + + + + +AN ARM CHAIR + + +The arm chair here described and illustrated is intended to be one of +the set of diners made after the design of the side chair described on +another page. The same general directions for making the side chair +apply equally to the arm chair. + +The stock given in the following list should be purchased surfaced on +four sides and well sandpapered: + + 2 rear posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 38 in. + 2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 26-1/2 in. + 9 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 19-1/2 in. + 1 rail, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 19-1/2 in. + 3 slats, 1/2 by 2 by 12-1/2 in. + 2 arms, 7/8 by 4-1/2 by 20-1/2 in. + 2 brackets, 7/8 by 2-1/4 by 2-1/2 in. + 2 cleats, 3/8 by 1 by 19 in. + 4 slats, 3/8 by 2 by 19 in. + +Prepare the posts first by cutting them to the lengths shown in the +drawing. In the photograph the front posts have their tops cut off +square and the arms fastened to them by means of lag screws. A better +way from a mechanical point of view would be to shoulder the top ends on +the four sides, cut through-mortises in the arms and insert these +tenoned posts into these mortises, pinning the arm to the post by means +of small dowels in the edge of the post and through the tenon. + +The brackets under the arms are to be fastened to the posts and arms by +means of concealed dowels and glue of good quality. + +All of the rails should be tenoned into the posts thoroughly, even if +the lag screw fastenings are used. If the lag screws are used, the +tenons may be what are known as stubb tenons--tenons of short length. +Good hot glue should be used in either case. + +The shape of the arms is indicated in the drawing. They are fastened to +the rear posts by means of dowels and glue. + +[Illustration: Arm Chair Complete] + +The slats, or verticals, of the back should not have their ends tenoned +but should have the mortises in the rails cut sufficiently large to "let +in" the whole end of each. This is much easier and more likely to result +in a satisfactory fit than to shoulder them. Any unevenness in the +lengths of the respective slats will not affect the fitting of the +joints by this latter method. + +The tops of the rear posts in this chair, as in the side chair, are cut +to angles of 45 deg., beginning the slope at lines marked 1/2 in. from +the tops. + +[Illustration: Details of Chair] + +The bottom is made up of 2-in. slats fitted between the front and back +rails and fastened to cleats which have been previously fastened to the +insides of the front and back rails. Keep these cleats low enough on the +rails so that the top surfaces of the slats shall rest somewhat below +the top edges of the rails. Cushions, such as the one shown, can be +purchased ready made or they can be easily made by the amateur. + +A good finish for this chair and its mates is obtained as follows: Apply +one coat of brown Flemish water stain. This stain in the original +package is very dark in tone and unless an almost black finish is +wanted, it should be lightened by the addition of one-half or two-thirds +water. Apply with a brush or sponge and allow to dry over night. When +dry, sandpaper lightly with fine or worn sandpaper to remove the raised +grain caused by the water of the stain. Put on a very thin coat of +shellac. This is to prevent the "high lights" in close-grained woods +from being discolored by the stain in the filler which is to follow. The +shellac being very thin does not fill the pores of the wood perceptibly. +Next, sand the shellac coat lightly when it has hardened. Apply a coat +of paste filler colored considerably darker than the stain to the tone +desired for the open grain. If the filler is well stirred and properly +applied, one coat ought to be sufficient. If it does not fill the pores +satisfactorily, apply another coat when the first has had time to +harden. Vandyke brown is used to color the filler, if none but natural +color is to be had. On the hardened filler apply a thin coat of shellac. +On this apply several coats of wax. The directions for waxing will be +found upon the cans in which the wax comes. + + + + +A BOOKCASE + + +This beautiful piece of mission furniture can be made at a very moderate +cost by anyone who has a slight knowledge of tools. Considerable labor +can be saved by ordering the material from the mill ready cut to size, +dressed and sanded. Quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use and it is +comparatively easy to obtain. Plain-sawed oak looks well, but is more +liable to warp than the quarter-sawed and this is quite an element in +pieces as wide as the ones used. For the complete bookcase the following +material will be needed: + + 1 top, 3/4 by 15 by 31-1/4 in., hard wood, S-1-S. + 1 top back board, 3/4 by 4 by 30-1/4 in., hard wood, S-1-S. + 2 sides, 3/4 by 14 by 50 in., hard wood, S-1-S. + 1 bottom, 3/4 by 14 by 28-3/4 in., hard wood, S-1-S. + 1 bottom rail, 3/4 by 4 by 28-3/4 in., hard wood, S-1-S. + 1 center piece, 3/4 by 2 by 45-3/4 in., hard wood, S-2-S. + 4 door sides, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 45-1/4 in., hard wood, S-2-S. + 4 door ends, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 14 in., hard wood, S-2-S. + 4 pieces door lattice, 1/2 by 1/2 by 12-1/2 in., hard wood. + 4 pieces door lattice, 1/2 by 1/2 by 7 in., hard wood. + 2 bottom cleats, 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 by 13 in., soft wood. + 2 top cleats, 1 by 1 by 12-1/2 in., soft wood. + 3 shelves, 1/2 by 12 by 28-1/2 in., soft wood. + 12 pieces backing, 3/8 by 4 by 29-3/4 in., soft wood. + 4 hinges. + 2 door handles. + +Begin with the sides by cutting them so they will pair up all right. The +front edges are rounded while the back edges are rabbeted on the inside +as deep as the backing to be used. The bottoms are cut as shown in the +sketch. Holes about 1/2 in. deep should be bored on the inside at the +proper places for the wooden pegs which hold up the shelves. + +[Illustration: Completed Bookcase.] + +[Illustration: Details of Bookcase] + +The