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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 01:49:12 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 01:49:12 -0700 |
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diff --git a/22409-h/22409-h.htm b/22409-h/22409-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c987490 --- /dev/null +++ b/22409-h/22409-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,13330 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of A Woman Who Went To Alaska, by May Kellogg Sullivan + </title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + h2,h3,h4 { + text-align: center; + clear: both; + } + h1 {text-align: left; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + .tb1 {border-left: 4px solid black; border-right: 4px solid black; + border-top: 4px solid black; border-bottom: 4px solid black;} + .tb2 {border-left: 4px solid black; border-right: 4px solid black; + height: 5em;} + .tb3 {border-left: 4px solid black; border-right: 4px solid black; + border-top: 4px solid black; letter-spacing: 0.5em; height: 5em;} + .nu {text-align: right;} + .wo {text-align: left; padding-left: 1em;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .pagenum { + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + } + + .center {text-align: center;} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center; font-size: small;} + + .figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: + 0; margin-right: 1em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .poem {margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; text-align: left;} + .poem br {display: none;} + .poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + .poem span.i0 {display: block; margin-left: 0em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + .poem span.i2 {display: block; margin-left: 2em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + + .trans1 {border: solid 1px; + margin: 3em 15%; padding: 1em; text-align: left;} + + .zerop {margin-top: 0em; margin-bottom: 0em;} + + .trnhd {text-align: center; font-size: larger; font-weight: bold;} + + img {border: none} + + a:link {text-decoration:none; } + a:visited {text-decoration:none; } + + ul {list-style-type: none;} + li {font-size: 0.9em;} + + + .cpoem {width: 16em; margin: 0 auto;} + .author {text-align: left; margin-left: 65%;} + .firstp {margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + text-indent: -0.5em; + } + + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +Project Gutenberg's A Woman who went to Alaska, by May Kellogg Sullivan + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Woman who went to Alaska + +Author: May Kellogg Sullivan + +Release Date: August 26, 2007 [EBook #22409] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A WOMAN WHO WENT TO ALASKA *** + + + + +Produced by Malcolm Farmer, Stephen Blundell and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Library of Congress) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 267px;"><a name="cover" id="cover"></a> +<a href="images/000.jpg"><img src="images/000t.jpg" width="267" height="400" alt="" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 202px;"><a name="i1" id="i1"></a> +<a href="images/001.jpg"><img src="images/001t.jpg" width="202" height="400" alt="" title="" /></a> +MAY KELLOGG SULLIVAN IN ALASKA DRESS.</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="10" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td class="tb1"><h1 class="zerop">A Woman Who<br />Went ———<br />To Alaska</h1></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tb2"><h2 class="zerop"><small><small>By May Kellogg Sullivan</small></small></h2></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tb3"><small>ILLUSTRATED</small></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tb1"><small>Boston:<br />James H. Earle & Company<br />178 Washington Street</small></td></tr> +</table></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p class="center"><small><i>Copyright, 1902<br /> +By MAY KELLOGG SULLIVAN</i><br /> +<br /> +<i>All Rights Reserved</i></small></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2> + + + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" style="width:60%;" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="CONTENTS"> +<tr><td class="wo" colspan="2"><b><big>Chapter</big></b></td><td class="nu"><b><big>Page</big></b></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">I</td><td class="wo">Under Way</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_9">9</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">II</td><td class="wo">Midnight on a Yukon Steamer</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_19">19</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">III</td><td class="wo">Dawson</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_28">28</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">IV</td><td class="wo">The Rush</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_36">36</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">V</td><td class="wo">At The Arctic Circle</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_48">48</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">VI</td><td class="wo">Companions</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">VII</td><td class="wo">Going to Nome</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_78">78</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">VIII</td><td class="wo">Fresh Danger</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_81">81</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">IX</td><td class="wo">Nome</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_94">94</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">X</td><td class="wo">The Four Sisters</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_109">109</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">XI</td><td class="wo">Life in a Mining Camp</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_131">131</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">XII</td><td class="wo">Bar-Room Disturbances</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_149">149</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">XIII</td><td class="wo">Off For Golovin Bay</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_162">162</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">XIV</td><td class="wo">Life at Golovin</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_184">184</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">XV</td><td class="wo">Winter in the Mission</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_199">199</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">XVI</td><td class="wo">The Retired Sea Captain</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_215">215</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">XVII</td><td class="wo">How the Long Days Passed</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_231">231</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">XVIII</td><td class="wo">Swarming</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_247">247</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">XIX</td><td class="wo">New Quarters</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_261">261</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">XX</td><td class="wo">Christmas in Alaska</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_275">275</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">XXI</td><td class="wo">My First Gold Claims</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_292">292</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">XXII</td><td class="wo">The Little Sick Child</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_311">311</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">XXIII</td><td class="wo">Lights and Shadows of the Mining Camp</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_325">325</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">XXIV</td><td class="wo">An Unpleasant Adventure</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_340">340</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">XXV</td><td class="wo">Stones and Dynamite</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_354">354</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">XXVI</td><td class="wo">Good-bye to Golovin Bay</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_374">374</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="nu">XXVII</td><td class="wo">Going Outside</td><td class="nu"><a href="#Page_379">379</a></td></tr> +</table></div> + + + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<div class="trans1"><p class="trnhd">Transcriber's Note</p> +<p>Obvious printer errors have been corrected. All other +inconsistencies remain as printed.</p> + +<p>A list of illustrations, though not present in the original, has been provided below:</p> + +<ul> +<li><a href="#cover">COVER</a></li> +<li><a href="#i1">MAY KELLOGG SULLIVAN IN ALASKA DRESS.</a></li> +<li><a href="#i9">DAWSON, Y. T.</a></li> +<li><a href="#i12">CITY HALL AT SKAGWAY.</a></li> +<li><a href="#i15">PORCUPINE CANYON, WHITE PASS.</a></li> +<li><a href="#i18">MILES CANYON.</a></li> +<li><a href="#i25">UPPER YUKON STEAMER.</a></li> +<li><a href="#i28">FIVE FINGER RAPIDS.</a></li> +<li><a href="#i37">GOING TO DAWSON IN WINTER.</a></li> +<li><a href="#i46">A KLONDYKE CLAIM.</a></li> +<li><a href="#i51">EAGLE CITY, ON THE YUKON, IN 1899.</a></li> +<li><a href="#i56">YUKON STEAMER "HANNAH."</a></li> +<li><a href="#i61">FELLOW TRAVELERS.</a></li> +<li><a href="#i74">ESKIMOS.</a></li> +<li><a href="#i83">UNALASKA.</a></li> +<li><a href="#i92">STEAMSHIP ST. PAUL.</a></li> +<li><a href="#i109">NOME.</a></li> +<li><a href="#i118">LIFE AT NOME.</a></li> +<li><a href="#i151">CLAIM NUMBER NINE, ANVIL CREEK.</a></li> +<li><a href="#i184">CLAIM NUMBER FOUR, ANVIL CREEK, NOME.</a></li> +<li><a href="#i193">MAP OF ALASKA.</a></li> +<li><a href="#i267">ESKIMO DOGS.</a></li> +<li><a href="#i284">WINTER PROSPECTING.</a></li> +<li><a href="#i293">AT CHINIK. THE MISSION.</a></li> +<li><a href="#i398">CLAIM ON BONANZA CREEK.</a></li> +<li><a href="#i407">ON BONANZA CREEK.</a></li> +<li><a href="#i412">SKAGWAY RIVER, FROM THE TRAIN.</a></li> +</ul> + + +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE</h2> + + +<p>This unpretentious little book is the outcome of my own +experiences and adventures in Alaska. Two trips, covering +a period of eighteen months and a distance of over +twelve thousand miles were made practically alone.</p> + +<p>In answer to the oft-repeated question of why I went to +Alaska I can only give the same reply that so many others +give: I wanted to go in search of my fortune which had +been successfully eluding my grasp for a good many years. +Neither home nor children claimed my attention. No good +reason, I thought, stood in the way of my going to +Alaska; for my husband, traveling constantly at his work +had long ago allowed me carte blanche as to my inclinations +and movements. To be sure, there was no money +in the bank upon which to draw, and an account with certain +friends whose kindness and generosity cannot be forgotten, +was opened up to pay passage money; but so far +neither they nor I have regretted making the venture.</p> + +<p>I had first-class health and made up in endurance what +I lacked in avoirdupois, along with a firm determination +to take up the first honest work that presented itself, regardless +of choice, and in the meantime to secure a few +gold claims, the fame of which had for two years reached +my ears.</p> + +<p>In regard to the truthfulness of this record I have tried +faithfully to relate my experiences as they took place. Not +all, of course, have been included, for numerous and varied +trials came to me, of which I have not written, else +a far more thrilling story could have been told.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span></p> + +<p>Enough has, however, been noted to give my readers a +fair idea of a woman's life during a period of eighteen +months in a few of the roughest mining camps in the +world; and that many may be interested, and to some extent +possibly instructed by the perusal of my little book, +is the sincere wish of the author.</p> + +<p class="author"><b>May Kellogg Sullivan.</b></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span></p> +<h2>A WOMAN WHO WENT—TO ALASKA.</h2> +<hr style="width: 15%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER I.</h2> + +<h3>UNDER WAY.</h3> + + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/dm.png" width="56" height="150" alt="M" title="M" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">Y first trip from California to Alaska +was made in the summer of 1899. I +went alone to Dawson to my father +and brother, surprising them greatly +when I quietly walked up to shake +hands with them at their work. The +amazement of my father knew no +bounds,—and yet I could see a lot of +quiet amusement beneath all when he +introduced me to his friends, which +plainly said:</p> + +<p>"Here is my venturesome daughter, who is +really a 'chip off the old block,' so you must not +be surprised at her coming to Alaska."</p> + +<p>Father had gone to the Klondyke a year before +at the age of sixty-four, climbing Chilkoot Pass in +the primitive way and "running" Miles Canyon +and White Horse Rapids in a small boat which +came near being swamped in the passage.</p> + +<p>My brother's entrance to the famous gold fields +was made in the same dangerous manner a year +before; but I had waited until trains over the +White Pass and Yukon Railroad had been crossing +the mountains daily for two weeks before myself<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> +attempting to get into Alaska's interior. At that +time it was only a three hours' ride, including stops, +over the Pass to Lake Bennett, the terminus of +this new railroad, the first in Alaska. A couple of +rude open flat cars with springless seats along the +sides were all the accommodation we had as passengers +from the summit of White Pass to Lake +Bennett; we having paid handsomely for the privilege +of riding in this manner and thinking ourselves +fortunate, considering the fact that our route was, +during the entire distance of about forty-five miles, +strewn with the bleaching bones of earlier argonauts +and their beasts of burden.</p> + +<p>Naturally, my traveling companions interested +me exceedingly. There were few women. Two +ladies with their husbands were going to Dawson +on business. About eight or ten other women belonging +to the rapid class of individuals journeyed +at the same time. We had all nationalities and +classes. There were two women from Europe with +luggage covered with foreign stickers, and a spoken +jargon which was neither German nor French, but +sounded like a clever admixture of both.</p> + +<p>Then there was the woman who went by the +name of Mrs. Somebody or other who wore a seal-skin +coat, diamond earrings and silver-mounted +umbrella. She had been placed in the same stateroom +with me on the steamer at Seattle, and upon +making her preparations to retire for the night had +offered me a glass of brandy, while imbibing one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> +herself, which I energetically, though politely, refused. +At midnight a second woman of the same +caste had been ushered into my room to occupy the +third and last berth, whereupon next morning I +had waited upon the purser of the ship, and +modestly but firmly requested a change of location. +In a gentlemanly way he informed me that the only +vacant stateroom was a small one next the engine +room below, but if I could endure the noise and +wished to take it, I could do so. I preferred the +proximity and whirr of machinery along with closer +quarters to the company of the two adventuresses, +so while both women slept late next morning I +quietly and thankfully moved all my belongings +below. Here I enjoyed the luxury of a room by +myself for forty-eight hours, or until we reached +Skagway, completely oblivious to the fact that +never for one instant did the pounding of the great +engines eight feet distant cease either day or night.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="i9" id="i9"></a> +<a href="images/009.jpg"><img src="images/009t.jpg" width="400" height="225" alt="" title="" /></a> +DAWSON, Y. T.</div> + +<p>A United States Judge, an English aristocrat +and lady, a Seattle lawyer, sober, thoughtful and of +middle age, who had been introduced to me by a +friend upon sailing, and who kindly kept me in +sight when we changed steamers or trains on the +trip without specially appearing to do so; a nice old +gentleman going to search for the body of his son +lost in the Klondyke River a few weeks before, +and a good many rough miners as well as nondescripts +made up our unique company to Dawson. +Some had been over the route before when<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> +mules and horses had been the only means of transportation +over the Passes, and stories of the trials +and dangers of former trips were heard upon deck +each day, with accompaniments of oaths and slang +phrases, and punctuated by splashes of tobacco +juice.</p> + +<p>On the voyage to Skagway there was little seasickness +among the passengers, as we kept to the +inland passage among the islands. At a short distance +away we viewed the great Treadwell gold +mines on Douglass Island, and peered out through +a veil of mist and rain at Juneau under the hills. +Here we left a few of our best and most pleasant +passengers, and watched the old Indian women +drive sharp bargains in curios, beaded moccasins, +bags, etc., with tourists who were impervious to the +great rain drops which are here always falling as +easily from the clouds as leaves from a maple tree +in October.</p> + +<p>Our landing at Skagway under the towering +mountains upon beautiful Lynn Canal was more +uneventful than our experience in the Customs +House at that place, for we were about to cross the +line into Canadian territory. Here we presented +an interesting and animated scene. Probably one +hundred and fifty persons crowded the small station +and baggage room, each one pushing his way +as far as possible toward the officials, who with +muttered curses hustled the tags upon each box and +trunk as it was hastily unlocked and examined.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> +Ropes and straps were flung about the floor, bags +thrown with bunches of keys promiscuously, while +transfer men perspiring from every pore tumbled +great mountains of luggage hither and thither.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="i12" id="i12"></a> +<a href="images/012.jpg"><img src="images/012t.jpg" width="400" height="282" alt="" title="" /></a> +CITY HALL AT SKAGWAY.</div> + + + +<p>Two ponderous Germans there were, who, in +checked steamer caps enveloped in cigar smoke of +the best brand, protested vigorously at the opening +of their trunks by the officers, but their protests +seemed only the more to whet the appetites of +these dignitaries. The big Germans had their revenge, +however. In the box of one of these men +was found with other things a lot of Limburger +cheese, the pungent odor of which drove the women +screaming to the doors, and men protesting indignantly +after them; while those unable to reach +the air prayed earnestly for a good stiff breeze off +Lynn Canal to revive them. The Germans laughed +till tears ran down their cheeks, and cheerfully +paid the duty imposed.</p> + +<p>Skagway was interesting chiefly from its historical +associations as a port where so many struggling +men had landed, suffered and passed on over +that trail of hardship and blood two years before.</p> + +<p>Our little narrow gauge coaches were crowded +to their utmost, men standing in aisles and on platforms, +and sitting upon wood boxes and hand luggage +near the doors.</p> + +<p>It was July, and the sight of fresh fruit in the +hands of those lunching in the next seat almost +brought tears to my eyes, for we were now going<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> +far beyond the land of fruits and all other delicacies.</p> + +<p>"Pick it up, old man, pick it up and eat it," said +one rough fellow of evident experience in Alaska +to one who had dropped a cherry upon the floor, +"for you won't get another while you stay in this +country, if it is four years!"</p> + +<p>"But," said another, "he can eat 'Alaska strawberries' +to his heart's content, summer and winter, +and I'll be bound when he gets home to the States +he won't thank anyone for puttin' a plate of beans +in front of him, he'll be that sick of 'em! I et beans +or 'Alaska strawberries' for nine months one season, +day in and day out, and I'm a peaceable man, +but at the end of that time I'd have put a bullet +through the man who offered me beans to eat, now +you can bet your life on that! Don't never insult +an old timer by puttin' beans before him, is my advice +if you do try to sugar-coat 'em by calling 'em +strawberries!" and the man thumped his old cob +pipe with force enough upon the wood box to empty +the ashes from its bowl and to break it into fragments +had it not been well seasoned.</p> + +<p>Upon the summit of White Pass we alighted +from the train and boarded another. This time +it was the open flat cars, and the Germans came +near being left. As the conductor shouted "all +aboard" they both scrambled, with great puffing +and blowing owing to their avoirdupois, to the rear +end of the last car, and with faces purple from exertion +plumped themselves down almost in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> +laps of some women who were laughing at them.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="i15" id="i15"></a> +<a href="images/015.jpg"><img src="images/015t.jpg" width="400" height="232" alt="" title="" /></a> +PORCUPINE CANYON, WHITE PASS.</div> + + +<p>We had now a dizzy descent to make to Lake +Bennett. Conductor and brakeman were on the +alert. With their hands upon the brakes these +men stood with nerves and muscles tense. All +talking ceased. Some of us thought of home and +loved ones, but none flinched. Slowly at first, then +faster and faster the train rolled over the rails until +lakes, hills and mountains fairly flew past us as +we descended. At last the train's speed was +slackened, and we moved more leisurely along the +foot of the mountains. We were in the beautiful +green "Meadows" where pretty and fragrant wild +flowers nodded in clusters among the tall grass.</p> + +<p>At Bennett our trunks were again opened, and +we left the train. We were to take a small steamer +down the lakes and river for Dawson. We were no +longer crowded, as passengers scattered to different +boats, some going east to Atlin. With little +trouble I secured a lodging for one night with the +stewardess of the small steamer which would carry +us as far as Miles Canyon or the Camp, Canyon +City. From there we were obliged to walk five +miles over the trail. It was midsummer, and the +woods through which we passed were green. Wild +flowers, grasses and moss carpeted our path which +lay along the eastern bank of the great gorge called +Miles Canyon, only at times winding away too far +for the roar of its rushing waters to reach our ears. +No sound of civilization came to us, and no life was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> +to be seen unless a crow chanced to fly overhead +in search of some morsel of food. Large forest +trees there were none. Tall, straight saplings of +poplar, spruce and pine pointed their slender fingers +heavenward, and seemed proudly to say:</p> + +<p>"See what fortitude we have to plant ourselves in +this lonely Northland with our roots and sap ice-bound +most of the year. Do you not admire us?" +And we did admire wonderingly. Then, again, +nearing the banks of Miles Canyon we forged our +way on up hill and down, across wet spots, over +boulders and logs, listening to the roar of the +mighty torrent dashing between towering, many-colored +walls of rock, where the volume of water +one hundred feet in width with a current of fifteen +miles an hour, and a distance of five-eighths of a +mile rushes insistently onward, as it has, no doubt, +done for ages past. Then at last widening, this +torrent is no longer confined by precipitous cliffs +but between sparsely wooded banks, and now +passes under the name of "White Horse Rapids," +from so strangely resembling white horses as the +waters are dashed over and about the huge boulders +in mid-stream. Here many of the earlier argonauts +found watery graves as they journeyed in +small boats or rafts down the streams to the Klondyke +in their mad haste to reach the newly discovered +gold fields.</p> + +<p>After leaving White Horse Rapids we traveled +for days down the river. My little stateroom next<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> +the galley or kitchen of the steamer was frequently +like an oven, so great was the heat from the big +cooking range. The room contained nothing but +two berths, made up with blankets and upon wire +springs, and the door did not boast of a lock of any +description. Upon application to the purser for a +chair I received a camp stool. Luckily I had +brushes, combs, soap and towels in my bag, for +none of these things were furnished with the stateroom. +In the stern of the boat there was a small +room where tin wash basins and roller towels +awaited the pleasure of the women passengers, the +water for their ablutions being kept in a barrel, +upon which hung an old dipper. To clean one's +teeth over the deck rail might seem to some an unusual +undertaking, but I soon learned to do this +with complacency, it being something of gain not +to lose sight of passing scenery while performing +the operation.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="i18" id="i18"></a> +<a href="images/018.jpg"><img src="images/018t.jpg" width="400" height="226" alt="" title="" /></a> +MILES CANYON.</div> + + + +<p>At Lake La Barge we enjoyed a magnificent +panorama. Bathed in the rosy glow of a departing +sunset, this beautiful body of water sparkled like +diamonds on all sides of us. Around us on every +hand lay the green and quiet hills. Near the waters' +edge they appeared a deep green, but grew +lighter in the distance. Long bars of crimson, +grey and gold streaked the western horizon, while +higher up tints of purple and pink blended harmoniously +with the soft blue sky. As the sun +slowly settled the colors deepened. Darker and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> +darker they grew. The warm soft glow had departed, +and all was purple and black, including the +waters beneath us; and as we passed through the +northern end or outlet of the lake into Thirty +Mile River we seemed to be entering a gate, so +narrow did the entrance to the river appear between +the hills.</p> + +<p>At night our steamer was frequently tied up to a +wood pile along the banks of the river. No signs +of civilization met our eyes, except, perhaps, a rude +log hut or cabin among the trees, where at night, +his solitary candle twinkling in his window and his +dogs baying at the moon, some lonely settler had +established himself.</p> + +<p>The Semenow Hills country is a lonely one. +Range upon range of rolling, partly wooded, hills +meet the eye of the traveler until it grows weary +and seeks relief in sleep.</p> + +<p>Five Finger Rapids was the next point of interest +on our route, and I am here reminded of a short +story which is not altogether one of fiction, and +which is entitled: Midnight on a Yukon Steamer.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2> + +<h3>MIDNIGHT ON A YUKON STEAMER.</h3> + + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/dt.png" width="56" height="150" alt="T" title="T" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">HE bright and yellow full moon drifted +slowly upward. The sun had just set +at nine in the evening, casting a warm +and beautiful glow over all the lonely +landscape, for it was the most dreary +spot in all the dreary wilderness +through which the mighty Yukon +passes.</p> + +<p>The steamer had tied up for wood, +and now the brawny stevedores with +blackened hands and arms were pitching it to the +deck.</p> + +<p>To the passengers, of whom there were a +goodly number, time hung heavily, and the younger +ones had proposed a dance. Musical instruments +were not numerous, but such as there were, were +brought out, and two non-professionals with an accordion +and a banjo, were doing their very best.</p> + +<p>A small number of sober ones were to be seen on +deck pacing restlessly back and forth, for the ruthless +mosquito was distinctly on evidence, and +threatened to outgeneral the quiet ones, if not the +orchestra and the hilarious dancers.</p> + +<p>On the upper deck, a lady, clad in warm cloak +and thick veil, walked tirelessly to and fro. A big +stump-tailed dog of the Malemute tribe at times followed +at her heels, but when she had patted his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> +head and spoken kindly to him he appeared satisfied, +and lay down again with his head between his +paws. Then sounds from the dancers below, the +shrill laughter of the women mingled with the +strum of the banjo and the wheezy accordion +seemed to disturb the dog's slumber, and he would +again pace up and down at the lady's heels.</p> + +<p>At times there would come a lull in the tumult, +and the click of the glasses or crash of a fallen +pitcher would make a variety of entertainment for +the lady and her dog on the upper deck; but the +short and dusky midnight was well passed before +the dancing ceased and partial quiet and order were +restored.</p> + +<p>Two figures remained near the stern of the boat. +One, a young woman with a profusion of long +auburn hair, the other a man with flushed face and +thick breath.</p> + +<p>"I cannot tell now which one it will be," said the +girl coquettishly, "but if you wait you will see."</p> + +<p>"No more waitin' in it," he growled. "I have +waited long enough, and too long, and you must +choose between us now. You know we will soon +be at 'Five Fingers,' and you must be good or +they may get you," with a wicked leer and clutch +at her arm calculated to startle her as she carelessly +sat on the deck rail.</p> + +<p>"I'm not afraid of 'Five Fingers' or any other +fingers, and I'm not afraid of your two hands +either," making her muscles very tense, and sitting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> +rigidly upright, "and you can't scare me a bit; I'll +do as I like, so there!"</p> + +<p>By this time the moon shone high above the tops +of the tall slender pines, and spread its soft light +over all the swift and swirling waters. To the west, +the hills faded first from green to blue, then to +purple, and lastly to black, silhouetted as they were +against the quiet sky.</p> + +<p>The swift flowing current pushed the waters up +among the weeds and bushes along the river's edge +and the loose rocks were washed quite smooth. +Now and then might be heard the bark of a wood-chopper's +dog stationed outside his master's cabin, +and the steady thud of the steamer never stopped. +At two o'clock it was growing light again, and +still the young man pleaded with the girl on the +deck. She was stubborn and silent.</p> + +<p>Swiftly now the boat neared the "Five Fingers." +Only a few miles remained before the huge boulders +forming the narrow and tortuous channels +called the "Five Fingers" would be reached, and +the face of the pilot was stern. It was a most dangerous +piece of water and many boats had already +been wrecked at this point.</p> + +<p>Suddenly above the noise of the waters and the +steamer's regular breathing there arose on the +quiet air a shrill shriek at the stern of the boat.</p> + +<p>The lady on the upper deck had retired. The +captain was sleeping off his too frequent potations, +and only the pilot on the lookout knew that the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> +scream came from a woman; but it was not repeated.</p> + +<p>The pilot's assistant was off watch, and his own +duty lay at the wheel; so it happened that a guilty +man who had been standing by the deck rail crept +silently, unnoticed, and now thoroughly sobered, to +his stateroom.</p> + +<p>His companion was nowhere to be seen.</p> + +<p>A small steamer following next day in the wake +of the first boat, came to Five Finger Rapids.</p> + +<p>"See the pretty red seaweed on the rocks, +mamma," cried a little boy, pointing to the low +ledge on the bank of the east channel.</p> + +<p>Those who looked in the direction indicated by +the boy saw, as the steamer crept carefully up to +the whirlpool, a woman's white face in the water, +above which streamed a mass of long auburn hair, +caught firmly on the rocks.</p> + +<p>Standing by the side of his pilot, the captain's +keen eye caught sight of the head and hair.</p> + +<p>"It's only Dolly Duncan," he said, with a shrug +of his shoulders. "No one else has such hair; but +it's no great loss anyway; there are many more of +such as she, you know."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="i25" id="i25"></a> +<a href="images/025.jpg"><img src="images/025t.jpg" width="400" height="259" alt="" title="" /></a> +UPPER YUKON STEAMER.</div> + + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2> + +<h3>DAWSON.</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/db.png" width="56" height="150" alt="B" title="B" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">Y this time we had passed the Hootalingua, +Big Salmon, Little Salmon and +Lewes rivers, and were nearing the +mouth of Pelley River, all flowing into +one stream from the east and uniting +to form the Upper Yukon. Many +smaller rivers and creeks from the west +as well as the east empty into this river +which gathers momentum and volume +constantly until it reaches a swiftness +of five miles an hour between Five Finger Rapids +and Fort Selkirk.</p> + +<p>This latter fort is an old Canadian Post where +mounted police and other officers and soldiers are +stationed. Never shall I forget my first experience +at Fort Selkirk. We arrived about one o'clock in +the afternoon and were told that our steamer would +remain there an hour, giving us all a chance to run +about on shore for a change. Taking my sunshade, +and attracted by the wide green fields dotted with +pretty wild flowers of various colors, I rambled +around alone for an hour, all the time keeping our +steamer in plain sight not many hundred yards +away. Curious to learn the meaning of a group of +peculiar stakes driven into the ground, some of +which were surrounded by rude little fences, I made +my way in a narrow path through the deep grass to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> +the place, and soon discovered an Indian burial +ground. There were, perhaps, twenty little mounds +or graves, a few much sunken below the level as if +made long years before, but all were marked in +some manner by rude head boards.</p> + +<p>These were notched, and had at one time been +fancifully stained or colored by the Ayan Indians, +the stains and funny little inscriptions being, for the +most part, obliterated by the elements. Dainty wild +roses here nodded gracefully to each other, their +pretty blooms being weighted down at times by +some venturesome, big honey bee or insolent fly; +both insects with many others, some of them unknown +to me, buzzing contentedly in the sunshine +overhead.</p> + +<p>Daisies and buttercups grew wild. Flowering +beans and peas trailed their sprays upon the +ground. Blue bells, paint brush, and other posies +fairly bewildered me, so surprised was I to find +them here in this far Northland. Without this happiness +and cheer given me by my sweet little floral +friends I might not have been so well prepared to +endure the rudeness that was awaiting me.</p> + +<p>Upon my return to the steamer I found all in confusion. +I could see no signs of departure and no +one of whom I cared to make inquiries. Men and +women were coming and going, but none appeared +sober, while many with flushed faces were loudly +laughing and joking. A few Canadian police in red +coats scattered here and there were fully as rollicking<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> +as any, and the steamer's captain and purser, +arm in arm with a big, burly Canadian official, were +as drunk as bad liquor could well make them.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="i28" id="i28"></a> +<a href="images/028.jpg"><img src="images/028t.jpg" width="400" height="226" alt="" title="" /></a> +FIVE FINGER RAPIDS.</div> + +<p>Going to my stateroom I sat down to read, and, +if possible, hide my anxiety. As there was no window +or other ventilator, and it was a warm day, I +could not close the door. While sitting thus the +doorway was darkened, and looking up I saw before +me the drunken Canadian official, leering at me +with a horrible grin, and just about to speak.</p> + +<p>At that instant there stepped to his side the tall +form of the only really sober man on board—the +Seattle lawyer, who, in his most dignified manner +motioned the officer on, and he went; the gentlemanly +lawyer, tossing his half-consumed cigar overboard +in an emphatic way as if giving vent to his +inward perturbation, marched moodily on. Catching +a glimpse of his face as he passed, I concluded +that the situation was fully as bad or worse than I +had at first feared. Already we had been several +hours at Fort Selkirk and should have been miles +on toward Dawson.</p> + +<p>The captain and crew were too drunk to know +what they were doing, and they were hourly growing +more so. Many were gambling and drinking +in the salon or dining room and others came from +the liquor store on shore a few rods away. The +voices of the women were keyed to the highest +pitch as they shouted with laughter at the rough +jokes or losing games of the men, while red-faced,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> +perspiring waiters hurried back and forth with trays +laden with bottles and glasses. Now and then the +crash of a fallen pitcher or plate, followed by the +shrieks of the women would reach me, and looking +through the great cracks in the board partition +which was the only thing separating me from the +drunken crowd, I could see most of the carousal, +for such it now was.</p> + +<p>My anxiety increased. I feared the danger of a +night on board in a tiny stateroom, without lock +or weapon, and entirely alone.</p> + +<p>"Mr. H——," said I quietly, a little later, to the +man from Seattle, as I stepped up to him while he +smoked near the deck rail. "When do you think +the steamer will leave this place?"</p> + +<p>"Tomorrow, most likely," in a tone of deep disgust.</p> + +<p>"Do you not think that the captain will push on +tonight?" I asked in great anxiety.</p> + +<p>"I doubt if there is a man on board with enough +sense left to run the engine, and the captain—look +there!" pointing to a maudlin and dishevelled Canadian +wearing a captain's cap, and just then trying to +preserve his equilibrium on a wooden settle near +the railing. "It would be a blessing if the brute +tumbled overboard, and we were well rid of him," +said the gentleman savagely in a low tone. Then, +seeing my consternation, he added: "I'll see what +can be done, however," and I returned to my room.</p> + +<p>What should I do! I knew of no place of safety<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> +on shore for me during the night if the steamer remained, +and I dared not stay in my stateroom. I +had no revolver, no key to my door. I might be +murdered before morning, and my friends would +never know what had become of me. There was +no one on board to whom I could appeal but the +lawyer, and he might be powerless to protect me in +such a drunken rabble. With a prayer in my heart +I made my nerves as tense as possible and shut my +teeth tightly together. It was best to appear unconcerned. +I did it. Suggesting away all fright +from my face I watched proceedings in the dining +room through the cracks in the wall. It was a sight +such as I had never before seen. It was six o'clock +and dinner was being served by the flushed and +flustered waiters. Probably a hundred persons sat +at the tables in all stages of intoxication. Hilarity +ran high. Most of them were wildly jolly and gushingly +full of good will; but all seemed hungry, and +the odors from the kitchen were appetizing.</p> + +<p>I now hoped that the dinner, and especially the +hot tea and coffee would restore some of these +people to their senses in order that they might get +up steam in the engines and pull out of this terrible +place before they were too far gone. Dinner was +well over in the dining room and I had not yet +eaten. A waiter passed my door. He stopped.</p> + +<p>"Have you eaten dinner?"</p> + +<p>"No, I have not."</p> + +<p>"Don't you want some?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Well, yes. I think I could eat something."</p> + +<p>"I'll bring you some." And he was gone.</p> + +<p>A few minutes later he entered my stateroom +with a big tray, and putting it upon the edge of the +upper berth he left me. I ate my dinner from the +tray while standing, and felt better.</p> + +<p>An hour afterward the drunken officials had been +coaxed into going ashore; the furnace in the engine +room was crammed with wood; the partially sobered +pilot resumed his place at the wheel; the +captain had pulled himself together as best he could +under the threats of the lawyer from Seattle, and +the steamer moved away from the bank, going with +the current swiftly towards Dawson. Nothing of +further importance occurred until next morning +when our steamer pulled up alongside the dock at +Dawson. It was Monday morning, the thirtieth of +July, 1899, and the weather was beautifully clear. +I had been fourteen days coming from Seattle. +Hundreds of people waited upon the dock to see us +land, and to get a glimpse of a new lot of "Chechakos," +as all newcomers are called.</p> + +<p>Soon after landing I met upon the street an old +Seattle friend of my parents, who knew me instantly +and directed me to my father. This man's kind +offer to look up my baggage was accepted, and I +trudged down through the town towards the Klondyke +River, where my father and brother lived. I +had no difficulty in finding father, and after the first +surprise and our luncheon were over we proceeded<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> +to find my brother at his work. His astonishment +was as great as my father's, and I cannot truthfully +state that either of them were overcome with joy at +seeing me in Dawson. At any other time or place +they undoubtedly would have been delighted, but +they were too well acquainted with conditions to +wish another member of their family there in what +was probably then the largest and roughest mining +camp in the world. The situation that presented +itself was this. Instead of finding my relatives +comfortably settled in a large and commodious log +cabin of their own on the banks of the Klondyke +River, as they had written they were, I found them +in the act of moving all their belongings into a big +covered scow or barge drawn close to the river +bank and securely fastened. Cooking utensils, +boxes, bags of provisions consisting of flour, beans +and meal, as well as canned goods of every description, +along with firewood and numerous other +things, were dumped in one big heap upon the +banks of the Klondyke River near the barge.</p> + +<p>The small sheet iron box with door and lid, called +a Yukon stove, had been set up close in one corner +of the living room, which in size was about eight by +ten feet. Two bunks, one above the other in the +opposite corner, had been lately constructed by +father, who at the moment of my arrival was busy +screwing a small drop leaf to the wall to be used +as a dining table when supported by a couple of +rather uncertain adjustable legs underneath.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span></p> + +<p>The meaning of all this commotion was not long +to find. Father and brother had, along with many +more as peaceable and law-abiding citizens, been +ordered out of their log cabins, built at a great out-lay +of time, money and strength, so that their +homes should be pulled down in accordance with an +order given by the Governor. This land, as the city +had grown, had increased in value and was coveted +by those high in authority. No redress was made +the settlers, no money was paid them, nothing for +them but insulting commands and black looks from +the Canadian police enforcing the order of the +governor.</p> + +<p>"Never again," said my father repeatedly, "will +I build or own a home in the Klondyke. This scow +will shelter me until I make what money I want, +and then good-bye to such a country and its oppressive +officials."</p> + +<p>Other men cursed and swore, and mutterings of +a serious nature were heard; but there was nothing +to be done, and the row of comfortable, completed +log cabins was torn down, and we settled ourselves +elsewhere by degrees. A bunk with calico curtains +hung around it was made for me, and I was constituted +cook of the camp. Then such a scouring of +tins, kettles and pails as I had! Shelves were nailed +in place for all such utensils, and a spot was found +for almost everything, after which the struggle was +begun to keep these things in their places. Then I +baked and boiled and stewed and patched and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> +mended, between times writing in my note book, +sending letters to friends or taking kodak pictures.</p> + +<p>I was now living in a new world! Nothing like +the town of Dawson had I ever seen. Crooked, +rough and dirty streets; rude, narrow board walks +or none at all; dog-teams hauling all manner of +loads on small carts, and donkeys or "burros" +bowing beneath great loads of supplies starting out +on the trail for the gold mines.</p> + +<p>"Don't do that!" shouted a man to me one day, +as I attempted to "snap-shot" his pack train of +twenty horses and mules as they passed us. Two +of the animals had grown tired and attempted to +lie down, thus causing the flour sacks with which +they were loaded to burst open and the flour to fly +in clouds around them. "Don't do that," he entreated, +"for we are having too much trouble!"</p> + +<p>Some of the drivers were lashing the mules to +make them rise, and this spread a panic through +most of the train, so that one horse, evidently new +to the business and not of a serious turn of mind, +ran swiftly away, kicking up his heels in the dust +behind him. There were also hams and sides of +bacon dangling in greasy yellow covers over the +backs of the pack animals, along with "grub" +boxes and bags of canned goods of every description. +Pick axes, shovels, gold pans and Yukon +stoves with bundles of stove pipe tied together with +ropes, rolls of blankets, bedding, rubber boots, canvas +tents, ad infinitum.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span></p> + +<p>There was one method used by "packers," as the +drivers of these pack trains were called, which +worked well in some instances. If the animals of +his train were all sober and given to honestly doing +their work, then the halter or rope around the neck +of a mule could be tied to the tail of the one preceding +him, and so on again until they were all really +hitched together tandem. But woe unto the poor +brute who was followed by a balky fellow or a +shirk! The consequences were, at times, under +certain circumstances, almost too serious to be recounted +in this story, at least this can be said of the +emphatic language used by the packers in such +predicament.</p> + +<p>One warm, bright day soon after my arrival in +Dawson, and when order had been brought out of +chaos in the scow—our home—I went to call upon +an old friend, formerly of Seattle. Carrie N. was +three or four years younger than myself, had been a +nurse for a time after the death of her husband, but +grew tired of that work, and decided in the winter +of 1897 and 1898 to go into the Klondyke. A party +of forty men and women going to Dawson was +made up in Seattle, and she joined them. For +weeks they were busily engaged in making their +preparations. Living near me, as she did at the +time, I was often with Carrie N. and was much +interested in her movements and accompanied her +to the Alaska steamer the day she sailed. It was +the little ship "Alki" upon which she went away,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> +and it was crowded with passengers and loaded +heavily with freight for the trip to Dyea, as Skagway +and the dreaded White Pass had been voted +out of the plans of the Seattle party of forty.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="i37" id="i37"></a> +<a href="images/037.jpg"><img src="images/037t.jpg" width="400" height="225" alt="" title="" /></a> +GOING TO DAWSON IN WINTER.</div> + +<p>Now in Dawson I called upon Carrie N. eighteen +months later, and heard her tell the story of her +trip to the Klondyke. They had landed, she said, +at Dyea from the "Alki" with their many tons of +provisions and supplies, all of which had to be +dumped upon the beach where no dock or wharf +had ever been constructed. Here with dog-teams +and sleds, a few horses and men "packers," their +supplies were hauled up the mountain as far as +"Sheep Camp," some ten miles up the mountain +side. It was early springtime and the snow lay deep +upon the mountains and in the gorges, which, in +the vicinity of Chilkoot Pass at the summit of the +mountain are frightfully high and precipitous.</p> + +<p>The weather was not cold, and the moving of this +large party of forty persons with their entire outfit +was progressing as favorably as could be expected. +A camp had been made at Dyea as the base of operations; +another was made at Sheep Camp. At each +place the women of the party did the cooking in +tents while men gathered wood, built fires, and +brought water. Other men worked steadily at the +hauling, and most of their supplies had already +been transported to the upper camp; when there +occurred a tragedy so frightful as to make itself a +part of never-to-be-forgotten Alaskan history.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span></p> + +<p>It was on Sunday, and a snow storm was raging, +but the weather was warm. Hundreds of people +thronged the trails both going up and coming down +the mountain in their effort to quickly transport +their outfits over to the other side, and thus make +the best possible time in reaching the gold fields. +Here a difference of opinion arose among the people +of our Seattle party, for some, more daring than +the others, wished to push on over the summit +regardless of the storm; while the more cautious +ones demurred and held back, thinking it the part +of discretion to wait for better weather. A few venturesome +ones kept to their purpose and started +on ahead, promising to meet the laggards at Lake +Bennett with boats of their own making in which +to journey down the river and lakes to Dawson.</p> + +<p>Their promises were never fulfilled.</p> + +<p>While they, in company with hundreds of others +as venturesome, trudged heavily up the narrow +trail, a roar as of an earthquake suddenly sounded +their death-knell. Swiftly down the mountain side +above them tore the terrible avalanche, a monster +formation of ice, snow and rock, the latter loosened +and ground off the face of old Chilkoot by the rushing +force of the moving snowslide urged on by a +mighty wind. In an instant's time a hundred men +and women were brushed, like flies from a ceiling, +off the face of the mountain into their death below, +leaving a space cleared of all to the bare earth<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> +where only a few seconds before had stood the +patient toilers on the trail.</p> + +<p>Only one thing remained for the living to do, and +that was to drop all else and rescue, if possible, the +dying and engulfed ones. This they did. When +the wind had died away the snow in the air cleared, +and hundreds of men threw themselves into the +rescue work. Many were injured but lived. Some +were buried in snow but found their way to light +again. One man was entirely covered except one +arm which he used energetically to inform those +above him of his whereabouts. He was taken out +unharmed, and lived to welcome the writer of this +to Dawson, where he carted and delivered her trunk +faithfully.</p> + +<p>But Carrie N. had remained at Sheep Camp and +was safe. Then her experience in nursing stood her +in good stead; and while men brought the dead to +camp, she, with others, for hours performed the +services which made the bodies ready for burial. It +was a heart-rending undertaking and required a cool +head and steady hand, both of which Carrie N. +possessed. Two men of her party thus lost their +lives, and it was not until days afterward that the +last of the poor unfortunates were found. Nearly +one hundred lives were lost in this terrible disaster, +but there were undoubtedly those whose bodies +were never found, and whose death still remains a +mystery.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2> + +<h3>THE RUSH.</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/ds.png" width="56" height="150" alt="S" title="S" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">INCE the discovery of gold by George +Carmack on Bonanza Creek in September, +1896, the growth of this country +has been phenomenal, more especially +so to the one who has visited and +is familiar with Dawson and the Klondyke +mining section.</p> + +<p>As to the entire yield of gold from +the Klondyke Creeks, none can say +except approximately; for the ten per +cent. royalty imposed by the Canadian government +has always met a phase of human nature which +prompts to concealment and dishonesty, so that +a truthful estimate cannot be made.</p> + +<p>The Canadian Dominion government is very +oppressive. Mining laws are very arbitrary and +strictly enforced. A person wishing to prospect +for gold must first procure a miner's license, paying +ten dollars for it. If anything is discovered, and he +wishes to locate a claim, he visits the recorder's +office, states his business, and is told to call again. +In the meantime, men are sent to examine the locality +and if anything of value is found, the man wishing +to record the claim is told that it is already +located. The officials seize it. The man has no way +of ascertaining if the land was properly located, +and so has no redress. If the claim is thought to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> +be poor, he can locate it by the payment of a fifteen +dollar fee.</p> + +<p>One half of all mining land is reserved for the +crown, a quarter or more is gobbled by corrupt +officials, and a meagre share left for the daring +miners who, by braving hardship and death, develop +the mines and open up the country.</p> + +<p>"Any one going into the country has no right +to cut wood for any purpose, or to kill any game or +catch any fish, without a license for which a fee of +ten dollars must be paid. With such a license it is +unlawful to sell a stick of wood for any purpose, or +a pound of fish or game." The law is strictly enforced. +To do anything, one must have a special +permit, and for every such permit he must pay +roundly.</p> + +<p>The story is told of a miner in a hospital who +was about to die. He requested that the Governor +be sent for. Being asked what he wanted with the +Governor, he replied: "I haven't any permit, and if +I should undertake to die without a permit, I +should get myself arrested."</p> + +<p>It is a well-known fact that many claims on Eldorado, +Hunker and Bonanza Creeks have turned out +hundreds of thousands of dollars. One pan of +gravel on Eldorado Creek yielded $2100. Frank +Dinsmore on Bonanza Creek took out ninety +pounds of solid gold or $24,480 in a single day. On +Aleck McDonald's claim on Eldorado, one man +shoveled in $20,000 in twelve hours. McDonald,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> +in two years, dug from the frozen ground $2,207,893. +Charley Anderson, on Eldorado, panned out +$700 in three hours. T. S. Lippy is said to have +paid the Canadian government $65,000 in royalties +for the year 1898 and Clarence Berry about the +same.</p> + +<p>On Skukum Gulch $30,000 were taken from two +boxes of dirt. Frank Phiscator of Michigan, after +a few months' work, brought home $100,000 in +gold, selling one-third of his claim interests for +$1,333,000, or at the rate of $5,000,000 for the +whole.</p> + +<p>When a man is compelled to pay one thousand +dollars out of every ten thousand he digs from the +ground, he will boast little of large "clean-ups"; +and for this reason it is hard to estimate the real +amount of gold extracted from the Klondyke mines.</p> + +<p>Captain James Kennedy, an old pioneer and conservative +mining man, estimates the output for the +season of 1899 as $25,000,000, or fifty tons of dust +and nuggets.</p> + +<p>The most commendable thing about the Canadian +Government is their strict enforcement of +order. Stealing is an almost unheard of thing, and +petty thieving does not exist. Mounted police in +their brown uniforms and soldiers in their red coats +are everywhere seen in and around Dawson, and +they practice methods, which, to the uninitiated, +make them very nearly omnipresent.</p> + +<p>While walking down street in Dawson one morning<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> +about nine o'clock, I passed a group of men all +wearing sober faces. "They're done for now," said +a rough miner, glancing in the direction of the +Barracks, where a black flag was fluttering at the +top of a staff.</p> + +<p>"How so?" asked another, just come up to the +group.</p> + +<p>"Three men hung over there, an hour ago. +They're goin' to bury 'em now," and the speaker +twitched his thumbs first toward the Barracks, then +farther east, where a rough stretch of ground lay +unused. Here could be seen policemen and soldiers, +evidently in the midst of some performance +not on their daily routine.</p> + +<p>A number of prisoners wearing the regulation +garb of convicts,—pantaloons of heavy mackinaw, +one leg of yellow and the other of black,—were +carrying long, rough boxes, while others were digging +shallow graves.</p> + +<p>Upon inquiry I found that what the miner had +said was true. Three prisoners, two of them Indian +murderers, with another man notoriously bad, +had indeed been hung about eight o'clock that +morning in the barracks courtyard. In less than +two hours afterward they were interred, and in as +many days they were forgotten.</p> + +<p>By the middle of July, 1899, the steamers leaving +Dawson on their way down the Yukon to St. +Michael and the new gold fields at Nome, were well +filled with those who were anxious to try their luck<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> +in Uncle Sam's territory where they can breathe, +dig, fish, hunt, or die without buying a license.</p> + +<p>By August the steamers coming from St. Michael +brought such glowing accounts of the Nome gold +fields, that while few people came in, they carried as +many out as they could accommodate.</p> + +<p>By September the rush down the Yukon was tremendous, +and of the twelve thousand people in +Dawson many hundreds left for Nome.</p> + +<p>When, after six weeks spent in curiously studying +conditions and things,—not to say people,—in +the great mining camp, it was decided that I should +accompany my brother down the Yukon to Cape +Nome, and so "out" home to San Francisco, I felt +a very distinct sense of disappointment. The novelty +of everything, the excitement which came each +day in some form or other, was as agreeable as the +beautiful summer weather with the long, quiet +evenings only settling into darkness at midnight.</p> + +<p>In September came the frosts. Men living in +tents moved their little Yukon stoves inside, and +brought fresh sawdust and shavings from the mills +for their beds. Others packed their few possessions +into small boats, hauled down their tents, whistled +to their dogs, and rolling up their sleeves, pulled +laboriously up the swift little Klondyke to their +winter "lays" in the mines.</p> + +<p>Hundreds were also leaving for the outside. +Steamers, both large and small, going to White +Horse and Bennett, carried those who had joyfully<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> +packed their bags and smilingly said good-bye; for +they were going home to the "States." How we +strained our eyes from our cabin window or from +the higher bank above, to see the people on the +decks of the out-going boats. How the name of +each tug and even freight-carrier became a familiar +household word, and how many were the conjectures +as to whether "she" would get through to +White Horse Rapids in the low water before a +freeze-up!</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 276px;"><a name="i46" id="i46"></a> +<a href="images/046.jpg"><img src="images/046t.jpg" width="276" height="400" alt="" title="" /></a> +A KLONDYKE CLAIM.</div> + +<p>One day our own steamer came. She was a magnificently +equipped river boat called the "Hannah," +belonging to the Alaska Commercial Company, and +had cost one hundred thousand dollars. This was +to be her last trip for the season, and with us it +was "home now, or here all winter," and we made +ready to leave. My kodak had been emptied and +filled again, calls on acquaintances made, and good-byes +said. My battered and broken trunk, which, +at the hands of the English customs officials had +suffered much, had now to be repaired and put to a +good long test. This box was in a state of total +collapse; rollers all gone, covering torn and bent, +screws and nails lost, sides split, bottom entirely +dropped out, but it must go; so my big brother was +wheedled into putting it into some kind of shape +again, and it came out stronger than before.</p> + +<p>No lunches were needed. The cuisine of the +Hannah was said to be as perfect as could be in this +far away corner of the globe, and we trusted to that.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span></p> + +<p>On September sixteenth the Hannah sounded +her whistle—all was hurry and bustle, and such a +sight! If hundreds had stood on the docks to welcome +us as we entered the city, there were thousands +now. It was pleasant. We felt flattered, +especially as the band struck up our own national +airs, giving us a medley of "Yankee Doodle," +"America," "Tramp, Tramp, Tramp," and "When +Johnny Comes Marching Home." They felt constrained, +however, to wind up with "Sweet Marie," +and rag-time dances, one old fellow in slouch hat +and with a few drinks too many, stepping the jigs +off in lively and comical fashion.</p> + +<p>Our pride was perceptibly lessened afterward, +when we learned that we had on board a dance hall +outfit, and the band belonged to the Monte Carlo +saloon!</p> + +<p>We were now in the midst of a group, cosmopolitan +beyond our wildest dreams. Pushing their way +through the crowd to the gangplank came men, +women and dogs, carrying grips, kodaks, tin cash +boxes, musical instruments, army sacks, fur robes, +and rolls of blankets. Struggling under the weight +of canvas tents, poles, Yukon stoves and sleds, as +well as every conceivable thing, they climbed the +stairway to the deck. Here, and in the main saloon, +all was deposited for the time being.</p> + +<p>There was a woman with a fine grey cat, for +which she had been offered fifty dollars, wrapped in +a warm shawl, much to pussy's disgust. A number<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> +of women had dogs and were weeping, probably at +leaving other canines behind. Several persons carried +little grips so heavy that they tugged along—evidently +"Chechako," or paper money, was more +scarce with them than dust and nuggets.</p> + +<p>As freight, there was a piano, many iron-bound +boxes containing gold bullion, securely sealed and +labeled, and tons of supplies for the consumption +of the passengers, of whom there were now five +hundred.</p> + +<p>Then the whistle again sounded—the gangplank +was hauled in, handkerchiefs fluttered, the +band struck up "Home Sweet Home"—we were +headed down the Yukon River and toward the +Arctic Circle.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>We had now a journey of seventeen hundred +miles before us. We were to traverse a country +almost unknown to man. We were two of a party +of five hundred persons, the majority of whom, if +not actually desperadoes, were reckless and given +over to the pursuit of gold regardless of the manner +of its getting. There were loose characters of the +town by hundreds; there were gamblers running a +variety of games both day and night; there were +dance house girls and musicians; there were drunks +and toughs, and one prize fighter. No firearms or +knives were seen, though many, no doubt, had +them.</p> + +<p>With the enormous amount of gold on board<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> +(for the steamer's safe was overflowing, and the +purser's room well packed with the precious stuff), +with the numbers of hard characters we carried, +and the now increasing remoteness from centres of +government, there were dangers, we were forced to +confess, but which we only admitted in whispers.</p> + +<p>Three hours after leaving Dawson we were taking +on wood at Forty Mile. This is the oldest +camp on the Yukon River, and the early home of +Jack McQuestion. The river banks were lined +with canoes; many natives stood looking at us from +the shore, and while stevedores handled the wood, +many passengers visited the town. It was not long +before they came back with hands full of turnips, +just pulled from the ground, which, had they been +the most luscious fruit, could not have been eaten +with more relish.</p> + +<p>I then tried to buy one of a young man, but he +had evidently been long away from such luxuries, +for he refused to sell; afterward, his gallantry getting +the better of him, he politely offered me one-half +of the vegetable, which I took with thanks.</p> + +<p>As my brother peeled the precious turnip, I +asked him how long since he had eaten one. "Two +years," he promptly replied. Knowing that he was +especially fond of such things, I ate a small slice, +and gave him the remainder. It is needless to say +he enjoyed it.</p> + +<p>To the right of the landing at Forty Mile, just +across a small stream which runs into the Yukon,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> +is Fort Cudahy, containing the stores and warehouses +of one of the large companies, as well as a +post-office.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="i51" id="i51"></a> +<a href="images/051.jpg"><img src="images/051t.jpg" width="400" height="228" alt="" title="" /></a> +EAGLE CITY, ON THE YUKON, IN 1899.</div> + +<p>But we were soon off again, steaming along between +hills yellow with fading poplar leaves and +green streaked with pines. Many rocky spurs towered +grandly heavenward, with tops, like silvered +heads, covered with newly fallen snow. The Yukon +is here very crooked and narrow, and abrupt banks +hedged our steamer in on all sides.</p> + +<p>Next morning early we arrived at Eagle City, +Alaska. We were now in Uncle Sam's land, and +breathed more freely. We felt at home. We cheered +and waved our handkerchiefs to the blue uniformed +soldiers on the river bank who had come to see us.</p> + +<p>We went ashore and called upon lieutenant L., +lately from his home in Connecticut and campaigning +in Cuba. Taking us into a log house near by, +he pointed out forty thousand rounds of ammunition +and one hundred and fifteen Krag-Jorgensen +rifles of the latest pattern.</p> + +<p>Here were stationed one hundred and fifteen +men, some of them at that time out moose hunting +and fishing. Captain Ray, an old white-haired gentleman, +stood outside his cabin door. At Eagle we +saw the new government barracks just being finished, +the logs and shingles having been sawed at +the government saw-mill near by, at the mouth of +Mission Creek.</p> + +<p>We were particularly struck with the very youthful<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> +appearance of our soldiers, and their wistful +faces as they watched our preparations for departure.</p> + +<p>The lieutenant had said that life in Cuba, or in +almost any old place was preferable to that at +Eagle, with the long winter staring them in the face, +and we could see that the poor fellow longed for +home. We were quite touched, but tried to cheer +him as best we could.</p> + +<p>Circle City, on a big bend of the river from +which it derives its name, was reached the following +evening. Here all hands crowded over the gangplank +and into the stores. In less time than it takes +to write it, these places were filled with miners, +each man pulling away at his strong, old pipe, the +companion of many weary months perhaps; while +over the counters they handed their gold dust in +payment for the "best plug cut," chewing gum, +candy, or whatever else they saw that looked tempting. +Here we bought two pairs of beaded moccasins +for seven dollars.</p> + +<p>As a heavy fog settled down upon us, our captain +thought best to tie up the steamer over night, and +did so. Next morning by daylight we saw the +offices of the United States marshal; both log +cabins with dirt roofs, upon which bunches of tall +weeds were going to seed. We hoped this was not +symbolical of the state of Uncle Sam's affairs in +the interior, but feared it might be, as the places +seemed deserted.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span></p> + +<p>Many of the one thousand cabins at Circle were +now vacant, but it is the largest town next to Dawson +on the Yukon River.</p> + +<p>During the whole of the next day our pilots +steered cautiously over the Yukon Flats.</p> + +<p>This is a stretch of about four hundred miles of +low, swampy country, where the Yukon evidently +loses its courage to run swiftly, for it spreads out +indolently in all directions between treacherous and +shifting sand-bars, fairly disheartening to all not +familiar with its many peculiarities.</p> + +<p>We now learned for the first time that we were +practically in the hands of three pilots, two of +whom were Eskimos, one of them on a salary of five +hundred dollars per month. This man was perfectly +familiar with the entire river, being an expert +pilot, as he proved during this trip to the satisfaction +of all.</p> + +<p>Owing to the near approach of winter, and the +extremely low water at this point, the captain, crew, +and many others, wore anxious faces until the Flats +were well passed. Should our steamer stick fast on +a sand-bar, or take fire, we might easily be landed; +but to be left in such a bleak and barren place, with +cold weather approaching, snow beginning to fall, +no shelter, and only provisions for a few days, with +traveling companions of the very worst type, and +no passing steamers to pick us up, we would indeed +meet a hard fate, and one even the prospect of +which was well calculated to make strong men +shudder.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V</h2> + +<h3>AT THE ARCTIC CIRCLE.