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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/2272-h.zip b/2272-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..191b3be --- /dev/null +++ b/2272-h.zip diff --git a/2272-h/2272-h.htm b/2272-h/2272-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..38e3225 --- /dev/null +++ b/2272-h/2272-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,3436 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="us-ascii"?> + +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" > + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en"> + <head> + <title> + The Discovery of Guiana, by Sir Walter Raleigh + </title> + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; } + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal; + margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%; + text-align: right;} + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} + +</style> + </head> + <body> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Discovery of Guiana, by Sir Walter Raleigh + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Discovery of Guiana + +Author: Sir Walter Raleigh + +Release Date: March 25, 2006 [EBook #2272] +Last Updated: February 7, 2013 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE DISCOVERY OF GUIANA *** + + + + +Produced by Dagny; John Bickers and David Widger + + + + + +</pre> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h1> + THE DISCOVERY OF GUIANA + </h1> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <h2> + By Sir Walter Raleigh + </h2> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h2> + Contents + </h2> + <table summary="" style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto"> + <tr> + <td> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0001"> INTRODUCTORY NOTE </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0002"> RALEIGH'S DISCOVERY OF GUIANA </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0003"> TO THE READER </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0004"> THE DISCOVERY OF GUIANA </a> + </p> + </td> + </tr> + </table> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0001" id="link2H_4_0001"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h2> + INTRODUCTORY NOTE + </h2> + <p> + Sir Walter Raleigh may be taken as the great typical figure of the age of + Elizabeth. Courtier and statesman, soldier and sailor, scientist and man + of letters, he engaged in almost all the main lines of public activity in + his time, and was distinguished in them all. + </p> + <p> + His father was a Devonshire gentleman of property, connected with many of + the distinguished families of the south of England. Walter was born about + 1552 and was educated at Oxford. He first saw military service in the + Huguenot army in France in 1569, and in 1578 engaged, with his + half-brother, Sir Humphrey Gilbert, in the first of his expeditions + against the Spaniards. After some service in Ireland, he attracted the + attention of the Queen, and rapidly rose to the perilous position of her + chief favorite. With her approval, he fitted out two expeditions for the + colonization of Virginia, neither of which did his royal mistress permit + him to lead in person, and neither of which succeeded in establishing a + permanent settlement. + </p> + <p> + After about six years of high favor, Raleigh found his position at court + endangered by the rivalry of Essex, and in 1592, on returning from + convoying a squadron he had fitted out against the Spanish, he was thrown + into the Tower by the orders of the Queen, who had discovered an intrigue + between him and one of her ladies whom he subsequently married. He was + ultimately released, engaged in various naval exploits, and in 1594 sailed + for South America on the voyage described in the following narrative. + </p> + <p> + On the death of Elizabeth, Raleigh's misfortunes increased. He was accused + of treason against James I, condemned, reprieved, and imprisoned for + twelve years, during which he wrote his "History of the World," and + engaged in scientific researches. In 1616 he was liberated, to make + another attempt to find the gold mine in Venezuela; but the expedition was + disastrous, and, on his return, Raleigh was executed on the old charge in + 1618. In his vices as in his virtues, Raleigh is a thorough representative + of the great adventurers who laid the foundations of the British Empire. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0002" id="link2H_4_0002"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + RALEIGH'S DISCOVERY OF GUIANA + </h2> + <p> + The Discovery of the large, rich, and beautiful EMPIRE Of GUIANA; with a + Relation of the great and golden CITY of MANOA, which the Spaniards call + EL DORADO, and the PROVINCES of EMERIA, AROMAIA, AMAPAIA, and other + Countries, with their rivers, adjoining. Performed in the year 1595 by Sir + WALTER RALEIGH, KNIGHT, CAPTAIN of her Majesty's GUARD, Lord Warden of the + STANNARIES, and her Highness' LIEUTENANT-GENERAL of the COUNTY of + CORNWALL. + </p> + <p> + To the Right Honourable my singular good Lord and kinsman CHARLES HOWARD, + Knight of the Garter, Baron, and Councillor, and of the Admirals of + England the most renowned; and to the Right Honourable SIR ROBERT CECIL, + KNIGHT, Councillor in her Highness' Privy Councils. + </p> + <p> + For your Honours' many honourable and friendly parts, I have hitherto only + returned promises; and now, for answer of both your adventures, I have + sent you a bundle of papers, which I have divided between your Lordship + and Sir Robert Cecil, in these two respects chiefly; first, for that it is + reason that wasteful factors, when they have consumed such stocks as they + had in trust, do yield some colour for the same in their account; + secondly, for that I am assured that whatsoever shall be done, or written, + by me, shall need a double protection and defence. The trial that I had of + both your loves, when I was left of all, but of malice and revenge, makes + me still presume that you will be pleased (knowing what little power I had + to perform aught, and the great advantage of forewarned enemies) to answer + that out of knowledge, which others shall but object out of malice. In my + more happy times as I did especially honour you both, so I found that your + loves sought me out in the darkest shadow of adversity, and the same + affection which accompanied my better fortune soared not away from me in + my many miseries; all which though I cannot requite, yet I shall ever + acknowledge; and the great debt which I have no power to pay, I can do no + more for a time but confess to be due. It is true that as my errors were + great, so they have yielded very grievous effects; and if aught might have + been deserved in former times, to have counterpoised any part of offences, + the fruit thereof, as it seemeth, was long before fallen from the tree, + and the dead stock only remained. I did therefore, even in the winter of + my life, undertake these travails, fitter for bodies less blasted with + misfortunes, for men of greater ability, and for minds of better + encouragement, that thereby, if it were possible, I might recover but the + moderation of excess, and the least taste of the greatest plenty formerly + possessed. If I had known other way to win, if I had imagined how greater + adventures might have regained, if I could conceive what farther means I + might yet use but even to appease so powerful displeasure, I would not + doubt but for one year more to hold fast my soul in my teeth till it were + performed. Of that little remain I had, I have wasted in effect all + herein. I have undergone many constructions; I have been accompanied with + many sorrows, with labour, hunger, heat, sickness, and peril; it + appeareth, notwithstanding, that I made no other bravado of going to the + sea, than was meant, and that I was never hidden in Cornwall, or + elsewhere, as was supposed. They have grossly belied me that forejudged + that I would rather become a servant to the Spanish king than return; and + the rest were much mistaken, who would have persuaded that I was too + easeful and sensual to undertake a journey of so great travail. But if + what I have done receive the gracious construction of a painful + pilgrimage, and purchase the least remission, I shall think all too + little, and that there were wanting to the rest many miseries. But if both + the times past, the present, and what may be in the future, do all by one + grain of gall continue in eternal distaste, I do not then know whether I + should bewail myself, either for my too much travail and expense, or + condemn myself for doing less than that which can deserve nothing. From + myself I have deserved no thanks, for I am returned a beggar, and + withered; but that I might have bettered my poor estate, it shall appear + from the following discourse, if I had not only respected her Majesty's + future honour and riches. + </p> + <p> + It became not the former fortune, in which I once lived, to go journeys of + picory (marauding); it had sorted ill with the offices of honour, which by + her Majesty's grace I hold this day in England, to run from cape to cape + and from place to place, for the pillage of ordinary prizes. Many years + since I had knowledge, by relation, of that mighty, rich, and beautiful + empire of Guiana, and of that great and golden city, which the Spaniards + call El Dorado, and the naturals Manoa, which city was conquered, + re-edified, and enlarged by a younger son of Guayna-capac, Emperor of + Peru, at such time as Francisco Pizarro and others conquered the said + empire from his two elder brethren, Guascar and Atabalipa, both then + contending for the same, the one being favoured by the orejones of Cuzco, + the other by the people of Caxamalca. I sent my servant Jacob Whiddon, the + year before, to get knowledge of the passages, and I had some light from + Captain Parker, sometime my servant, and now attending on your Lordship, + that such a place there was to the southward of the great bay of Charuas, + or Guanipa: but I found that it was 600 miles farther off than they + supposed, and many impediments to them unknown and unheard. After I had + displanted Don Antonio de Berreo, who was upon the same enterprise, + leaving my ships at Trinidad, at the port called Curiapan, I wandered 400 + miles into the said country by land and river; the particulars I will + leave to the following discourse. + </p> + <p> + The country hath more quantity of gold, by manifold, than the best parts + of the Indies, or Peru. All the most of the kings of the borders are + already become her Majesty's vassals, and seem to desire nothing more than + her Majesty's protection and the return of the English nation. It hath + another ground and assurance of riches and glory than the voyages of the + West Indies; an easier way to invade the best parts thereof than by the + common course. The king of Spain is not so impoverished by taking three or + four port towns in America as we suppose; neither are the riches of Peru + or Nueva Espana so left by the sea side as it can be easily washed away + with a great flood, or spring tide, or left dry upon the sands on a low + ebb. The port towns are few and poor in respect of the rest within the + land, and are of little defence, and are only rich when the fleets are to + receive the treasure for Spain; and we might think the Spaniards very + simple, having so many horses and slaves, if they could not upon two days' + warning carry all the gold they have into the land, and far enough from + the reach of our footmen, especially the Indies being, as they are for the + most part, so mountainous, full of woods, rivers, and marishes. In the + port towns of the province of Venezuela, as Cumana, Coro, and St. Iago + (whereof Coro and St. Iago were taken by Captain Preston, and Cumana and + St. Josepho by us) we found not the value of one real of plate in either. + But the cities of Barquasimeta, Valencia, St. Sebastian, Cororo, St. + Lucia, Laguna, Maracaiba, and Truxillo, are not so easily invaded. Neither + doth the burning of those on the coast impoverish the king of Spain any + one ducat; and if we sack the River of Hacha, St. Martha, and Carthagena, + which are the ports of Nuevo Reyno and Popayan, there are besides within + the land, which are indeed rich and prosperous, the towns and cities of + Merida, Lagrita, St. Christophoro, the great cities of Pamplona, Santa Fe + de Bogota, Tunxa, and Mozo, where the emeralds are found, the towns and + cities of Marequita, Velez, la Villa de Leiva, Palma, Honda, Angostura, + the great city of Timana, Tocaima, St. Aguila, Pasto, [St.] Iago, the + great city of Popayan itself, Los Remedios, and the rest. If we take the + ports and villages within the bay of Uraba in the kingdom or rivers of + Darien and Caribana, the cities and towns of St. Juan de Rodas, of + Cassaris, of Antiochia, Caramanta, Cali, and Anserma have gold enough to + pay the king's part, and are not easily invaded by way of the ocean. Or if + Nombre de Dios and Panama be taken, in the province of Castilla del Oro, + and the villages upon the rivers of Cenu and Chagre; Peru hath, besides + those, and besides the magnificent cities of Quito and Lima, so many + islands, ports, cities, and mines as if I should name them with the rest + it would seem incredible to the reader. Of all which, because I have + written a particular treatise of the West Indies, I will omit the + repetition at this time, seeing that in the said treatise I have + anatomized the rest of the sea towns as well of Nicaragua, Yucatan, Nueva + Espana, and the islands, as those of the inland, and by what means they + may be best invaded, as far as any mean judgment may comprehend. + </p> + <p> + But I hope it shall appear that there is a way found to answer every man's + longing; a better Indies for her Majesty than the king of Spain hath any; + which if it shall please her Highness to undertake, I shall most willingly + end the rest of my days in following the same. If it be left to the spoil + and sackage of common persons, if the love and service of so many nations + be despised, so great riches and so mighty an empire refused; I hope her + Majesty will yet take my humble desire and my labour therein in gracious + part, which, if it had not been in respect of her Highness' future honour + and riches, could have laid hands on and ransomed many of the kings and + caciqui of the country, and have had a reasonable proportion of gold for + their redemption. But I have chosen rather to bear the burden of poverty + than reproach; and rather to endure a second travail, and the chances + thereof, than to have defaced an enterprise of so great assurance, until I + knew whether it pleased God to put a disposition in her princely and royal + heart either to follow or forslow (neglect, decline, lose through sloth) + the same. I will therefore leave it to His ordinance that hath only power + in all things; and do humbly pray that your honours will excuse such + errors as, without the defence of art, overrun in every part the following + discourse, in which I have neither studied phrase, form, nor fashion; that + you will be pleased to esteem me as your own, though over dearly bought, + and I shall ever remain ready to do you all honour and service. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0003" id="link2H_4_0003"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + TO THE READER + </h2> + <p> + Because there have been divers opinions conceived of the gold ore brought + from Guiana, and for that an alderman of London and an officer of her + Majesty's mint hath given out that the same is of no price, I have thought + good by the addition of these lines to give answer as well to the said + malicious slander as to other objections. It is true that while we abode + at the island of Trinidad I was informed by an Indian that not far from + the port where we anchored there were found certain mineral stones which + they esteemed to be gold, and were thereunto persuaded the rather for that + they had seen both English and Frenchmen gather and embark some quantities + thereof. Upon this likelihood I sent forty men, and gave order that each + one should bring a stone of that mine, to make trial of the goodness; + which being performed, I assured them at their return that the same was + marcasite, and of no riches or value. Notwithstanding, divers, trusting + more to their own sense than to my opinion, kept of the said marcasite, + and have tried thereof since my return, in divers places. In Guiana itself + I never saw marcasite; but all the rocks, mountains, all stones in the + plains, woods, and by the rivers' sides, are in effect thorough-shining, + and appear marvellous rich; which, being tried to be no marcasite, are the + true signs of rich minerals, but are no other than El madre del oro, as + the Spaniards term them, which is the mother of gold, or, as it is said by + others, the scum of gold. Of divers sorts of these many of my company + brought also into England, every one taking the fairest for the best, + which is not general. For mine own part, I did not countermand any man's + desire or opinion, and I could have afforded them little if I should have + denied them the pleasing of their own fancies therein; but I was resolved + that gold must be found either in grains, separate from the stone, as it + is in most of the rivers in Guiana, or else in a kind of hard stone, which + we call the white spar, of which I saw divers hills, and in sundry places, + but had neither time nor men, nor instruments fit for labour. Near unto + one of the rivers I found of the said white spar or flint a very great + ledge or bank, which I endeavoured to break by all the means I could, + because there appeared on the outside some small grains of gold; but + finding no mean to work the same upon the upper part, seeking the sides + and circuit of the said rock, I found a clift in the same, from whence + with daggers, and with the head of an axe, we got out some small quantity + thereof; of which kind of white stone, wherein gold is engendered, we saw + divers hills and rocks in every part of Guiana wherein we travelled. Of + this there have been made many trials; and in London it was first assayed + by Master Westwood, a refiner dwelling in Wood Street, and it held after + the rate of twelve or thirteen thousand pounds a ton. Another sort was + afterward tried by Master Bulmar, and Master Dimock, assay-master; and it + held after the rate of three and twenty thousand pounds a ton. There was + some of it again tried by Master Palmer, Comptroller of the Mint, and + Master Dimock in Goldsmith's Hall, and it held after six and twenty + thousand and nine hundred pounds a ton. There was also at the same time, + and by the same persons, a trial made of the dust of the said mine; which + held eight pounds and six ounces weight of gold in the hundred. There was + likewise at the same time a trial of an image of copper made in Guiana, + which held a third part of gold, besides divers trials made in the + country, and by others in London. But because there came ill with the + good, and belike the said alderman was not presented with the best, it + hath pleased him therefore to scandal all the rest, and to deface the + enterprise as much as in him lieth. It hath also been concluded by divers + that if there had been any such ore in Guiana, and the same discovered, + that I would have brought home a greater quantity thereof. First, I was + not bound to satisfy any man of the quantity, but only such as adventured, + if any store had been returned thereof; but it is very true that had all + their mountains been of massy gold it was impossible for us to have made + any longer stay to have wrought the same; and whosoever hath seen with + what strength of stone the best gold ore is environed, he will not think + it easy to be had out in heaps, and especially by us, who had neither men, + instruments, nor time, as it is said before, to perform the same. + </p> + <p> + There were on this discovery no less than an hundred persons, who can all + witness that when we passed any branch of the river to view the land + within, and stayed from our boats but six hours, we were driven to wade to + the eyes at our return; and if we attempted the same the day following, it + was impossible either to ford it, or to swim it, both by reason of the + swiftness, and also for that the borders were so pestered with fast woods, + as neither boat nor man could find place either to land or to embark; for + in June, July, August, and September it is impossible to navigate any of + those rivers; for such is the fury of the current, and there are so many + trees and woods overflown, as if any boat but touch upon any tree or stake + it is impossible to save any one person therein. And ere we departed the + land it ran with such swiftness as we drave down, most commonly against + the wind, little less than an hundred miles a day. Besides, our vessels + were no other than wherries, one little barge, a small cock-boat, and a + bad galiota which we framed in haste for that purpose at Trinidad; and + those little boats had nine or ten men apiece, with all their victuals and + arms. It is further true that we were about four hundred miles from our + ships, and had been a month from them, which also we left weakly manned in + an open road, and had promised our return in fifteen days. + </p> + <p> + Others have devised that the same ore was had from Barbary, and that we + carried it with us into Guiana. Surely the singularity of that device I do + not well comprehend. For mine own part, I am not so much in love with + these long voyages as to devise thereby to cozen myself, to lie hard, to + fare worse, to be subjected to perils, to diseases, to ill savours, to be + parched and withered, and withal to sustain the care and labour of such an + enterprise, except the same had more comfort than the fetching of + marcasite in Guiana, or buying of gold ore in Barbary. But I hope the + better sort will judge me by themselves, and that the way of deceit is not + the way of honour or good opinion. I have herein consumed much time, and + many crowns; and I had no other respect or desire than to serve her + Majesty and my country thereby. If the Spanish nation had been of like + belief to these detractors we should little have feared or doubted their + attempts, wherewith we now are daily threatened. But if we now consider of + the actions both of Charles the Fifth, who had the maidenhead of Peru and + the abundant treasures of Atabalipa, together with the affairs of the + Spanish king now living, what territories he hath purchased, what he hath + added to the acts of his predecessors, how many kingdoms he hath + endangered, how many armies, garrisons, and navies he hath, and doth + maintain, the great losses which he hath repaired, as in Eighty-eight + above an hundred sail of great ships with their artillery, and that no + year is less infortunate, but that many vessels, treasures, and people are + devoured, and yet notwithstanding he beginneth again like a storm to + threaten shipwrack to us all; we shall find that these abilities rise not + from the trades of sacks and Seville oranges, nor from aught else that + either Spain, Portugal, or any of his other provinces produce; it is his + Indian gold that endangereth and disturbeth all the nations of Europe; it + purchaseth intelligence, creepeth into counsels, and setteth bound loyalty + at liberty in the greatest monarchies of Europe. If the Spanish king can + keep us from foreign enterprises, and from the impeachment of his trades, + either by offer of invasion, or by besieging us in Britain, Ireland, or + elsewhere, he hath then brought the work of our peril in great + forwardness. + </p> + <p> + Those princes that abound in treasure have great advantages over the rest, + if they once constrain them to a defensive war, where they are driven once + a year or oftener to cast lots for their own garments; and from all such + shall all trades and intercourse be taken away, to the general loss and + impoverishment of the kingdom and commonweal so reduced. Besides, when our + men are constrained to fight, it hath not the like hope as when they are + pressed and encouraged by the desire of spoil and riches. Farther, it is + to be doubted how those that in time of victory seem to affect their + neighbour nations will remain after the first view of misfortunes or ill + success; to trust, also, to the doubtfulness of a battle is but a fearful + and uncertain adventure, seeing therein fortune is as likely to prevail as + virtue. It shall not be necessary to allege all that might be said, and + therefore I will thus conclude; that whatsoever kingdom shall be enforced + to defend itself may be compared to a body dangerously diseased, which for + a season may be preserved with vulgar medicines, but in a short time, and + by little and little, the same must needs fall to the ground and be + dissolved. I have therefore laboured all my life, both according to my + small power and persuasion, to advance all those attempts that might + either promise return of profit to ourselves, or at least be a let and + impeachment to the quiet course and plentiful trades of the Spanish + nation; who, in my weak judgement, by such a war were as easily endangered + and brought from his powerfulness as any prince in Europe, if it be + considered from how many kingdoms and nations his revenues are gathered, + and those so weak in their own beings and so far severed from mutual + succour. But because such a preparation and resolution is not to be hoped + for in haste, and that the time which our enemies embrace cannot be had + again to advantage, I will hope that these provinces, and that empire now + by me discovered, shall suffice to enable her Majesty and the whole + kingdom with no less quantities of treasure than the king of Spain hath in + all the Indies, East and West, which he possesseth; which if the same be + considered and followed, ere the Spaniards enforce the same, and if her + Majesty will undertake it, I will be contented to lose her Highness' + favour and good opinion for ever, and my life withal, if the same be not + found rather to exceed than to equal whatsoever is in this discourse + promised and declared. I will now refer the reader to the following + discourse, with the hope that the perilous and chargeable labours and + endeavours of such as thereby seek the profit and honour of her Majesty, + and the English nation, shall by men of quality and virtue receive such + construction and good acceptance as themselves would like to be rewarded + withal in the like. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0004" id="link2H_4_0004"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + THE DISCOVERY[*] OF GUIANA[+] + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + [*] Exploration + + [+] The name is derived from the Guayano Indians, on the + Orinoco. +</pre> + <p> + On Thursday, the sixth of February, in the year 1595, we departed England, + and the Sunday following had sight of the north cape of Spain, the wind + for the most part continuing prosperous; we passed in sight of the + Burlings, and the Rock, and so onwards for the Canaries, and fell with + Fuerteventura the 17. of the same month, where we spent two or three days, + and relieved our companies with some fresh meat. From thence we coasted by + the Grand Canaria, and so to Teneriffe, and stayed there for the Lion's + Whelp, your Lordship's ship, and for Captain Amyas Preston and the rest. + But when after seven or eight days we found them not, we departed and + directed our course for Trinidad, with mine own ship, and a small barque + of Captain Cross's only; for we had before lost sight of a small galego on + the coast of Spain, which came with us from Plymouth. We arrived at + Trinidad the 22. of March, casting anchor at Point Curiapan, which the + Spaniards call Punta de Gallo, which is situate in eight degrees or + thereabouts. We abode there four or five days, and in all that time we + came not to the speech of any Indian or Spaniard. On the coast we saw a + fire, as we sailed from the Point Carao towards Curiapan, but for fear of + the Spaniards none durst come to speak with us. I myself coasted it in my + barge close aboard the shore and landed in every cove, the better to know + the island, while the ships kept the channel. From Curiapan after a few + days we turned up north-east to recover that place which the Spaniards + call Puerto de los Espanoles (now Port of Spain), and the inhabitants + Conquerabia; and as before, revictualling my barge, I left the ships and + kept by the shore, the better to come to speech with some of the + inhabitants, and also to understand the rivers, watering-places, and ports + of the island, which, as it is rudely done, my purpose is to send your + Lordship after a few days. From Curiapan I came to a port and seat of + Indians called Parico, where we found a fresh water river, but saw no + people. From thence I rowed to another port, called by the naturals Piche, + and by the Spaniards Tierra de Brea. In the way between both were divers + little brooks of fresh water, and one salt river that had store of oysters + upon the branches of the trees, and were very salt and well tasted. All + their oysters grow upon those boughs and sprays, and not on the ground; + the like is commonly seen in other places of the West Indies, and + elsewhere. This tree is described by Andrew Thevet, in his France + Antarctique, and the form figured in the book as a plant very strange; and + by Pliny in his twelfth book of his Natural History. But in this island, + as also in Guiana, there are very many of them. + </p> + <p> + At this point, called Tierra de Brea or Piche, there is that abundance of + stone pitch that all the ships of the world may be therewith laden from + thence; and we made trial of it in trimming our ships to be most excellent + good, and melteth not with the sun as the pitch of Norway, and therefore + for ships trading the south parts very profitable. From thence we went to + the mountain foot called Annaperima, and so passing the river Carone, on + which the Spanish city was seated, we met with our ships at Puerto de los + Espanoles or Conquerabia. + </p> + <p> + This island of Trinidad hath the form of a sheephook, and is but narrow; + the north part is very mountainous; the soil is very excellent, and will + bear sugar, ginger, or any other commodity that the Indies yield. It hath + store of deer, wild porks, fruit, fish, and fowl; it hath also for bread + sufficient maize, cassavi, and of those roots and fruits which are common + everywhere in the West Indies. It hath divers beasts which the Indies have + not; the Spaniards confessed that they found grains of gold in some of the + rivers; but they having a purpose to enter Guiana, the magazine of all + rich metals, cared not to spend time in the search thereof any further. + This island is called by the people thereof Cairi, and in it are divers + nations. Those about Parico are called Jajo, those at Punta de Carao are + of the Arwacas (Arawaks) and between Carao and Curiapan they are called + Salvajos. Between Carao and Punta de Galera are the Nepojos, and those + about the Spanish city term themselves Carinepagotes (Carib-people). Of + the rest of the nations, and of other ports and rivers, I leave to speak + here, being impertinent to my purpose, and mean to describe them as they + are situate in the particular plot and description of the island, three + parts whereof I coasted with my barge, that I might the better describe + it. + </p> + <p> + Meeting with the ships at Puerto de los Espanoles, we found at the + landing-place a company of Spaniards who kept a guard at the descent; and + they offering a sign of peace, I sent Captain Whiddon to speak with them, + whom afterwards to my great grief I left buried in the said island after + my return from Guiana, being a man most honest and valiant. The Spaniards + seemed to be desirous to trade with us, and to enter into terms of peace, + more for doubt of their own strength than for aught else; and in the end, + upon pledge, some of them came aboard. The same evening there stale also + aboard us in a small canoa two Indians, the one of them being a cacique or + lord of the people, called Cantyman, who had the year before been with + Captain Whiddon, and was of his acquaintance. By this Cantyman we + understood what strength the Spaniards had, how far it was to their city, + and of Don Antonio de Berreo, the governor, who was said to be slain in + his second attempt of Guiana, but was not. + </p> + <p> + While we remained at Puerto de los Espanoles some Spaniards came aboard us + to buy linen of the company, and such other things as they wanted, and + also to view our ships and company, all which I entertained kindly and + feasted after our manner. By means whereof I learned of one and another as + much of the estate of Guiana as I could, or as they knew; for those poor + soldiers having been many years without wine, a few draughts made them + merry, in which mood they vaunted of Guiana and the riches thereof, and + all what they knew of the ways and passages; myself seeming to purpose + nothing less than the entrance or discovery thereof, but bred in them an + opinion that I was bound only for the relief of those English which I had + planted in Virginia, whereof the bruit was come among them; which I had + performed in my return, if extremity of weather had not forced me from the + said coast. + </p> + <p> + I found occasions of staying in this place for two causes. The one was to + be revenged of Berreo, who the year before, 1594, had betrayed eight of + Captain Whiddon's men, and took them while he departed from them to seek + the Edward Bonaventure, which arrived at Trinidad the day before from the + East Indies: in whose absence Berreo sent a canoa aboard the pinnace only + with Indians and dogs inviting the company to go with them into the woods + to kill a deer. Who like wise men, in the absence of their captain + followed the Indians, but were no sooner one arquebus shot from the shore, + but Berreo's soldiers lying in ambush had them all, notwithstanding that + he had given his word to Captain Whiddon that they should take water and + wood safely. The other cause of my stay was, for that by discourse with + the Spaniards I daily learned more and more of Guiana, of the rivers and + passages, and of the enterprise of Berreo, by what means or fault he + failed, and how he meant to prosecute the same. + </p> + <p> + While we thus spent the time I was assured by another cacique of the north + side of the island, that Berreo had sent to Margarita and Cumana for + soldiers, meaning to have given me a cassado (blow) at parting, if it had + been possible. For although he had given order through all the island that + no Indian should come aboard to trade with me upon pain of hanging and + quartering (having executed two of them for the same, which I afterwards + found), yet every night there came some with most lamentable complaints of + his cruelty: how he had divided the island and given to every soldier a + part; that he made the ancient caciques, which were lords of the country, + to be their slaves; that he kept them in chains, and dropped their naked + bodies with burning bacon, and such other torments, which I found + afterwards to be true. For in the city, after I entered the same, there + were five of the lords or little kings, which they call caciques in the + West Indies, in one chain, almost dead of famine, and wasted with + torments. These are called in their own language acarewana, and now of + late since English, French, and Spanish, are come among them, they call + themselves captains, because they perceive that the chiefest of every ship + is called by that name. Those five captains in the chain were called + Wannawanare, Carroaori, Maquarima, Tarroopanama, and Aterima. So as both + to be revenged of the former wrong, as also considering that to enter + Guiana by small boats, to depart 400 or 500 miles from my ships, and to + leave a garrison in my back interested in the same enterprise, who also + daily expected supplies out of Spain, I should have savoured very much of + the ass; and therefore taking a time of most advantage, I set upon the + Corps du garde in the evening, and having put them to the sword, sent + Captain Caulfield onwards with sixty soldiers, and myself followed with + forty more, and so took their new city, which they called St. Joseph, by + break of day. They abode not any fight after a few shot, and all being + dismissed, but only Berreo and his companion (the Portuguese captain + Alvaro Jorge), I brought them with me aboard, and at the instance of the + Indians I set their new city of St. Joseph on fire. The same day arrived + Captain George Gifford with your lordship's ship, and Captain Keymis, whom + I lost on the coast of Spain, with the galego, and in them divers + gentlemen and others, which to our little army was a great comfort and + supply. + </p> + <p> + We then hasted away towards our purposed discovery, and first I called all + the captains of the island together that were enemies to the Spaniards; + for there were some which Berreo had brought out of other countries, and + planted there to eat out and waste those that were natural of the place. + And by my Indian interpreter, which I carried out of England, I made them + understand that I was the servant of a queen who was the great cacique of + the north, and a virgin, and had more caciqui under her than there were + trees in that island; that she was an enemy to the Castellani in respect + of their tyranny and oppression, and that she delivered all such nations + about her, as were by them oppressed; and having freed all the coast of + the northern world from their servitude, had sent me to free them also, + and withal to defend the country of Guiana from their invasion and + conquest. I shewed them her Majesty's picture, which they so admired and + honoured, as it had been easy to have brought them idolatrous thereof. The + like and a more large discourse I made to the rest of the nations, both in + my passing to Guiana and to those of the borders, so as in that part of + the world her Majesty is very famous and admirable; whom they now call + EZRABETA CASSIPUNA AQUEREWANA, which is as much as 'Elizabeth, the Great + Princess, or Greatest Commander.' This done, we left Puerto de los + Espanoles, and returned to Curiapan, and having Berreo my prisoner, I + gathered from him as much of Guiana as he knew. This Berreo is a gentleman + well descended, and had long served the Spanish king in Milan, Naples, the + Low Countries, and elsewhere, very valiant and liberal, and a gentleman of + great assuredness, and of a great heart. I used him according to his + estate and worth in all things I could, according to the small means I + had. + </p> + <p> + I sent Captain Whiddon the year before to get what knowledge he could of + Guiana: and the end of my journey at this time was to discover and enter + the same. But my intelligence was far from truth, for the country is + situate about 600 English miles further from the sea than I was made + believe it had been. Which afterwards understanding to be true by Berreo, + I kept it from the knowledge of my company, who else would never have been + brought to attempt the same. Of which 600 miles I passed 400, leaving my + ships so far from me at anchor in the sea, which was more of desire to + perform that discovery than of reason, especially having such poor and + weak vessels to transport ourselves in. For in the bottom of an old galego + which I caused to be fashioned like a galley, and in one barge, two + wherries, and a ship-boat of the Lion's Whelp, we carried 100 persons and + their victuals for a month in the same, being all driven to lie in the + rain and weather in the open air, in the burning sun, and upon the hard + boards, and to dress our meat, and to carry all manner of furniture in + them. Wherewith they were so pestered and unsavoury, that what with + victuals being most fish, with the wet clothes of so many men thrust + together, and the heat of the sun, I will undertake there was never any + prison in England that could be found more unsavoury and loathsome, + especially to myself, who had for many years before been dieted and cared + for in a sort far more differing. + </p> + <p> + If Captain Preston had not been persuaded that he should have come too + late to Trinidad to have found us there (for the month was expired which I + promised to tarry for him there ere he could recover the coast of Spain) + but that it had pleased God he might have joined with us, and that we had + entered the country but some ten days sooner ere the rivers were + overflown, we had adventured either to have gone to the great city of + Manoa, or at least taken so many of the other cities and towns nearer at + hand, as would have made a royal return. But it pleased not God so much to + favour me at this time. If it shall be my lot to prosecute the same, I + shall willingly spend my life therein. And if any else shall be enabled + thereunto, and conquer the same, I assure him thus much; he shall perform + more than ever was done in Mexico by Cortes, or in Peru by Pizarro, + whereof the one conquered the empire of Mutezuma, the other of Guascar and + Atabalipa. And whatsoever prince shall possess it, that prince shall be + lord of more gold, and of a more beautiful empire, and of more cities and + people, than either the king of Spain or the Great Turk. + </p> + <p> + But because there may arise many doubts, and how this empire of Guiana is + become so populous, and adorned with so many great cities, towns, temples, + and treasures, I thought good to make it known, that the emperor now + reigning is descended from those magnificent princes of Peru, of whose + large territories, of whose policies, conquests, edifices, and riches, + Pedro de Cieza, Francisco Lopez, and others have written large discourses. + For when Francisco Pizarro, Diego Almagro and others conquered the said + empire of Peru, and had put to death Atabalipa, son to Guayna Capac, which + Atabalipa had formerly caused his eldest brother Guascar to be slain, one + of the younger sons of Guayna Capac fled out of Peru, and took with him + many thousands of those soldiers of the empire called orejones ("having + large ears," the name given by the Spaniards to the Peruvian warriors, who + wore ear-pendants), and with those and many others which followed him, he + vanquished all that tract and valley of America which is situate between + the great river of Amazons and Baraquan, otherwise called Orenoque and + Maranon (Baraquan is the alternative name to Orenoque, Maranon to + Amazons). + </p> + <p> + The empire of Guiana is directly east from Peru towards the sea, and lieth + under the equinoctial line; and it hath more abundance of gold than any + part of Peru, and as many or more great cities than ever Peru had when it + flourished most. It is governed by the same laws, and the emperor and + people observe the same religion, and the same form and policies in + government as were used in Peru, not differing in any part. And I have + been assured by such of the Spaniards as have seen Manoa, the imperial + city of Guiana, which the Spaniards call El Dorado, that for the + greatness, for the riches, and for the excellent seat, it far exceedeth + any of the world, at least of so much of the world as is known to the + Spanish nation. It is founded upon a lake of salt water of 200 leagues + long, like unto Mare Caspium. And if we compare it to that of Peru, and + but read the report of Francisco Lopez and others, it will seem more than + credible; and because we may judge of the one by the other, I thought good + to insert part of the 120. chapter of Lopez in his General History of the + Indies, wherein he describeth the court and magnificence of Guayna Capac, + ancestor to the emperor of Guiana, whose very words are these:— + </p> + <p> + "Todo el servicio de su casa, mesa, y cocina era de oro y de plata, y + cuando menos de plata y cobre, por mas recio. Tenia en su recamara + estatuas huecas de oro, que parescian gigantes, y las figuras al propio y + tamano de cuantos animales, aves, arboles, y yerbas produce la tierra, y + de cuantos peces cria la mar y agua de sus reynos. Tenia asimesmo sogas, + costales, cestas, y troxes de oro y plata; rimeros de palos de oro, que + pareciesen lena rajada para quemar. En fin no habia cosa en su tierra, que + no la tuviese de oro contrahecha; y aun dizen, que tenian los Ingas un + verjel en una isla cerca de la Puna, donde se iban a holgar, cuando + querian mar, que tenia la hortaliza, las flores, y arboles de oro y plata; + invencion y grandeza hasta entonces nunca vista. Allende de todo esto, + tenia infinitisima cantidad de plata y oro por labrar en el Cuzco, que se + perdio por la muerte de Guascar; ca los Indios lo escondieron, viendo que + los Espanoles se lo tomaban, y enviaban a Espana." + </p> + <p> + That is, "All the vessels of his house, table, and kitchen, were of gold + and silver, and the meanest of silver and copper for strength and hardness + of metal. He had in his wardrobe hollow statues of gold which seemed + giants, and the figures in proportion and bigness of all the beasts, + birds, trees, and herbs, that the earth bringeth forth; and of all the + fishes that the sea or waters of his kingdom breedeth. He had also ropes, + budgets, chests, and troughs of gold and silver, heaps of billets of gold, + that seemed wood marked out (split into logs) to burn. Finally, there was + nothing in his country whereof he had not the counterfeit in gold. Yea, + and they say, the Ingas had a garden of pleasure in an island near Puna, + where they went to recreate themselves, when they would take the air of + the sea, which had all kinds of garden-herbs, flowers, and trees of gold + and silver; an invention and magnificence till then never seen. Besides + all this, he had an infinite quantity of silver and gold unwrought in + Cuzco, which was lost by the death of Guascar, for the Indians hid it, + seeing that the Spaniards took it, and sent it into Spain." + </p> + <p> + And in the 117. chapter; Francisco Pizarro caused the gold and silver of + Atabalipa to be weighed after he had taken it, which Lopez setteth down in + these words following:—"Hallaron cincuenta y dos mil marcos de buena + plata, y un millon y trecientos y veinte y seis mil y quinientos pesos de + oro." Which is, "They found 52,000 marks of good silver, and 1,326,500 + pesos of gold." Now, although these reports may seem strange, yet if we + consider the many millions which are daily brought out of Peru into Spain, + we may easily believe the same. For we find that by the abundant treasure + of that country the Spanish king vexes all the princes of Europe, and is + become, in a few years, from a poor king of Castile, the greatest monarch + of this part of the world, and likely every day to increase if other + princes forslow the good occasions offered, and suffer him to add this + empire to the rest, which by far exceedeth all the rest. If his gold now + endanger us, he will then be unresistible. Such of the Spaniards as + afterwards endeavoured the conquest thereof, whereof there have been many, + as shall be declared hereafter, thought that this Inga, of whom this + emperor now living is descended, took his way by the river of Amazons, by + that branch which is called Papamene (The Papamene is a tributary not of + the Amazon river but of the Meta, one of the principal tributaries of the + Orinoco). For by that way followed Orellana, by the commandment of Gonzalo + Pizarro, in the year 1542, whose name the river also beareth this day. + Which is also by others called Maranon, although Andrew Thevet doth affirm + that between Maranon and Amazons there are 120 leagues; but sure it is + that those rivers have one head and beginning, and the Maranon, which + Thevet describeth, is but a branch of Amazons or Orellana, of which I will + speak more in another place. It was attempted by Ordas; but it is now + little less than 70 years since that Diego Ordas, a Knight of the Order of + Santiago, attempted the same; and it was in the year 1542 that Orellana + discovered the river of Amazons; but the first that ever saw Manoa was + Juan Martinez, master of the munition to Ordas. At a port called Morequito + (probably San Miguel), in Guiana, there lieth at this day a great anchor + of Ordas his ship. And this port is some 300 miles within the land, upon + the great river of Orenoque. I rested at this port four days, twenty days + after I left the ships at Curiapan. + </p> + <p> + The relation of this Martinez, who was the first that discovered Manoa, + his success, and end, is to be seen in the Chancery of St. Juan de Puerto + Rico, whereof Berreo had a copy, which appeared to be the greatest + encouragement as well to Berreo as to others that formerly attempted the + discovery and conquest. Orellana, after he failed of the discovery of + Guiana by the said river of Amazons, passed into Spain, and there obtained + a patent of the king for the invasion and conquest, but died by sea about + the islands; and his fleet being severed by tempest, the action for that + time proceeded not. Diego Ordas followed the enterprise, and departed + Spain with 600 soldiers and thirty horse. Who, arriving on the coast of + Guiana, was slain in a mutiny, with the most part of such as favoured him, + as also of the rebellious part, insomuch as his ships perished and few or + none returned; neither was it certainly known what became of the said + Ordas until Berreo found the anchor of his ship in the river of Orenoque; + but it was supposed, and so it is written by Lopez, that he perished on + the seas, and of other writers diversely conceived and reported. And + hereof it came that Martinez entered so far within the land, and arrived + at that city of Inga the emperor; for it chanced that while Ordas with his + army rested at the port of Morequito (who was either the first or second + that attempted Guiana), by some negligence the whole store of powder + provided for the service was set on fire, and Martinez, having the chief + charge, was condemned by the General Ordas to be executed forthwith. + Martinez, being much favoured by the soldiers, had all the means possible + procured for his life; but it could not be obtained in other sort than + this, that he should be set into a canoa alone, without any victual, only + with his arms, and so turned loose into the great river. But it pleased + God that the canoa was carried down the stream, and certain of the + Guianians met it the same evening; and, having not at any time seen any + Christian nor any man of that colour, they carried Martinez into the land + to be wondered at, and so from town to town, until he came to the great + city of Manoa, the seat and residence of Inga the emperor. The emperor, + after he had beheld him, knew him to be a Christian, for it was not long + before that his brethren Guascar and Atabalipa were vanquished by the + Spaniards in Peru: and caused him to be lodged in his palace, and well + entertained. He lived seven months in Manoa, but was not suffered to + wander into the country anywhere. He was also brought thither all the way + blindfold, led by the Indians, until he came to the entrance of Manoa + itself, and was fourteen or fifteen days in the passage. He avowed at his + death that he entered the city at noon, and then they uncovered his face; + and that he travelled all that day till night through the city, and the + next day from sun rising to sun setting, ere he came to the palace of + Inga. After that Martinez had lived seven months in Manoa, and began to + understand the language of the country, Inga asked him whether he desired + to return into his own country, or would willingly abide with him. But + Martinez, not desirous to stay, obtained the favour of Inga to depart; + with whom he sent divers Guianians to conduct him to the river of + Orenoque, all loaden with as much gold as they could carry, which he gave + to Martinez at his departure. But when he was arrived near the river's + side, the borderers which are called Orenoqueponi (poni is a Carib + postposition meaning "on") robbed him and his Guianians of all the + treasure (the borderers being at that time at wars, which Inga had not + conquered) save only of two great bottles of gourds, which were filled + with beads of gold curiously wrought, which those Orenoqueponi thought had + been no other thing than his drink or meat, or grain for food, with which + Martinez had liberty to pass. And so in canoas he fell down from the river + of Orenoque to Trinidad, and from thence to Margarita, and so to St. Juan + del Puerto Rico; where, remaining a long time for passage into Spain, he + died. In the time of his extreme sickness, and when he was without hope of + life, receiving the sacrament at the hands of his confessor, he delivered + these things, with the relation of his travels, and also called for his + calabazas or gourds of the gold beads, which he gave to the church and + friars, to be prayed for. + </p> + <p> + This Martinez was he that christened the city of Manoa by the name of El + Dorado, and, as Berreo informed me, upon this occasion, those Guianians, + and also the borderers, and all other in that tract which I have seen, are + marvellous great drunkards; in which vice I think no nation can compare + with them; and at the times of their solemn feasts, when the emperor + carouseth with his captains, tributaries, and governors, the manner is + thus. All those that pledge him are first stripped naked and their bodies + anointed all over with a kind of white balsamum (by them called curca), of + which there is great plenty, and yet very dear amongst them, and it is of + all other the most precious, whereof we have had good experience. When + they are anointed all over, certain servants of the emperor, having + prepared gold made into fine powder, blow it through hollow canes upon + their naked bodies, until they be all shining from the foot to the head; + and in this sort they sit drinking by twenties and hundreds, and continue + in drunkenness sometimes six or seven days together. The same is also + confirmed by a letter written into Spain which was intercepted, which + Master Robert Dudley told me he had seen. Upon this sight, and for the + abundance of gold which he saw in the city, the images of gold in their + temples, the plates, armours, and shields of gold which they use in the + wars, he called it El Dorado. + </p> + <p> + After the death of Ordas and Martinez, and after Orellana, who was + employed by Gonzalo Pizarro, one Pedro de Orsua, a knight of Navarre, + attempted Guiana, taking his way into Peru, and built his brigandines upon + a river called Oia, which riseth to the southward of Quito, and is very + great. This river falleth into Amazons, by which Orsua with his companies + descended, and came out of that province which is called Motilones + ("friars"—Indians so named from their cropped heads); and it seemeth + to me that this empire is reserved for her Majesty and the English nation, + by reason of the hard success which all these and other Spaniards found in + attempting the same, whereof I will speak briefly, though impertinent in + some sort to my purpose. This Pedro de Orsua had among his troops a + Biscayan called Aguirre, a man meanly born, who bare no other office than + a sergeant or alferez (al-faris, Arab.—horseman, mounted officer): + but after certain months, when the soldiers were grieved with travels and + consumed with famine, and that no entrance could be found by the branches + or body of Amazons, this Aguirre raised a mutiny, of which he made himself + the head, and so prevailed as he put Orsua to the sword and all his + followers, taking on him the whole charge and commandment, with a purpose + not only to make himself emperor of Guiana, but also of Peru and of all + that side of the West Indies. He had of his party 700 soldiers, and of + those many promised to draw in other captains and companies, to deliver up + towns and forts in Peru; but neither finding by the said river any passage + into Guiana, nor any possibility to return towards Peru by the same + Amazons, by reason that the descent of the river made so great a current, + he was enforced to disemboque at the mouth of the said Amazons, which + cannot be less than 1,000 leagues from the place where they embarked. From + thence he coasted the land till he arrived at Margarita to the north of + Mompatar, which is at this day called Puerto de Tyranno, for that he there + slew Don Juan de Villa Andreda, Governor of Margarita, who was father to + Don Juan Sarmiento, Governor of Margarita when Sir John Burgh landed there + and attempted the island. Aguirre put to the sword all other in the island + that refused to be of his party, and took with him certain cimarrones + (fugitive slaves) and other desperate companions. From thence he went to + Cumana and there slew the governor, and dealt in all as at Margarita. He + spoiled all the coast of Caracas and the province of Venezuela and of Rio + de la Hacha; and, as I remember, it was the same year that Sir John + Hawkins sailed to St. Juan de Ullua in the Jesus of Lubeck; for himself + told me that he met with such a one upon the coast, that rebelled, and had + sailed down all the river of Amazons. Aguirre from thence landed about + Santa Marta and sacked it also, putting to death so many as refused to be + his followers, purposing to invade Nuevo Reyno de Granada and to sack + Pamplona, Merida, Lagrita, Tunja, and the rest of the cities of Nuevo + Reyno, and from thence again to enter Peru; but in a fight in the said + Nuevo Reyno he was overthrown, and, finding no way to escape, he first put + to the sword his own children, foretelling them that they should not live + to be defamed or upbraided by the Spaniards after his death, who would + have termed them the children of a traitor or tyrant; and that, sithence + he could not make them princes, he would yet deliver them from shame and + reproach. These were the ends and tragedies of Ordas, Martinez, Orellana, + Orsua, and Aguirre. Also soon after Ordas followed Jeronimo Ortal de + Saragosa, with 130 soldiers; who failing his entrance by sea, was cast + with the current on the coast of Paria, and peopled about S. Miguel de + Neveri. It was then attempted by Don Pedro de Silva, a Portuguese of the + family of Ruy Gomez de Silva, and by the favour which Ruy Gomez had with + the king he was set out. But he also shot wide of the mark; for being + departed from Spain with his fleet, he entered by Maranon or Amazons, + where by the nations of the river and by the Amazons, he was utterly + overthrown, and himself and all his army defeated; only seven escaped, and + of those but two returned. + </p> + <p> + After him came Pedro Hernandez de Serpa, and landed at Cumana, in the West + Indies, taking his journey by land towards Orenoque, which may be some 120 + leagues; but ere he came to the borders of the said river, he was set upon + by a nation of the Indians, called Wikiri, and overthrown in such sort, + that of 300 soldiers, horsemen, many Indians, and negroes, there returned + but eighteen. Others affirm that he was defeated in the very entrance of + Guiana, at the first civil town of the empire called Macureguarai. Captain + Preston, in taking Santiago de Leon (which was by him and his companies + very resolutely performed, being a great town, and far within the land) + held a gentleman prisoner, who died in his ship, that was one of the + company of Hernandez de Serpa, and saved among those that escaped; who + witnessed what opinion is held among the Spaniards thereabouts of the + great riches of Guiana, and El Dorado, the city of Inga. Another Spaniard + was brought aboard me by Captain Preston, who told me in the hearing of + himself and divers other gentlemen, that he met with Berreo's campmaster + at Caracas, when he came from the borders of Guiana, and that he saw with + him forty of most pure plates of gold, curiously wrought, and swords of + Guiana decked and inlaid with gold, feathers garnished with gold, and + divers rarities, which he carried to the Spanish king. + </p> + <p> + After Hernandez de Serpa, it was undertaken by the Adelantado, Don + Gonzalez Ximenes de Quesada, who was one of the chiefest in the conquest + of Nuevo Reyno, whose daughter and heir Don Antonio de Berreo married. + Gonzalez sought the passage also by the river called Papamene, which + riseth by Quito, in Peru, and runneth south-east 100 leagues, and then + falleth into Amazons. But he also, failing the entrance, returned with the + loss of much labour and cost. I took one Captain George, a Spaniard, that + followed Gonzalez in this enterprise. Gonzalez gave his daughter to + Berreo, taking his oath and honour to follow the enterprise to the last of + his substance and life. Who since, as he hath sworn to me, hath spent + 300,000 ducats in the same, and yet never could enter so far into the land + as myself with that poor troop, or rather a handful of men, being in all + about 100 gentlemen, soldiers, rowers, boat-keepers, boys, and of all + sorts; neither could any of the forepassed undertakers, nor Berreo + himself, discover the country, till now lately by conference with an + ancient king, called Carapana (Caribana, Carib land, was an old European + name for the Atlantic coast near the mouth of the Orinoco, and hence was + applied to one of its chiefs. Berrio called this district "Emeria"), he + got the true light thereof. For Berreo came about 1,500 miles ere he + understood aught, or could find any passage or entrance into any part + thereof; yet he had experience of all these fore-named, and divers others, + and was persuaded of their errors and mistakings. Berreo sought it by the + river Cassanar, which falleth into a great river called Pato: Pato falleth + into Meta, and Meta into Baraquan, which is also called Orenoque. He took + his journey from Nuevo Reyno de Granada, where he dwelt, having the + inheritance of Gonzalez Ximenes in those parts; he was followed with 700 + horse, he drove with him 1,000 head of cattle, he had also many women, + Indians, and slaves. How all these rivers cross and encounter, how the + country lieth and is bordered, the passage of Ximenes and Berreo, mine own + discovery, and the way that I entered, with all the rest of the nations + and rivers, your lordship shall receive in a large chart or map, which I + have not yet finished, and which I shall most humbly pray your lordship to + secrete, and not to suffer it to pass your own hands; for by a draught + thereof all may be prevented by other nations; for I know it is this very + year sought by the French, although by the way that they now take, I fear + it not much. It was also told me ere I departed England, that Villiers, + the Admiral, was in preparation for the planting of Amazons, to which + river the French have made divers voyages, and returned much gold and + other rarities. I spake with a captain of a French ship that came from + thence, his ship riding in Falmouth the same year that my ships came first + from Virginia; there was another this year in Helford, that also came from + thence, and had been fourteen months at an anchor in Amazons; which were + both very rich. + </p> + <p> + Although, as I am persuaded, Guiana cannot be entered that way, yet no + doubt the trade of gold from thence passeth by branches of rivers into the + river of Amazons, and so it doth on every hand far from the country + itself; for those Indians of Trinidad have plates of gold from Guiana, and + those cannibals of Dominica which dwell in the islands by which our ships + pass yearly to the West Indies, also the Indians of Paria, those Indians + called Tucaris, Chochi, Apotomios, Cumanagotos, and all those other + nations inhabiting near about the mountains that run from Paria through + the province of Venezuela, and in Maracapana, and the cannibals of + Guanipa, the Indians called Assawai, Coaca, Ajai, and the rest (all which + shall be described in my description as they are situate) have plates of + gold of Guiana. And upon the river of Amazons, Thevet writeth that the + people wear croissants of gold, for of that form the Guianians most + commonly make them; so as from Dominica to Amazons, which is above 250 + leagues, all the chief Indians in all parts wear of those plates of + Guiana. Undoubtedly those that trade Amazons return much gold, which (as + is aforesaid) cometh by trade from Guiana, by some branch of a river that + falleth from the country into Amazons, and either it is by the river which + passeth by the nations called Tisnados, or by Caripuna. + </p> + <p> + I made enquiry amongst the most ancient and best travelled of the + Orenoqueponi, and I had knowledge of all the rivers between Orenoque and + Amazons, and was very desirous to understand the truth of those warlike + women, because of some it is believed, of others not. And though I digress + from my purpose, yet I will set down that which hath been delivered me for + truth of those women, and I spake with a cacique, or lord of people, that + told me he had been in the river, and beyond it also. The nations of these + women are on the south side of the river in the provinces of Topago, and + their chiefest strengths and retracts are in the islands situate on the + south side of the entrance, some 60 leagues within the mouth of the said + river. The memories of the like women are very ancient as well in Africa + as in Asia. In Africa those that had Medusa for queen; others in Scythia, + near the rivers of Tanais and Thermodon. We find, also, that Lampedo and + Marthesia were queens of the Amazons. In many histories they are verified + to have been, and in divers ages and provinces; but they which are not far + from Guiana do accompany with men but once in a year, and for the time of + one month, which I gather by their relation, to be in April; and that time + all kings of the borders assemble, and queens of the Amazons; and after + the queens have chosen, the rest cast lots for their valentines. This one + month they feast, dance, and drink of their wines in abundance; and the + moon being done they all depart to their own provinces. They are said to + be very cruel and bloodthirsty, especially to such as offer to invade + their territories. These Amazons have likewise great store of these plates + of gold, which they recover by exchange chiefly for a kind of green + stones, which the Spaniards call piedras hijadas, and we use for + spleen-stones (stones reduced to powder and taken internally to cure + maladies of the spleen); and for the disease of the stone we also esteem + them. Of these I saw divers in Guiana; and commonly every king or cacique + hath one, which their wives for the most part wear, and they esteem them + as great jewels. + </p> + <p> + But to return to the enterprise of Berreo, who, as I have said, departed + from Nuevo Reyno with 700 horse, besides the provisions above rehearsed. + He descended by the river called Cassanar, which riseth in Nuevo Reyno out + of the mountains by the city of Tunja, from which mountain also springeth + Pato; both which fall into the great river of Meta, and Meta riseth from a + mountain joining to Pamplona, in the same Nuevo Reyno de Granada. These, + as also Guaiare, which issueth out of the mountains by Timana, fall all + into Baraquan, and are but of his heads; for at their coming together they + lose their names, and Baraquan farther down is also rebaptized by the name + of Orenoque. On the other side of the city and hills of Timana riseth Rio + Grande, which falleth into the sea by Santa Marta. By Cassanar first, and + so into Meta, Berreo passed, keeping his horsemen on the banks, where the + country served them for to march; and where otherwise, he was driven to + embark them in boats which he builded for the purpose, and so came with + the current down the river of Meta, and so into Baraquan. After he entered + that great and mighty river, he began daily to lose of his companies both + men and horse; for it is in many places violently swift, and hath forcible + eddies, many sands, and divers islands sharp pointed with rocks. But after + one whole year, journeying for the most part by river, and the rest by + land, he grew daily to fewer numbers; from both by sickness, and by + encountering with the people of those regions through which he travelled, + his companies were much wasted, especially by divers encounters with the + Amapaians (Amapaia was Berrio's name for the Orinoco valley above the + Caura river). And in all this time he never could learn of any passage + into Guiana, nor any news or fame thereof, until he came to a further + border of the said Amapaia, eight days' journey from the river Caroli (the + Caroni river, the first great affluent of the Orinoco on the south, about + 180 miles from the sea), which was the furthest river that he entered. + Among those of Amapaia, Guiana was famous; but few of these people + accosted Berreo, or would trade with him the first three months of the six + which he sojourned there. This Amapaia is also marvellous rich in gold, as + both Berreo confessed and those of Guiana with whom I had most conference; + and is situate upon Orenoque also. In this country Berreo lost sixty of + his best soldiers, and most of all his horse that remained in his former + year's travel. But in the end, after divers encounters with those nations, + they grew to peace, and they presented Berreo with ten images of fine gold + among divers other plates and croissants, which, as he sware to me, and + divers other gentlemen, were so curiously wrought, as he had not seen the + like either in Italy, Spain, or the Low Countries; and he was resolved + that when they came to the hands of the Spanish king, to whom he had sent + them by his camp-master, they would appear very admirable, especially + being wrought by such a nation as had no iron instruments at all, nor any + of those helps which our goldsmiths have to work withal. The particular + name of the people in Amapaia which gave him these pieces, are called + Anebas, and the river of Orenoque at that place is about twelve English + miles broad, which may be from his outfall into the sea 700 or 800 miles. + </p> + <p> + This province of Amapaia is a very low and a marish ground near the river; + and by reason of the red water which issueth out in small branches through + the fenny and boggy ground, there breed divers poisonful worms and + serpents. And the Spaniards not suspecting, nor in any sort foreknowing + the danger, were infected with a grievous kind of flux by drinking + thereof, and even the very horses poisoned therewith; insomuch as at the + end of the six months that they abode there, of all their troops there + were not left above 120 soldiers, and neither horse nor cattle. For Berreo + hoped to have found Guiana be 1,000 miles nearer than it fell out to be in + the end; by means whereof they sustained much want, and much hunger, + oppressed with grievous diseases, and all the miseries that could be + imagined. I demanded of those in Guiana that had travelled Amapaia, how + they lived with that tawny or red water when they travelled thither; and + they told me that after the sun was near the middle of the sky, they used + to fill their pots and pitchers with that water, but either before that + time or towards the setting of the sun it was dangerous to drink of, and + in the night strong poison. I learned also of divers other rivers of that + nature among them, which were also, while the sun was in the meridian, + very safe to drink, and in the morning, evening, and night, wonderful + dangerous and infective. From this province Berreo hasted away as soon as + the spring and beginning of summer appeared, and sought his entrance on + the borders of Orenoque on the south side; but there ran a ledge of so + high and impassable mountains, as he was not able by any means to march + over them, continuing from the east sea into which Orenoque falleth, even + to Quito in Peru. Neither had he means to carry victual or munition over + those craggy, high, and fast hills, being all woody, and those so thick + and spiny, and so full or prickles, thorns, and