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diff --git a/22796-8.txt b/22796-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..49f3033 --- /dev/null +++ b/22796-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9551 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Impressions of America, by Tyrone Power + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Impressions of America + During the years 1833, 1834 and 1835. In Two Volumes, Volume I. + +Author: Tyrone Power + +Release Date: September 28, 2007 [EBook #22796] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IMPRESSIONS OF AMERICA *** + + + + +Produced by Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +IMPRESSIONS OF AMERICA. + +VOL. I. + +LONDON: + +PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY, + +Dorset Street, Fleet Street. + +[Illustration: SCENE BEFORE THE THEATRE AT NATCHEZ. +Drawn & Etched by A. Hervieu] + + + + +IMPRESSIONS OF AMERICA, + +DURING THE YEARS 1833, 1834, AND 1835. + + +BY TYRONE POWER, ESQ. + +IN TWO VOLUMES. + +VOL. I. + +LONDON: +RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, +Publisher in Ordinary to His Majesty. + +1836. + + + + +DEDICATION + +TO THE BRITISH PUBLIC. + + +Most persons have a Patron, from whose power and influence they have +derived support, and of whose favour they feel proud. + +I cannot claim to be of the few who are above this adventitious sort of +aid, self-raised and self-sustained; on the contrary, I have a Patron, +the only one I ever sought, but whose favour has well repaid my pains of +solicitation. + +The Patron I allude to is yourself, my Public, much courted, much +abused, and commonly accused of either being coldly neglectful or +capriciously forgetful of all sorts of merit. To me, at least, you have +proved most kind, and hitherto most constant. + +Yes, my Public, throughout my humble career, I have at all times of +doubt or despondency invariably turned to you, and never have I been +coldly regarded. I have leaned heavily upon you, yet have never found +your aid withdrawn. + +As an Actor, when managers have appeared indifferent, or critics unkind, +and my hopes have sunk within me, I have turned to your cheering +plaudits, and found in them support for the present and encouragement +for the future. + +As an Author, this appeal is founded solely upon my desire, not only to +amuse, but to make you better acquainted with an important part and +parcel of yourself, to which, although widely sundered, you are +naturally and morally allied, and of which, as emanating from yourself, +and in no way degenerate, you ought to feel very proud. + +If happily I succeed in effecting this--if I dissipate one common +error, eradicate one vulgar prejudice, or kindle one kindly feeling +between you and the people of whom I write, I shall feel that, by so +doing, I have at length made you some return for the high favour with +which you have repaid my efforts to please you. + +In presenting this offering to you, I am aware, at this the ninth hour, +that it abounds in errors; and I would furnish a copious list of errata +from each sheet, if I thought you would find patience to compare them. +But you also know how my time has been employed since my return to you. +Whilst you have nightly laughed with me at the playhouse, I have nightly +had the devil[1] waiting for a contribution at home, and he is an imp +importunate and insatiable. To soothe him, I have worked whilst you have +slept. + +I do not tell this to deprecate the censure my crude publication merits, +but only to excuse the impertinence of dedicating it to you. +Nevertheless, being the best commodity I have to lay at your feet, I beg +you to accept it, with the very sincere declaration that I am, my only +Patron and gentle Public, + + Your devoted, + Humble servant, + TYRONE POWER. + +_Bolton Street, May Fair,_ + _Dec. 23rd, 1835._ + + +FOOTNOTE: + +[1] _i.e._ Printer's devil! + + + + +PREFACE. + + +Although I have hitherto forborne all preface or dedication on +exhibiting my small ware to the public, concluding that the less I said +about the matter the better, and from having some scruples about tacking +any lady's or gentleman's name to bantlings from which I had withheld my +own; yet, in the present case, do I consider myself bound, in a like +spirit of honesty, to provide this book with a few words descriptive of +its quality, lest my Readers, being disappointed, may charge me with +having deluded them under false "Impressions." + +I seek, then, to describe America as I saw it,--a mighty country, in the +enjoyment of youth and health, and possessing ample room and time for +the growth, which a few escapades incident to inexperience and high +blood may retard, but cannot prevent. Heaven has written its destinies +in the gigantic dimensions allotted to it, and it is not in the power of +earth to change the record. + +I seek to describe its people as I saw them,--clear-headed, energetic, +frank, and hospitable; a community suited to, and labouring for, their +country's advancement, rather than for their own present comfort. This +is and will be their lot for probably another generation. + +To those, then, who seek scandalous innuendos against, or imaginary +conversations with, the fair, the brave, and the wise amongst the +daughters and sons of America, I say, Read not at all; since herein, +though something of mankind, there is little of any man, woman, or +child, of the thousands with whom I have reciprocated hospitality and +held kind communion. + +On the other hand, it can be objected that I set out by giving +evidences of a partiality which may cause my judgment to be questioned. + +Frankly do I avow this fault, and in my justification have but to add, +that the person who, for two years, could be in constant intercourse +with a people, to the increase of his fortune, the improvement of his +health, and the enlargement of all that is good in his mind, yet feel no +partiality in their favour, I pity for coldness more than envy for +philosophy. + +But whilst I am by nature incapable of repaying kindness by aspersion, I +feel that I am no less above the meanness of attempting a return in that +base coin--flattery; that which I saw I say, and as _I_ saw it. I blame +none of my predecessors for their general views, but claim the right of +differing from them wherever I think fit; and if my account of things +most on the surface even, should sometimes appear opposite to theirs, I +would not, by this, desire to impeach their veracity, since the changes +working in society are as rapid, though not quite so apparent, as those +operating on the face of these vast countries, whose probable destinies +do in truth render almost ridiculous the opinions and speculations of +even the sagest of the pigmies that have bustled over their varied +surface. + + + + +CONTENTS + +OF + +THE FIRST VOLUME. + + Page +EUROPE 1 +The Eve of Sailing _ib._ +Sailing Day 4 +The Europe Packet 7 +The Europe continued.--Change of Affairs. 21 +Journal at Sea 28 +Land, ho! 34 +Port 39 +NEW YORK 47 +First Impressions of the City _ib._ +A Bivouac 49 +Cato's! 58 +Theatre 60 +PHILADELPHIA 74 +The Theatres.--Walnut and Chestnut. 87 +JOURNEY TO BOSTON 90 +The East River.--Hurl-Gate.--The Sound.--Point + Judith.--Newport Harbour.--Providence. _ib._ +BOSTON 101 +State Prison 114 +Tremont Hotel 117 +The Tremont Theatre 123 +JOURNAL 127 +BALTIMORE 135 +Baltimore.--Journal continued. 140 +The Temperance House 145 +Journal 153 +Journal continued.--New Year's Day in New York. 166 +The Dutch and Irish Colonies of Pennsylvania. 181 +THE STEAM-BOAT 188 +Delaware.--Newcastle.--Railroad.--French-Town.--Elk + River.--North Point.--Bay of Chesapeake.--Baltimore. _ib._ +WASHINGTON 200 +Theatre, Washington 210 +Pierce's Garden 215 +The Garden, Poetical and Political 221 +The Falls of the Potomac 225 +Impressions of Washington Society, public and private 240 +Impressions of Alexandria.--A blank day. 246 +The Fancy Ball 252 +LIONS OF WASHINGTON 260 +The Indian Cabinet.--House of Legislature.--Senate.-- + Ladies.--Senators.--President. _ib._ +BOSTON 284 +Journey across the Alleghany Mountains.--Pittsburg. _ib._ +PITTSBURG 309 +THE HUDSON 341 +ALBANY 347 +JOURNEY TO COOPER'S TOWN.--OTSEGO LAKE 361 +TRENTON FALLS 369 +BUFFALO 386 +NIAGARA 391 +ERIE CANAL 412 +Packet-boat.--Heat.--Cedar Swamp, Long Swamp, +and Musquito Swamp.--Utica. _ib._ +LITTLE FALLS 420 +Saratoga.--Ballston.--Albany.--Mountain-House.-- + Catskill.--Hyde Park.--Lynn. _ib._ + + + + +IMPRESSIONS OF AMERICA. + + + + +EUROPE. + + +THE EVE OF SAILING. + + + In youth's wild days, it cannot but be pleasant + This idle roaming round and round the world, + With wildfire spirits and heart disengaged. + _Anster's Faustus._ + + +When one first contemplates a voyage of many thousand miles, attended +with long absence, loss of old associates, together with all the charms +of home, country, and friends, often too lightly estimated whilst +possessed, but always sorely missed when no longer within call; one is +yet, and this through no lack of sensibility, apt to regard the +sacrifice about to be made to duty as sufficiently light, and, with the +aid of manhood and a little philosophy, easy of endurance. The very +task, which a resolution of this grave nature necessarily imposes, of +making as little of the matter as possible to those dear ones who yield +up their fears, and subdue their strong affections, in obedience to your +judgment, serves for a time the double purpose of hoodwinking oneself as +well as blinding those on whom we seek to practise this kind imposition. +Next comes the bustle of getting ready, assisted and cheered by the +redoubled attentions of all who love, or feel an interest in one's +fortunes. Amidst the excitement, then, of these various feelings, the +deep-seated throb of natural apprehension, or home regret, if even felt, +struggling for expression, is checked or smothered in the loud note of +preparation. The day of departure is fixed at length, it is true; but +then it is not yet come: even when contemplating its near approach, one +feels wondrous firm and most stoically resolved: at last, however, come +it does; and now our chief friend Philosophy, like many other friends, +is found most weak when most needed. In vain do we invoke his approved +maxims, hitherto so glibly dealt out to silence all gainsayers; yet now, +they are either found inapt or are forgotten wholly, until, after a +paltry show of defence, braggart Philosophy fairly takes to his heels, +and leaves us abandoned to the will of old mother Nature. Now, indeed, +arrives the tug; and I, for my part, pity the man who, however savagely +resolute, does not feel and own her power. The adieus of those one loves +are, at best,--that is, for the shortest absence,--sufficiently +unpleasant; but when there lie years, and, to the eye of affection, +dangers, in the way of the next meeting, as the old Scotch ballad has +it, "O but it is sair to part!" I should, I confess, were I free to +choose, prefer the ignominy of cowardly flight, to the greatest triumph +firmness ever yet achieved, and be constrained to hear and respond to +that last long "good-b'ye!" + +As I honestly own that, for various good reasons, I set out with the +intention of keeping such a close record of my feelings and doings as my +errant habits might permit, with the premeditated design also of giving +them to that public which from the beginning had decided that I should +do so, I concluded there was nothing like an early start; and finding +these thoughts preface, or rather commence, my journal, so do I give +them like precedence here. + + + + +SAILING DAY. + + + Liverpool, Tuesday, July 16th, 1833. + + +I am not usually very particular about dates; but, as there is an odd +coincidence connected with the 16th, I desire to note it. On this day, +then, about 3 P.M. I was rumbled from Bold-street down to St. George's +Dock, accompanied by a few friends, who were resolute to extend their +kindness to the latest limit time and tide, those unyielding agents, +might allow. + +Arrived at the ship's side, I found a number of my own poor countrymen, +_agricultural speculators_, filling up a leisure moment before seeking +harvest, in seeing "Who in the world was going to America, all that +way," with which country there are now few of the humbler class of Irish +but have some intimate associations. Disposing amongst _the boys_ the +few shillings I had left in my pocket, I jumped on board the packet-ship +Europe, without cross or coin, saving only a couple of luck-pennies, the +one an American gold eagle, the present of an amiable gentlewoman; the +other a crooked sixpence, suspended by a crimson ribbon, the offering of +a fair "maid of the inn," given to me on the very eve of sailing-day +with many kind wishes, all of which have been realized. + +The wind had been all the morning, and was still, away from the +south-west; that is, right into the harbour; and I had heard many doubts +expressed whether or not we should sail at all before night tide; doubts +which, I am almost ashamed to confess, did not offend my ears so very +much, considering my avowed impatience to be gone; nay, I do further +admit having observed carelessly that I would as soon we did not sail +until night tide, though wherefore I should thus have sought to keep +chords on the stretch already too painfully braced, I leave to the wise +to resolve. + +Once on board, however, doubt was at an end; since the task of warping +out from the tier was already commenced, and the noisy steamer might be +heard bellowing and fuming, impatient of delay, from where she awaited +us without the pier. We were moored inside several other ships; and the +dock being quite full of craft, to the unpractised eye there appeared no +possibility of winning a passage without doing or sustaining damage. +However, what with warps and checks, careful and well-timed hauling, and +ready backing, the gallant-looking Europe was quickly and safely handed +over to the turbid waters of the Mersey without suffering a rub on her +bright sides. + +The steamer now took us in tow, and in a few minutes the busy docks and +crowded pier-heads had passed away. Our companion vessels at parting +were three only--a large private Indiaman, (the Albion,) a smaller ship +for the coast of Africa, and a little gaily-painted Irish schooner +called the Shamrock. These, it appeared, were dependent upon their own +resources, and were soon left behind contending hardily with a strong +beating wind; whilst the Europe, with yards pointed and sails closely +furled, steadily and swiftly followed in the wake of the George the +Fourth, looking like a noble giant led captive by some sooty dwarf. The +Black Rock was soon gained, Crosby and its pretty cottages showed dimly +distant; the mountains of Wales opened grandly forth before us; and, +after one last long look, I dived to my state-room, partly to busy +myself with seeing all my traps arranged and set in trim for sea, and +partly to be alone. + + + + +THE EUROPE PACKET. + + + "This goodly ship our palace is, + Our heritage the sea." + + +It will doubtless appear to many who shall win their way thus far into +this book, a work of impertinent supererogation to describe at large an +American packet-ship, together with the mode of living on board a +regular _Liner_, considering that there are some three or four of these +departing every week from Liverpool, London, and Havre, and at this same +point I can fancy some hot fellow, who has performed his twentieth trip, +here toss by my unoffending volume, with "Devil take the chap! does he +think he knows about all this better than _us_?" + +But, hold hard, my fiery friend, whilst I remind your worship that there +are some thousands of the lieges out of the countless numbers who will +be our readers, who, insular though they be, and well used to ships, +have yet no conception of these wonders of the water; that is, provided +the "Europe" is to be taken as a true sample of the service she belongs +to: not to mention that what was new and notable to me, who have +voyaged much, can hardly fail to interest some gentlemen "who live at +home at ease." + +Let, then, the reader who knows what a "between-decks" is, step below +with me, and there picture to himself a room forty feet long, not taking +in the deep transom, by sixteen in breadth, having on either hand a +range of inclosed state-rooms about eight feet square, each with its own +door and window, of bird's-eye maple curiously inlaid with variously +grained wood, polished as glass. The upper part of the door and the +whole of the side window are latticed; so that on both being closed, the +occupant is hidden, yet the air admitted freely. + +Each of these state-rooms is furnished with a washhand stand, containing +a double service, a chest of drawers, with handles of cut glass, a shelf +or two for books, &c. and a brace of berths or bed-places of ample +dimensions, well appointed with mattress and linen, white as ever lassie +lifted off the sunny side of a brae, at whose foot brawled the burn to +which her labour owed its freshness. + +Now, although each room is fitted up for two insides, you may +nevertheless conserve your individuality,--the which I recommend,--at +the cost of an additional half-fare, or, in all, about fifty-five pounds +sterling. + +Being here installed, then, _solus_, you will be roused from your sound +night's sleep in the morning at eight bells, or eight o'clock A.M., by +the tinkling of a shrewish-sounding hand-bell, which says, as plainly as +ever the chimes of Bow hailed Whittington lord mayor of London, "Arise, +and shave, and make your toilet, and prepare to come forth; for the cow +is milking, and the kettle is screeching, and the hot rolls beginning to +get over-brown." + +Upon this welcome summons, if you are not sea-sick, which Heaven forbid! +or insensible to the goods here by the gods provided for you, you will +bounce or creep out of your crib, according as the waves and your +agility may determine; and popping your head out of window, loudly bawl +"Thomas!" or plain "Tom!" or "Steward!" according to the terms of +friendship and familiarity on which you may stand with this dignitary, +who, by the way, has a vote on board worth canvassing for;--I say bawl +out, because, firstly, your mincing and Clarendon-like lisp of "Waiter!" +would not be heard by one used to listen to the rush of the tempest and +the shriek of the scourged Atlantic; also, for that your stirring call +may remind some wretched skulker of a circumstance which he is miserably +dozing out of remembrance, viz. that breakfast is under weigh. "Yes, +sir!" is the prompt response from the larboard corner of the cabin, +where the steward and his gang are installed with all their appointment +of glass and crockery ranged neatly within reach. Your next call will +be, "Bring me a bottle of Saratoga water"--a chalybeate, cool and brisk +on the palate as soda water, a commendable morning draught, and such a +trumpet to appetite!--well, having swallowed of this, your pint or so, +dress, mount the deck, and inquire "how she heads," and what she has +done during the long hours of night whilst you lay sleeping like a +sea-bird in your wave-borne nest. + +You next take a look over the weather quarter, sweep the horizon +knowingly with your best eye, and after, walk forward towards the galley +or kitchen, pricking your ears at certain sputtering and hissing sounds, +the which, backed up by sundry savoury sniffs caught under the tack of +the main-sail, give you foretaste of broiled ham, spitch-cock, eggs, +frizzled bacon, and mutton cutlets. + +One by one your messmates tumble up the companion, or cabin-stair; some +hungry and blooming as sound stomachs and clear consciences can make +them, others showing a _leetle_ blue and bilious-like; but each and all +resolute to essay the onslaught, which the train of polished covers, +making rapid transit from the caboose down the steward's hatchway, +proclaim about to begin. + +Tinkle, tinkle, ting! again sounds the steward's bell; and, without any +pauses of ceremony, down dive the _convives_, turning _en qûe_ the foot +of the stair, some to windward, others to leeward, but all facing right +aft--a double game of "follow my leader." + +"Oh! 'tis a goodly sight to see," the show which here presents +itself;--covers of all sizes glisten under the flickering rays of the +morning sun, stealing in through the open deck-light, and dancing about +to the heave of the ship over a well-laid cloth flanked by ready plates +and the weapons of attack. + +The signal is made, the covers drawn; and, appetite or no appetite, here +is temptation for all. If the incipient voyager will benefit by my +experience, as he might well have done by my example had we been happy +enough to have possessed his amiable society on board the Europe, he +will develope his main battle against the mutton chops _au naturel_; +then gossip over a slice of broiled _Virginy_ ham, with an egg or twain, +whilst his souchong is getting pleasantly cool; then, having emptied his +cup, flirt with a couple of delicate morsels raised from the thin part +of a salted shad-fish, the which shad, for richness and flavour is +surpassing. + +To his second cup he will dedicate the upper crust of a well-baked roll +with cold butter; and, after having duly paused a while, choose between +Cognac and Schiedam for a _chasse_. If he will yet walk with me, I say +unhesitatingly, try Schiedam, in the absence, reverently be it spoken, +of Isla or Innishowen. + +Now, my pupil, if this breakfast would, which it could not fail to do, +raise the bastard appetite of your close-curtained, feather-bedded +coal-smoked, snivelling in-dweller of the city, judge of the influence +it must exercise over a child of ocean, who inhales the breath of heaven +freshly as generated beneath the blue sky that vaults his watery world, +pure, uncorrupted, untainted by touch of anything more earthly. + +Why, man, it is worth a life of ordinary vegetation to be stirred but +for once by the sensations, such a morning as I draw from, in such a +place, create; and to those who sagely shake the head and doubt, if any +such cavillers there be, I say, "Pay your just debts; make your tenants +easy, that their prayers may be in your sails; forgive your enemies, +kiss your wife, draw up and add in her favour a codicil to your +testament; and your duties being thus fulfilled, with a clean heart, +backed by forty-eight clean shirts, go and try; and if you 'fall not' of +my advice before you again embrace your mother country, curse Fortune +for a perverse wench, and set your humble servant down for false +counsel." + +Leaving you now, my pupil, to write, to read, to practise shooting with +ball at a bottle swinging from some outstanding spar, or to follow +whatever pursuit most engages your fancy, for the space of some four +hours, we will just name an intermediate and somewhat tempting meal, +ycleped luncheon, chiefly indeed for the purpose of advising you to +eschew it as you value unimpaired digestion, and would appreciate a +four o'clock dinner. If, however, you are obstinately self-willed, and +choose to obey a villanous unappeasable appetite, in place of following +my wholesome advice, I pray you, at least, not to sit down knife in +hand, as I have noted "some shameless creatures do;" but lift a piece of +pilot biscuit, request some kind soul to shave the under side of the +corned round for you, then desiring the steward to follow with a tumbler +of Guiness's porter, fly the place and seek the deck. + +Shuffle-board, chess, and backgammon, with exercise and pleasant +converse, will while away the intervening hours so quickly, that, if you +do not keep a bright look-out, you will be surprised by the dinner-bell +before you think of your toilet, which, if a luxury to you on shore, +will be thrice welcome at sea, besides being a pleasant way of disposing +of twenty minutes; not to mention the ladies, who, at all times sensibly +alive to any neglect in us, become doubly so here, where there is so +much to remind them that they are not ruling in their own pretty +drawing-rooms, though, as the old song has it, + + + "Queens they be + On the boundless sea," + + +as indeed they are, and ought to be, everywhere. + +_Mem._--Do not trust your appetite to forewarn you of approaching +dinner, since I have been more than once deceived by over-confidence in +that quarter: truth is, you have the cry of "wolf" from that insatiable +look-out so early and so often, that you learn after a time to treat the +call as impertinent and troublesome, and so strive to cut it until the +cutting moment really and unexpectedly comes upon you. + +I have been so elaborate upon the head of breakfast, which meal, I +freely confess to be my foible, that I feel as though any description of +dinner would now come comparatively weak; besides, to speak verily, one +might, with time and prudent choice, get as good a dinner, perhaps, +a-shore in favoured countries: but for a breakfast, pho! the thing is +beyond reach, away from the stores of a well-regulated Yankee packet. I +challenge Europe, including Scotland, with all her _Finnanhaddies_, +_herrin's_, cakes, and preserves, to back her. + +Suffice it then to say, that here is a dinner of three courses, with +pastry and various _confitures_ which would not shame Gunter; and, for +_boisson_, sherry, madeira, hock, and claret, with port for those who +indulge in strong potations, and three or four times a week well-iced +champagne. + +A variety of dried fruits compose the dessert, since, although they +sometimes raise small salad, I feel bound to admit that they have not +yet attained to the comfort of a pinery on board: nor, let me add, did I +see finger-glasses in use; and how persons get on who have never dined +without them, I cannot guess, this not being my case, since luckily, +even in England, I had sometimes roughed it in very good society without +these necessaries. Once seated to dinner, there you remain, and imbibe +until discretion bids you hold your hand, for other check have you none, +cellar and servants remaining at your disposal. + +After a walk on deck, and a cup of tea or coffee, you form your party +for whist or some round game, or join the ladies in their _boudoir_, +which I ought to have mentioned before as leading out of the great room +forward, being a pretty square apartment, fitted up with sofas, mirrors, +loo-table, and other little elegancies which ladies love to look upon +and be surrounded by. _Entre nous_, between the lights this snuggery +affords tolerable convenience for a little flirtation, if you are lucky +enough to get one up;--this broken off, you play your play, and at the +conclusion of your rubber of whist, or _parti d'ecarté_, you prepare for +bed,--early hours forming here one of those sanitary laws which the wise +feel little inclined to impinge. + +Now I am quite well aware that on the head of night-caps every biped has +his own fancy, and most of the genus I also know to be infernally +pig-pated on this seemingly simple point; such incurables I abandon, to +supper, porter, night-mare, and all the other nameless horrors that +rouse them to avenge an ill-used stomach; but to the willing ear and +ductile mind I whisper again, "try mine." _Imprimis_--one cigar, one +tumbler of weak Hollands' grog, better named swizzle, all to be disposed +of in pleasant company during some half-hour's walk on deck; when, if +you should sometimes, as I hope you often may, fall in with a soft downy +south-west breeze, a clear deep-blue sky over head, gemmed full with +little stars, and fringed about, down into the watery round, by a broad +border of jet-black cloud, against which each curling wave appears to +break, and the goodly ship seems as though delving through a lake of +quick-silver--when the track of the swift porpoises show like long +furrows of dazzling flame, and over the whirling eddies of the keel's +deep wake is seen to hover a strange unearthly light,--a thin bluish, +devilish, vaporous haze, which, in the silent watch of night, maketh the +lonely gazer's flesh to creep, and conjures through the brain every wild +legend whispered of the "vasty deep," fascinating the eyes, and holding +them with spell-like power, until--until what?--why, until a sharp +twitch on the lip from the fire of the close-burned cigar we recommended +awakens you to a due sense of such a "lame and most impotent +conclusion." + +Jump off the spare spar on which you have been perched whilst gazing so +dreamily over the ship's quarter, give the last half of your grog to the +old lad at the wheel, peep in on the compass, find she heads about +west-north-west, and, well satisfied, descend the stair. The steward +lights the waxen taper which fixes on a branch before your glass; when, +having performed such ceremonies as you delight in, thank God and sleep: +and thus ends the chapter of a day. + +And, gentle pupil, if you would learn yet more especially to enjoy all +this, which I have for your benefit somewhat _lengthily_ detailed, give +directions to the steward to rouse you at deck-washing; that is, about +six A.M.; put on drawers and jacket of fine cotton, and, sunshine or +cloud, calm or squall, run on deck, leave your _robe de chambre_ in the +round-house, and slide down into the lee gangway, where, according to +previous contract, you see a grim-looking seven-foot seaman--pick out +the tallest--waiting for you with a couple of buckets of sea-water, one +held ready in his claw, with a half-grin upon his puckered phiz as he +inwardly blesses the simplicity of the landsman who turns out of his +hammock in the morning-watch to be soused like the captain's turtle in +cold salt water; and i' faith! startlingly cold it gets when on the +Banks, even in July, especially if within the influence of an ice-berg +or twain: think not, however, of this, the infliction is light in +comparison with the after enjoyment. + +Being seated in the lee-scuppers, give the word; up goes the bucket, and +wush! down pours the deluge on your oil-capped crown. "Hah!" you cry +involuntarily, for the flesh will quiver, &c. You then compress your +lips a little closer, whilst Jack's giggle expands into a broad grin, +and in a steadier stream descends the second shower; which, having +abided to the last drop, away you scurry along the wet deck, that is, +always provided you avoid a fall or two by the way, into the +round-house, on gown, and down to your little den; where a coarse towel, +and a couple of flesh-brushes smartly applied for five minutes, will +produce such a circulation throughout your inward man, that, like bold +Waterton, you feel as though you could back an alligator, take the +sea-serpent by the beard, or kick a noisy steamboat fairly out of water. + +I have, since I am at confession, sometimes in very bad weather been +tempted into bed after this ablution, when such an hour's nap awaits +one! But this is a luxury Xerxes would have given a Satrapie to have +tasted, and not to be indulged in over-often, lest it lead to +effeminacy, which is as far removed from comfort as is sensuality from +pleasure. + +I have often heard objected to these fine ships the discomfort and +difficulty attending toilet; but, for my own part, I did not discover +these. Having a state-room, and possessed of the same appliances, with +perhaps a little more trouble, a man may be as scrupulously nice as in +any other dressing-room; provided always he be not prostrated by that +unsparing nausea, sea-sickness; from the which I wish you, gentle +reader, the full exemption I enjoy, and so commend you to repose. + + + + +THE EUROPE CONTINUED.--CHANGE OF AFFAIRS. + + + "Life's like a ship in constant motion: + Sometimes smooth, and sometimes rough."--_Song._ + + +"Oh! the pleasures of a summer trip across the Atlantic!" Thus sung and +chorused my good friends one and all; some from experience, most from +hearsay, but ever in unison. + +"You'll have quite a party of pleasure," says one. "The only thing to be +dreaded will be the _ennui_ arising out of long calms, gentle breezes, +eternal sunshine by day and moonlight by night," says another. + +One would have fancied, according to their account, that sun and moon +alternated like buckets in a well, one up, the other down, with the +exception that both were to be always at full. + +So constant, however, were these remarks about heat, and sun, and summer +air, that I packed up every article of clothing heavier than duck or +cachmere; nay, had not some worthy matter-of-fact soul let slip a stray +hint about ice and sleighing parties in December, I verily believe, +hating as I do all superfluous baggage, I should have left my greatcoats +to the moth and fog of Old England. + +But whew! from such _airs_ the Lord preserve me!--whilst at the tail of +our honest, grimy, grumbling steamer, cutting through the Mersey or +along the coast of Wales, we were, I admit, tolerably sunned and warm +enough, though not even here bedazzled or over-heated; but on the second +morning out, what a change! + +I came on deck just before six A.M. to take my shower-bath; the wind was +about west by south, blowing a brisk gale, the ship under double-reefed +topsails, with top-gallant sails set over them, making all smoke +again--on one hand lay the Isle of Rathlin, with the north coast of +Ireland, bleak and bare; on the other, the Mull of Kyntyre, with a tide +of its own rushing by like a mill-race, and over it the cloudy crest of +Isla, looming through the flitting vapours, cold, dark, and +hard-visaged, as though no drop of whisky had ever been brewed therein. +One could not recognise the misty monster, thus grimly shadowed forth, +to be the parent of that glorious sunny spirit. + +We had full time afforded to become well acquainted with the changing +aspects of these and the other localities hereabouts, for we had to +battle it with their ally the wind, and with their waters, for full +sixty hours; and although we at length fought our course seaward, it was +to feel that such another victory would be anything but serviceable to +the gallant ship. + +Oh that infernal Rathlin! I shall not soon forget it; it is a spot I +always held in ill odour ever since Miss Porter's "Scottish Chiefs" +taught my unsophisticated youth to weep over the wrongs of Wallace +wight. Now, although I abominate the place more, I have learned to +compassionate her ill-starred hero less, since to have been carried +southward through "merrie England" from such a place of exile, albeit +the journey ended in hanging, was yet a deliverance especially to be +rejoiced in. + +We had a near view of the natives too, one day, trying to catch us in a +whale-boat, whilst we were hugging the land sculking from the strength +of the tide of flood: but, thank Heaven! they missed taking us as we +went about on the opposite tack, the which I shall ever consider a +providential escape, although at the time, a heedless confidence in our +numbers led Captain Maxwell to throw them the end of a rope. They failed +to lay hold on it, however, and away we dashed by them like a whirlwind; +whilst the disappointed men gesticulating fiercely, with their red +"fell o' hair" blowing to the four corners of the earth, and their wild +eyes and ogre mouths agape, yelled forth a volley of strange sounds, +soon drowned by the louder roar of these summer waves. This was happily +the only danger we incurred from the natives; we saw no more of them,[2] +and right glad were all-hands when the last glimpse of the Hebrides, or +Western Isles, as they are called in their charts, faded away in their +mist. + +After this date one heavy blow succeeded another until the first of +August, with seldom sun enough to afford an observation: yet it mattered +not; like sea-birds we "rode and slept," for the excellence of the boat, +and the way in which she was handled, was evident enough to inspire even +the nervousness of inexperience with confidence; and the efficiency of +our domestic arrangements bade defiance to the anger of the +elements;--uninfluenced by their frowns as by their smiles, on went the +work, and meal succeeded meal with faultless regularity. + +On the second of August we passed within the immediate atmosphere of a +huge iceberg. We had for some time previous been enveloped in fog, which +suddenly lifting, showed us this isle of ice, and two other smaller +ones. + +The main island, by which we were most attracted, lay about a quarter of +a mile to leeward, of dazzling whiteness, and picturesque of form, +having at one end a lofty cone-shaped mountain, and at the other an +angular bold mound, crowned by what we decided to be an extensive Gothic +fortalice or castle, not unworthy the Ice-king himself if bent on a +summer trip round the gulf stream: between these promontories lay a deep +valley thickly tenanted by tribes of the white gull. + +Three sides of Castle-hill were regularly scarped, the fourth +communicated by a neatly kept slope with the valley, and along this +radiated a number of well-trodden paths, all uniting at the castle gate, +at once giving evidence of considerable population, and great +hospitality on the part of the worthy castellan. + +The position of these islands was unusual, and their appearance +occasioned a little surprise, although the fall of the thermometer, and +the change in the temperature of the water, had led Captain Maxwell, +some hours before we met them, to decide upon their vicinity. + +On the banks of Newfoundland they are common at this season of the year, +and form, indeed, the danger most to be dreaded of the voyage; since, if +the weather should prove thick, and the ice swim deep, scarce showing +above the surface, as is commonly the case, a ship going quickly through +the water may strike before any measures can be taken to avoid the +encounter. + +A fine packet, the Liverpool, but nine days out, on her first trip was +totally lost on one of these in the summer of 1822; and this very year +our captain coasted to the southward for seventy miles along the edge of +a field of ice, in which he had previously been locked-up for fifty +hours, till released by a lucky shift of wind. On this occasion he had +one on board whose experience among ice had been well tested, and was +about to be yet again tried; for Lieutenant Back was here on his +perilous adventure in quest of the long lost Captain Ross and his crew. + +For the succeeding sixteen or seventeen days of our voyage the weather +was generally fine. Upon the western edge of the Banks we had a few +days' calm, which taking advantage of, I turned my morning shower-bath +into a plunge from the bowsprit, and had a delicious swim round the +ship. The passengers, however, got wind of my fun, and in obedience to +the kindly meant remonstrances of one or two of them, I forbore a +pleasure which never occurred to me to be perilous, for I have practised +it in many parts of the ocean, always taking care that there was no way +upon the ship. + +We had no casualties except amongst the pigs, sheep, and poultry; and as +yet no great loss of spars, indeed in all our blows, we only sprung a +main-topsail yard, carried away a fore-topmast, and made a few +stu'n-sail booms,--for the latter, we had very little use, not having +the wind abaft the beam over five days, all counted, out of a passage of +thirty-five; and how it was accomplished in the time under the +circumstances, is yet to me a matter of some wonderment. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[2] To homeward-bound ships these visits of the _Rathlineans_, often +prove sufficiently welcome, as they generally provide themselves with a +cargo of ancient, fish-like milk, and fine potatoes. The Europe having +an excellent dairy and a poultry-yard of her own, stood in no need of +their supplies. + + + + +JOURNAL AT SEA. + + +This is usually a very monotonous task to the journalist, and can hardly +fail of soon becoming tiresome to the reader, since a voyage away from +the land affords but little to record; still, as it is my intention +occasionally to refer to this current report of my _Impressions_ and +every-day-doings, I may as well transcribe literally a page or two +illustrative of every-day life in this, our "Europe." + +_July 31st._--Sixteen days out this afternoon; during which time, with +but forty-four hours that we could fairly lay our course, the good ship +has knocked off forty degrees of westing, a prodigious slant under the +circumstances. The last two days up to meridian, we have run ten degrees +of longitude and two of latitude. + +_Thursday, August 1st._--Going about seven knots, heading west by north; +all well and mighty agreeable. Rifle-shooting and backgammon the great +antagonists of time before dinner--whist after. Various wagers are daily +made against time, as to the length of our passage, as well as for or +against certain ships that preceded or were to follow us. Most persons +have named some date for our arrival at New York, and backed it for more +or less; finding that these days were selected more in accordance with +the desires of the betters than their judgment, I selected an outsider, +and took the longest date named for my day, August 20th. The odds +fluctuate daily in the market, according to the view the knowing ones +take of the weather: these bets form a subject of interest and banter +which daily rises in importance. + +_Wednesday, 7th._--About meridian carried away our main-topsail yard, +whilst two hands were employed rigging in the studding-sail boom; one +fell into the top, and the other caught hold of the rigging, receiving +much fright but small damage. Had they fallen on the deck or over-board, +why their chance would have been exceeding small. There surely is "a +sweet little cherub that sits up aloft," &c. or these careless rogues +could not escape so often scot-free. + +To-day we have a rattling north-easter with sunshine: and the sea, which +yesterday was wild, dreary, and dark, is now beaming and light as a +beauty at a birth-day ball; and as radiant, for it sparkles in diamonds +of its own. + +All hands in high spirits, the ship the favourite for odds; Time gone +back sadly; the 13th inst. named for very long odds; I offered eight to +one against it, and was taken up at a word. Made two or three entries in +my book after dinner; against the 20th, my day; take all that offers, +but have made a _leetle_ hedge on the 18th by way of a break-water. + +_Saturday, 9th._--A very heavy gale from north-west, a rare occurrence +at this season; it stuck to us for fifty hours, hauling gradually round +to the south'ard. No business done to-day; 'change deserted; not a +time-bargain to be had for love or money; most of the bulls in bed. + +_Tuesday, 13th._--One of the most lovely days possible: all the morning +we have been observing a large ship right a-head, on which we draw +rapidly, though a stern chase is proverbially a long chase. The alley +all alive, books and pencils in great demand: odds offered freely that +this ship is the Tallahassie, Captain Glover, which sailed from +Liverpool on the morning of the day we left; but owing to our taking the +north channel, whilst she pursued the south, had thus gotten a decided +pull upon us, besides being a very fine ship. Consultations frequent, as +we neared, between the mate and the backers of the Tallahassie, +adjournments to the top-gallant forecastle constant; every spy-glass in +requisition. + +We drew near; the odds rose in favour of this being the ship in +question--she was a large ship, square-built and long, so was +Tallahassie--she was flush deck, so was Tallahassie--had stump-royal +masts, and a storm-house abaft, so had Tallahassie, hurrah! Nearer we +came, less ardour amongst the backers of Tal.--nearer still, they are +all silent; the alley is deserted for the forecastle--a straggler now +comes aft, with a sneaking offer of a hedge: no takers. + +One of the opposite side's scouts next comes aft. "This can't be the +Tallahassie--this ship has no copper, Tallahassie had; she has a white +line over her bright side, Tallahassie had not--her top-rail is white, +and the yards tipped with the same colour, the Tallahassie's were +black.--In short, it could not be the Tallahassie, as any one with half +an eye might have seen from the first, and might see now." + +The latter part of the proposition was already demonstrated, for we were +by this time right a-beam; the former might have been disputed, +although it certainly was not the Tallahassie. + +Trifles like this were all-sufficient occupation for the day, and served +as subjects of conversation after. On this occasion we had for nearly +the first time a complete muster of our crew, the exceeding fineness of +the day brought out even our sick, and there they lounged about in the +sun, like weary birds plumeing their ruffled feathers. + +_Sunday, 18th._--Wind north-west; weather fine. We are now within one +hundred and sixty miles of our port. Betting-market a little anxious, +but a good deal of business doing in a quiet way; my odds looking well, +but to-morrow, the 19th, by far the favourite, Captain Maxwell himself +indeed, considering it a hollow thing. Got a notion in my head, however, +in favour of my day, and accordingly took the odds; resolute to abide by +the 20th, and either "mak' a spune or spoil a horn." + +All hands well and in motion; the crew busily employed getting the +sea-service off the rigging, and setting it all up in holiday order. The +mate is peering about jealously on all sides, eyeing his ship as a +mother would a beauty dressing for her first drawing-room, and to the +full as anxious about her appearance. + +_Monday, 19th._--In the middle watch had a heavy squall, and carried +away our foretop-gallant mast. At nine o'clock, A.M. made the American +shore off Jersey, to the southward of Barney Gat. Wind light, no +betting, but anxious speculations on the probability of our getting +within Sandy Hook this day. Tuesday a hollow thing, feel "cock +sure:"--about noon, wind died away; and, right enough, it was not until + +_Tuesday, August 20th_, that at three o'clock, A.M. I was called on deck +to look upon the Hook lights, and count my wagers won. I received the +omen as a good one, and so it proved. + + + + +LAND, HO! + + +I had often, and with much pleasure, heard intelligent Americans +describe the restless anxiety with which they approached the shores of +Britain; the almost painful degree of excitement created by the various +associations crowding on the imagination, and jostling each other for +supremacy, as they looked for the first time on their father-land. + +The veneration with which they pictured her ivy-clad towers, and the +throb with which they caught the names of places long familiar to memory +and hallowed by historical events, to all of which they felt their claim +inherited from their ancestors, whether from Thames, or Tweed, or +Shannon. + +To all of this I have, I say, listened with great pleasure, and with a +full sympathy in feelings at once natural and generous, yet can I hardly +admit them to possess more force, or their nature to be more exciting, +or richer in the material whence Fancy frames her chequered web, than +the recollections awakened in a well-stored imagination by a near +approach to the shores of America. Although differing widely, these are +to every philosophic mind, especially to a subject of Britain, at least +equally stirring. + +When it is first remembered, that on all the long line of coast +extending from the St. Lawrence to the Gulf of Mexico there was not, in +the beginning of the sixteenth century, one European family settled, or +a Christian voice that woke the forest with the name of God,--not a +civilized man from Canada to Florida, who placed his foot upon the soil +to call it home. Yet now, within this immense range may be reckoned the +mightiest States of the Union; and over its wide circumference are +scattered great cities, towns aspiring to be cities, and villages fast +growing into busy towns--possessing a population which for wealth hardly +need yield to the oldest countries of Europe, and in the general +diffusion of intelligence and education offering indeed to most of these +an example worthy of their imitation. + +When it is called to mind that the waters of her vast line of coast, now +daily ploughed by thousands of busy prows, were at this same not very +distant day as desert as her swamps and as unfurrowed, except where the +canoe of the scared Indian left its light track behind, when driven from +the shelter of some near river:--silent and shadowless, except when the +sail of the adventurous explorer flitted slowly over the waves, as he +steered his doubtful course filled with the many wonders seen and +fancied by his watchful, credulous crew,--some band of daring spirits +tempted hither in search of gold, or wild adventure, perhaps to perish +suddenly by the arrow of the savage, or slowly to wither beneath the +influence of the climate--God! what wonderful changes have been wrought +here, and what a living marvel is this land! Changes, which it has +required the labour of ages to accomplish elsewhere, have here been +effected by the energy of a few busy generations, whose toil was begun +and carried on amid want, and sickness, and a struggle against ignorance +and neglect without, as well as a war of extermination within; a war +which may be said to exist even to this day, for yet is the ever-growing +frontier from time to time awakened by the night whoop of the savage and +the answering shot of the hardy pioneer. + +Then come the recollections connected with the war of the +Revolution,--the noble declaration of independence, for truly noble it +was: no dark compact of a crew of ruffian conspirators, but a generous +bond that their aggrieved country should be freed, given by a band of +citizen gentlemen, husbands, fathers, and brothers, to the fulfilment of +the which they pledged unto each other their lives, their fortunes, and +their sacred honour; and having placed their hands to this bold deed, +they gave it to their people and the world. + +Their bond is cancelled, and they are dismissed beyond the hearing of +praise or censure; yet shall these, the names of their country's +fathers, be read and blessed by ages yet to come, and shall stand for +ever, each a synonyme for patriot honour. + +Washington, and the long wars he conducted through defeat and disaster +to such a glorious end for his country, together with that large list of +famous names connected with those and later events formed no mean +subject for reverie, and these were the fancies conjured through my +brain by a near approach to the shores of America. I confess I +contemplated her triumphs with a participation in her glory where +England was not a party, with no other feeling than regret when she +was,--with regret that the hands of brothers should ever have been +opposed in deadly enmity. + +I give back in love of country to no man, and to no foe under heaven +would I yield up one jot due to Britain's well-won supremacy, but to the +United States we may surely spare without envy the leaf she so hardily +plucked from our thick laurels. The glory of having given her birth, +language, and laws, she cannot rob us of; this will endure until her +mountains crumble: and all else she has acquired at the expense of +Britain, Britain can well spare, and still stand foremost on the roll of +Fame. + + + + +PORT. + + +On the morning of Tuesday, August 20th, I was roused, according to a +request I had left to that effect with Captain Maxwell, to look on the +Hook Lights, the entrance to the outer bay and harbour of New York. It +was three o'clock in the morning, a fresh yet bland breeze was just +giving motion to the smooth sea, and above, the firmament showed thickly +studded with heaven's lights; but the dazzling pharos of the Hook, to my +mind, were brighter at this hour than the best twinklers on the floor of +heaven,--so welcome were they. + +While waiting on deck, a couple of sky-rockets were discharged from the +storm-house by way of signal for a pilot. The effect of the sudden blaze +was fine; and the rush of each fiery messenger on its upward mission, as +it burst away from the Europe's deck, seemed a glad sound of welcome, +for it spoke of safe arrival, and consequent freedom from our present +thrall; for, however pleasant a ship may be, and however poetical our +notions about the "deep sea," after having been in the one and on the +other for five or six weeks, there are few bipeds who do not hail the +shore as a type of recovered liberty, and, however barren it may be, +right joyfully embrace it. + +About 7 A.M.--for here it appears pilots do not hurry themselves--we +made out a couple of schooner-rigged boats standing right for us, which +were at first taken for pilots, but proved to be news-boats. Several +such are, as it appears, kept in commission by the New York journals, +and the struggle for early intelligence between the rivals occasions a +display of considerable adventure not unattended with risk, since these +news-boats are out in all weathers, and from a great distance often +bring to the city a ship's letters, &c. many days before she makes her +own appearance. + +The news-collectors were welcomed civilly by our captain, bagged their +papers, made out a list of the passengers, and in a few moments were +again on the wing for shore, looking right into the wind, and with +smooth water and a light breeze, they drew rapidly away from the heavier +ship. I must observe that our Mercury's correctness was by no means +commensurate with his activity; for such ingenious changes did this +worthy contrive in the names of the passengers, that the mothers of some +would have failed to have discovered the arrival of their sons, except +upon instinct. + +At length, after long watching, a couple of pilot-schooners were +discovered standing out from under the high land, and in due time their +boats boarded us nearly together; and hence arose a dispute as to whose +particular prey the good Europe was to be considered. + +Each Pilot was voluble, and accused the other of violating the laws made +and provided in such cases for their better government: who was wrong in +this case it was difficult to say, but I very clearly made out that both +parties had cheated on former occasions, were willing to cheat in this, +and resolute to continue a like commendable practice in all others that +might offer, as far as in them lay. What arrant rogues are we in all +climes and under whatever rule, quoth I, internally, as I listened to +these wordy disputants; for, to do messieurs the pilots justice, the +matter was conducted in a manner more worthy the courts, better argued, +and in language less offensively figurative, than similar disputes at +which it has been my chance to assist between angry members of our own +_bars_. + +At length the elder pilot left the deck, and returned to his attendant +yawl, in evident dudgeon and disgust; when the junior, being hailed by +his comrades in the schooner on the opposite quarter, was advised to +give up the Europe, since they had made out a second ship quite as large +in the offing. + +Whether this information, or a latent sense of justice prevailed, it is +hard to say; but on the tidings our man hailed his irate senior--who was +borne away amidst deeply-muttered vows of vengeance--desired him to +return, and told him he would give up the ship. Thereon, back rowed our +ancient mariner; and after a few explanatory sentences, mutually offered +as salvos to their hurt honour, the rivals parted, to all outward +seeming as good friends as ever. + +Which had right I know not, but one of them had fish, and we of the +Europe had no cause to mourn the departure of that one, since, having +gained his deck, he sent us back a basket of newly-taken porgies, and +various other fishes with unpoetical names but of marvellous sweetness, +and sumptuous was our _déjeuner_ in consequence of this unlooked-for +addition. + +Henceforward, all between-decks presented a scene of bustle and +preparation; the most sluggish natures amongst us appeared now inspired, +whilst on all sides were heard good-humoured congratulations and glad +anticipations. I confess, although a very experienced voyager, I felt a +little touch of softness striving to sneak into and coil about my heart, +as the words,--home--friends, with other household sounds, fell thick +upon my hearing; for, all our passengers being American, I stood alone +here on this day of happy greeting, a stranger amongst strangers. + +Let me add, that this was the last day on which I felt so during my long +sojourn in the hospitable land; and even on this I possessed buoyancy +enough of spirit to keep down these selfish reflections, and, I thank +Heaven, sympathy enough to rejoice in the gladness of my comrades. + +I did not lack amusement, either after the first hurry was past; an +intelligent friend or two busied themselves pointing out to me the +various localities in detail, with whose general character Carey's +excellent atlas had already made me tolerably conversant. + +The day was clear and cloudless; and when to this advantage is added a +light head wind, which compelled us to work our way inward, no harbour +could be approached under auspices more favourable, or better calculated +to afford a complete and varying view of its beauties. + +Just as we had opened the Narrows, the entrance to the inner bay so +called, the wind grew so unpromising that a party of us decided to +engage the pilot vessel to take us as far as Staten Island, which they +"calculated" they could reach before the departure of the steamer for +New York. + +Bidding adieu to the Europe, away we dashed in the little witch of a +pilot, a craft of some eighty tons' burthen, but, viewed from a short +distance, not looking more than half that size, so snug was her build, +as well as from the absence of every kind of hamper; her shrouds were +without ratlins, and her deck without even the protection of a +rough-tree--a nakedness I should by no means like in bad weather. The +afterpart, however, or stern-sheets, is sunk about four feet; and as the +bowsprit is a mere stump, and the sheets of both foresail and jib lead +aft, all the work may be done here when under snug sail. + +The necessity, during our trip in the schooner, of working up between +the shores of Long and Staten Islands, was a chance that added to the +charm of our approach. + +Standing into the Narrows, under the guns of a formidable fort, the +pretty-looking village of Staten, where quarantine is performed, first +presented itself: the smoke of the steamer assured us she had not yet +departed, and two or three tacks brought us within signaling distance, +just as she broke away from the shore: our desire was readily +understood, and, slightly changing her course, she soon after received +us in addition to her already crowded freight. + +I found the upper deck of the Bolivar, the name of our steamer, +uncommonly hot, but it afforded a good place from which to view the +harbour and city as they were now rapidly unfolded: here, therefore, I +planted myself, all eyes; and certainly have rarely been better repaid +for a broiling. + +As we neared the Battery, we were afforded a passing glance up the East +and North Rivers,--the great waters which give wealth to Manhattan, and +jealously clip her beauty about, in equal participation. The _coup +d'oeil_ thus taken is very imposing, and at once awakens the stranger +to a sense of the commercial importance of the _entrepôt_ whose walls he +perceives shaded by such a forest of lofty masts. + + + + +NEW YORK. + + +FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE CITY. + + +On landing at the Battery, our first visit was to an office of the +customs here; and, instead of the dogged, sulky, bribe-demanding scowl, +too commonly encountered from our own low-class officials, who seem to +consider the custom-house as a means rather of annoyance to the lieges +than a protection to trade, we were met by civility, respect, and prompt +despatch. The luggage we had brought with us on shore was not subjected +to the least examination, and we went on our way highly pleased. First +impressions give their colour to succeeding matters; and surely those +derived from my encounter with the officials of a service at best +annoying, were much in favour of the land. + +On entering the quiet Bowling Green, where many of the houses have +coloured fronts, and all gaily painted jalousies, with trees shadowing +the _stoups_, I was reminded of Cape Town: but the impression was +momentary; a few yards on, and the long line of Broadway, with its +crowded side walks, showy shops, and numerous hotels, at once transports +you back to Europe; and, were it not for the sprinkling of black faces +with which the mass is chequered, one might swear oneself in Paris on +some portion of the Boulevards not altogether familiar to the eye, but +offering most of the points needful to prove identity, from the monkey +and hurdy-gurdy of the Savoyard, the _blouse_ of the carman and +_Conducteur_, to the swagger of the citizen-soldier, and the mincing +step and "_tournure charmante_" of the _belles_. The fronts of the +_cafés_ and hotels, too, as you pass along, you perceive to be covered +by chairs occupied by similar loungers to those on the Boulevards. + +Such were my impressions whilst moving on a hot day from the Battery to +the City Hotel, and so give I them place here; since I have often, after +a long residence in a place, found myself referring back to these first +glimpses, when desirous to present it at once fresh and comprehensive to +the eye of the stranger, and for such these sketches are chiefly +designed. + + + + +A BIVOUAC. + + +The day after my arrival, I was both interested and amused by +accidentally falling on the bivouac of a Swiss family of emigrants. + +I had risen early for the purpose of bathing, and was making my way to +the fort through the grounds of the Battery as the rising sun was just +adding new light and life to the most beautiful of harbours, when I came +suddenly upon the barriers of a little encampment perfectly Teutonic in +its arrangement; it was, however, no surprisal to the hive within, for +their morning operations had already begun. + +Within a circular rampart, formed out of various articles of household +gear,--three or four antique-looking spinning-wheels, a pair of churns, +a few clumsy chairs, a large chest, together with a couple of small +heavy waggons not yet placed upon the wheels,--were a few as lively +recruits as any land desirous of population could wish to welcome. + +The party consisted, first, of a right venerable-looking old man, the +patriarch of the tribe, as he told me, seventy-four years old; six men, +his sons and grandsons; seven lively boys, his great-grandchildren, and +about an equal number of girls, the patriarch's wife, nearly as aged as +himself, but with a shrill piercing voice and the activity of a girl of +nineteen, with four other women, the wives of the ancient's sons. + +At the moment I came upon them the whole camp was rousing into full +activity. The grandmother, assisted by a couple of her young women, +found ample occupation in first catching and next washing the junior +branches of the colonists: these appeared already aware of their being +in a country where every individual thinks for himself, or at least +thinks he does, which comes to the same thing, for they stoutly +resisted, to the last extremity, the soapless saline ablutions profusely +administered by their great grandam. + +Meantime a couple of the more staid of the youngsters, who had been +passed outside the lines, were busied beneath the trees collecting +fallen sticks, leaves, &c. for keeping up the fire already lighted and +presided over by one of the females, whose task it evidently was to +prepare breakfast. + +A couple of the men yet slept soundly; another pair were composedly +leaning against a waggon smoking their pipes; whilst a third, the +youngest of the grown men, and evidently the _beau-garçon_ of the party, +was busied about the completion of a careful toilet before six square +inches of looking-glass, held up to him by a young lass, rather +good-looking, who, kneeling before this Adonis in evident admiration, +most patiently abided the completion of his equipment previous to +commencing her own. + +My course was at once arrested by a scene so new and unexpected; and I +stood for a long time contemplating the repose of this little group, +camping here in the midst of a busy population on the banks of the +Hudson, in the same manner and after the same fashion their ancestors +are described to have followed by the Rhone and the Danube in the time +of Cæsar. + +There was an air of confident security about the whole arrangement, that +spoke equally in favour of the hardy simplicity of these strangers and +the courtesy and honesty of their adopted country; for I know no +European capital wherein such a group could have sat them down and +passed a summer night, unhoused and unwatched, without receiving +annoyance, if not suffering loss. + +I learned that the family had been landed late on the preceding +afternoon from a French ship; so that, not being able, as is the wont of +this people, to depart for their destination immediately, they had in +the most prompt and orderly manner pitched their tents here for the +night, and were now preparing for their march into the wilderness. + +This sight, striking in itself, was no less illustrative of the country +and the time: these arrivals are of daily occurrence here during the +season; every one of the northern nations of Europe is contributing her +quota out of the most enterprising of her children to swell the numbers, +and give additional pith and vigour to the population, of this land of +wonder. + +About three hours after this first rencounter, whilst seated in our +parlour at breakfast, I pointed out to my friend P---- the whole family +passing the city hotel _en route_. + +They had now gotten one of their clumsy waggons mounted, and rudely +harnessed to a stout-looking horse, and on this vehicle was piled all +their worldly store. The males, pipe in hand and marching four abreast, +strode boldly on before; next came the waggon, surrounded and followed +by the women and children: the heads of one or two of the youngest of +these, by the bye, might just be seen poking out from the lumber amongst +which they were ensconced upon the car. + +I observed that the old dame now carried in her hand a wicker-cage, +containing a little captive of the goldfinch tribe, some home-bred +favourite, whose simple notes will often call up the memory of +father-land, when this family of humble adventurers shall be located, +happily I trust, on some wild stream of the far west, for thither were +they bound, and, with the appliances I have sketched, were cheerfully +setting forth to perform a journey of some two thousand miles. These, +however, are the sort of persons who may look most to benefit by such a +change; after a few to them trifling privations, and an industrious +struggle, they have the certain satisfaction of beholding their +offspring surrounded by comfort, and their means yearly increasing. They +presently exchange want for plenty, and cease to look upon the coming +time with fear or doubt for even their children's children; since +generations must rise and pass away before enterprise and honest +industry will feel any lack of elbow-room here. + +The weather was awfully hot during the last week of this month; and +great was my delight, on entering the parlour of a morning, to look upon +the butter luxuriating beneath a large wedge of clear ice: only for the +cutting up, I should have gloried in being a _Pat_ of butter myself. +This article of ice is presented here in a purity of form, and is withal +so plentiful, that it almost makes amends for the dog-days. + +Our breakfasts were excellent--fish, fruit in abundance, chickens, +omelette, &c. with good coffee, and the best black tea I ever drank. The +parlour was a very large well-furnished room, level with and fronting on +the busiest part of Broadway; and a more amusing stand than one of the +windows, for a stranger, it would be difficult to select. The whole busy +population, I should imagine, passed in review here once, at least, in +six hours; together with samples of all the nondescript vehicles city or +country rejoices in. + +To one worthy I owe many a hearty laugh,--who knows but I may have +repaid the good soul in kind?