</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/dw.png" width="56" height="150" alt="W" title="W" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">E were now at the Arctic Circle. For +three days we had no sunshine, and +flurries of snow were frequent. The +mountain tops, as well as the banks +and sand-bars of the river, were spread +with a thin covering of snow; enough +at least to give a wintry aspect. This +added to the leaden sky above, made +the warmth of big coal fires acceptable +indoors, and fur coats comfortable on +the decks.</p> + +<p>At Fort Yukon the low water prevented our landing. +We were told, however, that the place contained +one hundred log houses, as well as an old +Episcopal Mission, in which Mrs. Bumpus had lived +and taught the natives for twenty years. Many of +the Eskimo girls are trained as children's nurses +and make very satisfactory ones.</p> + +<p>Into the Yukon Flats empty the Porcupine +River, Birch Creek and other streams. Fort Yukon +was established by the Hudson Bay Company many +years ago, all supplies coming in and shipments of +furs going out by way of the McKensie River and +the great Canadian Lakes.</p> + +<p>Toward evening one day, while the stevedores +were busy handling wood, we went ashore and visited<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> +an Eskimo family in their hut. It was built +on the high river bank among the trees, quite near +the steamer's landing. On the roof of the hut, there +lay, stretched on sticks to dry, a large brown bear +skin. Near by we saw the head of a freshly killed +moose, with the hoofs of the animal still bloody.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="i56" id="i56"></a> +<a href="images/056.jpg"><img src="images/056t.jpg" width="400" height="275" alt="" title="" /></a> +YUKON STEAMER "HANNAH."</div> + +<p>As we stooped to enter the low door of the cabin, +we felt the warmth from the fire in the little Yukon +stove which was placed in the corner of the room. +Next to this was a rude table, on which lay a quarter +of moose meat, looking more or less tempting +to travelers living on canned goods.</p> + +<p>A bed stood in one corner, upon which two or +three little children were playing, and upon a pile +of rags and skins on the floor sat an old Eskimo +woman, wrinkled and brown. These were her children +and grandchildren, and she was spending her +life on the floor of the cabin, watching the little +ones play around her, for she was paralyzed.</p> + +<p>There were no chairs in the cabin, and but few +rude utensils and playthings. A box or tin can, +which had contained provisions, was now and then +utilized.</p> + +<p>After a few moments with the Eskimos, we +backed out into the open air again, for the atmosphere +of the hut was peculiar, and not altogether +agreeable to our southern olfactories. It reminded +us of Mrs. Peary's description of native smells in +Greenland.</p> + +<p>The short path back to our steamer lay through<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> +a poplar grove, and under our feet was spread a +carpet of brown and yellow leaves, which, in the +cool night air, smelled ripe and woodsy.</p> + +<p>Next came Fort Hamlin, where we again saw +some of Uncle Sam's boys, and where we trudged +out through the soft light snow and took some +kodak views.</p> + +<p>Rampart City was reached in the early evening. +One long row of houses upon the south bank of +the Yukon, near the mouth of the Big Minook +Creek constitutes the town. Here empty the Little +Minook, Alder, Hunter, and many other gold-bearing +creeks, and a bustling town sprung up only to +be almost depopulated during the Nome excitement.</p> + +<p>By this time several inches of snow had fallen, +and the ground was freezing. We managed here +to climb the slippery steps of the log store building +in the dusk and buy a pound of ordinary candy, for +which we paid one dollar.</p> + +<p>Again we were in deep water. This time so very +smooth that the hills, peaks, trees and islands were +all mirrored on its surface, and very beautiful.</p> + +<p>The days were now quite short. About five in +the afternoon the electric lights were turned on +through the steamer, fresh coal again piled on the +fires, and we reminded ourselves how comfortably +we were traveling.</p> + +<p>Then the dinner bell rang, and we sat down to +dinner. Some attempt at decoration had been<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> +made, for tall glasses stood in the centre of the +tables filled with ripe grasses and pretty autumn +leaves, but, strange to relate, we were more interested +in the contents of our soup plates and what +was to follow. The cold and bracing air during +our short walks on deck had given us all famous +appetites, and we relished everything.</p> + +<p>After hot soup with crackers, we ate of fresh +fish, three kinds of canned meats, baked or boiled +potatoes, with one other kind of vegetable, canned +tomatoes, corn or beans. Side dishes consisted of +pickles, olives, cheese, sardines, canned fruits, fancy +crackers or biscuits, and afterward came pudding +and pie. These last were made from various canned +fruits, and with the rice, sago or tapioca pudding, +formed most enjoyable desserts. On Sunday nuts +and raisins or apples were added to the menu.</p> + +<p>If we ate with keen appetites, we were not too +much occupied to take note of the passengers +around us. Nearly opposite sat a beautiful woman +with a profusion of auburn hair piled high on her +head. She was fashionably dressed in black silk +or satin, and her white fingers were loaded with +costly rings. As she handed a dish to the man beside +her, her diamonds and other gems sparkled +brightly. Her companion, much older, had a hard +and villainous face. A heavy frown of displeasure +habitually rested upon his brow, and his glance was +shifting and evasive. He was a professional gambler,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> +kept his game running continually, and was +going to Nome.</p> + +<p>At the end of the table sat a tall and pleasant +mannered young Englishman, with blue eyes and +ruddy cheeks. He represented mining interests in +the Klondyke amounting to millions, and was on +his way to London. He was fond of wine, and consorted +chiefly with those who were fast bringing +him down to their level.</p> + +<p>There was the girl with pretty black eyes, lady-like +movements, low voice, and exquisite toilettes. +A blue-eyed, pretty little blonde, with infantile complexion, +small hands and feet, and wearing a tailor-made +suit attracted considerable attention. She +was fond of cigarettes and smoked many times a +day, though she only looked "sweet sixteen." They +were both dance-house girls.</p> + +<p>There was a young and handsome Englishman +in the triggest of dude toggery, but having a squaw +wife and three children, as well as older men at the +head of similar broods.</p> + +<p>The long tables were spread two or three times +at each meal, as several hundred people were to +be fed.</p> + +<p>A different class, and a worst one if possible, was +met with at these late meals. Do you see that short, +fat woman over there with the bleared eyes, and +the neck of a prize fighter? She is a Dawson saloon +keeper, and is now on her way to Nome.</p> + +<p>But there were a number of people on the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> +steamer not properly belonging to this set, and +after supper a few usually gathered in one corner +to listen to each other's experiences in the far +Northwest. Some were tales of hardship, sickness +and death; some of hair-breadth escapes from the +jaws of an Arctic winter, or from shipwreck. One +told of having, two years before, paid $175 for five +sacks of flour in the Klondyke; selling the same, a +few days later, for $500. Stories of rich strikes +were related; how one man, while drunk, was persuaded +by his associates to trade a valuable claim +for one apparently worthless; his indescribable +feelings the next day and until he had prospected +the so-called worthless claim, when it proved ten +times richer than the first one.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="i61" id="i61"></a> +<a href="images/061.jpg"><img src="images/061t.jpg" width="400" height="289" alt="" title="" /></a> +FELLOW TRAVELERS.</div> + +<p>A little middle-aged Norwegian woman told her +story with great gusto. She had sailed from Seattle +two years before with Mayor Woods' expedition, +getting as far as a point on the Yukon River two +hundred miles below Rampart City. Here the low +water prevented their going farther. She, in company +with others, made her way to Rampart as +best she could, rested and "outfitted" for a trip +to Dawson over the ice. Finally, with sleds and +provisions, eight dogs and four men, she started. +It was a journey of about eight hundred miles. +Before leaving Rampart she experimented with fur +sleeping bags, and finally made one in which she +could sleep comfortably on the ice and snow. Rice +and tea were their staple articles of diet, being more<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> +quickly prepared in hasty camps at night, and being +found most nourishing. After a perilous trip of +thirty-five days in the dead of winter, they reached +Dawson in good shape, two days ahead of a party +of men with whom a wager had been made. With +these, and similar stories, we whiled away the long +evening hours by the fire. Many short stops were +made along the river. A few little settlements were +passed during the night. At Holy Cross and Russian +Mission we saw flourishing Catholic schools +for the natives.</p> + +<p>The Yukon was now getting wider and wider, +the water was shallow and more shallow, then suddenly +we felt a heavy jar. The big stern wheel refused +to move,—we were stuck fast on a sand-bar! +Here we remained all day, dreading a hard freeze +which was liable to settle down upon us at any +time, fixing our boat and us in the ice indefinitely. +But we were now in the Aphoon, or eastern +mouth of the Yukon, and near enough to Behring +Sea to get the benefit of the tides; so that in the +early evening we again heard the thud of the big +machines,—the steamer quivered,—the stern +wheel again revolved,—we had entered the Behring +Sea!</p> + +<p>By four o'clock next morning we were in St. +Michael Bay, having covered the sixty miles from +the mouth of the river during the night. Snow +was falling heavily through which we saw the lights +of the harbor, and a number of vessels at anchor.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> +By daylight we counted eleven ships and two revenue +cutters lying under the lee of the island.</p> + +<p>Breakfast was served on board, and an hour later +we went ashore. We now sought the steamer company's +hotel, and had no difficulty in getting good +rooms and seats at table; for we were still in their +care, having bought through tickets to San Francisco. +Here we were to wait for the ocean steamer +"Bertha," which was now nearly due from that +place, and we anxiously watched the weather signs +hoping all would be favorable, and that she would +very soon put in her appearance.</p> + +<p>Our hotel was a new frame building of about +forty rooms, lighted by electricity, having large +halls, pleasant double parlors overlooking the bay, +with a good view of incoming ships from the +north. Just across the street stood an old block +house or fort containing the funny little cannon +used by the Russians over a hundred years ago. +The antiquated lock on the door, the hundreds of +bullet holes in the outer walls, were all quaintly +interesting.</p> + +<p>Half a mile south were stores, a hotel, another +large company's dock, and in good weather we +tramped over there or north the same distance to +the headquarters of a third company. These three +were small settlements by themselves, and constituted, +with their employees, natives and dogs, the +whole population of St. Michael. Good sidewalks +connected these different stations and commanded<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> +fine and extensive views of the surrounding water.</p> + +<p>St. Michael, as an island, is not large, and is entirely +without trees or timber. However, there is +deep, wet moss or tundra everywhere, as one soon +discovers to his sorrow if he attempts to leave the +plank walks. St. Michael Bay, lying between the +island and the mainland on the east, is a fine body +of water. The coast line is well defined with ranges +of mountains zigzagging their cold and snowy +peaks, blue tinted or purple during the day, and +pink in the setting sun.</p> + +<p>St. Michael is the windiest place on earth. After +a few days spent in studying the native dress of the +Eskimos, and in trying to adapt my own dress to +the freakish breezes I concluded that if I stayed at +St. Michael I should dress as they did. If I started +for the eating room with my hat properly placed +on hair arranged with ever so much care, a heavy +beaver cape, and dress of walking length, I was +completely demoralized in appearance five minutes +later on reaching the mess-house. With a twisting +motion which was so sudden as to totally surprise +me, my dress was wound around my feet, my cape +was flung as if by spiteful hands entirely over my +head, causing me to step in my confusion from the +plank walk; while my hat was perched sidewise +anywhere above or on my shoulder. One unfortunate +woman wearing an overskirt covering a +striped cambric sham, was seen daily struggling, +with intense disgust on her face, up the steps of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> +eating house, with her unruly overskirt waving +wildly in the wind.</p> + +<p>But this wind did not keep the Eskimo women +and children at home. Dressed in their fur parkies, +which are a sort of long blouse with hood attachment, +short skirts and muckluks, or skin boots, +they trotted down to the beach daily to fish, standing +on the wet and slippery rocks, regardless of +wind, spray or snow. Here they flung their fish +lines out into the water and hauled the little fish up +dexterously; when, with a curious twitch they disengaged +the finny fellows and tossed them into a +big pan. Little Eskimo children ran on in front of +their mothers, and shaggy dogs followed close behind +at the smell of the fish.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI</h2> + +<h3>COMPANIONS.</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/db.png" width="56" height="150" alt="B" title="B" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">UT there were passengers arriving at +St. Michael each day from different +points bound for Nome.</p> + +<p>At last the side-wheeler "Sadie" was +to leave for Nome, and what a commotion! +Men in fur coats, caps and mittens, +leading dogs of all colors and +sizes, some barking, but all hustled +along with no thought of anything except +to reach Cape Nome as quickly +as possible. At last they were off. A rough, and in +some instances a drunken lot, but all hopefully +happy and sure that they would "strike it rich" in +the new gold fields. Many, no doubt, were going +to their death, many to hardships and disappointments +undreamed of, while a few would find gold +almost inexhaustible.</p> + +<p>Still we waited day after day for the ocean +steamer "Bertha." One Sunday morning we +looked from the hotel windows to see a clear, cold +sky, with sun and high wind. About ten o'clock +we heard a steamer whistling for assistance. She +was small and used for errands by one of the steamship +companies. Still none went to the rescue, +as the gale was terrific. A steam tug started out, +but she passed by on the other side, not caring to +act the part of good Samaritan to a rival. In a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> +few moments the fires of the little steamer were +out,—she was sinking. Through a glass we saw +three men on the roof of the craft—then they +clung to the smokestack. A larger steamer, +though herself disabled, finally reached the three +drowning men. It was not a moment too soon, +for the water was icy, the gale fearful. They were +then hauled in, almost exhausted and frozen.</p> + +<p>It was a wild day. Soon after noon, one of the +two big covered barges in tow by the "Lackme," +already loaded for a start for Nome, began to sink. +The wind came from the north, and little by little +the barge became unmanageable, until at last she +was cut loose and deserted. For an hour we +watched the barge, until, she too, sank out of sight +beneath the waters of the bay.</p> + +<p>Small steamers still came straggling in from +Dawson crowded with passengers going to the new +gold fields, and our tired cooks and stewards in the +kitchens were rushed both day and night. Here +the price of a meal, to all but those having through +tickets to San Francisco, was one dollar, and fifteen +hundred meals a day were frequently served.</p> + +<p>In this hotel we waited two weeks, patiently at +times, restlessly at other times. What would we +do if the Bertha failed to appear? Possibly she +was lost, and now drifting, a worthless derelict, +at the mercy of the winds! Not another boat +would or could carry us, tickets on each one having +long ago been sold. If we should be frozen in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> +all winter, with no way of letting our friends at +home know of our whereabouts for six months, +how terrible would be their anxiety, how hard +for us in this exposed spot near the Arctic Sea! +Many times a day and in the night did this emergency +present itself to us, and we shuddered. +Each day we climbed the hill a quarter of a mile +away to look, Robinson Crusoe like, over the ocean +to see if we could discover the "Bertha."</p> + +<p>In the meantime, with note book and pencil in +hand I often sat in the parlor; and, while occupied +to a certain extent, I gathered sundry bits of information +regarding the gold fields in this wonderful +new Golconda. Two million dollars, it was +said, had already been extracted from the beach +at Nome, and no estimate could be made on what +was still there. The pay streak ran to the water's +edge, and even farther, but just how far, no one +knew.</p> + +<p>Back of this beach spread the tundra, an expanse +of marsh, ice and water, which extends some four +miles inland. The size of the claims allowed by +law is one thousand three hundred and twenty feet +in length, and six hundred and sixty feet in width; +or about twenty acres of land. The insignificant +sum of $2.50 is required to be paid the recorder.</p> + +<p>In the York District the area allowed for claims +is smaller, being five hundred feet in width, and the +length depending on the geographical formation or +creek upon which the claim is situated.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span></p> + +<p>North of Nome there are ninety to one hundred +miles of gold-bearing beach to be worked, and +again to the south a vast stretch of like character +extending to Norton Bay. The tundra, which is +nothing but the old beach, follows the present +shore, and is fully as rich as the surf-washed sands. +More productive and larger than all is the inland +region traversed by rivers and creeks that form a +veritable network of streams, all bordered by gold-producing +soil.</p> + +<p>Anvil Creek, Sunset Gulch, Snow Gulch and +Dexter Creek, near Nome, are all exceedingly rich; +one claim on Snow Gulch having been sold for +$185,000, and another for $13,000.</p> + +<p>Golovin Bay District is situated eighty-five +miles east of Nome City, and is large and very rich. +Fish River is the principal one in this section, and +has innumerable small tributaries running into it, +most of which are also rich in gold.</p> + +<p>Casa de Paga is a tributary of the Neukluk River, +and very rich. On Ophir Creek, claim No. four, +above Discovery, $48,000 was taken out in nineteen +days by the Dusty Diamond Company working seventeen +men. On number twenty-nine above Discovery +on Ophir Creek, seventeen dollars were +taken out a day per man, who dug out frozen gravel, +thawed it by the heat of a coal-oil stove, and afterward +rocked it.</p> + +<p>There was much discussion over the rights of +those claiming mining lands located by the power<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> +of attorney; though the majority of men here +seemed to believe they would hold good, and many +such papers were made out in due legal form.</p> + +<p>At last, on the morning of October ninth, the +"Bertha" really appeared. It was a clear, cold +day, sunny and calm. I ran in high spirits to the +top of the hill overlooking the bay to get a good +view. Sure enough, there lay the "Bertha" on the +bright waters as though she had always been there. +How rejoiced everyone was! How relieved were +those who intended to remain here because of the +additions to the winter's supplies, and how rejoiced +were those waiting to get away? How we +all bustled about, packing up, buying papers and +magazines just from the steamer, sealing and +stamping letters, making notes in diaries, taking +kodak views, saying good-bye to acquaintances, +ad infinitum.</p> + +<p>All were willing to leave. Finally on the afternoon +of the tenth we were stowed into the big +covered barge which was to take us out to the +"Bertha." It was cold and draughty inside, so +we found a sheltered place in the sun on some piles +of luggage, and sat there. As the "Bertha" was +reached, a gangplank was thrown over to the +barge, which came as close alongside as possible, +and up this steep and narrow board we climbed, +clinging to a rope held by men on both decks.</p> + +<p>Our trouble had now begun. We were overjoyed +at making a start at last, but under what<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> +conditions! The river steamer "Hannah" had +been a model of neatness as compared with this +one. On deck there were coops of chickens, and +pens of live sheep and pigs brought from San Francisco +to be put off at Nome, as well as a full passenger +list for the same place. On the way here a +landing had been attempted at Nome, but the surf +had been so tremendous that it could not be accomplished, +and passengers still occupied the staterooms +that we were to have. However, we were +temporarily sandwiched in, and, about four P. M., +said good-bye to St. Michael.</p> + +<p>It was a lovely day and the waters of the bay +were very calm. Along shore in the most sheltered +places were numbers of river steamers and smaller +craft being snugly tucked up for the winter. From +three tall flagstaffs on shore there floated gracefully +as many American flags as though to wish us +well on our long journey out to civilization.</p> + +<p>That night on board was simply pandemonium. +Hundreds of people had no beds, and were obliged +to sit or walk about, many sitting in corners on +the floor, or on piles of luggage or lying under or +upon the tables. Every seat and berth were taken. +Many of the staterooms below were filled from +floor to ceiling with flour in sacks for Nome, as +well as every foot of space in passage-ways or +pantries. Many men were so disorderly from +drink that they kept constantly swearing and quarreling, +and one man, in a brawl, was almost toppled<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> +into the sea. To make things worse, the +stench from the pens of the animals on deck became +almost unbearable, and the wind came up, +making the water rough.</p> + +<p>There was no sleep for us that night. We longed +to reach Nome that we might be rid of some of +these objectionable things, and hoped for an improvement +afterward.</p> + +<p>From St. Michael to Nome, the distance is about +one hundred and twenty-five miles, and the latter +place was reached about eight A. M. A little before +daylight we had been startled by a series of +four sudden shocks or jars, the first being accompanied +by a very distinct creaking of timbers of the +ship, so that some of us rose and dressed; but the +ship had apparently sustained no injury, and we +proceeded on our way. Whether we had struck a +rock, or only a sand-bar, we never knew, for the +ship's men laughed and evaded our questions; but +the passengers believed that the boat had touched +a reef or rock, hidden, perhaps, beneath the surface +of the sea.</p> + +<p>By daylight the animals had been removed to +a barge, and soon after breakfast the Nome passengers +were taken ashore in like manner, for the +surf was so heavy on the beach, and there being no +docks or wharves, it was impossible for a large +steamer to get nearer.</p> + +<p>Away in the distance to the north lay the famous<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> +new gold camp of Nome. Stretched for miles +along the beach could be seen the little white tents +of the beach miners, back of which lay the town +proper, and still back, the rolling hills now partly +covered with snow. Not a tree or shrub could be +seen, though we strained our eyes through a strong +glass in an effort to find them. A few wooden +buildings larger than the rest were pointed out as +the Alaska Commercial Company's warehouses and +offices, near where the loaded barges were tossed +by the huge breakers toward the beach.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 254px;"><a name="i74" id="i74"></a> +<a href="images/074.jpg"><img src="images/074t.jpg" width="254" height="400" alt="" title="" /></a> +ESKIMOS.</div> + +<p>Passengers now went ashore to visit the camps, +but to my great disappointment I was not allowed +to do so on account of the tremendous surf. +When, after watching others, seeing their little +boats tossed like cockle shells upon the sands, and +hearing how thoroughly drenched with salt water +many of the people were while landing, I gave it up, +and remained on board.</p> + +<p>For five days we lay anchored outside, while +stevedores loaded supplies from the "Bertha" on +barges towed ashore by the side-wheeler "Sadie." +For hours the wind would blow and the breakers +and surf run so high that nothing could be done; +then at sundown, perhaps, the wind would die +away, and men were put to work unloading again. +The calls of those lifting and tugging, the rattle of +pulleys and chains, never were stilled night or day +if the water was passably smooth, and we learned +to sleep soundly amid all the confusion.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span></p> + +<p>Next morning the steamer "Cleveland" cast +anchor near the "Bertha." Presently we saw a +small boat lowered over the side and two women +were handed down into it, four men following and +seating themselves at the oars. The ship on which +the women had first sailed had been wrecked on St. +George's Island; from there they were rescued by +the revenue cutter "Bear," transferred to the +"Cleveland," and were now going ashore at Nome, +their destination. As they passed us we noticed +that they sat upright in the middle of the lifeboat, +the hoods of their cloaks drawn quite over their +heads. We were told that one of these women had +come to meet her lover and be married, and we felt +like cheering such heroism.</p> + +<p>Next day the bodies of several men were picked +up on the beach near town. They had started for +Cape Prince of Wales in a small boat and been +overtaken by disaster. Many were dying of fever +on shore, and nurses, doctors and drugs were in +great demand.</p> + +<p>Many tales of interest now reached our ears, but +not many can here be given.</p> + +<p>One of the first American children to open his +eyes to the light of day in this bleak and barren +place—Nome City—was Little Willie S. His +parents lived in a poor board shack or house which +his father had built just back of the golden beach +sands. Here the surf, all foam-tipped, spread itself +at the rising and falling of the tides, and here the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> +miners toiled day after day washing out the +precious gold.</p> + +<p>It was here that Willie's papa, soon after the baby +came, sickened and died. He had worked too long +in the wind and rain, and they laid him under the +tundra at the foot of the hill.</p> + +<p>For a time the baby grew. The mother and child +were now dependent upon the community for support, +but the burly and generous miners did not +allow them to want. Willie was a great pet in the +mining camp; the men being delighted with a peep +of his tiny, round face and pink fingers.</p> + +<p>The little child could have easily had his weight +in gold dust, or anything else, had he wanted it. +Big, shining nuggets had already been given him +to cut his teeth upon when the time came, but that +time never came.</p> + +<p>Willie died one day in his mother's arms, while +her hot tears fell like rain upon his face.</p> + +<p>Then they laid him to sleep beside his papa under +the tundra, where the shining wheat-gold clung to +the moss roots and sparkled as brightly as the frost +and snow which soon covered everything.</p> + +<p>When spring came Willie's mamma found the +baby's tiny grave, and put wild flowers and grasses +upon it, and there they nodded their pretty heads +above the spot where Willie and his papa quietly +sleep.</p> + +<p>Passengers for San Francisco were now coming +on board with their luggage. Several men were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> +brought on board on spring beds, being ill with no +contagious disease. A box containing the body of +a man, who had shot himself the day before, was +placed upon the hurricane deck, lashed down, and +covered with tarpaulins. Strong boxes of gold +bullion, with long, stout ropes and boards attached +in case of accident, were stowed away in as safe a +place as could be found. Copies of the first issue +of the "Nome News" were bought at fifty cents a +copy; size, four pages about a foot square. Beach +sand and pebbles, were handed about in many funny +receptacles,—pickle jars, tin cans, flour sacks,—any +old thing would do if only we had the pleasure +of seeing the golden sand.</p> + +<p>One night about three o'clock the barge brought +the last passengers and freight. The water was +smooth, the moon shone brightly, there was no +wind, and the captain and his mate gave their +orders in quick, stern tones. They were in haste +to leave. They had lingered here too long already. +All were soon hustled on board; the "Sadie" and +her barges moved away; we took a last, long look +at Nome as she stretched herself on the golden +sands of the beach under her electric lights; the +"Bertha" whistled, stuck her nose into the rollers +and steamed away.</p> + +<p>A more majestic old body of water than Behring +Sea would be hard to find; and we remember it +with thanksgiving, for we had no storms or rough<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> +weather during the eight hundred and fifty miles to +Unalaska.</p> + +<p>Right glad was I that we were fortunate in having +a pleasant little party of eight or ten persons, +and our evenings were spent in visiting, spinning +yarns, and singing songs, while some hours each +day were passed on the hurricane deck. Here we +became familiar with the sea phrases commonly +used, and watched the old salts "bracing the mast +arms," "hoisting the jibs," or "tacking," and +could tell when we had a "cross sea," a "beam +sea," or a "sou' wester." As we neared Unalaska +on the Aleutian Islands, the sea became rough, +and we had more wind, but we joyfully sighted +high hills or rocks to the east, and bade good-bye +to old Behring. For three and a half days he had +behaved well, and never will we quietly hear him +maligned.</p> + +<p>Unalaska, sweet isle of the sea! How beautiful +she looked to our eyes which had only seen +water for days! Its bold and rocky cliffs, its towering +peaks snow capped; its sequestered and winding +valleys, and bright, sparkling waterfalls; its +hillsides in all the artistic shades of red, brown, +yellow, green, purple, black and white; its water in +all the tints of blue and azure, reflecting sky that +looked</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"As though an angel in his upward flight,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Had left his mantle floating in mid-air."<br /></span> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span></div></div> + +<p>All, all, greeted the eye of the worn voyager most +restfully.</p> + +<p>Clusters of quaint red buildings were soon seen +nestling under the mountain—that was Dutch +Harbor, and a mile farther on we arrived at the +dock at Unalaska. We would be here twenty-four +hours taking on fresh water, coal, and food, they +told us, and we all ran out like sheep from a pen, +or school children at intermission. We drank +fresh water from the spring under the green hillside; +we bought apples and oranges at the store, +and furs of the furrier; we rowed in a skiff and +scampered over the hills to Dutch Harbor; we +watched jelly-fish and pink star-fish in the water; +we saw white reindeer apparently as tame as cows +browsing on the slopes; we visited an old Greek +church, and were kept from the very holiest place +where only men were allowed to go, retaliating +when we came to the cash box at the door—we +dropped nothing in; we climbed the highest mountain +near by, and staked imaginary gold claims +after drinking in the beauties of the views which encompassed +us; we snapped our kodaks repeatedly, +and then, having reached the limit of our time and +strength, wended our way back to the steamer now +ready to sail.</p> + +<p>Leaving the harbor, we all stayed on deck as long +as possible trying to fix the grandeur of the scenery +in our minds so it could not slip away, and then +Priest Rock was passed, we had turned about eastward,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> +and were in Unimak Pass. Here the wind +blew a gale from the west, on account of which we +were obliged to go below to our staterooms after +watching the sailors lash everything on the hurricane +deck well down in case of storm. After a few +hours we left the Pass, with its precipitous cliffs, +its barren and rocky slopes, its cones of extinct +volcanoes, its rough and deep water, and headed +due southeast for "Frisco."</p> + +<p>Many unpleasant people and things we found on +board as we proceeded, for not all of these had +been left at Nome; but with a philosopher's fortitude +we studied to overlook everything disagreeable, +and partly succeeded. That our efforts were +not a complete success was due partly, at least, to +our early education and large stock of ideality, +and we were really not so much to blame.</p> + +<p>The remainder of our journey was somewhat +monotonous, broken only by drunken brawls at +midnight on deck, waking us from sound slumbers; +or the sight of a whale spouting during the day. +Sometimes a breeze would spring up from the +wrong direction, rolling us for a few hours, causing +us to prefer a reclining posture instead of an +upright one, and giving our complexions a still +deeper lemonish cast; sometimes we were well inclined +to feed the fishes in the sea, and did not; but +at all times we were thankful that matters were no +worse.</p> + +<p>Then, after many days out from Unalaska we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> +began to look for land. Seagulls and goonies had +followed in the wake of our ship, and rested themselves +each day aloft in the rigging. Sails were +now and then seen in the distance, like the spreading +white wings of enormous swans gliding quietly +over the bosom of the deep, and we realized that we +were nearing land. In the darkness one night there +came to us a little white boat containing three men,—one +was a pilot to guide us safely through the +beautiful Golden Gate; the light on Point Bonita +was sighted—we were almost home.</p> + +<p>We were now six weeks out from Dawson and +twenty-one days from Nome; we had no storms, +accidents or deaths on board, and carried five hundred +passengers, as well as three million dollars in +gold. I had been away from home four months +without a day's illness, and during my trip through +Alaska had traveled seventy-five hundred miles, +nearly one-half of this distance alone.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="i83" id="i83"></a> +<a href="images/083.jpg"><img src="images/083t.jpg" width="400" height="296" alt="" title="" /></a> +UNALASKA.</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h2> + +<h3>GOING TO NOME.</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/do.png" width="56" height="150" alt="O" title="O" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">NE beautiful day in the spring of 1900 +I sailed again for Alaska—this time +for Nome from San Francisco. An +English family consisting of the +mother, one son and a daughter were +to accompany me, and we had spent +weeks in making our preparations. We +were taking supplies of clothing, food, +tents and bedding sufficient to last until +some of our numerous plans of work after our arrival +brought in returns. My hope was to meet my +father there, for he had written that he thought he +should go to the new gold fields, where he could do +beach mining.</p> + +<p>I was not above doing any honest work, and felt +confident that I could make my way if I could gain +an entrance into that country. The English people +were all workers, and I had known them for ten +years or more.</p> + +<p>Our steamer was the good ship "St. Paul," belonging +to the Alaska Commercial Company, and +was advertised to sail on May twenty-fifth. When +I laughingly called the attention of one of the owners +of the ship to the fact that that date fell upon +Friday, and many persons objected to sailing upon<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> +that day, he postponed the starting of the "St. +Paul" to May twenty-sixth, and we left the dock +on Saturday afternoon amid the cheers and hand-waving +of thousands of people who had come to +see the big boat off for Nome.</p> + +<p>The steamer was well fitted out, spick and span +in fresh carpets and paint, and crowded to the utmost +capacity for comfort. Every stateroom was +full; each seat at the tables occupied. Not a foot of +space above or below decks was left unused, but +provision was made for all, and the ship was well +manned.</p> + +<p>I was now much gratified to learn that there were +many on board whom I had met before; that the +steward, stewardess and several of the waiters had +been on duty on the steamer "Bertha" during my +trip out from Alaska the fall before, while I was +upon speaking terms with a dozen or more of the +passengers with whom I had traveled from the +same place. Of passengers we had, all told, four +hundred and eighty-seven. Of these thirty-five were +women. There was only one child on board, and +that was the little black-eyed girl with her Eskimo +mother and white father from Golovin Bay whom +I had seen at St. Michael some months before, and +who was now going back to her northern home. +She wore a sailor suit of navy blue serge, trimmed +with white braid, and was as coy and cunning as +ever, not speaking often to strangers, but laughing +and running away to her mother when addressed.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span></p> + +<p>From the day we sailed from San Francisco until +we reached Nome I missed no meals in the dining +salon, a pace which my English friends and others +could not follow, for they were uncomfortably ill +in the region of their digestive apparatus for several +days. I slept for hours each day and thoroughly +enjoyed the trip.</p> + +<p>During the nine days' sail from San Francisco to +Unalaska, a distance of two thousand three hundred +and sixty-eight miles, I studied well the passengers. +We had preachers on board, as well as +doctors, lawyers, merchants and miners, and there +were women going to Nome to start eating houses, +hotels and mercantile shops. There were several +Swedish missionaries; one, a zealous young woman +from San Francisco, going to the Swedish Mission +at Golovin Bay.</p> + +<p>This young person was pretty and pleasant, and +I was glad to make her acquaintance as well as that +of three other women speaking the same tongue +and occupying the next stateroom to mine. The +last named were going to start a restaurant in +Nome. As they were sociable, jolly, and good sailors +for the most part, I enjoyed their society. They +had all lived in San Francisco for years, and though +not related to each other, were firm friends of long +standing and were uniting their little fortunes in +the hope of making greater ones.</p> + +<p>The young missionary was a friend to the other +three, and I found no better or more congenial<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> +companions on board the ship than these four honest, +hard-working women, so full of hope, courage +and good sense as well as Christianity. Little did +I then think that these people, placed by a seeming +chance in an adjoining stateroom, were to be my +fellow-workers and true friends, not only for the +coming months in that Arctic land to which we +were going, but, as the sequel will show, perhaps +for years to come.</p> + +<p>Not many days had passed when we found that +we had on board what few steamers can boast of, +and that was an orchestra of professional musicians +among the waiters. These were men going, with +all the others, to seek their fortunes in the new gold +fields, working their passage as waiters on the ship +to Nome, where they intended to leave it. Three +evenings in the week these musicians, with the help +of several singers on board, gave concerts in the +dining salon, which, though impromptu, were very +enjoyable.</p> + +<p>A sweet and trained singer was the English girl +of our company, and she sang many times, accompanied +by the stringed instruments of the musicians, +much to the delight of the assembled passengers. +When she sang, one evening, in her clear +sympathetic voice the selection, "Oh, Where Is My +Wandering Boy Tonight," there was not a dry eye +in the room, and the mind of many a man went back +to his old home and praying mother in some far +distant state, making him resolve to write oftener<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> +to her that she might be comforted with a knowledge +of his whereabouts and welfare. These evenings +were sometimes varied by recitations from +an elocutionist on board; and a practised clog +dancer excited the risibles of the company to the +extent that they usually shouted with laughter at his +exhibition of flying heels.</p> + +<p>Day after day passed. Those who were continually +seasick had diversion enough. It was useless +for us to tell them a pathetic tale of some one, who, +at some time, had been more ill than they, because +they would not believe a word of it, and it was +equally useless to recommend an antidote for mal +de mer such as theirs. "No one was ever so ill before," +they said. They knew they should die and be +buried at sea, and hoped they would if that would +put an end to their sufferings. We tried at last to +give them comfort by recommending out of former +experiences ship's biscuit, dry toast and pop-corn +as remedies, but only received black looks as our +reward. We then concluded that a diet of tea, coffee +and soup was exactly such a one as the fishes +would recommend could they speak, these favorite +and much used liquids keeping up a continual +"swishing" in one's interior regions, and causing +one to truthfully speak of the same as "infernal" +instead of internal. But they were all tree physical +as well as free moral agents and decided these +things for themselves.</p> + +<p>At last we entered the Japan current and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> +weather was warmer and more enjoyable. On Monday, +June fourth, we saw from the deck a few drifting +logs and a quantity of seaweed, and these, with +the presence of gulls and goonies flying overhead, +convinced us that we were nearing land.</p> + +<p>We were not mistaken. After eating an excellent +six o'clock dinner we went above to find ourselves +between high, rocky cliffs, which loomed up into +mountains not far distant, and we knew we were +again at the Aleutian Islands and in the rough +waters of Unimak Pass. As we drew nearer and +entered the harbor so well land-locked, the sun +dipped low into yellow-red western waters, thereby +casting long shadows aslant our pathway so delicately +shaded in greens.</p> + +<p>The little hamlet of Dutch Harbor nestled cosily +at the foot of the mountains which bordered the +bay, and here numbers of ships lay anchored at rest. +Passing along easily beyond another high mountain, +we were soon at the dock of Unalaska, beside +other great ships in port. Both groups of craft were +evidently waiting for the ice to clear from Behring +Sea before proceeding on their way northward, and +we counted sixteen ships of different kinds and +sizes, the majority of them large steamers. All were +loaded with passengers and freight for Nome. +Scout boats had already been sent out to investigate +and find, if possible, a passage through the ice +fields, and the return of these scouts with good +news was anxiously watched and waited for, as the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> +most desired thing at that time was a speedy and +safe landing on the supposedly golden beach sands +of Nome.</p> + +<p>At Unalaska we spent four days taking on fresh +water and coal, during which time passengers visited +back and forth from the waiting steamers, +many persons having friends on other boats and +each having a curiosity to see if they were faring +as well or ill as he, comparing notes as to the expense +of traveling with the different companies, etc. +Passengers on the "St. Paul" agreed that they +had "no kick comin'," which was one of the commonest +slang phrases, intended to mean that they +had no fault to find with the Alaska Commercial +Company and their steamer "St. Paul." All were +well cared for and satisfied, as well they might be, +with the service of the ship's men.</p> + +<p>Leaving Unalaska the sun shone clear and cold +upon the mountains where in places the sides +looked black from the late fires started in the deep +tundra by miscreants. The tops of the mountains +were covered with snow. Down deep gorges dashed +mountain waters of melting snow and ice, hurrying +to leap off gullied and rocky cliffs into the sea. Their +progress was never impeded. No tree nor shrub +obstructed the way with gnarled old trunks, twisted +roots, or low hanging branches, for none grow in +Unalaska, and the bold dignity and grandeur of +the mountains is never diminished by these lesser +objects.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span></p> + +<p>As our ship sailed out into Behring Sea we were +closely followed by the steamer "George W. Elder," +whose master, an old friend of our captain, had decided +to follow in our wake, he being less familiar +than the latter with Alaskan waters, and having +confidence in the ability of his friend to successfully +pilot both ships to Cape Nome.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="i92" id="i92"></a> +<a href="images/092.jpg"><img src="images/092t.jpg" width="400" height="238" alt="" title="" /></a> +STEAMSHIP ST. PAUL.</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> + +<h3>FRESH DANGER.</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/da.png" width="56" height="150" alt="A" title="A" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">T this plan all the passengers appeared +pleased. We were now entering upon +the most dangerous part of our voyage. +No one knew what was before us. If +our ship should receive serious damage +from the ice floes or bergs with which +we were almost sure to come in contact, +it would be well if we were accompanied +by a sister ship which could +render assistance. If she were in trouble +and we unharmed, we could lend a helping hand +to her; and so none murmured at the unique arrangement.</p> + +<p>Nothing, however, was seen of the much dreaded +ice until about noon on Sunday, June tenth. The +air had been steadily growing colder so that woolen +clothing and fur wraps were in demand. Men thrust +their hands into their pockets, or drew on gloves +while they stamped their feet upon deck to keep +themselves warm in the open air. Soon to our +right lay a great semi-circular field of ice, in places +piled high, looking cold, jagged and dangerous. In +the distance those having field-glasses saw two +clumsy, slow-moving objects which they could +easily distinguish as polar bears on floating cakes +of ice.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span></p> + +<p>By the latter we were soon surrounded, and were +obliged, slowly and cautiously, to pick our way +through towards the narrowest spot, or where the +nearest open water could be seen beyond. Floating +ice now lay all around us, appearing only a few feet +above the water; below it the bergs extended many +times that distance. Sometimes they were small +and looked harmless enough; but many were large, +massive, and full of death-dealing power if urged +against the sides of a ship by the wind or struck +accidentally. Carefully we picked our way along, +watched as we were by every soul aboard the +"Elder" following, until we had successfully made +our way through the ice pack and glided out into +the blue waters beyond. Then came a great shout +from the throats of spectators on both ships, and +praises for the master and his crew who were doing +such good work were loudly sung.</p> + +<p>Immediately our manoeuvres were repeated by +the "Elder," and we watched her with interest equal +to their own; then as she passed the danger point +and swung safely through the ice bergs and out, +both ships, like fresh, uncaged birds, sped lightly +and swiftly over the water northward.</p> + +<p>In a few hours we were awakened from afternoon +naps by the ringing of the ship's bell and found +ourselves again surrounded by floating bergs. A +man in the bow was taking soundings with lead +and line, calling out every few seconds. "No bottom! +No bottom!" and then hauling in the lead<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> +again as the ship crept carefully along. From submerged +floes there was now the greatest danger, +but we gradually drew away from all floating ice +and sailed safely away as before.</p> + +<p>Each Sunday on board the "St. Paul" had been +marked by some religious service conducted by one +of the preachers, while an improvised quartet of +voices led the singing. June tenth service had been +held in the forenoon, when a short sermon had followed +the singing of a few familiar old hymns by +the assembled passengers. Now in the early evening, +while I sat with a few friends in the dining +salon rehearsing hymns for the coming service, +suddenly the ship's bell rang out upon the still night +air. Instantly there came a jar, a quiver, and all +rushed out upon deck to see what had happened. +We had been rudely jostled by an unseen ice floe +while the eyes of the pilot had been occupied by the +ones visible. Several times this happened. We +were in the midst of a sea of ice floes. There was +no visible egress ahead; we must back out, if possible, +as we had come.</p> + +<p>Soon our steamer was stopped for the night, and +religious services were begun in the dining salon. +About one hundred persons were present. Our +quartet sang five or six selections, "Rock of Ages" +and "Throw Out the Life-line" among others. +The preacher offered prayer, read Scripture promises, +and spoke feelingly for twenty minutes. He +talked of our lives being only short spans, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> +length of which depends upon the will of God; and +it is the duty of each soul, he said, to be prepared +to meet its Maker.</p> + +<p>It was a solemn moment for all. Outside the ice +drifted slowly about, thick fog settled over us, the +ship's whistle sounded, and night came on. The +loneliness increased.</p> + +<p>When the speaker had closed his remarks he +asked that the quartet sing "Nearer My God to +Thee," and we sang it. Sweet and firm was the +voice of the English girl now, and when, with uplifted +arm and softly spoken benediction, the minister +dismissed us, it was to go upon deck feeling +stronger and much comforted.</p> + +<p>There was yet no breath of wind stirring. For +this we thanked a kind Providence, for, had the +wind risen, our lives would have been in jeopardy +indeed. In that case the massive ice cakes would +have been blown swiftly and heavily about to crush +all ships like egg-shells and send them to the bottom +of the sea.</p> + +<p>For breakfast we ate yellow corn-bread and +bacon with a relish such as it never gave at home, +and even those who had been seasick for days were +beginning to "get away" with their rations. At +eight in the morning the anchor with its rattling +chain was dropped and we lay in an open spot. An +hour later there was no perceptible motion of the +ship, the sea was smooth as a carpet, and our tired +captain had gone to bed. For forty-eight hours he<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> +had not slept, nor scarcely left the bridge, and the +rest was badly needed.</p> + +<p>Two days we lay anchored in a dead calm, waiting +for the passing ice to open a way for us through +to Nome. Three ships lay near us, as well as two +larger ones out farther in the ice-fields; but the fog +hung grey and persistent over our heads and we +could do nothing but wait. Another concert was +given by the musicians, and as the steamer lay +gently rocking upon the waters of the great sea, +through the open front windows there floated out +to our sister ship the sweet and pleasing strains of +the violins and mandolins.</p> + +<p>Were they telling in lively allegretto movements +of our safe landing on golden shores, and of our +successful achievements followed by a safe and +happy return to home and loved ones? Or were +the adagios mournfully predicting perils, coming +disaster and death? Who could tell? For myself, +I felt that whatever came to me would be in accordance +with the will and wish of a Higher Power, and +it would be all right in any case. My choice was, +of course, from the human standpoint, for life, happiness +and success in the pursuit of gold; but this +with me was not an obstinate nor rebellious sentiment. +Should all these good things be denied me, +I could say, it is well. I felt satisfied that the way +for my going to Alaska had been wonderfully +opened by an Unseen Influence which I had been +taught from earliest childhood to recognize, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> +this belief, which was a firm and abiding one, held +me calm and contented. Night after night I slept +in my berth as soundly as though at home in my +bed, and not even the sudden jolt and quiver of the +icebergs coming often into collision with the ship +caused me to waken.</p> + +<p>The night of June twelfth, about eleven o'clock, +just after having retired, but being still awake, I +heard a sudden and piercing scream. The English +madam with me, being still dressed, rushed upon +deck to find out the cause of the disturbance. Rushing +towards her with pale and frightened face was +her daughter who had been lunching in the dining +salon. An iceberg of immense proportions and +greater height than usual had struck the ship with +a crash, coming up suddenly and most unexpectedly +from underneath the fog bank so that the watchful +pilot was taken unawares. The English girl said +the berg, when alongside the ship, reached the +height of the upper deck and appeared like a huge +mountain of ice from her place at the window. It +was consternation at the sight of what was apparently +sure and speedy destruction which had caused +the woman's scream.</p> + +<p>Investigation was immediately made of the ship's +plates, which, though considerably dented by the +ice, were still, thanks to a kind Providence, intact; +and again I settled myself for the night and slept.</p> + +<p>Next day men were restless. They wanted to be +on their way to Nome. It was not for this that they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> +had paid a large price for their tickets and assurances +that they would arrive early at Nome; and +they agreed that there was no more danger in +steaming ahead than in lying anchored with the ice +bumping into us and liable to break through the +ship's sides at any moment.</p> + +<p>"Will you sign a petition to the captain asking +that he proceed on his way to Nome without further +delay?" asked a friend of me while the "St. +Paul" was anchored and the ice still drifting +around us.</p> + +<p>"They are circulating such a petition, and have +a good many signers, or those who are willing to +sign it, and I wanted to know how you feel about +it," said my friend.</p> + +<p>"What is the matter with the captain? Did they +not announce their confidence in him by coming +aboard this steamer, and has he done anything to +cause them to lose faith in his ability to pilot them +safely through? Has he not brought them on their +voyage thus far without accident?" I asked.</p> + +<p>"Oh, yes, certainly."</p> + +<p>"Then I, for one, shall abide by the captain's +judgment, and remain anchored here so long as +he sees fit to order it. You can say to the others +that I will sign no petition," said I.</p> + +<p>Whether my decision and firmness in the matter +had any weight with others, I know not; but the +petition was dropped, and the captain probably +never knew that such a thing had been proposed.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span></p> + +<p>The morning of June thirteenth the sun shone +out clear and bright. Great fields of ice surrounded +us, and many other ships were also hemmed in at +different places. The "Elder" lay contentedly beside +us. It was not so cold when the fog had lifted, +and the clearer atmosphere made it possible to see +for many miles over the berg-strewn waters. Men +were walking restlessly about on deck trying to +keep their impatience down and their hands and feet +warm. They feared that other ships with hundreds +of passengers would land at Nome before they +could, and that would mean loss, perhaps in many +ways, to them. We were less than two hundred +miles from Nome and could easily make the run +in a day if allowed a free sea.</p> + +<p>By this time the face of the steward began to +show anxiety and he watched the horizon with interest. +Serving, as he did, nearly fifteen hundred +meals daily, he feared a shortage of supplies if the +ship was delayed many days longer. Ten sacks of +flour, and fifteen hundred pounds of meat were used +daily, and other things in proportion. For breakfast +one day ninety dozen eggs were fed to the +people.</p> + +<p>High overhead the stars and stripes were now +hoisted to announce our joy at being delivered from +so many dangers, and at leading the way for others +to follow. No one could pass us, and we would, +after all, be among the first, if not the very first, to +reach Nome.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span></p> + +<p>The captain looked jaded and worn, but happy +and relieved, being able now to get some of the +much-needed rest so long denied him when in the +ice fields. When congratulated by the passengers +upon his skill, for by this time they had entirely forgotten +their discontent of the previous days and +were willing to give him and his crew due praise, +he smiled and thanked them kindly, then went away +to rest.</p> + +<p>Early next morning anchor was dropped at +Nome. At last we had reached our destination. +We had traveled thirty-one hundred and thirty-nine +miles in nineteen days and could have done it in +much shorter time had it not been for the ice. Several +small ships lay at anchor before us, but we were +immediately followed by many large steamers +bringing thousands of people to Nome. The +weather was splendid. Many of the passengers were +in such haste to reach shore than they left without +breakfast; but we waited until ten in the morning +before boarding the "lighter," and I donned a dress +suitable to the occasion. This was cut short, and +was worn with high, stout boots, leggings, warm +coat, cap and veil, with extra wraps for the trip of +two miles to shore.</p> + +<p>Certainly we now presented a very unique spectacle. +We were really a sort of Noah's Ark collection, +with the roof of the Ark omitted. Women in +abbreviated skirts, long rubber boots, golf capes, +caps and sweaters; men covered in long "raglans,"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> +fur coats, "jumpers," or whatever happened to be +at hand; and all rushing pell-mell in the direction +of the lighter, by means of which they hoped to land +on the golden beach of Nome. Baggage there was +in stacks. There were boxes, grips, trunks, army +sacks; everything but babies, bird cages and band +wagons. Passage for an automobile had been engaged +in San Francisco, but at the last moment the +lady accompanying the big machine was suddenly +indisposed and obliged to allow the "St. Paul" to +sail without her.</p> + +<p>The sea was now quite rough. The lighter was +brought close alongside. The rope ladder was +thrown over the side of the ship with its lower end +dangling upon the lighter's deck, and we were told +we could now go ashore.</p> + +<p>This was the moment for which we had longed, +and all were ready, like Cassibianca, minus the fire +and peanuts. The fat widow of the company tied +her bonnet more tightly under her chin, clutched +at her pudgy skirts, and grasping the deck rail, +placed her foot upon the rope ladder to descend.</p> + +<p>"Don't look down!" shouted some one to her, +fearing she might grow dizzy if she did so.</p> + +<p>"Don't hurry; take your time!" called out another.</p> + +<p>"Keep cool and you're all right!" instructed another, +at which time the widow, with fluttering veil, +pale face and eyes starting from their sockets with +fright reached the lowest round of the ladder and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> +stepped to the deck of the lighter. Her bonnet was +awry, the belt of her dress had become unfastened, +while her skirts were twisted around her in some +unaccountable way and her teeth chattering; but +she only drew a long sigh as she sank in a limp +heap upon an army sack marked with big black letters, +and said gaspingly: "This is terrible!" Others +followed her example. Some protested they would +rather stay on the ship or go back to San Francisco +than scramble down that "beastly rope ladder" +swaying as it did back and forth with every motion +of the ship to which it was attached. For myself, I +had never posed as especially courageous, and wondered +how I should get on. But I said nothing. +From watching the others I had learned that to +"make haste slowly" was a good method to follow +in the present case, as a misstep without a firm +hand grip upon the sides of the ladder while descending +would be likely to send one without warning +into the yard wide gulf of boiling waters between +the ship's side and the lighter, as the barge +was literally dancing attendance upon the vessel in +the rough sea.</p> + +<p>Finally everything was ready. All passengers +had left the ship. The lighter was crowded to the +last inch of space; baggage and freight along the +sides, and passengers in the middle, sitting wherever +they could find a box or bag upon which to sit. +A tug boat made fast to the lighter—we said good-bye +to the "St. Paul" and moved away.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span></p> + +<p>"We are bidding good-bye to all comforts now!" +exclaimed an old Nomeite dubiously, "for we +won't find any on shore; leastwise not unless it has +improved more in the last ten months than I think +it has. It was a tough place enough last summer, +and that's no josh either!" looking around him at +the ladies of the party and evidently wondering +what they would think of the celebrated mining +town.</p> + +<p>Many by this time looked sober, but it was not a +hard camp that they feared. They had expected to +find a typical camp with all the attendant evils usual +in such a place, and now they were almost there. In +fact they looked out over the heaps of baggage +towards shore at the long fine of white tents, buildings +of every description from a board shack to a +hotel or large store, and it seemed good in their +eyes—very good. For some unseen reason, as +the barge, following as it did at the end of the long +line from the tug, rode first upon the top of a big +breaker and then below in the trough, there was a +decided longing on the part of some to be on land. +It did not much matter where it was—Europe, +Asia, Africa or "any old place"; but as for this +"confounded, zig-zaggin', heavin' old hulk which is +tryin' its best to take us to Honolulu sideways—I +want no more of it!" growled one man.</p> + +<p>"Give me Nome or I die!" gasped another.</p> + +<p>"No more big water in mine for two years, and +mebbe by that time they will have air ships to fly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> +in," muttered a little man as he lay on his back +among a pile of bags and gulped at something in +his throat he was trying to keep down.</p> + +<p>So the barge bobbed up and down among the +breakers, riding to the crest of a wave with a gliding, +graceful motion, only to reach out beyond it, +and then, as the waters underneath receded, dropping +heavily with a thud and a splash, making one +feel that he was being dealt with most unceremoniously.</p> + +<p>The same thing was again and again repeated, +until we rode as close to the shore as the tug could +take us, then the line was cut, a rope was thrown +us from shore, and with a steam windlass or other +contrivance, we were hauled upon the sands.</p> + +<p>Then a gangplank was speedily pushed out over +the intervening watery space which the passengers +took their turns in crossing until all stood upon the +beach; a few, to be sure, with wet feet, damp clothing +and soggy tempers if some vicious, big breaker +in parting had dashed its white foam-tipped waters +over their heads, but all glad and thankful to arrive +in Nome at last.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2> + +<h3>NOME.</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/dt.png" width="56" height="150" alt="T" title="T" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">HE man who had predicted that we +would find no comforts in Nome +proved himself a true prophet. There +were none. Crowded, dirty, disorderly, +full of saloons and gambling houses, +with a few fourth-class restaurants and +one or two mediocre hotels, we found +the new mining camp a typical one in +every respect. Prices were sky high. +One even paid for a drink of water. +Having our newly found Alaska appetites with us, +we at once, upon landing, made our way to an eating +house, the best to be found.</p> + +<p>Here a cup of poor tea, a plate of thin soup and +questionable meat stew with bread were served us +upon nicked china, soiled table linen and with blackened +steel knives and forks, for the enormous sum +of one dollar a head; which so dumbfounded us +that we paid it without a murmur, backed out the +door and blankly gazed into each other's faces.</p> + +<p>"Such prices will ruin us!" gasped the madam.</p> + +<p>"That table linen! Ugh!" shuddered the young +man.</p> + +<p>"Fifteen cents in California for such a meal!" +growled the English girl in her matter-of-fact way, +and with wide distended eyes; while I found such +amusement in watching the three faces before me<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> +that I barely found breath to remind them of the +two tons of nice things in their own packing cases +at the landing.</p> + +<p>"If only they are soon landed," groaned madam, +and we set off at our best gait to find the cases.</p> + +<p>But we did not succeed. The freight was being +unloaded from the ship, we were told, as rapidly as +it was possible to handle it, but one lighter and +small tug boat in a very rough sea, unloading a +ship two miles off the beach, must have time; and +we waited. Only two or three lighters were to be +had at Nome. Other large steamers were being unloaded, +and hundreds of people were hourly being +landed upon the beach. There was no shelter for +them anywhere, every building was full, and confusion +was badly confounded. To make matters +worse it began to rain. If we could only find our +freight and get our tents, beds, supplies, etc., we +would be all right, but it would be impossible that +day we found, after making repeated excursions +through the freight house and numberless inquiries +at the office.</p> + +<p>Something must be done, but what? I now remembered +some Dawson acquaintances in town +made the fall before while coming down the Yukon +River with my brother. To one family of these I +made my way. They were in the grocery and bakery +business on a prominent corner on First street +and their signboard caught my eye.</p> + +<p>Blessings on the heads of kind Mr. and Mrs. M.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> +of Nome City! They were delighted to see me. +They lived back of the store in one room, which +contained their bed, stove, cupboard, baby-organ, +table, chairs and trunks; but they also owned a one-room +shack next door, which was vacant for a +few days, being already rented to a dentist who +would make some repairs before taking possession. +I could bring my friends and baggage into this without +charge, if I wished, until we secured our freight, +Mrs. M. said kindly, and I pressed her hand in real +gratitude with many thanks.</p> + +<p>"I am almost ashamed to show you the room," +said the kind little woman, as she unlocked the door +of the shack and stepped inside, "but it is better +than no shelter in this rain, and you can have a fire +in the stove," pointing to a small and rusty coal +heater in one corner. "I wish I had some blankets +or fur robes to lend you, but everything I have is +in use. You are welcome to bring in as many +friends as you like if they will share the poor place +with you; and you are quite safe here, too, for you +see the barracks are just opposite," pointing across +the muddy little alley down which a few boards had +been laid for a sidewalk; "and the soldiers are here +to keep order, though they do sometimes find it +rather a hard job."</p> + +<p>Then I thanked the little woman again most +heartily, and, as I took from her hands the door-key +and stepped outside into the rain to bring my +waiting friends and baggage from the freight house,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> +I offered a little prayer of thanks to our good +Father, and hurried away.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="i109" id="i109"></a> +<a href="images/109.jpg"><img src="images/109t.jpg" width="400" height="229" alt="" title="" /></a> +NOME.</div> + +<p>At the steamer's landing all was hurly-burly and +noise. It was now late in the afternoon, still raining +at intervals, and muddy under foot, though the +weather was not cold. Finding my English friends +I told them of Mrs. M.'s kindness and offer of her +room, which they were well pleased to accept with +me, and we gathered up our luggage and started +for the place. Passing through the freight house +on our way to the street, madam said, pointing to +the figures of two woman huddled in a corner:</p> + +<p>"See! Judge R. from the St. Paul has not +found a room yet, and Mrs. R. and her friend, the +nurse, are sitting there, waiting for the judge to +return! His wife is nearly sick, and they have no +idea where they can get a room. Judge R. has been +looking hours for one without success," she said, +in a sympathetic tone.