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diff --git a/21391.txt b/21391.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e391a57 --- /dev/null +++ b/21391.txt @@ -0,0 +1,14958 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Great African Travellers, by W.H.G. Kingston + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Great African Travellers + From Mungo Park to Livingstone and Stanley + +Author: W.H.G. Kingston + +Release Date: May 8, 2007 [EBook #21391] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GREAT AFRICAN TRAVELLERS *** + + + + +Produced by Nick Hodson of London, England + + + + +Great African Travellers, from Mungo Park to Livingstone and Stanley, by +W.H.G. Kingston. + +________________________________________________________________________ + +At the beginning of the nineteenth century, the coastal parts of Africa +were of course well-known, and in any of the territories round the +coasts there were European officials, such as consuls, and European +traders. This becomes very apparent as you read this book, as many of +the travels described involve sorties from an existing European base. + +On the other hand the very sources of the various major rivers were not +on the map, and the object of many of the travellers was to find these +sources, for instance that of the Nile, or rather, that of any one of +its major components, such as the Red Nile and the Blue Nile. + +On the whole the various regions they passed through had already a +settled African regime. In most cases this regime was friendly, but in +some cases the opposite was the case. These explorations and travels +could only take place if the native rulers could be brought to give +assistance, and in most cases this was forthcoming. On the other hand +some of the lesser-known early travellers were murdered, and the goods +they travelled with, stolen. It is really only those travellers who +were able to complete their self-imposed tasks, and return to Britain, +that have become famous. + +Written in an easy style, this book is a good read, and very worth the +while of even today's teenagers. There are too many names to make an +audiobook very easily, so we have not done so, and have no comments on +that. + +________________________________________________________________________ + +GREAT AFRICAN TRAVELLERS, FROM MUNGO PARK TO LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY, BY +W.H.G. KINGSTON. + +FROM MUNGO PARK TO LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY. + + + +CHAPTER ONE. + +INTRODUCTORY. + +INTRODUCTION--THE AFRICAN ASSOCIATION--LEDYARD--LUCAS--FIRST INFORMATION +RESPECTING THE NIGER, OR QUORRA, AND THE GAMBIA--TIMBUCTOO HEARD OF-- +THOMPSON AND JOBSON'S VOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA--MAJOR HAUGHTON'S EXPEDITION +AND DEATH. + +When the fathers of the present generation were young men, and George +the Third ruled the land, they imagined that the whole interior of +Africa was one howling wilderness of burning sand, roamed over by brown +tribes in the north and south, and by black tribes--if human beings +there were--on either side of the equator, and along the west coast. + +The maps then existing afforded them no information. Of the Mountains +of the Moon they knew about as much as of the mountains in the moon. +The Nile was not explored--its sources unknown--the course of the Niger +was a mystery. They were aware that the elephant, rhinoceros, +cameleopard, zebra, lion and many other strange beasts ranged over its +sandy deserts; but very little more about them than the fact of their +existence was known. They knew that on the north coast dwelt the +descendants of the Greek and Roman colonists, and of their Arab +conquerors--that there were such places as Tangiers, Tripoli, Tunis, +Algiers with its piratical cruisers who carried off white men into +slavery; Morocco, with an emperor addicted to cutting off heads; Salee, +which sent forth its rovers far over the ocean to plunder merchantmen; +and a few other towns and forts, for the possession of which Europeans +had occasionally knocked their heads together. + +From the west coast they had heard that ivory and gold-dust was to be +procured, as well as an abundant supply of negroes, whose happy lot it +was to be carried off to cultivate the plantations of the West Indies +and America; but, except that they worshipped fetishes, of their manners +and customs, or at what distance from the coast they came, their +ignorance was profound. They possibly were acquainted with the fact +that the Portuguese had settlements at Loango, Angola, and Benguela; and +that Hottentots and Kaffirs were to be found at the Cape, where a colony +had been taken from the Dutch, but with that colony, except in the +immediate neighbourhood of Cape Town, where ships to and from India +touched, they were but slightly acquainted. + +Eastward, if they troubled their heads about the matter, they had a +notion that there was a terribly wild coast, inhabited by fierce +savages, and northward, inside the big island of Madagascar, that the +Portuguese had some settlements for slaving purposes; that further north +again was Zanzibar, and that the mainland was without a town or spot +where civilised man was to be found, till the Strait of Bab el Mandeb, +at the mouth of the Red Sea, was reached. That there, towards the +interior, was the wonderful country of Abyssinia, in which the Queen of +Sheba once ruled, and Nubia, the birthplace from time immemorial of +black slaves, and that, flowing northward, the mysterious Nile made its +way down numerous cataracts, fertilising the land of Egypt on its annual +overflows, till, passing the great city of Cairo, it entered the +Mediterranean by its numberless mouths. + +About Egypt, to be sure, more was known than of all the rest of the +continent together--that there were pyramids and ruined cities, colossal +statues, temples and tombs, crocodiles and hippopotami in the waters of +the sacred river, and Christian Copts and dark-skinned Mahommedans +dwelling on its banks. But few had explored the mighty remains of its +past glory, or made their way either to the summits or into the +interiors of its mountain-like edifices. + +Those who had read Herodotus believed in a good many wonders which that +not incredulous historian narrates. The late discoveries of +Livingstone, however, prove that Herodotus had obtained a more correct +account of the sources of the Nile than has hitherto been supposed. +Indeed, free range was allowed to the wildest imagination, and the most +extravagant stories found ready believers, there being no one with +authority to contradict them. + +When, however, Bruce and other travellers made their way further than +any civilised man had before penetrated into the interior of the +continent, their accounts were discredited, and people were disappointed +when they were told that many of their cherished notions had no +foundation in truth; in fact, up to the commencement of the present +century the greater part of Africa was a _terra incognita_, and only by +slow and painful degrees, and during a comparatively late period, has a +knowledge of some of its more important geographical features been +obtained. + +We will now set forth and accompany in succession the most noted of the +various travellers who, pushing their way into that long unknown +interior, bravely encountering its savage and treacherous tribes, its +fever-giving climate, famine, hardships, dangers and difficulties of +every description, have contributed to fill up some of the numerous +blank places on the map. Although, by their showing, sand enough and to +spare and vast rocky deserts are to be found, there are wide districts +of the greatest fertility, possessed of many natural beauties--elevated +and cool regions, where even the European can retain his health and +strength and enjoy existence; lofty mountains, magnificent rivers and +broad lakes, and many curious and interesting objects, not more +wonderful, however, than those of other parts of the globe, while the +inhabitants in _every_ direction, though often savage and debased, +differ in no material degree from the other descendants of Ham. + +Although our fathers knew very little about Africa, their interest had +been excited by the wonders it was supposed to contain, and they were +anxious to obtain all possible information respecting it. This was, +however, no easy matter, as most of the travellers who endeavoured to +make their way into the interior had died in the attempt. + +A society called the African Association, to which the Marquis of +Hastings and Sir John Banks belonged, was at length formed to open up +the mighty continent to British commerce and civilisation. + +The first explorer they despatched was Ledyard, who as a sergeant of +marines had sailed round the world with Captain Cook, and after living +among the American Indians had pushed his way to the remotest parts of +Asiatic Russia. If any man could succeed, it was thought he would. + +He proceeded to Egypt, intending to make his way to Sennaar, and thence +to traverse the entire breadth of the African continent; but, seized +with an illness at Cairo, he died just as he was about to start with a +caravan. + +The next traveller engaged by the society was Mr Lucas, who, having +been captured by a Salee rover, had been several years a slave in +Morocco. He started from Tripoli, but was compelled by the disturbed +state of the country to the south of that place to put back. + +It should have been said that it had been long known that two mighty +rivers flowed through the interior of Africa, one called the Gambia and +the other the Niger, or Quorra; but whereabouts they rose, or the +direction they took, or the nature of the country they traversed in +their course, no exact information was possessed. + +From Arab traders, also, accounts had been received of a vast city, +situated near the banks of the Niger, far away across the desert, called +Timbuctoo, said to possess palaces, temples and numberless public +buildings, to be surrounded by lofty walls and glittering everywhere +with gold and precious stones, to rival the ancient cities of Mexico and +Peru in splendour and those of Asia in the amount of its population. + +A century and a half before, two sea captains, Thompson and Jobson, sent +out by a company for the purpose, had made their way some distance up +the Gambia in boats, and early in the eighteenth century Captain Stibbs +had gallantly sailed up the same river to a considerable distance, but, +his native crew refusing to proceed, he was compelled to return without +having gained much information. + +As a wide sandy desert intervened between the shores of the +Mediterranean and the centre of Africa, it was naturally supposed that +the unknown region could be more easily reached from the west coast than +over that barren district, and, soon after the return of Lucas, Major +Haughton, a high-spirited, gallant officer who had lived some time in +Morocco, volunteered to make his way along the bank of the Gambia +eastward, under the belief that a journey by land was more likely to +succeed than one by water. Some way up that river is the the town of +Pisania, where an English factory had been established, and a few +Europeans were settled, with a medical man, Dr Laidley. Leaving this +place, he proceeded to Tisheet, a place in the Great Desert, hoping from +thence to reach Timbuctoo; but, robbed by a Moorish chief, of everything +he possessed, he wandered alone through the desert, till, exhausted by +hunger and thirst, he sat down under a tree and died. The news of his +fate was brought to Dr Laidley soon afterwards by some negroes. + +These expeditions threw no light on the interior of the continent. A +fresh volunteer, however, Mungo Park, then unknown to fame, was soon to +commence those journeys which have immortalised his name, and which +contributed so greatly to solve one of the chief African problems--the +course of the Niger. + + + +CHAPTER TWO. + +TRAVELS OF MUNGO PARK. + +PARENTAGE--RETURNS FROM INDIA--SENT OUT BY THE AFRICAN ASSOCIATION-- +SAILS FOR AFRICA--ARRIVES AT PISANIA--STARTS WITH A COME EASTWARD--MUMBO +JUMBO--ARRIVES AT KOOJAR--REACHES CAPITAL OF BONDOU--WELCOMED AT THE +CAPITAL OF KAARTA BY KING DAISY--SEIZED AT THE TOWN OF DALLI BY MOORISH +SOLDIERS, AND CARRIED CAPTIVE TO BENOWM--BARBAROUSLY TREATED BY ALI-- +TAKEN TO VISIT ALI'S WIFE FATIMA--SHE COMPASSIONATES HIM--ALMOST +STARVED--DIFFICULTY OF OBTAINING WATER--HIS SERVANTS TAKEN FROM HIM--ALI +ATTACKED BY DAISY--PARK AGAIN FALLS INTO ALI'S HANDS--RESOLVES TO +ESCAPE. + +Mungo Park, who long ranked as the chief of African travellers, was born +on the 10th of September, 1771, at Fowlshiels, a farm occupied by his +father on the banks of the Yarrow, not far from the town of Selkirk, in +Scotland. + +The elder Mr Park, also called Mungo, was a substantial yeoman of +Ettrick Forest, and was distinguished for his unremitting attention to +the education of his children, the greater number of whom he saw +respectably settled in life. The young Mungo, after receiving with his +brothers a course of education at home under a private tutor, was sent +to the Grammar School at Selkirk, and at the age of fifteen was +apprenticed to Mr Thomas Anderson, a surgeon of that town. Hence he +removed to the University of Edinburgh, and during his vacations made a +tour with his brother-in-law, Mr Dickson, a distinguished botanist. On +going to London he was introduced by his relative to Sir Joseph Banks, +whose interest procured for him the appointment of assistant surgeon to +the "Worcester," East Indiaman. Returning from India, he offered his +services to the African Association, who, notwithstanding the failure of +the first expeditions they had sent out, still determined to persevere +in their efforts. + +Possessed of unbounded courage and perseverance, he was admirably fitted +for the task he undertook, and his offer was gladly accepted. + +Having received his final instructions from the African Association, he +sailed from Portsmouth on the 22nd of May, 1795, on board the +"Endeavour," an African trader bound for the Gambia, where he arrived on +the 21st of the following month. + +His directions were to make his way to the Niger, by Bambook or any +other route, to ascertain the course of that river, and to visit the +principal towns in its neighbourhood, particularly Timbuctoo and Houssa, +and afterwards to return by way of the Gambia or any other route he +might deem advisable. + +Houssa is not a city, as was then supposed, but a kingdom or province. + +The vessel anchored on the 21st of June at Jillifree, where he landed +and from thence proceeded up the Gambia to Pisania. The only white +residents were Dr Laidley and two merchants of the name of Ainsley, +with their numerous black domestics. It is in the dominions of the King +of Yany, who afforded them protection. + +Assisted by Dr Laidley, Park here set to work to learn the Mandingo +tongue, and to collect information from certain black traders called +Seedees. During his residence at Pisania he was confined for two months +by a severe fever, from which he recovered under the constant care of +his host. + +A coffle, or caravan, being about to start for the interior of Africa, +Park, having purchased a hardy and spirited horse and two asses, +arranged to accompany it. He obtained also the services of Johnson, a +negro who spoke both English and Mandingo. Dr Laidley also provided +him with a negro boy named Demba, a sprightly youth who spoke, besides +Mandingo, the language of a large tribe in the interior. His baggage +consisted only of a small stock of provisions, beads, amber and tobacco, +for the purchase of food on the road; a few changes of linen, an +umbrella, pocket compass, magnetic compass and thermometer, with a +fowling-piece, two pair of pistols and other small articles. Four +Mahommedan blacks also offered their services as his attendants. They +were going to travel on foot, driving their horses before them. These +six attendants regarded him with great respect, and were taught to +consider that their safe return to the countries of the Gambia would +depend on his preservation. + +Dr Laidley and the Mr Ainsleys accompanied him for the two first days, +secretly believing that they should never see him again. + +Taxes are demanded from travellers at every town, by the chiefs. + +Madina was the first town of any size he reached. He was here received +by King Jatta, a venerable old man, who had treated Major Haughton with +great kindness. He was seated on a mat before his hut, a number of men +and women ranged on either side, who were singing and clapping their +hands. Park, saluting him respectfully, informed him of the purport of +his visit. The king replied that he not only gave him leave to pass, +but would offer up his prayers for his safety. He warned him, however, +of the dangers he would encounter, observing that the people in the east +differed greatly from those of his country, who were acquainted with +white men and respected them. + +The king having provided a guide, Park took his departure, reaching +Konjowar the next night. Here, having purchased a sheep, he found +Johnson and one of his negroes quarrelling about the horns. It appeals +that these horns are highly valued as being easily converted into +sheaths for keeping secure certain charms, called _saphies_. These +_saphies_ are sentences from the Koran, which the Mahommedan priests +write on scraps of paper and sell to the natives, who believe that they +possess extraordinary virtues. They indeed consider the art of writing +as bordering on magic; and it is not in the doctrines of the Prophet, +but in the arts of the magician that their confidence is placed. + +On the 8th, entering Koloa, a considerable town, he observed hanging on +a tree a masquerading habit, made of bark, which he was told belonged to +Mumbo Jumbo, a sort of wood demon, held greatly in awe, especially by +the female part of the community. This strange bugbear is common to all +the Mandingo towns, and much employed by the pagan negroes in keeping +their women in subjection. As the Kaffirs, or pagan Africans, are not +restricted in the number of their wives, every one marries as many as he +can conveniently maintain; and it frequently happens that the ladies +disagree among themselves, their quarrels sometimes reaching to such a +height that the authority of the husband can no longer preserve peace in +his household,--in such cases the interposition of Mumbo Jumbo is called +in and is always decisive. This strange minister of justice, who is +supposed to be either the husband or some person instructed by him, +disguised in the dress which has just been mentioned, and armed with the +rod of public authority, announces his coming by loud and dismal screams +in the woods near the town. + +He begins the pantomime at the approach of night, and as soon as it is +dark he enters the town and proceeds to the _bentang_, or public +meeting-house, at which all the inhabitants immediately assemble. The +women do not especially relish this exhibition; for, as the person in +disguise is entirely unknown to them, every married female suspects that +the visit may possibly be intended for her; but they dare not refuse to +appear when summoned. + +The ceremony commences with songs and dances, which continue till +midnight, about which time Mumbo fixes on the offender. The unfortunate +victim being thereupon immediately seized, is stripped naked, tied to a +post, and receives a severe switching with Mumbo's rod, amidst the +derisive shouts of the whole assembly, the rest of the women being the +loudest in their exclamations against their unhappy sister. Daylight +puts an end to the unmanly revel. + +The desert was now to be passed, in which no water was to be procured. +The caravan therefore travelled rapidly till they arrived at Koojar, the +frontier town of Woolli, on the road to Bondou, from which it is +separated by another intervening wilderness of two days' journey. + +While crossing the desert, they came to a tree, adorned with scraps of +cloth, probably at first hung up to inform other travellers that water +was to be found near it; but the custom has been so sanctioned by time +that nobody presumes to pass without hanging up something. Park +followed the example and suspended a handsome piece of cloth on one of +the boughs. Finding, however, a fire, which the negroes thought had +been made by banditti, they pushed on to another watering-place, where, +surrounded by their cattle, they lay down on the bare ground, out of +gun-shot from the nearest bush, the negroes agreeing to keep watch by +turns, to prevent surprise. + +They soon after reached Koorkarany, a Mahommedan town, which contained a +mosque, and was surrounded by a high wall. The _maraboo_, or priest, a +black, showed Park a number of Arabic manuscripts, passages from which +he read and explained in Mandingo. + +Moving on at noon of the 21st of December, the traveller... + +This page and the next page are missing. + +This page and the previous page are missing. + +His fellow-travellers considered it necessary to journey by night till +they could reach a more hospitable part of the country. They +accordingly started as soon as the people in the village had gone to +sleep. The stillness of the air, the howling of the wild beasts and the +deep solitude of the forest made the scene solemn and impressive. Not a +word, except in a whisper, was uttered; and his companions pointed out +to him the wolves and hyaenas, as they glided like shadows from one +thicket to another. + +The inhabitants of Bondou are called Foulahs. They are naturally of a +mild and gentle disposition; but the uncharitable maxims of the Koran +have made them less hospitable to strangers and more reserved in their +behaviour than the Mandingoes. + +Leaving Bondou, the caravan entered the kingdom of Kajaaga. The +inhabitants, whose complexion is jet-black, are called Serrawoollies. +The _dooty_, or chief man of Joag, the frontier town, though a rigid +Mahommedan, treated Park very civilly; but while he was staying there a +party of horseman, sent by the king, arrived to conduct him to Maana, +his residence. When there, the king demanded enormous duties, and Park +had to pay him the five drachms of gold which he had received from the +King of Bondou, besides which his baggage was opened and everything of +value taken. His companions now begged him to turn back, and Johnson +declared it would be impossible to proceed without money. He had +fortunately concealed some of his property; but they were afraid of +purchasing provisions, lest the king should rob him of his few remaining +effects. They therefore resolved to combat hunger during the day and +wait for another opportunity of obtaining food. + +While seated on the ground, with his servant-boy by his side, a poor +woman came up with a basket on her head, and asked Park if he had had +his dinner. The boy replied that the king's people had robbed him of +all his money. On hearing this the good old woman, with a look of +unaffected benevolence, took the basket from her head, and presented him +with a few handfuls of ground nuts, walking away before he had time to +thank her. + +Leaving Joag in company with thirty persons and six loaded asses, he +rode on cheerfully for some hours till the caravan reached a species of +tree for which Johnson had frequently inquired. On seeing it he +produced a white chicken which he had purchased at Joag, tied it by a +leg to one of the branches, and then told his companions that they might +safely proceed, as the journey would be prosperous. + +This incident shows the power of superstition over the minds of negroes; +for though this man had resided seven years in England, it was evident +that he still retained the superstitions imbibed in his youth. + +Koomakary was the birthplace of one of Park's companions from Pisania, a +blacksmith, who had been attentive to him on the road. On approaching +the place shouts were raised and muskets were fired. The meeting +between the long-absent blacksmith and his relations was very tender. +The younger ones having embraced him, his aged mother was led forth, +leaning upon a staff. Every one made way for her as she stretched out +her hands to bid her son welcome. Being totally blind, she stroked his +arms, hands and face with great care, and seemed highly delighted that +her ears once more could hear the music of his voice. "It was evident," +observes Park, "that, whatever may be the difference between the negro +and European, there is none in the genuine sympathies and characteristic +feelings of our common nature." + +The king, Dembo Sego, gave the traveller an audience, and appeared +well-disposed towards him. An escort was also sent to conduct him to +the frontiers of Kaarta. + +The capital of that province was reached on the 12th of February, and as +soon as he arrived a messenger came from the king, bidding him welcome, +and a large hut was at once provided for his accommodation. The people, +however crowded in till it was completely full; when the first visitors +went, another took their place--in this way the hut being filled and +emptied thirteen different times. + +Park found the king, whose name was Daisy, surrounded by a number of +attendants, the fighting men on his right-hand and the women and +children on his left. A bank of earth, on which was spread a +leopard-skin, formed the throne. Daisy seemed perfectly satisfied with +the account the traveller gave of himself, but warned him of the dangers +in his way on account of the war which was then raging, and advised him +to return to Kason, there to remain till it was over. Wise as this +advice was, the approaching hot months made it important for him to +proceed, dreading as he did having to spend the rainy season in the +interior of Africa. + +Daisy presented him with food, and sent a party of horse men to conduct +him to Jarra, while three of his sons, with about two hundred horsemen, +undertook to accompany him part of the way. + +He had evidence of the disturbed state of the country while staying at +the next town he entered. A body of Moors approached the gates and +carried off the cattle, and one of the horsemen was shot by a Moor. The +wounded man was brought in, when, as he was borne along, his mother went +before, clapping her hands and enumerating the good qualities of her +son. The ball had passed through both his legs, and as he and his +friends would not consent to have one of them amputated, he died the +same night. + +Going forward, on the 18th they passed through Simbug, the frontier +village of Ludamar. It was from hence Major Haughton wrote his last +letter, with a pencil, to Dr Laidley. After leaving the place, when +endeavouring to make his way across the desert, he was murdered by some +savage Mahommedans, who robbed him of everything he possessed. + +At this time, while Daisy was employed in fortifying a strong position +among the hills, his territory was overrun by his enemy, Mansong. + +On the evening of the 5th of March Park reached the town of Dalli. Here +the people crowded in so disagreeable a manner to see the white +stranger, that his host proposed, in order to avoid them, going in the +cool of the evening to a negro village called Samee, at a short distance +off. + +As he was now within two days' journey of the heathen kingdom of Goumba, +he had no apprehensions from the Moors, and readily accepted the +invitation. His landlord was proud of the honour of entertaining a +white man, and Park spent the forenoon very pleasantly with these poor +negroes, their gentleness of manner presenting a striking contrast to +the rudeness and barbarity of the Moors. + +While thus enjoying himself, greatly to his dismay a party of Moorish +soldiers suddenly appeared in the place. They were sent, they said, by +their chief, Ali, to convey the white stranger to his camp at Benowm. +If he would come willingly it would be better for him, but come he must, +as they had orders to convey him by force; because Fatima, Ali's wife, +having heard much about Christians, was anxious to see one. Park, +unable to resist, was compelled to accompany them. The journey occupied +many days, during which both Park and his attendants suffered much from +thirst. + +On the evening of the 12th they came in sight of Benowm, which presented +to the eye a number of dirty-looking tents scattered without order over +a large space of ground. Among the tents appeared large herds of +camels, cattle and goats. As soon as he was seen the people who were +drawing water threw down their buckets and, rushing towards him, began +to treat him with the greatest discourtesy; one pulled at his clothes, +another took off his hat, while a third stopped him to examine his +waistcoat buttons. + +At length the king's tent was reached, where a number of men and women +were assembled. Ali was seated on a black leather cushion, clipping a +few hairs from his upper lip, a female attendant holding up a +looking-glass before him. + +He enquired whether the stranger could speak Arabic, and being answered +in the negative he remained silent. The ladies, however, asked a +thousand questions, inspected his apparel, searched his pockets, and +obliged him to unbutton his waistcoat to display the whiteness of his +skin. + +In the evening the priests announced prayer. Before they departed his +Moorish guide told him that Ali was about to present him with something +to eat. On looking round he saw some boys bringing a wild hog, which +they tied to one of the tent ropes, when Ali made signs to him to kill +and dress it for supper. Though very hungry, he did not think it +prudent to eat any part of an animal so much detested by the Moors, and +therefore replied that he never touched such food. The hog was then +untied, in the hopes that it would run at the stranger, the Moors +believing that a great enmity subsists between hogs and Christians. In +this, however, they were disappointed, for the animal no sooner regained +his liberty than he began to attack indiscriminately every person who +came in his way, and at last took shelter under the couch upon which the +king was sitting. + +Park was after this conducted to a hut, where he found another wild +hog--tied there to a stick for the purpose of annoying him. It +attracted a number of boys, who amused themselves by beating it with +sticks, till they so irritated the animal that it ran and bit at every +person within reach. + +A number of people came in and made him take off his stockings to +exhibit his feet, and then his jacket and waistcoat to show them how his +clothes were put off and on. + +Day after day he was treated in the same manner. He was also compelled +to undertake various offices. First, he was told to shave the head of +one of the young princes, but, unaccustomed to use a razor, he soon cut +the boy's skin, on seeing which the king ordered him to desist. + +On the 18th his black servant, Johnson, was brought in as as a prisoner +before Ali by some Moors, who had also seized a bundle of his clothes +left at Jarra. Of these Ali took possession, and Park was unable to +obtain even a clean shirt or anything he required. The Moors next +stripped him of his gold, his watch, the amber he had remaining and one +of his pocket compasses. Fortunately he had hidden the other in the +sand near his hut. This, with the clothes on his back, was the only +thing Ali now left him. + +Ali, on examining the compass, wished to know why the small needle +always pointed to the Great Desert. Park, unwilling to inform him of +the exact truth, replied that his mother lived far beyond the sands of +the Sahara, and that while she was alive the piece of iron would always +point that way and serve as a guide to conduct him to her. Ali, +suspecting that there was something magical in it, was afraid of keeping +so dangerous an instrument in his possession. + +The Moors now held a council to determine what should be done with the +stranger. Some proposed that he should be put to death, others that he +should only lose his right-hand, and one of Ali's sons came to him in +the evening and with much concern informed him that his uncle had +persuaded his father to put out his eyes. Ali, however, replied that he +would not do so until Fatima, the queen, who was at present in the +north, had seen him. + +In vain Park begged that he might be permitted to return to Jarra. Ali +replied that he must wait till Fatima had seen him, and that then he +should be at liberty to go, and that his horse should be restored to +him. + +So wearied out was he at last with all the insults he received that he +felt ready to commit any act of desperation. + +One day Ali sent to say that he must be in readiness to ride out with +him, as he intended to show him to some of his women. They together +visited the tents of four different ladies, at every one of which he was +presented with a bowl of milk and water. They were all remarkably +corpulent, which in that country is the highest mark of beauty. They +were also very inquisitive, examining minutely his hair and skin, though +affecting to consider him as a sort of inferior being to themselves, and +pretending to shudder when they looked at the whiteness of his skin. +Notwithstanding the attention shown him by these fat dames, his +condition was not improved, and he was often left without even food or +water, while suffering fearfully from the heat. + +Ali at length moved his camp, and Park was sent forward under the escort +of one of the king's sons. The new encampment was larger than that of +Benowm, and situated in the midst of a thick wood, about two miles +distant from a neighbouring town, called Bubaka. Here Park was +introduced to queen Fatima by Ali. She seemed much pleased at his +coming, shaking hands with him, even though Ali had told her that he was +a Christian. She was a remarkably corpulent woman, with an Arab cast of +countenance and long hair. + +After asking a number of questions, with the answers to which she +appeared interested, she became perfectly at her ease and presented her +visitor with a bowl of milk. She was, indeed, the only person who +treated Park kindly during his stay. + +Both men and cattle suffered much from thirst, and though Ali had given +him a skin for containing water, and Fatima once or twice presented him +with a small supply, yet such was the barbarous disposition of the +Moors, that when his boy attempted to fill his skin at the wells, he +generally received a sound drubbing for his presumption. One night, +having in vain attempted to obtain water, he resolved to try his fortune +himself at the wells, which were about half a mile distant. About +midnight he set out, and, guided by the lowing of the cattle, he reached +the place. Here a number of Moors were drawing water, but he was driven +by them from each well in succession. At last he reached one where +there was only an old man and two boys. He earnestly besought the first +to give him some water. The old man complied, and drew up a bucket; but +no sooner did Park take hold of it than, recollecting that the stranger +was a Christian, and fearing that his bucket might be polluted, he +dashed the water into the trough, and told him to drink from thence. +Though the trough was none of the largest, and three cows were already +drinking in it, Park knelt down, and, thrusting his head between two of +the cows, drank with intense pleasure till the water was nearly +exhausted. + +The rainy season was now approaching, when the Moors evacuate the +country of the negroes and return to the skirts of the Great Desert. + +Ali looked upon Park as a lawful prisoner, and though Fatima allowed him +food and otherwise treated him kindly, she had as yet said nothing about +his release. + +Fortunately for him, Ali had resolved to send an expedition to Jarra, of +two hundred Moorish horsemen, to attack Daisy. Park obtained permission +to accompany them, and, through the influence of Fatima, he also +received back his bundle of clothes and his horse. + +On the 26th of May, accompanied by Johnson and his boy Demba, he set out +with a number of Moors on horseback, Ali having gone on before. On his +way Ali's chief slave came up and told Demba that Ali was to be his +master in future; then, turning to Park, said, "The boy goes back to +Bubaka, but you may take the old fool," meaning Johnson, "with you to +Jarra." Park in vain pleaded for Demba, but the slave only answered +that if he did not mount his horse he would send him back likewise. +Poor Demba was not less affected than his master. Having shaken hands +with the unfortunate boy, and assured him that he would do everything in +his power to redeem him, Park saw him led off by three of Ali's slaves. + +At Jarra he took up his lodgings in the house of an old acquaintance, +Dayman, whom he requested to use his influence with Ali to redeem the +boy, and promised him a bill on Dr Laidley for the value of two slaves +the moment he brought him to Jarra. + +Ali, however, considering the boy to be Park's principal interpreter, +would not liberate him, fearing that he would be instrumental in +conducting him to Bambarra. + +Still Park was eager, if possible, to continue his journey, but Johnson +refused to proceed further. At the same time he foresaw that he must +soon fall a victim to the Moors if he remained where he was, and that if +he went forward singly he must encounter great difficulties, both from +the want of an interpreter and the means of purchasing food. On the +other hand he was very unwilling to return to England without +accomplishing his mission. He therefore determined to escape on the +first opportunity at all risks. This arrived sooner than he expected. + +On the 26th of June news was brought that Daisy had taken Simbug, and +would be at Jarra the next day. Hearing this, the people began packing +up their property and beating corn for their journey, and early in the +morning nearly half had set off--the women and children crying, the men +looking sullen and dejected. + +Though Park was sure of being well treated could he make himself known +to Daisy, yet as he might be mistaken for a Moor in the confusion, he +thought it wisest to mount his horse with a large bag of corn before +him, and to ride away with the rest of the townspeople. + +He again fell in with his friend Dayman and Johnson. They pushed on two +days' journey to the town of Queira. + +While Park was out tending his horse in the fields on the 1st of July, +Ali's chief slave and four Moors arrived at Queira, and Johnson, who +suspected the object of their visit, sent two boys to overhear their +conversation. From them he learned that the Moors had come to convey +Park back to Bubaka. This was a terrible stroke to him, and, now +convinced that Ali intended to detain him for ever in captivity, or +perhaps to take his life, he determined at all risks to attempt making +his escape. He communicated his design to Johnson, who, though he +approved of it, showed no inclination to accompany him. Park therefore +resolved to proceed by himself, and to trust to his own resources. + + + +CHAPTER THREE. + +MUNGO PARK'S TRAVELS CONTINUED. + +PARK ESCAPES AT NIGHT--PURSUED BY MOORS AND ROBBED--FEARFUL SUFFERING; +FROM THIRST--FINDS WATER--KINDLY TREATED BY AN OLD WOMAN--WANDERINGS IN +THE FOREST--REACHES BAMBARRA--ILL-TREATED--REACHES THE NIGER--ARRIVES AT +SEGO, THE CAPITAL--THE KING REFUSES TO SEE HIM--SENT TO A DISTANT +VILLAGE--ALMOST STARVING--A COMPASSIONATE WOMAN TAKES HIM INTO HER HOUSE +AND FEEDS HIM--KING MANSONG ORDERS HIM TO QUIT THE COUNTRY--ENTERS +SANSANDING ON THE NIGER--THE MOORS THREATEN HIM FOR BEING A CHRISTIAN-- +WRITES CHARMS FOR HIS HOST--PROCEEDS--FOLLOWED BY A LION--HIS HORSE +FALLS SICK, AND, LEAVING THE ANIMAL, HE PROCEEDS ON FOOT--PROCEEDS DOWN +THE NIGER TO MOORZAN--DETERMINES TO RETURN--FINDS HIS HORSE ALIVE--RAINY +SEASON COMMENCES--AGAIN REACHES SANSANDING--INHOSPITABLY TREATED-- +REPULSED FROM NUMEROUS PLACES--SWIMS SEVERAL RIVERS--BETTER TREATED AS +HE GETS WESTWARD--A NEGRO MERCHANT AT RAMMAKO RECEIVES HIM HOSPITABLY-- +SETS OFF WITH A SINGING MAN AS HIS GUIDE--CONDUCTED BY TWO SHEPHERDS-- +DESPOILED OF HIS CLOTHES AND HORSE BY ROBBERS--IN DANGER OF PERISHING-- +REACHES SIBIDOOLOO--MANSA, THE CHIEF MAN, RECOVERS HIS HORSE AND +CLOTHES--SUFFERS FROM FEVER--PEOPLE STARVING--CONTINUES HIS JOURNEY-- +KINDLY TREATED AT KAMATIA BY A BUSHREEN--KAFA TAURA--STARTS WITH A SLAVE +CARAVAN--ATTACKED BY BEES--DEATH OF A SLAVE--SUFFERINGS OF SLAVES-- +REACHES PISANIA--SAILS BY WAY OF AMERICA FOR ENGLAND--REACHES HOME. + +The time had arrived when, as Park felt, he must either again submit to +the tyrannical treatment of Ali, or perish possibly in attempting to +escape. At night he got ready a bundle of clothes, consisting of two +shirts and two pair of trousers, with a cloak and a _few_ other +articles; but he had not a single bead to purchase food for himself or +his horse. About daybreak Johnson came and told him that the Moors were +asleep. The awful crisis had now arrived; a cold perspiration stood on +his brow as he thought of the dreadful alternative and reflected that +one way or the other his fate must be decided in the course of the day. +To deliberate was to lose the only chance of escape; so, taking up his +bundle, he stepped gently over the negroes sleeping in the air, mounted +his horse, bade Johnson farewell, desiring him to take particular care +of the papers with which he had intrusted him, and to say that he had +left him in good health, on his way to Bambarra. + +He rode on, expecting every moment to be overtaken by the Moorish +horsemen. Some shepherds he encountered followed, hooting and throwing +stones at him. Scarcely was he out of their reach, and was again +indulging in the hopes of escaping, when he heard somebody call behind +him, and on looking back, he saw three Moors on horseback galloping at +full speed and brandishing their weapons. To escape was vain. He +stopped, and one of them, presenting his musket, told him that he must +go back to Ali. The effect of this announcement was to benumb his +faculties. He rode back with apparent unconcern, but he had not gone +far when the Moors, stopping, ordered him to untie his bundle. Having +examined the articles, they found nothing worth taking except his cloak, +and one of them, pulling it off, wrapped it about himself. It had +served to protect him from the rain in the day and the dews at night, +and was of the greatest value to him. He earnestly begged the robbers +to return it, but his petition was unheeded. As he attempted to follow +them to regain his cloak, one of the robbers struck his horse over the +head, and presenting his musket, ordered him to proceed no further. +Finding that the sole object of the Moors had been to plunder him, he +turned his horse's head towards the east, thankful to have escaped with +his life. + +As soon as he was out of sight of the robbers, he struck into the woods +and pushed on with all possible speed. He had at length obtained his +liberty--his limbs felt light, even the desert looked pleasant. He soon +recollected, however, that he had no means of procuring food, nor a +prospect of finding water. + +He directed his course by compass in the hopes of at length reaching +some town or village in the kingdom of Bambarra. + +His thirst, in consequence of the burning heat of the sun, reflected +with double violence on the sand, became intense. He climbed a tree in +the hopes of seeing some human habitation. Nothing appeared around but +thick underwood and hillocks of white sand. + +At sunset he again climbed a tree, but the same sight met his eyes. +Descending, after taking the saddle off his horse's back, he was +suddenly seized with giddiness, and fell to the ground believing that +the hour of death was fast approaching. He recovered, however, just as +the sun was sinking behind the trees, and now, summoning up all his +resolution, he determined to make another effort to prolong his +existence. + +He had gone on some distance further when he perceived some lightening +in the north-east, a delightful sight, for it promised rain, and soon he +heard the wind roaring among the bushes. He was expecting the +refreshing drops, when in an instant he was covered with a cloud of +sand. It continued to fly for nearly an hour; then more lightening +followed and then down came a few heavy drops of rain, enabling him to +quench his thirst by wringing and sucking his clothes. + +He travelled on during the night, which was intensely dark, till he +perceived a light ahead. Cautiously approaching it he heard the lowing +of cattle and the clamorous tongues of the herdsmen, which made him +suspect that it was a watering-place belonging to the Moors. Rather +than run the risk of falling into their hands he retreated, but being +dreadfully thirsty, and fearing the approach of the burning day, he +thought it prudent to search for the wells which he expected to find at +no great distance. + +While thus engaged he was perceived by a woman, who screaming out, two +people ran to her assistance from the neighbouring tents and passed +close to him. + +Happily he escaped from them and, plunging again into the woods, after +proceeding a mile he heard a loud and confused noise. Great was his +delight to find that it arose from the croaking of frogs, which was +music to his ears. + +At daybreak he reached some shallow pools full of large frogs, which so +frightened his horse that he was obliged to keep them quiet by beating +the water till he had drank. Having quenched his own thirst, he +ascended a tree to ascertain the best course to take, when he observed a +pillar of smoke about twelve miles off. Directing his course to it he +reached a Foulah village belonging to Ali. Hunger compelled him to +enter it, but he was denied admittance to the _dooty's_ house, and could +not obtain even a handful of corn. Reaching, however, a humble hut at +which an old motherly-looking woman sat spinning cotton, he made signs +that he was hungry. She immediately laid down her distaff, and desired +him in Arabic to come in, setting before him a dish of _kous-kous_. In +return he gave her one of his pocket-handkerchiefs, and asked for a +little corn for his horse, which she readily brought him. + +While his horse was feeding the people collected round him, and from +their conversation he discovered that they proposed seizing him and +conveying him back to Ali. He therefore tied up his corn and, lest it +might be supposed that he was running from the Moors, driving his horse +before him he took a northerly direction, followed by the boys and girls +of the town. Having got rid of his troublesome attendants he struck +into the woods, where he was compelled to pass the night with his saddle +for a pillow. He was awakened by three Foulahs, who, taking him for a +Moor, told him that it was time to pray. Without answering them he +saddled his horse and made his escape. + +The next day he took shelter in the tent of a Foulah shepherd, who +charitably gave him boiled corn and dates, although he was recognised as +a Christian. He here purchased some corn in exchange for some brass +buttons, and again took the road to Bambarra, which he resolved to +follow for the night. Hearing some people approaching, he thought it +prudent to hide himself, which he did in the thick brushwood. He there +sat holding his horse by the nose to prevent him neighing, equally +afraid of the natives without and the wild beasts within the forest. +The former took their departure, and he went on till past midnight, when +the croaking of frogs induced him to turn off from the road, that he and +his steed might quench their thirst. Having discovered an open place +with a single tree in the midst of it, he lay down for the night. He +was disturbed towards morning by the sound of wolves, which made him +once more mount. + +On the morning of the 5th of July he reached a negro town in the +confines of Bambarra. It was a small place surrounded by high walls, +inhabited by a mixture of Mandingoes and Foulahs, chiefly employed in +the cultivation of corn. The people were suspicious of his character, +some supposing him to be an Arab, others a Moorish sultan, but the +_dooty_, or chief magistrate, who had been at Gambia, took his part, and +assured them that he was a white man. On its being reported that he was +going to Sego, the capital, several women came and begged that he would +enquire of Mansong what had become of their children, who had been +carried off to fight. + +He was allowed to take his departure without molestation, and on the 6th +reached the town of Dingyee. + +When he was about to depart the next morning, the landlord begged him to +give him a lock of his hair, understanding that white men's hair made a +_saphie_, or charm, which would bestow on the possessor all their +knowledge. This he willingly promised to do, but the landlord's thirst +for learning was such that he cropped nearly the whole of one side of +his head, and would have done the same with the other had not Park told +him that he wished to reserve some of this precious merchandise for a +future occasion. + +Having reached the town of Wassiboo, shortly afterwards eight fugitive +Kaartan negroes, who had escaped from the tyrannical government of the +Moors, arrived, on their road to offer their allegiance to the king of +Bambarra. Park gladly accepted their invitation to accompany them on +their road. + +His horse at the end of three days, becoming completely knocked up, he +dismounted and desired his companions to ride on, telling them he would +follow; but they declined leaving him, declaring that lions were +numerous, and that, though they would not attack a body of people, they +would soon find out a single individual and destroy him. One of the +party, therefore, insisted on remaining with him, and he and his friend, +after he had rested, overtook their companions, passing through several +of the numerous towns in this part of the country. His horse, now +becoming weaker and weaker, he was obliged to drive the animal on before +him the greater part of the day, so that he did not reach Geosorro till +late in the evening. The _dooty_ of the place refused to give him or +his companions food, so he lay down supperless to sleep. Their host, +however, relented, and about midnight he was awakened with the joyful +information that victuals were prepared. + +Next day his fellow-travellers, having better horses, went on ahead, and +he was walking barefoot, driving his own poor animal before him, when he +met a coffle, or caravan, of about seventy slaves coming from Sego. +They were tied together by their necks with thongs of bullock's hide +twisted like a rope, seven slaves upon a thong, and a man with a musket +between every seven. They were bound for Morocco. + +On arriving at the next place he found that his companions had gone on +without him, but he fell in, the following day, with two negroes going +to Sego, who afforded him their company. + +In the village through which he passed he was constantly taken for a +Moor. The people jeered at him, laughing at his tattered and forlorn +appearance. He, however, again overtook the Kaartans, who promised to +introduce him to the king. + +As they were riding along over some marshy ground, and he was anxiously +looking around for the river which he now supposed to be near, one of +his companions called out, "_Geo affilli_!" ("See water!") and, looking +forward, he saw with infinite pleasure the great object of his mission-- +the long-sought-for majestic Niger, glittering in the morning sun, as +broad as the Thames at Westminster, and flowing slowly to the east. He +hastened to the brink, and having drunk of the water, offered up his +fervent thanks in prayer to the Great Ruler of all things for having +thus far crowned his endeavours with success. + +Sego, the capital of Bambarra--at which he had now arrived--consists, +properly speaking, of four distinct towns: two on the north and two on +the south bank of the Niger. They are surrounded by high mud walls. +The houses are built of clay, of a square form with flat roofs--some of +them of two stories, and many of them are whitewashed. Moorish mosques +are seen in every quarter; and the streets, though narrow, are broad +enough for every useful purpose in a country where wheel-carriages are +unknown. It contains about thirty thousand inhabitants. + +While waiting to cross the river, a messenger arrived, informing him +that the king could not possibly see him until he knew what had brought +him into the country, and that he must not venture to cross the river +without his majesty's permission. He was directed to pass the night in +a distant village; but when he reached it, no one would admit him. He +was regarded with astonishment and fear, and was obliged to sit all day +without food in the shade of a tree. He fully expected to have to pass +the night in the same place; but about sunset, after he had turned his +horse loose, a woman, perceiving that he was weary and dejected, +enquired into his situation. Casting looks of pity upon him, she took +up his saddle and bridle, and told him to follow her. Having conducted +him into her hut, she lighted her lamp, spread a mat on the floor and +signified that he might remain there for the night. Finding that he was +very hungry, she brought him a fine fish for supper. Having thus +attended to the stranger, telling him that he might sleep in safety she +called her women around her and desired them to resume their task of +spinning cotton, in which they continued to employ themselves the +greater part of the night, lightening their labours by songs, some of +which had reference to their white visitor. + +Several days passed, when a messenger arrived from Mansong with a bag in +his hands. He told Park that it was his Majesty's pleasure he should +forthwith depart from the neighbourhood of Sego, but that the king, +wishing to relieve a white man in distress, had sent him five thousand +cowries. From the conversation Park had with the guide, he ascertained +that Mansong would willingly have seen him, but that he was apprehensive +of being unable to protect him against the blind and inveterate malice +of the Moorish inhabitants. His conduct, therefore, was at once prudent +and liberal. + +He was the same evening conducted to a village about seven miles to the +eastward, where he was well received. His guide told him that if Jenne +was really the place of his destination, the journey was one of greater +danger than he might suppose; for, although that town was nominally a +part of the King of Bambarra's dominions, it was in fact a city of the +Moors--the chief part of the inhabitants being Bushreens, a fanatical +Mahommedan sect. He heard, too, that Timbuctoo, the great object of his +search, was entirely in possession of that savage and merciless people, +who allow no Christian to live there. He had, however, advanced too far +to think of returning with uncertain information, and he determined to +proceed. + +Being provided with a guide, he left the village on the morning of the +24th, travelling through a highly cultivated country, the scenery +bearing a greater resemblance to that of England than he had expected to +find in the middle of Africa. + +The people were everywhere employed in collecting the fruit of the shea +trees, from which they prepared vegetable butter. In the evening he +reached the large town of Sansanding, the resort of numerous Moorish +caravans from the shores of the Mediterranean. In the harbour he +observed twenty large canoes, and others arrived while he was there. He +was received into the house of the _dooty_, Counti Mamadi. Scarcely had +he arrived when hundreds of people surrounded him, all speaking +different dialects, several of them declaring that they had seen him in +various parts of the continent. It was evident that they mistook him +for somebody else. One of them, a _shereef_, from Suat, declared that +if he refused to go to the mosque he would carry him there. He had +little doubt that the Moor would have put his threat into execution had +not his host interposed in his behalf. The latter said that, if he +would let his guest alone for the night, in the morning he should be +sent about his business. This somewhat appeased them, but even after he +had retired to his hut the people climbed over the pailings to look at +him. + +At midnight, when the Moors had retired, Mamadi paid him a visit and +earnestly desired him to write a _saphie_, or charm, observing, "If a +Moor's _saphie_ is good, a white man's must needs be better." Park +readily furnished him with one, which was in reality the Lord's Prayer, +a reed serving for a pen, charcoal and gum-water for ink and a thin +board for paper. + +Allowed to proceed, as he and his guide were crossing an open plain with +a few scattered bushes, the guide wheeled his horse round, called loudly +to him and, warning him that a lion was at hand, made signs that he +should ride away. His horse was too much fatigued to do this, so they +rode slowly past the bush, and he, not seeing anything himself, thought +the guide had been mistaken. Suddenly the Foulah put his hand to his +mouth exclaiming, "God preserve us!" To his great surprise he then +perceived a large red lion a short distance from the bush, his head +couched between his fore paws. Park expected that the creature would +instantly spring upon him, and instinctively pulled his foot from the +stirrups to throw himself on the ground, that his horse might become the +victim rather than himself; but probably the lion was not hungry, for he +quietly allowed the traveller to pass though fairly within his reach. + +The next day his horse completely broke down, and the united strength of +himself and his guide could not place the animal again upon his legs. +He sat down for some time beside the worn-out associate of his +adventures; but, finding him still unable to rise, he took off the +saddle and bridle and placed a quantity of grass before him. While he +surveyed his poor steed as he lay panting on the ground, he could not +suppress the sad apprehension that he should himself in a short time lie +down and perish in the same manner from fatigue and hunger. With this +foreboding he left his horse, and with great reluctance followed his +guide on foot along the banks of the river until he reached the small +village of Kea. + +Here he parted from his Foulah guide, whom he requested to look after +his horse on his return, which he promised to do. + +From Kea he went down the river in a canoe, and thence to Moorzan, a +fishing town on the northern bank, and was then conveyed across the +stream to Silla, a large town. Here, after much entreaty, the _dooty_ +allowed him to enter his house to avoid the rain, but the place was damp +and he had a smart attack of fever. Worn down by sickness, exhausted +with hunger, and fatigued, half-naked, without any article of value by +which he could procure provisions, clothes, or lodgings, he began to +reflect seriously on his situation, and was convinced by painful +experience that the obstacles to his further progress were +insurmountable. The _dooty_ approved of the resolution he had arrived +at of returning, and procured a fisherman to carry him across to +Moorzan, whence he got back to Kea. The brother of the _dooty_ was +starting for Modiboo. He took his saddle, which he had left at Kea, +intending to present it to the king of Bambarra. + +Travelling along the banks of the river, the footprints of a lion quite +fresh in the mud were seen. His companion, therefore, proceeded with +great circumspection, insisting that Park should walk before him. This +he declined doing, when his guide threw down the saddle and left him +alone. He therefore continued his course along the bank, and believing +that the lion was at no great distance, he became much alarmed, and took +a long circuit through the bushes. + +He at last arrived at Modiboo. While conversing with the _dooty_ of the +place he heard a horse neigh in one of the huts. The _dooty_ inquired +with a smile if he knew who was speaking to him. He explained himself +by telling Park that his horse was still alive and somewhat recovered +from his fatigue, and that he must take the animal with him. + +Though tolerably well treated at the villages where he stopped, he in +vain endeavoured to obtain a guide. The rains were now falling, and the +country, it was supposed, would soon be completely flooded. He heard +that a report had been abroad that he had come to Bambarra as a spy and +that, as Mansong had not admitted him into his presence, the _dooties_ +of the different towns might treat him as they pleased. + +A little before sunset of the 11th of August he reached Sansanding. +Here even Mamadi, who had formerly been so kind to him, scarcely gave +him a welcome, and everyone seemed to shun him. Mamadi, however, came +privately to him in the evening, and told him that Mansong had +despatched a canoe to bring him back, and advised him to set off from +Sansanding before daybreak, cautioning him not to stop at any town near +Sego. He therefore resumed his journey on the 12th, and in the +afternoon reached the neighbourhood of Kabba. + +As he approached, one of several people who were standing at the gate +ran towards him and, taking his horse by the bridle, led him round the +walls of the town and, pointing to the west, told him to go along or it +would be the worse for him. He in vain represented the danger of being +benighted in the woods, exposed to the inclemency of the weather and the +fury of wild beasts. "Go along," was the only answer he received. He +found that these negroes had acted thus from kindness, as the king's +messengers who had come to seize him were inside the town. + +Being repulsed from another village, he went on till he reached a small +one somewhat out of the road, and sat down under a tree by a well. Two +or three women came to draw water and, perceiving the stranger, enquired +where he was going. On Park telling them to Sego, one of them went in +to acquaint the _dooty_. In a little time the _dooty_ sent for him, and +permitted him to sleep in a large hut. + +Next day he again set forward, meeting with the same inhospitable +treatment as before, and having for three days to subsist on uncooked +corn. He was repulsed in like manner from the gates of Taffara; and at +the village of Sooha, which he reached next day, he in vain endeavoured +to procure some corn from the _dooty_, who was sitting by the gate. +While Park was speaking to the old man, he called to a slave to bring +his paddle along with him, and when he brought it, told him to dig a +hole in the ground, pointing to a spot at no great distance. While +the slave was thus engaged, the _dooty_ kept muttering the +words--"Good-for-nothing! A real plague!" These expressions, coupled +with the appearance of the pit the lad had dug, which looked much like a +grave, made Park think it prudent to decamp. He had just mounted his +horse, when the slave who had gone into the village returned, dragging +the corpse of a boy by a leg and arm, which he threw into the pit with +savage indifference, and at once began to cover it up with earth. + +At sunset Park reached Koohkorro, a considerable town, and the great +market for salt. Here he was received into the house of a Bambarran +who, once a slave to a Moor, had obtained his freedom and was now a +merchant. Finding that his guest was a Christian, he immediately +desired him to write a _saphie_, saying that he would dress him a supper +of rice if he would produce one to protect him from wicked men. Park +therefore covered the board on both sides, when his landlord, wishing to +have the full force of the charm, washed the writing from the board into +a calabash with a little water and, having said a few prayers over it, +drank the whole draught; after which, lest a single word should escape, +he licked the board until it was quite dry. The _dooty_ of the place +next sent to have a _saphie_ written--a charm to procure wealth. So +highly satisfied was he with his bargain that he presented the traveller +with some meal and milk, and promised him in the morning some more milk +for his breakfast. + +When Park had finished his supper of rice and salt, he lay down upon a +bullock's hide and slept quietly until morning, this being the first +good meal and refreshing sleep he had enjoyed for a long time. + +After leaving this place, having been misdirected as to his road, he +reached a deep creek. Rather than turn back, he went behind his horse +and pushed him headlong into the water; then, taking the bridle in his +teeth, he swam to the other side. This was the third creek he had +crossed in this manner since he had left Sego. His clothes were, +indeed, constantly wet from the rain and dew; and the roads being very +deep and full of mud, such a washing was sometimes pleasant. + +At Bammakoo, which he reached on the evening of the next day, he was +received into the house of a negro merchant, of whom there are many +wealthy ones in the place, trading chiefly in salt. He was feasted also +by a number of Moors, who spoke good Mandingo, and were more civil to +him than their countrymen had before been. One of them had travelled to +Rio Grande, and spoke highly of the Christians. From this man he +received a present of boiled rice and milk. He also met a slave +merchant who had resided some years on the Gambia, who informed him +about the places which lay in his intended course to the westward. He +was told that the road was impassable at this season of the year, and +that there was a rapid river to cross. Having, however, no money to +maintain himself, Park determined at all risks to push on, and, having +obtained a singing man who said he knew the road over the hills, set off +the next day. His musical conductor, however, lost the right path and, +when among the hills, leaping to the top of a rock as if to look out for +the road, suddenly disappeared. Park managed, however, just before +sunset, to reach the romantic village of Koomah, the sole property of a +Mandingo merchant and surrounded by a high wall. Though seldom visited +by strangers, whenever the weary traveller did come to his residence the +merchant made him welcome. + +Park was soon surrounded by the harmless villagers, who had numberless +questions to ask and in return for the information he gave them brought +corn and milk for himself and grass for his horse, and kindled a fire in +the hut where he was to sleep. + +Accompanied by two shepherds as guides, he set out the next day from +Koomah. The shepherds, however, walked on ahead, troubling themselves +but little about him. + +The country was very rough, and the declivity so great that a false step +would have caused him and his horse to be dashed to pieces. + +As he was riding on, the shepherds being about a quarter of a mile +before him, he heard a loud screaming as from a person in great +distress. Supposing that a lion had taken off one of the shepherds, he +hurried on to ascertain what had happened. The noise had ceased, and in +a short time he perceived one of the shepherds lying among the long +grass near the road, and concluded that the man was dead; but when he +came close to him the shepherd whispered to him to stop, telling him +that a party of armed men had seized upon his companion and shot two +arrows at him. While considering what to do, he saw at a little +distance a man sitting upon the stem of a tree, and also the heads of +six or seven more who were crouching down among the grass, with muskets +in their hands. It being impossible to escape, he rode forward towards +them, hoping that they were elephant hunters. By way of opening the +conversation he inquired if they had shot anything; but in answer one of +them ordered him to dismount, and then, as if recollecting himself, +waved with his hand as a sign that Park might proceed. He had ridden +some way when they shouted to him again to stop, and told him that the +King of the Foulahs had sent them to carry him to Fooladoo. Without +hesitating, Park turned and followed them. + +They had reached a dark part of the wood when one of them observed in +the Mandingo language, "This place will do," and immediately snatched +his hat from his head. Feeling that resistance was useless, he allowed +them to proceed till they had stripped him quite naked. While they were +examining their plunder, Park begged them to return his pocket compass; +but, on his pointing to it as it lay on the ground, one of the banditti +cocked his musket, swearing that he would shoot him if he presumed to +take it. After this some of them went away with his horse, and the +remainder stood considering whether they should leave him quite naked or +allow him something to shelter him from the sun. Humanity at last +prevailed, and they returned the worst of his two shirts and a pair of +trousers; one of them also threw back his hat, in the crown of which he +kept his memorandums--probably the reason why they did not wish to keep +it. + +Here he was in the midst of a vast wilderness in the depth of the rainy +season, naked and alone, and surrounded by savage animals and men still +more savage, five hundred miles from the nearest European settlement. +His spirits began to fail, but he reflected that no human prudence could +possibly have averted his present sufferings, and that, though a +stranger in a strange land, he was still under the protecting eye of +that Providence who has condescended to call Himself the stranger's +friend. At this moment the extreme beauty of a small moss in +fructification caught his eye. Though the whole plant was not much +larger than the top of one of his fingers, he could not contemplate the +delicate conformation of its roots, leaves, and capsules without +admiration. "Can that Being," he thought, "who brought this plant to +perfection look with unconcern upon the situation and sufferings of +creatures formed after his own image? Surely not." He started up and, +disregarding both hunger and fatigue, travelled forward, assured that +relief was at hand. + +In a short time he overtook the two shepherds who had come with him from +Koomah. They were greatly surprised to see him, observing that they +never doubted that the Foulahs had murdered him. In their company he +arrived at Sibidooloo, the frontier town of the kingdom of Manding. The +chief man in the place, called Mansa, received him most kindly, and when +Park related how he had been robbed of his horse and apparel, he +observed, with an indignant air, "Sit down. You shall have everything +restored to you--I have sworn it." He at once gave directions to his +people to search for the robbers. Park was conducted into a hut, where +he was provided with food, and a crowd of people assembled, all of whom +commiserated his misfortunes and vented imprecations against the +Foulahs. + +As there was a great scarcity of provisions in the place, Park, after +spending two days there, begged Mansa to allow him to depart. He gave +him permission to do so, provided he would remain at a town called Wanda +for a few days, until he received some account of his horse and goods. + +He took his departure accordingly on the morning of the 28th, and +reached Wanda about noon of the 30th. + +The head man of the place, who was a Mahommedan, acted not only as chief +magistrate, but as schoolmaster. He kept his school in an open shed, +where the traveller was desired to take up his lodgings. Park was very +anxious for his clothes, as those he had on were completely worn-out, +his shirt being like a piece of muslin and dirty in the extreme. + +He here spent nine days suffering much from fever. On the 6th two +people arrived from Sibidooloo, bringing his horse and clothes, but his +pocket compass, greatly to his vexation, was broken to pieces. + +Every day he observed several women come to the house to receive a +certain quantity of corn. Knowing how valuable this article was at the +present juncture, he enquired of his host whether he maintained these +poor women from pure bounty or expected a return when the harvest should +be gathered in. + +"Observe that boy," said he, pointing to a fine child about five years +of age. "His mother has sold him to me for forty days' provisions for +herself and the rest of her family. I have bought another boy in the +same manner." + +Sick as he was, Park thought it necessary to take his leave of his +hospitable landlord, to whom he presented his horse as the only +recompense he could make, desiring him to convey his saddle and bridle +as a present to Mansa of Sibidooloo. As he was about to set out, his +host begged him to accept his spear as a token of remembrance and a +leather bag to contain his clothes. Having converted his half-boots +into sandals, he travelled with more ease. + +Although the people were suffering great distress from the failure of +the crops, he was in general most hospitably treated. His landlord at +Kinyeto, observing that he had hurt his ankle, insisted on his remaining +several days till he could walk with the help of a staff. + +Notwithstanding suffering from fever and exposed to constant rain, he +continued his journey, narrowly escaping being detained at the town of +Mansia by the inhospitable chief, who insisted on being paid for the +small amount of food he had provided. + +On September 16th he reached the town of Kamalia. He was here conducted +to the house of a Bushreen, Kafa Taura. He was collecting a caravan of +slaves to convey to the European settlements on the Gambia, as soon as +the rains should be over. He found Kafa seated in his house surrounded +by several _slatees_ who proposed joining the caravan. He was reading +to them from an Arabic book, and enquired if his guest understood it. +On being answered in the negative, he desired one of the _slatees_ to +fetch a curious little book which had been brought from the west +country. It proved to be a book of Common Prayer, and Kafa expressed +great joy on hearing that Park could read it, for some of the _slatees_, +observing the colour of his skin, now become yellow from sickness, +suspected that he was an Arab in disguise. Kafa, however, had now no +doubt concerning him, and kindly promised him every assistance in his +power. + +Park was here laid up completely by fever, but Kafa, who had provided a +quiet hut for his accomodation, advised him to remain within it, +assuring him that if he did not walk out in the wet he would soon be +well. + +He passed five weeks in a gloomy and solitary manner, seldom visited by +any person except his benevolent landlord, who came daily to enquire +about his health. + +When the rains became less frequent the country began to grow dry and +the fever left him, but in so debilitated condition that it was with +difficulty he could crawl with his mat to the shade of a tamarind tree +at a short distance, there to enjoy the refreshing smell of the +corn-fields. The benevolent and simple manners of the negroes, and the +perusal of Kafa's little volume greatly contributed to his restoration. + +In the beginning of December, Kafa began to make arrangements for his +journey, and to complete the purchase of his slaves. + +As he had to be absent about his affairs for a month, Park was left +during the time to the care of a good old Bushreen, who acted as +schoolmaster to the younger people of Kamalia. + +The long-wished-for day of the departure of the caravan, the 19th of +April, at length arrived, and the irons being removed from the slaves, +the _slatees_ assembled at the door of Kafa's house, where the bundles +were all tied up, and everyone had his load assigned him. + +Kafa had twenty-seven slaves for sale, but eight others afterwards +joined them, making in all thirty-five. The schoolmaster who was on his +return to Woradoo, the place of his nativity, took with him eight of his +scholars. Altogether, the come numbered seventy-three persons. + +The caravan was followed for about half a mile by most of the +inhabitants of Kamalia; and when they had arrived at the top of a hill, +from whence they had a view of the town, they were all ordered to sit +down--those belonging to the coffle with their faces towards the west, +and the townspeople with theirs towards Kamalia. The schoolmaster, with +two of the principal _slatees_, having taken their places between the +two parties, pronounced a solemn prayer, after which they walked three +times round the coffle, making impressions in the ground with the ends +of their spears, and muttering something by way of a charm. When this +ceremony was ended, all the people belonging to the coffle sprang up +and, without taking a formal farewell of their friends, set forward. + +Another ceremony was performed when the party stopped to dine on the +road. Before commencing the meal, when each person was seated with +their quotas arranged before him in small gourd shells, the schoolmaster +offered up a short prayer that God and the holy prophet might preserve +them from robbers and all bad people, that their provisions might never +fail nor their limbs become fatigued. + +After stopping at the town of Kenytakooro till the 22nd of April, the +coffle commenced the journey through the Jallonka wilderness. The +country was very beautiful and abounded with birds and deer; but so +anxious were they to push on, that they made fully thirty miles that +day. Fatigued as they were, they were frequently disturbed in the night +by the howling of wild beasts and the bites of ants. + +On setting out in the morning Nealee, one of Kafa's female slaves +refused to drink the gruel offered her. The country was extremely wild +and rocky, and Park began to fear that he should be unable to keep up +with the party. Others, however, suffered more than he did. The poor +female slave began to lag behind; and, complaining dreadfully of pains +in her legs, her load was taken from her and given to another, and she +was ordered to keep in front of the coffle. + +As the party were resting near a rivulet a hive of bees was discovered +in a hollow tree, and some of the people were proceeding to obtain the +honey, when an enormous swarm flew out, and, attacking every one, made +them fly in every direction. Park being the first to take alarm, was +the only person who escaped with impunity. The slaves had, however, +left their bundles behind them, and to obtain them it was necessary to +set the grass on fire to the east of the hive, when the wind driving the +flames along, the men pushed through the smoke and recovered their +bundles. They also brought with them poor Nealee, whom they found lying +by the rivulet stung in the most dreadful manner. On her refusing to +proceed further, she was cruelly beaten with a whip, when, suddenly +starting up, she walked for four or five hours; she then made an attempt +to run away, but, from weakness, fell to the ground. Though unable to +rise, the whip was a second time applied, when Kafa ordered that she +should be placed on an ass. Unable to sit on it, she was carried +afterwards on a litter by two slaves. + +The unfortunate slaves, who had travelled all day in the hot sun with +loads on their heads, were dreadfully fatigued; and some of them began +to snap their fingers--a sure sign, among negroes, of desperation. They +were, therefore, put in irons, and kept apart from each other. Next day +poor Nealee was again placed on the ass; but unable to hold herself on, +frequently fell to the ground. At length the cry arose +of--"_Kang-tegi_!" ("Cut her throat!") As Park did not wish to see this +horrible operation performed, he went on ahead; but soon afterwards he +was overtaken by one of Kafa's domestic slaves with poor Nealee's +garment on the end of a bow. On making inquiries of the man, he replied +that Kafa and the schoolmaster would not consent to her being killed, +but had left her on the road, where probably she was soon devoured by +wild animals. + +Such is one example of the cruel treatment received by the unhappy +slaves. The old schoolmaster, however, was so affected, that he fasted +the whole of the ensuing day. + +The party now travelled on rapidly, everyone being apprehensive that he +might otherwise meet with the fate of poor Nealee. + +The coffle had still many dangers to encounter. Receiving information +that two hundred Jallonkas were lying in wait to plunder them, they +altered their course and travelled with great secrecy until midnight, +when they entered the town of Koba. Here they remained some days to +escape the Jallonkas. + +The next town they reached, Malacotta, was the birthplace of the +schoolmaster, whose brother came out to meet him. The interview was +very natural and affecting. They fell on each other's neck, and it was +some time before either of them could speak. The schoolmaster then +turning, pointed to Kafa, saying, "This is the man who has been my +father in Manding. I would have pointed him out sooner to you, but my +heart was too full." + +They were now in the country of friends, and were well received at each +of the towns they entered. + +Park, however, witnessed numerous instances of the sad effects of the +slave trade. A singing man, the master of one of the slaves who had +travelled for some time with great difficulty, and was found unable to +proceed further, proposed to exchange him for a young slave girl +belonging to one of the townspeople. The poor girl was ignorant of her +fate until the bundles were all laid up in the morning, and the coffle +ready to depart, when, coming with some of the other young women to see +the coffle set out, her master took her by the hand and delivered her to +the singing man. Never was a face of serenity more suddenly changed +into one of the deepest distress; the terror she manifested on having +the load put on her head and the rope round her neck, and the sorrow +with which she bid adieu to her companions, were truly affecting. +Notwithstanding the treatment which the slaves received, they had hearts +which could feel for the white stranger amidst their infinitely greater +sufferings, and they frequently of their own accord brought water to +quench his thirst, and at night collected branches and leaves for his +bed, during that weary journey of more than five hundred British miles. + +Knowing that the greater number were doomed to a life of slavery in a +foreign land, he could not part from them without feeling much emotion. + +At last Pisania was reached, and Park was warmly welcomed as one risen +from the dead by the Mr Ainsleys and Dr Laidley. They had heard that +the Moors had murdered him as they had murdered Major Haughton. He +learned with great sorrow that neither of his two attendants, Johnson +and Demba, had returned, and that nothing was known of them. Park gave +double the amount he had promised to Kafa, and sent a present also to +the good old schoolmaster at Malacotta. Kafa, who had never before +heard English spoken, listened with great attention to Park, when +conversing with his friends. His astonishment at the various articles +of furniture in the houses was very great; but it was still greater when +he saw Mr Ainsley's schooner lying in the river. He could not +comprehend the use of the masts and sails, or conceive how so large a +body could be moved by the wind. He was frequently heard to exclaim, +with a sigh: "Ah! black men are nothing." + +After waiting at Pisania some time, finding no vessel likely to sail +direct for England, he took his passage on board a slave vessel bound +for South Carolina. She, however, meeting with bad weather, put into +Antigua, and from thence he sailed in an English packet, and arrived at +Falmouth on the 22nd of December, having been from England about two +years and seven months. + + + +CHAPTER FOUR. + +PARK'S SECOND JOURNEY. + +MARRIES--PREPARES FOR ANOTHER JOURNEY--ACCOMPANIED BY MESSRS. ANDERSON +AND SCOTT, LIEUTENANT MARTYN AND THIRTY-FIVE SOLDIERS, PROCEEDS TO +PISANIA BY WAY OF GOREE--ENGAGES ISAACO AS GUIDE--NUMEROUS ASSES-- +JOURNEY COMMENCED--THREE SOLDIERS DIE--ATTACKED BY BEES--SICKNESS AMONG +THE MEN INCREASES--ANNOYED BY LIONS--MESSRS. ANDERSON AND SCOTT ILL OF +FEVER--SEVERAL MEN LEFT BEHIND--ISAACO SEIZED BY A CROCODILE--NATIVES +ATTEMPT TO ROB THEM--A BRIDGE BUILT--REACH BANGASSI--SCOTT LEFT BEHIND, +SICK--THE CORPORAL AND MORE MEN DIE--MR. ANDERSON'S ILLNESS INCREASES-- +FOLLOWED BY LIONS--HEAVY RAINS--MEETS KAFA TAURA--THE NIGER REACHED-- +DESCENDS THE NIGER IN A CANOE--ISAACO TAKES HIS LEAVE--ALARMING +REPORTS--RECEIVES ENVOYS FROM MANSONG--CONTINUES VOYAGE IN CANOES-- +RECEIVES NEWS OF SCOTT'S DEATH--MR. ANDERSON DIES--A VESSEL BUILT-- +COMMENCES VOYAGE IN HER WITH LIEUTENANT MARTYN, TWO WHITE MEN AND SOME +SLAVES--ATTACKED BY NATIVES--CONTINUES VOYAGE--AGAIN ATTACKED--PARK AND +MARLYN DROWNED, OTHERS KILLED--ONE SLAVE ESCAPES, WHO GIVES AN ACCOUNT +OF THE TRAGEDY. + +Soon after his return to England Park married the daughter of Mr +Anderson, with whom he had served his apprenticeship, and resided a +couple of years with his mother and one of his brothers on the farm that +his father had occupied at Fowlshiels, in Scotland. After this he +practised his profession for some time at Peebles. But this sort of +life not satisfying his ardent temperament, on hearing from Sir Joseph +Banks that another expedition into Africa to explore the Niger was +proposed, he at once offered his services. + +Nothing, however, was settled till the year 1803, when, being directed +to hold himself in readiness to proceed to Africa, he engaged a native +of Mogadore, named Sidi Omback Boubi, then residing in London, to +accompany him to Scotland for the purpose of instructing him in Arabic. + +Nearly another year passed before all arrangements were concluded. It +was finally determined that the expedition should consist of Park +himself, his brother-in-law (Mr Anderson), and Mr George Scott, who +was to act as draughtsman, together with a few boat-builders and +artificers. They were to be joined at Goree by a party of soldiers of +the African corps stationed in that garrison. + +Three months after this elapsed ere they set sail on board the +"Crescent" transport on the 30th of January, 1805; and, after touching +at Saint Jago to obtain asses for the journey, they reached Goree on the +28th of March. + +There was no lack of volunteers, the whole garrison offering their +services. Thirty-five soldiers under the command of Lieutenant Martyn +of the Royal Artillery Corps were selected, as well as two sailors from +the "Squirrel" frigate. + +They left Goree on the 6th of April, the men jumping into the boats in +the highest spirits, and bidding adieu to their friends with repeated +huzzas. + +Landing at Kayee on the northern bank of the Gambia, they commenced +their overland journey to Pisania on the 27th of April. The weather was +intensely hot, and the asses, unaccustomed to carry loads, made their +march very fatiguing and troublesome, three of the animals sticking fast +in a muddy rice field soon after they started. + +So many delays had occurred that the rainy season was already +approaching, and it would have been more prudent had the expedition +remained at Goree or Pisania till the country had become again suitable +for travelling. It was just possible, however, that they might reach +the Niger before the middle of June, when the rainy season usually +commences, and that river could then have been navigated without much +exposure or toil. So eager, however, was Mr Park to proceed, that he +disregarded the warnings of his friends, and determined to set forth on +his journey. + +Several days were lost at Pisania in arranging the burdens of the asses +and in purchasing more animals, as those they possessed were not +sufficient for carrying all the loads. + +He here engaged a Mandingo priest named Isaaco, who was also a +travelling merchant, to serve as a guide, and, on the 4th of May, all +being ready, the caravan set forth from Pisania, whence nearly ten years +before Park had commenced his adventurous journey into the interior. + +The arrangements for the march were well devised. The animals as well +as their loads were marked and numbered with red paint, and a certain +number allotted to the care of each of the six messes into which the +soldiers were divided. Mr Scott and Isaaco generally led, Lieutenant +Martyn marched in the centre, and Anderson and Park brought up the rear. + +All their forethought, however, could not guard them against the deadly +attacks of the climate. The asses from the first gave them a great deal +of trouble--many, from being overloaded, lying down in the road, while +others kicked off their bundles--so that the caravan made but slow +progress. + +They had not gone far when two of the soldiers died, and, a few days +afterwards, another lost his life. + +At most of the places through which they passed they were well received; +but at the town of Bady the chief man demanded enormously high duties, +and sent a large band of armed followers to collect them. When Isaaco +was sent over to Bady to enquire the reason of this conduct, he was +seized, his weapons taken from him, and he was tied to a tree and +flogged. It was proposed to attack the place; but early the next day +the guide was sent back, and the matter was settled by payment of a +portion of the duties demanded. + +While halting at a creek, the asses being unloaded, some of the men went +in search of honey. Unfortunately they disturbed a large swarm of bees, +which, rushing out, attacked both men and beasts. The asses, being +loose, galloped off, but the horses and people were fearfully stung. + +A fire, which had been kindled for cooking, being deserted, spread in +all directions, setting the bamboos in flames and very nearly destroying +their luggage. Two of the asses died here, and others were missing. + +Several of the soldiers now fell sick, and were mounted on the horses +and spare asses. + +At Toombin, which the caravan reached on the 16th of June, in the +neighbourhood of Malacotta, the good old schoolmaster, Park's former +friend, arrived just as the baggage had started, having travelled all +night to visit him. Park invited him to go forward to the next place +where they should halt, that he might reward him for his former +kindness. + +After leaving the village he found Hinton, one of the party, to whom Mr +Anderson had lent his horse, lying under a tree, and the horse grazing +at a little distance. Park put the sick man on the horse and drove it +before him, but was at length compelled to leave him. A mile further on +he came to two others lying in the shade of a tree, whom he placed on +his own and Mr Anderson's horses, and carried on to the next village. +Hence he sent back for poor Hinton, and left the three in charge of the +_dooty_, giving him beads to purchase provisions for them should they +live, and to bury them if they died. + +On the 22nd one of the carpenters was also left behind at his own +request. A soldier, Bloore, lost his way in the woods while looking for +an ass which had strayed, and in the search another sick man, Walter, +was found. He had laid himself down among the bushes. He died soon +after being taken up, and Park with his sword, and two of the soldiers +with their bayonets, dug his grave in the desert, covering it over with +a few branches. + +Thus, one by one, in rapid succession, Park's companions, attacked by +fever, either sank on the road or were left behind, too probably to +perish. + +On the 30th of June both Mr Anderson and Mr Scott were attacked by the +fever. + +While encamped during a violent tornado, when it was necessary to put +out the watch-fires, a peculiar roaring and growling was heard. +Supposing the sound to be that of wild boars, Park and Lieutenant Martyn +went in search of them and fired several shots into the bush. The +natives on their return told them that they were not boars, but young +lions, and that unless a very good look out was kept they would probably +kill some of the cattle during the night. About midnight the lions +attempted to seize one of the asses, which so alarmed the rest that they +broke the ropes and came full gallop in amongst the tents. Two of the +lions followed so close that the sentry cut one with his sword, but +dared not fire for fear of killing the asses. + +Both Anderson and Scott were worse, but Park urged them to proceed. +Alston, a seaman, had become so weak that he was unable to sit his +horse, and entreated to be left in the woods till the morning. Park +gave him a loaded pistol and some cartridges to protect himself. + +The next day, the 4th of July, the river Wanda, which they reached, was +found to be greatly swollen. There was but one canoe. In this the +baggage was carried over, and Isaaco endeavoured to make the asses cross +by swimming and pushing them before him. While thus employed, just as +he reached the middle of the stream, a crocodile suddenly rose and, +seizing him by the left thigh, pulled him under water. With wonderful +presence of mind he thrust his finger into the creature's eye; on which +it quitted its hold, and Isaaco attempted to reach the further shore, +calling out for a knife. The crocodile returned and seized him by the +other thigh, and again pulled him under water. He had recourse to the +same expedient, and thrust his finger into its eyes with such violence +that it again quitted him and, when it rose, after flouncing about, swam +down the stream. Isaaco reached the other side, and as soon as the +canoe returned Park went over, and, having dressed his wounds with +adhesive plaster, he was carried to the nearest village, fortunately not +far off. Park here found himself very ill and unable to stand erect +without feeling a tendency to faint, while all the people were so sickly +that they could with difficulty carry the loads into the tents, though +rain threatened. Greatly to their astonishment, Ashton the sailor +arrived, with his fever much abated, but quite naked, having been +stripped of his clothes by some natives during the night. + +Important as it was to push on, they found it impossible to do so +without Isaaco, whose recovery seemed doubtful, though the delay would +expose them to the full violence of the rain shortly to be expected. +Isaaco, under Park's care, notwithstanding his fears, rapidly recovered; +and on the 10th of July they were able once more to travel forward, +taking a west and north-west direction. + +They were now exposed to the thieving propensities of the natives, who +took every opportunity of carrying off whatever they could lay their +hands on. Among the chief robbers were the sons of a potentate called +Mansa Mumma, whose town they reached on the 12th. As Park was looking +out for an easy ascent over some rocky ground, two of these young +princes, approaching, snatched his musket from his hand and ran off with +it. He instantly sprang from his saddle and followed the robber with +his sword, calling to Mr Anderson to tell some of the people to look +after his horse. Anderson got within musket-shot of the man, but, +seeing that he was Mumma's son, had some doubt about shooting him. The +thief made his escape, and on Park's return he found that the other +prince had stolen his great coat. An elder brother, who had been +engaged as a guide, told him that after what had happened he would be +justified in shooting the first who attempted to steal from the loads. +The soldiers were accordingly ordered to load their muskets and be +ready. Notwithstanding this, a short time afterwards a man made a dash +at one of the asses which had strayed a little from the rest, took off +the load, and began to cut it open with his knife. The soldiers fired, +but did not hit him, and he made his escape, leaving the load behind +him. Another seized a soldier's knapsack and attempted to make off with +it. The soldier covered him with his piece, but it flashed in the pan, +and the robber escaped. Another robber, however, who had attempted to +carry off a great coat from an ass driven by one of the sick men, was +wounded, and Mansa's son insisted that he should be killed, as otherwise +they would not fulfil the orders of the king, who had directed that +every person be shot who stole from the caravan. + +In this way, day after day, they were attacked, and they had little +doubt that one of the sick men who had fallen behind had been robbed and +murdered by these people. + +A deep stream being reached, it was proposed to form a raft; but the +Mandingoes insisted that it would be necessary to build a bridge to +enable them to cross. It was most ingeniously and rapidly constructed. +The people, however, were too sickly to carry the baggage over, and +negroes were therefore hired for the purpose, as well as to swim the +asses across. + +Another of the soldiers here lay down and expired, and, as the sun was +very hot, it was impossible to stop and bury him. + +As he was riding on, Park found Mr Scott lying by the side of the path, +too sick to walk, and, shortly afterwards, Lieutenant Martyn lay down in +the same state. + +Pushing on to the town of Mareena, Park sent back a party to bring in +his sick companions. + +Hence they proceeded to Bangassi, six miles distant, the capital of the +Chief Serenummo. While encamped outside, one of the sick men, who had +been left under the shade of a tree, was nearly being torn to pieces by +wolves, which he found, on awakening, smelling at his feet. Ill as he +was, he started up and rushed to the camp. + +Here the corporal died, and several soldiers, as well as one of the +carpenters, insisted on being left behind. Park handed to the _dooty's_ +son a quantity of amber and other articles of trade, that the poor men +might be taken care of. + +Poor Park's troubles increased. Mr Scott, who rode his horse, +continued very ill, and the soldiers were so weak that, when the loads +fell off the asses, they were unable to lift them on again. In the +course of one day's march Park himself had to assist in re-loading +thirteen of the animals. The caravan was also followed by wolves, who +prowled round them during the night, showing too plainly what would be +the fate of any of the sick men who dropped behind. Provisions also +became scarce, and thieves likewise dodged their footsteps, taking every +opportunity of robbing them. + +On the 10th of August, as Park, who was bringing up the rear, reached a +stream, he found many of the soldiers sitting on the ground, and Mr +Anderson was lying under a bush, apparently dying. He took his +brother-in-law on his back, and carried him across the stream, though it +took him up to his middle. He had then to carry other loads, and get +the animals over, having thus to cross sixteen times. He then put Mr +Anderson on his horse and conveyed him to the next village, where, +however, a solitary fowl was the only food he could obtain. + +During the last two marches four more men had been lost, and, though Mr +Scott was somewhat recovered, Mr Anderson was in a very dangerous +state. He struggled on, however, for another day, when, after he had +passed a number of sick men, Mr Anderson declared that he could ride no +further. Park, having turned the horses and ass to feed, sat down in +the shade to watch the pulsations of his dying friend. In the evening, +there being a fine breeze, Mr Anderson agreed to make another attempt +to move on, in the hopes of reaching a town before dark. They had not +proceeded above a mile, when they heard a noise very much like the bark +of a large mastiff, but ending in a hiss like that of a cat. Mr +Anderson was observing: "What a bouncing fellow that must be," when +another bark nearer to them was heard, and presently a third, +accompanied by a growl a short distance further. Coming to an opening +in the bushes, three enormous lions of a dusky colour were seen bounding +over the long grass, abreast of each other, towards them. Fearing that, +should they come near, and his piece miss fire, the lions would seize +them, Park advanced and shot at the centre one. The animals stopped, +looked at each other, and then bounded away, and, though one again +stopped while he was loading his piece, they all disappeared. The +lions, however, followed him; but Mr Anderson having a boatswain's +call, Park took it and whistled, and made as much noise as possible, so +that they did not again molest him. Notwithstanding Mr Anderson's +reduced condition he persevered in travelling, and, being placed in a +hammock constructed out of a cloak, was carried along by two men. Mr +Scott, however, complaining of sickness, shortly afterwards dropped +behind. + +On entering Doomblia during heavy rain, greatly to his satisfaction Park +met Kafa Taura, the worthy negro merchant who had been so kind to him on +his former journey. He had now come a considerable distance to see him. + +From hence he sent back to enquire for Mr Scott, but no information +could be obtained about him. + +On the 19th of August the sad remnant of the expedition ascended the +mountainous ridge which separates the Niger from the remote branches of +the Senegal. Mr Park hastened on ahead, and, coming to the brow of the +hill, once more saw the mighty river making its way in a broad stream +through the plain. + +Descending from thence towards Bambakoo, the travellers pitched their +tents under a tree near that town. + +Of the thirty-four soldiers and four carpenters who left the Gambia, +only six soldiers and one carpenter reached the Niger, three having died +during the previous day's march. + +As the only canoe Park could obtain would carry but two persons besides +their goods, he and Mr Anderson embarked in it, leaving Mr Martyn and +the men to come down by land with the asses. He himself was suffering +greatly from dysentery. In the evening they landed on some flat rocks +near the shore, and were cooking their supper, when the rain came down, +and continued with great violence all night. + +The next day Mr Martyn and the rest of the people overtook them. + +On the following day Isaaco, having performed the task he had +undertaken, of guiding them to the Niger, received the payment agreed +on; and Park likewise gave him several articles, and told him that when +the palaver was adjusted at Sego, he should have all the horses and +asses for his trouble. + +He here also prepared the present he purposed to offer to Mansong, the +king of Bambarra, and which he sent forward to Sego by Isaaco. + +Every day brought them some unfavourable news or other. At one time it +was reported that Mansong had killed Isaaco with his own hand, and +threatened to do the same with all the whites who should come into +Bambarra. These reports proved to be false, for Isaaco himself arrived +in a canoe from Sego, bringing back all the articles sent to Mansong, +who had directed that they should be taken up to Samee, and that he +would send a person to receive them from Park's own hands. Mansong had +promised that the expedition should pass, but whenever Isaaco mentioned +it particularly, or related any incident that had happened on the +journey, Mansong began to make squares and triangles in the sand before +him with his finger, and continued to do so as long as Isaaco spoke +about them. This the superstitious monarch probably did to defend +himself against the supposed incantations of the white man. + +On the 22nd of September the chief counsellor of Mansong, Modibinne, and +four grandees, arrived by a canoe, bringing a fat milk-white bullock as +a present. Next morning Modibinne and the grandees came to the camp and +desired Park to acquaint them with the motives which had induced him to +come into their country. Park explained them, telling them that it was +his wish to sail down the Joliba, or Niger, to the place where it mixes +with the salt water, and that if the navigation was found open, the +white men would send up vessels to trade at Sego, should Mansong wish +it. Modibinne replied that the object of the journey was a good one, +and prayed that God would prosper it, adding, "Mansong will protect +you." + +The presents intended for the king were then spread out, and appeared to +give great satisfaction. Two more soldiers died that evening. On the +26th the expedition, in open canoes, left Samee. Park felt himself very +unwell, and the heat was intense, sufficient to have roasted a sirloin. +Isaaco, however, having formed an awning over the canoe with four sticks +and a couple of cloaks, Park found himself better. + +On the 2nd two other privates died, the body of one of whom the wolves +carried off, the door of the hut having been left open. + +Wishing to obtain cowries, Park opened a market at Marroboo to dispose +of his goods, and so great was the demand for them that he had to employ +three tellers at once to count his cash. In one day he turned 25,756 +pieces of money-cowries. + +The sad news now reached him of the Mr Scott's death, and on the 28th +of October his brother-in-law, Mr Anderson, breathed his last. "No +event," Park remarks, "which took place during the journey ever threw +the smallest gloom over his mind till he laid Mr Anderson in the grave. +He then felt himself left a second time lonely and friendless amidst +the wilds of Africa." + +Some days before this, Isaaco had returned with a large canoe, but much +decayed and patched. Park, therefore, with the assistance of Bolton, +one of the surviving soldiers, took out all the rotten pieces, and, by +adding on the portion of another canoe, with eighteen days' hard labour +they changed the Bambarra canoe into his Majesty's schooner "Joliba." +Her length was forty feet, breadth six feet; and, being flat-bottomed, +she drew only one foot of water when loaded. In this craft he and his +surviving companions embarked on the 16th of November, on which day his +journal closes. He intended next morning to commence his adventurous +voyage down the Joliba. Besides Park and Lieutenant Martyn, two +Europeans only survived. They had purchased three slaves to assist in +the navigation of the vessel, and Isaaco had engaged Amadi Fatouma to +succeed him as interpreter. This increased their number to nine. + +Descending the stream, they passed the Silla and Jenne without +molestation; but lower down, in the neighbourhood of Timbuctoo, they +were followed by armed canoes, which they beat off, killing several of +the natives. They had, indeed, to fight their way down past a number of +places, once striking on the rocks, and being nearly overset by a +hippopotamus which rose near them. + +Having a large stock of provisions, they were able to proceed without +going on shore. Amadi was the only person who landed in order to get +fresh provisions. + +At Yaour Park sent a present to the king by one of the chiefs, but, the +chief inquiring whether he intended to return, Park replied that he had +no purpose of doing so. This induced the chief to withhold the presents +from the king, and who, accordingly, indignant at being thus treated, +put Amadi into irons, took all his goods from him, and sent a force to +occupy a rock overhanging the river where it narrows greatly. On +arriving at this place, Park endeavoured to pass through, when the +people began to throw lances and stones at him. He and his companions +defended themselves for a long time, till two of his slaves in the stern +of the boat were killed. + +Finding no hopes of escape, Park took hold of one of the white men and +jumped into the water, and Martyn did the same, hoping to reach the +shore, but were drowned in the attempt. The only slave remaining in the +boat, seeing the natives persist in throwing their weapons, entreated +them to stop. On this they took possession of the canoe and the man, +and carried them to the king. Amadi, after being kept in irons three +months, was liberated, and on finding the slave who had been taken in +the canoe, learned from him the manner in which Mr Park and his +companions had perished. The only article left in the canoe had been a +sword-belt, which Isaaco, who was afterwards despatched to learn +particulars of the tragedy, obtained--the sole relic of the expedition. + +Park could not have been aware of the numerous rapids and other +difficulties he would have had to encounter on descending the upper +portion of the Niger. In all probability his frail and ill-constructed +vessel would have been wrecked before he had proceeded many miles below +the spot where he lost his life. Had he, however, succeeded in passing +that dangerous portion, he might have navigated the mighty stream to its +mouth. + +Although at first the account of Park's death was not believed in +England, subsequent enquiries left no doubt that all the statements were +substantially correct. + +Thus perished, in the prime of life, that heroic traveller, at the very +time when he had good reason to believe that he was about to solve the +problem of the Niger's course. + + + +CHAPTER FIVE. + +TRAVELS OF DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. + +PRECEDED BY HORNEMAN--ROENTGEN--TUCKEY AND OTHERS--MAJOR LAING'S +JOURNEY--LIEUTENANT CLAPPERTON AND DR. OUDNEY, JOINED BY MAJOR DENHAM, +LEAVE TRIPOLI--DIFFICULTIES WITH THE PACHA--DENHAM SAILS FOR ENGLAND-- +THE PACHA SENDS AFTER HIM--BOO-KHALOUM APPOINTED CONDUCTOR--JOURNEY +ACROSS THE DESERT--ILLNESS OF CLAPPERTON AND OUDNEY--NUMBERLESS +SKELETONS OF SLAVES--ARABS' ILL-TREATMENT OF THE NATIVES--LAKE CHAD-- +EMPIRE OF BORNOU--RECEPTION AT KOUKA BY THE SHEIKH--BODY-GUARD OF THE +SHEIKH--BARCA GANA, HIS GENERAL--VISIT TO THE SULTAN OF BIRNIE--ELEPHANT +AND BUFFALO HUNTING--DENHAM JOINS AN EXPEDITION UNDER BACA GANA--MEET +THE SULTAN OF MANDARA--ATTACK ON THE FELATAHS--DENHAM NEARLY LOSES HIS +LIFE--BOO-KHALOUM KILLED--BARCA GANA'S TROOPS TAKE TO FLIGHT--THE MAJOR +KINDLY TREATED BY A DEPOSED PRINCE--RETURNS TO KOUKA. + +Between Park's two expeditions, several travellers endeavoured to solve +some of the many problems connected with the geography of Africa. + +The first person sent out by the Association was a young German, +Frederick Horneman, in the character of an Arab merchant. He travelled +from Alexandria to Cairo, where he was imprisoned by the natives on the +news arriving of Bonaparte's landing in the country. He was, however, +liberated by the French, and set out on the 5th of September, 1798, with +a caravan destined for Fezzan. + +On one occasion, when passing through Siwah, the bigoted Mahommedan +inhabitants surrounded the caravan, having heard that two Christians +belonged to it, and promising to let it proceed provided these were +delivered up to them. Having, however, by his knowledge of the Koran, +satisfied them that he was a true Mahommedan, being protected by the +other members of the caravan, he was allowed to proceed. + +He reached Mourzouk in safety, and there endeavoured to gain information +about the states to the south of Timbuctoo. He, however, heard but +little, though he found that Houssa was not, as supposed, a city, but a +region embracing many kingdoms, the inhabitants of which were said to be +superior in civilisation to those of the surrounding people. + +He remained here for a considerable time, and then visited Tripoli, +after which he returned to Mourzouk, and started thence in April, 1800. + +From that time no information was received directly from him; but Major +Denham many years afterwards learned that he had penetrated as far as +Nyffe on the Niger, where he fell a victim to disease. + +Another German, Roentgen, also sent out by the Association in 1809, +started from Mogadore and, it is supposed, was murdered by his guides. + +Two Americans, one a seaman, named Adams, and the other a supercargo, +James, having been wrecked on the west coast at different periods, +travelled for a considerable distance through the north-west portion of +the continent. Adams was carried to Timbuctoo, where he remained six +months in 1810. He found the city chiefly inhabited by negroes; and he +describes the few religious ceremonies which took place as pagan. The +city had lately been conquered by the king of Bambarra, who had +established there a negro government. Even the largest houses were +little more than huts, built of timber frames filled in with earth. He +was ultimately liberated by the British consul at Mogadore. + +Riley, who was wrecked in 1815, was carried as a slave through the +country. From a caravan merchant, Sidi Hamet, who purchased him from +his first captors, he obtained much information about the country. From +the account he received, it appears at that time that Timbuctoo was +larger and better built than Adams described it. Sidi Hamet also +travelled a considerable distance down the banks of the Niger, which, +though at first running due east, afterwards turned to the south-east. +Travelling sixty days, he reached Wassanah, a place twice as large as +Timbuctoo, the inhabitants being hospitable and kind-hearted. From +thence he heard that boats with cargoes of slaves sailed two months, +first south and then west, down the river, till they came to the sea, +where they met white people in vessels armed with guns. This was the +most correct account hitherto received of the course of the Niger. +Riley was also rescued by the English consul at Mogadore. + +In 1816 the English Government sent out an expedition to proceed up the +Congo, under Captain Tuckey, but he and his followers fell victims to +the climate. + +At the same time another expedition had started under Major Peddie, and +Captain Campbell, but they both, with Lieutenant Stokoe, of the navy, +died the following year. + +In 1821 Major Laing, starting from Sierra Leone, made a journey in +search of the source of the Niger, but was compelled to return. + +In 1819 Mr Ritchie, with Lieutenant Lyon, of the navy, started from +Tripoli, intending to proceed southward to Bornou, in order to trace the +downward course of the Niger, but Mr Ritchie died, and Lieutenant Lyon +was unable to get further than the southern frontier of Fezzan. + +Owing to the judicious conduct of Mr Warrington, the British Consul at +Tripoli, the English were held in high estimation at that court, and the +pacha, who was looked upon by the wild tribes of the south as the most +potent of all monarchs, assured him that any of his countrymen could +travel with perfect safety from his territories to Bornou. + +The Government, therefore, considering circumstances so favourable, +organised a fresh expedition, headed by Lieutenant Clapperton and Dr +Oudney, of the Navy. Major Denham having volunteered his services, they +were accepted, and he joined his intended companions at Tripoli. He was +accompanied by Mr Hillman, a shipwright, who undertook to direct the +building of a vessel on the Niger. + +After visiting the pacha, and having accompanied him on a hawking party +in the desert, Major Denham set out on the 5th of March, 1822, to join +his two companions, who had gone forward to the beautiful valley of +Memoom. + +When near Sockna, they met a _kafila_, or caravan of slaves, in which +were about seventy negroes, who told them that they came from the +different regions of Soudan, Begharmi, and Kanem. Those from Soudan had +regular features and a pleasing expression of countenance. + +On reaching Mourzouk they were disappointed in their expectation of +receiving assistance from the sultan, who declared that it was +impossible to obtain either camels or horses before the next spring, to +enable them to proceed. Finding this, Major Denham determined to return +to Tripoli, to represent to the pacha that something besides mere +promises must be given. + +Attended by his negro servant, Barca, he reached that town on the 12th +of June, and the pacha himself showing little inclination to render +assistance, he at once started for England, to represent the state of +affairs to the Government. He was, however, overtaken at Marseilles by +a messenger from the pacha entreating him to return, and assuring him +that he had appointed a well-known caravan leader, Boo-Khaloum, with an +escort to convey him to Bornou. + +On his return to Africa he found Boo-Khaloum and part of the escort +already waiting for him at the entrance of the desert. His new friend +delighted in pomp and show, and he and his attendants entered Sockna +attired in magnificent costumes, their chief himself riding a beautiful +Tunisian horse, the saddle and housing richly adorned with scarlet cloth +and gold. This African caravan merchant united the character of a +warlike chief and trader, his followers being trained not only to fight +in defence of his property, but to attack towns and carry off the +hapless inhabitants as slaves. Yet Book-Haloum was superior to most of +his age; he possessed an enlarged and liberal mind, and was considered +an honourable and humane man, while so great was his generosity that he +was adored by his people. + +On the 30th of October the caravan entered Mourzouk with all the parade +and pomp they could muster. Boo-Khaloum's liberality had made him so +popular that a large portion of the inhabitants of the town came out to +welcome him. + +Major Denham was greatly disappointed at not seeing his friends among +the crowd. He found that Dr Oudney was suffering from a complaint in +his chest, and that Clapperton was confined to his bed; indeed the +climate of Mourzouk is evidently very unhealthy. + +The arrangements for starting were not completed until the 29th of +November. In the meantime the other members of the expedition had +somewhat recovered. Major Denham had engaged a native of the Island of +Saint Vincent, of the name of Simpkins, but who, having traversed half +the world over, had acquired that of Columbus. He spoke Arabic +perfectly, and three European languages. Three negroes were also hired, +and a Gibraltar Jew, Jacob, who acted as store-keeper. These, with four +men to look after their camels, Mr Hillman and themselves, made up +their household to thirteen persons. Several merchants also joined +their party. Besides these, the caravan comprised one hundred and ten +Arabs, marshalled in tens and twenties under their different chiefs. + +The Arabs in the service of the pacha, who were to escort them to +Bornou, behaved admirably, and enlivened them greatly on their dreary +desert road by their wit and sagacity, as well as by their poetry, +extemporary and traditional. + +The camels and tents having been sent on before, the party started on +horseback on the evening of the day mentioned. Dr Oudney was suffering +from his cough, and neither Clapperton nor Hillman had got over their +ague, a bad condition in which to commence their arduous journey. + +The heat when crossing the desert was great; not a bird nor an insect +was to be seen moving through the air; but the nights were beautiful and +perfectly still, gentle breezes cooling the air. By digging a few +inches into the hot, loose soil, a cool and soft bed was obtained. +Through wide districts the surface was covered with salt, and from the +sides of hollows where it was broken, hung beautiful crystals like the +finest frost-work. + +Before proceeding far, objects sufficient to create the deepest horror +in their minds were met with. In all directions the ground was covered +with the skeletons of those who had perished in attempting to cross the +wilderness. At first only one or two were seen, but afterwards as many +as fifty or sixty were passed in a day. At one place a hundred were +found together, and near the wells of El Hammar they were lying too +thickly to be counted. One morning as Denham, dozing on his horse, was +riding, he was startled by a peculiar sound of something crashing under +the animal's feet, and, on looking down, he found that he was trampling +over two human skeletons, one of the horse's feet having driven a skull +before him like a ball. To some of the bones portions of the flesh and +hair still adhered, and the features of others were distinguishable. +Two skeletons of females lay close together, who had evidently died in +each other's arms. + +The Arabs, accustomed to such scenes, laughed at the sympathy exhibited +by the English, observing, with a curse on their fathers, that they were +only blacks. There can be no doubt that the larger group consisted of a +number of slaves captured by the Sultan of Fezzan, during a late +expedition he had made into Soudan. His troops, having left Bornou with +an insufficient supply of provisions, allowed their unhappy captives to +perish, while they made their escape with the food intended to support +them. + +One evening the major exhibited a book of drawings made by Captain Lyon, +to Boo-Khaloum. The portraits he understood, but he could not +comprehend the landscapes, and would look at one upside down. On seeing +a beautiful print of sand-wind in the desert, though it was twice +reversed, he exclaimed: "Why, it is all the same!" Probably a European, +even, who had never before cast his eye on the representation of a +landscape, would be long before he could appreciate the beauties of the +picture. One beautiful moonlight evening Denham exhibited his +telescope. An old _hadji_, after he had been helped to fix the glass on +the moon, uttering an exclamation of wonder, walked off as fast as he +could, repeating words from the Koran. + +Few adventures were met with; but one whole day the travellers were +annoyed by a strong east wind, and the next day the wind and drifting +sand were so violent that they were compelled to keep their tents. They +had to sit in their shirts, as the sand could thus be shaken off as soon +as it made a lodgment, which with any other articles of dress could not +be done. Denham found the greatest relief by rubbing the neck and +shoulders with oil, and being shampooed by his servant, Barca's wife, +who, when a slave in the palace of the pacha, had learned the art. + +The Tibboos, a tribe who had for some time accompanied them, went off to +obtain some sheep, an ox, honey, milk and fat. On their return the milk +turned out sour camels' milk, full of sand, and the fat very rancid, +while a single lean sheep was purchased for two dollars. + +Some of their horses were very handsome and extremely fat, which arose +from being fed entirely on camels' milk, corn being too scarce for the +Tibboos to spare them. + +The girls of this tribe were pretty, but the men extremely ugly. + +Their Arabs, who were sent as an escort to oppose banditti, after a time +became dissatisfied at having nothing to do, and were evidently +contemplating inroads on the inhabitants. + +Denham, with Boo-Khaloum and a dozen horsemen, each having a footman +behind him, started off towards a spot where some Tibboo tents had been +seen. On their arrival they found that the shepherds had moved off, +knowing well how they should be treated by the white people, as they +called the Arabs. Their caution was made the excuse for plundering +them. "What! not stay to sell their sheep? the rogues!" exclaimed the +Arabs. + +After a time they came in sight of two hundred head of cattle and about +twenty persons--men, women and children--with camels, moving off. The +Arabs, slipping from behind their leaders, with a shout, rushed down the +hill, part running towards the cattle to prevent their escape. The +unfortunate people were rapidly plundered, the camels were brought to +the ground and the whole of their loads rifled. The poor women and +girls lifted up their hands, stripped as they were to the skin, but +Denham felt that he could do nothing for them beyond saving their lives. + +When Boo-Khaloum came up, however, he seemed ashamed of the paltry booty +his followers had obtained, and Denham seized the favourable moment to +advise that the Arabs should give everything back, and have a few sheep +and an ox for a feast. He gave the order, and the property was +restored, with the exception of ten sheep and a fat bullock. + +An old _maraboot_ assured Denham that to plunder those who left their +tents, instead of supplying travellers, was quite lawful. Too often the +natives are not only plundered, but murdered, by the armed attendants of +caravans as they make their way across the desert. + +The natives, as may be supposed, retaliate. Should any animal straggle +from the main body, it is certain to be carried off. Major Denham lost +a favourite dog, which was captured and eaten. + +On reaching Lara, a small town of conical-topped rush huts, to the +delight of the travellers they saw before them, from a rising ground, +the boundless expanse of Lake Chad, glowing with the golden rays of the +sun. They hastened down to the shores of this large inland sea, which +was darkened with numberless birds of varied plumage--ducks, geese, +pelicans and cranes four or five feet high, immense spoonbills of snowy +whiteness, yellow-legged plovers--all quietly feeding at half +pistol-shot. A large basket to supply their larder was soon filled. + +Moving along the shores of the lake, the caravan arrived at Woodie, a +negro town of considerable size. It was here arranged that the caravan +should wait till an embassy could be sent to the Sheikh of Bornou, to +obtain permission for presenting themselves before him. + +The empire of Bornou had, some twenty years before, been overrun and +subjected by the Felatahs, a powerful people to the west. The present +sheikh, a native of Kanem, though of humble birth, had by his superior +talents and energy rallied round him a band of warriors, and, pretending +that he had received a command from the prophet, hoisted the green flag, +and had in a few months driven the invaders out of the country, which +they had never since been able to occupy, though frequently attacking +his borders. + +While waiting for the sheikh's reply, Major Denham rode out early one +morning in search of a herd of a hundred and fifty elephants, which had +been seen the day before. He found them about six miles from the town, +on ground annually overflowed by the waters of the lake. They seemed to +cover the whole face of the country, and exceeded the number he expected +to see. Often, when forced by hunger, they approach the towns and +spread devastation throughout their march, whole plantations being +destroyed in a single night. Some antelopes were also seen, but they +never allowed the party to get near enough to hazard a shot. + +The country for the last eighteen days of their journey had been covered +with a grass which produces a calyx full of prickles. These adhere to +the dress and penetrate to the skin, to which they fasten themselves +like grappling-irons. They got between the toes of the poor dog Niger, +and into every part of his long silken hair, so as to make him unable to +walk. + +At the next camping-place hyaenas came close to their tents and killed a +camel, on the carcase of which a lion, when he had driven them away, +banqueted, when they returned and devoured what he had left. + +Several days' journey took the caravan into the neighbourhood of Kouka. +They had been told that the sheikh's soldiers were a few ragged negroes, +armed with spears, who lived upon the plunder of the black Kaffir +countries. Greatly to their astonishment, as they approached the town +they beheld a body of several thousand cavalry, drawn up in line and +extending right and left as far as they could see. + +As the Arabs approached, a yell was given by the sheikhs people, which +rent the air; and a blast being blown from their rude instruments, they +moved on to meet Boo-Khaloum and his Arabs. Small bodies kept charging +rapidly towards them, to within a few feet of their horses' heads, +without checking the speed of their own until the moment of their +halting; then they wheeled at their utmost speed with great precision, +shaking their spears over their heads, exclaiming, "_Baka_ _baka_!" +("Blessing! blessing!") They quickly, however, surrounded the caravan so +as to prevent it moving on, which greatly enraged Boo-Khaloum, but to no +purpose, as he was only answered by shrieks of welcome, and spears +unpleasantly rattled over the traveller's heads. In a short time, Barca +Gana, the sheikh's first general--a negro of noble aspect, clothed in a +figured silk _tobe_, mounted on a beautiful Mandara horse--made his +appearance, and cleared away those who had pressed upon them, when the +party moved on slowly towards the city. + +Arrived at the gates, Boo-Khaloum, with the English and about a dozen of +his followers, alone were allowed to enter. They proceeded along a wide +street completely lined with spearmen on foot, with cavalry in front of +them, to the door of the sheikh's residence. Here the horsemen were +formed up three deep, and the party halted while some of the chief's +attendants came out and, after a great many "_Baka's! baka's_!" retired, +when others performed the same ceremony. On this, Boo-Khaloum again +lost patience, and swore by the pacha's head that he would return to his +tents, if he was not immediately admitted. Denham advised him to +submit, and Barca Gana, appearing, invited him to dismount. The English +were about to do the same, when an officer intimated that the Arab alone +was to be admitted. + +Another half-hour, and the gates were again opened, and the four +Englishmen were called for. The strictest etiquette appeared to be kept +up at the sheikh's court; but the major and his companions declined +doing more in the way of reverence than bending their heads and laying +their right-hands on their hearts. They found the sheikh sitting on a +carpet, in a small, dark room. He was plainly dressed in a blue _tobe_ +of Soudan and a small turban, with armed negroes on either side of him, +and weapons hung up on the walls. His personal appearance was +prepossessing, and he had an expressive countenance and a benevolent +smile. + +After he had received the letter from the pacha, he enquired what was +their object in coming. They answered, to see the country and to give +an account of its inhabitants, produce and appearance, as their sultan +was desirous of knowing every part of the globe. His reply was that +they were welcome, and whatever he could show them would give him +pleasure. + +Huts had been built for them and an abundance of provisions was +provided, though the number of their visitors gave them not a moment's +peace, while the heat was insufferable. + +Next day they had another audience, to deliver their presents. With the +firearms, especially, the sheikh was highly delighted, and he showed +evident satisfaction on their assuring him that the king of England had +heard of Bornou and himself. Immediately turning to his councillors, he +observed: "This is in consequence of our defeating the Begharmis." Upon +this the chief who had most distinguished himself in this memorable +battle, Bagah Furby, demanded: "Did he ever hear of me?" The reply of +"Certainly!" did wonders for their cause. "Ah, then your king must be a +great man!" was re-echoed from every side. + +Every morning, besides presents of bullocks, camel-loads of wheat and +rice, leather skins of butter, jars of honey, and wooden bowls +containing rice with meat, and paste made of barley flour--savoury, but +very greasy--were sent to them. + +In a short time--by the exhibition of rockets, a musical box, and other +wonders--Denham appeared to have entirely won the sheikh's confidence. +Reports, however, had been going about that the English had come to spy +out the land, and intended to build ships on Lake Chad, in which they +would sail about and conquer the surrounding country. Reports were now +received that the Begharmis were approaching Bornou, and it was said +that the sheikh would immediately send a force into their country, in +order to punish their sultan for even thinking of revenge. + +The sheikh, in the meantime, had given them leave to visit all the towns +in his dominions, but on no account to go beyond them. He asked many +questions about the English manner of attacking a walled town; and, on +hearing that they had guns which carried ball of thirty-two pounds' +weight, with which the walls were breached, and that then the place was +taken by assault, his large dark eyes sparkled again, as he exclaimed: +"Wonderful! wonderful!" + +Although the sheikh was the real ruler of the country, he allowed the +existence of the hereditary sultan, a mere puppet, who resided at +Birnie. Boo-Khaloum advised that they should pay their respects to this +sovereign; and they accordingly set out for the place, which contained +about ten thousand inhabitants. They were first conducted to the gate +of the sultan's mud edifice, where a few of the court were assembled to +receive them. One, a sort of chamberlain, habited in eight or ten +_tobes_, or shirts, of different colours, carried an immense staff, and +on his head was a turban of prodigious size, though but a trifling one +compared to those they were destined to see at the audience on the +following morning. A large marquee was pitched for their reception, +which they found luxuriously cool. In the evening a plentiful repast +was brought them, consisting of seventy dishes, each of which would have +dined half-a-dozen persons with moderate appetites; and for fear the +English should not eat like the Bornouy, a slave or two arrived loaded +with live fowls for their dinner. + +Soon after daylight the next morning they were summoned to attend the +sultan. He received them in an open space in front of the royal +residence. They were compelled to stop at a considerable distance from +him, while his own people approached to within about a hundred yards, +passing first on horseback, and, after dismounting and prostrating +themselves before him, they took their places on the ground in front, +but with their backs to the royal person. He was seated in a sort of +cage made of cane, on a throne which appeared to be covered with silk or +satin. Nothing could be more absurd and grotesque than the figures who +formed his court. The sheikh, to make himself popular with all parties, +allowed the sultan to be amused by indulging in all the folly and +bigotry of the ancient negro sovereigns. Large bellies and large heads +are considered the proper attributes of the courtiers, and those who do +not possess the former by nature, make up the deficiency of protuberance +by a wadding, which, as they sit on horseback, gives them a most +extraordinary appearance, while the head is enveloped in folds of muslin +or linen of various colours, of such size as to make the head appear +completely on one side. The turbans are, besides, hung all-over with +charms enclosed in little red leather bags. The horse is also adorned +in the same manner. + +When the courtiers had taken their seats, the visitors were desired to +sit down. On this, the ugliest black that can be imagined, the only +person who approached the sultan's seat, asked for the presents. +Boo-Khaloum produced them, enclosed in a large shawl, and they were +carried unopened into the presence of the sultan. The English, by some +omission, had brought no presents. + +A little to their left was an extemporary declaimer, shouting forth the +praises of his master, with his pedigree, and near him stood a man with +a long, wooden trumpet, on which he ever and anon blew a blast. + +Nothing could be more ridiculous than the appearance of these people, +squatting down in their places, tottering under the weight and magnitude +of their turbans and their bellies, while the thin legs that appeared +underneath but ill accorded with the bulk of the other part. + +Immediately after the ceremony the travellers took their departure for +Angornou, a town containing at least thirty thousand inhabitants. The +market-place was crowded with people, and there were a number of +beggars. Linen was so cheap that all the men wore shirts and trousers; +but the beggars were seen holding up the arms of an old pair of the +latter, touching the shirt at the same time, and exclaiming: "But +breeches there are none; but breeches there are none." This novel mode +of drawing the attention of the passers-by so amused Denham that he +could not help laughing outright. + +He was, however, anxious to visit a large river to the southward of +Kouka, called the Shary; but was delayed by Dr Oudney's serious +illness, and the unsettled state of Book-Haloum's affairs with the +Arabs; indeed, so mutinous had some of these become, that he was at last +compelled to send thirty of them back again to Fezzan. + +Hillman had greatly pleased the sheikh by manufacturing a couple of +chests, and he was now requested to make a sort of litter, such as the +sheikh had heard were used by the sultans of Fezzan. + +Among other presents, the sheikh sent them a young lion about three +months old. It was a tame, good-natured creature, but as Denham was +under the necessity of refusing the animal a corner of his hut, it was +immediately in consequence killed. + +During the illness of his companions Major Denham made an excursion to +the shores of Lake Chad, accompanied by Maraymy, an intelligent black, +to whose charge he had been committed by the sheikh, where numerous +elephants and some beautiful antelopes were seen. The sheikh's people, +as they came near the elephants, began screeching violently. The +animals, though moving a little away, erected their ears, and gave a +roar that shook the ground under them. One was an immense fellow. The +party wheeled swiftly round him, and Maraymy casting a spear at him, +which struck him just under the tail, the huge brute threw up his +proboscis in the air with a loud roar, and from it cast such a volume of +sand as nearly to blind the major, who was approaching at the time. + +The elephant rarely if ever attacks, but, when irritated, he will +sometimes rush upon a man on horseback, and, after choking him with +dust, destroy him in a moment. + +Pursued by the horsemen, the animal made off at a clumsy, rolling walk, +but sufficient to keep the steeds at a full gallop. The major fired +twice at fifty yards' distance. The first shot which struck the animal +failed to make the least impression, and the second, though wounding him +in the ear, seemed to give him a moment's uneasiness only. After +another spear had been darted at him, which flew off his rough hide +without exciting the least sensation, the elephant made his escape. + +The Shooas, the original inhabitants of the country, are great hunters. +Mounted on horseback, a Shooa hunter seeks the buffalo in the swampy +regions near the lake, and, driving the animal he has selected to the +firm ground, rides on till he gets close alongside, when, springing up, +he stands with one foot on his horse and the other on the back of the +buffalo, through which he plunges his spear, driving it with tremendous +force into its heart. + +Denham heard of people called Kerdies, who inhabited islands far away in +the eastern part of the lake. They frequently make plundering +excursions even close up to Angornou, and carry off cattle and people in +their canoes, no means being taken to oppose them. + +The sheikh was very unwilling that his white visitor should cross the +Shary, for fear of the danger he would run. + +At length an opportunity occurred of seeing the country, which Denham +determined not to let slip. Boo-Khaloum, though sorely against his +will, had been induced by his Arabs to plan an expedition against the +pagan inhabitants of some villages in the mountains of Mandara, in order +to carry them off as slaves to Fezzan. He, wishing rather to visit the +commercial regions of Soudan, long held out against these nefarious +proposals. The sheikh, who wished to punish the people who were +constantly in arms against him, instigated the Arabs to induce +Boo-Khaloum to undertake the expedition, and at length, believing that +by no other means could he hope to make a profitable journey, he was +induced to comply. The sheikh, however, was unwilling that Major Denham +should be exposed to the dangers he would meet with, but, as he had +determined to go, at last gave his consent, appointing Maraymy to attend +him, and to be answerable for his safety. + +Boo-Khaloum and his Arabs, with the sheikh's forces under his general, +Barca Gana, had already got some distance ahead. Accompanied by +Maraymy, Denham overtook them when several miles from the city, and was +received with great civility by Barca Gana in his tent. He had been +kept some minutes outside while the general consulted his charm writer, +and his remark as he entered was: "If it was the will of God, the +stranger should come to no harm, and that he would do all in his power +for his convenience." + +Barca Gana had about two thousand of the sheikh's soldiers under his +command. He was himself, however, only a slave, but from his bravery +had been raised by his master to the rank of Governor of Angala and all +the towns on the Shary, as well as that of commander-in-chief of his +troops. He was accompanied by several guards of horse and foot, and a +band of five men, three of whom carried a sort of drum, who sang +extemporary songs while they beat time; another carried a pipe made of a +reed, and a fifth blew on a buffalo's horn loud and deep-toned blasts. +As he advanced through the forest he was preceded by twelve pioneers, +who carried long forked poles, with which they kept back the branches as +the party moved forward; at the same time they pointed out any dangers +in the road. + +The heat was intense. Into a lake at which they arrived the horses +rushed by hundreds, making the water as thick as pea-soup. As the +major's camel had not come up, he could not pitch his tent, and he was +compelled to lie down in the best shade he could find, and cover himself +completely with a cloth and a thick woollen bournous, to keep up a +little moisture, by excluding all external air. + +After several days' march they arrived near the capital of Mandara, +whose sultan sent out several of his chiefs to meet them. Near the town +of Delow the sultan himself appeared, surrounded by about five hundred +horsemen. Different parties of these troops charged up to the front of +Barca Gana's forces, and, wheeling suddenly round, galloped back again. +They were handsomely dressed in Soudan _tobes_ of different colours-- +dark blue and striped with yellow and red; bournouses of coarse scarlet +cloth, with large turbans of white or dark-coloured cotton. Their +horses were really beautiful--larger and more powerful than any seen in +Bornou. They managed them with great skill. + +A parley was now carried on. This sultan was an ally of the sheikh, but +the people who were to be attacked were his own subjects, though, as +they were pagans, that mattered nothing. + +Boo-Khaloum was, as usual, very sanguine of success. He said he should +make the sultan handsome presents, and that he was quite sure a Kerdie +or pagan town full of people would be given him to plunder. + +The Arabs eyed the Kerdie huts, now visible on the sides of the +mountains, with longing eyes, and, contrasting their own ragged +condition with the appearance of the Sultan of Mandara's people in their +rich _tobes_, observed to Book-Haloum that what they saw pleased them; +they would go no further; this would do. They trusted for victory to +their guns--though many were wretched weapons, and their powder was +bad--declaring that arrows were nothing, and ten thousand spears of no +importance. "We have guns! we have guns!" they shouted. They were soon +to find that they made a fearful mistake. + +The Sultan of Mandara had assisted the Sheikh Kanemy in driving out the +Felatahs, and, since then, supported by his powerful ally, had risen +greatly in power. The Felatahs, indeed, were his principal enemies in +the neighbourhood, and he was only waiting for such an expedition as now +joined him to attack them. + +The unfortunate Kerdies, who believed that they themselves were the +objects of the raid, beheld with dread the army of Barca Gana +bivouacking in the valley. The fires, which were visible in the +different nests of the hapless mountaineers, threw a glare on the bold +peaks and bluff promontories of granite rock by which they were +surrounded, and produced a picturesque and somewhat awful appearance. +Denham could distinguish many of them through his telescope, making off +into the mountains, while others came down bearing leopard-skins, honey, +and slaves as peace offerings, as also asses and goats, with which the +mountains abound. They, however, on this occasion, were not destined to +suffer. The people of Musgu, whose country it had been reported that +the Arabs were to plunder, sent two hundred slaves and other presents to +the sultan. As they entered and left the palace they threw themselves +on the ground, pouring sand on their heads, and uttering the most +piteous cries. + +The sultan all this time had not informed Boo-Khaloum what district he +would allow him to attack, but observed that the Kerdie nations, being +extremely tractable, were becoming Mussulmans without force. + +Major Denham had several interviews with this intelligent but bigoted +sultan, when he was greatly annoyed by the chief doctor of the court, or +_fighi_, Malem Chadily, who, because he was a Christian, endeavoured to +prejudice the mind of the sultan against him; indeed, the bigotry of +this court far surpassed that usually found among black tribes who have +become Mahommedans. The major had been drawing with a lead pencil, when +he was carried into the presence of the sultan. Malem Chadily on this +occasion pretended to treat him with great complaisance. + +The courtiers were much astonished at seeing the effect produced by the +pencils, and the ease with which their traces were effaced by +india-rubber. Several words were written by the doctor and others, +which were quickly rubbed out by the major. At last, the doctor wrote: +"_Bismillah arachmani arachemi_" ("In the name of the great and most +merciful God") in large Koran characters. He made so deep an impression +on the paper, that after using the india-rubber the words still appeared +legible, the _fighi_ remarking: "They are the words of God, delivered to +our prophet: I defy you to erase them." The sultan and all around him +gazed at the paper with intense satisfaction, exclaiming that a miracle +had been wrought, and Denham was well pleased to take his departure. +Even Barca Gana afterwards, when Denham visited him in his tent, +exclaimed, "Wonderful! wonderful!" And the _fighi_, or doctor, added, +"I will show you hundreds of miracles performed alone by the words of +the wonderful book." He then urged the major to turn Mahommedan. +"Paradise will then be opened to you," he remarked. "Without this, what +can save you from eternal fire. I shall then see you, while sitting in +the third heaven, in the midst of the flames, crying out to your friend +Barca Gana and myself, `Give me a drop of water!' but the gulf will be +between us and then it will be too late." Malem's tears flowed in +abundance during this harangue, and everybody appeared affected by his +eloquence. + +Poor Boo-Khaloum all this time was ill, from vexation more than +sickness. At last he had another interview with the sultan, but +returned much irritated, and told the major, as he passed, that they +should move in the evening, and to the question if everything went well, +he answered: "Please God." The Arabs, from whom he kept his destination +a secret, received him with cheers. Whom they were going against they +cared little, so long as there was a prospect of plunder, and the whole +camp became a busy scene of preparation. Two hours after noon the march +was commenced towards the mountains, which rose up in rugged +magnificence on either side. + +As the morning of the 28th of April broke, an interesting scene +presented itself. The Sultan of Mandara, mounted on a beautiful, +cream-coloured horse, and followed by a number of persons handsomely +dressed, was on one side. Barca Gana's people, who were on the other, +wore their red scarves or bournouses over their steel jackets. The +major took up a position at the general's right-hand, when the troops, +entering a thick wood in two columns, were told that at the end of it +they should find the enemy. Maraymy kept closer to the major's side, as +danger was approaching. + +As they were riding along, several leopards ran swiftly from them, +twisting their long tails in the air. A large one was seen, which +Maraymy remarked was so satiated with the blood of a negro it had just +before killed, that it would be easily destroyed. The Shooa soon +planted a spear, which passed through the animal's neck. It rolled +over, breaking the spear, and bounded off with the lower half in its +body. Another Shooa attacking it, the animal, with a howl, was in the +act of springing on the pursuer, when an Arab shot it through the head. + +On emerging from the wood, the large Felatah town of Durkulla was +perceived, and the Arabs were formed in front, headed by Boo-Khaloum. +They were flanked on each side by a large body of cavalry, who, as they +moved on, shouted the Arab war-cry. Denham thought he could perceive a +smile pass between Barca Gana and his chief, at poor Boo-Khaloum's +expense. + +Durkulla was quickly burned, and another small town near it. The few +inhabitants found in them, being infants or aged persons, unable to +escape, were put to death or thrown into the flames. A third town, +called Musfeia, built on a rising ground, and capable of being defended +against assailants ten times as numerous as the besiegers, was next +reached. A strong fence of palisades, well pointed, and fastened +together with thongs of raw hide, six feet in height, had been carried +from one hill to the other. Felatah bowmen were placed behind the +palisades and on the rising ground, with a _wady_ before them, while +their horses were all under cover of the hills. This was a strong +position. The Arabs, however, moved on with great gallantry, without +any support from the Bornou or Mandara troops, and, notwithstanding the +showers of arrows, some poisoned, which were poured on them from behind +the palisades, Boo-Khaloum carried them in about half an hour, and +dashed on, driving the Felatahs up the sides of the hills. The women +were everywhere seen supplying their protectors with fresh arrows, till +they retreated, still shooting on their pursuers. The women also rolled +down huge masses of rock, killing several Arabs. Barca Gana, with his +spearmen, at length advanced to the support of Boo-Khaloum, and pierced +through and through some fifty unfortunates, who were left wounded near +the stakes. The major rode by his side into the town, where a desperate +skirmish took place, but Barca Gana with his muscular arm threw eight +spears, some at a distance of thirty yards or more, which all told. Had +either the Mandara or the sheikh's troops now moved up boldly, they must +have carried the town and the heights above it. Instead of this, they +kept on the other side of the _wady_, out of reach of the arrows. The +Felatahs, seeing their backwardness, made so desperate an attack that +the Arabs gave way. The Felatah horse came on. Had not Barca Gana and +Boo-Khaloum, with his few mounted Arabs, given them a very spirited +check, not one of their band would have lived to see the following day. +As it was, Barca Gana had three horses hit under him, two of which died +almost immediately, while poor Boo-Khaloum and his horse were both +wounded. The major's horse was also wounded in the neck, shoulder, and +hind leg, and an arrow struck him in the face, merely drawing blood as +it passed. He had two sticking in his bournous. The Arabs suffered +terribly: most of them had two or three wounds; one dropped with five +arrows sticking in his head, and two of Boo-Khaloum's slaves were killed +near him. + +No sooner did the Mandara and Bornou troops see the defeat of the Arabs +than they, one and all, took to flight in the most dastardly manner and +the greatest confusion. The sultan led the way, having been prepared to +take advantage of whatever plunder the success of the Arabs might throw +into his hands; but no less determined to leave the field the moment the +fortune of the day appeared to be against them. + +Major Denham had reason to regret his folly in exposing himself, badly +prepared as he was for accident. By flight only could he save himself. +The whole army, which had now become a flying mass, plunged in the +greatest disorder into the wood which had lately been left. + +He had got to the westward of Barca Gana in the confusion, when he saw +upwards of a hundred of the Bornou troops speared by the Felatahs, and +was following the steps of one of the Mandara officers, when the cries +behind, of the Felatah horse pursuing, made both quicken their pace. +His wounded horse at this juncture stumbled and fell. Almost before he +was on his legs the Felatahs were upon him. He had, however, kept hold +of the bridle, and, seizing a pistol from the holster, presented it at +two of the savages who were pressing him with their spears. They +instantly went off; but another, who came on more boldly just as he was +endeavouring to mount, received the contents in his shoulder, and he was +enabled to place his foot in the stirrup. Remounting, he again +retreated, but had not proceeded many hundred yards when his horse once +more came down, with such violence as to throw him against a tree at a +considerable distance. At this juncture, alarmed by the horses behind +him, the animal got up and escaped, leaving the major on foot and +unarmed. + +The Mandara officer and his followers were butchered and stripped within +a few yards of him. Their cries were dreadful. His hopes of life were +too faint to deserve the name. He was almost instantly surrounded, and +speedily stripped, his pursuers making several thrusts at him with their +spears, wounding his hands severely, and his body slightly. In the +first instance they had been prevented from murdering him by the fear of +injuring the value of his clothes, which appeared to them a rich booty. +His shirt was now torn off his back. When his plunderers began to +quarrel for the spoil, the idea of escape came across his mind. +Creeping under the belly of the horse nearest him, he started as fast as +his legs would carry him, to the thickest part of the wood. Two of the +Felatahs followed. He ran in the direction the stragglers of his own +party had taken. His pursuers gained on him, for the prickly underwood +tore his flesh and impeded his progress. Just then he saw a mountain +stream gliding along at the bottom of a deep ravine. His strength had +almost failed him, when, seizing the long branches of a tree overhanging +the water, he let himself down into it. What was his horror to observe +a large liffa, the most venomous of serpents, rise from its coil as if +in the very act of striking! His senses left him, the branch slipped +from his hand, and he tumbled headlong into the water. The shock, +however, revived him, and with three strokes of his arms he reached the +opposite bank, which with great difficulty he crawled up. He, at +length, felt that he was safe from his pursuers. Still, the forlorn +situation in which he was placed, without even a rag to cover his body, +almost overwhelmed him. Yet, fully alive to the danger to which he was +exposed, he had began to plan how he could best rest on the top of a +tamarind tree, in order to escape from panthers, when the idea of +liffas, almost as numerous, excited a shudder of despair. While trying +to make his way through the woods, he observed two horsemen between the +trees, and, still further to the east, with feelings of gratitude, he +recognised Barca Gana and Boo-Khaloum, with about six Arabs. Although +they were pressed closely by a party of Felatahs, the guns and pistols +of the Arabs kept the latter in check. His shouts were drowned by the +cries of those who were falling under the Felatahs' spears and the +cheers of the Arabs rallying; but, happily, Maraymy distinguished him at +a distance. Riding up, the faithful black assisted the major to mount +behind him, and, while the arrows whistled over their heads, they +galloped off to the rear as fast as the black's wounded horse could +carry them. After they had gone a mile or two, Boo-Khaloum rode up and +desired one of the Arabs to cover the major with a houmous. This was +the last act of Denham's unfortunate friend. Directly afterwards +Maraymy exclaimed: "Look, Boo-Khaloum is dead!" The major turned his +head, and saw the caravan leader drop from his horse into the arms of a +favourite Arab. A poisoned arrow in his wounded foot had proved fatal. +The Arabs believed he had only swooned; but there was no water to revive +him, and before it could be obtained he was past the reach of +stimulants. At the same time, Barca Gana offered the major a horse; but +Maraymy exclaimed: "Do not mount him; he will die!" He therefore +remained with the black. Two Arabs, however, mounted the animal, and in +less than an hour he fell to rise no more; and, before they could +recover themselves, both the Arabs were butchered by the Felatahs. + +At last a stream was reached. The horses, with the blood gushing from +their noses, rushed into the water, and the major, letting himself down, +knelt amongst them, and seemed to imbibe new life from the copious +draughts of the muddy beverage he swallowed. He then lost all +consciousness; but Maraymy told him that he had staggered across the +stream and fallen down at the foot of a tree. Here a quarter of an +hour's halt was made, to place Boo-Khaloum's body on a horse and to +collect stragglers, during which Maraymy had asked Barca Gana for +another horse, in order to carry the major on, when the chief, irritated +by his defeat, as well as by having had his horse refused, by which +means he said it had come by its death, replied: "Then leave him behind. +By the head of the Prophet! believers enough have breathed their last +to-day! What is there extraordinary in a Christian's death?" His old +antagonist, Malem Chadily, replied: "No; God has preserved him, let us +not forsake him." Maraymy returned to the tree, awoke the major, and, +again mounting, they moved on as before, though with less speed. + +The effect produced on the horses wounded by arrows was extraordinary; +immediately after drinking they dropped and instantly died, the blood +gushing from their mouths, noses, and ears. More than thirty horses +were lost at this spot from the effects of the poison. + +After riding forty-five miles, it was past midnight before they halted +in the territories of the Sultan of Mandara, the major thoroughly +worn-out. The bournous thrown over him by the Arab teemed with vermin, +and it was evening the next day before he could get a shirt, when a man +gave him one, on the promise of getting a new one at Kouka. Maraymy all +the time tended him with the greatest care while he slept for a whole +night and day under a tree. + +Denham here met with an unexpected act of kindness from Mai Meegamy, a +dethroned sultan, now subject to the sheikh. Taking him by the hand, +the sultan led him into his own leathern tent, and, disrobing himself of +his trousers, insisted that the major should put them on. No act of +charity could exceed this. Denham was exceedingly touched by it, but +declined the offer. The ex-sultan, however, supposing that he did so +under the belief that he had offered the only pair he possessed, seemed +much hurt, and immediately called in a slave, whom he stripped of those +necessary appendages of a man's dress, which he put on himself, +insisting that Denham should take those he had first offered him. +Meegamy was his great friend from that moment, though he had scarcely +spoken to him before he had quitted the sheikh's dominions. + +In this unfortunate expedition, besides their chief, forty-five of the +Arabs were killed, nearly all were wounded, and they lost everything +they possessed, Major Denham having also lost his mule and all his +property. + +The wounds of many of the people were very severe, and several died soon +afterwards, their bodies, as well as poor Boo-Khaloum's, becoming +instantly swollen and black. Sometimes, immediately after death, blood +issued from the nose and mouth, which the Bornou people asserted was in +consequence of the arrows having been poisoned. + +The surviving Arabs, who had now lost all their arrogance, entreated +Barca Gana to supply them with corn to save them from starving, for the +Sultan of Mandara refused to supply them with food, and even kept +Boo-Khaloum's horse-trappings and clothes. + +In six days the expedition arrived at Kouka. The sheikh was excessively +annoyed at the defeat; but laid the blame, not without justice, on the +Mandara troops, who had evidently behaved treacherously to their allies. + + + +CHAPTER SIX. + +TRAVELS OF DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON, CONTINUED. + +MAJOR DENHAM AND DR. OUDNEY VISIT OLD BIRNIE--ACCOMPANY THE SHEIKH ON AN +EXPEDITION AGAINST THE MUNGA--REVIEW OF TROOPS--SUBMISSION OF REBELS-- +BARCA GANA DISGRACED--RETURN--ARRIVAL OF LIEUTENANT TOOLE--EXPEDITION TO +THE SHARY--PEST OF FLIES--WELL RECEIVED BY THE SULTAN OF BEGHARRNI-- +DEATH OF LIEUTENANT TOOLE--RETURNS TO KOUKA--ARRIVAL OF MR. TYRHWIT-- +EXPEDITION AGAINST REBELS ON SHORES OF LAKE CHAD--BARCA GANA AGAIN +DEFEATED AND WOUNDED--THE SHEIKH'S SEVERE LAWS AGAINST IMMORALITY. + +Soon after the return of the unfortunate expedition to Mandara, the +sheikh set out on another against a people to the west, called the +Munga, who had never hitherto acknowledged his supremacy, and refused to +pay tribute. Another complaint against them was, as he explained it, +"that they were _kaffiring_--not saying their prayers--the dogs." This +fault is generally laid to the charge of any nation against whom true +Mahommedans wage war, as it gives them the power of making slaves of the +heathens. By the laws of Mahomet, one believer must not bind another. + +Major Denham and Dr Oudney were anxious to visit Birnie, the old +capital of Bornou, and the sheikh left one of his chief slaves, Omar +Gana, to act as their guide. Thence they were to proceed to Kabshary, +there to await his arrival. + +They set out with five camels and four servants, making two marches each +day, from ten to fourteen miles, morning and evening. + +The country round Kouka is uninteresting and flat, thickly covered with +acacias. + +The ruins of old Birnie, which they visited, convinced them of the power +of its former sultan. The city, though now in ruins, covered a space of +five or six square miles. The walls, in many places standing, consisted +of large masses of red brickwork, three or four feet in thickness, and +six to eight in height. Besides destroying the capital, the Felatahs +had razed to the ground upwards of thirty large towns during their +inroads. + +The whole country which they passed after proceeding some way had become +a complete desert, having been abandoned since the Felatahs commenced +their inroads, and wild animals of all descriptions abounded in great +numbers. + +They heard that Kabshary had been attacked by the Munga people and +burned; and news came that the Munga horse were reconnoitring all round +them, and had murdered some men proceeding to join the sheikh. + +One of the means the people had taken to defend themselves against the +invaders, had been to dig deep holes, at the bottom of which +sharp-pointed stakes were fixed, the pits being then carefully covered +over with branches and grass, so as completely to conceal them. Similar +pitfalls are used in many parts of Africa for entrapping the giraffe and +other wild animals. + +The major's servant, Columbus, and his mule not making their appearance, +he was searching for him, when he found that the animal had fallen into +one of these pits, the black having by a violent exertion of strength +saved himself. The poor mule was found sticking on four stakes, with +her knees dreadfully torn by struggling. She was, however, got out +alive. + +Escaping from various dangers, they joined the sheikh on the banks of a +large piece of water called Dummasak. Hearing that a caravan had +arrived at Kouka from Fezzan, they were anxious to return to the +capital. They sent word to the sheikh, but their communication was not +delivered, and, before they could see him, he and his troops had moved +off. They were, however, on their way to Kouka, when Omar Gana overtook +them, entreating them to return to the sheikh, who, angry at their +having gone, had struck him from his horse, and directed him to bring +them to the army without delay. They had nothing to do but to obey. + +Many of the spots they passed presented much picturesque beauty. In +several places were groups of naked warriors resting under the trees on +the borders of the lake, with their shields on their arms, while +hundreds of others were in the water, spearing fish, which were cooked +by their companions on shore. The margin was crowded with horses, +drinking or feeding, and men bathing, while, in the centre, hippopotami +were constantly throwing up their black muzzles, spouting water. + +The march of the Bornou army now commenced; but little order was +preserved before coming near the enemy, everyone appearing to know that +at a certain point an assembly was to take place. The sheikh took the +lead, and close after him came the Sultan of Bornou; who always attended +him on these occasions, though he never fought. The sheikh was preceded +by five flags with extracts of the Koran on them, and attended by about +a hundred of his chiefs and favourite slaves. A negro boy carried his +shield, a jacket of mail, and his steel skull-cap, and his arms; +another, mounted on a swift _mahary_, and fantastically dressed with a +straw hat and ostrich feathers, carried his timbrel, or drum, which it +is the greatest misfortune to lose in action. In the rear followed the +harem; but on such occasions the sheikh takes but three wives, who are +mounted astride on trained horses, each led by a slave boy, their heads +and figures completely enveloped in brown silk bournouses, with an +attendant on either side. The sultan has five times as many attendants +as his general, and his harem is three times as numerous. + +On reaching Kabshary, the sheikh reviewed his favourite forces, the +Kanemboo spearmen, nine thousand strong. With the exception of a goat +or sheep's skin, with the hair outwards, round their middles, and a few +strips of cloth on their heads, they were nearly naked. Their arms were +spear and shield, with a dagger on the left arm, reversed. The shield +is made of a peculiarly light wood, weighing only a few pounds. Their +leaders were mounted and distinguished merely by a _tobe_ of dark blue, +and a turban of the same colour. + +The sheikh's attendants were magnificently dressed, but his own costume +was neat and simple, consisting only of two white figured muslin +_tobes_, with a bournous, and a Cashmere shawl for a turban: over all +hung the English sword which had been sent him. On the signal being +made for his troops to advance, they uttered a fearful shriek, or yell, +and advanced by troops of eight hundred to a thousand each. After +striking their spears against their shields for some seconds, which had +an extremely grand effect, they filed off on either side, again forming +and awaiting their companions, who succeeded them in the same way. + +There appeared to be a great deal of affection between these troops and +the sheikh. He spurred his horse onwards into the midst of some of the +troops as they came up, and spoke to them, while the men crowded round +him, kissing his feet and stirrups. It was a most pleasing sight, and +he seemed to feel how much his present elevation was owing to their +exertions; while they displayed a devotion and attachment denoting the +greatest confidence. The major assured him that, with these troops, he +need fear but little the attempts of the Fezzaners on his territories. + +The next day a number of captives--women and children--were brought in: +one poor woman accompanied by four children--two in her arms and two on +the horse of the father who had been stabbed for defending those he +loved. They were uttering the most piteous cries. The sheikh, after +looking at them, desired that they might all be released, saying: "God +forbid that I should make slaves of the wives and children of any +Mussalman! Go back: tell the wicked and powerful chiefs who urged your +husbands to rebel and to _kafir_, that I shall be quickly with them, and +will punish them instead of the innocent!" + +This message had its effect; for, during the following day, many +hundreds of the Munga people came in, bowing to the ground, and throwing +sand upon their heads in token of submission. Several towns also sent +their chiefs and submitted in this manner, bringing peace offerings, +when the sheikh swore solemnly not to molest them further. Their +principal leader, Malem Fanaamy, fearing to lose his head, would not +come; but offered to pay two thousand slaves, a thousand bullocks, and +three hundred horses as the price of peace. The offer was refused; and, +compelled by his people, Malem Fanaamy made his appearance, poorly +dressed, with an uncovered head. The sheikh received his submission; +and, when he really expected to hear the order for his throat to be cut, +he was clothed with eight handsome _tobes_, and his head made as big as +six, with turbans from Egypt. This matter being settled, the army +returned to the capital. + +Major Denham soon after this visited a caravan which had come from +Soudan, on its way to Fezzan. The merchants had nearly a hundred +slaves, the greater part female, mostly very young--those from Nyffe of +a deep copper colour, and beautifully formed; the males were also young, +and linked together in couples by iron rings round their legs, yet they +laughed and seemed in good condition. It is a common practice with the +merchants to induce one slave to persuade his companions that on +arriving at Tripoli they will be free and clothed in red--a colour of +which negroes are passionately fond. By these promises they are induced +to submit quietly until they are too far from their homes to render +escape possible. + +An extraordinary event occurred here, showing the despotic power of the +sheikh. Barca Gana, his general, a governor of six large districts, had +offended the sheikh, who sent for him, had him stripped in his presence, +and a leathern girdle put round his loins, and, after reproaching him +with his ingratitude, ordered that he should be forthwith sold to the +Tibboo merchants, for he was still a slave. The other chiefs, however, +falling on their knees, petitioned that their favourite general might be +forgiven. The culprit at that moment appeared to take his leave. The +sheikh, on this, threw himself back on his carpet, wept like a child, +and suffered Barca Gana to embrace his knees, and, calling them all his +sons, pardoned his penitent slave. + +Poor Dr Oudney had never risen since his return from Munga, and +Clapperton and Hillman were also dangerously ill. + +News now arrived that a caravan was on its way from the north. This was +gratifying intelligence, as the expedition hoped to obtain letters and +remittances by it. + +Hillman had manufactured some carriages for two brass guns, which had +been sent to the sheikh from Tripoli. The sheikh was delighted when the +major, the only person capable of attending to them, fired them off. He +now thought himself able to attack all who might become hostile to him. + +On the 14th of December Mr Clapperton and Dr Oudney, having somewhat +recovered, set out with a large _kafila_, bound to Kano in Soudan. Dr +Oudney, however, was in a very unfit state to travel, being almost in +the last stage of consumption. A few days after they had gone, a +_kafila_ arrived from the north, and with it came a young ensign of the +80th Regiment, Mr Toole, who had taken the place of Mr Tyrwhit, +detained on account of sickness. Major Denham was much pleased with his +appearance and manners--his countenance, indeed, being an irresistible +letter of introduction. He had made the long journey from Tripoli to +Bornou in three months and fourteen days, arriving with only the loss of +five camels. Denham's spirits revived with the society of so pleasant a +friend, and he determined to take the first opportunity of visiting the +Shary and Loggun. The sheikh willingly gave them permission, appointing +a handsome negro, Belial, to act as their guide and manager. He was +altogether a superior person, and was attended by six slaves. These, +with themselves and personal attendants, formed their party. + +Their journey was commenced on the 23rd of January, 1824. After leaving +Angornou, they proceeded east, along the borders of the lake, to Angala, +where resided Miram, the divorced wife of the sheikh, El Kanemy, in a +fine house--her establishment exceeding sixty persons. She was a very +handsome, beautifully-formed negress about thirty-five, and had much of +the softness of manner so extremely prepossessing in the sheikh. She +received her visitors seated on an earthen throne covered with a Turkey +carpet, and surrounded by twenty of her favourite slaves, all dressed +alike in fine white shirts which reached to their feet; their necks, +ears, and noses thickly ornamented with coral. A negro dwarf, measuring +scarcely three feet, the keeper of her keys, sat before her, +richly-dressed in Soudan _tobes_. + +The Shary was reached on the 23rd. The travellers were surprised at the +magnitude of the stream, which appeared to be fully half a mile in +width, running at the rate of two or three miles an hour towards the +Chad. + +Remaining some days at the town of Showy on the banks of the river, they +embarked, accompanied by the _kaide_, or governor, and eight canoes +carrying ten slaves each. After a voyage of nearly eight hours, they +reached a spot thirty-five miles from Showy. The scenery was highly +interesting: one noble reach succeeded another, alternately varying +their courses; the banks thickly scattered with trees, rich in foliage, +hung over with creepers bearing variously-coloured and aromatic +blossoms. Several crocodiles were seen, which rolled into the stream +and disappeared as they approached. + +After proceeding further down the river, they returned to Showy, and +then made another excursion up the stream. + +With much grief Denham perceived symptoms of illness in his companion, +who, however, complained but little. While he was suffering they +reached a place which is so infested by flies and bees that the +inhabitants cannot move out of their houses during the day. + +Their houses are literally formed one cell within another, five or six +in number, in order to prevent the ingress of the insects. One of their +party, who went out, returned with his eyes and head in such a state +that he was ill for three days. + +Hence they moved on to Zarmawha, an independent sultan, who had twice +been in rebellion against the sheikh. Belial was received with scant +courtesy; but the sultan was very civil to the white men, to whom he +sent a variety of dishes of food, and was highly pleased with the +presents he received, observing that the English were a race of sultans. + +Mr Toole's sufferings increased, though they managed to reach Loggun, +on the banks of the Shary. As they approached, a person, apparently of +consequence, advanced towards them, bending nearly double and joining +his hands, followed by his slaves, stooping still lower than himself. +He explained that he was deputed by the sultan to welcome the white men, +and, preceding their party, conducted them to a habitation which had +been prepared for them, consisting of four separate huts, well-built +within an outer wall, with a large entrance-hall for their servants. + +Next morning Denham was sent for to appear before the sultan, when he +was preceded through the streets by ten immense negroes of high birth, +with grey beards, bare heads, and carrying large clubs. After passing +through several dark rooms, he was conducted to a large square court, +where some hundred persons were assembled, seated on the ground. In the +middle was a vacant space to which he was led, and desired to sit down. +Two slaves in striped cotton _tabes_, who were fanning the air through a +lattice work of cane, pointed out the retirement of the sultan. This +shade was removed, and something alive was discovered on a carpet, +wrapped up in silk _tobes_, with the head enveloped in shawls, and +nothing but the eyes visible. The whole court prostrated themselves and +poured sand on their heads, while eight _frum-frums_ and as many horns +blew a loud and very harsh-sounding salute. + +This great man, however, was not above doing a stroke of business, for, +after enquiring whether the major wished to buy female slaves, he +observed: "If you do, go no further; I have some hundreds, and will sell +them to you as cheap as anyone." + +Though a much handsomer race than the Bornouese, the Loggun people are +thieves, and, judging from their chiefs, great rascals. It appeared +that there were two sultans, father and son, both of whom applied to the +major for poison that would not lie, to be used against each other, the +younger one offering him three female slaves as a bribe. + +The province of which Loggun is the capital, is called Begharmi. The +people are in many respects similar to the Bornouese, with whom they are +constantly at war. They possess a strong force of cavalry, clothed in +suits of thick quilted armour, with helmets of the same material, easily +penetrated however by bullets, though impervious to arrows. Their +horses are also covered in the manner of their riders. So unwieldy are +these warriors, that they require to be assisted when mounting their +steeds. Their weapons are long, double-headed spears, something like +pitchforks with flattened prongs. + +Shortly after this a large body of them, five thousand strong, with two +hundred chiefs were defeated by the Bornouese, when all the chiefs and a +considerable number of the men were slain. + +The Loggunese, however, have made considerable progress in the arts of +peace. The clothes woven by them are superior to those of Bornou, being +beautifully glazed, and finely dyed with indigo; and they make use even +of a current coin of iron, somewhat in the form of a horse-shoe, which +none of the neighbouring nations possess. Their country abounds in +grain and cattle, and is diversified with forests of acacias and other +beautiful trees. + +As they proceeded on their journey, poor Mr Toole grew worse. + +Escaping several dangers, they returned to Angala, where at first the +major hoped his poor friend might recover, but on the 26th of February a +cold shiver seized him, and just before noon he expired, completely +worn-out and exhausted. He had scarcely completed his 22nd year, and +was in every sense an amiable and promising young officer. + +On Denham's return to Kouka, he found the sheikh with a large army +collected to attack the Begharmis, who were scouring the country. As, +however, he was suffering from fever, he went on to Kouka, where he +heard of the death of Dr Oudney at a place called Murmur. The sheikh's +expedition was successful, and the people were highly delighted with the +plunder which had been obtained. + +Sickness, however, was at work in the city. Omar, an Arab, who had +arrived with Mr Toole, died, and Columbus caught the fever, and had to +take to his bed. The major, however, was cheered by the arrival of Mr +Tyrhwit, who had been sent out by the British Government to strengthen +the party. He brought a present of two swords, two brace of pistols, a +dagger, and two gold watches, which were received by El Kanemy with +great delight. On hearing that some rockets had also been forwarded, he +exclaimed: "What besides all these riches! There are no friends like +these; they are all true; and I see by the book that, if the prophet had +lived only a short time longer, they would have become Moslem." + +On the termination of the Rhamadan, June 1st, the sheikh again took the +field, proceeding eastward along the shores of the Chad, against a +powerful Biddomah chief, called Amanook, who held a strong position on +some islands near the shores of the lake. The object of the expedition +had been kept a great secret till the neighbourhood of the country to be +attacked was reached. The army marched through the country of the +Shooas, a people who live entirely in tents of leather and huts of +rushes, changing but from necessity, on the approach of an enemy or want +of pasturage for their numerous flocks. They seldom fight, except in +their own defence. Their principal food is the milk of camels, in which +they are rich, and also that of cows and sheep; often they take no other +nourishment for months together. They have the greatest contempt for +and hatred of the negro nations, and yet are always tributary either to +one black sultan or another. There is no example of their ever having +peopled a town or established themselves in a permanent home. + +The sheikh having halted the main body of his army, Barca Gana advanced +with a thousand men, being joined also by four hundred Dugganahs. They +found the chief, Amanook, posted, with all his cattle and people, on a +narrow pass between two lakes, having in front of him a lake which was +neither deep nor wide, but full of holes, with a deceitful, muddy +bottom. + +The sheikh's troops had long been without food, and the sight of the +bleating flocks and lowing herds was too much for them. Barca Gana, +however, seeing the strength of the enemy's position, wished to halt, +and to send over spearmen on foot, with shields, who would lead the +attack. The younger chiefs however exclaimed: "What! be so near them as +this, and not eat them? No, let us on: this night their flocks and +women will be ours!" In this cry the Shooas also joined. The general +yielded, and the attack commenced. The Arabs led the way with the +Dugganahs. On arriving in the middle of the lake the horses sunk up to +their saddle-bows; most of them were out of their depth, and others +floundering in the mud; the ammunition of the riders became wet, their +guns useless. As they neared the shore, Amanook's men hurled at them +with unerring aim a volley of their light spears, charging with their +strongest and best horses, trained and accustomed to the water, while at +the same time another body, having crossed the lake higher up, came by +the narrow pass and cut off the retreat of all those who had advanced +into the lake. The sheikh's people now fell thickly. Barca Gana, +although attacking against his own judgment, was among the foremost, and +received a severe spear-wound in his back, which pierced through four +_tobes_ and his iron chain armour, while attacked by five chiefs, who +seemed determined on finishing him. One of these he thrust through with +his long spear, and his own people coming to his rescue with a fresh +horse, he was saved, though thirty of his followers were either killed +or captured by Amanook's people. + +It was expected that Amanook would attack the camp, but, instead of so +doing, he sent word that he would treat with the sheikh, and that he +wished for peace. If peace was not to be obtained, however, he swore by +the Prophet that he would turn fish, and fly to the centre of the water; +and, should even the sheikh himself come, he would bring the _wady_ +against him. + +The major and his companions visited the general, whom they found +suffering much from his wound, but Denham acting as surgeon, it in a +short time healed. Barca Gana then strongly advised him to return to +Kouka, showing that his hopes of getting to the east would certainly be +disappointed. + +A little sheikh, who had arrived from Fezzan, endeavoured to poison the +mind of El Kanemy against the English, telling him that they had +conquered India and probably fully intended to attack Bornou. + +On the major's return to Kouka he found that Captain Clapperton had just +returned from Soudan. On going to the hut where he was lodged, Denham +did not know his friend as he lay extended on the floor, so great was +the alteration in him; and he was about to leave the place, when +Clapperton called out his name. Notwithstanding this, so great were +Clapperton's spirits, that he spoke of returning to Soudan after the +rains. He had performed a very interesting journey, the particulars of +which will shortly be narrated. + +The sheikh had just before made himself very unpopular with the female +portion of his subjects, having, in consequence of his determination to +improve the morality of his people, issued an order such as the most +savage of despots have never ventured to enact. One morning the gates +of the city were kept closed at daylight, and sixty women who had a bad +reputation were brought before him. Five were sentenced to be hanged in +the public market, and four flogged. Two of the latter expired under +the lash, while the former were dragged, with their heads shaved, +through the market, with ropes round their necks, and were then +strangled and thrown by twos into a hole previously prepared. + +The effect on the people was such that a hundred families quitted Kouka +to take up their abode in other towns, where this rigour did not exist. + + + +CHAPTER SEVEN. + +CLAPPERTON'S JOURNEY TO SOUDAN. + +EXPEDITION OF CLAPPERTON AND OUDNEY TO SOUDAN--BEAUTY OF THE WOMEN-- +CRUELTY OF THE ARABS--DR. OUDNEY PRESCRIBES FOR THE SICK--REACH +KATAGUM--SLAVES OFFERED AS PRESENTS--DEATH OF DR. OUDNEY--CLAPPERTON +ARRIVES AT KANO--CITY DESCRIBED--HAUSSA BOXERS--SACKATOO REACHED-- +RECEPTION BY SULTAN BELLO--GREAT INTELLIGENCE OF THE SULTAN--WONDER AT +ENGLISH CUSTOMS--DESIRES THAT A CONSUL AND DOCTOR MAY BE SENT TO HIM-- +CLAPPERTON LEAVES SACKATOO--SUFFERINGS FROM THIRST--DANGEROUS JOURNEY-- +RETURNS TO KOUKA--VISIT TO LAKE CHAD--JOURNEY ACROSS THE DESERT TO +TRIPOLI. + +It will be remembered that Captain Clapperton, accompanied by Dr +Oudney, set out from Kouka on the 14th of December, 1823, for the +purpose of exploring Soudan. Their party consisted of Jacob, a Jew, two +servants, and three men of Fezzan. They had three saddle-horses and +four sumpter mules. They travelled in company with a _kafila_ in which +were twenty-seven Arab merchants and about fifty natives of Bornou. +Most of the Arabs rode on horseback, some having, besides, a led horse, +but all the rest of the party were on foot. + +Doctor Oudney was of great service to the _hadji_, who had injured his +hand by the bursting of a gun. He invariably pitched his tent close to +that of the doctor, who regularly dressed it for him. + +Passing old Birnie, they had after two days to pass through an +undulating country, frequently wading across hollows filled with water. +Having to cross a river, the _hadji_ had provided himself with a large +raft, on which his own and his friends' baggage was carried across; but +the Arabs, who passed lower down the river, were dreadfully frightened. +The greatest difficulty was with the camels and female slaves, the women +screaming and squalling loudly. The camels were towed across, one man +swimming before with a halter in his teeth, while another kept beating +the animal behind with a stick, while it every now and then attempted to +turn back, or bobbed its head under water. + +The next day they were exposed to another danger. The grass having been +set on fire, the flames advanced rapidly, and must have put them all to +flight, had they not sought shelter within the ruined walls of old +Birnie. + +They passed through numerous towns and villages, the people belonging to +a tribe of Shooa Arabs. The women were really beautiful. They wore +their hair in a form which at a distance might be mistaken for a helmet, +a large braid at the crown having some resemblance to a crest. + +They had now to pass through a country inhabited by Bedites, who had not +embraced Islamism. Protected by the natural fastnesses of their +country, they were held in dread and abhorrence by all the faithful. +The road lay over very elevated ground, and so low was the temperature +in the morning, that the water in their shallow vessels was crusted with +thin flakes of ice, and the water-skins themselves were frozen as hard +as a board. The horses and camels stood shivering with cold. Dr +Oudney also became extremely ill, probably from the low temperature. + +They had just entered the country of the Bedites when two men were met, +who were immediately seized by the Arabs; one was a Shooa and the other +a negro. One of the Bornouese had inflicted a dreadful cut under the +left ear of the negro, and, notwithstanding his wound, they led the poor +fellow by a rope fastened round his neck. Clapperton could not refrain +from beating the merciless Bornouese and at the same time threatening to +lodge the contents of his gun in his head if he repeated his cruelties. +He took occasion to impress on the minds of the Arabs how unworthy it +was of brave men to behave so cruelly to their prisoners, and he +thoroughly shamed them into good behaviour. + +Having crossed the river You, they reached the city of Katagum, when a +servant of the governor met them with a present, and, accompanied by a +band of horsemen with drummers drumming and two bards singing the +praises of their master, they entered the city. Here they remained, +while the caravan pursued its course. + +This was the most eastern of the Felatah towns. They were here visited +by a Tripolitan merchant who was very rich, possessing no less than five +hundred slaves and a vast number of horses. + +Through all the towns and villages which they had passed, the sick were +brought to be cured, while numbers came for remedies against all sorts +of fancied diseases. + +The governor received them in the most simple way. They found him +seated under a rude canopy, on a low bank of earth, with three old men +attending on him. They shook hands and then sat down on the floor. He +was highly pleased with the presents he received, and offered anything +they might wish for, especially slaves. Clapperton told them that a +slave was unknown in England, and that the moment one set foot on +British ground he was instantly free. When he heard that their only +object was to see the world, he told them that they must go to the +Sultan Bello, who was a learned man and would, be glad to meet people +who had seen so much. + +A lucky omen, as the natives supposed it, occurred. Among the presents +offered by the king was ajar of honey; this one of the servants upset +without breaking the pot. Had it been broken, the omen would have been +unfortunate; as it was, the governor was highly pleased, and ordered the +poor to be called in to lick up the honey. They rushed in, squabbling +among themselves. One old man, having a long beard, came off with a +double allowance, for he let it sweep up the honey and then sucked it +clean. + +Dr Oudney soon after this became too weak to sit his horse, but still +he begged to be carried on. They therefore travelled forward to the +town of Murmur. Here they were compelled to stop, though the doctor the +next morning, after drinking a cup of coffee, with the assistance of his +companions dressed. It was soon evident that he would be unable to +proceed. He was carried back into his tent, where in a short time +Captain Clapperton, with unspeakable grief, witnessed his death without +a struggle or a groan. He was but thirty-two years of age. His friend +had a deep grave dug, and enclosed it with a wall of clay to keep off +the beasts of prey. He had also two sheep killed and distributed among +the poor. + +Ill as Captain Clapperton himself was, and now left alone among strange +people, the loss to him was severe and afflicting. Still, his ardent +spirit triumphing over sorrow and trouble, he pursued his journey, and +on the 20th of January he entered Kano, the great emporium of the +kingdom of Haussa. He dressed himself in his naval uniform to make an +impression on the inhabitants of the city, which, from the description +of the Arabs, he expected to see of surprising grandeur. His +disappointment was therefore great, when he traversed the place. He +found the houses nearly a quarter of a mile from the walls, and in many +parts scattered into detached groups between large stagnant pools of +water. Not an individual turned his head round to gaze at him, all +being intent on their own business. The market-place was bordered to +the east and west by an extensive swamp, covered with weeds and water +and frequented by wild ducks, cranes, and vultures. The house which had +been provided for him was close to a morass, the pestilential +exhalations of which were increased by the sewers of the houses all +opening into the street. + +Fatigued and sick, he lay down on a mat which the owner had spread for +him. His mansion had six chambers above, extremely dark, and five rooms +below, with a dismal-looking entrance, a back court, draw-well, and +other conveniences. Little holes, or windows, admitted a glimmering +light into the apartments. Nevertheless, this was thought a handsome +mansion. + +All the Arab merchants, not prevented by sickness, who had travelled +with him from Kouka, came to see him, looking more like ghosts than men, +as almost all strangers at the time were suffering from intermittent +fever. + +The governor gave him a private audience, and seemed highly pleased with +the presents he received, promising to forward them on to his master, +the Sultan Bello, at Sackatoo, after his own return from an expedition +which would occupy him fifteen days. + +During the interval Captain Clapperton suffered greatly from fever. + +The newspapers which he here received from Major Denham apprised him of +Belzoni's attempt to penetrate to Timbuctoo by the way of Fez. + +On returning from a ride he met two large bodies of troops, who were to +accompany the governor, each consisting of five hundred horse and foot. +The latter were armed with bows and arrows, the cavalry with shields, +swords, and spears, and sumptuously accoutred. The swords were broad, +straight, and long, and were indeed the very blades formerly wielded by +the knights of Malta, having been sent from that island to Tripoli, +where they were exchanged for bullocks and carried across the desert to +Bornou, thence to Haussa, and, at last, re-mounted at Kano for the use +of the inhabitants of almost all central Africa. The shields were +covered with hides of animals, and were generally round; but there were +some of an oval shape, in the centre of which was scored a perfect +Maltese cross. He observed crosses of other forms cut in the doors of +the houses. + +Several camels, loaded with quilted cotton armour, both for men and +horses, were in attendance. This armour was arrow proof; but it is +seldom worn, except in actual combat. The saddles had high peaks before +and behind, and the stirrup-irons were in the shape of a fire-shovel. + +A nephew of the Sultan Bello paid him a visit the next morning and told +him, after taking a cup of tea, which he liked very much, that he had +hitherto looked upon a Christian as little better than a monster, though +he now confessed that he liked the traveller. Another nephew came also, +a most intelligent young man, who read and spoke Arabic with fluency, +and was very anxious to see everything, and to hear all about England. + +He found the market well supplied with every necessary and luxury in +request among the people of the interior. The sheikh, who superintended +it, however, fixed the prices of all wares, for which he was entitled to +a commission; and, after every bargain, the seller returned to the buyer +a stated part of the price by way of a blessing, or a "luck-penny" as it +would be called in England. Cowries were here used as coins, though +somewhat cumbersome, as twenty were worth only a halfpenny; thus, in +paying a pound sterling, nine thousand six hundred shells had to be +counted out. As he remarks: "The great advantage of the use of the +cowrie is that forgery is excluded, as it cannot possibly be imitated." +The natives show also great dexterity in counting out even the largest +sums. + +The butchers were numerous, and understood showing off animals to the +best advantage. Sometimes they even stuck a little sheep's wool on a +leg of goat's flesh, to make it pass for mutton. When a fat bull was +brought to the market to be killed, its horns were dyed red with +_henna_, the drummers attended, a mob soon collected, the news of the +animal's size and fatness spread, and all ran to buy. Near at hand were +small wood fires stuck round with wooden skewers, on which small bits of +fat and lean meat, the size of a penny-piece, were roasting, +superintended by a woman with a mat dish placed on her knees, from which +she served her guests, who were squatted round her. Indeed, the market +was as busy a one as can be seen in any country. Jugglers also, like +those of India, were practising their tricks with snakes, having +extracted the venomous fangs. + +Haussa is celebrated for its boxers, the most expert of whom are found +among the butchers. Clapperton having intimated his willingness to pay +for a performance, a number of combatants arrived, attended by two +drummers and the whole body of butchers. A ring was soon formed, by the +master of the ceremonies throwing dust on the spectators to make them +stand back. The drummers entered the ring, followed by one of the +boxers, who was quite naked with the exception of a skin round his +middle. Placing himself in an attitude as if to oppose an antagonist, +he wrought his muscles into action, and then went round the ring showing +his arms to the bystanders and exclaiming: "I am a hyaena! I am a Hon! +I am able to kill all that oppose me!" To which the spectators replied, +"The blessing of God be upon thee!