briars, as it is + impossible to creep through them. He had also neither friendship among the + people, nor any interpreter to persuade or treat with them; and more, to + his disadvantage, the caciques and kings of Amapaia had given knowledge of + his purpose to the Guianians, and that he sought to sack and conquer the + empire, for the hope of their so great abundance and quantities of gold. + He passed by the mouths of many great rivers which fell into Orenoque both + from the north and south, which I forbear to name, for tediousness, and + because they are more pleasing in describing than reading. + </p> + <p> + Berreo affirmed that there fell an hundred rivers into Orenoque from the + north and south: whereof the least was as big as Rio Grande (the + Magdalena), that passed between Popayan and Nuevo Reyno de Granada, Rio + Grande being esteemed one of the renowned rivers in all the West Indies, + and numbered among the great rivers of the world. But he knew not the + names of any of these, but Caroli only; neither from what nations they + descended, neither to what provinces they led, for he had no means to + discourse with the inhabitants at any time; neither was he curious in + these things, being utterly unlearned, and not knowing the east from the + west. But of all these I got some knowledge, and of many more, partly by + mine own travel, and the rest by conference; of some one I learned one, of + others the rest, having with me an Indian that spake many languages, and + that of Guiana (the Carib) naturally. I sought out all the aged men, and + such as were greatest travellers. And by the one and the other I came to + understand the situations, the rivers, the kingdoms from the east sea to + the borders of Peru, and from Orenoque southward as far as Amazons or + Maranon, and the regions of Marinatambal (north coasts of Brazil), and of + all the kings of provinces, and captains of towns and villages, how they + stood in terms of peace or war, and which were friends or enemies the one + with the other; without which there can be neither entrance nor conquest + in those parts, nor elsewhere. For by the dissension between Guascar and + Atabalipa, Pizarro conquered Peru, and by the hatred that the Tlaxcallians + bare to Mutezuma, Cortes was victorious over Mexico; without which both + the one and the other had failed of their enterprise, and of the great + honour and riches which they attained unto. + </p> + <p> + Now Berreo began to grow into despair, and looked for no other success + than his predecessor in this enterprise; until such time as he arrived at + the province of Emeria towards the east sea and mouth of the river, where + he found a nation of people very favourable, and the country full of all + manner of victual. The king of this land is called Carapana, a man very + wise, subtle, and of great experience, being little less than an hundred + years old. In his youth he was sent by his father into the island of + Trinidad, by reason of civil war among themselves, and was bred at a + village in that island, called Parico. At that place in his youth he had + seen many Christians, both French and Spanish, and went divers times with + the Indians of Trinidad to Margarita and Cumana, in the West Indies, for + both those places have ever been relieved with victual from Trinidad: by + reason whereof he grew of more understanding, and noted the difference of + the nations, comparing the strength and arms of his country with those of + the Christians, and ever after temporised so as whosoever else did amiss, + or was wasted by contention, Carapana kept himself and his country in + quiet and plenty. He also held peace with the Caribs or cannibals, his + neighbours, and had free trade with all nations, whosoever else had war. + </p> + <p> + Berreo sojourned and rested his weak troop in the town of Carapana six + weeks, and from him learned the way and passage to Guiana, and the riches + and magnificence thereof. But being then utterly unable to proceed, he + determined to try his fortune another year, when he had renewed his + provisions, and regathered more force, which he hoped for as well out of + Spain as from Nuevo Reyno, where he had left his son Don Antonio Ximenes + to second him upon the first notice given of his entrance; and so for the + present embarked himself in canoas, and by the branches of Orenoque + arrived at Trinidad, having from Carapana sufficient pilots to conduct + him. From Trinidad he coasted Paria, and so recovered Margarita; and + having made relation to Don Juan Sarmiento, the Governor, of his + proceeding, and persuaded him of the riches of Guiana, he obtained from + thence fifty soldiers, promising presently to return to Carapana, and so + into Guiana. But Berreo meant nothing less at that time; for he wanted + many provisions necessary for such an enterprise, and therefore departed + from Margarita, seated himself in Trinidad, and from thence sent his + camp-master and his sergeant-major back to the borders to discover the + nearest passage into the empire, as also to treat with the borderers, and + to draw them to his party and love; without which, he knew he could + neither pass safely, nor in any sort be relieved with victual or aught + else. Carapana directed his company to a king called Morequito, assuring + them that no man could deliver so much Guiana as Morequito could, and that + his dwelling was but five days' journey from Macureguarai, the first civil + town of Guiana. + </p> + <p> + Now your lordship shall understand that this Morequito, one of the + greatest lords or kings of the borders of Guiana, had two or three years + before been at Cumana and at Margarita, in the West Indies, with great + store of plates of gold, which he carried to exchange for such other + things as he wanted in his own country, and was daily feasted, and + presented by the governors of those places, and held amongst them some two + months. In which time one Vides, Governor of Cumana, won him to be his + conductor into Guiana, being allured by those croissants and images of + gold which he brought with him to trade, as also by the ancient fame and + magnificence of El Dorado; whereupon Vides sent into Spain for a patent to + discover and conquer Guiana, not knowing of the precedence of Berreo's + patent; which, as Berreo affirmeth, was signed before that of Vidas. So as + when Vides understood of Berreo and that he had made entrance into that + territory, and foregone his desire and hope, it was verily thought that + Vides practised with Morequito to hinder and disturb Berreo in all he + could, and not to suffer him to enter through his seignory, nor any of his + companies; neither to victual, nor guide them in any sort. For Vides, + Governor of Cumana, and Berreo, were become mortal enemies, as well for + that Berreo had gotten Trinidad into his patent with Guiana, as also in + that he was by Berreo prevented in the journey of Guiana itself. Howsoever + it was, I know not, but Morequito for a time dissembled his disposition, + suffered ten Spaniards and a friar, which Berreo had sent to discover + Manoa, to travel through his country, gave them a guide for Macureguarai, + the first town of civil and apparelled people, from whence they had other + guides to bring them to Manoa, the great city of Inga; and being furnished + with those things which they had learned of Carapana were of most price in + Guiana, went onward, and in eleven days arrived at Manoa, as Berreo + affirmeth for certain; although I could not be assured thereof by the lord + which now governeth the province of Morequito, for he told me that they + got all the gold they had in other towns on this side Manoa, there being + many very great and rich, and (as he said) built like the towns of + Christians, with many rooms. + </p> + <p> + When these ten Spaniards were returned, and ready to put out of the border + of Aromaia (the district below the Caroni river), the people of Morequito + set upon them, and slew them all but one that swam the river, and took + from them to the value of 40,000 pesos of gold; and one of them only lived + to bring the news to Berreo, that both his nine soldiers and holy father + were benighted in the said province. I myself spake with the captains of + Morequito that slew them, and was at the place where it was executed. + Berreo, enraged herewithal, sent all the strength he could make into + Aromaia, to be revenged of him, his people, and country. But Morequito, + suspecting the same, fled over Orenoque, and through the territories of + the Saima and Wikiri recovered Cumana, where he thought himself very safe, + with Vides the governor. But Berreo sending for him in the king's name, + and his messengers finding him in the house of one Fajardo, on the sudden, + ere he was suspected, so as he could not then be conveyed away, Vides + durst not deny him, as well to avoid the suspicion of the practice, as + also for that an holy father was slain by him and his people. Morequito + offered Fajardo the weight of three quintals in gold, to let him escape; + but the poor Guianian, betrayed on all sides, was delivered to the + camp-master of Berreo, and was presently executed. + </p> + <p> + After the death of this Morequito, the soldiers of Berreo spoiled his + territory and took divers prisoners. Among others they took the uncle of + Morequito, called Topiawari, who is now king of Aromaia, whose son I + brought with me into England, and is a man of great understanding and + policy; he is above an hundred years old, and yet is of a very able body. + The Spaniards led him in a chain seventeen days, and made him their guide + from place to place between his country and Emeria, the province of + Carapana aforesaid, and he was at last redeemed for an hundred plates of + gold, and divers stones called piedras hijadas, or spleen-stones. Now + Berreo for executing of Morequito, and other cruelties, spoils, and + slaughters done in Aromaia, hath lost the love of the Orenoqueponi, and of + all the borderers, and dare not send any of his soldiers any further into + the land than to Carapana, which he called the port of Guiana; but from + thence by the help of Carapana he had trade further into the country, and + always appointed ten Spaniards to reside in Carapana's town (the Spanish + settlement of Santo Tome de la Guyana, founded by Berrio in 1591 or 1592, + but represented by Raleigh as an Indian pueblo), by whose favour, and by + being conducted by his people, those ten searched the country thereabouts, + as well for mines as for other trades and commodities. + </p> + <p> + They also have gotten a nephew of Morequito, whom they have christened and + named Don Juan, of whom they have great hope, endeavouring by all means to + establish him in the said province. Among many other trades, those + Spaniards used canoas to pass to the rivers of Barema, Pawroma, and + Dissequebe (Essequibo), which are on the south side of the mouth of + Orenoque, and there buy women and children from the cannibals, which are + of that barbarous nature, as they will for three or four hatchets sell the + sons and daughters of their own brethren and sisters, and for somewhat + more even their own daughters. Hereof the Spaniards make great profit; for + buying a maid of twelve or thirteen years for three or four hatchets, they + sell them again at Margarita in the West Indies for fifty and an hundred + pesos, which is so many crowns. + </p> + <p> + The master of my ship, John Douglas, took one of the canoas which came + laden from thence with people to be sold, and the most of them escaped; + yet of those he brought, there was one as well favoured and as well shaped + as ever I saw any in England; and afterwards I saw many of them, which but + for their tawny colour may be compared to any in Europe. They also trade + in those rivers for bread of cassavi, of which they buy an hundred pound + weight for a knife, and sell it at Margarita for ten pesos. They also + recover great store of cotton, Brazil wood, and those beds which they call + hamacas or Brazil beds, wherein in hot countries all the Spaniards use to + lie commonly, and in no other, neither did we ourselves while we were + there. By means of which trades, for ransom of divers of the Guianians, + and for exchange of hatchets and knives, Berreo recovered some store of + gold plates, eagles of gold, and images of men and divers birds, and + dispatched his camp-master for Spain, with all that he had gathered, + therewith to levy soldiers, and by the show thereof to draw others to the + love of the enterprise. And having sent divers images as well of men as + beasts, birds, and fishes, so curiously wrought in gold, he doubted not + but to persuade the king to yield to him some further help, especially for + that this land hath never been sacked, the mines never wrought, and in the + Indies their works were well spent, and the gold drawn out with great + labour and charge. He also despatched messengers to his son in Nuevo Reyno + to levy all the forces he could, and to come down the river Orenoque to + Emeria, the province of Carapana, to meet him; he had also sent to + Santiago de Leon on the coast of the Caracas, to buy horses and mules. + </p> + <p> + After I had thus learned of his proceedings past and purposed, I told him + that I had resolved to see Guiana, and that it was the end of my journey, + and the cause of my coming to Trinidad, as it was indeed, and for that + purpose I sent Jacob Whiddon the year before to get intelligence: with + whom Berreo himself had speech at that time, and remembered how + inquisitive Jacob Whiddon was of his proceedings, and of the country of + Guiana. Berreo was stricken into a great melancholy and sadness, and used + all the arguments he could to dissuade me; and also assured the gentlemen + of my company that it would be labour lost, and that they should suffer + many miseries if they proceeded. And first he delivered that I could not + enter any of the rivers with any bark or pinnace, or hardly with any + ship's boat, it was so low, sandy, and full of flats, and that his + companies were daily grounded in their canoes, which drew but twelve + inches water. He further said that none of the country would come to speak + with us, but would all fly; and if we followed them to their dwellings, + they would burn their own towns. And besides that, the way was long, the + winter at hand, and that the rivers beginning once to swell, it was + impossible to stem the current; and that we could not in those small boats + by any means carry victuals for half the time, and that (which indeed most + discouraged my company) the kings and lords of all the borders of Guiana + had decreed that none of them should trade with any Christians for gold, + because the same would be their own overthrow, and that for the love of + gold the Christians meant to conquer and dispossess them of all together. + </p> + <p> + Many and the most of these I found to be true; but yet I resolving to make + trial of whatsoever happened, directed Captain George Gifford, my + Vice-Admiral, to take the Lion's Whelp, and Captain Caulfield his bark, to + turn to the eastward, against the mouth of a river called Capuri, whose + entrance I had before sent Captain Whiddon and John Douglas the master to + discover. Who found some nine foot water or better upon the flood, and + five at low water: to whom I had given instructions that they should + anchor at the edge of the shoal, and upon the best of the flood to thrust + over, which shoal John Douglas buoyed and beckoned (beaconed) for them + before. But they laboured in vain; for neither could they turn it up + altogether so far to the east, neither did the flood continue so long, but + the water fell ere they could have passed the sands. As we after found by + a second experience: so as now we must either give over our enterprise, or + leaving our ships at adventure 400 mile behind us, must run up in our + ship's boats, one barge, and two wherries. But being doubtful how to carry + victuals for so long a time in such baubles, or any strength of men, + especially for that Berreo assured us that his son must be by that time + come down with many soldiers, I sent away one King, master of the Lion's + Whelp, with his ship-boat, to try another branch of the river in the + bottom of the Bay of Guanipa, which was called Amana, to prove if there + were water to be found for either of the small ships to enter. But when he + came to the mouth of Amana, he found it as the rest, but stayed not to + discover it thoroughly, because he was assured by an Indian, his guide, + that the cannibals of Guanipa would assail them with many canoas, and that + they shot poisoned arrows; so as if he hasted not back, they should all be + lost. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime, fearing the worst, I caused all the carpenters we had to + cut down a galego boat, which we meant to cast off, and to fit her with + banks to row on, and in all things to prepare her the best they could, so + as she might be brought to draw but five foot: for so much we had on the + bar of Capuri at low water. And doubting of King's return, I sent John + Douglas again in my long barge, as well to relieve him, as also to make a + perfect search in the bottom of the bay; for it hath been held for + infallible, that whatsoever ship or boat shall fall therein can never + disemboque again, by reason of the violent current which setteth into the + said bay, as also for that the breeze and easterly wind bloweth directly + into the same. Of which opinion I have heard John Hampton (Captain of the + Minion in the third voyage of Hawkins), of Plymouth, one of the greatest + experience of England, and divers other besides that have traded to + Trinidad. + </p> + <p> + I sent with John Douglas an old cacique of Trinidad for a pilot, who told + us that we could not return again by the bay or gulf, but that he knew a + by-branch which ran within the land to the eastward, and he thought by it + we might fall into Capuri, and so return in four days. John Douglas + searched those rivers, and found four goodly entrances, whereof the least + was as big as the Thames at Woolwich, but in the bay thitherward it was + shoal and but six foot water; so as we were now without hope of any ship + or bark to pass over, and therefore resolved to go on with the boats, and + the bottom of the galego, in which we thrust 60 men. In the Lion's Whelp's + boat and wherry we carried twenty, Captain Caulfield in his wherry carried + ten more, and in my barge other ten, which made up a hundred; we had no + other means but to carry victual for a month in the same, and also to + lodge therein as we could, and to boil and dress our meat. Captain Gifford + had with him Master Edward Porter, Captain Eynos, and eight more in his + wherry, with all their victual, weapons, and provisions. Captain Caulfield + had with him my cousin Butshead Gorges, and eight more. In the galley, of + gentlemen and officers myself had Captain Thyn, my cousin John Greenvile, + my nephew John Gilbert, Captain Whiddon, Captain Keymis, Edward Hancock, + Captain Clarke, Lieutenant Hughes, Thomas Upton, Captain Facy, Jerome + Ferrar, Anthony Wells, William Connock, and above fifty more. We could not + learn of Berreo any other way to enter but in branches so far to windward + as it was impossible for us to recover; for we had as much sea to cross + over in our wherries, as between Dover and Calice, and in a great hollow, + the wind and current being both very strong. So as we were driven to go in + those small boats directly before the wind into the bottom of the Bay of + Guanipa, and from thence to enter the mouth of some one of those rivers + which John Douglas had last discovered; and had with us for pilot an + Indian of Barema, a river to the south of Orenoque, between that and + Amazons, whose canoas we had formerly taken as he was going from the said + Barema, laden with cassavi bread to sell at Margarita. This Arwacan + promised to bring me into the great river of Orenoque; but indeed of that + which he entered he was utterly ignorant, for he had not seen it in twelve + years before, at which time he was very young, and of no judgment. And if + God had not sent us another help, we might have wandered a whole year in + that labyrinth of rivers, ere we had found any way, either out or in, + especially after we were past ebbing and flowing, which was in four days. + For I know all the earth doth not yield the like confluence of streams and + branches, the one crossing the other so many times, and all so fair and + large, and so like one to another, as no man can tell which to take: and + if we went by the sun or compass, hoping thereby to go directly one way or + other, yet that way we were also carried in a circle amongst multitudes of + islands, and every island so bordered with high trees as no man could see + any further than the breadth of the river, or length of the breach. But + this it chanced, that entering into a river (which because it had no name, + we called the River of the Red Cross, ourselves being the first Christians + that ever came therein), the 22. of May, as we were rowing up the same, we + espied a small canoa with three Indians, which by the swiftness of my + barge, rowing with eight oars, I overtook ere they could cross the river. + The rest of the people on the banks, shadowed under the thick wood, gazed + on with a doubtful conceit what might befall those three which we had + taken. But when they perceived that we offered them no violence, neither + entered their canoa with any of ours, nor took out of the canoa any of + theirs, they then began to show themselves on the bank's side, and offered + to traffic with us for such things as they had. And as we drew near, they + all stayed; and we came with our barge to the mouth of a little creek + which came from their town into the great river. + </p> + <p> + As we abode here awhile, our Indian pilot, called Ferdinando, would needs + go ashore to their village to fetch some fruits and to drink of their + artificial wines, and also to see the place and know the lord of it + against another time, and took with him a brother of his which he had with + him in the journey. When they came to the village of these people the lord + of the island offered to lay hands on them, purposing to have slain them + both; yielding for reason that this Indian of ours had brought a strange + nation into their territory to spoil and destroy them. But the pilot being + quick and of a disposed body, slipt their fingers and ran into the woods, + and his brother, being the better footman of the two, recovered the + creek's mouth, where we stayed in our barge, crying out that his brother + was slain. With that we set hands on one of them that was next us, a very + old man, and brought him into the barge, assuring him that if we had not + our pilot again we would presently cut off his head. This old man, being + resolved that he should pay the loss of the other, cried out to those in + the woods to save Ferdinando, our pilot; but they followed him + notwithstanding, and hunted after him upon the foot with their deer-dogs, + and with so main a cry that all the woods echoed with the shout they made. + But at the last this poor chased Indian recovered the river side and got + upon a tree, and, as we were coasting, leaped down and swam to the barge + half dead with fear. But our good hap was that we kept the other old + Indian, which we handfasted to redeem our pilot withal; for, being natural + of those rivers, we assured ourselves that he knew the way better than any + stranger could. And, indeed, but for this chance, I think we had never + found the way either to Guiana or back to our ships; for Ferdinando after + a few days knew nothing at all, nor which way to turn; yea, and many times + the old man himself was in great doubt which river to take. Those people + which dwell in these broken islands and drowned lands are generally called + Tivitivas. There are of them two sorts; the one called Ciawani, and the + other Waraweete. + </p> + <p> + The great river of Orenoque or Baraquan hath nine branches which fall out + on the north side of his own main mouth. On the south side it hath seven + other fallings into the sea, so it disemboqueth by sixteen arms in all, + between islands and broken ground; but the islands are very great, many of + them as big as the Isle of Wight, and bigger, and many less. From the + first branch on the north to the last of the south it is at least 100 + leagues, so as the river's mouth is 300 miles wide at his entrance into + the sea, which I take to be far bigger than that of Amazons. All those + that inhabit in the mouth of this river upon the several north branches + are these Tivitivas, of which there are two chief lords which have + continual wars one with the other. The islands which lie on the right hand + are called Pallamos, and the land on the left, Hororotomaka; and the river + by which John Douglas returned within the land from Amana to Capuri they + call Macuri. + </p> + <p> + These Tivitivas are a very goodly people and very valiant, and have the + most manly speech and most deliberate that ever I heard of what nation + soever. In the summer they have houses on the ground, as in other places; + in the winter they dwell upon the trees, where they build very artificial + towns and villages, as it is written in the Spanish story of the West + Indies that those people do in the low lands near the gulf of Uraba. For + between May and September the river of Orenoque riseth thirty foot + upright, and then are those islands overflown twenty foot high above the + level of the ground, saving some few raised grounds in the middle of them; + and for this cause they are enforced to live in this manner. They never + eat of anything that is set or sown; and as at home they use neither + planting nor other manurance, so when they come abroad they refuse to feed + of aught but of that which nature without labour bringeth forth. They use + the tops of palmitos for bread, and kill deer, fish, and porks for the + rest of their sustenance. They have also many sorts of fruits that grow in + the woods, and great variety of birds and fowls; and if to speak of them + were not tedious and vulgar, surely we saw in those passages of very rare + colours and forms not elsewhere to be found, for as much as I have either + seen or read. + </p> + <p> + Of these people those that dwell upon the branches of Orenoque, called + Capuri, and Macureo, are for the most part carpenters of canoas; for they + make the most and fairest canoas; and sell them into Guiana for gold and + into Trinidad for tabacco, in the excessive taking whereof they exceed all + nations. And notwithstanding the moistness of the air in which they live, + the hardness of their diet, and the great labours they suffer to hunt, + fish, and fowl for their living, in all my life, either in the Indies or + in Europe, did I never behold a more goodly or better-favoured people or a + more manly. They were wont to make war upon all nations, and especially on + the Cannibals, so as none durst without a good strength trade by those + rivers; but of late they are at peace with their neighbours, all holding + the Spaniards for a common enemy. When their commanders die they use great + lamentation; and when they think the flesh of their bodies is putrified + and fallen from their bones, then they take up the carcase again and hang + it in the cacique's house that died, and deck his skull with feathers of + all colours, and hang all his gold plates about the bones of this arms, + thighs, and legs. Those nations which are called Arwacas, which dwell on + the south of Orenoque, of which place and nation our Indian pilot was, are + dispersed in many other places, and do use to beat the bones of their + lords into powder, and their wives and friends drink it all in their + several sorts of drinks. + </p> + <p> + After we departed from the port of these Ciawani we passed up the river + with the flood and anchored the ebb, and in this sort we went onward. The + third day that we entered the river, our galley came on ground; and stuck + so fast as we thought that even there our discovery had ended, and that we + must have left four-score and ten of our men to have inhabited, like rooks + upon trees, with those nations. But the next morning, after we had cast + out all her ballast, with tugging and hauling to and fro we got her afloat + and went on. At four days' end we fell into as goodly a river as ever I + beheld, which was called the great Amana, which ran more directly without + windings and turnings than the other. But soon after the flood of the sea + left us; and, being enforced either by main strength to row against a + violent current, or to return as wise as we went out, we had then no shift + but to persuade the companies that it was but two or three days' work, and + therefore desired them to take pains, every gentleman and others taking + their turns to row, and to spell one the other at the hour's end. Every + day we passed by goodly branches of rivers, some falling from the west, + others from the east, into Amana; but those I leave to the description in + the chart of discovery, where every one shall be named with his rising and + descent. When three days more were overgone, our companies began to + despair, the weather being extreme hot, the river bordered with very high + trees that kept away the air, and the current against us every day + stronger than other. But we evermore commanded our pilots to promise an + end the next day, and used it so long as we were driven to assure them + from four reaches of the river to three, and so to two, and so to the next + reach. But so long we laboured that many days were spent, and we driven to + draw ourselves to harder allowance, our bread even at the last, and no + drink at all; and our men and ourselves so wearied and scorched, and + doubtful withal whether we should ever perform it or no, the heat + increasing as we drew towards the line; for we were now in five degrees. + </p> + <p> + The further we went on, our victual decreasing and the air breeding great + faintness, we grew weaker and weaker, when we had most need of strength + and ability. For hourly the river ran more violently than other against + us, and the barge, wherries, and ship's boat of Captain Gifford and + Captain Caulfield had spent all their provisions; so as we were brought + into despair and discomfort, had we not persuaded all the company that it + was but only one day's work more to attain the land where we should be + relieved of all we wanted, and if we returned, that we were sure to starve + by the way, and that the world would also laugh us to scorn. On the banks + of these rivers were divers sorts of fruits good to eat, flowers and trees + of such variety as were sufficient to make ten volumes of Herbals; we + relieved ourselves many times with the fruits of the country, and + sometimes with fowl and fish. We saw birds of all colours, some carnation, + some crimson, orange-tawny, purple, watchet (pale blue), and of all other + sorts, both simple and mixed, and it was unto us a great good-passing of + the time to behold them, besides the relief we found by killing some store + of them with our fowling-pieces; without which, having little or no bread, + and less drink, but only the thick and troubled water of the river, we had + been in a very hard case. + </p> + <p> + Our old pilot of the Ciawani, whom, as I said before, we took to redeem + Ferdinando, told us, that if we would enter a branch of a river on the + right hand with our barge and wherries, and leave the galley at anchor the + while in the great river, he would bring us to a town of the Arwacas, + where we should find store of bread, hens, fish, and of the country wine; + and persuaded us, that departing from the galley at noon we might return + ere night. I was very glad to hear this speech, and presently took my + barge, with eight musketeers, Captain Gifford's wherry, with himself and + four musketeers, and Captain Caulfield with his wherry, and as many; and + so we entered the mouth of this river; and because we were persuaded that + it was so near, we took no victual with us at all. When we had rowed three + hours, we marvelled we saw no sign of any dwelling, and asked the pilot + where the town was; he told us, a little further. After three hours more, + the sun being almost set, we began to suspect that he led us that way to + betray us; for he confessed that those Spaniards which fled from Trinidad, + and also those that remained with Carapana in Emeria, were joined together + in some village upon that river. But when it grew towards night, and we + demanded where the place was, he told us but four reaches more. When we + had rowed four and four, we saw no sign; and our poor watermen, even + heart-broken and tired, were ready to give up the ghost; for we had now + come from the galley near forty miles. + </p> + <p> + At the last we determined to hang the pilot; and if we had well known the + way back again by night, he had surely gone. But our own necessities + pleaded sufficiently for his safety; for it was as dark as pitch, and the + river began so to narrow itself, and the trees to hang over from side to + side, as we were driven with arming swords to cut a passage through those + branches that covered the water. We were very desirous to find this town + hoping of a feast, because we made but a short breakfast aboard the galley + in the morning, and it was now eight o'clock at night, and our stomachs + began to gnaw apace; but whether it was best to return or go on, we began + to doubt, suspecting treason in the pilot more and more; but the poor old + Indian ever assured us that it was but a little further, but this one + turning and that turning; and at the last about one o'clock after midnight + we saw a light, and rowing towards it we heard the dogs of the village. + When we landed we found few people; for the lord of that place was gone + with divers canoas above 400 miles off, upon a journey towards the head of + Orenoque, to trade for gold, and to buy women of the Cannibals, who + afterwards unfortunately passed by us as we rode at an anchor in the port + of Morequito in the dark of the night, and yet came so near us as his + canoas grated against our barges; he left one of his company at the port + of Morequito, by whom we understood that he had brought thirty young + women, divers plates of gold, and had great store of fine pieces of cotton + cloth, and cotton beds. In his house we had good store of bread, fish, + hens, and Indian drink, and so rested that night; and in the morning, + after we had traded with such of his people as came down, we returned + towards our galley, and brought with us some quantity of bread, fish, and + hens. + </p> + <p> + On both sides of this river we passed the most beautiful country that ever + mine eyes beheld; and whereas all that we had seen before was nothing but + woods, prickles, bushes, and thorns, here we beheld plains of twenty miles + in length, the grass short and green, and in divers parts groves of trees + by themselves, as if they had been by all the art and labour in the world + so made of purpose; and still as we rowed, the deer came down feeding by + the water's side as if they had been used to a keeper's call. Upon this + river there were great store of fowl, and of many sorts; we saw in it + divers sorts of strange fishes, and of marvellous bigness; but for + lagartos (alligators and caymans) it exceeded, for there were thousands of + those ugly serpents; and the people call it, for the abundance of them, + the River of Lagartos, in their language. I had a negro, a very proper + young fellow, who leaping out of the galley to swim in the mouth of this + river, was in all our sights taken and devoured with one of those + lagartos. In the meanwhile our companies in the galley thought we had been + all lost, for we promised to return before night; and sent the Lion's + Whelp's ship's boat with Captain Whiddon to follow us up the river. But + the next day, after we had rowed up and down some fourscore miles, we + returned, and went on our way up the great river; and when we were even at + the last cast for want of victuals, Captain Gifford being before the + galley and the rest of the boats, seeking out some place to land upon the + banks to make fire, espied four canoas coming down the river; and with no + small joy caused his men to try the uttermost of their strengths, and + after a while two of the four gave over and ran themselves ashore, every + man betaking himself to the fastness of the woods. The two other lesser + got away, while he landed to lay hold on these; and so turned into some + by-creek, we knew not whither. Those canoas that were taken were loaded + with bread, and were bound for Margarita in the West Indies, which those + Indians, called Arwacas, proposed to carry thither for exchange; but in + the lesser there were three Spaniards, who having heard of the defeat of + their Governor in Trinidad, and that we purposed to enter Guiana, came + away in those canoas; one of them was a cavallero, as the captain of the + Arwacas after told us, another a soldier and the third a refiner. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime, nothing on the earth could have been more welcome to us, + next unto gold, than the great store of very excellent bread which we + found in these canoas; for now our men cried, "Let us go on, we care not + how far." After that Captain Gifford had brought the two canoas to the + galley, I took my barge and went to the bank's side with a dozen shot, + where the canoas first ran themselves ashore, and landed there, sending + out Captain Gifford and Captain Thyn on one hand and Captain Caulfield on + the other, to follow those that were fled into the woods. And as I was + creeping through the bushes, I saw an Indian basket hidden, which was the + refiner's basket; for I found in it his quicksilver, saltpetre, and divers + things for the trial of metals, and also the dust of such ore as he had + refined; but in those canoas which escaped there was a good quantity of + ore and gold. I then landed more men, and offered five hundred pound to + what soldier soever could take one of those three Spaniards that we + thought were landed. But our labours were in vain in that behalf, for they + put themselves into one of the small canoas, and so, while the greater + canoas were in taking, they escaped. But seeking after the Spaniards we + found the Arwacas hidden in the woods, which were pilots for the + Spaniards, and rowed their canoas. Of which I kept the chiefest for a + pilot, and carried him with me to Guiana; by whom I understood where and + in what countries the Spaniards had laboured for gold, though I made not + the same known to all. For when the springs began to break, and the rivers + to raise themselves so suddenly as by no means we could abide the digging + of any mine, especially for that the richest are defended with rocks of + hard stones, which we call the white spar, and that it required both time, + men, and instruments fit for such a work, I thought it best not to hover + thereabouts, lest if the same had been perceived by the company, there + would have been by this time many barks and ships set out, and perchance + other nations would also have gotten of ours for pilots. So as both + ourselves might have been prevented, and all our care taken for good usage + of the people been utterly lost, by those that only respect present + profit; and such violence or insolence offered as the nations which are + borderers would have changed the desire of our love and defence into + hatred and violence. And for any longer stay to have brought a more + quantity, which I hear hath been often objected, whosoever had seen or + proved the fury of that river after it began to arise, and had been a + month and odd days, as we were, from hearing aught from our ships, leaving + them meanly manned 400 miles off, would perchance have turned somewhat + sooner than we did, if all the mountains had been gold, or rich stones. + And to say the truth, all the branches and small rivers which fell into + Orenoque were raised with such speed, as if we waded them over the shoes + in the morning outward, we were covered to the shoulders homeward the very + same day; and to stay to dig our gold with our nails, had been opus + laboris but not ingenii. Such a quantity as would have served our turns we + could not have had, but a discovery of the mines to our infinite + disadvantage we had made, and that could have been the best profit of + farther search or stay; for those mines are not easily broken, nor opened + in haste, and I could have returned a good quantity of gold ready cast if + I had not shot at another mark than present profit. + </p> + <p> + This Arwacan pilot, with the rest, feared that we would have eaten them, + or otherwise have put them to some cruel death: for the Spaniards, to the + end that none of the people in the passage towards Guiana, or in Guiana + itself, might come to speech with us, persuaded all the nations that we + were men-eaters and cannibals. But when the poor men and women had seen + us, and that we gave them meat, and to every one something or other which + was rare and strange to them, they began to conceive the deceit and + purpose of the Spaniards, who indeed, as they confessed took from them + both their wives and daughters daily . . . But I protest before the + Majesty of the living God, that I neither know nor believe, that any of + our company, one or other, did offer insult to any of their women, and yet + we saw many hundreds, and had many in our power, and of those very young + and excellently favoured, which came among us without deceit, stark naked. + Nothing got us more love amongst them than this usage; for I suffered not + any man to take from any of the nations so much as a pina (pineapple) or a + potato root without giving them contentment, nor any man so much as to + offer to touch any of their wives or daughters; which course, so contrary + to the Spaniards, who tyrannize over them in all things, drew them to + admire her Majesty, whose commandment I told them it was, and also + wonderfully to honour our nation. But I confess it was a very impatient + work to keep the meaner sort from spoil and stealing when we came to their + houses; which because in all I could not prevent, I caused my Indian + interpreter at every place when we departed, to know of the loss or wrong + done, and if aught were stolen or taken by violence, either the same was + restored, and the party punished in their sight, or else was paid for to + their uttermost demand. They also much wondered at us, after they heard + that we had slain the Spaniards at Trinidad, for they were before resolved + that no nation of Christians durst abide their presence; and they wondered + more when I had made them know of the great overthrow that her Majesty's + army and fleet had given them of late years in their own countries. + </p> + <p> + After we had taken in this supply of bread, with divers baskets of roots, + which were excellent meat, I gave one of the canoas to the Arwacas, which + belonged to the Spaniards that were escaped; and when I had dismissed all + but the captain, who by the Spaniards was christened Martin, I sent back + in the same canoa the old Ciawani, and Ferdinando, my first pilot, and + gave them both such things as they desired, with sufficient victual to + carry them back, and by them wrote a letter to the ships, which they + promised to deliver, and performed it; and then I went on, with my new + hired pilot, Martin the Arwacan. But the next or second day after, we came + aground again with our galley, and were like to cast her away, with all + our victual and provision, and so lay on the sand one whole night, and + were far more in despair at this time to free her than before, because we + had no tide of flood to help us, and therefore feared that all our hopes + would have ended in mishaps. But we fastened an anchor upon the land, and + with main strength drew her off; and so the fifteenth day we discovered + afar off the mountains of Guiana, to our great joy, and towards the + evening had a slent (push) of a northerly wind that blew very strong, + which brought us in sight of the great river Orenoque; out of which this + river descended wherein we were. We descried afar off three other canoas + as far as we could discern them, after whom we hastened with our barge and + wherries, but two of them passed out of sight, and the third entered up + the great river, on the right hand to the westward, and there stayed out + of sight, thinking that we meant to take the way eastward towards the + province of Carapana; for that way the Spaniards keep, not daring to go + upwards to Guiana, the people in those parts being all their enemies, and + those in the canoas thought us to have been those Spaniards that were fled + from Trinidad, and escaped killing. And when we came so far down as the + opening of that branch into which they slipped, being near them with our + barge and wherries, we made after them, and ere they could land came + within call, and by our interpreter told them what we were, wherewith they + came back willingly aboard us; and of such fish and tortugas' (turtles) + eggs as they had gathered they gave us, and promised in the morning to + bring the lord of that part with them, and to do us all other services + they could. That night we came to an anchor at the parting of the three + goodly rivers (the one was the river of Amana, by which we came from the + north, and ran athwart towards the south, the other two were of Orenoque, + which crossed from the west and ran to the sea towards the east) and + landed upon a fair sand, where we found thousands of tortugas' eggs, which + are very wholesome meat, and greatly restoring; so as our men were now + well filled and highly contented both with the fare, and nearness of the + land of Guiana, which appeared in sight. + </p> + <p> + In the morning there came down, according to promise, the lord of that + border, called Toparimaca, with some thirty or forty followers, and + brought us divers sorts of fruits, and of his wine, bread, fish, and + flesh, whom we also feasted as we could; at least we drank good Spanish + wine, whereof we had a small quantity in bottles, which above all things + they love. I conferred with this Toparimaca of the next way to Guiana, who + conducted our galley and boats to his own port, and carried us from thence + some mile and a-half to his town; where some of our captains caroused of + his wine till they were reasonable pleasant, for it is very strong with + pepper, and the juice of divers herbs and fruits digested and purged. They + keep it in great earthen pots of ten or twelve gallons, very clean and + sweet, and are themselves at their meetings and feasts the greatest + carousers and drunkards of the world. When we came to his town we found + two caciques, whereof one was a stranger that had been up the river in + trade, and his boats, people, and wife encamped at the port where we + anchored; and the other was of that country, a follower of Toparimaca. + They lay each of them in a cotton hamaca, which we call Brazil beds, and + two women attending them with six cups, and a little ladle to fill them + out of an earthen pitcher of wine; and so they drank each of them three of + those cups at a time one to the other, and in this sort they drink drunk + at their feasts and meetings. + </p> + <p> + That cacique that was a stranger had his wife staying at the port where we + anchored, and in all my life I have seldom seen a better favoured woman. + She was of good stature, with black eyes, fat of body, of an excellent + countenance, her hair almost as long as herself, tied up again in pretty + knots; and it seemed she stood not in that awe of her husband as the rest, + for she spake and discoursed, and drank among the gentlemen and captains, + and was very pleasant, knowing her own comeliness, and taking great pride + therein. I have seen a lady in England so like to her, as but for the + difference of colour, I would have sworn might have been the same. + </p> + <p> + The seat of this town of Toparimaca was very pleasant, standing on a + little hill, in an excellent prospect, with goodly gardens a mile compass + round about it, and two very fair and large ponds of excellent fish + adjoining. This town is called Arowocai; the people are of the nation + called Nepoios, and are followers of Carapana. In that place I saw very + aged people, that we might perceive all their sinews and veins without any + flesh, and but even as a case covered only with skin. The lord of this + place gave me an old man for pilot, who was of great experience and + travel, and knew the river most perfectly both by day and night. And it + shall be requisite for any man that passeth it to have such a pilot; for + it is four, five, and six miles over in many places, and twenty miles in + other places, with wonderful eddies and strong currents, many great + islands, and divers shoals, and many dangerous rocks; and besides upon any + increase of wind so great a billow, as we were sometimes in great peril of + drowning in the galley, for the small boats durst not come from the shore + but when it was very fair. + </p> + <p> + The next day we hasted thence, and having an easterly wind to help us, we + spared our arms from rowing; for after we entered Orenoque, the river + lieth for the most part east and west, even from the sea unto Quito, in + Peru. This river is navigable with barks little less than 1000 miles; and + from the place where we entered it may be sailed up in small pinnaces to + many of the best parts of Nuevo Reyno de Granada and of Popayan. And from + no place may the cities of these parts of the Indies be so easily taken + and invaded as from hence. All that day we sailed up a branch of that + river, having on the left hand a great island, which they call Assapana, + which may contain some five-and-twenty miles in length, and six miles in + breadth, the great body of the river running on the other side of this + island. Beyond that middle branch there is also another island in the + river, called Iwana, which is twice as big as the Isle of Wight; and + beyond it, and between it and the main of Guiana, runneth a third branch + of Orenoque, called Arraroopana. All three are goodly branches, and all + navigable for great ships. I judge the river in this place to be at least + thirty miles broad, reckoning the islands which divide the branches in it, + for afterwards I sought also both the other branches. + </p> + <p> + After we reached to the head of the island called Assapana, a little to + the westward on the right hand there opened a river which came from the + north, called Europa, and fell into the great river; and beyond it on the + same side we anchored for that night by another island, six miles long and + two miles broad, which they call Ocaywita. From hence, in the morning, we + landed two Guianians, which we found in the town of Toparimaca, that came + with us; who went to give notice of our coming to the lord of that + country, called Putyma, a follower of Topiawari, chief lord of Aromaia, + who succeeded Morequito, whom (as you have heard before) Berreo put to + death. But his town being far within the land, he came not unto us that + day; so as we anchored again that night near the banks of another land, of + bigness much like the other, which they call Putapayma, over against which + island, on the main land, was a very high mountain called Oecope. We + coveted to anchor rather by these islands in the river than by the main, + because of the tortugas' eggs, which our people found on them in great + abundance; and also because the ground served better for us to cast our + nets for fish, the main banks being for the most part stony and high and + the rocks of a blue, metalline colour, like unto the best steel ore, which + I assuredly take it to be. Of the same blue stone are also divers great + mountains which border this river in many places. + </p> + <p> + The next morning, towards nine of the clock, we weighed anchor; and the + breeze increasing, we sailed always west up the river, and, after a while, + opening the land on the right side, the country appeared to be champaign + and the banks shewed very perfect red. I therefore sent two of the little + barges with Captain Gifford, and with him Captain Thyn, Captain Caulfield, + my cousin Greenvile, my nephew John Gilbert, Captain Eynos, Master Edward + Porter, and my cousin Butshead Gorges, with some few soldiers, to march + over the banks of that red land and to discover what manner of country it + was on the other side; who at their return found it all a plain level as + far as they went or could discern from the highest tree they could get + upon. And my old pilot, a man of great travel, brother to the cacique + Toparimaca, told me that those were called the plains of the Sayma, and + that the same level reached to Cumana and Caracas, in the West Indies, + which are a hundred and twenty leagues to the north, and that there + inhabited four principal nations. The first were the Sayma, the next + Assawai, the third and greatest the Wikiri, by whom Pedro Hernandez de + Serpa, before mentioned, was overthrown as he passed with 300 horse from + Cumana towards Orenoque in his enterprise of Guiana. The fourth are called + Aroras, and are as black as negroes, but have smooth hair; and these are + very valiant, or rather desperate, people, and have the most strong poison + on their arrows, and most dangerous, of all nations, of which I will speak + somewhat, being a digression not unnecessary. + </p> + <p> + There was nothing whereof I was more curious than to find out the true + remedies of these poisoned arrows. For besides the mortality of the wound + they make, the party shot endureth the most insufferable torment in the + world, and abideth a most ugly and lamentable death, sometimes dying stark + mad, sometimes their bowels breaking out of their bellies; which are + presently discoloured as black as pitch, and so unsavory as no man can + endure to cure or to attend them. And it is more strange to know that in + all this time there was never Spaniard, either by gift or torment, that + could attain to the true knowledge of the cure, although they have + martyred and put to invented torture I know not how many of them. But + everyone of these Indians know it not, no, not one among thousands, but + their soothsayers and priests, who do conceal it, and only teach it but + from the father to the son. + </p> + <p> + Those medicines which are vulgar, and serve for the ordinary poison, are + made of the juice of a root called tupara; the same also quencheth + marvellously the heat of burning fevers, and healeth inward wounds and + broken veins that bleed within the body. But I was more beholding to the + Guianians than any other; for Antonio de Berreo told me that he could + never attain to the knowledge thereof, and yet they taught me the best way + of healing as well thereof as of all other poisons. Some of the Spaniards + have been cured in ordinary wounds of the common poisoned arrows with the + juice of garlic. But this is a general rule for all men that shall + hereafter travel the Indies where poisoned arrows are used, that they must + abstain from drink. For if they take any liquor into their body, as they + shall be marvellously provoked thereunto by drought, I say, if they drink + before the wound be dressed, or soon upon it, there is no way with them + but present death. + </p> + <p> + And so I will return again to our journey, which for this third day we + finished, and cast anchor again near the continent on the left hand + between two mountains, the one called Aroami and the other Aio. I made no + stay here but till midnight; for I feared hourly lest any rain should + fall, and then it had been impossible to have gone any further up, + notwithstanding that there is every day a very strong breeze and easterly + wind. I deferred the search of the country on Guiana side till my return + down the river. + </p> + <p> + The next day we sailed by a great island in the middle of the river, + called Manoripano; and, as we walked awhile on the island, while the + galley got ahead of us, there came for us from the main a small canoa with + seven or eight Guianians, to invite us to anchor at their port, but I + deferred till my return. It was that cacique to whom those Nepoios went, + which came with us from the town of Toparimaca. And so the fifth day we + reached as high up as the province of Aromaia, the country of Morequito, + whom Berreo executed, and anchored to the west of an island called + Murrecotima, ten miles long and five broad. And that night the cacique + Aramiary, to whose town we made our long and hungry voyage out of the + river of Amana, passed by us. + </p> + <p> + The next day we arrived at the port of Morequito, and anchored there, + sending away one of our pilots to seek the king of Aromaia, uncle to + Morequito, slain by Berreo as aforesaid. The next day following, before + noon, he came to us on foot from his house, which was fourteen English + miles, himself being a hundred and ten years old, and returned on foot the + same day; and with him many of the borderers, with many women and + children, that came to wonder at our nation and to bring us down victual, + which they did in great plenty, as venison, pork, hens, chickens, fowl, + fish, with divers sorts of excellent fruits and roots, and great abundance + of pinas, the princess of fruits that grow under the sun, especially those + of Guiana. They brought us, also, store of bread and of their wine, and a + sort of paraquitos no bigger than wrens, and of all other sorts both small + and great. One of them gave me a beast called by the Spaniards armadillo, + which they call cassacam, which seemeth to be all barred over with small + plates somewhat like to a rhinoceros, with a white horn growing in his + hinder parts as big as a great hunting-horn, which they use to wind + instead of a trumpet. Monardus (Monardes, Historia Medicinal) writeth that + a little of the powder of that horn put into the ear cureth deafness. + </p> + <p> + After this old king had rested awhile in a little tent that I caused to be + set up, I began by my interpreter to discourse with him of the death of + Morequito his predecessor, and afterward of the Spaniards; and ere I went + any farther I made him know the cause of my coming thither, whose servant + I was, and that the Queen's pleasure was I should undertake the voyage for + their defence, and to deliver them from the tyranny of the Spaniards, + dilating at large, as I had done before to those of Trinidad, her + Majesty's greatness, her justice, her charity to all oppressed nations, + with as many of the rest of her beauties and virtues as either I could + express or they conceive. All which being with great admiration + attentively heard and marvellously admired, I began to sound the old man + as touching Guiana and the state thereof, what sort of commonwealth it + was, how governed, of what strength and policy, how far it extended, and + what nations were friends or enemies adjoining, and finally of the + distance, and way to enter the same. He told me that himself and his + people, with all those down the river towards the sea, as far as Emeria, + the province of Carapana, were of Guiana, but that they called themselves + Orenoqueponi, and that all the nations between the river and those + mountains in sight, called Wacarima, were of the same cast and + appellation; and that on the other side of those mountains of Wacarima + there was a large plain (which after I discovered in my return) called the + valley of Amariocapana. In all that valley the people were also of the + ancient Guianians. + </p> + <p> + I asked what nations those were which inhabited on the further side of + those mountains, beyond the valley of Amariocapana. He answered with a + great sigh (as a man which had inward feeling of the loss of his country + and liberty, especially for that his eldest son was slain in a battle on + that side of the mountains, whom he most entirely loved) that he + remembered in his father's lifetime, when he was very old and himself a + young man, that there came down into that large valley of Guiana a nation + from so far off as the sun slept (for such were his own words), with so + great a multitude as they could not be numbered nor resisted, and that + they wore large coats, and hats of crimson colour, which colour he + expressed by shewing a piece of red wood wherewith my tent was supported, + and that they were called Orejones and Epuremei; that those had slain and + rooted out so many of the ancient people as there were leaves in the wood + upon all the trees, and had now made themselves lords of all, even to that + mountain foot called Curaa, saving only of two nations, the one called + Iwarawaqueri and the other Cassipagotos; and that in the last battle + fought between the Epuremei and the Iwarawaqueri his eldest son was chosen + to carry to the aid of the Iwarawaqueri a great troop of the Orenoqueponi, + and was there slain with all his people and friends, and that he had now + remaining but one son; and farther told me that those Epuremei had built a + great town called Macureguarai at the said mountain foot, at the beginning + of the great plains of Guiana, which have no end; and that their houses + have many rooms, one over the other, and that therein the great king of + the Orejones and Epuremei kept three thousand men to defend the borders + against them, and withal daily to invade and slay them; but that of late + years, since the Christians offered to invade his territories and those + frontiers, they were all at peace, and traded one with another, saving + only the Iwarawaqueri and those other nations upon the head of the river + of Caroli called Cassipagotos, which we afterwards discovered, each one + holding the Spaniard for a common enemy. + </p> + <p> + After he had answered thus far, he desired leave to depart, saying that he + had far to go, that he was old and weak, and was every day called for by + death, which was also his own phrase. I desired him to rest with us that + night, but I could not entreat him; but he told me that at my return from + the country above he would again come to us, and in the meantime provide + for us the best he could, of all that his country yielded. The same night + he returned to Orocotona, his own town; so as he went that day + eight-and-twenty miles, the weather being very hot, the country being + situate between four and five degrees of the equinoctial. This Topiawari + is held for the proudest and wisest of all the Orenoqueponi, and so he + behaved himself towards me in all his answers, at my return, as I + marvelled to find a man of that gravity and judgment and of so good + discourse, that had no help of learning nor breed. The next morning we + also left the port, and sailed westward up to the river, to view the + famous river called Caroli, as well because it was marvellous of itself, + as also for that I understood it led to the strongest nations of all the + frontiers, that were enemies to the Epuremei, which are subjects to Inga, + emperor of Guiana and Manoa. And that night we anchored at another island + called Caiama, of some five or six miles in length; and the next day + arrived at the mouth of Caroli. When we were short of it as low or further + down as the port of Morequito, we heard the great roar and fall of the + river. But when we came to enter with our barge and wherries, thinking to + have gone up some forty miles to the nations of the Cassipagotos, we were + not able with a barge of eight oars to row one stone's cast in an hour; + and yet the river is as broad as the Thames at Woolwich, and we tried both + sides, and the middle, and every part of the river. So as we encamped upon + the banks adjoining, and sent off our Orenoquepone which came with us from + Morequito to give knowledge to the nations upon the river of our being + there, and that we desired to see the lords of Canuria, which dwelt within + the province upon that river, making them know that we were enemies to the + Spaniards; for it was on this river side that Morequito slew the friar, + and those nine Spaniards which came from Manoa, the city of Inga, and took + from them 14,000 pesos of gold. So as the next day there came down a lord + or cacique, called Wanuretona, with many people with him, and brought all + store of provisions to entertain us, as the rest had done. And as I had + before made my coming known to Topiawari, so did I acquaint this cacique + therewith, and how I was sent by her Majesty for the purpose aforesaid, + and gathered also what I could of him touching the estate of Guiana. And I + found that those also of Caroli were not only enemies to the Spaniards, + but most of all to the Epuremei, which abound in gold. And by this + Wanuretona I had knowledge that on the head of this river were three + mighty nations, which were seated on a great lake, from whence this river + descended, and were called Cassipagotos, Eparegotos, and Arawagotos (the + Purigotos and Arinagotos are still settled on the upper tributaries of the + Caroni river, no such lake as that mentioned is known to exist); and that + all those either against the Spaniards or the Epuremei would join with us, + and that if we entered the land over the mountains of Curaa we should + satisfy ourselves with gold and all other good things. He told us farther + of a nation called Iwarawaqueri, before spoken of, that held daily war + with the Epuremei that inhabited Macureguarai, and first civil town of + Guiana, of the subjects of Inga, the emperor. + </p> + <p> + Upon this river one Captain George, that I took with Berreo, told me that + there was a great silver mine, and that it was near the banks of the said + river. But by this time as well Orenoque, Caroli, as all the rest of the + rivers were risen four or five feet in height, so as it was not possible + by the strength of any men, or with any boat whatsoever, to row into the + river against the stream. I therefore sent Captain Thyn, Captain + Greenvile, my nephew John Gilbert, my cousin Butshead Gorges, Captain + Clarke, and some thirty shot more to coast the river by land, and to go to + a town some twenty miles over the valley called Amnatapoi; and they found + guides there to go farther towards the mountain foot to another great town + called Capurepana, belonging to a cacique called Haharacoa, that was a + nephew to old Topiawari, king of Aromaia, our chiefest friend, because + this town and province of Capurepana adjoined to Macureguarai, which was a + frontier town of the empire. And the meanwhile myself with Captain + Gifford, Captain Caulfield, Edward Hancock, and some half-a-dozen shot + marched overland to view the strange overfalls of the river of Caroli, + which roared so far off; and also to see the plains adjoining, and the + rest of the province of Canuri. I sent also Captain Whiddon, William + Connock, and some eight shot with them, to see if they could find any + mineral stone alongst the river's side. When we were come to the tops of + the first hills of the plains adjoining to the river, we beheld that + wonderful breach of waters which ran down Caroli; and might from that + mountain see the river how it ran in three parts, above twenty miles off, + and there appeared some ten or twelve overfalls in sight, every one as + high over the other as a church tower, which fell with that fury, that the + rebound of water made it seem as if it had been all covered over with a + great shower of rain; and in some places we took it at the first for a + smoke that had risen over some great town. For mine own part I was well + persuaded from thence to have returned, being a very ill footman; but the + rest were all so desirous to go near the said strange thunder of waters, + as they drew me on by little and little, till we came into the next + valley, where we might better discern the same. I never saw a more + beautiful country, nor more lively prospects; hills so raised here and + there over the valleys; the river winding into divers branches; the plains + adjoining without bush or stubble, all fair green grass; the ground of + hard sand, easy to march on, either for horse or foot; the deer crossing + in every path; the birds towards the evening singing on every tree with a + thousand several tunes; cranes and herons of white, crimson, and + carnation, perching in the river's side; the air fresh with a gentle + easterly wind; and every stone that we stooped to take up promised either + gold or silver by his complexion. Your Lordship shall see of many sorts, + and I hope some of them cannot be bettered under the sun; and yet we had + no means but with our daggers and fingers to tear them out here and there, + the rocks being most hard of that mineral spar aforesaid, which is like a + flint, and is altogether as hard or harder, and besides the veins lie a + fathom or two deep in the rocks. But we wanted all things requisite save + only our desires and good will to have performed more if it had pleased + God. To be short, when both our companies returned, each of them brought + also several sorts of stones that appeared very fair, but were such as + they found loose on the ground, and were for the most part but coloured, + and had not any gold fixed in them. Yet such as had no judgment or + experience kept all that glistered, and would not be persuaded but it was + rich because of the lustre; and brought of those, and of marcasite withal, + from Trinidad, and have delivered of those stones to be tried in many + places, and have thereby bred an opinion that all the rest is of the same. + Yet some of these stones I shewed afterward to a Spaniard of the Caracas, + who told me that it was El Madre del Oro, that is, the mother of gold, and + that the mine was farther in the ground. + </p> + <p> + But it shall be found a weak policy in me, either to betray myself or my + country with imaginations; neither am I so far in love with that lodging, + watching, care, peril, diseases, ill savours, bad fare, and many other + mischiefs that accompany these voyages, as to woo myself again into any of + them, were I not assured that the sun covereth not so much riches in any + part of the earth. Captain Whiddon, and our chirurgeon, Nicholas + Millechamp, brought me a kind of stones like sapphires; what they may + prove I know not. I shewed them to some of the Orenoqueponi, and they + promised to bring me to a mountain that had of them very large pieces + growing diamond-wise; whether it be crystal of the mountain, Bristol + diamond, or sapphire, I do not yet know, but I hope the best; sure I am + that the place is as likely as those from whence all the rich stones are + brought, and in the same height or very near. On the left hand of this + river Caroli are seated those nations which I called Iwarawaqueri before + remembered, which are enemies to the Epuremei; and on the head of it, + adjoining to the great lake Cassipa, are situated those other nations + which also resist Inga, and the Epuremei, called Cassipagotos, Eparegotos, + and Arawagotos. I farther understood that this lake of Cassipa is so + large, as it is above one day's journey for one of their canoas, to cross, + which may be some forty miles; and that thereinto fall divers rivers, and + that great store of grains of gold are found in the summer time when the + lake falleth by the banks, in those branches. + </p> + <p> + There is also another goodly river beyond Caroli which is called Arui, + which also runneth through the lake Cassipa, and falleth into Orenoque + farther west, making all that land between Caroli and Arui an island; + which is likewise a most beautiful country. Next unto Arui there are two + rivers Atoica and Caura, and on that branch which is called Caura are a + nation of people whose heads appear not above their shoulders; which + though it may be thought a mere fable, yet for mine own part I am resolved + it is true, because every child in the provinces of Aromaia and Canuri + affirm the same. They are called Ewaipanoma; they are reported to have + their eyes in their shoulders, and their mouths in the middle of their + breasts, and that a long train of hair groweth backward