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diff --git a/21461.txt b/21461.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1aa9969 --- /dev/null +++ b/21461.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8159 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Fred Markham in Russia, by W. H. G. Kingston + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Fred Markham in Russia + The Boy Travellers in the Land of the Czar + +Author: W. H. G. Kingston + +Illustrator: R. T. Landells + +Release Date: May 15, 2007 [EBook #21461] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FRED MARKHAM IN RUSSIA *** + + + + +Produced by Nick Hodson of London, England + + + + +Fred Markham in Russia; or, The Boy Travellers in the Land of the Czar, +by W H G Kingston. + +________________________________________________________________________ + +Fred and his brother have an adult friend, Cousin Giles, who is a naval +officer who had served under the boys' father, before injury had +compelled his retirement. One day Cousin Giles asks the boys to come +with him on a visit to Russia. This was 1856. The boys' mother is glad +they are not going too far, such as to the Antipodes. + +The little party arrive in Russia after some problems with their sea +voyage. They tour Saint Petersburg, and then travel a little wider. +Meeting various people with a knowledge of the land and its customs, +they get some good first-hand information about Russia. Some of their +new friends tell long stories about things that have happened to them, +or to their own friends, and by this device we learn much more about +Russia and its people, and their lives, often very difficult, under the +Czars. + +And the boys have some thrills of their own, for instance during an +encounter with wolves. + +Eventually it is time to return home, and the last two chapters are +letters from Fred to his mother, recounting their adventures during the +last few days of their holiday. But Fred must have been a remarkably +well-educated boy to write in such an adult style! + +This book was written just after a time when it had become possible to +travel to Russia. Many people had availed themselves of this chance, +and had written of their journeys. Kingston uses the device of telling +us about Russia as seen by the two boys, embellished with the adventures +of some of the friends they make. + +________________________________________________________________________ + +FRED MARKHAM IN RUSSIA; OR, THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN THE LAND OF THE CZAR, +BY W H G KINGSTON. + + + +CHAPTER ONE. + + A Trip to Russia proposed--Cousin Giles and his History--Preparations + for the Voyage--Journey to Hull--The Steamer described--The Voyage + commenced--A Fog at Sea. + +"Thank you, thank you; it will be very delightful," said Fred Markham. + +"It will be jolly, that it will!" exclaimed his younger brother Harry; +and home they ran as fast as their legs could carry them to find their +father and mother. + +"Oh, father, father!--mother, mother!--may we go? May we go?" they +exclaimed in a breath together. "Cousin Giles has asked us, and he says +that he will take very good care of us, and that he is not joking; that +he is in real earnest, and that, if you will give us leave to go, he +wishes to set off immediately." + +"But you have not told us where you wish to go to," said Captain +Markham. "If it should chance to be to Timbuctoo, to the Sandwich +Islands, or to the antipodes, I fear that I must refuse your request." + +"Even should Cousin Giles be answerable for your safe return, I could +not part with you for so long a time as would be required to go to +either of those regions of the world," added their mother, smiling. + +"But it is not to Timbuctoo, nor to the Sandwich Islands, nor to any +place near so far off that Cousin Giles wants to take us," replied Fred +eagerly. "It is only to Russia, and that is no distance at all, he +says." + +"Only to Russia!" exclaimed Captain Markham, with an emphasis on the +only. "That country used to be thought a long way off from England in +my younger days; but railways and steamers have worked a great change in +our notions of distances. We must, however, hear what Cousin Giles has +to say before we decide on the subject." + +The lads had not to endure their uncertainty very long before Cousin +Giles made his appearance, his somewhat weather-beaten countenance +beaming with a glow of benevolence and vivacity which seldom forsook it. +Now it must be understood that Cousin Giles was not really the young +Markhams' cousin, any more than he was that of several other families in +the county who called him by the same affectionate name. He was a +lieutenant in the navy, but, having received a severe wound in battle, +which incapacitated him, he considered, from doing his duty properly, he +retired from the service, though he ultimately recovered sufficiently to +travel about without inconvenience. As in the course of his +professional career he had visited the sea-coasts of nearly every part +of the world, besides taking journeys inland from them, while he made +his observations on what he saw, he possessed a large fund of +information. What was also of great consequence, he had a considerable +talent for describing what he had seen. Besides possessing these +qualifications, being the life and spirit of every juvenile party, and +the promoter of all sports and pastimes in-doors and out of doors, he +was a welcome guest, both, with old and young, at every friend's house +which he could find time to visit. More than all this, he was a +religious, honourable, generous-hearted man. He could not, therefore, +fail to be a most desirable travelling companion for his young friends. +He had been several times to sea with their father, who was himself a +captain in the navy, and who had the greatest confidence in him. + +"What is all this, my dear fellow, the boys are saying about Russia?" +asked Captain Markham as he entered the room. + +"Why, that I have bethought me of paying a visit this summer to the land +of the Czar; that I want companions; that I like young ones, who will +follow my ways better than old ones, who won't; that I enjoy fresh ideas +freshly expressed, and am tired of stale platitudes; in short, if you +will entrust your youngsters to me, I will take charge of them, and +point out what is mostly worth seeing and remembering at the places we +visit." + +"I cannot refuse you, Fairman," replied Captain Markham. "You offer is +a very kind one, and the boys cannot fail to benefit by the excursion." + +"Do not talk about that," said Cousin Giles, interrupting him. "Fred +must undertake to keep a log, and note down all our adventures." + +Fred, though somewhat diffident of his powers of composition, promised +to do his best, and Mrs Markham begged that Harry might keep another +note-book for her especial edification. + +"All I bargain for," she added, "is to have descriptions of scenes +written down as soon as visited, and ideas as soon as they occur." + +"By all means, freshness is what we want," said Cousin Giles. "A short +sketch made on the spot is worth a volume of after-recollections." + +Thus the matter was speedily arranged. Before he left the house, their +kind friend gave the young travellers a list of the things they would +require. He would allow them only a small portmanteau apiece, which +they could carry in their hands. He told them each to take a warm +greatcoat, and a complete suit of waterproof clothing, including boots +and hat. "Thus," said he, "you will be independent of the weather, and +need never be kept in the house, however hard it may rain." He told +them that, although the weather is frequently much hotter during the +summer in Russia than in England, yet that at times it is as rainy, and +cold, and variable as at that season of the year at home. Their Bibles, +a history of Russia, and a volume of travels in that country were the +only books he would let them take, advising them thoroughly to master +the contents of the history and travels before they reached Saint +Petersburg. He had got, he said, a good map of Russia, and a chart of +the Baltic, which they were to study; as also a book called, _What to +Observe; or, The Traveller's Remembrancer_, which is not only full of +useful information, but also turns a travellers attention to what is +most worth remarking abroad. Fred Markham was about fifteen; his +brother, a year younger. Both of them were fine, intelligent lads. +Cousin Giles was not far removed from fifty, thin and sinewy, though +strongly built, and not tall, with large hard hands, which gave a warm, +cordial grasp to a friend and a firm one to a rope; his heart was like +them as to size, but a great contrast to them in hardness--a more +thorough-going, honest sailor never existed. + +No merrier party ever left London than the three travellers who started +by the mail train for Hull a few nights after the above conversation. +They put up at the Railway Hotel, which Cousin Giles said reminded him +of a Spanish palace. In the centre is a large court glazed over, with +an ottoman instead of a fountain in the centre, and broad flights of +stairs on either side leading to the upper chambers. The younger +travellers had never before been in so large and comfortable a hotel. +Their first care in the morning was to visit the steamer _Ladoga_, in +which they had taken their passage to Saint Petersburg. She was a +gaily-painted, sharp-built, fast-looking screw. + +"She'll carry us there quickly enough, if at all," muttered Cousin +Giles. "But she's not the craft I should have chosen." + +She had only a small part of her cargo on board, and yet the master +promised to sail on the following morning. The boys were incredulous. + +"Modern cranes, system, and activity will work wonders," said Cousin +Giles; and he was right. + +By nine o'clock the next morning the vessel was ready to sail. They +spent the interim in walking about the docks, full of vessels of all +nations,--sixteen steamers, they heard, ran between Hull and Saint +Petersburg,--in looking at the quaint old houses of the town, and in +visiting the monument raised to Wilberforce,--a lofty pillar, the first +object which greets the mariner as he returns home. At the base is a +simple inscription: "Negro Emancipation, 1832." + +"How far more worthy was he of the pillar than most people who have +monuments raised to them; and yet how he would have despised such an +honour, unless it induces others to labour as he did for the benefit of +their fellow-creatures," remarked Cousin Giles. "Remember, my lads, +this monument, and endeavour to walk in that great man's footsteps." + +A lovely morning found the voyagers on board the _Ladoga_, and, after +much pulling and hauling, clear of the docks, and steaming down the +Humber. + +Cousin Giles face wore an expression of dissatisfaction as he found her +deck crowded with huge, heavy iron machines and bales of cotton. + +"This is nothing; we are often obliged to carry twice as much deck +cargo," said the master. "Competition is so great, we must do +everything to make the vessel pay." + +"Were a heavy gale to spring up, it is your underwriters would have to +pay, I suspect," answered. Cousin Giles. + +"Oh, you don't know what this vessel would go through," replied the +young master. + +"Humph!" remarked the old lieutenant; "I know where she would go to if +you did not heave all this deck lumber overboard." + +"I presume you have been to sea before?" said the master. + +"At times," answered Cousin Giles quietly. + +England sends large quantities of machinery of all sorts to Russia. The +cotton had come from America to Liverpool, had been thence sent across +the country by railway to Hull, and was going to supply numerous +manufactories of cotton goods which have been established in Russia, and +fostered by high protective duties. They are chiefly managed by +Englishmen, and the foremen are mostly English or German. Manual labour +is cheaper than in England, as is the expense of erecting the buildings; +but, as all other items cost much more, the Russians have to pay very +dearly for the cotton goods they use. Even with the high duties imposed +on them, they can buy English manufactures cheaper than their own. + +In addition to the cargo on deck, there were twelve fine horses which an +English groom was taking over for a Russian nobleman, who was to figure +at the approaching coronation of the Emperor. The Russians set great +value on English horses, and employ a considerable number of English +grooms, many of whom raise themselves to respectable situations, as had +the man who had charge of the horses in question. + +There were several other passengers, some of whom were English merchants +who had resided in Russia for many years, and from them the friends +gained a considerable amount of valuable information. This Cousin Giles +had particularly the art of eliciting from his companions, and Fred and +Harry had abundance to do in noting it down. The cabins and saloon were +both comfortable and handsome. The latter was lined with mahogany, had +gilt mouldings, and the sofas which surrounded it were covered with +cool, clean, antibilious-looking chintz, while in the centre there was a +sociable table, with a skylight overhead. Everything, also, was +provided by the young master to conduce to the comfort of his +passengers. + +On the afternoon of the day they sailed, the sky looked wildish, and the +master prognosticated either wind or heavy rain. A thunder-storm played +at a distance round the ship; the lightning flashed vividly, but +scarcely a mutter of the clouds' artillery was heard; some heavy showers +fell, then the weather cleared up. The stars shone forth brightly from +the clear sky, and the waning moon arose and shed her silvery light on +the calm water, over which the breeze played with just sufficient +strength to crisp it into silvery wavelets. It was a night for +meditation and prayer. Unhappy is the state of man who can look forth +from the deck of a ship on such a scene and not feel gratitude to the +Framer of the magnificent firmament above him,--whom it does not make +more meditative, more prayerful, than his wont,--whom it does not cause +to think of eternity. + +The next day a bright silvery fog hung over the sea, yet so dense that +no eye could pierce the bowsprit's length through it. The engines were +therefore put at half their power, yet even then the vessel went nearly +seven knots through the water. + +The lads were delighted with the smooth, easy way in which the vessel +glided on. They remarked it to Cousin Giles. + +"You think it is very pleasant, because you see no danger, my dear +boys," he answered. "Much the same aspect does vice bear to the young, +while they shrink with fear from the storm of adversity. Now, `a wise +seaman dreads a calm near a coast where there are currents, and a fog +far more than heavy gales of wind in the open ocean.' Put that down in +your log,--it is worth remembering, as the lesson you have learned from +a calm and a fog." + + + +CHAPTER TWO. + + Cousin Giles finds an old Shipmate--Tom Puffing's Account of the Wreck + of the _Victoria_--Miraculous Escape of Part of the Crew--God's + merciful Providence displayed--Cousin Giles converses with the Crew-- + First Sight of Denmark, Elsinore, and its Castle--View of Copenhagen-- + Description of the Battle and its Cause--Sunday Service on board + Ship--Voyage up the Baltic--The Gulf of Finland--Cronstadt and its + Batteries--Why the British did not take them--The Czar's Mode of + Manning a Ship in a Hurry--The Russian Fleet--Leave their Steamer and + proceed towards Saint Petersburg. + +Cousin Giles soon found his way forward, over the bales of cotton and +piles of hay, followed by Fred and Harry, and entered into conversation +with the crew. He had not been long there when an old weather-beaten +seaman put his head up the fore hatchway. "Ah! Tom Pulling. I thought +that I had caught sight of the face of an old shipmate," exclaimed +Cousin Giles, stretching out his hand. "How fares it with you?" + +The old man's countenance brightened as he returned the grasp warmly. + +"Is it you, indeed? I am glad to see you--that I am," he answered. +"I've a good berth now, though I've had knocking about enough since I +sailed with you last in the _Juno_. I was cast away in these very parts +some time back, and never had a narrower chance of losing my life, so to +speak." + +Cousin Giles asked old Tom how this had happened. The other seamen who +were not on duty drew near to listen to the old man's oft-spun yarn, and +our young friends stood by, eager to hear what he had got to say. + +"Why, you see, sir," he replied, "after I was discharged from the old +_Melampus_, I thought I'd try if a short-voyage steamer would suit me +better than a man-of-war, seeing that I'd got a wife and family to look +after; so I shipped on board the _Victoria_ steamer, running from the +port of Hull to Saint Petersburg. It was our last voyage that year. +About the 6th of November, I think, we left the Humber; but we hoped to +get to Cronstadt and away again before the ice set in. The weather was +as fair as could be wished for, and with smooth water; so we all made up +our minds that we were going to have a quick run of it. Howsomever, the +wind breezed up a little on the second day, and by nightfall it blew +pretty freshish, with a heavyish sea on. We had much the same sort of +weather on the third day, and at night it came on so thick and dark that +we could not see our hands held out before us. Still all seemed going +on well. We supposed that we were steering a course through the +Skaggerack, with a good offing from the land, when, just about the +middle of the first watch, as the passengers were in the cabin, maybe +thinking of turning in to their warm beds all snug, and talking of what +they would do next day at Copenhagen, where we were to touch, without an +instant's warning--bang! Crash!--loud shrieks and cries of terror were +heard, the ship quivered from stem to stern as if her last moment was +come. It was not far off, either; the sea came roaring up abaft and +made a clean sweep over her. She had struck heavily on a rock of some +sort, that was certain; but where we were, or how it had happened, no +one could tell. Every one was running here and there, crying for help, +when there was no one to help them; some took to praying, some to +blaspheming; terror seemed to have taken away their senses. I did think +that all of us had seen the sun rise for the last time, for it was too +dark by far to allow us to try and help ourselves; and, from the way the +sea kept striking the ship, I knew full well she could not long hold +together. + +"Well, Mr Fairman, I'm not ashamed to say I prayed as I never prayed +before; and, you'll believe me, sir, I felt a comfort and an assurance +of my Maker's protection which also I had never felt before. As my ears +caught the sound of the dreadful oaths of the blasphemers, I thought of +the Day of Judgment. When that awful time comes, and the world breaks +up like the ship, how will such men and many others, amid the clouds and +thick darkness which will surround them, be able to pray? No; they'll +blaspheme on, as they are doing now, to the end. The captain, to do him +but justice, behaved nobly. He did his best to keep order and +discipline on board. He told the people that, if they would but remain +by the ship, they all might be saved. He could not say, like Saint +Paul, they would be saved. Few listened to him; some, however, stayed +by his side and promised to support him. They had been on their knees +asking support for themselves; whence only it can come, you know, sir. +Others, on the contrary, got hold of one of the boats, and began to +lower her into the water. The captain prayed and begged of them to +desist, but they would not hearken to him. There were some of the crew +and some of the passengers, and when he tried to prevent them they +threatened to heave him overboard. At last they got the boat into the +water, and eight of them jumped into her and shoved off from the ship's +side. In an instant, as he had told them it would be, the boat was +capsized, and all hands were thrown into the raging sea. One poor +wretch had on a life-preserver--he thought, at all events, that he was +all safe, and that he could not drown; the rest had nothing to float +them. For half a minute their cries were heard, and then they sank +nearly all together, and his voice alone struck our ears, shrieking out +for help, but no help could be given him. He was striking out for the +ship, I judged; sometimes by his voice he seemed to have got nearer, but +that might have been my fancy; then a sea came rolling by, and drove him +farther off again. It was very dreadful to hear that poor dying wretch, +and not be able to help him. He was a strong man, and for long +struggled on; nearly an hour perhaps passed, but his voice grew fainter +and fainter, and at last was no longer heard. + +"All this time the ship was striking heavily, hammering away on the rock +as if she was pile-driving. We burned all the blue lights we had on +board, in the hopes of drawing the attention of some fishermen or other +passing craft; but they only enabled those on board to see the horrors +of our situation. Nearly four hours had thus passed, when a shout from +the cook, who said he saw a signal, made us fancy help was coming to us; +but in another minute we found that it was only the moon rising through +a gap in the clouds. We all earnestly longed for morning, for till +daylight came we could do nothing. The moon only served to show us more +clearly the horrors of our situation. Piece after piece of the vessel +was washed away, but still all those who remained round the captain were +safe. At last there was a faint light in the east; it grew stronger and +stronger, and there was twilight enough to let us see to the distance of +a mile or two. About a mile off appeared a rock high enough out of the +water to serve us as a refuge. The captain at once ordered a boat to be +lowered, and all the women and children to be put into her, with five +men to pull her to the rock. It was a work of no little danger to the +poor creatures, but we at last got them all safe off, and with many a +prayer watched them till they reached the rock. We had another boat, +and there were fourteen of us remaining on the wreck. We all got into +her, but we instantly saw that thus crowded she would be swamped before +she could reach the shore. `Never mind, my fine fellows, I'll stay by +the wreck!' exclaimed the captain, jumping on board again. `Who'll +follow me?' + +"`I'll stay by you, captain,' said I; and five others said the same. +The rest shoved off, and reached the rock in safety, but the sea was too +high to allow the boat to return. Then we seven souls were left on the +wreck, which was every moment breaking up beneath our feet. The +after-part of the vessel was soon completely gone--then we retreated +forward; then the forecastle--that soon began to break up, and we had to +hold on amidships. We tried to keep up each other's spirits by telling +how seamen had often been preserved in worse situations even than ours, +and most of us did not cease to pray to God to save us. The sea, after +we returned on board the wreck, got up even more than before. + +"At last a sea, still heavier than the rest, came rolling towards us. +`Hold on! Hold on, my lads, for your lives!' shouted our brave captain; +but in a minute there was scarcely anything to hold on to. He himself +was carried away some fathoms from the wreck. Our situation was bad +enough, but it did not make us forget our captain. We would have done +anything to help him, but there was not a rope we could lay hold of to +heave to him. By God's mercy he had on a life-belt, and he got hold of +a piece of plank. Thus he kept afloat, and, working away with his feet, +he was able once more to reach the wreck. His return--it seemed almost +to life--cheered us up not a little. No long time, however, passed +before another sea struck the fragments to which we clung, knocking them +all to pieces, and sending us to float alone on the waves. One part +only of the wreck remained above the water--it was the boiler. We all +swam back to it, and clung on as well as we could; but we saw that, what +with the cold and the sea, which kept breaking over us, we should soon +be washed off again. `If we could but get inside the boiler, we might +find some shelter,' said the captain; but, try all we could, we could +not make a hole big enough to get through. We were almost in despair. +A fourth great sea came tumbling in on us. We all thought that it would +prove our destruction; so did the captain. `Good-bye, my lads, +good-bye!' he exclaimed. `God have mercy on us all!' On came the +breaker, and for a moment we were all under it. When it cleared away, +we were still holding on. + +"Directly afterwards the engineer gave a shout of joy. `See what +Providence has sent us!' he cried out, as he held up a large pair of +blacksmith's pincers which that very sea we thought would destroy us had +washed on to the boiler. `God intends us to save our lives,' he added; +for he was a pious man, and always acknowledged whence all blessings +come to us. We set to work manfully with the pincers, and soon forced +off enough of the top of the boiler to let us all creep in. We felt +that it was firmly fixed on the rock, and here we were much more +sheltered than before from the sea. Hunger and cold next began to tell +on us. We had not before had time to feel either. One of our men had +an apple in his pocket. He handed it to the captain. `There, captain,' +said he, `what is sent to one is sent to all. Serve it out, if you +please, among us: if any one has a quid in his pouch, or a bit of +biscuit, let him do the same!' We all felt in our pockets, but could +find nothing to eat; so the captain took the apple, and, cutting it into +seven bits, each took one, and munched away at it as long as it would +stay in our mouths. All the time we were looking out anxiously for a +sail, but nothing could we see but the dark, tumbling, foaming breakers +around us. Not even the rock where our companions had got could we see. +Noon passed, hour after hour crept by after it, the horrors of another +night threatened us, and we began to give way to despair. Some of us +talked of giving up, and dropping into the sea. The captain rebuked the +grumblers sternly. `You heard what the engineer said, my lads: "God +intends to save our lives," and I feel now he was right.' Scarcely had +he spoken when the engineer shouted out, `A sail! A sail!' We all +looked out eagerly. There was a fishing-boat standing towards us. In +half an hour she had hove-to to leeward of the wreck. Her brave crew +lowered their sail and pulled in towards us: but they could not venture +very near, and it was no easy matter to get on board. All we could do +was to wait till the seas washed over us, and then one by one we plunged +in; and they carried us clear of the rocks, which would otherwise have +knocked us to pieces. Thus we all got on board the little craft, and +were carried safely on shore. The same fishing-boat had before taken +off our companions from the rock, and they had then sent her to our +assistance. + +"Now you will like to know how the accident happened without any blame +to the captain, or any one on board? The truth was that we had, as part +of the cargo, a quantity of iron. This had set all our compasses wrong, +making us twenty or thirty miles out of our course at least. I've often +since thought, Mr Fairman, if we hadn't a true compass to steer by like +the Bible, which of us would escape the rocks which lie in our course in +life; and it's my opinion that those who do steer by it never get far +wrong." + +The young travellers thanked old Tom very much for his interesting +narrative, and Cousin Giles spun a long yarn with him afterwards about +old times. Cousin Giles had also a talk with each of the crew, and gave +them some books and tracts, for which they were very thankful. + +All Friday night the lead was kept going, for the master judged that +they ought to have been in the very centre of the Skaggerack passage, +which is very deep; but it told him that the ship was still in shallow +water. The very same circumstance which caused the loss of the +_Victoria_ had happened to them. Their compasses, attracted by some of +the iron in the ship, were not pointing truly. They had reason to be +thankful that the error was discovered in time, or they might have +suffered the same disasters they had lately heard described. When the +fog cleared away, they found that they were off the coast of Jutland, +twenty miles south of where they should have been. In the afternoon +they sighted the Scaw lighthouse, built on a sandy point, with sand +hills, and a ruined church on them--no very interesting object, except +as being the first part they saw of Denmark. + +Sunday morning, at five o'clock, the steward called to them to say that +they were close to Elsinore. They hurried on deck, and found that they +were passing that far-famed castle, where the ghost of Hamlet's father +was wont to walk and tell its tale of horrors to any one it might chance +to meet and had time to stop and listen to it. Seen in the bright glow +of the morning sun, the castle had a pleasing, cheerful aspect, with +nothing of the dark, gloomy, hobgoblin style of architecture about it, +such as Mrs Radcliffe delighted to describe. It stands on a narrow +neck of land a little to the north of the town, and is of a quadrangular +form, with three Moorish-looking towers and a square one of modern style +at the four corners. It is surrounded by a fosse and low ramparts, of a +modern style of fortification. The royal family of Denmark came +occasionally to the castle to enjoy sea-bathing for a few days. The +Sound is here very narrow, the shore of Sweden being not more than three +or foul miles off. It was crowded with shipping, the place serving as a +roadstead for Copenhagen, which is about twenty miles distant. In the +forenoon they came off Copenhagen, but did not touch there. The nearest +point to them was the Trekroner, or Three-crown Battery, as an +artificially-formed island directly in front of the city is called. +This is the point which, in the attack under Nelson, gave the British so +much trouble, and cost so many lives. Beyond it, within a mole, were +seen the masts of some shipping, and behind them arose towers and spires +and public edifices, and trees, and houses of various shapes, springing, +as it seemed, out of the water. + +Cousin Giles gave the lads a description of the battle of Copenhagen, +which was fought on the 2nd of April 1801. The destruction of the +Danish fleet was a sad necessity. The attack was made on our old allies +and natural friends, to prevent their fleet from falling into the power +of Napoleon, who would have employed it against us. The Danes have not +yet forgotten that untoward event. + +For most of the day they steamed on with the shores both of Sweden and +Denmark in sight. The usual morning work of the ship having been got +through, Cousin Giles asked the captain if he ever had service on board. + +"When we have a clergyman," was the answer. + +"How often is that?" + +"Once I took one over; but, to be sure, he was sick, and had to cut it +short." + +"Then, how often are you in port on a Sunday?" + +"Not often in England, and sometimes in foreign parts we are so pressed +for time that we are obliged to be discharging or taking in cargo on a +Sunday." + +"I am sorry to hear that. Sailing-vessels used seldom to be so pressed. +But why do not you hold service for your people at sea, at all events?" +said Cousin Giles. + +"I!--how should such an one as I hold service?" replied the master +simply. "The men are accustomed to hear me swear at them and abuse +them. They would laugh if I proposed to pray with them." + +"Leave off swearing, and take to praying, then, my friend," said Cousin +Giles solemnly. "Ask yourself which is the best of the two." + +"I am afraid I should make but a bad hand at the prayers," said the +master carelessly. + +"Try," answered Cousin Giles earnestly. "But, my friend, if you will +give me leave, I will hold a service on the sacred day of rest, and +perhaps some of the passengers may join us." + +"The passengers may, but I don't think you'll get many of my fellows to +attend your service," was the reply. + +"I will try, at all events, if I have your permission," said Cousin +Giles. + +"Oh, certainly, certainly," replied the master in a somewhat +supercilious tone; but he was not a little puzzled to make out what sort +of man Cousin Giles could be. + +Cousin Giles on this went forward, and spoke to each of the men +separately, in his own peculiar, kind way, and told them that he was +anxious to thank his Maker and theirs for all the mercies they had so +often received, and invited them to join him in that act of devotion in +about an hour's time. + +They all not only willingly but gladly assented to his proposal, and +promised to go aft when they were summoned. Although the master had not +discovered that Cousin Giles was a seaman, they had, and knew him to be +a true man. He then returned aft, and spoke to the passengers in the +same strain, and but very few refused to join the service. Two said +they would think about it; one had an interesting book to finish; and +another asked him if he was a parson, and said he only attended services +held by properly ordained ministers. + +At the appointed hour, to the surprise of the master, every seaman, +engineer, and stoker who was not on duty came up to the wide deck over +the engine, and most of the passengers assembled there likewise. Never +was there a more attentive congregation. Cousin Giles read part of the +Church of England Liturgy, and then spoke to them from the fifteenth +chapter of Saint John's Gospel: "I am the true vine." Those who heard +him said that he explained the subject well, and that what he said went +to their hearts. The reason of this was, that he was deeply in earnest, +and anxious about the souls of his hearers. The master began even to +think that he was a parson in disguise. + +The steamer passed several islands, and on Monday was running up the +Baltic in a perfect calm, the hot sun striking down on her decks, with +its shining brightness dazzling the eyes of the passengers, the numerous +vessels they passed having their canvas hanging idly down against their +masts. + +On Tuesday morning they were at the entrance of the Gulf of Finland, and +in the evening they were passing the island of Nargen, with the town of +Revel, just rising out of the water, seen through their glasses beyond +it on the starboard hand. + +The morning of Wednesday broke cold and grey, but in the forenoon the +sun burst forth and shone brightly; and the sea was rippled over by a +westerly breeze, which increased every hour in strength, and carried +before it numberless vessels of all nations and rigs, though the +galliots of Holland undoubtedly predominated. About noon, in this +numerous company, they passed the lighthouse on the island of Tolbuken, +which was held by the English during the late war, and whence the +British officers with their glasses could discover all that was going on +behind the batteries of Cronstadt. At about half-past one, a gun fired +across the bows of the steamer by the Russian guardship hinted to her +that she must heave-to; which being done, some officers came on board to +examine her papers and the passengers' passports, to drink the master's +wine, or spirits, or bottled ale, and carry away any gunpowder or +fireworks which might be on board. Ahead lay a large Russian fleet of +line-of-battle ships, frigates, steamers, brigs, and schooners, now at +length able to show their noses out of port; while a little way beyond +rose those formidable batteries which had so lately, by their very +appearance, been able to damp the ardour of some of England's naval +chieftains. On the left side was the island of Cronstadt, with its +fortifications, its town with its spires and domes, and its harbour, +capable of sheltering a large man-of-war fleet; and on the right, +opposite to it, were two circular batteries, which looked like huge +white factories rising out of the water; only instead of windows, there +were ports, while enormous guns in lieu of rainspouts crowned their +summits, without even a parapet to hide their carriages. On the +southern part of the chief island was a similar tower. + +Most of the passengers had some favourite plan of their own for taking +the fortress,--especially some commercial travellers, who were loud in +their expressions of scorn at the want of success of Napier and Dundas, +and the sad degeneracy of the British navy. Cousin Giles was much +amused, and advised them to lay their plans before the English +Government, and to offer their services as commanders-in-chief of her +fleets and armies. + +As the vessels steamed on, the travellers had on their left side the +rocky and wood-covered heights of Finland, between which and the island +of Cronstadt there is a narrow but tolerably deep passage. Through this +passage, which was unknown to the Russians themselves, the English +admiral proposed to send up a fleet of gun-boats and small steamers had +the attack on the fortress been resolved on. On the right hand from +this entrance into the Gulf of Finland they had had the province of +Esthonia. They now had that of Saint Petersburg, the shores of which +appeared high and well wooded. They by this time had reached what may +be considered nearly the end of the Gulf of Finland; for, although above +Cronstadt there is still a fine expanse of water, it is generally very +shallow, there being only a narrow and intricate channel, worked by the +strong current of the Neva. + +Among the various craft they passed, they were much amused by the little +Finnish schooners, which went careering on before the breeze, laden +chiefly with firewood, or some other not very valuable cargo, for the +Saint Petersburg markets. They were built of fir, with very little +paint, very few ropes, and had very white canvas. Altogether they had, +as Cousin Giles observed, an exceedingly fresh-water look about them. +The Finns who manned them were, however, hardy fellows, and formed by +far the best seamen on board the Russian men-of-war. The Russians are +not good salt-water sailors; they have no taste for the sea, and are not +likely to obtain it. Peter the Great tried to form a navy. He +succeeded in building ships, but it was quite a different thing when he +tried to find seamen to man them. A gentleman on board told the lads a +story, and they much wished to know if he could vouch for its truth. +The late Emperor Nicholas on some occasion wanted to send a +line-of-battle ship in a hurry to sea. No men were to be found. The +Emperor was indignant that anything should oppose his imperial will. He +stormed and raged; but even to appease his wrath no men could be made to +rise out of the earth. At last his eyes fell on a regiment of dragoons +who were defiling slowly by. + +"Ah!" he exclaimed, as a bright thought struck him, "why should not +those tall fellows make good seamen?" He called the colonel to him. +"Colonel," said he; "order your men to dismount, and do you and your +officers lead them on board that ship, and get her under weigh +immediately. There is no time to be lost. You'll have something to +learn, probably; but that does not matter--it is my will--do it." + +The poor colonel knew that there was no use expostulating. The men were +ordered aloft--cocked hats, jack-boots, and spurs. Up they went, the +upper ones with their dreadful spurs catching those following by eyes, +or noses, or mouths; and the surprising thing was that any got up at +all. There is, however, nothing that a Russian cannot do, in a way, +when put to it. The topsails were at length loosed, the anchor was got +up, and the ship was actually under weigh; but where she went to, or if +she ever went anywhere at all, their friend could not exactly say. + +All this time the steamer was passing among the Russian men-of-war. +Some of them were huge, towering line-of-battle ships, and all of them, +outwardly at least, were in prime order. At length the steamer ran in +past a high white tower between two piers, the screw stopped, she was +hauled alongside a wharf, and the voyage was ended. Instantly she was +filled with men in grey and blue uniforms. They were custom-house +officers, who came professedly to prevent smuggling, but in reality to +collect any fees they could pick up. + +The travellers now heard for the first time the incomprehensible sounds +of the Russian language, while their eyes were amused with the various +and strange costumes of the wild-looking shouting people who surrounded +them. Some of the officers had shaven chins, but most of the people had +long beards, and straggling hair flowing from beneath their caps; but, +unattractive as were their countenances generally, they wore an aspect +of good-nature and simplicity which made amends for their ugliness. + +In a short time a little steamer came alongside the _Ladoga_, into which +the passengers and their luggage were transferred, to be conveyed up to +Saint Petersburg under charge of a party of the militarily-equipped +custom-house officers. The little satellite shoved off from the side of +the big steamer, the master stood on the taffrail with his hat in his +hand, the passengers waved theirs; and thus they bade farewell, most of +them for ever, to the ill-fated _Ladoga_. After leaving the mole, they +passed along the wharves of the Imperial Dockyard, within which were +collected a great number of line-of-battle ships and frigates laid up in +ordinary, which, as Fred said, looked like idle sulky fellows shut up in +a poor-house with nothing to do. + +"Very fine ships," said Cousin Giles; "but without the men to handle +them, in spite of their long guns, they are like dogs with broken legs: +they may bark and howl, and gnash their teeth, but they can do no +further harm. We should not despise Russia, but we need not be +frightened at her." + +Their helmsman, who stood with the tiller between his legs, with his +hands crossed and hid in his "Bosom," was a picture in himself. A low +cap covered a head of shaggy reddish hair, while his thick straggly +beard was of the same hue. His upper man was clothed in a coarse white +jersey, beneath which appeared the tail of a red-striped shirt, while +his widish green cloth trousers were tucked in high leather black boots. +He was a fine big fellow, and had a seaman's air about him, so that he +might have served as a model of a Scandinavian rover ten centuries ago. +There were a number of other, to the young travellers, strange-looking +figures, helmeted, long-cloaked, thick-bearded and moustached beings, +who, with piles of luggage, crowded the decks; and in this numerous +company away they hurried towards the modern capital of the Czars. + + + +CHAPTER THREE. + + Distant View of Saint Petersburg--How it is built--Enter the City of + the Czar--Its Appearance at First Sight--Mount a Drosky--The + Travellers reach their Hotel--Outline Sketch of Saint Petersburg--A + Tour round the City--Its Palaces and Public Buildings. + +"There it is! There it is! There's the city--Saint Petersburg itself!" +exclaimed the young travellers, as, directly ahead, appeared rising out +of the water a line of golden domes, and tall spires and towers, +glittering brightly in the sun, like some magic city of ancient romance. +Conspicuous above all was the superb pile of the Isaac Church, the most +modern sacred edifice in the city, and by far the finest; and near it +was seen the graceful tower of the Admiralty, tapering up like a golden +needle into the blue sky. Soon other buildings--hospitals, and palaces, +and houses, and towers, either not so lofty or farther off--rose to +view; but no land could be discovered on which their bases might rest. +This vast city, they learned, was built by the imperial will of Peter +the Great on a marsh, he hoping to make it a great maritime port. Every +house in it stands on a platform of piles, driven far down into the soft +ground. Before a building can be erected, it is necessary thus to +prepare its foundations, often at an enormous expense. + +The shores of the lake-like expanse along which they were steering were +covered with woods, from among which peeped the gilt domes of the +Imperial Palace of Peterhoff, and many other golden cupolas and spires, +and marble-white towers, and walls of churches and monasteries, and +palaces and villas, and also some stables, larger than any other edifice +in the neighbourhood, belonging to the Grand Duke Michael. On a hill +above them, a little distance to the west, appeared the unpretending +villa of the late Emperor. It is exactly like a second-class country +house. Here he used to delight to retire with his family from the cares +of state, and to throw aside completely all imperial grandeur. + +"Ah! Notwithstanding his overpowering ambition, his towering pride and +haughtiness, that villa alone shows that he was a man after all," +observed a fellow-passenger to Cousin Giles. + +The head of the gulf narrowed a little, but very little, as they +advanced. A few buildings now appeared ahead, and their friend was +pointing out to the young travellers the walls of some barracks burnt +long ago, and the ancient galley mole which sheltered the Russian +galleys in the war with the Swedes, when on a sudden they found +themselves among vast warehouses and manufactories, and tanneries and +granaries, and the magnificent foundry and private residence of Baron +Baird, who is by birth and education an Englishman. All the buildings +are on the banks of the Neva, close to its very mouth. The steamer +making several sharp turns among crowds of steamers and shipping of all +sorts, they speedily found themselves in a region of colleges, and +palaces, and churches, and other public buildings, the houses, which +anywhere else would be palaces, each vying with the other in size and +magnificence, and forming a vast street, the clear, rapid Neva flowing +down the centre, with superb granite quays on each side of it. Nowhere +in the world is there a finer street, though the height of the houses is +lost from its great expanse. Along the line on either side arise marble +columns and golden spires and domes innumerable, the two sides being +connected by one bridge of iron--massive it must be to stand the ice-- +and several bridges of boats, which can be removed at the approach of +winter; while in the centre of the stream were men-of-war and other +steamers, and numerous vessels which had brought articles for the Saint +Petersburg market. On the right side was the English quay, with a +handsome building at one end, used as an English hotel. Farther on was +the English church; and extending far away beyond it was palace after +palace, many in the Italian style, the mighty pile of the Winter Palace +being conspicuous above all, though in the far distance; and yet +numberless other proud edifices were to be seen reaching to the same +distance from it on one side as they do on the other. The travellers +had little time to observe these wonders before the steamer brought up +at a floating white and gold temple-looking building mooted at a granite +quay. Elegant as it looked, it was only the custom-house examining +shed. Under a graceful arch, which united a little office on either +side, the luggage was arranged, and bearded heroes in military costume +dipped their hands amid the clean linen and clothes. Their behaviour, +however, was civil; and, having taken possession of all the books they +found, with the exception of Bibles, which they gave back, they made a +sign that the boxes might be closed. The luggage was then turned out +through a gateway into the clean wide road, where there stood, as eager +and vociferous as any Irish carmen, ready to seize on it, a number of +drosky drivers. There are two sorts of hack droskies in Saint +Petersburg. One is somewhat like a small phaeton with wide wings; the +other has what Cousin Giles called a fore-and-aft seat, on which people +sit with their legs astraddle, the driver sitting perched on the end of +it. The horses, which are harnessed with ropes in shafts, are wiry, +shaggy-looking animals, and have high wooden bows arched over their +heads, with the idea of keeping them from stumbling. The drivers are no +less strange to English eyes than their vehicles. They are +long-bearded, shaggy-haired, keen-eyed men, with low-crowned, +broad-curling brimmed hats, wider at the top than at the head. They +wear long blue cloth coats, crossed at the breast, and fastened round +the waist with a red cotton sash. Their wide trousers are tucked into +high boots, and at their back hangs a square brass plate with their +number on it, serving the purpose of the London cabman's badge. They +are, indeed, under very similar regulations. + +Cousin Giles chartered three of these vehicles to carry themselves and +their luggage, and the lads laughed heartily as they found themselves +seated astride on one of them, rattling along the quays and over the +bridge to the English hotel, among hundreds of similar vehicles and +long-coated, bearded people, who looked as if they did not think there +was anything strange in the matter at all. + +The Miss Bensons, the kind-hearted landladies of the hotel, could just +manage to accommodate the travellers; and they soon found themselves +lodged in very clean rooms, and as comfortable as at any hotel in +England. After the fresh sea air they found the heat very great, and +the houses felt like stoves; indeed, they heard that the weather had +been excessively hot for some days. They, however, had come up with a +fresh breeze, which increased almost to a gale, and effectually cooled +the air. + +Cousin Giles was not a man to let the grass grow under his feet; so, as +soon as dinner was over, he and his young companions sauntered out to +take in, as he said, as much of Saint Petersburg as they could that +evening. Just above the city the Neva divides itself into several +branches, which form a number of marshy islands, on which islands Saint +Petersburg is built. The streets have been laid out to accommodate +themselves somewhat to the turnings of the river; so that they are not +at right angles to each other, as might have been expected, though as +much regularity as possible has been observed. The most central spot is +the Admiralty Square, a vast, irregular, open space, with the river on +one side of it; and near the river stands, on a vast block of granite, a +colossal equestrian statue of Peter the Great, with his arm stretched +out in an attitude of command. Forming the different sides of this vast +open space are some of the finest public buildings in the city: the +Admiralty with its golden spire, the beautiful Isaac Church with its +superb granite columns, the Winter Palace with its long rows of richly +ornamented windows, the War Office, the Senate House, and many others. +At one end, with a crescent of fine buildings before it, which contain +the War Office, stands a lofty column of polished granite, consisting +only of two blocks of stone, it is said. It is called the Alexander +Column, and is dedicated to him as "the Restorer of Peace to the World." +He is so called by the Russians in consequence of the part he took in +the overthrow of Napoleon. On its summit stands a green bronze statue +of the Archangel Michael, holding the cross of peace in his hand. From +the space before the Admiralty radiate off the three longest and widest +streets in that city of wide and long streets. The centre one and +longest is called the Nevkoi Prospekt, or the Neva Perspective. The +names of other two may be translated Resurrection Perspective and Peas +Street. The larger streets in the city are called Perspectives. Even +the cross streets in Saint Petersburg are mostly wider than Bond Street, +and often as wide and long as Regent Street. Many canals intersect the +city, and enable bulky goods to be brought to within a short distance of +all the houses by water; so that heavily-laden waggons are never seen +ploughing their way through the streets, as in most cities. There are +no narrow lanes or blind alleys either, the abode of poverty and +pestilence, within the precincts of the palaces of the wealthy and +great. Here, truly, poverty and rags are removed out of sight; but +still they do not cease to dwell in the land. While our young +travellers were standing looking at the Alexander Column, their +fellow-voyager, Mr Henshaw, joined them. As he had been much in all +parts of Russia, he was able to give them a great deal of interesting +information. + +"I would advise you first to get a general view of the city, and then +study details," said he. "Get a knowledge of the plan of the city, and +the mode in which it is constructed; then examine the outside of the +more important buildings; and, lastly, visit their interiors when they +contain anything worth seeing. The first thing you should do to-morrow +morning is to ascend the Admiralty tower; the scene from thence, as you +look down into the streets, teeming with their countless multitudes, is +very interesting, while you will also obtain a perfect bird's-eye view +of the whole city and surrounding land and water. We will now, if you +please, take a stroll along the quay beyond the Winter Palace. There +are many objects in that direction worth remarking." + +Cousin Giles gladly assented to the proposal, and, returning to the +river, they continued eastward along its banks, passing the front of the +Winter Palace. Near to it they stopped to look at a magnificent pile, +called the Hermitage, which is about as unlike the residence of a +dweller in the wilderness as anything in nature can well be. Mr +Henshaw promised them a sight of the interior another day, and told them +it contained some of the most magnificent rooms in the world, and was +full of fine pictures, rich articles of _vertu_, and numberless valuable +curiosities. + +"It was called the Hermitage by the Empress Catherine," said he, +"because she, purposed to retire thither from the cares of state--not, +however, to live the life of an anchorite, but to revel in that +indulgence of all the objects of sense to which her inclinations +prompted her." + +"But come along," said Cousin Giles; "we agreed not to spend our time on +details till we had mastered the geography of the city." + +So they continued their walk along the quays. Next to the Hermitage, +and joined to it by a passage over an arch which spans a canal,--like +the Bridge of Sighs at Venice, only smaller,--they passed the Imperial +Theatre, and then a succession of fine residences of nobles and private +persons, and lastly the Marble Palace of the Grand Duke Michael. It is +so called not because it is built of marble, but because it has marble +pillars. Across a street, on the same line, stands a fine pile, which +looks like another palace, but in reality contains only the stables and +offices, residences of servants, etcetera, belonging to the Marble +Palace. Among the palaces they passed was a huge white one, with a very +ugly portico. + +"That," said Mr Henshaw, "was presented by the Emperor Alexander to the +Duke of Wellington, when he became a Russian field-marshal, that he +might have a house to inhabit should he ever visit Russia. On his death +it reverted to the Russian Government. Opposite to this row of palaces +the Neva is very wide. A branch of it runs away in a more northerly +direction, forming an island which has been covered with fortifications, +and is called the citadel. In the centre stands a church with a lofty +golden pinnacle. Beneath it lie buried the Russian Czars. Here is also +a cottage, built by Peter the Great, where he used to reside while +watching the progress of his navy and the uprearing of the now mighty +city, called after his patron saint." + +"From a history I have been reading, I find that Peter was not nearly so +great a man as I fancied," observed Fred. + +"Hush! Hush! That is treason here," answered Cousin Giles. "To his +valet he certainly was not great, as Carlyle would say, though he was a +very uncommon man. But we should not judge of people by what they +appear, or even by what they are doing, so much as by the results +produced by their doings. Now Peter contrived, certainly by no very +romantic or refined means, to produce a great number of very wonderful +results. He caused this great city to be erected, he built a large +navy, he taught people to navigate it who had scarcely before seen a +vessel bigger than a Finnish schooner, and he contributed to imbue a +population sunk in barbarism with a desire to assimilate to the +civilised nations of Europe, while he introduced many arts and sciences +before unknown into his country. Considering his powers and the little +support he could obtain from his countrymen, I must say I think he +worked wonders. He was, therefore, certainly what the world calls a +great man, though he had great faults, and many littlenesses and +contemptibilities. I acknowledge, also, that many far greater men have +lived, and are at present alive, and that there will be many more." + +"You have defended Peter, and I think on the only grounds on which he +can be defended," said Mr Henshaw; "his private character will not for +a moment bear discussion." + +"Certainly not," answered Cousin Giles; "remember, Fred, and Harry also, +that I do not say that he ought properly to be called great, if he is to +be judged by the law of Scripture, nor do I wish you to consider him so. +Who is there, indeed, who can be so called? But he was great according +to the received maxims of the world, by which maxims other men