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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A War-time Journal, Germany 1914 and German
+Travel Notes, by Harriet Julia Jephson
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A War-time Journal, Germany 1914 and German Travel Notes
+
+Author: Harriet Julia Jephson
+
+Release Date: November 18, 2007 [EBook #23533]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A WAR-TIME JOURNAL, GERMANY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Irma Spehar and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+                          A WAR-TIME JOURNAL
+
+                             GERMANY 1914
+                                  AND
+                          GERMAN TRAVEL NOTES
+
+
+                [Illustration: ENGLISCHE KRIEGSFÜHRUNG
+                  (_How the Englishman makes war._)]
+
+
+
+
+                                   A
+                           WAR-TIME JOURNAL
+                             GERMANY 1914
+                                  AND
+                          GERMAN TRAVEL NOTES
+
+                                  BY
+
+                             LADY JEPHSON
+
+                 AUTHOR OF 'A CANADIAN SCRAP-BOOK' AND
+                       'LETTERS TO A DÉBUTANTE'
+
+                                LONDON
+                      ELKIN MATHEWS, CORK STREET
+                                M CM XV
+
+
+
+
+                                PREFACE
+
+
+Prefaces are rarely read, yet I have the hardihood to venture on this
+one because there are certain things in connection with my journal
+which it is necessary to explain. On returning from Germany, although
+urged by my friends to publish the story of my experiences, I refused,
+fearing to do anything which in the smallest degree might prejudice
+the case of those still in captivity. There came a day, nevertheless,
+when I read that all English people had left "Altheim." The papers
+announced that men under forty-five had been interned at Ruhleben, and
+those over that age had been sent to Giessen. There seemed, therefore,
+no possible object in further withholding the journal, since, after
+all, there was nothing in it which could by any possibility affect the
+fate of others less fortunate than I. Accordingly I sent my manuscript
+to the _Evening Standard_, which accepted it, and published the first
+couple of pages. Then, in deference to the wishes of people whose
+relations were still at "Altheim" (having been sent back from
+Giessen), I stopped my diary. However, in view of the daily
+revelations in the Press as regards prisoners in Germany, I have come,
+after seven months, to the conclusion that nothing I can say will in
+any degree make the condition of prisoners there worse. Meanwhile it
+is of supreme interest to compare the opinions and conduct of Germans
+at the beginning of the war with what they express and observe now. My
+journal is simply a record made each day of my detention, and although
+it has no pretension to being literature, it is at least a truthful
+picture of the state of things as we in Altheim saw them at the
+beginning of the war. For obvious reasons the place of detention has
+been given a fictitious name.
+
+                                           HARRIET J. JEPHSON.
+
+
+
+
+                               CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                            PAGE
+
+A WAR-TIME JOURNAL                                           11
+
+GERMAN TRAVEL NOTES:
+
+  "TAKIN' NOTES"                                             67
+
+  OF SOME FELLOW TRAVELLERS AND THE CATHEDRAL OF MAINZ       76
+
+  SCHLANGENBAD                                               84
+
+  LIEBENSTEIN                                                90
+
+  TRÈVES                                                     96
+
+
+
+
+                         LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+                                                    PAGE
+
+ENGLISCHE KRIEGSFÜHRUNG                        _Frontispiece_
+  (_How the Englishman makes war._)
+
+ENGLAND FINDET HILFSTRUPPEN
+  (_England finds troops to help her._)
+
+  I. IN KANADA                                        17
+    (_Behold the German idea of a Canadian._)
+
+  II. IN POLYNESIEN                                   33
+    (_The German idea of an Australian._)
+
+  III. NUR IN LONDON NICHT                            49
+    _But not in London!_
+
+_These illustrations are reproduced from German newspapers._
+
+
+
+
+                          A WAR-TIME JOURNAL:
+                             GERMANY, 1914
+
+
+VILLA BUCHHOLZ, ALTHEIM, _August 1st._--Last night a herald went round
+the town and roused everyone, blowing his trumpet and crying, "Kommen
+Sie heraus! Kommen Sie alle fort!" This was a call to the reservists,
+all of whom are leaving Altheim. To-day the crowd cheered madly, sang
+"Heil Dir im Sieger Kranz," and "Deutschland über alles," showing the
+utmost enthusiasm. To my horror, I find that the banks here refuse
+foreign cheques, and will have nothing to do with letters of credit. I
+have very little ready money with me, and the situation is not a
+pleasant one!
+
+_August 2nd._--Germany has declared war against Russia! All men old
+enough to serve are leaving to join the army. Proclamations are
+posted up in the Park Strasse, and crowds are standing in tense
+anxiety in groups, discussing matters with grave faces. We don't know
+how to get away, since all trains are to be used only for the troops
+while "mobilmachung" is going on. People have got as far as the
+frontier and been turned back there, and some who left Altheim
+yesterday are still at Frankfort. I tried to buy an English paper in
+the town, and was told that none were to be had until England had made
+up her mind what she was going to do! We think of motor-cars to the
+frontier, or the Rhine boat.
+
+_August 3rd._--Alas! all steamers on the Rhine are stopped and
+motor-cars are impossible, because an order has come out that
+petroleum is to be reserved for the Government. I made another attempt
+to cash a cheque to-day, and again the bank refused. A Russian who
+stood beside me was desperate. He spoke execrable French, and cried
+excitedly: "Comment donc! je ne puis pas quitter le pays et j'ai une
+famille et trois femmes!" Poor Bluebeard! his "trois femmes" (wife and
+daughters) looked terrified and miserable. Our position is incredible
+and most serious. Still, one cannot but admire the glorious spirit of
+sacrifice and patriotism which animates all classes of the German
+people. Just what it was in the war of 1813, when women even cut off
+their hair and sold it to help their country.
+
+_August 4th._--Troops are marching through the streets and leaving for
+the Front all day long. The ladies of Altheim go to the station as the
+trains pass through, and give the soldiers coffee, chocolate, cigars,
+and zwiebacks. They get much gratitude, and the men say (poor deluded
+mortals): "Wir kriegen für Sie" (We fight for you). I saw poor Frau
+G---- (my doctor's wife) to-day. She was quite calm, but looked
+miserable. Her eldest son, Dr. T----, left for the front this morning.
+I sympathised, and she said, choking back a sob: "Man gibt das beste
+für das Vaterland" (one gives one's best for the Fatherland). No
+letters come, nor papers; and we are only allowed to send postcards
+written in German.
+
+_August 5th._--Our baker has gone to the war, and Dr. G---- 's butler;
+the schools have shut up, so many masters having been called upon to
+fight. Even learned professors turn soldiers in this country, and
+most of the weedy cabhorses here have left Altheim to serve their
+"Fatherland." My Bade-Frau's husband has gone to the front, and so has
+our Apotheke; there are no porters left at the station, and a jeweller
+is doing duty as station-master! The Red Cross Society meet daily, and
+make preparations for the care of wounded men. Hospitals, private
+houses, and doctors' houses are getting ready, and all motors have
+been put at the State's disposal. Insane hatred against Russia exists,
+and the Russians here are not enjoying themselves! My position is most
+serious: no money, and no return ticket!
+
+_August 6th._--I went out early in quest of news, and looked in at
+K---- and L----'s. A young clerk, pale with excitement and anger, in
+reply to my question: "Gibt es etwas neues?" literally hissed at me:
+"England hat Krieg erklärt" (England has declared war). It was an
+awful moment, although one was prepared for it in a measure, feeling
+sure that England would be faithful to her bond.
+
+Next came the Press announcements, "Das unglaubliche ist Tatsache
+geworden" (The unbelievable is become an accomplished fact). "England,
+who poses as the guardian of morality and all the virtues, sides with
+Russia and assassins!" Abuse of Sir Edward Grey, of our Government,
+and of all things English, follows. When vituperation fails, the
+"Frankfurter Zeitung" reminds its readers that, after all, such
+conduct is only what may be expected from "Die historische Perfide
+Albions." That it is a blow none the less is shown by more than one
+newspaper beginning "Das Schlimmste ist geschehen." (The worst has
+happened.) Miss M----, Miss H----, and I went to the "Prince of
+Wales's Hotel" to see Mr. S----, who had made out a list of the
+English in Altheim, and tried to telephone to our Consul in Frankfort
+to ask what he was going to do for our rescue. The telephone people
+refused to send the message because we were English! Mr. S---- and
+other men here are doing all they can to secure a train when the
+mobilisation is over. He advised us to pack up and be ready to start,
+also not to show ourselves out of doors much, as there is the greatest
+fury and indignation at present against the English, and to be careful
+what we said and did. We are all terribly anxious, and it is rather
+trying for me, as I am the only woman in the place quite alone.
+
+_August 7th._--Still no help! Innumerable wild rumours are flying
+about. They say that those who left Altheim have all come back, unable
+to get farther than Frankfort. We are beginning to feel hopeless.
+Nothing about England is in the German papers, and, of course, we see
+no others. It is quite terrible being without news. Last night there
+was great scrubbing and scraping of Altheim shop windows, and all the
+notices: "English spoken here" have disappeared.
+
+There is a mania about spies in Frankfort, we hear, and some Americans
+yesterday were very roughly handled because their motor bore a French
+maker's name. The Americans have returned to Altheim, and their motor
+has been taken to fight for the Fatherland! Our situation is dreadful,
+but we are keeping up brave hearts. Every day a fresh "Bekanntmachung"
+(notice) appears; that of to-day was addressed to the children and
+called upon them to gather in the harvest, the workers having gone as
+soldiers and turned their "pruning hooks" into swords. My postcards
+written in German have all come back. One cannot communicate with
+anyone outside Altheim. What a position! God in His mercy help us! It
+seems so strange to see German troops marching to the tune of "God
+Save the King," yet it is Germany's National Anthem too, and these are
+the words they sing to it:--
+
+    "Heil Dir im Sieger Kranz,
+    Herrscher des Vaterlands,
+    Heil Kaiser Dir!" etc.
+
+[Illustration: IN KANADA
+(_Behold the German idea of a Canadian_)]
+
+A "Warnung" has now been affixed to trees in the Avenue forbidding
+Russians, English, French or Belgians to go within 100 metres of the
+station. The Russians are being hardly used, but so far Germans are
+quite nice to us. Mrs. N---- tells me a gruesome tale of a Russian
+lady who left her hotel for Russia smiling, well dressed, and happy.
+At Giessen all Russians were turned out of the train and put into a
+waiting-room, and locked up there without any convenience of food,
+drink, or beds for the night. The following morning they were told to
+come out and soldiers marched them several miles into the country to a
+farm-house. Some of the poor creatures were faint from want of food,
+and others had heart disease, and fell exhausted in the road, the
+soldiers prodding them with their bayonets to make them get up! After
+several hours' detention there, they were brought back to Altheim,
+where the poor lady arrived a pitiable wreck! What an experience! I
+have been packed up for days!
+
+_August 8th._--I went into the Park Strasse this morning to buy a
+"Frankfurter Zeitung." Outside the shop where I bought it some
+American women stood gazing at a map of the war, and one said: "I am
+_disgusted_ with England, just disgusted. So degrading of her to help
+a country like Russia, and side with assassins, just degrading! All we
+Americans despise her now." I thought to myself: "If I go to prison
+for it, I will not allow anyone to call my country 'degraded and
+disgusting.'" So I said, trembling with wrath, "There is nothing
+'degrading' in being honourable, nor despicable in keeping true to
+your word. England promised to protect Belgium's frontier, and she is
+bound to do it."
+
+Several Germans were gathered round the map, and they scowled at me
+until I faced them calmly and said: "Jeder man für sein Land" (Every
+man for his country), and they answered quite civilly: "Gewiss!"
+(Certainly). The Americans in Altheim, I found afterwards, were
+chiefly of German extraction, which accounted for the woman's
+behaviour.
+
+Early this morning three men arrived to search my room for weapons. I
+was in bed, but they pushed past the maid Käthchen, forced their way
+in, pried into every corner, and departed. Emile the housemaid here
+has _four_ brothers at the war. Dreadful rumours are flying about as
+to our destination. One day we hear we are to go to Denmark, another
+to Holland. Sometimes we are told that we shall not be allowed to
+leave Germany until the war is over; again that we shall be sent away
+at a moment's notice; that we shall be left at the frontier, and have
+to walk for six hours, and carry our own luggage, etc.
+
+The German papers are perfectly horrible in their violent abuse of
+England, and we are so miserably anxious, not about ourselves, but
+about our dear, dear country, and how she is faring. Käthchen said
+this morning, "Die deutschen in Ausland sind sehr schlecht behandelt"
+(Germans abroad are very badly treated). "See how well the foreigners
+are treated _here_," by way of impressing upon me how thankful I ought
+to be for my mercies.
+
+_August 9th._--No papers! No news! No letters! No money! All of us are
+more or less packed up ready to start. We are warned that no heavy
+luggage can go with us, and are limited to two small "hand Gepäck,"
+which we can carry ourselves. I have presented my best hats to
+Käthchen, and it consoles me to think how comical she will look under
+them!--but "flying canvas" is the order of the day.
+
+_August 10th._--The "Frankfurter Zeitung" calls England "ehrlos"
+(dishonourable), and the Belgian frontier question "only an excuse,"
+and even kind, good Dr. G---- raged against England. One is sick with
+longing to hear how the war gets on from the English point of view.
+The papers here never allude to England's movements--only to her moral
+delinquencies. I am so poverty-stricken now I wash my own
+pocket-handkerchiefs, guimpes, and blouses!
+
+The American part of our community have quite recovered their spirits
+since money has come for them. The United States is making every
+effort to rescue her people, and get them back in safety to America.
+No one seems to concern themselves about us, and we can't get away
+while mobilising is going on. All Germans show the greatest deference
+to Americans, and call them "our honoured guests." We, of course, are
+the _dis_honoured ones, and in disgrace!
+
+Altheim people so far are passably civil to us, but sometimes one has
+a disagreeable person to deal with, as I had to-day at the Bad Haus.
+The girl who stamps our tickets refused to pass mine until I could
+show her my Kur Karte. I had none, and told her so, and asked her why
+I should pay twenty marks for a card, when I could not get any of the
+privileges to which it entitled me: the band, terrace, reading-room,
+and so on. Her answer was a persistent dogged reiteration of "Sie
+müssen eine Kur Karte haben, sonst können Sie nicht baden," and not
+having twenty marks in the world at present I had to come away without
+my bath. Every day there are fresh appeals to the patriotism of the
+people. They are pasted on walls, windows, and even trees.
+
+_August 12th._--Such an amusing thing has happened. Mr. S---- said to
+Dr. ----, "We English have captured your Kronprinzessin Cecilie,"
+without saying that he meant the _ship_, and not the _lady_. As the
+Government keeps all such disagreeable intelligence dark, it was news
+to the doctor, and he stoutly contradicted it, and went round the town
+afterwards telling people: "Just think what liars the English are;
+they say they have captured our Crown Princess!" We learnt of this
+prize-taking from the "Corriere della Sera."
+
+_August 13th._--The newspapers are full of German victories and abuse
+of England. Also they declare that the most terrible atrocities have
+taken place in Belgium, where women have despatched wounded Germans on
+the field and shot doctors. The indignation is tremendous.
+
+_August 14th._--Permission has at last been given for "Fremden"
+(foreigners) to depart, and also the threats and restrictions as to
+the railway station have been removed, but we must submit our
+passports to the police, who send them to Berlin to be stamped by the
+military authorities, and in about a week we shall be free. "Gott sei
+Dank!"
+
+_August 15th._--I went to the Polizei-Amt, a dreary little house, and
+found both yard and staircase crammed with people. After waiting a
+long time in the _queue_ I had to beat a retreat, the neighbourhood of
+Polish Jews being too overpowering! In the afternoon I ventured again
+with the same result. They say Holland is crammed with refugees, and
+the hotels so full that people are sleeping on billiard tables even.
+We are allowed to choose between Switzerland and Holland.
+
+German papers express deepest disappointment that Italy has not been
+"ehrlich" (honourable) to her "Dreibund," and yet (extraordinary
+people) the Germans blame us for being true to ours.
+
+_August 16th._--I sent a telegram off to Ems this morning, of course
+written in German, but the official behind the little window where I
+handed it in refused to send it until I showed him my passport. As I
+have not yet succeeded in getting through the crowds at the police
+station I still had mine. We hear dreadful tales of hardships endured
+by those who have managed to get away from other places. Some went by
+the Rhine steamers, which are now running, but wherever they passed a
+fortress they were made to go below. As the cabins were not enough for
+all, preference was given to other nationalities, and English people
+had to sit up all night on deck, even in pouring rain. The entire
+absence of news is for us quite terrible. One feels so out of the
+world, not knowing what is happening outside our prison doors. The
+"Frankfurter Zeitung" is full of nothing but boasts and untruths. A
+fresh "Bekanntmachung" has been posted up forbidding us to leave the
+town, and ordering us to be indoors by nine o'clock.
+
+_August 17th._--The Landsturm has been called out and leaves to-day
+for the Front. These men are the last to be requisitioned, being
+elderly.[1] After long waiting among Jews, Infidels, and Turks, I at
+last got entrance to the Chief of Police's office, had my passport
+taken, paid one mark fifty, and was told to come back on Thursday,
+when it would be returned from Berlin. The Chief was a gruff,
+disagreeable old man, who, to my amiable "Guten Tag" and "Adieu"
+vouchsafed no reply.
+
+    [Footnote 1: This we were told at the time.]
+
+_August 18th._--A dreadful blow! We English are forbidden to go to
+Holland, and told that our destination is to be Denmark. Imagine
+crossing that mined sea now! For reasons of their own German
+authorities will not allow any of us to go by or near the Rhine.
+
+_August 19th._--The German Press is to me a revelation of bombast,
+self-righteousness, falsehood, and hypocrisy. What shocks one most is
+the familiar and perpetual calling upon God to witness that He alone
+has led the Germans to victory and blessed their cause. I read a poem
+yesterday, which began "Du Gott der Deutschen," as if indeed the Deity
+were the especial property of the German Nation! Massacre, pillage,
+destruction, violation of territory, everything wicked God is supposed
+to bless! What hideously distorted minds, and where is the sane, if
+prosaic Teuton of one's imaginings! I wake often in the morning and
+wonder if all that has happened here has not been a horrible
+nightmare--if it can be possible in the twentieth century that I, a
+woman, am a prisoner, and for no sin that one has committed. I cannot
+order an Einspänner and drive to the station without a challenge and
+danger. I cannot possibly get away without my passport. If I attempted
+to drive to the Rhine my fate might be that of the poor Russians who
+were shot the other day. In any case I could not leave Germany without
+my passport nor enter Dutch territory without permission from the
+Netherlands Consul at Frankfort. It seems all hopeless and
+heartbreaking.
+
+_August 20th._--Another terrific blow! Fraulein S---- came into my
+room this morning and said: "Kein Engländer, kein Ausländer, kann
+Deutschland verlassen" (no Englishman, no foreigner can leave
+Germany). I rushed off immediately to the Polizei Amt and found it
+only too terribly true. Worse! Mr. W---- and Mr. S----, who tried to
+arrange for a steamer on the Rhine to take us away, have been
+arrested, and are being tried on a trumped-up charge of _forgery_, and
+the Company who were the go-betweens demand 3,000 marks because the
+boat came a certain distance down the river in order to embark us.
+
+(_Later_) The Englishmen have been acquitted of forgery, but we fear
+we shall have to pay the £120. I have one mark left!
+
+There is jubilation all over the town as the Germans have taken
+Belfort. Käthchen enters triumphantly. "Unter Führung des Kronprinzen
+von Bayern haben Truppen gestern in Schlachten zwischen Metz und den
+Vogesen noch einen Sieg erkämpft," and she goes on with the weary old
+story of "viele tausend Gefangene" (many thousand prisoners).
+
+_August 21st._--I found that charming old American friends of mine,
+the W----s, were here, and I went to see them at the Grand Hotel. They
+have been to a Nach Kur in Thuringia, and have had most alarming and
+unpleasant adventures coming back. However, being American their pains
+and penalties are nearly over. A special train is to take them and
+their compatriots to the Hague on Wednesday next. They go to the
+flesh-pots of Egypt, and we are left to eat manna in the wilderness!
+They can drive in the country, while we poor Britishers may not go
+outside the town, and oh! how sick we are of the avenues and streets
+of the red-roofed Bath Houses and shop windows whose contents we know
+by heart. Mr. W---- told me a good tale of the _chef_ of a Hotel here,
+who was obliged to obey his country's call and join the French forces.
+When he found German bullets whizzing about him at Mülhausen, he said
+to himself (so the story goes), "What is my duty? Is it best for me to
+let these cursed Germans make an end of me, or live to cook another
+day for my country?" He decided that living was his game, threw his
+rifle away, lay flat on his face, and let the bullets whistle over
+him. He was taken prisoner to his great relief, and now lies in
+Frankfort prison where his German brother chef has visited him! The
+French of course are a brave nation, but I daresay the poor cook was
+more at home with his pots and pans than with bayonets and rifles!
+
+No papers! no letters! no news! no chance of escape! Two men were put
+in prison yesterday for laughing at Germany. Two Russians were stopped
+in a motor car, and when arms were found upon them they were put up
+against a wall and shot.
+
+_August 22nd._--Altheim has gone mad with joy over the victory near
+Metz. Church bells chime and German children sing "Deutschland über
+Alles" _ad nauseam_; and the Kur Haus and all private dwellings are
+draped with bunting. Red Cross people are busy preparing for the
+wounded--sewing classes are held every day in Bad Haus 8, and the
+doctors are full of work. Mr. S----, a young Englishman, formerly in
+the army, has been arrested, and also the hall-porter of the "Grand,"
+and two English valets.
+
+_August 24th._--A terrible day! First of all Käthchen announced with
+complacency and obvious triumph, that there had been a great victory
+"ganz herrlich!" and that an English Cavalry Brigade had been cut to
+pieces at Lunéville, and that those who were not killed had "run
+away"! Of course I did not believe this, but it made one terribly
+anxious. Then in came Miss H---- saying that two men of our little
+colony had been arrested and taken to the police-station, whence after
+examination they were to be sent to Frankfurt. At the Polizei Amt the
+Officials exhibited the results of their _Kultur_ by being rude and
+rough to the unfortunate people arrested. A Polish woman whose son had
+been made prisoner sobbed and cried, whereupon the grim old inspector
+came into the room and said sternly: "Kein Frauen Jammer hier!"
+ordering her out of the room. I was in the Park Strasse and heard some
+Germans chuckling and saying: "Zwei Engländer sind verhaftet" (two
+Englishmen are arrested), looked round, and saw two of our little
+community, both service men, following each other in Einspänners, each
+surrounded by soldiers and fixed bayonets. It was anything but a
+pleasing sight to me!
+
+_August 25th._--The clouds are lifting, thank God! Cheering news has
+come that we are to be allowed to leave this delightful country in
+eight days' time; most likely we shall have to travel either by way of
+Switzerland or Denmark. Those sagacious personages in Berlin seem to
+imagine that the secrets of the Rhine fortresses will reveal
+themselves to us as we go by! What a compliment to our powers of
+clairvoyance!
+
+Fraulein G---- has just been in to see me. Usually she is a most
+pleasant, gentle little woman, kind and charming; now she is full of
+scorn and hatred of England. She says the Englishmen were arrested
+because they were heard to say that German papers were "full of lies."
+"So they are," said I, "and you can go now and get me arrested too."
+"Oh, no," said she, "I would not tell on _you_!" In spite of her
+magnanimity I cannot think our interview was a success. We argued
+until I said, "If we are to remain friends, we must not discuss the
+war. I _can_not think England wrong, and as a loyal German you think
+Germany right. Don't let us talk about it any more."
+
+The "Frankfurter Zeitung" declares that no workmen in England will
+fight for their country, only the "mercenaries" who are well paid to
+risk their lives. Oh, this life is hard to bear! Such intense,
+frightful hatred speaks in every look, in every action of our enemies.
+It is consoling to remember that their own Nietzsche says: "One does
+not hate as long as one dis-esteems, and only when one esteems an
+equal or superior."
+
+_August 26th._--A chauffeur at the Bellevue was arrested to-day and
+taken to Frankfort. He is only twenty, a Glasgow lad, and absolutely
+harmless.
+
+I am so sick of "Heil Dir im Sieger Kranz" that as the children pass
+my villa shouting it or "Was ist des Deutschen Vaterland?" I go out on
+my balcony and retaliate by singing "Rule Britannia." Small children
+with flags and paper cocked hats, toy swords and tiny drums march
+through the streets, day after day, singing patriotic songs, whilst
+(poor dears!) their fathers are being slaughtered in thousands. No
+reverses are ever reported in the German papers, nothing but victories
+appear, and Germans are treated like children. If it were not for the
+"Corriere della Sera" we should be tempted to believe the Allies in a
+bad way. The "beehrte gäste" departed this morning. At the station a
+band played, flags were waved, and every American man and woman was
+presented with a small white book which contained the telegrams which
+passed between the belligerent nations at the beginning of the war.
+Again we hear that Copenhagen is to be our destination.
+
+[Illustration: IN POLYNESIEN
+(The German idea of an Australian)]
+
+_August 27th._--I saw Dr. G---- this morning. He begged me to be most
+careful what I said. Two patients of his (English) Levantines were
+talking on the Terrace, and one said to the other, "We had better
+shave off our moustaches, or we shall be taken for military men." They
+were promptly arrested, having been overheard by a spy. We are now
+ordered to get health certificates, which are to go to Frankfort, and
+be forwarded to the military authorities in Berlin. There is an idea
+that we may go away on Tuesday next. We have found out that our
+passports never went to Berlin at all, but are lying at this moment in
+the drawer of that old demon in the "Polizei-Amt."
+
+_August 28th._--Nothing new. The German papers, as usual, full of
+their victories and their piety, and their patriotism, and their
+"Kultur," and goodness knows what not besides. Both Kaisers praising
+each other and distributing iron crosses _ad lib._, early though it be
+in the day. No mention of English troops or England, except to abuse
+the "Verflüchte" English.
+
+A train of wounded men arrived yesterday, and bandaged and lame
+soldiers are to be seen limping about the town, looking ghastly pale
+and ill. At the Lazarett behind the "Prince of Wales' Hotel" there are
+many sad cases. The Red Cross Society has made every provision for
+their comfort and happiness possible. Sheets have been hemmed, pillow
+cases sewn, bandages got ready. The Germans, however, are chary of
+admitting English women to share their labours, and those who go and
+offer to help meet with a very chilly reception.
+
+_August 29th._--An account has come of the battle of St. Quentin. The
+"Frankfurter Zeitung" calls it "decisive," and says that the German
+army has cut off the English army from its base.
+
+_August 30th._--Joy at last! Even the "Frankfurter Zeitung"
+acknowledges that there has been a fight in the North Sea, and that we
+have sunk German ships, but, of course, it was "overpowering numbers
+and larger ships" that did it, and the Germans covered themselves with
+glory as usual. I came home and hung out my flag, the best I could do,
+a red silk dressing jacket, lined with white, and draped over a blue
+silk parasol, which I tied knob out, to look like a pole.
+
+On our church door to-day was posted a typewritten notice: "We have
+smashed your army on the French Continent,(!) and we will smash _you
+too_ if you dare to ring your bell!"
+
+_August 31st._--I heard a small boy singing to-day:
+
+    "Wo liegt Paris, Paris liegt Hier,
+    Den fingen drauf' Das nehmen Wir."
+
+I pray it may not prove prophetic, but they all talk of occupying
+Paris as a certainty, and the German Emperor has invited a number of
+his Generals to dine with him there on the 12th of September. I hear
+that a doctor went into the Prince of Wales' Hotel to-day, and saw
+stuck up in the hall the words: "Das Seegefecht in der Nordsee" (in
+which of course we were victorious). He tore it down and stamped on
+it. An altruistic German waiter thinking to please the English guests
+had put the first sheet of the "Frankfurter Zeitung" in a prominent
+position to console them for the many defeats we are supposed to have
+had. John Burns' speech at the Albert Hall is reported in full in the
+German newspapers, headed "Eine Rede des ehemaligen Englischen
+Minister, John Burns. England gegen seine wahren interessen" (a speech
+of the former English minister,[2] John Burns. England against her
+true interests). No passports yet! No release! This suspense is
+wearing!
+
+    [Footnote 2: This speech I have since learnt was an absolute
+    invention.]
+
+_September 1st._--The sentimentality of the Germans is amazing! They
+cannot even insert a simple notice of a death on the battlefield
+without this sickly parade, "Heute starb den Heldentod furs Vaterland,
+unser innigste-geliebter einziger Sohn," etc. Always a "hero's death"
+and "for his Fatherland." A fresh "Bekanntmachung" has appeared, we
+prisoners of war are not to leave the town, not to stand in groups
+("rotten" they call it) talking in the streets, to be in our houses at
+9 p.m., etc. Two ex-Frankfort prisoners have been sent for by the
+Chief of the Police accused of indiscreet talking. "I hear," said the
+great man, "you say you were fed on nothing but bread and water in
+prison." "No," said Mr. ----, "I had soup in the middle of the day,
+and coffee and bread at night, and in the morning." "Then why do you
+tell lies!" Such utter childishness, to believe every scrap of unkind
+gossip!
+
+_September 2nd._--We are buoyed up with hope, as they talk of our
+getting away this week! It _will_ be delightful to leave this
+perpetual bell-ringing and flag-waving and Vaterlandslieder behind us!
+
+_September 3rd._--The whole of Altheim went mad last night,
+processions, bands, marchings all night, and such a noise that at last
+a nurse had to come out from the Lazarett near the Park and beg the
+revellers to think of the poor wounded sick, and spare them. No one
+could sleep! The last blow has come, our church is closed!
+
+_September 4th._--Despair! The American Ambassador at Berlin has
+telegraphed that we English are not to leave! The Russians are going,
+but our treatment is retaliatory, because they say England is
+detaining German women, and Russia lets them go. To make all worse
+Fraulein S----, tired of keeping me so long for nothing, has given me
+notice to quit at the moment when for three days I have had no greater
+fortune than 2_d._ in my pocket. Where I am to go, or who will take me
+in without money I can't imagine! The American Ambassador in Berlin
+and Mr. Ives, the American Vice-Consul at Frankfort, are working
+untiringly and most kindly for us. We do not complain of actual harsh
+treatment, although to be turned adrift in the world without money by
+one whose tenant I had been for five years is hardly kind. However,
+war is war undoubtedly. Mr. Ives is from the Southern States, Mr.
+H----, his Chief, from the Northern. The Scotch chauffeur has been
+released after a week in prison. He looks pale and dispirited, "a
+sadder," and no doubt "a wiser man."
+
+_September 5th._--The "Times" of the 5th August has turned up in
+Altheim. It has gone the round of our little community until such a
+worn, creased remnant reached me, that I had much ado to keep it
+together until I could master its contents. One felt a second Rip Van
+Winkle, awaking after a long sleep, our world being so confined here.
+At last I have discovered how to get money from England. One writes to
+the American Embassy in Berlin, and encloses a telegram (with postal
+order for the same) to one's banker in London, instructing him to pay
+the sum of money wanted to the American Embassy in London, to be
+forwarded through their kind offices to the Embassy in Berlin. The
+telegram to be written on a sheet of foolscap paper, with the full
+name and address of the sender, and the name also of the nearest
+American Consul. No letters can be sent through this channel.
+
+_September 6th._--No church now! Even that taken from us! The
+American Vice-Consul has been here, and still thinks that we may get
+away in a fortnight. We are sick with hoping and being disappointed.
+The German Press full of the most virulent abuse of England,
+"treacherous," "hypocritical," "lying," "cowardly," "boastful," there
+is no bad name they don't call her! Russia and France and Belgium get
+no lashings of scorn and fury and hatred such as England does! At last
+the account of Sir Edward Goschen's interviews with Von Jagow and
+Bethmann Hollweg has appeared in the German papers. I had read it all
+in the "Corriere della Sera" long ago. They talk of stopping Italian
+papers in Germany since they are pro-English (in German, "lying").
+
+Most of my English friends here went to the German church to-day. The
+Pfarrer pointed out to his congregation how clearly God had favoured
+their cause, how victory had followed victory, the virtuous, religious
+people triumphing over the wicked, ungodly nations. Then he spoke of
+the day so near when Germany should annihilate the "Macht von
+England," and teach her when crushed and humbled "die Wahrheit,"
+Religion and Morality! Humph!
+
+_September 7th._--Wonder of wonders! no bell-ringing to-day, nor
+processions of singing youngsters, so we hope there is a lull in the
+"Sieges."
+
+Miss H---- went last week to have her hair washed, and during the
+process her hair-dresser remarked casually to her, "We shall be in
+Paris in a day or two, and in London in another week, and when we have
+conquered England as well as France you will all have to learn to
+speak German." This shows the amazing conceit and arrogance of the
+people. Poor, ignorant things, they are quite hoodwinked by their
+rulers--and even look forward to seeing their Kaiser "Emperor of
+Europe"! One day we read that a bag has been made of 30,000 Russians,
+the next that the number was understated, and that it is 70,000. As
+for Belgians and French, every day 10,000 men and guns _ad lib._ are
+captured, and the poor silly people believe it all. Villas and streets
+are still beflagged, and by this time we know every patriotic song in
+the "Vaterlandslieder" book by heart. One tries to be plucky, but our
+hearts are very sad just now.
+
+Paris seems doomed, and apparently the French have abandoned hope
+too, since Poincaré and his Cabinet have gone to Bordeaux. The German
+Press call him a "Feiger" (Coward).
+
+_September 9th._--Unaccountably the forward march seems to have been
+checked, although we don't know why. Maubeuge has fallen, and of
+course the usual bell-ringing and bunting and singing has celebrated
+the victory. We cannot understand what our troops are doing. There is
+no mention of them in the German papers, only columns of sneers and
+abuse of England.
+
+_September 10th._--A rumour has reached us that the Crown Prince has
+been captured, and that the enemy is retreating. No official
+confirmation has come to hand however; but the flags are down at last,
+and the jangling of bells has ceased, and we have not heard
+"Deutschland über Alles" for twenty-four hours, "Gott sei Dank"!
+Prince Joachim is wounded, and he has sent a telegram worded after the
+manner of his dear Papa, thanking God who in His goodness permitted
+him to be wounded for his beloved Fatherland. I wonder what Frederick
+the Great would have thought of these boastful warriors. We English
+are looked upon with horror as the brutal barbarians who use dum dum
+bullets, and Sir Edward Grey's dignified disclaimer is reported under
+the polite heading "Grey leugnet" (Grey lies).
+
+_September 11th._--Nothing new in the situation, but we rejoice to see
+grave faces and groups looking solemn in the streets, and talking in
+subdued voices, and thank God! we hear no bell-ringing! Everything
+cheering we read in the "Corriere della Sera" is denied in the
+"Frankfurter Zeitung" or given as a production of the "Lügen Fabrik"
+(manufactory of lies).
