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diff --git a/21414.txt b/21414.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1bd5f40 --- /dev/null +++ b/21414.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4208 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Culinary Herbs: Their Cultivation +Harvesting Curing and Uses, by M. G. Kains + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Culinary Herbs: Their Cultivation Harvesting Curing and Uses + +Author: M. G. Kains + +Release Date: May 11, 2007 [EBook #21414] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CULINARY HERBS *** + + + + +Produced by Tom Roch, Janet Blenkinship and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images produced by Core Historical +Literature in Agriculture (CHLA), Cornell University) + + + + + + + + + + CULINARY HERBS + + Their Cultivation, Harvesting, Curing and Uses + + + By + + M. G. KAINS + + _Associate Editor American Agriculturist_ + + + + + Ah, Zephyrus! art here, and Flora too! + Ye tender bibbers of the rain and dew, + Young playmates of the rose and daffodil, + Be careful, ere ye enter in, to fill + Your baskets high + With fennel green, and balm, and golden pines, + Savory, latter-mint, and columbines, + Cool parsley, basil sweet, and sunny thyme; + Yea, every flower and leaf of every clime, + All gather'd in the dewy morn: hie + Away! fly, fly! + + --_Keats, "Endymion"_ + +[Illustration: Herbs and Children, a Happy Harmony] + + + + + NEW YORK + ORANGE JUDD COMPANY + + LONDON + KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH, TRUeBNER & CO., Limited + 1912 + + Copyright, 1912 + ORANGE JUDD COMPANY + _All Rights Reserved_ + + ENTERED AT STATIONERS' HALL, LONDON, ENGLAND + + Printed in U. S. A. + + + * * * * * + + +PREFACE + + +A small boy who wanted to make a good impression once took his little +sweetheart to an ice cream parlor. After he had vainly searched the list +of edibles for something within his means, he whispered to the waiter, +"Say, Mister, what you got that looks tony an' tastes nice for nineteen +cents?" + +This is precisely the predicament in which many thousand people are +today. Like the boy, they have skinny purses, voracious appetites and +mighty yearnings to make the best possible impression within their +means. Perhaps having been "invited out," they learn by actual +demonstration that the herbs are culinary magicians which convert cheap +cuts and "scraps" into toothsome dainties. They are thus aroused to the +fact that by using herbs they can afford to play host and hostess to a +larger number of hungry and envious friends than ever before. + +Maybe it is mainly due to these yearnings and to the memories of +mother's and grandmother's famous dishes that so many inquiries +concerning the propagation, cultivation, curing and uses of culinary +herbs are asked of authorities on gardening and cookery; and maybe it is +because no one has really loved the herbs enough to publish a book on +the subject. That herbs are easy to grow I can abundantly attest, for I +have grown them all. I can also bear ample witness to the fact that they +reduce the cost of high living, if by that phrase is meant pleasing the +palate without offending the purse. + +For instance, a few days ago a friend paid twenty cents for soup beef, +and five cents for "soup greens." The addition of salt, pepper and other +ingredients brought the initial cost up to twenty-nine cents. This made +enough soup for ten or twelve liberal servings. The lean meat removed +from the soup was minced and mixed with not more than ten cents' worth +of diced potatoes, stale bread crumbs, milk, seasoning and herbs before +being baked as a supper dish for five people, who by their bland smiles +and "scotch plates" attested that the viands both looked "tony" and +tasted nice. + +I am glad to acknowledge my thanks to Mr. N. R. Graves of Rochester, N. +Y., and Prof. R. L. Watts of the Pennsylvania State Agricultural +College, for the photographic illustrations, and to Mr. B. F. +Williamson, the Orange Judd Co.'s artist, for the pen and ink drawings +which add so much to the value, attractiveness and interest of these +pages. + +If this book shall instill or awaken in its readers the wholesome though +"cupboard" love that the culinary herbs deserve both as permanent +residents of the garden and as masters of the kitchen, it will have +accomplished the object for which it was written. + + M. G. KAINS. + New York, 1912. + + + + +CONTENTS + Page + + Preface v + + A Dinner of Herbs 7 + + Culinary Herbs Defined 11 + + History 12 + + Production of New Varieties 15 + + Status and Uses 19 + + Notable Instance of Uses 21 + + Methods of Curing 22 + + Drying and Storing 25 + + Herbs as Garnishes 30 + + Propagation, Seeds 32 + Cuttings 34 + Layers 36 + Division 37 + + Transplanting 39 + + Implements 41 + + Location of Herb Garden 44 + + The Soil and Its Preparation 45 + + Cultivation 47 + + Double Cropping 48 + + Herb Relationships 49 + + The Herb List: + Angelica 55 + Anise 59 + Balm 63 + Basil 65 + Borage 71 + Caraway 73 + Catnip 77 + Chervil 79 + Chives 80 + Clary 81 + Coriander 82 + Cumin 84 + Dill 87 + Fennel 89 + Finocchio 93 + Fennel Flower 94 + Hoarhound 95 + Hyssop 96 + Lavender 97 + Lovage 99 + Marigold 100 + Marjoram 101 + Mint 105 + Parsley 109 + Pennyroyal 119 + Peppermint 119 + Rosemary 120 + Rue 122 + Sage 125 + Samphire 129 + Savory, Summer 131 + Savory, Winter 132 + Southernwood 133 + Tansy 134 + Tarragon 134 + Thyme 137 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + + Page + + Herbs and Children, a Happy Harmony _Frontispiece_ + + Spading Fork 1 + + Barrel Culture of Herbs 2 + + Transplanting Board and Dibble 5 + + Assortment of Favorite Weeders 8 + + Popular Adjustable Row Marker 10 + + Popular Spades 13 + + Lath Screen for Shading Beds 16 + + Harvesting Thyme Grown on a Commercial Scale 18 + + Garden Hoes of Various Styles 20 + + Dried Herbs in Paper and Tin 22 + + Herb Solution Bottle 24 + + Paper Sacks of Dried Herbs for Home Use 26 + + Hand Cultivator and Scarifier 27 + + Flat of Seedlings Ready to Be Transplanted 32 + + Glass Covered Propagating Box 34 + + Flower Pot Propagating Bed 35 + + Holt's Mammoth and Common Sage 38 + + Marker for Hotbeds and Cold Frames 39 + + Leading Forms of Trowels 40 + + Wooden Dibbles 43 + + Combination Hand Plow 45 + + Surface Paring Cultivator 47 + + Thinning Scheme for Harvesting 48 + + Center Row Hand Cultivator 50 + + Hand Plow 52 + + Prophecy of Many Toothsome Dishes 56 + + Anise in Flower and in Fruit 60 + + Sweet Basil 66 + + Borage, Famous for "Cool Tankard" 70 + + Caraway for Comfits and Birthday Cakes 74 + + Catnip, Pussy's Delight 78 + + Coriander, for Old-Fashioned Candies 82 + + Dill, of Pickle Fame 86 + + Sweet Fennel 90 + + Sweet Marjoram 102 + + Mint, Best Friend of Roast Lamb 106 + + Curled Parsley 110 + + Rue, Sour Herb of Grace 124 + + Sage, The Leading Herb for Duck and Goose Dressing 126 + + Holt's Mammoth and Common Sage Leaves 129 + + Dainty Summer Savory 130 + + Tarragon, French Chef's Delight 135 + + Thyme for Sausage 137 + + + + +CULINARY HERBS + + +In these days of jaded appetites, condiments and canned goods, how +fondly we turn from the dreary monotony of the "dainty" menu to the +memory of the satisfying dishes of our mothers! What made us, like +Oliver Twist, ask for more? Were those flavors real, or was it +association and natural, youthful hunger that enticed us? Can we ever +forget them; or, what is more practical, can we again realize them? We +may find the secret and the answer in mother's garden. Let's peep in. + +The garden, as in memory we view it, is not remarkable except for its +neatness and perhaps the mixing of flowers, fruits and vegetables as we +never see them jumbled on the table. Strawberries and onions, carrots +and currants, potatoes and poppies, apples and sweet corn and many other +as strange comrades, all grow together in mother's garden in the utmost +harmony. + +[Illustration: Spading Fork] + +All these are familiar friends; but what are those plants near the +kitchen? They are "mother's sweet herbs." We have never seen them on the +table. They never played leading roles such as those of the cabbage and +the potato. They are merely members of "the cast" which performed the +small but important parts in the production of the pleasing _tout +ensemble_--soup, stew, sauce, or salad--the remembrance of which, like +that of a well-staged and well-acted drama, lingers in the memory long +after the actors are forgotten. + +[Illustration: Barrel Culture of Herbs] + +Probably no culinary plants have during the last 50 years been so +neglected. Especially during the "ready-to-serve" food campaign of the +closed quarter century did they suffer most. But they are again coming +into their own. Few plants are so easily cultivated and prepared for +use. With the exception of the onion, none may be so effectively +employed and none may so completely transform the "left-over" as to +tempt an otherwise balky appetite to indulge in a second serving without +being urged to perform the homely duty of "eating it to save it." +Indeed, sweet herbs are, or should be the boon of the housewife, since +they make for both pleasure and economy. The soup may be made of the +most wholesome, nutritious and even costly materials; the fish may be +boiled or baked to perfection; the joint or the roast and the salad may +be otherwise faultless, but if they lack flavor they will surely fail +in their mission, and none of the neighbors will plot to steal the cook, +as they otherwise might did she merit the reputation that she otherwise +might, by using culinary herbs. + +This doleful condition may be prevented and the cook enjoy an enviable +esteem by the judicious use of herbs, singly or in combination. It is +greatly to be regretted that the uses of these humble plants, which seem +to fall lower than the dignity of the title "vegetable," should be so +little understood by intelligent American housewives. + +In the flavoring of prepared dishes we Americans--people, as the French +say, "of one sauce"--might well learn a lesson from the example of the +English matron who usually considers her kitchen incomplete without a +dozen or more sweet herbs, either powdered, or in decoction, or +preserved in both ways. A glance into a French or a German culinary +department would probably show more than a score; but a careful search +in an American kitchen would rarely reveal as many as half a dozen, and +in the great majority probably only parsley and sage would be brought to +light. Yet these humble plants possess the power of rendering even +unpalatable and insipid dishes piquant and appetizing, and this, too, at +a surprisingly low cost. Indeed, most of them may be grown in an +out-of-the-way corner of the garden, or if no garden be available, in a +box of soil upon a sunny windowsill--a method adopted by many foreigners +living in tenement houses in New York and Jersey City. Certainly they +may be made to add to the pleasure of living and, as Solomon declares, +"better is a dinner of herbs where love is, than a stalled ox with +contention." + +It is to be regretted that the moving picture show and the soda water +fountain have such an influence in breaking up old-fashioned family +evenings at home when everyone gathered around the evening lamp to enjoy +homemade dainties. In those good old days the young man was expected to +become acquainted with the young woman in the home. The girl took pride +in serving solid and liquid culinary goodies of her own construction. +Her mother, her all-sufficient guide, mapped out the sure, safe, and +orthodox highway to a man's heart and saw to it that she learned how to +play her cards with skill and precision. Those were the days when a +larger proportion "lived happy ever after" than in modern times, when +recreation and refreshment are sought more frequently outside than +inside the walls of home. + +But it is not too late to learn the good old ways over again and enjoy +the good old culinary dainties. Whoever relishes the summer cups that +cheer but do not inebriate may add considerably to his enjoyment by +using some of the sweet herbs. Spearmint adds to lemonade the pleasing +pungency it as readily imparts to a less harmful but more notorious +beverage. The blue or pink flowers of borage have long been famous for +the same purpose, though they are perhaps oftener added to a mixture of +honey and water, to grape juice, raspberry vinegar or strawberry acid. +All that is needed is an awakened desire to re-establish home comforts +and customs, then a little later experimentation will soon fix the herb +habit. + +[Illustration: Transplanting Board and Dibble] + +The list of home confections may be very pleasingly extended by candying +the aromatic roots of lovage, and thus raising up a rival to the candied +ginger said to be imported from the Orient. If anyone likes coriander +and caraway--I confess that I don't--he can sugar the seeds to make +those little "comfits," the candies of our childhood which our mothers +tried to make us think we liked to crunch either separately or sprinkled +on our birthday cakes. Those were before the days when somebody's name +was "stamped on every piece" to aid digestion. Can we ever forget the +picnic when we had certain kinds of sandwiches? Our mothers minced sweet +fennel, the tender leaves of sage, marjoram or several other herbs, +mixed them with cream cheese, and spread a layer between two thin slices +of bread. Perhaps it was the swimming, or the three-legged racing, or +the swinging, or all put together, that put a razor edge on our +appetites and made us relish those sandwiches more than was perhaps +polite; but will we not, all of us who ate them, stand ready to dispute +with all comers that it was the flavors that made us forget "our +manners"? + +But sweet herbs may be made to serve another pleasing, an aesthetic +purpose. Many of them may be used for ornament. A bouquet of the pale +pink blossoms of thyme and the delicate flowers of marjoram, the +fragrant sprigs of lemon balm mixed with the bright yellow umbels of +sweet fennel, the finely divided leaves of rue and the long glassy ones +of bergamot, is not only novel in appearance but in odor. In sweetness +it excels even sweet peas and roses. Mixed with the brilliant red +berries of barberry and multiflora rose, and the dark-green branches of +the hardy thyme, which continues fresh and sweet through the year, a +handsome and lasting bouquet may be made for a midwinter table +decoration, a fragrant reminder of Shakespeare's lines in "A Winter's +Tale": + + "Here's flowers for you; + Hot lavender, mints, savory, marjoram; + The marigold, that goes to bed wi' the sun + And with him rises weeping." + +The rare aroma of sweet marjoram reminds so many city people of their +mother's and their grandmother's country gardens, that countless muslin +bags of the dried leaves sent to town ostensibly for stuffing poultry +never reach the kitchen at all, but are accorded more honored places in +the living room. They are placed in the sunlight of a bay window where +Old Sol may coax forth their prisoned odors and perfume the air with +memories of childhood summers on the farm. + +Other memories cling to the delicate little lavender, not so much +because the owner of a well-filled linen closet perfumed her spotless +hoard with its fragrant flowers, but because of more tender +remembrances. Would any country wedding chest be complete without its +little silk bags filled with dried lavender buds and blooms to add the +finishing touch of romance to the dainty trousseau of linen and lace? +What can recall the bridal year so surely as this same kindly lavender? + + + + +A DINNER OF HERBS + + +In an article published in _American Agriculturist_, Dora M. Morrell +says: "There is an inference that a dinner of herbs is rather a poor +thing, one not to be chosen as a pleasure. Perhaps it might be if it +came daily, but, for once in a while, try this which I am going to tell +you. + +"To prepare a dinner of herbs in its best estate you should have a bed +of seasonings such as our grandmothers had in their gardens, rows of +sage, of spicy mint, sweet marjoram, summer savory, fragrant thyme, +tarragon, chives and parsley. To these we may add, if we take herbs in +the Scriptural sense, nasturtium, and that toothsome esculent, the +onion, as well as lettuce. If you wish a dinner of herbs and have not +the fresh, the dried will serve, but parsley and mint you can get at +most times in the markets, or in country gardens, where they often grow +wild. + +"Do you know, my sister housewife, that if you were to have a barrel +sawed in half, filled with good soil, some holes made in the side and +then placed the prepared half barrel in the sun, you could have an herb +garden of your own the year through, even if you live in a city flat? In +the holes at the sides you can plant parsley, and it will grow to cover +the barrel, so that you have a bank of green to look upon. On the top of +the half barrel plant your mint, sage, thyme and tarragon. Thyme is so +pleasing a plant in appearance and fragrance that you may acceptably +give it a place among those you have in your window for ornament. + +[Illustration: Assortment of Favorite Weeders] + +"The Belgians make a parsley soup that might begin your dinner, or +rather your luncheon. For the soup, thicken flour and butter together as +for drawn butter sauce, and when properly cooked thin to soup +consistency with milk. Flavor with onion juice, salt and pepper. Just +before serving add enough parsley cut in tiny bits to color the soup +green. Serve croutons with this. + +"For the next course choose an omelette with fine herbs. Any cookbook +will give the directions for making the omelette, and all that will be +necessary more than the book directs is to have added to it minced +thyme, tarragon and chives before folding, or they may be stirred into +the omelette before cooking. + +"Instead of an omelette you may have eggs stuffed with fine herbs and +served in cream sauce. Cut hard-boiled eggs in half the long way and +remove the yolks. Mash and season these, adding the herbs, as finely +minced as possible. Shape again like yolks and return to the whites. +Cover with a hot cream sauce and serve before it cools. Both of these +dishes may be garnished with shredded parsley over the top. + +"With this serve a dish of potatoes scalloped with onion. Prepare by +placing in alternate layers the two vegetables; season well with salt, +pepper and butter, and then add milk even with the top layer. This dish +is quite hearty and makes a good supper dish of itself. + +"Of course you will not have a meal of this kind without salad. For this +try a mixture of nasturtium leaves and blossoms, tarragon, chives, mint, +thyme and the small leaves of the lettuce, adding any other green leaves +of the spicy kind which you find to taste good. Then dress these with a +simple oil and vinegar dressing, omitting sugar, mustard or any such +flavoring, for there is spice enough in the leaves themselves. + +"Pass with these, if you will, sandwiches made with lettuce or +nasturtium dressed with mayonnaise. You may make quite a different thing +of them by adding minced chives or tarragon, or thyme, to the +mayonnaise. The French are very partial to this manner of compounding +new sauces from the base of the old one. After you do it a few times you +also will find it worth while. + +[Illustration: Popular Adjustable Row Marker] + +"When it comes to a dessert I am afraid you will have to go outside of +herbs. You can take a cream cheese and work into it with a silver knife +any of these herbs, or any two of them that agree with it well, and +serve it with toasted crackers, or you can toast your crackers with +common cheese, grating above it sage and thyme." + +Whether this "dinner of herbs" appeals to the reader or not, I venture +to say that no housewife who has ever stuffed a Thanksgiving turkey, a +Christmas goose or ducks or chickens with home-grown, home-prepared +herbs, either fresh or dried, will ever after be willing to buy the +paper packages or tin cans of semi-inodorous, prehistoric dust which +masquerades equally well as "fresh" sage, summer savory, thyme or +something else, the only apparent difference being the label. + +To learn to value herbs at their true worth one should grow them. Then +every visitor to the garden will be reminded of some quotation from the +Bible, or Shakespeare or some other repository of interesting thoughts; +for since herbs have been loved as long as the race has lived on the +earth, literature is full of references to facts and fancies concerning +them. Thus the herb garden will become the nucleus around which cluster +hoary legends, gems of verse and lilts of song, and where one almost +stoops to remove his shoes, for + + "The wisdom of the ages + Blooms anew among the sages." + + + + +CULINARY HERBS DEFINED + + +It may be said that sweet or culinary herbs are those annual, biennial +or perennial plants whose green parts, tender roots or ripe seeds have +an aromatic flavor and fragrance, due either to a volatile oil or to +other chemically named substances peculiar to the individual species. +Since many of them have pleasing odors they have been called sweet, and +since they have been long used in cookery to add their characteristic +flavors to soups, stews, dressings, sauces and salads, they are +popularly called culinary. This last designation is less happy than the +former, since many other herbs, such as cabbage, spinach, kale, +dandelion and collards, are also culinary herbs. These vegetables are, +however, probably more widely known as potherbs or greens. + + +HISTORY + +It seems probable that many of the flavoring herbs now in use were +similarly employed before the erection of the pyramids and also that +many then popular no longer appear in modern lists of esculents. Of +course, this statement is based largely upon imperfect records, perhaps, +in many cases only hints more or less doubtful as to the various +species. But it seems safe to conclude that a goodly number of the herbs +discussed in this volume, especially those said to be natives of the +Mediterranean region, overhung and perfumed the cradle of the human race +in the Orient and marked the footsteps of our rude progenitors as they +strode more and more sturdily toward the horizon of promise. This idea +seems to gain support also from the fact that certain Eastern peoples, +whom modern civilization declares to have uneducated tastes, still +employ many herbs which have dropped by the wayside of progress, or like +the caraway and the redoubtable "pusley," an anciently popular potherb, +are but known in western lands as troublesome weeds. + +Relying upon Biblical records alone, several herbs were highly esteemed +prior to our era; in the gospels of Matthew and Luke reference is made +to tithes of mint, anise, rue, cummin and other "herbs"; and, more than +700 years previously, Isaiah speaks of the sowing and threshing of +cummin which, since the same passage (Isaiah xxviii, 25) also speaks of +"fitches" (vetches), wheat, barley and "rie" (rye), seems then to have +been a valued crop. + +[Illustration: Popular Spades] + +The development of the herb crops contrasts strongly with that of the +other crops to which reference has just been made. Whereas these latter +have continued to be staples, and to judge by their behavior during the +last century may be considered to have improved in quality and yield +since that ancient time, the former have dropped to the most subordinate +position of all food plants. They have lost in number of species, and +have shown less improvement than perhaps any other groups of plants +cultivated for economic purposes. During the century just closed only +one species, parsley, may be said to have developed more than an +occasional improved variety. And even during this period the list of +species seems to have been somewhat curtailed--tansy, hyssop, horehound, +rue and several others being considered of too pronounced and even +unpleasant flavor to suit cultivated palates. + +With the exception of these few species, the loss of which seems not to +be serious, this absence of improvement is to be regretted, because with +improved quality would come increased consumption and consequent +beneficial results in the appetizing flavor of the foods to which herbs +are added. But greatly improved varieties of most species can hardly be +expected until a just appreciation has been awakened in individual +cultivators, who, probably in a majority of cases, will be lovers of +plants rather than men who earn their living by market gardening. + +Until the public better appreciates the culinary herbs there will