with as +little desert have received the same title." + +"Before we return, I must take you to the Summer Gardens, where you see +the trees beyond the Marble Palace," said Mr Henshaw. "I wish to show +you the statue of Kryloff, the Russian Aesop, as he is called." + +The Summer Gardens are surrounded by an iron railing, and contain long +rows of fine trees, and gravel walks, and seats, and statues, generally +of a very antique form and taste, happily now exploded, with heathen +deities' hideous faces, such as are to be seen in old prints. In the +centre of a small open space, surrounded by trees, stands the statue of +Kryloff, a fine, bronze, Johnsonian-looking, sitting figure, much larger +than life, with a book and pencil in his hand. The pedestal on which he +is placed has on each side figures of animals, in deep relief, +illustrating his fables. There is the stork and the wolf, and there are +bears and apes, and cats and dogs playing violins and violoncellos and +other musical instruments. Several mujicks (peasants) were gazing at +the figures with intense interest, apparently entering fully into the +spirit of the artist. + +On their return along the quays, they stopped to look at the long +bridges of boats which cross the Neva in the summer. A portion of each +can be removed to allow vessels to pass up or down the stream; but by a +police regulation this can be only done with one bridge at a time, and +at a certain fixed hour of the day, so that the traffic across the river +receives no very material interruption. Near the end of one of them, on +the opposite side of the river, they observed a handsome edifice with a +fine portico before it, and two granite columns, ornamented with galleys +carved in white stone. This building they found was the Exchange. +Farther westward of it they observed other magnificent buildings, which +they learned were the Corps of Cadets,--the name is applied to the +building itself,--the Academy of Sciences, the University, the Academy +of Arts, and several others,--all covering a vast extent of ground +nearer the mouth of the river. By the time they reached their hotel +they were tolerably tired, and, to their surprise, they found that it +was nearly ten o'clock. Even then there was a bright twilight, though +it was too dark to enable them to distinguish more than the grand +outlines of the city. + + + +CHAPTER FOUR. + + The Russian Passport System--Baron Verysoft--Mr Tobias Evergreen--His + Gratitude for the Baron's Politeness--The Difficulty of reading + Russian--The Travellers at a Nonplus--Russian Signboard--Fred and + Harry lose themselves--Meet with Tom Pulling--How Tom and his + Messmates managed to find their Latitude and Longitude, and to steer a + right Course for Port. + +The next morning our travellers were reminded that they were not in a +free country, in which a man may come and go as he lists without let or +hindrance, but that certain very stringent regulations respecting +passports must be conformed to before they could attempt to do anything +else. Most condescending gentlemen, "commissionaires" they called +themselves, undertook for certain considerations to get the work done +for them; but Cousin Giles declined their services. + +"I have no doubt that we shall be able to get through the business +ourselves perfectly well, and we shall see something of the way the +Russians manage these affairs," said he. + +He intended to visit the mercantile house on whom he had a letter of +credit, and he had also several letters of introduction which he wished +to deliver as soon as possible. To his bankers, accordingly, they first +drove, and they had no difficulty in finding the house. The merchant +who acted in that capacity was very kind, and gave them all the +information they could desire as to what they should do about their +passports; he also wrote down for them a list of the names of the houses +at which they had arranged to call. Their first duty was to visit the +Alien Office, to take out their permission to reside or travel in +Russia. It is in the south-eastern part of the city. The gentleman who +presides over it goes by the name of Baron Verysoft among the English, +from the peculiar suavity of his manners. Mounting a flight of stairs, +they found the Baron at one end of a handsome room, more like a +drawing-room than an office, with a number of persons seated round it, +all waiting to undergo the ordeal of his friendly inquiries. Nearly all +civilised nations were there represented,--English, Germans, French, and +Spaniards. Among them they recognised some of their fellow-passengers. +The simple, round, good-natured face of one of them they were glad to +see. His name was Mr Tobias Evergreen. He was very civil to the lads +on board, and seemed to take a great interest in them. Cousin Giles +said he did not think he was quite the man to benefit by a journey in +Russia; but one thing was certain, he was not likely to make the police +very suspicious about his movements. Besides the strangers, there were +two or three clerks in uniform, whose sharp, piercing eyes kept glancing +round on the visitors, and narrowly scrutinising any fresh arrivals. +They seemed to have little else to do beyond this, but to mend their +pens, and to make occasional notes in some huge books before them. A +number of people had to go up to the table of the Baron, and to reply to +his questions; so our friends were compelled to exercise their patience +till their turn came. Mr Evergreen spoke a few sentences, which he +said was French. Cousin Giles also knew a little of that language, but +Fred was able to understand it, and to speak it tolerably well. At last +Mr Evergreen's turn came, and they followed him up to the table. + +The Baron, in the blandest and most courteous way, inquired Mr +Evergreen's name and country; whether he was married or single; what was +his object in travelling; the name of his banker; how long he purposed +remaining in the country,--to all of which questions he gave answers +which seemed perfectly satisfactory to the Baron; and he then +volunteered several particulars of his private history, at which the +Baron bowed and smiled, as the lads observed he had bowed and smiled at +several persons before, while he went on making notes in his book. +Perhaps he did not understand a word Mr Evergreen said, or, what is +very probable, he was not listening to what did not concern him, but was +habitually too polite to let this be discovered. Mr Evergreen had then +to sign his name several times in a book, and then the Baron bowed very +politely, handed him his passport to take it to the passport office and +various police offices, to be signed and countersigned again and again. +Mr Evergreen on this bowed to the Baron, and the Baron bowed again. +Mr Evergreen would have continued bowing before so great and benignant +a personage had not the Baron summoned our friends to approach, Mr +Evergreen meantime waiting for them. + +They quickly got through the business, and the Baron gave a bow to +Cousin Giles, which, if not so profound as those he gave to Mr +Evergreen, was much more cordial, and seemed to say: "We understand each +other; you are a man I can trust." + +When they got outside the door, Mr Evergreen was loud in his praises of +Baron Verysoft. + +"Nice, charming man!" he exclaimed; "so civil, so kind to me. Don't you +think I ought to ask him to dinner, now? It would be but a proper +attention in return for his civility." + +"He would have to fulfil a very large number of dinner engagements if +all thought as you do; but I suspect few people are so grateful for his +attentions," answered Cousin Giles. + +It was some time before Mr Evergreen could be persuaded to give up his +idea. + +"The credit of our country is at stake," said he. "Well, well, I +suppose I must do as you advise, and let the Baron form his own +conclusions of us." + +After all, the terrible passport work was got through with much less +trouble and expense than Cousin Giles was led to believe would be the +case. One of the head clerks at the passport office, a Dane, who spoke +English perfectly, assured him that if he went himself he would get the +documents signed at once without bribery. The Government fees were very +low, and beyond these he paid nothing. He was afterwards told that the +Government wished to produce a good impression on the foreigners who +were expected in the country to be present at the coronation, and had +therefore issued directions to expedite the delivery of passports. + +About this time, certainly, new regulations were made with regard to the +passports for natives, and many of the old and most obnoxious ones were +altered. Till now, a Russian, if he wished to move from one town to +another, could not do so without giving several days' notice to the +police; and if he wished to leave the country he was compelled to beg +permission to do so three months beforehand. Now, by getting any +well-known person to be responsible for any debt he might leave unpaid, +he was able to travel abroad at the notice of a day or two--indeed, as +soon as the governor of his district would issue his passport. Of +course it was a question how long this improved system was likely to +last. Even now, both foreigners and natives could only get passports +from one city to another; and thus Cousin Giles had taken out one for +Moscow, but would be obliged then to take another to go farther into the +interior. All the passport arrangements having been made, the +travellers agreed to leave their letters of introduction, as a drizzling +rain had come on, and would prevent them from enjoying the views +presented by the city. When, however, Cousin Giles came to examine the +paper of directions given by the banker, he found that they were written +in the Russian character. Now as the Russian letters, although some of +the capitals are somewhat alike in shape, have a totally different sound +to the English, or indeed to any other European language, he could not +read a word. + +"Never mind," said he; "perhaps our drosky drivers, our ishvoshtsticks, +can read it." + +He showed it to the two men, who bent their heads with profound sagacity +over the paper, letting the drops of rain from their shovel hats fall +down on the document, nearly obliterating the writing; and then they +called another of their profession to their council, but the united +wisdom of all three apparently could make nothing of the inscription; +for, at last returning it, they shook their heads very gravely, and +shrugged their shoulders in a most significant manner. + +"I daresay we shall fall in with some one or other who can speak English +before long," said Cousin Giles, who was never long at a loss on an +emergency. + +He accordingly stopped one or two people, whom he addressed with a +polite bow in English and French, but they shrugged their shoulders and +passed on. At last they met a German who spoke English, and he very +willingly directed the ishvoshtsticks where to drive. + +While Cousin Giles was paying one of his visits, and as it was near the +luncheon hour at the hotel, he advised Fred and Harry to return there, +promising soon to follow them. + +"We can find our way there easily enough!" they both exclaimed; "we know +exactly what to say to the ishvoshtstick--Angliskoy Nabergenoy--that's +it--the English Quay. Oh, we shall get along famously." + +Saying this, they jumped up on their fore-and-aft drosky, and, giving +their directions as well as could any Russian, they thought, away they +drove. + +They were then in the Vasiliefskoi Ostrof quarter, or on Basilius +Island. This is the name given to the large island which is to the +north of the main channel of the Neva. Here is the Exchange, and many +public buildings before mentioned, and here most of the English +merchants reside. They drove on, remarking a variety of novel and +curious sights on their way; but, forgetting to take due note of the +direction in which they were going, they passed along the quay, and over +one of the floating bridges, and then through some fine wide streets. +They were amused with the guards stationed at the corners of streets in +every quarter of the city. They were mostly thin, tall, lank men, in +long coats reaching to their heels, with huge battle-axes on long poles +in their hands, and helmets on their heads. What use they were of it +was difficult to say, for they certainly could not have run after a +thief, much less have knocked one down. The signs, also, in front of +the shops appeared very ridiculous. Instead of the display of articles +made by an English tradesman in his windows, there were large boards +over the doors and windows, and their sides, and under the windows, +painted with gigantic designs representing the chief articles to be +found within. Huge gloves and stockings, and cravats and +pocket-handkerchiefs, and boots and shoes, and coats and trousers, and +hats and caps, and knives and forks and spoons--indeed, it is impossible +to enumerate all the articles thus represented. + +"Those are what we may call Russian hieroglyphics, Harry," said Fred; "I +daresay, now, that the Egyptians had something of the sort in their shop +windows before they knew how to write." + +"It is a capital sort of language," replied Harry, "because, you see, +the mujicks, who do not know how to read, and we, who don't understand +Russian, both understand it equally well." + +"The best universal language," remarked Fred. "If something of the sort +were established regularly in the world, it would save a great deal of +trouble. But I say, Harry, where have we got to? I am sure we have +never been here before." + +They had been so amused that they had not remarked the change in the +style of architecture of the streets through which they were passing. +They were now in a region of low houses, although of considerable size, +mostly on one floor, very few having two storeys. + +"I am sure this is not the way to the English Quay." + +Harry, who sat in front, on this began to pull the ishvoshtstick by his +badge, and then by his sleeve, to make him stop. The fellow either +would not or could not understand that they wanted to stop. At last he +pulled up, and looked over his shoulder. + +"I say, Harry, do you remember what they call the English Quay? For, on +my word, I have forgotten it," exclaimed Fred in some little dismay, +feeling very like Mustapha in the tale of _The Forty Thieves_, when he +forgets the talismanic words, "Open sesame." + +"I'm sure I don't know exactly, but I'll try and see if I can't make the +fellow understand," answered Harry. "I say, you cabdrivowitch, cut away +to the English Quayoi!" + +The man shook his head and sat still, as much as to say, "I don't +understand you, my masters." + +"What's to be done? He doesn't seem to think my Russian very +first-rate," said Harry. + +"I say, old fellow, we are very hungry, and want to get back to our inn +to luncheon," cried Fred, imitating the action of eating. + +A bright idea seemed to have seized the ishvoshtstick, and, whipping on +his horse, he drove rapidly onward. Harry thought that he had fully +comprehended them. He pulled up, however, very soon before a door, over +which were painted pieces of meat and sausages, and rolls, and bottles, +and glasses. Evidently it was an eating-house, but the lads would not +avail themselves of its accommodation, for two reasons--they did not +know what to ask for, and they had no Russian money in their pockets; +they therefore shook their heads, and signed to the driver to go on. +The man evidently thought them very unreasonable and hard to please, but +obeyed. It was soon clear to them that they were getting to the +outskirts of the city, and they were about trying to make the man turn +back when they saw three figures approaching, whom by their rolling walk +and dress they recognised even at a distance as English seamen. When +the men drew near, the lads were delighted to find that one was their +shipmate, old Tom. + +He hailed them with a cheerful voice, and told them that, having met two +young friends belonging to a ship at Cronstadt, he had got leave for +them to accompany him to see Saint Petersburg. + +"But I say, Tom, can you tell us where we are?" said Fred. + +"That's just what we were going to ask you," replied old Tom. "We've +got out of our reckoning somehow, and we know no more where we are than +if we had got into the Pacific without a chart or compass." + +"What is to be done?" exclaimed Fred; "this stupid fellow does not +understand a word we say, and though we have told him to drive back to +our hotel he won't go." + +For a long time all hands consulted together. One proposed one thing, +one the other. By this time two or three other ishvoshtsticks had +stopped with their vehicles near the strangers, but could no more than +the first comprehend where they wanted to go. + +"If we could but get back to the large square with the big statue in it +of Peter on horseback on a rock, we could find our way to the inn easily +enough," said Fred. + +Old Tom thought a moment. "What, the chap who is holding out his hand?" +he asked. + +"The same," answered Fred. + +"Then I have it!" he exclaimed with exultation. "Jem, just do you go +down on all fours, and serve me for a horse for a minute, and we'll soon +see what will happen." + +"What! Do you want me to carry you there, Tom?" asked Jem. "I'd do it +willingly if I knew the way, but I think we should get there faster if +we all walked on our two legs." + +"No, no!" answered Tom; "I want you to act the big horse, and I'll do +the rider." + +"Oh, ay, I see it all now, mate," said Jem, going down on all fours, +while old Tom, who, though serious-minded, was very much of a wag at +proper seasons, leaped on his back, and stuck out one arm as Peter's +statue is doing. + +"Now, Jem, rear up on your fore legs as the big horse is doing, and we +shall come the statue to an affigraphy," he cried. + +The representation of the statue of Peter was unmistakeable. In an +instant the ishvoshtsticks comprehended what was required, and, clapping +their hands with delight, while they burst into loud laughter, made +signals to the seamen to jump into a drosky, and away they drove as fast +as their horses could go, in the very direction from whence Fred and +Harry had just come. In about a quarter of an hour they saw the tall +golden spire of the Admiralty directly ahead of them, and shortly +afterwards they rattled into the vast open space in which it stands, +when the ishvoshtsticks pulled up close to the very statue of Peter. + +"Now, starboard your helm, my lads, and steer a westerly course," sung +out old Tom to the drivers. They did not understand what he said, but +they saw the direction in which he pointed along the quay, so they all +drove off again as rapidly as before. Harry pulled at their driver's +badge to make him stop in front of the hotel, where they found Cousin +Giles looking out for them. He had not been very anxious about their +safety, for he guessed that they had lost their way, and would probably +find it again before long, while, as he said, it would teach them to +keep a better reckoning in future. Old Tom and his companions could not +be persuaded to come in, for they said that they must make the best of +their way back to Cronstadt. They made Cousin Giles laugh heartily by +their description of the mode they had hit on for making the +ishvoshtsticks understand the point to which they wished to be conveyed. + + + +CHAPTER FIVE. + + Bird's-eye View of Saint Petersburg from the Tower of the Admiralty-- + The Isaac Church--Politeness of a Russian Officer--The Hermitage + Palace--Portraits of the Czars--Magnificent Hall--Superb View from + it--Jewels--Relics of Peter the Great--The Winter and other Palaces-- + Bridge of Boats--Exchange--Church of Peter Paul--Tombs of the Czars. + +Cousin Giles and his young companions had climbed up to the summit of +the Admiralty tower on a fine bright morning, when they could enjoy the +strange scene which this aerial position presented to their eyes. + +"Let us take it in properly, and map it down in our memory," said Cousin +Giles after they had looked round and round, then to a distance, and +down into the open spaces and streets below them, with their moving +crowd of men, and horses, and carriages, of high and low degree, dashing +and tearing here and there as if the lives of monarchs and the fate of +kingdoms depended on their speed. "First, look to the east; there we +have the rapid, clear Neva, flowing out of Lake Ladoga, which in our +mind's eye we can see in the distance, though it is too far off to be +seen in reality. Then, in the same direction, near the outskirts of the +city, the river branches off into several channels, making a delta like +that of the Nile, and forming a number of islands of various +dimensions--some so large that a considerable portion of the city to the +north of us stands on them, others containing only a few gardens and +villas. The country surrounding the city seems barren and desolate in +the extreme, either an arid steppe or a stagnant marsh telling of the +agues and fevers afflicting those dwelling near it. To the north, +however, not many versts from the city, rise the hills and woods, and +fields and orchards of Finland, inhabited by the finest peasantry of the +Russian empire. To the west appear the shining waters of the head of +the Gulf of Finland, with the fortifications of Cronstadt in the far +distance, and a fleet of men-of-war before it; while higher up is a +whole squadron of gun-boats, which were lately built and fitted out in a +great hurry to meet those England had prepared to send into these +waters. Across the head of the gulf, looking down on Cronstadt, peep +forth amid a mass of green foliage the golden spires and domes, and +white-walled palaces, and Swiss-looking villas of Peterhoff, beyond +which, and far away as the eye can reach to the southward, and very, +very much farther on, one great desolate steppe or plain, bearing for +miles and miles scarcely a tree higher than a gooseberry bush, or a hill +boasting a height of greater elevation than a molehill. Now let us +bring our eyes nearer to our feet, to the mouth of the river. We see it +crowded with steamers and every variety of craft of moderate size of all +nations, and yet we know that the greater proportion of vessels which +bade to the city do not come higher than Cronstadt. The large barges +and lighters which we see moving up and down the river convey their +cargoes to and from that place. High up the river, above the bridges, +is another collection of vessels, and several are to be seen moving up +and down the different channels; while the canals, which meander through +the city in various directions, are literally jammed up with barges, +chiefly unloading firewood. The canals pass down the middle of the +broad streets, many of which are fringed with trees. At the mouth of +the river, on the south side, is Mr Baird's iron factory, where +steam-engines and iron machines of all sorts are made; near it is his +private residence. He is now a Russian baron, and is much esteemed by +the Emperor. A little higher up is the new naval arsenal, with long +sheds, where gangs of workmen are employed in chains, and through which +runs a canal. Some men-of-war steamers are moored off it. Others are +seen in different parts of the river, their guns commanding the quays; +so that, should an emeute ever take place, the communication between the +various quarters of the city would speedily be cut off. Groups of +shipping are visible at different parts of the quays; but no ugly +warehouses or stores of any sort are in sight, and their cargoes are +quickly spirited away to other unaristocratical parts of the city. Here +the mansions of the noble and wealthy have taken possession of the whole +length of the quays. The first building of importance on the north +side, opposite Mr Baird's works, is the Corps of Mines. It is of great +extent, and contains a museum stored with models, illustrating every +branch of civil and military engineering, as well as some beautifully +executed models of various descriptions of mines. Then come in +succession, and nearly in the same line, the magnificent edifices +containing the Academy of Arts, the University, the Academy of Sciences, +the Corps of Cadets, and, lastly, the Exchange. Some of these buildings +cover as much ground as many of the largest squares in London. Above +the Exchange is Petersburg Island, which is covered with a strong +fortification, called the Citadel. It contains a church called Peter +Paul, built by Peter the Great, and which has a spire exactly like that +of the Admiralty. On the island is also the cottage which Peter the +Great inhabited while the foundations of his wondrous city were being +laid. Beyond it, to the north and west, can be discerned some of the +smaller channels of the silvery Neva, flowing among gardens and +orchards, and green waving woods, with villas of every description of +architecture, more suited apparently to the climate of the sunny south +than to the cold atmosphere of this bleak region. Between the base of +the building on which we stand and the northern portion of the city we +have described, runs the main channel of the river. It is crossed by +several broad bridges, resting on a chain of huge boats or barges, which +can be removed when the approach of winter gives signs that, by means of +the quick-forming ice, the inhabitants will be able to cross without +their aid. + +"We will now turn and face to the south. To the right is the long line +of the English Quay, with its numerous handsome and substantial +mansions, which in any other city would be called palaces. Then comes +the great square or rather space below us, bordered by huge piles +containing the chief public offices in the empire. Standing amid them, +yet not pressed on too closely, rises the proud structure of the new +Church of Saint Isaac, with its four granite-columned porticoes. Then +radiating off directly before us are the three widest and longest +streets perhaps in Europe: first in magnificence comes the Neva +Perspective, and then comes Peas Street, and the Resurrection +Perspective; but running out of them are also streets of great width, +composed of houses of numerous storeys and undoubted pretensions to +grandeur. The Neva Perspective is the most interesting. On the right +side of it stands the Kazan Church, which it was intended should be like +Saint Peter's at Rome; but, except that it has a wide-spreading portico +with numerous columns, it is in no way to be compared to that +magnificent structure. On the same side is a building, or rather a +collection of buildings, which at a distance have no very imposing +appearance. This is the great market of Saint Petersburg, or the +Gostinnoi dvor. It consists of a series of arcades, in front of stores +of two or more storeys, forming the outside boundary of an extensive +region of squares, which have likewise arcades running round them, the +area being filled with garden produce and rough wares not liable to be +injured by weather. Here every article, either for use or consumption, +which the lower orders can possibly require, is to be found, from a hat +to a cucumber, or a pair of shoes to a leg of mutton; but, as our +friends were about to visit the place, it need not now be further +described. + +"At the very end of the street could be seen the terminus of the Saint +Petersburg and Moscow railway, the iron road itself running far, far +away to the southward across the flat and marshy steppe. On either side +of this prince of streets, the Neva Prospect, and in many streets +branching from it, could be seen a number of lofty and magnificent +palaces with here and there golden-domed churches, and many public +buildings, convents, and monasteries, and wide walks fringed with trees, +and canals carrying produce from far-off countries into the very heart +of the city. Let us have one look more before we descend at Peter's +Statue, not bigger apparently than a child's toy, and the Alexander +Column, and the golden domes of the Isaac Church, and the huge Winter +Palace, and the Hermitage, and the Imperial Theatre, and the long line +of palaces facing the quays of the Neva beyond them; then we have to-day +witnessed a sight not easily forgotten. + +"Saint Petersburg, as it stands on its millions of wooden piles, the +liquid, rapidly-flowing Neva, the moving, living crowd of uniform-clad +inhabitants--men, women, and children, coaches, droskies, and horses, +infantry and cavalry, Cossacks of the Don on their ragged ponies, and +skeleton-looking guards with their glittering halberds at every corner. +Those at home may gain a fair notion of the scene from Burford's +Panorama, but they will soon forget it, while we shall remember it all +our lives: there is nothing like the reality to impress it on our +minds." So said Cousin Giles as our friends began to descend into the +world below. + +"We must now visit some of these places in detail," said Cousin Giles as +they stood in the square outside the Admiralty gates. "Where shall we +go first?" + +"To the big new church!" exclaimed Harry. "I want to see if it is as +fine inside as it is out." + +To the Isaac Church accordingly they steered their course. On their way +they encountered a party of British naval officers, whose ship was lying +at Cronstadt. Several of them were well-known to Cousin Giles, and they +gladly accepted his invitation to visit the church. When, however, they +got to the gate in the wooden paling which still surrounded it, the +porter signified to them that without a ticket they could not be +admitted. Even a silver rouble could not soften him. He looked at it +wistfully, but for some reason was afraid of accepting the bribe. Just +as they were going away in despair, a tall, gentleman-like officer +stepped through the gateway. He looked at them for an instant, and then +inquired in French what they wanted. Cousin Giles explained. + +"Oh, I will soon arrange that, I doubt not," he replied, returning into +the enclosure. He quickly came back, and begged them to enter. "After +you have seen the church, if you will come to the Hermitage, I will be +there, and shall have great pleasure in showing you over it." + +Cousin Giles and the commander of the English ship and the other +officers bowed and thanked him, and accepted his offer. He then left +them, and they mounted the long flight of steps which leads up to the +southern portico. It must be understood that there are three similar +porticoes, with lofty granite columns, constituting the chief beauty of +the exterior of the building. The roof is supported by massive columns: +they, and every part of the walls, are covered with the richest marbles +of every colour, highly polished. In the centre is a dome, near the +summit of which, as if it were watching over the worshippers below, is +seen a dove, floating apparently in air. The effect is good, whatever +may be thought of the taste which would allow so sacred an emblem to be +thus introduced. The great attractions of the church are a row of +malachite pillars on either side of the high altar. Their appearance is +very fine; the malachite is, however, only veneered on copper, of which +the pillars are composed. There are also numerous pictures of saints, +which at first sight appeared to be of the richest mosaic, like those of +Saint Peter's at Rome, but on examination they proved to be only on +canvas; perhaps they are placed there till the real mosaics are ready. +The three brass doors of the church, covered with figures in the deepest +relief, are very fine, as is also a large window of stained glass. + +Cousin Giles observed, that the richness of the decorations put him in +mind of Saint Peter's at Rome; but, both in respect to size and elegance +of design, it is much inferior. + +The party having satisfied their curiosity, set off across the square to +the Hermitage. Their new friend the colonel was at the door to receive +them, and, conducted by a guide in the imperial livery, they mounted a +superb flight of steps, which led them into a series of magnificent +rooms, the walls of which were covered with some of the finest pictures +of the great masters. In the centre of each of these rooms were +exquisitely-shaped vases of malachite and other valuable materials. + +The colonel, in the politest manner, pointed out to the party the +pictures most worthy of admiration. Cousin Giles was particularly +struck by two holy families, by Raphael, painted at different periods of +his life, very different from each other, and yet both equally +beautiful. + +There are a number of very large pictures in the halls, the favourite +subject of which is the retreat of the French from Russia, and the +burning of Moscow. This subject is treated in every possible manner. +There are also a number of large pictures of the battles in which the +Russians have been victorious. They are not fond of keeping up a +remembrance of their defeats. There was a good picture of the late +Emperor, with his haughty brow, fierce eyes, and determined lips, the +very impersonification of self-will and human pride, now brought down to +the very dust; but, haughty as was that brow, the expression of the +countenance gave no sign of talent or true genius. It was indeed +wanting. He had the sense to take advantage of the ideas of others, and +the determination to carry them into execution. The colonel stopped to +look at the picture, but there was no smile of affection on his +countenance. There were also full-length portraits of many Czars, and +among others of Paul, which had a rollicking, half-tipsy look about it, +very characteristic of the man. The crown was on one side, and the +buttons of the waistcoat unfastened, if not, indeed, buttoned awry. +Intoxication or insanity was clearly portrayed by the too faithful +artist. It was a way of speaking truth in which courtiers are not apt +to indulge. + +The colonel led the party through a number of halls, each more vast and +more beautiful than the former. The walls of one were of white and +gold, of another blue and silver, and of a third of a pinkish hue; but +the most beautiful of all was the music hall. The pillars which +supported the roof were white twisted with gold--a most aerial flight of +steps leading to a gallery above, with a second row of pillars. It was +more like a scene described in Eastern romance than what one expects to +meet with in the solid reality of life. The windows of the hall looked +out on a fine view of the Neva, with the citadel before it. The colonel +caught the eyes of the British officers looking at it. + +"Ah!" said he, taking the hands of the commander and pointing to the +fortress, "that is the place you would have had to take if you had come +here in the spring; but, believe me, my dear sir, I receive you much +more willingly in this friendly way than I should have done at the point +of the bayonet." + +The colonel spoke in so frank and cordial a way, and with so much grace +in his manner, that he completely won the hearts of his guests. They +all warmly pressed him to come on board, their ship, promising to show +him everything about her. He replied that he would gladly have availed +himself of their offer, but that he was compelled to go to Moscow to +make preparations for the coronation. + +Two fine old soldiers, tall and upright, with huge moustaches, and +breasts covered with decorations, stood guard at the entrance of the +treasury. It contained jewels of every description, and curious +productions of rare art, such as a prince in the _Arabian Nights_ might +have been told to bring from a far distant country before he could hope +to win the hand of some lovely princess. Among them was a clock under a +glass case, consisting of a golden tree, with a peacock, an owl, a cock, +a mouse, a stream of running water, and many other things. At each hour +the peacock unfolds his tail, the cock crows, the owl rolls his goggle +eyes, and the mouse runs out of its hole. But far more interesting than +all the crowns of gold, the robes of silk, and the precious gems, are +numerous articles manufactured by the great Peter, and the tools with +which he worked. Among others is the chair on which he sat--a very +rough affair, spy-glasses of huge dimensions, and walking-sticks in +numerable--some thin-made switches, others thick enough to knock down a +giant, with every variety of handle, ending with the old man's crutch, a +complete epitome of human life. + +It would be impossible in our journal to mention all the magnificent +pictures collected from every part of Europe, and the vast numbers of +interesting curiosities. + +This beautiful palace, as has been remarked, was built by Catherine, +that she might retire to it after the cares of state, and endeavour to +forget them among its varieties and objects of interest. That she +attained the ease and happiness she sought, is more than doubtful. + +"Depend on it, my lads," observed Cousin Giles, "that powerful but bad +woman was far from happy amid all the luxury which wealth could give +her. Nothing but a good conscience, void of offence towards God and +man, can bring happiness, and that she had not got." + +The Winter Palace is next to the Hermitage. Though much larger, it is +far less interesting, as the interior was burnt down in 1837, when many +fine paintings and articles of value were destroyed. It is said that in +the old palace there resided not less than six thousand persons, some +living in huts constructed on the roof, whence no one thought of +disturbing them. Some thousands no doubt reside also in the present +building. + +That moon-stricken monarch, Paul, built a palace for himself, in the +hope that within its fortified walls he might be safe from the attacks +of his enemies. So eager was he to have it finished, that five thousand +men were employed on it daily. To dry the walls, iron plates were made +hot and fastened against them; but what is done in a hurry is generally +ill done, and such was the case in this instance: the cost was three +times greater than it need have been. + +Scarcely had the unhappy Emperor inhabited his new abode three months, +when he fell, pierced by the daggers of assassins, in the centre of the +very fortress he had fancied would prove his security. + +The Hermitage having been thoroughly lionised under the auspices of the +polite colonel, the party steered a course across the bridge of boats to +the Exchange, a large building with a fine portico and a flight of steps +facing the river, on the north side, at the eastern end of Vasili +Ostrof, and with a fine open space before it. It was presented by the +late Emperor to the mercantile community of Saint Petersburg, whom he +wished especially to conciliate. In front stand two granite columns, +decorated with the prows of ships cast in metal. On a close examination +of the building, our friends discovered that it was covered with stucco, +which in many places was already crumbling away, as is the case with +many other edifices of high and low degree in this rapidly constructed +city. Cousin Giles and his friends were hesitating about entering when +they were overtaken by Mr Henshaw. + +"Come in," said he. "The merchants here are happy to see strangers; +they will not knock your hat over your eyes, as the frequenters of +Change Alley are wont to do to intruders." + +They followed their friend, and found themselves in a vast hall full of +long blue or green-coated gentry, with flowing beards and low-crowned +hats, intermingled with others in modern European costume--some looking +round in expectation of a correspondent, others in earnest conversation +in knots of twos or threes, busily engaged in buying or selling, a word +deciding the fate of hundreds of fat oxen now feeding securely in their +native pastures, or of thousands of tall trees growing in the primeval +forest thousands of versts away. They were much struck by observing an +altar on one side of the entrance, with candles burning on it, and the +picture of a saint, black, as usual, and in a golden habit, before which +the native merchants bowed and crossed themselves as they passed onward +to transact their affairs. Here were collected representatives of all +nations, and from every part of Russia--a strange medley of +physiognomies, tongues, and costumes; but so habitual has become to them +a modulated tone of voice, that, in spite of the hundreds speaking at +once, a gentle murmur alone is heard through the hall. + +Among the foreigners the Germans probably preponderate, but the English +hold a very high position: in no community abroad are British merchants +more deservedly respected than those engaged in the Russian trade. +Cousin Giles and his young companions made the acquaintance of several, +and found them most pleasing, gentlemanly men. Mr Henshaw took them to +see the portraits of the present and the late Emperor, hanging up in an +inner room of the building. The present Czar is a slighter and shorter +man than his father, and with a far milder expression of countenance. +The picture of Nicholas speaks of undaunted courage and determination, +and at the same time of a relentless and almost a ferocious disposition. + +"I am glad he was not my master," exclaimed Harry; "how hard he would +have hit if he had begun to flog one!" + +Leaving the Exchange, they returned to the south side, and then crossed +another long bridge of boats, and afterwards a smaller one, to the +Citadel. Here their object was to see the Church of Peter Paul, where +Peter the Great, and all his successors, including the late Emperor, lie +buried. After they had entered within the strongly fortified walls, an +avenue of birch trees took them up to the church, with its lofty gilt +spire. The richly painted roof is supported by massive square pillars, +covered with pictures of saints, as is the pulpit. The altar blazes +with gold and silver, and huge silver candlesticks. The faces and hands +of the saints are all black, and peep out of holes cut in sheets of gold +or silver maiked to represent their robes; thus the artist has very +little labour in producing a picture. The tombs of the Czars are +grouped on either side of the high altar. They are plain sarcophagi, +are usually covered with black velvet palls, very simple and +unostentatious. On the walls and pillars are suspended various trophies +taken in war from the enemies of Russia. Over the windows, as Harry +observed, were some "huge jolly cherubs--that is to say," he added, "fat +heads and nothing else to carry behind them; so it is no wonder their +cheeks get blown out." + +"We have seen enough lions for one day," said Cousin Giles as they left +the fortress. "Fred will have work enough to write up his notes as it +is." + +After dinner, Fred read out to Cousin Giles and his brother the remarks +he had made on the various scenes they had witnessed in their walks and +drives through the city. They will be found in the following chapter. + + + +CHAPTER SIX. + + Remarks from Fred's Note-book about Saint Petersburg, and the Habits + and Customs of the Russians. + +The streets and places of Saint Petersburg are very badly paved: the +holes and ruts in them are full of mud when it rains, and of dust in +summer weather; some parts are covered with blocks of wood, like the +streets of London. Did the English learn the system from the Russians, +or the Russians from the English? Other streets are paved with little +round pebbles, very unpleasant to walk on. The side pavements are often +narrow and very uneven. The frosts of winter much unsettle the +flagstones. + +The policemen at the corners of the streets look as if they were all cut +from one model, like a child's tin regiment of soldiers. They are all +tall, thin, lathy fellows, in long greatcoats, with huge moustaches and +long-handled halberds; their faces as long, solemn, and grave as if the +weight of the empire rested on their shoulders. + +Mr Evergreen, who had joined us near the hotel, had a cigar in his +mouth; no sooner did the guard see it, than he made furious signs to him +to put it out. + +"Dear me, he'll march me off to prison, and perhaps to Siberia!" +exclaimed our verdant friend, hastily throwing the cigar on the ground. +As we passed, I happened to turn round, when I beheld the long guard +stalking rapidly towards the still burning weed; he seized it, and, +placing it between his lips, coolly marched back to his sentry-box, +where he continued smoking as if it were his own lawful property. + +These guards are said to be great rogues. I suspect he would have +dowsed his glim in no little hurry if one of his officers had hove in +sight. + +Passed a troop of Cossacks of the Don, mounted on the most rugged, +roughly-caparisoned little steeds, looking as if just caught wild from +the steppes. They act as the cavalry police of the city. They are +little dark fellows, and wear fur caps with red tops to them, long brown +caftans or coats, and yellow boots; having in their hands long tapering +lances, with which they would, doubtless, prick a man in a street +disturbance, or on any other occasion, with the slightest possible +compunction. + +When we first arrived, the houses, and even the streets, had an oveny +smell, which showed us how hot it had been and must often be in summer. +The westerly wind has now cooled the air, and made it very pleasant. +The Russian wheaten bread is excellent, very light and pure, made up in +long loaves or oblong rolls. We were shown a loaf which came from +Moscow, made in the shape of a basket with a handle. A housewife +returning from market hangs half a dozen of them on her arm. The bread +of peasants is very different; it is made of rye, very brown--almost +black, very close, heavy, and sour. They are, however, very fond of it, +and so are even the upper classes, who seldom make a meal without taking +some. + +The streets, as one drives about, seem interminable,--long wide avenues +of trees with gardens and places extending away at right angles in all +directions. What dreary, hopeless work for a poor fellow on foot on a +hot day, who has lost his way, to find it again! + +They are here called lines, like the avenues of New York, Cousin Giles +says. One is directed to the fifteenth or sixteenth line. Most of the +private residences here are in flats--few people have a house to +themselves. The entrance is either at the side of an archway, or from a +quadrangle round which the houses are built. + +At the north end of the iron bridge stands a shrine, with the picture of +the Virgin Mary on it, before which tapers are constantly burning. +Every one who passes, belonging to the Greek Church, takes off his hat +and rapidly and energetically crosses himself; drosky drivers, soldiers, +peasants, rein up their horses, even going at full speed, and perform +their acts of devotion. People on foot stop and bow and cross +themselves,--some scarcely breaking off a conversation, while others +kneel before the altar and continue some minutes, if not in prayer, at +all events in the attitude of devotion. This end of the bridge turns on +pivots, to allow vessels to pass up and down. + +In the streets are seen a number of pigeons, whom no one disturbs. The +Russians have a superstitious veneration for them, believing, I fancy, +that they are inhabited by the souls of their departed relatives. We, +however, had a pigeon pie at the hotel. Fruit is very dear here. We +were asked a silver rouble for a basket of strawberries, almost spoilt, +and two roubles for a melon. + +We saw some excellent figures of native costumes. Three roubles were +asked for each. One of the late Emperor cost four roubles, the +additional rouble being put on in compliment to his Majesty. It would +be disrespectful to sell even a dead emperor at as low a price as a +living subject. + +In every quarter of the city, over the police stations, at which the +thin halberd-armed guards are posted, are watch-towers. A man is +stationed at the top, which is fitted with a telegraph, to give notice +either of a fire or a flood. Fires may occur any day--floods in the +spring chiefly, from the rapid melting of the snows of winter. Red +flags tell of coming floods; black-striped balls by day, and lamps by +night, of fire. + +An omnibus, probably built in England, passed us with four horses; a +postilion, dressed in a drosky driver's hat and long coat, rode the +leaders, while another man in a similar costume sat on the box to steer +the wheelers. The omnibuses are painted black or dark red--very +sombre-looking conveyances, making one think of prison-vans or hearses. +Some of the little country carts are curious-looking affairs. They are +built with ribs, and look like a boat with the stem and stern cut off; +the hind wheels are kept on by a bow, one end of which comes out from +the side of the cart, and the other presses the axle. + +We remarked the washing stages on the Neva. In the centre is a long +opening, at which the women stand and dip in the unfortunate garments to +be cleansed, and batter them with a mallet. + +There are also large stages with buildings on them for swimming baths. +On one we saw "Swimming School," written in German. A foot regiment +passed us with black-and-brass helmets, dark-drab long coats, black +belts and scabbards. They had a very sombre appearance, but were +fine-looking fellows, evidently fit for service. + +A number of wood boats are unloading at the quays. They are huge +flat-bottomed barges, of white planks slightly fastened together. They +are broken up and burnt like their cargo. The wood they bring is +chiefly birch, and is cut up in pieces fit for the stove. The canals +are crowded in some places with these boats. A number of vessels, +chiefly Dutch, were unloading at the quays close to the Winter Palace; +but not a particle of mercantile dirt or litter was to be seen. Carts +came and quickly transported the cargo to less polished regions. It +took us just two minutes and a half to walk rapidly from one end of the +Winter Palace to the other. That does not seem much, but let any one +try how much ground he can get over in that time at a walk, and it will +give him a good idea of the extent of the building. + +Droskies can be hired at a very cheap rate. For less than sixpence one +may go from one end of the city to the other, and that is no trifling +distance. + +The peasant women whom we have seen in the city are dressed in rough +greatcoats and boots, with coloured handkerchiefs tied over their heads +and under their chins. Their appearance is not attractive. + +On Sunday we went to the church of the English Factory, of which Dr Law +has been minister for many years. The outside is like a house. The +residence of the minister is under it. There is also a library attached +to it. The church itself is a very handsome hall. The ladies sit on +one side, the men on the other. Several persons in Russian uniforms +were there. Their parents probably were English, and, though they have +entered the Russian service, they are allowed to adhere to their own +form of worship. + +We find the Russian language perfectly unpronounceable. It is said to +be like Hindustanee; for instance, a stick is _palka_ in Russian, and +_palkee_ in Hindustanee, and there are numerous words equally alike in +the two languages. It is very rich, we are told. There are but few +words expressing the same thing. In English we say a man, a dog, and a +tree dies; the Russians say a man dies, or rather departs, a dog +perishes, a tree withers. This shows that, heathens though they were +when their language was invented, they must have believed in the +immortality of the soul. + +The late Emperor disliked drinking and smoking. If either a military or +civil officer was known by him to have been intoxicated, from that +moment his promotion was stopped, if even he escaped being dismissed +immediately from his office. The Emperor passed an edict prohibiting +smoking in railway carriages. On one occasion, the Grand Duke Michael, +who was going a short distance with a party of friends by the train, +appeared on the platform with a cigar in his mouth, but threw it away +before stepping into the carriage. This he did to show his respect for +the Emperor's edict, for no one would have ventured to stop him had he +smoked on. Even then most of the imperial family smoked, as does the +present Emperor. + +Log-huts, very similar to those used in Canada, are the usual +habitations of Russian peasants. They are found close up to that mighty +city of Saint Petersburg. A groove is cut in the length of the log, +into which the log above it is let. The interstices are filled with +moss. They are considered far warmer than any brick or stone houses. +Sometimes they are boarded over, and when painted gaily have a cheerful +aspect. Ordinary plank houses are used in summer, but would scarcely be +habitable in winter. + +When people during the winter are travelling in Russia, they do not use +hot bricks or water-bottles, as the Canadians do, for their feet, but +wear very thick fur boots, made of ample size, so as in no way to impede +the circulation of the blood. A tight boot is painful and dangerous, +and many a person in consequence has lost a foot, even his life. When +walking, India-rubber goloshes are worn, which are taken off when a +person enters a house. A very large thick fur cloak, in which a person +is completely enveloped, is worn when travelling. It is thrown down in +a corner as soon as a person enters a house, where it lies like a heap +of dirty clothes. + +Spitting is as common among all classes as we heat that it is in +America. Carpets have only of late years been introduced into the +houses of the opulent, but people spit over them just as they did over +their brick floors. A refined sort of spittoon has been introduced, +with a high handle. By touching a spring the lid flies open, and drops +again when made use of. Uncle Giles says the inventor would have done +better to have invented some means of breaking his countrymen off a +dirty habit; perhaps, however, the hot air in the rooms, and the sharp +air outside, may have something to do with it. + +The English here say that the habits of social life among the Russians +have very much improved since they mixed with them: I do not know what +view the Russians take of the case. + +Thirty years ago, palaces and public offices were alike dirty in the +extreme; but the Emperor Alexander, after his visit to England, +introduced great improvements. Now the public offices at Saint +Petersburg, at all events, are kept fairly clean. I do not think, +however, that the housemaid has got so far south as Moscow; it is too +holy a place, in a Russian's idea, to make cleanliness necessary. + +An English friend told us that once upon a time he went to pay a visit +to a great man, who lived in a great house. The entrance-hall was +unspeakably dirty; round it, against the walls, were a number of +ottomans, on which slept numerous shock-headed, sandal-footed, +long-coated, red-shirted serfs, with their master's fur cloaks rolled up +as pillows. The next hall was scarcely cleaner. The third was +gorgeously furnished, but no neat-handed housemaid, apparently, ever +entered to sweep the floors or brush away the cobwebs. An ante-room was +a shade better; while the great man's private chamber looked really +comfortable, as if he had imbibed a sufficient regard for cleanliness to +keep himself out of the dirt. + +Perhaps with the same object the late Emperor introduced foot pavements +in Saint Petersburg. Formerly foot passengers had to pick their way +from stone to stone among rivulets of mud. English ladies used to be +much admired for the propriety of their walking dresses; now, on account +of the undue length of their gowns, they kick up so great a dust that it +is most unpleasant to walk behind them. Uncle Giles says, "Perhaps they +do it to keep off danglers." Russian ladies never think of walking in +the city--the streets of Saint Petersburg, in truth, do not tempt them; +in spring and autumn they are thick with mud, in summer with the finest +dust. + +The ladies of Russia are, like those in other countries, very fond of +lap-dogs, and give very high prices for them. The groom who came over +with us brought two dozen, shut up in hen-coops, and expected to get 20 +pounds at least for each of them. + +The wealthy Russians generally give enormous prices for luxuries. Our +captain on one voyage brought over some oysters, which sold, he told us, +at fourpence each. They are not to be found in the Baltic. He made +about nine hundred per cent, by them. Saint Petersburg is very ill +supplied with salt-water fish; there are neither lobsters nor flatfish. + +It is generally supposed in England that the very finest tea is to be +found in Russia, brought all the way overland from China. This an +English friend assured us is a mistake. There is certainly very good +tea in Russia, but what costs there ten shillings is not superior to +what can be bought in England at from four to five shillings. Very +large quantities of very bad tea are smuggled over the German frontier, +a large proportion probably having come round from China by sea, and not +considered good enough for the English market. + +Our friend on one occasion, being on his way home overland, having +missed the diligence, had to stop a day at Tilsit, a place celebrated +for the Articles of Peace signed there between Napoleon and the Allies. +While wandering round the town, he saw large storehouses with chests +piled upon chests of tea. He asked where all the tea was to go. Some +people would not answer, but others told him that Russian merchants came +and bought it, and carried it away over the frontier. Large quantities +used to be smuggled through Finland, which has different custom +regulations to those of Russia. A light duty only was charged on tea in +that country, but how to get it into Russia was the question. To