</p> + +<p>"Let us speak to them," said I, going over to +where the ladies sat.</p> + +<p>Hearing their story, and seeing for myself that +both women were cold, hungry and disheartened, +I decided on the spot to share Mrs. M.'s hospitality +with them; made the proposal, which they very +thankfully accepted, and we trailed off up the street +laden with luggage.</p> + +<p>Then madam's son was found, informed of the +situation, asked to bring Judge R. and a few loaves +of bread from the shop, along with the remaining<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> +luggage, to our new camping place in the little +board shack near the barracks.</p> + +<p>Seeing us arrive, and that the three elderly ladies +looked worn and travel-stained, Mrs. M. urged us +to come into her room and take tea and crackers +which she had already placed upon the table. This +invitation the older ladies gladly accepted, while the +English girl and myself looked after our new lodgings.</p> + +<p>Here now was a state of things indeed! The entire +stock of luggage for seven grown persons was +soon deposited in the middle of the floor. The +room of which the shack consisted was about eight +by ten feet square, set directly upon the ground, +from which the water oozed at every step of the +foot. Two small windows, a front and back door, +with the small stove—that was all. These were +our accommodations for the night, and perhaps several +nights and days.</p> + +<p>Then we two set to work with a will. We swept +the floor, we gathered sticks for a fire, we threw +boards down outside the door upon which to walk +instead of in the mud, a pail of water was brought +from a hydrant after paying twenty-five cents for it, +and a box was converted into a table. Luggage +was sorted, lunch baskets were ransacked, while tin +cups, coffee pot, knives, forks and spoons were +found, with a fresh white cloth upon which to spread +the food.</p> + +<p>When Judge R. finally appeared, it was supper<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> +time. He carried a tin fry-pan under one arm, a bag +containing one dozen eggs, and a few slices of ham +on a paper plate, for which articles he had paid the +goodly sum of one dollar and seventy-five cents.</p> + +<p>Waving the fry-pan above his old grey head, the +jolly judge shouted: "See, the conquering hero +comes! Oh, but I'm hungry! Say, how in the +world did you get this place? I hunted four mortal +hours and failed to find a shack, room, or tent for +the night. Four thousand people landed here today, +and still they come. Jerusalem crickets! +What a crowd! Everybody is in from Dan to Beersheba! +We will have fifteen thousand people here +soon if they don't stop coming, and no shelter for +'em!" Then changing his tone and glancing +toward his wife:</p> + +<p>"And how is my dear little wifey by this time?" +tenderly patting Mrs. R.'s white hand, which belonged +to a woman tipping the beam at two hundred.</p> + +<p>"Aren't you glad we came? I am." Then rattling +on without giving his wife a chance to speak, +for her eyes had filled with tears:</p> + +<p>"I think I've got a 'case' already. Claim number +four on D. Creek jumped last winter while +owner was away—jumper won't leave—talked +with owner today—think I'll get the job," said the +hopeful old judge, sitting on an empty cracker box +and eating bread and cheese from his fingers.</p> + +<p>"Eat your supper, dear," to his wife, who was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> +taking nothing, "and you shall have a bed tonight—the +best in Nome City. See! There it is now," +pointing to a big roll of dark brown canvas done up +with a few varnished sticks.</p> + +<p>"A folding cot—new patent—good and +strong. (It'll need to be strong to hold you up, +won't it, dearie?) Now, please take your tea like +a good girl, to brace up your courage. Or would +you like a drop of sherry?"</p> + +<p>To all this Mrs. R. shook her head, but she did +not speak, neither did she attempt to eat, for there +was a big lump in her throat which prevented.</p> + +<p>The rest of our party enjoyed the supper. Some +sat on boxes, others stood up, but we ate ham and +eggs, bread, butter and cheese, tea and crackers, +pickles, jellies and jams, as being the greatest +"comforts" we could find in the camp, and we +made them speedily disappear.</p> + +<p>At last the supper things were cleared away, and +remaining food repacked in the baskets. The patent +cot was unrolled, set up and made ready for Mrs. +R., who was the only one favored with a bed. The +others finally faced the proposition and prepared, +as best they could, their chosen floor spaces for +their beds.</p> + +<p>All slept in their clothing, for we had no bedding +and the night was cold. The two men were banished +to the outer air, where together they smoked +and talked of affairs of the day, while we women +unbuttoned our shoes, took out a few hairpins,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> +cold-creamed our sunburned faces, and then, between +jokes, stories and giggling, we settled ourselves, +with much difficulty and hard snuggling, +among our bags, raincoats, steamer rugs and wraps +on the rough board floor for the night.</p> + +<p>Coming in later, the judge spread his borrowed +fur robe upon the floor beside his wife's cot, covered +himself with one-half of the same, chuckling as +he did so.</p> + +<p>"I'm glad my bones are well cushioned with fat, +and that I'm old and tough and like this sort of +thing. I say, wife, isn't it jolly?" And the portly +and sunny old judge dropped off to sleep to keep +me awake most of the night by his snoring.</p> + +<p>If I slept little that night I did not waste my time. +My brain was busy forming plans of action. It was +not wise to have only one plan, for that one might +fail. Better to have several, and some one of these +would probably succeed. I felt a good deal of +anxiety to know whether my father or brother had +or would come to Nome. If either or both of them +came I would have no further difficulty because I +would work for and with them, but if they did not +come what was I to do?</p> + +<p>I had little money. I would not go home. I +would work. I was a good cook, though I had +never done such work except for our own home +folks. I knew that cooking was the kind of service +most in demand in this country from women, for +my travels in Alaska the year before had taught<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> +me that. I could teach music, and I could paint +passably in water colors and oils; in fact, I had been +a teacher of all three, but in Alaska these luxuries +were not in demand. I could not expect to do anything +in these directions, for men and women had +come to Nome for gold, expected to get lots of it, +and that quickly. They had no time for Beethoven's +sonatas or water color drawings.</p> + +<p>It was now an urgent question of food, shelter +and work with all, and the man or woman who +could the quickest devise ways and means, the one +who saw the needs of the time and place and was +able to supply those needs, was the one who could +make the most money. Of course, being a woman, +I was unable to do beach mining as could a man, +and as many men expected to do. Those who +brought large outfits and plenty of money with +them were immediately obliged to hire help, but it +was generally a man's help, like carpenter work, +hauling and handling supplies or machinery, making +gold washers and sluice boxes, or digging out +the gold in the creeks. None of these could I do. +On the steamer all these things had been well +talked over among ourselves, for others besides +myself were wondering which way they should turn +when they found themselves in Nome.</p> + +<p>As to there being any disgrace connected with +work of any sort—it never entered my head. From +a child I had been taught that work was honorable, +and especially for a woman housework and cooking<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> +were respectable and healthy service. So I had no +pride whatever in the matter; it was only a question +of finding the work, and I did not doubt my ability +to find it somewhere.</p> + +<p>On the voyage from San Francisco I had thought +well of the three Swedish women, and believed they +would succeed in their proposed plan of restaurant +work. I said to myself that if I were obliged to +seek work I should like to be with them if possible; +or, at least, with some of the "lucky Swedes," as +the rich Anvil Creek mine owners were usually designated. +These miners all hired cooks for their +camps, as they kept large numbers of men at work +day and night on the Anvil Creek claims, the season +being so short for placer mining in this country. +Anvil Creek was only four miles away and the "Star +Restaurant," as my friends had already named their +proposed eating-house, would be headquarters for +all the Scandinavians on Anvil and the entire district. +For this reason, and because the three had so +many acquaintances who would bring them patronage, +and because their pleasant faces and agreeable +manners always made friends for them, I felt sure +that they would be able to give me work if they +chose and I so desired. Then, too, there were the +several Dawson families of my acquaintance here, +and I would find them; possibly some of them +might give me work if I asked them.</p> + +<p>However, the first move to be made was to find +our freight and baggage, and a spot upon which to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> +pitch our tents, and the sooner that was done the +better, as the test and cleanest camping places were +fast being appropriated by the newcomers hourly +landing. It was not easy to find a clean, dry spot +for a tent, as I had found the day before that the +black, soggy soil was hardly free from frost a foot +down, and this made it everywhere marshy, as the +water could not keep down nor run off where it was +level. Some one on the steamer who had been in +Nome before had advised us to pitch our tents on +the "Sandspit" at the mouth of Snake River, as +that was the cleanest, driest and most healthful spot +near fresh water that we could find; and my mind +was made up that it was to the Sandspit I would +go. Many had been the warnings from friends before +leaving home about drinking impure water, +getting typhoid fever and other deadly diseases, and +without having any particular fear as to these +things I still earnestly desired a clean and healthful +camping place.</p> + +<p>This, then, was the way I planned during most +of the first night after landing at Nome. If I slept +it was towards morning, when I had become accustomed +to the regular and stentorian snores of the +old judge; or when, for a few moments, after turning +in his sleep, his snorts and wheezes had not yet +reached their loudest pitch; and when my wishes +had shaped themselves so distinctly into plans for +work that I felt relieved and full of confidence, and +so slept a little.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 229px;"><a name="i118" id="i118"></a> +<a href="images/118.jpg"><img src="images/118t.jpg" width="229" height="400" alt="" title="" /></a> +LIFE AT NOME.</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span></p> + +<p>Next day I looked for my father. At the landing, +on the streets, in the stores, at all times I was on +the lookout, though it was a difficult matter to find +any one in a crowd such as that in Nome. I saw +several acquaintances from Dawson the year before, +and people from different steamers that I knew, +but not my father. At nine o'clock next morning +three of us started out to find the Sandspit, with, +if possible, a good camping spot to which we could +take our freight as soon as it was landed, and part +of our number was detailed to stay at the landing +while we investigated. Down through the principal +thoroughfare we pushed our way, now on plank +sidewalk, now in the middle of the street if the walks +were too crowded; but going to the west end of +town till we came to Snake River Bridge, where +we crossed to the Sandspit. At the toll-gate we +easily passed, as all women were allowed to go over +free, men only being charged ten cents toll. Here +we quickly found a clean, dry place on the river +bank a hundred feet below the bridge and two hundred +feet from the ocean, which we chose for our +tents. Now arose the question, would any one +have any objection to our pitching our tents temporarily? +Seeing some men striking camp near by +we asked them. They told us that we could get +permission, they thought, from an old captain near +by on a stranded boat, now being used as an eating-house, +and to him we went. He was not in.</p> + +<p>Going back to the Sandspit, it was decided that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> +I should remain upon the spot, while my companions +went back to the landing. I was to remain +there till some of them came back. This I did, +sitting on a box in the sunshine with my kodak, +umbrella and lunch basket beside me for hours. +When madam returned, saying their search for their +freight was still unavailing, I left her in my place +and again called upon the captain.</p> + +<p>Calling the third time at his boat, I found him +and secured his ready permission to temporarily +pitch our tents upon the sands, for he was an Alderman +with adjoining "town lots," he told us.</p> + +<p>By six o'clock that afternoon a part of madam's +baggage and freight was found, hauled by dog-team +through town to the Sandspit and deposited upon +the ground. Then we bestirred ourselves to get a +tent up in which we could sleep, as I, for one, was +determined not to be kept awake by the judge's +snores another night if I had to work till morning. +The others shared my feelings, and we worked like +beavers till midnight. By that time a small tent +had been put up, boxes of bedding unpacked, as +well as cooking utensils, oil-stoves and foods, so +that we could begin cooking.</p> + +<p>At the continuous daylight we were much +pleased. Coming gradually into it, as we had done +on the steamer, we were prepared for it, but the +advantage of a continuous day to a busy, hustling +camp like this one, had not presented itself to us +until we ourselves attempted to work half the night;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> +then we realized it fully. At nine in the evening a +beautiful twilight enveloped all, restful to nerves +and eyes, but still light enough to read by.</p> + +<p>At ten o'clock it was lighter, and upon the placid +waters of Snake River, only fifteen feet away, lay +quiet shadows cast from the opposite side, clearly +and beautifully reflected. A few small steamers lay +further down stream near the river's mouth, row +boats were tied along the edge of the water, and on +the Sandspit below us was a camp of Eskimos, their +tiny canoes and larger skin boats being hauled upon +shore beside them for safety. At midnight the sun +was almost shining, the air was salt, fresh and clear, +while the sky seemed to hang low and lovingly +above our heads.</p> + +<p>After eating a midnight lunch of our own getting +of bread and butter with hot tea, we deposited ourselves, +still dressed, upon the tops of madam's big +packing cases, from which had been taken pillows +and blankets, and slept soundly till morning, notwithstanding +the fact that the hammers of hundreds +of carpenters were busy around us all night.</p> + +<p>Next morning all felt fresh and invigorated. The +sun shone brightly. In the roadstead two miles +away lay several newly arrived steamers, their deep-toned +whistles frequently sounding over the intervening +waters. It was a beautiful sight and welcome +sound. How easily the long and graceful +breakers rolled and broke upon the sands. With +what music the foam-tipped wavelets spread their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> +edges, like the lace-trimmed ruffles on some lady's +gown, upon the smooth and glistening beach. How +the white tents everywhere looked like doves of +peace just alighted, and the little boats danced up +and down on the river. I was glad to be there. I +enjoyed it. Nothing, not even the hard work, the +storms, nor the bitter Arctic winter which came +afterwards ever effaced from my memory the beautiful +pictures of river, sea and sky repeatedly displayed +during those first novel and busy days at +Nome.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2> + +<h3>THE FOUR SISTERS.</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/di.png" width="56" height="150" alt="I" title="I" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">T was during the first excitement of the +gold discoveries in the Klondyke that +four sisters left their home in Chicago +and started for Dawson. They were +young, hopeful, ambitious and handsome. +They owned a town lot in the +city, but they had not the means with +which to erect a building upon it, and +the money would never be forthcoming +if they remained where they were. +The ordinary salary of a working woman in office +or store was not sufficient to allow them more than +a trifle above necessary living expenses, and they +could see themselves old, wrinkled and grey before +they could hope to attain their desired object.</p> + +<p>Reaching Dawson safely, as they did after weeks +of peril and many novel experiences, they set to +work at what seemed to them at the moment the +most lucrative labor of which they were capable. +They were fitted for laundry work only by being +well and strong physically, and by having a willingness +to do whatever they first found to do.</p> + +<p>This proved to be work at the wash-tub. Here +the four women labored month after month with a +will, with the result that at the end of a year their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> +bank account was not insignificant, they owned +several gold claims, and in all the mining camp +there were none who did not respect the four +sisters.</p> + +<p>Then came their first dark days. It was midsummer. +Down among the grass roots and between +the rocks of the hillside back of the famous +camp, there trickled numerous fresh water springs, +pure and cold when they left their sequestered +sources among the seams and fissures, but gaining +nothing of purity when spread out upon the little +plain now thickly dotted with cabins.</p> + +<p>Here in the hurry and rush of the fast growing +camp, when fortunes came quickly, and men lived +at a rapid pace, there was little time for sanitary +precautions, and so it presently happened that a +shadow, like a huge black bird of ill omen, suddenly +hovered above the camp, sending a shudder +through its entire length. A tiny germ, so small as +to pass unnoticed and unheeded by, and yet withal +so deadly as to be called a plague, crept along, +insinuating itself into the streamlets making their +way as best they could to their father, the Yukon; +and the fever laid low many victims.</p> + +<p>Early and late had the sisters toiled, never in a +half-hearted way, but untiringly, day after day, until +one of their number, being perhaps less strong, or +more weary from work to which she had been unaccustomed, +and more susceptible to disease, was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> +stricken with fever, and after only a few days' illness, +whispered her loving good-byes.</p> + +<p>This happened in the summer of 1899, and +rumors of the great gold strike at Nome now +reached Dawson. One sister had been persuaded +by a member of the Dawson Bar to make for him +a happy home during the remainder of his life, and +she was married.</p> + +<p>Again their party numbered the original four, +though there were now only three sisters.</p> + +<p>The excitement in Dawson regarding the new +Nome gold fields daily increased, and it was stated +by reliable steamer men from St. Michael that the +new strike rivaled that of the Klondyke.</p> + +<p>The little party of four decided to go to Nome. +In a short time their business was arranged, sales +made, gold claims placed in charge of agents, and +everything made in readiness for their journey to +Nome.</p> + +<p>It was the middle of September. The last boats +were leaving Dawson, both for points on the Upper +Yukon and for St. Michael. People leaving +Dawson by boat in the fall seldom linger beyond +the third or fourth week in September, for then the +river may freeze at any time and they be prisoners +in the camp indefinitely.</p> + +<p>The lower river steamer "Hannah" was about +to push from the dock at Dawson when a friend introduced +me to the three sisters, and during the +following days on board an acquaintance sprung<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> +up which I much enjoyed. Little did we know that +this friendship would afterwards be renewed nearly +two thousand miles away, and under circumstances +vastly different from any with which we had before +become familiar.</p> + +<p>Landing safely from the "Hannah" at St. +Michael, a few days were spent by the sisters waiting +for stormy weather to subside, and they then +sailed for Nome. Here they landed during the last +days of September, amid falling snow, bleak winds +and boiling surf, upon the sands of the most inhospitable +beach in all that dreary Northland. No tree +was to be seen. Not a rock under whose friendly +shelter one might hide from the storms. There +was almost no lumber in the camp with which to +build houses, and no incoming steamers expected. +A few rude shacks, tents and saloons, with two or +three companies' buildings—of these was the town +composed. Many were rushing for the steamers in +waiting, determined only upon one thing—to get +home to the States. Some carried heavy sacks of +gold, others went empty-handed. There was the +summer's accumulation of filth in the camp, too +young as yet for cleanly conditions, and these +brought their sure accompaniment—the fever. +Many suffered for weeks with it, and then died.</p> + +<p>Again came the dread plague to the sisters. +Scarcely had they unpacked their trunks or found +shelter for the winter when the younger of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> +sisters was stricken down. For days she raved in +delirium, and all feared she would die. Night and +day they watched anxiously by her bedside. Everything +was done for her recovery and comfort that +could be done in a new and rough camp like the +one at Nome; for all who knew the beautiful little +sister loved her well.</p> + +<p>Then came the time when all the long and heavy +yellow hair had to be cut from the lovely head in +obedience to the doctor's orders. But the little +sister lived. Their prayers were answered, the +worst was over, the danger past.</p> + +<p>Then followed long and weary weeks of convalescing, +while the winter storms raged outside +the little cabin, and the sun retreated farther from +the Arctic Circle and Nome, but the sisters thanked +God, and again took courage.</p> + +<p>Months after came the welcome springtime. +With the earliest fine weather and revival of business +in the camp the sisters erected a store building +and warehouse on the beach near by. Into the +latter they moved temporarily, hoping to rent the +store to some of the numerous "tenderfeet" sure +to arrive on the first passenger steamers.</p> + +<p>It was here I found the sisters on my arrival at +Nome from San Francisco in June, 1900. Little +sister was well and strong again, growing a fresh +crop of roses and lilies on her cheeks, and a new +head covering of lovely, wavy yellow hair. On her +lips she wore the same sweet, old smiles, however,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> +and I knew her well by these. Since her recovery +from the fever the hands of the sisters had not been +idle, and they had become expert at sewing furs. +This had kept them busy as bees all winter, and +many were the caps, coats, mittens and capes made +by their industrious fingers, which brought them +a good income, while their rooms were always the +rendezvous of friends than which a jollier lot could +not be discovered.</p> + +<p>Of the good influence going out through the +rough mining camp during the long and dreary +winter from the home of these sweet and Christian +women, no account has probably ever been kept, +except by the recording angel, who never forgets.</p> + +<p>The day after we landed at Nome I secured work. +Not, however, to begin immediately, which pleased +me well, as I should then have a little time to look +for father, inspect the camp, study conditions and +take notes and kodak views.</p> + +<p>"Can you cook for a gang of men?" asked Mr. +A. kindly smiling down at me when I had stopped +him on the street and asked for work in his camp +for the English girl and myself, as we wished to be +together.</p> + +<p>"Indeed, I can. I will do my very best, Mr. A., +and I feel sure we can please you. My friend is an +extra good cook, as you will discover if you give +us work. Will you try us?"</p> + +<p>"I will," he replied.</p> + +<p>"At what wages, please?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Five dollars per day, each, with board," +promptly answered the gentleman whose two gold +claims on famous Anvil Creek made him one of +the richest men in Alaska.</p> + +<p>So it was settled. Claim number nine, Anvil, +was about seven miles from Nome, and one of the +most noted claims in the district. Mr. A., a former +Swedish missionary at Golovin Bay, had, with his +doctor brother, voyaged to Nome on the "St. +Paul" when we did, so we already had a slight +acquaintance with both gentlemen and were pleased +to get the work.</p> + +<p>Anvil Creek claims had been worked the summer +before. Gold had first been discovered in the +fall of 1898 by Mr. Hultberg, a Swedish missionary, +who learned of the precious metal around +Nome from the Eskimos. His mission was stationed +at Golovin Bay, and he notified the Swedes, +Brynteson, Hagalin, Lindbloom and Linderberg, +who in turn saw G. W. Price and induced him to +go with them, as he was the only one there experienced +in mining. Price was on his way to Kodiak +over the ice by dog-team en route to California, as +the representative of C. D. Lane, the San Francisco +mining man and millionaire.</p> + +<p>The most of Anvil Creek was staked by this +party before they returned to the mines at Council +City, fifty miles up Fish River from Golovin Bay.</p> + +<p>"On July second, 1899, a second cleanup was +made on number one above Discovery Claim, Anvil<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> +Creek, the property of J. Linderberg. The result +of four men shovelling out of the creek bed from a +cut five feet to bedrock for twenty hours amounted +to fourteen thousand dollars in gold dust. The +men shovelled all the gravel from the moss down +to bedrock into the sluice box as it was all pay +gravel. The owner refused five hundred thousand +dollars for the property without considering the +offer."</p> + +<p>Tierney is authority for the statement that this +claim produced four hundred thousand dollars that +season.</p> + +<p>From this time the discoverers were known by +the sobriquet of the "Lucky Swedes," for Anvil +Creek was all good, there being no really "poor +dirt" in it, and number nine, above Discovery +Claim, proved itself, the first summer, also a banner +winner.</p> + +<p>It was here that we expected to work, as soon +as supplies could be hauled to the claim, the +monotony of bread making and dish washing to +be varied by the new and strange sights on an +enormously rich gold claim not far from the Arctic +Circle.</p> + +<p>Everywhere around us were carpenter's hammers +in operation, and tents were rapidly going up. +We found great difficulty in reserving ground +space enough for another tent, as others found the +Sandspit as desirable for tenting as we did, and +elbowed us closely. Along the river's edge and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> +the beach near by many were digging and panning +in the sands searching for "colors." Dog-teams +were hauling freight and baggage, with their swearing +and perspiring drivers at their heels, and while +the big black-snake whips flourished in air above +the dogs or upon their straining backs, the tongues +of the faithful brutes hung from their mouths, and +their wide open eyes looked appealingly at bystanders. +My heart ached for the animals, but there +were no humane societies in Alaska.</p> + +<p>About five o'clock on Sunday afternoon it began +to snow. This was the first June snowstorm I +had ever seen. Our little tent leaked badly, as it +had been hastily pitched, and the snow melted as it +fell. Small rivers of water were soon dropping +upon our heads. Rain coats, oil cloth, and opened +umbrellas were utilized to protect the clothing and +the bedding.</p> + +<p>An hour of this experience would have been +enough for one time, but troubles seldom come +singly, and so the wind began to blow. Donning +her rain coat and rubbers the English girl did her +best to tighten ropes and make the tent taut, for +madam's son had not returned from town. Presently, +to our great joy, we saw him coming with +a loaded dog-team of freight, and best of all, with +a man friend to assist him, whose strong arms and +broad shoulders were well fitted to tent pitching. +Hastily the cart was unloaded and the large canvas +tent unrolled and laid upon the sand. Stakes were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> +driven, poles adjusted, ropes stretched with much +straining, as the wind whistled more vigorously, +and snow still fell; and the two men, both wet and +cold, huddled into the little tent for a cup of hot tea +which was waiting.</p> + +<p>Then strong hands opened more boxes and a +large oil stove, carpets, rugs and many other necessary +things were hustled into the new tent, as well +as trunks, bedding, and the contents of the small +tent, with the exception of canned goods and such +things as water would not injure. The sands were +clean but wet, and if we were thankful for a stout +canvas cover over our heads we would have also +been glad of a dry place under foot. However, +carpets and rugs were spread down, stoves lighted, +and the tent door flap fastened as securely as +possible.</p> + +<p>As well as we could we arranged all for the +night, but we expected to sleep little, for the storm +was now fearful. Rain, snow and hail, each came +down by turns, accompanied by a high wind which +drove the surf in roaring rage upon the beach. How +thankful we were that we had chosen this spot instead +of one directly in reach of the great rollers +with their mist and spray; though we had the roar +and boom of the surf in our ears continually. Sometimes +it seemed that the wind had lulled, and then +with increased violence it again screamed above +our heads, threatening us each moment with disaster.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span></p> + +<p>At midnight a supper of hot macaroni, cocoa, +bread, butter and cheese, with canned meat and +jam, was heartily eaten by all, including the visiting +friend from Sitka who had assisted. A low box +was used for a table and we all sat upon the mats, +eating from tin cups and plates with the keenest +appetites.</p> + +<p>The weather was now awful. The storm had increased +until it seemed each moment that the tent +would be torn from its fastenings, and we be left +without any protection whatever. The ropes and +stakes had frequently to be looked after and made +stronger. The snow had turned to rain, which beat +heavily upon the stout canvas resisting well the +water without leaking.</p> + +<p>By one o'clock the wind showed signs of abating, +and we were so much in need of sleep, that, all +dressed as we were, we rolled ourselves in our blankets +and dozed on the rugs close to the oil stoves. +For an hour I lay uneasily dreaming, or listening +to the royal cannonading of the heavy surf upon +the beach. From my diary I quote the following +extract:</p> + +<p>"Monday, four in the morning, June eighteenth, +1900.—It is four in the morning and we are sitting +around the oil stoves in the middle of the tent. +We have just had hot cocoa and crackers. The +surf still booms, but it does not rain, and the wind +has died down. We are better off than many people. +Tomorrow we will put up the other tent and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> +get more settled. We are thankful not to be on +the sea beach, where so many are camped. A. +wishes herself home again. People around our +tent all night were talking, moving, afraid of the +storm, but the big ships are still here and they +would put out to sea if it were necessary for their +safety. They say we have smallpox in town from +the steamer 'Ohio,' and yesterday Mrs. H., who +came up on the 'St. Paul,' was reported to be +dying from pneumonia. The nurse, Mrs. Judge +R.'s friend, is caring for her. Judge R. and wife +are still in Mrs. M.'s shack near the barracks. It has +been daylight all night. I hope to hear from father +soon, and get my freight. My friends here have all +theirs. The two men are smoking and talking +while I write, and the Eskimo dogs not far away +are howling in their usual interesting nightly manner. +I will now try to get a little more sleep."</p> + +<p>We had heard much of beach mining at Nome, +but saw little of it. Stories were told of men who, +in the summer of 1899, had taken hundreds of dollars +in gold dust from the beach sands by the +crudest methods, and thousands of men were now +flocking into the camp for the purpose of doing +beach mining. They were sadly disappointed. Not, +however, because there was no gold in the beach +sands, but because it was so infinitesimally tiny that +they had no means of securing it. No hand rocker, +copper plate, nor amalgam had been used with +success, neither did any of the myriads of prospective<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> +miners bring anything with them which promised +better results. Great heaps of machinery +called by hopeful promoters "gold dredgers" were +being daily dumped upon the beach from the ships, +signboards were covered with pictures of things +similar, while the papers continually bloomed with +advertisements of machines, which, if speedily secured +by the miners, would, according to the imaginative +advertiser, soon cause all to literally roll in +riches.</p> + +<p>One flaming dodger ran in large letters thus: +"Calling millions from the vasty deep. A fortune +in one hundred days. Our dredger will work three +thousand yards of sand in heavy surf at Cape +Nome. It will take out twenty-four thousand dollars +in a day. You can make more money with us +than by taking flyers in wild-cat oil schemes, etc." +The poster was illustrated by a huge machine +gotten up on the centipede plan; at least, it resembled +that hated insect from having attached to its +frame two sets of wheels of different sizes along +the sides like the legs of a centipede, but with a +steam boiler for a head, and a big pipe for a throat +from which the salt water was disgorged to wash +out this immense amount of sand and give the gold +to the miner. It did not save the gold.</p> + +<p>Thousands of dollars of good, hard-earned +money were dumped upon the beach in the shape +of heavy machines of different kinds, which were +worse than useless, and only brought bitter disappointment<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> +to their owners. Men had stripped the +beach the summer before of all coarse gold which +had, perhaps, been ages in washing up from the +ocean's bed, or down the creeks from the hills, and +only the fine, or "flour gold," as it was called, remained.</p> + +<p>By the newcomers men were cursed for spreading +abroad tales of beach mining of the year before, +but this was unjust, for conditions were not the +same. The waters bringing the gold to the beach +could not, in one season, replenish and leave the +sands as rich as they had been after long years, +perhaps ages of action, and blame could not rightly +be attached to any one. Almost without exception, +the men who did the cursing were the men who had +never been hard workers, and did not intend to be, +and so, after becoming satisfied that the nuggets +were not there to be simply picked up and pocketed, +they turned, looked backward, and went +home. It was well for the new camp that they did.</p> + +<p>There was also much trouble over real estate. +Land was very high in price. Some Swedes, who, +the year before, had paid seven hundred dollars +for a town lot three hundred by fifty feet in size, +now sold one-half of it for ten thousand dollars. +It is small wonder, then, where "possession is nine +points of the law" that men who rightfully claimed +ground were ready to fight to keep it, and those +who were wrongfully in possession many times +stood guard with firearms.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span></p> + +<p>In pitching our tents upon the sandy beach, +especially after gaining permission of the old captain +who told us we would be in the street if ever +a street should be opened through on the Sandspit, +but that was not likely, and he had given us his full +and free consent to our camping temporarily there +next his lots, we expected to have no trouble. Here +we miscalculated. Though the captain was kind +and reasonable, he had a partner who was just the +reverse, and this person gave us infinite trouble.</p> + +<p>Scarcely had our first load of baggage been put +upon the ground when he began to tramp fussily +about at all times of day and night. After our +stakes were driven he would come quietly in the +night and pull them up, so we would find our canvas +flapping in the morning breeze when we waked. +Or, after we had retired for the night, he would +come with some other, stand within hearing distance, +and threaten us if we did not move away.</p> + +<p>One morning, upon rising, we found that he had +moved a long carpenter's bench directly upon the +spot next madam's tent, which I was trying to reserve +for my own tent as soon as I succeeded in +getting my things from the steamer. This disappointed +me much, but I said nothing; and when +my tent finally came I pitched it on the other side, +with my door directly opposite hers and only six +feet from her entrance.</p> + +<p>As to appearance this old man was a jolly sight. +He wore long and tangled hair which had once<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> +been curly, but now hung in unkempt and dirty +shreds upon his shoulders, while his hat was an +antiquated relic of a former life in the States. A +pair of old trousers generally hung by one suspender +over a colored shirt, which, the summer before, +possibly, had had a wash-tub experience, but not +later; his footwear was altogether unmentionable. +He was called well-to-do, and there was no necessity +for him to cut such an abominable figure, so he +soon became a by-word, and was designated as +"sour dough." At all events, he was sour enough, +and kept up a continual siege of torment until he +received a temporary quietus.</p> + +<p>We three women were sitting in the tent one +morning when there came a voice at the door. Going +forward to enquire what was wanted, a man +said gruffly, thrusting a piece of paper into my +hand.</p> + +<p>"A notice from the chief of police."</p> + +<p>"For what?" I inquired.</p> + +<p>"For you, to vacate these premises without +delay."</p> + +<p>"Indeed! Are they to open a street? Will the +other campers about here move also?" I asked.</p> + +<p>"I don't know. My orders are that you shall +move immediately. See that you do it," said the +man rudely.</p> + +<p>While holding the paper in my hands I glanced +over it hastily, and saw the marks of a spurious +document. It was poorly constructed, and bore<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> +no official signs. I recognized it as a counterfeit.</p> + +<p>"We have had permission from captain S., one +of the aldermen, to put our tents here, and we shall +stay unless he orders us away," said I stoutly.</p> + +<p>"You have permission from captain S.?" he +asked in surprise.</p> + +<p>"Yes, sir, from captain S. himself, and you can +say to the chief of police that we shall stay here +until the captain orders us to leave," saying which +I stepped back into the tent.</p> + +<p>The man retreated, muttering to himself as he +went, for he was utterly routed, and never returned; +neither did we hear any more for some time about +moving our tents. It was as I suspected. Mr. +Sourdough had thought to frighten us away, and +the order from the chief of police was utterly +bogus.</p> + +<p>Some time afterward, when madam attempted to +put a floor into her tent, "Sourdough" again put +in an appearance. He threatened, but she held +out, when the obstinate and perverse old man +trotted off down town and secured an officer and +four soldiers to come and put her off. The officer +looked the ground over, inquired if there was room +for teams to pass if necessary, and seeing her tent +in line with many others, he turned to the old man +and said:</p> + +<p>"This tent takes up no more of the street than +the others. This lady has as much right to be here +as any one else. What is the matter with you?<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> +Let the women alone," and he and his soldiers +marched away.</p> + +<p>Mr. Sourdough tore his hair. He was wild with +anger. The floor of madam's tent went down and +stayed.</p> + +<p>Each day I was in the habit of giving my Swedish +friends a call, and found them finally ready to +set up their restaurant tent. A large floor was laid +on Second street near the post-office, the large +canvas stretched over the frame, tables and seats +provided, a corner partitioned off for a kitchen, +dishes placed upon shelves, and they began serving +meals. At this juncture I happened in one day just +before noon and found them rushed with work +and unable to fill their meal orders for lack of help. +Mary was peeling potatoes in haste, while trying to +do other things at the same time, and Ricka and +Alma were flying like bees.</p> + +<p>"Let me peel those potatoes for you," said I, +taking the knife from Mary's hand; and when she +demurred, I told her I really had nothing to do, +and would be glad to assist.</p> + +<p>When the potatoes were peeled, dishes were +heaped up to be cleaned, and I quickly washed +them, feeling that I was of some service, and not +heeding the surprised looks of a few acquaintances +who chanced to catch a glimpse of me at work in +the kitchen through the door.</p> + +<p>This I did each day, coming over after I had +eaten my breakfast, and rolling up my sleeves to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> +my elbows, drove them deep into the dish pan and +hot water.</p> + +<p>Many were the jolly times we now had. How +the jokes flew past each other over the puddings, +and the crisp pies needed almost no other seasoning. +How cheerfully "the boys" brought wood +and water and counted it reward enough if they +only received a smile from little Alma. Many a +man was glad enough, too, to render such service +for a meal or lunch of hot coffee and doughnuts, +especially such good, big, motherly ones as Mary +made, and there was no lack of men helpers. How +the coffee steamed, the hot bread and meats +smoked, and the soup odors tantalized the olfactories +of hundreds of "tenderfeet" with their lusty +Alaska appetites, which were increased by an open +air life such as all in those days were living.</p> + +<p>When at last we were summoned to our work, +on Number Nine, the Swedish women pressed +my hand cordially, leaving a good-sized bill in it +at the same time, saying: "When you get through +on Number Nine come back to us; we need you." +I thanked them gratefully and said good-bye.</p> + +<p>The English girl and myself were soon settled in +our little tent with its clean new floor on the hillside +of claim Number Nine. No tree was to be seen +on the long, rolling hills, and only an occasional +boulder on some summit like Anvil Peak, perched +as a sentinel above us. A few wild flowers bloomed +on the tundra, and the waters of the little stream<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> +gurgled over the soft slate pebbles that strewed its +course; but the season so far was a dry one, and +more water was needed before much could be done +at sluicing. Miners were not happy at the prospect +of a dry season, which meant a stoppage of all mining +operations, and eagerly scanned the heavens +for rain indications. A small force of men were at +work night and day. On Thursday, July twelfth, +eleven hundred dollars in gold dust was taken from +the sluice boxes in the creek, and two days afterwards +twelve thousand dollars, with which the +owner of the claim was much dissatisfied, calling +them small clean-ups.</p> + +<p>A few hundred feet up stream, on Number Ten, +the machinery of C. D. Lane whirred constantly. +On the upper end of Number Nine a small new machine +called a separator was put in by some men +from New York who had taken a lay on the claim; +but this scheme was not successful.</p> + +<p>Seeing men at work prospecting along the +"benches," as the banks of a stream or hillsides are +called by miners, and having a woman's proverbial +curiosity, after my work was done I climbed the +hill to investigate. The prospectors had left after +digging a hole about six feet deep and four square, +evidently having satisfied themselves as to what +the ground contained. Into this hole I descended +to feel of the cold, wet earth and inspect the walls.</p> + +<p>The miners had reached the frost line and gone, +taking with them samples of pretty white quartz<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> +rock, as much of the debris at the bottom of the +hole plainly showed, but whether it contained gold +I knew not. As yet I was a tenderfoot; but something +satisfactory was without doubt found here +and in the vicinity, as quartz claims were staked +over the placer claims the whole length of Anvil +Creek that summer.</p> + +<p>While rambling about in search of flowers during +our afternoon rests, we found many interesting +spots. To the northwest, over the high, bare +ridge, lay Snow Gulch, from which fabulous sums +had the summer before been taken, the blue and +winding waters of famous Glacier Creek lying just +beyond. Walking through the dry, deep tundra +over the hills was warm, hard work, though we +wore short skirts and high, stout boots, and womanlike, +we were always filled to the brim with +questions and ready to rest if we chanced to meet +any one, which was not often.</p> + +<p>Wherever we went, and whatever the hour, we +met with no incivility. Hats were lifted, and men +rested a moment upon their shovels to look after +us as we passed, while frequently some rough +miner swallowed the lump in his throat or wiped a +tear, as he thought of his wife, daughter or sweetheart +far away. We were the only women in the +mines for miles around, but felt no fear whatever, +and indeed we were as safe there as at home, and +there was no occasion for anxiety.</p> + +<p>Life was extremely interesting. Our work was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> +not hard the first few weeks; after that the force of +men was increased. Rich pans of dirt (two shovels +full to a pan) were daily being brought to light. +One pan contained seventy-two dollars and seventy-five +cents, one eighty-three dollars and thirty-five +cents. Big, fat nuggets already melted into +wondrous shapes, but iron rusted, as all Anvil +Creek gold is, for some reason, was discovered +each day. One nugget tipped the scales at thirty-nine +dollars, one at twenty dollars, and one at fifty +dollars, with many others of like value.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, August eighth, the following entry +was made in my diary: "Today has been the banner +day for gold dust. The night's cleanup of +twelve hours' work was a big one—three pans full +of gold. Later—Still more yet. A cleanup of nine +thousand dollars and three of the largest nuggets +I ever saw has just been made this evening. Two +of the nuggets were long and flat, as large as a +tree-toad, and much the shape of one. The men +took the first load of gold dust to town—seventy-five +pounds—but the bank was closed before they +could get the remainder there. The foreman says +they are prepared to keep it here safely over night, +however, and I believe they are, judging by the big +protuberances on their hip pockets."</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2> + +<h3>LIFE IN A MINING CAMP.</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/da.png" width="56" height="150" alt="A" title="A" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">S the rains came to facilitate the sluicing, +more men were added to the force +shovelling in the creeks, and this made +our work heavier. An exceedingly +cranky foreigner, as head cook, presided +over the big coal range in the +mess-house, and we women "played +second fiddle," so to speak. However, +we all had enough hard work, as a +midnight supper for the second force +had to be prepared and regularly served, and at this +we labored alternately.</p> + +<p>Strange to relate, the men at the long tables +soon began to exhibit a very great partiality for the +dishes prepared by the English girl and myself, to +the end that the foreign fellow's black eyes snapped +with anger, and he swore deeply under his breath.</p> + +<p>"He vill eat vat I gif heem. He moose eat it +ven he hoongry, else he starve himsel'. I care not +he no like it, he get nothing other!" the angry man +would exclaim, as the untouched plates of the men +were scraped into the waste box. He would then, +fearing that we would cook some dish more palatable +to the miners, hide the best food, or forbid us +to use certain ingredients as we wished.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span></p> + +<p>Of the culinary stores provided there never could +be a complaint. Everything that money could buy +in the way of fresh meat, potatoes, onions, canned +and dried fruits and vegetables, flour, corn and oatmeals, +were stacked up in the greatest profusion. +From canned oysters, clams and French sardines, +to fine cocoa and cream, all was here found in +quantities, after being hauled in a wagon behind +powerful horses over the seven miles of heavy +roads from Nome. By the time the goods reached +camp they were almost worth their weight in gold, +but one might have supposed them dirt cheap, for +we, as hungry miners and cooks, were never limited.</p> + +<p>Week after week the patient animals and their +driver were kept measuring the distance between +the city and the claim, even though the wet tundra +in low places grew sodden and boggy, and the +wheels repeatedly sank to the hubs. At times more +horses were attached to haul them out of some +hole, or if these were not at hand, certain heavy +cases were dumped off until the reeking, straining +brutes had successfully extricated the load. Covered +with mud and sweat, his high-topped rubber +boots each weighing a number of pounds, and his +stomach too empty to allow of conversation, after +a long, hard day's work, the driver of this team +would fling himself upon one of the benches alongside +our table and say:<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Yes, I'm ready to eat anything. Been caved in +for two hours."</p> + +<p>This young man, as well as the night foreman, +was a cousin of Mr. A., both farmer boys, honest, +kind and true. No oaths fell from their lips, and +no language was used which their own mothers +would ever blush to hear.</p> + +<p>The second of these, the foreman, was dressed +also in great rubber boots, dark blue sweater, and +broad-brimmed felt hat, with a quick eye and ear +for all around him, though he was a man of few +words, which he weighed well before using. His +hip pocket always contained a loaded revolver, and +he was obliged to sleep days after being on duty +nights.</p> + +<p>To eyes so unaccustomed as ours to the sight, +how strange it all looked at midnight. From the +big tent door which faced south and towards Nome +City we could see the blue waters of Behring Sea +away in the distance. Great ships lying there at +anchor, lately arrived from the outside world or +just about to leave, laden with treasure, at this long +range looked like mere dots on the horizon. Between +them and us there straggled over the beach +in a westerly direction, a confused group of objects +we well knew to be the famous and fast growing +camp on the yellow sands. To our right, as well +as our left, rolled the softly undulating hills, glowing +in tender tints of purples and greys, or, if the +moon hung low above our heads, there were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> +warmer and lighter shades which were doubly entrancing.</p> + +<p>Accompanying the low moon twinkled the silver +stars with their olden time coyness of expression. +Little birds, not knowing when to sleep in the endless +daylight, hopped among the dewy wild flowers +of the tundra, calling to their mates or nestlings, +twittering a song appropriate to the time and place +because entirely unfamiliar.</p> + +<p>No other sound was to be heard except the picks +of the miners at work in the stream. No word was +spoken unless the foreman gave some order. Those +sleeping in nearby tents must not be wakened, and +besides the men at the shovels and picks did no +loitering. There were the long sluice boxes to be +filled with what was once the creek bed, from which +the water was now turned in another direction to +await the morning's cleanup of gold.</p> + +<p>At that time the water would be conducted into +the long boxes to wash away the dirt and gravel, +leaving the heavier gold in the bottom. Either Mr. +A. or his brother, with the foreman, attended to +cleaning up the gold. When all the dirt and gravel, +or rock, had been washed out of the sluices, a +whisk broom was used to brush the gold into a +corner of the box, a dustpan conveyed it to broad-mouthed +gold pans close at hand, and these were +carried into the kitchen.</p> + +<p>Here the pans were placed upon the iron range, +big mush spoons were utilized for stirring, and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span> +precious metal was well dried before being +weighed. As soon as possible afterward it was +taken to the Bank of Nome. A tall, black horse +was purchased for this purpose alone, and after a +few such trips the intelligent creature most reluctantly +approached the office where the gold was +kept, having learned of the grievous burden he +would have to bear. Sometimes he would snort, +throw himself and pull back, and in every way show +his unwillingness to proceed.</p> + +<p>But no shirk was allowed here. The horse was +led close to the steps of the office tent, and a +gunny sack tied in the middle brought out by two +men and laid over the back of the unwilling beast. +A rain coat or blanket was flung over the sack, and +the man at the halter started for town, leading the +horse, which walked slowly and resignedly after being +compelled to go.</p> + +<p>A second man, well armed with revolvers like the +first, always accompanied the pair, and when the +three had returned to the claim another cleanup +awaited them. Enormous sums of money were +taken from this claim while we were there, averaging +ten thousand to twenty thousand dollars per +day. Seventy men worked for a time when the +water was at its best, part of that number on the +day force and part at night.</p> + +<p>In August the west bank of the creek was accidentally +pricked and found to be far richer than +the bed of the stream. Nuggets worth many dollars<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span> +were continually unearthed, the largest one +that summer amounting to ninety dollars. The +richest pans contained sixty-four dollars, seventy-two +dollars and seventy-five cents and eighty-four +dollars, with others ranging all the way below.</p> + +<p>From a bench claim next to Number Eleven on +this creek, and only one-fourth of a mile above +us, great heaps of gold were taken from the ground, +no pan carrying less, it was said, than five hundred +dollars.</p> + +<p>From seventy men to wait upon when the stream +was at high water mark, to twenty-five when it was +lower, at any time our lot was hard. We worked +with chapped, bleeding hands and aching backs. +We worked until our tired limbs sometimes refused +to carry us further. By the middle of August the +nights began to grow dark at nine o'clock, and a +hold-up or two took place on the creek. The +weather was rainy and cold, with frosty nights between, +and as we were all in tents, and these sometimes +leaked, which did not improve the head +cook's temper and he grew almost abusive; we retired, +went to town, and left him alone to meditate. +Here he hastily and angrily for a few days longer +tossed up nondescript messes for the men, which +none could eat, and was then discharged in disgrace.</p> + +<p>In all there were fifteen placer claims staked on +Anvil. Some of these were scarcely touched that +summer, but from those operated fully two million<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span> +five hundred thousand dollars were taken in three +months.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="i151" id="i151"></a> +<a href="images/151.jpg"><img src="images/151t.jpg" width="400" height="230" alt="" title="" /></a> +CLAIM NUMBER NINE, ANVIL CREEK.</div> + +<p>During the six weeks we had spent at Number +Nine, many improvements had been made along the +route and in Nome. Where before we had traveled +seven miles we now walked only two, riding on the +new narrow gauge railroad, spoken of there as +Mr. Lane's, the remainder of the way.</p> + +<p>At Discovery Claim, instead of a few straggling +tents, there were eating houses, saloons, store-houses, +a ticket and post-office, and the nucleus +of a town. The cars we boarded were open, flat +cars, with seats along the sides, to be sure, but they +were crowded at one dollar per head to Nome. +After waiting a little time for a start, the whistle +blew shrilly, the conductor shouted "all aboard!" +and we trundled along behind a smoky, sturdy engine +in almost civilized style.</p> + +<p>This was the first railroad in Alaska with the exception +of the White Pass and Yukon road, and +will eventually extend to the southern coast and +Iliamna.</p> + +<p>Next morning, after spending the night on the +Sandspit with madam, I called, bright and early, +upon my Swedish friends in their restaurant.</p> + +<p>"Good morning, Mrs. Sullivan!" cried Mary in +a hearty voice, as she stirred the steaming mush on +the kitchen range.</p> + +<p>"Good morning!" said Ricka more quietly, but<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> +with a pleasant, welcoming smile. "Did you come +from Number Nine?"</p> + +<p>"Good morning!" from Alma, as she poured a +cup of hot coffee for a waiting customer. "Do you +want to help us? We have plenty of work."</p> + +<p>"That's what I came for," said I, laying aside +my hat and coat. "Will you lend me an apron +till I get mine?" glancing toward the kitchen sink +full of unwashed dishes, and the cupboard shelves +quite demoralized.</p> + +<p>"I'll lend you six if you will only help us. We +are so busy serving meals we cannot take time to +get settled," said Mary. "Yes, we moved from the +tent last week," she said in reply to my question.</p> + +<p>"We like this much better. The tent leaked +during the hard rains, and flapped so much in the +wind that we were afraid it would come down upon +our heads. We have had this kitchen built on, and +shall keep open till the last boats are gone for the +winter. That will be two months longer, likely," +and Mary talked on as she dished up the griddle +cakes and the two others waited upon the tables.</p> + +<p>I felt quite happy to have found work so soon, +and that too among friends, and without any particular +responsibility attached to the position. I +would dignify my labor, doing it well and acceptably, +carrying always a sunny face and pleasing +mood. The work was of a kind despised by hundreds +of women, who, after landing at Nome, had +not found agreeable and genteel situations, and so<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> +had gone back home, or, in some cases, done even +worse.</p> + +<p>To be sure, the pay was not large, the work tiresome, +and I would be snubbed by many persons, +but I had not come to Alaska for my health. That +was excellent. Then I had good food in sufficient +quantities, which was always a thing to be considered +in that country. I had a purpose in view which +I never lost. I would get some gold claims.</p> + +<p>The Swedish people were brave and fearless, +as well as patient and strong. I had many +acquaintances among them already. I felt they +were good people to stay with, and they were congenial. +To be sure, a few spoke English with an +accent, and there were no small, white hands +among them; but if the hearts and lives were clean +and true, and so far as I could judge they were so, +I was satisfied.</p> + +<p>The missionaries from Golovin, including the +young lady who had come up on the "St. Paul," +had, with my three friends here, called at Number +Nine at different times during the six weeks of our +stay there. Already a plan had been considerably +discussed which would take a party of us to Golovin +to winter, either in the Swedish mission or near +it, and of all things in mind so far this prospect +most pleased me.</p> + +<p>We would then be fifty miles from the rich Council +City mines on the Fish River Creeks, and only +half that distance from the Topkok diggings, of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span> +which we now heard considerable. Every creek +within many miles around Nome was entirely +staked, but in the vicinity of Golovin we might +hope to secure claims, or, at least, be in a good +position to learn of new gold strikes if any were +made during the coming winter.</p> + +<p>"But we will keep a roadhouse if we go there," +said Alma, "and be making some money. I am +sure there will be many people traveling through +Golovin all winter, and we can make a few dollars +that way as well as any one else. Then we will not +forget how to cook," and the young woman, with +eyes always open to the main chance for "making +money," as she called it, laughed at the bare possibility +of such a thing.</p> + +<p>"We might do that and help in the mission, too, +there are so many of us. I would like to work in +the mission for a change, I think," said Ricka, who +was very religiously inclined and quiet generally.</p> + +<p>"What would you like to do, Mrs. Sullivan?" +asked Mary. "You say so little, and we talk so +much. I want to know what you think."</p> + +<p>"Well, there are three of you to talk, and I am +only one," said I, laughing, as I placed the cups +and saucers, all clean and shining, on the cupboard +shelves. "I should like the mission plan better +than anything, for I have had some experience in +mission work; but if they do not need us there, +then I should like the roadhouse well enough, +though I think if eight or ten of us, each having<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> +enough supplies for himself for the winter, should +form a club and live under one roof, we could do +so more cheaply and comfortably than any other +way, and have a real jolly, good time in the bargain. +These young men, many of them, are intending to +winter here somewhere, and all hate to cook for +themselves, I know, while they would gladly get +the wood, water, and shovel snow, if we did the +cooking and housework. None need to work hard, +and if a rich gold strike were reported, somebody +might want to go and do some staking. In that +way we might get some gold claims," I reasoned, +while all three listened during a lull in the work.</p> + +<p>"That's what we all came to Alaska for—gold +claims. I want three," remarked Alma with complacency, +"and besides, there is plenty of driftwood +at Golovin on the beach which we could have for +nothing, and save buying coal at three dollars a +sack as we do here," glancing at the scuttle near +the range reproachfully, as if the poor, inanimate +thing was to blame for prices.</p> + +<p>Little Alma was keen at a bargain. There was +nothing slow about the grey matter in her cranium. +If there was buying to do, or a commodity to sell, +Alma was the one of the restaurant firm to do it, +enjoying well the bargaining, where she was seldom +outwitted.</p> + +<p>So in the intervals between meals, or at night +when the day's work was done, we discussed our +plans outside the kitchen door next the sea beach,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span> +watching the shipping in the roadstead, admiring +the lovely sky tints left by the setting sun, or gazing +at the softly rolling breakers under a silver-bowed +moon.</p> + +<p>If we had plenty of hard work, with its not altogether +desirable phases, we also enjoyed much beside +the novelty. Some one we knew was always in +from the creeks, principally Anvil, to bring latest +news, as well as to collect the same, and the kitchen +as well as the dining-room, was the constant rendezvous +of friends of one or all of us. Those prospecting +among the hills or on the beach at some +distance from town came in often for supplies and +to visit the post-office, giving the "Star" a call for +hot coffee, if not a supper, before leaving. Jokes +and stories flew about over the tables, and interesting +incidents were always occurring. Good humor +and good cheer flowed on every side along with +the cordial greeting, and tea and coffee, though +nothing stronger in the way of drinks was ever +placed upon the tables.</p> + +<p>In the kitchen we did not lack voluntary assistants +when work pushed, or there was what we +called "a rush." One young man would fill the +water buckets at a neighboring hydrant, another +would bring in coal, and some other would carry +away refuse.</p> + +<p>Happy, indeed, were the great numbers of dogs +fed from the "Star" kitchen. No beggar was ever +turned away. No homeless and discouraged soul,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span> +whether man or woman, sober or drunken, was allowed +to leave as forlorn as he entered. Men often +sat down at the tables, who, when filled with good +food and hot drink, in a warm and comfortable +room fell asleep from the effects of previous stimulants +and sank to the floor. When this happened +some strong and helpful arm assisted such a one +with friendly advice, to the street.</p> + +<p>The two sisters were now our nearest neighbors, +the third and married one having gone with her +husband to live in a new cottage of their own in another +part of the town. The eldest of the two had +kindly offered me lodging in the back part of their +store building of which our restaurant rooms were +a half, and from which we were only separated by +a board partition. This was a temporary arrangement +until I could find something that suited me +close at hand, as I chose to be near my work on +account of going to my room in the evening after +my duties were done. The sisters themselves still +lived in their large warehouse a few feet back from +the store, and between it and the surf which rolled +ceaselessly upon the sands.</p> + +<p>I was now more comfortably lodged than since +I had landed at Nome. My canvas cot, placed in +the back of the store, vacant except for a few rolls +of carpeting, matting and oil cloth on sale by the +sisters, stood not far from the large coal heater in +which fire was kept during the day, making the +room warm and dry when I came in at night. Near<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span> +the foot of my cot a good window admitted light +and sunshine, and a door opened upon a flight of +six stairs into a tiny square yard before one entered +the warehouse, where lived the sisters. This latter +building was made of corrugated iron, on piles, +with windows and a door in the south end looking +directly out upon the water only a few feet away, +and was fitted cosily enough for the summer, but +not intended for anything further except storage +purposes. A second door in the north end, opposite +the one in the store, and only separated from +it by the little yard was the door generally used. +At this time lodgings without fire were worth dollars +a night in crowded Nome, and one's next +neighbors might prove themselves anything but +desirable.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile we worked steadily. Many of the +Anvil Creek mine owners and their men took meals +at the "Star" whenever in town. Some of their +office employees came regularly. Hundreds were +"going outside" on boats, and all was bustle and +excitement. At least twenty-five thousand people +had landed at Nome during the summer, and fully +one-half of them had gone home discouraged.</p> + +<p>On Sunday, September second, there came up a +most terrible storm, which, for the velocity of its +gales, tremendous downfall of rain, terrific surf, +accompanied by great loss of life, as well as length +of duration, had not been equalled for over twenty<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> +years. Never before was the property loss so great +on the Behring Sea coast.</p> + +<p>By nine o'clock Sunday morning the large +steamers at anchor had put far out to sea for safety. +The wind rose, the rain poured. The surf was +growing more rough. At dinner time those who +came in reported the dead bodies of nine men +picked up on the beach. They had attempted to +land from a steamer, and their small boat was +swamped. One of the men drowned was the mate +of the vessel. For days the storm lasted and our +work increased. It was not long before the continuous +rain had penetrated our little kitchen roof +and walls, roughly built as they were of boards, +and from that on we worked in rubber boots and +short skirts tucked still higher. With the storm +at its hardest, I donned a regular "sou'wester," or +water proof hat, rather than stand with the rain +dripping upon my head, and a cape of the same material +covered my shoulders.</p> + +<p>People living in tents when the storm began—and +there were thousands—had been washed out, +or been obliged to leave them, and could not get +their own meals. The "Star" swarmed with hundreds +who had never been there before, as well as +those in the habit of coming. Ten days passed. +Sometimes there would be a lull in the storm for +a few hours and we hoped it was over, but the surf +ran high and could not return before the wind +again lashed it into fury.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span></p> + +<p>One midnight, when I was sleeping soundly after +an unusually hard day's duties in the kitchen, there +came a hasty knock at my door.</p> + +<p>"Let me in quick Mrs. Sullivan, the warehouse, +we fear, is going. We must come in here. +We will bring some more of our things," and little +sister dropped the armful of clothing she carried +and ran back for more.</p> + +<p>Sure enough, as I looked, the water surged up +under the warehouse to the foot of the steps. When +she returned with another load I offered to dress +and assist them, but she said they would only bring +the clothing and bedding, and I better go back to +bed.</p> + +<p>Breathlessly the sisters worked for a time, until +the tide prevented them from again entering the +warehouse, and they made their bed near me on +the floor. When, after watching the waters, they +felt satisfied that they receded, they retired, weary +and troubled, hoping that before another high +tide the storm would have subsided and the danger +would be past.