be a +comparatively small commercial demand; until the demand is sufficient to +make growing herbs profitable upon an extensive scale, market gardeners +will devote their land to crops which are sure to pay well; hence the +opportunity to grow herbs as an adjunct to gardening is the most likely +way that they can be made profitable. And yet there is still another; +namely, growing them for sale in the various prepared forms and selling +them in glass or tin receptacles in the neighborhood or by advertising +in the household magazines. There surely is a market, and a profitable +one if rightly managed. And with right management and profit is to come +desire to have improved varieties. Such varieties can be developed at +least as readily as the wonderful modern chrysanthemum has been +developed from an insignificant little wild flower not half as +interesting or promising originally as our common oxeye daisy, a +well-known field weed. + +Not the least object of this volume is, therefore, to arouse just +appreciation of the opportunities awaiting the herb grower. Besides the +very large and increasing number of people who take pleasure in the +growing of attractive flowering and foliage plants, fine vegetables and +choice fruits, there are many who would find positive delight in the +breeding of plants for improvement--the origination of new +varieties--and who would devote much of their leisure time to this +work--make it a hobby--did they know the simple underlying principles. +For their benefit, therefore, the following paragraphs are given. + + +PRODUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES + +Besides the gratification that always accompanies the growing of plants, +there is in plant breeding the promise that the progeny will in some way +be better than the parent, and there is the certainty that when a stable +variety of undoubted merit has been produced it can be sold to an +enterprising seedsman for general distribution. In this way the amateur +may become a public benefactor, reap the just reward of his labors and +keep his memory green! + +The production of new varieties of plants is a much simpler process than +is commonly supposed. It consists far more in selecting and propagating +the best specimens than in any so-called "breeding." With the majority +of the herbs this is the most likely direction in which to seek success. + +Suppose we have sown a packet of parsley seed and we have five thousand +seedlings. Among these a lot will be so weak that we will naturally +pass them by when we are choosing plantlets to put in our garden beds. +Here is the first and simplest kind of selection. By this means, and by +not having space for a great number of plants in the garden, we probably +get rid of 80 per cent of the seedlings--almost surely the least +desirable ones. + +[Illustration: Lath Screen for Shading Beds] + +Suppose we have transplanted 1,000 seedlings where they are to grow and +produce leaves for sale or home use. Among these, provided the seed has +been good and true, at least 90 per cent will be about alike in +appearance, productivity and otherwise. The remaining plants may show +variations so striking as to attract attention. Some may be tall and +scraggly, some may be small and puny; others may be light green, still +others dark green; and so on. But there may be one or two plants that +stand out conspicuously as the best of the whole lot. These are the ones +to mark with a stake so they will not be molested when the crop is being +gathered and so they will attain their fullest development. + +These best plants, and only these, should then be chosen as the seed +bearers. No others should be allowed even to produce flowers. When the +seed has ripened, that from each plant should be kept separate during +the curing process described elsewhere. And when spring comes again, +each lot of seed should be sown by itself. When the seedlings are +transplanted, they should be kept apart and labeled No. 1, No. 2, No. 3, +etc., so the progeny of each parent plant can be known and its history +kept. + +The process of selecting the seedlings the second year is the same as in +the first; the best are given preference, when being transplanted. In +the beds all sorts of variations even more pronounced than the first +year may be expected. The effort with the seedlings derived from each +parent plant should be to find the plants that most closely resemble +their own parents, and to manage these just as the parents were managed. +No other should be allowed to flower. + +This process is to be continued from year to year. If the selection is +carefully made, the grower will soon rejoice, because he will observe a +larger and a larger number of plants approaching the type of plant he +has been selecting for. In time practically the whole plantation will be +coming "true to type," and he will have developed a new variety. If his +ideal is such as to appeal to the practical man--the man who grows +parsley for money--and if the variety is superior to varieties already +grown, the originator will have no difficulty in disposing of his stock +of seed and plants, if he so desires, to a seedsman, who will gladly pay +a round price in order to have exclusive control of the "new creation." +Or he may contract with a seedsman to grow seed of the new variety for +sale to the trade. + +[Illustration: Harvesting Thyme Grown on a Commercial Scale] + +It may be said, further, that new varieties may be produced by placing +the pollen from the flowers of one plant upon the pistils in the +flowers of another and then covering the plant with fine gauze to keep +insects out. With the herbs, however, this method seems hardly worth +while, because the flowers are as a rule very small and the work +necessarily finicky, and because there are already so few varieties of +most species that the operation may be left to the activities of +insects. It is for this reason, however, that none but the choicest +plants should be allowed to bloom, so none but desirable pollen may +reach and fertilize the flowers of the plants to be used as seed +producers. + + +STATUS AND USES + +Some readers of a statistical turn of mind may be disappointed to learn +that figures as to the value of the annual crops of individual herbs, +the acreage devoted to each, the average cost, yield and profit an acre, +etc., are not obtainable and that the only way of determining the +approximate standing of the various species is the apparent demand for +each in the large markets and stores. + +Unquestionably the greatest call is for parsley, which is used in +restaurants and hotels more extensively as a garnish than any other +herb. In this capacity it ranks about equal with watercress and lettuce, +which both find their chief uses as salads. As a flavoring agent it is +probably less used than sage, but more than any of the other herbs. It +is chiefly employed in dressings with mild meats such as chicken, +turkey, venison, veal, with baked fish; and for soups, stews, and +sauces, especially those used with boiled meats, fish and fricassees of +the meats mentioned. Thus it has a wider application than any other of +the culinary herbs. + +Sage, which is a strongly flavored plant, is used chiefly with such fat +meats as pork, goose, duck, and various kinds of game. Large quantities +are mixed with sausage meat and, in some countries, with certain kinds +of cheese. Throughout the United States it is probably the most +frequently called into requisition of all herbs, probably outranking any +two of the others, with the exception of parsley. + +[Illustration: Garden Hoes of Various Styles] + +Thyme and savory stand about equal, and are chiefly used like parsley, +though both, especially the former, are used in certain kinds of +sausage. Marjoram, which is similarly employed, comes next, then follow +balm, fennel, and basil. These milder herbs are often mixed for much the +same reason that certain simple perfumes are blended--to produce a new +odor--combinations of herbs resulting in a new compound flavor. Such +compounds are utilized in the same way that the elementary herbs are. + +In classes by themselves are tarragon and spearmint, the former of which +is chiefly used as a decoction in the flavoring of fish sauces, and the +latter as the universal dressing with spring lamb. Mint has also a more +convivial use, but this seems more the province of the W. C. T. U. than +of this book to discuss. + +Dill is probably the most important of the herbs whose seeds, rather +than their leaves, are used in flavoring food other than confectionery. +It plays its chief role in the pickle barrel. Immense quantities of +cucumber pickles flavored principally with dill are used in the +restaurants of the larger cities and also by families, the foreign-born +citizens and their descendants being the chief consumers. The demand for +these pickles is met by the leading pickle manufacturers who prepare +special brands, generally according to German recipes, and sell them to +the delicatessen and the grocery stores. If they were to rely upon me +for business, they would soon go bankrupt. To my palate the dill pickle +appeals as almost the acme of disagreeableness. + + +NOTABLE INSTANCE OF USES + +The flavors of the various herbs cover a wide range, commencing with +fennel and ending with sage, and are capable of wide application. In one +case which came under my observation, the cook made a celery-flavored +stew of some meat scraps. Not being wholly consumed, the surviving +debris appeared a day or two later, in company with other odds and +ends, as the chief actor in a meat pie flavored with parsley. Alas, a +left-over again! "Never mind," mused the cook; and no one who partook of +the succeeding stew discovered the lurking parsley and its overpowered +progenitor, the celery, under the effectual disguise of summer savory. +By an unforeseen circumstance the fragments remaining from this last +stew did not continue the cycle and disappear in another pie. Had this +been their fate, however, their presence could have been completely +obscured by sage. This problem in perpetual progression or culinary +homeopathy can be practiced in any kitchen. But hush, tell it not in the +dining-room! + +[Illustration: Dried Herbs in Paper and Tin] + + +METHODS OF CURING + +Culinary herbs may be divided into three groups; those whose foliage +furnishes the flavor, those whose seed is used and those few whose +roots are prepared. In the kitchen, foliage herbs are employed either +green or as decoctions or dried, each way with its special advocates, +advantages and applications. + +Green herbs, if freshly and properly gathered, are richest in flavoring +substances and when added to sauces, fricassees, stews, etc., reveal +their freshness by their particles as well as by their decidedly finer +flavor. In salads they almost entirely supplant both the dried and the +decocted herbs, since their fresh colors are pleasing to the eye and +their crispness to the palate; whereas the specks of the dried herbs +would be objectionable, and both these and the decoctions impart a +somewhat inferior flavor to such dishes. Since herbs cannot, however, +always be obtained throughout the year, unless they are grown in window +boxes, they are infused or dried. Both infusing and drying are similar +processes in themselves, but for best results they are dependent upon +the observance of a few simple rules. + +No matter in what condition or for what purpose they are to be used the +flavors of foliage herbs are invariably best in well-developed leaves +and shoots still in full vigor of growth. With respect to the plant as a +whole, these flavors are most abundant and pleasant just before the +flowers appear. And since they are generally due to essential oils, +which are quickly dissipated by heat, they are more abundant in the +morning than after the sun has reached the zenith. As a general rule, +therefore, best results with foliage herbs, especially those to be used +for drying and infusing, may be secured when the plants seem ready to +flower, the harvest being made as soon as the dew has dried and before +the day has become very warm. The leaves of parsley, however, may be +gathered as soon as they attain that deep green characteristic of the +mature leaf; and since the leaves are produced continuously for many +weeks, the mature ones may be removed every week or so, a process which +encourages the further production of foliage and postpones the +appearance of the flowering stem. + +To make good infusions the freshly gathered, clean foliage should be +liberally packed in stoppered jars, covered with the choicest vinegar, +and the jars kept closed. In a week or two the fluid will be ready for +use, but in using it, trials must be made to ascertain its strength and +the quantity necessary to use. Usually only the clear liquid is +employed; sometimes, however, as with mint, the leaves are very finely +minced before being bottled and both liquid and particles employed. + +[Illustration: Herb Solution Bottle] + +Tarragon, mint and the seed herbs, such as dill, are perhaps more often +used in ordinary cookery as infusions than otherwise. An objection to +decoctions is that the flavor of vinegar is not always desired in a +culinary preparation, and neither is that of alcohol or wine, which are +sometimes used in the same way as vinegar. + + +DRYING AND STORING + +When only a small quantity of an herb is to be dried, the old plan of +hanging loose bunches from the ceiling of a warm, dry attic or a kitchen +will answer. Better, perhaps, is the use of trays covered with clean, +stout manilla paper upon which thin layers of the leaves are spread. +These are placed either in hot sunlight or in the warm kitchen where +warm air circulates freely. They must be turned once a day until all the +moisture has been evaporated from the leaves and the softer, more +delicate parts have become crisp. Then they may be crunched and crumbled +between the hands, the stalks and the hard parts rejected and the powder +placed in air-tight glass or earthenware jars or metal cans, and stored +in a cool place. If there be the slightest trace of moisture in the +powder, it should be still further dried to insure against mold. Prior +to any drying process the cut leaves and stems should be thoroughly +washed, to get rid of any trace of dirt. Before being dried as noted +above, the water should all be allowed to evaporate. Evaporation may be +hastened by exposing the herbs to a breeze in a shallow, loose basket, a +wire tray or upon a table. While damp there is little danger of their +being blown away. As they dry, however, the current of air should be +more gentle. + +The practice of storing powdered herbs in paper or pasteboard packages +is bad, since the delicate oils readily diffuse through the paper and +sooner or later the material becomes as valueless for flavoring +purposes as ordinary hay or straw. This loss of flavor is particularly +noticeable with sage, which is one of the easiest herbs to spoil by bad +management. Even when kept in air-tight glass or tin receptacles, as +recommended, it generally becomes useless before the end of two years. + +[Illustration: Paper Sacks of Dried Herbs for Home Use] + +When large quantities of herbs are to be cured a fruit evaporator may be +employed, the herbs being spread thinly upon wire-bottomed trays so that +an ample current of air may pass through them. Care must be taken to +keep the temperature inside the machine below 120 degrees. The greatest +efficiency can be secured by placing the trays of most recently gathered +herbs at the top, the partially dried ones being lowered to positions +nearer the source of heat. In this way the fresh, dry, warm air comes in +contact first with the herbs most nearly dried, removes the last +vestige of moisture from them and after passing through the intervening +trays comes to those most recently gathered. + +[Illustration: Hand Cultivator and Scarifier] + +Unless the evaporator be fitted with some mechanism which will permit +all the trays to be lowered simultaneously, the work of changing the +trays may seem too irksome to be warranted. But where no changes of +trays are made, greater care must be given to the bottom trays because +they will dry out faster than those at the top. Indeed in such cases, +after the apparatus is full, it becomes almost essential to move the +trays lower, because if fresh green herbs, particularly those which are +somewhat wet, be placed at the bottom of the series, the air will become +so charged with moisture from them that the upper layers may for a time +actually absorb this moisture and thus take longer to dry. Besides this, +they will surely lose some of their flavoring ingredients--the very +things which it is desired to save. + +No effort should be made to hasten the drying process by increasing the +temperature, since this is likely to result as just mentioned. A +personal experience may teach the reader a lesson. I once had a large +amount of parsley to cure and thought to expedite matters by using the +oven of a gas stove. Suffice it to tell that the whole quantity was +ruined, not a pinch was saved. In spite of the closest regulation the +heat grew too great and the flavor was literally cooked out of the +leaves. The delicate oil saturated everything in the house, and for a +week or more the whole place smelled as if chicken fricassee was being +made upon a wholesale plan. + +Except as garnishes, herbs are probably more frequently used in a dry +state than in all other ways put together. Perhaps this is because the +method of preparing them seems simpler than that of infusion, because +large quantities may be kept in small spaces, and because they can be +used for every purpose that the fresh plants or the decoctions can be +employed. In general, however, they are called into requisition +principally in dressings, soups, stews and sauces in which their +particles are not considered objectionable. If clear sauces or soups are +desired, the dried herbs may still be used to impart the flavor, their +particles being removed by straining. + +The method of preparing dill, anise, caraway and other herbs whose seed +is used, differs from that employed with the foliage herbs mainly in the +ripeness of the plants. These must be gathered as soon as they show +signs of maturity but before the seeds are ready to drop from them. In +all this work especial care must be paid to the details of cleaning. For +a pleasing appearance the seed heads must be gathered before they become +the least bit weather-beaten. This is as essential as to have the seed +ripe. Next, the seed must be perfectly clean, free from chaff, bits of +broken stems and other debris. Much depends upon the manner of handling +as well as upon harvesting. Care must be taken in threshing to avoid +bruising the seeds, particularly the oily ones, by pounding too hard or +by tramping upon them. Threshing should never be done in damp weather; +always when the air is very dry. + +In clear weather after the dew has disappeared the approximately ripe +plants or seed heads must be harvested and spread thinly--never packed +firmly--upon stout cloth such as ticking, sailcloth, or factory cotton. +A warm, open shed where the air circulates freely is an admirable place, +since the natural temperature of the air is sufficient in the case of +seeds to bring about good results. Usually in less than a week the tops +will have become dry enough to be beaten out with a light flail or a +rod. In this operation great care must be taken to avoid bruising or +otherwise injuring the seed. The beating should therefore be done in a +sheet spread upon a lawn or at least upon short grass. The force of the +blows will thus be lessened and bruising avoided. + +For cleaning herb seeds sieves in all sizes from No. 2 to No. 40 are +needed. The sizes represent various finenesses of mesh. All above No. 8 +should be of brass wire, because brass is considerably more durable and +less likely to rust than iron. The cloths upon which the herbs are +spread should be as large as the floor upon which the threshing is to be +done except when the floor is without cracks, but it is more convenient +to use cloths always, because they facilitate handling and temporary +storing. Light cotton duck is perhaps best, but the weave must be close. +A convenient size is 10 x 10 feet. + +After the stalks have been removed the seed should be allowed to remain +for several days longer in a very thin layer--the thinner the +better--and turned every day to remove the last vestige of moisture. It +will be even better still to have the drying sheet suspended so air may +circulate below as well as above the seed. Not less than a week for the +smallest seeds and double that time for the larger ones is necessary. To +avoid loss or injury it is imperative that the seed be dry before it is +put in the storage packages. Of course, if infusions are to be made all +this is unnecessary; the seed may be put in the liquor as soon as the +broken stems, etc. are removed subsequent to threshing. + + +HERBS AS GARNISHES + +As garnishes several of the culinary herbs are especially valuable. This +is particularly true of parsley, which is probably more widely used than +any other plant, its only close rivals being watercress and lettuce, +which, however, are generally inferior to it in delicacy of tint and +form of foliage, the two cardinal virtues of a garnish. + +Parsley varieties belong to three principal groups, based upon the form +of the foliage: (1) Plain varieties, in which the leaves are nearly as +they are in nature; (2) moss-curled varieties in which they are +curiously and pleasingly contorted; and (3) fern leaved, in which the +foliage is not curled, but much divided into threadlike parts. + +The moss-curled varieties are far more popular than the other two groups +put together and are the only ones used especially as garnishes with +meat dishes in the hotels and restaurants of the large cities. The +plain-leaved sorts cannot be compared in any way except in flavor with +the varieties of the other groups. But the fern-leaved kinds, which +unfortunately have not become commercially well known, surpass even the +finest varieties of the moss-curled group, not only in their exquisite +and delicate form, but in their remarkably rich, dark-green coloring and +blending of light and shade. But the mere fact that these varieties are +not known in the cities should not preclude their popularity in suburban +and town gardens and in the country, where every householder is monarch +of his own soil and can satisfy very many aesthetic and gustatory desires +without reference to market dictum, that bane alike of the market +gardener and his customer. + +Several other herbs--tansy, savory, thyme, marjoram, basil, and +balm--make pretty garnishes, but since they are not usually considered +so pleasant to nibble at, they are rarely used. The pleasing effect of +any garnish may be heightened by adding here and there a few herb +flowers such as thyme or savory. Other flowers may be used in the same +way; for instance, nasturtium. + +There is no reason why herbs so used should not be employed several +times over, and afterwards dried or bottled in vinegar if they be free +from gravy, oils, fats, etc., and if in sufficient quantity to make such +a use worth while. Other pretty garnishes which are easily obtained are +corn salad, peppergrass, mustard, fennel, and young leaves of carrot. +But surpassing all these in pleasing and novel effects are the curled, +pink, red and white-leaved varieties of chicory and nasturtium flowers +alone or resting upon parsley or other delicate foliage. So much by way +of digression. + + +PROPAGATION + +SEEDS + +[Illustration: Flat of Seedlings Ready to Be Transplanted] + +Most herbs may be readily propagated by means of seeds. Some, however, +such as tarragon, which does not produce seed, and several other +perennial kinds, are propagated by division, layers, or cuttings. In +general, propagation by means of seed is considered most satisfactory. +Since the seeds in many instances are small or are slow to germinate, +they are usually sown in shallow boxes or seed pans. When the seedlings +are large enough to be handled they are transplanted to small pots or +somewhat deeper flats or boxes, a couple of inches being allowed between +the plants. When conditions are favorable in the garden; that is, when +the soil is moist and warm and the season has become settled, the +plantlets may be removed to permanent quarters. + +If the seed be sown out of doors, it is a good practice to sow a few +radish seeds in the same row with the herb seeds, particularly if these +latter take a long time to germinate or are very small, as