effect +this, logs of wood were hollowed out, filled with tea, and floated down +the streams. Carts loaded with casks of apples entered the country; +inside the casks were chests of tea. This sort of smuggling just suited +the taste and enterprise of a Russian peasant. + +Once upon a time, the cart of an unfortunate smuggler broke down in +front of the Emperor's palace. Not only did the cart break, but so did +the casks of apples, and out rolled the chests of tea. The affrighted +smugglers fled, and left their property to the police, whose samovars +did not probably smoke the less merrily in consequence. At all events, +the _contretemps_ opened the eyes of the Emperor somewhat to the folly +of having high restrictive duties with a frontier so enormous as that of +Russia; but, whatever were his plans of reform, the war and death cut +them short. Large quantities of tea are at the present time imported +into the neighbouring German ports, for the acknowledged object of +sending them into Russia. + +Of course, as is to be expected, there is much bribery and corruption in +all departments of Government. An officer of the Guards, Count ---, was +appointed chief of the Custom-house. He had not much practical +knowledge of business, but he resolved to make amends for his deficiency +in that respect by looking into things with his own eyes. Once upon a +time the daughter of one of his subordinates was married, and he was +invited to the feast. Now, on so important an occasion, if a man has +not a house of his own large enough to entertain his guests, he borrows +one from a friend. On this occasion the father of the bride borrowed +one from an official in his own department. When Count --- entered, he +admired the furniture and the rooms, and everything in it. + +"Of course you have hired this; to whom does it belong?" + +"It belongs to my friend So-and-so; he has lent it to me," was the +answer. + +"Ho, ho!" thought the Count. "So-and-so must have a fine private +fortune, or else he must have the knack of fingering large bribes." + +He consequently watched the unsuspecting So-and-so very narrowly, and +soon discovered that he had fingers of a most tenacious description, +which easily accounted for his handsome income. So-and-so, to his +surprise, found himself one fine morning dismissed from his office, and +compelled to retire into well-merited poverty and disgrace. + +The Russians are at all times civil to strangers, and even during the +war none of the English who remained were ever insulted by them. The +English merchants, indeed, who have long resided in the country, were +allowed to move about as they liked, and several even resided at +Peterhoff, in sight of the British fleet. The only people who ever said +a word against them were some Prussians, whose direct trade was injured +by the war. Prussia herself, however, benefited by the transit of goods +across her frontier. + +The mode of heating houses has been very much improved of late years. +The best houses have now fireplaces, as well as stoves, which add much +to the ventilation of the rooms. The stoves are made of brick; they are +peculiar to the country, and may be called air-stoves. The fresh air is +introduced by pipes from the outside, and, passing over the stove, is +conveyed in other pipes through the house. The air also passes over a +plate of iron, which is sprinkled sometimes with plain water, or by the +more luxurious with rose-water. By depressing or elevating this plate, +a current of air is sent through the room. + +All the rooms have double windows; the inside one is removed in summer-- +not the outside one, as in Canada. If the air was allowed to get in +between the two windows, the glass would become permanently covered with +frost. To prevent this, a glass panel, which opens at both ends, is +introduced between the two windows, and through this the room is aired. +Great care is taken not to begin to heat the rooms till the second +window is put in, or the glass in this case also would become coated +with ice, and would remain so all the winter. + +The Russian peasants are very economical in their mode of cooking. They +are horrified at seeing the broth in which a leg of mutton is boiled +thrown away, as is too often done in England. They will make a dish out +of almost any of the herbs of the field, or of birds, beasts, or +creeping things. They make all sorts of fish soups, of which they are +especially fond; so, indeed, are the rich. All classes have an especial +affection for the black rye bread of the country. We found it very +sour, though I daresay habit might make one like it. All classes use +porridges of every description. Buck-wheat is used for this purpose, as +also to make cakes, as in America. What we call manna croup is also +used in a variety of ways. A favourite fish among the higher classes is +the sterlet, a sort of sturgeon; soup is made of it, but it is very +expensive. + +Good as some of the police regulations are, others are very absurd. If +a person is wounded or otherwise injured, no one may go near him; for, +if the wounded man should die, the person who went to help him would be +carried off to prison, and certainly be tried for the murder. An +acquaintance told us that one day in winter he saw from the window of a +hotel, where he was standing with a friend, an English lady driving in a +sledge; at that moment a heavy sledge drove against it, upsetting it, +and severely injuring her. A policeman was on the point of seizing her +sledge, and would have taken it and herself to the police office, where, +to a certainty, she would have died. There was not a moment for +thought. His friend knocked down the policeman and then ran off, while +he jumped into the sledge and drove off to a hotel, whence he sent for +the lady's husband. The lady was ill for many weeks. He never heard +anything more of the knocked-down policeman, who probably, after picking +himself up, was content with the capture of the heavy sledge which had +committed the mischief. + +We find that by going to Saint Petersburg we have lost two hours of +time, but, as we hope to return home, we shall get it back again. The +Russians, it must be remembered, in their love for Conservatism, keep +the old style of time, which is about ten days behind the new. This +rather puzzled us at first. + +Skating is not in vogue in Russia; indeed, the ice so soon becomes +covered with snow, that there is very little opportunity afforded to +indulge in the pastime. The Montagne-Russe is the great out-of-door +pastime. Huge hills are formed of ice and snow, and placed in a line, +one beyond the other. People climb up to the top of the first with +little sledges. A gentleman sits in front and guides the sledge, a lady +holds on behind, and away they go down one hill, the impetus carrying +them up the other, or a considerable way up it, and thus the whole line +is traversed. So fond are the Russians of the amusement, that they +have, even in summer, wooden mountains with greased roads, which answer +the purpose of ice. + + + +CHAPTER SEVEN. + + Journey to Moscow--Russian Railway--Passengers--Mr Evergreen and his + Hat-box--Refreshment Rooms--Scenes on the Road--Polite Spy--First View + of Moscow--Unromantic Mode of Entering it--Hotel Chollet--The Chinese + City--The Kremlin--The Great Bazaar--Cathedral of Saint Basil--The + Holy Gate--Great Bell of Moscow--Tower of Ivan Veleki--Wonderful View + from the Summit--The Tulip City. + +"And now, my boys, we may pack up and be off for Moscow," exclaimed +Cousin Giles as they reached the Gostiniza Benson, after settling all +the preliminary passport business, without which no one, either of high +or low degree, subject or foreigner, can move from one city to another +in the empire of the Czar. There is no great difficulty in this +passport business, and no great annoyance; but still it is apt to ruffle +the temper of the most mild and patient men, to have to spend the whole +of one day, during their stay in each place, in performing a task which +might well be dispensed with, not to speak of having to disburse several +roubles on each occasion; it is not, therefore, surprising that +everybody who writes about Russia should grumble at the system, and +occupy many pages in abusing it. + +The Moscow railroad station is at the end of the Nevsky Prospect. The +travellers reached it soon after ten o'clock. Only one train started in +the day, so that to miss it was to lose a day. The building is a fine +one. It is entirely under Government superintendence, and the +stationmaster, and ticket-clerks, and porters, and policemen, and guards +are all in military uniform; it makes a person very much inclined to +behave himself. A passenger must get to the station in good time, for +there are all sorts of preliminaries to be gone through. One cannot +jump out of a cab, rush to the ticket-office, sing out, "Porter, bring +along my luggage!" jump into a carriage, and away to Edinburgh or +Holyhead without a question being asked;--oh no! People do not go ahead +quite so fast in the kingdom of the Czar. Before a ticket can be got, +the passport must be shown at one office, where it is stamped; then one +goes over to another office, where it is examined and the ticket +granted,--all in the most deliberate way, rather trying to a person who +fancies that he is late. Then the luggage must be taken to another +place, and a ticket bought for it, and paid for according to the number +of articles; then it must be delivered over the counter at another +place; and lastly, the perplexed traveller is allowed to go on the +platform and select his seat. The carriages are very long, the +entrance, after the American model, being at each end, where there is a +platform, a passage running down the whole length of the carriage, so +that people can pass from one end of the train to the other. The +second-class have seats arranged in rows like those in a church, and are +not very comfortable for a long journey; but the first-class are more +luxurious: at each end there is a small ante-room, then a saloon with +ottomans round it, and the centre compartment is full of large, +luxurious arm-chairs, far enough apart to allow long-legged men to +stretch their legs to the full. The windows are large, and of plate +glass, which, as Harry observed, would be very convenient if there was +anything to look at out of them. Our friends had arranged themselves in +one of the centre compartments, and the lime of departure was at hand, +when Mr Evergreen made his appearance on the platform in a state of +great agitation, first turning to one moustached fierce-looking +official, then to another, appealing in vain to know, as it appeared, +what had become of parts of his luggage. + +"Does any one know the Russian for hat-box?" he exclaimed. +"Hatboxichoff! Hatboxichoff!" he cried in piteous accents. "Dear me, +dear me--there are all my writing things in it, and my letters, and my +money, and my best hat, and my gloves; and I shall be sent to prison as +an impostor, and not be able to appear decent at the coronation, and +have no means of paying my bills, and be starved, and--" + +At that moment he caught sight of Cousin Giles' face. His countenance +brightened up. "Oh, Mr Fairman, I am so glad to see you!--can you help +me?" he cried. + +Cousin Giles asked to see his luggage ticket, and, finding that the same +number of packages which he possessed in all were marked on it, assured +him that there could be no doubt his hat-box was safe. + +Thus assured in his mind, Mr Evergreen took his seat. The ticket is a +long strip of paper, with the names of the chief places on the road +marked on it, and the fares to each of them. The passengers having +taken their places, the military officials waved their hands, and the +long train began to move. + +The view as they left the city was not interesting. Some large +red-brick houses appeared above the low huts in the outskirts, with a +large reed-bordered lagoon, and a wide extent of dead level covered with +low shrubs or rank dry grass. The distance to Moscow is about five +hundred versts, nearly four hundred miles, and for the whole of that +distance there is very little improvement towards picturesque beauty. +Now and then, to be sure, they came to woods of birch or fir, but the +trees were small and widely scattered; still the chief feature was a +dead flat covered with scrub. + +Russia, however, is very far from being a barren and unfruitful country. +There are large tracts near its numerous rivers which yield an abundant +harvest of all descriptions of corn, and there are forests full of the +finest trees, whilst fruits of many descriptions also are produced. +This particular road, however, gives a stranger a very unfavourable +impression of the country; still there were many things to interest our +friends. About a mile, it seemed, from each other were little oblong +wooden cottages, with a square enclosure in the rear and a platform in +front, all so exactly alike that Harry said they looked as if they had +been taken out of some Dutch brobdignag toy-box and placed along the +road. In front of each hut, as the train passed along, appeared a +guard, presenting arms with an iron-headed pike; and so exactly did one +look like the other that Harry said he was certain there must be some +spring underground which made them all pop up as the train passed along. +There must be at least five hundred along the line--every hut, man, +cap, pike, and greatcoat formed after the same model; there were guards, +also, at all the signal stations. Whenever, also, the train stopped, a +fierce-looking guard, in the uniform of the French gendarmes,-- +bright-blue coats, helmets, and silver ornaments,--stood immoveable as +sentries before each of the carriages, to prevent people from doing +anything they ought not to do: altogether there seemed to be a very +wholesome discipline established along the line. At all the +stopping-places there were a number of Swiss-looking cottages, +apparently newly erected; while the bridges and palings, and flights of +steps and banisters, and refreshment booths, and vast long sheds in +which heaps of logs were piled up, all looked as if they had been made +in Switzerland, and were exactly like the models which come in neat +white wooden boxes to England from that country of mountains and snow. +They were very neat, and pretty, and picturesque, but certainly did not +look as if they belonged to the place. + +At every station there are refreshments of some sort. Our friends +observed fruits, raspberries, strawberries, and peaches, though of an +untempting appearance and very dear; and also cakes of various forms, +bread, beer, and of course quass. + +At all the larger stations there are large, long, handsome refreshment +rooms, equal in appearance to those at the large stations in England,-- +there is one for each class. At one of these they stopped for +three-quarters of an hour, when a good dinner was served at about +half-past four. They did not note the name of the place, but Harry +suggested that it must have been _Chudova_, which was one of the +principal places on the road. + +_Chew_! + +"Oh, oh, Harry!" exclaimed Fred as he heard his brother's atrocious pun. + +The tea is excellent at these places; a tumblerful costs ten kopecks, +but a regular tea costs thirty, about fifteen-pence; indeed, the charges +are much the same as in England. Probably at home, more substantial and +better fare is to be got at the same price. + +As soon as the train stops, out get all the passengers, and a very +motley assemblage they form as they pace up and down on the platform. +Uniforms of all sorts predominate, from the modern-coated, richly-laced +officer of the Emperor's guard, to the sombre-dressed rank and file of +the line. There were Circassians and Georgians, and Cossacks of the Don +and Volga, and other remote districts, in blue and silver coats, fur +caps with red tops, and wide trousers, and yellow boots, and gauntlets +on their hands, and jewelled daggers, and chain armour, and carved +scimitars, with black, flashing eyes, and thickly curling glossy beards +and moustaches, their language as well as their appearance telling of +far-off southern regions, which have succumbed before the arms or the +diplomacy of Russia. Then there were Armenians and Persians, men of +peace, intent only on making money, with high-pointed fur caps, long +gowns, full, dark trousers, and waists belted not to carry swords, but +inkhorns; and Tartars with turbans, and rich shawls, and +gold-embroidered slippers; and priests with low-crowned, broad-brimmed +hats, beneath which straggled huge quantities of long light hair, and +long green coats, and crosses rather ostentatiously shown at their +breasts. There were traders, too, from the northern cities of the +Empire, dressed in long dressing-gown-looking coats, more properly +described as dirty than clean, and high boots, and low-crowned hats, and +beards of considerable length and thickness; while the humbler classes, +the mujicks, evidently delighted in pink shirts with their tails worn +outside their trousers, and fastened round their waist with a sash or +belt. These wore caps, and high boots, and long coats, like the rest; +indeed, the inhabitants of Russia may be said to be a long-coated, +boot-wearing population. There were women passengers, but there was +nothing very peculiar in their appearance. The upper classes wore +bonnets, and the lower had handkerchiefs tied over their heads, or caps, +with thick-padded cloaks. They all had brought huge leather pillows, +and cloaks, and shawls, to make themselves comfortable in the carriages. + +No sooner did the train stop than all the men lighted their cigars and +pipes, and began to puff away most assiduously. Our friends were much +amused at seeing a servant bring his master, an old gentleman, his pipe +at every station. It was the servant's business not only to light it +but to draw it up, and the cunning rogue took good care to get as many +whiffs out of it as possible before he removed it from his own mouth. + +"That's what I call smoking made easy," said Harry. "I've heard of a +man being another's mouthpiece, and this old gentleman seems to make use +of his serf for the same purpose." + +Some of the priests wore fur caps and dark gowns, and others had on +broad-brimmed hats and green gowns, with dark overcoats; some had +several crosses on their breasts, frizzy or straggling hair being common +to all. One of them, who was in a first-class carriage, pulled out a +comb and began combing his beard and hair with great assiduity--an +operation more pleasant, doubtless, to himself than to his neighbours. +There was a fine Abasian officer--Abasia is a province bordering on the +Caucasus, conquered by the Russians. He wore a black fur cap with a +red-and-white top to it,--night-cap fashion,--a white coat with +cartridge cases in the breast and trimmed and lined with fur, a +silver-lace belt round his waist, white gloves with fur backs, and green +trousers with a silver stripe down the legs; yellow boots, a curved +scimitar behind, and a richly-jewelled dagger in his belt in front +completed his costume. He was a very fine-looking fellow, and was most +evidently aware of the fact. He was on good terms with every one, and +laughed and chatted with all the officers of rank. Such were some of +the companions our friends had on their journey. + +Mr Evergreen said that he considered it his duty to taste the tea at +each stopping-place, to ascertain whether it was really superior to any +to be found out of China. At some places he took only a tumblerful, but +at others the samovar, with the little teapot on the top of it, and a +small china cup were placed before him, with a tumbler also. Those who +have not drunk tea out of a tumbler may be assured that it is by far the +best way of taking it to quench thirst. The Americans put a lump of ice +into it, which keeps bobbing up against the nose while the hot tea is +being quaffed--also a very agreeable fashion. The result of all this +tea-drinking was, that poor Evergreen could not manage to close his eyes +when night came on, and the rest of his party went to sleep. After some +hours had passed, he was accosted by an officer in uniform. + +"Ah, sir, I see that sleep has fled your eyelids," said the officer in +very good English. + +"Oh, yes; but I can do very well without it," replied Evergreen, +delighted to have some one to talk to; "there is always so much to think +about and interest one in a strange country." + +"Your first visit here, I presume?" said the stranger. + +"Never out of England before," replied Evergreen. + +"What do you think of affairs in general in this country?" asked the +stranger. + +"Very large country--very fine country--inhabitants very polite. Big +city Saint Petersburg. People may not say exactly what they think, I +hear; but that's nothing to me, you know," observed our friend. + +"Oh, that's quite a mistake, my dear sir," replied the stranger; "people +may say exactly what they think, I assure you: no one interferes with +them. Now, for instance, in the friendly way in which we are talking, +one man might unbosom himself to another of his most secret thoughts, +and no harm could come to him." + +"Very pleasant state of society; exactly what I like," said Evergreen, +who thereupon, taking the hint, launched forth on several little bits of +his own family history, with which he was fond of entertaining any +casual acquaintance. + +The strange officer appeared to be listening attentively, and finally +offered to call upon Evergreen and to show him the lions of Moscow. + +Cousin Giles awoke while the conversation was going on, and was +exceedingly amused at what he overheard, especially with the warm way in +which Evergreen accepted the stranger's offer. After the latter had +made numerous inquiries about Cousin Giles, and Fred, and Harry, he got +up and went into another carriage. + +"Wonderfully polite man that was who came and talked to me last night," +observed Evergreen in the morning, after the passengers had rubbed their +eyes and stretched themselves. "I wonder who he can be. A man of some +consequence, I should think." + +Among the passengers were some merchants from the north, who had never +before been at Moscow. They had for some time been putting their heads +out of the windows, and as they caught sight of a few gilt domes and +gaily-coloured roofs, and some convents scattered about, which was all +that was visible of the holy city, they began crossing themselves and +bowing most vigorously. This ceremony lasted till the train rushed into +the station. The luggage was handed out as each person presented his +ticket, and Mr Evergreen found, to his delight, that his hat-box was +safe. A vast number of ishvoshtsticks presented their tickets, and +offered their droskies for hire, and, two being selected, away the whole +party rattled through broadish streets, paved with pebbles, up and down +hill, among gardens, and green-roofed houses, and pink, and yellow, and +grey, and blue walls, till they reached their hotel. + +They had been recommended to go to that of Monsieur Chollet, in the +Grand Lubianka, and they had no reason to regret their choice. Nowhere +could a more civil, active, attentive landlord be found. Every language +seemed to flow with the greatest ease from his tongue. He would be +talking to three or four customers in German, and English, and Italian, +addressing his wife in French, and scolding his servants in their native +Russian, answering fifty questions, giving advice, and receiving +accounts, all in one breath. He did all sorts of things better than any +one else. He went to market, came back and cooked the dinner, mixed the +salad, and in another instant appeared dressed as if for a ball, and +took his place at the head of the table. His dinners were very good, +somewhat in the German fashion; and his rooms were very comfortable, and +excessively clean for Russia. + +As soon as our friends had dressed and breakfasted, they sallied forth +to gain a general view of the city. Evergreen said he thought he ought +to wait for his new acquaintance, who had promised to call; but an +English merchant, who happened to overhear him, assured him that he must +not be delicate on the subject, as the person in question was simply one +of the guards of the train, and that he was employed by the police to +pick up any information he could about passengers. + +"Had he thought you a suspicious character, you would certainly have +been honoured by a visit from him," he added. + +"Dear me, if I had said anything treasonable, I should have been whirled +off to a dungeon to a certainty," exclaimed poor Evergreen, shuddering +at the thought of the danger he had escaped. + +Moscow is one of the most romantic cities in Europe--indeed, there is no +other to be compared with it; but our friends had entered it in so +ordinary, every-day a manner that at first they could hardly persuade +themselves that they had reached a considerable way towards the centre +of Russia, and were really and truly in that far-famed city. + +"Now, my boys, we will steer a course for the Kremlin," cried Cousin +Giles, having taken the bearings of their hotel as they walked along the +street called the Grand Lubianka. + +Their course was nearly a straight one. In a little time, crossing an +open space, they found themselves before a line of fortified walls, and +a gateway, such as they might have expected to see in a picture of China +or Tartary, with strange-looking eastern turrets, and domes, and roofs +rising within them. + +"This must be the Chinese city we have heard of," said Cousin Giles. + +So it was. It is a city within a city. It has three sides, the walls +of the Kremlin making the fourth. They passed through the gateway and +found themselves in a narrow street, the buildings on either side of +them having a still more Chinese appearance. On the left was a little +church, with numerous parti-coloured domes, and minarets, and towers, +and outside staircases leading nowhere, and railings, and balconies, and +little excrescences of roofs, altogether forming an edifice much more +like a Chinese than a Christian temple. Close to it, on the left, they +saw a long open space, just inside the walls, crowded with people of the +lowest order, with booths on either side. This was what may be called +the rag fair of Moscow. The booths or shops contain all the articles +either for dress or household purposes used by the mujicks. The sellers +and purchasers were all talking and laughing, and haggling and +chattering away as if the affairs of the nation depended on what they +were about, and yet probably a few kopecks would have paid for any one +of the articles bought or sold. At the end of the street the travellers +came to the entrance of the great bazaar of Moscow, and as they looked +down its numerous long alleys, glazed over at the top, they saw lines of +little shops,--jewellers, and silversmiths, and makers of images, and +hatters, and shoemakers, and tinmen, and trunk-makers, and other workers +in leather, and head-dress makers, and blacksmiths, and toy sellers,-- +indeed, it would be difficult to enumerate all the various trades and +handicrafts there represented, each trade being in a row by itself. +Each shop was little more than a recess, with a counter in front of it, +before which the shopmen stood, praising in loud voices their wares, and +inviting passers-by to stop and inspect them. No time, however, was +spent at the bazaar, for across a wide open space appeared a high +pinnacled wall, with a line of curious green-pointed roofed towers, with +golden crescents surmounted by crosses on their summits, and two +gateways up a steep slope. Over the walls appeared a confused mass of +golden and blue-and-silver domes, and spires, and towers, and green +roofs, and crescents, and crosses, and gold and silver chains, +glittering in the sun, altogether forming a scene such as is pictured in +the _Arabian Nights Entertainments_ or other Oriental romances, but such +as one scarcely expects to find within eight days' easy journey of +sober-minded, old, matter-of-fact England. + +"That must be the Kremlin," exclaimed Fred. "Well, it is a curious +place!" + +"There can be no doubt about it," observed Cousin Giles. "And that gate +to the left, under the high tower, with the lamp and the picture over +it, must be the Holy Gate. Let us go through it. It leads us at once, +I see by the map, to the terrace overlooking the river." As they went +down the place towards the river, they found themselves before a fine +bronze group on a high pedestal. + +"Oh, those must be the statues of the two patriots, Posharskoi, the +general who drove away the Tartars, and Minin, the merchant who devoted +his fortune to the support of the army with which the victory was won. +We will read about them by and by," said Cousin Giles. + +As they stood there, on their right side were the walls of the Kremlin, +on their left the front of the bazaar, while some way beyond appeared a +most extraordinary-looking church, the Cathedral of Saint Basil. It has +nine domes or cupolas,--one large one in the centre, and eight round it, +each one painted of a different colour, with various ornaments; some are +in stripes, some in checks, some red, some blue, some green, while the +structure on which these domes stand consists of all sorts of ins and +outs; windows, and stairs, and pillars, and arches--all, too, of +different colours, green, and yellow, and red predominating. Harry +looked at it for a minute, and then burst into a fit of laughter. + +"Well, that is the funniest building I ever saw," he exclaimed. "It +looks as if it was built up of sentry-boxes, and Hansom's cabs, and +dovecots, and windmills, and pig-sties, and all sorts of other things. +It was built, I see, by Ivan the Cruel, and it is said that he was so +pleased with its strangeness that he put out the eyes of the unfortunate +architect, to prevent his ever building another like it." + +"Pleasant gentleman he must have been," observed Evergreen. "A new way +he took to reward merit." + +"Rather an old way," said Cousin Giles. "I do not think that any +sovereign would venture on such a proceeding now-a-days." + +Putting off their visit to the bizarre little cathedral, they turned to +the right through the Sacred Gate. Mr Evergreen did not observe that +every one passing under it took off his hat, and very nearly got a prod +from the sentry's bayonet for his neglect of that ceremony. The story +goes, that the picture over the gateway was unscorched by fire, and that +the lamp continued burning all the time the French were in occupation of +the city, untrimmed and unattended. A newly-recruited regiment of +soldiers, without arms, were marching through, and it was curious to +observe each man in succession doff his cap and cross himself as he +passed the spot. High and low, rich and poor, all do the same. The +only persons who neglected the duty were some wild-looking, dark-eyed +lads, whose marked features and olive complexions at once proclaimed +them to be Zingari or gipsies, of whom a great number are found in +Russia. Moscow is said, like Rome, to stand on seven hills, of which +that occupied by the Kremlin is the highest. It is not, however, as +much as a hundred feet above the Moscowa, which flows in a horseshoe +form directly to the south of it. It is enclosed by four walls of +irregular length--that at the west end being so short that the space it +occupies is almost triangular. Round the walls are about eighteen +towers, which vary in shape and height, though they all have +high-pointed roofs covered with green tiles. Outside the walls are +gardens with grass, and trees, and gravel walks. In the interior, on +the south side, is a magnificent esplanade and terrace overlooking the +river, and the strange jumble of coloured buildings which compose the +city. The rest of the ground is occupied with a collection of churches +of all shapes and sizes and colours, and towers, and convents, and +palaces. One palace, however, surpasses them all in beauty and size, +though its shining white walls and richly-carved facade and general +bran-new appearance look sadly out of place among all the venerable, +grotesque, many-coloured, odd-shaped, Byzantine edifices which are +dotted about in its neighbourhood. It looks like some huge intruder +into the place, which all the old inhabitants are collecting to put +forth again; or like an emu in a poultry-yard, at which all the +parti-coloured cocks and hens and ducks are crowing, and cackling, and +quacking, in a vain endeavour to frighten him out. It required more +than one visit to the spot before our friends could learn the geography +of the place, and distinguish the numerous churches of all sizes, and +heights, and shapes, and varieties of outside and inside adornment. The +chief, called the Cathedral, has its walls painted with subjects taken +from Scripture, which to the purer taste of Protestants appear shocking +and blasphemous. However, our travellers did not then attend to the +details of the strange occupants of the Kremlin. Their object was to +obtain a comprehensive view of the city from the summit of that gaunt +old monster, the Tower of Ivan Veleki. They first, however, examined +the huge bell which stands on a pedestal at its foot. This bell was +once suspended on the top of a tower, which was burnt, and the bell in +its fall had a little piece broken out of it. When they got up to it, +they found that this little piece was far too heavy for any ten men to +lift, and that the gap it left was big enough for a man to walk through. + +The door of the old tower was open, and they mounted a well-conditioned +flight of circular steps towards the summit. Having climbed to the top +of the first flight, they passed through a door into another tower, +where there hung a peal of huge bells,--one more vast than the rest, +which, on being struck, gave forth a wondrously musical sound. + +"I should not like to be near that fellow while he was ringing," cried +Harry; "he would make noise enough to deafen a rhinoceros." + +They did not stop to hear those famous bells, but climbed on till they +stood high above all the surrounding edifices. As they gazed forth from +the narrow stone balcony which ran round the dome, they beheld rising on +every side a sea of spires, domes, cupolas, minarets, towers, and roofs +of every conceivable colour, shape, and size, not altogether unlike a +vast garden filled with brobdignagian tulips, but with more hues than +any tulip bed ever possessed; and, in addition to the many-coloured +tints of the rainbow, there appeared numberless balls of burnished gold +and silver, glittering brightly in the sun. + +Cousin Giles first ascertained their position by his compass. Turning +to the north, they observed in that direction fewer churches, but +numerous villas and lines of wood, with the arid steppe beyond them. To +the south-west arose the Sparrow Hills, those celebrated heights whence +Napoleon and his then victorious army first caught sight of that magic +city which they deemed was soon to be the reward of all their toils, but +yet which, ere many days had passed, was to prove the cause of their +destruction. In the same direction the Moscowa was seen flowing down +towards the city, to circle round a portion of it under the walls of the +Kremlin, and then to run off again at an acute angle to the east. To +the south, on a plain near the banks of the river, rose high above other +buildings the red towers and walls of the Donskoy Convent, several other +convents, carefully painted of different colours, being scattered about. + +"The birds which have their nests there can have no fear of mistaking +their proper abodes on their return from their morning flight," observed +Harry, who generally formed quaint notions on what he saw. + +Directly below them were the numerous and strange gold, and black, and +blue, and green domes of the churches of the Kremlin,--its dark-green +pointed towers, its wide gravelled esplanade, the roofs of its vast +palaces and public buildings, its belt of turreted walls and gardens +with their green lawns and shade-giving trees; but stranger still was +the city itself, with its thousands of coloured cupolas, turrets, domes, +spires, roofs, and walls. To define this strangeness more clearly, +there were domes of bright-blue, with golden stars and golden chains +hanging from the golden crosses which surmounted them. There were some +domes of size so vast that they looked like huge mountains of gold; some +were of dark blue, and others of green and gold; some were black, and +others shone like burnished steel; some were perfectly white, others +grey, and others of the lightest blue, scarcely to be distinguished from +the tint of the azure expanse amid which they reared their heads, except +by the golden ball and cross and glittering chains above their summits. + +Again, some of the domes were of red and green stripes, and some of +bright yellow, and pale yellow, and red; and some towers were surmounted +by gigantic crowns, open and outspreading, as well as globe-like. The +roofs and walls also exhibited a strange difference in their tints, +though green, and red, and black, and grey, and brown predominated among +the first; while the latter were white, and buff, and green, and blue, +and deep red, and pink. Truly it was a strange scene, such as they had +never before beheld, and could scarcely hope to behold elsewhere. + +They returned to the top of the tower again in the evening, just as the +setting sun was throwing his glory giving rays across this +richly-jewelled expanse, which shone forth in a perfect blaze of light, +coloured by every hue of which the rainbow can boast. + +It is difficult to imagine the vast number of domes and cupolas which +meet the eye in this strange city. There are said to be a thousand +churches, though probably there are not so many. Few of these churches +have less than five domes, and some have ten. Each tower also has a +dome on its top, surmounted by a golden cross and chains. A large +proportion of these domes are covered with gold, and some with sheets of +silver; the others are either black and white, or of the various hues +already described. Moscow may, indeed, most properly be called the +Golden City. The only rule which the church architect here appears to +observe is, to endeavour to make every new church as dissimilar as +possible to every other existing in the city, in colour, shape, and +size; yet they all evidently belong to the same style. + +Altogether the venerable Kremlin and the buildings it contains, with the +mass of coloured edifices which surround it, form one of the strangest +architectural jumbles in the universe. + + + +CHAPTER EIGHT. + + Visit to the Imperial Palace in the Kremlin--The Granovitaya. + Palata--The Terema, or Ancient Palace of the Czars--Cathedral of + Uspensky Sabor--Rarity of Good Paintings in the Russian Churches-- + Public Discussions on Religion--Traps for the Unwary--Procession of + Russian Monks--New Church of Saint Saviour--Preparations for the + Coronation--Cathedral of Saint Basil--Sealing up Doors of Shops at + Night--Shopmen bowing to Saints--Bazaar--Chinese City--Russian + Vehicles. + +Our friends got a good general idea of the city during the first day of +their residence in it. The next day they obtained tickets of admission +to the Imperial Palaces in the Kremlin, through a gentleman to whom +Cousin Giles had letters. They were accompanied in their visit by some +French friends of his. They were first shown the private rooms of the +Emperor and Empress, which had just been refurnished for their reception +after the coronation. All these rooms were on the ground floor. In the +centre of each was a large square pillar, supporting the storey above. +These pillars, with several screens and curtains in each room, made them +appear small and positively cosy, such as may be found in the house of +moderate size belonging to any lady or gentleman of somewhat luxurious +habits. English people would probably have chosen a more airy situation +for their private abode than the ground floor; but from the lowness of +these rooms they are more easily warmed in winter, and from their being +vaulted they are cooler in summer. After visiting the private rooms, +their guide conducted them up-stairs, when they passed through several +fine halls, similar in grandeur to those in the Hermitage at Saint +Petersburg, and along galleries filled with pictures of very doubtful +merit. + +Through an opening in the new palace they walked into one of the old +palaces called the Granovitaya Palata. The second floor is occupied +entirely by the coronation hall of the Emperors. It is a low, vaulted +chamber, the arches resting on a huge square pillar in the centre. Here +the Emperor, clothed in royal robes, for the first time after his +coronation, sits in state, surrounded by his nobles, eating his dinner. + +"Ah, I see emperors have to eat like other people," observed Harry when +he was told this. "I wonder, now, what the new Emperor will have for +dinner." + +By far the most interesting building in the Kremlin is the ancient +palace of the Czars, called the Terema. It is complete as a residence +in itself, but the halls and sleeping-rooms are remarkably small +compared to those of the huge modern edifice by its side. The walls +from top to bottom are covered with the most strange arabesque devices +which imagination could design--birds, beasts, and fish, interwoven with +leaves and sea-weed of every description. In each room a different tint +predominates, although the same style of ornament is carried throughout, +and the same colours are to be found in each. Thus there is the green +room, the blue room, and the yellow room, and many other coloured rooms. +The ornaments on the banisters, screens, railings, and cornices are +great wooden heads of beasts--lions, or tigers, or monsters of some +sort. The part of the walls enclosing the stoves are of curiously +coloured tiles; indeed, the whole building is a most bizarre, strange +place, a perfect specimen of a Byzantine palace. In variety of +colouring it is something like the Alhambra, but, though equally +wonderful, it is barbarous in the extreme compared to that celebrated +edifice of Southern Spain. Our travellers climbed to the top of this +strange little palace, and went out on the roof, whence they looked down +on a whole mass of golden and coloured domes and minarets, a +considerable number of them belonging to the smallest and most ancient +church in the Kremlin. In the Granovitaya Palata is a window, at which +the Emperor shows himself on state occasions to the troops, drawn up on +the parade. It is one of the windows of the Hall of Justice, and here +suppliants used to be drawn up in a basket, to present their petitions +and to hear judgment pronounced. + +"It would have been a convenient way of getting rid of a troublesome +petitioner to let it and the petitioner come down together by the run, +as you would say, Cousin Giles," observed Fred, laughing. "Some such +idea was probably in the minds of the inventors of the custom." + +From the old palaces the party proceeded to the Treasury. It is +beautifully arranged, and full of arms and armour of all ages--the +coats, and boots, and hats, or crowns, or helmets, and swords, or +battle-axes of all the Czars who ever sat on the throne of Russia. Some +of the crowns, or other head-pieces, are literally covered with jewels, +placed as close together as the setting will allow. Most of them are +rather curious than elegant; indeed, they nearly all look as if they +belonged to a barbarous age and people. + +Among other curious things there is a globe, studded with jewels, sent +by the Greek Emperor to Prince Waldemar, and the crown of the King of +Georgia, the diamond crown of Peter the Great, and the throne on which +Peter and his brother, both children at the time, were placed when he +was crowned. There is a curtain at the back, behind which their mother +stood, and, putting her hands through it, held them in, and guided them +to make the proper signs at the right moment, which movements caused +much wonder and admiration among the admiring multitude. + +In the armoury is the chair of Charles the Twelfth of Sweden. It is +like a litter, somewhat rudely constructed, or rather can be used as a +chair or litter by turns, having poles at the side by which it is +carried. There are some battered-looking kettle-drums, one belonging to +the same monarch. They were part of the spoils taken by Peter the Great +at the celebrated battle of Pultova, when the Russians at length gained +a victory over the Swedes, and Charles himself, hitherto victorious, was +obliged to seek safety in flight. The most curious articles in the +Museum are, however, the carriages, specimens of which are preserved +from the earliest times in which they were used. They are, as may be +supposed, huge, lumbering, gingerbread, lord-mayor-looking affairs. In +some the coach-box is several yards from the body, and the hind seat is +as many from it at the other end. There is a patriarch's carriage, like +a huge square trunk, and the travelling carriage of Catherine, which has +a table in the centre, and is very like a modern saloon railway +carriage. It is placed on runners instead of wheels, and could only +have been used in winter. Probably in her day the roads would not have +encouraged summer travelling. + +From thence the friends went to the Uspensky Sabor, the cathedral church +in which the Emperors are crowned. The lofty roof is supported by four +round pillars, covered from capital to base with sheets of gold and +paintings. There is not a particle of the church which is not thus +ornamented. The effect is rich in the extreme, at the same time bizarre +and barbaric. There are five cupolas, with the faces of saints looking +down from each. An artist was making a drawing of the interior, +introducing the coronation--as it was to be. The picture was for the +Emperor. The outside of this church is ornamented with subjects totally +at variance with anything like a pure taste. There are several other +churches near it, all of which were being enclosed so as to form a +spacious court, where the ceremony of the Emperor's coronation was to +take place. Every available space was being filled with galleries to +hold spectators. Through this court he was to walk from the cathedral +to the palace. + +The party then visited all the churches in the Kremlin in succession. +The interior walls are mostly covered with gilding and pictures of +saints, from base to cupola. In some of them, which are dimly lighted +with tapers, priests, in their gorgeous vestments, were chanting, with +fine sonorous voices, the evening service; incense was being waved, and +people from all sides were rushing in and bowing and crossing +themselves, and as quickly rushing out again. The Russians of the Greek +Church seem to think that much virtue exists in visiting a number of +churches or shrines in quick succession on the same day; and certainly +Moscow offers great facilities to the performance of this ceremony, for +a person cannot go many hundred yards in any direction without meeting +with a church, or chapel, or shrine of some sort. The churches in +Moscow do not generally possess any fine paintings, the pictures of +their saints showing merely the faces and heads. But there is one +church, that of Le Vieux Croyants a la Ragosky, which has a fine +collection. The priests of that church, being intelligent men, value it +properly. + +A gentleman who joined our friends gave them several bits of interesting +information. + +The small old church in the Kremlin was being renovated; nothing but the +whitewashed walls remained. They found that the gilding and paintings +which appeared so rich in the churches were merely fastened to wooden or +canvas panels, and placed against the walls, so that a day was +sufficient to turn a barn into a magnificent cathedral. He pointed out +that the gates were of different sizes. The largest was for the +admission of the Patriarch when he came to the church, the smaller for +that of the ordinary members of the community. + +"Exactly," said Harry, "like the Irish peasant who has a big hole in the +door for the pigs to walk through, and a small one for the chickens. +All people are much alike." + +Religious liberty is very much curbed in the country; but they were told +that every Sunday, at the Church of the Assumption, an open discussion +on matters of religion takes place, chiefly, however, among the persons +who wish to pass for savants. The priests seldom or never attend. It +is suspected that these discussions are encouraged by the Government, +not from any abstract love it possesses for truth, but for the sake of +ascertaining the opinions of those who attend them. If the governing +powers suspect, from any of the opinions he utters, that a person is +likely to prove dangerous, his movements and words are ever afterwards +narrowly watched till he is caught tripping, when he is without further +ceremony marched out of harm's way into Siberia. + +As the party were walking round the Kremlin, they passed, outside the +Arsenal, a number of guns of all sizes, many of them very beautiful. + +"All those guns were taken from us," observed one of their French +friends to Cousin Giles. "How curiously things change in this world! +Now, in early days our two nations were cutting each other's throats, +and yours was friendly to Russia; then lately we have been fighting side +by side against the Russians. Now, behold, here we are walking freely +and at peace within the walls of this ancient capital." + +Thus discoursing, they descended into the gardens on the west side, and +proceeded towards the Church of Saint Saviour, then in course of +erection. + +Their French friend smiled again: "Ah, this church, now, is building to +commemorate the retreat of the French from Russia," he observed. "The +Russians may well boast of what they did in those days, and we are not +likely to forget it." + +The church is the finest in Moscow; the exterior is of white stone, +ornamented with groups of figures in the deepest relief. The +architecture is of the purest Byzantine order. The interior presented +but one vast vault of brick, without pillars or any other support but +the walls to its vast dome. Part of the walls were covered with wood +painted in imitation of marble, to show the effect of the proposed style +of ornament. It is in the form of a Greek cross. The altar is at the +east end. The church is warmed by means of several large stoves, whence +pipes are carried inside the walls all round the building, with vents at +intervals, out of which the hot air can be allowed to escape. Broad +flights of stone steps lead up to the entrances, which are on three +sides. Cousin Giles altogether preferred the edifice to that of the +Isaac Church in Saint Petersburg. + +As our friends were returning homeward, a religious procession passed +by. It consisted of a long line of priests walking two and three +abreast, in somewhat irregular order, bearing banners of gold and +coloured cloths, fringed and bespangled. They were chanting loudly, but +not inharmoniously. Most of them had long straggling locks, which waved +about in the breeze, and gave them a very wild appearance, which was +increased by the careless, independent way in which they walked along. + +The Russian priests seem to consider that, like the Nazarites among the +Jews, an especial virtue exists in the length of their hair. As the +procession passed through the streets, the people rushed out of their +houses, or crowded to the turnings, eager to see the sight. There they +stood, devoutly bowing and crossing themselves, though it was difficult +to say what particular object claimed this respect. Altogether the +procession, from the wild look of the priests, their loud voices, and +the gaudy banners waving in the air, had much more of a heathen than a +Christian character. + +Vast preparations were at this time making for the expected coronation. +The spires and domes and walls of all the churches and public buildings +were being covered with laths, on which to hang the lamps for the +illumination of the city. + +Magnificent arches were being erected all round the large square +opposite the Imperial Theatre; but they were of wood, and, though +painted to look like stone, here and there bits of the pine peeped +forth, showing the unsubstantial nature of the highly-pretentious +fabric. Workmen also crowded the churches, furbishing up gilt +candlesticks, refreshing the features of saints, adding rubies to their +faded lips and lustre to their eyes, cleaning and polishing in all +directions. Cousin Giles said it put him in mind of being behind the +scenes of a theatre,--carpenters, painters, and gilders were everywhere +to be seen; their saws and axes, their trowels and brushes seemed to +have no rest; nor could they afford it, for they were evidently much +behindhand with their preparations. Such furbishing, and painting, and +washing, Moscow never before enjoyed. The whole circuit of the walls of +the Kremlin, and its numerous towers, as well as the buildings in the +interior, were covered, from pinnacle and parapet to the base, with a +network of laths; so was the Cathedral of Saint Basil, and, indeed, +every edifice in the neighbourhood. When the whole was lighted up, they +agreed that the spectacle would be very fine, but they began to doubt +whether it would be worth while to return to the city for the play +itself after having witnessed all the preparations. + +Cousin Giles told his companions that it is said that, when the Empress +Catherine used to make a progress through her dominions, the peasants +were driven up from all quarters towards the high road, and that wooden +houses were run up just before her to represent thriving villages. As +soon as she had passed they were pulled down again and carried on ahead +to do duty a second time, the mujicks, meanwhile, being compelled to +pace up and down before their pretended abodes, as Swiss peasants do +before the pasteboard cottages on the stage. + +People in Moscow were looking forward with eager expectation to the +event of the coronation, and it was supposed that half the great people +of Europe would be there. It did not appear, however, that the +inhabitants were so anxious to see them for their own sakes as they were +to let their houses and lodgings and rooms at hotels at exorbitantly +high prices, every one expecting to reap a fine harvest out of the +pockets of the gaping foreigners. + +The most curious church, perhaps, in the world--the most outrageously +strange of all the bizarre churches of Moscow--is the Cathedral of Saint +Basil, which stands close to the river, at the north end of a broad, +open space outside the walls of the Kremlin, and which space is bounded +on the other side by the Bazaar. It is in the most _outre_ style of +Byzantine architecture. There is a large tower somewhere about the +centre, running up into a spire, and eight other towers round it, with +cupolas on their summits. There is also a ninth tower, which looks like +an excrescence, in the rear. Each of these cupolas and towers is +painted in a different way, and of different colours; some are in +stripes, others in a diamond-shaped pattern, others of a corkscrew +pattern, and some have excrescences like horse-chestnuts covering them. +Then there are galleries and steps, and ins and outs of all sorts, +painted with circles, and arches, and stripes of every possible colour. + +"Well, that is a funny church!" exclaimed Harry, as Fred ran off to find +the keepers to show them the entrance. + +"An odd epithet to bestow on a church," observed Cousin Giles; "but I +cannot find a better." + +Underneath the building there is a chapel, which has no connection with +the upper portion. A flight of steps led them into the building. Each +of the nine domes and the pinnacle covers a separate chapel, which is +again divided by a screen into two parts--one for the priests, the other +for the worshippers. From each of the domes above, a gigantic face of +the Virgin, or of some saint, looks down on those below. The huge, +calm-eyed faces gazing from so great a height have a very curious +effect. In the interior of the pinnacle a dove is seen floating, as it +were, in the air. Every portion of the interior walls of this strange +edifice is covered with the same sort of richly and many-coloured +arabesque designs seen in the old palace, while a sort of gallery runs +round the building, with an opening into all the chapels. + +"A capital hide-and-seek place," exclaimed Harry. "Why, Fred, I would +undertake to dodge round here all my life, and you should not catch me +till I had grown into an old grey-headed man." + +"You might find a more profitable way of spending your earthly +existence," said Cousin Giles; "yet I fear many people come in and go +out of the world, and yet are of very little more use than you would +thus be in their generation." + +"Oh, I know that, Cousin Giles; I am only joking. I want to try how +useful I can be when I grow up, and how much good I can do." + +"You can be useful in many ways, even now," observed their friend. "You +are useful if you set a good example to those with whom you associate. +You are doing God service if you show others that you are guided by His +laws, if you act in obedience to Him, if you confess Him openly before +men. All this can be done at every period of life. The old and young +can and must do it, if they hope for a happy hereafter, if they love the +Saviour who died for them; but more especially the young can do it, +while health and strength and clear unworn intellects are theirs." + +Just after they left the cathedral, the bell of Ivan Veleki tolled forth +the hour of evening, and numbers of shopkeepers, long-coated