--Thou art a hyaena: thou art a lion." + +A number of fighters then came forward, when they were next ranged in +pairs. If they happened to be friends, they laid their left breast +together twice, and exclaimed: "We are lions! we are friends!" Then one +left the ring, and another was brought forward. If the two did not +recognise one another as friends, the combat immediately commenced. +They parried with the left hand open, and struck as opportunity offered +with the right, generally aiming at the pit of the stomach and under the +ribs. Occasionally they closed with one another, when one seized the +other's head under his arm and beat it with his fist, at the same time +striking with the knee between his antagonist's thighs. Indeed, much +the same brutality was exhibited as in English prize-fights. +Clapperton, hearing that they sometimes gouged out each other's eyes, +and that such combats seldom terminated without one or more being +killed, having satisfied his curiosity, ordered the battle to cease, and +gave the promised reward. + +The custom in this place is to bury the people in their own houses, +which are occupied as usual by the poorer classes; but when a great man +is buried, the house is for ever after abandoned. A corpse being +prepared for interment, the first chapter of the Koran is read over it. +The funeral takes place the same day. The bodies of slaves are dragged +out of the town and left a prey to vultures and wild beasts in most +places; but in Kano they are thrown into the morass or nearest pool of +water. + +On the 22nd of February, Clapperton commenced his journey towards +Sackatoo, in company with an Arab merchant, Mahomet Jolly, having left +his Jew servant, Jacob, to return in case of his death, with his effects +to Bornou. + +At the towns where he stopped he was generally taken for a _fighi_, or +teacher, and was pestered to write out charms. One day his washerwoman +insisted on being paid with a charm in writing, that would induce people +to buy earthenware of her. + +After travelling for some days he was met by an escort of one hundred +and fifty horsemen with drums and trumpets, sent by Sultan Bello to +conduct him to his capital, which he reached on the 16th of March. He, +as usual, dressed himself in his naval uniform; and, as he approached +the gates, he was met by a messenger from the sultan, to bid him welcome +and to acquaint him that his master, who was out on an expedition, would +return to Sackatoo in the evening. + +Large crowds were out to look at him, and he entered the city amid the +hearty welcomes of young and old. He was conducted to the house of the +_gadado_, or vizier, where apartments were provided for him and his +servants. The _gadado_ himself arrived in the evening, and was +excessively polite, but would not drink tea with him, as he said that he +was a stranger in their land, and had not yet eaten of his bread. + +Next morning the sultan sent for him. Clapperton found him seated on a +small carpet, between two pillars supporting the roof a thatched house. +The walls and pillars were painted blue and white in the Moorish taste. +Giving him a hearty welcome, the sultan at once entered into +conversation. He asked numerous questions about Europe, and seemed +perfectly well acquainted with the names of the more ancient sects, +inquiring whether his visitor was a Nestorian or a Socinian. Clapperton +replied that he was a Protestant, but had to acknowledge that he was not +sufficiently versed in religious subtleties to solve all the knotty +points on which Bello wished for information. He then ordered some +books belonging to Major Denham to be brought, among which was his +journal, and they were all in a handsome manner returned. He spoke with +great bitterness of Boo-Khaloum for making predatory inroads into his +territories, next putting the puzzling question: "What was your friend +doing there?" Clapperton replied that Major Denham had no other object +than to make a short excursion into the country. + +The sultan was a noble-looking man, somewhat portly, with short, +curling, black beard, a small mouth, a fine forehead, Grecian nose, and +large, black eyes. He was habited in a light-blue cotton _tobe_, with +white muslin turban, the small end of which he wore over the nose and +mouth in the Turaick fashion. + +This was the first of many visits Clapperton paid him. + +He was highly pleased with the various presents which the King of +England had sent him. He asked what he could give in return. +Clapperton replied that the most acceptable service he could render +would be to assist the King of England in putting a stop to the slave +trade. + +"What!" he asked; "have you no slaves in England? What do you do for +servants?" + +He was much astonished at hearing that regular wages were paid, and that +even soldiers were fed, clothed, and received pay from government. + +"You are a beautiful people," he observed. + +The usual question was also put: "What are you come for?" Clapperton +replied, "To see the country--its rivers, mountains, and inhabitants, +etcetera. My people had hitherto supposed yours devoid of all religion, +and not far removed from the condition of wild beasts, whereas I now +find them to be civilised, learned, humane, and pious." + +On another occasion Clapperton exhibited a planisphere of the heavenly +bodies. The sultan knew all the signs of the zodiac, some of the +constellations, and many of the stars by their Arabic names. He was +greatly interested with the sextant, or, as he called it, "the +looking-glass of the sun." Clapperton showed him how to obtain an +observation with it. + +The sultan made minute inquiries as to the conquests of the English in +India, and also the reason of their attack on Algiers, evidently +suspecting that they contemplated similar proceedings against his +country. Clapperton explained that the King of England had a vast +number of Moslems who were his willing subjects, and that their object +in India was to protect the natives and to give them good laws, not to +tyrannise over them; while, with regard to Algiers, the Algerines had +been punished because they persisted in making slaves of Europeans. + +The sultan, however, as after events proved, was far from satisfied, his +fears being increased by the Arabs, who were aware that the chief object +of the English was to open up a trade from the west coast with the +country, and, should they succeed, they themselves would thus be +deprived of their trade across the desert from the north. + +At Clapperton's request the sultan ordered a chart of the Quorra to be +drawn by one of his learned men, who asserted that that river entered +the sea at Fundah, near a town called Jagra, governed by one of Bello's +subjects. + +This made the traveller still more anxious to proceed down that river to +the coast, but the sultan, though he at first promised an escort, +ultimately declined sending it, declaring that he could not sanction so +rash an enterprise, and that his guest could only return home by the way +he had come. + +From an Arab chief residing here Clapperton obtained much information +about Mungo Park and the way in which he had lost his life, which +confirmed what had previously been heard. + +The sultan made an especial request that an English consul and physician +should be sent to reside at Sackatoo, and Clapperton promised that he +would represent the matter to his own government, and he had no doubt +that his request would be complied with. He also begged that guns and +rockets might be sent out by way of Tripoli and Bornou, under the escort +of an Arab leader, El Wordee, who had conducted the last caravan. This +Clapperton had no doubt was a device of El Wordee's, to have the +opportunity of conducting another English mission and fleecing them as +he had done the last. When the Arab found that his plans were opposed +by the traveller, he set to work to revenge himself, and by his +machinations succeeded in compelling Clapperton to abandon his intended +journey to the sea-coast by way of Youri. + +Frequent attempts were made to induce the traveller to turn Mahommedan, +especially by a famous old _maraboo_; but after his failure the Moslem +appeared to have given up the attempt as hopeless. + +At length, on the 4th of May, he was allowed to take his departure from +Sackatoo, escorted by one the sultan's officers, with a party of +merchants and their slaves. As the country was in a disturbed state, +they pushed on night and day through a dense underwood, which tore their +clothes and scratched the legs of the riders. Several of the poor +natives on foot, who had taken advantage of the escort to pass through +this part of the country, overcome with fatigue and thirst, sank down +never to rise. One of Clapperton's servants also dropped, apparently +dead; but his master had him lashed on the camel, when, throwing up a +quantity of bile, he soon appeared as fresh as ever. The next day many +of the horses died, and all the people were overcome with fatigue and +thirst. On the third day no less than nine men and six horses were +found to have perished on the road. + +Clapperton was taken to the town of Kashna, where an old Arab chief, who +had resided there for some years, took compassion on him and sent an +elderly black slave woman to nurse him, with two younger attendants. +This was the first offer of the kind he had ever received from a +Mussulman, and under their care and attendance he soon recovered his +health and strength. + +After meeting with numerous adventures and exposed to many dangers, on +the 8th of July he reached Kouka, when he found that Major Denham was +absent on a journey to the east side of the Chad. Hillman, the +carpenter, was busily employed in finishing a covered cart, to be used +as a carriage for the sheikh's wives. The workmanship reflected the +greatest credit on his ingenuity, though it was neither light nor +handsome. + +On the 16th of August, soon after Major Denham returned from the +eastward, he and Captain Clapperton, accompanied by William Hillman the +carpenter, took their departure from Kouka, with the intention of first +visiting the shores of Lake Chad and then joining the _kafila_ which was +on its way from Soudan to Tripoli. On the morning of their departure +they went to take leave of the sheikh, whom they found in his garden. +He gave them a letter to the King of England, and a list of requests, +and expressed himself very kindly. At parting he offered his hand, +which excited an involuntary exclamation from his attendants. + +Meeting with no event of any especial interest on their visit to the +lake, they joined the caravan on the 14th of September. + +Throughout the journey they found that they got on as well, if not +better than their companions, who looked to them both for safety and +protection, as well as for the direction of the route. They had upwards +of fifty miles to cross, over a frightful waste of movable sand-hills, +to Zow; many of the poor children, panting with thirst, scarcely able to +creep along. + +At Bilma they laid in a stock of dates for the next fourteen days, +during which man and beast nearly subsisted upon them, the slaves for +twenty days together mostly getting no other food. + +Then came the stony desert, which the camels, already worn-out by the +heavy sand-hills, had to cross for nine days. El Wahr is of surpassing +dreariness, the rocks a dark sandstone of the most gloomy and barren +appearance; the wind whistles through the narrow fissures, where not a +blade of grass finds nourishment, and, as the traveller creeps under the +lowering crags to take shelter for the night, he stumbles over the +skeleton of some starved human being. + +On the day they made El Wahr, and the two following, camels in great +numbers dropped down and died, or were quickly killed and the meat +brought in by the hungry slaves. + +Such are some of the ordinary events of a journey across the desert. + +On the 21st of January, 1825, they reached Tripoli, and soon after +embarked for Leghorn. Before leaving, however, Major Denham obtained +the freedom of a Mandara boy, whose liberation from slavery he had paid +for some months before. He now got the pacha to put his seal on the +necessary document, the only way in which a Christian can give freedom +to a slave in a Mahommedan country. + +The travellers were long detained by quarantine at Leghorn, so that the +three survivors of the expedition did not teach England till the 1st of +June. + + + +CHAPTER EIGHT. + +CAPTAIN CLAPPERTON'S SECOND JOURNEY. + +CAPTAIN CLAPPERTON'S SECOND JOURNEY, ACCOMPANIED BY RICHARD LANDER-- +JOINED BY CAPTAIN PEARCE--MESSRS. MORRISON AND DICKSON--REACHES BENIN-- +JOURNEY OF DICKSON AND COLUMBUS--THEIR DISAPPEARANCE--CLAPPERTON STARTS +FROM BADAGARRY--JOINED BY MR. HOUTSON--EXPEDITION REACHES JANNAH-- +ATTACKED BY FEVER--WELL RECEIVED--FONDNESS OF PEOPLE FOR DOGS--DEATH OF +CAPTAIN PEARCE AND DR. MORRISON--THE KING OF EYEO AND HIS WIVES-- +BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY--FELATAH VILLAGES--ENTER YOURIBA--THE KING'S COURT-- +ENTERTAINED WITH A PLAY--MR. HOUTSON RETURNS AND DIES--CLAPPERTON, WITH +LANDER AND PASCO, PROCEEDS ALONE--REACHES WAWA, NEAR THE NIGER--THE +WIDOW ZUMA--INQUIRIES ABOUT PARK--VISITS THE SCENE OF HIS DEATH--WELL +TREATED BY KING OF WAWA--ENTERS KINGDOM OF NYFFE--LAX MAHOMMEDANS-- +DESOLATED BY WARFARE--REACHES KANO--LEAVES LANDER WITH THE BAGGAGE, AND +PROCEEDS TO SACKATOO ALONE--TRYING JOURNEY--WELL RECEIVED BY BELLO-- +SIEGE OF ZEG-ZEG--ABSURD STYLE OF FIGHTING--BELLO SEIZES HIS PROPERTY-- +LANDER ARRIVES AT SACKATOO--ILLNESS AND DEATH OF CLAPPERTON--BURIED BY +LANDER--LANDER SETS OUT WITH INTENTION OF EXPLORING THE NIGER--WARNED +NOT TO PROCEED SOUTH--LEAVES KANO FOR THE WEST--TAKEN TO ZARIA--ALLOWED +TO PROCEED--CONTINUES JOURNEY ALONE TO BADAGARRY, AND ARRIVES IN +ENGLAND. + +From the favourable report which Clapperton on his return home brought +of the Sultan Bello of Sackatoo, and his wish to open up a commercial +intercourse with the English, the Government determined at once to send +out another expedition, in the hopes that that object might be carried +out, and that means might be found for putting a check on the slave +trade in that part of Africa. + +Clapperton, now raised to the rank of commander, was placed at the head +of the expedition. Captain Pearce and a Mr Morrison, a naval surgeon, +were appointed to serve under him. He also engaged the services of Mr +Dickson, another surgeon, and of a very intelligent young man, Richard +Lander, who was to act as his servant. + +As Sultan Bello stated that two large towns under his government existed +near the coast, called Funda and Raka, and that he would send down +messengers, whom his friends would meet on their arrival, it was settled +that the expedition should proceed to the Bight of Benin, and thence +make their way to Sackatoo. Losing no time, the very year after his +return Clapperton sailed from Portsmouth on board HM sloop "Brazen," +and, touching at Sierra Leone, arrived at Benin on the 26th of November. + +Mr Dickson, wishing to make his way alone to Sackatoo, was landed at +Whidah, taking with him Columbus, Denham's former servant, and from +thence, in company with a Portuguese of the name of De Sousa, he set off +for Dahomey. Here he was well received and was sent forward to a place +called Shar, seventeen days' journey from Dahomey. From thence he was +known to have set forward with another escort, but from that time +nothing whatever was heard of him or his attendant, Columbus. + +At Benin Clapperton met an English merchant of the name of Houtson, who +advised him not to ascend the river, but to take a route from Badagarry +across the country to Katunga, the capital of Youriba. + +Under the sanction of the King of Badagarry, the mission set out on its +long and perilous journey on the 7th of December, accompanied by Mr +Houtson. + +At Badagarry Clapperton had engaged an old negro, who had been a sailor, +named Pasco, and who, speaking English, was likely to prove useful as an +interpreter. + +Travelling on sixty miles, the mission entered the town of Jannah. By +this time all its members were suffering greatly from the climate; +Captain Pearce and Dr Morrison especially were very ill, and Richard +Lander was also suffering. Those who were able had ridden on horseback, +but the sick were carried in hammocks. + +They halted in the palaver-house, an open shed, which was soon +surrounded by thousands of people making a great noise. Here they +waited till the caboceer, or chief man, made his appearance. He came +gorgeously attired in a large yellow silk shirt and red velvet cap, with +a silver-mounted whip ornamented with beads in one hand, and a stick +covered with bells in the other, which he rattled whenever he spoke. He +took his seat on a large leathern cushion, placed on a scarlet cloth. +When Captain Clapperton was going to sit down on the cloth, the +attendant ladies pulled it from under him; so he took his seat on a mat. +The females then sang in chorus very beautifully. The members of the +commission then shook hands with the caboceer, who said he was glad to +see them, and that whatever they had to say to the King of Eyeo must +first be delivered to him. Their reply was that they had nothing to +say, except to request that the king would grant them a passage through +his country. His answer was that he was glad, that they should see the +King of Eyeo's face, and that he would give them a good path and forward +them on without trouble; but that they must ride on horseback, as his +people were unaccustomed to carry hammocks. They were then shown to a +house, where they remained during their stay. + +As Captain Clapperton and Mr Houtson walked through the town, they were +followed by an immense crowd, who rushed over the baskets in the +market-place, the boys darting under the stalls, the women bawling after +those who had scattered their goods; yet not a word of disrespect was +uttered to the strangers. They remarked the kind way in which the dogs +in this place were treated, their necks ornamented with collars of +different colours, and cowries. No great man was without one, which +always has a boy to take care of it. + +The people, hearing that a Brazilian brig had arrived at Badagarry, were +preparing to set out on a slaving expedition to a place to the eastward. + +Slave-dealers as the people were, they deserve to be commended for their +honesty; for during the whole journey hitherto, although the mission had +had ten relays of carriers, not a single article had been stolen. + +A few days after, Dr Morrison, who continued to get worse, requested to +return, hoping that the sea air would restore him. Mr Houtson +accompanied him back to Jannah. The next day Dawson, a seaman, who, +while suffering from ague caught at Jannah, had fallen off into the +water in the morning, died in the evening. Three days afterwards +Captain Pearce, who, supported by his wonderful spirits, insisted upon +coming on, grew much morse, and at nine in the evening he breathed his +last. + +The death of his friend was a serious loss to Clapperton, for he was +eminently qualified by his talents and perseverance to render essential +service to the mission. + +Another three days passed, when Mr Houtson returned with the sad news +that Dr Morrison had died at Jannah on the same day as Captain Pearce. + +Mr Houtson, though unwell, still insisted on accompanying Clapperton. + +Powerful as the king of Eyeo pretended to be, he employed his wives in +every place to trade for him, and, like women of the common class, they +were seen carrying large loads on their heads from town to town. + +On the 6th of January, 1826, the travellers entered the town of Chocho, +beyond which their road lay through beautiful rocky valleys, cultivated +in many places, and planted with cotton, corn, yarns, and bananas, and +many watered by little streams. Numbers of little huts were seen +perched on the tops and in the hollows of the hills. Beautiful as the +country was, it was the scene of the miserable devastating wars carried +on in all parts of Africa for the purpose of obtaining slaves to be sold +on the coast. + +On the 8th they entered Duffo, a town containing fifteen thousand +people. The crowd which came to see them in the house where they were +lodged was immense. When the people were told to go away, they said: +"No; if white man would not come out, they would come in to see him." + +They passed numerous other large towns, and were received in a friendly +manner by the caboceers, and were well supplied with fowls, sheep, and +goats. Yet the people, though kind, were exceedingly curious, and +allowed them but little rest. + +Further eastward they passed a number of Felatah villages, whose +inhabitants live there as they do in most other parts of Africa, +attending to the pasturage of their cattle, without interfering in the +customs of the country, or receiving any annoyance from the natives. +Some of them, as they passed, brought them milk to drink. + +Further on, however, they came to a number of villages, some of which +had been destroyed by the Felatahs, their walls being already covered +with weeds. + +As they approached Katunga, the capital of Youriba, the caboceer, with +an enormous escort, came out to meet them. His musicians kept drumming, +playing, dancing, and singing all night. + +The country round was well-cultivated. The city, as they saw it lying +below them, appeared surrounded and studded with green, shady trees, +forming a belt round the base of a granite mountain. + +The king was found seated under the verandah of his house, with two red +and blue umbrellas, raised on large poles, held over him by slaves. + +The crowd, as they advanced, had to be kept back with sticks and whips; +but they were used in a good-natured manner. + +Clapperton was told that he must prostrate himself before the king; but +this he declined doing, saying that he would turn back unless he was +allowed to act as he would do before his own sovereign; that he would +only take off his hat, and bow, and shake hands with his majesty, if he +pleased. The king agreed to this, and the English were introduced in +due form. + +Behind the king were an immense number of ladies, so closely packed that +it was impossible to count them. They stood up as the strangers +approached, and cheered them, shouting "Oh, oh, oh!" equivalent to +"Hurra!" while the men outside joined them. + +The king had on a large white shirt, with a blue one under it, and a +pasteboard crown, covered with blue cotton, made apparently by some +European on the coast, and sent up to him as a present. + +Comfortable apartments were provided for them, and in the evening the +king himself made his appearance, plainly dressed, with a long staff in +his hand, saying that he could not sleep till he had personally +ascertained how they were. + +They spent two very pleasant days here, resting after the fatigues of +their journey. The king pressed them to remain to see the national +amusements, which would begin in about two months. On this, Mr Houtson +enquired whether they were such as took place at Dahomey, on which the +king declared that no human beings were ever sacrificed in Youriba, and +that if he ordered the King of Dahomey to desist from such a practice he +must obey him. + +The king had sent forward a messenger to open the way to Nyffe, and till +he returned they were compelled to remain at the capital. + +They were entertained here with a pantomime, the stage being the open +ground before his majesty's residences, the characters appearing in +masks. One of them presented an enormous snake, which crept out of a +huge bag and followed the manager round the park while he defended +himself with a sword. Out of another sack came a man covered apparently +with white wax, to look like a European, miserably thin and starved with +cold. He went through the ceremony of taking snuff and rubbing his +nose. When he walked it was with an awkward gait, treading as the most +tender-footed white man would do in walking with bare soles over rough +ground. + +Clapperton pretended to be as much pleased with this caricature of a +white man as the natives were. + +Between each act the king's women sang a number of choral songs, joined +by the crowd outside. + +They thankfully heard, on the 6th of March, that the messengers had +returned, and that they might set out the next day, when the king +presented Clapperton with a horse and bade him farewell. + +Mr Houtson, who had been for some time suffering from illness, was +compelled to return, and he, too, died on reaching the coast. + +Clapperton, with his faithful attendant, Richard Lander, and the black, +Pasco, proceeded alone. They had evidence as they advanced of the +destruction caused by the Felatahs, in the number of villages which had +been burnt down, while the inhabitants of others, who had taken to +flight, were seen returning to their homes. + +A few days after starting they overtook a large caravan belonging to +Haussa, on its way from Gonga and Ashantee. It consisted of upwards of +a thousand men and women, and as many beasts of burden. The head man +offered to carry Clapperton's baggage to Kano for a certain sum. He +said that he had been detained in Gonga twelve months on account of the +wars. Their goods were carried on bullocks, mules, asses, and also by a +number of female slaves. Some of the merchants had no more property +than they could carry on their own heads. The chief of the town, +however, advised Clapperton not to trust the caravan leader, for, as he +had no means of conveying his luggage, he would undoubtedly leave him in +the lurch. He therefore proceeded as he intended, alone. + +On the 20th of March Clapperton entered the village of Barakina, the +inhabitants of which were noted as the best hunters in the country. As +he entered, a hunter came in from the chase. He wore a leopard-skin +over his shoulder, carrying a light spear in his hand, and his bow and +arrows slung over his shoulder. He was followed by three cream-coloured +dogs, their necks adorned with collars of different-coloured leather. +He was followed by a slave carrying a dead antelope. + +On leaving this village he passed through a narrow gorge, shaded by tall +majestic trees. "Here," he thought to himself, "are the gates leading +to the Niger." + +Next day he arrived before the walls of Wawa, in the neighbourhood of +the far-famed river. + +Here he met with a most unexpected difficulty. Not only did the +daughter of the governor make love to him, but a rich widow called Zuma, +the daughter of an Arab, who, though brown, considered herself a white +woman, insisted on marrying either him or his servant Richard. Being +above twenty, she was considered past her prime; but had it not been for +her stoutness, which made her look like a walking water-butt, she would +really have been handsome. Finding that neither of the white strangers +would accept her offers, she endeavoured to entrap them by giving a wife +to Pasco, by which, according to the customs of the country, she +obtained some sort of claim over his master. The governor soon became +alarmed, declaring that, as the lady had a thousand slaves and enormous +wealth, she would very likely drive him from the country, and, should +the traveller accept her hand, raise him to the throne of Waiva. In the +hopes of ending the matter, Clapperton set off for the Niger, leaving +his baggage to follow him to the ferry of Comie, while he went round by +Boussa. Greatly to his annoyance his baggage was, however, detained by +the governor, who feared the widow Zuma's machinations, and refused to +liberate it till her return. Clapperton had great difficulty in making +him believe that he had no sort of communication whatever with the lady. +Next day, however, the widow Zuma made her entrance into the city, +sitting astride on a fine horse, with housings of scarlet cloth trimmed +with lace. She herself was habited in a red silk mantle, red trousers, +and morocco boots, numerous spells enclosed in coloured leather cases +being hung round her. A large train of armed attendants followed her, +while she was preceded by a drummer decked in ostrich feathers. + +Clapperton's resolution, however, was not to be overcome. To settle the +matter he made Pasco give back his wife again, assuring the governor +that he had no intention whatever of entering into any of her designs. +She, therefore, indignantly shook the dust from her feet, and allowed +the hard-hearted stranger to proceed unmolested on his way. + +He made inquiries of all who could give him any information about the +fate of Park. They all asked him whether he intended to take up the +vessel, which they said still remained at the bottom. The governor's +head man told him that the boat stuck fast between two rocks; that the +people in it laid down four anchors ahead, when, the water rushing down +fiercely from the rocks as the white men attempted to get on shore, they +were drowned; that crowds of people went to see them, but that the white +men did not shoot at them, nor did the natives at the people in the +boat, as they were too much frightened either to shoot at or assist +them. They said, further, that a great many things were in the boat-- +books and riches--which the Sultan of Boussa had possession of; that +there was an abundance of beef, cut in slices and salted, and that the +people of Boussa who had eaten of it had died because it was human +flesh, which it was well-known white men eat. Another man, however, +asserted that the natives did shoot arrows because the people in the +boat had fired at them. + +They all treated the affair with much seriousness, looking on the place +where the boat was wrecked with awe, and telling some most marvellous +stories about her and her ill-fated crew. + +Boussa, Clapperton says in his journal, is a large town with extensive +walls, situated on an island in the Quorra, and that to reach it he had +to cross in a canoe, while his horse swam over. + +After Clapperton had offered the sultan the presents he had brought for +him, he inquired about the white men who had been lost in the river. He +seemed _very_ uneasy at the question, and replied that he was a little +boy at the time, and had nothing belonging to them; indeed, Clapperton +found that any books and papers which had been saved were in the +possession of the Sultan of Youri. + +Shortly afterwards a messenger arrived from that chief, inviting him to +his town, and offering to send canoes to convey him up the river; but +Clapperton, anxious to proceed on his journey, unfortunately declined +the offer. + +He was here treated in the kindest way possible, and everyone was ready +to give him information on all points, with the exception of that +connected with Park's death. + +The place, however, where the boat struck and the unfortunate crew +perished was pointed out to him. It was in the eastern of three +channels into which the river is here divided. A low flat island of +about a quarter of a mile in breadth lies between the town of Boussa and +the fatal spot. The banks are not more than ten feet above the level of +the water, which here breaks over a grey slaty rock, extending across to +the eastern shore. + +The sultan made him a present of a fine young horse, and his brother, +with many of the principal people, accompanied him as he set out on his +journey. + +As he rode towards the ford at Comie, he ascended a high rock +overlooking the river. From hence he saw the stream rushing round low +rocky and wood-covered islands and among several islets and rocks, when, +taking a sudden bend to the westward, the water dashed on with great +violence against the foot of the rock on which he sat. Below the +islands the river fell three or four feet, while the rest of the channel +was studded with rocks, some of which were above water. It seemed to +him, that even had Park and Martyn passed Boussa, their vessel would +almost to a certainty have been destroyed on these rocks, where they +would probably have perished unheard of and unseen. + +The traveller next entered the kingdom of Nyffe, till lately one of the +best cultivated and most flourishing in Africa, but, in consequence of +having been the prey of a desolating civil war, now almost ruined. A +dispute had arisen between two rival princes, one of whom called in the +aid of the Felatahs, who, in their usual way, had ravaged the whole +country and placed the traitorous prince on the throne. Two large +walled towns had, however, resisted the inroads of the invaders: one of +these was Coolfu, where Clapperton and the caravan he had now joined +halted for some days. Although the inhabitants were professedly +Mussulmans they were exceedingly lax in their religious duties, and none +of the bigotry so prevalent in other places was discernible. The women, +indeed, took an active part in public matters, many of them being +engaged in mercantile pursuits. They have an odd idea about imbibing +the precepts of the Koran; and, to do so, they get some learned man to +write texts from it with black chalk on pieces of board. These are then +washed, when the water is drunk. They evidently consider it a fetish or +charm of some sort. + +Clapperton now entered the Felatah country of Zeg-zeg. The region, in +the neighbourhood of its capital, Zaria, was the most beautiful he had +seen in Africa, being variegated with hill and dale, resembling in many +respects the finest parts of England. It was covered with rich pastures +and fields, now blessed with plentiful crops, while the rice grown there +was the finest in Africa. Zaria was said to contain fifty thousand +inhabitants, a population exceeding that of Kano. + +Arrived at Kano, he took up his quarters in his former residence. The +city was, however, in a great state of agitation, in consequence of war +raging on every side. Hostilities had broken out between the King of +Bornou and the Felatahs, while other provinces were in open rebellion, +so that a caravan had great difficulty in proceeding in any direction. + +As Kano is midway between Sackatoo and Bornou, Clapperton, who purposed +visiting the latter province, determined to leave his baggage at Kano, +under charge of Richard Lander, while he himself went forward, carrying +only the presents intended for Bello. + +His journey towards Sackatoo was very fatiguing; his camels were +worn-out, while he often suffered greatly from thirst. + +At the town of Jaza he met his old friend the _gadado_, the sultan's +general, with a numerous train on horseback and foot. The horsemen were +armed with spears, swords, and shields, the foot with bows and arrows. +The women came behind him, some riding on horseback astraddle, some on +camels, others on foot carrying the kitchen utensils. The _gadado_ was +preceded by a band, with four long trumpets, two drums, and a pipe. On +meeting Clapperton he dismounted, and taking him by the hand, walked +hand in hand with him into the house which had been prepared for his +reception. He said that Bello had received no letters from Bornou +appointing where his messengers were to meet the mission on the coast. + +Clapperton, besides suffering from hunger and thirst, lost his horse and +all his camels, which died, while his journal, ink-horn, pens, and +spectacles were stolen; nor did he ever recover them--one of the +greatest misfortunes that could happen to a traveller. + +On the 15th of October, about noon, he arrived at Bello's camp, and was +immediately admitted to an audience. + +The sultan's residence consisted of a number of huts, screened off by +cloth fixed on poles, making quite a village of itself. + +He received the traveller in a kind and gratifying way. He asked after +the health of the King of England, and was greatly surprised to hear +that Clapperton had remained only four months at home, and had hastened +back to Africa without seeing his friends. + +Bello's army was on its march to attack Coonia, the capital of the +rebels of Goobur. Nothing could be more disorderly than the march, +horse and foot intermingled in the greatest confusion, all rushing to +get forward; sometimes the followers of one chief tumbled amongst those +of another, when swords were half-drawn, but they ended in making faces +at each other, or putting on a threatening aspect. This disorderly army +consisted of upwards of fifty thousand fighting men, horse and foot. + +As soon as they arrived before the town, they formed a dense circle of +men and horses around it; the horse kept out of bowshot, while the foot, +as they felt courage or inclination to do so, rushed forward and kept up +a straggling fire with about thirty muskets in addition to their bows. +The Zeg-zeg troops had one French fusil, and the Kano force forty-one +muskets. The Kano men, as soon as they fired their pieces, ran out of +bowshot to reload. The enemy seldom threw away their arrows, not +shooting till they were sure of doing so with effect. Occasionally a +single horseman would gallop up and brandish his spear, while he covered +himself with his large leathern shield, returning as fast as he went and +shouting: "Shields to the wall, you soldiers of the _gadado_! Why do +you not hasten to the wall?" Many of the soldiers answered: "You have a +large shield to cover you," and disregarded the call. At length the +troops habited in quilted armour were marched forward, having at a +distance a somewhat fine appearance, as their helmets were ornamented +with black and white ostrich feathers, while at the sides pieces of tin +glittered in the sun, their long, quilted cloaks of gaudy colours +reaching down to the horses' tails and hanging over their flanks. The +riders were armed with large spears, and they had to be assisted to +mount their horses. Their quilted cloaks were so heavy that it required +two men to mount a cavalier. Six of these warriors belonged to the +sultan and six to each governor. + +The besieged possessed one musket, and with this they did wonderful +execution, for it brought down the van of the quilted cavaliers, who +fell from his horse like a sack of corn, when the footmen dashed forward +and dragged him and his steed out of harm's way. He had been shot by +two balls, which went through his body, one coming out and the other +lodging in his quilted armour. There were three Arabs, armed at all +points, one of whom was struck by the Coonia musket, but the others kept +carefully behind the sultan. + +The most useful and bravest person was an old female slave of the +sultan, who, mounted astraddle on a long-backed horse, rode about with +half a dozen gourds filled with water, and a brass basin, from which she +supplied the wounded and thirsty. + +In the evening this valiant army retired to their camp, when the Coonia +force managed to cut off the water from the stream which supplied it, +and then an alarm was raised that they were about to make an attack. On +this the whole army, horse and foot, tumbled over each other pell-mell, +trying who should get the soonest out of danger. + +Clapperton had wisely not undressed, but, making his servant saddle his +horse and load his camels, he set off in the morning with the army, +which soon afterwards retreated and returned to Sackatoo. + +Though his old Arab acquaintance called upon him and pretended to be +very friendly, they were plotting his destruction. Bello had also +received a letter from the Sultan of Bornou, warning him against the +machinations of the English. He likewise took steps to thwart the +traveller's objects, though he did not treat him with any personal +violence. When the chief people in the place found that their sultan +was no longer on friendly terms with the stranger, they also gave up +visiting him, and he was left very much alone. Bello likewise insisted +on seeing the letter which Clapperton was carrying to the King of +Bornou, and when his request was refused he seized it. He also by false +pretences induced Lander to come on to Sackatoo with the presents, +including several firearms which were intended for the King of Bornou, +that he might get them into his own possession. + +This news preyed greatly on Clapperton's mind, besides which he caught a +dangerous chill from lying down while hunting, when overcome with heat +and fatigue, on a damp spot in the open air. He was soon afterwards +seized with dysentery, which rapidly reduced his strength. During his +illness he was watched over with the tenderest care by Richard Lander, +who was also himself suffering much from sickness. + +Old Pasco, who had been dismissed at Kano for stealing, was at Lander's +suggestion forgiven, and greatly assisted their dying master. + +The heat was intense, and Lander used to carry him to a couch outside +the hut, where he might enjoy the air, and return with him in the +evening. He also daily read to him some portions of the New Testament, +and the ninety-fifth Psalm, which he was never weary of listening to. + +Twenty days he continued in this state, growing weaker and weaker. At +length he called his faithful servant to his bedside. "Richard, I shall +soon be no more: I feel myself dying." + +Almost choked with grief, Lander replied: "God forbid, my dear master! +you will live many years yet." + +"Don't be so much affected, my dear boy," said Clapperton. "It is the +will of the Almighty: it cannot be helped." + +He then directed Lander how to dispose of his papers and all his +property, adding, as he took his faithful attendant's hand: "My dear +Richard, if you had not been with me I should have died long ago. I can +only thank you with my latest breath for your kindness and attachment to +me; but God will reward you." + +During their conversation Clapperton fainted from weakness, but after +this appeared to rally, and for several days Lander's hopes revived; but +one morning he was alarmed by hearing a peculiar rattling sound +proceeding from his master's throat. At the same instant Clapperton +called out, "Richard!" in a low and hurried tone, when going to him, +Lander found him sitting upright in his bed, and staring wildly round. +Placing his master's head gently on his left shoulder, Lander gazed for +a moment at his pale and altered features. Some indistinct expressions +quivered on his lips, and, in the attempt to give them utterance, he +expired without a struggle or a sigh. + +Having done all that under the circumstances was required, he sent to +the Sultan Bello for permission to bury his master; and, in return, an +officer arrived with four slaves, and Lander was desired to follow them. +Placing Clapperton's body on the back of his camel, and throwing the +Union Jack over it, he bade them proceed, and they conducted him to a +village, situated on rising ground, about five miles to the south-east +of Sackatoo--the village of Jungavie. Here a grave was dug; and the +faithful attendant, opening a prayer-book, read, amid showers of tears, +the funeral service over the remains of his beloved master. + +Bello appeared to have regretted his treatment of the brave explorer. +He furnished Lander with the means of returning home, and gave him +permission either to proceed across the desert or to take any other +route. Lander, not wishing to trust the Arabs, determined to take the +route by which he had come, among the better-disposed negroes. He was +accompanied by old Pasco, who acted as his interpreter, and Mudey, a +black, who had always been faithful. + +On reaching Kano he determined to proceed southward to Funda, where, +from the information he received, he hoped to be able to settle the +problem of the course of the Niger, to ascertain whether it from thence +flowed onward to the sea, or turned eastward into the interior of the +country, as by many it was supposed to do. + +After travelling some distance he was warned that he would meet with a +mountainous region inhabited by cannibals, who would certainly put him +to death, and who were reported to have killed and eaten a whole caravan +a short time before. + +On his way he passed through a large place called Cuttup, which +consisted of five hundred small villages clustered together. Here he +was well received by the king, whose numerous wives were highly +delighted when he made them a present of two or three gilt buttons from +his jacket, which they, imagining to be pure gold, fastened to their +ears. + +He had reached the village of Dunrera near the large city of Tacoba, in +the neighbourhood of which the Shary was said to flow in a continuous +course between Funda and Lake Chad. This raised his spirits, and he was +expecting in ten or twelve days to solve the great problem, when, to his +dismay, four horsemen galloped into the town, their leader informing him +that the King of Zeg-zeg had sent to conduct him to Zaria. + +Finding himself compelled to obey, he repaired to the capital, where the +king boasted that he had done him an essential service; for, as the +people of Funda were at war with Sultan Bello, they would certainly have +murdered him. + +The king's chief object, however, was, it appears, to gratify his +curiosity, for, as he had been absent when Clapperton and Lander passed +through his capital, he had not before seen a white man. Lander was +well treated by the king's eldest son, a remarkably handsome young man +of two and twenty. As an especial mark of favour the prince introduced +him to his fifty wives, who were found industriously employed in +preparing cotton, making thread, and weaving it into cloth. They no +sooner saw him than, dropping their work, they flew off and hid +themselves. He here obtained a pack-bullock and a pony in lieu of his +asses, which were worn-out; and after some delay the king gave him +permission to proceed on his journey. + +Leaving Zaria, he proceeded westward, along the route by which he had +come into the country. + +Wherever he went inquiries were made about his father, as he was +supposed to be Clapperton's son, and every one expressed great grief at +hearing of his death. + +The intelligence, courage, and resolution he exhibited, proved Lander to +be no ordinary person. He not only made his way among the various +tribes he had to pass through, but carried with him in safety a large +trunk, containing Clapperton's clothes and other property, three +watches, which he had secured about his person to preserve them from the +rapacity of Bello, and all his master's papers and journals, with which, +after a journey of nine months, accompanied by three blacks, he arrived +in safety at Badagarry. + +From thence he was conveyed in the English brig "Maria" to Cape Coast, +whence he obtained a passage home in the "Esk," and arrived in England +on the 30th of April. + + + +CHAPTER NINE. + +JOURNEY OF THE LANDERS, AND THEIR VOYAGE DOWN THE NIGER, 1830. + +THE BROTHERS REACH BADAGARRY--PROCEED INLAND TO KATUNGA--WELL RECEIVED +BY THE KING--REACH BOUSSA--THE WIDOW ZURNA--KIND-HEARTED KING--VISIT +YOURI--RECEPTION BY THE KING--OBTAIN RELICS OF PARK--THE DANCING +MONARCH--OBTAIN CANOES--BEGIN VOYAGE DOWN THE NIGER--GREAT WIDTH OF THE +RIVER AT LEECHEE--SLEET THE KING OF THE DARK WATER--A ROGUISH ARAB-- +DETAINED BY MALLAM DENDOW--COMPELLED TO GIVE HIM PARK'S ROBE--REACH +EGGA--NO PRESENTS REMAINING--PASS MOUTH OF BINUE--THREATENED BY +NATIVES--DETAINED AT DAMUGGOO--ATTACKED BY PIRATICAL CANOES--JOHN LANDER +NEARLY DROWNED--PROPERTY SEIZED--RESCUED BY AN HONEST CHIEF--INHABITANTS +SIDE WITH THEM--JOURNALS LOST--CONTINUE VOYAGE--REACH EBOE--INTERVIEW +WITH OBIE, THE KING--HEAR OF ENGLISH AND SPANISH SHIPS IN THE RIVER-- +CONVEYED DOWN THE RIVER BY KING BOY--REACH ENGLISH BRIG--BRUTAL CONDUCT +OF THE CAPTAIN--BRIG ESCAPES FROM THE RIVER--THE LANDERS SAIL FOR RIO DE +JANEIRO AND REACH ENGLAND. + +The courage, perseverance, and judgment exhibited by Richard Lander in +making his way from Sackatoo to Badagarry after the death of Clapperton, +and the attempt he had made of his own accord to follow the course of +the Niger to the sea, pointed him out to the British Government as a fit +person to lead another expedition with that object in view. He at once +accepted the offer made to him, and was allowed to take his younger +brother John, a well-educated and intelligent young man, as his +companion. They were directed to proceed from Badagarry to Boussa on +the Niger, where Mungo Park was wrecked and lost his life, and down to +which he had traced the stream from the neighbourhood of Timbuctoo. +Thence, after visiting Youri, the chief of which place was supposed to +be in possession of Park's papers, he was to make his way, either down +the stream in canoes or along the banks by land, as he might find +practicable, either to the sea, if the stream was found to flow in that +direction, or eastward into Lake Chad, which at that time, it was +supposed, it might possibly do. In the latter case, if found advisable, +he was to return home by way of Fezzan and Tripoli; but, in either case, +he was to follow its course, if possible, to its termination, wherever +that might be. + +Sailing from Portsmouth on the 9th of January, 1830, the Landers reached +Cape Coast Castle on the 22nd. Here they were fortunate enough to +engage old Pasco and his wife, with Richard's former attendant, Jowdie, +together with Ibrahim and Nimo, two Bornou men, who could speak English, +as also the Haussa language. Hence they went to Badagarry, the chief of +which place, Adooley, entertained them hospitably. + +On the 31st of March, they commenced their journey into the interior, +proceeding up the river as far as it was navigable. Reaching Bidjii +they were supplied with horses, on which they continued their journey. +It was here Captain Pearce and Dr Morrison fell sick when accompanying +Clapperton in his last journey. Both the brothers suffered from +sickness; but, undaunted, they pursued their course till they reached +Katunga, the capital of Youriba. + +Houses in this province were formed of badly-built clay walls, thatched +roofs, and floors of mud, polished with cow-dung. The only difference +between the residence of a chief and those of his subjects consisted in +the number, though not in the superiority, of his court-yards. For the +most part they were tenanted by women and slaves, together with flocks +of sheep and goats, and abundance of pigs and poultry mixed +indiscriminately. The palace of the king, however, was somewhat +superior. + +The monarch had put on his robes of state to receive them, and amused +them while dinner was preparing with a concert from a number of long +drums, kettledrums, and horns. He wore on his head an ornament like a +bishop's mitre, covered with strings of coral. His _tobe_ was of green +silk, crimson silk, damask, and green silk velvet, sewn together like a +piece of patchwork. He wore English cotton stockings, and sandals of +neat workmanship. His subjects as they approached prostrated +themselves, rubbing their heads with earth, and kissing the ground +repeatedly, till their faces were covered with the red soil. + +The king was so amused with the very different style with which the +Englishmen saluted him that he burst out in a fit of laughter, in which +his wives and subjects joined him. + +They parted with the worthy monarch, who forwarded them on their +journey. + +Avoiding Avawa, at which place the widow Zuma had laid siege to the +hearts of Clapperton and his attendant, they proceeded on to Boussa, +which, greatly to their surprise, they found standing on the mainland, +and not on an island as Clapperton's journal had stated. + +The king asserted, when they had presented themselves, that he and his +court had been weeping all the morning for the death of Clapperton; but, +as no outward signs of tears were visible, the travellers rather +mistrusted the monarch's assertion. + +A hut having been selected for them, they repaired to it, and were well +supplied with dishes of meat, rice, and corn for supper. + +What was their astonishment the next day to receive a visit from the +widow Zuma! who appeared, however, woefully changed, being clad in very +humble apparel of country cloth. Having quarrelled with the ruler of +Wawa, she had made her escape over the city wall in the night, +travelling on foot to Boussa, where she had since taken up her abode. + +The king was highly pleased with the presents which the Landers had +brought him, and he and his wife, his chief counsellor and only +confidant, honoured them with a visit at their hut. The queen was +dressed in a check shirt, with several pieces of blue cotton--one tied +round her waist, another hanging over her shoulder, and one covering her +head--brass rings ornamenting her great toes, and bracelets her wrists; +besides which she wore a necklace of coral and beads of gold, and small +pieces of coral stuck in the lobe of each ear. Coral appeared to be in +great demand wherever they went, and the queen was disappointed on +finding that they had brought none. + +Lander, concealing the object of his journey, informed the king that his +purpose was to go to Bornou by way of Youri, and requested a safe +conveyance through his territories. + +This permission was granted, and, sending their horses by land, they +proceeded up the river in a canoe which was furnished them, towards +Youri. + +The scenery on the main branch of the river was interesting and +picturesque: the bank literally covered with hamlets and villages, and +fine trees bending under the weight of their dark foliage, and +contrasting with the lively verdure of the hills and plains. + +After proceeding a short distance the stream gradually widened to two +miles, in some places the water being very shallow, but in others of +considerable depth. + +Steering directly northward they voyaged on for four days, having +passed, they were told, all the dangerous rocks and sandbanks which are +to be found above Youri or below Boussa. + +Landing at a little village on the bank, where their horses met them, +they rode a distance of eight miles to the walls of Youri. That city +they entered through an amazingly long passage, at the end of which was +an immense door, covered with plates of iron rudely fastened to the +woodwork. + +A habitation had been provided for them, to which they were conducted, +excusing themselves from paying their respects to the sultan on account +of the fatigues of their journey. The following evening they visited +the sultan, whose palace consisted of a group of buildings enclosed by a +high wall. Dismounting, they were conducted along a low, dark avenue, +with pillars on either side, and, passing through which, they entered a +large square yard, where a number of servants were hurrying about and +others seated on the ground. They were kept waiting for some time, +till, receiving a summons to advance, they were introduced into another +square, which resembled a clean farm-yard. Here they found the sultan +seated alone on a plain piece of carpet, with a pillow on each side of +him and a neat brass pan in front. He was big-headed, corpulent, and, +though of advanced age, a jolly-looking man. He expressed his annoyance +that Clapperton did not visit him, and that Lander had not done so on +his return, and they were not sorry to take their leave. + +He here was shown a rich damask _tobe_, covered with gold embroidery, +which had belonged to Mr Park, and was probably part of the spoil taken +from the canoe, intended as a present to some native prince. They were, +at first, in hopes of obtaining Park's journals; but only an old +nautical almanack was seen, and they afterwards discovered that the +journals themselves, though kept for some years, had, after Clapperton's +death, been destroyed by the person into whose hands they had fallen. +They, however, obtained a gun which had undoubtedly belonged to Park, +and which was given up to them in exchange for one of their own +fowling-pieces. + +The king, though he expressed his readiness to assist them, declared +that he could not forward them on their way to the eastward, as from the +disturbed state of the country he would be unable to guarantee their +safety, and that the best thing he could do was to send them back to +Boussa. On this they immediately sent a message to the King of Boussa, +saying that as they were unable to continue their journey in the +direction they had proposed, they would feel deeply obliged if he would +lend them a canoe, by which they might proceed down the river to the +salt water, and that they would remunerate him to the best of their +ability. + +The disturbances of which they had heard had been created by the widow +Zuma, who had instigated the people of Nouffie to make a raid into the +territory of the King of Wawa. They had succeeded in carrying off some +bullocks near the walls of his town. She had fled from Boussa to +another town, the governor of which had, however, sent her back, and she +would now probably be severely punished by the King of Boussa, or be +returned to her own sovereign, who would probably cut off her head. + +On the 2nd of August they set off on their road to Boussa, but here they +were kept some weeks, during which either one or the other of the +brothers paid visits to the King of Wawa, from whom they found they had +the best chance of obtaining a canoe. The King and Queen of Boussa were +the most amiable couple they met with on their travels, and treated them +with uniform kindness during their stay. The king, though not equalling +the King of Wawa, is proud of his skill as a dancer, and he exhibited +his accomplishments at a grand festival which took place during their +visit. Although advanced in life, he was as active as a boy, and +indulged largely in his favourite amusement every Friday. + +On the last day of the festival, while his subjects were gathered in +large numbers on the racecourse, he appeared among them, followed by +boys carrying calabashes full of cowries, with which he rewarded the +dancers, singers, and musicians, scattering the remainder among the +crowd, to be scrambled for. Then, to show his affection for his +subjects, unwilling to send them to their homes without giving them +another treat, he danced sideways half way up the racecourse and back +again to his residence, with much stateliness, his amiable wife smiling +with delight that she had such a spouse, while the people were louder +than ever in their shouts of approbation. + +They heard here that El Kanemy, Major Denham's friend, had fallen into +disgrace with the Sultan of Bornou, who suspected him of treasonable +practices, and of the intention of usurping the sovereignty. He had +been imprisoned, and would have lost his head had not the Mahommedan +priests interfered and obtained his liberation. + +During their last visit to the King of Wawa, he exhibited a collection +of charms written on sheets of paper, glued or pasted together. Among +them was a small edition of Watts's Hymns, on one of the blank leaves of +which was written, "Alexander Anderson, Royal Military Hospital, +Gosport, 1804," which of course had belonged to Mr Park's +brother-in-law, who died in that neighbourhood. They had seen also two +other notes addressed to Park, one from a Mr Watson, and the other from +Lady Dalkeith. + +It was not before the 30th of September that at length, having obtained +the long-wished-for canoes, they were able to embark from the Island of +Patashie, in the neighbourhood of Boussa. Cheered by the natives, they +sprang on board, and the current rapidly bore them down the stream. + +Their voyage had now begun prosperously; but they were detained at +several places by the chiefs, who wished to get as much as they could +out of them. + +At Lever a priest, attended by a number of followers, told them that +they were in his power, and should not quit the town till he thought +proper. They had hitherto always behaved in the mildest manner +possible, but now Lander replied that if the priest or any one else +attempted to hinder them from taking their departure, he should feel no +hesitation in shooting him. In an instant the priest's manner changed, +and he became civil and humble. They and their people were, however, +allowed to make the attempt of launching their canoe, in which, as she +was long and heavy, they were unable to succeed. The priest and his +followers at length, ashamed of seeing the strangers labouring so hard, +came to the spot and in a few minutes carried their boats into the +water. They passed numerous islands, many of them several miles in +length and thickly inhabited. + +At Leechee the Niger was found to be three miles in width. The +inhabitants of the place had numerous canoes. The boatmen they engaged +here, though they had only paddled on for about forty minutes, refused +to go further, and they were compelled to wait till they could obtain a +fresh crew. Indeed, at the different places at which they stopped, they +were vexatiously delayed on various pretexts by the natives. + +At Belee Island a messenger arrived to inform them that they would be +visited in the morning by the King of the Dark Water. + +They embarked at an early hour, and at about ten o'clock the sound of +voices singing, which reached their ears over the surface of the stream, +warned them of the approach of the monarch. A small canoe came first, +and then another propelled by upwards of twenty fine young men. In +this, under a decorated awning, with a piece of scarlet cloth ornamented +with beads and gold lace in front, sat the King of the Dark Water. In +the stern were a number of musicians--drummers and a trumpeter--and in +the bow four little boys, neatly clad. The king, of coal-black hue, was +a fine-looking man, well stricken in years. He was dressed in a +bournous of blue cloth, under which was a variegated _tobe_, made of +figured satin, Haussa trousers, sandals of coloured leather, and a red +cloth cap on his head. He was accompanied by six fine, handsome, +jet-black girls, his wives, also picturesquely dressed, their wrists +ornamented with silver bracelets and their necks with coloured +necklaces. + +The travellers saluted him with a discharge from their muskets, and +while he went on shore, Richard arrayed himself in an old naval uniform +coat, and his brother in the handsomest dress he possessed; their +attendants put on new, white, Mahommedan _tobes_, while the British flag +flew from the bow of their boat, so that they might show him all the +respect in their power. These arrangements being concluded, the English +led the way down the river, followed by the King of the Dark Water, and +a squadron of canoes, to the island of Zagozhi, on which a town of +considerable size was situated. Opposite to it was the town of Rabba, +said to be very large and populous. + +The Niger flows at this spot in a direction south of east. + +While staying at this place, Lander was surprised by receiving an +over-warm and affectionate salutation from a little, ugly, old Arab, +whom he recognised as having been employed by Clapperton, having +afterwards acted as his own guide from Kano. He had cheated Clapperton, +and had also stolen Captain Pearce's sword and a sum of money when sent +back to Kano, from which he had decamped. When reminded of his +rogueries he only laughed, and then in the most impertinent manner +begged for everything he saw. Lander consequently turned him out of the +hut. + +They found here Mallam Dendow, a cousin of Bello, very old and feeble. +He was pleased with the presents he received, and through his means the +King of the Dark Water promised to supply them with canoes and a guide +to conduct them to the sea. + +Funda, the town near which the Niger was supposed to flow, was, as far +as they could learn, at a considerable distance from this neighbourhood. +Mallam Dendow had lately planned an expedition against it, but it +terminated by his warriors taking fright and returning to their homes +without accomplishing anything. + +These Arabs, throughout Africa, were the greatest curse of the country, +and were the chief cause of the devastating wars which were constantly +taking place, while they in no way contributed to the real civilisation +of the people. + +Just as the travellers were hoping to recommence their voyage, old Pasco +returned from Mallam Dendow with the unpleasant information that the +chief was dissatisfied with the gifts he had received, and that unless +they would present him with others of more value he would take their +guns and powder from them before he would permit them to leave Zagozhi. +Having no articles left among their stores, they were most unwillingly +compelled to present him with Mr Park's _tobe_, which had been given by +the King of Boussa. With this he was highly delighted, and now, +declaring that he would be their friend for ever after, he not only +obtained for them the restitution of their canoe, which had been seized +by the King of the Dark Water, but made them a present of a number of +handsome mats and a supply of cowries and provisions. + +On the 16th they again launched into the river, firing two muskets and +uttering three cheers as a salute to the King of the Dark Water and the +hundreds of spectators gazing at them, whom they soon left out of sight. + +They were now, with the exception of a few bracelets and other trifling +articles, possessed of nothing with which to make presents or pay +tribute to the chiefs. It was, therefore, important that they should +hasten down the stream, touching at as few places as possible. + +They passed a village on an island completely submerged, and were nearly +upset by striking against the roof of one of the cottages, towards which +a whirlpool had driven them. A number of canoes were engaged in +carrying off the inhabitants. + +At the island of Fofo they heard that the frontiers of Funda were three +days' journey down the Niger, and that the city itself was upwards of +three days' journey inland from the water-side, and that thus it would +be impossible for them to visit it. + +After they had left Zagozhi, in between three and four days they reached +Egga, a large town situated behind a morass, several creeks leading out +of it. A vast number of large canoes lay off the place, laden with all +kinds of merchandise. The chief, a venerable man with a long, white +beard, examined them from head to foot and, remarking that they were +strange-looking people well worth seeing, awarded them a commodious hut. + +It was a town of prodigious extent and had an immense population. The +river varied in width from two to five and six miles. + +They here observed Benin and Portuguese clothes worn by the inhabitants, +who, being very enterprising, were engaged in trading up and down the +river. + +On the 22nd they once more embarked, their crew greatly alarmed with the +prospect of meeting enemies ahead, who would, they said, very likely put +them to death. + +Had they, however, remained at Egga, they would probably have been made +slaves. They heard, indeed, dreadful reports of the character of the +people occupying both sides of the Niger between Kakunda and Bocqua. +They, however, loaded their arms and prepared to defend themselves. + +One of their men, Antonio, son of a chief on the Bonny river, who had +joined them from HM brig "Clinker," was especially alarmed--not on his +own account, as he said that his life was of no consequence, but that he +feared that his two white friends, whom he loved so dearly, might be +killed. They, accordingly, pulled on during the night, passing a large +town, from which issued a loud noise, as of a multitude quarrelling. +Once they fancied they saw a light following them, but it turned out to +be a will-o'-the-wisp. + +On the 25th of October suddenly the river changed to the south-west, +running between immensely high hills, and in the evening they passed the +mouth of a considerable rivet entering the Niger from the eastward. +After pulling up some little way, they found the current so strong +against them that they were compelled to return. This they concluded to +be the Tsadda, known, however, as the Binue. + +While their men were on shore collecting firewood they came suddenly on +a village, and, the people being aroused, the travellers, seated under a +palm-tree, were quickly surrounded; but the chief, appearing, was +persuaded that they only desired peace. Old Pasco was the only one who +had stood by them during the interval, the rest having taken to their +heels on the appearance of danger. + +On landing at another place, a number of women hastened out of an +adjacent village with muskets; but, seeing the travellers sitting down +quietly without making any hostile display, they soon became friendly. + +They were detained three days at Damuggoo, a very dirty town, where, +however, the people were generally dressed in Manchester cottons; that +is to say, they wore pieces of them round their waists, extending to the +knee. + +Continuing their voyage down the river, they observed the large market +town of Kirree. Near it were a number of canoes of considerable size, +with flags flying on long bamboos. Shortly afterwards a fleet of fifty +canoes appeared ahead, with flags of all nations, among which the Union +Jack was most conspicuous. All the people were dressed in European +clothes, with the exception of trousers, which the chiefs alone are +allowed to wear. + +Lander, overjoyed by the sight, supposing that they must be friends, +approached without fear, when a huge man of most forbidding countenance +beckoned him to come on board his canoe. The next instant the sound of +drums was heard, and several men levelled their muskets at the +traveller. In addition to the muskets, each canoe had a long four or +six-pounder in its bow, besides which the crews were armed with swords +and boarding-pikes. In an instant their luggage was transferred to the +canoes of their opponents, while some of them seized Pasco's wife, and +were dragging her out of the canoe. On this Lander, calling to his men +to assist him, determined to sell his life as dearly as he could; and, +having dragged back Pasco's wife, they fought so determinedly that they +were able to effect their escape. None of the other canoes had +interfered, and, seeing that which had plundered them making its way to +the market, Lander pulled after her as fast as he could go, in the hopes +of recovering their property. On their way they encountered another +canoe, in which a person, apparently of consequence, hailed them with +the words: "Hilloa, white man! You French; you English?" + +"English," answered Lander. "Come here in my canoe," was the reply. +Lander accordingly got into his canoe, while the chief put three men +into Lander's that they might assist in pulling to the market. He at +once treated Lander with great kindness and promised him every +assistance in his power. + +Soon after this, what was Richard Lander's dismay to see the canoe of +which his brother John had command followed by the villains who had +attacked him, capsized, and sunk, while their luggage went to the +bottom--his brother and crew being left struggling in the water. +Richard was on the point of leaping in to help him, when he saw him +dragged into another canoe, the other men swimming on shore. It was +some time before he was able to reach him, when, with their new friend, +they repaired to the market. Here they found a number of Damuggoo +people and others who sided with them, and a Mahommedan from Funda urged +them to keep up their spirits, and that all would be made right. Search +was then commenced for their property. One of their journals and a box +of books, with the medicine chest and a few articles of clothing were +found, and after a palaver were restored; but the whole of Richard +Lander's journal with the exception of one note-book, Mr Park's gun and +thirty-six of their cutlasses and pistols, some elephant tusks, ostrich +feathers, leopard-skins, and a variety of seeds had all been lost, as +well as their remaining cowries, buttons, and needles, which were so +important to enable them to purchase food. + +The people who had attacked them were from Eboe, and had come this +distance on a plundering expedition, intending to trade when unable to +carry off property without fighting. The leading man who had attacked +them was put into irons and doomed to die by the people of Kirree; and +it was decided that if the king of Eboe, whose subject he was, should +refuse to put him to death, no more of his canoes should be allowed to +come to the country to trade. + +Escorted by six war-canoes from Damuggoo, the travellers left Kirree and +continued their voyage down the river, passing through a large lake-like +expanse of the Niger, till on the evening of the 8th they reached the +town of Eboe. + +The houses were neatly built of yellow clay, plastered over and thatched +with palm leaves. Yards were attached to each, in which plantations of +bananas and cocoa-nut trees grew. + +Here they were addressed in English by several brawny fellows with +stentorian voices, who shook hands, asking them "how they did"--one +calling himself Gun, though Blunderbuss or Thunder would have been as +appropriate a name, then stating that his brother was King Boy and that +his father was King Forday, who with King Jacket governed all the Brass +country. He also informed them that a Spanish schooner and an English +brig, the "Thomas," of Liverpool, were lying in the first Brass river. + +After resting for some time they were conducted to the palace of the +dreaded Obie, king of the Eboe country. Instead of the savage monster +they expected to see, a door opened, when a sprightly young man, with a +mild countenance and an eye which indicated quickness and intelligence, +appeared before them and cordially shook hands. His dress was so +covered with a profusion of coral ornaments that he might appropriately +have been styled the "Coral King." On his head he wore a sugar-loaf +hat, thickly adorned with strings of coloured beads and pieces of broken +looking-glass, while several strings of beads were tightly fastened +round his neck. He had on a short Spanish surtout of red cloth, +ornamented with gold epaulettes, and a pair of trousers of the same +material, while both his legs and wrists were covered with strings of +beads, and to each leg, above the naked ankles and feet, was suspended a +string of little brass bells, which jingled as he walked. + +An account of what had happened at Kirree was narrated to him, and he +declared his intention of settling the matter. Notwithstanding his +protestations, however, the fair-spoken king detained the travellers, +and would have kept them and their followers in slavery had not King +Boy, the eldest son of the King of Brass Town, volunteered to pay their +ransom on receiving a written promise that it should be repaid to him by +the master of the "Thomas," then lying in the Brass River, or by any +other merchantman captain who might be found there. King Boy wished to +send the document down to the brig at once; but fortunately Lander told +him that he was sure the captain would not pay it till he had been +received on board. On this the King of Eboe allowed them to embark in +King Boy's canoe. It was a large craft, paddled by forty men and boys, +in addition to whom there were, besides the king and his wife and their +own party, several slaves, so that the number on board amounted to fully +sixty people. There were also cannon lashed to the bows, and a number +of cutlasses and chests of spirits, silk, and cotton goods. + +Thus laden, the Brass canoe took her way down the river, her unfortunate +English passengers dreadfully cramped for room--John Lander one night, +while suffering from fever, having the feet of the royal couple in his +face. + +On the 15th of November they landed at the excessively dirty town of +King Forday, situated in the middle of a marsh. Here they took up their +quarters at Boy's house. + +Soon after their arrival they were cheered by recognising the features +of a European in the midst of a crowd of savages. He proved to be the +master of a Spanish schooner lying in the Brass River for slaves. He +was affable and courteous, and told them that six of his crew were ill +of fever and that the rest were suffering. + +Their residence, which its owner called an English house, was built +close to the water, of yellow clay, but with several windows, all +furnished with shutters. + +Having paid his respects to King Forday, Richard Lander, leaving his +brother and his men at the town, set off, in King Boy's canoe, to go +sixty miles down the river to the brig. + +His feelings of delight may be imagined when he had ocular evidence that +he had at length succeeded in tracing the mysterious Niger down to the +ocean, by seeing before him two vessels, one the Spanish slaver, the +other the English brig on board which he fully expected to receive the +assistance he so greatly required. + +To his utter surprise and consternation, on going on board, Captain +Lake, though almost himself at death's door from fever, flatly refused +to give him a single thing. By his language and behaviour he showed +himself to be a greater savage than the ignorant blacks among whom +Lander had been travelling. Lander in vain expostulated with the +captain; fearful oaths and flat refusals were the only answers he made. +At last, when Lander suggested that he had five men, who might be useful +in working his vessel out of the river, he softened a little, and gave +him a change of linen and some provisions for his brother. + +King Boy was ultimately induced to go back to bring John Lander and the +rest of the men, on Richard's reiterated promise that he would at some +time or other obtain the goods they had promised him. He presented him +also with some silver bracelets, which they had before overlooked, and a +native sword. These articles Boy accepted, but when John Lander offered +him his watch it was refused with disdain, the savage not knowing its +value. + +The captain of the brig had in the meantime loaded his guns and got his +arms ready, and when Boy came up to him once more, to demand the bars +which had been promised, he replied, in a voice of thunder: "I no will!" + +As the pilot, to whom the captain had also refused to pay his demand, +could not be trusted to take the brig out, she narrowly escaped +shipwreck on the bar, but happily at length getting clear of the river, +she steered a course for Fernando Po, where the travellers landed. +Hence they sailed for Rio de Janeiro, which they reached on the 16th of +March, and from that port obtained a passage on board the "William +Harris" to England, which they reached safely on the 10th of June. + +Thus, with very humble means, by the energy and courage of two +unpretending men, was the long-disputed problem of the course of the +Niger at length completely solved. + +Besides the payment which the Government had promised to Richard Lander, +he received a premium of fifty guineas, placed at the disposal of the +Royal Geographical Society by the king, and his brother John obtained +employment under Government suitable to his abilities. + + + +CHAPTER TEN. + +TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES OF DR. BARTH IN NORTH AND CENTRAL AFRICA, 1849. + +LEAVES TRIPOLI WITH MR. RICHARDSON AND DR. OVERWEG--SUPPRESSION OF SLAVE +TRADE THE CHIEF OBJECT OF THE EXPEDITION--NUMEROUS RUINS SEEN--CROSS THE +HAMMADA DESERT--REST AT AN OASIS--REACH MOURZOUK--DR. BARTH'S +ADVENTURE--NEARLY PERISHES IN THE DESERT--DIFFICULTIES OF JOURNEY-- +FOLLOWED BY TAWAREK FREEBOOTERS--PREPARATIONS FOR AN ATTACK--STRANGE +DANCERS--TRIBUTE DEMANDED--CAMP AT NIGHT--EXPECTING AN ATTACK--CONSTANT +FIRING KEPT UP--CAMELS STOLEN--PURSUED--DANGEROUS SITUATION--TRAVELLERS +EXPECT DEATH--SAVED BY FRIENDLY CHIEF--DR. BARTH VISITS AGADES--A +SALT-CARAVAN--THE CARAVAN REACHES TAGELEL. + +The British Government had, in 1849, appointed Mr Richardson, an +experienced traveller in Africa, to the command of an expedition which +was to start from Tripoli, on the north coast, and thence endeavour to +penetrate to the central part of the continent. By the recommendation +of the Chevalier Bunsen Dr Barth, who had spent three years travelling +through Barbary and the desert tracts to the westward bordering the +shores of the Mediterranean, was allowed, accompanied by another German, +Dr Overweg, to join the expedition. + +A light boat, which was divided into two portions and could be carried +on the backs of camels, was provided, and a sailor to navigate her +either on Lake Chad or down the Niger. + +Dr Barth and his countryman at once pushed on for Tripoli, in the +neighbourhood of which they made long excursions while waiting for the +arrival of Mr Richardson, who had remained in Paris for despatches. + +One of the principal objects of the expedition was the abolition of the +slave trade, which it was known was carried on to a fearful extent in +those regions. The principal employment of the Moorish tribes on the +borders of the territories inhabited by blacks is still, as it was in +the days of Mungo Park and Clapperton, slave-hunting. Villages are +attacked for the purpose, when the prisoners captured are carried +northward across the desert and sold in Morocco and the other Barbary +states. + +Another object was the opening up a lawful commercial intercourse with +the people who might be visited, and the exploration of the country for +scientific purposes, as well as to discover the course of the great +river which the Landers had seen flowing into the Niger in their +adventurous voyage down that stream. + +On the arrival of Mr Richardson the travellers at length set out from +Tripoli, on the 24th of March, 1850. They rode on camels, a +considerable number of which were also required to carry their baggage. +The boat had unfortunately been divided only into two pieces instead of +four, thus causing much trouble. + +We may picture them setting forth with their long line of camels and +numerous attendants, servants, camel-drivers, and guides, and +accompanied by Mr Crowe, the consul, Mr Reade, the vice-consul, and +other friends who came forth to see them start; or with their tents +pitched on a moonlight night, amidst a few date and olive trees, in a +green meadow--a little oasis surrounded by sand. + +The two doctors alone required eight camels for their luggage, besides +those they rode. Dr Barth had procured an excellent one of the +renowned Bu-Saef breed. The travellers were well-armed, as they had to +pass through disturbed districts, and were likely to encounter open +enemies, and might have to keep treacherous attendants in awe. + +During the first part of their journey their way lay along cultivated +and flourishing corn-fields in the narrow _wady_, or valley, of Majenin. +At the further end of it Mr Richardson with his party overtook them +and pitched his enormous tent. It was not till the 2nd of April that +they fairly set out on their expedition. Keeping to the west of a +rugged range of hills, they entered the rocky _wady_ of Haera, where +they filled their water-skins from the pools formed by the rain. + +The long oars and poles of the boat caused the camels which carried them +much fatigue; but the boat, which was now cut into quarters, was more +easily packed. + +The country over which they passed was stony and rocky, intercepted by +dry water-courses, and, as they proceeded, here and there adorned with +clusters of date-trees. They frequently passed the ruins of Roman +temples, tombs, monuments, and other buildings, and also numerous Roman +milestones: the Romans, indeed, had extensive colonies in this district. + +Their chief object, when seeking a spot for encamping, was water. +Sometimes it was found in pools: at others in wells, being drawn to the +surface by oxen. + +Travellers in Africa cannot proceed at railroad speed. Camels journey +much after their own inclination, straying to the right or left--nipping +here a straw, and there browsing on a bush--and, being obstinate +creatures, it is difficult to urge them forward faster than they like. +The doctor would have preferred a horse, but it would have been +necessary to carry barley and water for it, as it cannot live like the +camel without drinking when crossing the desert. The expense, too, +would have been very great. + +Their course was nearly due south, directed in the first place towards +the town of Mourzouk, the capital of Fezzan. + +Their general rate of marching was at from two to two and a half miles +an hour. The heat was very great. The doctor's Arab servant, who had +gone off to see his family in the neighbourhood, on his return arrived +at the encampment after they had started. He, accordingly, set off to +overtake the caravan. Though he had a skin of goat's milk, yet it +became so hot that he could not drink it; and, as he was obliged to +march the whole of the day without water, he suffered greatly and +arrived in a very exhausted state. + +Among the monuments passed was one adorned with rich carving, proving +that these regions, now so poor, must have once supported a population +sufficiently advanced in taste and feeling to admire works of a refined +character. They also found ruins of Christian churches of a later +period. + +They were now travelling through a district known as the Hammada--a +high, level, stony region, destitute of wells or pools. Here and there, +however, small green patches of herbage were found, affording a welcome +meal to the camels. + +They were accompanied by a little green bird, called the "asfir," which +lives entirely upon the caravans as they pass along, by picking off the +vermin from the feet of the camels. + +At a green oasis, El Wueshkeh, where grew a few stunted palm-trees, +their camel-drivers killed a number of a venomous lizard, called +"bu-keshash." At night a cold wind, accompanied by rain, began to blow; +their tent was overturned, and they had much trouble in pitching it +again. The next day a number of truffles were found, which afforded +them some delicious truffle soup. + +They met, soon after starting, two caravans--the largest consisting of +fifteen camels laden with ivory. With the latter was a woman sitting +comfortably in a little cage on the camel's back. + +Passing through a narrow ravine between gloomy cliffs, they reached a +sandy waste, passing across which they at length arrived at some +crumbling ruins surrounding a well, where they and their camels could +quench their thirst. Though the great watering-place on this desert +road, it has not a cheerful aspect; but, as the water is always bubbling +up and keeps the same level, the largest caravan might be fully +supplied. A day was spent here, as both camels and men required rest. + +Day after day they travelled on, passing through rocky _wadies_ and +narrow defiles, out of the sides of which projected jet-black masses of +sandstone, giving a wild air to the desolate region. + +One day two gazelles were caught, an addition to their bill of fare. + +At length in the distance appeared a town on the top of a broad, +terraced rock. They took long to reach it. + +It is rarely such a place is seen in that part of the world. The rock +rose in the midst of a valley, occupying a position which in days of +yore must have made it a place of great importance. It is called Ederi. +Amidst the sand-hills which surround it are green fields of wheat and +barley, and here and there groves of date-trees. + +Before them now lay a series of sand-hills, intermingled with small +clusters of palm-trees. Sometimes the ascent of the sand-hills was most +trying for the camels. They extend for five days' march or more, but +are nothing in comparison with those in the direction of the Natron +Lakes: so one of their guides told them. + +Often, while crossing this sandy waste, thirsty travellers are deceived +by the effects of the curious mirage, when lakes glittering in the sun, +with towers, domes, and minarets reflected on their surface, appear +before their eyes, to vanish suddenly as they approach. + +Their camel-drivers had led them them to the left, in order to visit +their own village of Ugrefe. It consisted of about thirty light and low +dwellings made of clay and palm branches. In an open space near it they +encamped beneath two splendid ethel-trees, or tamarisks. + +At length, on the 6th of May, they reached the plantations surrounding +Mourzouk, the capital of Fezzan. The walls are built of a sort of clay +glittering with saline incrustations. Going round the whole of the +western and northern sides, which have no gateway wide enough for a +caravan, they halted on the eastern side of the town, not far from the +camp of the pilgrims who were returning from Egypt to Morocco. They +were here welcomed by Mr Gagliuffi, a Greek merchant, who received them +into his house. + +The buildings are mostly of one story, with flat roofs and parapets, +with interior courts, and broad porticoes supported by pillars in front. +The town contains a bazaar and barracks for two thousand Turkish +troops. It is a thoroughfare rather than the seat of a commerce. + +They were here joined by a man of influence named Mahomet Boro, an +elderly, respectable-looking personage, wearing a green bournous over +white under-clothes. He was to act as mediator between them and the +inhabitants of the countries they were to visit. He was now on his +homeward journey from a pilgrimage to Mecca. + +On the 13th of June they left Mourzouk by the eastern gate. Some chiefs +from Ghat had arrived, to whose charge Mr Gagliuffi had committed the +travellers. At this Mahomet Boro became very indignant, and threatened +that he would take care that they should be attacked on the road by his +countrymen, nor were these empty threats. + +It is remarkable that while the Mahommedan religion in general is +sinking to corruption along the coast, there are ascetic sects rising up +in the interior which unite its last zealous followers by a religious +bond. From some of these sects travellers receive much ill-treatment +and annoyance. On the 15th of July the doctor determined to visit a +remarkable mountain which appeared in the distance. Being unable to +obtain any guide, he set off, taking with him as provisions only dried +biscuits and dates--the worst possible food in the desert when water is +scarce. Making his way over the pebbly ground, he saw a pair of +beautiful antelopes, which stopped, gazing at him and wagging their +tails. + +The distance proved far greater than he had imagined; indeed, there was +a deep valley between him and the side of the mountain. Still, eager to +reach its summit, he pushed on. The sun began to put forth its power; +there was not the slightest shade around. At length he reached the +height at which he was aiming, but, on looking round, he in vain sought +for any traces of the caravan. Having but a small supply of water in +his water-skin, he could only venture to sip a few drops, while he could +with difficulty eat his dry biscuit and dates. + +Fearing that the caravan might push on believing him to be in advance, +he immediately descended the mountain, in order to follow its course. +At noon he swallowed the remainder of his water, but, taken on an empty +stomach, it did not restore his strength. Believing that his party were +to encamp at no great distance from the mountain, he strained his sight +in hopes of seeing his friends; but no living being was visible. Having +walked some distance, he ascended a mound crowned with an ethel-bush, +where he fired his pistols; but a strong east wind blowing against him, +he in vain waited for an answer. Crossing some sand-hills, he again +fired, and, at last convinced that there could be nobody in that +direction, he supposed that his party were still behind him, and +unluckily kept more to the east. At last some small huts appeared in +the distance. He hastened towards them, but they were empty, nor was a +drop of water