marjoram, +savory and thyme. The variety of radish chosen should be a turnip-rooted +sort of exceedingly rapid growth, and with few and small leaves. The +radishes serve to mark the rows and thus enable cultivation to commence +much earlier than if the herbs were sown alone. They should be pulled +early--the earlier the better after the herb plantlets appear. Never +should the radishes be allowed to crowd the herbs. + +By the narration of a little incident, I may illustrate the necessity of +sowing these radish seeds thinly. Having explained to some juvenile +gardeners that the radish seeds should be dropped so far apart among the +other seeds that they would look lonesome in the bottoms of the +rows--not more than six seeds to the foot--and having illustrated my +meaning by sowing a row myself, I let each one take his turn at sowing. +While I watched them all went well. But, alas, for precept and example! +To judge by the general result after the plants were up, the seedsman +might justifiably have guaranteed the seed to germinate about 500 per +cent, because each boy declared that _he_ sowed _his_ rows thinly. +Nevertheless, there was a stand of radishes that would have gladdened +the heart of a lawn maker! The rows looked like regiments drawn up in +close order and not, as was desired, merely lines of scattered +skirmishers. In many places there were more than 100 to the foot! +Fortunately the variety was a quick-maturing kind and the crop, for such +it became, was harvested before any damage was done the slow-appearing +seedlings, whose positions the radishes were intended to indicate. + + +CUTTINGS + +[Illustration: Glass-Covered Propagating Box] + +No herbs are so easy to propagate by means of cuttings as spearmint, +peppermint, and their relatives which have underground stems. Every +joint of these stems will produce a new plant if placed in somewhat +moist soil. Often, however, this ability is a disadvantage, because the +plants are prone to spread and become a nuisance unless watched. Hence +such plants should be placed where they will not have their roots cut by +tools used close to them. When they seem to be extending, their borders +should be trimmed with a sharp spade pushed vertically full depth into +the soil and all the earth beyond the clump thus restricted should be +shaken out with a garden fork and the cut pieces of mint removed. +Further, the forked-over ground should be hoed every week during the +remainder of the season, to destroy lurking plantlets. + +The other perennial and biennial herbs may be readily propagated by +means of stem cuttings or "slips," which are generally as easy to manage +as verbenas, geraniums and other "house plants." The cuttings may be +made of either fully ripened wood of the preceding or the current +season, or they may be of firm, not succulent green stems. After +trimming off all but a few of the upper leaves, which should be clipped +to reduce transpiration, the cuttings--never more than 4 or 5 inches +long--should be plunged nearly full depth in well-shaded, rather light, +porous, well-drained loam where they should remain undisturbed until +they show evidences of growth. Then they may be transplanted. While in +the cutting bed they must never be allowed to become dry. This is +especially true of greenwood cuttings made during the summer. These +should always have the coolest, shadiest corner in the garden. The +cuttings taken in the spring should be set in the garden as soon as +rooted; but the summer cuttings, especially if taken late, should +generally be left in their beds until the following spring. They may, +however, be removed for winter use to window boxes or the greenhouse +benches. + +[Illustration: Flower Pot Propagating Bed] + +Often the plants grown in window boxes may supply the early cuttings, +which may be rooted in the house. Where a greenhouse is available, a +few plants may be transplanted in autumn either from the garden or from +the bed of summer cuttings just mentioned, kept in a rather cool +temperature during the winter and drawn upon for cuttings as the stems +become sufficiently mature. The rooting may take place in a regular +cutting bench, or it may occur in the soil out of doors, the plantlets +being transplanted to pots as soon as they have rooted well. + +If a large number of plants is desired, a hotbed may be called into +requisition in early spring and the plants hardened off in cold frames +as the season advances. Hardening off is essential with all plants grown +under glass for outdoor planting, because unless the plants be inured to +outside temperatures before being placed in the open ground, they will +probably suffer a check, if they do not succumb wholly to the +unaccustomed conditions. If well managed they should be injured not at +all. + + +LAYERS + +Several of the perennial herbs, such as sage, savory, and thyme, may be +easily propagated by means of layers, the stems being pegged down and +covered lightly with earth. If the moisture and the temperature be +favorable, roots should be formed in three or four weeks and the stem +separated from the parent and planted. Often there may be several +branches upon the stem, and each of these may be used as a new plantlet +provided it has some roots or a rooted part of the main stem attached to +it. By this method I have obtained nearly 100 rooted plants from a +single specimen of Holt's Mammoth sage grown in a greenhouse. And from +the same plant at the same time I have taken more than 100 cuttings. +This is not an exceptional feat with this variety, the plants of which +are very branchy and often exceed a yard in diameter. + +Layering is probably the simplest and most satisfactory method of +artificial propagation under ordinary conditions, since the stems are +almost sure to take root if undisturbed long enough; and since rooted +plants can hardly fail to grow if properly transplanted. Then, too, less +apparent time is taken than with plants grown from cuttings and far less +than with those grown from seed. In other words, they generally produce +a crop sooner than the plants obtained by the other methods set in +operation at the same time. + + +DIVISION + +Division of the clumps of such herbs as mint is often practiced, a sharp +spade or a lawn edger being used to cut the clump into pieces about 6 +inches square. The squares are then placed in new quarters and packed +firmly in place with soil. This method is, however, the least +satisfactory of all mentioned, because it too frequently deprives the +plants of a large amount of roots, thus impairs the growth, and during +the first season or two may result in unsymmetrical clumps. If done in +early spring before growth starts, least damage is done to the plants. + +[Illustration: Holt's Mammoth and Common Sage About Half Natural Size] + +Artificial methods of propagation, especially those of cuttage and +layerage, have the further advantage over propagation by means of seeds, +in the perpetuation of desired characters of individual plants, one or +more of which may appear in any plantation. These, particularly if more +productive than the others, should always be utilized as stock, not +merely because their progeny artificially obtained are likely to retain +the character and thus probably increase the yield of the plantation, +but principally because they may form the nucleus of a choice strain. + +[Illustration: Marker for Hotbeds and Cold Frames] + +Except in the respects mentioned, these methods of propagation are not +notably superior to propagation by means of good seed, which, by the +way, is not overabundant. By the consumption of a little extra time, any +desired number of plants may be obtained from seed. At any rate, seed is +what one must start with in nearly every case. + + +TRANSPLANTING + +No more care is required in transplanting herbs than in resetting other +plants, but unless a few essentials are realized in practice the results +are sure to be unsatisfactory. Of course, the ideal way is to grow the +plants in small flower pots and when they have formed a ball of roots, +to set them in the garden. The next best is to grow them in seed pans or +flats (shallow boxes) in which they should be set several inches apart +as soon as large enough to handle, and in which they should be allowed +to grow for a few weeks, to form a mass of roots. When these plants are +to be set in the garden they should be broken apart by hand with as +little loss of roots as possible. + +[Illustration: Leading Forms of Trowels] + +But where neither of these plans can be practiced, as in the growing of +the plants in little nursery beds, either in hotbeds, cold frames or in +the garden border, the plants should be "pricked out," that is, +transplanted while very small to a second nursery bed, in order to make +them "stocky" or sturdy and better able to take care of themselves when +removed to final quarters. If this be done there should be no need of +clipping back the tops to balance an excessive loss of roots, a +necessity in case the plants are not so treated, or in case they become +large or lanky in the second bed. + +In all cases it is best to transplant when the ground is moist, as it +is immediately after being dug or plowed. But this cannot always be +arranged, neither can one always count upon a shower to moisten the soil +just after the plants have been set. If advantage can be taken of an +approaching rainfall, it should be done, because this is the ideal time +for transplanting. It is much better than immediately after, which is +perhaps next best. Transplanting in cloudy weather and toward evening is +better than in sunny weather and in the morning. + +Since the weather is prone to be coy, if not fickle, the manual part of +transplanting should always be properly done. The plants should always +be taken up with as little loss of roots as possible, be kept exposed to +the air as short a time as possible, and when set in the ground have the +soil packed firmly about their roots, so firmly that the operator may +think it is almost too firm. After setting, the surface soil should be +made loose, so as to act as a mulch and prevent the loss of moisture +from the packed lower layer. If the ground be dry a hole may be made +beside the plant and filled with water--LOTS OF WATER--and when it has +soaked away and the soil seems to be drying, the surface should be made +smooth and loose as already mentioned. If possible such times should be +avoided, because of the extra work entailed and the probable increased +loss due to the unfavorable conditions. + + +IMPLEMENTS + +When herbs are grown upon a commercial scale the implements needed will +be the same as for general trucking--plows, harrows, weeder, etc.--to +fit the soil for the hand tools. Much labor can be saved by using +hand-wheel drills, cultivators, weeders and the other tools that have +become so wonderfully popular within the past decade or two. Some +typical kinds are shown in these pages. These implements are +indispensable in keeping the surface soil loose and free from weeds, +especially between the rows and even fairly close to the plants. In +doing this they save an immense amount of labor and time, since they can +be used with both hands and the muscles of the body with less exertion +than the hoe and the rake require. + +Nothing, however, can take the place of the hand tools for getting among +and around the plants. The work that weeding entails is tiresome, but +must be done if success is to crown ones efforts. While the plants are +little some of the weeders may be used. Those with a blade or a series +of blades are adapted for cutting weeds off close to the surface; those +with prongs are useful only for making the soil loose closer to the +plants than the rake dare be run by the average man. Hoes of various +types are useful when the plants become somewhat larger or when one does +not have the wheel cultivators. In all well-regulated gardens there +should be a little liberal selection of the various wheel and hand +tools. + +Only one of the hand tools demands any special comment. Many gardeners +like to use a dibble for transplanting. With this tool it is so easy to +make a hole, and to press the soil against the plant dropped in that +hole! But I believe that many of the failures in transplanting result +from the improper use of this tool. Unless the dibble be properly +operated the plant may be left suspended in a hole, the sides of which +are more or less hard and impervious to the tiny, tender rootlets that +strive to penetrate them. From my own observation of the use of this +tool, I believe that the proper place for the dibble in the novices +garden is in the attic, side by side with the "unloaded" shotgun, where +it may be viewed with apprehension. + +[Illustration: Wooden Dibbles] + +In spite of this warning, if anyone is hardy enough to use a dibble, let +him choose the flat style, not the round one. The proper way is to +thrust the tool straight down, at right angles to the direction of the +row, and press the soil back and forth with the flat side of the blade +until a hole, say 2 or 3 inches across and 5 or 6 inches deep, has been +formed. In the hole the plantlet should then be suspended so all the +roots and a little of the stem beneath the surface will be covered when +the soil is replaced. Replacing the soil is the important part of the +operation. The dibble must now be thrust in the soil again, parallel and +close to the hole, and the soil pushed over so the hole will be +completely closed from bottom to top. Firming the soil completes the +operation. + +There is much less danger of leaving a hole with the flat than with the +round dibble, which is almost sure to leave a hole beneath the plant. I +remember having trouble with some lily plants which were not thriving. +Supposing that insects were at the roots, I carefully drew the earth +away from one side, and found that the earth had not been brought up +carefully beneath the bulbs and that the roots were hanging 4 or 5 +inches beneath the bulbs in the hole left by the dibble and not properly +closed by the careless gardener. + +I therefore warn every dibble user to be sure to crowd over the soil +well, especially at the lower end of the hole. For my own part, I rely +upon my hands. Digits existed long before dibbles and they are much more +reliable. What matter if some soil sticks to them; it is not +unresponsive to the wooing of water! + + +LOCATION OF HERB GARDEN + +In general, the most favorable exposure for an herb garden is toward the +south, but lacking such an exposure should not deter one from planting +herbs on a northern slope if this be the only site available. Indeed, +such sites often prove remarkably good if other conditions are +propitious and proper attention is given the plants. Similarly, a +smooth, gently sloping surface is especially desirable, but even in +gardens in which the ground is almost billowy the gardener may often +take advantage of the irregularities by planting the moisture-loving +plants in the hollows and those that like dry situations upon the +ridges. Nothing like turning disadvantages to account! + +No matter what the nature of the surface and the exposure, it is always +advisable to give the herbs the most sunny spots in the garden, places +where shade from trees, barns, other buildings and from fences cannot +reach them. This is suggested because the development of the oils, upon +which the flavoring of most of the herbs mainly depends, is best in full +sunshine and the plants have more substance than when grown in the +shade. + +[Illustration: Combination Hand Plow, Harrow, Cultivator and Seed Drill] + + +THE SOIL AND ITS PREPARATION + +As to the kind of soil, Hobson's choice ranks first! It is not necessary +to move into the next county just to have an herb garden. This is one of +the cases in which the gardener may well make the best of however bad a +bargain he has. + +But supposing that a selection be possible, a light sandy loam, +underlaid by a porous subsoil so as to be well drained, should be given +the preference, since it is warmed quickly, easily worked, and may be +stirred early in the season and after a rain. Clay loams are less +desirable upon every one of the points mentioned, and very sandy soils +also. But if Hobson has one of these, there will be an excellent +opportunity to cultivate philosophy as well as herbs. And the gardener +may be agreeably surprised at the results obtained. No harm in trying! +Whatever the quality of the soil, it should not be very rich, because in +such soils the growth is apt to be rank and the quantity of oil small in +proportion to the leafage. + +The preparation of the soil should commence as soon as the grass in the +neighborhood is seen to be sprouting. Well-decayed manure should be +spread at the rate of not less than a bushel nor more than double that +quantity to the square yard, and as soon as the soil is dry enough to +crumble readily it should be dug or plowed as deeply as possible without +bringing up the subsoil. This operation of turning over the soil should +be thoroughly performed, the earth being pulverized as much as possible. +To accomplish this no hand tool surpasses the spading fork. + +One other method is, however, superior especially when practiced upon +the heavier soils--fall plowing or digging. In practicing this method +care should be taken to plow late when the soil, moistened by autumn +rains, will naturally come up in big lumps. These lumps must be left +undisturbed during the winter for frost to act upon. All that will be +necessary in the spring will be to rake or harrow the ground. The clods +will crumble. + +[Illustration: Surface Paring Cultivator] + +I once had occasion to try this method upon about 25 acres of land which +had been made by pumping mud from a river bottom upon a marsh thus +converted into dry ground by the sedimentation. Three sturdy horses were +needed to do the plowing. The earth turned up in chunks as large as a +man's body. Contrary to my plowman's doubts and predictions, Jack Frost +did a grand milling business that winter! Clods that could hardly be +broken in the autumn with a sledge hammer crumbled down in the spring at +the touch of a garden rake! + + +CULTIVATION + +Having thoroughly fined the surface of the garden by harrowing and +raking, the seeds may be sown or the plants transplanted as already +noted. From this time forward the surface must be kept loose and open by +surface cultivation every week or 10 days and after every shower that +forms a crust, until the plants cover the whole ground. This frequent +cultivation is not merely for the purpose of keeping the weeds in check; +it is a necessary operation to keep the immediate surface layer powdery, +in which condition it will act as a mulch to prevent the loss of water +from the lower soil layers. When kept in perfect condition by frequent +stirring the immediate surface should be powdery. Yes, _powdery_! Within +1 inch of the surface, however, the color will be darker from the +presence of moisture. When supplied with such conditions, failures must +be attributed to other causes than lack of water. + + +DOUBLE CROPPING + +When desired, herbs may be used as secondary crops to follow such early +vegetables as early cabbage and peas; or, if likely to be needed still +earlier, after radishes, transplanted lettuce and onions grown from +sets. These primary crops, having reached marketable size, are removed, +the ground stirred and the herb plants transplanted from nursery beds or +cold frames. + +[Illustration: Thinning Scheme for Harvesting] + +Often the principal herbs--sage, savory, marjoram and thyme--are set +close together, both the rows and the plants in them being nearer than +recommended further on. The object of such practice is to get several +crops in the following way: When the plants in the rows commence to +crowd one another each alternate plant is removed and sold or cured. +This may perhaps be done a second time. Then when the rows begin to +crowd, each alternate row is removed and the remainder allowed to +develop more fully. The chief advantages of this practice are not only +that several crops may be gathered, but each plant, being supplied with +plenty of room and light, will have fewer yellow or dead leaves than +when crowded. In the diagram the numbers show which plants are removed +first, second, third and last. + + +HERB RELATIONSHIPS + +Those readers who delight to delve among pedigrees, genealogies and +family connections, may perhaps be a little disappointed to learn that, +in spite of the odorous nature of the herbs, there are none whose +history reveals a skeleton in the closet. They are all harmless. Now and +then, to be sure, there occur records of a seemingly compromising +nature, such as the effects attributed to the eating or even the +handling of celery; but such accounts, harrowing as they may appear, are +insufficient to warrant a bar sinister. Indeed, not only is the mass of +evidence in favor of the defendant, but it casts a reflection upon the +credibility of the plaintiff, who may usually be shown to have indulged +immoderately, to have been frightened by hallucinations or even to have +arraigned the innocent for his own guilt. Certain it is that there is +not one of the sweet herbs mentioned in this volumes that has not long +enjoyed a more or less honored place in the cuisine of all the +continents, and this in spite of the occasional tootings of some +would-be detractor. + +Like those classes of society that cannot move with "the four hundred," +the herbs are very exclusive, more exclusive indeed, than their +superiors, the other vegetables. Very few members have they admitted +that do not belong to two approved families, and such unrelated ones as +do reach the charmed circles must first prove their worthiness and then +hold their places by intrinsic merit. + +[Illustration: Center Row Hand Cultivator] + +These two coteries are known as the Labiatae and the Umbelliferae, the +former including the sages, mints and their connections; the latter the +parsleys and their relatives. With the exception of tarragon, which +belongs to the Compositae, parsley and a few of its relatives which have +deserted their own ranks, all the important leaf herbs belong to the +Labiatae; and without a notable exception all the herbs whose seeds are +used for flavoring belong to the Umbelliferae. Fennel-flower, which +belongs to the natural order Ranunculaceae, or crowfoot family, is a +candidate for admission to the seed sodality; costmary and southernwood +of the Compositae seek membership with the leaf faction; rue of the +Rutaceae and tansy of the Compositae, in spite of suspension for their +boldness and ill-breeding, occasionally force their way back into the +domain of the leaf herbs. Marigold, a composite, forms a clique by +itself, the most exclusive club of all. It has admitted no members! And +there seem to be no candidates. + +The important members of the Labiatae are: + + Sage (_Salvia officinalis_, Linn.). + Savory (_Satureia hortensis_, Linn.). + Savory, winter (_Satureia montana_, Linn.). + Thyme (_Thymus vulgaris_, Linn.). + Marjoram (_Origanum Marjoram_; _O. Onites_, Linn.; and + _M. vulgare_, Linn.). + Balm (_Melissa officinalis_, Linn.). + Basil (_Ocimum Basilicum_, Linn., and _O. minimum_, Linn.). + Spearmint (_Mentha spicata_, Linn., or _M. viridis_, Linn.). + Peppermint (_Mentha Piperita_, Linn.). + Rosemary (_Rosmarinus officinalis_, Linn.). + Clary (_Salvia Sclarea_, Linn.). + Pennyroyal (_Mentha Pulegium_, Linn.). + Horehound (_Marrubium vulgare_, Linn.). + Hyssop (_Hyssopus vulgaris_, Linn.). + Catnip (_Nepeta Cataria_, Linn.). + Lavender (_Lavandula vera_, D. C.; _L. spica_, D. C.). + +These plants, which are mostly natives of mild climates of the old +world, are characterized by having square stems; opposite, simple leaves +and branches; and more or less two-lipped flowers which appear in the +axils of the leaves, occasionally alone, but usually several together, +forming little whorls, which often compose loose or compact spikes or +racemes. Each fertile blossom is followed by four little seedlike fruits +in the bottom of the calyx, which remains attached to the plant. The +foliage is generally plentifully dotted with minute glands that contain +a volatile oil, upon which depends the aroma and piquancy peculiar to +the individual species. + +The leading species of the Umbelliferae are: + + Parsley (_Carum Petroselinum_, Benth. and Hook.). + Dill (_Anethum graveolens_, Linn.). + Fennel (_Foeniculum officinale_, Linn.). + Angelica (_Archangelica officinalis_, Hoofm.). + Anise (_Pimpinella anisum_, Linn.). + Caraway (_Carum Carui_, Linn.). + Coriander (_Coriandrum sativum_, Linn.). + Chervil (_Scandix