and +long-bearded, rushed forth from their booths, and commenced a series of +bowings and crossings, looking towards the Holy Gate of the Kremlin, +which was directly in front of them. Having performed this ceremony for +some time, they faced about towards another shrine at the north end of +the square, and went through the same ceremony. By advancing a little +into the open space, they could get a glance at another picture of some +saint, when they bowed and crossed themselves as before. When their +evening's devotions were thus concluded, they went back to close their +shops. Having put up the shutters, or closed the folding-doors which +enclosed the front, one man held a candle, while another, with seal and +sealing-wax, put his signet, with the likeness of his patron saint, to +the door. No padlock or other means of securing it were used. Some +Jews and Tartars, not possessing the same confidence in the protecting +power of the saints, put padlocks on their doors. Very curious affairs +these padlocks are. They have been copied from the Tartars, or rather +from the Chinese. The key is a screw: by taking the screw out, the +padlock shuts; by screwing it in, it opens. As the shrines which claim +the poor Russians' devotion exist in every direction,--indeed, they +cannot walk twenty yards without seeing them,--while they run along on +their daily avocations they are continually bowing and crossing +themselves. The pictures of the saints which adorn these shrines were +probably intended to remind people of their religious duties; but, like +other unwise human inventions, which do not take into consideration the +evil tendencies of the human mind, they have led to a system of +degrading idolatry, while the simple truths of Christianity have been +superseded by a flimsy tissue of falsehoods. Although the members of +the Greek Church are iconoclasts, or image-breakers, and allow no actual +images to be set up on their altars, it must be owned that they pay just +as much adoration to the pictures of their saints as the Roman Catholics +do to the statues of theirs. + +One of the most amusing places our friends visited in Moscow was the +great bazaar in the Chinese City. They made frequent trips through it, +although their purchases were neither very extensive nor expensive. +They bought some slippers made by the Tartars of Kazan, of gold and silk +and silver thread, beautifully worked, and some ornaments of silver and +steel made by the same people, and wooden bowls and spoons used by the +peasants, as well as their leather purses and cotton sashes of many +colours, and winter boots of white felt, and the head-dresses worn by +the women, and a hat such as is worn by ishvoshtsticks, and many other +things, all helping to illustrate the customs of the people. Among them +was a samovar or tea-urn. It is in shape like an ancient urn. In the +centre is a cylinder with a grating at the bottom. The water is held in +the space between the cylinder and the sides of the urn. It is filled +with water, and then a small piece of ignited charcoal is dropped into +the cylinder, which is filled with black charcoal. A chimney is then +placed above the charcoal, which now ignites and boils the water. By +adding fresh charcoal and more water, a supply can be kept up for hours +together. A frame fits on above the chimney, on which the teapot can be +placed, to keep it warm, while a lid, called a damper, is used to put +out the fire. + +These samovars are used on all occasions, and are especially valued by +the peasants at their picnics or open-air tea-parties, of which they are +very fond. They purchased also several prints of the city, and some +very amusing ones descriptive of the battles between the Russians and +the Allies, or the Turks or Circassians, by which it appeared that the +accounts received by the rest of the world must be totally incorrect, as +in all instances, at the Alma, Inkermann, in the Caucasus, the +Muscovites were signally victorious, their enemy flying like chaff +before them. + +The Chinese City, or Kitai Gorod, to the east of the Kremlin, was one of +their favourite resorts. The name is most appropriate; and certainly it +is most unlike any place in Europe. It is enclosed on three sides by a +thick buttressed and round-towered wall, the upper part of which +projects considerably; and altogether, from its strange style of +architecture, it looks as if it had been imported bodily from some city +of the Celestial Empire. The fourth side is formed by the east walls of +the Kremlin, of which the Kitai Gorod appears to have been an outwork. +The interior contains two long streets, and several smaller ones, +besides the truly Oriental bazaar, already spoken of, with its numerous +narrow lanes, running under one vast roof, dirty and mean, and crowded +with shops of every possible description. Tea-sellers, with their +Chinese signboards; paper-sellers, ironmongers, and perfumery and +spices, silks and cottons, and shoes and hats, and trunk-makers and +workers in leather,--indeed it is useless to enumerate all the trades +there carried on. There is generally a row or half a row of the stalls +of each trade together. As visitors pass along, the long-coated dealers +rush eagerly forward, and with bows and grimaces endeavour to induce +them to become customers. Here also the dealers in the holy pictures, +or images, as they are called, are to be found. These pictures have the +faces and hands only shown, the rest being covered with a casing of gold +or silver. They are of all sizes, from two feet to one or two inches +square; but as even for the smallest our friends were asked four +roubles, they declined buying any of them. Here, also, are sold cups +and censers, and all sorts of utensils used in churches. The +travellers, however, were little disposed to become purchasers. + +Near the bazaar stood, ready to start, three or four diligences--huge +black machines, having a vast boot behind, a roomy inside, and a large, +comfortable-looking _coupe_. They were bound for Nishni-Novogorood, +where a large fair was taking place. Several rough-looking carts +followed them, piled up with goods for the same destination. The fair +of Nishni is the largest in Russia, perhaps in the world, at the present +day. Here the merchants from the west meet the traders and producers +from the numerous countries bordering Russia on the east, as well as +from all the Russian provinces, and exchange their various commodities. +Here transactions are arranged not only for the present, but for the +following year, and many a farmer undertakes to deliver timber, and +flax, and hemp still growing thousands of miles away, or hides and wool +yet adhering to the backs of his cattle or sheep on the far-off +prairies, or thousands of sacks of wheat yet ungrown, at Saint +Petersburg, Riga, or Odessa, with every certainty of being able to +fulfil his contract. Our friends were so interested with the account +they heard of Nishni that they were eager to visit it. Russian carts +are curious vehicles, made without a particle of iron. The wheels are +kept on by various contrivances; some have bits of wood from the +projecting edge of the side, into which the ends of the axles fit; +others have bows of wood from the perch, which fit on over the axle +where the linch-pin should be. The carts used for conveying passengers +are covered with an awning of black canvas, and look as if they were +water-tight, with a fair possibility of being made comfortable. + +The travellers had many other things to see, both in and about Moscow, +but they resolved not to delay longer than necessary, as they were +anxious to study more of the manners and customs of the people in the +interior; and they therefore made preparations for their further +progress into the country. + + + +CHAPTER NINE. + + Departure of Exiles for Siberia--The Russian Howard--Vast Exercise + House--Tartar Mosque--The Sparrow Hills--Burning of Moscow-- + Magnificent View of the City--Ennobling of Merchants--The Schoolmaster + in Russia--Decay of the Old Nobility--The Donskoy Convent--Russian + Monks--Their Interpreter--Palace of Petrofsky--Encampment near + Moscow--Preparations for the Coronation Fete--Public Gardens--Zingari + Singers. + +Early on Sunday morning our travellers left then hotel to witness a +painful though interesting sight, the departure of the convicts +condemned to exile in Siberia from the Ragoshky Gate of the city, where +they bid farewell to their relatives and friends. They are first +collected from all parts of the neighbouring country in a large prison +near the city, till they amount to a sufficient number to form a +caravan. Our friends met the melancholy band; clanking their chains, +they moved along at a slow pace through the city. Numbers of people, +chiefly of the lower orders, rushed out of their houses, and presented +them with loaves of bread, biscuits, tobacco, sugar, money, and other +things likely to comfort them on their dreary pilgrimage. After they +had been thus exhibited to the public, they stopped at a wooden shed, +where they were to rest before taking their final departure. There were +about fifty of them, old men and youths, and even women, some of them +young, poor creatures, looking miserable, heart-broken, and forlorn. + +The men were dressed in coarse linen shirts and trousers, and the high +boots generally worn by peasants. Half the head was shaved, and few +wore hat or cap to conceal the sign of their disgrace. Most of them +were heavily manacled, some few only being free of irons. + +In the centre of the building was a platform, on which were piled up the +prisoners' knapsacks and bags of provisions. Round it the gang stood +grouped. While they were there, many persons entered to bring them +offerings of money and food. At one end of the platform was spread out +a large handkerchief, on which the gifts were placed. As each person, +after bowing to the saint which hung in front of the doorway, deposited +his or her piece of money or loaf of bread on the handkerchief, one of +the prisoners, who seemed to take the lead, cried out with a loud voice, +"Unhappy ones, thank the donors!" The whole party then bent their heads +at the same time, and replied, "Thanks be to you, kind and benevolent +sir," or "mother" if a matron was their benefactor. After this, the +visitors being requested to leave the shed, the gang was marshalled by +the man in command, who spoke in a savage voice to the prisoners, and by +his significant gestures was evidently in the habit of striking them. + +The escort consisted of six mounted lancers and about thirty +foot-soldiers. At a sign they stepped out together, and, while many a +sob and groan was heard from the crowd, they commenced their six months' +dreary march towards Siberia at the rate of about twenty versts a day. + +Russia has not been without its Howard; indeed, perhaps that great man +infused his spirit into the bosom of the benevolent Dr Haaz. He, like +Howard, devoted his means, his talents, and energies to ameliorating the +condition of the unhappy prisoners. He had frequently urged on the +authorities that the manacles employed were too heavy for persons of +ordinary strength, but they would not listen to him. At length, the +better to be able to explain the suffering inflicted on the poor +wretches, he had them put on his own limbs, and trudged the whole of the +first day's march alongside the party of exiles. The state to which +even this one day's march reduced him was so strong an argument in +favour of his assertion, that he won his cause; and after that the +chains, except of the greater criminals, were much lightened. + +A few carts, containing stores and some prisoners who were unable to +walk, followed the melancholy cortege. + +"In England many guilty ones escape punishment, but in this country many +innocent ones suffer, I fear," observed Cousin Giles as they returned to +their hotel, very tired after their morning's walk. + +The travellers were told, that persons of rank condemned for political +offences are carried off secretly by the police in closed carriages, +without the power of communicating with their friends; that frequently +they thus disappear, and no one knows whither they are gone. A small +dark carriage, with thick blinds, may be seen, strongly guarded by +horse-soldiers, proceeding towards Siberia, but no one knows whom it +contains. + +The travellers attended the service in the British chapel, where Mr +Gray officiates, and they were surprised to find it so well filled. +There were several persons in Russian uniforms--Englishmen, or the sons +of Englishmen, in either the military or civil service of the Czar, who +are allowed to worship God after the mode of their fathers. By the laws +of Russia no Russian may change his religious profession, but any +stranger entering the country may worship according to his belief--as +may his descendants, although they become naturalised Russians. If, +however, a stranger marries a Russian woman, the children of the +marriage must belong to the Greek Church. Laws, however, cannot change +the mind; and not only has the Greek Church been split into numerous +bodies of sectarians, but there are many who totally dissent from it, an +account of whom our friends afterwards heard. + +Sunday they made a day of rest. + +Monday morning they again commenced sight-seeing. The first place they +visited was the building near the Kremlin having the most extensive roof +without arches in the world, and in which the Emperor is accustomed to +manoeuvre several regiments of cavalry and infantry together. People at +the farther end look like pigmies. The ground was now covered with +lamps, in preparation for the illumination. Their next excursion was to +the Tartar quarter of the city, where there is a Tartar mosque. The +Tartar dwellings are low cottages in wide courtyards. The mosque was of +much the same character, only there was a pigsty at one side of the +yard. In their search for the mosque they entered several courtyards, +where the women, old and young, in striped dressing-gown-looking robes, +hurried away to hide themselves from the strangers. At the usual early +hour the muezzin mounted to the roof of the mosque, and in a loud voice +summoned the faithful to prayer. + +"It is sad," observed Fred, "to find people in the centre of what is +called a Christian land who are totally ignorant of a Saviour." + +"Very sad indeed," replied Cousin Giles; "but if we look at home we +shall find sights still more sad. In London itself there exist +thousands of Englishmen who not only have never heard of the Saviour, +but do not know of the existence of a God. Every year is indeed working +a change, and diminishing their numbers, through the exertions of +christian and philanthropic men; but when you grow older it will be a +subject worthy of your attention, and you should not rest till all in +your native land have the gospel preached to them." + +On their way back they bought some of the rush shoes worn by the +peasants. They are made of rushes which grow on the banks of the Volga. +They are more like sandals than shoes, being fastened on with thongs +round the ankles. Their cost is about twopence a pair. + +After dinner they drove to the Sparrow Hills, about five miles west of +the city. The road was execrable, full of ruts and holes. They passed +the palace of the Empress-Mother, which has some handsome gardens. They +saw also an asylum for the widows and children of decayed merchants. It +is a wide, extended building, with a church in the centre. Russia +contains numerous charitable asylums, generally well conducted. They +are, however, not to be compared to the numberless ostentatious +charities of which our beloved country, with all her shortcomings, may +justly boast. Their carriage took the travellers to the top of the +Sparrow Hills, which are of no great elevation. They slope steeply down +to the Moscowa, which, after passing the city, takes a sharp bend close +to their base, and then runs back again towards the southern end of it. +The view was indeed superb. Below them, on the plain across the river, +was the Donskoy Convent, with its red walls and lofty towers, several +other convents being scattered about here and there. To the right, on +the wooded and sloping banks of the Moscowa, were the Emperor's villa +and many other handsome buildings; and before them the Holy City itself, +its numberless golden and silver domes glittering brightly in the +sunshine, like a mighty pile of precious jewels from the far-famed mines +of Gokonda. On the left, on a wide-extended down, were seen the white +tents of fifty thousand of the choicest troops of Russia, assembled to +do honour to the Emperor at his coronation, or to signify to the people +the power by which he rules. + +"I should very much like to go and look through that camp," exclaimed +Fred; "I want to see if all they say about the Russian troops is true." + +"We will make a point of going there to-morrow," replied Cousin Giles. +"I have no doubt the visit will be an interesting one; but, for my part, +I do not expect to be so interested as I am at present. The whole of +Russia cannot, perhaps, afford a sight more beautiful than the one +before us. Here it was that Napoleon, after marching across Europe, +first beheld the superb city which he hoped in a few hours to make his +own--the bourn he so eagerly sought--the prize of all his toils! How +grievously, yet how righteously, was he disappointed! As he, swelling +with pride and elated with triumph, was gazing at the city from the +west, the Russian army, having already devoted their beloved capital to +destruction, were marching out on the opposite side. In a short time +the city in which he trusted to find shelter for his troops during the +winter burst forth into flames, and a very few days saw him defeated and +a fugitive, and his magnificent army a prey to the rigours of the +climate and the remorseless Cossacks. History cannot afford a more +dreadful picture than the retreat of the French from Moscow, or a +clearer example of the retributive justice of Heaven. Not many years +afterwards the Russians, as allies of the English, paid a visit, as +conquerors, to Paris. The French, united with the English, were lately +on the point of returning the compliment, by looking in on Saint +Petersburg. Heaven grant that neither of them may ever come to London +in any guise but that of friends. To commemorate the retreat from +Moscow, the Russians are now building the Church of Saint Saviour, whose +golden domes we see so conspicuous not far from the towers of the +Kremlin," observed Cousin Giles, pointing it out with his stick. + +After gazing on the interesting scene for some time, the travellers +returned to their carriage. + +In the evening a German gentleman, long resident in Russia, to whom they +had been introduced, gave them several important pieces of information. + +"The late Emperor Nicholas was well aware," he told them, "that his +power rested on very precarious ground, and that, though a despot in +name, he knew that he was in the power of his own nobles. To liberate +himself, he endeavoured to weaken, if not to destroy, the old nobility-- +first by leading them into all sorts of extravagance, and then by +creating a new order between nobles and peasants, who should feel that +they owed their elevation entirely to him. + +"For this purpose he created what he called the Guild of Honourable +Merchants. Every merchant of the first guild who had paid a tax of 150 +per annum for ten years without failure was eligible to belong to it. +The Honourable Merchants are free from all imposts, conscriptions, +etcetera, and pay no taxes. Another mode Nicholas took of ruining the +old nobility was to establish a pawn bank, where they could at all times +pledge then property. By encouraging their extravagance, many were +unable to redeem it, and, being put up for sale, it was bought up by the +Honourable Merchants and other members of the trading community. The +late Emperor also wished to encourage education. By an ukase he ordered +that all children throughout the country should be educated. To effect +this object every priest is bound to have a school attached to his +parish church. In consequence, a considerable number of children do +learn to read; but the ukase cannot make them go to school, and in many +instances the priests are so ignorant and careless that these schools +are of very little use. The present Emperor, it is said, wishes to +encourage liberal institutions. He has erected municipalities in the +towns. In the courts of law three officers are chosen by the Crown, and +three by the municipality, with a president who acts as judge. He is +anxious also to abolish serfdom; but to do so at once, without violence, +is dangerous. He is, however, effecting his object, which his father +also entertained, by slow degrees. When an estate is sold, all the +serfs become free, and in this way a considerable number have been +liberated. No serfs can now be sold: a person may inherit an estate and +the serfs on it. [See Note 1.] Many of the great nobles would willingly +get rid of their serfs if they could. On one of their estates, perhaps, +they are overcrowded, on another they have not a sufficient number to +till the ground or to work their mines; yet they have no power to remove +the serfs of one estate to another, while they must find means for their +support on the spot where they were born. If the peasants were free, +they could literally have more power over them, because they could then +turn them off their estates, and compel them to seek for employment +where it is to be found. Nicholas, by several of his enactments, has +enabled his son to rule with less difficulty than would otherwise have +been the case. By the ruin of some of the principal nobles he has saved +him from the worst enemies of his ancestors, who so frequently proved +their destroyers; and by the creation of a wealthy middle class, every +day improving in education and numbers, he has formed a strong body who +find that it is their interest to support him. When it is no longer +their interest so to do, the whole fabric of Russian government will +crumble to the dust." + +The first excursion our friends made the next morning was to the Donskoy +Convent. It stands on a flat near the Moscowa, and is surrounded with +high brick walls, flanked by lofty towers, all of bright red-brick. It +has entirely the character of an ancient fortress, erected to withstand +the rapid incursions of an enemy's cavalry, though unfit to hold out +against a regular attack. The church, standing in the centre of a wide, +open space, is a lofty pile, with the usual gilt dome; but the +residences of the monks are low, unpretending buildings, on one floor. + +A young monk, in a long dark robe, a broad-brimmed, low-crowned hat, and +dishevelled locks hanging over his shoulders, came forth, and politely +offered to guide the travellers about the convent. Cousin Giles had +engaged a young Englishman to act as their interpreter, and he very much +increased the interest of the scenes they visited, and their means of +acquiring information. + +The monk led them into the interior of the church, which consisted of a +vaulted chamber divided into two parts by a large wooden screen. The +carpenters and gilders and painters were busily at work, painting and +furbishing up the ornaments; but the scene brought forcibly to the minds +of the travellers the preparations for a new play at a theatre. The +monk told them that the large church was so cold in winter that it was +shut up, and that there was a small one, well warmed with stoves, where +they could at that season worship in comfort. He then led them through +the burial-ground, which they found crowded with the tombs of noble +families, and other inhabitants of Moscow and its neighbourhood. This +is the most fashionable burying-place of that part of Russia, and +consequently people are very anxious to have the remains of their +friends placed there, so that, though they could not enjoy good company +when they were alive, they might at all events after their death have +such satisfaction as it might afford. + +The ground was laid out with walks; the tombstones were of every +possible strange device, and crowded together in a way which would have +been far from pleasing to some of the more aristocratic inhabitants in +their lifetime; but the monkish sexton in his own graveyard read the +lesson to visitors, often uttered before, that death is a leveller of +all ranks, and no respecter of persons. + +When the travellers thanked the young moppy-haired monk for his +attention, he replied that it was his duty, as it was his pleasure, to +show his convent, and seemed in no way to expect any remuneration. The +Imperial family, it is said, have no affection for the monkish orders; +indeed, the feeling of dislike is mutual. They predicted the overthrow +of the Russian armies in the Crimea, and the death of the Emperor--the +wish probably being the father of the prophecy. + +In their way through the city the travellers entered an Armenian church. +It was ornamented with pictures of saints, like those of a Roman +Catholic place of worship; but the pulpit was in a conspicuous place, as +if preaching was not altogether neglected; and there were chairs inside +the altar railings for the Patriarch and other ecclesiastical +functionaries. + +The style of ornaments about the church showed that the Armenian +community were either not wealthy or not disposed to spend much money on +the edifice. It, however, spoke of a purer faith than that of the Greek +Church. + +After dining, our friends set out, and drove along the high road to +Saint Petersburg, towards the Petrofsky Palace. Every part of the way, +from the Kremlin to the Gate of Triumph at the entrance of the city, was +lined with scaffolding and seats, in preparation for the coronation, to +enable the lieges "to see great Caesar pass that way" from his palace of +Petrofsky, where he was to reside three days before entering the Holy +City to undergo the ceremony of his coronation. + +The Gate of Triumph, which forms the northern entrance to the city, is +built of stone, after the model of one at Rome, but with a taste which +would make a Roman stare. All the statues and ornaments about it are +painted of every variety of colour, so that it has the appearance of a +wooden structure put up by the rustic inhabitants of some country +village to welcome the lord of the estate. + +The Palace of Petrofsky is itself a curious sight. It is a huge pile, +of a bright red colour, intermingled with white, and covered with every +conceivable device in the way of ornament. It has circular walls +projecting out in front from the main building, in shape and colour very +like lobsters' claws, and there are the brightest green roofs, and +numberless domes, and cupolas, and minarets, and towers, and spires, +covered with burnished gold, which make one suppose that a very rich man +must live within. On a wide, open space in front of the palace, +wonderfully grand preparations were making for a fete which was to be +given to the people on the occasion of the coronation. + +At a short distance before the palace stood a magnificent pavilion, +intended to hold the Imperial family. A little of the woodwork yet +unpainted showed that it was not a solid structure of stone. No people +can equal the Russians in making the false pass for the real. On either +side of the pavilion were others, each of a different style of +architecture, for the use of the chief nobility of the realm. Before +them, at some little distance, were two theatres, in comparison with +which the magnificence of the old fair-going booth of Richardson would +have grown dim. They might be called theatres, but they were only the +semi-part of the theatre; the open common, with the blue sky overhead, +was the space intended for the audience. Then there were several +Montagnes Russe, but, instead of being made of ice and snow, they were +built of wood. They consist of high elevations, facing each other, with +a slope between them; people ascend to the top by steps, where they find +cars of wood. They place themselves in the cars, and then are sent +sliding down one slope with such force that they are propelled up the +opposite slope. + +But this was only a small part of the entertainment prepared for the +people. There were fountains which, instead of throwing up jets of +cold, insipid water, were to spout forth incessantly into huge tanks a +stream of the much-loved vodka, from which all around might draw forth +and drink to their hearts' content. + +What more perfect idea of a terrestrial paradise would a thirsty mujick +seek for than did these preparations afford him? How munificent and +kind must he have considered the Emperor who could provide such an +entertainment for him, especially when near to the fountains of vodka +there were spread out long tables and benches, covering some acres of +ground, which it was said were to be loaded with provisions, of which +all-comers of humble rank might partake! + +The travellers had to drive in and out among the tables, and they +pictured to themselves the jovial, happy crowd who would soon be +assembled around them, enjoying themselves, and drinking long life and +prosperity to their Czar--a perfect picture of an Arcadian banquet. +Farther on were large booths, containing the kitchens where the +provisions for the vast multitudes were to be cooked; and there were +also other sheds, where the bread, and meat, and grain of all sorts were +to be stored. All this feasting and amusement was to last three days, +and no one seemed to be able to estimate how many thousands of persons +would attend the rural banquet. + +"Alas!" exclaimed Cousin Giles, "this may be a certain way of winning +the momentary applause of an ignorant mob, but it is a miserable way of +gaining the love of a people, of improving their character, of +instructing them in their duties, by thus pandering to their lowest +tastes. I suspect that it will not even secure the object desired. +What a contrast does it afford to the way our own enlightened sovereign +takes to win the affections of her people!" + +"We had the fireworks at the peace," observed Fred; "they were only to +please the mob." + +"Yes, to be sure," said Cousin Giles; "that was an old-fashioned way of +letting the people know that peace was concluded. They could in days of +yore, when newspapers were rare, have scarcely known it without; now +such a proceeding is quite unnecessary. A large sum was squandered +which would have been much better spent in enabling our artisans in the +dockyards, thrown out of employment by the peace, to emigrate; besides +which, it was said that numbers of people were kept working on several +Sundays to get them finished in time. If such was the case, a national +sin was added to a national folly." + +Cousin Giles' conjectures with regard to the uselessness of the feast +prepared for the mujicks were realised. No sooner each day were the +tables covered, than the mob rushed forward and bore off whatever they +could lay hands on, so that the later comers had nothing to eat; while +fountains of vodka refused to supply sufficient liquid to quench the +thirst of the vast multitudes which thronged round them. There was, +therefore, far more complaint and grumbling, than love or gratitude +exhibited towards the supposed provider of the entertainment--the Czar. + +About half a mile farther, in front of this scene of barbaric festivity, +across the plain, over fields which had been beaten down to supply an +open space of sufficient extent, was seen a sea of white tents, forming +an encampment which at that time contained fifty thousand men, to whom +many more were afterwards added. + +Before them was a line of artillery, the muzzles of the guns turned +towards the spot where the mujicks were expected to assemble-- +significant, as a cynical friend of Cousin Giles observed, of the way in +which people in the parts there are governed. He may, however, have +been wrong in his conjecture. + +The travellers drove towards the tents, in front of which they found the +bands of all the regiments practising together. They made a great deal +of noise, but the music was not so good as they expected. + +They got out of their carriage, and walked into the encampment without +let or hindrance. They felt a curious sensation as they found +themselves among the troops of those with whom their countrymen had so +lately been engaged in deadly strife. Not only were they secure from +receiving any insult, but they were treated everywhere with the greatest +courtesy. + +One thing is certain, that although a large amount of barbarism remains +in Russia, the army, in certain respects, has attained a high state of +civilisation. The younger officers are invariably well educated, and +generally polished in their manners. The material comforts of the men +are much attended to in many regiments, though not perhaps in all, and +they have been brought into a good state of discipline. + +The tents were arranged in long lines, with broad, well-gravelled roads +at intervals between them, with a drained footpath on either side. The +encampment, it must be confessed, looked very far neater and cleaner +than that at Aldershot. Why should we refuse to give our late enemies +their due, or to acknowledge our own shortcomings? It is far better +that the rising generation should know that Englishmen are not perfect, +and endeavour to correct the national faults, than to go on blindly +fancying that we are superior in all things to all other nations on +earth. + +Our friends, with their guide, first walked into a sergeant's tent. He +and his comrade were very civil, and begged them to take a seat. His +regiment had not been in the Crimea, but they had heard what brave +people the English were. Even those who had been opposed to them felt +no enmity towards them; very much the contrary--they had learnt to +respect them. + +The Russian officers who had been in the Crimea, it was said, whenever +they met with any English officers who had been there also, were more +than usually kind and attentive to them. The men's abodes, into which +the travellers went, contained sixteen persons, and very close packing +they must have found it in hot weather. In cold weather they are thus +kept warmer, and, if called to stand to their arms on a sudden attack, a +large body of men can be instantly brought together. The soldiers were +generally fine-looking, intelligent fellows; many of them as fair, and +quite as clean-looking, as Englishmen. Some of the regiments, raised in +northern latitudes, were composed of fine, dark-bearded men, while the +officers were generally good-looking and gentlemanly. These, however, +were crack troops, and were certainly very different from the slouching, +loutish-looking recruits to be seen when no public exhibition is +intended. + +Highly pleased with this visit to the camp, they drove back to the city. +On their way they stopped at some public gardens, where their guide +told them a celebrated band of gipsies were going to sing. Harry +declared that the place was called Waxhauloff. Certainly the name did +not sound unlike that word. There was a garden, brilliantly lighted up +with coloured lamps, and at one end there were scenic preparations, +probably for a desperate sea-fight on a pond, for there was a lighthouse +in the foreground and some ships in the distance; and the bills +signified that this was to be followed by a superb display of fireworks. +There was also a large music hall, where a number of people were +collected, listening to a very good instrumental band. The object of +the travellers, however, was to meet with the civilised specimens of the +race of Zingari or gipsies, whom they would find there. They were not +long in discovering them as they moved about among the crowd. There was +the same swarthy hue, black, burning eyes, and cunning, quick expression +of countenance which distinguish them in every part of the world. The +women were somewhat fancifully, but not fantastically dressed. This +costume varied little from that common in Europe. It is only on festive +occasions that they wear the dress of their people. The men had on +surtouts, with belts round their waists, and light-coloured trousers. +They were remarkable for their small well-formed heads and sharp Jewish +countenances. Cousin Giles said he should call them Arab Jews. One of +the women, who was fairer than the rest, and somewhat picturesquely +dressed in a red mantle, seemed to attract some attention, though when +her features were seen near they bore the gipsy characteristics. + +After some time the interpreter succeeded in finding the chief of the +gipsies, and in drawing him aside to where Cousin Giles was standing. +The interpreter told the gipsy chief that Cousin Giles was an Englishman +who took great interest in the gipsies of all countries, and that he +would like to hear about his tribe. The gipsy replied that he was much +flattered; that he was the chief only of forty or fifty people, but that +they were all well off; that they lived in comfortable houses, and had +conformed to the religion of the country; that he had been offered a sum +equivalent to a thousand pounds to each of his band to go to Paris to +sing in public, but that they were well off in Russia, and did not wish +to move. Some of his people at times became very wealthy, and some of +the women, who had fine voices, went on the stage, while others married +men of rank. There were many tribes of gipsies in Russia who were +altogether of an inferior grade. They still lived in tents, and +wandered about the country, and were chiefly horse and cattle-dealers. +A few followed still less creditable occupations. His tribe, however, +held no communication whatever with them. + +It occurred to Cousin Giles that the life of the wandering gipsy was +perhaps more creditable than that of his brethren in the city. The +conversation was brought to a close by the gipsy and his band being +summoned to the platform. + +The band consisted of fifteen women and eight men. The women were +seated in a semicircle; the leader and another man, with guitars in +their hands, stood in front of them; the rest stood behind. Some of the +women had guitars. One of the girls sang a solo very well, the rest of +the band joining in an extravagantly wild, fantastic chorus; the leader, +meantime, skipping and turning and twisting about in the most absurd and +inelegant manner. They sang several songs in the same style, some more +wild and extraordinary than the first, certainly not suited to a refined +taste. Yet this place was evidently a fashionable resort; the +entrance-money was very high,--a silver rouble and a quarter,--and the +company were all well-dressed, well-behaved people, evidently ladies and +gentlemen, chiefly the residents of the neighbourhood, a fashionable +suburb of Moscow. + +The houses in the neighbourhood were evidently built only for summer +use, for they were all, though differing in shape, of a Swiss-cottage +style. The travellers had been so busily engaged all day, that, having +satisfied their curiosity by seeing the gipsies, they had no inclination +to remain for the pyrotechnic display, and therefore, going in search of +their carriage, they drove back to Moscow. + +They had now seen a good deal of the outside of the city--not all, +perhaps, that was to be seen, but enough to give them a very fair +general idea of it. There were many convents, and churches, and +colleges, and hospitals, and other public institutions, which they had +not had time to visit; and then there was the great event which was to +take place in a few weeks, the coronation of the Emperor, at which it +was expected that the representatives of all the nations of Europe would +attend; but our friends preferred seeing somewhat of the interior of the +country to waiting for it, and they therefore resolved on setting off at +once, and returning, if possible, in time for the occasion. + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +Since the period spoken of the serfs have been emancipated, and these +laws are no longer in force. The peasantry are, however, subject to the +fearful conscription, and are liable to be torn from their homes to +serve in the armies of the Emperor. + + + +CHAPTER TEN. + + Journey in a Tarantasse--Monotony of Scenery--Description of + Population in Russia--The Mujicks or Peasants--Their Habitations and + Mode of Life--The Religion of Russia--The Priests--The Landed + Proprietors and their Habits and Characteristics--Civil Officers of + Government--The Army and its Organisation--Russian Officers--A + Breakdown--A Russian Inn--The City of Vladimir--Nishni-Novogorood--Its + Great Fair--Addressed by a Stranger--His Mysterious Conduct. + +Away rattled the tarantasse, with our travellers inside, through the +gates of the Holy City of Moscow towards the town of Nishni-Novogorood, +where the great annual fair of Russia was then taking place. The rough +vehicle bumped and thumped and jumbled along at a rapid rate over the +uneven road, in a way to try the nerves and bones and tempers of those +inside; but none of the tumblifications they endured had the effect of +disturbing the equanimity of their tempers, or of dislocating their +joints, each bump of unusual violence only making them laugh more +heartily than ever. Once clear of Moscow, the road was tolerably smooth +in most places, and the body of the carriage moved easily along between +the two long poles to which it was slung. Such is the principle of the +tarantasse. The body of the carriage may be of any form or size. It +may have come out of Long Acre, or it may be a little waggon covered in +with a tarpaulin. The important part is formed of the strongest and +roughest materials, so that it is not likely to break, or, if it does, +any peasant on the road can mend it. Cousin Giles had hired one of the +common sort. It was, in truth, a little waggon with a tilt over it, and +made very comfortable with a good supply of straw and leather cushions, +for which the Russians are famous. All travellers carry them. They +serve for their seats by day and their couches by night. Our friends +had brought a supply of provisions with them, so that they were entirely +independent of inns, which are very bad throughout the country. + +The party in the tarantasse consisted of Cousin Giles and his two young +friends, of Mr Allwick, their interpreter, and of Mr Evergreen, who +had begged leave to join them. Cousin Giles would rather have had a +more sensible companion; but he was so good-natured and so ready to +sacrifice his own convenience to that of others, while his quaint and +simple observations afforded so much amusement, that he was more +desirable than many persons with superior pretensions. + +The road was very unpicturesque, running chiefly between forests of +birch and fir-trees, with few or no hills to vary its monotony. The +journey, however, was far from uninteresting. They passed various +parties of traders with their waggons going to the fair; also a group of +exiles on their way to Siberia, already weary and footsore, though they +had performed but a short portion of their long journey. There were +woodcutters in the forests, and peasants in the few patches of +cultivated ground which here and there appeared. Mr Allwick, too, had +travelled over the greater part of Russia, and gave them much +information about the country. + +"I divide the population of Russia into five classes," said he, "with +the Czar, forming a sixth, at their head. First come the _mujicks_ or +peasants, who form the great mass of the population; then come the +_svestchenniks_ or priests, who are mostly sprung from them, and are +often looked upon as but slightly their superiors; the third class are +the _pameshtchiks_, the landed proprietors and serf owners. In the +fourth class may be included the _chinovinks_ or civil functionaries; +and the _grajdanuns_ or citizens; while in the fifth may be reckoned the +military of all ranks. + +"Of the mujicks or peasants, upwards of two-thirds are serfs or slaves. +The other portion have either purchased their liberty or have been +liberated by their masters. They are completely under the control of +their masters, who can flog them or imprison them, but may not take away +their lives nor remove them from the land on which they were born. An +owner may, however, let his serf out to some other master for hire. The +greater number of servants in Saint Petersburg and Moscow are serfs +belonging to landed proprietors, who receive a part of their wages. +Many serfs follow trades, and some have become wealthy merchants. Some +have purchased their freedom for large sums, but in other instances +masters have refused to grant their serfs their freedom, who thus, +though rolling in riches, remain with the chains of slavery round their +necks, liable at any moment to be called back and compelled to do their +lord's bidding, even in the most menial capacity. They have the general +faults of slaves, being cringing, cunning, and delighting in falsehood; +but they are intelligent, kind-hearted, and merry, and honest when +property is entrusted to their charge. Their dress consists of a cap, a +long sheepskin coat in winter, and a cotton one in summer, a red-striped +shirt, worn outside their very full breeches, and high leather boots on +grand occasions; but usually they wear on their feet willow or +birch-bark sandals, their legs being swathed in rags of all sorts. A +vest and sash of some gay colour is also worn; so that altogether their +costume is picturesque, though much less so than that of Swiss or +Spanish peasants. Their cottages are built of logs of pine, laid one +above the other, the ends being notched to fit into each other, exactly +like the log-huts of Canada, and having always a porch in front. They +are roofed with straw. They contain two apartments, with a huge stove +of brick built into the dividing wall. In each room there is a very +small window. In a conspicuous place is seen the picture of the saint +worshipped by the family, hung against the wall, sometimes glazed, and +always having a lamp burning before it. The first act of each person +who enters the cottage is to salute the image; indeed, the same +veneration is paid to it as was paid to the household gods of the +ancients. The temperature of these abodes ranges, both in summer and +winter, from 70 degrees to 80 degrees. They are lighted at night by a +pine stick stuck into the wall. As the interstices between the logs are +filled up with hemp and other combustible materials, fires are very +common, and whole villages are frequently burnt down. In order to +extinguish these conflagrations, each serf is bound to bring some +particular implement--a ladder, a pail, or an axe; and, that he may not +forget his duty, the implement he is charged to bring is painted on the +board with his name, which is placed in front of his hut. Thus, as soon +as the signal is given that a fire has broken out, so many serfs rush +forth with ladders, so many with pails, and so many with axes, towards +the scene of conflagration. + +"The serfs on an estate are allowed a certain portion of ground and +materials for building their cottages. They labour three days in the +week for their owners, and three days for themselves; so that, when the +soil is good, they can easily provide themselves with the necessaries of +life. But, at the same time, they are entirely in the power of unjust +stewards or cruel masters, who can make their lives miserable, and +quickly bring them to ruin. It must be owned that when serfs are well +managed they are often contented and happy, and have no wish for +freedom. + +"Some proprietors are anxious to free their serfs, so as to be able to +move them from one estate to another, or to get rid altogether of the +charge of keeping them. The well-known Count Sheremetieff, however, who +owns some of the richest merchants and shopkeepers in Saint Petersburg, +will not consent to emancipate any one of them, although some have +offered him large sums for their freedom. He is content with a small +annual payment as tribute. When he dies, however, if his successor is +avaricious, their condition may be very much changed. + +"The Greek is the Established Church of Russia. The priests are as a +class illiterate, and but little removed above the mujicks in their +habits of life. A priest is expected to marry, but can only marry one +wife. When she dies, he enters the monastic order. His sons enter the +clerical seminaries, and his daughters marry priests, while another +takes his vicarage. When a priest dies, or becomes a widower, and +leaves a grown-up daughter, the living is generally given to some +candidate for holy orders who pleases the young lady, and who is willing +to marry her. Thus the clergy have become almost a separate class, the +office descending from father to son. The value of livings is very +small, seldom surpassing 15 pounds per annum. The priests are in +general held in very little respect by all classes, even by the +peasants, who, however, kiss their hands when they meet them, and often +have a feeling of regard for them. There are numerous dissenters, who +are frequently treated with the most bitter persecution by the orthodox +Church. + +"The _Pameshtchiks_ or landed proprietors may be divided into two +classes,--those who have vast estates, and, honoured by titles, live +chiefly at courts, while they commit their affairs to the charge of +stewards; and those who reside on their property and look after it +themselves. The former are generally polished in their manners, +well-informed, and luxurious in their habits, and are courtiers, +diplomatists, or naval or military commanders. Though they occasionally +visit their estates, when they keep up considerable pomp and ceremony, +they reside chiefly in the capital. + +"The landlord who lives entirely on his property is of a very different +character, and thoroughly unlike an old English gentleman of the same +social rank. Supremely indolent and unintellectual, he thinks of +nothing but how he can most easily kill time. When he awakes in the +morning, his attendant slave brings him his pipe, and he smokes till his +first meal of tea and rusks is prepared; his bailiff then comes and +makes his daily report, and serves as a vent for his ill-humour. Then +he eats a substantial and somewhat greasy meal, which enables him to +exist while he takes a drive round his estate till dinner-time. That +meal is even more coarse and greasy than the former one. He then sleeps +for a couple of hours, smokes, plays at cards, sups, and goes to bed,-- +not a satisfactory way for a person with a soul to spend his time. His +wife spends her day much in the same way, smoking paper cigarettes +instead of a pipe, and managing the female domestic serfs instead of the +men. All matrimonial affairs come under the cognisance of the +_Pameshtchik_, as no serf can marry without his permission. This, +however, is rarely withheld, as it is his interest to have as large a +number of people as possible beneath his rule. + +"Owners often treat their serfs kindly, and make their lives happy, but +a capricious or tyrannical master has the power of rendering every +person on his estate miserable. + +"The above description refers to the Russian landowners as a class. +There are undoubtedly exceptions, and many very excellent, intelligent +men may be found, who, living entirely on their property, devote +themselves to its improvement, and to the amelioration of the condition +of those who have been placed in dependence on them. + +"The worst class in Russia are the Tchinovniks, or those employed in the +civil service of the Government, of all grades, from the highest to the +lowest. They are badly paid, and thus indemnify themselves by every +description of peculation, and by endeavouring to wring bribes out of +all with whom they come in contact. The Emperors have at times +endeavoured to alter the system, but, although they have punished +delinquents, when discovered, with the greatest severity, they have +failed to put a stop to the evil. + +"The mercantile class are considered generally respectable. No person +can trade unless he is a member of one of three guilds. The privileges +belonging to the first guild are purchased by an annual tax, calculated +on the declared capital, but which cannot be less than 150; and those of +the other guilds by sums in proportion to the smaller facilities for +trading which they afford. + +"The Russians are certainly not a warlike race, though their governors +have endeavoured to make them so. The conscription presses most cruelly +on the peasants, and it is with the most painful reluctance that its +summons is obeyed. When they join, the officers may ill-treat them, +pull their hair, and strike them with impunity. The officers have +generally a fair supply of professional knowledge, and some are highly +educated. The men have a larger amount of passive courage than of +dashing bravery; yet they will usually follow where their officers lead +them. The private has a possibility of rising to the rank of an officer +after twelve years' probation, and even sooner by some dashing act of +bravery; and several even thus have become generals. There are numerous +military colleges in which cadets are educated, but a commission may +also be obtained by a youth of family by his serving two years in the +ranks. No officer may appear on any occasion without his uniform, nor +carry an umbrella. The cadets are exercised during the summer in camps, +as, indeed, is the greater part of the army, to prepare them for actual +warfare." + +Mr Allwick had got thus far in his description of the people of Russia, +when, as the horses were galloping along at a great rate, a crash was +heard, and over went the carriage on its side;--one of the long poles of +the tarantasse had broken. The travellers got out in dismay, not +knowing how long this accident might delay them. As they looked out +they saw some cottages ahead. A peasant standing at the door of one of +them had observed the occurrence, and now came running up with his axe +in his hand to ascertain the amount of the damage. Two or three other +men followed. "Oh, it is nothing," said they; "we will soon put this +all right." They were as good as their word. While the travellers +stood at the roadside watching what they would do, they disappeared into +the forest, out of which they speedily issued with a young fir-tree, +which in an incredibly short space of time they stripped of its bark and +fitted to the carriage. A rouble amply satisfied them for their +trouble. They were merry fellows, evidently, for they laughed and joked +or sung all the time they were at work, so that Fred and Harry were +quite sorry that they could not understand what they were saying. The +tarantasse was soon moving on as before. In the evening they stopped at +a place with a name too difficult to pronounce, to take tea. The inn +was an unclean, straggling-looking mansion, with a long whitewashed +corridor, and whitewashed rooms, very scantily furnished, opening out of +it. The whole place was redolent of an odour which appears to be a +mixture of vodka, onions, or rather garlic, and stale tobacco smoke. No +house in Russia seems to be without it, of high or low degree, its +intensity only being greater in those of the lower orders. Evergreen +complained bitterly of it. His consumption of _eau-de-Cologne_ was +doubled, he said, and he declared that it alone would prevent him from +ever willingly taking up his abode in Russia, irrespective of his +dislike to the despotic system of government under which it was placed. +The travellers were ushered by a waiter into a room with a +straight-backed, leather-covered sofa, chairs with wooden seats, and an +old card-table; while the walls were ornamented with some coloured +prints of battles between the Circassians and Russians, in which a host +of the mountaineers were flying before a handful of their enemies. The +waiter would have astonished one of his brethren in England; for he wore +jack-boots, into which were tucked his full Oriental breeches, a pink +shirt, showing the tail outside, and a dirty, collarless, long coat, +like a dressing-gown, fastened round his waist by a sash. "_Tchai_, +_tchai_!" (tea, tea!), exclaimed Cousin Giles with as much dignity as +if he was thorough master of the Russian language. "_Si chasse, si +chasse_," replied the jack-booted waiter, meaning thereby that he would +bring it as suited his convenience. Mr Allwick, however, added a few +persuasive words, and in a short time the hissing _samovar_ made its +appearance, with a teapot and cups. The tea, which would anywhere be +considered excellent, the travellers had brought with them. The +principle of the _samovar_ is very simple. In the centre of a +common-shaped urn there is a cylinder with a grating at the bottom of +it. The urn is filled with water, and the cylinder with charcoal. A +brass chimney fits on to the top of the cylinder. A light is then +applied to the lower end, which soon ignites the charcoal from the +bottom to the top, and boils the water in three or four minutes. A +frame fixes on to the top of the cylinder, on which the teapot is placed +to keep it warm. There is a damper or cap, which can be placed on the +top of the cylinder when it is required to put out the fire. There is +no more convenient machine for travellers, as breakfast can thus be +prepared in a very few minutes. A sum amounting to little more than a +shilling was paid for the accommodation thus afforded. For a less sum +they might have slept all night, but then they would have had to wrap +themselves up in their cloaks and pick out a soft plank on the floor. +In an hour fresh horses were procured, and once more the tarantasse