</p> + +<p>By September twelfth the surf was the worst +we had ever seen it, and Snake River had overflowed +its banks. Most of those on the Sandspit +were obliged to flee for their lives. Hundreds +were homeless on the streets. The town's whole +water-front was washed away. Tents not only went +down by hundreds, but buildings of every description<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> +were swept away and flung by the angry surf +high up on the sands.</p> + +<p>Anchored lighters and barges were loosened +from their moorings and came ashore, as did +schooners broken and disabled. Dead bodies were +each day picked up on the beach, which was strewn +with wreckage.</p> + +<p>One dark night, when the rain had ceased for a +time to give place to a fearful gale which tossed the +maddened waters higher and higher, there appeared +upon the horizon a dim, portentous shape. +At first it was only a form, indistinct and uncertain. +As we watched longer, it gradually assumed the +semblance of a ship. Keen eyes soon discerned a +huge, black hulk, of monstrous size when riding +the crest of the breakers, smaller and partially lost +to sight when buried at intervals in the trough of +the sea.</p> + +<p>A ship was drifting helplessly, entirely at the +mercy of the elements, and must soon be cast upon +the beach at our feet. Approaching swiftly as she +was, in the heavy sea, as the violence of the wind +bore her onward, lights appeared as signals of distress, +telling of souls on board in fearful danger.</p> + +<p>In dismay we watched the helpless, on-coming +vessel. We were in direct line of her path as she +was now drifting. If by chance the mountain of +water should, by an awful upheaval, rear the wreck +upon its crest at landing, we would be engulfed in +a moment of time. No power could save the buildings<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span> +which would be instantly shivered to heaps +of floating debris.</p> + +<p>Should we flee for our lives? Or would the wind, +quickly, by some miracle, change its course, and +thereby send the menacing vessel to one side of us +or the other? Groups of patrolmen and soldiers +everywhere watched with anxious eyes, and friends +stood with us to encourage and assist if needed.</p> + +<p>God alone could avert the awful, impending disaster. +He could do so, and did.</p> + +<p>When only a few hundred feet from shore, the +huge black mass, rearing and tossing like a thing +of life in the raging sea, swerved to the west by a +sudden veer of the wind, and then, amid the roar +of breakers angry to ferocity, she, with a boom as +of cannon in battle, plunged into the sands of the +beach only a hundred and fifty feet away.</p> + +<p>The earth trembled. With one long, quivering +motion, like some dumb brute in its death struggle, +the ship settled, its great timbers parting as it did +so, and the floods pouring clean over its decks. +Then began the work of rescuing those on board, +which was finally, after many hours, successfully +accomplished.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2> + +<h3>BAR-ROOM DISTURBANCES.</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/dg.png" width="56" height="150" alt=""G" title="G" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">IRLS, O girls!" shouted Mary from +the kitchen door in order to be +heard above the waters, "Do come +inside!" Then, as we answered her +call and closed the door behind us, +she said: "The danger is over +now, and you can't help those poor +people in the wreck. There are +plenty of men to do that. See! it +is nearly midnight, and we shall +have another hard day's work tomorrow. Go to +bed like good children, do."</p> + +<p>"How about yourself, ma?" said Ricka, carrying +out the farce of mother and children as we +often did, Mary being the eldest of the four.</p> + +<p>"I'm going too, as soon as I get this pancake +batter made, for I'm dead tired. We will hear +the particulars of the wreck at breakfast," replied +Mary.</p> + +<p>"Poor things! How I pity them. What an +awful experience for women if there were any on +board," said sympathetic Ricka, and I left them +talking it over, to roll into my cot, weary from +twelve hours of hard work and excitement.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span></p> + +<p>No anxiety, and no thundering of the breakers +could now keep me awake, and for hours I slept +heavily.</p> + +<p>Suddenly I was wide awake. No dream or +unusual sound had roused me. Some new +danger must be impending. My pulses throbbed. +The clock at the head of my cot ticked regularly, +and its hands pointed to four. The sisters slept +peacefully side by side. The whole town seemed +resting after the intense and continued anxiety +caused by the storm, and I wondered why I had +wakened.</p> + +<p>However, something impelled me to get up, +and, rising quietly from my cot in order not to +arouse the others, I went to the south window +and peered out.</p> + +<p>My heart fairly stood still.</p> + +<p>The waters were upon us! They had already +covered the lower steps at the door not six feet +from the cot on which I had slept. I stood motionless. +If I knew that the waters were receding, +I would go quietly to bed, allowing the +others to sleep an hour longer; but if they were +rising there was no time to lose. None could +reckon on the tides now, for all previous records +had been recently broken. I would wait and watch +a few minutes, I decided, and I wrapped a blanket +around me, for my teeth chattered, and I shivered.</p> + +<p>How cruel the water looked as I watched it creep +closer and closer. How quietly now it swept at<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span> +flood tide up through the piles under the warehouse, +covering the little back yard and the kitchen +steps of the restaurant. With the cunning of a +thief it was creeping upon us in the darkness when +we were asleep and helpless.</p> + +<p>Would the resistless waters persist in our destruction? +Where should we go in the storm if +obliged to fly for our lives?</p> + +<p>Twenty minutes passed.</p> + +<p>Another step was covered while I watched—the +tide was rising.</p> + +<p>Crossing the room now to where my friends lay +sleeping, I touched little sister upon the shoulder.</p> + +<p>"Wake up! Wake up! The tide is coming,—the +water is almost at the door! I have been +watching it for twenty minutes, and I'm sure we +ought to be dressed," said I, trying to keep my +voice steady so as neither to betray my fright nor +startle them unnecessarily.</p> + +<p>Springing from their bed they hurried to the +window and looked out.</p> + +<p>"I should say so!" exclaimed the younger lady +in dismay.</p> + +<p>"These treacherous waters will not give us up. +They want us, and all we possess, and are literally +pursuing us, I believe," groaned Miss S., the +older sister, struggling to get hastily into her clothing. +"But we must waken the girls," she said, rapping +on the intervening wall, and calling loudly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> +for the three other women who still slept soundly +from fatigue.</p> + +<p>With that, we all dressed, and began to pack our +belongings; I putting my rubber blanket upon the +floor and rolling my bedding in that. This I tied +securely, and dragged to the street door, packing +my bags and trunk quickly for removal if necessary.</p> + +<p>In the restaurant none knew exactly what to do. +The water had covered the back steps, and the +spray was dashing against the kitchen door. Underneath, +the little cellar, dug in the dry sand weeks +before, and used as a storing place for tents, chairs, +vegetables and coal sacks, was filled with water +which now came within a foot of the floors. From +sheer force of habit, Mary began building a fire in +the range, and I to pack the spoons, knives and +forks in a basket for removal. Ricka thought this +a wise thing to do, but Alma remonstrated.</p> + +<p>"The water will not come in. You need not be +afraid. If it does, we will only run out into the +street, leaving everything. Let us get breakfast +now, the people are coming in to eat," and this very +matter-of-fact young woman began laying the +tables for the morning meal. It was six o'clock. +The men soon began to pour into the dining room +hungry, wet, and cold. Many had been out all +night assisting in the rescue work or patrolling the +beach, inspecting each heap of wreckage in search +of dead bodies and valuables, for many among the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span> +missing were supposed to have perished in the +storm.</p> + +<p>Three men engaged in rescuing the survivors of +the big wreck of the night previous, had been swept +from the barge alongside, and gone down in the +boiling surf. Searching parties were out trying to +locate a number of men who had started two days +before, during a lull in the storm, against the warnings +of friends, for Topkok to the east. They were +never again seen.</p> + +<p>I had now to find other lodgings, for the sisters +needed their room. Leaving my work for an hour +in the forenoon I tramped about in the mud looking +everywhere within two blocks of the "Star," +for I did not wish to go further away.</p> + +<p>After calling at a number of places, I was +directed to a small hotel or lodging house across +the street from the "Star," and about one and a half +blocks further east. A man and his wife kept the +house, which consisted of eating room and kitchen +on the east side of the lower floor, and a big bar-room +or saloon on the west side. The second floor +was divided by a long narrow hall into two rows of +small rooms for rent to lodgers. The woman +showed me a little room with one window on the +west side.</p> + +<p>"I wish to rent by the week, as I am expecting +to leave town before long," said I, after telling her +my business, and where I was at work. "What +rent do you charge?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Five dollars per week, unfurnished," said she.</p> + +<p>I caught my breath. The room was about eight +feet square, and as bare as my hand. Not even a +shade hung at the window. It was ceiled with +boards around and overhead. I asked if she would +put up a window shade. She said she would when +her husband returned, as she expected him in a few +days from Norton Sound.</p> + +<p>After talking with the little woman she seemed +to wish me to take the room, assuring me that +there were only quiet, decent people in the house, +and the saloon below was closed each day at midnight. +There was a billiard table and piano in the +bar-room; but no window shades, shutters nor +screens of any sort, she said. Her own room was +next this one, and she was always there after nine +o'clock in the evening, so I need not feel timid.</p> + +<p>Upon reflection, I took the room, and paid the +rent. My things could not stand in the street, and +I must have a place in which to sleep at night. It +was high and dry, and far enough away from the +surf, so that I need not fear being washed out. +I would not be in my room during the day, and it +was only for a few weeks anyway. It suited my +needs better than anything I could find elsewhere, +and as for furnishings, I could do without.</p> + +<p>I went back to my work, and had my baggage +and cot sent to the room. I could settle things in +a few minutes in the evening before retiring.</p> + +<p>The surf still boomed upon the beach, and rain<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span> +and mist continued all day, but without wind. For +hours the waters kept close to our floors, but did +not quite reach them. Floating wreckage washed +up at our feet, and two lighters, loose from their +moorings, lodged beside the warehouse at the +mercy of the surf. We were in constant fear that +they would shove the warehouse off the piles +against our buildings, and that would be, without +doubt, the finale.</p> + +<p>In the meantime there was "a rush" indoors +such as we never before had. Many carried hearts +saddened by the loss of friends or property. Some +had not slept for days. At the tables, at one +time, sat two beggars, and a number of millionaires. +Some who had reckoned themselves rich a +few days previous were now beggared. The great +wreck of the night before was going rapidly to +pieces. With a mighty force, the still angry breakers +dashed high over the decks of the ship. Masts +and rigging went down hourly, and ropes dangled +in mid-air, while men unloading coal and lumber +worked like beavers at windlass and derrick, which +creaked loudly above the noise of the waters.</p> + +<p>More and more was the ship dismantled. When +the storm cleared, and the sun came out next day, +the scene was one of wondrous grandeur. Nothing +more magnificent had I ever before beheld. +Great masses of water, mountain high, rolled continually +landward, their snowy crests surmounted +by veils of mist and spray, delicate as the tracery<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> +on some frosted window pane. As the sun lifted +his head above the horizon, throwing his beams +widely over all, each mist-veil was instantly transformed +into a thing of surpassing beauty. It could +only be compared to strings of diamonds, rubies +and pearls. With a fairy's witchery, or a magician's +spell, the whole face of the waters was +changed. Each wrecked craft along the shore, +partially buried in sand, masts gone, keel broken, +and anchor dragged, with the surf breaking over +all, was transformed under the brilliant sunshine, +until no painting could be more artistically beautiful. +Under the fascination of it all we forgot the +anxiety, the labor, and suspense of the last days and +weeks, and every moment of interval between work +we spent at our door next the beach, or after the +falling of the tide, further out upon the sands.</p> + +<p>Many wrecks lay strewn along the beach. +Schooners, barges, and tugs lay broken and helpless. +Untold quantities of debris, lumber, pieces +of buildings, tents, boxes, and barrels, all testified +to the sad and tremendous havoc made by this +great storm.</p> + +<p>In my little room I rested quietly when my day's +work was done. The landlady had taken down an +old black shawl I had pinned to the window, and +hung a green cloth shade of ugly color, and too +wide by several inches. It was better than no +shade, and I said nothing. For a bed I had my +own cot; for a washstand, a box. At the head of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span> +my cot stood two small boxes, one above the other, +and upon these I placed my clock, matches, pincushion, +brush and combs, while below were stowed +away other little things. A few nails on the wall +held my dresses, but my trunk remained packed. +A candle, tin wash basin, and bucket completed +my room furnishings, simple and homely enough to +satisfy the asceticism of a cloistered nun or monk.</p> + +<p>On September twenty-seventh there fell the first +snow of the season. A little had for days been lying +upon the hilltops of Anvil, but none nearer. The +only fire in my room was an oil lamp upon which +I heated water upon going home at night; but with +plenty of blankets and wool clothing I was comfortable +with the window open.</p> + +<p>One evening while going to my room I heard +some one singing in the bar-room. I hurried up +the stairs on the outside of the building, which was +the only way of entrance to the second floor, and +entered my room. Depositing my lighted lantern +upon the floor, I listened. The singing continued. +It was a youthful woman's voice. I would see for +myself. Going quietly out the door, and down part +way to a window crossed by the stairs, I sat down +upon a step and looked into the room below. It +was the big bar-room. It was pleasant and warm, +with lights and fire. Upon the bright green cloth +of the billiard table lay a few gay balls, but no +game was then in progress. The big piano waited +open near by. The bartender stood behind the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span> +bar, backed by rows of bottles, shining glasses and +trays. A mirror reflected the occupants of the +room, some of whom were leaning against the +counter in various attitudes, but the central figure +stood facing them.</p> + +<p>It was a beautiful young girl who was singing.</p> + +<p>A few feet from, and directly in front of the girl, +was her companion, a well dressed and good looking +young man a little older. Both were intoxicated, +and trying to dance a cake walk, accompanying +themselves by singing, "I'd Leave my Happy +Home for You."</p> + +<p>She was singing in a tipsy, disconnected way the +senseless ditty, swaying back and forth to the imaginary +music. Beautiful as a dream, with dark +hair, and great melting eyes, her skin was like +lilies, and each cheek a luscious peach. Her tall, +graceful figure, clad in long, sweeping black draperies, +with white jeweled fingers daintily lifting her +skirts while she stepped backward and forward, +made a picture both fascinating and horrible.</p> + +<p>I sat gazing like one petrified. The girl's laugh +rang through the room. "I'd Leave my Happy +Home for You, ou—ou," she was singing still, +weaving and swaying now from side to side as if +about to fall. Her companion approached and attempted +to place his arm about her shoulders, but +she gave him a playful push which sent him sprawling, +at which she shouted in great glee, dropping +her drapery and flinging her lovely arms above her<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> +head. How the diamonds sparkled on her little +hands I How the men in the bar-room clapped, +swearing she was a good one, and must have another +drink. Someone gave an order, and the bartender +handed out a small tray upon which stood +slender-necked amber-colored glasses filled to the +brim.</p> + +<p>As the girl quickly tossed off the liquor, I +groaned aloud, awaked from my trance, and fled +to my room, where I bolted the door, and fell upon +my knees. God forgive her! What a sight! I +wanted to rush into the bar-room, seize the young +girl, and lead her away from the place and her +companions, but I could not. I had barely enough +room for myself. I had little money. What could +I do for her? Absolutely nothing. If I went in +and attempted to talk with her it would do no good, +for she was drunk, and a drunken person cannot +reason. The men would jeer at me, and I might +be ejected from the place.</p> + +<p>Finally I went to bed. At midnight the singing +and shouting ceased, the people dispersed, the bartender +put out the lights, and locked the doors.</p> + +<p>For the first time since reaching Nome, my pillow +was wet with tears, and I prayed for gold with +which to help lift these, my sisters, from their awful +degradation.</p> + +<p>It was well towards midnight, and I had been +asleep for some time. My subjective mind, ever +on the alert as usual, and ready to share enjoyment<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span> +as well as pain with my objective senses, began +gradually to inform me that there was music in the +air. Softly and sweetly, like rippling summer waters +over mossy stones, the notes floated upward +to my ears. The hands of an artist lay upon the +keyboard of the instrument in the room beneath.</p> + +<p>I listened drowsily.</p> + +<p>With the singing of brooks, I heard the twitter +of little birds, the rustle of leaves on the trees, +and saw the maiden-hair nodding in the glen. I +was a little child far away in the Badger State. +Again I was rambling through green fields, and +plucking the pretty wild flowers. How sweet and +tender the blue skies above! How gentle the far-away +voice of my mother as she called me!</p> + +<p>They were singing softly now,—men's voices, +well trained, and in sweetest harmony:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"I'm coming, I'm coming,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">My ear is bending low.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I hear the angel's voices calling<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Old Black Joe."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>They sang the whole song through, and I was +now wide awake.</p> + +<p>Familiar songs and old ballads followed, the +master hand at the keys accompanying.</p> + +<p>"We are going outside on the Ohio tomorrow," +said one in an interval of the music, "and then, +ho! for home again, so I'm happy," and a momentary +clog dance pounded the board floor.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Have a drink on it, boys?" asked a generous +bystander who had been enjoying the music.</p> + +<p>"No, thanks, we never drink. Let's have a +lively song now for variety," and the musician +struck up a coon song, which they sang lustily. +Then followed "America," "Auld Lang Syne," and +"'Mid Pleasures and Palaces," the dear old "Home, +Sweet Home" coming with intense sweetness and +pathos to my listening ear. No sound disturbed +the singers, and others filed quietly out when they +had gone away. "God bless them, and give them +a safe voyage home to their dear ones," I breathed, +with tears slipping from under wet lashes, and a +great lump in my throat.</p> + +<p>"Thank God for those who are above temptation, +even in far-away Alaska," and again I turned, and +slept peacefully.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h2> + +<h3>OFF FOR GOLOVIN BAY.</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/db.png" width="56" height="150" alt="B" title="B" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">Y October twelfth the weather began +to be quite wintry, with snow flurries, +cold wind, and a freezing ground. All +now felt their time short in which to +prepare for winter, change residence, +and get settled. After many days of +planning, in which eight or ten persons +were concerned, it was finally decided +that we should go to Golovin Bay. +The head missionary, and one or +two of his assistants from that place, had been with +us part of the time during the great storm, so we +were quite well acquainted, and we would be near +the Mission.</p> + +<p>The "boys," as we called the young men for +short, would build a cabin in which the funds of the +women were also to be pooled. Three of the boys +had gone, some weeks before, to Golovin to assist +in the erection of a new Mission Home, twelve +miles further down the coast; but as a shipload of +mission supplies had been lost at sea, including +building materials, their work was much hampered, +and it was not expected that the new home would +be completed, though sadly needed for the accommodation<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> +of the constantly increasing numbers +of Eskimo children for which it was intended.</p> + +<p>In this case, no new helpers could be added to +the missionary force, though Miss L., a tall, intelligent +young woman, was to be placed in the Home +kitchen as cook, and would accompany us to Golovin. +It was decided, then, that the restaurant be +closed immediately before the last boat left Nome +for Golovin, as it would be impossible to get there +after the last steamer had gone until the ice was +solid, and winter trails were good over the hills. +Most of us did not care to remain so long where +we were, and made ready to sail on the small coast +steamer "Elk," scheduled to leave Nome October +eighteenth.</p> + +<p>On the evening of the sixteenth the doors of the +"Star" were formally closed. We had had a rush +up to the last moment, and all hands were completely +tired out. It had been a long pull, and a +steady pull, and the thought uppermost in the +minds of us four women was to get to Golovin and +rest. Even Alma sighed for a vacation from hard +work, feeling that the roadhouse, if they opened +one, must wait until she was rested.</p> + +<p>Mary wished to remain at Nome for a while, and +come later by dog-team when the trails were good. +She would take a day after we had gone to finish +storing away the "Star" outfit for the next summer, +and make the rooms tidy, afterwards visiting +acquaintances, and doing shopping.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span></p> + +<p>For two days after closing the "Star" we were +busy as bees, but at a change of occupation. We +bought food supplies, coal-oil, and warm clothing, +receiving parcels of the latter, including yarns for +winter knitting, at the hands of the stewardess of +the "St. Paul," who had kindly made our purchases +in San Francisco at better prices (for us) than we +found at Nome. Some bought furs, when they +could find them, though these were scarce and +costly, and each person carried his own bedding. +Letters to the outside were written and posted, +mails collected, freight and other bills paid, and +tickets secured on the steamer.</p> + +<p>For my own part, I now found some kindly +helper with strong arms whenever I had a trunk, +bag, or box to lift or transfer, and no remuneration +for services thus rendered beyond a smiling, +"thank you very much," was ever accepted.</p> + +<p>What a strong, hearty, clean, and good-natured +lot were these Swedes. How helpful, sympathetic, +and jolly withal. It was easy for them to see the +clear, bright side of everything, and to turn an innocent +joke on themselves occasionally; for one told +on another is never so effective and enjoyable as a +joke on oneself; but there were often those with +tears in their eyes, and a homesick feeling at their +heart upon bidding farewell to friends who were +leaving for the outside.</p> + +<p>With the approach of a long, hard winter in +the Arctic, so unknown and untried by many, with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span> +a distance of thousands of miles of ocean soon +to roll between them, it was many times difficult to +say a careless good-bye. For those remaining in +Alaska, who could foresee the future? Was it to +be a fortunate and happy one, or would it disclose +only misfortune, with, perchance, sickness and +death? Would these partings be followed by future +happy meetings, or were they now final? Who +could tell?</p> + +<p>Among those constantly sailing for the outside +were those who left regretfully, and those who left +joyfully; there was the husband and father returning +to his loved ones with "pokes," well filled with +nuggets, and the wherewithal to make them more +happy than ever before.</p> + +<p>There were those returning to sweethearts who +daily watched and waited longingly for their home-coming +which would be more than joyful. There +were those leaving who would come again when +the long winter was over, to renew their search for +gold already successfully begun; and they were +satisfied.</p> + +<p>There were many who left the gold fields with discouragement +depicted upon their every feature. +They had been entirely unable to adapt themselves +to circumstances so different to any they had before +known, and they had not possessed the foresight +and judgment to decide affairs when the +critical moments came. Perhaps a fondness for +home, and dear ones, pulled too persistently upon<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span> +the heartstrings; nothing here looked good to them, +and they went home disgusted with the whole +world. Unless a man or woman can quickly adjust +himself or herself to changed conditions, and has a +willingness to turn his or her hand to any honorable +labor, he would better remain at home, and allow +others to go to Alaska.</p> + +<p>If a man goes there with pockets already well +lined, intending to operate in mining stocks, he +still needs the adjustable spirit, because of the +new, crude, and compulsory manners of living. He +must be able to forget the luxury of silver spoons, +delicate hands, soft beds, and steam heat; enjoying, +or at least accommodating himself to the use of +tin spoons, coarse food, no bed, and less heat, if his +place and circumstances for a time demand such +loss of memory.</p> + +<p>A bountiful supply of hopefulness is also necessary, +in order, at times, to make the darkness and +discomfort of the present endurable, and this will +wonderfully cheer and create patience. Thousands +of persons who were ill qualified in these +and other respects had journeyed to Alaska, only +to return, homesick, penniless, and completely discouraged, +who never should have left their home +firesides.</p> + +<p>Not so with the Swedish people. They are accustomed +to a cold climate, hard work, and conditions +needing patience and perseverance, without +great luxuries in their homes, and being strong<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span> +and hearty physically, they are well fitted, both by +nature and practice, for life in the new gold fields +of Alaska. There were more reasons than one for +their success in the far Northwest, and a little +study of cause and effect would disclose the truth, +when it will be found that it was not all "luck" +which made so many successful.</p> + +<p>Our last day at Nome is a confused memory of +trunks, boxes, bags, barrels, dog-teams, tickets, +bills, lunches, tables, dishes, and numerous other +things. Tramping hurriedly through busy, dirty +streets, and heavy, sandy beach, with arms loaded +with small baggage (we had neither parrots nor +poodles) making inquiries at stores and offices, +doing innumerable errands, saying good-byes, and +having good-luck wishes called after us; and then, +when the sun had disappeared for the day, and +night was almost upon us, we turned our backs +upon our summer camp, and hastened to our winter +home.</p> + +<p>At the water's edge small pieces of ice washed +up and down with a clicking sound upon the sands, +as if to give us notice of approaching winter, but +the ocean was almost as smooth as a floor. No +breath of wind disturbed the surface, and only +a gentle swell came landward at intervals to remind +us of its still mighty, though hidden, power.</p> + +<p>Then we were all in readiness to leave. A little +boat was drawn upon the sand. Into it all small +baggage was tossed. It was then pushed out<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> +farther by men in high rubber boots standing in the +water.</p> + +<p>"I cannot get into the boat," laughed Little +Alma, "I will get my feet wet."</p> + +<p>"Not if I can help it," answered a stalwart sailor, +who immediately picked her up bodily and set her +down in the boat, repeating the operation three +times, in spite of the screams and laughter of Miss +L., Ricka and myself. Ricka and I were only of medium +height, but Miss L. was a good six-footer, +and when we were safely in the boat, and she had +been picked up in the sailor's strong arms, if she +did not scream for herself, some of us did it for +her, thinking she would certainly go head first into +the water; but no, she was carefully placed, like +the rest of us, in the boat.</p> + +<p>After getting settled, and the final good-byes +were waved, the men sprang in, those on shore +pushed the boat off; we were again on the bosom +of old Behring Sea. Smaller and fainter grew all +forms upon the shore. Darker and deeper grew +the waters beneath us. The lights of a few belated +steamers, twinkled in the distance, their reflections, +beautiful as jewels, quietly fixed upon the +placid waters. Like a thing of sense, it seemed to +me, the great ocean, full of turmoil, rage, and fury +so recently, it would show us, before we left, how +lamblike, upon occasions, it could be; and all old +scores against it were then and there forgotten.</p> + +<p>A dark form soon lay just before us. "Where<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span> +is the 'Elk,'" I asked of a sailor rowing, looking +about in the gathering darkness which had rapidly +fallen.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="i184" id="i184"></a> +<a href="images/184.jpg"><img src="images/184t.jpg" width="400" height="229" alt="" title="" /></a> +CLAIM NUMBER FOUR, ANVIL CREEK, NOME.</div> + +<p>"There it is," pointing to a black hulk which +lay sullenly, without a spark of light visible, close +to us.</p> + +<p>"But do they not know we are coming? Have +they no light on board? How can we get upon +deck?" we asked anxiously.</p> + +<p>"O, they will bring a lantern, I guess," laughed +the sailor, then thinking to put us at our ease, he +called lustily as he rested himself at his oars. Not +getting a reply, he shouted again.</p> + +<p>Presently two men appeared with as many +lanterns.</p> + +<p>"Here, you fellows, get a move on, and help +these ladies on board, will you? Were you asleep, +hey?"</p> + +<p>"Wall, no, not 'zactly, sah, but I'se done been +working hard today," it was the colored cook replying, +as he rubbed his sleepy eyes.</p> + +<p>"Haul up alongside this dory," said the other +man as he put his lantern down, "and let the ladies +get into that first, then we'll help 'em up here."</p> + +<p>With that we climbed out as we best could in +the darkness, one after another, the boys assisting, +until we all stood laughing in the little cabin, and +counted noses.</p> + +<p>"Are we all here?" asked Mr. G., who, as usual +had a thoughtful care over all.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span></p> + +<p>"All here, I think, but the baggage. How about +that?" said I.</p> + +<p>"I'll see to that," and he was already on deck, +while I continued counting.</p> + +<p>"Alma, Ricka, Miss L., Mr. G., Mr. L., Mr. B., +and myself—the lucky number of seven. How +fortunate we are. We are sure to have good luck. +Too bad Mary is not here, but then we would not +be seven," and we were all laughing and talking at +the same time.</p> + +<p>In the cabin there was only one lamp, and that +was swung over the table, looking in all its smoky +smelliness as if it had hung there for ages without a +scrubbing. The table was covered with dirty +dishes scattered upon an oilcloth spread. The +room smelled of fish, tobacco, and coal-oil, and we +were obliged to go to the door now and then for +fresh air. There was no fire, nor heat, neither was +there a place for any. Rows of berths in two tiers +lined each side of the cabin, but they were supplied +with mattresses only. Dark curtains hung on +wires before the berths, and these would furnish us +with our only privacy on the trip.</p> + +<p>Finally we selected our berths, assorted our luggage, +and sat down to rest. We were disappointed +in the "Elk." She was not a "St. Paul," that was +certain. The colored cook soon entered. His +apologies were profuse.</p> + +<p>"Hope de ladies will 'scuze de state ob dis year<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> +room, but I'se done been mighty busy today, and +will hab tings fine tomorer."</p> + +<p>"That's all right, Jim, if you only give us a good +dinner tomorrow. Can you do it?" asked Mr. L.</p> + +<p>"Yas, sah, dis chile good cook when de tings +are gibben him to cook, but when dere's no taters, +no fresh meat, no chicken, no fruit, den it's mighty +hard to set up fine meals. Dat's de truf!" and Jim +nodded his woolly head emphatically at the frequent +undesirable state of his larder.</p> + +<p>"Prices high heah, sah, but dis old man almos' +fru wid de business; de las' trip ob de 'Elk' dis +summah, an' I'se glad of it," and he disappeared in +the galley carrying his arms full of dishes.</p> + +<p>When the table was cleared and Jim had spread +an old and much rumpled red cover over it, I took +from my basket a small square clock, and winding +it up with its little key, started it going. It was a +musical clock I had purchased when in Nome, of +a small boy about to leave for the outside. It had +been given him by a lady, and he had grown tired +of it, his mind being so much upon his contemplated +long journey. He would sell it for three dollars, +he said, and I paid the money, needing a time +piece, and having none. So now the little music +box ticked off its music to the entertainment of all.</p> + +<p>However, we were all tired and the place was +cold, so after we had taken our last look at the +lights of Nome, scattered as they were along the +shore for miles in the darkness, we turned in for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span> +the night, all dressed as we were, and drew the curtains +around us. The long, deep-toned whistle of +the "Elk," had sounded some time before, and we +were headed east, making our way quietly over the +smooth waters.</p> + +<p>Another chapter of our lives had begun. What +would the end be, I wondered.</p> + +<p>During the night I was awakened by men running +and shouting on deck. The steamer stopped. +Somebody went out to inquire the cause. In a little +while he returned, saying that four men had been +picked up, nearly frozen, in an open boat which +was leaking badly, and they were found just in time. +Dry clothes, with food and hot drinks, and they +would be all right again; so I turned over and tried +to sleep, but the men lounged about, smoking and +talking with the captain a good share of the night, +so that sleep was almost out of the question.</p> + +<p>How I wished for fresh air! How I hated the +tobacco smoke! But we could say nothing, for the +men had no beds, no other place to sit, and it was +too cold on deck. We must be patient, and I was +patient, feeling thankful that the lives of the four +men had been saved, if each one did smoke like a +volcano and come near choking us to death.</p> + +<p>After a while there was another commotion. +What now? Their five dogs had been left in the +leaking dory, which was trailing behind us, the boat +was swamping, and the animals were almost +drowned. They were whining, crying, and soaking<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span> +wet; so the "Elk" was again stopped, the dogs +taken on board, along with some of the miners' +outfits, and we again started on our way.</p> + +<p>The men said their dory had been blown ten +miles out to sea by a wind many hours before, and +had then sprung a leak, wetting their food, and +threatening them with destruction, when the "Elk" +appeared and took them aboard in the night.</p> + +<p>"Wall, yes, we had given ourselves up for lost, +though none said much about it," remarked one of +the saved men next day, in speaking of their experience. +"Some one mentioned God Almighty, +I believe, and I could almost have spoken to Him +myself, but it does look like He had done something +for us, don't it?" said the miner, laughing +quietly, in a pleased, relieved way as he finished.</p> + +<p>We were exceedingly glad for their deliverance +from a watery grave, but we pitied ourselves for +our discomforts, until we pictured ourselves in their +forlorn condition, far out from land, at night, in a +leaky boat, without food and freezing; then I found +myself feeling really grateful for the privilege of +sailing on the "Elk," and not discontented as at +first. We would get fresh air enough this winter, +no doubt, to drive away all remembrances of the +air in the little steamer's cabin, which was cold as +well as foul. There were no windows or ports that +we could see; there was doubtless a closed skylight +somewhere, but to keep warm even in our berths +required management. In my hand luggage I carried<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> +a bright woolen Indian blanket, a souvenir of +St. Michael the year before, in which I now rolled +myself, already dressed in my warmest clothing +and heavy coat.</p> + +<p>A light-weight grey blanket was loaned me by +the cook, who had purloined it from the pilot's +bunk, he being on duty and not needing it that +night. This I was rather chary of using, for reasons +of my own, but it was that or nothing, only +the mattress being underneath. On my head I +wore a pink crocheted affair, called sometimes a +"fascinator," which was now used simply and solely +for service, I assured my friends, and not from any +lighter motive,—but my feet! How I should keep +them comfortable while on board was a question. +With my feet cold I would be perfectly miserable, +and although I wore wool hose and high, stout +laced boots, I soon found on going aboard the +"Elk" that to be comfortable I must make a +change.</p> + +<p>I said nothing, but turned the situation well over +in mind. At last I found a solution. Going to my +bags once more, on the aside I drew out my new +reindeer skin muckluks, or high fur boots, and +looked at them. What enormous footgear, to be +sure. Could I wear those things? I had put five +good, hard-earned dollars into them, and they were +said to be warm and very comfortable when worn +properly, with hay in the bottoms, and Arctic socks<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> +over one's hose, but I had no hay and could not +get any.</p> + +<p>I had the socks in my trunk, but that was in the +hold of the ship, or somewhere out of my reach. +I held the muckluks in my hands, and slowly turned +them round. Suddenly a bright thought came. I +would pull them on over my shoes. I did it. They +went on easily. I drew the strings attached at the +back of the ankle forward over the instep, crossed +them, carried them back, crossed them a second +time and tied them in front, in order to use up the +strings so they would not trip me in walking. Just +below the knees I pulled a woolen drawstring which +was run into the green flannel, inch-wide heading, +and tied this loosely; then I studied them. Shades +of my buried ancestry! What a fright! My own +mother would never know me. I wanted to scream +with laughter, but could not, for I had performed +the operation in a most surreptitious manner, behind +closed doors (bunk curtains), after the others +had retired.</p> + +<p>I had no compunctions of conscience as to putting +my shoes upon the bed, for the mattress was +both sombre and lonely, and as for the muckluks, +they had never been worn by man (and were surely +never made for woman). The most that I could +do was to lie back upon my bed, cram my fascinator +into my mouth, and struggle to suppress my +risibles.</p> + +<p>After a time I succeeded, and lay enjoying the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span> +new sensation of feet and limbs warm and cozy as +if in my mother's warm parlor at home; and then +I slept.</p> + +<p>Next morning I kept my berth late. My sleep +had been much broken, and the place was cold. +The bad air had taken my appetite, and there were +already too many in the small cabin for convenience. +Four or five men and three women besides +our own party of seven, crowded in between the +dining table and the berths, filled the small cabin +quite beyond comfort.</p> + +<p>The main question in my mind, however, was +how to prevent the company from seeing my feet. +I would put off the evil hour as long as possible, +for they were sure to laugh heartily when they saw +my muckluks, and to take them off—I would not. +Some one brought me a sandwich finally, inquiring +at the same time for my health, but I assured them +it was first class,—I was only resting. Watching +my opportunity, toward noon I slipped out of my +berth quietly and made myself ready for dinner, +keeping my feet well out of sight, for cook Jim had +promised a fine spread for the two o'clock meal.</p> + +<p>When it came I was ready. It is said that hunger +is a good sauce, and I believe this is true, for otherwise +I could never have eaten the dinner that day. +Upon a soiled and rumpled white (?) cloth Jim +placed his "big spread," which consisted of whole +jacketed boiled and baked potatoes, meat stew (no<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span> +questions allowed), dried prunes stewed, biscuits, +and fourth rate butter, with tea and coffee.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="i193" id="i193"></a> +<a href="images/map1.jpg"><img src="images/map1t.jpg" width="247" height="400" alt="" title="" /></a> +<a href="images/map2.jpg"><img src="images/map2t.jpg" width="243" height="400" alt="" title="" /></a> +MAP OF ALASKA.</div> + +<p>At only one camp was there a stop made. There +were two or three passengers on board for Bluff +City, a new and prosperous mining camp, composed +chiefly, though so late in the season, of tents. +Lumber and supplies of different kinds had to be +put off. As the entrance to the hold of the ship +where the stores were kept was in our cabin, we had +plenty of fresh air while the doors were all open, +along with the mustiness from below, for several +hours. However, I managed to keep pretty comfortable +and snug in "fascinator" and muckluks, +enveloped as I was in my Indian blanket.</p> + +<p>Hearing a bluff, hearty voice which sounded +familiar, I looked around, and in walked a man +whom I had seen at St. Michael the fall before. +He had charge of the eating house there, where my +brother and I had taken our meals for two weeks. +I had not forgotten his kindness in giving me sore +throat medicine when there had been nothing of the +sort to buy, and I was suffering.</p> + +<p>This man remembered me well, and sat down to +chat for a little while with us. He was a miner now, +and a successful one, he said, for he was taking out +"big money" from his lay on Daniels Creek, only +five minutes' walk from the beach. I had been informed +of his good fortune before meeting him, so +was ready with congratulations.</p> + +<p>He told me of his cabin building, his winter's<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span> +stores and fuel, and seemed in high spirits. Of +course I could not ask him what he meant by "big +money," or what he had taken from his claim, although +it would not here, as in the Klondyke, be +a breach of etiquette to inquire. After a few minutes +chat the man bade us good-bye, and descended +to the small boat alongside, which was to carry him +and his freight ashore.</p> + +<p>It was nearly dark by this time, and another +night must be passed on board. Some were complaining +of the cold. Others were shuffling their +feet to get them warm.</p> + +<p>"My feet are awfully cold," said Alma, moving +them uneasily about. "Aren't yours, Mrs. Sullivan?"</p> + +<p>"Not at all," I replied, trying to look unconcerned, +at the same time putting my feet further +under my skirts, which were not the very short +ones I had worn at Nome. "You know what having +cold feet in this country means, I suppose, +Alma?"</p> + +<p>"O, I am not in the least homesick, if that is +what you mean. I am perfectly happy; but—" +(here she glanced down upon the floor in the direction +of my feet) "what have you over your shoes, +any way, to keep so warm, Mrs. Sullivan?"</p> + +<p>There was no help for it, and the muckluks had +to come to light, and did. At sight of them they +all shouted, and Alma laughed till the tears ran +down her cheeks.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span></p> + +<p>"And you have had these on all day without our +seeing them? Where have you kept your feet, in +your pocket?" she persisted.</p> + +<p>"Well, no, not exactly, but of course, under the +circumstances, you could hardly expect me to hang +a signboard out to call attention to them, could +you?" I laughed.</p> + +<p>"I should say not. Will we all look like that in +muckluks? Is there nothing else we can wear this +winter? They will make our feet look so awfully +large, you see?"</p> + +<p>"That's the way we will all look, only a good +deal worse, for some of us have no skirts to cover +them with, as you have," spoke up Mr. G. for the +first time.</p> + +<p>"I thought the 'Elk' leaned to the land side +more today than usual," said Mr. B. with a twinkle, +"but now it is explained."</p> + +<p>"Bad boy! My muckluks were on that side of +the ship from the first, only they were in my bag +for a while. They are no heavier now than they +were then. You shall have no supper," said I, with +mock severity.</p> + +<p>So I kept the fur boots on, in spite of their jokes, +wondering what they would say when I arrived at +Golovin and removed my fascinator (another surprise +I was keeping for them), and contented myself +by thinking I had the laugh on them, when they +complained of cold feet, and my own were so perfectly +comfortable.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span></p> + +<p>At last, on the morning of October twentieth, +with the sun just rising over the snowy hills surrounding +the water, the cliffs on both sides of the +entrance standing out clear and sharp in the cold +morning light, and with one ship already there, we +dropped anchor, being in Golovin Bay. The settlement, +a score of houses, a hotel, a flagstaff or two, +and the Mission.</p> + +<p>I now waked the girls, who turned out of their +bunks, dressed as they had been since coming on +board the "Elk," and we made ready to go ashore. +We were out in deep water, still some distance from +the beach, and must again get out into a small boat, +probably for the last time this year. Not all could +get into the boat; we must take turns, but we were +bundled into it some way, and soon we were upon +the sands, a dozen feet from dry land. Again we +were transferred by one man power, as at Nome, +to the sands, which were here frozen quite hard, +and upon which I had the sensation, at first, of +walking with a gunboat attached to each foot.</p> + +<p>Some one conducted us to the Mission House, +only a few hundred yards from our landing place, +while the boat went back to the "Elk" for the +others. Miss E., who had come up on the "St. +Paul" with us, and now the housekeeper here, +came running out to welcome all cordially. By her +we were shown into the cozy little parlor, so tidy, +bright and warm that we immediately felt ourselves +again in civilization. Soon Mr. H., the head<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span> +missionary, whom I had already met in Nome, +came in with Miss J., the teacher of the Mission +children. She also had spent some days with us at +Nome. These all made us very welcome, and our +party of seven was soon sitting together before a +good, smoking hot breakfast, to which we did real +justice.</p> + +<p>When entering the house I had, upon first removing +my wraps and "fascinator," given my +friends another surprise equal to the one of the +muckluks on the steamer. The day before leaving +Nome I had (surreptitiously again) made a visit to +the hairdresser, and when I left her room I appeared +another woman. My head now, instead of +being covered with long, thin hair, done up hastily +in a twist at the back, had short hair and curled all +over, a great improvement, they all voted, when +the first surprise was over.</p> + +<p>My hair, all summer, had been like that of most +women when first in Alaska, falling out so rapidly +that I feared total baldness if something was not +done to prevent. This was the only sure remedy +for the trouble, as I knew from former experience, +and as I again proved, for it entirely stopped coming +out. Ricka soon followed my example, and we, +with Miss J., who had been relieved of her hair by +fever the year before, made almost a colony of +short-haired women, much to the amusement of +some of our party.</p> + +<p>After we had eaten our breakfasts, several of us<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span> +set to work at writing letters to send out to Nome +by the "Elk," which would remain a few hours unloading +freight, as this might be our last opportunity +for many weeks, or until the winter mails +were carried by dog-teams over the trails. We fancied +our friends on the outside would be glad to +hear that we had arrived safely at Golovin, and our +pens flew rapidly over the paper. These letters, +finally collected, were placed in the hands of one +of the "Elk's" crew for mailing at Nome, and the +steamer sailed away.</p> + +<p>Not all, however, wrote letters. The business +head of the "Star" firm had not been idle, nor writing +letters, and while I wrote Alma was deeply engaged, +well seconded by Ricka, in making arrangements +with Mr. H. by which we could remain in +this Mission House all winter. Before noon it was +decided that we should stay, assisting the missionaries +all in our power until such time as they could +move to their new station, as soon as the ice was +firm enough in the bay to travel upon and the +Home was far enough toward completion. It was +impossible to finish the building now, but so far as +practicable it would be made habitable, and all +necessary and movable articles of furniture would +be carried to the Home, though many large pieces +would be left for our use.</p> + +<p>This arrangement included our party of seven, +Mary at Nome, and the three boys at work at this +time on the new Home building, and would do<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span> +away with all necessity for building a cabin, lumber +being expensive and good logs scarce.</p> + +<p>This intelligence came just in time for insertion +in our home letters sent away on the "Elk," and it +was a day of rejoicing for at least seven persons +(Miss L. was to go to the Home, but Mary was to +come to us from Nome), who already considered +themselves a "lucky number."</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV.</h2> + +<h3>LIFE AT GOLOVIN.</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/do.png" width="56" height="150" alt="O" title="O" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">UR first duty after arriving at Golovin +was to look up our freight, which +seemed to be in a general mix-up. Each +person was searching on the beach +and in the warehouse for something. +For my part, I was greatly concerned +over the probable loss of a case of +coal oil, and a box containing wool +blankets, feather pillow, and other +things too precious to lose after paying +freight, especially as some of the articles could +not be replaced, and all were useful and necessary. +The "Elk's" crew had dumped the freight promiscuously +upon the frozen sands, considering +their duty at that point done, and no assurance was +given us that the freight was all there, or that it +was in good condition. The risk was all ours. We +could find it or lose it—that did not concern the +"Elk." As we had no idea as to the honesty of +the community in which we had come to reside, and +little confidence in some of the "Elk's" passengers +who were also receiving freight, we visited the +beach a number of times during the first two days. +While at Nome and packing up to leave I had +remembered the story of the person who, going to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span> +market, put all the eggs into one basket, and for +that reason, when an accident occurred, she lost +the whole lot; while, if she had placed them in two +baskets, one-half might have-been saved. For this +reason I then packed my blankets in two boxes, +and now as one was missing I was glad I had done +so, for to be entering upon a cold, long winter +without woolen blankets would be hard lines indeed.</p> + +<p>The first day was spent by the boys in hauling +baggage and freight into the old school house, +near the mission, which was to be our store room +for a time. This building was made of logs, sod +and mud plaster, with small doors and windows, +and thatched roof, now overgrown with grass and +weeds.</p> + +<p>It had long-been deserted, or given over to +storing purposes, as the new school and church +building was put up alongside, and was being used +at the present time. We would unpack as little as +possible, while the Mission family remained, as their +house was too small to accommodate comfortably +so many. Mr. H. was like the old woman who lived +in a shoe, for he really had such a family that he +was puzzled as to what disposition he should make +of them. However, the men were all lodged in the +new school building, as it was vacation time, and +no session; trunks and baggage, except bedding, +were put in the store house.</p> + +<p>The Eskimo children and the women occupied<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span> +the second floor of the mission. Mr. H. had his +room on the first floor, oftentimes shared with +some visiting missionary or friend, and I was the +best lodged of all. The big velvet couch in the sitting-room +by the fire was allotted to me, and I slept +luxuriously, as well as comfortably. The newest +and most modern article of furniture in the establishment, +this couch, was soft, wide, and in a warm, +cozy corner of the room.</p> + +<p>From being lodged above a bar-room in Nome, +I had come to a parlor in the Mission, and I was +well pleased with the changed atmosphere, as well +as the reduction of charges; for, whereas I had paid +five dollars per week for my small, unfurnished +room there, I now paid nothing, except such help +as I could give the women in the house.</p> + +<p>I felt, too, that I had earned, by my hard work +during the summer, all the rest and comfort I could +get, and I thoroughly enjoyed the change. Where +among the drones and laggards is one who can find +such sweets as well-earned rest and comfort after +labor? What satisfaction to feel the joy all one's +own. None assisted in the earning, and consequently +none expected a division of reward. It was +all my own. If this is selfishness, it is surely a refined +sort, and excusable.</p> + +<p>I was not, however, the only one in the Mission +who enjoyed a well-earned rest. Each one of our +party of seven had worked for months as hard +and harder than I, and all found a vacation as pleasing,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span> +while the Mission people had the same round +of work and as much as they could accomplish all +the year round.</p> + +<p>The day after our arrival at Golovin was Sunday. +The weather was clear and sunny, but cold. We +were now not only to have a vacation ourselves, but +could give our working clothes a rest as well, and +I took great pleasure in unearthing a good black +dress which was not abbreviated as to length, surprising +my friends by my height, after being in +short skirts so long. It was really Sunday now, +and we wore our Sunday clothes for the first time +in months, not having had an opportunity for Sabbath +observance in the work we had done at Nome.</p> + +<p>To complete our enjoyment of the good day, +there was the organ in the sitting-room, and upon +my first entering the room, and seeing the instrument +I had drawn a deep sigh of inward delight. +To find an organ, yes, two of them, for there was +also one standing in the schoolroom, or little +church, was to feel sure of many bright and happy +hours during the coming winter, and I felt more +than ever that for strangers in the Arctic world we +were, indeed, highly favored.</p> + +<p>It was not long before I discovered that with at +least two of our party of seven music was a passion, +for Ricka, as well as Mr. B., could never have +enough, and it was a pleasure to see the real and +unaffected delight upon their faces when I played. +We were really quite well supplied with musical instruments,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span> +for there were now in the Mission two +guitars, one mandolin, a violin and a few harmonicas, +besides the two organs, while as for vocalists +everybody sang from Mr. H. down to the Eskimo +boys, girls and the baby.</p> + +<p>But this day's climax was the three o'clock dinner, +prepared by Miss E. Could anything be more +restful to three tired restaurant workers than to sit +quietly in easy chairs, allow others to prepare the +meal and invite them to partake, without having +given a thought to the preparation of the same, +gaining, as we did, a knowledge of what was coming +only by the pleasant odors proceeding from the +kitchen? Certainly not, and the increased appetite +that comes with this rest is only a part of the enjoyment. +So when we were seated at the table on +Sunday, the second day of our arrival at Golovin, +before us fresh roast mutton, baked potatoes, +stewed tomatoes, coffee, bread and butter, with +pickles, and a most delicious soup made of dried +prunes, apricots, raisins and tapioca for dessert, we +were about the happiest people in Alaska and appreciated +it immensely. What bread Miss E. did +make, with slices as large as saucers, not too thin, +snowy, but fresh and sweet. What coffee from the +big pot, with Eagle brand cream from the pint can +having two small holes in the top, one to admit air +and the other to let the cream out. Nothing had +tasted so good to us since we had come home, as +hungry children, from school. As then, we were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span> +care-free, if only for a little while, and we were a +jolly, happy crowd.</p> + +<p>In the evening, when the children were once in +bed, we all gathered in the sitting-room for music, +stories and plans for the future, including the placing +of a few new strings on the musical instruments +and tuning of the same. Mr. H. had gone to the +Home the afternoon before, so there had been no +preaching service as ordinarily in the little schoolhouse +across the road. The boys were talking of +going to the Home across the bay next day in a +boat, but a wind came up which finally developed +into a stout southwester, and Monday was a most +disagreeable day. Alma worked on a fur cap, to +practise, she said, on some one before making her +own. Ricka mended mittens and other garments +for the boys, while I sewed on night clothes for +the little Eskimo baby.</p> + +<p>The child was probably between three and four +years old, but nobody knew exactly, for she was +picked up on the beach, half dead, a year before, +by the missionary, where she was dying of neglect. +Her mother was dead, and her grandfather was +giving her the least attention possible, so that she +was sickly, dirty and starved. She had well repaid +the kind people who took her into the Mission, +being now fat and healthy, as well as quite intelligent. +She was a real pet with all the women immediately, +being the youngest of this brood of +twenty youngsters and having many cunning little<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span> +ways. In appearance she looked like a Japanese, +as, in fact, all Eskimos do, having straight black +hair, and eyes shaped much like those of these people, +while all are short and thick of stature, with +few exceptions.</p> + +<p>Among this score of little natives there were +some who were very bright. All were called by +English names, and Peter, John, Mary, Ellen and +Susan, as well as Garfield, Lincoln and George +Washington, with many others, became familiar +household words, though the two last named were +grown men, and now gone out from the Mission +into houses of their own.</p> + +<p>As to the dressing of these children, it was also in +English fashion, except for boots, which were always +muckluks, and parkies of fur for outside garments, +including, perhaps, drill parkies for mild +weather, or to pull on over the furs, when it rained +or snowed, to keep out the water. As the weather +grew more severe, heavy cloth or fur mittens were +worn, and little calico and gingham waists and +dresses were discarded for flannel ones.</p> + +<p>The children, for weeks after our arrival, ran out +often to play, bareheaded and without wraps, having +frequently to be reminded when the weather +was severe, to put them on. In the kitchen they +had their own table, where they were separately +served, though at the same time as their elders at +another table in the room. To preserve the health +of the little ones, not taking entirely away their native<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span> +foods of seal meat and oil, tom-cod (small fish), +reindeer meat and wild game, these were fed to +them on certain days of the week, as well as other +native dishes dear to the Eskimo palate, but they +were well fed at all times, and grew fat and hearty +as well as happy.</p> + +<p>As we sewed contentedly in the sitting-room on +Monday the storm continued, snowing and blowing +a gale from the southwest, which, though not disturbing +us even slightly, we felt sure would be bad +for those at sea and at Nome; our own experiences +at that place giving us always a large sympathy for +others in similar plight. Long afterwards we +learned that in this storm the "Elk" had been +blown ashore at Nome, and was pretty thoroughly +disabled, if not entirely wrecked, and we wondered +if poor cook Jim had "done been mighty busy, sah, +gittin' tings fixed" ever since.</p> + +<p>When evening came the children and Baby Bessie +were put to bed; work, indoors and out, was +finished for that day, and we were twelve in the +sitting-room, as merry a crowd as one could find +in all Alaska. Miss J. had taken a lesson on the +organ in the afternoon and was all interested in +making progress on that instrument, assuring her +friends who declared she would never practise her +lessons, that she certainly would do so, as they +would afterwards learn.</p> + +<p>The winds might sigh and moan, and whirl the +falling snow in the darkness as they liked; waters<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span> +congeal under the fingers of the frost king, closing +the mouth of innumerable creeks, rivers, and bays; +but here under cover we had light, health, warmth +and food, without a single care. In my cozy, soft +bed under the blankets, the firelight playing on the +walls, the fine organ open and ready for use, I lay +often with wide open eyes, wondering if I were myself +or another.</p> + +<p>In one corner of the room stood a case containing +books enough to supply us with reading matter +for a year, those printed in Swedish being, of +course, of no use to me, but a variety of subjects +were here presented in English, ranging from +Drummond's "Natural Law in the Spiritual +World" to nursery rhymes for the children. Volumes +on medicine, law, science, travels, stories, +ethics and religion—all were here for the instruction +and edification of inmates of the Mission. In +another corner there was a large case of medicines, +and here were remedies in powders, liquids, salves +and pills, drawers filled with lint, bandages, cotton, +and books of instruction teaching the uses of all. +Even surgical instruments were found here, as well +as appliances for emergencies, from broken and +frozen limbs, mad-dog bites, and "capital operations," +to a scratched finger or the nose-bleed.</p> + +<p>This outfit was for the use of any and all, without +charge, who should be so unfortunate as to +require assistance of this sort in this region. Without +money and without price, the only case of remedies<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span> +for many miles around, this Mission provided +for all suffering ones who applied, and during the +winter many were relieved and assisted toward recovery.</p> + +<p>In the third corner of this room stood the large +cabinet organ, nearly new, and in good condition. +Instruction books, hymnals, "Gospel Hymns," +small collections of words without music, Swedish +songs—all were here in abundance.</p> + +<p>The fourth corner contained my couch-bed. A +heating stove, made of sheet iron, a table with its +pretty spread, a large student lamp, easy chairs, a +pretty ingrain rug covering the floor, window +shades and lace curtains, with pictures and Scripture +texts upon the wall, completed the room furnishings, +making a homey place, which for years +had been a haven of refuge for the homeless Eskimo +children. Besides these, it had given food, +shelter and clothing to many a white-faced wanderer, +who came penniless, hungry and cold, perhaps +ill and starving.</p> + +<p>About seven years before this unpretending, now +weather-beaten house had been erected, and the +kindly little dark-eyed man put in charge was at +once at home. He was blessed with rare versatility +and patience, as well as a great heart of love +for all mankind, including the dark-skinned, seal-eating +races of the Arctic.</p> + +<p>From a door-latch to a baby's cradle, from a log-house +to a sail-boat rigged with runners on the +ice, he planned, contrived and executed, principally<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span> +for others, for years. Here we found, in one room, +from his hands a bedstead, a table, and a washstand +commode, all made in white wood, of regulation +size, shape and pattern, though without +paint or staining. Relegated now to an upper +room, since the velvet couch had arrived, was a +long, wooden settle, with back, ends and sliding +seat, the latter to be pushed forward upon legs and +made into double bed at night.</p> + +<p>One day in the winter, when searching for open +places under the roof through which the snow was +sifting, wetting the ceiling of the room below, I +found in the attic a number of curious things, and +among them a child's cradle. Not all the thought +of the good man had been given to the needs of +the "grown-ups," but the small, weak and helpless +ones of his flock had received their equal share of +attention. The cradle was well made with solid +high sides and ends, and curved upper edges, +swinging low and easily upon its two strong rockers. +All was smooth, well finished, and rounded, +though there was no paint nor varnish, these articles +being doubtless unprocurable and not deemed +strictly essential. Near by were the remnants of a +white fox robe fitting the cradle. It was made of +baby fox skin, fine, soft and pretty. A flannel lining +with a pinked-out edge completed what had +once been a lovely cover for baby, whether with +white face or black, and I fell to wishing I might +have seen the complete outfit in its former days.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span></p> + +<p>From the rafters of the attic hung articles of +wearing apparel of curious make and pattern, +sometimes of skins of the wild reindeer or spotted +seal. Of old mittens and muckluks there were +numbers, still preserved for the good they had +done or might yet do at piecing out somewhere. +There were things for which I had not yet learned +the uses, but might do so before the cold winter +had passed. There were also many fur skins, and +new articles of value stored in the attic.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, October twenty-third, the weather was +not cold, but snow fell part of the day, and it grew +dark about half-past four in the afternoon. The +gale of Monday had subsided, and the sky was +overcast. The steamer "Sadie" of the Alaska Commercial +Company surprised us by coming into +Golovin, and again suddenly we fell to letter writing +in order to send them out by her, remaining several +hours as she always did to unload freight and +baggage, for this would positively be our last +steamer. Outside the boys worked as industriously +as we women. In the old log-house, a hundred feet +from our door, was the building now used for a +woodshed. Here, upon a big "double-decker" +saw-buck, two of the boys, with the big saw between +them, worked away, hour after hour, at the +great logs of driftwood brought from the beach, as +this was the only kind of fuel here used, and much +was needed for the winter fires.</p> + +<p>When I had finished my work of sewing, and it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span> +grew too dark to thread needles, between that hour +and the one for the lamp lighting, I was usually +seated at the organ, and our music was not all +Hymns from the Hymnals, certainly. There were +marches and polkas, and sprightly waltzes, too, and +nothing was ever tabooed, though these classic +selections were always omitted on Sunday. None +ever minded how long I sat at the organ, or how +many times a day a certain piece was played, and +a few could never be sated; but I took good care +that my work never lagged, and a duty was never +neglected for such pleasure, thereby making it always +the recreation and enjoyable exercise it was +intended to be and not tiresome.