top and bottom boards should have the front edges rounded and sanded +the same as the sides. The top board is sanded on one side only and +care should be taken to get the best side up. + +Now cut and fit the top back board. This is fastened to the top by means +of screws. Screw two cleats to each of the sides as shown and by running +screws through these into the top and bottom boards the frame is +completed. + +The backing which can be made of some cheap lumber is now put on. Next +put in the center upright piece between the doors by means of a tenon +and mortise at the top and nail at the bottom. The front edge should be +rounded and the edge and sides sanded. Cut and fit the bottom rail as +shown. It is fastened to the frame by means of cleats on the back side. + +The doors are put together by means of a tenon and mortise. They should +be rabbeted for the lattice work and the glass. This lattice work can be +omitted and leaded glass put in its place which is very becoming to this +kind of work. + +When the case is completed it must be carefully gone over with sandpaper +before any finish is applied. + +A mission stain is suitable for work of this kind, but it can also be +finished in "golden oak" which is done in the following manner: First +put on a golden oak stain and after it has dried for about 2 hours, +apply the filler. Let this dry about 10 minutes then rub off with an old +rag. Then go over the case again with some very fine sandpaper and after +seeing that all parts are free from dust and dirt the varnish can be +applied. Three coats of varnish will give a beautiful glossy finish. + + + + +A LAMP STAND + + +A mission table lamp stand for those who use electric lights is shown in +the accompanying illustration. It is suitable for either the office or +the home and is very simple in design and construction. The stock should +be quarter-sawed oak and it can be ordered from the mill ready cut to +length, squared and sanded. The following pieces will be needed: + + 1 post, 1-1/2 in. sq. by 23 in. + 1 arm, 1-/8 by 3/4 by 13-1/2 in. + 1 block, 3/4 in. thick by 6 in. square. + 1 block, 1 in. thick by 9 in. square. + +[Illustration: Details of Lamp Stand] + +Square up the base blocks and fasten them together with screws as shown +in the detail sketch. A mortise, 1 in. square, is cut in the center of +the blocks for the center post.. Lead weights, covered with felt, +should be attached to the bottom, as shown. The post has a tenon cut on +one end to fit the base, and a mortise cut in the other for the arm. +Holes are bored in the arm from the ends for the wires. They can be +plugged after the wires are in place. A hole is also bored in the top of +the center post to connect with the holes in the arm for the lead wire. + +[Illustration: Electric Lamp Stand Complete] + +It is best to glue the joints together, although this is not necessary +if the joints are a tight fit. Sandpaper the parts thoroughly, then +stain to match the other furniture. + +[Illustration: Extension Dining Table Complete] + + + + +AN EXTENSION DINING TABLE + + +The accompanying sketch and photograph show a simple design of an +extension dining table of the mission style. It is very easy to +construct and can be built at home by anyone who is at all handy with +tools. It should be made of quarter-sawed oak, which can be secured at +the mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded. Order the following +pieces: + + 2 top pieces, 1 by 23 by 46 in. + 2 extra leaves, 1 by 12 by 46 in. + 2 rails, 3/4 by 3 by 44 in. + 4 rails, 3/4 by 3 by 22 in. + 2 pieces for posts, 3/4 by 8 by 24 in. + 2 pieces for posts, 3/4 by 6 by 24 in. + 4 pieces for feet, 3 by 3 by 14 in. + 4 pieces for feet, 3 by 3 by 5 in. + 4 pieces for feet, 1 by 4 by 4 in. + 4 pieces moulding, 1 by 1 by 10 in. + 1 piece, 1 by 12 by 27 in., birchwood. + 2 brackets, 3/4 by 3 by 32 in., birchwood. + 2 pieces for slide, 1-3/4 by 3 by 36 in., birchwood. + 4 pieces for slide, 1 by 3 by 36 in., birchwood. + 12 pieces for slide, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 36 in., birchwood. + +The feet can be made first by squaring up one end of each and beveling +the other as shown in the drawing. The short pieces are fastened to the +long ones by means of long screws and glue. The four square pieces +should be nailed to the outer ends and holes bored in them for the +casters. Prepare the pieces for the posts, and before nailing them +together fasten the feet to them with long screws. Be careful to get +them on square, else the table will not set level when complete. Now +nail and glue the pieces forming the table together and fasten the +moulding at the bottom. This moulding should have mitered corners as +shown in the bottom view. Also fasten the rest piece to the top of the +post, using long screws and glue. + +[Illustration: Details of Dining Table] + +The slides can be made next. The pieces are made and fastened together +with screws as shown in the enlarged detail view. This slide, if made +with care, is a good one. The center piece should be firmly fastened to +the post rest with long screws. The screws that fasten into the top +should be inserted from below through counter-bored holes as shown. + +Miter the rails at the corners and glue them to the top. Blocks can be +used on the inside if desired, which will make a much stronger +construction. Screw the two brackets to the top as shown. These help to +support the table when it is extended. + +When complete the table should be carefully gone over with fine +sandpaper, and all glue and rough spots removed. Apply stain of the +desired color. This can be any one of the many mission stains supplied +by the trade for this purpose. + + + + +AN OAK-BOUND CEDAR CHEST + + +This cedar chest for storing unused bedding or furs is not a difficult +thing to make and when made, the hard oak binding takes the wear and +protects the softer cedar so that the chest ought to serve several +generations. Order the stock as follows: + +CEDAR + + 2 top and bottom pieces, 7/8 by 16-1/2 by 34-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 2 sides, 