between their + shoulders. The son of Topiawari, which I brought with me into England, + told me that they were the most mighty men of all the land, and use bows, + arrows, and clubs thrice as big as any of Guiana, or of the Orenoqueponi; + and that one of the Iwarawaqueri took a prisoner of them the year before + our arrival there, and brought him into the borders of Aromaia, his + father's country. And farther, when I seemed to doubt of it, he told me + that it was no wonder among them; but that they were as great a nation and + as common as any other in all the provinces, and had of late years slain + many hundreds of his father's people, and of other nations their + neighbours. But it was not my chance to hear of them till I was come away; + and if I had but spoken one word of it while I was there I might have + brought one of them with me to put the matter out of doubt. Such a nation + was written of by Mandeville, whose reports were holden for fables many + years; and yet since the East Indies were discovered, we find his + relations true of such things as heretofore were held incredible + (Mandeville, or the author who assumed this name, placed his headless men + in the East Indian Archipelago, the fable is borrowed from older writers, + Herodotus &c). Whether it be true or no, the matter is not great, + neither can there be any profit in the imagination; for mine own part I + saw them not, but I am resolved that so many people did not all combine or + forethink to make the report. + </p> + <p> + When I came to Cumana in the West Indies afterwards by chance I spake with + a Spaniard dwelling not far from thence, a man of great travel. And after + he knew that I had been in Guiana, and so far directly west as Caroli, the + first question he asked me was, whether I had seen any of the Ewaipanoma, + which are those without heads. Who being esteemed a most honest man of his + word, and in all things else, told me that he had seen many of them; I may + not name him, because it may be for his disadvantage, but he is well known + to Monsieur Moucheron's son of London, and to Peter Moucheron, merchant, + of the Flemish ship that was there in trade; who also heard, what he + avowed to be true, of those people. + </p> + <p> + The fourth river to the west of Caroli is Casnero: which falleth into the + Orenoque on this side of Amapaia. And that river is greater than Danubius, + or any of Europe: it riseth on the south of Guiana from the mountains + which divide Guiana from Amazons, and I think it to be navigable many + hundred miles. But we had no time, means, nor season of the year, to + search those rivers, for the causes aforesaid, the winter being come upon + us; although the winter and summer as touching cold and heat differ not, + neither do the trees ever sensibly lose their leaves, but have always + fruit either ripe or green, and most of them both blossoms, leaves, ripe + fruit, and green, at one time: but their winter only consisteth of + terrible rains, and overflowing of the rivers, with many great storms and + gusts, thunder and lightnings, of which we had our fill ere we returned. + </p> + <p> + On the north side, the first river that falleth into the Orenoque is Cari. + Beyond it, on the same side is the river of Limo. Between these two is a + great nation of Cannibals, and their chief town beareth the name of the + river, and is called Acamacari. At this town is a continual market of + women for three or four hatchets apiece; they are bought by the Arwacas, + and by them sold into the West Indies. To the west of Limo is the river + Pao, beyond it Caturi, beyond that Voari, and Capuri (the Apure river), + which falleth out of the great river of Meta, by which Berreo descended + from Nuevo Reyno de Granada. To the westward of Capuri is the province of + Amapaia, where Berreo wintered and had so many of his people poisoned with + the tawny water of the marshes of the Anebas. Above Amapaia, toward Nuevo + Reyno, fall in Meto, Pato and Cassanar. To the west of those, towards the + provinces of the Ashaguas and Catetios, are the rivers of Beta, Dawney, + and Ubarro; and toward the frontier of Peru are the provinces of + Thomebamba, and Caxamalca. Adjoining to Quito in the north side of Peru + are the rivers of Guiacar and Goauar; and on the other side of the said + mountains the river of Papamene which descendeth into Maranon or Amazons, + passing through the province Motilones, where Don Pedro de Orsua, who was + slain by the traitor Aguirre before rehearsed, built his brigandines, when + he sought Guiana by the way of Amazons. + </p> + <p> + Between Dawney and Beta lieth a famous island in Orenoque (now called + Baraquan, for above Meta it is not known by the name of Orenoque) which is + called Athule (cataract of Ature); beyond which ships of burden cannot + pass by reason of a most forcible overfall, and current of water; but in + the eddy all smaller vessels may be drawn even to Peru itself. But to + speak of more of these rivers without the description were but tedious, + and therefore I will leave the rest to the description. This river of + Orenoque is navigable for ships little less than 1,000 miles, and for + lesser vessels near 2,000. By it, as aforesaid, Peru, Nuevo Reyno and + Popayan may be invaded: it also leadeth to the great empire of Inga, and + to the provinces of Amapaia and Anebas, which abound in gold. His branches + of Casnero, Manta, Caura descend from the middle land and valley which + lieth between the easter province of Peru and Guiana; and it falls into + the sea between Maranon and Trinidad in two degrees and a half. All of + which your honours shall better perceive in the general description of + Guiana, Peru, Nuevo Reyno, the kingdom of Popayan, and Rodas, with the + province of Venezuela, to the bay of Uraba, behind Cartagena, westward, + and to Amazons southward. While we lay at anchor on the coast of Canuri, + and had taken knowledge of all the nations upon the head and branches of + this river, and had found out so many several people, which were enemies + to the Epuremei and the new conquerors, I thought it time lost to linger + any longer in that place, especially for that the fury of Orenoque began + daily to threaten us with dangers in our return. For no half day passed + but the river began to rage and overflow very fearfully, and the rains + came down in terrible showers, and gusts in great abundance; and withal + our men began to cry out for want of shift, for no man had place to bestow + any other apparel than that which he ware on his back, and that was + throughly washed on his body for the most part ten times in one day; and + we had now been well-near a month every day passing to the westward + farther and farther from our ships. We therefore turned towards the east, + and spent the rest of the time in discovering the river towards the sea, + which we had not viewed, and which was most material. + </p> + <p> + The next day following we left the mouth of Caroli, and arrived again at + the port of Morequito where we were before; for passing down the stream we + went without labour, and against the wind, little less than a hundred + miles a day. As soon as I came to anchor, I sent away one for old + Topiawari, with whom I much desired to have further conference, and also + to deal with him for some one of his country to bring with us into + England, as well to learn the language, as to confer withal by the way, + the time being now spent of any longer stay there. Within three hours + after my messenger came to him, he arrived also, and with him such a + rabble of all sorts of people, and every one loaden with somewhat, as if + it had been a great market or fair in England; and our hungry companies + clustered thick and threefold among their baskets, every one laying hand + on what he liked. After he had rested awhile in my tent, I shut out all + but ourselves and my interpreter, and told him that I knew that both the + Epuremei and the Spaniards were enemies to him, his country and nations: + that the one had conquered Guiana already, and the other sought to regain + the same from them both; and therefore I desired him to instruct me what + he could, both of the passage into the golden parts of Guiana, and to the + civil towns and apparelled people of Inga. He gave me an answer to this + effect: first, that he could not perceive that I meant to go onward + towards the city of Manoa, for neither the time of the year served, + neither could he perceive any sufficient numbers for such an enterprise. + And if I did, I was sure with all my company to be buried there, for the + emperor was of that strength, as that many times so many men more were too + few. Besides, he gave me this good counsel and advised me to hold it in + mind (as for himself, he knew he could not live till my return), that I + should not offer by any means hereafter to invade the strong parts of + Guiana without the help of all those nations which were also their + enemies; for that it was impossible without those, either to be conducted, + to be victualled, or to have aught carried with us, our people not being + able to endure the march in so great heat and travail, unless the + borderers gave them help, to cart with them both their meat and furniture. + For he remembered that in the plains of Macureguarai three hundred + Spaniards were overthrown, who were tired out, and had none of the + borderers to their friends; but meeting their enemies as they passed the + frontier, were environed on all sides, and the people setting the long dry + grass on fire, smothered them, so as they had no breath to fight, nor + could discern their enemies for the great smoke. He told me further that + four days' journey from his town was Macureguarai, and that those were the + next and nearest of the subjects of Inga, and of the Epuremei, and the + first town of apparelled and rich people; and that all those plates of + gold which were scattered among the borderers and carried to other nations + far and near, came from the said Macureguarai and were there made, but + that those of the land within were far finer, and were fashioned after the + images of men, beasts, birds, and fishes. I asked him whether he thought + that those companies that I had there with me were sufficient to take that + town or no; he told me that he thought they were. I then asked him whether + he would assist me with guides, and some companies of his people to join + with us; he answered that he would go himself with all the borderers, if + the rivers did remain fordable, upon this condition, that I would leave + with him till my return again fifty soldiers, which he undertook to + victual. I answered that I had not above fifty good men in all there; the + rest were labourers and rowers, and that I had no provision to leave with + them of powder, shot, apparel, or aught else, and that without those + things necessary for their defence, they should be in danger of the + Spaniards in my absence, who I knew would use the same measures towards + mine that I offered them at Trinidad. And although upon the motion Captain + Caulfield, Captain Greenvile, my nephew John Gilbert and divers others + were desirous to stay, yet I was resolved that they must needs have + perished. For Berreo expected daily a supply out of Spain, and looked also + hourly for his son to come down from Nuevo Reyno de Granada, with many + horse and foot, and had also in Valencia, in the Caracas, two hundred + horse ready to march; and I could not have spared above forty, and had not + any store at all of powder, lead, or match to have left with them, nor any + other provision, either spade, pickaxe, or aught else to have fortified + withal. + </p> + <p> + When I had given him reason that I could not at this time leave him such a + company, he then desired me to forbear him and his country for that time; + for he assured me that I should be no sooner three days from the coast but + those Epuremei would invade him, and destroy all the remain of his people + and friends, if he should any way either guide us or assist us against + them. He further alleged that the Spaniards sought his death; and as they + had already murdered his nephew Morequito, lord of that province, so they + had him seventeen days in a chain before he was king of the country, and + led him like a dog from place to place until he had paid an hundred plates + of gold and divers chains of spleen-stones for his ransom. And now, since + he became owner of that province, that they had many times laid wait to + take him, and that they would be now more vehement when they should + understand of his conference with the English. <i>And because</i>, said + he, <i>they would the better displant me, if they cannot lay hands on me, + they have gotten a nephew of mine called Eparacano, whom they have + christened Don Juan, and his son Don Pedro, whom they have also apparelled + and armed, by whom they seek to make a party against me in mine own + country. He also hath taken to wife one Louiana, of a strong family, which + are borderers and neighbours; and myself now being old and in the hands of + death am not able to travel nor to shift as when I was of younger years.</i> + He therefore prayed us to defer it till the next year, when he would + undertake to draw in all the borderers to serve us, and then, also, it + would be more seasonable to travel; for at this time of the year we should + not be able to pass any river, the waters were and would be so grown ere + our return. + </p> + <p> + He farther told me that I could not desire so much to invade Macureguarai + and the rest of Guiana but that the borderers would be more vehement than + I. For he yielded for a chief cause that in the wars with the Epuremei + they were spoiled of their women, and that their wives and daughters were + taken from them; so as for their own parts they desired nothing of the + gold or treasure for their labours, but only to recover women from the + Epuremei. For he farther complained very sadly, as it had been a matter of + great consequence, that whereas they were wont to have ten or twelve + wives, they were now enforced to content themselves with three or four, + and that the lords of the Epuremei had fifty or a hundred. And in truth + they war more for women than either for gold or dominion. For the lords of + countries desire many children of their own bodies to increase their races + and kindreds, for in those consist their greatest trust and strength. + Divers of his followers afterwards desired me to make haste again, that + they might sack the Epuremei, and I asked them, of what? They answered, Of + their women for us, and their gold for you. For the hope of those many of + women they more desire the war than either for gold or for the recovery of + their ancient territories. For what between the subjects of Inga and the + Spaniards, those frontiers are grown thin of people; and also great + numbers are fled to other nations farther off for fear of the Spaniards. + </p> + <p> + After I received this answer of the old man, we fell into consideration + whether it had been of better advice to have entered Macureguarai, and to + have begun a war upon Inga at this time, yea, or no, if the time of the + year and all things else had sorted. For mine own part, as we were not + able to march it for the rivers, neither had any such strength as was + requisite, and durst not abide the coming of the winter, or to tarry any + longer from our ships, I thought it were evil counsel to have attempted it + at that time, although the desire for gold will answer many objections. + But it would have been, in mine opinion, an utter overthrow to the + enterprise, if the same should be hereafter by her Majesty attempted. For + then, whereas now they have heard we were enemies to the Spaniards and + were sent by her Majesty to relieve them, they would as good cheap have + joined with the Spaniards at our return, as to have yielded unto us, when + they had proved that we came both for one errand, and that both sought but + to sack and spoil them. But as yet our desire gold, or our purpose of + invasion, is not known to them of the empire. And it is likely that if her + Majesty undertake the enterprise they will rather submit themselves to her + obedience than to the Spaniards, of whose cruelty both themselves and the + borderers have already tasted. And therefore, till I had known her + Majesty's pleasure, I would rather have lost the sack of one or two towns, + although they might have been very profitable, than to have defaced or + endangered the future hope of so many millions, and the great good and + rich trade which England may be possessed of thereby. I am assured now + that they will all die, even to the last man, against the Spaniards in + hope of our succour and return. Whereas, otherwise, if I had either laid + hands on the borderers or ransomed the lords, as Berreo did, or invaded + the subjects of Inga, I know all had been lost for hereafter. + </p> + <p> + After that I had resolved Topiawari, lord of Aromaia, that I could not at + this time leave with him the companies he desired, and that I was + contented to forbear the enterprise against the Epuremei till the next + year, he freely gave me his only son to take with me into England; and + hoped that though he himself had but a short time to live, yet that by our + means his son should be established after his death. And I left with him + one Francis Sparrow, a servant of Captain Gifford, who was desirous to + tarry, and could describe a country with his pen, and a boy of mine called + Hugh Goodwin, to learn the language. I after asked the manner how the + Epuremei wrought those plates of gold, and how they could melt it out of + the stone. He told me that the most of the gold which they made in plates + and images was not severed from the stone, but that on the lake of Manoa, + and in a multitude of other rivers, they gathered it in grains of perfect + gold and in pieces as big as small stones, and they put it to a part of + copper, otherwise they could not work it; and that they used a great + earthen pot with holes round about it, and when they had mingled the gold + and copper together they fastened canes to the holes, and so with the + breath of men they increased the fire till the metal ran, and then they + cast it into moulds of stone and clay, and so make those plates and + images. I have sent your honours of two sorts such as I could by chance + recover, more to shew the manner of them than for the value. For I did not + in any sort make my desire of gold known, because I had neither time nor + power to have a great quantity. I gave among them many more pieces of gold + than I received, of the new money of twenty shillings with her Majesty's + picture, to wear, with promise that they would become her servants + thenceforth. + </p> + <p> + I have also sent your honours of the ore, whereof I know some is as rich + as the earth yieldeth any, of which I know there is sufficient, if nothing + else were to be hoped for. But besides that we were not able to tarry and + search the hills, so we had neither pioneers, bars, sledges, nor wedges of + iron to break the ground, without which there is no working in mines. But + we saw all the hills with stones of the colour of gold and silver, and we + tried them to be no marcasite, and therefore such as the Spaniards call El + madre del oro or "the mother of gold," which is an undoubted assurance of + the general abundance; and myself saw the outside of many mines of the + spar, which I know to be the same that all covet in this world, and of + those more than I will speak of. + </p> + <p> + Having learned what I could in Canuri and Aromaia, and received a faithful + promise of the principallest of those provinces to become servants to her + Majesty, and to resist the Spaniards if they made any attempt in our + absence, and that they would draw in the nations about the lake of Cassipa + and those of Iwarawaqueri, I then parted from old Topiawari, and received + his son for a pledge between us, and left with him two of ours as + aforesaid. To Francis Sparrow I gave instructions to travel to + Macureguarai with such merchandises as I left with them, thereby to learn + the place, and if it were possible, to go on to the great city of Manoa. + Which being done, we weighed anchor and coasted the river on Guiana side, + because we came upon the north side, by the lawns of the Saima and Wikiri. + </p> + <p> + There came with us from Aromaia a cacique called Putijma, that commanded + the province of Warapana, which Putijma slew the nine Spaniards upon + Caroli before spoken of; who desired us to rest in the port of his + country, promising to bring us unto a mountain adjoining to his town that + had stones of the colour of gold, which he performed. And after we had + rested there one night I went myself in the morning with most of the + gentlemen of my company over-land towards the said mountain, marching by a + river's side called Mana, leaving on the right hand a town called + Tuteritona, standing in the province of Tarracoa, of which Wariaaremagoto + is principal. Beyond it lieth another town towards the south, in the + valley of Amariocapana, which beareth the name of the said valley; whose + plains stretch themselves some sixty miles in length, east and west, as + fair ground and as beautiful fields as any man hath ever seen, with divers + copses scattered here and there by the river's side, and all as full of + deer as any forest or park in England, and in every lake and river the + like abundance of fish and fowl; of which Irraparragota is lord. + </p> + <p> + From the river of Mana we crossed another river in the said beautiful + valley called Oiana, and rested ourselves by a clear lake which lay in the + middle of the said Oiana; and one of our guides kindling us fire with two + sticks, we stayed awhile to dry our shirts, which with the heat hung very + wet and heavy on our shoulders. Afterwards we sought the ford to pass over + towards the mountain called Iconuri, where Putijma foretold us of the + mine. In this lake we saw one of the great fishes, as big as a wine pipe, + which they call manati, being most excellent and wholesome meat. But after + I perceived that to pass the said river would require half-a-day's march + more, I was not able myself to endure it, and therefore I sent Captain + Keymis with six shot to go on, and gave him order not to return to the + port of Putijma, which is called Chiparepare, but to take leisure, and to + march down the said valley as far as a river called Cumaca, where I + promised to meet him again, Putijma himself promising also to be his + guide. And as they marched, they left the towns of Emperapana and + Capurepana on the right hand, and marched from Putijma's house, down the + said valley of Amariocapana; and we returning the same day to the river's + side, saw by the way many rocks like unto gold ore, and on the left hand a + round mountain which consisted of mineral stone. + </p> + <p> + From hence we rowed down the stream, coasting the province of Parino. As + for the branches of rivers which I overpass in this discourse, those shall + be better expressed in the description, with the mountains of Aio, Ara, + and the rest, which are situate in the provinces of Parino and + Carricurrina. When we were come as far down as the land called Ariacoa, + where Orenoque divideth itself into three great branches, each of them + being most goodly rivers, I sent away Captain Henry Thyn, and Captain + Greenvile with the galley, the nearest way, and took with me Captain + Gifford, Captain Caulfield, Edward Porter, and Captain Eynos with mine own + barge and the two wherries, and went down that branch of Orenoque which is + called Cararoopana, which leadeth towards Emeria, the province of + Carapana, and towards the east sea, as well to find out Captain Keymis, + whom I had sent overland, as also to acquaint myself with Carapana, who is + one of the greatest of all the lords of the Orenoqueponi. And when I came + to the river of Cumaca, to which Putijma promised to conduct Captain + Keymis, I left Captain Eynos and Master Porter in the said river to expect + his coming, and the rest of us rowed down the stream towards Emeria. + </p> + <p> + In this branch called Cararoopana were also many goodly islands, some of + six miles long, some of ten, and some of twenty. When it grew towards + sunset, we entered a branch of a river that fell into Orenoque, called + Winicapora; where I was informed of the mountain of crystal, to which in + truth for the length of the way, and the evil season of the year, I was + not able to march, nor abide any longer upon the journey. We saw it afar + off; and it appeared like a white church-tower of an exceeding height. + There falleth over it a mighty river which toucheth no part of the side of + the mountain, but rusheth over the top of it, and falleth to the ground + with so terrible a noise and clamour, as if a thousand great bells were + knocked one against another. I think there is not in the world so strange + an overfall, nor so wonderful to behold. Berreo told me that there were + diamonds and other precious stones on it, and that they shined very far + off; but what it hath I know not, neither durst he or any of his men + ascend to the top of the said mountain, those people adjoining being his + enemies, as they were, and the way to it so impassable. + </p> + <p> + Upon this river of Winicapora we rested a while, and from thence marched + into the country to a town called after the name of the river, whereof the + captain was one Timitwara, who also offered to conduct me to the top of + the said mountain called Wacarima. But when we came in first to the house + of the said Timitwara, being upon one of their said feast days, we found + them all as drunk as beggars, and the pots walking from one to another + without rest. We that were weary and hot with marching were glad of the + plenty, though a small quantity satisfied us, their drink being very + strong and heady, and so rested ourselves awhile. After we had fed, we + drew ourselves back to our boats upon the river, and there came to us all + the lords of the country, with all such kind of victual as the place + yielded, and with their delicate wine of pinas, and with abundance of hens + and other provisions, and of those stones which we call spleen-stones. We + understood by these chieftains of Winicapora that their lord, Carapana, + was departed from Emeria, which was now in sight, and that he was fled to + Cairamo, adjoining to the mountains of Guiana, over the valley called + Amariocapana, being persuaded by those ten Spaniards which lay at his + house that we would destroy him and his country. But after these caciques + of Winicapora and Saporatona his followers perceived our purpose, and saw + that we came as enemies to the Spaniards only, and had not so much as + harmed any of those nations, no, though we found them to be of the + Spaniards' own servants, they assured us that Carapana would be as ready + to serve us as any of the lords of the provinces which we had passed; and + that he durst do no other till this day but entertain the Spaniards, his + country lying so directly in their way, and next of all other to any + entrance that should be made in Guiana on that side. And they further + assured us, that it was not for fear of our coming that he was removed, + but to be acquitted of the Spaniards or any other that should come + hereafter. For the province of Cairoma is situate at the mountain foot, + which divideth the plains of Guiana from the countries of the + Orenoqueponi; by means whereof if any should come in our absence into his + towns, he would slip over the mountains into the plains of Guiana among + the Epuremei, where the Spaniards durst not follow him without great + force. But in mine opinion, or rather I assure myself, that Carapana being + a notable wise and subtle fellow, a man of one hundred years of age and + therefore of great experience, is removed to look on, and if he find that + we return strong he will be ours; if not, he will excuse his departure to + the Spaniards, and say it was for fear of our coming. + </p> + <p> + We therefore thought it bootless to row so far down the stream, or to seek + any farther of this old fox; and therefore from the river of Waricapana, + which lieth at the entrance of Emeria, we returned again, and left to the + eastward those four rivers which fall from the mountains of Emeria into + Orenoque, which are Waracayari, Coirama, Akaniri, and Iparoma. Below those + four are also these branches and mouths of Orenoque, which fall into the + east sea, whereof the first is Araturi, the next Amacura, the third + Barima, the fourth Wana, the fifth Morooca, the sixth Paroma, the last + Wijmi. Beyond them there fall out of the land between Orenoque and Amazons + fourteen rivers, which I forbear to name, inhabited by the Arwacas and + Cannibals. + </p> + <p> + It is now time to return towards the north, and we found it a wearisome + way back from the borders of Emeria, to recover up again to the head of + the river Carerupana, by which we descended, and where we parted from the + galley, which I directed to take the next way to the port of Toparimaca, + by which we entered first. + </p> + <p> + All the night it was stormy and dark, and full of thunder and great + showers, so as we were driven to keep close by the banks in our small + boats, being all heartily afraid both of the billow and terrible current + of the river. By the next morning we recovered the mouth of the river of + Cumaca, where we left Captain Eynos and Edward Porter to attend the coming + of Captain Keymis overland; but when we entered the same, they had heard + no news of his arrival, which bred in us a great doubt what might become + of him. I rowed up a league or two farther into the river, shooting off + pieces all the way, that he might know of our being there; and the next + morning we heard them answer us also with a piece. We took them aboard us, + and took our leave of Putijma, their guide, who of all others most + lamented our departure, and offered to send his son with us into England, + if we could have stayed till he had sent back to his town. But our hearts + were cold to behold the great rage and increase of Orenoque, and therefore + departed, and turned toward the west, till we had recovered the parting of + the three branches aforesaid, that we might put down the stream after the + galley. + </p> + <p> + The next day we landed on the island of Assapano, which divideth the river + from that branch by which we sent down to Emeria, and there feasted + ourselves with that beast which is called armadillo, presented unto us + before at Winicapora. And the day following, we recovered the galley at + anchor at the port of Toparimaca, and the same evening departed with very + foul weather, and terrible thunder and showers, for the winter was come on + very far. The best was, we went no less than 100 miles a day down the + river; but by the way we entered it was impossible to return, for that the + river of Amana, being in the bottom of the bay of Guanipa, cannot be + sailed back by any means, both the breeze and current of the sea were so + forcible. And therefore we followed a branch of Orenoque called Capuri, + which entered into the sea eastward of our ships, to the end we might bear + with them before the wind; and it was not without need, for we had by that + way as much to cross of the main sea, after we came to the river's mouth, + as between Gravelin and Dover, in such boats as your honour hath heard. + </p> + <p> + To speak of what passed homeward were tedious, either to describe or name + any of the rivers, islands, or villages of the Tivitivas, which dwell on + trees; we will leave all those to the general map. And to be short, when + we were arrived at the sea-side, then grew our greatest doubt, and the + bitterest of all our journey forepassed; for I protest before God, that we + were in a most desperate estate. For the same night which we anchored in + the mouth of the river of Capuri, where it falleth into the sea, there + arose a mighty storm, and the river's mouth was at least a league broad, + so as we ran before night close under the land with our small boats, and + brought the galley as near as we could. But she had as much ado to live as + could be, and there wanted little of her sinking, and all those in her; + for mine own part, I confess I was very doubtful which way to take, either + to go over in the pestered (crowded) galley, there being but six foot + water over the sands for two leagues together, and that also in the + channel, and she drew five; or to adventure in so great a billow, and in + so doubtful weather, to cross the seas in my barge. The longer we tarried + the worse it was, and therefore I took Captain Gifford, Captain Caulfield, + and my cousin Greenvile into my barge; and after it cleared up about + midnight we put ourselves to God's keeping, and thrust out into the sea, + leaving the galley at anchor, who durst not adventure but by daylight. And + so, being all very sober and melancholy, one faintly cheering another to + shew courage, it pleased God that the next day about nine o'clock, we + descried the island of Trinidad; and steering for the nearest part of it, + we kept the shore till we came to Curiapan, where we found our ships at + anchor, than which there was never to us a more joyful sight. + </p> + <p> + Now that it hath pleased God to send us safe to our ships, it is time to + leave Guiana to the sun, whom they worship, and steer away towards the + north. I will, therefore, in a few words finish the discovery thereof. Of + the several nations which we found upon this discovery I will once again + make repetition, and how they are affected. At our first entrance into + Amana, which is one of the outlets of Orenoque, we left on the right hand + of us in the bottom of the bay, lying directly against Trinidad, a nation + of inhuman Cannibals, which inhabit the rivers of Guanipa and Berbeese. In + the same bay there is also a third river, which is called Areo, which + riseth on Paria side towards Cumana, and that river is inhabited with the + Wikiri, whose chief town upon the said river is Sayma. In this bay there + are no more rivers but these three before rehearsed and the four branches + of Amana, all which in the winter thrust so great abundance of water into + the sea, as the same is taken up fresh two or three leagues from the land. + In the passages towards Guiana, that is, in all those lands which the + eight branches of Orenoque fashion into islands, there are but one sort of + people, called Tivitivas, but of two castes, as they term them, the one + called Ciawani, the other Waraweeti, and those war one with another. + </p> + <p> + On the hithermost part of Orenoque, as at Toparimaca and Winicapora, those + are of a nation called Nepoios, and are the followers of Carapana, lord of + Emeria. Between Winicapora and the port of Morequito, which standeth in + Aromaia, and all those in the valley of Amariocapana are called + Orenoqueponi, and did obey Morequito and are now followers of Topiawari. + Upon the river of Caroli are the Canuri, which are governed by a woman who + is inheritrix of that province; who came far off to see our nation, and + asked me divers questions of her Majesty, being much delighted with the + discourse of her Majesty's greatness, and wondering at such reports as we + truly made of her Highness' many virtues. And upon the head of Caroli and + on the lake of Cassipa are the three strong nations of the Cassipagotos. + Right south into the land are the Capurepani and Emparepani, and beyond + those, adjoining to Macureguarai, the first city of Inga, are the + Iwarawakeri. All these are professed enemies to the Spaniards, and to the + rich Epuremei also. To the west of Caroli are divers nations of Cannibals + and of those Ewaipanoma without heads. Directly west are the Amapaias and + Anebas, which are also marvellous rich in gold. The rest towards Peru we + will omit. On the north of Orenoque, between it and the West Indies, are + the Wikiri, Saymi, and the rest before spoken of, all mortal enemies to + the Spaniards. On the south side of the main mouth of Orenoque are the + Arwacas; and beyond them, the Cannibals; and to the south of them, the + Amazons. + </p> + <p> + To make mention of the several beasts, birds, fishes, fruits, flowers, + gums, sweet woods, and of their several religions and customs, would for + the first require as many volumes as those of Gesnerus, and for the next + another bundle of Decades. The religion of the Epuremei is the same which + the Ingas, emperors of Peru, used, which may be read in Cieza and other + Spanish stories; how they believe the immortality of the soul, worship the + sun, and bury with them alive their best beloved wives and treasure, as + they likewise do in Pegu in the East Indies, and other places. The + Orenoqueponi bury not their wives with them, but their jewels, hoping to + enjoy them again. The Arwacas dry the bones of their lords, and their + wives and friends drink them in powder. In the graves of the Peruvians the + Spaniards found their greatest abundance of treasure. The like, also, is + to be found among these people in every province. They have all many + wives, and the lords five-fold to the common sort. Their wives never eat + with their husbands, nor among the men, but serve their husbands at meals + and afterwards feed by themselves. Those that are past their younger years + make all their bread and drink, and work their cotton-beds, and do all + else of service and labour; for the men do nothing but hunt, fish, play, + and drink, when they are out of the wars. + </p> + <p> + I will enter no further into discourse of their manners, laws, and + customs. And because I have not myself seen the cities of Inga I cannot + avow on my credit what I have heard, although it be very likely that the + emperor Inga hath built and erected as magnificent palaces in Guiana as + his ancestors did in Peru; which were for their riches and rareness most + marvellous, and exceeding all in Europe, and, I think, of the world, China + excepted, which also the Spaniards, which I had, assured me to be true, as + also the nations of the borderers, who, being but savages to those of the + inland, do cause much treasure to be buried with them. For I was informed + of one of the caciques of the valley of Amariocapana which had buried with + him a little before our arrival a chair of gold most curiously wrought, + which was made either in Macureguarai adjoining or in Manoa. But if we + should have grieved them in their religion at the first, before they had + been taught better, and have digged up their graves, we had lost them all. + And therefore I held my first resolution, that her Majesty should either + accept or refuse the enterprise ere anything should be done that might in + any sort hinder the same. And if Peru had so many heaps of gold, whereof + those Ingas were princes, and that they delighted so much therein, no + doubt but this which now liveth and reigneth in Manoa hath the same + humour, and, I am assured, hath more abundance of gold within his + territory than all Peru and the West Indies. + </p> + <p> + For the rest, which myself have seen, I will promise these things that + follow, which I know to be true. Those that are desirous to discover and + to see many nations may be satisfied within this river, which bringeth + forth so many arms and branches leading to several countries and + provinces, above 2,000 miles east and west and 800 miles south and north, + and of these the most either rich in gold or in other merchandises. The + common soldier shall here fight for gold, and pay himself, instead of + pence, with plates of half-a-foot broad, whereas he breaketh his bones in + other wars for provant and penury. Those commanders and chieftains that + shoot at honour and abundance shall find there more rich and beautiful + cities, more temples adorned with golden images, more sepulchres filled + with treasure, than either Cortes found in Mexico or Pizarro in Peru. And + the shining glory of this conquest will eclipse all those so far-extended + beams of the Spanish nation. There is no country which yieldeth more + pleasure to the inhabitants, either for those common delights of hunting, + hawking, fishing, fowling, and the rest, than Guiana doth; it hath so many + plains, clear rivers, and abundance of pheasants, partridges, quails, + rails, cranes, herons, and all other fowl; deer of all sorts, porks, + hares, lions, tigers, leopards, and divers other sorts of beasts, either + for chase or food. It hath a kind of beast called cama or anta (tapir), as + big as an English beef, and in great plenty. To speak of the several sorts + of every kind I fear would be troublesome to the reader, and therefore I + will omit them, and conclude that both for health, good air, pleasure, and + riches, I am resolved it cannot be equalled by any region either in the + east or west. Moreover the country is so healthful, as of an hundred + persons and more, which lay without shift most sluttishly, and were every + day almost melted with heat in rowing and marching, and suddenly wet again + with great showers, and did eat of all sorts of corrupt fruits, and made + meals of fresh fish without seasoning, of tortugas, of lagartos or + crocodiles, and of all sorts good and bad, without either order or + measure, and besides lodged in the open air every night, we lost not any + one, nor had one ill-disposed to my knowledge; nor found any calentura or + other of those pestilent diseases which dwell in all hot regions, and so + near the equinoctial line. + </p> + <p> + Where there is store of gold it is in effect needless to remember other + commodities for trade. But it hath, towards the south part of the river, + great quantities of brazil-wood, and divers berries that dye a most + perfect crimson and carnation; and for painting, all France, Italy, or the + East Indies yield none such. For the more the skin is washed, the fairer + the colour appeareth, and with which even those brown and tawny women spot + themselves and colour their cheeks. All places yield abundance of cotton, + of silk, of balsamum, and of those kinds most excellent and never known in + Europe, of all sorts of gums, of Indian pepper; and what else the + countries may afford within the land we know not, neither had we time to + abide the trial and search. The soil besides is so excellent and so full + of rivers, as it will carry sugar, ginger, and all those other commodities + which the West Indies have. + </p> + <p> + The navigation is short, for it may be sailed with an ordinary wind in six + weeks, and in the like time back again; and by the way neither lee-shore, + enemies' coast, rocks, nor sands. All which in the voyages to the West + Indies and all other places we are subject unto; as the channel of Bahama, + coming from the West Indies, cannot well be passed in the winter, and when + it is at the best, it is a perilous and a fearful place; the rest of the + Indies for calms and diseases very troublesome, and the sea about the + Bermudas a hellish sea for thunder, lightning, and storms. + </p> + <p> + This very year (1595) there were seventeen sail of Spanish ships lost in + the channel of Bahama, and the great Philip, like to have sunk at the + Bermudas, was put back to St. Juan de Puerto Rico; and so it falleth out + in that navigation every year for the most part. Which in this voyage are + not to be feared; for the time of year to leave England is best in July, + and the summer in Guiana is in October, November, December, January, + February, and March, and then the ships may depart thence in April, and so + return again into England in June. So as they shall never be subject to + winter weather, either coming, going, or staying there: which, for my + part, I take to be one of the greatest comforts and encouragements that + can be thought on, having, as I have done, tasted in this voyage by the + West Indies so many calms, so much heat, such outrageous gusts, such + weather, and contrary winds. + </p> + <p> + To conclude, Guiana is a country that hath yet her maidenhead, never + sacked, turned, nor wrought; the face of the earth hath not been torn, nor + the virtue and salt of the soil spent by manurance. The graves have not + been opened for gold, the mines not broken with sledges, nor their images + pulled down out of their temples. It hath never been entered by any army + of strength, and never conquered or possessed by any Christian prince. It + is besides so defensible, that if two forts be builded in one of the + provinces which I have seen, the flood setteth in so near the bank, where + the channel also lieth, that no ship can pass up but within a pike's + length of the artillery, first of the one, and afterwards of the other. + Which two forts will be a sufficient guard both to the empire of Inga, and + to an hundred other several kingdoms, lying within the said river, even to + the city of Quito in Peru. + </p> + <p> + There is therefore great difference between the easiness of the conquest + of Guiana, and the defence of it being conquered, and the West or East + Indies. Guiana hath but one entrance by the sea, if it hath that, for any + vessels of burden. So as whosoever shall first possess it, it shall be + found unaccessible for any enemy, except he come in wherries, barges, or + canoas, or else in flat-bottomed boats; and if he do offer to enter it in + that manner, the woods are so thick 200 miles together upon the rivers of + such entrance, as a mouse cannot sit in a boat unhit from the bank. By + land it is more impossible to approach; for it hath the strongest + situation of any region under the sun, and it is so environed with + impassable mountains on every side, as it is impossible to victual any + company in the passage. Which hath been well proved by the Spanish nation, + who since the conquest of Peru have never left five years free from + attempting this empire, or discovering some way into it; and yet of + three-and-twenty several gentlemen, knights, and noblemen, there was never + any that knew which way to lead an army by land, or to conduct ships by + sea, anything near the said country. Orellana, of whom the river of + Amazons taketh name, was the first, and Don Antonio de Berreo, whom we + displanted, the last: and I doubt much whether he himself or any of his + yet know the best way into the said empire. It can therefore hardly be + regained, if any strength be formerly set down, but in one or two places, + and but two or three crumsters (Dutch, Kromsteven or Kromster, a vessel + with a bent prow) or galleys built and furnished upon the river within. + The West Indies have many ports, watering places, and landings; and nearer + than 300 miles to Guiana, no man can harbour a ship, except he know one + only place, which is not learned in haste, and which I will undertake + there is not any one of my companies that knoweth, whosoever hearkened + most after it. + </p> + <p> + Besides, by keeping one good fort, or building one town of strength, the + whole empire is guarded; and whatsoever companies shall be afterwards + planted within the land, although in twenty several provinces, those shall + be able all to reunite themselves upon any occasion either by the way of + one river, or be able to march by land without either wood, bog, or + mountain. Whereas in the West Indies there are few towns or provinces that + can succour or relieve one the other by land or sea. By land the countries + are either desert, mountainous, or strong enemies. By sea, if any man + invade to the eastward, those to the west cannot in many months turn + against the breeze and eastern wind. Besides, the Spaniards are therein so + dispersed as they are nowhere strong, but in Nueva Espana only; the sharp + mountains, the thorns, and poisoned prickles, the sandy and deep ways in + the valleys, the smothering heat and air, and want of water in other + places are their only and best defence; which, because those nations that + invade them are not victualled or provided to stay, neither have any place + to friend adjoining, do serve them instead of good arms and great + multitudes. + </p> + <p> + The West Indies were first offered her Majesty's grandfather by Columbus, + a stranger, in whom there might be doubt of deceit; and besides it was + then thought incredible that there were such and so many lands and regions + never written of before. This Empire is made known to her Majesty by her + own vassal, and by him that oweth to her more duty than an ordinary + subject; so that it shall ill sort with the many graces and benefits which + I have received to abuse her Highness, either with fables or imaginations. + The country is already discovered, many nations won to her Majesty's love + and obedience, and those Spaniards which have latest and longest laboured + about the conquest, beaten out, discouraged, and disgraced, which among + these nations were thought invincible. Her Majesty may in this enterprise + employ all those soldiers and gentlemen that are younger brethren, and all + captains and chieftains that want employment, and the charge will be only + the first setting out in victualling and arming them; for after the first + or second year I doubt not but to see in London a Contractation-House (the + whole trade of Spanish America passed through the Casa de Contratacion at + Seville) of more receipt for Guiana than there is now in Seville for the + West Indies. + </p> + <p> + And I am resolved that if there were but a small army afoot in Guiana, + marching towards Manoa, the chief city of Inga, he would yield to her + Majesty by composition so many hundred thousand pounds yearly as should + both defend all enemies abroad, and defray all expenses at home; and that + he would besides pay a garrison of three or four thousand soldiers very + royally to defend him against other nations. For he cannot but know how + his predecessors, yea, how his own great uncles, Guascar and Atabalipa, + sons to Guiana-Capac, emperor of Peru, were, while they contended for the + empire, beaten out by the Spaniards, and that both of late years and ever + since the said conquest, the Spaniards have sought the passages and entry + of his country; and of their cruelties used to the borderers he cannot be + ignorant. In which respects no doubt but he will be brought to tribute + with great gladness; if not, he hath neither shot nor iron weapon in all + his empire, and therefore may easily be conquered. + </p> + <p> + And I further remember that Berreo confessed to me and others, which I + protest before the Majesty of God to be true, that there was found among + the prophecies in Peru, at such time as the empire was reduced to the + Spanish obedience, in their chiefest temples, amongst divers others which + foreshadowed the loss of the said empire, that from Inglatierra those + Ingas should be again in time to come restored, and delivered from the + servitude of the said conquerors. And I hope, as we with these few hands + have displanted the first garrison, and driven them out of the said + country, so her Majesty will give order for the rest, and either defend + it, and hold it as tributary, or conquer and keep it as empress of the + same. For whatsoever prince shall possess it, shall be greatest; and if + the king of Spain enjoy it, he will become unresistible. Her Majesty + hereby shall confirm and strengthen the opinions of all nations as + touching her great and princely actions. And where the south border of + Guiana reacheth to the dominion and empire of the Amazons, those women + shall hereby hear the name of a virgin, which is not only able to defend + her own territories and her neighbours, but also to invade and conquer so + great empires and so far removed. + </p> + <p> + To speak more at this time I fear would be but troublesome: I trust in + God, this being true, will suffice, and that he which is King of all + Kings, and Lord of Lords, will put it into her heart which is Lady of + Ladies to possess it. If not, I will judge those men worthy to be kings + thereof, that by her grace and leave will undertake it of themselves. + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Discovery of Guiana, by Sir Walter Raleigh + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE DISCOVERY OF GUIANA *** + +***** This file should be named 2272-h.htm or 2272-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/2/7/2272/ + +Produced by Dagny; John Bickers and David Widger + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Discovery of Guiana + +Author: Sir Walter Raleigh + +Release Date: March 25, 2006 [EBook #2272] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE DISCOVERY OF GUIANA *** + + + + +Produced by Dagny; and John Bickers + + + + + +THE DISCOVERY OF GUIANA + +By Sir Walter Raleigh + + + + +INTRODUCTORY NOTE + +Sir Walter Raleigh may be taken as the great typical figure of the age +of Elizabeth. Courtier and statesman, soldier and sailor, scientist +and man of letters, he engaged in almost all the main lines of public +activity in his time, and was distinguished in them all. + +His father was a Devonshire gentleman of property, connected with many +of the distinguished families of the south of England. Walter was born +about 1552 and was educated at Oxford. He first saw military service +in the Huguenot army in France in 1569, and in 1578 engaged, with his +half-brother, Sir Humphrey Gilbert, in the first of his expeditions +against the Spaniards. After some service in Ireland, he attracted the +attention of the Queen, and rapidly rose to the perilous position of her +chief favorite. With her approval, he fitted out two expeditions for the +colonization of Virginia, neither of which did his royal mistress permit +him to lead in person, and neither of which succeeded in establishing a +permanent settlement. + +After about six years of high favor, Raleigh found his position at +court endangered by the rivalry of Essex, and in 1592, on returning +from convoying a squadron he had fitted out against the Spanish, he was +thrown into the Tower by the orders of the Queen, who had discovered an +intrigue between him and one of her ladies whom he subsequently married. +He was ultimately released, engaged in various naval exploits, and in +1594 sailed for South America on the voyage described in the following +narrative. + +On the death of Elizabeth, Raleigh's misfortunes increased. He was +accused of treason against James I, condemned, reprieved, and imprisoned +for twelve years, during which he wrote his "History of the World," +and engaged in scientific researches. In 1616 he was liberated, to make +another attempt to find the gold mine in Venezuela; but the expedition +was disastrous, and, on his return, Raleigh was executed on the old +charge in 1618. In his vices as in his virtues, Raleigh is a thorough +representative of the great adventurers who laid the foundations of the +British Empire. + + + + + +RALEIGH'S DISCOVERY OF GUIANA + + +The Discovery of the large, rich, and beautiful EMPIRE Of GUIANA; with a +Relation of the great and golden CITY of MANOA, which the Spaniards +call EL DORADO, and the PROVINCES of EMERIA, AROMAIA, AMAPAIA, and other +Countries, with their rivers, adjoining. Performed in the year 1595 by +Sir WALTER RALEIGH, KNIGHT, CAPTAIN of her Majesty's GUARD, Lord Warden +of the STANNARIES, and her Highness' LIEUTENANT-GENERAL of the COUNTY of +CORNWALL. + + + +To the Right Honourable my singular good Lord and kinsman CHARLES +HOWARD, Knight of the Garter, Baron, and Councillor, and of the Admirals +of England the most renowned; and to the Right Honourable SIR ROBERT +CECIL, KNIGHT, Councillor in her Highness' Privy Councils. + + + +For your Honours' many honourable and friendly parts, I have hitherto +only returned promises; and now, for answer of both your adventures, +I have sent you a bundle of papers, which I have divided between your +Lordship and Sir Robert Cecil, in these two respects chiefly; first, for +that it is reason that wasteful factors, when they have consumed such +stocks as they had in trust, do yield some colour for the same in their +account; secondly, for that I am assured that whatsoever shall be done, +or written, by me, shall need a double protection and defence. The trial +that I had of both your loves, when I was left of all, but of malice and +revenge, makes me still presume that you will be pleased (knowing +what little power I had to perform aught, and the great advantage of +forewarned enemies) to answer that out of knowledge, which others shall +but object out of malice. In my more happy times as I did especially +honour you both, so I found that your loves sought me out in the darkest +shadow of adversity, and the same affection which accompanied my better +fortune soared not away from me in my many miseries; all which though I +cannot requite, yet I shall ever acknowledge; and the great debt which I +have no power to pay, I can do no more for a time but confess to be +due. It is true that as my errors were great, so they have yielded very +grievous effects; and if aught might have been deserved in former times, +to have counterpoised any part of offences, the fruit thereof, as it +seemeth, was long before fallen from the tree, and the dead stock only +remained. I did therefore, even in the winter of my life, undertake +these travails, fitter for bodies less blasted with misfortunes, for men +of greater ability, and for minds of better encouragement, that thereby, +if it were possible, I might recover but the moderation of excess, and +the least taste of the greatest plenty formerly possessed. If I had +known other way to win, if I had imagined how greater adventures might +have regained, if I could conceive what farther means I might yet use +but even to appease so powerful displeasure, I would not doubt but for +one year more to hold fast my soul in my teeth till it were performed. +Of that little remain I had, I have wasted in effect all herein. I have +undergone many constructions; I have been accompanied with many +sorrows, with labour, hunger, heat, sickness, and peril; it appeareth, +notwithstanding, that I made no other bravado of going to the sea, than +was meant, and that I was never hidden in Cornwall, or elsewhere, as +was supposed. They have grossly belied me that forejudged that I would +rather become a servant to the Spanish king than return; and the rest +were much mistaken, who would have persuaded that I was too easeful and +sensual to undertake a journey of so great travail. But if what I have +done receive the gracious construction of a painful pilgrimage, and +purchase the least remission, I shall think all too little, and that +there were wanting to the rest many miseries. But if both the times +past, the present, and what may be in the future, do all by one grain of +gall continue in eternal distaste, I do not then know whether I should +bewail myself, either for my too much travail and expense, or condemn +myself for doing less than that which can deserve nothing. From myself +I have deserved no thanks, for I am returned a beggar, and withered; +but that I might have bettered my poor estate, it shall appear from the +following discourse, if I had not only respected her Majesty's future +honour and riches. + +It became not the former fortune, in which I once lived, to go journeys +of picory (marauding); it had sorted ill with the offices of honour, +which by her Majesty's grace I hold this day in England, to run from +cape to cape and from place to place, for the pillage of ordinary +prizes. Many years since I had knowledge, by relation, of that mighty, +rich, and beautiful empire of Guiana, and of that great and golden city, +which the Spaniards call El Dorado, and the naturals Manoa, which +city was conquered, re-edified, and enlarged by a younger son of +Guayna-capac, Emperor of Peru, at such time as Francisco Pizarro and +others conquered the said empire from his two elder brethren, Guascar +and Atabalipa, both then contending for the same, the one being favoured +by the orejones of Cuzco, the other by the people of Caxamalca. I sent +my servant Jacob Whiddon, the year before, to get knowledge of the +passages, and I had some light from Captain Parker, sometime my servant, +and now attending on your Lordship, that such a place there was to the +southward of the great bay of Charuas, or Guanipa: but I found that it +was 600 miles farther off than they supposed, and many impediments to +them unknown and unheard. After I had displanted Don Antonio de Berreo, +who was upon the same enterprise, leaving my ships at Trinidad, at the +port called Curiapan, I wandered 400 miles into the said country by land +and river; the particulars I will leave to the following discourse. + +The country hath more quantity of gold, by manifold, than the best parts +of the Indies, or Peru. All the most of the kings of the borders are +already become her Majesty's vassals, and seem to desire nothing more +than her Majesty's protection and the return of the English nation. It +hath another ground and assurance of riches and glory than the voyages +of the West Indies; an easier way to invade the best parts thereof than +by the common course. The king of Spain is not so impoverished by taking +three or four port towns in America as we suppose; neither are the +riches of Peru or Nueva Espana so left by the sea side as it can be +easily washed away with a great flood, or spring tide, or left dry upon +the sands on a low ebb. The port towns are few and poor in respect of +the rest within the land, and are of little defence, and are only rich +when the fleets are to receive the treasure for Spain; and we might +think the Spaniards very simple, having so many horses and slaves, if +they could not upon two days' warning carry all the gold they have into +the land, and far enough from the reach of our footmen, especially the +Indies being, as they are for the most part, so mountainous, full +of woods, rivers, and marishes. In the port towns of the province of +Venezuela, as Cumana, Coro, and St. Iago (whereof Coro and St. Iago were +taken by Captain Preston, and Cumana and St. Josepho by us) we found +not the value of one real of plate in either. But the cities of +Barquasimeta, Valencia, St. Sebastian, Cororo, St. Lucia, Laguna, +Maracaiba, and Truxillo, are not so easily invaded. Neither doth the +burning of those on the coast impoverish the king of Spain any one +ducat; and if we sack the River of Hacha, St. Martha, and Carthagena, +which are the ports of Nuevo Reyno and Popayan, there are besides within +the land, which are indeed rich and prosperous, the towns and cities of +Merida, Lagrita, St. Christophoro, the great cities of Pamplona, Santa +Fe de Bogota, Tunxa, and Mozo, where the emeralds are found, the +towns and cities of Marequita, Velez, la Villa de Leiva, Palma, Honda, +Angostura, the great city of Timana, Tocaima, St. Aguila, Pasto, [St.] +Iago, the great city of Popayan itself, Los Remedios, and the rest. If +we take the ports and villages within the bay of Uraba in the kingdom +or rivers of Darien and Caribana, the cities and towns of St. Juan de +Rodas, of Cassaris, of Antiochia, Caramanta, Cali, and Anserma have gold +enough to pay the king's part, and are not easily invaded by way of +the ocean. Or if Nombre de Dios and Panama be taken, in the province of +Castilla del Oro, and the villages upon the rivers of Cenu and Chagre; +Peru hath, besides those, and besides the magnificent cities of Quito +and Lima, so many islands, ports, cities, and mines as if I should name +them with the rest it would seem incredible to the reader. Of all which, +because I have written a particular treatise of the West Indies, I will +omit the repetition at this time, seeing that in the said treatise I +have anatomized the rest of the sea towns as well of Nicaragua, Yucatan, +Nueva Espana, and the islands, as those of the inland, and by what means +they may be best invaded, as far as any mean judgment may comprehend. + +But I hope it shall appear that there is a way found to answer every +man's longing; a better Indies for her Majesty than the king of Spain +hath any; which if it shall please her Highness to undertake, I shall +most willingly end the rest of my days in following the same. If it be +left to the spoil and sackage of common persons, if the love and service +of so many nations be despised, so great riches and so mighty an empire +refused; I hope her Majesty will yet take my humble desire and my labour +therein in gracious part, which, if it had not been in respect of +her Highness' future honour and riches, could have laid hands on and +ransomed many of the kings and caciqui of the country, and have had a +reasonable proportion of gold for their redemption. But I have chosen +rather to bear the burden of poverty than reproach; and rather to endure +a second travail, and the chances thereof, than to have defaced an +enterprise of so great assurance, until I knew whether it pleased God +to put a disposition in her princely and royal heart either to follow +or forslow (neglect, decline, lose through sloth) the same. I will +therefore leave it to His ordinance that hath only power in all things; +and do humbly pray that your honours will excuse such errors as, without +the defence of art, overrun in every part the following discourse, in +which I have neither studied phrase, form, nor fashion; that you will be +pleased to esteem me as your own, though over dearly bought, and I shall +ever remain ready to do you all honour and service. + + + + +TO THE READER + +Because there have been divers opinions conceived of the gold ore +brought from Guiana, and for that an alderman of London and an officer +of her Majesty's mint hath given out that the same is of no price, I +have thought good by the addition of these lines to give answer as well +to the said malicious slander as to other objections. It is true that +while we abode at the island of Trinidad I was informed by an Indian +that not far from the port where we anchored there were found certain +mineral stones which they esteemed to be gold, and were thereunto +persuaded the rather for that they had seen both English and Frenchmen +gather and embark some quantities thereof. Upon this likelihood I sent +forty men, and gave order that each one should bring a stone of that +mine, to make trial of the goodness; which being performed, I assured +them at their return that the same was marcasite, and of no riches or +value. Notwithstanding, divers, trusting more to their own sense than to +my opinion, kept of the said marcasite, and have tried thereof since my +return, in divers places. In Guiana itself I never saw marcasite; but +all the rocks, mountains, all stones in the plains, woods, and by the +rivers' sides, are in effect thorough-shining, and appear marvellous +rich; which, being tried to be no marcasite, are the true signs of rich +minerals, but are no other than El madre del oro, as the Spaniards term +them, which is the mother of gold, or, as it is said by others, the scum +of gold. Of divers sorts of these many of my company brought also +into England, every one taking the fairest for the best, which is not +general. For mine own part, I did not countermand any man's desire or +opinion, and I could have afforded them little if I should have denied +them the pleasing of their own fancies therein; but I was resolved that +gold must be found either in grains, separate from the stone, as it is +in most of the rivers in Guiana, or else in a kind of hard stone, which +we call the white spar, of which I saw divers hills, and in sundry +places, but had neither time nor men, nor instruments fit for labour. +Near unto one of the rivers I found of the said white spar or flint a +very great ledge or bank, which I endeavoured to break by all the means +I could, because there appeared on the outside some small grains of +gold; but finding no mean to work the same upon the upper part, seeking +the sides and circuit of the said rock, I found a clift in the same, +from whence with daggers, and with the head of an axe, we got out some +small quantity thereof; of which kind of white stone, wherein gold +is engendered, we saw divers hills and rocks in every part of Guiana +wherein we travelled. Of this there have been made many trials; and in +London it was first assayed by Master Westwood, a refiner dwelling in +Wood Street, and it held after the rate of twelve or thirteen thousand +pounds a ton. Another sort was afterward tried by Master Bulmar, and +Master Dimock, assay-master; and it held after the rate of three and +twenty thousand pounds a ton. There was some of it again tried by Master +Palmer, Comptroller of the Mint, and Master Dimock in Goldsmith's Hall, +and it held after six and twenty thousand and nine hundred pounds a ton. +There was also at the same time, and by the same persons, a trial made +of the dust of the said mine; which held eight pounds and six ounces +weight of gold in the hundred. There was likewise at the same time a +trial of an image of copper made in Guiana, which held a third part +of gold, besides divers trials made in the country, and by others in +London. But because there came ill with the good, and belike the said +alderman was not presented with the best, it hath pleased him therefore +to scandal all the rest, and to deface the enterprise as much as in him +lieth. It hath also been concluded by divers that if there had been any +such ore in Guiana, and the same discovered, that I would have brought +home a greater quantity thereof. First, I was not bound to satisfy any +man of the quantity, but only such as adventured, if any store had been +returned thereof; but it is very true that had all their mountains been +of massy gold it was impossible for us to have made any longer stay to +have wrought the same; and whosoever hath seen with what strength of +stone the best gold ore is environed, he will not think it easy to +be had out in heaps, and especially by us, who had neither men, +instruments, nor time, as it is said before, to perform the same. + +There were on this discovery no less than an hundred persons, who can +all witness that when we passed any branch of the river to view the land +within, and stayed from our boats but six hours, we were driven to +wade to the eyes at our return; and if we attempted the same the day +following, it was impossible either to ford it, or to swim it, both by +reason of the swiftness, and also for that the borders were so pestered +with fast woods, as neither boat nor man could find place either to land +or to embark; for in June, July, August, and September it is impossible +to navigate any of those rivers; for such is the fury of the current, +and there are so many trees and woods overflown, as if any boat but +touch upon any tree or stake it is impossible to save any one person +therein. And ere we departed the land it ran with such swiftness as we +drave down, most commonly against the wind, little less than an hundred +miles a day. Besides, our vessels were no other than wherries, one +little barge, a small cock-boat, and a bad galiota which we framed in +haste for that purpose at Trinidad; and those little boats had nine or +ten men apiece, with all their victuals and arms. It is further true +that we were about four hundred miles from our ships, and had been a +month from them, which also we left weakly manned in an open road, and +had promised our return in fifteen days. + +Others have devised that the same ore was had from Barbary, and that we +carried it with us into Guiana. Surely the singularity of that device I +do not well comprehend. For mine own part, I am not so much in love with +these long voyages as to devise thereby to cozen myself, to lie hard, to +fare worse, to be subjected to perils, to diseases, to ill savours, to +be parched and withered, and withal to sustain the care and labour of +such an enterprise, except the same had more comfort than the fetching +of marcasite in Guiana, or buying of gold ore in Barbary. But I hope the +better sort will judge me by themselves, and that the way of deceit is +not the way of honour or good opinion. I have herein consumed much time, +and many crowns; and I had no other respect or desire than to serve her +Majesty and my country thereby. If the Spanish nation had been of like +belief to these detractors we should little have feared or