+
+_September 12th._--The Germans seem depressed, no flags, no bands, and
+although there is a notice posted up in the town to say that the Crown
+Prince has achieved another victory, there is evidently something
+unsatisfactory in the background to counterbalance this. I draw
+deductions from the "Frankfurter Zeitung," which has a bitter article
+entitled "Torheiten" (Folly), and which speaks of the "Kindische
+Freudengeheul" (childish howls of joy) of the English and French
+Press, because "ein parr Kalonnen deutscher Soldaten ein Stuck weges
+zurückgezogen haben" (two columns of German soldiers had withdrawn a
+bit of the way back). Then the writer contrasts the boastful words
+("prahlender wörte") of England with the self-restraint and pious calm
+and virtuous behaviour of Germany. One has only to look at the
+postcards in the Park Strasse to see which of the combatants is
+boastful. England is drawn as ignominiously lying on the ground (when
+she isn't running away) and Germany invariably is kicking or thrashing
+her.
+
+People are less friendly than at first, though the bath attendants,
+people in the Inhalatorium, and doctors are most kind. I had tea at
+Müller's with Miss H---- the other day. There were at least thirty
+empty chairs in the tea-room, but a German woman marched up to the
+chair on which I had laid my daily newspaper, and ordered me to take
+it off, as she must have my chair! She was stout and ugly, and had a
+way of doing her hair which, as a writer says, "alone would have
+proved impeccable virtue in the face of incriminating circumstantial
+evidence." For all their "Kultur" Germans are gross, and to the last
+degree inartistic. Their "_nouveau art_" is repulsive; their dressing
+outrageously ugly, and their cooking atrocious. I have watched them
+here year after year tramping up and down the shady walks stolidly
+drinking, wearing garments of ingeniously devised ugliness and blind
+to "_l'inutile beauté_." There is no variety of type nor individuality
+of person in either men or women. These worthy _Hausfrauen_ have no
+grace of dainty frills, diaphanous lace or rustling petticoats. They
+are obviously and incontestably of the class described by a witty
+writer to whom "a lace petticoat is as much a badge of infamy as a
+cigarette on the stage." The German proletariat cannot be susceptible
+to externals, else the universal sad-coloured skirt, the ill-fitting
+blouse and the ugly hat worn by his women-folk could not find favour
+in his eyes.
+
+Life in Altheim has changed under war conditions. The Kur Haus is
+closed, there are no teas on the Terrace or promenadings to the
+strains of Grieg or Strauss, or theatrical performances. The German
+Kur-Gäste have left, and only the Russian, English and a few Belgian
+prisoners of war remain. Russians here are chiefly of a very low
+class. Most of the women go about bareheaded, and all are rough and
+unkempt and dirty-looking. I fancy some of them have suffered much
+privation, but happily their order of release has come. They will have
+to travel by Denmark, Sweden and across to Petrograd. The weather is
+autumnal, and they have only summer clothes, like us. We cannot help
+them, having so little money ourselves. I have had to borrow twice,
+and tried to sell my jewellery without success, but I have developed a
+latent and unsuspected talent for laundry work. The pretty summer
+shops in the Park Strasse are now closed, and the sound of beating
+mattresses is heard everywhere; the blinds of most of the villas are
+drawn down, and the families having no longer lodgers have descended
+to their winter quarters on the ground floor. Only a few _einspänners_
+are left, as both _Kutschers_ and horses are gone to meet a
+"Heldentod" for their Fatherland.
+
+One sees white-capped nurses and Red Cross Ambulance men and wounded
+and bandaged warriors everywhere. When recovered, the soldiers get
+three days leave to visit their families, and then return to the
+Front. Poor souls! Shops are chiefly tended by women nowadays, and
+the German Frau is not a capable shopkeeper like the French woman. A
+"Drogerie" here is presided over by the wife of the man who owns it,
+in his absence at the war. She is a gentle, rather pretty creature,
+but amazingly slow and stupid. If tooth-powder be asked for, she
+mounts a ladder, searches among a hundred bottles, shakes her head
+despairingly, and wonders where her "Mann" has put it. Outside her
+Küche and house, the German woman does not shine, but she is a
+faithful unselfish wife, and a good and affectionate mother. Mr. Ives
+thinks we shall certainly get away next week. I hope so! The weather
+is cold and rainy, and there is no fire-place in my room.
+
+_September 13th._--The Altheim daily papers complain that they are
+inundated with foolish questions over the telephone. "Ist Namur
+belgisch oder französisch?" (Is Namur Belgian or French?)
+
+"Gehen die Schottländer wirklich mit nackten Beinen in die Schlacht?"
+(Do the Highlanders really go into battle with naked legs?)
+
+"Wie lange wird es ungefähr dauern, bis die Deutschen Paris
+eingenommen haben?" (How long will it be before the Germans have
+taken Paris?) and so on.
+
+_September 14th._--Again rumours of our going, but even though release
+will be most welcome, we all dread the journey. Terrible tales come to
+us of the treatment meted out to foreigners crossing the frontier.
+Many English were turned out of Wiesbaden and sent here. At F---- they
+had their luggage searched, and the ladies of the party were stripped
+to the skin by women who even combed their hair to see if by any
+ingenuity they had concealed plans and drawings in the puffs and
+coils, two soldiers with fixed bayonets mounting guard meanwhile
+outside. No doubt we shall remember this journey to the end of our
+lives, but what can you expect from a people whose Prophet Nietzsche
+says, "What is more harmful than any vice? Pity for the weak and
+helpless--Christianity!"
+
+_September 15th._--The singular absence of humour of the Germans often
+amuses me. I think it was Palmerston who described Germany as "that
+land of damned Professors." They are all so desperately in earnest,
+and their "Kultur" is so serious, that jokes and fun seem like
+blasphemy. My penury has again been relieved by Mr. S----'s kind loan
+of £1. Lady M---- came in to tell me that the American Vice-Consul had
+telegraphed to Mr. W---- the good news that we are all to go on
+Monday, Tuesday or Wednesday next. I have heard this story so often
+that I am utterly sceptical. We conclude that things are going badly
+for the enemy, since there is no bell-ringing, and the flags have been
+taken in.
+
+[Illustration: NUR IN LONDON NICHT
+(_But not in London!_)]
+
+_September 16th._--I hear that no men who have served in the Army or
+Navy are to be allowed to go with us. To-day's "Frankfurter Zeitung"
+thinks that England must be at her last gasp, or she would not have
+"barbarians such as Indians, Japanese and _Highlanders_" fighting her
+battles for her! They also declare on "unimpeachable evidence" that
+India is in a state of revolt, and that the Japanese are to be
+despatched at once to quell the rebellion. Any misfortune to the
+British delights them.
+
+_September 17th._--The B----s, who to our envy have received special
+passes to go to Denmark, got as far as Hamburg and then had their
+passports taken from them. The Chaplain and his wife disappeared one
+morning, and we learn that he obtained a special pass on the ground of
+being a clergyman. He was heard to utter something about the "Bishop
+of London," and perhaps that was the talisman. Lady M---- tells me
+that they have arrived in Hamburg, we wonder what their fate will be!
+
+A delightful story has just reached me from an Italian source. In the
+church of a Convent Hospital in France, one of the sisters was
+praying aloud with immense fervour, and when she came to the
+"Confiteor" she said: "C'est ma faute! c'est ma faute! c'est ma très
+grande faute," whereupon uprose a Turco crying out: "Ah! non! ma
+Soeur! c'est la faute à Guilleaume!"
+
+_September 18th._--A letter at last! but only one from the American
+Consul at Frankfort, saying that the Foreign Office wanted to know my
+whereabouts as several friends had inquired about me and my safety. I
+can't imagine why, when America rescued her stranded citizens long
+ago, and sent them money to get home, we should be suffering like
+this. Nothing more about the phantom train! Our nerves are becoming
+wrought up, and we are developing unexpectedly irritable and
+argumentative natures. The weather is amazingly windy and horribly
+cold, one shivers in summer garments, and cannot afford to buy warmer
+things. A leading article in the "Frankfurter Zeitung" gives us a
+grain of comfort, since it is headed "Geduld und Zuversicht" (patience
+and confidence), and begins,
+
+"In consequence of the victorious news of the first weeks, those
+remaining at home had become accustomed to constant victories, and
+the pause in the news of the battlefield of the West is a great trial
+of patience." Long may that trial last! On the whole we ought to be
+thankful that we are in Hesse and not in Prussia. The Hessians are a
+simple, kindly people, pleasant, and good tempered. I have known
+Germany well for eighteen years. When first we travelled in the
+Fatherland I found each Duchy, or Kingdom, or Principality, devoted to
+its own particular Ruler, and little outside it mattered to its
+people. Nowadays there are no Hessians or Würtembergers, not even
+Saxons or Bavarians, but all are Germans, and for one photograph of
+the Grand Duke of Hesse and his Duchess you will see here one hundred
+of "Unser Kaiser" and "Unsere Kaiserin." They have become
+Imperialists, and the ambitious spirit which animates them is shown by
+the act of a soldier at Liège who chalked up on a wall: "Kaiser
+Wilhelm the Second, Emperor of Europe."
+
+I have now 2_d._ left in the world, and have not taken my inhalation
+for two days, not being able to pay for it. The money I telegraphed
+for has not yet come, and life seems very difficult! I think of the
+old lines:
+
+    "'Tis a very good world we live in,
+    To lend, or to spend, or to give in;
+    But to beg, or to borrow, or get a man's own,
+    'Tis the very worst world that ever was known."
+
+_September 19th._--At the eleventh hour and when I seemed at the end
+of my resources, help came from a most unexpected quarter! I can never
+cease to be grateful for the goodness and kindness which relieved my
+distress. The Germans look downcast, the Russians jubilant. How
+paternal this Government is no one who has not lived in Germany can
+imagine. For instance, above the nearest pillar box I saw a notice
+written "Don't forget address and stamps!"
+
+_September 20th._--Our passports are now in the hands of the military
+authorities at Frankfort, and Mr. Ives, the American Vice-Consul, is
+doing all in his power to get us leave to go. The Superintendent of
+the Inhalatorium is most kind and sympathetic. She inquired why I had
+not been there for three days, and when I told her "Gar kein Geld" (no
+money) was the cause, she cried with real feeling, "Schrecklich!"
+(terrible). Any thing to do with money or the want of it appeals to
+the Teutonic mind, although the Germans sneer at us for being a nation
+of shopkeepers. There are two words we hope never to hear again,
+"Kultur" and "Unser." "Unser Deutschland," "Unser Kaiser," "Unser
+Kultur." How weary and trite are these! What an extraordinary mixture
+the Germans are, brave, conceited, sentimental, prosaic, patriotic,
+and yet no people so soon lose their national characteristics, and
+become citizens of another country as Germans. Many of their
+intellectual poses are absolutely morbid. They adore Ibsen as a
+playwright and despise Goldsmith and Sheridan; they worship Gauguin,
+and the school of Impressionists, and have little appreciation
+nowadays for pre-Raphaelitism. They are intensely and truly musical,
+and it is amazing, taking into consideration their extraordinary lack
+of humour, that they should be such accomplished students of
+Shakespeare, but of real wit or humour the German possesses not an
+atom. Take, for instance, the modern novels of Suderman, of Rudolph
+Herzog, of Rudolph Stratz, of Bernard Kellerman, of Paul Heyse, and
+you will find intense seriousness, tragedy, pathos, masterly drawing
+of character, and absolutely no fun from cover to cover. As for the
+"Fliegende Blätter," the German "Punch," it is the sickliest imitation
+of humour possible to conceive. Foremost in science, the German is yet
+a neophyte in the graces and arts of life. What cooking! what clothes!
+
+_September 22nd._--If we may believe such good news we are to be
+released from this irksome life, and set at liberty next Saturday. Our
+joy is much damped, however, by hearing that none of the men are to be
+allowed to leave, and, of course, their wives stay with them. Mr. Ives
+has made a special journey to Berlin on behalf of our poor men, but
+the authorities are obdurate.
+
+People say that the loss of life in this terrible war is beyond belief
+as far as the Germans are concerned. To hide this the Emperor requests
+that no one shall wear mourning for the dead until the war is over.
+Also, no complete catalogues of casualties are issued, only lists for
+each kingdom, or duchy, so that the bulk of the people have no idea of
+the waste of life. The wounded being so numerous, the doctors now have
+little time to attend to them on the spot, and therefore they are put
+into trains and sent off to "Lazaretts" sometimes before even their
+wounds are washed. A Belgian lady who had a special police permit to
+go to Frankfort, returned this afternoon in a train full of wounded
+soldiers. One of these was put into her carriage. He had been badly
+shot in the arm; his sleeve was soaked with blood, and that had
+coagulated; his wound had never been washed, and French earth was
+still on his boots, and yet he had been sent in this condition from
+Rheims to Giessen!
+
+_September 23rd._--Terrible news! A telegram was posted up in the town
+this morning, saying that three English "Panzerkreuzers" had been sunk
+by one German submarine. Of course the church bells pealed, and the
+flags came out, and the children sang "Nun danket alle Gott," because
+950 brave Englishmen had gone under. We are much depressed, and our
+depression is aggravated by the want of occupation here. We dare not
+sketch for fear of being "verhaftet" (arrested). It is no good writing
+because every scrap of paper will be taken from us on the frontier;
+nobody I know plays bridge, and so I read and walk all day long. Miss
+H---- tells me that a rude young clerk in the "Löwen-Apotheke" refused
+to talk English to her this morning, "You will have to learn German
+now, because we shall be in London within a fortnight," said he! No
+German I have yet known foresees any other result of this war but
+success. The Fatherland Commissariat, according to the Italian papers,
+leaves much to be desired. The unfortunate soldiers are almost
+starving, and often live for days together on raw carrots, turnips,
+herbs, or any other vegetable they can root up out of the ground. The
+doctors are puzzled because men have died of such seemingly slight
+wounds. One case seemed so incomprehensible that an autopsy was
+decided on, and a raw root with fragments of earth upon it was found
+in the poor creature's stomach. The Russians left at 5 a.m. this
+morning, men and women. It is more than hard that our poor men should
+be left behind. Lady M----, who has been ill, and her daughter, an
+invalid lady, and her maid, were given special passes to go a couple
+of days ago. Miss M---- and Miss G---- went to the police station
+armed with these passes, and requested to have their passports back.
+"The Demon" curtly refused. "But you _must_ give them to us," said
+Miss M----. "Don't say _müssen_ to me!" said "the Demon," "_bitten_
+is the word!" (Don't say _must_ to me, _beg_ is the word).
+
+_September 24th._--Joyfully packing! A last meeting was held at the
+"Prince of Wales' Hotel" where kind Mr. S---- presided, and we all
+received instructions for our journey, and our long detained
+passports!
+
+Fifty women and children go. We sleep in Frankfort, and cross from
+Flushing to Folkestone. Oh! that terrible mined sea, and the
+"untersuchung" of the Frontier. I tremble for this Diary, all letters
+I have destroyed.
+
+FRANKFORT, _September 25th._--We are still in the enemy's country of
+course, but have come out of our prison Altheim. All were early at the
+Bahn-Hof. There for the last time, please God! we found our old horror
+the Chief of Police. He had a long paper in his hand, and read out our
+names; "Hamilton?" "Here!" "Your passport?" (which he scrutinised as
+if he had never seen such a thing before), and so on. As we got our
+precious papers back we passed through the barrier, where our tickets
+were clipped, and on to the platform above. The train when it came in
+was crammed with soldiers, and we were advised to wait two hours for
+the next, but (to a woman) we all preferred travelling third, or even
+fourth class, rather than remain another hour where we had suffered so
+much. Miss G---- told me afterwards that she had travelled with two
+German men, who cursed England up and down, using the most horrible
+language about her.
+
+Presently a wounded soldier came into the carriage, and they asked him
+where he had been fighting. "On the Western Frontier," said he.
+
+"With the French?"
+
+"Yes."
+
+"Did you see the English?"
+
+"No."
+
+"Of course not! They had all run away. Cowards, cowards!"
+
+These are the things which make life so unendurable in an enemy's
+land. I was sent here to the "Hessicher-Hof," which, although it
+masquerades under another name, I had no difficulty in recognising as
+the former "Englischer-Hof." Miss H---- went to the "Hotel Bristol,"
+and when she got there found over the door the one word "Hotel." What
+we women should have done without the able committee who arranged all
+details for us with such kindness and thoroughness, I cannot imagine.
+
+_September 28th._--There were few tears shed when we steamed out of
+Frankfort two days ago on our way to home and freedom. It was
+wonderful to feel that we might talk above a whisper in the
+railway-carriage; amazing that we had not to scrutinize carefully
+every corner to be sure no spies lurked there, and most delightful of
+all to know that we had got beyond the reach of the Demon of the
+Burg-Strasse. Egotistically enough we went over in retrospect our
+anxieties, disappointments and miseries. Should we ever get rid of
+that evil shadow, we wondered, which had darkened so cruelly two weary
+months of our lives!
+
+Now and then we looked out of the windows with distaste--agreed that
+the outskirts of Frankfort were hideous with their obtrusive and
+insistent collection of factory chimneys; and shuddered at the distant
+and beautiful background of mountain and forest, to us so teeming
+with painful memories. We exclaimed at the unsightliness of the huge
+skeleton lettering proclaiming to all the world that a _maschinen-Fabrik_
+was below. Even when we entered a bucolic region of modest gardens and
+saw nothing more aggressive than cabbages and turnips, we turned away
+from the sight with aversion. Yet the villages are picturesque enough,
+and so are the towns. Timber-framed and gabled houses, steeply pitched
+red roofs and stunted grey and mossy church spires, certainly make no
+unpleasing picture. In happier days I have admired the grape-vines
+meandering over the whitewashed cottages, and marvelled at the
+monotony of taste which furnished every window-ledge with exactly four
+pots of scarlet geraniums. Now, nothing pleased us that was German;
+scenery, architecture or people! "This," we said to ourselves, is "the
+sunny Rhineland through which we are passing, and we see no obvious
+signs as we go by of the struggle which is devastating Belgium and
+menacing France." At the first station, however, we realised that
+Germany was indeed at war. Red Cross nurses seemed everywhere. Long
+tables were spread with snowy cloths and bore coffee urns, zwiebacks,
+hörnchen and huge bowls of steaming soup ready for the poor wounded as
+they pass through. Now and then pale bandaged faces looked out at us
+from passing trains, and men on crutches hobbled by, and the horrors
+of mutilating war came home to us all. At Goch we had to show our
+passports, and have our luggage examined, but the reality proved not
+nearly so bad as our imaginings, and on the whole the officials were
+kind and courteous compared to our Altheim demon. The sun was setting
+blood-red behind a distant line of black forest when we left Goch and
+our enemies and imprisonment behind us and entered the Land of Promise.
+
+We had all been saddened in the morning to learn that Mr. Ives'
+strenuous efforts to get permission for the men left behind to go
+soon, had met with a curt refusal from the Commandant at Frankfort.
+"When England returns our men, not before, and she had better be quick
+about it," said he. But how true is Rochefoucauld's cynical
+epigram--"Nous avons tous assez de force pour supporter les maux
+d'Autrui!" Even our sympathy with, and sorrow for, those left in
+Altheim could not damp the joy we felt to be free again; and when we
+quitted Goch, the German frontier station, I thought how blessed would
+be that day when "They shall beat their swords into ploughshares and
+their spears into pruning hooks; nation shall not lift up a sword
+against nation, neither shall they learn war any more. But they shall
+sit every man under his vine and under his fig-tree; and none shall
+make them afraid."
+
+
+
+
+                          GERMAN TRAVEL NOTES
+
+                            "TAKIN' NOTES"
+
+
+He who knows his Rhine and loves it must take of its charms in small
+doses, or satiety is the outcome. There are those, of course, who can
+travel from Dan to Beersheba and cry, "'Tis all barren"; but the
+ordinarily intelligent traveller may find much to delight and interest
+on the banks of the Rhine, always provided that he suits his mood to
+his environment, and takes but little of Rhine scenery at a time. For
+surely between Coblentz and Bingen there is an iteration as regards
+castles and ruins which is downright wearisome. Do we not between
+these points find Lahneck, Marksburg, Sterrenberg, Liebenstein, The
+Mouse, Rheinfels, The Cat, Schönburg, Gutenfels, The Pfalz, Stahleck,
+Furstenberg, Hohneck, Sooneck, Falkenburg, Rheinstein, and Ehrenfels?
+
+Moreover, there is an affinity of form and colour and, indeed, of
+situation between all these which produces the effect of perpetual
+repetition. And we owe Byron a grudge for having written such trite
+words as "the castled crag" in relation to the Rhine, since no
+commonplace mind of the present day acquainted with his works but has
+fallen back on "the castled crag" to describe Drachenfels or Marksburg
+or Rheinfels, because, forsooth, its own English is too limited to
+supply a better adjective. So it is that conventional and inadequate
+English is perpetuated and individual force and expression are lost
+because people accept the ideas of others and will not seek language
+to convey their own.
+
+All of which above prosing is the result of a day on the Rhine when
+the thermometer registered 74° to 84° in the shade, and a white vapour
+hid the banks of the river from Köln till close on Bonn. At Bonn a
+huge party of "personally-conducted" American tourists came on board.
+Their sharp, keen, eager, shrewd faces and shrill voices proclaimed
+their nationality at the outset. They were all obviously outside the
+pale of Society, and their thirst for information and keen interest in
+their surroundings were amazing. One learned before long that they had
+"done" the Paris Exhibition and meant to have a "look in" at most
+European countries before sailing from Naples. They took the whole
+ship into their confidence before a quarter of an hour had passed; and
+we shared alike in thrilling intelligences conveyed through the medium
+of Baedeker's pages. "The castled crag" resounded from one end of the
+boat to the other; and as for Roland and Hildegunde, the tragedy of
+their lives was discussed, and exclaimed over, and lamented, until,
+happily, a bend of the river hid Nonnenwerth from sight.
+
+In emphatic contrast to the nervous alertness of the Yankee was the
+spectacle of the middle-class German and his ways. He sat by his
+plain, stout, ill-dressed Frau, with his back to the scenery, and ate.
+Occasionally he spoke in monosyllables: more often he drank; but the
+end and object of his Rhine trip seemed to be that of consuming as
+much food as lay within the limits of possibility. What Nemesis has in
+store for him and those of his manner of life I can only imagine!
+
+At a table near us sat three women and two men. Directly we left Köln
+a waiter set forth trays in front of them laden with coffee,
+zwiebacks, hörnchens, and eggs. This meal over, they sat sleepily
+blinking their eyes, whisking away flies, and mopping the moisture
+from their faces until the sound of "Eis! meine Herrschaften!" "Bier!
+meine Herrschaften!" roused them from their lethargy. Ices and beer
+and cherries and peaches successively filled up the weary hours until
+"the tocsin of the soul, the dinner bell," carried joy to their
+hearts. I can never forget the rapturous look of anticipation and
+satisfaction which those stolid middle-class Teutonic countenances
+wore when "Mittagsessen" was announced. They shook off their normal
+and habitual torpidity, and cheerfully elbowed their neighbours,
+nearly tumbling down the companion-ladder in their eagerness to be
+first in the field. They lost no time over the unlovely detail of
+tucking a corner of their napkins down their necks, and smoothing its
+folds over their protuberant persons; and they studied the
+Speise-Karte with a conscientiousness that was worthy of a better
+cause.
+
+Dinner began with a tolerably good soup, followed by tough roast beef,
+cut in thick slices and garnished with carrots, peas and beans. Next
+came veal, equally uneatable, and then a surprise in the shape of
+Rhine salmon; after which followed chicken, salad, and _compôte_.
+Finally, a stodgy pudding, sufficiently satisfying, and dessert. Not
+one item of the menu was neglected by the five. They calmly and
+conscientiously and readily ate through the Speise-Karte from start to
+finish. Then they returned to deck, only to order coffee and ices, and
+called for a bottle of champagne, three of light Rhine wine, and a
+plateful of peaches; out of which they brewed a cup, ladling it from a
+Taunus ware bowl into their long Munich glasses, and sipping it lazily
+all the afternoon between such trifles as Kuchen and fresh relays of
+cherries. They ate and drank from Köln to Bingen with rare intervals
+of dozing, and I never once saw any of the party take the faintest
+interest in the Rhine, so far as its banks were concerned.
+
+It was a relief to turn from such grossness to its antithesis in the
+shape of two American ladies who sat near us. They were
+well-preserved, well-bred spinsters under forty. Everything about them
+was dainty and exquisitely neat. I likened them in my mind to bowls of
+dried rose-leaves--the freshness gone, the perfume left. Such was
+their intense and intelligent interest in travel that, rather than
+lose a timber-framed village or historic castle, a vineyard or
+watch-tower, they abstained from lunch and picnicked lightly on deck
+off tea and eggs and hörnchen. They knew the legends of the Rhine as
+you and I know (or ought to know) our Prayer-Books. They had studied
+the history of Germany, and mastered the intricacies alike of the
+Thirty Years' War and of the Hohenzollern pedigree; and they talked
+well, expressing their ideas in good Saxon words; at times, perhaps a
+trifle pedantic, but never offensively so.
+
+As the day wore on the temperature became almost overpowering. The
+water reflected a blinding glare, and a heat like that of a burning
+fiery furnace was radiated from the engines. I was wondering whether a
+hammock in a cool English garden would not have been more desirable,
+when I heard a plaintive, uneducated American voice behind me ask a
+question of its mate which exactly embodied my own unuttered
+sentiments:
+
+"What _I_ want to know, Jake, is: Is this pleasure, or ain't it? Did
+we come here to enjoy ourselves, or what?"
+
+JAKE: "Wall, I guess you ain't used to travelling around, my dear, and
+you don't understand it. Oh, yes" (with an obvious effort), "this is
+real fust-class pleasure, this is!"
+
+MRS. JAKE: "Wall, I'm darned! I'd as lief be in our store."
+
+JAKE: "Sakes alive! You _do_ surprise me! Think what Keren-Happuch
+Jones will say when you mention casual on your return something that
+happened when you was sailing up the Rhine. She'll die of envy, she
+will, and spite to think you've seen more'n her."
+
+MRS. JAKE (cheered somewhat): "Wall, I reckon, Jake, there's summat in
+that. Keren-Happuch don't like anyone to do what she don't do."
+
+JAKE: "And then, my dear, think of your noo bonnet from Paris! That'll
+be another pill for Keren-Happuch to swallow."
+
+MRS. JAKE: "My! Yes! I don't think much of Europe, anyway, but I could
+never have bought that bonnet in Baltimore. But, Jake, do look on the
+map and tell me when we get to Heidelberg."
+
+JAKE: "It ain't any good my lookin', my dear, for I wasn't raised to
+these sort of things, and I'm darned if I know where to find it."
+
+A groan from Mrs. Jake, followed by: "Wall, I reckon when I find
+myself again in No. 9, Mount Mascal Street, I won't want to go
+travelling around even to cut out Keren-Happuch Jones."
+
+I came to the rescue at this point, and showed the good lady where
+Heidelberg lay. She was a hard-featured, plain woman of some
+thirty-eight summers, her hair was dragged back uncompromisingly from
+her forehead, and there were no "adulteries of art" about either
+coiffure or costume.
+
+"You see," she said apologetically, "Jake here and me are travelling
+around, and the only way we can get on is to ask for a ticket to a
+place, and never stop travelling till we get there. We speak German
+all right because my parents were Germans, and Jake was born in
+Germany; but he don't know much about it because he was only two years
+old when he left it eight-and-thirty years ago. We thought we'd like
+to see the Paris Exposition, but my! it ain't to be compared to the
+Chicago Exhibition, and as for Paris, it can't come up to Noo York,
+and these river steamers ain't a patch on the Hudson River boats, and
+I don't think much of Europe anyway."
+
+Jake, a good-looking, gentle-mannered man, tried to soften the
+asperity of his wife's strictures without success. He evidently adored
+her.
+
+"The way we travel," resumed Mrs. Jake, "is to think of a place we've
+heard of, and to ask for a ticket to it. Now, we'd heard of Paris and
+Cologne, and Heidelberg, and Baden, and Dresden, and Berlin, and
+Hamburg, but we don't know now how they come--see? So we hev' to go
+cavortin' around to find out which to take next. A gentleman way back
+at Cologne"--she pronounced it "Klon"--"told me Heidelberg came next.
+I quite thought Baden was near Hamburg, and that we should take it
+last; but they tell me it ain't, and that, you see, has upset all our
+calculations. Guess you're a Londoner, anyway; thought so by your
+accent!"
+
+When we left the steamer at Bingen, the last I heard of Mrs. Jake was
+a plaintive moan:
+
+"Guess I don't think much of Europe, anyway, and I wouldn't come
+again, not even to cut out Keren-Happuch!"
+
+
+
+
+         OF SOME FELLOW TRAVELLERS AND THE CATHEDRAL OF MAINZ.
+
+
+"Ja Wohl! Frau Rittergutsbesitzer. I have lived in the Herr
+Professor's house for five-and-thirty years. I have pickled his
+cabbage and preserved his fruit. I have minced with my own hand the
+pork for his sausages before they had mincing-machines in
+Schleswig-Holstein. I have seen personally to the smoking of his hams
+and fish. I make his Apfelkuchen and Nusskuchen myself, and do not buy
+them in the shop, like that lazy Hausfrau opposite us at No 2, who
+comes from that God-forgotten country England, where all the women are
+so badly brought up. I grant you that what I do is no more than the
+duty of every God-fearing German _Haushälterin_; none the less, I do
+not mean all my work to go for nothing, and I will not be ousted by a
+hussy! In the time of the _vielbedauerten_ mother (Frau Regierungsrat
+Lenbach) I had no worries about his matrimonial affairs; she looked
+after those. But _sieh mal_, Frau Riedel, now the care of him is on my
+shoulders. He has no more idea of taking care of himself than a baby!
+He is exactly like that learned man--I think it was our great
+Neander--who was running out of his college one day and ran into a
+cow; so he pulled off his hat and said, '_Gnädige Frau, ich bitte um
+Verzeihung_' ('Gracious lady, I beg your pardon'), and went on; and
+the week after he came tearing round the same corner, thinking, I
+suppose, of those heathen gods and goddesses whose pictures shame a
+modest woman to look at, and he ran up against a lady, so he cried
+out: '_Oh! du dumme Kuh! warum kommst du mir immer in den Weg?_' ('Oh,
+you stupid cow, why will you always get in my way?') Yes, my Herr
+Professor is just like that--quite as stupid, though they call him so
+wise and clever; and what chance has a born innocent like he is
+against a designing spinster of forty-five who makes him presents of
+_Weihnachtstollen_ at Christmas, _Oster-Eier_ at Easter, and
+_Geburtstagstorte_ on his birthday? I ask you what chance of escape a
+poor _Junggeselle_ has?
+
+"Told him she wanted to marry him! Not I. Why, _liebe Frau_, I have
+not lived sixty-five and a half years in this world for nothing! If I
+let him suppose she was in love with him, that would be the very way
+to make him like her. So as I laid the cloth for the Herr Professor's
+_Abendtisch_, I remarked casually that Fräulein Bettine Meyer was not
+at all a bad sort of woman really, and that she had some excellent
+qualities, if only she did not make herself so ridiculous. 'How
+ridiculous?' says he, sitting up. 'What does she do ridiculous, I
+should like to know?' 'Why, wears a false front and curls bought at
+Frau Kölsch's shop,' says I. 'Poor thing, she can't make herself look
+young and beautiful, whatever she does, and Frau Rittmeister Bernstorf
+was laughing at her the other day, and at the high heels and at the
+stuffing the _Schneiderin_ round the corner puts into her gowns to
+cover the angular bones! She would look much more respectable,' said
+I, 'if she would brush her scanty grey locks back, and smooth them
+with pomatum as I do, and wear a black lace _Mütze_ over them, instead
+of making herself the laughing-stock of Schleswig.' And away I walked.
+And the Professor ate no supper that night, and next day he left for
+his _Ferienausflug_, and never called to say good-bye to Fräulein
+Meyer; and so I put the extinguisher on that little candle just as its
+flame was beginning to burn up, and--why! here we are at Mainz."
+
+And this is what I heard, and how I was entertained, in the
+"elektrische Bahn" on my little expedition from Wiesbaden to Mainz. I
+reflected, as I saw the Haushälterin get down heavily with all the
+deliberation of her sixty-five and a half years, that feline amenities
+are much the same in Germany as in England; and I felt sorry for poor
+Fräulein Meyer, who might have given up her small vanities and made
+pancakes and _Apfelkuchen_ for the Professor quite as well in the end
+as the Haushälterin.
+
+The cathedral of Mainz was, of course, the object of our expedition.
+It dominates the city from afar, with its wonderful towers and
+pinnacles, making of Mainz (a commonplace city enough) a thing of
+beauty. From the shores of the Rhine we crossed a wide street planted
+with trees and lined on each hand with modern German houses of pinkish
+stone (covered with heavy sculpture and breaking out into countless
+balconies and bay windows), and soon found ourselves in the
+market-place. And here, indeed, one felt oneself in the Germany of
+bygone days. Instead of pseudo-classic buildings, heavy with
+meaningless ornamentation, we found beautiful old timber-framed
+houses, with deep eaves and wood carvings. On one of these I read:
+
+                          Zum Kurfürstlichen
+                                Wappen.
+                           Erneuert in Jahr
+                               des Heils
+                                 1899.
+
+It was evidently a Gasthaus of considerable antiquity, and had been
+carefully restored. Close by a Brobdingnagian finger lured the unwary
+to where it pointed--a low doorway above which was inscribed the
+legend: "_Hier essen Sie gut_." The market-place had been dismantled
+of its stalls and umbrellas all but one, which was being furled as we
+arrived on the scene. A couple of men in blue smocks were sweeping up
+the cabbage leaves, straw and refuse, market carts were driving off,
+and smart-looking officers in beautiful uniforms strolled across what
+we English miscall "a square" for want of a better word.