--I hope I have, for my gratitude is his. +Let the reader imagine a long street, very crowded, and about noon +shadeless, with the thermometer at 98° in the sun. In the very middle +of this broiling thoroughfare, fancy a low carriage on four wheels, +ycleped a Jersey waggon, having a seat with a high back hung by straps +athwart-ships; over this seat a buffalo robe of vast dimensions, the +thick fur outside and a red lining within, falling in heavy folds to the +waggon floor; upon this buffalo skin, seated right in the centre, with +knees and elbows spread as far apart as possible, a huge mass of +humanity clothed in a dark jacket of home-spun cloth, with vest and +trousers of blue cotton; his pumpkin-like head covered by a broad-leafed +straw hat, a Dutch pipe on his lip, and before him a hard-mouthed +awkward little horse pulled about by both hands, now right, now left, +but rarely going out of a walk. Above a high shirt-collar his full-blown +cheeks might be seen, as he sucked in the hot air and rejected it again +like a blowing porpoise: cravat he had none, because he had no neck to +tie it about; but in lieu of this article he carried, knotted over his +broad shoulders, a little red handkerchief. Daily did I ask myself for a +whole week "Will it walk again?" and, so surely as the shadeless hour of +noon arrived, did my Dutch fire-king arrive with it, steering his waggon +through the sweltering mass with a composure--coolness I could not call +it--most enviable. + +I would have given anything to have known him and his history; but +though I had opportunities of pointing him out to my friends +occasionally, no one knew him. Son of a thousand burgomasters, may your +shadow never grow less! for I owe to you the beguilement of many a hot +hour: but I fear me my friend must be "larding six feet of lean earth," +somewhere in the vicinity of Manhattan, since for the last year I have, +on every day that the sun shone intensely with the glass over 90°, +watched in vain for his coming. + +In the cool of the afternoon, if there chance to be any cool, it is a +common custom for the young men of all classes to drive or ride some +five or six miles along the north avenue,--an excellent road leading to +the pretty village of Harlaem; and on this line, about sunset, the +amateur of horse-flesh may see done, the fastest pace in the trotting +world; double-horse waggons of the neatest and lightest construction, +gig, sulky, and saddle, all are alike borne along by trotters or pacers +at a speed varying from the pair that are doing their mile in three +minutes, to the sulky or saddle nag flying at the rate of a mile in two +minutes, thirty seconds. + +The first time I was whirled along this road at the heels of one of the +crack goers of the city, amidst clouds of dust through which the rushing +of other vehicles might be dimly made out, and startled by the wild +cries used by the rival drivers, at once to encourage their horses and +prove the impossibility of scaring them into breaking up, I thought it +one of the most exciting things I had ever met; and on getting down at +Cato's, involuntarily found myself drawing a long breath. + + + + +CATO'S! + + +And what is Cato's? and who is Cato? Shade of Rome's patriot and sage, +anger not! for Cato is a great man, foremost amongst cullers of mint, +whether for _julep_ or _hail-storm_; second to no man as a compounder of +_cock-tail_, and such a hand at a _gin-sling_! + +Cato is a gentleman of colour who presides at a little tavern, named +after its proprietor, lying just off the dust of the road between two +sharp hills, and situated some four miles from New York--a good +breathing distance for a fast burst--and here consequently most men halt +to give their horses breath, and wash the dust out of their own throats +with some one of Cato's many excellent compounds. The convenience of the +place is enhanced by the manner of its master, who for courtesy and +_bienséance_ might serve as a model to most of his young friends. His +society indeed is of the very best, including all the first sporting +youths of the city; and his liquors are equal to his breeding. + +Cato will give a few select friends breakfast too on a hot morning, if +it be especially ordered; and, certes, a woodcock and toast as served up +by him on these occasions is a thing not to be forgotten. It was my +fortune, under the auspices of my friend, Mr. M'L--d, an especial +favourite of "mine host," to pay several visits to Cato's, and to come +away at each with added respect for the great man, and increased regard +for his excellent entertainment. + + + + +THEATRE. + + _Great heat--doubts, dubitations, and début._ + + +I do not intend to bore my readers with a series of play-bills, or a +journal of my theatrical career; but I feel that on this head there may +be some little curiosity, and that it would on my part be an affectation +to eschew the subject, as well as an injustice to my American comrades +of the buskin, to whom I owe some kind mention, since it was my lot to +add considerably to their labours. I will therefore just notice my +appearance in each city as it occurred, and that as briefly as may be +consistent; when any fun turns up, I promise the reader the benefit of +it. I shall also give my impressions of the various audiences I +encountered; because I think there is no place where the characteristics +of a people are more clearly shown than at a theatre, where all mix upon +a footing more purely democratic than in any other whatever, and each +man having a right to evince his taste after his own fashion, opinion +becomes the only conservation of propriety. + +To my first night at New York, then, I looked with much anxiety, and +not without reason. I had, contrary to the advice of many friends, given +up a large income, the continuance of which the increasing favour of the +public gave me reasonable promise of. I had vacated my seat and quitted +my country on no other engagement than one for twelve nights at New +York, the profits of which were wholly dependent upon my success, as +were my engagements in other cities dependent upon my reception in this. + +One kind soul assured me that every drama I possessed had been already +anticipated; another, that they had no taste for Irish character, or +that accustomed, as they had long been, to associate with the +representative of my poor countrymen a ruffian with a black eye, and +straw in his shoes, the public taste was too vitiated to relish a quiet +portrait of nature undebased. + +This was flattering, but not pleasant: the only man whose views appeared +sanguine was Mr. P----, who had been my companion on the voyage, and +whose cheering reply to all doubters was, "I tell you, sir, it must do." + +The theatre was announced to be re-opened on the 28th of August, with +the "Irish Ambassador" and "Teddy the Tiler." The day was one of the +hottest we had known, and towards night it became oppressively close. + +No strange actor of the least note could open in New York, to anything +short of a full house; it seems to be a hospitable principle to give the +aspirant for fame a cordial welcome and a fair hearing; let it not be +considered egotistical, therefore, when I say that the house was +crowded; from pit to roof rose tier on tier one dark unbroken mass; I do +not think there were twenty females in the dress circle; all men, and +enduring, I should imagine, the heat of the black hole at Calcutta. I at +the time regretted the absence of the ladies, when, had I been less +selfish, I should have rejoiced at it. + +The moment came when "Sir Patrick" was announced; and amidst greetings +as hearty as ever I received in my life, I made my first bow to the Park +audience. I saw no coats off, no heels up, no legs over boxes--these +times have passed away; a more cheerful, or apparently a more English +audience, I would not desire to act before. + +I was called for at the end of the play, and thanked the house for its +welcome. If the performance had not gone off with that electric and +constant laughter and applause to which I had grown accustomed at home, +I had received positive assurance that my new clients were intelligent +and very attentive, and I therefore no longer entertained fears for the +result. + +Not so, however, one or two of my friends, whose anxiety and kind wishes +it would have been hard indeed for any measure of applause to have +satisfied: amidst the congratulations they brought me were therefore +mixed up little cautionary drawbacks. + +"It was capital," said one; "but you must not be so quiet: give them +more bustle." + +"In some other piece," replied I; "here it is not in the bond." + +"You must paint a little broader, my dear fellow," says +another:--"you're too natural for them; they don't feel it." + +"If it's natural they must feel it," said I, adding, "each of my +characters are, according to my ability, painted from nature; they are +individual abstractions with which _I_ have nothing to do; the colouring +is a part of each, and I can't change it as I change my audience:--'tis +only for me to present the picture as it is; for them to like or dislike +it." + +For the six following evenings the houses, though not great, were equal +and good; each night I found my audience understanding me better, and +felt that I was grappling them closer to me. The arrival of Mrs. and Mr. +Wood earlier than the manager counted upon, created a difficulty; to +obviate which I waived my claim to six of my nights, as my acting must +have kept them idle. + +A day or two before my departure for Philadelphia, I witnessed the first +appearance of this lady and her husband. Her reception was enthusiastic, +but Malibran had left impressions it was difficult to compete with; and, +although her brilliant talent was on all hands admitted, I am not sure +whether her husband's manly style of singing a ballad was not to the +full as much considered as her execution of the most brilliant sçena. + +The Park Theatre is, as well as I could judge, about the size of the old +Lyceum, of the horse-shoe form; has three tiers of boxes; is handsome, +and in all respects as well appointed as any theatre out of London. + +The orchestra is at present excellent, and under the direction of a +very clever man--Penson, formerly leader at Dublin. The company I found +for my purpose a very fair one, my pieces requiring little save +correctness from most of those concerned, except where old men, like +"Aspen," "Frederick II." &c. occur, and all such parts found an +excellent representative in an American actor, called Placide. Descended +of a long line of talented players, he possesses a natural talent I have +rarely seen surpassed, together with a chastity and simplicity of style +that would do credit to the best school of comedy; yet he has never been +away from his own country. I trust the model may not be lost on those +who have to follow him. + +There is a representative of old women here, too, a native, Mrs. +Wheatley, an inartificial charming actress, with a perfect conception of +all she does, and a humorous _espièglerie_ of manner that is admirable. +This lady has a daughter, a girl of fourteen, one of the cleverest +mimics I ever saw: she would imitate Miss Fanny Kemble throughout a +whole character, or think, talk, and walk, like her in private,--all +with a slight dash of caricature, but in a spirit of truth and acute +observation worthy of the inimitable Matthews himself. + +With these exceptions, the company is, I think, made up of English +actors, many of whom have held respectable situations in the London +houses. + +I had heard a good deal of the disorder of the American stage, and the +intractability of American actors; with this specimen I had therefore +every reason to be pleased. I am rather a hard drill, too; but I also +know how painful is the task of studying and practising long parts for +the star of the day, to be thrust out by some fresh stuff got up for his +successor: I am aware of this, and therefore strive to make the pill +less bitter by doing my "spiriting gently," where I see a desire to be +attentive on the part of my friends. + +As I may not have occasion to revert to New York theatrically again, let +me here say that, after repeated renewal of my engagements during two +years, my last were amongst the greatest I made in this city: how, after +this, the American public can be called cold or fickle, I at least have +no means of judging. + +After a stay of three weeks in New York, rendered as agreeable as fine +weather, kind friends, warm welcome, and success could make it, I took +my departure for Philadelphia by the Camden and Amboy line of steam-boat +and rail-road. Punctual to the minute advertised, we left the wharf; +and, although the day was cold for the season, I was charmed with our +trip across the harbour towards Raritan Creek. + +From about half-way over this channel, which separates Staten Island +from the city, I should say, after some experience, the best general +view of New York and its most prominent environs may be obtained. + +Behind you rise the heights of Brooklyn, undulating along your left to +the passage of the Narrows, through which you catch a glimmer of the sea +beyond; close on your right lies the picturesque-looking old city of +Jersey; and immediately beyond, the village of Hoboken, famous for +turtle and pistol-matches: its neighbourhood to the Elysian fields +renders it a singularly lucky site for the fire-eaters, since, if shot, +they have no Charon to pay; the turtle-eaters here find, no doubt, equal +facilities. Far to the north, the dark promontory of the Palisadoes +beetles broadly forth, marking the course of the Hudson. + +In the middle distance lies the city, looking as though it floated deep +upon the bosom of the ready waters that encompass it about. It is +happier in its place of rest than most Dutch towns, and well merited the +name of New Amsterdam, given it by its founders. The ground it covers +was at one time divided into hill and dale; but with eyes wide open to +business, and close sealed against taste, the conscript fathers of our +infant Rome shaved smooth every ant-hill that rose in their path, and to +their inheritors have bequeathed a love of their trim lines of beauty, +for they are proceeding on the levelling system with a worthy +pains-taking that will in due time render the whole island as flat as a +tulip-bed. + +The passage up the Raritan or Amboy Creek, between Staten Island and the +main, is uninteresting enough; the channel reminding one very much of +the left bank of the Thames about Erith,--swampy levels, with flat +barges, and river-side public houses. The village of Perth Amboy is the +first attractive object; it is built upon the face of a hill rising +gently from the water, and is well shaded, looking healthy, fresh, and +neat. Here the steamer stops for a minute to land or receive passengers, +and then makes for Amboy landing, about a couple of miles distant. Here +we left our boat, and were immediately transferred to the cars of the +new railroad connecting the Raritan with the Delaware, and pursued our +way to Bordentown, through a dreary, barren-looking country, whose only +attractions were occasional orchards of a most fruitful kind, if one +might judge by the plenteous gathering already in progress. In many +places were piled up little mountains of apples, destined chiefly for +the cider press. + +The loco-motives not being in condition to do duty, the horses occupied +as yet their legitimate station, going at the rate of about eight miles +per hour. + +Near the entrance to Bordentown, the present mansion of the ex-king of +Spain was pointed out: it does not appear to be very happily located, +but commands, I understand, an extensive view of the broad Delaware, and +affords room enough to bustle in, even for one whose domain was once +royal. + +Here we once more embarked; and hence to Philadelphia the Delaware is a +broad placid stream, with low banks of alternate wood and meadow, having +sprinkled along them numbers of well-built houses of all sizes, from +the shingle cottage to the imposing-looking mansion with its lofty +portico of painted pine. + +The boat touches on its way at two very charming-looking villages, +Bristol and Burlington, situated at opposite angles of a fine bend of +the river. On the quay of the latter I noticed, as we halted, a group of +fairy-looking lassies watching for the landing of some friend; and their +animated expression, delicate proportions, and graceful _tournure_, did +much to bespeak favour for the girls of Pennsylvania. + +It was night before we gained the Quaker city, and exceeding dark +withal; so that the long dotted lines of lights, regularly intersecting +each other until lost in distance, had the effect of a general +illumination, whilst it gave evidence of a widely-spread and populous +city. + +We drove to Mr. Head's hotel, the Mansion House, where we were welcomed +by the worthy host in person; although he had not bed-rooms for us that +night, for we were three in company. We were, however, soon furnished +with a most excellent supper; and after, two of us got, not "three +chairs and a bolster," but a couple of camp bedsteads with good +mattresses, and sheets white as snow. Our senior companion, Mr. P----, +was provided with a bed-chamber; and what could the heart of weary +traveller wish for more? + +On the morrow I also was installed in a capital chamber; and if those +incarnate demons the musquitoes would have made peace with me, I should +have scorned comparisons with the Nabob of the Carnatic. But, oh! +immortal gods, how they did hum and bom, and bite and buzz! and how I +did fume, and slap, and snatch, and swear, partly in fear, and partly +through sheer vexation of spirit, at having no means of vengeance +against a foe whose audacity was open and outrageous, whose trumpets +were for ever sounding a charge, yet who were withal, as impassable as +Etna. + +I would rather hear the roar of lions about my resting-place than the +vicious hum of these infernal wee beasts; and I may be allowed to +decide, having listened to both: the latter never failed to keep me +wakeful through fair fright; but when well worn with fatigue, after a +shiver and a start or two, I have slept sound, in safe company, although +the crunch and roar of the nobler _varmint_ sounded near enough to make +our terrified horses press to the watch-fire with breathings thick and +loud,--a neighbourhood anything but agreeable, but, I swear, infinitely +preferable to an incursion of hungry musquitoes. + +The next morning, Sept. 12th, rose early, took a hot bath, and dressed +for a hot day; but the day was resolute not to be hot: a north-east wind +had set in after breakfast, and down went the thermometer from +seventy-nine to forty-five. "Zooks, what a tumble!" as Mister Poll says: +all the time too the sky was cloudless, and the sun shining most +treacherously. I wasn't to be done, however; so, after an hour, jumped +again into my broad-cloth for comfort. + +During my first week here I occupied private apartments,--which may be +had at every hotel, by the way,--and being in company with a friend, we +had our meals at our own hours, all of which were excellent and well +served, with wines most unexceptionable. My friend leaving me, however, +I took the advice of my good host, Mr. Head, and, quitting my sulky +solitude, joined the public table,--a change I had every reason to be +satisfied with, since, however, unpleasant the bustle occasioned by a +hundred or a hundred and fifty persons dining _ensemble_, no such +objection can apply here, where the guests rarely exceed twenty-five or +thirty, including from time to time men of the first rank and +intelligence in the States. This dinner-table indeed is as well +appointed in every way as any gentleman could desire; the attendants +numerous and well ordered; the service, including every luxury the +season can furnish, is of three courses; and the cloth is never drawn +under an hour. I am thus particular, because, as much has been said of +the badness of hotels in America, it is but fair to give place to a +notice of those which are good; and so essentially good a _table d'hote_ +as that of the Mansion House at Philadelphia, whether for variety, +cooking, wine, or all these things combined, I never yet met in any +country of Europe. + + + + +PHILADELPHIA. + + +I pity the man who, on a fine morning, can walk through the shady and +clean streets of Philadelphia and cry, "all is barren!" In my eyes, it +appeared, even at first sight,--and no place improves more upon +acquaintance,--one of the most attractive-looking towns I had ever +beheld. + +Coming immediately out of the noise, bustle, and variety of Broadway, +its general aspect appears quiet, almost _triste_; but the cleanliness, +the neatness, the air of comfort, propriety, and health, that reigns on +all sides, bespeaks immediate favour. + +The progress of improvement, and enlargement too, are sufficiently +evident, for at either extremity of the city, the fall of hammer and +chisel give unceasing note of preparation. The circle designed and +marked out as the limit of its future greatness by the sanguine mind of +its sagacious founder has long since been overleaped; the wide Delaware +on one side, and on the other the Schuylkill, seem incapable of bounding +the ambitious city. Already does Market-street rest upon these two +points, which cannot be less than three miles apart. + +Touching Market-street I ought to know something, since, on two +occasions, I got out of my bed to visit it at four A.M. I am curious in +looking upon these interesting _entrepôts_ whence we cull the dainties +of a well-furnished larder, and a view over this was truly worth the +pains; for in no place have I ever seen more lavish display of the good +things most esteemed by this eating generation, nor could any market +offer them to the amateur in form more tempting. Neatness and care were +evident in the perfect arrangement of the poultry, vegetables, fruit, +butter, &c.; and the display of well-fed beef, with the artist-like way +in which it was dressed, might have excited our Giblets' spleen even in +the Christmas week. + +Poultry of all kinds here is equal to that of any country, and the +butter almost as good as the best Irish, which I think the sweetest in +the world. The market, at the early time I mentioned, offered a busy and +amusing scene, and I passed away a couple of hours here very much to my +satisfaction, besides cheating those souls of d----d critics, the +musquitoes, out of a breakfast; for each day, about the first light, I +used to be awakened by their assembling for a little _déjeuner dânsant_, +whereat I was victim. + +One of the pleasantest visits a man can pay in Philadelphia on a hot +day, is to the water-works at Fair-mount, on the Schuylkill: the very +name is refreshing with the mercury at 96° in the shade; and, if there +be a breeze in Pennsylvania, you will find it here. No city can be +better supplied with water than this; and I never looked upon the pure +liquid, welling through the pipes and deluging the thirsty streets, +without a feeling of gratitude to these water-works, and of respect for +the pride with which the Philadelphians regard their spirited public +labour. They have evinced much taste, too, in the quiet, simple +disposition of the ground and reservoirs connected with the machinery; +the trees and plants are well selected for the situation, and will soon +add to the natural beauty of this very fine reach of the river. + +Mounting the east bank of the stream, from this to the village of +Manayunk, you have a very pretty ride; and crossing the bridge at the +"Falls of the Schuylkill,"--falls no longer, thanks to the dam at +Fair-mount,--the way back winds along by, or hangs above, the canal and +river, here marching side by side; offering, in about four miles, as +charming a succession of river views as painter or poet could desire. It +is a lovely ramble by all lights, and I have viewed it by all,--in the +blaze of noon, and by the sober grey of summer twilight; I have ridden +beneath its wooded heights, and through its overhanging masses of rare +foliage, in the alternate bright cold light and deep shade of a +cloudless moon; and again, when tree, and field, and flower were yet +fresh and humid with the heavy dew, and sparkling in the glow of early +morning. + +At the period of my first visit, the huge piers of a new bridge, +projected by the Columbian Railroad Company, were just appearing in +different degrees above the gentle river's surface. The smoke of the +workmen's fires rising from the wood above, and the numerous attendant +barges moored beneath the tall cliff from which the road was to be +thrown, added no little to the effect. I have since seen this viaduct +completed, and have been whirled over it in the train of a locomotive; +and, although it is a fine work, I cannot but think every lover of the +picturesque will mourn the violation of the solitude so lately to be +found here. + +I could not refrain from picturing to myself the light canoes of the +Delaware Indians as at no very remote period they lay rocking beneath +the shelter of that very bluff where now were moored a fleet of +deep-laden barges: indeed these ideas were constantly forcing +themselves, as it were, into my mind as I wandered over the changeful +face of this singular land, where the fresh print of the moccasin is +followed by the tread of the engineer and his attendants, and the light +trail of the red man is effaced by the road of iron: hardly have the +echoes ceased to repeat through the woods the Indian's hunter-cry before +this is followed by the angry rush of the ponderous steam-engine, urged +forward! still forward! by the restless pursuer of his fated race. + +Wander whither you will,--take any direction, the most frequented or the +most secluded,--at every and at all points do these lines of railway +intercept your path. Each state, north, south, and west, is eagerly +thrusting forth these iron arms, to knit, as it were, in a straiter +embrace her neighbours; and I have not a doubt but, in a very short +time, a man may journey from the St. Lawrence to the gulf of Mexico +coastwise with as much facility as he now does from Boston to +Washington, a distance of four hundred and fifty miles, which may be at +this day performed within forty hours, out of which you pass a night in +New York. + +But to leave anticipations and imaginings,--which, by the way, is a +forbearance hard of practice in a region where all things are on the +whirl of speculative change, and where practical results outrun the +projections of even the most visionary theorist,--and return to make +such rapid survey of this interesting city as may be ventured on during +a first visit of some twenty days. I feel, indeed, that but little can +be really known in so short a time of a place containing two hundred and +twenty thousand souls, and having in a rapid state of advancement +various alterations and improvements, including nearly five thousand new +buildings all immediately required: although there are persons gifted +with such power of intuition, that, as I learn from their own showing, +they are enabled in half the period to decide upon the condition of the +whole state of Pennsylvania; to discover the wants of its capital, the +defects of its institutions, the value of its commerce, the drift of its +policy; to gauge its morals, become intimate with its society, and make +out a correct estimate of its relative condition and prospects compared +with the other great divisions of the Union, surveyed, I presume, with +equal rapidity, judged with equal candour, and estimated with equal +correctness. + +Each in his degree: and so, in my way, good reader, I will endeavour to +give you some notion of this capital of old Penn's Sylvania; but if your +own imagination come not to the help of my outline, I fear, after all my +painstaking, your notion of the subject will be only a faintish one. + +Philadelphia is built upon a peninsula formed by two rivers, the +Delaware and the Schuylkill, having a long graduated rise from each, the +highest point being about the centre of the city. It is laid out in +squares, and the streets run in parallel lines of two and three miles in +length, retaining the same names throughout, only divided by +Market-street into north, and south: with the exception of this dividing +street, those running east and west are named after trees, flowers, and +fruits,--as chestnut, walnut, peach, &c.; and those parallel with the +rivers, first, Front-street, or that facing the water; next, +Second-street, third, fourth, fifth, &c. distinguished as, divided by +Market-street, into South-second, North-second, &c.; a simplicity of +arrangement which is unique, and renders the stranger's course an +exceeding easy one: all he has to do is, first, to run down the latitude +of his street by any of the great avenues, and, having fairly struck it, +steer north or south, as may be, till he hits upon the friendly number. + +The side-walks throughout are broad and well-ordered, neatly paved with +brick, and generally bordered by rows of healthful trees of different +kinds, affording in hot weather a most welcome shade, and giving to the +houses an air of freshness and repose rarely to be met with in a +populous city. + +The dwellings are chiefly of brick, of a good colour, very neatly +pointed; and nothing can be more tasteful than their fitting-up +externally. The windows are furnished with latticed shutters; these, +when not closed, fold back on either hand against the wall, and being +painted green, and kept with much care and freshness, would invest +humbler dwellings with an attractive air, especially in the eyes of an +Englishman, accustomed to the dingy aspect of our city residences, which +look as though the owners had resolved on making them as forbidding as +possible without, in order to enhance the excelling comforts within. + +Now the houses of Philadelphia are as clean and neat in all the detail +of the exterior, as they are well-ordered and admirably furnished. The +mountings of the rails and doors are either of polished silver plating +or brass, and kept as bright as care can make them. The solid hall-door, +in hot weather, is superseded by one of green lattice-work, similar to +the window-shutters, which answers the purpose of keeping out every +intrusive stranger, except the air,--air being at such seasons, as most +strangers are at all times, especially welcome to Philadelphia, which is +about the hottest place I know of in the autumn; the halls are commonly +flagged with fine white marble, are spacious, lofty, and well fitted-up. + +The houses average three stories, but in the best streets, those of the +first class are run up to five, and even six, and are of great depth: +indeed, I should say, the inhabitants of this city generally enjoy +greater space in their lodgings than is afforded to those of any other +large capital. Where population increases rapidly rents are necessarily +high; and a good house in Philadelphia costs about as much, independent +of taxation, as a dwelling of the same class in London. + +Besides the great market, which gives its name to the dividing line of +the city, and runs through its whole breadth, there are several others, +less extensive perhaps, but all alike under cover, well adapted to the +purpose, and boasting a due proportion of the abundance of good things, +which, profusely displayed on all sides, give ready evidence of the +agricultural wealth of the neighbourhood. + +Numbers of the best market-farmers for vegetables, poultry, butter, &c. +are Germans, who, although most earnest in enriching the country by +their labour, yet cling with strange tenacity to the customs and +language of "Fader-land." Their costume and manner yet continues as +distinct and recognizable as was the appearance of their progenitors on +landing here some eighty years back, for the colony from which they are +chiefly derived had existence about the middle of the eighteenth +century; and many of these men, yet speaking no word of English, are of +the third generation. They have German magistrates, an interpreter in +courts when they act as jurors, German newspapers, &c.; and are the +stoutest, if not the promptest, asserters of democracy. + +They are usually found a little in arrear on the subject of all passing +events; and at election times, or on occasions of extraordinary stir, +when a man is striving to render them _au courant_ with late +occurrences, they will now and then interrupt their informant with, "Bud +why de teufel doesn't Vashington come down to de Nord and bud it all to +rights?" + +The public buildings are here of a more ambitious style of architecture +than any of the other cities can boast, and some of them are built in +exceeding good taste; but the one which had most interest in my eyes was +the old State-house, wherein the "Declaration of Independence" was +signed. The Senate-chamber is, I fancy, little changed since that +period; and contained, when I was last within it, models for various +public works: amongst others, several for a heroic statue of Washington, +about to be erected, somewhat late in the day to be sure, by the city; +others for the new college, now building, according to the will of the +late S. Girard, and intended to assist in perpetuating his name and +wealth to all posterity. + +Such appears to have been the great object of the will of this worthy +citizen, and there is every prospect of its fully answering the purpose, +since it has already set the whole community by the ears, and promises +to prove as prolific of evils as the strong box of Miss Pandora, without +having even Hope at the bottom. + +This man, who has been so much eulogized dead, seems, as well as I could +glean amongst his contemporaries, to have been anything but estimable in +his living character. He is universally described as having been tricky, +overreaching, and litigious in his dealings as a merchant; an unfeeling +relation, an exacting, ungrateful, and forgetful master; and a selfish, +cold-hearted man: unoccupied with any generous sympathy, public or +private, throughout a long life, devoted to one purpose with sleepless +energy, and to one purpose only--making and hoarding money; which, +living, he contrived, as far as in him lay, to render as little +beneficial to any as possible, and, dying, disposed of to his own +personal glorification, but to the vexation of the community, amongst +which he appeared to have lived unhonoured, and certainly died +unregretted! + +I am aware that "de mortuis nil nisi bonum" has usually been applied to +cases similar to the above; "nil nisi _justem_" I think a sounder +reading where a man is held up as a public example, and deem that the +selection of a church or a college for a monument should not be +permitted to shield the base from animadversion, or call for honours to +the worthless. + + + + +THE THEATRES--WALNUT AND CHESTNUT: + + +So called were the houses at which I first acted here, situated in the +two fine streets bearing the same names. + +The Walnut is a summer theatre, and the least fashionable; and here it +was my fortune to make my _début_ to the Philadelphians with good +success: a French company occupied at the same time the Chestnut, where, +after a seven nights' engagement at the other house, I succeeded them; +the proprietors being the same at both. + +These houses are large, handsome buildings, marble-fronted, having ample +and well-arranged vomitories; and are not stuck into some obscure alley, +as most of our theatres are, but standing in the finest streets of the +city, and every way easy of approach: within, they are fitted up +plainly, but conveniently, and very cleanly and well kept. I prefer the +Chestnut, as smaller, and having a pit--as I think all pits ought to +be--nearly on a level with the front of the stage, instead of being sunk +deep below, looking, when filled, like a huge dark pool, covered with +upturned faces. + +A crowded audience here presents as large a proportion of pretty, +attractive women as are anywhere to be seen; and the male part is +singularly respectable and attentive. Here again I must protest against +the charge of insensibility being laid at their doors; that is, as far +as my own feeling and experience goes. + +If by applause, a constant clapping of palms or hammering of sticks is +only meant, interspersed with cries of "Bravo!" I admit they are +deficient; but if an evident anxiety to lose no word or look of the +artist, an evident abstraction from everything but the scene, with +demonstrations of admiration discriminating and well applied, may be +accepted as sufficient marks of approval, then has the actor no cause of +complaint. + +With the tragedian, who strains after what in stage parlance are called +_points_, and calculates on being interrupted by loud clapping before +the sense of the sentence be complete, or else wants breath to finish +it, a Philadelphian audience might prove a slippery dependence, since +they come evidently to hear the author as well as see the actor, and are +"attentive, that they may hear." + +For myself, the unreserved laughter in which they indulged I found +abundant applause, and in well-filled houses the best assurance that +they were pleased. The company here was a very good one, and the pieces +as well gotten up as anywhere in the States. + +I paid frequent visits to this charming city, and shall have occasion +again to refer to it. My first impressions are here set down, and +favourable as these were, a more intimate knowledge only served to +confirm them. + + + + +JOURNEY TO BOSTON. + + +THE EAST RIVER.--HURL-GATE.--THE SOUND.--POINT JUDITH.--NEWPORT +HARBOUR.--PROVIDENCE. + + +On Saturday morning, at 7 A.M. Sept. 28th, quitted Philadelphia; arrived +in New York at 2 P.M.; and transferring my baggage from the steamer on +the North River to the one about to depart for Providence, and whose +wharf lay upon the East River, I had a couple of hours' leisure, which I +employed in writing home, for the packet of the 1st of October; and at +five o'clock P.M. left the city, in the noblest steam-vessel I had yet +seen. + +The view of Brooklyn, the Navy Yard, and this part of the harbour, is +very attractive from the point of departure; and the numerous little +steamers, actively plying to and fro at the various ferries, give an +unceasing air of bustle to the scene. I was greatly charmed by our sail +up this passage into the Sound dividing Long Island from the continent, +which it flanks and protects for a distance of one hundred miles. + +The banks on either side do not vary a great deal in elevation, but are +of a slightly undulating character, beautifully wooded, and sprinkled +with the attractive-looking villas of the country. Mr. Cooper's graphic +description of Hurl-gate, in his novel of the "Red Rover," led me to +look out for it with an interest which the reality did not repay, +although the tide was in a favourable state. I confess, however, I think +that my imagination rather outran discretion than that the whirlpool +lacked grandeur: that it was not to be encountered without some peril we +had very good evidence; for, on a rocky islet to the southward of the +worst part of the fall, a large schooner lay hove up on her beam-ends, +with all her spars aloft and her sails half furled, as she had been +abandoned by her crew. Our pilot informed me that the accident had +occurred the day previous, and was by no means a rare example, the +downward passage at the last of the ebb requiring great care and +experience. + +Our powerful engines forced the vessel through the dark eddies, +apparently without difficulty; and in a little while this long +looked-for wonder was forgotten. + +I remained on deck until after midnight; for there was a bright moon and +a calm clear sky, and the Sound was sprinkled with craft of all kinds. + +I must not omit to notice supper, or tea,--for it was both, and an +excellent meal it was,--served about eight o'clock upon two parallel +tables, which ran the whole length of the cabin, at least one hundred +and eighty feet; and to which sat down about one hundred persons of all +ranks,--the richest merchants, the most eminent statesmen, and the +humblest mechanic who chose to pay for a cabin fare, as most of these +persons who travel do. I was seated with an exceeding lady-like and +well-bred woman on my left hand, and on my right sat a man who, although +decently dressed, was evidently a working operative of the humblest +class; yet was there nothing in either his manner or appearance to annoy +the most refined female: he asked for what he wanted respectfully, +performed any little attention he could courteously, and evinced better +breeding and less selfishness than I have witnessed at some public +dinners at home, where the admission of such a person would have been +deemed derogatory. + +I do not mean by this description to infer that a crowded table of this +kind is as agreeable as a party whose habits, education, and sympathies, +being on a level, render intercourse a matter of mutual pleasure: what I +would show is, that in this mingling of classes, which is inevitable in +travelling here, there is nothing to disgust or debase man or woman, +however exclusive; for it would really be impossible to feed a like +multitude, of any rank or country, with slighter breaches of decency or +decorum, or throw persons so wholly dissimilar together with less +personal inconvenience either to one class or another. + +I had been accustomed to see this set down as one of the chief nuisances +of travelling in this country, and the consequences greatly exaggerated: +things must have improved rapidly; since, as far as I have hitherto +gone, I protest I prefer the steam-boat arrangements here to our own, +and would back them to be considered less objectionable by any candid +traveller who had fairly tested both. + +During the night it blew fresh, and the vessel pitched a little, the +consequence of which movement was evident in the desertion of the upper +deck in the morning. I had noticed it, the evening previous, occupied by +sundry little groups reading or chatting, and with more than one couple +of merry promenaders: I now made its circuit, meeting with but one +adventurer, a lively-looking old gentleman, of whom I inquired where all +our passengers were vanished to. + +"Most of them in bed yet," said the old gentleman, "or keeping out of +the way in one hole or another. If there's any wind or sea, you always +find the deck pretty clear till we get round Point Judith. Once let us +get to the other side that hill yonder, and you'll see the swarm begin +to muster pretty smart." + +I had often heard "Point Judith" mentioned by the New-Yorkers, as the +Cockney voyager talks of Sea-reach, or the buoy at the Nore; and here it +was close under our lee,--a long, low point of land, with a lighthouse +upon it. + +We soon after opened the entrance to the fine harbour of Newport, and, +as my informant predicted, the deck gradually recovered its population: +some came up because they felt, and others because they were told, we +had passed Point Judith. + +It was about seven o'clock A.M. that we ran alongside the wharf at +Newport to land passengers. The appearance of the town, rising boldly +from the water's edge, was imposing enough; but trade, judging from the +deserted state of the wharves, is now inconsiderable, although formerly +of much importance. + +After a delay of a quarter of an hour, we once more got under weigh; and +one of the chief advantages of a steamer is the ease and facility with +which this important movement is effected: nowhere is the management of +these immense bodies, in my thinking, so perfect: the commanding +position of the wheel, clear of all obstruction, and under the hand of +the pilot, whose finger also directs the machinery below, through the +medium of a few well-arranged bells,--the absence of all bawling and +shouting, and the being independent of transmitted directions, gives +these craft facilities which make their movements appear like +inspiration. + +This system I found prevailing all through the States; and, as far as +possible, it would be well to adopt it here. The arrangement of the +wheel, or steering apparatus, if I remember rightly, was fully and +technically described by Captain Hall. I do not know whether it has in +any case been adopted; but if it were enforced upon our crowded rivers, +there would, I feel assured, be fewer accidents. + +The fogs of the Sound, in this passage,--a highway as much travelled as +the Clyde,--and indeed on all the great American rivers, are only to be +paralleled by a London specimen about Christmas, in addition to the +former being more frequent; yet accidents arising from running foul are +of very rare occurrence, although the desire to drive along is yet +stronger than with ourselves. + +The river up to Providence is of a breadth and character to command the +voyager's attention, but offers little in detail to repay him for it. +With the exception of the time devoted to breakfast, which a supply of +newly-caught fish, taken on board at Newport, rendered a positive treat +to me, I paced the upper deck, according to my custom, until we arrived +at Providence, a very thriving place, seated on a commanding ridge, and +already having, as viewed from the river, an air and aspect quite +city-like. + +Here we found a line of coaches drawn up upon the wharf, awaiting our +arrival. I had already secured a ticket for the Mail Pilot: and in a +few minutes the luggage was packed on; the passengers, four in number, +were packed in; and away we went, rolling and pitching, at the heels of +as likely a team of four dark bays as I would wish to sit behind. At our +first halt, I left the inside to the occupation of my companions,--a +handsome girl, with, "I guess," her lover, and a rough specimen of a +Western hunter or trader, who had already dubbed my younger companion +Captain and myself Major, and invited us both to "liquor with him." I +declined, but _the Captain_, to his evident satisfaction, frankly +accepted his offer; and whilst I mounted the box, and the horses were +changing, they entered the house together. + +This is a courtesy the traveller to the South will find constantly +proffered to him by a class of honest souls, whose good-fellowship +sometimes exceeds their discretion; and I had been told it was not at +all times possible to decline the offer without risking insult. I +discovered by experience this to be one of the numerous imaginary +grievances conjured up to affright the innocent. In this, as in all +other points, I have never departed from my own habits; and although +often in remote parts of the Union strongly urged "to liquor," have +always found my declaration that it was a custom which disagreed with +me, an excuse admitted without hesitation or ill-humour. + +In this, my first experiment, indeed, I had to deal with the most +punctilious specimen I ever afterwards encountered; for when, some two +hours after I had declined his request, I called for a glass of +lemonade, my friend popped his head out of the coach-window, calling out +with a most beseeching air-- + +"Well but, Major, I say; stop till I get out: you'll drink _that_ with +me any how, won't you?" + +He was in the bar-room at my heels in a twinkling, and I need hardly say +we emptied our glasses together very cordially, although their contents +would, I fancy, in my friend's opinion, have assimilated best in a mixed +state; for, giving his _sling_ a knowing twist as I swallowed my +excellent lemonade, he observed: + +"Now that's a liquor I never could bring myself to try nohow, though I'm +sometimes rather speculatin' in drink, when I'm travellin' or out on a +frolic. Poorish stuff, I calculate: but _you_ hav'nt got the dyspepsy, +have you, Major?" + +I assured my friend that I was perfectly free from dyspepsia, and that +it was because I desired to continue so that I avoided any stronger +drink before dinner. + +We were now summoned to our places, my companion declaring-- + +"It is past my logic how lemon and water can prevent dyspepsy better +than brandy and water;" adding, with a look half comic, half serious-- + +"But I suppose everybody will go for the Temperance-ticket soon, and I +shall be forced to clear out of all my spirits; for I never can drink by +myself, if I'm forced to take to the milk and water line for company." + +Our road was a tolerably good one as roads go here, and the horses +excellent. We arrived in Boston about half-past three, having performed +forty miles in five hours, all stoppages included; and the whole +distance from Philadelphia, being three hundred and twenty miles, in +thirty-two hours and a half, including about three hours passed in New +York. Quick as this travelling is, they contemplate, when the railroad +to Providence shall be opened, by the aid of that and an improved +steam-boat, to deduct eight or nine hours from the time between this +and New York. + +Alighting at the Tremont hotel, I found dinner over, as on Sunday they +accommodate the hour of dining to the time of church service: I was, +however, quickly provided with a good meal, which a keen breeze, a long +ride, and a long fast enabled me to do good justice to. In the +afternoon, _malgré_ a cutting east wind, which was anything but +agreeable after the hot weather I had been living in, I took a long walk +about the town, accompanied by an old friend of mine and a +constitutional grumbler, who yet joined with me in declaring that a +first impression of Boston could hardly fail pleasing any man who could +be pleased by a near view of a city, well and substantially built, as it +is undoubtedly nobly situated. + + + + +BOSTON. + + +The approach to Boston, either by sea or land, gives to it an extremely +bold and picturesque character. It is spread over a series of lofty +heights, nearly insulated, and is surrounded by a marshy level running +from the highlands on the main, to which the city is united by a very +narrow isthmus to the southward. + +The lofty dome of its State-house, and the numerous spires and towers of +its churches, rising between two and three hundred feet above the +surrounding level of either land or sea, combine to produce a _coup +d'oeil_ more imposing than is presented by either New York or +Philadelphia. + +The streets of the city generally are narrow and irregular, following +the windings of the lofty hills over which it is spread, and having more +the air of an old English county-town than any place I have yet seen in +the country. + +Its wharfs are spacious and well constructed, and it is not without +surprise that one views the evidently rapid growth of these best +evidences of prosperous commerce. I observed in my walks lines of +substantial granite-built warehouses and quays, newly redeemed from the +water: all were in occupation; tiers of vessels of every kind thronged +them; and the inner harbour was thick with masts. + +The most modern quarter of the city lies to the west, surrounding the +park, or common, as it is termed,--an ancient reserve of some sixty +acres, the property of the citizens, beautifully situated and tastefully +laid out. It is bordered on the lower side by a mall of +venerable-looking elms; has a pretty pond of water under a rising ground +near its centre, the remains of an English fort; and open to the front +is the Charles River. + +On three sides, this common is flanked by very fine streets, having +houses of the largest class, well built, and kept with a right English +spirit as far as regards the scrupulous cleanliness of the entrances, +areas, and windows. The English are a window-cleaning race, and nowhere +have I observed this habit so closely inherited as here. Overlooking +this common, too, is the State-house; and, on a line with it, the +mansion of its patriot founder, Mr. Hancock, a venerable stone-built +edifice, raised upon a terrace withdrawn a few yards from the line of +the present street. The generous character of its first owner has made +this house an object of great interest, and it is to be hoped the +citizens will look carefully to its preservation as a worthy fellow to +Fanieul Hall, for by no one was the "cradle of Liberty"[3] more +carefully tended than by the owner of "Hancock House." + +Here, as in the other great cities of the Union, upon a close survey, I +found the prevailing impression on my mind to be surprise at the +apparent rapidity of increase made manifest in the great number of +buildings either just completed or in progress. If the possession of +inexhaustible supplies of the finest granite, marble, and all other +material, be accompanied with taste and spirit in their use, the future +buildings of this city will have an air of grandeur and stability +superior to those of any other in the States. + +To reach the surrounding country in any direction from the peninsula +the city occupies, one of its great bridges must be crossed. Of these +there are six, besides the Western Avenue as it is called, a dam of vast +extent; and they form the peculiarities of this place, to a stranger, +most curious, and, in truth, most pleasing. By day, they form agreeable +walks or rides, offering a variety of charming views; and, if crossed on +a dark night, when their interminable lines of lamps are beheld +radiating, as it were, from one centre, and multiplied by reflection on +the surrounding waters, the effect is perfectly magical. The stars show +dimly in comparison: and casting your eyes downward, it appears as +though you beheld another and a brighter sky glittering beneath your +feet. + +The great dam rises about five feet above the tide, is provided with +enormous flood-gates, and in length is something over a mile and a half. +The length of the other bridges varies from two thousand five hundred to +one thousand four hundred feet. + +Crossing at any one of these points, you gain the open heights upon the +main. Here you are first struck by the aspect of the soil, everywhere +having huge masses of dark rock protruded above its surface. The +country is said to be poor: of this I cannot judge, but I know it to be +beautiful. It is everywhere undulating, and often broken in the wildest +and most tropical manner. Like the interior of Herefordshire, it is cut +up in all directions by rural lanes, bordered by stone walls and high +hedges, and dotted thickly with handsome houses, whose verandahs of +bright green, and whitened walls, show well amidst the luxuriant foliage +by which they are commonly surrounded. + +About five miles from the city are a couple of delightful pieces of +water, called Jamaica and Fresh-ponds; each bordered by wood, lawn, and +meadow, naturally disposed in the most attractive manner. At the +last-named pond,--which sounds unworthily on my ear when applied to a +piece of water covering a surface of two hundred and fifty acres,--I +passed an afternoon during the period of my first visit here. + +We sailed about, exploring every harbour of the little sea, caught our +fish for dinner, and by the hotel were furnished with a well-broiled +chicken and a good glass of champagne, with ice worthy of being +dissolved in such liquor. I fell premeditatedly in love with the place; +and D----, who was on the look-out for a location, and something hard +to please withal, had already selected a site for building: but, alas! +even Paradise, before the mission of St. Patrick, had serpents; and the +delightful copses and rich meadows of Fresh-pond are, it appears, the +haunts especially favoured by the incarnation of all Egyptian plagues, +musquitoes. + +During the winter this is a great resort of the lovers of _bandy_ and +_skating_; and from this ample reservoir is taken that transparent ice +which gladdens the eyes and cools the throat of the dust-dried traveller +throughout this part of the State. Nor is its grateful service confined +to these limits; for cargoes of it are, during the spring, regularly +shipped to the Havannah, New Orleans, Mobile, &c.; and,--for where will +enterprise find limits?