was +rattling along the road. About twenty-four hours after leaving Moscow, +the travellers reached the ancient city of Vladimir, with the Golden +Gate. It was once upon a time the capital of the Empire, and is still a +city of considerable size. It is picturesquely situated on a hill, on +which stand about twenty churches, overlooking a wide extent of wooded +country, with a magnificent river flowing through it. The Golden Gate, +which still rises in dignified solitude, a proud monument of the past, +is not an ungraceful building. It is no longer used as a gate. + +The temptations held out by the hotel here did not induce our travellers +to stop, but, ordering fresh horses, they pushed on towards Nishni. +They were now entering a fertile tract of country; but, fertile as it +is, the population is not more dense than that of the most barren +districts of Scotland. Mile after mile of thick forest was passed +through, varied occasionally, as they approached the river Okka, by +large villages. These villages have a strong similarity to each other, +the houses being built of logs, and the gable-ends being turned to the +road, and being inhabited by people with a very great likeness to each +other. At length the town of Nishni-Novogorood appeared before them. +At most times of the year it contains but few inhabitants. It was now +crowded by persons from all parts of Russia and the provinces to the +south and east, who had assembled to dispose of the produce of their +respective districts, or to make purchases for exportation. Here +assemble merchants from all parts of Siberia, Tartars, Georgians, +Persians, and Armenians, to meet Russians and Germans, and even English +and French, from Saint Petersburg and Moscow, who come to buy their +produce or exchange them for manufactures from the West. Nishni stands +on a high promontory, whose base is washed on one side by the Volga, on +the other by its tributary the Okka. The Kremlin, or Citadel, with its +low, embattled walls, stands on the highest point, and overlooks a vast +plain, through which, at the base of the hill, the Volga flows proudly +past. On this plain, close to the banks of the river, was a whole city +of booths of various styles of architecture--those for the tea merchants +being in the shape of pagodas. Some of the booths are of considerable +size, being, in fact, storehouses for a large amount of valuable +merchandise. One of the most conspicuous buildings in this quarter is a +mosque, whose tall, pointed spire, surmounted by a glittering crescent, +towers above all others. This mosque is said to be the most northern +Mohammedan temple, with the exception of the humble little structure at +Moscow. + +Our friends found the hotel in the upper part of the town far more +comfortable than they expected. The rooms and beds were tolerably +clean, and the eatables contained no larger amount of grease and garlic +than might reasonably be expected. Having refreshed themselves with a +quantity of fresh-water, which somewhat astonished the Russian +attendants, and partaken of a substantial meal, they sallied forth to +visit the fair. Mr Allwick, who had been there before, acted as their +guide. The upper part of the town presented no unusual bustle, but as +they descended to the plain they found themselves among dense crowds of +human beings in every variety of costume. Long-coated, long-bearded, +and high-booted Russians predominated. By listening attentively, our +friends thought they could distinguish very many different languages and +dialects; and all were speaking in an earnest, energetic way, showing +that they had met for business, and not for pleasure. There was, in +truth, no gaiety either in their manner or their costume; for their +dresses also were of somewhat grave, sombre colours, though here and +there gay sashes, or caps, or vests, or turbans were to be seen. They +walked up and down the long lanes of booths, in which the traders sat in +state ready to dispose of their merchandise. But the more interesting +part of their employment was the visit they paid to the various +storehouses. In some were packages upon packages of tea, done up in +skins, in which mode it is brought all the way from China by caravans; +in another were piles of hides, in another heaps of dressed leather, in +another bales of hemp and wool, brought by the Volga and its tributaries +from far-off regions. There were also less bulky manufactured +articles--leather work and embroidery, slippers and belts, from Kazan, +shawls and cloths from Persia, and saddles from Tartary; indeed, it +would be difficult to name one-half of the articles exposed for sale. +There were no means of amusement, such as are to be seen at an English +or German fair. No jugglers, or actors, or roundabouts, or swings, +though there were eating and drinking booths in abundance, where the +buyers and sellers and carriers might refresh themselves after the toils +of the day. The mighty Volga, even here a fine river, presented an +interesting scene. It was covered with a great variety of boats, some +of considerable size, which had brought to market the produce enumerated +above, and were ready to carry off what was taken in exchange for it. +There were steamers also, some going much above Nishni, and others +navigating from thence its whole length to its mouth. + +While the travellers had been moving about the fair, Cousin Giles, who +had a great facility for remembering countenances, had observed a man in +the costume of a mujick continually following them. His dress was dusty +and travel-stained, but it was neither torn nor patched, nor had he the +appearance of a poor man. His countenance was frank, open, and +pleasant, though grave and somewhat careworn, so that it did not appear +to Cousin Giles that he had any sinister motive for his conduct. Our +friends were so much interested with all they saw, that quick-gathering +darkness alone reminded them that it was time to return to their hotel. +They had even then seen but a very small portion of the fair. Cousin +Giles had before this lost sight of the mujick. They were on their way +to the upper town, and were passing through a street, if so it might be +called, with high walls on either side, when, coming from under a dark +archway, the mujick presented himself before them. + +He walked up at once to Cousin Giles, and took his hand, which he +pressed to his lips, and then spoke several sentences in a low, earnest +tone; but as the language was Russian, Cousin Giles could not understand +a word. Mr Allwick, however, came up to interpret. + +"He tells you," said he, "that he knows some of our countrymen; that he +has always found them honourable, kind, and religious, and able to +sympathise with the afflicted; and that, after watching you, he feels +that he may put perfect confidence in you and your companions." + +"What does he want us to do?" asked Cousin Giles. "I shall be very +happy to assist the poor man if a few roubles will be of consequence to +him; but I do not see how otherwise I can help him." + +"He says that, if you will let him call on you at the hotel in a short +time, he will tell you what he has got to say, but that now he dare not +remain longer talking to you, lest he should be observed. He says that +he will not appear as he now does, and he hopes you will allow whoever +asks for you to be admitted," replied Mr Allwick. + +"Very mysterious," said Cousin Giles. "It may perhaps be a device of +the police to entrap us." + +"I do not think that, sir," replied Mr Allwick. "The man is, I +believe, honest; at the same time I cannot advise you to have anything +to do with him. In this country one cannot be too wary. With the best +of intentions, we may easily be brought into trouble." + +"Very shocking, indeed, to be taken up and sent off to Siberia," +observed Mr Evergreen. "Tell the good man that I will give him ten +roubles if that will help him, but that I do not want to see his face +again--in case of accident, you know. Tell him that." + +"It is not pecuniary assistance that he requires," said Mr Allwick, who +had again been speaking with the stranger. "He says that he will +explain everything by and by if he is allowed to visit us. He throws +himself on our charity. He thinks the risk to us will be slight, and +the gain to him great. He entreats that you will give him a reply, for +he dare not remain longer." + +Mr Evergreen's curiosity was aroused, and he forgot his fears. After +consulting a minute, Cousin Giles replied: "Tell him that I will see him +if he thinks fit to call, but I cannot promise to help him." + +Mr Allwick translated what had been said into Russian, and the +stranger, bowing low, retired into the retreat from which he had come +forth, while the travellers returned to their inn. + + + +CHAPTER ELEVEN. + + The Stranger Merchant commences his Story--The Molokani--Origin of + their Faith--Progress among the Villagers--How the Bible was prized by + them--Its Distribution--Captain Martineff--His Endurance of + Persecution--Sad History--His Christian Fortitude--General Persecution + of the Sect--Flight--Transported to a New District--Attempt to convert + Captain Martineff. + +The hissing _samovar_ was on the table, and the fragrant _tchai_ had +just been made, when the waiter with the high boots and pink shirt +entered to say that a merchant had called with some goods for the +travellers to inspect. Cousin Giles desired that the man might be +admitted, and in a minute a person in a long dark coat, with a case +slung before him, entered the room. He at once began to display some +caps and belts of gold and silk embroidery, several articles of silver, +spoons ornamented with black-lined engraving, little hand-bells, snuff-- +boxes, slippers of leather richly worked, and many similar articles, +such as English travellers in Russia are accustomed to purchase. The +prices he named were very moderate. While he was displaying his +merchandise, Cousin Giles was observing him narrowly. + +"Why, he is our friend the mujick," he whispered to Mr Allwick. "The +man can masquerade well." + +The waiter had now left the room. The merchant went to the door and +looked out. He then came back to the table on which he had spread out +his merchandise, and addressed Mr Allwick in a low, earnest voice. The +latter now grew very much interested, apparently, with what he heard. +The stranger perceived that his cause was making progress, and continued +his story with increased earnestness. At length he stopped to allow Mr +Allwick to translate to his friends what had been said. Cousin Giles +looked inquiringly at him for an explanation. + +"I will translate, as nearly as I can, what he has told me," said Mr +Allwick. + +"I am, you must know, sirs," said he, "one of that class of dissenters +from the Established Greek Church whom our countrymen designate as +_molokani_ or milk-drinkers. You have not heard of them, perhaps. I +will tell you about them. Many years ago the unadulterated word of +God--the Holy Bible, translated into our native language--was brought +into Russia without note or comment. Some copies of it reached my +native province, and were received most gladly by many of our peasants. +Those who could afford it eagerly bought the book of glad tidings; those +who could not clubbed their money together and became the joyful +purchasers of a copy. How the book came, no one could tell. Some said +that a stranger from another land brought many volumes of the book with +him in a large chest, and that he travelled about from village to +village, instructing certain men in each village, and making them desire +to possess the book. Though such might have been the case, I never saw +the stranger. All I know is, that a certain very pious man in our +village had several copies of the book which he had bought at a great +cost, though not too great for its value, oh no! And that he sold them +without profit to all who would buy--rather, I would say, at a loss, for +to some who could not pay the full cost he remitted part of the amount. +When we got the book we lost no time in reading it. In the fields in +summer, under the shade of trees, we sat and read it, where no one could +watch us; in our huts, by torch-light in winter, we eagerly studied the +book. We knew that we had got the word of God, that we possessed a +jewel of rich price; we were afraid that thieves might come and steal it +from us. We read and read on; most eagerly we met together to talk +about it, to discuss the meaning of parts which we could not at first +understand, to pray that our minds might be enlightened to comprehend +it. We read it, as the book itself tells us to do, with earnest prayer; +we read it with faith, and we read it not in vain. Soon passages which +seemed at first obscure were made clear to our comprehension. Every day +we understood it better and better. We had no one to whom to go for +information. We had no one to instruct us, so we went to God; we asked +Him to show us the truth, as He in the book told us to do, and His +promises never fail. He instructed our minds; He gave us all we asked +for. We now discovered, truly, how darkened had been our minds, how +ignorant we had been, what follies, what fables, what falsehoods we had +believed. We saw the gross, the terrible, the wicked errors of the +Church of our country. We found that those who should have instructed +us were generally as ignorant as we had been, and that if not ignorant, +they had taught us falsehoods, knowing them to be falsehoods. We found +in that book how the world was made; how man was first placed in the +world; how he, by disobedience to God's simple command, fell from his +happy state, and how sin thus entered into the world, and all men became +by nature sinful; how God in His mercy promised a Redeemer who should +bear upon His own shoulders the sin of all the children of Adam who +believe in Him; how God selected a people to keep His great name, and to +make it known among men; how He promised to the patriarchs of old, from +age to age, that the Redeemer of the world should be one of their chosen +tribe, and that the glad tidings of salvation should first be offered to +them; how, in process of time, the Son of God, the Saviour of the world, +from His unbounded love to the human race, appeared in the form of a +man, and in humble rank, to teach us that He regards not the persons of +men; how He was despised and rejected of men; how He suffered toil, and +sorrow, and persecution, though He spent His days on earth in doing good +to all around Him, to show the humble, and poor, and afflicted that He +can feel for them; how He was rejected by God's chosen people; how they +crucified Him, and invoked a curse on their own heads by taking on +themselves all the terrible guilt of the deed; how He died and was +buried; how thus He offered Himself a sacrifice for our sins; how He +remained for three days in the vale of departed spirits; how in His own +body He rose again to teach men the doctrine of the resurrection; how, +having fulfilled all the work of the sacrifice, He ascended into heaven, +and how He there acts as a mediator between God and man; how, too, in +His abundant mercy, He sent down the Holy Ghost to lead men aright, to +teach them the truth. That book tells us nothing of the Virgin Mary, +except that she was the earthly mother of our Lord. It tells us nothing +of the mediation of saints, but it tells us that God accepts but one +great sacrifice, that offered by our Lord Jesus Christ; that He is our +only Priest, our only Mediator in heaven; that those who heartily repent +of their sins, who put their faith in Him, and Him alone, will be saved. + +"We find nothing said in the Bible of a Patriarch, or any other head of +the Church on earth. The only Patriarch, therefore, we can acknowledge, +the only Head of our Church, is Christ in heaven. Yet the Bible has +taught us to bow to the authority of earthly powers in all temporal +matters, but in spiritual matters to yield to the authority of no one +unless it is plainly and undoubtedly in accordance with the word of God +revealed in that book. Putting aside all the customs of the country, +which seemed to us so overloaded with error and abuse that we could not +distinguish the right from the wrong, we have endeavoured to form a +system of worship and mutual instruction as nearly similar as possible +to that instituted by our Lord Himself and His disciples. We knew that +we could not preach our doctrines in public without bringing down on our +heads a severe punishment from the authorities of the Empire; but they, +nevertheless, made certain though slow progress. No sooner did one +receive the truth than he became anxious to impart it to others. All +this time, who, think you, had joined our faith?--none but serfs, +peasants, humble mujicks. But this did not cast us down, for we asked +ourselves. Who were the first disciples of our Lord?--fishermen, humble +men like ourselves. Because our faith was different to that of the +great and mighty in the land, it did not make us less certain that it +was the true one, or less anxious to impart it to others, to offer our +brethren the same assurance of pardon and salvation which we had +ourselves received. Hitherto the progress of our creed had received no +interruption from the Government authorities. We had worked silently +and quietly; even the priests knew nothing of the movement going on. We +were well assured that, should they discover it, they would oppose us +with all their power. We were, therefore, allowed to continue on +without persecution. By degrees, however, our doctrines began to make +progress among persons of a higher grade. An earnest, piously-minded +land-steward had a Bible lent him by a peasant; he expressed his +satisfaction at reading it, and was at last invited to attend one of our +meetings. He came, and his heart was turned to the right way. For many +months he worshipped with us, and at length the owner of the estate he +managed came to live on his property. He was an officer in the army, +who had seen much service in the Caucasus fighting against the +Circassians. He had the character of being a brave and a stern man in +the army. His serfs always found him a kind though a strict master--not +indulgent, but just. To his master the steward was induced, after some +time, to open the secret of his heart, and he at length persuaded him to +study the Bible. The master read and read on. He became convinced of +the errors of the Greek Church, and joined our fraternity. Truly as a +brother, humble and lowly in his own sight, he moved among us. + +"The truth had now spread widely; many thousands believed and worshipped +with us, and we began to hope that the pure doctrines of Christianity +might extend over the face of our beloved country. Alas! We deceived +ourselves. We forgot that times of persecution, trial, and suffering +must ever be looked for by God's saints on earth. + +"At length, as was to be expected, some of the Government officials got +notice of our meetings. One night a congregation of us were assembled +for prayer and instruction in the word in a rude hut constructed by us +far away in the depths of a forest,--the only temple we dared raise to +our God,--when we were startled by hearing the trampling of steeds and +the crashing of boughs. Before we could rise from our knees, a party of +police, headed by a priest and two of the neighbouring landowners, +rushed in upon us. Some attempted to fly, others stood boldly up to +confront our persecutors; but neither would it have been right or wise, +or of any avail, to have used carnal weapons for our defence. Those who +thus stood firm felt bolder than they had ever done before. We demanded +why we were thus assailed and interrupted in our private devotions. We +asserted our right to meet for prayer to God and to our Lord, and +demanded that we might be left to finish our devotions undisturbed. In +return we were jeered and ridiculed, and roughly ordered to marshal +ourselves and hurry on before our captors. They told us that we should +be tried before a proper tribunal; that there could be no doubt we had +met together for political and treasonable purposes; that also we were +schismatics and heretics, and that we had merited the severest +punishment. We had no help for it, so, praying to God for help and +support in this our first hour of peril, we did as we were ordered. How +we had been discovered we could not learn. We feared that some one +among our own body had proved false, but we trusted that such was not +the case. Our meetings had probably attracted the attention of some +priest more acute than his brethren, and he had subtly made inquiries +till he had discovered the truth. It was a sad procession as we marched +forth from our woodland temple, but yet we were not cast down; we +trusted in God that He would deliver us. He did not even then forget +us. We had marched a verst or more when thick clouds began to gather in +the sky, and loud rumblings were heard. Soon the tempest burst over the +forest, louder and louder grew the thunder, flash upon flash of +lightning darted from the heavens; first heavy drops, and then torrents +of rain came down upon our heads; the trees bent, trunks were riven by +the lightning, boughs were torn from the stems and dashed across our +path. The steeds of our captors began to snort and rear and show every +sign of terror. Crash succeeded crash--more vivid grew the lightning; +it played round the tall stems of the trees, it ran hissing like +serpents of fire along the ground, it almost blinded us by its +brightness. At last the horses could no longer stand it; their riders, +too, were alarmed. Some of the horses wheeled one way, some another, +and all set off galloping furiously through the wood in different +directions. In vain the priest and the lords called to us to keep +together, and to meet them at the town; in vain their servants and their +other attendants endeavoured to keep us together. Feeling that the +tempest was sent for our deliverance, with a prayer for each other's +safety we likewise dispersed in all directions, to seek places of +shelter and concealment from our enemies. The large forests, the thin +population, the rocks and caves of that region afforded us abundance of +facilities for this object. Many of us reached such places of safety as +I have described and the freemen were able to remain concealed, but the +serfs were hunted up like wild beasts and brought back to their owners. +Many were put to the torture, to make them betray those who had assumed +what was called the new faith. Day after day some of our members were +seized. The freemen were cast into prison and put to the torture, to +compel them to deny their faith or to accuse others of following it. +Our beloved brother, Captain Martineff, had hitherto escaped, but now he +was accused of professing the new doctrines. He was seized and brought +up before the officers of a commission appointed to try all such +delinquents. He, who had ever proved a faithful soldier to his generals +and the Emperor, was not now to be found false to his faith and his +heavenly Lord and Master. He at once boldly confessed that he had taken +the Bible as his rule and guide, that by that he would stand or fall; +and he demanded that he might have the right of explaining and defending +his doctrines in public court. This liberty was scornfully denied him. +He was condemned for being guilty of desiring to subvert the Government +and religion of the country, and thrown into prison. He would at once +have been transported to Siberia, but the Government hoped by keeping +him to discover others who held the same tenets. They little knew how +far the true faith had spread, that thousands already held it, and that +no power of theirs could extinguish the light thus kindled. They +dreamed not also of the fortitude and courage of which a true Christian +is capable. Captain Martineff would neither betray others nor deny his +own faith. It was determined to break his proud spirit, as it was +called, and now commenced a system of the most cruel persecution against +him. His property was confiscated, his wife and children were seized +and cast into dungeons separate from each other. They were fed on black +bread and water. One by one they were brought to him and cruelly +flogged before his eyes. He saw them growing thinner and thinner every +day, the colour fading from their cheeks, the hue of sickness taking its +place. He knew they were sinking into the grave--murdered by his +persecutors. Still he would not deny his faith or perform ceremonies +which he knew to be superstitious and idolatrous. With a refinement of +cruelty worthy of demons, they told him that one child was dead. `It is +well,' he replied; `of such is the kingdom of heaven.' A second died, a +bright little cherub; it had been the joy of his life. `God be praised! +He is in Abraham's bosom,' he answered. Soon a third sank under his +treatment. `You have released him from prison to praise God with the +angels in heaven!' he remarked. + +"His wife, a believer with him, mild, pious, and good, became a victim +to their barbarity. They told him abruptly, to shock his feelings the +more. A serene smile illuminated his countenance, `She has entered into +her rest, where neither grief, nor pain, nor sickness can come. She is +with the spirits of the just made perfect.' + +"Still he had more children. It was known how he had loved them. One +after the other died, till one alone remained. They brought it to him. +They told him that if he would conform to the rules of the Established +Church he should be released from prison, his property should be +restored, and that this child--this darling child--should be sent to a +place where fresh, pure air and the care of a good physician would +quickly restore it to health. `Life and death are in the hands of the +Almighty; to Him I commit the life of my child. I have but in faith +humbly to obey His laws, and to follow the course He has marked out for +me.' + +"One, two, three, four years passed away, and he and his child remained +in prison. The little boy grew thin and pale, and pined and pined away. +They took him occasionally to be seen by his father--not to bring any +joy to that father's heart, but to tempt his constancy. The attempt +availed them not. The child died; the father shed not a tear, uttered +not a complaint, but remained firm as ever to the faith. Another year +he was kept in prison, and then stripped of his property. He was +dismissed from prison, and a certain locality fixed for his abode. Why +he was not sent to Siberia was not known. It was the will of the +Emperor, it was supposed, who had heard his story. + +"While I have been narrating Captain Martineff's history, I have +neglected to speak of the condition of the poorer brethren. Numbers +were seized, knouted, and sent off to labour in the mines of Siberia. +They little thought that by that means they were taking the surest way +of propagating the truth. Others were thrown into prison, and subjected +daily to cruel tortures to force them to recant. + +"A few unhappy men were overcome by the pains and terror, and returned +to the Greek faith, but the greater number held firm. I remained in +concealment, and it was supposed that I had died; but I had relatives +and friends who were wealthy for our rank of life, and gave me support. +All my family were free, yet in position we were not much above the poor +mujick. I used after a time to venture out of my hiding-place and meet +our brethren for prayer and praise; but it was at great hazard, and +oftentimes I had a narrow escape of being captured. At length, after we +had suffered years of persecution, a time of rest was awarded us, and we +fancied that we were to be allowed to worship our God as we judged best. +Still I dared not be seen in public, for I had refused to appear when +summoned, and I was looked upon as a political as well as a religious +offender. + +"The mercy we were promised was but little mercy to us. We were to be +removed from the land of our birth, from our once happy homes, and to be +settled down, many hundred versts away, in a district between some +German colonies and Tartary. It was believed that our tenets would not +spread among the people by whom we were surrounded. Many hundreds of +families were thus turned out of their homes and compelled to settle in +this new region. The choice was given them of renouncing their faith or +going. Few hesitated. I at length came forth from my hiding-place and +joined my companions. We set to work assiduously to bring under +cultivation the wild country in which we were placed, and God prospered +our labours. + +"Among the few of higher rank who belonged to us, Captain Martineff was +sent here. Sickness and long confinement had turned his hair +prematurely grey, and he looked an old man. He built himself a small +hut with a single chamber in it, and here he took up his abode, while he +used to labour with his own hands for his sustenance. His +fellow-villagers were all poor enough, but we all sought to assist him +and to take him food--without it, I believe at times that he would have +starved. He received our gifts thankfully, but never would take them +unless when he was absolutely in want of food. He had been much +respected when he was in the army, and the Emperor himself desired much +to bring him back to the world. More than one priest had come to effect +this object. At length the Emperor sent a general who was celebrated +for his great powers of argument. He arrived at our village in great +state, but set out alone on foot to pay his visit. The humble captain +had been apprised of his coming; he sat at his little round table, made +by his own hands, with his only spare seat placed ready for his guest. +His Bible lay open before him. The General struck his head against the +doorway as he entered. `We have need of humility when we approach the +word of God,' observed his host with a gentle smile. + +"The General spoke kindly and affectionately to the old man. They had +been comrades, brothers-in-arms together. For months they had slept in +the same tent, and eaten out of the same dish. For a short time they +conversed of old times. + +"`But you came to talk to me of matters of more importance, my General,' +said the Captain, laying his hand on the Bible. `Out of this book I +will reply to you. Of my own words I need speak none.' + +"The General then commenced a series of arguments, which he had thought +incontrovertible. As each was brought forward, the Captain turned to +his Bible, and produced a text, which with its context clearly refuted +it. Text after text was brought forward. At first the General had been +very confident of success; by degrees his confidence decreased, but the +Captain retained the same composure as at the first. + +"`You have a great knowledge of the book, my friend,' said the General. + +"`I should have,' answered the Captain humbly; `I study no other; for +where can another of equal value be found? This shows us the way of +eternal life.' + +"`Ah, you speak the truth, my old comrade,' exclaimed the General, +rising. `I came certain of succeeding to convert you to my way of +belief, but I own that you have conquered. You have converted me to +yours.' + +"These were the General's last words. He rose to take his departure. +He grasped his old comrade's hand, and went out. Alas! Alas! His +reason was convinced, but his heart was unchanged. His own words had +condemned him. He went back to the world to laste of its allurements +and false pleasure, its titles, its wealth, its evanescent honours. He +undoubtedly reported favourably of his friend, and obtained for him +immunity from further persecution; but for himself he sought not the +Lord where alone He can be found. He continued his old habits of life, +seeking the praise of men rather than the praise of God." + + + +CHAPTER TWELVE. + + Steffanoff Saveleff's Early History--Resolves to visit his Parents and + his Betrothed--Commences his Journey--Meets Woodcutters--Takes Shelter + in the Hut of old Sidor--Attacked by Fever--Compelled to fly--Pursued + by Enemies--Concealed in a Cave. + +"All this time I have been telling you about my people, but I have said +nothing about myself," continued the stranger. "When my people were +ordered to take up their abode in the new districts appointed for them, +I left my hiding-place, resolved to share their fortunes. I remained +unmolested at the new settlement for some months, labouring hard to +prepare a home for my aged parents, who I trusted might be allowed to +join me. With them dwelt a young orphan; she had grown up under their +roof from infancy to womanhood, and was betrothed to me. During the +days of persecution, I could not venture to wed her; but now that they +were over, and I had the prospect of being able to prepare a home fit +for her reception, I hoped to make her my wife. A peasant can love as +well as a noble.--I could not leave the settlement, that is, openly, +without permission from the mayor, the chief man of the village. In +vain I asked for it. I told him my object; still he would not listen to +me. I determined, therefore, to leave the place without his permission. +As soon as darkness set in, one night, amid a storm of wind and rain, I +started on my journey. The police, or anybody who would stop me, were +not likely to be out at such a time. I hurried on all night, and in the +daytime climbed up into a tree far away in the depths of a forest, where +it was not probable any one would discover me. I carried a wallet well +stored with food; I wished to make it last me as many days as possible, +as my great fear was of being captured should I enter any village to buy +bread. I had scraped together all the money I could collect, so that I +was well provided with the means of purchasing provisions when I could +venture to do so. Night after night I toiled on, sustained with the +hope that success would crown my efforts. I feared neither bears nor +wolves; they seldom in the summer season attack people, and I had often +contended with them. In winter the wolves are most to be dreaded; and +often travellers, even in sledges, have fallen victims to them. On foot +a person overtaken by a flock of them would not have a chance of +escaping with his life, unless he could climb a tree or a rock out of +their way. I dreaded famine more than anything else. Had I been able +to buy food wherever I could find it, I might have carried enough to +enable me to get on from one farm or one village to another without +difficulty, but, as this I was afraid to do, I was obliged to husband my +provisions. I found in the woods an abundance of wild fruit, such as +strawberries and raspberries, which grow plentifully in the woods; also +of many roots, with the nature of which I was well acquainted. Besides +roots, there were many varieties of mushrooms, and I had a small pan +with me in which I could cook them. + +"It was a wild sort of life I was leading. Sometimes for days together +I did not speak a word to a fellow-creature. Now and then I fell in +with woodcutters, but they were poor men who knew how to commiserate +those in distress, and seldom asked me questions. The greatest +assistance I received was from men of my own faith. Our tenets have +spread far and wide throughout the whole of the south of Russia, and I +had no difficulty in discovering those who held them. I at first had +little hopes of meeting with any friends, but He who governs by His will +the mighty universe, and without whose knowledge not a sparrow falls to +the ground, directed me to one. I one day had just climbed a tree after +my night-march, and was commending myself to my Maker before going to +sleep, when, as I looked once more around me, I saw coming through the +wood an old man and a young lad. By their dress, and the hatchets in +their belts, I knew that they were woodcutters. I thought, perhaps, +that they might cut down the very tree I had climbed into; however, they +went on a little way, and then, throwing aside their axes at the foot of +a tree, they knelt down together and offered up their morning prayers. +Then they sang a hymn, which our brethren often use when met together +for worship. The sounds cheered my heart; I knew at once that they were +friends. I quickly descended the tree, and went up to them. At first +they were afraid, thinking that I was a spy upon their actions, but a +few words reassured them. I told them at once my story, for I knew that +I was in safe hands. They promised to assist me as far as they had the +power. I by this time much wanted help. My provisions were well-nigh +exhausted, my feet sore, and my boots worn out. I required a day's +rest, and here was an opportunity of enjoying it. The lad, who was the +old man's grandson, undertook to get my boots mended by a brother, who +would ask no questions concerning me, and would gladly do it for +charity's sake. The old man promised to bring me next morning an ample +supply of provisions, and, in the mean time, insisted on my taking rest +while he and his boy watched near me. For this purpose they lopped off +a number of branches from the surrounding trees, and formed an arbour. +They then strewed the inside of it thickly with dry leaves, so as to +form a more comfortable couch than I had enjoyed for many a day. I +crept in, and was soon asleep. I had no fears, for I knew that the +woodcutters were Christian men, and that nothing would induce them to +betray me. + +"They aroused me at noon to partake of their meal, which consisted but +of black bread and fish taken from the neighbouring river. The fish, +however, reminded me that, if I could but provide myself with a rod and +tackle, I might frequently provide myself with food. I mentioned my +idea to my new friends, and they promised to procure me what I wanted. +I was always a good fisherman, and knew how to catch every sort of fish. +I was surprised that I had not thought of this before starting from +home. + +"After dinner I again went to sleep, and rested soundly till the +evening. I awoke up, and the old man came and sat down by me, giving me +some more food. While we sat and ate we conversed earnestly of +religious matters. The lad had gone away with my boots to the village, +which was three versts off. He did more even than he promised, for soon +after dark he returned with them thoroughly repaired. + +"`Our brother knew the importance of having them ready, in case you +might be compelled to move away suddenly, so he lost no time in mending +them,' said the young lad as he gave them to me. + +"Blessings on his head! He gave me also some provisions; but he did +more than this, he brought out with him a Bible. It was not his own--he +had borrowed it. By the light of a fir-torch, as we sat in the entrance +of my bower, he read many chapters from its sacred pages. It was late +before the old man and his grandson left me, promising to return early +the next morning. They told me that I might securely rest there till +then, sheltered by the bower. They brought some water and washed my +feet, and anointed them with some salve, which the lad, most thoughtful +for his years, had procured for the purpose. I had been too much +accustomed to sleep out at night during my long years of hiding from +persecution to have any fears after the assurance the woodcutters had +given me, so, commending myself to my Maker, I quickly fell asleep. + +"I was awoke by feeling a hand placed on my shoulder. I started up, +believing that a police-officer was about to seize me. I had lived for +some time in hourly expectation of being captured, and I could not throw +off the feeling. I felt, notwithstanding, that to allow it to weigh on +my mind was a sin, as it arose from want of faith and trust in God's +providence. I looked up, and beheld the honest countenance of the young +woodcutter. + +"`You sleep soundly, father,' said he with a smile. `Few but those who +have good consciences can thus repose, I have heard. Well, father, I +have brought you as much food as you can carry, and enough to last you +for many days. Eat, and then we will set off. I am to go with you some +of the way; my grandfather will meet us on the road. He wishes to say +farewell to you. It is all settled, so say not a word on the matter.' + +"I willingly agreed to the young lad's proposal. I was too thankful to +have a guide and companion for part of my dreary journey to desire to +refuse his offer. Young Khor (that was the lad's name) insisted on +carrying my wallet, so I walked lightly along, with a cheerful heart. +Thus I found, when most in distress, Providence had sent me aid. After +walking about two versts through the wood, we saw the old man coming +towards us. + +"He embraced me warmly. `Heaven protect you, my son,' he said; `all the +brethren here will earnestly pray for you: may you escape our +persecutors wherever you go, and may friends be raised up for you +whenever you require them.' I thanked him warmly. `Khor will go with +you--Khor will guide you till you arrive at the abode of brother Sidor. +It is but three days' journey from hence. Khor will then easily find +his way back, and Sidor will then guide you on your way farther;-- +farewell.' With these words we parted. Young Khor was a pleasant, +cheerful companion, and as he knew the country well, he led me by far +more direct roads than I could have found myself. It was truly an +agreeable change for me to have Khor with me. Instead of being left to +my own thoughts, I had pleasant conversation. He, too, had brought a +Testament with him, although he had not the whole Bible, and whenever we +sat down to rest he pulled it out and read to me, or I read to him. We +were now also able to travel by day instead of by night, as he was able +to conduct me by byways where we were not likely to meet any one to +interrupt us. At length we reached the abode of brother Sidor. He was +a grey-headed old man, and from sad experience had learned caution. We +knocked three times at his door before he opened it. When he had done +so he did not speak, but stood in the porch, examining us from head to +foot. This scrutiny was apparently satisfactory. `Come in and sit +down,' said he, at the same time placing fish, and bread, and cheese, +and milk before us. `There, eat; when you have satisfied your hunger, I +will hear what you wish to tell me.' We gladly did as he desired, and +when we had satisfied our hunger, I frankly told him all my history, and +the object of my journey. `Ah, my son! I knew your father, Loutich +Saveleff, very well, in my youth. We were fellow-servants together at +Petersburg, in the establishment of Count Paul Illarionovitch. He kept +up a great state, and gave great parties, and made us wear magnificent +liveries, and we thought ourselves very fine fellows. When he died we +could not procure other situations, and as we had saved nothing and +could not pay our masters the tax, we were compelled to return to our +native villages and to resume our labours in the field. This at first +we thought very hard work, and grumbled at it exceedingly, but we could +not help ourselves, and what at first we fancied a curse proved a +blessing in the end. By that means the blessed light of gospel truth +was made to shine on us. Your father was the first to receive it, and +having procured two Bibles he sent me one of them, as the richest gift +he could bestow. At first I valued it only as a gift from him, for I +loved him much; and that he knew, or he would not have ventured to send +it to me. I, however, began to read, and as I read on I learned to +value it for itself, and would not now change it for all the wealth of +the Czar. What, I often ask myself, would the world be without it? +What can for a moment be compared to it? How dark, how gloomy would our +life appear! How unjust, how unmerciful the Creator of the universe! +No guide for the present; no certainty, no hope for the future. It +teaches us all we should wish for, all we should desire to know; how to +walk in this present life, how to bear affliction, what to expect in the +future.' Much more to the same effect the old man said. I loved the +word of God, I had suffered much for its sake, but he opened my mind to +many things; he showed more clearly to me its exceeding brilliancy. +Thus Christian men always gain advantage by holding converse with each +other about the volume on which their creed is founded. Oh! miserable, +miserable men who have not that foundation! I spent a whole day under +Sidor's roof. Young Khor rested there too. He then set off with a +light step to return home; he had no fears. In the solitude of the +forest, on the vast steppe at midnight or noonday, he was sustained by a +belief that One who could humble Himself to become man, and who so loved +mankind that He could suffer death for their sakes, was ever watching +over him. This knowledge had taught him to discredit all the foolish +superstitions of our country. The _Domvoi_ (the familiar spirit of the +house, similar to the Brownie of Scotland) had no terrors for him; +neither had the _Roussalka_ (the wood fairy), nor the _Leechie_ (the +demon of the forest). He knew that there was no such being as the +_Trichka_, who, it is supposed, will one day visit the country and +commit incalculable mischief, nor any such thing as a _Vodainoi_, or +water spirit; in truth, he felt sure that God would allow only one evil +being to infest the earth, and that merely to try mankind, and the +better to fit them for the time when he and his angels shall be chained +for ever and ever. I was truly sorry to part from Khor, though my new +friend Sidor was a man I was heartily glad to meet. He had seen much of +the world: he had been in France and in England, and he told me that he +much liked the English. At the time he was there he said he did not +know the reason of this liking, but since then he had discovered that it +arose from the national religion, so free from bigotry, superstition, +and priestcraft, faults which have completely destroyed all purity in +the national religion of Russia. + +"But I must not stop to describe the conversations I held with old +Sidor. He pressed me to spend some days with him to recruit my strength +thoroughly before I should recommence my journey. I was glad of a +little delay; at the same time I warned him that, should it be +discovered that a stranger was at his cottage without a pass, he might +be subject to severe penalties. + +"`We never calculate the risk when a brother requires our help,' he +replied, taking my arm. `He who went about doing good, and died for our +sakes, taught us that lesson, with many others, which we are too apt to +forget. Say, therefore, no more about it, my son, but lay thee down and +rest till thy strength has returned, and thou canst prosecute thy +journey with renewed hope and confidence.' + +"I could not resist old Sidor's pressing, and, with a satisfaction I can +scarcely describe, I threw myself on his bed, and in an instant was +asleep. My sleep, however, was feverish and troubled. I had felt ill +before I reached his cottage, and now, when I awoke, I found a raging +fever on me. How long I had slept I know not. Old Sidor was by my +side. There he sat, day after day, and night after night, tending me +with as much care as a father would an only son. Several weeks I thus +lay, hovering between life and death. Oftentimes my old friend told me +that he was inclined to summon a leech to see me, but, if he did so, he +was afraid that I might be betrayed, and delivered into the hands of our +enemies. He besought, therefore, with much earnestness and prayer, the +great Physician of our souls, that He would, in His abundant mercy, heal +me. Surely such prayers are not in vain. In a short time the fever +left me, and my strength rapidly returned. I had been out of the hut +more than once to ramble through the woods, but was yet, I fancied, +unfit to prosecute my journey. I lay on the bed while Sidor sat by my +side reading that book which was seldom out of our hands--the Book of +Life, when we saw through the open doorway his little grandson running +in haste towards the hut. He entered too much out of breath to speak; +in his hand he bore a feather, which he held out towards me. I took it +in my hand; it was from the wing of a bird. I guessed in a moment what +it betokened--so did Sidor. + +"`Our foes have discovered your retreat, and this is sent by a brother +to bid you flee.' + +"The boy nodded, and waved his hand hurriedly towards the door. I threw +my arms for a moment on the neck of my old friend. + +"`Keep straight on the way I showed you yesterday, till you come to a +tree scathed and blasted by lightning. To the right of it is a thicket; +on the farther side, midway down it, you will find some dried brambles; +remove them, and you will perceive a narrow passage. Half-way down it +the ground beneath your feet will sound hollow. On your right hand, by +bending aside the boughs, you will discover a further pile of brambles, +which appear to have been thrown there by chance. Draw them aside, and +there will be found a cavity; enter without hesitation, drawing the +brambles over your head. You will find there provisions for several +days, and a couch on which to rest your yet unpractised limbs. Many a +fugitive brother has there found shelter for weeks together. Farewell, +my son; Heaven guard you; you have not a moment to lose.' + +"These words he uttered as rapidly as possible, yet it was necessary to +be precise, to enable me to find the spot capable of concealing me. +Again embracing him, I darted from the hut in the direction he indicated +as fast as my legs, long unaccustomed to rapid movement, would carry me. +Once I looked back on hearing a shout; I could just distinguish between +the trees several men, some on horseback, approaching the hut. For an +instant I gave myself up for lost, yet I continued my flight. I found +soon that I was not followed, then I trembled for the fate of my old +friend. If he is accused of having harboured a fugitive like me, and +cannot give an account of me, the knout and Siberia will be his fate. I +felt inclined to turn back, but then I remembered that I should only the +more certainly bring ruin on him, by proving him guilty of the crime. + +"`Alas! Alas!' I cried, `is it my fate to injure those who benefit +me?' I had little time for thought, though. I must hurry on; my +pursuers might soon be on my track. I began to fear that my destination +was suspected at the settlement, and that notice of my flight had been +sent along the road before me. Perhaps even at the very end of my +journey I might be seized, and sent a prisoner to Siberia. + +"Still, as long as I could, I resolved to struggle on, and trust to +God's mercy. This thought gave strength to my feet. On I went in a +direct line towards the scathed pine of which Sidor had told me. I was +too long accustomed to the marks on the trees, imperceptible to ordinary +eyes, to be led to diverge from my course. There was an open glade, and +the tree stood before me on the other side. I hurried across the glade, +and had nearly reached the farther side, when I heard a shout, and saw +several horsemen emerging from the shade of the trees. The thicket was +before me. I darted round it, and at once saw the bramble which marked +the entrance to the narrow passage. To creep under the brambles and to +run along the passage was the work of a moment. The shouts of the +horsemen grew louder and louder. Had I not known of the passage I +should not have had a chance of escape. I searched with beating heart +for the hollow ground. My foot discovered it by the sound. I removed +the branches and the bundle of brambles, and crept into a hole, drawing +them again over me. I found there was space before me, so I crept on. +As I began to move, I judged by the sound of their voices that the +horsemen had reached the thicket. + +"`I saw him near about here, to a certainty,' said one; `he cannot be +far from this.' + +"`We will unearth him, the impious rebel, if he is hid near here,' +exclaimed another. + +"`He ran fast; he may have got away again on the other side of the +thicket,' said a third. + +"`Let us try this place first,' cried the man who had previously spoken, +and immediately several shots were fired into the thicket. + +"`Come out, you rebel!--come out!' exclaimed several together. + +"These words gave me courage, for it convinced me that my pursuers knew +nothing of my place of concealment, and also that they possessed no +superabundance of bravery or zeal. Had they been very zealous, they +would not have cried `come out!' but they would have forced their way +in, and dragged me out. So I lay snug, while they expended their powder +and shot on the harmless bushes. My only fear was, that they would +shoot each other. It would have been wrong, you know, to wish them +ill--they were only doing what, in their ignorance, they thought their +duty. + +"I lay all the time perfectly quiet, but without alarm, only wishing +that they would go away, and allow me to continue my journey. I was +anxious, also, to discover by anything they said what had become of my +kind friend Sidor, but they did not mention him. Still, I knew that his +chance of escape was very small; all I could do was to pray that he +might be supported in his affliction. + +"My pursuers continued beating about the bush for some minutes; at last +one exclaimed, `There is no use in looking here, men; he has gone on, +depend on it.' + +"`One hunt more before we go!' shouted another. `Unearth the miscreant! +Unearth the heretic! Drive him out from this--drive him out!