+
+But to get a good view of the exterior of the cathedral was what we
+wanted, and to this end we dived down strange, evil-smelling alleys,
+and went round and round a labyrinth of streets, always expecting to
+see, and never arriving at, the cathedral's façade. At last we
+realised that the quest was hopeless, since the building is so
+surrounded and deformed by commonplace, ugly houses that nothing of it
+but roof and towers can be seen from outside. We entered it at last by
+a narrow lane between poor, ugly houses, an unfit approach indeed to
+this beautiful Romanesque cathedral--one of the four famous Romanesque
+Gothic cathedrals of Germany. The general effect of the interior is
+that of strength, solidity, and simplicity. The grand structural lines
+are noble and pure. There is an entire absence of the florid in
+architecture, and no attempt at all at decoration as one understands
+it in Spanish cathedrals. The tone of the walls and floor is a pinkish
+brown, and the whole church has a warm glowing effect from its
+richly-coloured stone. I could have spared most, if not all, of the
+overladen rococo monuments to the Electors of Mainz, with their
+monstrous records of impossible perfections; but my companion (a
+German lady) thought them beautiful. The whole church struck one as
+rather ill-kept; perhaps the red stone floor had something to do with
+it. Dust and mud do not adhere somehow to an opus Alexandrinum
+pavement. A guide appeared to offer his services, almost obsequiously
+polite in his attentions to the English lady. Whatever their opinions
+may be as to our failings and vices, our shortcomings and our
+iniquities, most Germans are civil to us nowadays.[3] They hate us
+cordially, envy us sincerely, attack us in the press and out of it,
+and are insanely jealous of the people they affect to despise. But
+while the superficial _entente_ lasts, they smile and bow and are
+outwardly polite. I asked an English lady, the widow of a German
+official, if her husband, having married an English wife, did not
+cherish kindlier sentiments towards us than the majority of his
+countrymen. "He died during the Boer war," she said, "and he died in
+the sure and certain hope that England was done for."
+
+    [Footnote 3: This was written before the war.]
+
+Apart from the Domkirche, there is little to see in Mainz, although
+the city is of great antiquity, having been founded by Drusus. It is a
+strongly fortified place, and stood once upon a time a memorable
+siege. There are pleasant walks by the Rhine, beautiful Anlagen, a
+picturesque old tower, and the site of Gutenberg's house to see. The
+Grand Ducal Palace once sheltered Napoleon the First, as did many
+another palace in Germany. The present Grand Duke prefers his palace
+in Darmstadt, the Neue Palais (built by Queen Victoria for Princess
+Alice), and comes little to the ancient city of bygone Electors.
+
+We have fallen into German ways--alarming thought!--and become
+unquestionably alive to the virtues of cafés and Restaurations as a
+wind-up to a day's expedition. At Mainz we discovered a café close to
+the theatre, and sipped coffee and ate _Streuselkuchen_ out of doors
+in the shadow of the cathedral and Gutenberg's statue. A
+pleasant-faced Gretchen brought us miniature Mont Blancs of whipped
+cream on small glass plates, and loitered near us ostensibly
+rearranging a table, but in reality studying our gowns and hats.
+Before we paid our Rechnung, the Haushälterin and Frau Rittergutsbesitzer
+turned up hot and rather cross, having spent their time since we
+parted in futile attempts to match Schleswig-Holstein ribbons with
+those of the sunny Rhineland.
+
+
+
+
+                             SCHLANGENBAD.
+
+                     GREEN HILLS AND BLUE WATERS.
+
+
+Schlangenbad, although a charmingly pretty spot, is not one to
+fascinate a painter. The landscape is unvaryingly green, and that
+green is too monotonous in tone for effect in a picture. Moreover, it
+lies shut in by hills, and there is no distant horizon to give the
+value of foreground and middle distance. But less critical eyes find
+much to admire in Schlangenbad. The great wide road leading to it from
+Eltville testifies to its former popularity in the days of family
+coaches and postilions. Nowadays an ugly steam tram transports the
+traveller from the Rhine to the "Serpent's Bath," and nearly poisons
+and chokes him _en route_ with the horrible smoke it emits. Half of
+the tram is open to the air at the sides, like a char-a-banc; and when
+we travelled by it a little party of Germans were enjoying an
+_Ausflug_, each man with one eye cocked on the scenery and the other
+on the look-out for a _Bier-garten_.
+
+Next to me sat a student, whose face was so slashed and gashed that it
+reminded one of "Amtshauptmann Weber" (in Reuter's delightful book),
+whose "face looked as if he had sat down upon it on a cane-bottomed
+chair." Opposite the student was a middle-aged fat "Assessor," with a
+small girl in long frilled drawers and short petticoats; and on the
+other side of the gangway were two homely-looking women in
+lead-coloured garments. As we passed through Altdorf the child drew
+her father's attention to a fat goose which waddled away as the tram
+approached. "_Sieh mal, Vater_," said she, "_die schöne Gans_."
+("Look, father, at the beautiful goose.") "O! _die Gans_," said her
+practical and prosaic parent, "_wird viel schöner sein, mein Kind,
+wenn sie gebraten ist_." ("The goose will be much more beautiful, my
+child, when it is roast.") "And has an accompaniment of sage-stuffing
+and apple-sauce," I added, to which he in all serious conviction bowed
+an assent.
+
+The valley up which we journeyed was green and pleasant. There were no
+walls or fences on either side of the road, but trees shaded the
+wayfarer, and his outlook on gardens, bean-poles, orchards, and vines
+was agreeable enough. If he chose to look further afield a silvery
+streak called the Rhine was visible, and beyond that again low blue
+hills stretched away until their cobalt and that of the sky got mixed
+on the palette of Nature. From this valley comes the famous
+Rauen-thaler wine. Most of the hills, indeed, are covered with vines,
+and the village houses showed grapes hanging from their eaves and
+peeping in at their windows.
+
+At Neudorf we paused to pick up a _Barmherzige Schwester_; and as our
+halt was exactly in front of the village shop I amused myself by
+making a mental inventory of its contents. The window--an ordinary
+one--had wooden shelves nailed across it; and on these were displayed
+soap, slates and slate-pencils, bottles of peppermint lozenges,
+hearthstone, flannel, lemon-drops, gingham, sausages, and gingerbread.
+
+The houses of the village were covered with rough stucco, and white or
+yellow-wash was swished liberally over them. Under their deep eaves an
+occasional small image of _Die Mutter Gottes_ was to be seen. Many
+were covered with grape-vines, and all had clean muslin blinds at
+their windows, and often pots of geraniums and fuchsias outside.
+Sunflowers, dahlias, and roses grew in the little patches of garden by
+the road; and all was charming and primitive, save for the discordant
+electric fittings which hung midway on the telegraph-posts, and the
+anomaly of a brand new brick _Brod-fabrik_ just outside the village.
+
+All the way up the "cane-bottomed chair" and the "Assessor" smoked
+stolidly, while their women-folk cackled like human geese. "_Wie
+schön!_" "_Colossal!_" "_Entzückend!_" "_Reizend!_" Nothing but
+incessant and weary adjectives! I turned with relief to the
+"Barmherzige Schwester," a prim and silent little figure in neat blue
+cotton gown, black apron, and white kerchief pinned over her shining
+hair.
+
+The tram stopped at last before the village church, and we all got
+out. To our left, as we faced the Kurhaus, straggled a long line of
+houses with deep verandahs and balconies, to our right shady walks and
+bath-houses and beautiful woods. Here and there amid the hotels and
+villas was a shop, and we knew that Schlangenbad marched with the
+times when we saw the word "_Schamponieren_" and a bunch of Empire
+curls exhibited as a modern trophy. We stopped at a shop and examined
+its wares, which, indeed, hung chiefly on the shutters. There were
+Swiss embroidered gowns and blouses to be bought, edelweiss penwipers,
+wooden paper-cutters, and clocks with chamois climbing wooden rocks.
+Nothing apparently in that shop had been "made in Germany." When we
+reached the verandah of the "Nassauer Hof" we were gladdened by bows
+from the "Assessor" and the student, who with the "cackling geese"
+were seated at a long table consuming piles of Apfelkuchen,
+Streuselkuchen, and Napfkuchen to an accompaniment of steaming coffee.
+
+As for dull, useful information Schlangenbad, of course, was known to
+the Romans, and they bathed in its waters. The Middle Ages seem to
+have neglected Spas generally, and to have been dead to the joys of a
+bath. At all events, nothing more was heard about Schlangenbad or its
+springs until in 1687 a wooden hut was put over what was known as the
+"Römer Bad." Next the Landgraf of Hesse awoke to the virtues of its
+waters, and caused the "Oberes Kurhaus" to be built. Five years
+later, the "Nassauer Hof" was erected, and a time of prosperity and
+fashion set in for Schlangenbad. The waters have always had a great
+reputation for beautifying the skin and healing wounds and sores. It
+is on record that Frederick the First of Sweden ordered four thousand
+bottles of Schlangenbad water a year as _eau de toilette_, and another
+and still vainer sovereign three hundred a week. After this who shall
+dare say that women have the monopoly of vanity?
+
+Besides embellishing, the Schlangenbad waters are good in nervous
+disorders, rheumatism, and asthma. They are of an exquisite light-blue
+colour, and when bathing in them one's limbs have the appearance of
+marble. That the Schlangenbad people think highly of their "cure" is
+obvious. I bought a map of the district (manufactured in the place)
+and found the word Schlangenbad printed in huge letters, while the
+neighbouring town of Wiesbaden was in such small ones that it looked
+as if scarcely worth mentioning at all.
+
+
+
+
+                             LIEBENSTEIN.
+
+
+Here in the Thuringian Forest, aloof from the stir and roar of life,
+lies a Kur-Ort little known to the English world. Its waters are
+analogous to those of Schwalbach, its air is as pure, its scenery more
+beautiful, and its prices half those of the Taunus Wald. Its people
+still retain their primitive charm, unspoilt as yet by the
+potentialities of South African or American money-bags. Within easy
+reach of such interesting towns as Eisenach, Weimar, Erfurt, Gotha,
+and Coburg, it offers many alluring baits to the sightseer; yet to the
+coming and going of tourists is it altogether unaccustomed.
+Liebenstein lies in a green and beautiful valley, and the hills which
+surround it are covered for the most part with great black forests.
+Patches of wheat and rye vibrate in the winds which sweep up the
+valleys, and the fields of potatoes alternate on the low grounds with
+pasturage and orchards. Under the great limestone rocks, which near
+Liebenstein rise sheer out of the plain, nestle charming villages, and
+long avenues of poplars conduct you where you would go along the high
+roads. By the roadside a wealth of flowers is yours for the
+picking--wild thyme and asparagus and mallow, periwinkles, and the
+picturesque dock and crowfoot. The woods are starred with flowers, and
+the perfume of the pines is a revelation.
+
+The humbler houses of Liebenstein (for the greater part timber-framed
+and red-tiled) straggle up the immediate hills which surround it.
+Those of more pretention and inevitable ugliness range themselves
+decently and in order along two parallel roads. Aloof as this village
+is from "the madding crowd's ignoble strife," it has yet been touched
+to its undoing by the ruthless finger of conventionality. The
+inevitable Kur-Haus and bandstand and Anlagen are here; worst of all,
+a Trink-Halle! The Trink-Halle stands a mute and awful warning to the
+vaulting ambition which overleaps itself, since a classic temple in
+the heart of Liebenstein is surely as much out of place as a tiara
+would be on the head of the peasant woman who hands you your daily
+portion of Stahlwasser. Even the spring it originally sheltered has
+revolted against its sham marble pillars and grotesque entablature,
+and betaken itself elsewhere! Nowadays the paint and plaster are
+peeling off the columns, and its door is padlocked. Happily--although
+a melancholy warning to the educated--it remains a source of pride to
+the peasant, who loves his shabby temple as the Romans do the marble
+glories of their Vesta.
+
+Immediately behind the temple are the springs of Georg and Kasimir, at
+which stand two charming maidens ready to fill your glasses. No
+conventional and hideous hat or bonnet disfigures the neat outline of
+their heads. No travesty of Berlin or Paris fashion burlesques their
+sturdy figures. Theirs the traditional costume of the Thuringian
+female peasant--a dark skirt, and white, short-sleeved chemisette, a
+blue apron and the daintiest of white silk kerchiefs, fringed sparsely
+and brocaded abundantly with red roses. Albeit their arms are red and
+coarse with the combined effect of iron-water, hot sun, and exposure
+to the air, their faces make ample amends in their innocent,
+good-tempered comeliness. They greet you with a kindly "Guten Tag" or
+"Guten Abend," and, in the case of a lady, seldom omit the pretty
+"Gnädige Frau," for which our "Ma'am" is but a poor correlative.
+
+Wandering through the streets of Liebenstein, one is struck by the
+intensely picturesque sights of its older and original part. The
+little houses are timber-framed and whitewashed, with deep projecting
+eaves and often many gables. Their windows are made gay outside by
+boxes filled with geraniums, nasturtiums, and fuchsias. Beneath the
+windows lie small gardens, in which bloom roses and single dahlias,
+while scarlet runners send their tendrils climbing over the palings
+which separate road and garden. Many of the little houses have
+projecting signs, on which one reads such legends as "_Tabak,
+Cigarren, Cigaretten_;" "Adolf Schmidt, _Herren kleidermacher_;"
+"_Weinhandlung Naturreinheit garantirt_;" or the very indispensable
+"_Bäckerei_." One house bears a tablet announcing to an admiring world
+that "_Herzoglich. Sachsen-Meiningen Stadtesbeamter_" lives within.
+Cocks and hens, dogs and children, make common playground of these
+narrow streets, and one sees in them pretty well every form of animal
+life represented, except horses. Now a long cart, drawn by oxen and
+well filled, toils up the hill, and not long after follows one drawn
+by a big dog. At a pump two tiny girls are busily employed filling
+stone jars, which by the beauty and purity of their outlines might
+have been Etruscan. Mothers beat mats at their cottage doors, and
+shrilly scream at their children to get out of the way of the passing
+carts; and the world in this remote village goes on pretty much as it
+does elsewhere.
+
+But the fashionable life of Liebenstein does not concern itself with
+such mean sights and bucolic sounds as oxen-carts and crowing of
+cocks. It takes its pleasure up and down the long avenues of beech
+trees which lie between the Kur-Haus and the Hôtel Bellevue. It
+rallies round the bandstand, and makes great show of studying the
+programmes of the daily concert. It chatters glibly over the previous
+evening's illuminations, and describes them as "_colossal!_" and
+"_wunderschön_." Beauty is not in vogue at Liebenstein, judging by the
+middle-class Kur guests who haunt the shade of the beech trees.
+Indeed, if anywhere in the world an Englishman might be forgiven for
+thanking God that he is not as other men are, it would be here among
+the "_Ober-Lieutenants_" and "Herr Professors" and their mates.
+Figures, both male and female, seem to be of the switchback
+order--faces rudimentary in their modelling, and uncompromising in
+their plainness, dressing of the ugliest. Yet, _Gott sei Dank!_ Hans
+thinks his Gretchen perfection, and it would never enter into innocent
+Gretchen's head, as it does mine, to bestow upon Hans the carping
+criticism of Portia upon Monsieur Le Bon: "God made him, and therefore
+let him pass for a man."
+
+
+
+
+                                TRÈVES
+
+
+The dominant glory of the Moselle region is Trèves. No town or city
+near has the smallest affinity with its peculiar character, and all
+seem modern and prosaic compared with its well-preserved tale of
+antiquity. "Nowhere north of the Alps," we are told in weary
+iteration, "exist such magnificent Roman remains." It is generally on
+the obvious that the unimaginative English parson takes upon himself
+to comment. We listen submissively to much school-book lore as to
+"Claudius" and the "fourth century" and the "residence of Roman
+Emperors," but when it rains Bishops and Archbishops and Electors we
+fly before them. For, after all, what signifies the paltry learning of
+a dry-as-dust dominie compared with the vivid tales these grand old
+ruins tell if suffered to speak for themselves? In Trèves people need
+to absorb silently, and then assimilate undisturbed by weary chatter.
+One looks at the tender turquoise sky, flecked with luminous clouds;
+at the fine horizontal distance, with its sense of breadth and
+breathing-space; at the low hills covered with vines; at the
+cornfields, and orchards, and river--and we wonder what the old Romans
+thought of it all, and reflect on the strangeness of life that a
+people so remote from our times should have lived and loved and died,
+as we live and love and die to-day. Whether Trèves lie on the right or
+left bank of the Moselle is immaterial except to the tiresomely
+precise or to those who pin their faith to guide-books and such
+shallow teachers. There is a more valuable lesson to be learnt of the
+place than that of its exact situation; and no Baedeker or Murray can
+help you to appreciate Trèves as quiet communings with your own
+intelligence will. If it so happens that you have none to commune
+with, then God help you--and yours!
+
+In Trèves you have not far to go in search of the Romans. Their
+_magnum opus_ confronts you boldly at the very threshold of the town.
+Solid and massive and symmetrical, it stands a pregnant lesson to the
+jerry-builders of to-day. There is little affinity indeed between the
+building methods of the ancient Romans and those of their trade whose
+sorry, pitiable record exists in the Quartiere Nuovo of Rome. About
+the Porta Nigra is no trace of stucco or rubble. The huge blocks of
+which it is built stand one upon the other clean-hewn and square. No
+signs of mortar are left, but we see marks of iron or brass clamps.
+Its colour is a warm, deep red, softened here and there by streaks of
+green.
+
+The Porta Nigra has passed through strange phases since first it
+started in life as a city gate. Obviously built for purposes of
+fortification, and equipped with towers of defence, its second phase
+was an ecclesiastical one, and the "spears" were indeed turned into
+"pruning-hooks" when the bellicose propugnaculum found itself
+transformed into a church.
+
+                          "Last scene of all,
+    That ends this strange, eventful history."
+
+The gate was in 1876 finally cleared of priests and altars, and
+allowed to revert to its original form.
+
+Not far from the Porta Nigra stands the Cathedral, one of the oldest
+in Germany, archæologically interesting, inasmuch as it owes its
+inception to the Romans. The Basilica, built by Valentinian as a court
+of law, is clearly traceable in the present cathedral, and one reads a
+strange tale of Romans and Franks in the sandstone and limestone and
+brick of its walls. Here is treasured the famous Heilige Rock, or holy
+coat worn by our Saviour when a boy. At rare intervals this garment is
+exhibited to the faithful, who come from all countries to gaze
+reverently upon it. Who that has seen can forget the last exposition
+in 1891? Never before or since has there been anything more pathetic
+than the sight of the long rows of tired, haggard, perspiring, praying
+pilgrims, who stood patiently for hours in the broiling August sun,
+moving only when permitted, and then at a snail's pace, towards their
+Mecca. Plebeian though the majority of faces were, their devotional,
+solemn, rapt expressions for the time being ennobled and beautified
+them.
+
+Trèves during that time, however, was by no means the reposeful,
+dignified city it is to-day. Its buildings were defaced with flags and
+banners, its streets blocked with pilgrims, and the road leading from
+the station to the town was lined with booths, whose owners disposed
+quickly of such delicacies as Napfkuchen, Streusel-Kuchen, and
+Apfelwein. Piety and profit went everywhere hand-in-hand, and a
+roaring trade was done in rosaries and bénitiers, the last made of the
+blue pottery of the country, and stamped with a representation of Leo
+XIII. against a background of Domkirche.
+
+But to be thoroughly in harmony with Trèves one must be Pagan and
+Roman rather than Christian and German. Indeed, one feels in sympathy
+with the Isle of Wight farmer who after he had found a Roman villa on
+his farm gave up the bucolic and inglorious occupation of growing
+turnips and potatoes, and could talk of nothing meaner than hypocausts
+and thermae. So we, like the farmer, slight the really beautiful Early
+Gothic "Liebfrauenkirche" and roam and muse for hours about the ruins
+of the Amphitheatre, the Roman Baths, the Roman Palace and the
+Basilica.
+
+   LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, DUKE STREET,
+         STAMFORD STREET, S.E., AND GREAT WINDMILL STREET, W.
+
+
+
+
+                          TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES
+
+
+page 23--inserted a missing closing quote after 'Dank!'
+page 36--inserted a missing period after 'Burns'
+page 61--inserted a missing closing quote after 'France'
+page 82--typo fixed: changed a comma into a period after 'pavement'
+page 83--typo fixed: changed a comma into a period after 'Electors'
+page 93--spelling normalized: changed the position of semi-colon and
+         a quote after 'Cigaretten'
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A War-time Journal, Germany 1914 and
+German Travel Notes, by Harriet Julia Jephson
+
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+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A War-time Journal, Germany 1914 and German
+Travel Notes, by Harriet Julia Jephson
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A War-time Journal, Germany 1914 and German Travel Notes
+
+Author: Harriet Julia Jephson
+
+Release Date: November 18, 2007 [EBook #23533]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A WAR-TIME JOURNAL, GERMANY ***
+
+
+
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+</pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+<h1><span style="font-size: 70%">A</span><br />
+
+WAR-TIME JOURNAL<br />
+
+<span style="font-size: 70%">GERMANY 1914</span><br />
+
+<span style="font-size: 50%">AND</span><br />
+
+<span style="font-size: 70%">GERMAN TRAVEL NOTES</span></h1>
+
+<p class="center" style="text-indent: 0em; padding-top: 4em; font-weight: bold"><small>BY</small><br />
+
+<span style="font-size: 120%">LADY JEPHSON</span></p>
+
+<p class="center" style="font-size: 80%; text-indent: 0em"><span class="smcap">Author of 'A Canadian Scrap-Book' and<br />
+'Letters to a D&eacute;butante'</span></p>
+
+<p class="publisher">LONDON<br />
+<big>ELKIN MATHEWS, CORK STREET</big><br />
+M&nbsp;CM&nbsp;XV</p>
+
+
+<p class="figcenter"><a name="frontispiece" id="frontispiece"></a><a href="images/i004.jpg"><img src="images/i004_th.jpg"
+alt="" title="" /></a></p>
+
+<p class="caption">ENGLISCHE KRIEGSF&Uuml;HRUNG<br />
+
+(<i>How the Englishman makes war.</i>)</p>
+
+<!--[Blank Page]-->
+
+
+<hr />
+<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE</h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Prefaces</span> are rarely read, yet I have the hardihood
+to venture on this one because there are certain
+things in connection with my journal which it is
+necessary to explain. On returning from Germany,
+although urged by my friends to publish the story
+of my experiences, I refused, fearing to do anything
+which in the smallest degree might prejudice the
+case of those still in captivity. There came a
+day, nevertheless, when I read that all English
+people had left "Altheim." The papers announced
+that men under forty-five had been interned at
+Ruhleben, and those over that age had been sent
+to Giessen. There seemed, therefore, no possible
+object in further withholding the journal, since, after
+all, there was nothing in it which could by any
+possibility affect the fate of others less fortunate
+than I. Accordingly I sent my manuscript to the
+<i>Evening Standard</i>, which accepted it, and published
+the first couple of pages. Then, in deference to
+the wishes of people whose relations were still at
+"Altheim" (having been sent back from Giessen),
+I stopped my diary. However, in view of the
+daily revelations in the Press as regards prisoners
+in Germany, I have come, after seven months, to
+the conclusion that nothing I can say will in any
+degree make the condition of prisoners there worse.
+Meanwhile it is of supreme interest to compare the
+opinions and conduct of Germans at the beginning
+of the war with what they express and observe now.
+My journal is simply a record made each day of my
+detention, and although it has no pretension to
+being literature, it is at least a truthful picture of
+the state of things as we in Altheim saw them
+at the beginning of the war. For obvious reasons
+the place of detention has been given a fictitious
+name.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="float: right; padding-right: 1.5em;" class="smcap">Harriet J. Jephson.</span><br style="clear: both" />
+</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2>
+
+<table>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td class="pageno"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">A War-Time Journal</span></td><td class="pageno"><a href="#Page_11">11</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">German Travel Notes:</span></td><td class="pageno">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="indent"><span class="smcap">"Takin' Notes"</span></td><td class="pageno"><a href="#Page_67">67</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="indent"><span class="smcap">Of some Fellow Travellers and the Cathedral of Mainz</span></td><td class="pageno"><a href="#Page_76">76</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="indent"><span class="smcap">Schlangenbad</span></td><td class="pageno"><a href="#Page_84">84</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="indent"><span class="smcap">Liebenstein</span></td><td class="pageno"><a href="#Page_90">90</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="indent"><span class="smcap">Tr&egrave;ves</span></td><td class="pageno"><a href="#Page_96">96</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+
+
+<table>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td class="pageno"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Englische Kriegsf&uuml;hrung</span><br /><span style="padding-left: 2em">(<i>How the Englishman makes war.</i>)</span></td><td class="pageno"><i><a href="#frontispiece">Frontispiece</a></i></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">England findet Hilfstruppen</span><br /><span style="padding-left: 2em">(<i>England finds troops to help her.</i>)</span></td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="indent">I. <span class="smcap">In Kanada</span><br /><span style="padding-left: 4em">(<i>Behold the German idea of a Canadian.</i>)</span></td><td class="pageno"><a href="#Page_17">17</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="indent">II. <span class="smcap">In Polynesien</span><br /><span style="padding-left: 4em">(<i>The German idea of an Australian.</i>)</span></td><td class="pageno"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="indent">III. <span class="smcap">Nur in London Nicht</span><br /><span style="padding-left: 4em"><i>But not in London!</i></span></td><td class="pageno"><a href="#Page_49">49</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center"><i>These illustrations are reproduced from German newspapers.</i></p>
+
+<!--[Blank Page]-->
+
+
+<hr /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="A_WAR-TIME_JOURNAL" id="A_WAR-TIME_JOURNAL"></a>A WAR-TIME JOURNAL:<br />
+
+GERMANY, 1914</h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Villa Buchholz, Altheim</span>, <i>August 1st.</i>&mdash;Last night
+a herald went round the town and roused everyone,
+blowing his trumpet and crying, "Kommen Sie
+heraus! Kommen Sie alle fort!" This was a call
+to the reservists, all of whom are leaving Altheim.
+To-day the crowd cheered madly, sang "Heil Dir
+im Sieger Kranz," and "Deutschland &uuml;ber alles,"
+showing the utmost enthusiasm. To my horror, I
+find that the banks here refuse foreign cheques, and
+will have nothing to do with letters of credit. I
+have very little ready money with me, and the
+situation is not a pleasant one!</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 2nd.</i>&mdash;Germany has declared war
+against Russia! All men old enough to serve are
+leaving to join the army. Proclamations are posted<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span>
+up in the Park Strasse, and crowds are standing in
+tense anxiety in groups, discussing matters with
+grave faces. We don't know how to get away,
+since all trains are to be used only for the troops
+while "mobilmachung" is going on. People have
+got as far as the frontier and been turned back
+there, and some who left Altheim yesterday are
+still at Frankfort. I tried to buy an English paper
+in the town, and was told that none were to be had
+until England had made up her mind what she was
+going to do! We think of motor-cars to the
+frontier, or the Rhine boat.</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 3rd.</i>&mdash;Alas! all steamers on the Rhine
+are stopped and motor-cars are impossible, because
+an order has come out that petroleum is to be
+reserved for the Government. I made another
+attempt to cash a cheque to-day, and again the
+bank refused. A Russian who stood beside me
+was desperate. He spoke execrable French, and
+cried excitedly: "Comment donc! je ne puis pas
+quitter le pays et j'ai une famille et trois femmes!"
+Poor Bluebeard! his "trois femmes" (wife and
+daughters) looked terrified and miserable. Our
+position is incredible and most serious. Still, one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span>
+cannot but admire the glorious spirit of sacrifice and
+patriotism which animates all classes of the German
+people. Just what it was in the war of 1813, when
+women even cut off their hair and sold it to help
+their country.</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 4th.</i>&mdash;Troops are marching through the
+streets and leaving for the Front all day long.
+The ladies of Altheim go to the station as the
+trains pass through, and give the soldiers coffee,
+chocolate, cigars, and zwiebacks. They get much
+gratitude, and the men say (poor deluded mortals):
+"Wir kriegen f&uuml;r Sie" (We fight for you). I saw
+poor Frau G&mdash;&mdash; (my doctor's wife) to-day. She
+was quite calm, but looked miserable. Her eldest
+son, Dr. T&mdash;&mdash;, left for the front this morning. I
+sympathised, and she said, choking back a sob:
+"Man gibt das beste f&uuml;r das Vaterland" (one gives
+one's best for the Fatherland). No letters come,
+nor papers; and we are only allowed to send postcards
+written in German.</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 5th.</i>&mdash;Our baker has gone to the war,
+and Dr. G&mdash;&mdash; 's butler; the schools have shut up,
+so many masters having been called upon to fight.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span>
+Even learned professors turn soldiers in this
+country, and most of the weedy cabhorses here
+have left Altheim to serve their "Fatherland."
+My Bade-Frau's husband has gone to the front,
+and so has our Apotheke; there are no porters left
+at the station, and a jeweller is doing duty as
+station-master! The Red Cross Society meet
+daily, and make preparations for the care of
+wounded men. Hospitals, private houses, and
+doctors' houses are getting ready, and all motors
+have been put at the State's disposal. Insane
+hatred against Russia exists, and the Russians here
+are not enjoying themselves! My position is most
+serious: no money, and no return ticket!</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 6th.</i>&mdash;I went out early in quest of news,
+and looked in at K&mdash;&mdash; and L&mdash;&mdash;'s. A young
+clerk, pale with excitement and anger, in reply to
+my question: "Gibt es etwas neues?" literally
+hissed at me: "England hat Krieg erkl&auml;rt"
+(England has declared war). It was an awful
+moment, although one was prepared for it in a
+measure, feeling sure that England would be faithful
+to her bond.</p>
+
+<p>Next came the Press announcements, "Das<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span>
+unglaubliche ist Tatsache geworden" (The unbelievable
+is become an accomplished fact). "England,
+who poses as the guardian of morality and all the
+virtues, sides with Russia and assassins!" Abuse
+of Sir Edward Grey, of our Government, and of all
+things English, follows. When vituperation fails,
+the "Frankfurter Zeitung" reminds its readers
+that, after all, such conduct is only what may be
+expected from "Die historische Perfide Albions."
+That it is a blow none the less is shown by more
+than one newspaper beginning "Das Schlimmste
+ist geschehen." (The worst has happened.)
+Miss M&mdash;&mdash;, Miss H&mdash;&mdash;, and I went to the
+"Prince of Wales's Hotel" to see Mr. S&mdash;&mdash;,
+who had made out a list of the English in Altheim,
+and tried to telephone to our Consul in Frankfort
+to ask what he was going to do for our rescue. The
+telephone people refused to send the message
+because we were English! Mr. S&mdash;&mdash; and other
+men here are doing all they can to secure a train
+when the mobilisation is over. He advised us to
+pack up and be ready to start, also not to show
+ourselves out of doors much, as there is the greatest
+fury and indignation at present against the English,
+and to be careful what we said and did. We are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span>
+all terribly anxious, and it is rather trying for me, as
+I am the only woman in the place quite alone.</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 7th.</i>&mdash;Still no help! Innumerable wild
+rumours are flying about. They say that those who
+left Altheim have all come back, unable to get
+farther than Frankfort. We are beginning to feel
+hopeless. Nothing about England is in the German
+papers, and, of course, we see no others. It is
+quite terrible being without news. Last night there
+was great scrubbing and scraping of Altheim shop
+windows, and all the notices: "English spoken
+here" have disappeared.</p>
+
+<p class="figcenter"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span><a href="images/i017.jpg"><img src="images/i017_th.jpg"
+alt="" title="" /></a></p>
+
+<p class="caption">IN KANADA<br />
+
+(<i>Behold the German idea of a Canadian</i>)</p>
+
+<p>There is a mania about spies in Frankfort, we
+hear, and some Americans yesterday were very
+roughly handled because their motor bore a French
+maker's name. The Americans have returned to
+Altheim, and their motor has been taken to fight
+for the Fatherland! Our situation is dreadful, but
+we are keeping up brave hearts. Every day a
+fresh "Bekanntmachung" (notice) appears; that of
+to-day was addressed to the children and called
+upon them to gather in the harvest, the workers
+having gone as soldiers and turned their "pruning
+hooks" into swords. My postcards written in
+German have all come back. One cannot communicate
+with anyone outside Altheim. What a position!
+God in His mercy help us! It seems so
+strange to see German troops marching to the tune
+of "God Save the King," yet it is Germany's
+National Anthem too, and these are the words
+they sing to it:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Heil Dir im Sieger Kranz,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">&nbsp;Herrscher des Vaterlands,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">&nbsp;Heil Kaiser Dir!" etc.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+
+
+<p>A "Warnung" has now been affixed to trees in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span>
+the Avenue forbidding Russians, English, French
+or Belgians to go within 100 metres of the station.
+The Russians are being hardly used, but so far
+Germans are quite nice to us. Mrs. N&mdash;&mdash; tells me
+a gruesome tale of a Russian lady who left her hotel
+for Russia smiling, well dressed, and happy. At
+Giessen all Russians were turned out of the train
+and put into a waiting-room, and locked up there
+without any convenience of food, drink, or beds for
+the night. The following morning they were told
+to come out and soldiers marched them several
+miles into the country to a farm-house. Some of
+the poor creatures were faint from want of food, and
+others had heart disease, and fell exhausted in the
+road, the soldiers prodding them with their bayonets
+to make them get up! After several hours' detention
+there, they were brought back to Altheim,
+where the poor lady arrived a pitiable wreck!
+What an experience! I have been packed up for
+days!</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 8th.</i>&mdash;I went into the Park Strasse this
+morning to buy a "Frankfurter Zeitung." Outside
+the shop where I bought it some American women<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span>
+stood gazing at a map of the war, and one said:
+"I am <i>disgusted</i> with England, just disgusted. So
+degrading of her to help a country like Russia, and
+side with assassins, just degrading! All we
+Americans despise her now." I thought to myself:
+"If I go to prison for it, I will not allow anyone to
+call my country 'degraded and disgusting.'" So I
+said, trembling with wrath, "There is nothing
+'degrading' in being honourable, nor despicable in
+keeping true to your word. England promised to
+protect Belgium's frontier, and she is bound to
+do it."</p>
+
+<p>Several Germans were gathered round the map,
+and they scowled at me until I faced them calmly
+and said: "Jeder man f&uuml;r sein Land" (Every
+man for his country), and they answered quite
+civilly: "Gewiss!" (Certainly). The Americans
+in Altheim, I found afterwards, were chiefly of
+German extraction, which accounted for the
+woman's behaviour.</p>
+
+<p>Early this morning three men arrived to search
+my room for weapons. I was in bed, but they pushed
+past the maid K&auml;thchen, forced their way in, pried
+into every corner, and departed. Emile the housemaid
+here has <i>four</i> brothers at the war. Dreadful<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span>
+rumours are flying about as to our destination.
+One day we hear we are to go to Denmark, another
+to Holland. Sometimes we are told that we shall
+not be allowed to leave Germany until the war is
+over; again that we shall be sent away at a
+moment's notice; that we shall be left at the
+frontier, and have to walk for six hours, and carry
+our own luggage, etc.</p>
+
+<p>The German papers are perfectly horrible in
+their violent abuse of England, and we are so
+miserably anxious, not about ourselves, but about
+our dear, dear country, and how she is faring.