7/8 by 18-7/8 by 34-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 2 ends, 7/8 by 18-7/8 by 14-3/4 in., S-2-S. + +OAK + + 2 overhanging top pieces, 1 by 1 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 2 overhanging top pieces, 1 by 1 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 2 lock and hinge rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 36-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 2 lock and hinge rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 18-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 2 base pieces, 1 by 3-1/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 2 base pieces, 1 by 3-1/4 by 18-1/2 in., S-2-S. + +[Illustration: Details of Cedar Chest] + +Specify thoroughly seasoned Tennessee red cedar and plain sawed white +oak and have the different pieces mill-planed and sandpapered as +indicated in the stock-bill. This bill allows 1/2 in. extra on the +length and the width of each piece for "squaring up" of all pieces +except those marked to be surfaced on four sides. + +Begin by squaring the sides and ends to size. Probably the best joint +for the corners is the dovetail. If the worker is not experienced in +woodworking, some of the more simple joints will do. It will be noted +that the drawing and stock-bill call for the simplest form of joint, +that in which the sides of the chest lap over the end. For the dovetail +joint it will be necessary to add 2 in. more to the length of the end +pieces, making them 16-3/4 in. each in the rough. + +Having got the sides and ends ready, fasten them together. The +perspective shows the sides fastened to the ends with ornamental headed +nails. Common nails are first used, being equally spaced, and the +ornamental heads are afterwards placed so as to cover their heads. + +Next square the bottom and nail it to the parts just assembled. Square +the top to the same size. + +The base stuff is squared on one edge only. The second edge--the upper +one--is to be beveled or sloped 1/8 in. to facilitate dusting and for +appearance sake. Fit these base pieces to place, mitering the joints. +Before fastening the parts to the chest proper, gauge a line 3/4 in. +from the lower edge and to a point 4-1/2 in. from each end, cut out to +this line and shape the base as shown in the drawing. Use finishing +nails for fastening the base to the chest. The heads should be "set" so +they may be covered later with a putty colored to match the finish. + +In a similar manner plane up, cut and fit the back and hinge rails. +These rails should be kept a "scant" 1/8 in. below the top edges of the +chest proper. The overhang of the lid fits down over in such a way as to +form a dust-proof joint between lid and chest proper. + +The overhang of the lid of 1 in. by 1-in. stock may next be mitered, +fitted and nailed to the lid. Thoroughly sandpaper all parts not so +treated and finish as follows: Put on all the oak pieces, two coats of +natural paste filler. This is best done before they are fastened in +place. Directions will be found on the cans in which the filler is kept. + +The red of the cedar may be heightened by applying a mahogany stain made +of Bismark brown aniline and boiling water, in the proportion of 3 qt. +of water to 1 oz. of aniline. If applied hot the stain will enter the +wood better. When dry, sandpaper lightly with No. 00 paper, both this +and the oak-filled pieces. + +Fasten the oak pieces in place and give the whole exterior a very thin +coat of shellac. After this has hardened, apply two coats of wax. Wax +comes in paste form and is to be applied with a cloth very sparingly. +Allow it to stand five or ten minutes then rub briskly with a soft dry +cloth to polish. The first coat is allowed to stand 24 hours before the +second is applied in a similar manner. + +Another finish, known as an egg-shell gloss shellac finish, is obtained +by omitting the wax and instead applying from two to five more coats of +shellac. Allow each coat 24 hours in which to harden, and rub each +hardened coat to a smooth finish, using curled hair, or fine steel +wool, or fine oiled sandpaper, before applying the next. + +[Illustration: Cedar Chest Complete] + +The metal reinforcements for the corners can be bought at a hardware +store, as can the lock, hinges, and handles. These parts are applied in +the usual manner--butt hinges being used. + +If well made, the chest is practically airtight. The interior is all of +red cedar, while the effect of the exterior in combining the light oak +and the red cedar is striking. + + + + +A TOOL FOR MAKING MORTISES + + +In the construction of mission furniture where mortise joints are mostly +used, those who cannot have access to a mortising machine will find the +following method of great assistance in obtaining a true mortise, which +is necessary in work of this kind. + +[Illustration: Boring Holes for Tenons] + +Take a block of wood, A, the exact thickness of the piece B to be +mortised, and with an auger bore a hole, the same size as the width of +the mortise to be made, exactly parallel to the sides of the block. This +can best be done on a drill press or a wood boring machine. If no +machine is available, great care should be taken in boring by hand, to +get the hole as nearly true as possible. Then nail a cleat, C, on the +side of the block, A, and let it extend down on piece B. Use a clamp to +hold the block in place while boring out the mortise. By changing the +position of the block and boring a number of holes, any length of +mortise can be made. The holes should afterwards be squared up with a +chisel. + + + + +A DRESSER FOR CHILD'S PLAYROOM + + +This dresser can be made of two kinds of wood as marked on the drawing +or it can be made all of one kind. The original dresser was made of oak +and walnut and was finished natural, the contrast between the light and +dark woods adding much to the value of the piece in the eyes of the +little ones. Have all surfaces that will show well sandpapered at the +mill. The following is a list of the material wanted: + + 4 oak posts, 1-1/2 in. square