doubted their +attempts, wherewith we now are daily threatened. But if we now consider +of the actions both of Charles the Fifth, who had the maidenhead of Peru +and the abundant treasures of Atabalipa, together with the affairs of +the Spanish king now living, what territories he hath purchased, what +he hath added to the acts of his predecessors, how many kingdoms he hath +endangered, how many armies, garrisons, and navies he hath, and doth +maintain, the great losses which he hath repaired, as in Eighty-eight +above an hundred sail of great ships with their artillery, and that no +year is less infortunate, but that many vessels, treasures, and people +are devoured, and yet notwithstanding he beginneth again like a storm +to threaten shipwrack to us all; we shall find that these abilities rise +not from the trades of sacks and Seville oranges, nor from aught else +that either Spain, Portugal, or any of his other provinces produce; it +is his Indian gold that endangereth and disturbeth all the nations of +Europe; it purchaseth intelligence, creepeth into counsels, and setteth +bound loyalty at liberty in the greatest monarchies of Europe. If +the Spanish king can keep us from foreign enterprises, and from the +impeachment of his trades, either by offer of invasion, or by besieging +us in Britain, Ireland, or elsewhere, he hath then brought the work of +our peril in great forwardness. + +Those princes that abound in treasure have great advantages over the +rest, if they once constrain them to a defensive war, where they are +driven once a year or oftener to cast lots for their own garments; and +from all such shall all trades and intercourse be taken away, to +the general loss and impoverishment of the kingdom and commonweal so +reduced. Besides, when our men are constrained to fight, it hath not the +like hope as when they are pressed and encouraged by the desire of +spoil and riches. Farther, it is to be doubted how those that in time +of victory seem to affect their neighbour nations will remain after +the first view of misfortunes or ill success; to trust, also, to the +doubtfulness of a battle is but a fearful and uncertain adventure, +seeing therein fortune is as likely to prevail as virtue. It shall not +be necessary to allege all that might be said, and therefore I will thus +conclude; that whatsoever kingdom shall be enforced to defend itself may +be compared to a body dangerously diseased, which for a season may be +preserved with vulgar medicines, but in a short time, and by little and +little, the same must needs fall to the ground and be dissolved. I have +therefore laboured all my life, both according to my small power and +persuasion, to advance all those attempts that might either promise +return of profit to ourselves, or at least be a let and impeachment to +the quiet course and plentiful trades of the Spanish nation; who, in my +weak judgement, by such a war were as easily endangered and brought from +his powerfulness as any prince in Europe, if it be considered from how +many kingdoms and nations his revenues are gathered, and those so weak +in their own beings and so far severed from mutual succour. But because +such a preparation and resolution is not to be hoped for in haste, +and that the time which our enemies embrace cannot be had again to +advantage, I will hope that these provinces, and that empire now by me +discovered, shall suffice to enable her Majesty and the whole kingdom +with no less quantities of treasure than the king of Spain hath in all +the Indies, East and West, which he possesseth; which if the same be +considered and followed, ere the Spaniards enforce the same, and if her +Majesty will undertake it, I will be contented to lose her Highness' +favour and good opinion for ever, and my life withal, if the same be +not found rather to exceed than to equal whatsoever is in this discourse +promised and declared. I will now refer the reader to the following +discourse, with the hope that the perilous and chargeable labours and +endeavours of such as thereby seek the profit and honour of her Majesty, +and the English nation, shall by men of quality and virtue receive such +construction and good acceptance as themselves would like to be rewarded +withal in the like. + + + + +THE DISCOVERY[*] OF GUIANA[+] + + [*] Exploration + + [+] The name is derived from the Guayano Indians, on the + Orinoco. + +On Thursday, the sixth of February, in the year 1595, we departed +England, and the Sunday following had sight of the north cape of Spain, +the wind for the most part continuing prosperous; we passed in sight of +the Burlings, and the Rock, and so onwards for the Canaries, and fell +with Fuerteventura the 17. of the same month, where we spent two or +three days, and relieved our companies with some fresh meat. From thence +we coasted by the Grand Canaria, and so to Teneriffe, and stayed there +for the Lion's Whelp, your Lordship's ship, and for Captain Amyas +Preston and the rest. But when after seven or eight days we found them +not, we departed and directed our course for Trinidad, with mine own +ship, and a small barque of Captain Cross's only; for we had before lost +sight of a small galego on the coast of Spain, which came with us from +Plymouth. We arrived at Trinidad the 22. of March, casting anchor +at Point Curiapan, which the Spaniards call Punta de Gallo, which is +situate in eight degrees or thereabouts. We abode there four or five +days, and in all that time we came not to the speech of any Indian or +Spaniard. On the coast we saw a fire, as we sailed from the Point Carao +towards Curiapan, but for fear of the Spaniards none durst come to speak +with us. I myself coasted it in my barge close aboard the shore and +landed in every cove, the better to know the island, while the ships +kept the channel. From Curiapan after a few days we turned up north-east +to recover that place which the Spaniards call Puerto de los Espanoles +(now Port of Spain), and the inhabitants Conquerabia; and as before, +revictualling my barge, I left the ships and kept by the shore, the +better to come to speech with some of the inhabitants, and also to +understand the rivers, watering-places, and ports of the island, which, +as it is rudely done, my purpose is to send your Lordship after a few +days. From Curiapan I came to a port and seat of Indians called Parico, +where we found a fresh water river, but saw no people. From thence +I rowed to another port, called by the naturals Piche, and by the +Spaniards Tierra de Brea. In the way between both were divers little +brooks of fresh water, and one salt river that had store of oysters upon +the branches of the trees, and were very salt and well tasted. All their +oysters grow upon those boughs and sprays, and not on the ground; the +like is commonly seen in other places of the West Indies, and elsewhere. +This tree is described by Andrew Thevet, in his France Antarctique, and +the form figured in the book as a plant very strange; and by Pliny in +his twelfth book of his Natural History. But in this island, as also in +Guiana, there are very many of them. + +At this point, called Tierra de Brea or Piche, there is that abundance +of stone pitch that all the ships of the world may be therewith laden +from thence; and we made trial of it in trimming our ships to be most +excellent good, and melteth not with the sun as the pitch of Norway, and +therefore for ships trading the south parts very profitable. From thence +we went to the mountain foot called Annaperima, and so passing the river +Carone, on which the Spanish city was seated, we met with our ships at +Puerto de los Espanoles or Conquerabia. + +This island of Trinidad hath the form of a sheephook, and is but narrow; +the north part is very mountainous; the soil is very excellent, and will +bear sugar, ginger, or any other commodity that the Indies yield. It +hath store of deer, wild porks, fruit, fish, and fowl; it hath also for +bread sufficient maize, cassavi, and of those roots and fruits which are +common everywhere in the West Indies. It hath divers beasts which the +Indies have not; the Spaniards confessed that they found grains of gold +in some of the rivers; but they having a purpose to enter Guiana, the +magazine of all rich metals, cared not to spend time in the search +thereof any further. This island is called by the people thereof Cairi, +and in it are divers nations. Those about Parico are called Jajo, those +at Punta de Carao are of the Arwacas (Arawaks) and between Carao and +Curiapan they are called Salvajos. Between Carao and Punta de Galera +are the Nepojos, and those about the Spanish city term themselves +Carinepagotes (Carib-people). Of the rest of the nations, and of +other ports and rivers, I leave to speak here, being impertinent to my +purpose, and mean to describe them as they are situate in the particular +plot and description of the island, three parts whereof I coasted with +my barge, that I might the better describe it. + +Meeting with the ships at Puerto de los Espanoles, we found at the +landing-place a company of Spaniards who kept a guard at the descent; +and they offering a sign of peace, I sent Captain Whiddon to speak with +them, whom afterwards to my great grief I left buried in the said island +after my return from Guiana, being a man most honest and valiant. The +Spaniards seemed to be desirous to trade with us, and to enter into +terms of peace, more for doubt of their own strength than for aught +else; and in the end, upon pledge, some of them came aboard. The same +evening there stale also aboard us in a small canoa two Indians, the one +of them being a cacique or lord of the people, called Cantyman, who had +the year before been with Captain Whiddon, and was of his acquaintance. +By this Cantyman we understood what strength the Spaniards had, how far +it was to their city, and of Don Antonio de Berreo, the governor, who +was said to be slain in his second attempt of Guiana, but was not. + +While we remained at Puerto de los Espanoles some Spaniards came aboard +us to buy linen of the company, and such other things as they wanted, +and also to view our ships and company, all which I entertained kindly +and feasted after our manner. By means whereof I learned of one and +another as much of the estate of Guiana as I could, or as they knew; for +those poor soldiers having been many years without wine, a few draughts +made them merry, in which mood they vaunted of Guiana and the riches +thereof, and all what they knew of the ways and passages; myself seeming +to purpose nothing less than the entrance or discovery thereof, but bred +in them an opinion that I was bound only for the relief of those English +which I had planted in Virginia, whereof the bruit was come among them; +which I had performed in my return, if extremity of weather had not +forced me from the said coast. + +I found occasions of staying in this place for two causes. The one was +to be revenged of Berreo, who the year before, 1594, had betrayed eight +of Captain Whiddon's men, and took them while he departed from them to +seek the Edward Bonaventure, which arrived at Trinidad the day before +from the East Indies: in whose absence Berreo sent a canoa aboard the +pinnace only with Indians and dogs inviting the company to go with them +into the woods to kill a deer. Who like wise men, in the absence of +their captain followed the Indians, but were no sooner one arquebus +shot from the shore, but Berreo's soldiers lying in ambush had them all, +notwithstanding that he had given his word to Captain Whiddon that they +should take water and wood safely. The other cause of my stay was, for +that by discourse with the Spaniards I daily learned more and more of +Guiana, of the rivers and passages, and of the enterprise of Berreo, by +what means or fault he failed, and how he meant to prosecute the same. + +While we thus spent the time I was assured by another cacique of the +north side of the island, that Berreo had sent to Margarita and Cumana +for soldiers, meaning to have given me a cassado (blow) at parting, if +it had been possible. For although he had given order through all the +island that no Indian should come aboard to trade with me upon pain of +hanging and quartering (having executed two of them for the same, +which I afterwards found), yet every night there came some with most +lamentable complaints of his cruelty: how he had divided the island and +given to every soldier a part; that he made the ancient caciques, which +were lords of the country, to be their slaves; that he kept them in +chains, and dropped their naked bodies with burning bacon, and such +other torments, which I found afterwards to be true. For in the city, +after I entered the same, there were five of the lords or little kings, +which they call caciques in the West Indies, in one chain, almost dead +of famine, and wasted with torments. These are called in their own +language acarewana, and now of late since English, French, and Spanish, +are come among them, they call themselves captains, because they +perceive that the chiefest of every ship is called by that name. +Those five captains in the chain were called Wannawanare, Carroaori, +Maquarima, Tarroopanama, and Aterima. So as both to be revenged of the +former wrong, as also considering that to enter Guiana by small boats, +to depart 400 or 500 miles from my ships, and to leave a garrison in my +back interested in the same enterprise, who also daily expected supplies +out of Spain, I should have savoured very much of the ass; and therefore +taking a time of most advantage, I set upon the Corps du garde in +the evening, and having put them to the sword, sent Captain Caulfield +onwards with sixty soldiers, and myself followed with forty more, and so +took their new city, which they called St. Joseph, by break of day. They +abode not any fight after a few shot, and all being dismissed, but +only Berreo and his companion (the Portuguese captain Alvaro Jorge), I +brought them with me aboard, and at the instance of the Indians I set +their new city of St. Joseph on fire. The same day arrived Captain +George Gifford with your lordship's ship, and Captain Keymis, whom +I lost on the coast of Spain, with the galego, and in them divers +gentlemen and others, which to our little army was a great comfort and +supply. + +We then hasted away towards our purposed discovery, and first I called +all the captains of the island together that were enemies to the +Spaniards; for there were some which Berreo had brought out of other +countries, and planted there to eat out and waste those that were +natural of the place. And by my Indian interpreter, which I carried out +of England, I made them understand that I was the servant of a queen who +was the great cacique of the north, and a virgin, and had more caciqui +under her than there were trees in that island; that she was an enemy to +the Castellani in respect of their tyranny and oppression, and that she +delivered all such nations about her, as were by them oppressed; and +having freed all the coast of the northern world from their servitude, +had sent me to free them also, and withal to defend the country of +Guiana from their invasion and conquest. I shewed them her Majesty's +picture, which they so admired and honoured, as it had been easy to have +brought them idolatrous thereof. The like and a more large discourse +I made to the rest of the nations, both in my passing to Guiana and to +those of the borders, so as in that part of the world her Majesty +is very famous and admirable; whom they now call EZRABETA CASSIPUNA +AQUEREWANA, which is as much as 'Elizabeth, the Great Princess, or +Greatest Commander.' This done, we left Puerto de los Espanoles, and +returned to Curiapan, and having Berreo my prisoner, I gathered from him +as much of Guiana as he knew. This Berreo is a gentleman well descended, +and had long served the Spanish king in Milan, Naples, the Low +Countries, and elsewhere, very valiant and liberal, and a gentleman of +great assuredness, and of a great heart. I used him according to his +estate and worth in all things I could, according to the small means I +had. + +I sent Captain Whiddon the year before to get what knowledge he could of +Guiana: and the end of my journey at this time was to discover and enter +the same. But my intelligence was far from truth, for the country is +situate about 600 English miles further from the sea than I was made +believe it had been. Which afterwards understanding to be true by +Berreo, I kept it from the knowledge of my company, who else would never +have been brought to attempt the same. Of which 600 miles I passed 400, +leaving my ships so far from me at anchor in the sea, which was more of +desire to perform that discovery than of reason, especially having such +poor and weak vessels to transport ourselves in. For in the bottom of +an old galego which I caused to be fashioned like a galley, and in one +barge, two wherries, and a ship-boat of the Lion's Whelp, we carried 100 +persons and their victuals for a month in the same, being all driven +to lie in the rain and weather in the open air, in the burning sun, and +upon the hard boards, and to dress our meat, and to carry all manner of +furniture in them. Wherewith they were so pestered and unsavoury, that +what with victuals being most fish, with the wet clothes of so many men +thrust together, and the heat of the sun, I will undertake there was +never any prison in England that could be found more unsavoury and +loathsome, especially to myself, who had for many years before been +dieted and cared for in a sort far more differing. + +If Captain Preston had not been persuaded that he should have come too +late to Trinidad to have found us there (for the month was expired which +I promised to tarry for him there ere he could recover the coast of +Spain) but that it had pleased God he might have joined with us, and +that we had entered the country but some ten days sooner ere the rivers +were overflown, we had adventured either to have gone to the great city +of Manoa, or at least taken so many of the other cities and towns nearer +at hand, as would have made a royal return. But it pleased not God so +much to favour me at this time. If it shall be my lot to prosecute the +same, I shall willingly spend my life therein. And if any else shall +be enabled thereunto, and conquer the same, I assure him thus much; he +shall perform more than ever was done in Mexico by Cortes, or in Peru by +Pizarro, whereof the one conquered the empire of Mutezuma, the other +of Guascar and Atabalipa. And whatsoever prince shall possess it, that +prince shall be lord of more gold, and of a more beautiful empire, and +of more cities and people, than either the king of Spain or the Great +Turk. + +But because there may arise many doubts, and how this empire of Guiana +is become so populous, and adorned with so many great cities, towns, +temples, and treasures, I thought good to make it known, that the +emperor now reigning is descended from those magnificent princes +of Peru, of whose large territories, of whose policies, conquests, +edifices, and riches, Pedro de Cieza, Francisco Lopez, and others have +written large discourses. For when Francisco Pizarro, Diego Almagro +and others conquered the said empire of Peru, and had put to death +Atabalipa, son to Guayna Capac, which Atabalipa had formerly caused his +eldest brother Guascar to be slain, one of the younger sons of Guayna +Capac fled out of Peru, and took with him many thousands of those +soldiers of the empire called orejones ("having large ears," the name +given by the Spaniards to the Peruvian warriors, who wore ear-pendants), +and with those and many others which followed him, he vanquished all +that tract and valley of America which is situate between the great +river of Amazons and Baraquan, otherwise called Orenoque and Maranon +(Baraquan is the alternative name to Orenoque, Maranon to Amazons). + +The empire of Guiana is directly east from Peru towards the sea, and +lieth under the equinoctial line; and it hath more abundance of gold +than any part of Peru, and as many or more great cities than ever Peru +had when it flourished most. It is governed by the same laws, and the +emperor and people observe the same religion, and the same form and +policies in government as were used in Peru, not differing in any part. +And I have been assured by such of the Spaniards as have seen Manoa, the +imperial city of Guiana, which the Spaniards call El Dorado, that +for the greatness, for the riches, and for the excellent seat, it far +exceedeth any of the world, at least of so much of the world as is known +to the Spanish nation. It is founded upon a lake of salt water of 200 +leagues long, like unto Mare Caspium. And if we compare it to that of +Peru, and but read the report of Francisco Lopez and others, it will +seem more than credible; and because we may judge of the one by the +other, I thought good to insert part of the 120. chapter of Lopez in +his General History of the Indies, wherein he describeth the court and +magnificence of Guayna Capac, ancestor to the emperor of Guiana, whose +very words are these:-- + +"Todo el servicio de su casa, mesa, y cocina era de oro y de plata, +y cuando menos de plata y cobre, por mas recio. Tenia en su recamara +estatuas huecas de oro, que parescian gigantes, y las figuras al propio +y tamano de cuantos animales, aves, arboles, y yerbas produce la tierra, +y de cuantos peces cria la mar y agua de sus reynos. Tenia asimesmo +sogas, costales, cestas, y troxes de oro y plata; rimeros de palos de +oro, que pareciesen lena rajada para quemar. En fin no habia cosa en su +tierra, que no la tuviese de oro contrahecha; y aun dizen, que tenian +los Ingas un verjel en una isla cerca de la Puna, donde se iban a +holgar, cuando querian mar, que tenia la hortaliza, las flores, y +arboles de oro y plata; invencion y grandeza hasta entonces nunca vista. +Allende de todo esto, tenia infinitisima cantidad de plata y oro por +labrar en el Cuzco, que se perdio por la muerte de Guascar; ca los +Indios lo escondieron, viendo que los Espanoles se lo tomaban, y +enviaban a Espana." + +That is, "All the vessels of his house, table, and kitchen, were of +gold and silver, and the meanest of silver and copper for strength and +hardness of metal. He had in his wardrobe hollow statues of gold which +seemed giants, and the figures in proportion and bigness of all the +beasts, birds, trees, and herbs, that the earth bringeth forth; and of +all the fishes that the sea or waters of his kingdom breedeth. He had +also ropes, budgets, chests, and troughs of gold and silver, heaps of +billets of gold, that seemed wood marked out (split into logs) to +burn. Finally, there was nothing in his country whereof he had not +the counterfeit in gold. Yea, and they say, the Ingas had a garden of +pleasure in an island near Puna, where they went to recreate themselves, +when they would take the air of the sea, which had all kinds of +garden-herbs, flowers, and trees of gold and silver; an invention and +magnificence till then never seen. Besides all this, he had an infinite +quantity of silver and gold unwrought in Cuzco, which was lost by the +death of Guascar, for the Indians hid it, seeing that the Spaniards took +it, and sent it into Spain." + +And in the 117. chapter; Francisco Pizarro caused the gold and silver of +Atabalipa to be weighed after he had taken it, which Lopez setteth down +in these words following:--"Hallaron cincuenta y dos mil marcos de buena +plata, y un millon y trecientos y veinte y seis mil y quinientos +pesos de oro." Which is, "They found 52,000 marks of good silver, and +1,326,500 pesos of gold." Now, although these reports may seem strange, +yet if we consider the many millions which are daily brought out of +Peru into Spain, we may easily believe the same. For we find that by the +abundant treasure of that country the Spanish king vexes all the princes +of Europe, and is become, in a few years, from a poor king of Castile, +the greatest monarch of this part of the world, and likely every day to +increase if other princes forslow the good occasions offered, and suffer +him to add this empire to the rest, which by far exceedeth all the rest. +If his gold now endanger us, he will then be unresistible. Such of the +Spaniards as afterwards endeavoured the conquest thereof, whereof there +have been many, as shall be declared hereafter, thought that this Inga, +of whom this emperor now living is descended, took his way by the river +of Amazons, by that branch which is called Papamene (The Papamene is a +tributary not of the Amazon river but of the Meta, one of the principal +tributaries of the Orinoco). For by that way followed Orellana, by the +commandment of Gonzalo Pizarro, in the year 1542, whose name the river +also beareth this day. Which is also by others called Maranon, although +Andrew Thevet doth affirm that between Maranon and Amazons there are 120 +leagues; but sure it is that those rivers have one head and beginning, +and the Maranon, which Thevet describeth, is but a branch of Amazons or +Orellana, of which I will speak more in another place. It was attempted +by Ordas; but it is now little less than 70 years since that Diego +Ordas, a Knight of the Order of Santiago, attempted the same; and it was +in the year 1542 that Orellana discovered the river of Amazons; but the +first that ever saw Manoa was Juan Martinez, master of the munition +to Ordas. At a port called Morequito (probably San Miguel), in Guiana, +there lieth at this day a great anchor of Ordas his ship. And this port +is some 300 miles within the land, upon the great river of Orenoque. +I rested at this port four days, twenty days after I left the ships at +Curiapan. + +The relation of this Martinez, who was the first that discovered Manoa, +his success, and end, is to be seen in the Chancery of St. Juan de +Puerto Rico, whereof Berreo had a copy, which appeared to be the +greatest encouragement as well to Berreo as to others that formerly +attempted the discovery and conquest. Orellana, after he failed of the +discovery of Guiana by the said river of Amazons, passed into Spain, and +there obtained a patent of the king for the invasion and conquest, but +died by sea about the islands; and his fleet being severed by tempest, +the action for that time proceeded not. Diego Ordas followed the +enterprise, and departed Spain with 600 soldiers and thirty horse. Who, +arriving on the coast of Guiana, was slain in a mutiny, with the most +part of such as favoured him, as also of the rebellious part, insomuch +as his ships perished and few or none returned; neither was it certainly +known what became of the said Ordas until Berreo found the anchor of his +ship in the river of Orenoque; but it was supposed, and so it is written +by Lopez, that he perished on the seas, and of other writers diversely +conceived and reported. And hereof it came that Martinez entered so far +within the land, and arrived at that city of Inga the emperor; for it +chanced that while Ordas with his army rested at the port of Morequito +(who was either the first or second that attempted Guiana), by some +negligence the whole store of powder provided for the service was set +on fire, and Martinez, having the chief charge, was condemned by the +General Ordas to be executed forthwith. Martinez, being much favoured by +the soldiers, had all the means possible procured for his life; but it +could not be obtained in other sort than this, that he should be set +into a canoa alone, without any victual, only with his arms, and so +turned loose into the great river. But it pleased God that the canoa was +carried down the stream, and certain of the Guianians met it the same +evening; and, having not at any time seen any Christian nor any man of +that colour, they carried Martinez into the land to be wondered at, and +so from town to town, until he came to the great city of Manoa, the seat +and residence of Inga the emperor. The emperor, after he had beheld him, +knew him to be a Christian, for it was not long before that his brethren +Guascar and Atabalipa were vanquished by the Spaniards in Peru: and +caused him to be lodged in his palace, and well entertained. He lived +seven months in Manoa, but was not suffered to wander into the country +anywhere. He was also brought thither all the way blindfold, led by the +Indians, until he came to the entrance of Manoa itself, and was fourteen +or fifteen days in the passage. He avowed at his death that he entered +the city at noon, and then they uncovered his face; and that he +travelled all that day till night through the city, and the next day +from sun rising to sun setting, ere he came to the palace of Inga. After +that Martinez had lived seven months in Manoa, and began to understand +the language of the country, Inga asked him whether he desired to return +into his own country, or would willingly abide with him. But Martinez, +not desirous to stay, obtained the favour of Inga to depart; with whom +he sent divers Guianians to conduct him to the river of Orenoque, all +loaden with as much gold as they could carry, which he gave to Martinez +at his departure. But when he was arrived near the river's side, the +borderers which are called Orenoqueponi (poni is a Carib postposition +meaning "on") robbed him and his Guianians of all the treasure (the +borderers being at that time at wars, which Inga had not conquered) save +only of two great bottles of gourds, which were filled with beads of +gold curiously wrought, which those Orenoqueponi thought had been +no other thing than his drink or meat, or grain for food, with which +Martinez had liberty to pass. And so in canoas he fell down from the +river of Orenoque to Trinidad, and from thence to Margarita, and so to +St. Juan del Puerto Rico; where, remaining a long time for passage into +Spain, he died. In the time of his extreme sickness, and when he was +without hope of life, receiving the sacrament at the hands of his +confessor, he delivered these things, with the relation of his travels, +and also called for his calabazas or gourds of the gold beads, which he +gave to the church and friars, to be prayed for. + +This Martinez was he that christened the city of Manoa by the name of El +Dorado, and, as Berreo informed me, upon this occasion, those Guianians, +and also the borderers, and all other in that tract which I have seen, +are marvellous great drunkards; in which vice I think no nation can +compare with them; and at the times of their solemn feasts, when the +emperor carouseth with his captains, tributaries, and governors, the +manner is thus. All those that pledge him are first stripped naked and +their bodies anointed all over with a kind of white balsamum (by them +called curca), of which there is great plenty, and yet very dear amongst +them, and it is of all other the most precious, whereof we have had good +experience. When they are anointed all over, certain servants of the +emperor, having prepared gold made into fine powder, blow it through +hollow canes upon their naked bodies, until they be all shining from +the foot to the head; and in this sort they sit drinking by twenties +and hundreds, and continue in drunkenness sometimes six or seven days +together. The same is also confirmed by a letter written into Spain +which was intercepted, which Master Robert Dudley told me he had seen. +Upon this sight, and for the abundance of gold which he saw in the city, +the images of gold in their temples, the plates, armours, and shields of +gold which they use in the wars, he called it El Dorado. + +After the death of Ordas and Martinez, and after Orellana, who was +employed by Gonzalo Pizarro, one Pedro de Orsua, a knight of Navarre, +attempted Guiana, taking his way into Peru, and built his brigandines +upon a river called Oia, which riseth to the southward of Quito, and +is very great. This river falleth into Amazons, by which Orsua with +his companies descended, and came out of that province which is called +Motilones ("friars"--Indians so named from their cropped heads); and +it seemeth to me that this empire is reserved for her Majesty and the +English nation, by reason of the hard success which all these and other +Spaniards found in attempting the same, whereof I will speak briefly, +though impertinent in some sort to my purpose. This Pedro de Orsua had +among his troops a Biscayan called Aguirre, a man meanly born, who bare +no other office than a sergeant or alferez (al-faris, Arab.--horseman, +mounted officer): but after certain months, when the soldiers were +grieved with travels and consumed with famine, and that no entrance +could be found by the branches or body of Amazons, this Aguirre raised +a mutiny, of which he made himself the head, and so prevailed as he put +Orsua to the sword and all his followers, taking on him the whole charge +and commandment, with a purpose not only to make himself emperor of +Guiana, but also of Peru and of all that side of the West Indies. He had +of his party 700 soldiers, and of those many promised to draw in other +captains and companies, to deliver up towns and forts in Peru; but +neither finding by the said river any passage into Guiana, nor any +possibility to return towards Peru by the same Amazons, by reason that +the descent of the river made so great a current, he was enforced to +disemboque at the mouth of the said Amazons, which cannot be less than +1,000 leagues from the place where they embarked. From thence he coasted +the land till he arrived at Margarita to the north of Mompatar, which is +at this day called Puerto de Tyranno, for that he there slew Don Juan +de Villa Andreda, Governor of Margarita, who was father to Don Juan +Sarmiento, Governor of Margarita when Sir John Burgh landed there and +attempted the island. Aguirre put to the sword all other in the island +that refused to be of his party, and took with him certain cimarrones +(fugitive slaves) and other desperate companions. From thence he went to +Cumana and there slew the governor, and dealt in all as at Margarita. +He spoiled all the coast of Caracas and the province of Venezuela and of +Rio de la Hacha; and, as I remember, it was the same year that Sir John +Hawkins sailed to St. Juan de Ullua in the Jesus of Lubeck; for himself +told me that he met with such a one upon the coast, that rebelled, and +had sailed down all the river of Amazons. Aguirre from thence landed +about Santa Marta and sacked it also, putting to death so many as +refused to be his followers, purposing to invade Nuevo Reyno de Granada +and to sack Pamplona, Merida, Lagrita, Tunja, and the rest of the cities +of Nuevo Reyno, and from thence again to enter Peru; but in a fight in +the said Nuevo Reyno he was overthrown, and, finding no way to escape, +he first put to the sword his own children, foretelling them that they +should not live to be defamed or upbraided by the Spaniards after his +death, who would have termed them the children of a traitor or tyrant; +and that, sithence he could not make them princes, he would yet deliver +them from shame and reproach. These were the ends and tragedies of +Ordas, Martinez, Orellana, Orsua, and Aguirre. Also soon after Ordas +followed Jeronimo Ortal de Saragosa, with 130 soldiers; who failing his +entrance by sea, was cast with the current on the coast of Paria, and +peopled about S. Miguel de Neveri. It was then attempted by Don Pedro +de Silva, a Portuguese of the family of Ruy Gomez de Silva, and by the +favour which Ruy Gomez had with the king he was set out. But he also +shot wide of the mark; for being departed from Spain with his fleet, he +entered by Maranon or Amazons, where by the nations of the river and +by the Amazons, he was utterly overthrown, and himself and all his army +defeated; only seven escaped, and of those but two returned. + +After him came Pedro Hernandez de Serpa, and landed at Cumana, in the +West Indies, taking his journey by land towards Orenoque, which may be +some 120 leagues; but ere he came to the borders of the said river, he +was set upon by a nation of the Indians, called Wikiri, and overthrown +in such sort, that of 300 soldiers, horsemen, many Indians, and negroes, +there returned but eighteen. Others affirm that he was defeated in the +very entrance of Guiana, at the first civil town of the empire called +Macureguarai. Captain Preston, in taking Santiago de Leon (which was by +him and his companies very resolutely performed, being a great town, and +far within the land) held a gentleman prisoner, who died in his ship, +that was one of the company of Hernandez de Serpa, and saved among those +that escaped; who witnessed what opinion is held among the Spaniards +thereabouts of the great riches of Guiana, and El Dorado, the city of +Inga. Another Spaniard was brought aboard me by Captain Preston, who +told me in the hearing of himself and divers other gentlemen, that he +met with Berreo's campmaster at Caracas, when he came from the borders +of Guiana, and that he saw with him forty of most pure plates of gold, +curiously wrought, and swords of Guiana decked and inlaid with gold, +feathers garnished with gold, and divers rarities, which he carried to +the Spanish king. + +After Hernandez de Serpa, it was undertaken by the Adelantado, Don +Gonzalez Ximenes de Quesada, who was one of the chiefest in the conquest +of Nuevo Reyno, whose daughter and heir Don Antonio de Berreo married. +Gonzalez sought the passage also by the river called Papamene, which +riseth by Quito, in Peru, and runneth south-east 100 leagues, and then +falleth into Amazons. But he also, failing the entrance, returned with +the loss of much labour and cost. I took one Captain George, a Spaniard, +that followed Gonzalez in this enterprise. Gonzalez gave his daughter to +Berreo, taking his oath and honour to follow the enterprise to the last +of his substance and life. Who since, as he hath sworn to me, hath spent +300,000 ducats in the same, and yet never could enter so far into the +land as myself with that poor troop, or rather a handful of men, being +in all about 100 gentlemen, soldiers, rowers, boat-keepers, boys, and of +all sorts; neither could any of the forepassed undertakers, nor Berreo +himself, discover the country, till now lately by conference with an +ancient king, called Carapana (Caribana, Carib land, was an old European +name for the Atlantic coast near the mouth of the Orinoco, and hence was +applied to one of its chiefs. Berrio called this district "Emeria"), +he got the true light thereof. For Berreo came about 1,500 miles ere he +understood aught, or could find any passage or entrance into any part +thereof; yet he had experience of all these fore-named, and divers +others, and was persuaded of their errors and mistakings. Berreo sought +it by the river Cassanar, which falleth into a great river called Pato: +Pato falleth into Meta, and Meta into Baraquan, which is also called +Orenoque. He took his journey from Nuevo Reyno de Granada, where he +dwelt, having the inheritance of Gonzalez Ximenes in those parts; he was +followed with 700 horse, he drove with him 1,000 head of cattle, he had +also many women, Indians, and slaves. How all these rivers cross and +encounter, how the country lieth and is bordered, the passage of Ximenes +and Berreo, mine own discovery, and the way that I entered, with all the +rest of the nations and rivers, your lordship shall receive in a large +chart or map, which I have not yet finished, and which I shall most +humbly pray your lordship to secrete, and not to suffer it to pass +your own hands; for by a draught thereof all may be prevented by other +nations; for I know it is this very year sought by the French, although +by the way that they now take, I fear it not much. It was also told me +ere I departed England, that Villiers, the Admiral, was in preparation +for the planting of Amazons, to which river the French have made divers +voyages, and returned much gold and other rarities. I spake with a +captain of a French ship that came from thence, his ship riding in +Falmouth the same year that my ships came first from Virginia; there was +another this year in Helford, that also came from thence, and had been +fourteen months at an anchor in Amazons; which were both very rich. + +Although, as I am persuaded, Guiana cannot be entered that way, yet no +doubt the trade of gold from thence passeth by branches of rivers into +the river of Amazons, and so it doth on every hand far from the country +itself; for those Indians of Trinidad have plates of gold from Guiana, +and those cannibals of Dominica which dwell in the islands by which our +ships pass yearly to the West Indies, also the Indians of Paria, those +Indians called Tucaris, Chochi, Apotomios, Cumanagotos, and all those +other nations inhabiting near about the mountains that run from Paria +through the province of Venezuela, and in Maracapana, and the cannibals +of Guanipa, the Indians called Assawai, Coaca, Ajai, and the rest (all +which shall be described in my description as they are situate) have +plates of gold of Guiana. And upon the river of Amazons, Thevet writeth +that the people wear croissants of gold, for of that form the Guianians +most commonly make them; so as from Dominica to Amazons, which is above +250 leagues, all the chief Indians in all parts wear of those plates of +Guiana. Undoubtedly those that trade Amazons return much gold, which +(as is aforesaid) cometh by trade from Guiana, by some branch of a river +that falleth from the country into Amazons, and either it is by the +river which passeth by the nations called Tisnados, or by Caripuna. + +I made enquiry amongst the most ancient and best travelled of the +Orenoqueponi, and I had knowledge of all the rivers between Orenoque and +Amazons, and was very desirous to understand the truth of those warlike +women, because of some it is believed, of others not. And though I +digress from my purpose, yet I will set down that which hath been +delivered me for truth of those women, and I spake with a cacique, or +lord of people, that told me he had been in the river, and beyond it +also. The nations of these women are on the south side of the river in +the provinces of Topago, and their chiefest strengths and retracts +are in the islands situate on the south side of the entrance, some 60 +leagues within the mouth of the said river. The memories of the like +women are very ancient as well in Africa as in Asia. In Africa those +that had Medusa for queen; others in Scythia, near the rivers of Tanais +and Thermodon. We find, also, that Lampedo and Marthesia were queens of +the Amazons. In many histories they are verified to have been, and in +divers ages and provinces; but they which are not far from Guiana do +accompany with men but once in a year, and for the time of one month, +which I gather by their relation, to be in April; and that time all +kings of the borders assemble, and queens of the Amazons; and after the +queens have chosen, the rest cast lots for their valentines. This one +month they feast, dance, and drink of their wines in abundance; and the +moon being done they all depart to their own provinces. They are said +to be very cruel and bloodthirsty, especially to such as offer to invade +their territories. These Amazons have likewise great store of these +plates of gold, which they recover by exchange chiefly for a kind of +green stones, which the Spaniards call piedras hijadas, and we use for +spleen-stones (stones reduced to powder and taken internally to cure +maladies of the spleen); and for the disease of the stone we also +esteem them. Of these I saw divers in Guiana; and commonly every king +or cacique hath one, which their wives for the most part wear, and they +esteem them as great jewels. + +But to return to the enterprise of Berreo, who, as I have said, departed +from Nuevo Reyno with 700 horse, besides the provisions above rehearsed. +He descended by the river called Cassanar, which riseth in Nuevo Reyno +out of the mountains by the city of Tunja, from which mountain also +springeth Pato; both which fall into the great river of Meta, and Meta +riseth from a mountain joining to Pamplona, in the same Nuevo Reyno de +Granada. These, as also Guaiare, which issueth out of the mountains by +Timana, fall all into Baraquan, and are but of his heads; for at their +coming together they lose their names, and Baraquan farther down is also +rebaptized by the name of Orenoque. On the other side of the city and +hills of Timana riseth Rio Grande, which falleth into the sea by Santa +Marta. By Cassanar first, and so into Meta, Berreo passed, keeping his +horsemen on the banks, where the country served them for to march; and +where otherwise, he was driven to embark them in boats which he builded +for the purpose, and so came with the current down the river of Meta, +and so into Baraquan. After he entered that great and mighty river, he +began daily to lose of his companies both men and horse; for it is in +many places violently swift, and hath forcible eddies, many sands, +and divers islands sharp pointed with rocks. But after one whole year, +journeying for the most part by river, and the rest by land, he grew +daily to fewer numbers; from both by sickness, and by encountering with +the people of those regions through which he travelled, his companies +were much wasted, especially by divers encounters with the Amapaians +(Amapaia was Berrio's name for the Orinoco valley above the Caura +river). And in all this time he never could learn of any passage into +Guiana, nor any news or fame thereof, until he came to a further border +of the said Amapaia, eight days' journey from the river Caroli (the +Caroni river, the first great affluent of the Orinoco on the south, +about 180 miles from the sea), which was the furthest river that he +entered. Among those of Amapaia, Guiana was famous; but few of these +people accosted Berreo, or would trade with him the first three months +of the six which he sojourned there. This Amapaia is also marvellous +rich in gold, as both Berreo confessed and those of Guiana with whom I +had most conference; and is situate upon Orenoque also. In this country +Berreo lost sixty of his best soldiers, and most of all his horse that +remained in his former year's travel. But in the end, after divers +encounters with those nations, they grew to peace, and they presented +Berreo with ten images of fine gold among divers other plates and +croissants, which, as he sware to me, and divers other gentlemen, were +so curiously wrought, as he had not seen the like either in Italy, +Spain, or the Low Countries; and he was resolved that when they came +to the hands of the Spanish king, to whom he had sent them by his +camp-master, they would appear very admirable, especially being wrought +by such a nation as had no iron instruments at all, nor any of those +helps which our goldsmiths have to work withal. The particular name of +the people in Amapaia which gave him these pieces, are called Anebas, +and the river of Orenoque at that place is about twelve English miles +broad, which may be from his outfall into the sea 700 or 800 miles. + +This province of Amapaia is a very low and a marish ground near the +river; and by reason of the red water which issueth out in small +branches through the fenny and boggy ground, there breed divers +poisonful worms and serpents. And the Spaniards not suspecting, nor in +any sort foreknowing the danger, were infected with a grievous kind of +flux by drinking thereof, and even the very horses poisoned therewith; +insomuch as at the end of the six months that they abode there, of all +their troops there were not left above 120 soldiers, and neither horse +nor cattle. For Berreo hoped to have found Guiana be 1,000 miles nearer +than it fell out to be in the end; by means whereof they sustained much +want, and much hunger, oppressed with grievous diseases, and all the +miseries that could be imagined. I demanded of those in Guiana that had +travelled Amapaia, how they lived with that tawny or red water when +they travelled thither; and they told me that after the sun was near the +middle of the sky, they used to fill their pots and pitchers with that +water, but either before that time or towards the setting of the sun +it was dangerous to drink of, and in the night strong poison. I learned +also of divers other rivers of that nature among them, which were +also, while the sun was in the meridian, very safe to drink, and in the +morning, evening, and night, wonderful dangerous and infective. From +this province Berreo hasted away as soon as the spring and beginning of +summer appeared, and sought his entrance on the borders of Orenoque +on the south side; but there ran a ledge of so high and impassable +mountains, as he was not able by any means to march over them, +continuing from the east sea into which Orenoque falleth, even to Quito +in Peru. Neither had he means to carry victual or munition over those +craggy, high, and fast hills, being all woody, and those so thick and +spiny, and so full or prickles, thorns, and briars, as it is impossible +to creep through them. He had also neither friendship among the people, +nor any interpreter to persuade or treat with them; and more, to his +disadvantage, the caciques and kings of Amapaia had given knowledge of +his purpose to the Guianians, and that he sought to sack and conquer the +empire, for the hope of their so great abundance and quantities of gold. +He passed by the mouths of many great rivers which fell into Orenoque +both from the north and south, which I forbear to name, for tediousness, +and because they are more pleasing in describing than reading. + +Berreo affirmed that there fell an hundred rivers into Orenoque from +the north and south: whereof the least was as big as Rio Grande (the +Magdalena), that passed between Popayan and Nuevo Reyno de Granada, Rio +Grande being esteemed one of the renowned rivers in all the West Indies, +and numbered among the great rivers of the world. But he knew not the +names of any of these, but Caroli only; neither from what nations they +descended, neither to what provinces they led, for he had no means to +discourse with the inhabitants at any time; neither was he curious in +these things, being utterly unlearned, and not knowing the east from the +west. But of all these I got some knowledge, and of many more, partly by +mine own travel, and the rest by conference; of some one I learned one, +of others the rest, having with me an Indian that spake many languages, +and that of Guiana (the Carib) naturally. I sought out all the aged men, +and such as were greatest travellers. And by the one and the other I +came to understand the situations, the rivers, the kingdoms from the +east sea to the borders of Peru, and from Orenoque southward as far as +Amazons or Maranon, and the regions of Marinatambal (north coasts of +Brazil), and of all the kings of provinces, and captains of towns +and villages, how they stood in terms of peace or war, and which were +friends or enemies the one with the other; without which there can be +neither entrance nor conquest in those parts, nor elsewhere. For by the +dissension between Guascar and Atabalipa, Pizarro conquered Peru, and by +the hatred that the Tlaxcallians bare to Mutezuma, Cortes was victorious +over Mexico; without which both the one and the other had failed of +their enterprise, and of the great honour and riches which they attained +unto. + +Now Berreo began to grow into despair, and looked for no other success +than his predecessor in this enterprise; until such time as he arrived +at the province of Emeria towards the east sea and mouth of the river, +where he found a nation of people very favourable, and the country full +of all manner of victual. The king of this land is called Carapana, a +man very wise, subtle, and of great experience, being little less than +an hundred years old. In his youth he was sent by his father into the +island of Trinidad, by reason of civil war among themselves, and was +bred at a village in that island, called Parico. At that place in his +youth he had seen many Christians, both French and Spanish, and went +divers times with the Indians of Trinidad to Margarita and Cumana, in +the West Indies, for both those places have ever been relieved with +victual from Trinidad: by reason whereof he grew of more understanding, +and noted the difference of the nations, comparing the strength and arms +of his country with those of the Christians, and ever after temporised +so as whosoever else did amiss, or was wasted by contention, Carapana +kept himself and his country in quiet and plenty. He also held peace +with the Caribs or cannibals, his neighbours, and had free trade with +all nations, whosoever else had war. + +Berreo sojourned and rested his weak troop in the town of Carapana +six weeks, and from him learned the way and passage to Guiana, and +the riches and magnificence thereof. But being then utterly unable to +proceed, he determined to try his fortune another year, when he had +renewed his provisions, and regathered more force, which he hoped for +as well out of Spain as from Nuevo Reyno, where he had left his son +Don Antonio Ximenes to second him upon the first notice given of his +entrance; and so for the present embarked himself in canoas, and by +the branches of Orenoque arrived at Trinidad, having from Carapana +sufficient pilots to conduct him. From Trinidad he coasted Paria, and so +recovered Margarita; and having made relation to Don Juan Sarmiento, the +Governor, of his proceeding, and persuaded him of the riches of Guiana, +he obtained from thence fifty soldiers, promising presently to return +to Carapana, and so into Guiana. But Berreo meant nothing less at that +time; for he wanted many provisions necessary for such an enterprise, +and therefore departed from Margarita, seated himself in Trinidad, and +from thence sent his camp-master and his sergeant-major back to the +borders to discover the nearest passage into the empire, as also to +treat with the borderers, and to draw them to his party and love; +without which, he knew he could neither pass safely, nor in any sort be +relieved with victual or aught else. Carapana directed his company to a +king called Morequito, assuring them that no man could deliver so much +Guiana as Morequito could, and that his dwelling was but five days' +journey from Macureguarai, the first civil town of Guiana. + +Now your lordship shall understand that this Morequito, one of the +greatest lords or kings of the borders of Guiana, had two or three years +before been at Cumana and at Margarita, in the West Indies, with great +store of plates of gold, which he carried to exchange for such other +things as he wanted in his own country, and was daily feasted, and +presented by the governors of those places, and held amongst them some +two months. In which time one Vides, Governor of Cumana, won him to be +his conductor into Guiana, being allured by those croissants and images +of gold which he brought with him to trade, as also by the ancient fame +and magnificence of El Dorado; whereupon Vides sent into Spain for a +patent to discover and conquer Guiana, not knowing of the precedence of +Berreo's patent; which, as Berreo affirmeth, was signed before that +of Vidas. So as when Vides understood of Berreo and that he had made +entrance into that territory, and foregone his desire and hope, it was +verily thought that Vides practised with Morequito to hinder and disturb +Berreo in all he could, and not to suffer him to enter through his +seignory, nor any of his companies; neither to victual, nor guide them +in any sort. For Vides, Governor of Cumana, and Berreo, were become +mortal enemies, as well for that Berreo had gotten Trinidad into his +patent with Guiana, as also in that he was by Berreo prevented in the +journey of Guiana itself. Howsoever it was, I know not, but Morequito +for a time dissembled his disposition, suffered ten Spaniards and a +friar, which Berreo had sent to discover Manoa, to travel through his +country, gave them a guide for Macureguarai, the first town of civil and +apparelled people, from whence they had other guides to bring them to +Manoa, the great city of Inga; and being furnished with those things +which they had learned of Carapana were of most price in Guiana, went +onward, and in eleven days arrived at Manoa, as Berreo affirmeth for +certain; although I could not be assured thereof by the lord which now +governeth the province of Morequito, for he told me that they got all +the gold they had in other towns on this side Manoa, there being +many very great and rich, and (as he said) built like the towns of +Christians, with many rooms. + +When these ten Spaniards were returned, and ready to put out of the +border of Aromaia (the district below the Caroni river), the people of +Morequito set upon them, and slew them all but one that swam the river, +and took from them to the value of 40,000 pesos of gold; and one of them +only lived to bring the news to Berreo, that both his nine soldiers and +holy father were benighted in the said province. I myself spake with the +captains of Morequito that slew them, and was at the place where it was +executed. Berreo, enraged herewithal, sent all the strength he could +make into Aromaia, to be revenged of him, his people, and country. But +Morequito, suspecting the same, fled over Orenoque, and through the +territories of the Saima and Wikiri recovered Cumana, where he thought +himself very safe, with Vides the governor. But Berreo sending for him +in the king's name, and his messengers finding him in the house of one +Fajardo, on the sudden, ere he was suspected, so as he could not then be +conveyed away, Vides durst not deny him, as well to avoid the suspicion +of the practice, as also for that an holy father was slain by him and +his people. Morequito offered Fajardo the weight of three quintals in +gold, to let him escape; but the poor Guianian, betrayed on all sides, +was delivered to the camp-master of Berreo, and was presently executed. + +After the death of this Morequito, the soldiers of Berreo spoiled his +territory and took divers prisoners. Among others they took the uncle +of Morequito, called Topiawari, who is now king of Aromaia, whose son +I brought with me into England, and is a man of great understanding +and policy; he is above an hundred years old, and yet is of a very able +body. The Spaniards led him in a chain seventeen days, and made him +their guide from place to place between his country and Emeria, the +province of Carapana aforesaid, and he was at last redeemed for an +hundred plates of gold, and divers stones called piedras hijadas, +or spleen-stones. Now Berreo for executing of Morequito, and other +cruelties, spoils, and slaughters done in Aromaia, hath lost the love of +the Orenoqueponi, and of all the borderers, and dare not send any of his +soldiers any further into the land than to Carapana, which he called +the port of Guiana; but from thence by the help of Carapana he had trade +further into the country, and always appointed ten Spaniards to reside +in Carapana's town (the Spanish settlement of Santo Tome de la Guyana, +founded by Berrio in 1591 or 1592, but represented by Raleigh as an +Indian pueblo), by whose favour, and by being conducted by his people, +those ten searched the country thereabouts, as well for mines as for +other trades and commodities. + +They also have gotten a nephew of Morequito, whom they have christened +and named Don Juan, of whom they have great hope, endeavouring by all +means to establish him in the said province. Among many other trades, +those Spaniards used canoas to pass to the rivers of Barema, Pawroma, +and Dissequebe (Essequibo), which are on the south side of the mouth of +Orenoque, and there buy women and children from the cannibals, which are +of that barbarous nature, as they will for three or four hatchets +sell the sons and daughters of their own brethren and sisters, and for +somewhat more even their own daughters. Hereof the Spaniards make great +profit; for buying a maid of twelve or thirteen years for three or four +hatchets, they sell them again at Margarita in the West Indies for fifty +and an hundred pesos, which is so many crowns. + +The master of my ship, John Douglas, took one of the canoas which came +laden from thence with people to be sold, and the most of them escaped; +yet of those he brought, there was one as well favoured and as well +shaped as ever I saw any in England; and afterwards I saw many of them, +which but for their tawny colour may be compared to any in Europe. They +also trade in those rivers for bread of cassavi, of which they buy +an hundred pound weight for a knife, and sell it at Margarita for ten +pesos. They also recover great store of cotton, Brazil wood, and those +beds which they call hamacas or Brazil beds, wherein in hot countries +all the Spaniards use to lie commonly, and in no other, neither did we +ourselves while we were there. By means of which trades, for ransom of +divers of the Guianians, and for exchange of hatchets and knives, Berreo +recovered some store of gold plates, eagles of gold, and images of men +and divers birds, and dispatched his camp-master for Spain, with all +that he had gathered, therewith to levy soldiers, and by the show +thereof to draw others to the love of the enterprise. And having sent +divers images as well of men as beasts, birds, and fishes, so curiously +wrought in gold, he doubted not but to persuade the king to yield to him +some further help, especially for that this land hath never been sacked, +the mines never wrought, and in the Indies their works were well spent, +and the gold drawn out with great labour and charge. He also despatched +messengers to his son in Nuevo Reyno to levy all the forces he could, +and to come down the river Orenoque to Emeria, the province of Carapana, +to meet him; he had also sent to Santiago de Leon on the coast of the +Caracas, to buy horses and mules. + +After I had thus learned of his proceedings past and purposed, I told +him that I had resolved to see Guiana, and that it was the end of my +journey, and the cause of my coming to Trinidad, as it was indeed, +and for that purpose I sent Jacob Whiddon the year before to get +intelligence: with whom Berreo himself had speech at that time, and +remembered how inquisitive Jacob Whiddon was of his proceedings, and of +the country of Guiana. Berreo was stricken into a great melancholy and +sadness, and used all the arguments he could to dissuade me; and also +assured the gentlemen of my company that it would be labour lost, and +that they should suffer many miseries if they proceeded. And first he +delivered that I could not enter any of the rivers with any bark or +pinnace, or hardly with any ship's boat, it was so low, sandy, and full +of flats, and that his companies were daily grounded in their canoes, +which drew but twelve inches water. He further said that none of the +country would come to speak with us, but would all fly; and if we +followed them to their dwellings, they would burn their own towns. And +besides that, the way was long, the winter at hand, and that the rivers +beginning once to swell, it was impossible to stem the current; and that +we could not in those small boats by any means carry victuals for half +the time, and that (which indeed most discouraged my company) the kings +and lords of all the borders of Guiana had decreed that none of them +should trade with any Christians for gold, because the same would be +their own overthrow, and that for the love of gold the Christians meant +to conquer and dispossess them of all together. + +Many and the most of these I found to be true; but yet I resolving to +make trial of whatsoever happened, directed Captain George Gifford, my +Vice-Admiral, to take the Lion's Whelp, and Captain Caulfield his bark, +to turn to the eastward, against the mouth of a river called Capuri, +whose entrance I had before sent Captain Whiddon and John Douglas the +master to discover. Who found some nine foot water or better upon the +flood, and five at low water: to whom I had given instructions that they +should anchor at the edge of the shoal, and upon the best of the flood +to thrust over, which shoal John Douglas buoyed and beckoned (beaconed) +for them before. But they laboured in vain; for neither could they turn +it up altogether so far to the east, neither did the flood continue so +long, but the water fell ere they could have passed the sands. As we +after found by a second experience: so as now we must either give over +our enterprise, or leaving our ships at adventure 400 mile behind us, +must run up in our ship's boats, one barge, and two wherries. But being +doubtful how to carry victuals for so long a time in such baubles, or +any strength of men, especially for that Berreo assured us that his son +must be by that time come down with many soldiers, I sent away one King, +master of the Lion's Whelp, with his ship-boat, to try another branch of +the river in the bottom of the Bay of Guanipa, which was called Amana, +to prove if there were water to be found for either of the small ships +to enter. But when he came to the mouth of Amana, he found it as the +rest, but stayed not to discover it thoroughly, because he was assured +by an Indian, his guide, that the cannibals of Guanipa would assail them +with many canoas, and that they shot poisoned arrows; so as if he hasted +not back, they should all be lost. + +In the meantime, fearing the worst, I caused all the carpenters we had +to cut down a galego boat, which we meant to cast off, and to fit her +with banks to row on, and in all things to prepare her the best they +could, so as she might be brought to draw but five foot: for so much we +had on the bar of Capuri at low water. And doubting of King's return, +I sent John Douglas again in my long barge, as well to relieve him, as +also to make a perfect search in the bottom of the bay; for it hath been +held for infallible, that whatsoever ship or boat shall fall therein can +never disemboque again, by reason of the violent current which setteth +into the said bay, as also for that the breeze and easterly wind bloweth +directly into the same. Of which opinion I have heard John Hampton +(Captain of the Minion in the third voyage of Hawkins), of Plymouth, +one of the greatest experience of England, and divers other besides that +have traded to Trinidad. + +I sent with John Douglas an old cacique of Trinidad for a pilot, who +told us that we could not return again by the bay or gulf, but that +he knew a by-branch which ran within the land to the eastward, and he +thought by it we might fall into Capuri, and so return in four days. +John Douglas searched those rivers, and found four goodly entrances, +whereof the least was as big as the Thames at Woolwich, but in the +bay thitherward it was shoal and but six foot water; so as we were now +without hope of any ship or bark to pass over, and therefore resolved to +go on with the boats, and the bottom of the galego, in which we thrust +60 men. In the Lion's Whelp's boat and wherry we carried twenty, Captain +Caulfield in his wherry carried ten more, and in my barge other ten, +which made up a hundred; we had no other means but to carry victual for +a month in the same, and also to lodge therein as we could, and to boil +and dress our meat. Captain Gifford had with him Master Edward Porter, +Captain Eynos, and eight more in his wherry, with all their victual, +weapons, and provisions. Captain Caulfield had with him my cousin +Butshead Gorges, and eight more. In the galley, of gentlemen and +officers myself had Captain Thyn, my cousin John Greenvile, my nephew +John Gilbert, Captain Whiddon, Captain Keymis, Edward Hancock, Captain +Clarke, Lieutenant Hughes, Thomas Upton, Captain Facy, Jerome Ferrar, +Anthony Wells, William Connock, and above fifty more. We could not learn +of Berreo any other way to enter but in branches so far to windward as +it was impossible for us to recover; for we had as much sea to cross +over in our wherries, as between Dover and Calice, and in a great +hollow, the wind and current being both very strong. So as we were +driven to go in those small boats directly before the wind into the +bottom of the Bay of Guanipa, and from thence to enter the mouth of some +one of those rivers which John Douglas had last discovered; and had +with us for pilot an Indian of Barema, a river to the south of Orenoque, +between that and Amazons, whose canoas we had formerly taken as he +was going from the said Barema, laden with cassavi bread to sell at +Margarita. This Arwacan promised to bring me into the great river of +Orenoque; but indeed of that which he entered he was utterly ignorant, +for he had not seen it in twelve years before, at which time he was very +young, and of no judgment. And if God had not sent us another help, we +might have wandered a whole year in that labyrinth of rivers, ere we had +found any way, either out or in, especially after we were past ebbing +and flowing, which was in four days. For I know all the earth doth not +yield the like confluence of streams and branches, the one crossing +the other so many times, and all so fair and large, and so like one to +another, as no man can tell which to take: and if we went by the sun or +compass, hoping thereby to go directly one way or other, yet that way we +were also carried in a circle amongst multitudes of islands, and every +island so bordered with high trees as no man could see any further than +the breadth of the river, or length of the breach. But this it chanced, +that entering into a river (which because it had no name, we called the +River of the Red Cross, ourselves being the first Christians that ever +came therein), the 22. of May, as we were rowing up the same, we espied +a small canoa with three Indians, which by the swiftness of my barge, +rowing with eight oars, I overtook ere they could cross the river. The +rest of the people on the banks, shadowed under the thick wood, gazed +on with a doubtful conceit what might befall those three which we had +taken. But when they perceived that we offered them no violence, neither +entered their canoa with any of ours, nor took out of the canoa any +of theirs, they then began to show themselves on the bank's side, and +offered to traffic with us for such things as they had. And as we drew +near, they all stayed; and we came with our barge to the mouth of a +little creek which came from their town into the great river. + +As we abode here awhile, our Indian pilot, called Ferdinando, would +needs go ashore to their village to fetch some fruits and to drink of +their artificial wines, and also to see the place and know the lord of +it against another time, and took with him a brother of his which he had +with him in the journey. When they came to the village of these people +the lord of the island offered to lay hands on them, purposing to +have slain them both; yielding for reason that this Indian of ours had +brought a strange nation into their territory to spoil and destroy them. +But the pilot being quick and of a disposed body, slipt their fingers +and ran into the woods, and his brother, being the better footman of the +two, recovered the creek's mouth, where we stayed in our barge, crying +out that his brother was slain. With that we set hands on one of them +that was next us, a very old man, and brought him into the barge, +assuring him that if we had not our pilot again we would presently cut +off his head. This old man, being resolved that he should pay the loss +of the other, cried out to those in the woods to save Ferdinando, our +pilot; but they followed him notwithstanding, and hunted after him upon +the foot with their deer-dogs, and with so main a cry that all the woods +echoed with the shout they made. But at the last this poor chased Indian +recovered the river side and got upon a tree, and, as we were coasting, +leaped down and swam to the barge half dead with fear. But our good hap +was that we kept the other old Indian, which we handfasted to redeem our +pilot withal; for, being natural of those rivers, we assured ourselves +that he knew the way better than any stranger could. And, indeed, but +for this chance, I think we had never found the way either to Guiana or +back to our ships; for Ferdinando after a few days knew nothing at all, +nor which way to turn; yea, and many times the old man himself was +in great doubt which river to take. Those people which dwell in these +broken islands and drowned lands are generally called Tivitivas. There +are of them