--this very season has a shipment of three +hundred tons of the congealed waters of this pond of Massachusetts been +consigned to Calcutta. Ice floating on the Ganges! How old Gunga will +shiver and shake his ears when the first crystal offering is dropped on +his hot bosom! + +Wild as the idea may at first appear of keeping such a commodity for a +voyage of probably a hundred days in such latitudes, I am informed the +speculator is assured, that with an ordinary run, enough of his cargo +may be landed to pay a good freight.[4] + +Near to this pond lies another favourite spot of mine, "Mount Auburn;" a +tract of woodland, bordering on Charles River, appropriated and +consecrated as a cemetery, on the plan of "Pere la Chaise," but having +natural attributes for such a purpose infinitely superior. It is covered +by a thick growth of the finest forest-trees, of singular variety; and +presents a surface, now gently undulating in hill and dale, now broken +into deep ravines, or towered over by bold rocky elevations; and, +intersecting the whole space from north to south, runs a natural +terrace, having a surface so well and evenly levelled that one almost +doubts its being other than the work of art. + +It takes its name from a lofty eminence, which, rising high over the +surrounding level, commands as fine a view as any spot in the vicinity. +Winding and well-kept avenues intersect the ground in all directions, +giving it an appearance of much greater extent than it in reality +possesses, and rendering the most secluded spot easy of access to those +who desire to + + + "Choose their ground, + And take their rest." + + +The ostentatious mausoleum may be placed by a broad carriage avenue, +where its hollow walls will reverberate to every passing triumph of the +tomb; the quiet and the lowly can build their humbler dwelling in some +secluded nook, bordered by a narrow path the foot of affection alone +will seek to tread, and where no heavier sound will ever echo! + +The perpetual right of sepulture may be purchased of the company whose +property the place is; and already a number of monuments, in marble and +granite, betoken the favour with which this place of "everlasting rest" +is viewed. Most of these monuments are of a simple, unassuming +character, and some of them gracefully appropriate. + +A wooden fence encircles the cemetery, and a lofty gateway leads into +it, of Egyptian fashion, but of the like American material, which, it is +to be presumed, will speedily be superseded by suitable erections of +the fine dark granite found here in abundance. + +This spot, if presided over by anything like taste, must become, in a +very few years, one of the places one might reasonably make a pilgrimage +to look upon; so lavish has Nature been in its adornment, and so +admirably are its accessories fitted to its present purpose. + +Boston and its neighbourhood possess, in the eyes of a British subject, +a number of sites of singular historical interest. + +On Hancock's Wharf that tea-party was held which cost Britain ten +millions of gold, and reft from the empire one quarter of the globe. The +lines of the American army at Cambridge are still to be readily traced +throughout their whole extent; the forts at the extremities, north and +south, are yet perfect in form as when designed by the engineer. + +Across the peninsula, to the west of the isthmus, may be traced the +British lines and the broad deep fosse which, filled by the tide, +insulated the city these were projected to defend: their remains testify +to the care and labour bestowed upon their completion. + +Bunker's Hill and the Breeds, where the first determined stand was made +against the British army, is commanded from the steeples and many +house-tops of the city. + +If the defenders of these miserable lines knew that they were observed +by their kindred on this day, they took, at least, especial care that +the lookers-on should have no cause to blush for their lack of manhood. +Under cover of a hastily thrown-up breastwork, of which no trace +remains, did those hardy yeomen abide and repulse several assaults of a +regular and well-officered force; nor was it until their last charge of +ammunition was delivered that they turned from the defences their +courage alone had made good. The result proved how few charges of theirs +were flung away; these men knew the value of their ammunition, they were +excellent shots, and the word was constantly passed amongst them to +"take sure aim." + +On Bunker's Hill a national monument is in progress, which, when +completed, will form an obelisk of fine granite, according to the +published plan, thirty feet square at the base, two hundred and twenty +feet high, and fifteen feet square at the summit. After considerable +progress had been made in this most durable memorial, the funds ran out +and the work stood still; however, the reproach of its remaining +unfinished is now likely to be speedily removed, for during this last +year, I believe, the necessary sum has been raised, and the national +monument of Massachusetts put _en train_ for completion. + +Below this celebrated hill lies one of the most complete and extensive +navy-yards in the States. At the period of my visit its dry dock was +occupied by a pet ship of the American navy, "the Constitution," or, as +this fine frigate is familiarly called, "Old Ironsides." She was +stripped down to her kelson outside and in, for the purpose of +undergoing a repair that will make her, to all intents, a new ship. + +She is what would now be called a small frigate, but one of the +prettiest models possible as high as the bends; above, she tumbles in a +little too much to please the eye. Nor did her gun-deck appear to me +particularly roomy for her burthen. + +She was logged nearly eleven feet during the whole of the period she was +last afloat, yet is said to have sailed faster than anything she met; +this defect the builders have now remedied, and expect that, on a +straight keel, she will prove the fastest ship afloat. + +I also went on board a seventy-four, employed as a receiving ship; "a +whapper! of her size," low between decks, but with a floor like a barn, +and the greatest beam I ever saw in a two-decker. Here were also on the +stocks a three and a two decker, both to be rated as seventy-fours; the +latter a model of beauty. + +From the roof of the house covering this ship I enjoyed the finest +panoramic view imaginable. Boston, its long bridges, and the great dam +connecting the blue hills of the main with the peninsulas of Boston, and +that on which the populous village of Charleston stands, all lay beneath +the eye on the land side; whilst looking seaward, the inner and outer +harbours, together with their numerous islands, stretched away far +beyond the ken; and, were these islands only wooded, no harbour in the +world would excel this in beauty: at present, though grand, from its +great extent it looks bleak and naked, so completely have the islands +and the surrounding heights been denuded of wood. + +I like this view better than either the one from the dome of the +State-house or that from the summit of Mount Auburn: a few glances from +this point affords one a good practical notion both of the city and the +populous environs, which may be said to form a part of it, besides being +in itself a varied and beautiful picture, viewed, as I first saw it, on +the afternoon of a calm clear day. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[3] Fanieul Hall, so called, the old Town Hall,--a spot dedicated by the +Bostonians to the recollections of their country's first struggle for +independence, and greatly venerated. + +[4] This calculation was more than realised, the loss not exceeding +one-fourth on the whole cargo shipped. The grateful epicures of Calcutta +made an offering of a splendid cup to the merchant, in return for his +spirited speculation, which I believe he has this year (1835) repeated. + + + + +STATE PRISON. + + +Whilst here, I visited the state-prison, the first I had seen where the +Auburn system is pursued; that is, solitary night-cells, silence, and +labour in gangs. The building itself is a fine one, having nearly four +hundred cells, enclosed within external walls, round which run galleries +that command a view of the interior of every cell without disturbing or +annoying the confined; the whole covered by a common roof of the +strongest kind, lighted and ventilated in the best manner. + +The merits of this plan will be fairly set forth long before this trifle +meets the public eye, a commission being now in progress throughout +these States for the purpose of relieving England from the stigma of +having no means of employment in her prisons less brutalizing than the +tread-mill. + +I here saw about two hundred convicts actively employed at various +trades, preparing granite for building, doing smiths' work, making +shoes, brushes, &c.; all very clean, but certainly not looking very +healthy. + +A single overseer went the rounds of each building or department, and +kept the hive in motion, without a word spoken, unless in reference to +the task in hand. Whilst passing through the masons' shed, I noticed two +persons make inquiries of the superintendent: their questions were to +the point, given in few words, but with an air perfectly free and +unrestrained, and were replied to in the like manner. + +Upon the value of this system as a preventive of crime, according to my +view of human nature, I may be allowed to express a doubt, as well as of +its applicability to the condition of Great Britain; but viewing it in +the abstract, without such reference, I confess no philanthropic object +ever struck me as so completely illustrative of the principles of true +benevolence. This was, in fact, returning good for evil, in the most +Christian sense of the word; "chastening as a father chasteneth." It +would appear that a convict must be unnaturally hardened not to quit +this abode a better man. Let him arrive here, however outcast, vile, +ignorant, knowing no honest calling, broken in health and savage in +spirit, here he will find teachers, masters, physicians, all provided +for him by the community whose laws he has violated. His spirit is +soothed, his health is recruited, his ignorance enlightened: he is made +master of a sufficient calling; and, when restored to society, is able +to contrast the value of the meal earned by the honest sweat of his brow +with the bitter fruit of idleness and crime. + +Such is the result contemplated by the benevolent promoters of the +prison system of this country, which everywhere has societies of +voluntary philanthropists who watch over and study to improve it. One is +ashamed, after this, to avow a doubt of its success in practice, since +it almost amounts to an admission that man is indeed the brute our +European legislators appear to think him. + +The subject is, at least, one that demands from England a rigid inquiry, +when we call to mind what a den of debasement, what a sink of soul and +body, a prison yet is amongst the most civilized and humane people in +the world. + + + + +TREMONT HOTEL. + + +My last, though not least, lion of Boston is the "Tremont House," which +being, in my opinion, the very best of the best class of large hotels in +the Union, I shall select as a specimen. + +With externals I have little to do, although the architecture of this +fine building might well claim a particular description: its frontage is +nearly two hundred feet, with two wings about one hundred each in depth: +it is three stories high in front above the basement, and the wings are +each of four stories: the number of rooms, its proprietor informed me, +amount to two hundred, independent of kitchens, cellars, and other +offices: it contains hot and cold baths, and is, in fact, wanting in +nothing essential to the character of a well-contrived hotel. + +The curious part of the affair, however, to a European, and more +especially to an Englishman, is the internal arrangement of such a huge +institution, the machinery by which it is so well and so quietly +regulated. + +Let the reader reflect, that here are two public tables daily, one for +men resident in the house, together with many gentlemen of the city, who +regularly dine here; the other for ladies, or families who have not +private apartments: of the latter there are a dozen, consisting of two +or more chambers attached to each parlour; these are seldom unoccupied, +and have also to be provided for: add to all this an occasional dinner +or supper to large public parties, and he will then be enabled to +appreciate the difficulties and do justice to the system which works as +I shall presently describe. + +At half-past seven A.M. the crash of a gong rattles through the remotest +galleries, to rouse the sleepers: this you may hear or not, just as you +choose; but sound it does, and loudly. Again, at eight, it proclaims +breakfast on the public tables: as I never made my appearance at this +meal, I cannot be expected to tell how it may be attended. The lover of +a late _déjeûner_ may either order his servant to provide one in his own +room, or at any hour, up to noon, direct it to be served in the common +hall: it will, in either case, consist of whatever he may desire that is +in the house. + +At three o'clock, dinner is served in a well-proportioned, well-lighted +room, seventy feet long by thirty-one wide, occupied by two parallel +tables, perfectly appointed, and provided with every delicacy of the +season, well dressed and in great abundance,--the French cooking the +best in the country,--this _par parenthèse_. Meantime, the attendance is +very sufficient for a man not in a "devouring rage," and the wines of +every kind really unexceptionable to any reasonable _gourmet_. + +At this same hour, let it be borne in mind, the same play is playing in +what is called the ladies' dining-room, where they sit surrounded by +their husbands, fathers, brothers, or lovers, as may be; and surely +having no meaner table-service. As for the possessors of an apartment, +these persons order dinner for as many as they please, at what hour they +please, and in what style they please, the which is duly provided in +their respective parlours. + +In the public rooms tea is served at six, and supper at nine o'clock; it +being yet a marvel to me, first, how all these elaborate meals are so +admirably got up, and next, how the plague these good people find +appetite to come to time with a regularity no less surprising. + +It was a constant subject of no little amusement to me to observe a few +of the knowing hands hanging about, as feeding-time drew near, their +ears on the prick and their eyes on the door, which is thrown open at +the first bellow of the gong. + +As to the indecent pushing and driving, so amusingly described by some +travellers, I never saw a symptom of it in any hotel I visited +throughout the country: on the contrary, the absence of extraordinary +bustle and confusion, where such numbers have to be provided for, is not +the least striking part of the affair; and only to be accounted for by +supposing that the habit of living thus together, and being in some sort +accountable to one another, renders individuals more considerate and +courteous than they can afford to be when congregated to feed amongst +us. + +I confess that, at first, a dinner of a hundred, or a hundred and fifty +persons, on a hot day, alarmed me; but, the strangeness got over, I +rather liked this mode of living, and, as a stranger in a new country, +would certainly prefer it to the solitary mum-chance dinner of a +coffee-room. + +By eleven o'clock at night the hive is hushed, and the house as quiet as +any well-ordered citizen's proper dwelling. The servants in this +establishment were all Irish lads; and a civiller or better-conducted +set of boys, as far as the guests were concerned, I never saw, or would +desire to be waited on by. The bar was also well conducted, under the +care of an obliging and very active person; and the proprietor, Mr. +Boydon, or his father, constantly on the spot, both most active in all +matters conducive to the ease and comfort of the visitors. + +This city abounds in charitable institutions, and nowhere have more +princely contributions been made for philanthropic purposes,--witness +the recent gift of Colonel Perkins of a mansion, valued at thirty +thousand dollars, as a permanent asylum for the blind; one of those +institutions most interesting in themselves, and which confer dignity +and honour upon the age and upon human nature. + +The Bostonians are said to be proud of their literary character, and +boast a number of societies whose object it is to justify their claim to +this honourable distinction. The only one I can speak of from personal +observation is the Athenæum, an excellently-supplied reading-room; +having attached to it a library of thirty thousand volumes, a valuable +collection of coins and medals, a gallery for the exhibition of +pictures, and lecture-rooms well furnished with the necessary apparatus +for philosophical and practical illustration. + +This institution is provided for by subscription: the principal portion +of the mansion it occupies being the free gift of the same open hand +which so munificently endowed the asylum for the blind. + +The private literary society here is said to be very superior to that of +any other city of the States, and by no means small. Of society so +called I nothing know, never having had the honour of being admitted of +the community, or indeed having made any attempts upon their proper +realm beyond an occasional rude foray on the border, uncontinued, and +consequently little noted. + +Private intercourse is gay and agreeable, and less restrained by the +exclusive pretension to dress and fashion which prevails in society both +at New York and Philadelphia; whilst, if attractive women are less +numerous here than in those cities, beauty is by no means rare; indeed +Boston boasts of one family whose personal attractions might serve to +sustain the pretensions of a larger population. + + + + +THE TREMONT THEATRE. + + +In the same street, and immediately opposite the great hotel, is the +Tremont Theatre, certainly the most elegant exterior in the country, and +with a very well-proportioned, but not well-arranged _salle_, or +audience part. + +I commenced here on Monday the 30th of September, three days after +closing at Philadelphia, to a well-filled house, composed, however, +chiefly of men, as on my _début_ at New York. My welcome was cordial and +kind in the extreme; but the audience, although attentive, appeared +exceedingly cold. On a first night I did not heed this much, especially +as report assured me they were very well pleased; but throughout the +week this coldness appeared to me to increase rather than diminish, and +so much was I affected by it, that, notwithstanding the houses were very +good, I, on the last day of my first engagement of six nights, declined +positively to renew it, as was the custom in such cases, and as, in +fact, the manager and myself had contemplated: on this night, however, +the aspect of affairs brightened up amazingly; the house was crowded; a +brilliant show of ladies graced the boxes; the performances were a +repetition of two pieces which had been previously acted, and from first +to last the mirth was electric; the good people appeared, by common +consent, to abandon themselves to the fun of the scene, and laughed _à +gorge deployée_. At the fall of the curtain, after, in obedience to the +call of the house, I had made my bow, the manager announced my +re-engagement; and from this night forth I never met a merrier or a +pleasanter audience. + +It was quite in accordance with the character ascribed to the +New-Englanders that they should coolly and thoroughly examine and +understand the novelty presented for their judgment, and that, being +satisfied and pleased, they should no longer set limits to the +demonstration of their feelings. + +In matters of graver import they have always evinced the like deliberate +judgment and apparent coldness of bearing; but beneath this prudential +outward veil they have feelings capable of the highest degree of +excitement and the most enduring enthusiasm. + +I do not agree with those who describe the Yankee as a naturally +cold-blooded, selfish being. From both the creed and the sumptuary +regulations of the rigid moral censors from whom they sprung, they have +inherited the practice of a close self-observance and a strict attention +to conventional form, which gives a frigid restraint to their air that +nevertheless does not sink far beneath the surface. + +A densely-populated and ungrateful soil has kept alive and quickened +their natural gifts of intelligence and enterprise, whilst the shifts +poverty imposes upon young adventure may possibly at times have impelled +prudence to degenerate into cunning. But look at their history as a +community; they have been found ever ready to make the most generous +sacrifices for the commonwealth. In their domestic relations they are +proverbial as the kindest husbands and most indulgent fathers; whilst as +friends they are found to be, if reasonably wary, at least steadfast, +and to be relied on to the uttermost of their professions. + +I can readily understand a stranger, having any share of sensibility, +not liking a people whose observances are so peculiar and so decidedly +marked; but I do think it impossible for an impartial person to spend +any time in the country, or have any close intercourse with the +community, without learning to respect and admire them, _malgré_ their +calculating prudence, and the many prejudices inseparable from a system +of education even to this day sufficiently narrow and sectarian. + +As far as my personal experience is worthy of consideration, I must +declare that some of the kindest, gentlest, and most hospitable friends +I had, and, I trust I may add, have, in the Union, were natives of +New-England, or, as they say here, "real Yankee, born and raised within +sight of the State-house of Bosting." + + + + +JOURNAL. + + +_Oct. 20th, New York._--Began my second engagement here,--the weather +divine. Procured a very good hack at Tattersal's, and daily "skir the +country round." The environs of this city possess more variety of +scenery than one would suppose from a cursory glance at the country, +which appears tame and unbroken. The river views are most attractive to +me. + +Rode to the race-course on Long Island, this being the period of the +"Fall Meeting," as it is termed. The assemblage thin on the first +day--Appointments of the negro jockeys more picturesque than +race-like,--ill-fitted jackets, trousers dirty, and loose, or +stocking-net pantaloons ditto, but tight, with Wellingtons over or +under, according to the taste of the rider; or shoes without stockings, +or stockings without shoes, as weight may be required or rejected. They +sit well forward on to the withers of the horses; do not seem over +steady in their saddles, but cling like monkeys, their whole +sleight-of-hand appears to consist of a dead pull; and their mode of +running, with their time for lying back or making play, seems to be +entirely governed by their masters, who, on a mile-course, they must +frequently pass in heats, and who appear ever on the alert to direct +them. + +After the running, which was indifferent, went to see "Paul Pry," a +trotting-horse of Mr. M'Leod's, now in training to do a match of +eighteen miles in the hour.[5] With the exception of a few scratches on +one of his legs, he looked in slapping order; a powerful grey horse, +just sixteen hands, with a fine countenance, and appearing to be nearly, +if not quite, thorough-bred. + +_Second day._--Witnessed a good race, which a little mare, called +Trifle, won in two four-mile heats. She had, on a former occasion, run +four heats, or twenty miles, over the central course at Baltimore, and +was beaten by one of her present competitors, a fine mare called Black +Maria. Trifle is very little, but powerfully put together, and +exceedingly handsome; her only drawback being a pair of mulish-looking +ears. She has uncommon speed, and is one of the steadiest and smoothest +gallopers I ever saw go over turf. + +I, at the start, took a great fancy to the little pet, and backed her +even against the other two horses for a dozen of gloves with my friend +Mr. C----n. By the close of the second heat our bet had increased +ninefold,--Next morning received a box containing nine dozen of French +gloves. It will be my duty henceforth to back Trifle. + +_October 29th._--The city yet crowded with strangers; every hotel full. + +Find out that I am No. 1. in this enormous house; the first time I ever +could boast such an honour, and now am by no means certain that it is +worth the labour it imposes, since it leads me a dance to the third +story: however, it is an excellent room, very large, and removed from +the bustle below; the sound of the dustman-like bell, which calls the +house to meals, barely reaches my ear. I often catch myself parodying +poor Maturin's lines, which I have applied to this unpoetical grievance, +and concluded most impotently-- + + + ----"Bell echoes bell, + Meal follows meal, + Till the ear aches for the last welcome summons + That tolls an end to the day's cookery." + + +At this time there cannot be far short of one hundred and fifty persons +dining daily in the public room: did I desire to dine at it, however, +the hospitality of my friends I find would render this impracticable. + +_November 3rd._--Dined at Harlaem, a pretty village eight miles from the +city, but daily drawing closer to it. Here a certain Mrs. Bradshaw fries +chickens in a _sauce tartarre_, to the which could pen of mine do +justice, "I guess" I know folk "our side" the water who would be +stealing across to Harlaem some fine day to dine. We had tarapins too, +of whose excellence most unfortunates in Europe, happily for their poor +wives and innocent children, are ignorant. + +On our way home halted at Cato's, and discussed the comparative merits +of hail-storm and julep, demonstrating our arguments by the practical +experiments of this distinguished spirituous professor. + +The day deliciously genial, and the night like a fine harvest-moon at +home. Of a verity this American autumn, or fall, as they call it, is a +most delicate season. + +_Friday, 8th._--Up with the lark, and, accompanied by Captain D----n, +got on board the steamer for Philadelphia, _viâ_ Amboy. + +The morning was clear, with a warm sun just tempered by a breeze balmy +and soft: the packet was crowded, and our passage across the harbour a +pleasure to remember. We were soon, however, to have all the happy +recollections of this journey miserably blotted out by one of the most +fearful accidents I ever beheld. + +At Amboy we took the railroad; and every one was delighted to find that +the locomotives were now in operation, anticipating a quick and pleasant +ride to Bordentown. For a time all went well: various surmises were made +as to our rate; some calculated it at twenty miles in the hour; D----n +and the Belgian minister, Baron de B----r, were disputing the point, +watch in hand, when an alarm was given from the rear: our attention was +quickly arrested by loud cries to "stop the engine," coming from the +windows of every carriage in the train. + +On the halt being accomplished, the carriages were deserted in a moment; +for it was discovered that one of those in the rear had been overturned +in consequence of the axle breaking,--its occupants' fate as yet +unknown. + +I was soon on the spot, and what a scene was here to witness! Out of +twenty-four persons only one had escaped unhurt. One man was dead, +another dying, and five others had fractures, more or less serious; a +couple of ladies (sisters) dreadfully wounded; the children of one of +them, two little girls, with broken limbs. + +Never were sufferers more patient; one of them was a surgeon, a fine +young fellow, who immediately set about doing the best his skill could +accomplish for those most desperately hurt. D----n and I volunteered as +his assistants; and with such splints as the shattered panels of the +carriage supplied, the fractured limbs were bound up. + +It was a melancholy task; but this gallant fellow stuck to it until he +saw such of his patients as it was possible to remove disposed of in one +of the baggage-cars, emptied for this purpose. I had, in the course of +his task, frequently observed him pause, as though either faint, or +finding some difficulty in the act of stooping, which was constantly +required; but it was not until he had seen the last of his +fellow-sufferers disposed of to his best ability that he examined his +own condition, when it was discovered that two of his ribs were broken. + +It was full three hours before the wounded could be removed from the +sandy bank on which they had been stretched; and it was an afflicting +thing to see them lying here, bloody and disfigured, exposed to the +glare of a hot sun, without the possibility of procuring them shelter; +for we were some miles from the nearest village when the accident +occurred. + +The ex-president, Mr. Quincy Adams, was in the carriage immediately +attached to the one overturned: by his direction an inquest was held +upon the deceased before we departed; and, this being concluded, the +train once more moved forward, but with a character mournfully altered +since our first departure. + +We found the steam-boat yet in waiting at Bordentown; and, bearing with +us those of the wounded who could proceed so far, we reached +Philadelphia at a late hour in the afternoon, with such a freight as I +trust may never again visit its wharves. + +_Saturday._--Called to inquire after such of our wounded +fellow-passengers as we could trace. The lady so severely hurt +pronounced out of all danger; and her dear baby still living, with hopes +of saving it. A man with numerous fractures, who had been left behind, +report says, is relieved by death from all farther suffering. + +This is the first serious accident that has occurred upon this line, +which appears to be most carefully conducted; one of the active +proprietors or more--the Messrs. Stevens, men of great prudence and +practical skill--being constantly upon the road, and personally +supervising every department connected with both boats and railway. + +_Sunday, 10th._--At six A.M. departed for Baltimore, _viâ_ the Delaware +and Newcastle railroad: the day was cloudless, and as warm as it is in +England in June. I often, on these bright days, think of my good folk in +Kent,--clouds and fog without, and sea-coal fire within: no bad +substitute for a sun, by the way, after all; especially after one has +had a sniff of the anthracite coal used in the close stoves here, an +atmosphere which dread of freezing only could reconcile me to. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[5] Which he shortly after won with ease, and was backed on the ground +to perform nineteen, and twenty. No takers. + + + + +BALTIMORE. + + +The day upon which I first approached this city would have given a charm +even to desolation. It was on the tenth of November; the air elastic, +but bland as on a fine June morning at home; the temperature was about +the same too, but attended with a clearness of atmosphere in all +quarters that seldom falls out within our islands. + +The passage down the Elk river is quite beautiful: the shores on either +hand are bold and undulating; the country finely wooded; the banks +indented by numerous bays and inlets, whose jutting capes so intersect +each other that in several reaches the voyager is, as it were, +completely land-locked, and might imagine himself coasting about some +pretty lake. + +We neared the well-closed harbour amidst a fleet of some hundred and +fifty sail, of all sizes and of every variety of rig, from the simple +two-sailed heavy sloop to that perfection of naval architecture, the +Clipper schooner of Baltimore, with her long tapering masts raking over +her taffrail, and her symmetrical hull fairly leaping out of water, as +though she moved from wave to wave by a succession of graceful bounds +rather than held her course by cleaving a pathway through them, as did +her more cumbrous fellows. + +The eye was charmed and the heart elevated by these unequivocal +evidences of thriving commerce sweeping towards the city; which rises +gradually, as it spreads over the face of the irregular hill it +occupies. Several domes of considerable magnitude, a tall column or two, +with various towers and spires, rendered conspicuous from the nature of +the site, invest it with an air of much importance, and have gained for +it the title of the City of Monuments. + +The main street, like that of Boston, has very much the look of an +English county-town; and the air of the shops is wholly English. I +wandered about here guided by curiosity and caprice,--the only cicerone +I ever desire,--and saw most things worthy note. I attended service at +the cathedral, where I heard mass admirably performed, for in this +choir are several voices of a very high order. + +The interior of the church is good; the altar most worthily fitted up; +and the general effect would be imposing were it not marred by the +introduction of regular lines of exceedingly comfortable but most +uncatholic-looking pews, with the which, I confess, I felt so vexed, +that I could have found in my heart, Heaven pardon me! to have wished +them fairly floating in the bay, only for the delicate creatures who sat +within them, on whose transparent brows and soft dark eyes it was +impossible to look and breathe a wish or harbour a thought of evil. + +I next mounted the Washington column, as it is called, and beheld a +sunset from its top that would have well recompensed a poet or painter +for a journey over "the broa-a-d At-álantic," as poor Incledon used to +emphasize it. + +This is a noble column and splendidly put together, of workmanship and +material calculated to endure,--lasting, unimpeachable by time or +change, as is the fame of the patriot to whose virtues it is well +inscribed; but the statue itself is bad, ineffective, and in no +situation or distance I could discover at all like the great original, +whose personal characteristics were nevertheless striking, and well +adapted for the artist. + +The inverted bee-hive too, which is overturned on the head of the +capital, for the purpose, as it were, of hoisting the figure a little +higher, is in bad taste, and detracts from the plainness of the column, +which, if divested of both bee-hive and figure, would be an object +worthy to commemorate the citizen Washington, in whose character +simplicity gave lustre to the grandeur with which it was happily +blended; softening and chastening it, and making him, even in the +sternest times, more loved than feared. + +I rode hard for a few hours to the north and west of the city, +accompanied by a Scotch friend; in the course of which ride we dived +down some wooded glens, and crossed some rock-strewn brooks, that called +to his memory the brawling waters of his own rugged land,--so +constantly, at all times and in all places, is the wanderer's mind +prepared to veer homeward. + +I have sometimes smiled at the total absence of similarity between the +distant original and the subject that has served to challenge +comparison. In this case, however, there was, in my mind, good ground +enough for the recollection: at one spot, in particular, we broke from +a thickly-wooded hill side that we had for some time been blindly +threading, and found ourselves just over a clear pebbled stream, skirted +on the opposite bank by a fair fresh meadow, itself bounded again by a +wooded height yet more stony and steep than that by which we sought to +descend: on our right, in an angle of the meadow, stood a farmhouse, +roughly built of grey-stone and lime, surrounded by numerous offices; +and, lower down the brook, a mill of similar character. + +After a long look upon this pretty sequestered spot, we descended to the +bed of the stream, and found a railroad already skirting its course. + +Passing the mill by a bridle-path, we here saw the bed of our little +brook, fallen far beneath, tossing, raging, and whirling its way amongst +great masses, and tumbling over the rocky ledges dividing smooth beds of +close black gneiss. Yet a little lower, we struck a road leading over a +bridge, by which we re-crossed the now important current; and hence the +upward view was as glen-like, gloomy, and wild as Scottish imagination +could desire. + + +BALTIMORE. + + +JOURNAL CONTINUED. + + +_Monday, 11th._--Find other Richmonds in the field, the Kembles being +announced also, for to-night, at the Holiday Theatre, under the +management of Mr. De Camp: I occupying "Front Street," with what is +termed the regular Baltimore company. My front will prove in the rear, I +fear. + +This _untoward_ meeting was purely accidental; a thing not desired or +premeditated by either party: my interest and inclination making it +desirable that I should give these attractive objects to the rest of the +world, what sailors term, "a wide berth." Shame that I should say so, +and a lady concerned too! + +_The Front Street._--A huge theatre, nearly as large as Covent-Garden. +At night, I found there was indeed ample space "and verge enough." My +clients, however, were uproariously merry, and made up for half an +audience by bestowing upon the performance a double allowance of +applause. + +_Tuesday, 12th_--At 'em again!--"the Holiday" against "the Front!" I +have discovered that the _people_ are with _us_; "the Holiday" being +considered the aristocratic house, and "the Front," being, indeed, the +work of an opposition composed of the sturdy democracy of the good city. + +The manager says that last night our side was taken by surprise, but +that now our forces are afoot. The worst of my case is, that I am +compelled, _mal-gré bon-gré_, to laugh at my "beggarly account of empty +boxes:" my tragic rivals may, at least, have the satisfaction of +lowering upon their empty pit. But the _people_ are for us, consequently +the right is with us; _ergo_, we must prevail. + +_Eight o'clock_ P.M.--A narrower selvage round the vast area of our +_parterre_. "Front Street" for ever! + +_Wednesday, 12th._--I, this night at least, had the satisfaction of +seeing my antagonists; for in the side-box I spied Messrs. Kemble and De +Camp laughing to my teeth. I would have forgiven this, and joined with +the wags, had my forces been assembled; but the musters on our side I +find are not yet quite complete. + +_Tuesday, 18th._--The struggle continued until yesterday without either +party being able to claim an absolute victory; nor is it for me now to +record a triumph, since I left the allies yet camping on the field, +whilst on their part they must at least admit that I marched off with +all the honours of war. + +This day returned to Philadelphia--weather yet unbroken. Reached Mr. +Head's in time to come in with the dinner. + +_Wednesday, Nov. 20th._--Took a long walk round the city; the weather +fine. About midday Chestnut-street assumed quite a lively and very +attractive appearance, for it was filled with shopping-parties of +well-dressed women, and presented a sprinkling of carriages neatly +appointed and exceedingly well horsed. + +Satisfied that I am correct in my judgment, when I assert that this +population has the happiness to possess an unusual share of handsome +girls. They walk with a freer air and more elastic step than their fair +rivals of New York; have clear brunette complexions, and eyes of great +beauty. + +The theatre very full, and the dress-boxes containing a large +proportion of ladies. + +_21st._--On horseback early; crossed the Schuylkill, over the Manayunk +bridge, and back by the right bank of the river. The piers of a viaduct, +about to be thrown from the opposite heights by the Lancaster Rail-road +Company, already much elevated since my first visit here in September. +Highly beneficial to the community, no doubt; but destructive of the +repose and seclusion of this charming scene. The sweetest spots, and +such as one would most desire to conserve, seem to be always the places +peculiarly selected for these useful but most unpicturesque invasions. + +_23rd._--Visited the dock-yard in company with Lieutenant I----d. A +three-decker, classed according to law as a seventy-four, almost ready +to be sent off the stocks--a noble ship. A frigate is housed close by +her, but looks a mere toy when one views it immediately after having +contemplated the proportions of the Pennsylvania. This dockyard is +smaller, and in appearance inferior every way to that of Boston. + +_27th._--Having exhausted all the rides in the immediate neighbourhood, +I this day determined upon widening my circle; so went, accompanied by +K----r, about fifteen miles up the Delaware by the Bristol road. + +On the way-side we halted to look upon a mansion, made memorable for +ever by one of those wild atrocities, the details of which indeed +appear, upon review, fitter for the pages of romance than for a journal +of every-day life, yet too striking to be heard and forgotten, or passed +by without comment. I must only premise, that the affair I am about to +describe is of recent occurrence, and strictly true in all its horrible +details. + + + + +THE TEMPERANCE HOUSE. + + +Within these three years the house in question was inhabited by its +builder, a respectable citizen, together with his wife, a woman of much +intelligence, and possessed of considerable beauty, though no longer +young. They had for many years kept a creditable academy; but had, a +short time before the commencement of this relation, retired with ample +means from the exercise of their honourable profession, built this +house, and with an only child, a handsome girl of sixteen, here dwelt, +as far as their neighbours could judge, contented and happy. It is +certain that they were well considered and respected by all who knew +anything of them. + +One afternoon, whilst the master was busied in his garden before the +house, a passing wayfarer halted by his fence, and besought some +refreshment. The accent of the stranger was foreign, and his aspect and +whole appearance, although haggard and miserably needy, still bore +evidence of better days, as his address did of gentle condition. + +After a moment's questioning, Mr. C---- asked the hungered and weary +traveller to enter his house; and, with the hospitable promptitude of +country life, a comfortable meal was set before him. + +Before another hour had elapsed, so strongly did the stranger's story of +himself interest the kind nature of his host, this act of common charity +was succeeded by an invitation to him to remain for a few days as the +guest of the house, which was thankfully accepted. + +Senhor Mina, for this was the guest's name, was, as he said, a political +exile, and having strong claims of a pecuniary kind upon the American +government, he was on his way to the capital to prosecute them; when, +through a total failure of his resources, he became exposed to the +misery and want from which this providential chance had so happily +rescued him. His appearance at this point arose from his inability to +pay his fare on board the steam-boat; where some altercation taking +place between him and the captain, who charged him with a design to +cheat, it ended in his being summarily set ashore to make the best of +his way to the end of his journey. + +The senhor was a scholar, was intelligent, and, what was better, +interesting, having visited many lands, and encountered many of the +adventurous perils of war and travel. He was here a penniless soldier in +"the land of the brave"--a friendless exile for liberty in the "home of +the free." He talked well; and by his enthusiastic discourses in favour +of equality and independence,--topics which possess a charm for most +American ears,--he quickly gained an interest in the best feelings of +his honest host. He sang as all Spaniards sing, and touched the guitar +as only Spaniards can; and with this artillery won yet more suddenly the +love of his host's frail wife. + +Time passed rapidly in a little circle so happily constituted to banish +tedium: nor was business wanting to occupy a due share, for the senhor +despatched many letters; and, having established a correspondence with +the foreign-office, the necessity for his own presence at the seat of +government next became manifest. This was no sooner made known to Mr. +C---- than ample means were placed at Senhor Mina's disposal; when, with +the best wishes of the whole family, he took a short farewell of +Pennsylvania. + +The absence of the interesting stranger was signalized by a change in +the habits and condition of this household as sudden as that which had +attended his first introduction to it. Mrs. C---- grew gradually +fretful, restless, and anxious; which might well be, for her husband was +on a sudden laid up with sickness, and their only child studiously +shunned their society, locking herself within her chamber, or moping +about the grounds she had so lately bounded over in the buoyancy of +health and happy youth. + +The sequel was not long in arriving: the sick man daily grew worse and +weaker; and his wife, as was perfectly natural, daily grew more wretched +and impatient. She was assiduous to a jealous degree in the performance +of her duties and close attendance on her husband's bed; she mixed his +medicines, prepared his food and such diluents as were considered best +calculated to allay the fever that for ever burned him up. With his hand +within her's, she watched his last agonies, which were protracted and +extreme; and received from his lips grateful acknowledgments of her +unwearied kindness, and his dying blessing. + +So far all went unsuspectedly and well: for one month the widow lived +unseen and retired, as became a sorrowing woman; but about the end of +that period, to the great surprise of the neighbourhood, she was made +again a bride by the grateful stranger, Senhor Mina. + +And now it was that men began to shake their heads and find their +tongues; comments upon the shameless precipitancy of this wedding were +everywhere heard, mixed up with strange surmises, and suspicions too +horrible to remain long suppressed. + +Curious inquiries were next made amongst the domestics, and one servant +girl quickly called to mind having noticed a sediment in the remains of +a basin of soup prepared by her mistress for the sick man, which having +been thrown to the poultry, together with some of the rice, these had +all since withered and died; nay, a hardy hog even, whose portion had +been small, with difficulty weathered an attack of sickness which had +quickly followed. + +A legal inquiry was next demanded by the roused public, upon which such +strong evidence appeared as to render the exhumation of the body +necessary: the contents of the stomach were yet in a condition to admit +of chemical analyzation, and the exhibition of a large portion of +arsenic was by these means proven past doubt. + +The unconscious senhor--with whom, during this part of the process, they +had prevented the miserable woman holding any communication--was +meantime busily prosecuting his affairs, whatever they were, amidst the +gaieties of Washington. One night, upon his return from a public ball, +he was arrested by an officer who had just reached his quarters with a +criminal warrant, taken back to the scene of his ingratitude, and, +together with the partner of his crime, put upon trial for the murder of +his benefactor. + +The guilt of both parties was established, I believe, beyond a doubt; +but some legal loophole was found by which the woman was permitted to +elude the capital punishment, and condemned to live. The ungrateful +guest was sentenced to be hanged: shortly before the time of execution +he made full confession of his having planned and instigated the +poisoning of his unsuspecting host, and died the death of an assassin. + +Here is a suite of horrors, plainly and briefly set down, sufficient to +supply stuff for any murder-loving three-volume novelist; yet is there +one other, and that not least, to be added; for it appeared in the +progress of the trial, and time in the ordinary course confirmed this +evidence, that the poor child, the daughter of the murderess, had fallen +a victim to the lust of this devil, Mina. + +The fate of the girl and her infant I could not rightly learn; all that +was known, indeed, being her removal to some distant part of the +continent. The mother, it was believed, yet resided within the walls her +guilt has made for ever infamous. + +The house is always pointed out to the passing stranger, and was, when I +saw it, no unfit monument of its owner's crime, and the curse which so +quickly followed on it. Its fences were thrown down, its outhouses in +ruin, the paths about it overgrown with filthy weeds; and the latticed +window-shutters, once gay as green paint could make them, now dirty and +broken, were left to swing loose from every wall. Still, evidences of +its being inhabited were exhibited about the yard, where a dog and a few +fowls lay basking; and suspended from the branch of a blighted tree, +standing near the fallen entrance-gate, hung an ill-inscribed sign, +bearing the inscription "_Temperance House_" in large characters. + +A singular change,--the abode of the grossest lust, and the scene of the +foulest murder, perhaps, ever combined in the full catalogue of crime, +changed into a temple to Temperance. + + + + +JOURNAL. + + +_Sunday, December 1st._--A little cloudy, but mild and pleasant. We have +up to this date no severe weather; and, indeed, with the exception of +now and then a day not colder than some which we experienced in +September, have had no remembrancer of the approach of frost: but I +fancy old father Winter "'bides his time," and will not spare us when +his icy wings are once loosed upon the north-east wind. + +Rode to German Town, and down the ravine of the Wisihissing. A stranger, +looking over the continuous level which is presented to his view on a +first glance at the country surrounding Philadelphia, has many pleasant +surprises in store, if he be of an errant habit and much given to +exploration; since there are several ravines of singular wildness in +this vicinity, having bridle-paths connecting them with the different +roads, and a great deal of broken country, whose variety well repays the +adventurous equestrian. + +This is a mode of proceeding I would counsel every traveller to follow +who desires to become well acquainted with the general character of a +country, as but little of this can be known from a hasty drive along the +common line of road. Never let the idea of being badly mounted deter a +man from this experiment; but let him send for the best hack that the +place may afford, or, what is a better plan, go and see after one. + +In America, although all the nags thus procured may not prove the +smoothest goers in the world, they will uniformly be found strong and +well up to their work. Only let the stranger acquire the habit of +getting into saddle with promptitude on arriving at a strange place, and +more may be seen of its neighbourhood, and known of its condition, by +this means, in a morning foray or two, than a month of idling will +compass. + +_Saturday, 14th._--Back again to Baltimore to act in Front-street the +same night. + +A clear cold morning until about midday, when it became overcast, with +some rain and wind, which, just as we cleared the Elk river, was +exchanged for snow. Not an inch of our way did we see after this: the +boat was frequently stopped, and soundings carefully made; our speed +was reduced to the slowest possible pace, and every precaution taken +that prudence could suggest to the experience of our captain. Night came +on, however, and we had the pleasant prospect of passing it in the bay +of the Chesapeake, or on one of the shoals, or shores, about us, when +happily our look-out got a momentary glimpse of Fort M'Henry, which we +were about to pass to the southward. Had we done so, we must in a short +time have grounded in the Patapsco, there to rest for the coming clear +weather: as it was, a short time saw us snug in harbour, although we +could hardly see ourselves when we got there. + +I was too late for Front-street, a circumstance which I did not regret, +remembering its situation and the state of the weather, but consoled +myself readily over a canvass-back duck and a tumbler of +Monongahela,--when old, equal, if mixed with hot water, even to +Innishtowen; at least I remember I thought so on this occasion. + +Retired early to my room, intending to read for an hour, having observed +a cheery-looking fire in it whilst changing my wet things. It was +exceedingly cold without; the snow fell thick, and the sight of a grate +full of cinders, glowing like lumps of iron at red heat, was especially +enlivening. I sat down to read, but in a few minutes found my eyes +become strangely dim: after a vain attempt to clear them by ablution, I +resigned my book, gave way to the headache and weariness, which grew +worse every minute, and got into my bed, concluding these unpleasant +symptoms were occasioned by previous cold and exposure to the weather. + +I lay down, but to rest was impossible; my temples throbbed, the veins +became swollen and tense, whilst my breathing grew short and difficult: +getting at last a little alarmed, and, indeed, fearing a fainting fit, I +rose to ring for my servant; but not finding the bell, opened my +chamber-door with the intention of seeking some assistance. + +I had not proceeded many steps down the passage before I felt my illness +abate, in a manner quite as sudden and strange as its advance had been; +my sight became clear, my pulse grew regular, my breathing natural; and +after a momentary pause, almost of doubt at this rapid restoration to +health and ease, I retraced my steps to my chamber, feeling glad that I +had not communicated a false alarm in a house where two or three sudden +deaths, from what was called cholera, had already predisposed the +inmates to be nervous. + +On re-entering my room, the cause of my late symptoms became manifest in +the first breath I inhaled of the atmosphere; even as it now was, +comparatively purified by a current of fresh air, the gaseous smell +continued disagreeable and distressing. + +I sent for the fireman of the hotel,--that is, the person so called who +lights and looks after the hundred fires going in one of these +establishments: he was a countryman and a staunch personal friend; and, +after hearing my story and removing the anthracite coal, he pledged +himself never to burn anything but wood in my chamber for the time to +come. + +I next questioned my friend as to whether he had ever before known any +person as severely affected from the same cause. He said he had heard +gentlemen complain now and again, "But the cowld soon makes them get +used to it," said Pat; adding, that most persons left a little of the +window open if the weather permitted. + +This was my first and last experiment with this coal, which is +nevertheless burned almost universally in the north, though they have +abundance of fine Nova Scotia coal, that appears little inferior to the +best Lancashire. Liverpool coal is a good deal used in New York; but the +ladies give the preference uniformly to the anthracite, which does not +yield much dust or black smoke, and consequently preserves for a longer +period both furniture and dress: it also renders a room quickly and +equally warm without requiring attendance, when once lighted, burning +constantly with a red heat, and fiercely or otherwise in proportion to +the draft, which all the stoves here permit to be regulated at will. + +Nevertheless, I think all its advantages are nothing when weighed +against the injurious effect the atmosphere it generates must have upon +the health of those constantly within its influence. + +It may, with great advantage, be used for hall-stoves, for heating +air-pipes, or in situations where there is a ready circulation of air; +but ought not, I think, to be continued in the drawing-rooms of families +or in the chambers of the studious. + +_Sunday, 15th._--The snow lying about a foot deep in the streets, but in +places drifted to a great height: numbers of make-shift sleighs already +jingling about the town, Baltimore having precedence of the northern +cities this year in an amusement not often enjoyed here. + +I had a trial of the sleigh for a couple of hours; and in company with a +fat friend was bumped over the gutters through the soft snow,--for on it +we could not be said to ride,--whilst every inequality of the streets +was made evident to our bones. + +This is a species of amusement into which the Northerns enter with a +spirit of positive enthusiasm: man, woman, and child all talk of, and +look forward to, the arrival of sleighing-time as a season of the +highest festivity. In New York, I am told, the first heavy fall of snow +brings even business to a stand-still, and the whole population is seen +whirling over the streets in every description of vehicle that can be +lifted off its wheels and lodged upon runners. + +The regular fancy sleighs I have frequently examined: they are +tastefully and comfortably built, and fitted up with all sorts of +furs,--skins of bear and buffalo, and various other beasts; are lined +and betasseled in a way that renders them quite beautiful; and might +defy the recognition of their nearest of kin. + +_18th._--The snow has vanished wholly, and the weather is again mild as +spring: the Southerners yet lingering here upon the confines of the +north are, however, alarmed by this early demonstration of the absence +of winter so far south, and daily set off for their yet sunny abodes in +Georgia, the Carolinas, Alabama, or Louisiana. + +Our excellent table is gradually thinning off; and King David's labour, +as grand carver, is daily abridged. We this day had a haunch of Virginia +venison, with fat an inch and half deep, the flavour equal to anything I +ever ate: it is the first fat venison I have seen in the country. +Canvass-back still in abundance, and not to be wearied of. This, I find, +is the true place to eat these rare birds: their case is well understood +here, and they are treated to a nicety. + +_Saturday, 21st._--Back to Philadelphia, on my way to New York--will +pass this night in the City of Squares, and Sunday--the day positively +warm; observed, however, a thin flaking of ice stealing over the shaded +surface of the Elk river. + +_Monday, 23rd._--Once more in New York, _viâ_ the Delaware and Raritan. +Although on Sunday it was feared that these rivers would be closed with +ice, we had only a little coating of Jack Frost to break through, +suffering no detention, and found the bay perfectly free; arriving here +about three o'clock. + +_27th._--Walked to the top of Broadway, which has lost much of its +crowd, but is yet quite bustling enough to be a very lively and pleasant +lounge. + +Went into the Episcopalian church near the Park, the graves of +Montgomery and Emmett being the chief attraction: the monuments erected +to their memories stand outside, close upon the street. Just as I turned +out of the gate, after having read the inscription upon the monument of +the latter, I was joined by R----t, who gave me an interesting account +of the last meeting of the devoted brothers. + +Thomas Emmett being at Rotterdam, after his release from Fort George, on +his way to the United States, chanced to be in waiting for his letters +at the post-office, when a man stepping from the crowd threw himself +into his arms with exclamations of glad recognition: it was his brother +Robert, just arrived from Paris, and attending here on a like errand. + +"And from whence come you?" demanded Robert, the first congratulations +being past. + +"Just escaped from poor Ireland," replied the senior brother; adding, +"and whither are you now bound?" + +"Just escaping to poor Ireland," was the reply. + +The meeting was a short one; Robert would listen to no word of +accompanying his family in their exile. He declared his only desire was +either to procure for his country even justice, and freedom from neglect +and oppression, or for himself a grave, and oblivion of her people's +sufferings and degradation. + +The brothers parted here, never again to meet. Robert quickly found the +fate he courted, and sleeps beneath the soil he died for,--mistakingly +it may be, but neither unwept, unpitied, nor unsung. + +The senior pursued his more prudent course, and landed with his wife and +children in this city, unknown, and having slight recommendation beyond +his misfortunes and his country; these, however, proved all-sufficient +to procure for him the sympathy and respect of the citizens from whom he +sought adoption. He rested amongst them, became one of them, and lived +to see his children standing with the best and most esteemed of the +country. + +In the fulness of his honours Thomas Addis Emmett died, and on the most +conspicuous part of Broadway stands the obelisk of marble reared in +honour of his memory, and bearing testimony to the high talent and the +many virtues of the Irish exile, the banished rebel, or the unsuccessful +patriot; for the terms are yet unhappily considered by some as +synonymous, and may be selected by each according to his political +creed. By his family and associates, however, he appears to have been +truly beloved, and by all men to have been viewed as an upright citizen +and a most able counsel; his eloquence at the bar being still the theme +of frequent enthusiastic eulogium. + +This night went to a dance at the hospitable house of Mr. C----ne, the +first occasion which afforded me a view of the New York belles in +society. The party was not large, but there were several very pretty +women, and waltzing and music alternated in charming succession: there +were two ladies who sang with infinite taste and sweetness, and we kept +it up until rather a late hour for a sober country. My impression of the +New York women is, that they are frank, lively, and intelligent, with +much gentleness in their manners and address: in short, that these were +very amiable and attractive specimens of their sex and country. + +_20th._--Went to look over the Opera-house, which has been built here +very suddenly by subscription. It is about the size of the Lyceum; +arranged after the French fashion, having stalls, a _parterre_, and +_balcon_ below; and above, two circles of private boxes, the property of +subscribers. Some of these are fitted up in a style of extravagance I +never saw attempted elsewhere. There has been a sort of rivalry +exercised on this head, and it has been pursued with that regardlessness +of cost which distinguishes a trading community where their _amour +propre_ is in question. + +Silk velvets, damask, and gilt furniture form the material within many; +and, as the parties consult only their own taste, the colours of these +are various as their proprietors' fancies. I do not find the _ensemble_ +bad, however; whilst the shape and mounting of the _salle_ are both +unexceptionable. + +This effort, however creditable to the good taste of the city, is +premature, and must be doomed to more failures than one before it +permanently succeeds. A refined taste for the best kind of music is not +consequent upon the erection of an opera-house, nor is it a feeling to +be created at will. Even in the metropolis of England, with a capital so +disproportionate, and possessing such superior facilities for the +attainment of novelty, did the continuance of this refined amusement +depend solely upon the love of good music, it would quickly die, if not +be forgotten. + +From time to time, a small, but efficient and really good Italian troop, +will, beyond doubt, find liberal encouragement in the great northern +cities, and also in New Orleans, provided they make a short stay in +each; but, rapidly as events progress here, I will undertake to predict +that a century must elapse before even New York can sustain a permanent +operatic establishment. + + +JOURNAL CONTINUED. + + +NEW YEAR'S DAY IN NEW YORK. + + +With an unclouded sky, and a sun as bright and genial as we would desire +on a May morning, the first day of January 1834 makes its bow to the New +York public; and in no place does this same day meet heartier welcome, +or witness better cheer. + +On this day, from an early hour, every door in New York is open, and all +the good things possessed by the inmates paraded in lavish profusion. +The shops and banks alone are closed: Mammon for this day sees his +altars in one spot on earth deserted. Meantime every sort of vehicle is +put in requisition; and if a man owns but a single acquaintance in the +wide city, he on this day sets forth in kind heart to seek and shake him +by the hand. + +On this day all family bickerings are made up; fancied or real wrongs +admitted, explained, and forgiven. The first twenty-four hours of the +new year in New York is a right _Trève de Dieu_, during which foes +cease from strife, the long divided are re-united, and friendly compacts +renewed and drawn closer: even Avarice, more wary of approach than the +hare, on this day forgets to bolt his door, or calculate the cost of +bidding welcome to his visitor. + +The stranger is also made sensible of the benevolent influence of this +kindly day, if I may draw any inference from my own case. At an early +hour a gentleman of whom I had a slight knowledge entered my room, +accompanied by an elderly person I had never before seen, and who, on +being named, excused himself for adopting such a frank mode of making my +acquaintance, which he was pleased to add he much desired, and at once +requested me to fall in with the custom of the day, whose privilege he +had thus availed himself of, and accompany him on a visit to his family. + +I was the last man on earth likely to decline an offer made in such a +spirit; so, entering his carriage which was in waiting, we drove to his +house in Broadway, where, after being presented to a very amiable lady, +his wife, and a pretty, gentle-looking young girl, his daughter, I +partook of a sumptuous luncheon, drank a glass of champagne, and, on +the arrival of other visitors, made my bow, well pleased with my visit. + +My host now begged me to make a few calls with him, explaining, as we +drove along, the strict observances paid to this day throughout the +State, and tracing the excellent custom to the early Dutch colonists. + +I paid several calls in company with my new friend, at each place met a +hearty welcome, and witnessed the same abundant preparation; but to +lunch at each was, with the best intentions possible, quite out of the +question. After a considerable round, my companion suggested that I +might possibly have some compliments to make on my own account, and so +leaving me, begged me to consider his carriage perfectly at my disposal. + +This was very kind, but I at the time knew only two or three families; +and indeed, on being left to myself in solitary state, where every +carriage that whirled by was filled with merry stranger faces, my +courage oozed away. So, leaving a card or two, and making a couple of +hurried visits, I returned to my hotel, to think over the many +beneficial effects likely to grow out of such a charitable custom, and +to wish for its continued observance. + +We have days enough of division in each year, and should indeed welcome +and cherish one which inculcates peace and good-will to all; a day on +which little coolnesses are explained away, past kindnesses confirmed, +and injuries consigned to oblivion. + +At night, the theatre was filled to suffocation by a joyous throng, +although this portion of the season is not propitious to theatricals; +but on to-day, as though no house must be left unvisited by any of its +ordinary frequenters, the Park came in for a full participation in the +benefit of this honoured custom. + +_Friday, 3rd._--The prevailing topics of the new year are the President +and his _quondam_ chum, Major Jack Downing;[6] the agitation of the +community on the Bank question becoming daily more violent, as the +limitation placed on credit embarrasses trade by narrowing its +resources. I observe, however, that, in the midst of much wordy +violence, the bulk of the people appear confident that matters will, to +use a coinage of their own, "_eventuate_ for their ultimate benefit." +Meanwhile, the government and the laws appear equally omnipotent; and +although much embarrassment is unquestionably felt in the money-market, +and all stock become unseasonably low for the sellers, yet is the +country generally admitted to be very prosperous, and perfectly able to +meet this shock without any permanent or ruinous difficulty. We shall +see. + +Went to Mrs. H----'s box at the opera,--the "Donna del Lago," for +Bordogni's benefit: a very pretty woman, very well instructed; but with +a little pipe, in which sweetness cannot make up for want of force. +Fanti, a really good actress, and, although with a veiled voice, a +capital singer, is not so much considered, I discover, as Bordogni. + +The house was quite filled, the boxes rejoicing in a display of pretty +faces few _salles d'opéra_ might be admitted to rival. The prevailing +head-dress exceedingly showy and fanciful, a little too much so +perhaps:--but these are doings which, after all, change with each +season; therefore fashion can alone be arbiter. On the subject of beauty +I speak fearlessly, all men, having clear eyesight, being, upon this +point, admitted as competent witnesses. The _parterre_, too, was +occupied by a few parties of well-dressed women; but its prevailing +character, stalls included, was sombre and great-coatish,--not quite up +to the pit of the King's Theatre;--there was more applause though, +therefore I presume more enjoyment, which is the main object after all. +At the close of the performance several delicate bouquets, together with +a pretty coronal or two of choice flowers, were showered on the stage in +compliment to the fair _bénéficière_. + +_Wednesday, 12th._--Winter has at length arrived in person, and his +active bridge-maker is laying for him a firm icy path across the waters. +It was reported yesterday that the passage between Staten Island and New +Jersey was no longer open, Amboy Creek being thickly frozen from Newark +Bay to the Raritan. On reaching the steamboat this morning, I found that +the report was a correct one, and that our only practicable passage lay +through the Narrows and round the south end of Staten Island. The +occasion thus presented of a winter view of the bay quite reconciled me +to this more exposed and circuitous route, as it, in truth, amply +compensated for it. + +It was just seven A.M. when I reached the dock where the boat lay, to +all appearance firmly imbedded in thick ice; the river, I perceived, was +still pretty clear. Punctual as usual, the bell ceased to clang; the +paddle-wheels were vigorously applied; and in a few moments we burst our +bonds, thrusting the thick flakes of ice aside, and darting into the +clear river free from all farther impediment. + +There were very few passengers, and I had the promenade deck to my +exclusive use. Although day had not long broke, the clearness and purity +of the atmosphere gave to the most distant parts of the landscape an +outline cold and distinct, and brought all objects apparently much +nearer to each other, and to the looker-on, than they had ever before +appeared. The city of Jersey, the woods of Hoboken, and the far-off +bluffs of the Palisadoes, were each seen to stand separated and alone; +not blended together into one harmonizing mass, as, through the medium +of a rich warm atmosphere, I had hitherto viewed them. The effect was +for a moment to render this scene, which frequent observation had made +familiar, quite strange to me; and at the same time to invest its now +separate portions with new and peculiar attractions. + +The yet quiet city soon dropped astern; and on a good plan of its +streets one might have traced the earliest and most notable of its +sections, if not the particular houses, by the thin spiral lines of +smoke which curled distinctly high above the chimneys from which they +escaped. + +We held our course close along the east side of Staten Island; and as we +shot by the quarantine establishment, with its hospital and many +offices, the sun rose, without one attendant cloud, over the forest +heights of Brooklyn, burnishing, as with gold, every window and +weathercock opposed to its radiance. + +The drooping boughs of the graceful willow tribes, and all the +neighbouring shrubs, which only a moment before I had shivered to look +upon, bent down, as they appeared, beneath a load of ungenial icicles, +were now, as though touched by some enchanter's wand, sparkling and +brilliant, reminding one of the diamond-growing trees of young Aladdin's +cave. + +The Narrows were next passed, but the view seaward was bleak and +cheerless: the Neversink hills for the first time appearing to me worthy +such a high-sounding distinction. Not a symptom of frost was here, +although the wind had ceased to stir the waters of the bay, and to the +sun alone was left the task of opposing the advance of the ice-king. +Sol, though with diminished powers, had made a glorious rally on this +day; for not a thicket or creek within sight but rejoiced in his +cheering rays, and gladly owned his supremacy. + +The smoothness of the sea enabled our boat to make rapid way; and by a +little after ten o'clock we were landed at Amboy, where we found the +train awaiting our arrival. As we left our first stage, Hights-town, an +accident occurred similar to the one I had, on my last trip southward, +seen attended by such fearful consequences. We were proceeding, luckily +at a moderate rate, when the axle of the engine-tender broke in two: +the car occupied by myself and three others led the van, yet the first +intimation we got of the break-down of our tender was our running foul +of it with a bump that fairly unshipped us all, pitching the occupiers +of the hind-seats head-on into the laps of those _vis-à-vis_ to them. +Happily, this was the worst of the present mischance: the engine was +speedily arrested, a sound axle drawn from the near car to replace the +one fractured, myself and the others belonging to the carriage thus +hauled out of the line were stowed in, as supernumeraries, elsewhere, +and, after a delay, of some forty minutes, off we bowled again. + +Halting for a few moments at Bordentown, where the Delaware steamer +waits when the river is practicable, it now spread away below us in a +solid mass; and we pursued our journey by the railroad provided for such +seasons so far as it was at this time completed, that is, for some eight +or nine miles farther on. This point achieved, we discovered a group of +the clumsy-looking stage-coaches of the country, to the number of +twelve, each having a team of four horses, ready harnessed, standing +amongst the trees below. + +The cold was by this time extreme; bustle was the word, therefore, +amongst all parties,--drivers, porters, and passengers; and in a quarter +of an hour the transfer was completed, the luggage packed, the people +arranged, and the caravan in motion. The place had quite a wild, lone, +forest air; and it was a curious scene to view the bustle, and hear the +noise, so uncongenial to the spot, and no less so to observe the coaches +wheeling about amongst the trees as each Jehu sought to make the best of +his way into the lane at a little distance. + +Miserably uncomfortable as the driver's seat is before these machines, +I, as usual where the course was strange to me, requested leave to share +it with him. I had cast about to select a team; and was soon seated, +well rolled in broadcloth and bear-skin, behind four dark bays that +might have done credit to a better judgment. + +We soon got into a very narrow lane, through which lay the first few +miles. In this the ruts, or track, as it is here called, was over a foot +deep: on either side grew trees, thick and low-branched; therefore my +companion and I had as much as we could do to avoid broken heads and +keep the track. I looked impatiently, after practising this dodging +exercise some time, for the great road which the driver told me was "a +bit further ahead;" and at last we broke from our leafy shelter into it, +but with little advantage that I could discover; for, though our heads +were in less peril, our necks, I considered, required more especial +looking after than ever. We certainly had here wider space, and a free +choice of ruts or tracks, for there were several; but not one of them +less profound than those we had hitherto ploughed through. In one or two +places, the road was deeply trenched in every direction, and the edges +of these cuts so glazed with new-formed ice that I expected my friend +who was pilot would pass the box and back out. But no such thing, faith! +he steered round all impediments as coolly as the wind that whistled +through the half-frozen reins he held. + +Finding one place in the road quite impassable, he cast his eyes about +him for a moment, and chose the best part of the right bank; when, +gathering up his leaders, he first vexed them a little with the whip, +and then, putting them fairly at it, gained its summit, drove along for +a hundred yards, crashing through a thick cover of shrubs growing +breast-high, when having thus turned the impracticable bit of highway, +he coolly dropped down into it again. On looking back, I saw each team +taking in succession the line we had thus led over. + +This was all performed clumsily enough, as far as appearance went, I +allow; but cleverly and confidently, though with leaders hardly within +calling distance: and four snaffle-bits, and a pig-whip, being the only +means of dictation and control possessed by the coachman. The more I see +of these queer Whips the better I like them: it assuredly is impossible +to conceive anything more uncoachmanlike than their outward man; but +they grapple with the constantly occurring difficulties of their strange +work hardily and with superior intelligence. + +I have seen a pass on the high-road between Albany and New York, where a +descending driver perceiving that collision with a coming carriage was +from the slippery condition of the hill unavoidable, and also being +aware that such an event would be fatal to both parties, on the instant +turned his horses to the near bank, and dashed down into the bed of the +Mohawk, a descent of more than a hundred feet, as nearly perpendicular +as may well be. His presence of mind and courage saved both his own +passengers and those in the other vehicle, with the loss of his coach +and one of his horses only. The man was publicly thanked and rewarded, +and, I believe, yet waggons the same road. + +One might almost back one of these crack hands to hunt a picked team of +their own, a cross country, with the Melton hounds, coach and all; and +if it was not for the _pace_, it would not be such a very bad bet +either. + +At Camden we quitted our vehicular mode of progressing, and took once +more to the water, or rather to the ice, since it certainly ruled over +the broad Delaware. In many places this was strong enough to sustain the +weight of our little steamer's bow, and only gave way beneath repeated +heavy blows of the iron-sheathed paddles. + +After a hard fight we forced a path through all obstacles, and as the +clock struck four were alongside the Chestnut-street wharf; having, +notwithstanding the delays occasioned by our mishap and various changes, +accomplished the hundred miles in exactly ten hours. + +I was expected, found a dinner prepared for five o'clock, and, going at +once to my chamber to dress, thought I had never seen the Mansion-house +look to greater advantage. A well-warmed and carpeted corridor led to my +snug little room, the window of which looking into the inner court, +afforded one of the most attractive winter prospects imaginable, in the +form of entire carcasses of several fat bucks all hanging in a comely +row, and linked together by a festooning composed of turkey, woodcock, +snipe, grouse, and ducks of several denominations. Although quartered +here for a month to come, I felt fortified against any fear of famine by +this single glance without; nor did my interior appear less inviting, +cheered as this was by a brisk fire of hickory, several logs of which +lay athwart my hearth, sustained by a couple of antique-looking brass +dogs, blazing and crackling most uproariously: this is a fire I prefer +even to one of Liverpool coal; and how it can ever be superseded by that +quiet, unsocial, unearthly-looking and smelling, anthracite, I am at a +loss to _guess_! + +FOOTNOTE: + +[6] Described as the officer commanding the Downingsville militia, a +New-Englander, and a stanch adherent of the "Gineral's, so far as 'a +decent hunk of the animal wint,' but entirely agin' the whole-hog +system." Under this perfect assumption there appeared a series of really +familiar epistles, either remonstrating with or speaking of the +"Gineral," or, as the Major latterly styled the President, "the +Govermint;" no less admirable for the political acumen they display than +for a caustic drollery, which is enforced with shrewd Yankee humour, and +in the singular phraseology current amongst 'Uncle Sam's' kindred. These +letters have been collected, and are published both in America and in +England; and although neither the purity of the politics or the dialect +of the honest Major can be fully appreciated by strangers, his intrinsic +wit and native humour will well repay the task of a perusal by all who +admire originality of thought and expression. + + + + +THE DUTCH AND IRISH COLONIES OF PENNSYLVANIA. + + +Here are two colonies yet existing within this State,--samples of both +indeed may be found within a few miles of Philadelphia,--and these +constitute with me a never-failing source of interest and amusement. +They are composed of Dutch and Irish, often located on adjoining +townships, but keeping their borders as clearly defined as though the +wall of China were drawn between them. No two bodies exist in nature +more repellent; neither time, nor the necessities of traffic, which +daily arise amongst a growing population, can induce a repeal of their +tacit non-intercourse system, or render them even tolerant of each +other. I have understood that Pat has on occasions of high festivity +been known to extend his courtesy so far as to pay his German neighbours +a call to inquire kindly whether "any gintlemen in the place might be +inclined for a fight;" but this evidence of good-nature appears to have +been neither understood nor reciprocated, and, proof against the +blandishment, Mynheer was not even to be hammered into contact with +"dem wilder Irisher." + +It is a curious matter to observe the purity with which both people have +conserved the dialect of their respective countries, and the integrity +of their manners, costume, prejudices, nay, their very air, all of which +they yet present fresh and characteristic as imported by their +ancestors, although some of them are the third in descent from the first +colonists. Differing in all other particulars, on this point of +character their similarity is striking. + +Amongst the Germans I have had families pointed out to me, whose fathers +beheld the commencement of the war of Independence in Pennsylvania, yet +who are at this day as ignorant of its language, extent, policy, or +population, as was the worthy pastor of whom it is related, that, having +been requested to communicate to his flock the want of supplies which +existed in the American camp, he assured the authorities that he had +done so, as well as described to them the exact state of affairs: + +"I said to dem," he repeated in English, "Get op, min broders und mine +zisters, und put dem paerd by die vagen, mit brood und corn; mit +schaap's flesh und flesh of die groote bigs, und os flesh; und alles be +brepare to go op de vay, mit oder goed mens, to sooply General +Vashinton, who was fighting die Englishe Konig vor our peoples, und der +lifes, und der liberdies, op-on dem banks of de Schuylkill, diese side +of die Vestern Indies." + +In his piggery of a residence and his palace of a barn, in his waggon, +his oxen, his pipe, his person and physiognomy, the third in descent, +from the worthies exhorted as above, remains unchanged. The cases upon +which, as a juryman, he decides, he hears through the medium of an +official interpreter; he has his own journal, which serves out his +portion of politics to him in Low Dutch, and in the same language is +printed such portions of the acts of the State legislature as may in any +way relate to the section he inhabits; the only portion of the +community, indeed, which he knows, or cares to know, anything about. + +My honest countrymen of the same class, I can answer for being as +slightly sophisticated as their colder neighbours: it is true, their +tattered robes have been superseded by sufficient clothing, and a bit of +good broadcloth for Sunday or Saint's day, and their protracted lenten +fare exchanged for abundance of good meat, and bread, and "tay, galore, +for the priest and the mistress;" but when politics or any stirring +cause is offered to them, their feelings are found to be as excitable, +and their temperament as fiery, as though still standing on the banks of +the Suir or the Shannon. + +On all occasions of rustic holiday they may yet be readily recognised by +their slinging gait, the bit of a stick borne in the hollow of the hand, +the inimitable shape and set of the hat, the love of top-coats in the +men, and the abiding taste for red ribands and silk gowns amongst the +women. + +The inherent difference between the two people is never more strikingly +perceived than when you have occasion to make any inquiry whilst passing +through their villages. Pull up your horse by a group of little +Dutchmen, in order to learn your way or ask any information, and the +chance is they either run away, "upon instinct," or are screamed at to +come within doors by their prudent mothers; upon which cry they scatter, +like scared rabbits, for the warren, leaving you to "_Try Turner_" or +any other shop within hail. + +For myself, after a slight experience, I succeeded with my friends to +admiration: the few sentences of indifferent Dutch which I yet conserved +from my education amongst the Vee boors, at the Cape, served as a +passport to their civility. Without this accomplishment, all strangers +are suspected of being Irishers; and, as such, partake of the dislike +and dread in which their more mercurial neighbours are held by this +sober-sided and close-handed generation. + +On the other hand, enter an Irish village, and by any chance see the +young villains precipitated out of the common school: call to one of +these, and a dozen will be under your horse's feet in a moment; prompt +in their replies, even if ignorant of that you seek to learn; and ready +and willing to show you any place or road they know anything, or +nothing, about. I have frequently on these occasions, when asked to walk +into their cabin by the old people, on hearing their accent, and seeing +myself thus surrounded, almost doubted my being in the valley of +Pennsylvania. + +So little indeed does the accent of the Irish American,--who lives +exclusively amongst his own people in the country parts,--differ from +that of the settler of a year, that on occasions of closely-contested +elections this leads to imposition on one hand and vexation on the +other; and it is by no means uncommon for a man, whose father was born +in the States, to be questioned as to his right of citizenship, and +requested to bring proofs of a three years' residence. + +I now passed another month in this city most agreeably, during which the +weather was never unendurably cold: sharp frosts, but not a single fall +of snow that continued over an hour or two, or lay longer on the ground. +The majority of days I find noted in my journal as frosty but fine, many +as mild, and some even are described as warm: there were few, indeed, +during which exercise on horseback might not have been pleasantly taken. +When February set in, and no snow had yet fallen, I heard much despair +evinced on the diminished chances of a good sleighing-time; and, +although an enemy to severe cold, I confess I had my own regrets at not +being permitted to assist at a sleighing frolic, of which I received on +all hands such glowing descriptions. + +On the eighth of this month I looked with some anxiety for the +continuance of mild weather, as the Delaware was, happily, once more +open, and the line by way of that river and French-town resumed; a very +important event, as far as both comfort and expedition were concerned. +Indeed, a journey by land to Baltimore was an adventure by no means to +be desired; the time of travel having varied during the last month from +three to nine days, the distance being under a hundred miles. But the +waters were up, the bridges down; one road was washed away, and another +filled in with rocks, and roots of trees on their travels from the +Alleghanies to the Atlantic, which rested there, abiding the next flood, +without any fear of receiving a visit _ad interim_ from M'Adam. + +All, however, went well; the steamer was advertised to sail on the +morning of the 9th: there were here several weather-bound Southerners, +who, like myself, were anxious to proceed as easily as possible to the +capital; and we congratulated each other on the prospect we had of +accomplishing this by aid of steamboat and railroad, now once more +available. + + + + +THE STEAMBOAT. + + +DELAWARE.--NEWCASTLE.--RAILROAD.--FRENCH-TOWN.--ELK RIVER.--NORTH +POINT.--BAY OF CHESAPEAKE.--BALTIMORE. + + +Quitting one of these great seaports by the ordinary conveyance of +steamboat, early on a fine winter morning, is at once an amusing and +interesting event. + +Hastily summoned by your servant, who, himself not over early, bustles +up to your bedside with "Just five minutes after six o'clock, sir," you +start from a slumber that has been for some time back uneasy enough, +broken up by visions of steamboats, locomotives, canvass-back ducks, +Nott's stoves, and crowded cabin-tables. + +At the first shake out you jump, well aware how peremptory is the +steamer's bell above all other _belles_,--make hasty toilet, and bustle +into the hall, where a few half-burned candles yet outface the daylight; +and here you find a dozen newly-awakened miserables like yourself, +equipped for some steamer. + +The waiter inquires if you would like a cup of coffee, which as a matter +of course you accept; and, hurrying after him into the next room, you +are yet in the act of blowing and sipping your Mocha, which for once you +find sufficiently hot, when a friend pops his head in to say that the +baggage-cart is off, and your latest second of time come. Remedy there +is none; a delay of one minute is fatal, since no timekeeper is so +punctual as an American steamer anywhere north of the Potomac. + +Out you trudge, great-coated, muffled up in fur and shawl, to find the +street silent and untrodden, except by a straggler or twain bending +their steps hurriedly towards Chestnut. As you turn out of South-third +into this great thoroughfare you observe an immediate change; the +stragglers preceding you have mingled with the main current, and are +quickly confounded amidst a confused jumble of men, women, and children, +carts, coaches, and wheelbarrows, pressing in long columns of march down +towards the Delaware. + +In the distance may be seen, curling from below, wavy pillars of dense +black smoke, intermingled with vicious-looking lines of thin whitish +vapour, which rush through and tower high over the more sluggish smoke +with a savage, hissing sound that almost drowns the bell, now tolling a +last summons. + +The wharf is gained: here lie the boats side by side, one going north, +the other south: they are surrounded by a crowd,--friends making hasty +adieus; porters, of all shades of colour, hurrying to and fro, aiding, +scrambling, and squabbling, with the important air and ceaseless +loquacity everywhere characteristic of the African race. + +Amidst this motley throng the unoccupied and observant man will easily +pick out many individuals of gaunt outline, a bilious aspect and a staid +sober demeanour, each carrying a small valise, a carpet-bag, a long +Boston coat or cloak, and steadily and deliberately making a straight +course for the common bourne, unaided and unaiding, self-sustained, +independent, and, each for himself alone. + +At length, after a few last hasty bangs, the heavy bell clappers cease +to move; the porters quit the luggage-cars and spring nimbly ashore; the +independent gentlemen dispose of their _kits_, each after the fashion +and on the spot he "judges" most convenient; the hissing sound of +escaping steam suddenly stops, and this momentary silence is succeeded +by the quick motion of the paddle-wheels. + +The vicious-looking columns of white vapour melt away; wheeling +majestically about, the huge boats steadily head towards their opposite +courses, and, in the next moment, are rushing, like unslipped +greyhounds, through the smooth waters of the Delaware. + +And now occasionally arrive discoveries, at once whimsical and amusing +to all save the sufferers. A lady with her children going South, for +instance, finds out that her husband, or her carriage and horses, one or +both, have gotten by mistake aboard the New York boat, and are off back +again to the North: perhaps you get a glimpse of the miserable biped in +question, like a waterman, looking one way and going the other. Without +great care, these little accidents will occur, as I can vouch for; as +the lines depart full drive at the same instant, stopping is out of the +question; and the disunion of a day, at least, is the consequence of one +moment's delay or mistake. + +Our way lies downward, and the long line of quays is dashed by like +lightning. You have just time to mark, well pleased, the early activity +of the numerous little steamers plying to and fro between Camden and the +city ferries. You cast perchance a rambling glance over those pretty +villages, above which the ruddy hue of morning is serenely spreading, +and, even as you gaze, behold them melt away in the river's haze. + +The Navy-yard, with the huge wooden mansions built to shelter the +"Pennsylvania" and a neighbour frigate, glide, as it were, hastily by; +and nothing remains to break the monotony of the long level lines +skirting the river, and hardly rising above it. + +Of this prospect the eye soon becomes weary, and now is the time to look +upon your fellow-passengers. You descend from the upper or promenade +deck, which, if the morning be chilly, you have most likely held in sole +occupation. On the next deck beneath, seated back to back upon long +ranges of settees, you behold the female portion of the living freight; +for, I take it for granted, this is the first direction of your regards, +and a pleasant task it often turns out to be; for, as I have already +said, and shall probably yet more strongly confirm hereafter, the +average of female beauty in America is high, and but few women are +without those always striking points, fine expressive brows and eyes, +which, shaded by a tasteful bonnet, and accompanied by a certain +coquettish air, leave little wanting to ensure the admiration of the +passing stranger. + +Having lounged about here for a turn or two, you find yourself reminded +of a certain indispensable ceremony by a Stentor-lunged black, who most +perseveringly vociferates, "Gentlemen who have not yet _paid_, will +please step to the captain's office and settle their _passage_." + +At your convenience you obey this gentle hint; securing at the same time +a ticket for breakfast, now becoming a very important consideration, +assailed by a good natural appetite, sharpened in the shrewd air of a +clear, cold morning. At last, ring goes the bell; and the deck, already +thinned of the more anxious, or more provident, of the party, becomes, +at that magic tinkle, a desert. + +On descending the stair, you perceive two long ranges of table thickly +bestrewn with dishes containing beefsteak, ham, fish, chicken, game, +_omelettes_,--together with hot rolls, cakes, and bread of every other +form and denomination, with tea and coffee, borne about as called for; +the whole arranged with an attention to neatness and propriety quite +surprising when you consider the place, and the difficulties which are +inseparable from having to cater and cook for such a multitude. + +If you are not of an active habit, or if you object to remain stewing in +the cabin for a time waiting on the event, you observe at a glance that, +ample as the tables appear, every seat is occupied. Here is no +reservation of places--possession is your only admitted right, and, were +the President himself too late, he must sit out, or be admitted of the +party on courtesy: of this, however, let me add, it never was my chance +to perceive any lack. One of the black waiters, recognising you for a +frequent passenger, is touched by your appealing glance, motions you to +follow him, advancing at the same time a stool with an insinuating air +between two goodhumoured-looking men, with "Please, make a little room +for this gentleman." + +A niche is readily conceded; and, casting an eye right, left, or +straightforward, you can hardly fail to find something to your liking. +The board is soon clear of the "Rapids,"--a large family in most such +places; and now you acquire ample space to prove your prowess in. + +Having breakfasted, you once more mount the upper deck and breathe the +pure air of heaven, unpolluted by that unpleasant gas which escapes from +the iron coal burnt in the cabin stoves. Such at least was my constant +habit: the natives, I observed, although accustomed to a climate whose +vicissitudes are extreme, never appear voluntarily to face the cold, but +for the most part, abide below, congregated in concentric circles, of +which a red-hot stove, filled with that to me deadly abomination, +anthracite coal, forms the centre. + +Wrapping well up, I found, even in the severest season, no difficulty in +facing the open air, and have more than once paced the upper deck for a +passage of three or four hours without having my territory invaded, or +at most only for a few minutes by some adventurous spirit, who +invariably dived down after a shiver or two. + +Here then, between your meals, you may promenade upon a noble deck fifty +feet long, smoking your cigar, and eyeing the flitting forest or +meadow, amidst dreamy reveries of William Penn's description of the +populous tribes of the Delaware, and that first simple treaty which +consigned to the unwarlike strangers a country and a home, a treaty +which was a deed of disinheritance to the posterity of the donors, and +of destruction to their nation, of whom, in their own land, their name +has long been the sole memorial left. + +In travelling, as I did much and alone, this was always the current set +of my day-dreaming. I never could draw on fancy to the exclusion of the +Red-man; but, on the contrary, constantly detected myself re-peopling +every wood with the wild forms of the aborigines, and in each distant +skiff that darted over the broad stream picturing the fragile canoe, and +its plumed and painted occupant. + +The town of Wilmington, the chief place of the little State of Delaware, +shows very attractively from the river, with which it communicates by a +navigable creek, and, together with the neighbouring springs of the +Brandywine, is in high repute for the beauty of its scenery as well as +for its general salubrity. + +Arrived at Newcastle, an ancient but not very populous city,--which +nevertheless possessed an interest in my eyes, from the circumstance of +my having chosen to write about it long before I ever dreamed of seeing +it,--you quit the steamer, and, seating yourself in one of the long line +of railway cars awaiting you, are whisked over the intervening neck to +French-town,--by courtesy so called, since the _town_ is yet to be,--a +distance of sixteen miles in about fifty minutes; and are there +reshipped on the Elk river, down which you rush, at the usual rapid +rate, amidst scenery that is really charming. + +At the junction of the Susquehannah, the view up the two fine rivers, +with the dividing headland, the numerous winding creeks, deep shady +coves, and spacious bays, all well wooded and backed by a range of bold +mountainous ridges, calls for unqualified admiration, and cannot be too +often seen. + +The vast bay of the Chesapeake now opens gradually out before you. On +the right lie the Gunpowder and other rivers, famous as the favourite +feeding-ground of the canvass-back; and here you find amusement in +watching the innumerable flocks, or rather clouds, of every denomination +of the duck tribe, which, disturbed by the noisy steamer, rise from the +water in numbers that hide the sun. + +Boats too, of a beautiful model and most _varmint_ rig, now begin to +thicken on the track, working up, close-hauled, into the eye of the +wind, or going, right before it, with the foresail guy'd out on one side +and mainsail on the other, showing an uncommon spread of canvass. Here +and there, too, the masts of tall ships rise, as more gravely they seek +their port, or win their way to the yet distant ocean, performing a +voyage before they reach the sea. + +North Point is next passed by; and the fate of poor Ross is yet +occupying the mind, when the city-crowned hill begins to open on the +view, and Baltimore, with all its domes, spires, and columns, stands +forth in bold relief against the evening sky. + +A bustle soon after commences on deck: the ladies draw closer their +hoods and cloaks, and the men move to and fro, warned by the sable +Mentor of the place, who paces the decks below and above with a +ceaseless cry of "Ladies and gentle-_men_ will be pleased to step +forward, and point out their bag-_gage_." + +A general loading of wheelbarrows is now the order of the hour; most of +the waiters exercising the office of porters, and carrying with them +their barrows. The landing-place gained, you are hailed by many voices +ringing in a rich brogue, "Coach, your honour! Long life to ye! want a +carriage?" and eager looks and ready uplifted fingers woo you for an +assenting nod. Nowhere on this continent is the presence of Pat so +immediately recognizable as in this good catholic city, where the office +of Jarvey is nearly a monopoly amongst my poor countrymen, who appear to +have left no tittle of their good-humour, eager importunity, and +readiness of wit behind them. + +Being once known, I felt at all my future landings quite at home here, +as these honest fellows were to me particularly attentive. Driving to +Barnum's hotel, the stranger may count on a hearty welcome from King +David (whom Heaven long preserve!) and from his household much civility; +and here, with capital fare, over a fire of wood,--never use anthracite +in a close room,--will find, if he has been as observant as he ought, +much to amuse and gratify him in a retrospective glance over a journey +of some hundred miles, performed with little fatigue or inconvenience, +between the chief cities of quaker Pennsylvania and catholic Maryland. + + + + +WASHINGTON. + + +On arriving at Baltimore, I found that so woful was the condition of the +road between this city and the capital, that, although the distance is +but thirty-seven miles, and that there remained full three hours of +daylight, still no regular stage would encounter, until morning, the +perils of the road. + +I thereon made an agreement with two gentlemen,--one of whom was an +excellent and learned judge, on some State business; and the other a +Philadelphia merchant, escorting his daughter, and a pretty young lady +her friend, on a visit of pleasure to Washington,--that we would +together engage an extra coach for our party; and, instead of starting +at the monstrous hour of five in the morning, set out at half-past +eight, when, with the advantage of a light load and good horses, we +might reasonably hope to reach our destination before dark. + +This was done accordingly: an extra, or exclusive carriage, to hold six +inside, was contracted for with the proper authorities, and chartered to +Washington city, to start between eight and nine next morning, for the +sum of twenty-five dollars, or about six pounds sterling. + +With the punctuality for which these people are distinguished throughout +the States, our carriage drove up to Barnum's door at a few minutes +after eight; and, breakfast being despatched, our party was seated +fairly, with all the luggage built up on the permanent platform which +graces the rear of these machines, within the time appointed: a very +creditable event, when it is considered there were two young ladies of +the party. + +The air was mild as in May, and there being a goodly promise of +sunshine, I resigned my share of the inside to my servant Sam,--the very +pink of brown gentlemen in appearance, besides being a pattern of +good-breeding; and seeing something unusually knowing in the look of our +waggoner, mounted the box by his side, uneasy though it was; for never +was anything worse contrived for comfort than the outside of a Yankee +stage-coach,--except, perhaps, the inside of an English mail. + +Mr. Tolly, whose acquaintance I now made, let me record, was the only +driver I ever met in America who took up his leather, and packed his +cattle together, with that artist-like air, the perfection of which is +only to be seen in England. + +The coachmen are not here, as with us, a distinct class, distinguished +by peculiar costume, and by characteristics the result of careful +education and exclusive habits; but might be taken for porters, drovers, +or anything else indeed,--being men who have followed, and are ready +again to follow, a dozen other vocations, as circumstances might +require: they are nevertheless, generally, good drivers, and, uniformly, +sober steady fellows. + +Mr. Tolly, however, one might see at a glance--despite the disadvantages +of his toggery, plant, and all his other appointments--was born to look +over four pair of lively ears; and had Fortune only dropped him in any +stable-loft between London and York, there would not have been a cooler +hand or a neater whip on the North road. + +About a mile from the city we came upon the country turnpike; and of +this, as I now viewed it for the first time, any comprehensible +description is out of the question, since I am possessed of no means of +illustrating its condition to English senses;--a Cumberland fell, +ploughed up at the end of a very wet November, would be the Bath road +compared with this the only turnpike leading from one of the chief +sea-board cities to the capital of the Union. + +I looked along the river of mud with despair. Mr. Tolly will pronounce +this impracticable after the night's rain, thinks I; but I was mightily +mistaken in my man: without pausing to pick or choose, he cheered his +leaders, planted his feet firmly, and charged gallantly into it. + +The team was a capital one, and stuck to their dirty work like terriers. +Some of the holes we scrambled safely by would, I seriously think, have +swallowed coach and all up: the wheels were frequently buried up to the +centre; and more than once we had three of our cattle down together all +of-a-heap, but with whip and voice Mr. Tolly always managed to pick them +out and put them on their legs again; indeed, as he said, if he could +only see his leaders' heads well up, he felt "pretty certain the coach +must come through, slick as soap." + +Mr. Tolly and myself very soon grew exceedingly intimate; a false +reading of his having at starting inspired him with a high opinion of my +judgment, and stirred his blood and mettle, both of which were decidedly +game. + +Whilst smoking my cigar, and holding on by his side with as unconcerned +an air as I could assume, I, in one of our pauses for breath, after a +series of unusually heavy lurches, chanced to observe, by way of +expressing my admiration, "This is a real _varmint_ team you've got hold +on, Mr. Tolly." + +"How did you find that out, sir?" cries Tolly, biting off about a couple +of ounces of 'baccy. + +"Why, it's not hard to tell so much, after taking a good look at them, I +guess," replied I. + +"Well, that's rum any how! but, I guess, you're not far out for once," +answers Mr. Tolly, with a knowing grin of satisfaction: "sure enough, +they are all from Varmont;[7] and I am Varmont myself as holds 'em. All +mountain boys, horses and driver--real Yankee flesh and blood; and they +can't better them, I know, neither one nor t'other, this side the +Potomac."[8] + +I found my _hirgo_ was thrown away, but did not attempt an explanation, +and became in a little time satisfied that this odd interpretation of my +compliment had answered an excellent purpose; for my companion became +exceedingly communicative, and most indefatigable in his exertions. More +plucky or more judicious coachmanship, or better material under leather, +I never came across in all my journeyings. About half way we bade adieu +to my Varmont friend, to my great regret. + +Wearied with my rough seat, which the companionship of Mr. Tolly had +alone rendered endurable so long, I now got inside; the Philadelphia +gentleman succeeding to the vacancy on the box. + +I did my best to draw my fair companions into a little chat, but found +my _vis-à-vis_--the daughter of my successor outside--most +impracticable; a monosyllable was the extent of her exertion: whilst her +companion, who was a lively, intelligent-looking girl, and very pretty +withal, was necessarily chilled by the taciturnity of her senior. I note +this as being an unusual case, since, when once properly introduced, the +ladies of America are uncommonly frank and chatty, and evince an evident +desire to please and be amiable; which is creditable to themselves, and +to strangers is both flattering and agreeable. + +In the good old judge, whom I had the honour of meeting often after, I +found one of the most amusing and intelligent companions a man could +desire to rumble over a villanous road with, and for a couple of hours +we made time light, when our day's journey had well-nigh terminated in +an adventure that might have been attended with ugly consequences. + +Although the road for this stage was something less bad, our driver was +not a Tolly; in avoiding some Charybdis or other, he let his leaders +slip down a bank about eight feet deep, whither, but for the good temper +and steady backing of the wheel-horses, we should have followed: as it +was, we managed to pick out our cattle, and got off with a couple of +broken traces. These being duly cobbled, away we scrambled again, I +resuming my seat on the box; the last occupant having become most +heartily sick of his elevation. + +About the end of nine hours' hard driving, the high dome of the Capitol +showed near; and the city toll-gate, situated about a mile from this +magnificent building, was opened. The prospect was, notwithstanding, yet +sufficiently uncheery; a steep hill lay in front, having a road that +looked like a river of black mud meandering about one side of it--the +other side was seamed with various tracks made by the vehicles of bold +explorers, who, like ourselves, had been doubtful about facing the +regular road--the counsel of a well-mounted countryman, who reported +that he had just passed the wrecks of two coaches on the turnpike, +decided us to eschew it, and boldly try across country. + +We all alighted, except the ladies; and acting as pioneers, pushed up +the hill, breasting it stoutly. It was very well we took this route; +for, having at last safely crowned it, we beheld on our right the two +coaches that left Baltimore three hours before us, hopelessly pounded in +the highway, regularly swamped within sight of port; for the Capitol was +not over three or four hundred yards from them. + +The passengers were all out, most of them assisting to unharness and +unload, that, by combining both teams, they might extricate their +vehicles one at a time. + +Here, within the shadow of the Capitol, I was struck with the gloomy and +unimproved condition of the surrounding country. Except our caravan, not +a living thing moved within sight--all was desert, silent, and solitary +as the prairies of Arkansas. + +The great avenue once entered upon, the scene changed, and we rattled +along briskly over a well Macadamized road. The judge we set down at the +top of the Capitolinean hill, where his honourable brothers held their +head-quarters; my other companions had rooms secured at Gadsby's, where +we next halted; but to my inquiries here, I was answered, "All quite +full." They advised me, at the same time, to try _Fuller_, which I +thought waggish enough: however, after driving about a mile farther down +the avenue, I found at Mr. Fuller's hotel rooms taken for me by a +considerate friend, and had to congratulate myself now and henceforward +on being the best-lodged errant _homo_ in the capital of the United +States. + +The windows of my sitting-room, I perceived, commanded a view the whole +extent of the avenue; but, for the present, I limited my speculation to +the dinner that was soon placed before me, and which a fast of eleven +hours had rendered a particularly desirable prospect. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[7] Varmont is a State famous for its wild mountain scenery, and having +a breed of horses unequalled for hardihood, fine temper, and bottom: +they are found all over the States, and are everywhere in high esteem. + +[8] The river Potomac is held to be the dividing line between the +northern and southern States. + + + + +THEATRE, WASHINGTON. + + +I made my _début_ professionally in the capital upon the 12th of +February. The theatre here was a most miserable-looking place, the worst +I met with in the country, ill-situated and difficult of access; but it +was filled nightly by a very delightful audience; and nothing could be +more pleasant than to witness the perfect _abandon_ with which the +gravest of the senate laughed over the diplomacy of the "Irish +Ambassador." They found allusions and adopted sayings applicable to a +crisis when party feelings were carried to extremity. The elaborate +display of eloquence with which Sir Patrick seeks to _bother_ the +Spanish envoy was quoted as the very model of a speech for a +non-committal orator, and recommended for the study of several gentlemen +who were considered as aiming at this convenient position, very much to +their amusement. + +The pieces were ill mounted, and the company unworthy the capital, with +the exception of two very pretty and very clever native actresses, +Mesdames Willis and Chapman. The latter I had the satisfaction of +seeing soon after transferred to New York, in which city she became a +monstrous favourite, both in tragedy and comedy: a very great triumph +for Mrs. Chapman--for she succeeded Miss F. Kemble in some of her best +parts, and an excellent comic actress, a Mrs. Sharpe--acting on the same +night Julia in "The Hunchback," and the Queen of Hearts in "High, Low, +Jack, and Game," with a cleverness which rarely accompanies such +versatility. + +I have much pleasure in offering this just tribute to a very amiable +person, who has, since my departure from the States, quitted the stage, +on which, had she been fortunately situated, she would have had very few +superiors. + +I wonder there are not many more native actresses, since, I am sure, +there is a great deal of latent talent in society here both for opera +and the drama: the girls, too, are generally well educated; are pretty, +have much expression, a naturally easy carriage, and great imitative +powers. The latter talent is singularly common amongst them; and I have +met, not one, but many young women, who would imitate the peculiarities +of any actress or actor just then before the public with an accuracy +and humour quite remarkable. + +I acted here seven nights on this occasion, and visited the city again +in May, when I passed three or four weeks most agreeably. I had the +pleasure, too, during this last visit, of seeing the plans for a theatre +worthy the audience, and which, I trust, has by this time been happily +erected, as the greatest part of the fund needed was readily subscribed +for; and the attempt can hardly fail amongst a people so decidedly +theatrical, and who are, besides, really in absolute want of public +amusements for the number of stray men turned loose here during the +session, many of whom are without other home than the bar-room of an +inn, or better means of keeping off _ennui_ than gin-sling or the +gaming-table. + +I shall now throw together in this place the result of my "Impressions" +as received during my separate visits. + +The scenery in the neighbourhood is naturally as beautiful and varied as +woods, rocks, and rivers, in all their most charming features, can +combinedly render it. One of the finest of many noble prospects is, in +my mind, that from the heights just over George Town. From this point +the vast amphitheatre of city, valley, and river may be embraced at a +glance, or followed out in detail, as time or inclination prompts. + +Following the windings of the majestic Potomac below the bridge,--which, +viewed from this elevation, looks like a couple of cables drawn across +its channel,--the town of Alexandria is clearly seen: away, on the other +side, Fort Washington may be made out; and, opposite to this, the +ever-hallowed, Mount Vernon is visible; a glimpse in itself worthy a +pilgrimage to every lover of that rare combination--virtue and true +patriotism! + +Turning from this direction, and setting your face towards the Capitol, +you perceive extended in dotted lines, the thinly-furnished streets of +the city: viewed from here, the meagre supply of buildings in proportion +to its extent is made obvious; each separate house may be traced out; +and, in their irregular and detached appearance, all design becomes +confounded. It seemed to me as though some frolicsome fairy architect, +whilst taking a flight with a sieveful of pretty houses, had suddenly +betaken her to riddling them over this attractive site as she circled +over the valley in her airy car. + +One of my most favourite rides was to a secluded spot in this +neighbourhood, of which I shall attempt some description, since I would, +in the very fulness of my heart's charity, induce all succeeding +wayfarers to visit it. + + + + +PIERCE'S GARDEN. + + +At about four miles from the city, a gardener named Pierce has taken up +his abode on the summit of a high and on all sides nearly precipitous +hill, immediately surrounded by similar elevations, but separated from +them by very deep ravines. Through one of these, encompassing two sides +of the hill, rushes a clear, active little river, such as a trout-fisher +would glory in, only that its banks in this neighbourhood are everywhere +sentinelled by trees of willow, dog-wood, laburnum, &c. whose flowery +arms entwined within each other shadow the clear water, and protect from +the lure of the angler its finny inmates. + +Across this ravine lies the ordinary path by which the future stranger, +who is an amateur of Nature's painting, will seek to gain one of those +fair scenes she has lavished much care upon. + +No bridge connects the little domain with the busy world, from sight or +sound of which it is isolated as absolutely as was the valley of +Rasselas; but, slowly winding down an abrupt, thickly-shaded forest +path, you at once break through this "leafy skreen" upon the ford, on +the opposite side of which, a little to the right, lies the gate leading +into the garden. + +Pushing your horse boldly through the stream,--for, though noisy, the +bottom has been cleared, and is not usually over knee-deep,--you +dismount, and open the only barrier. Right above you stands a rude stone +dwelling, stern and square of outline, and in no way suited or in +keeping with the graceful trees and shrubs whose rich verdure shadow its +rough walls. Towards this you press onward and upward, until the natural +platform on which the dwelling is placed be gained; when the view of and +from this spot will well reward you for a ride through a secluded forest +country, the freshness and wildness of which have already pleased you, +especially if you are, as I happily was on most of my visits here, +accompanied by companions at once fair and intelligent. + +Upon this little platform the grass is always of rare verdure for this +country. Immediately in front of the dwelling four or five forest trees +of the finest kind fling their branches athwart the entrance; and, a few +yards removed, around the foot of a venerable elm, is spread a +variegated carpet of daisies and other pretty flowers, whose colours +the Persian loom might be proud to imitate for a prince's divan. + +A few garden-seats are placed here and there for the ease of visitors; +and here have I often sat whilst Mr. Pierce was arranging a bouquet,--an +art, by the way, and no mean one, in which he excels,--and looking about +on the well-sheltered spot, have thought of my poor old friend Michael +Kelly's ballad, until I have fancied him "alive again," and breathing +over the folds of his ample cravat, + + + "And I said, if there's peace to be found in this world, + A heart that is humble might look for it here!" + + +But there is no peace to be found in this world; so, after indulging a +few wild fancies, that come quickly in such places, I quitted this, as I +have done a hundred other like oases in life's desert, to wander again +about the busy world and jostle with the worldly: + + + "We feel pangs at parting + From many a spot, where yet we may not loiter." + + +I did not bid adieu to this, however, before its tranquil and +peace-giving features were impressed for ever upon my memory. + +The wooded and well-rounded hills which encircle the garden, are placed +at distances varying from half a mile to half a bow-shot right Sherwood +measure: within this range two buildings only are to be seen; one a +pretty, classic-looking dwelling, nestled under the brow of the hill to +the eastward; the other, sunk low in the extreme western distance, a +rude-looking stone-built water-mill, surrounded by all its healthful and +picturesque appointments; adding to the rustic beauty of the scene, yet +so far removed as in no way to disturb a feeling of absolute seclusion, +if such should be the desire of the possessor of this little domain, +which a moderate sum of money, laid out with good taste, might render +surpassingly beautiful. + +I observed that Mr. Pierce kept a few men constantly employed; and as he +is a person of evident intelligence, neither unaware of the value of his +possession, nor deaf to the admiration of his visitors, I trust it may +become worth his while to complete by art what nature has so happily +designed. + +Flowers were to be procured here at a season very far advanced, and a +high price was given for bouquets, the procuring which for ladies on the +evening of a ball or party is a common act of gallantry; consequently +there is much rivalry amongst the beaux in gleaning the rarest and most +beautiful flowers. + +This is a graceful and pretty fashion, and one not likely to grow out of +use amongst women, which opens a market well worth the florist's notice. + +If my voice could reach Mr. Pierce, two things I would seek to press +upon his consideration: the first should be never to suffer himself to +be persuaded to throw a bridge--above all, a wooden one--across that +prettiest of fords; the other, that he would, out of humanity to the +cattle, and out of consideration for the necks of his fair visitors, +make the drive, so called, leading through the wood into the George-town +road, just passable. + +Meantime, until this be accomplished, let me caution all future +explorers against venturing the approach by that route. The one by the +race-course, and across the ford, is as good as need be; somewhat steep, +a little difficult here and there, but in no way perilous. + +I might have selected spots for detail in this neighbourhood, which in +other eyes may have attractions, though different, quite as powerful; +but this, somehow or other, won strangely upon my fancy, and grew to be +my favourite resort when pursuing my accustomed rides. I paid to it many +visits alone, and in company it became associated with some of the +pleasantest hours I passed here; and thus comes it that the reader is +afforded such an opportunity as a meagre sketch can give, of becoming +acquainted with this secluded