by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 3 walnut drawer fronts, 3/4 by 5 by 17 in., S-2-S. + 6 yellow poplar drawer sides, 3/8 by 5 by 12 in., S-2-S. + 3 yellow poplar backs, 3/8 by 4-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 3 yellow poplar bottoms, 3/8 by 12 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 4 oak front stretchers, 7/8 by 1-3/4 by 17-1/2 in., S-4-S. + 4 oak side rails, 7/8 by 2 by 12 in., S-4-S. + 2 walnut side panels, 1/4 by 11 by 14-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 8 oak drawer slides, 7/8 by 2 by 10-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 6 oak drawer guides, 1/2 by 3/4 by 10-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 4 oak back stretchers, 7/8 by 2 by 17-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 1 oak top, 5/8 by 14 by 20-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 3 sq. ft. of 3/8 in. matched yellow pine ceiling for back. + +MIRROR SUPPORT + + 1 walnut piece, 7/8 by 1-3/4 by 20-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 1 walnut piece, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 18 in., S-2-S. + 1 oak piece, 3/4 by 1-1/4 by 10-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 2 oak pieces, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 11 in., S-2-S. + 1 walnut bracket piece, 7/8 by 1-1/4 by 5 in., S-2-S. + +MIRROR FRAME PARTS + + 2 walnut pieces, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 12-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 2 walnut pieces, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 10-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 2 oak pieces, 1/4 by 3/8 by 10 in., S-4-S. + 2 oak pieces, 1/4 by 3/8 by 8 in., S-4-S. + 1 back, 3/16 by 8 by 10 in., soft wood. + 2 cleats, 3/8 by 1-1/4 by 8 in. + 1 plain mirror glass, 7-1/2 by 9-1/2 in. + +[Illustration: Details of Dresser] + +Begin by planing the four posts to length. The lower ends should be +slightly beveled to prevent their slivering. Cut the mortises for the +tenons that are on the ends of the side rails. These rails are to be 7/8 +by 2 in. and the tenons should be 3/8 by 1-1/4 in. wide by 3/4 in. long. +The posts should be rabbeted down to their middles to a depth of 3/8 +in. so as to receive the 1/4-in. end panels. The end rails should be cut +to length and their tenons worked after one edge of each has been +rabbeted as were the posts. + +[Illustration: Dresser Complete] + +Having squared the panels to size, put the two ends of the dresser +together with glue. Next make the four frames which are to carry the +drawers. They should measure from outside to outside, in length 17-1/2 +in.; in width, 12-1/2 in. It is intended that the short pieces shall be +tenoned into the long ones. When these frames are ready, cut out each +corner as indicated in the cross section drawing. Reduce to size the +drawer guides and fasten them in place. Dowel the frames to the ends of +the dresser in the places indicated on the drawing. Put on the back, +nailing into frames to the ends of the dresser in the places indicated +and fasten the top in place, putting screws into it from the under side. + +The mirror frame and support should next be made. The drawing shows +quite clearly the parts and their relation to each other. All the slopes +are of 45 deg. Instead of rabbeting the mirror frame, a 1/4 by 3/8-in. +fillet of oak is nailed around to form the recess, the walnut frame and +oak fillet making a pretty contrast. All nail holes are to be filled +with putty colored to match the finish. Wooden pins or round-head screws +are to be used to fasten the mirror frame to its support and should be +placed above center an inch or so. + +The drawers are to be constructed in the usual manner. It is a good plan +to make the grooves 1/16 in. narrower than the stock is thick to insure +a fit, chamfering the under or back sides of the bottom and back if +necessary. Make the sides of the drawers of such a length that when the +drawer has been pushed in as far as it will go, the front will be +recessed about 1/4 in. behind the front crosspieces. Groove the inside +of the drawer front 3/16 in. to receive the bottom. The mirror should +not be placed until the wood has been finished. + +[Illustration: DRAWER CONSTRUCTION] + +Finish the wood natural, apply three coats of varnish. Rub the first two +with haircloth or curled hair and the last with pulverized pumice stone +and crude oil or raw linseed oil. This gives an egg-shell gloss. For a +dull finish, rub the varnish after it has become bone dry with +pulverized pumice stone and water, using a piece of rubbing felt. Rub +until the surface is smooth and even, and clean with a wet sponge or +chamois skin. If a polished finish is desired, rub first with pulverized +pumice stone and water, then with rotten stone and water. Finish with a +mixture of oil and a little pulverized rotten stone. + + + + +CUTTING TENONS WITH A HAND-SAW + + +This home-made tool will be a great help in the construction of mission +furniture. With its use, tenons may be entirely cut with a saw, +discarding the use of a chisel and mallet. The device consists of a +convenient length of straight board, A, Fig. 1, wide enough to cover the +widest piece to be tenoned. A piece of board, B, is fastened to A with +brads or small screws. This board should have a thickness equal to the +piece to be cut from the side of the tenon. The piece C is fastened to A +and B with small cleats at their upper ends. The space between B and C +should be wide enough for the blade of a saw to run through easily, and +also long enough to take in the widest part of the saw blade. The tool +and piece to be tenoned are placed in a vise as shown in Fig. 2. The +width of the piece removed for the tenon may be varied by putting in +pieces of cardboard between the work, E, and the piece A, Fig. 1. + +[Illustration: Sawing Tenons] + + + + +ARTS AND CRAFTS OIL LAMP + + +Electricity and gas are not always accessible in suburban or country +homes and the regular type of a mission lamp would be of little use. The +illustration shows an ordinary round wick kerosene