+K&auml;thchen said this morning, "Die deutschen in
+Ausland sind sehr schlecht behandelt" (Germans
+abroad are very badly treated). "See how well
+the foreigners are treated <i>here</i>," by way of impressing
+upon me how thankful I ought to be for my
+mercies.</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 9th.</i>&mdash;No papers! No news! No
+letters! No money! All of us are more or less
+packed up ready to start. We are warned that no
+heavy luggage can go with us, and are limited to
+two small "hand Gep&auml;ck," which we can carry
+ourselves. I have presented my best hats to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span>
+K&auml;thchen, and it consoles me to think how comical
+she will look under them!&mdash;but "flying canvas" is
+the order of the day.</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 10th.</i>&mdash;The "Frankfurter Zeitung"
+calls England "ehrlos" (dishonourable), and the
+Belgian frontier question "only an excuse," and
+even kind, good Dr. G&mdash;&mdash; raged against England.
+One is sick with longing to hear how the war gets
+on from the English point of view. The papers
+here never allude to England's movements&mdash;only to
+her moral delinquencies. I am so poverty-stricken
+now I wash my own pocket-handkerchiefs, guimpes,
+and blouses!</p>
+
+<p>The American part of our community have quite
+recovered their spirits since money has come for
+them. The United States is making every effort to
+rescue her people, and get them back in safety to
+America. No one seems to concern themselves
+about us, and we can't get away while mobilising
+is going on. All Germans show the greatest
+deference to Americans, and call them "our
+honoured guests." We, of course, are the <i>dis</i>honoured
+ones, and in disgrace!</p>
+
+<p>Altheim people so far are passably civil to us,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span>
+but sometimes one has a disagreeable person to deal
+with, as I had to-day at the Bad Haus. The girl
+who stamps our tickets refused to pass mine until I
+could show her my Kur Karte. I had none, and
+told her so, and asked her why I should pay twenty
+marks for a card, when I could not get any of the
+privileges to which it entitled me: the band,
+terrace, reading-room, and so on. Her answer was
+a persistent dogged reiteration of "Sie m&uuml;ssen eine
+Kur Karte haben, sonst k&ouml;nnen Sie nicht baden,"
+and not having twenty marks in the world at
+present I had to come away without my bath.
+Every day there are fresh appeals to the patriotism
+of the people. They are pasted on walls, windows,
+and even trees.</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 12th.</i>&mdash;Such an amusing thing has
+happened. Mr. S&mdash;&mdash; said to Dr. &mdash;&mdash;, "We
+English have captured your Kronprinzessin Cecilie,"
+without saying that he meant the <i>ship</i>, and not the
+<i>lady</i>. As the Government keeps all such disagreeable
+intelligence dark, it was news to the doctor,
+and he stoutly contradicted it, and went round the
+town afterwards telling people: "Just think what
+liars the English are; they say they have captured<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span>
+our Crown Princess!" We learnt of this prize-taking
+from the "Corriere della Sera."</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 13th.</i>&mdash;The newspapers are full of
+German victories and abuse of England. Also
+they declare that the most terrible atrocities have
+taken place in Belgium, where women have despatched
+wounded Germans on the field and shot
+doctors. The indignation is tremendous.</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 14th.</i>&mdash;Permission has at last been given
+for "Fremden" (foreigners) to depart, and also the
+threats and restrictions as to the railway station
+have been removed, but we must submit our passports
+to the police, who send them to Berlin to be
+stamped by the military authorities, and in about a
+week we shall be free. "Gott sei Dank!"</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 15th.</i>&mdash;I went to the Polizei-Amt, a
+dreary little house, and found both yard and staircase
+crammed with people. After waiting a long
+time in the <i>queue</i> I had to beat a retreat, the neighbourhood
+of Polish Jews being too overpowering!
+In the afternoon I ventured again with the same
+result. They say Holland is crammed with
+refugees, and the hotels so full that people are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span>
+sleeping on billiard tables even. We are allowed
+to choose between Switzerland and Holland.</p>
+
+<p>German papers express deepest disappointment
+that Italy has not been "ehrlich" (honourable) to
+her "Dreibund," and yet (extraordinary people) the
+Germans blame us for being true to ours.</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 16th.</i>&mdash;I sent a telegram off to Ems
+this morning, of course written in German, but the
+official behind the little window where I handed it
+in refused to send it until I showed him my passport.
+As I have not yet succeeded in getting
+through the crowds at the police station I still had
+mine. We hear dreadful tales of hardships endured
+by those who have managed to get away from other
+places. Some went by the Rhine steamers, which
+are now running, but wherever they passed a
+fortress they were made to go below. As the
+cabins were not enough for all, preference was given
+to other nationalities, and English people had to
+sit up all night on deck, even in pouring rain. The
+entire absence of news is for us quite terrible. One
+feels so out of the world, not knowing what is
+happening outside our prison doors. The "Frankfurter
+Zeitung" is full of nothing but boasts and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span>
+untruths. A fresh "Bekanntmachung" has been
+posted up forbidding us to leave the town, and
+ordering us to be indoors by nine o'clock.</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 17th.</i>&mdash;The Landsturm has been called
+out and leaves to-day for the Front. These men
+are the last to be requisitioned, being elderly.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>
+After long waiting among Jews, Infidels, and
+Turks, I at last got entrance to the Chief of Police's
+office, had my passport taken, paid one mark fifty,
+and was told to come back on Thursday, when it
+would be returned from Berlin. The Chief was a
+gruff, disagreeable old man, who, to my amiable
+"Guten Tag" and "Adieu" vouchsafed no reply.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> This we were told at the time.</p></div>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 18th.</i>&mdash;A dreadful blow! We English
+are forbidden to go to Holland, and told that our
+destination is to be Denmark. Imagine crossing
+that mined sea now! For reasons of their own
+German authorities will not allow any of us to go
+by or near the Rhine.</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 19th.</i>&mdash;The German Press is to me a
+revelation of bombast, self-righteousness, falsehood,
+and hypocrisy. What shocks one most is the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span>familiar and perpetual calling upon God to witness
+that He alone has led the Germans to victory and
+blessed their cause. I read a poem yesterday,
+which began "Du Gott der Deutschen," as if
+indeed the Deity were the especial property of the
+German Nation! Massacre, pillage, destruction,
+violation of territory, everything wicked God is supposed
+to bless! What hideously distorted minds,
+and where is the sane, if prosaic Teuton of one's
+imaginings! I wake often in the morning and
+wonder if all that has happened here has not been a
+horrible nightmare&mdash;if it can be possible in the
+twentieth century that I, a woman, am a prisoner,
+and for no sin that one has committed. I cannot
+order an Einsp&auml;nner and drive to the station
+without a challenge and danger. I cannot possibly
+get away without my passport. If I attempted to
+drive to the Rhine my fate might be that of the
+poor Russians who were shot the other day. In any
+case I could not leave Germany without my passport
+nor enter Dutch territory without permission
+from the Netherlands Consul at Frankfort. It
+seems all hopeless and heartbreaking.</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 20th.</i>&mdash;Another terrific blow! Fraulein<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span>
+S&mdash;&mdash; came into my room this morning and said:
+"Kein Engl&auml;nder, kein Ausl&auml;nder, kann Deutschland
+verlassen" (no Englishman, no foreigner can
+leave Germany). I rushed off immediately to the
+Polizei Amt and found it only too terribly true.
+Worse! Mr. W&mdash;&mdash; and Mr. S&mdash;&mdash;, who tried to
+arrange for a steamer on the Rhine to take us away,
+have been arrested, and are being tried on a
+trumped-up charge of <i>forgery</i>, and the Company
+who were the go-betweens demand 3,000 marks
+because the boat came a certain distance down
+the river in order to embark us.</p>
+
+<p>(<i>Later</i>) The Englishmen have been acquitted of
+forgery, but we fear we shall have to pay the &pound;120.
+I have one mark left!</p>
+
+<p>There is jubilation all over the town as the
+Germans have taken Belfort. K&auml;thchen enters
+triumphantly. "Unter F&uuml;hrung des Kronprinzen
+von Bayern haben Truppen gestern in Schlachten
+zwischen Metz und den Vogesen noch einen Sieg
+erk&auml;mpft," and she goes on with the weary old
+story of "viele tausend Gefangene" (many
+thousand prisoners).</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 21st.</i>&mdash;I found that charming old<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span>
+American friends of mine, the W&mdash;&mdash;s, were here,
+and I went to see them at the Grand Hotel. They
+have been to a Nach Kur in Thuringia, and have
+had most alarming and unpleasant adventures
+coming back. However, being American their
+pains and penalties are nearly over. A special
+train is to take them and their compatriots to the
+Hague on Wednesday next. They go to the flesh-pots
+of Egypt, and we are left to eat manna in the
+wilderness! They can drive in the country, while
+we poor Britishers may not go outside the town,
+and oh! how sick we are of the avenues and streets
+of the red-roofed Bath Houses and shop windows
+whose contents we know by heart. Mr. W&mdash;&mdash; told
+me a good tale of the <i>chef</i> of a Hotel here, who
+was obliged to obey his country's call and join the
+French forces. When he found German bullets
+whizzing about him at M&uuml;lhausen, he said to
+himself (so the story goes), "What is my duty?
+Is it best for me to let these cursed Germans make
+an end of me, or live to cook another day for my
+country?" He decided that living was his game,
+threw his rifle away, lay flat on his face, and let
+the bullets whistle over him. He was taken
+prisoner to his great relief, and now lies in Frankfort<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span>
+prison where his German brother chef has
+visited him! The French of course are a brave
+nation, but I daresay the poor cook was more at
+home with his pots and pans than with bayonets
+and rifles!</p>
+
+<p>No papers! no letters! no news! no chance of
+escape! Two men were put in prison yesterday for
+laughing at Germany. Two Russians were stopped
+in a motor car, and when arms were found upon
+them they were put up against a wall and shot.</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 22nd.</i>&mdash;Altheim has gone mad with joy
+over the victory near Metz. Church bells chime
+and German children sing "Deutschland &uuml;ber
+Alles" <i>ad nauseam</i>; and the Kur Haus and all
+private dwellings are draped with bunting. Red
+Cross people are busy preparing for the wounded&mdash;sewing
+classes are held every day in Bad Haus 8,
+and the doctors are full of work. Mr. S&mdash;&mdash;, a
+young Englishman, formerly in the army, has been
+arrested, and also the hall-porter of the "Grand,"
+and two English valets.</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 24th.</i>&mdash;A terrible day! First of all
+K&auml;thchen announced with complacency and obvious
+triumph, that there had been a great victory "ganz<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span>
+herrlich!" and that an English Cavalry Brigade
+had been cut to pieces at Lun&eacute;ville, and that those
+who were not killed had "run away"! Of course
+I did not believe this, but it made one terribly
+anxious. Then in came Miss H&mdash;&mdash; saying that
+two men of our little colony had been arrested and
+taken to the police-station, whence after examination
+they were to be sent to Frankfurt. At the
+Polizei Amt the Officials exhibited the results of
+their <i>Kultur</i> by being rude and rough to the unfortunate
+people arrested. A Polish woman whose
+son had been made prisoner sobbed and cried,
+whereupon the grim old inspector came into the
+room and said sternly: "Kein Frauen Jammer
+hier!" ordering her out of the room. I was in
+the Park Strasse and heard some Germans chuckling
+and saying: "Zwei Engl&auml;nder sind verhaftet" (two
+Englishmen are arrested), looked round, and saw
+two of our little community, both service men,
+following each other in Einsp&auml;nners, each surrounded
+by soldiers and fixed bayonets. It was
+anything but a pleasing sight to me!</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 25th.</i>&mdash;The clouds are lifting, thank God!
+Cheering news has come that we are to be allowed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span>
+to leave this delightful country in eight days' time;
+most likely we shall have to travel either by way
+of Switzerland or Denmark. Those sagacious
+personages in Berlin seem to imagine that the
+secrets of the Rhine fortresses will reveal themselves
+to us as we go by! What a compliment
+to our powers of clairvoyance!</p>
+
+<p>Fraulein G&mdash;&mdash; has just been in to see me.
+Usually she is a most pleasant, gentle little woman,
+kind and charming; now she is full of scorn and
+hatred of England. She says the Englishmen were
+arrested because they were heard to say that
+German papers were "full of lies." "So they
+are," said I, "and you can go now and get me
+arrested too." "Oh, no," said she, "I would not
+tell on <i>you</i>!" In spite of her magnanimity I cannot
+think our interview was a success. We argued
+until I said, "If we are to remain friends, we must
+not discuss the war. I <i>can</i>not think England
+wrong, and as a loyal German you think Germany
+right. Don't let us talk about it any more."</p>
+
+<p>The "Frankfurter Zeitung" declares that no
+workmen in England will fight for their country,
+only the "mercenaries" who are well paid to risk
+their lives. Oh, this life is hard to bear! Such<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span>
+intense, frightful hatred speaks in every look, in
+every action of our enemies. It is consoling to
+remember that their own Nietzsche says: "One
+does not hate as long as one dis-esteems, and only
+when one esteems an equal or superior."</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 26th.</i>&mdash;A chauffeur at the Bellevue was
+arrested to-day and taken to Frankfort. He is
+only twenty, a Glasgow lad, and absolutely harmless.</p>
+
+<p>I am so sick of "Heil Dir im Sieger Kranz"
+that as the children pass my villa shouting it or
+"Was ist des Deutschen Vaterland?" I go out
+on my balcony and retaliate by singing "Rule
+Britannia." Small children with flags and paper
+cocked hats, toy swords and tiny drums march
+through the streets, day after day, singing patriotic
+songs, whilst (poor dears!) their fathers are being
+slaughtered in thousands. No reverses are ever
+reported in the German papers, nothing but victories
+appear, and Germans are treated like children. If
+it were not for the "Corriere della Sera" we
+should be tempted to believe the Allies in a bad
+way. The "beehrte g&auml;ste" departed this morning.
+At the station a band played, flags were waved,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span>
+and every American man and woman was presented
+with a small white book which contained the telegrams
+which passed between the belligerent nations
+at the beginning of the war. Again we hear that
+Copenhagen is to be our destination.</p>
+
+<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/i033.jpg"><img src="images/i033_th.jpg"
+alt="" title="" /></a></p>
+
+<p class="caption">IN POLYNESIEN<br />
+(The German idea of an Australian)]</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 27th.</i>&mdash;I saw Dr. G&mdash;&mdash; this morning.
+He begged me to be most careful what I said.
+Two patients of his (English) Levantines were
+talking on the Terrace, and one said to the other,
+"We had better shave off our moustaches, or we
+shall be taken for military men." They were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span>
+promptly arrested, having been overheard by a
+spy. We are now ordered to get health certificates,
+which are to go to Frankfort, and be forwarded
+to the military authorities in Berlin. There is an
+idea that we may go away on Tuesday next. We
+have found out that our passports never went to
+Berlin at all, but are lying at this moment in
+the drawer of that old demon in the "Polizei-Amt."</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 28th.</i>&mdash;Nothing new. The German
+papers, as usual, full of their victories and their
+piety, and their patriotism, and their "Kultur,"
+and goodness knows what not besides. Both
+Kaisers praising each other and distributing iron
+crosses <i>ad lib.</i>, early though it be in the day. No
+mention of English troops or England, except to
+abuse the "Verfl&uuml;chte" English.</p>
+
+<p>A train of wounded men arrived yesterday, and
+bandaged and lame soldiers are to be seen limping
+about the town, looking ghastly pale and ill. At
+the Lazarett behind the "Prince of Wales' Hotel"
+there are many sad cases. The Red Cross Society
+has made every provision for their comfort and
+happiness possible. Sheets have been hemmed,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span>
+pillow cases sewn, bandages got ready. The
+Germans, however, are chary of admitting English
+women to share their labours, and those who
+go and offer to help meet with a very chilly
+reception.</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 29th.</i>&mdash;An account has come of the
+battle of St. Quentin. The "Frankfurter Zeitung"
+calls it "decisive," and says that the German army
+has cut off the English army from its base.</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 30th.</i>&mdash;Joy at last! Even the "Frankfurter
+Zeitung" acknowledges that there has been
+a fight in the North Sea, and that we have sunk
+German ships, but, of course, it was "overpowering
+numbers and larger ships" that did it, and the
+Germans covered themselves with glory as usual.
+I came home and hung out my flag, the best I could
+do, a red silk dressing jacket, lined with white, and
+draped over a blue silk parasol, which I tied knob
+out, to look like a pole.</p>
+
+<p>On our church door to-day was posted a typewritten
+notice: "We have smashed your army on
+the French Continent,(!) and we will smash <i>you
+too</i> if you dare to ring your bell!"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>August 31st.</i>&mdash;I heard a small boy singing to-day:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Wo liegt Paris, Paris liegt Hier,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">&nbsp;Den fingen drauf' Das nehmen Wir."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>I pray it may not prove prophetic, but they all
+talk of occupying Paris as a certainty, and the German
+Emperor has invited a number of his Generals
+to dine with him there on the 12th of September.
+I hear that a doctor went into the Prince of Wales'
+Hotel to-day, and saw stuck up in the hall the
+words: "Das Seegefecht in der Nordsee" (in
+which of course we were victorious). He tore it
+down and stamped on it. An altruistic German
+waiter thinking to please the English guests had
+put the first sheet of the "Frankfurter Zeitung" in
+a prominent position to console them for the many
+defeats we are supposed to have had. John Burns'
+speech at the Albert Hall is reported in full in the
+German newspapers, headed "Eine Rede des
+ehemaligen Englischen Minister, John Burns.
+England gegen seine wahren interessen" (a speech
+of the former English minister,<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> John Burns.
+England against her true interests). No passports
+yet! No release! This suspense is wearing!</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> This speech I have since learnt was an absolute invention.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span></p></div>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>September 1st.</i>&mdash;The sentimentality of the
+Germans is amazing! They cannot even insert a
+simple notice of a death on the battlefield without
+this sickly parade, "Heute starb den Heldentod
+furs Vaterland, unser innigste-geliebter einziger
+Sohn," etc. Always a "hero's death" and "for
+his Fatherland." A fresh "Bekanntmachung" has
+appeared, we prisoners of war are not to leave the
+town, not to stand in groups ("rotten" they call it)
+talking in the streets, to be in our houses at 9 p.m.,
+etc. Two ex-Frankfort prisoners have been sent
+for by the Chief of the Police accused of indiscreet
+talking. "I hear," said the great man, "you say you
+were fed on nothing but bread and water in prison."
+"No," said Mr. &mdash;&mdash;, "I had soup in the middle of
+the day, and coffee and bread at night, and in the
+morning." "Then why do you tell lies!" Such
+utter childishness, to believe every scrap of unkind
+gossip!</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>September 2nd.</i>&mdash;We are buoyed up with hope,
+as they talk of our getting away this week! It <i>will</i>
+be delightful to leave this perpetual bell-ringing and
+flag-waving and Vaterlandslieder behind us!</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>September 3rd.</i>&mdash;The whole of Altheim went<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span>
+mad last night, processions, bands, marchings all
+night, and such a noise that at last a nurse had to
+come out from the Lazarett near the Park and beg
+the revellers to think of the poor wounded sick,
+and spare them. No one could sleep! The last
+blow has come, our church is closed!</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>September 4th.</i>&mdash;Despair! The American Ambassador
+at Berlin has telegraphed that we English
+are not to leave! The Russians are going, but our
+treatment is retaliatory, because they say England
+is detaining German women, and Russia lets them
+go. To make all worse Fraulein S&mdash;&mdash;, tired of
+keeping me so long for nothing, has given me notice
+to quit at the moment when for three days I have
+had no greater fortune than 2<i>d.</i> in my pocket.
+Where I am to go, or who will take me in without
+money I can't imagine! The American Ambassador
+in Berlin and Mr. Ives, the American Vice-Consul
+at Frankfort, are working untiringly and most
+kindly for us. We do not complain of actual harsh
+treatment, although to be turned adrift in the world
+without money by one whose tenant I had been
+for five years is hardly kind. However, war is war
+undoubtedly. Mr. Ives is from the Southern States,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span>
+Mr. H&mdash;&mdash;, his Chief, from the Northern. The
+Scotch chauffeur has been released after a week in
+prison. He looks pale and dispirited, "a sadder,"
+and no doubt "a wiser man."</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>September 5th.</i>&mdash;The "Times" of the 5th
+August has turned up in Altheim. It has gone the round of our little community until such a worn,
+creased remnant reached me, that I had much ado
+to keep it together until I could master its contents.
+One felt a second Rip Van Winkle, awaking after a
+long sleep, our world being so confined here. At
+last I have discovered how to get money from
+England. One writes to the American Embassy
+in Berlin, and encloses a telegram (with postal
+order for the same) to one's banker in London, instructing
+him to pay the sum of money wanted to
+the American Embassy in London, to be forwarded
+through their kind offices to the Embassy in Berlin.
+The telegram to be written on a sheet of foolscap
+paper, with the full name and address of the sender,
+and the name also of the nearest American Consul.
+No letters can be sent through this channel.</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>September 6th.</i>&mdash;No church now! Even that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span>
+taken from us! The American Vice-Consul has
+been here, and still thinks that we may get away in
+a fortnight. We are sick with hoping and being
+disappointed. The German Press full of the most
+virulent abuse of England, "treacherous," "hypocritical,"
+"lying," "cowardly," "boastful," there is
+no bad name they don't call her! Russia and
+France and Belgium get no lashings of scorn and
+fury and hatred such as England does! At last
+the account of Sir Edward Goschen's interviews
+with Von Jagow and Bethmann Hollweg has
+appeared in the German papers. I had read it all
+in the "Corriere della Sera" long ago. They talk
+of stopping Italian papers in Germany since they
+are pro-English (in German, "lying").</p>
+
+<p>Most of my English friends here went to the
+German church to-day. The Pfarrer pointed out
+to his congregation how clearly God had favoured
+their cause, how victory had followed victory, the
+virtuous, religious people triumphing over the
+wicked, ungodly nations. Then he spoke of the
+day so near when Germany should annihilate the
+"Macht von England," and teach her when
+crushed and humbled "die Wahrheit," Religion and
+Morality! Humph!</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>September 7th.</i>&mdash;Wonder of wonders! no<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span>
+bell-ringing to-day, nor processions of singing
+youngsters, so we hope there is a lull in the
+"Sieges."</p>
+
+<p>Miss H&mdash;&mdash; went last week to have her hair
+washed, and during the process her hair-dresser
+remarked casually to her, "We shall be in Paris in
+a day or two, and in London in another week, and
+when we have conquered England as well as
+France you will all have to learn to speak German."
+This shows the amazing conceit and
+arrogance of the people. Poor, ignorant things,
+they are quite hoodwinked by their rulers&mdash;and
+even look forward to seeing their Kaiser "Emperor
+of Europe"! One day we read that a bag has
+been made of 30,000 Russians, the next that the
+number was understated, and that it is 70,000. As
+for Belgians and French, every day 10,000 men
+and guns <i>ad lib.</i> are captured, and the poor silly
+people believe it all. Villas and streets are still
+beflagged, and by this time we know every patriotic
+song in the "Vaterlandslieder" book by heart.
+One tries to be plucky, but our hearts are very sad
+just now.</p>
+
+<p>Paris seems doomed, and apparently the French<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span>
+have abandoned hope too, since Poincar&eacute; and his
+Cabinet have gone to Bordeaux. The German
+Press call him a "Feiger" (Coward).</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>September 9th.</i>&mdash;Unaccountably the forward
+march seems to have been checked, although we
+don't know why. Maubeuge has fallen, and of
+course the usual bell-ringing and bunting and
+singing has celebrated the victory. We cannot
+understand what our troops are doing. There is
+no mention of them in the German papers, only
+columns of sneers and abuse of England.</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>September 10th.</i>&mdash;A rumour has reached us that
+the Crown Prince has been captured, and that the
+enemy is retreating. No official confirmation has
+come to hand however; but the flags are down at
+last, and the jangling of bells has ceased, and we
+have not heard "Deutschland &uuml;ber Alles" for
+twenty-four hours, "Gott sei Dank"! Prince
+Joachim is wounded, and he has sent a telegram
+worded after the manner of his dear Papa, thanking
+God who in His goodness permitted him to be
+wounded for his beloved Fatherland. I wonder
+what Frederick the Great would have thought of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span>
+these boastful warriors. We English are looked
+upon with horror as the brutal barbarians who use
+dum dum bullets, and Sir Edward Grey's dignified
+disclaimer is reported under the polite heading
+"Grey leugnet" (Grey lies).</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>September 11th.</i>&mdash;Nothing new in the situation,
+but we rejoice to see grave faces and groups looking
+solemn in the streets, and talking in subdued
+voices, and thank God! we hear no bell-ringing!
+Everything cheering we read in the "Corriere della
+Sera" is denied in the "Frankfurter Zeitung" or
+given as a production of the "L&uuml;gen Fabrik"
+(manufactory of lies).</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>September 12th.</i>&mdash;The Germans seem depressed,
+no flags, no bands, and although there is a
+notice posted up in the town to say that the Crown
+Prince has achieved another victory, there is
+evidently something unsatisfactory in the background
+to counterbalance this. I draw deductions
+from the "Frankfurter Zeitung," which has a bitter
+article entitled "Torheiten" (Folly), and which
+speaks of the "Kindische Freudengeheul"
+(childish howls of joy) of the English and French<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span>
+Press, because "ein parr Kalonnen deutscher
+Soldaten ein Stuck weges zur&uuml;ckgezogen haben"
+(two columns of German soldiers had withdrawn a
+bit of the way back). Then the writer contrasts
+the boastful words ("prahlender w&ouml;rte") of
+England with the self-restraint and pious calm
+and virtuous behaviour of Germany. One has
+only to look at the postcards in the Park Strasse to
+see which of the combatants is boastful. England
+is drawn as ignominiously lying on the ground
+(when she isn't running away) and Germany
+invariably is kicking or thrashing her.</p>
+
+<p>People are less friendly than at first, though the
+bath attendants, people in the Inhalatorium, and
+doctors are most kind. I had tea at M&uuml;ller's with
+Miss H&mdash;&mdash; the other day. There were at least
+thirty empty chairs in the tea-room, but a German
+woman marched up to the chair on which I had
+laid my daily newspaper, and ordered me to take it
+off, as she must have my chair! She was stout
+and ugly, and had a way of doing her hair which,
+as a writer says, "alone would have proved
+impeccable virtue in the face of incriminating
+circumstantial evidence." For all their "Kultur"
+Germans are gross, and to the last degree inartistic.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span>
+Their "<i>nouveau art</i>" is repulsive; their dressing
+outrageously ugly, and their cooking atrocious. I
+have watched them here year after year tramping
+up and down the shady walks stolidly drinking,
+wearing garments of ingeniously devised ugliness
+and blind to "<i>l'inutile beaut&eacute;</i>." There is no variety
+of type nor individuality of person in either men
+or women. These worthy <i>Hausfrauen</i> have no
+grace of dainty frills, diaphanous lace or rustling
+petticoats. They are obviously and incontestably
+of the class described by a witty writer to whom "a
+lace petticoat is as much a badge of infamy as a
+cigarette on the stage." The German proletariat
+cannot be susceptible to externals, else the universal
+sad-coloured skirt, the ill-fitting blouse and
+the ugly hat worn by his women-folk could not find
+favour in his eyes.</p>
+
+<p>Life in Altheim has changed under war conditions.
+The Kur Haus is closed, there are no
+teas on the Terrace or promenadings to the strains
+of Grieg or Strauss, or theatrical performances.
+The German Kur-G&auml;ste have left, and only the
+Russian, English and a few Belgian prisoners of
+war remain. Russians here are chiefly of a very
+low class. Most of the women go about bareheaded,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span>
+and all are rough and unkempt and dirty-looking.
+I fancy some of them have suffered much
+privation, but happily their order of release has
+come. They will have to travel by Denmark,
+Sweden and across to Petrograd. The weather is
+autumnal, and they have only summer clothes, like
+us. We cannot help them, having so little money
+ourselves. I have had to borrow twice, and tried
+to sell my jewellery without success, but I have
+developed a latent and unsuspected talent for
+laundry work. The pretty summer shops in the
+Park Strasse are now closed, and the sound of
+beating mattresses is heard everywhere; the blinds
+of most of the villas are drawn down, and the
+families having no longer lodgers have descended to
+their winter quarters on the ground floor. Only a
+few <i>einsp&auml;nners</i> are left, as both <i>Kutschers</i> and
+horses are gone to meet a "Heldentod" for their
+Fatherland.</p>
+
+<p>One sees white-capped nurses and Red Cross
+Ambulance men and wounded and bandaged warriors
+everywhere. When recovered, the soldiers
+get three days leave to visit their families, and
+then return to the Front. Poor souls! Shops are
+chiefly tended by women nowadays, and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span>
+German Frau is not a capable shopkeeper like the
+French woman. A "Drogerie" here is presided
+over by the wife of the man who owns it, in his
+absence at the war. She is a gentle, rather pretty
+creature, but amazingly slow and stupid. If tooth-powder
+be asked for, she mounts a ladder, searches
+among a hundred bottles, shakes her head despairingly,
+and wonders where her "Mann" has put
+it. Outside her K&uuml;che and house, the German
+woman does not shine, but she is a faithful unselfish
+wife, and a good and affectionate mother. Mr.
+Ives thinks we shall certainly get away next week.
+I hope so! The weather is cold and rainy, and
+there is no fire-place in my room.</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>September 13th.</i>&mdash;The Altheim daily papers
+complain that they are inundated with foolish
+questions over the telephone. "Ist Namur
+belgisch oder franz&ouml;sisch?" (Is Namur Belgian or
+French?)</p>
+
+<p>"Gehen die Schottl&auml;nder wirklich mit nackten
+Beinen in die Schlacht?" (Do the Highlanders
+really go into battle with naked legs?)</p>
+
+<p>"Wie lange wird es ungef&auml;hr dauern, bis die
+Deutschen Paris eingenommen haben?" (How<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span>
+long will it be before the Germans have taken
+Paris?) and so on.</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>September 14th.</i>&mdash;Again rumours of our going,
+but even though release will be most welcome, we
+all dread the journey. Terrible tales come to us of
+the treatment meted out to foreigners crossing the
+frontier. Many English were turned out of
+Wiesbaden and sent here. At F&mdash;&mdash; they had
+their luggage searched, and the ladies of the party
+were stripped to the skin by women who even
+combed their hair to see if by any ingenuity they
+had concealed plans and drawings in the puffs and
+coils, two soldiers with fixed bayonets mounting
+guard meanwhile outside. No doubt we shall
+remember this journey to the end of our lives, but
+what can you expect from a people whose Prophet
+Nietzsche says, "What is more harmful than any
+vice? Pity for the weak and helpless&mdash;Christianity!"</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>September 15th.</i>&mdash;The singular absence of humour
+of the Germans often amuses me. I think it
+was Palmerston who described Germany as "that
+land of damned Professors." They are all so desperately<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span>
+in earnest, and their "Kultur" is so serious,
+that jokes and fun seem like blasphemy. My
+penury has again been relieved by Mr. S&mdash;&mdash;'s kind
+loan of &pound;1. Lady M&mdash;&mdash; came in to tell me that
+the American Vice-Consul had telegraphed to Mr.
+W&mdash;&mdash; the good news that we are all to go on
+Monday, Tuesday or Wednesday next. I have
+heard this story so often that I am utterly sceptical.
+We conclude that things are going badly for the
+enemy, since there is no bell-ringing, and the flags
+have been taken in.</p>
+
+<p class="figcenter"><a href="images/i049.jpg"><img src="images/i049_th.jpg"
+alt="" title="" /></a></p>
+
+<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">NUR IN LONDON NICHT</span><br />
+(<i>But not in London!</i>)</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>September 16th.</i>&mdash;I hear that no men who have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span>
+served in the Army or Navy are to be allowed to
+go with us. To-day's "Frankfurter Zeitung"
+thinks that England must be at her last gasp, or
+she would not have "barbarians such as Indians,
+Japanese and <i>Highlanders</i>" fighting her battles for
+her! They also declare on "unimpeachable
+evidence" that India is in a state of revolt, and that
+the Japanese are to be despatched at once to quell
+the rebellion. Any misfortune to the British
+delights them.</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>September 17th.</i>&mdash;The B&mdash;&mdash;s, who to our envy
+have received special passes to go to Denmark, got
+as far as Hamburg and then had their passports
+taken from them. The Chaplain and his wife disappeared
+one morning, and we learn that he obtained
+a special pass on the ground of being a clergyman.
+He was heard to utter something about the
+"Bishop of London," and perhaps that was the
+talisman. Lady M&mdash;&mdash; tells me that they have
+arrived in Hamburg, we wonder what their fate
+will be!</p>
+
+<p>A delightful story has just reached me from an
+Italian source. In the church of a Convent
+Hospital in France, one of the sisters was praying<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span>
+aloud with immense fervour, and when she came to
+the "Confiteor" she said: "C'est ma faute! c'est
+ma faute! c'est ma tr&egrave;s grande faute," whereupon
+uprose a Turco crying out: "Ah! non! ma Soeur!
+c'est la faute &agrave; Guilleaume!"</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>September 18th.</i>&mdash;A letter at last! but only one
+from the American Consul at Frankfort, saying that
+the Foreign Office wanted to know my whereabouts
+as several friends had inquired about me and my
+safety. I can't imagine why, when America
+rescued her stranded citizens long ago, and sent
+them money to get home, we should be suffering
+like this. Nothing more about the phantom train!
+Our nerves are becoming wrought up, and we are
+developing unexpectedly irritable and argumentative
+natures. The weather is amazingly windy and
+horribly cold, one shivers in summer garments, and
+cannot afford to buy warmer things. A leading
+article in the "Frankfurter Zeitung" gives us a
+grain of comfort, since it is headed "Geduld
+und Zuversicht" (patience and confidence), and
+begins,</p>
+
+<p>"In consequence of the victorious news of the
+first weeks, those remaining at home had become<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span>
+accustomed to constant victories, and the pause in
+the news of the battlefield of the West is a great
+trial of patience." Long may that trial last! On
+the whole we ought to be thankful that we are in
+Hesse and not in Prussia. The Hessians are a
+simple, kindly people, pleasant, and good tempered.
+I have known Germany well for eighteen years.