to be obtained. His strength being exhausted, he sat down +on the bare plain, hoping that the caravan would come up. For a moment +he thought he saw a string of camels passing in the distance, but it was +a delusion. + +He mustered strength sufficient to scramble to an ethel-tree on an +elevated spot, intending to light a fire, but, unable to move about, he +could gather no wood. Having rested after dark for an hour or two, he +once more rose, and discovered in the south-west a large fire. Again he +fired his pistols, but no answer was returned. Still the flames rose +towards the sky, telling him where deliverance was to be found, but he +was unable to drag his weary limbs so far. Having waited long, he fired +a second time, yet no answer came. At last he resigned himself to the +care of the Merciful One and tried to sleep, but in vain--he was in a +high fever. The long night wore away and dawn was drawing nigh. All +was repose and silence: he was sure that he could not choose a better +time for trying to inform his friends by signal of his whereabouts. +Collecting his remaining strength, he loaded his pistol with a heavy +charge and fired once and then again. His companions seemed not to have +heard his signals. The sun he had half longed for, half looked-forward +to with terror, at last rose. His condition, as the heat increased, +became more dreadful. He crawled round the tree, trying to enjoy the +little shade afforded by the leafless branches. About noon there was +only sufficient shade left to shelter his head. He suffered greatly +from the pangs of thirst, till at last, becoming senseless, he fell into +a sort of delirium, from which he only recovered when the sun went down +behind the mountain. Crawling from beneath the shade of the tree and +throwing a glance over the plain, suddenly the cry of a camel reached +him. It was the most delightful music he had ever heard in his life. +Raising himself a little, he saw a mounted Tarki passing at some +distance and looking eagerly around. The Tarki had discovered his +footprints in the sandy ground. Crying as loud as his faint strength +would allow, "_aman! aman_!" ("Water! water!") he was rejoiced to see +the Tarki, Musa by name, approaching, and in a few moments he was at his +side, washing and sprinkling his head. His throat was, however, too dry +to enjoy the draught which Musa poured into it. His deliverer then +placed him on his camel, mounted himself in front, and carried him to +the tents. + +The strength of a European is soon broken in those climes, if for a +single day he is prevented from taking his usual food. Next day, +however, the doctor was able to continue his journey. + +Ghat, well situated in the centre of an oasis, was next reached. It is +surrounded by mud walls, with flat-roofed houses, while outside are +plantations of date-trees. + +On the 26th of July the caravan again set out. On the 29th they +commenced their ascent to the greatest elevation of the desert, four +thousand feet above the sea. The path winding along through loose +blocks of stone, the precipitous ascent proved very difficult. Several +loads were thrown off the camels, and the boat frequently came in +contact with the rocks. It is indeed the wildest and most rugged region +of the whole desert. At one place the road meandered in a remarkable +way, sometimes reduced to a narrow crevice between curiously-terraced +buttresses of rocks. Two hours were occupied in descending. + +At the bottom was a _wady_ between steep, precipitous cliffs looking +almost like walls erected by the hand of man. They were more than a +thousand feet high, with a pond of rainwater at the bottom. The valley +is called Aegeri. + +They had now to pass a region of sand-hills. During their passage the +mirage set before their eyes beautiful sheets of water, which quickly +disappeared as they approached. + +Desolate as the country appears, large herds of wild oxen rove over it. +Though the men tried to catch some of them, they were unsuccessful, as +the animal, sluggish as it seems, rapidly climbs the rocks and is soon +lost to sight. + +The travellers, having now entered the tropics, expected to reach +pleasanter regions than they had hitherto passed through. Their guides, +however, were leading them further to the west than they wished, their +great desire being to reach Negroland as soon as possible. + +On the 18th of August they were quietly pursuing their road, when one of +their party was seen running up behind them, swinging his musket over +his head and crying: "Lads, our enemy has come!" Alarm was spread +through the caravan: everyone seized his arms, and those who were riding +jumped from their camels. The man reported that a number of Tawarek, +mounted on camels, had been seen rapidly approaching, with the evident +intention of attacking the caravan. A warlike spirit prevailed, and +all, the doctor thought, would fight valiantly. Freebooting parties, +however, do not attack openly. They first introduce themselves in a +peaceable way, when, having disturbed the little unity which exists in +most caravans, they gradually throw off the mask. + +After some time they came to the conclusion that it was not likely that +they would be attacked by daylight. They, therefore, sent off a body of +archers to gain information from a small caravan which was coming from +Soudan, consisting of a few Tebus, ten camels, and about forty slaves. +The unfortunate Tebus were soon afterwards attacked by a fierce tribe, +the Haddanara, who, disappointed at getting nothing from the English +expedition, murdered the whole of them and carried off their camels and +slaves. + +Soon after the party had encamped at night three strangers made their +appearance; but, although they were known to be robbers, and that a +number of their companions were not far off, they were allowed to lie +down for the night. The experienced old Sheikh of the Kafeila warned +Barth to be on his guard, and exhorted his attendants to be staunch. +Everybody was crying for powder. Their clever servant, Mahomet, placed +his four pieces of boat on the outside of the tents, that they might +afford shelter in case of an attack. They kept watch the whole night, +and the strangers, seeing them well on their guard, did not venture to +assail them. In the morning they went slowly away to join their +companions, who had kept behind a rocky ridge in the distance. There +was indeed much cause for anxiety. Suddenly an alarm was raised that +the camels had been stolen. The old chief, taking advantage of this +state of things, urged Barth and Overweg to confide their property to +him and another chief. This was not entirely disinterested advice; for, +if anything had happened to the travellers, the chief would, of course, +have been their heir. + +At an early hour they started with an uneasy feeling. With the first +dawn the true believers had been called together for prayer; and the +bond which united the Mahommedan members of the caravan with the +Christian travellers, it was seen, had been loosened in a very +conspicuous manner. + +Instead of, as usual, each little party starting off as soon as they +were ready, they all waited till the whole caravan had loaded their +camels, when they began their march in close order, to be ready in case +of being attacked. + +After advancing some distance they saw four men seated ahead of them, on +an eminence. The doctor, being in the first line of the caravan, +dismounted and led forward his camel. A party of archers had been +despatched to reconnoitre. What was his surprise to see them and the +unknown individuals executing a wild sort of armed dance. Suddenly two +of the dancers rushed upon him and grasped the rope of the camel, asking +for tribute. Barth seized his pistols, when, just in time, he was told +they were friends. + +The eminence is an important locality in the modern history of the +country. It was here, when the Kel-owi, a pure Berber tribe, took +possession of the territory of old Gober, that a covenant was entered +into between the red conquerors and the black natives, that the latter +should not be destroyed, and that the principal chief of the Kel-owi +should only be allowed to marry a black woman. As a memorial of this +transaction, when caravans pass the spot where the covenant was entered +into, the slaves make merry and are authorised to levy upon their +masters a small tribute. + +The black man who had stopped the doctor was the chief of the slaves. +As the caravan proceeded, the merry creatures executed another dance, +and the incident would have been of great interest if the members of the +caravan had not been depressed with the forebodings of mishap. + +They now reached a small village of leathern tents, inhabited by a +people of the tribe of Fade-ang, in a valley on the frontier region of +Aire. The chief was respected as a person of great authority, and, it +was said, was able to protect them against the freebooting parties which +their guests of the other day, who had gone on before, were sure to +collect against them. He had been invited to the camp; but he sent his +brother instead, who, it was soon evident, could render them no +assistance. The travellers were soon surrounded by the inhabitants, to +whom a number of small presents were given. These men were very +inferior in appearance even to the common Taki freebooter, and extremely +degraded in their habits. + +While resting in their tents they were alarmed by a report that a body +of sixty Mehara were about to attack them, and again everybody was +excited, all calling out for powder and shot. It was evident that there +was an entire want of union among the members of the caravan. + +The scene which followed in the bright moonlight evening, and lasting +through the night, was animating and interesting in the extreme. The +caravan was drawn up in line of battle, the left wing being formed by +the travellers and the detachment of the Kel-owi who had posted +themselves in front of their tents, while the Timylkum and the Sfaksi +formed the centre, the rest of the Kel-owi with Boro the right wing, +leaning upon the cliffs, the exposed left being defended by the four +pieces of boat. About ten o'clock a small troop of Mehara, so-called +from riding on _mehara_, or swift camels, made their appearance. +Immediately a heavy fusillade was commenced over their heads, and was +kept up with shouting during the night. + +The enemy hovered around them during the whole of the next day, and +prevented them from making excursions. + +Leaving their camping ground on the 24th of August, they travelled on +without molestation; but, soon after their tents had been pitched the +next evening in a valley full of talha trees and oat-grass, the +marauders again made their appearance, mounted on camels, and, +dismounting within pistol-shot of the tents, discussed, with wild, +ferocious laughter, their projects with their Azkar confederates in the +caravan. Some of these soon afterwards came and told them that they +might sleep with perfect security; others, however, warned them that +they must on no account rest during the night. Preparations for an +attack were therefore made, and their camels were brought close to the +tents; but the Kel-owi left theirs outside. + +In the morning it was found that all the camels had been carried off. +On this, Boro led on the more warlike members of the caravan in pursuit. +The enemy were overtaken, and, alarmed by the appearance of the +bayonets, which they saw would place the Europeans on an equality even +after the guns had been fired, offered to come to terms. They declared +that they had only come against the white men because they were +Christians, and immediately all sympathy for the travellers ceased in +the caravan. The rebels were allowed to retain their booty and were +treated besides with an enormous quantity of _mohamsa_. + +They now hoped to proceed without further molestation; and the Merabet +chief, who had accompanied and sanctioned the expedition against them, +was allowed to join their party, as it was thought to be the best means +of preventing any further molestation. Boro, who passed the evening +with Mr Richardson's interpreter, in reading the Koran, treated him +hospitably. + +They were expecting to reach Selufiet, where they hoped to be in safety. +When about eight miles from it, the chiefs insisted on encamping, and a +number of Merabetin, a fanatical tribe, insisted that they should turn +Mohammedans. Their friends and servants urged them to do so, as the +only means of saving their lives. They were kept seated in their tent +while the fanatics discussed the subject. The travellers sat in +silence. At last Mr Richardson exclaimed: "Let us talk a little. We +must die. What is the use of sitting so mute?" For some minutes death +seemed really to hover over their heads. Mr Richardson proposed trying +to escape for their lives, when the kind-hearted Sliman rushed into the +tent, exclaiming in a tone of sincere sympathy: "You are not to die." +The Merabetin were content instead to receive a heavy tribute. +Unfortunately, the merchandise they carried, instead of consisting of a +_few_ valuable things, was composed of worthless, bulky objects; and, as +they had also ten iron cases filled with dry biscuits, the ignorant +people supposed that they carried enormous wealth. In consequence, when +all the claims had been settled, the rebels threatened to fall upon the +rest of the baggage. Their friendly chief on this declared that some of +it was his own, and also dashed to pieces one of the iron cases, when, +to the astonishment of the simple people, instead of beholding heaps of +dollars, they saw a dry and tasteless sort of bread! + +Meanwhile, the persecuted Christians made off under the escort of the +Kel-owi, and the whole caravan was once more collected together. + +On the 4th of September they encamped on the summit of a sand-hill, in a +broad valley, near the village of Tintellust, the residence of the chief +Amur, under whose protection they were now to proceed. The chief +received them in a friendly way, and assured them that, even though +Christians, the dangers and difficulties they had gone through would +suffice to wash off their sins, and that they had nothing to fear but +the climate and the thieves. He told them that they were welcome to +proceed to Soudan at their own risk; but that if they wished for his +protection, they must pay him handsomely. + +While the camp remained here, Dr Barth paid a visit to the town of +Agades, a place once of great importance, and still containing about +seven thousand inhabitants, a large number engaged as tradesmen or in +commerce. It is situated on the borders of the desert, surrounded by +lawless tribes. He performed his journey on the back of a bullock, with +his luggage behind him. He was received in a very friendly way by the +sultan, who told him that he had never before heard of the English--not +suspecting from whom the gunpowder he used was obtained. The doctor, +after placing the treaty before the sultan, said that the English wished +to enter into friendly relations with all the chiefs and great men of +the earth, in order to establish commercial intercourse with them. He +then told him that they had been deprived of nearly all the presents +they were bringing for himself and the other princes of Soudan. At this +he expressed the greatest indignation. + +After spending two months at Agades, the doctor returned to Tintellust. +Here the expedition was detained six months waiting for an escort, +without which they could not proceed with any degree of safety to +Soudan. At length, on the 5th of December, the first body of the +salt-caravan, for which they had been waiting, arrived from Bilma, and +on the 12th of December, 1850, they began to move. The caravan looked +like a whole nation in motion: the men on camels or on foot; the women +on bullocks or asses, with all the necessaries of the little household, +as well as the houses themselves; a herd of cattle, another of +milk-goats, and a number of young camels running playfully alongside, +and sometimes getting between the regular lines of the laden animals. +The old chief walked ahead like a young man, leading his _mahary_ by the +nose-cord. + +The ground was very rocky and rugged, and looked bare and desolate in +the extreme. Several high peaks, which characterise this volcanic +region, rose on either side. + +The whole caravan consisted of about two thousand camels, of whom two +hundred were laden with salt. At night their camp presented many lively +and merry scenes, ranging as it did over a wide district illuminated by +large fires. Dancing was going forward and the drummers were vying with +each other, one especially rivalling their drummer Assam, and performing +his work with great skill, caused general enthusiasm among the dancing +people. + +On their journey on the 29th of December, they found the ground covered +with _had_, a plant regarded by the Arabs as the most nutritious of all +the herbs of the desert for the camel. Numerous footprints of the +giraffe were seen, besides those of gazelles and ostriches, and also of +the large and beautiful antelope (_Leucoryx_). Here, too, was seen the +_magaria_, a tree which bears a fruit of the size of a cherry, of a +light brown colour. When dry it is pounded and formed into little +cakes, and is thus eaten. + +On the 1st of January, 1851, they fell in with a tribe of the Tagana, +whose morality is of the lowest order. Hunting, together with +cattle-breeding, is their chief occupation, and on their little swift +horses they catch the large antelope as well as the giraffe. + +A steep descent of a hundred feet conducted the caravan off the high +region of the Hammada to a level plain. + +On the 7th they came in sight of a village, where they saw for the first +time that style of architecture which extends over the whole of central +Africa. The huts are composed entirely of the stalk of the Indian corn, +with only a slight support from the branches of trees. They are +somewhat low, curved over at the top. Amid them were seen small stacks +of corn, raised on scaffolds of wood about two feet high, to protect +them from the white ant and mouse, as also from the _jerboa_, which is +so pretty an object to look at as it jumps about the fields, but is an +especial foe to the natives. The people came forth from the villages to +offer cheese and Indian corn. They were black pagans and slaves, meanly +and scantily dressed, but far more civilised in reality than the +fanatical people among whom Barth and his companions had hitherto been +travelling. + +On the 9th of January the travellers reached Tagelel. From this place +there was little danger in their proceeding singly, and it was agreed, +in consequence of the low state of their finances, that they should +separate, in order to try what each might be able to accomplish +single-handed and without ostentation, till new supplies should arrive +from home. + + + +CHAPTER ELEVEN. + +TRAVELS OF DR. BARTH, CONTINUED. + +DR. BARTH QUITS MR. RICHARDSON--REACHES TASSAWA--ARRIVES AT KANO-- +FLOURISHING COUNTRY--KANO DESCRIBED--KINDLY TREATED--MANUFACTURES AND +IMPORTS--SETS OUT WITH HIS SERVANT GATRONI FOR BORNOU--HEARS OF MR. +RICHARDSON'S DEATH--ENTERS KOUKA--THE VIZIER MEETS HIM--RECEPTION OF THE +SHEIKH, A BLACK--EXCURSION WITH THE SHEIKH TO NGORNU--VISITS LAKE CHAD-- +FISHERMEN ON THE LAKE--JOURNEY TO ADAMAWA--REACHES THE BINUE RIVER-- +COMPELLED TO RETURN--SETS OUT FOR KANEM--TRAVELLING WITH ROBBER PARTY-- +ATTACKED BY NATIVES--ROBBERS BEATEN--RETURNS TO KOUKA--EXPEDITION OF +VIZIER AGAINST MANDARA--BEAUTIFUL, WELL-CULTIVATED COUNTRY DEVOTED TO +DESTRUCTION--THE NATIVES BARBAROUSLY SLAUGHTERED--SLAVES TAKEN--DEMMO +DESTROYED--MUSGU WARRIORS--NATIVES DEFEND THEMSELVES ON AN ISLAND-- +RETURNS TO KOUKA--JOURNEY TO BEGHARMI--WELL TREATED AT LOGGUN--REACHES +THE MAGNIFICENT SHARY--WHITE ANTS--MADE PRISONER AND PUT INTO CHAINS-- +RELEASED, AND ENTERS MAS-ENA--A LEARNED BLACK FAKI--VISIT TO THE +SULTAN--HIS SUPERSTITIOUS FEARS--BARTH RETURNS TO KOUKA--DEATH OF DR. +OVERWEG. + +Parting from Mr Richardson, the two Germans continued on to Chirak, +where Overweg quitted Dr Barth, who intended to proceed to Tassawa. +The doctor, disposing of a favourite camel, obtained horses for the +remainder of the journey and now went on alone; but, accustomed to +wander by himself among strange people, he felt in no degree oppressed. +His companion was a black, Gajere, a Mahommedan, and, though +communicative, rather rude and unable to refrain from occasionally +mocking the stranger who wanted to know everything but would not +acknowledge the prophet. Mounted on an active steed, he and his +attendants soon reached Tassawa, the first large place of Negroland +proper which he had seen. Everywhere were unmistakable marks of the +comfortable, pleasant sort of life led by the natives. The court-yards, +fenced with tall reeds, closed to a certain degree the gaze of the +passer-by, without securing to the interior absolute secrecy. Near the +entrance was a cool shady hut for the transaction of ordinary business +and the reception of strangers. The lower portions of most of the +houses consisted of clay, and the upper part of wicker-work, while the +roof was composed of reeds only. The dwellings were shaded with +spreading trees, and enlivened with groups of children, goats, fowls, +pigeons, and, where a little wealth had been accumulated, by a horse, or +pack-ox. The men wore white shirts, and trowsers of dark colour, while +their heads were generally covered with light caps of cotton cloth. +Only the wealthier wore the shawl thrown over the shoulders like the +plaid of a Highlander. The dress of the women consisted almost entirely +of a large cotton cloth of dark colour, fastened round the neck with a +few strings of glass beads. + +On the 1st of February Dr Barth approached the important city of Kano. +Almost all the people he met saluted him kindly and cheerfully, only a +few haughty Fellani passing without a salute. + +The villages were here scattered about in the most agreeable way, such +as is only practicable in a country in a state of considerable security. +Some of them were surrounded by a bush like the broom, growing to a +height of ten or twelve feet. The doctor and his native companions +passed through a village in which was a large market-place consisting of +several rows of well-built sheds. The market women who attached +themselves to their cavalcade assured them that they would be able to +reach the city that day, but that they ought to arrive at the outer gate +before sunset, as at that time it is shut. The party accordingly pushed +on; but, after entering the gate, it took them forty minutes to reach +the house of Bawu, and, as it was quite dark, they had some trouble in +taking possession of the quarters assigned to them by their host. + +Kano had been sounding in the traveller's ears for more than a year; it +had been one of the great objects of his journey. It is the chief +central point of commerce, a great storehouse of information, and was, +Barth considered, the point from whence a journey to more distant +regions might be most successfully attempted. At length, after nearly a +year's exertions, he had reached it. He was, however, greatly +inconvenienced by not being provided with ready cash, instead of which +merchandise had been provided for the expedition, which they had been +assured would not only be safer than money, but would also prove more +advantageous. + +Barth had now to pay away a large sum, and all the smaller articles, +which had been carried for barter, having been expended by the heavy +extortions to which they had been subjected on the road to Aire--he was +placed in much difficulty for want of means. He soon found also that +Bawu, Mr Gagliuffi's agent, could not be implicitly relied on. + +The currency of the country consists of cowrie shells, or _kurdie_, +which are not, as in regions near the coast, fastened together in +strings of one hundred each, but are separate, and must be counted one +by one. The governors of towns make them up in sacks containing twenty +thousand each. Private individuals will not receive them without +counting them out; those even who made but a few small purchases had to +count out five hundred thousand shells. + +The doctor had now to borrow two thousand _kurdie_, which did not amount +to the value of a dollar. + +He was forbidden to leave his quarters until he had seen the governor, +and he was thus kept within them for several days, till he was attacked +by fever. At length, on the 18th of February, he received a summons to +attend the great man. + +Although the distances in Kano are less than those of London, they are +very great, and the ceremonies to be gone through are almost as tedious +as those of any European court. + +Arousing himself, and putting on his warm Tunisian dress, wearing over +it a white _tobe_ and a white bournous, he mounted his poor black nag +and followed his advocates, Bawu Elaiji and Sidi-Ali, the two latter of +whom showed him the most disinterested friendship. It was a fine +morning: before him lay the whole scenery of the town, in its great +variety of clay houses, huts, sheds, green open places affording pasture +for oxen, horses, camels, donkeys, and goats, in motley confusion, with +many beautiful specimens of the vegetable kingdom--the slender +date-palm, the spreading _alleluba_, and the majestic silk-cotton tree-- +the people in all varieties of costume, from the almost naked slave up +to the most gaudily-dressed Arab, all formed a most animating and +exciting scene. + +Passing through the market-place, they entered the quarters of the +ruling race--the Fulbe or Fellani, where conical huts of thatched work +and the gonda-tree are prevalent. + +They first proceeded to the house of the _gadado_, the lord of the +treasury. It was an interesting specimen of the domestic arrangements +of the Fulbe, who do not disown their original character of nomadic +cattle-breeders. Its court-yard, though in the middle of the town, +looked like a farm-yard, and could not be commended for its cleanliness. + +The treasurer having approved of the presents and appropriated to +himself a large gilt cup, the doctor and his companions were conducted +to the audience-hall. It was very handsome, and even stately for this +country. The rafters of the elevated ceiling were concealed by two +lofty arches of clay, very neatly polished and ornamented. At the +bottom of the apartment were two spacious and highly-decorated niches, +in one of which the governor was reposing on the _gado_ spread with a +carpet. His dress consisted of all the mixed finery of Haussa and +Barbary. He allowed his face to be seen, the white shawl hanging down +far below his mouth, over his breast. + +The governor was highly pleased with the handsome presents he received, +and the doctor, notwithstanding the fatigue he had gone through, quickly +recovered from his fever. + +The next day he rode round the town. Here were a row of shops filled +with articles of native and foreign produce, with buyers and sellers in +every variety of figure, complexion, and dress, yet all intent upon +their little gain. There a large shed full of naked half-starved slaves +torn from their homes--from their wives or husbands, from their children +or parents--ranged in rows like cattle, and staring desperately upon the +buyers, anxiously watching into whose hands it should be their destiny +to fall. In another part were to be seen all the necessaries of life; +here a rich governor dressed in silk and gaudy clothes, mounted upon a +spirited and richly-caparisoned steed, and followed by a host of idle, +insolent slaves; there a poor blind man, groping his way through the +multitude, and fearing at every step to be trodden down. There were +pleasant scenes too, a snug-looking cottage with the clay walls nicely +polished, beneath the shade of a wide-spreading alleluba-tree; or a +_papaya_ unfolded its large leather-like leaves above a slender, smooth +and undivided stem; or the tall date-tree, waving over the whole scene; +a matron, in clean black cotton gown, busy preparing the meal for her +absent husband or spinning cotton, and at the same time urging the +female slaves to pound the corn, and children, naked and merry, playing +about in the sun, or chasing a straggling, stubborn goat; earthenware +pots and wooden bowls, all cleanly washed, standing in order. In one +place dyers were at work, mixing with the indigo some coloured wood in +order to give it the desired tint, others drawing a shirt from the +dye-pot or hanging it up on ropes fastened to the trees. Further on, a +blacksmith, busy with his rude tools making a dagger, a formidable +barbed spear, or some more useful instrument of husbandry. Here a +caravan appears from Gonga bringing the desired kola-nut, chewed by all +who have ten _kurdie_ to spare; or another caravan laden with natron; or +a troop of A'sbenawa going off with their salt to the neighbouring +towns; or some Arabs leading their camels, heavily laden with the +luxuries of the north and east. Everywhere human life was to be seen in +its varied forms, the most cheerful and the most gloomy closely mixed +together--the olive-coloured Arab, the dark Kanuri with his wide +nostrils, the small-featured, light, and slender Ba-fellanchi, the +broad-faced Mandingo, the stout, large-boned, and masculine Nupe female, +the well-proportioned and comely Ba-haushe woman. + +The doctor met with many friends, and was very kindly treated at Kano. +He was again attacked with illness, but, recovering, prepared to set out +for Kukawa, where he had arranged with Mr Richardson to arrive in the +beginning of April. The capital of the large province of Sackatoo +contains sixty thousand inhabitants during the busy time of the year, +about four thousand of whom belong to the nation by whom the people were +conquered. The principal commerce consists in native produce, viz., +cotton cloth, woven and dyed here and in the neighbouring towns in the +forms either of _tobes_, the oblong piece of dress of dark colour worn +by the women, or plaids of various colours, and the black _litham_. A +large portion of it is sent to Timbuctoo, amounting to three hundred +camel-loads annually, thus bringing considerable wealth to the +population, for both cotton and indigo are produced and prepared in the +country. Leathern sandals are also made with great neatness and +exported in large quantities. Tanned hides and red sheep-skins are sent +even as far as Tripoli. The chief article of African produce sold in +the Kano market is the kola-nut, which has become to the natives as +necessary as coffee or tea to Europeans. The slave trade is an +important branch of commerce, though the number annually exported from +Kano does not exceed five thousand; but very many are sold into domestic +slavery, either to the inhabitants of the province itself or to those of +the adjoining districts. + +The greatest proportion of European goods is still imported by the +northern road; but the natural road by way of the great eastern branch +of the so-called Niger will in the course of events be soon opened. The +doctor deeply regretted that after the English had opened that noble +river to the knowledge of Europe, they allowed it to fall into the hands +of the American slave-dealers, who began to inundate Central Africa with +American produce, receiving slaves in return. Happily an end has come +to this traffic. The English did not appear to be aware of what was +going on. Space will not allow us to speak further of the various +articles of commerce. The principal English goods brought to the market +of Kano are bleached and unbleached calicoes and cotton prints from +Manchester, French silks, and red cloth from Saxony, beads from Venice +and Trieste, a coarse kind of silk from Trieste, paper, looking-glasses, +needles and small ware from Nuremberg, sword blades from Solingen, +razors from Styria. It is remarkable that so little English merchandise +is seen in this great emporium of Negroland. + +On the 9th of March the doctor, with immense satisfaction, mounted on +his ugly little black nag, rode out of Kano. He had but one servant, +his faithful Gatroni, to load his three camels. He was, however, +attended by a horseman to see him to the frontier of the Kano territory. +The latter, being showily dressed and well mounted, gave himself all +possible airs as they rode through the narrow streets into the open +fields. Hence he took an easterly course towards Bornou proper. + +After passing a number of interesting places, on the 22nd of March the +doctor entered the region of Bornou proper. It is here that the +dum-palm exclusively grows in Negroland. + +He enjoyed an interesting and cheerful scene of African life in the +open, straggling village of Calemri, amid which, divided into two +distinct groups by a wide, open space, were numerous herds of cattle +just being watered. How melancholy came afterwards the recollection of +that busy scene, when on his return, three and a half years later, he +found it an insecure wilderness, infested by robbers, the whole of the +inhabitants having been swept away! + +On the 24th, as he was approaching a more woody district than he had +hitherto passed, a richly-dressed person rode up to him and gave him the +sad intelligence of the death of Mr Richardson at Kukawa. He still +could scarcely believe the news; but it was confirmed afterwards by +another party of horsemen whom he met. At first he felt as if the death +of Mr Richardson involved the return of the mission; but after some +consideration he resolved to persevere by himself. On the 2nd of April, +pushing on ahead of his camels, on horseback, he approached Kukawa, or +Kouka, the capital of Bornou. Proceeding towards the white clay wall +which encircles the town, he entered the gate, gazed at by a number of +people, who were greatly surprised when he enquired for the residence of +the sheikh. Passing the daily market, crowded with people, he rode to +the palace, which bordered a large promenade on the east. It was +flanked by a mosque, a building of clay with a tower on one side, while +houses of grandees enclosed the place on the north and south sides. + +On approaching the house of the vizier, to whom he had been directed, he +found assembled before it about two hundred gorgeously-dressed horsemen. +The vizier, who was just about to mount his horse in order to pay his +daily visit to the sheikh, saluted him cheerfully and told him that he +had already known him from the letter which had been despatched. While +he rode to the sheikh he ordered one of the people to show the doctor +his quarters. + +Some days passed before he was introduced to the sheikh. In the +meantime he had a good deal of trouble regarding the means of paying Mr +Richardson's servants. By great firmness he obtained possession of all +Mr Richardson's property, which would otherwise have been appropriated +by the chiefs. He found the sheikh reclining upon a divan in a fine, +airy hall. He was of a glossy black colour, with regular features, but +a little too round to be expressive; dressed in a light _tobe_, with a +bournous wrapped round his shoulder, and a dark red shawl round his head +with great care. + +The doctor spent a considerable time in Kukawa, devoting himself to the +study of the language, and making enquiries about the surrounding +country. Kukawa was not so bustling a place as Kano, but thickly +inhabited, and on market-day crowded with people. + +He became acquainted with many visitors to the place, among them a +_hadji_, Ibrahim. On one occasion Ibrahim, being unwell, asked the +doctor for medicine, and received in return five doses, which he was to +take on successive days; but Ibrahim, being in a great hurry to get +well, took the whole at once, and was very nearly dying in consequence-- +an event which would have placed the doctor in a very dangerous +position. + +His stay at Kukawa was agreeably interrupted by an excursion to Ngornu +in which he accompanied the sheikh, and from thence paid a visit to the +shores of Lake Chad. Attended by two horsemen and his servants, he set +out for the lake. After an hour's ride they reached swampy ground, and +had to make their way through the water, often up to their knees on +horseback. After the dry and dreary journey over sands, he found it +very pleasant thus wading through deep water. Two boats were seen with +men in them, watching evidently to carry off into slavery any of the +blacks who might come to cut reeds on the banks of the lagoon. Further +on they reached another creek inhabited by hippopotami, which were +snorting about in every direction, and by two species of crocodile. +There were no elephants seen, however, as that animal always likes to +secure a dry couch on the sand, elevated above swampy ground, where it +may be free from mosquitoes. On the northern part of the lake, where +there are ranges of low sand-hills, immense herds are to be met with. + +At the village of Maduwari, he made the acquaintance of a chief, Fugo +Ali, who treated him with great kindness and continued his friend ever +afterwards. It was at his house, a year and a half later, poor Dr +Overweg was destined to expire. Accompanying Fugo Ali, he made a long +excursion in the neighbourhood of the lake, which is difficult to be +reached, as it is surrounded by forests of reeds and broad creeks. He, +however, got to one of these, a fine, open sheet of water, now agitated +by a light east wind, which sent the waves rippling on the shore. The +surface was covered with water-plants, and numberless flocks of fowl of +every description played about. To reach it he had to pass through very +deep water which covered his saddle, though he was mounted on a tall +horse; and one of his companions on a little pony was swamped +altogether, his head and his gun alone being visible from time to time. + +The inhabitants on the shores of the lake subsist chiefly on fish, which +they catch in an ingenious way. The fisherman takes two large gourds, +which he connects by a bamboo of sufficient length to allow him to sit +astraddle between them. He then launches forth on the water, taking his +nets. These are weighted by little leathern bags, filled with sand and +supported by bits of bamboo. Having shot his net, he paddles about with +his hands, driving the fish into it, and then, taking them out, kills +them with a club, and throws them into the gourds. When they are full, +he returns to the shore. + +Returning to Kukawa, Dr Barth found encamped outside the town a large +slave caravan. There were seven hundred and fifty slaves in the +possession of the merchants who went with it. Slaves were at that time +the principal export from Bornou. + +Soon after this Dr Overweg arrived, looking greatly fatigued and much +worse than when the doctor parted from him four months before. + +On the 29th of May, 1851, Dr Barth and Dr Overweg set out on a journey +to Adamawa, in the south. As they advanced their camels were objects of +great curiosity and wonder to the natives, that animal seldom getting +thus far south, as it will not bear the climate for any length of time. + +The country was generally level, with high conical mountains, separated +from each other, rising out of it. Though at first swampy, it became +woody and well-watered, in many parts densely inhabited, with numerous +villages, where even the Mahommedans have penetrated. + +At last Mount Alantika appeared in sight, eight thousand feet above the +plain. Near it flows the Binue, that long looked-for stream, supposed +to make its way westward to the Niger, and which it had been Barth's +great object to reach. There were no signs of human industry near the +river, as, during its floods, it inundates the country on both sides. +His feelings may be imagined when he stood at length on the banks of the +stream, which here flowed from east to west in a broad and majestic +course through an entirely open country, from which only here and there +detached mountains rose up in solitary grandeur. Not far-off another +river, the Faro, rushed forth, not much inferior to the principal river, +descending from the steep sides of the Alantika. + +On reaching Yola, the capital of the province of Adamawa, he was, +greatly to his disappointment, compelled by the governor to turn back. + +Slavery exists on an immense scale in this province, many private +individuals having more than a thousand slaves. The governor, Mohamet +Lowel, is said to receive five thousand every year in tribute, besides +horses and cattle. + +This is one of the finest districts in Central Africa, irrigated as it +is by numerous rivers besides the Binue and Faro, and being diversified +with hill and dale. Elephants were exceedingly plentiful, both black +and grey and yellow, and the rhinoceros is also met with in the river. +Barth was told that there lives in the river an animal resembling the +seal, which comes out at night and feeds on the fresh grass. + +His adventurous journey obtained the doctor so much fame at Kukawa that, +on his return, a party of horsemen galloped out to salute him, and led +him in procession to his house. Mr Overweg, who had in the meantime +been exploring Lake Chad in a boat, now rejoined him. His next +excursion was to Kanem, on the east of Lake Chad, for which he set out +on the 11th of September by the way of its northern shores. He had +received a valuable horse from the vizier, which was his companion for +the next three years. He was attended by two Arabs and a couple of +Fezzan lads he had taken into his service. He soon felt revived by the +fresh air of the country. The region through which he passed was +usually rich, partly forest and partly cultivated. + +On the 18th he was joined by Mr Overweg, who arrived accompanied by a +band of horsemen. The horsemen treated the natives with the utmost +cruelty, stealing their property wherever they went. One day, meeting +some cattle-breeders, they plundered them of their milk and of the very +vessels which contained it. On applying to Dr Barth for redress, he +was enabled not only to restore to them their vessels, but to make them +a few small presents. + +Descending from the high ground, they continued their course between the +sand-hills and a blue inlet of the lake to the south. Some way to the +right they caught sight of a whole herd of elephants, ranged in regular +array like an army of rational beings, slowly proceeding to the water. + +It had been supposed that Lake Chad is salt. This is not the case. The +natron or soda, which is procured in the neighbourhood, is found alone +in the ground. When an inundation reaches a basin filled with soda, the +water of course becomes impregnated. The soda, indeed, has very little +effect so long as the basin is deep, and does not begin to make itself +felt till the water becomes shallow. + +Shortly afterwards, passing a grove of mimosa, two of the horsemen who +had been in front came galloping back with loud cries. On approaching +the spot they saw a large snake hanging in a threatening attitude from +the branches of a tree. On seeing the strangers it tried to hide +itself, but after several balls had struck it, it fell down, and its +head was cut off. It measured eighteen feet seven inches in length, and +five inches in diameter. + +They now joined themselves to a party of Arabs, by whom they hoped to be +protected on their journey. The expedition was not without danger. One +night they were aroused by a terrible screaming and crying from the +women, and shouts of "Mount! mount!" Another band of freebooters had +attacked the camels, and, having put to flight two or three men and +killed a horseman, had driven off part of the herd. The robbers were +pursued and overtaken, when they gave up their booty. The lamentations +of the females for a man who had been slain sounded woefully through the +remainder of the night. + +Two days afterwards the Arabs were in great commotion, in consequence of +the most handsome among the female slaves, who composed part of the +spoil that was to be taken to the vizier, having made her escape during +the night. They were eagerly searching for her from dawn of day, but +could not find her. At length they discovered her necklace and clothes, +and the remains of her bones--evident proofs that she had fallen a prey +to the wild beasts. + +As they advanced eastward the situation of the Arab robbers became daily +more dangerous; nothing was thought of but to retrace their steps +westward. + +The doctor was lying in his tent suffering from fever, when the alarm +was given that the enemy had arrived within a short distance of the +camp. He heard firing, when Overweg, mounting his horse, galloped off, +calling on his friend to follow him. The doctor, while his servant was +saddling his horse, flung his bournous over himself, and, grasping his +pistols and gun, mounted and started off towards the west, ordering +Mahomet to cling fast to his horse's tail. Not a moment was to be lost, +as the enemy had begun to attack the east side of the camp. Soon +afterwards, however, he saw the Arab horsemen rallying to attack the +enemy, who had dispersed in order to collect the spoil, and, overtaking +Mr Overweg, informed him that the danger was over. + +On returning to the camp they found that their luggage and even their +tent had gone. The Arabs, however, pursuing the enemy, got back most of +their things. + +The natives again attacked the camp in the evening, but were beaten off. +Hearing, however, that a large body of Wadey horsemen were to join +their enemies, the Arabs retreated, and the doctor and his friends, +finding a caravan on its way to Kukawa, returned with it on the 25th of +November. + +After a rest of ten days the persevering travellers again set forth with +the sheikh and his vizier on an expedition against Mandara, the +principal object of which was to replenish their coffers and +slave-rooms, a secondary one to punish the prince of that small country, +who, protected by its mountains, had behaved in a very refractory +manner. The vizier treated the travellers with great courtesy, and +desired them to ride by his side. The army, which was of considerable +size, advanced in regular order. At first they amused themselves with +hunting. One day a giraffe was caught. The vizier was attended by +eight female slaves and horsemen, and the same number of led horses. +The unfortunate natives had to provide grain for the army wherever it +marched. They spent a day at a village where the troops had to lay in a +supply of corn, as they were about to pass the border region, between +the cities of the Mahommedans and those of the Pagan tribes, which, as +is generally the case in this part of the world, have been reduced to +desolation. The vizier made Mr Overweg a present of a small lion. On +a previous occasion he had given him a ferocious little tiger cat, which +though young was extremely fierce, and quite mastered the young lion. +They, however, soon died, in consequence of the continual swinging +motion they had to endure on the backs of the camels in the heat of the +day. + +Passing through a dense forest region, frequented by numerous elephants, +they arrived at Gabari, the northernmost of the Musgu villages, +surrounded by fields of native grain. The inhabitants had fled; for, +though nominally under the protection of the rulers of Bornou, they had +thought it prudent to take care of their own safety. Their village was +completely plundered, the soldiers thrashing out their grain and loading +their horses with it, while their goats, fowls, and articles of +furniture fell a prey to the greedy host. The village had presented an +appearance of comfort, and exhibited the industry of the inhabitants. +Its dwellings were built of clay; and each court-yard contained a group +of from three to six huts, according to the number of wives of the +owner. + +Continuing their march, on the 28th of December they reached the country +devoted to destruction. The country was pleasant in the extreme; +stubble-fields surrounded numerous groups of huts and wide-spreading +trees, on whose branches was stored up the nutritious grass of those +swampy grounds for a supply in the dry season. Broad, well-trodden +paths, lined by thick fences, wound along through the fields in every +direction. Near the village were regular sepulchres, covered in with +large well-rounded vaults, surrounded by an earthen urn. While the +doctor was contemplating this scene he found that the vizier and his +party had galloped on in advance. On looking round he saw only a few +Shooa horsemen. Following them, he soon found that he was entirely cut +off from the main body of the army. A scene of wild disorder presented +itself; single horsemen were roving about to and fro between the fences +of the villages; here a poor native, pursued by sanguinary foes, running +for his life in wild despair; there another dragged from his place of +refuge; while a third was seen stealing by, under cover of a fence, and +soon became a mark for numerous arrows and balls. A small troop of +Shooa horsemen were collected under the shade of a tree, trying to keep +together a drove of cattle which they had taken. Accompanying another +band, the doctor at length rejoined the vizier. News had just been +received that the pagans had broken through the line of march near the +weakest point, and that the rear had been dispersed. Had these poor +pagans been led on by experienced chieftains, they would have been able +in their dense forests, where cavalry is of little use, to do an immense +deal of damage to their cowardly invaders, and might easily have +dispersed them altogether. + +A large number of slaves had been caught, and in the evening a great +many more were brought in, altogether between five hundred to a +thousand. To the horror of the travellers, not less than one hundred +and seventy full-grown men were mercilessly slaughtered in cold blood, +the greater part of them being allowed to bleed to death, a leg having +been severed from the body. The unwarlike spirit and dilatory +proceedings of the army, large as it was, enabled the inhabitants of +other villages to make their escape. + +The village of Demmo was next to be attacked. On reaching it, however, +a large watercourse, two miles in width, appeared before them, across +which the natives made their escape. The scene on its banks was highly +interesting, and characteristic of the equatorial regions of Africa. +Instead of the supposed lofty range of the Moon, only a few isolated +mountains had been seen, and in place of a dry desolate plateau they had +found wide and extremely fertile plains, less than one thousand feet +above the level of the sea, and intersected by innumerable broad +water-courses. + +The village, which only a few moments before had been the abode of +comfort and happiness, was destroyed by fire and made desolate. +Slaughtered men, with their limbs severed from their bodies, were lying +about in all directions. + +Led by a treacherous Musgu chief, the army attacked other places, till +the river Loggun put a stop to their further advance. These unfortunate +Musgus are ugly-looking fellows. Only the chiefs wear clothing, +consisting merely of the skins of wild animals, thrown over their +shoulders. They adorn their heads with strange-looking feather caps, +and their bodies with red paint, staining their teeth of the same +colour. Their weapons are long spears, and formidable knives for +throwing at their foes, while they ride strong, active horses, without +saddles, guiding them by halters fastened round their muzzles. + +Having accomplished these mighty deeds, the army halted for two days, +for the purpose of distributing the slaves taken during the expedition. +The proceeding was accompanied by the most heart-rending scenes, caused +by the number of young children and even infants who were distributed, +many of the poor creatures being mercilessly torn from their mothers, +never to see them again. There were scarcely any full-grown men. + +Another expedition was undertaken by a part of the army, when, as they +reached the river, a dozen courageous natives were seen occupying a +small elevated island with steep banks, separated from the shore by a +narrow but deep channel. Here they set at defiance the countless host +of enemies, many of whom had firearms. Not one of the small band of +heroes was wounded, either the balls missed their aim, or else, striking +upon the wicker-work shields of the pagans, were unable to penetrate. +The doctor was urged to fire, and on his refusing to do so was abused by +the soldiers. + +The doctor and his companion returned to Kukaka on the 1st of February, +1852. + +On the 4th of March, Dr Barth again set out on a journey to Begharmi, a +considerable distance to the south-east of Lake Chad. His only +conveyance was his own horse and a she-camel for his luggage. The next +day Ovenveg, who had resolved to explore Lake Chad in a boat, parted +from him, and he proceeded on his hazardous expedition alone, his course +being to the south-east, along the shores of the lake. He passed +several towns in a state of decay. In that of Ngla the palace of the +governor was of immense size for Negroland. It had large and towering +clay walls, having the appearance of an enormous citadel. + +He was hospitably treated at the large town of Loggun. Here the river +of the same name, which falls into Lake Chad, is from three hundred and +fifty to four hundred yards across. About forty or fifty boats of +considerable size floated on the stream. He made an excursion on the +river, when he excited great admiration by firing at a crocodile, though +he did not kill the creature. The sultan formed so high an estimation +of the traveller, that he wished him to remain to assist him in fighting +his enemies, but the doctor, being anxious to proceed eastward, induced +him at length to let him take his departure. + +On the 16th of March he left Loggun to endeavour to penetrate into +regions never before trodden by European foot. He crossed the river in +a boat, while his horse and camel swam over. Passing through a dense +forest, he observed the footprints of the rhinoceros, an animal unheard +of in the western parts of Negroland. It is greatly feared by the +inhabitants. Little further in advance he suddenly beheld through the +branches of the trees the splendid sheet of a river far larger than that +of Loggun. All was silence, the pellucid surface undisturbed by the +slightest breeze; no vestige of human or animal life, with the exception +of two hippopotami which had been basking in the sun on shore, and now +plunged into the water. This was the real Shary, the great river of the +Kotoko, which with the river Loggun forms a large basin, giving to this +part of Negroland its characteristic feature. + +After some time a ferry-boat appeared, but the ferrymen declined +carrying the party over before they had informed their master. While +waiting for them, a large troop of pilgrims on their way to Mecca, +mostly from the western parts of Negroland, came up, and the doctor made +them a present of needles. The boatmen, returning, declared that the +chief of the village would not allow him to pass. He was, however, not +to be defeated, and, proceeding along the banks of the river, at length +found some ferrymen who did not hesitate to take him across. He was, +however, soon again stopped, and, after repeated attempts to push on, +was compelled to take up his residence at a place called Bakada. + +Here the white ants waged relentless war against his property. Though +he had placed his bed on the top of some poles, he found that they not +only had reached the summit, but had eaten through both the coarse mats, +finished a piece of his carpet, and destroyed other articles. + +The doctor had sent a messenger to the capital, but as he did not +return, he determined to set out. + +He had reached Mela, on the bank of the river, when, as he was seated in +his tent, the head man of the village arrived, followed by a number of +others, and he found himself suddenly seized and his feet placed in +irons, his property being carried off. He was conveyed to an open shed, +where he was guarded by two servants of the lieutenant-governor. His +servants were also seized, but ultimately set at liberty that they might +attend on him. He was liberated, however, the next day by the arrival +of Hacik, whose friendship he had formed at Bakada, and who promised +that he should without further difficulty visit the capital. + +On the 27th of April Mas-ena, the capital, appeared beyond a fine extent +of verdure. He had a good house provided for him, and numbers of people +came to visit him; among them was Faki Sambo, who was totally blind. He +had travelled much and was well versed in Arabic literature, having read +even portions of Aristotle and Plato, translated into Arabic. The +doctor had many interesting conversations with this wonderfully +well-informed man. + +The lieutenant-governor, however, grew suspicious of the traveller, as +did many of the people. He had a narrow escape by being called in to +visit a sick man, when, convinced that his illness was serious, he +refused to give any medicine. The man died a few days afterwards, and +his death would, had he done as he was asked, have been attributed by +the savage people to him. + +On the 6th of July the caravan from Fezzan arrived, bringing despatches +from Kukawa, sent out from England, authorising him to carry on the +objects of the expedition on a more extensive scale, while means were +placed at his disposal for doing so. It was hoped in England that he +and his companion would be able to cross the unknown region of +equatorial Africa and reach the south-east coast; but, as the state of +his health made this impossible, he was glad to find that Lord +Palmerston suggested he should endeavour to reach Timbuctoo. To this +plan, therefore, he turned his attention. He, however, found it very +difficult to leave the city. The sultan, after some time, gave him an +audience; that is to say, the doctor saw him, but the great man did not +allow himself to be seen. Earth presented his gifts, and received in +return, at his request, a supply of the manufactures of the country, +instead of a female slave and a white camel, which the sultan offered +him. He heard that the sultan entertained the fear that he might poison +or kill him by a charm, and that he had repeatedly consulted his learned +men, or councillors, how he should protect himself against his +witchcraft. + +After repeated delays, on the 10th of August he was allowed to take his +departure. The sultan had set his eyes on his horse, and, just as he +was starting, sent to ask him to sell it; but this he positively +declined doing, and no attempt was made to seize the animal. + +He reached Kukawa after an interesting journey, without a mishap, on the +21st of August. He found Mr Overweg very sickly. Unhappily, he +thought himself strong enough to go out shooting, and was so imprudent +as to go into deep water after water-fowl, and remain all the day +afterwards in his wet clothes. He was seized with a severe illness in +consequence, but believed that he should get better if removed to the +country home of their friend Fugo Ali. He here became much worse, and +in two days died. A grave was dug for him near the borders of the lake +in the exploration of which he had taken so much interest. + +Dejected at his lonely situation, and unwilling any longer to stay in a +place which had become intolerable to him, Barth determined to set out +as soon as possible on his journey towards the Niger. + + + +CHAPTER TWELVE. + +TRAVELS OF DR. BARTH CONCLUDED. + +BARTH SETS OUT FOR TIMBUCTOO--DETAINED AT KATSEENA--REACHES SAY, ON THE +NIGER--CROSSES RIVER--MEETS AN ARAB, WHO OFFERS TO ESCORT HIM--DISGUISED +AS AN ARAB--ENTERS BAMBARRA--SWAMPY COUNTRY--EMBARKS ON THE NIGER-- +VOYAGE UP THE RIVER TO KABARA--RICE TO TIMBUCTOO--ENTERS THE CITY--THE +SHEIKH EL BAKAY--COMPELLED TO REMAIN IN HIS HOUSE--TIMBUCTOO DESCRIBED-- +THE FANATICS THREATEN HIS LIFE--ACCOMPANIES THE SHEIKH INTO THE DESERT-- +RETURNS TO THE CITY--HEARS ABOUT MUNGO PARK--THE RIVER RISES--FOR FEAR +OF DISTURBANCES FROM THE FANATICS, GOES INTO THE DESERT AGAIN--SETS OUT +WITH THE SHEIKH TOWARDS KOUKA--LIONS AND HIPPOPOTAMI--REACHES SACKATOO-- +HEARS OF EXPEDITION UNDER DR. VOGEL--DANGERS OF JOURNEY--REACHES BUNDI-- +MEETS DR. VOGEL--REPAST, BUT NO WINE--WELL RECEIVED BY SHEIKH OMAR AT +KOUKA--DETAINED FOUR MONTHS--RETURNS WITH A CARAVAN TO TRIPOLI-- +DISCOVERY OF BINUE RIVER MOST IMPORTANT RESULT OF JOURNEY. + +On the 25th of November, 1852, all arrangements being made, Dr Barth +set out on his venturesome expedition to Timbuctoo, intending to proceed +first to the town of Say, on the banks of the Niger. He had parted on +friendly terms with the sheikh, who sent him two fine camels as a +present. He had as head servant his faithful Gatroni, who had gone to +Fezzan and had lately returned, five other freemen, and two slaves, +besides another personage, who acted as his broker, well accustomed to +travel in Negroland; but, being an Arab, the doctor only put confidence +in him as long as circumstances were propitious. + +He encamped, as was his custom on commencing a journey, only two miles +from the city. It was the coldest night he had experienced in +Negroland, the thermometer being only nine degrees above the +freezing-point. + +On the 25th of December he arrived at Zinder, the frontier town of +Bornou, built round and about masses of rock, which rose out of the +ground, the picturesqueness of the place being increased by groups of +date-palms. Water, which collects at short depths below the surface, +fertilises a number of tobacco-fields, and gives to the vegetation +around a very rich character. + +On the 5th of February, 1853, the party entered the town of Katseena, +where he laid in a supply of articles. Here they were detained for a +considerable time, as an expedition was setting out against the Fulbe, +and it would have been dangerous to proceed until it was known what +direction the hostile army would take. By the 25th of March, however, +he was ready to continue his journey, the governor himself having +arranged to accompany him for some days, as the whole country was +exposed to imminent danger, and, further on, a numerous escort was to +attend them. + +Interesting as his journey was, it is impossible to describe the various +places he visited or the adventures he met with. Day after day he +travelled on, sometimes detained for weeks and months together, at one +town or another, though he was never idle, always employing himself in +gaining information, or in studying the language of the district through +which he was to pass. + +On the 19th of June he was close to the Niger, and hoped that the next +day he might behold with his own eyes that great river of Western Africa +which has caused such immense curiosity in Europe, and the upper part of +the large eastern branch of which he had himself discovered. Elated +with such feelings, he set out early the next morning, and, after a +march of two hours through a rocky wilderness covered with dense bushes, +he obtained the first sight of the river, and in another hour reached +the place of embarkation, opposite the town of Say. Here he beheld, in +a noble, unbroken stream, the mighty Niger gliding along in a +north-north-east and south-south-west direction, though at this spot, +owing to being hemmed in by rocky banks, only about seven hundred yards +broad. It had been seen by Mungo Park flowing eastward, and it was +therefore, till the Landers descended it, supposed that it might +possibly make its way into some vast lake in Central Africa. On the +flatter shore opposite, a large town lay spread out, the low ramparts +and huts of which were picturesquely overtopped by numbers of slender +dum-palms. + +After waiting some time the boats he had sent for, which were about +forty feet in length and four to five in width, arrived. They were +formed by hollowing out two trunks of trees, which were sewn together in +the centre. His camels, horses, people, and luggage having crossed in +safety, he followed in the afternoon, intending to survey the course of +the river between the point where it has become well-known by the +labours of Mungo Park, Caillie, and the Landers. + +The language spoken here, the Songhay, differs materially from that with +which he was acquainted, and he therefore was less able to converse with +the people than he had been before. + +Quitting Say, he left the Niger behind him, or rather on his right-hand +side, proceeding north-west towards Timbuctoo. The country on this side +of the Niger is thickly inhabited, and he passed numerous towns and +villages on his way. + +At the village of Namantugu he met an Arab from the west, called +Wallati, who undertook to escort him safely to the town of Timbuctoo. +He was a handsome fellow. His dress consisted of a long black gown, +with a black shawl wound round his head, and he moved along at a solemn +pace; he reminded the doctor of the servants of the Inquisition. + +The inhabitants of this place were clothed in the purest white, even the +little children wearing round their heads turbans composed of strips of +white cotton. + +They had now entered a region full of water, the soil presenting very +little inclination to afford it the means of flowing off. + +He was detained some time in the populous town of Dore, and on the 21st +of July set out on the most dangerous stage of his journey to Timbuctoo. +Many large sheets of water had to be crossed, and occasionally swamps, +which greatly impeded their progress. It was the rainy season, and he +was thus at times unable to proceed. + +As he had now to traverse the province of Dellah, which is ruled by a +governor subject to the fanatical chief of Mas-ena, who would never +allow a Christian to visit his territory, the doctor was obliged to +assume the character of an Arab. + +At the town of Bambarra, situated among the creeks and back-waters of +the Niger, he met an Arab native of Tisit, who had made the pilgrimage +to Mecca. The stranger cross-questioned him very narrowly about the +place from which he came, and the doctor had reason to fear he should be +discovered. However, the man's whole appearance inspired him with such +confidence that he felt sure that he might be trusted. + +On the 27th of August the doctor set out on his last journey by land, in +order to reach Sarawano, the place where he was to embark on the river. + +It is only during the rainy season that there is communication by water +to Timbuctoo, which lies directly north from this place. + +He here engaged a boat with two cabins of matting, one in the prow and +the other in the stern. She was built of planks sewn together in a very +bungling manner. + +A labyrinth of creeks, back-waters, and channels spreads over the whole +of this country, affording water-communication in all directions. + +On the 1st of September the voyage commenced, and the doctor naturally +felt in high spirits when he found himself floating on the river which +was to carry him all, the way to the harbour of Timbuctoo. The water +was greatly obstructed by long grass, which made rowing impossible, and +the boat was therefore impelled by poles, generally moving at the rate +of between two and three miles an hour. At night, a storm threatening, +the boat was moored in a wide grassy creek; but the numerous swarms of +mosquitoes molested them greatly during the night. The barking sounds +of some animals were heard, which the doctor found proceeded from young +crocodiles. + +On the 2nd of September the boatmen made use of their oars, sometimes +passing broad open spaces, and again getting into narrow channels. + +Barth and his attendants were tolerably well supplied with fish, which +they either purchased or which were caught by the boatmen with a +harpoon. + +They at last entered a large confluent of the Niger, and glided +pleasantly along, a short distance from the northern bank, which was +thickly clothed with trees, till at length, darkness approaching, they +crossed, fully a thousand yards, to the opposite bank, where the vessel +was moored near a village. Most of the party slept on shore, but others +made themselves comfortable in the boat and on the top of the matting +which formed the cabins. + +The next day, they entered the mighty stream, along which they +proceeded, here running from the west to the east. It was at this spot +about a mile across, and its magnitude and solemn magnificence, as the +new-moon rose before them, with with the summer lightning at times +breaking through the evening sky, inspired his servants with awe and +alarm, while he stood on the roof, looking out for the city, the great +object of his journey. + +Leaving the Niger and passing along a series of channels, the doctor +landed at the village of Kabara on the 5th of September. Here he took +up his quarters in a comfortable house while he despatched messengers to +the city. On their return, accompanied by the brother of the Sheikh El +Bakay, Sidi Alawate (who turned out a great rogue and cheated him in +every way), with several followers, on the 7th of September his +cavalcade set out for Timbuctoo. + +The short distance was soon traversed, the doctor riding on ahead to +avoid the questions of those who met the party, as, had they felt the +slightest suspicion with regard to his character, they might have +prevented his entering the town, and thus endangered his life. +Unfortunately he encountered a man who addressed him in Turkish, a +language he had almost forgotten, and he had some difficulty in making a +reply. + +Traversing the rubbish accumulated round the clay walls of the city, and +leaving on one side a row of dirty reed huts which encompassed the +place, he entered some narrow streets and lanes which scarcely allowed +two horses to proceed abreast. He was not a little surprised at the +populous and wealthy character which this quarter of the town exhibited, +many of the houses rising to the height of two stories, their _facades_ +evincing even an attempt at architecture and adornment. + +On passing the house of the Sheikh El Bakay, he was desired to fire a +pistol to do him honour, but, as his arms were loaded with ball, he +declined doing this, and soon reached the house destined for his +residence, thankful to find himself safely in his new quarters. + +Timbuctoo has never been the real capital of a negro empire, but, on +account of its becoming the seat of Mahommedan learning and worship, it +enjoyed greater respect than Gogo, which was the real capital; and, on +account of its greater proximity to Morocco, the little commerce which +remained in that distracted region was here concentrated. It has, +however, undergone many changes during the fearful convulsions which +constantly occur in that region. + +During the absence of the sheikh the doctor found it prudent to remain +within the walls of his house, though he received visits from numerous +people. From the flat roof of his house he was, however, able to enjoy +air and exercise, and at the same time obtained a view of what was going +on in the city. For some time he suffered severely from fever, while +rain and thunder-storms occurred nearly _every_ day. + +He here heard much about Major Laing, who, after being almost killed by +the Tawarek, was kindly received in the camp of the sheikh's father. He +tried to obtain the major's papers, but found that they had all been +destroyed. He was much pleased with the Sheikh El Bakay, who treated +him with real kindness, and regretted that he could not keep his +troublesome brother Alawate in order. On one occasion he made the +doctor fire off his six-barrelled pistol, in front of his house, before +a numerous assemblage of people. This excited great astonishment, and +exercised much influence upon his future safety, as it made the people +believe that he had arms all over his person, and could fire as many +times as he liked. + +The city of Timbuctoo is about three miles in circumference. The town +is laid out partly in rectangular, partly in winding streets, covered +with hard sand and gravel. Besides two market-places there are few open +areas. There are about nine hundred and eighty clay houses, and a +couple of hundred conical huts, of matting mostly, on the outskirts. +Three large mosques and three smaller ones are the only places of +worship, there being no other public buildings of any size. It is +divided into quarters, one of which is especially inhabited by +Mahommedans, though the larger number of the people profess to have +faith in the Prophet. There are about thirteen thousand settled +inhabitants, and, during the time of the greatest traffic, from five to +ten thousand people visit the city. + +A fanatical party, hearing that a Christian had come to the place, made +various attempts to destroy him. By the advice of his kind protector, +the sheikh, he determined to leave the city with him, and take up his +residence in the desert. As he rode forth on his white mare, the +natives thronged the streets in order to get a glance at the Christian +stranger. He was thankful to find himself once more in the fresh air of +the desert. Here he passed several days in the most quiet and retired +manner, much recovering his health. + +He then paid another visit to Timbuctoo, and was able to explore the +city and the great mosque, Jingere-Ber, which made a great impression on +his mind by its stately appearance. He had again, however, to return to +the camp of El Bakay, where the perils of his position kept increasing, +and he in vain urged his dilatory protector to enable him to make his +escape. His enemies were legion--fresh parties arriving constantly to +seize him, dead or alive. A band of them actually made a descent on the +camp, but were driven back by the bold front his friends exhibited. + +He had an interesting visit from an Arab chief, who was acquainted with +Mungo Park, and gave him a full account of the way in which he had been +attacked by the Tawarek as he descended the great river in his boat. + +On the 12th of December Barth heard that Ali, a fanatical chief of the +Berabish, had arrived with a large body of followers, to take his life. +Suddenly, however, Ali fell ill and died, and the people believed that +it was a judgment on him, as his father had killed Major Laing, whose +son it was supposed the doctor was. Many of the Berabish, indeed, came +to El Bakay to beg his pardon and to obtain his blessing, saying that +they would no longer impede the stranger's departure. + +The river had gradually been rising, and on the 25th of December the +water entered the wells situated to the south of the town. + +On the 4th of January, 1854, the first boat from Kabara reached +Timbuctoo, and other boats arriving laden with corn, the supply shortly +became plentiful and cheap. + +The inundation attained its greatest height towards the end of January, +an event possessing almost the same importance as that of the rising of +the Nile. + +The city depends entirely upon commerce, the only manufactures being +confined to the art of the blacksmith and a little leather-work. + +Another year, 1854, of the persevering traveller's stay in Negroland, +began with the fervent prayer that he might return home before the end +of it. His hopes were raised that he might soon be able to set off. +Numberless disappointments, however, occurred. + +On the 17th of March, by the advice of his friends, he returned to the +camp, such a step being deemed essential for the security of the town +and their own personal interests. He was here kept till the 19th of +April, and even then his friend the Sheikh El Bakay, could not overcome +his habitual custom of taking matters easy, and the sun was already high +in the sky and very hot before the camels were loaded and the caravan +began to move. + +In consequence of the progress the French were making in Algiers at this +time, much suspicion was attached to the doctor, as the people could not +but think that his journey to the country had some connection with them. +Even after this he was detained till the 17th of May, at an encampment +amidst swamps, when at last the news arrived that the sheikh, who had +left them, had gone on ahead, and all was joy and excitement. + +On overtaking the sheikh, who, as he awoke from his slumbers, received +the doctor with a gentle smile, despatches were delivered to him from +England. One from Lord John Russell expressed the warmest interest in +his proceedings, and others informed him that Dr Vogel, with two +sergeants, had set out to join him, and that he would probably meet them +in Bornou. He was much surprised that he received no news from his +friend the vizier, as the parcel had evidently come by way of Bornou-- +little aware, at the time, of the murder of that friendly officer. + +The following day they passed through a dense forest, said to be +frequented by lions. Keeping along the course of the river, which was +here very shallow, crocodiles were seen in abundance, and anxiety was +felt for the horses, which were pasturing on the fine rank grass at its +borders. + +Owing to the dilatory character of his friend the sheikh, the progress +was very slow, but he was thus enabled to enter into conversation with +the natives, and obtained much information. + +On his way he visited Gogo, situated at the southern limits of the Great +Desert, one portion on the banks of the river, and another on an island, +that to the east having been inhabited by the Mahommedans, the other by +idolators. He found the place, however, in a most ruinous condition, +even the mosque itself being in a dilapidated state. Indeed, the once +great city of Negroland now consists only of from three to four hundred +huts, grouped in separate clusters and surrounded by heaps of rubbish, +which indicated its former site. Here it is believed that Mungo Park +was buried. + +While encamped at a place called Borno, close to the banks of the river, +a number of hippopotami made their appearance, snorting fiercely at +being disturbed, and put their horses to flight. At times they +interrupted the intercourse between the banks, and in the evening became +still more noisy, when they wanted to come out for their usual feed. + +He was fortunate in having so able a protector as the Sheikh El Bakay, +who, in consequence of his supposed sacred character, was treated with +honour whenever he went. + +After visiting a number of places, both on the banks and eastward of it, +he reached, on the 24th of August, Sackotoo. Here he received +intelligence of the arrival of five Christians, with a train of forty +camels, at Kukawa, and had little doubt that it was the expedition under +Dr Vogel. + +On the 14th of October he arrived in Kano, where he found everything +prepared for his reception. He here received the intelligence that +Sheikh Omar, of Kukawa, had been dethroned, his vizier slain, and that +in a fierce battle a number of his other friends had fallen. He had +made up his mind, therefore, to proceed to Aire, instead of returning to +Bornou; but, subsequently hearing that Omar had been again installed, he +kept to his former determination. + +At length, escaping from greedy rulers, hostile populations, wild +beasts, swamps, rains and fevers, he at length reached Bundi, near +Kouka, on the 30th of November. + +He had again left that place, when, riding through the forest with his +head servant, he saw advancing towards him on horseback a young man, of +fair complexion, dressed in a _tobe_, with a white turban, and +accompanied by two or three blacks, also on horseback. The stranger was +Dr Vogel, who dashed forward, when the two travellers gave each other a +hearty reception on horseback. Dismounting in the forest, they unpacked +their provisions and sat down to enjoy a social repast, Barth, however, +being greatly disappointed that not a bottle of wine, for which he had +an extraordinary longing, had been brought. + +Vogel, with Corporal Church and Private Macguire, had come out to +strengthen the expedition and to follow up Barth's discoveries. Vogel +succumbed to the climate about a year afterwards, on a journey to +Adamawa. After his death Macguire was killed on his way home, and +Church returned with Dr Barth. + +While Vogel pursued his journey to Zinda, Barth proceeded on to Kukawa. +He found the village of Kaleemri, which, on his outward journey, was so +cheerful and industrious, now a scene of desolation--a few scattered +huts being all at present to be seen. Such is, unhappily, the fate of +numerous towns and villages in this distracted country. + +His old friend, the Sheikh Omar, who had been reinstated, sent out a +body of horsemen to give him an honourable reception on his return to +Kukawa. Here he had to remain four months, greatly troubled by +financial difficulties, and finding that a considerable portion of his +property had been stolen by the rascality of one of his servants. His +health, too, was greatly shattered. + +It was not till the 4th of May that, in company with a Fezzan merchant, +Kolo, he commenced his return journey, with a small caravan, towards +Tripoli. At Barruwa they laid in a supply of dry, ill-smelling fish, +which constitutes the most useful article of exchange in the Tebu +country. The region to his right, over which he had previously passed, +was now entirely covered with water from the overflowing of the Chad, +which had submerged several villages. + +He met with no unusual adventures during his long, tedious journey +northward across the desert. + +At Mourzouk he had the pleasure of meeting Mr Frederick Warrington. He +here remained six days, discharging some of his servants, and among them +his faithful Gatroni. + +Some tribes of Arabs had here rebelled against the Turks, and he was in +some danger while in their hands. Escaping, however, from them, he +reached Tripoli in the middle of August, and, embarking at the end of +four days, arrived safely, on the 6th of September, in London. + +Although much of the country he had passed over was already known, no +previous African traveller more successfully encountered and overcame +the difficulties and dangers of a journey through that region. + +The most important result of his adventurous journey was the discovery +of a large river, hitherto unknown, falling into the Chad from the +south, and of the still larger affluent of the Quorra, the mighty Binue, +which, rising in the far-off centre of the continent, flows through the +province of Adamawa. + +The courage and perseverance of Dr Barth, while for five years +travelling many thousand miles, amidst hostile and savage tribes, in an +enervating climate, frequently with unwholesome or insufficient food, +having ever to keep his energies on the stretch to guard himself from +the attacks of open foes or the treachery of pretended friends, have +gained for him the admiration of all who read his travels, and place him +among the first of African travellers. + + + +CHAPTER THIRTEEN. + +CAPTAIN SPEKE'S DISCOVERIES OF THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. + +SPEKE'S PREVIOUS CAREER--JOINS AN EXPEDITION TO THE SOMALI COUNTRY--THE +SOMALI--ARRIVE AT BERBERA--ATTACKED BY ROBBERS--HIS ESCAPE AND RETURN TO +ADEN, AND FINALLY TO ENGLAND--JOINS CAPTAIN BURTON IN AN EXPEDITION TO +THE MOUNTAINS OF THE MOON--SETS OUT FOR BOMBAY, AND AFTERWARDS TO +ZANZIBAR--ENGAGE SHEIKH SAID AND THEIR ESCORT--CROSS TO KAOLE--ARRIVE AT +CAZE, AND RECEIVED BY THE ARAB MERCHANTS--PORTERS DESERT--ILLNESS OF +CAPTAIN BURTON, AND CARRIED TO ZIMBILI--SETS OUT WITH FRESH PORTERS--A +SIGHT OF THE TANGANYIKA LAKE--THE MOUNTAINS OF THE MOON--NEARLY BLIND-- +UP THE LAKE TO UJIJI--ARRIVE AT KAWELE--THEIR JOURNEY ON THE LAKE +CONTINUED--AN ALARM--CAMP AT NIGHT--SHELLS--A STORM--ARRIVE AT SULTAN +CASANGA'S TERRITORY--THE PEOPLE--ARRIVE AT THE FISH MARKET OF KABIZIA--A +SINGA--CROSS TO KASENGE--RECEPTION--THE CHIEF DESCRIBED--THE RESULTS OF +SLAVERY--HEARS OF A LARGE RIVER--CANNOT OBTAIN A BOAT--RETURNS TO +UJIJI--SETS OUT TO EXPLORE A RIVER THAT FALLS INTO THE LAKE--TRICKS OF +THE PADDLERS--RETURNS TO UJIJI--HELP ARRIVES--RETURNS TO CAZE--SETS OUT +TO EXPLORE THE COUNTRY IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE NYANZA LAKE--TRICKS +OF HIS ESCORT--VILLAGES DESCRIBED--DETAINED BY A SULTANA--THE RECEPTION +SHE GIVES SPEKE--ILLNESS IN THE CARAVAN--INON--LEAVING ISAMIRO, THE +NYANZA APPEARS IN SIGHT--THE SCENE--HE CALLED THE LAKE VICTORIA NYANZA-- +DESCENDS TO MUANZA--THE SOURCE OF THE NILE!