Cerefolium_, Linn.). + Cumin or Cummin (_Cuminum Cyminum_, Linn.). + Lovage (_Levisticum officinale_, Koch.). + Samphire (_Crithmum maritimum_, Linn.). + +[Illustration: Hand Plow] + +Like the members of the preceding group, the species of the Umbelliferae +are principally natives of mild climates of the old world, but many of +them extend farther north into the cold parts of the continent, even +beyond the Arctic Circle in some cases. They have cylindrical, usually +hollow stems; alternate, generally compound leaves the basis of whose +stalks ensheath the branches or stems; and small flowers almost always +arranged in compound terminal umbels. The fruits are composed of two +seedlike dry carpels, each containing a single seed, and usually +separating when ripe. Each carpel bears five longitudinal prominent ribs +and several, often four, lesser intermediate ones, in the intervals +between which numerous oil ducts have their openings from the interior +of the fruit. The oil is generally found in more or less abundance also +in other parts of the plant, but is usually most plentiful in the +fruits. + +The members of the Compositae used as sweet herbs are, with the exception +of tarragon, comparatively unimportant, and except for having their +flowers in close heads "on a common receptacle, surrounded by an +involucre," have few conspicuous characters in common. No further space +except that required for their enumeration need here be devoted to them. +And this remark will apply also to the other two herbs mentioned further +below. + + +COMPOSITAE + +Marigold, Pot (_Calendula officinalis_, Linn.). Tansy (_Tanacetum +vulgaris_, Linn.). Tarragon (_Artemisia Dracunculus_, Linn.). +Southernwood (_Artemisia Abrotanum_, Linn.). + + +RUTACEAE + +Rue (_Ruta graveolens_, Linn.). + + +BORAGINACEAE + +Borage (_Borago officinalis_, Linn.). + + +RANUNCULACEAE + +Fennel-flower (_Nigella sativa_, Linn.). + +Before dismissing this section of the subject, it may be interesting to +glance over the list of names once more. Seven of these plants were +formerly so prominent in medicine that they were designated "official" +and nearly all the others were extensively used by physicians. At the +present day there are very few that have not passed entirely out of +official medicine and even out of domestic practice, at least so far as +their intrinsic qualities are concerned. Some, to be sure, are still +employed because of their pleasant flavors, which disguise the +disagreeable taste of other drugs. But this is a very different matter. + +One of the most notable of these is fennel. What wonders could that +plant not perform 300 years ago! In Parkinson's "Theatricum Botanicum" +(1640) its "vertues" are recorded. Apart from its use as food, for +which, then, as now, it was highly esteemed, without the attachment of +any medicinal qualities as an esculent, it was considered efficacious in +cases of gout, jaundice, cramps, shortness of breath, wheezing of the +lungs; for cleansing of the blood and improving the complexion; to use +as an eye-water or to increase the flow of milk; as a remedy for serpent +bites or an antidote for poisonous herbs and mushrooms; and for people +who "are growen fat to abate their unwieldinesse and make them more +gaunt and lanke." + +But let us peep into the 19th edition of the United States Dispensatory. +Can this be the same fennel which "is one of our most grateful +aromatics," and which, because of "the absence of any highly excitant +property," is recommended for mixing with unpleasant medicines? Ask any +druggist, and he will say it is used for little else nowadays than for +making a tea to give babies for wind on their stomachs. Strange, but +true it is! Similar statements if not more remarkable ones could be made +about many of the other herbs herein discussed. Many of these are spoken +of as "formerly considered specific" for such and such troubles but "now +known to be inert." + +The cause is not far to seek. An imaginative and superstitious people +attached fanciful powers to these and hundreds of other plants which the +intervening centuries have been unable wholly to eradicate, for among +the more ignorant classes, especially of Europe, many of these relics of +a dark age still persist. + +But let us not gloat over our superior knowledge. After a similar lapse +of time, may not our vaunted wisdom concerning the properties of plants +look as ridiculous to the delver among our musty volumes? Indeed, it +may, if we may judge by the discoveries and investigations of only the +past fifty years. During this time a surprisingly large number of plants +have been proved to be not merely innocuous instead of poisonous, as +they were reputed, but fit for human food and even of superior +excellence! + + +THE HERB LIST + +=Angelica= (_Archangelica officinalis_, Hoffm.), a biennial or perennial +herb of the natural order Umbelliferae, so called from its supposed +medicinal qualities. It is believed to be a native of Syria, from +whence it has spread to many cool European climates, especially Lapland +and the Alps, where it has become naturalized. + +[Illustration: Prophecy of Many Toothsome Dishes] + +_Description._ Its roots are long, spindle-shaped, fleshy, and sometimes +weigh three pounds; its stems stout, herbaceous, fluted, often more than +4 feet tall, and hollow; its leaves long-stalked, frequently 3 feet in +length, reddish purple at the clasping bases, and composed, in the +larger ones, of numerous small leaflets, in three principal groups, +which are each subdivided into three lesser groups; its flowers +yellowish or greenish, small and numerous, in large roundish umbels; its +seeds pale yellow, membranous-edged, oblong flattened on one side, +convex on the other, which is marked with three conspicuous ribs. + +_Cultivation._ Since the seeds lose their vitality rapidly, rarely being +viable after the first year, they should be sown as soon as ripe in late +summer or early autumn, or not later than the following spring after +having been kept during the winter in a cold storeroom. The soil should +be moderately rich, rather light, deep, well drained, but moist and well +supplied with humus. It should be deeply prepared and kept loose and +open as long as tools can be used among the plants, which may be left to +care for themselves as soon as they shade the ground well. + +In the autumn, the seeds may be sown where the plants are to remain or +preferably in a nursery bed, which usually does not need protection +during the winter. In the spring a mild hotbed, a cold frame or a +nursery bed in the garden may be used, according to the earliness of +planting. Half an inch is deep enough to cover the seeds. The seedlings +should be transplanted when still small for their first summer's growth, +a space of about 18 inches being allowed between them. In the autumn +they should be removed to permanent quarters, the plants being set 3 +feet apart. + +If well grown, the leaves may be cut for use during the summer after +transplanting; the plants may not, however, produce seed until the +following season. Unless seed is desired, the tops should be cut and +destroyed at or before flowering time, because, if this be not done, the +garden is apt to become overrun with angelica seedlings. If the seeds +are wanted, they should be gathered and treated as indicated on page 28. +After producing seed, the plants frequently die; but by cutting down the +tops when the flower heads first appear, and thus preventing the +formation of seed, the plants may continue for several years longer. + +_Uses._ The stems and leaf stalks, while still succulent, are eaten as a +salad or are roasted or boiled like potatoes. In Europe, they are +frequently employed as a garnish or as an adjunct to dishes of meat and +fish. They are also largely used for making candied angelica. (See +below.) Formerly the stems were blanched like celery and were very +popular as a vegetable; now they are little used in the United States. +The tender leaves are often boiled and eaten as a substitute for +spinach. Less in America than in Europe, the seeds, which, like other +parts of the plant, are aromatic and bitterish, are used for flavoring +various beverages, cakes, and candies, especially "comfits." Oil of +angelica is obtained from the seeds by distillation with steam or +boiling water, the vapor being condensed and the oil separated by +gravity. It is also obtained in smaller quantity from the roots, 200 +pounds of which, it is said, yield only about one pound of the oil. Like +the seeds, the oil is used for flavoring. + +_Angelica candied._ Green says: The fresh roots, the tender stems, the +leaf stalks and the midribs of the leaves make a pleasing aromatic +candy. When fresh gathered the plant is rather too bitter for use. This +flavor may be reduced by boiling. The parts should first be sliced +lengthwise, to remove the pith. The length of time will depend somewhat +upon the thickness of the pieces. A few minutes is usually sufficient. +After removal and draining the pieces are put in a syrup of granulated +sugar and boiled till full candy density is reached. The kettle is then +removed from the fire and the contents allowed to cool. When almost cold +the pieces are to be taken out and allowed to dry. + +=Anise= (_Pimpinella Anisum_, Linn.), an annual herb of the natural order +Umbelliferae. It is a native of southwestern Asia, northern Africa and +south-eastern Europe, whence it has been introduced by man throughout +the Mediterranean region, into Germany, and to some extent into other +temperate regions of both hemispheres, but seems not to be known +anywhere in the wild state or as an escape from gardens. To judge from +its mention in the Scriptures (Matthew xxiii, 23), it was highly +valued as a cultivated crop prior to our era, not only in Palestine, +but elsewhere in the East. Many Greek and Roman authors, especially +Dioscorides, Theophrastus, Pliny and Paladius, wrote more or less fully +of its cultivation and uses. + +[Illustration: Anise in Flower and in Fruit] + +From their days to the present it seems to have enjoyed general +popularity. In the ninth century, Charlemagne commanded that it be grown +upon the imperial farms; in the thirteenth, Albertus Magnus speaks +highly of it; and since then many agricultural writers have devoted +attention to it. But though it has been cultivated for at least two +thousand years and is now extensively grown in Malta, Spain, southern +France, Russia, Germany and India, which mainly supply the market, it +seems not to have developed any improved varieties. + +_Description._--Its roots are white, spindle-shaped and rather fibrous; +its stems about 18 inches tall, branchy, erect, slender, cylindrical; +its root leaves lobed somewhat like those of celery; its stem leaves +more and more finely cut toward the upper part of the stem, near the top +of which they resemble fennel leaves in their finely divided segments; +its flowers yellowish white, small, rather large, in loose umbels +consisting of many umbellets; its fruits ("seeds") greenish-gray, small, +ovoid or oblong in outline, longitudinally furrowed and ridged on the +convex side, very aromatic, sweetish and pleasantly piquant. + +_Cultivation._--The seeds, which should be as fresh as possible, never +more than two years old, should be sown in permanent quarters as soon as +the weather becomes settled in early spring. They should be planted 1/2 +inch deep, about 1/2 inch asunder, in drills 15 or 18 inches apart, and +the plants thinned when about 2 inches tall to stand 6 inches asunder. +An ounce of seed should plant about 150 feet of drill. The plants, which +do not transplant readily, thrive best in well-drained, light, rich, +rather dry, loamy soils well exposed to the sun. A light application of +well-rotted manure, careful preparation of the ground, clean and +frequent cultivation, are the only requisites in the management of this +crop. + +In about four months from the sowing of the seed, and in about one month +from the appearance of the flowers, the plants may be pulled, or +preferably cut, for drying. (See page 25.) The climate and the soils in +the warmer parts of the northern states appear to be favorable to the +commercial cultivation of anise, which it seems should prove a +profitable crop under proper management. + +_Uses._--The leaves are frequently employed as a garnish, for flavoring +salads, and to a small extent as potherbs. Far more general, however, is +the use of the seeds, which enter as a flavoring into various +condiments, especially curry powders, many kinds of cake, pastry, and +confectionery and into some kinds of cheese and bread. Anise oil is +extensively employed for flavoring many beverages both alcoholic and +non-spirituous and for disguising the unpleasant flavors of various +drugs. The seeds are also ground and compounded with other fragrant +materials for making sachet powders, and the oil mixed with other fluids +for liquid perfumes. Various similar anise combinations are largely used +in perfuming soaps, pomatums and other toilet articles. The very +volatile, nearly colorless oil is usually obtained by distillation with +water, about 50 pounds of seed being required to produce one pound of +oil. At Erfurt, Germany, where much of the commercial oil is made, the +"hay" and the seeds are both used for distilling. + +=Balm= (_Melissa officinalis_, Linn.), a perennial herb of the natural +order Labiatae. The popular name is a contraction of _balsam_, the plant +having formerly been considered a specific for a host of ailments. The +generic name, _Melissa_, is the Greek for _bee_ and is an allusion to +the fondness of bees for the abundant nectar of the flowers. + +Balm is a native of southern Europe, where it was cultivated as a source +of honey and as a sweet herb more than 2,000 years ago. It is frequently +mentioned in Greek and Latin poetry and prose. Because of its use for +anointing, Shakespeare referred to it in the glorious lines (King +Richard II., act iii, scene 2): + + "Not all the water in the rough, rude sea + Can wash the balm from an anointed king." + +As a useful plant it received attention from the pen of Pliny. From its +home it has been introduced by man as a garden plant into nearly all +temperate climates throughout the world, and is often found as an escape +from gardens where introduced--occasionally in this role in the earliest +settled of the United States. Very few well-marked varieties have been +produced. A variegated one, now grown for ornament as well as for +culinary purposes, is probably the same as that mentioned by Mawe in +1778. + +_Description._--The roots are small and fibrous; the stems, about 18 +inches tall, very numerous, erect or spreading, square; the leaves, +green (except as mentioned), broadly ovate with toothed margins, +opposite, rather succulent, highly scented; the flowers, few, whitish, +or purplish, in small, loose, axillary, one-sided clusters borne from +midsummer until late autumn; the seeds very small--more than 50,000 to +the ounce. + +_Cultivation._--Balm is readily propagated by means of divisions, +layers, cuttings, and by its seeds, which germinate fairly well even +when four years old. Owing to its small size, the seed should be planted +in a seedpan or flat in a greenhouse or hotbed, where all conditions can +be controlled. The soil should be made very fine and friable, the thinly +scattered seeds merely pressed upon the surface with a block or a brick, +and water applied preferably through the bottom of the seedpan, which +may be set in a shallow dish of water until the surface of the soil +_begins_ to appear moist. + +When an inch tall the seedlings should be pricked out 2 inches apart in +other, deeper flats and when about 4 inches tall set in the garden about +1 foot asunder in rows about 18 inches apart. When once established they +may be increased readily by the artificial means mentioned. (See page +34.) Ordinary clean cultivation throughout the season, the removal of +dead parts, and care to prevent the plants from spreading unduly, are +the only requisites of cultivation. Preferably the soil should be poor, +rather dry, little if at all enriched and in a sunny place. The foliage +of seedling plants or plants newly spring-set should be ready for use by +midsummer; that of established plants from early spring until late +autumn. For home use and market it should be cured as recommended on +page 25, the leaves being very thinly spread and plentifully supplied +with air because of their succulence. The temperature should be rather +low. + +_Uses._--The foliage is widely used for flavoring soups, stews, sauces, +and dressings, and, when fresh, to a small extent with salads. Otto or +oil of balm, obtained by aqueous distillation from the "hay," is a pale +yellow, essential and volatile oil highly prized in perfumery for its +lemon-like odor, and is extensively employed for flavoring various +beverages. + +=Basil= (_Ocymum basilicum_, Linn.), an annual herb of the order Labiatae. +The popular name, derived from the specific, signifies royal or kingly, +probably because of the plant's use in feasts. In France it is known as +herb royale, royal herb. The generic name is derived from _Oza_, a Greek +word signifying odor. + +The plant is a native of tropical Asia, where for centuries, especially +in India, it has been highly esteemed as a condiment. Probably the early +Greek and Roman writers were well acquainted with it, but commentators +are not decided. They suppose that the _Okimon_ of Hippocrates, +Dioscorides and Theophrastus is the same as _Ocimum hortense_ of +Columella and Varro. + +The plant's introduction into England was about 1548, or perhaps a +little earlier, but probably not prior to 1538, because Turner does not +mention it in his "Libellus," published in that year. It seems to have +grown rapidly in popularity, for in 1586 Lyte speaks of it as if well +known. In America it has been cultivated somewhat for about a century +partly because of its fragrant leaves which are employed in bouquets, +but mainly for flavoring culinary concoctions. In Australia it is also +more or less grown, and in countries where French commerce or other +interests have penetrated it is well known. + +[Illustration: Sweet Basil] + +There are several related species which, in America less than in Europe +or the East, have attracted attention. The most important of these is +dwarf or bush basil (_O. minimum_, Linn.), a small Chilian species also +reported from Cochin China. It was introduced into cultivation in Europe +in 1573. On account of its compact form it is popular in gardens as an +edging as well as a culinary herb, for more than a century it has been +grown in America. Sacred basil (_O. sanctum_), an oriental species, is +cultivated near temples in India and its odoriferous oil extracted for +religious uses. Formerly the common species was considered sacred by the +Brahmins who used it especially in honor of Vishnu and in funeral rites. +An African species, _O. fruticosum_, is highly valued at the Cape of +Good Hope for its perfume. + +_Description._--From the small, fibrous roots the square stems stand +erect about 1 foot tall. They are very branching and leafy. The leaves +are green, except as noted below, ovate, pointed, opposite, somewhat +toothed, rather succulent and highly fragrant. The little white flowers +which appear in midsummer are racemed in leafy whorls, followed by small +black fruits, popularly called seeds. These, like flaxseed, emit a +mucilaginous substance when soaked in water. About 23,000 weigh an +ounce, and 10 ounces fill a pint. Their vitality lasts about eight +years. + +Like most of the other culinary herbs, basil has varied little in +several centuries; there are no well-marked varieties of modern origin. +Only three varieties of common basil are listed in America; Vilmorin +lists only five French ones. Purple basil has lilac flowers, and when +grown in the sun also purple leaf stems and young branches. +Lettuce-leaved basil has large, pale-green blistered and wrinkled leaves +like those of lettuce. Its closely set clusters of flowers appear +somewhat late. The leaves are larger and fewer than in the common +variety. + +The dwarf species is more compact, branching and dainty than the common +species. It has three varieties; one with deep violet foliage and stems +and lilac white flowers, and two with green leaves, one very dense and +compact. + +East Indian, or Tree Basil (_O. gratissimum_, Linn.), a well-known +species in the Orient, seems to have a substitute in _O. suave_, also +known by the same popular name, and presumably the species cultivated in +Europe and to some extent in America. It is an upright, branching +annual, which forms a pyramidal bush about 20 inches tall and often 15 +inches in diameter. It favors very warm situations and tropical +countries. + +_Cultivation._--Basil is propagated by seeds. Because these are very +small, they are best sown in flats under glass, covered lightly with +finely sifted soil and moistened by standing in a shallow pan of water +until the surface shows a wet spot. When about an inch tall, the +seedlings must be pricked out 2 inches apart each way in larger-sized +flats. When 3 inches tall they will be large enough for the garden, +where they should be set 1 foot asunder in rows 15 to 18 inches apart. +Often the seed is sown in the mellow border as early in the spring as +the ground can be worked. This method demands perhaps more attention +than the former, because of weeds and because the rows cannot be easily +seen. When transplanting, preference should be given to a sunny +situation in a mellow, light, fertile, rather dry soil thoroughly well +prepared and as free from weeds as possible. From the start the ground +must be kept loose, open and clean. When the plants meet in the rows +cultivation may stop. + +First gatherings of foliage should begin by midsummer when the plants +start to blossom. Then they may be cut to within a few inches of the +ground. The stumps should develop a second and even a third crop if care +is exercised to keep the surface clean and open. A little dressing of +quickly available fertilizer applied at this time is helpful. For seed +some of the best plants should be left uncut. The seed should ripen by +mid-autumn. + +For winter use plants may be transplanted from the garden, or seedlings +may be started in September. The seeds should be sown two to the inch +and the seedlings transplanted to pots or boxes. A handy pot is the +4-inch standard; this is large enough for one plant. In flats the plants +should be 5 or 6 inches apart each way. + +_Uses._--Basil is one of the most popular herbs in the French cuisine. +It is especially relished in mock turtle soup, which, when correctly +made, derives its peculiar taste chiefly from the clovelike flavor of +basil. In other highly seasoned dishes, such as stews and dressings, +basil is also highly prized. It is less used in salads. A golden yellow +essential oil, which reddens with age, is extracted from the leaves for +uses in perfumery more than in the kitchen. + +The original and famous Fetter Lane sausages, formerly popular with +Cockney epicures, owed their reputation mainly to basil. During the +reigns of Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth farmers grew basil in pots +and presented them with compliments to their landladies when these paid +their visits. + +[Illustration: Borage, Famous for "Cool Tankard"] + +=Borage= (_Borago officinalis_, Linn.), a coarse, hardy, annual herb of +the natural order Boraginaceae. Its popular name, derived from the +generic, is supposed by some to have come from a corruption of _cor_, +the heart, and _ago_, to affect, because of its former use as a cordial +or heart-fortifying medicine. _Courage_ is from the same source. The +Standard Dictionary, however, points to _burrago_, rough, and relates it +indirectly by cross references to _birrus_, a thick, coarse woolen cloth +worn by the poor during the thirteenth century. The roughness of the +full-grown leaves suggests flannel. Whichever derivation be correct, +each is interesting as implying qualities, intrinsic or attributed, to +the plant. + +The specific name indicates its obsolete use in medicine. It is one of +the numerous plants which have shaken off the superstitions which a +credulous populace wreathed around them. Almost none but the least +enlightened people now attribute any medicinal virtues whatever to it. + +The plant is said to come originally from Aleppo, but for centuries has +been considered a native of Mediterranean Europe and Africa, whence it +has become naturalized throughout the world by Europeans, who grew it +probably more for medicinal than for culinary purposes. According to +Ainslie, it was among the species listed by Peter Martyr as planted on +Isabella Island by Columbus's companions. The probability is that it was +also brought to America by the colonists during Queen Elizabeth's time. +It has been listed in American seedsmen's catalogues since 1806, but the +demand has always been small and the extent to which it is cultivated +very limited. + +_Description._--Borage is of somewhat spreading habit, branchy, about 20 +inches tall. Its oval or oblong-lanceolate leaves and other green parts +are covered with whitish, rather sharp, spreading hairs. The flowers, +generally blue, sometimes pink, violet-red, or white, are loosely +racemed at the extremities of the branches and main stems. + + "The flaming rose glooms swarthy red; + The borage gleams more blue; + And low white flowers, with starry head, + Glimmer the rich dusk through." + + --_George MacDonald_ + _"Songs of the Summer Night," Part III_ + +The seeds are rather large, oblong, slightly curved, and a ridged and +streaked grayish-brown. They retain their vitality for about eight +years. + +_Cultivation._--No plant is more easily grown. The seed need only be +dropped and covered in any soil, from poor to rich, and the plants will +grow like weeds, and even become such if allowed to have sway. Borage +seems, however, to prefer rather light, dry soils, waste places and +steep banks. Upon such the flavor of the flowers is declared to be +superior to that produced upon richer ground, which develops a ranker +growth of foliage. + +In the garden the seeds are sown about 1/2 inch asunder and in rows 15 +inches apart. Shortly after the plants appear they are thinned to stand +3 inches apart, the thinnings being cooked like spinach, or, if small +and delicate, they may be made into salads. Two other thinnings may be +given for similar purposes as the plants grow, so that at the final +thinning the specimens will stand about a foot asunder. Up to this time +the ground is kept open and clean by cultivation; afterwards the borage +will usually have possession. + +_Uses._--More popular than the use of the foliage as a potherb and a +salad is the employment of borage blossoms and the tender upper leaves, +in company or not with those of nasturtium, as a garnish or an ornament +to salads, and still more as an addition to various cooling drinks. The +best known of these beverages is cool tankard, composed of wine, water, +lemon juice, sugar and borage flowers. To this "they seem to give +additional coolness." They are often used similarly in lemonade, negus, +claret-cup and fruit juice drinks. + +The plant has possibly a still more important though undeveloped use as +a bee forage. It is so easily grown and flowers so freely that it should +be popular with apiarists, especially those who own or live near waste +land, dry and stony tracts which they could sow to it. For such places +it has an advantage over the many weeds which generally dispute +possession in that it may be readily controlled by simple cultivation. +It generally can hold its own against the plant populace of such places. + +=Caraway= (_Carum carui_, Linn.), a biennial or an annual herb of the +natural order Umbelliferae. Its names, both popular and botanical, are +supposed to be derived from Caria, in Asia Minor, where the plant is +believed first to have attracted attention. From very early ages the +caraway has been esteemed by cooks and doctors, between which a friendly +rivalry might seem to exist, each vying to give it prominence. At the +present time the cooks seem to be in the ascendancy; the seeds or their +oil are rarely used in modern medicine, except to disguise the flavor of +repulsive drugs. + +[Illustration: Caraway for Comfits and Birthday Cakes] + +Since caraway seeds were found by O'Heer in the debris of the lake +habitations of Switzerland, the fact seems well established that the +plant is a native of Europe and the probability is increased that the +_Careum_ of Pliny is this same plant, as its use by Apicus would also +indicate. It is mentioned in the twelfth-century writings as grown in +Morocco, and in the thirteenth by the Arabs. As a spice, its use in +England seems to have begun at the close of the fourteenth century. From +its Asiatic home it spread first with Phoenician commerce to western +Europe, whence by later voyageurs it has been carried throughout the +civilized world. So widely has it been distributed that the traveler may +find it in the wilds of Iceland and Scandinavia, the slopes of sunny +Spain, the steeps of the Himalayas, the veldt of southern Africa, the +bush of Australia, the prairies and the pampas of America. + +Caraway is largely cultivated in Morocco, and is an important article of +export from Russia, Prussia, and Holland. It has developed no clearly +marked varieties; some specimens, however, seem to be more distinctly +annual than others, though attempts to isolate these and thus secure a +quick-maturing variety seem not to have been made. + +_Description._--The fleshy root, about 1/2 inch in diameter, is +yellowish externally, whitish within, and has a slight carroty taste. +From it a rosette of finely pinnated leaves is developed, and later the +sparsely leaved, channeled, hollow, branching flower stem which rises +from 18 to 30 inches and during early summer bears umbels of little +white flowers followed by oblong, pointed, somewhat curved, light brown +aromatic fruits--the caraway "seeds" of commerce. These retain their +germinating power for about three years, require about 10,000 seeds to +make an ounce and fifteen ounces to the quart. + +_Cultivation._--Frequently, if not usually, caraway is sown together +with coriander in the same drills on heavy lands during May or early +June. The coriander, being a quick-maturing plant, may be harvested +before the caraway throws up a flowering stem. Thus two crops may be +secured from the same land in the same time occupied by the caraway +alone. Ordinary thinning to 6 or 8 inches between plants is done when +the seedlings are established. Other requirements of the crop are all +embraced in the practices of clean cultivation. + +Harvest occurs in July of the year following the seeding. The plants are +cut about 12 inches above ground with sickles, spread on sheets to dry +for a few days, and later beaten with a light flail. After threshing, +the seed must be spread thinly and turned daily until the last vestige +of moisture has evaporated. From 400 to 800 pounds is the usual range of +yield. + +If seed be sown as soon as ripe, plants may be secured which mature +earlier than the main crop. Thus six or eight weeks may be saved in the +growing season, and by continuing such selection a quick-maturing strain +may be secured with little effort. This would also obviate the trouble +of keeping seed from one year to the next, for the strain would be +practically a winter annual. + +_Uses._--Occasionally the leaves and young shoots are eaten either +cooked or as an ingredient in salads. The roots, too, have been esteemed +in some countries, even more highly than the parsnip, which, however, +largely because of its size, has supplanted it for this purpose. But the +seeds are the important part. They find popular use in bread, cheese, +liquors, salads, sauces, soups, candy, and especially in seed cakes, +cookies and comfits. The colorless or pale yellow essential oil +distilled with water from the seeds, which contain between 5% and 7-1/2% +of it, has the characteristic flavor and odor of the fruit. It is +extensively employed in the manufacture of toilet articles, such as +perfumery, and especially soaps. + +=Catnip=, or =cat mint= (_Nepeta cataria_, Linn.), a perennial herb of the +natural order Labiatae. The popular name is in allusion to the attraction +the plant has for cats. They not only eat it, but rub themselves upon it +purring with delight. The generic name is derived from the Etrurian city +Neptic, in the neighborhood of which various species of the genus +formerly became prominent. + +Like several of its relatives catnip is a well-known weed. It has become +naturalized in America, and is most frequently observed in dry, waste +places, especially in the East, though it is also often found in gardens +and around dwellings throughout the United States and Canada. + +_Description._--Its erect, square, branching stems, from 18 to 36 inches +tall, bear notched oval or heartshaped leaves, whitish below, and during +late summer terminal clusters of white flowers in small heads, far +apart below, but crowded close above. The fruits are small, brown, +ovoid, smooth and with three clearly defined angles. An ounce contains +about 3,400 seeds. Viability lasts for five years. + +[Illustration: Catnip, Pussy's Delight] + +_Cultivation._ Catnip will grow with the most ordinary attention on any +fairly dry soil. The seed need only be sown in autumn or spring where +the plants are to remain or in a nursery bed for subsequent +transplanting. If to be kept in a garden bed they should stand 18 to 24 +inches apart each way. Nothing is needful except to keep down weeds in +order to have them succeed for several years on the same spot. + +_Uses._--The most important use of the plant is as a bee forage; for +this purpose waste places are often planted to catnip. As a condiment +the leaves were formerly in popular use, especially in the form of +sauces; but milder flavors are now more highly esteemed. Still, the +French use catnip to a considerable extent. Like many of its relatives, +catnip was a popular medicinal remedy for many fleshly ills; now it is +practically relegated to domestic medicine. Even in this it is a +moribund remedy for infant flatulence, and is clung to only by +unlettered nurses of a passing generation. + +=Chervil= (_Scandix Cerefolium_, Linn.), a southern Europe annual, with +stems about 18 inches tall and bearing few divided leaves composed of +oval, much-cut leaflets. The small white flowers, borne in umbels, are +followed by long, pointed, black seeds with a conspicuous furrow from +end to end. These seeds, which retain their germinability about three +years, but are rather difficult to keep, may be sown where the plants +are to stay, at any season, about eight weeks before a crop is desired; +cultivation is like that of parsley. During summer and in warm climates, +cool, shady situations should be chosen, otherwise any situation and +soil are suitable. The leaves, which are highly aromatic, are used, +especially in France and England, for seasoning and for mixed salads. +Chervil is rarely used alone, but is the chief ingredient in what the +French call _fines herbes_, a mixture which finds its way into a host of +culinary concoctions. The best variety is the Curled, which, though it +has the same flavor as the plain, is a prettier garnish. + +=Chives= (_Allium Schoenoprasum_, Linn.), a bulbous, onion-like +perennial belonging to the Liliaceae. Naturally the plants form thick +tufts of abundant, hollow, grasslike leaves from their little oval bulbs +and mat of fibrous roots. The short flower stems bear terminal clusters +of generally sterile flowers. Hence the plants are propagated by +planting the individual bulbs or by division of clumps in early spring. +Frequently chives are planted in flower borders as an edging, for which +purpose the compact growth and dainty flowers particularly recommend +them. They should not be allowed to grow in the same place more than +three years. + +Strictly speaking, chives do not belong with the herbs, but their leaves +are so frequently used instead of onions for flavoring salads, stews and +other dishes, and reference has been so often made to them in these +pages, that a brief description has been included. For market the clumps +are cut in squares and the whole plant sold. Treated in this way the +greengrocers can keep them in good condition by watering until sold. For +use the leaves are cut with shears close to the ground. If allowed to +stand in the garden, cuttings may be made at intervals of two or three +weeks all through the season. + +=Clary= (_Salvia sclarea_, Linn.), a perennial herb of the natural order +Labiatae. The popular name is a corruption of the specific. In the +discussion on sage will be found the significance of the generic name. +Syria is said to be the original home of clary, but Italy is also +mentioned. The presumption is in favor of the former country, as it is +the older, and the plant was probably carried westward from it by +soldiers or merchants. In England clary was known prior to 1538, when +Turner published his garden lore, but in America, except in foreigners' +gardens, it is rarely seen. It has been listed in seedsmen's catalogs +since 1806. + +_Description._--The large, very broad, oblong, obtuse, toothed, woolly +haired, radical leaves are grayish green and somewhat rumpled like those +of Savoy cabbage. From among them rise the 2-foot tall, square, +branching, sparsely leaved stems, which during the second year bear +small clusters of lilac or white showy flowers in long spikes. The +smooth brown or marbled shining seeds retain their germinating power for +three years. + +_Cultivation._--The plants thrive in any well-drained soil. Seed may be +sown during March in drills 18 inches apart where the plants are to +remain or in a seedbed for transplanting 18 inches asunder in May. Clean +cultivation is needed throughout the summer until the plants have full +possession of the ground. In August the leaves may be gathered, and if +this harvest be judiciously done the production of foliage should +continue until midsummer of the second year, when the plants will +probably insist upon flowering. After this it is best to rely upon new +plants for supplies of leaves, the old plants being pulled. + +_Uses._--In America, the leaves are little used in cookery, and even in +Europe they seem to be less popular than formerly, sage having taken +their place. Wine is sometimes made from the plant when in flower. As an +ornamental, clary is worth a place in the hardy flower border. + +[Illustration: Coriander, for Old-Fashioned Candies] + +=Coriander= (_Coriandrum sativum_, Linn.), "a plant of little beauty and +of easiest culture," is a hardy annual herb of the natural order +Umbelliferae. The popular name is derived from the generic, which comes +from the ancient Greek Koris, a kind of bug, in allusion to the +disagreeable odor of the foliage and other green parts. The specific +name refers to its cultivation in gardens. Hence the scientific name +declares it to be the cultivated buggy-smelling plant. + +Coriander has been cultivated from such ancient times that its land of +nativity is unknown, though it is said to be a native of southern Europe +and of China. It has been used in cookery and of course, too, in +medicine; for, according to ancient reasoning, anything with so +pronounced and unpleasant an odor must necessarily possess powerful +curative or preventive attributes! Its seeds have been found in Egyptian +tombs of the 21st dynasty. Many centuries later Pliny wrote that the +best quality of seed still came to Italy from Egypt. Prior to the Norman +conquest in 1066, the plant was well known in Great Britain, probably +having been taken there by the early Roman conquerors. Before 1670 it +was introduced into Massachusetts. During this long period of +cultivation there seems to be no record or even indication of varieties. +In many temperate and tropical countries it has become a frequent weed +in cultivated fields. + +_Description._--From a cluster of slightly divided radical leaves +branching stems rise to heights of 2 to 2-1/2 feet. Toward their summits +they bear much divided leaves, with linear segments and umbels of small +whitish flowers, followed by pairs of united, hemispherical, +brownish-yellow, deeply furrowed "seeds," about the size of a sweet pea +seed. These retain their vitality for five or six years. The seeds do +not have the unpleasant odor of the plant, but have a rather agreeable +smell and a moderately warm, pungent taste. + +_Cultivation._--Coriander, a plant of the easiest culture, does best in +a rather light, warm, friable soil. In Europe it is often sown with +caraway, which, being a biennial and producing only a rosette of leaves +at the surface of the ground the first year, is not injured when the +annual coriander is cut. The seed is often sown in the autumn, though +spring sowing is perhaps in more favor. The rows are made about 15 +inches apart, the seeds dropped 1 inch asunder and 1/2 inch deep and the +plantlets thinned to 6 or 8 inches. Since the plants run to seed +quickly, they must be watched and cut early to prevent loss and +consequent seeding of the ground. After curing in the shade the seed is +threshed as already described (see page 28). On favorable land the yield +may reach or even exceed 1,500 pounds to the acre. + +_Uses._--Some writers say the young leaves of the plant are used in +salads and for seasoning soups, dressings, etc. If this is so, I can +only remark that there is no accounting for tastes. I am inclined to +think, however, that these writers are drawing upon their imagination or +have been "stuffed" by people who take pleasure in supplying +misinformation. The odor is such as to suggest the flavor of "buggy" +raspberries we sometimes gather in the fence rows. Any person who +relishes buggy berries may perhaps enjoy coriander salad or soup. + +Only the seed is of commercial importance. It is used largely in making +comfits and other kinds of confectionery, for adding to bread, and, +especially in the East, as an ingredient in curry powder and other +condiments. In medicine its chief use now is to disguise the taste of +disagreeable drugs. Distillers use it for flavoring various kinds of +liquors. + +=Cumin= (_Cuminum Cyminum_, Linn.), a low-growing annual herb of the Nile +valley, but cultivated in the Mediterranean region, Arabia, Egypt, +Morocco, India, China, and Palestine from very early times, (See Isaiah +xviii, 25-27 and Matthew xxiii, 23.) Pliny is said to have considered it +the best appetizer of all condiments. During the middle ages it was in +very common use. All the old herbals of the sixteenth and the +seventeenth centuries figure and describe and extol it. In Europe it is +extensively cultivated in Malta and Sicily, and will mature seed as far +north as Norway; in America, today, the seed is cataloged by some +seedsmen, but very little is grown. + +_Description._--The plant is very diminutive, rarely exceeding a height +of 6 inches. Its stems, which branch freely from the base, bear mere +linear leaves and small lilac flowers, in little umbels of 10 to 20 +blossoms each. The six-ribbed, elongated "seeds" in appearance resemble +caraway seeds, but are straighter, lighter and larger, and in formation +are like the double seeds of coriander, convex on one side and concave +on the other. They bear long hairs, which fold up when the seed is dry. + +After the seed has been kept for two years it begins to lose its +germinating power, but will sprout reasonably well when three years old. +It is characterized by a peculiar, strong aromatic odor, and a hot +taste. + +_Culture._--As soon as the ground has become warm the seed is sown in +drills about 15 inches apart where the plants are to remain. Except for +keeping down the weeds no further attention is necessary. The plants +mature in about two months, when the stems are cut and dried in the +shade. (See page 28.) The seeds are used in India as an ingredient in +curry powder, in France for flavoring pickles, pastry and soups. + +[Illustration: Dill, of Pickle Fame] + +=Dill= (_Anethum graveolens_, Linn.), a hardy annual, native of the +Mediterranean and the Black Sea regions, smaller than common fennel, +which it somewhat resembles both in appearance and in the flavor of the +green parts, which are, however, less agreeable. + +In ancient times it was grown in Palestine. The word translated, "anise" +in Matthew xxiii, 23, is said to have been "dill" in the original Greek. +It was well known in Pliny's time, and is often discussed by writers in +the middle ages. According to American writings, it has been grown in +this country for more than 100 years and has become spontaneous in many +places. + +_Description._--Ordinarily the plants grow 2 to 2-1/2 feet tall. The +glaucous, smooth, hollow, branching stems bear very threadlike leaves +and in midsummer compound umbels with numerous yellow flowers, whose +small petals are rolled inward. Very flat, pungent, bitter seeds are +freely produced, and unless gathered early are sure to stock the garden +with volunteer seedlings for the following year. Under fair storage +conditions, the seeds continue viable for three years. They are rather +light; a quart of them weighs about 11 ounces, and an ounce is said to +contain over 25,000 seeds. + +_Cultivation._--Where dill has not already been grown seed may be sown +in early spring, preferably in a warm sandy soil, where the plants are +to remain. Any well-drained soil will do. The drills should be 1 foot +apart, the seeds scattered thinly and covered very shallow; a bed 12 +feet square should supply abundance of seed for any ordinary family. To +sow this area 1/4 to 1/2 ounce of seed is ample. For field use the rows +may be 15 inches apart and the seed sown more thinly. It should not be +covered much more than 1/4 inch. Some growers favor fall sowing, because +they claim the seed is more likely to germinate than in the spring, and +also to produce better plants than spring-sown seed. + +At all times the plants must be kept free from weeds and the soil loose +and open. When three or four weeks old the seedlings are thinned to 9 +inches, or even a foot apart. As soon as the seed is ripe, shortly after +midsummer, it must be gathered with the least possible shaking and +handling, so as to prevent loss. It is well to place the stems as cut +directly in a tight-bottomed cart or a wheelbarrow, with a canvas +receptacle for the purpose, and to haul direct to the shade where drying +is to occur. A good place for this is a barn, upon the floor of which a +large canvas sheet is spread, and where a free circulation of air can be +secured. (See page 28.) + +_Uses._--The French use dill for flavoring preserves, cakes and pastry. +For these purposes it is of too strong and pronounced a character to be +relished by American palates. The seeds perhaps more often appear in +soups, sauces and stews, but even here they are relished more by our +European residents than by native Americans. Probably they are most used +in pickles, especially in preserving cucumbers according to German +recipes. Thousands of barrels of such pickles are sold annually, more +especially in the larger cities and to the poorer people; but as this +pickle is procurable at all delicatessen stores, it has gained great +popularity among even the well-to-do. An oil is distilled from the seeds +and used in perfuming soap. The young leaves are said to be used in +pickles, soups and sauces, and even in salads. For the last purpose they +are rather strong to suit most people, and for the others the seeds are +far more popular. + +Dill vinegar is a popular household condiment. It is made by soaking the +seed in good vinegar for a few days before using. The quantity of +ingredients to use is immaterial. Only a certain amount of the flavor +can be dissolved by the vinegar, and as few samples of vinegar are +alike, the quantities both to mix and of the decoction to use must be +left to the housewife. This may be said, however, that after one lot of +seed has been treated the vinegar may be poured off and the seeds +steeped a second time to get a weaker infusion. The two infusions may +then be mixed and kept in a dark cupboard for use as needed. + +=Fennel= (_Foeniculum officinale_, All.), a biennial or perennial herb, +generally considered a native of southern Europe, though common on all +Mediterranean shores. The old Latin name _Foeniculum_ is derived from +_foenum_ or hay. It has spread with civilization, especially where +Italians have colonized, and may be found growing wild in many parts of +the world, upon dry soils near the sea coast and upon river banks. + +[Illustration: Sweet Fennel] + +It seems to be partial to limestone soils, such as the chalky lands of +England and the shelly formation of Bermuda. In this latter community I +have seen it thriving upon cliffs where there seemed to be only a pinch +of soil, and where the rock was so dry and porous that it would crumble +to coarse dust when crushed in the hand. The plant was cultivated by the +ancient Romans for its aromatic fruits and succulent, edible shoots. +Whether cultivated in northern Europe at that time is not certain, but +it is frequently mentioned in Anglo-Saxon