+When first we travelled in the Fatherland I found
+each Duchy, or Kingdom, or Principality, devoted
+to its own particular Ruler, and little outside it
+mattered to its people. Nowadays there are no
+Hessians or W&uuml;rtembergers, not even Saxons or
+Bavarians, but all are Germans, and for one
+photograph of the Grand Duke of Hesse and his
+Duchess you will see here one hundred of "Unser
+Kaiser" and "Unsere Kaiserin." They have
+become Imperialists, and the ambitious spirit which
+animates them is shown by the act of a soldier at
+Li&egrave;ge who chalked up on a wall: "Kaiser Wilhelm
+the Second, Emperor of Europe."</p>
+
+<p>I have now 2<i>d.</i> left in the world, and have not
+taken my inhalation for two days, not being able to
+pay for it. The money I telegraphed for has not
+yet come, and life seems very difficult! I think of
+the old lines:<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"'Tis a very good world we live in,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">&nbsp;&nbsp;To lend, or to spend, or to give in;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">&nbsp;&nbsp;But to beg, or to borrow, or get a man's own,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">&nbsp;&nbsp;'Tis the very worst world that ever was known."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>September 19th.</i>&mdash;At the eleventh hour and
+when I seemed at the end of my resources, help
+came from a most unexpected quarter! I can never
+cease to be grateful for the goodness and kindness
+which relieved my distress. The Germans look
+downcast, the Russians jubilant. How paternal
+this Government is no one who has not lived in
+Germany can imagine. For instance, above the
+nearest pillar box I saw a notice written "Don't
+forget address and stamps!"</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>September 20th.</i>&mdash;Our passports are now in the
+hands of the military authorities at Frankfort, and
+Mr. Ives, the American Vice-Consul, is doing all
+in his power to get us leave to go. The Superintendent
+of the Inhalatorium is most kind and
+sympathetic. She inquired why I had not been
+there for three days, and when I told her "Gar
+kein Geld" (no money) was the cause, she cried
+with real feeling, "Schrecklich!" (terrible). Any
+thing to do with money or the want of it appeals<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span>
+to the Teutonic mind, although the Germans sneer
+at us for being a nation of shopkeepers. There
+are two words we hope never to hear again,
+"Kultur" and "Unser." "Unser Deutschland,"
+"Unser Kaiser," "Unser Kultur." How weary
+and trite are these! What an extraordinary
+mixture the Germans are, brave, conceited, sentimental,
+prosaic, patriotic, and yet no people so
+soon lose their national characteristics, and become
+citizens of another country as Germans. Many of
+their intellectual poses are absolutely morbid.
+They adore Ibsen as a playwright and despise
+Goldsmith and Sheridan; they worship Gauguin,
+and the school of Impressionists, and have little
+appreciation nowadays for pre-Raphaelitism. They
+are intensely and truly musical, and it is amazing,
+taking into consideration their extraordinary lack
+of humour, that they should be such accomplished
+students of Shakespeare, but of real wit or humour
+the German possesses not an atom. Take, for instance,
+the modern novels of Suderman, of Rudolph
+Herzog, of Rudolph Stratz, of Bernard Kellerman,
+of Paul Heyse, and you will find intense seriousness,
+tragedy, pathos, masterly drawing of character, and
+absolutely no fun from cover to cover. As for the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span>
+"Fliegende Bl&auml;tter," the German "Punch," it is the
+sickliest imitation of humour possible to conceive.
+Foremost in science, the German is yet a neophyte
+in the graces and arts of life. What cooking!
+what clothes!</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>September 22nd.</i>&mdash;If we may believe such good
+news we are to be released from this irksome life,
+and set at liberty next Saturday. Our joy is much
+damped, however, by hearing that none of the men
+are to be allowed to leave, and, of course, their
+wives stay with them. Mr. Ives has made a special
+journey to Berlin on behalf of our poor men, but the
+authorities are obdurate.</p>
+
+<p>People say that the loss of life in this terrible
+war is beyond belief as far as the Germans are
+concerned. To hide this the Emperor requests
+that no one shall wear mourning for the dead until
+the war is over. Also, no complete catalogues of
+casualties are issued, only lists for each kingdom,
+or duchy, so that the bulk of the people have no
+idea of the waste of life. The wounded being so
+numerous, the doctors now have little time to attend
+to them on the spot, and therefore they are put into
+trains and sent off to "Lazaretts" sometimes before<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span>
+even their wounds are washed. A Belgian lady
+who had a special police permit to go to Frankfort,
+returned this afternoon in a train full of wounded
+soldiers. One of these was put into her carriage.
+He had been badly shot in the arm; his sleeve was
+soaked with blood, and that had coagulated; his
+wound had never been washed, and French earth
+was still on his boots, and yet he had been sent in
+this condition from Rheims to Giessen!</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>September 23rd.</i>&mdash;Terrible news! A telegram
+was posted up in the town this morning, saying that
+three English "Panzerkreuzers" had been sunk by
+one German submarine. Of course the church
+bells pealed, and the flags came out, and the
+children sang "Nun danket alle Gott," because
+950 brave Englishmen had gone under. We are
+much depressed, and our depression is aggravated
+by the want of occupation here. We dare not
+sketch for fear of being "verhaftet" (arrested). It
+is no good writing because every scrap of paper
+will be taken from us on the frontier; nobody I
+know plays bridge, and so I read and walk all day
+long. Miss H&mdash;&mdash; tells me that a rude young clerk
+in the "L&ouml;wen-Apotheke" refused to talk English<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span>
+to her this morning, "You will have to learn
+German now, because we shall be in London
+within a fortnight," said he! No German I have
+yet known foresees any other result of this war but
+success. The Fatherland Commissariat, according
+to the Italian papers, leaves much to be desired.
+The unfortunate soldiers are almost starving, and
+often live for days together on raw carrots, turnips,
+herbs, or any other vegetable they can root up out
+of the ground. The doctors are puzzled because
+men have died of such seemingly slight wounds.
+One case seemed so incomprehensible that an
+autopsy was decided on, and a raw root with
+fragments of earth upon it was found in the poor
+creature's stomach. The Russians left at 5 a.m.
+this morning, men and women. It is more than
+hard that our poor men should be left behind.
+Lady M&mdash;&mdash;, who has been ill, and her daughter,
+an invalid lady, and her maid, were given special
+passes to go a couple of days ago. Miss M&mdash;&mdash; and
+Miss G&mdash;&mdash; went to the police station armed
+with these passes, and requested to have their
+passports back. "The Demon" curtly refused.
+"But you <i>must</i> give them to us," said Miss M&mdash;&mdash;. "Don't
+say <i>m&uuml;ssen</i> to me!" said "the Demon,"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span>
+"<i>bitten</i> is the word!" (Don't say <i>must</i> to me, <i>beg</i>
+is the word).</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>September 24th.</i>&mdash;Joyfully packing! A last
+meeting was held at the "Prince of Wales' Hotel"
+where kind Mr. S&mdash;&mdash; presided, and we all received
+instructions for our journey, and our long detained
+passports!</p>
+
+<p>Fifty women and children go. We sleep in
+Frankfort, and cross from Flushing to Folkestone.
+Oh! that terrible mined sea, and the "untersuchung"
+of the Frontier. I tremble for this
+Diary, all letters I have destroyed.</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><span class="smcap">Frankfort</span>, <i>September 25th.</i>&mdash;We are still in
+the enemy's country of course, but have come out
+of our prison Altheim. All were early at the
+Bahn-Hof. There for the last time, please God!
+we found our old horror the Chief of Police. He
+had a long paper in his hand, and read out our
+names; "Hamilton?" "Here!" "Your passport?"
+(which he scrutinised as if he had never
+seen such a thing before), and so on. As we got
+our precious papers back we passed through the
+barrier, where our tickets were clipped, and on to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span>
+the platform above. The train when it came
+in was crammed with soldiers, and we were
+advised to wait two hours for the next, but (to a
+woman) we all preferred travelling third, or even
+fourth class, rather than remain another hour
+where we had suffered so much. Miss G&mdash;&mdash; told
+me afterwards that she had travelled with
+two German men, who cursed England up
+and down, using the most horrible language
+about her.</p>
+
+<p>Presently a wounded soldier came into the
+carriage, and they asked him where he had been
+fighting. "On the Western Frontier," said he.</p>
+
+<p>"With the French?"</p>
+
+<p>"Yes."</p>
+
+<p>"Did you see the English?"</p>
+
+<p>"No."</p>
+
+<p>"Of course not! They had all run away.
+Cowards, cowards!"</p>
+
+<p>These are the things which make life so unendurable
+in an enemy's land. I was sent here to
+the "Hessicher-Hof," which, although it masquerades
+under another name, I had no difficulty in
+recognising as the former "Englischer-Hof." Miss
+H&mdash;&mdash; went to the "Hotel Bristol," and when<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span>
+she got there found over the door the one word
+"Hotel." What we women should have done
+without the able committee who arranged all details
+for us with such kindness and thoroughness, I
+cannot imagine.</p>
+
+<p class="entry"><i>September 28th.</i>&mdash;There were few tears shed
+when we steamed out of Frankfort two days ago on
+our way to home and freedom. It was wonderful
+to feel that we might talk above a whisper in the
+railway-carriage; amazing that we had not to
+scrutinize carefully every corner to be sure no
+spies lurked there, and most delightful of all
+to know that we had got beyond the reach of
+the Demon of the Burg-Strasse. Egotistically
+enough we went over in retrospect our anxieties,
+disappointments and miseries. Should we ever
+get rid of that evil shadow, we wondered, which
+had darkened so cruelly two weary months of
+our lives!</p>
+
+<p>Now and then we looked out of the windows
+with distaste&mdash;agreed that the outskirts of Frankfort
+were hideous with their obtrusive and insistent
+collection of factory chimneys; and shuddered at
+the distant and beautiful background of mountain<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span>
+and forest, to us so teeming with painful memories.
+We exclaimed at the unsightliness of the huge
+skeleton lettering proclaiming to all the world that
+a <i>maschinen-Fabrik</i> was below. Even when we
+entered a bucolic region of modest gardens and saw
+nothing more aggressive than cabbages and turnips,
+we turned away from the sight with aversion.
+Yet the villages are picturesque enough, and
+so are the towns. Timber-framed and gabled
+houses, steeply pitched red roofs and stunted grey
+and mossy church spires, certainly make no unpleasing
+picture. In happier days I have admired
+the grape-vines meandering over the whitewashed
+cottages, and marvelled at the monotony of taste
+which furnished every window-ledge with exactly
+four pots of scarlet geraniums. Now, nothing
+pleased us that was German; scenery, architecture
+or people! "This," we said to ourselves, is "the
+sunny Rhineland through which we are passing,
+and we see no obvious signs as we go by of the
+struggle which is devastating Belgium and menacing
+France." At the first station, however, we realised
+that Germany was indeed at war. Red Cross
+nurses seemed everywhere. Long tables were
+spread with snowy cloths and bore coffee urns,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span>
+zwiebacks, h&ouml;rnchen and huge bowls of steaming
+soup ready for the poor wounded as they pass
+through. Now and then pale bandaged faces
+looked out at us from passing trains, and men on
+crutches hobbled by, and the horrors of mutilating
+war came home to us all. At Goch we had to
+show our passports, and have our luggage
+examined, but the reality proved not nearly so bad
+as our imaginings, and on the whole the officials
+were kind and courteous compared to our Altheim
+demon. The sun was setting blood-red behind a
+distant line of black forest when we left Goch and
+our enemies and imprisonment behind us and
+entered the Land of Promise.</p>
+
+<p>We had all been saddened in the morning
+to learn that Mr. Ives' strenuous efforts to get
+permission for the men left behind to go soon, had
+met with a curt refusal from the Commandant at
+Frankfort. "When England returns our men, not
+before, and she had better be quick about it," said
+he. But how true is Rochefoucauld's cynical
+epigram&mdash;"Nous avons tous assez de force pour
+supporter les maux d'Autrui!" Even our
+sympathy with, and sorrow for, those left in
+Altheim could not damp the joy we felt to be free<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span>
+again; and when we quitted Goch, the German
+frontier station, I thought how blessed would be
+that day when "They shall beat their swords into
+ploughshares and their spears into pruning hooks;
+nation shall not lift up a sword against nation,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span>
+neither shall they learn war any more. But
+they shall sit every man under his vine and
+under his fig-tree; and none shall make them
+afraid."</p>
+
+<!--[Blank Page]-->
+
+
+<hr style="margin-bottom: 0em" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="GERMAN_TRAVEL_NOTES" id="GERMAN_TRAVEL_NOTES"></a>GERMAN TRAVEL NOTES</h2>
+
+<p><!--[Blank Page]--><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span></p>
+
+<h3><a name="TAKIN_NOTES" id="TAKIN_NOTES"></a>"TAKIN' NOTES"</h3>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">He</span> who knows his Rhine and loves it must take of
+its charms in small doses, or satiety is the outcome.
+There are those, of course, who can travel from
+Dan to Beersheba and cry, "'Tis all barren"; but
+the ordinarily intelligent traveller may find much to
+delight and interest on the banks of the Rhine,
+always provided that he suits his mood to his
+environment, and takes but little of Rhine scenery
+at a time. For surely between Coblentz and
+Bingen there is an iteration as regards castles and
+ruins which is downright wearisome. Do we not
+between these points find Lahneck, Marksburg,
+Sterrenberg, Liebenstein, The Mouse, Rheinfels,
+The Cat, Sch&ouml;nburg, Gutenfels, The Pfalz,
+Stahleck, Furstenberg, Hohneck, Sooneck, Falkenburg,
+Rheinstein, and Ehrenfels?</p>
+
+<p>Moreover, there is an affinity of form and colour
+and, indeed, of situation between all these which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span>
+produces the effect of perpetual repetition. And we
+owe Byron a grudge for having written such trite
+words as "the castled crag" in relation to the
+Rhine, since no commonplace mind of the present
+day acquainted with his works but has fallen back
+on "the castled crag" to describe Drachenfels or
+Marksburg or Rheinfels, because, forsooth, its own
+English is too limited to supply a better adjective.
+So it is that conventional and inadequate English
+is perpetuated and individual force and expression
+are lost because people accept the ideas of others
+and will not seek language to convey their own.</p>
+
+<p>All of which above prosing is the result of a day
+on the Rhine when the thermometer registered 74&deg;
+to 84&deg; in the shade, and a white vapour hid the
+banks of the river from K&ouml;ln till close on Bonn.
+At Bonn a huge party of "personally-conducted"
+American tourists came on board. Their sharp,
+keen, eager, shrewd faces and shrill voices proclaimed
+their nationality at the outset. They were
+all obviously outside the pale of Society, and their
+thirst for information and keen interest in their
+surroundings were amazing. One learned before
+long that they had "done" the Paris Exhibition
+and meant to have a "look in" at most European<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span>
+countries before sailing from Naples. They took
+the whole ship into their confidence before a quarter
+of an hour had passed; and we shared alike in
+thrilling intelligences conveyed through the medium
+of Baedeker's pages. "The castled crag" resounded
+from one end of the boat to the other;
+and as for Roland and Hildegunde, the tragedy of
+their lives was discussed, and exclaimed over, and
+lamented, until, happily, a bend of the river hid
+Nonnenwerth from sight.</p>
+
+<p>In emphatic contrast to the nervous alertness of
+the Yankee was the spectacle of the middle-class
+German and his ways. He sat by his plain, stout,
+ill-dressed Frau, with his back to the scenery, and
+ate. Occasionally he spoke in monosyllables: more
+often he drank; but the end and object of his Rhine
+trip seemed to be that of consuming as much food
+as lay within the limits of possibility. What
+Nemesis has in store for him and those of his
+manner of life I can only imagine!</p>
+
+<p>At a table near us sat three women and two
+men. Directly we left K&ouml;ln a waiter set forth
+trays in front of them laden with coffee, zwiebacks,
+h&ouml;rnchens, and eggs. This meal over, they sat
+sleepily blinking their eyes, whisking away flies,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span>
+and mopping the moisture from their faces until the
+sound of "Eis! meine Herrschaften!" "Bier!
+meine Herrschaften!" roused them from their
+lethargy. Ices and beer and cherries and peaches
+successively filled up the weary hours until "the
+tocsin of the soul, the dinner bell," carried joy to
+their hearts. I can never forget the rapturous look
+of anticipation and satisfaction which those stolid
+middle-class Teutonic countenances wore when
+"Mittagsessen" was announced. They shook off
+their normal and habitual torpidity, and cheerfully
+elbowed their neighbours, nearly tumbling down the
+companion-ladder in their eagerness to be first in
+the field. They lost no time over the unlovely
+detail of tucking a corner of their napkins down
+their necks, and smoothing its folds over their
+protuberant persons; and they studied the Speise-Karte
+with a conscientiousness that was worthy of
+a better cause.</p>
+
+<p>Dinner began with a tolerably good soup,
+followed by tough roast beef, cut in thick slices and
+garnished with carrots, peas and beans. Next
+came veal, equally uneatable, and then a surprise
+in the shape of Rhine salmon; after which followed
+chicken, salad, and <i>comp&ocirc;te</i>. Finally, a stodgy<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span>
+pudding, sufficiently satisfying, and dessert. Not
+one item of the menu was neglected by the five.
+They calmly and conscientiously and readily ate
+through the Speise-Karte from start to finish.
+Then they returned to deck, only to order coffee
+and ices, and called for a bottle of champagne, three
+of light Rhine wine, and a plateful of peaches;
+out of which they brewed a cup, ladling it from a
+Taunus ware bowl into their long Munich glasses,
+and sipping it lazily all the afternoon between such
+trifles as Kuchen and fresh relays of cherries.
+They ate and drank from K&ouml;ln to Bingen with rare
+intervals of dozing, and I never once saw any of the
+party take the faintest interest in the Rhine, so far
+as its banks were concerned.</p>
+
+<p>It was a relief to turn from such grossness to its
+antithesis in the shape of two American ladies who
+sat near us. They were well-preserved, well-bred
+spinsters under forty. Everything about them was
+dainty and exquisitely neat. I likened them in my
+mind to bowls of dried rose-leaves&mdash;the freshness
+gone, the perfume left. Such was their intense and
+intelligent interest in travel that, rather than lose a
+timber-framed village or historic castle, a vineyard
+or watch-tower, they abstained from lunch and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span>
+picnicked lightly on deck off tea and eggs and
+h&ouml;rnchen. They knew the legends of the Rhine as
+you and I know (or ought to know) our Prayer-Books.
+They had studied the history of Germany,
+and mastered the intricacies alike of the Thirty
+Years' War and of the Hohenzollern pedigree; and
+they talked well, expressing their ideas in good
+Saxon words; at times, perhaps a trifle pedantic,
+but never offensively so.</p>
+
+<p>As the day wore on the temperature became
+almost overpowering. The water reflected a
+blinding glare, and a heat like that of a burning
+fiery furnace was radiated from the engines. I was
+wondering whether a hammock in a cool English
+garden would not have been more desirable, when I
+heard a plaintive, uneducated American voice
+behind me ask a question of its mate which
+exactly embodied my own unuttered sentiments:</p>
+
+<p>"What <i>I</i> want to know, Jake, is: Is this
+pleasure, or ain't it? Did we come here to enjoy
+ourselves, or what?"</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Jake</span>: "Wall, I guess you ain't used to travelling
+around, my dear, and you don't understand it. Oh,
+yes" (with an obvious effort), "this is real fust-class
+pleasure, this is!"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. Jake</span>: "Wall, I'm darned! I'd as lief be
+in our store."</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Jake</span>: "Sakes alive! You <i>do</i> surprise me!
+Think what Keren-Happuch Jones will say when
+you mention casual on your return something that
+happened when you was sailing up the Rhine.
+She'll die of envy, she will, and spite to think
+you've seen more'n her."</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. Jake</span> (cheered somewhat): "Wall, I
+reckon, Jake, there's summat in that. Keren-Happuch
+don't like anyone to do what she don't do."</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Jake</span>: "And then, my dear, think of your noo
+bonnet from Paris! That'll be another pill for
+Keren-Happuch to swallow."</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. Jake</span>: "My! Yes! I don't think much
+of Europe, anyway, but I could never have bought
+that bonnet in Baltimore. But, Jake, do look on
+the map and tell me when we get to Heidelberg."</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Jake</span>: "It ain't any good my lookin', my dear,
+for I wasn't raised to these sort of things, and
+I'm darned if I know where to find it."</p>
+
+<p>A groan from Mrs. Jake, followed by: "Wall, I
+reckon when I find myself again in No. 9, Mount
+Mascal Street, I won't want to go travelling around
+even to cut out Keren-Happuch Jones."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I came to the rescue at this point, and showed
+the good lady where Heidelberg lay. She was a
+hard-featured, plain woman of some thirty-eight
+summers, her hair was dragged back uncompromisingly
+from her forehead, and there were no
+"adulteries of art" about either coiffure or costume.</p>
+
+<p>"You see," she said apologetically, "Jake here
+and me are travelling around, and the only way we
+can get on is to ask for a ticket to a place, and
+never stop travelling till we get there. We speak
+German all right because my parents were Germans,
+and Jake was born in Germany; but he don't know
+much about it because he was only two years old
+when he left it eight-and-thirty years ago. We
+thought we'd like to see the Paris Exposition, but
+my! it ain't to be compared to the Chicago
+Exhibition, and as for Paris, it can't come up to
+Noo York, and these river steamers ain't a patch on
+the Hudson River boats, and I don't think much
+of Europe anyway."</p>
+
+<p>Jake, a good-looking, gentle-mannered man,
+tried to soften the asperity of his wife's strictures
+without success. He evidently adored her.</p>
+
+<p>"The way we travel," resumed Mrs. Jake, "is
+to think of a place we've heard of, and to ask for a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span>
+ticket to it. Now, we'd heard of Paris and
+Cologne, and Heidelberg, and Baden, and Dresden,
+and Berlin, and Hamburg, but we don't know now
+how they come&mdash;see? So we hev' to go cavortin'
+around to find out which to take next. A gentleman
+way back at Cologne"&mdash;she pronounced it
+"Klon"&mdash;"told me Heidelberg came next. I quite
+thought Baden was near Hamburg, and that we
+should take it last; but they tell me it ain't, and
+that, you see, has upset all our calculations. Guess
+you're a Londoner, anyway; thought so by your
+accent!"</p>
+
+<p>When we left the steamer at Bingen, the last I
+heard of Mrs. Jake was a plaintive moan:</p>
+
+<p>"Guess I don't think much of Europe, anyway,
+and I wouldn't come again, not even to cut out
+Keren-Happuch!"</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<h3><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span>OF SOME FELLOW TRAVELLERS AND<br />
+THE CATHEDRAL OF MAINZ.</h3>
+
+
+<p>"<span class="smcap">Ja Wohl!</span> Frau Rittergutsbesitzer. I have
+lived in the Herr Professor's house for five-and-thirty
+years. I have pickled his cabbage and
+preserved his fruit. I have minced with my own
+hand the pork for his sausages before they had
+mincing-machines in Schleswig-Holstein. I have
+seen personally to the smoking of his hams and
+fish. I make his Apfelkuchen and Nusskuchen
+myself, and do not buy them in the shop, like that
+lazy Hausfrau opposite us at No 2, who comes from
+that God-forgotten country England, where all the
+women are so badly brought up. I grant you that
+what I do is no more than the duty of every God-fearing
+German <i>Haush&auml;lterin</i>; none the less, I do
+not mean all my work to go for nothing, and I will
+not be ousted by a hussy! In the time of the
+<i>vielbedauerten</i> mother (Frau Regierungsrat Lenbach)<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span>
+I had no worries about his matrimonial affairs; she
+looked after those. But <i>sieh mal</i>, Frau Riedel,
+now the care of him is on my shoulders. He has
+no more idea of taking care of himself than a baby!
+He is exactly like that learned man&mdash;I think it was
+our great Neander&mdash;who was running out of his
+college one day and ran into a cow; so he pulled
+off his hat and said, '<i>Gn&auml;dige Frau, ich bitte um
+Verzeihung</i>' ('Gracious lady, I beg your pardon'),
+and went on; and the week after he came tearing
+round the same corner, thinking, I suppose, of those
+heathen gods and goddesses whose pictures shame a
+modest woman to look at, and he ran up against a
+lady, so he cried out: '<i>Oh! du dumme Kuh!
+warum kommst du mir immer in den Weg?</i>'
+('Oh, you stupid cow, why will you always get in
+my way?') Yes, my Herr Professor is just like
+that&mdash;quite as stupid, though they call him so wise
+and clever; and what chance has a born innocent
+like he is against a designing spinster of forty-five
+who makes him presents of <i>Weihnachtstollen</i> at
+Christmas, <i>Oster-Eier</i> at Easter, and <i>Geburtstagstorte</i>
+on his birthday? I ask you what chance of
+escape a poor <i>Junggeselle</i> has?</p>
+
+<p>"Told him she wanted to marry him! Not I.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span>
+Why, <i>liebe Frau</i>, I have not lived sixty-five and a
+half years in this world for nothing! If I let him
+suppose she was in love with him, that would be
+the very way to make him like her. So as I laid
+the cloth for the Herr Professor's <i>Abendtisch</i>, I
+remarked casually that Fr&auml;ulein Bettine Meyer was
+not at all a bad sort of woman really, and that she
+had some excellent qualities, if only she did not
+make herself so ridiculous. 'How ridiculous?'
+says he, sitting up. 'What does she do ridiculous,
+I should like to know?' 'Why, wears a false front
+and curls bought at Frau K&ouml;lsch's shop,' says I.
+'Poor thing, she can't make herself look young
+and beautiful, whatever she does, and Frau Rittmeister
+Bernstorf was laughing at her the other
+day, and at the high heels and at the stuffing the
+<i>Schneiderin</i> round the corner puts into her gowns
+to cover the angular bones! She would look much
+more respectable,' said I, 'if she would brush her
+scanty grey locks back, and smooth them with
+pomatum as I do, and wear a black lace <i>M&uuml;tze</i> over
+them, instead of making herself the laughing-stock
+of Schleswig.' And away I walked. And the
+Professor ate no supper that night, and next day he
+left for his <i>Ferienausflug</i>, and never called to say<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span>
+good-bye to Fr&auml;ulein Meyer; and so I put the
+extinguisher on that little candle just as its flame
+was beginning to burn up, and&mdash;why! here we are
+at Mainz."</p>
+
+<p>And this is what I heard, and how I was
+entertained, in the "elektrische Bahn" on my little
+expedition from Wiesbaden to Mainz. I reflected,
+as I saw the Haush&auml;lterin get down heavily with
+all the deliberation of her sixty-five and a half
+years, that feline amenities are much the same in
+Germany as in England; and I felt sorry for poor
+Fr&auml;ulein Meyer, who might have given up her
+small vanities and made pancakes and <i>Apfelkuchen</i>
+for the Professor quite as well in the end as the
+Haush&auml;lterin.</p>
+
+<p>The cathedral of Mainz was, of course, the
+object of our expedition. It dominates the city
+from afar, with its wonderful towers and pinnacles,
+making of Mainz (a commonplace city enough) a
+thing of beauty. From the shores of the Rhine we
+crossed a wide street planted with trees and lined
+on each hand with modern German houses of
+pinkish stone (covered with heavy sculpture and
+breaking out into countless balconies and bay
+windows), and soon found ourselves in the market-place.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span>
+And here, indeed, one felt oneself in the
+Germany of bygone days. Instead of pseudo-classic
+buildings, heavy with meaningless ornamentation,
+we found beautiful old timber-framed houses, with
+deep eaves and wood carvings. On one of these I
+read:</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+Zum Kurf&uuml;rstlichen<br />
+Wappen.<br />
+Erneuert in Jahr<br />
+des Heils<br />
+1899.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>It was evidently a Gasthaus of considerable
+antiquity, and had been carefully restored. Close
+by a Brobdingnagian finger lured the unwary to
+where it pointed&mdash;a low doorway above which was
+inscribed the legend: "<i>Hier essen Sie gut</i>." The
+market-place had been dismantled of its stalls and
+umbrellas all but one, which was being furled as we
+arrived on the scene. A couple of men in blue
+smocks were sweeping up the cabbage leaves, straw
+and refuse, market carts were driving off, and
+smart-looking officers in beautiful uniforms strolled
+across what we English miscall "a square" for
+want of a better word.</p>
+
+<p>But to get a good view of the exterior of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span>
+cathedral was what we wanted, and to this end we
+dived down strange, evil-smelling alleys, and went
+round and round a labyrinth of streets, always
+expecting to see, and never arriving at, the
+cathedral's fa&ccedil;ade. At last we realised that the
+quest was hopeless, since the building is so surrounded
+and deformed by commonplace, ugly houses
+that nothing of it but roof and towers can be seen
+from outside. We entered it at last by a narrow
+lane between poor, ugly houses, an unfit approach
+indeed to this beautiful Romanesque cathedral&mdash;one
+of the four famous Romanesque Gothic cathedrals
+of Germany. The general effect of the interior is
+that of strength, solidity, and simplicity. The grand
+structural lines are noble and pure. There is an
+entire absence of the florid in architecture, and no
+attempt at all at decoration as one understands it in
+Spanish cathedrals. The tone of the walls and floor
+is a pinkish brown, and the whole church has a
+warm glowing effect from its richly-coloured stone.
+I could have spared most, if not all, of the overladen
+rococo monuments to the Electors of Mainz, with
+their monstrous records of impossible perfections;
+but my companion (a German lady) thought them
+beautiful. The whole church struck one as rather<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span>
+ill-kept; perhaps the red stone floor had something
+to do with it. Dust and mud do not adhere somehow
+to an opus Alexandrinum pavement. A guide
+appeared to offer his services, almost obsequiously
+polite in his attentions to the English lady. Whatever
+their opinions may be as to our failings and
+vices, our shortcomings and our iniquities, most
+Germans are civil to us nowadays.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> They hate us
+cordially, envy us sincerely, attack us in the press and
+out of it, and are insanely jealous of the people they
+affect to despise. But while the superficial <i>entente</i>
+lasts, they smile and bow and are outwardly polite.
+I asked an English lady, the widow of a German
+official, if her husband, having married an English
+wife, did not cherish kindlier sentiments towards us
+than the majority of his countrymen. "He died
+during the Boer war," she said, "and he died in the
+sure and certain hope that England was done for."</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> This was written before the war.</p></div>
+
+<p>Apart from the Domkirche, there is little to see in
+Mainz, although the city is of great antiquity, having
+been founded by Drusus. It is a strongly fortified
+place, and stood once upon a time a memorable
+siege. There are pleasant walks by the Rhine,
+beautiful Anlagen, a picturesque old tower, and the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span>site of Gutenberg's house to see. The Grand Ducal
+Palace once sheltered Napoleon the First, as did
+many another palace in Germany. The present
+Grand Duke prefers his palace in Darmstadt, the
+Neue Palais (built by Queen Victoria for Princess
+Alice), and comes little to the ancient city of bygone
+Electors.</p>
+
+<p>We have fallen into German ways&mdash;alarming
+thought!&mdash;and become unquestionably alive to the
+virtues of caf&eacute;s and Restaurations as a wind-up to a
+day's expedition. At Mainz we discovered a caf&eacute;
+close to the theatre, and sipped coffee and ate
+<i>Streuselkuchen</i> out of doors in the shadow of the
+cathedral and Gutenberg's statue. A pleasant-faced
+Gretchen brought us miniature Mont Blancs of
+whipped cream on small glass plates, and loitered
+near us ostensibly rearranging a table, but in reality
+studying our gowns and hats. Before we paid our
+Rechnung, the Haush&auml;lterin and Frau Rittergutsbesitzer
+turned up hot and rather cross, having
+spent their time since we parted in futile attempts
+to match Schleswig-Holstein ribbons with those of
+the sunny Rhineland.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<h3><a name="SCHLANGENBAD" id="SCHLANGENBAD"></a>SCHLANGENBAD.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>GREEN HILLS AND BLUE WATERS.</h4>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Schlangenbad</span>, although a charmingly pretty spot,
+is not one to fascinate a painter. The landscape is
+unvaryingly green, and that green is too monotonous
+in tone for effect in a picture. Moreover, it
+lies shut in by hills, and there is no distant horizon
+to give the value of foreground and middle distance.
+But less critical eyes find much to admire in
+Schlangenbad. The great wide road leading to it
+from Eltville testifies to its former popularity in the
+days of family coaches and postilions. Nowadays
+an ugly steam tram transports the traveller from
+the Rhine to the "Serpent's Bath," and nearly
+poisons and chokes him <i>en route</i> with the horrible
+smoke it emits. Half of the tram is open to the
+air at the sides, like a char-a-banc; and when we
+travelled by it a little party of Germans were
+enjoying an <i>Ausflug</i>, each man with one eye<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span>
+cocked on the scenery and the other on the
+look-out for a <i>Bier-garten</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Next to me sat a student, whose face was so
+slashed and gashed that it reminded one of
+"Amtshauptmann Weber" (in Reuter's delightful
+book), whose "face looked as if he had sat down
+upon it on a cane-bottomed chair." Opposite the
+student was a middle-aged fat "Assessor," with a
+small girl in long frilled drawers and short petticoats;
+and on the other side of the gangway were
+two homely-looking women in lead-coloured garments.
+As we passed through Altdorf the child
+drew her father's attention to a fat goose which
+waddled away as the tram approached. "<i>Sieh
+mal, Vater</i>," said she, "<i>die sch&ouml;ne Gans</i>." ("Look,
+father, at the beautiful goose.") "O! <i>die Gans</i>,"
+said her practical and prosaic parent, "<i>wird viel
+sch&ouml;ner sein, mein Kind, wenn sie gebraten ist</i>."
+("The goose will be much more beautiful, my child,
+when it is roast.") "And has an accompaniment of
+sage-stuffing and apple-sauce," I added, to which
+he in all serious conviction bowed an assent.</p>
+
+<p>The valley up which we journeyed was green
+and pleasant. There were no walls or fences on
+either side of the road, but trees shaded the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span>
+wayfarer, and his outlook on gardens, bean-poles,
+orchards, and vines was agreeable enough. If he
+chose to look further afield a silvery streak called
+the Rhine was visible, and beyond that again low
+blue hills stretched away until their cobalt and that
+of the sky got mixed on the palette of Nature.
+From this valley comes the famous Rauen-thaler
+wine. Most of the hills, indeed, are covered with
+vines, and the village houses showed grapes
+hanging from their eaves and peeping in at their
+windows.</p>
+
+<p>At Neudorf we paused to pick up a <i>Barmherzige
+Schwester</i>; and as our halt was exactly in front
+of the village shop I amused myself by making a
+mental inventory of its contents. The window&mdash;an
+ordinary one&mdash;had wooden shelves nailed across
+it; and on these were displayed soap, slates and
+slate-pencils, bottles of peppermint lozenges, hearthstone,
+flannel, lemon-drops, gingham, sausages, and
+gingerbread.</p>
+
+<p>The houses of the village were covered with
+rough stucco, and white or yellow-wash was
+swished liberally over them. Under their deep
+eaves an occasional small image of <i>Die Mutter
+Gottes</i> was to be seen. Many were covered with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span>
+grape-vines, and all had clean muslin blinds at their
+windows, and often pots of geraniums and fuchsias
+outside. Sunflowers, dahlias, and roses grew in
+the little patches of garden by the road; and all
+was charming and primitive, save for the discordant
+electric fittings which hung midway on the
+telegraph-posts, and the anomaly of a brand new
+brick <i>Brod-fabrik</i> just outside the village.</p>
+
+<p>All the way up the "cane-bottomed chair" and
+the "Assessor" smoked stolidly, while their women-folk
+cackled like human geese. "<i>Wie sch&ouml;n!</i>"
+"<i>Colossal!</i>" "<i>Entz&uuml;ckend!</i>" "<i>Reizend!</i>" Nothing
+but incessant and weary adjectives! I turned
+with relief to the "Barmherzige Schwester," a prim
+and silent little figure in neat blue cotton gown,
+black apron, and white kerchief pinned over her
+shining hair.</p>
+
+<p>The tram stopped at last before the village
+church, and we all got out. To our left, as we
+faced the Kurhaus, straggled a long line of houses
+with deep verandahs and balconies, to our right
+shady walks and bath-houses and beautiful woods.