--RETURN JOURNEY, AND ARRIVES +AT CAZE--ARRIVES WITH CAPTAIN BURTON IN ENGLAND. + +Captain, then Lieutenant, John Hanning Speke, the son of a gentleman of +property in England, was an officer in the Indian army, and had taken +part under Lord Gough in the great battles of Ramnugger, Chillianwalla, +and others. He had, at intervals during leave, travelled in the +Himalaya Mountains, as well as through other parts of India and in +Thibet, for the purpose of collecting specimens of the fauna of those +regions to form a museum in his father's house. While thus occupied, he +formed the design of traversing Africa as soon as he could obtain +furlough, visiting the Mountains of the Moon and descending the Nile +with the same object in view. + +At the end of ten years' service, on obtaining furlough, hearing that an +expedition was to be sent by the Indian Government, under the command of +Lieutenant Burton, to explore the Somali country, a large tract lying +due south of Aden, and separated from the Arabian coast by the Gulf of +Aden, he offered his services, and was accepted. Two other Indian +officers, Lieutenants Stroyan and Heme, also joined the expedition. + +The Somali are Mahommedans, descendants of Arabs who have intermarried +with negroes. They are a savage, treacherous race, noted for their +cheating and lying propensities; in figure tall, slender, light, and +agile, scarcely darker than Arabs, with thin lips and noses, but woolly +heads like negroes. Their ancestors, having taken possession of the +country, drove out its former Christian inhabitants, who retreated +northward. + +Caravans, however, pass through their country to their only port and +chief market, Berbera, which at the time of the fair is crowded with +people, though entirely deserted for the rest of the year. + +It was proposed that the expedition should follow the route of these +caravans, or accompany one of them, and thus penetrate through the +country, into the interior. + +Considerable time was spent in making excursions for short distances, +during which Lieutenant Speke shot a large number of wild animals; but +unfortunately the _abban_, or petty chief, who undertook to be his +protector and guide, proved to be a great rascal, and cheated and +deceived him in every possible way. + +The Somali are keen and cunning sportsmen, and have various methods of +killing elephants, ostriches, and gazelles. They fearlessly attack an +elephant, on foot, one man only being mounted on a horse, who gallops in +front, and while the animal pursues him, the others rush in and +hamstring him with their knives. Ostriches are caught by throwing down +poison at the spots where they feed. The Somali also hunt them, on the +backs of their hardy little ponies. The ostrich is a shy bird, and is +so blind at night that it cannot feed. A Somali, knowing this, +providing himself with provisions for two or three days, sets off in +search of them; showing himself to the ostriches, he is discovered, but +takes care to keep at a distance. They stalk off, and he follows at the +same rate, but never approaches sufficiently near to scare them. At +night the birds, unable to see, stop, but cannot feed. He, meantime, +rests and feeds with his pony, resuming the chase the next day. He +follows the birds in the same way as at first, they from constant +fasting becoming weaker, till after the second or third day he is able +to ride in among them and knock them down in succession. + +The party had at length secured, after considerable trouble, the camels +and horses they required, and were encamped at Berbera, which was +completely deserted by its inhabitants, when they were surprised at +night by a large band of robbers. Lieutenant Stroyan was killed and +Lieutenant Speke was made prisoner and desperately wounded, but, +springing to his feet just as a robber was about to run him through with +his spear, he knocked over his assailant with his hands, though bound +together, and made his escape to the sea-shore, to which the rest of the +party had already fled. They were here taken on board a vessel, which +had providentially put in the day before, and in her returned to Aden. + +Although his first expedition had terminated so disastrously, on his +arrival in England Lieutenant Speke again volunteered to accompany +Lieutenant Burton on an expedition to survey that part of the centre of +Africa, in the neighbourhood of the Mountains of the Moon, where an +enormous lake was supposed to exist, equal in size to the Caspian Sea. + +Returning to Bombay, Lieutenant Speke and Lieutenant Burton obtained +their outfit, and set sail on the 3rd of December, 1856, for Zanzibar, +on board the HEIC sloop of war, "Elphinstone." + +At Zanzibar they were warmly welcomed by the consul, Colonel Hamerton, +and well received by the Sultan Majid, who, from his intelligence and +good disposition, appeared likely to be a favourite with his people. + +As they had arrived during the dry season, they were unable to commence +their journey, and some time was spent in visiting different parts of +the coast. + +Their intention was to proceed to Ujiji, on the shores of Lake +Tanganyika, which was then supposed to be the southern end of the great +central lake. They engaged as their _kafila bashi_, or head of their +caravan, a well-disposed man, Sheikh Said. A body of the sultan's +Belooch soldiers, under a _jemadar_, or officer, and a party of slaves +armed with muskets, formed their escort. Besides them, they had their +private servants, Valentine and Gaetano, Goa men, who spoke Hindostanee, +and a clever little liberated black slave, Bombay by name, who had been +captured from his native place, Uhiyou, to the east of Lake Nyanza, and +sold to an Arab merchant, by whom he was taken to India. Having served +this master for several years, on his death he obtained his liberation, +and made his way to Zanzibar. Here he took service in the army of the +sultan, and was among those engaged by Lieutenant Speke. He was a +remarkably quick, clever, honest little fellow, and in most instances +could thoroughly be trusted. + +Crossing to Kaole, on the mainland, on the 16th of June, 1857, they were +detained there collecting baggage animals. The first five hundred miles +of their journey to Caze, a place in the centre of Unyamuezi, the Land +of the Moon, was performed with comparative ease, and they were +subjected only to annoyances from the savage people and the grasping +chiefs on the way. + +Caze is occupied by Arab merchants as a central trading depot, and is +rapidly increasing. It was supposed that Ujiji would be found much of +the same character. Here they arrived on the 7th of November, 1857. +They were kindly received by the Arab merchants, especially by Sheikh +Snay, and had a house appropriated to them. + +The houses of the Weezee, the people among whom they were living, are +built of mud, generally with flat tops: this description is called a +_tembe_. Others, however, are in the form of haystacks, and are +constructed with great care; the door is very small, so that only one +person can enter at a time. The villages are surrounded with a strong +fence, having taller stakes on each side of the entrance, which are +decorated either with blocks of wood or the skulls of those who have +been put to death. + +The flat-roofed houses are built round a large court, the outer walls +serving as the walls of the villages, all the doors opening into the +interior. + +Some time was usefully spent in gaining information from the Arabs and +others, who told them that the Nyanza was a separate lake to that of +Ujiji, and that from the latter a river ran out to the northward-- +though, at first, they had stated that it ran into it. Besides this +they heard that vessels frequented some waters to the north of the +equator--a fact of which Speke had heard when travelling in the Somali +country. + +Their porters, who had come from this part of the country, all left +them, and they found the greatest difficulty in procuring others. + +Captain Burton here fell dangerously ill, and, as he believed that he +should die unless he could be moved, his companion had him carried to +Zimbili, where, by degrees, he recovered. At length a sufficient number +of porters being obtained, they broke ground on the 10th of January, +1858. + +Proceeding due west about one hundred and fifty miles, when moving over +the brow of a hill, they came in sight of the lovely Tanganyika lake, +which could be seen in all its glory by everybody but Lieutenant Speke, +who was suffering from inflammation of the eyes, caught by sleeping on +the ground while his system was reduced by fevers and the influence of +the vertical sun. It had brought on almost total blindness, and every +object before him appeared clouded by a misty veil. + +They were now standing on the eastern horn of a large, crescent-shaped +mass of mountains, overhanging the northern half of the lake. These +mountains Speke supposed to be the true Mountains of the Moon. + +Reaching the margin of the lake, a canoe was hired to carry them to +Ujiji, the chief place on its shores, frequented by Arabs. The lake at +which they now arrived was supposed to be three hundred and eighty miles +long, and thirty to forty broad. Its waters are sweet and abound with +fine fish. The sides of the lake are thickly inhabited by numerous +negro tribes, among whom are the Wabembe cannibals, into whose territory +the Arabs dare not venture. + +The explorers took up their abode in the deserted house of an Arab +merchant, at a small village called Kawele; but, unfortunately, the +chief of the place, Kannina, was a tyrannical extortioner, and caused +them much trouble. They wished to engage an Arab dhow for navigating +the lake, sufficiently large to carry provisions and to resist hostile +attacks, but could only obtain a canoe. It was long and narrow, +hollowed-out of the trunk of a single tree. She carried Bombay, +Gaetano, two Belooch soldiers, and a captain, with twenty stark-naked +savage sailors. In this Speke set out on the 3rd of March, 1858, while +Burton, too sick to move, remained at Ujiji. Speke and his attendants +had moved but a short distance along the shore, when a storm came on, +and they had to camp till the afternoon of the 5th, when all got on +board. + +To pack so many men together was no easy matter. Speke had his bedding +amidships, spread on reeds; the cook and bailsman sat facing him, and +Bombay and one Belooch behind him. Beyond them, in couples, were the +crew, the captain taking post in the bows. The seventeen paddles dashed +off with vigour. Steering southwards, they passed the mouth of the +Ruche river. They paddled on all night, and after dawn landed in a +secluded nook for breakfast. All were busily occupied. Gaetano dipped +his cooking-pot in the sea for water, greatly to the annoyance of the +natives, who declared that the dregs from it would excite the appetites +of the crocodiles, who would be sure to follow the boat. They have as +great an aversion to the crocodile as English seamen have to a shark. + +Suddenly there was a cry that foes were coming. All, jumping up, rushed +to the boat, some seizing one thing, some another, the greater number +being left on the ground. A breathless silence followed; then one +jumped on shore to secure a pot, and then another, and, gaining courage, +they searched around, crawling cautiously in the bush, others stealthily +moving along, till at last a single man was pounced upon, with an arrow +poised in hand. He was one of eight or ten men of a tribe whom they +declared to be a rough, lawless set of marauders. They therefore broke +his bow and arrows, and, though some of the crew proposed taking his +life, he was allowed to go. The sailors, on their return, each vaunted +the part he had taken in the exploit, boasting as though a mighty battle +had been won. + +They passed along a border of aquatic reeds, tenanted by crocodiles and +hippopotami, the latter staring, grunting, and snorting, as if vexed at +the intrusion on their privacy. Many parts of the shore were desolate, +the result of slave-hunting and cattle-lifting parties. + +"At night Speke's tent is pitched; the men build huts for themselves +with boughs, covering the top with grass, two men at the most occupying +a hut. When it rains they are covered by their mats, but, as they are +all stark-naked, the rain can do them no harm. + +"Interesting shells, unknown to the conchological world, are picked up, +numbers of which are lying on the pebbly beach. + +"They are delayed again by another storm. The superstitious captain +will answer no questions, for fear of offending the _ugaga_, or church, +whilst at sea; he dreads especially to talk of places of departure and +arrival, for fear ill luck should overtake them. + +"Fourteen hours are occupied in crossing the lake, when they reach a +group of islands belonging to Sultan Casanga. The sailors and his +people fraternise, and enjoy a day of rest and idleness. At night they +are attacked by a host of small black-beetles, one of which gets into +Speke's ear and causes him fearful pain, biting its way in, and by no +means can he extract it. It, however, acts as a counter-irritant, and +draws away the inflammation from his eyes. + +"The population of the neighbouring shore is considerable, the +inhabitants living in mushroom huts, and cultivating manioc, sweet +potato, and maize, and various vegetables. The people dress in +monkey-skins, the animals' heads hanging in front and the tails +depending below. They are very inquisitive, and, by their jabberings +and pointings, incessantly, want Speke to show everything he possesses. + +"He gets away the next day, and reaches a fish market, in the little +island of Kabizia, in time to breakfast on a large, black-backed, +scaleless monster, the _singa_. The sailors considering it delicious, +are disinclined to move on. + +"Again detained by a high wind, they cross, at noon on the 11th, to +Kasenge, where Sheikh Hamer, an Arab merchant, receives Speke with warm +and generous hospitality. His house is built with good, substantial +walls of mud, and roofed with rafters and brushwood, the rooms being +conveniently partitioned off to separate his wife and other belongings, +with an ante-room for general business. His object in coming to the +remote district is to purchase ivory, slaves, and other commodities. He +is the owner of the dhow which Speke is anxious to obtain; but though he +professes his readiness to lend it, he makes numberless excuses, and +finally Speke has to continue his voyage in his small canoe. + +"Slavery is the curse of this beautiful region. Here for a loin-cloth +or two a mother offers eagerly to sell one of her offspring and deliver +it into perpetual bondage to his Belooch soldiers. Whole villages are +destroyed, in the most remorseless manner, by the slave-hunters to +obtain their victims. The chiefs of the interior are as fond of gain as +those on the coast, and this sets one against the other, for the sake of +obtaining slaves to sell. + +"From Hamed Speke learns that a large river runs from the Mountains of +the Moon into the northern end of the lake. + +"On the 13th the dhow comes in, laden with cows, goats, oil, and _ghee_; +but, though Speke offers five hundred dollars for her hire, the Arab +merchant still refuses to lend her. + +"On the 27th Speke commences his return voyage, and arrives on the 31st +at Ujiji. + +"Captain Burton is somewhat recovered, and, though unfit to travel, +insists on starting in the canoe to explore the head of the lake--the +chief, Kannina, offering to accompany them. Their object is to examine +the river which is said to fall into it. They start in two canoes, the +chief and Captain Burton being in the largest. In eight days they +arrive at Uvira. The chief, however, will go no further, knowing that +the savages of the Warundi are his enemies. He confirms the statement +that the Rusizi River runs into the lake. + +"The black naked crews are never tired of testing their respective +strengths. They paddle away, dashing up the water whenever they succeed +in coming near each other, and delighting in drenching the travellers +with the spray. Their great pleasure appears in torturing others, with +impunity to themselves. They, however, wear mantles of goat-skins in +dry weather, but, as soon as rain comes on, they wrap them up, and place +them in their loads, standing meantime trembling like dogs which have +just emerged from the water. + +"In no part of Africa have they seen such splendid vegetation as covers +this basin from the mountain-tops to the shores." + +On returning to Ujiji, Speke wished to make a further survey of the +lake, but was overruled by Captain Burton, who considered that their +means were running short; indeed, had not an Arab merchant arrived, +bringing supplies, they would have been placed in an awkward position. +This timely supply was one of the many pieces of good fortune which +befell them on their journey. Help had always reached them when they +most required it. + +Captain Burton, being too ill to walk, was carried in a hammock, and, +setting out, they returned safely to Caze. + +They were here again received by their friend, Sheikh Snay, who gave +Speke an account of his journey to the Nyanza Lake. His statements were +corroborated by a Hindoo merchant called Musa, who gave him also a +description of the country northward of the line, and of the rivers +which flowed out of the lake. + +Eager to explore the country, Speke arranged to set off, leaving Captain +Burton at Caze. Sheikh Snay, however, refused to accompany him, and he +had in consequence some difficulty in arranging with the Belooch guard. + +On the 9th of July, 1858, he was able to start his caravan, consisting +of twenty porters, ten Beloochs, and his servants. The Beloochs were, +from the first, sulky and difficult to manage, while the _pagazis_, or +porters, played all sorts of tricks, sometimes leaving their loads and +running off to amuse themselves, and in the evening they would dance and +sing songs composed for the occasion, introducing everybody's name, and +especially Mzimza, the wise or white man, ending with the prevailing +word, among these curly-headed bipeds, of "_Grub! grub! grub_!" + +The Weezee villages are built in the form of a large hollow square, the +outer wall of which serves for the backs of the huts; another wall forms +the front, and the intermediate space is partitioned off by interior +earthen walls. The roofs are flat, and on them are kept firewood, +grain, pumpkins, and vegetables. Each apartment contains a family, with +their poultry and cooking utensils; some, however, are devoted +exclusively to goats and cows. + +They passed through forests of considerate size; caravans from the north +were also met with. At one place the country was found to be governed +by a sultana, the only one they met with in their travels. She did her +utmost to detain Speke, not allowing him an interview till the next day. +On paying the lady a visit, he was received by an ugly, dirtily-garbed +old woman, though with a smiling countenance, who, at his request, +furnished him eggs and milk. At length the sultana appeared--an old +dame with a short, squat figure, a nose flabby at the end, and eyes +destitute of brows or lashes, but blessed with a smiling face. Her +dress consisted of an old _barsati_, dirtier even than her maid's. Her +fingers were covered with rings of copper wire, and her legs staggered +under an immense accumulation of anklets, made of brass-wire wound round +an elephant's tail or that of a zebra. On her arms were solid brass +rings, and from other wire bracelets depended a variety of brazen, horn, +and ivory ornaments. + +Squatting by his side, the sultana, after shaking hands, felt Speke all +over, wondering at his dress. She insisted on his accepting a bullock; +but, anxious to be off, he declined waiting for it. She at last +consented to send it after him by some of his porters, who were to +remain for the purpose. + +He was constantly detained by the laziness of his _ftagazis_, who, when +getting into a rich country, preferred eating the meat, eggs, and +vegetables they could obtain. + +He unfortunately had only white beads with him, which which were not the +fashion: with coloured beads he could have purchased provisions at a +much cheaper rate. Had the people also been addicted to wearing cloth, +instead of decorating themselves with beads, he would with his cloth +have been able to make his purchases much more advantageously. As the +country is overstocked with common beads, it is far more economical to +obtain high-priced than low-priced beads when preparing to start from +Zanzibar. + +As warfare was going on, it was necessary to make a tortuous track to +avoid the combatants. + +The _jemadar_ and two Beloochs complained of sickness and declared they +could not march, and poor Gaetano fell ill and hid himself in the +jungle, being thus left behind. Men were sent off to search for him, +and the next day the Beloochs brought him in, looking exactly like a +naughty dog going to be punished. + +The sultans, however, of the different villages were generally friendly. + +When a desert tract had to be passed, the men went on well enough, +hoping to obtain food at the next cultivated district. + +On the 30th of July Speke discerned, four miles off, a sheet of water +which proved to be a creek at the most southern portion of the Nyanza, +called by the Arabs the Ukerewe Sea. + +Passing amidst villages and cultivated grounds, they descended to a +watercourse which he called the Jordan. It is frequented by +hippopotami, and rhinoceros pay frequent visits to the fields. + +Iron is found in abundance in this district, and nearly all the iron +tools and cutlery used in this part of Eastern Africa is manufactured +here: it is, in truth, the Birmingham of the land. The porters +therefore wished to remain to make purchases of hoes. + +A rich country was passed through, and on the 4th of August the caravan, +after leaving the village of Isamiro, ascended a hill, when the vast +expanse of the pale blue waters of the Nyanza burst suddenly on the +travellers' gaze. It was early morning. The distant sea-line of the +north horizon was defined in the calm atmosphere between the north and +west points of the compass. An archipelago of islands intercepted the +line of vision to the left. The sheet of water extended far away to the +eastward, forming the south and east angle of the lake, while two large +islands, distant about twenty or thirty miles, formed the visible north +shore of this firth. _Ukerewe_ is the name by which the whole lake is +called by the Arabs. Below, at no great distance, was the debouchure of +the creek along which he had travelled for the last three days. + +This scene would anywhere have arrested the traveller by its peaceful +beauty. He writes enthusiastically-- + +"The islands, each swelling in a gentle slope to a rounded summit +clothed with wood, between the rugged, angular, closely-cropping rocks +of granite, seen mirrored in the calm surface of the lake, on which is +here and there detected the a small black speck--the tiny canoe of some +Muanza fisherman. On the gentle-shelving plain below me blue smoke +curled above the trees, which here and there partially concealed +villages and hamlets, their brown thatched roofs contrasting with the +emerald green of the beautiful milk-bush, the coral bunches of which +clustered in such profusion round the cottages, and formed alleys and +hedgerows about the villages, as ornamental as any garden shrub in +England. + +"But the pleasure of the mere view vanished in the presence of those +more intense and exciting emotions which were called up by the +consideration of the commercial and geographical importance of the +prospect before me. I no longer felt any doubt that the lake at my feet +gave birth to that interesting river the source of which has been the +subject of so much speculation and the object of so many explorers. The +Arab's tale was proved to the letter. This is a far more extensive lake +than the Tanganyika: so broad, you could not see across it, and so long +that nobody knew its length." + +To this magnificent lake Speke gave the name of Victoria Nyanza. + +Note. It has since been proved to be only one and the least +considerable of the sources of the White Nile, by the later discoveries +of Baker and Livingstone. + +He now descended to Muanza, on the shores of the lake, having altogether +performed a journey of two hundred and twenty-six miles from Caze. + +He was here kindly treated by Sultan Mahaya, with whom an Arab merchant, +named Mansur, was residing, who gave him much valuable information. + +Taking a walk of three miles along the shores of the lake, accompanied +by Mansur and a native, the greatest traveller of the place, he ascended +a hill whence he could obtain a good view across the expanse of water +spread out before him. Several islands were seen, but some so far-off +as scarcely to be distinguishable. Facing to the west-north-west was an +unbroken sea horizon, and he calculated that the breadth of the lake was +over a hundred miles. The native, when asked the length of the lake, +faced to the north, and, nodding his head, indicated by signs that it +was something immeasurable, adding that he thought it probably extended +to the end of the world. + +Poor Mansur had been robbed of his merchandise, by a sultan whose +territory was on the shore of the lake, and he had very little chance of +obtaining redress. + +Sultan Mahaya was considered the best and most just ruler in those +quarters; and when Speke proposed crossing the lake to the island of the +Ukerewe, he urged him on no account to make the attempt. Mansur also +did his best to dissuade him, and, boats not being obtainable, he was +compelled to give up his design. + +Speke, arguing from the fact that the source of the Nile at the highest +spot which had been reached, two thousand feet above the level of the +sea, is considerably lower than the surface of the lake, which is four +thousand feet, is of opinion that the waters of the lake must flow into +it. The lake has, however, numerous feeders which flow from the +Mountains of the Moon. Indeed, from that and several other reasons, he +felt convinced that the lake is the real and long-looked-for source of +the Nile. + +As no boats of any size were to be obtained, and having gained all the +information he could, regretting that he was unable to extend his +explorations, he bade the Sultan and his Arab friend adieu, and on the +6th of August commenced his return journey. + +The country through which he passed abounds in game. Elephants are +finer here than in any other part of the world, and some have tusks +exceeding five hundred pounds the pair in weight. The people are mostly +agricultural; and when a stranger comes among them, they welcome him, +considering his advent as a good omen, and allow him to do what he +likes. + +His black attendants were in much better humour on the return journey, +as they were now going home, and, as the country was well stocked with +cattle, they could obtain as much meat as was required. One village +through which he passed, being full of sweet springs, had a dense +population possessing numerous herds of cattle. + +"If they were ruled by a few score of Europeans, what a revolution a few +years would bring forth! An extensive market would be opened to the +world, and industry and commerce would clear the way for civilisation +and enlightenment," Speke remarks. + +The country is also, he says, high, dry, and healthy, while the air is +neither too hot nor too cold. + +On the evening of the 25th of August he marched into Caze, under the +influence of a cool night and bright moon, his attendants firing off +muskets and singing, while men, women, and children came flocking out, +piercing the air with loud, shrill noises. The Arabs all came forth to +meet him and escort him to their depot, where Captain Burton, who had +been very anxious as to his safety, greeted him, numerous reports having +been set afloat about him. + +Captain Burton being now restored to health, they set off together for +Zanzibar, whence they shortly afterwards returned to England. + + + +CHAPTER FOURTEEN. + +CAPTAINS SPEKE AND GRANT'S TRAVELS FROM THE ISLAND OF ZANZIBAR, ON THE +EAST COAST OF AFRICA, TO LAKE VICTORIA NYANZA, AND DOWN THE NILE. + +SETS OUT WITH AN EXPEDITION TO PROVE THAT THE SOURCE OF THE NILE IS THE +NYANZA RIVER--ARRIVES AT ZANZIBAR--CROSSES TO BAGOMOYO WITH HIS +FOLLOWERS--THE CARAVAN--SQUABBLES AMONG THE PORTERS--THE MARCH BEGUN FOR +CAZE--THE TRAVELLER'S ROUTINE OF WORK--TRIBUTE DEMANDED BY CHIEFS--THE +HOTTENTOT ESCORT AND THE WAGUANA ESCORT--THE COUNTRY OF THE WAZARAMO-- +THEIR MANNERS AND CUSTOMS--KIDUNDA--ALONG THE KINGANNI RIVER TO THE +COUNTRY OF THE USAGARA--GRANT IS ILL--UGOGO--THE PLACE AND PEOPLE-- +ENCAMP ON A CLEARING CALLED KANYENYE, WHERE SOME OF THE PORTERS +ABSCOND--SHOOTING RHINOCEROS--NEW YEAR'S DAY AT ROUND ROCK--UNYAMUEZI, +THE COUNTRY OF THE MOON--CAZE--RECEIVED BY HIS FRIEND MUSA--THE +UNYAMUEZI PEOPLE--SET OUT AND REACH MININGA--LIBERATES A SLAVE--ILLNESS, +AND RETURNS TO CAZE--THE CUSTOM OF THE WEEZEE--REACHES MININGA AGAIN-- +DIFFICULTIES--ARRIVES AT THE DISTRICT OF THE CHIEF, MYONGA--THE PIG-- +DIFFICULTIES AGAIN--SPEKE'S ILLNESS--IS ATTENDED BY LUMERESI, WHO +AFTERWARDS MAKES EXTORTIONATE DEMANDS AND CAUSES TROUBLE--ALARMING NEWS +OF GRANT. + +Captain Speke, who had already made two expeditions into Africa, which +have been described--on the second of which he discovered the great +lake, Victoria Nyanza--started, on the 20th of July, 1858, on a third +expedition, in the hopes of proving that the Nile has its source in that +lake. He was accompanied by an old Indian brother officer, Captain +Grant. + +Having reached the island of Zanzibar, where some time was spent in +collecting a sufficient band of followers, they left Zanzibar on the +25th of September, in a corvette placed at their disposal by the sultan, +and crossed over to Bagomoyo, on the mainland. + +They had, as their attendants, ten men of the Cape Mounted Rifles, who +were Hottentots; a native commandant, Sheikh Said; five old black +sailors, who spoke Hindostanee; in addition to Bombay, Speke's former +attendant, factotum, and interpreter; a party of sixty-four Waguana +blacks, emancipated from slavery; and fifteen porters of the interior. +The two chief men, besides Said, were Bombay and Baraka, who commanded +the Zanzibar men. Fifty carbines were distributed among the elder men +of the party, and the sheikh was armed with a double-barrelled rifle, +given to him by Captain Speke. The sultan also sent, as a guard of +honour, twenty-five Beloochs, with an officer, to escort them as far as +Uzaramo, the country of the Wazaramo. They had also eleven mules to +carry ammunition, and five donkeys for the sick. + +Their whole journey was to be performed on foot. As there were no +roads, their luggage was carried on the backs of men. + +Some time was spent among the porters in squabbling, and arranging their +packs. Their captain, distinguishable by a high head-dress of ostrich +plumes stuck through a strip of scarlet flannel, led the march, flag in +hand, followed by his gang of woolly-haired negroes, armed with spears +or bows and arrows, carrying their loads, either secured to +three-pronged sticks or, when they consisted of brass or copper wire, +hung at each end of sticks carried on the shoulder. The Waguana +followed in helter-skelter fashion, carrying all sorts of articles, next +came the Hottentots, dragging the mules with the ammunition, whilst +lastly marched the sheikh and the Belooch escort, the goats and women, +the sick and stragglers bringing up the rear. + +One of the Hottentot privates soon died, and five others were sent back +sick. About thirty Seedees deserted, as did nearly all the porters, +while the sheikh also soon fell sick. + +On the 2nd of October, having bid farewell to Colonel Rigby, the British +consul at Zanzibar, who took deep interest in the expedition, and +afforded it every assistance in his power, the march began. + +They had first before them a journey of five hundred miles to Caze, the +capital of the country of the Moon, in latitude 5 degrees south, +longitude 33 degrees east, being due south of Lake Victoria Nyanza. +This was a small portion, however, only of the distance to be performed. + +Captains Speke and Grant divided the duties of the expedition between +them, the first mapping the country, which is done by timing the rate of +march, taking compass-bearings, noting the water-shed, etcetera. Then, +on arriving in camp, it was necessary to boil the thermometer to +ascertain the altitude of the station above the sea-level, and the +latitude by the meridional altitude of a star; then, at intervals of +sixty miles, lunar observations had to be taken to determine the +longitude; and, lastly, there was the duty of keeping a diary, +sketching, and making geological and zoological collections. Captain +Grant made the botanical collections and had charge of the thermometer. +He kept the rain-guage and sketched with water colours, for it was found +that photography was too severe work for the climate. + +The march was pursued before the sun was high, then came breakfast and a +pipe before exploring the neighbourhood, and dinner at sunset, then tea +and pipe before turning in at night. + +Scarcely had they commenced the journey than the petty chiefs demanded +tribute, which it was necessary to pay. The porters also struck for +higher wages; but, the leaders going on, they thought better of the +matter, and followed. + +The poor Hottentots suffered much from the climate, and were constantly +on the sick-list. The Waguana treated them with great contempt, and one +day, while a little Tot was trying to lift his pack on his mule a large +black grasped him, pack and all, in his muscular arms, lifting them +above his head, paraded him round the camp amid much laughter, and then, +putting him down, loaded his mule and patted him on the back. + +"A day's march being concluded, the sheikh and Bombay arrange the camp, +issuing cloths to the porters for the purchase of rations, the tents are +pitched, the Hottentots cook, some look after the mules and donkeys, +others cut boughs for huts and fencing, while the Beloochs are supposed +to guard the camp, but prefer gossiping and brightening their arms, +while Captain Grant kills two buck antelopes to supply the larder." + +The country through which they were passing belongs to to the tribe of +Wazaramo. It is covered with villages, the houses of which are mostly +of a conical shape, composed of hurdle-work and plastered with clay, and +thatched with grass or reeds. They profess to be the subjects of the +Sultan of Zanzibar. They are arrant rogues, and rob travellers, when +they can, by open violence. They always demand more tribute than they +expect to get, and generally use threats as a means of extortion. One +of their chiefs, the Lion-Claw, was very troublesome, sending back the +presents which had been made him, and threatening dire vengeance if his +demands were not complied with. Further on, Monkey's-Tail, another +chief, demanded more tribute; but Speke sent word that he should smell +his powder if he came for it; and, exhibiting the marksmanship of his +men, Monkey's-Tail thought better of it, and got nothing. + +The people, though somewhat short, are not bad-looking. Though their +dress is limited, they adorn themselves with shells, pieces of tin, and +beads, and rub their bodies with red clay and oil, till their skins +appear like new copper. Their hair is woolly, and they twist it into a +number of tufts, each of which is elongated by the fibres of bark. They +have one good quality, not general in Africa: the men treat the women +with much attention, dressing their hair for them, and escorting them to +the water, lest any harm should befall them. + +Kidunda was reached on the 14th of October. Hence the Belooch escort +was sent back the next day, with the specimens of natural history which +had been collected. + +Proceeding along the Kinganni River they reached the country of the +Usagara, a miserable race, who, to avoid the slave-hunters, build their +villages on the tops of hills, and cultivate only just as much land +among them as will supply their wants. Directly a caravan appears, they +take to flight and hide themselves, never attempting resistance if +overtaken. Their only dress consist of a strip of cloth round the +waist. + +Captain Grant was here seized with fever, and the sickness of the +Hottentots much increased. + +A long day's march from the hilly Usagara country led the party into the +comparatively level land of Ugogo. Food was scarce, the inhabitants +living on the seed of the calabash to save their stores of grain. + +The country has a wild aspect, well in keeping with the natives who +occupy it. The men never appeared without their spears, shields, and +_assegais_. They are fond of ornaments, the ordinary one being a tube +of gourd thrust through the lower lobe of the ear. Their colour is +somewhat like that of a rich plum. Impulsive and avaricious, they +forced their way into the camp to obtain gifts, and thronged the road as +the travellers passed by, jeering, quizzing, and pointing at them. + +On the 27th, they encamped on the eastern border of the largest clearing +in Ugogo, called Kanyenye, stacking their loads beneath a large +gouty-limbed tree. Here eight of the Wanyamuezi porters absconded, +carrying off their loads, accompanied by two Wagogo boys. + +Speke set off to shoot a rhinoceros at night. Having killed one, two +more approached in a stealthy, fidgetty way. Stepping out from his +shelter, with the two boys carrying his second rifle, he planted a ball +in the largest, which brought him round with a roar in the best position +for receiving a second shot; but, on turning round to take his spare +rifle, Speke found that the black boys had scrambled off like monkeys up +a tree, while the rhinoceros, fortunately for him, shuffled away without +charging. He hurried back to let his people know that there was food +for them, that they might take possession of it before the hungry Wagogo +could find it. Before, however, they had got the skin off the beast, +the natives assembled like vultures, and began fighting the men. The +scene, though grotesque, was savage and disgusting in the extreme; they +fell to work with swords and hatchets, cutting and slashing, thumping +and bawling, up to their knees in the middle of the carcass. When a +tempting morsel was obtained by one, a stronger would seize it and bear +off the prize--right was now might. Fortunately no fight took place +between the travellers and the villagers. The latter, covered with +blood, were seen scampering home, each with a part of the spoil. + +The Sheikh Magomba did his utmost to detain them, sending his chief, +Wazir, in an apparently friendly manner, to beg that they would live in +his palace. The bait, however, did not take--Speke knew the rogue too +well. Next day the sheikh was too drunk to listen to anyone, and thus +day after day passed by. The time was employed in shooting, and a +number of animals were killed. Magomba, however, induced nearly the +whole of the porters to decamp, and there was great difficulty in +obtaining others to take their places. An old acquaintance, whom they +met in a caravan, urged them not to attempt to move, as he thought that +it would be impossible for them to pass through the wilderness depending +only on Speke's and Grant's guns for their support. + +Still Speke resolved to push on, and most of the men who had deserted +came back. + +To keep up discipline, one of the porters, who had stolen seventy-three +yards of cloth, which was found in his kit, received three dozen lashes, +and, being found to be a murderer and a bad character, he was turned out +of the camp. + +They spent New Year's Day at Round Rock, a village occupied by a few +Wakimbu, who, by their quiet and domestic manners, made them feel that +they were out of the forest. Provisions were now obtained by sending +men to distant villages; but they were able to supply the camp with +their guns, killing rhinoceros, wild boar, antelope and zebra. + +On the 23rd of January they entered Unyamuezi, or the country of the +moon, little inferior in size to England, but cut up into numerous +pretty states. The name is abbreviated to Weezee. + +On the 24th they reached Caze, where Speke had remained so long on his +former visit. His old friend, Musa, came out to meet them, and escorted +them to his _tembe_, or house, where he invited them to reside till he +could find porters to carry their property to Karague, promising to go +there with them himself. They found here also Sheikh Snay, who, with +other Arab merchants, came at once to call on them. Snay told him that +he had an army of four hundred slaves prepared to march against the +chief, Manua Sera, who was constantly attacking and robbing their +caravans. Speke advised him not to make the attempt, as he was likely +to get the worst of it. The other Arab merchant agreed that a treaty of +peace would be better than fighting. + +Musa gave him much information about the journey northward, and promised +to supply him with sixty porters from his slave establishment, by which +arrangement Speke would have a hundred armed men to form his escort. + +Musa loudly praised Rumanika, the King of Karague, through whose +dominions the expedition was to pass. + +Some time, however, was of necessity spent at Caze in making +preparations for the journey, the two travellers employing themselves +during it in gaining information about the country. + +The Wanyamuezi, among whom they were residing, are a polite race, having +a complete code of etiquette for receiving friends or strangers; drums +are beat both on the arrival and departure of great people. When one +chief receives another, he assembles the inhabitants of the village, +with their drums and musical instruments, which they sound with all +their might, and then dance for his amusement. The drum is used, like +the bugle, on all occasions; and, when the travellers wished to move, +the drums were beaten as a sign to their porters to take up their +burdens. The women courtesy to their chief, and men clap their hands +and bow themselves. If a woman of inferior rank meets a superior, she +drops on one knee and bows her head; the superior then places her hand +on the shoulder of the kneeling woman, and they remain in this attitude +some moments, whispering a few words, after which they rise and talk +freely. + +The Wanyamuezi, or, as they are familiarly called, the Weezee, are great +traders, and travel to a considerable distance in pursuit of their +business. + +When a husband returns from a journey, his favourite wife prepares to +receive him in a peculiar manner. Having put on all her ornaments, to +which she adds a cap of feathers, she proceeds, with her friends, to the +principal wife of the chief, when, the lady coming forth, they all dance +before her, taking care to be thus occupied when the husband makes his +appearance, a band of music playing away and making as much noise as +possible with their instruments. + +On the 7th of February news was brought that Sheikh Snay had carried out +his intention of attacking Manua Sera, whom he found ensconced in a +house at Tura. Manua, however, made his escape, when Snay plundered the +whole district, and shot and murdered every one he fell in with, +carrying off a number of slaves. The chief, in consequence, threatened +to attack Caze as soon as the merchants had gone off on their +expeditions in search of ivory. + +Soon after this it was reported that Snay and other Arabs had been +killed, as well as a number of slaves. This proved to be true. + +Finding that nothing more could be done at Caze, the travellers, +assembling their caravan, commenced their march northward on the 17th of +March. + +On the 24th they reached Mininga, where they were received by an ivory +merchant named Sirboko. Here one of Sirboko's slaves, who had been +chained up, addressed Speke, piteously exclaiming: "Oh, my lord, take +pity on me! When I was a free man, I saw you on the Tanganyika lake; my +people were there attacked by the Watuta, and, being badly wounded, I +was left for dead, when, recovering, I was sold to the Arabs. If you +will liberate me, I will never run away, but serve you faithfully." +Touched by this appeal, Speke obtained the freedom of the poor man from +his master, and he was christened Farham, or Joy, and enrolled among his +other freemen. + +The abominable conduct of the Arabs, who persisted in attacking the +natives and devastating the country, placed the travellers in an awkward +position. The Hottentots, too, suffered so much from sickness that, as +the only hope of saving their lives, it was necessary to send them back +to Zanzibar. Speke therefore found it necessary to return to Caze, +which he reached on the 2nd of May, leaving Grant, who was ill, behind +at Mininga. + +He here heard of a tribe of cannibals, who, when they cannot get human +flesh, give a goat to their neighbours for a dying child, considering +such as the best flesh. They are, however, the only cannibals known in +that district. + +They were still in the country of the Weezee, of whose curious customs +they had an opportunity of seeing more. Both sexes are inveterate +smokers. They quickly manufacture their pipes of a lump of clay and a +green twig, from which they extract the pith. They all grow tobacco, +the leaves of which they twist up into a thick rope like a hay-band, and +then coil it into a flattened spiral, shaped like a target. They are +very fond of dancing. A long strip of bark or cow-skin is laid on the +ground, and the Weezee arrange themselves along it, the tallest man +posting himself in the centre. When they have taken their places the +musicians begin playing on their instruments, while the dancers commence +a strange chant, more like a howl than a song. They bow their heads, +putting their hands on their hips and stamping vigorously. The men not +dancing look on, encouraging their friends by joining in the chorus, +while the women stand behind without speaking. Meantime, the elders sit +on the ground drinking _pomba_. On one of these occasions the chief, +who was present, drank more _pomba_ than any of the people. + +While the party were thus engaged, two lads, with zebra manes tied over +their heads, and two bark tubes, formed like huge bassoons, in their +hands, leaped into the centre of the dancers, twisting and turning and +blowing their horns in the most extraordinary manner. The men, women, +and children, inspired by the sound of the music, on this began to sing +and clap their hands in time. + +_Pomba_ is a sort of spirituous liquor, produced from a kind of grain +grown in the country, which is cultivated by women, who nearly entirely +superintend the preparation of the drink. + +They received a visit from Sultan Ukulima, of Unyamuezi, a fine hale old +man, who was especially fond of this beverage, drinking it all day long. +He was pleasant enough in manner, and rather amusing when he happened +not to be tipsy. Being fond of a practical joke, he used to beg for +quinine, which he would mix slyly with _pomba_, and then offer it to his +courtiers, enjoying the wry faces they made when partaking of the bitter +draught. He used to go round to the houses of his subjects, managing to +arrive just as the pomba-brewing was finished, when he would take a +draught, and then go on to the next. He sometimes sucked it through a +reed, just as a sherry cobbler is taken, while one of his slaves held +the jar before him. + +The women and men do not drink it together. It is the custom of the +ladies to assemble in the house of the sultana, and indulge in it in her +company. + +The women, as has been said, are employed in the cultivation of the +grain from which it is made. When it is green, they cut off the ears +with a knife. These are then conveyed to the village in baskets, and +spread out in the sun to dry. The men next thrash out the grain with +long, thin flails. It is afterwards stacked in the form of corn-ricks, +raised from the ground on posts, or sometimes it is secured round a tall +post, which is stuck upright in the ground, swelling out in the centre +somewhat in the shape of a fisherman's float. When required for use, it +is pounded in wooden mortars, and afterwards ground between two stones. + +Speke reached Mininga again on the 15th, where he found Grant greatly +recovered. During his absence three villagers had been attacked by a +couple of lions. The men took to flight, and two gained the shelter of +their hut, but the third, just as he was about to enter, was seized by +the monsters and devoured. + +Difficulties of all sorts beset them: the chief was obtaining porters; +Musa, too, who pretended to be so friendly, did not keep faith with +them; but, rather than be delayed, Speke paid the beads demanded, and +once more set off. + +At length he obtained a _kirangozi_, or leader, by name Ungurue, which +may be translated the Pig. He had frequently conducted caravans to +Karague, and knew the languages of the country. He proved to be what +his name betokened--a remarkably obstinate and stupid fellow. + +Speke was still detained by the difficulty of procuring porters, some +being engaged in harvest, while others declared that they feared the +Watuta and other enemies in the districts through which they would have +to pass. + +An Arab caravan which had followed them was in the same condition. + +At length, having obtained a part of the number he required, a camp was +formed at Phunze, where Grant, with Bombay to attend on him, remained in +charge of part of the baggage, while Speke, with the Pig as his guide +and Baraka as his attendant, pushed on ahead. + +The chiefs of every district through which they passed demanded _hongo_, +or tribute, without which the travellers could not move forward. This +caused numberless provoking delays, as the chiefs were often not content +with what was offered to them. + +On the 9th of June he arrived in a district governed by a chief called +Myonga, famed for his extortions and infamous conduct, in consequence of +which no Arabs would pass that way. On approaching his palace, war +drums were heard in every surrounding village. The Pig went forward to +obtain terms for the caravan to pass by. Myonga replied that he wished +to see a white man, as he had never yet set eyes on one, and would have +a residence prepared for him. Speke declined the favour, but sent +Baraka to arrange the _hongo_. Baraka amused himself, as usual, for +some hours, with firing off volleys of ammunition, and it was not till +evening that the palace drums announced that the _hongo_ had been +settled, consisting of six yards of cloth, some beads, and other +articles. On this Speke immediately gave orders to commence the march, +but two cows had been stolen from the caravan, and the men declared that +they would not proceed without getting them back. Speke knew that if he +remained more cloths would be demanded, and as soon as the cows arrived +he shot them and gave them to the villagers. This raised a mutiny among +his men, and the Pig would not show the way, nor would a single porter +lift his load. Speke would not enter the village, and his party +remained, therefore, in the open all night. The next morning, as he +expected, Myonga sent his prime minister, who declared that the ladies +of his court had nothing to cover their nakedness, and that something +more must be paid. This caused fresh difficulties, the drums beat, and +at length, much against his inclination, Speke paid some more yards of +cloth for the sake of Grant, who might otherwise have been annoyed by +the scoundrel. + +This is a specimen of some of the lighter difficulties which the +travellers had to encounter on their journey. + +Having passed a number of villages, they entered a tract of jungle in +which a stream formed the boundary between the great country of the Moon +and the kingdom of Uzinga. + +The district Speke next entered was ruled by two chieftains descended +from Abyssinians. They were as great extortioners, however, as any of +the pure negro race. + +The Pig continued his tricks, and the travellers were heavily taxed and +robbed at every step. The porters, too, refused to advance, declaring +that they should be murdered, as the Watuta, their great enemies, were +out on a foray: finally, they ran away and hid themselves. These +Watuta, they said, were desperate fellows, who had invaded their country +and killed their wives and children, and had despoiled them of +everything they held dear. Baraka also showed the white feather. +Speke, however, put on a bold front, and declared that he would return +to Caze and collect men who would not be afraid to accompany him to +Usui. He carried his plan into execution, rejoined Grant, and obtained +two fresh guides, Bui and Nasib, a steady old traveller. Still he was +unable to obtain fresh porters to carry on his baggage, and he was once +more obliged to part from Grant. + +Having gone some way, Speke was taken seriously ill, while, again, his +guides refused to proceed. This occurred while he was in the district +of a chief, named Lumeresi, who insisted on his coming to his village, +feeling jealous that he had remained in that of another inferior chief. +Lumeresi was not in when Speke arrived, but on his return, at night, he +beat all his drums to celebrate the event, and fired a musket; in reply +to which Speke fired three shots. The chief, however, though he +pretended to be very kind, soon began to beg for everything he saw. +Speke, who felt that his best chance of recovering from his illness was +change of air, ordered his men to prepare a hammock in which he might be +conveyed. Although he had already given the chief a handsome _hongo_, +or tribute, consisting of a red blanket, and a number of pretty common +cloths for his children, no sooner did he begin to move than Lumeresi +placed himself in his way and declared that he could not bear the idea +of his white visitor going to die in the jungle. His true object, +however, was to obtain a robe, or _deole_, which Speke had determined +not to give him. However, at length, rather than be detained, he +presented the only one which he had preserved for the great chief, +Rumanika, into whose territories he was about to proceed. Scarcely had +the chief received it, than he insisted on a further _hongo_, exactly +double what had previously been given him. Again Speke yielded, and +presented a number of brass-wire bracelets, sixteen cloths, and a +hundred necklaces of coral beads, which were to pay for Grant as well as +himself. + +When about to march, however, Bui and Nasib were not to be found. On +this, Speke determined to send back Bombay to Caze for fresh guides and +interpreters, who were to join Grant on their return. + +In the meantime, while lying in a fearfully weak condition, reduced +almost to a skeleton, he was startled, at midnight, out of his sleep by +hearing the hurried tramp of several men. They proved to be Grant's +porters, who, in short excited sentences, told him that they had left +Grant standing under a tree with nothing but a gun in his hand; that his +Wanguann porters had been either killed or driven away, having been +attacked by Myonga's men, who had fallen upon the caravan, and shot, +speared, and plundered the whole of it. + + + +CHAPTER FIFTEEN. + +SPEKE AND GRANT'S TRAVELS CONTINUED. + +CAPTAIN GRANT--HIS DESCRIPTION OF A WEEZEE VILLAGE AND THE CUSTOMS OF +THE PEOPLE--SLAVERY--SETS OUT, AND IS ATTACKED BY MYONGA--GRANT AND +SPEKE UNITE--JOURNEY TO KARAGUE--THE COUNTRY DESCRIBED--RUMANIKA +RECEIVES THEM--THE PEOPLE AND THEIR CUSTOMS--WILD ANIMALS--SPEKE SETS +OUT FOR UGANDA. + +We must now return to Captain Grant, who had been left in the Unyamuezi +country, about which, during his stay, he made numerous observations. + +"In a Weezee village," he tells us, "there are few sounds to disturb the +traveller's night rest. The horn of the new-comers, and the reply to it +from a neighbouring village, an accidental alarm, the chirping of +crickets, and the cry from a sick child occasionally, however, broke the +stillness. At dawn the first sounds were the crowing of cocks, the +lowing of cows, the bleating of calves, and the chirruping of sparrows +(which might have reminded him of Europe). Soon after would be heard +the pestle and mortar shelling corn, or the cooing of wild pigeons in +the neighbouring palm-grove." The huts were shaped like corn-stacks, +dark within as the hold of a ship. A few earthen jars, tattered skins, +old bows and arrows, with some cups of grass, gourds, and perhaps a +stool constitute the furniture. + +Different tribes vary greatly in appearance. Grant describes some as +very handsome. He mentions two Nyambo girls, who, in the bloom of +youth, sat together with their arms affectionately twined round each +other's neck, and, when asked to separate that they might be sketched, +their arms were dropped at once, exposing their necks and busts, models +for Greek slaves. Their woolly hair was combed out, and raised up from +the forehead and over their ears by a broad band from the skin of a +milk-white, cow, which contrasted strangely with their transparent, +light-copper skins. The Waha women are like them, having tall, erect, +graceful figures and intelligent features. + +An Arab trader, whom they had met, had sixty wives, who lived together +in a double-poled tent, with which he always travelled. One of them was +a Watusi, a beautiful, tall girl, with large, dark eyes, and the +smallest mouth and nose, with thin lips and small hands. Her noble race +will never become slaves, preferring death to slavery. + +The Wanyamuezi treat the Watusi with great respect. When two people of +these tribes meet, the former presses his hands together, the Watusi +uttering a few words in a low voice. If a Watusi man meets a woman of +his own tribe, she lets her arms fall by her side, while he gently +presses them below the shoulders, looking affectionately in her face. + +The class of Arabs met with were a most degraded set: instead of +improving the country, they brought ruin upon it by their imperiousness +and cruelty. All traded in slaves and generally treated them most +harshly. Several gangs were met with in chains. Each slave was dressed +in a single goat's skin, and at night they kept themselves warm by lying +near a fire. Never, by day or night, is the chain unfastened; should +one of them require to move, the whole must accompany him. All ate +together boiled sweet potato, or the leaves of the pumpkin plant, and +were kept in poor condition to prevent their becoming troublesome. + +Any meat or bones left from the travellers' dinners were therefore given +them, and accepted thankfully. One gang was watched over by a small +lad, whose ears had been cut off, and who treated them with unfeeling +coarseness. A sick slave having recovered, it was the boy's duty to +chain him to his gang again, and it was grievous to see the rough way he +used the poor, emaciated creature. + +They had not much work to do, the sole object of the owner being to keep +them alive and prevent their running away till sold at the coast. They +generally looked sullen and full of despair; but occasionally, at night, +they danced and became even riotous, till a word from the earless imp +restored them to order. + +Among them was a poor fellow who had been five years in chains. The +travellers took compassion on him, and released him from bondage. His +chains were struck off with a hammer, and, once on his feet, a freedman, +he seemed scarcely to believe the fact; when, however, attired in a +clean calico shirt, he strutted about and soon came to make his new +master his best bow. On his body were numerous spear-wounds. He had +been captured by the Watuta, who had cut off several of his toes. This +man never deserted them during the journey, accompanying them to Cairo, +having gained the character of a faithful servant. + +The Arab in Africa takes presents for everything he does, and it was +believed that the white men would do the same. If a bullet was +extracted, a gun repaired, an old sultan physicked, or the split lobe of +an ear mended, a cow or cows were at hand to be paid when the task was +finished. + +When slaves were brought for sale and declined by the Englishmen, the +natives could not understand their indifference to such traffic, but +would turn from them with a significant shrug, as much as to say: "Why +are you here then?" The most horrible punishments are inflicted on +those who offend against the laws of the country. A woman and lad, who +had been accused of bewitching the sultan's brother, were found with +their arms tied behind them, writhing in torture on their faces. No +sympathy was shown them from the jeering crowd. The lad at last cried +out: "Take me to the forest; I know a herb remedy." He was allowed to +go, while the woman was kept in the stocks near the sick patient. The +lad was put to death, and Captain Grant suspected, tortured before a +fire. Another man, for a crime in the sultan's harem, was stripped, +tied to railings, and his person smeared with grease and covered with +greased rags, which were then set fire to, when he was dragged forth to +a huge fire outside the village. On his way, _assegais_ were darted at +him by the son and daughter-in-law of the sultan, and when he fell he +was dragged out by one leg. + +Grant had the same difficulties in moving that Speke had experienced. + +At length, on the 12th of September, he got away, but on the 16th, as he +was passing through the territory of Sultan Myonga, his men moving in +Indian file, a band of two hundred natives, armed with _assegais_ and +bows and arrows, burst upon him, springing over the ground like cats. +The uplifted _assegais_ and the shouts of the robbers frightened the +porters, who gave up their loads and attempted to escape from the +ruffians, who were pulling their clothes and loads from them. Grant +endeavoured without bloodshed to prevent this, but, as he had only one +of his gun-men and two natives by him, he could do nothing. Little +Rohan the sailor, one of his Zambesi men, was found with his rifle in +hand at full cock, defending two loads against five men. He had been +urged to fly for his life. The property, he answered, was his life. +Grant made his way, however, to Myonga, seeing as he went the natives +dressed out in the stolen clothes of his men. Though honour was dear, +the safety of the expedition was so likewise, and one false step would +have endangered it. + +Myonga pretended to be very indignant, and said that he had cut off the +hand of one of his men, and promised that the property should be +restored. Some of the loads were given back, but others had been broken +open and rifled, and the chief demanded an enormous _hongo_ for +permitting Grant to proceed. This was the origin of the alarming +intelligence Captain Speke had received. + +At length the two travellers united their forces, and together they +continued their journey towards Karague. To reach it they had first to +pass through the province of Usui, the chief of which, Suwarora, +pillaged them as usual. Here the little grass-hut villages were not +fenced by a _boma_, but were hidden in large fields of plantains. +Cattle were numerous, kept by the Wahuma, who would not sell their milk, +because the Englishmen eat fowls. Their camp, night after night, was +attacked by thieves. One night, as Speke was taking an observation, a +party of these rascals enquired of two of the women of the camp what he +was about. While the latter were explaining, the thieves whipped off +their clothes and ran away with them, leaving the poor creatures in a +state of absolute nudity. Speke had not taken much notice of the goats +and other things which had been stolen, but, in consequence of this, he +ordered his men to shoot any thieves who came near. A short time +afterwards, another band approaching, one of the men was shot, who +turned out to be a magician, and was till then thought invulnerable. He +was tracked by his blood, and afterwards died of his wound. The next +day some of Speke's men were lured into the huts of the natives by an +invitation to dinner, but, when they got them there, they stripped them +stark-naked and let them go again. At night the same rascals stoned the +camp. After this another thief was shot dead and two others were +wounded. Bombay and Baraka gave their masters also a good deal of +trouble. The former, who was looked upon as an excellent fellow, more +than once got very drunk, and stole their property in order to purchase +a wife for himself, besides which the two men quarrelled desperately +with each other. + +At length, however, the travellers got free of Usui and the native guard +who had been sent to see them over the borders, and entered Karague, to +their great relief and happiness. + +They had now, for some distance, wild animals alone to contend with, and +these they well knew how to manage. Soon after pitching their tent they +were greeted by Kachuchu, an officer sent by the king, Rumanika, to +escort them through his country. He informed them that the village +officers were instructed to supply them with food at the king's expense, +as there were no taxes gathered from strangers in the kingdom of +Karague. + +The country was hilly, wild, and picturesque, the higher slopes dotted +with thick bushes of acacias, the haunts of the white and black +rhinoceros, while in the valley were large herds of harte-beestes. The +further they proceeded into the country, the better they liked it, as +the people were all kept in good order. A beautiful lake was seen, +which at first they supposed to be a portion of the Nyanza, but it +proved to be a separate lake, to which the name of Windermere was given. + +They now attained the delightful altitude of five thousand odd feet, the +atmosphere at night feeling very cool. Away to the west some bold +sky-scraping cones were observed, and, on making enquiries, Speke was +convinced that those distant hills were the great turn-point of the +Central African water-shed. Numerous travellers, whom he collected +round him, gave him assistance in forming his map. He was surprised at +the amount of information about distant places which he was able to +obtain from these intelligent men. + +As they approached the palace, the king, Rumanika, sent them a supply of +excellent tobacco and beer manufactured by his people. On drawing near +his abode, the bearers were ordered to put down their loads and fire a +salute, and the two travellers at once received an invitation to visit +the king. He was found sitting cross-legged with his brother Nnanaji, +both men of noble appearance and size. The king was plainly dressed in +an Arab black _choba_; he wore on his legs numerous rings of rich +coloured beads, and neatly-worked wristlets of copper. Nnanaji, being a +doctor of high credit, was covered with charms; he wore a checked cloth +wrapped round him. Large clay pipes were at their sides, ready for use. +In their rear sat the king's sons, as quiet as mice. + +The king greeted them warmly and affectionately, and in an instant both +travellers felt that they were in the company of men who were totally +unlike the common order of the natives of the surrounding districts. +They had fine oval faces, large eyes, and high noses, denoting the best +blood of Abyssinia. They shook hands in the English style, the +ever-smiling king wishing to know what they thought of his country. He +observed that he considered his mountains the finest in the world: "And +the lake, too; did not they admire it?" He seemed a very intelligent +man, and enquired how they found their way over the world, which led to +a long story, describing the proportions of land and water, the way +ships navigate the ocean, and convey even elephants and the rhinoceros +to fill the menageries of Europe. He gave them their choice of having +quarters in his palace or pitching their tents outside. They selected a +spot overlooking the lake, on account of the beautiful view. The young +princes were ordered to attend on them, one of whom, seeing Speke seated +in an iron chair, rushed back to his father with the intelligence. +Speke was accordingly requested to return, that he might exhibit the +white man sitting on his throne. Rumanika burst into a fresh fit of +merriment at seeing him, and afterwards made many enlightened remarks. +On another visit Speke told the king that if he would send two of his +children, he would have them instructed in England, for he admired his +race, and believed them to have sprung from the friends of the English, +the Abyssinians, who were Christians, and had not the Wahuma lost their +knowledge of God, they would be so likewise. A long theological and +historical discussion ensued, which so pleased the king that he said he +would be delighted if Speke would take two of his sons to England. He +then enquired what could induce them to leave their country and travel, +when Speke replied that they had had their fill of the luxuries of life, +and that their great delight was to observe and admire the beauties of +creation, but especially their wish was to pay visits to the kings of +Africa, and in particular his Majesty. He then promised that they +should have boats to convey them over the lake, with musicians to play +before them. + +In the afternoon Speke, having heard that it was the custom to fatten up +the wives of the king and princes to such an extent that they could not +stand upright, paid a visit to the king's eldest brother. On entering +the hut, he found the old chief and his wife sitting side by side on a +bench of earth strewed over with grass, while in front of them were +placed numerous wooden pots of milk. Speke was received by the prince +with great courtesy, and was especially struck by the extraordinary +dimensions, yet pleasing beauty of the immoderately fat fair one, his +wife. She could not rise. So large were her arms that between the +joints the flesh hung like large loose bags. Then came in their +children, all models of the Abyssinian type of beauty, and as polite in +their manners as thorough-bred gentlemen. They were delighted in +looking over his picture-books and making enquiries about them. The +prince, pointing to his wife, observed: "This is all the product of +those pots, as, from early youth upwards, we keep those pots to their +mouths, being the custom of the court to have very fat wives." + +The king, having supposed that the travellers had been robbed of all +their goods, was delighted with the liberal presents he received, above +all that of a coat of handsome scarlet broadcloth. He told them that +they might visit every part of his country, and when the time arrived +for proceeding to Uganda, he would escort them to the boundary. + +Altogether, Rumanika was the most intelligent and best-looking ruler the +travellers met with in Africa. He had nothing of the African in his +appearance, except that his hair was short and woolly. He was fully six +feet two inches in height, and the expression of his countenance was +mild and open. He was fully clothed in a robe made of small +antelope-skins and another of dark cloth, always carrying, when walking, +a long staff in his hand. His four sons were favourable specimens of +their race, especially the eldest, named Chunderah. He was somewhat of +a dandy, being more neat about his lion-skin covers and ornaments than +his brothers. From the tuft of wool left unshaven on the crown of his +head to his waist he was bare, except when his arms and neck were +decorated with charmed horns, strips of otter-skin, shells, and bands of +wool. He was fond of introducing Friz, Speke's head man, into the +palace, that he might amuse his sisters with his guitar, and in return +the sisters, brothers, and followers would sing Karague music. The +youngest son was the greatest favourite, and on one occasion, the +travellers having presented him with a pair of white kid gloves, were +much amused with the dignified way in which he walked off, having coaxed +them on to his fingers. + +Rumanika, contrary to the usual African custom, was singularly +abstemious, living almost entirely on milk, merely sucking the juice of +boiled beef. He scarcely ever touched plantain wine or beer, and had +never been known to be intoxicated. The people were generally +excessively fond of this wine, the peasants especially drinking large +quantities of it. + +Rumanika was not only king, but priest and prophet; indeed, his +elevation to the throne was due, as his friends asserted, to +supernatural agency. After the death of his father, his two brothers +and he claimed the throne. Their pretentions were to be settled by an +ordeal. They possessed a small magic drum, and, it being placed on the +ground, he who could lift it was to take the crown. His brothers were +unable to stir it, though exerting all their strength, but Rumanika +raised it with his little finger. This test, however, not satisfying +the chiefs, they insisted on Rumanika going through another trial. He +was seated on the ground, and it was believed that if he was the +appointed king, the portion of soil on which he sat would rise up in the +air, but if not, it would collapse, and he would be dashed to pieces. +According to the belief of his subjects, no sooner had Rumanika taken +his seat, than he was raised into the sky, and was therefore +acknowledged king. + +One of the most curious customs which Rumanika holds in his character of +high priest, is his new-moon _levee_, which takes place every month, for +the purpose of ascertaining the loyalty of his subjects. On the evening +of the new-moon the king adorns himself with a plume of feathers on his +head, a huge white beard descending to his breast. He takes post behind +a screen. Before him are arranged forty long drums on the ground, on +the head of each of which is painted a white cross. The drummers stand +each with a pair of sticks, and in front is their leader, who has a +couple of small drums slung round his neck. The leader raises first his +right arm and then his left, the performers imitating him, when he +brings down both sticks on the drums with a rapid roll, they doing the +same, until the noise is scarcely to be endured. This having continued +for some hours, with the addition of smaller drums and other musical +instruments, the chiefs advance in succession, leaping and +gesticulating, and shouting expressions of devotion to their sovereign. +Having finished their performance, they kneel before him, holding out +their knobbed sticks that he may touch them, then, retiring, make room +for others. + +Civilised as the country is in some respects, marriage is a matter of +barter between the father and the intended husband, the former receiving +cows, slaves, sheep, etcetera, for his daughter. Should, however, a +bride not approve of her husband, by returning the marriage gifts she is +again at liberty. The chief ceremony at marriages consists in tying up +the bride in a skin, blackened all over, and carrying her with a noisy +procession to her husband. + +The ladies of this country lead an easy life in many respects, their +chief object, apparently, being to get as fat as possible. Many of them +succeed wonderfully well, in consequence of their peculiar constitution, +or from the food they eat being especially nutritious. Five of +Rumanika's wives were so enormous that they were unable to enter the +door of any ordinary hut, or to move about without being supported by a +person on either side. One of his sisters-in-law was of even still +greater proportions. Speke measured her; round her arm was one foot +eleven inches; chest, four feet four inches; thigh, two feet seven +inches; calf, one foot eight inches; height, five feet eight inches. He +could have obtained her height more accurately could he have had her +laid on the floor; but, knowing the difficulties he would have had to +contend with in such a piece of engineering, he tried to get her height +by raising her up. This, after infinite exertion, was accomplished, +when she sank down again, fainting, for the blood had rushed into her +head. Meanwhile the daughter, a lass of sixteen, sat before them, +sucking at a milk-pot, on which the father kept her at work by holding a +rod in his hand; for, as fattening is one of the first duties of +fashionable female life, it must be duly enforced with the rod if +necessary. The features of the damsel were lovely, but her body was as +round as a ball. + +The women turn their obesity to good account. In exchanging food for +beads it is usual to purchase a certain quantity of food, which shall be +paid for by a belt of beads that will go round the waist. The women of +Karague being on an average twice as large round the waist as those of +other districts, food practically rises a hundred per cent, in price. +Notwithstanding their fatness their features retain much beauty, the +face being oval and the eyes fine and intelligent. The higher class of +women are modest, not only wearing cow-skin petticoats, but a wrapper of +black cloth, with which they, envelope their whole bodies, merely +allowing one hand to be seen. + +The travellers were allowed to move about the country as they liked, and +the king sent his sons to attend on them, that they might enjoy such +sport as was to be found. They heard of no elephants in that district, +but harte-beestes, rhinoceros, and hippopotami were common. + +One day Captain Grant saw two harte-beestes engaged in a desperate +combat, halting calmly between each round to breathe. He could hear, +even at a considerable distance, the force of every butt as their heads +met, and, as they fell on their knees, the impetus of the attack, +sending their bushy tails over their backs, till one, becoming the +victor, chased the other out of the herd. + +Several varieties of antelope and the mountain gazelle were seen +bounding over the hills. Pigs abounded in the low grounds, and +hippopotami in the lake. + +Captain Speke went out in search of rhinoceros, accompanied by the +prince, with a party of beaters. In a short time he discovered a fine +male, when, stealing between the bushes, he gave him a shot which made +him trot off, till, exhausted by loss of blood, he lay down to die. The +young princes were delighted with the effect of the Englishman's gun, +and, seizing both his hands, congratulated him on his successes. + +A second rhinoceros was killed after receiving two shots. While +pursuing the latter, three appeared, who no sooner sighted Speke, than +they all charged at him in line. His gun-bearers, however, were with +him, and, taking his weapons, he shot the three animals in turn. One +dropped down a little way on, but the others only pulled up when they +arrived at the bottom of the hill. The fore legs of another were +broken, when the natives set on him; but he kept charging with so much +fury that they could not venture to approach till Speke had given him a +second ball, which brought him to the ground. Every man then rushed at +the creature, sending his spear, _assegai_, or arrow into his sides +until he sank like a porcupine covered with quills. The heads were sent +to the king, to show what the white man could do. Rumanika exhibited +the greatest astonishment, declaring that something more potent than +powder had been used; for, though the Arabs talk of their shooting +powers, they could not have accomplished such a feat. "It is no +wonder," he added, "that the English are the greatest men in the world." + +Rumanika, like great men in other countries, had his private band. The +instruments were of a somewhat primitive character, while the musicians +differed in appearance considerably from those of Europe. The most +common instruments are the drums, which vary greatly in size: one hung +to the shoulder is about four feet in length, and one in width. It is +played with the fingers, like the Indian _tom-tom_. The drums used at +the new-moon _levee_ are of the same shape, but very much larger. The +war drum is beaten by women. At its sound the men rush to arms, and +repair to their several quarters. There are also several stringed +instruments. One of these, which Captain Grant describes, was played by +an old woman; it had seven notes, six of which were a perfect scale. +Another, which had three strings, was played by a man: they were a full, +harmonious chord. A third instrument called "the laced _nanga_" formed +of dark wood, in the shape of a tray, had three crosses in the bottom, +and was laced with one string, seven or eight times, over bridges at +either end. + +The prince sent the best player to be found to entertain his guest. The +man entered, dressed in the usual Wanyambo costume, looking a wild, +excited creature. After resting his spear against the roof of his hut, +he took a _nanga_ from under his arm and began playing, his wild yet +gentle music and words attracting a number of admirers. It was about a +favourite dog, and for days afterwards the people sang that dog song. + +There is another stringed instrument, called the _zeze_, somewhat +similar to the _nanga_. They have two wind instruments, one resembling +a flageolet, and another a bugle. The latter is composed of several +pieces of gourd, fitted one into another, in telescope fashion, and is +covered with cow-skin. + +Rumanika's band was composed of sixteen men, fourteen of whom had +bugles, and the other two hand-drums. On the march they form in three +ranks, the drummers being in the rear, swaying their bodies in time to +the music, while the leader advances with a curiously active step, +touching the ground alternately with each knee. They also, when the +king rested on a march, or when out hunting, played before him, while he +sat on the ground and smoked his pipe. + +The Wahuma, like most Africans, have great faith in the power of charms, +and believe that by their means persons can be rendered invulnerable. +They also believe in the constant presence of departed souls, supposing +that they exercise a good or evil influence over those whom they have +known in life. When a field is blighted or a crop does not promise +well, a gourd is placed in the pathway; passengers set up a wailing cry, +which they intend as a prayer to the spirits to give a good crop to +their mourning relatives. Rumanika, in order to propitiate the spirit +of his father, was in the habit of sacrificing annually a cow on his +tomb, and also of placing offerings on it of corn and wine. These and +many other instances show that, though their minds are dark and +misguided, the people possess religious sentiments which might afford +encouragement to missionaries of the gospel. + +The commencement of 1862 found the travellers still guests of the +enlightened king. Hearing that it was the English custom on Christmas +Day to have an especially good dinner, he sent an ox. Captain Speke in +return paid him a visit. He offered him the compliments of the season, +and reminded him that he was of the old stock of Abyssinians, who were +among the oldest Christians on record, and that he hoped the time would +come when white teachers would visit his country, to instruct him in the +truths which he and his people had forgotten. + +News now arrived which induced them to believe that Mr Petherick was +indeed on his road up the Nile, endeavouring to reach them. Rumanika +was highly delighted to hear this, as he was especially anxious to have +white men visit his country from the north. + +Active preparations were now made for the departure of the travellers, +but unhappily Captain Grant was suffering from so severe a complaint in +one of his legs, that he was compelled to remain behind, under the +protection of the hospitable sovereign, while Speke set off for Uganda. + + + +CHAPTER SIXTEEN. + +SPEKE AND GRANT'S TRAVELS CONTINUED. + +AN ESCORT FROM MTESA, KING OF UGANDA, ARRIVES--THE KITANGULE RIVER--THE +PHEPO--SLAUGHTER OF THE NATIVES--UGANDA DESCRIBED--SPEKE'S RECEPTION-- +MTESA'S CRUELTY--ARREST OF THE QUEEN--A REVIEW OF TROOPS--GRANT +ARRIVES--ARRANGEMENTS FOR PROCEEDING TO UNYORO--THE WATER-SPIRIT'S HIGH +PRIEST. + +On the 10th of January a large escort of smartly-dressed men, women, and +boys, leading their dogs and playing their reeds, under the command of +Maula, arrived from Mtesa, King of Uganda, to conduct the travellers to +his capital. Maula informed them that the king had ordered his officers +to supply them with everything they wanted while passing through his +country, and that there would be nothing to pay. + +Speke set forth, in the hopes that before long he should settle the +great Nile problem for ever. It was, however, not believed that he +would be able to proceed north from Uganda, Rumanika especially +declaring that he would be compelled to return to the southward. + +Passing through a remarkably rich country, famous for its ivory and +coffee productions, they descended from the Mountains of the Moon to an +alluvial plain, where Rumanika keeps thousands of cows. Once elephants +abounded here, but, since the increase of the ivory trade, these animals +had been driven off to the distant hills. + +On the 16th they reached the Kitangule River, which falls into the +Victoria Nyanza. It was about eighty yards broad and so deep that it +could not be poled by the canoe-men, while it runs at a velocity of from +three to four knots an hour. It is fed from the high-seated springs in +the Mountains of the Moon. Speke believed that the Mountains of the +Moon give birth to the Congo as well as the Nile, and also the Shire +branch of the Zambesi. + +The country through which they passed was a perfect garden of +plantations, surprisingly rich, while along the banks of the river +numberless harte-beestes and antelopes were seen. + +At a village, where they were compelled to stop two days, drumming, +singing, screaming, yelling, and dancing went on the whole time, during +the night as well as day, to drive the _phepo_, or devil, away. In +front of a hut sat an old man and woman, smeared with white mud, and +holding pots of _pomba_ in their laps, while people came, bringing +baskets full of plantain squash and more pots of _pomba_. Hundreds of +them were collected in the court-yard, all perfectly drunk, making the +most terrific uproar. + +The king sent messengers expressing his desire to see the white man, and +they were informed that he had caused fifty big men and four hundred +small ones to be executed because he believed that his subjects were +anxious to prevent them. + +Speke now sent back to Grant, earnestly urging him to come on if he +possibly could, as he had little doubt that they would be able to +proceed across the country to the northward. + +On approaching the capital, a messenger came to say that the king was so +eager to meet the white man that he would not taste food until he had +seen him. + +The neighbourhood was reached on the 19th of February. Speke says it +was a magnificent sight; the whole hill was covered with gigantic huts, +such as he had never before seen in Africa. He proposed going at once +to the palace; but the officers considered that such a proceeding would +be indecent, and advised him to draw up his men and fire his gun off to +let the king know that he had arrived. He was excessively indignant at +being shown the dirty huts for his accommodation, in which the Arabs put +up when they came to the place. Speke declared that, unless better +quarters were found him, he would return; but the officer entreated that +he would not be so hasty. Rain, coming on, prevented a _levee_ being +held that day. The presents being got ready, Speke marshalled his +procession: the king's officers and pages, with himself, marched on the +flanks; the Union Jack, carried by his guide, led the way, followed by +twelve of his men, as a guard of honour, dressed in red flannel cloaks, +carrying their arms sloped, with fixed bayonets, while in the their rear +came the rest of his attendants, each bearing some article as a present. + +He was surprised at the extraordinary dimensions of the palace, and the +neatness with which it was kept. The whole brow and sides of the hill +were covered with gigantic grass-huts, neatly thatched and fenced all +round with the tall, yellow reeds of the tiger-grass, while, within the +enclosures, the lines of huts were joined together or partitioned off +into courts, with the walls of the same grass. + +These huts formed the residence of Mtesa's three or four hundred wives, +the rest living chiefly with his mother, the queen dowager. The ladies +were seen at the doors, making their remarks and enjoying their jokes. +At each gate they passed, officers opened and shut them, jingling the +big bells hung upon them to prevent stealthy entrance. + +As they advanced, courtiers of high dignity stepped forward to greet the +white man, dressed in the most scrupulously neat fashions. Men, women, +bulls, dogs, and goats were led about by strings, cocks and hens were +carried in men's arms, and little page-boys with rope turbans rushed +about conveying messages, as if their lives depended on their swiftness, +every one holding his skin cloak tightly round him, lest his naked legs +should by accident be shown, a crime which in that kingdom, if happening +in the presence of the king, meets with instant death. + +These huts are well-built of reed, which grows to a great height. They +have double roofs formed of thick grass thatch, in order to exclude the +heat of the sun. The outer roof comes nearly to the ground on all +sides. The structure is supported by stout poles, on which are hung +sacks of corn, meat, and other provisions. The interior is divided into +two portions by a high screen, the inner serving as a sleeping-room, in +which a bedstead formed of cane is placed. There are no windows nor +chimneys, and only one door in front. + +When Speke, however, was desired to sit down outside to wait the +appearance of the monarch, he, considering this an act of discourtesy, +refused to comply. After waiting five minutes, as the king did not +appear, he thought it right to walk home again, giving Bombay directions +to leave his present on the ground. He was followed soon afterwards by +Bombay, who told him that he might bring his own chair, as the king was +anxious to show him every respect, although no one but the monarch was +allowed in Uganda to sit on an artificial seat. + +On his return, he found the king, a good-looking, well-figured, tall +young man of twenty-five, sitting on a red blanket, which formed his +throne, in the state hut. His hair was cut short, with the exception of +a ridge on the top which ran stem to stern, like a cockscomb. He wore +on his neck a large ring with beautifully-worked small beads. On one +arm was another bead ornament, and on the other a wooden charm, and on +every finger and toe he had alternately brass and copper rings, while +above the ankles, half way up to the calf, he had stockings of very +pretty beads. + +In front of him were his nobles, squatting on the ground, all habited in +skins, mostly cow-skins, some few--the sign of royal blood--having +leopard-skins girded round their waists. Speke was desired to halt and +sit in the glaring sun, while he was advancing hat in hand. He donned +his hat, mounted his umbrella, and quietly sat down, to observe what was +going on. A white dog, spear, shield, and woman, the Uganda cognisance, +were by the side of the king, as also a knot of staff-officers, with +whom he kept up a brisk conversation, while he took copious draughts +from neat little gourd cups, offered by his ladies-in-waiting. + +The traveller could not speak his language, and his interpreter dared +not address the king, it being contrary to etiquette. Conversation was +therefore impossible, and he was very glad, therefore, when at length +his Majesty got up and retired, with a gait which was intended to be +very majestic. It was to represent the step of a lion, but the outward +sweep of the legs looked only like a ludicrous waddle. The king had in +reality gone to eat his breakfast, as he had not broken his fast since +hearing of the traveller's arrival. He quickly returned, and Speke was +again invited in, with his men. He found the king standing on a red +blanket, talking and laughing to a hundred or more of his admiring +wives, who were all squatting on the ground outside, forming two groups. +His men dared not advance upright, but, stooping, with lowered head and +averted eyes, came cringing after him, it being a high crime to look +upon the ladies of the court. It was difficult, however, to carry on +conversation with him, as every answer had to be passed through the +interpreter, and then delivered to the king's chief officer, and +frequently another question was asked before the first was answered. +The most important questions had reference to opening up a passage +across the country. Before Speke could explain his views, the king put +another question. + +Mtesa was a perfect despot and tyrant, the lives of all his subjects, +from the highest to the lowest, being in his power. When the whim +seized him, he did not hesitate to kill as many as he chose. + +The king's subjects approach in the most cringing attitudes, and, on +receiving any favour, throw themselves on the ground, floundering about, +shrieking out: "_Nynzig! nynzig_!" He is attended by a number of young +pages, with rope turbans on their heads, who are seen rushing about in +every direction to obey his behests, and directly a wife or courtier +offends the despot, rush upon the unhappy individuals and drag them off +to immediate execution. + +Speke, however, won his favour by blistering and doctoring him. He +managed to keep up his own dignity by refusing to submit when improperly +treated. He also gained great credit with the monarch by exhibiting his +skill as a sportsman; and Mtesa was delighted to find that after a +little practice he himself could kill birds and animals. He did not, +however, confine himself to shooting at the brute creation, but +occasionally killed a man or woman who might have been found guilty of +some crime. + +After a considerable lapse of time Speke obtained a residence at what +was looked upon as the "west end" of the city. It was in a garden, in +view of the palace, so that he could hear the constant music and see the +throngs of people going to and fro. Having selected the best hut for +himself, and giving the other to his three officers, he ordered his men +to build barracks for themselves in the form of a street from his hut to +the main road. He could now visit the palace with more ease, and +obtained better opportunities of seeing the king and endeavouring to +gain the important ends he had in view. + +The sights he witnessed were very often painful. Scarcely a day passed +that he did not see one, and sometimes more, of the unhappy female +inmates of the palace dragged off to execution by one of the body-guard, +the poor creature shrieking out, as she went to premature death: "Oh, my +lord, my king, my mother!" and yet no one dared to lift a hand to +preserve her. + +He made several sporting excursions with the king, who was always +delighted when he shot a bird or an animal, jumping and leaping, and +shouting: "_Woh! woh! woh_!" to express his delight. One of these was +to the Lake Nyanza, after Speke had somewhat ingratiated himself with +the sovereign. It was somewhat of a picnic party, and the king was +accompanied as usual by a choice selection of his wives. Having crossed +over to a woody island some distance from the shore, the party sat down +to a repast, when large bowls of _pomba_ were served out. They then +took a walk among the trees, the ladies apparently enjoying themselves +and picking fruit, till, unhappily, one of the most attractive of them +plucked a fruit and offered it to the king, thinking, probably, to +please him. He took it, however, as a dire offence, and, declaring that +it was the first time a woman had had the audacity to offer him food, +ordered the pages to lead her off to execution. No sooner had the words +been uttered than the abominable little black imps rushed at her like a +pack of beagles, slipping off their cord turbans and throwing the ropes +round her limbs. She, indignant at being touched, remonstrated and +attempted to beat them off, but was soon overcome and dragged away, +crying out the names of "_Kamraviona! Mzungu_!" the title applied to +Speke, for help and protection, while the other women clasped the king +round the legs, imploring him to pardon their unhappy sister. His only +reply was to belabour the miserable victim with a thick stick. Speke +had carefully abstained heretofore from interfering with any of the +king's acts of arbitrary cruelty. On hearing, however, his own name +imploringly pronounced, his English blood was up, and, rushing at the +tyrant, he stayed his uplifted arm, and demanded the poor creature's +life. He, of course, ran a great risk of losing his own; but the +novelty of the event seemed to tickle the capricious chief, and he at +once ordered the woman to be released. + +This was, however, one of the only occasions on which he was successful. + +Day after day both men and women were led off to execution. On one +occasion a poor girl had run away from the ill-treatment of her master, +and had taken refuge in the house of a decrepit old man. The two were +brought up for judgment, when the king sentenced them to death, and +decreed that their lives should not be taken at once, but that they +should be fed and dismembered, bit by bit, as rations for his vultures +every day until life was extinct. The dismayed criminals, Speke says, +struggling to be heard, were dragged away to the drowning music of horns +and drums. + +After he had been some time in the palace, he was introduced to the +queen dowager. Her majesty was fat, fair, and forty-five. He found her +seated in the front part of her hut, on a carpet, her elbow resting on a +pillow. An iron rod, like a spit, with a cup on the top, charged with +magic powder, and other magic wands were placed before the entrance, and +within the room four Mabandwa sorceresses, or devil-drivers, +fantastically dressed, with a mass of other women, formed the company. +They being dismissed, a band of musicians came in, when _pomba_ was +drunk by the queen, and handed to her visitor and high officers and +attendants. She smoked her pipe, and bid Speke to smoke his. She +required doctoring, and Speke had many opportunities of seeing her, so +completely winning her regard that she insisted on presenting him with +various presents, among others a couple of wives, greatly to his +annoyance. She appeared to be a jovial and intelligent personage. On +another occasion Speke, when introduced, found her surrounded by her +ministers, when a large wooden trough was brought in and filled with +_pomba_. The queen put her head in and drank like a pig from it, her +ministers following her example. If any was spilled by her, they +dabbled their noses in the ground, or grabbed it up with their hands, +that not a particle might be lost, as everything that comes from royalty +must be adored. Musicians and dancers were then introduced, exhibiting +their long, shaggy, goat-skin jackets, sometimes dancing upright, at +others bending or striking the ground with their heels like hornpipe +dancers. + +The plaguy little imps of pages were constantly playing tricks, and +seemed to delight in mischief. + +One of the great officers of the court having offended the king, they +came with a message to Speke's attendants while he himself was away, +ordering them all to attend the king with their arms. Instead of being +led to the palace, they were guided to the house of the refractory +officer, when they were ordered to rush in and spare nothing, men, +women, children, _mbugus_, or cowries, all alike. Speke's men, firing +their guns, did as they were ordered. One of the inmates was speared, +but the rest were taken, and brought in triumph to his camp. He, of +course, ordered all the seizures to be at once given up to the king's +chief officer, and shut himself up in his house, declaring that he was +ashamed to show his face. In vain the king sent to him to come and +shoot. The reply was: "Bana" (the name by which the king called Speke) +"is praying to-day that Mtesa may be forgiven the injury he has +committed by sending his soldiers on such a duty; he is very angry about +it, and wishes to know if it was done by the kings orders." The boys +replied that nothing could be done without the king's orders. Speke +also insisted on sending the red cloth cloaks worn by his men, because +they had defiled their uniform when plundering women and children. He +took this opportunity of teaching the barbarian a lesson. + +On his next visit the king told him that he had wished to see him on the +previous day, and begged that whenever he came he would fire a gun at +the waiting hut, that he might hear of his arrival. The king was much +pleased with a portrait Speke made of him, as also with his coloured +sketches of several birds he had killed, but was still more delighted +with some European clothes, with which he was presented. When Speke +went to visit him, he found his Majesty dressed in his new garments. +The legs of the trousers, as well as the sleeves of the waistcoat, were +much too short, so that his black feet and hands stuck out at the +extremities as an organ-player's monkey's do, while the cockscomb on his +head prevented a fez cap, which he wore, from sitting properly. On this +visit twenty new wives, daughters of chiefs, all smeared and shining +with grease, were presented, marching in a line before the king, utterly +destitute of clothes, whilst the happy fathers floundered, _nynzigging_, +on the ground, delighted to find their darling daughters appreciated by +the monarch. Speke burst into a fit of laughter, which was imitated not +only by the king but by the pages, his own men chuckling in sudden +gusto, though afraid of looking up. + +The king at last returned Speke's visit. Having taken off his turban, +as Speke was accustomed to take off his hat, he seated himself on his +stool. Everything that struck his eye was admired and begged for, +though nothing seemed to please him so much as the traveller's +wide-awake and mosquito curtains. The women, who were allowed to peep +into Sana's den, received a couple of sacks of beads, to commemorate the +visit. + +A few days afterwards he was accompanying the king when an adjutant-bird +was seen in a tree. The king had a gun Speke had given him, but he had +little more than one charge of powder remaining. Speke had left his gun +at home. The king at the second shot killed the bird, greatly to his +delight, shouting his usual "_Woh! woh_!" He was so delighted that he +insisted upon carrying the bird to show to his mother. + +Before entering the palace, however, he changed his European clothes for +a white goat-skin wrapper. Directly afterwards a battalion of his army +arrived before the palace, under the command of his chief officer, whom +Speke called Colonel Congou. The king came out with spear and shield in +hand, preceded by the bird, and took post in front of the enclosure. +His troops were divided into three companies, each containing about two +hundred men. After passing in single file, they went through various +evolutions. Nothing, Speke says, could be more wild or fantastic than +the sight which ensued. The men, nearly naked, with goat or cat-skins +depending from their girdles, and smeared with war-colours according to +the taste of each individual, one half of the body red or black, the +other blue, in irregular order; as, for instance, one leg would be red, +the other black, whilst the upper part would be the opposite colours, +and so with the chest and arms. Each man carried two spears and one +shield, held as if approaching an enemy. They thus moved in three lines +of single rank and file at fifteen or twenty paces asunder, with the +same high action and elongated step, the ground leg only being bent to +give their strides the greater force. The captains of each company +followed, even more fantastically dressed. The great Colonel Congou, +with his long, whitehaired goat-skins, a fiddle-shaped leather shield, +tufted with white hair at all six extremities, bands of long hair tied +below the knees, and the helmet covered with rich beads of several +colours, surmounted with a plume of crimson feathers, from the centre of +which rose a stem, tufted with goat-hair. Finally the senior officers +came charging at their king, making violent protestations of faith and +honesty, for which they were applauded. + +Speke was now, towards the end of May, looking forward to the arrival of +Grant. + +To propitiate the despot he sent a compass, greatly to the delight of +Mtesa, who no sooner saw it than he jumped and "_wohed_" with intense +excitement, and said it was the greatest present Bana had ever given +him, for it was the thing by which he found out all the roads and +countries. + +It had been arranged that Grant should come by water; but the natives, +fearing to trust themselves on the lake, brought him all the distance on +a litter. + +At length, on the 27th, the sound of guns announced the arrival of +Grant, and Speke hurried off to meet his friend, who was now able to +limp about a little, and to laugh over the accounts he gave of his +travels. + +The travellers forthwith began to make arrangements for proceeding on to +Unyoro, governed by a chief named Kamrasi, of despicable character and +considered merciless and cruel, even among African potentates, +scattering death and torture around at the mere whim of the moment; +while he was inhospitable, covetous, and grasping, yet too cowardly to +declare war against the King of the Waganda, who had deprived him of +portions of his dominions. The Waganda people were, therefore, very +unwilling to escort the travellers into his territory; and Colonel +Congou declared that if compelled to go, he was a dead man, as he had +once led an army into Unyoro. + +The travellers' great object was to reach the spot where the Nile was +supposed to flow out of the Victoria Nyanza, and proceed down the stream +in boats. + +Speke had written to Petherick, and on the 28th of June news arrived +that white men were at Gani enquiring for the travellers. Speke +consequently informed the king that all he required was a large escort +to accompany them through Usoga and Kidi to Gani, as further delay in +communicating with Petherick might frustrate the chance of opening the +Nile trade with Uganda. The king replied that he would assemble his +officers, and consult them on the subject. He exhibited his folly, +however, by allowing his people to make an inroad into Unyoro and carry +off eighty cows belonging to Kamrasi. To their horror, Kyengo, the +chief magician, informed them that the king, being anxious to pry into +the future, had resolved to adopt a strong measure with that end in +view. This was the sacrifice of a child. The ceremony, which it fell +to the lot of Kyengo to perform, is almost too cruel to describe. The +magician, having placed a large earthen pot full of water on the fire, +arranges a platform on the top, and on this he binds a young child and a +fowl, covering them with another pot, which he inverts over them. After +the fire has burned for a given time the upper pot is removed. If both +victims are dead, it is considered that war must be deferred for the +present; but, if either should be alive, it may be commenced +immediately. When the army is about to proceed to war, the magician +flays the young child, and lays the bleeding body in the path, that the +warriors may step over it, thereby believing that they will gain +immunity for themselves in the approaching combat. + +During the expedition, which Speke made with the king to the Nyanza, +they landed on an island inhabited by a magician and his wife, who were +supposed to be priests of of the water-spirit of the lake. His head was +decorated with numerous mystic symbols, among them a paddle, the badge +of his high office. He was dressed in a little, white, goat-skin apron, +adorned