cookery prior to the Norman +conquest. Charlemagne ordered its culture upon the imperial farms. At +present it is most popular in Italy, and France. In America it is in +most demand among French and Italians. Like many other plants, fennel +has had a highly interesting career from a medical point of view. But it +no longer plays even a "small part" in the drama. Hints as to its +history may be found on page 54. + +_Description._--Common garden or long, sweet fennel is distinguished +from its wild or better relative (_F. vulgare_) by having much stouter, +taller (5 to 6 feet) tubular and larger stems, less divided, more +glaucous leaves. But a still more striking difference is seen in the +leaf stalks which form a curved sheath around the stem even as far up as +the base of the leaf above. Then, too, the green flowers are borne on +more sturdy pedicels in the broader umbels, lastly the seeds are double +the size of the wild fennel seeds, 1/4 or 1/2 inch long. They are convex +on one side, flat on the other, and are marked by five yellowish ribs. +Though a French writer says the seed degenerates "promptly," and +recommends the use of fresh seed annually, it will not be wise to throw +away any where it is not wanted to germinate, unless it is over four +years old, as seed as old even as that is said to be satisfactory for +planting. + +_Cultivation._--In usual garden practice fennel is propagated by seeds, +and is grown as an annual instead of as a biennial or a perennial. The +plants will flourish in almost any well-drained soil, but seem to prefer +light loams of a limy nature. It is not particular as to exposure. The +seed may be sown in nursery beds or where the plants are to remain. In +the beds, the drills may be 6 inches apart, and not more than 1-3 inch +deep, or the seed may be scattered broadcast. An ounce will be enough +for a bed 10 feet square. When the plants are about 3 inches tall they +should be transplanted 15 or 18 inches asunder in rows 2 to 2-1/2 feet +apart. Some growers sow in late summer and in autumn so as to have early +crops the following season; they also make several successional sowings +at intervals of one or two weeks, in order to supply the demands of +their customers for fresh fennel stalks from midsummer to December or +even later. The plants will grow more or less in very cold, that is, not +actually freezing weather. + +If sown in place, the rows should be the suggested 2 to 2-1/2 feet +apart, and the plants thinned several times until the required distance +is reached. Thinnings may be used for culinary purposes. For family use +half an ounce of seed, if fairly fresh, will produce an ample supply of +plants, and for several years, either from the established roots or by +reseeding. Unless seed is needed for household or sowing purposes, the +flower stems should be cut as soon as they appear. + +_Uses._--Fennel is considered indispensable in French and Italian +cookery. The young plants and the tender leaves are often used for +garnishes and to add flavor to salads. They are also minced and added to +sauces usually served with puddings. The tender stems and the leaves are +employed in soups and fish sauces, though more frequently they are eaten +raw as a salad with or without dressing. The famous "Carosella" of +Naples consists of the stems cut when the plant is about to bloom. +These stems are considered a great delicacy served raw with the leaf +stalks still around them. Oil, vinegar and pepper are eaten with them. +By sowing at intervals of a week or 10 days Italian gardeners manage to +have a supply almost all the year. + +The seeds are used in cookery, confectionery and for flavoring liquors. +Oil of fennel, a pale yellow liquid, with a sweetish aromatic odor and +flavor, is distilled with water. It is used in perfumery and for +scenting soaps. A pound of oil is the usual yield of 500 pounds of the +plant. + +=Finocchio=, or =Florence fennel= (_F. dulce_, D. C.), deserves special +mention here. It appears to be a native of Italy, a distinct dwarf +annual, very thick-set herb. The stem joints are so close together and +their bases so swelled as to suggest malformation. Even when full grown +and producing seed, the plant rarely exceeds 2 feet. The large, finely +cut, light green leaves are borne on very broad, pale green or almost +whitish stalks, which overlap at their bases, somewhat like celery, but +much more swelled at edible maturity, to form a sort of head or +irregular ball, the "apple," as it is called, sometimes as large as a +man's fist. The seeds are a peculiar oblong, much broader than long, +convex on one side and flat on the other, with five conspicuous ribs. + +Cultivation is much the same as for common fennel, though owing to the +dwarf nature of the plant the rows and the plants may be closer +together. The seedlings should be 5 or 6 inches asunder. They are very +thirsty things and require water frequently. When the "apple" attains +the size of an egg, earth may be drawn up slightly to the base, which +may be about half covered; cutting may begin about 10 days later. +Florence fennel is generally boiled and served with either a butter or a +cream dressing. It suggests celery in flavor, but is sweeter and is even +more pleasingly fragrant. In Italy it is one of the commonest and most +popular of vegetables. In other European countries it is also well +known, but in America its cultivation is almost confined to Italian +gardens or to such as supply Italian demands in the large cities. In New +York it is commonly sold by greengrocers and pushcart men in the Italian +sections. + +=Fennel Flower= (_Nigella sativa_, Linn.), an Asiatic annual, belonging to +the Ranunculaceae, grown to a limited extent in southern Europe, but +scarcely known in America. Among the Romans it was esteemed in cookery, +hence one of its common names, Roman coriander. The plant has a rather +stiff, erect, branching stem, bears deeply cut grayish-green leaves and +terminal grayish-blue flowers, which precede odd, toothed, seed vessels +filled with small, triangular, black, highly aromatic seeds. For garden +use the seed is sown in spring after the ground gets warm. The drills +may be 15 to 18 inches apart and the plants thinned to 10 or 12 inches +asunder. No special attention is necessary until midsummer, when the +seed ripens. These are easily threshed and cleaned. After drying they +should be stored in sacks in a cool, dry place. They are used just as +they are or like dill in cookery. + +=Hoarhound=, or =horehound= (_Marrubium vulgare_, Linn.), a perennial plant +of the natural order Labiatae, formerly widely esteemed in cookery and +medicine, but now almost out of use except for making candy which some +people still eat in the belief that it relieves tickling in the throat +due to coughing. In many parts of the world hoarhound has become +naturalized on dry, poor soils, and is even a troublesome weed in such +situations. Bees are very partial to hoarhound nectar, and make a +pleasing honey from the flowers where these are abundant. This honey has +been almost as popular as hoarhound candy, and formerly was obtainable +at druggists. Except in isolated sections, it has ceased to be sold in +the drug stores. The generic name _Marrubium_ is derived from a Hebrew +word meaning bitter. The flavor is so strong and lasting that the modern +palate wonders how the ancient mouth could stand such a thing in +cookery. + +The numerous branching, erect stems and the almost square, toothed, +grayish-green leaves are covered with a down from which the common name +hoarhound is derived. The white flowers, borne in axillary clusters +forming whorls and spikes, are followed by small, brown, oblong seeds +pointed at one end. These may be sown up to the third year after +ripening with the expectation that they will grow. Spring is the usual +time for sowing. A dry, poor soil, preferably exposed to the south, +should be chosen. The plants may stand 12 to 15 inches apart. After once +becoming established no further attention need be given except to +prevent seed forming, thus giving the plant less chance to become a +nuisance. Often the clumps may be divided or layers or cuttings may be +used for propagation. No protection need be given, as the plants are +hardy. + +An old author gives the following recipe for hoarhound candy: To one +pint of a strong decoction of the leaves and stems or the roots add 8 or +10 pounds of sugar. Boil to candy height and pour into molds or small +paper cases previously well dusted with finely powdered lump sugar, or +pour on dusted marble slabs and cut in squares. + +=Hyssop= (_Hyssopus officinalis_, Linn.), a perennial evergreen undershrub +of the Labiatae, native of the Mediterranean region. Though well known in +ancient times, this plant is probably not the one known as hyssop in +Biblical writings. According to the Standard Dictionary the Biblical +"hyssop" is "an unidentified plant ... thought by some to have been a +species of marjoram (_Origanum maru_); by others, the caper-bush +(_Capparis spinosa_); and by the author of the 'History of Bible +Plants,' to have been the name of any common article in the form of a +brush or a broom." In ancient and medieval times hyssop was grown for +its fancied medicinal qualities, for ornament and for cookery. Except +for ornament, it is now very little cultivated. Occasionally it is found +growing wild in other than Mediterranean countries. + +_Description._--The smooth, simple stems, which grow about 2 feet tall, +bear lanceolate-linear, entire leaves and small clusters of usually +blue, though sometimes pink or white flowers, crowded in terminal +spikes. The small, brown, glistening three-angled seeds, which have a +little white hilum near their apices, retain their viability three +years. Leaves, stems and flowers possess a highly aromatic odor and a +hot, bitter flavor. + +_Cultivation._--Hyssop succeeds best in rather warm, limy soil. It may +be readily propagated by division, cuttings, and seed. In cold climates +the last way is the most common. Seed is sown in early spring, either in +a cold frame or in the open ground, and the seedlings transplanted in +early summer. Even where the plants survive the winters, it is advisable +to renew them every three or four years. When grown in too rich soil, +the growth will be very lush and will lack aroma. Plants should stand +not closer than 6 inches in the rows, which should be at least 18 inches +apart. They do best in partial shade. + +_Uses._--Hyssop has almost entirely disappeared from culinary practice +because it is too strong-flavored. Its tender leaves and shoots are, +however, occasionally added to salads, to supply a bitter taste. The +colorless oil distilled from the leaves has a peculiar odor and an +acrid, camphorescent taste. Upon contact with the air it turns yellow +and changes to a resin. From 400 to 500 pounds of the fresh plant yield +a pound of oil. The oil is used to some extent in the preparation of +toilet articles. + +=Lavender=, (_Lavendula vera_, D. C.; _L. Angustifolia_, Moench.; _L. +spica_, Linn.), a half-hardy perennial undershrub, native of dry, +calcareous uplands in southern Europe. Its name is derived from the +Latin word _Lavo_, to wash, a distillation of the flowers being +anciently used in perfuming water for washing the body. The plant forms +a compact clump 2 to 2-1/2 feet tall, has numerous erect stems, bearing +small, linear gray leaves, above which the slender, square, flower stems +arise. The small violet-blue flowers are arranged in a short, terminal +spike, and are followed by little brown, oblong, shiny seeds, with white +dots at the ends, attached to the plant. The seeds remain viable for +about five years. + +_Cultivation._--Lavender succeeds best on light, limy or chalky soil, +but will do well in any good loam. In gardens it is usually employed as +an edging for flower beds, and is most frequently propagated by division +or cuttings, seed being used only to get a start where plants cannot be +secured in the other ways mentioned. In cold climates the plants must +either be protected or removed to a greenhouse, or at least a cold +frame, which can be covered in severe weather. The seed is sown indoors +during March, and if crowding, pricked out 2 inches asunder. When the +ground has become warm, the plants are set in the open 15 to 20 inches +asunder. It delights in a sunny situation, and is most fragrant on poor +soil. Rich soil makes the plant larger but the flowers poorer in +perfume. + +_Uses._--The plant is sometimes grown for a condiment and an addition to +salads, dressings, etc., but its chief use is in perfumery, the flowers +being gathered and either dried for use in sachet bags or distilled for +their content of oil. In former years no girl was supposed to be ready +for marriage until, with her own hands, she had made her own linen and +stored it with lavender. And in some sections the lavender is still +used, though the linen is nowadays purchased. + +In southern France and in England considerable areas are devoted to +lavender for the perfumery business. The flower stems are cut in August, +covered at once with bast matting to protect them from the sun and taken +to the stills to obtain the thin, pale yellow, fragrant oil. +Four-year-old plants yield the greatest amount of oil, but the product +is greater from a two-year plantation than from an older one, the plants +then being most vigorous. Two grades of oil are made, the best being +used for lavender water, the poorer for soap making. In a good season +about one pound of oil is obtained from 150 to 200 pounds of the cut +plants. + +=Lovage= (_Levisticum officinale_, Koch.), a perennial, native of the +Mediterranean region. The large, dark-green, shining radical leaves are +usually divided into two or three segments. Toward the top the thick, +hollow, erect stems divide to form opposite, whorled branches which bear +umbels of yellow flowers, followed by highly aromatic, hollowed fruits +("seeds") with three prominent ribs. Propagation is by division or by +seeds not over three years old. In late summer when the seed ripens, it +is sown and the seedlings transplanted either in the fall or as early in +spring as possible to their permanent places. Rich, moist soil is +needed. Root division is performed in early spring. With cultivation and +alternation like that given to Angelica, the plants should last for +several years. + +Formerly lovage was used for a great variety of purposes, but nowadays +it is restricted almost wholly to confectionery, the young stems being +handled like those of Angelica. So far as I have been able to learn, the +leaf stalks and stem bases, which were formerly blanched like celery, +are no longer used in this way. + +=Marigold= (_Calendula officinalis_, Linn.), an annual herb of the natural +order Compositae, native of southern Europe. Its Latin name, suggestive +of its flowering habit, signifies blooming through the months. Our word +calendar is of the same derivation. Its short stems, about 12 inches +tall, branch near their bases, bear lanceolate, oblong, unpleasantly +scented leaves, and showy yellow or orange flowers in heads. The curved, +gray seeds, which are rough, wrinkled and somewhat spiny, retain their +germinating power for about three years. + +_Cultivation._--For the garden the seed is usually started in a hotbed +during March or April and the plants pricked out in flats 2 inches apart +and hardened off in the usual way. When the weather becomes settled they +are set a foot or 15 inches apart in rather poor soil, preferably light +and sandy, with sunny exposure. Often the seed is sown in the open and +the seedlings thinned and transplanted when about 2 inches tall. + +_Uses._--The flower heads are sometimes dried and used in broths, soups, +stews, etc., but the flavor is too pronounced for American palates. One +gardener remarked that "only a few plants are needed by a family." I +think that two would produce about twice as much as I would care to use +in a century. For culinary use the flowers are gathered when in full +bloom, dried in the shade and stored in glass jars. The fresh flowers +have often been used to color butter. + +The marigold, "homely forgotten flower, under the rose's bower, plain as +a weed," to quote Bayard Taylor, is a general favorite flowering plant, +especially in country gardens. It is so easily grown, is so free a +bloomer, and under ordinary management continues from early summer until +even hard frosts arrive, that busy farmers wives and daughters love it. +Then, too, it is one of the old-fashioned flowers, about which so many +happy thoughts cling. What more beautiful and suggestive lines could one +wish than these: + + "The marigold, whose courtier's face + Echoes the sun, and doth unlace + Her at his rise, at his full stop + Packs up and shuts her gaudy shop." + + --_John Cleveland_ + "_On Phillis Walking before Sunrise_" + + "Youth! Youth! how buoyant are thy hopes! They turn + Like marigolds toward the sunny side," + + --_Jean Ingelow_ + "_The Four Bridges_" + +=Marjoram.=--Two species of marjoram now grown for culinary purposes +(several others were formerly popular) are members of the Labiatae or +mint family--pot or perennial marjoram (_Origanum vulgare_, Linn.) and +sweet or annual (_O. Marjorana_). Really, both plants are perennials, +but sweet marjoram, because of its liability to be killed by frost, is +so commonly cultivated in cold countries as an annual that it has +acquired this name, which readily distinguishes it from its hardy +relative. Perennial marjoram is a native of Europe, but has become +naturalized in many cool and even cold temperate climates. It is often +found wild in the Atlantic states in the borders of woods. + +[Illustration: Sweet Marjoram] + +The general name _origanum_, meaning delight of the mountain, is derived +from two Greek words, _oros_, mountain; and _ganos_, joy, some of the +species being found commonly upon mountain sides. Under cultivation it +has developed a few varieties the most popular of which are a variegated +form used for ornamental purposes, and a dwarf variety noted for its +ability to come true to seed. Both varieties are used in cookery. The +perennial species seems to have had the longer association with +civilization; at least it is the one identified in the writings of +Pliny, Albertus Magnus and the English herbalists of the middle ages. +Annual marjoram is thought to be the species considered sacred in India +to Vishnu and Siva. + +_Description._--Perennial marjoram rises even 2 feet high, in branchy +clumps, bears numerous short-stemmed, ovate leaves about 1 inch long, +and terminal clusters or short spikes of little, pale lilac or pink +blossoms and purple bracts. The oval, brown seeds are very minute. They +are, however, heavy for their size, since a quart of them weighs about +24 ounces. I am told that an ounce contains more than 340,000, and would +rather believe than be forced to prove it. + +Annual marjoram is much more erect, more bush-like, has smaller, +narrower leaves, whiter flowers, green bracts and larger, but lighter +seeds--only 113,000 to the ounce and only 20 ounces to the quart! + +_Cultivation._--Perennial marjoram when once established may be readily +propagated by cuttings, division or layers, but it is so easy to grow +from seed that this method is usually employed. There is little danger +of its becoming a weed, because the seedlings are easily destroyed while +small. The seed should be sown during March or April in flats or beds +that can be protected from rain. It is merely dusted on the surface, the +soil being pressed down slightly with a board or a brick. Until the +seedlings appear, the bed should be shaded to check evaporation. When +the plants are 2 or 3 inches tall they may be transplanted to the places +where they are to remain, as they are not so easy to transplant as +lettuce and geraniums. The work should be done while the plants are very +small, and larger numbers should be set than will ultimately be allowed +to grow. I have had no difficulty in transplanting, but some people who +have had prefer to sow the seed where the plants are to stand. + +If to be used for edging, the dwarf plants may be set 3 or 6 inches +apart; the larger kinds require a foot or 15 inches in which to develop. +In field cultivation the greater distance is the more desirable. From +the very start the plants must be kept free from weeds and the soil +loose and open. Handwork is essential until they become established. The +plants will last for years. + +Annual marjoram is managed in the same kind of way as to seeding and +cultivation; but as the plant is tender, fresh sowings must be made +annually. To be sure, plants may be taken up in the fall and used for +making cuttings or layers towards spring for the following seasons beds. +As annual marjoram is somewhat smaller than the perennial kind (except +the dwarf perennial variety), the distances may be somewhat less, say 9 +or 10 inches. Annual marjoram is a quick-growing plant--so quick, in +fact, that leaves may be secured within six or eight weeks of sowing. +The flowers appear in 10 to 12 weeks, and the seed ripens soon after. + +When it is desired to cure the leaves for winter use, the stems should +be cut just as the flowers begin to appear, and dried in the usual +manner. (See page 25.) If seed is wanted, they should be cut soon after +the flowers fall or even before all have fallen--when the scales around +the seeds begin to look as if drying. The cut stems must be dried on +sheets of very fine weave, to prevent loss of seed. When the leaves are +thoroughly dry they must be thrashed and rubbed before being placed in +sieves, first of coarse, and then of finer mesh. + +_Uses._--The leaves and the flower and tender stem tips of both species +have a pleasant odor, and are used for seasoning soups, stews, dressings +and sauces. They are specially favored in France and Italy, but are +popular also in England and America. In France marjoram is cultivated +commercially for its oil, a thin, light yellow or greenish liquid, with +the concentrated odor of marjoram and peppermint. It has a warm, and +slightly bitter taste. About 200 pounds of stems and leaves are needed +to get a pound of oil. Some distillation is done in England, where 70 +pounds of the plant yield about one ounce of oil. This oil is used for +perfuming toilet articles, especially soap, but is perhaps less popular +than the essential oil of thyme. + +=Mint= (_Mentha viridis_, Linn.)