two sorts; the one called Ciawani, and the other Waraweete. + +The great river of Orenoque or Baraquan hath nine branches which fall +out on the north side of his own main mouth. On the south side it hath +seven other fallings into the sea, so it disemboqueth by sixteen arms in +all, between islands and broken ground; but the islands are very great, +many of them as big as the Isle of Wight, and bigger, and many less. +From the first branch on the north to the last of the south it is at +least 100 leagues, so as the river's mouth is 300 miles wide at his +entrance into the sea, which I take to be far bigger than that of +Amazons. All those that inhabit in the mouth of this river upon the +several north branches are these Tivitivas, of which there are two chief +lords which have continual wars one with the other. The islands which +lie on the right hand are called Pallamos, and the land on the left, +Hororotomaka; and the river by which John Douglas returned within the +land from Amana to Capuri they call Macuri. + +These Tivitivas are a very goodly people and very valiant, and have the +most manly speech and most deliberate that ever I heard of what nation +soever. In the summer they have houses on the ground, as in other +places; in the winter they dwell upon the trees, where they build very +artificial towns and villages, as it is written in the Spanish story of +the West Indies that those people do in the low lands near the gulf of +Uraba. For between May and September the river of Orenoque riseth thirty +foot upright, and then are those islands overflown twenty foot high +above the level of the ground, saving some few raised grounds in the +middle of them; and for this cause they are enforced to live in this +manner. They never eat of anything that is set or sown; and as at home +they use neither planting nor other manurance, so when they come abroad +they refuse to feed of aught but of that which nature without labour +bringeth forth. They use the tops of palmitos for bread, and kill deer, +fish, and porks for the rest of their sustenance. They have also many +sorts of fruits that grow in the woods, and great variety of birds and +fowls; and if to speak of them were not tedious and vulgar, surely we +saw in those passages of very rare colours and forms not elsewhere to be +found, for as much as I have either seen or read. + +Of these people those that dwell upon the branches of Orenoque, called +Capuri, and Macureo, are for the most part carpenters of canoas; for +they make the most and fairest canoas; and sell them into Guiana for +gold and into Trinidad for tabacco, in the excessive taking whereof +they exceed all nations. And notwithstanding the moistness of the air in +which they live, the hardness of their diet, and the great labours they +suffer to hunt, fish, and fowl for their living, in all my life, +either in the Indies or in Europe, did I never behold a more goodly or +better-favoured people or a more manly. They were wont to make war upon +all nations, and especially on the Cannibals, so as none durst without a +good strength trade by those rivers; but of late they are at peace with +their neighbours, all holding the Spaniards for a common enemy. When +their commanders die they use great lamentation; and when they think +the flesh of their bodies is putrified and fallen from their bones, then +they take up the carcase again and hang it in the cacique's house that +died, and deck his skull with feathers of all colours, and hang all +his gold plates about the bones of this arms, thighs, and legs. Those +nations which are called Arwacas, which dwell on the south of Orenoque, +of which place and nation our Indian pilot was, are dispersed in many +other places, and do use to beat the bones of their lords into powder, +and their wives and friends drink it all in their several sorts of +drinks. + +After we departed from the port of these Ciawani we passed up the river +with the flood and anchored the ebb, and in this sort we went onward. +The third day that we entered the river, our galley came on ground; and +stuck so fast as we thought that even there our discovery had ended, and +that we must have left four-score and ten of our men to have inhabited, +like rooks upon trees, with those nations. But the next morning, after +we had cast out all her ballast, with tugging and hauling to and fro we +got her afloat and went on. At four days' end we fell into as goodly a +river as ever I beheld, which was called the great Amana, which ran more +directly without windings and turnings than the other. But soon after +the flood of the sea left us; and, being enforced either by main +strength to row against a violent current, or to return as wise as we +went out, we had then no shift but to persuade the companies that it was +but two or three days' work, and therefore desired them to take pains, +every gentleman and others taking their turns to row, and to spell one +the other at the hour's end. Every day we passed by goodly branches of +rivers, some falling from the west, others from the east, into Amana; +but those I leave to the description in the chart of discovery, where +every one shall be named with his rising and descent. When three days +more were overgone, our companies began to despair, the weather being +extreme hot, the river bordered with very high trees that kept away the +air, and the current against us every day stronger than other. But we +evermore commanded our pilots to promise an end the next day, and used +it so long as we were driven to assure them from four reaches of the +river to three, and so to two, and so to the next reach. But so long we +laboured that many days were spent, and we driven to draw ourselves to +harder allowance, our bread even at the last, and no drink at all; +and our men and ourselves so wearied and scorched, and doubtful withal +whether we should ever perform it or no, the heat increasing as we drew +towards the line; for we were now in five degrees. + +The further we went on, our victual decreasing and the air breeding +great faintness, we grew weaker and weaker, when we had most need of +strength and ability. For hourly the river ran more violently than other +against us, and the barge, wherries, and ship's boat of Captain Gifford +and Captain Caulfield had spent all their provisions; so as we were +brought into despair and discomfort, had we not persuaded all the +company that it was but only one day's work more to attain the land +where we should be relieved of all we wanted, and if we returned, that +we were sure to starve by the way, and that the world would also laugh +us to scorn. On the banks of these rivers were divers sorts of fruits +good to eat, flowers and trees of such variety as were sufficient to +make ten volumes of Herbals; we relieved ourselves many times with the +fruits of the country, and sometimes with fowl and fish. We saw birds of +all colours, some carnation, some crimson, orange-tawny, purple, watchet +(pale blue), and of all other sorts, both simple and mixed, and it was +unto us a great good-passing of the time to behold them, besides the +relief we found by killing some store of them with our fowling-pieces; +without which, having little or no bread, and less drink, but only the +thick and troubled water of the river, we had been in a very hard case. + +Our old pilot of the Ciawani, whom, as I said before, we took to redeem +Ferdinando, told us, that if we would enter a branch of a river on the +right hand with our barge and wherries, and leave the galley at anchor +the while in the great river, he would bring us to a town of the +Arwacas, where we should find store of bread, hens, fish, and of the +country wine; and persuaded us, that departing from the galley at noon +we might return ere night. I was very glad to hear this speech, and +presently took my barge, with eight musketeers, Captain Gifford's +wherry, with himself and four musketeers, and Captain Caulfield with +his wherry, and as many; and so we entered the mouth of this river; and +because we were persuaded that it was so near, we took no victual with +us at all. When we had rowed three hours, we marvelled we saw no sign +of any dwelling, and asked the pilot where the town was; he told us, +a little further. After three hours more, the sun being almost set, we +began to suspect that he led us that way to betray us; for he confessed +that those Spaniards which fled from Trinidad, and also those that +remained with Carapana in Emeria, were joined together in some village +upon that river. But when it grew towards night, and we demanded where +the place was, he told us but four reaches more. When we had rowed four +and four, we saw no sign; and our poor watermen, even heart-broken and +tired, were ready to give up the ghost; for we had now come from the +galley near forty miles. + +At the last we determined to hang the pilot; and if we had well known +the way back again by night, he had surely gone. But our own necessities +pleaded sufficiently for his safety; for it was as dark as pitch, and +the river began so to narrow itself, and the trees to hang over from +side to side, as we were driven with arming swords to cut a passage +through those branches that covered the water. We were very desirous to +find this town hoping of a feast, because we made but a short breakfast +aboard the galley in the morning, and it was now eight o'clock at night, +and our stomachs began to gnaw apace; but whether it was best to return +or go on, we began to doubt, suspecting treason in the pilot more and +more; but the poor old Indian ever assured us that it was but a little +further, but this one turning and that turning; and at the last about +one o'clock after midnight we saw a light, and rowing towards it we +heard the dogs of the village. When we landed we found few people; for +the lord of that place was gone with divers canoas above 400 miles off, +upon a journey towards the head of Orenoque, to trade for gold, and to +buy women of the Cannibals, who afterwards unfortunately passed by us as +we rode at an anchor in the port of Morequito in the dark of the night, +and yet came so near us as his canoas grated against our barges; he left +one of his company at the port of Morequito, by whom we understood that +he had brought thirty young women, divers plates of gold, and had great +store of fine pieces of cotton cloth, and cotton beds. In his house we +had good store of bread, fish, hens, and Indian drink, and so rested +that night; and in the morning, after we had traded with such of his +people as came down, we returned towards our galley, and brought with us +some quantity of bread, fish, and hens. + +On both sides of this river we passed the most beautiful country that +ever mine eyes beheld; and whereas all that we had seen before was +nothing but woods, prickles, bushes, and thorns, here we beheld plains +of twenty miles in length, the grass short and green, and in divers +parts groves of trees by themselves, as if they had been by all the art +and labour in the world so made of purpose; and still as we rowed, the +deer came down feeding by the water's side as if they had been used to +a keeper's call. Upon this river there were great store of fowl, and +of many sorts; we saw in it divers sorts of strange fishes, and of +marvellous bigness; but for lagartos (alligators and caymans) it +exceeded, for there were thousands of those ugly serpents; and the +people call it, for the abundance of them, the River of Lagartos, in +their language. I had a negro, a very proper young fellow, who leaping +out of the galley to swim in the mouth of this river, was in all our +sights taken and devoured with one of those lagartos. In the meanwhile +our companies in the galley thought we had been all lost, for we +promised to return before night; and sent the Lion's Whelp's ship's boat +with Captain Whiddon to follow us up the river. But the next day, after +we had rowed up and down some fourscore miles, we returned, and went on +our way up the great river; and when we were even at the last cast for +want of victuals, Captain Gifford being before the galley and the rest +of the boats, seeking out some place to land upon the banks to make +fire, espied four canoas coming down the river; and with no small joy +caused his men to try the uttermost of their strengths, and after a +while two of the four gave over and ran themselves ashore, every man +betaking himself to the fastness of the woods. The two other lesser +got away, while he landed to lay hold on these; and so turned into some +by-creek, we knew not whither. Those canoas that were taken were loaded +with bread, and were bound for Margarita in the West Indies, which those +Indians, called Arwacas, proposed to carry thither for exchange; but in +the lesser there were three Spaniards, who having heard of the defeat of +their Governor in Trinidad, and that we purposed to enter Guiana, came +away in those canoas; one of them was a cavallero, as the captain of the +Arwacas after told us, another a soldier and the third a refiner. + +In the meantime, nothing on the earth could have been more welcome to +us, next unto gold, than the great store of very excellent bread which +we found in these canoas; for now our men cried, "Let us go on, we care +not how far." After that Captain Gifford had brought the two canoas to +the galley, I took my barge and went to the bank's side with a dozen +shot, where the canoas first ran themselves ashore, and landed there, +sending out Captain Gifford and Captain Thyn on one hand and Captain +Caulfield on the other, to follow those that were fled into the woods. +And as I was creeping through the bushes, I saw an Indian basket hidden, +which was the refiner's basket; for I found in it his quicksilver, +saltpetre, and divers things for the trial of metals, and also the dust +of such ore as he had refined; but in those canoas which escaped there +was a good quantity of ore and gold. I then landed more men, and offered +five hundred pound to what soldier soever could take one of those three +Spaniards that we thought were landed. But our labours were in vain in +that behalf, for they put themselves into one of the small canoas, and +so, while the greater canoas were in taking, they escaped. But seeking +after the Spaniards we found the Arwacas hidden in the woods, which were +pilots for the Spaniards, and rowed their canoas. Of which I kept the +chiefest for a pilot, and carried him with me to Guiana; by whom I +understood where and in what countries the Spaniards had laboured for +gold, though I made not the same known to all. For when the springs +began to break, and the rivers to raise themselves so suddenly as by no +means we could abide the digging of any mine, especially for that the +richest are defended with rocks of hard stones, which we call the white +spar, and that it required both time, men, and instruments fit for such +a work, I thought it best not to hover thereabouts, lest if the same had +been perceived by the company, there would have been by this time many +barks and ships set out, and perchance other nations would also +have gotten of ours for pilots. So as both ourselves might have been +prevented, and all our care taken for good usage of the people been +utterly lost, by those that only respect present profit; and such +violence or insolence offered as the nations which are borderers +would have changed the desire of our love and defence into hatred and +violence. And for any longer stay to have brought a more quantity, which +I hear hath been often objected, whosoever had seen or proved the fury +of that river after it began to arise, and had been a month and odd +days, as we were, from hearing aught from our ships, leaving them meanly +manned 400 miles off, would perchance have turned somewhat sooner than +we did, if all the mountains had been gold, or rich stones. And to say +the truth, all the branches and small rivers which fell into Orenoque +were raised with such speed, as if we waded them over the shoes in the +morning outward, we were covered to the shoulders homeward the very same +day; and to stay to dig our gold with our nails, had been opus laboris +but not ingenii. Such a quantity as would have served our turns we could +not have had, but a discovery of the mines to our infinite disadvantage +we had made, and that could have been the best profit of farther search +or stay; for those mines are not easily broken, nor opened in haste, and +I could have returned a good quantity of gold ready cast if I had not +shot at another mark than present profit. + +This Arwacan pilot, with the rest, feared that we would have eaten them, +or otherwise have put them to some cruel death: for the Spaniards, to +the end that none of the people in the passage towards Guiana, or in +Guiana itself, might come to speech with us, persuaded all the nations +that we were men-eaters and cannibals. But when the poor men and women +had seen us, and that we gave them meat, and to every one something or +other which was rare and strange to them, they began to conceive the +deceit and purpose of the Spaniards, who indeed, as they confessed +took from them both their wives and daughters daily . . . But I protest +before the Majesty of the living God, that I neither know nor believe, +that any of our company, one or other, did offer insult to any of their +women, and yet we saw many hundreds, and had many in our power, and of +those very young and excellently favoured, which came among us without +deceit, stark naked. Nothing got us more love amongst them than this +usage; for I suffered not any man to take from any of the nations +so much as a pina (pineapple) or a potato root without giving them +contentment, nor any man so much as to offer to touch any of their wives +or daughters; which course, so contrary to the Spaniards, who tyrannize +over them in all things, drew them to admire her Majesty, whose +commandment I told them it was, and also wonderfully to honour our +nation. But I confess it was a very impatient work to keep the meaner +sort from spoil and stealing when we came to their houses; which because +in all I could not prevent, I caused my Indian interpreter at every +place when we departed, to know of the loss or wrong done, and if aught +were stolen or taken by violence, either the same was restored, and the +party punished in their sight, or else was paid for to their uttermost +demand. They also much wondered at us, after they heard that we had +slain the Spaniards at Trinidad, for they were before resolved that no +nation of Christians durst abide their presence; and they wondered more +when I had made them know of the great overthrow that her Majesty's army +and fleet had given them of late years in their own countries. + +After we had taken in this supply of bread, with divers baskets of +roots, which were excellent meat, I gave one of the canoas to the +Arwacas, which belonged to the Spaniards that were escaped; and when I +had dismissed all but the captain, who by the Spaniards was christened +Martin, I sent back in the same canoa the old Ciawani, and Ferdinando, +my first pilot, and gave them both such things as they desired, with +sufficient victual to carry them back, and by them wrote a letter to the +ships, which they promised to deliver, and performed it; and then I went +on, with my new hired pilot, Martin the Arwacan. But the next or second +day after, we came aground again with our galley, and were like to cast +her away, with all our victual and provision, and so lay on the sand one +whole night, and were far more in despair at this time to free her than +before, because we had no tide of flood to help us, and therefore feared +that all our hopes would have ended in mishaps. But we fastened an +anchor upon the land, and with main strength drew her off; and so the +fifteenth day we discovered afar off the mountains of Guiana, to our +great joy, and towards the evening had a slent (push) of a northerly +wind that blew very strong, which brought us in sight of the great river +Orenoque; out of which this river descended wherein we were. We descried +afar off three other canoas as far as we could discern them, after whom +we hastened with our barge and wherries, but two of them passed out of +sight, and the third entered up the great river, on the right hand to +the westward, and there stayed out of sight, thinking that we meant to +take the way eastward towards the province of Carapana; for that way the +Spaniards keep, not daring to go upwards to Guiana, the people in those +parts being all their enemies, and those in the canoas thought us to +have been those Spaniards that were fled from Trinidad, and escaped +killing. And when we came so far down as the opening of that branch into +which they slipped, being near them with our barge and wherries, we +made after them, and ere they could land came within call, and by our +interpreter told them what we were, wherewith they came back willingly +aboard us; and of such fish and tortugas' (turtles) eggs as they had +gathered they gave us, and promised in the morning to bring the lord of +that part with them, and to do us all other services they could. That +night we came to an anchor at the parting of the three goodly rivers +(the one was the river of Amana, by which we came from the north, and +ran athwart towards the south, the other two were of Orenoque, which +crossed from the west and ran to the sea towards the east) and landed +upon a fair sand, where we found thousands of tortugas' eggs, which are +very wholesome meat, and greatly restoring; so as our men were now well +filled and highly contented both with the fare, and nearness of the land +of Guiana, which appeared in sight. + +In the morning there came down, according to promise, the lord of that +border, called Toparimaca, with some thirty or forty followers, and +brought us divers sorts of fruits, and of his wine, bread, fish, and +flesh, whom we also feasted as we could; at least we drank good Spanish +wine, whereof we had a small quantity in bottles, which above all things +they love. I conferred with this Toparimaca of the next way to Guiana, +who conducted our galley and boats to his own port, and carried us from +thence some mile and a-half to his town; where some of our captains +caroused of his wine till they were reasonable pleasant, for it is very +strong with pepper, and the juice of divers herbs and fruits digested +and purged. They keep it in great earthen pots of ten or twelve gallons, +very clean and sweet, and are themselves at their meetings and feasts +the greatest carousers and drunkards of the world. When we came to his +town we found two caciques, whereof one was a stranger that had been up +the river in trade, and his boats, people, and wife encamped at the +port where we anchored; and the other was of that country, a follower +of Toparimaca. They lay each of them in a cotton hamaca, which we call +Brazil beds, and two women attending them with six cups, and a little +ladle to fill them out of an earthen pitcher of wine; and so they drank +each of them three of those cups at a time one to the other, and in this +sort they drink drunk at their feasts and meetings. + +That cacique that was a stranger had his wife staying at the port where +we anchored, and in all my life I have seldom seen a better favoured +woman. She was of good stature, with black eyes, fat of body, of an +excellent countenance, her hair almost as long as herself, tied up again +in pretty knots; and it seemed she stood not in that awe of her husband +as the rest, for she spake and discoursed, and drank among the gentlemen +and captains, and was very pleasant, knowing her own comeliness, and +taking great pride therein. I have seen a lady in England so like to +her, as but for the difference of colour, I would have sworn might have +been the same. + +The seat of this town of Toparimaca was very pleasant, standing on +a little hill, in an excellent prospect, with goodly gardens a mile +compass round about it, and two very fair and large ponds of excellent +fish adjoining. This town is called Arowocai; the people are of the +nation called Nepoios, and are followers of Carapana. In that place I +saw very aged people, that we might perceive all their sinews and veins +without any flesh, and but even as a case covered only with skin. +The lord of this place gave me an old man for pilot, who was of great +experience and travel, and knew the river most perfectly both by day +and night. And it shall be requisite for any man that passeth it to have +such a pilot; for it is four, five, and six miles over in many places, +and twenty miles in other places, with wonderful eddies and strong +currents, many great islands, and divers shoals, and many dangerous +rocks; and besides upon any increase of wind so great a billow, as we +were sometimes in great peril of drowning in the galley, for the small +boats durst not come from the shore but when it was very fair. + +The next day we hasted thence, and having an easterly wind to help us, +we spared our arms from rowing; for after we entered Orenoque, the river +lieth for the most part east and west, even from the sea unto Quito, in +Peru. This river is navigable with barks little less than 1000 miles; +and from the place where we entered it may be sailed up in small +pinnaces to many of the best parts of Nuevo Reyno de Granada and of +Popayan. And from no place may the cities of these parts of the Indies +be so easily taken and invaded as from hence. All that day we sailed up +a branch of that river, having on the left hand a great island, which +they call Assapana, which may contain some five-and-twenty miles in +length, and six miles in breadth, the great body of the river running on +the other side of this island. Beyond that middle branch there is also +another island in the river, called Iwana, which is twice as big as the +Isle of Wight; and beyond it, and between it and the main of Guiana, +runneth a third branch of Orenoque, called Arraroopana. All three are +goodly branches, and all navigable for great ships. I judge the river +in this place to be at least thirty miles broad, reckoning the islands +which divide the branches in it, for afterwards I sought also both the +other branches. + +After we reached to the head of the island called Assapana, a little to +the westward on the right hand there opened a river which came from the +north, called Europa, and fell into the great river; and beyond it on +the same side we anchored for that night by another island, six miles +long and two miles broad, which they call Ocaywita. From hence, in +the morning, we landed two Guianians, which we found in the town of +Toparimaca, that came with us; who went to give notice of our coming to +the lord of that country, called Putyma, a follower of Topiawari, +chief lord of Aromaia, who succeeded Morequito, whom (as you have heard +before) Berreo put to death. But his town being far within the land, he +came not unto us that day; so as we anchored again that night near the +banks of another land, of bigness much like the other, which they call +Putapayma, over against which island, on the main land, was a very high +mountain called Oecope. We coveted to anchor rather by these islands +in the river than by the main, because of the tortugas' eggs, which our +people found on them in great abundance; and also because the ground +served better for us to cast our nets for fish, the main banks being for +the most part stony and high and the rocks of a blue, metalline colour, +like unto the best steel ore, which I assuredly take it to be. Of the +same blue stone are also divers great mountains which border this river +in many places. + +The next morning, towards nine of the clock, we weighed anchor; and +the breeze increasing, we sailed always west up the river, and, after +a while, opening the land on the right side, the country appeared to be +champaign and the banks shewed very perfect red. I therefore sent two +of the little barges with Captain Gifford, and with him Captain Thyn, +Captain Caulfield, my cousin Greenvile, my nephew John Gilbert, Captain +Eynos, Master Edward Porter, and my cousin Butshead Gorges, with some +few soldiers, to march over the banks of that red land and to discover +what manner of country it was on the other side; who at their return +found it all a plain level as far as they went or could discern from +the highest tree they could get upon. And my old pilot, a man of great +travel, brother to the cacique Toparimaca, told me that those were +called the plains of the Sayma, and that the same level reached to +Cumana and Caracas, in the West Indies, which are a hundred and twenty +leagues to the north, and that there inhabited four principal nations. +The first were the Sayma, the next Assawai, the third and greatest +the Wikiri, by whom Pedro Hernandez de Serpa, before mentioned, was +overthrown as he passed with 300 horse from Cumana towards Orenoque in +his enterprise of Guiana. The fourth are called Aroras, and are as black +as negroes, but have smooth hair; and these are very valiant, or rather +desperate, people, and have the most strong poison on their arrows, and +most dangerous, of all nations, of which I will speak somewhat, being a +digression not unnecessary. + +There was nothing whereof I was more curious than to find out the true +remedies of these poisoned arrows. For besides the mortality of the +wound they make, the party shot endureth the most insufferable torment +in the world, and abideth a most ugly and lamentable death, sometimes +dying stark mad, sometimes their bowels breaking out of their bellies; +which are presently discoloured as black as pitch, and so unsavory as no +man can endure to cure or to attend them. And it is more strange to +know that in all this time there was never Spaniard, either by gift or +torment, that could attain to the true knowledge of the cure, although +they have martyred and put to invented torture I know not how many +of them. But everyone of these Indians know it not, no, not one among +thousands, but their soothsayers and priests, who do conceal it, and +only teach it but from the father to the son. + +Those medicines which are vulgar, and serve for the ordinary poison, +are made of the juice of a root called tupara; the same also quencheth +marvellously the heat of burning fevers, and healeth inward wounds and +broken veins that bleed within the body. But I was more beholding to the +Guianians than any other; for Antonio de Berreo told me that he could +never attain to the knowledge thereof, and yet they taught me the best +way of healing as well thereof as of all other poisons. Some of the +Spaniards have been cured in ordinary wounds of the common poisoned +arrows with the juice of garlic. But this is a general rule for all men +that shall hereafter travel the Indies where poisoned arrows are used, +that they must abstain from drink. For if they take any liquor into +their body, as they shall be marvellously provoked thereunto by drought, +I say, if they drink before the wound be dressed, or soon upon it, there +is no way with them but present death. + +And so I will return again to our journey, which for this third day +we finished, and cast anchor again near the continent on the left hand +between two mountains, the one called Aroami and the other Aio. I made +no stay here but till midnight; for I feared hourly lest any rain should +fall, and then it had been impossible to have gone any further up, +notwithstanding that there is every day a very strong breeze and +easterly wind. I deferred the search of the country on Guiana side till +my return down the river. + +The next day we sailed by a great island in the middle of the river, +called Manoripano; and, as we walked awhile on the island, while the +galley got ahead of us, there came for us from the main a small canoa +with seven or eight Guianians, to invite us to anchor at their port, +but I deferred till my return. It was that cacique to whom those Nepoios +went, which came with us from the town of Toparimaca. And so the fifth +day we reached as high up as the province of Aromaia, the country of +Morequito, whom Berreo executed, and anchored to the west of an island +called Murrecotima, ten miles long and five broad. And that night the +cacique Aramiary, to whose town we made our long and hungry voyage out +of the river of Amana, passed by us. + +The next day we arrived at the port of Morequito, and anchored there, +sending away one of our pilots to seek the king of Aromaia, uncle to +Morequito, slain by Berreo as aforesaid. The next day following, before +noon, he came to us on foot from his house, which was fourteen English +miles, himself being a hundred and ten years old, and returned on foot +the same day; and with him many of the borderers, with many women +and children, that came to wonder at our nation and to bring us down +victual, which they did in great plenty, as venison, pork, hens, +chickens, fowl, fish, with divers sorts of excellent fruits and roots, +and great abundance of pinas, the princess of fruits that grow under the +sun, especially those of Guiana. They brought us, also, store of bread +and of their wine, and a sort of paraquitos no bigger than wrens, and of +all other sorts both small and great. One of them gave me a beast called +by the Spaniards armadillo, which they call cassacam, which seemeth to +be all barred over with small plates somewhat like to a rhinoceros, with +a white horn growing in his hinder parts as big as a great hunting-horn, +which they use to wind instead of a trumpet. Monardus (Monardes, +Historia Medicinal) writeth that a little of the powder of that horn put +into the ear cureth deafness. + +After this old king had rested awhile in a little tent that I caused to +be set up, I began by my interpreter to discourse with him of the death +of Morequito his predecessor, and afterward of the Spaniards; and ere I +went any farther I made him know the cause of my coming thither, whose +servant I was, and that the Queen's pleasure was I should undertake the +voyage for their defence, and to deliver them from the tyranny of the +Spaniards, dilating at large, as I had done before to those of Trinidad, +her Majesty's greatness, her justice, her charity to all oppressed +nations, with as many of the rest of her beauties and virtues as either +I could express or they conceive. All which being with great admiration +attentively heard and marvellously admired, I began to sound the old man +as touching Guiana and the state thereof, what sort of commonwealth it +was, how governed, of what strength and policy, how far it extended, +and what nations were friends or enemies adjoining, and finally of the +distance, and way to enter the same. He told me that himself and his +people, with all those down the river towards the sea, as far as +Emeria, the province of Carapana, were of Guiana, but that they called +themselves Orenoqueponi, and that all the nations between the river and +those mountains in sight, called Wacarima, were of the same cast and +appellation; and that on the other side of those mountains of Wacarima +there was a large plain (which after I discovered in my return) called +the valley of Amariocapana. In all that valley the people were also of +the ancient Guianians. + +I asked what nations those were which inhabited on the further side of +those mountains, beyond the valley of Amariocapana. He answered with a +great sigh (as a man which had inward feeling of the loss of his country +and liberty, especially for that his eldest son was slain in a battle +on that side of the mountains, whom he most entirely loved) that he +remembered in his father's lifetime, when he was very old and himself +a young man, that there came down into that large valley of Guiana a +nation from so far off as the sun slept (for such were his own words), +with so great a multitude as they could not be numbered nor resisted, +and that they wore large coats, and hats of crimson colour, which +colour he expressed by shewing a piece of red wood wherewith my tent was +supported, and that they were called Orejones and Epuremei; that those +had slain and rooted out so many of the ancient people as there were +leaves in the wood upon all the trees, and had now made themselves lords +of all, even to that mountain foot called Curaa, saving only of two +nations, the one called Iwarawaqueri and the other Cassipagotos; and +that in the last battle fought between the Epuremei and the Iwarawaqueri +his eldest son was chosen to carry to the aid of the Iwarawaqueri a +great troop of the Orenoqueponi, and was there slain with all his people +and friends, and that he had now remaining but one son; and farther told +me that those Epuremei had built a great town called Macureguarai at +the said mountain foot, at the beginning of the great plains of Guiana, +which have no end; and that their houses have many rooms, one over the +other, and that therein the great king of the Orejones and Epuremei kept +three thousand men to defend the borders against them, and withal daily +to invade and slay them; but that of late years, since the Christians +offered to invade his territories and those frontiers, they were all +at peace, and traded one with another, saving only the Iwarawaqueri +and those other nations upon the head of the river of Caroli called +Cassipagotos, which we afterwards discovered, each one holding the +Spaniard for a common enemy. + +After he had answered thus far, he desired leave to depart, saying that +he had far to go, that he was old and weak, and was every day called for +by death, which was also his own phrase. I desired him to rest with +us that night, but I could not entreat him; but he told me that at my +return from the country above he would again come to us, and in the +meantime provide for us the best he could, of all that his country +yielded. The same night he returned to Orocotona, his own town; so as +he went that day eight-and-twenty miles, the weather being very hot, the +country being situate between four and five degrees of the equinoctial. +This Topiawari is held for the proudest and wisest of all the +Orenoqueponi, and so he behaved himself towards me in all his answers, +at my return, as I marvelled to find a man of that gravity and judgment +and of so good discourse, that had no help of learning nor breed. The +next morning we also left the port, and sailed westward up to the +river, to view the famous river called Caroli, as well because it +was marvellous of itself, as also for that I understood it led to +the strongest nations of all the frontiers, that were enemies to the +Epuremei, which are subjects to Inga, emperor of Guiana and Manoa. And +that night we anchored at another island called Caiama, of some five or +six miles in length; and the next day arrived at the mouth of Caroli. +When we were short of it as low or further down as the port of +Morequito, we heard the great roar and fall of the river. But when we +came to enter with our barge and wherries, thinking to have gone up some +forty miles to the nations of the Cassipagotos, we were not able with +a barge of eight oars to row one stone's cast in an hour; and yet the +river is as broad as the Thames at Woolwich, and we tried both sides, +and the middle, and every part of the river. So as we encamped upon the +banks adjoining, and sent off our Orenoquepone which came with us from +Morequito to give knowledge to the nations upon the river of our being +there, and that we desired to see the lords of Canuria, which dwelt +within the province upon that river, making them know that we were +enemies to the Spaniards; for it was on this river side that Morequito +slew the friar, and those nine Spaniards which came from Manoa, the city +of Inga, and took from them 14,000 pesos of gold. So as the next day +there came down a lord or cacique, called Wanuretona, with many people +with him, and brought all store of provisions to entertain us, as the +rest had done. And as I had before made my coming known to Topiawari, so +did I acquaint this cacique therewith, and how I was sent by her +Majesty for the purpose aforesaid, and gathered also what I could of +him touching the estate of Guiana. And I found that those also of Caroli +were not only enemies to the Spaniards, but most of all to the Epuremei, +which abound in gold. And by this Wanuretona I had knowledge that on +the head of this river were three mighty nations, which were seated on +a great lake, from whence this river descended, and were called +Cassipagotos, Eparegotos, and Arawagotos (the Purigotos and Arinagotos +are still settled on the upper tributaries of the Caroni river, no such +lake as that mentioned is known to exist); and that all those either +against the Spaniards or the Epuremei would join with us, and that if we +entered the land over the mountains of Curaa we should satisfy ourselves +with gold and all other good things. He told us farther of a nation +called Iwarawaqueri, before spoken of, that held daily war with the +Epuremei that inhabited Macureguarai, and first civil town of Guiana, of +the subjects of Inga, the emperor. + +Upon this river one Captain George, that I took with Berreo, told me +that there was a great silver mine, and that it was near the banks of +the said river. But by this time as well Orenoque, Caroli, as all the +rest of the rivers were risen four or five feet in height, so as it was +not possible by the strength of any men, or with any boat whatsoever, +to row into the river against the stream. I therefore sent Captain Thyn, +Captain Greenvile, my nephew John Gilbert, my cousin Butshead Gorges, +Captain Clarke, and some thirty shot more to coast the river by land, +and to go to a town some twenty miles over the valley called Amnatapoi; +and they found guides there to go farther towards the mountain foot +to another great town called Capurepana, belonging to a cacique called +Haharacoa, that was a nephew to old Topiawari, king of Aromaia, our +chiefest friend, because this town and province of Capurepana adjoined +to Macureguarai, which was a frontier town of the empire. And the +meanwhile myself with Captain Gifford, Captain Caulfield, Edward +Hancock, and some half-a-dozen shot marched overland to view the strange +overfalls of the river of Caroli, which roared so far off; and also to +see the plains adjoining, and the rest of the province of Canuri. I sent +also Captain Whiddon, William Connock, and some eight shot with them, to +see if they could find any mineral stone alongst the river's side. When +we were come to the tops of the first hills of the plains adjoining +to the river, we beheld that wonderful breach of waters which ran down +Caroli; and might from that mountain see the river how it ran in three +parts, above twenty miles off, and there appeared some ten or twelve +overfalls in sight, every one as high over the other as a church tower, +which fell with that fury, that the rebound of water made it seem as if +it had been all covered over with a great shower of rain; and in some +places we took it at the first for a smoke that had risen over some +great town. For mine own part I was well persuaded from thence to have +returned, being a very ill footman; but the rest were all so desirous to +go near the said strange thunder of waters, as they drew me on by little +and little, till we came into the next valley, where we might better +discern the same. I never saw a more beautiful country, nor more lively +prospects; hills so raised here and there over the valleys; the river +winding into divers branches; the plains adjoining without bush or +stubble, all fair green grass; the ground of hard sand, easy to march +on, either for horse or foot; the deer crossing in every path; the birds +towards the evening singing on every tree with a thousand several tunes; +cranes and herons of white, crimson, and carnation, perching in the +river's side; the air fresh with a gentle easterly wind; and every +stone that we stooped to take up promised either gold or silver by his +complexion. Your Lordship shall see of many sorts, and I hope some of +them cannot be bettered under the sun; and yet we had no means but with +our daggers and fingers to tear them out here and there, the rocks being +most hard of that mineral spar aforesaid, which is like a flint, and is +altogether as hard or harder, and besides the veins lie a fathom or +two deep in the rocks. But we wanted all things requisite save only our +desires and good will to have performed more if it had pleased God. To +be short, when both our companies returned, each of them brought also +several sorts of stones that appeared very fair, but were such as they +found loose on the ground, and were for the most part but coloured, +and had not any gold fixed in them. Yet such as had no judgment or +experience kept all that glistered, and would not be persuaded but it +was rich because of the lustre; and brought of those, and of marcasite +withal, from Trinidad, and have delivered of those stones to be tried +in many places, and have thereby bred an opinion that all the rest is of +the same. Yet some of these stones I shewed afterward to a Spaniard +of the Caracas, who told me that it was El Madre del Oro, that is, the +mother of gold, and that the mine was farther in the ground. + +But it shall be found a weak policy in me, either to betray myself or +my country with imaginations; neither am I so far in love with that +lodging, watching, care, peril, diseases, ill savours, bad fare, and +many other mischiefs that accompany these voyages, as to woo myself +again into any of them, were I not assured that the sun covereth not +so much riches in any part of the earth. Captain Whiddon, and our +chirurgeon, Nicholas Millechamp, brought me a kind of stones like +sapphires; what they may prove I know not. I shewed them to some of the +Orenoqueponi, and they promised to bring me to a mountain that had of +them very large pieces growing diamond-wise; whether it be crystal of +the mountain, Bristol diamond, or sapphire, I do not yet know, but +I hope the best; sure I am that the place is as likely as those from +whence all the rich stones are brought, and in the same height or very +near. On the left hand of this river Caroli are seated those nations +which I called Iwarawaqueri before remembered, which are enemies to the +Epuremei; and on the head of it, adjoining to the great lake Cassipa, +are situated those other nations which also resist Inga, and the +Epuremei, called Cassipagotos, Eparegotos, and Arawagotos. I farther +understood that this lake of Cassipa is so large, as it is above one +day's journey for one of their canoas, to cross, which may be some forty +miles; and that thereinto fall divers rivers, and that great store of +grains of gold are found in the summer time when the lake falleth by the +banks, in those branches. + +There is also another goodly river beyond Caroli which is called Arui, +which also runneth through the lake Cassipa, and falleth into Orenoque +farther west, making all that land between Caroli and Arui an island; +which is likewise a most beautiful country. Next unto Arui there are two +rivers Atoica and Caura, and on that branch which is called Caura are +a nation of people whose heads appear not above their shoulders; which +though it may be thought a mere fable, yet for mine own part I am +resolved it is true, because every child in the provinces of Aromaia and +Canuri affirm the same. They are called Ewaipanoma; they are reported +to have their eyes in their shoulders, and their mouths in the middle +of their breasts, and that a long train of hair groweth backward between +their shoulders. The son of Topiawari, which I brought with me into +England, told me that they were the most mighty men of all the land, and +use bows, arrows, and clubs thrice as big as any of Guiana, or of the +Orenoqueponi; and that one of the Iwarawaqueri took a prisoner of them +the year before our arrival there, and brought him into the borders of +Aromaia, his father's country. And farther, when I seemed to doubt of +it, he told me that it was no wonder among them; but that they were as +great a nation and as common as any other in all the provinces, and had +of late years slain many hundreds of his father's people, and of other +nations their neighbours. But it was not my chance to hear of them till +I was come away; and if I had but spoken one word of it while I was +there I might have brought one of them with me to put the matter out of +doubt. Such a nation was written of by Mandeville, whose reports +were holden for fables many years; and yet since the East Indies were +discovered, we find his relations true of such things as heretofore were +held incredible (Mandeville, or the author who assumed this name, placed +his headless men in the East Indian Archipelago, the fable is borrowed +from older writers, Herodotus &c). Whether it be true or no, the matter +is not great, neither can there be any profit in the imagination; for +mine own part I saw them not, but I am resolved that so many people did +not all combine or forethink to make the report. + +When I came to Cumana in the West Indies afterwards by chance I spake +with a Spaniard dwelling not far from thence, a man of great travel. +And after he knew that I had been in Guiana, and so far directly west +as Caroli, the first question he asked me was, whether I had seen any of +the Ewaipanoma, which are those without heads. Who being esteemed a most +honest man of his word, and in all things else, told me that he had +seen many of them; I may not name him, because it may be for his +disadvantage, but he is well known to Monsieur Moucheron's son of +London, and to Peter Moucheron, merchant, of the Flemish ship that was +there in trade; who also heard, what he avowed to be true, of those +people. + +The fourth river to the west of Caroli is Casnero: which falleth into +the Orenoque on this side of Amapaia. And that river is greater than +Danubius, or any of Europe: it riseth on the south of Guiana from +the mountains which divide Guiana from Amazons, and I think it to be +navigable many hundred miles. But we had no time, means, nor season of +the year, to search those rivers, for the causes aforesaid, the winter +being come upon us; although the winter and summer as touching cold and +heat differ not, neither do the trees ever sensibly lose their leaves, +but have always fruit either ripe or green, and most of them both +blossoms, leaves, ripe fruit, and green, at one time: but their winter +only consisteth of terrible rains, and overflowing of the rivers, with +many great storms and gusts, thunder and lightnings, of which we had our +fill ere we returned. + +On the north side, the first river that falleth into the Orenoque is +Cari. Beyond it, on the same side is the river of Limo. Between these +two is a great nation of Cannibals, and their chief town beareth the +name of the river, and is called Acamacari. At this town is a continual +market of women for three or four hatchets apiece; they are bought by +the Arwacas, and by them sold into the West Indies. To the west of Limo +is the river Pao, beyond it Caturi, beyond that Voari, and Capuri (the +Apure river), which falleth out of the great river of Meta, by which +Berreo descended from Nuevo Reyno de Granada. To the westward of Capuri +is the province of Amapaia, where Berreo wintered and had so many of his +people poisoned with the tawny water of the marshes of the Anebas. Above +Amapaia, toward Nuevo Reyno, fall in Meto, Pato and Cassanar. To the +west of those, towards the provinces of the Ashaguas and Catetios, are +the rivers of Beta, Dawney, and Ubarro; and toward the frontier of Peru +are the provinces of Thomebamba, and Caxamalca. Adjoining to Quito in +the north side of Peru are the rivers of Guiacar and Goauar; and on the +other side of the said mountains the river of Papamene which descendeth +into Maranon or Amazons, passing through the province Motilones, +where Don Pedro de Orsua, who was slain by the traitor Aguirre before +rehearsed, built his brigandines, when he sought Guiana by the way of +Amazons. + +Between Dawney and Beta lieth a famous island in Orenoque (now called +Baraquan, for above Meta it is not known by the name of Orenoque) which +is called Athule (cataract of Ature); beyond which ships of burden +cannot pass by reason of a most forcible overfall, and current of water; +but in the eddy all smaller vessels may be drawn even to Peru itself. +But to speak of more of these rivers without the description were but +tedious, and therefore I will leave the rest to the description. This +river of Orenoque is navigable for ships little less than 1,000 miles, +and for lesser vessels near 2,000. By it, as aforesaid, Peru, Nuevo +Reyno and Popayan may be invaded: it also leadeth to the great empire of +Inga, and to the provinces of Amapaia and Anebas, which abound in gold. +His branches of Casnero, Manta, Caura descend from the middle land and +valley which lieth between the easter province of Peru and Guiana; and +it falls into the sea between Maranon and Trinidad in two degrees and +a half. All of which your honours shall better perceive in the general +description of Guiana, Peru, Nuevo Reyno, the kingdom of Popayan, and +Rodas, with the province of Venezuela, to the bay of Uraba, behind +Cartagena, westward, and to Amazons southward. While we lay at anchor on +the coast of Canuri, and had taken knowledge of all the nations upon +the head and branches of this river, and had found out so many several +people, which were enemies to the Epuremei and the new conquerors, I +thought it time lost to linger any longer in that place, especially for +that the fury of Orenoque began daily to threaten us with dangers in our +return. For no half day passed but the river began to rage and overflow +very fearfully, and the rains came down in terrible showers, and gusts +in great abundance; and withal our men began to cry out for want of +shift, for no man had place to bestow any other apparel than that which +he ware on his back, and that was throughly washed on his body for the +most part ten times in one day; and we had now been well-near a month +every day passing to the westward farther and farther from our ships. +We therefore turned towards the east, and spent the rest of the time +in discovering the river towards the sea, which we had not viewed, and +which was most material. + +The next day following we left the mouth of Caroli, and arrived again at +the port of Morequito where we were before; for passing down the stream +we went without labour, and against the wind, little less than a hundred +miles a day. As soon as I came to anchor, I sent away one for old +Topiawari, with whom I much desired to have further conference, and +also to deal with him for some one of his country to bring with us into +England, as well to learn the language, as to confer withal by the way, +the time being now spent of any longer stay there. Within three hours +after my messenger came to him, he arrived also, and with him such a +rabble of all sorts of people, and every one loaden with somewhat, as if +it had been a great market or fair in England; and our hungry companies +clustered thick and threefold among their baskets, every one laying hand +on what he liked. After he had rested awhile in my tent, I shut out all +but ourselves and my interpreter, and told him that I knew that both the +Epuremei and the Spaniards were enemies to him, his country and nations: +that the one had conquered Guiana already, and the other sought to +regain the same from them both; and therefore I desired him to instruct +me what he could, both of the passage into the golden parts of Guiana, +and to the civil towns and apparelled people of Inga. He gave me an +answer to this effect: first, that he could not perceive that I meant +to go onward towards the city of Manoa, for neither the time of the year +served, neither could he perceive any sufficient numbers for such an +enterprise. And if I did, I was sure with all my company to be buried +there, for the emperor was of that strength, as that many times so many +men more were too few. Besides, he gave me this good counsel and advised +me to hold it in mind (as for himself, he knew he could not live till +my return), that I should not offer by any means hereafter to invade the +strong parts of Guiana without the help of all those nations which were +also their enemies; for that it was impossible without those, either to +be conducted, to be victualled, or to have aught carried with us, our +people not being able to endure the march in so great heat and travail, +unless the borderers gave them help, to cart with them both their meat +and furniture. For he remembered that in the plains of Macureguarai +three hundred Spaniards were overthrown, who were tired out, and had +none of the borderers to their friends; but meeting their enemies as +they passed the frontier, were environed on all sides, and the people +setting the long dry grass on fire, smothered them, so as they had no +breath to fight, nor could discern their enemies for the great smoke. He +told me further that four days' journey from his town was Macureguarai, +and that those were the next and nearest of the subjects of Inga, and of +the Epuremei, and the first town of apparelled and rich people; and that +all those plates of gold which were scattered among the borderers and +carried to other nations far and near, came from the said Macureguarai +and were there made, but that those of the land within were far finer, +and were fashioned after the images of men, beasts, birds, and fishes. I +asked him whether he thought that those companies that I had there with +me were sufficient to take that town or no; he told me that he thought +they were. I then asked him whether he would assist me with guides, and +some companies of his people to join with us; he answered that he would +go himself with all the borderers, if the rivers did remain fordable, +upon this condition, that I would leave with him till my return again +fifty soldiers, which he undertook to victual. I answered that I had not +above fifty good men in all there; the rest were labourers and rowers, +and that I had no provision to leave with them of powder, shot, apparel, +or aught else, and that without those things necessary for their +defence, they should be in danger of the Spaniards in my absence, who +I knew would use the same measures towards mine that I offered them +at Trinidad. And although upon the motion Captain Caulfield, Captain +Greenvile, my nephew John Gilbert and divers others were desirous to +stay, yet I was resolved that they must needs have perished. For Berreo +expected daily a supply out of Spain, and looked also hourly for his son +to come down from Nuevo Reyno de Granada, with many horse and foot, and +had also in Valencia, in the Caracas, two hundred horse ready to march; +and I could not have spared above forty, and had not any store at all of +powder, lead, or match to have left with them, nor any other provision, +either spade, pickaxe, or aught else to have fortified withal. + +When I had given him reason that I could not at this time leave him such +a company, he then desired me to forbear him and his country for that +time; for he assured me that I should be no sooner three days from the +coast but those Epuremei would invade him, and destroy all the remain of +his people and friends, if he should any way either guide us or assist +us against them. He further alleged that the Spaniards sought his death; +and as they had already murdered his nephew Morequito, lord of that +province, so they had him seventeen days in a chain before he was king +of the country, and led him like a dog from place to place until he had +paid an hundred plates of gold and divers chains of spleen-stones for +his ransom. And now, since he became owner of that province, that they +had many times laid wait to take him, and that they would be now more +vehement when they should understand of his conference with the English. +_And because_, said he, _they would the better displant me, if they +cannot lay hands on me, they have gotten a nephew of mine called +Eparacano, whom they have christened Don Juan, and his son Don Pedro, +whom they have also apparelled and armed, by whom they seek to make a +party against me in mine own country. He also hath taken to wife one +Louiana, of a strong family, which are borderers and neighbours; and +myself now being old and in the hands of death am not able to travel +nor to shift as when I was of younger years._ He therefore prayed us to +defer it till the next year, when he would undertake to draw in all the +borderers to serve us, and then, also, it would be more seasonable to +travel; for at this time of the year we should not be able to pass any +river, the waters were and would be so grown ere our return. + +He farther told me that I could not desire so much to invade +Macureguarai and the rest of Guiana but that the borderers would be more +vehement than I. For he yielded for a chief cause that in the wars with +the Epuremei they were spoiled of their women, and that their wives and +daughters were taken from them; so as for their own parts they desired +nothing of the gold or treasure for their labours, but only to recover +women from the Epuremei. For he farther complained very sadly, as it had +been a matter of great consequence, that whereas they were wont to have +ten or twelve wives, they were now enforced to content themselves +with three or four, and that the lords of the Epuremei had fifty or a +hundred. And in truth they war more for women than either for gold or +dominion. For the lords of countries desire many children of their own +bodies to increase their races and kindreds, for in those consist their +greatest trust and strength. Divers of his followers afterwards desired +me to make haste again, that they might sack the Epuremei, and I asked +them, of what? They answered, Of their women for us, and their gold for +you. For the hope of those many of women they more desire the war than +either for gold or for the recovery of their ancient territories. For +what between the subjects of Inga and the Spaniards, those frontiers are +grown thin of people; and also great numbers are fled to other nations +farther off for fear of the Spaniards. + +After I received this answer of the old man, we fell into consideration +whether it had been of better advice to have entered Macureguarai, and +to have begun a war upon Inga at this time, yea, or no, if the time of +the year and all things else had sorted. For mine own part, as we were +not able to march it for the rivers, neither had any such strength as +was requisite, and durst not abide the coming of the winter, or to +tarry any longer from our ships, I thought it were evil counsel to have +attempted it at that time, although the desire for gold will answer many +objections. But it would have been, in mine opinion, an utter overthrow +to the enterprise, if the same should be hereafter by her Majesty +attempted. For then, whereas now they have heard we were enemies to the +Spaniards and were sent by her Majesty to relieve them, they would as +good cheap have joined with the Spaniards at our return, as to have +yielded unto us, when they had proved that we came both for one errand, +and that both sought but to sack and spoil them. But as yet our desire +gold, or our purpose of invasion, is not known to them of the empire. +And it is likely that if her Majesty undertake the enterprise they will +rather submit themselves to her obedience than to the Spaniards, of +whose cruelty both themselves and the borderers have already tasted. And +therefore, till I had known her Majesty's pleasure, I would rather have +lost the sack of one or two towns, although they might have been very +profitable, than to have defaced or endangered the future hope of so +many millions, and the great good and rich trade which England may be +possessed of thereby. I am assured now that they will all die, even to +the last man, against the Spaniards in hope of our succour and return. +Whereas, otherwise, if I had either laid hands on the borderers or +ransomed the lords, as Berreo did, or invaded the subjects of Inga, I +know all had been lost for hereafter. + +After that I had resolved Topiawari, lord of Aromaia, that I could not +at this time leave with him the companies he desired, and that I was +contented to forbear the enterprise against the Epuremei till the next +year, he freely gave me his only son to take with me into England; and +hoped that though he himself had but a short time to live, yet that by +our means his son should be established after his death. And I left with +him one Francis Sparrow, a servant of Captain Gifford, who was desirous +to tarry, and could describe a country with his pen, and a boy of mine +called Hugh Goodwin, to learn the language. I after asked the manner how +the Epuremei wrought those plates of gold, and how they could melt it +out of the stone. He told me that the most of the gold which they made +in plates and images was not severed from the stone, but that on the +lake of Manoa, and in a multitude of other rivers, they gathered it in +grains of perfect gold and in pieces as big as small stones, and they +put it to a part of copper, otherwise they could not work it; and that +they used a great earthen pot with holes round about it, and when they +had mingled the gold and copper together they fastened canes to the +holes, and so with the breath of men they increased the fire till the +metal ran, and then they cast it into moulds of stone and clay, and so +make those plates and images. I have sent your honours of two sorts such +as I could by chance recover, more to shew the manner of them than +for the value. For I did not in any sort make my desire of gold known, +because I had neither time nor power to have a great quantity. I gave +among them many more pieces of gold than I received, of the new money of +twenty shillings with her Majesty's picture, to wear, with promise that +they would become her servants thenceforth. + +I have also sent your honours of the ore, whereof I know some is as +rich as the earth yieldeth any, of which I know there is sufficient, if +nothing else were to be hoped for. But besides that we were not able to +tarry and search the hills, so we had neither pioneers, bars, sledges, +nor wedges of iron to break the ground, without which there is no +working in mines. But we saw all the hills with stones of the colour +of gold and silver, and we tried them to be no marcasite, and therefore +such as the Spaniards call El madre del oro or "the mother of gold," +which is an undoubted assurance of the general abundance; and myself saw +the outside of many mines of the spar, which I know to be the same that +all covet in this world, and of those more than I will speak of. + +Having learned what I could in Canuri and Aromaia, and received a +faithful promise of the principallest of those provinces to become +servants to her Majesty, and to resist the Spaniards if they made any +attempt in our absence, and that they would draw in the nations about +the lake of Cassipa and those of Iwarawaqueri, I then parted from old +Topiawari, and received his son for a pledge between us, and left with +him two of ours as aforesaid. To Francis Sparrow I gave instructions +to travel to Macureguarai with such merchandises as I left with them, +thereby to learn the place, and if it were possible, to go on to the +great city of Manoa. Which being done, we weighed anchor and coasted the +river on Guiana side, because we came upon the north side, by the lawns +of the Saima and Wikiri. + +There came with us from Aromaia a cacique called Putijma, that commanded +the province of Warapana, which Putijma slew the nine Spaniards upon +Caroli before spoken of; who desired us to rest in the port of his +country, promising to bring us unto a mountain adjoining to his town +that had stones of the colour of gold, which he performed. And after we +had rested there one night I went myself in the morning with most of the +gentlemen of my company over-land towards the said mountain, marching +by a river's side called Mana, leaving on the right hand a town +called Tuteritona, standing in the province of Tarracoa, of which +Wariaaremagoto is principal. Beyond it lieth another town towards the +south, in the valley of Amariocapana, which beareth the name of the said +valley; whose plains stretch themselves some sixty miles in length, east +and west, as fair ground and as beautiful fields as any man hath ever +seen, with divers copses scattered here and there by the river's side, +and all as full of deer as any forest or park in England, and in +every lake and river the like abundance of fish and fowl; of which +Irraparragota is lord. + +From the river of Mana we crossed another river in the said beautiful +valley called Oiana, and rested ourselves by a clear lake which lay in +the middle of the said Oiana; and one of our guides kindling us fire +with two sticks, we stayed awhile to dry our shirts, which with the heat +hung very wet and heavy on our shoulders. Afterwards we sought the ford +to pass over towards the mountain called Iconuri, where Putijma foretold +us of the mine. In this lake we saw one of the great fishes, as big as +a wine pipe, which they call manati, being most excellent and wholesome +meat. But after I perceived that to pass the said river would require +half-a-day's march more, I was not able myself to endure it, and +therefore I sent Captain Keymis with six shot to go on, and gave him +order not to return to the port of Putijma, which is called Chiparepare, +but to take leisure, and to march down the said valley as far as a +river called Cumaca, where I promised to meet him again, Putijma himself +promising also to be his guide. And as they marched, they left the +towns of Emperapana and Capurepana on the right hand, and marched from +Putijma's house, down the said valley of Amariocapana; and we returning +the same day to the river's side, saw by the way many rocks like unto +gold ore, and on the left hand a round mountain which consisted of +mineral stone. + +From hence we rowed down the stream, coasting the province of Parino. +As for the branches of rivers which I overpass in this discourse, those +shall be better expressed in the description, with the mountains of +Aio, Ara, and the rest, which are situate in the provinces of Parino and +Carricurrina. When we were come as far down as the land called Ariacoa, +where Orenoque divideth itself into three great branches, each of them +being most goodly rivers, I sent away Captain Henry Thyn, and Captain +Greenvile with the galley, the nearest way, and took with me Captain +Gifford, Captain Caulfield, Edward Porter, and Captain Eynos with mine +own barge and the two wherries, and went down that branch of Orenoque +which is called Cararoopana, which leadeth towards Emeria, the province +of Carapana, and towards the east sea, as well to find out Captain +Keymis, whom I had sent overland, as also to acquaint myself +with Carapana, who is one of the greatest of all the lords of the +Orenoqueponi. And when I came to the river of Cumaca, to which Putijma +promised to conduct Captain Keymis, I left Captain Eynos and Master +Porter in the said river to expect his coming, and the rest of us rowed +down the stream towards Emeria. + +In this branch called Cararoopana were also many goodly islands, some +of six miles long, some of ten, and some of twenty. When it grew towards +sunset, we entered a branch of a river that fell into Orenoque, called +Winicapora; where I was informed of the mountain of crystal, to which in +truth for the length of the way, and the evil season of the year, I was +not able to march, nor abide any longer upon the journey. We saw it afar +off; and it appeared like a white church-tower of an exceeding height. +There falleth over it a mighty river which toucheth no part of the side +of the mountain, but rusheth over the top of it, and falleth to the +ground with so terrible a noise and clamour, as if a thousand great +bells were knocked one against another. I think there is not in the +world so strange an overfall, nor so wonderful to behold. Berreo told me +that there were diamonds and other precious stones on it, and that they +shined very far off; but what it hath I know not, neither durst he or +any of his men ascend to the top of the said mountain, those people +adjoining being his enemies, as they were, and the way to it so +impassable. + +Upon this river of Winicapora we rested a while, and from thence marched +into the country to a town called after the name of the river, whereof +the captain was one Timitwara, who also offered to conduct me to the top +of the said mountain called Wacarima. But when we came in first to the +house of the said Timitwara, being upon one of their said feast days, +we found them all as drunk as beggars, and the pots walking from one to +another without rest. We that were weary and hot with marching were glad +of the plenty, though a small quantity satisfied us, their drink being +very strong and heady, and so rested ourselves awhile. After we had fed, +we drew ourselves back to our boats upon the river, and there came to us +all the lords of the country, with all such kind of victual as the place +yielded, and with their delicate wine of pinas, and with abundance +of hens and other provisions, and of those stones which we call +spleen-stones. We understood by these chieftains of Winicapora that +their lord, Carapana, was departed from Emeria, which was now in sight, +and that he was fled to Cairamo, adjoining to the mountains of Guiana, +over the valley called Amariocapana, being persuaded by those ten +Spaniards which lay at his house that we would destroy him and his +country. But after these caciques of Winicapora and Saporatona his +followers perceived our purpose, and saw that we came as enemies to the +Spaniards only, and had not so much as harmed any of those nations, no, +though we found them to be of the Spaniards' own servants, they assured +us that Carapana would be as ready to serve us as any of the lords of +the provinces which we had passed; and that he durst do no other till +this day but entertain the Spaniards, his country lying so directly in +their way, and next of all other to any entrance that should be made in +Guiana on that side. And they further assured us, that it was not for +fear of our coming that he was removed, but to be acquitted of the +Spaniards or any other that should come hereafter. For the province of +Cairoma is situate at the mountain foot, which divideth the plains of +Guiana from the countries of the Orenoqueponi; by means whereof if +any should come in our absence into his towns, he would slip over +the mountains into the plains of Guiana among the Epuremei, where the +Spaniards durst not follow him without great force. But in mine opinion, +or rather I assure myself, that Carapana being a notable wise and +subtle fellow, a man of one hundred years of age and therefore of great +experience, is removed to look on, and if he find that we return strong +he will be ours; if not, he will excuse his departure to the Spaniards, +and say it was for fear of our coming. + +We therefore thought it bootless to row so far down the stream, or +to seek any farther of this old fox; and therefore from the river of +Waricapana, which lieth at the entrance of Emeria, we returned again, +and left to the eastward those four rivers which fall from the mountains +of Emeria into Orenoque, which are Waracayari, Coirama, Akaniri, +and Iparoma. Below those four are also these branches and mouths of +Orenoque, which fall into the east sea, whereof the first is Araturi, +the next Amacura, the third Barima, the fourth Wana, the fifth Morooca, +the sixth Paroma, the last Wijmi. Beyond them there fall out of the land +between Orenoque and Amazons fourteen rivers, which I forbear to name, +inhabited by the Arwacas and Cannibals. + +It is now time to return towards the north, and we found it a wearisome +way back from the borders of Emeria, to recover up again to the head of +the river Carerupana, by which we descended, and where we parted +from the galley, which I directed to take the next way to the port of +Toparimaca, by which we entered first. + +All the night it was stormy and dark, and full of thunder and great +showers, so as we were driven to keep close by the banks in our small +boats, being all heartily afraid both of the billow and terrible current +of the river. By the next morning we recovered the mouth of the river +of Cumaca, where we left Captain Eynos and Edward Porter to attend the +coming of Captain Keymis overland; but when we entered the same, they +had heard no news of his arrival, which bred in us a great doubt what +might become of him. I rowed up a league or two farther into the river, +shooting off pieces all the way, that he might know of our being there; +and the next morning we heard them answer us also with a piece. We took +them aboard us, and took our leave of Putijma, their guide, who of all +others most lamented our departure, and offered to send his son with us +into England, if we could have stayed till he had sent back to his +town. But our hearts were cold to behold the great rage and increase of +Orenoque, and therefore departed, and turned toward the west, till we +had recovered the parting of the three branches aforesaid, that we might +put down the stream after the galley. + +The next day we landed on the island of Assapano, which divideth the +river from that branch by which we sent down to Emeria, and there +feasted ourselves with that beast which is called armadillo, presented +unto us before at Winicapora. And the day following, we recovered +the galley at anchor at the port of Toparimaca, and the same evening +departed with very foul weather, and terrible thunder and showers, for +the winter was come on very far. The best was, we went no less than 100 +miles a day down the river; but by the way we entered it was impossible +to return, for that the river of Amana, being in the bottom of the bay +of Guanipa, cannot be sailed back by any means, both the breeze and +current of the sea were so forcible. And therefore we followed a branch +of Orenoque called Capuri, which entered into the sea eastward of our +ships, to the end we might bear with them before the wind; and it was +not without need, for we had by that way as much to cross of the main +sea, after we came to the river's mouth, as between Gravelin and Dover, +in such boats as your honour hath heard. + +To speak of what passed homeward were tedious, either to describe or +name any of the rivers, islands, or villages of the Tivitivas, which +dwell on trees; we will leave all those to the general map. And to be +short, when we were arrived at the sea-side, then grew our greatest +doubt, and the bitterest of all our journey forepassed; for I protest +before God, that we were in a most desperate estate. For the same night +which we anchored in the mouth of the river of Capuri, where it falleth +into the sea, there arose a mighty storm, and the river's mouth was at +least a league broad, so as we ran before night close under the land +with our small boats, and brought the galley as near as we could. But +she had as much ado to live as could be, and there wanted little of her +sinking, and all those in her; for mine own part, I confess I was very +doubtful which way to take, either to go over in the pestered (crowded) +galley, there being but six foot water over the sands for two leagues +together, and that also in the channel, and she drew five; or to +adventure in so great a billow, and in so doubtful weather, to cross the +seas in my barge. The longer we tarried the worse it was, and therefore +I took Captain Gifford, Captain Caulfield, and my cousin Greenvile into +my barge; and after it cleared up about midnight we put ourselves +to God's keeping, and thrust out into the sea, leaving the galley at +anchor, who durst not adventure but by daylight. And so, being all very +sober and melancholy, one faintly cheering another to shew courage, it +pleased God that the next day about nine o'clock, we descried the island +of Trinidad; and steering for the nearest part of it, we kept the shore +till we came to Curiapan, where we found our ships at anchor, than which +there was never to us a more joyful sight. + +Now that it hath pleased God to send us safe to our ships, it is time to +leave Guiana to the sun, whom they worship, and steer away towards the +north. I will, therefore, in a few words finish the discovery thereof. +Of the several nations which we found upon this discovery I will once +again make repetition, and how they are affected. At our first entrance +into Amana, which is one of the outlets of Orenoque, we left on the +right hand of us in the bottom of the bay, lying directly against +Trinidad, a nation of inhuman Cannibals, which inhabit the rivers of +Guanipa and Berbeese. In the same bay there is also a third river, which +is called Areo, which riseth on Paria side towards Cumana, and that +river is inhabited with the Wikiri, whose chief town upon the said river +is Sayma. In this bay there are no more rivers but these three before +rehearsed and the four branches of Amana, all which in the winter thrust +so great abundance of water into the sea, as the same is taken up fresh +two or three leagues from the land. In the passages towards Guiana, that +is, in all those lands which the eight branches of Orenoque fashion into +islands, there are but one sort of people, called Tivitivas, but of two +castes, as they term them, the one called Ciawani, the other Waraweeti, +and those war one with another. + +On the hithermost part of Orenoque, as at Toparimaca and Winicapora, +those are of a nation called Nepoios, and are the followers of Carapana, +lord of Emeria. Between Winicapora and the port of Morequito, which +standeth in Aromaia, and all those in the valley of Amariocapana are +called Orenoqueponi, and did obey Morequito and are now followers of +Topiawari. Upon the river of Caroli are the Canuri, which are governed +by a woman who is inheritrix of that province; who came far off to see +our nation, and asked me divers questions of her Majesty, being much +delighted with the discourse of her Majesty's greatness, and wondering +at such reports as we truly made of her Highness' many virtues. And +upon the head of Caroli and on the lake of Cassipa are the three +strong nations of the Cassipagotos. Right south into the land are the +Capurepani and Emparepani, and beyond those, adjoining to Macureguarai, +the first city of Inga, are the Iwarawakeri. All these are professed +enemies to the Spaniards, and to the rich Epuremei also. To the west of +Caroli are divers nations of Cannibals and of those Ewaipanoma without +heads. Directly west are the Amapaias and Anebas, which are also +marvellous rich in gold. The rest towards Peru we will omit. On the +north of Orenoque, between it and the West Indies, are the Wikiri, +Saymi, and the rest before spoken of, all mortal enemies to the +Spaniards. On the south side of the main mouth of Orenoque are the +Arwacas; and beyond them, the Cannibals; and to the south of them, the +Amazons. + +To make mention of the several beasts, birds, fishes, fruits, flowers, +gums, sweet woods, and of their several religions and customs, would for +the first require as many volumes as those of Gesnerus, and for the +next another bundle of Decades. The religion of the Epuremei is the same +which the Ingas, emperors of Peru, used, which may be read in Cieza and +other Spanish stories; how they believe the immortality of the soul, +worship the sun, and bury with them alive their best beloved wives and +treasure, as they likewise do in Pegu in the East Indies, and other +places. The Orenoqueponi bury not their wives with them, but their +jewels, hoping to enjoy them again. The Arwacas dry the bones of their +lords, and their wives and friends drink them in powder. In the graves +of the Peruvians the Spaniards found their greatest abundance of +treasure. The like, also, is to be found among these people in every +province. They have all many wives, and the lords five-fold to the +common sort. Their wives never eat with their husbands, nor among +the men, but serve their husbands at meals and afterwards feed by +themselves. Those that are past their younger years make all their bread +and drink, and work their cotton-beds, and do all else of service and +labour; for the men do nothing but hunt, fish, play, and drink, when +they are out of the wars. + +I will enter no further into discourse of their manners, laws, and +customs. And because I have not myself seen the cities of Inga I cannot +avow on my credit what I have heard, although it be very likely that the +emperor Inga hath built and erected as magnificent palaces in Guiana as +his ancestors did in Peru; which were for their riches and rareness most +marvellous, and exceeding all in Europe, and, I think, of the world, +China excepted, which also the Spaniards, which I had, assured me to be +true, as also the nations of the borderers, who, being but savages to +those of the inland, do cause much treasure to be buried with them. +For I was informed of one of the caciques of the valley of Amariocapana +which had buried with him a little before our arrival a chair of gold +most curiously wrought, which was made either in Macureguarai adjoining +or in Manoa. But if we should have grieved them in their religion at +the first, before they had been taught better, and have digged up their +graves, we had lost them all. And therefore I held my first resolution, +that her Majesty should either accept or refuse the enterprise ere +anything should be done that might in any sort hinder the same. And if +Peru had so many heaps of gold, whereof those Ingas were princes, and +that they delighted so much therein, no doubt but this which now liveth +and reigneth in Manoa hath the same humour, and, I am assured, hath +more abundance of gold within his territory than all Peru and the West +Indies. + +For the rest, which myself have seen, I will promise these things that +follow, which I know to be true. Those that are desirous to discover and +to see many nations may be satisfied within this river, which bringeth +forth so many arms and branches leading to several countries and +provinces, above 2,000 miles east and west and 800 miles south +and north, and of these the most either rich in gold or in other +merchandises. The common soldier shall here fight for gold, and pay +himself, instead of pence, with plates of half-a-foot broad, whereas +he breaketh his bones in other wars for provant and penury. Those +commanders and chieftains that shoot at honour and abundance shall find +there more rich and beautiful cities, more temples adorned with golden +images, more sepulchres filled with treasure, than either Cortes found +in Mexico or Pizarro in Peru. And the shining glory of this conquest +will eclipse all those so far-extended beams of the Spanish nation. +There is no country which yieldeth more pleasure to the inhabitants, +either for those common delights of hunting, hawking, fishing, fowling, +and the rest, than Guiana doth; it hath so many plains, clear rivers, +and abundance of pheasants, partridges, quails, rails, cranes, herons, +and all other fowl; deer of all sorts, porks, hares, lions, tigers, +leopards, and divers other sorts of beasts, either for chase or food. It +hath a kind of beast called cama or anta (tapir), as big as an English +beef, and in great plenty. To speak of the several sorts of every kind I +fear would be troublesome to the reader, and therefore I will omit them, +and conclude that both for health, good air, pleasure, and riches, I am +resolved it cannot be equalled by any region either in the east or west. +Moreover the country is so healthful, as of an hundred persons and +more, which lay without shift most sluttishly, and were every day almost +melted with heat in rowing and marching, and suddenly wet again with +great showers, and did eat of all sorts of corrupt fruits, and made +meals of fresh fish without seasoning, of tortugas, of lagartos or +crocodiles, and of all sorts good and bad, without either order or +measure, and besides lodged in the open air every night, we lost not any +one, nor had one ill-disposed to my knowledge; nor found any calentura +or other of those pestilent diseases which dwell in all hot regions, and +so near the equinoctial line. + +Where there is store of gold it is in effect needless to remember other +commodities for trade. But it hath, towards the south part of the river, +great quantities of brazil-wood, and divers berries that dye a most +perfect crimson and carnation; and for painting, all France, Italy, or +the East Indies yield none such. For the more the skin is washed, the +fairer the colour appeareth, and with which even those brown and +tawny women spot themselves and colour their cheeks. All places yield +abundance of cotton, of silk, of balsamum, and of those kinds most +excellent and never known in Europe, of all sorts of gums, of Indian +pepper; and what else the countries may afford within the land we know +not, neither had we time to abide the trial and search. The soil besides +is so excellent and so full of rivers, as it will carry sugar, ginger, +and all those other commodities which the West Indies have. + +The navigation is short, for it may be sailed with an ordinary wind +in six weeks, and in the like time back again; and by the way neither +lee-shore, enemies' coast, rocks, nor sands. All which in the voyages to +the West Indies and all other places we are subject unto; as the channel +of Bahama, coming from the West Indies, cannot well be passed in the +winter, and when it is at the best, it is a perilous and a fearful +place; the rest of the Indies for calms and diseases very troublesome, +and the sea about the Bermudas a hellish sea for thunder, lightning, and +storms. + +This very year (1595) there were seventeen sail of Spanish ships lost +in the channel of Bahama, and the great Philip, like to have sunk at the +Bermudas, was put back to St. Juan de Puerto Rico; and so it falleth out +in that navigation every year for the most part. Which in this voyage +are not to be feared; for the time of year to leave England is best +in July, and the summer in Guiana is in October, November, December, +January, February, and March, and then the ships may depart thence in +April, and so return again into England in June. So as they shall never +be subject to winter weather, either coming, going, or staying there: +which, for my part, I take to be one of the greatest comforts and +encouragements that can be thought on, having, as I have done, tasted +in this voyage by the West Indies so many calms, so much heat, such +outrageous gusts, such weather, and contrary winds. + +To conclude, Guiana is a country that hath yet her maidenhead, never +sacked, turned, nor wrought; the face of the earth hath not been torn, +nor the virtue and salt of the soil spent by manurance. The graves have +not been opened for gold, the mines not broken with sledges, nor their +images pulled down out of their temples. It hath never been entered by +any army of strength, and never conquered or possessed by any Christian +prince. It is besides so defensible, that if two forts be builded in +one of the provinces which I have seen, the flood setteth in so near the +bank, where the channel also lieth, that no ship can pass up but within +a pike's length of the artillery, first of the one, and afterwards of +the other. Which two forts will be a sufficient guard both to the empire +of Inga, and to an hundred other several kingdoms, lying within the said +river, even to the city of Quito in Peru. + +There is therefore great difference between the easiness of the conquest +of Guiana, and the defence of it being conquered, and the West or East +Indies. Guiana hath but one entrance by the sea, if it hath that, for +any vessels of burden. So as whosoever shall first possess it, it shall +be found unaccessible for any enemy, except he come in wherries, barges, +or canoas, or else in flat-bottomed boats; and if he do offer to enter +it in that manner, the woods are so thick 200 miles together upon the +rivers of such entrance, as a mouse cannot sit in a boat unhit from +the bank. By land it is more impossible to approach; for it hath the +strongest situation of any region under the sun, and it is so environed +with impassable mountains on every side, as it is impossible to victual +any company in the passage. Which hath been well proved by the Spanish +nation, who since the conquest of Peru have never left five years free +from attempting this empire, or discovering some way into it; and yet +of three-and-twenty several gentlemen, knights, and noblemen, there was +never any that knew which way to lead an army by land, or to conduct +ships by sea, anything near the said country. Orellana, of whom the +river of Amazons taketh name, was the first, and Don Antonio de Berreo, +whom we displanted, the last: and I doubt much whether he himself or +any of his yet know the best way into the said empire. It can therefore +hardly be regained, if any strength be formerly set down, but in one +or two places, and but two or three crumsters (Dutch, Kromsteven or +Kromster, a vessel with a bent prow) or galleys built and furnished upon +the river within. The West Indies have many ports, watering places, +and landings; and nearer than 300 miles to Guiana, no man can harbour a +ship, except he know one only place, which is not learned in haste, +and which I will undertake there is not any one of my companies that +knoweth, whosoever hearkened most after it. + +Besides, by keeping one good fort, or building one town of strength, the +whole empire is guarded; and whatsoever companies shall be afterwards +planted within the land, although in twenty several provinces, those +shall be able all to reunite themselves upon any occasion either by the +way of one river, or be able to march by land without either wood, bog, +or mountain. Whereas in the West Indies there are few towns or provinces +that can succour or relieve one the other by land or sea. By land the +countries are either desert, mountainous, or strong enemies. By sea, if +any man invade to the eastward, those to the west cannot in many months +turn against the breeze and eastern wind. Besides, the Spaniards are +therein so dispersed as they are nowhere strong, but in Nueva Espana +only; the sharp mountains, the thorns, and poisoned prickles, the sandy +and deep ways in the valleys, the smothering heat and air, and want of +water in other places are their only and best defence; which, because +those nations that invade them are not victualled or provided to stay, +neither have any place to friend adjoining, do serve them instead of +good arms and great multitudes. + +The West Indies were first offered her Majesty's grandfather by +Columbus, a stranger, in whom there might be doubt of deceit; and +besides it was then thought incredible that there were such and so many +lands and regions never written of before. This Empire is made known to +her Majesty by her own vassal, and by him that oweth to her more duty +than an ordinary subject; so that it shall ill sort with the many graces +and benefits which I have received to abuse her Highness, either with +fables or imaginations. The country is already discovered, many nations +won to her Majesty's love and obedience, and those Spaniards which have +latest and longest laboured about the conquest, beaten out, discouraged, +and disgraced, which among these nations were thought invincible. Her +Majesty may in this enterprise employ all those soldiers and gentlemen +that are younger brethren, and all captains and chieftains that want +employment, and the charge will be only the first setting out in +victualling and arming them; for after the first or second year I doubt +not but to see in London a Contractation-House (the whole trade of +Spanish America passed through the Casa de Contratacion at Seville) +of more receipt for Guiana than there is now in Seville for the West +Indies. + +And I am resolved that if there were but a small army afoot in Guiana, +marching towards Manoa, the chief city of Inga, he would yield to her +Majesty by composition so many hundred thousand pounds yearly as should +both defend all enemies abroad, and defray all expenses at home; and +that he would besides pay a garrison of three or four thousand soldiers +very royally to defend him against other nations. For he cannot but +know how his predecessors, yea, how his own great uncles, Guascar and +Atabalipa, sons to Guiana-Capac, emperor of Peru, were, while they +contended for the empire, beaten out by the Spaniards, and that both of +late years and ever since the said conquest, the Spaniards have sought +the passages and entry of his country; and of their cruelties used to +the borderers he cannot be ignorant. In which respects no doubt but he +will be brought to tribute with great gladness; if not, he hath neither +shot nor iron weapon in all his empire, and therefore may easily be +conquered. + +And I further remember that Berreo confessed to me and others, which I +protest before the Majesty of God to be true, that there was found among +the prophecies in Peru, at such time as the empire was reduced to the +Spanish obedience, in their chiefest temples, amongst divers others +which foreshadowed the loss of the said empire, that from Inglatierra +those Ingas should be again in time to come restored, and delivered from +the servitude of the said conquerors. And I hope, as we with these few +hands have displanted the first garrison, and driven them out of the +said country, so her Majesty will give order for the rest, and either +defend it, and hold it as tributary, or conquer and keep it as empress +of the same. For whatsoever prince shall possess it, shall be greatest; +and if the king of Spain enjoy it, he will become unresistible. Her +Majesty hereby shall confirm and strengthen the opinions of all nations +as touching her great and princely actions. And where the south border +of Guiana reacheth to the dominion and empire of the Amazons, those +women shall hereby hear the name of a virgin, which is not only able to +defend her own territories and her neighbours, but also to invade and +conquer so great empires and so far removed. + +To speak more at this time I fear would be but troublesome: I trust in +God, this being true, will suffice, and that he which is King of all +Kings, and Lord of Lords, will put it into her heart which is Lady of +Ladies to possess it. If not, I will judge those men worthy to be kings +thereof, that by her grace and leave will undertake it of themselves. + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Discovery of Guiana, by Sir Walter Raleigh + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE DISCOVERY OF GUIANA *** + +***** This file should be named 2272.txt or 2272.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/2/7/2272/ + +Produced by Dagny; John Bickers and David Widger + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Courtier and statesman, soldier and sailor, + scientist and man of letters, he engaged in almost all the main + lines of public activity in his time, and was distinguished in + them all. + + His father was a Devonshire gentleman of property, connected with + many of the distinguished families of the south of England. Walter + was born about 1552 and was educated at Oxford. He first saw + military service in the Huguenot army in France in 1569, and in + 1578 engaged, with his half-brother, Sir Humphrey Gilbert, in the + first of his expeditions against the Spaniards. After some service + in Ireland, he attracted the attention of the Queen, and rapidly + rose to the perilous position of her chief favorite. With her + approval, he fitted out two expeditions for the colonization of + Virginia, neither of which did his royal mistress permit him to + lead in person, and neither of which succeeded in establishing a + permanent settlement. + + After about six years of high favor, Raleigh found his position at + court endangered by the rivalry of Essex, and in 1592, on + returning from convoying a squadron he had fitted out against the + Spanish, he was thrown into the Tower by the orders of the Queen, + who had discovered an intrigue between him and one of her ladies + whom he subsequently married. He was ultimately released, engaged + in various naval exploits, and in 1594 sailed for South America on + the voyage described in the following narrative. + + On the death of Elizabeth, Raleigh's misfortunes increased. He was + accused of treason against James I, condemned, reprieved, and + imprisoned for twelve years, during which he wrote his "History of + the World," and engaged in scientific researches. In 1616 he was + liberated, to make another attempt to find the gold mine in + Venezuela; but the expedition was disastrous, and, on his return, + Raleigh was executed on the old charge in 1618. In his vices as in + his virtues, Raleigh is a thorough representative of the great + adventurers who laid the foundations of the British Empire. + + + + + +RALEIGH'S DISCOVERY OF GUIANA + + + +The Discovery of the large, rich, and beautiful EMPIRE Of GUIANA; with +a Relation of the great and golden CITY of MANOA, which the Spaniards +call EL DORADO, and the PROVINCES of EMERIA, AROMAIA, AMAPAIA, and +other Countries, with their rivers, adjoining. Performed in the year +1595 by Sir WALTER RALEIGH, KNIGHT, CAPTAIN of her Majesty's GUARD, +Lord Warden of the STANNARIES, and her Highness' LIEUTENANT-GENERAL of +the COUNTY of CORNWALL. + + + +To the Right Honourable my singular good Lord and kinsman CHARLES +HOWARD, Knight of the Garter, Baron, and Councillor, and of the +Admirals of England the most renowned; and to the Right Honourable SIR +ROBERT CECIL, KNIGHT, Councillor in her Highness' Privy Councils. + + + +For your Honours' many honourable and friendly parts, I have hitherto +only returned promises; and now, for answer of both your adventures, I +have sent you a bundle of papers, which I have divided between your +Lordship and Sir Robert Cecil, in these two respects chiefly; first, +for that it is reason that wasteful factors, when they have consumed +such stocks as they had in trust, do yield some colour for the same in +their account; secondly, for that I am assured that whatsoever shall +be done, or written, by me, shall need a double protection and +defence. The trial that I had of both your loves, when I was left of +all, but of malice and revenge, makes me still presume that you will +be pleased (knowing what little power I had to perform aught, and the +great advantage of forewarned enemies) to answer that out of +knowledge, which others shall but object out of malice. In my more +happy times as I did especially honour you both, so I found that your +loves sought me out in the darkest shadow of adversity, and the same +affection which accompanied my better fortune soared not away from me +in my many miseries; all which though I cannot requite, yet I shall +ever acknowledge; and the great debt which I have no power to pay, I +can do no more for a time but confess to be due. It is true that as my +errors were great, so they have yielded very grievous effects; and if +aught might have been deserved in former times, to have counterpoised +any part of offences, the fruit thereof, as it seemeth, was long +before fallen from the tree, and the dead stock only remained. I did +therefore, even in the winter of my life, undertake these travails, +fitter for bodies less blasted with misfortunes, for men of greater +ability, and for minds of better encouragement, that thereby, if it +were possible, I might recover but the moderation of excess, and the +least taste of the greatest plenty formerly possessed. If I had known +other way to win, if I had imagined how greater adventures might have +regained, if I could conceive what farther means I might yet use but +even to appease so powerful displeasure, I would not doubt but for one +year more to hold fast my soul in my teeth till it were performed. Of +that little remain I had, I have wasted in effect all herein. I have +undergone many constructions; I have been accompanied with many +sorrows, with labour, hunger, heat, sickness, and peril; it appeareth, +notwithstanding, that I made no other bravado of going to the sea, +than was meant, and that I was never hidden in Cornwall, or elsewhere, +as was supposed. They have grossly belied me that forejudged that I +would rather become a servant to the Spanish king than return; and the +rest were much mistaken, who would have persuaded that I was too +easeful and sensual to undertake a journey of so great travail. But if +what I have done receive the gracious construction of a painful +pilgrimage, and purchase the least remission, I shall think all too +little, and that there were wanting to the rest many miseries. But if +both the times past, the present, and what may be in the future, do +all by one grain of gall continue in eternal distaste, I do not then +know whether I should bewail myself, either for my too much travail +and expense, or condemn myself for doing less than that which can +deserve nothing. From myself I have deserved no thanks, for I am +returned a beggar, and withered; but that I might have bettered my +poor estate, it shall appear from the following discourse, if I had +not only respected her Majesty's future honour and riches. + +It became not the former fortune, in which I once lived, to go +journeys of picory (marauding); it had sorted ill with the offices of +honour, which by her Majesty's grace I hold this day in England, to +run from cape to cape and from place to place, for the pillage of +ordinary prizes. Many years since I had knowledge, by relation, of +that mighty, rich, and beautiful empire of Guiana, and of that great +and golden city, which the Spaniards call El Dorado, and the naturals +Manoa, which city was conquered, re-edified, and enlarged by a younger +son of Guayna-capac, Emperor of Peru, at such time as Francisco +Pizarro and others conquered the said empire from his two elder +brethren, Guascar and Atabalipa, both then contending for the same, +the one being favoured by the orejones of Cuzco, the other by the +people of Caxamalca. I sent my servant Jacob Whiddon, the year before, +to get knowledge of the passages, and I had some light from Captain +Parker, sometime my servant, and now attending on your Lordship, that +such a place there was to the southward of the great bay of Charuas, +or Guanipa: but I found that it was 600 miles farther off than they +supposed, and many impediments to them unknown and unheard. After I +had displanted Don Antonio de Berreo, who was upon the same +enterprise, leaving my ships at Trinidad, at the port called Curiapan, +I wandered 400 miles into the said country by land and river; the +particulars I will leave to the following discourse. + +The country hath more quantity of gold, by manifold, than the best +parts of the Indies, or Peru. All the most of the kings of the borders +are already become her Majesty's vassals, and seem to desire nothing +more than her Majesty's protection and the return of the English +nation. It hath another ground and assurance of riches and glory than +the voyages of the West Indies; an easier way to invade the best parts +thereof than by the common course. The king of Spain is not so +impoverished by taking three or four port towns in America as we +suppose; neither are the riches of Peru or Nueva Espana so left by the +sea side as it can be easily washed away with a great flood, or spring +tide, or left dry upon the sands on a low ebb. The port towns are few +and poor in respect of the rest within the land, and are of little +defence, and are only rich when the fleets are to receive the treasure +for Spain; and we might think the Spaniards very simple, having so +many horses and slaves, if they could not upon two days' warning carry +all the gold they have into the land, and far enough from the reach of +our footmen, especially the Indies being, as they are for the most +part, so mountainous, full of woods, rivers, and marishes. In the port +towns of the province of Venezuela, as Cumana, Coro, and St. Iago +(whereof Coro and St. Iago were taken by Captain Preston, and Cumana +and St. Josepho by us) we found not the value of one real of plate in +either. But the cities of Barquasimeta, Valencia, St. Sebastian, +Cororo, St. Lucia, Laguna, Maracaiba, and Truxillo, are not so easily +invaded. Neither doth the burning of those on the coast impoverish the +king of Spain any one ducat; and if we sack the River of Hacha, St. +Martha, and Carthagena, which are the ports of Nuevo Reyno and +Popayan, there are besides within the land, which are indeed rich and +prosperous, the towns and cities of Merida, Lagrita, St. Christophoro, +the great cities of Pamplona, Santa Fe de Bogota, Tunxa, and Mozo, +where the emeralds are found, the towns and cities of Marequita, +Velez, la Villa de Leiva, Palma, Honda, Angostura, the great city of +Timana, Tocaima, St. Aguila, Pasto, [St.] Iago, the great city of +Popayan itself, Los Remedios, and the rest. If we take the ports and +villages within the bay of Uraba in the kingdom or rivers of Darien +and Caribana, the cities and towns of St. Juan de Rodas, of Cassaris, +of Antiochia, Caramanta, Cali, and Anserma have gold enough to pay the +king's part, and are not easily invaded by way of the ocean. Or if +Nombre de Dios and Panama be taken, in the province of Castilla del +Oro, and the villages upon the rivers of Cenu and Chagre; Peru hath, +besides those, and besides the magnificent cities of Quito and Lima, +so many islands, ports, cities, and mines as if I should name them +with the rest it would seem incredible to the reader. Of all which, +because I have written a particular treatise of the West Indies, I +will omit the repetition at this time, seeing that in the said +treatise I have anatomized the rest of the sea towns as well of +Nicaragua, Yucatan, Nueva Espana, and the islands, as those of the +inland, and by what means they may be best invaded, as far as any mean +judgment may comprehend. + +But I hope it shall appear that there is a way found to answer every +man's longing; a better Indies for her Majesty than the king of Spain +hath any; which if it shall please her Highness to undertake, I shall +most willingly end the rest of my days in following the same. If it be +left to the spoil and sackage of common persons, if the love and +service of so many nations be despised, so great riches and so mighty +an empire refused; I hope her Majesty will yet take my humble desire +and my labour therein in gracious part, which, if it had not been in +respect of her Highness' future honour and riches, could have laid +hands on and ransomed many of the kings and caciqui of the country, +and have had a reasonable proportion of gold for their redemption. But +I have chosen rather to bear the burden of poverty than reproach; and +rather to endure a second travail, and the chances thereof, than to +have defaced an enterprise of so great assurance, until I knew whether +it pleased God to put a disposition in her princely and royal heart +either to follow or forslow (neglect, decline, lose through sloth) the +same. I will therefore leave it to His ordinance that hath only power +in all things; and do humbly pray that your honours will excuse such +errors as, without the defence of art, overrun in every part the +following discourse, in which I have neither studied phrase, form, nor +fashion; that you will be pleased to esteem me as your own, though +over dearly bought, and I shall ever remain ready to do you all honour +and service. + + + +TO THE READER + +Because there have been divers opinions conceived of the gold ore +brought from Guiana, and for that an alderman of London and an officer +of her Majesty's mint hath given out that the same is of no price, I +have thought good by the addition of these lines to give answer as +well to the said malicious slander as to other objections. It is true +that while we abode at the island of Trinidad I was informed by an +Indian that not far from the port where we anchored there were found +certain mineral stones which they esteemed to be gold, and were +thereunto persuaded the rather for that they had seen both English and +Frenchmen gather and embark some quantities thereof. Upon this +likelihood I sent forty men, and gave order that each one should bring +a stone of that mine, to make trial of the goodness; which being +performed, I assured them at their return that the same was marcasite, +and of no riches or value. Notwithstanding, divers, trusting more to +their own sense than to my opinion, kept of the said marcasite, and +have tried thereof since my return, in divers places. In Guiana itself +I never saw marcasite; but all the rocks, mountains, all stones in the +plains, woods, and by the rivers' sides, are in effect thorough- +shining, and appear marvellous rich; which, being tried to be no +marcasite, are the true signs of rich minerals, but are no other than +El madre del oro, as the Spaniards term them, which is the mother of +gold, or, as it is said by others, the scum of gold. Of divers sorts +of these many of my company brought also into England, every one +taking the fairest for the best, which is not general. For mine own +part, I did not countermand any man's desire or opinion, and I could +have afforded them little if I should have denied them the pleasing of +their own fancies therein; but I was resolved that gold must be found +either in grains, separate from the stone, as it is in most of the +rivers in Guiana, or else in a kind of hard stone, which we call the +white spar, of which I saw divers hills, and in sundry places, but had +neither time nor men, nor instruments fit for labour. Near unto one of +the rivers I found of the said white spar or flint a very great ledge +or bank, which I endeavoured to break by all the means I could, +because there appeared on the outside some small grains of gold; but +finding no mean to work the same upon the upper part, seeking the +sides and circuit of the said rock, I found a clift in the same, from +whence with daggers, and with the head of an axe, we got out some +small quantity thereof; of which kind of white stone, wherein gold is +engendered, we saw divers hills and rocks in every part of Guiana +wherein we travelled. Of this there have been made many trials; and in +London it was first assayed by Master Westwood, a refiner dwelling in +Wood Street, and it held after the rate of twelve or thirteen thousand +pounds a ton. Another sort was afterward tried by Master Bulmar, and +Master Dimock, assay-master; and it held after the rate of three and +twenty thousand pounds a ton. There was some of it again tried by +Master Palmer, Comptroller of the Mint, and Master Dimock in +Goldsmith's Hall, and it held after six and twenty thousand and nine +hundred pounds a ton. There was also at the same time, and by the same +persons, a trial made of the dust of the said mine; which held eight +pounds and six ounces weight of gold in the hundred. There was +likewise at the same time a trial of an image of copper made in +Guiana, which held a third part of gold, besides divers trials made in +the country, and by others in London. But because there came ill with +the good, and belike the said alderman was not presented with the +best, it hath pleased him therefore to scandal all the rest, and to +deface the enterprise as much as in him lieth. It hath also been +concluded by divers that if there had been any such ore in Guiana, and +the same discovered, that I would have brought home a greater quantity +thereof. First, I was not bound to satisfy any man of the quantity, +but only such as adventured, if any store had been returned thereof; +but it is very true that had all their mountains been of massy gold it +was impossible for us to have made any longer stay to have wrought the +same; and whosoever hath seen with what strength of stone the best +gold ore is environed, he will not think it easy to be had out in +heaps, and especially by us, who had neither men, instruments, nor +time, as it is said before, to perform the same. + +There were on this discovery no less than an hundred persons, who can +all witness that when we passed any branch of the river to view the +land within, and stayed from our boats but six hours, we were driven +to wade to the eyes at our return; and if we attempted the same the +day following, it was impossible either to ford it, or to swim it, +both by reason of the swiftness, and also for that the borders were so +pestered with fast woods, as neither boat nor man could find place +either to land or to embark; for in June, July, August, and September +it is impossible to navigate any of those rivers; for such is the fury +of the current, and there are so many trees and woods overflown, as if +any boat but touch upon any tree or stake it is impossible to save any +one person therein. And ere we departed the land it ran with such +swiftness as we drave down, most commonly against the wind, little +less than an hundred miles a day. Besides, our vessels were no other +than wherries, one little barge, a small cock-boat, and a bad galiota +which we framed in haste for that purpose at Trinidad; and those +little boats had nine or ten men apiece, with all their victuals and +arms. It is further true that we were about four hundred miles from +our ships, and had been a month from them, which also we left weakly +manned in an open road, and had promised our return in fifteen days. + +Others have devised that the same ore was had from Barbary, and that +we carried it with us into Guiana. Surely the singularity of that +device I do not well comprehend. For mine own part, I am not so much +in love with these long voyages as to devise thereby to cozen myself, +to lie hard, to fare worse, to be subjected to perils, to diseases, to +ill savours, to be parched and withered, and withal to sustain the +care and labour of such an enterprise, except the same had more +comfort than the fetching of marcasite in Guiana, or buying of gold +ore in Barbary. But I hope the better sort will judge me by +themselves, and that the way of deceit is not the way of honour or +good opinion. I have herein consumed much time, and many crowns; and I +had no other respect or desire than to serve her Majesty and my +country thereby. If the Spanish nation had been of like belief to +these detractors we should little have feared or doubted their +attempts, wherewith we now are daily threatened. But if we now +consider of the actions both of Charles the Fifth, who had the +maidenhead of Peru and the abundant treasures of Atabalipa, together +with the affairs of the Spanish king now living, what territories he +hath purchased, what he hath added to the acts of his predecessors, +how many kingdoms he hath endangered, how many armies, garrisons, and +navies he hath, and doth maintain, the great losses which he hath +repaired, as in Eighty-eight above an hundred sail of great ships with +their artillery, and that no year is less infortunate, but that many +vessels, treasures, and people are devoured, and yet notwithstanding +he beginneth again like a storm to threaten shipwrack to us all; we +shall find that these abilities rise not from the trades of sacks and +Seville oranges, nor from aught else that either Spain, Portugal, or +any of his other provinces produce; it is his Indian gold that +endangereth and disturbeth all the nations of Europe; it purchaseth +intelligence, creepeth into counsels, and setteth bound loyalty at +liberty in the greatest monarchies of Europe. If the Spanish king can +keep us from foreign enterprises, and from the impeachment of his +trades, either by offer of invasion, or by besieging us in Britain, +Ireland, or elsewhere, he hath then brought the work of our peril in +great forwardness. + +Those princes that abound in treasure have great advantages over the +rest, if they once constrain them to a defensive war, where they are +driven once a year or oftener to cast lots for their own garments; and +from all such shall all trades and intercourse be taken away, to the +general loss and impoverishment of the kingdom and commonweal so +reduced. Besides, when our men are constrained to fight, it hath not +the like hope as when they are pressed and encouraged by the desire of +spoil and riches. Farther, it is to be doubted how those that in time +of victory seem to affect their neighbour nations will remain after +the first view of misfortunes or ill success; to trust, also, to the +doubtfulness of a battle is but a fearful and uncertain adventure, +seeing therein fortune is as likely to prevail as virtue. It shall not +be necessary to allege all that might be said, and therefore I will +thus conclude; that whatsoever kingdom shall be enforced to defend +itself may be compared to a body dangerously diseased, which for a +season may be preserved with vulgar medicines, but in a short time, +and by little and little, the same must needs fall to the ground and +be dissolved. I have therefore laboured all my life, both according to +my small power and persuasion, to advance all those attempts that +might either promise return of profit to ourselves, or at least be a +let and impeachment to the quiet course and plentiful trades of the +Spanish nation; who, in my weak judgement, by such a war were as +easily endangered and brought from his powerfulness as any prince in +Europe, if it be considered from how many kingdoms and nations his +revenues are gathered, and those so weak in their own beings and so +far severed from mutual succour. But because such a preparation and +resolution is not to be hoped for in haste, and that the time which +our enemies embrace cannot be had again to advantage, I will hope that +these provinces, and that empire now by me discovered, shall suffice +to enable her Majesty and the whole kingdom with no less quantities of +treasure than the king of Spain hath in all the Indies, East and West, +which he possesseth; which if the same be considered and followed, ere +the Spaniards enforce the same, and if her Majesty will undertake it, +I will be contented to lose her Highness' favour and good opinion for +ever, and my life withal, if the same be not found rather to exceed +than to equal whatsoever is in this discourse promised and declared. I +will now refer the reader to the following discourse, with the hope +that the perilous and chargeable labours and endeavours of such as +thereby seek the profit and honour of her Majesty, and the English +nation, shall by men of quality and virtue receive such construction +and good acceptance as themselves would like to be rewarded withal in +the like. + + + +THE DISCOVERY[*] OF GUIANA[+] + +[*] Exploration + +[+] The name is derived from the Guayano Indians, on the Orinoco. + +On Thursday, the sixth of February, in the year 1595, we departed +England, and the Sunday following had sight of the north cape of +Spain, the wind for the most part continuing prosperous; we passed in +sight of the Burlings, and the Rock, and so onwards for the Canaries, +and fell with Fuerteventura the 17. of the same month, where we spent +two or three days, and relieved our companies with some fresh meat. +From thence we coasted by the Grand Canaria, and so to Teneriffe, and +stayed there for the Lion's Whelp, your Lordship's ship, and for +Captain Amyas Preston and the rest. But when after seven or eight days +we found them not, we departed and directed our course for Trinidad, +with mine own ship, and a small barque of Captain Cross's only; for we +had before lost sight of a small galego on the coast of Spain, which +came with us from Plymouth. We arrived at Trinidad the 22. of March, +casting anchor at Point Curiapan, which the Spaniards call Punta de +Gallo, which is situate in eight degrees or thereabouts. We abode +there four or five days, and in all that time we came not to the +speech of any Indian or Spaniard. On the coast we saw a fire, as we +sailed from the Point Carao towards Curiapan, but for fear of the +Spaniards none durst come to speak with us. I myself coasted it in my +barge close aboard the shore and landed in every cove, the better to +know the island, while the ships kept the channel. From Curiapan after +a few days we turned up north-east to recover that place which the +Spaniards call Puerto de los Espanoles (now Port of Spain), and the +inhabitants Conquerabia; and as before, revictualling my barge, I left +the ships and kept by the shore, the better to come to speech with +some of the inhabitants, and also to understand the rivers, watering- +places, and ports of the island, which, as it is rudely done, my +purpose is to send your Lordship after a few days. From Curiapan I +came to a port and seat of Indians called Parico, where we found a +fresh water river, but saw no people. From thence I rowed to another +port, called by the naturals Piche, and by the Spaniards Tierra de +Brea. In the way between both were divers little brooks of fresh +water, and one salt river that had store of oysters upon the branches +of the trees, and were very salt and well tasted. All their oysters +grow upon those boughs and sprays, and not on the ground; the like is +commonly seen in other places of the West Indies, and elsewhere. This +tree is described by Andrew Thevet, in his France Antarctique, and the +form figured in the book as a plant very strange; and by Pliny in his +twelfth book of his Natural History. But in this island, as also in +Guiana, there are very many of them. + +At this point, called Tierra de Brea or Piche, there is that abundance +of stone pitch that all the ships of the world may be therewith laden +from thence; and we made trial of it in trimming our ships to be most +excellent good, and melteth not with the sun as the pitch of Norway, +and therefore for ships trading the south parts very profitable. From +thence we went to the mountain foot called Annaperima, and so passing +the river Carone, on which the Spanish city was seated, we met with +our ships at Puerto de los Espanoles or Conquerabia. + +This island of Trinidad hath the form of a sheephook, and is but +narrow; the north part is very mountainous; the soil is very +excellent, and will bear sugar, ginger, or any other commodity that +the Indies yield. It hath store of deer, wild porks, fruit, fish, and +fowl; it hath also for bread sufficient maize, cassavi, and of those +roots and fruits which are common everywhere in the West Indies. It +hath divers beasts which the Indies have not; the Spaniards confessed +that they found grains of gold in some of the rivers; but they having +a purpose to enter Guiana, the magazine of all rich metals, cared not +to spend time in the search thereof any further. This island is called +by the people thereof Cairi, and in it are divers nations. Those about +Parico are called Jajo, those at Punta de Carao are of the Arwacas +(Arawaks) and between Carao and Curiapan they are called Salvajos. +Between Carao and Punta de Galera are the Nepojos, and those about the +Spanish city term themselves Carinepagotes (Carib-people). Of the rest +of the nations, and of other ports and rivers, I leave to speak here, +being impertinent to my purpose, and mean to describe them as they are +situate in the particular plot and description of the island, three +parts whereof I coasted with my barge, that I might the better +describe it. + +Meeting with the ships at Puerto de los Espanoles, we found at the +landing-place a company of Spaniards who kept a guard at the descent; +and they offering a sign of peace, I sent Captain Whiddon to speak +with them, whom afterwards to my great grief I left buried in the said +island after my return from Guiana, being a man most honest and +valiant. The Spaniards seemed to be desirous to trade with us, and to +enter into terms of peace, more for doubt of their own strength than +for aught else; and in the end, upon pledge, some of them came aboard. +The same evening there stale also aboard us in a small canoa two +Indians, the one of them being a cacique or lord of the people, called +Cantyman, who had the year before been with Captain Whiddon, and was +of his acquaintance. By this Cantyman we understood what strength the +Spaniards had, how far it was to their city, and of Don Antonio de +Berreo, the governor, who was said to be slain in his second attempt +of Guiana, but was not. + +While we remained at Puerto de los Espanoles some Spaniards came +aboard us to buy linen of the company, and such other things as they +wanted, and also to view our ships and company, all which I +entertained kindly and feasted after our manner. By means whereof I +learned of one and another as much of the estate of Guiana as I could, +or as they knew; for those poor soldiers having been many years +without wine, a few draughts made them merry, in which mood they +vaunted of Guiana and the riches thereof, and all what they knew of +the ways and passages; myself seeming to purpose nothing less than the +entrance or discovery thereof, but bred in them an opinion that I was +bound only for the relief of those English which I had planted in +Virginia, whereof the bruit was come among them; which I had performed +in my return, if extremity of weather had not forced me from the said +coast. + +I found occasions of staying in this place for two causes. The one was +to be revenged of Berreo, who the year before, 1594, had betrayed +eight of Captain Whiddon's men, and took them while he departed from +them to seek the Edward Bonaventure, which arrived at Trinidad the day +before from the East Indies: in whose absence Berreo sent a canoa +aboard the pinnace only with Indians and dogs inviting the company to +go with them into the woods to kill a deer. Who like wise men, in the +absence of their captain followed the Indians, but were no sooner one +arquebus shot from the shore, but Berreo's soldiers lying in ambush +had them all, notwithstanding that he had given his word to Captain +Whiddon that they should take water and wood safely. The other cause +of my stay was, for that by discourse with the Spaniards I daily +learned more and more of Guiana, of the rivers and passages, and of +the enterprise of Berreo, by what means or fault he failed, and how he +meant to prosecute the same. + +While we thus spent the time I was assured by another cacique of the +north side of the island, that Berreo had sent to Margarita and Cumana +for soldiers, meaning to have given me a cassado (blow) at parting, if +it had been possible. For although he had given order through all the +island that no Indian should come aboard to trade with me upon pain of +hanging and quartering (having executed two of them for the same, +which I afterwards found), yet every night there came some with most +lamentable complaints of his cruelty: how he had divided the island +and given to every soldier a part; that he made the ancient caciques, +which were lords of the country, to be their slaves; that he kept them +in chains, and dropped their naked bodies with burning bacon, and such +other torments, which I found afterwards to be true. For in the city, +after I entered the same, there were five of the lords or little +kings, which they call caciques in the West Indies, in one chain, +almost dead of famine, and wasted with torments. These are called in +their own language acarewana, and now of late since English, French, +and Spanish, are come among them, they call themselves captains, +because they perceive that the chiefest of every ship is called by +that name. Those five captains in the chain were called Wannawanare, +Carroaori, Maquarima, Tarroopanama, and Aterima. So as both to be +revenged of the former wrong, as also considering that to enter Guiana +by small boats, to depart 400 or 500 miles from my ships, and to leave +a garrison in my back interested in the same enterprise, who also +daily expected supplies out of Spain, I should have savoured very much +of the ass; and therefore taking a time of most advantage, I set upon +the Corps du garde in the evening, and having put them to the sword, +sent Captain Caulfield onwards with sixty soldiers, and myself +followed with forty more, and so took their new city, which they +called St. Joseph, by break of day. They abode not any fight after a +few shot, and all being dismissed, but only Berreo and his companion +(the Portuguese captain Alvaro Jorge), I brought them with me aboard, +and at the instance of the Indians I set their new city of St. Joseph +on fire. The same day arrived Captain George Gifford with your +lordship's ship, and Captain Keymis, whom I lost on the coast of +Spain, with the galego, and in them divers gentlemen and others, which +to our little army was a great comfort and supply. + +We then hasted away towards our purposed discovery, and first I called +all the captains of the island together that were enemies to the +Spaniards; for there were some which Berreo had brought out of other +countries, and planted there to eat out and waste those that were +natural of the place. And by my Indian interpreter, which I carried +out of England, I made them understand that I was the servant of a +queen who was the great cacique of the north, and a virgin, and had +more caciqui under her than there were trees in that island; that she +was an enemy to the Castellani in respect of their tyranny and +oppression, and that she delivered all such nations about her, as were +by them oppressed; and having freed all the coast of the northern +world from their servitude, had sent me to free them also, and withal +to defend the country of Guiana from their invasion and conquest. I +shewed them her Majesty's picture, which they so admired and honoured, +as it had been easy to have brought them idolatrous thereof. The like +and a more large discourse I made to the rest of the nations, both in +my passing to Guiana and to those of the borders, so as in that part +of the world her Majesty is very famous and admirable; whom they now +call EZRABETA CASSIPUNA AQUEREWANA, which is as much as 'Elizabeth, +the Great Princess, or Greatest Commander.' This done, we left Puerto +de los Espanoles, and returned to Curiapan, and having Berreo my +prisoner, I gathered from him as much of Guiana as he knew. This +Berreo is a gentleman well descended, and had long served the Spanish +king in Milan, Naples, the Low Countries, and elsewhere, very valiant +and liberal, and a gentleman of great assuredness, and of a great +heart. I used him according to his estate and worth in all things I +could, according to the small means I had. + +I sent Captain Whiddon the year before to get what knowledge he could +of Guiana: and the end of my journey at this time was to discover and +enter the same. But my intelligence was far from truth, for the +country is situate about 600 English miles further from the sea than I +was made believe it had been. Which afterwards understanding to be +true by Berreo, I kept it from the knowledge of my company, who else +would never have been brought to attempt the same. Of which 600 miles +I passed 400, leaving my ships so far from me at anchor in the sea, +which was more of desire to perform that discovery than of reason, +especially having such poor and weak vessels to transport ourselves +in. For in the bottom of an old galego which I caused to be fashioned +like a galley, and in one barge, two wherries, and a ship-boat of the +Lion's Whelp, we carried 100 persons and their victuals for a month in +the same, being all driven to lie in the rain and weather in the open +air, in the burning sun, and upon the hard boards, and to dress our +meat, and to carry all manner of furniture in them. Wherewith they +were so pestered and unsavoury, that what with victuals being most +fish, with the wet clothes of so many men thrust together, and the +heat of the sun, I will undertake there was never any prison in +England that could be found more unsavoury and loathsome, especially +to myself, who had for many years before been dieted and cared for in +a sort far more differing. + +If Captain Preston had not been persuaded that he should have come too +late to Trinidad to have found us there (for the month was expired +which I promised to tarry for him there ere he could recover the coast +of Spain) but that it had pleased God he might have joined with us, +and that we had entered the country but some ten days sooner ere the +rivers were overflown, we had adventured either to have gone to the +great city of Manoa, or at least taken so many of the other cities and +towns nearer at hand, as would have made a royal return. But it +pleased not God so much to favour me at this time. If it shall be my +lot to prosecute the same, I shall willingly spend my life therein. +And if any else shall be enabled thereunto, and conquer the same, I +assure him thus much; he shall perform more than ever was done in +Mexico by Cortes, or in Peru by Pizarro, whereof the one conquered the +empire of Mutezuma, the other of Guascar and Atabalipa. And whatsoever +prince shall possess it, that prince shall be lord of more gold, and +of a more beautiful empire, and of more cities and people, than either +the king of Spain or the Great Turk. + +But because there may arise many doubts, and how this empire of Guiana +is become so populous, and adorned with so many great cities, towns, +temples, and treasures, I thought good to make it known, that the +emperor now reigning is descended from those magnificent princes of +Peru, of whose large territories, of whose policies, conquests, +edifices, and riches, Pedro de Cieza, Francisco Lopez, and others have +written large discourses. For when Francisco Pizarro, Diego Almagro +and others conquered the said empire of Peru, and had put to death +Atabalipa, son to Guayna Capac, which Atabalipa had formerly caused +his eldest brother Guascar to be slain, one of the younger sons of +Guayna Capac fled out of Peru, and took with him many thousands of +those soldiers of the empire called orejones ("having large ears," the +name given by the Spaniards to the Peruvian warriors, who wore ear- +pendants), and with those and many others which followed him, he +vanquished all that tract and valley of America which is situate +between the great river of Amazons and Baraquan, otherwise called +Orenoque and Maranon (Baraquan is the alternative name to Orenoque, +Maranon to Amazons). + +The empire of Guiana is directly east from Peru towards the sea, and +lieth under the equinoctial line; and it hath more abundance of gold +than any part of Peru, and as many or more great cities than ever Peru +had when it flourished most. It is governed by the same laws, and the +emperor and people observe the same religion, and the same form and +policies in government as were used in Peru, not differing in any +part. And I have been assured by such of the Spaniards as have seen +Manoa, the imperial city of Guiana, which the Spaniards call El +Dorado, that for the greatness, for the riches, and for the excellent +seat, it far exceedeth any of the world, at least of so much of the +world as is known to the Spanish nation. It is founded upon a lake of +salt water of 200 leagues long, like unto Mare Caspium. And if we +compare it to that of Peru, and but read the report of Francisco Lopez +and others, it will seem more than credible; and because we may judge +of the one by the other, I thought good to insert part of the 120. +chapter of Lopez in his General History of the Indies, wherein he +describeth the court and magnificence of Guayna Capac, ancestor to the +emperor of Guiana, whose very words are these:-- + +"Todo el servicio de su casa, mesa, y cocina era de oro y de plata, y +cuando menos de plata y cobre, por mas recio. Tenia en su recamara +estatuas huecas de oro, que parescian gigantes, y las figuras al +propio y tamano de cuantos animales, aves, arboles, y yerbas produce +la tierra, y de cuantos peces cria la mar y agua de sus reynos. Tenia +asimesmo sogas, costales, cestas, y troxes de oro y plata; rimeros de +palos de oro, que pareciesen lena rajada para quemar. En fin no habia +cosa en su tierra, que no la tuviese de oro contrahecha; y aun dizen, +que tenian los Ingas un verjel en una isla cerca de la Puna, donde se +iban a holgar, cuando querian mar, que tenia la hortaliza, las flores, +y arboles de oro y plata; invencion y grandeza hasta entonces nunca +vista. Allende de todo esto, tenia infinitisima cantidad de plata y +oro por labrar en el Cuzco, que se perdio por la muerte de Guascar; ca +los Indios lo escondieron, viendo que los Espanoles se lo tomaban, y +enviaban a Espana." + +That is, "All the vessels of his house, table, and kitchen, were of +gold and silver, and the meanest of silver and copper for strength and +hardness of metal. He had in his wardrobe hollow statues of gold which +seemed giants, and the figures in proportion and bigness of all the +beasts, birds, trees, and herbs, that the earth bringeth forth; and of +all the fishes that the sea or waters of his kingdom breedeth. He had +also ropes, budgets, chests, and troughs of gold and silver, heaps of +billets of gold, that seemed wood marked out (split into logs) to +burn. Finally, there was nothing in his country whereof he had not the +counterfeit in gold. Yea, and they say, the Ingas had a garden of +pleasure in an island near Puna, where they went to recreate +themselves, when they would take the air of the sea, which had all +kinds of garden-herbs, flowers, and trees of gold and silver; an +invention and magnificence till then never seen. Besides all this, he +had an infinite quantity of silver and gold unwrought in Cuzco, which +was lost by the death of Guascar, for the Indians hid it, seeing that +the Spaniards took it, and sent it into Spain." + +And in the 117. chapter; Francisco Pizarro caused the gold and silver +of Atabalipa to be weighed after he had taken it, which Lopez setteth +down in these words following:--"Hallaron cincuenta y dos mil marcos +de buena plata, y un millon y trecientos y veinte y seis mil y +quinientos pesos de oro." Which is, "They found 52,000 marks of good +silver, and 1,326,500 pesos of gold." Now, although these reports may +seem strange, yet if we consider the many millions which are daily +brought out of Peru into Spain, we may easily believe the same. For we +find that by the abundant treasure of that country the Spanish king +vexes all the princes of Europe, and is become, in a few years, from a +poor king of Castile, the greatest monarch of this part of the world, +and likely every day to increase if other princes forslow the good +occasions offered, and suffer him to add this empire to the rest, +which by far exceedeth all the rest. If his gold now endanger us, he +will then be unresistible. Such of the Spaniards as afterwards +endeavoured the conquest thereof, whereof there have been many, as +shall be declared hereafter, thought that this Inga, of whom this +emperor now living is descended, took his way by the river of Amazons, +by that branch which is called Papamene (The Papamene is a tributary +not of the Amazon river but of the Meta, one of the principal +tributaries of the Orinoco). For by that way followed Orellana, by the +commandment of Gonzalo Pizarro, in the year 1542, whose name the river +also beareth this day. Which is also by others called Maranon, +although Andrew Thevet doth affirm that between Maranon and Amazons +there are 120 leagues; but sure it is that those rivers have one head +and beginning, and the Maranon, which Thevet describeth, is but a +branch of Amazons or Orellana, of which I will speak more in another +place. It was attempted by Ordas; but it is now little less than 70 +years since that Diego Ordas, a Knight of the Order of Santiago, +attempted the same; and it was in the year 1542 that Orellana +discovered the river of Amazons; but the first that ever saw Manoa was +Juan Martinez, master of the munition to Ordas. At a port called +Morequito (probably San Miguel), in Guiana, there lieth at this day a +great anchor of Ordas his ship. And this port is some 300 miles within +the land, upon the great river of Orenoque. I rested at this port four +days, twenty days after I left the ships at Curiapan. + +The relation of this Martinez, who was the first that discovered +Manoa, his success, and end, is to be seen in the Chancery of St. Juan +de Puerto Rico, whereof Berreo had a copy, which appeared to be the +greatest encouragement as well to Berreo as to others that formerly +attempted the discovery and conquest. Orellana, after he failed of the +discovery of Guiana by the said river of Amazons, passed into Spain, +and there obtained a patent of the king for the invasion and conquest, +but died by sea about the islands; and his fleet being severed by +tempest, the action for that time proceeded not. Diego Ordas followed +the enterprise, and departed Spain with 600 soldiers and thirty horse. +Who, arriving on the coast of Guiana, was slain in a mutiny, with the +most part of such as favoured him, as also of the rebellious part, +insomuch as his ships perished and few or none returned; neither was +it certainly known what became of the said Ordas until Berreo found +the anchor of his ship in the river of Orenoque; but it was supposed, +and so it is written by Lopez, that he perished on the seas, and of +other writers diversely conceived and reported. And hereof it came +that Martinez entered so far within the land, and arrived at that city +of Inga the emperor; for it chanced that while Ordas with his army +rested at the port of Morequito (who was either the first or second +that attempted Guiana), by some negligence the whole store of powder +provided for the service was set on fire, and Martinez, having the +chief charge, was condemned by the General Ordas to be executed +forthwith. Martinez, being much favoured by the soldiers, had all the +means possible procured for his life; but it could not be obtained in +other sort than this, that he should be set into a canoa alone, +without any victual, only with his arms, and so turned loose into the +great river. But it pleased God that the canoa was carried down the +stream, and certain of the Guianians met it the same evening; and, +having not at any time seen any Christian nor any man of that colour, +they carried Martinez into the land to be wondered at, and so from +town to town, until he came to the great city of Manoa, the seat and +residence of Inga the emperor. The emperor, after he had beheld him, +knew him to be a Christian, for it was not long before that his +brethren Guascar and Atabalipa were vanquished by the Spaniards in +Peru: and caused him to be lodged in his palace, and well entertained. +He lived seven months in Manoa, but was not suffered to wander into +the country anywhere. He was also brought thither all the way +blindfold, led by the Indians, until he came to the entrance of Manoa +itself, and was fourteen or fifteen days in the passage. He avowed at +his death that he entered the city at noon, and then they uncovered +his face; and that he travelled all that day till night through the +city, and the next day from sun rising to sun setting, ere he came to +the palace of Inga. After that Martinez had lived seven months in +Manoa, and began to understand the language of the country, Inga asked +him whether he desired to return into his own country, or would +willingly abide with him. But Martinez, not desirous to stay, obtained +the favour of Inga to depart; with whom he sent divers Guianians to +conduct him to the river of Orenoque, all loaden with as much gold as +they could carry, which he gave to Martinez at his departure. But when +he was arrived near the river's side, the borderers which are called +Orenoqueponi (poni is a Carib postposition meaning "on") robbed him +and his Guianians of all the treasure (the borderers being at that +time at wars, which Inga had not conquered) save only of two great +bottles of gourds, which were filled with beads of gold curiously +wrought, which those Orenoqueponi thought had been no other thing than +his drink or meat, or grain for food, with which Martinez had liberty +to pass. And so in canoas he fell down from the river of Orenoque to +Trinidad, and from thence to Margarita, and so to St. Juan del Puerto +Rico; where, remaining a long time for passage into Spain, he died. In +the time of his extreme sickness, and when he was without hope of +life, receiving the sacrament at the hands of his confessor, he +delivered these things, with the relation of his travels, and also +called for his calabazas or gourds of the gold beads, which he gave to +the church and friars, to be prayed for. + +This Martinez was he that christened the city of Manoa by the name of +El Dorado, and, as Berreo informed me, upon this occasion, those +Guianians, and also the borderers, and all other in that tract which I +have seen, are marvellous great drunkards; in which vice I think no +nation can compare with them; and at the times of their solemn feasts, +when the emperor carouseth with his captains, tributaries, and +governors, the manner is thus. All those that pledge him are first +stripped naked and their bodies anointed all over with a kind of white +balsamum (by them called curca), of which there is great plenty, and +yet very dear amongst them, and it is of all other the most precious, +whereof we have had good experience. When they are anointed all over, +certain servants of the emperor, having prepared gold made into fine +powder, blow it through hollow canes upon their naked bodies, until +they be all shining from the foot to the head; and in this sort they +sit drinking by twenties and hundreds, and continue in drunkenness +sometimes six or seven days together. The same is also confirmed by a +letter written into Spain which was intercepted, which Master Robert +Dudley told me he had seen. Upon this sight, and for the abundance of +gold which he saw in the city, the images of gold in their temples, +the plates, armours, and shields of gold which they use in the wars, +he called it El Dorado. + +After the death of Ordas and Martinez, and after Orellana, who was +employed by Gonzalo Pizarro, one Pedro de Orsua, a knight of Navarre, +attempted Guiana, taking his way into Peru, and built his brigandines +upon a river called Oia, which riseth to the southward of Quito, and +is very great. This river falleth into Amazons, by which Orsua with +his companies descended, and came out of that province which is called +Motilones ("friars"--Indians so named from their cropped heads); and +it seemeth to me that this empire is reserved for her Majesty and the +English nation, by reason of the hard success which all these and +other Spaniards found in attempting the same, whereof I will speak +briefly, though impertinent in some sort to my purpose. This Pedro de +Orsua had among his troops a Biscayan called Aguirre, a man meanly +born, who bare no other office than a sergeant or alferez (al-faris, +Arab.