</p> + +<p>Miss J. now took a lesson on the instrument +each day for a half hour after the lamps were lighted, +and as she had already had a few lessons, and +could play a few hymns, she was much interested +in acquiring a further knowledge which would be +helpful in church and Sunday school services. Miss +E., too, thought of beginning lessons if she could +find time from her manifold duties as house-mother +of the numerous flock, and did take a few lessons +before they moved away.</p> + +<p>In the evening there was always singing, for +some were sure to be present then, who had been +absent during the day. Perhaps Mr. H. had arrived +with a Christian native from the Home, to +spend the night before going back on the morrow, +with supplies of some sort for the completion of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span> +his new house. He now headed the two establishments +and vibrated between them, simply camping +at the new place and enjoying everything of home +life possible in the Mission. At jokes and repartee +he was as good as the best of them, and always enjoyed +a laugh like the youngest.</p> + +<p>A level head and firm hand had this Swedish missionary +of long experience. From a dozen or more +years at Yakutat, in southern Alaska, where he had +done invaluable work for that Mission, he had +come about two years before to Golovin Bay, and +now had, besides the Eskimo children in that place, +over four hundred government reindeer in charge. +For these he kept a number of experienced and +trusty native drivers, and these either lived in his +Mission or with their families near at hand, as a +few of them now were married.</p> + +<p>This herd of animals was kept upon the hills +where the reindeer moss grew in plenty, for they +could not, and would not, eat anything else if they +literally starved to death, and they were now five +miles away. To remove this great family of a +score and more with their belongings over the ice, +a distance of twelve miles in winter by dog-team, +getting settled in a large frame building, unplastered, +and upon a bleak, unprotected shore, +was an undertaking which would have discouraged +most men; especially as a shipload of needed supplies +for their new Home, including furniture, had +been lost at sea, leaving them short of many such<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span> +necessities. But this was not all. The whole reindeer +herd and their drivers, with their several families, +were also to be moved near the new Home, +and to fresh moss pastures.</p> + +<p>Near the Home was a good-sized creek of fresh +and pure water, which ran singing along through +the hills to the ocean, and for this reason the site +had been selected and built upon.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV.</h2> + +<h3>WINTER IN THE MISSION.</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/dt.png" width="56" height="150" alt="T" title="T" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">HE first few garments I made for +Little Bessie were not a great success. +I had told Miss E. that I would be delighted +to assist her in any way that I +could, never dreaming what would +come; and she being more in need of +warm clothing for the children than +anything else, with rolls of uncut flannels, +and baskets piled high with materials +to be made into underwear, said +immediately that I might help with their sewing.</p> + +<p>She then brought a piece of Canton flannel, and +the shears, and put them into my hands, saying that +I might make two pairs of night-trowsers for the +baby. My heart sank within me in a moment. I +made a desperate effort to collect myself, however, +and quietly asked if she had a pattern. No, she +had none. The child, she said, kicked the cover +off her in the night so often, and the weather was +growing so cold, that she and Miss J. thought a +garment of the trouser description, taking in the +feet at the same time, would very well answer her +needs, and this I was requested to originate, pattern +and all. Whatever should I do? I could +more easily have climbed Mt. McKinley! If she<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span> +had told me to concoct a new pudding, write an +essay, or make a trip to Kotzebue, I should not +have been so much dismayed; but to make a garment +like that, out of "whole cloth," so to speak, +from my own design—that was really an utter impossibility.</p> + +<p>"O, well," she said, "I am sure you can do this +well enough. It is not such a very particular job; +just make something in which to keep the child +warm nights, you know. That is all I care for," +kindly added she, as she closed the door behind +her and went back to the kitchen.</p> + +<p>Finally I appealed to Alma. She was busy. +She had never cut out anything of the sort, neither +had Ricka nor Miss L., but I being a married woman +was supposed to have a superior knowledge +of all such things. I admitted that I might have a +theory on the subject, but a "working hypothesis," +alas, I had none.</p> + +<p>Still I hung around Alma, who was an expert +dressmaker of years' standing in San Francisco.</p> + +<p>"No, I can't cut them out, really; but why don't +you make a pattern from some garment on hand?"</p> + +<p>Here was an idea. Something to build upon.</p> + +<p>"But there are the feet, and the waist?" I said +still anxiously.</p> + +<p>"O, build them on to your pattern," she said +carelessly; as if anyone with half an eye and one +hand could do that sort of building, and she left +the room for more important matters.</p> + +<p>There was nothing else for me to do. I secured<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span> +a suit of the baby's clothing throughout, and, taking +the cloth, the shears, and an old newspaper, +I went upstairs to Miss J.'s room and closed the +door. I wanted to be alone. I longed to have +my dear old mother there for just one short hour, +for in that time I felt certain she would have cut +out these as well as other garments, enough to +keep us for weeks sewing, as her own babies had +kept her at one time.</p> + +<p>However, there was no help for me, and I went +to work. For an hour I cut and whittled on that +old newspaper, along with a number of others, before +I got a pattern that I fancied might do. +Then I submitted it to Miss J. herself, who told me +to go ahead and cut it out. It appeared all right, +so far as she could see. Then I cut, and basted, +and tried the garment on Bessie. It was too wide +across the chest, too short in the legs, and the +feet were monstrosities. What was to be done, +I asked of the others?</p> + +<p>"Make new feet, and sew them on around the +ankle," said Miss J., thoughtfully, surveying her +little charge from all sides, as the child stood first +on one foot, then on the other, "then you can +lengthen the legs a little if you want to," careful not +to offend by criticising abruptly, but still feeling +that the height of the gearing should be increased.</p> + +<p>"Dear me, that's easy enough," suggested Alma, +"just put a wide box plait down the front, like that +in a shirtwaist, and it will be all right."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span></p> + +<p>"The back can be taken out in the placket," and +Ricka folded and lapped the cloth on the little +child's shoulders, and then we called Miss E. from +the kitchen. After making a few suggestions in a +very conservative way, as if they did not come +readily because the garment was just about right; +she left the room hastily, saying her bread would +burn in the oven; and I thought I heard her giggling +with Miss L. in Swedish until she ran away +out into the woodshed, ostensibly for an armful of +wood; though if her bread were already burning I +wondered what she wanted of more fire.</p> + +<p>I did not blame her; I laughed too. The +little child looked exceedingly funny as she stood +there in that wonderful garment, with black eyes +shining like beads, and face perfectly unsmiling, as +she nearly always looks, wondering why it was we +were laughing.</p> + +<p>October twenty-fourth the boys worked all day at +making the house more comfortable for winter, +nailing tar paper upon the north side, where some +clapboards were missing, putting on storm or +double windows outside of the others, and filling +the cracks with putty. A couple of the boys also +worked at hauling supplies of apples and potatoes +from the warehouse by dog-team, putting the eatables +into the cellar under the kitchen, which was +well packed in with hay. This cellar was a rude +one, and in summer frequently filled with water +from the surface and the hill above the house,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span> +making it not altogether wholesome at times, but +by management, it was still being used for some +things, and of course, in cold weather, it made no +difference, for everything was solidly frozen.</p> + +<p>Snow enough had fallen by this time, a little +coming quietly down every few hours, to make fair +roads for the sleds, the ground being quite hard; +while Fish River and adjoining creeks were fast +freezing over, as were also the waters of the bay.</p> + +<p>In the evening Mr. H. came in, and we all +gathered in the sitting room, some sewing, some +mending, but all chatting pleasantly. The missionary +had just been informed, he told us, of a +gold strike on the Kuskokquim River, some one +having only recently returned from St. Michael, +and brought the report. From that place men +were leaving for the new diggings each day, and it +might or might not prove a bona fide strike. With +reindeer, on a good winter trail, this distance +would not be a formidable trip, Mr. H. told us.</p> + +<p>This was the information we wanted to hear, and +it probably started a train of golden dreams that +night in more than one head, which was long in +stopping, especially when he informed us that +every acre of land around us was then staked out +in quartz claims, though no extensive prospecting +had yet been done, and we were pleased at finding +ourselves "so near" even though we were "yet +so far."</p> + +<p>Today was a birthday for Mr. G., and he was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span> +teased unmercifully for his age, but would not give +it, so those who had known him the longest tried +their best to figure it out from incidents in his life +and from narratives of his own, and made it out to +their satisfaction as about thirty-two years, though +he refused (like a woman) to the very last, to tell +them if they were guessing correctly.</p> + +<p>The next day it still snowed a little at intervals +between clouds and sunshine, and all "tenderfeet" +were more comfortable indoors. Miss E. and +Ricka had gone the day before with the boys and +Mr. H. to the Home on a scow-load of lumber, +though we feared it was pretty cold for them without +shelter on the water; but with the wind in the +right direction, they wanted to attempt it, and so +started. They were to look the new building over +for the first time, Miss E. being much interested in +the inside arrangement of rooms, naturally, as it +was to be her home and field of labor, and rightly +thinking a womanly suggestion, perhaps, might +make the kitchens more handy.</p> + +<p>In their absence the rest of us continued our +sewing, Miss L. taking Miss E.'s place in the +kitchen, with help from the larger Eskimo girls at +dish washing. The latter were docile and smiling, +and one little girl called Ellen was always exceedingly +careful to put each cup and saucer, spoon +and dish in its proper place after drying it, showing +a commendable systematic instinct, which Miss E. +was trying to foster.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span></p> + +<p>Between times, their school not yet being in session, +they played about, either up in their rooms if +it was too stormy outside, or out of doors if the +weather permitted; though, for that matter, they +seldom hesitated to do anything they wished on +account of the weather, as it was not so cold to +the natives as to us. They played with balls, both +large and small, and sleds of all descriptions; and +if the latter were not to be had, or all in use, a +barrel stave or board would be made to answer the +same purpose. It was a rush past the window +down the hill, first by a pair of muckluked feet, +then a barrel stave and a boy, sometimes little +Pete, and sometimes John. One barrel stave +would hold only one coaster, and there were usually +enough for the boys, but if by chance the little +girls laid hands upon the sleds before they did, +the staves were then their only resource. If a child +rolled, by accident, upon the ground, it never +seemed to matter, for in furs he was well protected. +The snow was soft, and he, being as much at home +there as anywhere, seemed rather to like it.</p> + +<p>If he was seen to fall, it was the signal for some +other to roll and tumble him, keeping him under as +long as possible, and it was a frequent sight to see +three or four small boys tumbling about like kittens, +locked in each other's arms, and all kicking +and shouting good-naturedly. Snowballing, too, +was their delight, and their balls were not always<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span> +velvety, either, as the one stopping its course could +affirm.</p> + +<p>These children did little quarreling. I cannot +remember seeing Eskimo boys angry or fighting, +a thing quite noticeable among them, for nowhere +in the world, perhaps, could the same number of +white children be found living so quietly and harmoniously +together as did these twelve little dark-faced +Eskimos in the Mission.</p> + +<p>Our days were now growing much shorter, and +it was necessary to light the lamps at four o'clock +in the afternoon, the sun having set some time before. +The sunset skies were lovely in bright and +tender colors, reflecting themselves as they did in +the water of the bay, and tinting delicately all surrounding +hilltops. What a beautiful sight it was, +and how sadly we remembered that very soon the +water would have disappeared under the solid ice, +there to remain for long months imprisoned. Little +did we then know that the heavenly beauty of the +Arctic sky is never lacking, but close upon the departure +of one season, another, no less beautiful, +takes its place.</p> + +<p>Diary of October twenty-sixth: Alma and I +called today upon two neighbors in the old schoolhouse +next the church, by name Dr. H. and wife. +They claim to have come from Dawson not very +long ago, being shipwrecked on the way, and losing +their outfit. She seems a chatty, pleasant little +body, and inclined to make the best of everything,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span> +her hard lot included, and she is baking and selling +bread to the miners. She is a brave little woman, +and could teach many a pampered and helpless +one lessons of great usefulness and patience. Miss +L. is ill with quincy and suffering very much, so +Alma makes the bread.</p> + +<p>I have just made four large aprons for Miss J., +cutting them out and making them, and they look +really well, so I am quite proud of myself, especially +as Ricka has "set up" my knitting on +needles for me, and I am going to make some +hose. I usually knit evenings, between times at +the organ, for my new yarn received from San +Francisco is very nice, and will make warm winter +stockings.</p> + +<p>Saturday, October twenty-seventh: We have +four inches of snow on the ground, and more coming. +Miss L. is quite ill with her throat, and did +not get up today. Alma, too, is very pouty, with +a swollen, pudgy face, and feels badly. They both +say they think they took cold coming from Nome +on the "Elk," and I don't doubt it, for I would +have done so myself only for my great caution in +taking care of my newly shingled head and in applying +a thorough dose of fur muckluks to my feet, +but, thanks to them, I am the most "chipper" one +at present.</p> + +<p>Miss J. had Dr. H. examine Bessie today, and he +says she has bronchitis, but told the teacher what +to do for her.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span></p> + +<p>The two girls came back from the Home with +Mr. H. and Mr. L. about four o'clock after we had +begun to be worried about them. They were hungry, +and Alma and I got dinner for them, when +Mr. H. started back immediately in a small boat +alone, after it had begun to grow dark. We begged +him not to attempt it, but he insisted on going, as +he must be there tomorrow to push the work on +the building, and the ice is floating, so he fears it +will freeze the bay over. The sun shone out beautifully +for three or four hours, and it is just one +week today since we landed in Golovin, a most +pleasant week to us all (pattern making not included).</p> + +<p>Later.—I helped with the housework and made +two more aprons for Miss J. There is nothing like +feeling of some use in the world, is there?</p> + +<p>Sunday, October twenty-eight: A clear, bright +morning, growing cloudy about noon, and dark at +four in the afternoon, when lamps were lighted. +We had a long, restful day indoors, both Miss E. +and Ricka being very lame from their long walk +of fifteen miles over the stony beach and tundra +covered hills from the Home, Mr. H.'s boat being +too small for four persons. By water the distance +is called a dozen miles, but by land and on foot it +is much farther, as the girls have found by sad +experience; and they were very glad it was Sunday, +and they could rest. Miss E. said laughingly that +we would play we were at home in the States again,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span> +and so she spread the breakfast table daintily in the +sitting-room, with white cover, pretty embroidered +centre-piece, and snowy napkins, bringing real +comfort to our hearts, accustomed as we had been +for so many months to bare necessities and none +of the luxuries. A fashionable breakfast hour for +Sunday in the States was also affected in order to +make the plan complete, and because the mornings, +growing darker as they are continually doing, nobody +felt in haste to leave their beds. Of course +every one wore his Sunday clothes and I put on +my very best waist of olive green satin with a good +black skirt, which had a little train, thereby effectively +hiding my uncouth feet, still clad as they are +in the ungainly muckluks.</p> + +<p>The ice is moving in the bay, and we hear that +still another steamer may come in, so we can send +mail out to Nome, and write to have in readiness. +There have been no church services today, as Mr. +H. is away at the Home, but we had music and +singing frequently, and Swedish hymns all evening, +which I play, but do not understand.</p> + +<p>Monday, October twenty-ninth: This has been +a bright, sunny morning until a little after noon, +when it grew cloudy, as it often does. Miss E. was +still very lame from her long tramp of last Saturday, +and Ricka and I assisted in the kitchen. Alma +has cut out a pretty brown cloth dress for Miss J. +and is making it. Miss L.'s throat is better, and +she is out of her room again, after a siege of severe<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span> +suffering with quinsy, which caused a gathering. +About nine in the evening Mr. H. came in from +the Home, having walked the whole distance, a +boat being now unsafe in the floating ice. After +drinking some hot coffee, he related to us his adventure +of Friday night in the Peterborough canoe. +He had left us quite late in the afternoon of that +day to go to the Home, and it was already beginning +to grow dark. For a while, he said, he found +open water, and made good time at the paddle, +but presently found himself alongside of and soon +after crowded by floating ice.</p> + +<p>It was young ice, and he did not have much fear +of it. He kept on paddling, but finally found himself +entirely surrounded, and manage as he would, +he could not free his canoe. A breeze came up +from the north, which pushed him along with the +ice out toward sea, for he was near the mouth of +the bay. There was nothing to do but wait. For +an hour he waited.</p> + +<p>It was well on towards midnight, and he could +see no escape. The missionary, in relating the incident +to us, did not dwell upon this part of his +story, but he said he had given himself up for lost, +and only prayed and waited. By and by the breeze +died away, the ice quietly parted, and drifted away +from him, and he paddled safely ashore.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, October thirty: A brand new experience +today—that of watching the natives and others +fish through the ice. Little holes are made in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span> +ice, which is now quite strong in the north end of +the bay near the cliff, and the Eskimos sit there +patiently for hours, fishing for tom-cod. These are +small fish, but quite tasty, one of the principal +means of subsistence for the natives, and are also +much used by others. No pole is needed on the +line except a short one of three or four feet, and +when a bite is felt by the fisherman, the line is +quickly drawn out, given a sudden twitch, which +frees the tom-cod, and he is summarily dispatched +with a few raps from the fishing stick kept at hand +for the purpose.</p> + +<p>Several river boats, including small steamers, are +laid up under the cliff for the winter, dismantled +of loose gear and light machinery, and I did get a +few views which should prove of some value. The +weather was good all day, the sun setting at three +in the afternoon, and it being nearly dark an hour +later. Mr. H. dressed himself from top to toe in +furs, hitched three dogs to a sled, took a lunch for +himself, a few supplies of eatables for the Home +camp to which he was going, and started out, on a +longer, but we trusted a less venturesome and dangerous +route than by Peterborough canoe. Our +evening was pleasantly, and at the same time more +or less profitably spent by our party in the sitting-room, +Alma sewing on Miss J.'s new dress, Ricka +and I knitting, and the others either mending or +busying themselves at something. This something +frequently covers a good deal of ground, for with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span> +one or two of the boys it means pranks or +roguishness of some sort, which really enlivens the +whole household and keeps our risibles from growing +rusty by disuse.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, October thirty-one: I find no difficulty +in running the sewing machine here, which +is a new and good one, and I like to use it very +well. Just how they could get along without it is +more than I can tell, with so much sewing to do for +each of the children, not to mention the others who +are waiting to come into the Mission at the earliest +possible moment. During the day Mr. L. busied +himself usefully in several ways as he always does, +and finally mended Miss J.'s guitar. After supper +we counted ourselves and found six women and a +lot of children, but he was the only man in the +establishment, the others being at the Home, and +we hazed him considerably, all of which was taken +most good-naturedly. The bay is freezing more +and more each day, with an increasing depth of +snow upon the ground.</p> + +<p>A very unpleasant day as to weather was Friday, +November second. Snow, high tide, and wind from +the south, which blew the water further yet upon +the beach; but we sewed all day, though I did not +get much accomplished. I gave Miss E. her first +lesson on the organ today. Alma is making herself +a new dress skirt, as she has Miss J.'s wool +dress nearly finished, and it looks exceedingly well, +fitting, as some one remarks, "like the paper on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span> +the wall." Alma likes dressmaking, and does it +well, but draws the line at baby clothes.</p> + +<p>Each day Miss J., the teacher, is now holding a +little prayer meeting in the kitchen for the natives. +When the supper is cleared away, one of the boys +goes out and rings the bell, which is only a big, +iron triangle hung under three posts in the ground. +A piece of iron is picked up and put through the +triangle, hitting it on both sides, and making a +ringing, vibrating sound which calls in the natives, +who come immediately, just as they are, and range +themselves on the benches along the walls. Those +who can sing sit at the long table upon which are +the lamps and English song books, those used being +principally Gospel songs. One of the grown +boys called Ivan is a very fair singer, and loves +music of all kinds. He is the interpreter for all +meetings, understanding English and speaking it +quite well. None of the Eskimos are taught Swedish—nothing +but English.</p> + +<p>Miss J. reads a song which she wishes them to +learn, and Ivan interprets it into Eskimo, verse by +verse, afterwards singing it. Tunes are learned +more quickly than words, but they get the meaning +from Ivan. Then Miss J. reads the Scripture, Ivan +interpreting verse by verse. She next offers prayer +in English, and calls upon some older native Christian +to pray in his language, after which they sing +several songs with which they are familiar. Having +selected beforehand some passage from the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span> +Bible, she reads and expounds that, being interpreted +by Ivan; there is a short benediction and +the meeting is over. They seem to like very well +to come, and are never eager to go, but say little, +not being great talkers, even in their own tongue.</p> + +<p>When the last Eskimo has departed, and the +children are settled in bed, the cozy hour of the +day has arrived. For a good, old-fashioned tale of +love, fright and adventure, there is no time like a +winter's night, when the wind shrieks down the +chimney and whirling snow cuddles into corners +and crannies. When supper is over, and the +kitchen is well cleared, the women of the house +may take their yarn and bright needles, while the +men toast their feet at the fire and spin—other +yarns, without needles, which are, perhaps, not so +essential, but far more entertaining to listeners.</p> + +<p>This is what we did that winter at Chinik, the +home of the Eskimo, in that far away spot near the +Arctic Sea. There were tales of the Norsemen +and Vikings, told by their hardy descendants sitting +beside us, as well as the stories of Ituk and +Moses, the aged, called "Uncle," Punni Churah, +big Koki, and "Lowri."</p> + +<p>To the verity of the following narrative all these +and many others can willingly vouch.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI.</h2> + +<h3>THE RETIRED SEA CAPTAIN.</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/dm.png" width="56" height="150" alt="M" title="M" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">ANY years ago, close under the +shadow of old Plymouth Rock, there +was born one day a fair-skinned, blue-eyed +baby. Whether from heredity, or +environment, or both, the reason of +his spirit will perhaps never plainly +appear, but as the child grew into +manhood he seemed filled with the +same adventurous aspirations which +had actuated his forefathers, causing +them to leave their homes in old England, and +come to foreign shores. Scarcely had he passed +into his teens before he was devouring tales of pirates, +and kindred old sea yarns, and his heart was +fired with ambition to own a vessel and sail the +high seas. Not that he thirsted for a pirate's life, +but a seafaring man's adventures he longed for +and decided he must have.</p> + +<p>Under these conditions a close application at his +desk in the village school was an unheard-of consequence; +and, having repeatedly smarted under the +schoolmaster's ferule, not to mention his good +mother's switches plucked from the big lilac bush +by her door, he decided to run away to the great +harbor, and ship upon some vessel bound for a +foreign land.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span></p> + +<p>This he did. Then followed the usual hard, +rough life of a boy among sailors in distant ports; +the knotted rope's end, the lip blackening language +and curses, storms, shipwrecks and misfortunes; +all followed as a part of the life so hastily chosen +by the adventurous young lad, until he acquired +familiarity with all that appertained thereto, and he +was a man.</p> + +<p>Years passed. To say that fortune never came +to him would not be true, because she is always a +fickle dame, and cannot change her character for +sailor men. So it came about that he finally stood +on the captain's bridge of different sorts of craft, +and gave orders to those beneath him.</p> + +<p>And a typical sea captain was he. Gruff when +occasion required, rollicking as any when it +pleased him, he was generous to a fault, and a man +of naturally good impulses. If he drank, he was +never tipsy; if he swore, he always had reason; +and thus he excused himself when he thought of +his good old mother's early Bible teaching.</p> + +<p>From Montevideo to Canton, from Gibraltar to +San Francisco, from Cape of Good Hope to the +Arctic Ocean; thus ran his itinerary year after year. +Crossing Behring Strait from Siberia in the summer +of 18—, he landed, with his little crew, at Cape +Prince of Wales, for the purpose of trading with +the natives. The furs of the animals of this region +were found to be exceptionally fine, thick and +glossy, and the Eskimos easily parted with them. +For flour, tobacco and woolen cloth they willingly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span> +gave their furs to the sailors, who looked admiringly +upon the skins of the polar bear, sea otter, +beaver, silver, black and white fox, as well as those +of many other animals. These furs were sold in +San Francisco, and other trips were made to the +Arctic Northwest.</p> + +<p>Along the south coast of the Seward Peninsula +there are few bays or natural harbors. Golovin +Bay is one of them. Here for many years the Eskimos +have subsisted upon the fine fish and game. +The flesh and oils of the white whale, seal and +walrus being principally sought for, the natives +came to this bay from all directions.</p> + +<p>After many years of wandering, and when the +ambitions of the captain for a seafaring life had +been satisfied, an incident occurred which changed +the current of his life and decided him to settle permanently +at Golovin Bay.</p> + +<p>During his visits on the peninsula his attention +had been directed to a bright and intelligent young +Eskimo woman, lithe and lively, a good swimmer, +trapper and hunter. Like a typical Indian, she +had a clear, keen eye, steady nerves and common +sense. She was a good gunner and seldom missed +her mark. She was fearless on land or sea, loved +her free out-door life, and was a true child of +nature. Her name was Mollie.</p> + +<p>One day in the early springtime, nearly a dozen +years ago, when the winter's ice was still imprisoned +in the bays and sounds of Behring Sea,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span> +though the warm sun had for weeks been shining +and already seams appeared upon the ice in many +places, the captain attempted the trip by dog-team +from St. Michael to Golovin Bay. With him were +four trusty natives, and three dog-teams, the animals +being of the hardy Eskimo breed, and well-nigh +impervious to cold, their long, thick hair +making an effective protection.</p> + +<p>His men were experienced, knowing the country +perfectly, including a knowledge of winter trails +and methods of traveling such as all Eskimos possess, +and though the weather was not just what the +captain might have wished, he decided to make the +start, and left St. Michael in good shape for the +long trip. The strong sleds with high-back handle +bar and railed sides were firmly packed with +freight, which was securely lashed down. The dogs +were driven in pairs, eleven to a sled, the eleventh +being in each case a fine leader and called such, besides +having his own Eskimo name, as did also the +four men who were warmly dressed in furs from +head to foot. These natives were familiar with +little English, but as the captain had made himself +acquainted with their language they had no difficulty +in making each other understood.</p> + +<p>Early in the evening of that day they reached +the Mission station of Unalaklik, on the mainland, +about fifty miles northeast of the island, where they +spent the night. In this settlement were white +traders, as well as missionaries and numbers of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span> +Eskimos, it being an old port of considerable importance.</p> + +<p>In the cold grey morning light Punni Churah +and the men called to the malemutes, patting their +furry heads and talking kindly to them, for many +a weary, long mile of snow trail stretched northward +for them that day before they could rest and +eat. Only at night, when their day's work was +done, were these faithful creatures ever fed on seal, +fish, whale, or walrus meat, for otherwise they +would be drowsy, and not willing to travel; so +they were called early from their snow beds in a +drift or hollow, where they liked best to sleep, and +made ready for the start.</p> + +<p>Dressed in their squirrel skin parkies, with wide-bordered +hoods upon their heads, reindeer muckluks +on their feet and mittens of skin upon their +hands, stood Ah Chugor Ruk, Ung Kah Ah Ruk, +Iamkiluk and Punni Churah, long lashed whips in +hand, and waiting.</p> + +<p>On one of the sleds, dressed and enveloped in +furs, sat the captain, before giving the order to +start. At the word from him, the dogs sprang to +their collars, the little bells jingled, and away they +all dashed. Team after team, over the well-trodden +trail they went, keeping up a continuous and +sprightly trot for hours, while behind at the handle +bars ran the natives, and rocks, hills and mountains +were passed all unnoticed.</p> + +<p>That night another Eskimo village was reached,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span> +and sixty miles of snow trail were left behind. +Shaktolik lay on the shore southeast of a portage +which would have to be made over a small point +of land jutting out into Norton Bay.</p> + +<p>During the night a storm came up which would +necessarily much impede their progress, being +called in the western world a "blizzard." This +storm fiend, once met, is never forgotten. None +but the man in the Arctic has seen him. None +know so well how to elude him. Like a Peele, or a +"tremblor" this Arctic king gathers his forces, +more mighty than armies in battle, and sweeps all +opponents before him. To resist means death. To +crouch, cower or bow down to this implacable lord +of the polar world is the only way to evade his +wrath when he rides abroad, and woe to the man +who thinks otherwise.</p> + +<p>Not long had the wind and snow been blowing +when the little train prepared to move. Ahead +they could see the sled tracks of other "mushers" +(travelers by dog-team), and the captain concluded +to hurry along, notwithstanding that Ah Chugor +Ruk shook his head, and spat tobacco juice upon +the ground, and Ung Kah Ah Ruk demurred stoutly +in few words. Punni Churah thought as the rest, +but would go ahead if the captain so ordered, and +they headed northwest for the portage.</p> + +<p>On the dogs trotted for hours. The snow and +sleet were blinding, the wind had risen to a gale. +The dogs traveled less rapidly now, and their faces<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span> +were covered with frost, the moisture freezing as +they breathed.</p> + +<p>By this time the natives wanted to camp where +they were, or head about northeast for another +Eskimo village called Ungaliktulik, which would +make the journey longer by twenty-five miles, but +the captain decided to keep on as they were going.</p> + +<p>By the middle of the afternoon the gale had increased +to fury, causing the thermometer to fall +with great rapidity, while the snow was blinding. +The dogs were curling up in the wind like leaves +before a blaze.</p> + +<p>Ah Chugor Ruk was ahead with his team. His +leader suddenly halted.</p> + +<p>"Muk-a-muk!" cried the Eskimo.</p> + +<p>"Muk!" echoed Punni Churah, running up +alongside to look, and then back to the captain's +sled, where he shouted something loudly in order +to be heard above the storm.</p> + +<p>An ice crack crossed their trail. There was no +help for it. There it lay, dark and cold—the +dreaded water.</p> + +<p>In the blinding blizzard they could not see the +width of the chasm. It was too wide for them to +bridge; it was death to remain where they were—they +must turn back, and they did so. The wind +was not now in their faces as before, which made +traveling some easier, but they had not gone far +when: "Muk-a-muk!" from Punni this time, who +was ahead.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span></p> + +<p>Again the dogs stopped. Again Punni Churah +came back, and reported.</p> + +<p>They were adrift on a cake of ice. Wind from +the northeast was blowing a hurricane, carrying +them on their ice cake directly out to sea; but the +snow was drifting in hummocks, and in one of +them the natives began digging a hole for a hut. +When this was of sufficient size, they pitched a sled +cover of canvas over it, made the sleighs fast outside, +and crawled underneath. Once inside their +temporary igloo, they made a fire of white drilling +and bacon, taken from the sled loads of merchandise; +melted snow for water, and boiled coffee, being +nearly famished. Then for hours they all slept +heavily, the dogs being huddled together in the +snow, as is their habit, but the blizzard raged +frightfully, and drove the dogs nearer the men in +the hut.</p> + +<p>Crawling upon the canvas for more warmth, the +poor, freezing creatures, struggling for shelter, +with the weight of their bodies caused the hut to +collapse, and all fell, in one writhing heap, upon +the heads of the unfortunates below. Howling, +barking, struggling to free themselves from the +tangle, the pack of brutes added torment to the lot +of the men; but the storm raged with such terrific +force that all lay as they fell, until morning, under +the snow.</p> + +<p>None now disputed the storm king's sway. All +were laid low before him. With the united fury of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span> +fiends of Hades, he laughed in demoniacal glee at +the desperation of the Arctic travelers under his +heel. The whole world was now his. Far from the +icy and unknown wastes of the interior, around +the great Circle and Rockies, riding above the +heads of rivers and mountains, he came from the +Koyuk and Koyukuk. Like a child at play, as if +weary of so long holding them in his cold embrace, +he drove the massive ice floes out into +ocean, only, perhaps, in childish fitfulness, to bring +them back directly, by gales quite contrary.</p> + +<p>When morning dawned, the captain and his men +crawled out of the crushed snow hut, and, with +hard work, made a new cave in the snow drift, +burying the sleighs in the old one. The dogs were +starving, and, to appease their appetites, were +purloining bacon from the sled's stores; but Providence, +for once, was kind to them, and a large, fat +seal of several hundred pounds weight was shot +that day on the edge of the ice cake upon which +they were camped, and this gave them food and +fuel. Dogs and natives were then well fed on the +fresh seal meat and blubber, their natural and +favorite viands. From tin dishes upon the sleds, +the natives made little stoves, or lamps, using drilling +for wicks, seal oil for fuel, and their coffee was +made. Among the stores on the sleds were canned +goods, beans, sausages, flour and other things, +and on these the captain subsisted.</p> + +<p>Day after day passed. The storm gradually died<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> +away, and the sun came out. Then watches were +set to keep a lookout, and the captain took his +turn with his men. Walking about in the cold +morning air, he could see the mainland to the +northwest, many miles away, and his heart sank +within him. Would he ever put his foot upon that +shore again? How long could they live on the ice +cake if they floated far out in the Behring Sea? To +him the outlook was growing darker each day, +though the natives seemed not to be troubled.</p> + +<p>Nearly two weeks passed. One night the captain +was awakened by a hand on his shoulder. It +was Ung Kah Ah Ruk. The wind, he said, was +blowing steadily from the southwest, and if it continued +they might be able to reach the shore ice +and the mainland. Anxiously together then they +watched and waited for long, weary hours, getting +the sleds loaded, and in readiness for a start; then, +with bitterest disappointment, they found the wind +again changed to the southwest, which would carry +them out to sea as before.</p> + +<p>What were they to do? This might be their best +and only chance to escape. The shore ice lay near +them, but, as yet, beyond their reach. This treacherous +wind might continue for days and even +weeks. From experience they knew that the wind +blew where he listed, regardless of the forlorn creatures +under him, and with the thermometer at forty +degrees below zero, as it was, swimming was out +of the question. The crack appeared a dozen or so<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span> +feet in width, and escape was only possible by +reaching the other side.</p> + +<p>Their strait was a desperate one. The captain +decided to make the leap. Removing his furs, he +rolled them tightly, and threw them across the +chasm. It was now a positive dash for life, as +without his furs he would soon perish with the +cold.</p> + +<p>He made the run and leaped. At that instant +one of the natives, from intense interest, or from +a desire to assist, gave a loud Eskimo whoop, +which startled the captain, and he missed his footing, +falling forward upon the ice, but with his +lower limbs in the water.</p> + +<p>The natives now bestirred themselves and threw +to the captain a large hunting knife and rifle, attached +to their long sled lashings. With a good +deal of exertion, the captain crawled upon the ice, +and with the knife he chopped a hole, and inserted +the rifle barrel, fastening the lashings to it and +holding it firmly in place. The natives then pulled +with united strength on the line, bringing the ice +cake slowly up toward the captain until within a +few feet of the shore ice, when, using a sled for a +bridge, they and the dogs crossed safely over, without +so much as wetting their feet. To all, this was +a matter for great rejoicing, and no regretful farewells +were given to the ice floe which had been +their prison house so long. They were not yet out +of danger, however, for the shore ice upon which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span> +they stood might, in the gale, at any moment be +loosened and carry them, like the other, out into +the ocean. So with all haste possible, they proceeded +to get away. Punni Churah brought the +captain's fur sleeping bag and robes, in which he +was stowed away in one of the sleds, though his +wet clothing was now frozen. There was no time +nor place to make a change, with the thermometer +nearly forty degrees below zero.</p> + +<p>Hours afterward they reached the mainland. +How good once more to step foot on terra firma! +The dogs barked, and the natives hallooed cheerfully +to each other, for they were now going home. +A deserted native village was soon entered, an +igloo in passable condition taken possession of, +and the dogs tied up for the night.</p> + +<p>The natives now worked rapidly and cheerfully, +two putting up their camp stove, another bringing +snow for water with which to make the coffee, and +Punni Churah looking after the captain, who tried +to remove his clothing, but to no purpose. Muckluks +and trousers were frozen together, and as fast +as the ice melted sufficiently they were cut away. +Contrary to his expectations, he was not severely +frozen, a white patch, the size of his hand, appearing +upon each limb above the knee. With these +they did the best they could, and dry clothing from +the sleds was put on.</p> + +<p>Their supper that night was a feast of rejoicing. +They were now on the home trail, and would soon<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span> +be among friends. One more day of travel and +their long, hazardous, and eventful trip of two hundred +miles over an Arctic waste would be successfully +accomplished. As they rolled themselves in +their furs at midnight for a few hours of needed +rest and sleep, they could almost fancy themselves +at home again and happy. The dogs huddled in +the snow outside, now and then barking in their +usual way, but the tired men in the igloo did not +hear them, for their sleep was oblivion, after the +strain of the last two weeks.</p> + +<p>Next morning, after traveling for several hours, +a halt was made, and a lunch was taken in an Eskimo +camp; but the captain, by this time, was suffering +from exposure and frosted limbs, the trail +was bad, and he concluded to hurry on ahead of +the teams. The way was familiar, and only one +low mountain, called the Portage, was to be +crossed. It was early in the day, and his teams +would follow immediately; so on his snowshoes the +captain hastened toward home.</p> + +<p>God help the man who travels alone in the Arctic +in winter! Little matters it if the sun shines brightly +at starting, and the sky appears clear as a summer +pool. In one short hour the aspect of all may +be changed, heavens overcast, snow flying, and +wind rapidly driving. Under the gathering darkness +and whirling snowflakes the narrow trail is +soon obscured, or entirely obliterated, the icy wind +congeals the traveler's breath and courage simultaneously,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span> +he becomes confused and goes round and +round in a circle, until, benumbed by the frost, he +sinks down to die. This was what now happened +to the captain.</p> + +<p>Another storm was upon him when he reached +the hill portage, and as he expected his natives momentarily, +and beyond this point the trail was +good, so that he could ride behind the dogs, he +waited until they should come up to him. Hour +after hour he waited. Night came on, and the blizzard +increased in severity. Hungry, cold and already +frost-bitten, he must spend the night on the +mountain alone. Still he listened for the bells on +the malemutes, and the calls of his Eskimo drivers.</p> + +<p>They did not come. Nothing but snow, and the +shriek of that storm king whose rage he had so +recently encountered while drifting to sea on the +ice floe, and from whom only cruelty was ever +expected, now whistled in his ears.</p> + +<p>He knew he must keep on walking, so removing +his snowshoes he stuck one in the snow drift and +fastened a seal rope at the top. Taking the end of +this in his hand, he circled round and round for +hours to keep himself moving. At last he grew +weary, and closed his eyes, still walking as before. +It was more pleasant to keep his eyes closed, for +then he saw visions of bright, warm rooms, blazing +fires and cozy couches, and smelled the odors +of appetizing foods. There were flowers, sweet +music and children, and he was again in far-off +sunny lands.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span></p> + +<p>He grew drowsy. He would only rest a little in +a soft white drift, and then go on again. Making +a place in the bank with the snowshoe, while the +wind whistled horribly and the whirling snow bewildered +him, he lay down to——</p> + +<p>Some men, one night, drove their dog-teams into +Chinik. They had come from St. Michael, two +hundred miles over the trail. They said the captain +and his party left there many days before them, +and by this they were surely dead, unless drifted +out to sea, which really meant the same thing, as +no man could live upon the ice during the recent +great blizzard. An Eskimo woman heard what +they said. She was a cousin to Punni Churah, but +she said nothing.</p> + +<p>An hour later, the woman and two men with +dogs and sleds left Chinik for the Portage, going +east. It was storming, but it was not dark, and +they knew each foot of the way. At first, on the +level, the woman rode in one of the sleds, but when +it grew hilly, she trudged behind. Her sharp eyes +now keenly searched every dark or obscure spot +along the hillside trail. The wind lessened somewhat, +and the moon came out behind the clouds.</p> + +<p>The dogs finally stopped, throwing back their +heads and howling; then, in more excitement, gave +the short, quick bark of the chase.</p> + +<p>The natives began poking about with sticks in +the drifts, and Mollie (for it was she) soon found +the unconscious man in the snow.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span></p> + +<p>Quick work then they made of the return trip. +They were only a few miles from home now, and +the malemutes seemed to comprehend. Every nerve +in their bodies tingled. Every tiny bell on their +harnesses jingled, and the fleet-footed natives sped +rapidly behind. The dogs needed no guidance, for +they were going home, and well knew it. The +voice of big Ituk, as he gave out his Eskimo calls, +the sleigh-bells, and the creak of the sled runners +over the frosty snow, were the only sounds heard +on the clear morning air.</p> + +<p>The life of the captain was saved.</p> + +<p>The sequel of his story is not long. With the +best care known to a native woman, brought up +near and inside a Mission station, the captain was +tended and brought back to life, though weeks +passed before he was well. In fact, he was never +strong again, and, needing a life-long nurse, decided, +with Mollie's consent, to take her for his +wife, and so the missionary married them. Then +they settled permanently at Golovin Bay, where a +trading post was already established, and where +they are living happily to this day.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII.</h2> + +<h3>HOW THE LONG DAYS PASSED.</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/do.png" width="56" height="150" alt="O" title="O" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">N Saturday, November third, began a +great sewing of fur caps, children's +clothes, and also garments for the +teacher. For the caps, a pattern had +to be made before beginning, but +Alma and not I did it. About four in +the afternoon Mr. H., Mr. G. and Mr. +B. came in from the Home, having +worked all day at collecting driftwood +as they came along, piling it upon end +so it will not be buried in the snow, for that is the +only fuel we will have this winter, and it must be +gathered and hauled by the boys.</p> + +<p>While in the sitting room after supper three +gentlemen and the wife of one of them called to +spend the evening from the A. E. Company's +establishment. One was the manager and head of +the company's store here, another was his clerk, +and the man and his wife were neighbors.</p> + +<p>We soon found out that the young clerk had +been up the Koyuk River prospecting, and wanted +to go again. The boys want to go there themselves, +and we gathered considerable information +from our callers regarding the country, manner of +getting there, the best route, etc., and spent a pleasant +evening, as they seemed also to do.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span></p> + +<p>Sunday, November fourth, was marked as the +first time of holding church service in the schoolhouse +since our arrival, and a good number were +present. Twenty-two Eskimos and ten white people +made a cozy little audience for Mr. H. and his +interpreter, Ivan. I played the organ, and they all +sang from Gospel songs. For some reason a +lump would come up in my throat when I played +the old home songs that I had so many times +played under widely differing circumstances, thousands +of miles away; but under the current of sadness +there was one also of thanksgiving for protection +and guidance all the way.</p> + +<p>It was a motley crowd listening to the preacher +that day, from various and widely separated countries, +Sweden, Norway, Finland, United States, +Alaska and possibly some others, were represented +at this service as well as at the one of the evening +held in the Mission House which needed no extra +lights nor warming. A few more natives came in +at this time, and Mollie, the captain's wife, was +there with her mother. Again I played the instrument, +while the rest sang. The little sitting-room +and hall were crowded, seats having been brought +in from the kitchen, and some were standing at +the doors. One old Eskimo woman seemed in +deep trouble, for she wiped her eyes a great deal, +and she, with some others, were very dirty, at least +if odors tell stories without lying.</p> + +<p>Monday, November fifth: This has been a fine<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span> +day, and brought with it a new lot of experiences. +I took a few kodak views of a dog-team and fur-dressed +people in front of the Mission. After supper +four neighbors came (the same who called on +us the other evening) with their horse to take us +out for a moonlight ride, and it proved a very novel +one. A big, grey horse, with long legs supporting +his great hulk, and carrying him away up above us +as we sat on the sled; the conveyance, a home-made +"bob" sled upon which had been placed +rough boards piled with hay and fur robes for the +comfort of passengers, and the harness home-made +like the "rig," was ingeniously constructed of odds +and ends of old rope of different colors which the +men assured us, when interrogated upon the point, +were perfectly strong and secure.</p> + +<p>In it were knots, loops, twists, and coils, with +traces spliced at great length in order to keep us +clear of the horse's heels, but which frequently got +him entangled, so that he had to be released by the +footman (the clerk). When this occurred, the latter, +with an Indian war-whoop, leaped off the sledge, +flourished and cracked his big "black snake" +whip in air to encourage the animal to run faster, +and I, sitting with the driver on the front seat, +gripped for dear life the board upon which I sat. +No Jehu, I feel sure, ever drove as did our driver +tonight, assisted by the whooping footman with +his black snake. Through drifts and over the pond, +which was frozen, down steep banks to the beach,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span> +through snow deep and still deeper, helter-skelter +they drove, skurrying, shouting, urging the poor +beast on until he was wild of eye, short of breath, +weary in limb, and reeking.</p> + +<p>Overhead the air was clear as crystal, stars +bright, and a perfect full moon shining with brilliant +whiteness over all. Only the jingle of the +bells upon the horse, the shrieks of our footman +and driver, and the laughter of the passengers on +the "bob" broke the stillness of the quiet, frosty +air, which, in its intense purity and lightness +seemed fairly to vibrate with electricity as we +breathed.</p> + +<p>November sixth: I have spent the day at making +a warm winter hood for myself. Finding that +Mr. H. had grey squirrel skins, I bought six of +him for twenty-five cents apiece, for a lining for +hood and mittens. The hood I made pretty large +every way, sewing two red fox tails around the +face for a border to keep the wind off my face, as +is the Eskimo fashion.</p> + +<p>During the day G. and B. went out over the +beach to collect driftwood for winter, and G. came +home finally without his companion. It was +thought that B. went on to the Home, as he found +himself not so far from that as from the Mission, +where he would probably remain all night, and +come over next day. Two natives, with as many +reindeer and sleds, came for flour and other things, +taking Mr. H.'s trunk of clothing with them for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span> +the missionary. The little Eskimos were delighted +to see the deer, and ran out to them, petting and +talking to them. Then they rattled on among +themselves about the animals, inspecting and feeling +of their horns, patting their fat sides, calling +their names, and showing their pleasure at seeing +the pretty creatures in various ways. I did not +know which were of most interest, the deer with +long, branching antlers, sleek spotted sides and +funny heads, or the group of odd little Eskimo +children, with their plump dark faces, dressed in +furry parkies and boots, tumbling gleefully around +in the snow.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, November seventh: The weather +is beautifully clear and sunny today, with charming +sky effects at sunrise and sunset. Red, yellow and +crimson lines stretched far along the eastern horizon, +cut by vertical ones of lighter tints, until a +big golden ball climbed up higher, and by his increased +strength warmed the whole snowy landscape. +A few hours later, this great yellow ball, +looking bright and clear-cut, like copper, sank +gently beneath the long banks of purple-red clouds +massed in artistic and majestic confusion. Everything, +at this time, was enveloped in the cooler, +quieter tints of purple and blue, and hills, peaks, +and icy bay all lay bathed in exquisite color.</p> + +<p>The two Eskimos brought the reindeer back +from the Home today, stopped for lunch, and then +went on their way to the herd again. Ricka, Alma<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span> +and Miss J. went out as far as the cliff for a ride +on the sleds behind the deer, but I felt safer indoors. +Ricka says when the animals dashed over +the big bank, out upon the ice near the cliff, she +thought her last hour had come. At first the deer +trotted steadily along on the trail, but going faster +and faster they rushed headlong through the drifts, +dragging the sleds on one runner, and tearing up +the snow like a blizzard as they went, until it +seemed to the two girls, unused to such riding as +they were, that the animals were running away, +and they would be certainly killed.</p> + +<p>Miss J. was quite used to this kind of traveling, +and made no outcry, but Alma and Ricka finally +got the natives to stop the deer and let them get +off and walk home, saying it might be great fun +when one was accustomed to it.</p> + +<p>The sleds used by the natives are called reindeer +sleds because made especially for use when driving +deer. They are close to the ground, and very +strongly built, as they could not otherwise stand +the wear and tear of such "rapid transit." Side +rails are put on, but no high handle-bar at the back, +and when a load is placed upon the sled it is lashed +securely on with ropes or thongs made of seal or +walrus hide; otherwise there would be no load before +the journey was completed.</p> + +<p>Mr. H. says he has long experience with them, +but never feels quite sure that an animal will do +what is wanted of him, though when driven by natives +who are well used to their tricks and antics,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span> +especially if the animals have reached mature age, +they make good travelers, and get over the ground +very fast. A hundred miles a day is nothing to +them if the snow is not too deep and their load +reasonable.</p> + +<p>Men and dog-teams are coming into camp from +Nome each day now, and say that the trails are in +first-class condition. We hope for mail soon from +Nome. Mr. H. came, bringing with him a Swedish +preacher who is wintering here, though not officially +connected with the Mission. He is a sweet +singer, liking well to accompany his Swedish songs +upon the guitar or organ, for he plays both instruments.</p> + +<p>Mr. L. left at six in the morning for the Home, +walked there and back, and arrived at six in the +evening. He went to ask Mr. H. if he and the +others could have reindeer with which to go to +Koyuk River on a prospecting trip. He gave his +consent and they think of starting next week. They +think there may be some good creek up there that +would do to stake, and the clerk is going with +them.</p> + +<p>We have jolly times each evening singing, visiting +and knitting. My black stocking grows under +my needles a few inches each day, and will be warm +and comfortable footwear under my muckluks +surely.</p> + +<p>November eighth: Some ptarmigan were brought +in today, which are the first birds of the kind I have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> +seen, and they are beautiful. They look like snow-white +doves, only larger, with silky feathers and +lovely wings. They are soon to be cooked, for +they are the Arctic winter birds and make good +eating. We are all blessed with ravenous appetites.</p> + +<p>A man was killed with a club last night in a +drunken brawl, in a hotel near by. He only lived +a few hours after getting hurt, but it is said that +the other killed him in self defense. Both the +United States marshal and the commissioner were +away at the time. It is a pity they were not at +home, for the affair, perhaps, would then have been +prevented. There are probably not more than one +hundred white persons in the camp altogether, but +there must be fully half as many Eskimos, and they +are always coming and going. There are several +saloons (one kept by a woman), a large hotel and +one or two smaller ones, besides two or three company's +stores and a few log cabins and native huts, +besides the Mission.</p> + +<p>The boys want to get off as soon as possible for +Koyuk, but fear they will have to go to Nome for +camp stoves and pipe, as there are none to buy +here. They brought wood from the beach today +on the sleds, and there is no lack of fuel here, nor +of strong, willing arms to gather it. It seems a +long, long time to wait without hearing from the +home folks. I wonder how it seems to them. I +only wish they could see how comfortably and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span> +happily we are situated, and what jolly times we +have, for it would do their hearts good. Few are +so favored in all Alaska, of that I am certain.</p> + +<p>Saturday, November tenth: I have sewed all +day on a canvas coat for Mr. B., Alma helping with +the cutting. He wants it to put on over his fur +parkie to keep the snow and rain off it, and has +himself made the loops and fastenings. He whittled +out the buttons from small pieces of wood, +twisted cord to loop over them, and put them all +firmly on the coat so that it looks well, and will +be serviceable. I put a good-sized hood of the +same, with a fur border around the face, on the +coat, and it will be a good garment to hunt ptarmigan +in, for it is the color of snow, and the birds +cannot see him.</p> + +<p>The visiting preacher has had an experience in +being in the water, and from it has contracted +rheumatism in one limb, which he is nursing, so +he sits by the fire and plays and sings for us while +we sew. He is very pleasant, and all seem to like +him. The weather is not cold and Miss J. and Mr. +H. started out with reindeer for the Home at +seven in the morning. It was a singular sight to +see them when leaving. All the little natives in +fur parkies stood around, watching. The two +sleds were loaded with baggage, and Miss J. sat +on the top of one of them, holding the rope that +went under the body of the deer and around his +Head and horns for a harness. This deer was tied<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span> +to the back of the sled in front of him, and Mr. H. +went ahead having hold of the rope that was fastened +to the first deer.</p> + +<p>Sunday, November eleventh: We are having a +heavy and wet snow storm. All stayed in until +three in the afternoon, when we attended church +service in the schoolhouse. I played the organ, +the Swedish preacher read the Scriptures, and Ivan +interpreted. We sang hymns and songs, and the +hour was enjoyed by all, though the preacher did +not feel quite well enough acquainted with the English +to preach in that tongue, and Mr. H. was away. +There were about twenty natives present, and ten +or twelve white people, Miss E. remaining at home +to get the dinner. I went in thought over the great +waters to my southern home, where today the +churches are decorated with palms and floral beauties, +and I saw the friends in their accustomed +seats—but I was not there. Thousands of miles +away to the frozen north we have come, and little +do we know if we shall ever see home again. Tears +came to my eyes, but I kept them hidden, for none +shall say I am homesick; I am glad to be here. I +have faith to believe that the Father's loving watch-care +will be still further extended, and I shall reach +my homeland and friends some time in the future.</p> + +<p>November thirteenth: Weather is warm, wet, +and sunny. Water is running in the bay and snow +is soft under foot. I worked this afternoon on a +mitten pattern for myself, assisted by Alma. Evidently +pattern making was intended for others to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span> +do, for though my spirit is as willing as possible, +the flesh is very weak in that direction; but I did +finally get a mitten, thumb and all, that looks not +half bad. This was banner day for my laundry +work, and my handkerchiefs have been ironed for +the first time since I sailed from San Francisco. +Heretofore I was in luck to get a time and place +in which to wash them. At half-past four o'clock in +the afternoon, when it was too dark to sew longer, +Alma, Ricka and I went out upon the beach to +meet the boys who had been gathering wood, and +we walked a half mile over the rough trail of ice +blocks, drifts and hummocks.</p> + +<p>We floundered on through all until we saw them +coming, and then sat resting on some logs until +they came up. Two of Mr. H.'s dogs, Fido and +Muckaleta, had followed us, and ran at our heels +playing in the snow, which was more than one +foot deep in places. The boys had found a long +ladder on the beach, probably from some wreck, +and they had brought it on the sled with the wood. +It was most difficult work hauling the sled over the +uneven trail, and all were puffing and perspiring +when they reached home.</p> + +<p>A little prayer meeting was afterwards held in +the kitchen during which Mr. H. and Miss J. +came in from the Home with reindeer, tired and +hungry. We spent a pleasant evening visiting, +singing and knitting.</p> + +<p>A man has come from Nome, and says that the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span> +steamer bringing Mission supplies from San Francisco +was obliged during the last hard storm to +throw some of its cargo overboard, and part of the +Mission's stores were thus lost. All are sorry to +hear this, as it means a shortage of necessary +things, like furniture for the Home, where much is +needed.</p> + +<p>November fourteenth: Miss J. has taken in two +more little Eskimos, a girl and a boy. First of all, +she cuts their hair close to their heads, then each +has a good bath in the tub, and they are dressed in +clean clothing from head to foot, and fed plentifully. +This was their program, and they look +very happy after it, and evidently feel as well and +look better. This boy seems to be about ten years +old, and the girl a little older, but it is not customary +among the Eskimos to keep account of +their ages, and so nobody really knows how old +any one is.</p> + +<p>Alma has cut over a big reindeer skin parkie +for the visiting preacher, and a fur sleeping bag for +Miss J., while Ricka has made a fine cap for Mr. +H. of dog's skin, lined with cloth. This morning +when the men went out to the hills where their two +reindeer had been tied in the moss, the animals +were gone, and Ivan returned fearing that they +had been stolen, but when Mr. H., G. and B. +went to look, they found no men's footprints, and +concluded that they had broken away and gone +back to the herd, as their tracks went in that direction.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span> +Mr. H. went on after them, and the two +boys came home wet with perspiration from +floundering about in the deep, soft snow, and wearing +their heavy rubber boots. I gave them coffee +when they got back.</p> + +<p>I have sewed on my new mittens, and done some +knitting, besides tending the baby, who runs +quickly from one thing to another like any other +mischievous child, getting into first one thing, +and then some other, which must be coaxed away +from her by management. I usually do this by +giving her some new plaything, if I can possibly +find any article she has never yet had. A box of +needles, buttons and thread she likes best of anything +I have yet found, and a grand reckoning +day will come before long when Alma finds the +little Eskimo has been amusing herself with her +property.</p> + +<p>Mr. G. found a part of somebody's outfit, consisting +of clothing and tin dishes, on the beach today. +Miss J. held a little meeting again in the +kitchen for the natives after supper, and is very +happy over having the two new little Eskimos.</p> + +<p>This is our fourth week in the Mission, and pleasant +and happy ones they have been, at least, if +there have been vexations to some, they have succeeded +admirably in keeping them out of sight.</p> + +<p>November fifteenth: The weather is still warm, +wet and slippery under foot. This morning a +young man called from Nome, with a letter from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span> +Mary, saying she is coming by dog-team as soon as +the trails are good.</p> + +<p>The commissioner called today to get the +preacher to officiate at the funeral of the man who +was killed, but it was postponed until tomorrow, +because the grave could not be finished before +dark. The commissioner sat for half an hour, +and chatted in the sitting room.</p> + +<p>November sixteenth: All hands are at work now +for the children, and overalls, waists and shirts for +the little boys as well as garments for the girls are +on the docket. The big boys fished, and got smelt +and tom-cod. B. sewed at mittens for himself, +and G. took the church organ to pieces to clean +and repair it. Mr. M., who has been at work on +the Home, has come here to spend the winter. +I wish he would set to work and catch some of the +mice which infest the house, and run over me +when I am asleep in the night time.</p> + +<p>A meeting for the natives in the house again tonight, +and the doors had to be left open on account +of the pungent seal oil perfume from the +garments of the Eskimos.</p> + +<p>The man who was killed was buried today in +the edge of the little graveyard on the hillside. +The Swedish preacher was asked to go to the +grave, and he did so, reading a Psalm, and offering +a prayer. Only four or five men were present. +It is a stony, lonely place, without a tree in +sight; the few scattering graves having only<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span> +wooden slabs for head boards. Being just above +the beach, the spot commands a view of the bay +in front, but it is now all a snow and ice desert, +and the most dreary place imaginable. Very little +was known of the murdered man, and no good +could be said of him, but it is supposed that he +has a wife and children somewhere.