spot, once perhaps the summer bower of +some native princely Sagamore, and now the location of Mr. Pierce, +gardener and seedsman! + + + + +THE GARDEN, POETICAL AND POLITICAL. + + +I one day had the honour of accompanying a lady on a drive to make some +calls in the environs, and a most agreeable drive it was. One of our +visits turned out to me quite an adventure; and procured me the +acquaintance of a character rarely encountered in these rule-of-three +days, wherein humanity is clipped and trained upon the principles of old +Dutch gardening,--no exuberances permitted, but all offshoots duly +trimmed to the conventional cut, until individuality is destroyed, and +one half of the world, like Pope's parterre, is made to reflect, as +nearly as possible, the other. + +We drove for some distance through an ill-tended but naturally pretty +domain, alighting unnoticed at a house having an air of antiquity quite +refreshing; three sides of the building were encompassed by a broad +raised stoop, covered with a wide-spread veranda, whilst the walls were +thickly coated with ivy, like the tower of an English village church. + +We mounted the stoop, which commanded a vast extent of valley bounded by +distant hills, only needing water to make a perfect prospect. A few +moments after we had rested here, the mistress of the place made her +approach, hoe in hand, for she had been tending her flowers in person. +Such a dear old shepherdess of a woman I have not seen for many a day, +with all the poetry and enthusiasm of nineteen, and a pastoral, simple, +unworldlike air, worthy the golden age of the flower-wreathed +sheep-crook. + +She had an anecdote connected with every flower-bed;--her story of the +ivy, so abundant, quite pleased me, as being interesting in itself, and +made doubly so by her _naïve_ mode of telling it. + +It appeared that the plants were originally cultivated by Mr. Roscoe, on +his place near Liverpool; that the shoots were gathered by the hands of +that amiable and illustrious man, and sent, in fulfilment of a promise +made, to Mr. Jefferson, for the adornment of Monticello. + +The bearer of the plants, on arriving at Washington, could find no +immediate means of forwarding them safely into Virginia; so placed them +in the keeping of their present enthusiastic possessor, beneath whose +careful tending,--for the trust has not been reclaimed,--the gift of +friendship has flourished and increased, and will, I hope, remain fresh +as her own spirit, and fadeless as is the fame of the first donor! + +Her parterre afforded quite a summary of the history and habits of the +departed great: here were stocks that had been cultivated by the hands +of George Washington, and lilies growing from bulbs dug up by those of +Thomas Jefferson, after each had cast aside the ungrateful cares of +government and resumed those simpler and happier pursuits in which both +delighted; and these flowers of theirs flourish yet in peace and beauty, +side by side, and, fragile as they look, are perhaps more durably linked +than the mighty Union over which these illustrious florists presided +with views so widely different. + +The fruit-trees were thick with blossoms, and the air was absolutely +perfumed. I felt exceedingly loath to obey the summons of my fair guide +when informed that the time of departure was arrived, and have seldom +found a visit to appear so very short. The carriage being laden with the +sweet-scented spoils,--or, rather let me say, gifts of our kind hostess, +for nothing could exceed the free hand with which every shrub was rifled +for us,--we made our adieus, and set forth to return to the city by a +different road, paying a call at another cottage residence by the way. + +Of these unpretending, but attractive-looking places, there are numbers +in this neighbourhood; and if ever Washington rises to the importance +fondly anticipated by its founders, no city ought to boast more charming +environs. + +Here is no end of sites for country dwellings,--valley and hill, river +and rivulet, towering rocks and dark ravines abound in as wild a variety +as heart could wish; with land and living both exceedingly cheap. + +I saw one of the prettiest houses possible, with nearly a hundred acres +of land, that had been purchased, a few months before, for five thousand +dollars; and, during my stay here, a first-rate house, with stabling, +&c. complete, as well situated as any in Washington, and as well built, +sold for the same sum. At present, indeed, I should say land about here +is of very little value: though admirably calculated for the residence +of an independent class of gentry, here is no temptation for the planter +or merchant; and but few in this country seek to live a life of leisure +or retirement. + + + + +THE FALLS OF THE POTOMAC. + + +On St. George's day, in company with Captain T----ll, an engineer +officer of high standing, and Mr. K----r, I set out on horseback, at an +early hour, to view the much talked of, but too rarely visited, Falls of +the Potomac. + +Our way lay along the tow-path of the Chesapeake and Ohio canal, planned +to unite the Potomac river with the Ohio below Pittsburg,--one of the +greatest works yet contemplated. Its length will be three hundred and +forty miles: the locks are of stone, one hundred feet by fifteen; and +the amount of lockage designed for the whole line is three thousand two +hundred and fifteen feet. Piercing the Alleghany mountains, where the +canal attains its highest level, a tunnel is planned, four miles and +some yards in length. + +For upwards of a hundred miles the line is already available; and in +this distance are reckoned forty-four locks, and several noble +aqueducts, in an ascent of a quarter of a mile. + +For sixteen miles we followed this magnificent work, which as far as +one of the uninitiated may judge, presents a promise of endurance worthy +the best days of Rome: the width of the canal here varied, as my +companion informed me, from eighty to seventy feet, and the depth from +six to seven feet. + +Independent of this work, in itself so interesting, the scenery is +varied and striking. Upon our right lay the canal, to whose course all +nature had been subdued,--the forest rooted up, the Potomac bestridden +by an aqueduct eighteen hundred feet in length, beds of solid gneiss +hewn out fathoms deep, valleys filled up and ramparted with granite +against the assaults of the near river; everything on this hand was +trimmed and levelled in a workmanlike manner: the labour of man was +evident throughout, and the well-trained water stood still, or moved +onward or backward, as directed by its master. + +Close upon our left ran the Potomac, but so changed in character, that +the stranger, who from the Capitol had traced the mazy windings of this +mighty stream, whose deep indents and sluggish current show like a +series of lakes stretching away till lost in distance, suddenly removed +to this point, short of two miles, would hardly credit that the narrow, +noisy mountain stream beside him was the same, the very fountain and +feeder of the inland sea spreading below. + +It was now dry, fine weather; no rain had fallen for some time; and the +stream, pent within narrow limits, cowered beneath the wooded heights of +the Virginia shore: but the condition of every unprotected level on our +side spoke awfully of its force, when, backed by supplies from the +mountains, it extends itself abroad, overthrowing trees and banks, and +leaving their huge ruins to mark in undoubted characters the true limit +of its sovereignty. + +At this time it was in its most peaceful mood, and went on, now +expanding placidly over an even bed, and now divided before some +stubborn rock-founded islet, chafing as it were at being compelled to +yield to an obstruction it had as yet failed to overcome. + +Viewed at all points, the stream conducted by Nature outfaced, in my +eyes, the neighbour work of her children; coursing onward, as it went, +defying the hand of man, and rejoicing in its rude freedom. + +About the most savage part of our ride, where the path was a wide +rampart of stone without any parapet, bounded on one hand by the canal +and the overhanging rocks through which it was cut, and on the other, at +a precipitous depth of eighty feet, by the rocky bed of the river, we +were threatened with a hurricane, or other outbreak of the elements, of +the wildest kind. + +It had become on a sudden unnaturally sultry: before us a cloud fell +like a huge black curtain, until resting upon the lofty bluffs between +which the river now ran, it was draped in folds down to the water; over +this curtain broke a lurid silvery sort of light, making all things +hideous; a heavy moaning sound as of wind was heard throughout the +forest; the leaves shook rattling upon the surrounding shrubs, yet no +air was perceptible even whilst going at a gallop. For a moment this +strange sound would cease wholly, and then roar forth again, as though +the pent tempest was striving close at hand for space and freedom of +action. + +Occasionally a vivid flash of lightning would stream from the impending +cloud downward upon the river; and, in momentary expectation of a +regular tornado, on we spurred to reach some shelter. + +But after all, our fears were fruitless, or let me rather say our +hopes, since we agreed that a hurricane chancing here would be a +consummation singularly happy. It is certain no fitter scene could well +have been selected for such an event, and indeed this was all that was +needed to make the savage grandeur of the picture perfect. + +Expectation had attained its height, when, after a few big splashes of +rain, the sombre curtain drew gradually up, the sun looked forth once +more, shining vividly, and the so lately gloomy waters below, again +laughed and sparkled as they went bounding, gladly, over their rugged +bed. + +About midday we arrived at a house occupied by a person who attends one +of the many locks on the canal; and by the ready aid of this worthy and +his pretty young helpmate, our horses and ourselves were well supplied +with _vivres_, and otherwise cared for. + +After we had discussed sundry rashers of ham, broiled chicken, and +new-laid eggs, we were informed by our friend the lock-keeper, who had +been examining the ford, that the frail bridge which had recently served +to cross a branch of the stream to an island from whose southern side +alone the Falls might be surveyed, was no longer in being. + +What was to be done? was the whole purpose of our hard ride to be +defeated by the dislocation of a few loose planks? Our cool pioneer even +admitted that it seemed "mighty hard," and called his spouse to council; +but from her we received small hope, as she at once decided that to +cross so as to get anywhere within sight of the Falls was impossible. + +We as stoutly declared our resolution to attempt fording the dividing +current, and requested our host to point out the best probable place for +this purpose. + +This he at last agreed to do; adding that "he guessed, with more or less +of a ducking, we might gratify our curiosity, though he could not help +thinking it was mighty foolish." + +The lady of the lock, more timid, or, as it turned out, more sage, +remonstrated in vain. In the teeth of her advice and predictions, +sufficiently alarming, we mounted our nags, and, under the good man's +guidance, descended to the ford, by a very rough path; the din of the +unseen torrent sounding in our ears. + +On reaching the stream in question, we found it not over twenty yards +across, with an apparently tolerable landing on the opposite side; so +that, albeit it had a threatening sort of look, and bullied and +blustered somewhat loudly, myself and Mr. K----r decided _instanter_ +upon crossing. Our companion, a very tall and heavy man, mounted on a +little thorough-bred steed none the stronger for the severe bucketting +it had already gone through, we very wisely prevailed upon to await our +return, and serve as our guide to the right landing when we should have +to re-cross. + +With all that eagerness with which men rush on novelty, especially when +any obstacle is thrown in the way, we pushed forward, listening +impatiently to the distant thunder of the Falls. Like all obstacles, we +found these before us less in reality than in report, our chief +difficulty lying in the strength of the current, flowing over an unequal +bottom; but in no part was the water up to the horses' shoulders. We +kept their noses well up stream, and, after a little floundering about, +reached and mounted the sandy bank in no time, whence a short rough ride +over the thickly-wooded islet, gave the wished-for sight to our eyes in +all its gloomy grandeur; and never before do I remember having looked +upon so wildly sublime a scene. + +We dismounted; and, tying our horses to a tree, descended into the vast +basin within whose rugged depths the river finds at all seasons ample +space for its fury. Opposite to our stand the face of the black rock +rose perpendicular for a hundred and fifty feet; and over its brow waved +a grove of lofty trees and graceful flowering shrubs, forming together a +plume befitting such a crest, and worthy to float above such a _mêlée_. + +Along in front of our position, and only a few yards off, the river was +precipitated from a ledge of rock, three huge masses of which towered +high over it, lying athwart the line of the torrent at apparently equal +distances, as though Nature had designed to bridge this fearful caldron, +but, having raised these piers had rested, content with this evidence of +her power, and so left the work unfinished. + +Through the intervals of these piers then, if they may be so +denominated, the water was impelled in three distinct columns of foam +with inconceivable impetuosity; then, after forming many vortices, +frightful to contemplate steadily, whirled boiling away beneath the +boldly jutting table-rock, which afforded us sound footing amidst a din +that of necessity made admiration dumb, since to hear your own voice or +any other person's was quite out of the question. + +Oh what a pit of Acheron was here! I would have given a million a-year +to have had Martin with me, pencil in hand, looking upwards upon the +centre one of those three terrible piers. What a throne would it have +made in his hands for the arch enemy of man! How his fancy would have +imaged the lost angel forth, standing there in his might armed for +hopeless combat, shadowed grandly out amidst the silvery vapours curling +round him, whilst up through the raging whirlpools drove the countless +columns of hell in battle array; what tossing of co-mingled plumes and +waves above the thick squadrons of horse, who, with flowing manes and +fiery nostrils, would be seen breaking through and riding over the +foaming torrent, all shadowed forth in a dim reality he knows so well to +deal with, and which, in his creations, leaves the fancy, already +startled by that it can define, afraid to guess at all which yet remains +only half told! + +We wandered here, from point to point, unable to express our +bewilderment and delight otherwise than by pantomimic gestures more +amusing than intelligible; and then, in consideration of the lone +condition of our excellent comrade, began to crawl and climb our way +back to the shade where we had left the horses. + +The table-rocks were everywhere worn into circular basins of greater or +less dimensions; when the floods of spring and autumn subside, these +pools are left well stocked with pike, trout, and other sorts of fish; +the water was at this time exceedingly low, and a long continuance of +premature heat had shortened the allowance of the denizens of these +pools; our near neighbourhood, therefore, deprived as they were of the +means of retreat or concealment, caused a great sensation amongst them, +and much rushing, and floundering, and darting to and fro. + +We joined cordially in commiserating the fate of these unlucky +_détenus_, who, as the summer advances, must, to say the least of it, +become most uncomfortably warm about the middle of the day. K----r +wasted, as I considered, much time in sentimentalizing over their +probable fate, for I found that he loitered behind by every basin which +contained a larger specimen than usual. + +After a rather prolonged halt, I was preparing to _row_ my friend for +his vexatious display of philanthropy, when he came to me with his right +arm soaked up to the shoulder, grievously lamenting his having failed, +by an untimous slip, in securing a fellow of at least nine or ten +pounds' weight. + +"What the devil!" exclaimed I, "is it possible that you contemplated +scrambling your way back to give this finny gentleman the freedom of the +river?" + +"Not at all, my dear fellow," replied my sensitive friend; "I merely +contemplated carrying him to Washington, and giving him the freedom of +the boiler. The Baron would have rejoiced in him; he was a fish for the +Czar himself! Besides, it would have been an act of charity to the poor +devil of a fish, the consummation of whose horrid fate is alarmingly +nigh, since there is not over six inches of water on the rock, and that +already as close as may be upon ninety-four degrees. That one dip has +parboiled my right arm; I must plunge it in the first running water to +cool it." + +I enjoyed a good laugh at K----'s hot-bath fishing, but did not dream of +the thorough cooling in store for my charitable piscator. + +On we dashed, full of excitement and high spirits, and hit the stream +at a point very little below where we had before landed. Captain T----ll +was still on his post; and with less of precaution than we had used at +crossing, in dashed K----r some yards in advance of me, although I being +mounted on a more powerful horse, had before taken the first of the +current whilst my friend rode on my quarter, thus mutually sustaining +each other. + +Whilst I was yet upon the bank, K----'s nag lost his footing, and turned +fairly head over heels in the very middle of the passage, at the +shortest possible notice. The first intimation I got of the event was +missing my man, and in his stead perceiving four bright shoes glancing +in the sun above the broken water. In a moment, however, he emerged to +day once more; and after a second dive or so, gained good bottom, losing +only a few ounces of blood from a broken nose. I led his horse safely +ashore; and the brute, though the least hurt, was by far the most +frightened, for he shook like a negro in an ague fit. + +As for K----r, he bore his mishap with a _sangfroid_ and good-humour +that were admirable: the only regret I heard from him was, that Sir +Charles Vaughan's ball should come off on this night, since his +appearance was marred past present help; and indeed, notwithstanding +applications of whisky, cold water, vinegar, &c. which our friends of +the lock supplied, the nose was growing of a most unseemly size. + +The lock-man expressed much regret; whilst his good lady, I fancied, was +not very sorry to have her predictions fulfilled at so cheap a rate. I +ventured to hint to my friend something about retributive justice, +alluding to his fishy longings amongst the pools; but he rejected the +application with indignation, insisting upon it that his desire to +secure that fine fish was founded in the purest charity. + +We lost no time in setting out for home by a shorter route; and after a +hard, hot ride, got back to the city in good time to dress for dinner, +at which I was sorry to find my philanthropic fisherman did not make his +appearance. This was the only drawback upon the pleasure with which I +contemplated our day's work; indeed I had special cause to regret the +mishap, since it was for my gratification alone K----r was led to push +over this unlucky stream, he having before visited the Falls. However, I +do not forget his amiability upon this and many other similar +occasions, and hereby pledge myself to swim across a broader current, +either with him, or for him, on any day between this and the year of our +Lord 1850. + +Early hours being the mode here, about nine o'clock drove to Sir Charles +Vaughan's, who, in honour of St. George's-day, gave a ball, to which all +the beauties in the capital were bidden. I found the guests on this +occasion less numerous than at one I had attended early in the season, +during my first visit here. The scene was already brilliant as light, +and life, and youth could make it; the music, consisting of a harp and +four other instruments, was exceedingly good; the women were +well-dressed and pretty, and danced with infinite grace and spirit. + +The _tournure_ of an American girl is generally very good; she excels in +the dance, and one sees that she enjoys it with all her heart. In +England I have rarely felt moved to dance; on the other hand, in France +and America, so electric is evident unrestrained enjoyment, I have found +it sometimes difficult to repress the inclination within becoming +bounds. + +About midnight supper was announced; and let it not be forgotten, since +it was of an order worthy the country represented, and our excellent +minister's character for hospitality. After this the party thinned +rapidly, and by half-past one o'clock the ball-room was silent. I +lighted my cigar, and took my accustomed walk up the great avenue to the +Capitol hill, thence surveyed for a moment the silent city, and back to +my quarters at Fuller's, making a distance of full three miles; and so +concluded a busy and right pleasant four-and-twenty hours. + + + + +IMPRESSIONS OF WASHINGTON SOCIETY, PUBLIC AND PRIVATE. + + +I attended several large assemblies at Washington, and must here, after +a second visit, and so much experience as my opportunities afforded, +enter my protest against the sweeping ridicule it has pleased some +writers to cast upon these doings here; since I saw none of those +outrageously unpresentable women, or coarsely habited and ungainly men, +so amusingly arrayed by some of my more observant predecessors. I can +only account for it by referring to the rapid changes ever taking place +here, and to which I have alluded in my introduction to these +"Impressions." + +The ordinary observances of good society are, I should say, fully +understood and fully practised at these public gatherings, and not more +of the ridiculous presented than might be observed at any similar +assemblage in England, if half so much; since here I have commonly found +that persons who have no other claims to advance save money or a seat in +the legislature, very wisely avoid _reunions_, where they could neither +look to receive nor bestow pleasure. + +It is quite true that many of these members, all of whom are by rank +eligible to society, may be met with, who are more rusty of bearing than +most of those within St. Stephen's; but I will answer for this latter +assembly outfacing them in samples of rudeness, ill-breeding, and true +vulgarity: for it is a striking characteristic of the American, that, if +not conventionally polished perhaps, you will rarely find him either +rude or discourteous; whilst amongst those who, in the nature of the +government, are elevated from a comparatively obscure condition to place +and power, although refinement cannot be inserted as an addendum to the +official diploma, the aspirant usually adopts with his appointment a +quiet formal strain of ceremony, which protects himself, and can never +give offence to any. + +In the absence of that ease and self-possession which can only be +acquired by long habitual intercourse with well-bred persons, this +surely is the wisest course that could be adopted, and a hundred degrees +above that fidgety, jackdaw-like assumption of _nonchalance_ with which +the ill-bred amongst ourselves seek to cover their innate vulgarity. + +At all these assemblies, as elsewhere, great real attention is paid to +women; and I vow I have, in this respect, seen more ill-breeding, and +selfish rudeness, at a fashionable rout in England, than could be met +with, at any decent crush, from Natchetoches to Marble-head. Beyond +these points within the States I speak not, since without them the land +is strange to me. + +No levee of the President's has occurred during my sojourn here; but I +learn that in the true spirit of democracy, the doors on these occasions +are open to every citizen without distinction of rank or costume; +consequently the assemblage at such times may be oddly compounded +enough. + +As for private society in Washington, although limited, it can in no +place be conducted in a manner more agreeable, or extended to the +stranger with more unostentatious freedom. Once presented to a family, +and the house is thenceforward open to you. From twelve o'clock until +two, the inmates either visit or receive visitors: between these hours, +the question, "Are the ladies at home?" being answered in the +affirmative, you walk into the drawing-room without farther form; and, +joining the circle, or enjoying a _tête-à-tête_, as it may happen, +remain just so long as you receive or can impart amusement. + +Again, after six, if you are so disposed, you sally forth to visit. If +the family you seek be at home, you find its members forming a little +group or groups, according to the number present, each after their age +and inclination; and politics, dress, or scandal are discussed: or, if +the night be serene,--and what lovely nights have I witnessed here, even +at this early season! (May)--you make a little party to the covered +stoup, or balcony, extended along the back-front of most houses; and +here a song, a romp, a waltz, or a quiet still talk, while away hours of +life, unheeded until passed, but never to be recalled without pleasure. +About eleven the guests generally depart, and by midnight the great +avenue of this city is hardly disturbed by a foot-fall; not a sound +comes on the ear except the short, fierce wrangle of packs of vagrant +curs crossing each other's hunting-ground, which they are as tenacious +of as the Indians are of their prairies. + +At this hour I used often, after returning from a party, such as is +described above, to put on my morning-gown and slippers, and light my +pipe, then sallying forth, have strolled from Fuller's to the Capitol; +and climbing its bold hill, have looked down along the sleeping city, +speculating upon its possible destinies until my fancies waxed +threadbare, and then quietly returned, making a distance of nearly three +miles, without encountering an individual or hearing the sound of a +human voice. + +At set balls even, the first hour of morning generally sees ample space +on the, till then, crowded floor; and the most ardent pleasure-lovers +rarely overleap the second by many minutes. + +The consequence of this excellent plan is, that, although the ladies are +weak in numbers, they are always, to use an expressive sporting phrase, +ready to come again; rising, the morning after a dance, unwearied and +elastic in mind and body. I hope, for the sake of my American friends, +it will be very long before these healthful hours are changed to those +which custom has made fashionable in England; hours that soon fade the +roses even on their most genial soil, the cheeks of the fair girls of +Britain, blighting the healthful and the young, and withering the aged +and the weak. + +Much of the population of Washington is migratory; and, during a long +session, samples may be found here of all classes, from every part of +the Union, whether represented or not. There are, however, generally +resident a few old Southern families, who, together with the foreign +ministers and their suites, form the nucleus of a permanent society, +where the polish of Europe is grafted upon the simple and frank courtesy +of the best of America. Were it not in violation of a rule I have +imposed upon myself as imperative, I could name families here whose +simple yet refined manners would do honour to any community, and from an +intercourse with whom the most fastidious conventionalist would return +satisfied. + + + + +IMPRESSIONS OF ALEXANDRIA. + + +A BLANK DAY. + + +My worthy manager had often pressed me to accompany him on one of our +off-nights to Alexandria, which he assured me boasted a very pretty +theatre, and a population, if not generally theatrical, still capable of +filling the house for two or three nights upon an extraordinary +occasion. Such he was pleased to consider the present; and although I +suggested the probability that most of the play-loving Alexandrians had +most likely, during the late very lovely nights, visited the Washington +theatre, Mr. Jefferson argued, there yet existed a sufficient body, of +the unsatisfied curious, to repay us for our short trip. A steam-boat, +he said, would take down him and his troop, bag and baggage, in a couple +of hours; and, as I was fond of riding, it was for me but a pleasant +canter. + +As it was my intention to pass a few hours at this city, whose spires +might be seen any fine day from George-town heights, and close to which +lived a gentleman whom I had promised to visit, I decided with the +manager upon making trial of our popularity by convening on a certain +evening a public meeting of its inhabitants; our object being similar to +that of most conveners of public meetings, viz. to amuse the lieges and +benefit ourselves. + +The town was advertised of our intended purpose, the night appointed, +and all the usual blowing of trumpets duly done, when on the forenoon of +a lovely day, accompanied by Captain R----y of the navy, I traversed the +interminable-looking bridge uniting the district of Columbia with +Virginia, and entered the _Old Dominion_, as the natives love to +distinguish their State. + +The road was excellent, bordered with turf nearly the whole way, and +commanding extensive and varied views of the Potomac, together with +George-town and the Capitol. I often halted and turned my horse's head +to look upon this picture, for such it truly was. Nothing, in fact, can +be more panoramic than the aspect of these cities, lying in one of the +best-defined and most beautiful of natural amphitheatres, and flanked by +the grandest of rivers. At the distance of five or six miles all the +meannesses of the city are lost sight of, and the extreme ends, so +widely apart, and so worthily bounded, by the Capitol on the north and +the President's mansion, with the surrounding offices belonging to the +state department, on the south, combined with the dock-yard and a few +other large public buildings in the middle distance, give to the +metropolis of America an aspect no way unworthy of its high destiny. + +Arrived at Shooter's Hill, the seat of Mr. D----y, we were encountered +with a welcome characteristic of a Virginian gentleman on his own soil, +and worthy the descendant of an Irishman. + +Here then we dined, took our _tisan de champagne glacée_ upon the +well-shaded gallery fronting the river, and in due time I mounted, and +rode down to the city, to make my toilet and receive the Alexandrians. +The first I soon effected, and the last I should have rejoiced to have +also done; but they would not be received--"the more we waited, the more +they would not come." + +I took possession of the stage, the only portion of the house occupied, +where, eyed by half a dozen curious negroes, who were evidently +amateurs, and by their good-humoured air ready to become admirers, I +awaited the appearance of the audience. In lieu of these, some half-hour +after the time of beginning, Mr. Jefferson made his appearance _solus_, +with an expression half comic, half vexed. + +"It's no go, my good friend," said I. + +"They're not come _yet_" said Mr. J. + +"Nor are they on the road, Mr. Jefferson." + +"They're a long way off, I guess, if they are," said he. + +"And won't arrive in time, that's clear. Hadn't you better postpone the +business _sine die_?" + +"We've nothing else left for it, I fear," said Mr. J., taking a last +careful survey of the well-lighted solitary _salle_: adding, "We must +dismiss." + +"That ceremony will be quite superfluous," observed I, "unless as far as +we ourselves are concerned, and our sable friends here." + +I had observed that the two or three little knots occupying the +intervals of the side-scenes were evidently interested observers of our +debate, and grieved and disappointed by the result. I should have liked +to have put them all into the front, and then have acted to them, could +one have insured their not being intruded on by any stray white-man. As +it was, Mr. Jefferson begged me to consider myself at perfect liberty. + +"It's provoking too," added my good-humoured manager, who was quite a +philosopher in his vocation; "for it's a pretty theatre, isn't it?" + +"It is a very pretty theatre," responded I. And so it was, exceedingly +so. It had been built when the place flourished, and the community was +prosperous and could afford to be merry. Now, trade having decayed, and +money ceased to circulate, the blood has also grown stagnant amongst +this once gay people: the fire is out and the drama's spirit fled. + +Mr. Jefferson, however, had a much more summary mode of accounting for +our desolate state; for, on my suggesting that his bills might have been +ill distributed or his notice insufficient,--being rather desirous thus +to find a loophole for my vanity to creep out of,--he convinced me that +all points of 'vantage had been most provokingly well cared for. + +"What the plague can be the reason they won't come for _once_, at least, +Mr. J.? One would be less surprised at their not answering to a second +summons." + +Jefferson shook his head, in a fashion that expressed more than even +Puff designed Lord Burleigh's shake to convey:[9] adding, by way of +commentary, + +"The Bank question, sir! all the Bank question!" + +I waited for no more, feeling that this was indeed an explanation +sufficiently satisfactory; since, for some time, it served to account +fully for every possible event, moral and physical,--the depression of +the markets, the failure of the fruit-crop, the non-arrival of the +packets, the sinking of stock, and the flooding of the Ohio. + +Joining my friends at the hotel,--an exceedingly good one, by the +way,--we were soon once more in saddle; and, lighted by as beautiful a +moon as ever silvered the smooth surface of the Potomac, off I dashed +with them, for Washington at a slapping pace, in no way regretting my +having visited Alexandria or my premature return, since my day had been +most delightfully passed: and my not having a _soirée_ of my own, +enabled me to assist at one given by a very charming and intelligent +person, to which I was bidden, but in consequence of my engagement to +Mr. J. had no hopes of attending. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[9] See "The Critic." + + + + +THE FANCY BALL. + + +This species of entertainment, so common in Europe, is in a great +measure a novelty in the States; for although in New York and +Philadelphia _materiel_ may be procured in abundance,--and there is no +lack of either wealth or spirit to put it in requisition,--yet the +society is too much divided to admit of numbers, and variety, sufficient +to relieve the groups from sameness and consequent insipidity. At +Washington, I believe, there had never been more than two or three +attempts made; when, therefore, Senator W----e, of Florida, issued cards +for a "Fancy Ball," with little more than a week's notice, the whole of +the visiting community was thrown into confusion, and, indeed, despair. +A rush was at once made upon the _materiel_; the candidates were many, +the supplies few; and all were eager to monopolise as far as was +possible. + +In twenty-four hours after the summons had gone forth, not a plume of +feathers, a wreath of flowers, or a scarf or ribbon _couleur de rose_ or +_flamme d'enfer_, could have been purchased in the city of Washington. + +It was most amusing to assist at the consultations of the ladies: not a +portfolio but what was rummaged, not a pencil but what was in +requisition copying or inventing authorities for all sorts of real and +imaginary costume. + +Every man who either possessed, or was supposed possessed of, an iota of +taste, suddenly found himself greatly increased in importance. The +position of these virtuosi became enviable in the extreme: they ran or +walked about the streets with an air of well-pleased mystery, their +hands filled with delicate-looking triangular billets; they entered the +residences of the most admired belles without knocking; they were +consulted, caressed, listened to anxiously, smiled upon gratefully: in +short, for three or four days, their influence seemed only limited by +their discretion; they moved "air-borne, exalted above vulgar men." + +But all human happiness is transient at best, and even the sovereignty +of taste could not endure for ever. As the costume became settled, the +fair clients fell off; the portfolios were returned with "thanks;" the +drawings, so lately pronounced "perfect loves," and gazed upon as though +worthy the creation of a Rubens, were now to be found doubled up in the +card-rack, or transfixed by two or three pins on the cushion of a +work-table; the three-cornered missives circulated in other channels; +and the man of Taste found ample leisure once more to speak to a friend +in the avenue, or fall quietly into the ranks at a dinner-party. + +Nevertheless, up to the last hour, the ladies continued, if words might +have been trusted, in absolute despair; and in truth, when one examined +into the resources at their command, the case seemed desperate enough. +To be sure, Baltimore was near, and was soon under contribution; even +Philadelphia and New York were lightly visited, more than one belle +having sent thus far for a dress. Some of these, by the way, were, like +the Chevalier de Grammont's, swamped on the road, to the mortification +of the fair expectants. + +Three or four gentlemen joined company in getting up a diplomatic group, +which my friend Kenny's little comedy of "The Irish Ambassador" had here +made very popular. Of this group I formed a part; and being honoured by +the company of an embassy from a new quarter, in the portly person of +"His Excellency minister extraordinary, and Plenipotentiary, from the +Dry Tortugas," together with his Secretary of legation and suite, our +equipages, as we left Fuller's, made rather a formidable show. + +Many other well-dressed groups of men were known to us as being +prepared, and it was for the ladies only I felt any fear of a lame +conclusion. But what will not the ingenuity of woman effect when +inclination prompts and pleasure leads the way! + +I entered the reception-room, quite sorrowing for one or two of my +personal friends, whose regret at being so miserably unprovided up to +the last hour had met sympathy from my credulous simplicity, when, lo! +here I found these fair sly things set forth in character, all plumed +"like estridges." + +We made our bows to the lady patroness, a very charming person, habited +as Isabel de Croye, and attended by a suite of well-chosen characters, +very tastefully gotten up. Here were girls so unquestionably Greek, that +any good Christian would willingly have ransomed them without suspicion +of their country or quality; together with Turkish maidens, whose +appearance would have dazzled and deceived even the argus-eyed +guardians of the Imperial serai. + +I was struck with the great variety of Asiatic costume present, of the +richest and most perfect kind, both male and female: a couple of women, +with fine black eyes and features of remarkable classic beauty, wore the +costume of Tripolitan ladies of the highest rank, and it would be +difficult to conceive anything richer or more strikingly picturesque. +The Mediterranean is the favourite cruising ground of the American navy; +and from this abundant wardrobe, of the most becoming costumes, every +ship imports specimens for their friends at home. On this occasion these +had been laid under requisition to excellent purpose. + +There were two attempts only, as far as I remember, to embody character, +as is more usual in masquerade; but these were both remarkable for their +excellence. The most striking in appearance was a young officer of the +United States' army, habited as an Osage warrior, painted and plumed +with startling truth. Surrounded by all that was presumed to be strange +and bewildering, never for a moment did the well-trained young warrior +forget what was due to himself or his tribe: he looked on with the most +imperturbable _sangfroid_, moved about with the ease and self-possession +of one to whom all he mingled with had been a matter of common usage; +heard jests, questions, or friendly explanations with the most unmoved +gravity, replying by an occasional "Ou, ou!" or a slow bend of his head: +his patience was indeed worthy the most tried of the race he +represented, for never did he lose it or forget himself for a moment. He +was a very fine young man, and the features of his face appeared to have +been moulded to his present purpose. + +The other was a Yankee young man, as he described himself, "jist come +away south, to see about;" and who, "noticin' that all kinds o' queer +men was comin' in here without payin' nothin', thought he'd best jist +step in tu, and make one among the lot." + +And of a certainty he did make the queerest specimen I ever met in this +or any other lot. The supporter of this character was young Mr. W----r. +The total change in his appearance was effected by a certain set of the +hat and a mode of placing it on the head quite characteristic, together +with an odd hanging on of the coat and vest, which gave them the look +of having belonged to some one else, and as likely to fit any one as the +present wearer. + +I had seen the original of this picture in the north, I had also +witnessed it admirably represented by Messrs. Hill and Hacket, the rival +Yankees of the American stage; but neither of them, I think, were so +minutely perfect or so whimsical as this new actor. The abstraction was +complete; and the odd questions, guesses, complicated relations, full of +drollery and wholly applicable to the present scene and the actors +engaged in it, were replete with humour, exhibiting a compound of vulgar +assurance, simplicity, and native shrewdness, not surpassed by any +assumption I have ever witnessed. + +Although quite intimate with this gentleman, I stood for a while +listening to him where he stood grinning amidst a group who were +quizzing and questioning him, and for a short time imagined it was some +veritable rustic they held immeshed. It was not until after I had +learned who it was, that I succeeded in recognising a person who had +been sitting with me that very morning. + +A few of the gravest of the senators alone had been privileged by the +host to appear _en habit de ville_, and these paid for their privilege +before they got clear off. Their potent seignorships, in truth, soon +found themselves exceedingly ill at ease here: jostled by lawless +pirates, lassoed by wild Guachos, and plundered of their loose cash by +irresistible broom and orange girls, they were fain to make an early +retreat, with as good a grace as might be assumed, under circumstances +so subversive of all due gravity. + +If enjoyment be the object of such meetings, nothing could be more +absolutely attained than it was at this little fancy ball; for a scene +of higher festivity and good-humour no man could desire to assist at. It +had, however, the sin to account for of keeping its fair patronesses +together some two hours later than any other _fête_ I witnessed in this +most wisely merry capital. + +On reaching Fuller's, accompanied by a joyous knot of diplomatists, it +was discovered to be over three hours past midnight; a novelty in +etiquette which it was decided _nem. con._ would have "plenty of +precedents _after_." + + + + +LIONS OF WASHINGTON. + + +THE INDIAN CABINET.--HOUSE OF +LEGISLATURE.--SENATE.--LADIES.--SENATORS.--PRESIDENT. + + +The principal lions of Washington, after the legislative chambers, are +the Navy-yard, the President's mansion, the National Exhibition, +connected with the patent-office, containing specimens of mechanical +inventions either original or considered such by their industrious +projectors, and lastly the offices for the department of State. + +In the latter was a chamber which to me offered more attractions than +all the other objects put together: it contained a collection of +original portraits of the most distinguished amongst the aborigines, +allied with or opposed to the States. + +This is an object well worthy the care of government, and, it is to be +hoped, one that will be persevered in, for yet but a few years, and here +will be the only memento left of the Red-man within the land. Something +is due to the memory of these savage warriors and legislators; this +tribute serves to render them a sort of poetical justice, and wins a +sympathy for their fate, through their portraits, which might have been +withheld from themselves,--at least, judging of those I have seen, +drunken, dirty, and debased. + +Here, indeed, they show gallantly out, the untameable children of the +forest, the lords of the lake and of the river, some of them absolutely +handsome, their costume being in the highest degree chivalric; many, +unluckily, are clad in a mixed fashion, half Indian, half +American,--grotesque, but unbecoming when compared with the gaudily +turbaned and kilted Creek, or the plumed and painted Winnebago, who, +leaning on his rifle beneath a forest tree, and listening with a keen, +unwearying aspect for the coming tread of his foe or his prey, looks +like a being never born to wear harness or own a master. + +A few of the chiefs are painted in the full-dress uniform of the +American army, but are not for an instant to be mistaken; although Red +Jacket, the great orator and warrior, and one or two others have +features exceedingly resembling some of the Provençal _noblesse_ of +France: the common expression is, however, almost uniformly +characteristic of their nature, cold, crafty, and cruel; I hardly found +one face in which I could have looked for either mercy or +compunction--always excepting the women, of whom here are a few +specimens. It would be but gallant to add to the number, if there are +many such amongst the tribes; for the features of these are pretty, +their expression truly feminine and gentle, with the most dove-like, +loveable eyes in nature. + +I, some time after this, found a very fine work in course of publication +at Philadelphia, containing coloured prints, large folio size, made from +these and other original sources; with accurate biographical notices of +the most important amongst the chiefs, and a detailed account of their +history and habits. The author is Colonel M'Kenny, for many years +resident Indian agent, living amongst and with the people he describes; +and combining with these opportunities education, intelligence, and much +enthusiasm on the subject. In this work will be given correct +translations of their highly expressive but unpronounceable +appellations; and as much justice done to their characters, as, I can +answer for it, has been already rendered to their outward form and +features. + +The courtesy which distinguishes officials of every rank in this +country makes a visit to this, or any public place, not only a matter of +pleasure but of profit to the stranger; since one rarely returns without +some anecdote or information connected with the object visited, given in +an off-hand agreeable manner, which is in itself a gratification. I have +never been a sight-hunter in Europe, and this not from indolence or lack +of laudable curiosity, I believe; but simply through considering the +forms and difficulties that hedge in most places and persons worthy +observance, more than equivalent to the gratification to be won from a +sight of them. The case is different here: there is no unnecessary fuss +or form; the highest public servants are left to protect themselves from +impertinent intrusion; and to the stranger, all places that may be +considered public property are perfectly accessible, without any tax +being levied on his pride, his patience, or his purse,--matters which +might be amended in England, greatly to the advancement of our national +character, and in these reforming days not unworthy consideration. + +I was a good deal amused looking over the various costly gifts which +have been, from time to time, presented by foreign potentates to the +distinguished public servants of America, all of which are here +collected; the law not permitting those on whom they were bestowed to +retain them, although yielding to the custom which has rendered such +marks of courtly approbation customary amongst the great ones of Europe. + +I could not help smiling as I fancied the disgorgement of all the +_cadeaux_ exchanged between ministers and generals, and treaty-makers +and breakers, since 1812, an epoch fruitful of such courtesies. Why, it +would pay off the national debt of the general government of this +country, and leave a surplus for watering the streets of the capital, if +the legislature did not find fault with the appropriation, and continue +to prefer being blinded, as they are at present, rather than purchase a +few water-carts for the corporation, which it seems is too impoverished +to afford any outlay on its own account. + +There was nothing that puzzled me more, on a first view of the matter, +than the utter indifference with which the Americans look upon the +exceedingly unworthy condition of their capital, when considered in +relation with the magnitude, the greatness, and prosperous condition of +their common country. During months of every session, the roads leading +through the district of Columbia are all but impassable: independent of +the discomfort and delay consequent upon their condition, hardly a +season passes without some member or other being injured more or less by +overturns, which are things of common occurrence; yet, only let +government insert one extra item in the budget to be applied to the +service of this their common property, and all parties from all quarters +of the Union unite to reject the supply. + +I heard of a curious instance of this jealousy of poor Columbia whilst +on my last visit here. The great avenue, or principal street, leading +from the President's house to the Capitol, had recently been redeemed +from mud according to the plans of M'Adam; but the exposure of the +situation, and the nature of the material employed, rendered the +improvement rather questionable: every breeze that now blew filled the +atmosphere with thick clouds of dust charged with particles of mica, +which really made it a hazardous matter to venture forth on a gusty day, +unless in a closed carriage, when tired of sitting at home, suffocated +with heat, or smothered with dust by the wind, which ought to have +borne health and comfort on its wings instead of this eighth plague. + +Every one complained, all suffered; members, senators, the President, +and the cabinet, all were having dust flung in their eyes, at a period +when the commonwealth required that they should all be most especially +keen and clearsighted. The Potomac, meantime, swept by them, clear and +cool, and the classic Tiber could with difficulty be kept out of their +houses. The Romans would have made their Tiber useful on such an +occasion, and the ready remedy at length suggested itself to the +half-smothered senators. The sum of a few hundred dollars was promptly +voted to abate the evil, in conjunction with the Tiber, whose +contribution was here on demand. The bill was, however, rejected on its +farther course: the dust continued to rise, the people saved their +dollars, their representatives continued blind, and the banks of the +Tiber remained undrawn on. + +If you venture an observation upon this obvious absence of all decent +pride in their capital, as being somewhat singular in a people who seem +wrapt in their country, and solicitous that it should show worthily in +the world's eyes, the case is admitted, and accounted for readily +enough, but by no means creditably, in my mind. + +The members from Louisiana or Maine will tell you that they cannot +satisfactorily account to their constituents for voting sums of money to +adorn or render convenient a city these may never see, and for whose +very existence they have no care. + +The man from the great western valley will shrug up his shoulders at +your observation, admit its truth, but add, that the idea of the +continuance of Washington, as the metropolis of the Union, and seat of +the general government, is a ridicule, since this ought clearly to wait +upon the tide of population, and be situated west of the Alleghanies. + +Neither of these answers are worthy the country or the American people: +the citizen voters of these distant states should be reminded that the +district of Columbia is their common property, and Washington the +capital of their great Union, representing them in the eyes of +strangers, and from whose present condition the least prejudiced +European will find it difficult to avoid drawing injurious conclusions. + +Without internal resources, and entirely dependent upon the government, +it would be worthy their national grandeur to make this district a type +of that grandeur; and its city, as far as all public buildings and +general conveniences might be concerned, second to none in the world. + +Presuming even its occupation to be temporary, and that, at no distant +period, it will be deserted, left again to the dominion of nature, to be +once more incorporated with the forest,--why, a Russian boyard has +raised as fine a city, to lodge his royal mistress in for one night, and +set it on fire to light her home on the next after! + +Were it of a certainty to be deserted in ten years, I would, were I a +representative about to be sent to it, say to my clients: "As for +Washington, let us build, beautify, and render it habitable and +convenient, so that, when hereafter the European traveller seeks its +ruins in the forest, he shall never doubt but that he looks upon the +site once honoured as the capital of the American people." + +I have, when in conversation with intelligent friends here, delivered +similar sentiments, and they have smiled at them without admitting +their justice or applicability: I now set them down for their further +amusement, not because I imagine they will be a tittle the more +regarded, but simply because such were my "Impressions" of Washington. + +I went several times to the senate-chamber and the hall of the +representatives; but was not fortunate enough to hear a debate in the +latter, or find any very important topic under discussion. Speeches I +never found much attraction in anywhere, unless deeply interested in the +subject of them; and those of the American assembly are rather made to +be read than to be listened to. The arguments, thus delivered in +Washington, are in fact directed to, and intended for, the constituents +of the party, to whom they are directly forwarded in the shape of most +formidable-looking pamphlets, no matter to what distance, post-free, +serving as an exposition of the author's sentiments, and an evidence of +his industry. + +In the senate I had the happiness to hear a slight matter debated, in +which Messrs. Clay and Forsyth took part; and I was struck with the +force and fluency of the one, and the gentlemanlike tone and quiet +self-possession of the other. Mr. Henry Clay reminded me strongly of +Brougham, when the latter happens to be in one of his mildest +moods;--the same facility of words and happy adaptation of them; the +same bold, confident air, as though assured of his auditory and of +himself; and withal, a touch of sly caustic humour, conveyed in look and +in manner, that an adversary might well feel heedful of awakening. + +Mr. Webster, another of the thunderers of the senate, was in his place +on the occasion I allude to, but did not rise, which I was exceedingly +anxious he should do, for I had already heard him speak at Boston, and +never remember to have been more impressed. The cast, and setting on, of +his head is grand, quite antique, his features massive and regular, yet +in their expression, and in the calm repose of his deep-set black eyes, +there is a strong resemblance to the native Indian, with whose blood, I +believe, the great orator claims close affinity. + +Mr. Van Buren's manner I thought highly characteristic of his political +character,--cool, courteous; with a tone quiet but persuasive, a voice +low-pitched, but singularly effective from the clearness of his +enunciation and well-chosen emphasis. He bestows an undivided attention +to the matter before the house becoming his situation. + +As vice-president, this gentleman is chairman of the senate; a situation +at this time of peculiar delicacy, considering his position as the +proclaimed director of the measures of General Jackson's cabinet, and +heir to his party and his power. His filling this chair with so little +reproach under assaults and provocations which it required the greatest +good temper and good sense to encounter or turn aside, I consider no +slight evidence of that wisdom and political sagacity for which his +party give him credit, and which have acquired for him amongst his +admirers the familiar cognomen of the Little Magician. + +The ladies, however, formed the chief attraction of the senate-chamber. +Occupying a sort of passage or gallery on a level with and circling +round two-thirds of the floor, here they sit, listening to their +favourite speaker wherever he may be engaged, either before the +President's chair boldly advancing the common interest, or behind some +fair politician's, timidly seeking to advance his own, and hence, deal +forth their award in well-pleased smiles, in due proportion to the +eloquence of the speaker, public or private. + +This is a custom the advantages of which I am sorry to find are about +to be tested in England. Shame that a man should ever have to express +regret that one other muster-place had been invented for a _reunion_ of +pretty faces! But such is my honest impression, and with me honesty is +paramount;--a quality which must serve to balance my discourteous +opinion, and restore me to the sex's favour. Then again, I am not of the +Commons' House, or likely to be; and do not choose, perhaps, that the +members should divide with me that part of my audience I value most, and +would desire if possible to monopolize. + +Why then, it may be asked, are these your only reasons? In reply permit +me to say, I have a reserve of minor importance, but which may be added +as a make-weight to my graver argument,--I do not think the place will +become them, or that the habit of hearing debates will improve them. I +had as soon see a woman a dragoon as a politician: not a Hussar; for I +have seen a lady of our land make a very dashing hussar, without +forfeiting one charm as a woman. No: I mean a "Heavy," with jackboots +and cuirass, helmet and horse-hair; and to this condition will the +novelty of the thing, if it becomes a fashion, possibly degrade our +gentle, retiring, womanly women. + +Let me here, however, declare, that it does not appear to have had this +fatal effect upon the American ladies, since I never found one amongst +them who thought about talking politics, unless it was with some snob +who was too stupid to talk any nonsense less dull. But then they are +born to the manner, and very few of them resident in the capital. It is +only a novelty, therefore, enjoyed once or twice; then yawned over, +voted tiresome, and forgotten. + +On the other hand, our ladies, who would be most likely to monopolize +the house, are in town for the whole session, eager for new excitement, +and prepared to die martyrs to anything that may become the rage: then +again, although I will answer for their capability of remaining silent +during a debate, unless they are differently constituted from their fair +kinswomen, t'other side the Atlantic, yet is there a coming and going, a +rustling of silk and pulling off of gloves, a glancing of sparkling +rings and yet more sparkling eyes, anything but promoters of attention +or order in the house; besides the danger of a faint or two during a +crush or a row amongst the members,--the latter, if one may rely upon +the journals, a thing of nightly recurrence now. + +I have many other good reasons to advance, but as they chiefly apply to +the younger members, I think it useless to add them; indeed, my object +in saying so much is rather to justify my expressed opinion, than from +either the desire or hope of seeing an order so likely to prove +agreeable to the Commons' House rescinded. + +Politics have rarely run higher, or assumed an aspect more startling to +a European, than during my residence in the States; and though it is not +my intention to deal largely with a subject which every brother +scribbler, who spends his six months here, arranges to his great ease +and perfect satisfaction, yet, whenever I think my object of making the +people known may be advanced by giving a smack of their politics, I +shall do so with perfect freedom, considering this as ground on which +the best friends may differ without any impeachment of good feeling or +sound judgment. + +The assumption of a new power by the President in the removal of the +national fund, upon his own responsibility, from the United States +Bank, and in violation of the terms of their unexpired charter, deranged +for a time the credit of the community, and convulsed the land from one +extremity to the other. During this panic, remonstrances and prayers for +redress poured in from one party; whilst addresses, laudatory and +congratulatory, were duly gotten up by the other. + +The sea-board cities, together with every trading community, crowded the +capital with deputations, praying the President to restore the monies +and heal the national credit, until their importunities became so +frequent, so personal, and led to such undignified altercations between +these delegates and the chief of the government, that the gates of the +palace were fairly closed against them; and, as the Whig journals +expressed it, "for the first time, the Republic beheld the doors of the +chief magistrate barred upon delegates charged to pour out the +sufferings of the people, to remonstrate against