--horseman, mounted officer): but after certain months, when the +soldiers were grieved with travels and consumed with famine, and that +no entrance could be found by the branches or body of Amazons, this +Aguirre raised a mutiny, of which he made himself the head, and so +prevailed as he put Orsua to the sword and all his followers, taking +on him the whole charge and commandment, with a purpose not only to +make himself emperor of Guiana, but also of Peru and of all that side +of the West Indies. He had of his party 700 soldiers, and of those +many promised to draw in other captains and companies, to deliver up +towns and forts in Peru; but neither finding by the said river any +passage into Guiana, nor any possibility to return towards Peru by the +same Amazons, by reason that the descent of the river made so great a +current, he was enforced to disemboque at the mouth of the said +Amazons, which cannot be less than 1,000 leagues from the place where +they embarked. From thence he coasted the land till he arrived at +Margarita to the north of Mompatar, which is at this day called Puerto +de Tyranno, for that he there slew Don Juan de Villa Andreda, Governor +of Margarita, who was father to Don Juan Sarmiento, Governor of +Margarita when Sir John Burgh landed there and attempted the island. +Aguirre put to the sword all other in the island that refused to be of +his party, and took with him certain cimarrones (fugitive slaves) and +other desperate companions. From thence he went to Cumana and there +slew the governor, and dealt in all as at Margarita. He spoiled all +the coast of Caracas and the province of Venezuela and of Rio de la +Hacha; and, as I remember, it was the same year that Sir John Hawkins +sailed to St. Juan de Ullua in the Jesus of Lubeck; for himself told +me that he met with such a one upon the coast, that rebelled, and had +sailed down all the river of Amazons. Aguirre from thence landed about +Santa Marta and sacked it also, putting to death so many as refused to +be his followers, purposing to invade Nuevo Reyno de Granada and to +sack Pamplona, Merida, Lagrita, Tunja, and the rest of the cities of +Nuevo Reyno, and from thence again to enter Peru; but in a fight in +the said Nuevo Reyno he was overthrown, and, finding no way to escape, +he first put to the sword his own children, foretelling them that they +should not live to be defamed or upbraided by the Spaniards after his +death, who would have termed them the children of a traitor or tyrant; +and that, sithence he could not make them princes, he would yet +deliver them from shame and reproach. These were the ends and +tragedies of Ordas, Martinez, Orellana, Orsua, and Aguirre. Also soon +after Ordas followed Jeronimo Ortal de Saragosa, with 130 soldiers; +who failing his entrance by sea, was cast with the current on the +coast of Paria, and peopled about S. Miguel de Neveri. It was then +attempted by Don Pedro de Silva, a Portuguese of the family of Ruy +Gomez de Silva, and by the favour which Ruy Gomez had with the king he +was set out. But he also shot wide of the mark; for being departed +from Spain with his fleet, he entered by Maranon or Amazons, where by +the nations of the river and by the Amazons, he was utterly +overthrown, and himself and all his army defeated; only seven escaped, +and of those but two returned. + +After him came Pedro Hernandez de Serpa, and landed at Cumana, in the +West Indies, taking his journey by land towards Orenoque, which may be +some 120 leagues; but ere he came to the borders of the said river, he +was set upon by a nation of the Indians, called Wikiri, and overthrown +in such sort, that of 300 soldiers, horsemen, many Indians, and +negroes, there returned but eighteen. Others affirm that he was +defeated in the very entrance of Guiana, at the first civil town of +the empire called Macureguarai. Captain Preston, in taking Santiago de +Leon (which was by him and his companies very resolutely performed, +being a great town, and far within the land) held a gentleman +prisoner, who died in his ship, that was one of the company of +Hernandez de Serpa, and saved among those that escaped; who witnessed +what opinion is held among the Spaniards thereabouts of the great +riches of Guiana, and El Dorado, the city of Inga. Another Spaniard +was brought aboard me by Captain Preston, who told me in the hearing +of himself and divers other gentlemen, that he met with Berreo's +campmaster at Caracas, when he came from the borders of Guiana, and +that he saw with him forty of most pure plates of gold, curiously +wrought, and swords of Guiana decked and inlaid with gold, feathers +garnished with gold, and divers rarities, which he carried to the +Spanish king. + +After Hernandez de Serpa, it was undertaken by the Adelantado, Don +Gonzalez Ximenes de Quesada, who was one of the chiefest in the +conquest of Nuevo Reyno, whose daughter and heir Don Antonio de Berreo +married. Gonzalez sought the passage also by the river called +Papamene, which riseth by Quito, in Peru, and runneth south-east 100 +leagues, and then falleth into Amazons. But he also, failing the +entrance, returned with the loss of much labour and cost. I took one +Captain George, a Spaniard, that followed Gonzalez in this enterprise. +Gonzalez gave his daughter to Berreo, taking his oath and honour to +follow the enterprise to the last of his substance and life. Who +since, as he hath sworn to me, hath spent 300,000 ducats in the same, +and yet never could enter so far into the land as myself with that +poor troop, or rather a handful of men, being in all about 100 +gentlemen, soldiers, rowers, boat-keepers, boys, and of all sorts; +neither could any of the forepassed undertakers, nor Berreo himself, +discover the country, till now lately by conference with an ancient +king, called Carapana (Caribana, Carib land, was an old European name +for the Atlantic coast near the mouth of the Orinoco, and hence was +applied to one of its chiefs. Berrio called this district "Emeria"), +he got the true light thereof. For Berreo came about 1,500 miles ere +he understood aught, or could find any passage or entrance into any +part thereof; yet he had experience of all these fore-named, and +divers others, and was persuaded of their errors and mistakings. +Berreo sought it by the river Cassanar, which falleth into a great +river called Pato: Pato falleth into Meta, and Meta into Baraquan, +which is also called Orenoque. He took his journey from Nuevo Reyno de +Granada, where he dwelt, having the inheritance of Gonzalez Ximenes in +those parts; he was followed with 700 horse, he drove with him 1,000 +head of cattle, he had also many women, Indians, and slaves. How all +these rivers cross and encounter, how the country lieth and is +bordered, the passage of Ximenes and Berreo, mine own discovery, and +the way that I entered, with all the rest of the nations and rivers, +your lordship shall receive in a large chart or map, which I have not +yet finished, and which I shall most humbly pray your lordship to +secrete, and not to suffer it to pass your own hands; for by a draught +thereof all may be prevented by other nations; for I know it is this +very year sought by the French, although by the way that they now +take, I fear it not much. It was also told me ere I departed England, +that Villiers, the Admiral, was in preparation for the planting of +Amazons, to which river the French have made divers voyages, and +returned much gold and other rarities. I spake with a captain of a +French ship that came from thence, his ship riding in Falmouth the +same year that my ships came first from Virginia; there was another +this year in Helford, that also came from thence, and had been +fourteen months at an anchor in Amazons; which were both very rich. + +Although, as I am persuaded, Guiana cannot be entered that way, yet no +doubt the trade of gold from thence passeth by branches of rivers into +the river of Amazons, and so it doth on every hand far from the +country itself; for those Indians of Trinidad have plates of gold from +Guiana, and those cannibals of Dominica which dwell in the islands by +which our ships pass yearly to the West Indies, also the Indians of +Paria, those Indians called Tucaris, Chochi, Apotomios, Cumanagotos, +and all those other nations inhabiting near about the mountains that +run from Paria through the province of Venezuela, and in Maracapana, +and the cannibals of Guanipa, the Indians called Assawai, Coaca, Ajai, +and the rest (all which shall be described in my description as they +are situate) have plates of gold of Guiana. And upon the river of +Amazons, Thevet writeth that the people wear croissants of gold, for +of that form the Guianians most commonly make them; so as from +Dominica to Amazons, which is above 250 leagues, all the chief Indians +in all parts wear of those plates of Guiana. Undoubtedly those that +trade Amazons return much gold, which (as is aforesaid) cometh by +trade from Guiana, by some branch of a river that falleth from the +country into Amazons, and either it is by the river which passeth by +the nations called Tisnados, or by Caripuna. + +I made enquiry amongst the most ancient and best travelled of the +Orenoqueponi, and I had knowledge of all the rivers between Orenoque +and Amazons, and was very desirous to understand the truth of those +warlike women, because of some it is believed, of others not. And +though I digress from my purpose, yet I will set down that which hath +been delivered me for truth of those women, and I spake with a +cacique, or lord of people, that told me he had been in the river, and +beyond it also. The nations of these women are on the south side of +the river in the provinces of Topago, and their chiefest strengths and +retracts are in the islands situate on the south side of the entrance, +some 60 leagues within the mouth of the said river. The memories of +the like women are very ancient as well in Africa as in Asia. In +Africa those that had Medusa for queen; others in Scythia, near the +rivers of Tanais and Thermodon. We find, also, that Lampedo and +Marthesia were queens of the Amazons. In many histories they are +verified to have been, and in divers ages and provinces; but they +which are not far from Guiana do accompany with men but once in a +year, and for the time of one month, which I gather by their relation, +to be in April; and that time all kings of the borders assemble, and +queens of the Amazons; and after the queens have chosen, the rest cast +lots for their valentines. This one month they feast, dance, and drink +of their wines in abundance; and the moon being done they all depart +to their own provinces. They are said to be very cruel and +bloodthirsty, especially to such as offer to invade their territories. +These Amazons have likewise great store of these plates of gold, which +they recover by exchange chiefly for a kind of green stones, which the +Spaniards call piedras hijadas, and we use for spleen-stones (stones +reduced to powder and taken internally to cure maladies of the +spleen); and for the disease of the stone we also esteem them. Of +these I saw divers in Guiana; and commonly every king or cacique hath +one, which their wives for the most part wear, and they esteem them as +great jewels. + +But to return to the enterprise of Berreo, who, as I have said, +departed from Nuevo Reyno with 700 horse, besides the provisions above +rehearsed. He descended by the river called Cassanar, which riseth in +Nuevo Reyno out of the mountains by the city of Tunja, from which +mountain also springeth Pato; both which fall into the great river of +Meta, and Meta riseth from a mountain joining to Pamplona, in the same +Nuevo Reyno de Granada. These, as also Guaiare, which issueth out of +the mountains by Timana, fall all into Baraquan, and are but of his +heads; for at their coming together they lose their names, and +Baraquan farther down is also rebaptized by the name of Orenoque. On +the other side of the city and hills of Timana riseth Rio Grande, +which falleth into the sea by Santa Marta. By Cassanar first, and so +into Meta, Berreo passed, keeping his horsemen on the banks, where the +country served them for to march; and where otherwise, he was driven +to embark them in boats which he builded for the purpose, and so came +with the current down the river of Meta, and so into Baraquan. After +he entered that great and mighty river, he began daily to lose of his +companies both men and horse; for it is in many places violently +swift, and hath forcible eddies, many sands, and divers islands sharp +pointed with rocks. But after one whole year, journeying for the most +part by river, and the rest by land, he grew daily to fewer numbers; +from both by sickness, and by encountering with the people of those +regions through which he travelled, his companies were much wasted, +especially by divers encounters with the Amapaians (Amapaia was +Berrio's name for the Orinoco valley above the Caura river). And in +all this time he never could learn of any passage into Guiana, nor any +news or fame thereof, until he came to a further border of the said +Amapaia, eight days' journey from the river Caroli (the Caroni river, +the first great affluent of the Orinoco on the south, about 180 miles +from the sea), which was the furthest river that he entered. Among +those of Amapaia, Guiana was famous; but few of these people accosted +Berreo, or would trade with him the first three months of the six +which he sojourned there. This Amapaia is also marvellous rich in +gold, as both Berreo confessed and those of Guiana with whom I had +most conference; and is situate upon Orenoque also. In this country +Berreo lost sixty of his best soldiers, and most of all his horse that +remained in his former year's travel. But in the end, after divers +encounters with those nations, they grew to peace, and they presented +Berreo with ten images of fine gold among divers other plates and +croissants, which, as he sware to me, and divers other gentlemen, were +so curiously wrought, as he had not seen the like either in Italy, +Spain, or the Low Countries; and he was resolved that when they came +to the hands of the Spanish king, to whom he had sent them by his +camp-master, they would appear very admirable, especially being +wrought by such a nation as had no iron instruments at all, nor any of +those helps which our goldsmiths have to work withal. The particular +name of the people in Amapaia which gave him these pieces, are called +Anebas, and the river of Orenoque at that place is about twelve +English miles broad, which may be from his outfall into the sea 700 or +800 miles. + +This province of Amapaia is a very low and a marish ground near the +river; and by reason of the red water which issueth out in small +branches through the fenny and boggy ground, there breed divers +poisonful worms and serpents. And the Spaniards not suspecting, nor in +any sort foreknowing the danger, were infected with a grievous kind of +flux by drinking thereof, and even the very horses poisoned therewith; +insomuch as at the end of the six months that they abode there, of all +their troops there were not left above 120 soldiers, and neither horse +nor cattle. For Berreo hoped to have found Guiana be 1,000 miles +nearer than it fell out to be in the end; by means whereof they +sustained much want, and much hunger, oppressed with grievous +diseases, and all the miseries that could be imagined. I demanded of +those in Guiana that had travelled Amapaia, how they lived with that +tawny or red water when they travelled thither; and they told me that +after the sun was near the middle of the sky, they used to fill their +pots and pitchers with that water, but either before that time or +towards the setting of the sun it was dangerous to drink of, and in +the night strong poison. I learned also of divers other rivers of that +nature among them, which were also, while the sun was in the meridian, +very safe to drink, and in the morning, evening, and night, wonderful +dangerous and infective. From this province Berreo hasted away as soon +as the spring and beginning of summer appeared, and sought his +entrance on the borders of Orenoque on the south side; but there ran a +ledge of so high and impassable mountains, as he was not able by any +means to march over them, continuing from the east sea into which +Orenoque falleth, even to Quito in Peru. Neither had he means to carry +victual or munition over those craggy, high, and fast hills, being all +woody, and those so thick and spiny, and so full or prickles, thorns, +and briars, as it is impossible to creep through them. He had also +neither friendship among the people, nor any interpreter to persuade +or treat with them; and more, to his disadvantage, the caciques and +kings of Amapaia had given knowledge of his purpose to the Guianians, +and that he sought to sack and conquer the empire, for the hope of +their so great abundance and quantities of gold. He passed by the +mouths of many great rivers which fell into Orenoque both from the +north and south, which I forbear to name, for tediousness, and because +they are more pleasing in describing than reading. + +Berreo affirmed that there fell an hundred rivers into Orenoque from +the north and south: whereof the least was as big as Rio Grande (the +Magdalena), that passed between Popayan and Nuevo Reyno de Granada, +Rio Grande being esteemed one of the renowned rivers in all the West +Indies, and numbered among the great rivers of the world. But he knew +not the names of any of these, but Caroli only; neither from what +nations they descended, neither to what provinces they led, for he had +no means to discourse with the inhabitants at any time; neither was he +curious in these things, being utterly unlearned, and not knowing the +east from the west. But of all these I got some knowledge, and of many +more, partly by mine own travel, and the rest by conference; of some +one I learned one, of others the rest, having with me an Indian that +spake many languages, and that of Guiana (the Carib) naturally. I +sought out all the aged men, and such as were greatest travellers. And +by the one and the other I came to understand the situations, the +rivers, the kingdoms from the east sea to the borders of Peru, and +from Orenoque southward as far as Amazons or Maranon, and the regions +of Marinatambal (north coasts of Brazil), and of all the kings of +provinces, and captains of towns and villages, how they stood in terms +of peace or war, and which were friends or enemies the one with the +other; without which there can be neither entrance nor conquest in +those parts, nor elsewhere. For by the dissension between Guascar and +Atabalipa, Pizarro conquered Peru, and by the hatred that the +Tlaxcallians bare to Mutezuma, Cortes was victorious over Mexico; +without which both the one and the other had failed of their +enterprise, and of the great honour and riches which they attained +unto. + +Now Berreo began to grow into despair, and looked for no other success +than his predecessor in this enterprise; until such time as he arrived +at the province of Emeria towards the east sea and mouth of the river, +where he found a nation of people very favourable, and the country +full of all manner of victual. The king of this land is called +Carapana, a man very wise, subtle, and of great experience, being +little less than an hundred years old. In his youth he was sent by his +father into the island of Trinidad, by reason of civil war among +themselves, and was bred at a village in that island, called Parico. +At that place in his youth he had seen many Christians, both French +and Spanish, and went divers times with the Indians of Trinidad to +Margarita and Cumana, in the West Indies, for both those places have +ever been relieved with victual from Trinidad: by reason whereof he +grew of more understanding, and noted the difference of the nations, +comparing the strength and arms of his country with those of the +Christians, and ever after temporised so as whosoever else did amiss, +or was wasted by contention, Carapana kept himself and his country in +quiet and plenty. He also held peace with the Caribs or cannibals, his +neighbours, and had free trade with all nations, whosoever else had +war. + +Berreo sojourned and rested his weak troop in the town of Carapana six +weeks, and from him learned the way and passage to Guiana, and the +riches and magnificence thereof. But being then utterly unable to +proceed, he determined to try his fortune another year, when he had +renewed his provisions, and regathered more force, which he hoped for +as well out of Spain as from Nuevo Reyno, where he had left his son +Don Antonio Ximenes to second him upon the first notice given of his +entrance; and so for the present embarked himself in canoas, and by +the branches of Orenoque arrived at Trinidad, having from Carapana +sufficient pilots to conduct him. From Trinidad he coasted Paria, and +so recovered Margarita; and having made relation to Don Juan +Sarmiento, the Governor, of his proceeding, and persuaded him of the +riches of Guiana, he obtained from thence fifty soldiers, promising +presently to return to Carapana, and so into Guiana. But Berreo meant +nothing less at that time; for he wanted many provisions necessary for +such an enterprise, and therefore departed from Margarita, seated +himself in Trinidad, and from thence sent his camp-master and his +sergeant-major back to the borders to discover the nearest passage +into the empire, as also to treat with the borderers, and to draw them +to his party and love; without which, he knew he could neither pass +safely, nor in any sort be relieved with victual or aught else. +Carapana directed his company to a king called Morequito, assuring +them that no man could deliver so much Guiana as Morequito could, and +that his dwelling was but five days' journey from Macureguarai, the +first civil town of Guiana. + +Now your lordship shall understand that this Morequito, one of the +greatest lords or kings of the borders of Guiana, had two or three +years before been at Cumana and at Margarita, in the West Indies, with +great store of plates of gold, which he carried to exchange for such +other things as he wanted in his own country, and was daily feasted, +and presented by the governors of those places, and held amongst them +some two months. In which time one Vides, Governor of Cumana, won him +to be his conductor into Guiana, being allured by those croissants and +images of gold which he brought with him to trade, as also by the +ancient fame and magnificence of El Dorado; whereupon Vides sent into +Spain for a patent to discover and conquer Guiana, not knowing of the +precedence of Berreo's patent; which, as Berreo affirmeth, was signed +before that of Vidas. So as when Vides understood of Berreo and that +he had made entrance into that territory, and foregone his desire and +hope, it was verily thought that Vides practised with Morequito to +hinder and disturb Berreo in all he could, and not to suffer him to +enter through his seignory, nor any of his companies; neither to +victual, nor guide them in any sort. For Vides, Governor of Cumana, +and Berreo, were become mortal enemies, as well for that Berreo had +gotten Trinidad into his patent with Guiana, as also in that he was by +Berreo prevented in the journey of Guiana itself. Howsoever it was, I +know not, but Morequito for a time dissembled his disposition, +suffered ten Spaniards and a friar, which Berreo had sent to discover +Manoa, to travel through his country, gave them a guide for +Macureguarai, the first town of civil and apparelled people, from +whence they had other guides to bring them to Manoa, the great city of +Inga; and being furnished with those things which they had learned of +Carapana were of most price in Guiana, went onward, and in eleven days +arrived at Manoa, as Berreo affirmeth for certain; although I could +not be assured thereof by the lord which now governeth the province of +Morequito, for he told me that they got all the gold they had in other +towns on this side Manoa, there being many very great and rich, and +(as he said) built like the towns of Christians, with many rooms. + +When these ten Spaniards were returned, and ready to put out of the +border of Aromaia (the district below the Caroni river), the people of +Morequito set upon them, and slew them all but one that swam the +river, and took from them to the value of 40,000 pesos of gold; and +one of them only lived to bring the news to Berreo, that both his nine +soldiers and holy father were benighted in the said province. I myself +spake with the captains of Morequito that slew them, and was at the +place where it was executed. Berreo, enraged herewithal, sent all the +strength he could make into Aromaia, to be revenged of him, his +people, and country. But Morequito, suspecting the same, fled over +Orenoque, and through the territories of the Saima and Wikiri +recovered Cumana, where he thought himself very safe, with Vides the +governor. But Berreo sending for him in the king's name, and his +messengers finding him in the house of one Fajardo, on the sudden, ere +he was suspected, so as he could not then be conveyed away, Vides +durst not deny him, as well to avoid the suspicion of the practice, as +also for that an holy father was slain by him and his people. +Morequito offered Fajardo the weight of three quintals in gold, to let +him escape; but the poor Guianian, betrayed on all sides, was +delivered to the camp-master of Berreo, and was presently executed. + +After the death of this Morequito, the soldiers of Berreo spoiled his +territory and took divers prisoners. Among others they took the uncle +of Morequito, called Topiawari, who is now king of Aromaia, whose son +I brought with me into England, and is a man of great understanding +and policy; he is above an hundred years old, and yet is of a very +able body. The Spaniards led him in a chain seventeen days, and made +him their guide from place to place between his country and Emeria, +the province of Carapana aforesaid, and he was at last redeemed for an +hundred plates of gold, and divers stones called piedras hijadas, or +spleen-stones. Now Berreo for executing of Morequito, and other +cruelties, spoils, and slaughters done in Aromaia, hath lost the love +of the Orenoqueponi, and of all the borderers, and dare not send any +of his soldiers any further into the land than to Carapana, which he +called the port of Guiana; but from thence by the help of Carapana he +had trade further into the country, and always appointed ten Spaniards +to reside in Carapana's town (the Spanish settlement of Santo Tome de +la Guyana, founded by Berrio in 1591 or 1592, but represented by +Raleigh as an Indian pueblo), by whose favour, and by being conducted +by his people, those ten searched the country thereabouts, as well for +mines as for other trades and commodities. + +They also have gotten a nephew of Morequito, whom they have christened +and named Don Juan, of whom they have great hope, endeavouring by all +means to establish him in the said province. Among many other trades, +those Spaniards used canoas to pass to the rivers of Barema, Pawroma, +and Dissequebe (Essequibo), which are on the south side of the mouth +of Orenoque, and there buy women and children from the cannibals, +which are of that barbarous nature, as they will for three or four +hatchets sell the sons and daughters of their own brethren and +sisters, and for somewhat more even their own daughters. Hereof the +Spaniards make great profit; for buying a maid of twelve or thirteen +years for three or four hatchets, they sell them again at Margarita in +the West Indies for fifty and an hundred pesos, which is so many +crowns. + +The master of my ship, John Douglas, took one of the canoas which came +laden from thence with people to be sold, and the most of them +escaped; yet of those he brought, there was one as well favoured and +as well shaped as ever I saw any in England; and afterwards I saw many +of them, which but for their tawny colour may be compared to any in +Europe. They also trade in those rivers for bread of cassavi, of which +they buy an hundred pound weight for a knife, and sell it at Margarita +for ten pesos. They also recover great store of cotton, Brazil wood, +and those beds which they call hamacas or Brazil beds, wherein in hot +countries all the Spaniards use to lie commonly, and in no other, +neither did we ourselves while we were there. By means of which +trades, for ransom of divers of the Guianians, and for exchange of +hatchets and knives, Berreo recovered some store of gold plates, +eagles of gold, and images of men and divers birds, and dispatched his +camp-master for Spain, with all that he had gathered, therewith to +levy soldiers, and by the show thereof to draw others to the love of +the enterprise. And having sent divers images as well of men as +beasts, birds, and fishes, so curiously wrought in gold, he doubted +not but to persuade the king to yield to him some further help, +especially for that this land hath never been sacked, the mines never +wrought, and in the Indies their works were well spent, and the gold +drawn out with great labour and charge. He also despatched messengers +to his son in Nuevo Reyno to levy all the forces he could, and to come +down the river Orenoque to Emeria, the province of Carapana, to meet +him; he had also sent to Santiago de Leon on the coast of the Caracas, +to buy horses and mules. + +After I had thus learned of his proceedings past and purposed, I told +him that I had resolved to see Guiana, and that it was the end of my +journey, and the cause of my coming to Trinidad, as it was indeed, and +for that purpose I sent Jacob Whiddon the year before to get +intelligence: with whom Berreo himself had speech at that time, and +remembered how inquisitive Jacob Whiddon was of his proceedings, and +of the country of Guiana. Berreo was stricken into a great melancholy +and sadness, and used all the arguments he could to dissuade me; and +also assured the gentlemen of my company that it would be labour lost, +and that they should suffer many miseries if they proceeded. And first +he delivered that I could not enter any of the rivers with any bark or +pinnace, or hardly with any ship's boat, it was so low, sandy, and +full of flats, and that his companies were daily grounded in their +canoes, which drew but twelve inches water. He further said that none +of the country would come to speak with us, but would all fly; and if +we followed them to their dwellings, they would burn their own towns. +And besides that, the way was long, the winter at hand, and that the +rivers beginning once to swell, it was impossible to stem the current; +and that we could not in those small boats by any means carry victuals +for half the time, and that (which indeed most discouraged my company) +the kings and lords of all the borders of Guiana had decreed that none +of them should trade with any Christians for gold, because the same +would be their own overthrow, and that for the love of gold the +Christians meant to conquer and dispossess them of all together. + +Many and the most of these I found to be true; but yet I resolving to +make trial of whatsoever happened, directed Captain George Gifford, my +Vice-Admiral, to take the Lion's Whelp, and Captain Caulfield his +bark, to turn to the eastward, against the mouth of a river called +Capuri, whose entrance I had before sent Captain Whiddon and John +Douglas the master to discover. Who found some nine foot water or +better upon the flood, and five at low water: to whom I had given +instructions that they should anchor at the edge of the shoal, and +upon the best of the flood to thrust over, which shoal John Douglas +buoyed and beckoned (beaconed) for them before. But they laboured in +vain; for neither could they turn it up altogether so far to the east, +neither did the flood continue so long, but the water fell ere they +could have passed the sands. As we after found by a second experience: +so as now we must either give over our enterprise, or leaving our +ships at adventure 400 mile behind us, must run up in our ship's +boats, one barge, and two wherries. But being doubtful how to carry +victuals for so long a time in such baubles, or any strength of men, +especially for that Berreo assured us that his son must be by that +time come down with many soldiers, I sent away one King, master of the +Lion's Whelp, with his ship-boat, to try another branch of the river +in the bottom of the Bay of Guanipa, which was called Amana, to prove +if there were water to be found for either of the small ships to +enter. But when he came to the mouth of Amana, he found it as the +rest, but stayed not to discover it thoroughly, because he was assured +by an Indian, his guide, that the cannibals of Guanipa would assail +them with many canoas, and that they shot poisoned arrows; so as if he +hasted not back, they should all be lost. + +In the meantime, fearing the worst, I caused all the carpenters we had +to cut down a galego boat, which we meant to cast off, and to fit her +with banks to row on, and in all things to prepare her the best they +could, so as she might be brought to draw but five foot: for so much +we had on the bar of Capuri at low water. And doubting of King's +return, I sent John Douglas again in my long barge, as well to relieve +him, as also to make a perfect search in the bottom of the bay; for it +hath been held for infallible, that whatsoever ship or boat shall fall +therein can never disemboque again, by reason of the violent current +which setteth into the said bay, as also for that the breeze and +easterly wind bloweth directly into the same. Of which opinion I have +heard John Hampton (Captain of the Minion in the third voyage of +Hawkins), of Plymouth, one of the greatest experience of England, and +divers other besides that have traded to Trinidad. + +I sent with John Douglas an old cacique of Trinidad for a pilot, who +told us that we could not return again by the bay or gulf, but that he +knew a by-branch which ran within the land to the eastward, and he +thought by it we might fall into Capuri, and so return in four days. +John Douglas searched those rivers, and found four goodly entrances, +whereof the least was as big as the Thames at Woolwich, but in the bay +thitherward it was shoal and but six foot water; so as we were now +without hope of any ship or bark to pass over, and therefore resolved +to go on with the boats, and the bottom of the galego, in which we +thrust 60 men. In the Lion's Whelp's boat and wherry we carried +twenty, Captain Caulfield in his wherry carried ten more, and in my +barge other ten, which made up a hundred; we had no other means but to +carry victual for a month in the same, and also to lodge therein as we +could, and to boil and dress our meat. Captain Gifford had with him +Master Edward Porter, Captain Eynos, and eight more in his wherry, +with all their victual, weapons, and provisions. Captain Caulfield had +with him my cousin Butshead Gorges, and eight more. In the galley, of +gentlemen and officers myself had Captain Thyn, my cousin John +Greenvile, my nephew John Gilbert, Captain Whiddon, Captain Keymis, +Edward Hancock, Captain Clarke, Lieutenant Hughes, Thomas Upton, +Captain Facy, Jerome Ferrar, Anthony Wells, William Connock, and above +fifty more. We could not learn of Berreo any other way to enter but in +branches so far to windward as it was impossible for us to recover; +for we had as much sea to cross over in our wherries, as between Dover +and Calice, and in a great bollow, the wind and current being both +very strong. So as we were driven to go in those small boats directly +before the wind into the bottom of the Bay of Guanipa, and from thence +to enter the mouth of some one of those rivers which John Douglas had +last discovered; and had with us for pilot an Indian of Barema, a +river to the south of Orenoque, between that and Amazons, whose canoas +we had formerly taken as he was going from the said Barema, laden with +cassavi bread to sell at Margarita. This Arwacan promised to bring me +into the great river of Orenoque; but indeed of that which he entered +he was utterly ignorant, for he had not seen it in twelve years +before, at which time he was very young, and of no judgment. And if +God had not sent us another help, we might have wandered a whole year +in that labyrinth of rivers, ere we had found any way, either out or +in, especially after we were past ebbing and flowing, which was in +four days. For I know all the earth doth not yield the like confluence +of streams and branches, the one crossing the other so many times, and +all so fair and large, and so like one to another, as no man can tell +which to take: and if we went by the sun or compass, hoping thereby to +go directly one way or other, yet that way we were also carried in a +circle amongst multitudes of islands, and every island so bordered +with high trees as no man could see any further than the breadth of +the river, or length of the breach. But this it chanced, that entering +into a river (which because it had no name, we called the River of the +Red Cross, ourselves being the first Christians that ever came +therein), the 22. of May, as we were rowing up the same, we espied a +small canoa with three Indians, which by the swiftness of my barge, +rowing with eight oars, I overtook ere they could cross the river. The +rest of the people on the banks, shadowed under the thick wood, gazed +on with a doubtful conceit what might befall those three which we had +taken. But when they perceived that we offered them no violence, +neither entered their canoa with any of ours, nor took out of the +canoa any of theirs, they then began to show themselves on the bank's +side, and offered to traffic with us for such things as they had. And +as we drew near, they all stayed; and we came with our barge to the +mouth of a little creek which came from their town into the great +river. + +As we abode here awhile, our Indian pilot, called Ferdinando, would +needs go ashore to their village to fetch some fruits and to drink of +their artificial wines, and also to see the place and know the lord of +it against another time, and took with him a brother of his which he +had with him in the journey. When they came to the village of these +people the lord of the island offered to lay hands on them, purposing +to have slain them both; yielding for reason that this Indian of ours +had brought a strange nation into their territory to spoil and destroy +them. But the pilot being quick and of a disposed body, slipt their +fingers and ran into the woods, and his brother, being the better +footman of the two, recovered the creek's mouth, where we stayed in +our barge, crying out that his brother was slain. With that we set +hands on one of them that was next us, a very old man, and brought him +into the barge, assuring him that if we had not our pilot again we +would presently cut off his head. This old man, being resolved that he +should pay the loss of the other, cried out to those in the woods to +save Ferdinando, our pilot; but they followed him notwithstanding, and +hunted after him upon the foot with their deer-dogs, and with so main +a cry that all the woods echoed with the shout they made. But at the +last this poor chased Indian recovered the river side and got upon a +tree, and, as we were coasting, leaped down and swam to the barge half +dead with fear. But our good hap was that we kept the other old +Indian, which we handfasted to redeem our pilot withal; for, being +natural of those rivers, we assured ourselves that he knew the way +better than any stranger could. And, indeed, but for this chance, I +think we had never found the way either to Guiana or back to our +ships; for Ferdinando after a few days knew nothing at all, nor which +way to turn; yea, and many times the old man himself was in great +doubt which river to take. Those people which dwell in these broken +islands and drowned lands are generally called Tivitivas. There are of +them two sorts; the one called Ciawani, and the other Waraweete. + +The great river of Orenoque or Baraquan hath nine branches which fall +out on the north side of his own main mouth. On the south side it hath +seven other fallings into the sea, so it disemboqueth by sixteen arms +in all, between islands and broken ground; but the islands are very +great, many of them as big as the Isle of Wight, and bigger, and many +less. From the first branch on the north to the last of the south it +is at least 100 leagues, so as the river's mouth is 300 miles wide at +his entrance into the sea, which I take to be far bigger than that of +Amazons. All those that inhabit in the mouth of this river upon the +several north branches are these Tivitivas, of which there are two +chief lords which have continual wars one with the other. The islands +which lie on the right hand are called Pallamos, and the land on the +left, Hororotomaka; and the river by which John Douglas returned +within the land from Amana to Capuri they call Macuri. + +These Tivitivas are a very goodly people and very valiant, and have +the most manly speech and most deliberate that ever I heard of what +nation soever. In the summer they have houses on the ground, as in +other places; in the winter they dwell upon the trees, where they +build very artificial towns and villages, as it is written in the +Spanish story of the West Indies that those people do in the low lands +near the gulf of Uraba. For between May and September the river of +Orenoque riseth thirty foot upright, and then are those islands +overflown twenty foot high above the level of the ground, saving some +few raised grounds in the middle of them; and for this cause they are +enforced to live in this manner. They never eat of anything that is +set or sown; and as at home they use neither planting nor other +manurance, so when they come abroad they refuse to feed of aught but +of that which nature without labour bringeth forth. They use the tops +of palmitos for bread, and kill deer, fish, and porks for the rest of +their sustenance. They have also many sorts of fruits that grow in the +woods, and great variety of birds and fowls; and if to speak of them +were not tedious and vulgar, surely we saw in those passages of very +rare colours and forms not elsewhere to be found, for as much as I +have either seen or read. + +Of these people those that dwell upon the branches of Orenoque, called +Capuri, and Macureo, are for the most part carpenters of canoas; for +they make the most and fairest canoas; and sell them into Guiana for +gold and into Trinidad for tabacco, in the excessive taking whereof +they exceed all nations. And notwithstanding the moistness of the air +in which they live, the hardness of their diet, and the great labours +they suffer to hunt, fish, and fowl for their living, in all my life, +either in the Indies or in Europe, did I never behold a more goodly or +better-favoured people or a more manly. They were wont to make war +upon all nations, and especially on the Cannibals, so as none durst +without a good strength trade by those rivers; but of late they are at +peace with their neighbours, all holding the Spaniards for a common +enemy. When their commanders die they use great lamentation; and when +they think the flesh of their bodies is putrified and fallen from +their bones, then they take up the carcase again and hang it in the +cacique's house that died, and deck his skull with feathers of all +colours, and hang all his gold plates about the bones of this arms, +thighs, and legs. Those nations which are called Arwacas, which dwell +on the south of Orenoque, of which place and nation our Indian pilot +was, are dispersed in many other places, and do use to beat the bones +of their lords into powder, and their wives and friends drink it all +in their several sorts of drinks. + +After we departed from the port of these Ciawani we passed up the +river with the flood and anchored the ebb, and in this sort we went +onward. The third day that we entered the river, our galley came on +ground; and stuck so fast as we thought that even there our discovery +had ended, and that we must have left four-score and ten of our men to +have inhabited, like rooks upon trees, with those nations. But the +next morning, after we had cast out all her ballast, with tugging and +hauling to and fro we got her afloat and went on. At four days' end we +fell into as goodly a river as ever I beheld, which was called the +great Amana, which ran more directly without windings and turnings +than the other. But soon after the flood of the sea left us; and, +being enforced either by main strength to row against a violent +current, or to return as wise as we went out, we had then no shift but +to persuade the companies that it was but two or three days' work, and +therefore desired them to take pains, every gentleman and others +taking their turns to row, and to spell one the other at the hour's +end. Every day we passed by goodly branches of rivers, some falling +from the west, others from the east, into Amana; but those I leave to +the description in the chart of discovery, where every one shall be +named with his rising and descent. When three days more were overgone, +our companies began to despair, the weather being extreme hot, the +river bordered with very high trees that kept away the air, and the +current against us every day stronger than other. But we evermore +commanded our pilots to promise an end the next day, and used it so +long as we were driven to assure them from four reaches of the river +to three, and so to two, and so to the next reach. But so long we +laboured that many days were spent, and we driven to draw ourselves to +harder allowance, our bread even at the last, and no drink at all; and +our men and ourselves so wearied and scorched, and doubtful withal +whether we should ever perform it or no, the heat increasing as we +drew towards the line; for we were now in five degrees. + +The further we went on, our victual decreasing and the air breeding +great faintness, we grew weaker and weaker, when we had most need of +strength and ability. For hourly the river ran more violently than +other against us, and the barge, wherries, and ship's boat of Captain +Gifford and Captain Caulfield had spent all their provisions; so as we +were brought into despair and discomfort, had we not persuaded all the +company that it was but only one day's work more to attain the land +where we should be relieved of all we wanted, and if we returned, that +we were sure to starve by the way, and that the world would also laugh +us to scorn. On the banks of these rivers were divers sorts of fruits +good to eat, flowers and trees of such variety as were sufficient to +make ten volumes of Herbals; we relieved ourselves many times with the +fruits of the country, and sometimes with fowl and fish. We saw birds +of all colours, some carnation, some crimson, orange-tawny, purple, +watchet (pale blue), and of all other sorts, both simple and mixed, +and it was unto us a great good-passing of the time to behold them, +besides the relief we found by killing some store of them with our +fowling-pieces; without which, having little or no bread, and less +drink, but only the thick and troubled water of the river, we had been +in a very hard case. + +Our old pilot of the Ciawani, whom, as I said before, we took to +redeem Ferdinando, told us, that if we would enter a branch of a river +on the right hand with our barge and wherries, and leave the galley at +anchor the while in the great river, he would bring us to a town of +the Arwacas, where we should find store of bread, hens, fish, and of +the country wine; and persuaded us, that departing from the galley at +noon we might return ere night. I was very glad to hear this speech, +and presently took my barge, with eight musketeers, Captain Gifford's +wherry, with himself and four musketeers, and Captain Caulfield with +his wherry, and as many; and so we entered the mouth of this river; +and because we were persuaded that it was so near, we took no victual +with us at all. When we had rowed three hours, we marvelled we saw no +sign of any dwelling, and asked the pilot where the town was; he told +us, a little further. After three hours more, the sun being almost +set, we began to suspect that he led us that way to betray us; for he +confessed that those Spaniards which fled from Trinidad, and also +those that remained with Carapana in Emeria, were joined together in +some village upon that river. But when it grew towards night, and we +demanded where the place was, he told us but four reaches more. When +we had rowed four and four, we saw no sign; and our poor watermen, +even heart-broken and tired, were ready to give up the ghost; for we +had now come from the galley near forty miles. + +At the last we determined to hang the pilot; and if we had well known +the way back again by night, he had surely gone. But our own +necessities pleaded sufficiently for his safety; for it was as dark as +pitch, and the river began so to narrow itself, and the trees to hang +over from side to side, as we were driven with arming swords to cut a +passage through those branches that covered the water. We were very +desirous to find this town hoping of a feast, because we made but a +short breakfast aboard the galley in the morning, and it was now eight +o'clock at night, and our stomachs began to gnaw apace; but whether it +was best to return or go on, we began to doubt, suspecting treason in +the pilot more and more; but the poor old Indian ever assured us that +it was but a little further, but this one turning and that turning; +and at the last about one o'clock after midnight we saw a light, and +rowing towards it we heard the dogs of the village. When we landed we +found few people; for the lord of that place was gone with divers +canoas above 400 miles off, upon a journey towards the head of +Orenoque, to trade for gold, and to buy women of the Cannibals, who +afterwards unfortunately passed by us as we rode at an anchor in the +port of Morequito in the dark of the night, and yet came so near us as +his canoas grated against our barges; he left one of his company at +the port of Morequito, by whom we understood that he had brought +thirty young women, divers plates of gold, and had great store of fine +pieces of cotton cloth, and cotton beds. In his house we had good +store of bread, fish, hens, and Indian drink, and so rested that +night; and in the morning, after we had traded with such of his people +as came down, we returned towards our galley, and brought with us some +quantity of bread, fish, and hens. + +On both sides of this river we passed the most beautiful country that +ever mine eyes beheld; and whereas all that we had seen before was +nothing but woods, prickles, bushes, and thorns, here we beheld plains +of twenty miles in length, the grass short and green, and in divers +parts groves of trees by themselves, as if they had been by all the +art and labour in the world so made of purpose; and still as we rowed, +the deer came down feeding by the water's side as if they had been +used to a keeper's call. Upon this river there were great store of +fowl, and of many sorts; we saw in it divers sorts of strange fishes, +and of marvellous bigness; but for lagartos (alligators and caymans) +it exceeded, for there were thousands of those ugly serpents; and the +people call it, for the abundance of them, the River of Lagartos, in +their language. I had a negro, a very proper young fellow, who leaping +out of the galley to swim in the mouth of this river, was in all our +sights taken and devoured with one of those lagartos. In the meanwhile +our companies in the galley thought we had been all lost, for we +promised to return before night; and sent the Lion's Whelp's ship's +boat with Captain Whiddon to follow us up the river. But the next day, +after we had rowed up and down some fourscore miles, we returned, and +went on our way up the great river; and when we were even at the last +cast for want of victuals, Captain Gifford being before the galley and +the rest of the boats, seeking out some place to land upon the banks +to make fire, espied four canoas coming down the river; and with no +small joy caused his men to try the uttermost of their strengths, and +after a while two of the four gave over and ran themselves ashore, +every man betaking himself to the fastness of the woods. The two other +lesser got away, while he landed to lay hold on these; and so turned +into some by-creek, we knew not whither. Those canoas that were taken +were loaded with bread, and were bound for Margarita in the West +Indies, which those Indians, called Arwacas, proposed to carry thither +for exchange; but in the lesser there were three Spaniards, who having +heard of the defeat of their Governor in Trinidad, and that we +purposed to enter Guiana, came away in those canoas; one of them was a +cavallero, as the captain of the Arwacas after told us, another a +soldier and the third a refiner. + +In the meantime, nothing on the earth could have been more welcome to +us, next unto gold, than the great store of very excellent bread which +we found in these canoas; for now our men cried, "Let us go on, we +care not how far." After that Captain Gifford had brought the two +canoas to the galley, I took my barge and went to the bank's side with +a dozen shot, where the canoas first ran themselves ashore, and landed +there, sending out Captain Gifford and Captain Thyn on one hand and +Captain Caulfield on the other, to follow those that were fled into +the woods. And as I was creeping through the bushes, I saw an Indian +basket hidden, which was the refiner's basket; for I found in it his +quicksilver, saltpetre, and divers things for the trial of metals, and +also the dust of such ore as he had refined; but in those canoas which +escaped there was a good quantity of ore and gold. I then landed more +men, and offered five hundred pound to what soldier soever could take +one of those three Spaniards that we thought were landed. But our +labours were in vain in that behalf, for they put themselves into one +of the small canoas, and so, while the greater canoas were in taking, +they escaped. But seeking after the Spaniards we found the Arwacas +hidden in the woods, which were pilots for the Spaniards, and rowed +their canoas. Of which I kept the chiefest for a pilot, and carried +him with me to Guiana; by whom I understood where and in what +countries the Spaniards had laboured for gold, though I made not the +same known to all. For when the springs began to break, and the rivers +to raise themselves so suddenly as by no means we could abide the +digging of any mine, especially for that the richest are defended with +rocks of hard stones, which we call the white spar, and that it +required both time, men, and instruments fit for such a work, I +thought it best not to hover thereabouts, lest if the same had been +perceived by the company, there would have been by this time many +barks and ships set out, and perchance other nations would also have +gotten of ours for pilots. So as both ourselves might have been +prevented, and all our care taken for good usage of the people been +utterly lost, by those that only respect present profit; and such +violence or insolence offered as the nations which are borderers would +have changed the desire of our love and defence into hatred and +violence. And for any longer stay to have brought a more quantity, +which I hear hath been often objected, whosoever had seen or proved +the fury of that river after it began to arise, and had been a month +and odd days, as we were, from hearing aught from our ships, leaving +them meanly manned 400 miles off, would perchance have turned somewhat +sooner than we did, if all the mountains had been gold, or rich +stones. And to say the truth, all the branches and small rivers which +fell into Orenoque were raised with such speed, as if we waded them +over the shoes in the morning outward, we were covered to the +shoulders homeward the very same day; and to stay to dig our gold with +our nails, had been opus laboris but not ingenii. Such a quantity as +would have served our turns we could not have had, but a discovery of +the mines to our infinite disadvantage we had made, and that could +have been the best profit of farther search or stay; for those mines +are not easily broken, nor opened in haste, and I could have returned +a good quantity of gold ready cast if I had not shot at another mark +than present profit. + +This Arwacan pilot, with the rest, feared that we would have eaten +them, or otherwise have put them to some cruel death: for the +Spaniards, to the end that none of the people in the passage towards +Guiana, or in Guiana itself, might come to speech with us, persuaded +all the nations that we were men-eaters and cannibals. But when the +poor men and women had seen us, and that we gave them meat, and to +every one something or other which was rare and strange to them, they +began to conceive the deceit and purpose of the Spaniards, who indeed, +as they confessed took from them both their wives and daughters daily +. . . But I protest before the Majesty of the living God, that I +neither know nor believe, that any of our company, one or other, did +offer insult to any of their women, and yet we saw many hundreds, and +had many in our power, and of those very young and excellently +favoured, which came among us without deceit, stark naked. Nothing got +us more love amongst them than this usage; for I suffered not any man +to take from any of the nations so much as a pina (pineapple) or a +potato root without giving them contentment, nor any man so much as to +offer to touch any of their wives or daughters; which course, so +contrary to the Spaniards, who tyrannize over them in all things, drew +them to admire her Majesty, whose commandment I told them it was, and +also wonderfully to honour our nation. But I confess it was a very +impatient work to keep the meaner sort from spoil and stealing when we +came to their houses; which because in all I could not prevent, I +caused my Indian interpreter at every place when we departed, to know +of the loss or wrong done, and if aught were stolen or taken by +violence, either the same was restored, and the party punished in +their sight, or else was paid for to their uttermost demand. They also +much wondered at us, after they heard that we had slain the Spaniards +at Trinidad, for they were before resolved that no nation of +Christians durst abide their presence; and they wondered more when I +had made them know of the great overthrow that her Majesty's army and +fleet had given them of late years in their own countries. + +After we had taken in this supply of bread, with divers baskets of +roots, which were excellent meat, I gave one of the canoas to the +Arwacas, which belonged to the Spaniards that were escaped; and when I +had dismissed all but the captain, who by the Spaniards was christened +Martin, I sent back in the same canoa the old Ciawani, and Ferdinando, +my first pilot, and gave them both such things as they desired, with +sufficient victual to carry them back, and by them wrote a letter to +the ships, which they promised to deliver, and performed it; and then +I went on, with my new hired pilot, Martin the Arwacan. But the next +or second day after, we came aground again with our galley, and were +like to cast her away, with all our victual and provision, and so lay +on the sand one whole night, and were far more in despair at this time +to free her than before, because we had no tide of flood to help us, +and therefore feared that all our hopes would have ended in mishaps. +But we fastened an anchor upon the land, and with main strength drew +her off; and so the fifteenth day we discovered afar off the mountains +of Guiana, to our great joy, and towards the evening had a slent +(push) of a northerly wind that blew very strong, which brought us in +sight of the great river Orenoque; out of which this river descended +wherein we were. We descried afar off three other canoas as far as we +could discern them, after whom we hastened with our barge and +wherries, but two of them passed out of sight, and the third entered +up the great river, on the right hand to the westward, and there +stayed out of sight, thinking that we meant to take the way eastward +towards the province of Carapana; for that way the Spaniards keep, not +daring to go upwards to Guiana, the people in those parts being all +their enemies, and those in the canoas thought us to have been those +Spaniards that were fled from Trinidad, and escaped killing. And when +we came so far down as the opening of that branch into which they +slipped, being near them with our barge and wherries, we made after +them, and ere they could land came within call, and by our interpreter +told them what we were, wherewith they came back willingly aboard us; +and of such fish and tortugas' (turtles) eggs as they had gathered +they gave us, and promised in the morning to bring the lord of that +part with them, and to do us all other services they could. That night +we came to an anchor at the parting of the three goodly rivers (the +one was the river of Amana, by which we came from the north, and ran +athwart towards the south, the other two were of Orenoque, which +crossed from the west and ran to the sea towards the east) and landed +upon a fair sand, where we found thousands of tortugas' eggs, which +are very wholesome meat, and greatly restoring; so as our men were now +well filled and highly contented both with the fare, and nearness of +the land of Guiana, which appeared in sight. + +In the morning there came down, according to promise, the lord of that +border, called Toparimaca, with some thirty or forty followers, and +brought us divers sorts of fruits, and of his wine, bread, fish, and +flesh, whom we also feasted as we could; at least we drank good +Spanish wine, whereof we had a small quantity in bottles, which above +all things they love. I conferred with this Toparimaca of the next way +to Guiana, who conducted our galley and boats to his own port, and +carried us from thence some mile and a-half to his town; where some of +our captains caroused of his wine till they were reasonable pleasant, +for it is very strong with pepper, and the juice of divers herbs and +fruits digested and purged. They keep it in great earthen pots of ten +or twelve gallons, very clean and sweet, and are themselves at their +meetings and feasts the greatest carousers and drunkards of the world. +When we came to his town we found two caciques, whereof one was a +stranger that had been up the river in trade, and his boats, people, +and wife encamped at the port where we anchored; and the other was of +that country, a follower of Toparimaca. They lay each of them in a +cotton hamaca, which we call Brazil beds, and two women attending them +with six cups, and a little ladle to fill them out of an earthen +pitcher of wine; and so they drank each of them three of those cups at +a time one to the other, and in this sort they drink drunk at their +feasts and meetings. + +That cacique that was a stranger had his wife staying at the port +where we anchored, and in all my life I have seldom seen a better +favoured woman. She was of good stature, with black eyes, fat of body, +of an excellent countenance, her hair almost as long as herself, tied +up again in pretty knots; and it seemed she stood not in that awe of +her husband as the rest, for she spake and discoursed, and drank among +the gentlemen and captains, and was very pleasant, knowing her own +comeliness, and taking great pride therein. I have seen a lady in +England so like to her, as but for the difference of colour, I would +have sworn might have been the same. + +The seat of this town of Toparimaca was very pleasant, standing on a +little hill, in an excellent prospect, with goodly gardens a mile +compass round about it, and two very fair and large ponds of excellent +fish adjoining. This town is called Arowocai; the people are of the +nation called Nepoios, and are followers of Carapana. In that place I +saw very aged people, that we might perceive all their sinews and +veins without any flesh, and but even as a case covered only with +skin. The lord of this place gave me an old man for pilot, who was of +great experience and travel, and knew the river most perfectly both by +day and night. And it shall be requisite for any man that passeth it +to have such a pilot; for it is four, five, and six miles over in many +places, and twenty miles in other places, with wonderful eddies and +strong currents, many great islands, and divers shoals, and many +dangerous rocks; and besides upon any increase of wind so great a +billow, as we were sometimes in great peril of drowning in the galley, +for the small boats durst not come from the shore but when it was very +fair. + +The next day we hasted thence, and having an easterly wind to help us, +we spared our arms from rowing; for after we entered Orenoque, the +river lieth for the most part east and west, even from the sea unto +Quito, in Peru. This river is navigable with barks little less than +1000 miles; and from the place where we entered it may be sailed up in +small pinnaces to many of the best parts of Nuevo Reyno de Granada and +of Popayan. And from no place may the cities of these parts of the +Indies be so easily taken and invaded as from hence. All that day we +sailed up a branch of that river, having on the left hand a great +island, which they call Assapana, which may contain some five-and- +twenty miles in length, and six miles in breadth, the great body of +the river running on the other side of this island. Beyond that middle +branch there is also another island in the river, called Iwana, which +is twice as big as the Isle of Wight; and beyond it, and between it +and the main of Guiana, runneth a third branch of Orenoque, called +Arraroopana. All three are goodly branches, and all navigable for +great ships. I judge the river in this place to be at least thirty +miles broad, reckoning the islands which divide the branches in it, +for afterwards I sought also both the other branches. + +After we reached to the head of the island called Assapana, a little +to the westward on the right hand there opened a river which came from +the north, called Europa, and fell into the great river; and