</p> + +<p>What a dreadful ending! Will his family ever +know what has become of him, and is his mother +still living? If so, I hope they may never learn +of his horrid death and worthless life in Alaska. +He was never conscious for a moment after being +hurt, so they know nothing as to where to write to +his relatives. It makes one shudder to think of it! +He may have been a good and bright child, beloved +by parents and brothers, but the drink curse +claimed him for its own.</p> + +<p>The weather is clear, with sunshine and frost. +The visiting preacher has been making himself useful +for a few days by helping us in cutting out overalls +and blouses for the Eskimo boys. Down on +his knees upon the floor, with shears, rolls of +denim, and a pair of small trousers to pattern by, +he has wielded the little steel instrument to good +purpose, and encouraged and assisted us greatly.</p> + +<p>With their new clothes, the children are all quite +well pleased, for they are fresh and sweet. The +missionaries are trying very hard to teach them +cleanliness among other things, and they sometimes +come and stand in the doorway and look at<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span> +us sewing, their faces always good natured, and +showing more or less curiosity. When told to +run away to play, they obey quickly, and little Pete +and the others like to keep the wood boxes filled +to help us. The older girls being from ten to +twelve years of age, are often caring for and amusing +Bessie, and she is fond of them, until, like any +other child, she cannot have her own way, and +then she disapproves of them by kicking and +screaming till Miss J. comes to settle the business.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVIII" id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a>CHAPTER XVIII.</h2> + +<h3>SWARMING.</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/da.png" width="56" height="150" alt="A" title="A" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">RCTIC explorers have always found it +a difficult matter to keep pleasantly +and profitably employed during the +long winter months, and I have often +wondered how it would be with ourselves. +So far, there seems to be no +scarcity of employment for all hands, +neither is there any prospect of it. +For the men there is always the beach-wood +to collect, haul and saw up into +firewood, not to mention the splitting with an +axe, which is, I believe, as hard work as any of +it, and there is water to bring in barrels each day +or two from Chinik Creek, a mile away, for drinking +and cooking purposes. The barrels are put +upon sleds and hauled by the men themselves, or +by the dogs if they happen to be here, and are not +at work. As to the reindeer, of course there can +be no such thing as making them haul either wood +or water, for none could be found steady enough, +and should the experiment be tried, there are ten +chances to one that not a stick of wood would remain +upon the sleds, nor a drop of water in the +barrels, while the distance between creek and +Mission was being made.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span></p> + +<p>Of course there is always enough for women to +do if they are housekeeping, and with sewing, knitting +and what recreation we take out of doors, we +fill in the time very well. It is much better and +pleasanter to be employed, and the time passes +much more rapidly than when one is idle, and I +for one enjoy the change of work and the winter's +outlook immensely. Compared to what we have +done in Nome during the summer, this is child's +play, and the boys who have worked at real mining +say the same thing.</p> + +<p>November seventeenth: We have had our first +lady visitor today who came from White Mountain +about fifteen miles away. She is the lady +doctor who brought Miss J. through typhoid fever +last fall, and is much at home here. She was sent +for by a sick woman in the hotel, and will spend the +night with Miss J., who is very kind to her. The +visiting preacher left for the Home this morning +very early, going with a native and reindeer. Mr. +L. and B. were called in to the jury trial of the +murderer who killed the man in the hotel the other +night, and they got home late. The girls were out +upon the ice in the evening for exercise, getting +tired of being indoors all day long, and needing +fresh air. When all were in at half-past eleven in +the evening, coffee and crackers were taken by all +but me, but I have had to leave off drinking coffee, +taking hot water with cream and sugar instead. B. +says he thinks the latter too stimulating.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="i267" id="i267"></a> +<a href="images/267.jpg"><img src="images/267t.jpg" width="400" height="289" alt="" title="" /></a> +ESKIMO DOGS.</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span></p> + +<p>This has been a bright and cold Sunday for +November eighteenth. Mr. H. walked in to nine +o'clock breakfast from the Home, coming by dog-team, +and looked well dressed and smiling. No +service was held until evening, so we went out for +a walk upon the hill behind the house. B. and L. +left us to go and examine some wood that natives +were hauling away from the beach, thinking it was +some of theirs, for each stick is marked, so they +know their own; but it proved not to be their wood, +and the two then came home another way.</p> + +<p>While out, we walked through the small burial +ground, and saw the new-made grave of the murdered +man. O, how desolate was that spot! A +few mounds, stones, snow and bleak winds forever +blowing. Here we read a headboard, upon which +was the name and age of good old Dr. Bingham +of New England, who died here years ago, and +whose wife planted wild roses upon the grave. I +wonder if we will see them in bloom next summer, +or will we be under the snow ourselves like these +others.</p> + +<p>For our dinner today we ate fried tom-cod, +baked potatoes, tomatoes, pickles, bread and butter, +and rice pudding. I feel positive that nothing +could have tasted better to our home folks in the +States who have more fruit and vegetables than +did this plain and homely meal to us, eaten with +the heartiest appetites gotten out of doors while +walking in the snow. The ice in the bay is getting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span> +firmer, and will continue to grow thicker all winter, +being in the spring at breaking-up time many feet +through, no doubt, as it was in Minnesota in the +Red River of the North when I lived there. I +am glad that I am a cold climate creature, and was +born in winter in a wintry state, for I will be +sure to endure Alaska weather better than I otherwise +would.</p> + +<p>This evening we had service again in the church +or schoolhouse, and the room was quite filled. +The woman doctor was there, also the storekeeper +and the United States Marshal, besides our own +family, and a good many natives. Mr. H. +preached, and was interpreted in Eskimo as usual. +I wish some of my fastidious friends on the outside +could have seen the cosmopolitan company of +tonight.</p> + +<p>The refined and serious face of the storekeeper, +the black-eyed doctor (woman), the fair-faced +Swedes, and the square-jawed, determined official, +made a striking contrast to the Eskimos dressed in +fur parkies, and smelling of seal oil. Many of the +latter continually carry small children on their +backs underneath their parkies, a heavy belt or +girdle of some sort keeping the youngster from +falling to the ground, but the smaller ones are seldom +brought out in the evening. These women +squat upon the floor as often as they sit upon a +chair, and when a baby cries from hunger he is +promptly fed on ahmahmuk, (mother's milk,) regardless<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span> +of the assembled company. With an +Eskimo mother nothing comes before the child's +wishes, and if the latter only succeeds in making +his desires known to her, she will obey them to the +letter. That there are unruly Eskimo youngsters, +goes without saying, as a child does not need a +white skin to help him understand this, and arrange +his tactics accordingly.</p> + +<p>The Mission is crowded to its utmost, but I believe +the hearts of the good missionaries are made +of elastic.</p> + +<p>When we reached the house after service this +evening we heard that a mail was expected, and +would leave for Dawson tomorrow, so we set to +work to write letters, and then found it all a mistake, +for it is only going to Nome from Unalaklik, +and we were all disappointed.</p> + +<p>The weather today, November seventeenth, is +a great surprise to us. It is raining, and so icy +underfoot as to be positively dangerous to life and +limb. I had occasion to go out for a while this +forenoon, and knew no better than to wear my +muckluks, which are smooth as glass on the +bottoms. To make things more lively, the wind +blew a gale from the northeast.</p> + +<p>When I left the house, I was going in the same +direction as the wind, and though I nearly fell +many times I kept stubbornly on, determined not +to be vanquished. On my return—then came the +"tug of war." Near the warehouse a gust of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span> +wind took me unawares, and, whisk! in a minute +I was sprawling flat upon the ice. I had gone out +with my Indian blanket over my head and shoulders, +and this blew out like a sail, upsetting my tall +and slippery footed craft, and bumping me ignominiously.</p> + +<p>I now tried to rise, but could not. Turn as I +would, using my hands to steady me, I only made +a vain effort to get upon my feet, as I slipped +each time quite flat again. Thinking to turn +first, and get upon my knees, I tried that, but +rolled like a fuzzy caterpillar in a ball upon the +ice. Then, alas, I regret to relate it, but I really +began to feel a little vexed. I began calling loudly, +supposing that someone in the house would hear +me, and come to my assistance; but the wind carried +my voice away faster than I could throw it, +and that availed me nothing. At no other time +since my arrival at the Mission I felt certain had +there been so long a lull between the passing of its +inmates through its doors; but now, because of my +present strait, they all remained indoors.</p> + +<p>In the meantime I had thrown my hands out +suddenly into water which stood in little pools in +depressions of the ice around me, and I lay there +getting more vexed than ever. Again I tried to +rise, but failed. A stranger would suppose me +tipsy, to be sure, and I glanced around to make +certain no one saw me. Finally the door opened, +and Miss L. came out.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span></p> + +<p>"What is the matter?" and she began laughing +at my predicament.</p> + +<p>"Matter enough!" I shouted. "Can't you see? +I can't get up to save my life. Do come and help +me," and I began struggling upon my slippery bed +again to convince her.</p> + +<p>Still she only laughed, standing in the wind with +her hands upon her hips in order to keep her balance.</p> + +<p>"Do come and help me," I begged, "or go in +and send one of the boys, for I shall stay here all +day if you do not."</p> + +<p>When she had her laugh out, she came forward +and assisted me to my feet, and into the house, +where I finally smoothed my ruffled feathers, and +recovered my equanimity, telling Miss L. I would +pay her back in her own coin when I got the +opportunity.</p> + +<p>A native has come with reindeer to carry a load +of goods to the Home, but cannot leave on account +of the icy trail until tomorrow, or whenever it +freezes again.</p> + +<p>Today is November twenty-first, and the weather +is still soft and bad under foot, so the family cannot +move to the Home until the trail is in better +condition. B. shot more ptarmigan, and we had a +dinner of them, which was excellent. They almost +seem too pretty to kill, but fresh meat is +scarce nowadays, and we must take it when we can +get it.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span></p> + +<p>November twenty-second has come, and with +it colder weather. It is five degrees below zero, +and the sun shines. The doctor from White Mountain +has been helping Miss J. pack her large medicine +chest ready for moving, as many of these supplies +will be left in this house.</p> + +<p>Since the days are colder we have most beautiful +skies at sunrise, though we now keep the lamps +burning until half-past eight in the morning.</p> + +<p>We have heard that the Nome mail is in, but it +brought nothing to me. We are writing letters +to send out the first chance we get, whenever that +will be, but nobody knows so far.</p> + +<p>The Commissioner called today and told us of a +new strike at the headwaters of Fish River; a +man and woman coming down to record a bunch of +twenty claims having given the information. The +woman runs a roadhouse on the Neukluk River, +and wants to take an Eskimo boy to raise, and +teach to work—probably it is mostly the latter, +though she seemed a kindly person. Miss J. told +her that she had no boy to give away.</p> + +<p>The Marshal and the man in the old schoolhouse +started with dogs to Norton Bay today +for a short trip, so we hear. The wife of the man +went with small Eskimo boys to the bay to fish +for tom-cod.</p> + +<p>Alma is making a fur sleeping bag of reindeer +skins for the teacher, so when she travels she can<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span> +have it to sleep in nights. It is very heavy to +hold and handle while sewing.</p> + +<p>Two men called who have been shipwrecked in +Norton Bay, and told of the H. family, consisting +of the father, mother, and little daughter whom +I have seen in Nome. They lost all their clothing, +but saved part of their "grub," and we have made +up a package of clothing to send to the woman and +child by the men who are going back there. In +the darkness, one night, they say the schooner +"Lady George" went aground on the mud flats of +Norton Bay, the tide rising soon after, and all having +to flee for their lives to nearby ice, from which +they went ashore to a log hut long ago deserted. +The child, who is about twelve years old, is now +without clothing, and winter is coming on.</p> + +<p>The fates are hard on some people, surely, and +this little girl lately from San Francisco, the public +school, and piano lessons, is left with her parents +in an Arctic wilderness in winter without clothing +or shelter, except a poor broken hut, and a few +men's garments generously donated. The men +say that her mother is almost wild over it, and +they thought at first that she would go insane, +but the brave little child does all she can do to +comfort her mother, and the men begged us to +send them some things. Among the clothing we +sent I put in a few school books, a slate, some +pencils, and a Bible, which may be of use in lonely<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span> +hours. They may read the good book now if they +never have before. They are Swedish people.</p> + +<p>It is three degrees below zero today, November +twenty-fifth, clear, bright and cold. Mr. H. came +with a man and his dog-teams to move the whole +family tomorrow to the Home. All are delighted +to go there, as we are to remain here. The shipwrecked +men called again to tell us more fully +about their experiences, and are now going back +to their camp. They certainly had an awful time, +but they are glad and thankful to have come out +alive, and we are also glad for their sakes.</p> + +<p>Two of the Commissioners have been here, one +from fifty miles away, wanting to buy a reindeer for +his Thanksgiving dinner, but Mr. H. would not +sell one. He has been very urgent, and called a +number of times, but Mr. H. is firm in refusing. +Our good dinner today was made up of mutton +stew with onions, baked potatoes, tomatoes, fruit +soup, bread, butter and coffee. I have taken a +few kodak views today of Miss J. and the Eskimo +baby, Bessie, and hope they will be good.</p> + +<p>November twenty-sixth: It is ten degrees below +zero, but the whole household was up early this +morning to move over the ice to the new Home. +Four big dog sleds were piled high with household +things, the baby was tucked into a fur sleeping-bag +with only her head out, at which she howled lustily, +Miss J. running beside the team to comfort her, +while Mr. H., his assistant and Ivan, with Mr. G.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span> +of our party, ran ahead of the dogs. Breakfast +was eaten at eight o'clock in the morning, and all +was hurly burly and excitement till they had gone. +Ricka, Alma and I ran out to the beach to see them +off upon the ice, as then they would have fair +traveling, but we were afraid they would tip everything +over at the bank where the drifts are high, +and blocks of ice piled in places. Everything was +lashed tightly down, however, and no accident occurred. +All the children but Bessie ran alongside +the sleds to keep warm, and they had lunches with +them to eat when they were hungry. When the +smaller ones grew tired, I suppose they rode for a +while on the sleds. It was eleven o'clock in the +morning, and the bright sun shone directly in our +faces as we stood waving good-bye to them, really +sorry to see them leave us. The hills, almost bare +of snow, lay pink and lovely under the sunshine.</p> + +<p>After lunch M. went out, slipped on the ice and +fractured his collar bone. The Dawson man in the +old schoolhouse, (who claims to be a doctor), +brought him indoors, but poor M. was pretty pale. +The man, with G.'s help, attended to his hurt, put +his arm in a sling, and he is lying on the lounge +looking serious, but not discontented nor suffering +severely.</p> + +<p>We were not to have so small a family many +hours, as we found at about five o'clock in the afternoon +today, when there was a great commotion +at the door. There were men's voices, a woman's<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span> +jolly laughter, and the quick barking of dogs, glad +to reach their journey's end, and when we opened +the door to those knocking, there were Mary and +two friends from Nome with their dog-teams. In +they came, laughing, talking and brushing the frost +off their parkies, glad to get here, and hungry from +traveling, so we gave them a warm welcome, and +good hot coffee and supper.</p> + +<p>Then Mary, (real Viking that she is, and from +Tromso, in Norway,) related the story of her journey +by dog-team. Eighty-five miles, they call it, +from Nome by water to Chinik, but overland it is +probably farther. Nights were spent in the roadhouses, +she said, but there was little sleep to be +had in them, for they were crowded and noisy, +and she was thankful the trip was now ended, and +she had safely arrived.</p> + +<p>The two young men who came with her seem +nice, honest fellows, and I am acquainted with one +of them from seeing him at the "Star" many times, +where he often ground coffee to help evenings, +or chatted in the kitchen when we worked.</p> + +<p>From Nome they had brought two sled loads, +on one of them a cook stove for the winter, as the +big range in use here now will go later to the +Home, besides which they had food supplies and +stove pipes.</p> + +<p>At night Mr. L. came back from the reindeer +station, saying that they can have four reindeer<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span> +for their prospecting trip to the Koyuk River, and +they are making up their party to go there.</p> + +<p>November twenty-seventh: I was washing the +dishes this morning in the kitchen, when Mr. L. +came quietly to say he will take my attorney paper +and stake a gold claim for me. He will do his +best, he says, for me as well as the others, for +which I cordially thanked him, and flew on wings +to get the desired paper made out, as the others +were also doing.</p> + +<p>At half-past three o'clock in the afternoon today +the lamps were lighted, and at four o'clock in +the afternoon a mail got in from Nome, but +brought no letters for me, as all steamers have long +since stopped running, and I am not corresponding +with any one at Nome. I wonder when I will +hear from my home folks?</p> + +<p>Our legal documents cost us each $2.50.</p> + +<p>November twenty-eighth: This has been a fine +day out of doors, and a busy one indoors. Mr. +H. with a man and two natives came with the dog-teams +to take what household stuff they could +carry, and they took the organ with the rest. I +hated to see it go, but we are to have the one in +the church, which G. has just cleaned and brought +into the house, as the frost in that building is bad +for it. They loaded their sleds, then ate a lunch at +half-past eleven o'clock in the morning, and +started. The two boys from Nome also left for +that place, they being quite rested, as well as their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span> +dogs. Drilling parkies they wore to "mush" in, +their furs and other traps being lashed to the sleds; +and bidding us good-bye, one ran ahead, and the +other behind the dogs.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIX" id="CHAPTER_XIX"></a>CHAPTER XIX.</h2> + +<h3>NEW QUARTERS.</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/da.png" width="56" height="150" alt="A" title="A" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">FTER thinking for some time of doing +so, I finally decided to call at the hotel +and ask the captain and his wife if I +might not teach their little black-eyed +girl English, as Miss J.'s leaving deprives +her of a teacher. The woman +was not in when I called, but the child's +father seemed to think favorably of my +plan, and said he would consult with +his wife, so I hope to get the child for +a pupil.</p> + +<p>B. and G. have moved all their things into the +house from the schoolroom, and Ricka hung the +clothes she has been all day washing out there to +dry. There is a small stove in which a fire is often +made to dry them more quickly. It is most convenient +to have such a place for drying clothes, as +it is impossible to get them dry outside on the lines +in the frost and snow.</p> + +<p>We spent the evening pleasantly together in the +sitting room, listening to B.'s jokes, and Mary's +stories of Nome and the "trail."</p> + +<p>For our Thanksgiving dinner we had canned +turkey, potatoes, tomatoes, pickles, fruit, soup, +bread, butter, and coffee, trying hard not to think<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span> +of our home friends and their roast turkeys and +cranberries. However, the dinner was a good one +for Alaska, eaten with relish, and all were jolly +and very thankful, even M., with his sore collar-bone, +laughing with the rest.</p> + +<p>November thirtieth: Mr. H. came with a man, +two natives, seven reindeer and four sleds to take +more furniture away. They all ate dinner here, +and I took some kodak views of the animals with +Alma, Ricka, Mary, G. and a native driver in the +sunshine in front of the Mission. Mary goes up +to the animals and pets them, as does Ricka, but I +keep a good way off from their horns, as they look +ugly, and one old deer has lost his antlers, with +the exception of one bare, straight one a yard +long, which, with an angry beast behind it, would, +however, be strong enough to toss a person in mid-air +if the creature was so minded.</p> + +<p>There has been some hitch in the arrangements +of the men going to the Koyuk River, and there is +a delay, but they will get off some day, because L. +never gives up anything he attempts to do, and I +like him for that. If more people were like this, +they being always certain that they were started +in the right direction, the world would be the +better for it.</p> + +<p>December first: Mr. B. is making bunks in two +rooms upstairs, as the house is so full all the time. +This will give quite a little more lodging room, +for cots cannot be provided for all, neither is there<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span> +room for so many, but with bunks, one above another, +it will furnish lodgings for all who come.</p> + +<p>Our two fisher women went out again this afternoon, +and got tom-cod through the ice by the cliff, +near the snow-buried river steamers.</p> + +<p>About four o'clock in the afternoon I called on +the captain's wife, and found her sewing furs. For +her helper she had her cousin Alice, the coy, plump +Eskimo girl, who traveled to San Francisco with +her last year. Both women sat upon fur rugs on +the floor, as is their custom when sewing, and +they were sorting bright beads, and cutting moosehide +into moccasins and gauntlet gloves, to be +decorated with beads in the fashion of the Yukon +River Indians.</p> + +<p>I had no difficulty in arranging for lessons with +the captain's wife, who would also study with her +little girl, she said, and she showed me school +books, slates, etc., they had already been using. +If their piano were only here, the child, who is a +pretty little thing, with a sweet smile, might take +music lessons, but it cannot be brought over the +winter trail.</p> + +<p>We had snow today, but no church service. We +rested, sang, read, ate and slept. A fine dinner of +reindeer roast, with good gravy, mashed potatoes, +etc., for our two o'clock meal, was eaten and well +relished; but in spite of all the day seemed a long +one for some reason. We wonder how things are +going on the outside and if the friends we love<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span> +but cannot hear from are well, happy, and think +sometimes of us.</p> + +<p>The Commissioner came to say that he would +bring the Recorder, or Commissioner, from the +Koyuk district with him to call this evening, and +he did so. The latter is a middle-aged man, whose +family lives in Minneapolis, Minnesota, he himself +being a native born Norwegian, but having lived +in the States for twenty years. They brought two +United States marshals with them, and one of them +played on the guitar quite well, though I thought +I detected a scent of the bottle when he sang his +songs. He has a good voice, but untrained.</p> + +<p>Yesterday it was fifteen degrees below zero, but +grew warmer toward night, and began snowing. +Today it snowed quite hard until dark. Along the +shore huge blocks of ice lay heaped promiscuously, +and deep drifts rolled smoothly everywhere. When +I grew tired walking I stopped a moment and listened. +There was no sound but the beating of my +own heart. This then was our new Arctic world. +How wonderfully beautiful it was in its purity and +stillness. Look whichever way I would, all was +perfect whiteness and silence. When I walked the +snow scarcely creaked under my feet. Above, beneath, +around, it was everywhere the same. It was +a solemn stillness, but ineffably sweet and tender. +It was good to live. A feeling of sweetest peace +and happiness swept over me, and tears sprang to +my eyes. Was this heaven? It almost seemed like<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span> +it, but glancing toward the grave of the murdered +man on the hillside I remembered that this could +not be. Farther down the shore line, when I +started to go home, I saw the smoke of the cabins, +through the veil of the snowflakes.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 252px;"><a name="i284" id="i284"></a> +<a href="images/284.jpg"><img src="images/284t.jpg" width="252" height="400" alt="" title="" /></a> +WINTER PROSPECTING.</div> + +<p>While giving Jennie her lessons this afternoon +the Commissioner came in to say that he would like +me to do some copying for him, for as yet he has +no clerk, and needs one. I told him I would do +the work if I might take it home, and could get a +quiet corner by myself. I hardly see how I am to +manage that while there are so many people in the +house, but I shall try it, for I would like to earn +the money.</p> + +<p>This morning it was three degrees above zero; +yesterday it was fifteen below.</p> + +<p>A full moon hung high in the sky this morning +until nine o'clock. Weather is warm and beautiful, +with rosy clouds at sunrise, but it grew colder by +noon.</p> + +<p>Among other things Mary has brought from +Nome is her little hand sewing machine, which is +an old-fashioned thing, to be fastened to a table +and the wheel turned by hand. It was brought from +the old country, and looks quite well worn, but is +still useful and far better than no machine, if it +does have a chain stitch which is liable to rip easily. +We have a lot of amusement with this machine, for +when Alma is sewing and one of the boys happens +to be idle about her she makes him turn the wheel<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span> +while she guides the cloth and watches the needle.</p> + +<p>Others besides myself are wearing muckluks by +this time, though not all have come to them, the +felt shoes being worn in the house some by the girls +until severe cold forces them into the native boots +of reindeer skin.</p> + +<p>In her rooms at the hotel Mollie sits with Alice +each day on the fur rugs, cutting, sewing and beading +moccasins and moosehide gloves. A regular +workshop it is. Boxes of thread, beads, scraps of +fur, whole otter skins, paper patterns, shears, bits +of hair and fur scattered upon the floor, and the +walls covered with hanging fur garments; this is +the sewing-room of the captain's wife as it is now +each day when I go there. The room contains two +large windows, one on the north side and one on +the west, at which hang calico curtains tied back +with blue ribbons in daytime. These women work +very rapidly, with the thimble upon the first finger +and by pushing the three-cornered skin needle +deftly through skins they are sewing. The thread +they use for this work is made by them from the +sinews of reindeer, and takes hours of patient picking +and rolling between fingers and palms to get +spliced and properly twisted, but when finished is +very strong and lasting. Their sewing and bead +work is quite pretty and unique, and is done with +exceeding neatness and care, though not much attention +is bestowed upon colors.</p> + +<p>Friday, December seventh, has been a busy day<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span> +all round. L. and B. started off early after breakfast +on a prospecting trip, and the girls kept at +their sewing. Mr. H. came from the Home to get +the sewing machine and some lumber, and was +packing up nearly all day, so that we are still quite +unsettled, but it is much pleasanter for him to come +to a warm house and where he gets hot meals after +his twelve miles over the ice with the deer or dogs.</p> + +<p>He left here at four in the afternoon and had +been gone only an hour when Mr. F. and another +man came from Nome, on the way to the Koyuk. +Getting well warmed and eating a hearty supper, +which was much enjoyed after some days on the +trail, they started with two reindeer and as many +sleds for the Home, which is on the way to Koyuk. +Another hour passed and two women and their +guide from White Mountain came in, these belonging +to the same party as the last men going to the +Koyuk, and these three had to remain over night +as it was too late to push on further. The men +brought their fur robes and blankets from their +sleds, threw them into the bunks in the west room, +and called it a good lodging place compared to the +cramped and disorderly roadhouses upon the +trails.</p> + +<p>December eighth: We had a fire fright this +morning, which was not enjoyed by any one in the +Mission. Mary had gotten up early, and two fires +were already going, one in the kitchen range and +one in the sitting room heater near my bed. It was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span> +still dark at half-past seven and I was awake, thinking +seriously of dressing myself, though there was +no hurry, for Mary was the only one yet up, when +I saw a shower of large sparks of fire or burning +cinders falling to the ground outside the window. +I rushed into the kitchen telling Mary what I had +seen, and she ran outside and looked up toward the +chimney. Fire, smoke and cinders poured out in +a stream, but she satisfied herself it was soot burning +in the sitting-room chimney.</p> + +<p>Coming in, she pulled most of the wood from the +heater, scattered salt upon the coals, and by this +time all in the house were down stairs, asking what +had happened.</p> + +<p>M. says he will also take my attorney paper and +stake a claim for me, as he has decided to go to +the Koyuk with the men who came last night from +Nome. They have a horse, but as it is almost worn +to the bone and nearly starved, they hardly think +he can travel much farther. M. wants me to get +him some location notices from the Commissioner +when I see him. When coming home from Jennie's +lesson this afternoon I was turning the corner of +the hotel when the wind took me backward toward +the bay for thirty feet or more, and deposited me +against an old wheelbarrow turned bottom upwards +in the snow. To this I clung desperately, keeping +my presence of mind enough to realize my danger +if blown out upon the ice fifty feet away and below +me, where I would be unable to make myself either<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span> +seen or heard in the blinding storm and would +soon be buried in the snow drifts and frozen.</p> + +<p>In my right hand I carried my small leather handbag +containing a dozen or more deeds and other +documents to be recorded for the Commissioner, +and if the wind blew this from my hand for an instant +I was surely undone, for it would never be +recovered. I now clung to the barrow until I had +regained my breath and then made a quick dash +for the lee or south side of the hotel out of the gale, +and into the living-room again. Here I sat down +to rest, trembling and breathless, to consider the +best way to get home. It was now dark, the snow +blinding, and the gale from the northeast fearful. +A stout young Eskimo sat near me, and I finally +asked him to take me home, to which he consented.</p> + +<p>The Mission was only a few hundred feet away, +but to reach it we had to go directly into the teeth +of the storm, which was coming from the northeast.</p> + +<p>Not six feet ahead of us could we see, but I +trusted to the sense of my Eskimo guide to lead +me safely home, and he did it. Motioning me to +follow him, he proceeded to pass through the building +and out the east end entrance, notwithstanding +that he led me directly through the bar-room of the +hotel, where the idlers stared wonderingly at me. +Once outside the door, he grasped my right arm +firmly and we started, but he kept his body a little<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span> +ahead of me, and with side turned from the blizzard +instead of facing it.</p> + +<p>In this sidelong way we struggled on with all +our strength, through snow drifts, against the elements +in the darkness, with breath blown from our +bodies, and eyes blinded by whirling snow. Now +and again I was forced to stop to gain breath for +a fresh struggle, and when we reached the Mission +we staggered into the door as if drunken. I now +found that all my clothing was blown so full of fine +snow that the latter seemed fairly a part of the +cloth, would not be shaken out, and only a thorough +drying would answer. A good, hot cup of +coffee was handed to each of us, and my Eskimo +guide sat until rested, but I think I shall take +Alma's sage advice, and in future remain at home +during blizzards.</p> + +<p>Of course M. and the other men could not leave +for the Koyuk as they intended, but they do not +appear to be discontented at having to remain under +our roof longer, as they seem to be enjoying +themselves very well, and say it is all really home-like +here in the Mission.</p> + +<p>I am working on the Recorder's books, and like +the work fairly well.</p> + +<p>This is a stormy Sunday, December ninth, but +the weather is not so bad as yesterday, and B. and +L. came back from the Home. We have eight men +here today, including the two young fellows who +have been at work on the Home building, and who<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span> +came over from Nome weeks before the rest of us. +This is the first time they have been here since we +arrived. They, too, are Swedes, as are all these +men but M., who is a Finlander.</p> + +<p>For dinner we had reindeer roast with flour +gravy, potatoes, plum butter, rye and white bread +and butter, coffee and tapioca pudding. The potatoes +taste pretty sweet from being frozen, but are +better than none. We have had music from the +guitar, mandolin and organ, besides vocal exercise +without limit, and with all this I found time to do +some Sunday reading in Drummond's Year Book, +and have well enjoyed the day.</p> + +<p>The thermometer registers thirteen degrees below +zero, and at half-past eight in the evening the +wind was not blowing much; enough blizzard for +this time certainly.</p> + +<p>While talking with one of the men from Nome +I asked if he supposed there was gold in the Koyuk +country, and he thought there was. As he was up +there all last summer, he ought to know the prospects. +It appears that there is a split in his party, +or a disagreement of some kind, as is quite the +fashion in Alaska, and some of the men are to remain +behind. As soon as the weather clears sufficiently +they will go to the Home, and from there +leave for Koyuk River.</p> + +<p>Monday, December tenth: The Commissioner, +the Marshal, and three of their friends came in to +spend the evening with us, and one of the strangers<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span> +sang well, accompanying himself on the organ. He +also belongs to a party made up to go to Koyuk, +but failed to reach that point, and they are staying +in Chinik.</p> + +<p>I bought two red fox skins today for ten dollars, +but will have to pay five dollars more for their +cleaning by a native woman, to whom I have given +them for that purpose. It is the only kind of fur +I can find of which to make a coat, and I must +have one of skins, as the wind goes straight +through cloth, no matter how thick it is.</p> + +<p>Six of our household went out today to get wood +with the old horse and sled, but the poor creature +would not go, probably because it could not. They +had to unload a good many times and were gone +five hours. Alma and Ricka went with the four +boys for an outing, but all came home tired and +voting the horse a great failure.</p> + +<p>This morning our house was astir very early, +and the men were getting ready to "mush on" +towards the Koyuk. Mr. L. goes with the Marshal, +the clerk, and two others, taking seven dogs +and sleds loaded with provisions. It is a sight to +see the preparations. There are sacks of frozen +tom-cod for the dogs, tents, Yukon stoves, tin +dishes, snow shoes, sleeping bags and robes, coffee +pots, axes, picks, gold pans and boxes, cans and +bags of grub, ad infinitum.</p> + +<p>G. and B. stay behind to make another camp<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span> +stove but will leave soon for Nome. B. cleaned his +gun today, and looked after his ammunition.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="i293" id="i293"></a> +<a href="images/293.jpg"><img src="images/293t.jpg" width="400" height="254" alt="" title="" /></a> +AT CHINIK. THE MISSION.</div> + + + +<p>Wednesday, December twelfth: Our sunset was +very lovely today at one in the afternoon, and at +three o'clock, when I began with little Jennie's lessons, +we had to light the lamp. I usually go into +the sewing-room for a little while either before or +after the lesson to watch the women sew furs.</p> + +<p>Alice, the younger, is as quiet as a mouse, but +the captain's wife is a little more talkative, though +not particularly given to conversation. Now and +then, while she sews, something is said with which +she does not agree, and she bites her thread off +with a snap, with some terse remark offsetting the +other, or with a bit of cynicism, which, with a quick +glance of her black eyes and curl of the lip, is well +calculated to settle forever the offender; for the +captain's wife is as keen as a briar, and reads human +nature quickly. I should say she is gifted +with wonderful intuitive powers, and these have +been sharpened by her constant effort to understand +the words and lives of those around her, +these being to such an extent English speaking +people, while she is an Eskimo. Let none flatter +themselves that they can deceive Mollie, for they +would better abandon that idea before they begin. +She impresses me as a thoroughly good and honest +woman, and I am getting to respect her greatly.</p> + +<p>Two of the boys from the Home spent the night +in the Mission, and helped with sawing wood all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span> +forenoon today. They went from Nome to assist +at building the Home, and came over here for the +first time yesterday. They are jolly fellows, and +used often to assist us in the "Star" at Nome, +one always lightening our load of work by his +cheery voice and pleasant, hopeful smile. He, too, +is a sweet singer, and a great favorite with all. +After a lunch they started to mush back to the +Home over the ice, promising to come again at +Christmas. B. and G. finally got started on their +long, cold trip to Nome on business.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XX" id="CHAPTER_XX"></a>CHAPTER XX.</h2> + +<h3>CHRISTMAS IN ALASKA.</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/dt.png" width="56" height="150" alt="T" title="T" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">HURSDAY, December thirteenth: +The old Eskimo whom I call "grandpa" +came from the Home with one of +Mr. H.'s assistants for a load of supplies +for the place, and arrived in time +for breakfast at half-past nine. They +loaded up the sleds, took hot coffee, +and started back at eleven in the morning. +Mr. M. came back alone before +noon, having given up his trip to the +Koyuk because his shoulder hurts him. The old +horse had finally to be killed, and Mr. M. decided +that he did not want to take his place at hauling, +so turned back after selling part of his supplies to +the others. The weather is fine indeed. A little +snow is falling this afternoon, but there was a beautiful +sky at sunrise and sunset, the latter at half-past +one o'clock.</p> + +<p>While giving Jennie her lesson today I was introduced +for the first time to little Charlie, who spends +a good deal of time with Jennie. He is four years +old, and a bright and beautiful child. His papa is +an Englishman, and his Eskimo mother is dead. +After the lesson I read stories to the two children, +holding the little boy upon my lap, while Jennie sat<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span> +beside us in the lamplight, her big black eyes shining +like stars. She wore a brown serge dress, +trimmed with narrow red trimming, her hair neatly +braided in two braids down her back, and tied with +red ribbons. Both children wore little reindeer +muckluks on their feet, the boy being dressed in +flannel blouse waist and knee pants. They are a +very pretty pair of children.</p> + +<p>Such a charming, soft-tinted, red, purple and blue +sky today, stretching along in bars above the snow-topped +mountains. It makes one glad to be here, +and feel full of pity for those who cannot enjoy it +with us. It is good to enjoy everything possible +as one goes along, for nobody knows how long +anything will hold out and what will come next. +At noon two hungry Eskimo children came, dirty, +forlorn and cold, and we fed them.</p> + +<p>Mr. H. came again toward evening with reindeer +to get a load of supplies, and the girls and M. went +fishing. They had great sport, all dressed in fur, +with short fish poles, hooks, bait and gunny sack +for the game, coming in frosty and rosy after dark, +and calling for hot coffee.</p> + +<p>I am quite interested in getting the fox skins for +my coat. I have paid the Eskimo girl five dollars +for tanning my fur skins, and hope to have a warm +coat. My first three skins cost me twelve dollars, +the next two ten dollars, and now five dollars for +tanning, but I have a lining, and Mollie will make +it for me next week.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span></p> + +<p>After supper we had a caller who has been here +once before with others. He is a finely trained +baritone singer, and comes from one of the Southern +States. He sang and played entertainingly on +the organ for an hour, while we sewed and knitted +as we do each evening.</p> + +<p>Saturday, December fifteenth: Eight weeks today +since we landed at Golovin Bay. Weather +good, skies beautiful, but days are short. Sunset +at half-past one in the afternoon; sunrise about ten +in the morning.</p> + +<p>The Commissioner came with legal documents +and customary jokes, and I try to get the copying +done in between times. He is going to Nome for +Christmas, and wants the papers all finished before +he leaves. He is considered a very "rapid" young +man, and looks like it.</p> + +<p>Sunday, December sixteenth: We had breakfast +today at sunrise (ten in the morning) and I +went for a walk alone upon the ice in a southerly +direction, where the natives were fishing. There +was a good trail which has been made by a horse-team +hauling wood from the other shore, and the +air was fine, so that I enjoyed it very much, though +my hood was soon frosty around my face. For a +while I watched the natives haul tom-cod up +through the ice holes, but having no place to sit +except upon the ice, as they did, I returned after +having been gone two hours, and was soon dressed +for dinner in Sunday suit.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span></p> + +<p>After dinner Mr. H. arrived with the teacher to +hold an evening service in the kitchen, the latter +taking Ricka and Mary with her to call upon some +native families, two of whose members were sick. +When they returned Ricka was full of laughter at +the way they had entered the native igloos, especially +Mary, who is a large woman and could +barely squeeze in through the small opening called +by courtesy a door. Ricka says it was more like +crawling through a hole than anything else, and at +one time Mary was so tightly jammed in that she +wondered seriously how she was ever to get out.</p> + +<p>"Ugh!" said Ricka, when Mary related the incident, +"that was not the worst of it. I wanted to +keep the good dinner I had eaten, but the smell of +the igloo almost made me lose it then and there, +and as I was inside already, and Mary stuck fast +in the door so I could not get out, we were both +in a bad plight. When I tried to help her she +would not let me, but only laughed at me."</p> + +<p>"Next time we will send Mrs. Sullivan," said +Alma, laughing.</p> + +<p>"And you go along with me," said I, knowing +that I could stand as long as Alma the smell of +the Eskimo huts and their seal oil. So that was +settled, Miss J., I presume, thinking us all very +foolish to make so much fuss over a little thing like +that in Alaska.</p> + +<p>This evening, when the kitchen was filled with +natives, their service had begun, and while some of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span> +us sat in the sitting-room to leave more chairs for +the others, there came a knock at the door, and in +walked the Commissioner and the young baritone +singer, who was persuaded to sing a few solos after +the meeting was through in the kitchen.</p> + +<p>Monday, December seventeenth: Mollie is cutting +my fur coat for me, but says I must have one +or two more skins to make it large enough. She +says she is too busy to study before Christmas, but +will afterwards. The Commissioner brought more +copying for me to do, and told me I could have the +money for my work at any time. Some tell me he +never pays anything he owes, and that I must look +sharp or I will not get anything. The other Commissioner +has invited me to go to a New Year's +party at Council, fifty miles away, saying he will +take me there and back behind his best dogs, but I +refused, telling him that I never dance, and that I +am a married woman. At that he laughed, said he +was also married, with a wife in the States, but that +does not debar him from having a good time.</p> + +<p>Word comes of a new gold strike not far away, +but I think we are not really sure that it is bona +fide, and must not put too much dependence on +what we hear. The Commissioner comes with his +copying, and is full of jokes.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, December nineteenth: A man came +from the Home yesterday who has persuaded M. to +go with him on a short staking expedition. They +think they know of a new "find" very near home,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span> +and I ran over to the Recorder's to get two attorney +papers made out for them to take as they say +they will stake for the girls and me. The Commissioner +paid me twenty dollars on copying, and +said he would settle the remainder when he got +back from Nome, as he and the other Commissioner +were just setting out with a dog-team for +that place. I have had to buy another fox skin for +my coat, making twenty-seven dollars paid out on +the garment thus far.</p> + +<p>Right sorry I was today that Mr. H. carried +away the big velvet couch yesterday that I have +slept on nights since coming here, and I tried last +night the wooden settle brought down from upstairs +to the sitting-room. I found it a most uncomfortable +thing to sleep on, as my feet hung at +least six inches over the end of the lounge, and +they were icy when I wakened in the morning. I +then decided to go upstairs to one of the canvas +bunks in the northeast room, and I find it much +better every way. The bunk is long, wide and +warm enough with a reindeer skin under me, and +all my blankets and comforters over me, while I +have the room alone, temporarily, at least.</p> + +<p>Saturday, December twenty-second: This is the +middle shortest day of winter, and a fine one, too, +though we had not more than three and a half +hours daylight. The skies are beautiful, with many +bright colors blended in a most wonderful way.</p> + +<p>The girls are hard at work cooking for Christmas,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span> +and while the boys were all away today and +we needed wood brought into the house, I rigged +myself in rag-time costume and fetched several +loads in my arms. How the girls laughed when +they saw me, and declared they would fetch the +kodak, but I ran away again.</p> + +<p>This afternoon M. and the other man returned +from their little trip, looking bright and happy +over having staked some claims for themselves and +us not very far away. These are our first claims +staked, and we naturally feel more than usually set +up, though the men say of course there may be +nothing of value in them.</p> + +<p>When I went to give Jennie her lesson I heard +her father and another man talking of a party of +five persons who have been taken out to sea on the +ice, near Topkok. They started about three days +ago from here, and one was the sick woman who +has been at the hotel, all on their way to Nome by +dog-team.</p> + +<p>There were two women and three men, two dog-teams +and sleds. They were crossing the ice between +two points of land while upon the winter trail +to Nome, the wind had loosened the ice, and when +they tried to get upon shore again they found it +impossible, and they were blown directly out to +sea. Without food or shelter, and with the nights +as cold as they are, how can they live on the ice +at sea? Some men have arrived bringing the news, +and say that two men went out in a boat to their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span> +rescue, but broke their oars, the ice closed in on +them, they were soaked through, and were obliged +to use their best efforts to save themselves.</p> + +<p>The following night was very cold, and all think +the unfortunates must have perished. What a terrible +fate, and one that may happen to any one traveling +in this country, though it does seem as if this +ice should soon freeze solidly.</p> + +<p>Sunday, December twenty-third: Soon after +breakfast today a man came to our door asking +for iodine, or remedies for a dog bite. A mad dog +had rushed upon a man sleeping in a tent in the +night and bitten him quite severely upon the hands +and leg. Mary and I put on our furs immediately +and started out with the man, who piloted us into a +small saloon, where the poor fellow sat by the stove +with a white and pinched face.</p> + +<p>Several other men were standing about, after +having done all they could for the injured man, but +Mary washed the torn flesh in strong carbolic acid +water, and tied it up in sterilized bandages, for +which he seemed very thankful.</p> + +<p>The little saloon was neat and clean, containing +a big stove, six or eight bunks across the back end, +and a long table, upon which were spread tin +plates, cups and spoons. A short bar ran along +one side by the door. The men said that the mad +dog had been shot immediately after the accident, +but there were others around in the camp, they +feared.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span></p> + +<p>I could easily see that the injured man was badly +frightened as to the after-effects of the dog bite, and +both Mary and I did all in our power to suggest +away his fear, knowing well that this was as harmful +as the injury. I told him that the missionary, +Mr. H., had had a great deal of experience with +such accidents, but never yet had seen a person +thus bitten suffer from hydrophobia, which appeared +to comfort him greatly.</p> + +<p>When we left the place he seemed more cheerful, +though still very pale, and Mary promised to come +again to see him. He belongs to a party of three +men bound for Koyuk River. The young man who +sings so well sometimes at the Mission is one of the +three, but the other I have not yet seen.</p> + +<p>Later on Mary and I called upon Alice, the Eskimo +girl, who lives with her mother, near the hotel, +and who is suffering with quinsy. I found Jennie +and Charlie there, and took them out for a walk +down on the beach, where the little girl's aunt was +cutting ice. As we passed the A. E. Store I noticed +a dog lying on the porch having a bloody mouth, +but as he lay quietly I did not think much about it. +After we had passed down the trail for a block or +so, I heard a commotion behind us, and looking +back saw a young man rush out into the trail and +shoot a dog, the one, as I afterwards learned, that +I had seen on the porch. It had been mad, and +snapping around all day, but the men could not find +it earlier, and the two little children and I had<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span> +passed within a few feet of it without being conscious +of danger.</p> + +<p>Mr. H. came in to supper, also two others from +the camp of the shipwrecked people, thirty miles +away to the east of us. At supper one of the men +offered to stake some claims for us over near their +camp, where they think there is gold. They took +our names on paper, and said that after prospecting, +if they found gold, they would let us into the +strike before any others. They will remain over +night, and leave early in the morning. Mr. H. and +Mary called after supper to see the man who was +bitten by the mad dog, and found him looking better, +and not so worried as this morning. His friend +was playing on the banjo, and all were sitting quietly +around the fire.</p> + +<p>Monday, December twenty-fourth: The two +boys, G. and B., came in late last evening, tired +and hungry, from the Nome trail, glad to arrive at +home in time for Christmas.</p> + +<p>Early this morning Mary dressed herself up +hideously as Santa Claus, bringing a big box of +presents in while we sat at the breakfast table and +distributing them. Of course there were the regulation +number of fake packages, containing funny +things for the boys, but each one had a present of +something, and I had a souvenir spoon just from +Nome, an ivory paper knife of Eskimo make from +the girls, and later a white silk handkerchief.</p> + +<p>Going into the sitting-room after breakfast, we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span> +were met by the fumes of burnt cork, hair or cotton, +and upon inquiry were told that Santa Claus +had had a little mishap; his whiskers had been +singed by coming into contact with the lamp chimney +and that it had delayed matters somewhat until +Ricka, his assistant, could find more cotton on the +medicine shelves; but the end of all was hearty +laughter and a jolly good time; an effort to forget, +for the present, the day in our own homes thousands +of miles away.</p> + +<p>This morning, before noon, all in the Mission +went to the Home to the Christmas tree and exercises, +leaving me alone to keep house, the first time +this has happened in Alaska. Mr. H. had left the +dog-teams, two reindeer, and three sleds, with +which they were to drive over, and a merry party +they were. When they had gone I worked for some +time at getting the rooms in order, and making all +as tidy and snug as possible, but I had no holly +berries nor greens with which to decorate. All was +snowy and white out of doors, and a cheerful fire +inside was most to be desired. In the afternoon I +gave Jennie her lesson as usual. I am invited to +eat Christmas dinner tomorrow with Mollie, the +captain and little Jennie, and shall accept. A good +many in camp have been invited, I understand, and +I am wondering what kind of a gathering it will be.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, December twenty-fifth: Christmas Day, +and I was alone in the Mission all night, so I had +to build my own fires this morning. I did not get<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span> +up until ten o'clock, as it was cold and dark, and I +had nothing especial to do. There is plenty of +wood and water, and everything in the house, so I +do not have to go out of doors for anything.</p> + +<p>By noon I had finished my work, put on my best +dress, and sat down at the organ to play. I went +over all the church music and voluntaries I could +find at hand, read a number of psalms aloud, and +as far as possible for one person I went through +my Christmas exercises.</p> + +<p>If a certain longing for things and people far +away came near possessing me, I would not allow +it to make me miserable, for longing is not necessarily +unhappiness, and I had set my mind like a +flint against being dissatisfied with my present +state. With what knowledge I possess of the laws +of auto-suggestion, I have so far since my arrival +in Alaska managed the ego within most successfully, +and tears and discontent are not encouraged +nor allowed.</p> + +<p>We are creatures of voluntary habits, as well as +involuntary ones, and habitual discontent and discouragement, +gnawing at one's vitals are truly +death-dealing. The study of human nature is, in +Alaska, particularly interesting in these directions, +to the one with his mind's eye open to such things, +and I am resolved, come what will, that I will keep +the upper hand of my spirit, that it shall do as I direct, +and not harbor "blues" nor discouragement.</p> + +<p>About two in the afternoon in came M. and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span> +one of the visiting Swedes, after having walked +from the Home, where they had attended the +Christmas party, and they were well covered with +icicles. I prepared a hot lunch for them, and ate +something myself. Later a native was sent by +Mollie to fetch me over to the hotel to dinner, it +being dark, and as I was already dressed for the +occasion, I went with him.</p> + +<p>When I arrived at the dining-room they were +just seated at table, and the waiters were bringing +in the first course. Twenty-five persons sat at the +Christmas board, at one end of which sat the captain +as host with his wife and little Jennie at his +left. At his right sat the young musician, who had +entertained us at the Mission several times with +his singing, and the storekeeper, but with a place +between them reserved for me.</p> + +<p>After a quiet Christmas greeting to those around +me, I took my seat, and the dinner was then served. +A bottle of wine was ordered by the host for me, +and brought by the waiter, who placed it with a +glass beside my plate. At each plate there had already +been placed the same accompaniments to the +dinner, with which great care had been taken by +the two French cooks in the kitchen, and upon +which no expense had been spared by the captain, +who was host. While the waiters were serving the +courses, and conversation around the table near me +became quite general, on the aside I studied the +company. It was cosmopolitan to the last degree.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span> +Opposite me sat the hostess (Mollie) with her little +Jennie, dressed in their very best, the woman wearing +a fashionable trained skirt, pink silk waist and +diamond brooch, while the little child wore light +tan cloth in city fashion, and looked very pretty. +Below them sat the regular boarders at the hotel, +hotel clerk, the bartender, miners, traders and the +woman who kept the saloon. The latter appeared +about thirty years of age, dark, petite and pretty, +richly and becomingly gowned in garments which +might have come along with her native tongue +from Paris. On our side of the long table, and +opposite this woman, sat the only other white woman +besides myself present, and she, with her husband, +the two neighbors who had given us our first +sleigh ride behind the grey horse. On this side sat +more miners and the few travelers who happened +to be at the hotel at this time. The clerk, next his +employer, who sat at my right, and the musician +on my left, completed the number of guests, with +the exception of the one at the farther end of the +board, opposite the host. This was a young man +in a heavy fur coat, his head drooping low over his +plate.</p> + +<p>"Don't let H. fall upon the floor, boys," said the +captain, as he saw the pitiable plight of the young +man. "Poor fellow, he has been celebrating Christmas +with a vengeance, and it was too much for +him, evidently. It don't take much to knock him +out, though, and this wine," taking up his wine<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span> +glass and looking through the liquid it contained, +"won't hurt a baby."</p> + +<p>"Do you never take wine?" politely inquired the +musician of me, as he noticed that my wine glass +remained untouched, and a glass of cold water was +my only beverage.</p> + +<p>"I never do," said I firmly, but with a smile, as +I noticed that both he and the gentleman at my +right barely touched theirs, while others drank +freely.</p> + +<p>"Waiter, bring Mellie another bottle of that +wine," called the bartender, from the other side of +the table, "those bottles don't hold nothin' anyway, +and a woman who can't empty more'n one of +'em ain't much," and a second bottle was handed +the female dispenser of grog, a connoisseur of long +standing, and one who could "stand up" under as +much as the next person. By this time the woman +opposite her was considerably along the road to +hilarity, and shouts and laughter came from both, +called forth by the jests of their companions alongside.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile the dinner progressed. The turkey +was bona fide bird, and not a few gull's bones from +a tin quart can, while the cake and ice cream with +which my meal was ended, were all that could be +desired in Alaska. All voted that the cooks had +"done themselves proud," and no one could say +that Christmas dinners could not be served in +Chinik.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span></p> + +<p>Before rising from the table, at the close of the +meal, toasts to the host and hostess were drunk +by those at the bottles, and Christmas presents +were distributed to many, principally to members +of the family and from boarders of the house. There +were silk handkerchiefs, red neckties, "boiled +shirts," and mittens, and in some instances moosehide +gloves and moccasins, made by the Eskimo +hostess herself, while "Mellie" came in for a share, +including a large black bottle of "choice Burgundy."</p> + +<p>Upon leaving the dining table, the company separated, +most of the men going into the bar-room +and store, while the family and invited guests repaired +to the living-room. Here a good-sized +Christmas tree had been arranged for Jennie and +Charlie, and their presents were displayed and +talked over. In the meantime, the long dining table +was cleared and spread again for the Eskimos, who +soon flocked into the room in numbers.</p> + +<p>Some one proposed that we go to the Mission +and have some songs by the musician, to which all +assented, and nine of us, including the captain, his +wife and Jennie, started over about half-past eight +o'clock. There we found the rooms bright and +warm, the two men keeping house in my absence +having escaped to the upper rooms on hearing the +party approaching. Here a pleasant hour or two +were passed in listening to the songs of the musician, +who always accompanies himself on his instrument,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span> +whether banjo or organ. He sang the +"Lost Chord," "Old Kentucky Home," and many +other dear old songs, closing with "God Be With +You Till We Meet Again," and the doxology. After +that they pulled on their parkies and fur coats and +went out into the snow storm (for by this time the +snow was falling heavily), and to their homes, +while I sat down alone in the firelight to review +the events of the day—my first Christmas Day in +Alaska. How different from any other I have ever +spent. What a disclosure of the shady side of human +nature this is,—and yet there is some good +intermingled with it all.</p> + +<p>Many here cannot endure the stress of the current, +nor pull against it, and so float easily on +towards the rapids and destruction. Here is a field +for the Christian worker, though Mr. H. says he +moved his little flock twelve miles across the bay +in order to get it farther away from this iniquitous +camp.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXI" id="CHAPTER_XXI"></a>CHAPTER XXI.</h2> + +<h3>MY FIRST GOLD CLAIMS.</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/dc.png" width="56" height="150" alt="C" title="C" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">HRISTMAS is over for another year, +and this is December twenty-sixth +with its daily winter routine. After I +had given the two men their breakfast, +I went out for a walk upon the +beach. A few snowflakes fell upon my +face as I walked, and it was not cold +but pleasant. There was a red and +glowing, eastern sky, but no sunshine, +and I looked out over the ice to see if +possibly the girls were returning. Seeing nothing +of them, I went home again. About two o'clock +M. came in, saying that they could be seen far out +upon the ice, and we must build the fires and get +dinner started, which we then did. Soon Alma +came riding on a reindeer sled, with a native driver, +getting in ahead of the others, who arrived half an +hour later.</p> + +<p>Mr. H. has come with two of his assistants and +Miss E. by reindeer team from the Home on their +way to the station, where the animals are herded in +the hills, and all had a good lunch. After spending +two hours in packing, talking and resting, they left +again, Miss E. on a sled behind a reindeer, which +was driven by a native, and which tore up the snow<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span> +in clouds as he dashed over the ice northward to +the hills. I ran out upon the cliff to see them on +their way, being quite contented that it was not +myself.</p> + +<p>I have learned that the five persons who drifted +out to sea on the ice were brought back by the +wind and tide, and escaped safely to land, after being +at sea several days, but were unharmed, and +went on to Nome. I was very glad to hear this, +as they have had a narrow escape from death.</p> + +<p>Friday, December twenty-eighth: The musician +and his friend who was bitten by the mad dog +called this forenoon at the Mission to get the man's +wounds dressed by Mary, the nurse. His hands +are much better, but the wounded leg may yet give +him trouble. Mary did her best for the man, who +seems to be growing more cheerful, and we do all +possible to encourage and help him, lending him +reading matter of various kinds with which to pass +his time. A good many are going to the New +Year's party at Council, among them the captain +and his wife, and the musician; but I shall not go, +though both commissioners have urged me to accept +their invitations, and did not enjoy overmuch +my refusals. I was playing ball with Jennie and +Charlie before our lessons today when the party +started out with the dog-teams, for the nights are +very moonlight and clear, and they can travel for +many hours. A cousin of Mollie's, by name Ageetuk, +went with her. Jennie is to stay with her<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span> +auntie until her mamma's return, and I will give her +the afternoon lessons just the same, only at her +auntie's house. When the lesson was finished I led +Charlie to Ageetuk's house, where her mother cares +for him in the night time, and left Jennie with her +auntie, Apuk. This woman has a neat little cabin +of three small rooms, furnished in comfortable +fashion, with a pretty Brussels rug covering the +floor of her best room, in which is a white iron +bedstead, a good small table with a pretty cover, +a large lamp, white dimity curtains at the windows +over the shades, and in the next room there are +white dishes upon the shelves.</p> + +<p>Sunday, December thirtieth: It is ten weeks yesterday +since we arrived at Golovin, or Chinik, as +is the Eskimo name for the settlement, and pronounced +Cheenik, a creek of the same name flowing +into the bay a mile east of this camp. During +the day I went to look after Jennie and brought +the child home with me, giving her candy and nuts, +and playing for her on the organ.</p> + +<p>This evening we all went out upon the ice for a +walk. We took the trail to White Mountain, going +in a northwesterly direction, and enjoyed it very +much. We passed the cliff, and the boats, the snow +creaking at every step, and the moonlight clear +and beautiful. We were out for two hours, and felt +better for the fresh air and exercise. All old timers +say that it is bad for one's health to remain indoors +too much in Alaska, and people should get<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span> +out every day for exercise. There is far more danger +of getting scurvy by remaining in the house +too much than from any kinds of food we have to +eat, and none of us wish to be ill with that troublesome +disease.</p> + +<p>About five o'clock Miss E. came in with a native +from the station where the reindeer are kept, having +grown tired of staying in a native hut with the +Eskimo women while the missionary was busy at +work. She started early this morning when the +weather was fine. Lincoln, the experienced native +who came with her, knew the way perfectly, and +they expected to make the twelve or fifteen miles +and get into the Mission early, but the weather +suddenly changed, as it knows so well how to do +in this country, the wind blew, snow fell and drifted +and though they came safely through the hills, they +lost their way upon the bay while crossing to +Chinik, and wandered for hours in the snow storm.