lamp fitted out in +mission style. + +[Illustration: Artistic Mission Style Oil Lamp] + +[Illustration: Bronze Shade Holder] + +A few modifications were made in the design of an expensive lamp to +simplify the construction. The lamp should have a tall chimney. The +dimensions given in the drawings, and the photograph, will explain +themselves. Many of the details can be worked up by the maker. + +The body of the lamp is made of 1/2-in. oak and is provided with +openings as shown. The interior receptacle is very handy for holding a +match box, smoking articles, etc. + +A piece of copper band, 1 in. wide, is fastened to the body with large +upholsterers' tacks, to give it a finished appearance. The base is 7/8 +in. thick and in order to prevent tilting is provided with four square +feet, 1/4 in. thick. The top piece of the body is 1/2-in. oak, which is +provided with a hole large enough to receive the bowl of the lamp. If +such a lamp is not at hand, one can be purchased at a very reasonable +price. + +The shade is made of oak frames set in with clouded art glass panels. +The different sections of the frames are fastened together with brass +screws and the glass is held in place by triangular cleats of oak. Be +sure and fit the shade with cardboard panels before ordering the glass. +The cardboard can be used as a pattern in cutting the glass, and the +glass will then fit without recutting, which is quite difficult. + +The glass beaded fringe should be of suitable color to harmonize with +the finished lamp. + +The shade is supported by four brackets cast in bronze from a wood +pattern (dimensions given) and finished by filing, buffing and +lacquering. + + + + +ANOTHER CHINA CLOSET + + +The china closet shown in the accompanying illustration is well +proportioned and of pleasing appearance. It can be made of any one of +the several furniture woods in common use, but quarter-sawed oak will be +found to give the most pleasing effect. The stock should be ordered from +the mill ready sawed to length, squared and sanded. In this way much +hard labor will be saved. The following pieces will be needed: + + 1 top, 1 by 19 by 38 in., S-1-S. + 4 posts, 3/4 by 3 by 59 in., S-2-S. + 4 side rails, 3/4 by 3 by 31 in., S-1-S. + 4 end uprights, 1 by 2 by 48-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 4 end rails, 1 by 3 by 16 in., S-2-S. + 2 lattice rails, 1 by 2 by 13 in., S-2-S. + 1 top board, 3/4 by 3 by 36 in., S-1-S. + 4 side door rails, 3/4 by 2 by 47 in., S-2-S. + 6 cross rails, 3/4 by 2 by 12 in., S-2-S. + 4 slats, 1/2 by 3/4 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 4 slats, 1/2 by 3/4 by 13-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 8 slats, 1/2 by 3/4 by 12-1/2 in., S-2-S. + 4 shelves, 5/8 by 16 by 32 in., S-1-S., poplar. + 4 cleats, 1 in. sq. by 55 in., soft wood. + 4 cleats, 1 in. sq. by 28 in., soft wood. + 4 cleats, 1 in. sq. by 14 in., soft wood. + +[Illustration: China Closet with Latticework Doors and Sides] + +[Illustration: Details of China Closet] + +Having this material on hand, start with the four posts, as they are all +alike. Clamp them together, being careful to have them of the right +length, and the ends square. Trim the bottom, as shown in the detail +drawing, and then lay out the mortises for the front and back rails. +These rails can now be laid out and the tenons cut to fit the mortises +in the posts. The back rails should, in addition, be rabbeted for the +back board as shown. The end rails are fastened to the posts by means of +screws through 1-in. square cleats, fastened on the inside of the posts +as shown in the section A-A. In all cases the screws should be run +through the cleats into the framing so the heads will not show. The end +rails should be rabbeted on the inside for the latticework and the +glass. + +The back board should have the corners rounded as shown and be fastened +to the top board with screws through from the bottom side. The top board +is then fastened to the top rail cleats in the same manner. + +The doors are put together by means of tenons and mortises. The frames +should be rabbeted on the inside for the latticework and the glass. +Leaded glass can be used in place of this latticework, if it is desired. +Suitable hinges and a catch should be supplied. These can be purchased +at any hardware store. + +The shelves should be cut out at the corners to fit around the cleats. +They rest on small blocks which are fastened to the cleats, or if +desired, small holes can be drilled and pins used instead. + +The back is put on in the usual manner. A mirror can be put in without +much trouble if it is desired. + +When putting the frame together, glue should be used on the joints, as +it makes them much stiffer. Be careful to get the frame together +perfectly square, or it will be hard to fit the doors and the glass. +When it is complete, go over the whole carefully with fine sandpaper and +remove all rough spots. Scrape all the surplus glue from about the +joints, as stain will not take when there is any glue. The closet can be +finished in any one of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for +this purpose. + +[Illustration: Oak Bedstead Complete] + + + + +AN OAK BEDSTEAD + + +The accompanying sketches show an artistic design for a mission bed, so +simple in construction and design that most any one that has a few tools +and a knowledge of their use can make it. It is best made of +quarter-sawed oak, as this wood is the easiest to procure and work up +and looks well with any finish. If the stock is ordered from the mill +ready cut to length, squared and sanded, much of the hard labor will be +saved. + +The following is a list of the material needed: + + 2 posts, 2-1/2 by 2-1/2 by 50 in. + 2 posts, 2-1/2 by 2-1/2 by 44 in. + 2 end rails, 1 by 6 by 56 in. + 2 side rails, 1 by 6 by 78 in. + 5 end rails, 1 by 4 by 56 in. + 3 end rails, 1 by 2 by 56 in. + 8 vertical slats, 3/8 by 6 by 11-1/2 in. + 10 vertical slats, 3/8 by 2 by 11-1/2 in. + 2 cleats, 1 by 1 by 78 in. + 5 slats, 3/4 by 3 by 55-1/2 in. + 20 blocks, 1 by 1 by 3 in. + +Square up the four posts in