their causes, and to +awaken their author to a sense of his tyranny and injustice." + +In senate and congress the tone assumed by this party against +government, and the violence of the language used, become really +startling to the ears of the subject of a monarchy: for instance, Mr. +Webster, in a recent speech, drew a parallel between Sylla and the +President, or _Dictator_, as he styled him, of the States, by no means +disadvantageous to the Roman; showing how the tyrant of old first +excited the populace, by the basest flattery, to overturn the +restrictive power of the senate; which done, and his lawless will being +left without a check, he turned upon his restless, ignorant allies, and +slaughtering them by thousands, succeeded in prostrating their liberties +and the freedom of his country: the speaker adding, + +"I fear the worst fate of Rome is hanging over us; whether that of Sylla +be in store for our despot, I know not. Should he, however, abdicate at +the end of three years (Sylla's term), he will be hunted by the cries of +a guilty conscience and by the curses of an outraged people, more +intolerable than the pangs which tortured in his last moment the Roman +tyrant!" + +In anticipation of another speaker's assault, a journalist says, + +"We may, when he delivers his sentiments,--which will be indeed the +reflex of public opinion,--look to behold the fur fly off the back of +the treacherous old usurper, our implacable tyrant," &c. &c. + +On the other hand, the adulation of the administration exhausts +panegyric in the President's praise: his qualities are proclaimed to be +superhuman, his intuitive wisdom and farsightedness approaching to +omniscience; by this party he, indeed, is all but deified. The +vice-president proclaims that he shall consider it honour enough to have +it known that he held a place in his counsels. Members of the +legislature, of sound age and high character, dispute in their places +within the house their seniority of standing as "true _soldiers_ of the +General's administration;" an odd title, by the way, independent of the +strangeness of the avowal, for a representative of the people. + +The assumption of the act of responsibility, and its exercise, it is +argued by this party, have been decisive as to the conservation of the +_morale_ of the country, without which their liberties were held by a +tenure liable to be quickly subverted, and the blood, and toil, and +treasure of their predecessors spent in vain; that the integrity of +their institutions was by this act assured, and the continuance of the +people's happiness and prosperity based upon marble, unimpeachable and +to endure for ever! + +In every society, in all places, and at all times, this subject is +all-absorbent amongst the men. Observing with pity a very intelligent +friend arrested in the lobby of a drawing-room which was occupied by a +whole bevy of beauty, and there undergo a buttoning of half an hour +before he could shake off his worrier, I inquired with a compassionate +air, just as he made his escape, "whether he would not be glad when the +present ferment was over, and this eternal spectre laid in the sea of +oblivion?" + +"No, indeed," replied my friend coolly; "since it would only vanish to +be succeeded by some other, in reality not quite so important perhaps, +but which, for lack of a better, would be made to the full as absorbing +of one's time and patience." + +And this is strictly true: whatever subject may turn up is laid hold on, +tooth and nail, by the _Ins_ and _Outs_ of the day, who, dividing upon +it, lift banners, and under the chosen war-cry, be it "Masonry," "Indian +treaties," or "Bank charter," fairly fight it out; a condition of +turmoil, which, viewed on the surface, may appear anything but desirable +to a man who loves his ease and quiet, and troubles himself with +nothing less than with affairs of state, but which constitutes one of +the personal taxes men must pay who look to govern themselves, or who +desire to fancy that they do so. + +It is a matter of great regret to me that there occurred no levee whilst +I was in Washington; because, had one taken place, I should have enjoyed +the honour of a closer view of the venerable chief of the States than I +could snatch from seeing him pass two or three times on the avenue. Not +but that there are facilities enough afforded for a presentation to one +who is never denied when disengaged from his public duties; facilities +which it may be very right and proper for the American citizen to avail +himself of, but which good taste might suggest to the stranger, +especially the Englishman, it would be more becoming in him to forego: +as it is, I have frequently, in travelling, heard Europeans talking with +the most offensive familiarity of having called upon the President, who +at home would have stood hat-in-hand in their county magistrate's +office, waiting for an interview with the great man. + +As viewed on horseback, the General is a fine soldierly, well-preserved +old gentleman, with a pale wrinkled countenance, and a keen clear eye, +restless and searching. His seat is an uncommonly good one, his hand +apparently light, and his carriage easy and horseman-like; +circumstances, though trifling in themselves, not so general here as to +escape observation. + +His personal friends, of whom I know many most intimately, speak of him +with great regard, and describe him politically as one whose singleness +of purpose and integrity of mind, in all that relates to his country, +can never be fairly impeached upon any tenable ground. With these +friends, without regard to rank or station, he lives at all times on the +most familiar terms. When in his neighbourhood, they visit him as they +have ever done, without finding the slightest increase of form; and, +over his cigar, the President canvasses the events and receives the +opinions of the day with all the frankness of an indifferent party, +neither affecting nor enforcing mystery or restraint. + +His address is described as being naturally fluent, pleasing, and +gentlemanlike: this I have from a source on which I can confidently +rely; for both the wife and sister of an English officer of high rank, +themselves women of remarkable refinement of mind and manners, observed +to me, in speaking of the President, that they had seldom met a person +possessed of more native courtesy or a more dignified deportment. + +To another of the great ones of the land I had an introduction, which, +as it is characteristic of the man, I will here relate. One afternoon, +about dusk, being on my way to a family party at the house occupied by +the late Secretary of the Navy, Mr. Southard, I thought I had run down +my distance, and began an inspection of the outward appearance of the +houses, all puzzlingly alike, when a couple of men, lounging round a +corner, single file, smoking their cigars, chanced to cross my track. +Addressing the rearmost, I inquired, "Pray, sir, do you chance to know +which of the houses opposite is Mr. Southard's, the senator from New +Jersey?" + +"I do know where Mr. Southard's house is," replied the stranger, eyeing +me as I fancied somewhat curiously; "though it is not exactly opposite. +But surely you and I have met before now,--more than once too, or I am +greatly mistaken?" + +"That is more than probable, sir," replied I, "if you are fond of a +play. My name is Power, Mr. Power of the theatre." + +"I thought so," cried the stranger, holding out his hand; adding +cordially, "My name, sir, is Clay, Henry Clay, of the senate; and I am +glad, Mr. Power, that we are now personally acquainted." + +I need hardly say, I joined in expressing the pleasure I derived from +any chance which had procured me this honour, begging that I might not +detain him longer. + +"But stop, Mr. Power," said the orator;--"touching Mr. Southard's;--you +observe yonder long-sided fellow propping up the post-office down below; +only that he is waiting for me, I'd accompany you to the house; which, +however, you can't miss if you'll observe that it's the very last of the +next square but one." + +With many thanks for his politeness, I here parted from Mr. Clay, to +pursue my way according to his instructions, whilst he passed forward to +join the tall gentleman, who waited for him at some distance near the +public building which he had humorously described him as propping. + +An accidental interview of this kind, however brief, will do more to +prejudice the judgment for or against a man, than a much longer and more +ceremonious intercourse. I confess my impressions on this occasion were +all in Mr. Clay's favour; they were confirmatory of the _bonhommie_ and +playful humour ascribed to him by his friends and admirers, who are to +be found throughout every part of the country. + +The very day following this little incident I bade adieu to Washington, +after a second prolonged visit. I had here encountered and mixed with +persons from every State of the Union, and became thus in possession of +the means of making comparisons, and drawing conclusions, such as no +other single city, or perhaps any period less generally exciting, could +have supplied. + +I quitted it gratefully impressed in favour both of its private society +and of the kind and hospitable character of its citizens generally. I +had, whilst here, without delivering a letter, received unlooked-for +attentions and kindnesses from persons the most distinguished for +character and talent: attentions which I am as hopeless of ever being +able to return, as I am incapable of ever being desirous to forget. + + + + +BOSTON. + + +JOURNEY ACROSS THE ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS.--PITTSBURG. + + +The season continued to wear away without any severe demonstration; and +by the 19th of February, the day on which I reached New York on my way +from Washington to Boston, I found the first boat advertised for the +passage, just open, to Providence,--a piece of good luck, by hitting +which I was saved a land journey of two hundred miles. + +We were detained by a fog in the Sound for a few hours, but reached +Providence by three o'clock P.M. next day, and were just ten hours going +the forty miles between that place and Boston; one extra bad bit of +about three miles took an excellent team exactly two hours to pull +through it. I could not conceive the possibility of this road, which I +had seen three months before in a very fair condition, being so utterly +washed out; but the heavy snows of these Northern States would penetrate +ways of adamant, and will for ever exclude them from attaining the +perfection of a well-kept turnpike. + +A little after one o'clock A.M. I was rattled up to the door of the +Tremont; where, late as the hour was, I found friends waiting up for me, +and experienced what at all times is a pleasure, but more especially +after such a cold jolting,--a warm welcome. + +I was now a resident of this city for a month, during which time I +enjoyed a continued series of the most friendly attentions. I found +three or four men, who, like myself, were fond of riding, and together +we rambled over the whole of the surrounding country; and a beautiful +country it is, with its island-gemmed bay and gaily-painted country +seats. One of these, the house of Colonel Thomas Perkins, is seated +within grounds well kept and tastefully laid out, with a very extensive +range of noble hot-houses, within which, at this season and in this +latitude, the fruit and flowers of the tropics were to be found in their +freshest bloom and beauty. I think these grounds are more agreeably +broken, offer a greater variety of soil, and command a finer prospect of +land and sea, than any place I ever visited of equal dimensions. + +We wanted nothing, on many of the fine open mornings we now had, but a +pack of good foxhounds: the land is better cleared than it is farther +south, the covers smaller, with fewer swamps, and no fencing that might +not be crept round or got over by even a moderate-going man. + +I had heard a good many amusing anecdotes of the infinite respect with +which the country people of New England view and address persons of +their own grade, and the utter disregard of decent ceremony which they +evince towards all others: there appeared something so whimsically +exaggerated in these stories, that I never had received them as +veritable history; and when the Duke of Saxe Weimar told of the +coachman's inquiring "Are you the man going to Portland? because, if you +are, I'm the gentleman that's a going to drive you," I set it down for a +good joke, illustrative, perchance, of a _brusquerie_ of manner which +did exist, but not in itself strictly true. I have, however, during my +present sojourn here, received good corroborative evidence of its being +a veracious report. + +I went out on one occasion to partake of a fine black bear, that had +been killed at a house famous for the plenty, the quality, and cooking +of game. There were eight or nine men of the party, some of whom had +ridden out on horseback: in going over a rail-fence close to the house +we were to dine at, the horse I rode struck both hind feet and cast his +shoes: as soon as I got into the yard, where some of the party had +already dismounted, I inquired for the ostler. A good-humoured, +active-looking fellow immediately made his appearance, with whom, being +desirous to have my nag's feet looked after before we set out on our +return, I was led into the following dialogue. + +"Pray, have you a smithy in this neighbourhood?" + +"We've gotten a blacksmith or two, I guess." + +"At what distance is the nearest blacksmith's forge?" + +"Well, I don't 'no; there is a shop about half a mile maybe, or +ther'bouts." + +"Can you have this horse taken down there to get the two hind shoes put +on?" + +"Guess not, 'cept I car' him down myself." + +"Well, will you carry him down yourself?" + +"Well, you see, I can't tell about that nohow at present. Guess I will, +if I can tho', by an' by." + +"But why can't you say whether you will or will not? I'll pay you for +your trouble. Have you any objection to taking the horse down?" + +"Oh no! not at all, by no means. I've no objection nohow to obleege you, +if, you see, I can find some other gentleman to look after my horses +whiles I go." + +My companions, who had been enjoying this cross-examination of my +equivocal friend, now laughed outright, and heartily did I join in the +guffaw: they were to "the manner born," and it was my puzzled expression +that so tickled them; to me, after the first surprise was over, the +whole thing was indescribably droll. I caught instantly "another +gentleman," an idler about the public-house door, who, for a shilling, +found the cast shoes, and undertook to do for the horses whilst the +first gentleman, of the stable, led my nag away to the forge. + +This was a very fair specimen, but we were to be favoured with another +and a better. Mr. T. P----s, a son of the Colonel's, one of the foremost +citizens of this State, was driven out in his English landau, with +certain delicacies not to be expected where we dined. As the coachman, +who was a servant of the old Colonel's, drew up by the inn-door, he was +immediately recognised, and saluted most cordially by the landlord; who, +addressing him by his name,--Jenkins, or whatever it was,--hoped he was +quite well, and was "uncommon glad to see him." During this ceremony, +Mr. P----s had alighted; and, in order to be particularly civil, +observed with great good-humour to the landlord, + +"Ah, my friend, what you remember Jenkins, do you?" + +"Why yes, I guess I ought," replied our host of the game; "I've know'd +Muster Jenkins long enough, seein' he's the _gentleman_ as used to drive +old Tom P----'s coach." + +The fact was, the man knew the Colonel--or old Tom P----s, as he styled +him--quite well, but had forgotten Mr. P----s, who had been much in +Europe, and was, moreover, put quite out of his latitude by the English +landau Mr. Jenkins was driving: he guessed, I suppose, that this +_gentleman_ had hired a new master, and had consequently turned off the +family of his old one. + +Odd as all this sounds, the strangest part of the matter is, that there +appears no disrespect, nor churlishness of manner, conveyed or implied +by this reversal of conventional distinctions. I can at least answer for +the ostler, who required some other _gentleman_ as _aide_, turning out +on this, and on other occasions, a most assiduously civil fellow; and as +for our host, he served up the steaks of his bear as though it might +never have danced to any but the "genteelest o' tunes," and himself have +been its instructor. + +He certainly gave us, in a plain but comfortable way, the best game +dinner possible, including trout and codling of the finest flavour. Let +me add, that I liked the bear vastly; and, after assisting to pick his +ribs, carried away the skin which had once covered them,--not the least +delicate portion of this bruin, by the way, for it was the blackest and +richest fur, of the kind, I ever saw. + +I quitted this hospitable city on the 10th of March, and remained in New +York until the 20th, when I departed for Pittsburg _viâ_ Philadelphia; +although, from the little I had seen of stageing, I would have given a +trifle to have been off the engagement, which I had made without +contemplating the difficulties to be expected in a stage journey of +three hundred miles over the Alleghanies at this early season. I had +latterly, however, heard enough of the condition of this route, or line +as it is called; but the intelligence was of a colour anything but +cheering. + +At Philadelphia I took my place for Pittsburg, in the "Good Intent +line," professing to carry only six inside; but this excellent intention +of the worthy proprietors must be consigned to the commissioners of +pavement in a certain unmentionable place, since it was never fulfilled. +We commenced our journey with seven, the book-keeper making it a favour +that we should take in one gentleman who was greatly pressed for time. I +perceived, as we started, another person get outside, which made us +eight. + +We were very soon transferred to the Columbia rail-road, which was in +progress and now travelled upon for about twenty-one miles: along this I +was rolled over the viaduct whose commencement I had noted, and, I +believe, regretted. According to Mitchell's description, it crosses the +Schuylkill at a place called Peter's Island; is one thousand and +forty-five feet long and forty-one wide, being thirty feet above +water-mark. Of the elevation, when I crossed on this occasion, we had an +excellent opportunity of forming an opinion; for, except a pathway in +the centre, the spaces between the beams had not yet been filled in, so +that we looked through on to the water running beneath: the workmen were +hard at it covering over and filling up; but it was passable in its +present state, and therefore, "Go a-head was the word:"--there's no time +lost here, i'faith! Immediately on crossing this viaduct, you come on an +inclined plane two thousand eight hundred and five feet long: this +struck me as being admirably contrived. + +I was very sorry when we were once again to be re-packed in our stage. +Though one gets accustomed to anything in time, I never exactly brought +myself to view these frequent transfers as a part of travelling to be +rejoiced in. Our system of running a coach through a journey is not yet +adopted here; they still stick to the old plan,--every proprietor his +own vehicle; consequently you are for ever trundling from one to +another, to your own great discomfiture, and to the destruction of any +but the toughest sort of trunks. + +I forget how often we changed coach on this journey; indeed, I fancy +that, during the third night out, I might have effected a transfer or +two in my sleep; but I recollect that they were vexatiously frequent, +and would have been more grievous had the weather been less generally +fair. + +My fellow passengers were, luckily, with one exception, thin spare +fellows, all citizens of the frontier State of Illinois; the fat subject +was a countryman of my own, who had been for many years a resident at +Pittsburg, and was a merry, contented son of Erin as ever jolted over +these rough roads, which he informed me he did once at least in every +season. + +We soon shook into shape: the condition of the turnpike, after the woful +accounts I had received, appeared to me exceedingly passable; indeed, it +was infinitely better than any part of the one between Washington and +Baltimore, or than the Boston and Providence turnpike, as I had last +experienced it. The country through which we rode was under excellent +cultivation; the barns attached to the roadside houses were all large, +brick-built, and in the very neatest condition. The approach to +Lancaster, a fine town about forty miles from Philadelphia, was very +beautiful, and bespoke the people rich in agricultural wealth. I have +seldom seen a finer valley, or one under more careful cultivation. + +The next large place we arrived at was Harrisburg, the capital of the +State of Pennsylvania: it was midnight when we reached it; but I +immediately walked to look at the State-house, where the legislature +assembles, and about which are ranged the public offices. + +The mass appeared large; and the effect of the buildings with their +lofty classic porticos, viewed under the influence of a fine starlight +night, was imposing enough: the situation is well chosen, appearing like +a natural elevation in the midst of a plain, and overlooking the waters +of the Susquehannah, above whose banks the city is built. + +One always feels something like disappointment on entering one of these +capitals, although previously aware that the site is selected with +regard only to the general convenience of the community, and without +reference to the probabilities of its ever becoming important for its +trade or of monstrous size. A European accustomed to seek in the capital +of a country the highest specimens of its excellence in art, and the +utmost of its refinement in literature, and indeed, in all which relates +to society, is necessarily hard to reconcile to these small rustic +cities, whose population is doubled by villages he has only heard named +for the first time whilst journeying on his way to the Liliputian +mistress of them all. As places of meeting for the legislature, I am of +those who think the smallness of the population an advantage. Firstly, +the members are freed from the expense consequent upon living in large +cities; and next, the chambers are removed from having their +deliberations overawed or impeded by any of those sudden outbreaks of +popular madness to which all people are prone, and to which the nature +of this government more immediately exposes it, without possessing any +power quickly to arrest or even control such licence. + +Harrisburg is highly spoken of for the salubrity as well as the beauty +of its site, and gives promise of becoming important in point of +population; at present its inhabitants are about four thousand. + +From this we steered away to the southward, until at Chambersburg we +struck the direct road leading from Baltimore to Pittsburg. We had a +rough night of it; but a halt of an hour at Chambersburg in the morning, +enabled me to make a comfortable toilet and get an excellent breakfast. +Here we took the first spur of the mountains, and from this were on a +continual ascent. + +Up the longer and steeper hills I constantly walked, and was often an +hour in advance of the stage. This mountain region is certainly a very +fine one, and I do not think its grandeur has ever been done justice to +in description. Its attributes are all gigantic: it has the picturesque +ruggedness of the Appenines, without their barrenness; since the valleys +lying between the ridges, wherever they have been cleared, give +evidences of the richest soil. A view from any hill top, however, shows +these clearings to be mere specks in the surrounding forest, which yet +clothes richly the sides of each interminable ridge you cross, fringes +their most rugged summits, and waves over the loftiest peaks. + +At Bedford Springs there is a most excellent inn; but the one at a +miserable village called Macconnelville, presented an aspect anything +but inviting: the precaution of Mr. Head, however, had made me +independent of supplies. On quitting the Mansion-house he had fitted up +a small basket with sundry comforts, which were of infinite use to +myself and comrades, they served as a speedy introduction and a durable +cement to our friendship. + +I like these Western men; their off-hand manner makes you at once at +your ease with them: they abound in anecdote growing out of the state in +which they live, full of wild frolic and hardy adventure, and they +recount these adventures with an exaggeration of figure quite Oriental, +in a phraseology peculiar to themselves, and with a manner most +humorous. + +Much amongst strangers, they have a quick appreciation of character; +and, where they take a dislike, are, I have no doubt, mighty troublesome +customers; they are, however, naturally courteous, and capable of +genuine and inbred kindness, as a little anecdote of my present trip +will serve to illustrate. + +On the morning of our second night out, I observed the Major and his +friends holding a council just as we were stepping into the coach. We +were eight persons, which gave three sitters to two of the seats and two +to the third; by way of relief, my servant or myself frequently mounted +the box, enabling the parties to separate,--a luxury of no mean +importance. On this occasion I noticed, on being about to take my seat, +which was the front one, that it was unoccupied, Sam being on the box, +and three persons on each of the other seats. On requesting that one of +the sitters by my fat friend would share the vacant front with me, the +Major informed me that the arrangement was preconcerted, as they knew I +was not quite so well used to rough roads as they were, and had work +before me on getting to my journey's end; begging me to fix myself +comfortably on the seat, and try and sleep for an hour or two. + +This being a piece of unpurchasable, unthought-for consideration and +civility, I conceived it as well worth notice as the many instances of +brutality which ill-used travellers put on record; but it is by no means +the only example I have seen of these rough subjects' innate kindness, +and, I may add, good-breeding. There is, with them, a give-and-take +system whilst thus roughing it in company, they seek no exclusive +advantage, and evince no selfishness; but they are quick-sighted and +shrewd observers, and I would recommend any who desire to travel +comfortably with them, to carefully suppress any exhibition of +over-regard for self. + +With this precaution, let a stranger, and a British subject, be only +known as such, and if a preference should occur, I will answer for his +standing a good chance of getting it. + +Here I enjoyed my first lesson in what is familiarly termed riding a +rail; and from all such railways I hope to be spared henceforward. The +term is derived from a fence-rail being occasionally used to supply the +place of a broken thoro'-brace, by which all these stages are hung; and +these are, in fact, the only sort of spring that would endure the load +and the "rough breaks" their virtue must go through. + +We broke down by a sudden plump, into a hole, that would have shaken a +broad-wheeled waggon into shavings. Our driver did not approve of any of +the fence-rails in the vicinity, so plunged into the wood, accompanied +by one of my Western companions; and in ten minutes they returned, +bearing a young hickory pole, that the driver assured us was "as tough +as Andrew Jackson himself,[10] and as hard to break, though it might +give a leetle under a heavy load." This was shoved under the body of the +carriage, and rested upon the fore and hind axles: it was lashed fast, +and the spare part of the spar was left sticking out behind, like the +end of the main boom of a smack. The coach body, when rested upon this, +was found to have a considerable list to port; but to have brought it to +an even keel would have been a work of time,--not that such a thing was +contemplated for a moment. The driver was enabled by this ingenious +substitute for a carriage-spring to "go ahead:" the rest was luxury, +which the "Good-intent line" did not bargain for; so we were left to +trim ship to our liking. Contrary to all my experience, I insisted that +the heaviest part of our cargo should be stowed at the bottom, for to +have had my countryman's eighteen stone of solid stuff to prop up, for +twenty miles, would have required the shoulders of Atlas. + +Whilst walking up the mountains, I frequently overtook settlers moving +with all their worldly goods over to the great Western valley. I +generally exchanged a few words with them, and with the more +communicative now and then had a considerable long talk. Most of them +were small farmers and mechanics from the Northern States, who followed +here in the wake of kindred or neighbours, their plan arranged and +their location determined upon. One or two heads of families, however, +told me they were just going to look about, and did not know rightly +where they might set up. + +I overtook one old couple attending a single-horse waggon up +Laurel-hill; and surely, if any laurels awaited them at the summit, they +were hardly enough won. The appearance of this pair attracted me as I +approached the rocky platform where for a moment they had halted to +breathe: the woman was a little creature, dressed in an old-fashioned +flowered gown, with sleeves tight to the elbows, met by black mittens of +faded silk, and a very small close bonnet of the same colour. She had +small brass buckles in her shoes; a cane, like those borne by running +footmen, in one hand, and upon the other arm a small basket, rolled up +within which lay a tabby cat, with which she held a conversation in what +sounded to me like broken French and English. + +The man was a son of Anak in altitude, somewhat bent by years, but +having a soldierlike air. His white hair was combed back, and gathered +behind into a thick club: he wore a long greatcoat, which, if made for +him, gave testimony to a considerable falling-off in his proportions, +for it hung but loosely about him; had a very broad-leaved hat set +jauntily on one side of his head; and supported his steps upon a sturdy +stick. + +I saluted this singular-looking pair, and was by the lady honoured with +an especially gracious curtsey, whilst the gaunt old man bade me good +day in an accent decidedly foreign. I patted the cat of the basket, +addressing it in French, and was in a moment overwhelmed by the delights +of its mistress, who _ciel_'d, and _mon-Dieu_'d, and _quel-plaisir_'d, +until, if her tall _mari_ had not stepped in to the rescue, I do not +know to what lengths her delight might not have carried her. + +The horse was sufficiently rested; the man who drove it was ready to +proceed; and the ancient Parisienne, for such she was, had once more to +ensconce herself beneath the canvass covering of the waggon, into which +I had the honour of assisting herself and her cat, amidst thanks and +excuses blended with all the graceful volubility of a well-bred +Frenchwoman,--for well-bred she was, beyond a doubt. + +"My poor little woman!" said the old giant, as, after the twentieth +adieu, I joined him where he waited a little in advance of the waggon, +and quickened my pace to keep up with his strides,--"she is made too +happy for to-day to hear a gentleman address her in her own language, +and by whom she can be understood;" adding, "You are not a Frenchman, +sir?" + +"I am not," said I, smiling; "but should imagine you are, by the +compliment you so adroitly infer." + +"No, sir," rejoined mine ancient, "I am a Biscayan; bred a ship-builder, +but at present a house-carpenter." + +"But you speak English like a native: how is that?" inquired I, desirous +of continuing the dialogue thus begun. + +"I have been forty years in this good country, and have made better +progress than my poor little woman, though she is well educated and I +have no learning to help me." + +"Madame, then, is not Spanish?" + +"No, sir, she is of Paris; and, what is very odd, that is nearly all she +ever told me of herself. It was in the winter of 1792 that I first met +my poor little woman: I had slept within a few miles of Havre, and was +just turned away from the cabaret, when a little boy joined me, +requesting that I would let him walk with me to the town. We fell into +chat, when I discovered that my new friend had no passport, but that he +had money, and was desirous to escape from France, no matter to what +place. He was in great trouble; cried much; said he had lost all his +friends, and begged me not to desert him. + +"It would be too long a story to tell you all the trouble I had to get +him on board ship with me; but, sir, that little boy is now in the +waggon where you handed him." + +"Your wife!" exclaimed I, affecting surprise, and really greatly +interested. "But when did she disclose her sex to you?" + +"Why, sir, there was no great need of disclosure after we once got to +sea; her cowardice told her story, but I kept her secret till we arrived +at Philadelphia, where we married; and in the lower part of this State +we have lived ever since quietly enough, until lately." + +"And what, at your age, could induce you to cross the mountains, my +friend?" + +"Why, sir, work was scarce in our country place, and I'm told there's a +heap of building raising about Pittsburg, that's one reason; but the +truth is that our politics have changed a good deal in Pennsylvania of +late. In a scuffle at the bar of our hotel, this last election, I got +knocked down and trodden on; my arm was broken, and I a good deal hurt; +and my poor woman took such a horror of the little bit of mobbing we had +that she would make me pull up stakes, and here we are on our last +move." + +We walked on side by side, until the waggon was left far behind and the +coach came up. We had a long talk on the subject of politics; and, +although a stanch American and a republican, I found my friend was +opposed to "the removal of the deposits,"--the universal test of the +day,--and by no means a whole-hog man. But he said, "It is a fine +country and a fine people; I am a citizen, have lived here forty years, +and hope to die here." + +Wishing that his desire might have a late fulfilment, I shook the honest +veteran's hand; and we parted for ever, after an intercourse of three +hours had created a sort of fellowship between us. Here was an humble +chapter from the romance of real life, gleaned, where such an adventure +was least expected, in one of the passes of the Alleghanies. + +The walk up this hill was, independent of the good companionship I +enjoyed, in itself fine: the road circling about dark ravines, from +whose thickly-wooded deeps rose the hollow murmur of closely-pent +currents, whose waters had rarely reflected the rays of the sun; and in +other places clinging to the steep precipice, from whose side it had +been cut, and which was yet burthened with the half-burnt trunks of +hundreds of noble trees that had fallen to make place for it. The view, +too, from the summit was glorious; and I thought as I looked below, +northward and eastward, where two wide openings gave a boundless stretch +of valley to the eye, that my journey was well repaid: but it was not +over yet; and, before we reached Pittsburg, I do not know but that there +were moments when I would have retracted this burst of enthusiasm. + +The third afternoon and night it rained incessantly; the road from +Youngstown, or Greensburg, being nearly as bad as that memorable +Washington turnpike. The delays, too, were unnecessary and frequent; at +some of the changing-places the servants had to be roused, and this was +no easy task. Now and then, an extra independent hand refused to get +up, or denied us help when he was up; in which case the poor devil of a +driver was left to his own resources, with, now and then, the aid of a +half-naked, wretched negro. + +The travelling of the "Good Intent," taking the roads into +consideration, was a capital pace, the horses excellent; but I have set +down, that, on a pretty fair estimate, making allowance for the +exaggerations of discomfort and ill-humour, about nine hours on the +whole line were lost for want of the commonest attention, and the +passengers greatly inconvenienced without any advantage accruing to the +proprietors. + +At length we emerged from the slough, and about daylight on the third +morning were rumbled over the _pavé_ of Pittsburg. + +The inn was closed; but the rough assault of my Western friends soon +roused the bar-keeper, who got his door open just in time to save his +lock from a huge paving-stone, with which the angry Major purposed to +test its power of resistance. + +"Why, you're in an uncommon hurry," exclaimed the half-awakened +bar-keeper. + +"That's more than we can say of you, stranger," retorted the Major. +"What was you about that you didn't hear the coach? Maybe it was the +rain made such a noise you couldn't?" + +"No; does it rain that hard, though?" gaped the matter-of-fact mixer of +liquids. + +"I guess it does; and if it wasn't that you've got the key of the +liquor, it would be only right to put you out into it for an hour; for +you are the hardest-hearted white-man I ever come across, this side the +mountains, or you'd a' moved quicker to let in a dog on such a night." + +A rousing fire and some hot whisky and water soon restored our +good-humour: a bed was quickly arranged for me by a good-natured negro, +who had, I verily believe, just crawled out of it; a fire was lighted in +the little hole it occupied; and in half an hour I was fast asleep on +the banks of _la belle rivière_. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[10] "Old Hickory" is one of the familiar names by which his lovers +delight to designate the venerable President. + + + + +PITTSBURG. + + +My first visit, at an early hour on Monday morning, was to the banks of +the Monongahela, which ran by the bottom of the main street, wherein I +was lodged. The water was at this time low, being fifteen feet under its +highest level: the point of junction with the Alleghany lay, as I +discovered, some way below. The opposite heights, which rise boldly from +the water's edge, looked dark and drear enough, covered as they are with +a stubble of blackened stumps, and a few blasted trees, the ghosts of +the ruined forest. The political economist, however, would find ready +consolation in the mounds of coal-dust, the dingy low-roofed buildings, +together with the swinging of a hundred cranks, worked by the engines +whose smoke is seen curling along the face of the steep hill. It is to +give place to these iron giants that the forest has been felled; and to +supply these with fire, the mountain is in this direction pierced to its +centre. + +Nature has supplied this place with wharves; and the people appear +quite contented with her handiwork, for they are left as she made them. +I counted fourteen steamboats all busied in taking in or discharging +freight; and the river was here and there dotted by keels of a rude, +picturesque construction: everything, indeed, gave evidence of active +and prosperous trade. + +I from hence made a circuit of the principal part of the town, which is +soon accomplished, for it offers nothing externally to arrest the +passer-by for a moment: the streets are narrow, irregular, and +ill-paved; the houses as dirty as the smoke of bituminous coal can make +them, and, though substantially built, are in general wholly destitute +of neatness or ornament. + +Upon Grant's Hill, a spur of one of the surrounding heights, that +thrusts itself boldly into the heart of the delta on which the town is +built, I found a Gothic edifice almost completed, the magnitude and +tasteful design of which attracted me: I entered it, and perceived at +once that it was a place of Catholic worship. From a communicative +little man, whom I observed for some time eyeing me with a sociable +look, I learnt that this was the cathedral; and it stands a pleasing +memorial of the liberality of the sects of this town, having been +raised by voluntary subscriptions made among the numerous congregations +of the place. + +It is a grateful task to record such evidences of the existence of true +Christian charity; they reconcile one to one's fellows, and serve to +balance the barbarous acts of bigotry and blindness which yet +occasionally disgrace the age and degrade humanity. This edifice, when +completed, will be an attractive object, both from its commanding site +and the character of its architecture, which is of the florid Gothic, +tastefully sustained throughout. + +Descending the steep bluff of Grant's Hill, I entered the theatre, which +lies within its shadow. This building was not yet a year old, and +offered one of the neatest-formed interiors possible, calculated to +contain about one thousand persons. It had all the offices and +appointments of such an establishment, well and conveniently arranged; +and in this respect might serve as a model to more important-looking +houses. The ornamental parts of the interior were already disfigured by +the smoke which fills this atmosphere day and night, and fully +exonerates the people from the charge of being wilfully regardless of +neatness and _propreté_ in the arrangement of their dwellings. + +I found the manager, Mr. Wemyss, at his post, and all things in +tolerable order. At night the house was filled; though how the people +made their way home again I do not know: even the short distance I had +to explore on the line of the principal street, I found beset with +perils; loose pavement, scaffold-poles, rubbish, and building materials +of all kinds blocked up the _trottoir_ in several places, which were to +be avoided by instinct, for light here was none, natural or artificial. +At length, after a few stumbles, I was securely housed in a small room, +which I was promised the exclusive use of, and wherein the cheerful +light of the bituminous coal, that blazed like pitch-pine, in my mind +made ample amends for the dust it created, and of this, the amount was +by no means trifling. + +The next day I was joined by Lieutenant I----d, of the cavalry corps +about to advance on an expedition through the prairies, and across the +hunting-grounds of the Nomade tribes, ranging over the still +slightly-explored regions lying between the Mississippi and the Rocky +Mountains. We were ancient comrades of the spur and snaffle, having +harried the low country in company far and wide; and, the morning being +fine, we were quickly mounted for a raid through this new land. + +Crossing the long bridge over the Monongahela, a muddy, turbid-looking +river, we commenced the ascent of Coal Hill, so called from the great +quantities of this material it supplies; along its base lies a range of +busy manufactories, and the roar of the steam-engine resounds on all +sides. Here, too, is a growing town, called Birmingham; but it must +overleap the mountain, or, following the galleries by which the miners +have already penetrated to its centre, become a subterranean city, +before it can hope to rival even a suburb of its gigantic sponsor. + +We had much difficulty in scaling the hill; the track was knee-deep in +heavy mud, and in trying to follow a narrow ledge, by which we +calculated to avoid this impediment for a hundred yards, I----'s horse +made a false step, and fairly rolled down a precipitous descent of some +fifty feet into the road beneath, to the infinite amusement of a group +of miners, who had probably been "guessing" that such a termination to +our scramble was likely: they now swore that a better Racker[11] down +hill they had never seen. I----d had thrown himself adroitly out of his +seat on the upper side of the ledge the very instant of the brute's +slip, and, being unhurt, soon caught the astonished nag, which remained +quietly looking about by the bottom of the precipice, half buried in an +avalanche of shingle and small coal he had loosened in his course. + +Once on the summit of this coal-hill, the plan of the growing city of +manufacture lay displayed as on a chart beneath our feet, together with +a great extent of country, and the course and character of the two fine +rivers which, combined at this spot, take henceforward the name and +style of the Ohio, or River of Beauty. + +The course of the muddy Monongahela is north-west; and, from about +north-east, the clear, lively Alleghany comes bounding into it, +breasting its turbid waters, and bearing their heavy mass back by its +brisk charge close against the western bank, whence, side by side, they +take their downward course, but each preserving its distinctive +character and colour for a considerable distance; divided by a pretty +verdant island, about a couple of miles below their junction, they each +embrace a moiety of it, renewing their churlish fellowship once more +when this obstacle is passed. + +The town stands upon a small alluvial delta, of a triangular form, at +the exact point of union between the rivers,--a spot so lovely, that, as +I looked upon it, much as I respect manufactures, I found myself +involuntarily wishing that fate had reserved it for some less dirty +purpose. As the city grows, it must of necessity climb the steep bluffs +by which it is encompassed; and on these it is not too much to imagine, +at no far period, the squares, terraces, and crescents of a wealthy and +public-spirited community; whilst, within the crowded triangle beneath, +the clang of the noisy steam-engine and the black smoke will lie +drowned, and along the narrow strips of level soil skirting its rivers +will rise the warehouses and wharves of its commerce. + +To the north of the Alleghany you see the little town of that name, with +one or two buildings conspicuous, at this distance, for their size: +this, too, is united to Pittsburg by a bridge of great apparent +lightness and strength. + +From the abutting hill whence we took our first long survey of this +congeries of future cities, we took a western course, following the line +of the Ohio; but holding to the high lands, till coming back, when we +made a _détour_ to the north, and thus got frequent and fine views of +the neighbourhood. + +The country appears generally hilly, with rich glens and valleys lying +between, having numerous streams of clear living water, and presenting +every proof of exhaustless mineral wealth; hence its adoption by the +industrious swarm whose fires darken the sky by night and day. + +The day after this, I----d embarked on board a steamer for Louisville, +on his way to join the head-quarters of his corps, somewhere upon the +Missouri. The Republic allows no sinecure pay to its soldiers: most of +these gallant men pass the best half of their lives upon the frontier, +wasted by sickness, removed far from society or sympathy, poorly paid +and worse thanked, enjoying very little present consideration, and +without hope of future fame. It must require an ardent imagination, and +all the romance with which poetry has invested sword and feather, to +keep an American soldier to his colours in this time of peace; as, on a +sober worldly view, his appears the least enviable condition to be +found in the community. + +I on this day took a solitary ride up the Monongahela, and visited the +scene of Bradock's defeat and death. I found it all snugly fenced in, +and under good cultivation. An intelligent farmer, who was on the spot, +good-naturedly undertook, in answer to an inquiry I made, to act as +_cicerone_. The localities appeared like a book to him: he told where +the French lay _perdu_; pointed out the cover from whence the British +advanced, to be repulsed headlong; where they, according to his legend, +were re-formed, and once more thrust forward, to be again, and finally, +overthrown. + +I understood the minutest details of the whole affair, as well as the +positions occupied by French, English, Indians, and Virginians, before +my good-natured guide appeared quite satisfied; at least, I was forced, +out of consideration for my own time and his patience, to say so much, +and with many thanks to leave him: not, however, until he had urged me +strongly to come home and take tea with his wife, or at least take a +drink with him; one or both of which I pledged myself to do on a future +occasion. + +It was not a little amusing, at this distant day, to observe the ardour +with which my guide canvassed the lost fight, of which he had read, as +he informed me, twenty different accounts. + +"It was a shame," he said, "a right-down sin, and a throwin' away of +men's lives, ever to have put them under Bradock's command," whom he +accused of having "no more military gumption than a goose."--"Why," he +said, "two companies of British grenadiers would have eat every +_crapaud_ on the ground, if they'd bin let to go round and in at one end +o' the ditch, instead of walking right straight up hill agin' the loaded +muzzles of guns they couldn't see, only by the smoke out o' the long +grass." + +Then he would take off his hat, wipe his brow, and fairly knock it +against his knee with vexation at the British defeat. + +"Why, sir," he said, at the same time grasping my thigh, where I sat in +my saddle, with an energy that brought tears into my eyes,--"why, +mister, just do you look up at that little knoll to the right; the place +warn't cleared then, and there was a heap o' dead timber lying +there-bout. Well, sir, Washington sent, out of his own head,--for he +warn't a deal thought on then, you see,--a company of Virginians to try +the trees for it. Well, now just look where they were fixed by that +move, right over the _crapauds_,--every mother's son o' them Virginians +good for a squirrel at fifty yards. I'm d----d if they wouldn't have +used up every human of a Frenchman behind the drain, if it had been left +to a settlement between them, and if the English would only quietly ha' +looked on, and kept Johnny from breaking cover and treeing it." + +"And why the devil didn't they use them up?" I here demanded, to give my +vexed informant time to breathe. + +"I'll tell you why, if you don't know. Why, because that d----d Bradock +was blind as well as deaf, and took the Virginians for inimies; so, not +bein' able to get at Johnny, he slamm'd it right smash into them, and +killed the biggest half on 'em as they were tryin' to run back to their +own side. Sir, it was nothin' better than an eternal murder, and Bradock +ought to have swung for it; but he was shot down, somehow or other, and +died amongst better men, only shootin' was a sight too good for him." + +Taking the statement of my friend for the ground of my opinion, I left +him, at once amused by his enthusiasm and informed by his intelligence. + +I did purpose keeping tryst with my new acquaintance, and having the +battle fought over again, when I might have been able to do some justice +to the force and spirit of his narration; but other routes were to be +visited, and my time was limited to a few days: so we met no more. + +On another day I rode by the United States' Arsenal, a fine building, +inclosing some acres. It is well situated, near the banks of the +Alleghany, about two miles out of the town. This is one of the most +considerable _depôts_ for arms and ordnance stores to be found in the +Western country. + +From this I pursued my way up the river for a mile or two, to where, at +a pretty quiet spot, I observed a boat just leaving the bank for the +north side. I hailed the ferryman, and he returned immediately, when, +adding myself and nag to his freight, he again commenced pulling up the +stream, assisted by a couple of curly-headed urchins, his sons, two out +of twelve, as he laughingly told me; adding, that they were capital +helps. + +We had a couple of market-waggons aboard the flat, each drawn by a pair +of horses. The river, I fancied, was here about as wide as the Thames at +Southwark, running clear and strong; the banks tolerably bold, very +regular, and fringed by a luxuriant growth of various trees and +water-loving shrubs. On the other side I fell on the Pennsylvania canal, +and I for a mile followed the line by which it approaches the town of +Alleghany, till, coming to a rough high hill, I was tempted to try the +ascent, which, after a good deal of ducking and scrambling, I +accomplished. + +The prospect from the summit amply repaid me: at my feet lay the growing +town of Alleghany, which stands on a fine alluvial plain affording ample +space for a city as large as Pekin; with two ports, one on the +Alleghany, the other on the Ohio. I here traced the course of the canal +to the aqueduct on which it crosses the river. Two fine steamers, with +their galleried decks tier over tier, were stemming the current, each +looking like the old wood-cut of Noah's Ark,--houses built upon rafts, +of three stories high, with balconies running round them, the whole +being covered by inclined roofs. Many of the picturesque-looking keels +found here were also working up for the quays; and the waters just +before the busy town presented a strange contrast to the view either up +or down the rivers, where all was tranquil and solitary as when the +light _pirogue_ of the adventurous _voyageur_ first timidly skimmed +along by their rich shores, sending the startled deer to the mountain +and drawing the watchful savage down. + +How to get back was now a consideration without retracing my steps, to +do which I had neither the instinct nor the inclination. I pushed for a +near wood, from which I perceived smoke stealthily curling over the tree +tops; and, after a long threading of the thicket, stumbled upon a little +colony of charcoal-burners, the blackest and the merriest devils I ever +met: they might have been Iroquois, or negroes, from their colour; but +the first reply I got to my hail rendered any inquiry as to country +unnecessary. + +"Hola! my friend," shouted I at the top of my voice, as a tall, +half-naked being stalked out of one of the huts, from which I was +separated by a deep ravine; "pray step this way for one moment." + +The man did as I desired, without a word; a couple of attendant imps +hanging on to the strings of his knees. + +"I'm sorry to trouble you," I added, as he drew within easy +speaking-distance; "but the fact is, I have lost my road, and fear to +lose my dinner." + +"I'faith, thin, sir, if you'll tell me where-abouts you lost the road +I'll find you the dinner, and go and look for the road while you're +atein' it: with the blessing o' God, it will be the first road I seen +since I've bin this side o' Pittsburg, to say the laste." + +"Maybe you've seen a fine aisy-goin' road betune Cork and Cove?" I +replied, in the same accent. + +"Maybe I hav'nt," grinned the pleased charcoal-burner, laughing from ear +to ear. "Och murder! you're the devil, sure! wasn't it the last ten +miles I ever toed of Irish ground? Long life to you, sir! wait till I +call the wife. Molly ashtore, come out av id, for here's a witch of a +gintleman here. Jem, you robber, go and bid your mammy stir herself and +come here." + +Away ran Jem and his brother, or rather flew, for their feathers were +fluttering in the air. I laughed immoderately whilst my countryman, +with the most puzzled air, exclaimed, + +"Och murder! but it's the quarest thing alive. Sure you must have know'd +us?" + +He was now joined by his wife and two or three others of the little +family, who all appeared nearly of an age. Poor Molly, the Mistress, +looked weak and haggard, and told me she "had the shakes on her for the +last six months." She was affected to tears when her husband told her of +my witchcraft, in knowing where they were from, and joined in begging +that "I'd come round and take a bite o' cake and a sup o' spirits and +water, to keep me from feelin' faint till I got to my dinner." + +I requested, however, as my time was short, that one of the little ones +might at once put me on the nearest track by which I would reach the +bridge; and finding I would not accept their hospitality, the father of +the family, attended by Jem, walked along with me to where a bridle-path +led on to a waggon-track, which he desired me to pursue. Here I left my +friendly countryman, and with a "God send you safe home, sir!" he turned +to his own humble dwelling, to think with a full heart of that distant +home my chance visit had recalled in all its freshness, and which, +although he may never look to revisit, no son of poor Ireland ever +forgets. + +A circuitous route led me on to the main road, pursuing which I soon +reached the bridge; but on my way through the street was struck with the +growing air of this place, which I cannot help thinking is one day +destined to be the great city of the river of beauty. + +I entered the smoky Pittsburg, more than ever charmed with the scenery +amidst which it is seated, still beautiful despite the ravages of the +miner and the pollution of steam, smoke, charcoal, and all the other +useful abominations attendant upon the manufacture of iron, glass, +pottery, &c. The wealth and various attractions of this rich heiress of +Nature have proved her undoing. + +The greatest ravage which I had to mourn, because it appeared carried to +a wanton and heedless extent, was the havoc everywhere making with +barbarous and indiscriminate zeal amongst the neighbouring timber. I +looked about upon the nearest hills, many of which are already bare, +denuded of every shrub; and sorrowed to think that even such others as +yet rejoiced in their rich forest garb were but enjoying a brief +respite from the axe and flame, being assuredly condemned and marked for +destruction. + +Every man here, in fact, is at work "for his own hand;" and as each +proprietor is desirous to make the most he can of his acres, these burn +and destroy on all sides, never feeling satisfied that their land is +cleared whilst a single tree lives to tell where once the forest waved. + +In noticing the well-fenced fields, the comfortable dwellings, +substantial offices, and generally excellent condition of these farms, +one can hardly credit the history of the settlement of this Western +country, when it is considered that, amongst these well-cleared and +well-cultivated fields, within the memory of living men, the Indian +ranged and the uncouth buffalo herded, and that the first "white-man" +born west of the Alleghany is still living: by the way, a whimsical +anecdote relating to this gentleman is current in Pittsburg, and which I +here relate as I myself received it. + +At a public dinner, Mr. R----, the person alluded to, being present, had +his health proposed and cordially drunk, as "the first white man born +west of the Alleghany." Now Mr. R---- happening to be very +dark-complexioned, a waggish countryman of mine, who was seated next to +him, could not help adding, with a sly air, having repeated the toast, +"and not particularly white either." + +"Why that's very true," returned the subject of this jest, with much +good-humour; "and the reason assigned for the exceeding redness of my +skin is in itself not a little illustrative of the late condition of our +country, which is, in fact, the true subject of this toast. + +"Shortly after my father had located his family on the Ohio, my mother +was, whilst in the act of fetching water from the stream a little way +outside the stockade within which our dwelling stood, startled by the +near whoop of an Indian warrior, and, on raising her head, perceived +close beside her a chief of the neighbouring tribe; she instantly fled +like a deer; and, being young and active, gained the shelter of the +stockade, within which, however, she fell exhausted, but was so +preserved. Some time after I was ushered into life; and the darkness of +my complexion was always referred to the chance of my mother having been +thus frightened and followed by the young Indian." + +"And a mighty natural mode of accounting for the same," replied Pat; +adding with a most provoking air of simplicity, "but may I ask did you +ever hear your poor mother say whether the Indian overtook her or not?" + +The last night I acted here was made memorable by the jovial condition +of a couple of the leading members of the corps dramatic, and as it +chanced, diplomatic. The play was "The Irish Ambassador," and the first +news I had of my principal colleague, his Excellency the representative +of his most Catholic Majesty, was, that he had arrived, but in a state +unfit for our purposed conference, having been rendered utterly +incapable by an imprudent application of gin cock-tail, prescribed, as +his Excellency himself assured me with tears in his eyes, as a sovereign +remedy for a disorganized state of nerves, to which he was unhappily +subject. + +An excuse was made for the unavoidable absence of the Spanish minister, +on the score of ill-health; and the indulgence of the meeting requested +for one of the _attachés_, who had boldly undertaken to read the absent +diplomatist's instructions at first sight. This point got over, we +proceeded smoothly, as might be expected, until the period when his +Highness the Grand-duke was required in person, when it became evident +that, through sympathy or some cause less sentimental, the Prince too +was royally rocky: availing himself of his rank however, he made shift +to reach a chair, and, aided by the support it afforded, maintained his +place at the conference. + +Nothing could exceed the charitable forbearance with which this +republican assemblage looked upon the fallen condition of royalty: +whether they judged that it was no way out of character for a German +sovereign and the possessor of a hock-cellar to be fuddled, or whether +they considered that this was no bad specimen of royalty to exhibit to +their children's contempt, I know not; but, happily, the signs of their +displeasure fell lightly on his Highness, and our negotiation was at +length, though lamely, brought to a conclusion. + +On Tuesday the 8th of April, at eight o'clock P.M. I once more took my +place in the Good Intent, to re-cross the Alleghanies; when, turning our +backs upon the River of Beauty, we slowly traversed the dark streets of +its sooty neighbour; for, strange