+Here and there amid the hotels and villas was a
+shop, and we knew that Schlangenbad marched
+with the times when we saw the word "<i>Schamponieren</i>"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span>
+and a bunch of Empire curls exhibited as
+a modern trophy. We stopped at a shop and
+examined its wares, which, indeed, hung chiefly on
+the shutters. There were Swiss embroidered
+gowns and blouses to be bought, edelweiss
+penwipers, wooden paper-cutters, and clocks with
+chamois climbing wooden rocks. Nothing apparently
+in that shop had been "made in Germany."
+When we reached the verandah of the "Nassauer
+Hof" we were gladdened by bows from the
+"Assessor" and the student, who with the
+"cackling geese" were seated at a long table
+consuming piles of Apfelkuchen, Streuselkuchen,
+and Napfkuchen to an accompaniment of steaming
+coffee.</p>
+
+<p>As for dull, useful information Schlangenbad, of
+course, was known to the Romans, and they bathed
+in its waters. The Middle Ages seem to have
+neglected Spas generally, and to have been dead to
+the joys of a bath. At all events, nothing more
+was heard about Schlangenbad or its springs until
+in 1687 a wooden hut was put over what was
+known as the "R&ouml;mer Bad." Next the Landgraf
+of Hesse awoke to the virtues of its waters, and
+caused the "Oberes Kurhaus" to be built. Five<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span>
+years later, the "Nassauer Hof" was erected, and
+a time of prosperity and fashion set in for Schlangenbad.
+The waters have always had a great
+reputation for beautifying the skin and healing
+wounds and sores. It is on record that Frederick
+the First of Sweden ordered four thousand bottles
+of Schlangenbad water a year as <i>eau de toilette</i>, and
+another and still vainer sovereign three hundred a
+week. After this who shall dare say that women
+have the monopoly of vanity?</p>
+
+<p>Besides embellishing, the Schlangenbad waters
+are good in nervous disorders, rheumatism, and
+asthma. They are of an exquisite light-blue colour,
+and when bathing in them one's limbs have the
+appearance of marble. That the Schlangenbad
+people think highly of their "cure" is obvious. I
+bought a map of the district (manufactured in the
+place) and found the word Schlangenbad printed in
+huge letters, while the neighbouring town of Wiesbaden
+was in such small ones that it looked as if
+scarcely worth mentioning at all.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span></p>
+<h3><a name="LIEBENSTEIN" id="LIEBENSTEIN"></a>LIEBENSTEIN.</h3>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Here</span> in the Thuringian Forest, aloof from the stir
+and roar of life, lies a Kur-Ort little known to the
+English world. Its waters are analogous to those
+of Schwalbach, its air is as pure, its scenery more
+beautiful, and its prices half those of the Taunus
+Wald. Its people still retain their primitive charm,
+unspoilt as yet by the potentialities of South African
+or American money-bags. Within easy reach of
+such interesting towns as Eisenach, Weimar, Erfurt,
+Gotha, and Coburg, it offers many alluring baits to
+the sightseer; yet to the coming and going of
+tourists is it altogether unaccustomed. Liebenstein
+lies in a green and beautiful valley, and the hills
+which surround it are covered for the most part
+with great black forests. Patches of wheat and rye
+vibrate in the winds which sweep up the valleys,
+and the fields of potatoes alternate on the low
+grounds with pasturage and orchards. Under the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span>
+great limestone rocks, which near Liebenstein rise
+sheer out of the plain, nestle charming villages, and
+long avenues of poplars conduct you where you
+would go along the high roads. By the roadside a
+wealth of flowers is yours for the picking&mdash;wild
+thyme and asparagus and mallow, periwinkles, and
+the picturesque dock and crowfoot. The woods are
+starred with flowers, and the perfume of the pines
+is a revelation.</p>
+
+<p>The humbler houses of Liebenstein (for the
+greater part timber-framed and red-tiled) straggle
+up the immediate hills which surround it. Those
+of more pretention and inevitable ugliness range
+themselves decently and in order along two parallel
+roads. Aloof as this village is from "the madding
+crowd's ignoble strife," it has yet been touched to
+its undoing by the ruthless finger of conventionality.
+The inevitable Kur-Haus and bandstand and
+Anlagen are here; worst of all, a Trink-Halle!
+The Trink-Halle stands a mute and awful warning
+to the vaulting ambition which overleaps itself,
+since a classic temple in the heart of Liebenstein is
+surely as much out of place as a tiara would be on
+the head of the peasant woman who hands you your
+daily portion of Stahlwasser. Even the spring it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span>
+originally sheltered has revolted against its sham
+marble pillars and grotesque entablature, and betaken
+itself elsewhere! Nowadays the paint and
+plaster are peeling off the columns, and its door is
+padlocked. Happily&mdash;although a melancholy warning
+to the educated&mdash;it remains a source of pride to
+the peasant, who loves his shabby temple as the
+Romans do the marble glories of their Vesta.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately behind the temple are the springs
+of Georg and Kasimir, at which stand two charming
+maidens ready to fill your glasses. No conventional
+and hideous hat or bonnet disfigures the neat
+outline of their heads. No travesty of Berlin or
+Paris fashion burlesques their sturdy figures.
+Theirs the traditional costume of the Thuringian
+female peasant&mdash;a dark skirt, and white, short-sleeved
+chemisette, a blue apron and the daintiest
+of white silk kerchiefs, fringed sparsely and
+brocaded abundantly with red roses. Albeit their
+arms are red and coarse with the combined effect of
+iron-water, hot sun, and exposure to the air, their
+faces make ample amends in their innocent, good-tempered
+comeliness. They greet you with a
+kindly "Guten Tag" or "Guten Abend," and, in
+the case of a lady, seldom omit the pretty "Gn&auml;dige<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span>
+Frau," for which our "Ma'am" is but a poor correlative.</p>
+
+<p>Wandering through the streets of Liebenstein,
+one is struck by the intensely picturesque sights of
+its older and original part. The little houses are
+timber-framed and whitewashed, with deep projecting
+eaves and often many gables. Their
+windows are made gay outside by boxes filled with
+geraniums, nasturtiums, and fuchsias. Beneath the
+windows lie small gardens, in which bloom roses
+and single dahlias, while scarlet runners send their
+tendrils climbing over the palings which separate
+road and garden. Many of the little houses have
+projecting signs, on which one reads such legends as
+"<i>Tabak, Cigarren, Cigaretten</i>;" "Adolf Schmidt,
+<i>Herren kleidermacher</i>;" "<i>Weinhandlung Naturreinheit
+garantirt</i>;" or the very indispensable
+"<i>B&auml;ckerei</i>." One house bears a tablet announcing
+to an admiring world that "<i>Herzoglich. Sachsen-Meiningen
+Stadtesbeamter</i>" lives within. Cocks
+and hens, dogs and children, make common playground
+of these narrow streets, and one sees in them
+pretty well every form of animal life represented,
+except horses. Now a long cart, drawn by oxen
+and well filled, toils up the hill, and not long after<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span>
+follows one drawn by a big dog. At a pump two
+tiny girls are busily employed filling stone jars,
+which by the beauty and purity of their outlines
+might have been Etruscan. Mothers beat mats at
+their cottage doors, and shrilly scream at their
+children to get out of the way of the passing carts;
+and the world in this remote village goes on pretty
+much as it does elsewhere.</p>
+
+<p>But the fashionable life of Liebenstein does not
+concern itself with such mean sights and bucolic
+sounds as oxen-carts and crowing of cocks. It
+takes its pleasure up and down the long avenues of
+beech trees which lie between the Kur-Haus and
+the H&ocirc;tel Bellevue. It rallies round the bandstand,
+and makes great show of studying the programmes
+of the daily concert. It chatters glibly
+over the previous evening's illuminations, and
+describes them as "<i>colossal!</i>" and "<i>wundersch&ouml;n</i>."
+Beauty is not in vogue at Liebenstein, judging by
+the middle-class Kur guests who haunt the shade of
+the beech trees. Indeed, if anywhere in the world
+an Englishman might be forgiven for thanking God
+that he is not as other men are, it would be here
+among the "<i>Ober-Lieutenants</i>" and "Herr Professors"
+and their mates. Figures, both male and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span>
+female, seem to be of the switchback order&mdash;faces
+rudimentary in their modelling, and uncompromising
+in their plainness, dressing of the ugliest. Yet, <i>Gott
+sei Dank!</i> Hans thinks his Gretchen perfection,
+and it would never enter into innocent Gretchen's
+head, as it does mine, to bestow upon Hans the
+carping criticism of Portia upon Monsieur Le Bon:
+"God made him, and therefore let him pass for a
+man."</p>
+
+
+
+<hr /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span></p>
+<h3><a name="TREVES" id="TREVES"></a>TR&Egrave;VES</h3>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> dominant glory of the Moselle region is
+Tr&egrave;ves. No town or city near has the smallest
+affinity with its peculiar character, and all seem
+modern and prosaic compared with its well-preserved
+tale of antiquity. "Nowhere north of the Alps," we
+are told in weary iteration, "exist such magnificent
+Roman remains." It is generally on the obvious
+that the unimaginative English parson takes upon
+himself to comment. We listen submissively to
+much school-book lore as to "Claudius" and the
+"fourth century" and the "residence of Roman
+Emperors," but when it rains Bishops and Archbishops
+and Electors we fly before them. For, after
+all, what signifies the paltry learning of a dry-as-dust
+dominie compared with the vivid tales these grand
+old ruins tell if suffered to speak for themselves?
+In Tr&egrave;ves people need to absorb silently, and then
+assimilate undisturbed by weary chatter. One looks<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span>
+at the tender turquoise sky, flecked with luminous
+clouds; at the fine horizontal distance, with its sense
+of breadth and breathing-space; at the low hills
+covered with vines; at the cornfields, and orchards,
+and river&mdash;and we wonder what the old Romans
+thought of it all, and reflect on the strangeness of
+life that a people so remote from our times should
+have lived and loved and died, as we live and love
+and die to-day. Whether Tr&egrave;ves lie on the right or
+left bank of the Moselle is immaterial except to the
+tiresomely precise or to those who pin their faith to
+guide-books and such shallow teachers. There is a
+more valuable lesson to be learnt of the place than
+that of its exact situation; and no Baedeker or
+Murray can help you to appreciate Tr&egrave;ves as quiet
+communings with your own intelligence will. If it so
+happens that you have none to commune with, then
+God help you&mdash;and yours!</p>
+
+<p>In Tr&egrave;ves you have not far to go in search of
+the Romans. Their <i>magnum opus</i> confronts you
+boldly at the very threshold of the town. Solid
+and massive and symmetrical, it stands a pregnant
+lesson to the jerry-builders of to-day. There is little
+affinity indeed between the building methods of the
+ancient Romans and those of their trade whose sorry,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span>
+pitiable record exists in the Quartiere Nuovo of
+Rome. About the Porta Nigra is no trace of stucco
+or rubble. The huge blocks of which it is built
+stand one upon the other clean-hewn and square.
+No signs of mortar are left, but we see marks of iron
+or brass clamps. Its colour is a warm, deep red,
+softened here and there by streaks of green.</p>
+
+<p>The Porta Nigra has passed through strange
+phases since first it started in life as a city gate.
+Obviously built for purposes of fortification, and
+equipped with towers of defence, its second phase
+was an ecclesiastical one, and the "spears"
+were indeed turned into "pruning-hooks" when the
+bellicose propugnaculum found itself transformed
+into a church.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i8">"Last scene of all,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">That ends this strange, eventful history."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The gate was in 1876 finally cleared of priests and
+altars, and allowed to revert to its original form.</p>
+
+<p>Not far from the Porta Nigra stands the Cathedral,
+one of the oldest in Germany, arch&aelig;ologically
+interesting, inasmuch as it owes its inception to the
+Romans. The Basilica, built by Valentinian as a
+court of law, is clearly traceable in the present cathedral,
+and one reads a strange tale of Romans and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span>
+Franks in the sandstone and limestone and brick of
+its walls. Here is treasured the famous Heilige
+Rock, or holy coat worn by our Saviour when a boy.
+At rare intervals this garment is exhibited to the
+faithful, who come from all countries to gaze reverently
+upon it. Who that has seen can forget the
+last exposition in 1891? Never before or since has
+there been anything more pathetic than the sight of
+the long rows of tired, haggard, perspiring, praying
+pilgrims, who stood patiently for hours in the
+broiling August sun, moving only when permitted,
+and then at a snail's pace, towards their Mecca.
+Plebeian though the majority of faces were, their
+devotional, solemn, rapt expressions for the time
+being ennobled and beautified them.</p>
+
+<p>Tr&egrave;ves during that time, however, was by no
+means the reposeful, dignified city it is to-day. Its
+buildings were defaced with flags and banners, its
+streets blocked with pilgrims, and the road leading
+from the station to the town was lined with booths,
+whose owners disposed quickly of such delicacies
+as Napfkuchen, Streusel-Kuchen, and Apfelwein.
+Piety and profit went everywhere hand-in-hand, and
+a roaring trade was done in rosaries and b&eacute;nitiers,
+the last made of the blue pottery of the country, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span>
+stamped with a representation of Leo XIII. against
+a background of Domkirche.</p>
+
+<p>But to be thoroughly in harmony with Tr&egrave;ves
+one must be Pagan and Roman rather than Christian
+and German. Indeed, one feels in sympathy with
+the Isle of Wight farmer who after he had found a
+Roman villa on his farm gave up the bucolic and inglorious
+occupation of growing turnips and potatoes,
+and could talk of nothing meaner than hypocausts
+and thermae. So we, like the farmer, slight the
+really beautiful Early Gothic "Liebfrauenkirche"
+and roam and muse for hours about the ruins of the
+Amphitheatre, the Roman Baths, the Roman Palace
+and the Basilica.</p>
+
+<p class="printer">LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED,<br />
+DUKE STREET, STAMFORD STREET, S.E., AND GREAT WINDMILL STREET, W.</p>
+
+<div class="note">
+<h4>Transcriber's Notes</h4>
+
+<p style="text-indent: 0em; line-height: 150%">page <a href="#Page_23">23</a>&mdash;inserted a missing closing quote after 'Dank!'<br />
+page <a href="#Page_36">36</a>&mdash;inserted a missing period after 'Burns'<br />
+page <a href="#Page_61">61</a>&mdash;inserted a missing closing quote after 'France'<br />
+page <a href="#Page_82">82</a>&mdash;typo fixed: changed a comma into a period after 'pavement'<br />
+page <a href="#Page_83">83</a>&mdash;typo fixed: changed a comma into a period after 'Electors'<br />
+page <a href="#Page_93">93</a>&mdash;spelling normalized: changed the position of semi-colon and a quote after 'Cigaretten'</p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A War-time Journal, Germany 1914 and German
+Travel Notes, by Harriet Julia Jephson
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A War-time Journal, Germany 1914 and German Travel Notes
+
+Author: Harriet Julia Jephson
+
+Release Date: November 18, 2007 [EBook #23533]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A WAR-TIME JOURNAL, GERMANY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Irma Spehar and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+                          A WAR-TIME JOURNAL
+
+                             GERMANY 1914
+                                  AND
+                          GERMAN TRAVEL NOTES
+
+
+                [Illustration: ENGLISCHE KRIEGSFUeHRUNG
+                  (_How the Englishman makes war._)]
+
+
+
+
+                                   A
+                           WAR-TIME JOURNAL
+                             GERMANY 1914
+                                  AND
+                          GERMAN TRAVEL NOTES
+
+                                  BY
+
+                             LADY JEPHSON
+
+                 AUTHOR OF 'A CANADIAN SCRAP-BOOK' AND
+                       'LETTERS TO A DEBUTANTE'
+
+                                LONDON
+                      ELKIN MATHEWS, CORK STREET
+                                M CM XV
+
+
+
+
+                                PREFACE
+
+
+Prefaces are rarely read, yet I have the hardihood to venture on this
+one because there are certain things in connection with my journal
+which it is necessary to explain. On returning from Germany, although
+urged by my friends to publish the story of my experiences, I refused,
+fearing to do anything which in the smallest degree might prejudice
+the case of those still in captivity. There came a day, nevertheless,
+when I read that all English people had left "Altheim." The papers
+announced that men under forty-five had been interned at Ruhleben, and
+those over that age had been sent to Giessen. There seemed, therefore,
+no possible object in further withholding the journal, since, after
+all, there was nothing in it which could by any possibility affect the
+fate of others less fortunate than I. Accordingly I sent my manuscript
+to the _Evening Standard_, which accepted it, and published the first
+couple of pages. Then, in deference to the wishes of people whose
+relations were still at "Altheim" (having been sent back from
+Giessen), I stopped my diary. However, in view of the daily
+revelations in the Press as regards prisoners in Germany, I have come,
+after seven months, to the conclusion that nothing I can say will in
+any degree make the condition of prisoners there worse. Meanwhile it
+is of supreme interest to compare the opinions and conduct of Germans
+at the beginning of the war with what they express and observe now. My
+journal is simply a record made each day of my detention, and although
+it has no pretension to being literature, it is at least a truthful
+picture of the state of things as we in Altheim saw them at the
+beginning of the war. For obvious reasons the place of detention has
+been given a fictitious name.
+
+                                           HARRIET J. JEPHSON.
+
+
+
+
+                               CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                            PAGE
+
+A WAR-TIME JOURNAL                                           11
+
+GERMAN TRAVEL NOTES:
+
+  "TAKIN' NOTES"                                             67
+
+  OF SOME FELLOW TRAVELLERS AND THE CATHEDRAL OF MAINZ       76
+
+  SCHLANGENBAD                                               84
+
+  LIEBENSTEIN                                                90
+
+  TREVES                                                     96
+
+
+
+
+                         LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+                                                    PAGE
+
+ENGLISCHE KRIEGSFUeHRUNG                        _Frontispiece_
+  (_How the Englishman makes war._)
+
+ENGLAND FINDET HILFSTRUPPEN
+  (_England finds troops to help her._)
+
+  I. IN KANADA                                        17
+    (_Behold the German idea of a Canadian._)
+
+  II. IN POLYNESIEN                                   33
+    (_The German idea of an Australian._)
+
+  III. NUR IN LONDON NICHT                            49
+    _But not in London!_
+
+_These illustrations are reproduced from German newspapers._
+
+
+
+
+                          A WAR-TIME JOURNAL:
+                             GERMANY, 1914
+
+
+VILLA BUCHHOLZ, ALTHEIM, _August 1st._--Last night a herald went round
+the town and roused everyone, blowing his trumpet and crying, "Kommen
+Sie heraus! Kommen Sie alle fort!" This was a call to the reservists,
+all of whom are leaving Altheim. To-day the crowd cheered madly, sang
+"Heil Dir im Sieger Kranz," and "Deutschland ueber alles," showing the
+utmost enthusiasm. To my horror, I find that the banks here refuse
+foreign cheques, and will have nothing to do with letters of credit. I
+have very little ready money with me, and the situation is not a
+pleasant one!
+
+_August 2nd._--Germany has declared war against Russia! All men old
+enough to serve are leaving to join the army. Proclamations are
+posted up in the Park Strasse, and crowds are standing in tense
+anxiety in groups, discussing matters with grave faces. We don't know
+how to get away, since all trains are to be used only for the troops
+while "mobilmachung" is going on. People have got as far as the
+frontier and been turned back there, and some who left Altheim
+yesterday are still at Frankfort. I tried to buy an English paper in
+the town, and was told that none were to be had until England had made
+up her mind what she was going to do! We think of motor-cars to the
+frontier, or the Rhine boat.
+
+_August 3rd._--Alas! all steamers on the Rhine are stopped and
+motor-cars are impossible, because an order has come out that
+petroleum is to be reserved for the Government. I made another attempt
+to cash a cheque to-day, and again the bank refused. A Russian who
+stood beside me was desperate. He spoke execrable French, and cried
+excitedly: "Comment donc! je ne puis pas quitter le pays et j'ai une
+famille et trois femmes!" Poor Bluebeard! his "trois femmes" (wife and
+daughters) looked terrified and miserable. Our position is incredible
+and most serious. Still, one cannot but admire the glorious spirit of
+sacrifice and patriotism which animates all classes of the German
+people. Just what it was in the war of 1813, when women even cut off
+their hair and sold it to help their country.
+
+_August 4th._--Troops are marching through the streets and leaving for
+the Front all day long. The ladies of Altheim go to the station as the
+trains pass through, and give the soldiers coffee, chocolate, cigars,
+and zwiebacks. They get much gratitude, and the men say (poor deluded
+mortals): "Wir kriegen fuer Sie" (We fight for you). I saw poor Frau
+G---- (my doctor's wife) to-day. She was quite calm, but looked
+miserable. Her eldest son, Dr. T----, left for the front this morning.
+I sympathised, and she said, choking back a sob: "Man gibt das beste
+fuer das Vaterland" (one gives one's best for the Fatherland). No
+letters come, nor papers; and we are only allowed to send postcards
+written in German.
+
+_August 5th._--Our baker has gone to the war, and Dr. G---- 's butler;
+the schools have shut up, so many masters having been called upon to
+fight. Even learned professors turn soldiers in this country, and
+most of the weedy cabhorses here have left Altheim to serve their
+"Fatherland." My Bade-Frau's husband has gone to the front, and so has
+our Apotheke; there are no porters left at the station, and a jeweller
+is doing duty as station-master! The Red Cross Society meet daily, and
+make preparations for the care of wounded men. Hospitals, private
+houses, and doctors' houses are getting ready, and all motors have
+been put at the State's disposal. Insane hatred against Russia exists,
+and the Russians here are not enjoying themselves! My position is most
+serious: no money, and no return ticket!
+
+_August 6th._--I went out early in quest of news, and looked in at
+K---- and L----'s. A young clerk, pale with excitement and anger, in
+reply to my question: "Gibt es etwas neues?" literally hissed at me:
+"England hat Krieg erklaert" (England has declared war). It was an
+awful moment, although one was prepared for it in a measure, feeling
+sure that England would be faithful to her bond.
+
+Next came the Press announcements, "Das unglaubliche ist Tatsache
+geworden" (The unbelievable is become an accomplished fact). "England,
+who poses as the guardian of morality and all the virtues, sides with
+Russia and assassins!" Abuse of Sir Edward Grey, of our Government,
+and of all things English, follows. When vituperation fails, the
+"Frankfurter Zeitung" reminds its readers that, after all, such
+conduct is only what may be expected from "Die historische Perfide
+Albions." That it is a blow none the less is shown by more than one
+newspaper beginning "Das Schlimmste ist geschehen." (The worst has
+happened.) Miss M----, Miss H----, and I went to the "Prince of
+Wales's Hotel" to see Mr. S----, who had made out a list of the
+English in Altheim, and tried to telephone to our Consul in Frankfort
+to ask what he was going to do for our rescue. The telephone people
+refused to send the message because we were English! Mr. S---- and
+other men here are doing all they can to secure a train when the
+mobilisation is over. He advised us to pack up and be ready to start,
+also not to show ourselves out of doors much, as there is the greatest
+fury and indignation at present against the English, and to be careful
+what we said and did. We are all terribly anxious, and it is rather
+trying for me, as I am the only woman in the place quite alone.
+
+_August 7th._--Still no help! Innumerable wild rumours are flying
+about. They say that those who left Altheim have all come back, unable
+to get farther than Frankfort. We are beginning to feel hopeless.
+Nothing about England is in the German papers, and, of course, we see
+no others. It is quite terrible being without news. Last night there
+was great scrubbing and scraping of Altheim shop windows, and all the
+notices: "English spoken here" have disappeared.
+
+There is a mania about spies in Frankfort, we hear, and some Americans
+yesterday were very roughly handled because their motor bore a French
+maker's name. The Americans have returned to Altheim, and their motor
+has been taken to fight for the Fatherland! Our situation is dreadful,
+but we are keeping up brave hearts. Every day a fresh "Bekanntmachung"
+(notice) appears; that of to-day was addressed to the children and
+called upon them to gather in the harvest, the workers having gone as
+soldiers and turned their "pruning hooks" into swords. My postcards
+written in German have all come back. One cannot communicate with
+anyone outside Altheim. What a position! God in His mercy help us! It
+seems so strange to see German troops marching to the tune of "God
+Save the King," yet it is Germany's National Anthem too, and these are
+the words they sing to it:--
+
+    "Heil Dir im Sieger Kranz,
+    Herrscher des Vaterlands,
+    Heil Kaiser Dir!" etc.
+
+[Illustration: IN KANADA
+(_Behold the German idea of a Canadian_)]
+
+A "Warnung" has now been affixed to trees in the Avenue forbidding
+Russians, English, French or Belgians to go within 100 metres of the
+station. The Russians are being hardly used, but so far Germans are
+quite nice to us. Mrs. N---- tells me a gruesome tale of a Russian
+lady who left her hotel for Russia smiling, well dressed, and happy.
+At Giessen all Russians were turned out of the train and put into a
+waiting-room, and locked up there without any convenience of food,
+drink, or beds for the night. The following morning they were told to
+come out and soldiers marched them several miles into the country to a
+farm-house. Some of the poor creatures were faint from want of food,
+and others had heart disease, and fell exhausted in the road, the
+soldiers prodding them with their bayonets to make them get up! After
+several hours' detention there, they were brought back to Altheim,
+where the poor lady arrived a pitiable wreck! What an experience! I
+have been packed up for days!
+
+_August 8th._--I went into the Park Strasse this morning to buy a
+"Frankfurter Zeitung." Outside the shop where I bought it some
+American women stood gazing at a map of the war, and one said: "I am
+_disgusted_ with England, just disgusted. So degrading of her to help
+a country like Russia, and side with assassins, just degrading! All we
+Americans despise her now." I thought to myself: "If I go to prison
+for it, I will not allow anyone to call my country 'degraded and
+disgusting.'" So I said, trembling with wrath, "There is nothing
+'degrading' in being honourable, nor despicable in keeping true to
+your word. England promised to protect Belgium's frontier, and she is
+bound to do it."
+
+Several Germans were gathered round the map, and they scowled at me
+until I faced them calmly and said: "Jeder man fuer sein Land" (Every
+man for his country), and they answered quite civilly: "Gewiss!"
+(Certainly). The Americans in Altheim, I found afterwards, were
+chiefly of German extraction, which accounted for the woman's
+behaviour.
+
+Early this morning three men arrived to search my room for weapons. I
+was in bed, but they pushed past the maid Kaethchen, forced their way
+in, pried into every corner, and departed. Emile the housemaid here
+has _four_ brothers at the war. Dreadful rumours are flying about as
+to our destination. One day we hear we are to go to Denmark, another
+to Holland. Sometimes we are told that we shall not be allowed to
+leave Germany until the war is over; again that we shall be sent away
+at a moment's notice; that we shall be left at the frontier, and have
+to walk for six hours, and carry our own luggage, etc.
+
+The German papers are perfectly horrible in their violent abuse of
+England, and we are so miserably anxious, not about ourselves, but
+about our dear, dear country, and how she is faring. Kaethchen said
+this morning, "Die deutschen in Ausland sind sehr schlecht behandelt"
+(Germans abroad are very badly treated). "See how well the foreigners
+are treated _here_," by way of impressing upon me how thankful I ought
+to be for my mercies.
+
+_August 9th._--No papers! No news! No letters! No money! All of us are
+more or less packed up ready to start. We are warned that no heavy
+luggage can go with us, and are limited to two small "hand Gepaeck,"
+which we can carry ourselves. I have presented my best hats to
+Kaethchen, and it consoles me to think how comical she will look under
+them!--but "flying canvas" is the order of the day.
+
+_August 10th._--The "Frankfurter Zeitung" calls England "ehrlos"
+(dishonourable), and the Belgian frontier question "only an excuse,"
+and even kind, good Dr. G---- raged against England. One is sick with
+longing to hear how the war gets on from the English point of view.
+The papers here never allude to England's movements--only to her moral
+delinquencies. I am so poverty-stricken now I wash my own
+pocket-handkerchiefs, guimpes, and blouses!
+
+The American part of our community have quite recovered their spirits
+since money has come for them. The United States is making every
+effort to rescue her people, and get them back in safety to America.
+No one seems to concern themselves about us, and we can't get away
+while mobilising is going on. All Germans show the greatest deference
+to Americans, and call them "our honoured guests." We, of course, are
+the _dis_honoured ones, and in disgrace!
+
+Altheim people so far are passably civil to us, but sometimes one has
+a disagreeable person to deal with, as I had to-day at the Bad Haus.
+The girl who stamps our tickets refused to pass mine until I could
+show her my Kur Karte. I had none, and told her so, and asked her why
+I should pay twenty marks for a card, when I could not get any of the
+privileges to which it entitled me: the band, terrace, reading-room,
+and so on. Her answer was a persistent dogged reiteration of "Sie
+muessen eine Kur Karte haben, sonst koennen Sie nicht baden," and not
+having twenty marks in the world at present I had to come away without
+my bath. Every day there are fresh appeals to the patriotism of the
+people. They are pasted on walls, windows, and even trees.
+
+_August 12th._--Such an amusing thing has happened. Mr. S---- said to
+Dr. ----, "We English have captured your Kronprinzessin Cecilie,"
+without saying that he meant the _ship_, and not the _lady_. As the
+Government keeps all such disagreeable intelligence dark, it was news
+to the doctor, and he stoutly contradicted it, and went round the town
+afterwards telling people: "Just think what liars the English are;
+they say they have captured our Crown Princess!" We learnt of this
+prize-taking from the "Corriere della Sera."
+
+_August 13th._--The newspapers are full of German victories and abuse
+of England. Also they declare that the most terrible atrocities have
+taken place in Belgium, where women have despatched wounded Germans on
+the field and shot doctors. The indignation is tremendous.
+
+_August 14th._--Permission has at last been given for "Fremden"
+(foreigners) to depart, and also the threats and restrictions as to
+the railway station have been removed, but we must submit our
+passports to the police, who send them to Berlin to be stamped by the
+military authorities, and in about a week we shall be free. "Gott sei
+Dank!"
+
+_August 15th._--I went to the Polizei-Amt, a dreary little house, and
+found both yard and staircase crammed with people. After waiting a
+long time in the _queue_ I had to beat a retreat, the neighbourhood of
+Polish Jews being too overpowering! In the afternoon I ventured again
+with the same result. They say Holland is crammed with refugees, and
+the hotels so full that people are sleeping on billiard tables even.
+We are allowed to choose between Switzerland and Holland.
+
+German papers express deepest disappointment that Italy has not been
+"ehrlich" (honourable) to her "Dreibund," and yet (extraordinary
+people) the Germans blame us for being true to ours.
+
+_August 16th._--I sent a telegram off to Ems this morning, of course
+written in German, but the official behind the little window where I
+handed it in refused to send it until I showed him my passport. As I
+have not yet succeeded in getting through the crowds at the police
+station I still had mine. We hear dreadful tales of hardships endured
+by those who have managed to get away from other places. Some went by
+the Rhine steamers, which are now running, but wherever they passed a
+fortress they were made to go below. As the cabins were not enough for
+all, preference was given to other nationalities, and English people
+had to sit up all night on deck, even in pouring rain. The entire
+absence of news is for us quite terrible. One feels so out of the
+world, not knowing what is happening outside our prison doors. The
+"Frankfurter Zeitung" is full of nothing but boasts and untruths. A
+fresh "Bekanntmachung" has been posted up forbidding us to leave the
+town, and ordering us to be indoors by nine o'clock.
+
+_August 17th._--The Landsturm has been called out and leaves to-day
+for the Front. These men are the last to be requisitioned, being
+elderly.[1] After long waiting among Jews, Infidels, and Turks, I at
+last got entrance to the Chief of Police's office, had my passport
+taken, paid one mark fifty, and was told to come back on Thursday,
+when it would be returned from Berlin. The Chief was a gruff,
+disagreeable old man, who, to my amiable "Guten Tag" and "Adieu"
+vouchsafed no reply.
+
+    [Footnote 1: This we were told at the time.]
+
+_August 18th._--A dreadful blow! We English are forbidden to go to
+Holland, and told that our destination is to be Denmark. Imagine
+crossing that mined sea now! For reasons of their own German
+authorities will not allow any of us to go by or near the Rhine.
+
+_August 19th._--The German Press is to me a revelation of bombast,
+self-righteousness, falsehood, and hypocrisy. What shocks one most is
+the familiar and perpetual calling upon God to witness that He alone
+has led the Germans to victory and blessed their cause. I read a poem
+yesterday, which began "Du Gott der Deutschen," as if indeed the Deity
+were the especial property of the German Nation! Massacre, pillage,
+destruction, violation of territory, everything wicked God is supposed
+to bless! What hideously distorted minds, and where is the sane, if
+prosaic Teuton of one's imaginings! I wake often in the morning and
+wonder if all that has happened here has not been a horrible
+nightmare--if it can be possible in the twentieth century that I, a
+woman, am a prisoner, and for no sin that one has committed. I cannot
+order an Einspaenner and drive to the station without a challenge and
+danger. I cannot possibly get away without my passport. If I attempted
+to drive to the Rhine my fate might be that of the poor Russians who
+were shot the other day. In any case I could not leave Germany without
+my passport nor enter Dutch territory without permission from the
+Netherlands Consul at Frankfort. It seems all hopeless and
+heartbreaking.
+
+_August 20th._--Another terrific blow! Fraulein S---- came into my
+room this morning and said: "Kein Englaender, kein Auslaender, kann
+Deutschland verlassen" (no Englishman, no foreigner can leave
+Germany). I rushed off immediately to the Polizei Amt and found it
+only too terribly true. Worse! Mr. W---- and Mr. S----, who tried to
+arrange for a steamer on the Rhine to take us away, have been
+arrested, and are being tried on a trumped-up charge of _forgery_, and
+the Company who were the go-betweens demand 3,000 marks because the
+boat came a certain distance down the river in order to embark us.
+
+(_Later_) The Englishmen have been acquitted of forgery, but we fear
+we shall have to pay the L120. I have one mark left!
+
+There is jubilation all over the town as the Germans have taken
+Belfort. Kaethchen enters triumphantly. "Unter Fuehrung des Kronprinzen
+von Bayern haben Truppen gestern in Schlachten zwischen Metz und den
+Vogesen noch einen Sieg erkaempft," and she goes on with the weary old
+story of "viele tausend Gefangene" (many thousand prisoners).