by various charms, and, instead of a walking-stick to support +his steps, he used a paddle. Though not an old man, he pretended to be +so, walking slowly and deliberately, coughing and mumbling like one. +Seating himself, he continued coughing for half an hour, when his wife +came in, much in the some manner, without saying a word, and assuming +the same affected style. + +The king, who was seated near the door, with his wives behind him, asked +Speke what he thought of it. No voice was heard but that of the old +wife, who croaked like a frog for some water, and when some was brought, +croaked again because it was not the purest of the lake's produce, and +had the first cup changed, wetted her lips with the second, and hobbled +away in the same manner as she had come. + +The water-spirit's chief priest now summoned several of the king's +officers to draw round him, and then, in a low voice, gave them all the +orders of the deep, and walked away. His revelations appeared to have +been unpropitious, for the party immediately repaired to their boats and +returned to their quarters. + +During this excursion, the king went off on the lake, leaving Speke by +himself on shore. He took the opportunity of visiting an hospitable old +lady, who treated him and his attendants to the last drop of _pomba_ in +her house, smoking her pipe with him, and did not hesitate to speak of +the horrors of the Uganda punishments. When his servant told her that +he had saved the life of one of the women, she seemed astonished at the +daring of the stranger and at the leniency of the monarch. The king's +servants had robbed her of nearly everything in her house. + +The most barbarous orders of the despot are obeyed with the utmost +alacrity by his officers, who would to a certainty, if they hesitated, +be themselves put to death. His horrible little pages are his chief +emissaries. At his command a dozen start off together, each striving to +outrun the others, their dresses, streaming in the wind, giving them the +resemblance at a distance of a flight of birds. On one occasion, Speke +having given Mtesa a rifle, the king, after examining the weapon, loaded +it and told a page to go out and shoot some one, to ascertain if it +would kill well. In a moment a report was heard, and the urchin came +back grinning with delight at his achievement, just like a schoolboy who +has shot his first sparrow. Nothing was heard about the unfortunate +wretch who had served as a target, the murder of a man being by far too +common an incident to attract notice. + +Many of the people expressed the greatest horror of the king's cruelty; +but all his subjects were abject slaves, and no union existed among them +which would have afforded them any hope in rebellion or in bringing +about a better state of things. + + + +CHAPTER SEVENTEEN. + +SPEKE AND GRANT'S TRAVELS CONCLUDED. + +SET OUT FOR KAMRASI--ATTACKED BY THE WAGANDA--REACH THE NILE--THE ISAMBA +RAPIDS--THE RIPPON FALLS--THE SOURCE OF THE NILE--RETURNS TO +URONDOGANI--THREATENED DESTRUCTION--MARCH FOR UNYORO--KAMRASI'S +RECEPTION--THE MAGICIAN AT WORK--KAMRASI RECEIVES A BIBLE--LEAVE +KAMRASI, AND PROCEED DOWN THE KUFFO TO THE FALLS OF KARUMA--THE GANI +PEOPLE--THE MADI--ARRIVE AT PETHERICK'S OUTPOSTS--SPEKE AGAIN SETS OUT-- +THE BARI COUNTRY--GONDOKORO AND NILE BOATS SEEN--SIR SAMUEL BAKER-- +VOYAGE DOWN THE NILE TO KHARTOUM--A BANQUET--BERBER--ARRIVE AT LENGTH IN +ENGLAND. + +By the 7th of July the arrangements for their journey were made. The +king presented them with a herd of cows for their provisions, as well as +some robes of honour and spears, and he himself came out with his wives +to see them off. Speke ordered his men to turn out under arms and +_nynzig_ for the favours received. Mtesa complimented them on their +goodly appearance and exhorted them to follow their leader through fire +and water, saying that, with such a force, they would have no difficulty +in reaching Gani. + +It was arranged that Grant should go on to Kamrasi direct, with the +property, cattle, etcetera, while Speke should go by the river to +examine its exit from the lake, and come down again, navigating as far +as practicable. + +They now commenced their march down the northern slopes of Africa, +escorted by a band of Waganda troops, under the command of Kasora, a +young chief. They had proceeded onwards some days, when Kari, one of +Speke's men, had been induced to accompany some of the Waganda escort to +a certain village of potters, to obtain pots for making plantain wine. +On nearing the place, the inhabitants rushed out. The Waganda men +escaped, but Kari, whose gun was unloaded, stood still, pointing his +weapon, when the people, believing it to be a magic horn, speared him to +death, and then fled. + +On the 21st, after passing through a country covered with jungle, Speke +reached the banks of the Nile. The shores on either side had the +appearance of a highly-kept park. Before him was a magnificent stream, +six or seven hundred yards wide, dotted with islets and rocks--the +former occupied by fishermen's huts, the latter by sterns and +crocodiles, basking in the sun--flowing between fine, high, grassy +banks, covered with trees and plantations. In the background herds of +_nsunnu_ and harte-beestes could be seen grazing, while the hippopotami +were snorting in the water, Florican and Guinea fowl rising at their +feet. Here Speke had some fine sport, killing _nsunnu_ and other deer. + +The chief of the district received them courteously, and accompanied +Speke to the Isamba Rapids. + +"The water ran deep between its banks, which were covered with fine +grass, soft cloudy acacias, and festoons of lilac convolvuli; while here +and there, where the land had slipped above the rapids, bare places of +red earth could be seen like that of Devonshire. There, too, the +waters, impeded by a natural dam, looked like a huge mill-pond, sullen +and dark, in which two crocodiles, floating about, were looking out for +prey." From the high banks Speke looked down upon a line of sloping +wooded islets lying across the stream, which, by dividing its waters, +became at once both dam and rapids. "The whole scene was fairy-like, +wild, and romantic in the extreme," says Captain Speke. + +Proceeding southward they reached the Rippon Falls on the 28th, by far +the most interesting sight he had seen in Africa. + +"Though beautiful, the scene was not exactly what I expected, for the +broad surface of the lake was shut out from view by a spur of hill, and +the falls, about twelve feet deep and four to five hundred feet broad, +were broken by rocks; still it was a sight that attracted one to it for +hours. The roar of the waters, the thousands of passenger fish leaping +at the falls with all their might, the fishermen coming out in boats, +and taking post on all the rocks with rod and hook, hippopotami and +crocodiles lying sleepily on the water, the ferry at work above the +falls, and cattle driven down to drink at the margin of the lake, made +in all, with the pretty nature of the country--small grassy-topped +hills, with trees in the intervening valleys and on the lower slopes--as +interesting a picture as one could wish to see." + +Here, then, he had arrived at what he considered the source of the +Nile--that is, the point from where it makes its exit from the Victoria +Nyanza; and he calculated that the whole length of the river is, thus +measuring from the south end of the lake, two thousand three hundred +miles. + +He and his party now returned northward, and reached Urondogani again on +the 5th of August. The difficulty was next to obtain boats. The +fishermen, finding that the strangers were to be supplied with fish by +the king's order, ran away, though the cows they had brought furnished +the travellers with food. At length five boats, composed of five planks +lashed together and caulked with rags, were forthcoming. Speke, with +his attendants, Kasora, and his followers embarked, carrying goats, +dogs, and kit, besides grain and dried meat. No one, however, knew how +many days it would take to perform the voyage. + +Tall rushes grew on either side of the broad river, which had in places +a lake-like appearance. The idle crew paddled slowly, amusing +themselves by sometimes dashing forward, and then resting, while Kasora +had the folly to attack the boats of Wanyoro he met coming up the river. + +The frontier line was crossed on the 14th, but they had not proceeded +far when they saw an enormous canoe of Kamrasi's, full of well-armed +men, approaching them. The canoe turned, as if the people were afraid, +and the Waganda followed. At length, however, the chased canoe turned, +and the shore was soon lined with armed men, threatening them with +destruction. Another canoe now appeared. It was getting dark. The +only hope of escape seemed by retreating. Speke ordered his fleet to +keep together, promising ammunition to his men if they would fight. The +people in one boat, however, were so frightened that they allowed her to +spin round and round in the current. The Wanyoro were stealing on them, +as they could hear, though nothing could be seen. One of the boats kept +in-shore, close to the reeds, when suddenly she was caught by +grappling-hooks. The men cried out: "Help, Bana! they are killing us." +Speke roared in reply: "Go in, and the victory will be ours." When, +however, three shots were fired from the hooked boat, the Wanyoro fled, +leaving one of their number killed and one wounded, and Speke and his +party were allowed to retreat unmolested. + +Speke, after proceeding up the river some distance, determined to +continue the journey by land, following the track Grant had taken. + +Grant's camp was reached on the 20th, and the next day a messenger +arrived from Kamrasi, saying that the king would be glad to see them, +and the march was ordered to Unyoro. + +The frontier was again passed, when the country changed much for the +worse. Scanty villages, low huts, dirty-looking people clad in skins, +the plantain, sweet potato, _sesamum_, and millet forming the chief +edibles, besides goats and fowls. No hills, except a few scattered +cones, broke the level surface of the land, and no pretty views cheered +the eye. They were now getting to a distance from the rain-attractive +influences of the Mountains of the Moon, and vegetation decreased +proportionately. Their first halt was on the estate of the chief +Kidjwiga. Scarcely had they been established than a messenger page from +Mtesa, with a party of fifty Waganda, arrived to enquire how Bana was, +and to remind him of the gun and other articles he had promised to send +up from Gani. + +The natives ran off as they passed through the country, believing them +to be cannibals. They supposed that the iron boxes which the porters +carried on their shoulders each contained a couple of white dwarfs, +which were allowed to fly off to eat people. They, however, gained +confidence, and soon flocked round the Englishmen's huts. + +On arriving at the end of their day's march on the 2nd of September, +they were told that elephants had been seen close by. Grant and Speke, +therefore, sallied forth with their guns, and found a herd of about a +hundred, feeding on a plain of long grass. Speke, by stealing along +under cover of the high grass, got close to a herd, and fired at the +largest. The animals began sniffing the air with uplifted trunks, when, +ascertaining by the smell of powder that their enemy was in front of +them, they rolled up their trunks, and came close to the spot where he +was lying under a mound. Suddenly they stopped, catching scent of the +white man, and lifting their heads high, looked down upon him. Speke +was now in a dangerous position, for, unable to get a proper front shot +at any of them, he expected to be picked up or trodden to death. As he +let fly at their temples, they turned round and went rushing away at a +much faster pace than they came. They, however, soon stopped, and began +to graze again. Though several were wounded, none were killed. + +Bombay was now despatched to King Kamrasi, with a request from the +travellers for an early interview. Goats, flour, and plantains were +brought to them, and Kidjwiga became very indignant that the flour was +not all given to him, as he, having been appointed their guide and +protector, considered that it ought to have been. + +At last they received an invitation from Kamrasi. As on a previous +occasion, only some dirty huts were offered to Speke. He insisted on +being lodged in the palace. Bombay, who had been kept there, now +arrived, and they were informed that better accommodation was preparing +for them. The king had been very communicative to Bombay. + +The monarch, however, got tipsy, and was consequently unable to receive +his guests. Next day he sent some _pomba_, fowls, and plantains as a +present. + +They were, however, after this still kept waiting several days. At last +Speke sent to say that if the king did not wish to see the white men, +they would proceed on their journey to Gani. This had the desired +effect; and, in their usual style, with the Union Jack floating above +their heads, they approached the palace. + +They found the monarch seated on a wooden stool, with cow-skins below +and leopards' above, on an elevated platform of grass, looking like a +pope in state, calm and motionless. His arms were adorned with +brass-wire rings, and his hair was worked up into peppercorn-like knobs; +his eyes were of a long shape, his face narrow, and nose prominent; yet, +though a well-made man, being above six feet high, he was inferior in +size to Rumanika. + +Speke endeavoured to impress on the stupid-headed king that his only +object was to open up a communication along the Nile, by which boats +could bring up the produce and manufactures of other countries, to +exchange with his ivory. + +The king evidently wished to detain them, in order that they might +assist him in putting down an insurrection which his two brothers had +raised against him. At last they determined to send Bombay on to +ascertain whether boats were really waiting for them. + +Kamrasi was as eager to obtain gifts as any of the other chiefs, and, +having heard of their chronometer, which they had been observed using, +he was especially desirous to possess it, believing it to be some magic +instrument, and the means by which the travellers guided themselves +about the country. Speke told him that it was not his guide, but a +time-keeper, made for the purpose of knowing at what time to eat his +dinner. He told him it was the only one he possessed, but that, if he +would wait with patience, he would send him up one on his arrival at +Gani. He was too eager to possess the wonderful instrument to consent +to delay, and at last Speke, to satisfy him, placed it on the ground and +said it was his. He said he should like to buy another, and was +surprised to hear that it would cost five hundred cows. This increased +the surprise of the whole party, who could not believe that any person +in his senses would give five hundred cows for the mere gratification of +seeing at what time his dinner should be eaten. + +Kamrasi was a thorough tyrant, and, at the same time, an arrant coward. +He kept up a perfect system of espionage, by which he knew everything +going forward in the country. His guards, in order that they might be +attached to his person, were allowed to plunder at will the rest of his +unfortunate subjects, who, if they offended him, were put to death +without mercy. If an officer failed to give him information, he was +executed or placed in the shoe, an instrument of torture not unlike the +stocks. It consists of a heavy log of wood, with an oblong slit through +it; the feet are placed in this slit, and a peg is then driven through +the log between the ankles, so as to hold them tightly. Frequently the +executioner drives the peg against the ankles, when the pain is so +excessive that the victim generally dies from exhaustion. + +After the travellers had moved into better quarters, they were told that +Kamrasi intended to pay them a visit. The room was accordingly prepared +for his reception--hung around with mats, horns, and skins of animals, +and a large box, covered with a red blanket, was placed as a throne for +him to sit on. Speke then called out his men to form a guard of honour, +and ordered them to fire as soon as he appeared. No sooner did he +arrive than he wanted everything he saw: first their gauze mosquito +curtains, then an iron camp bed, next the sextant and thermometer. When +any books were shown him of birds and animals he wanted them, and was +much surprised when Speke positively refused. The important question +was put to him whether he would wish English traders to come up to his +country, and, in reply, he answered that it was what he desired above +all things; but, if the English would advance with guns, he would march +out with his army, and that, between them, his brothers, who were now +acting in rebellion, would be destroyed. He was evidently, however, +very angry at receiving no presents, and, getting up, walked straight +out of the hut. No _pomba_ was sent by him next day. They, however, +presented him with a gun. At first he was much afraid of firing it off, +and called one of Speke's men to do it for him. + +One morning they found that their rain-guage had been removed, so they +sent Kidjwiga to say that they wished a magician to come at once and +institute a search for it. He soon returned with the adept: "An old +man, nearly blind, dressed in strips of old leather fastened to the +waist, and carrying in one hand a cow's horn primed with magic powder, +carefully covered on the mouth with leather, from which dangled an iron +bell. The old creature jingled the bell, entered their hut, squatted on +his hams, looked first at one and then at the other, enquired what the +missing things were like, grunted, moved his skinny arm round his head +as if desirous to catch the air from all four sides of the hut, then +dashed the accumulated air on the head of his horn, smelt it to see if +all was going right, jingled the bell again close to his ear, and +grunted his satisfaction. The missing article must be found. To carry +out the incantation more effectually, all the men were sent for to sit +in the open air before the hut, when the old doctor rose, shaking the +horn and tinkling the bell close to his ear. He then, confronting one +of the men, dashed the horn forward as if intending to strike him on the +face, then smelt the head and dashed it at another, and so on, till he +became satisfied that Speke's men were not the thieves. He then walked +into Grant's hut, inspected that, and, finally, went to the place where +the bottle had been kept. There he walked about the grass with his arm +up, and jingling the bell to his ear, first on one side and then on the +other, till the track of a hyaena gave him a clue, and in two or three +more steps he found it. A hyaena had carried it into the grass and +dropped it. Bravo for the infallible horn, and well done the king for +his honesty in sending it. Speke gave the king the bottle and gauge, +which delighted him amazingly, and the old doctor, who begged for +_pomba_, got a goat for his trouble." + +News reached them soon after this of the death of Budja, one of the +officers who had attended them, and who it was said had died from being +bewitched by a charm put into a pot of _pomba_ by one of Kamrasi's +frontier officers, the poor fellow having evidently been poisoned. + +The travellers were now in some anxiety about Bombay, who had not +returned from Gani. They received intelligence that the coronation +formalities of Mtesa were taking place, when upwards of thirty of his +brothers were to be burned to death. + +Kamrasi had been presented with a Bible. As soon as he got hold of it, +he began to count the leaves, supposing that each page or leaf +represented one year of time since the beginning of creation. After +getting through a quarter of the book, he shut it up, on being told that +if he desired to ascertain the number more closely he had better count +the words. + +Six weeks had been uselessly spent, when at length Bombay returned, his +attendants dressed in cotton jumpers and drawers, presents given them by +Petherick's outposts, though Petherick himself was not there. The +journey to and fro had been performed in fourteen days' actual +travelling, the rest of the time being frittered away by the guides. + +Two hundred Turks were stationed at Gani, who were all armed with +elephant-guns, and had killed sixteen elephants. + +On this, Speke sent a present to Kamrasi, and prepared for his +departure. The king, however, complained that he had not received +enough, and insisted on having the chronometer. He had himself sent a +present of spears; but Speke refused to accept them unless permission +for his departure was given. The only way indeed to treat these black +potentates is to act with the greatest firmness and determination. + +At last the king promised to give them a parting interview, and to send +a large escort to accompany them to Petherick's boats. Several days, +however, passed before the interview took place, when the king again +asked for more presents, and even begged for the rings which he saw on +Grant's fingers, but without success. Speke had wished to take two of +the king's sons to be educated in England, but instead, he sent two +orphan boys, who, being both of the common negro breed, were so +unattractive in appearance that Speke declined receiving them. They had +been kept the whole time almost as prisoners, without being allowed by +the suspicious king to move about the neighbourhood, while no one had +been permitted to visit them. They were therefore thankful when at last +they persuaded the savage monarch to allow them to take their departure. +Canoes had been provided, and on the 9th of November they embarked in +one of them on the river Kuffo. Crowds were collected on the banks to +see them depart, shouting and waving adieus as they shot down the +stream. Among them was the only lady of rank they had seen, dressed in +yellow bark cloth, striped with black; she was flat-featured and plain. +Their canoes were formed of logs bound together. + +Proceeding down the Kuffo, they entered, a few miles below Kamrasi's +residence, the White Nile, down which they floated four days to the +Falls of Karuma. The river had the appearance of a large lake, and +without a pilot they would have found it impossible to guess what +direction to take. It then assumed the appearance of a river a thousand +yards wide, covered with numberless moving and stationary islands, +amidst which hippopotami reared their heads. These islands were perfect +thickets of thorns, creepers, and small trees. Some went rolling round +and round, moved by the stream, which ran at the rate of a mile an hour. +Amidst them were seen the lofty papyrus, bending to the breeze, which +as they drove on, continually changing their relative positions, looked +like a fleet of felucca-rigged vessels. + +On the third day, a strong breeze coming on, these floating islands +melted away or were driven on shore. They landed every evening to +sleep, having to push their way between a wide belt of reeds, rushes, +and convolvuli. + +They passed some attractive scenery. In one place a hill rose eight +hundred feet above the water, and on the Kidi side the ground was +undulating and wild, covered with handsome trees, with flowering +creepers clinging to their boughs, now in rich bloom and presenting +every variety of colour. + +The king having given his officers directions to supply the travellers +with food, they had some exciting chases after canoes, which took to +flight as soon as their object was discovered. No sooner was one +overtaken than their Wanyoro escort robbed her of bark, cloth, liquor, +beads, spears, and everything on board, the poor owners being utterly +helpless. Their Seedees, however, seeing the injustice of this, +recovered the stolen property, and restored it to the proper owners. + +Their cattle and the main body of their escort had gone by land. + +On the 19th of November they reached the Karuma Falls, so-called, the +blacks say, because the familiar of a certain great spirit placed stones +across the river to break its waters as they flow down, and, as a reward +for his services, the spot was called after him. + +They were here kept some days, preparing to cross the Kidi wilderness. + +They were still in the territories of Kamrasi. The governor of the +district, a very great man, who sits on a throne only a little inferior +to the king's, called upon them, and was provided accordingly with a box +on which to rest. His idea was that his own people had been once half +black and half white. He could only account for it by supposing that +the country formerly belonged to white men, who had been driven out by +the blacks, and that the former were now coming back to retake it. The +travellers relieved his apprehensions by telling him that his ancestors +were all at one time white, till they crossed the sea and took +possession of the country. + +Before they started, Kidjwiga sacrificed two kids, one on each side of +the river, flaying them, with one long cut, each down their breasts and +bellies; the animals were then spread eagle-fashion on the grass, that +the travellers might step over them and obtain a prosperous journey. + +A messenger arrived from the king urging them to stop, as he was afraid +that his rebel brother, Rehonga, might attack them; but they, believing +that he had interested motives, commenced their march. The day was +rainy, and the road lay across swamps, through thick jungle and long +grasses. This continued for a couple of days, when, at length, they +found themselves on the borders of a high plateau. Elephants and +buffaloes were seen, and the guide, to make the journey propitious, +plucked a twig, stripped off the leaves and branches, and, waving it up +the line of march, broke it in two, and threw portions on either side of +the path. + +They had, however, again quickly to plunge into the tall grass, above +their heads, and to cross numerous swamps. + +On the 29th they reached the habitations of men at Koki, in Gani--a +collection of conical huts on the ridge of a small chain of hills. +Knots of naked men were seen perched like monkeys on the granite blocks, +anxiously watching their arrival. A messenger was sent to the governor, +Chongi, who despatched the principal people in the place to welcome +them. These people, covered with war paint--something like clowns in a +fair--rushed down the hill with their spears full tilt, and, performing +various evolutions, conducted them to the governor, who advanced, +attended by his familiar--he holding a white hen, the latter a gourd of +_pomba_ and a little twig. + +The chief, having greeted them cordially, and swinging the fowl by one +leg and sprinkling the contents of the gourd over them, led them to his +magic-house, which being sprinkled in the same way, he finally spread a +cow-skin under a tree, bidding them sit on it, and then presented them +with a bowl of _pomba_. + +These people were entirely naked, but were covered with beads and brass +ornaments, even the women having only a few fibres hanging like tails +before and behind. Their hair was dressed in the most fantastic +fashion. They also carried diminutive stools, on which they sat +wherever they went. + +The travellers had great difficulty, in getting porters, who would never +agree until the king's soldiers had seized their women and cattle, and +they frequently had to zig-zag from village to village to obtain them. + +These curious people might be seen sitting on the rocks or in the shade +of the trees, dressing each other's hair or forming their pigtails, +which are turned up and covered with fine wire. Indeed, they seemed to +have little else to do, and were generally observed standing in +conceited or ridiculous attitudes. The children are carried on the +backs of the women, supported by straps, and the head of the infant is +shaded by a reversed gourd from the heat of the sun. + +The country had assumed a more attractive appearance, with forests, +undulating ground covered with grass, and clusters of habitations, +frequently intercepted by running streams. + +The party had now entered the country of the Madi, who are savage in +their appearance, and are similar to the Gani. Their houses are +cylinders of bamboo wicker-work, with steep roofs of bamboo and grass, +and are plastered inside, making them very warm. + +On the 3rd of December, having pushed on in spite of the attempts of the +friendly chiefs to detain them, they came in sight of what they supposed +to be Petherick's outposts, in north latitude 3 degrees 10 minutes 33 +seconds. The Seedees immediately began firing away their carbines. +Directly afterwards bang, crack, bang! was heard from the distant camp, +when, in an instant, every height was seen covered with men. The +travellers and their attendants hastened on, when before them appeared +three large red flags, heading a military procession which marched out +of the camp, with drums and fifes playing. Speke's party halted, when a +black officer, Mahamed, in Egyptian regimentals, hastened from the head +of his ragamuffin regiment, a mixture of Nubians, Egyptians, and slaves +of all sorts, which he had ordered to halt, and, throwing himself into +Speke's arms, began to hug and kiss him. + +Petherick was enquired for. "He is coming," was the answer. "What +colours are those?" + +"Oh, they are Debono's." + +"Who is Debono?" was asked. "The same as Petric," answered Mahamed. + +Mahamed soon had dinner for them, and they enjoyed a better repast than +they had done for many a day. Then the greatest treat was to come-- +water with which to wash their hands, and the luxury of soap. The +remains of their repast was then placed before their faithful Seedees. + +On retiring to their hut at night they offered up a prayer of +thankfulness to the Almighty for having preserved them through so many +difficulties, and at length, by His all-protecting arm, brought them in +safety to the boundary of civilisation after twenty-six months of +unceasing toil and anxiety. They had still, however, a considerable +distance to march before they were to meet with civilised men. + +Their host, Mahamed, was little better than a land pirate, who plundered +and shot down the natives without compunction. Among his troops there +was not a true Turk, wool predominating on their heads. They were +adventurers, born from negro stock in the most southern Egyptian +dominions. Numbers of such characters are found at Khartoum, ready for +any employment. The merchants engage them there, and send them into the +interior under the command of a chief to collect ivory and slaves. They +were all married to women of the country, whom they had dressed in +cloths and beads. + +Mahamed, like the black chiefs, wished to detain the travellers, that +they and their party might guard his camp, while he went off on an +expedition on his own account. He succeeded by depriving them of their +porters, and then marched out with his army--drums and fifes playing, +colours flying, guns firing, officers riding, some on donkeys, others on +cows. On the 31st the army returned, after having burned down and +plundered three villages, laden with ivory and driving in four slave +girls and thirty head of cattle. + +A few days afterwards another example of Turkish barbarity came under +their notice. The head man of a village arrived with a large tusk of +ivory with which to ransom his daughter. Fortunately for him it had +been considered by the Turks wise to keep on terms with so influential a +man; and therefore, on receiving the tusk, Mahamed gave back the damsel, +adding a cow to seal their friendship. + +At length, weary of Mahamed's procrastination, on the 11th of January +Speke ordered the march, telling Mahamed he might follow if he wished. + +At first the villagers, supposing that the travellers were Turks, made +their escape in every direction, carrying what stores and cattle they +could; while others pulled down their huts, and marched off with the +materials to a distant site, to escape from their persecutors. + +The people do this because the Turks, when they arrive at a village, +often pull down the huts and carry off the roofs to form a camp for +themselves outside the enclosure. + +They also without ceremony rob the corn-stores, and should the owner +remonstrate, he is knocked down with the butt of a musket, and told he +is fortunate to escape being shot. + +Finding that Speke was determined to move, Mahamed broke up his camp, +the whole party, including porters to carry the ivory tusks, amounting +to nearly a thousand men. + +The Turks, as they marched along, helped themselves from the half-filled +bins of the unfortunate natives, who were starving, while the chiefs at +the different villages were quarrelling among themselves. + +One night a party of warriors from another place appeared in front of +the village near which they were encamped, and the next morning the +villagers turned out and killed two of them. The enemy, as they +retired, cried out that as soon as the guns were gone the villagers must +look out for themselves. + +Speke and Grant, however, kept their own pots boiling by shooting +antelopes and other game. The Turks ate anything they could get hold +of. Greatly to the disgust of the Seedees, they devoured a crocodile +which was killed; they also feasted off crocodiles' eggs. + +They were now passing through the Bari country. Villages were numerous, +but the inhabitants fled as soon as they appeared. Whenever the Turks +halted, they sacked the villages of provisions. + +At Doro, which they reached on the 13th of February, the Turks having +plundered the nearest villages, the natives turned out with their arms, +and war drums were beaten as a sign that they intended to attack the +camp. As soon as darkness set in, they attempted to steal into the +camp, but, being frightened off by the patrols, hundreds collected in +front and set fire to the grass, brandishing torches in their hands, +howling like demons, and swearing that they would annihilate their +enemies in the morning. + +On the 15th of February the travellers approached Gondokoro, and to +their delight saw in the distance a white speck, which marked the +position of the Austrian mission-house. Soon afterwards the masts of +the Nile boats could be seen. + +The Toorkees halting to fire a _feu de joie_, the party marched in +together. + +While making enquiries for Petherick, they caught sight of a sturdy +English figure approaching them. Uttering a hearty cheer and waving +their hats, they rushed forward and, greatly to their delight, found +themselves shaking hands with Mr, now Sir Samuel, Baker, the elephant +hunter of Ceylon, who had bravely come out in search of them. + +They had had no news from England later than April, 1860, and it was now +February, 1863. It was believed in England that they never would have +been able to get through the savage tribes. They had reason to be +grateful for the kind sympathy of their friends and countrymen. + +The long-looked-for Petherick was away on a trading expedition, and had, +as yet, made no attempt to succour them. + +They waited at Gondokoro till the 26th, that Speke might ascertain, by +lunar observation, the longitude, which was 31 degrees 46 minutes 9 +seconds east, the latitude being 4 degrees 54 minutes 5 seconds north. +The thermometer ranged between 94 degrees and 100 degrees in the shade. +The climate was considered better than that of Khartoum. + +While Mr Baker, accompanied by his devoted wife, continued his journey +southward, they proceeded down the Nile in his boats to Khartoum. + +At Gondokoro an Austrian mission has been established for thirty years; +but, owing to utter want of success, it was now about to be abandoned. + +They here found three Dutch ladies--the Baroness Capellen, Madame Tinne, +and her daughter--who had, in the most spirited way, come up the Nile in +a steamer for the purpose of assisting them, intending to proceed +overland to Fernando Po. + +They had, while at Gondokoro, been shocked by seeing a number of slaves, +attacked by small-pox, thrown overboard by the native traders. These +noble and philanthropic ladies had rescued some of the unfortunate +natives from slavery. Unhappily, overcome by the climate, Madame Tinne +and most of her companions some time afterwards died, and their proposed +expedition was arrested. + +The voyage down the Nile to Khartoum took from the 26th of February to +the 30th of March, and was performed in a _diabeah_, the usual Nile +boat, the after part being covered with a deck, on which was built a +comfortable poop cabin. Their Seedees followed them in two large boats. +They were hospitably welcomed by Ali Bey, and by a number of European +and Turkish inhabitants. + +They now felt themselves in a civilised country. Fifty years ago +Khartoum was a mere military post on the Egyptian frontier; it now +contains quarters for fifteen thousand troops. + +At a banquet, given in their honour by an Italian hunter, Monsieur +Debono, upwards of twenty gentlemen and four ladies were present. They +here met also Mr Aipperly, a minister of the Pilgrim Mission from the +Swiss Protestant Church. He was stationed at Gallabat, and, having +learned blacksmith's work and other trades, he was able to make friends +with the natives by assisting them to put up their irrigation wheels and +other carpenter's work. + +Among other interesting places they visited was a Coptic church. In the +centre was a desk, at which a man was reading aloud to a number of other +persons wearing large turbans, their shoes placed on one side, and +several children, all sitting on a carpet, listening devoutly. On the +walls were draperies and pictures of the Saviour, and within a doorway +was a high altar, covered with a cloth marked with the figure of the +cross. The service was in Arabic. A handsome old man entered, bearing +a staff surmounted by a golden cross. After kneeling at the altar, he +invited the strangers to his house to have coffee. Grant says that he +never saw a finer face than that of this venerable Copt, Gabriel by +name, who is at the head of the Coptic Church at Khartoum. + +They left Khartoum on the 15th of April, and continued their journey +down to Berber by water. Here they landed, and had a fatiguing camel +ride across the desert to a place called Korosko, whence they continued +it by water to Cairo. Here they were to part from their faithful +Seedees, of whom Bombay was appointed captain. The Seedees received +three years' pay, and an order for a freeman's garden to be purchased +for them at Zanzibar, when each man was to receive ten dollars more as +soon as he could find a wife. They ultimately, after many adventures, +reached their destination. + +The two travellers, whose adventures we have thus far followed, embarked +for England, on the 4th of June, on board the "Pera," where they safely +arrived, after an absence of eleven hundred and forty-six days. + +His friends had shortly afterwards to mourn Captain Speke's untimely +death, from his gun accidentally going off while at shooting. His +gallant companion, now Colonel Grant, survives. + +Although not, as he supposed, the discoverer of the remotest source of +the Nile, Speke was undoubtedly the first European who saw the Victoria +Nyanza, while the adventurous and hazardous journey he and Grant +performed together deservedly places them in the first rank of African +travellers. They also opened up an extensive and rich district hitherto +totally unknown, into which the blessings of Christianity and commerce +may, in a few years, be introduced. It is to be hoped that King +Rumanika, the most intelligent ruler with whom they came in contact, +still survives, as he would afford a cordial welcome both to +missionaries and legitimate traders, and his beautiful and healthy +country might become the centre of civilisation in that part of Eastern +Africa. Were a mission sent to him by way of Zanzibar, backed by a body +of disciplined, well-armed men, he would probably greatly assist in +clearing the district intervening between the north of his dominions and +that lately brought under subjection by Sir Samuel Baker, and a speedy +end might be put to the horrible cruelties of the barbarous Mtesa, King +of Uganda. It is sad to reflect, however, that while Mahommedan Turks +and Arabs are allowed to range at will over the wide regions of Africa +and proselytise the heathen, so few Christian merchants or missionaries +have made their way into the interior with the advantages their superior +civilisation and pure faith would bestow on the hapless inhabitants. + +We may yet hope with Captain Burton that, "as the remote is gradually +drawn nigh, and the difficult becomes accessible, the intercourse of +man--strongest instrument of civilisation in the hands of Providence-- +will raise Africa to that place in the great republic of nations, from +which she has hitherto been unhappily excluded." + + + +CHAPTER EIGHTEEN. + +TRAVELS OF DR. LIVINGSTONE--FIRST EXPEDITION. + +HIS PARENTAGE AND EARLY LIFE--SETS OUT FOR AFRICA AS A MISSIONARY FROM +THE LONDON MISSIONARY SOCIETY--ARRIVES AT CAPE TOWN--LEPELOLE--MABOTSA-- +SECHELE--DR. LIVINGSTONE FINDS HIM AT KOLOBENG--A MISSIONARY'S NECESSARY +ACCOMPLISHMENTS--THE KALAHARA DESERT DESCRIBED--STARTING--THE BANKS OF +THE ZOUGA--LAKE NGAMI--RETURN TO KOLOBENG--RETURN TO LAKE NGAMI--FEVER-- +SET OUT AGAIN AND REACH THE CHOBE--SEBITUANE--BANKS OF THE ZAMBESI-- +RETURNS TO KOLOBENG--ARRIVES AT CAPE TOWN, WHERE HIS WIFE AND CHILDREN +EMBARK FOR ENGLAND--REACHES KURUMAN--THE DUTCH BOERS--LINYANTI--RECEIVED +BY THE MAKOLOLO--FEVER. + +David Livingstone comes of a race whose chief pride was that they were +honest men. His great grandfather fell at the battle of Culloden. His +grandfather was a small farmer in Ulva, one of the western islands of +Scotland. Here his father was born, but his grandfather after that +event migrated to a large cotton factory at the Blantyre Works, situated +on the Clyde, above Glasgow. His uncles all entered His Majesty's +service either as soldiers or sailors, but his father remained at home, +and his mother, being a thrifty housewife, in order to make the two ends +meet, sent her son David, at the age of ten, to the factory as a piecer. + +He was fond of study, and with part of his first week's wages he +purchased "Ruddiman's Rudiments of Latin," and for many years afterwards +studied that language at an evening school after his work was done. He +also, when promoted at the age of nineteen to cotton-spinning, took his +books to the factory, and read by placing one of them on a portion of +the spinning-jenny, so that he could catch sentence after sentence as he +passed at his work. He was well paid, however, and having determined to +prepare himself for becoming a medical missionary in China, was enabled, +by working with his hands in summer, to support himself while attending +medical and Greek classes in Glasgow in winter, as also the divinity +lectures of Dr Wardlow. He was thus able to pass the required +examinations, and was at length admitted a licentiate of the Faculty of +Physicians and Surgeons. + +The war in China preventing him from proceeding thither, he offered +himself as a missionary to the London Missionary Society, and embarked +for Africa in 1840. + +After reaching Cape Town, he went round to Algoa Bay, whence he +proceeded about eight hundred miles into the interior to Kuruman, the +missionary station of the Reverend R. Moffat, whose daughter he +afterwards married. + +Thence he went to Lepelole, where, to gain a knowledge of the language +and habits of the inhabitants, the Bakwains, he cut himself off from +European society for six months. The Bakwains, however, being driven by +another tribe from their country, he was unable, as he had intended, to +form a station at that place. + +He was more successful at Mabotsa, also inhabited by the Bakwains, to +which place he removed in 1843. It was here, while in chase of a lion, +that he nearly lost his life. He had fired both the barrels of his gun, +and was re-loading, when the lion, though desperately wounded, sprang +upon him, catching his shoulder, both man and beast coming to the ground +together. Growling horribly, the fierce brute shook the doctor as a +terrier dog does a rat. The shock produced a stupor similar to that +which seems to be felt by a mouse after the first shake of a cat. The +gun of his companion, a native schoolmaster, who came to his assistance, +missed fire, when the lion, leaving Dr Livingstone, attacked him. +Another native came up with a spear, when the lion flew at him also, but +the bullets at that moment taking effect, the fierce brute fell down +dead. + +The chief of the Bakwains, Sechele, became a Christian, and exerted +himself for the conversion of his people, restoring his wives to their +fathers, and living in every respect a thoroughly consistent life. + +The Dutch Boers, who had pushed forward to the confines of the country, +proved, however, most adverse to the success of the mission, by carrying +off the natives and compelling them to labour as slaves. + +By the advice of Dr Laidley, Sechele and his people moved to Kolobeng, +a stream about two hundred miles to the north of Kuruman, where Dr +Livingstone formed a station. + +He here built a house with his own hands, having learned carpentering +and gardening from Mr Moffat, as also blacksmith work. He had now +become handy at almost any trade, in addition to doctoring and +preaching, and, as his wife could make candles, soap, and clothes, they +possessed what may be considered the indispensable accomplishments of a +missionary family in Central Africa. + +Among the gentlemen who had visited the station was Mr Oswell, in the +East India Company's service. He deserves to take rank as an African +traveller. Hearing that Dr Livingstone purposed crossing the Kalahara +Desert in search of the great Lake Ngami, long known to exist, he came +from India on purpose to join him, accompanied by Mr Murray, +volunteering to pay the entire expenses of the guides. + +The Kalahara, though called a desert from being composed of soft sand +and being destitute of water, supports prodigious herds of antelopes, +while numbers of elephants, rhinoceros, lions, hyenas, and other animals +roam over it. They find support from the astonishing quantity of grass +which grows in the region, as also from a species of water-melon, and +from several tuberous roots, the most curious of which is the +_leroshua_, as large as the head of a young child, and filled with a +fluid like that of a turnip. Another, the _mokuri_, an herbaceous +creeper, the tubers of which, as large as a man's head, it deposits in a +circle of a yard or more horizontally from the stem. On the +water-melons especially, the elephants and other wild animals revel +luxuriously. + +Such was the desert Dr Livingstone and his party proposed to cross when +they set out with their wagon on the 1st of June, 1849, from Kolobeng. +Instead, however, of taking a direct course across it, they determined +to take a more circuitous route, which, though longer, they hoped would +prove safer. + +Continuing on, they traversed three hundred miles of desert, when, at +the end of a month, they reached the banks of the Zouga, a large river, +richly fringed with fruit-bearing and other trees, many of them of +gigantic growth, running north-east towards Lake Ngami. They received a +cordial welcome from the peace-loving inhabitants of its banks, the +Bayeiye. + +Leaving the wagons in charge of the natives, with the exception of a +small one which proceeded along the bank, Dr Livingstone embarked in +one of their canoes. Frail as are the canoes of the natives, they make +long trips in them, and manage them with great skill, often standing up +and paddling with long light poles. They thus daringly attack the +hippopotami in their haunts, or pursue the swift antelope which ventures +to swim across the river. After voyaging on the stream for twelve days, +they reached the broad expanse of Lake Ngami. Though wide, it is +excessively shallow, and brackish during the rainy season. They here +heard of the Tamunacle and other large rivers flowing into the lake. + +Livingstone's main object in coming was to visit Sebituane, the great +chief of the Makololo, who live about two hundred miles to the +northward. The chief of the district, Sechulatebe, refused, however, +either to give them goods or to allow them to cross the river. Having +in vain attempted to form a raft to ferry over the wagon, they were +reluctantly compelled to abandon their design. The doctor had been +working at the raft in the river, not aware of the number of alligators +which swarmed around him, and had reason to be thankful that he escaped +their jaws. + +The season being far advanced, they determined to return to Kolobeng, +Mr Oswell generously volunteering to go down to the Cape and bring up a +boat for the next season. + +Half the royal premium for the encouragement of geographical science and +discoveries was awarded by the council of the Royal Geographical Society +to Dr Livingstone for the discoveries he made on this journey. + +Sechele, the Christian chief of the Bakwains, who was eager to assist +him in reaching Sebituane, offered his services, and with him as a +guide, accompanied by Mrs Livingstone and their three children, he set +out, in April, 1850, taking a more easterly course than before. + +They again reached the lake, but the greater number of the party being +attacked by fever, he was compelled to abandon his design of visiting +Sebituane. + +He here heard of the death of a young artist, Mr Rider, who had shortly +before visited the lake for the purpose of making sketches. + +The natives inhabiting the banks of the rivers falling into Lake Ngami +are famed for their skill in hunting the hippopotamus. In perfect +silence they approach in their light canoes, and plunge their sharp +spears, with thongs attached, into the back of one of the huge +creatures, which dashes down the stream, towing the canoe at a rapid +rate. Thus the animal continues its course, the hunters holding on to +the rope, till its strength is exhausted, when, other canoes coming up, +it is speared to death. Frequently, however, the hippopotamus turns on +its assailants, bites the canoe in two, and seizes one of them in its +powerful jaws. When they can manage to do so, they tow it into shallow +water, and, carrying the line on shore, secure it to a tree, while they +attack the infuriated animal with their spears, till, sinking exhausted +with its efforts, it becomes their prey. + +Mr Oswell, who had arrived too late for the journey, spent the +remainder of the season in hunting elephants, liberally presenting Dr +Livingstone with the proceeds of his sport, for the outfit of his +children. + +The third journey was commenced in the spring of 1851, when, rejoined by +Mr Oswell, he set out once more, accompanied by Mrs Livingstone and +their children. + +First travelling north, and then to the north-east, through a region +covered with baobab-trees, abounding with springs, and inhabited by +Bushmen, they entered an arid and difficult country. Here, the supply +of water being exhausted, great anxiety was felt for the children, who +suffered greatly from thirst. At length a small stream, the Mababe, was +reached, running into a marsh, across which they had to make their way. +During the night they traversed a region infested by the _tsetse_, a fly +not much larger than the common house-fly, the bite of which destroys +cattle and horses. It is remarkable that neither man, wild animals, nor +even calves as long as they continue to suck, suffer from the bite of +this fearful pest. While some districts are infested by it, others in +the immediate neighbourhood are free, and, as it does not bite at night, +the only way the cattle of travellers can escape is by passing quickly +through the infested district before the sun is up. Sometimes the +natives lose the whole of their cattle by its attacks, and travellers +frequently have been deprived of all means of moving with their wagons, +in consequence of the death of their animals; some, indeed, have +perished from being unable to proceed. + +Having reached the Chobe, a large river, which falls into the Zambesi, +leaving their attendants encamped with their cattle on an island, Dr +Livingstone and his family, with Mr Oswell, embarked in a canoe on the +former river, and proceeded down it about twenty miles to an island, +where Sebituane was waiting to receive them. + +The chief, pleased with the confidence the doctor had shown in bringing +his wife and children, promised to take them to see his country, that +they might chose a spot where they might form a missionary station. He +had been engaged in warfare nearly all his life, under varying fortunes, +with the neighbouring savage tribes, and had at length established +himself in a secure position behind the Chobe and Leeambye, whose broad +streams guarded him from the inroads of his enemies. He had now a +larger number of subjects and was richer in cattle than any chief in +that part of Africa. + +The rivers and swamps, however, of the region produced fever, which had +proved fatal to many of his people. He had long been anxious for +intercourse with Europeans, and showed every wish to encourage those who +now visited him to remain in his territory. + +Unhappily, a few days after the arrival of his guests the chief was +attacked with inflammation of the lungs, originating in an old wound, +and, having listened to the gospel message delivered by the doctor, he +in a short time breathed his last. + +Dr Livingstone says that he was decidedly the best specimen of a native +chief he had ever met. His followers expressed the hope that the +English would be as friendly to his children as they intended to have +been to himself. + +The chieftainship devolved at his death on a daughter, who gave the +visitors leave to travel through any part of the country they chose. +They accordingly set out, and traversing a level district covered with +wild date-trees, and here and there large patches of swamp, for a +distance of a hundred and thirty miles to the north-east, they reached +the banks of the Zambesi, in the centre of the continent. + +From the prevalence of the _tsetse_, and the periodical rise of its +numerous streams causing malaria, Dr Livingstone was compelled to +abandon the intention he had formed of removing his own people thither +that they might be out of the reach of their savage neighbours, the +Dutch boers. It was, however, he at once saw, the key of Southern and +Central Africa. + +The magnificent stream, on the bank of which he now stood, flows +hundreds of miles east to the Indian Ocean--a mighty artery supplying +life to the teeming population of that part of Africa. He therefore +determined to send his wife and children to England, and to return +himself and spend two or three years in the new region he had +discovered, in the hopes of evangelising the people and putting a stop +to the trade in slaves, which had already been commenced even thus far +from the coast. + +He accordingly returned to Kolobeng, and then set out with his family a +journey of a thousand miles, to Cape Town. Having seen them on board a +homeward-bound ship, he again turned his face northward, June, 1852. + +Having reached Kuruman, he was there detained by the breaking of a +wagon-wheel. During that time the Dutch Boers attacked his friends, the +Fakwains, carrying off a number of them into slavery, the only excuse +the white men had being that Sechele was getting too saucy--in reality, +because he would not prevent the English traders from passing through +his territory to the northward. The Dutch plundered Dr Livingstone's +house, and carried off the wagons of the chief and that of a trader who +was stopping in the place. Dr Livingstone therefore found great +difficulty in obtaining guides and servants to proceed northward. Poor +Sechele set out for Cape Town, intending, as he said, to lay his +complaint before the Queen of England, but was compelled by want of +funds to return to his own country, where he devoted himself to the +evangelisation of his people. + +Parting with the chief, Dr Livingstone, giving the Boers a wide berth, +proceeded across the desert to Linyanti, the capital of the Makololo, +where he had visited the Chief Sebituane in 1851. The whole population, +amounting to nearly seven thousand souls, turned out to welcome him. He +found that the princess had abdicated in favour of her brother Sekeletu, +who received him with the greatest cordiality. The young king, then +only nineteen, exclaimed: "I have now got another father instead of +Sebituane." The people shared this feeling, believing that by the +residence of a missionary among them they would obtain some important +benefits, though of the real character of the blessing they might +receive they were totally ignorant. + +A rival of the young king existed in the person of a cousin, Mpepe, who +had been appointed by the late king chief over a portion of his +subjects, but whose ambition made him aim at the command of the whole. + +Half-caste Portuguese slave-traders had made their way to Linyanti, and +one, who pretended to be an important person, was carried about in a +hammock slung between two poles, which looking like a bag, the natives +called him "the father of the bag." Mpepe favoured these scoundrels, as +he hoped by their means to succeed in his rebellion. The arrival of Dr +Livingstone, however, somewhat damped their hopes. + +As the chief object of the doctor was to select a spot for a settlement, +he ascended, accompanied by Sekeletu, the great river Zambesi, which had +been discovered in the year 1851. + +The doctor had taught the Makololo to ride on their oxen, which they had +never before done, though, having neither saddles nor bridles, they +constantly fell off. + +He and Sekeletu were riding along side by side, when they encountered +Mpepe, who, as soon as he saw them, ran towards the chief with his axe +uplifted; but Sekeletu, galloping on, escaped him. On their arrival at +their camp, while the chief and the doctor were sitting together, Mpepe +appeared, his men keeping hold of their arms. At that moment the rebel +entered; but the doctor, unconsciously covering Sjkeletu's body, saved +him from the assassin's blow. His cousin's intention having been +revealed to Sekeletu, that night Mpepe was dragged off from his fire and +speared. So quietly was the deed done that Dr Livingstone heard +nothing of it till the next morning. + +Dr Livingstone was soon after this attacked by fever, when his hosts +exhibited the interest they felt for him by paying him every attention +in their power. His own remedies of a wet sheet and quinine were more +successful than the smoke and vapour baths employed by the natives. + +It is important that the position of Linyanti should be noted, as from +it Dr Livingstone set out on his journey westward to Loanda, on the +West Coast, and, returning to it, commenced from thence that adventurous +expedition to the East Coast, which resulted in so many interesting +discoveries. Its latitude is 18 degrees 17 minutes 20 seconds south; +longitude 23 degrees 50 minutes 9 seconds east. + + + +CHAPTER NINETEEN. + +TRAVELS OF DR. LIVINGSTONE, CONTINUED. + +SET OUT--SESHEKE--MAKOLOLO ARCHITECTURE--VILLAGE OF KATONGA--PADDLE UP +THE LEEAMBYE--MPEPE--NALIELE--VISIT MA-SEKELETU--A GRAND DANCE--RETURN +TO LINYANTI--EXPEDITION TO THE WEST--ON THE CHOBE--GONYE FALLS--UP THE +LEEANIBYE--UP THE LEEBA--THE BALONDA COUNTRY--MANENKO--VISITS SHINTI-- +RECEPTION OF LIVINGSTONE--PROCEEDS NORTHERLY--VISIT KATEMA--REACH THE +TERRITORY OF THE CHIBOQUE--WANT OF FOOD--A MUTINY--THE BANKS OF THE +QUANGO--REACH KASENGE--SLEEPING-PLACES ON THE ROAD--AMBACA--TROMBETA-- +ARRIVE AT LOANDA--LIVINGSTONE, WITH HIS MAKOLOLO, GOES ON BOARD THE +"PLUTO" AND "PHILOMEL"--THE CITY OF LOANDA--DEPARTURE--ASCEND THE RIVER +BENGO TO ICOLLO-I-BENGO--GOLCONGO ALTO--EXCURSION TO KASENGE--PROCEED +TO, AND ARRIVE ON, THE BANKS OF THE QUANGO--BASHINJI COUNTRY--ATTACKED-- +REACH CALONGO--KANAWA'S VILLAGE--PAST LAKE DILOLO--SHUITI'S CAPITAL--ON +THE LEEBA--THE LECAMBYE--THE TOWN OF LEBOUTA--PROCEEDING, ARRIVES AT +SESHEKE AND AFTERWARDS AT LINYANTI. + +Having recovered from his fever, Dr Livingstone, accompanied by +Sekeletu and about one hundred and sixty attendants, mostly young men, +associates of the chief, set out for Sesheke. The intermediate country +was perfectly flat, except patches elevated a few feet only above the +surrounding level. There were also numerous mounds, the work of +_termites_, which are literally gigantic structures, and often wild +date-trees were seen growing on them. + +The party looked exceedingly picturesque as, the ostrich feathers of the +men waving in the air, they wound in a long line in and out among the +mounds. Some wore red tunics or variously-coloured prints, and their +heads were adorned with the white ends of ox tails or caps made of +lions' manes. The nobles walked with a small club of rhinoceros horn in +their hands, their servants carrying their shields; while the ordinary +men bore burdens, and the battle-axe men, who had their own shields on +their arms, were employed as messengers, often having to run an immense +distance. + +The Makololo possess numerous cattle, and the chief, having to feed his +followers, either selected oxen from his own stock or received them from +the head men of the villages through which they passed, as tribute. + +Dr Livingstone and the chief had each a little gipsy tent in which they +slept, though the Makololo huts, which are kept tolerably clean, +afforded them accommodation. The best sort of huts consist of three +circular walls, having small holes to serve as doors, through which it +is necessary to creep on all fours. The roof resembles in shape a +Chinaman's hat, and is bound together with circular bands. The +framework is first formed, and it is then lifted to the top of the +circle of poles prepared for supporting it. The roof is next covered +with fine grass and sewed with the same material as the lashings. Women +are the chief builders of huts among the Makololo. + +Reaching the village of Katonga on the banks of the Leeambye, some time +was spent there in collecting canoes. During this delay Dr Livingstone +visited the country to the north of the village, where he saw enormous +numbers of buffaloes, zebras, elans, and a beautiful small antelope +called the _tinyane_. He was enabled, by this hunting expedition, to +supply his companions with an abundance of food. + +At length, a sufficient number of canoes being collected, they commenced +the ascent of the river. His own canoe had six paddlers, while that of +the chief had ten. They paddled standing upright, and kept stroke with +great exactness. Being flat-bottomed, they can float in very shallow +water. The fleet consisted altogether of thirty-three canoes and one +hundred and sixty men. + +The Makololo are unable to swim, and, a canoe being upset, one of the +party, an old doctor, was lost, while the Barotse canoe-men easily saved +themselves by swimming. + +Numerous villages were seen on both banks of the river, the inhabitants +of which are expert hunters of the hippopotamus, and are excellent +handicraft-men. They manufacture wooden bowls with neat lids, and show +much taste in carving stools. Some make neat baskets, and others excel +in pottery and iron. + +On their arrival at the town of the father of Mpepe, who had instigated +his son to rebellion, two of his chief councillors were led forth and +tossed into the river. + +Mpepe had encouraged the slave-dealers to come into the country, and a +large party of his supporters, the Mambari, had taken shelter in a +stockade. It was proposed to attack them; but Dr Livingstone urged his +friends to refrain from so doing, especially as the enemy possessed +firearms. It was then agreed that they would starve them out. + +"Hunger is strong enough for that," observed a chief, "he is a very +great fellow;" but here again, as the unfortunate slaves who were +chained in gangs would have suffered, the doctor interceded, and they +were allowed to depart. + +Naliele, the capital of the Barotse, the tribe inhabiting the district +in which they now were, is built on an artificially-constructed mound, +as are many other villages of that region, to raise them above the +overflowing of the river. From finding no trace of European names among +them, Dr Livingstone was convinced that the country had not before been +visited by white men; whereas, after he had come among them, great +numbers of children were named after his own boy, while others were +called Horse, Gun, Wagon, etcetera. + +Here again numbers of large game were seen. Eighty-one buffaloes +defiled in slow procession before the fire of the travellers one evening +within gun-shot, and herds of splendid elans stood at two hundred yards' +distance, without showing signs of fear. Lions, too, approached and +roared at them. One night, as they were sleeping on the summit of a +large sandbank, a lion appeared on the opposite shore, who amused +himself for hours by roaring as loudly as he could. The river was too +broad for a ball to reach him, and he walked off without suffering for +his impertinence. Dr Livingstone saw two as tall as common donkeys, +their manes making their bodies appear of still greater size. + +The doctor was visited at his camp by two Arabs, who had made their way +thus far west. They professed the greatest hatred of the Portuguese +because they eat pigs, and they disliked the English because they thrash +them for selling slaves. + +On their journey they visited the town of Ma-Sekeletu, or the mother of +Sekelutu, where, as it was the first visit the king had paid to this +part of his dominions, he was received with every appearance of joy. A +grand dance was got up, the men standing nearly naked in a circle, with +clubs or small battle-axes in their hands, roaring at the loudest pitch +of their voices, while they simultaneously lifted one leg, stamped twice +with it, then lifted the other and gave one stamp with that. The arms +and head were thrown about in every direction, the roaring being kept up +with the utmost vigour, while the dust ascended in clouds around them. + +Returning down the stream at a rapid rate, they quickly reached +Linyanti. + +During this nine-weeks' tour Dr Livingstone had been in closer contact +with heathenism than ever before, and though, including the chief, +everyone had been as attentive as possible, yet the dancing, roaring, +singing, jesting, quarrelling, added to the murdering propensities of +these children of nature was painful in the extreme. He took a more +intense disgust of heathenism than he had ever before felt, and formed a +higher opinion of the latent effects of missions in the south among +tribes which were once as savage as the Makololo. + +The chief and his followers, agreeing that the object of Dr +Livingstone's proposed expedition to the west was most desirable, took +great pains to assist him in the undertaking. A band of twenty-seven +men was appointed to accompany him by the chief's command, whose eager +desire was to obtain a free and profitable trade with the white men, and +this, Dr Livingstone was convinced, was likely to lead to their +ultimate elevation and improvement. Three men whom he had brought from +Kuruman having suffered greatly from fever, he sent them back with +Fleming, a trader, who had followed his footsteps. His new attendants +he named Zambesians, for there were only two Makololo men--the rest +consisting of Barotse, Batoka, and other tribes. His wagon and +remaining goods he committed to the charge of the Makololo, who took all +the articles into their huts. He carried only a rifle and +double-barrelled smooth-bore gun for himself, and gave three muskets to +his people, by means of which he hoped game might be obtained for their +support. Wishing also to save his followers from having to carry loads, +he took for his own support but a few biscuits and a pound of tea and +sugar, about twenty of coffee, a small tin canister with some spare +shirting, trousers, and shoes, another for medicines, and a third for +books, while a fourth contained a magic lantern. His ammunition was +distributed in portions among the whole luggage, that, should an +accident occur to one, the rest might be preserved. His camp equipage +consisted of a gipsy tent, a sheep-skin mantle, and a horse-rug as a +bed, as he had always found that the chief art of successful travelling +consisted in taking as few impediments as possible. His sextant, +artificial horizon, thermometer, and compasses were carried apart. + +On the 11th of November, 1853, accompanied by the chief and his +principal men to see him off, he left Linyanti, and embarked on the +Chobe. The chief danger in navigating this river is from the bachelor +hippopotami who have been expelled their herd, and, whose tempers being +soured, the canoes are frequently upset by them. One of these +misanthropes chased some of his men, and ran after them on shore with +considerable speed. + +The banks of the river were clothed with trees, among them the _ficus +indica_, acacias, and the evergreen _motsouri_, from the pink-coloured +specimens of which a pleasant acid drink is obtained. + +Leaving the Chobe, they entered the Leeambye, up which they proceeded at +somewhat a slow rate, as they had to wait at different villages for +supplies of food. Several varieties of wild fruit were presented to +them. + +The crews of the canoes worked admirably, being always in good humour, +and, on any danger threatening, immediately leaped overboard to prevent +them coming broadside to the stream, or being caught by eddies, or +dashed against the rocks. + +Birds, fish, iguanas, and hippopotami abounded; indeed the whole river +teemed with life. + +On November 30th the Gonye Falls were reached. No rain having fallen, +it was excessively hot. They usually got up at dawn--about five in the +morning--coffee was taken and the canoes loaded, the first two hours +being the most pleasant part of the day's sail. + +The Barotse, being a tribe of boatmen, managed their canoes admirably. + +At about eleven they landed to lunch. After an hour's rest they +embarked, the doctor with an umbrella overhead. Sometimes they reached +a sleeping-place two hours before sunset. Coffee was again served out, +with coarse bread made of maize meal, or Indian corn, unless some animal +had been killed, when a potful of flesh was boiled. + +The canoes were carried beyond the falls, slung on poles placed on men's +shoulders. + +Here as elsewhere the doctor exhibited his magic lantern, greatly to the +delight of the people. + +Nothing could be more lovely than the scenery of the falls. The water +rushes through a fissure and, being confined below by a space not more +than a hundred yards wide, goes rolling over and over in great masses, +amid which the most expert swimmer can in vain make way. + +The doctor was able to put a stop to an intended fight between the +inhabitants of two villages. Several volunteers offered to join him, +but his followers determined to adhere to the orders of Sekeletu, and +refused all other companions. + +They were treated most liberally by the inhabitants of all the villages, +who presented them with more oxen, milk, and meal than they could stow +away. Entering the Leeambye, Dr Livingstone proceeded up that stream +in his canoe, while his oxen and a portion of his men continued their +journey along its banks. + +The rain had fallen, and nature put on her gayest apparel: flowers of +great beauty and curious forms grew everywhere, many of the forest trees +having palmated leaves, the trunks being covered with lichens, while +magnificent ferns were seen in all the moister situations. In the cool +morning the welkin rang with the singing of birds, and the ground +swarmed with insect life. + +Livingstone did not fail to preach the Gospel to his attendants, as well +as to the inhabitants of the villages, ever having in mind the value of +human souls. + +Alligators were in prodigious numbers, children and calves being +constantly carried off by them. One of his men was seized, but, +retaining his presence of mind when dragged to the bottom, he struck the +monster with his javelin and escaped, bearing the marks of the reptile's +teeth on his thigh. + +The doctor's men had never before used firearms, and, proving bad shots, +came to him for "gun medicine" to enable them to shoot better. As he +was afraid of their exhausting his supply of powder, he was compelled to +act as sportsman for the party. + +Leaving Leeambye, he proceeded up the Leeba. Beautiful flowers and +abundance of wild honey was found on its shores, and large numbers of +young alligators were seen sunning themselves on the sandbanks with +their parents. + +They had now reached the Balonda country, and received a visit from a +chieftainess, Manenko, a tall strapping woman covered with ornaments and +smeared over with fat and red ochre as a protection against the weather. +She invited them to visit her uncle Shinti, the chief of the country. + +They set out in the midst of a heavy drizzling mist; on, however, the +lady went, in the lightest marching order. The doctor enquired why she +did not clothe herself during the rain; but it appeared that she did not +consider it proper for a chief to appear effeminate. The men, in +admiration of her pedestrian powers, every now and then remarked: +"Manenko is a soldier." Some of the people in her train carried shields +composed of reeds, of a square form, five feet long and three broad. +With these, and armed with broadswords and quivers full of iron-headed +arrows, they looked somewhat ferocious, but are in reality not noted for +their courage. + +The doctor was glad when at length the chieftainess halted on the banks +of a stream and preparations were made for their night's lodging. + +After detaining them several days she accompanied them on foot to +Shinti's town. The chief's place of audience was ornamented by two +graceful banyan-trees, beneath one of which he sat on a sort of throne +covered with a leopard-skin. He wore a checked shirt and a kilt of +scarlet baize, edged with green, numerous ornaments covering his arms +and legs, while on his head was a helmet of beads, crowned with large +goose feathers. At his side sat three lads with quivers full of arrows +over their shoulders. + +Dr Livingstone took his seat under the shade of another tree opposite +to the chief, while the spokesman of the party, who had accompanied +them, in a loud voice, walking backwards and forwards, gave an account +of the doctor and his connection with the Makololo. + +Behind the chief sat a hundred women clothed in red baize, while his +wife was seated in front of him. Between the speeches the ladies burst +forth into a sort of plaintive ditty. The party was entertained by a +band of musicians, consisting of three drummers and four performers on +the _marimba_, a species of piano. It consists of two bars of wood +placed side by side; across these are fixed fifteen wooden keys, each +two or three inches broad and about eighteen long, their thickness being +regulated by the deepness of the note required. Each of the keys has a +calabash below it, the upper portion of which, being cut off to hold the +bars, they form hollow sounding-boards to the keys. These are also of +different sizes according to the notes required. The keys are struck by +small drumsticks to produce the sound. The Portuguese have imitated the +_marimba_, and use it in their dances in Angola. + +The women in this country are treated with more respect by the men than +in other parts of Africa. + +A party of Mambari, with two native Portuguese traders, had come up to +obtain slaves, and, while Dr Livingstone was residing with Shinti, some +young children were kidnapped, evidently to be sold to them. + +The day before he was to recommence his journey, the doctor received a +visit in his tent from Shinti, who, as a mark of his friendship, +presented him with a shell on which he set the greatest value, +observing: "There, now you have a proof of my affection." + +These shells, as marks of distinction, are so highly valued that for two +of them a slave may be bought, and five will purchase an elephant's tusk +worth ten pounds. + +The old chief had provided a guide, Intemese, to conduct them to the +territory of the next chief, Katema. He also gave an abundant supply of +food, and wished them a prosperous journey. + +Dr Livingstone again started on the 26th of January, Shinti sending +eight men to assist in carrying his luggage. He had now to quit the +canoes and to proceed on ox-back, taking a northerly direction. + +He and his party received the same kind treatment in the country as +before, the villagers, by command of their chiefs, presenting them with +an abundance of food. They found English cotton cloth more eagerly +enquired after than beads and ornaments. + +On arriving at a village the inhabitants lifted off the roofs of some of +their huts, and brought them to the camp, to save the men the trouble of +booth-making. On starting again the villagers were left to replace them +at their leisure, no payment being expected. + +Heavy rains now came on, and the doctor and his party were continually +wet to the skin. + +Polite as the people were, they were still fearful savages. Messengers +arrived from the neighbouring town to announce the death of their chief, +Matiamvo. That individual had been addicted to running a-muck through +his capital and beheading any one he met, till he had a large heap of +human heads in front of his hut. Men were also slaughtered +occasionally, whenever the chief wanted part of a body to perform +certain charms. + +The Balonda appear to have some belief in the existence of the soul, and +a greater feeling of reverence in their composition than the tribes to +the eastward. Among their customs they have a remarkable one. Those +who take it into their heads to become friends, cement their friendship. +Taking their seats opposite one to the other, with a vessel of beer by +the side of each, they clasp hands. They then make cuts on their +clasped hands, the pits of their stomachs, their foreheads, and right +cheeks. The point of a blade of grass is then pressed against the cuts, +and afterwards each man washes it in his own pot of beer; exchanging +pots, the contents are drunk, so that each man drinks the blood of the +other. Thus they consider that they become blood relations and are +bound in every possible way to assist each other. + +These people were greatly surprised at the liberty enjoyed by the +Makololo. + +The travellers paid a visit to Katema, the chief of the district, who +received them dressed in a snuff-brown coat, with a helmet of beads and +feathers on his head, and in his hand a number of tails of _gnus_ bound +together. He also sent some of his men to accompany them on their +journey. + +The rains continued, and the doctor suffered much from having to sleep +on the wet ground. + +Having reached the latitude of Loanda, Dr Livingstone now directed his +course to the westward. + +On the 4th of March he reached the outskirts of the territory of the +Chiboque. + +As he approached the more civilised settlements, he found the habits of +the people changed much for the worse: tricks of all sorts were played +to detain him and obtain tribute; the guides also tried in every way to +impose on him. Even his Makololo expressed their sorrow at seeing so +beautiful a country ill cultivated and destitute of cattle. + +He was compelled to slaughter one of his riding oxen for food, as none +could be obtained. + +The Chiboque coming round in great numbers, their chief demanded +tribute, and one of their number made a charge at Dr Livingstone, but +quickly retreated on having the muzzle of the traveller's gun pointed at +his head. The chief and his councillors, however, consenting to sit +down on the ground, the Makololo, well drilled, surrounded them and thus +got them completely in their power. A mutiny, too, broke out among his +own people, who complained of want of food; but it was suppressed by the +appearance of the doctor with a double-barrelled pistol in his hand. +They never afterwards gave him any trouble. + +Similar demands for payment to allow him to pass through the country +were made by other chiefs, his faithful Makololo giving up their +ornaments, as he had done nearly all the beads and shirts in his +possession. The most extortionate of these chiefs was Ioaga Panza, +whose sons, after receiving payment for acting as guides, deserted him. + +All this time Dr Livingstone was suffering daily from the attacks of +fever, which rendered him excessively weak, so that he could scarcely +sit his ox. + +The country appeared fertile and full of small villages, and the soil is +so rich that little labour is required for its cultivation. It is, +however, the chief district whence slaves are obtained, and a feeling of +insecurity was evident amongst the inhabitants. + +A demand was now made by each chief for a man, an ox, or a tusk as +tribute. The first was of course refused, but nearly all the remainder +of the traveller's property had to be thus paid away. + +On the 4th of April they reached the banks of the Quango, here a hundred +and fifty yards wide. The chief of the district--a young man, who wore +his hair curiously formed into the shape of a cone, bound round with +white thread--on their refusing to pay him an extortionate demand, +ordered his people not to ferry them across, and opened fire on them. +At this juncture a half-caste Portuguese, a sergeant of militia, +Cypriano Di Abreu arrived, and, obtaining ferrymen, they crossed over +into the territory of the Bangala, who are subject to the Portuguese. +They had some time before rebelled, and troops were now stationed among +them, Cypriano being in command of a party of men. Next morning he +provided a delicious breakfast for his guest, and fed the Makololo with +pumpkins and maize, while he supplied them with farina for their journey +to Kasenge, without even hinting at payment. + +The natives, though they long have had intercourse with the Portuguese, +are ignorant and superstitious in the extreme. Many parts of the +country are low and marshy, and they suffer greatly from fever. Of the +use of medicine they have no notion, their only remedies being charms +and cupping. The latter operation is performed with a small horn, which +has a little hole in the upper end. The broad end is placed on the +flesh, when the operator sucks through the hole; as the flesh rises, he +gashes it with a knife, then replaces the horn and sucks again, till +finally he introduces a piece of wax into his mouth, to stop up the +hole, when the horn is left to allow the blood to gush into it. + +It took the travellers four days to reach Kasenge, a town inhabited by +about forty Portuguese traders and their servants. Though told by the +doctor that he was a Protestant minister, they treated him with the +greatest kindness and hospitality. + +Here the Makololo sold Sekeletu's tusks, obtaining much better prices +than they would have done from the Cape traders, forgetting, however, +that their value was greatly increased by the distance they had been +brought. + +The Makololo here expressed their fears, from what they had heard, that +they were about to be led down to the sea-coast to be sold, but when +Livingstone asked them if he had ever deceived them, and that he would +assure them of their safety, they agreed to accompany him. + +The merchants of Kasenge treated the doctor with the most disinterested +kindness, and furnished him with letters to their friends at Loanda. + +He was escorted by a black corporal of militia, who was carried in a +hammock by his slaves. He could both read and write, and was cleanly in +all his ways; he was considerate also to his young slaves, and walked +most of the way, only getting into his hammock on approaching a village, +for the sake of keeping up his dignity. He, however, had the usual +vices in a land of slaves, and did not fail to cheat those he was sent +to protect. + +Sleeping-places were erected on the road about ten miles apart, as there +is a constant stream of people going to and coming from the coast. + +Goods are either carried on the head or on one shoulder, in a sort of +basket, supported by two poles five or six feet long. When the carrier +feels tired and halts, he plants them on the ground, allowing his burden +to rest against a tree, so that he has not to lift it up from the ground +to the level of his head. + +On arriving at a sleeping-place, the sheds were immediately taken +possession of by the first comers, those arriving last having to make +huts with long grass for themselves. Women might then be seen coming +from their villages with baskets of manioc meal, yams, garlic, and other +roots for sale. + +As Dr Livingstone had supplied himself with calico at Kasenge, he was +able to purchase what was necessary. + +The district of Ambaca, through which he now passed, was excessively +fertile. Large numbers of cattle exist on its pastures, which are +well-watered by flowing streams, while lofty mountains rise in the +distance. It is said to contain forty thousand souls. + +The doctor was delighted with Golcongo Alto, a magnificent district--the +hills bedecked with trees of various hues, the graceful oil-yielding +palm towering above them. + +Here the commandant, Lieutenant Castro, received him in a way which won +the doctor's affectionate regard. + +He calculated that this district has a population of a hundred and four +thousand. + +The lieutenant regretted, as does every person of intelligence, the +neglect with which this magnificent country has been treated. + +As they proceeded, they passed streams with cascades, on which mills +might easily be formed; but here numbers of carpenters were converting +the lofty trees which grew around into planks, by splitting them with +wedges. + +At Trombeta the commandant had his garden ornamented with rows of trees, +with pineapples and flowers growing between them. A few years ago he +had purchased an estate for 16 pounds, on which he had now a coffee +plantation and all sorts of fruit-trees and grape-vines, besides grain +and vegetables growing, as also a cotton plantation. + +As they approached the sea the Makololo gazed at it, spreading out +before them, with feelings of awe, having before believed that the whole +world was one extended plain. They again showed their fears that they +might be kidnapped, but Dr Livingstone reassured them, telling them +that as they had stood by each other hitherto, so they would do to the +last. + +On the 31st of May they descended a declivity leading to the city of +Loanda, where Dr Livingstone was warmly welcomed by Mr Gabriel, the +British commissioner for the suppression of the slave trade. Seeing him +so ill, he benevolently offered the doctor his bed. "Never shall I +forget," says Dr Livingstone, "the luxurious pleasure I enjoyed in +feeling myself again on a good English couch, after for six months +sleeping on the ground." + +It took many days, however, before the doctor recovered from the +exposure and fatigue he had endured. All that time he was watched over +with the most generous sympathy by his kind host. The Portuguese Bishop +of Angola, and numerous other gentlemen, called on him and tendered +their services. + +Her Majesty's ship "Polyphemus" coming in, the surgeon, Mr Cockin, +afforded him the medical assistance he so much required, and on the 14th +of June he was sufficiently recovered to call on the bishop, attended by +his Makololo followers. They had all been dressed in new robes of +striped cotton cloth, and red caps, presented by Mr Gabriel. + +The bishop, acting as head of the provisional government, received them +in form, and gave them permission to come to Loanda and trade as often +as they wished, with which they were greatly pleased. + +The Makololo gazed with astonishment at all they witnessed, the large +stone houses and churches especially, never before having seen a +building larger than a hut. The commanders of the "Pluto" and +"Philomel," which came into the harbour, invited them on board. Knowing +their fears, Dr Livingstone told them that no one need go should they +entertain the least suspicion of foul play. Nearly the whole party, +however, went. + +Pointing to the sailors, the doctor said: "Now, these are all my +countrymen, sent by our queen for the purpose of putting down the trade +of those that buy and sell black men." + +They replied: "Truly they are just like you," and all their fears +vanished. + +Going forward amongst the men, they were received much the same as the +Makololo would have received them, the jolly tars handing them a share +of the bread and beef they had for dinner. They were allowed to fire +off a cannon, at which they were greatly pleased, especially when the +doctor observed: "That is what they put down the slave trade with." + +This visit had a most beneficial effect, as it raised Dr Livingstone +still more highly than ever in the opinion of the natives. + +They were not so much struck at the high mass which they witnessed at +the cathedral, observing that they had seen the white men charming their +demons. + +During August the doctor was again attacked by a severe fit of fever. + +His men, while he was unable to attend to them, employed themselves in +going into the country and cutting firewood, which they sold to the +inhabitants of the town. Mr Gabriel also found them employment in +unloading a collier, at sixpence a day. They continued at this work for +upwards of a month, astonished at the vast amount of "stones that burn" +which were taken out of her. With the money thus obtained they +purchased clothing, beads, and other articles to carry home with them. +In selecting calicoes they were well able to judge of the best, and +chose such pieces as appeared the strongest, without reference to +colour. + +Saint Paul de Loanda, once a considerable city, has now fallen greatly +into decay. There are, however, many large stone houses, and the palace +of the governor, and the government offices, are substantial structures. +Trees are planted throughout the town for the sake of shade. Though +the dwellings of the native inhabitants are composed merely of wattle +and daub, from the sea they present an imposing appearance. + +Though at first the government lost its chief revenue from the +suppression of the slave trade, it has again gradually increased by the +lawful commerce now carried on by its merchants. The officers are, +however, so badly paid that they are compelled to engage in mercantile +pursuits, and some attempt by bribes to assist the slave-dealers. + +From the kind and generous treatment Dr Livingstone received from the +Portuguese, they rose deservedly high in his estimation. + +He now prepared for his departure. The merchants sent a present to +Sekeletu, consisting of specimens of all their articles of trade and two +donkeys, that the breed might be introduced into his country, as the +_tsetse_ cannot kill those beasts of burden. The doctor was also +furnished with letters of recommendation to the Portuguese authorities +in Eastern Africa. The bishop likewise furnished him with twenty +carriers, and sent forward orders to the commandants of the districts to +the east to render him every assistance. He supplied himself with +ammunition, and beads, and a stock of cloth, and he gave each of his men +a musket. He had also purchased a horse for Sekeletu. His friends of +the "Philomel" fitted him out also with a new tent, and, on the 20th of +September, 1854, he and his party left Loanda, escorted by Mr Gabriel, +who, from his unwearied attentions and liberality to his men, had become +endeared to all their hearts. + +Passing round by the sea, he ascended the River Bengo to Icollo-i-Bengo, +once the residence of a native king. While Mr Gabriel returned to +Loanda, Dr Livingstone and his party proceeded to Golcongo Alto, where +he left some of his men to rest, while he took an excursion to Kasenge, +celebrated for its coffee plantations. On his return he found several +of them suffering from fever, while one of them had gone out of his +mind, but in a short time recovered. + +The doctor had the satisfaction of returning the kindness he received +from Mr Canto, the commandant, by attending him during a severe attack +of illness. + +He had thus an opportunity of watching the workings of slavery. The +moment their master was ill, the slaves ate up everything on which they +could lay their hands, till the doctor himself could scarcely obtain +even bread and butter. Here Sekeletu's horse was seized with +inflammation, and the poor animal afterwards died on its journey. + +On the 28th of February they reached the banks of the Quango, where they +were again received by Cypriano. + +The coloured population of Angola are sunk in the grossest superstition. +They fancy themselves completely in the power of spirits, and are +constantly deprecating their wrath. A chief, named Gando, had lately +been accused of witchcraft, and, being killed by the ordeal, his body +was thrown into the river. + +Heavy payment was demanded by the ferrymen for crossing in their +wretched canoes; but the cattle and donkeys had to swim across. + +Avoiding their friend with the comical head-dress, they made their way +to the camp of some Ambakistas, or half-caste Portuguese, who had gone +across to trade in wax. They are famed for their love of learning, and +are keen traders, and, writing a peculiarly fine hand, are generally +employed as clerks, sometimes being called the Jews of Angola. + +The travellers were now in the country of the Bashinji, possessing the +lowest negro physiognomy. At a village where they halted, they were +attacked by the head man, who had been struck by one of the Makololo on +their previous visit, although atonement had been made. A large body of +the natives now rushed upon them as they were passing through a forest, +and began firing, the bullets passing amid the trees. Dr Livingstone +fortunately encountered the chief, and, presenting a six-barrelled +revolver, produced an instant revolution in his martial feelings. The +doctor then, ordering, him and his people to sit down, rode off. + +They were now accompanied by their Portuguese friends, the Londa people, +who inhabit the banks of the Loajima. + +They elaborately dress their hair in a number of ways. It naturally +hangs down on their shoulders in large masses, which, with their general +features, give them a strong resemblance to the ancient Egyptians. Some +of them twist their hair into a number of small cords, which they +stretch out to a hoop encircling the head, giving it the resemblance of +the glory seen in pictures round the head of the Virgin Mary. Others +adorn their heads with ornaments of woven hair and hide, to which they +occasionally suspend the tails of buffaloes. A third fashion is to +weave the hair on pieces of hide in the form of buffalo horns, +projecting on either side of the head. The young men twine their hair +in the form of a single horn, projecting over their forehead in front. +They frequently tattoo their bodies, producing figures in the form of +stars. Although their heads are thus elaborately adorned, their bodies +are almost destitute of clothing. + +Reaching Calongo, Dr Livingstone directed his course towards the +territory of his old friend, Katema. + +They were generally well received at the villages. + +On the 2nd of June they reached that of Kanawa. This chief, whose +village consisted of forty or fifty huts, at first treated them very +politely, but he took it into his head to demand an ox as tribute. On +their refusing it, Kanawa ordered his people to arm. On this, Dr +Livingstone directed his Makololo to commence the march. Some did so +with alacrity, but one of them refused, and was preparing to fire at +Kanawa, when the doctor, giving him a blow with his pistol, made him go +too. They had already reached the banks of the river when they found +that Kanawa had sent on ahead to carry off all the canoes. The +ferrymen, supposing that the travellers were