to tell, although the material for gas +lies at their doors in exhaustless abundance, and although they use a +great quantity of coal-coke for manufacturing purposes, the streets +remain as dark as the extremity of their deepest mine on a holiday. + +This too, I found upon inquiry, was by the good citizens laid to the +account of the "removal of the deposits." "It is enough," they say, "for +one side to originate a question, however obviously excellent and +desirable, to have the antagonist party oppose it, and make the measure +a new watchword to try battle on." + +I was informed of one spirited individual having offered to light the +place with gas on his own risk, but, as a matter of course, he was +immediately opposed by both parties; and so matters will rest, until the +good people, wearied of being kept in the dark, open the eyes of their +divided corporation; and in those days will the Pittsburgians cease to +walk in darkness, and become what, considering the quantity of coal they +possess, they are well entitled to be,--a gas-enlightened community. + +It was raining when we departed, and continued to rain all night, as we +weltered through the mud. Next morning, although a shower yet fell, I +became so weary of the close confinement of the stage, that I alighted +at the foot of Laurel Hill, and, putting stoutly forth, pushed on ahead +of the heavy vehicle. The road winds about the steep side of the +mountain, and from several points affords grand views of the forest, +valleys, and humbler hills below. The early shrubs were already putting +forth abundant leaf and blossom, for the winter had been singularly +mild, and the quiet air was impregnated with sweetness. + +When very near the top of the mountain,--for the ascent is full four +miles,--I encountered one of those groups which appear in constant +progress along the great Western line. The extent, however, of the +present caravan made it peculiarly interesting. It consisted of five +long, well-covered waggons, each drawn by eight or six horses, was +attended by three or four led nags, and a number of dogs of various +denominations. The occupants of the waggons were women and children: the +faces of the chubby rogues were all crowded in front to look upon the +passing stranger, with here and there a shining ebony phiz thrust +between; the chief freight appeared to consist of household furniture +and agricultural implements. + +By the side of these waggons first rode four or five horsemen, well +mounted, who might be the principals of the party, for they were men +past the meridian of life; straggling in the rear, or scattered along +the edges of the forest, walked eight or nine younger men, +rough-and-ready-looking fellows, each with his rifle in his hand. Wild +pigeons abounded along the cover-edge, and the sharp crack which every +now and then rang through the thin air of morning told that the hunters +were dealing upon them. + +From the construction of the waggons, as well as because their owners +evinced no inclination either to hold communion or exchange civilities +with a passing wayfarer, which no Southern ever fails to do, I concluded +this to be a party of New England men, who, abandoning their worn-out +native fields, were pushing on for the "far West" with the lightness of +heart consequent on the surety of reaping a brave harvest from a soil +which withholds abundance from none who possess hearts and arms to task +it. + +With what apparent indifference, if not positive pleasure, do the people +of this country quit their ancient homes, and wander forth in search of +new ones, to be again, in turn, deserted, if not by themselves, by their +restless and enterprising children! The Tartar habit of movement and +frequent change, which is, I fancy, natural to man, finds in no country +at the present age such inviting facilities as are offered in this, nor +could a people be found who more fully enjoy them. + +I looked upon this well-ordered, sober party with much pleasure; and as +I stood upon the mountain top, and thence watched their downward track, +I found my mind actively employed picturing their after progress and +accompanying the line of their long travel. First, came their repose and +rest, as in their plentifully-furnished flat they slowly drifted down +the smooth course of the near Ohio; then, their after-journeying through +the wilderness in search of a pleasant spot on which to rear their huts +and make to themselves a home; now followed their early and +long-enduring toil, accompanied perhaps by the sickness of their +children and the pining of their women, whose sensibilities, more acute +than those of men, ever revert in seasons of sadness to the far-off +places their young days made pleasant; and, lastly, when, after years +had passed away, and that their well-fenced fields were teeming with a +plenteous harvest, I beheld their sons gathering together their +inheritance and setting forth in search of another new country, within +which they might resume the toil of their fathers. Man may change the +scene of his labour, but the evil of his condition is not to be evaded; +and alike, from the most fertile as from the most barren soil, by the +sweat of his brow must his bread be won. + +I here waited, sheltered by a rocky projection, until the stage came up. +The continuance of the rain effectually prevented me from indulging in +any more walks this day; the tedium of the journey however, whilst light +lasted, was greatly relieved by the constant changes of mountain +scenery, as viewed through an atmosphere now wildly clear and again +thick and gloomy. + +I found considerable amusement also in calculating the fair odds against +our being pitched into some one of the many deep ravines along whose +edge we were, when going down hill, whirled with startling speed. It was +at these descents that the driver sought to pull up his lost time; and +this he did with a recklessness of consequences that led me, after +mature consideration, aided by the experience of much rough travel, to +come to the following conclusion,--that, in crossing the Alleghany +mountains, when the roads are rotten and slippery, the chances for and +against a broken neck are so nearly equal that no sporting man, of any +liberality, need desire to seek odds, should he feel inclined to make a +bet before commencing the journey. + +We at times encountered a string of waggons at some narrow sharp turn of +the corkscrew path, and were whirled by them, with our off-wheels +curiously circling the unguarded ledge of a precipice some four or five +hundred feet deep, where a wheel-horse suddenly jibbing, or a leader +shying or falling, would, in all human probability, have provided the +wolves and bears with a banquet, and the journalists with a neat +paragraph, headed, "Melancholy result of fast driving, attended with +serious loss of valuable lives." + +The practice is for the team to be put on a run the moment they gain the +summit of a hill; and, if all things hold out, this is kept up until the +bottom be reached: the horses are excellent, and rarely fail. On my +asking the coachman,--by whom I rode as much as possible,--what he did +in the event of a wheel-horse coming down in a steep pass, he replied, +"Why, I keep driving ahead, and drag him along;"--an accident which he +assured me had occurred more than once to himself when the roads were +encrusted with ice and snow: the passengers at such times are placed in +sleighs, which are perhaps less dangerous. + +On the morning of Thursday we once more arrived at the frontier town of +the low-lands of Pennsylvania,--Chambersburg; and here I quitted the +"Good Intent" line, transferring myself, servant, and kit to the +Baltimore stage; and at three o'clock A.M. on Friday, I was set down, +cold and weary and wet, at the door of Barnum's hotel. A few thundering +knocks brought down the porter, and I was admitted within shelter of the +well-warmed hall, with + +"Och murther alive! Mr. Power, is it yerself, sir? Why, thin, you're +welcome!" + +And in five minutes after, I was in a comfortable chamber, and a blazing +fire of wood rising under the inspection of my Irish porter. Anxious to +conclude my journey, I desired him to rouse me in time for the eight +o'clock stage to Washington, though, Heaven knows, I could have slept +for twelve hours at the least; and so tumbled into bed whilst the man +was yet regretting the "mighty haste" I was in. + +By nine A.M. I was once more rolling off the pavement of the monumental +city. But what a change was I experiencing! The sun shone cheerily, as +though rejoicing in his conquest over the cold mass which had so long +imprisoned him, and all around appeared to hail his presence with +gladness: the wind was light and mild, the road, which I had seen two +months before all but impassable, was now, by comparison, excellent, and +the surrounding country, then so bleak and bare, was now rejoicing in +the beauty of early spring. My fatigue was all forgotten, and I enjoyed +my present ride as though I had not before known what a bone-breaking +jolt was. + +At two o'clock P.M. Washington once more lay beneath me, with the broad +Potomac beyond, looking like a currentless transparent lake, clipped +about by finely wooded irregular heights, and navigated by faëry barks. +Such was the aspect this noble river presented, and just such the little +fleet of fishing-boats scattered over its bosom, busied in pursuit of +the shad and the herring, now coming into season. + +To my great joy, I found my excellent friend, Captain B----n, was still +resident at Fuller's: my old rooms had that day been vacated for me, a +few hours beheld me comfortably installed, and the rough-work of the +past trip across the backbone of the continent only served to enhance +my present enjoyments. + +The Impressions left by my present residence I have already given in an +embodied form to the reader. I shall therefore beg him to accompany me +back to Philadelphia, and thence _viâ_ Princeton to New York. + +_May 26th._--A lovely morning: landed from the Delaware steamer at +Bordenton, and rode thence to Princeton on horseback, sixteen miles; +passing two royal residences by the way, first, that of Joseph +Buonaparte, and next a queer-looking, low, quadrangular building, +inhabited by one of the sons of Joachim Murat, ex-king of Naples. On +reaching the hospitable house to which I was bound at Princeton, I +encountered the prince, paying a visit to my friend Mr. T----n. He is a +tall, robust-looking personage, very fat, and fond of race-horses; but +has not, as I learn, been over-lucky on the turf. + +One can never meet and contemplate any of these far-flung fragments of +Napoleon's mighty empire without reverting with renewed interest to the +founder of so much unlooked-for though brief greatness. Sheltered +beneath his Titan ægis these new-made monarchs flourished, and ruffled +it with the best of Europe's princes; until, grown vain of their fancied +power, they deserted their shield and shelter, leaving it to abide +unsustained the assault of an outraged world, and, whilst, forgetful of +their origin, seeking to stand alone, were shattered into atoms by its +fall! + +What a capricious climate is this! On Tuesday the 27th of May, I rode +from Princeton to Brunswick, on a day as sultry as a July afternoon ever +is in England; the heavy showers of the 25th had so saturated the sandy +soil that no particle of dust could float, and the verdure of wood and +valley was bright and refreshing to look upon. Yet here we are in New +York, on the 28th, with large fires burning within, a north-east wind +blowing without, attended by alternate sleet and showers, with fog and +every other atmospheric misery most grievous to humanity. This sample of +"the spring-time of the year" continued tolerably regular until + +_June 6th._--This day the sun is fairly on duty again. Rode to the +course on Long Island, the third day of the present meeting, to witness +a race which had called up North and South to arms. Trifle--a little +mare of Colonel Johnson's, the Nestor of the American turf--had come on +from Virginia to be entered against Shark, the property of Captain +Robert Stockton, about to run his first four-mile race, a horse much was +expected from. Alice Grey, the mare which I had seen beaten easily by +Trifle at the fall meeting, was the only other entry expected to be made +good; so that the thing was considered as a match between the two horses +first named. For the only time I saw ladies present in considerable +numbers, and was sorry that the gallantry of my sporting friends had not +provided them with a more becoming stand. + +All was tiptoe expectation; but the anticipated sport fell through, +owing to the ill condition of Shark. He was, from some cause or other, +as completely out of order as an animal could well be, and ought +properly to have been drawn. His spirited owner was, however, absent in +Europe, and the friends who acted for him decided that he should do his +best. Two heats, run in very indifferent time, decided the affair; and +the little pet of the Southerners was once more hailed _victrix_. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[11] Racking is a sort of shuffling gait, easy, I believe, to both horse +and rider, when both are broken to it, and much followed throughout the +West. + + + + +THE HUDSON. + + +With expectations highly raised, and for a long time cultivated and +encouraged by an eager inspection of all the prints I could collect, and +a perusal of glowing descriptions in both prose and poetry, did I at +length wake on the morning which was to introduce me to the beauties of +this vaunted river. + +My first act was to rush to my window, and throw open shutter and sash. +It was six o'clock, the sun was up, and the sky cloudless; thanking my +lucky star, which had prevailed to my wish, I hurried through my toilet, +and away to the foot of Courtland-street, from whose wharf the steamboat +Champion was advertised to start at seven A.M. Punctual to the hour, we +slipped our moorings, and in a minute were gallantly heading up the +Hudson, breasting its current at the rate of fifteen miles per hour. + +Hoboken and its Elysian fields were passed like lightning. Casting one +backward glance, I perceived Jersey city floating indistinctly in the +golden haze of morning; whilst the yet more distant heights of Long and +Staten Islands, with the dividing Narrows, showed like two dusky clouds +with a pathway of silver drawn between. + +I was first struck by a near view of that singular range of cliff, the +Palisadoes, so named from the face of the rock bearing a resemblance to +a gigantic stockade rising from the bank of the river, along whose +southern side it is continued for a considerable distance. Lee's Fort is +pointed out; the Tappan Zee is next entered, upon whose border lies the +scene of poor André's capture; and farther on is the point from which +the traitor Arnold made his timely flight. + +All these, with other memorable sites, are in turn pointed out, glanced +at, and rapidly left behind. But I am free to confess historical +associations were lost upon me; they awakened no sympathy in my mind; it +was absorbed, filled, bewildered, in the admiration which each +rapidly-opening point awakened, for never before this fair morning had +such a succession of matchless river views passed before my delighted +eyes. + +"Write down your first impressions of scenery when fairly viewed, and +your descriptions will at least have correctness to recommend them." +Somebody, I know, says something very like this; and I have hitherto +quoted it as an axiom: but alas! what rule, however sage, but meets +exceptions; for what man endowed with any ordinary share of devotion to +Nature, and admiration of her handiwork, dare venture to set down his +first impressions of this enchanting Hudson whilst the overwhelming +influence it creates is yet dazzling his imagination! I say +overwhelming, because such, in sober truth, was its first effect on me. + +I was at times unable to venture the expression of all I felt even to +myself: I sought to avoid the intelligent friends who accompanied me, +and am not ashamed to add, that, albeit "unused to the melting mood," I +here was affected almost to weakness. There might, perhaps, have been +chords awakened that helped this fancy; but in no mood could an +enthusiast of Nature, I think, feel otherwise than "rapt" when free for +the first time to view, on such a day, such glorious magic pass before +his sight; for, in our rapid flight, I could compare the effect of all I +saw to glamour only. + +The grape-covered steeps of the old Rhine, the mountain-enshrined lochs +of our Hielans, with their clear blue waters, and the sweet valleys in +which the little lakes of Killarney are set like gems,--all are lovely, +and all of these appear to me to have contributed models for this +masterpiece, each to be equalled, if not surpassed. + +But I must check my pen, since disjointed eulogium will do little +towards satisfying the curious or silencing the sceptical; and for +description in reasonable detail, worthy the subject, only one hand in +our age has existed endowed by nature to grapple with such a task, and +that wizard hand lies mouldering now beneath the ruins of Dryburg Abbey! + +Above West Point and the pass of the highlands the river expands +grandly, forming the Bay of Newburg. The town of this name lies prettily +spread along the face of a gently rising hill; and in a meadow at the +foot of the town stands a venerable-looking stone-built house, rendered +memorable from having been the residence of Washington when at this +place; which, bordering upon his stronghold, the highlands, was often +his head-quarters. + +On the opposite side of the river, deep within the bight of the bay, +lies the stirring town of Fish-kill, occupied by a colony originally +from the island of Nantucket, who carry on from this place their +adventurous trade of whale-fishing; and appear, indeed, to have roused +their neighbours of Newburg and Hudson to imitate their enterprise; many +ships, the joint property of the most spirited of the community, being +now yearly fitted out in these places, and sent to hunt the sperm-whale +about the world. + +Above this bay the river again narrows, and the scenery upon its banks +assumes a softer character: spacious meadows with well-cultivated lands +stretch widely to the distant wooded heights; the bold outline of the +highlands is drawn about the rear; and in front the loftier Catskills +push their rugged peaks amongst the clouds. + +From Poughkeepsie, numerous country seats occupy the now park-like banks +of the river to the north, which, although lying from eighty to one +hundred miles distant from New York, may be yet considered reasonably +near; for six or seven hours brings the boat up, and in the course of +the day there do not pass fewer than five or six. On this morning I met +on board the Champion Messrs. W----'s and L----e, on their way to the +summer abode of their families: they were landed at Hyde Park, ninety +miles distant from New York, before one o'clock. + +By half past five we were laid alongside the wharf of Albany, having +steamed one hundred and sixty miles in ten hours and a half, including +many stoppages of perhaps a couple of minutes each; and nothing can be +more readily executed than one of these pulls-up, with the discharge or +reception of luggage or passengers. + + + + +ALBANY. + + +This is the capital of the powerful state of New York, and promises at +no very distant period to wear an aspect worthy its rank. No situation +was ever chosen better adapted to display; for the town is built over +the face of a lofty and steep hill, which only affords space for one or +two streets about its foot, and this is chiefly occupied by docks and +the several canal basins connected with the Hudson. + +The principal avenue, a regularly built, grandly proportioned street, +with a railway running through its centre, climbs directly up the hill, +and is terminated by a well-kept public square, or _Grande Place_, as +the French would call it, about which the State House, City Hall, and +other public buildings are ranged. These striking objects, from the +nature of the ground, stand boldly out, and have all an appearance +sufficiently imposing; whilst here are some buildings that possess +strong claims to architectural beauty. + +Nearly all the more important public offices have lofty and +well-proportioned domes; and these being uniformly covered with tin or +other bright metal, impart a gay and picturesque effect to the general +mass; and, indeed, the city, viewed from a little distance, with all +these cupolas and towering domes reflected in the setting sun, assumes +quite an Oriental appearance: one is immediately reminded of the mosque +and minaret of some Turkish capital: the fine marble too used in the +construction of all public buildings, and indeed of many private ones, +increases the effect which they derive from their style and from the +bold eminence they occupy. + +Albany was long almost exclusively Dutch, and may be said up to this +time to have hardly kept pace with the rapid advance of the country +generally: it must have marvelled at the spread of the numerous +flourishing towns which have grown up around within a few years, and +which threatened to eclipse, if not extinguish it wholly. A movement, +however, has of late taken place: the inhabitants have awoke, new +colonists have superseded the family from Sleepy-hollow, or imparted to +them a share of their energy; and Albany begins to assert her claims on +the productive country by which she is backed, and to turn into her own +channel a portion of its commerce. Building is everywhere going forward; +land has doubled and trebled in value; improvements are in steady +progress; and, should the present prosperous course of things meet with +no untoward check to paralyse the industry of the people, Albany will in +a few years assume an importance more profitable to its citizens than +the empty honour it derives from being styled the capital of the State. + +There are several excellent inns here: one kept by an Englishman, a Mr. +Thomas, in which I dined once or twice with friends, and which bears a +high reputation; another, wherein I always resided on my several visits +here, kept by Mr. Crutenden; and if henceforward any stranger who +relishes good fare, loves Shakspeare, and would choose to make the +acquaintance of a Transatlantic Falstaff, passes through Albany without +calling at the Eagle, and cracking a bottle with "mine host," he will +have missed one of those days he would not have failed to mark with a +white stone. + +Soberly, I do not remember ever to have met with a face and figure +which, were I a painter, I would so readily adopt for a _beau-idéal_ of +the profligate son of mirth and mischief as those of mine host o' th' +Eagle. He has a fellow feeling too with "lean Jack," is as well read in +Shakspeare as most good men, quotes him fluently and happily, honours +and loves him as he should be loved and honoured, and in himself +possesses much of the humour, much of the native wit, but not a single +trait of the less admirable portions of the fat knight's character. + +Indebted to Mr. Crutenden for many pleasant hours, I will offer no +excuse for making this indifferent sketch of him here, since it in no +way trenches upon the rule I hold sacred of eschewing comment on private +persons, or details of social intercourse, where indeed, men speak +oftener from the heart than from the head. Mr. C. I look upon as a +public character, and thus I am enabled to say how much I esteem him. +Should he be wroth, I vow, if I ever should visit Albany again, never to +make one at the "Feast of Shells." On the contrary, I'll fly the Eagle; +forswear "the villanous company" of mine host; I'll disclaim him, +renounce him, "and d--n me if ever I call him Jack again." + +The theatre here is a handsome building, and well adapted to the +purpose for which it was designed; but is, I believe, worse supported +than any other on this continent. I had been advised not to visit the +city professionally; but being strongly solicited by the worthy manager, +"mischief lay in my way, and I found it." + +I feel compelled in honesty to state the facts of this trip, though no +way flattering to my powers of attraction: however, if there be anything +unpleasant to relate, I ever find it better to tell of oneself, than +leave it to the charity of good-natured friends. The only disagreement I +ever had with an audience, in fact, occurred here, and roundly, thus it +happened. + +On the evening when I was advertised to make my _début_ to an Albany +audience, I at my usual hour walked to the house, dressed, and was +ready; but when, half an hour after the time of beginning, I went on to +the stage, there were not ten persons in the house. The stage-director +and myself now held a consultation on the unpromising aspect of our +affairs. He ascribed the unusually deserted condition of the _salle_ to +the sultry and threatening state of the atmosphere, which had deterred +the neighbouring towns of Troy and Waterford from furnishing their +quota,--those indeed being his chief dependencies. I was opposed, on +policy, to throwing away our ammunition so unprofitably; and so after +due deliberation, the manager agreed to state to the few persons in +front, that "with their permission" the performances intended for this +night would be postponed until the evening after the next following; as, +in consequence of the exceeding smallness of the audience, it was to be +feared the play would prove dull to them, as it must be irksome to the +actors. + +Nothing could be received with better feeling on the part of the persons +assembled; not a breath of disapprobation was heard. They instantly went +away; but soon after I reached home, I found, by the report of one or +two gentlemen who had since been at the theatre seeking admittance, that +a considerable excitement prevailed, and that at the public bars of the +neighbourhood the affair was detailed in a way likely to produce +unpleasant effects on my first appearance. + +The appointed night came, the house was filled with men, and everything +foreboded a violent outbreak; the manager appeared terrified out of his +wits; but, as far as I can judge, behaved with infinite honesty; +disavowed the truth of the imputations connected with the dismissal, +and which it was sought to fasten upon me; and affirmed that he was +fully prepared to place the facts simply before the audience, in the +event of my suffering any interruption. + +It was now found that an actor or two needed in the piece were absent. +These worthies, the chief agitators in this affair, were, in fact, in +front of the house to assist in the expected assault upon a stranger and +one of their own profession. On this being explained to the manager, he +said he was aware of it, and had threatened to discharge the +individuals; but relying upon the affair terminating in my discomfiture, +they did not fear being sustained by the same intelligence which they +now directed against me. + +On my appearance the din was mighty deafening; the volunteer champions +of the public had come well prepared, and every invention for making the +voice of humanity bestial was present and in full use. The boxes I +observed to be occupied by well-dressed men, who generally either +remained neutral, or by signs sought that I should be heard. This, +however, was out of the question; and after long and patient abiding, +"for patience is the badge of all our tribe," I made my bow and +retired, when the manager, who had on the night in question dismissed +the house, made his bow, and, after silence was obtained, begged that +the audience would give me a hearing, assuring them on his own knowledge +that I had not contemplated insulting them. + +I again came forward, and after some time was permitted to say that I +could in no way account for a simple matter of business being so +misrepresented as to occasion this violent exhibition of their anger; +that, before the audience in question was dismissed, its permission had +been obtained; that, had I really contemplated insult, it is hardly +probable I should wait two days to encounter the anger of those I had +sought to offend. I farther said, that on the common principle which +they professed, I was entitled to a hearing, since the sense of the +majority was evidently with me; and that, if the disorder continued, I +should, for the sake of that respectable majority, sincerely regret +this, since the character of their city for justice and hospitality +would be more impeached than my prospects be injured. + +After this the row was resumed with added fierceness: not a word of +either play or farce was heard; but I persisted in going through with +the performance, being determined not to dismiss a second time. + +At the fall of the curtain I begged the manager would not again announce +me; as although, for the sake of the many who I could see were opposed +to this misjudged outrage, I had gone through the business once, I could +not again subject them to the annoyance of such a collision, or myself +to continued insult. + +I was, however, happily induced to change this determination at the +request of many gentlemen of the place, who assured me that the whole +thing arose from stories most industriously circulated by one or two +ill-conditioned actors, backed by inflammatory handbills and a +scurrilous print. + +Out of this affair, which threatened me serious annoyance, I really +gathered a new proof of the kindness of the people of this country, for +I found persons on all sides interesting themselves for me, although I +entered the place without an acquaintance; and, had I not stood in need +of help, so in all probability should I have quitted it: but in this +hour of annoyance, men not of theatrical habits put themselves actively +forward to shield a calumniated stranger from insult or injury; in +consequence of this interposition, on my next appearance, nothing could +be more orderly than the conduct of the audience. + +I concluded my engagement, which was only for four nights, and left the +theatre with a promise to return, which pledge, at some inconvenience, I +redeemed; and I have never been able to regret a momentary vexation +which obtained for me many friends, and made known to me the sterling +good feeling existing in Albany, of which I might otherwise have +remained ignorant. + +The rides about Albany are numerous, the roads the best in the country; +and the little city of Troy, with its Mount Ida, worthy even the +celestial visitants who honoured its less beautiful predecessor with +their presence. Higher up lies Waterford, a thriving place, also +charmingly situated; and, near this, the Fall of the Cohoos, one of the +finest natural objects in the country. Indeed, a morning's ride in this +direction offers a succession of views that can nowhere be surpassed, +and which I do not remember to have often seen equalled. + +Approaching Albany from the west, and looking across the Hudson over +the finely-wooded slopes and verdant meadows on which it fronts, it +appears a city bordered by an ornamental park; to the south tower the +cloud-capped Catskills; on the north are the blue mountains of Vermont; +and about the verge of the landscape on all sides runs a line of boldly +undulating hills, whose rugged outline forms no inappropriate framing to +this very beautiful picture. + +It had been my intention from Albany to proceed directly for Niagara, +and thence returning to Buffalo, join a steam-boat, which was advertised +to make the tour of the great lakes, Superior and Erie, touching at +Detroit and one or two other points of interest, then after visiting the +new entrepôt for the territory of Michigan, Chicago, was to return with +her passengers to Buffalo; the trip being one of pastime, and calculated +to occupy about twenty days. + +This plan was, however, frustrated, through an application being made +from the Polish committee of Philadelphia that I should act a night for +the benefit of the fund raised for these exiles for liberty: back, +therefore, I hurried to Philadelphia; arrived in the morning, acted at +night, with the thermometer at ninety-seven, and was off again for New +York by the mail-boat next day. + +I was anxious to get away west, to make the most of my holidays, and, +being Sunday, this mail was the only public conveyance permitted through +the State of Jersey. I however caution all thin-skinned travellers +against using it any time between the first day of June and the last of +October; for to run the gauntlet at night through the legions of +musquitoes quartered between the Delaware and the Raritan is no laughing +matter, as I found to my cost. + +The worst of this journey was, that, on arriving by the railroad car at +Amboy, which we did at midnight, we were compelled to wait unhoused here +until three or four in the morning, the steamer not departing until that +hour for New York. The example those insatiable vermin made of me with +four hours' leisure in which to work their wicked will, I even now sweat +to think on; one of my eyes was hermetically sealed up, and my upper lip +would have matched that of any Guinea negro, whilst my hands were so +swollen that I could not close them without pain and difficulty: in +short, as Roque says, there was not "a sounder-bitten bully in all +Andalusia." + +Halting for one day at New York, I proceeded by the morning boat to +West-point with the intention of resting here a few days: but not having +taken the precaution of writing on to secure a chamber, I was +indifferently provided for; this charming spot only possessing one +hotel, which is a concession made by government to the public, as it is +properly only a military post, and the seat of the national Military +College. + +Much has been said and sung, well and ill, of the beauty of the place, +but certainly not one word too much, for language can hardly convey any +just notion of the variety of attributes Nature has laid under +contribution, and here combined, for the embellishment of this most +perfect spot. + +In the cool hour of twilight I strolled a little way up the western +hill, and thence looked back upon the hotel and the lines of tents +beyond, for at this season the cadets were in camp; excepting the hum of +myriads of busy insects, not a sound was to be heard; the fire-fly was +filling the lower grounds with his dazzling light, and seemed the only +thing that lived or moved there; when suddenly the sharp roll of a drum, +followed by a bugle-call, broke in on this tranquillity, and +disenchanted the scene which I had just decided must have been designed +by Nature as a temple to Solitude. + +The next morning I quitted West-point, and in the afternoon landed once +again in Albany, where I took a couple of days' repose, and employed +myself in making inquiries and settling my route to Niagara, the idea of +visiting which wonder became all-absorbing; the long cherished desire +was about to be gratified, the dream of years to be realized. All +obstacles of business being removed, I grew restless and impatient of +further delay; I had, however, pledged myself to make a visit by the +way, and was only waiting for a couple of friends who were to be my +travelling companions. + + + + +JOURNEY TO COOPER'S TOWN. + + +OTSEGO LAKE. + + +At three o'clock A.M. on a cloudy and somewhat chilly morning, left the +door of the Eagle in a very comfortable extra coach, which was chartered +to convey a freight of four persons to the mansion of Mr. C----e, lying +upon Otsego Lake, distant from Albany some sixty miles. + +My companions were Mr. H----e, whom I had with me at starting, and Mr. +I. V. B----n, for whom we had agreed to halt at his hotel on the top of +the State House hill, and a long halt we had of it; for, having no great +confidence in our punctuality, he had very wisely, as far as his own +comfort was concerned, left orders to be called whenever we should +appear: and not a moment earlier was he in the least danger of being +roused, for we had to awaken one of the Irish waiters before he could be +come at; a task of no small difficulty. After some half-hour's delay at +the top of the hill, we set forward. + +_Mem._--In future, always arrange on all early expeditions to have my +quarters beat up last. + +Although the morning broke gloomily, the sun rose brave and bright, and +managed throughout the day to keep the field against both wind and +cloud, that sought to overcast him. For the most part, this line of +country is very tame, and offers little to compensate for the bad road +leading through it. The amusement, therefore, which a series of fine +landscapes affords the traveller not being found here, we had to draw +upon our own personal resources to banish weariness; happily these were +not wanting: the youngest of my friends was the son of a leading Whig, +or Oppositionist, and newly inoculated with the right degree of +political fervour becoming the time and his age; the senior was a Tory, +or of the Government party, possessed of much natural humour, and having +a thorough knowledge of the people. + +Previous to starting, the young politician was bold in his assertion +that in Schoharie county,--that through which our route lay,--the Whig +interest was in the ascendant; this assertion his better instructed +opponent as stoutly contradicted, insisting on the contrary, that +Jacksonism was the political creed cherished as orthodox amongst the +country people. + +The mode of coming at the true state of the parties was simple enough; +we had only, whilst halting to change horses or bait, to touch upon the +absorbing topic of the day, and the village loungers, landlord, +bar-keeper, and guests, might have been placed upon a canvassing roll +without a chance of error, so decidedly did they make "their love +known." + +I soon discovered that the "ould Gineral" had a hollow thing of it on +this line of march, as, indeed, I have uniformly observed to be the case +in all the agricultural districts; and although it may be argued that +the confidence of these sons of the soil may neither be wisely nor well +placed, it must, I conceive, be on all hands admitted that it is at +least the result of honest conviction; for, if a stranger may be +permitted to judge, I should say, a more virtuous and right-meaning +class does not exist than the agriculturists generally of these States; +indeed it appears clear to me that it is to this great body of truly +independent electors the political seer must turn when he would desire +fairly to calculate the probable changes likely to be worked out in this +vast region. They are the owners of the land which their votes govern; +they are invulnerable to the anarchist and the mad agrarian; they are +observant and intelligent; and although liable, as are all men, to be +for a time hoodwinked, or led astray, by interested brawlers, only let +the veil be once lifted, and a glimpse afforded which shall inform them +that their property or the country's freedom are endangered, and they +will be found a rampart behind which all true patriots, the lovers of +order and country, may rally, and which they may hold impregnable +against the furious assault of the leveller, or the insidious sap of the +disguised despot. + +But enough of this: _chacun à son métier_; yet here I am betrayed into a +homily where I only contemplated a jest. The truth is, my allusion to +this topic at all arose from the vivid recollection I still have of the +great fun I derived from this canvassing of my companions in support of +their opinions previously expressed. + +At each new stopping-place, my Whig friend would jump out with eager +anticipations that here his majority would be made too palpable for +denial; after him would quickly stride his long-legged, long-headed +rival; and in a moment both were hard at it with the inmates of the +house. + +At places where a weak minority gave signs of hardihood, I usually +adopted their side in argument; and, as I was fully _au fait_ to all the +slang of party at least, it became my business in promotion of fun, to +fan the flame, which in one instance had nearly ended in getting myself +and my allies turned out of an honest Jacksonian's house, who swore no +such libellous Whigs should drink at his bar. In fact, my ears being +kept on strict duty during our noisy debates, in order to determine the +exact moment for prudently backing out, I, in this case, concluded it +wise to anticipate the expulsion which was decreed by a large majority, +having caught certain ominous disjointed words, which, by the aid of a +copulative conjunction or two, would have read, "Take 'em down and duck +them in the river." + +About two o'clock we reached the neat little village called Cherry +Valley, and, in a couple of hours after, entered upon the well-kept +domain of Mr. C----e. The view of the lake and mansion, as it is +approached from the main road, is exceedingly good; and, when the +spirited proprietor's tasteful designs shall be completed, will have no +equal in this country. + +Our reception at Hyde-hall was as hospitable as heart could wish. It was +the birthday of our host's son; and we found a large party assembled, +amongst whom were three or four remarkably handsome women. + +Otsego, or, as it is commonly called, Cooper's-Town Lake, has been best +described by the novelist of that name, in, I think, his admirable +American book, "The Last of the Mohicans." He looked upon it with the +eye of a poet and the love of a son; for he was born and passed his +boyhood upon its banks, and in the pretty town reflected in its clear +water the name of his father is perpetuated. The son has founded his +name upon a yet surer basis: towns may fall as they have risen, and +their founders be forgotten; but the pleasure we derive from genius +enshrines its possessor within our hearts, and transmits his name to be +a household word amongst our children. Ages may pass away, and empires +may flourish and may fade, but the hand of a Cicero will ever be found +to pluck the weeds from the tomb of an Archimedes! + +This mansion, at which I continued for three or four days, is built +upon a natural terrace, part of a fine hill that juts out into the lake, +and creates a little bay that laves its south side, and forms a safe +harbour for the boats of the family, in one of which I remember to have +had the pleasure of making an exploring cruise under the infliction of +as pitiless a shower as ever a party of fair voyagers was pelted by. + +On either hand range the bold finely-timbered hills by which the lake is +bordered, until, gradually rounding at the southern extremity, it +affords space for one of the neatest little towns I ever visited, and +whose white buildings and glittering vanes give a charming termination +to the view from Hyde, from which it is distant some eight or nine +miles; but the character of the vista, and there being only water +between, makes it look nearer by half this space. + +On Monday, June 30th, after abiding three cold, wet days, quitted Mr. +C----e's family, drove along the bank of the lake to Cooper's Town, and +thence took stage for Utica, accompanied by my young Whig companion, who +now had the field of politics to himself; for our Tory friend had turned +upon his steps for Albany. + +We did not reach Utica till late in the afternoon, the distance being +forty miles, and our rate of going not exceeding six miles per hour: we +made no halt here, but, hiring a carriage, immediately pushed for the +Retreat at Trenton Falls, which we did not arrive at until after ten +o'clock P.M. The people, however, were yet up, and with much civility +set to work to provide us with a broiled chicken and a fresh trout, over +which we quickly forgot a very rough day's ride. + + + + +TRENTON FALLS. + + +On awaking here in the morning, I rejoiced to hail the beams of a fine +warm sun breaking into my little chamber; it had been a stranger for the +last few days; and the weather, after having been prematurely hot, had +at once jumped back into March, and become wet, boisterous, and cold to +a most provoking degree. + +After an early breakfast we set out, with the din of the waters sounding +an alarum in our ears, and directing our steps. + +Immediately on quitting the hall of the Retreat, we entered upon a grove +of fine trees overhanging the bed of the torrent, and thence descended +by several flights of ladders planted _en échelon_, for some hundred and +sixty feet, until we at last stood on a level with the swift dark +stream, and, looking upwards, beheld the forest high overhead bending +from either side, with a narrow strip of clear blue sky drawn between. +The first fall was visible about five hundred yards to our left; its +waters tumbling, as it seemed, over the tops of the intervening trees, +to whose foliage the late heavy rains had restored the freshness of +early spring. + +Looking about from this first point, I could have readily imagined +myself standing upon the floor timbers of a first-rate ship buried in a +wooded ravine, so evenly were the sides of the rock scooped out; and +this impression was assisted by narrow layers of different strata, which +ran in slightly curved lines placed at equal distances, giving the +effect of the ship's sheer and planking, whilst through her entrance or +cloven bow the white foam rushed. + +Walking upward, along a narrow strand of bare rock, with the forest +pressing on you, as, bent almost double in some places, you stoop +beneath the overhanging cliff on which it grows; then for a time closely +shouldering the precipice, walk upon a ledge or projecting shelf of from +one to three feet wide, the current below boiling and whirling along the +while, of dazzling brilliance; I at one moment counted five rainbow +arches, perfect and imperfect. What a succession of "Maidens of the +Mist" might a lover of romance conjure up from these vexed waters on a +fine moonlight night! + +Proceeding onwards, you, on quitting this point, descend once more into +the river's bed; and here the resistless power of the torrent when at +its full is made manifest by the ruin which on all sides marks its +headlong course. Trees of the largest growth lie twenty feet above its +ordinary level; some with their roots uppermost, others sustained +athwart the arms of their sturdier fellows, here decay and rot amidst +their living leaves. + +Passing the second fall, we mounted a few steps to a resting-place, +named the "Rural Retreat;" and here, from a little box perched on the +point of a huge rock which abuts right upon the great abyss, we had a +scene before us and about us of great wildness and grandeur; whilst high +over all waved the original forest, contemporary with the continent +itself,--trees beneath whose shade the sachems of the warlike Mohawks +had feasted and legislated. + +The last fall lies about a quarter of a mile above this point; and +immediately below is a dangerous pass, where the vast mass of falling +water is hurled in its course against a deeply-serrated rock, over which +rock the curious visitor is obliged to tread, making a step across an +angle formed by the boiling whirlpool, clinging to a stout chain, and +closely shouldering the rock; the river passing below, with a motion +anything but composing for a nervous man to cast a sidelong glance upon. +At all points of peril, however, lines of chain are securely riveted, +affording a dependable holdfast; which after rains is indeed absolutely +necessary, where a single _faux pas_ would be fatal. + +A little to our left the water of the river was collected into a basin +of about one hundred yards' diameter; overflowing which, it found a +narrow outlet between two rocks, and thence precipitating itself in a +flood of the colour of amber, was bridged by rainbows dazzling to look +upon, although a person of ordinary nerve has nothing to encounter +really dangerous; yet, at this point, a very few years back, an accident +of a fatal nature did occur, and under circumstances which give to it a +melancholy interest and will ever keep it as a legend of the place. + +A family party, consisting of father, mother, son, two daughters, and +the betrothed of one of the latter, a fine girl of seventeen, arrived +in company at the "Retreat," where the parents decided upon remaining +whilst the rest of the company explored the more adventurous route +succeeding. + +On went the young people in high glee,--the last fall was at length +achieved; here, after standing for a moment upon the table rock against +which the strength of the fall bursts, one by one the attentive lover +handed the merry girls up the dizzy step: he turned to offer to his +young betrothed the last and dearest act of gallantry, but the rock was +naked; the object of his care, who but the instant before smiled in his +face, was here no longer. + +Not a soul of the party had witnessed any movement of their vanished +companion. Absorbed by the scene, they were struggling onward beneath +the overhanging cliff, when the arrival of the distracted lover, his mad +gesticulations and horror-stricken looks, recalled them to hear his loss +and aid his search. + +For a few minutes the hope that she had turned back, or concealed +herself to cause a false alarm, held the worst conclusion at bay: but, +on reaching a little cove a few yards lower down, this hope was +crushed, and conviction of her fate placed before them; for here, +quietly floating on the smooth eddy, lay a gaily-trimmed bonnet. It was +at once recognised: the lover sprang into the river, snatched it up, and +found within its hollow the comb of her they sought. + +She had, in truth, slipped from off that giddy ledge, and, sinking at +once below the influence of the whirlpool, lay calmly upon its rocky +bed. + +Next day, after much perseverance, the body was found, and rescued from +beneath the very point off which she must have fallen; not a feature was +discomposed, as it is said, or a garment ruffled: to use the words of my +informant, who for thirty years has listened to the roar of this +torrent, "She looked just as though she had lain down to sleep in the +rain, where I saw her, stretched out upon the ledge here." + +The details of this story were given to me with added interest by the +narrator, from the circumstance that, the very day previous, two of the +party alluded to had revisited the spot for the first time since the +chance which made it to them so memorable. + +Our guide, I believe, related the particulars of one or two other +accidents; but after this I had ears for no more. That the young and +happy maid should in one moment be snatched from a world to her so +bright and beautiful, and engulphed down deep in that cold pool, her +brothers in her sight, her lover by her side, yet no hand held forth to +save her, was a picture too sorrowful to be shifted for any other. I +could not indeed forget it during the remainder of the day, and the rush +of the water no longer roused me to exertion. From this spot we turned, +and retraced our steps to the hotel. + +Our next morning was devoted to an excursion down the stream, to a spot +where a saw-mill was at work and a strong rude bridge in progress; we +crossed upon it, unfinished as it was, and in a meadow upon the west +side, Herkimer county, I believe, saw two youngsters herding a couple of +fine cows. I called them to me, but the girl, at the sight of my +companion and myself, ran off like a lapwing; the boy, a redheaded +chubby rogue, about twelve years of age, was however soon persuaded to +approach. When we questioned as to where his mammy lived, he pointed +over the meadow to a thicket from out of which a little column of light +smoke was rising; but in reply to one or two other queries, after a +scratch or two at his head, our little squire boldly bolted out "No +English!" + +And sure enough not another word could we coax out of him: he was, +however, quite willing and able to make it up in good Irish, and much +did I regret not being able to have a "goster" with him. From one of the +carpenters at work on the bridge I learned that the mother spoke only +Irish, but that she managed her dairy and farm admirably; and that the +father, who was just able, as they expressed it, "to tell what he +wanted," worked at the mill, and got "a heap o' money jobbin' about at +one thing or t'other." + +These poor people had been in this neighbourhood about three years: they +had arrived here destitute, friendless, ignorant even of the language of +the country; but they were industrious and persevering, and at this time +may have been said to possess independence; for they were owners of +sixty acres of excellent land, a cow or two, a few sheep, with poultry, +pigs, and other evidences of pastoral wealth. The situation of their +little cottage might be envied by many a wealthy builder in search of a +beautiful site, and the country about them is perfectly healthy. + +We this day met at the hotel a new arrival or two, and sat down in +company to a very neat dinner: the trout here is excellent, and the +butter the best out of Philadelphia. + +On the 2nd of July we left this comfortable house; and it was not +without reluctance I so soon bade farewell to the Falls of Trenton, +which, beautiful in themselves, are surrounded by a country possessing +so much attraction that I felt a strong desire to become more intimate +with it. + +My companion, Mr. H----, having met with a couple of friends here who +were journeying our way, it was proposed that we should join company as +far as Niagara, taking to our own use an extra. This we readily procured +at Utica; the postmaster agreeing to forward the party to Buffalo by a +route we laid down, for the sum of seventy-five dollars, the distance +being nearly two hundred miles. We were by our agreement entitled to +halt as long as we chose at any place on our route, and, moreover, were +to be driven at the rate of seven miles per hour at the least. + +All these points being duly arranged, we left the thriving city of Utica +in as heavy a storm of rain as could well fall, the weather having once +more become cold and cheerless: a more dismal night I never would desire +to encounter. The rate of travelling soon fell below the minimum of our +stipulated pace: to do the drivers justice, this was owing to no fault +of theirs, but the roads were cut into gullies broad and deep, and the +tumbling we got would have been of vast service to a dyspeptic subject. +The state of the weather was the more to be regretted as we were passing +through some of the best cultivated farms in this State; and, +notwithstanding the disadvantageous nature of the medium through which I +saw the land, this character appeared to me well deserved. + +The farmhouses were very numerous, generally built of good brick, and +putting forth strong claims on admiration in the shape of various +ornamental flourishes; an ambition which distinguishes the rural +architecture indeed of all this State, giving evidence of the ease and +growing wealth, if not of the purest taste, existing amongst the +proprietary. + +Syracuse we passed through in the middle of the storm and the darkness +of night; and about six A.M. were safely landed under the ample portico +of the hotel at Auburn, celebrated for its prison, regulated upon what +is called the "silent system." + +Whilst my companions were making toilet I set forth to visit this penal +abode, the character of which is made sufficiently evident as you +approach the lofty walls that encompass so much of misery and guilt. At +regular distances upon these battlements I perceived sentry-boxes, with +men keeping watch, musket in hand. + +A small sum is here paid for admittance. On my arrival at the lodge, I +was informed that the prisoners were at breakfast, during which time +visitors were prohibited: I therefore had to wait some minutes in this +place; and, except the occasional fall of a heavy bolt, did not hear a +sound; the very turnkeys seemed infected by the system which it was +their duty to enforce, and they moved in and out in silence, or spoke in +monosyllables hardly above a whisper. + +Following the gaoler, I was passed within the square at the very moment +when the prisoners were moving out from their breakfast-hall on the way +to renew their several labours; and the sight was to me one of sickening +melancholy. + +They were marched from the building in squads, using what is called the +"lock-step," and were jammed together as close as they could possibly +tread: they moved in quick-time, and fell out singly, or in pairs, as +they arrived at the point nearest to the scene of their employment. + +I observed that, notwithstanding the regularity of labour, and the +unquestionably wholesome diet provided here, the faces of the +individuals composing these ruffian squads were uniformly pale and +haggard; yet, on saying so much to my guide, I was assured that disease +is comparatively rare amongst them, and that many who enter here with +broken constitutions recover their bodily vigour and are made whole men +again. + +The cleanliness of this prison-house, the convenient distribution of its +various offices, and, indeed, the evident excellence of its general +arrangement, must strike every stranger with admiration, and doubtless +presented to the commissioners of inquiry recently appointed from +England many hints worthy of adoption for home use. Of the merits of the +system itself it does not become me to speak; it has been well +considered by wise and worthy men, who continue to watch over its +working with a philanthropic spirit; but I confess that the impressions +I received from my visits to these prisons were anything but in its +favour. + +At eight A.M. we quitted Auburn, the weather clear and mild: we crossed +the head-water of the Seneca Lake upon a well-built bridge, a mile and a +quarter in length, and, with this exception, observed no point of +interest until we approached the Lake of Geneva. + +This is one of the lions of this route, and in no way disappointed our +raised expectations. Gradually winding about the eastern bend of the +lake, the road affords to the traveller a continuous view of the +location of the little city; and certainly nothing was ever more happily +chosen than the fine hill over whose side it is built, its streets +rising gradually from the edge of the clear water in which they are +reflected. + +Entering the main street, I observed that the stores were large and +substantially built; there was a great bustle, and an air of business +too, about most of them, which it was pleasant to look upon. The hotel +at which we drew up was a large, well-appointed house: the landlord, +finding that we were strangers, civilly invited us to ascend to the +gallery upon the roof; and certainly the view it afforded was one I +should have been sorry to miss. + +The environs appear to possess an unusual number of tasteful villas; on +all sides these might be distinguished, giving and receiving adornment +from the situation. The lake itself looked like a huge mirror; and from +its polished surface was clearly reflected every turn of its shores, and +each cloud that floated over it. Its characteristics are softness and +repose; of a certainty it must have been a feminine spirit that presided +at the creation of this spot, for its features are all of gentleness and +beauty. + +At Canandaigua we stopped to dine at a very large, and, I should +imagine, good hotel: the landlord was exceedingly obliging. The regular +dinner of the house was long past, but he managed to get us a very +tolerable meal; and what was wanting in this he made up by giving us an +excellent bottle of wine. + +In the environs of this place, as at Geneva, I observed a number of +well-built and neatly-appointed villas; indeed, this sort of country +residence is better kept, and built in better taste, in this western +country than I have elsewhere observed in the States. + +About nine P.M. we arrived at Avon Springs; and here we called a halt +for the night, not a little pleased with the prospect of a comfortable +bed, which the appearance of the inn gave promise of. + +This place is a good deal frequented of late years by invalids, its +mineral waters being found of great service in dyspepsia,--the most +crying complaint of the country next to the removal of the deposits, and +certainly more universal. + +I here found my excellent friend R----d, who, together with his young +bride, had accompanied his father-in-law, who was desirous of testing +the salubrity of these springs. He described the surrounding country as +beautiful, and the little place itself as agreeable enough for a short +sojourn. + +The fourth of July, the anniversary of American Independence, was to be +duly celebrated by a ball, for which my friend had received an invite +printed upon the back of the nine of hearts; a medium now obsolete in +England, but conserved here in its integrity. + +A less amusing remembrancer of the glorious event began to parade the +avenue at an early hour in the shape of a patriotic drummer, having an +instrument, to judge by its sound, coeval with the first fight for that +freedom it was beaten to celebrate. If anything could have kept me +awake, this cracked drum would; and, in truth, I had my fears, when, on +entering my room, I heard my hero ruffing it away immediately in front +of the window; but they were groundless apprehensions, though his +efforts were varied and unceasing, for I undressed to the tune of the +"Grenadiers' March," stepped into bed to the "Reveille," and dropped +fast asleep to the first part of "Yankee Doodle!" + +At six A.M. of the 4th we were once more in motion; the vapours of night +were yet hanging thick and low; but through the dense atmosphere, as we +rolled down the avenue, I heard the indefatigable functionary, who +composed the military band of Avon, determinately beating "Hail +Columbia!" + +At the village of Caledonia we found that a ball was afoot, and we +pushed on eagerly for Buffalo, anticipating, from the importance of the +place and the wealth of its citizens, something in the way of display +worthy of their loyalty and of the occasion. + +Between Le Roy, a town of remarkable neatness, and Batavia, I +encountered my first sample of a corduroy-road, or, as it is sometimes +facetiously termed, a Canadian