--he's +here, depend on it!' + +"Scarcely had these words been uttered, when a number of shots were +again fired into the thicket--the people apparently loading and firing +as fast as they could. + +"`If he is in there, he must be killed or wounded by this time, so now, +men, let us try if we can find him!' cried one of the party, apparently +more eager than his companions. + +"On this I heard the crackling of branches, as if the bushes were being +broken and pushed aside as the people forced their way into the thicket. +I could not now help feeling some apprehension that my place of retreat +should be discovered, for I fancied they had got into the very pathway +which led to it, and I feared that I might have been careless in my +hurry in drawing the brambles over the entrance to my burrow; or I might +have broken some of the twigs, which would clearly indicate my +whereabouts, should any woodman or hunter be among my pursuers. +Fortunately there was no dog with them, or he would speedily have +ferreted me out. I thought the time very long that they were hunting +about for me. At last one of them exclaimed-- + +"`Are you satisfied that he is not here?' + +"`I suppose he is not,' was the answer. + +"`Well, then, he must thank you for not finding that out sooner,' +replied the man who disbelieved in my taking shelter in the thicket. +`We have given him a good start, if he knows how to take advantage of +it; but let us have no more delay--so after him again, my men!' + +"These words were a great relief to me. My pursuers apparently worked +their way out of the thicket as best they could, with torn clothes and +scratched hands, and, mounting their horses, galloped away through the +wood. + +"I would not, however, venture to move out of my place of concealment +for some time, for I thought it very likely that somebody might be left +to watch the thicket by those who seemed convinced that I had taken +shelter within it. I, however, crawled farther in, and then found +myself in a chamber, hollowed out in the earth, sufficiently large to +hold several persons. It was lighted, though somewhat dimly, by two +apertures in the roof, grated over, and then covered with bushes, so +ingeniously placed that no one could suspect what was beneath. + +"There was a table and some benches, and several raised places for +couches. Besides this, there was a sort of cupboard to hold provisions. +The place had evidently been formed with great care for the purpose of +concealment. Some parts had been hollowed out by art, though I +concluded from the appearance of the roof and sides that there had been +originally a cavern there formed by nature. Whether it had been +constructed by our brethren the Molokani, or at a period antecedent to +the persecutions they had suffered, I could not tell to a certainty, but +I thought it very likely that it was of a much more ancient date. As +may be supposed, I was not in a condition to consider the subject. The +unusual exertion and excitement I had just gone through made rest very +requisite, so, commending myself to my Maker, I lay down on the couch, +and endeavoured to sleep. Sleep, however, for long refused to visit my +eyelids. I listened, but not a sound could I hear. Thankful was I when +I felt sleep stealing on me at last." + + + +CHAPTER THIRTEEN. + + Fears for old Sidor's Safety--Continues Journey--Encounter with young + Horse-drovers--Superstitions of Russia--Young Vacia--Sleeps in a Tree. + +"I awoke much refreshed. A glimmer of light still came into the cave, +so I knew that night had not yet set in. My chief anxiety was now to +learn what had become of Sidor. I arose, and took some of the food I +found in the cupboard. It consisted of bread and cheese and dried fish, +with a pitcher of water. The food, though very dry, was free from +mould. It was sufficient to sustain nature; more could not be required. +Much strengthened, I resolved before proceeding on my way to go back to +Sidor's hut as soon as darkness would allow me to approach it without +risk of being seized by my enemies. I therefore crawled out of the +hole, and, placing the brambles over the entrance as before, stood +upright in the pathway leading to it through the thicket. I walked +along cautiously, listening as I went; I heard no sound, so, removing +the bushes at the entrance, I looked out. The sun had just set, and +darkness was rapidly coming on. I looked around in every direction; I +could see no one. It was, however, safer to wait till it was so dark +that I could not be distinguished at a distance, should any of my +enemies be prowling about. I went back, and sat down on the ground. +When night came on I sallied forth from my hiding-place, and walked +towards Sidor's hut. No light gleamed through the window or open +doorway as I approached. This foreboded ill, I thought. I reached the +hut; all was silent. I looked in at the window; I could see no one, nor +could I hear a sound. I entered the hut; it was empty. By the glimmer +of light which yet remained I discovered that even the scanty furniture, +the old man's only property, had been removed. There was nothing to +tell me what had become of my kind friend, but my fears suggested that +by the cruel hand of the law he had been carried off, and would probably +ere long be dragging his weary feet over the burning steppes, or the +wide expanses of snow in Siberia, probably to sink down and die ere half +the journey was performed. As I thought of the suffering I had brought +on the kind old man, I threw myself on the ground, and for the first +time for many a long year gave way to a bitter flood of tears. It was +wrong, I know. It was mistrusting Providence; but human nature is weak. +I remembered this, and prayed for strength. It came. I arose, and +sinking on my knees, earnestly prayed that the old man's sufferings +might be lightened as much as was for his good. I knew on whom he would +trust, and had no more fears for him. + +"Calling my thoughts to the necessity of taking steps for my own safety, +I hurried on my way. It was important that before the morning dawned I +should have placed many versts between my pursuers and me. They were +not men, I guessed, to venture through the forest at night, and I +calculated that, after having chased me as they supposed for an hour or +two, and not finding me, they would give up the pursuit and return home. +All night I walked on; the fresh cool air revived my strength and +spirits; when morning came I felt much less fatigue than I expected, for +the chief portion of the night I had been in the open country. At dawn +I again made for a wood for the purpose of concealment, and as day +advanced, and people were likely to be about, I climbed up as usual into +a tree to sleep. I used to fasten myself on to a bough with my sash, so +that I had no fear of falling off. In the evening, having surveyed the +country carefully, to see that there was no one apparently pursuing me, +I came down and continued my journey. For several days I met with no +adventure. I was daily gaining strength; and as I approached my +father's village, and expected so soon to meet him and my mother, and +her I loved, my hopes grew stronger, and my spirits rose. Yet I had +still a wide extent of country to traverse. I went on for days together +without even seeing a human being. On the high road I should have met +them, but the country itself is so thinly inhabited, that often for +thirty or forty versts together not a hut is to be found. My provisions +were now again running short; how to replenish my stock I scarcely knew. +I had reached the brow of a hill one morning, when I saw below me an +encampment. On looking closer I saw that it was composed of young lads +who were tending a drove of horses feeding in the plain below. They had +kindled a large fire, and were busily cooking their morning meal. + +"I had no fears of their intentionally betraying me, and the fact of +their cooking arrangements made me suspect that they were some way from +home, so that they would not speak of me thoughtlessly, and thus get me +into trouble. I was very soon among them. + +"`My dear boys,' said I, `I am a wayfarer, hungry and weary; can you +spare me some of your food?' + +"They all looked at me earnestly for a minute before one of them spoke, +as if they would learn if I was telling the truth. Then, satisfied +apparently, they all found their tongues together. + +"`Gladly, gladly, stranger, whoever you are. Come and sit down and +rest--you are welcome.' + +"Ah! The candour and heartiness of youth before bitter experience has +taught it to mistrust the world is very delightful. They were boiling +potatoes. They had a large can of milk with them. The potatoes were +just cooked. One of the lads plunged his long knife into the cauldron, +and drew out a potato at the point. He presented it to me, with some +salt, in a dish. There were eight lads in all, fine intelligent +fellows, not serfs, but sons of freemen, small farmers and others: The +occupation in which they were engaged is looked upon as honourable. It +is highly exciting and interesting. Their herds were feeding together +near them. The moment one was seen to stray, one or two lads threw +themselves on their own steeds, which they kept tethered near, and +galloped off in pursuit of the straggler. They had, too, to defend +their cattle from the wolves--often hazardous work. They offered me +some milk, and then each lad helped himself to some potatoes; they had +an abundance cooked, so that I was not depriving them of their food. +They were all light-hearted and communicative. They told me how they +had been startled in the night by unearthly sounds, and whence they +proceeded they could not tell. + +"`Not tell!' said one, looking up from his dish of potatoes. `We did +not see what it was, but we can tell well enough. It was the _Vodainoi_ +calling to us from the neighbouring river, trying to tempt us to come +near, that she might draw us into the water. She has drowned many +people in that way. Why she does it I do not know. Perhaps she wants +their souls to destroy them; perhaps their bodies, to eat them. She is +very beautiful, all clothed in green garments, glittering with jewels. +She is never seen in the daytime--very seldom at night. No one would +wish to see her, for she is certain to deceive all she meets. The only +chance of escaping is to clasp the cross, and pray to our patron saint; +even then she will try to tempt the unwary to let go the cross, and +cease praying. Oh! She is very vile, with all her loveliness.' + +"`What you say is very true, I doubt not,' said another lad, `but the +sounds we heard last night were as likely to have come from the wood as +from the water. Now, to my mind, it was the _Leechie_ calling to us +from the forest. He is as bad as the _Vodainoi_, and ugly instead of +handsome. Anybody seeing him is frightened, and runs away; so far he +can do much less harm. He is a great brown monster, the colour of the +bark of a tree; he never appears in the day, and at night always keeps +out of the moonlight, as if he was afraid of anything bright. He does +not shriek out like some other spirits, but goes moaning and groaning +about the forest as if he was in pain. So it will be to the end of the +world; he never sleeps and never dies. Some time ago little Koulik, the +cobbler of our village, was returning home at night from his brother's +cottage, three versts off, where he had been to the wedding of a niece, +when just as he came to the wood by the side of the hill he saw a +_Leechie_ looking out at him from among the trees. He did not cry out, +for he is a brave fellow, but tried to pass this evil spirit as fast as +he could. He did not think of his cross, though, and he did not say his +prayers, so the _Leechie_ caught hold of him, and kept knocking him +about, against the trunks of the trees and over the fallen branches and +roots, till he had scarcely a whole bone left in his body. The +_Leechie_ did not say a word, but only went _clack, clack, clack_, and +chuckled with pleasure. Poor Koulik was almost dead with terror and +pain, but still he never thought of his cross. Had the _Leechie_ once +got him well inside the forest, I do not know what would have become of +him. He would probably never have been seen again by mortal man. He +had just sense enough to keep outside, and when he was driven in to run +out again, till at length the dawn appeared, and the _Leechie_ left him. +More dead than alive, he had just strength to crawl home and take to +his bed. Next day he went to the priest, and the priest asked him if he +had thought of his cross, and said his prayers. He confessed that he +had not. "Then you only got your deserts," said the priest; "how can +you expect to be protected from evil spirits if you do not pray to the +saints, you infidel? Do you think they would take the trouble of +looking after you if you do not pray to them and bring them offerings to +their shrines?" Frightened out of his wits and deeply penitent, poor +little Koulik promised to buy two dozen wax-tapers at least, as soon as +he could scrape together the money, and to bring them to the shrine of +his patron saint. The priest told him if he did this the _Leechie_ +would not dare to attack him for a whole year or more.' The other young +lads seemed deeply interested with this story of their companion, and to +believe it implicitly, so I took the opportunity of explaining to them +the folly, not to say the wickedness, of such a superstition. I told +them that in this instance the appearance of the _Leechie_ was easily +explained. The cobbler Koulik had, without doubt, taken more vodka than +his brain could stand, and that in his tipsy state he had fallen against +the trunks and roots of the trees and hurt himself. The priest ought to +have known this. If not, he was a blind leader of the blind. If he did +guess it, and knew better than to believe in such folly, he was worse, +and designedly imposed on the people. I told them that a belief in +ghosts and goblins and omens, and such like things, was a sin, and +showed a total want of faith in God's guidance and providence. They +were all lies and inventions of the Evil One, and were introduced into +the world by him to deceive and mislead human beings. The lads listened +to me attentively. Much more I said to the same effect. I urged them +to think of what I had said, but not to talk about the matter to +strangers till they were convinced I was right. How I longed to have a +Bible to give them, but I could not spare mine. Some of them could +read, but they had never even heard of the book, and knew not that the +religion they professed was drawn from it. I grieved to part from these +fine lads. I wished them farewell. They did not inquire who I was or +whence I came, but I won their hearts by speaking to them the truth. +They were ready to do anything for me, and one of them insisted on +lending me his horse and accompanying me part of my way. This was a +great help to me, because I got over the ground three times as fast as I +could otherwise have done, and could besides venture to travel during +the daytime, as a person on horseback with an attendant would be less +suspected than a poor wayworn traveller on foot. Thankful for the +assistance so unexpectedly afforded me, I set off with my young +companion. He was one of the most intelligent of the lads, and full of +life and spirits. Vacia was his name. He told me he was an orphan: he +lived in the house of a neighbouring proprietor, more as a servant than +as an equal, though his parents were both noble, he believed. He never +knew them. `Ah! I wish that I had some one like you to live with,' he +exclaimed; `I would go with you round the world.' I was pleased with +the lad's warmth. `I am but a poor man myself,' I answered, `very poor, +Vacia; believe me, I could not afford you protection.'--`I care not for +that; I like you much, very much; not for what you appear, but for what +you say. You speak wisdom;--you speak to my heart.' I told him where I +got that wisdom; that I spoke not of myself, but that I spoke from the +Bible, and that all who would go there would get the same. We rode on +talking thus for many versts. I at last reined up my horse and reminded +him that he must return home, that the horses were not his, and that I +had no right to tire them. + +"`Oh, the Count would not object to my thus using them,' he answered. +`He is not unkind, understand. I am grateful to him for many things, +but I cannot love him. He has no soul--he cannot talk to me--he never +reads--he has no thought except as to what he will eat and what he will +drink. He esteems his cook more than his wife--more than any one. Who +can love such a man?' + +"I fully entered into young Vacia's feelings. `I should much like to +have your company,' I replied; `you would make my days far more pleasant +than they now are, and I might instruct you in many things you do not +now know; but, alas! My young friend, this cannot be. My course is +full of difficulties and dangers, and I must not let any one share it +with me.' What I now said only increased the lad's ardour. +Difficulties and dangers he longed to encounter. He scarcely knew, +however, what they signified. The danger was not death, but a +protracted march to Siberia, or the knout, and imprisonment--inflictions +far more trying than wounds or death. `Come, come, my young friend, we +must part,' I exclaimed, throwing myself from my horse. `I am most +grateful to you for your regard and for your kindness, but farther I +will not let you go with me.' I was obliged to be firm. I gave him the +reins of my horse. His was without saddle or bridle. He had guided it +with a rough halter. When he saw that I was firm, he burst into tears. + +"`Who shall I have to speak to me? Where shall I again hear such words +as you have uttered?' he exclaimed. + +"Again I told him I was but a poor peasant, and that I could not help +him. All I could do was to advise him not to rest till he had found a +copy of that book which had given me such wisdom as I possessed. I knew +not how further to afford him advice. + +"`I will, I will!' he exclaimed. `I will find that book before I rest +from the search. When I have found it, I will not cease from studying +it, and I will often think of you who told me of it.' + +"This thought seemed to console him. He told me that if I would let him +ride one verst more with me he would then turn back. This I could not +refuse; but he rode very slowly, and made the verst a very long one. At +the end of it I dismounted once more, on the skirts of a wood, when, +embracing my young friend, I charged him to return, while I plunged +hastily among the trees. I hurried on that I might get into the depths +of the forest before I should chance to meet any one who might have +authority to stop me. For several more days I travelled on, across +plains and through forests, till my provisions ran short. I wanted rest +also. A few versts on was a village, but I dared not enter it till the +evening, and I must then depart privately and speedily, before any +inquiries might be made concerning me. I had plenty of money, so that I +could always purchase provisions. I, one morning, had just entered a +forest; I walked on through it till I suddenly found myself on the +farther edge. It was on a slight elevation, and, as I looked down on +the plain surrounding it, I recognised the village I was in search of. +It was scarcely more than fifty versts from my native hamlet. In two +nights more I might be there. I longed to push on, and for the moment I +felt that I could reach the place by the following morning; but I +remembered that by precipitation or carelessness I should make +unavailing all my long-continued toils and exertions. Of course every +day, as I drew nearer home, I ran a greater chance of being recognised. +I retreated, therefore, a little way into the forest, and climbing up +into a tree, secured myself as usual, and fell asleep. Those who have +not toiled on, day after day, can scarcely understand the suddenness +with which I could lose all consciousness in sleep, or the ease with +which I could again awake at the slightest unusual sound. Those placed +in the position I so long have been in, can most fully appreciate the +blessing of sleep." + + + +CHAPTER FOURTEEN. + + A Russian Village--Danger of being discovered--Providential Warning-- + Flight--Approach to his Native Village--Horror on discovering his Home + deserted--Encounter with old Soukhoroukof--Taken to his House--Account + of his Parents--Aneouta carried away--His Agony--Encouraged to rouse + himself--Plans for rescuing his Parents and Aneouta--Sets off again-- + Encounter with Zingari--Old Friends--A bold Exploit--They offer to + assist him--Plan arranged. + +"I have given a far longer account of myself and my travels than I +intended, gentlemen, but I wished to interest you," continued the +stranger. "I trust that I have done so already. What I have further to +tell you will, I hope, excite your sympathy and commiseration, and +induce you to accede to the request I have to make. I awoke just before +sunset, and descending from my tree hastened towards the village, now +bathed in the calm glow of the evening. I knew the spot well. I had +often been there. I recognised the little church with its gilt dome and +blue and pink walls, the pride of all the inhabitants--the whitewashed +houses of the richer villagers, and the rough log-huts, thatched with +straw, of the poorer serfs. A sparkling stream ran by it, and green +fields and orchards surrounded the place. It was altogether a +flourishing little village. The stream ran from out of the side of the +very hill from which I was descending. I stopped by its brink, and +having enjoyed a draught of the clear, pure, cold water, I took off my +upper garments, and washed away all signs of travel from my countenance. +Much refreshed, I proceeded. I had hopes of finding some one who could +give me information about my parents. I walked on with as unconcerned +an air as possible. First I went to a baker's shop, where I bought +bread, but he scarcely knew the name of my village. I procured also +some cheese, and salt, and dried fish. With a beating heart I made +inquiries of those of whom I bought these articles, but not a particle +of information could I obtain. At last I thought that people began to +look at me suspiciously, and that it would be more prudent to take my +departure. Having come to this resolution, I went straight on, neither +looking to the right hand nor to the left, and endeavouring to appear as +unconcerned as possible. I had gone a little way when a person passed +me as if running to reach some object before me. He did not look at me, +but I heard him say, `Hasten on, brother. Tarry not to-night--you are +suspected, and may ere long be pursued.' + +"`Thanks, thanks; may our brother be rewarded by Heaven,' I replied, +without looking at him or altering my pace. To this day I know not the +countenance of the man who gave me this timely warning. As soon as he +had gone on some way, I began to walk quicker than before; and darkness +having now concealed me from any loungers near the village, I hastened +on as fast as my feet could carry me. Young Vacia's horse would have +been truly welcome, still I dared not rest. Never had I travelled on so +rapidly. I had, indeed, two powerful motives to hurry my steps--fear of +capture, and a longing desire to see my parents and my betrothed. I +escaped the threatened danger. Suffice it to say that, after another +night passed on foot, I stood within half a verst of my father's door, +yet I dared not venture into the village by daylight. I had hoped to +reach it before dawn, but my weary feet refused to carry me along +faster. I could gain no information of those I loved. All my friends +whom I could trust had been removed. Many new inhabitants had been sent +to the place, and I was as a stranger on the spot where my childhood and +youth had been passed. I lay concealed all day in a sheltered nook on +the hill-side, which commanded a wide view in every direction, and would +enable me to retreat should any one approach. How can I paint the +anxiety of those hours, as I looked down on my native village, and +recognised my father's cottage, and every spot I knew so well? I tried +to discover any inhabitants moving about the door, but none came out +whom I could see all day. Evening drew on; the cows came lowing home to +be milked, the horses were driven forth to their pastures, and the field +labourers loitered in weary from their work. Many a hearth in the +village sent up its tiny wreath of smoke into the pure blue sky, but I +could see none ascending from my father's cottage. Forebodings of evil +tidings grew upon me. It was impossible longer to curb my anxiety. I +hastened down the hill, regardless of danger. No one observed me as I +hurried on. The cottage stood in a small garden, railed off from a +field. I ran across the field, leaped over the railing, and looked in +at a window at the back of the dwelling. All was silent; no one was +there. Perhaps they may be sitting in the porch in front of the house, +I thought. My sudden appearance will alarm them, though; but it cannot +be helped. I got over the paling again, and with beating, anxious heart +went round to the front. The porch was empty; the door was off its +hinges. My heart sank within me. A villager was passing--an old man--I +remembered his face well. He used to be kind to me as a boy, but he +liked not our new tenets. + +"`What has become of Loutich Saveleff and his wife and their adopted +daughter, my father?' I asked, with a trembling voice. + +"`Do you belong to this place, as your voice informs me, and ask what +has become of them?' exclaimed old Soukhoroukof. `I always told my +friend Saveleff that the same thing would happen to him which has +happened to his son, if he would persist in adopting the newfangled +doctrines which have been so rife of late years. What has become of his +son I know not. It is supposed generally that he is dead. He was a +good youth, but fanciful and unsteady. Not content with the +old-established, well-approved religion of this country, but he must +needs run after these new inventions, and get himself into trouble. +Well, I was telling you about friend Saveleff. He had long been +suspected of harbouring those doctrines, when lately it was discovered +that he had given shelter to three or four convicted heretics escaping +from justice. None of our old villagers would have informed against +him, but some of the newcomers brought the matter before the _Starosta_, +who was obliged to look into it. He carried the matter, as in duty +bound, to the steward, who, unfortunately for old Saveleff, owed him a +spite, and was but too glad to indulge his ill-feeling. The steward, +Morgatch (I will not say what I think of him), brought the affair up to +our Barin, the Count. Now the Count is a staunch religionist, and +wonderful orthodox; though between you and me, if his heart was looked +into, he cares as little for priests and the good of the Church as he +does for the Grand Sultan of the Turks. However, whatever that--hum!-- +Morgatch advises him to do he does. Morgatch brought forward plenty of +witnesses to prove that the heretics had been seen in Saveleff's house, +and that he and his wife and daughter had served them with food; and +what is more, read out of the Bible, and prayed with them. Such +atrocious crimes, of course, could not go unpunished; Morgatch, to make +sure of the condemnation of his victims, brought forward evidence to +prove that, not content with holding those pernicious doctrines +themselves, they had endeavoured to instil them into others. This, too, +was clearly proved. Saveleff had not a word to say in his defence, nor +had his wife, but rather they boldly confessed and gloried in their +crime. Had they been serfs, their owners might have claimed them; but +they were free, and the old couple, without the power of appeal, were +condemned to be transported to Siberia. No mercy was shown them on +account of their grey hairs and their excellent character. They were +sent off with felons, murderers, thieves, and traitors, to Moscow. One +consolation is, that ere this they have probably sunk down, overcome +with fatigue and ill usage, and been released from their sufferings by +death.' + +"I groaned as I heard these words; I had no questions to ask concerning +my parents--the worst was revealed to me. `And Aneouta, their daughter, +what became of her?' I gasped out. `Ah, poor girl, her fate was a hard +one. She would have been transported also, but that--hum!--Morgatch +proved that she was a serf, the property of a brother of our Barin's, +the Count; that her father and mother were serfs, and that she had never +been manumitted, as old Saveleff, who had adopted her, supposed. +Instead, therefore, of being sent to Siberia, she was packed off without +ceremony to her native village, to work in the fields, I suppose, or-- +But what is the matter, young man? You are ill, surely,' continued the +good-natured Soukhoroukof, extending a hand to me, as he saw me at these +words about to sink on the ground. + +"`Oh, nothing, nothing,' I answered, trying to conceal my agitation, but +in vain. + +"`Young men do not look like that for nothing,' he replied. `Come +along--come into my house. You require food; perhaps a glass of kvass +will do you good. Come along,' and seizing my arm he led me, scarcely +conscious of where I was going, to his own cottage. + +"Had I had time for consideration I would not have allowed the good man +to have run the risk of harbouring me. He made me sit down at his +table, and gave me food, and the kvass he promised. I ate and drank +mechanically. + +"`When did all this happen?' I asked, with a trembling voice. + +"`About a fortnight ago only,' he answered, looking very hard at me. +`You seem very interested in the people; did you know them?' + +"`I did,' I answered, doubly agitated; `but oh, father, do not ask me +questions; it can do no good.' + +"`I must ask you one. Are you young Steffanos Saveleff, my old friend's +son?' + +"`I am,' I answered, bowing my head. `And oh, father, I would not have +entered your house had you given me time to think of the danger I might +place you in; and you, I am sure, will not betray me.' + +"`Speak not of it, my son. You have eaten of my loaf and my salt, and +drunk of my cup, and you are safe. No one saw you enter, and no one +need see you depart. Rest a little while, and then go on your way. I +must not venture to harbour you longer than a few hours. Before +daylight you should be far from this.' + +"`Thanks, thanks, father!' I exclaimed. `And now you know who I am, +will you advise me how to proceed? Have I a chance of rescuing my +parents, should they be still alive? You know that I am betrothed to +Aneouta. Can I save her from the fate to which she is doomed?' + +"Soukhoroukof leaned back in his chair and thought for some time. `I +have an idea,' he exclaimed at length. `The Emperor, our great Czar, is +about to be crowned shortly. On such an occasion he will surely grant +the requests of his loving subjects. Get a petition drawn up: go to +Moscow: present it. Tell the Czar your whole story. He will be +interested. If he grants your petition, as he may, ask him boldly to +increase the favour by enabling you to marry Aneouta. Say no more than +that you are betrothed to a beautiful girl who loves you, and that +difficulties which the Czar alone can overcome lie in the way of your +nuptials.' + +"`Oh, my kind father, the advice you give is excellent,' I answered; +`but thousands will be offering similar petitions, and what chance shall +I have?' + +"`You will have as good a chance as others,' he replied. `Try and be +one of the first. But I doubt if many will venture to present +petitions. The difficulty of reaching the city is great, and few, even +if they wish it, will be allowed to go, while those who dwell there are +not likely to have any petitions to present. Try your chance, at all +events.' + +"`I will, I will,' I exclaimed, grasping eagerly at the proposal, as a +sinking man does at a straw, though I had little hope of its success. +`But how shall I reach Moscow?' I asked. `It is a long, long way, I +fear, from this.' + +"`Go to the banks of the Volga; you will there find steamers going up to +Nishni; get on board one of them, and your way will then be easy.' + +"I warmly thanked the kind Soukhoroukof for his advice, and rose to take +my departure. I was unwilling to jeopardise him by remaining a moment +longer under his roof than was necessary. `One thing more I would wish +to speak about before I go,' said I, taking his hand. `Oh, my father, +if you would but study that book on which we place our faith, how happy, +how wise it would make you!' + +"`Well, well, my son, speak not of it. Perhaps I do: I think not as I +used to do. The times are evil. It is necessary to be cautious. I +will say no more on that point. But I have another matter to speak to +you about before you go. You will want money to prosecute your plans. +I am a widower; I have no children left to me alive. The bones of my +sons whiten many a battle-field. My daughters died giving birth to +those who will be dragged off to the same fate;--slaves, slaves all. I +have no one to provide for; I am rich--rich in gold, that is to say, +poor in everything else. I can well spare what I give. Take this +purse; it contains two hundred roubles. It will help you on your way. +Heaven prosper you!' + +"My heart came into my mouth as the old man uttered these words. I +could not reply to him; no words could have expressed my feelings; I +took his hand, I bathed it with tears. I fell on his neck and wept. He +saw how grateful I was; I would not have had him for a moment think me +otherwise. `And a less sum than this would have purchased my Aneouta's +freedom,' I exclaimed; for I could not help thinking of my betrothed, +though I did not in any possible way desire to withdraw it from the +still more important object of saving my parents from worse than +slavery--a banishment to Siberia, or rather, a cruel death on the road. + +"`I think not,' answered my host to my last observation. `The brother +of our Barin, the Count, who owns Aneouta, is not likely to give her her +freedom for any sum a poor man can offer; through the Emperor, alone can +you hope to succeed with him. He will not refuse to comply with any +request made to him by the Czar; depend on that. If you fail with the +Emperor then come back to me, and we will try what money will do with +the Barin. I will offer to pay the money for the poor girl's freedom, +to adopt her. We must let her know, in the meantime, that she has still +friends in the world, and that she must keep up her spirits. She must +also endeavour to make herself of little value in the sight of the +Barin, her owner. She must feign sickness or foolishness, and disfigure +her countenance, or refuse to work; a woman's wit will advise her best, +though, what to do.' + +"`Oh, my father, my father, you overwhelm me!' I exclaimed. `I will go +and see her; I will carry your advice to her. It cannot be far out of +the way; I will travel day and night not to cause any delay.' + +"`You may pass by the estate on your way,' answered my old friend, `but +the danger is very great. Any one seeking to speak to her is certain to +be watched, and if you are captured, your punishment will be of the +severest kind. They will knout you till you are nearly dead, and you +will then be sent off to work for the rest of your miserable life in the +mines of Siberia.' `I know all that, but I will run every risk for +Aneouta's sake,' I answered; and so it was settled. In spite of the +almost desperate state of my prospects, I felt my spirits rise with the +hope of overcoming the difficulties which lay before me. Soukhoroukof +amply stocked my wallet with provisions, and before the end of another +hour I had left my native village three versts behind my back. Five +days' hard walking would, I calculated, bring me to where I expected to +find Aneouta. My strength, I felt, would sustain me till I had seen +her, and to see her I was determined at every risk. I would entrust to +no one our friend Soukhoroukof's message and advice. The idea occurred +to me that if I could but get a horse I might push on more rapidly than +I possibly could on foot, but how to secure one was the difficulty. To +purchase one would require more money than I could spare, and it would +be impossible to get one at the postmaster's without a pass. I should +instantly have been questioned, and imprisoned till I could give an +account of myself. Indeed, the greater portion of my route lay along +byroads, or no roads at all, across the country. Morning was +approaching, and I was getting very weary, for it must be remembered +that I had taken but little rest the previous day, when I saw in the +distance, reflected in the sky, a red gleam of light. It was a wild +district, and I knew of no village in that direction, but it appeared to +me to proceed from the burning of some cottage. `Some woodman's hut, +perhaps, has caught fire,' I said to myself, as I pushed onward. As I +drew still nearer there seemed to be several fires, and I began to fear +that an entire village, perhaps, was on fire. I determined, at all +events, to ascertain the cause of the conflagration before I stopped to +rest. I walked on, therefore, as fast as I could, and at length, having +reached a slightly rising ground, I saw before me a number of tents +grouped together, at a short distance from each other, and enclosed by a +circle of waggons. Outside the waggons were tethered horses, and +donkeys, and mules, and several head of cattle. The whole encampment, +even at that early hour, was astir: some persons were bending round the +fires which had at first attracted my attention, busily employed in +cooking; others were lashing up packages, filling panniers with the +contents of the tents; while young lads were carrying round fodder and +water to the horses and cattle. They might have been mistaken for a +party of merchants going with goods brought from far-off provinces to +the fair of Nishni, but I recognised them at once as a band of Zingari +or gipsies, probably bound in the same direction. I had often met these +people during the long period of my wanderings, and I was well +acquainted with their habits. Under certain restrictions from +Government they rove about the country, and lead a free and independent +life of a purely nomadic character. They are not so wealthy as those +who live in the towns, and sing on the stage and in public gardens; but +they are more trustworthy, and have more rude virtues than their +brethren of the city. Oftentimes had I spent nights together in their +tents when they knew that they were running some risk by sheltering me, +and might, perhaps, have obtained some reward by handing me over to +Government. I was in hopes that I might find among them some of my +former friends, so I resolved at once to go boldly among them. As I +drew near the encampment, a number of dogs rushed out from beneath the +waggons, and began barking at me furiously. The noise brought out +several of the men, who came from among the tents, peering at me +cautiously through the darkness. + +"`What do you want here?' asked one of them gruffly, calling back the +dogs. + +"`Shelter and assistance,' said I. + +"`You are not likely to find either one or the other here. We are +moving from hence, and require no strangers.' + +"`Lead me to your chief, then, and I will hear what he has to say,' I +replied, in a confident voice. + +"`He is here,' said a man, stepping out from among the tents. `Tell me +what you require.' + +"There was nothing in the appearance of the man to distinguish him as +the chief, except that his voice was particularly clear and firm, and +there was an air of authority in his manner, as if he was accustomed to +command. + +"`You are known to be kind to the persecuted and to the friendless, and +I am one of those coming to seek your assistance.' + +"`You shall have what you require, my friend, if it is in my power to +give it you,' he replied; `but come in here, and let me know more +particularly what it is you require.' + +"He took me by the hand, and led me in front of a tent, where he made me +sit down on a bale, which had just been prepared for loading a horse. + +"`We have met before, father,' said I, as soon as I saw his features +more distinctly by the bright light of the fire. `It was some time ago, +though, yet you will remember the circumstance, I know. The first snows +of winter had just fallen, and a hard frost had set in, when one of your +children strayed into the woods. On, on she went, thinking she was +approaching your encampment, but was all the time getting farther from +it. The evening was setting in, when she saw three huge animals moving +towards her; they were wolves, ravenous with hunger. An armed man might +well have dreaded to encounter them alone. I was, happily, in the wood, +a houseless wanderer. I beheld the scene from the entrance of a rude +hut I had just constructed to shelter myself from the inclemency of the +weather. The sweet child stood petrified with terror--the savage beasts +approached her--my fowling-piece lay by my side--I levelled it, fired, +and brought the largest wolf to the ground. Then loading as I went, I +rushed forward with a loud shout, which made the animals stop to see +whence it came. This gave me time to load and to shoot another through +the head; the third took to flight, but I killed him also just as he was +disappearing among the trees. The little girl stood staring at me with +amazement, then burst into tears. I took her up in my arms, and wrapped +a sheepskin round her. She was a sweet little creature. Her features +and her dress told me the race to which she belonged. I had seen the +encampment in the morning; it was more than two versts away, but I was +strong and active, and I knew I could carry her as far. She rested +quietly in my arms, with all the beautiful confidence of childhood. I +took my gun with me, and went gaily on over the crisp ground. In less +than an hour I reached the encampment. There was joy and gratitude in +the hearts of those to whom I delivered her. They had been searching +for her in vain, and had already believed her a prey to wolves, which +much infested that region.' + +"`Ah, she was my own, my beautiful little Azeota,' exclaimed, the gipsy +chief, looking at me earnestly. `Every circumstance you relate was told +me then, I remember. But was it you did that brave act? Was it you who +saved my child? Pardon me that I did not know you; you are much changed +since then.' + +"`So I believe,' said I. `Toil and anxiety have done their work on my +features, I doubt not. I am glad of it in one respect, for though at +times it may prevent my friends recognising me, it will more effectually +guard me from being discovered by my enemies.' + +"`Ah, my dear friend, my son, my well-beloved, I know you now, though,' +exclaimed the gipsy, springing up, and throwing his arms round my neck, +while his countenance exhibited the deepest emotion. `Ah, my Azeota, my +sweet flower! I have lost her; death has taken her from me, but I am +not the less grateful to you for what you did for her, and I thank the +fates who have sent you once more to me that we may converse together of +her. But tell me, how is it that you come here to seek me?' + +"On this I told him such part of my history as I thought would afford +him interest, and informed him of my purpose of endeavouring to find +Aneouta, and of going on afterwards to Nishni and Moscow. + +"`I will think over the matter as we go along,' he replied; `we shall +soon be on the move; you will ride along with me. But stay, you have +had no food this morning, probably. Here, Kazan,' he cried, calling to +a lad who was passing; `bring some provisions here immediately for this, +my friend; your mother will give them to you--the best she has, tell +her. Then saddle my black mare, and bring her along with my horse; he +will ride her.' + +"I thanked the gipsy chief for his arrangements. Nothing could be more +opportune than the encounter. The tribe were proceeding in the very +direction I wished to go, and though I could have performed the distance +almost as quickly on foot, I should now be enabled to do it without +fatigue. I ate a hearty breakfast, and by the time it was finished, the +gipsy's mare was brought to me to mount. Accompanying the chief, I rode +on to the head of the caravan. As he passed along the line he issued +his orders in a tone which showed that he was accustomed to be obeyed, +and this increased my confidence that he would be enabled to assist me +effectually. There were nearly three hundred people, I calculated, +altogether; quite a little army. Some of the younger men and boys were +on foot, lightly clad, with sticks in their hands to drive the horses +and cattle; others were on horseback, while some of the very old men and +women and children were carried in the waggons, which were driven by +some of the men on foot. The story of my having preserved little Azeota +from the wolves had already got about, and as I rode by, I was saluted +with expressions of gratitude, which were very satisfactory. I felt +indeed thankful that I had again fallen among friends so well able to +help me. At the time to which I allude, I had remained many days in the +camp. I had conversed much with the gipsies on religious subjects, and, +alas! Had found their minds totally ignorant of the truth. Though +living in a land at least called Christian, they knew nothing of that +pure faith; they were almost destitute of any hope, any fear; this life +was all they thought of. The future, eternity, was totally beyond their +comprehension. They put their hands before their eyes as if to shut it +out when I spoke of it. Gradually I unfolded to them holy things; I +spoke to them of the Bible and its wonderful history, and by degrees +they listened and were interested. Finally, I believe that I made much +impression on the minds of many of them. Then I was once more obliged +to fly for my liberty. Still I often visited the Zingari whenever I had +an opportunity, and never was otherwise than kindly received by them. +But to return to my late adventure with them. + +"We had ridden some versts, and the gipsy chief had long been silent, +when he turned to me, and said:-- + +"`I have thought of a plan by which you may not only see your Aneouta, +but you may, if she will consent, carry her away from those who keep her +from you. You shall disguise yourself as a gipsy, and, accompanied by +one of the young women of the tribe, you will easily gain access to her, +under the pretence of telling fortunes. If you can persuade her to fly +from her persecutors, we will protect her. No one will suspect that you +have gone to the house for any other purpose than collecting a few +kopecks, or stealing chickens, perhaps; and who will think of searching +for her with us?' + +"I saw at once the advantages of the plan proposed by the Zingari chief, +and yet I trembled at the thought of leaving Aneouta so long among his +people; not that I doubted they would protect her to the utmost of their +power, but I feared she might suffer from the hardships to which she +would be inevitably exposed. Still I felt that I must wait to decide +till I had seen my betrothed. For five days we travelled on with far +greater ease than I had been accustomed to, so that at the end of the +time I was fresher and stronger than when I fell in with the encampment. + +"But I am wearying you, sirs, with my long history, and I am sure that +this kind gentleman, who has been interpreting for me, is completely out +of breath." + +Mr Allwick smiled as he said this. + +"Oh, no, no," exclaimed Cousin Giles, and the boys, and Mr Evergreen, +in a breath. "We are very much interested. Tell him to go on. We +would rather hear his adventures than see all the sights in the place." + +The stranger bowed, and continued his narrative. + + + +CHAPTER FIFTEEN. + + Disguised as a Zingari--Start on the Expedition--Minetta's + Fortune-telling--Communicative Serfs--A tyrant Land-steward--Outbreak + of Peasants--Dreadful Result--Old Scratchichna--Discovery of Aneouta-- + Their Flight--Stratagem of the Zingari Chief--Aneouta left in the + Gipsy Encampment--Reaches the Volga--Voyage to Nishni--Conclusion of + History--Cousin Giles promises to assist him. + +"The gipsy tents were pitched on a wild moor, surrounded by low, barren +hills, about three versts distant from the estate of young Barin Peoter +Petrovitch, the owner of my poor Aneouta. Although my features are not +at all of the gipsy cast, and any one examining them narrowly would at +once have seen that I was no Zingari, yet by dressing carefully in their +style, and by having my countenance doubly dyed, and my beard shaved +off, I certainly might hope to be taken for one by the casual passer-by. + +"The chief himself attended to the arrangement of my costume. He was a +widower, and childless, but he had a niece, the child of a brother, whom +he adopted. She was a clever, spirited girl, and gladly undertook to be +my companion; indeed Minetta--that was her name--fully entered into the +spirit of the undertaking. It was arranged, also, that a little lad, +her brother, should accompany us. I described Aneouta to them both, so +that they might know her at once should they meet her. My countenance +had been so altered by the dye and paint that I looked quite an old man, +and no one could possibly recognise me. Whatever may be the faults of +the Zingari, they may be safely trusted with the secrets committed to +their tribe; therefore, though every one in the encampment knew my +object, I had no fears of being betrayed. + +"Many a good wish was uttered as we three set off together on horseback. +The chief had furnished me with a strong, active steed, which would +carry Aneouta as well as me, should I be so fortunate as to be able to +bear her off unperceived. We rode on till we came to a copse, a quarter +of a verst or so from the house of the young Barin. + +"Minetta and I then dismounting, left the horses under charge of her +brother, and sauntering along in an unconcerned way, we approached the +house. I had agreed to feign to be dumb, lest the tone of my voice +should betray me. Thus I knew I should be perfectly safe from +detection, and even Aneouta would not know me. Our difficulty was to +learn where she could be found. Eagerly I cast my eyes about in every +direction, expecting to see her among the work-people in the fields, but +nowhere did she appear. Minetta had a good excuse to go among them, to +offer to tell the girls their fortunes. They were not unaccustomed to +such visits, apparently, for they smiled and laughed as she talked to +them, and willingly held out their hands that she might read their fate +by the marks on their palms. She cleverly adapted her promises +according to the age and appearance of each, and seemed to give +universal satisfaction. After she had gained their confidence, she +began to put questions to them, to which they seemed fully willing to +reply. First she spoke to one; then to another a little way off; and +what the first told her she made use of with surprising facility, as if +she had been long informed of it, to draw information from the second. +I listened with painful eagerness to all that was said to her, but for a +long time she could elicit nothing which could give me information about +Aneouta. At length she got nearer to the subject. + +"`Surely all the girls of the estate are not in the fields to-day?' she +said. `Not long ago I heard weeping and moaning, as from one in pain or +grief. The sounds came a long, long way through the air, even to where +I then was standing, many versts away from this.' + +"The girls looked at each other. + +"`Yes, you are right,' said one. `It was a maiden who had gone away +from this when a child, and thought herself free, but she was mistaken; +and the Barin, our lord, is fond of keeping all his people about him, so +when he found it out, he had her brought back. Poor thing, she was very +unhappy, for she was taken from all her friends; but she will be better +by and by. She will marry one of our young men, and then she will make +new friends, and be reconciled to her fate.' + +"`Ah, let any one beware who marries her,' exclaimed Minetta, promptly. +`I have read his destiny in the stars. He will speedily die. Let him +beware, I say.' + +"The girls looked at each other with horror, resolved to warn all the +young men in the village of the fate they might expect if they wished to +marry the new-comer. + +"`Then she has not yet been sent out into the fields to labour?' she +continued. `I thought not.' + +"`Oh, no, she is still in the overseer's house,' answered one of the +girls; `she has plenty of work there, for he is a hard man, and not +likely to excuse her because she is weak or ill. For my part, I would +rather be in the fields, where at least we have freedom to talk, and +laugh, and sing as much and as loud as we please, at least as long as +the land-steward keeps away from us. When he comes all are dumb and +grave. If we talk, he thinks we are plotting mischief; if we laugh, he +fancies we are laughing at him. He is miserable himself, and he wants +to make everybody miserable also.' + +"`Why is that?' asked Minetta. `He is well-to-do in the world--a good +house, and plenty to eat and drink.' + +"`Ah, but he is always in terror of his life,' answered the girl. +`Before he came here he was steward of an estate owned by a Barin and +his wife, who were the most grinding couple in all the country round. +They starved their house serfs, and ground every moment of work out of +the peasants that the law would allow. No other man but Gavrillo, our +land-steward, would have lived with such people, I verily believe. The +mujicks bore it for many years, not without complaining and grumbling, +but without trying to right themselves. At last they could bear it no +longer. A bad season came, and they were starving, and when they +complained, they were only ground more and more; so they rose up with +arms in their hands, and attacked the Barin's house one morning, just +before daylight, and the Barin put his head out of the window, and they +shot him, and he fell down into the road; and when his wife looked out +to see what had become of her lord, they shot her too. When they were +certain that they were both dead they went off to the house of Gavrillo, +intending to shoot him also. He, however, hearing the shots, guessed +that something wrong was happening, and, mounting his horse, galloped +away as hard as he could go. The mujicks saw him, and followed. They +thirsted for his blood; and as they well knew that no mercy would be +shown them, they were determined to have it. They followed him across +fields, and there they kept up with him. Then he reached a plain, a +wild heath, and he distanced them, but at the other side of the heath +was a wood--he must either skirt it or go through it. Fear drove him +through it, and they rapidly gained on him again. They now were almost +sure that they should catch him, but as they got to the farther edge of +the wood they saw him tearing along, his horse all foam, and his clothes +in shreds, and his hat knocked off, a quarter of a verst or less before +them. Shots were fired at him, but the bullets missed. A broad and +rapid river was before him. They thought that they should now certainly +overtake him, and already they fancied their revenge secure, when he +reached the bank. He hesitated not a moment. He heard the infuriated +mujicks behind him--their cries of rage and fierce threats--and saw the +broad rapid stream before him. Death from behind was certain. The +water might float him--he urged in his horse--the animal was strong and +fearless. Bravely it swam on, encouraged by its master's voice. Shot +after shot was fired at him--still he held on. He was mounting the one +bank when his pursuers reached the other, uttering cries of disappointed +hate. He shook his clenched fist at them, and galloped on. He did not +stop nor think himself safe till he had reached the nearest town. He +there gave notice of what had occurred, and the governor sent off for +troops to punish the rebels. The mujicks, meantime, with shouts of +vengeance, went back to his house. His wife and children were within, +and a hoard of his ill-gotten gold. They could not fly. He had had no +time to secure his gold. The mujicks surrounded the dwelling, and +closed the doors that no one might escape. There was a shout for +faggots, dried branches, logs of wood. They were brought, they were +piled up round the house, and a fire was kindled on every side. It +blazed up fiercely. It crackled, and hissed, and roared. There was a +strong wind: the cries of the inmates were overcome. Soon the smoke +stifled them; and Gavrillo, when he returned with the troops many days +afterwards, found nothing but a heap of ashes where his house had been. +The mujicks then burnt down the house of their lord and emptied his +granaries, and then dispersed in every direction. Not an inhabitant was +left in the place. Even the old men and the women and children were +carried off. Some of the latter, alas! Were soon captured and cruelly +treated, but many of the men escaped to the distant steppe, and there, +banding themselves together, robbed and plundered all they could venture +to attack. That is the reason that Gavrillo is so melancholy and +morose,' said the girl. + +"`Enough to make him so,' answered Minetta. `But has he not married +again? Who takes care of his house?' + +"`Oh, no, he has taken no second wife. I should pity the woman to whom +should fall such a fate. He has a blind and deaf old woman who takes +care of his house, and I suppose he thinks if his house was again burnt +there would be no great loss if she was burnt too. She is as sweet +tempered as he is. A pretty life poor Aneouta will have with her.' + +"`And Gavrillo himself, where is he?' asked Minetta. + +"`Oh, he is away from home just now--gone to see after the sale of some +timber; and the Barin is away on his road to Moscow, and won't be back +till after the grand doings at the coronation of the Czar, and that +makes us all so merry, you know.' + +"Minetta had now heard all she required--so had I. The Barin's absence +would enable me the better to carry off Aneouta; at the same time I +fancied that he might make out a good story to the Emperor, and persuade +him to disallow my petition when he found that I was interfering with +one whom he claimed as his serf. The Zingari chief, however, who knows +the world well, afterwards told me that I need have no fears on that +score, and that if the Czar grants my petition no one is likely to +interfere with me. Well, Minetta and I left the field highly satisfied +with the information we had obtained, and betook ourselves to Gavrillo's +house. The old woman, his housekeeper, sat in the porch knitting. The +girl we had spoken with had in no way done her injustice; a more +unattractive female was never seen. I groaned as I thought that my poor +Aneouta should have been committed to the charge of such a being. A +brown handkerchief was tied over her head: from beneath it escaped a few +straggling white hairs. The eyes in her parchment-like countenance were +scarcely perceptible, while her mouth was garnished with two yellow +bones, which did the duty of teeth; her feet were encased in straw +shoes, and her entire dress was of a dark hue, obtained by age and dirt. +There was not a spot of white about her. + +"`What do you want here?' she growled out, as she saw us approach. + +"`To tell your fortune, dear mother,' answered Minetta, in the blandest +voice. + +"`My fortune has been settled long ago, and a bad one it has been,' +answered the old woman. + +"`The moon changes, and fine weather comes at last,' replied the gipsy, +smiling. `Those who are wise never mourn the past, but look to the +future. See what wonderful things this age has produced! Steamers, and +railroads, and balloons--all you have heard of, I doubt not. Even now +the world is ringing with the latest and grandest discovery, made by our +people, too. Those only who come to us can benefit by it.' + +"`What is it, girl?' asked the old woman, with more animation than could +be expected. + +"`What is it? What you, perchance, would like to have, if you could +afford to pay for it,' answered Minetta archly. + +"`How do you know that I cannot afford to pay? Tell me what your +discovery is, and I will tell you whether I will pay for it,' croaked +out the old woman. + +"`Oh, no, no; you will not trust to it,' answered Minetta. `There are +others who will value the great secret more than you; I must keep it for +them. Farewell, mother;' and taking my hand, she began to move away. + +"`Stop, stop, girl; let me know what it is,' cried the old woman, her +curiosity fully excited. + +"Still Minetta went on. + +"`Stop, stop!' again croaked out the old woman. + +"The Zingari maiden pretended to relent, and stopped. + +"`Well, mother dear, perhaps you would like to try the effects of this +great discovery. Often has the attempt been made, but in vain, to give +back youth to age, to renovate the beauty which years and sickness have +destroyed. The secret has been obtained. A liquid, distilled from the +dew found on certain plants at early dawn, has that wondrous power. +Every day the effect is perceptible; the limbs become strong, the +muscles vigorous, the cheeks fill out, the roses return, the eyes grow +bright, the step elastic, the--' + +"`Oh, give me some of it!' shrieked the wretched hag, stretching out her +withered arms. `I'll try it!--I'll try it! What do you demand, girl?