beyond it +on the same side we anchored for that night by another island, six +miles long and two miles broad, which they call Ocaywita. From hence, +in the morning, we landed two Guianians, which we found in the town of +Toparimaca, that came with us; who went to give notice of our coming +to the lord of that country, called Putyma, a follower of Topiawari, +chief lord of Aromaia, who succeeded Morequito, whom (as you have +heard before) Berreo put to death. But his town being far within the +land, he came not unto us that day; so as we anchored again that night +near the banks of another land, of bigness much like the other, which +they call Putapayma, over against which island, on the main land, was +a very high mountain called Oecope. We coveted to anchor rather by +these islands in the river than by the main, because of the tortugas' +eggs, which our people found on them in great abundance; and also +because the ground served better for us to cast our nets for fish, the +main banks being for the most part stony and high and the rocks of a +blue, metalline colour, like unto the best steel ore, which I +assuredly take it to be. Of the same blue stone are also divers great +mountains which border this river in many places. + +The next morning, towards nine of the clock, we weighed anchor; and +the breeze increasing, we sailed always west up the river, and, after +a while, opening the land on the right side, the country appeared to +be champaign and the banks shewed very perfect red. I therefore sent +two of the little barges with Captain Gifford, and with him Captain +Thyn, Captain Caulfield, my cousin Greenvile, my nephew John Gilbert, +Captain Eynos, Master Edward Porter, and my cousin Butshead Gorges, +with some few soldiers, to march over the banks of that red land and +to discover what manner of country it was on the other side; who at +their return found it all a plain level as far as they went or could +discern from the highest tree they could get upon. And my old pilot, a +man of great travel, brother to the cacique Toparimaca, told me that +those were called the plains of the Sayma, and that the same level +reached to Cumana and Caracas, in the West Indies, which are a hundred +and twenty leagues to the north, and that there inhabited four +principal nations. The first were the Sayma, the next Assawai, the +third and greatest the Wikiri, by whom Pedro Hernandez de Serpa, +before mentioned, was overthrown as he passed with 300 horse from +Cumana towards Orenoque in his enterprise of Guiana. The fourth are +called Aroras, and are as black as negroes, but have smooth hair; and +these are very valiant, or rather desperate, people, and have the most +strong poison on their arrows, and most dangerous, of all nations, of +which I will speak somewhat, being a digression not unnecessary. + +There was nothing whereof I was more curious than to find out the true +remedies of these poisoned arrows. For besides the mortality of the +wound they make, the party shot endureth the most insufferable torment +in the world, and abideth a most ugly and lamentable death, sometimes +dying stark mad, sometimes their bowels breaking out of their bellies; +which are presently discoloured as black as pitch, and so unsavory as +no man can endure to cure or to attend them. And it is more strange to +know that in all this time there was never Spaniard, either by gift or +torment, that could attain to the true knowledge of the cure, although +they have martyred and put to invented torture I know not how many of +them. But everyone of these Indians know it not, no, not one among +thousands, but their soothsayers and priests, who do conceal it, and +only teach it but from the father to the son. + +Those medicines which are vulgar, and serve for the ordinary poison, +are made of the juice of a root called tupara; the same also quencheth +marvellously the heat of burning fevers, and healeth inward wounds and +broken veins that bleed within the body. But I was more beholding to +the Guianians than any other; for Antonio de Berreo told me that he +could never attain to the knowledge thereof, and yet they taught me +the best way of healing as well thereof as of all other poisons. Some +of the Spaniards have been cured in ordinary wounds of the common +poisoned arrows with the juice of garlic. But this is a general rule +for all men that shall hereafter travel the Indies where poisoned +arrows are used, that they must abstain from drink. For if they take +any liquor into their body, as they shall be marvellously provoked +thereunto by drought, I say, if they drink before the wound be +dressed, or soon upon it, there is no way with them but present death. + +And so I will return again to our journey, which for this third day we +finished, and cast anchor again near the continent on the left hand +between two mountains, the one called Aroami and the other Aio. I made +no stay here but till midnight; for I feared hourly lest any rain +should fall, and then it had been impossible to have gone any further +up, notwithstanding that there is every day a very strong breeze and +easterly wind. I deferred the search of the country on Guiana side +till my return down the river. + +The next day we sailed by a great island in the middle of the river, +called Manoripano; and, as we walked awhile on the island, while the +galley got ahead of us, there came for us from the main a small canoa +with seven or eight Guianians, to invite us to anchor at their port, +but I deferred till my return. It was that cacique to whom those +Nepoios went, which came with us from the town of Toparimaca. And so +the fifth day we reached as high up as the province of Aromaia, the +country of Morequito, whom Berreo executed, and anchored to the west +of an island called Murrecotima, ten miles long and five broad. And +that night the cacique Aramiary, to whose town we made our long and +hungry voyage out of the river of Amana, passed by us. + +The next day we arrived at the port of Morequito, and anchored there, +sending away one of our pilots to seek the king of Aromaia, uncle to +Morequito, slain by Berreo as aforesaid. The next day following, +before noon, he came to us on foot from his house, which was fourteen +English miles, himself being a hundred and ten years old, and returned +on foot the same day; and with him many of the borderers, with many +women and children, that came to wonder at our nation and to bring us +down victual, which they did in great plenty, as venison, pork, hens, +chickens, fowl, fish, with divers sorts of excellent fruits and roots, +and great abundance of pinas, the princess of fruits that grow under +the sun, especially those of Guiana. They brought us, also, store of +bread and of their wine, and a sort of paraquitos no bigger than +wrens, and of all other sorts both small and great. One of them gave +me a beast called by the Spaniards armadillo, which they call +cassacam, which seemeth to be all barred over with small plates +somewhat like to a rhinoceros, with a white horn growing in his hinder +parts as big as a great hunting-horn, which they use to wind instead +of a trumpet. Monardus (Monardes, Historia Medicinal) writeth that a +little of the powder of that horn put into the ear cureth deafness. + +After this old king had rested awhile in a little tent that I caused +to be set up, I began by my interpreter to discourse with him of the +death of Morequito his predecessor, and afterward of the Spaniards; +and ere I went any farther I made him know the cause of my coming +thither, whose servant I was, and that the Queen's pleasure was I +should undertake the voyage for their defence, and to deliver them +from the tyranny of the Spaniards, dilating at large, as I had done +before to those of Trinidad, her Majesty's greatness, her justice, her +charity to all oppressed nations, with as many of the rest of her +beauties and virtues as either I could express or they conceive. All +which being with great admiration attentively heard and marvellously +admired, I began to sound the old man as touching Guiana and the state +thereof, what sort of commonwealth it was, how governed, of what +strength and policy, how far it extended, and what nations were +friends or enemies adjoining, and finally of the distance, and way to +enter the same. He told me that himself and his people, with all those +down the river towards the sea, as far as Emeria, the province of +Carapana, were of Guiana, but that they called themselves +Orenoqueponi, and that all the nations between the river and those +mountains in sight, called Wacarima, were of the same cast and +appellation; and that on the other side of those mountains of Wacarima +there was a large plain (which after I discovered in my return) called +the valley of Amariocapana. In all that valley the people were also of +the ancient Guianians. + +I asked what nations those were which inhabited on the further side of +those mountains, beyond the valley of Amariocapana. He answered with a +great sigh (as a man which had inward feeling of the loss of his +country and liberty, especially for that his eldest son was slain in a +battle on that side of the mountains, whom he most entirely loved) +that he remembered in his father's lifetime, when he was very old and +himself a young man, that there came down into that large valley of +Guiana a nation from so far off as the sun slept (for such were his +own words), with so great a multitude as they could not be numbered +nor resisted, and that they wore large coats, and hats of crimson +colour, which colour he expressed by shewing a piece of red wood +wherewith my tent was supported, and that they were called Orejones +and Epuremei; that those had slain and rooted out so many of the +ancient people as there were leaves in the wood upon all the trees, +and had now made themselves lords of all, even to that mountain foot +called Curaa, saving only of two nations, the one called Iwarawaqueri +and the other Cassipagotos; and that in the last battle fought between +the Epuremei and the Iwarawaqueri his eldest son was chosen to carry +to the aid of the Iwarawaqueri a great troop of the Orenoqueponi, and +was there slain with all his people and friends, and that he had now +remaining but one son; and farther told me that those Epuremei had +built a great town called Macureguarai at the said mountain foot, at +the beginning of the great plains of Guiana, which have no end; and +that their houses have many rooms, one over the other, and that +therein the great king of the Orejones and Epuremei kept three +thousand men to defend the borders against them, and withal daily to +invade and slay them; but that of late years, since the Christians +offered to invade his territories and those frontiers, they were all +at peace, and traded one with another, saving only the Iwarawaqueri +and those other nations upon the head of the river of Caroli called +Cassipagotos, which we afterwards discovered, each one holding the +Spaniard for a common enemy. + +After he had answered thus far, he desired leave to depart, saying +that he had far to go, that he was old and weak, and was every day +called for by death, which was also his own phrase. I desired him to +rest with us that night, but I could not entreat him; but he told me +that at my return from the country above he would again come to us, +and in the meantime provide for us the best he could, of all that his +country yielded. The same night he returned to Orocotona, his own +town; so as he went that day eight-and-twenty miles, the weather being +very hot, the country being situate between four and five degrees of +the equinoctial. This Topiawari is held for the proudest and wisest of +all the Orenoqueponi, and so he behaved himself towards me in all his +answers, at my return, as I marvelled to find a man of that gravity +and judgment and of so good discourse, that had no help of learning +nor breed. The next morning we also left the port, and sailed westward +up to the river, to view the famous river called Caroli, as well +because it was marvellous of itself, as also for that I understood it +led to the strongest nations of all the frontiers, that were enemies +to the Epuremei, which are subjects to Inga, emperor of Guiana and +Manoa. And that night we anchored at another island called Caiama, of +some five or six miles in length; and the next day arrived at the +mouth of Caroli. When we were short of it as low or further down as +the port of Morequito, we heard the great roar and fall of the river. +But when we came to enter with our barge and wherries, thinking to +have gone up some forty miles to the nations of the Cassipagotos, we +were not able with a barge of eight oars to row one stone's cast in an +hour; and yet the river is as broad as the Thames at Woolwich, and we +tried both sides, and the middle, and every part of the river. So as +we encamped upon the banks adjoining, and sent off our Orenoquepone +which came with us from Morequito to give knowledge to the nations +upon the river of our being there, and that we desired to see the +lords of Canuria, which dwelt within the province upon that river, +making them know that we were enemies to the Spaniards; for it was on +this river side that Morequito slew the friar, and those nine +Spaniards which came from Manoa, the city of Inga, and took from them +14,000 pesos of gold. So as the next day there came down a lord or +cacique, called Wanuretona, with many people with him, and brought all +store of provisions to entertain us, as the rest had done. And as I +had before made my coming known to Topiawari, so did I acquaint this +cacique therewith, and how I was sent by her Majesty for the purpose +aforesaid, and gathered also what I could of him touching the estate +of Guiana. And I found that those also of Caroli were not only enemies +to the Spaniards, but most of all to the Epuremei, which abound in +gold. And by this Wanuretona I had knowledge that on the head of this +river were three mighty nations, which were seated on a great lake, +from whence this river descended, and were called Cassipagotos, +Eparegotos, and Arawagotos (the Purigotos and Arinagotos are still +settled on the upper tributaries of the Caroni river, no such lake as +that mentioned is known to exist); and that all those either against +the Spaniards or the Epuremei would join with us, and that if we +entered the land over the mountains of Curaa we should satisfy +ourselves with gold and all other good things. He told us farther of a +nation called Iwarawaqueri, before spoken of, that held daily war with +the Epuremei that inhabited Macureguarai, and first civil town of +Guiana, of the subjects of Inga, the emperor. + +Upon this river one Captain George, that I took with Berreo, told me +that there was a great silver mine, and that it was near the banks of +the said river. But by this time as well Orenoque, Caroli, as all the +rest of the rivers were risen four or five feet in height, so as it +was not possible by the strength of any men, or with any boat +whatsoever, to row into the river against the stream. I therefore sent +Captain Thyn, Captain Greenvile, my nephew John Gilbert, my cousin +Butshead Gorges, Captain Clarke, and some thirty shot more to coast +the river by land, and to go to a town some twenty miles over the +valley called Amnatapoi; and they found guides there to go farther +towards the mountain foot to another great town called Capurepana, +belonging to a cacique called Haharacoa, that was a nephew to old +Topiawari, king of Aromaia, our chiefest friend, because this town and +province of Capurepana adjoined to Macureguarai, which was a frontier +town of the empire. And the meanwhile myself with Captain Gifford, +Captain Caulfield, Edward Hancock, and some half-a-dozen shot marched +overland to view the strange overfalls of the river of Caroli, which +roared so far off; and also to see the plains adjoining, and the rest +of the province of Canuri. I sent also Captain Whiddon, William +Connock, and some eight shot with them, to see if they could find any +mineral stone alongst the river's side. When we were come to the tops +of the first hills of the plains adjoining to the river, we beheld +that wonderful breach of waters which ran down Caroli; and might from +that mountain see the river how it ran in three parts, above twenty +miles off, and there appeared some ten or twelve overfalls in sight, +every one as high over the other as a church tower, which fell with +that fury, that the rebound of water made it seem as if it had been +all covered over with a great shower of rain; and in some places we +took it at the first for a smoke that had risen over some great town. +For mine own part I was well persuaded from thence to have returned, +being a very ill footman; but the rest were all so desirous to go near +the said strange thunder of waters, as they drew me on by little and +little, till we came into the next valley, where we might better +discern the same. I never saw a more beautiful country, nor more +lively prospects; hills so raised here and there over the valleys; the +river winding into divers branches; the plains adjoining without bush +or stubble, all fair green grass; the ground of hard sand, easy to +march on, either for horse or foot; the deer crossing in every path; +the birds towards the evening singing on every tree with a thousand +several tunes; cranes and herons of white, crimson, and carnation, +perching in the river's side; the air fresh with a gentle easterly +wind; and every stone that we stooped to take up promised either gold +or silver by his complexion. Your Lordship shall see of many sorts, +and I hope some of them cannot be bettered under the sun; and yet we +had no means but with our daggers and fingers to tear them out here +and there, the rocks being most hard of that mineral spar aforesaid, +which is like a flint, and is altogether as hard or harder, and +besides the veins lie a fathom or two deep in the rocks. But we wanted +all things requisite save only our desires and good will to have +performed more if it had pleased God. To be short, when both our +companies returned, each of them brought also several sorts of stones +that appeared very fair, but were such as they found loose on the +ground, and were for the most part but coloured, and had not any gold +fixed in them. Yet such as had no judgment or experience kept all that +glistered, and would not be persuaded but it was rich because of the +lustre; and brought of those, and of marcasite withal, from Trinidad, +and have delivered of those stones to be tried in many places, and +have thereby bred an opinion that all the rest is of the same. Yet +some of these stones I shewed afterward to a Spaniard of the Caracas, +who told me that it was El Madre del Oro, that is, the mother of gold, +and that the mine was farther in the ground. + +But it shall be found a weak policy in me, either to betray myself or +my country with imaginations; neither am I so far in love with that +lodging, watching, care, peril, diseases, ill savours, bad fare, and +many other mischiefs that accompany these voyages, as to woo myself +again into any of them, were I not assured that the sun covereth not +so much riches in any part of the earth. Captain Whiddon, and our +chirurgeon, Nicholas Millechamp, brought me a kind of stones like +sapphires; what they may prove I know not. I shewed them to some of +the Orenoqueponi, and they promised to bring me to a mountain that had +of them very large pieces growing diamond-wise; whether it be crystal +of the mountain, Bristol diamond, or sapphire, I do not yet know, but +I hope the best; sure I am that the place is as likely as those from +whence all the rich stones are brought, and in the same height or very +near. On the left hand of this river Caroli are seated those nations +which I called Iwarawaqueri before remembered, which are enemies to +the Epuremei; and on the head of it, adjoining to the great lake +Cassipa, are situated those other nations which also resist Inga, and +the Epuremei, called Cassipagotos, Eparegotos, and Arawagotos. I +farther understood that this lake of Cassipa is so large, as it is +above one day's journey for one of their canoas, to cross, which may +be some forty miles; and that thereinto fall divers rivers, and that +great store of grains of gold are found in the summer time when the +lake falleth by the banks, in those branches. + +There is also another goodly river beyond Caroli which is called Arui, +which also runneth through the lake Cassipa, and falleth into Orenoque +farther west, making all that land between Caroli and Arui an island; +which is likewise a most beautiful country. Next unto Arui there are +two rivers Atoica and Caura, and on that branch which is called Caura +are a nation of people whose heads appear not above their shoulders; +which though it may be thought a mere fable, yet for mine own part I +am resolved it is true, because every child in the provinces of +Aromaia and Canuri affirm the same. They are called Ewaipanoma; they +are reported to have their eyes in their shoulders, and their mouths +in the middle of their breasts, and that a long train of hair groweth +backward between their shoulders. The son of Topiawari, which I +brought with me into England, told me that they were the most mighty +men of all the land, and use bows, arrows, and clubs thrice as big as +any of Guiana, or of the Orenoqueponi; and that one of the +Iwarawaqueri took a prisoner of them the year before our arrival +there, and brought him into the borders of Aromaia, his father's +country. And farther, when I seemed to doubt of it, he told me that it +was no wonder among them; but that they were as great a nation and as +common as any other in all the provinces, and had of late years slain +many hundreds of his father's people, and of other nations their +neighbours. But it was not my chance to hear of them till I was come +away; and if I had but spoken one word of it while I was there I might +have brought one of them with me to put the matter out of doubt. Such +a nation was written of by Mandeville, whose reports were holden for +fables many years; and yet since the East Indies were discovered, we +find his relations true of such things as heretofore were held +incredible (Mandeville, or the author who assumed this name, placed +his headless men in the East Indian Archipelago, the fable is borrowed +from older writers, Herodotus &c). Whether it be true or no, the +matter is not great, neither can there be any profit in the +imagination; for mine own part I saw them not, but I am resolved that +so many people did not all combine or forethink to make the report. + +When I came to Cumana in the West Indies afterwards by chance I spake +with a Spaniard dwelling not far from thence, a man of great travel. +And after he knew that I had been in Guiana, and so far directly west +as Caroli, the first question he asked me was, whether I had seen any +of the Ewaipanoma, which are those without heads. Who being esteemed a +most honest man of his word, and in all things else, told me that he +had seen many of them; I may not name him, because it may be for his +disadvantage, but he is well known to Monsieur Moucheron's son of +London, and to Peter Moucheron, merchant, of the Flemish ship that was +there in trade; who also heard, what he avowed to be true, of those +people. + +The fourth river to the west of Caroli is Casnero: which falleth into +the Orenoque on this side of Amapaia. And that river is greater than +Danubius, or any of Europe: it riseth on the south of Guiana from the +mountains which divide Guiana from Amazons, and I think it to be +navigable many hundred miles. But we had no time, means, nor season of +the year, to search those rivers, for the causes aforesaid, the winter +being come upon us; although the winter and summer as touching cold +and heat differ not, neither do the trees ever sensibly lose their +leaves, but have always fruit either ripe or green, and most of them +both blossoms, leaves, ripe fruit, and green, at one time: but their +winter only consisteth of terrible rains, and overflowing of the +rivers, with many great storms and gusts, thunder and lightnings, of +which we had our fill ere we returned. + +On the north side, the first river that falleth into the Orenoque is +Cari. Beyond it, on the same side is the river of Limo. Between these +two is a great nation of Cannibals, and their chief town beareth the +name of the river, and is called Acamacari. At this town is a +continual market of women for three or four hatchets apiece; they are +bought by the Arwacas, and by them sold into the West Indies. To the +west of Limo is the river Pao, beyond it Caturi, beyond that Voari, +and Capuri (the Apure river), which falleth out of the great river of +Meta, by which Berreo descended from Nuevo Reyno de Granada. To the +westward of Capuri is the province of Amapaia, where Berreo wintered +and had so many of his people poisoned with the tawny water of the +marshes of the Anebas. Above Amapaia, toward Nuevo Reyno, fall in +Meto, Pato and Cassanar. To the west of those, towards the provinces +of the Ashaguas and Catetios, are the rivers of Beta, Dawney, and +Ubarro; and toward the frontier of Peru are the provinces of +Thomebamba, and Caxamalca. Adjoining to Quito in the north side of +Peru are the rivers of Guiacar and Goauar; and on the other side of +the said mountains the river of Papamene which descendeth into Maranon +or Amazons, passing through the province Motilones, where Don Pedro de +Orsua, who was slain by the traitor Aguirre before rehearsed, built +his brigandines, when he sought Guiana by the way of Amazons. + +Between Dawney and Beta lieth a famous island in Orenoque (now called +Baraquan, for above Meta it is not known by the name of Orenoque) +which is called Athule (cataract of Ature); beyond which ships of +burden cannot pass by reason of a most forcible overfall, and current +of water; but in the eddy all smaller vessels may be drawn even to +Peru itself. But to speak of more of these rivers without the +description were but tedious, and therefore I will leave the rest to +the description. This river of Orenoque is navigable for ships little +less than 1,000 miles, and for lesser vessels near 2,000. By it, as +aforesaid, Peru, Nuevo Reyno and Popayan may be invaded: it also +leadeth to the great empire of Inga, and to the provinces of Amapaia +and Anebas, which abound in gold. His branches of Casnero, Manta, +Caura descend from the middle land and valley which lieth between the +easter province of Peru and Guiana; and it falls into the sea between +Maranon and Trinidad in two degrees and a half. All of which your +honours shall better perceive in the general description of Guiana, +Peru, Nuevo Reyno, the kingdom of Popayan, and Rodas, with the +province of Venezuela, to the bay of Uraba, behind Cartagena, +westward, and to Amazons southward. While we lay at anchor on the +coast of Canuri, and had taken knowledge of all the nations upon the +head and branches of this river, and had found out so many several +people, which were enemies to the Epuremei and the new conquerors, I +thought it time lost to linger any longer in that place, especially +for that the fury of Orenoque began daily to threaten us with dangers +in our return. For no half day passed but the river began to rage and +overflow very fearfully, and the rains came down in terrible showers, +and gusts in great abundance; and withal our men began to cry out for +want of shift, for no man had place to bestow any other apparel than +that which he ware on his back, and that was throughly washed on his +body for the most part ten times in one day; and we had now been well- +near a month every day passing to the westward farther and farther +from our ships. We therefore turned towards the east, and spent the +rest of the time in discovering the river towards the sea, which we +had not viewed, and which was most material. + +The next day following we left the mouth of Caroli, and arrived again +at the port of Morequito where we were before; for passing down the +stream we went without labour, and against the wind, little less than +a hundred miles a day. As soon as I came to anchor, I sent away one +for old Topiawari, with whom I much desired to have further +conference, and also to deal with him for some one of his country to +bring with us into England, as well to learn the language, as to +confer withal by the way, the time being now spent of any longer stay +there. Within three hours after my messenger came to him, he arrived +also, and with him such a rabble of all sorts of people, and every one +loaden with somewhat, as if it had been a great market or fair in +England; and our hungry companies clustered thick and threefold among +their baskets, every one laying hand on what he liked. After he had +rested awhile in my tent, I shut out all but ourselves and my +interpreter, and told him that I knew that both the Epuremei and the +Spaniards were enemies to him, his country and nations: that the one +had conquered Guiana already, and the other sought to regain the same +from them both; and therefore I desired him to instruct me what he +could, both of the passage into the golden parts of Guiana, and to the +civil towns and apparelled people of Inga. He gave me an answer to +this effect: first, that he could not perceive that I meant to go +onward towards the city of Manoa, for neither the time of the year +served, neither could he perceive any sufficient numbers for such an +enterprise. And if I did, I was sure with all my company to be buried +there, for the emperor was of that strength, as that many times so +many men more were too few. Besides, he gave me this good counsel and +advised me to hold it in mind (as for himself, he knew he could not +live till my return), that I should not offer by any means hereafter +to invade the strong parts of Guiana without the help of all those +nations which were also their enemies; for that it was impossible +without those, either to be conducted, to be victualled, or to have +aught carried with us, our people not being able to endure the march +in so great heat and travail, unless the borderers gave them help, to +cart with them both their meat and furniture. For he remembered that +in the plains of Macureguarai three hundred Spaniards were overthrown, +who were tired out, and had none of the borderers to their friends; +but meeting their enemies as they passed the frontier, were environed +on all sides, and the people setting the long dry grass on fire, +smothered them, so as they had no breath to fight, nor could discern +their enemies for the great smoke. He told me further that four days' +journey from his town was Macureguarai, and that those were the next +and nearest of the subjects of Inga, and of the Epuremei, and the +first town of apparelled and rich people; and that all those plates of +gold which were scattered among the borderers and carried to other +nations far and near, came from the said Macureguarai and were there +made, but that those of the land within were far finer, and were +fashioned after the images of men, beasts, birds, and fishes. I asked +him whether he thought that those companies that I had there with me +were sufficient to take that town or no; he told me that he thought +they were. I then asked him whether he would assist me with guides, +and some companies of his people to join with us; he answered that he +would go himself with all the borderers, if the rivers did remain +fordable, upon this condition, that I would leave with him till my +return again fifty soldiers, which he undertook to victual. I answered +that I had not above fifty good men in all there; the rest were +labourers and rowers, and that I had no provision to leave with them +of powder, shot, apparel, or aught else, and that without those things +necessary for their defence, they should be in danger of the Spaniards +in my absence, who I knew would use the same measures towards mine +that I offered them at Trinidad. And although upon the motion Captain +Caulfield, Captain Greenvile, my nephew John Gilbert and divers others +were desirous to stay, yet I was resolved that they must needs have +perished. For Berreo expected daily a supply out of Spain, and looked +also hourly for his son to come down from Nuevo Reyno de Granada, with +many horse and foot, and had also in Valencia, in the Caracas, two +hundred horse ready to march; and I could not have spared above forty, +and had not any store at all of powder, lead, or match to have left +with them, nor any other provision, either spade, pickaxe, or aught +else to have fortified withal. + +When I had given him reason that I could not at this time leave him +such a company, he then desired me to forbear him and his country for +that time; for he assured me that I should be no sooner three days +from the coast but those Epuremei would invade him, and destroy all +the remain of his people and friends, if he should any way either +guide us or assist us against them. He further alleged that the +Spaniards sought his death; and as they had already murdered his +nephew Morequito, lord of that province, so they had him seventeen +days in a chain before he was king of the country, and led him like a +dog from place to place until he had paid an hundred plates of gold +and divers chains of spleen-stones for his ransom. And now, since he +became owner of that province, that they had many times laid wait to +take him, and that they would be now more vehement when they should +understand of his conference with the English. /And because/, said he, +/they would the better displant me, if they cannot lay hands on me, +they have gotten a nephew of mine called Eparacano, whom they have +christened Don Juan, and his son Don Pedro, whom they have also +apparelled and armed, by whom they seek to make a party against me in +mine own country. He also hath taken to wife one Louiana, of a strong +family, which are borderers and neighbours; and myself now being old +and in the hands of death am not able to travel nor to shift as when I +was of younger years./ He therefore prayed us to defer it till the +next year, when he would undertake to draw in all the borderers to +serve us, and then, also, it would be more seasonable to travel; for +at this time of the year we should not be able to pass any river, the +waters were and would be so grown ere our return. + +He farther told me that I could not desire so much to invade +Macureguarai and the rest of Guiana but that the borderers would be +more vehement than I. For he yielded for a chief cause that in the +wars with the Epuremei they were spoiled of their women, and that +their wives and daughters were taken from them; so as for their own +parts they desired nothing of the gold or treasure for their labours, +but only to recover women from the Epuremei. For he farther complained +very sadly, as it had been a matter of great consequence, that whereas +they were wont to have ten or twelve wives, they were now enforced to +content themselves with three or four, and that the lords of the +Epuremei had fifty or a hundred. And in truth they war more for women +than either for gold or dominion. For the lords of countries desire +many children of their own bodies to increase their races and +kindreds, for in those consist their greatest trust and strength. +Divers of his followers afterwards desired me to make haste again, +that they might sack the Epuremei, and I asked them, of what? They +answered, Of their women for us, and their gold for you. For the hope +of those many of women they more desire the war than either for gold +or for the recovery of their ancient territories. For what between the +subjects of Inga and the Spaniards, those frontiers are grown thin of +people; and also great numbers are fled to other nations farther off +for fear of the Spaniards. + +After I received this answer of the old man, we fell into +consideration whether it had been of better advice to have entered +Macureguarai, and to have begun a war upon Inga at this time, yea, or +no, if the time of the year and all things else had sorted. For mine +own part, as we were not able to march it for the rivers, neither had +any such strength as was requisite, and durst not abide the coming of +the winter, or to tarry any longer from our ships, I thought it were +evil counsel to have attempted it at that time, although the desire +for gold will answer many objections. But it would have been, in mine +opinion, an utter overthrow to the enterprise, if the same should be +hereafter by her Majesty attempted. For then, whereas now they have +heard we were enemies to the Spaniards and were sent by her Majesty to +relieve them, they would as good cheap have joined with the Spaniards +at our return, as to have yielded unto us, when they had proved that +we came both for one errand, and that both sought but to sack and +spoil them. But as yet our desire gold, or our purpose of invasion, is +not known to them of the empire. And it is likely that if her Majesty +undertake the enterprise they will rather submit themselves to her +obedience than to the Spaniards, of whose cruelty both themselves and +the borderers have already tasted. And therefore, till I had known her +Majesty's pleasure, I would rather have lost the sack of one or two +towns, although they might have been very profitable, than to have +defaced or endangered the future hope of so many millions, and the +great good and rich trade which England may be possessed of thereby. I +am assured now that they will all die, even to the last man, against +the Spaniards in hope of our succour and return. Whereas, otherwise, +if I had either laid hands on the borderers or ransomed the lords, as +Berreo did, or invaded the subjects of Inga, I know all had been lost +for hereafter. + +After that I had resolved Topiawari, lord of Aromaia, that I could not +at this time leave with him the companies he desired, and that I was +contented to forbear the enterprise against the Epuremei till the next +year, he freely gave me his only son to take with me into England; and +hoped that though he himself had but a short time to live, yet that by +our means his son should be established after his death. And I left +with him one Francis Sparrow, a servant of Captain Gifford, who was +desirous to tarry, and could describe a country with his pen, and a +boy of mine called Hugh Goodwin, to learn the language. I after asked +the manner how the Epuremei wrought those plates of gold, and how they +could melt it out of the stone. He told me that the most of the gold +which they made in plates and images was not severed from the stone, +but that on the lake of Manoa, and in a multitude of other rivers, +they gathered it in grains of perfect gold and in pieces as big as +small stones, and they put it to a part of copper, otherwise they +could not work it; and that they used a great earthen pot with holes +round about it, and when they had mingled the gold and copper together +they fastened canes to the holes, and so with the breath of men they +increased the fire till the metal ran, and then they cast it into +moulds of stone and clay, and so make those plates and images. I have +sent your honours of two sorts such as I could by chance recover, more +to shew the manner of them than for the value. For I did not in any +sort make my desire of gold known, because I had neither time nor +power to have a great quantity. I gave among them many more pieces of +gold than I received, of the new money of twenty shillings with her +Majesty's picture, to wear, with promise that they would become her +servants thenceforth. + +I have also sent your honours of the ore, whereof I know some is as +rich as the earth yieldeth any, of which I know there is sufficient, +if nothing else were to be hoped for. But besides that we were not +able to tarry and search the hills, so we had neither pioneers, bars, +sledges, nor wedges of iron to break the ground, without which there +is no working in mines. But we saw all the hills with stones of the +colour of gold and silver, and we tried them to be no marcasite, and +therefore such as the Spaniards call El madre del oro or "the mother +of gold," which is an undoubted assurance of the general abundance; +and myself saw the outside of many mines of the spar, which I know to +be the same that all covet in this world, and of those more than I +will speak of. + +Having learned what I could in Canuri and Aromaia, and received a +faithful promise of the principallest of those provinces to become +servants to her Majesty, and to resist the Spaniards if they made any +attempt in our absence, and that they would draw in the nations about +the lake of Cassipa and those of Iwarawaqueri, I then parted from old +Topiawari, and received his son for a pledge between us, and left with +him two of ours as aforesaid. To Francis Sparrow I gave instructions +to travel to Macureguarai with such merchandises as I left with them, +thereby to learn the place, and if it were possible, to go on to the +great city of Manoa. Which being done, we weighed anchor and coasted +the river on Guiana side, because we came upon the north side, by the +lawns of the Saima and Wikiri. + +There came with us from Aromaia a cacique called Putijma, that +commanded the province of Warapana, which Putijma slew the nine +Spaniards upon Caroli before spoken of; who desired us to rest in the +port of his country, promising to bring us unto a mountain adjoining +to his town that had stones of the colour of gold, which he performed. +And after we had rested there one night I went myself in the morning +with most of the gentlemen of my company over-land towards the said +mountain, marching by a river's side called Mana, leaving on the right +hand a town called Tuteritona, standing in the province of Tarracoa, +of which Wariaaremagoto is principal. Beyond it lieth another town +towards the south, in the valley of Amariocapana, which beareth the +name of the said valley; whose plains stretch themselves some sixty +miles in length, east and west, as fair ground and as beautiful fields +as any man hath ever seen, with divers copses scattered here and there +by the river's side, and all as full of deer as any forest or park in +England, and in every lake and river the like abundance of fish and +fowl; of which Irraparragota is lord. + +From the river of Mana we crossed another river in the said beautiful +valley called Oiana, and rested ourselves by a clear lake which lay in +the middle of the said Oiana; and one of our guides kindling us fire +with two sticks, we stayed awhile to dry our shirts, which with the +heat hung very wet and heavy on our shoulders. Afterwards we sought +the ford to pass over towards the mountain called Iconuri, where +Putijma foretold us of the mine. In this lake we saw one of the great +fishes, as big as a wine pipe, which they call manati, being most +excellent and wholesome meat. But after I perceived that to pass the +said river would require half-a-day's march more, I was not able +myself to endure it, and therefore I sent Captain Keymis with six shot +to go on, and gave him order not to return to the port of Putijma, +which is called Chiparepare, but to take leisure, and to march down +the said valley as far as a river called Cumaca, where I promised to +meet him again, Putijma himself promising also to be his guide. And as +they marched, they left the towns of Emperapana and Capurepana on the +right hand, and marched from Putijma's house, down the said valley of +Amariocapana; and we returning the same day to the river's side, saw +by the way many rocks like unto gold ore, and on the left hand a round +mountain which consisted of mineral stone. + +From hence we rowed down the stream, coasting the province of Parino. +As for the branches of rivers which I overpass in this discourse, +those shall be better expressed in the description, with the mountains +of Aio, Ara, and the rest, which are situate in the provinces of +Parino and Carricurrina. When we were come as far down as the land +called Ariacoa, where Orenoque divideth itself into three great +branches, each of them being most goodly rivers, I sent away Captain +Henry Thyn, and Captain Greenvile with the galley, the nearest way, +and took with me Captain Gifford, Captain Caulfield, Edward Porter, +and Captain Eynos with mine own barge and the two wherries, and went +down that branch of Orenoque which is called Cararoopana, which +leadeth towards Emeria, the province of Carapana, and towards the east +sea, as well to find out Captain Keymis, whom I had sent overland, as +also to acquaint myself with Carapana, who is one of the greatest of +all the lords of the Orenoqueponi. And when I came to the river of +Cumaca, to which Putijma promised to conduct Captain Keymis, I left +Captain Eynos and Master Porter in the said river to expect his +coming, and the rest of us rowed down the stream towards Emeria. + +In this branch called Cararoopana were also many goodly islands, some +of six miles long, some of ten, and some of twenty. When it grew +towards sunset, we entered a branch of a river that fell into +Orenoque, called Winicapora; where I was informed of the mountain of +crystal, to which in truth for the length of the way, and the evil +season of the year, I was not able to march, nor abide any longer upon +the journey. We saw it afar off; and it appeared like a white church- +tower of an exceeding height. There falleth over it a mighty river +which toucheth no part of the side of the mountain, but rusheth over +the top of it, and falleth to the ground with so terrible a noise and +clamour, as if a thousand great bells were knocked one against +another. I think there is not in the world so strange an overfall, nor +so wonderful to behold. Berreo told me that there were diamonds and +other precious stones on it, and that they shined very far off; but +what it hath I know not, neither durst he or any of his men ascend to +the top of the said mountain, those people adjoining being his +enemies, as they were, and the way to it so impassable. + +Upon this river of Winicapora we rested a while, and from thence +marched into the country to a town called after the name of the river, +whereof the captain was one Timitwara, who also offered to conduct me +to the top of the said mountain called Wacarima. But when we came in +first to the house of the said Timitwara, being upon one of their said +feast days, we found them all as drunk as beggars, and the pots +walking from one to another without rest. We that were weary and hot +with marching were glad of the plenty, though a small quantity +satisfied us, their drink being very strong and heady, and so rested +ourselves awhile. After we had fed, we drew ourselves back to our +boats upon the river, and there came to us all the lords of the +country, with all such kind of victual as the place yielded, and with +their delicate wine of pinas, and with abundance of hens and other +provisions, and of those stones which we call spleen-stones. We +understood by these chieftains of Winicapora that their lord, +Carapana, was departed from Emeria, which was now in sight, and that +he was fled to Cairamo, adjoining to the mountains of Guiana, over the +valley called Amariocapana, being persuaded by those ten Spaniards +which lay at his house that we would destroy him and his country. But +after these caciques of Winicapora and Saporatona his followers +perceived our purpose, and saw that we came as enemies to the +Spaniards only, and had not so much as harmed any of those nations, +no, though we found them to be of the Spaniards' own servants, they +assured us that Carapana would be as ready to serve us as any of the +lords of the provinces which we had passed; and that he durst do no +other till this day but entertain the Spaniards, his country lying so +directly in their way, and next of all other to any entrance that +should be made in Guiana on that side. And they further assured us, +that it was not for fear of our coming that he was removed, but to be +acquitted of the Spaniards or any other that should come hereafter. +For the province of Cairoma is situate at the mountain foot, which +divideth the plains of Guiana from the countries of the Orenoqueponi; +by means whereof if any should come in our absence into his towns, he +would slip over the mountains into the plains of Guiana among the +Epuremei, where the Spaniards durst not follow him without great +force. But in mine opinion, or rather I assure myself, that Carapana +being a notable wise and subtle fellow, a man of one hundred years of +age and therefore of great experience, is removed to look on, and if +he find that we return strong he will be ours; if not, he will excuse +his departure to the Spaniards, and say it was for fear of our coming. + +We therefore thought it bootless to row so far down the stream, or to +seek any farther of this old fox; and therefore from the river of +Waricapana, which lieth at the entrance of Emeria, we returned again, +and left to the eastward those four rivers which fall from the +mountains of Emeria into Orenoque, which are Waracayari, Coirama, +Akaniri, and Iparoma. Below those four are also these branches and +mouths of Orenoque, which fall into the east sea, whereof the first is +Araturi, the next Amacura, the third Barima, the fourth Wana, the +fifth Morooca, the sixth Paroma, the last Wijmi. Beyond them there +fall out of the land between Orenoque and Amazons fourteen rivers, +which I forbear to name, inhabited by the Arwacas and Cannibals. + +It is now time to return towards the north, and we found it a +wearisome way back from the borders of Emeria, to recover up again to +the head of the river Carerupana, by which we descended, and where we +parted from the galley, which I directed to take the next way to the +port of Toparimaca, by which we entered first. + +All the night it was stormy and dark, and full of thunder and great +showers, so as we were driven to keep close by the banks in our small +boats, being all heartily afraid both of the billow and terrible +current of the river. By the next morning we recovered the mouth of +the river of Cumaca, where we left Captain Eynos and Edward Porter to +attend the coming of Captain Keymis overland; but when we entered the +same, they had heard no news of his arrival, which bred in us a great +doubt what might become of him. I rowed up a league or two farther +into the river, shooting off pieces all the way, that he might know of +our being there; and the next morning we heard them answer us also +with a piece. We took them aboard us, and took our leave of Putijma, +their guide, who of all others most lamented our departure, and +offered to send his son with us into England, if we could have stayed +till he had sent back to his town. But our hearts were cold to behold +the great rage and increase of Orenoque, and therefore departed, and +turned toward the west, till we had recovered the parting of the three +branches aforesaid, that we might put down the stream after the +galley. + +The next day we landed on the island of Assapano, which divideth the +river from that branch by which we sent down to Emeria, and there +feasted ourselves with that beast which is called armadillo, presented +unto us before at Winicapora. And the day following, we recovered the +galley at anchor at the port of Toparimaca, and the same evening +departed with very foul weather, and terrible thunder and showers, for +the winter was come on very far. The best was, we went no less than +100 miles a day down the river; but by the way we entered it was +impossible to return, for that the river of Amana, being in the bottom +of the bay of Guanipa, cannot be sailed back by any means, both the +breeze and current of the sea were so forcible. And therefore we +followed a branch of Orenoque called Capuri, which entered into the +sea eastward of our ships, to the end we might bear with them before +the wind; and it was not without need, for we had by that way as much +to cross of the main sea, after we came to the river's mouth, as +between Gravelin and Dover, in such boats as your honour hath heard. + +To speak of what passed homeward were tedious, either to describe or +name any of the rivers, islands, or villages of the Tivitivas, which +dwell on trees; we will leave all those to the general map. And to be +short, when we were arrived at the sea-side, then grew our greatest +doubt, and the bitterest of all our journey forepassed; for I protest +before God, that we were in a most desperate estate. For the same +night which we anchored in the mouth of the river of Capuri, where it +falleth into the sea, there arose a mighty storm, and the river's +mouth was at least a league broad, so as we ran before night close +under the land with our small boats, and brought the galley as near as +we could. But she had as much ado to live as could be, and there +wanted little of her sinking, and all those in her; for mine own part, +I confess I was very doubtful which way to take, either to go over in +the pestered (crowded) galley, there being but six foot water over the +sands for two leagues together, and that also in the channel, and she +drew five; or to adventure in so great a billow, and in so doubtful +weather, to cross the seas in my barge. The longer we tarried the +worse it was, and therefore I took Captain Gifford, Captain Caulfield, +and my cousin Greenvile into my barge; and after it cleared up about +midnight we put ourselves to God's keeping, and thrust out into the +sea, leaving the galley at anchor, who durst not adventure but by +daylight. And so, being all very sober and melancholy, one faintly +cheering another to shew courage, it pleased God that the next day +about nine o'clock, we descried the island of Trinidad; and steering +for the nearest part of it, we kept the shore till we came to +Curiapan, where we found our ships at anchor, than which there was +never to us a more joyful sight. + +Now that it hath pleased God to send us safe to our ships, it is time +to leave Guiana to the sun, whom they worship, and steer away towards +the north. I will, therefore, in a few words finish the discovery +thereof. Of the several nations which we found upon this discovery I +will once again make repetition, and how they are affected. At our +first entrance into Amana, which is one of the outlets of Orenoque, we +left on the right hand of us in the bottom of the bay, lying directly +against Trinidad, a nation of inhuman Cannibals, which inhabit the +rivers of Guanipa and Berbeese. In the same bay there is also a third +river, which is called Areo, which riseth on Paria side towards +Cumana, and that river is inhabited with the Wikiri, whose chief town +upon the said river is Sayma. In this bay there are no more rivers but +these three before rehearsed and the four branches of Amana, all which +in the winter thrust so great abundance of water into the sea, as the +same is taken up fresh two or three leagues from the land. In the +passages towards Guiana, that is, in all those lands which the eight +branches of Orenoque fashion into islands, there are but one sort of +people, called Tivitivas, but of two castes, as they term them, the +one called Ciawani, the other Waraweeti, and those war one with +another. + +On the hithermost part of Orenoque, as at Toparimaca and Winicapora, +those are of a nation called Nepoios, and are the followers of +Carapana, lord of Emeria. Between Winicapora and the port of +Morequito, which standeth in Aromaia, and all those in the valley of +Amariocapana are called Orenoqueponi, and did obey Morequito and are +now followers of Topiawari. Upon the river of Caroli are the Canuri, +which are governed by a woman who is inheritrix of that province; who +came far off to see our nation, and asked me divers questions of her +Majesty, being much delighted with the discourse of her Majesty's +greatness, and wondering at such reports as we truly made of her +Highness' many virtues. And upon the head of Caroli and on the lake of +Cassipa are the three strong nations of the Cassipagotos. Right south +into the land are the Capurepani and Emparepani, and beyond those, +adjoining to Macureguarai, the first city of Inga, are the +Iwarawakeri. All these are professed enemies to the Spaniards, and to +the rich Epuremei also. To the west of Caroli are divers nations of +Cannibals and of those Ewaipanoma without heads. Directly west are the +Amapaias and Anebas, which are also marvellous rich in gold. The rest +towards Peru we will omit. On the north of Orenoque, between it and +the West Indies, are the Wikiri, Saymi, and the rest before spoken of, +all mortal enemies to the Spaniards. On the south side of the main +mouth of Orenoque are the Arwacas; and beyond them, the Cannibals; and +to the south of them, the Amazons. + +To make mention of the several beasts, birds, fishes, fruits, flowers, +gums, sweet woods, and of their several religions and customs, would +for the first require as many volumes as those of Gesnerus, and for +the next another bundle of Decades. The religion of the Epuremei is +the same which the Ingas, emperors of Peru, used, which may be read in +Cieza and other Spanish stories; how they believe the immortality of +the soul, worship the sun, and bury with them alive their best beloved +wives and treasure, as they likewise do in Pegu in the East Indies, +and other places. The Orenoqueponi bury not their wives with them, but +their jewels, hoping to enjoy them again. The Arwacas dry the bones of +their lords, and their wives and friends drink them in powder. In the +graves of the Peruvians the Spaniards found their greatest abundance +of treasure. The like, also, is to be found among these people in +every province. They have all many wives, and the lords five-fold to +the common sort. Their wives never eat with their husbands, nor among +the men, but serve their husbands at meals and afterwards feed by +themselves. Those that are past their younger years make all their +bread and drink, and work their cotton-beds, and do all else of +service and labour; for the men do nothing but hunt, fish, play, and +drink, when they are out of the wars. + +I will enter no further into discourse of their manners, laws, and +customs. And because I have not myself seen the cities of Inga I +cannot avow on my credit what I have heard, although it be very likely +that the emperor Inga hath built and erected as magnificent palaces in +Guiana as his ancestors did in Peru; which were for their riches and +rareness most marvellous, and exceeding all in Europe, and, I think, +of the world, China excepted, which also the Spaniards, which I had, +assured me to be true, as also the nations of the borderers, who, +being but savages to those of the inland, do cause much treasure to be +buried with them. For I was informed of one of the caciques of the +valley of Amariocapana which had buried with him a little before our +arrival a chair of gold most curiously wrought, which was made either +in Macureguarai adjoining or in Manoa. But if we should have grieved +them in their religion at the first, before they had been taught +better, and have digged up their graves, we had lost them all. And +therefore I held my first resolution, that her Majesty should either +accept or refuse the enterprise ere anything should be done that might +in any sort hinder the same. And if Peru had so many heaps of gold, +whereof those Ingas were princes, and that they delighted so much +therein, no doubt but this which now liveth and reigneth in Manoa hath +the same humour, and, I am assured, hath more abundance of gold within +his territory than all Peru and the West Indies. + +For the rest, which myself have seen, I will promise these things that +follow, which I know to be true. Those that are desirous to discover +and to see many nations may be satisfied within this river, which +bringeth forth so many arms and branches leading to several countries +and provinces, above 2,000 miles east and west and 800 miles south and +north, and of these the most either rich in gold or in other +merchandises. The common soldier shall here fight for gold, and pay +himself, instead of pence, with plates of half-a-foot broad, whereas +he breaketh his bones in other wars for provant and penury. Those +commanders and chieftains that shoot at honour and abundance shall +find there more rich and beautiful cities, more temples adorned with +golden images, more sepulchres filled with treasure, than either +Cortes found in Mexico or Pizarro in Peru. And the shining glory of +this conquest will eclipse all those so far-extended beams of the +Spanish nation. There is no country which yieldeth more pleasure to +the inhabitants, either for those common delights of hunting, hawking, +fishing, fowling, and the rest, than Guiana doth; it hath so many +plains, clear rivers, and abundance of pheasants, partridges, quails, +rails, cranes, herons, and all other fowl; deer of all sorts, porks, +hares, lions, tigers, leopards, and divers other sorts of beasts, +either for chase or food. It hath a kind of beast called cama or anta +(tapir), as big as an English beef, and in great plenty. To speak of +the several sorts of every kind I fear would be troublesome to the +reader, and therefore I will omit them, and conclude that both for +health, good air, pleasure, and riches, I am resolved it cannot be +equalled by any region either in the east or west. Moreover the +country is so healthful, as of an hundred persons and more, which lay +without shift most sluttishly, and were every day almost melted with +heat in rowing and marching, and suddenly wet again with great +showers, and did eat of all sorts of corrupt fruits, and made meals of +fresh fish without seasoning, of tortugas, of lagartos or crocodiles, +and of all sorts good and bad, without either order or measure, and +besides lodged in the open air every night, we lost not any one, nor +had one ill-disposed to my knowledge; nor found any calentura or other +of those pestilent diseases which dwell in all hot regions, and so +near the equinoctial line. + +Where there is store of gold it is in effect needless to remember +other commodities for trade. But it hath, towards the south part of +the river, great quantities of brazil-wood, and divers berries that +dye a most perfect crimson and carnation; and for painting, all +France, Italy, or the East Indies yield none such. For the more the +skin is washed, the fairer the colour appeareth, and with which even +those brown and tawny women spot themselves and colour their cheeks. +All places yield abundance of cotton, of silk, of balsamum, and of +those kinds most excellent and never known in Europe, of all sorts of +gums, of Indian pepper; and what else the countries may afford within +the land we know not, neither had we time to abide the trial and +search. The soil besides is so excellent and so full of rivers, as it +will carry sugar, ginger, and all those other commodities which the +West Indies have. + +The navigation is short, for it may be sailed with an ordinary wind in +six weeks, and in the like time back again; and by the way neither +lee-shore, enemies' coast, rocks, nor sands. All which in the voyages +to the West Indies and all other places we are subject unto; as the +channel of Bahama, coming from the West Indies, cannot well be passed +in the winter, and when it is at the best, it is a perilous and a +fearful place; the rest of the Indies for calms and diseases very +troublesome, and the sea about the Bermudas a hellish sea for thunder, +lightning, and storms. + +This very year (1595) there were seventeen sail of Spanish ships lost +in the channel of Bahama, and the great Philip, like to have sunk at +the Bermudas, was put back to St. Juan de Puerto Rico; and so it +falleth out in that navigation every year for the most part. Which in +this voyage are not to be feared; for the time of year to leave +England is best in July, and the summer in Guiana is in October, +November, December, January, February, and March, and then the ships +may depart thence in April, and so return again into England in June. +So as they shall never be subject to winter weather, either coming, +going, or staying there: which, for my part, I take to be one of the +greatest comforts and encouragements that can be thought on, having, +as I have done, tasted in this voyage by the West Indies so many +calms, so much heat, such outrageous gusts, such weather, and contrary +winds. + +To conclude, Guiana is a country that hath yet her maidenhead, never +sacked, turned, nor wrought; the face of the earth hath not been torn, +nor the virtue and salt of the soil spent by manurance. The graves +have not been opened for gold, the mines not broken with sledges, nor +their images pulled down out of their temples. It hath never been +entered by any army of strength, and never conquered or possessed by +any Christian prince. It is besides so defensible, that if two forts +be builded in one of the provinces which I have seen, the flood +setteth in so near the bank, where the channel also lieth, that no +ship can pass up but within a pike's length of the artillery, first of +the one, and afterwards of the other. Which two forts will be a +sufficient guard both to the empire of Inga, and to an hundred other +several kingdoms, lying within the said river, even to the city of +Quito in Peru. + +There is therefore great difference between the easiness of the +conquest of Guiana, and the defence of it being conquered, and the +West or East Indies. Guiana hath but one entrance by the sea, if it +hath that, for any vessels of burden. So as whosoever shall first +possess it, it shall be found unaccessible for any enemy, except he +come in wherries, barges, or canoas, or else in flat-bottomed boats; +and if he do offer to enter it in that manner, the woods are so thick +200 miles together upon the rivers of such entrance, as a mouse cannot +sit in a boat unhit from the bank. By land it is more impossible to +approach; for it hath the strongest situation of any region under the +sun, and it is so environed with impassable mountains on every side, +as it is impossible to victual any company in the passage. Which hath +been well proved by the Spanish nation, who since the conquest of Peru +have never left five years free from attempting this empire, or +discovering some way into it; and yet of three-and-twenty several +gentlemen, knights, and noblemen, there was never any that knew which +way to lead an army by land, or to conduct ships by sea, anything near +the said country. Orellana, of whom the river of Amazons taketh name, +was the first, and Don Antonio de Berreo, whom we displanted, the +last: and I doubt much whether he himself or any of his yet know the +best way into the said empire. It can therefore hardly be regained, if +any strength be formerly set down, but in one or two places, and but +two or three crumsters (Dutch, Kromsteven or Kromster, a vessel with a +bent prow) or galleys built and furnished upon the river within. The +West Indies have many ports, watering places, and landings; and nearer +than 300 miles to Guiana, no man can harbour a ship, except he know +one only place, which is not learned in haste, and which I will +undertake there is not any one of my companies that knoweth, whosoever +hearkened most after it. + +Besides, by keeping one good fort, or building one town of strength, +the whole empire is guarded; and whatsoever companies shall be +afterwards planted within the land, although in twenty several +provinces, those shall be able all to reunite themselves upon any +occasion either by the way of one river, or be able to march by land +without either wood, bog, or mountain. Whereas in the West Indies +there are few towns or provinces that can succour or relieve one the +other by land or sea. By land the countries are either desert, +mountainous, or strong enemies. By sea, if any man invade to the +eastward, those to the west cannot in many months turn against the +breeze and eastern wind. Besides, the Spaniards are therein so +dispersed as they are nowhere strong, but in Nueva Espana only; the +sharp mountains, the thorns, and poisoned prickles, the sandy and deep +ways in the valleys, the smothering heat and air, and want of water in +other places are their only and best defence; which, because those +nations that invade them are not victualled or provided to stay, +neither have any place to friend adjoining, do serve them instead of +good arms and great multitudes. + +The West Indies were first offered her Majesty's grandfather by +Columbus, a stranger, in whom there might be doubt of deceit; and +besides it was then thought incredible that there were such and so +many lands and regions never written of before. This Empire is made +known to her Majesty by her own vassal, and by him that oweth to her +more duty than an ordinary subject; so that it shall ill sort with the +many graces and benefits which I have received to abuse her Highness, +either with fables or imaginations. The country is already discovered, +many nations won to her Majesty's love and obedience, and those +Spaniards which have latest and longest laboured about the conquest, +beaten out, discouraged, and disgraced, which among these nations were +thought invincible. Her Majesty may in this enterprise employ all +those soldiers and gentlemen that are younger brethren, and all +captains and chieftains that want employment, and the charge will be +only the first setting out in victualling and arming them; for after +the first or second year I doubt not but to see in London a +Contractation-House (the whole trade of Spanish America passed through +the Casa de Contratacion at Seville) of more receipt for Guiana than +there is now in Seville for the West Indies. + +And I am resolved that if there were but a small army afoot in Guiana, +marching towards Manoa, the chief city of Inga, he would yield to her +Majesty by composition so many hundred thousand pounds yearly as +should both defend all enemies abroad, and defray all expenses at +home; and that he would besides pay a garrison of three or four +thousand soldiers very royally to defend him against other nations. +For he cannot but know how his predecessors, yea, how his own great +uncles, Guascar and Atabalipa, sons to Guiana-Capac, emperor of Peru, +were, while they contended for the empire, beaten out by the +Spaniards, and that both of late years and ever since the said +conquest, the Spaniards have sought the passages and entry of his +country; and of their cruelties used to the borderers he cannot be +ignorant. In which respects no doubt but he will be brought to tribute +with great gladness; if not, he hath neither shot nor iron weapon in +all his empire, and therefore may easily be conquered. + +And I further remember that Berreo confessed to me and others, which I +protest before the Majesty of God to be true, that there was found +among the prophecies in Peru, at such time as the empire was reduced +to the Spanish obedience, in their chiefest temples, amongst divers +others which foreshadowed the loss of the said empire, that from +Inglatierra those Ingas should be again in time to come restored, and +delivered from the servitude of the said conquerors. And I hope, as we +with these few hands have displanted the first garrison, and driven +them out of the said country, so her Majesty will give order for the +rest, and either defend it, and hold it as tributary, or conquer and +keep it as empress of the same. For whatsoever prince shall possess +it, shall be greatest; and if the king of Spain enjoy it, he will +become unresistible. Her Majesty hereby shall confirm and strengthen +the opinions of all nations as touching her great and princely +actions. And where the south border of Guiana reacheth to the dominion +and empire of the Amazons, those women shall hereby hear the name of a +virgin, which is not only able to defend her own territories and her +neighbours, but also to invade and conquer so great empires and so far +removed. + +To speak more at this time I fear would be but troublesome: I trust in +God, this being true, will suffice, and that he which is King of all +Kings, and Lord of Lords, will put it into her heart which is Lady of +Ladies to possess it. If not, I will judge those men worthy to be +kings thereof, that by her grace and leave will undertake it of +themselves. diff --git a/old/guian10.zip b/old/guian10.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ab65c7d --- /dev/null +++ b/old/guian10.zip |