pairs and lay out the mortises as per +drawing. To do this, lay them side by side on a flat surface with the +ends square and mark them with a try-square. The tenons on the end rails +are laid out in the same manner as the posts. Four of the end rails +should be marked and mortises cut for the upright slats as shown in the +detail drawing. The tenons on the end rails are about 1 in. long, while +those on the slats can be 3/4 in. long. Fit all the parts together +before gluing to see that they fit square and tight. After the glue has +been applied clamp them together perfectly square and set them away to +dry. They should dry at least twenty-four hours before the clamps are +removed. + +[Illustration: Details of Oak Bedstead] + +While the ends are drying, the side rails can be made. These have a +1-in. square cleat screwed to the inner side for the slats to rest upon. +If springs are used, five slats will be sufficient. They can be placed +where the springs will rest upon them. After the position of the slats +has been located, nail small blocks at their sides to hold them in +place. For fastening the side rails to the posts, patent devices can be +purchased at a local hardware store. The posts will have to be mortised +to receive these, and care should be exercised to get them in the right +place. + +When the bed is complete go over it carefully and scrape all the surplus +glue from about the joints, as the finish will not take where there is +any glue. Remove all rough spots with fine sandpaper; then apply the +stain you like best, which may be any of the many mission stains +supplied by the trade for this purpose. If this bed is well made and +finished, it will be an ornament to any home. + + + + +AN OAK FOOTSTOOL + + +The footstool shown in the illustration can be made from any kind of +wood, but when it is intended to be finished in mission style, +quarter-sawed oak will produce the best effect. The material needed will +be as follows: + + 1 top, 1 by 9-1/2 by 12 in., S-1-S. + 2 legs, 3/4 by 8 by 12 in., S-2-S. + 1 brace, 3/4 by 7 by 9 in., S-1-S. + +Order these pieces cut to length, squared and sanded. A full-sized +layout of the front view should be made to get the correct bevels for +the legs and brace. The design of the legs can be varied to suit the +fancy of the maker. For such a design as shown draw one-half of it on +paper; fold on the center line and with scissors cut both sides of the +outline by following the lines drawn. Trace around this pattern on the +wood, and saw out with a compass or keyhole saw. The sawed edges should +be smoothed and sandpapered. + +[Illustration: Details of Footstool] + +The perforation in the top board is made by first boring holes, then +trimming out the edges with a sharp chisel. Be sure to get the best side +of the board up. + +[Illustration: Footstool Complete] + +The legs are fastened to the top and to the braces with 1-3/4-in. wood +screws as shown in the detail drawing. After the stool is assembled, go +over it carefully with fine sandpaper and remove all rough spots before +applying the finish. This finish can be any one of the many different +kinds supplied by the trade for this purpose. If this stool is well made +and finished, it will be a useful and attractive article. + +[Illustration: Table and Seat Decorated in Pyro-Carving] + + + + +A LIBRARY SET IN PYRO-CARVING + + +The multitude of indifferently executed small articles which followed +the introduction of pyrography is beginning to disappear, people are +considering the art more seriously and applying it to more dignified +uses. Pyro-carving is one of the new methods of decorating furniture +which is both beautiful and practical, two qualities which do not always +go together. + +The library set illustrated consists of a table, 30 by 50 in., with two +benches, 14 in. wide of the same length. The supports are made of +selected white pine, which must be absolutely free from pitch. The pine +is soft enough to work easily with the point and stands wear much better +than basswood. The tops and braces are made of curly fir, all of the +material must be 2-in. lumber, which dresses to about an inch and a +half. All surfaces, except the faces of the supports, are given a +well-rubbed coat of oil with a little burnt umber, the stain to be +applied directly to the wood without a filler. + +On the outside of the supports the design is drawn in with pencil, the +background is then cut out smoothly with a chisel to the depth of an +eighth of an inch, leaving the decoration in relief. It is then burned +deeply, the background in straight flat strokes, the outlines having the +effect of a sloping, dark edge. The shadows are burned in as deeply as +possible and the shading is put in with the flat of the point. + +A wax or egg-shell oil varnish finish is most suitable for this set. + +[Illustration: Grille for an Arch] + + + + +A GRILLE WITH PEDESTALS TO MATCH + + +The accompanying sketch shows something unique in a grille that adds to +the appearance of a home furnished in mission style. When it is stained +and finished to match the furniture, it gives a consummate tone that +would be difficult to obtain by any other means. + +To get the best results it should be made to blend with the furniture +and the arch in which it is to fit, in both weight and style. This will +depend very much upon one's preference, and for this reason full +dimensions are not given. No difficulty will be experienced, however, by +anyone handy with tools, in making it. + +The material should be quarter-sawed oak, which can be secured planed +and sanded at the mill. For the grille order 1 by 1-1/2-in. and 1/2 by +1-1/2-in. stock. The method of making the bars is shown in the detailed +sketch. The two end bars should be made of solid pieces, 3/4 by 1-1/2 +in., with two rectangular slots mortised in each to receive the +supports. The supports should be just the right length to go in the +arch. To erect, slip the end bars on the supports, hold the grille in +place and fasten the bars to the sides of the arch with screws. + +The size of the pedestals and the connecting