</p> + +<p>Having no lunch, tent, nor compass, and no +extra furs, they found themselves in a disagreeable +plight, especially as the snow was very soft and +wet. They kept on traveling, however, until they +were satisfied that they were going in circles, as do +all when lost in a snow storm, and were making no +progress; then they halted.</p> + +<p>Here they were overtaken by two white men, +lost like themselves, who, when the matter had +been talked over, would not follow the native, +thinking they knew better than he the way to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span> +Chinik, and they went off by themselves. Miss E. +says that both she and Lincoln had given up hope +of getting here today, but she knelt upon the ice +and prayed that they might find their way safely, +then trusted that they would do so, and started. +After going on for a time in the storm, they saw a +small, deserted cabin not far from them which Lincoln +instantly recognized as one upon the point of +land only a quarter of a mile west of Chinik, and +they were happy.</p> + +<p>They soon came into the Mission, full of gratitude, +though wet, tired and hungry, for it is so +warm that there is water on the ice in places, and +the snow is very heavy. They had only one deer +with them.</p> + +<p>The two lost men came into camp an hour after +Miss E. arrived, having gone past the cabin and +camp, and southward too far in their reckoning. It +is never safe to travel without a compass of some +sort in this country. Mr. H. and his two men have, +besides attending to the herd, staked some gold +claims while away, not far from our claims. The +wind has died down, and there is no snow falling +tonight at half-past eight.</p> + +<p>This is New Year's Eve, and the girls and boys +are singing, and having a good time in the sitting-room +while I write. We are going to sit up to +watch the old year out and the new year in, and +have a little song service at midnight.</p> + +<p>This is the last day of nineteen hundred, and a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span> +memorable year it has been. How many new +scenes and how great the changes through which +we have passed! What will the New Year bring? +Where will we be next year at this time? It is +probably better that we do not know the future.</p> + +<p>New Year's Day, nineteen hundred and one. +This has been a good day all around, after our midnight +watch meeting, when seven of the eight persons +present took a part, and we sang many songs +with the organ. At half-past twelve I retired, but +the others remained up until two o'clock.</p> + +<p>This evening the storekeeper and two others +from White Mountain called to see if we did not +care to go out coasting on the hill behind the Mission, +and five or six of us went. When we got to +the top of the hill the wind was so strong that I +could hardly stand, and after a few trips down the +Hill we gave it up, part of our number going out to +walk upon the ice, and the rest of us going indoors. +The men were invited into the Mission, +and stayed for an hour, chatting pleasantly, as +there is no place for them to go except to the saloons. +It is a great pity that there is no reading +room with papers and books for the miners, with +the long winter before them, and nothing to do. +There is a crying need for something in this line, +and if they do not employ their time pleasantly and +profitably, they will spend it unprofitably in some +saloon or gambling place. I wish I had a thousand +good magazines to scatter, but I have none.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span></p> + +<p>I gave Jennie her lesson, and amused both children +for a time this afternoon. Yesterday the snow +drifted badly, and I fear the people who went to +Council will not have a good trail on the way +home.</p> + +<p>January second: It is pleasant to have a corner +by myself in which to write and be sometimes +alone. The little northeast corner room where I +sleep has a tile pipe coming up from the kitchen, +making the room warm enough except in the coldest +weather. It has a north window with no double +one outside, and when the wind comes from the +north I expect it will be extremely cold. From this +window I can see (when the glass is free from frost) +out upon the trail to Nome and White Mountain. +Today there is water on the ice, and it has been +raining and blowing. Three of the boys returned +from a four days' prospecting trip to the west, and +as two of them had been sick the whole time since +they left here, they came in wet, tired and hungry, +without having much good luck to relate. I told +them it was something to get back at all again, +and they agreed heartily, while eating a hot supper. +An hour later and Mr. H. with the visiting preacher +came in from the reindeer station, and their staking +trip, in the same condition as the three boys had +been; so a supper for them was also prepared.</p> + +<p>Our kitchen looks like a junk shop these days, +and a wet one at that, for the numbers of muckluks, +fur parkies, mittens, and other garments hung<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span> +around the stove to dry are almost past counting, +and the odor is stifling; but the clothing must be +dried somewhere, and there is no other place. An +engine room would be the very best spot I know +for drying so many wet furs, and I wish we had +one here.</p> + +<p>In speaking to one of the men today about prospecting +my claim, I told him I would furnish the +grub, but he said very kindly, "I wouldn't take any +grub from you. I've got enough, and shall be at +work there any way, so it won't take long to sink +some holes in your claim," which I thought was +very good of him. I hope they will "strike it" +rich.</p> + +<p>January third: A wet, sloppy, snowy day, our +"January thaw," Mr. H. says. I took the two children +out on the sled upon the ice and pushed at the +handle-bars until I was reeking with perspiration, +afterwards giving Jennie her lesson at her auntie's.</p> + +<p>There are twelve of us under the Mission roof +tonight, including Miss E. and the native.</p> + +<p>January fourth: These are great days. We have +a houseful of men, nine in all, and some are getting +ready to leave tomorrow to do some staking of +claims up near the station. M. said if the musician +were only here, and they could get a dog-team, he +would like to get him to go with him on a staking +trip not far away. This man returned soon afterward, +and M. wanted me to ask him if he would go. +I did so, and he replied that he would go, and furnish<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span> +dogs if possible; but the ones he tried to get +were engaged, and that plan fell through, much to +his discouragement. Learning this, I determined +to go to the captain at the hotel, and see if I could +procure dogs from him for the trip. He said yes, +I could have his best dogs, and that a mail carrier +is here resting who will lend us his dogs, so that +was all arranged.</p> + +<p>Location papers then had to be written out, grub +boxes packed, a tent looked up, and many things +attended to before they left, so that others in camp +got an inkling of what was being done and wanted +to go along. Then M. and the musician decided to +put off going until midnight, when they would +sneak quietly out of camp with their dogs and +scamper away among the hills without the others +knowing it, but it could not be done, and two or +three sleds followed them at midnight in the moonlight, +as is the custom with Alaska "stampeders."</p> + +<p>January fifth: Mollie asked me today to go with +her to visit her fox traps, and I immediately decided +to go. We started about half-past one in the +afternoon, on foot past the cliff, but when we had +gone a short distance Mollie stopped to call back +to the house. Some native boys were cutting wood +at the north door, and she motioned one to come +to her. When he came, she spoke to him in Eskimo, +and he, assenting to what she said, ran back +again.</p> + +<p>"I tell Muky to come with dog-team, bring us<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</a></span> +home, you get tired by and by," she said thoughtfully, +as we trudged on again over and through the +snow. The woman wore a reindeer parkie, short +skirt, and muckluks, and carried a gun on her +shoulder. The snow was quite a foot deep, with +a crust on top which we broke at almost every +step, and which made it hard walking. On we +"mushed," past the cliff, the boats, and out upon +the ice. The traps had been set by Mollie a week +before on the northeast shore of the bay among +a few low bushes, and this was our objective point. +When we reached the first trap, which was buried +in snow, but found by a certain shrub which Mollie +had in some way marked and now recognized, I +threw myself upon the snow to rest and watch her +movements.</p> + +<p>Around us we saw plenty of ptarmigan tracks, +but no signs of foxes. A foot below the snow's +surface, Mollie found her trap, and proceeded to +reset it. Carefully covering the trap with a very +little light snow and smoothing it nicely over, she +chipped off bits of reindeer meat from a scrap she +had brought with her, scattering them invitingly +around.</p> + +<p>The scene about us was a very quiet one and +wintry in the extreme. Long, low hills stretched +out on every side of the bay, and the whole earth +was a great snow heap. The sky and cloud effects +were charming, fading sunshine on the hilltops +making them softly pink, and very lovely; but with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></span> +deep reddish purple tints over all as the sun-ball +disappeared.</p> + +<p>One after another, four fox traps in different +places were reset by Mollie, while I mushed on +behind her.</p> + +<p>At last we saw the dog-team and Muky coming +on the bay. Five dogs he had hitched to his sled, +and each wore a tiny bell at its throat, making a +pretty din as they trotted. When the woman had +finished her trapping, we both climbed into the +sled, the native running and calling to the dogs, +and they started for home. It was not a long ride, +probably not more than a mile and a half as we +went, but while tramping through the snow crust +to the traps it seemed much longer.</p> + +<p>I now thoroughly enjoyed the novel ride. In the +dusky twilight the dogs trotted cheerfully homeward, +obeying the musical calls of their driver, and +the little bells jingled merrily. Darker and more +purple grew the skies until they tinted the snow +over which we were passing, and by the time we +had halted before the hotel door it was really night.</p> + +<p>By the clock it was fifteen minutes past four and +the thermometer registered fifteen degrees below +zero. Then we toasted our feet before the big +heater, removed and shook out our frosty furs, and +answered the two children's questions. To these +Mollie gave her explanations in Eskimo, and I told +of the ptarmigan tracks I had seen on the snow +drifts.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</a></span></p> + +<p>Sunday, January sixth: Yesterday I moved into +the little southeast room which was formerly Miss +J.'s. It has pretty paper on the walls, and a small +heater in one corner, besides a single cot, and I +soon settled quite comfortably. The room with +the bunks was needed for the men, of whom there +are so many most of the time. The room I now +have has a south window, but not a double one, and +gets heavy with frost, which remains on the panes; +but I can have a fire when I want one, as the stove +burns chips and short wood, of which there are +always quantities in the shed. B. tells me to use +all the wood I want, as there is no shortage of fuel, +nor men to haul and cut it, which I think is very +kind. A little fire while I am dressing nights and +mornings, however, is all I shall try to keep +burning.</p> + +<p>Miss J. came with Ivan, bringing several native +children to visit their parents for a few hours, but +took them back with her after supper when the +meeting was over, which she had held in the +kitchen. We had sixteen to supper, including natives. +Afterward we went down to the beach to +see the party off for the Home. Ivan led the dogs, +five in number, hitched to the big sled. Miss J. +ran alongside, the visiting preacher at the handle +bar, and the little children on the sled. After watching +them off, we came home and then took a walk +of a mile out upon the ice on the White Mountain +trail, which was in fairly good condition. There<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</a></span> +were six of us. When we got back to the house, +I played by request on the organ, for the three +Swedish visitors from Council.</p> + +<p>The weather is bright and beautiful, and sixteen +degrees below zero.</p> + +<p>Monday, January seventh: The boys came in +from their stampede to the creeks, and M. says +they staked us all rich if there is anything good in +the ground. My claim is Number Ten, below Discovery, +on H. Creek, and sounds well, if nothing +more. Of course we women are all much elated, +and talk of "our claims" very glibly, but a few +sunken prospect holes will tell the story of success +or failure better than anything else.</p> + +<p>This has been a busy day in the house until I +went at half-past two in the afternoon to Mollie's +to find her ill in bed with a very bad throat. I gave +Jennie and Charlie two hours of my time, and went +home, to return in the evening at Mollie's request. +The poor woman was suffering severely, and I did +what I could for her, rubbing her throat with camphorated +oil and turpentine and wrapping it in +thick, hot flannels. Then I assisted her to bed, +rubbing her aching bones, and left her less feverish +than when I went in. The thermometer is above +zero, and the weather is pleasant.</p> + +<p>Two men from Topkok came in to see the Recorder's +books, and searched all through them +without finding what they wanted and expected to +find, and then went away with sober and disappointed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</a></span> +faces. "Curses not loud but deep" come +to our ears each day about the Commissioner's +work of recording, and many say he is now deep +in dissipation at Nome, instead of attending here +to his business as he should. Miners declare him +unfitted in every way for his position, and affirm +that they will depose him from office.</p> + +<p>I went out this morning and bought a student +lamp at the store, paying six dollars and a half +for it. This, with my case of coal oil, will light +my room nicely, besides giving a good deal of heat.</p> + +<p>The Marshal and men are home from the Koyuk +River, after four weeks of winter "mushing," and +say nothing about their trip. They did not manage +to pull harmoniously together, and Mr. L. returned +before them.</p> + +<p>January ninth: When I went today to the hotel +to teach my pupils, I found the men in the room +cleaning the big heater, and ashes and dirt drove us +out of the place, so we went upstairs to another +room in which Mollie sometimes sews, and where +we found her at work on a white parkie for the musician. +I played with Jennie for a time before the +lesson, and Ageetuk came in on an errand, while +Polly, the Eskimo servant, jabbered in a funny way +and wabbled over the floor like a duck, as is her +habit when walking. This girl is short, fat and +shapeless, with beady black eyes, and a crafty expression, +certainly not to be relied on if there is +truth in physiognomy.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</a></span></p> + +<p>At the hotel all is excitement and bustle, getting +the men off for the Kuskokquim River, where the +new strikes are reported. Strong new sleds have +been made by the natives, grub is being packed and +dogs gotten into condition, besides a thousand +other things which must be done before the expedition +is ready to start. Seeing them make such extensive +preparations reminded me that perhaps I +might get the men to carry my paper and stake +something for me, so, plucking up my courage, I +asked the promoter of the expedition, whom I +know, if I could do this, and was readily given permission. +In a few minutes paper, pen and ink were +brought in, a clerk was instructed to draw up the +paper in proper shape, which he did, and it was +signed and witnessed in due form, Mollie subscribing +her name as one of the witnesses. For this I +tendered my heartiest thanks, and ran home with a +light heart, already imagining myself a lucky claim +owner in a new and rich gold section on the Kuskokquim. +The party of five men are to leave tomorrow +morning for the long trip of several hundred +miles over the ice and snow.</p> + +<p>Mollie advises me to have another pair of muckluks +made smaller, and to keep these I am wearing +for traveling, when I will wear more inside them, +so I will take my materials over tomorrow and she +will have Alice cut and sew them for me. I hope +they will not make my feet look so clumsy as do +these, my first ones.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</a></span></p> + +<p>January tenth: This was a cold and windy morning, +so the men at the hotel could not start out for +the Kuskokquim as they intended. Some men +came to the Mission to see if they could rent the +old schoolhouse to live in, the doctor and his +plucky little wife having left some weeks ago for a +camp many miles east of Chinik. After looking it +over, the men have concluded to take it, and move +in soon. There are no buildings to buy or rent in +this camp, nor anything with which to build, so it +is hard lines for strangers coming to Chinik. This +afternoon Alma went over with me to the hotel to +stitch on Mollie's sewing machine, and I carried +the deerskin for my new footgear which Alice will +make acceptably, no doubt, as she is very expert.</p> + +<p>Mr. H., two natives and two white men, were +here to supper tonight on their way to Nome +by dog-team, and are wishing to start at three in +the morning in order to make the trip in two days. +M. and L. are also here, so we had seven men to +supper. We had fried ham, beans, stewed prunes, +tea, and bread and butter.</p> + +<p>This morning it was two degrees below zero, +with a strong, cold wind; tonight it is fourteen degrees +below zero with no wind, and is warmer now +than then. No moonlight till nearly morning, but +the stars shine brightly.</p> + +<p>January eleventh: Mary sat up all night baking +bread, and starting the men off for Nome between +three and four in the morning. I got up at nine<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</a></span> +o'clock and enjoyed the magnificent sunrise. I +went out with Ricka while she tried at the three +stores to find a lining for her fur coat, but one clerk +told us that no provision for women was made by +the companies, and they had nothing on their +shelves she wanted. At the hotel store she found +some dark green calico at twenty-five cents a yard, +which she was obliged to take for her lining.</p> + +<p>While I gave Jennie her lesson her mother came +from her hunting, and had shot six ptarmigan, having +hurt her finger on the trigger of the gun. +Mollie studies a little while each day, when Jennie +has finished her lesson.</p> + +<p>There is a sick Eskimo woman here now who +was brought in from the reindeer camp yesterday, +and Mollie has her upstairs in the sewing room on +a cot. Mary, the nurse, went over with me to see +her, and says she has rheumatic fever. She seems +to be suffering very much, and cannot move her +hands or limbs.</p> + +<p>January twelfth: At eight o'clock today the thermometer +stood at forty-one degrees below zero, +but registered thirty-two degrees during the middle +of the day, and the houses are not so warm as they +have been.</p> + +<p>When I called for Jennie at the hotel today I +found her crying with pain in her leg, so she could +not take a lesson, but I sent out for little Charlie +who came running to me with outstretched arms. +He is a dear little child, and I am getting very fond<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[Pg 309]</a></span> +of him. It is some weeks since Jennie first began +crying occasionally with pain, and her parents cannot +understand it, unless it is caused by a fall she +had on the steamer coming from San Francisco +last summer, and of which they thought nothing at +the time. I sincerely hope she is not going to be +very ill, with no doctor nearer than White Mountain. +The sick woman still suffers, though they +are doing what they can for her. The captain requested +me to bring our medical books over, or +send them, that he can look up remedies and treatment +of rheumatic fever, for that is what she no +doubt has.</p> + +<p>While seated at the organ an hour later, in came +the storekeeper and his clerk, followed soon after +by the captain and musician. Then we had music +and solos by the last named gentleman, and the +knitting needles kept rapidly flying. At eleven +o'clock they went out into the intense cold, which +sparkled like diamonds, but which pinched like nippers +the exposed faces and hands.</p> + +<p>Here is another cold, quiet day, with the thermometer +at thirty-five degrees below zero, and it +is a first class one to spend by the fire. We have +read, slept, eaten, and fed the fires; with only one +man, three girls and myself in the house. At ten +in the evening G. and B. came in from a five days +"mushing" trip on the trails, being nearly starved +and frozen. They were covered with snow and +icicles, their shirts and coats stiff with frost from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[Pg 310]</a></span> +steam of their bodies, as they ran behind the sled +to keep warm. A hot supper of chicken (canned), +coffee, and bread and butter was prepared in haste +for them, and they toasted themselves until bedtime.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[Pg 311]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXII" id="CHAPTER_XXII"></a>CHAPTER XXII.</h2> + +<h3>THE LITTLE SICK CHILD.</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/dt.png" width="56" height="150" alt="T" title="T" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">HE winter is rapidly passing, and so +far without monotony, though what it +will bring to us before spring remains +to be seen. Little Jennie has been suffering +more and more with her leg of +late, and her papa sent for the doctor +at White Mountain, who came today +by dog-team. The child's mother has +had a spring cot made for her, and +she was put to bed by the doctor, who +says the knee trouble is a very serious one, and she +must have good nursing, attention being also paid +to her diet. The Eskimos are all exceedingly fond of +seal and reindeer meat, and Jennie's Auntie Apuk +or grandmother will often bring choice tidbits to +the child at bedtime, or between meals, when she +ought not to eat anything, much less such hearty +food. When the little child sees the good things, +she, of course, wants them, and having been humored +in every whim, she must still be, she thinks, +especially when she is ill. A problem then is here +presented which I may help to solve for them. +Jennie and I are growing very fond of each other, +and she will do some things for me which she will +not do for others who have obeyed her wishes so<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[Pg 312]</a></span> +long. I begin by round-about coaxing and reasoning, +and get some other idea into her mind, until +the plate of seal meat is partially forgotten, and +does not seem so attractive at nine in the evening +as when presented with loving smiles by her old +grandmother, who does sometimes resent the alternative, +but is still exceedingly solicitous that the +little girl should recover. As grandmother understands +English imperfectly, Mollie is obliged to reiterate +the doctor's orders in Eskimo, making them +as imperative as possible, and the poor old Eskimo +woman goes home with the promise that Jennie +shall have some of the dainties at meal-time on the +morrow.</p> + +<p>In appearance grandmother is still somewhat +rugged, being a large woman, with an intelligent +face, which expresses very forcibly her inner feelings, +and being, probably, somewhere between +sixty and seventy years of age. Her husband, who +has been dead only a year or two, was much beloved +by her, and no reference to him is ever made +in her presence, without a flow of tears from her +eyes. Her love of home and kindred seems very +strong, and her devotion to little Jennie amounts +almost to idolatry, so the solicitude expressed by +the good woman is only a part of what she really +feels, but which is shown in hundreds of ways. +When the doctor settled the little girl in her bed +she adjusted a heavy weight to the foot on the +limb which has given her so much trouble, and now<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[Pg 313]</a></span> +the grief of Mollie and her mother is unbounded. +Poor old grandmother wipes her eyes continually, +leaving the house quickly at times to rush home +and mourn alone, as she is so constrained to do, +her sorrow for her darling's sufferings being very +sincere. Later she comes in after doing her best +at courage building, tiptoes her way in to see if her +pet is sleeping or awake, and bringing something if +possible, with which to amuse or interest the invalid. +However great is the grief of the women, +that of the child's papa is equally sad to see, and +he, poor man, is forced to face the probability of a +long and dreary winter, if not a lifetime of suffering +for his darling child. One cannot help seeing his +misery, though he tries like a Trojan to hide it, +and keeps as cheerful as possible to encourage +others. He is always an invalid himself.</p> + +<p>The main topic of interest to Jennie now is the +little stranger who has come to live with her Auntie +Apuk, and whom she is so desirous of seeing that +she almost forgets her trouble and suffering, asking +constantly about its size, color, eyes, hair, +hands and feet. She counts the days before she +can see it, and puzzles greatly over the fact of its +not possessing a name, her big black eyes getting +larger and blacker as she wonders where one will +be found. Little Charlie is allowed in to see Jennie +at times, and wonders greatly to find her always +in bed, asking many questions in his childish Eskimo<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</a></span> +treble, and patting her hand sympathetically +while standing at her side.</p> + +<p>"Mamma," said he the other day to Mollie in +Eskimo, with a pleased smile on his face, and when +the two were alone, "the ladie loves me."</p> + +<p>"How do you know?" asked Mollie.</p> + +<p>"Because," he said shyly, putting his little arms +about her neck, "because she kissed me." Whereupon +Mollie did the same, and assured him of her +own love, always providing, of course, that he was +a good boy, and did what papa and mamma told +him to do.</p> + +<p>This conversation Mollie reported to me a few +days after it took place, and I assured her with +tears welling up in my eyes that the little child had +made no mistake. Strange action of the subjective +mind of one person over another, even to the understanding +by this Eskimo baby of a stranger heart, +and that one so unresponsive as mine. The child, +deprived as he was of an own mother's love, still +hungered and thirsted for it, and he was quick to +discern in my eyes and voice the secret for which +he was looking. How I should enjoy giving my +whole time to these two children, and they really +do need me to teach and care for them; but I am +dividing myself between them and the Mission, and +the winter days are very short.</p> + +<p>The thermometer today registered fourteen degrees +below zero, against twenty-eight yesterday +and thirty below the day before that.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[Pg 315]</a></span></p> + +<p>Mr. H. has returned from Nome, bringing me a +package of kodak films sent from Oakland, Cal., +last August, and which I never expected to receive +after so long a time. I was delighted to get them, +and now I can kodak this whole district, above and +below.</p> + +<p>Mollie is trying to study English a little, but +with many interruptions on every hand. The big +living room is light and warm, our only study place, +and yet the rendezvous of all who care to drop in, +regardless of invitations, making it somewhat difficult +for us to concentrate our attention on the lessons. +The Marshal, the bartender, the clerks, +cooks, miners, natives, strangers and all come into +this room to chat, see and inquire for Jennie, play +with Charlie, and get warm by the fire. Here is an +opportunity of a lifetime to study human nature, +and I am glad, for it is a subject always full of interest +to me, though I frequently feel literally +choked with tobacco smoke, and wish often for a +private sitting-room.</p> + +<p>Sunday, January twentieth: We are snuggled indoors +by the fires under the most terrible blizzard +of the season so far, with furious gales, falling and +drifting snow, and intense cold. It is impossible +to keep the house as warm as usual, and I have +eaten my meals today dressed in my fur coat, my +seat at table being at the end with my back close to +the frosty north window. Though this is the place +of honor at the board, and the missionary's seat<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[Pg 316]</a></span> +when he eats in the Mission, still it is a chilly berth +on occasions, and this is decidedly one.</p> + +<p>The dining-room contains, besides the north +window, one on the south side as well, and though +both are covered with storm windows, the frost and +ice is several inches thick upon the panes, precluding +any possibility of receiving light from either +quarter unless the sun shines very brightly indeed, +and then only a subdued light is admitted. During +the night the house shook constantly in the terrific +gale, rattling loose boards and shingles, and I was +kept awake for several hours.</p> + +<p>At night I am in the habit of tossing my fur coat +upon my bed for the warmth there is in it, as I am +not the possessor of a fur robe, as all persons +should be who winter here. Furs are the only things +to keep the intense cold out in such weather as we +are now having, but with some management I get +along fairly well.</p> + +<p>A reindeer skin not in use from the attic makes +my bed soft and warm underneath, my coat over +my blankets answers the same purpose, and the +white fox baby robe from the old wooden cradle +upstairs makes a soft, warm rug on the floor upon +which to step out in the morning. Wool slippers +are never off my feet when my muckluks are resting, +and I manage by keeping a supply of kindlings +and small wood in my box by the stove, to have +a warm fire by which to dress.</p> + +<p>These days we do not often rise early, and ten<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">[Pg 317]</a></span> +o'clock frequently finds us at breakfast, but we +retire correspondingly late, and midnight is quite +a customary hour lately. Today we passed the time +in eating, sleeping, singing, and reading. A visiting +Swedish preacher came over a few days ago +from the Home, and is storm-bound in the Mission. +He is a large, heavy man, with a hearty voice and +hand grip, and is a graduate of Yale College, using +the best of English, having filled one of the vacant +Nome pulpits for several weeks last fall before +coming to Golovin.</p> + +<p>Today he has read one of Talmage's sermons to +us, and we have sung Gospel songs galore, in both +Swedish and English, with myself as organist. +When this is tired of, the smaller instruments are +taken out, and Ricka has the greatest difficulty in +preventing Alma from amusing the assembled company +with her mandolin solo, "Johnny Get Your +Hair Cut," the young lady's red lips growing quite +prominent while she insists upon playing it.</p> + +<p>"Good music is always acceptable, Ricka, and +on Sunday as well as on any other day, so I cannot +see why you will not let me play as I want to. I +do not think it a sin to play on the mandolin on +Sunday. Do you, Pastor F.?" asked Alma of the +preacher, appealingly, and in all innocence.</p> + +<p>What could he say to her? He laughed.</p> + +<p>"O, no," said Ricka, "I do not say that mandolin +music is sinful on Sunday, and if you would play +'Nearer My God to Thee,' or some such piece,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[Pg 318]</a></span> +and not play 'Johnny,' I should not object." And +she now looked at the preacher and me for reinforcements.</p> + +<p>Alma is not, however, easily put down, and the +contest usually winds up with Ricka going into +the kitchen where she cannot hear the silly strains +of "Johnny," which Alma is picking abstractedly +from the strings of the instrument, while the +preacher continues his reading, and I go off to my +room.</p> + +<p>Mr. Q., a Swedish missionary, and his native +preacher called Rock, have arrived from Unalaklik, +with the two visiting preachers at the Home, and +they held an evening service in the schoolhouse, +which was fairly well attended. There were seven +white men, the three women in this house and myself, +besides many natives of both sexes. Grandmother +was there with Alice, Ageetuk and others, +and the missionary spoke well and feelingly in English, +interpreted by Rock into Eskimo. One of the +preachers sang a solo, and presided at the organ. +Some of the native women present had with them +their babies, and these, away from home in the +evening, contrary to their usual habit, cried and +nestled around a good deal, and had to be comforted +in various ways, both substantial and otherwise, +during the evening; but the speakers were +accustomed to all that, and were thankful to have +as listeners the poor mothers, who probably could +not have come without the youngsters.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">[Pg 319]</a></span></p> + +<p>Considerable will power and auto-suggestion is +needed to enable me to endure the fumes of seal +oil along with other smells which are constantly +arising from the furs and bodies of the Eskimos, +made damp, perhaps, by the snow which has lodged +upon them before entering the room. Fire we +must have. Those who are continually with the +natives in these gatherings do get "acclimated," +but I am having a hard struggle along these lines.</p> + +<p>The three Swedish and one Eskimo preacher left +today for the Home, after I had taken a kodak +view of them, and their dog-team. As the wind +blew cold and stiffly from the northwest, they +hoisted a sail made of an old blanket upon their +sled.</p> + +<p>There are many who are ingenious, and who are +glad to help the sick child, Jennie, pass her time +pleasantly, and among them is the musician. Being +a clever artist as well as musician, he goes often to +sit beside Jennie, and then slate and pencils are +brought out, and the drawing begins. Indian +heads, Eskimo children in fur parkies, summer +landscapes, anything and everything takes its turn +upon the slate, which appears a real kaleidoscope +under the artist's hands. Jennie often laughs till +the tears run down her face at some comical drawing +or story, or the musician's efforts to speak +Eskimo as she does, and both enjoy themselves immensely.</p> + +<p>Yesterday Mollie went out to hunt for ptarmigan.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">[Pg 320]</a></span> +She is exceedingly fond of gunning, has +great success, and she and the child relish these +tasty birds better than anything else at this season. +Ageetuk also is a good hunter and trapper, +and brought in two red foxes from her traps yesterday, +when she came home from her outing with +Mollie. Little Charlie ran up to Mollie on her return +from her hunt, and cried in a mixture of Eskimo +and English:</p> + +<p>"Foxes peeluk, Mamma?" meaning to ask if she +did not secure any animals, appearing disappointed +when told by his mamma (for such she calls herself +to the child) that she did not find anything today +but ptarmigan.</p> + +<p>It was twenty degrees below zero this morning, +and the sun was beautifully bright. The days are +growing longer, and it is quite light at eight o'clock +in the morning. The short days have never been +tiresome to me because we have not lacked for fuel +and lights, and have kept occupied.</p> + +<p>One of the Commissioners and two or three +other men have been trying for a long time to get +their meals here, but the girls have pleaded too +little room, and other excuses, until now the Commissioner +has returned, and renewed his requests. +Today he came over and left word that he and +two others would be here to six o'clock supper, at +which the girls were wrathy.</p> + +<p>"I guess he will wait a long time before I cook +his meals for him," sputtered Alma, who disliked<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">[Pg 321]</a></span> +the coming of the official to the house, and under +no consideration would she consent to board him.</p> + +<p>"My time is too short to cook for a man like +that," declared Mary, with a toss of her head, as +she settled herself in the big arm chair in the sitting +room, and poor Ricka, whose turn it was this +week to prepare the meals, found herself in the embarrassing +position of compulsory cook for at +least two of the men she most heartily despised in +the camp, and this too under the displeasure of +both Alma and Mary.</p> + +<p>"What shall I do?" groaned Ricka, appealing to +me in her extremity. "Will you sit at table with +them tonight, Mrs. Sullivan? because Alma and +Mary will not, and I must pour the coffee. O, +dear, what shall I have for supper?" and the poor +girl looked fairly bowed down with anxiety.</p> + +<p>"O, never mind them, Ricka," said I, "just give +them what you had intended to give the rest of us. +I suppose they think this is a roadhouse, and, if so, +they can as well board here as others; but if Alma +refuses to take them, I do not see what they can +do but keep away," argued I, knowing both Alma +and Mary too well by this time to expect them to +change their verdict, as, indeed, I had no desire for +them to do.</p> + +<p>"I'm sure it is not a roadhouse for men of their +class," growled Alma, biting her thread off with a +snap, for she was sewing on Mollie's dress, and +did not wish to be hindered. "I'll not eat my supper<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">[Pg 322]</a></span> +tonight till they have eaten; will you, Mary?"</p> + +<p>"Indeed, I will not," was the reply from a pair +of very set lips, at which Ricka and I retired to the +kitchen to consult together, and prepare the much-talked-of +meal.</p> + +<p>Then I proceeded to spread the table with a white +cloth and napkins, arrange the best chairs, and +make the kitchen as presentable as I could with +lamps, while Ricka went to work at the range. We +had a passable supper, but not nearly so good as we +usually have, for the official had not only taken us +by surprise, but had come unbidden, and was not, +(by the express orders of the business head of the +restaurant firm), to be made welcome.</p> + +<p>At any rate, Ricka and I did the best we could +under the circumstances, the meal passed in some +way, and the official then renewed his request to be +allowed to take all his meals in the Mission, meeting +with nothing but an unqualified refusal, much +to his evident disappointment.</p> + +<p>I doubt very much now the probability of my +getting any more copying to do for him, as he +says I could have persuaded Alma to board him if I +had been so inclined; but then I never was so inclined, +and have about decided that I do not want +his work at any price.</p> + +<p>January twenty-fifth: This has been a very cold, +windy day, but three of the men came in from prospecting +on the creeks, and have little to report. +To think of living in tents, or even native igloos,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">[Pg 323]</a></span> +in such weather for any length of time whatever, +is enough to freeze one's marrow, and I think the +men deserve to "strike it rich" to repay them for +so much discomfort and suffering. Mr. L. and B. +walked to the Home and back today—twenty-four +miles in the cold. I bought two more fox skins of +the storekeeper with which to make my coat +longer.</p> + +<p>Mr. H. and Miss J. came to hold a meeting in +the kitchen for the natives, and Mollie interpreted +for them, as Ivan was not present. They all enjoy +singing very much, and are trying to learn +some new songs. Contrary to my expectations, +they learn the tunes before they do the words, +which are English, of course.</p> + +<p>Later the musician came over and sang and +played for an hour and a half at the organ, which +all in the house enjoyed; but he is worried about +his friend, who was bitten by the mad-dog, and is +in poor health, he told us tonight. They have lately +moved into the old schoolhouse, and like there +better than their former lodgings, which were very +cold. There are three of them in the schoolhouse, +or rather cabin, for it is an old log building, with +dirt roof, upon which the grass and weeds grow tall +in summer, and under the eaves of the new schoolhouse, +a frame structure with a small pointed tower.</p> + +<p>Sunday, January twenty-seventh: The missionaries +held a meeting in the sitting room this forenoon +at which the Commissioner was present, not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">[Pg 324]</a></span> +because he was interested in the service, Alma says. +I suppose he had nothing else to do, and happened +to get up earlier than usual. I presided at the +organ, and Miss J. led the singing. The day was +a very bright one, but the thermometer registered +thirty degrees below zero.</p> + +<p>The missionaries have taken Alma with them +to visit for a few days, and do some sewing at the +Home. We all ran out upon the ice with them, but +did not go far, as it was very cold. For a low +mercury these people do not stay indoors, but go +about as they like dressed from top to toe in furs, +and do not suffer; but let the wind blow a stiff gale, +and it is not the same proposition.</p> + +<p>Four men came from the camp of the shipwrecked +people, the father of Freda, the little girl, +being one. They say the child and her mother are +well, and as comfortable as they can be made for +the present, but in the spring they will go back to +Nome.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">[Pg 325]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIII" id="CHAPTER_XXIII"></a>CHAPTER XXIII.</h2> + +<h3>LIGHTS AND SHADOWS OF THE +MINING CAMP.</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/da.png" width="56" height="150" alt="A" title="A" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">GAIN the boys are starting for the +Koyuk River country. Although it is +the twenty-eighth of January, and between +twenty-five and thirty degrees +below zero, nothing can deter Mr. L., +who has made up his mind to go to the +headwaters of the big river regardless +of weather. L., B. and a native +are to compose the party, and this time +they are going with reindeer. They +will take with them a tent, stove, fur sleeping bags, +matches, "grub," guns and ammunition, not to +mention fry pans and a few tins for cooking purposes. +Then they must each take a change of +wearing apparel in case of accident, and make the +loads as light as possible. B. has made it a point +to look well at his guns and cartridges, and has +been for days cleaning, rubbing and polishing, while +hunting knives have also received attention. The +party may have, in some way, to depend upon these +weapons for their lives before their return.</p> + +<p>January twenty-ninth: Twenty-five degrees below +zero, but without wind, and the boys have +started off on their long trip up the Koyuk. The +reindeer were fresh and lively, and when everything<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">[Pg 326]</a></span> +was loaded and lashed upon the three sleds, the +animals were hitched to them, when, presto! the +scene was changed in a moment. Each deer ran in +several directions at the same time as if demented, +overturning sleds and men, tossing up the snow +like dust under their hoofs, and flinging their antlers +about like implements of battle. Now each +man was put to his wit's end to keep hold of the +rope attached to the horns of the deer he was +driving, and we who had gone out upon the ice to +watch the departure feared greatly for the lives +of the men interested.</p> + +<p>At one time Mr. H., who was kindly assisting, +was flung upon the ground, while a rearing, plunging +animal was poised in mid-air above him; and I +uttered a shriek of terror at the sight, thinking +he would be instantly killed. However, he was +upon his feet in an instant, and pursuing the animals, +still clinging to the rope, as the deer must +never, under any consideration, be allowed to get +away with the loaded sleds.</p> + +<p>When one of the boys attempted to sit upon a +load, holding the rope as a guide in his hands, +there would be a whisk, a whirl, and quicker than +a flash over would go the load, sled and man, rolling +over and over like a football on a college +campus.</p> + +<p>At this time the sun shone out brightly, tinting +rosily the distant hills, and spreading a carpet of +light under our feet upon the ice-covered surface of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">[Pg 327]</a></span> +the bay. The clear, cold air we breathed was fairly +exhilarating, sparkling like diamonds in the sun-beams, +and causing the feathery snowflakes under +our feet to crackle with a delightful crispness.</p> + +<p>When the elasticity of the reindeer's spirits had +been somewhat lessened by exercise, a real start +was made, and we watched them until only small +dots on the distant trail could be distinguished.</p> + +<p>Something unpleasant has happened. M., the +Finlander, told me this morning that he wants the +room I occupy upstairs, and, of course, I will have +to give it up. As the other rooms upstairs must +be left for the men, of whom there are such numbers, +there is no place for me except on the old +wooden settle in the sitting room. To be sure, +this is in a warm corner, but there are many and +serious inconveniences, one being that I must of +necessity be the last one to retire, and this is +usually midnight.</p> + +<p>For some time past I have been turning over in +my mind the advisability of asking for the situation +of nurse and teacher to Jennie and Charlie, +and living in the hotel. Supplies are growing +shorter in the Mission as the weeks go by, and my +own are about exhausted, as is also my money. +The children need me, and there is plenty of room +in the hotel, though I am not fond of living in one.</p> + +<p>I have consulted Mr. H., who sees no harm in my +doing this if I want to. Meals are one dollar each +everywhere in Chinik, and most kinds of "grub"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">[Pg 328]</a></span> +one dollar a pound, while for a lodging the same +is charged. To earn my board and room in the +hotel by teaching and taking care of the two children +I should be making an equivalent to four dollars +a day, and I could have a room, at last, to myself. +This is the way I have figured it out; whether +Mollie and the Captain will see it in the same light +remains to be seen.</p> + +<p>Later: I ran over to see Mollie and her husband, +and to present my plan to them. They both assented +quickly, the Captain saying he does not +want Jennie to stop her studies, and she is fond of +having me with her. Besides, her mother wants +to spend a good deal of time out hunting and trapping, +as she thinks it better for Jennie, Charlie and +herself to have fresh game, of which they are so +fond, than to eat canned meats. I think it is better +for them, and shall not object to some of the +same fare myself when it is plenty. I am very +glad, indeed, of the opportunity to earn my board +and room in this way, for my work will only be with +and for the two children, and I love them very +much.</p> + +<p>January thirtieth: A bad storm came up this +afternoon with wind and snow. At the Mission +one of the newcomers is making two strong reindeer +sleds. He says he is used to Alaska winters, +has been up into the Kotzebue Sound country, and +is now going again with reindeer as soon as his +sleds are finished. He is exceedingly fond of music,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_329" id="Page_329">[Pg 329]</a></span> +and enjoys my playing. I wonder if he will +offer to stake a claim for me! I will not ask +him.</p> + +<p>January thirty-first: This terrible storm continues +with snow drifting badly, and with wind +most bitter cold. What about the boys on the +Koyuk trail? I fear they will freeze to death. I +have finished six drill parkies for the storekeeper, +but cannot get them to him in the blizzard.</p> + +<p>February first: I found when calling upon Jennie +today that her mother was sick in bed with a +very bad throat, so I spent most of the day and +evening there. I did all I could for Jennie as well +as Mollie, doing my best to amuse the child, who is +still strapped down on her bed, and must find the +day long, though she has a good deal of company. +I had a first-class six o'clock dinner at the hotel +tonight,—that is, for Alaska, at this season of the +year.</p> + +<p>February second: This is my birthday, and I +have been thinking of my dear old mother so far +away, who never forgets the date of her only +daughter's birth, even if I do. I should like to +see her, or, at least, have her know how well I am +situated, and how contented I am, with a prospect +before me which is as bright as that of most persons +in this vicinity. If I could send my mother a +telegram of a dozen words, I think they would read +like this: "I am well and happy, with fair prospects.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330">[Pg 330]</a></span> +God is good." I think that would cheer +her considerably.</p> + +<p>It is beginning to seem a little like spring, and +the water is running down the walls and off the windows +in rivers upon the floors of the Mission, which +we are glad are bare of carpets; the snow having +sifted into the attic and melted. The warm rain +comes down at intervals, and we are hoping for an +early spring.</p> + +<p>Mollie is really very sick, and must have a doctor, +her throat being terribly swollen on one side. +The pain and fever is intense, and though we are +doing all we know how to do, she gets no better. +Some men started out for the doctor at White +Mountain, but there was too much water on the +ice, and they returned.</p> + +<p>February sixth: The man who made the two +reindeer sleds for his Kotzebue trip has gone at +last with two loads and three reindeer. He wanted +his drill parkie hood bordered with fur, as I had +done some belonging to others, and I furnished +the fox tails, and sewed them on for him.</p> + +<p>"Shall I stake a claim for you?" asked the man +with a smile the day before he left the Mission.</p> + +<p>"O, I would like it so much!" said I, really delighted. +"I did not wish to ask you, because I +thought you had promised so many."</p> + +<p>"So I have," he replied, "but I guess I can stake +for one more, and if I find anything good I will remember +you."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">[Pg 331]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Shall I have a paper made out?" I inquired, +feeling it would be safer and better from a business +point of view to do so.</p> + +<p>"You may if you like. I will take it," said he; +and I thanked him very cordially, and hastened to +the Commissioner to have the paper drawn up. +It did not take long, and the man has taken it, and +gone. Being an old mail carrier and stampeder +of experience in this country, he ought to know +how to travel, and, being a Norwegian, he is well +used to the snow and the cold. He says he always +travels alone, though I told him he might sometime +get lost in a storm and freeze to death, at +which he only laughed, and said he was not at all +afraid. Two years afterwards he was frozen to +death on the trail near Teller City, northwest of +Nome. He was an expert on snowshoes or ski, +both of which he learned to use when a boy in +Norway.</p> + +<p>February tenth: The two young men, B. and L., +have returned from the Koyuk trip, having been +able to travel only three days of the eleven since +they left here on account of blizzards, but they will +not give it up in this way.</p> + +<p>Mollie and Jennie are better, the doctor having +been here two days. For the little invalid there is +nothing of such interest as Apuk's baby, and as the +child is well wrapped and brought in often to see +her, she is highly delighted. She holds the baby in +her arms, and hushes it to sleep as any old woman<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">[Pg 332]</a></span> +might, lifting a warning finger if one enters the +room with noise, for fear of waking it. Little Charlie +cries with whooping cough a great deal and is +taken to Ageetuk's house when he gets troublesome, +as he worries both Mollie and Jennie. Under +no consideration is Charlie to come near enough to +Jennie to give her the whooping-cough, for she +coughs badly already. She and I make paper dolls +by the dozen, and cloth dresses for her real dolls, +which, so late in the season, are getting quite dilapidated +and look as though they had been in the +wars.</p> + +<p>Many natives are now bringing beautiful furs +into camp for sale, and among others one man +brought a cross fox which was black, tipped with +yellow, another which was a lovely brown, and a +black fox valued at two hundred dollars which the +owner refused to sell for less, though offered one +hundred for it. I have never seen more lovely furs +anywhere, and I longed to possess them.</p> + +<p>It seems almost like having a hospital here now, +for we have another patient added to our sick list. +Joe, the cook, is ill, and thinks he will die, though +the doctor smiles quizzically as she doses him, +thinking as she does so that a few days in bed and +away from the saloons will be as beneficial as her +prescriptions.</p> + +<p>Today the hills surrounding the bay were lovely +in the warm sunshine both morning and evening,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">[Pg 333]</a></span> +pink tinted in the sunrise and purple as night approached.</p> + +<p>Mail came in by dog-team from Nome, going to +Dawson and the outside, so I mailed several letters. +I wonder if they will be carried two thousand +miles by dogs—the whole length of the Yukon, and +finally reach Skagway and Seattle.</p> + +<p>What a wicked world this is anyway! My two +fox skins were stolen from the living room of the +hotel last night, where I hung them, not far from +the stove, after having had them tanned, and forgetting +to take them to my room. I can get no +trace of them, and am exceedingly sorry to lose +them. The captain thinks the skins will be returned, +but I do not.</p> + +<p>The Commissioner from Council came into the +hotel, and he, with the resident official, proceeded +to celebrate the occasion by getting uproariously +drunk, or going, as it is here called, "on a toot," +which is very truthfully expressive, to say the least.</p> + +<p>February eighteenth: The doctor went home +several days ago. Mollie is better, and wore, at +the Sunday dinner yesterday, her new grey plaid +dress made by Alma, which fits well and looks +quite stylish. I sat with her at the long table which +was filled with guests, employees and boarders—a +public place for me, which I do not like over much, +but what can I do? The two Commissioners are +sobered, look sickly, and more or less repentant; +the resident official declaring to me he would now<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">[Pg 334]</a></span> +quit drinking entirely, and buy me a new silk dress +if he is ever seen to take liquor again.</p> + +<p>I had nothing to say to him, except to look disgusted, +and he took that as a rebuke. The other +Commissioner was exceedingly polite to me when +he came into the living room to bid all good-bye, +and said if, at any time, there was anything in the +way of business transactions he could do for me, +to let him know; he would be delighted—as if I +would ever ask any favor of him!</p> + +<p>The weather is blustery, like March in Wisconsin. +Mollie asked me to go upstairs with her, look +at rooms, and select one for myself, which I did, +deciding to take a small unfurnished one (except +for a spring cot, mirror, and granite wash bowl and +pitcher), as this will be easily warmed by my big +lamp, and it has a west window, through which I +will get the afternoon sun.</p> + +<p>I cleaned the floor, and tacked up a white tablecloth +which I had in my trunk, for a curtain; spread +my one deer skin rug upon the floor, made up the +cot bed with my blankets, opened my trunk, hung +up a few garments, and was settled. This is the +first spring bed I have slept upon since Mr. H. took +the velvet couch away from the Mission. I found +the boarded walls very damp, as was also the floor +after cleaning, but my large lamp, kept burning +for two hours, dried them sufficiently, and I am +quite well satisfied.</p> + +<p>Ageetuk has been papering the sewing-room<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">[Pg 335]</a></span> +with fresh wall paper, and it looks better, but it +has made a good deal of confusion all round, and +there are numbers of people, both native and white, +coming and going all day long.</p> + +<p>February twenty-third: Yesterday was Washington's +Birthday, but quiet here. Today Mollie and +I took Jennie and Charlie out on a sled with Muky +to push behind at the handle-bar through the soft, +deep snow. Mollie sat upon the sled, and rode +down hill twice with the children, Muky hopping +on behind; but I took a few kodak views of them, +which I hope will be good. I also received some +mail from the outside which was written last November.</p> + +<p>Some of the men in the hotel have tried to play +what they call "a joke" on me. The steward of +the house has a key which unfastens the lock on my +door, as well as others; so they went into my room +and tied a string to the foot of my bed, first boring +a hole through the boards into the hall, and running +the string through it. This string, I suppose, +they intended to pull in the night and frighten me; +but Mollie and I happened to go up there for something +and found it.</p> + +<p>I was indignant, but everybody of whom Mollie +inquired denied knowing anything of it, and I said +very little. Going to my trunk afterwards, I found +that the lock had been picked and broken,—a +pretty severe "joke," and one I do not relish, as +now I have no place in which to keep anything<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">[Pg 336]</a></span> +from these men. If they enter my room whenever +they choose in the daytime, what is to prevent +them when I am asleep? I took Mollie upstairs +and showed her the broken lock, and she stooped +to brush some white hairs from her dark wool +skirt.</p> + +<p>"Where they come from?" she asked suddenly. +Then, picking at the reindeer skin upon the floor +under her feet, she said, nodding her head decidedly, +"I know. He—Sim—come to me in sewing-room,—hair +all same this on two knees of +blank pants. I say, 'Where you get white reindeer +hair on you, Sim?' He say, 'I don't know.' Sim +make hole in wall, and string on bed for you, Mrs. +Sullivan. He make lock peeluk, too," and Mollie's +face wore a serious and worried expression.</p> + +<p>"O, well, Mollie," said I, "don't worry. I shall +say nothing to any of the men as they are mad at +me now."</p> + +<p>Mollie nodded significantly and said: "Your fox +skins peeluk, Mrs. Sullivan. Sim knows where—he +never tell—sell for whiskey, maybe," and Mollie +turned to go, as though he were a hopeless case, +and beyond her government.</p> + +<p>"Yes, Mollie, I think so; but you can not help +what these bad men do. I know that, and do not +blame you."</p> + +<p>"My husband very sorry 'bout fox skins. He +cannot find—he no blame," and she seemed to +fear that I would attach some blame to the captain.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">[Pg 337]</a></span></p> + +<p>"No, indeed, Mollie, I don't think your husband +can help what they do. I should not have left my +fox skins hanging in that room, and will be careful +in future, but if they come into my room they may +steal other things, and I do not like it."</p> + +<p>"I know, I know,—Sim no good—Joe no good—Bub +no good," and she went away in a very depressed +state of mind to Jennie and Apuk's baby.</p> + +<p>Of course Mollie told all to the captain, who immediately +accused the men in the bar-room, and +they all swore vengeance upon me from that on, so +I suppose they will do all they can to torment me.</p> + +<p>We are having a sensation in Chinik. The +"bloomin' Commissioner" is about to be deposed +from office, for unfitness, neglect of duty, and dissipation; +and a petition is being handed around +the camp by the Marshal, praying the Nome authorities +that he be retained. The honest storekeeper +refused to sign it, as have many of the +Swedes. The Commissioner swears by all that is +good and great to quit drinking, and be decent. +Time will tell—but I have no faith in him.</p> + +<p>Mollie goes often these days to look for foxes +and to shoot ptarmigan, taking with her a dog-team, +and a native boy or two with their guns. +When it is bright and sunny, I take the two little +children out in the fur robes on the sled, with a +native to push the latter, and I enjoy the outing +fully as well as they. Jennie is put to bed again on +her return, and the weight—a sand bag—attached<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">[Pg 338]</a></span> +to her foot, according to the doctor's orders.</p> + +<p>The weather is very springlike, and we have +wind "emeliktuk," as little Charlie says when he +has a plenty of anything. Snow storms are sandwiched +nicely in between, but many "mushers" are +on the trails. Mollie gets now and then a fox, +either white or crossed, and one day she brought +in a black one.</p> + +<p>Liquor is doing its fiendish work in camp each +hour of the twenty-four. Some are going rapidly +down the broad road to destruction; a few turn +their backs upon it, and seek the straighter way. +Some half dozen of the men headed by Sim and +Bub are drinking heavily most of the time, gambling +between spells for the money with which to +buy the poison.</p> + +<p>Very late one night a party of drunken men +pounded with their fists upon my door.</p> + +<p>"She's in—hic—there, boys," said one of the +men in a halting way customary with tipplers.</p> + +<p>"Bust in the door!" blurted another.</p> + +<p>"Drive her out'n here, Bub, ye fool!" yawned +another, almost too sleepy for utterance.</p> + +<p>In the meantime I lay perfectly still. Not a +sound escaped me, for although my heart beat like +a sledge hammer, and I was trembling all over, +I knew it was best not to speak. After a little more +parleying they all went off to finish their "spree" +elsewhere. Next day I reported the affair to the +captain, who, with his wife, in their ground floor<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_339" id="Page_339">[Pg 339]</a></span> +apartments in the farther end of the building, had +not heard the noise of the night before. Of course +the men were now furious, denying everything, calling +me a "liar," ad infinitum.</p> + +<p>A fine-looking young man, a dentist and doctor, +claiming to come from an eastern city, while sitting +at the table last evening, after much insane gibberish, +fell back intoxicated upon the floor, and lay +insensible for some time. He was finally, when the +others had finished eating, dragged off to bed in a +most inglorious condition, to suffer later for his +dissipation. O, how my heart ached for his dear +old mother so far away! If she had seen him as +I saw him, I think she would have died. It is better +for her to believe him dead than to know the truth.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">[Pg 340]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIV" id="CHAPTER_XXIV"></a>CHAPTER XXIV.</h2> + +<h3>AN UNPLEASANT ADVENTURE.</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/dw.png" width="56" height="150" alt="W" title="W" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">HEN Sunday comes, Jennie and I always +wear our best clothes, neither +sewing, studying, nor doing any +work, but we read Bible stories, learn +verses, look at pictures, and keep the +big music box going a good share of +the time. Sometimes if it is bright +and warm, I take the two children out +for a ride, and Jennie likes to call +upon her grandmother.</p> + +<p>The long front porch of the hotel has been +opened again, the sides having been taken off, and +the ice and snow cut away from the steps, so the +little ones often play upon the porch in the sun +for an hour or two. There are now a number of +little puppies to be fed and brought up, some of +them of pure Eskimo breed, and Charlie likes to +frolic with them by the hour. They are very cunning, +especially when Mollie puts a little harness +which she has made upon each one, making them +pull the sticks of wood she fastens behind in order +to teach them to haul a load. Mollie is frequently +gone for two days hunting, and if she does not find +what she looks for the first day she sleeps upon<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">[Pg 341]</a></span> +her sled a few hours rolled in her furs, then rises +and "mushes" on again.</p> + +<p>Far and near she is known and respected, and +the name of "Mollie" in this country is the +synonym of all that is brave, true and womanly; +hunting and trapping being for an Eskimo woman +some of the most legitimate of pursuits. The name +of Angahsheock, which means a leader of women +in her native tongue, was given her by her parents, +as those who know her acknowledge.</p> + +<p>In severe contrast to the character of Mollie is +Polly, who has developed an insane jealousy of +me on the children's account, and who never loses +an opportunity to annoy and insult me, much to +my surprise. One day she will hide my books, +pour soup over my dress in the kitchen, slam the +door in my face, and make jeering remarks in Eskimo, +causing the native boys to giggle; and worst +of all, telling Charlie in her language that I will +kill and eat him, thus making him scream when I +attempt to wash or dress him.</p> + +<p>However, there is another and principal reason +for her ill treatment of me, which is far reaching, +for Polly and Sim are cronies, and the girl does +what he tells her to do, and that is to torment me +as much as possible.</p> + +<p>For these reasons and others I decided some +time ago to carry my meals into the living room on +a tray when I give the children theirs; especially +when Mollie is away, and the rough element does<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_342" id="Page_342">[Pg 342]</a></span> +not feel the restraint of her presence at table. +There are no other white women in the house, unless, +perhaps, one comes in from the trail with the +men for a day, and these are, as a rule, not the kind +of women to inspire the respect of any one. So I +spread Charlie's and my food upon a small table, +and Jennie's on her own tray, for after each little +outing she is strapped and weighted down in bed +as before, and we would be very happy if it were +not for Polly, Sim, and a few other "toughs" in +the hotel and vicinity.</p> + +<p>Each day I manage, when Jennie is busy with +Apuk's baby, O Duk Dok, the deaf girl, grandmother, +and her other numerous Eskimo friends, +to slip away and run out for a little fresh air, and +into the Mission for a few minutes. Then I sit +down at the organ for a while, or hear of those +coming and going on the trails, perhaps climbing +the hill behind the Mission for more exercise before +going back to Jennie.</p> + +<p>The first week in April has been pleasant, and +sunny for the most of the time, but last night the +eighth of the month, the thermometer, with a high +wind, fell to thirty degrees below zero, and froze +ice two inches thick in my room upstairs.</p> + +<p>Mr. L. and B. have returned from their Koyuk +trip, having staked one creek upon which they +found colors, and which they were informed by natives +was a gold bearing creek. Their supply of +grub would not allow them to remain longer. They<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">[Pg 343]</a></span> +have staked a claim for me, with the others. Number +Fourteen, above Discovery, is mine, but they +do not give out the name of the creek until they +have been up there and staked another stream near +the first one. When I get my papers recorded I +shall feel quite proud of this, my best claim, perhaps, +so far; and I am thankful and quite happy, +except for the disagreeable features of hotel life, +which I am always hoping will be soon changed. +So long, however, as the deadly liquor is sold in +almost every store and cabin, the cause of disturbances +will remain, and men's active brains, continually +fired with poison as they are, will concoct +schemes diabolical enough to shame a Mephistopheles.</p> + +<p>Today, after due deliberation regarding the matter, +I asked B., on the aside, if he would lend me a +revolver. He gave me a quick and searching look.</p> + +<p>"Do you want it loaded?" he asked.</p> + +<p>"Yes, please, and I will call after supper for it," +said I, in a low tone, while going out the door.</p> + +<p>Early this morning, putting on my furs and carrying +a small shoe box under my arm, I ran over +to the Mission. In the hall I was met by B., to +whom I handed the box. He took it quietly and +went directly to his room, reappearing in a moment +and handing it back to me, saying significantly as +he did so: "Three doses of that are better than +one, if any are needed," which remark I understood +without further explanation.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">[Pg 344]</a></span></p> + +<p>I have brought the box to my room and have +placed it under the head of my cot upon the floor, +where, in case of emergency, it may be of service. +It is not a pretty plaything, and will not be used as +such by me, but I shall feel safer to know it is +near at hand.</p> + +<p>Little did I know when I selected my room the +day Mollie brought me upstairs that on the other +side of the board partition slept the man who had +killed another in the early winter; and, though the +murderer has so far never molested me in any way, +still he sometimes gets what they call "crazy +drunk," and is as liable to kill some other as he +was to kill the first; then, too, thin board walls +have ears, and I have heard the mutterings and +threats of these wretches for a number of weeks.