railway. + +Our driver, a merry fellow, called out that we must look out "not to get +mixed up of a heap," and rattled at it. I did not require much +experience to decide that travelling over a road of corduroy was by no +means going on velvet; but the effect was not so bad as I had expected +to prove it: by holding fast, one could keep one's seat tolerably well, +without much fear of dislocation; but I would strongly recommend any man +having loose teeth, to walk over this stage, unless he desires to have +them shaken out of his head. + +From Batavia the road is execrable, and the country without a feature to +interest or amuse, uncultivated, wild, and dismal. It was about half an +hour before sunset when we entered Buffalo, the City of the Lakes, the +entrepôt for these inland oceans. + + + + +BUFFALO. + + +America is, perhaps, in our day, the only country wherein these infant +capitals, these embryo cities, may be seen, and their growth noted, as +they are gradually developed before living eyes. + +A very few years back, this frontier, now so populous and thriving, was +only known as "the Wilderness;" and upon the edge of this, washed by the +waters of Lake Erie, has Buffalo sprung up. The great source of that +gratification which is felt on a near view of this, and other places of +similar origin, is to be found in the feeling that they derive their +being from the prosperous industry of our fellow-men, and that in their +increase we behold its happy continuance. They are the vouchers which +America may fairly produce to show that the fruition of liberty has been +with her productive of increased energy and spreading enterprise. + +These places have not, like St. Petersburg, been raised up in obedience +to the policy or the caprice of a despot; the work of bondsmen, founded +amidst pestilence, and cemented with blood and tears. The unfinished +palace of the half-savage prince already the tomb of hundreds of its +miserable builders; a city of marble founded upon a marsh. + +Here, it is true, was a wonder having no parallel, of which the living +of the last century might have observed the progress,--one may add, the +completion, as, should its lord so will, the present generation may look +upon its abandonment and depopulation;--but the cause of the existence +of St. Petersburg calls up no generous sympathy with its progress, +because we know that the labour was constrained; and from its story, +when fairly told, we rise, not with pride in the power of our kind, +which had overcome so many obstacles, but with pity for the suffering +and debasement of humanity constrained to such exertion. On the +contrary, these yet humble cities of America, so humble as sometimes to +draw from the far-travelled a sneer upon the application of the word, +are surrounded by a healthful, moral atmosphere: their infancy is +vigorous, giving promise of a long endurance and ultimate greatness, +only to be limited by the will of the King of kings. + +From the roof of the Eagle, a very large hotel, I took a general view of +the wide-spread frame of Buffalo, whose many as yet barely definable +streets are in the keeping of houses so thinly scattered, that they +reminded me of lines of sentries placed to denote occupation. I traced +the course of the great Erie canal from the Niagara river to the lake, +whose busy harbour was filled with steamers, schooners, and other +trading craft. + +After sunset we descended from our lofty observatory, and followed the +line of the main street, witnessing the rejoicings called forth by this +anniversary of American Independence. The feeling of the community at +large could only be guessed at, since it made no sign; but if the body +politic of Buffalo might be considered fairly represented by some +hundred or so of active urchins who were congregated in a square near +the centre of the main street, nothing could be more ardent than this +city's gratitude, for these delegates beat drums, blew fifes, fired +crackers, and huzzaed until the welkin rang with their shrill small +yells. We found, upon inquiry, that there was no ball, dinner, or other +public demonstration; the reason was ascribed to the extreme violence of +party politics, which at this period completely divided the community, +and were carried out to an extent without precedent in their brief +annals. + +The street was chiefly occupied by a number of Indians of the Seneca +tribe, dressed in a costume part native and part European: these +holiday-keepers lounged lazily about in all the delight of utter +intoxication, the men invariably in groups by themselves, and the ladies +of the tribe trapesing after them at a long interval with stoical +indifference. + +Nothing can be more subversive of the poetry one's early recollections +connect with this race, than a first rencontre with the outcasts by whom +it is represented on these frontiers, who daily degenerate where all +else seems to thrive, and who perish in the midst of an abundance, +which, for all but them, increases with each year. + +I am not sure whether it would not be more humane to deal upon the +natives as summarily as with their forests; for the fall of the former +before the advance of civilization is not, though slower, less certain. + +They may at present be likened to girdled trees, about whose vigorous +trunk the axe of the woodman is but lightly drawn, yet whose fall is +assured past remedy; the springs of health and life are stopped, upon +their fading leaves the sun rises and heaven's dews descend in vain; for +a little while they continue to wave their naked crests in the gale, and +hold forth their gaunt limbs as if life were in them, objects exciting +at once commiseration and disgust; until, crumbled into decay, the +unseemly skeletons lie prostrate athwart the roots of their once +fellows, who were stricken down in their bloom, and so perished by a +quicker and more merciful sentence. + + + + +NIAGARA. + + +I felt interested with Buffalo, and had promised myself much pleasure +from a visit to the country occupied by a branch of the Seneca tribe in +its neighbourhood; but Niagara was now within a few hours,--the great +object of the journey was almost in sight. I was for ever fancying that +I heard the sound of the "Thunder-water"[12] booming on the breeze; so, +with a restlessness and anxiety not to be suppressed, I got into the +coach on the day after my arrival at the capital of the lakes, and was +in a short time set down on the bank of the swift river Niagara, at the +ferry, which is some four miles from Buffalo. + +We found the little rapids about the shore occupied by fishers of all +ages, who required but a small share of the patience which is deemed so +essential a qualification to the followers of this melancholy sport, for +they were pulling the simple wretches out as fast as the lines could be +baited and offered. + +The shipment was quickly effected, and in a few minutes our faces were +turned from the dominion of the States. The vessel was a large +horse-boat; that is, a flat propelled by paddle-wheels similar to those +of a steam-boat, only wrought by horse-power,--an animal tread-mill in +fact. Whether the horses working this were here on good behaviour, or +not, I could not rightly ascertain, but certainly they were +scampish-looking steeds, their physiognomical expression was low and +dogged, such as one might expect from the degrading nature of their +unvarying task. + +On the larboard gangway of our flat the American jack floated, and over +the starboard side waved the Union flag of Old England; they fluttered +proudly side by side, a worthy brotherhood, and so united may they long +be found! + +The ride along the Canada shore was very fine, the noble stream being +constantly in sight: the country appeared thickly populated; but the +land poor, the cultivation of it, I believe, is not found very +profitable. + +We halted to water the team at a public-house that stands upon the +ground where was fought the battle of Chippewa, which, as the Yankees +say, "eventuated just no how." This was the twentieth anniversary; and, +on alighting from the box, I was exceedingly amused to find the host and +a smart wayfaring young man, with mutual vehemence well worthy the +cause, fighting the battle over again. + +From this house the eternal mist caused by the great fall may be plainly +seen curling like a vast body of light smoke, and shooting occasionally +in spiral columns high above the tree-tops; but not a sound told of its +neighbourhood, although we were not five miles distant from it, and the +day was calm and clear. At about three miles from this, as the vehicle +slowly ascended a rise, I heard for the first time the voice of the +waters, and called the attention of my friends within the carriage to +the sound. + +Never let any impatient man set out for Niagara in one of these coaches; +a railroad would hardly keep pace with one's eagerness, and here were we +crawling at the rate of four miles per hour. I fancied that the last +three miles never would be accomplished; and often wished internally, as +I beat the devil's tattoo upon the footboard of the coach-box, that I +had bought or borrowed or stolen a horse at Chippewa, and galloped to +the wonder alone and silently. + +At length the hotel came in view, and I knew that the rapid was close at +hand. + +"Now, sir, look out!" quietly said the driver. + +I almost determined upon shutting my eyes or turning away my head; but I +do not think it would have been within the compass of my will so to have +governed them; for even at this distant moment, as I write, I find my +pen move too slow to keep pace with the recollections of the impatience +which I seek to record. + +It was at the moment we struck the foot of the hill leading up to the +hotel that the rapid and the great horse-shoe fall became visible over +the sunken trees to our right, almost on a level with us. I have heard +people talk of having felt disappointed on a first view of this +stupendous scene: by what process they arrived at this conclusion I +profess myself utterly incapable of divining, since, even now that two +years have almost gone by, I find on this point my feelings are not yet +to be analyzed; I dare not trust myself to their guidance, and only know +that my wildest imaginings were forgotten in contemplating this awful +reality. + +A very few minutes after we were released from the confinement of the +coach saw myself and companions upon the Table-rock; and soon after we +were submitting to the equipment provided by a man resident upon the +spot for persons who chose to penetrate beneath the great fall, and +whose advertisement assured us that the gratification of curiosity was +unattended with either inconvenience or danger, as water-proof dresses +were kept in readiness, together with an experienced guide. The +water-proof dress given to me I found still wet through; and, on the +arrival of the experienced guide, I was not a little surprised to see +the fellow, after a long stare in my face, exclaim, + +"Och, blur an' 'oons! Mr. Power, sure it's not yer honour that's come +all this way from home!" + +An explanation took place; when I found that our guide, whom I had seen +some two years before as a helper in the stable of my hospitable friend +Smith Barry, at Foaty, was this summer promoted to the office of +"Conductor," as he styled himself, under the waterfall. + +And a most whimsical "conductor" he proved. His cautions, and "divil a +fears!" and "not a hap'orth o' danger!" must have been mighty assuring +to the timid or nervous, if any such ever make this experiment, which, +although perfectly safe, is not a little startling. + +His directions,--when we arrived at the point where the mist, pent in +beneath the overhanging rock, makes it impossible to distinguish +anything, and where the rush of air is so violent as to render +respiration for a few seconds almost impracticable,--were inimitable. + +"Now, yer honour!" he shouted in my ear--for we moved in Indian +file,--"whisper the next gintleman to follow you smart; and, for the +love o' God! shoulder the rock close, stoop yer heads, and shut fast yer +eyes, or you won't be able to see an inch!" + +I repeated my orders verbatim, though the cutting wind made it difficult +to open one's mouth. + +"Now thin, yer honour," he cried, cowering down as he spoke, "do as ye +see me do; hould yer breath, and scurry after like divils!" + +With the last word away he bolted, and was lost to view in an instant. +I repeated his instructions however to the next in file, and, as +directed, scurried after. + +This rather difficult point passed, I came upon my countryman waiting +for us within the edge of the curve described by this falling ocean; he +grasped my wrist firmly as I emerged from the dense drift, and shouted +in my ear, + +"Luk up, sir, at the green sea that's rowlin' over uz! Murder! bud iv it +only was to take a shlope in on uz!" + +Here we could see and breathe with perfect ease; and even the ludicrous +gestures and odd remarks of my poetical countryman could not wholly rob +the scene of its striking grandeur. + +I next passed beyond my guide as he stood on tiptoe against the rock +upon a ledge of which we trod, and under his direction attained that +limit beyond which the foot of man never pressed. I sat for one moment +on the Termination Rock, and then followed my guide back to my +companions, when together we once more "scurried" into day. + +"Isn't it illegant, sir?" began the "Conductor," as soon as we were well +clear of the mist. + +"Isn't it a noble sight intirely? Caps the world for grandness any way, +that's sartain!" + +I need hardly say that in this opinion we all joined loudly; but Mr. +Conductor was not yet done with us,--he had now to give us a taste of +his "larnin." + +"I wish ye'd take notice, sir," said he, pointing across the river with +an air of authority and a look of infinite wisdom. "Only take a luk at +the falls, an' you'll see that Shakspeare is out altogether about the +discription." + +"How's that, Pat?" inquired I, although not a little taken aback by the +authority so gravely quoted by my critical friend. + +"Why, sir, Shakspeare first of all says that there's two falls; now, ye +may see wid yer own eyes that it's one river sure, and one fall, only +for the shtrip o' rock that makes two af id." + +This I admitted was evident; whilst Pat gravely went on: + +"Thin agin, only luk here, sir; Shakspeare says, 'The cloud-cap tower;' +why, if he'd ever taken the trouble to luk at it, he'd seen better than +that; an' if he wasn't a fool,--which I'm sure he wasn't, bein' a grand +poet,--he'd know that the clouds never can rise to cap the tower, by +reason that it stands up above the fall, and that the current for ever +sets down." + +Again I agreed with him, excusing Shakspeare's discrepancies on the +score of his never having had a proper guide to explain these matters. + +"I don't know who at all showed him the place," gravely responded Pat; +"but it's my belief he never was in id at all at all, though the +gintleman that tould me a heap more about it swears for sartin that he +was." + +This last remark, and the important air with which the doubt was +conveyed, proved too much for my risible faculties, already suffering +some constraint, and I fairly roared out in concert with my companion, +who had been for some time convulsed with laughter. + +Whoever first instructed the "Conductor" on this point of critical +history deserves well of the visitors so long as the present subject +remains here to communicate the knowledge; indeed, I trust, before he is +drowned in the Niagara, or burnt up with the whisky required, as he +says, "to keep the could out of the shtomach," the present possessor of +this curiosity in literature will bequeath it to his successor, so that +it may be handed down in its integrity to all future visitors. + +Next morning at an early hour I revisited the "Termination Rock," but +excused myself from being accompanied by "the Conductor." I next +wandered down the stream, and had a delightful bathe in it. Accompanied +by a friend, I was pulled in a skiff as close to the fall as possible, +and in short performed duly all the observances that have been suggested +and practised by curiosity or idleness; but in all these I found no +sensation equal to a long quiet contemplation of the mass entire, not as +viewed from the balconies of the hotel, but from some rocky point or +wooded shade, where house and fence and man and all his petty doings +were shut out, and the eye left calmly to gaze upon the awful scene, and +the rapt mind to raise its thoughts to Him who loosed this eternal flood +and guides it harmless as the petty brook. + +There never should have been a house permitted within sight of the fall +at least. How I have envied those who first sought Niagara, through the +scarce trod wilderness, with the Indian for a guide; and who slept upon +its banks with the summer trees for their only shelter, with the sound +of its waters for their only _réveille_. + +Now, one is awakened here by a bell, which I never can liken to any +other than a dustman's, and can hardly find a spot whereto parasols and +smart forage-caps intrude not. + +I would even include in my denunciation the tower which is now erected +upon the piece of rock that abuts upon the great fall, and standing in +whose gallery you actually hang suspended over the abyss; not but that +the tower is in itself rudely simple, and in good taste perhaps, but +that one feels this place needs no such accessories, and, instead of +deriving advantage from them, is degraded into a mere show by their +presence; and, in saying this much, I feel as though the application of +the term was a profanation. + +I only saw three natives near the fall during my stay; but these formed +a little group I would like much to have had Landseer look upon. + +I was walking one morning before breakfast about a quarter of a mile +below the fall, when I suddenly came upon a squaw leaning against a +tree: as many of the Tuscaroras understand a few words of English, I +addressed her with "Good morning, good morning!" + +With a calm bend of the head she placed her fingers over her lips by +way of return to my salutation, turning herself at the same time a +little away as if to avoid further notice or intercourse: curiosity, +however, overcame good-breeding in me, and mounting the little bank to a +level with the shady tree against which she passively leaned, I +immediately became aware of her object. + +Coiled up, on the earth, by her feet lay an Indian, his head and +shoulders wrapped close in his blanket; upon this motionless mass her +eyes were calmly fixed: against the opposite side of the tree sat a very +handsome lad, about eight or nine years old, who never lifted his head +to look on the intruder: near the boy crouched a half-starved hound of +the lurcher kind, a red-coloured, wire-haired brute, with a keen cold +Indian look, and as apparently incurious as the best-taught warrior of +the tribe: there was no wagging of the tail in friendly recognition, as +might be expected from a kindly European dog; neither was there the +warning growl and spiteful show of bristled crest and angry teeth, nor +any suspicious circling round the stranger, with tail tucked close and +thievish scrutiny, so common amongst low-bred white curs; this hound of +the Red-man, on the contrary, deported himself in a manner creditable to +his race, and to the tribe of his adoption: I do not believe his eye was +ever once raised to survey me; or, if it was, the movement was so well +managed that I did not detect it. + +Supported against the tree stood a long rifle, over whose muzzle was +hung a scarlet shoulder-belt and pouch, richly worked with an embroidery +of blue and white beads; by a thong of hide was also suspended from the +rifle a sheath of leather, through which protruded a couple of inches of +the bright broad blade of a knife: these I readily conceived to be the +appointments of the sleeping man; and the trio thus patiently watching +his slumbers,--his wife, child, and dog. + +I looked upon this savage group for some minutes, and no happier scene +could have been found for such a rencontre:--the grassy knoll which the +family occupied; the rich foliage of the butter-nut tree that shaded +them; the wooded heights above, and the deep-channeled river flowing by; +together with a stillness made more thrilling by the sound of the +cataract, for a moment rumbling like near-coming thunder, and then +dying away into a continuous moan, soft and absolutely musical, whilst +afar off its light vapoury masses gently rose and fell, converted by the +morning sun into clouds of silver tissue. I have often, amongst other +vain wishes, sighed for the possession of the painter's power, but never +more than at this moment; and as I silently looked upon the unchanging +group, and called to mind the artists whom such a chance would have +repaid for longer travel, I grieved to think it should have been given +to one whose attempts by description to image it must prove so tame a +record. + +After a long pause, pointing to the coiled-up sleeper, I ventured on a +second inquiry, saying, "Man,--he sick?" + +The squaw fixed her fine eyes upon me, and comprehending my inquiry, +nodded once or twice, articulating in a low musical voice, "Man +sick,--whisky too much--make bad!" + +Again her head drooped, and her eyes rested upon the motionless mass +before her; the little imp and the hound meanwhile never by a sign +indicating their knowledge of the presence of an intruder. I now turned +back towards the hotel, which I had left to watch the sun rise on the +fall from the bed of the river. My early stirring was every way +fortunate, for the morning was fresh and unseasonably cool, consequently +the misty abyss into which the river tumbled was bridged by beautiful +rainbows in every direction; whilst, to crown all, with the exception of +the group I have mentioned, no unhallowed foot broke on the holy place. + +The family had not appeared on my return to the house; so seeking my +little chamber, whose window commanded the rapids and the great fall, I +flung myself upon my bed, and gratefully reviewed all the beauty of +earth and sky which I had been so happily permitted to behold and to +enjoy. + +The days I passed here must always be recalled by me as days of +unalloyed enjoyment; I felt an indescribable calm steal, as it were, +over my spirit. Generally active, impatient, and inquiring, I have +seldom found any neighbourhood which I did not compass in a few days; +but from the vicinity of this spot I had no desire to stir. Finding that +the dinner-hour was two o'clock, which would have destroyed the day, I +requested the proprietor of the hotel, one of the most obliging persons +I ever met,--an Englishman,--to give our little party dinner at five; +and from breakfast to this time I believe our time was usually passed +lounging dreamily about Goat Island, to reach which you cross the river +below the falls to the American side, and then pass over the rapids on a +bridge, which is in itself a wonder. + +The turf of this island, its trees and flowers, retaining in summer the +freshness of spring, the delicious purity of its atmosphere, and the +brightness of its waters, render it most charming. The solitude here has +no drawback; the strong currents of air by which it is encircled defy +the powers of the musquito,--that bane to all thin-skinned people with +pastoral inclinations, and not an insect in the least venomous or +annoying is to be found here. + +This Island of the Rainbow, as it has been poetically and not +inappropriately named, is situated exactly between the falls; +surrounded, and intersected in part, by rapids frightful to look on. +Before American enterprise and ingenuity spanned these with the bridge +that now connects the Iris isle with the main land, the approach to it +must have been attended with great difficulty and much danger; indeed, +I believe it was very rarely attempted; at present it is occupied by one +or two poor families, who tend a garden now in progress, under the care +of the proprietor of the place. + +Within these few years, a young man of good appearance was known to have +taken up his abode here; he shunned all observance, only holding +communion with a poor family who procured him what necessaries he +needed. After a residence of two years he died, without leaving the +slightest clue to his name or country. That his condition was gentle may +be inferred from his accomplishments: a flute and a guitar, on both of +which he is said to have played much and well, with a drawing or two, +are all that remain of the recluse, although the man who attended upon +him says he sketched and wrote much. + +Certainly no anchorite ever selected a pleasanter summer solitude: how +he got through the severity of a five or six months' winter in a place +so exposed can only be imagined, since the hermit died and "made no +sign." + +I visited the other lions of the place, but took little heed of them. +The sulphur springs were exhibited, and the gas ignited, by a +remarkably fine old man, who was full of anecdote of the late war: one +or two of his stories I took good note of, and purpose availing myself +of them at some future time. + +On one afternoon I forced myself away to visit the Devil's Hole and the +Whirlpool, situated about five miles below the falls; and a wilder scene +it is impossible for imagination to conceive than the deep rocky basin +into which the river is precipitated, and from which it issues at right +angles from its previous course, bearing with it portions of the wrack +accumulated within the black vortex of this fearful pool, into whose +gulf it is impossible to look without a shudder. The drive through the +forest was delightful; and, if any sight could have repaid me for +leaving the neighbourhood of the falls, this fitting _pendant_ would be +that sight. + +The bad weather which occurred so late in the month of June, and, +indeed, continued through the first days of July, had retarded the +advance of visitors. At the period of our stay there were but two or +three strangers here besides ourselves; and, not dining at the public +table, these I never saw except at a distance. The weather during the +day was warm without being oppressive, the evenings and nights +deliciously cool. + +I had brought my companion, Mr. H----e, thus far on a promise of +returning with him in a few days, and never did I feel more urged to +break faith: but knowing that he was compelled to return in a certain +time, and had accompanied me out of sheer good-nature, I could not +reconcile it to myself to let him journey back alone; for our companions +were bound on a wide tour through the Canadas. + +After a halt here of only three short days then, I finally crossed the +Niagara for the American shore, and immediately took a coach for +Tonnewanta, to intercept the boat on its way from Buffalo by the Erie +canal, intending to journey by this route as far as Rochester. + +At Tonnewanta, a pretty little village, we were detained two or three +hours; and here I once more encountered my family of Tuscarora Indians. +The man was at this time wide awake, but still half drunk; and, although +a fine-made fellow, had that horrid brutal look which accompanies +continued debauch. He was attended as I at first saw him, only that now, +as he stood by the public-house door talking with a couple of negroes, +the boy and the hound only were beside him. I looked about for my lady +of the tribe, and perceived her squatted on her heels against the wall, +about fifty paces lower down, "burd alane." + +From a slight furtive glance of the urchin, I perceived that he +recognised me; he spoke a couple of words to his father, who, turning +his head in the direction where I stood, muttered an interjectional +"Ugh!" and resumed his previous calm attitude, contrasting oddly with +the _insouciant_ look and merry grimaces of his negro companions. + +I next walked on to the solitary squaw, in hopes of claiming +acquaintance; but she kept her eyes fixed upon a necklace she was +playing with as gravely as a devotee might tell her beads, and by no +sign of recognition deigned to flatter me. + +Miserable and degraded race! on whose condition much care has been +vainly bestowed, much generous sympathy idly wasted! I say wasted, since +the aborigines of this continent are either above or below sympathy. I +confess my feeling for them has been much changed by a near view of +their condition and a better knowledge of their history and habits; and +whatever complaints they may advance against the rapacity of the white +man, he must at least be admitted a generous historian. + +I shall have occasion hereafter to revert to the unpopular view of this +question, which I have adopted against my inclination in obedience to my +judgment, and meantime must quit my family of the Tuscaroras--what a +name to adorn a tale!--for the canal boat arrived, and in a moment we +were hurried to embark. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[12] The Indian name "Niagara" signifies Thunder-water. + + + + +ERIE CANAL. + + +PACKET-BOAT.--HEAT.--CEDAR SWAMP, LONG SWAMP, AND MUSQUITO +SWAMP.--UTICA. + + +This day, up to the meridian, had been temperately warm, but not in the +least sultry or unbearable. The boat was exceedingly clean, not +over-crowded; and I sat down within its neat cabin, anticipating a +couple of days' quiet travel, which, if a little monotonous, would be at +least unattended by the fatigue and dust of a stage journey between this +and Utica. + +The boat for a few hours went on merrily; the eternal forest closed +about us, and the sound of our horses' feet alone broke upon its +silence. Towards evening the heat became great, and after sunset the +southern sky began to give forth continuous sheets of flame, along whose +pale surface would occasionally dart lines of red forked lightning, +whilst the breeze gradually died away. My first idea was, that we were +about to be favoured with a refreshing storm of rain and thunder; but +vain were my hopes: I watched and listened, but no drop fell, no sound +was heard. + +Meantime, the heat increased as the night closed in: the little cots, +however, were duly hung one below another along the sides of the cabin. +I had procured an upper berth, with a window by my side; and having +exhausted my patience, and wearied my sight watching the fiery sky, I at +last ventured to creep below. Although a hotter atmosphere can hardly be +imagined, I slept tolerably sound; but, on waking, found myself anything +but refreshed. The sun was not yet above the horizon when I crept forth +on to the deck: it was that hour of morning which, of all others, one +expects to be invigorating and cool, as indeed it usually is in all +climates; but here, enclosed within the banks of the canal, and +surrounded by swamp and forest, there was no morning air for us. My mind +was made up to leave the boat at the first place where a stage might be +procured. + +All this day the air absolutely stood still. At our places of halt we +were joined by men who had left the stages in consequence of those +vehicles not being able to travel. Our pace was reduced considerably; +and the cattle, although in excellent condition, were terribly +distressed. At Lockport we found business nearly at a stand-still; the +thermometer was at 110 degrees of Fahrenheit. We passed several horses +dead upon the banks of the canal, and were compelled to leave one or two +of our own in a dying state. Here more persons joined than we could well +accommodate, and I found positively that all movement by the stage route +was at an end, forty horses having fallen on the line the day previous. +To attempt abiding in any of the places along the canal, I was assured +would be an exchange for the worse; so the only course was to endure the +"ills we had," and certainly these did not become the lighter through +practice. Towards the second night our progress became tediously slow, +for it appeared to grow hot in proportion as the evening advanced. + +The south-western sky was again banked up by black clouds, from which +the sheet lightning never ceased to burst. Under other circumstances the +scene would have been viewed as one of infinite grandeur; but, at +present, every consideration became absorbed by our sufferings, for to +this the affair really amounted. + +This night I found it impossible to look in upon the cabin; I therefore +made a request to the captain that I might be permitted to have a +mattress on deck: but this, he told me, could not be; there was an +existing regulation which positively forbade sleeping upon the deck of a +canal packet; indeed, he assured me that this could only be done at the +peril of life, with the certainty of catching fever and ague. I appeared +to submit to his well-meant arguments; but inwardly resolved, _coûte qui +coûte_, not to sleep within the den below, which exhibited a scene of +suffocation and its consequences that defies description. + +I got my cloak up, filled my hat with cigars, and, planting myself about +the centre of the deck, here resolved, _malgré_ dews and musquitoes, to +weather it through the night. + +"What is this name of the country we are now passing?" I inquired of one +of the boatmen who joined me about the first hour of morning. + +"Why sir, this is called the Cedar Swamp," answered the man, to whom I +handed a cigar, in order to retain his society and create more smoke, +weak as was the defence against the hungry swarms surrounding us on all +sides. + +"We have not much more of this Cedar Swamp to get through, I hope?" +inquired I, seeking for some consolatory information. + +"About fifty miles more, I guess," was the reply of my companion, +accompanying each word with a sharp slap on the back of his hand, or on +his cheek or forehead. + +"Thank Heaven!" I involuntarily exclaimed, drawing my cloak closer about +me, although the heat was killing; "we shall after that escape in some +sort, I hope, from these legions of musquitoes?" + +"I guess not quite," replied the man; "they are as thick, if not +thicker, in the Long Swamp." + +"The Long Swamp!" I repeated: "what a horrible name for a country! Does +the canal run far through it?" + +"No, not so very far, only about eighty miles." + +"We've then done with swamps, I hope, my friend?" I inquired, as he kept +puffing and slapping on with unwearied constancy. + +"Why, yes, there's not a heap more swamp, that is to say, not close to +the line, till we come to within about forty miles of Utica." + +"And is that one as much infested with these infernal insects as are +the Cedar and Long Swamps." + +"I guess _that_ is _the_ place above all for musquitoes," replied the +man grinning. "Thim's the real gallinippers, emigrating north for the +summer all the way from the Balize and Red River. Let a man go to sleep +with his head in a cast-iron kettle among thim chaps, and if their bills +don't make a watering-pot of it before morning, I'm d----d. They're +strong enough to lift the boat out of the canal, if they could only get +underneath her." + +I found these swamps endless as Banquo's line: would they had been +shadows only; but alas! they were yet to be encountered, horrible +realities not to be evaded. I closed my eyes in absolute fear, and +forbore further inquiry. + +Here I remained throughout the whole night, dozing a little between +whiles, but never foregoing my cigar for a minute. Towards daylight the +dew descended like rain, but brought with it no coolness to earth or +man: it felt exactly as though it had been boiled the day before, and +had not been left long enough to get cool. + +During this day many of our men frequently threw themselves overboard, +clothes and all on, that is, in shirt and trousers, these being all of +habiliment that could be worn; I really feared that some of them who had +been a little too free in their cold applications, that is, of iced +water and brandy, would have gone mad. + +This blessing of ice we were seldom many hours without, the poorest +hovel on the canal being commonly provided with it in sufficient +abundance to give us a supply. The inhabitants, I found, were suffering +from the unusual continuance of heat as much as strangers: at night they +built huge fires of pine before their doors, so that the thick smoke +might penetrate the dwelling, and scour the infernal musquitoes out of +it. At these fires we would find the poor women sitting in the smoke at +the risk of suffocation; pale, haggard, with their hair neglected and +dishevelled, looking like worn-out ghosts rather than living beings. The +oldest inhabitants on the line of the canal assured us they never +remembered any heat of three days' continuance which could compare to +this; and I believe them, since no man could long endure such a +visitation. + +This evening our condition was in no way improved, except that we heard +the sound and felt the presence of a strong current of northerly wind; +but it blew as though issuing from a furnace, and afforded no present +relief. The sky continued to show "fiery off," and the musquitoes of +that ilk did credit to the genealogy my informant ascribed to them: but +there is a period beyond which even suffering ceases; this happy +insensibility I had attained; and when after midnight we were landed at +Utica, I felt as though I could have slept soundly and well even beneath +the heated deck of our canal packet. + +I got an excellent bed at the hotel, however; and at daylight awoke to +feel once more the delightful sensation of coolness. In the night heavy +rain had fallen; a light but pleasant breeze was blowing; and the past +was already a subject for merriment, although it was such matter for +jest as I never willingly will undertake to collect again. + + + + +LITTLE FALLS. + + +SARATOGA.--BALLSTON.--ALBANY.--MOUNTAIN-HOUSE.--CATSKILL.--HYDE +PARK.--LYNN. + + +The early hour of six A.M. saw us once more in motion for Schnectady, by +way of Little Falls. We pursued what is termed the ridge road, running +along the valley of the Mohawk. + +The day was bright, and not over-warm. The sun's rays being tempered by +a delicious north-east breeze, the condition of the atmosphere +completely re-invigorated the almost prostrate body, whilst the +loveliness of the prospect delighted and cheered the mind. No valley in +the world can present charms more varied or more beautiful; even making +every allowance for the happy change from musquitoes, swamps, close +confinement, and suffocation, to freedom, exercise, and healthful +breezes, with the satisfaction consequent upon the re-enjoyment of all +these. + +We frequently ran along the line of cuttings for the railroad now in +progress between Utica and Schnectady. The rocky nature of the ridge +whose line they pursue, offers formidable impediments; but the work was +proceeding with great rapidity notwithstanding. This railway, when +complete, together with the canal by whose side it runs, will afford a +facility of communication between New York and Utica, which, for speed +and convenience, can have no rival. + +We breakfasted at Little Falls, a small town built on what was, at some +period or other, the very bed of a torrent, amidst the huge piles of +rock riven from the mountains in its course. Although overshadowed by +the steep heights that wall the ravine in which it lies, it is kept cool +and healthful by the constant current of air following the rapid fall of +the river, which is here precipitated over a series of rocky ledges in a +wild and hurried course, giving to the ravine and town the name of +Little Falls. A more picturesque, romantic site no painter could desire. +I felt vexed to be compelled to leave it after about an hour's halt; and +should yet more regret this, did I not hope to revisit it. + +Arriving at Schnectady, we found the railroad train about to start for +Saratoga springs; and, taking our places, we arrived at this Malvern of +America about ten at night, after a delightful day's ride. + +Next morning I got up early, and took a lounge about Saratoga. The +nominal attraction to this place is its water, which is much in vogue, +and may be procured all over the States, being bottled and sold under +the name of Congress water; as in all such places however, pleasure, not +health, is the end pursued by the majority of visitors. + +The day was again close and hot: the street was a foot deep in light +dust, so that every carriage moved in a cloud, and not a breath of air +could rise without bearing this nuisance on its wing. I could not but +think, considering the abundance of water, that there was a lack of +charity in thus withholding a sprinkling from the road, especially as +the resident invalids would, I am sure, have as much benefited by this +mode of application as by any other; since to breathe for any length of +time an atmosphere constantly impregnated with impalpable powder, must +be anything but salutary. + +The chief attraction presented to my eyes was the piazza of the hotel +where myself and friend had our quarters. This was of immense extent, +full twenty feet wide, boarded throughout, and covered by the roof of +the house, which was supported by lofty pillars of pine. About these +columns grew, in the greatest luxuriance, the wild vine of the country, +or some other Clematis, covering them from ground to roof, and forming a +continuous rich drapery throughout the whole extent of the long piazza. + +This forms a promenade for the residents of the house and their +visitors; and, were it out of reach of the dust, it would be difficult +to create one more elegant and agreeable. There are several hotels here, +whose exteriors present all the attractions of cleanliness and great +size, both exceeding good points in so hot a climate as this now was. Of +their internal arrangements I know nothing; for after partaking of a +breakfast, in common with some hundred and fifty elaborately +well-dressed ladies and gentlemen, in a room every way proportioned to +the number of the _convives_, with the thermometer at about 88 degrees, +I declared off, and made up my mind to decamp by the next train to seek +quiet and coolness on the summit of the Catskill mountains. + +On our way we halted for a few hours at Ballston, the quality of whose +water is, I believe, similar to that of the Saratoga springs: the place +itself I liked better, simply, I suppose, because it had less of bustle +and pretension. At the hotel, whose pillared piazza, was, like that I +had just quitted, clothed with the freshest and most luxuriant clematis, +I met a gay young belle of New York, who was resident here with her +family, recruiting a sufficient stock of health to carry her through the +fatigues of a winter campaign. By this lady I had my prepossessions in +favour of Ballston confirmed; she assured me that the society here, +though exceedingly small by comparison, was infinitely more pleasant; +that there was less of dress or ceremony, and consequently more real +comfort and sociability. I left this place with a strong inclination to +remain for a few days at least: but my time of _relâche_ was short; and +my misery was that I had much to see, and many points to visit lying far +asunder, therefore was bound to hasten on, leaving agreeable realities +as soon as found, to seek for something better, which too often proved a +shadow when overtaken. + +Arrived at Albany, however, I found a right substantial welcome +awaiting me from "mine host o' th' Eagle," in the shape of a six o'clock +dinner of trout and woodcock, which would have recommended itself even +without the aid of a hot day's journey and a ten hours' fast. + +Passed the evening with the K----s, one of those families of women +which, if I did not value their delicacy more than my own inclination, I +should like to describe, in contradiction to those who, viewing only the +surface of American society, have so flippantly passed judgment upon its +members. + +And how many of these little circles have I encountered, and been +admitted into, in various parts of these States, composed of women who +have seen little of what is called the world; but whose information, +intelligence, and spirit would have made them the ornaments of any +country; and whose manners, refined, feminine, and naturally graceful, +might with infinite advantage be studied by some of the ungentle censors +whose tone of criticism is so _prononcé_. + +It has often, when visiting in the country, been a matter of surprise to +me to meet with so many women every way presentable, yet who have had +such slight opportunity, as it is called, of acquiring that perfect +ease and repose of manner by which truly well-bred women are readily +distinguishable. + +The fact is, in the cities, where numbers congregate, society is apt +rather to catch its tone from that which is most showy and prominent +than from what, though more refined, is less obvious. In cities, also, +strangers are often presented, and, from a deference to European +fashion, observed and imitated, whose manner might with more profit be +viewed as an example of what ought to be eschewed than held out as a +model for adoption. + +But this is a digression I must close here, and which, indeed, the +recollection of my fair friends at Albany alone could have betrayed me +into. Acquainted with so much that is attractive and admirable in +private life in this country, I should be less than honest did I not +feel a desire to do it such poor justice as the expression of my feeling +may render: I have only to regret that a rigid sense of propriety +condemns me to deal in generalities only upon a point where I could +individualise with such absolute truth. + +At seven o'clock A.M. went on board the Erie steamer, and a little after +ten my companion and myself were landed at Catskill. + +A stage was in waiting at the landing-place, which quickly took us up +to the town; and here we hired a carriage to proceed directly to the +Mountain-house, which we had marked from the river as the morning sun +lighted it up, looking like a white dovecot raised against the dark +hill-side. + +In consequence of some bridge having been recently washed away by a +flood, we were compelled to make a considerable circuit in order to ford +the river; this, however, we accomplished, and continued our ascent +under the happiest auspices. + +I will say nothing of our winding rocky road, or of the glimpses we now +and then had of the nether world, which "momentarily grew less," as, +whilst, halting for breath, we curiously peeped through the leafy +skreen, flying from the faded leaf and drooping flower of scorching +summer, and finding ourselves once more surrounded by all the lovely +evidences of early spring. + +We took nearly five hours to win the house aptly called of the Mountain. +I walked more than half way, and never felt less weary than when I +rested on the natural platform, which, thrust from the hill-side, forms +a stand whence may be worshipped one of the most glorious prospects +ever given by the Creator to man's admiration. + +In the cool shade we stood here, and from this eyrie looked upon the +silver line drawn through the vast rich valley far below, doubtful of +its being the broad Hudson, upon whose bosom we had so lately floated in +a huge vessel crowded with passengers: for this vessel we searched in +vain; but, by the aid of a telescope, made out one of the same kind, +which appeared to flit along like some fairy skiff over a pantomimic +lake made all radiant with gold and pearl. + +How delightful were the sensations attendant upon a first repose in this +changed climate, enhanced as these were by the remembrance of the +broiling we had so recently endured! I never remember to have risen with +feelings more elastic, or in higher spirits, than I did after my first +night's rest upon this mountain: the rooms were small but very clean, +and the house with but few inmates; a circumstance I rejoiced in +exceedingly, although it was perfectly incomprehensible to me, +considering the state of the atmosphere below. + +I found next day that here even there was a lion, in the shape of a +waterfall, to be visited before one could be permitted to take absolute +rest; so away I went to visit it,--a sort of waggon-omnibus being in +preparation to take the inmates through the wood to the fall. + +A ride of some three miles brought us as close as might be to the spot, +and a walk of as many hundred yards presented to view a scene as well +suited for a witches' festival as any spot in the old Hartz. + +In the season of melting snow this must doubtless be a grand affair, for +the fall is full three hundred feet deep; at present a mere rill crept +over the centre of the rocky amphitheatre, and, long before it reached +the basin beneath, it was changed into a silvery shower of light spray. +We found a mill-dam had appropriated all the surplus of the weakened +torrent, close by the head of the fall: as here was a day and night to +recruit in, a trifling bribe induced the sawyers to raise their +floodgates for our especial benefit. + +The bargain being completed, we descended into the bed of the river near +the basin, and, giving the appointed signal, were indulged with a +momentary glimpse of the scene under better form; but still, I am +certain, received no idea of the effect produced here when the machinery +is complete. + +After wandering a little way down the rugged bed of this misused +river,--for surely Nature never designed that its waters should be +arrested in their course to turn a saw-mill,--the party collected to +return: with two others, I decided upon walking back, and pleasant it is +to walk through these quiet wild wood-paths, where the chirp of the +birds and the rustle of the leaves alone break in upon the repose. + +These mountains are everywhere thickly clothed with wood, saving only +the platform whereon the house is built; deer abound on the lower +ridges, and the bear yet finds ample cover here. A number of these +animals are killed every season by an indefatigable old Nimrod who lives +in the valley beneath, and who breeds some very fine dogs to this sport. + +I did promise unto myself that during the coming November I would return +up here, and sojourn with the stout bear-hunter for a few days, for the +purpose of seeing Bruin baited in his proper lair; but regret to say my +plan was frustrated. It must be an exciting chase to rouse the lord of +this wild mountain forest on a sunny morning, with the first hoar frost +yet crisping the feathery pines; and to hear the deep-mouthed hounds +giving tongue where a hundred echoes wait to bay the fierce challenge +back, and to hear the sharp crack of the rifle rattle through the thin +air. + +Or, whilst resting upon some crag under the blue sunny sky, to watch the +sea of cold clouds tumbling about far below, and think that they +o'er-canopy a region lower still, about which one's fellows are at the +moment creeping with red noses and watery eyes, or rubbing their frozen +fingers over anthracite stoves, utterly unconscious, poor devils! that + + + "The sun, when obscured by the clouds, yet above + "Shines not the less bright, though unseen." + + +On Tuesday at five A.M. was roused to breakfast, and descended into the +lower world to meet the Albany steamer. + +I opened my casement and looked forth upon the ocean of mist, whose huge +waves rose and fell as they kept rolling by. It seemed as though river, +valley, and mountain had been overwhelmed by this restless deluge, whose +course was yet unstayed. The sun as yet wanted the power to shine +through the mist; all was dark, chilling, and almost fearful. + +Before breakfast I had a last palaver with our guide; he said that the +extreme denseness of the fog gave assured token of "an awful hot day." + +At six A.M. our muster was completed, and the party for the lower +regions duly told off. As the carriage slowly crept down some of the +steepest portions of the tortuous way, time and opportunities were +afforded to steal a look under the cloudy canopy which the sun was +quickly drawing upwards, and thus good assurance was afforded that the +guide had prognosticated rightly. + +It did look "awful hot," to be sure; a golden-coloured haze seemed to +float over the whole land like the subdued reflection of a bright flame. +It made one feel uncomfortable to look upon the glowing landscape: the +long snaky river gave no idea of coolness; it had a dead shiny look, +only to be likened to a stream of molten lead. + +Meantime we mournfully beheld the green moist leaves, the yet half-open +buds, together with all the other pleasant signs of spring, vanish with +our too hasty fall, and to these succeeded parched grass, dry yellow +leaves, and sickly flowers drooping and over-blown. + +At half-past ten we quitted Catskill in the steamer, and by half-after +twelve were landed at Hyde Park. Mr. W----ks was awaiting our arrival, +and a pair of his trotters soon set us down at his very pretty +country-house, which is one of a cluster of charming residences +scattered along this portion of the north bank of the river. + +A pleasant house and an agreeable party, with the sweetest possible +scenery to ride or walk through, with a river and boats, and every +accessory the frankest hospitality could furnish, might reasonably be +presumed attractive enough to arrest a wayfarer in search of comfort: +one drawback alone was to me insurmountable, mine ancient and implacable +foes the musquito tribe were in full possession. These verdant shades +form a portion of their hunting-ground on the Hudson; with them the +war-hatchet is never buried; I had no sooner taken up my position +therefore, than hostilities were re-commenced; my defence was creditable +enough as I flatter myself; but Hercules himself might have shunned such +fearful odds; I saw no reason therefore why I should abide to have every +vein in my carcase breathed by these Cossacks, in obedience to a mere +point of honour; so, shortly after dinner, I fairly cried peccavi, and +decided to decamp. + +I was almost ashamed to declare my motives of flight to my hostess, +whose hospitality I had accepted for a few days; especially as I saw +others, and women too, heroically abiding the assault: but the truth +is, my residence on the mountain had made me effeminate; Catskill proved +my Cannæ. Freed from every accustomed annoyance in that "shady, blest +retreat," I had absolutely begun to doubt whether there could be any +longer found in the world below either heat or musquitoes; with the +confident presumption of restored vigour, I stooped from my security, +and reaped the harvest of my folly. + +My first idea was to return to the hills, but I had made an appointment +to sail from Nahant down the east coast for a day or two with a friend, +who I knew would expect me; and thither I resolved to push, the more +especially as I was informed musquitoes were not strong enough on the +wing to abide the rough breezes blowing in the bay of Massachusetts. + +It was nigh midnight when the night-boat touched, in its way down, at +the pier of Hyde Park: bidding adieu to my friends, I stepped on board, +and was again cutting through the dark river. + +The boat was crowded; and what a scene did the cabins present! But to +describe it is impossible: indeed, the glance of curiosity I was tempted +to take was an exceedingly brief one. Let the reader only imagine some +two hundred men stowed away in double tiers of berths, or lying in rows +upon stretchers placed close together, between the decks of a steamer, +on one of the hottest, closest nights of a North American summer, and he +may imagine a picture it would be very difficult to describe correctly. + +The night was very beautiful however, and almost reconciled me to +passing it sleepless. Many persons kept the decks, which were yet ample +enough to afford solitude to those who desired it. Myself and H----e +quietly lighted our cigars, and philosophically roughed it out till six +o'clock A.M., at which time we were landed in New York. + +We knocked up the lazy varlets of the hot baths, and with this luxury +balanced the loss of sleep. + +I found myself back in New York sooner than I had anticipated on +starting for the west; but, in the course of the day, discovered that +the good city was yet too hot to hold me. W----n, who by good fortune +was yet holding out here, invited me to dine with B----r and himself at +the club; and, could we only have contrived to ice the atmosphere, +nothing would have been wanting to our comfort. I found these last of +the Romans were off in a day or two for the Springs, after the rest of +the world; so, nothing being left to hold me, I took my passage next +evening for Boston. + +Roomy as is the "Benjamin Franklin," I found on this occasion every +berth already taken: the captain, however, resigned his room to me with +much good-will; so my mischance proved fortunate, as I found myself +installed in a neat cabin having a window opening on the water, which +indeed the heat of the night made most necessary. + +There were two or three southern families on board, bound for Rhode +Island: they appeared worn out by heat and long travel. The women +especially pay dearly, I fear, for their sunny possessions; and what +return can compensate for loss of health? Many of these are natives of +the north; but, marrying southern gentlemen, they follow the fortunes of +their husbands; the distances are great to which they are removed +perhaps; and the necessity for a continuous residence on the plantation +through two or three succeeding summers, saps, for ever, the +constitution of a delicate female. + +The appearance of two or three of these young matrons now on board the +packet excited my more than commiseration; attenuated in form, +sallow-visaged, and fragile as the aspen, they appeared to shrink from +the very breeze, to seek whose freshness they had journeyed so far. Two +of them possessed the remains of positive beauty; their dark hair was of +gossamer fineness, and their handsome eyes sparkled with that unnatural +light which shines as it were from the tomb. No man could have looked +upon them without pity; so attractive, so young, yet so evidently past +all earthly cure. + +Landing at Providence, five hours' ride over a most dusty road brought +us within sight of the State-house of Boston, when a thunder-storm, +which had been for some time threatening, fell upon us with merciless +fury. The overburdened cloud appeared as though it fairly rested upon +the house-tops, and out of it ran a torrent of rain such as I should +only have looked for under the line, or on some tropical island. + +I was outside, and had I even desired to seek shelter, the assault was +of so sudden a nature, and so vigorous, that the worst one could expect +from a complete ducking was effected in a moment: I sat it out +therefore, and arrived at the Tremont uncommonly uncomfortable. + +_July 22nd._--Still on the move, seeking some cool spot where I may +fold my tired wings and take "mine ease." One night's halt convinced me +Boston was no quarter such as I desired just now; the house was crowded, +the thermometer high, and my room as high as the glass, for it was one +hundred and something up four flights of stairs. My good friend, Mr. +T----r, took compassion on my condition, and volunteered to drive me +down to Nahant; so off I was again. We passed across the harbour by one +of the little steamers; and from hence to the pretty town of Lynn, there +is nothing in the landscape particularly attractive. Over the destinies +of this said town of Lynn St. Crispin holds absolute dominion; for the +entire population, man, woman, and child, father, son, and brother, +appear devoted to the calling in whose practice the princely saint was +brought up. + +Vast quantities of shoes are here manufactured for the Indian markets; +the amount exported annually is something enormous. The place wears an +air of great prosperity; the dwellings being of remarkable neatness, and +the public edifices of a size and character highly creditable to the +ambition of these worthy citizens. + +This caste-like monopoly of certain callings is a singular feature in +the economy of the New England republic, there being many of its towns +where trades are exclusively exercised, and the practice of them handed +down as an inheritance from one industrious generation to the next in +succession; and notwithstanding the many arguments lately raised at home +against hereditary honours, I do not find that in Massachusetts a souter +is considered likely to make a shoe, a cooper a cask, or a farmer grow +onions, with less ability, simply because their fathers did the same +before them. + +The drive along the sandy beach from this place to Nahant was a most +agreeable change from the dusty road on a warm July morning, especially +with the prospect of a fresh breeze and a fish breakfast crowning the +rocky peninsula rising boldly in the distance. + +The first happily encountered us before we reached the hotel, much to +our relief; and the second was very quickly provided on our arrival. The +precise day of the month when this place becomes fashionable had not yet +arrived; although the heat, which alone could render such a residence +desirable, had; consequently, there were few visitors, and my fears +about want of room proved groundless. A choice of chambers was +proffered me, and I selected one having an eastern aspect, with a +window that commanded the north-east coast of the vast bay of +Massachusetts; whilst just within reach lay the snugly-sheltered cove +and rocky islet about which, according to the most authentic reports, +the "great sea sarpint" delights to disport him when in a merry mood. +"Who knows," said I to myself, when all the advantages of my location +became known to me,--"who knows but that on some morning, bright and +early, I may behold the monster combing his venerable beard amongst the +rocks below, or see him lift his head to the level of my window--the +height not being over a hundred feet--in civil search of a bit of old +brown Windsor to shave withal?" + +Here, then, will I fix my head-quarters until the prompter's whistle +shall once more summon me to commence a new campaign at New York;--six +weeks nearly, with nothing to do,--it will require some management to +complete this task without weariness! + + +END OF VOL. 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