pieces will depend upon the +size of the arch. These connecting pieces should be well mortised into +the post, and if you own your own home and intend the pedestals to +become a fixture, they should also be mortised into the sides of the +arch. If not, they may be fastened to the arch with blind screws. The +amount of material required will depend upon the size of the arch. + + + + +A LADY'S WRITING DESK + + +This desk of mission style is a little more complicated than some of the +other pieces of mission furniture that have been described, but anyone +who has a fair knowledge of tools will not have much trouble in +constructing it in the home workshop if the plans are carefully +followed. Quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use, as it is easy to +work and looks best when finished. Order the stock from the mill ready +cut to length, squared and sanded. Following is a list of the stock +needed: + + 2 front posts, 2 by 2 by 30 in. + 2 back posts, 2 by 2 by 50 in. + 1 bottom rail, 3/4 by 3 by 31 in. + 2 end rails, 3/4 by 3 by 18 in. + 1 stretcher, 3/4 by 8 by 33-1/2 in. + 2 end slats, 3/8 by 8 by 15 in. + 1 back slat, 3/8 by 8 by 15-1/2 in. + 2 back slats, 3/8 by 3 by 15-1/2 in. + 1 front drawer rail, 3/4 by 1-1/4 by 31-1/4 in. + 2 side drawer rails, 3/4 by 3 by 18-1/4 in. + 1 drawer front, 3/4 by 6 by 30 in. + 1 desk lid, 3/4 by 18 by 31-1/4 in. + 1 desk board, 3/4 by 19-1/4 by 31-1/4 in. + 2 end boards, 3/4 by 19 by 21-1/4 in. + 1 top board, 3/4 by 10 by 34 in. + 1 top back board, 3/4 by 5 by 31-1/4 in. + 1 back board, 3/4 by 30 by 22 in. + 2 drawer sides, 1/2 by 6 by 19-1/2 in., S.W. + 1 drawer end, 1/2 by 6 by 29 in., S.W. + 1 drawer bottom, 1/2 by 18 by 29 in., S.W. + 2 pieces for pigeon holes, 3/8 by 7 by 23 in., S.W. + 8 pieces for pigeon holes, 3/8 by 4 by 6-3/4 in., S.W. + +Start with the back posts, being sure they are square and of the right +length; place them side by side and lay out the mortises for the lower +rails, the desk rails and the top back boards, as shown in the +accompanying detail drawing. Lay out the front posts in the same manner. +Cut the tenons on the ends of the rails to fit the mortises in the +posts. Also cut mortises in the rails for the back and end slats. The +end rails have a mortise in them for the tenons on the ends of the foot +boards. Clamp the ends of the desk together, with the end rails in +place; then fit the side boards. Bore holes through the posts into the +side boards for dowels as shown. After the dowels are in place the holes +can be plugged. + +[Illustration: Details of Writing Desk] + +Cut and fit the top back board, the bottom rail, the back board and the +stretcher. Cut the top and desk boards at the back corners to clear the +posts. The top board is to be fastened to the side boards with blind +screws. The back board is fastened to the posts with dowels as shown. + +[Illustration: Desk Complete] + +When all the parts fit square and tight they can be glued together. The +ends of the desk should be glued up first and left to dry, then the +other parts put in place and glued. When clamping the parts together see +that they fit perfectly square and tight. While the glue is drying the +drawer can be made. The front board is made of oak, but the other parts +may be made of some soft wood. The side pieces are mortised and glued to +the front board, The end and bottom boards can be nailed together. + +The drop lid of the desk is made as shown. Two or more boards may have +to be glued together for the lid, the desk bottom and the back board. +The lid is fastened to the desk board with two hinges, and it should be +so arranged that when closed it will be even with the sides. Brackets or +chains are fastened to the inside to hold it in the proper position when +it is open. Small blocks of wood fastened to the inner edge of the side +boards will prevent it from closing too far. A lock, if desired, can be +purchased at a hardware store and fitted in place. Suitable handles for +the drawer should also be provided. + +When the desk is complete go over it with fine sandpaper and remove all +rough spots. Scrape all glue from about the joints, as the finish will +not take where there is any glue. + +The pigeonholes are made from 3/8-in. stock. They may be tacked in place +after the desk is finished. + +The finish can be any one of the many mission stains supplied by the +trade for this purpose. If the desk is well made and finished, it will +have a very neat and attractive appearance. + + + + +A TELEPHONE STAND AND STOOL + + +The stand shown in the accompanying illustration is for use with a desk +telephone. The stool when not in use, slides on two runners under the +stand. A shelf is provided for the telephone directory, paper, pencil, +etc. + +[Illustration: Stand and Stool Complete] + +[Illustration: Details of Stand and Stool] + +The joints may be made with dowels, or the mortise and tenon may be +used, as desired. If the latter is decided upon, allowance must be made +on the length of the rails for the tenons. The list given is for the +dowel-made joints. The following stock list gives the amount of material +needed which should be ordered planed and sanded. This work can be done +by hand if the builder has the time and desires to have an entire +home-made article. However, the list is given for the mill-planed +material. + +STAND + + 4 posts, 1-1/2 in. square by 29 in. + 2 rails, 7/8 by 5 by 11 in. + 1 rail, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 13 in. + 1 rail, 7/8 by 5 by 13 in. + 2 runners, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 14 in. + 1 top, 7/8 by 18 by 20 in. + 1 shelf, 7/8 by 12-7/8 by 13-3/4 in. + +STOOL + + 4 posts, 1-1/2 in. square by 17 in. + 4 rails, 7/8 by 4 by 6-1/2 in. + 4 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 6-1/2 in. + 1 stretcher, 7/8 by 4 by 7-1/4 in. + 1 top, 7/8 by 12-1/2 in. square. + +The exact lengths for the posts are given in the list. Should the +builder desire to square them up, allowance must be made for this when +ordering stock. + +Arrange all the pieces in the position they are to occupy in the +finished stand and stool and number all the joints. Locate the centers +and bore holes for all the dowels. Assemble the two sides of the table +first. Notch the runners and fasten them to the posts with flat-head +screws. Use hot glue on the dowel joints if possible. + +Cut the corners out of the shelf to fit the legs and assemble the frame +of the table. Use round-head screws through the rails to hold the shelf. +The top may be fastened in two ways, with screws through cleats on the +inside of the rails and under the top, or with screws slanting through +the upper part of the rails and into the top as shown. The stool, is +assembled in the same manner as the stand. + +The stand and stool should be finished to harmonize with the furniture +and woodwork of the room in which they are to be used. + + + + +HOW TO MAKE A DOWEL-CUTTING TOOL + + +Secure a piece of steel about 1/4 in. thick, 1-3/4 in. wide and 8 in. +long. Drill various sized holes through the steel as shown in Fig. 1, +leaving the edge of each hole as sharp as the drill will make them. Cut +off a block of wood the length necessary for the dowels and split it up +into pieces about the size for the particular dowel to be used. Lay the +steel on something flat, over a hole of some kind, then start one of the +pieces of wood in the proper size hole for the dowel and drive it +through with a hammer, as shown in Fig. 2. The sharp edges on the steel +will cut the dowel as smooth and round as if it were turned in a lathe. + +[Illustration: Easy Way to Make Dowels] + + + + +A MEDICINE CABINET + + +This cabinet is best made of quarter-sawed oak, as this wood is the most +easily procured and looks well when finished. Order the stock from the +mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded. The following pieces will +be needed: + + 4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 28 in. + 4 side rails, 3/4 by 2 by 16 in. + 4 end rails, 3/4 by 2 by 7 in. + 2 door rails, 3/4 by 2 by 15 in. + 2 door rails, 3/4 by 2 by 22-3/4 in. + 1 door panel, 1/4 by 11-1/2 by 19-1/4 in. + 1 back panel, 1/4 by 15-1/2 by 23-1/4 in. + 2 end panels, 1/4 by 6-1/2 by 23-1/4 in. + 2 pieces for top and bottom, 1/2 by 6-3/4 by 15-3/4 in. + +[Illustration: Medicine Cabinet Complete] + +Square the four posts and bevel the tops as shown. + +[Illustration: Details of Medicine Cabinet] + +Cut grooves in them with a plow plane to receive the 1/4-in. panels. The +tenons on the rails are cut 1/4 in. wide and fit into the grooves in the +posts the same as the panels. The rails have grooves cut at the inside +edges for the panels. The front posts do not have grooves on the inside +but have two mortises, one at each end for the top and bottom rails. The +back has a panel fitted in the same as the ends. See that the pieces +fit together perfectly square and tight, then glue them together and +give it time to dry. + +The top and bottom boards are next put in place. The top is placed in +the center of the top rails while the bottom is put even with the lower +edge of the bottom rails, as shown in the detail drawing. The door frame +is mitered at the corners and rabbeted on the inner edge to take the +panel. A mirror can be used in place of the panel if desired. Suitable +hinges and a catch, which can be purchased at a hardware store, should +be supplied for the door. + +The shelves are of soft wood and are to be arranged to suit the maker. +Before applying a finish, go over the cabinet with fine sandpaper and +remove all the surplus glue about the joints and the rough spots, else +the finish will not take evenly. The finish can be any one of the many +different kinds supplied by the trade for this purpose. + + + + +CONTENTS + + +Arm Chair 66 + +Arm Chair, Curved Back 18 + + +Basket, Waste Paper 27 + +Bedstead, Oak 99 + +Bend Wood, How to 40 + +Bookcase 70 + +Buffet, Oak 5 + + +Cabinet, Medicine 116 + +Cedar Chest, Oak-Bound 79 + +Chair, Arm 66 + +Chair, Curved Back Arm 18 + +Chair, Rocking 14 + +Chair, Side 62 + +Chest, Oak-Bound Cedar 79 + +China Closet 47 + +China Closet, Another 94 + +Clock, Arts-Crafts Mantel 52 + +Clock, Plain Oak Hall 10 + +Couch, Oak, with Cushions 33 + + +Desk, Lady's Writing 108 + +Desk, Oak Writing 29 + +Dining Table, Extension 77 + +Dowel-Cutting Tool, How to Make 115 + +Dowel Holes, Tool for Marking 23 + +Dresser for Child's Playroom 85 + + +Electric Shade for Dining Room 37 + + +Footstool, Leather-Covered 50 + +Footstool, Oak 101 + + +Grille with Pedestals to Match 107 + +Hall Clock, Plain Oak 10 + + +Lamp, Arts and Crafts Oil 91 + +Lamp Stand 73 + +Library Set in Pyro-Carving 105 + + +Magazine Table 24 + +Mantel Clock, Arts-Crafts 52 + +Medicine Cabinet 116 + +Mortises, Tool for Making 84 + +Music Stand 55 + + +Oak Stain 9 + + +Plate Rack 21 + +Pyro-Carving, Library Set in 105 + + +Rocking Chair 14 + + +Screws, Making Hold in End Grain of Wood 58 + +Shade, Electric for Dining Room 37 + +Side Chair 62 + +Smoking Stand 43 + +Stain, Oak 9 + +Stand and Stool, Telephone 112 + +Stand, Lamp 73 + +Stand, Music 55 + +Stand, Smoking 43 + +Stool, Telephone Stand and 112 + + +Table, Extension Dining 77 + +Table--Library Set in Pyro-Carving 105 + +Table, Magazine 24 + +Telephone Stand and Stool 112 + +Tenons, Cutting with a Hand-Saw 90 + +Tool, Dowel-Cutting, How to Make 115 + +Tool for Marking Dowel Holes 23 + +Tool for Making Mortises 84 + + +Wall Case with a Mirror Door 59 + +Waste Paper Basket 27 + +Wood, How to Bend 40 + + + + * * * * * * + + + +Transcriber's Notes: + + The Table of Contents was added for the reader's convenience. + + Folio 118: "perfectly" was "perfecly". + + Folio 4 and 81 "mill-planed" was "millplaned". + + Added captions for clarity: + + Folio 27: "A WASTE PAPER BASKET". + + Folio 28: "DETAILS OF WASTE PAPER BASKET". + + Folio 58: "MAKING SCREWS HOLD IN END GRAIN". + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MISSION FURNITURE*** + + +******* This file should be named 23991.txt or 23991.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/3/9/9/23991 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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