unable to navigate the +canoes, left them, unprotected, on the bank. As soon as it was dark, +therefore, the Makololo quickly obtained one of them, and the whole +party crossed, greatly to the disgust of Kanawa when he discovered in +the morning what had occurred. + +They now took their way across the level plain, which had been flooded +on their former journey. Numberless vultures were flying in the air, +showing the quantity of carrion which had been left by the waters. + +They passed Lake Dilolo, a sheet of water six or eight miles long and +two broad. + +The sight of the blue waters had a soothing effect on the doctor, who +was suffering from fever, after his journey through the gloomy forest +and across the wide flat. + +Pitsane and Mohorisi, Livingstone's chief men, had proposed establishing +a Makololo village on the banks of the Leeba, near its confluence with +the Leeambye, that it might become a market to communicate westward with +Loanda, and eastward with the regions along the banks of the Zambesi. + +Old Shinti, whose capital they now reached, received them as before in a +friendly way, and supplied them abundantly with provisions. + +The doctor left with him a number of plants, among which were orange, +cashew, custard, apple, and fig-trees, with coffee, acacias, and papaws, +which he had brought from Loanda. They were planted out in the +enclosure of one of his principal men, with a promise that Shinti should +have a share of them when grown. + +They now again embarked in six small canoes on the waters of the Leeba. +Paddling down it, they next entered the Leeambye. Here they found a +party of hunters, who had been engaged in stalking buffaloes, +hippopotami, and other animals. They use for this purpose the skin of a +deer, with the horns attached, or else the head and upper part of the +body of a crane, with which they creep through the grass till they can +get near enough to shoot their prey. + +The doctor, wishing to obtain some meat for his men, took a small canoe +and paddled up a creek towards a herd of zebras seen on the shore. +Firing, he broke the hind leg of one of them. His men pursued it, and, +as he walked slowly after them, he observed a solitary buffalo, which +had been disturbed by others of his party, galloping towards him. The +only tree was a hundred yards off. The doctor cocked his rifle in the +hope of striking the brute on the forehead. The thought occurred to +him, but what should his gun miss fire? The animal came on at a +tremendous speed, but a small bush a short distance off made it swerve +and expose its shoulder. The doctor fired, and as he heard the ball +crack, he fell flat on his face. The buffalo bounded past him towards +the water, near which it was found dead. His Makololo blamed themselves +for not having been by his side, while he returned thanks to God for his +preservation. + +On reaching the town of Lebouta, they were welcomed with the warmest +demonstrations of joy, the women coming out, dancing and singing. +Thence they were conducted to the _kotlar_, or house of assembly, where +Pitsane delivered a long speech, describing the journey and the kind way +in which they had been received at Loanda, especially by the English +chief. + +Next day Dr Livingstone held a service, when his Makololo braves, +arrayed in their red caps and white suits of European clothing, +attended, sitting with their guns over their shoulders. + +As they proceeded down the Barotse Valley, they were received in the +same cordial manner. + +The doctor was astonished at the prodigious quantities of wild animals +of all descriptions which he saw on this journey, and also when +traversing the country further to the east--elephants, buffaloes, +giraffes, zebras, antelopes, and pigs. Frequently the beautiful +springbok appeared, covering the plain, sometimes in sprinklings and at +other times in dense crowds, as far as the eye could reach. + +The troops of elephants also far exceeded in numbers anything which he +had ever before heard of or conceived. He and his men had often to +shout to them to get out of their way, and on more than one occasion a +herd rushed in upon the travellers, who not without difficulty made +their escape. A number of young elephants were shot for food, their +flesh being highly esteemed. To the natives the huge beasts are a great +plague, as they break into their gardens and eat up their pumpkins and +other produce; when disturbed they are apt to charge those interrupting +their feast, and, following them, to demolish the huts in which they may +have taken refuge, not unfrequently killing them in their rage. + +Resting at Sesheke, they proceeded to Linyanti, where the wagon and +everything that had been left in it in November, 1853, was found +perfectly safe. + +A grand meeting was called, when the doctor made a report of his journey +and distributed the articles which had been sent by the governor and +merchants of Loanda. Pitsane and others then gave an account of what +they had seen, and, as may be supposed, nothing was lost in the +description. The presents afforded immense satisfaction, and on Sunday +Sekeletu made his appearance in church dressed in the uniform which had +been brought down for him, and which attracted every man's attention. + +The Arab, Ben Habed, and Sekeletu arranged with him to conduct another +party with a load of ivory down to Loanda; they also consulted him as to +the proper presents to send to the governor and merchants. The Makololo +generally expressed great satisfaction at the route which had been +opened up, and proposed moving to the Barotse Valley, that they might be +nearer the great market. The unhealthiness of the climate, however, was +justly considered a great drawback to the scheme. + +The doctor afterwards heard that the trading party which set out reached +Loanda in safety, and it must have been a great satisfaction to him to +feel that he had thus opened out a way to the enterprise of these +industrious and intelligent people. + +The donkeys which had been brought excited much admiration, and, as they +were not affected by the bite of the _tsetse_, it was hoped that they +might prove of great use. Their music, however, startled the +inhabitants more than the roar of lions. + + + +CHAPTER TWENTY. + +TRAVELS OF DR. LIVINGSTONE, CONTINUED. + +PREPARES FOR A JOURNEY TO THE EAST COAST--LEAVES LINYANTI--A STORM--THE +VICTORIA AND MOZIOATUNYA FALLS--FROM KALAI SETS OFF FOR LEKONE--CROSS +THE KAFUE--THE ZAMBESI--DOWN ITS BANKS--REACH THE CONFLUENCE OF THE +LOANGWA--MBURUMA'S PLOT--ZUMBO, A RUINED PORTUGUESE SETTLEMENT--A +CURIOUS RECEPTION--ARRIVAL AT TETE--A GOOD BREAKFAST--TETE DESCRIBED-- +DOWN THE QUILLIMANE--EMBARKS WITH SEKWEBU ON BOARD THE "FROLIC"--ARRIVES +AT MAURITIUS--SEKWEBU DROWNS HIMSELF--LIVINGSTONE ARRIVES IN ENGLAND. + +Dr Livingstone now began to make arrangements for performing another +adventurous journey to the East Coast. In the mean time he was fully +occupied in attending to the sick, as also in preaching the Gospel to +the people generally. + +He was advised to wait till the rains had fallen and cooled the ground; +and as it was near the end of September, and clouds were collecting, it +was expected that they would soon commence. The heat was very great: +the thermometer, even in the shade of his wagon, was at 100 degrees, +and, if unprotected, rose to 110 degrees; during the night it sank to 70 +degrees. + +His notes made during the time abound with descriptions of the habits +and customs of the people. The children strongly resemble in many +respects those of other nations. "They have merry times, especially in +the cool of the evening. One of their games consists of a little girl +being carried on the shoulders of two others. She sits with +outstretched arms as they walk about with her, and all the rest clap +their hands and, stopping before each hut, sing pretty airs, some +beating time on their little skirts of cow-skin, and others making a +curious humming sound between the songs. Excepting this and the +skipping-rope, the play of the girls consists in imitating the serious +work of their mothers--building little huts, making small pots and +cooking, pounding corn in miniature mortars, or hoeing tiny gardens. +The boys play with small spears and shields, or bows and arrows, or make +little cattle-pens and cattle in clay, often showing much ingenuity in +their imitations of the animals, especially of their horns." However, +we must accompany Dr Livingstone on his journey. Among other routes +which were proposed, he selected that by the north bank of the Zambesi. +He would, however, thus have to pass through territories in the +possession of the Matabele, who, under the powerful Chief Mozelekatse, +had driven away the Makololo, its original possessors. + +Notwithstanding this he had no fears for himself, as that chief looked +upon Mr Moffat, his father-in-law, as his especial friend. A +considerable district, also, of the country was still inhabited by the +Makololo, and by them he was sure to be kindly treated. The Makololo, +it must be understood, are a mixed race, composed of tribes of Bechuanas +who formerly inhabited the country bordering the Kalahara Desert. Their +language, the Bechuana, is spoken by the upper classes of the Makololo, +and into this tongue, by the persevering labours of Mr Moffat, nearly +the whole of the scriptures have been translated. Thus means already +existed of making known the Gospel among them. The bulk of the people +are negroes, and are an especially fine, athletic, and skilful race. + +As soon as Dr Livingstone announced his intention of proceeding to the +east, numerous volunteers came forward to accompany him. From among +them he selected a hundred and fourteen trustworthy men, and Sekeletu +appointed two, Sekwebu and Kanyata, as leaders of the company. Sekwebu +had been captured, when a child, from the Matabele, and his tribe now +inhabited the country near Tete; he had frequently travelled along the +banks of the Zambesi, and spoke the various dialects of the people +residing on them, and was, moreover, a man of sound judgment and +prudence, and rendered great service to the expedition. + +On the 3rd of November Dr Livingstone, bidding farewell to his friends +at Linyanti, set out, accompanied by Sekeletu and two hundred followers. +On reaching a patch of country infested by the _tsetse_ it became +necessary to travel at night. A fearful storm broke forth, sometimes +the lightning, spreading over the sky, forming eight or ten branches +like those of a gigantic tree. At times the light was so great that the +whole country could be distinctly seen, and in the intervals between the +flashes it was as densely dark. The horses trembled, turning round to +search for each other, while the thunder crashed with tremendous roars, +louder than is heard in other regions, the rain pelting down, making the +party feel miserably cold after the heat of the day. At length a fire, +left by some previous travellers, appeared in the distance. The +doctor's baggage having gone on before, he had to lie down on the cold +ground, when Sekeletu kindly covered him with his own blanket, remaining +without shelter himself. Before parting at Sesheke, the generous chief +supplied the doctor with twelve oxen, three accustomed to be ridden on, +hoes and beads to purchase a canoe, an abundance of fresh butter and +honey; and, indeed, he did everything in his power to assist him in his +journey. + +Bidding farewell to Sekeletu, the doctor and his attendants sailed down +the river to its confluence with the Chobe. Having reached this spot, +he prepared to strike across the country to the north-east, in order to +reach the northern bank of the Zambesi. Before doing so, however, he +determined to visit the Victoria or Mozioatunya Falls, of which he had +often heard. The meaning of the word is: "Smoke does sound there," in +reference to the vapour and noise produced by the falls. After twenty +minutes' sail from Kalai they came in sight of five columns of vapour, +appropriately called "smoke," rising at a distance of five or six miles +off, and bending as they ascended before the wind, the tops appearing to +mingle with the clouds. The scene was extremely beautiful. The banks +and the islands which appeared here and there amid the stream, were +richly adorned with trees and shrubs of various colours, many being in +full blossom. High above all rose an enormous baobab-tree surrounded by +groups of graceful palms. + +As the water was now low, they proceeded in the canoe to an island in +the centre of the river, the further end of which extended to the edge +of the falls. At the spot where they landed it was impossible to +discover where the vast body of water disappeared. It seemed, indeed, +suddenly to sink into the earth, for the opposite lip of the fissure +into which it descends was only eighty feet distant. On peering over +the precipice the doctor saw the stream, a thousand yards broad, leaping +down a hundred feet and then becoming suddenly compressed into a space +of fifteen or twenty yards, when, instead of flowing as before, it +turned directly to the right, and went boiling and rushing amid the +hills. + +The vapour which rushes up from this cauldron to the height of two or +three hundred feet, being condensed, changes its hue to that of dark +smoke, and then comes down in a constant shower. The chief portion +falls on the opposite side of the fissure, where grow a number of +evergreen trees, their leaves always wet. The walls of this gigantic +crack are perpendicular. Altogether, Dr Livingstone considered these +falls the most wonderful sight he had beheld in Africa. + +Returning to Kalai the doctor and his party met Sekeletu, and, bidding +him a final farewell, set off northwards to Lekone, through a beautiful +country, on the 20th of November. The further they advanced the more +the country swarmed with inhabitants, and great numbers came to see the +white man, invariably bringing presents of maize. + +The natives of this region have a curious way of saluting a stranger. +Instead of bowing they throw themselves on their backs on the ground, +rolling from side to side and slapping the outsides of their thighs, +while they utter the words "_Kina bomba! kina bomba_!" In vain the +doctor implored them to stop. They, imagining him pleased, only tumbled +about more fiercely and slapped their thighs with greater vehemence. + +These villagers supplied the party abundantly with ground nuts, maize, +and corn. + +When the doctor addressed them and told them of Jesus as their Saviour-- +how He had come on earth to bring peace and goodwill to men--they +replied: "We are tired of flight. Give us rest and sleep,"--though, of +course, they could not understand the full import of the message. + +These people appeared humbled by the scourgings they had received from +their enemies, and seemed to be in a favourable state for the reception +of the Gospel. + +Their chief, Monze, came one Sunday morning, wrapped in a large cloth, +when, like his followers, he rolled himself about in the dust, screaming +out "_Kina bomba_!" He had never before seen a white man, but had met +with black native traders, who came, he said, for ivory, but not for +slaves. His wife would have been good-looking, had she not followed the +custom of her country by knocking out her teeth. Monze soon made +himself at home, and presented the travellers with as much food as they +required. + +As they advanced, the country became still more beautiful, abounding +with large game. Often buffaloes were seen standing on eminences. One +day, a buffalo was found lying down, and the doctor went to secure it +for food. Though the animal received three balls they did not prove +fatal, and it turned round as if to charge. The doctor and his +companions ran for shelter to some rocks, but, before they gained them, +they found that three elephants had cut off their retreat. The enormous +brutes, however, turned off, and allowed them to gain the rocks. As the +buffalo was moving rapidly away the doctor tried a long shot, and, to +the satisfaction of his followers, broke the animal's fore leg. The +young men soon brought it to a stand, and another shot in its brain +settled it. They had thus an abundance of food, which was shared by the +villagers of the neighbourhood. Soon afterwards an elephant was killed +by his men. + +Leaving the Elephant Valley, they reached the residence of a chief named +Semalembue, who, soon after their arrival, paid them a visit, and +presented five or six baskets of meal and maize, and one of ground nuts, +saying that he feared his guest would sleep the first night at his +village hungry. The chief professed great joy at hearing the words of +the Gospel of Peace, replying: "Now I shall cultivate largely, in the +hopes of eating and sleeping in quiet." + +It is remarkable that all to whom the doctor spoke, eagerly caught up +the idea of living in peace as the probable effect of the Gospel. + +This region Sekwebu considered one of the best adapted for the residence +of a large tribe. It was here that Sebituane formerly dwelt. + +They now crossed the Kafue by a ford. _Every_ available spot between +the river and hills was under cultivation. The inhabitants select these +positions to secure themselves and their gardens from their human +enemies. They are also obliged to make pit-holes to protect their +grounds from the hippopotami. These animals, not having been disturbed, +were unusually tame, and took no notice of the travellers. A number of +young ones were seen, not much larger than terrier dogs, sitting on the +necks of their dams, the little saucy-looking heads cocked up between +the old one's ears; when older, they sit more on the mother's back. + +Meat being required, a full-grown cow was shot, the flesh of which +resembled pork. + +The party now directed their course to the Zambesi near its confluence +with the Kafue. They enjoyed a magnificent view from the top of the +outer range of hills. A short distance below them was the Kafue, +winding its way over a forest-clad plain, while on the other side of the +Zambesi lay a long range of dark hills. The plain below abounded in +large game. Hundreds of buffalo and zebras grazed on the open spaces, +and there stood feeding two majestic elephants, each slowly moving its +proboscis. On passing amidst them the animals showed their tameness by +standing beneath the trees, fanning themselves with their large ears. A +number also of red-coloured pigs were seen. The people in the +neighbourhood having no guns, they are never disturbed. + +A night was spent in a huge baobab-tree, which would hold twenty men +inside. + +As they moved on, a herd of buffaloes came strutting up to look at their +oxen, and only by shooting one could they be made to retreat. Shortly +afterwards a female elephant, with three young ones, charged through, +the centre of their extended line, when the men, throwing down their +burdens, retreated in a great hurry, she receiving a spear for her +temerity. + +They were made aware of their approach to the great river by the vast +number of waterfalls which appeared. It was found to be much broader +than above the falls: a person might indeed attempt in vain to make his +voice heard across it. An immense amount of animal life was seen both +around and in it. + +Pursuing their course down the left bank, they came opposite the island +of Menyemakaba, which is about two miles long and a quarter broad. +Besides its human population it supports a herd of upwards of sixty +buffalo. The comparatively small space to which the animals have +confined themselves shows the luxuriance of the vegetation. The only +time that the natives can attack them is when the river is full and part +is flooded: they then assail them from their canoes. + +The inhabitants of the north side of the Zambesi are the Batonga; those +on the south bank the Banyai. + +Both buffalo and elephants are numerous. To kill them the natives form +stages on high trees overhanging the paths by which they come to the +water. From thence they dart down their spears, the blades of which are +twenty inches long by two broad, when the motion of the handle, aided by +knocking against the trees, makes fearful gashes which soon cause death. +They form also a species of trap. A spear inserted in a beam of wood +is suspended from the branch of a tree, to which a cord is attached with +a latch. The cord being led along the path when struck by the animal's +foot, the beam falls, and, the spear being poisoned, death shortly +ensues. + +At each village they passed, two men were supplied to conduct them to +the next, and lead them through the parts least covered with jungle. + +The villagers were busily employed in their gardens. Most of the men +have muscular figures. Their colour varies from a dark to a light +olive. The women have the extraordinary custom of piercing the upper +lip, and gradually enlarging the orifice till a shell can be inserted. +The lip appears drawn out beyond the nose, and gives them a very ugly +appearance. As Sekwebu remarked: "These women want to make their mouths +like those of ducks." The commonest of these rings are made of bamboo, +but others are of ivory or metal. When the wearer tries to smile, the +contraction of the muscles turns the ring upwards, so that its upper +edge comes in front of the eyes, the nose appearing through the middle, +while the whole front teeth are exposed by the motion, exhibiting the +way in which they have been clipped to resemble the fangs of a cat or a +crocodile. + +On their next halt Seole, the chief of the village, instead of receiving +them in a friendly way, summoned his followers and prepared for an +attack. The reason was soon discovered. It appeared that an Italian, +who had married the chief's daughter, having armed a party of fifty +slaves with guns, had ascended the river in a canoe from Tete, and +attacked several inhabited islands beyond Makaba, taking large numbers +of prisoners and much ivory. As he descended again with his booty, his +party was dispersed and he himself was killed while attempting to escape +on foot. Seole imagined that the doctor was another Italian. + +This was the first symptom of the abominable slave trade they met with +on the east side of the continent. Had not the chief with whom they had +previously stayed arrived to explain matters, Seole might have given +them much trouble. + +Mburuma, another chief of the same tribe, had laid a plan to plunder the +party by separating them, but the doctor, suspecting treachery, kept his +people together. They had on a previous occasion plundered a party of +traders bringing English goods from Mozambique. + +On the 14th of January they reached the confluence of the Loangwa and +the Zambesi. + +Here the doctor discovered the ruins of a town, with the remains of a +church in its midst. The situation was well chosen, with lofty hills in +the rear and a view of the two rivers in front. On one side of the +church lay a broken bell, with the letters IHS and a cross. This he +found was a Portuguese settlement called Zumbo. The conduct of Mburuma +and his people gave Dr Livingstone much anxiety, as he could not help +dreading that they might attack him the next morning. His chief regret +was that his efforts for the welfare of the teeming population in that +great region would thus be frustrated by savages, of whom it might be +said: "They know not what they do." + +He felt especially anxious that the elevated and healthy district which +he had now discovered, stretching towards Tete, should become known. It +was such a region as he had been long in quest of as a centre from which +missionary enterprise might be carried into the surrounding country. + +While the party were proceeding along the banks of the river, passing +through a dense bush, three buffaloes broke through their line. The +doctor's ox galloped off, and, as he turned back, he saw one of his men +tossed several feet in the air. On returning, to his satisfaction he +found that the poor fellow had alighted on his face, and, although he +had been carried twenty yards on the animal's horns, he had in no way +suffered. On the creature's approaching him he had thrown down his load +and stabbed it in the side, when it caught him and carried him off +before he could escape. + +Soon after this they had evidence that they were approaching the +Portuguese settlements, by meeting a person with a jacket and hat on. +From this person, who was quite black, they learned that the Portuguese +settlement of Tete was on the other bank of the river, and that the +inhabitants had been engaged in war with the natives for some time past. + +This was disagreeable news, as Livingstone wished to be at peace with +both parties. + +As they approached the village of Mpende, that chief sent out his people +to enquire who the travellers were. The natives, on drawing near, +uttered strange cries and waved some bright red substance towards them. +Having lighted a fire, they threw some charms into it and hastened away, +uttering frightful screams, believing that they should thus frighten the +strangers and render them powerless. The Makololo, however, laughed at +their threats, but the doctor, fully believing that a skirmish would +take place, ordered an ox to be killed to feast his men, following the +plan Sebituane employed for giving his followers courage. + +At last two old men made their appearance and enquired if the doctor was +a Bazunga, or Portuguese. On showing his hair and white skin, they +replied: "Ah, you must be one of the tribe that loves black men." + +Finally the chief himself appeared, and expressed his regret that he had +not known sooner who they were, ultimately enabling them to cross the +river. + +After this they were detained for some time by the rains on the south +bank. + +In conversation with the people they exhibited the greatest hatred of +the slave-traders. + +Meeting with native traders, the doctor purchased some American calico +in order to clothe his men. It was marked "Lawrence Mills, Lowell," +with two small tusks, an interesting fact. + +Game laws existed even in this region. His party having killed an +elephant, he had to send back a considerable distance to give +information to the person in charge of the district, the owner himself +living near the Zambesi. Their messenger returned with a basket of +corn, a fowl, and a few strings of beads, a thank-offering to them for +having killed it. The tusk of the side on which the elephant fell +belonged to the owner, while the upper was the prize of the sportsman. +Had they begun to cut up the animal before receiving permission they +would have lost the whole. The men feasted on their half of the +carcass, and for two nights an immense number of hyaenas collected +round, uttering their loud laughter. + +The people inhabiting the country on this side of the Zambesi are known +as the Banyai. Their favourite weapon is a huge axe, which is carried +over the shoulder. It is used chiefly for ham-stringing the elephant, +in the same way as the Hamran Arab uses his sword. The Banyai, however, +steals on the animal unawares, while the Hamran hunter attacks it when +it is rushing in chase of one of his comrades, who gallops on ahead on a +well-trained steed. + +Those curious birds, the "honey guides," were very attentive to them, +and, by their means, the Makololo obtained an abundance of honey. Of +the wax, however, in those districts no use appears to be made. + +Though approaching the Portuguese settlement, abundance of game was +still found. The Makololo killed six buffalo calves from among a herd +which was met with. + +They were warned by the natives that they ran a great risk of being +attacked by lions when wandering on either side of the line of march in +search of honey. One of the doctor's head men, indeed, Monahin, having +been suddenly seized with a fit of insanity during the night, left the +camp, and, as he never returned, it was too probable that he had been +carried off by a lion. + +It was not till the 2nd of March that the neighbourhood of Tete was +reached. Livingstone was then so prostrated that, though only eight +miles from it, he could proceed no further. He forwarded, however, the +letters of recommendation he received in Angola to the commandant. The +following morning a company of soldiers with an officer arrived, +bringing the materials for a civilised breakfast, and a litter in which +to carry him. He felt so greatly revived by the breakfast, that he was +able to walk the whole way. + +He was received in the kindest way by Major Sicard, the commandant of +Tete, who provided also lodging and provision for his men. + +Tete is a mere village, built on a slope reaching to the water, close to +which the fort is situated. There are about thirty European houses; the +rest of the buildings, inhabited by the natives, are of wattle and daub. + +Formerly, besides gold-dust and ivory, large quantities of grain, +coffee, sugar, oil, and indigo were exported from Tete, but, on the +establishment of the slave trade, the merchants found a more speedy way +of becoming rich, by selling off their slaves, and the plantations and +gold washings were abandoned, the labourers having been exported to the +Brazils. Many of the white men then followed their slaves. After this, +a native of Goa, Nyaude by name, built a stockade at the confluence of +the Luenya and Zambesi, took the commandant of Tete, who attacked him, +prisoner, and sent his son Bonga with a force against that town and +burned it. Others followed his example, till commerce, before rendered +stagnant by the slave trade, was totally obstructed. + +On the north shore of the Zambesi several fine seams of coal exist, +which Dr Livingstone examined. The natives only collect gold from the +neighbourhood whenever they wish to purchase calico. On finding a piece +or flake of gold, however, they bury it again, believing that it is the +seed of the gold, and, though knowing its value, prefer losing it rather +than, as they suppose, the whole future crop. + +Dr Livingstone found it necessary to leave most of his men here, and +Major Sicard liberally gave them a portion of land that they might +cultivate it, supplying them in the mean time with corn. He also +allowed the young men to go out and hunt elephants with his servants, +that they might purchase goods with the ivory and dry meat, in order +that they might take them back with them on returning to their own +homes. He also supplied them with cloth. Sixty or seventy at once +accepted his offer, delighted with the thoughts of engaging in so +profitable an enterprise. He also supplied the doctor with an outfit, +refusing to take the payment which was offered. + +The forests in the neighbourhood abound with elephants, and the natives +attack them in the boldest manner. Only two hunters sally forth +together--one carrying spears, the other an axe of a peculiar shape, +with a long handle. As soon as an elephant is discovered, the man with +the spears creeps among the bushes in front of it, so as to attract its +attention, during which time the axe-man cautiously approaches from +behind, and, with a sweep of his formidable weapon, severs the tendon of +the animal's hock. The huge creature, now unable to move in spite of +its strength and sagacity, falls an easy prey to the two hunters. + +Among other valuable productions of the country is found a tree allied +to the cinchona. The Portuguese believe that it has the same virtues as +quinine. + +As soon as the doctor had recovered his strength he prepared to proceed +down the river to Kilimane, or Quillimane, with sixteen of his faithful +Makololo as a crew. Many of the rest were out elephant hunting, while +others had established a brisk trade in firewood. + +Major Sicard lent him a boat, and sent Lieutenant Miranda to escort him +to the coast. + +On their way they touched at the stockade of the rebel, Bonga, whose +son-in-law, Manoel, received them in a friendly way. + +They next touched at Senna, which was found in a wretchedly ruinous +condition. Here some of the Makololo accepted employment from +Lieutenant Miranda to return to Tete with a load of goods. Eight +accompanied the doctor, at their earnest request, to Quillimane. + +He reached that village on the 20th of May, 1856, when it wanted but a +few days of being four years since he started from Cape Town. He was +hospitably received by Colonel Nunes. A severe famine had existed among +the neighbouring population, and food was very scarce. He therefore +advised his men to go back to Tete as soon as possible, and await his +return from England. They still earnestly wished to accompany him, as +Sekeletu had advised them not to part with him till they had reached +Ma-Robert, as they called Mrs Livingstone, and brought her back with +them. + +With the smaller tusks he had in his possession he purchased calico and +brass-wire, which he sent back to Tete for his followers, depositing the +remaining twenty tusks with Colonel Nunes, in order that, should he be +prevented from revisiting the country, it might not be supposed that he +had made away with Sekeletu's ivory. He requested Colonel Nunes, in +case of his death, to sell the tusks and deliver the proceeds to his +men, intending to purchase the goods ordered by Sekeletu in England with +his own money, and, on his return, repay himself out of the price of the +ivory. + +He consented, somewhat unwillingly, to take Sekwebu with him to England. + +After waiting about six weeks at Quillimane, HM brig "Frolic" arrived, +on board which he embarked. A fearful sea broke over the bar, and the +brig was rolling so much that there was great difficulty in reaching her +deck. Poor Sekwebu looked at his friend, asking: "Is this the way you +go?" The doctor tried to encourage him; but, though well acquainted +with canoes, he had never seen anything like it. + +Having been three and a half years, with the exception of a short +interval in Angola, without speaking English, and for thirteen but +partially using it, the doctor found the greatest difficulty in +expressing himself on board the "Frolic." + +The brig sailed on the 12th of July for the Mauritius, which was reached +on the 12th of August. Poor Sekwebu had become a favourite both with +men and officers, and was gaining some knowledge of English, though all +he saw had apparently affected his mind. The sight of a steamer, which +came out to tow the brig into the harbour, so affected him that during +the night he became insane and threatened to throw himself into the +water. By gentle treatment he became calmer, and Dr Livingstone tried +to get him on shore, but he refused to go. In the evening his malady +returned; and, after attempting to spear one of the crew, he leaped +overboard and, pulling himself down by the chain cable, disappeared. +The body of poor Sekwebu was never found. + +After remaining some time at the Mauritius, till he had recovered from +the effects of the African fever, our enterprising traveller sailed by +way of the Red Sea for old England, which he reached on the 12th of +December, 1856. + +Dr Livingstone, in the series of journeys which have been described, +had already accomplished more than any previous traveller in Africa, +besides having gained information of the greatest value as regards both +missionary and mercantile enterprise. He had as yet, however, performed +only a small portion of the great work his untiring zeal and energy have +prompted him to undertake. + + + +CHAPTER TWENTY ONE. + +DR. LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND EXPEDITION TO AFRICA, TO EXPLORE THE ZAMBESI. + +LEAVES ENGLAND--ARRIVES AT THE EAST COAST--UP THE LUAWE--THE LITTLE +"MA-ROBERT"--WAR--COMMENCE THE VOYAGE FOR TETE--SENNA--ARRIVES AT TETE-- +THE KEBRABASA FALLS--RETURNS TO TETE--UP THE SHIRE, AND RETURN--THE +SECOND TRIP UP THE SHIRE--SETS OUT FOR LAKE SHIRWA--RETURNS TO TETE--SET +OUT FOR LAKE NYASSA--TREACHERY--ARRIVE AT THE LAKE--RETURNS TO THE +KONGONE--JOURNEY WESTWARD--A PONDORO--SUPERSTITION--PASSING KEBRABASA, +ARRIVE IN MPENDE'S TERRITORY--REACHES MOACHEMBA--SETS OUT FOR VICTORIA +FALLS--TUBA, THE SMASHER OF CANOES--LEAVE SESHEKE--MORE SUPERSTITION-- +REACH ZUNIBO--DOWN THE KEBRABASA RAPIDS--CANOES UPSET--ARRIVE AT TETE-- +THE CHAMELEON. + +After spending rather more than a year in England, Dr Livingstone again +set out, on the 10th of March, 1858, on board HMS "Pearl," at the head +of a government expedition for the purpose of exploring the Zambesi and +the neighbouring regions. He was accompanied by Dr Kirk, his brother +Charles Livingstone, and Mr Thornton; and Mr T. Baines was appointed +artist to the expedition. + +A small steamer, which was called the "Ma-Robert," in compliment to Mrs +Livingstone, was provided by the government for the navigation of the +river. + +The East Coast was reached in May. + +Running up the river Luawe, supposed to be a branch of the Zambesi, the +"Pearl" came to an anchor, and the "Ma-Robert," which had been brought +out in sections, was screwed together. The two vessels then went +together in search of the real mouth of the river, from which Quillimane +is some sixty miles distant, the Portuguese having concealed the real +entrance, if they were acquainted with it, in order to deceive the +English cruisers in search of slavers. + +The goods for the expedition brought out by the "Pearl" having been +landed on a grassy island about forty miles from the bar, that vessel +sailed for Ceylon, while the little "Ma-Robert" was left to pursue her +course alone. Her crew consisted of about a dozen Krumen and a few +Europeans. + +At Mazaro, the mouth of a creek communicating with the Quillimane or +Kilimane River, the expedition heard that the Portuguese were at war +with a half-caste named Mariano, a brother of Bonga, who had built a +stockade near the mouth of the Shire, and held possession of all the +intermediate country. He had been in the habit of sending out his armed +bands on slave-hunting expeditions among the helpless tribes to the +north-west, selling his victims at Quillimane, where they were shipped +as free emigrants to the French island of Bourbon. As long as his +robberies and murders were restricted to the natives at a distance, the +Portuguese did not interfere, but when he began to carry off and murder +the people near them, they thought it time to put a stop to his +proceedings. They spoke of him as a rare monster of inhumanity. He +frequently killed people with his own hand in order to make his name +dreaded. Having gone down to Quillimane to arrange with the governor, +or, in other words, to bribe him, Colonel Da Silva put him in prison and +sent him for trial to Mozambique. The war, however, was continued under +his brother Bonga, and had stopped all trade on the river. + +The expedition witnessed a battle at Mazaro, between Bonga and the +Portuguese, when Dr Livingstone, landing, found himself in the +sickening smell and among the mutilated bodies of the slain. He brought +off the governor, who was in a fever, the balls whistling about his head +in all directions. The Portuguese then escaped to an island opposite +Shupanga, where, having exhausted their ammunition, they were compelled +to remain. + +There is a one-storied house at Shupanga, from which there is a +magnificent view down the river. Near it is a large baobab-tree, +beneath which, a few years later, the remains of the beloved wife of Dr +Livingstone were to repose. + +On the 17th of August the "Ma-Robert" commenced her voyage up the stream +for Tete. It was soon found that her furnaces being badly constructed, +and that from other causes she was ill adapted for the work before her. +She quickly, in consequence, obtained the name of the "Asthmatical." + +Senna, which was visited on the way, being situated on low ground, is a +fever-giving place. The steamer, of course, caused great astonishment +to the people, who assembled in crowds to witness her movements, +whirling round their arms to show the way the paddles revolved. + +Tete was reached on the 8th of September. No sooner did Dr Livingstone +go on shore, than his Makololo rushed down to the water's edge, and +manifested the greatest joy at seeing him. Six of the young men had +foolishly gone off to make money by dancing before some of the +neighbouring chiefs, when they fell into the hands of Bonga, who, +declaring that they had brought witchcraft medicine to kill him, put +them all to death. + +The Portuguese at this place keep numerous slaves, whom they treat with +tolerable humanity. When they can they purchase the whole of a family, +thus taking away the chief inducement for running off. + +The expedition having heard of the Kebrabasa Falls, steamed up the +river, and on the 24th of November reached Panda Mokua, where the +navigation ends, about two miles below them. Hence the party started +overland, by a frightfully rough path among rocky hills, where no shade +was to be found. At last their guides declared that they could go no +further; indeed, the surface of the ground was so hot that the soles of +the Makololos' feet became blistered. The travellers, however, pushed +on. Passing round a steep promontory, they beheld the river at their +feet, the channel jammed in between two mountains with perpendicular +sides, and less than fifty yards wide. There is a sloping fall of about +twenty feet in height, and another at a distance of thirty yards above +it. When, however, the river rises upwards of eighty feet +perpendicularly, as it does in the rainy season, the cataract might be +passed in boats. + +After returning to Tete, the steamer went up the Shire, January, 1859. +The natives, as they passed them, collected at their villages in large +numbers, armed with bows and poisoned arrows, threatening to attack +them. Dr Livingstone, however, went on shore, and explained to the +chief, Tingane, that they had come neither to take slaves nor to fight, +but wished to open up a path by which his countrymen could ascend to +purchase their cotton. On this Tingane at once became friendly. + +Their progress was arrested, after steaming up a hundred miles in a +straight line, although, counting the windings of the river, double that +distance, by magnificent cataracts known to the natives as those of the +Mamvira, but called by the expedition the Murchison Falls. + +Rain prevented them making observations, and they returned at a rapid +rate down the river. + +A second trip up it was made in March of the same year. They here +gained the friendship of Chibisa, a shrewd and intelligent chief, whose +village was about ten miles below the cataracts. He told the doctor +that a few years before his little daughter had been kidnapped, and was +now a slave to the _padre_ at Tete, asking him, if possible, to ransom +the child. + +From hence Dr Livingstone and Dr Kirk proceeded on foot in a northerly +direction to Lake Shirwa. The natives turned out from their villages, +sounding notes of defiance on their drums; but the efforts to persuade +them that their visitors came as friends were successful, and the lake +was discovered on the 18th of April. + +From having no outlet, the water is brackish, with hilly islands rising +out of it. The country around appeared very beautiful and clothed with +rich vegetation, with lofty mountains eight thousand feet high near the +eastern shore. + +On their return they found Quartermaster Walker, who had charge of the +steamer, dangerously ill, though he ultimately recovered. + +They returned to Tete on the 23rd of June, and thence, after the steamer +had been repaired, proceeded to the Kongone, where they received +provisions from HMS "Persian," which also took on board their Krumen, as +they were found useless for land journeys. In their stead a crew was +picked out from the Makololo, who soon learned to work the ship, and +who, besides being good travellers, could cut wood and required only +native food. + +Frequent showers fell on their return voyage up the Zambesi, and, the +vessel being leaky, the cabin was constantly flooded, both from above +and below. + +They were visited on their way up by Paul, a relative of the rebel +Mariano, who had just returned from Mozambique. He told them that the +Portuguese knew nothing of the Kongone before they had discovered it, +always supposing that the Zambesi entered the sea at Quillimane. + +A second trip up the Shire was performed in the middle of August, when +the two doctors set out in search of Lake Nyassa, about which they had +heard. + +The river, though narrow, is deeper than the Zambesi, and more easily +navigated. + +Marks of large game were seen, and one of the Makololo, who had gone on +shore to cut wood, was suddenly charged at by a solitary buffalo. He +took to flight, pursued by the maddened animal, and was scarcely six +feet before the creature when he reached the bank and sprang into the +river. On both banks a number of hippopotamus-traps were seen. + +The animal feeds on grass alone, its enormous lip acting like a mowing +machine, forming a path before it as it feeds. Over these paths the +natives construct a trap, consisting of a heavy beam, five or six feet +long, with a spear-head at one end, covered with poison. This weapon is +hung to a forked pole by a rope which leads across the path, and is held +by a catch, set free as the animal treads upon it. A hippopotamus was +seen which, being frightened by the steamer, rushed on shore and ran +immediately under one of these traps, when down came the heavy beam on +its head. + +The leaks in the steamer increased till the cabin became scarcely +habitable. + +The neighbourhood of Chibisa's village was reached on the 25th of +August. + +The doctor had now to send word to the chief that his attempts to +recover his child had failed, for, though he had offered twice the value +of a slave, the little girl could not be found, the _padre_ having sold +her to a distant tribe of Bazizulu. Though this _padre_ was better than +the average, he appeared very indifferent about the matter. + +On the 28th of August, an expedition consisting of four whites, +thirty-six Makololo, and two guides left the ship in the hopes of +discovering Lake Nyassa. The natives on the road were very eager to +trade. As soon as they found that the strangers would pay for their +provisions in cotton cloth, women and girls were set to grind and pound +meal, and the men and boys were seen chasing screaming fowl over the +village. A head man brought some meal and other food for sale; a fathom +of blue cloth was got out, when the Makololo head man, thinking a +portion was enough, was proceeding to tear it. On this the native +remarked that it was a pity to cut such a nice dress for his wife, and +he would rather bring more meal. "All right," said the Makololo, "but +look, the cloth is very wide, so see that the basket which carries the +meal be wide too, and add a cock to make the meal taste nicely." + +The highland women of these regions all wear the _pelele_, or lip-ring, +before described. An old chief, when asked why such things were worn, +replied: "for beauty; men have beards and whiskers, women have none. +What kind of creature would a woman be without whiskers and without the +_pelele_?" + +When, as they calculated, they were about a day's march from Lake +Nyassa, the chief of the village assured them positively that no lake +had ever been heard of there, and that the river Shire stretched on, as +they saw it, to a distance of two months, and then came out between two +rocks which towered to the skies. The Makololo looked blank, and +proposed returning to the ship. + +"Never mind," said the doctor, "we will go on and see these wonderful +rocks." + +Their head man, Massakasa declared that there must be a lake, because it +was in the white men's books, and scolded the natives for speaking a +falsehood. They then admitted that there was a lake. The chief brought +them a present in the evening. Scarcely had he gone when a fearful cry +arose from the river; a crocodile had carried off his principal wife. +The Makololo, seizing their arms, rushed to her rescue; but it was too +late. + +The expedition moving forward, on the 16th of September, 1859, the +long-looked-for Lake Nyassa was discovered, with hills rising on both +sides of it. + +Two months after this the lake was visited by Dr Roscher, who was +unaware of Dr Livingstone's and Dr Kirk's discovery; unhappily he was +murdered on his road back towards the Rovuma. + +The travellers were now visited by the chief of a village near the +confluence of the lake and the river, who invited them to form their +camp under a magnificent banyan-tree among the roots of which, twisted +into the shape of a gigantic arm-chair, four of the party slept. The +chief told them that a slave party, led by Arabs, was encamped near at +hand; and in the evening a villainous set of fellows, with long muskets, +brought several young children for sale; but, finding that the +travellers were English, they decamped, showing signs of fear. The +people of the Manjanga tribe, amidst whom they were now travelling, +showed much suspicion of their object, saying that parties had come +before with the same sort of plausible story, and had suddenly carried +off a number of their people. To allay these suspicions, Dr +Livingstone thought it best at once to return to the ship. + +Soon afterwards Dr Kirk and Mr Rae, the engineer, set off with guides +to go across the country to Tete, the distance being about one hundred +miles. From want of water they suffered greatly, while the _tsetse_ +infested the district. + +Dr Livingstone had resolved to visit his old friend Sekeletu; but, +finding that before the new crop came in, food could not be obtained +beyond the Kebrabasa, he returned in the "Ma-Robert" once more to the +Kongone. + +They found Major Sicard at Mazaro, he having come there with tools and +slaves to build a custom-house and fort. + +After this trip, the poor "Asthmatic" broke down completely; she was +therefore laid alongside the island of Kanyimbe, opposite Tete, and +placed under charge of two English sailors. They were furnished with a +supply of seeds to form a garden, both to afford them occupation and +food. + +Active preparations were now made for the intended journey westward; +cloth, beads, and brass-wire were formed into packages, with the +bearer's name printed on each. + +The Makololo who had been employed by the expedition received their +wages. Some of those who had remained at Tete had married, and resolved +to continue where they were. Others did not leave with the same good +will they had before exhibited, and it was doubtful, if attacked, +whether they would not run to return to their lately-formed friends. + +All arrangements had been concluded by the 15th of May, 1860, and the +journey was commenced. + +As the Banyai, who live on the right bank, were said to levy heavy +fines, the party crossed over to the left. + +Dr Livingstone was stopping near the Kebrabasa village, when a man +appeared, who pretended that he was a _pondoro_; that is, that he could +change himself into a lion whenever he chose--a statement his countrymen +fully believed. Sometimes the _pondoro_ hunts for the benefit of the +villagers, when his wife takes him some medicine which enables him to +change himself back into a man. She then announces what game has been +killed, and the villagers go into the forest to bring it home. The +people believe also that the souls of the departed chiefs enter into +lions. One night, a buffalo having been killed, a lion came close to +the camp, when the Makololo declared that he was a _pondoro_, and told +him that he ought to be ashamed of himself for trying to steal the meat +of strangers. The lion, however, disregarding their addresses, only +roared louder than ever, though he wisely kept outside the bright circle +of the camp-fires. A little strychnine was placed on a piece of meat +and thrown to him, after which he took his departure, and was never +again seen. + +Again passing Kebrabasa, the travellers enjoyed the magnificent mountain +scenery in this neighbourhood, and came to the conclusion that not only +it, but the Morumbwa could, when the river rises, be passed, so as to +allow of a steamer being carried up to run on the upper Zambesi. + +On the 20th of June they reached the territory of the chief Mpende, who +had, on Dr Livingstone's journey to the East Coast, threatened to +attack him. Having in the mean time heard that he belonged to a race +who love black men and did not make slaves, his conduct was now +completely changed, and he showed every desire to be friendly. + +Game was abundant, and lions were especially numerous. + +After visiting Zumbo, Dr Kirk was taken dangerously ill. He got better +on the high ground, but immediately he descended into the valley he +always felt chilly. In six days, however, he was himself again, and +able to march as well as the rest. + +Again abundance of honey was obtained through the means of the "honey +guide." The bird never deceived them, always guiding them to a hive of +bees, though sometimes there was but little honey in it. + +On the 4th of August the expedition reached Moachemba, the first of the +Batoka villages, which owe allegiance to Sekeletu. From thence, beyond +a beautiful valley, the columns of vapour rising from the Victoria +Falls, upwards of twenty miles away, could clearly be distinguished. + +The Makololo here received intelligence of their families, and news of +the sad termination of the attempt to plant a mission at Linyanti, under +the Reverend H. Helmore. He and several white men had died, and the +remainder had only a few weeks before returned, to Kuruman. + +At the village opposite Kalai the Malokolo head man, Mashotlane, paid +the travellers a visit. He entered the hut where they were seated, a +little boy carrying a three-legged stool. In a dignified way the chief +took his seat, presenting some boiled hippopotamus meat. Having then +taken a piece himself, he handed the rest to his followers. He had +lately been attacking the Batoka, and when the doctor represented to him +the wrongfulness of the act, he defended himself by declaring that they +had killed some of his companions. Here also they found Pitsane, who +had been sent by Sekeletu to purchase horses from a band of Griquas. + +As the new-comers were naturally anxious to see the magnificent falls, +they embarked in some canoes belonging to Tuba Mokoro ("a smasher of +canoes"), who alone, they were assured, possessed the medicine which +would prevent shipwreck in the rapids. Tuba conducted them at a rapid +rate down the river. It required considerable confidence in his skill +not to feel somewhat uneasy as they navigated these roaring waters. +They were advised not to speak, lest their talking might diminish the +virtue of the medicine; few indeed would have thought of disobeying the +orders of the canoe-smasher. One man stood at the head of the canoe, +looking out for rocks and telling the steersman the course to take. +Often it seemed as if they would be dashed to pieces against the dark +rocks jutting out from the water, then in a moment the ready pole turned +the canoe aside, and they quickly glided past the danger. As they went +swiftly driving down, a black rock, with the foam flowing over it, rose +before them; the pole slipped, the canoe struck and in a moment was half +full of water. Tuba, however, speedily recovering himself, shoved off, +and they reached a shallow place, where the water was bailed out. He +asserted that it was not the medicine was at fault, but that he had +started without his breakfast. + +The travellers landed at the head of Garden Island, and, as the doctor +had done before, peered over the giddy heights at the further end across +the chasm. The measurement of the chasm was now taken; it was found to +be eighty yards opposite Garden Island, while the waterfall itself was +twice the depth of that of Niagara, and the river where it went over the +rock fully a mile wide. Charles Livingstone, who had seen Niagara, +pronounced it inferior in magnificence to the Victoria Falls. + +The Batokas consider Garden Island and another further west as sacred +spots, and here, in days gone by, they assembled to worship the Deity. + +Dr Livingstone, on his former visit, had planted a number of +orange-trees and seeds at Garden Island, but though a hedge had been +placed round them, they had all been destroyed by the hippopotami. +Others were now put in. They also, as was afterwards found, shared the +same fate. + +They now proceeded up the river, and, on the 13th, met a party from +Sekeletu, who was now at Sesheke, and had sent to welcome them. On the +18th they entered his town. They were requested to take up their +quarters at the old _kotlar_, or public meeting-place tree. During the +day visitors continually called on them, all complaining of the +misfortunes they had suffered. The condition of Sekeletu, however, was +the most lamentable. He had been attacked by leprosy, and it was said +that his fingers had become like eagles' claws, and his face so +fearfully distorted that no one could recognise him. One of their head +men had been put to death, it being supposed that he had bewitched the +chief. The native doctors could do nothing for him, but he was under +the charge of an old doctress of the Manyeti tribe, who allowed no one +to see him except his mother and uncle. He, however, sent for Dr +Livingstone, who gladly went to him. He and Dr Kirk at once told him +that the disease was most difficult to cure, and that he might rest +assured he had not been bewitched. They applied lunar caustic +externally and hydrate of potash internally, with satisfactory results; +so that in the course of a short time the poor chief's appearance +greatly improved. + +Although the tribe had been suffering from famine, the chief treated his +visitors with all the hospitality in his power. + +Some Benguela traders had come up to Sesheke, intending probably to +return from the Batoka country to the east with slaves; but the +Makololo, however, had secured all the ivory in that region. As the +traders found that the trade in slaves without ivory did not pay, they +knew it would not be profitable to obtain them, for Sekeletu would allow +no slaves to be carried through his territory, and thus by his means an +extensive slave-mart was closed. + +Sekeletu was greatly pleased with the articles the doctor brought him +from England, and enquired whether a ship could not bring up the +remainder of the goods which had been left at Tete. On being told that +possibly a steamer might ascend as far as Sinainanes, he enquired +whether a cannon could not blow away the Victoria Falls, so as to enable +her to reach Sesheke. + +The Makololo, who had been sent down to Benguela, came to pay the +travellers a visit, dressed in well-washed shirts, coats, and trousers, +patent leather boots, and brown wideawakes on their heads. They had a +long conversation with their men about the wonderful things they had all +seen. + +Sekeletu, who took a great fancy to Dr Kirk, offered him permission to +select any part of the country he might chose for the establishment of +an English colony. Indeed, there is sufficient uncultivated ground on +the cool unpeopled highlands for a very large population. + +The Makololo are apt to get into trouble by their propensity to lift +cattle; for if their marauding is sanctioned by the chief, they do not +look upon it as dishonourable. This custom must be put a stop to if any +good is to be done to them, as must the gigantic evil of the slave trade +among the tribes nearer the coast. + +The expedition left Sesheke on the 17th of September, 1860, convoyed by +Pitsane and Leshore. Pitsane was directed to form a hedge round the +garden at the falls on his way. + +When navigating the river the canoe-men kept close to the bank during +the day for fear of being upset by the hippopotami, but at night, when +those animals are found near the shore, they sailed down the middle of +the stream. + +The canoes were wretched, and a strong wind blew against them, but their +Batoka boatmen managed them with great dexterity. Some of these men +accompanied the expedition the whole way to the sea. + +On their passage down the river, in approaching Kariba Rapids, they came +upon a herd of upwards of thirty hippopotami. The canoe-men were afraid +of venturing among them, asserting that there was sure to be an +ill-tempered one who would take a malignant pleasure in upsetting the +canoes. Several boys on the rocks were amusing themselves by throwing +stones at the frightened animals. One was shot, its body floating down +the current. A man hailed them from the bank, advising them to let him +pray to the Kariba gods that they might have a safe passage down the +rapids, for, without his assistance, they would certainly be drowned. +Notwithstanding, having examined the falls, seeing that canoes might be +carried down in safety, they continued their voyage. The natives were +much astonished to see them pass in safety without the aid of the +priest's intercession. + +Here they found the hippopotamus which had been shot, and, taking it in +tow, told the villagers that if they would follow to their +landing-place, they should have most of the meat. The crocodiles, +however, tugged so hard at it, that they were compelled to cast it +adrift and let the current float it down. They recovered the +hippopotamus, which was cut up at the place where they landed to spend +the night. As soon as it was dark, the crocodiles attacked the portion +that was left in the water, tearing away at it and lashing about +fiercely with their tails. + +A day or two afterwards they encamped near some pitfalls, in which +several buffaloes had shortly before been caught and one of the animals +had been left. During the night the wind blew directly from the dead +buffalo to their sleeping-place, and a hungry lion which came to feed on +the carcass so stirred up the putrid mass and growled so loudly over his +feast, that their slumbers were greatly disturbed. + +They reached Zumbo by the 1st of November. Here their men had a scurvy +trick played them by the Banyai. The Makololo had shot a hippopotamus, +when a number of the natives came across, pretending to assist them in +rolling it ashore, and advised them to cast off the rope, saying that it +was an encumbrance. All were shouting and talking, when suddenly the +carcass disappeared in a deep hole. The Makololo jumped in after it, +one catching the tail, another a foot, but down it went, and they got +but a lean fowl instead. It floated during the night, and was found +about a mile below, on the bank. The Banyai, however, there disputed +their right to it, and, rather than quarrel, the Makololo, after taking +a small portion, wisely allowed them to remain with the rest. + +Believing that there was sufficient depth of water, they ventured down +the Kebrabasa Rapids. For several miles they continued onward till, the +river narrowing, navigation became both difficult and dangerous. Two +canoes passed safely down the narrow channel with an ugly whirlpool, +caused by the water being divided by a rock in the centre. Dr +Livingstone's canoe came next, and while it appeared to be drifting +broadside into the vortex, a crash was heard, and Dr Kirk's canoe was +seen dashed against the perpendicular rock by a sudden boiling-up of the +river, which occurs at regular intervals. Dr Kirk grasped the rock and +saved himself, while his steersman, holding on to the same ledge, +preserved the canoe, but all its contents were lost, including the +doctor's notes of the journey, and botanical drawings of the fruit-trees +of the interior. After this the party, having had enough of navigation, +performed the remainder of the journey on shore. + +On their march they met two large slave-trading parties on their way to +Zumbo. Among them were a number of women with ropes round their necks, +and all made fast to one long rope. They were to be sold for ivory. + +Tete was reached on the 23rd of November, the expedition having been +absent rather more than six months. They were glad to find that the two +English sailors were in good health, and had behaved very well; but +their farm had been a failure. A few sheep and fowls had been left with +them: they had purchased more of the latter, and expected to have a good +supply of eggs, but they unfortunately also bought two monkeys, who ate +up all their eggs. One night a hippopotamus destroyed their vegetable +garden, the sheep ate up their cotton-plants, while the crocodiles +carried off the sheep, and the natives had stolen their fowls. + +Having discovered that the natives have a mortal dread of the chameleon, +one of which animals they had on board, they made good use of their +knowledge. They had learned the market price of provisions, and +determined to pay that and no more. When the traders, therefore, +demanded a higher price and refused to leave the ship till it was paid, +the chameleon was instantly brought out of the cabin, when the natives +sprang overboard and made no further attempt to impose upon them. + +The sailors had also performed a gallant act. They were aroused one +night by a fearful shriek, when they immediately pushed off in their +boat, supposing, as was found to be the case, that a crocodile had +caught a woman and was dragging her across a shallow bank. Before they +reached her, the reptile snapped off her leg. They carried her on +board, bandaged up her limb, bestowed Jack's usual remedy for all +complaints, a glass of grog, on her, and carried her to a hut in the +village. Next morning they found the bandages torn off and the poor +creature left to die, their opinion being that it had been done by her +master, to whom, as she had lost a leg, she would be of no further use, +and he did not wish the expense of keeping her. + + + +CHAPTER TWENTY TWO. + +DR. LIVINGSTONE'S EXPEDITION TO EXPLORE THE ZAMBESI, CONTINUED. + +SETS OUT AGAIN--CHRISTMAS AT CHIMBA ISLAND--SENNA--DOWN THE RIVER TO +CONGO--THE "PIONEER"--ARRIVAL OF BISHOP MACKENZIE--REACHES THE ROVUMA-- +BACK AGAIN AND UP THE ZAMBESI TO THE SHIRE--LIBERATION OF A PARTY OF +SLAVES--NEWS OF THE AJAWA STARTS FOR NYASSA--ENTERS THE LAKE-- +DESCRIBED--A STORM ON THE NYASSA--SLAVERY--RETURNS TO THE ROVUMA--SETS +OUT WITH BISHOP MACKENZIE FOR RUO--REACHES THE ZAMBESI, AND AFTERWARDS +PROCEEDS TO THE GREAT LUABO--ARRIVAL OF MRS. LIVINGSTONE AND THE "LADY +NYASSA"--BISHOP MACKENZIE'S DEATH--EXPLORES THE ROVUMA--AN ADVENTURE +WITH THE NATIVES--VISITS JOHANNA IN THE "PIONEER"--STEAMS UP THE SHIRE-- +EFFECTS OF THE SLAVE TRADE--MEETS MR. THORNTON--ATTACKED BY FEVER--MORE +OF THE SLAVE TRADE--START FOR THE UPPER CATARACTS--DESPATCHES FROM +ENGLAND--VISIT CHIA LAKELET--AN ARAB SLAVE-DHOW--LEAVES THE ZAMBESI, AND +ARRIVES AT BOMBAY. + +Once more, on the 3rd of December, the leaky "Asthmatic" was got under +way, but every day fresh misfortunes happened to her, till Rae declared: +"She cannot be worse than she is, sir." + +He and his mate, Hutchings, had done their best to patch her up, but her +condition was past their skill. On the morning of the 21st she grounded +on a sandbank and filled. The river rising, all that was visible the +next day was about six feet of her two masts. The property on board +was, however, saved, and the expedition spent their Christmas of 1860 +encamped on the island of Chimba. + +Canoes having been procured, they reached Senna on the 27th. They here +saw a large party of slaves belonging to the commandant, who had been up +to trade with Mozelekatse, carrying a thousand muskets and a large +quantity of gunpowder, and bringing back ivory, ostrich feathers, a +thousand sheep and goats, and thirty head of fine cattle, and in +addition a splendid white bull, to show that he and the traders parted +friends. The adventure, however, was a losing one to the poor +commandant: a fire had broken out in the camp, and the ostrich feathers +had been burned; the cattle had died from the bite of the _tsetse_, as +had the white bull, and six hundred of the sheep had been eaten by the +slaves, they thinking more of their own comfort than their master's +gain. + +This is one of the many proofs of the clearness of slave labour. + +Proceeding down the river in boats, the expedition reached Congo on the +4th of January, 1861. Here a flagstaff and a custom-house (a floorless +hut of mangrove stakes roofed with stakes) had been erected. + +The garrison of the place being almost starved, the provisions of the +expedition also ran short, though they obtained game in abundance. + +On the 31st the "Pioneer," the steamer which had been sent to replace +the "Asthmatic," appeared off the bar, but the bad weather prevented her +entering. At the same time two men-of-war arrived, bringing Bishop +Mackenzie at the head of the Oxford and Cambridge mission to the tribes +of the Shire and Lake Nyassa. It consisted of six Englishmen and five +coloured men from the Cape. The bishop wished at once to proceed up to +Chibisa; but the "Pioneer" was under orders to explore the Rovuma, and +it was ultimately arranged that the members of the mission should be +carried over to Johanna in the "Lyra" man-of-war, while the bishop +himself accompanied the expedition in the "Pioneer." + +They reached the mouth of the Rovuma on the 25th of February. The rainy +season was already half over, and the river had fallen considerably. + +The scenery was superior to that on the Zambesi. + +Eight miles from the mouth the mangrove disappeared, and a beautiful +range of well-wooded hills rose on either side. + +Unhappily fever broke out, and the navigation of the "Pioneer" fell to +the charge of Dr Livingstone and his companions. + +The water falling rapidly, it was considered dangerous to run the risk +of detention in the river for a year, and the ship returned down to the +sea. + +On their voyage back they touched at Mohilla, one of the Comoro Islands, +and from thence went on to Johanna, where they received the Bishop's +followers, and proceeded back to the Kongone. Thence they at once +directed their course up the Zambesi to the Shire. The "Pioneer," it +was found, drew too much water for the navigation of the river, and she +in consequence frequently grounded. + +Among his many duties, Charles Livingstone was engaged in collecting +specimens of cotton, and upwards of three hundred pounds were thus +obtained, at a price of less than a penny a pound, which showed that +cotton of a superior quality could be raised by native labour alone, and +that but for the slave trade a large amount might be raised in the +country. + +Wherever they went they gained the confidence of the people, and +hitherto the expedition had been eminently successful. No sooner, +however, did they come in contact with the Portuguese slave trade than +sad reverses commenced. Marauding parties of the Ajawa were desolating +the land, and a gang had crossed the river with slaves. Manjanga had +gone away just before they got the ship up to Chibisa; but his deputy +was civil, and supplied them with carriers to convey the bishop's goods +up the country. + +They halted at the village of their old friend, Mpende, who supplied +them with carriers, and informed them that a slave party on its way to +Tete would soon pass through his village. They consulted together. +Should they liberate the slaves? By a bold stroke they might possibly +put a stop to the slave trade, which had followed in their footsteps. A +few minutes afterwards a slave party, consisting of a long line of +manacled men, women, and children, escorted by black drivers armed with +muskets, adorned with articles of finery, and blowing horns, marched by +them with a triumphant air. Directly, however, the rascals caught sight +of the English, they darted off into the forest, with the exception of +the leader, who was seized by the Makololo. He proved to be a slave of +the late commandant of Tete, and was well-known to them. He declared +that he had bought the slaves; but directly his hands were released he +darted off. The captives now, kneeling down, expressed their thanks by +clapping their hands. Knives were soon busily at work setting free the +women and children. It was more difficult to liberate the men, who had +each his neck in the fork of a stout stick, six or seven feet long, and +kept in by an iron rod riveted at both ends across the throat. A saw, +produced from the bishop's baggage, performed the work. The men could +scarcely believe what was said, when they were told to take the meal +they were carrying and cook breakfast for themselves and children. Many +of the latter were about five years of age and under. One of them +observed to the men: "Those others tied and starved us; you cut the +ropes, and tell us to eat! What sort of people are you?" + +Two women had been shot the previous day for attempting to untie the +thongs, and another had her infant's brains knocked out because she +could not at the same time carry her load and it. The rest were told +that this was done to prevent them from attempting to escape. The +bishop was not present, having gone to bathe just before; but when he +returned, he approved of what had been done. + +Eighty-four persons, chiefly women and children, were thus liberated; +and being told that they might go where they liked, they decided on +remaining with the English. The men willingly carried the bishop's +goods. + +Eight others were freed in a hamlet on the road; but another party, with +nearly a hundred slaves, though followed by Dr Kirk and four Makololo, +escaped. Six more captives were soon afterwards liberated, and two +slave-dealers were detained for the night, but being carelessly watched +by two of the bishop's black men, who had volunteered to stand guard +over them, they escaped. The next day fifty more slaves were freed at +another village and comfortably clothed. + +At Chigunda a Manjanga chief had invited the bishop to settle in his +country near Magomero, adding that there was room enough for both. This +spontaneous invitation seemed to decide the bishop on the subject. + +Marching forward, on the 22nd news was received that the Ajawa were +near, burning villages; and at once the doctor and his companions +advanced to seek an interview with these scourges of the country. On +their way they met crowds of Manjangas flying, having left all their +property and food behind them. Numerous fields of Indian corn were +passed, but there was no one to reap them. All the villages were +deserted. One, where on the previous visit a number of men had been +seen peacefully weaving cloth, was burned, and the stores of grain +scattered over the plain and along the paths. The smoke of burning +villages was seen in front, and triumphant shouts, mingled with the wail +of the Manjanga women lamenting over the slain, reached their ears. The +bishop knelt and engaged in prayer, and on rising, a long line of Ajawa +warriors with their captives was seen. In a short time the travellers +were surrounded, the savages shooting their poisoned arrows and dancing +hideously. Some had muskets, but, on shots being fired at them, they +ran off. The main body in the mean time decamped with the captives, two +only of whom escaped and joined their new friends. Most of the party +proposed going at once to the rescue of the captive Manjanga; but this +Dr Livingstone opposed, believing that it would be better for the +bishop to wait the effect of the check given to the slave-hunters. It +was evident that the Ajawa were instigated by the Portuguese agents from +Tete. It was possible that they might by persuasion be induced to +follow the better course, but, from their long habit of slaving for the +Quillimane market, this appeared doubtful. The bishop consulted Dr +Livingstone as to whether, should the Manjangas ask his assistance +against the Ajawa, it would be his duty to give it? The reply was: "Do +not interfere in native quarrels." Leaving the members of the mission +encamped on a beautiful spot, surrounded by stately trees, near the +clear little stream of Magomero, the expedition returned to the ship to +prepare for their journey to Lake Nyassa. + +On the 6th of August, 1861, the two doctors and Charles Livingstone +started in a four-oared gig, with one white sailor and twenty Makololo, +for Nyassa. Carriers were easily engaged to convey the boat past the +forty miles of the Murchison Cataracts. Numberless volunteers came +forward, and the men of one village transported it to the next. They +passed the little Lake of Pamalombe, about ten miles long and five +broad, surrounded thickly by papyrus. Myriads of mosquitos showed the +presence of malaria, and they hastened by it. + +Again launching their boat, they proceeded up the river, and entered the +lake on the 2nd of September, greatly refreshed by the cool air which +came off its wide expanse of water. The centre appeared to be of a deep +blue, while the shallow water along the edge was indicated by its light +green colour. A little from the shore the water was from nine to +fifteen fathoms in depth, but round a grand mountain promontory no +bottom could be obtained with their lead-line of thirty-five fathoms. +The lake was estimated to be about two hundred miles long and from +twenty to sixty broad. + +The lake appeared to be surrounded by mountains, but on the west they +were merely the edges of high table-land. + +It is visited by sudden and tremendous storms. One morning the sea +suddenly rose around them, preventing them from advancing or receding, +as the tremendous surf on the beach would have knocked their light boat +to pieces, while the waves came rolling on in threes, their crests +broken into spray. Had one of them struck the boat, nothing could have +saved her from being swamped. For six hours they remained at anchor a +little from the shore, thus exposed to the fury of the gale. The crew +became sea-sick and unable to keep the boat's head to the sea, while +some of their party who had remained on shore watched them, the natives +every moment exclaiming: "They are lost! they are all dead!" + +After this, every night they hauled the boat up on the beach; and, had +it not been supposed that these storms were peculiar to one season, they +would have given the Nyassa the name of the "Lake of Storms." + +A dense population exists on the shores of the lake, some being a tribe +of Zulus who came from the south some years ago. They own large herds +of cattle, and are on the increase by uniting other people to +themselves. The marshy spots are tenanted by flocks of ducks, geese, +cranes, herons, and numerous other birds. The people cultivate the +soil, growing large quantities of rice, sweet potatoes, maize, and +millet. Those at the north end reap a curious harvest. Clouds of what +appeared to be smoke rising from miles of burning grass were seen in the +distance. The appearance was caused by countless millions of midges. +As the voyagers' boat passed through them, eyes and mouth had to be kept +closed. The people collect these insects by night, and boil them into +thick cakes, to be eaten as a relish. One of the cakes, which tasted +like salted locusts, was presented to the doctor. + +Abundance of fish were caught, some with nets and others with hook and +line. Women were seen fishing, with babies on their backs. + +Enormous crocodiles were seen, but, as they can obtain abundance of +fish, they seldom attack men. When, however, its proper food is scarce, +the crocodile, as is always the case, becomes very dangerous. + +The lake tribes appear to be open-handed, and, whenever a net was drawn, +fish was invariably offered. On one occasion the inhabitants, on their +arrival, took out their seine, dragged it, and made their visitors a +present of the entire haul. The chiefs treated them also with +considerable kindness. One at the north of Marenga, who was living in a +stockade in a forest surrounded by a wide extent of country, which he +owned, made them beautiful presents. The doctor admiring an iron +bracelet studded with copper which the chief wore, he took it off and +presented to him, while his wife did the same with hers. + +Wherever the slave trade is carried on, the people are dishonest and +uncivil, and when they found that the English did not come to buy +slaves, they immediately put on a supercilious air, and sometimes +refused to sell them food. At one of these places a party of thieves +stole into the camp and carried off most of their goods, no one awaking, +though their rifles and revolvers were all ready. The cloth, having +been used for pillows, escaped, but nearly all their clothing was lost, +and even their note-books and specimens. + +On the high lands at the northern end, a tribe of Zulus, known as the +Mazitu, make sudden swoops on the villages of the plains, and carry off +the inhabitants and burn villages; and putrid bodies slain by Mazitu +spears were seen in all directions. In consequence of this the land +party, composed of blacks, were afraid of proceeding, and Dr +Livingstone accordingly landed to accompany them. While he struck +inland to go round a mountain, the boat pursued her course; but a fresh +gale compelled her to run in-shore. On continuing her voyage, a number +of armed Mazitu were seen on a small island, with several large canoes +belonging to them. It was evident that it was a nest of lake pirates. +Further on they met a still larger band, and the voyagers were ordered +to come on shore. On refusing, a number of canoes chased them, one with +nine paddlers persevering a considerable time, till a good breeze +enabled the gig to get away from them. This circumstance caused great +anxiety about Dr Livingstone. + +The boat party having sailed on for fifteen miles northward, he was +still nowhere to be seen, and they therefore resolved to return. +Another gale, however, compelled them to put into a harbour, where a +number of wretched fugitives from the slave trade, who had crossed from +the opposite shore, were found; but the ordinary inhabitants had been +swept off by the Mazitu. In their deserted gardens cotton of a fine +quality, with staple an inch and a half long, was seen growing, some of +the plants deserving to be ranked with trees. + +On returning, their former pursuers tried to induce them to come on +shore. + +Four days passed before Dr Livingstone with two of his party discovered +them. He had in the mean time fallen in with the Mazitu, who were armed +with spears and shields, and their heads fantastically dressed with +feathers. By his usual courage and determination he prevented them from +attacking him. When they demanded presents, he told them his goods were +in the boat; and when they insisted on having a coat, the Makololo +enquired how many of the party they had killed, that they thus began to +divide the spoil; and at last, suspecting that he had support at hand, +they took to their heels. + +Numerous elephants, surprisingly tame, were seen on the borders of the +lake even close to the villages, and hippopotami swarmed in all the +creeks and lagoons. Several were shot for food during the journey. +Sometimes food was thus abundant; at others, a few sardines served for +dinner. + +The slave trade on the lake was being pursued with fearful activity. A +dhow had been built by two Arabs, who were running her regularly, +crowded with slaves, across its waters. Part of the captives are +carried to the Portuguese slave-exporting town of Iboe, while others go +to Kilwa. + +The chiefs showed but little inclination to trade, their traffic being +chiefly in human chattels. + +Colonel Rigby states that nineteen thousand slaves from the Nyassa +country alone pass annually through the custom-house at Zanzibar. + +They, however, represent but a small portion of the sufferers. Besides +those actually captured, thousands are killed and die of their wounds +and famine; thousands more perish in internecine war waged for slaves +with their own clansmen and neighbours. The numerous skeletons seen +among rocks and woods, by the pools, and on the paths of the wilderness, +attest the awful sacrifice of human life. + +The doctor saw that a small armed steamer on Lake Nyassa could, by +furnishing goods in exchange for ivory and other products, exercise a +powerful influence in stopping the traffic in that quarter. + +The expedition had spent from the 2nd of September to the 27th of +October in exploring the lake, and their goods being now expended, it +was necessary to return to the ship. + +On their way back they fell in with a number of Manjanga families, +driven from their homes by Ajawa raids, taking shelter among the papyrus +growing on Lake Pamalombe, supporting themselves on the fine fish which +abound in it. + +The party reached the ship on the 8th of November, but in a weak +condition, having latterly suffered greatly from hunger. + +On the 14th they received a visit from the bishop, who appeared in +excellent spirits, and believed that all promised well for future +success. Many of the Manjanga had settled round Magomero to be under +his protection, and it was hoped that the slave trade would soon cease +in the neighbourhood. He here arranged to explore the country, from +Magomero to the mouth of the river, and it was agreed that the +"Pioneer," her draught being too great for the upper part of the Shire, +should on her next trip not go higher than Ruo. The bishop's hope was +to meet his sisters and Mrs Burrup, whose husband was one of his +assistants. + +With three hearty cheers, the "Pioneer" steamed down the river. The +rain ceasing, she unfortunately ran on a shoal, and was detained in an +unhealthy spot for five weeks. Here the carpenter's mate, a fine +healthy young man, was seized with fever and died. A permanent rise in +the river enabled them at last to get on. + +On reaching Ruo, they heard that Mariano had returned from Mozambique, +and was desolating the right bank of the river. He had lived in luxury +during his nominal imprisonment, and was now able to set the Portuguese +at defiance. An officer sent against him, instead of capturing the +rebel, was captured himself, but soon returned to Tete with a present of +ivory he had received. + +The Zambesi was reached on the 11th of January, 1862, when the "Pioneer" +proceeded to the Great Luabo mouth of the river. + +On the 30th HMS "Gorgon" arrived, towing the brig which brought out Mrs +Livingstone and some ladies about to join the University mission, as +well as the sections of a new iron steamer intended for the navigation +of Lake Nyassa. The name of the "Lady Nyassa" was given to the new +vessel. + +The "Pioneer," with as large a portion of the vessel as she could carry, +accompanied by two of the "Gorgon's" paddle-box boats, steamed off for +Ruo on the 10th of February. Captain Wilson, with several of his +officers and men, went on board her to render assistance. The ladies +also took their passage in her. Her progress was very slow, and six +months were expended before Shupanga was reached. Here the sections of +the "Lady Nyassa" were landed, and preparations were made to screw her +together. + +Captain Wilson had kindly gone on in his boat to Ruo, taking Miss +Mackenzie and Mrs Burrup and others. On reaching Ruo, greatly to their +dismay the chief declared that no white man had come to his village. +They thence went on to Chibisa, where the sad news was received of the +death of the bishop and Mr Burrup. Leaving the ladies under care of +Dr Ramsay, the "Gorgon's" surgeon, Captain Wilson and Dr Kirk hastened +up the hills to render assistance to the survivors, they themselves +suffering greatly, and Captain Wilson almost losing his life. + +The sad tale of the bishop's death has often been told. He had set off +in the hopes of rescuing some of his flock who had been kidnapped, and, +undergoing fatigue and exposure to rain far greater than his +constitution could stand, having been upset in a canoe and sleeping +afterwards in his wet clothes, had succumbed to fever when returning +with his companion, Mr Burrup, to Ruo. + +The Free Church of Scotland had sent out the Reverend J. Stewart to +form a mission. Before doing so he wisely determined to survey the +country thoroughly. After doing this he returned to England. He found +mere remnants of a once dense population on the banks of the Shire, now +scattered and destroyed by famine and slave-hunting. + +Captain Wilson returning to the "Pioneer," she, with the ladies on +board, steamed down to Kongone, when the whole of the mission party +except one left the country in the "Gorgon." + +The fever now attacked the crew of the "Pioneer," and only one man +remained fit for duty. She, however, continued carrying up the portions +of the "Lady Nyassa" to Shupanga. + +About the middle of April Mrs Livingstone was attacked by the disease. +Notwithstanding the most skilful medical aid rendered to her, her eyes +were closed in a Christian's death as the sun set on a sabbath day, the +27th of April, 1862. Her grave was placed beneath the great baobab-tree +in the spot before described, and the Reverend J. Stewart read the +burial service. There rested the daughter of the Missionary Moffat, +that Christian lady who had exercised such beneficial influence over the +rude tribes of the interior, and might, it was hoped, have renewed her +labours in the country to which she had come. + +The "Lady Nyassa" was now screwed together and her stores got on board; +but, as she could not be taken to the cataract before the rains in +December, the "Pioneer" sailed for Johanna to obtain mules and oxen to +convey her by land, after she had been taken to pieces, above the falls. + +To fill up the time the doctor resolved, on the return of the "Pioneer," +to explore the Rovuma in boats. She arrived at its mouth, towed by HMS +"Orestes." Captain Gardner and several of his officers accompanied them +two days in the the gig and cutter. The water was now low; but when +filled by the rains, in many respects the Rovuma appears superior to the +Zambesi. It would probably be valuable as a highway for commerce during +three-fourths of each year. + +Above Kichokomane was a fertile plain, studded with a number of deserted +villages. Its inhabitants were living on low sandbanks, though they had +left their property behind, fearing only being stolen themselves. They +showed, however, an unfriendly spirit to the white men, not +understanding their objects. The blacks assembled on the shore, and +evidently intended to attack the party as they passed the high bank, but +a stiff breeze swept the boats by. Attempts were made to persuade the +natives that the travellers had only peaceable intentions, that they +wished to be their friends, and that their countrymen bought cotton and +ivory. Notwithstanding this, these savages were not satisfied, and +their leader was seen urging them to fire. Many of them had muskets, +while others, who were armed with bows, held them with arrows ready set +to shoot. Still the doctor and his companions were exceedingly +unwilling to come to blows, and half an hour was spent, during which, at +any moment, they might have been struck by bullets or poisoned arrows. +The English assured them that they had plenty of ammunition, that they +did not wish to shed the blood of the children of the same Great Father, +and that if there was a fight, the guilt would be theirs. At last their +leader ordered them to lay down their arms, and he came, saying that the +river was theirs, and that the English must pay toll for leave to pass. +As it was better to do so than fight, the payment demanded was given, +and they promised to be friends ever afterwards. + +The sail was then hoisted, and the boats proceeded up, when they were +followed by a large party, as it was supposed merely to watch them, but +without a moment's warning the savages fired a volley of musket-balls +and poisoned arrows. Providentially they were so near that six arrows +passed over their heads, and four musket-balls alone went through the +sail. Their assailants immediately bolted, and did not again appear +till the boats had got to a considerable distance. A few shots were +fired over their heads, to give them an idea of the range of the +Englishmen's rifles. They had probably expected to kill some of the +party, and then in the confusion to rob the boats. + +They were more hospitably treated by a Makoa chief higher up, who had +been to Iboe, and once to Mozambique with slaves. + +His people refused to receive gaily-coloured prints, having probably +been deceived by sham ones before, preferring the plain blue stuff of +which they had experience. + +Another old chief, on seeing them go by, laid down his gun, and when +they landed approached them. + +They proceeded up to the cataracts of the Rovuma, but finding that the +distance overland was far greater to Lake Nyassa than that by +Murchison's Cataracts on the Shire, they considered it best to take +their steamer up by that route. + +After having been away a month, they reached the "Pioneer" on the 9th of +October. The ship's company had used distilled water, and not a single +case of sickness had occurred on board, while those who had been in the +boats had some slight attacks. + +After this they put to sea and visited Johanna, returning to the +fever-haunted village of Quillimane. Here they were kindly entertained +by one of the few honourable Portuguese officials they met with in that +region, Colonel Nunes. He came out as a cabin-boy, and, by persevering +energy, has become the richest man on the East Coast. + +On the 10th of January, 1863, the "Pioneer," with the "Lady Nyassa" in +tow, steamed up the Shire. + +They soon met signs of the bandit slave-hunter Mariano's expedition. +Dead bodies floated by them in great numbers, and for scores of miles +the entire population had been swept away. The river banks, once so +populous, were all now silent. The remains of burnt villages were +everywhere seen, and oppressive silence reigned where once crowds of +eager sellers had before come off with the produce of their industry. +Their friend Tingane had been defeated, and his people killed, +kidnapped, or forced to fly. In every direction they encountered the +sight and smell of dead bodies. The skeletons of those who had fallen +in their flight lay everywhere on the roads, while the ghastly forms of +boys and girls in the last stage of starvation were seen crouching +beside the huts. + +The grave of the good bishop was visited. How would his heart have bled +had he lived to witness the scenes they did! + +A hippopotamus was shot, and, at the end of three days after, it +floated. As the boat was towing it, immense numbers of crocodiles +followed, and it was necessary to fire at them to keep them off. It is +said that the crocodile never eats fresh meat; indeed, the more putrid +it becomes, the better he enjoys his repast, as he can thus tear the +carcass more easily. The corpse of a boy was seen floating by. Several +crocodiles dashed at it, fighting for their prey, and in a few seconds +it disappeared. Sixty-seven of the repulsive reptiles were seen on one +bank. The natives eat the animal, but few who had witnessed the +horrible food on which they banquet would willingly feed on their flesh. + +Their former companion, Mr Thornton, here rejoined them. Hearing that +the remaining members of the bishop's party were in want at Chibisa, he +volunteered to carry over a supply of goats and sheep to them. Overcome +by the fatigues of the journey, he was attacked by fever, which +terminated fatally on the 21st of April, 1863. + +The whole of the once pleasant Shire valley was now a scene of +wide-spread desolation. Fearful famine had followed the slave raids, +and the sights which met their eye in every direction were +heart-rending. The ground was literally covered with human bones. +"Many had ended their career under the shade of trees, others under +projecting crags of the hills, while others lay in their huts with +closed doors, which, when opened, disclosed the mouldering corpse with a +few rags round the loins, the skull fallen off the pillow; the little +skeleton of a child that had perished first, rolled up in a mat between +two large skeletons." + +Hoping that the "Lady Nyassa" might be the means of putting a check on +the slavers across the lake, they hurried on with their work. She was +unscrewed at a spot about five hundred yards below the first cataract, +and they began to make a road over the portage of forty miles, by which +she was to be carried piecemeal. + +Trees had to be cut down and stones removed. The first half-mile of +road was formed up a gradual slope till two hundred feet above the river +was reached, where a sensible difference in the climate was felt. +Before much progress was made, Dr Kirk and Charles Livingstone were +seized with fever, and it was deemed absolutely necessary that they +should be sent home. Soon afterwards Dr Livingstone was himself +attacked. + +The "Pioneer" meantime was roofed over and left in charge of the +trustworthy gunner, Mr Young. + +One day, an empty canoe was seen floating down with a woman swimming +near it. The boat put off and brought her on board, when she was found +to have an arrow-head in the middle of her back. A native cut it out, +and, notwithstanding the fearful character of the wound, being fed +liberally by Mr Young, she recovered. + +On the 16th of June the remaining members of the expedition started for +the upper cataracts. + +Cotton of superior quality was seen dropping off the bushes, with no one +to gather it. + +The huts in several villages were found entire, with mortars and stones +for pounding and grinding corn, empty corn safes and kitchen utensils, +water and beer-pots untouched, but the doors were shut, as if the +inhabitants had gone to search for roots or fruits and had never +returned; while in others, skeletons were seen of persons who died +apparently while endeavouring to reach something to allay the gnawings +of hunger. + +Several journeys had been made over the portage, when, on returning to +the ship on the 2nd of July, they received a despatch from Earl Russell, +directing the return home of the expedition. + +Considering the utter devastation caused by the slave-hunting, and the +secret support given by the Portuguese officials to the slave-traders, +notwithstanding the protestations of their government that they wished +to put an end to the trade, it was impossible not to agree in the wisdom +of this determination. + +Arrangements therefore were made to screw the "Lady Nyassa" together +again, as the "Pioneer" could not move till the floods in December. In +the mean time it was determined to make another trip to the lake in a +boat to be carried overland past the cataracts. + +The same scenes were witnessed as before. Wild animals had taken +possession of the ruins of a large village in which on their previous +visit the inhabitants had been living in peace and plenty. + +They had no idea, having before kept closer to the river, of the number +of villages, always apparently selected with a view to shade, existing +in that region, all of which were now deserted. + +They at length reached a region which had hitherto escaped, where the +people welcomed them with the greatest cordiality, and were willing to +spare the small amount of food they had remaining for themselves. But +even here news of war soon reached them, and they found that a tribe of +Zulus, the Mazitu, were ravaging the country, and that the inhabitants +were only safe within their stockades. They soon encountered men and +women carrying grain towards these fortifications, and soon they came +upon dead bodies, first one and then another, lying in postures assumed +in mortal agony such as no painter can produce. + +On their arrival at Chinsamba's stockade, they were told that the Mazitu +had been repulsed thence the day before, and the sad sight of the +numerous bodies of the slain showed the truth of the report. The +marauders had, however, carried off large numbers of women laden with +corn, and, on being repulsed, cut off the ears of a male prisoner and +sent him back, saying that they meant to return for the corn they had +left, in a month or two. + +Chinsamba urged them not to proceed to the north-west, where the Mazitu +had occupied the whole region, and they accordingly remained with him +till the 5th of September. + +After this they visited Chia Lakelet. On their way they met men and +women eagerly reaping the corn in haste, to convey it to the stockades, +while so much was found scattered along the paths by the Mazitu and the +fugitives that some women were winnowing it from the sand. Dead bodies +and burned villages showed that they were close upon the heels of the +invaders. Among the reeds on the banks of the lake was seen a +continuous village of temporary huts in which the people had taken +refuge from their invaders. + +On visiting the village of an Arab chief, Juma, at Kota Bay, on the 10th +of September, they found him engaged with his people in building a large +dhow, or Arab vessel, fifty feet long and twelve broad. They offered to +purchase the craft, but he refused to sell it for any amount. It was +very evident that she was to be engaged for carrying slaves across the +lake. + +They now regretted the attempt to carry an iron vessel overland, as a +wooden one might have been built at much less cost on the banks of the +lake, and in a shorter time than the transit of the "Lady Nyassa" would +have occupied. + +Another extensive and interesting journey was taken in the neighbourhood +of the lake, and, on their return along the shores, they found the reeds +still, occupied by the unhappy fugitives, who were already suffering +fearfully from famine. Numbers of newly-made graves showed that many +had already perished, and others had more the appearance of human +skeletons than living beings. + +Altogether in this expedition they travelled seven hundred and sixty +miles in a straight line, averaging about fifteen miles a day, and they +reached the ship on the 1st of November, where all were found in good +health and spirits. They were visited on board by an Ajawa chief named +Kapeni, who asserted that he and his people would gladly receive the +associates of Bishop Mackenzie as their teachers. It showed that he and +his people had not been offended at the check which the bishop had given +to their slaving, their consciences telling them that the course he had +pursued was right. + +About the middle of December news reached them of the arrival of the +successor of Bishop Mackenzie, but that gentleman, after spending a few +months on the top of a mountain as high as Ben Nevis, at the mouth of +the Shire, where there were few or no people to be taught, returned +home, while six of the boys who had been reared by Bishop Mackenzie had +been deserted and exposed to the risk of falling back into heathenism. +The poor boys, however, managed to reach the ship, expressing their +sorrow that they no longer had one to look after them, remarking that +Bishop Mackenzie had a loving heart, and had been more than a father to +them. + +On the 19th of January, 1864, the Shire suddenly rising, the "Pioneer" +was once more got underway; but, her rudder being injured, she was +delayed, and did not reach Morambala till the 2nd of February. Here +they received on board about thirty orphan boys and girls, and a few +helpless widows who had been attached to Bishop Mackenzie's mission, and +who could not be abandoned without bringing odium on the English name. +The difference between shipping slaves and receiving these on board +struck them greatly. The moment permission to embark was given, they +all rushed into the boat, nearly swamping her in their eagerness to be +safe on the "Pioneer's" deck. + +At the mouth of the Zambesi they found HM ships "Orestes" and "Ariel," +when the former took the "Pioneer" in tow, and the latter the "Lady +Nyassa," bound for Mozambique. + +After encountering a heavy storm, when the little vessels behaved +admirably, while the "Pioneer" was sent to the Cape, the "Lady Nyassa," +under charge of Dr Livingstone, proceeded by way of Zanzibar to Bombay, +which they safely reached, though at times they thought their epitaph +would be: "Left Zanzibar on the 30th of April, 1864, and never more +heard of." + + + +CHAPTER TWENTY THREE. + +TRAVELS OF SIR SAMUEL AND LADY BAKER. + +ARRIVAL IN EGYPT--CROSS THE NUBIAN DESERT--RESIDENCE AT BERBER--RESOLVES +TO LEARN ARABIC--JOURNEY TOWARDS ABYSSINIA COMMENCED--FIRST MEAL ON +HIPPO-FLESH.