-- +say quickly!' + +"`Try it first, and as you prove its effects, then you shall reward me +accordingly,' said Minetta, producing a bottle with a colourless liquid +from under her cloak. She poured out some of the liquid on a sponge, +and held it to the mouth of the hag. In a few moments its effects were +indeed perceptible; her eyes closed, her arms hung down, and she was in +a state of stupor. + +"`What have you been about?' I exclaimed, afraid that some injury might +have been done the old woman. + +"`No harm whatever,' she answered, laughing. `Do you go in, and bring +out your Aneouta. I will watch here, and then the sooner we are away +the better.' + +"With a beating heart, I sprang into the house. There were but five or +six rooms. In the last I found a female, sitting with her hands crossed +on her knees, looking on vacancy. She started on hearing a person +enter, and gazed up at my countenance. I knew her by her figure; but, +alas! Grief and anxiety had sadly changed her features. Still she was +my Aneouta. Of that I was certain. Eagerly, inquiringly, she looked at +me. Her eyes ran over my gipsy costume, then she once more gazed into +my eyes, and springing up, threw herself into my arms. + +"`It is you--you, my Steffanoff!' she exclaimed, in a voice that went to +my heart. `Tell me not that it is any one else. It is you--it is you. +I know you through your disguise. The dark skin--the Zingari dress--the +white hair cannot deceive me. You have come to save me from this--to +take me away--to carry me to your home. Tell me that I do not dream. +Tell me that it is a reality I enjoy. Tell me that it is you yourself I +hold in my arms!' + +"`Oh, my Aneouta, it is indeed your Steffanoff who has found you out-- +who has come to carry you from this place,' I exclaimed, pressing her to +my heart. `But there is no time to delay--I will tell you all by and +by. We must be away at once, or we may be pursued.' + +"`Yes, yes, I come. Take me with you at once, my beloved,' she cried, +pressing closer to me. `But ah!--old Scratchichna, where is she? She +will give the alarm, and clutch us with her claws, till some one comes +to stop us!' + +"`Fear not about her,' I answered, as I led her out of the room and into +the porch. `See, she will not stop us.' + +"The old woman was sitting as I had left her, perfectly unconscious. +Certainly she did not appear as if her youth was returning; she looked +far more as if death had overtaken her. Minetta stood over her, and as +we were going, applied the sponge once more to her nostrils. + +"`She is not dying, I trust?' said I. + +"`Oh, no, no!' answered Minetta, laughing. `She will come very soon to +herself, and then sit quiet, indulging in the fancy that she is growing +young again, forgetting all about her charge and us. When she finds +that this bird has flown, she will give such a confused account of the +matter, that no one will know what has occurred. Good-bye, old mother-- +you do look very young, certainly!' Minetta laughed in a peculiar +self-satisfied way as she said this. + +"Minetta having thrown her own cloak over Aneouta, which much assisted +in disguising her, we hurried towards the copse where we had left the +horses. Anxiously we looked around on every side to notice if any one +was watching us, but the peasants were in the fields, and we carefully +avoided the high road and the main street of the village. We found the +lad with the horses all safe--no one had come near him. Things may be +done in a thinly-peopled country which could not occur in the denser +population of a town. Taking up Aneouta on the horse before me, away we +galloped--my heart lighter than it had been for many a year. Still I +knew that the time might be far distant when I might hope to live with +her in peace and security. + +"We were cordially welcomed by the Zingari chief and his people, who +seemed to take an especial interest in the achievement we had +accomplished. Its success was, I confess, entirely owing to the tact +and adroitness of Minetta. The means she took were, however, not such +as in my calmer moments I could in my conscience approve of. + +"The Zingari chief received Aneouta as a daughter. `You shall eat of my +bread and dwell in my tent, and occupy the place of one who is lost to +me, till your betrothed comes to claim you,' said he, taking her hand. +`Minetta will be your companion, and she will tell you many things to +make the hours pass lightly away.' + +"Soon after we reached the encampment the orders were given to strike +the tents, that we might remove to some distance before nightfall. Of +course we knew that directly Gavrillo, the steward, returned, he would +make every effort to discover what had become of Aneouta. The chief had +placed her carefully in a covered waggon, when he asked her for her +mantle and the handkerchief she had worn over her head. He took them, +and rolling them up, gave them to the young lad who had been with us. I +asked him as we rode along why he had done this. + +"`The river which passes near the village is deep and rapid; I have told +him to go there as soon as it is dark, and throw them on the bank. +Their being found there will effectually mislead the steward, who will +believe that Aneouta has drowned herself, and will make no further +search for her.' + +"In the hopes that this stratagem would succeed, my mind was relieved of +a very great anxiety; for I was certain that if it was known that +Aneouta had taken refuge among the gipsies, and she was demanded from +them, they would not venture to retain her. I expressed my fears to the +chief. + +"`We will see to that,' he answered, laughing confidently. `They cannot +prove that she is among us, and they may come and search through every +tent, and not discover her if she desires to remain concealed.' + +"`How can that be?' I asked. + +"`By disguising her, so that she will become like one of ourselves,' he +answered. + +"`You could not disguise me,' I answered; `she knew me at once.' + +"`Ah, the eyes of love pierce deeper than any other eyes,' he answered; +`besides, Aneouta's features are much of the Zingari cast, and her eyes +are dark like ours. Depend on it, we will disguise her so that no one +will know her. If any come to look for her, we will tell them to come +and search, and take her if they can find her. Depend on it they will +fix on the wrong person rather than on her.' + +"The perfect confidence of the Zingari chief very much assured me, if it +did not do so completely. When we encamped at night, I gave Aneouta a +rapid account of all that I had gone through, and all I proposed doing. +The watch-fire, by which we sat, had almost burnt out before we had +ceased talking, and I had not then told her half I had to say. When I +informed her that my great object, the sacred duty I had imposed on +myself, was to try and rescue my parents from the cruel fate to which +they were condemned, she at first eagerly besought me to let her +accompany me, and endeavour to aid in the object. However, this I soon +showed her would be impossible, and she then willingly consented to +remain with the Zingari till I had accomplished it or found the effort +hopeless. + +"`If you fail entirely, my beloved, then we will fly together to the far +east,' exclaimed Aneouta warmly; `for rather would I live among the wild +tribes of the Tartars in their rude tents than exposed to the fate from +which you have rescued me in this country.' + +"I applauded her resolution--the same thought had been running in my own +mind. To escape, however, from the confines of Russia is a work not +easy of accomplishment. I will not detain you longer with an account of +our progress towards the Volga. We were not pursued, and we had reason +to fancy even that the Zingari were not suspected of carrying off +Aneouta. Probably the chief's trick succeeded, and she was supposed, in +a fit of despair, to have thrown herself into the river. At last the +time came that I must part from Aneouta. Sad as it may seem, I with +more confidence left her under charge of those wild, untutored children +of the desert, than I would with many who profess the tenets of +Christianity. I neither exacted nor received any oaths from the chief +and his people. + +"`Your betrothed will be safe, as far as we have power to protect her, +while she remains under our tents; and I hope, my brother and my friend, +when you return, to deliver her to you with renewed strength and +spirits,' he said, taking my hand. + +"All the tribe assembled to wish me farewell. I will not describe my +parting with Aneouta. Our mutual grief can better be imagined. While +journeying with the Zingari, I had retained their dress. I had now +again taken the stains from my face, and habited myself as a mujick. I +stood at length on the banks of the mighty Volga among a crowd of +travellers, waiting for the appearance of a steamer which was to touch +at that village. I had been travelling lately with so much ease and +freedom from care, that I forgot my present position. I was again in +danger. I might be asked for my pass. Not having one to show, I might +be stopped, and sent to prison. I had fastened my money about my body, +but I kept a few roubles ready at hand in case of necessity. There is +nothing like a bribe in Russia to alter a person's vision--black is made +white, and white black. I had never before seen a steamer. I was +struck with amazement when I beheld the astonishing sight. On it came, +gliding over the surface of the river, like a huge swan, without +apparent effort. When it drew nearer I saw that it had huge wheels +driving it along. I could scarcely contain my admiration; yet it would +not do to exhibit it, lest I should appear a novice in the world. When +the vessel stopped, people rushed on board; I followed them. They were +all too busy about their own affairs to think of me. I passed on with a +number of mujicks into the fore part of the vessel, where we stood +huddled together like a flock of sheep in a pen. Everybody was talking, +or laughing, or making a noise of some sort. Several had swallowed more +vodka than their heads could stand, and were still more vociferous; but +the confusion added to my security. I talked away as fast as anybody +else, and tried to learn who people were, and struck up acquaintances +with them, and I was so busy in asking them questions, that no one +thought of asking me any. For several days we steamed on, living, and +eating, and sleeping on deck; but the weather was fine, and it mattered +not. I always have been happy in making friends wherever I have been, +and on this occasion I fell in with a merchant, whom, from his remarks, +I recognised as one of the Molokani. Although he took me by my dress +only for a humble mujick, he had at first addressed me kindly, and I +soon got into intimate conversation with him. He invited me to attend +on him at Nishni, where I might assist him in selling his goods. He +told me, also, that he thought he could succeed in procuring me a pass, +which would enable me to proceed on to Moscow. He had been often to +Nishni, also more than once to Moscow and Saint Petersburg, and through +many other parts of Russia. As he knew somewhat of the world, +therefore, his advice was of much value. By degrees I learned to place +confidence in him, and told him part of my history. He much applauded +my plan of petitioning the Emperor, but he advised me, if possible, to +gain the friendship of some Englishmen who were going to Moscow, and +would allow me to accompany them. In that way the pass he could procure +me would be unquestioned, and they would afterwards probably assist me +in gaining access to the Emperor. He, too, would undoubtedly be willing +to appear magnanimous in the sight of foreigners, and be more ready to +grant my request. + +"There, gentlemen, I have told you my history; far more of it, I own, +than I at first purposed. My object in so doing, you have, I doubt not, +divined. I earnestly beseech you to allow me to accompany you to +Moscow, to remain with you while you are there, and to assist me in +getting access to the Emperor. Every word I have told you is true. You +will run none of the risks of offending against the laws of the country +which Russians in your position might do, while you will be conferring a +great blessing, not only on me, but on my aged parents, and on my +betrothed, and you may be the means of bringing, happiness to a whole +family." + +"Tell him that we are all deeply interested in his history, and that we +believe it to be perfectly true," said Cousin Giles, as soon as Mr +Allwick had ceased translating; "but that I do not see how we can assist +him, as he proposes, while I certainly cannot suppose that we can in any +way enable him to get access to the Emperor." + +"I hope that you will allow me to plead for him myself," returned Mr +Allwick. "I knew his parents. I have been to their village, and he +himself is not a stranger to me. He recognised me this morning in the +crowd, and that induced him to pay us this visit. The truth is, I have +seen much of the Molokani. A more inoffensive, earnest, religious +people do not exist. When travelling in the south of Russia with a +gentleman, to whom I was attached as secretary, we have had thirty of +them dining with us at once, and, though peasants of the humblest class, +they have invariably behaved like gentlemen. Their Christianity has +taught them not only to be kind and courteous to each other, but to put +aside all dirty habits and customs, and I am certain that no persons in +the most polished society would have acted in a more refined manner than +they did." + +"If that is the case, and you are willing to be responsible for your +friend, I, for my part, shall be happy to run any risk which may arise +from our connection with him, and will most gladly give him every +assistance in my power. He is a fine fellow, of whom any nation might +be proud. Tell him that we wish him every success, and will help him as +far as we can. What say you, Mr Evergreen; do you agree with me?" +asked Cousin Giles. + +"Oh, certainly, certainly," answered Mr Evergreen, with his usual bland +smile, "whatever you think right I think right also; so, Mr Allwick, +tell him from me, that I will give him a helping hand whenever I can; +and if we can get back his old father and mother from Siberia, or rather +from their way there, we will see what can be done for them." + +The stranger, as soon as Mr Allwick had told him what had been said, +warmly pressed the hands of the Englishmen, and placed them on his +heart, to show the depth of his gratitude. Mr Allwick assured them +that he was sure they were acting generously and rightly in thus +affording the stranger their protection. So it was arranged that he was +to return in the morning in his mujick costume, and be regularly engaged +publicly to act as their servant. + +They proposed remaining another day in Nishni, and then making a tour +through the country, before returning to Moscow for the coronation. + + + +CHAPTER SIXTEEN. + + Cousin Giles meets an old Friend--Excursion into the Interior--Fine + View on the Volga--Scenes on the Road--The Count's Estate--Welcomed + with Bread and Salt--The Count's old-fashioned Mansion--A Fishing + Excursion--Winter in Russia--Russian Stoves--Modes of keeping out + Cold--Mode of Dressing in Winter--Result of a Snowless Winter. + +"I know that man, I am certain," exclaimed Cousin Giles, as the +travellers were on their way from their hotel to the busy part of the +fair. Just before them was a tall, gentlemanly-looking man, dressed in +a shooting-jacket, with a stout stick in his hand, and walking along +with that free and independent air which generally distinguishes a +seaman. "Hallo, old ship! Where are you bound to? Heave-to till I can +come up with you, will you?" sung out Cousin Giles, in a loud, jovial +voice, which instantly made the person who has been described turn his +head. His countenance brightened as he did so, and with extended hands +he came back, and heartily shook those of our friend. + +"Well, Fairman, I am delighted to see you," he exclaimed heartily, "I am +indeed; but what has brought you to this part of the world?" + +"The love of travel, and the pleasure of showing a small portion of the +globe we inhabit to these young lads," answered Cousin Giles. "But I +assure you, Ivanovitch, I am equally delighted to meet you, though I +should little have expected to find you acting the part of a country +gentleman when last we parted on the deck of the _Asia_." + +"I have been through a good deal since then, but we will talk of that +another time," answered the Russian in English, without the slightest +foreign accent. "Well, we have met most opportunely. I stopped a day +at this place to see the humours of the fair, on my way to take +possession of an estate which has lately been left me, and if I can +induce you to accompany me, it will indeed be a satisfaction." + +"The very thing I should like; and as I know you are sincere, I will +accept your invitation; but I have several companions, and I fear we +shall crowd you," said Cousin Giles. + +The Russian laughed heartily. + +"A dozen people, more or less, makes no difference in on? Of our +houses," he answered; "I shall be delighted to see them, and any more +you may like to ask." + +"My present party, with a servant we engaged yesterday, are all I will +bring," said Cousin Giles. "When are we to set off?" + +"To-morrow morning, at daybreak, to enjoy as much cool air as can be +obtained. We shall get there in two days without fatigue." + +So it was all arranged. Nothing could be more pleasant or convenient. +The travellers would thus see country life in Russia to great advantage, +and be able to get back to Moscow in time for the coronation. + +Alexis Ivanovitch, Cousin Giles' old friend, had been educated in +England, and afterwards served for several years on board a British +man-of-war, for the purpose of learning seamanship and navigation. +Several Russians have been allowed by the British Government to study on +board their ships; and they have, with perfect impartiality, allowed +Turks, in the same way, to learn the art of naval warfare. It was while +serving together afloat that Cousin Giles and Alexis Ivanovitch, now a +Count, had formed their friendship. + +Towards evening of the second day the carriages of the travellers +reached a village standing on a height overlooking that father of +European rivers, the Volga. The scene was a lovely one. The cloudless +sky had a faint pinkish tint, while a rich mellow glow was cast over the +landscape. Far in the east, across the river, were boundless steppes, +their verdant hue depending entirely on the dews of heaven, there not +being a well or water-spring throughout their whole extent. To make +amends for the want, Nature has planted on them the juicy water-melon, +which those only who have luxuriated on it, in a hot country, can +appreciate. Here and there might be seen the camp-fires of troops of +Cossacks, bivouacking for the night, or of herdsmen preparing to watch +their cattle, or of haymakers, who go out there to prepare fodder for +the winter food of their beasts; while in the west the eye wandered over +ranges of hills, cultivated fields, and populous villages, with their +grey wooden houses peeping out from among the trees. + +The village before them contained several neat houses; the gable-ends of +all, formed of wood, and often tastefully decorated with carved work, +being turned towards the road. + +On the river below them, gangs of bargemen, or _boorlaks_, were towing +against the sluggish stream vast barges deeply laden with corn; the +voices of the men, modulated by distance, rising in a pleasing chorus. +Others, again, were dragging along immense rafts of timber, cut from far +distant forests, destined to construct navies in widely scattered lands; +while craft of all sorts were steering their course up the stream, laden +with produce for the extensive market then taking place. No sooner had +the carriages stopped than a troop of villagers were seen approaching +along the street, some with garlands, others with banners, those leading +bearing in their hands large dishes. In one dish was a large black +loaf, in another a pile of salt, on a third a jug of water. The men had +flowing beards of patriarchal length and thickness, and were habited in +long sheepskin garments, which gave them a comfortable, substantial +look. They all bowed low as they approached the Count, but he entreated +them in a kind voice to rise and stand upright before him. + +"We come, most noble _Goshod_, to offer you the congratulations of our +village on your coming among us for the first time, and we beg to +present you such poor food as we can supply, according to the ancient +custom of our country," said the chief man of the party. + +The Count having thanked them in a few kind words, cut some of the brown +bread, which he dipped in the salt, and then drank a draught of the +water, which was of delicious coolness. It was drawn, they told him, +from a well celebrated for its purity, and which, even in the height of +summer, had always ice on the shaft. This ceremony over, the Count and +his friends drove on to his mansion, about a verst farther within the +estate. A long avenue of lime-trees conducted them up to the house, +which was of considerable size, and surrounded by all descriptions of +out-houses, in anything but a flourishing condition. The mansion was +built partly of brick and partly of wood, with verandahs and galleries, +and steps running round outside it, and odd little projections, and bits +of roofs apparently covering nothing, and for no other object than to +serve as ornaments. The land-steward came down the steps, making many +low bows, and followed by a troop of servants in faded blue liveries, +all of them endeavouring to imitate his movements with very ridiculous +ill success. The Count could scarcely restrain his laughter. + +"I shall have plenty of work here to get things shipshape," said he, +turning to Cousin Giles. "My uncle, from whom I inherited this +property, was a noble of the old school. State with him was of the +greatest importance. He loved to make a show--not that he really cared +about it himself, or had any large amount of vanity, but that he +considered it necessary to maintain the dignity of his order. Thus he +kept up this useless troop of lazy varlets in faded liveries, when a +good house-steward and two active footmen would have served him much +better. I shall turn some of those fellows to the right-about very +soon, and try to employ them in productive labour." + +While the Count was talking they entered the house. Everything within +betokened the old-fashioned taste of the former owner. Large sofas, +numberless card-tables, high-backed chairs, huge, badly gilt +picture-frames, enclosing daubs of most incomprehensible subjects, +mirrors of all shapes and sizes, not one condescending to give a correct +reflection of the human face. There was a large hall with a table down +the centre, on which an ample meal was spread. At the upper end was a +profusion of silver and glass, and two huge salt-cellars. Below the +salt-cellars were plates and knives and forks of a far more humble +description. The house-steward came forward with many a bow, and +inquired when his lord would condescend to dine. "As soon as dinner can +be ready," was the answer; "but come, gentlemen, we will go up to our +rooms and shake off the dust of our journey." + +The guests were shown by the house-steward to their bedrooms. They were +very humbly furnished. All the grandeur had evidently been reserved for +the public apartments. They came down to the dining-hall, when the +Count took his seat at the head of the board, and his guests arranged +themselves on either side. A number of other persons then came in, +retainers of some sort,--persons of an inferior order, at all events: +among them was a man in a long green gown, yellow boots, a dark vest, +and light hair straggling over his shoulders. He bowed low, as did the +others, to the Barin, the lord, and took his seat humbly below the salt. + +They all ate with the gravity of judges about to condemn a fellow-mortal +to death. + +"I am glad that you have had an opportunity of seeing how Russians of +the old school lived," observed the Count, turning to Cousin Giles. "I +could not endure this sort of thing long, but it would not be wise to +make too sudden changes. I shall in future only dine in state on great +occasions, when it is politic to exhibit myself in public. We cannot +all of a sudden introduce the freedom of the English. Ah! You should +indeed value your institutions, both public and domestic." + +The Count was busy all the next morning in seeing his overseers, and +receiving deputations from the inhabitants of the various villages on +his estate, who came to welcome him, and bring the accustomed offering +of bread and salt. He arranged, however, ample amusement for his guests +during the day, by supplying them with horses to ride, and boats on a +lake a couple of versts away from the house, where they caught a large +supply of fish in a very short time. In the afternoon several visitors, +who had been invited to meet them, arrived. They were proprietors, +large and small, of estates ten, twenty, and thirty versts away. The +Count's own estate extended thirty versts in one direction, so that he +had not many near neighbours. Some of these gentlemen spoke English +fluently, and had seen the world. Fred and Harry were delighted with +them, and so especially was Mr Evergreen, they were so polite and +polished, and so full of information. Mr Evergreen declared that he +should be proud to be a Russian, to be like them. + +"Ah, my dear sirs, you should see Russia during the winter," exclaimed +Baron Shakertoskey. "It is then we are most full of life and vivacity. +Then nature kindly forms us roads, over which we are borne, gliding +smoothly, at a rapid pace by quick-footed steeds; bridges are thrown +across streams, by means which far surpass the art of man; and fresh +fish, and flesh, and fowl are brought to market in the forms which they +held when alive. Fish stand up on their tails, as if about to leap out +of the baskets where they are placed. Sheep, oxen, and calves, rabbits +and hares, look as if they could still run about, and fowls rear up +their heads as if still denizens of the poultry-yard. A true Russian +winter is only to be found at Moscow or in the interior. At Saint +Petersburg, owing to the neighbourhood of the Baltic, the wind which +blows over it frequently produces a thaw or a partial thaw, even in the +middle of winter. Thus, as the wind shifts, so does the temperature +rise and fall. With a west wind comes rain, and with a north-east a +bitter cold; other winds bring fogs, and some, cheerful, bright frosty +days, so that the inhabitants of that great city are liable to wind and +rain in January, and frost and snow in April. Still the thermometer of +Fahrenheit often falls to 55 degrees below zero, which it seldom reaches +in Moscow. As in summer it often rises to 99 degrees, we may calculate +a range of temperature of 150 degrees. This is a difference of +temperature which would dreadfully try the constitution, did not people +take very great precautions against it by the mode in which they warm +their houses and clothe themselves. In Moscow, when the winter begins, +it commences to freeze in right earnest, and does not leave off at the +beck of any wind which may blow. We consider it to begin in October, +and to end in May--a period of six months--long enough to please the +greatest admirer of ice and snow. We then, once for all, don our fur +cloaks, caps, and boots, without which we never show our noses out of +doors till the beginning of spring. We then also light our stoves and +paste up our windows. You have seen a Russian stove? It is worth +examination. It is a vast mass of stone, which, though it takes a long +time to warm, will keep warm for a much longer period without any +additional fuel. The interior is like an oven, with a chimney, a long +snake-like passage leading to it. As long as the wood continues to +blaze the chimney is kept open, but as soon as it is reduced to ashes, +the passage to it is closed, and the hot air is allowed to pass by +numerous channels into the room. Sometimes the outer air is allowed to +pass through pipes over hot plates in the stove, and in this way fresh +air, properly charged with oxygen, is supplied to the inhabitants. In +large houses the mouth of the stove is in an outer passage or in an +ante-room, while the front is a mere mass of china, or concealed +altogether by looking-glasses or other furniture. One or more servants +in large houses have the entire charge of the stoves. They fill them +with wood the last thing at night, and light them some hours before the +family rise in the morning. In the sleeping-rooms they are kept in all +night. In the houses of the poor, one stove of huge proportions serves +for every purpose. It serves not only to heat the hut, but to bake +their bread, and for all sorts of cookery, and to dry their clothes, +articles of which are generally seen hung up round it. Benches are +placed before it, where the inmates sit to warm themselves, while on a +platform above it are placed beds, where, wrapped up in sheepskins, they +indulge in idleness and heat--the greatest luxuries they are able to +enjoy. To all our houses we have double windows: we paste paper over +every crevice by which air may enter, and we fill up the lower part of +the interval between the two windows with sand, into which we stick +artificial flowers, to remind us that summer, with its varied-tinted +beauties, will once again return. Two or three doors also must +generally be passed before the inside of the house is reached. Thus, +you see, in spite of the bitter cold in the outer world, we contrive to +construct an inner one where we can make ourselves tolerably +comfortable. We never venture out without being well wrapped up in +furs, and then we move from house to house as fast as we can, so as to +avoid being exposed any length of time to the cold. We have also large +fires lighted in front of the places of amusement and the palaces of the +Emperor and nobility, where the drivers and servants may warm themselves +while waiting for their masters. Generally with great cold there is +little wind; and people, as long as they are warmly clad and in motion, +have no reason to fear its effects, but unhappy is the wretch who is +overtaken by sleep while exposed to it. His death is certain. Death +thus produced is said to be accompanied by no disagreeable sensations, +at least so say those who have been partially frozen and recovered, but +I would rather not try the experiment. When the thermometer falls to 50 +or 55 degrees below zero, it is time to be cautious. No one shows his +nose out of doors unless compelled by urgent necessity, and when he +does, he moves along as fast as he can--keeping a watchful look-out +after that prominent and important feature of the human countenance. As +no unusual sensation accompanies the first attack of frost on the nose, +it is difficult to guard against it. A warning is, however, given by +the peculiar white hue which it assumes, and immediately this sign is +observed by a passer-by, he gives notice to the person attacked. `Oh, +father! Father! Thy nose, thy nose!' he will cry, rushing up to him +with a handful of snow, with which he will rub the feature attacked, if, +on a nearer inspection, he sees that it is in danger. Of course people +generally take the best possible care of their noses, so that the +dreaded catastrophe does not often occur. We wrap up warmly, and leave +only the eyes and mouth and nose exposed, so that nearly all the heat +which escapes from the body has to pass through that channel, and thus +effectually keeps it warm. + +"We Russians are not so fond of violent exercise as are you English, and +therefore we depend on the heat of our stoves and the thickness of our +clothing to keep ourselves warm. We sometimes forget that our servants +are not so substantially clad as ourselves, and while we are +entertaining ourselves in-doors, they, foolish fellows, fall asleep, and +get frozen to death outside the palace or theatre, or wherever we may +happen to be. Every year, also, people lose their lives by getting +drunk and falling asleep out of doors. They may try the experiment +several times, but some night the thermometer sinks to zero, and they +never wake again. In summer, travelling is all very well, but in winter +it is enjoyable; no dust, no dirt, no scorching heat. Well covered up +with warm skins, and with fur boots on our feet, away we glide, dragged +rapidly on by our prancing steeds over the hard snow, fleet almost as +the bird on the wing, and like the bird directly across the country, +where in summer no road can be found. Mighty streams also are bridged +over, and we journey along the bed of water-courses; which in spring are +swept by foaming torrents. The thick mantle of ice and snow which +clothes our country forms a superb highway, which the inhabitants of +other lands may in vain desire. The snow, which seems so cold and +inhospitable to the stranger, is our greatest and most valued friend. +It is like a fur cloak; it keeps in the warmth generated in the bosom of +the earth, and shelters the bulbs and roots and seeds from the biting +cold, which would otherwise destroy them. More than anything else we +have to dread a snowless winter; then truly the earth is shut up by an +iron grasp, and tall trees, and shrubs, and plants wither and die under +its malign influence. The earth, deprived of its usual covering, the +ruthless cold deeply penetrates it, and man and beast and creeping +things suffer from its effects. Oh, yes, we have reason to pray +earnestly to be delivered from a snowless winter?" + + + +CHAPTER SEVENTEEN. + + Sports in Winter--Bear and Wolf Hunting--Story of the Miller and the + Wolves--Other Tales about Wolves--Shooting Wolves from Sledges--Narrow + Escape from a Wolf--Breaking up of the Ice on the Volga--Dreadful + Sight of a Boat's Crew carried away with the Ice--Loss of an old Man + on the Ice--The Russian Bath--Trial of Vocal Powers of Two Musicians. + +"But have you no sports in the winter season?" asked Fred. "I thought +that the country abounded in bears and wolves, and deer and game of all +sorts. They are the sort of animals I should like to look after." + +"We have an abundance of bears and wolves, and of smaller animals too, +but we are not very fond of leaving our comfortable homes to shoot them. +Sometimes, when a bear becomes troublesome in a neighbourhood by his +depredations, the villagers turn out in a body to destroy him; and +wolves are the enemies of all. In winter, when hard pressed by hunger, +a flock of these are very dangerous, and numberless persons have fallen +victims to their voracity. A dreadful circumstance relating to wolves +occurred near this a few winters ago. + +"A miller, Nicholas Eremeitch by name, was, with his wife and children, +returning from the neighbouring town to his own village, a distance of +some twenty versts or so. He and his wife sat in the front part of the +sledge; their children, well covered with skins, were behind, except +one, which was in its mother's arms, another at their feet. Their road +lay partly through a forest, and partly across an open plain, now +exhibiting one unbroken sheet of snow. The children were laughing +cheerily, for though the frost was excessive, there was no wind, and the +cold was scarcely felt. They had accomplished more than half their +distance at a good rate. + +"Nicholas Eremeitch was well-to-do in the world, and he had a pair of +good horses, which knew how to go over the ground. A common peasant +would have driven but one, but he required them for his trade. He and +his wife were conversing together on what they had seen in the town, +when they were startled by a sharp yelp at no great distance off. + +"`Is that a dog who has lost his master?' asked the miller's wife. + +"`No, wife, no,' answered the miller. `Heaven protect us!' + +"As he spoke there was a rushing sound heard from far off in the forest. +At first it was very faint; then it grew louder and louder. Their +sagacious steeds knew too well what caused the sound, and, snorting with +fear, they started off at full gallop. There was no necessity for +Nicholas to urge them on. He, also, too well knew the cause of the +sound. Anxiously he looked over his shoulder. Another yelp was heard, +louder and sharper than before. They were just entering on the plain. +Another and another yelp rang in their ears, and at the same moment a +pack of wolves, in a dense mass, were seen emerging from the forest. +The affrighted steeds tore on. It was with difficulty the miller could +keep them together. His wife clasped her infant closer to her bosom. +The children looked from under their fur covering, and then shrunk down +again shivering with fear, for they had an instinctive dread of the +danger which threatened them. The stout miller, who scarcely before had +ever known what fear was, turned pale, as the sharp, eager yelps of the +infernal pack sounded nearer and nearer behind him. He had no weapons +but his long whip and a thick stick. He clenched his teeth, and his +breath came fast and thick, as the danger grew more imminent. With +voice, and rein, and whip, he urged on his steeds, yet they wanted, as I +said, no inducement to proceed. They felt the danger as well as their +master. The miller's wife sat still, an icy coldness gathering round +her heart. All they had to trust to was speed. The nearest _isba_ +where they could hope for aid was yet a long way off; yet rapidly as +they dashed onward, the hungry pack were fleeter still. A miracle alone +could save them--from man they could expect no help. + +"`On!--on! My trusty steeds,' shouted the miller. `Courage, wife!-- +courage! We may distance them yet. Trust in the good saints; they may +preserve us. Oh that I had my gun in my hand, I would give an account +of some of these brutes!' + +"In vain, in vain the horses stretched their sinews to the utmost. Fast +though they flew through the air, the savage brutes were faster still. +The miller's shouts and cries seemed for a short time to keep the +animals at bay, but still they were gathering thickly around the sledge, +singling out its inmates for their prey. + +"The poor children shrieked with terror as they beheld the fiery eyes, +the open mouths, and hanging tongues of the fierce brutes close to the +sledge. They fancied that they could feel their hot breath on their +cheeks--the terrible fangs of the animals seemed every instant about to +seize them. Again and again they piteously shrieked out-- + +"`Oh, father!--oh, mother, mother! Save us!' + +"The miller frantically lashed and lashed, and shouted to his steeds, +till his voice almost failed him. They could go no faster. Already, +indeed, their strength began to flag. `If they fail me at this juncture +all will be lost,' thought the miller; `still I'll not give up hope.' + +"Again he lashed his horses, and then he lashed and lashed around him, +in the hopes of keeping off the infuriated animals, which now came +thronging up on either side. As yet they had not dared to seize the +horses; should they do so, all, he knew, would be lost. His wife, pale +as death, sat by his side. She could do nothing but cry for mercy. She +dared not look round, lest altogether she should lose her senses at the +sight she dreaded to see. She longs to draw her elder children to the +front of the sledge, but there is no room for them there; so, as before, +she sits still, clasping her infant to her bosom. On fly the horses. +The wolves pursue, growing bolder and bolder. There is a fearful +shriek. + +"`Oh, mother! Mother! Save--' + +"The cry is drowned by the sharp yelping of the wolves. On a sudden the +pack give up the chase. The miller looks round to learn the cause. His +eldest child--his favourite, Titiana, is no longer in her place. The +other children point with fearful gaze to the spot where the wolves are +circling round, snorting, and gnashing, and tearing, and leaping over +each other's shoulders. To rescue her is hopeless; to attempt it would +be the certain destruction of the rest. Flight, rapid and continuous, +offers the only prospect of safety. Faint, alas! Is that. On--on he +drives; but, oh horror!--once more the wolves are in hot pursuit. The +sledge is again soon overtaken. Fiercely the miller defends his +remaining children with loud shouts and lashings of his whip; but what +can a weapon such as that effect against a whole host of wild beasts? +Some of the fiercest leapt on the sledge. + +"`Oh, mercy, mercy!'--Another child--their darling boy, poor little +Peoter, is torn away. Can they rescue him? No, no; it is impossible. +They must drive on--on--on--for their own lives. Even if they drive +fast as the wind, will they preserve the rest? For a few short moments +the wolves stop to revel in their dreadful banquet. The miller lashes +on his steeds furiously as before. He is maddened with horror. On, on +he drives. The poor mother sits like a statue. All faculties are +benumbed. She has no power to shriek. Scarcely does she know what has +occurred. Again the wolves are in full chase. Two children remain +alive, but they are exposed to the cold; their sheepskin mantle has been +torn away. They are weeping piteously. With a frantic grasp the miller +drags one up between him and his wife; but, alas! The other he cannot +save. He tries, but ere he can grasp it by the shoulder, the savage +brutes have dragged it down among them. A faint shriek escapes it, and +its miseries are at an end. With whetted appetites the wolves again +follow the sledge. The miller looks at the savage pack now almost +surrounding him, and his courage begins to give way. But his wife is +still by his side, and three children are unhurt. He may yet keep the +wolves off; but if they once venture on the sledge, if once his arm is +seized, he knows that all, all he holds dearest in life, must be lost +also. Still, therefore, he drives on, but he almost despairs of +escaping. He has too much reason for his worst fears. Impatient for +their expected banquet, the wolves begin to leap up round the sledge, +just as the waves of a breaking sea rise tumultuously round the +labouring bark. In a few minutes all will be over. The miller knows +full well that his horses will soon be seized, and then that hope must +indeed depart. Ah! The fatal moment has come. Already a wolf, more +famished than his companions, has flown at the neck of one of his +horses. The animal plunges and rears in a frantic attempt to free +himself from his foe. Ah! At that instant the miller shouts louder +than before--his courage returns--he lashes furiously at the wolf--The +noble horse frees himself and dashes onward. + +"`We are saved--we are saved!' shouts the miller. `Wife, wife, arouse +yourself!' + +"Far off he sees advancing over the snow a large sledge; it glides +nearer and nearer. Those in it see what is occurring. Shot after shot +is fired, and the wolves fall thickly around. Dashing up at full speed, +a sledge approaches. The miller almost shrieks with joy. For an +instant he forgets those he has lost; yet only for an instant. He has +the fond heart of a father. The sportsmen load and fire again. They +have come in search of this very pack. The miller and the rest of his +family were saved; but it was many a long week before he or his poor +bereaved wife recovered from the effects of that day's adventure." + +"A very dreadful story indeed; very dreadful," observed Mr Evergreen. +"Do people generally get attacked by wolves when they travel by sledges +in winter." + +"I think we may safely say not generally," answered one of the Russian +guests, laughing. "If such were the case, people would be inclined to +stay at home. A story is current still more dreadful than the one you +have heard. + +"A peasant woman was driving a sledge with several of her children in it +from one village to another, when she was pursued by a pack of wolves. +As the brutes overtook her, she threw them one of her children, to +induce them to stop and eat it up, while she drove on. Child after +child was treated in the same way, till she reached a village, when the +villagers came out and drove the wolves back. When the mother told her +story, one of the villagers, in his rage at her inhumanity, struck her +dead on the spot with his axe." + +"A very dreadful story, but I do not believe a word about it," said +their host. "I do not believe that any woman would act so barbarous a +part." + +"Nor do I," observed Cousin Giles. "The slavers on the coast of Africa +are wont to play a similar trick when pursued by our cruisers. They +will throw a live slave overboard at a time, in the hopes that the +cruiser will heave-to or lower a boat to pick the poor black up, and +thus allow them more time to escape." + +"We often go out on sledges expressly to shoot the wolves," observed an +old country gentleman of the party. "We use large sledges, capable of +containing several persons, and we provide ourselves with plenty of guns +and ammunition. In one of the sledges a pig is carried, in charge of a +servant, and there is also a rope with a bag of hay, which is dragged +after the sledge. When we arrive on the ground where we expect to find +the wolves, the bag of hay is thrown out, and the servant gives the pig +a twitch of the tail, which makes it squeak lustily. Now, wolves are +especially fond of pork, and, hearing the well-known sounds, they hurry +out of their fastnesses from all quarters, in expectation of a feast. +As the brutes happily hunt by sight and sound, and not by scent, and +being, moreover, foolish brutes, as the more savage animals often are, +when they see the bag of hay they fancy that the pig must be inside it, +and eagerly give chase. Now the sport begins, and as the wolves draw +near, one after the other they get knocked over by the guns of the +sportsmen. We often kill numbers in that way, and thus get rid of most +noxious animals. Although their flesh is of no use, their skins are of +considerable value, mantles and cloaks being lined with them. A wolf is +a dangerous animal to meddle with when wounded. On one occasion I was +out hunting, when we had killed some fifty or more wolves. On our +return, we passed a remarkably large wolf, which lay apparently dead on +the snow. One of our party took it into his head that he would like to +possess himself of the skin, and, leaving the sledge, he approached the +brute with the intention of flaying it. He was about to take hold of +its muzzle, when the animal, resenting the indignity of having his nose +pulled, reared itself up on its forepaws, snarling furiously. Ere my +friend could spring back, the brute had seized him by the arm, and was +dragging him to the earth. In another instant his fangs would have been +at his throat, when the sportsman plunged his knife into its breast. +Still the wolf struggled with his antagonist. We were afraid to fire, +lest we should kill the man as well as the brute. It was a moment of +fearful suspense. The life-blood of the wolf was flowing freely, but +before he died he might have destroyed our friend. We drove to the spot +as fast as we could, in the hopes of being in time to rescue our +companion. As we were leaping from the sledge, the combatants rolled +over. Happily the man was uppermost. He drew a deep breath as we +released him. + +"`I never wish to have such a fight as that again,' he exclaimed, +shaking himself. `It must have lasted a quarter of an hour at least. +How was it you did not sooner come to my assistance?' + +"In reality, not two minutes had elapsed from the time he reached the +wolf till he finally killed it. His arm was somewhat lacerated, but his +thick coat had saved him. It was a lesson to me ever after, not to go +near a wild beast till I am certain he is put _hors de combat_." + +"The breaking up of the ice on the various rivers of Russia is a time of +great excitement," observed the Count. "In an instant the natural +bridges which the winter has formed are destroyed, often with little or +no warning, and people are hurried down the stream on the floating +masses of ice, frequently unable to reach the shore, till, one mass +driven under the other by the fierce rush of waters, they are engulfed +beneath them. I was one year at Jaroslaf, on the Volga, at that period. +You, my friends, who were there at the time, will not have forgotten +the circumstance. I was on horseback, riding along the banks of the +river, to watch the huge masses of ice which came floating down the +stream. Sometimes they would glide calmly by, in almost unbroken +sheets; then they would meet with some obstruction--either a narrow part +of the stream, or a promontory, or a rock--and then they would leap and +rush over each other, as if imbued with life, and eager to escape from +the pursuit of an enemy. The rushing and crushing and grinding of the +ice, and roar of the waters was almost deafening. The masses would +assume, too, all sorts of fantastic shapes, which one, with a slight +exertion of fancy, might imagine bears, and lions, and castles, and +ships under sail--indeed all sorts of things, animate and inanimate. As +I looked up the stream, my attention was drawn to a large black object, +which I soon made out to be a vessel of the largest size which navigates +those waters. She came gliding rapidly down--now stem, now stern +foremost; now whirling round and round, and evidently beyond all +control. To my horror, I perceived as she drew near there were several +men on board. The current brought her close to the bank where I was. +By the gaunt looks and gestures of the crew, I perceived that they were +suffering from hunger. This notion was confirmed when the vessel drew +still nearer. + +"`Oh, give us bread!--oh, give us bread!' they shouted, in piteous +tones. `We have had no food for these three days. We have been seven +days thus driving on, and unable to reach the shore.' + +"On hearing this, I galloped along the bank, so as to get before the +vessel, and succeeded in finding some bread at some cottages a little +way on. The peasants willingly brought it out, and by my directions +endeavoured to heave it on board the vessel. Oh, it was sad to see the +eager way in which the starving wretches held out their hands for the +food, but in vain. Loaf after loaf was thrown by the strongest men +present; but the bread, which would have preserved their lives, fell +into the water, or on to the masses of ice which surrounded the vessel, +some few yards only short of her. I and others galloped on, in the +hopes that she might be driven still nearer; but, as we thought she was +approaching, the current swept her away again into the middle of the +stream. It was a melancholy exemplification of the story of Tantalus. +There were those poor famished men floating down a river in the midst +truly of plenty--for where can be found more fertile regions!--and yet +they were unable to procure a mouthful of food to appease the pangs of +hunger. + +"I endeavoured to devise some plan to send them help; but all the plans +I could think of seemed hopeless. No boat could approach them, could +one have been procured, or people to man her. A stone might have +carried a thin line on board, but no thin line could be found. I asked +for one at every cottage I passed, but in vain. At length, with a sad +heart, I saw the vessel with her hapless crew drive by me. On she was +whirled by the rapid current till I lost sight of her. I had but faint +hopes of the people being saved. If, before starvation deprived them of +all strength to move, the vessel struck on one of the banks, they might +be saved. If not, they would be carried onward, down the stream, till +she reached the Caspian Sea, where, perhaps, leaky from the crushing she +had received from the masses of ice, she might go to the bottom; or, +after knocking about for a long time, she might be picked up, the bones +of her crew telling plainly their melancholy fate. + +"That very day, as I rode back, I witnessed another scene, which I shall +never forget. High up the stream I descried an object on a large slab +of ice which came floating down towards me. As it came nearer, I +perceived a telega, a country cart, with a horse harnessed to it. Near +it I saw a human figure kneeling. By his side was a dog, which, from +its attitude, even at that distance, I guessed was looking up into his +master's face. So still were all the figures, that I might have fancied +them a group chiselled out of marble. Nearer drew the sheet of ice. I +then saw that the figure was that of an old man; his cap had fallen off, +and his long white locks were streaming in the wind. His hands were +lifted up in prayer, and his lips moved, as if imploring aid from above. +His faithful dog looked up wistfully and inquiringly, as if to say, +`Master dear, what is the matter?--how can I help you?' The old man +seemed resigned fully to his fate, and not inclined to make an effort to +save himself. He turned his head, and then saw farther down the stream +a number of people, who were beckoning to him, and showing their anxiety +to save him. At first when he saw them, he shook his head, and once +more addressed himself to prayer. He had evidently given up all hope of +being saved. But when the cheering voices of his fellow-creatures +reached his ears, and he saw their friendly gestures, the desire to live +returned, and he rose from his knees. In his cart were a number of long +poles. He seized one of them, and stood balancing it in his hand, while +he looked eagerly towards the shore. He called to his dog, `Now, my +faithful one, you and I have a dangerous work to perform. Life or death +depends on the course we take.' He approached the edge of the floe, +which was now driven close to another large mass, and then whirled round +again, a wide gulf being left between them. The poor dog whined, and +drew back with dismay as he watched the eddying waters close before him. + +"`Courage, courage, friend!' shouted the people on the shore, as the +floe on which the old man stood approached another sheet of ice at that +moment attached to the shore. `Leap, leap, friend!' His tall sinewy +figure showed me that he might justly in his youth have trusted to his +athletic powers to save him from a similar predicament, but age, alas! +Had unstrung his nerves and weakened his muscles. He hesitated. Again +the people shouted, `Courage, courage!