+
+_August 21st._--I found that charming old American friends of mine,
+the W----s, were here, and I went to see them at the Grand Hotel. They
+have been to a Nach Kur in Thuringia, and have had most alarming and
+unpleasant adventures coming back. However, being American their pains
+and penalties are nearly over. A special train is to take them and
+their compatriots to the Hague on Wednesday next. They go to the
+flesh-pots of Egypt, and we are left to eat manna in the wilderness!
+They can drive in the country, while we poor Britishers may not go
+outside the town, and oh! how sick we are of the avenues and streets
+of the red-roofed Bath Houses and shop windows whose contents we know
+by heart. Mr. W---- told me a good tale of the _chef_ of a Hotel here,
+who was obliged to obey his country's call and join the French forces.
+When he found German bullets whizzing about him at Muelhausen, he said
+to himself (so the story goes), "What is my duty? Is it best for me to
+let these cursed Germans make an end of me, or live to cook another
+day for my country?" He decided that living was his game, threw his
+rifle away, lay flat on his face, and let the bullets whistle over
+him. He was taken prisoner to his great relief, and now lies in
+Frankfort prison where his German brother chef has visited him! The
+French of course are a brave nation, but I daresay the poor cook was
+more at home with his pots and pans than with bayonets and rifles!
+
+No papers! no letters! no news! no chance of escape! Two men were put
+in prison yesterday for laughing at Germany. Two Russians were stopped
+in a motor car, and when arms were found upon them they were put up
+against a wall and shot.
+
+_August 22nd._--Altheim has gone mad with joy over the victory near
+Metz. Church bells chime and German children sing "Deutschland ueber
+Alles" _ad nauseam_; and the Kur Haus and all private dwellings are
+draped with bunting. Red Cross people are busy preparing for the
+wounded--sewing classes are held every day in Bad Haus 8, and the
+doctors are full of work. Mr. S----, a young Englishman, formerly in
+the army, has been arrested, and also the hall-porter of the "Grand,"
+and two English valets.
+
+_August 24th._--A terrible day! First of all Kaethchen announced with
+complacency and obvious triumph, that there had been a great victory
+"ganz herrlich!" and that an English Cavalry Brigade had been cut to
+pieces at Luneville, and that those who were not killed had "run
+away"! Of course I did not believe this, but it made one terribly
+anxious. Then in came Miss H---- saying that two men of our little
+colony had been arrested and taken to the police-station, whence after
+examination they were to be sent to Frankfurt. At the Polizei Amt the
+Officials exhibited the results of their _Kultur_ by being rude and
+rough to the unfortunate people arrested. A Polish woman whose son had
+been made prisoner sobbed and cried, whereupon the grim old inspector
+came into the room and said sternly: "Kein Frauen Jammer hier!"
+ordering her out of the room. I was in the Park Strasse and heard some
+Germans chuckling and saying: "Zwei Englaender sind verhaftet" (two
+Englishmen are arrested), looked round, and saw two of our little
+community, both service men, following each other in Einspaenners, each
+surrounded by soldiers and fixed bayonets. It was anything but a
+pleasing sight to me!
+
+_August 25th._--The clouds are lifting, thank God! Cheering news has
+come that we are to be allowed to leave this delightful country in
+eight days' time; most likely we shall have to travel either by way of
+Switzerland or Denmark. Those sagacious personages in Berlin seem to
+imagine that the secrets of the Rhine fortresses will reveal
+themselves to us as we go by! What a compliment to our powers of
+clairvoyance!
+
+Fraulein G---- has just been in to see me. Usually she is a most
+pleasant, gentle little woman, kind and charming; now she is full of
+scorn and hatred of England. She says the Englishmen were arrested
+because they were heard to say that German papers were "full of lies."
+"So they are," said I, "and you can go now and get me arrested too."
+"Oh, no," said she, "I would not tell on _you_!" In spite of her
+magnanimity I cannot think our interview was a success. We argued
+until I said, "If we are to remain friends, we must not discuss the
+war. I _can_not think England wrong, and as a loyal German you think
+Germany right. Don't let us talk about it any more."
+
+The "Frankfurter Zeitung" declares that no workmen in England will
+fight for their country, only the "mercenaries" who are well paid to
+risk their lives. Oh, this life is hard to bear! Such intense,
+frightful hatred speaks in every look, in every action of our enemies.
+It is consoling to remember that their own Nietzsche says: "One does
+not hate as long as one dis-esteems, and only when one esteems an
+equal or superior."
+
+_August 26th._--A chauffeur at the Bellevue was arrested to-day and
+taken to Frankfort. He is only twenty, a Glasgow lad, and absolutely
+harmless.
+
+I am so sick of "Heil Dir im Sieger Kranz" that as the children pass
+my villa shouting it or "Was ist des Deutschen Vaterland?" I go out on
+my balcony and retaliate by singing "Rule Britannia." Small children
+with flags and paper cocked hats, toy swords and tiny drums march
+through the streets, day after day, singing patriotic songs, whilst
+(poor dears!) their fathers are being slaughtered in thousands. No
+reverses are ever reported in the German papers, nothing but victories
+appear, and Germans are treated like children. If it were not for the
+"Corriere della Sera" we should be tempted to believe the Allies in a
+bad way. The "beehrte gaeste" departed this morning. At the station a
+band played, flags were waved, and every American man and woman was
+presented with a small white book which contained the telegrams which
+passed between the belligerent nations at the beginning of the war.
+Again we hear that Copenhagen is to be our destination.
+
+[Illustration: IN POLYNESIEN
+(The German idea of an Australian)]
+
+_August 27th._--I saw Dr. G---- this morning. He begged me to be most
+careful what I said. Two patients of his (English) Levantines were
+talking on the Terrace, and one said to the other, "We had better
+shave off our moustaches, or we shall be taken for military men." They
+were promptly arrested, having been overheard by a spy. We are now
+ordered to get health certificates, which are to go to Frankfort, and
+be forwarded to the military authorities in Berlin. There is an idea
+that we may go away on Tuesday next. We have found out that our
+passports never went to Berlin at all, but are lying at this moment in
+the drawer of that old demon in the "Polizei-Amt."
+
+_August 28th._--Nothing new. The German papers, as usual, full of
+their victories and their piety, and their patriotism, and their
+"Kultur," and goodness knows what not besides. Both Kaisers praising
+each other and distributing iron crosses _ad lib._, early though it be
+in the day. No mention of English troops or England, except to abuse
+the "Verfluechte" English.
+
+A train of wounded men arrived yesterday, and bandaged and lame
+soldiers are to be seen limping about the town, looking ghastly pale
+and ill. At the Lazarett behind the "Prince of Wales' Hotel" there are
+many sad cases. The Red Cross Society has made every provision for
+their comfort and happiness possible. Sheets have been hemmed, pillow
+cases sewn, bandages got ready. The Germans, however, are chary of
+admitting English women to share their labours, and those who go and
+offer to help meet with a very chilly reception.
+
+_August 29th._--An account has come of the battle of St. Quentin. The
+"Frankfurter Zeitung" calls it "decisive," and says that the German
+army has cut off the English army from its base.
+
+_August 30th._--Joy at last! Even the "Frankfurter Zeitung"
+acknowledges that there has been a fight in the North Sea, and that we
+have sunk German ships, but, of course, it was "overpowering numbers
+and larger ships" that did it, and the Germans covered themselves with
+glory as usual. I came home and hung out my flag, the best I could do,
+a red silk dressing jacket, lined with white, and draped over a blue
+silk parasol, which I tied knob out, to look like a pole.
+
+On our church door to-day was posted a typewritten notice: "We have
+smashed your army on the French Continent,(!) and we will smash _you
+too_ if you dare to ring your bell!"
+
+_August 31st._--I heard a small boy singing to-day:
+
+    "Wo liegt Paris, Paris liegt Hier,
+    Den fingen drauf' Das nehmen Wir."
+
+I pray it may not prove prophetic, but they all talk of occupying
+Paris as a certainty, and the German Emperor has invited a number of
+his Generals to dine with him there on the 12th of September. I hear
+that a doctor went into the Prince of Wales' Hotel to-day, and saw
+stuck up in the hall the words: "Das Seegefecht in der Nordsee" (in
+which of course we were victorious). He tore it down and stamped on
+it. An altruistic German waiter thinking to please the English guests
+had put the first sheet of the "Frankfurter Zeitung" in a prominent
+position to console them for the many defeats we are supposed to have
+had. John Burns' speech at the Albert Hall is reported in full in the
+German newspapers, headed "Eine Rede des ehemaligen Englischen
+Minister, John Burns. England gegen seine wahren interessen" (a speech
+of the former English minister,[2] John Burns. England against her
+true interests). No passports yet! No release! This suspense is
+wearing!
+
+    [Footnote 2: This speech I have since learnt was an absolute
+    invention.]
+
+_September 1st._--The sentimentality of the Germans is amazing! They
+cannot even insert a simple notice of a death on the battlefield
+without this sickly parade, "Heute starb den Heldentod furs Vaterland,
+unser innigste-geliebter einziger Sohn," etc. Always a "hero's death"
+and "for his Fatherland." A fresh "Bekanntmachung" has appeared, we
+prisoners of war are not to leave the town, not to stand in groups
+("rotten" they call it) talking in the streets, to be in our houses at
+9 p.m., etc. Two ex-Frankfort prisoners have been sent for by the
+Chief of the Police accused of indiscreet talking. "I hear," said the
+great man, "you say you were fed on nothing but bread and water in
+prison." "No," said Mr. ----, "I had soup in the middle of the day,
+and coffee and bread at night, and in the morning." "Then why do you
+tell lies!" Such utter childishness, to believe every scrap of unkind
+gossip!
+
+_September 2nd._--We are buoyed up with hope, as they talk of our
+getting away this week! It _will_ be delightful to leave this
+perpetual bell-ringing and flag-waving and Vaterlandslieder behind us!
+
+_September 3rd._--The whole of Altheim went mad last night,
+processions, bands, marchings all night, and such a noise that at last
+a nurse had to come out from the Lazarett near the Park and beg the
+revellers to think of the poor wounded sick, and spare them. No one
+could sleep! The last blow has come, our church is closed!
+
+_September 4th._--Despair! The American Ambassador at Berlin has
+telegraphed that we English are not to leave! The Russians are going,
+but our treatment is retaliatory, because they say England is
+detaining German women, and Russia lets them go. To make all worse
+Fraulein S----, tired of keeping me so long for nothing, has given me
+notice to quit at the moment when for three days I have had no greater
+fortune than 2_d._ in my pocket. Where I am to go, or who will take me
+in without money I can't imagine! The American Ambassador in Berlin
+and Mr. Ives, the American Vice-Consul at Frankfort, are working
+untiringly and most kindly for us. We do not complain of actual harsh
+treatment, although to be turned adrift in the world without money by
+one whose tenant I had been for five years is hardly kind. However,
+war is war undoubtedly. Mr. Ives is from the Southern States, Mr.
+H----, his Chief, from the Northern. The Scotch chauffeur has been
+released after a week in prison. He looks pale and dispirited, "a
+sadder," and no doubt "a wiser man."
+
+_September 5th._--The "Times" of the 5th August has turned up in
+Altheim. It has gone the round of our little community until such a
+worn, creased remnant reached me, that I had much ado to keep it
+together until I could master its contents. One felt a second Rip Van
+Winkle, awaking after a long sleep, our world being so confined here.
+At last I have discovered how to get money from England. One writes to
+the American Embassy in Berlin, and encloses a telegram (with postal
+order for the same) to one's banker in London, instructing him to pay
+the sum of money wanted to the American Embassy in London, to be
+forwarded through their kind offices to the Embassy in Berlin. The
+telegram to be written on a sheet of foolscap paper, with the full
+name and address of the sender, and the name also of the nearest
+American Consul. No letters can be sent through this channel.
+
+_September 6th._--No church now! Even that taken from us! The
+American Vice-Consul has been here, and still thinks that we may get
+away in a fortnight. We are sick with hoping and being disappointed.
+The German Press full of the most virulent abuse of England,
+"treacherous," "hypocritical," "lying," "cowardly," "boastful," there
+is no bad name they don't call her! Russia and France and Belgium get
+no lashings of scorn and fury and hatred such as England does! At last
+the account of Sir Edward Goschen's interviews with Von Jagow and
+Bethmann Hollweg has appeared in the German papers. I had read it all
+in the "Corriere della Sera" long ago. They talk of stopping Italian
+papers in Germany since they are pro-English (in German, "lying").
+
+Most of my English friends here went to the German church to-day. The
+Pfarrer pointed out to his congregation how clearly God had favoured
+their cause, how victory had followed victory, the virtuous, religious
+people triumphing over the wicked, ungodly nations. Then he spoke of
+the day so near when Germany should annihilate the "Macht von
+England," and teach her when crushed and humbled "die Wahrheit,"
+Religion and Morality! Humph!
+
+_September 7th._--Wonder of wonders! no bell-ringing to-day, nor
+processions of singing youngsters, so we hope there is a lull in the
+"Sieges."
+
+Miss H---- went last week to have her hair washed, and during the
+process her hair-dresser remarked casually to her, "We shall be in
+Paris in a day or two, and in London in another week, and when we have
+conquered England as well as France you will all have to learn to
+speak German." This shows the amazing conceit and arrogance of the
+people. Poor, ignorant things, they are quite hoodwinked by their
+rulers--and even look forward to seeing their Kaiser "Emperor of
+Europe"! One day we read that a bag has been made of 30,000 Russians,
+the next that the number was understated, and that it is 70,000. As
+for Belgians and French, every day 10,000 men and guns _ad lib._ are
+captured, and the poor silly people believe it all. Villas and streets
+are still beflagged, and by this time we know every patriotic song in
+the "Vaterlandslieder" book by heart. One tries to be plucky, but our
+hearts are very sad just now.
+
+Paris seems doomed, and apparently the French have abandoned hope
+too, since Poincare and his Cabinet have gone to Bordeaux. The German
+Press call him a "Feiger" (Coward).
+
+_September 9th._--Unaccountably the forward march seems to have been
+checked, although we don't know why. Maubeuge has fallen, and of
+course the usual bell-ringing and bunting and singing has celebrated
+the victory. We cannot understand what our troops are doing. There is
+no mention of them in the German papers, only columns of sneers and
+abuse of England.
+
+_September 10th._--A rumour has reached us that the Crown Prince has
+been captured, and that the enemy is retreating. No official
+confirmation has come to hand however; but the flags are down at last,
+and the jangling of bells has ceased, and we have not heard
+"Deutschland ueber Alles" for twenty-four hours, "Gott sei Dank"!
+Prince Joachim is wounded, and he has sent a telegram worded after the
+manner of his dear Papa, thanking God who in His goodness permitted
+him to be wounded for his beloved Fatherland. I wonder what Frederick
+the Great would have thought of these boastful warriors. We English
+are looked upon with horror as the brutal barbarians who use dum dum
+bullets, and Sir Edward Grey's dignified disclaimer is reported under
+the polite heading "Grey leugnet" (Grey lies).
+
+_September 11th._--Nothing new in the situation, but we rejoice to see
+grave faces and groups looking solemn in the streets, and talking in
+subdued voices, and thank God! we hear no bell-ringing! Everything
+cheering we read in the "Corriere della Sera" is denied in the
+"Frankfurter Zeitung" or given as a production of the "Luegen Fabrik"
+(manufactory of lies).
+
+_September 12th._--The Germans seem depressed, no flags, no bands, and
+although there is a notice posted up in the town to say that the Crown
+Prince has achieved another victory, there is evidently something
+unsatisfactory in the background to counterbalance this. I draw
+deductions from the "Frankfurter Zeitung," which has a bitter article
+entitled "Torheiten" (Folly), and which speaks of the "Kindische
+Freudengeheul" (childish howls of joy) of the English and French
+Press, because "ein parr Kalonnen deutscher Soldaten ein Stuck weges
+zurueckgezogen haben" (two columns of German soldiers had withdrawn a
+bit of the way back). Then the writer contrasts the boastful words
+("prahlender woerte") of England with the self-restraint and pious calm
+and virtuous behaviour of Germany. One has only to look at the
+postcards in the Park Strasse to see which of the combatants is
+boastful. England is drawn as ignominiously lying on the ground (when
+she isn't running away) and Germany invariably is kicking or thrashing
+her.
+
+People are less friendly than at first, though the bath attendants,
+people in the Inhalatorium, and doctors are most kind. I had tea at
+Mueller's with Miss H---- the other day. There were at least thirty
+empty chairs in the tea-room, but a German woman marched up to the
+chair on which I had laid my daily newspaper, and ordered me to take
+it off, as she must have my chair! She was stout and ugly, and had a
+way of doing her hair which, as a writer says, "alone would have
+proved impeccable virtue in the face of incriminating circumstantial
+evidence." For all their "Kultur" Germans are gross, and to the last
+degree inartistic. Their "_nouveau art_" is repulsive; their dressing
+outrageously ugly, and their cooking atrocious. I have watched them
+here year after year tramping up and down the shady walks stolidly
+drinking, wearing garments of ingeniously devised ugliness and blind
+to "_l'inutile beaute_." There is no variety of type nor individuality
+of person in either men or women. These worthy _Hausfrauen_ have no
+grace of dainty frills, diaphanous lace or rustling petticoats. They
+are obviously and incontestably of the class described by a witty
+writer to whom "a lace petticoat is as much a badge of infamy as a
+cigarette on the stage." The German proletariat cannot be susceptible
+to externals, else the universal sad-coloured skirt, the ill-fitting
+blouse and the ugly hat worn by his women-folk could not find favour
+in his eyes.
+
+Life in Altheim has changed under war conditions. The Kur Haus is
+closed, there are no teas on the Terrace or promenadings to the
+strains of Grieg or Strauss, or theatrical performances. The German
+Kur-Gaeste have left, and only the Russian, English and a few Belgian
+prisoners of war remain. Russians here are chiefly of a very low
+class. Most of the women go about bareheaded, and all are rough and
+unkempt and dirty-looking. I fancy some of them have suffered much
+privation, but happily their order of release has come. They will have
+to travel by Denmark, Sweden and across to Petrograd. The weather is
+autumnal, and they have only summer clothes, like us. We cannot help
+them, having so little money ourselves. I have had to borrow twice,
+and tried to sell my jewellery without success, but I have developed a
+latent and unsuspected talent for laundry work. The pretty summer
+shops in the Park Strasse are now closed, and the sound of beating
+mattresses is heard everywhere; the blinds of most of the villas are
+drawn down, and the families having no longer lodgers have descended
+to their winter quarters on the ground floor. Only a few _einspaenners_
+are left, as both _Kutschers_ and horses are gone to meet a
+"Heldentod" for their Fatherland.
+
+One sees white-capped nurses and Red Cross Ambulance men and wounded
+and bandaged warriors everywhere. When recovered, the soldiers get
+three days leave to visit their families, and then return to the
+Front. Poor souls! Shops are chiefly tended by women nowadays, and
+the German Frau is not a capable shopkeeper like the French woman. A
+"Drogerie" here is presided over by the wife of the man who owns it,
+in his absence at the war. She is a gentle, rather pretty creature,
+but amazingly slow and stupid. If tooth-powder be asked for, she
+mounts a ladder, searches among a hundred bottles, shakes her head
+despairingly, and wonders where her "Mann" has put it. Outside her
+Kueche and house, the German woman does not shine, but she is a
+faithful unselfish wife, and a good and affectionate mother. Mr. Ives
+thinks we shall certainly get away next week. I hope so! The weather
+is cold and rainy, and there is no fire-place in my room.
+
+_September 13th._--The Altheim daily papers complain that they are
+inundated with foolish questions over the telephone. "Ist Namur
+belgisch oder franzoesisch?" (Is Namur Belgian or French?)
+
+"Gehen die Schottlaender wirklich mit nackten Beinen in die Schlacht?"
+(Do the Highlanders really go into battle with naked legs?)
+
+"Wie lange wird es ungefaehr dauern, bis die Deutschen Paris
+eingenommen haben?" (How long will it be before the Germans have
+taken Paris?) and so on.
+
+_September 14th._--Again rumours of our going, but even though release
+will be most welcome, we all dread the journey. Terrible tales come to
+us of the treatment meted out to foreigners crossing the frontier.
+Many English were turned out of Wiesbaden and sent here. At F---- they
+had their luggage searched, and the ladies of the party were stripped
+to the skin by women who even combed their hair to see if by any
+ingenuity they had concealed plans and drawings in the puffs and
+coils, two soldiers with fixed bayonets mounting guard meanwhile
+outside. No doubt we shall remember this journey to the end of our
+lives, but what can you expect from a people whose Prophet Nietzsche
+says, "What is more harmful than any vice? Pity for the weak and
+helpless--Christianity!"
+
+_September 15th._--The singular absence of humour of the Germans often
+amuses me. I think it was Palmerston who described Germany as "that
+land of damned Professors." They are all so desperately in earnest,
+and their "Kultur" is so serious, that jokes and fun seem like
+blasphemy. My penury has again been relieved by Mr. S----'s kind loan
+of L1. Lady M---- came in to tell me that the American Vice-Consul had
+telegraphed to Mr. W---- the good news that we are all to go on
+Monday, Tuesday or Wednesday next. I have heard this story so often
+that I am utterly sceptical. We conclude that things are going badly
+for the enemy, since there is no bell-ringing, and the flags have been
+taken in.
+
+[Illustration: NUR IN LONDON NICHT
+(_But not in London!_)]
+
+_September 16th._--I hear that no men who have served in the Army or
+Navy are to be allowed to go with us. To-day's "Frankfurter Zeitung"
+thinks that England must be at her last gasp, or she would not have
+"barbarians such as Indians, Japanese and _Highlanders_" fighting her
+battles for her! They also declare on "unimpeachable evidence" that
+India is in a state of revolt, and that the Japanese are to be
+despatched at once to quell the rebellion. Any misfortune to the
+British delights them.
+
+_September 17th._--The B----s, who to our envy have received special
+passes to go to Denmark, got as far as Hamburg and then had their
+passports taken from them. The Chaplain and his wife disappeared one
+morning, and we learn that he obtained a special pass on the ground of
+being a clergyman. He was heard to utter something about the "Bishop
+of London," and perhaps that was the talisman. Lady M---- tells me
+that they have arrived in Hamburg, we wonder what their fate will be!
+
+A delightful story has just reached me from an Italian source. In the
+church of a Convent Hospital in France, one of the sisters was
+praying aloud with immense fervour, and when she came to the
+"Confiteor" she said: "C'est ma faute! c'est ma faute! c'est ma tres
+grande faute," whereupon uprose a Turco crying out: "Ah! non! ma
+Soeur! c'est la faute a Guilleaume!"
+
+_September 18th._--A letter at last! but only one from the American
+Consul at Frankfort, saying that the Foreign Office wanted to know my
+whereabouts as several friends had inquired about me and my safety. I
+can't imagine why, when America rescued her stranded citizens long
+ago, and sent them money to get home, we should be suffering like
+this. Nothing more about the phantom train! Our nerves are becoming
+wrought up, and we are developing unexpectedly irritable and
+argumentative natures. The weather is amazingly windy and horribly
+cold, one shivers in summer garments, and cannot afford to buy warmer
+things. A leading article in the "Frankfurter Zeitung" gives us a
+grain of comfort, since it is headed "Geduld und Zuversicht" (patience
+and confidence), and begins,
+
+"In consequence of the victorious news of the first weeks, those
+remaining at home had become accustomed to constant victories, and
+the pause in the news of the battlefield of the West is a great trial
+of patience." Long may that trial last! On the whole we ought to be
+thankful that we are in Hesse and not in Prussia. The Hessians are a
+simple, kindly people, pleasant, and good tempered. I have known
+Germany well for eighteen years. When first we travelled in the
+Fatherland I found each Duchy, or Kingdom, or Principality, devoted to
+its own particular Ruler, and little outside it mattered to its
+people. Nowadays there are no Hessians or Wuertembergers, not even
+Saxons or Bavarians, but all are Germans, and for one photograph of
+the Grand Duke of Hesse and his Duchess you will see here one hundred
+of "Unser Kaiser" and "Unsere Kaiserin." They have become
+Imperialists, and the ambitious spirit which animates them is shown by
+the act of a soldier at Liege who chalked up on a wall: "Kaiser
+Wilhelm the Second, Emperor of Europe."
+
+I have now 2_d._ left in the world, and have not taken my inhalation
+for two days, not being able to pay for it. The money I telegraphed
+for has not yet come, and life seems very difficult! I think of the
+old lines:
+
+    "'Tis a very good world we live in,
+    To lend, or to spend, or to give in;
+    But to beg, or to borrow, or get a man's own,
+    'Tis the very worst world that ever was known."
+
+_September 19th._--At the eleventh hour and when I seemed at the end
+of my resources, help came from a most unexpected quarter! I can never
+cease to be grateful for the goodness and kindness which relieved my
+distress. The Germans look downcast, the Russians jubilant. How
+paternal this Government is no one who has not lived in Germany can
+imagine. For instance, above the nearest pillar box I saw a notice
+written "Don't forget address and stamps!"
+
+_September 20th._--Our passports are now in the hands of the military
+authorities at Frankfort, and Mr. Ives, the American Vice-Consul, is
+doing all in his power to get us leave to go. The Superintendent of
+the Inhalatorium is most kind and sympathetic. She inquired why I had
+not been there for three days, and when I told her "Gar kein Geld" (no
+money) was the cause, she cried with real feeling, "Schrecklich!"
+(terrible). Any thing to do with money or the want of it appeals to
+the Teutonic mind, although the Germans sneer at us for being a nation
+of shopkeepers. There are two words we hope never to hear again,
+"Kultur" and "Unser." "Unser Deutschland," "Unser Kaiser," "Unser
+Kultur." How weary and trite are these! What an extraordinary mixture
+the Germans are, brave, conceited, sentimental, prosaic, patriotic,
+and yet no people so soon lose their national characteristics, and
+become citizens of another country as Germans. Many of their
+intellectual poses are absolutely morbid. They adore Ibsen as a
+playwright and despise Goldsmith and Sheridan; they worship Gauguin,
+and the school of Impressionists, and have little appreciation
+nowadays for pre-Raphaelitism. They are intensely and truly musical,
+and it is amazing, taking into consideration their extraordinary lack
+of humour, that they should be such accomplished students of
+Shakespeare, but of real wit or humour the German possesses not an
+atom. Take, for instance, the modern novels of Suderman, of Rudolph
+Herzog, of Rudolph Stratz, of Bernard Kellerman, of Paul Heyse, and
+you will find intense seriousness, tragedy, pathos, masterly drawing
+of character, and absolutely no fun from cover to cover. As for the
+"Fliegende Blaetter," the German "Punch," it is the sickliest imitation
+of humour possible to conceive. Foremost in science, the German is yet
+a neophyte in the graces and arts of life. What cooking! what clothes!
+
+_September 22nd._--If we may believe such good news we are to be
+released from this irksome life, and set at liberty next Saturday. Our
+joy is much damped, however, by hearing that none of the men are to be
+allowed to leave, and, of course, their wives stay with them. Mr. Ives
+has made a special journey to Berlin on behalf of our poor men, but
+the authorities are obdurate.
+
+People say that the loss of life in this terrible war is beyond belief
+as far as the Germans are concerned. To hide this the Emperor requests
+that no one shall wear mourning for the dead until the war is over.
+Also, no complete catalogues of casualties are issued, only lists for
+each kingdom, or duchy, so that the bulk of the people have no idea of
+the waste of life. The wounded being so numerous, the doctors now have
+little time to attend to them on the spot, and therefore they are put
+into trains and sent off to "Lazaretts" sometimes before even their
+wounds are washed. A Belgian lady who had a special police permit to
+go to Frankfort, returned this afternoon in a train full of wounded
+soldiers. One of these was put into her carriage. He had been badly
+shot in the arm; his sleeve was soaked with blood, and that had
+coagulated; his wound had never been washed, and French earth was
+still on his boots, and yet he had been sent in this condition from
+Rheims to Giessen!
+
+_September 23rd._--Terrible news! A telegram was posted up in the town
+this morning, saying that three English "Panzerkreuzers" had been sunk
+by one German submarine. Of course the church bells pealed, and the
+flags came out, and the children sang "Nun danket alle Gott," because
+950 brave Englishmen had gone under. We are much depressed, and our
+depression is aggravated by the want of occupation here. We dare not
+sketch for fear of being "verhaftet" (arrested). It is no good writing
+because every scrap of paper will be taken from us on the frontier;
+nobody I know plays bridge, and so I read and walk all day long. Miss
+H---- tells me that a rude young clerk in the "Loewen-Apotheke" refused
+to talk English to her this morning, "You will have to learn German
+now, because we shall be in London within a fortnight," said he! No
+German I have yet known foresees any other result of this war but
+success. The Fatherland Commissariat, according to the Italian papers,
+leaves much to be desired. The unfortunate soldiers are almost
+starving, and often live for days together on raw carrots, turnips,
+herbs, or any other vegetable they can root up out of the ground. The
+doctors are puzzled because men have died of such seemingly slight
+wounds. One case seemed so incomprehensible that an autopsy was
+decided on, and a raw root with fragments of earth upon it was found
+in the poor creature's stomach. The Russians left at 5 a.m. this
+morning, men and women. It is more than hard that our poor men should
+be left behind. Lady M----, who has been ill, and her daughter, an
+invalid lady, and her maid, were given special passes to go a couple
+of days ago. Miss M---- and Miss G---- went to the police station
+armed with these passes, and requested to have their passports back.
+"The Demon" curtly refused. "But you _must_ give them to us," said
+Miss M----. "Don't say _muessen_ to me!" said "the Demon," "_bitten_
+is the word!" (Don't say _must_ to me, _beg_ is the word).
+
+_September 24th._--Joyfully packing! A last meeting was held at the
+"Prince of Wales' Hotel" where kind Mr. S---- presided, and we all
+received instructions for our journey, and our long detained
+passports!
+
+Fifty women and children go. We sleep in Frankfort, and cross from
+Flushing to Folkestone. Oh! that terrible mined sea, and the
+"untersuchung" of the Frontier. I tremble for this Diary, all letters
+I have destroyed.
+
+FRANKFORT, _September 25th._--We are still in the enemy's country of
+course, but have come out of our prison Altheim. All were early at the
+Bahn-Hof. There for the last time, please God! we found our old horror
+the Chief of Police. He had a long paper in his hand, and read out our
+names; "Hamilton?" "Here!" "Your passport?" (which he scrutinised as
+if he had never seen such a thing before), and so on. As we got our
+precious papers back we passed through the barrier, where our tickets
+were clipped, and on to the platform above. The train when it came in
+was crammed with soldiers, and we were advised to wait two hours for
+the next, but (to a woman) we all preferred travelling third, or even
+fourth class, rather than remain another hour where we had suffered so
+much. Miss G---- told me afterwards that she had travelled with two
+German men, who cursed England up and down, using the most horrible
+language about her.
+
+Presently a wounded soldier came into the carriage, and they asked him
+where he had been fighting. "On the Western Frontier," said he.
+
+"With the French?"
+
+"Yes."
+
+"Did you see the English?"
+
+"No."
+
+"Of course not! They had all run away. Cowards, cowards!"
+
+These are the things which make life so unendurable in an enemy's
+land. I was sent here to the "Hessicher-Hof," which, although it
+masquerades under another name, I had no difficulty in recognising as
+the former "Englischer-Hof." Miss H---- went to the "Hotel Bristol,"
+and when she got there found over the door the one word "Hotel." What
+we women should have done without the able committee who arranged all
+details for us with such kindness and thoroughness, I cannot imagine.
+
+_September 28th._--There were few tears shed when we steamed out of
+Frankfort two days ago on our way to home and freedom. It was
+wonderful to feel that we might talk above a whisper in the
+railway-carriage; amazing that we had not to scrutinize carefully
+every corner to be sure no spies lurked there, and most delightful of
+all to know that we had got beyond the reach of the Demon of the
+Burg-Strasse. Egotistically enough we went over in retrospect our
+anxieties, disappointments and miseries. Should we ever get rid of
+that evil shadow, we wondered, which had darkened so cruelly two weary
+months of our lives!
+
+Now and then we looked out of the windows with distaste--agreed that
+the outskirts of Frankfort were hideous with their obtrusive and
+insistent collection of factory chimneys; and shuddered at the distant
+and beautiful background of mountain and forest, to us so teeming
+with painful memories. We exclaimed at the unsightliness of the huge
+skeleton lettering proclaiming to all the world that a _maschinen-Fabrik_
+was below. Even when we entered a bucolic region of modest gardens and
+saw nothing more aggressive than cabbages and turnips, we turned away
+from the sight with aversion. Yet the villages are picturesque enough,
+and so are the towns. Timber-framed and gabled houses, steeply pitched
+red roofs and stunted grey and mossy church spires, certainly make no
+unpleasing picture. In happier days I have admired the grape-vines
+meandering over the whitewashed cottages, and marvelled at the
+monotony of taste which furnished every window-ledge with exactly four
+pots of scarlet geraniums. Now, nothing pleased us that was German;
+scenery, architecture or people! "This," we said to ourselves, is "the
+sunny Rhineland through which we are passing, and we see no obvious
+signs as we go by of the struggle which is devastating Belgium and
+menacing France." At the first station, however, we realised that
+Germany was indeed at war. Red Cross nurses seemed everywhere. Long
+tables were spread with snowy cloths and bore coffee urns, zwiebacks,
+hoernchen and huge bowls of steaming soup ready for the poor wounded as
+they pass through. Now and then pale bandaged faces looked out at us
+from passing trains, and men on crutches hobbled by, and the horrors
+of mutilating war came home to us all. At Goch we had to show our
+passports, and have our luggage examined, but the reality proved not
+nearly so bad as our imaginings, and on the whole the officials were
+kind and courteous compared to our Altheim demon. The sun was setting
+blood-red behind a distant line of black forest when we left Goch and
+our enemies and imprisonment behind us and entered the Land of Promise.
+
+We had all been saddened in the morning to learn that Mr. Ives'
+strenuous efforts to get permission for the men left behind to go
+soon, had met with a curt refusal from the Commandant at Frankfort.
+"When England returns our men, not before, and she had better be quick
+about it," said he. But how true is Rochefoucauld's cynical
+epigram--"Nous avons tous assez de force pour supporter les maux
+d'Autrui!" Even our sympathy with, and sorrow for, those left in
+Altheim could not damp the joy we felt to be free again; and when we
+quitted Goch, the German frontier station, I thought how blessed would
+be that day when "They shall beat their swords into ploughshares and
+their spears into pruning hooks; nation shall not lift up a sword
+against nation, neither shall they learn war any more. But they shall
+sit every man under his vine and under his fig-tree; and none shall
+make them afraid."