</p> + +<p>I have been exceedingly sorry for a month past +to see the preparations my friends, the Swedish +women in the Mission, are making to go to Nome, +and now they expect to start tomorrow. They +must be in town to put everything in readiness for +the opening of the "Star" when the first steamers +arrive from the outside. The weather is bright +and pretty cold today, making the trails good, but +in a thaw they are bad and are now liable to break +up at any time. Quite a party will go to Nome, +Mr. L., M. and others, and they will travel with +dogs. I dread to see my Swedish friends, the only +white women in this camp with whom I can be +friendly, leave Chinik, for I shall then be more<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">[Pg 345]</a></span> +alone than ever. If this tiresome ice in the bay +would only move out so the boats could get in, we +should have others, but there is no telling when +that will be. Many are now betting on the breaking +up of the ice, and all hope it will be very soon.</p> + +<p>May second: My Swedish friends left very early +today for Nome, and only Miss L. from the Home +is there, sweeping out the place; but B. and the +visiting preacher will go with her to the Home today, +closing the hospitable doors of the Mission +for a time. This evening they held a meeting for +the natives in camp, and I attended, but it seemed +like a funeral without the friends now "mushing" +on the Nome trail.</p> + +<p>A woman has come to live at Mellie's, and is a +study in beaver coat, dyed brown hair (which +should be grey, according to her age), and with, +it is reported, a bank account of one hundred and +fifty thousand dollars, after having lived in Alaska +nearly five years. She is called a good "stampeder," +has a pleasant, smiling face, but is usually +designated "notorious."</p> + +<p>May tenth: Mollie went out early with Muky, +her dog-team and guns, to escort Ageetuk, Alice +and Punni Churah, with their mother, who is Mollie's +aunt, to their new hunting camp in the mountains. +At seven in the evening Mollie returned +with wet feet. Tomorrow she will take a net, and +some other things they have forgotten. They have +gone to take their annual spring vacation and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_346" id="Page_346">[Pg 346]</a></span> +hunt grey squirrels for a month, living in a hut in +the meantime. The weather is warm and springlike.</p> + +<p>May thirteenth: The captain has been obliged to +go to Nome on business, weak and ill though he +is, and has been for months. It did not seem to me +that he could live through the winter, and he is far +too weak to take this long trip over the trail, but +he says he is obliged to go, and will return at the +earliest possible moment. He has taken Fred, the +Russian boy, and a team of nine dogs, leaving after +supper, and intending to travel night and day, as +we now have no darkness.</p> + +<p>The dissipated men around camp, idle and +drunken most of the time, with nothing to occupy +their attention after the long, tedious winter, still +spend their hours in gossiping, swearing, drinking, +and gambling, knowing no day and no night, but +making both hideous to those around them. As a +destroyer of man's self-respect, independence, and +dignity, there is nothing to compare with the accursed +liquor. There are numbers of instances in +camp proving the truth of this statement. There is +the English clergyman's tall and handsome son, +well educated, musical and of agreeable manners—fitted +to grace the best society, but—liquor is +to blame for his present condition, which is about +as low as man can sink.</p> + +<p>It is ten in the evening and I am in my little +room upstairs, the only white woman in the camp<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_347" id="Page_347">[Pg 347]</a></span> +except Mellie and two like her. Down stairs in the +bar-room the men are singing, first coon songs and +then church hymns, with all the drunken energy +they can muster. The crash of broken glass, angry +oaths, and the slamming of doors reaches my ears +so frequently as to cause little surprise, the French +cooks in the kitchen adding their share to the disturbance. +In a distant part of the hotel lies the +little sick girl, her cot rolled each night close to +the bedside of her mother, who tries to soothe her +in her pain, Mollie and the wicked little Eskimo +servant being the only women besides myself in +the house. The noise and confusion increases +down stairs, and I shall sleep little tonight. I will +look at my revolver and see that its contents have +not been removed.</p> + +<p>May fifteenth: Here I am alone with the little +children, a bad native girl, and a gang of the worst +men in Alaska, Mollie having gone out hunting. +At midnight Sim, Mellie and several others left for +a dance at White Mountain, but it was two o'clock +in the morning before the house was quiet. While +I lay perfectly still, and trying to sleep, a man's +stealthy footstep passed my door. He walked in +his stocking feet—bare floors and walls echo the +slightest sound, and my ears are keen. Was it a +friend or foe? What was his object? My heart +beat with a heavy thud, but I remembered the loaded +revolver under my bed, and thanked God for it.</p> + +<p>After a long time I slept a fitful, uneasy sleep<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">[Pg 348]</a></span> +for an hour, and dressed myself as usual at half-past +six o'clock, feeling badly for want of needed +sleep. Afterwards I washed, dressed and fed the +children, amusing and entertaining them in my accustomed +way. Ageetuk's house being closed, +little Charlie is kept here all the time, Polly looking +after him nights. A saloon keeper named Fitts, +villainous in reality as well as in looks, is hanging +around continually, wearing the blackest of looks +at every one, having been in trouble nearly all winter, +and closing out his saloon a few weeks ago. +A big Dutchman, burly as a blacksmith and well +soaked in whiskey, lounges about in blue denim +and skull cap, winking his bleared eyes at Polly +and swearing soundly at his native wife when she +steps inside the doors to look after him.</p> + +<p>All went well for a while today after Mollie's +leaving, Jennie coaxing to be carried to her grandmother's +for a visit, to which I consented, until +Charlie and I sat down to supper, which I had +spread, as is my habit, in the living room. During +the day I had turned matters well over in mind, +and decided, with Mollie's advice, to sleep in her +bed alongside of Jennie's cot, and to have grandmother +stay with us, locking the doors of the +rooms, as they should be. To my consternation, +when I chanced to look for the keys in the doors, +there were none, showing plainly that they had +been removed.</p> + +<p>This looked like a trap. There was nothing to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_349" id="Page_349">[Pg 349]</a></span> +do, much as I disliked it, but to ask for the keys, +as I would never spend the night in the house +without them. Soon afterward the steward entered, +and I very calmly and politely asked for the +door keys of the two rooms, saying that I would +spend the night with Jennie. With cool insolence +he replied that he would lock them himself.</p> + +<p>Again the trap. I made no reply. I saw that he +had been drinking—that he was not himself, and +that it was useless to argue with him.</p> + +<p>After waiting for an answer, and getting none, +the man went out carelessly, leaving the door ajar +behind him. At that moment the supper bell rang +and he, with others, sat down to the table.</p> + +<p>"She wants the keys to the doors, she says," +drawled the man I had spoken with regarding +them.</p> + +<p>"What did ye tell her?" demanded one of the +ruffians.</p> + +<p>"I told her I would lock the doors myself," said +the fellow.</p> + +<p>"What does she want of keys? Who is she +afraid of? It must be you, Bub; 'tain't me," said +one.</p> + +<p>"You're a liar!" shouted Bub. "It's the genial +dispenser of booze here beside me she's afraid of."</p> + +<p>"I'll see to her after supper, you bet!" shouted +an official voice, at which I shuddered. A general +hubbub now ensued; among others I could distinguish<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_350" id="Page_350">[Pg 350]</a></span> +the word "black-snake whip," but I had +heard enough.</p> + +<p>I was planning as I listened. Leaning forward +I kissed the little child beside me, and said softly, +"Eat all your supper, dear, and then go to Polly. +'Sully' is going to grandma's."</p> + +<p>Throwing a light wrap over my head, I ran out +of the front door, and around the west end of the +house, careful not to pass the dining-room windows, +where the men would see me, and hastened +to grandmother's cabin, knowing that I should +there find Jennie. Grandmother lived alone except +for O Duk Dok, the deaf girl, and they must +give me shelter for the night.</p> + +<p>Here I found Jennie quite happy, with her deaf +friend sitting on the edge of the bed beside her, +while her grandmother was busy with her work.</p> + +<p>In a few words I explained to the old woman +the situation, and I was made welcome, Jennie being +pleased to remain in the cabin all night. I +knew Polly would put Charlie to bed when the time +came, and the boy was safe enough where he was. +I did not believe the gang would disturb me in +grandmothers' cabin, but I feared they would loot +my room in my absence.</p> + +<p>Here Jennie could assist me. I now asked her +to have O Duk Dok go out for the native named +Koki, and bring him to me, which she did, the deaf +girl understanding by the motion of the child's lips +what was being said.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_351" id="Page_351">[Pg 351]</a></span></p> + +<p>O Duk Dok then drew on her parkie, and went +out.</p> + +<p>"Koki," said I, when the native had entered the +room a few minutes later, and closed the door behind +him, "will you go to my room—Number +three—in the hotel, and get some things for me?"</p> + +<p>"Yes," was the laconic reply of the man.</p> + +<p>"Here is the key of the door. Between the mattresses +of the bed you will find two books, and in +the shoe box on the floor there is a revolver. Bring +them to me under your parkie so no one shall see +what you have. Take this little key, lock my trunk +and be sure you fasten the door behind you. You +won't forget?"</p> + +<p>"All right. I no forget," and Koki grinned, and +went out.</p> + +<p>He did not forget. In about twenty minutes he +returned, bringing the keys, revolver, and diaries +which I had kept hidden for fear the lawless fellows +might find and destroy them.</p> + +<p>I now felt much relieved. I did not think the +gang would come to the cabin, but in case they did +there was the revolver, and grandmother's two +doors had locks, which if not the very strongest, +were better than none, and I fastened them immediately +after Koki's departure.</p> + +<p>May eighteenth: The night I slept in grandmother's +cabin with Jennie passed quietly for us. +I slept in my clothes and muckluks, an old quilt and +fur parkie on some boards being my bed, though<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352">[Pg 352]</a></span> +grandmother finally gave me a double blanket for +covering when I asked for it.</p> + +<p>It was long past midnight before we slept. The +child was restless, and urged her grandmother to +tell her Eskimo stories. O Duk Dok slept heavily, +unconscious of all around her. My own senses +were on the alert. I listened intently to catch +every sound, but we were too far away from the +hotel to hear the carousal that I well knew was +there in progress. The mushers from the dance +were hourly expected home, and would then add +their part to the midnight orgies. The low droning +of the old Eskimo woman, telling her tales of the +Innuits, of the Polar bear, the seal and the walrus, +of the birds, their habits and nestlings; this +was the only sound I heard.</p> + +<p>After a time the others slept and I went to the +window and looked out. At my right, only a stone's +throw away, was the Mission, its windows and +doors all fastened, and its occupants gone. I felt +a heart-sinking sensation as I thought of the +friends who were there lately. Across the way was +the old schoolhouse, in which were the musician, +his partner and the deaf man, who had been bitten +by the mad dog. They were within calling distance, +and for that I felt thankful. I had dreaded +the night in the cabin for fear that I should suffer +for fresh air, but seeing a broken pane of glass +into which some cloth had been stuffed, I removed +the latter, and allowed the pure air to enter. Of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353">[Pg 353]</a></span> +course the place was scented with seal oil, but +grandmother's cabin was comparatively tidy and +clean.</p> + +<p>Next morning, when we knew that breakfast was +over, we went in a body to the hotel, grandmother +carrying Jennie on her back, according to Eskimo +custom. Some of the men were still sleeping off +their dissipation of the night before. Nothing was +said about our remaining away, and the Eskimo +women spent the day with us. Others also came, +called quietly in to see Jennie, and remained to the +meals I was glad to give them for their company.</p> + +<p>When six o'clock arrived, and still we saw nothing +of Mollie, I felt anxious. If she did not return +it meant another night in the native hut for us. +Eight, nine, ten o'clock—thank God! She had +come at last. I could have hugged her for joy. She +had nearly one hundred ptarmigan, enough to last +till the captain came home, and would not leave +us again alone.</p> + +<p>Later: The captain returned from Nome, having +made the trip of eighty-five miles and back by dog-team +in four days and nights, a very quick trip indeed. +The "toughs" have subsided, and are on +their good behavior for the present, at least, fearing +what the captain will say and do when their last +doings are reported, but I understand that most of +them are mortally offended at my remaining at +grandmother's, as no one takes offense so easily +as a rogue when his honesty is doubted.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_354" id="Page_354">[Pg 354]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXV" id="CHAPTER_XXV"></a>CHAPTER XXV.</h2> + +<h3>STONES AND DYNAMITE.</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/dt.png" width="56" height="150" alt="T" title="T" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">HE last week of May has finally come, +and with it real spring weather. The +children play out in the sand heap on +the south side of the house for hours +together, enjoying the warm sunshine +and pleasant air, the little girl +clothed from head to foot in furs. +Never has a springtime been so welcome +to me, perhaps because in striking +contrast to the long, cold winter +through which we have just passed. From the +hillside behind the Mission, the snow is slowly disappearing, +first from the most exposed spots and +rocks, the gullies keeping their drifts and ice +longer. Mosses are everywhere peeping cheerfully +up at me in all their tints of gorgeous green, some +that I found recently being tipped with the daintiest +of little red cups. This, with other treasures, I +brought in my basket to Jennie when I returned +from my daily walk upon the hill, and together we +studied them closely under the magnifying glass.</p> + +<p>To examine the treasures brought in by Mollie, +however, we needed no glass. They are sand-pipers, +ptarmigan, squirrels, and occasionally a wild +goose, shot, perhaps, in the act of flying over the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_355" id="Page_355">[Pg 355]</a></span> +hunter's head, as these birds are now often seen +and heard going north. In the evening I see from +my window the neighboring Eskimo children playing +with their sleds, and sometimes they light a +bonfire, shouting and chattering in their own +unique way. All "mushers" now travel at night +when the trail is frozen, as it is too soft in the daytime, +and the glare of the sun often causes snow-blindness. +Then, too, there is water on the ice in +places, which we are glad to see, and pools of the +same are standing around the Mission and schoolhouse. +I can no longer go out in my muckluks, +but must wear my long rubber boots and short +skirts.</p> + +<p>Today I went out for an hour, walking to Chinik +Creek over the tundra, from which the snow has +almost disappeared, and returned by the hill-top +path. The tundra was beautiful with mosses, +birds were singing, and the rushing and roaring +of the creek waters fairly made my head swim, they +were such unusual sounds. The water was cutting +a channel in the sands where it empties into the +bay. Here it was flowing over the ice, helping to +loosen the edge and allow it to drift out to sea.</p> + +<p>There is little change in the manners and dispositions +of the rough men in camp. There are the +same things with which to contend day after day, +the same annoyances and trials to endure, with +new ones in addition quite frequently.</p> + +<p>June has come at last, and all the world should<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_356" id="Page_356">[Pg 356]</a></span> +be happy, but, alas, there is always some worm in +the bud to do the blasting. This morning about +three o'clock I was wakened by the sound of +drunken voices outside my window, followed by +stones hurled against the side of the house. Quickly +rising, I cautiously peeped out from behind the +curtain, but was not surprised at what I saw. +There, about a hundred feet away, were four men, +all well known to me as members of the gang, and +all in the most advanced stages of intoxication. +On the step of a neighboring cabin sat the murderer, +Ford, hugging in a maudlin way a big black +bottle.</p> + +<p>On the ground, in the dirt, there rolled two +young men, the Englishman underneath, and Big +Bub over him. Sim, the leader, had aimed four +stones at my window, but missed it, and felt the +need of more stimulant, so he took the bottle from +Ford, carried it to the lumber pile, a few feet away, +sat down, put it to his lips and drank heavily. +Again and again he tipped up the bottle while he +drank, but finally threw it away empty. Then, +with much exertion, he stooped to pick up a stone.</p> + +<p>He was aiming at my window. I dodged into +a corner, but the box washstand stood partly in +my way. Would he hit his mark? I did not believe +it. He was too drunk. Crack! came the stone +against the house.</p> + +<p>I waited. Another followed. In the meantime +the other men had paid no attention to him, as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_357" id="Page_357">[Pg 357]</a></span> +Ford was watching the two tumblers, the lumber +pile being between them and Sim; and the three +started for the front door around the south side +of the house. Sim followed them. I now hoped +he would forget his stone throwing. When they +were all out of sight I breathed more freely. Surely +now the trouble was over, I thought, and I threw +off my fur coat which I had hastily pulled on over +my wrapper, crept into bed and covered my head +with the blankets.</p> + +<p>I now thought quickly. Even if Sim should forget +to throw more stones, would he not soon come +upstairs and perhaps give me more trouble? Would +it not be better to dress myself and be prepared +for any emergency? I was hurriedly deliberating +upon the matter—my head still covered with the +blankets—when there was a loud crash and shivered +glass covered the floor and the bed clothes. +Instantly throwing the latter back, I looked around +me. I could see no stone, and I had heard none +fall upon the floor, but it must be there somewhere.</p> + +<p>I now stepped carefully out of bed, in order to +avoid the glass, my feet being already in knit, wool +slippers, with thick, warm soles—and again +looked out.</p> + +<p>There was no one to be seen. Sim had done +his dastardly work, and gone indoors. Would this +end it? My teeth shattered, and I felt cold. I +must keep my nerve, however, and I did so, dressing +myself carefully even to my stout shoes which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_358" id="Page_358">[Pg 358]</a></span> +I laced up in front and tied. Then I drew on my +fur coat and sat down to wait.</p> + +<p>Below the four men were poking around in the +kitchen, trying to find something to eat or drink. +It was not long before I heard them coming upstairs, +and all tumbled into the next room, which +was occupied by Ford.</p> + +<p>If they came to molest me further there was yet +one way of escape which I would try before using +my revolver. The weapon I did not want to use +unless driven to it. There was the staging outside +my window which had never been removed since +the house was built, the year before. I could very +easily step out upon it, and walk to the end of the +house, but then I must either jump or remain, for +there was no ladder. This staging was, perhaps, +twenty feet from the ground, and the latter frozen. +To slide down a post would tear my hands fearfully.</p> + +<p>I had not long to wait. To go peaceably to bed +seemed to be the last thing these men thought of, +and one picked up a gun, which, for hunting purposes, +every man in the house kept close at hand.</p> + +<p>"I zay, now, Bub, put up zat gun. Zis ain't no +place for shootin'," drawled a thick, sleepy voice +which I recognized instantly.</p> + +<p>"Shut yer gab! Who's hurtin' you?" answered +Bub, the biggest of the four, and one of the ugliest +when intoxicated.</p> + +<p>"Mrs. Sullivan's in the next room. You wouldn't<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_359" id="Page_359">[Pg 359]</a></span> +shoot her, would you?" asked Sim sneeringly in a +loud tone, for he could stand up under great quantities +of liquor.</p> + +<p>"Sh! Keep still a minute, you fool!" in a harsh +whisper from Bub.</p> + +<p>I was now thankful that I was dressed. I waited +no longer. Opening the door I ran down stairs to +Mollie and the captain, knocking loudly upon their +door.</p> + +<p>"Hang those brutes!" exclaimed the captain +angrily, when I had finished telling him what had +happened. "What is the matter with them, any +way?"</p> + +<p>"Whiskey," said I. "They are all as drunk as +pirates."</p> + +<p>"Show me your room and window," demanded +the captain, who by this time had gotten into some +of his clothing, and stepped into the living room +where I was.</p> + +<p>I then led the way upstairs, and threw open my +door. What a sight! Broken glass covered the +floor and bed, the cool morning air pouring in +through the broken pane of which there was little +left in the sash.</p> + +<p>That was enough for the captain. He made +straight for the next room, where all was now perfectly +still, only Ford remaining in it, the others +having had sense enough to sneak off to their own +places, after hearing me run down stairs to report.</p> + +<p>Seizing my blankets I closed and locked the door<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_360" id="Page_360">[Pg 360]</a></span> +and made my way down stairs to Mollie. Above +we could hear the captain's voice in angry altercation +with the men, they denying everything, of +course, even the stone throwing, with the window +as evidence against them. It was half-past four and +I had slept little. There was no fire in the house, +and I was cold; so, throwing down a few skins in +a corner of the sewing-room, with my blankets +upon them, I covered myself to get warm.</p> + +<p>At last the house was once more quiet, and I +slept for an hour, only to meet black and angry +looks from the men all day, accompanied by threats +and curses, though I said nothing to them. I +picked up the stone from my reindeer rug, where it +had fallen after shattering the window pane, and it +lay only two feet from my head. It was about the +size of an egg.</p> + +<p>Of course it is impossible for me to leave Chinik, +as the winter trails are broken up, the ice has not +left the bay, and no steamers can enter; so we are +practically prisoners. O, how I long to get away +from this terrible place! Never since I came to +Chinik have I given these men one cross word, and +yet they hate me with a bitter, jealous hatred, such +as I have never before seen. Some weeks ago I +pinned a slip of paper into my Bible, upon which +I have written the address of my parents, in case +anything should happen to me. O, to be once +more safe at home with them! God grant that I +may be before many months shall have passed.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_361" id="Page_361">[Pg 361]</a></span></p> + +<p>A splendid warm, bright day, June thirteenth, +the most of which the children and I have spent +upon the sandy beach in front of the hotel. Little +Jennie lies and plays on the warm, dry sand, +though, of course, she does not stand on her feet +nor walk. Other small Eskimos come to play +with them, for Charlie is always on hand for a +play spell on the sand, and I doze and read under +my umbrella in the meantime, with an eye always +upon them. They make sand pies, native igloos, +and many imaginary things and places, but more +than any other thing is my mind upon the coming +of the steamers, when I hope to get away.</p> + +<p>Mollie came in last night from a seal hunt upon +the ice, and she, with the three native boys, secured +a white seal, and eight others, but did not bring +all with them. There is a great deal of water on +the ice at this time, and none but natives like to +travel upon it. Ducks and geese are flying northward +in flocks above our heads, and we feast daily +upon them. They are very large and tasty, and +the cook knows well how to serve them.</p> + +<p>We now see a line of blue water out beyond the +ice, and even distinguish white breakers in the distance. +Today I took a field glass, and climbing the +hill behind the Mission to look as far out as possible, +strained my eyes to see a steamer. As I +stood upon the point to get a better view, the whole +world around seemed waking from a long, long +sleep.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_362" id="Page_362">[Pg 362]</a></span></p> + +<p>At my left was Chinik Creek, pouring its rushing +waters out over the bay ice with a cheerful, +rapid roaring. Farther away south stretched the +Darby Cape into blue water which looked like indigo, +surmounted by long rolling breakers with +combs of white, all being fully fourteen miles away. +To the northwest of the sand-spit upon which +Chinik is built, and which cuts Golovin Bay almost +in two, the Fish River is also emptying itself, as is +Keechawik Creek and other smaller streams. Over +all the welcome sunshine is flooded, warming the +buds and roots on the hillside, and making all +beautiful.</p> + +<p>June seventeenth: This is Bunker Hill Day in +New England, and the men have been celebrating +on their own account, setting off a fifty pounds +box of dynamite in the neighborhood to frighten +the women, I suppose. The shock was terrific, +breaking windows, lamp shades, and jarring +bottles and other articles off the shelves. Jennie +was dreadfully frightened, and screamed for a few +minutes, while the living room soon filled with +men inquiring the cause of the explosion. By and +by a man came in saying that another box of giant +powder would be set off, but with that the Marshal +left the room with a determined face, and we heard +no more dynamiting. The men, as usual, were intoxicated.</p> + +<p>I have just had a pleasant little outing at the +Home, going with Mollie, who invited me to go<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_363" id="Page_363">[Pg 363]</a></span> +with her. She was going out seal hunting on the +ice, would leave me at the Home for a short visit, +and pick me up on her return. Ageetuk and +grandmother would take good care of Jennie for +so short a time, and I needed the change, so I +ran up to my room, threw some things hastily into +a small bag to take with me, locked my trunk, (I +had long ago put a package consisting of papers +and diaries into the safe in the kind storekeeper's +care), dressed myself in my shortest skirts and +longest rubber boots, and we started. The weather +was too warm for furs in sunshine, or while running +behind a sled, so I wore a thick jacket, black +straw hat with thick veil, and kid gloves.</p> + +<p>We left the hotel about half-past seven o'clock +in the evening, but with the sun still high and +warm. Mollie had her small sled and three dogs, +with Muky and Punni Churah and their guns. The +other sled was a large one, and to it were hitched +seven good dogs, accompanied by Ituk and Koki. +Upon the sleds were furs, guns, bags and fishing +tackle. Along shore there was considerable water +on the ice, in a few spots the latter had disappeared, +and we could see the sandy beach, but +farther east the ice was firmer, and Mollie, who +made for the best looking places, led the way, I +running closely in her footsteps.</p> + +<p>Behind us came the men and teams, the calls of +the Eskimos to their dogs sounding musically on +the quiet evening air. Mollie and I were now<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_364" id="Page_364">[Pg 364]</a></span> +leaping over water-filled cracks or lanes in the +ice, she having assured me that after getting away +from the shore it would be better traveling, and we +could ride on the sleds when we were tired, but +I felt considerable pride in keeping up with her, and +soon grew very warm from the stiff exercise, unaccustomed +as I was, while she was well used to it.</p> + +<p>After we had left the shore some distance behind +us we halted for the sleds to come up, Mollie seating +herself upon the small one, I waiting for the +other a little later. There I ran at the handle-bars +for a time, but at last I threw myself upon the +sled among the furs, and pulled a parkie over me. +We were now in the water a foot deep most of the +time, the dogs picking their way along over the +narrowest water lanes, Ituk and Koki shouting to +them to gee and haw, and with Eskimo calls and +whip-snapping, urging them on continually.</p> + +<p>Soon we left the smaller sled behind; Mollie, +Muky and Punni making the air ring with laughter +and Eskimo songs. As we started out from home +the sun shone brightly upon us, but as we left the +land at our backs, and made our way farther out +upon the bay, the sun dropped lower and lower, the +sky became a mass of crimson and yellow, and +the whole world seemed modestly blushing.</p> + +<p>Along the east shore the rolling hills lay almost +bare of snow, the brown tundra appearing softly +and most artistically colored. To the north the +mountains were still tipped with snow, as was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_365" id="Page_365">[Pg 365]</a></span> +also the promontory—Cape Darby, at the extreme +southeast point. This was spotted and +streaked with white, its rocky cliff black in shadow +by contrast. Our eyes eagerly scanned the horizon +for steamers, and a schooner had been reported +off Darby loaded with fresh fruits and vegetables, +but we could not see it.</p> + +<p>By and by we were past most of the water lanes, +and the ice was better. At half-past nine o'clock in +the evening the sky was exceedingly grand, and a +song of gratitude welled up in my heart, for this +was another world from the one we had just left, +and I no longer wondered at Mollie's love of hunting +in the fresh air, under the beautiful skies, and +with her freedom to travel wherever she liked.</p> + +<p>With her I felt perfectly safe. No harm could +come to me when Mollie led the way, and my confidence +in the native men was equally strong; for +were they not as familiar with ice and water as +with land? I soon saw that we were headed toward +the island, though I did not know why, and by this +time Mollie was far ahead, also that we were being +followed by a dog-team from Chinik, which puzzled +me, for I had not heard that others were going +out hunting for seal, or starting for the Home, +which was my destination.</p> + +<p>When we reached the north end of the small island +Mollie ran up the path like a deer, I following, +as did the natives, leaving the dogs to rest upon +the ice. From a hole in the rocks Koki now hauled<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_366" id="Page_366">[Pg 366]</a></span> +his kyak or small skin boat, where he had left it +from a former trip, and dragging it down upon the +ice, he lashed it upon the small sled to be carried +still farther.</p> + +<p>The dog-team, which I had seen following in the +distance, had now come up with us, and I heard +one man say to the other: "There is Mrs. Sullivan," +but I did not recognize the voice. When +they came nearer, we found it to be two men from +camp who were going out to the schooners to buy +fruit and vegetables, and they wanted to get a dog +belonging to them which Mollie had borrowed and +had hitched into her team. A change of dogs was +then made, and we started—Mollie and I on her +big sled, the other two following.</p> + +<p>We now skirted the rocky cliffs, and found the ice +hummocky between great, deep cracks where the +water was no longer white, but dark and forbidding. +Sometimes Koki suddenly started the dogs to one +side to avoid dark-looking holes in the ice, the +dogs leaping over seams which quickly lay beneath +us as the fore and hinder parts of our sled +bridged the crevasse of ugly water.</p> + +<p>Now the sled swayed from side to side as the +dogs made sudden curves or dashes, then a big +hummock of ice and snow had to be crossed, and +one end of the sled went up while the other went +down. I was holding to the side rails with both +hands, and knowing that the sled was a good, +strong one, I had no fear of its breaking, but my<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_367" id="Page_367">[Pg 367]</a></span> +feet were cold in my rubber boots, and I had drawn +some furs over me.</p> + +<p>Mollie is not a great talker, she seldom explains +anything, and one has only to wait and see +the outcome of her movements, and this I did, +when she suddenly with Ituk left the sleds and +climbed the rocks of the island again on the south +side. Then I saw them gathering sticks and small +driftwood, and knew that they would make a fire +upon the ice at midnight, while preparing to hunt +for seals.</p> + +<p>Coming to a rough place, with high-piled ice between +great, ugly seams over which the sagacious +dogs dragged the sleds always in a straight line, +not slantwise, I climbed out, and Mollie and Ituk +came with their driftwood, which they threw upon +the sled; the two men making for the schooner +forging ahead in the direction of Cape Darby.</p> + +<p>Ituk and Muky now made ready to go with +me to the Home, a half mile away to the east where +they were also to get some bread, this important +item having been forgotten in the hurry of departure +from Chinik. In the meantime Mollie, not +to lose a moment of time, as is her method, had +gotten out her fishing tackle and was already fishing +for tom-cod through a hole in the ice. Bidding +her Beoqua (good-bye), we started for the +Home, Ituk politely taking my little bag, and +Muky leaping lightly over the rocks toward the +mainland. Along the shore of the island I was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_368" id="Page_368">[Pg 368]</a></span> +fearful of cutting my boots on the jagged rocks +and rubble thickly strewn over the sands, and had +to proceed cautiously for a time, but Ituk, perceiving +my difficulty, led to a smoother path, and we +were soon on the mainland, and upon the soft +tundra, when it was only a few minutes walk to +the Home.</p> + +<p>It was eleven o'clock in the evening, and we +found the missionaries just returned from a trip to +the schooner, where they had secured fresh potatoes +and onions. The smell and taste of an +onion was never so good to me before, and the potatoes +were the first we had seen in six months.</p> + +<p>I had been in the Home in the early spring for a +day, and now, as then, met with a warm welcome +from the missionaries. They now had double the +number of native children they had in Chinik, and +their house is large and commodious, though unfinished.</p> + +<p>I was assigned the velvet couch upon which I +had spent a good many nights, and the two natives +returned to Mollie after securing some bread from +Miss E. for their lunches.</p> + +<p>Next day we visited, and I rested considerably, +finding again how good it was to be in a safe and +quiet place with no fear of stone throwers or giant +powder.</p> + +<p>About half-past ten o'clock in the evening, just +after the sun had set, we started on our return trip, +Mollie having arrived with her dog-teams and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_369" id="Page_369">[Pg 369]</a></span> +natives. The sunset sky was exceedingly beautiful, +but beneath our feet we had only very bad ice +and water. Near the island great ice cakes were +floating, interspersed with dark seams and lanes +wider than we had before seen. Sometimes I rode +on one of the sleds or walked, ran or leaped over +the water holes to keep up with the rest until too +tired and heated, when I threw myself upon a sled +again; but as we proceeded we found firmer ice and +less water. Mollie and I had both to ride upon +one sled now, for Ituk had lashed the kyak upon +the little one, and they were one dog short, as an +animal had run away while they were eating supper +at the Home. Finally, pitying the dogs upon the +large sled, who seemed to have a heavy load (although +only one seal, as they had met with little +success in hunting), I motioned to Ituk to wait for +me, which he did.</p> + +<p>"Ituk," I called, as I came nearer, "let me ride +in the kyak, will you?"</p> + +<p>"You ride in kyak?" asked the man in surprise.</p> + +<p>"Yes, let me get in, I will hold on tight," and, +as he made no objection, I climbed upon the boat, +crept into the hole made for that purpose and sat +down.</p> + +<p>"All right, Ituk; I am ready," I said.</p> + +<p>The man laughed, cracked his whip, and the dogs +started.</p> + +<p>I had not before realized that I would be sitting +so high up, and that at each dip in a crack or depression<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_370" id="Page_370">[Pg 370]</a></span> +of the ice, when the sled runner ran a little +higher than the other, I should stand a grand +chance of being spilled into the water, but my feet +were so cold in my rubber boots that I was thinking +to get them under cover would be agreeable, +and though Ituk probably well knew what the outcome +of my ride would be, he very patiently agreed +to allow me to try it.</p> + +<p>We had not gone far when our dogs made a +sudden dash or turn, the right-hand runner slipped +lengthwise into a seam, and over we went, sled, +kyak, woman and all upon the ice in a sorry heap. +The dogs halted instantly, and Ituk, who had been +running on the left-hand side of them, came back at +my call.</p> + +<p>"O, Ituk, come here and help me! I cannot +get out of the kyak," I cried lustily. "I will not +get into it again," and I rubbed my wrist upon +which the skin had been slightly bruised, and he +assisted me to my feet.</p> + +<p>The native laughed.</p> + +<p>"Kyak no good—riding—heap better run," he +said.</p> + +<p>"That's so, Ituk, but my feet are very cold."</p> + +<p>"Get warm quick—you running," was his reply, +and we started on again.</p> + +<p>When five or six miles from Chinik the water became +more troublesome, and our progress was +slow. We were wading through holes, leaping over +seams, and treading through slush and water. It<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_371" id="Page_371">[Pg 371]</a></span> +was colder than the night before, a thin skin of ice +was forming, but not firm enough to hold one up. +I was cold and cuddled into the sled with Mollie, +but the two natives running alongside were continually +sitting upon the rail to get a short ride +instead of walking, thus loading the sled too heavily +upon one side, and we were soon all tumbled into +water a foot deep.</p> + +<p>As I went over I threw out my arm to save myself, +and my sleeve was soaked through in an instant. +Koki and Muky thought it great fun, and +laughed and shouted in glee, but to me it was a +little too serious. My clothes were wet through +on my right side, and I was now obliged to run +whether I wanted to do so or not, for we were fully +a mile from home. My gloves and handkerchief +were soaked with water, and I threw them away, +thrusting my hands into my jacket pockets and +running to keep up with the others.</p> + +<p>We were now wading and leaping across frequent +lanes, and were more in the water than upon +the ice. The sharp eyes of the natives had discerned +the shore line well bordered by open water, +and they were wondering how they would get +across. Finally we could get no farther, and were +a hundred feet from the beach.</p> + +<p>"Dogs can swim," said Mollie, sententiously, +as was her habit.</p> + +<p>"How will you and I get on shore, Mollie?" I +asked anxiously.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_372" id="Page_372">[Pg 372]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Ituk, big man,—he carry you, may be," answered +Mollie, roguishly, with a twinkle.</p> + +<p>"But," I continued seriously, "how deep is the +water, anyway, Koki?" seeing that he had been +wading in to find out.</p> + +<p>"Him not much deep. We walk all right,—'bout +up here," and the native placed his hand half +way between his knee and thigh to show the depth, +then walking a little farther down towards the hotel +he seemed to find a better place, and called for all +to follow, which we did.</p> + +<p>The men waded across to the shore, stepping +upon stones which now and then, at this point, +were embedded in the sand, Mollie boldly following +their example. All wore high-skin boots, +coming far above their knees, and water-tight, but +my rubber-boots had never been put to a test like +this, only coming a little above my knees, where the +soft tops were confined by a drawstring, and this +water was very cold, as I had good reason to +know.</p> + +<p>However, there was nothing to do but go on, +first watching the others, and then plunging boldly +in. I drew my boot-tops higher, fastened the +strings securely, picked up my short skirts and +wound them closely about me, but not in a manner +to impede my progress, and stepped in.</p> + +<p>By this time the dogs and men were upon the +sands, and making for home, only a few rods away, +but I took my time, walking slowly in order that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_373" id="Page_373">[Pg 373]</a></span> +the water should not slop over the tops of my +boots, and we finally reached the beach and the +house safely.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_374" id="Page_374">[Pg 374]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVI" id="CHAPTER_XXVI"></a>CHAPTER XXVI.</h2> + +<h3>GOOD-BYE TO GOLOVIN BAY.</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/do.png" width="56" height="150" alt="O" title="O" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp">N the morning of the twenty-sixth of +June I awoke to find that the ice had +drifted out to sea in the night, eight +days after Mollie and I had taken our +twelve miles trip across the bay and +return. Then came hard rain and +wind, that, for several days, blew the +ice back into the bay, first to one side, +and then to the other, so that the +steamers waiting to come in could not +do so for fear of the drifting floes. By the thirtieth +of June schooners were coming into the bay with +passengers and freight, and the coast steamers, +"Elmore" and "Dora," had begun to make regular +trips to and from Nome.</p> + +<p>With them came mails from the outside, with +newspapers and tidings of friends in the States. +Then our fingers trembled at opening our letters +until we found that all our dear ones were well, +and we heartily thanked the Lord. There were +other white women in camp by this time, and many +strangers at the hotel, among others, officials, and +those in authority.</p> + +<p>Since the stone-throwing episode the Marshal +had been doing duty as watchman, sleeping during<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_375" id="Page_375">[Pg 375]</a></span> +the day and guarding the house nights, the heavy +iron "bracelets" in his inner coat pocket weighing +scarcely more than the loaded revolver in his +belt.</p> + +<p>Our little sick girl being obliged now to keep her +bed continually, with no more playing in the sand +and sunshine, although her cough had left her, was +still the same sweet, patient child she had been +through all her illness, and my whole time was +given to her. Before one of the sunny south windows +of the living room we placed her cot each +morning, and here she received her numerous +friends, both Eskimo and white, and their names +were legion. They came from the east, west, +north and south, all sorry to know of her illness, +and bringing presents with them.</p> + +<p>Sometimes it was a little live bird or squirrel, +a delicious salmon trout or wild fowl for her supper; +sometimes it was candy, nuts, or fresh fruit +from Nome, and with everything she was well +pleased and joyous. Friends soon came in from +the outside, bringing city dolls dressed in ribbons +and laces; there were tiny dishes, chairs, tables,—a +hundred things dear to a little girl's heart, and +all pleased her immensely, but all were laid quickly +aside for a basket of wild flowers or mosses, for a +fish, bird, animal or baby, showing plainly her taste +for the things of nature in preference to art. Her +love for her birthplace, with its hills, streams and +ocean is a sincere one, and, young as she is, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_376" id="Page_376">[Pg 376]</a></span> +having seen the great city by the Golden Gate, +with many of its wonders, she is happiest in Chinik.</p> + +<p>Here lives her dear, old grandmother, her cousins +and aunts, not to mention the little calico-capped +baby belonging to Apuk, for which she has a whole +heartful of love, and the sight of which is better to +her than medicine.</p> + +<p>During the month of July we eagerly watched +the incoming steamers, and welcomed all new comers +who landed in Chinik. Many were simply passing +through on their way up Fish River to the +mines, and praise of the land of the "Ophir" gold +was sung on all sides. A few remained for the +summer. Here men built boats, and rowed away +to Keechawik and Neukluk, carrying supplies for +hunting or prospecting.</p> + +<p>The captain's vegetable garden in the sand was +growing rapidly, and was watched with eager eyes +by everyone. We ate lettuce and radishes, picked +fresh from the garden beds where they had been +sown by the captain's own hands, and we found +Ageetuk and Mollie to be quite famous cooks. +Nothing so delicious as their salads (for the French +cooks had long ago gone, the hotel management +being changed, and Mollie had a nice little kitchen +of her own), and with fresh salmon trout, wild fowl, +fresh meats and vegetables, we made up for many +months of winter dieting.</p> + +<p>All this time I longed to get away. I was going +each day to the hill-top to watch for the steamers<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_377" id="Page_377">[Pg 377]</a></span> +which would bring the letters for which I waited. +Affairs connected with my gold claims were, with +much anxiety and trouble, arranged as well as possible, +and when I boarded the steamer, I would +carry with me, at least, three deeds to as many +claims, with a fair prospect of others; but I could +not decide to remain another winter. I was determined +to go to St. Michael, up the Yukon to +Dawson, and "outside," and laid my plans accordingly. +Letters from my father and brother in Dawson +had been received.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="i398" id="i398"></a> +<a href="images/398.jpg"><img src="images/398t.jpg" width="400" height="226" alt="" title="" /></a> +CLAIM ON BONANZA CREEK.</div> + +<p>How my heart ached when I thought of leaving +the little sick girl and Charlie, the latter now grown +wilful, but still so bright and pretty. I wanted +to take both with me, but, no, I could not.</p> + +<p>The little girl's work was not ended. Hers is a +wonderful mission, and she is surely about to fulfill +it. Born as she was in a rough mining camp +at the foot of the barren hills, she was given the +Eskimo name of Yahkuk, meaning a little hill, +and she, like an oasis in a desert place, is left here +to cheer, love, and help others.</p> + +<p>Many times I have seen evidence of the sweet +and gentle influences going out from the life of +little Yahkuk as she lies upon her cot of pain. A +tall, brown miner enters the living room, goes to +the little bed by the window, speaks softly, and, +bending over the tiny girl, kisses her. Then her +big, black eyes glance brightly into blue ones +looking down from above, full red lips part in a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_378" id="Page_378">[Pg 378]</a></span> +cordial smile, while the one solitary dimple in the +smooth, round cheek pricks its way still deeper, +and small arms go up around his neck. When the +man turns, his face wears a soft and tender expression +as though he were looking at some beautiful +sight far away, and, perhaps, he is. God +grant that the sweet memory of that little child's +kiss may be so lasting that all their lives, he and +others, may be purer and better men.</p> + +<p>When August came I sailed away. The "Dora" +had entered the bay in the morning and found my +trunk packed and waiting; it was then only the +work of a little time to make ready to leave. To +my good missionary friends I had already said +good-bye, and the captain and Mollie were kindly +regretful. With tears in my eyes, but with real +pain in my heart I bade Jennie good-bye, and +stepped into the little boat which was to carry me +to the "Dora."</p> + +<p>Farewell, then, to Chinik, the home of the north +wind and blizzard. Farewell to the ice fields of +Golovin, so tardy in leaving in summer, and to +Keechawik and Chinik, whose clear rushing waters +so cheered us in spring time. Farewell to the +moss-covered hills and paths thickly bordered with +blossoms. Farewell to my white-faced friends, and +to the dark-skinned ones, "Beoqua."</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_379" id="Page_379">[Pg 379]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVII" id="CHAPTER_XXVII"></a>CHAPTER XXVII.</h2> + +<h3>GOING OUTSIDE.</h3> + +<div class="cpoem"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Do I sleep? Do I dream?<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Do I wonder and doubt?<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Are things what they seem?<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Or are visions about?"<br /></span> +</div></div></div> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 56px;"> +<img src="images/di.png" width="56" height="150" alt="I" title="I" /> +</div> +<p class="firstp"> was now actually on my way home. +It was not a dream, for here I was on +board the snug little ocean steamer +"Dora," belonging to the Alaska +Commercial Company, and I was on +my way to St. Michael and Dawson. +For ocean travel our steamer was a +perfect one in all its appointments, being +staunch and reliable, with accommodating +officers. After taking a last +look at Chinik, I went to my stateroom. Only one +stop was made before we reached St. Michael, that +being at Port Denbeigh, a new mining camp where +for some hours freight was unloaded. In about +twenty-two hours from the time we left Chinik we +were in St. Michael harbor, climbing down upon +a covered barge which took us ashore.</p> + +<p>It was nearly two years since I had first landed +at this dock,—then in a snow storm, now in the +rain,—then with my brother, now alone. Not at +all like Nome is this quiet little hamlet of St.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_380" id="Page_380">[Pg 380]</a></span> +Michael by the sea. Neither saloons nor disorderly +places are allowed upon the island. What was formerly +a canteen for soldiers was now a small but +tidy restaurant, where I ate a good dinner of beef-steak +with an appetite allowable in Alaska.</p> + +<p>Upon the streets and about the barracks were +many boys in blue, while the hotel parlors swarmed +at dinner time with officers and their wives and +daughters, all richly and fashionably attired. At +the parlor piano two ladies performed a duet, while +the silken skirts of others rustled in an aristocratic +manner over the thick carpet, and gentlemen in +dress suits and gold-laced uniforms gracefully +posed and chatted.</p> + +<p>For my own part, a little homesick feeling had +to be resolutely put down as I pulled on my old +rain coat, and with umbrella and handbag trudged +out in the darkness and rain to look for my baggage. +I had already secured my transportation at +the steamship office, where, at the hands of the +kindly manager of the Alaska Commercial Company's +affairs in this country I had received the +most courteous treatment I could desire. With +little delay I found my trunk and went on board the +Yukon steamer T. C. Power.</p> + +<p>Some months before a consolidation of the three +largest transportation companies in Alaska had +been effected, including the Alaska Commercial +Company, and I was now traveling with the latter +under the name of the Northern Commercial Company,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_381" id="Page_381">[Pg 381]</a></span> +but I felt a security like that of being in +charge of an old and trustworthy friend, and was +quite content.</p> + +<p>I had a long journey before me. We should +reach Dawson in fourteen days unless we met with +delays, but a fast rising wind warned us that we +might encounter something of the sort where we +were, and we did. For two days and nights our +steamer lay under the lee of the island, not daring +to venture out in the teeth of the gale which buffeted +us. Straining, creaking, swaying, first one +way and then the other, we lay waiting for the +storm to abate. No river steamer with stern wheel +and of shallow draught, could safely weather the +rough sea for sixty miles to the Yukon's mouth, +and we tried to be patient.</p> + +<p>Early on the morning of the third day we started, +and for twelve hours we ploughed our way through +the waters with bow now deep in the trough of the +sea, now lifted high in mid-air, to be met the next +moment by an uprising roller, which, with a boom +and a jar, sent a quiver through the whole vessel.</p> + +<p>When at last the Yukon was reached, another +obstacle appeared and we stuck fast on a sand bar. +Soon two other steamers lay alongside, waiting, as +did we, for a high tide to float us.</p> + +<p>By night we lay in a dead calm. Indians in +canoes came with fish and curios to sell, and we +watched the lights of the other steamers.</p> + +<p>When the high tide came, we floated off the bar,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_382" id="Page_382">[Pg 382]</a></span> +but the scene was one of dull monotony, and it was +not until the day following that we came into the +hill country, and I was permitted to again see the +dear trees I loved so well, not one of which I had +seen since leaving California.</p> + +<p>At Anvik there came on board a little missionary +teacher bound for Philadelphia, who had spent +seven years with the natives in this Episcopal Mission +without a vacation, and her stories were interesting +in the extreme.</p> + +<p>Our days were uneventful. A broken stern +wheel, enforced rests upon sand bars, frequent +stops at wood yards with a few moments run upon +shore in which to gather autumn leaves, and get a +sniff of the woods, this was our life upon the Yukon +steamer for many days. After a while the nights +grew too dark for safe progress, and the boat was +tied up until daylight.</p> + +<p>Russian Mission, Tanana, Rampart, Fort Yukon +and the Flats were passed, and the days wore +tediously on. We were literally worming our way +up stream, with low water and dark nights to contend +with, but a second summer was upon us with +warm, bright sunshine, and the hills were brilliantly +colored.</p> + +<p>One morning we approached the towering +Roquett Rock, so named by Lieutenant Frederick +Schwatka in his explorations down the Yukon +years before, and connected with which is an Indian +legend of some interest.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_383" id="Page_383">[Pg 383]</a></span></p> + +<p>This immense rock (so the story runs) once +formed a part of the western shore of the Yukon, +and was one of a pair of towering cliffs of about +the same size, and with similar characteristics. Here +the two huge cliffs lived for many geological periods +in wedded bliss as man and wife, until finally +family dissensions invaded the rocky household, +and ended by the stony-hearted husband kicking +his wrangling wife into the distant plain, and +changing the course of the great river so that it +flowed between them, to emphasize the perpetual +divorce. The cliff and the rock are still known as +"the old man" and "the old woman," the latter +standing in isolation upon a low, flat island with the +muddy Yukon flowing on both sides.</p> + +<p>At this time of the year the days in Alaska grow +perceptibly shorter, and we were not surprised to +find dusky twilight at five in the afternoon, and to +notice the eerie loneliness of the dark, sweet scented +woods a few hours later, when the steamer lay +tied to the river's bank.</p> + +<p>One night after dinner a number of passengers +sat idly about in the saloon of our steamer. Many +had grown tired of cards, or had lost their money, +and, finding themselves pitted against more lucky +players, had called a halt and looked for other occupation. +Miners lounged about, chatting of the +gold mines, their summer's work and experiences. +Big Curly and his little black-eyed wife listened +attentively for a time.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_384" id="Page_384">[Pg 384]</a></span></p> + +<p>The old miner was a born story teller, and knew +a good yarn when he heard it. The boat was tied +up for the night, and all was quiet around us. It +was the time and place for a story.</p> + +<p>At last Big Curly hitched his chair out farther +from the wall, and placed his feet comfortably upon +the rungs; then, shifting his tobacco from one +cheek to the other, he asked if any one present had +heard the story of Nelson and the ghost. No one +had heard it, and, after some coaxing, this is the +tale he told.</p> + + +<h4>The Ghost of Forty Mile.</h4> + +<p>Alaska has long smiled over old Indian legends, +but Yukon men are still puzzling over the nocturnal +rambles of the ghost of a murdered man in +the Forty Mile District. Following the excitement +of the discovery of Bonanza Bar and the sensational +riches of Franklin Gulch came the murder of +an old Frenchman named La Salle. Tanana Indians +committed the crime in 1886. They crossed +the mountains to Forty Mile, and killed La Salle +in his cabin at the mouth of O'Brian Creek. With +axes and bludgeons the old Frenchman's head +was crushed beyond recognition.</p> + +<p>Three months later the snow lay thick upon the +ground. Upon the branches of trees it persistently +hung, each added layer clinging tenaciously because +there was no breath of wind to send it to the +ground. Occasionally a dead twig, weighted too<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_385" id="Page_385">[Pg 385]</a></span> +heavily by the increasing fall of snow, broke suddenly +and dropped noiselessly into a bed of feathery +flakes, thus joining its sleeping companions, the +leaves.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 232px;"><a name="i407" id="i407"></a> +<a href="images/407.jpg"><img src="images/407t.jpg" width="232" height="400" alt="" title="" /></a> +ON BONANZA CREEK.</div> + + + +<p>It was in January that two men might have been +seen following their dog-teams down a frozen +stream emptying into Forty Mile River. They +wished to reach the mouth of the creek before they +halted for the night. They had heard of a cabin in +which they planned to spend the night, although it +was a deserted one, and they were almost at the +desired point.</p> + +<p>The men were Swedes. They were strong and +hardy fellows, and although frost covered their +clothing and hung in icicles about their faces, they +ran contentedly behind the dog-teams in the semi-darkness, +as only the snow-light remained.</p> + +<p>"Hello!" called out Swanson finally to his companion. +"Is that the place, do you think?" pointing +to the dim shape of a log cabin a little ahead.</p> + +<p>"Guess it is, but we'll find out. I'm nearly +starved, and must stop soon, any way," said Nelson +decidedly. "It's no use for us to travel further tonight."</p> + +<p>"So I think," was the reply, as the dogs halted +before the door, and the men entered the cabin. +Here they found a good-sized room, containing +one window. There was evidently a room on the +other side, but with no connecting door, the two<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_386" id="Page_386">[Pg 386]</a></span> +cabins having been built together to save laying +one wall.</p> + +<p>"This is good enough for me, and much warmer +than a tent—we'll stay here till morning, and take +the dogs inside," said kind-hearted Nelson, already +unhitching the dogs from a sled.</p> + +<p>Swanson did the same. The next moment their +small store was carried into the cabin, wood was +collected, and a cheery fire soon roared up the +chimney.</p> + +<p>After the men had eaten their supper and the +dogs had been fed, pipes were brought out; and, +stretching themselves upon their fur sleeping bags +before the fire, the miners smoked and chatted +while resting their weary limbs.</p> + +<p>Suddenly, in the midnight stillness they heard a +strange noise in the other part of the cabin. Some +one was moaning and crying for help. There was +no mistaking the sound, and both men were wide +awake and intently listening.</p> + +<p>It was the cry of some one in distress. The +sounds grew more blood curdling. Nelson, unable +to restrain himself longer, ran outside to investigate. +Going to the window he looked inside. The +sight he beheld congealed his blood, and fastened +him to the spot as in a trance. This was the image +of a man surrounded by a cloud of white, mist-like +phosphorescent light, a deep scar standing out +like a bleeding gash down the side of the head. +Then the forgotten story of the murdered La Salle<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_387" id="Page_387">[Pg 387]</a></span> +came to his mind, and for several minutes he was +chained to the spot by the terror of the spectacle.</p> + +<p>The apparition was half lying upon the floor, +with arm uplifted, as if warding off a blow from +some deadly instrument. Finally, in the desperation +of his terror, Nelson called his partner to +come to his assistance. Upon the approach of his +companion he summoned enough courage to step +to the door at the other end of the cabin, and try +to open it. It was held fast by some superhuman +agency, which allowed the door to be only partly +opened.</p> + +<p>Swanson, at sight of the ghostly visitor, was not +so badly overcome as his friend, and having an inquisitive +turn of mind, wished to find if the apparition +really existed. He called out, demanding to +be told who was there, but no answer came.</p> + +<p>Still the mysterious, unearthly noises came +through the cabin door. No soughing of the wind +could make such sounds had a tempest been blowing, +but a deathly stillness prevailed, and no breath +of air stirred.</p> + +<p>Then it was that Swanson gathered all that was +left of his fast disappearing courage, and said: "In +the name of the Father, Son and Holy Spirit, are +you demon, man or ghost?"</p> + +<p>Suddenly the door opened and in the uncertain, +misty light the apparition raised its hands to the +stars as if in prayer, then it grew dark and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_388" id="Page_388">[Pg 388]</a></span> +ghostly visitor vanished as if the earth had engulfed +it forever.</p> + +<p>While turning this tale over in mind later, I came +to the conclusion, which seems a reasonable one, +that some fortunate miner had, in all probability, +hidden an amount of golden treasure in or about +the cabin on the creek, and wishing to keep others +away, had circulated the ghost story with good +effect.</p> + +<p>When Eagle City was reached I telegraphed my +brother to meet me at the steamer's dock in Dawson, +and my message was sent by one of Uncle +Sam's boys in blue in charge of the office.</p> + +<p>The town had grown considerably in the two +years since I visited it, and now boasted new government +buildings, officer's quarters, and a Presbyterian +church, besides new stores and shops.</p> + +<p>After Cudahy and Forty Mile, came Dawson, and +we steamed up to the city's dock in the morning +fog, and were met by the usual multitude of people, +I having been seventeen days out from Golovin +Bay. There, among others, waited my brother +and his little son, and my joy at meeting them was +great. Landing, it was only a walk of a few minutes +to my kind old father, and my brother's wife +was not far away.</p> + +<p>I was now practically at home, for home is +where our dear ones are, and surroundings are +matters of small moment.</p> + +<p>Three happy weeks followed, I went everywhere<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_389" id="Page_389">[Pg 389]</a></span> +and noted well the improvements in the camp since +I last saw it. It was now a cleaner town every +way, with better order, good roads and bridges, +new government buildings, post-office and fine +large schoolhouse. New frame churches replaced +the old log ones in most cases. There was the governor's +new palatial residence which would never +be graced by the presence of its mistress as she +and her babe had gone down to death a few weeks +before in the Islander disaster in Lynn Canal; and +there was the same steady stream of gold from the +wondrous Klondyke Creeks, which I was now determined +to visit.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 337px;"><a name="i412" id="i412"></a> +<a href="images/412.jpg"><img src="images/412t.jpg" width="337" height="400" alt="" title="" /></a> +SKAGWAY RIVER, FROM THE TRAIN.</div> + +<p>One bright, warm day, taking the hand of the +small boy of the family, my sister and I started for +Bonanza Creek. We were bound for the house of +a friend who had invited us, and we would remain +over night, as the distance was five miles. My +kodak and three big red apples weighed little in +our hands, and we turned toward the Klondyke +River in high spirits.</p> + +<p>For a mile the road was bordered with log +cabins on the hillside, with the famous little river +flowing on the other. We crossed the fine Ogilvie +Bridge, and soon found ourselves upon Bonanza +Creek, the stream which, with the Eldorado, had +given to the world perhaps the major part of +golden Klondyke treasure up to this date. Following +the trail by a short cut we crossed shaky foot +bridges, rested upon logs along the trail, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_390" id="Page_390">[Pg 390]</a></span> +picked our way over boggy spots until our limbs +were weary.</p> + +<p>Everywhere there were evidences of the industry +of the miners, but the claims and cabins looked deserted. +Only in a few instances were men at work +near the mouth of the creek. Many people were +going to and from Dawson, and bicycles and +wagons were numerous.</p> + +<p>When we reached our destination we had walked +five miles in the hot sunshine, and were hungry +and warm, but a warm welcome from Mr. and Mrs. +M., as well as a good dinner, awaited us.</p> + +<p>After resting a while we were shown around the +premises. Three log cabins were being built in a +row upon the hillside, the one finished being already +occupied by the M. family. Tunnels were +being made in the mountain by Mr. M., as well as +other claim owners near by, and across the gulch +mining operations were in full blast. On the M. +claim preparations were being made for winter +work, and it was expected that a valuable dump +would be taken out before spring. For three hundred +feet one tunnel entered the mountain back of +the cabins, and we were invited to go into it.</p> + +<p>Putting on our warmest wraps, with candles in +hand, we followed our guide, the proprietor, for +some distance. It was like walking in a refrigerator, +for the walls and floor of the tunnel were +solidly frozen and sparkled with ice. Whether the +bright specks we saw were always frost, we did not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_391" id="Page_391">[Pg 391]</a></span> +enquire, etiquette forbidding too much curiosity, +but from the satisfied nods and smiles we understood +that it was a good claim, though only recently +purchased by Mr. M., a handful of pudgy +gold nuggets being shown us which fairly made +our eyes water (because they did not belong to us).</p> + +<p>Here we lodged all night, enjoying a graphophone +entertainment in the evening. The next +morning my kodak was brought out, and before +leaving for home I had several views to carry with +me.</p> + +<p>Our walk back to Dawson was much easier than +the one out to the claim.</p> + +<p>From this on, we made ready to leave Dawson +for Seattle, and were soon upon our way. Again +I was forced to say good-bye to my father and +brother, though they would follow us a month +later, and together, my sister and I, stood with the +little boy on the deck of the steamer, waving our +good-byes.</p> + +<p>We now traveled in luxury. We occupied a large +and elegant stateroom, ate first-class meals, and +had nothing to do but enjoy ourselves. To change +from steamer to steam cars at White Horse, +which was now a good mining town, was the work +of an hour's time, while a day's ride to Bennett and +over the White Pass to Skagway was a real +pleasure.</p> + +<p>We found the quiet little port of Skagway +swarming with people rushing for the steamers,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_392" id="Page_392">[Pg 392]</a></span> +and as if to give us variety we had considerable +difficulty in finding our trunks in the custom's +house, and in getting upon the steamer in the darkness +of the late evening; but at last it was all successfully +accomplished, and we took our last look +at Skagway.</p> + +<p>Eleven days after leaving Dawson we reached +our journey's end, and landed in Seattle, our home +coming being a source of delight to our dear waiting +ones, as well as to ourselves; our safe arrival +being another positive proof of the mercy and +goodness of God.</p> + +<p> </p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 150px;"> +<img src="images/392.png" width="150" height="75" alt="Decoration" title="" /> +</div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's A Woman who went to Alaska, by May Kellogg Sullivan + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A WOMAN WHO WENT TO ALASKA *** + +***** This file should be named 22409-h.htm or 22409-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/2/4/0/22409/ + +Produced by Malcolm Farmer, Stephen Blundell and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Library of Congress) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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