--Spearmint, a member of the Labiatae, is a +very hardy perennial, native to Mediterranean countries. Its generic +name is derived from the mythological origin ascribed to it. Poets +declared that Proserpine became jealous of Cocytus's daughter, Minthe, +whom she transformed into the plant. The specific name means green, +hence the common name, green mint, often applied to it. The old Jewish +law did not require that tithes of "mint, anise and cumin" should be +paid in to the treasury, but the Pharisees paid them while omitting the +weightier matters, justice, mercy, and faith (Matthew xxiii, 23). From +this and many other references in old writings it is evident that mint +has been highly esteemed for many centuries. In the seventeenth century +John Gerarde wrote concerning it that "the smelle rejoyceth the heart of +man." Indeed, it has been so universally esteemed that it is found wild +in nearly all countries to which civilization has extended. It has been +known as an escape from American gardens for about 200 years, and is +sometimes troublesome as a weed in moist soil. + +[Illustration: Mint, Best Friend of Roast Lamb] + +_Description._--From creeping rootstocks erect square stems rise to a +height of about 2 feet, and near their summits bear spreading branches +with very short-stemmed, acute-pointed, lance-shaped, wrinkled leaves +with toothed edges, and cylindrical spikes of small pink or lilac +flowers, followed by very few, roundish, minute, brown seeds. + +_Cultivation._--The plant may be easily propagated by means of cuttings, +offsets and division in spring. They may be expected to yield somewhat +of a crop the first season, but much more the second. In field culture +they will continue profitable for several years, provided that each +autumn the tops are cut off near the ground and a liberal dressing of +manure, compost or even rich soil is given. In ordinary garden practice +it is well also to observe this plan, but usually mint is there allowed +to shift for itself, along with the horseradish and the Jerusalem +artichoke when such plants are grown. So treated, it is likely to give +trouble, because, having utilized the food in one spot, its stems seek +to migrate to better quarters. Hence, if the idea is to neglect the +plants, a corner of the garden should be chosen where there is no danger +of their becoming a nuisance. It is best to avoid all such trouble by +renewing or changing the beds every 5 or 6 years. + +Mint will grow anywhere but does best in a moist, rich loam and partial +shade. If in a sheltered spot, it will start earlier in the spring than +if exposed. Upon an extensive scale the drills should be 2 inches deep +and 12 to 15 inches apart. Bits of the rootstocks are dropped at +intervals of 6 to 12 inches in the rows and covered with a wheel hoe. +For a new plantation the rootstocks should be secured when the stems +have grown 2 or 3 inches tall. + +For forcing, the clumps are lifted in solid masses, with the soil +attached, and placed in hotbeds or forcing house benches. Three or four +inches of moist soil is worked in among and over them and watered freely +as soon as growth starts. Cuttings may be made in two or three weeks. +Often mint is so grown in lettuce and violet houses both upon and under +the benches. During winter and spring there is enough of a demand for +the young tender stems and leaves to make the plants pay. It is said +that the returns from an ordinary 3 x 6-foot hotbed sash should be $10 +to $15 for the winter. For drying, the stems should be cut on a dry day +when the plants are approaching full bloom and after the dew has +disappeared in the morning. They should be spread out very thinly in the +shade or in an airy shed. (See page 25.) If cut during damp weather, +there is danger of the leaves turning black. + +_Uses._--In both the green and the dried state mint is widely used in +Europe for flavoring soups, stews and sauces for meats of unpronounced +character. Among the Germans pulverized mint is commonly upon the table +in cruets for dusting upon gravies and soups, especially pea and bean +purees. + +In England and America the most universal use of mint is for making mint +sauce, _the_ sauce _par excellence_ with roast spring lamb. Nothing can +be simpler than to mince the tender tops and leaves very, very finely, +add to vinegar and sweeten to taste. Many people fancy they don't like +roast lamb. The chances are that they have never eaten it with wellmade +mint sauce. In recent years mint jelly has been taking the place of the +sauce, and perhaps justly, because it can not only be kept indefinitely +without deterioration, but because it looks and is more tempting. It may +be made by steeping mint leaves in apple jelly or in one of the various +kinds of commercial gelatins so popular for making cold fruit puddings. +The jelly should be a delicate shade of green. Of course, before pouring +into the jelly glasses, the liquid is strained through a jelly bag to +remove all particles of mint. A handful of leaves should color and +flavor four to six glasses full. + +=Parsley= (_Carum Petroselinum_, Linn.), a hardy biennial herb of the +natural order Umbelliferae, native to Mediterranean shores, and +cultivated for at least 2,000 years. The specific name is derived from +the habitat of the plant, which naturally grows among rocks, the Greek +word for which is _petros_. Many of the ancient writings contain +references to it, and some give directions for its cultivation. The +writings of the old herbalists of the 15th century show that in their +times it had already developed several well-defined forms and numerous +varieties, always a sure sign that a plant is popular. Throughout the +world today it is unquestionably the most widely grown of all garden +herbs, and has the largest number of varieties. In moist, moderately +cool climates, it may be found wild as a weed, but nowhere has it become +a pest. + + "Ah! the green parsley, the thriving tufts of dill; + These again shall rise, shall live the coming year." + + --_Moschus_ + +[Illustration: Curled Parsley] + +_Description._--Like most biennials, parsley develops only a rosette of +leaves during the first year. These leaves are dark green, long stalked +and divided two or three times into ovate, wedge-shaped segments, and +each division either entire, as in parsnip, or more or less finely cut +or "curled." During the second season the erect, branched, channeled +flower stems rise 2 feet or more high, and at their extremities bear +umbels of little greenish flowers. The fruits or "seeds" are light brown +or gray, convex on one side and flat on the other two, the convex side +marked with fine ribs. They retain their germinating power for three +years. An interesting fact, observed by Palladius in 210 A. D., is that +old seed germinates more freely than freshly gathered seed. + +_Cultivation._--Parsley is so easily grown that no garden, and indeed no +household, need be without it. After once passing the infant stage no +difficulty need be experienced. It will thrive in any ordinary soil and +will do well in a window box with only a moderate amount of light, and +that not even direct sunshine. Gardeners often grow it beneath benches +in greenhouses, where it gets only small amounts of light. No one need +hesitate to plant it. + +The seed is very slow in germinating, often requiring four to six weeks +unless soaked before sowing. A full day's soaking in tepid water is none +too long to wake up the germs. The drills may be made in a cold frame +during March or in the open ground during April. + +It is essential that parsley be sown very early in order to germinate at +all. If sown late, it may possibly not get enough moisture to sprout, +and if so it will fail completely. When sown in cold frames or beds for +transplanting, the rows may be only 3 or 4 inches apart, though it is +perhaps better, when such distances are chosen, to sow each alternate +row to forcing radishes, which will have been marketed by the time the +parsley seedlings appear. In the open ground the drills should be 12 to +15 inches apart, and the seed planted somewhat deeper and farther apart +than in the presumably better-prepared seedbed or cold frame. One inch +between seeds is none too little. + +In field culture and at the distances mentioned six or seven pounds of +seed will be needed for the acre. For cultivation on a smaller scale an +ounce may be found sufficient for 50 to 100 feet of drill. This quantity +should be enough for any ordinary-sized family. In all open ground +culture the radish is the parsley's best friend, because it not only +marks the rows, and thus helps early cultivation, but the radishes +break, loosen and shade the soil and thus aid the parsley plants. + +When the first thinning is done during May, the parsley plants may be +allowed to stand 2 inches asunder. When they begin to crowd at this +distance each second plant may be removed and sold. Four to six little +plants make a bunch. The roots are left on. This thinning will not only +aid the remaining plants, but should bring enough revenue to pay the +cost, perhaps even a little more. The first cutting of leaves from +plants of field-sown seed should be ready by midsummer, but as noted +below it is usually best to practice the method that will hasten +maturity and thus catch the best price. A "bunch" is about the amount +that can be grasped between the thumb and the first finger, 10 to 15 +stalks. + +It is usual to divide the field into three parts so as to have a +succession of cuttings. About three weeks are required for a new crop of +leaves to grow and mature after the plants have been cut. Larger yields +can be secured by cutting only the fully matured leaves, allowing the +others to remain and develop for later cuttings. Three or four times as +much can be gathered from a given area in this way. All plain leaves of +such plants injure the appearance and reduce the price of the bunches +when offered for sale. + +If protected from frost, the plants will yield all winter. They may be +easily transplanted in cold frames. These should be placed in some warm, +sheltered spot and the plants set in them 4 by 6 inches. Mats or +shutters will be needed in only the coldest weather. Half a dozen to a +dozen stalks make the usual bunch and retail for 2 or 3 cents. + +In the home garden, parsley may be sown as an edging for flower beds and +borders. For such purpose it is best to sow the seed thickly during late +October or November in double rows close together, say 3 or 4 inches. +Sown at that time, the plants may be expected to appear earlier than if +spring sown and to form a ribbon of verdure which will remain green not +only all the growing season, but well into winter if desired. It is +best, however, to dig them up in the fall and resow for the year +succeeding. + +For window culture, all that is needed is a box filled with rich soil. +The roots may be dug in the fall and planted in the box. A sunny window +is best, but any window will do. If space is at a premium, a nail keg +may be made to yield a large amount of leaves. Not only may the tops be +filled with plants, but the sides also. Holes should be bored in the +staves about 4 inches apart. (See illustration, page 2.) A layer of +earth is placed in the bottom as deep as the lowest tier of holes. Then +roots are pushed through these holes and a second layer of earth put in. +The process is repeated till the keg is full. Then plants are set on the +top. As the keg is being filled the earth should be packed very firmly, +both around the plants and in the keg. When full the soil should be +thoroughly soaked and allowed to drain before being taken to the window. +To insure a supply of water for all the plants, a short piece of pipe +should be placed in the center of the keg so as to reach about half way +toward the bottom. This will enable water to reach the plants placed in +the lower tiers of holes. If the leaves look yellow at any time, they +may need water or a little manure water. + +As parsley is grown for its leaves, it can scarcely be over fertilized. +Like cabbage, but, of course, upon a smaller scale, it is a gross +feeder. It demands that plenty of nitrogenous food be in the soil. That +is, the soil should be well supplied with humus, preferably derived from +decaying leguminous crops or from stable manure. A favorite commercial +fertilizer for parsley consists of 3 per cent nitrogen, 8 per cent +potash and 9 per cent phosphoric acid applied in the drills at +the rate of 600 to 900 pounds to the acre in two or three +applications--especially the nitrogen, to supply which nitrate of soda +is the most popular material. + +A common practice among market gardeners in the neighborhood of New York +has been to sow the seed in their cold frames between rows of lettuce +transplanted during March or early April. The lettuce is cut in May, by +which time the parsley is getting up. When grown by this plan the crop +may be secured four or five weeks earlier than if the seed is sown in +the open ground. The first cutting may be made during June. After this +first cutting has been made the market usually becomes overstocked and +the price falls, so many growers do not cut again until early September +when they cut and destroy the leaves preparatory to securing an autumn +and winter supply. + +When the weather becomes cool and when the plants have developed a new +and sturdy rosette of leaves, they are transplanted in shallow trenches +either in cold frames, in cool greenhouses (lettuce and violet houses), +under the benches of greenhouses, or, in fact, any convenient place that +is not likely to prove satisfactory for growing plants that require more +heat and light. + +This method, it must be said, is not now as popular near the large +cities as before the development of the great trucking fields in the +Atlantic coast states; but it is a thoroughly practical plan and well +worth practicing in the neighborhood of smaller cities and towns not +adequately supplied with this garnishing and flavoring herb. + +A fair return from a cold frame to which the plants have been +transplanted ranges from $3 to $7 during the winter months. Since many +sashes are stored during this season, such a possible return deserves to +be considered. The total annual yield from an acre by this method may +vary from $500 to $800 or even more--gross. By the ordinary field +method from $150 to $300 is the usual range. Instead of throwing away +the leaves cut in September, it should be profitable to dry these leaves +and sell them in tins or jars for flavoring. + +When it is desired to supply the demand for American seed, which is +preferred to European, the plants may be managed in any of the ways +already mentioned, either allowed to remain in the field or transplanted +to cold frames, or greenhouses. If left in the field, they should be +partially buried with litter or coarse manure. As the ground will not be +occupied more than a third of the second season, a crop of early beets, +forcing carrots, radishes, lettuce or some other quick-maturing crop may +be sown between the rows of parsley plants. Such crops will mature by +the time the parsley seed is harvested in late May or early June, and +the ground can then be plowed and fitted for some late crop such as +early maturing but late-sown sweet corn, celery, dwarf peas, late beets +or string beans. + +When seed is desired, every imperfect or undesirable plant should be +rooted out and destroyed, so that none but the best can fertilize each +other. In early spring the litter must be either removed from the plants +and the ground between the rows given a cultivation to loosen the +surface, or it may be raked between the rows and allowed to remain until +after seed harvest. In this latter case, of course, no other crop can be +grown. + +Like celery seed, parsley seed ripens very irregularly, some umbels +being ready to cut from one to three weeks earlier than others. This +quality of the plant may be bred out by keeping the earliest maturing +seed separate from the later maturing and choosing this for producing +subsequent seed crops. By such selection one to three weeks may be saved +in later seasons, a saving of time not to be ignored in gardening +operations. + +In ordinary seed production the heads are cut when the bulk of the seed +is brown or at least dark colored. The stalks are cut carefully, to +avoid shattering the seed off. They are laid upon sheets of duck or +canvas and threshed very lightly, at once, to remove only the ripest +seed. Then the stalks are spread thinly on shutters or sheets in the sun +for two days and threshed again. At that time all seed ripe enough to +germinate will fall off. Both lots of seed must be spread thinly on the +sheets in an airy shed or loft and turned daily for 10 days or two weeks +to make sure they are thoroughly dry before being screened in a fanning +mill and stored in sacks hung in a loft. + +_Varieties._--There are four well-defined groups of parsley varieties; +common or plain, curled or moss-leaved, fern-leaved, and Hamburg. The +last is also known as turnip-rooted or large-rooted. The objections to +plain parsley are that it is not as ornamental as moss-leaved or +fern-leaved sorts, and because it may be mistaken for fools parsley, a +plant reputed to be more or less poisonous. + +In the curled varieties the leaves are more or less deeply cut and the +segments reflexed to a greater or less extent, sometimes even to the +extent of showing the lighter green undersides. In this group are +several subvarieties, distinguished by minor differences, such as extent +of reflexing and size of the plants. + +In the fern-leaved group the very dark green leaves are not curled but +divided into numerous threadlike segments which give the plant a very +delicate and dainty appearance. + +Hamburg, turnip-rooted or large-rooted parsley, is little grown in +America. It is not used as a garnish or an herb, but the root is cooked +as a vegetable like carrots or beets. These roots resemble those of +parsnips. They are often 6 inches long and 2 inches in diameter. Their +cultivation is like that of parsnips. They are cooked and served like +carrots. In flavor, they resemble celeriac or turnip-rooted celery, but +are not so pleasing. In Germany the plant is rather popular, but, except +by our German gardeners, it has been little cultivated in this country. + +_Uses._--The Germans use both roots and tops for cooking; the former as +a boiled vegetable, the latter as a potherb. In English cookery the +leaves are more extensively used for seasoning fricassees and dressings +for mild meats, such as chicken and veal, than perhaps anything else. In +American cookery parsley is also popular for this purpose, but is most +extensively used as a garnish. In many countries the green leaves are +mixed with salads to add flavor. Often, especially among the Germans, +the minced green leaves are mixed with other vegetables just before +being served. For instance, if a liberal dusting of finely minced +parsley be added to peeled, boiled potatoes, immediately after draining, +this vegetable will seem like a new dish of unusual delicacy. The +potatoes may be either served whole or mashed with a little butter, milk +and pepper. + +=Pennyroyal= (_Mentha Pulegium_, Linn.), a perennial herb of the natural +order Labiatae, native of Europe and parts of Asia, found wild and +naturalized throughout the civilized world in strong, moist soil on the +borders of ponds and streams. Its square, prostrate stems, which readily +take root at the nodes, bear roundish-oval, grayish-green, slightly +hairy leaves and small lilac-blue flowers in whorled clusters of ten or +a dozen, rising in tiers, one above another, at the nodes. The seed is +light brown, oval and very small. Like most of its near relatives, +pennyroyal is highly aromatic, perhaps even more so than any other mint. +The flavor is more pungent and acrid and less agreeable than that of +spearmint or peppermint. + +Ordinarily the plant is propagated by division like mint, or more rarely +by cuttings. Cultivation is the same as that of mint. Plantations +generally last for four or five years, and even longer, when well +managed and on favorable soil. In England it is more extensively +cultivated than in America for drying and for its oil, of which latter a +yield of 12 pounds to the acre is considered good. The leaves, green or +dried, are used abroad to flavor puddings and other culinary +preparations, but the taste and odor are usually not pleasant to +American and English palates and noses. + +=Peppermint= (_Mentha piperita_, Linn.) is much the same in habit of +growth as spearmint. It is a native of northern Europe, where it may be +found in moist situations along stream banks and in waste lands. In +America it is probably even more common as an escape than spearmint. +Like its relative, it has long been known and grown in gardens and +fields, especially in Europe, Asia and the United States. + +_Description._--Like spearmint, the plant has creeping rootstocks, which +rapidly extend it, and often make it a troublesome weed in moist ground. +The stems are smaller than those of spearmint, not so tall, and are more +purplish. They bear ovate, smooth leaves upon longer stalks than those +of spearmint. The whorled clusters of little, reddish-violet flowers +form loose, interrupted spikes. No seed is borne. + +_Cultivation._--Although peppermint prefers wet, even swampy, soil, it +will do well on moist loam. It is cultivated like spearmint. In +Michigan, western New York and other parts of the country it is grown +commercially upon muck lands for the oil distilled from its leaves and +stems. Among essential oils, peppermint ranks first in importance. It is +a colorless, yellowish or greenish liquid, with a peculiar, highly +penetrating odor and a burning, camphorescent taste. An interesting use +is made of it by sanitary engineers, who test the tightness of pipe +joints by its aid. It has the faculty of making its escape and betraying +the presence of leaks. It is largely employed in the manufacture of +soaps and perfumery, but probably its best known use is for flavoring +confectionery. + +=Rosemary= (_Rosemarinus officinalis_, Linn.)--As its generic name +implies, rosemary is a native of sea-coasts, "rose" coming from _Ros_, +dew, and "Mary" from _marinus_, ocean. It is one of the many Labiatae +found wild in limy situations along the Mediterranean coast. In ancient +times many and varied virtues were ascribed to the plant, hence its +"officinalis" or medical name, perhaps also the belief that "where +rosemary flourishes, the lady rules!" Pliny, Dioscorides and Galin all +write about it. It was cultivated by the Spaniards in the 13th century, +and from the 15th to the 18th century was popular as a condiment with +salt meats, but has since declined in popularity, until now it is used +for seasoning almost exclusively in Italian, French, Spanish and German +cookery. + +_Description._--The plant is a half-hardy evergreen, 2 feet or more +tall. The erect, branching, woody stems bear a profusion of little +obtuse, linear leaves, green above and hoary white beneath. On their +upper parts they bear pale blue, axillary flowers in leafy clusters. The +light-brown seeds, white where they were attached to the plant, will +germinate even when four years old. All parts of the plant are +fragrant--"the humble rosemary whose sweets so thanklessly are shed to +scent the desert" (Thomas Moore). One of the pleasing superstitions +connected with this plant is that it strengthens the memory. Thus it has +become the emblem of remembrance and fidelity. Hence the origin of the +old custom of wearing it at weddings in many parts of Europe. + + "There's rosemary, that's for remembrance; pray, love, remember: + And there is pansies, that's for thoughts." + + --_Hamlet, Act iv, Scene 5._ + +_Cultivation._--Rosemary is easily propagated by means of cuttings, root +division and layers in early spring, but is most frequently multiplied +by seed. It does best in rather poor, light soil, especially if limy. +The seed is either sown in drills 18 to 24 inches apart or in checks 2 +feet asunder each way, half a dozen seeds being dropped in each "hill." +Sometimes the seedbed method is employed, the seed being sown either +under glass or in the open ground and the seedlings transplanted. +Cultivation consists in keeping the soil loose and open and free from +weeds. No special directions are necessary as to curing. In frostless +sections, and even where protected by buildings, fences, etc., in +moderate climates, the plants will continue to thrive for years. + +_Uses._--The tender leaves and stems and the flowers are used for +flavoring stews, fish and meat sauces, but are not widely popular in +America. Our foreign-born population, however, uses it somewhat. In +France large quantities, both cultivated and wild, are used for +distilling the oil of rosemary, a colorless or yellowish liquid +suggesting camphor, but even more pleasant. This oil is extensively used +in perfuming soaps, but more especially in the manufacture of eau de +cologne, Hungary water and other perfumes. + +=Rue= (_Ruta graveolens_, Linn.), a hardy perennial herb of roundish, +bushy habit, native of southern Europe. It is a member of the same +botanical family as the orange, Rutaceae. In olden times it was highly +reputed for seasoning and for medicine among the Greeks and the Romans. +In Pliny's time it was considered to be effectual for 84 maladies! +Today it "hangs only by its eyelids" to our pharmacopoeia. Apicus +notes it among the condiments in the third century, and Magnus eleven +centuries later praises it among the garden esculents. At present it is +little used for seasoning, even by the Italians and the Germans, and +almost not at all by English and American cooks. Probably because of its +acridity and its ability to blister the skin when much handled, rue has +been chosen by poets to express disdain. Shakespeare speaks of it as the +"sour herb of grace," and Theudobach says: + + "When a rose is too haughty for heaven's dew + She becometh a spider's gray lair; + And a bosom, that never devotion knew + Or affection divine, shall be filled with rue + And with darkness, and end with despair." + +_Description._--The much branched stems, woody below, rise 18 to 24 +inches and bear small oblong or obovate, stalked, bluish-green glaucous +leaves, two or three times divided, the terminal one broader and notched +at the end. The rather large, greenish-yellow flowers, borne in corymbs +or short terminal clusters, appear all summer. In the round, four or +five-lobed seed vessels are black kidney-shaped seeds, which retain +their vitality two years or even longer. The whole plant has a very +acrid, bitter taste and a pungent smell. + +_Cultivation._--The plant may be readily propagated by means of seed, by +cuttings, by layers, and by division of the tufts. No special directions +are needed, except