+
+
+
+
+                          GERMAN TRAVEL NOTES
+
+                            "TAKIN' NOTES"
+
+
+He who knows his Rhine and loves it must take of its charms in small
+doses, or satiety is the outcome. There are those, of course, who can
+travel from Dan to Beersheba and cry, "'Tis all barren"; but the
+ordinarily intelligent traveller may find much to delight and interest
+on the banks of the Rhine, always provided that he suits his mood to
+his environment, and takes but little of Rhine scenery at a time. For
+surely between Coblentz and Bingen there is an iteration as regards
+castles and ruins which is downright wearisome. Do we not between
+these points find Lahneck, Marksburg, Sterrenberg, Liebenstein, The
+Mouse, Rheinfels, The Cat, Schoenburg, Gutenfels, The Pfalz, Stahleck,
+Furstenberg, Hohneck, Sooneck, Falkenburg, Rheinstein, and Ehrenfels?
+
+Moreover, there is an affinity of form and colour and, indeed, of
+situation between all these which produces the effect of perpetual
+repetition. And we owe Byron a grudge for having written such trite
+words as "the castled crag" in relation to the Rhine, since no
+commonplace mind of the present day acquainted with his works but has
+fallen back on "the castled crag" to describe Drachenfels or Marksburg
+or Rheinfels, because, forsooth, its own English is too limited to
+supply a better adjective. So it is that conventional and inadequate
+English is perpetuated and individual force and expression are lost
+because people accept the ideas of others and will not seek language
+to convey their own.
+
+All of which above prosing is the result of a day on the Rhine when
+the thermometer registered 74 deg. to 84 deg. in the shade, and a white vapour
+hid the banks of the river from Koeln till close on Bonn. At Bonn a
+huge party of "personally-conducted" American tourists came on board.
+Their sharp, keen, eager, shrewd faces and shrill voices proclaimed
+their nationality at the outset. They were all obviously outside the
+pale of Society, and their thirst for information and keen interest in
+their surroundings were amazing. One learned before long that they had
+"done" the Paris Exhibition and meant to have a "look in" at most
+European countries before sailing from Naples. They took the whole
+ship into their confidence before a quarter of an hour had passed; and
+we shared alike in thrilling intelligences conveyed through the medium
+of Baedeker's pages. "The castled crag" resounded from one end of the
+boat to the other; and as for Roland and Hildegunde, the tragedy of
+their lives was discussed, and exclaimed over, and lamented, until,
+happily, a bend of the river hid Nonnenwerth from sight.
+
+In emphatic contrast to the nervous alertness of the Yankee was the
+spectacle of the middle-class German and his ways. He sat by his
+plain, stout, ill-dressed Frau, with his back to the scenery, and ate.
+Occasionally he spoke in monosyllables: more often he drank; but the
+end and object of his Rhine trip seemed to be that of consuming as
+much food as lay within the limits of possibility. What Nemesis has in
+store for him and those of his manner of life I can only imagine!
+
+At a table near us sat three women and two men. Directly we left Koeln
+a waiter set forth trays in front of them laden with coffee,
+zwiebacks, hoernchens, and eggs. This meal over, they sat sleepily
+blinking their eyes, whisking away flies, and mopping the moisture
+from their faces until the sound of "Eis! meine Herrschaften!" "Bier!
+meine Herrschaften!" roused them from their lethargy. Ices and beer
+and cherries and peaches successively filled up the weary hours until
+"the tocsin of the soul, the dinner bell," carried joy to their
+hearts. I can never forget the rapturous look of anticipation and
+satisfaction which those stolid middle-class Teutonic countenances
+wore when "Mittagsessen" was announced. They shook off their normal
+and habitual torpidity, and cheerfully elbowed their neighbours,
+nearly tumbling down the companion-ladder in their eagerness to be
+first in the field. They lost no time over the unlovely detail of
+tucking a corner of their napkins down their necks, and smoothing its
+folds over their protuberant persons; and they studied the
+Speise-Karte with a conscientiousness that was worthy of a better
+cause.
+
+Dinner began with a tolerably good soup, followed by tough roast beef,
+cut in thick slices and garnished with carrots, peas and beans. Next
+came veal, equally uneatable, and then a surprise in the shape of
+Rhine salmon; after which followed chicken, salad, and _compote_.
+Finally, a stodgy pudding, sufficiently satisfying, and dessert. Not
+one item of the menu was neglected by the five. They calmly and
+conscientiously and readily ate through the Speise-Karte from start to
+finish. Then they returned to deck, only to order coffee and ices, and
+called for a bottle of champagne, three of light Rhine wine, and a
+plateful of peaches; out of which they brewed a cup, ladling it from a
+Taunus ware bowl into their long Munich glasses, and sipping it lazily
+all the afternoon between such trifles as Kuchen and fresh relays of
+cherries. They ate and drank from Koeln to Bingen with rare intervals
+of dozing, and I never once saw any of the party take the faintest
+interest in the Rhine, so far as its banks were concerned.
+
+It was a relief to turn from such grossness to its antithesis in the
+shape of two American ladies who sat near us. They were
+well-preserved, well-bred spinsters under forty. Everything about them
+was dainty and exquisitely neat. I likened them in my mind to bowls of
+dried rose-leaves--the freshness gone, the perfume left. Such was
+their intense and intelligent interest in travel that, rather than
+lose a timber-framed village or historic castle, a vineyard or
+watch-tower, they abstained from lunch and picnicked lightly on deck
+off tea and eggs and hoernchen. They knew the legends of the Rhine as
+you and I know (or ought to know) our Prayer-Books. They had studied
+the history of Germany, and mastered the intricacies alike of the
+Thirty Years' War and of the Hohenzollern pedigree; and they talked
+well, expressing their ideas in good Saxon words; at times, perhaps a
+trifle pedantic, but never offensively so.
+
+As the day wore on the temperature became almost overpowering. The
+water reflected a blinding glare, and a heat like that of a burning
+fiery furnace was radiated from the engines. I was wondering whether a
+hammock in a cool English garden would not have been more desirable,
+when I heard a plaintive, uneducated American voice behind me ask a
+question of its mate which exactly embodied my own unuttered
+sentiments:
+
+"What _I_ want to know, Jake, is: Is this pleasure, or ain't it? Did
+we come here to enjoy ourselves, or what?"
+
+JAKE: "Wall, I guess you ain't used to travelling around, my dear, and
+you don't understand it. Oh, yes" (with an obvious effort), "this is
+real fust-class pleasure, this is!"
+
+MRS. JAKE: "Wall, I'm darned! I'd as lief be in our store."
+
+JAKE: "Sakes alive! You _do_ surprise me! Think what Keren-Happuch
+Jones will say when you mention casual on your return something that
+happened when you was sailing up the Rhine. She'll die of envy, she
+will, and spite to think you've seen more'n her."
+
+MRS. JAKE (cheered somewhat): "Wall, I reckon, Jake, there's summat in
+that. Keren-Happuch don't like anyone to do what she don't do."
+
+JAKE: "And then, my dear, think of your noo bonnet from Paris! That'll
+be another pill for Keren-Happuch to swallow."
+
+MRS. JAKE: "My! Yes! I don't think much of Europe, anyway, but I could
+never have bought that bonnet in Baltimore. But, Jake, do look on the
+map and tell me when we get to Heidelberg."
+
+JAKE: "It ain't any good my lookin', my dear, for I wasn't raised to
+these sort of things, and I'm darned if I know where to find it."
+
+A groan from Mrs. Jake, followed by: "Wall, I reckon when I find
+myself again in No. 9, Mount Mascal Street, I won't want to go
+travelling around even to cut out Keren-Happuch Jones."
+
+I came to the rescue at this point, and showed the good lady where
+Heidelberg lay. She was a hard-featured, plain woman of some
+thirty-eight summers, her hair was dragged back uncompromisingly from
+her forehead, and there were no "adulteries of art" about either
+coiffure or costume.
+
+"You see," she said apologetically, "Jake here and me are travelling
+around, and the only way we can get on is to ask for a ticket to a
+place, and never stop travelling till we get there. We speak German
+all right because my parents were Germans, and Jake was born in
+Germany; but he don't know much about it because he was only two years
+old when he left it eight-and-thirty years ago. We thought we'd like
+to see the Paris Exposition, but my! it ain't to be compared to the
+Chicago Exhibition, and as for Paris, it can't come up to Noo York,
+and these river steamers ain't a patch on the Hudson River boats, and
+I don't think much of Europe anyway."
+
+Jake, a good-looking, gentle-mannered man, tried to soften the
+asperity of his wife's strictures without success. He evidently adored
+her.
+
+"The way we travel," resumed Mrs. Jake, "is to think of a place we've
+heard of, and to ask for a ticket to it. Now, we'd heard of Paris and
+Cologne, and Heidelberg, and Baden, and Dresden, and Berlin, and
+Hamburg, but we don't know now how they come--see? So we hev' to go
+cavortin' around to find out which to take next. A gentleman way back
+at Cologne"--she pronounced it "Klon"--"told me Heidelberg came next.
+I quite thought Baden was near Hamburg, and that we should take it
+last; but they tell me it ain't, and that, you see, has upset all our
+calculations. Guess you're a Londoner, anyway; thought so by your
+accent!"
+
+When we left the steamer at Bingen, the last I heard of Mrs. Jake was
+a plaintive moan:
+
+"Guess I don't think much of Europe, anyway, and I wouldn't come
+again, not even to cut out Keren-Happuch!"
+
+
+
+
+         OF SOME FELLOW TRAVELLERS AND THE CATHEDRAL OF MAINZ.
+
+
+"Ja Wohl! Frau Rittergutsbesitzer. I have lived in the Herr
+Professor's house for five-and-thirty years. I have pickled his
+cabbage and preserved his fruit. I have minced with my own hand the
+pork for his sausages before they had mincing-machines in
+Schleswig-Holstein. I have seen personally to the smoking of his hams
+and fish. I make his Apfelkuchen and Nusskuchen myself, and do not buy
+them in the shop, like that lazy Hausfrau opposite us at No 2, who
+comes from that God-forgotten country England, where all the women are
+so badly brought up. I grant you that what I do is no more than the
+duty of every God-fearing German _Haushaelterin_; none the less, I do
+not mean all my work to go for nothing, and I will not be ousted by a
+hussy! In the time of the _vielbedauerten_ mother (Frau Regierungsrat
+Lenbach) I had no worries about his matrimonial affairs; she looked
+after those. But _sieh mal_, Frau Riedel, now the care of him is on my
+shoulders. He has no more idea of taking care of himself than a baby!
+He is exactly like that learned man--I think it was our great
+Neander--who was running out of his college one day and ran into a
+cow; so he pulled off his hat and said, '_Gnaedige Frau, ich bitte um
+Verzeihung_' ('Gracious lady, I beg your pardon'), and went on; and
+the week after he came tearing round the same corner, thinking, I
+suppose, of those heathen gods and goddesses whose pictures shame a
+modest woman to look at, and he ran up against a lady, so he cried
+out: '_Oh! du dumme Kuh! warum kommst du mir immer in den Weg?_' ('Oh,
+you stupid cow, why will you always get in my way?') Yes, my Herr
+Professor is just like that--quite as stupid, though they call him so
+wise and clever; and what chance has a born innocent like he is
+against a designing spinster of forty-five who makes him presents of
+_Weihnachtstollen_ at Christmas, _Oster-Eier_ at Easter, and
+_Geburtstagstorte_ on his birthday? I ask you what chance of escape a
+poor _Junggeselle_ has?
+
+"Told him she wanted to marry him! Not I. Why, _liebe Frau_, I have
+not lived sixty-five and a half years in this world for nothing! If I
+let him suppose she was in love with him, that would be the very way
+to make him like her. So as I laid the cloth for the Herr Professor's
+_Abendtisch_, I remarked casually that Fraeulein Bettine Meyer was not
+at all a bad sort of woman really, and that she had some excellent
+qualities, if only she did not make herself so ridiculous. 'How
+ridiculous?' says he, sitting up. 'What does she do ridiculous, I
+should like to know?' 'Why, wears a false front and curls bought at
+Frau Koelsch's shop,' says I. 'Poor thing, she can't make herself look
+young and beautiful, whatever she does, and Frau Rittmeister Bernstorf
+was laughing at her the other day, and at the high heels and at the
+stuffing the _Schneiderin_ round the corner puts into her gowns to
+cover the angular bones! She would look much more respectable,' said
+I, 'if she would brush her scanty grey locks back, and smooth them
+with pomatum as I do, and wear a black lace _Muetze_ over them, instead
+of making herself the laughing-stock of Schleswig.' And away I walked.
+And the Professor ate no supper that night, and next day he left for
+his _Ferienausflug_, and never called to say good-bye to Fraeulein
+Meyer; and so I put the extinguisher on that little candle just as its
+flame was beginning to burn up, and--why! here we are at Mainz."
+
+And this is what I heard, and how I was entertained, in the
+"elektrische Bahn" on my little expedition from Wiesbaden to Mainz. I
+reflected, as I saw the Haushaelterin get down heavily with all the
+deliberation of her sixty-five and a half years, that feline amenities
+are much the same in Germany as in England; and I felt sorry for poor
+Fraeulein Meyer, who might have given up her small vanities and made
+pancakes and _Apfelkuchen_ for the Professor quite as well in the end
+as the Haushaelterin.
+
+The cathedral of Mainz was, of course, the object of our expedition.
+It dominates the city from afar, with its wonderful towers and
+pinnacles, making of Mainz (a commonplace city enough) a thing of
+beauty. From the shores of the Rhine we crossed a wide street planted
+with trees and lined on each hand with modern German houses of pinkish
+stone (covered with heavy sculpture and breaking out into countless
+balconies and bay windows), and soon found ourselves in the
+market-place. And here, indeed, one felt oneself in the Germany of
+bygone days. Instead of pseudo-classic buildings, heavy with
+meaningless ornamentation, we found beautiful old timber-framed
+houses, with deep eaves and wood carvings. On one of these I read:
+
+                          Zum Kurfuerstlichen
+                                Wappen.
+                           Erneuert in Jahr
+                               des Heils
+                                 1899.
+
+It was evidently a Gasthaus of considerable antiquity, and had been
+carefully restored. Close by a Brobdingnagian finger lured the unwary
+to where it pointed--a low doorway above which was inscribed the
+legend: "_Hier essen Sie gut_." The market-place had been dismantled
+of its stalls and umbrellas all but one, which was being furled as we
+arrived on the scene. A couple of men in blue smocks were sweeping up
+the cabbage leaves, straw and refuse, market carts were driving off,
+and smart-looking officers in beautiful uniforms strolled across what
+we English miscall "a square" for want of a better word.
+
+But to get a good view of the exterior of the cathedral was what we
+wanted, and to this end we dived down strange, evil-smelling alleys,
+and went round and round a labyrinth of streets, always expecting to
+see, and never arriving at, the cathedral's facade. At last we
+realised that the quest was hopeless, since the building is so
+surrounded and deformed by commonplace, ugly houses that nothing of it
+but roof and towers can be seen from outside. We entered it at last by
+a narrow lane between poor, ugly houses, an unfit approach indeed to
+this beautiful Romanesque cathedral--one of the four famous Romanesque
+Gothic cathedrals of Germany. The general effect of the interior is
+that of strength, solidity, and simplicity. The grand structural lines
+are noble and pure. There is an entire absence of the florid in
+architecture, and no attempt at all at decoration as one understands
+it in Spanish cathedrals. The tone of the walls and floor is a pinkish
+brown, and the whole church has a warm glowing effect from its
+richly-coloured stone. I could have spared most, if not all, of the
+overladen rococo monuments to the Electors of Mainz, with their
+monstrous records of impossible perfections; but my companion (a
+German lady) thought them beautiful. The whole church struck one as
+rather ill-kept; perhaps the red stone floor had something to do with
+it. Dust and mud do not adhere somehow to an opus Alexandrinum
+pavement. A guide appeared to offer his services, almost obsequiously
+polite in his attentions to the English lady. Whatever their opinions
+may be as to our failings and vices, our shortcomings and our
+iniquities, most Germans are civil to us nowadays.[3] They hate us
+cordially, envy us sincerely, attack us in the press and out of it,
+and are insanely jealous of the people they affect to despise. But
+while the superficial _entente_ lasts, they smile and bow and are
+outwardly polite. I asked an English lady, the widow of a German
+official, if her husband, having married an English wife, did not
+cherish kindlier sentiments towards us than the majority of his
+countrymen. "He died during the Boer war," she said, "and he died in
+the sure and certain hope that England was done for."
+
+    [Footnote 3: This was written before the war.]
+
+Apart from the Domkirche, there is little to see in Mainz, although
+the city is of great antiquity, having been founded by Drusus. It is a
+strongly fortified place, and stood once upon a time a memorable
+siege. There are pleasant walks by the Rhine, beautiful Anlagen, a
+picturesque old tower, and the site of Gutenberg's house to see. The
+Grand Ducal Palace once sheltered Napoleon the First, as did many
+another palace in Germany. The present Grand Duke prefers his palace
+in Darmstadt, the Neue Palais (built by Queen Victoria for Princess
+Alice), and comes little to the ancient city of bygone Electors.
+
+We have fallen into German ways--alarming thought!--and become
+unquestionably alive to the virtues of cafes and Restaurations as a
+wind-up to a day's expedition. At Mainz we discovered a cafe close to
+the theatre, and sipped coffee and ate _Streuselkuchen_ out of doors
+in the shadow of the cathedral and Gutenberg's statue. A
+pleasant-faced Gretchen brought us miniature Mont Blancs of whipped
+cream on small glass plates, and loitered near us ostensibly
+rearranging a table, but in reality studying our gowns and hats.
+Before we paid our Rechnung, the Haushaelterin and Frau Rittergutsbesitzer
+turned up hot and rather cross, having spent their time since we
+parted in futile attempts to match Schleswig-Holstein ribbons with
+those of the sunny Rhineland.
+
+
+
+
+                             SCHLANGENBAD.
+
+                     GREEN HILLS AND BLUE WATERS.
+
+
+Schlangenbad, although a charmingly pretty spot, is not one to
+fascinate a painter. The landscape is unvaryingly green, and that
+green is too monotonous in tone for effect in a picture. Moreover, it
+lies shut in by hills, and there is no distant horizon to give the
+value of foreground and middle distance. But less critical eyes find
+much to admire in Schlangenbad. The great wide road leading to it from
+Eltville testifies to its former popularity in the days of family
+coaches and postilions. Nowadays an ugly steam tram transports the
+traveller from the Rhine to the "Serpent's Bath," and nearly poisons
+and chokes him _en route_ with the horrible smoke it emits. Half of
+the tram is open to the air at the sides, like a char-a-banc; and when
+we travelled by it a little party of Germans were enjoying an
+_Ausflug_, each man with one eye cocked on the scenery and the other
+on the look-out for a _Bier-garten_.
+
+Next to me sat a student, whose face was so slashed and gashed that it
+reminded one of "Amtshauptmann Weber" (in Reuter's delightful book),
+whose "face looked as if he had sat down upon it on a cane-bottomed
+chair." Opposite the student was a middle-aged fat "Assessor," with a
+small girl in long frilled drawers and short petticoats; and on the
+other side of the gangway were two homely-looking women in
+lead-coloured garments. As we passed through Altdorf the child drew
+her father's attention to a fat goose which waddled away as the tram
+approached. "_Sieh mal, Vater_," said she, "_die schoene Gans_."
+("Look, father, at the beautiful goose.") "O! _die Gans_," said her
+practical and prosaic parent, "_wird viel schoener sein, mein Kind,
+wenn sie gebraten ist_." ("The goose will be much more beautiful, my
+child, when it is roast.") "And has an accompaniment of sage-stuffing
+and apple-sauce," I added, to which he in all serious conviction bowed
+an assent.
+
+The valley up which we journeyed was green and pleasant. There were no
+walls or fences on either side of the road, but trees shaded the
+wayfarer, and his outlook on gardens, bean-poles, orchards, and vines
+was agreeable enough. If he chose to look further afield a silvery
+streak called the Rhine was visible, and beyond that again low blue
+hills stretched away until their cobalt and that of the sky got mixed
+on the palette of Nature. From this valley comes the famous
+Rauen-thaler wine. Most of the hills, indeed, are covered with vines,
+and the village houses showed grapes hanging from their eaves and
+peeping in at their windows.
+
+At Neudorf we paused to pick up a _Barmherzige Schwester_; and as our
+halt was exactly in front of the village shop I amused myself by
+making a mental inventory of its contents. The window--an ordinary
+one--had wooden shelves nailed across it; and on these were displayed
+soap, slates and slate-pencils, bottles of peppermint lozenges,
+hearthstone, flannel, lemon-drops, gingham, sausages, and gingerbread.
+
+The houses of the village were covered with rough stucco, and white or
+yellow-wash was swished liberally over them. Under their deep eaves an
+occasional small image of _Die Mutter Gottes_ was to be seen. Many
+were covered with grape-vines, and all had clean muslin blinds at
+their windows, and often pots of geraniums and fuchsias outside.
+Sunflowers, dahlias, and roses grew in the little patches of garden by
+the road; and all was charming and primitive, save for the discordant
+electric fittings which hung midway on the telegraph-posts, and the
+anomaly of a brand new brick _Brod-fabrik_ just outside the village.
+
+All the way up the "cane-bottomed chair" and the "Assessor" smoked
+stolidly, while their women-folk cackled like human geese. "_Wie
+schoen!_" "_Colossal!_" "_Entzueckend!_" "_Reizend!_" Nothing but
+incessant and weary adjectives! I turned with relief to the
+"Barmherzige Schwester," a prim and silent little figure in neat blue
+cotton gown, black apron, and white kerchief pinned over her shining
+hair.
+
+The tram stopped at last before the village church, and we all got
+out. To our left, as we faced the Kurhaus, straggled a long line of
+houses with deep verandahs and balconies, to our right shady walks and
+bath-houses and beautiful woods. Here and there amid the hotels and
+villas was a shop, and we knew that Schlangenbad marched with the
+times when we saw the word "_Schamponieren_" and a bunch of Empire
+curls exhibited as a modern trophy. We stopped at a shop and examined
+its wares, which, indeed, hung chiefly on the shutters. There were
+Swiss embroidered gowns and blouses to be bought, edelweiss penwipers,
+wooden paper-cutters, and clocks with chamois climbing wooden rocks.
+Nothing apparently in that shop had been "made in Germany." When we
+reached the verandah of the "Nassauer Hof" we were gladdened by bows
+from the "Assessor" and the student, who with the "cackling geese"
+were seated at a long table consuming piles of Apfelkuchen,
+Streuselkuchen, and Napfkuchen to an accompaniment of steaming coffee.
+
+As for dull, useful information Schlangenbad, of course, was known to
+the Romans, and they bathed in its waters. The Middle Ages seem to
+have neglected Spas generally, and to have been dead to the joys of a
+bath. At all events, nothing more was heard about Schlangenbad or its
+springs until in 1687 a wooden hut was put over what was known as the
+"Roemer Bad." Next the Landgraf of Hesse awoke to the virtues of its
+waters, and caused the "Oberes Kurhaus" to be built. Five years
+later, the "Nassauer Hof" was erected, and a time of prosperity and
+fashion set in for Schlangenbad. The waters have always had a great
+reputation for beautifying the skin and healing wounds and sores. It
+is on record that Frederick the First of Sweden ordered four thousand
+bottles of Schlangenbad water a year as _eau de toilette_, and another
+and still vainer sovereign three hundred a week. After this who shall
+dare say that women have the monopoly of vanity?
+
+Besides embellishing, the Schlangenbad waters are good in nervous
+disorders, rheumatism, and asthma. They are of an exquisite light-blue
+colour, and when bathing in them one's limbs have the appearance of
+marble. That the Schlangenbad people think highly of their "cure" is
+obvious. I bought a map of the district (manufactured in the place)
+and found the word Schlangenbad printed in huge letters, while the
+neighbouring town of Wiesbaden was in such small ones that it looked
+as if scarcely worth mentioning at all.
+
+
+
+
+                             LIEBENSTEIN.
+
+
+Here in the Thuringian Forest, aloof from the stir and roar of life,
+lies a Kur-Ort little known to the English world. Its waters are
+analogous to those of Schwalbach, its air is as pure, its scenery more
+beautiful, and its prices half those of the Taunus Wald. Its people
+still retain their primitive charm, unspoilt as yet by the
+potentialities of South African or American money-bags. Within easy
+reach of such interesting towns as Eisenach, Weimar, Erfurt, Gotha,
+and Coburg, it offers many alluring baits to the sightseer; yet to the
+coming and going of tourists is it altogether unaccustomed.
+Liebenstein lies in a green and beautiful valley, and the hills which
+surround it are covered for the most part with great black forests.
+Patches of wheat and rye vibrate in the winds which sweep up the
+valleys, and the fields of potatoes alternate on the low grounds with
+pasturage and orchards. Under the great limestone rocks, which near
+Liebenstein rise sheer out of the plain, nestle charming villages, and
+long avenues of poplars conduct you where you would go along the high
+roads. By the roadside a wealth of flowers is yours for the
+picking--wild thyme and asparagus and mallow, periwinkles, and the
+picturesque dock and crowfoot. The woods are starred with flowers, and
+the perfume of the pines is a revelation.
+
+The humbler houses of Liebenstein (for the greater part timber-framed
+and red-tiled) straggle up the immediate hills which surround it.
+Those of more pretention and inevitable ugliness range themselves
+decently and in order along two parallel roads. Aloof as this village
+is from "the madding crowd's ignoble strife," it has yet been touched
+to its undoing by the ruthless finger of conventionality. The
+inevitable Kur-Haus and bandstand and Anlagen are here; worst of all,
+a Trink-Halle! The Trink-Halle stands a mute and awful warning to the
+vaulting ambition which overleaps itself, since a classic temple in
+the heart of Liebenstein is surely as much out of place as a tiara
+would be on the head of the peasant woman who hands you your daily
+portion of Stahlwasser. Even the spring it originally sheltered has
+revolted against its sham marble pillars and grotesque entablature,
+and betaken itself elsewhere! Nowadays the paint and plaster are
+peeling off the columns, and its door is padlocked. Happily--although
+a melancholy warning to the educated--it remains a source of pride to
+the peasant, who loves his shabby temple as the Romans do the marble
+glories of their Vesta.
+
+Immediately behind the temple are the springs of Georg and Kasimir, at
+which stand two charming maidens ready to fill your glasses. No
+conventional and hideous hat or bonnet disfigures the neat outline of
+their heads. No travesty of Berlin or Paris fashion burlesques their
+sturdy figures. Theirs the traditional costume of the Thuringian
+female peasant--a dark skirt, and white, short-sleeved chemisette, a
+blue apron and the daintiest of white silk kerchiefs, fringed sparsely
+and brocaded abundantly with red roses. Albeit their arms are red and
+coarse with the combined effect of iron-water, hot sun, and exposure
+to the air, their faces make ample amends in their innocent,
+good-tempered comeliness. They greet you with a kindly "Guten Tag" or
+"Guten Abend," and, in the case of a lady, seldom omit the pretty
+"Gnaedige Frau," for which our "Ma'am" is but a poor correlative.
+
+Wandering through the streets of Liebenstein, one is struck by the
+intensely picturesque sights of its older and original part. The
+little houses are timber-framed and whitewashed, with deep projecting
+eaves and often many gables. Their windows are made gay outside by
+boxes filled with geraniums, nasturtiums, and fuchsias. Beneath the
+windows lie small gardens, in which bloom roses and single dahlias,
+while scarlet runners send their tendrils climbing over the palings
+which separate road and garden. Many of the little houses have
+projecting signs, on which one reads such legends as "_Tabak,
+Cigarren, Cigaretten_;" "Adolf Schmidt, _Herren kleidermacher_;"
+"_Weinhandlung Naturreinheit garantirt_;" or the very indispensable
+"_Baeckerei_." One house bears a tablet announcing to an admiring world
+that "_Herzoglich. Sachsen-Meiningen Stadtesbeamter_" lives within.
+Cocks and hens, dogs and children, make common playground of these
+narrow streets, and one sees in them pretty well every form of animal
+life represented, except horses. Now a long cart, drawn by oxen and
+well filled, toils up the hill, and not long after follows one drawn
+by a big dog. At a pump two tiny girls are busily employed filling
+stone jars, which by the beauty and purity of their outlines might
+have been Etruscan. Mothers beat mats at their cottage doors, and
+shrilly scream at their children to get out of the way of the passing
+carts; and the world in this remote village goes on pretty much as it
+does elsewhere.
+
+But the fashionable life of Liebenstein does not concern itself with
+such mean sights and bucolic sounds as oxen-carts and crowing of
+cocks. It takes its pleasure up and down the long avenues of beech
+trees which lie between the Kur-Haus and the Hotel Bellevue. It
+rallies round the bandstand, and makes great show of studying the
+programmes of the daily concert. It chatters glibly over the previous
+evening's illuminations, and describes them as "_colossal!_" and
+"_wunderschoen_." Beauty is not in vogue at Liebenstein, judging by the
+middle-class Kur guests who haunt the shade of the beech trees.
+Indeed, if anywhere in the world an Englishman might be forgiven for
+thanking God that he is not as other men are, it would be here among
+the "_Ober-Lieutenants_" and "Herr Professors" and their mates.
+Figures, both male and female, seem to be of the switchback
+order--faces rudimentary in their modelling, and uncompromising in
+their plainness, dressing of the ugliest. Yet, _Gott sei Dank!_ Hans
+thinks his Gretchen perfection, and it would never enter into innocent
+Gretchen's head, as it does mine, to bestow upon Hans the carping
+criticism of Portia upon Monsieur Le Bon: "God made him, and therefore
+let him pass for a man."
+
+
+
+
+                                TREVES
+
+
+The dominant glory of the Moselle region is Treves. No town or city
+near has the smallest affinity with its peculiar character, and all
+seem modern and prosaic compared with its well-preserved tale of
+antiquity. "Nowhere north of the Alps," we are told in weary
+iteration, "exist such magnificent Roman remains." It is generally on
+the obvious that the unimaginative English parson takes upon himself
+to comment. We listen submissively to much school-book lore as to
+"Claudius" and the "fourth century" and the "residence of Roman
+Emperors," but when it rains Bishops and Archbishops and Electors we
+fly before them. For, after all, what signifies the paltry learning of
+a dry-as-dust dominie compared with the vivid tales these grand old
+ruins tell if suffered to speak for themselves? In Treves people need
+to absorb silently, and then assimilate undisturbed by weary chatter.
+One looks at the tender turquoise sky, flecked with luminous clouds;
+at the fine horizontal distance, with its sense of breadth and
+breathing-space; at the low hills covered with vines; at the
+cornfields, and orchards, and river--and we wonder what the old Romans
+thought of it all, and reflect on the strangeness of life that a
+people so remote from our times should have lived and loved and died,
+as we live and love and die to-day. Whether Treves lie on the right or
+left bank of the Moselle is immaterial except to the tiresomely
+precise or to those who pin their faith to guide-books and such
+shallow teachers. There is a more valuable lesson to be learnt of the
+place than that of its exact situation; and no Baedeker or Murray can
+help you to appreciate Treves as quiet communings with your own
+intelligence will. If it so happens that you have none to commune
+with, then God help you--and yours!
+
+In Treves you have not far to go in search of the Romans. Their
+_magnum opus_ confronts you boldly at the very threshold of the town.
+Solid and massive and symmetrical, it stands a pregnant lesson to the
+jerry-builders of to-day. There is little affinity indeed between the
+building methods of the ancient Romans and those of their trade whose
+sorry, pitiable record exists in the Quartiere Nuovo of Rome. About
+the Porta Nigra is no trace of stucco or rubble. The huge blocks of
+which it is built stand one upon the other clean-hewn and square. No
+signs of mortar are left, but we see marks of iron or brass clamps.
+Its colour is a warm, deep red, softened here and there by streaks of
+green.
+
+The Porta Nigra has passed through strange phases since first it
+started in life as a city gate. Obviously built for purposes of
+fortification, and equipped with towers of defence, its second phase
+was an ecclesiastical one, and the "spears" were indeed turned into
+"pruning-hooks" when the bellicose propugnaculum found itself
+transformed into a church.
+
+                          "Last scene of all,
+    That ends this strange, eventful history."
+
+The gate was in 1876 finally cleared of priests and altars, and
+allowed to revert to its original form.
+
+Not far from the Porta Nigra stands the Cathedral, one of the oldest
+in Germany, archaeologically interesting, inasmuch as it owes its
+inception to the Romans. The Basilica, built by Valentinian as a court
+of law, is clearly traceable in the present cathedral, and one reads a
+strange tale of Romans and Franks in the sandstone and limestone and
+brick of its walls. Here is treasured the famous Heilige Rock, or holy
+coat worn by our Saviour when a boy. At rare intervals this garment is
+exhibited to the faithful, who come from all countries to gaze
+reverently upon it. Who that has seen can forget the last exposition
+in 1891? Never before or since has there been anything more pathetic
+than the sight of the long rows of tired, haggard, perspiring, praying
+pilgrims, who stood patiently for hours in the broiling August sun,
+moving only when permitted, and then at a snail's pace, towards their
+Mecca. Plebeian though the majority of faces were, their devotional,
+solemn, rapt expressions for the time being ennobled and beautified
+them.
+
+Treves during that time, however, was by no means the reposeful,
+dignified city it is to-day. Its buildings were defaced with flags and
+banners, its streets blocked with pilgrims, and the road leading from
+the station to the town was lined with booths, whose owners disposed
+quickly of such delicacies as Napfkuchen, Streusel-Kuchen, and
+Apfelwein. Piety and profit went everywhere hand-in-hand, and a
+roaring trade was done in rosaries and benitiers, the last made of the
+blue pottery of the country, and stamped with a representation of Leo
+XIII. against a background of Domkirche.
+
+But to be thoroughly in harmony with Treves one must be Pagan and
+Roman rather than Christian and German. Indeed, one feels in sympathy
+with the Isle of Wight farmer who after he had found a Roman villa on
+his farm gave up the bucolic and inglorious occupation of growing
+turnips and potatoes, and could talk of nothing meaner than hypocausts
+and thermae. So we, like the farmer, slight the really beautiful Early
+Gothic "Liebfrauenkirche" and roam and muse for hours about the ruins
+of the Amphitheatre, the Roman Baths, the Roman Palace and the
+Basilica.
+
+   LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, DUKE STREET,
+         STAMFORD STREET, S.E., AND GREAT WINDMILL STREET, W.
+
+
+
+
+                          TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES
+
+
+page 23--inserted a missing closing quote after 'Dank!'
+page 36--inserted a missing period after 'Burns'
+page 61--inserted a missing closing quote after 'France'
+page 82--typo fixed: changed a comma into a period after 'pavement'
+page 83--typo fixed: changed a comma into a period after 'Electors'
+page 93--spelling normalized: changed the position of semi-colon and
+         a quote after 'Cigaretten'
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A War-time Journal, Germany 1914 and
+German Travel Notes, by Harriet Julia Jephson
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