--leap, leap!' He looked up to +Heaven for a moment, and then sprang forward. His dog followed. There +was a shriek of horror; the treacherous ice, worn at the edges by the +constant abrasion of the other pieces, was rotten and unable to bear the +weight suddenly placed on it. It gave way ere he could take a second +leap, and sank beneath him. One cry escaped him, and the wild foaming +waters closed over his head. His dog, lighter of foot, reached the +shore in safety, and was till his death in my possession." + +The guests gave a shudder at the recital. + +"We have had enough of tales of horror for one day," said the Count. +"Have you ever tried our Russian bath, Fairman?" + +"No; I must confess to having neglected that duty of a traveller, who +ought to taste every dish, go through every operation, and see every +ceremony characteristic of the country," answered Cousin Giles, +laughing. "I cannot fancy a roll in the snow after a hot bath." + +"Whether it is injurious or not depends on the effect which the hot bath +produces on the frame," answered the Count. "Every country mansion has +a bath, placed near a stream, if possible. It is a very simple affair. +The bath-house is divided into two portions. In the inner half is a +large oven, and high up round the walls are rows of seats. In the oven +are placed large stones which are completely heated through. In the +room stand ready some buckets of water. The people who are to bathe +then come in and take their seats on the benches, having left their +clothes in the outer room; the door is closed, and the water is thrown +over the hot stones. This fills the whole room with hot vapour, which +thoroughly penetrates the pores of the skin. The bathers are then +rubbed over with towels and brushes, and a profuse perspiration ensues, +which continues till all superfluous moisture has exuded from the body. +There is then, it must be understood, no lassitude, no weakness, such as +is produced by physical exertion, while also perspiration has in reality +ceased. The frame, therefore, is not liable to receive a chill, but is, +on the contrary, strengthened to resist it. Consequently, a person may +either rush out into the freezing air and roll in the snow, or may +plunge into a bath of pure cold water with impunity. For this purpose +the bath-houses are, as I said, built near a stream or pond; and most +refreshing and invigorating it is, after taking the steam-bath, to leap +into the bright, sparkling stream. One comes out again like a new +being, feeling capable of any exertion." + +Cousin Giles and his companions declared, after the description they had +heard, that they should be anxious to take a true Russian bath before +they left the country. + +The conversation was interrupted by the arrival of some musicians and +singers, who came expressly to amuse the company. The instrumental +music was very good, and received, as it merited, an abundance of +applause; but the great amusement of the evening was a contest between +two rival singers. On their introduction they bowed to the company, +which was composed evidently of persons much superior to them in rank. + +"Come, friend Nedopeouski, do you begin," said the Count, addressing a +tall man with a very quiet, almost sheepish expression of countenance. +Thus summoned, the singer, who had been standing for some time alone +without uttering a word, began an air, which it was evident could only +be accomplished by a person capable of reaching the highest notes. He +soon showed that he was equal to what he had undertaken. It was +wonderful the mode in which he played with his voice: it rose and fell, +and swelled again, now seeming to come through the roof from the clouds, +now scarcely audible; sweet and strong notes succeeded each other with +rapid transition. Then others present joined in chorus, and this +seeming to encourage him to still further exertions, he quickly +surpassed all his first efforts, till, utterly overcome, he could sing +no longer, and would have sunk on the ground had not some of the guests, +enraptured by the music, sprung up and caught him in their arms. Loud +acclamations of delight broke from every one present, and it appeared as +if there was no use in his rival attempting to compete with him. On the +speedy recovery of the first singer, the Count, however, beckoned to him +to begin. He rose and stood forward. At first his voice was weak, but +his notes seemed to rivet the attention of his audience. As he +proceeded, it became more and more animated, firmer, and fuller, +exhibiting a wonderful combination of freshness, sweetness, and power; +so exquisitely plaintive, so overflowing with poignant grief--for it was +of a melancholy character--that tears, sobs, and groans broke from the +breasts of most of his audience. It was truly the triumph of song over +human feelings, and the palm of victory was unanimously awarded to the +last singer. + +"I am glad you heard these singers," observed the Count, as his guests +were retiring for the night. "We Russians are celebrated, I believe, +for our musical talents, and I think you have heard a fair specimen of +them this evening." + + + +CHAPTER EIGHTEEN. + + Preparations for a Hunt--Ride to Cover--Account of an Insurrection of + Peasants--Game breaks Cover--Fred and Harry lose their Way--Chase a + Stag--Desperate Encounter with a She-wolf--Harry's Bravery--Saved by + Saveleff the Molokani--The Count promises to assist Saveleff--Return + to Moscow. + +A fine bright morning, which ushered in the day appointed for the hunt, +gave promise of much amusement. Breakfast being over at an early hour, +the Count and his guests mounted the horses, which were led forth in +front of the house by high-booted, long pink-shirted, wide-trousered +peasants, looking as unlike English grooms as a polar bear does to an +opera-dancer. Cousin Giles was not a bad horseman for a sailor, and the +lads were delighted with the steeds provided for them; but Mr Evergreen +had great doubts whether he should risk his neck on the back of an +animal with which he was unacquainted. The Count, however, assured him +that the horse selected for him bore a very good character for +quietness, so at last he persuaded himself to mount. People of all +ranks came from far and near to join the hunt. They were dressed in all +sorts of costumes, partaking much of a military character, and the +steeds which they rode were as varied in character as their masters. +Some were more like chargers and cart-horses than hunters of the English +stamp; the greater number were little Cossack horses not bigger than +ponies, with long tails and shaggy coats. + +"Don't laugh, my friend," said the Count to Cousin Giles, as five or six +tall picqueurs, in splendid green-and-gold liveries, rode forth on the +above-described style of little steeds, driving before them a number of +dogs of a most mongrel appearance, at whom a pack of aristocratic +English hounds would most certainly have turned up their noses. "You +see, my predecessor was of the old school, and I do not wish to make any +sudden changes in matters of small importance, lest I should be +considered to hold his memory in slight esteem. By degrees I hope to +make improvements, but sudden changes do not suit this country." + +A large number of persons, very picturesque in appearance, had now +collected in front of the mansion. The huntsmen blew their horns and +cracked their whips, the dogs barked and yelped and gave tongue in a +variety of ways, the horses pranced and kicked, the peasants shouted, +and the whole party set off towards the spot appointed for the meet. A +ride of three or four versts brought them in front of a dilapidated +building on the borders of a wood. + +"That house was erected as a hunting-box by one of my predecessors many +years ago," observed the Count. Many hundreds of people used to +assemble here in the olden days, to hunt in a style of magnificence +which has now become obsolete. Open house was kept, and all comers were +welcome. Intimates of the family, or those of rank, were accommodated +inside, some in beds and some on the floor, while others bivouacked +outside as best they could under arbours of boughs or beneath the vault +of heaven. They used to hunt all day and feast all night for a whole +week or longer, without intermission. From the secluded position of the +place, it was for many months of the year totally unvisited. There +existed at that time three or four landlords, owners of large numbers of +serfs, whom they treated with great harshness, if I may not, indeed, say +with much barbarity. For long the unhappy people groaned helplessly +under their tyranny, which was made yet more severe by the cruel and +grasping dispositions of their overseers. The laws existing for the +protection of the serfs were in every way evaded, and every kopeck which +could be wrung from them was exacted without mercy. A worm will turn on +the foot which treads on it. The man who had charge of this house was +educated above his fellows. He had read in history of peasants, poor +and simple men, revolting against their rulers when tyrannised over to +excess, and thought and meditated on what he had read. At length he +persuaded himself that he could emancipate his fellow-serfs from +tharldom, and enable them to avenge themselves on their tyrants. He +opened his plans at first to a few, and by degrees to others. They used +to assemble at this house, where there was no fear of their being +disturbed. Often they met, and much they planned, till they believed, +their plans were ripe for execution. At first they drew up a +remonstrance, which in the humblest manner they presented to their +masters. It was treated with the bitterest scorn. They resolved on +wreaking a dreadful vengeance on their oppressors; they supplied +themselves with fire-arms--how procured the authorities could not +discover--others armed themselves with scythes, reaping-hooks, hatchets, +pikes, and weapons of every description. With these in their hands they +rushed through the district, calling their fellow-serfs to arms. The +call was answered by many; others hung back, dreading the consequences +should the outbreak prove unsuccessful, as the more sagacious knew it +must be. Still many hundreds, I might say thousands, rose to wreak a +fearful vengeance on the heads of their lords; but they had no one +capable of commanding them. They murdered all the inmates of the first +house they attacked, and burned it to the ground. They rushed from +house to house, burning, murdering, and destroying all that came in +their way. For many days they set all authority at defiance, and there +appeared no power capable of stemming the torrent of their fury. + +"In the meantime, Government, having notice of what was taking place, +was sending down troops at once to crush the insurrection. The largest +body of the insurgents were met by the troops, and quickly breaking, +were driven before them like a flock of sheep, the greater number being +slaughtered without mercy; the remainder threw themselves into this +house, resolving to defend themselves to the last. It is said they made +a brave resistance, but the building was stormed, and not one of its +defenders was left alive to tell the tale. The house has ever since +remained in ruins, and shunned by all the peasants in the neighbourhood. +Several similar outbreaks have occurred at different times among the +serfs, with similar consequences. The people of Russia are not fit to +govern themselves. They may at some time become so, but at present, +were they to attempt it, they would bring certain destruction on +themselves and the country at large. I speak to you as a friend, and +perhaps in an unpatriotic way tell you of occurrences which ought to be +kept secret; but I trust that you have seen many things in Russia to +admire, and will not judge us over harshly when you hear of some of our +weak points. But, tally ho! The huntsmen's horns give notice that the +pack have found some game. It will soon break cover, and then away +after it!" + +Besides the gaily-coated picqueurs on horseback, a number of peasants +habited in the usual pink shirt, wide green breeches, and willow-woven +sandals, were engaged with long sticks in beating the bushes and +underwood which grew in thick clumps in the forest. The green-and-gold +coated huntsmen galloped about outside, sounding their horns, shouting +to the peasants, and watching eagerly the movements of the dogs. On a +sudden the huntsmen sounded their horns more gaily than before, the +people shouted, and a large fox broke from the cover, and darted away +along the skirts of the wood. Away went the hounds, and away went the +horsemen after him, the Count and his English friends shouting "Tally +ho! Tally ho!" in right honest British fashion, while the peasants gave +utterance to the wildest cries, which sounded wonderfully strange in the +travellers' ears. + +It was not very hard riding, although Mr Evergreen seemed to think it +so; but as he was mounted on a fast horse, he, in spite of himself, kept +well ahead of most of the field. Cousin Giles and the Count rode +alongside each other, and the two Markhams kept together. + +They had not gone far when another fox showed his nose out of the wood, +apparently to learn what was going forward, and a few of the dogs +instantly made chase after him, while the huntsmen followed the main +body. + +"Tally ho!" shouted Fred Markham. "Harry, let us have a hunt of our +own. It will be fine fun to bring home a brush which we have got all by +ourselves." + +"Capital fun," answered Harry; and boy-like, thought less of the +consequences, away they galloped after the four or five dogs which had +separated themselves from the chase. No one followed. The fox led them +directly into the wood. He was a knowing old fellow, and was aware that +they would thus have the greatest difficulty in overtaking him. Deeper +and deeper they got into the forest, but the dogs had still the scent of +the old fox. + +"I wish that we could kill a deer now," exclaimed Harry. "That would be +something to boast of." + +"Or a wolf, rather," cried Fred. "That is nobler game, for he shows +more fight." + +"Yes, I should like to fall in with a wolf," responded his brother. +"But I say, Fred, how are we to kill him if we find him?" + +"Knock him on the head with the butt end of our whip! That is what he +deserves, at all events." + +"Easier said than done," observed Harry. "However, I'll stick by you, +don't fear, if we should find one of the rascals. I shall ever hate a +wolf after the story we heard the other night." + +Thus talking, the lads galloped on. Suddenly a deer started up from an +open glade which lay before them. They looked round for the old fox--he +was nowhere to be seen, and the dogs appeared to have lost the scent. +However, as soon as the deer began to run they followed, evidently not +at all particular as to what they had to pursue. + +"Rare fun this is," shouted Fred and Harry, as they galloped after the +deer. But the dogs, already tired, had not the slightest chance of +overtaking the nimble-footed animal, though, had the young hunters been +provided with rifles, they could quickly have brought her to the ground. + +"Hallo! Where is she?" exclaimed Fred, as the deer darted among a thick +clump of trees. + +"I am sure I saw her but a moment ago," answered Harry. "Let us get +round to the other side of the clump, she will have gone through it." + +If she had gone through the clump, she had gone a long way beyond it, +for she was nowhere to be seen on the other side. The dogs also were +equally at fault, and began to stray about, as if each one was resolved +to have a hunt by himself. Where our friends had got to by this time, +they could not tell. They proposed returning to the ruined house where +the hunt had met, but in what direction to find it was the puzzle. + +"This is worse than losing ourselves in the streets of Saint +Petersburg," cried Harry, who was in no ways daunted. "The fox and the +deer have brought us all this way--I wish we could find a wolf or a bear +to show us the road home again." + +"Not much chance of that," answered Fred, as they rode on in the +direction they fancied would lead them whence they had come. "But, I +say, hallo, what is that shaggy-looking brute showing his head out of +the hollow stump of that old tree there?" As he spoke, a loud snarling +growl saluted their ears. + +"A big she-wolf and her cubs," shouted Harry. "Let's knock her over, +the brute." + +"For mercy's sake, don't attempt anything so rash," cried Fred. "She +will prove an ugly customer to deal with, depend on it." + +The white, grinning teeth and ferocious aspect of the wolf fully +corroborated Fred's assertion. Still the lads did not like to decline +the combat, but without fire-arms or spears they were hard pressed to +know what to do. They rode round and round the tree at a respectful +distance, the wolf following them with her eyes, though she would not +leave her cubs either to escape or to attack them. Still the lads, +thoughtless of the risk they ran, could not bring themselves to leave +the beast alone. + +"Hang it, I must give her a lick over the chops, just to remind her that +she must not eat up little children in future," cried Harry, riding up +towards the beast. The wolf looked at Harry, as much as to say, "You +had better not, master, for if you do, I'll give you a taste of my +fangs." Harry rode on. The wolf stood up, and advanced a step or two +beyond her lair, grinning horribly. + +"Stay, stay, Harry!" shouted Fred, dashing on before him. "The wolf +will fly at you." + +The wolf took the movement as the signal of attack, and with a terrible +snarl, which sounded far more ferocious than the bark or growl of a dog, +flew at Fred's horse, evidently intending to pull the rider to the +ground. Never had Fred been in peril so terrific. A cry of horror +escaped him; he could not restrain it, but, speedily recovering his +presence of mind, he began to belabour the head of the wolf. Harry, +true to his promise, nothing daunted, came to his assistance, but their +blows, though given with a hearty good-will, had not the slightest +effect on the head of the wolf. On the contrary, they only seemed to +increase her fury. She let go, but it was only to spring again with +surer aim. The poor horse, torn by her fangs, reared with pain and +fright, as the savage brute again sprang towards him. In another moment +its fangs would have been fixed in Fred's thigh. Alas! Poor fellow! +His life was in dreadful jeopardy. + +"Oh! What can I do? What can I do?" cried poor Harry. + +The wolf and her cubs seemed to say, "Gallop away while you can, or we +will eat you up as well as your brother." + +At that critical moment a rifle-shot was heard, and the wolf, with a +yelp of pain and rage, let go her hold. Directly afterwards a man was +seen, with a rifle in his hand, running through the forest towards them. + +"Oh, you are saved!--you are saved, my brother," cried Harry, giving way +to his feelings of affection. + +"In mercy I am," answered Fred, looking down at the wounded wolf, whom +he seemed inclined to strike with his whip. + +The stranger shouted to them as he advanced. They could not understand +what he said, but they thought it was probably telling them not to +meddle with the wolf. As soon as he came up to the spot he drew a long +knife from a sheath at his side, and in the most deliberate way, +evidently the result of long practice, approaching the brute from +behind, plunged it into her neck. + +"Bravo! Bravo!" shouted Fred and Harry. "Thanks--thanks! Oh, how we +wish we could thank you in your own language." + +The stranger looked up with a smile on his countenance, and the lads +then recognised him as their new attendant, the Molokani, Steffanoff +Saveleff. They put out their hands to shake his. He smiled again, and +pointed westward through the forest. + +"Oh, but we want the skin of the beast," said Fred; "I'll keep it as a +memorial of what you have done for me." + +"And we may as well kill the cubs, or they will be growing up, and will +soon become as unamiable as their mother," added Harry, pointing to the +tree. + +Steffanoff understood the action which accompanied the remark, and very +soon put an end to the young wolves. Thus, in hunter guise, they took +their way through the forest. The lads chatted freely to their guide, +and though he could not understand a word they said, he looked up every +now and then with one of those pleasant smiles which showed that he +would gladly have talked to them if he could. His step was so elastic +and rapid, that he kept their horses at a short trot the whole way. + +The Count and his friends got home soon after they arrived, and Cousin +Giles expressed no small satisfaction at seeing them. This was very +much increased when he heard the risk they had run; and Steffanoff came +in most deservedly for his share of praise for the way in which he had +rescued the lads. + +"Tell him," said Cousin Giles to Mr Allwick, "that I was inclined to +serve him before, but that now I am doubly anxious to be of use to him. +Had any accident happened to the two lads, I should never have forgiven +myself." + +Cousin Giles being certain that he could depend on the Count, gave him a +sketch of Saveleff's life, for the purpose of gaining his advice and +assistance. + +The Count shook his head. "I am afraid that he has very little chance +of success," said he; "still I will gladly assist and protect him to the +utmost of my power." + +When Saveleff heard, through Mr Allwick, the promise which had been +made him, he also shook his head. "I am deeply grateful to the Count," +said he; "but I have no faith in what my countrymen can do for me." + +A few days after this occurrence the whole party set off for Moscow, to +be present at the coronation of the Emperor. + + + +CHAPTER NINETEEN. + + Letter from Fred Markham to his Mother--Entrance of the Czar into + Moscow--Saveleff presents his Petition--Grand Review of Troops-- + Coronation of the Emperor--Fete at the Opera--State Balls--The + Illumination--The People's Feast--The People's Ball--Fireworks-- + Character of Russians--Thieving Propensities--Russian's Aptitude for + Commerce--Cucumber-water--Aqueduct of Moscow--Cursing Heretics-- + Blessing the Waters--Blessing Fruits--Christening Ceremony--Story of a + Post-office for the Saints--High Mass in a Greek Church--Preparations + for Leaving Moscow--Last News of Saveleff. + +"Moscow, _30th September_, 1856. + +"Dearest Mother,--We are delighted that we came back to Moscow, for we +have seen some magnificent sights, such as we are not likely to see +again; and, thanks to the Count's kindness, we saw everything to the +best advantage, which I will now try and describe to you as briefly as I +can. The very day we came here the Emperor arrived at his +boiled-crab-like palace of Petrofsky, in front of which his camp of +sixty thousand men is pitched. The 29th of August was fixed for his +entrance into the city. A long, somewhat winding street, with houses of +all heights and sizes, leads from the city gate to the Kremlin. Rows +above rows of benches were placed at every interval between the houses, +as also on their roofs, and in front of them, every bench being covered +with people in their best attire, while the sides of the street were +densely crowded with mujicks, both men and women, in their holiday +suits, the centre part being kept clear by lines of cavalry; gay +carpets, cloths, flags, and banners of every description hung out of all +the windows, adding to the brilliancy of the scene. We got first-rate +seats near the entrance to the Kremlin. The morning was rainy, but in +the forenoon the weather cleared, and ringing of bells and firing of big +guns, and talking and laughing, and hurrying of people to and fro to +their posts, and marching of infantry and cavalry, occupied the time +till four o'clock, when the Emperor entered the city gate; troops of +many Asiatic tribes, in various gorgeous costumes, and imperial guards, +and nobles of the realm, in magnificent uniforms, preceding him, while +he was followed by the members of his family and their wives in five +carriages--fine enough to make the Lord Mayor of London and all the +Sheriffs jealous. + +"All the great people were accompanied by running footmen, lacqueys, and +others, and the whole procession was wound up with some fine squadrons +of cuirassiers. Priests in their robes, with their crosses and pictures +of saints, stood at all the churches, and at the doors of some the +Emperor dismounted and kissed them--not the priests, but the crosses and +pictures--as he and his Empress did also the relics and pictures of +saints of peculiar sanctity in the various cathedrals. And lastly, in +the cathedral of Saint Michael, they prostrated themselves before the +tombs of those of their ancestors who are there buried. Cousin Giles +said it struck him as setting somewhat of an example of idolatry to his +subjects; but I do not suppose that he troubled himself about any such +consideration. The universal custom of presenting bread and salt was +performed by the Archbishop of Moscow to the Emperor as he entered the +palace of the Kremlin, and here the ceremony of the day concluded. We +eagerly watched to see if our friend Saveleff could find an opportunity +of presenting his petition to the Emperor. Whenever the Czar stopped, +the crowd pressed forward, and, amid shouts and cries, took his hand, +and pressed it to their lips. + +"`I see him! I see him!' cried Harry, as nodding plumes, and glittering +helmets, and rich turbans, and tall spears, and shining swords, and gay +banners were defiling through the gate of the Kremlin. + +"We looked eagerly among the crowd, and then we saw a mujick working his +way to the front rank, with a paper held out in one hand above his head. +We could not hear, of course, what he said, but whatever was his +appeal, his brethren made way for him. We were certain he could be no +other than Saveleff. He had just reached the position he sought, when +the Emperor himself approached. The Emperor bowed and smiled, and held +out his hand to a number of mujicks, who were pressing forward to kiss +it. At that moment, Saveleff, with a few hurried words, thrust his +paper between the Emperor's fingers. We understand that he exclaimed, +`Oh, your Majesty, look at my document--life and death depends on it. +Grant my petition!' The Czar cast a look of surprise at the audacious +mujick, and, without saying a word, handed the paper to an officer near +him. But the result of all his toils, his sufferings, his anxieties-- +ah, you will ask, what is that?--we cannot tell. The Count has done his +utmost to forward his object. His parents are still on their way to +Siberia, if they have survived the hardships they have endured. His +betrothed is still among the gipsies, and may any day be dragged back to +slavery. The poor fellow remains with us, and is unmolested, but he is +in low spirits, and hopeless of success. Still, he says that he would +gladly go through far greater hardships and troubles than he has endured +for the sake of the faith to which he holds. Cousin Giles would have +taken him with us to England, but he will not quit the country which +holds his betrothed, nor give up all prospects of rescuing his parents. + +"I must, however, try to give you an idea of what took place during the +coronation festival. The next thing which took place was a grand parade +of all the troops in the camp, now increased to one hundred and twenty +thousand men. Some of the cavalry had a fine appearance, dressed in +Oriental costume. There were Circassians, or rather Lesghians, and +other tribes bordering on the Caucasus--some in chain armour, others in +white robes. There were Greeks and Albanians in their national costume, +ferocious Koords, and terrier-looking Cossacks, with long lances, on +shaggy little ponies, looking as if they would bite any one who came in +their way. All the great people were there. The finest thing was a +charge of twelve thousand dragoons, who literally made the ground +tremble under them. They afterwards galloped up to the Emperor, and, +drawing their swords simultaneously, with loud shouts, exclaimed--`We +wish your health, Czar!' and then, wheeling round, dashed off at full +speed. + +"I must next tell you about the coronation itself. It took place in the +Church of the Assumption, before which a large court had been formed by +railing in several other churches, and covering them with galleries. +These were filled with all the great people of the nation and their +visitors. The arched roof of the church is supported by four massive +pillars, covered with gold; under them sat the Emperor and Empress, +surrounded by their Court. The Emperor took the crown, an immense one, +blazing with jewels, from the Metropolitan who held it, and with his own +hands placed it on his head. This he did to intimate that from no +earthly power, clerical or lay, did he receive his sovereignty. The +Empress then advanced, and kneeling before him, he touched her forehead +with the crown, and then replaced it on his own head. The +Empress-mother, who was the first to advance to congratulate her son, +burst into tears, it is said, while her children, forgetful of all rules +of etiquette, clung affectionately round him. The whole congregation +wept, overcome at the sight. + +"That same night all Moscow was illuminated, and a truly fairy-like +spectacle it was. Every tower, minaret, cupola, dome, the front of its +vast palace, and all the walls of the Kremlin were a blaze of light; so +was the vast square with the arches which temporarily surround it, and +the superb opera-house at one end, all the palaces of the great people, +and the public buildings. You remember our description of the Cathedral +of Saint Basil, with its wondrous towers and domes, and its various +ins-and-outs? Every part of that bizarre building was clearly traced +with bright lamps, and the effect was curiously beautiful. We walked +about, and gazed and gazed with wonder and delight, till our eyes were +so dazzled that we could scarcely see our way home. + +"After this there were grand galas at the opera, and balls at the +palace, and one at the English Ambassador's, where McAllister, Lord +Stafford's piper, figured as a very important personage. The people +also had their feast, the preparations for which we had seen; but they +rushed up to the tables, and made away with the food, either down their +throats or into their pockets, before the arrival of the Emperor and the +greater part of the intended spectators. They, however, behaved much +better at a ball which the Emperor gave them at the palace in the +Kremlin. Dance they could not, but the mujicks and their wives and +daughters walked about the vast halls, admiring the wonders they beheld, +and eating and drinking as much of the delicate viands prepared for them +as they could procure. + +"Last night there was a grand display of fireworks, but somehow or other +they did not go off at the right time and place; however, I daresay that +the crowd were equally astonished and delighted as if each squib and +cracker had played its part properly. One thing I must say for the +Russians, that they are a very orderly, well-behaved people; and in all +the vast crowds we saw, the people appeared kind and good-natured to +each other in the extreme. There was no unnecessary pushing and +shoving, and none of that abusive language which is so disgusting in an +English crowd; on the contrary, every one appeared good-tempered and +happy. + +"I really like the Russians in many respects. Their faults are rather +the consequence of bad government and a faulty religion, than such as +are inherent in their race. If a pure religion were introduced among +them generally, and their government were to become more and more +liberal, till they are capable of governing themselves, another century +would see a very great change in them for the better. At present a +large number of them are semi-barbarians, with the ignorance and vices +of barbarism; and although they may be easily governed under the present +despotic system, they are equally liable to be led into revolt by any +designing man who is bold enough to risk his life on the chance of +success. I give you Cousin Giles' opinion on the subject, which is of +more value than mine. + +"I am sorry to say that in the capitals a number of people are found not +a little addicted to picking and stealing. Not that housebreakers or +footpads are to be found, but it is not safe to leave things about in +one's room. One day, while we were at dinner, I found that I had left +my pocket-handkerchief up-stairs, so I ran to get it. What was my +surprise to find the door open, which I felt certain I had locked, and +on looking in to observe a gentleman very composedly stowing away in a +towel some shirts and other clothes which had just come home from the +laundress. + +"`Hollo, old fellow, what are you about?' + +"`_Si chasse_--_si chasse_,' (presently--presently), he answered, with +the greatest coolness, as if he was employed in something he had been +ordered to do. They were some of the very few words of Russian I knew. + +"`I'll not trouble you, my man. Just put those things down, and get out +of this as fast as you can,' I exclaimed, walking up to him. He tried +to grasp the things, and to make a bolt with them, but I was too quick +for him; and while I sung out at the top of my voice, he let the things +fall, and made a dart out of the room. I followed him as fast as I +could run, and had I not unfortunately slipped, I should have caught +him, and held him fast till my shouts brought the people from the +dining-room to my assistance. As it was, the fellow escaped, to my +great disappointment, though he took nothing with him. The Russian +thieves are also very expert at picking pockets, and at the time of the +coronation they had plenty of opportunities in exercising their +vocation. Harry and I lost our pocket-handkerchiefs one day, but after +that we followed Cousin Giles' advice, and fastened them into our +pockets. The Russians are great traders; they begin their mercantile +pursuits at a very early age. Little fellows, who would be playing at +marbles or hoop in England, if they were not at school, here manage +shops or stalls in the streets. They are as sharp, too, as any grown-up +men, and if they do not cheat others, they take very good care that they +are not cheated themselves. We have seen small urchins not more than +seven or eight years old with a store of wax-tapers or picture-books, or +quass, of which they pressed all passers-by with the greatest +pertinacity to become purchasers. We stopped several times with Mr +Allwick to talk to them, and we found that they knew not only all about +their own trade, but had already a good knowledge about trade in +general. Many of the richest shopkeepers in Moscow and Saint Petersburg +have sprung from this humble class of dealers. + +"Many of the shopkeepers have a very Jewish look, and employ the very +mode which the Jews in London, in some of the back streets, do to induce +passers-by to purchase their wares. They stand in front of their shops, +and as soon as they see any one approaching, they step forward, uttering +praises of their goods, and, with hands stretched out, look as if they +would forcibly detain the stranger, and as if they would consider +themselves very ill-used should he not become a purchaser. + +"The Russians are great eaters of raw vegetables, especially of onions +and cucumbers. They eat them pickled in salt, and most thoroughly +unwholesome they appeared. They drink also the juice of the cucumber, +mixed with water, which is called cucumber-water. It is said to form a +very cooling beverage in summer! But I suspect the water forms the best +part of the potation. They are very fond of all sorts of sour +vegetables. They have a species of apple, which they allow to freeze in +winter, in which state it is preserved, and though it has a very +withered appearance, it is really full of juice. + +"Moscow is supplied with water by an aqueduct which reaches to about +three versts from the city. It is there forced by a steam-engine into a +basin at the top of a lofty tower in Garden Street, where pipes carry it +to the various reservoirs in different directions for the supply of the +houses. Over every spring in Russia, preserved for the use of man, is +placed the picture of a saint, who is supposed to have the special +charge of the water. Over this reservoir there is one of particular +sanctity, but I am not acquainted with his name. This tower, which is +called the Sukhareva Bashnia, is the most lofty in the city, and a view +is to be obtained from it still more interesting than that from Ivan +Veleki, because one sees, not only the surrounding city, but the +wonderful Kremlin itself. At the top of the tower the Russian eagle, +made of silver, expands its wings over a silver basin, and from this +silver basin radiate fifty pipes, each an inch in diameter, which carry +fifty streams for the supply of the inhabitants. + +"One of the most curious ceremonies of which we heard in the Greek +Church is that of cursing the heretics. First, there is a grand mass, +and much singing and lighting of tapers, and then the chief priest, who +has always a powerful, deep voice, pronounces an awful curse on the +false Demetrius, Mazeppa, and several other noted worthies, long +departed from all terrestrial influence. Many people, and heretics of +all descriptions, are also cursed, and then the choir chants forth in +melodious tones the words _anafema, anafema_, repeated sometimes by all +the congregation with most startling effect. The Russians are, however, +more given to blessing than to cursing. The priests, at the same time, +consider themselves entitled to payment for their blessings. No true +believer is content unless all his possessions are especially blessed: +his house, his cattle, his horses, flocks; the fruits growing in his +garden; his corn-fields, his children; the well which supplies him with +water; indeed, all he possesses. He believes that nothing he undertakes +will prosper unless the priest has first blessed the implements he uses, +and his religious instructor takes no pains to undeceive him. One of +the most curious ceremonies is that of blessing the waters. It is +performed three times in the year; once in spring, once in midsummer, +and once on the ice in winter. The latter is the most curious. The +nearest large piece of water is selected--either a river, a lake, or a +pond. On the ice a large arbour, composed of birch trees, is formed to +represent a church, with a gallery in the form of an amphitheatre. In +the centre a square hole is broken, so that the water can be reached. +From the neighbouring church a procession of priests approaches with +pictures, and crosses, and flags, and tapers, and with loud chanting +enters the arbour. Here a service is performed, and as soon as it is +over they march forth again with very picturesque effect, and the cross +is dipped several times in the water. By this ceremony it is believed +the water is especially blessed, and made wholesome for man, beast, +bird, and fish. No sooner has it been performed than the multitude who +have been surrounding the spot rush eagerly forward with bottles, jugs, +pots, and pans, and fill their vessels, and also drink as much as they +can. Not only is the water itself blessed, but all the streams, and +wells, and fountains in the neighbourhood are equally benefited. It is +curious to see the way in which the people dabble in the water, throw it +over their persons, though it freezes as it falls, and drink of it till +they can drink no more; all this being done in the belief that the water +is holy, and that they will be especially benefited thereby. The +ceremony in summer is very similar, only the arbours are formed on the +banks of the river or lake, and people manage to drink still more +abundantly, with fewer ill effects. A still more interesting festival +is that of blessing the fruit, which takes place on the 6th of August. +It is held in the country, in front of one of the principal churches or +convents. People of all classes, rich and poor, high and low, assemble +from all quarters, far and near, in vehicles of every description. In +front of the church are long rows of fruit-sellers' booths to supply +those who have brought no fruit with them. High Mass is then performed +in the church, and as soon as it is concluded the priests come forth +with bowls of holy water, with which they march up and down among the +lines of people, drawn up in all directions, with fruits in their hands, +sprinkling the consecrated liquid on either side as they go. As soon as +this has been done, the people set to work and eat greedily of the +various fruits which have been sprinkled, which they have not before +ventured to touch, under the belief that till then they are unwholesome. +In the more northern districts the fruit is very often far from ripe, +but yet they eat away, under the belief that it can do them no harm. +They will even give small infants in arms large green apples to suck, +fancying that they cannot hurt them, poor little things. As, however, I +have seen nursemaids in England equally foolish, I will not blame the +ignorant Russian peasant. Cousin Giles says that the same sort of +ceremonies are performed in Roman Catholic countries, where horses and +cattle are blessed in due form by a plentiful sprinkling of holy water. +It would all appear very ridiculous to us, were it not sadly +blasphemous. To a stranger, one of the most curious ceremonies in the +Greek Church is that of baptism. The infant, soon after it is born, is +brought by its godfathers and godmothers to the church--neither of its +parents being present. The priest first asks if it will renounce the +devil and all his works; the sponsors answer for it, that it will. The +priest thereon commands the devil, who is supposed to have hitherto had +possession of it, to take his departure. The order is believed to be +instantly obeyed, and the priest consequently spits over his shoulder at +the devil, who is beating a hasty retreat. His example is followed by +all present, who spit with unfeigned satisfaction at the discomfited +Evil One. The whole party then walk in procession three times round the +font. At its conclusion the priest consecrates the water by putting it +into a metal cross, and then immerses in it the infant three times, +pronouncing at the end its baptismal name. As a visible sign that the +child is now a Christian, the priest suspends round its neck, by a black +string, a small metal cross, which it ever afterwards wears as an +amulet. I remember well hearing of such crosses being found on the +slain at the Alma and other battle-fields in the Crimea, but did not at +the time know their signification. Next the child is dressed, and +carried once more round the font with a procession of burning tapers, +which, symbolising the Holy Spirit, signify that the child has now +received that Spirit within it, of which it was before destitute. +Lastly, the infant's eyes, ears, mouth, hands, and feet are anointed +with holy oil, and pieces of hair are cut from its head, and rolled up +with wax into a ball, and thrown into the font. No Russian has more +than one Christian name. This custom arises from the belief that every +name has its representative among the angels in heaven, who have the +especial charge of all persons bearing that name; in return, it is +expected that the prayers of mortals should especially be addressed to +their guardian angels. Only one name is given, because it is said that +a person can have only one guardian angel; if he had two, it might be +doubtful which was to watch over him, and to which he should address his +prayers. Cousin Giles observes that, when once people depart from the +simple truths of Christianity, it is impossible to say what absurdities +they may believe, or of what follies they may be guilty. As the people +become enlightened, the priests of a false faith are compelled to refine +their system; at present, in Russia, nothing is too gross for the +credulity of the people to swallow. + +"We attended mass the other day at the Uspensky Sabor (the Cathedral of +the Resurrection). It was a very gorgeous ceremony, although, as it +lasted three hours, it was very fatiguing; but we determined to stand it +out, and afterwards never to go to another. I can only attempt to give +an outline of the ceremonies. The church being crowded with people, a +priest came through one of the side doors of the screen, and in a +stentorian voice, with hand uplifted, announced that service was +beginning. Some ceremony then took place behind the screen. Soon +afterwards another priest entered, with two attendants, bearing over his +head a huge Bible with a richly ornamented cover. It was allowed just +to touch his forehead. Being placed on a desk in front of the chief +door in the screen, another priest in a very irreverential and hurried +manner read some chapters from it, the choir constantly repeating the +words, `_Gospodi poluomini_,' (the Lord have mercy on us). The effect +of these words, in a rich chant, soft, full, and swelling, is very +beautiful. They continually occur throughout the service. We could see +the high priest all the time through the open work of the chief door +moving about before the altar. At length a fine psalm was sung, the +chief door was thrown open, the high altar and its splendid decorations +were displayed, and from the side doors issued forth the whole troop of +officiating priests bearing the bread and wine for the sacrament, +preceded by one man with a lighted taper, and the high priest coming in +the rear with a silver chalice; the procession is closed by a priest +with a salver on his head. Again they all entered the sanctuary, the +bread and wine were placed on the altar, and the priest kneeling, what +is called transubstantiation is supposed to take place. While this act +is performing, all Turks, heretics, and infidels are commanded to leave +the church. Numerous prayers are then offered up for the Emperor, the +Imperial family, and for a variety of objects. The most impressive part +is when the high priest prays for a blessing on the bread and wine, and +shakes the bread into the chalice. Afterwards those who intend to +partake of the sacrament are invited to come forward, and the bread and +wine together are administered in a small silver spoon, the communicants +holding their hands on their breasts, and kneeling three times. We were +very much struck with the little the congregation had to do with the +service. They had no book, they did not join in the singing, and they +could scarcely have understood what the priest said who read from the +Bible. Their only business seemed to be to cross themselves and to bow, +touching the ground with their foreheads, during the whole three hours +the affair lasted. Still the churches fill, and the people fancy, I +suppose, that they derive some benefit from what takes place. The music +is certainly very fine; it is all vocal; there are no instruments, and +no organ; and as women are not allowed to sing in churches, boys are +trained to perform their parts. + +"`Altogether,' Cousin Giles says, `there is very little difference in +the main features between the ceremonies of the Greek and Romish +Churches. Both are intended to attract the senses, to please the +vulgar, and to deceive the credulous, and neither can have any effect in +changing the heart.' + +"But it is time that I should bring my long letter to a conclusion. +Much of the above information was given me by a German gentleman +speaking English whom we met at Chollet's table-d'hote. I have before +said that we like the Russians; I mean the peasantry. When I spoke of +the existence of thieves in Saint Petersburg or Moscow, I do not suppose +that there are more thieves in Saint Petersburg or Moscow than in any +other of the capitals of Europe. Many of the peasants are fine-looking +men, though generally, from bad feeding, they have not the stamina of +Englishmen. Of one thing I am certain, that if one Spaniard can lick +two Portuguese, and one Englishman can lick all three, one Englishman +can lick three Russians with a big boy to help them. Still I hope that +we shall not have to go to war with them again. Poor fellows! The +Russian soldiers had not a grain of spite or ill-feeling against us. +They were driven on to the attack, and worked up by all sorts of +falsehoods, and a plentiful administration of vodka, to commit the +atrocities of which some of them were guilty. + +"We are preparing to leave Moscow. Cousin Giles and Harry have gone to +get the tiresome passport business arranged with Mr Allwick, and as I +have sprained my ankle, I remained to write to you. We shall be very +sorry to part with our interpreter; he has contributed very much to the +pleasure of our visit to this city. Through his means we have seen and +understood much more than we could otherwise possibly have done about +the place and the people. We have no satisfactory news about poor +Saveleffs affairs. The Count has promised to allow him to remain among +his people as long as he wishes, and to protect him to the utmost of his +power; but he owns that that power is likely to extend a very little +way. He says that he will spare no expense, if bribery is likely to +effect the object. He thinks, however, that if the true state of the +case could be laid before the Emperor, the poor fellow's cause might be +gained, but the difficulty is to let the Emperor know the truth. We +cannot help fancying that we saw poor Saveleffs old father and mother +among the exiles starting for Siberia. Poor fellow! It is very sad. +He does not despair, and yet he has very little hope of happiness in +this world. Even now, if the police find him out, he will not be +allowed to remain very long in quiet. + +"To-morrow we are off by the railway for Saint Petersburg. + +"Your affectionate son-- + +"Fred Markham." + + + +CHAPTER TWENTY. + + Last Letter from Fred Markham to his Mother--Return to Saint + Petersburg--Ceremony at the Kazan Church--Picnic into Finland--Visit + to Peteroff--The Palace of the Czar--Villas of Peter the Great and + Catherine--Beautiful Fountain--Leave Saint Petersburg--Cronstadt-- + Voyage down the Baltic--Copenhagen--Journey from Copenhagen to + Hamburg--Conclusion. + +"Hamburg, 20th October, 1856. + +"My own dear mother,--Here we are within two days' paddling of England, +and we hope within a week to be with you. In the meantime I will give +you an idea of what we have done since I last wrote from Moscow. We +journeyed back from that wondrous city with hundreds of other mortals +returning from the coronation fetes, and took up our old quarters at the +Gostiniza Benson. We looked in the next morning at the Kazan church, +which we had not before seen. The columns which support the roof are of +grey and red granite, and their bases and capitals are gilt; there are +long rows of them in each cross. Banners, tattered, blackened, and +pierced by many a bullet, taken from the enemies of Russia, hang from +the walls. Some ceremony was going forward. A fat, cunning Shylock, in +spectacles, sat at a counter just inside the entrance, and sold +wax-tapers to men and women, old and young, bearded officers and thin +striplings. The votaries then advanced and bowed and crossed +themselves. Some were so devout as to kneel down and kiss the horribly +dirty floor, on which beggars were spitting. Harry and I felt much +inclined to kick over one young fellow so employed close to us, and who +looked as if he ought to have known better. Having genuflected to their +heart's content, they advanced to the altar, and stuck their tapers into +a frame on a huge candlestick placed before some saint or other. One +saintship, who appeared to be a great favourite, had got his candlestick +inconveniently full, but an old soldier--evidently in charge of the +altar, and to whom some votaries presented their tapers--while +pretending to stick in one took the opportunity to slip out four or five +others, so that there was always room for more. I suspect the old +soldier and Shylock were in league with each other, and that the same +tapers did duty many times. I am grateful that I was not brought up in +the Greek Church. Cousin Giles says we ought to be thankful that we are +Englishmen and Protestants. + +"The Monday before we left, some friends invited us to a picnic in +Finland, the borders of which are distant only a fair drive from Saint +Petersburg. We started early and drove in a northerly direction past a +number of wooden villas of every conceivable Swiss-cottage style, very +picturesque and very damp, of trees and canals and ponds, to the village +of Mourina, fifteen versts off, where our friends have a villa. The +property belongs to Prince Woronzoff, who was brought up in England; but +instead of following the example of our good landlords, he imitates the +bad ones, and allows his cottages to get into a very tumble-down +condition. They are built of wood, so the lower part becomes rotten, +and the rest sinks. Were they placed on foundations of stone, they +would last far longer. They now offer no unfit epitome of the state of +Russia. Our friend's villa was very pretty, with all sorts of +Chinese-looking ins-and-outs, verandahs, and passages. There was a +gauze covering to the verandah, which effectually kept out the flies and +moths, and other teasing things. A stream of water ran at the foot of +the garden, and close to it was built a vapour-bath, and a +dressing-house for a plunge-bath. After breakfast, a carriage and +several little country carts--telegas they are called--came to the door +to take us to our destination. The carts were drawn by one horse in the +shafts and another in the left side, with traces secured partly to the +wheels and partly to a rough bar of birchwood fastened across the cart. +They are in shape like boats with stem and stern cut off, and the ribs +outside instead of in. Each holds two persons seated on horse-cloths +and sheepskins, with their feet in straw. Cousin Giles called the bar +to which the traces were fastened, a sprit-sail yard. The drivers were +boys, who sat in front of the carts. Off we rattled down a steep hill, +and through a bog, and were quickly in Finland. The boys tried to keep +ahead of each other, and galloped down hills and up hills, and along the +road at a tremendous pace;--it was rare fun. The road was sometimes +sandy, sometimes gravelly, and always undulating. After a little time +we had some pretty views, with a chain of lakes on either side of us. +Then we reached the village of Toxova, with its Lutheran church and +parsonage, situated on a wooded hill above the lakes. We stopped at the +village, and went to a cottage with a large room with a table and +benches, and a verandah looking down on the lakes. Here we hired a +samovar, and spread our eatables. The chief dish was a salmon-pie, and +a capital dish it is. A whole salmon (or another fish may be used) is +rolled up in a coat of chopped eggs, and rice or other grain, first well +boiled, and then covered with a coating of bread-dough, which is next +baked like a loaf of bread. It is eaten cold. After dinner we walked +through woods of birch and elder to a hill with a cross on it, above a +lake, whence we got a view of Saint Petersburg. + +"We altogether had one of the pleasantest days we passed in Russia, for +though cities and fine sights are very interesting, there is nothing +like the country after all, in my opinion. Another day we received an +invitation from some friends to visit them at Peteroff, a village formed +by a collection of villas and palaces on the south side of the Gulf of +Finland. It can be reached by land, but we preferred going there by +water. Steamers run between it and Saint Petersburg several times in +the day. Crossing the bridge, we embarked in a boat, built in the +far-off Clyde, and now called by a Russian name. The passage between +the shallows all the way is very narrow, and the bar at the mouth of the +Neva has often not more than ten feet of water on it. I have already in +our journal described Peteroff, with its golden domes and spires peeping +out among the trees just overlooking Cronstadt, so I will say no more +about it. At the end of a good landing-pier we found our friend's +carriage waiting, and in it, over a good road, among groves of birch and +lime-trees, we were driven to his very picturesque summer residence. It +was built of logs, and weather-boarded, with a verandah running all +round it, and at each angle is a wide space roofed over, so that shade +and air can at all times of the day be procured. After an early dinner, +we drove to the chateau of the Emperor, built by Peter the Great. It is +a curious, long, half Oriental, half Italian-looking edifice, with a +gilt roof, and white and yellow walls. On one side are gardens, laid +out with long gravel walks, grass-plats, and trees; on the other the +high road. Between the road and the sea are the smaller and still more +ancient royal villas of Marly and Montplaisir, in the midst of gardens +full of the strangest collection of gilt statues and urns, and +flowerpots and marble fountains, and water-spouts and tanks, and seats +and rows of trees, and flower-beds all of one colour, the whole having a +very glittering, dazzling effect. From one of the fountains the water +comes down an inclined plane, and we were told that the Emperor Nicholas +used to amuse himself by making a party of the cadets of the military +schools defend the top of the waterfall, while others had to storm it, +climbing up the inclined plane, over which the water was rushing down. +It might be very good fun on a hot day, with the thermometer at 90 +degrees, but very disagreeable when a sharp north-easter was blowing. + +"The villa of Marly was built by Peter, and here he used to go to watch +the manoeuvres of his newly-formed fleet in the gulf below him. Here, +also, he died; his bed and his night-cap are shown. Indeed, nothing has +been altered in the cottage since he passed away from the scene where +his wonderfully active mind had done so much. The cottage of +Montplaisir was built by the Empress Catherine, and in it was a +kitchen-range, where she used to amuse herself by cooking dinners for +herself and any of her more honoured guests. In the dining-room was a +table, the centre of which could be lowered and raised, so as to remove +and replace the dishes without the presence of waiters. In the gardens +is also a large bathing-house, of truly imperial dimensions. These +cottages are interesting for their historical recollections; but by far +the most beautiful object in the gardens is a fountain, which throws up +water exactly in the shape of a Gothic cathedral. As the sun shone on +the sparkling jets, the effect was excellent. + +"We spent a most pleasant evening at our friend's house, and returned +the next day to Saint Petersburg. We saw many other things in Saint +Petersburg which I will tell you about when we meet. We went down to +Cronstadt, to get on board the steamer which was to take us to +Copenhagen. The town consists of several very broad streets and places, +but not many houses within the fortifications, and quays, and a harbour +full of shipping. + +"We were not sorry to get out of Russia. Cousin Giles says that he felt +as if there was something in the air which prevented him breathing +freely. We liked the Russians very well. They do not live exclusively +on train-oil, ill-smelling fish, and black bread, as we fancied before +we went there; but their greatest admirers cannot call them a thoroughly +civilised people. + +"I wish that I could tell you something about their language. It sounds +very soft and musical, but is very difficult to speak, and the +characters make all one's previous knowledge of an alphabet utterly +useless. We left Cronstadt on the afternoon of Wednesday, where neither +was our baggage nor were we examined; indeed, half-a-dozen people might +have smuggled themselves on board, and got away without difficulty. We +had fine weather all the way down the Baltic, and came off a neat little +village five miles from Copenhagen, on the afternoon of Sunday. Here we +landed in a pilot-boat, with some Danish gentlemen, who were very civil +to us, and by their aid we engaged a char-a-banc, and drove to +Copenhagen the same evening. We spent five very pleasant days there, +seeing numerous objects of interest. I will not attempt to describe +them now. Cousin Giles says I must write a book about Denmark another +year. It is a very interesting country, to Englishmen especially. We +left Copenhagen in the afternoon, and the same evening reached by +railway the town of Kirsoor, about sixty miles to the south of it. Here +we embarked on board a steamer, which carried us to Kiel, where the +English fleet were stationed last winter. Here another railway conveyed +us, in a little more than three hours, to Hamburg. And now our foreign +travels are almost over for this year. We have enjoyed them very much, +as we hope you have our letters, and that you will allow us to accept +Cousin Giles' invitation to accompany him next summer to some other +country. + +"Your affectionate son-- + +"Frederick Markham." + +THE END. + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Fred Markham in Russia, by W. H. G. 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