to say that when in the place they are to remain the +plants should be at least 18 inches apart--21 or 24 inches each way +would be even better. Rue does well on almost any well-drained soil, but +prefers a rather poor clayey loam. It is well, then, to plant it in the +most barren part of the garden. As the flowers are rather attractive, +rue is often used among shrubbery for ornamental purposes. When so grown +it is well to cut the stems close to the ground every two or three +years. + +[Illustration: Rue, Sour Herb of Grace] + +_Uses._--Because of the exceedingly strong smell of the leaves, rue is +disagreeable to most Americans, and could not become popular as a +seasoning. Yet it is used to a small extent by people who like bitter +flavors, not only in culinary preparations, but in beverages. The whole +plant is used in distilling a colorless oil which is used in making +aromatic vinegars and other toilet preparations. A pound of oil may be +secured from 150 to 200 pounds of the plant. + +=Sage= (_Salvia officinalis_, Linn.), a perennial member of the Labiatae, +found naturally on dry, calcareous hills in southern Europe, and +northern Africa. In ancient times, it was one of the most highly +esteemed of all plants because of its reputed health-insuring +properties. An old adage reads, "How can a man die in whose garden sage +is growing?" Its very names betoken the high regard in which it was +held; salvia is derived from _salvus_, to be safe, or _salveo_, to be in +good health or to heal; (hence also salvation!) and _officinalis_ stamps +its authority or indicates its recognized official standing. The name +sage, meaning wisdom, appears to have had a different origin, but as the +plant was reputed to strengthen the memory, there seems to be ground for +believing that those who ate the plant would be wise. + +_Description._--The almost woody stems rise usually 15 to 18 inches +high, though in Holt's Mammoth double these sizes is not uncommon. The +leaves are oblong, pale green, finely toothed, lance-shaped, wrinkled +and rough. The usually bluish-lilac, sometimes pink or white flowers, +borne in the axils of the upper leaves in whorls of three or four, form +loose terminal spikes or clusters. Over 7,000 of the small globular, +almost black seeds, which retain their vitality about three years, are +required to weigh an ounce, and nearly 20 ounces to the quart. + +_Cultivation._--Sage does best upon mellow well-drained soil of +moderate fertility. For cultivation on a large scale the soil should be +plowed deeply and allowed to remain in the rough furrows during the +winter, to be broken up as much as possible by the frost. In the spring +it should be fined for the crop. Sage is easily propagated by division, +layers and cuttings, but these ways are practiced on an extensive scale +only with the Holt's Mammoth variety, which produces no seed. For other +varieties seed is most popular. This is sown in drills at the rate of +two seeds to the inch and covered about 1/4 inch deep. At this rate and +in rows 15 inches apart about 8 pounds of seed will be needed to the +acre. + +[Illustration: Sage, the Leading Herb for Duck and Goose Dressing] + +Usually market gardeners prefer to grow sage as a second crop. They +therefore raise the plants in nursery beds. The seed is sown in very +early spring, not thicker than already mentioned, but in rows closer +together, 6 to 9 inches usually. From the start the seedlings are kept +clean cultivated and encouraged to grow stocky. By late May or early +June the first sowings of summer vegetables will have been marketed and +the ground ready for the sage. The ground is then put in good condition +and the sage seedlings transplanted 6 or 8 inches apart usually. Clean +cultivation is maintained until the sage has possession. + +When the plants meet, usually during late August, the alternate ones are +cut, bunched and sold. At this time one plant should make a good bunch. +When the rows meet in mid-September, the alternate rows are marketed, a +plant then making about two bunches. By the middle of October the final +cutting may be started, when the remaining plants should be large enough +to make about three bunches each. This last cutting may continue well +into November without serious loss of lower leaves. If the plants are +not thinned, but are allowed to crowd, the lower leaves will turn yellow +and drop off, thus entailing loss. + +For cultivation with hand-wheel hoes the plants in the rows should not +stand closer than 2 inches at first. As soon as they touch, each second +one should be removed and this process repeated till, when growing in a +commercial way, each alternate row has been removed. Finally, the plants +should be 12 to 15 inches apart. For cultivation by horse the rows will +need to be farther apart than already noted; 18 to 24 inches is the +usual range of distances. When grown on a large scale, sage usually +follows field-grown lettuce, early peas or early cabbage. If not cut too +closely or too late in the season sage plants stand a fair chance to +survive moderate winters. The specimens which succeed in doing so may be +divided and transplanted to new soil with little trouble. This is the +common practice in home gardens, and is usually more satisfactory than +growing a new lot of plants from seed each spring. + +For drying or for decocting the leaves are cut when the flowers appear. +They are dried in the shade. If a second cutting is to be made, and if +it is desired that the plants shall live over winter, this second +cutting must not be made later than September in the North, because the +new stems will not have time to mature before frost, and the plants will +probably winterkill. + +Sage seed is produced in open cups on slender branches, which grow well +above the leaves. It turns black when ripe. The stems which bear it +should be cut during a dry afternoon as soon as the seeds are ripe and +placed on sheets to cure; and several cuttings are necessary, because +the seed ripens unevenly. When any one lot of stems on a sheet is dry a +light flail or a rod will serve to beat the seed loose. Then small +sieves and a gentle breeze will separate the seed from the trash. After +screening the seed should be spread on a sheet in a warm, airy place for +a week or so to dry still more before being stored in cloth sacks. A +fair yield of leaves may be secured after seed has been gathered. + +[Illustration: Relative Sizes of Holt's Mammoth and Common Sage Leaves] + +_Uses._--Because of their highly aromatic odor sage leaves have long +been used for seasoning dressings, especially to disguise the too great +lusciousness of strong meats, such as pork, goose and duck. It is one of +the most important flavoring ingredients in certain kinds of sausage and +cheese. In France the whole herb is used to distill with water in order +to secure essential oil of sage, a greenish-yellow liquid employed in +perfumery. About 300 pounds of the stems and leaves yield one pound of +oil. + +=Samphire= (_Crithmum maritimum_, Linn.), a European perennial of the +Umbelliferae, common along rocky sea coasts and cliffs beyond the reach +of the tide. From its creeping rootstocks short, sturdy, more or less +widely branched stems arise. These bear two or three thick, fleshy +segmented leaves and umbels of small whitish flowers, followed by +yellow, elliptical, convex, ribbed, very light seeds, which rarely +retain their germinating power more than a year. In gardens the seed is +therefore generally sown in the autumn as soon as mature in fairly rich, +light, well-drained loam. The seedlings should be protected with a mulch +of straw, leaves or other material during winter. After the removal of +the mulch in the spring no special care is needed in cultivation. The +young, tender, aromatic and saline leaves and shoots are pickled in +vinegar, either alone or with other vegetables. + +[Illustration: Dainty Summer Savory] + +=Savory, Summer= (_Satureia hortensis_, Linn.), a little annual plant of +the natural order Labiatae indigenous to Mediterranean countries and +known as an escape from gardens in various parts of the world. In +America, it is occasionally found wild on dry, poor soils in Ohio, +Illinois, and some of the western states. The generic name is derived +from an old Arabic name, _Ssattar_, by which the whole mint family was +known. Among the Romans both summer and winter savory were popular 2,000 +years ago, not only for flavoring, but as potherbs. During the middle +ages and until the 18th century it still maintained this popularity. Up +to about 100 years ago it was used in cakes, puddings and confections, +but these uses have declined. + +_Description._--The plant, which rarely exceeds 12 inches in height, has +erect, branching, herbaceous stems, with oblong-linear leaves, tapering +at their bases, and small pink or white flowers clustered in the axils +of the upper leaves, forming penciled spikes. The small, brown, ovoid +seeds retain their viability about three years. An ounce contains about +42,500 of them, and a quart 18 ounces. + +_Cultivation._--For earliest use the seed may be sown in a spent hotbed +or a cold frame in late March, and the plants set in the open during +May. Usually, however, it is sown in the garden or the field where the +plants are to remain. In the hotbed the rows may be 3 or 4 inches apart; +in the field they should be not less than 9 inches, and only this +distance when hand wheel-hoes are to be used, and each alternate row is +to be removed as soon as the plants begin to touch across the rows. Half +a dozen seeds dropped to the inch is fairly thick sowing. As the seed is +small, it must not be covered deeply; 1/4 inch is ample. When the rows +are 15 inches apart about 4 pounds of seed will be needed to the acre. +For horse cultivation the drills should be 20 inches apart. Both summer +and winter savory do well on rather poor dry soils. If started in +hotbeds, the first plants may be gathered during May. Garden-sown seed +will produce plants by June. For drying, the nearly mature stems should +be cut just as the blossoms begin to appear. No special directions are +needed as to drying. (See page 25.) + +_Uses._--Both summer and winter savory are used in flavoring salads, +dressings, gravies, and sauces used with meats such as veal, pork, duck, +and goose and for increasing the palatability of such preparations as +croquettes, rissoles and stews. Summer savory is the better plant of the +two and should be in every home garden. + +=Savory, Winter= (_Satureia montana_, Linn.), a semi-hardy, perennial, +very branching herb, native of southern Europe and northern Africa. Like +summer savory, it has been used for flavoring for many centuries, but is +not now as popular as formerly, nor is it as popular as summer savory. + +_Description._--The numerous woody, slender, spreading stems, often more +than 15 inches tall, bear very acute, narrow, linear leaves and pale +lilac, pink, or white flowers in axillary clusters. The brown, rather +triangular seeds, which retain their vitality about three years, are +smaller than those of summer savory. Over 70,000 are in an ounce, and it +takes 15 ounces to fill a quart. + +_Cultivation._--Winter savory is readily propagated by means of +cuttings, layers and division as well as seeds. No directions different +from those relating to summer savory are necessary, except that seed of +winter savory should be sown where the plants are to remain, because the +seedlings do not stand transplanting very well. Seed is often sown in +late summer where the climate is not severe or where winter protection +is to be given. The plant is fairly hardy on dry soils. When once +established it will live for several years. + +To increase the yield the stems may be cut to within 4 or 5 inches of +the ground when about ready to flower. New shoots will appear and may be +cut in turn. For drying, the first cutting may be secured during July, +the second in late August or September. In all respects winter savory is +used like summer savory, but is considered inferior in flavor. + +=Southernwood= (_Artemisia Abrotanum_, Linn.), a woody-stemmed perennial +belonging to the Compositae and a native of southern Europe. It grows +from 2 to 4 feet tall, bears hairlike, highly aromatic leaves and heads +of small yellow flowers. The plant is often found in old-fashioned +gardens as an ornamental under the name of Old Man. In some countries +the young shoots are used for flavoring cakes and other culinary +preparations. + +=Tansy= (_Tanacetum vulgare_, Linn.), a perennial of the Compositae, native +of Europe, whence it has spread with civilization as a weed almost all +over the world. From the very persistent underground parts annual, +usually unbranched stems, sometimes 3 feet tall, are produced in more or +less abundance. They bear much-divided, oval, oblong leaves and numerous +small, yellow flower-heads in usually crowded corymbs. The small, nearly +conical seeds have five gray ribs and retain their germinability for +about two years. + +Tansy is easily propagated by division of the clumps or by seed sown in +a hotbed for the transplanting of seedlings. It does well in any +moderately fertile garden soil, but why anyone should grow it except for +ornament, either in the garden or as an inedible garnish, is more than I +can understand. While its odor is not exactly repulsive, its acrid, +bitter taste is such that a nibble, certainly a single leaf, would last +most people a lifetime. Yet some people use it to flavor puddings, +omelettes, salads, stews and other culinary dishes. Surely a peculiar +order of gustatory preference! It is said that donkeys will eat +thistles, but I have never known them to eat tansy, and I am free to +confess that I rather admire their preference for the thistles. + +=Tarragon= (_Artemisia Dracunculus_, Linn.), a fairly hardy, herbaceous +rather shrubby perennial of the Compositae, supposed to be a native of +southern Russia, Siberia, and Tartary, cultivated for scarcely more +than 500 years for its leaves and tender shoots. In all civilized +countries its popular name, like its specific name, means dragon, though +why it should be so called is not clear. + +[Illustration: Tarragon, the French Chef's Delight] + +_Description._--The plant has numerous branching stems, which bear +lance-shaped leaves and nowadays white, sterile flowers. Formerly the +flowers were said to be fertile. No one should buy the seed offered as +tarragon. It is probably that of a related plant which resembles +tarragon in everything except flavor--which is absent! _Tagetes lucida_, +which may be used as a substitute for true tarragon, is easily +propagated by seed and can be procured from seedsmen under its own name. +As tarragon flowers appear to be perfect, it is possible that some +plants may produce a few seeds, and that plants raised from these seeds +may repeat the wonder. Indeed, a variety which naturally produces seed +may thus be developed and disseminated. Here is one of the possible +opportunities for the herb grower to benefit his fellow-men. + +_Cultivation._--At present tarragon is propagated only by cuttings, +layers and division. There is no difficulty in either process. The plant +prefers dry, rather poor soil, in a warm situation. In cold climates it +should be partially protected during the winter to prevent alternate +freezing and thawing of both the soil and the plant. In moist and heavy +soil it will winterkill. Strawy litter or conifer boughs will serve the +purpose well. Half a dozen to a dozen plants will supply the needs of a +family. As the plants spread a good deal and as they grow 15 to 18 +inches tall, or even more, they should be set in rows 18 to 24 inches +apart each way. In a short time they will take possession of the ground. + +_Uses._--The tender shoots and the young leaves are often used in +salads, and with steaks, chops, etc., especially by the French. They are +often used as an ingredient in pickles. Stews, soups, croquettes, and +other meat preparations are also flavored with tarragon, and for +flavoring fish sauces it is especially esteemed. + +Probably the most popular way it is employed, however, is as a decoction +in vinegar. For this purpose, the green parts are gathered preferably in +the morning and after washing are placed in jars and covered with the +best quality vinegar for a few days. The vinegar is then drawn off as +needed. In France, the famous vinegar of Maille is made in this way. + +The leaves may be dried in the usual way if desired. For this purpose +they are gathered in midsummer. A second cutting may be made in late +September or early October. Tarragon oil, which is used for perfuming +toilet articles, is secured by distilling the green parts, from 300 to +500 pounds of which yield one pound of oil. + +[Illustration: Thyme for Sausage] + +=Thyme= (_Thymus vulgaris_, Linn.), a very diminutive perennial shrub, of +the natural order Labiatae, native of dry, stony places on Mediterranean +coasts, but found occasionally naturalized as an escape from gardens in +civilized countries, both warm and cold. From early days it has been +popularly grown for culinary purposes. The name is from the Greek word +_thyo_, or sacrifice, because of its use as incense to perfume the +temples. With the Romans it was very popular both in cookery and as a +bee forage. Like its relatives sage and marjoram, it has practically +disappeared from medicine, though formerly it was very popular because +of its reputed properties. + +_Description._--The procumbent, branched, slender, woody stems, which +seldom reach 12 inches, bear oblong, triangular, tapering leaves from +1/4 to 1/2 inch long, green above and gray beneath. In the axils of the +upper leaves are little pink or lilac flowers, which form whorls and +loose, leafy spikes. The seeds, of which there are 170,000 to the ounce, +and 24 ounces to the quart, retain their germinating power for three +years. + +_Cultivation._--Thyme does best in a rather dry, moderately fertile, +light soil well exposed to the sun. Cuttings, layers and divisions may +be made, but the popular way to propagate is by seed. Because the seed +is very small, it should be sown very shallow or only pressed upon the +surface and then sprinkled with finely sifted soil. A small seedbed +should be used in preference to sowing in the open ground first, because +better attention can be given such little beds; second, because the area +where the plants are ultimately to be can be used for an early-maturing +crop. In the seedbed made out of doors in early spring, the drills may +be made 4 to 6 inches apart and the seeds sown at the rate of 5 or 6 to +the inch. A pound should produce enough plants for an acre. In hand +sowing direct in the field, a fine dry sand is often thoroughly mixed +with the seed to prevent too close planting. The proportion chosen is +sometimes as great as four times as much sand as seed. Whether sown +direct in the field or transplanted the plants should finally not stand +closer than 8 inches--10 is preferred. When first set they may be half +this distance. In a small way one plant to the square foot is a good +rate to follow. The young plants may be set in the field during June, or +even as late as July, preferably just before or just after a shower. The +alternate plants may be removed in late August or early September, the +alternate rows about three weeks later and the final crop in October. + +Thyme will winter well. In home garden practice it may be treated like +sage. In the coldest climates it may be mulched with leaves or litter to +prevent undue thawing and freezing and consequent heaving of the soil. +In the spring the plants should be dug, divided and reset in a new +situation. + +When seed is desired, the ripening tops must be cut frequently, because +the plants mature very unevenly. But this method is often more wasteful +than spreading cloths or sheets of paper beneath the plants and allowing +the seed to drop in them as it ripens. Twice a day, preferably about +noon, and in the late afternoon the plants should be gently jarred to +make the ripe seeds fall into the sheets. What falls should then be +collected and spread in a warm, airy room to dry thoroughly. When this +method is practiced the stems are cut finally; that is, when the bulk of +the seed has been gathered. They are dried, threshed or rubbed and the +trash removed, by sifting. During damp weather the seed will not +separate readily from the plants. + +Of the common thyme there are two varieties: narrow-leaved and +broad-leaved. The former, which has small grayish-green leaves, is more +aromatic and pleasing than the latter, which, however, is much more +popular, mainly because of its size, and not because of its superiority +to the narrow-leaved kind. It is also known as winter or German thyme. +The plant is taller and larger and has bigger leaves, flowers and seeds +than the narrow-leaved variety and is decidedly more bitter. + +_Uses._--The green parts, either fresh, dried or in decoction, are used +very extensively for flavoring soups, gravies, stews, sauces, +forcemeats, sausages, dressings, etc. For drying, the tender stems are +gathered after the dew is off and exposed to warm air in the shade. When +crisp they are rubbed, the trash removed and the powder placed in +stoppered bottles or tins. All parts of the plant are fragrant because +of the volatile oil, which is commercially distilled mainly in France. +About one per cent of the green parts is oil, which after distillation +is at first a reddish-brown fluid. It loses its color on redistillation +and becomes slightly less fragrant. Both grades of oil are used +commercially in perfumery. In the oil are also crystals (thymol), which +resemble camphor and because of their pleasant odor are used as a +disinfectant where the strong-smelling carbolic acid would be +objectionable. + +Besides common thyme two other related species are cultivated to some +extent for culinary purposes. Lemon thyme (_T. citriodorus_, Pers.), +like its common relative, is a little undershrub, with procumbent stems +and with a particularly pleasing fragrance. Wild thyme, or +mother-of-thyme (_T. serpyllum_, Linn.), is a less grown perennial, with +violet or pink flowers. It is occasionally seen in country home gardens, +and is also used somewhat for seasoning. + + + + +INDEX + + + Page + + Angelica, 56 + candied, 59 + + Anise, 59 + in Bible, 13 + + + Bags of herbs, 6 + + Balm, 63 + demand for, 20 + + Barrel of herbs, 8 + + Basil, 65 + demand for, 20 + tree, 68 + + Bible, herbs mentioned in, 12 + + Borage, 71 + + Bouquet of herbs, 6 + + Bride's trousseau, 7 + + + Caraway, 73 + + Catnip, 77 + + Chervil, 79 + + Chives, 80 + + Clary, 81 + + Cleveland, John, quoted, 101 + + Coriander, 82 + + Cultivation, 47 + + Cumin, 84 + in Bible, 13 + + Curing, 22 + + Cuttings, propagation by, 34 + + + Dibbles tabooed, 42 + + Dill, 87 + demand for, 21 + for pickles, 21 + + Dinner of herbs, 7 + + Division, propagation by, 37 + + Double cropping, 48 + + Drying, 25 + + Drying seeds, 28 + + + Eggs, stuffed, 9 + + Evaporator, 26 + + + Fennel, 89 + demand for, 20 + Florence, 93 + + Fennel Flower, 94 + + Finocchio, 93 + + + Garnishes, 19, 30 + + + Herb history, 12 + + History of herbs, 12 + + Hoarhound, 95 + + Hyssop, 96 + + + Ingelow, Jean quoted, 101 + + + Lavender, 97 + and linen, 7 + + Layers, propagation by, 36 + + Lovage, 99 + + Lunch, herb, 8 + + + MacDonald, George, quoted, 72 + + Marigold, 100 + + Marjoram, 101 + demand for, 20 + + Market gardening, herb, 14 + + Medicine, herbs in, 53 + + Mint, 105 + demand for, 21 + in Bible, 13 + + Moschus quoted, 109 + + Moving pictures, 4 + + + Omelette, herb, 9 + + + Packages for selling, 14 + + Parsley, 109 + in most demand, 19 + + Peppermint, 119 + + Pictures, moving, 4 + + Pillows full of herbs, 6 + + Propagation, 32 + + + Rosemary, 120 + + Rue, 122 + in Bible, 13 + + + Sage, 125 + in demand, 20 + + Salad, herb, 9 + + Samphire, 129 + + Sandwiches, herb and cheese, 5 + lettuce and nasturtium, 10 + + Savory, demand for, 20 + summer, 131 + winter, 132 + + Seeds, propagation by, 32 + + Selection for variety, 15 + + Shakespeare quoted, 6, 63, 121 + + Sieves, sizes to use, 29 + + Soda water, 4 + + Soil preparation, 45 + + Solomon's herb dinner, 3 + + Soup, parsley, 8 + + Southernwood, 133 + + Storing, 25 + + Superstitions about herbs, 54 + + + Tagetes lucida, 135 + + Tansy, 134 + + Tarragon, 134 + + Theudobach quoted, 123 + + Thyme, 137 + demand for, 20 + lemon, 141 + + Transplanting, 39 + + + Varieties, production of, 15 + + + Water, importance of, 41 + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Culinary Herbs: Their Cultivation +Harvesting Curing and Uses, by M. 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