--A WHIRLWIND--THE RIVER SUDDENLY FILLS--CAUSE OF THE +OVERFLOW OF THE NILE--RAINY SEASON BEGINS--VISIT TO CAMP OF ABOU SINN-- +RESIDENCE AT SON--ENGAGE GERMANS--HIPPOPOTAMUS HUNTING--HAMRAN ELEPHANT +HUNTERS--MODE OF HUNTING--ABOU DO A HIPPOPOTAMUS HUNTER--EXCITING ATTACK +ON A HIPPOPOTAMUS--BAKER WITNESSES ATTACK ON AN ELEPHANT BY AGGAGEERS-- +RODUR'S COURAGE--THE TRAVELLERS REACH KHARTOUM. + +Sir Samuel, then Mr Baker, was already an experienced traveller and a +practised sportsman, when in March, 1861, having resolved to devote his +energies to the discovery of one of the sources of the Nile, he set +forth from England to proceed up the mysterious river from its mouth, +inwardly determined to accomplish the difficult task or to die in the +attempt. He had, however, shortly before married a young wife. She, +with a devoted love and heroism seldom surpassed, notwithstanding the +dangers and difficulties she knew she must encounter, entreated to +accompany her husband, in a way not to be denied. + +Leaving Cairo on the 15th of April, they sailed up the Nile to Korosko, +whence they crossed the Nubian Desert on camels, with the simoon in full +force and the heat intense to Berber. Here Mr Baker, finding his want +of Arabic a great drawback, resolved to devote a year to the study of +that language, and to spend the time in the comparatively known regions +to the north of Abyssinia, while he explored the various confluences of +the Blue Nile. + +They were kindly received at Berber by Halleem Effendi, the ex-governor, +who gave them permission to pitch their tents in his gardens close to +the Nile. It was a lovely spot, thickly planted with lofty date-groves +and shady citron and lemon-trees, in which countless birds were singing +and chirruping, and innumerable ring-doves cooing in the shady palms. +The once sandy spot, irrigated by numerous water-wheels, had been thus +transformed into a fruitful garden. + +Here they received visits from their host and the governor, as well as +from other officers, who expressed their astonishment when they +announced their intention of proceeding to the head of the Nile. + +"Do not go on such an absurd errand," exclaimed Halleem Effendi. +"Nobody knows anything about the Nile. We do not even know the source +of the Atbara. While you remain within the territory of the Pacha of +Egypt you will be safe; but the moment you cross the frontier you will +be in the hands of savages." + +Mr Baker, though receiving the advice _cum grano salis_, profited by +it. + +Their host sent them daily presents of fruit by a charmingly pretty +slave girl, whose numerous mistresses requested permission to pay the +travellers a visit. In the evening a bevy of ladies approached through +the dark groves of citron-trees, so gaily dressed in silks of the +brightest dyes of yellow, blue, and scarlet, that no bouquet of flowers +could have been more gaudy. They were attended by numerous slaves, the +head of whom requested Mr Baker to withdraw while the ladies paid his +wife a visit. + +Many of them she described as young and pretty. By distributing a +number of small presents among them, she completely won their +confidence. + +After a week spent at this pleasant spot, they commenced their journey +on the evening of the 10th of June, attended by a guard of Turkish +soldiers, who were to act in the double capacity of escort and servants. + +Their dragoman was called Mahomet, and the principal guide Achmet. The +former, though almost black, declared that his colour was of a light +brown. He spoke very bad English, was excessively conceited, and +irascible to a degree. Accustomed to the easy-going expeditions on the +Nile, he had _no_ taste for the rough sort of work his new master had +undertaken. + +The journey across the desert tract was performed on donkeys, the +luggage being carried on camels or dromedaries. + +In two days they reached the junction of the Atbara river with the Nile. +Here, crossing a broad surface of white sand, which at that season +formed the dry bed of the river, they encamped near a plantation of +water-melons, with which they refreshed themselves and their tired +donkeys. The river was here never less than four hundred yards in +width, with banks nearly thirty feet deep. Not only was it partially +dry, but so clear was the sand-bed that the reflection of the sun was +almost unbearable. + +They travelled along the banks of the river for some days, stopping by +the side of the pools which still remained. Many of these pools were +full of crocodiles and hippopotami. One of these river-horses had +lately killed the proprietor of a melon-garden, who had attempted to +drive the creature from his plantation. Mr Baker had the satisfaction +of killing one of the monsters in shallow water. It was quickly +surrounded by Arabs, who hauled it on shore, and, on receiving his +permission to take the meat, in an instant a hundred knives were at +work, the men fighting to obtain the most delicate morsels. He and his +wife breakfasted that morning on hippopotamus flesh, which was destined +to be their general food during their journey among the Abyssinian +tributaries of the Nile. + +Game abounded, and he shot gazelles and hippopotami sufficient to keep +the whole camp well supplied with meat. + +On the 23rd of June they were nearly suffocated by a whirlwind that +buried everything in the tents several inches in dust. + +The heat was intense; the night, however, was cool and pleasant. About +half-past eight, as Mr Baker lay asleep, he fancied that he heard a +rumbling like distant thunder. The low uninterrupted roll increasing in +volume, presently a confusion of voices arose from the Arabs' camp, his +men shouting as they rushed through the darkness: "The river! the +river!" + +Mahomet exclaimed that the river was coming down, and that the supposed +distant roar was the approach of water. Many of the people, who had +been sleeping on the clean sand of the river's bed, were quickly +awakened by the Arabs, who rushed down the steep bank to save the skulls +of two hippopotami which were exposed to dry. + +The sound of the torrent, as it rushed by amid the darkness, and the +men, dripping with wet, dragging their heavy burdens up the bank, told +that the great event had occurred. The river had arrived like a thief +in the night. + +The next morning, instead of the barren sheet of clear white sand with a +fringe of withered bush and trees upon its borders, cutting the yellow +expanse of desert, a magnificent stream, the noble Atbara river flowed +by, some five hundred yards in width, and from fifteen to twenty feet in +depth. Not a drop of rain, however, had fallen; but the current gave +the traveller a clue to one portion of the Nile mystery. The rains were +pouring down in Abyssinia--these were the sources of the Nile. + +The rainy season, however, at length began, during which it was +impossible to travel. + +The Arabs during that period migrate to the drier regions in the north. + +On their way they arrived in the neighbourhood of the camp of the great +Sheikh Achmet Abou Sinn, to whom Mr Baker had a letter of introduction. +Having sent it forward by Mahomet, in a short time the sheikh appeared, +attended by several of his principal people. He was mounted on a +beautiful snow-white _hygeen_, his appearance being remarkably dignified +and venerable. Although upwards of eighty years old, he was as erect as +a lance, and of herculean stature; a remarkably arched nose, eyes like +an eagle's, beneath large, shaggy, but perfectly white eyebrows, while a +snow-white beard of great thickness descended below the middle of his +breast. He wore a large white turban, and a white cashmere robe +reaching from the throat to the ankles. He was indeed the perfect +picture of a desert patriarch. He insisted on the travellers +accompanying him to his camp, and would hear of no excuses. Ordering +Mahomet to have their baggage repacked, he requested them to mount two +superb _hygeens_ with saddle-cloths of blue and purple sheep-skins, and +they set out with their venerable host, followed by his wild and +splendidly-mounted attendants. + +As they approached the camp they were suddenly met by a crowd of mounted +men, armed with swords and shields, some on horses, others on _hygeens_. +These were Abou Sinn's people, who had assembled to do honour to their +chief's guests. Having formed in lines parallel with the approach of +their guests, they galloped singly at full speed across the line of +march, flourishing their swords over their heads, and reining in their +horses so as to bring them on their haunches by the sudden halt. This +performance being concluded, they fell into line behind the party. + +Declining the sheikh's invitation to spend two or three months at his +camp, Mr and Mrs Baker travelled on to the village of Sofi, where they +proposed remaining during the rainy season. + +It was situated near the banks of the Atbara, on a plateau of about +twenty acres, bordered on either side by two deep ravines, while below +the steep cliff in front of the village flowed the river Atbara. + +Their tents were pitched on a level piece of ground just outside the +village, where the grass, closely nibbled by the goats, formed a natural +lawn. + +Here huts were built and some weeks were pleasantly spent. Mr Baker +found an abundance of sport, sometimes catching enormous fish, at others +shooting birds to supply his larder, but more frequently hunting +elephants, rhinoceros, giraffes, and other large game. + +He here found a German named Florian, a stone-mason by trade, who had +come out attached to the Austrian mission at Khartoum, but preferring a +freer life than that city afforded, had become a great hunter. Mr +Baker, thinking that he would prove useful, engaged him as a hunter, and +he afterwards took into his service Florian's black servant Richarn, who +became his faithful attendant. A former companion of Florian's, Johann +Schmidt, soon afterwards arrived, and was also engaged by Mr Baker to +act as his lieutenant in his proposed White Nile expedition. Poor +Florian, however, was killed by a lion, and Schmidt and Richarn alone +accompanied him. + +Mr Baker's skill as a sportsman was frequently called into play by the +natives, to drive off the elephants and hippopotami which infested their +plantations. One afternoon he was requested to shoot a savage old bull +hippopotamus which had given chase to several people. Accompanied by +Mrs Baker he rode to the spot, about two miles off, where the +hippopotamus lived in a deep and broad portion of the river. The old +hippopotamus was at home. + +"The river, about two hundred and fifty yards wide, had formed by an +acute bend a deep hole. In the centre of this was a sandbank just below +the surface. Upon this shallow bed the hippopotamus was reposing. On +perceiving the party he began to snort and behave himself in a most +absurd manner, by shaking his head and leaping half way out of the +water. Mr Baker had given Bacheet, one of his attendants, a pistol, +and had ordered him to follow on the opposite bank. He now directed him +to fire several shots at the hippopotamus, in order if possible to drive +the animal towards him. The hippo, a wicked, solitary, old bull, +returned the insult by charging towards Bacheet with a tremendous +snorting, which sent him scrambling up the steep bank in a panic. This +gave the brute confidence; and the sportsman, who had hitherto remained +concealed, called out according to Arabic custom: `_Hasinth! hasinth_!' +the Arabic for hippopotamus. The brute, thinking no doubt that he might +as well drive the intruder away, gave a loud snort, sank, and quickly +reappeared about a hundred yards from him. On this Mr Baker ordered +Bacheet to shoot to attract the animal's attention. As the hippopotamus +turned his head, Mr Baker took a steady shot, aiming behind the ear, +and immediately the saucy old hippo turned upon his back and rolled +about, lashing the still pool into waves, until at length he +disappeared." + +His intention of engaging a party of the Hamran Arabs, celebrated as +hunters, to accompany him in his explorations of the Abyssinian rivers +having become known, several of these men made their appearance at Son. +They are distinguished from the other tribes of Arabs by an extra length +of hair, worn parted down the centre and arranged in long curls. They +are armed with swords and shields, the former having long, straight, +two-edged blades, with a small cross for the handle, similar to the +long, straight, cross-handled blades of the crusaders. Their shields, +formed of rhinoceros, giraffe, or elephant-hide, are either round or +oval. Their swords, which they prize highly, are kept as sharp as +razors. The length of the blade is about three feet, and the handle six +inches long. It is secured to the wrist by a leathern strap, so that +the hunter cannot by any accident be disarmed. + +These men go in chase of all wild animals of the desert; some are noted +as expert hippopotamus slayers, but the most celebrated are the +Aggageers, or elephant hunters. The latter attack the huge animal +either on horseback, or on foot when they cannot afford to purchase +steeds. In the latter case, two men alone hunt together. They follow +the tracks of an elephant which they contrive to overtake about noon, +when the animal is either asleep or extremely listless and easy to +approach. Should the elephant be asleep, one of the hunters will creep +towards its head, and with a single blow sever the trunk stretched on +the ground, the result being its death within an hour from bleeding. +Should the animal be awake, they will creep up from behind, and give a +tremendous cut at the back sinew of the hind leg, immediately disabling +the monster. It is followed up by a second cut on the remaining leg, +when the creature becomes their easy prey. + +When hunting on horseback, generally four men form a party, and they +often follow the tracks of a herd from their drinking-place for upwards +of twenty miles. + +Mr Baker accompanied them on numerous hunting expeditions, and +witnessed the wonderful courage and dexterity they displayed. + +After spending three months at Son, he set out for the Settite River, he +and his wife crossing the Atbara River on a raft formed of his large +circular sponging bath supported by eight inflated skins secured to his +bedstead. + +A party of the Aggageers now joined him. Among them was Abou Do, a +celebrated old hippopotamus hunter, who, with his spear of trident shape +in hand, might have served as a representative of Neptune. The old Arab +was equally great at elephant hunting, and had on the previous day +exhibited his skill, having assisted to kill several elephants. He now +divested himself of all his clothing, and set out, taking his harpoon in +hand, in search of hippopotami. + +This weapon consisted of a steel blade about eleven inches long and +three-quarters of an inch in width, with a single barb. To it was +attached a strong rope twenty feet long, with a float as large as a +child's head at the extremity. Into the harpoon was fixed a piece of +bamboo ten feet long, around which the the rope was twisted, while the +buoy was carried on the hunter's left hand. + +After proceeding a couple of miles, a herd of hippopotami were seen in a +pool below a rapid surrounded by rocks. He, however, remarking that +they were too wide-awake to be attacked, continued his course down the +stream till a smaller pool was reached. Here the immense head of a +hippopotamus was seen, close to a perpendicular rock that formed a wall +to the river. The old hunter, motioning the travellers to remain quiet, +immediately plunged into the stream and crossed to the opposite bank, +whence, keeping himself under shelter, he made his way directly towards +the spot beneath which the hippopotamus was lying. "Stealthily he +approached, his long thin arm raised, with the harpoon ready to strike. +The hippopotamus, however, had vanished, but far from exhibiting +surprise, the veteran hunter remaining standing on the sharp ledge, +unchanged in attitude. No figure of bronze could be more rigid than +that of the old river king, as he thus stood, his left foot advanced, +his right-hand grasping the harpoon above his head, and his left the +loose coil of rope attached to the buoy." + +"Three minutes thus passed, when suddenly the right arm of the statue +descended like lightening, and the harpoon shot perpendicularly into the +pool with the speed of an arrow. In an instant an enormous pair of open +jaws appeared, followed by the ungainly head and form of a furious +hippopotamus, who, springing half out of the water, lashed the river +into foam as he charged straight up the violent rapids. With +extraordinary power he breasted the descending stream, gaining a footing +in the rapids where they were about five feet deep, thus making his way, +till, landing from the river, he started at full gallop along the +shingly bed, and disappeared in the thorny jungle. No one would have +supposed that so unwieldy an animal could have exhibited such speed, and +it was fortunate for old Neptune that he was secure on the high ledge of +rock, for had he been on the path of the infuriated beast, there would +have been an end of Abou Do." + +The old man rejoined his companions, when Mr Baker proposed going in +search of the animal. The hunter, however, explained that the +hippopotamus would certainly return after a short time to the water. In +a few minutes the animal emerged from the jungle and descended at full +trot into the pool where the other hippopotami had been seen, about half +a mile off. Upon reaching it, the party were immediately greeted by the +hippopotamus, who snorted and roared and quickly dived, and the float +was seen running along the surface, showing his course as the cork of a +trimmer does that of a pike when hooked. Several times the hippo +appeared, but invariably faced them, and, as Mr Baker could not obtain +a favourable shot, he sent the old hunter across the stream to attract +the animal's attention. The hippo, turning towards the hunter, afforded +Mr Baker a good chance, and he fired a steady shot behind the ear. The +crack of the ball, in the absence of any splash from the bullet, showed +him that the hippopotamus was hit, while the float remained stationary +upon the surface, marking the spot where the grand old bull lay dead +beneath. The hunter obtaining assistance from the camp, the +hippopotamus, as well as another which had been shot, were hauled on +shore. The old bull measured fourteen feet two inches, and the head was +three feet one inch from the front of the ear to the edge of the lip, in +a straight line. + +Though hippopotami are generally harmless, solitary old bulls are +sometimes extremely vicious, and frequently attack canoes without +provocation. + +Many of the elephant hunts in which Mr Baker engaged were exciting in +the highest degree, and fraught with no small amount of danger. + +Among the Aggageers was a hunter, Rodur Sherrif, who, though his arm had +been withered in consequence of an accident, was as daring as any of his +companions. + +The banks of the Royan had been reached, where, a camp having been +formed, Mr Baker and his companions set out in search of elephants. A +large bull elephant was discovered drinking. The country around was +partly woody, and the ground strewed with fragments of rocks, ill +adapted for riding. The elephant had made a desperate charge, +scattering the hunters in all directions, and very nearly overtaking Mr +Baker. He then retreated into a stronghold composed of rocks and uneven +ground, with a few small leafless trees growing in it. The scene must +be described in the traveller's own words. "Here the elephant stood +facing the party like a statue, not moving a muscle beyond the quick and +restless action of the eyes, which were watching on all sides. Two of +the Aggageers getting into its rear by a wide circuit, two others, one +of whom was the renowned Rodur Sherrif, mounted on a thoroughly-trained +bay mare, rode slowly towards the animal. Coolly the mare advanced +towards her wary antagonist until within about nine yards of its head. +The elephant never moved. Not a word was spoken. The perfect stillness +was at length broken by a snort from the mare, who gazed intently at the +elephant, as though watching for the moment of attack. Rodur coolly sat +with his eyes fixed upon those of the elephant. + +"With a shrill scream the enormous creature then suddenly dashed on him +like an avalanche. Round went the mare as though upon a pivot, away +over rocks and stones, flying like a gazelle, with the monkey-like form +of Rodur Sherrif leaning forward and looking over his left shoulder as +the elephant rushed after him. For a moment it appeared as if the mare +must be caught. Had she stumbled, all would have been lost, but she +gained in the race after a few quick bounding strides, and Rodur, still +looking behind him, kept his distance, so close, however, to the +creature, that its outstretched trunk was within a few feet of the +mare's tail. + +"The two Aggageers who had kept in the rear now dashed forward close to +the hind quarters of the furious elephant, who, maddened with the +excitement, heeded nothing but Rodur and his mare. When close to the +tail of the elephant, the sword of one of the Aggageers flashed from its +sheath as, grasping his trusty blade, he leaped nimbly to the ground, +while his companion caught the reins of his horse. Two or three bounds +on foot, with the sword clutched in both hands, and he was close behind +the elephant. A bright glance shone like lightning as the sun struck on +the descending steel. This was followed by a dull crack, the sword +cutting through skin and sinew, and sinking deep into the bone about +twelve inches above the foot. At the next stride the elephant halted +dead short in the midst of his tremendous charge. The Aggageer who had +struck the blow vaulted into the saddle with his naked sword in hand. +At the same moment Rodur turned sharp round and, again facing the +elephant, stooped quickly from the saddle to pick up from the ground a +handful of dirt, which he threw into the face of the vicious animal, +that once more attempted to rush upon him. It was impossible: the foot +was dislocated and turned up in front like an old shoe. In an instant +the other Aggageer leaped to the ground, and again the sharp sword +slashed the remaining leg." + +Nothing could be more perfect than the way in which these daring hunters +attack their prey. "It is difficult to decide which to admire most-- +whether the coolness and courage of him who led the elephant, or the +extraordinary skill and activity of the Aggageer who dealt the fatal +blow." + +Thus, hunting and exploring, Mr Baker, accompanied by his heroic wife, +visited the numerous river-beds which carry the rains of the mountainous +regions of Abyssinia into the Blue Nile, and are the cause of the +periodical overflowing of the mighty stream, while its ordinary current +is fed from other far-distant sources, towards one of which the +traveller now prepared to direct his steps. + +Speke and Grant were at this time making their way from Zanzibar, across +untrodden ground, towards Gondokoro. + +An expedition under Petherick, the ivory-trader, sent to assist them, +had met with misfortune and been greatly delayed, and Mr Baker +therefore hoped to reach the equator, and perhaps to meet the Zanzibar +explorers somewhere about the sources of the Nile. + +Proceeding along the banks of the Blue Nile, Mr and Mrs Baker reached +Khartoum on the 11th of June, 1862. A beautiful view met their sight as +they gazed across the waters of the Nile. "The morning sun was shining +on this capital of the Soudan provinces; the dark green foliage of the +groves of date-trees contrasted exquisitely with the numerous buildings +of many colours which lined the margin of the river, while long lines of +vessels with tapering spars gave light to the scene. But alas! this +beauty soon vanished, both the sight and smell being outraged grievously +as they entered the filthy and miserable town." + + + +CHAPTER TWENTY FOUR. + +TRAVELS OF SIR SAMUEL AND LADY BAKER, CONTINUED. + +PREPARATIONS FOR JOURNEY TO THE SOUTH--DIFFICULTIES--THE SHILLOOKS--THE +NUEHR--INFORMATION ABOUT THE SLAVE TRADE--THE KYTCH--THE SACRED +BULLOCK--ARRIVE AT GONDOKORO--ATTEMPTS TO SHOOT BAKER--HIS ESCORT +MUTINY--HE MEETS SPEKE AND GRANT--TREACHERY AMONG HIS SERVANTS-- +ENCOUNTER WITH SLAVE-TRADERS--WINS OVER IBRAHIM, AND ARRIVES AT +TARRANGOLLE--THE LATOOKA VICTORY--MISBEHAVIOUR OF THE TURKS, AND +THREATENED ATTACK BY THE NATIVES--A FUNERAL DANCE--RETURNS TO OBBO-- +FEVER--SETS OUT FOR KARUMA--REACHES KARUMA FALLS--KAMRASI--PROCEEDS TO +THE LAKE--A STRANGE RECEPTION--ILLNESS OF MRS. BAKER--REACH THE VILLAGE +OF PARKANI--ARRIVE AT THE LAKE WHICH BAKER CALLED ALBERT NYANZA--SURVEYS +IT--REACHES MAGIMGO--PROCEEDS TO THE MURCHISON FALLS--RETURN TO +MAGIMGO--DESERTED BY HIS GUIDE AND CARRIERS--STARVATION--THE GUIDE +REAPPEARS, AND THEY ARRIVE AT KAMRASI'S CAMP--AN INVASION BY FOWOOKAS-- +MR. BAKER PREVENTS AN ATTACK--HE AT LAST SETS OFF WITH TURKISH TRADERS, +AND ARRIVES AT SHOOA--A MARCH THROUGH THE BARI--REACH GONDOKORO--VOYAGE +DOWN THE NILE--WELCOMED AT KHARTOUM--A DUST-STORM--CONTINUING THEIR +VOYAGE, REACH BERBER, AND AT LENGTH ARRIVE IN ENGLAND--RETURNS TO +EGYPT--ORGANISES AN EXPEDITION TO CONVEY STEAMERS UP THE NILE FOR LAKE +NYANZA, TO OPPOSE THE SLAVE TRADE. + +At Khartoum Mr and Mrs Baker spent some months to recruit, occupying +the house of the British Consul, who was then absent. + +On the 17th of December their preparations for a fresh start were +completed. Three vessels had been engaged, and were laden with large +quantities of stores, with four hundred bushels of corn, and twenty-nine +transport animals, including camels, horses, and donkeys. Their party +consisted of ninety-six souls, including Johann Schmidt and the faithful +black Richarn, and forty-nine well-armed men. + +Khartoum was a nest of slave-traders, who looked with jealous eyes upon +every stranger venturing within the precincts of their holy land, and, +as Mr Baker observes: "sacred to slavery and to every abomination and +villainy that man can commit." + +The Turkish officers pretended to discountenance slavery; at the same +time every house was full of slaves, and Egyptian officers received a +portion of their pay in slaves. The authorities, therefore, looked upon +the proposed exploration of the White Nile by a European traveller as +likely to interfere with their perquisites, and threw every obstacle in +his way. + +As the government of Soudan refused to supply him with properly-trained +soldiers, the only men he could get for an escort were the miserable +cut-throats of Khartoum, who had been accustomed all their lives to +murder and pillage in the White Nile trade; yet, such as they were, he +was compelled to put up with them, though he would undoubtedly have done +better had he gone without such an escort. + +The voyage alone to Gondokoro, the navigable limit of the Nile, was +likely to occupy about fifty days, so that a large supply of provisions +was necessary. + +Difficulties were met with from the very beginning. The vessel's yards +were continually being carried away. + +Poor Johann, who, though he had long been suffering, insisted on +accompanying his employer, died a short time after the commencement of +the voyage. + +On the 2nd of January they were sailing past the country inhabited by +the Shillooks, the largest and most powerful black tribe on the banks of +the White Nile. They are very wealthy, and possess immense herds of +cattle; are also agriculturists, fishermen, and warriors. Their huts +are regularly built, looking at a distance like rows of button +mushrooms. They embark boldly on the river in their raft-like canoes, +formed of the excessively light ambatch-wood. The tree is of no great +thickness, and tapers gradually to a point. It is thus easily cut down, +and, several trunks being lashed together, a canoe is quickly formed. A +war party on several occasions, embarking in a fleet of these rafts, +have descended the river, and made raids on other tribes, carrying off +women and children as captives, and large herds of cattle. + +Nothing can be more melancholy and uninteresting than the general +appearance of the banks of the river. At times vast marshes alone could +be seen, at others an immense expanse of sandy desert, with huge +ant-hills ten feet high rising above them. The inhabitants were naked +savages. While stopping at a village on the right bank, they received a +visit from the chief of the Nuehr tribe and a number of his followers. +They were most unearthly-looking fellows; even the young women were +destitute of clothing, though the married had a fringe made of grass +round their loins. The men wore heavy coils of beads about their necks, +two heavy bracelets of ivory on the upper portions of their arms, copper +rings upon the wrist, and a horrible kind of bracelet of massive iron, +armed with spikes about an inch in length, like leopards' claws. The +women had their upper lips perforated and wore ornaments on their heads, +about four inches long, of beads, upon iron wires projecting like the +horn of a rhinoceros. + +The chief exhibited his wife's arms and back, covered with jagged scars, +to show the use of the spiked iron bracelet. + +These were among the first blacks met with. They are almost too low in +the scale of humanity to be fit for slaves. Mr Baker gained much +information about the slave trade of this part of the world. Most of +those engaged in this nefarious traffic are Syrians, Copts, Turks, +Circassians, and some few Europeans. When a speculator has determined +to enter into the trade, he engages a hundred and fifty to two hundred +ruffians, and purchases guns and ammunition, and a few pounds of glass +beads. With these he sails up to Gondokoro and, disembarking, marches +into the interior till he arrives at the village of some negro chief, +with whom he establishes an intimacy. The chief has probably an enemy +to attack, and his new allies gladly assist him. Led by him, they +approach some unsuspecting village about half an hour before daybreak. +Surrounding it while the occupants are still sleeping, they fire the +grass-huts in all directions, and pour volleys of musketry through the +flaming thatch. Panic-struck, the unfortunate victims rush from their +burning dwellings. The men are shot down, the women and children +kidnapped and secured, while the herds of cattle are driven off. The +women and children are then fastened together, the former secured by an +instrument, called a _sheba_, made of a forked pole. The neck of the +prisoner fits into the fork, secured by a cross-piece also behind, while +the wrists, brought together in advance of the body, are tied to the +pole. The children are then fastened by their necks with the rope +attached to the women, and thus form a living chain, in which order they +are marched to the head-quarters with the captured herds. Of course, +all the ivory found in the place is carried off. The cattle are then +exchanged with the negro chief for any tusks he may possess. + +In many instances a quarrel is soon afterwards picked with him, and his +village is treated in the same way as that of his foes. Should any +slave attempt to escape, she is punished either by brutal flogging, or +hanged as a warning to others. The slaves are then carried down the +river, and landed a few days' journey south of Khartoum, whence they are +marched across the country, some to ports on the Red Sea, there to be +shipped for Arabia and Persia, while others are sent to Cairo. In fact, +they are disseminated throughout the slave dealing East. + +Sailing on day after day, with marshes and dead flats alone in sight, +mosquitos preventing rest even in the day, they at length arrived at the +station of a White Nile trader, where large herds of cattle were seen on +the banks. + +They were here visited by the chief of the Kytch tribe and his daughter, +a girl of about sixteen, better looking than most of her race. The +father wore a leopard-skin across his shoulder, and a skull-cap of white +beads, with a crest of white ostrich feathers. But this mantle was the +only garment he had on. His daughter's clothing consisted only of a +piece of dressed hide hanging over one shoulder, more for ornament than +use, as the rest of her body was entirely destitute of covering. The +men, though tall, were wretchedly thin, and the children mere skeletons. + +While the travellers remained here, they were beset by starving crowds, +bringing small gourd shells to receive the expected corn. The natives, +indeed, seem to trust entirely to the productions of nature for their +subsistence, and are the most pitiable set of savages that can be +imagined, their long thin legs and arms giving them a peculiar gnat-like +appearance. They devour both the skin and bones of dead animals. The +bones are pounded between stones, and, when reduced to powder, boiled to +form a kind of porridge. + +It is remarkable that in every herd they have a sacred bull, who is +supposed to have an influence over the prosperity of the rest. His +horns are ornamented with tufts of feathers, and frequently with small +bells, and he invariably leads the great herd to pasture. + +A short visit was paid to the Austrian mission stationed at Saint Croix, +which has proved a perfect failure--indeed, that very morning it was +sold to an Egyptian for 30 pounds. + +It was here the unfortunate Baron Harnier, a Prussian nobleman, was +killed by a buffalo which he had attacked in the hopes of saving the +life of a native whom the buffalo had struck down. + +The voyage terminated at Gondokoro on the 2nd of February. + +The country is a great improvement to the interminable marshes at the +lower part of the river, being raised about twenty feet above the water, +while distant mountains relieve the eye, and evergreen trees, scattered +in all directions, shading the native villages, form an inviting +landscape. A few miserable grass-huts alone, however, form the town, if +it deserves that name. + +A large number of men belonging to the various traders were assembled +here, who looked upon the travellers with anything but friendly eyes. + +As Mr Baker heard that a party were expected at Gondokoro from the +interior with ivory in a few days, he determined to await their arrival, +in hopes that their porters would be ready to carry his baggage. + +In the mean time he rode about the neighbourhood, studying the place and +people. + +"The native dwellings are the perfection of cleanliness. The domicile +of each family is surrounded by a hedge of euphorbia, and the interior +of the enclosure generally consists of a yard neatly plastered with a +cement of ashes, cow-dung, and sand. Upon this cleanly-swept surface +are one or more huts, surrounded by granaries of neat wicker-work, +thatched, and resting upon raised platforms. The huts have projecting +roofs, in order to afford a shade, and the entrance is usually about two +feet high. + +"The natives are of the Bari tribe. The men are well grown, and their +features are good, the woolly hair alone denoting their negro blood. + +"They use poisoned arrows, but, as their bows are inferior and they are +bad marksmen, they do not commit much mischief with them." + +Gondokoro was a perfect hell--a mere colony of cut-throats. The +Egyptians might easily have sent a few officers and two or three hundred +men from Khartoum to form a military government, and thus impede the +slave trade; but a bribe from the traders to the authorities was +sufficient to ensure an uninterrupted asylum for any amount of villainy. +The camps were full of slaves, and the Bari natives assured Mr Baker +that there was a large depot of slaves in the interior, belonging to the +traders, that would be marched to Gondokoro for shipment a few hours +after his departure. He was looked upon as a stumbling-block to the +trade. Several attempts were made to shoot him, and a boy was killed by +a shot from the shore, on board his vessel. His men were immediately +tampered with by the traders, and signs of discontent soon appeared +among them. They declared that they had not sufficient meat, and that +they must be allowed to make a razzia upon the cattle of the natives to +procure oxen. This demand being refused, they became more insolent, and +accordingly Mr Baker ordered the ringleader, an Arab, to be seized and +to receive twenty-five lashes. Upon his _vakeel_ approaching to capture +the fellow, most of the men laid down their guns and, seizing sticks, +rushed to his rescue. Mr Baker, on this, sprang forward, sent their +leader by a blow of his fist into their midst, and then, seizing him by +the throat, called to Saati for a rope to bind him. The men, still +intent on their object, surrounded Mr Baker, when Mrs Baker, landing +from the vessel, made her way to the spot. Her sudden appearance caused +the mutineers to hesitate, when Mr Baker shouted to the drummer boy to +beat the drum, and then ordered the men to fall in. Two-thirds obeyed +him, and formed in line, while the remainder retreated with their +ringleader. At this critical moment Mrs Baker implored her husband to +forgive the mutineer, if he would kiss his hand and beg his pardon. +This compromise completely won the men, who now called upon their +ringleader to apologise, and all would be right. This he did, and Mr +Baker made them rather a bitter speech and dismissed them. + +This, unhappily, was only the first exhibition of their mutinous +disposition, which nearly ruined the expedition, and might have led to +the destruction of the travellers. + +A few days afterwards guns were heard in the distance, and news arrived +that two white men had arrived from "the sea"! They proved to be Grant +and Speke, who had just come from the Victoria Nyanza. Both looked +travel-worn. Speke, who had walked the whole distance from Zanzibar, +was excessively lean, but in reality in good tough condition. Grant's +garments were well-nigh worn-out, but both of them had that fire in the +eye which showed the spirit that had led them through many dangers. + +They had heard of another lake to the westward of the the Nyanza, known +as the Luta Nzige, which Speke felt convinced was a second source of the +Nile. + +Accordingly, he and Grant having generously furnished him with as +perfect a map as they could produce, Baker determined to explore the +lake, while his friends, embarking in his boats, sailed down the Nile on +their voyage homeward. His men, notwithstanding the lesson they had +received, still exhibited a determined mutinous disposition, and in +every way neglected their duties. Happily for him, he had among his +attendants a little black boy, Saati, who, having been brought as a +slave from the interior, had been for a time in the Austrian mission, +from which, with many other slaves, he was turned out. Wandering about +the streets of Khartoum, he heard of Mr and Mrs Baker, and, making his +way to their house, threw himself at the lady's feet, and implored to be +allowed to follow them. Hearing at the mission that he was superior to +his juvenile companions, they accepted his services, and, being +thoroughly washed, and attired in trousers, blouse, and belt, he +appeared a different creature. From that time he considered himself as +belonging entirely to Mrs Baker, and to serve her was his greatest +pride. She in return endeavoured to instruct him, and gave him +anecdotes from the Bible, combined with the first principles of +Christianity. + +Through the means of young Saati, Mr Baker heard of a plot among the +Khartoum escort, to desert him with their arms and ammunition, and to +fire at him should he attempt to disarm them. The locks of their guns +had, by his orders, been covered with pieces of mackintosh. Directing +Mrs Baker to stand behind him, he placed outside his tent, on his +travelling bedstead, five double-barrelled guns loaded with buck-shot, a +revolver, and a naked sabre. A sixth rifle he kept in his own hands, +while Richarn and Saati stood behind him with double-barrelled guns. He +then ordered the drum to beat, and all the men to form in line of +marching order, while he requested Mrs Baker to point out any man who +should attempt to uncover his lock when he gave the order to lay down +their arms. In the event of the attempt being made, he intended to +shoot the man immediately. At the sound of the drum only fifteen +assembled. He then ordered them to lay down their arms. This, with +insolent looks of defiance, they refused to do. + +"Down with your guns this moment!" he shouted. + +At the sharp click of the locks, as he quickly capped the rifle in his +hand, the cowardly mutineers widened their line and wavered; some +retreated a few paces, others sat down and laid their guns on the +ground, while the remainder slowly dispersed, and sat in twos or singly +under the various trees about eighty paces distant. On the _vakeel_ and +Richarn advancing, they capitulated, agreeing to give up their arms and +ammunition on receiving a written discharge. They were immediately +disarmed. The discharge was made out, when upon each paper Mr Baker +wrote the word "mutineer" above his signature. Finally, nearly the +whole of the escort deserted, taking service with the traders. + +Not to be defeated, Baker obtained a Bari boy as interpreter, determined +at all hazards to start from Gondokoro. + +A party of traders under Koorshid, who had lately arrived from Latooka +and were about to return, not only refused to allow the travellers to +accompany them, but declared their intention of forcibly driving them +back, should they attempt to advance by their route. + +This served as an excuse to the remainder of his escort for not +proceeding. + +Saati discovered another plot, his men having been won over by Mahomet +Her, the _vakeel_ of Chenooda, another trader. + +Notwithstanding the danger he was running, Mr Baker compelled his men +to march, and by a clever manoeuvre got ahead of the party led by +Ibrahim, Koorshid's _vakeel_. + +Finally, by wonderful tact, assisted by Mrs Baker, he won over Ibrahim, +and induced him to render him all the assistance in his power. + +Aided by his new friend, he arrived at Tarrangolle, one of the principal +places in the Latooka country, a hundred miles from Gondokoro, which, +though out of his direct route, would, he hoped, enable him with greater +ease finally to reach Unyoro, the territory of Kamrasi. + +In the mean time, however, several of his men had deserted and joined +Mahomet Her. He had warned them that they would repent of their folly. +His warnings were curiously fulfilled. + +News soon arrived that Mahomet Her, with a party of a hundred and ten +armed men, in addition to three hundred natives, had made a razzia upon +a certain village among the mountains for slaves and cattle. Having +succeeded in the village and capturing a number of slaves, as they were +re-ascending the mountain to obtain a herd of cattle they had heard of, +they were attacked by a large body of Latookas, lying in ambush among +the rocks on the mountain side. + +In vain the Turks fought; every bullet aimed at a Latooka struck a rock, +while rocks, stones, and lances were hurled at them from all sides and +from above. Compelled to retreat, they were seized with a panic, and +took to flight. + +Hemmed in by their foes, who showered lances and stones on their heads, +they fled down the rocky and perpendicular ravines. Mistaking their +road, they came to a precipice from which there was no retreat. + +The screaming and yelling savages closed round them. All was useless; +not an enemy could they shoot, while the savages thrust them forward +with wild yells to the very verge of a precipice five hundred feet high. +Over it they were driven, hurled to destruction by the mass of Latookas +pressing onward. A few fought to the last; but all were at length +forced over the edge of the cliff, and met the just reward of their +atrocities. No quarter had been given, and upwards of two hundred of +the natives who had joined the slave-hunters in the attack, had fallen +with them. + +Mahomet Her had not accompanied his party, and escaped, though utterly +ruined. + +The result of this catastrophe was highly beneficial to Mr Baker. + +"Where are the men who deserted me?" he asked of those who still +remained with him. + +Without speaking, they brought two of his guns covered with clotted +blood mixed with sand. Their owners' names were known to him by the +marks on the stocks. He mentioned them. + +"Are they all dead?" he asked. + +"All dead," the men replied. + +"Food for the vultures," he observed. "Better for them had they +remained with me and done their duty." + +He had before told his men that the vultures would pick the bones of the +deserters. + +From that moment an extraordinary change took place in the manner both +of his _own_ people and those of Ibrahim towards him. Unhappily, +however, the Latookas exhibited a change for the worse. The Turks, as +usual, insulted their women, and treated the natives with the greatest +brutality; and had he not exercised much caution and vigilance, both his +own party and Ibrahim's would in all probability have been cut off. +Ibrahim had been compelled to go back to Gondokoro for ammunition, and +Mr Baker waited at Tarrangolle for his return. + +On one occasion, in consequence of the misbehaviour of the Turks, the +whole of the natives deserted the town, and vast numbers collected +outside, threatening to attack it and destroy their guests. Mr Baker, +gaining information of their intention, took command of the Turks, and +with his own men showed so bold a front that the natives saw clearly +that they would be the sufferers should they attempt to carry their +purpose into execution. + +Their chief, Comonoro, came into the town, and seeing the preparations +made for its defence, agreed to persuade his people to act in a +peaceable manner. The next morning they dispersed, and the inhabitants +returned to the town. + +The Turks, after their alarm, behaved better, though they threatened, +when Ibrahim arrived with reinforcements and ammunition, that they would +have their revenge. + +Mr Baker after this moved his camp to a secure position some distance +from the town, near a stream of water. Here he formed a garden, and +lived in a far more independent way than before. + +The debased state of morality prevailing among the natives was exhibited +in a variety of ways. One of their chiefs, Adda by name, came to him +one day and requested him to assist in attacking a village, for the +purpose of procuring some iron hoes which he wanted. Mr Baker asked +whether it was in an enemy's country. "Oh, no!" was the reply; "it is +close here, but the people are rather rebellious, and it will do them +good to kill a few. If you are afraid, I will ask the Turks to do it." + +A funeral dance a short time after this took place in honour of those +who had been killed in the late fight. The dancers were grotesquely got +up, and are amusingly described by Mr Baker. "Each man had about a +dozen huge ostrich feathers in his helmet, a leopard or monkey-skin hung +from his shoulders, while a large iron bell was strapped to his loins +like a woman's bustle. This he rang during the dance, by jerking the +hinder part of his body in the most absurd manner. All the time a +hubbub was kept up by the shouting of the crowd, the blowing of horns, +and the beating of seven _nogaras_, or drums, all of different notes, +while each dancer also blew an antelope's horn suspended round his neck, +the sound partaking of the braying of a donkey and the screeching of an +owl. Meantime crowds of men rushed round and round, brandishing their +lances and iron-headed maces, following a leader, who headed them, +dancing backwards. The women outside danced at a slower pace, screaming +a wild and inharmonious chant, while beyond them a string of young girls +and small children beat time with their feet, and jingled numerous iron +rings which adorned their ankles. One woman attended upon the men, +running through the crowd with a gourd full of wood-ashes, handfuls of +which she showered over their heads, powdering them like millers. The +leader among the women was immensely fat; notwithstanding this she kept +up the pace to the last, quite unconscious of her general appearance." + +Notwithstanding the dangers of his position, Mr Baker frequently went +out shooting, and, among other animals, he killed an enormous elephant, +but the natives carried off the tusks and flesh. He was able, however, +with his gun, to supply his camp with food, which was fortunate, as the +natives would not sell him any of their cattle. + +Soon after Ibrahim's return, the Turks, at the request of Comonoro, +attacked the town of Kayala, but were driven back by the natives, whose +cattle, however, they carried off. + +It became dangerous to remain longer in the country, in consequence of +the abominable conduct of the Turks, which so irritated the natives that +an attack from them was daily expected. + +They were therefore compelled to return to Obbo, the chief of which, old +Katchiba, had before received them in a friendly manner. + +Here, in consequence of their exposure to wet, Mr and Mrs Baker were +attacked with fever. By this time all their baggage animals as well as +their horses had died. Mr Baker purchased from the Turks some good +riding oxen for himself and his wife, and, having placed his goods under +the charge of old Katchiba and two of his own men, he set out on the 8th +of January, 1864, with a small number of attendants, to proceed to +Karuma, the northern end of Kamrasi's territory, which Speke and Grant +had visited. + +The Shooa country, through which he passed, is very beautiful, +consisting of mountains covered with fine forest trees, and +picturesquely dotted over with villages. Several portions presented the +appearance of a park watered by numerous rivulets and ornamented with +fine timber, while it was interspersed with high rocks of granite, which +at a distance looked like ruined castles. + +Here they found an abundance of food: fowls, butter, and goats were +brought for sale. + +They had obtained the services of a slave woman called Bacheeta, +belonging to Unyoro, and who, having learned Arabic, was likely to prove +useful as an interpreter and guide. She, however, had no desire to +return to her own country, and endeavoured to mislead them, by taking +them to the country of Rionga, an enemy of Kamrasi. Fortunately Mr +Baker detected her treachery, and he and his Turkish allies reached the +Karuma Falls, close to the village of Atada. A number of Kamrasi's +people soon crossed the river to within parleying distance, when +Bacheeta, as directed, explained that Speke's brother had arrived to pay +Kamrasi a visit, and had brought him valuable presents. Kamrasi's +people, however, showed considerable suspicion on seeing so many people, +till Baker appeared dressed in a suit similar to that worn by Speke, +when they at once exhibited their welcome, by dancing and gesticulating +with their lances and shields in the most extravagant manner. The +party, however, were not allowed to cross till permission was obtained +from Kamrasi. That very cautious and cowardly monarch sent his brother, +who pretended to be Kamrasi himself, and for some time Baker was +deceived, fully believing that he was negotiating with the king. +Notwithstanding his regal pretensions, he very nearly got knocked down, +on proposing that he and his guest should exchange wives, and even +Bacheeta, understanding the insult which had been offered, fiercely +abused the supposed king. + +His Obbo porters had before this deserted him, and he was now dependent +on Kamrasi for others to supply their places. + +The king, however, ultimately became more friendly, and gave orders to +his people to assist the stranger, granting him also permission to +proceed westward to the lake he was so anxious to visit. + +A few women having been supplied to carry his luggage, he and his wife, +with their small party of attendants, at length set out. + +On approaching a considerable village, about six hundred +strangely-dressed men rushed out with lances and shields, screaming and +yelling as if about to attack them. His men cried out: "Fire. There is +a fight! there is a fight!" + +He felt assured that it was a mere parade. The warriors were dressed +either in leopard or white monkey-skins, with cows' tails strapped on +behind, and two antelope horns fixed on their heads, while their chins +were ornamented with false beards made of the bushy ends of cows' tails. + +These demon-like savages came round them, gesticulating and yelling, +pretending to attack them with spears and shields, and then engaged in +sham fights with each other. + +Mr Baker, however, soon got rid of his satanic escort. Poor Mrs Baker +was naturally alarmed, fearing that it was the intention of the king to +waylay them and perhaps carry her off. + +Soon after this, while crossing the Kafue river, the heat being +excessive, what was Mr Baker's horror to see his wife sink from her ox +as though shot dead. He, with his attendants, carried her through the +yielding vegetation, up to their waists in water, above which they could +just keep her head, till they reached the banks. He then laid her under +a tree, and now discovered that she had received a _coup de soleil_. As +there was nothing to eat on the spot, it was absolutely necessary to +move on. A litter was procured, on which Mrs Baker was carried, her +husband mechanically following by its side. For seven days continuously +he thus proceeded on his journey. Her eyes at length opened, but, to +his infinite grief, he found that she was attacked by a brain fever. + +One evening they reached a village. She was in violent convulsions. He +believed all was over, and, while he sank down insensible by her side, +his men went out to seek for a spot to dig her grave. On awakening, all +hope having abandoned him, as he gazed at her countenance her chest +gently heaved; she was asleep. When at a sudden noise she opened her +eyes, they were calm and clear: she was saved. + +Having rested for a couple of days, they continued their course, Mrs +Baker being carried on her litter. At length they reached the village +of Parkani. To his joy, as he gazed at some lofty mountains, he was +told that they formed the western side of the Luta Nzige, and that the +lake was actually within a march of the village. Their guide announced +that if they started early in the morning, they might wash in the lake +by noon. That night Baker hardly slept. + +The following morning, the 14th of March, starting before sunrise, on +ox-back, he and his wife, with their attendants, following his guide, in +a few hours reached a hill from the summit of which "he beheld beneath +him a grand expanse of water, a boundless sea horizon on the south and +south-west, glittering in the noonday sun, while on the west, at fifty +or sixty miles distant, blue mountains rose from the bosom of the lake +to a height of about seven thousand feet above its level." + +Hence they descended on foot, supported by stout bamboos, for two hours, +to the white pebbly beach on which the waves of the lake were rolling. + +Baker, in the enthusiasm of the moment, rushed into the lake, and, +thirsty with heat and fatigue, with a heart full of gratitude, drank +deeply from what he supposed to be one of the sources of the Nile, not +dreaming of the wonderful discoveries Livingstone was making at that +very time many degrees to the southward. He now bestowed upon this lake +the name of the Albert Nyanza. + +The dwellers on the borders of the lake are expert fishermen, and in one +of their villages, named Vakovia, the travellers now established +themselves. + +His followers, two of whom had seen the sea at Alexandria, and who +believed that they should never reach the lake, were astonished at its +appearance, unhesitatingly declaring that though it was not salt, it +must be the sea. + +Salt, however, is the chief product of the country, numerous salt-pits +existing in the neighbourhood, and in its manufacture the inhabitants +are chiefly employed. + +Vakovia is a miserable place, and, in consequence of its damp and hot +position, the whole party suffered from fever. + +Here they were detained eight days waiting for canoes, which Kamrasi had +ordered his people to supply. At length several were brought, but they +were merely hollowed-out trunks of trees, the largest being thirty-two +feet long. Baker selected another, twenty-six feet long, but wider and +deeper, for himself and his wife and their personal attendants, while +the luggage and the remainder of the people embarked in the former. He +raised the sides of the canoe, and fitted up a cabin for his wife, which +was both rain and sun-proof. + +Having purchased some provisions, he started on a voyage to survey the +lake. + +Vakovia is about a third of the way from the northern end of the lake. +His time would not allow him to proceed further south. He directed his +course northward, towards the part out of which the Nile was supposed to +flow. + +The difficulties of the journey were not yet over. The first day's +voyage was delightful, the lake calm, the scenery lovely. At times the +mountains on the west coast were not discernible, and the lake appeared +of indefinite width. Sometimes they passed directly under precipitous +cliffs of fifteen hundred feet in height, rising abruptly out of the +water, while from the deep clefts in the rocks evergreens of every tint +appeared, and wherever a rivulet burst forth it was shaded by the +graceful and feathery wild date. Numbers of hippopotami were sporting +in the water, and crocodiles were numerous on every sandy beach. + +Next night, however, the boatmen deserted, but, not to be defeated, +Baker induced his own people to take to the paddles. He fitted a paddle +to his own boat, to act as a rudder, but the men in the larger boat +neglected to do as he had directed them. + +A tremendous storm of rain came down while he was at work. His own +canoe, however, being ready, he started. He was about to cross from one +headland to another, when he saw the larger canoe spinning round and +round, the crew having no notion of guiding her. Fortunately it was +calm, and, on reaching the shore, he induced several natives to serve as +his crew, while others went off in their own boats to assist the large +canoe. + +He now commenced crossing a deep bay, fully four miles wide. He had +gained the centre when a tremendous storm came on, and enormous waves +rolled in over the lake. The canoe laboured heavily and occasionally +shipped water, which was quickly bailed out. Had this not been done, +the canoe would inevitably have been swamped. Down came the rain in +torrents, while the wind swept over the surface with terrific force, +nothing being discernible except the high cliffs looming in the +distance. The boatmen paddled energetically, and at last a beach was +seen ahead. A wave struck the canoe, washing over her. Just then the +men jumped out, and, though they were rolled over, they succeeded in +hauling the boat up the beach. + +The shore of the lake, as they paddled along it, was thinly inhabited, +and the people very inhospitable, till they reached the town of +Eppigoya. Even here the inhabitants refused to sell any of their goats, +though they willingly parted with fowls at a small price. + +At each village the voyagers changed their boatmen, none being willing +to go beyond the village next them. This was provoking, as delays +constantly occurred. + +At length they reached Magimgo, situated inside an immense bed of reeds, +at the top of a hill, above the mouth of a large river. Passing up a +channel amidst a perfect wilderness of vegetation, they reached the +shore below the town. Here they were met by their guide, who had +brought their riding oxen from Vakovia, and reported them all well. + +The chief of Magimgo and a large number of natives were also on the +shore waiting for them, and brought them down a plentiful supply of +goats, fowls, eggs, and fresh butter. + +Proceeding on foot to the height on which Magimgo stands, they thence +enjoyed a magnificent view, not only over the lake, but to the north, +towards the point where its waters flow into the Nile. + +Baker's great desire was to descend the Nile in canoes, from its exit +from the lake to the cataracts in the Madi country, and thence to march +direct, with only guns and ammunition, to Gondokoro. This plan he found +impossible to carry out. + +Before their return to the canoes, Mr Baker himself was laid prostrate +with fever, and most of his men were also suffering. + +They had heard, however, of a magnificent waterfall up the river. They +accordingly proceeded up it, and, as they got about eighteen miles above +Magimgo, a slight current was perceived. The river gradually narrowed +to about a hundred and eighty yards, and now, when the paddles ceased +working, the roar of water could be distinctly heard. Continuing on, +the noise became louder. An enormous number of crocodiles were seen, +and Mr Baker counted, on one sandbank alone, twenty-seven of large +size. + +Reaching a deserted fishing village, the crew at first refused to +proceed further, but, on Mr Baker explaining that he merely wished to +see the falls, they paddled up the stream, now strong against them. + +On rounding a point, a magnificent sight burst upon them. On either +side of the river were beautifully-wooded cliffs, rising abruptly to a +height of about three hundred feet, rocks jutting out from the intensely +green foliage, while, rushing through a gap which cleft the rock exactly +before them, was the river. It is here contracted from a grand stream +to the width of scarcely a hundred and fifty feet. Roaring fiercely +through the rock-bound pass, it plunged, in one leap of about a hundred +and twenty feet, perpendicularly into the dark abyss below, the +snow-white sheet of water contrasting superbly with the dark cliff that +walled the river, while the graceful palms of the tropics, and wild +plantains, perfected the beauty of the scene. + +This was the great waterfall of the Nile, and was named the Murchison +Falls, in compliment to the president of the Royal Geographical Society. +To the river itself he gave the name of the Victoria Nile. + +Having taken a view of the falls, and remained for some time admiring +them, narrowly escaping being upset by a huge bull hippopotamus, they +returned down the river to Magimgo. + +Starting the next morning, both Mr and Mrs Baker suffering from fever, +while all their quinine was exhausted, they found that their oxen had +been bitten by the tsetse-fly, and were in a wretched condition, +unlikely to live. Their guide also deserted them, and the whole of +their carriers went off, leaving them on the Island of Patooam, in the +Victoria River, to which they had been ferried across. + +It was now the 8th of April, and within a few days the boats in which +they had hoped to return down the Nile would leave Gondokoro. It was, +therefore, of the greatest importance that they should set out at once, +and take a direct route through the Shooa country. + +The natives, not to be tempted even by bribes, positively refused to +carry them. Their own men were also ill, and there was a great scarcity +of provisions. War, indeed, was going on in the country to the east, +Patooam being in the hands of Kamrasi's enemies. It was on this account +that no Unyoro porters could be found. + +They might have starved had not an underground granary of seed been +discovered, by the means of Bacheeta, in one of the villages burned down +by the enemy. This, with several varieties of wild plants, enabled them +to support existence. + +The last of their oxen, after lingering for some time, lay down to die, +affording the men a supply of beef, and Saati and Bacheeta occasionally +obtained a fowl from one of the neighbouring islands, which they visited +in a canoe. + +At length both Mr and Mrs Baker fully believed that their last hour +was come, and he wrote various instructions in his journal, directing +his head man to deliver his maps and observations to the British Consul +at Khartoum. + +The object, it appeared, of Kamrasi in thus leaving them, was to obtain +their assistance against his enemies, and at length their guide, +Rehonga, made his appearance, having been ordered to carry them to +Kamrasi's camp. + +The journey was performed, in spite of their weak state; and on their +arrival they found ten of the Turks left as hostages with Kamrasi by +Ibrahim, who had returned to Gondokoro. The Turks received them with +respect and manifestations of delight and wonder at their having +performed so difficult a journey. + +A hut was built for their reception, and an ox, killed by the Turks, was +prepared as a feast for their people. + +The next day the king notified his readiness to receive the traveller, +who, attiring himself in a Highland costume, was carried on the +shoulders of a number of men into the presence of the monarch. The king +informed him that he had made arrangements for his remaining at Kisoona. + +As now all hope of reaching Gondokoro in time for the boats had gone, +Mr Baker, yielding to necessity, prepared to make himself at home. He +had a comfortable hut built, surrounded by a court-yard with an open +shed in which he and his wife could spend the hot hours of the day. +Kamrasi sent him a cow which gave an abundance of milk, also amply +supplying him with food. + +Here the travellers were compelled to spend many months. Their stay was +cut short, in consequence of the invasion of the country by Fowooka's +people, accompanied by a large band of Turks under the trader Debono. +Kamrasi proposed at once taking to flight; but Baker promised to hoist +the flag of England, and to place the country under British protection. +He then sent a message to Mahomet, Debono's _vakeel_, warning him that +should a shot be fired by any of his people, he would be hung, and +ordering them at once to quit the country; informing them, besides, that +he had already promised all the ivory to Ibrahim, so that, contrary to +the rules of the traders, they were trespassing in the territory. + +This letter had its due effect. Mahomet deserted his allies, who were +immediately attacked by Kamrasi's troops, and cut to pieces, while the +women and children were brought away as captives. Among them, Bacheeta, +who had once been a slave in the country, recognised her former +mistress, who had been captured with the wives and daughters of their +chief, Rionga. + +After this Ibrahim returned, bringing a variety of presents for Kamrasi, +which, in addition to the defeat of his enemies, put him in excellent +humour. + +Mr Baker was able to save the life of an old chief, Kalloe, who had +been captured; but some days afterwards the treacherous Kamrasi shot him +with his own hand. + +At length the Turkish traders, having collected a large supply of ivory, +were ready to return to Shooa; and Mr Baker, thankful to leave the +territory of the brutal Kamrasi, took his leave, and commenced the +journey with his allies, who, including porters, women, and children, +amounted to a thousand people. + +At Shooa he spent some months more encamped among the friendly Madi. + +As they were marching thence through the country inhabited by the Bari +tribe, they were attacked in a gorge by the natives. The latter were, +however, driven back; but the following night the camp was surrounded, +and poisoned arrows shot into it. One of the natives, who had ventured +nearer than the rest, was shot, when the rest, who could not be seen on +account of the darkness, retired. In the morning a number of arrows +were picked up. + +On reaching Gondokoro, only three boats had arrived, while the trading +parties were in consternation at hearing that the Egyptian authorities +were about to suppress the slave trade and with four steamers had +arrived at Khartoum, two of which had ascended the White Nile and had +captured many slavers. Thus the three thousand slaves who were then +assembled at Gondokoro would be utterly worthless. + +The plague also was raging at Khartoum, and many among the crews of the +boats had died on the passage. Mr Baker, however, engaged one of them, +a _diabiah_, belonging to Koorshid Pacha. + +Bidding farewell to his former opponent, Ibrahim, who had since, +however, behaved faithfully, Mr Baker and his devoted wife commenced +their voyage down the Nile. + +Unhappily the plague, as might have been expected, broke out on board, +and several of their people died among them. They chiefly regretted the +loss of the faithful little boy, Saati. + +At Khartoum, which they reached on the 5th of May, 1865, they were +welcomed by the whole European population, and hospitably entertained. + +Here they remained two months. During the time the heat was intense, +and the place was visited by a dust-storm, which in a few minutes +produced an actual pitchy darkness. At first there was no wind, and +when it came it did not arrive with the violence that might have been +expected. So intense was the darkness, that Mr Baker and his +companions tried in vain to distinguish their hands placed close before +their eyes: not even an outline could be seen. This lasted for upwards +of twenty minutes, and then rapidly passed away. They had, however, +felt such darkness as the Egyptians experienced in the time of Moses. + +The plague had been introduced by the slaves landed from two vessels +which had been captured, and in which the pestilence had broken out. +They contained upwards of eight hundred and fifty human beings. Nothing +could be more dreadful than the condition in which the unhappy beings +were put on shore. The women had afterwards been distributed among the +soldiers, and, in consequence, the pestilence had been disseminated +throughout the place. + +Mr Baker had the satisfaction of bringing Mahomet Her, who had +instigated his men to mutiny at Latooka, to justice. He was seized and +carried before the governor, when he received one hundred and fifty +lashes. How often had the wretch flogged women to excess! What murders +had he not committed! And now how he howled for mercy! Mr Baker, +however, begged that the punishment might be stopped, and that it might +be explained to him that he was thus punished for attempting to thwart +the expedition of an English traveller by instigating his escort to +mutiny. + +The Nile having now risen, the voyage was recommenced; but their vessel +was very nearly wrecked on descending the cataracts. + +On reaching Berber, they crossed the desert east to Sonakim on the Red +Sea. Hence, finding a steamer, they proceeded by way of Suez to Cairo, +where they left the faithful Richarn and his wife in a comfortable +situation as servants at Shepherd's Hotel, and Mr Baker had the +satisfaction of hearing that the Royal Geographical Society had awarded +him the Victoria Gold Medal, a proof that his exertions had been duly +appreciated. He also, on his arrival in England, received the honour of +knighthood. + +Sir Samuel and Lady Baker, after a short stay at home, returned to +Egypt; Sir Samuel there having received the rank of pacha from the +Khedive, organised an expedition to convey steamers up the Nile, to be +placed on the waters of Lake Albert Nyanza, and with a strong hand to +put a stop to the slave trade, the horrors of which he had witnessed. +For many weary months he laboured in his herculean task, opposed in +every possible way by the slave-traders, and the treachery and open +hostility of the natives, overcoming obstacles which would have daunted +any but the most courageous and determined of men. + +Reports of his defeat and destruction reached England; but happily they +proved to be false, and it is to be hoped that he and his heroic wife +will, ere long, return in safety to give an account of their adventures. + + + +CHAPTER TWENTY FIVE. + +DR. LIVINGSTONE'S THIRD GREAT EXPEDITION. + +DR. LIVINGSTONE, WITH THIRTY FOLLOWERS, LANDS NEAR MOUTH OF ROVUMA-- +PROCEEDS UP BANK OF RIVER--MISCONDUCT OF SEPOYS--LOSS OF ANIMALS-- +REACHES LAKE NYASSA--THE BABISA CHIEF--ROGUISH ARAB--PROCEEDS WESTWARD-- +VISITS THE CHAMBEZI--ARRIVES AT KAZEMBE'S CITY--LONDA--RECEPTIONS BY THE +KING AND HIS WIFE--LAKE MOPO--LAKE MOERO--THE LUALABA RIVER--PROCEEDS +DOWN IT--OTHER LARGE LAKES HEARD OF--COMPELLED TO RETURN EAST--TREACHERY +OF A MOOR--THREE YEARS OCCUPIED IN EXPLORING--SEVERE ILLNESS--MILD +CHARACTER OF NATIVES--CRUELTIES OF THE ARABS--RETURNS TO UJIJI. + +Notwithstanding the dangers and hardships he had endured during the many +years spent in penetrating into the interior of Africa and exploring the +Zambesi, Dr Livingstone, unwearied and undaunted, felt an ardent desire +to make further discoveries, to open up a road for commerce, and, more +than all, to prepare the way for the the spread of the Gospel among the +benighted inhabitants of the mighty continent. + +A year after he performed his adventurous voyage in the "Lady Nyassa" to +Bombay, he returned to Zanzibar to make arrangements for another +expedition. + +For the particulars of the expedition we have to depend on the brief +letters he sent home at distant periods, and more especially on the +deeply-interesting account of Mr Stanley, who, when many had begun to +despair of the traveller's return, made his adventurous journey to find +him. + +See "How I Found Livingstone," by Henry M Stanley. Sampson, Low and +Company, 1872. + +The Governor of Bombay had given Dr Livingstone permission to take +twelve Sepoys, who, being provided with Enfield rifles, were to act as +guards to the expedition. He had brought nine men from Johanna, and +these, with seven liberated slaves and two Zambesi men, making thirty in +all, formed his attendants, and were considered sufficient to enable him +to pass through the country without having to fear any marauding attacks +from the natives. + +Leaving Zanzibar in March, 1866, he landed in a bay to the north of the +mouth of the Rovuma River, early in the following month. + +On the 7th of April he began his journey into the interior, moving along +the left bank of the river. His baggage consisted of bales of cloth and +bags of beads, with which to enable him to purchase food and pay tribute +to the chiefs through whose territories he might pass. He had, besides, +his chronometer, sextant, artificial horizon, and thermometers carried +in cases, as also medicines, and the necessary clothing and other +articles for himself. To carry the luggage he had also brought six +camels, three horses, two mules, and three donkeys. + +The route he had chosen was beset with difficulties. For miles on the +bank of the river he found the country covered with dense jungle, +through which the axe was required to hew a way. There was, indeed, a +path which twisted and turned about in _every_ direction, formed by the +natives, sufficient for the passage of persons unencumbered by luggage, +but which it was found the camels could not possibly pass along, unless +the branches overhead were first cut down. + +Greatly to his disappointment the Sepoys and Johanna men, unaccustomed +to such sort of labour, showed from the first a great dislike to be +employed in it, and, soon after they started, they began to use every +means in their power to ruin the expedition, in order to compel their +leader to return to the coast. So cruelly did they neglect and ill +treat the unfortunate camels and other animals, that in a short time +they all died. The doctor, however, obtained natives to carry on the +loads. They then tried to prejudice him in the minds of the natives by +bringing all sorts of false accusations against him. They likewise +behaved ill in a variety of other ways. To lighten their own shoulders, +they laid hands on any woman or boy they could find, and compelled them +to carry their arms and ammunition. Frequently also, after marching a +short distance, they would throw themselves down on the ground, +declaring that they were too much fatigued to move, and refused to +advance, often not making their appearance till the camp was formed in +the evening. + +The doctor, feeling that even should he be attacked, they would probably +desert him, at length dismissed the whole of the Sepoys, and, providing +them with provisions, sent them back to the coast. + +For several days together he and his remaining men travelled through an +uninhabited wilderness, and, being unable to obtain food, they suffered +much from hunger, while several of the men deserted. Reaching, however, +the village of a Wahiyou chief, situated on high ground above Lake +Nyassa, their wants were supplied. + +Early next month he arrived at the village of another chief, named +Mpende, near the shore of Lake Nyassa. Here one of his attendants, in +whom he thought he could place confidence, and whom he had liberated +from slavery, insisted on leaving him, making various excuses for doing +so. He also tried to induce another youth, named Chumah, to desert; but +the latter coming to the doctor, who suspected that he would only be +made a slave of, persuaded him to remain. + +The next halt was made at the residence of a Babisa chief, who was +suffering from sickness; and here the doctor remained till he had seen +him restored to health. + +While at this place an Arab arrived, and declared that he had escaped +from a marauding band of Mazitu, who had plundered him of his property. +He so worked on Musa, the captain of the Johanna men, who pretended to +believe his account, that Musa entreated the doctor to return; but when +the Babisa chief denounced the Arab as an impostor, Musa confessed that +his great object was to get back to his family at Johanna. + +On finding that the doctor persevered in his intention to proceed +westward, Musa and his followers deserted him. + +Thus was Livingstone left with only three or four attendants to +prosecute his journey, while those who had gone off had robbed him of +much of his property and even the greater part of his own clothes. + +Leaving the Nyassa, he proceeded westward, passing through the +territories of numerous chiefs, who generally treated him hospitably, +though he had numerous difficulties to encounter, and constantly met +with misfortunes. + +Continuing his course west and north-west, he came to a large river +flowing west, called the Chambezi, and, in consequence of the similarity +of its name to that of the stream he had so long navigated, he +concluded, trusting to the accounts given by Dr Lacerda, that it was +but the head water of the Zambesi. He pushed on therefore, without +paying it the attention he otherwise would have done. He subsequently +discovered that it fell into a large lake called Bangueolo, to the south +of which are a range of mountains which cut it off completely from the +Zambesi. + +Directing his course to the north-west, through the large province of +Londa, he reached the town of a chief named Kazembe, of whom he had +heard through Dr Lacerda. + +This prince was a very intelligent man, with a fine commanding figure. +He received Dr Livingstone, dressed in a kilt of crimson stuff, +surrounded by his nobles and guards. + +The doctor had previously received a visit from a chief, who called to +enquire the objects he had in view, and who now announced in due form +the reply he had received. He stated that the white man had arrived for +the purpose of ascertaining what rivers and lakes existed in the +country, though, as he observed, it was difficult to comprehend why he +wished to gain such information. The king then, having put various +questions to the doctor, the answers to which seemed to satisfy him, +gave him leave to travel wherever he liked throughout his dominions, and +assured him that he could do so without the risk of interference from +any of his subjects. He had never before seen an Englishman, and he was +pleased to see one for whom he already felt a regard. Soon after the +doctor received the announcement that the queen would honour him by a +visit, and a dignified fine-looking young woman, holding a spear in her +hand, and followed by a number of damsels also with spears, made her +appearance, evidently intending to produce an effect upon the white +stranger. Her costume, however, and the enormous weapon she carried in +her hand, seems so to have tickled the doctor's fancy, that he burst +into a fit of laughter. The lady herself and her attendant maidens, +unable to resist the influence of the doctor's laugh, joined in the fun, +and, wheeling about, rapidly beat a retreat. The doctor quickly made +himself at home with his new friends, and under their protection +commenced a series of researches which occupied him for many months. + +Londa, Kazembe's capital, is situated on the small Lake Mopo. To the +north of it is a very much larger lake called Moero, surrounded by lofty +mountains, clothed to their summits with the rich vegetation of the +tropics. The whole scenery is indeed beautiful and magnificent in the +extreme. + +This is, however, only one of a series of lakes which the doctor +discovered in the wide-extending province of Londa. The most southern +is the large lake of Bangueolo, four thousand feet above the level of +the sea, its area almost equal to that of Lake Tanganyika. It is into +this lake that the Chambezi and a vast number of other smaller streams +empty themselves. + +As the Chambezi rises in the lofty plateau of Lobisa, six thousand six +hundred feet above the level of the sea, the doctor is inclined, from +the discoveries he afterwards made, to consider that it is the true +source of the Nile, which, if such is the case, would give that river a +length in direct latitude of upwards of two thousand miles, making it +only second to the Mississippi, the longest river on the face of the +globe. + +This will be seen as we proceed with the account of his interesting +discoveries. + +The next important fact to be observed is that a larger river than any +of them, called the Luapula, runs out of the lake into Lake Moero. Out +of the northern end of the Lake Moero again another large river, the +Lualaba, runs thundering forth through a vast chasm, and then, expanding +into a calm stream of great width, winds its way north and west till it +enters a third large lake, the Kamolondo. The doctor gave it the +additional name of Webb's River. In some places he found it to be three +miles broad. He perseveringly followed it down its course, and found it +again making its exit from Lake Kamolondo, till it was joined by other +large rivers, some coming from the south and others from the east, till +he reached the village of Nyangwe, in latitude 4 degrees south. Here, +having exhausted the means of purchasing fresh provisions, and his +followers refusing to proceed further, he was compelled to bring his +journey northward to a termination. This was not till the year 1871. + +He, however, heard of another enormous lake to the northward, into which +the Lualaba empties itself, bounded by a range to the westward called +the Balegga mountains. From the information he received, he believed +that this last-mentioned lake is connected by a series of small lakes, +or by a somewhat sluggish stream, with the Albert Nyanza, the waters of +which undoubtedly flow into the Nile. + +Of course it is possible that the waters which flow out of this large +unknown lake, instead of running to the north-east into the Albert +Nyanza, may have a westerly or north-westerly course, in which case, +instead of making their way into the Nile, they may be feeders of the +Congo river. + +To the south-west of Lake Kamolondo the doctor discovered another large +lake, to which he gave the name of Lake Lincoln, after the President of +the United States, the liberator of their negro population. + +Another large river, the Lomame, flowing from the southward, enters this +lake, and, passing out again at its northern end, joins the Luaba, which +after this takes an almost, northerly course. + +These discoveries occupied Dr Livingstone three years. After his +discovery of Lake Moero, while residing with Kazembe, he unfortunately +became acquainted with a half-caste Moor, named Mahommed Ben Sali, who +had been detained as a prisoner by the king. The doctor obtained his +release, and allowed the Arab to accompany him. The villainous old +fellow, in return, did his utmost to ruin Dr Livingstone, by inducing +his attendants to desert him, and even Susi and Chumah for a time were +won over, though they ultimately returned to the doctor. + +During his journeys, now to the west, now to the east, he met, in the +latter quarter, a large sheet of water, which he discovered to be the +southern end of Lake Tanganyika, and, after remaining some time with +Kazembe, he set off, and crossed over to Ujiji, which he reached about +the middle of March, 1869. After resting here till June, he again +crossed the lake, and proceeded westward with a party of traders till he +reached the large village of Bambarra, in Manyema. + +It is the chief ivory depot in that province, where large quantities are +obtained. + +He was here detained six months, suffering severely from ulcers in his +feet, which prevented him putting them to the ground, and from thence it +was, when again able to set out, that he discovered the course of the +Lualaba, which occupied him till the year 1871. + +From Nyangwe, as before mentioned, he was compelled to return eastward +to Ujiji, a distance of seven hundred miles. Manyema, in the province +of Ruo, lying directly to the south of it, is inhabited by heathens, +each village governed by its own chief, holding little or no +communication with their neighbours. The people appear to be mild and +inoffensive, though perfect pagans. They posses a considerable amount +of ingenuity, and manufacture a most beautiful fabric from fine grass, +equal to the finest grass cloth of India. + +So numerous are the elephants which range through the wilds of this +region, that until the Arabs unhappily made their way into it, the +people were accustomed to form their door-posts and partially to build +their houses with ivory tusks. The inhabitants, who were then +unacquainted with firearms, were so terrified at hearing the reports of +the Arabs' muskets and feeling their effects, that they did not attempt +to defend themselves, and already great numbers had been carried off +into slavery by the abominable kidnappers. + +Dr Livingstone witnessed a horrible massacre committed by one of these +wretches, a half-caste Arab, Tagamoyo by name, with his armed slaves, on +a number of the helpless inhabitants collected in a market-place on the +bank of the Lualaba. While the people, unsuspicious of danger, were +assembled, to the number of two thousand, eagerly carrying on their +trade, the wretch Tangamoyo suddenly appeared, and opened fire upon +them. Numbers were shot down, others rushed to their canoes, and, in +their terror, made off without their companions, while many, throwing +themselves headlong into the water, were seized by the voracious +crocodiles. Upwards of four hundred women and children were killed, +while a greater number were carried off into slavery. + +The doctor describes the people as of light colour, with well-formed +features. Being of gentle manners, they are eagerly sought for by the +Arabs, whose wives they sometimes become. + +Further to the north he met with a race not darker than the Portuguese, +and a remarkably handsome people, who seemed to have a peculiar aptitude +for commerce. + +In Ruo he discovered some rich copper mines. + +On reaching Ujiji, on the 16th of October, 1871, greatly to his dismay +he found that Sherrif, into whose charge he had committed his goods, +had, believing him to be dead, sold the whole of them for ivory, which +he had appropriated. + +Thus, the doctor, already suffering fearfully from illness, found +himself deprived of the means of purchasing food or paying his way back +to the coast. The letters, stores, and provisions sent to him from +Zanzibar had been detained on the road. + +What might have been his fate had he not been succoured by Mr Stanley, +who, as we are about to relate, at the head of the "New York Herald" +expedition, so nobly and gallantly made his way across to find him, it +is impossible to say. + + + +CHAPTER TWENTY SIX. + +STANLEY'S EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF DR. LIVINGSTONE. + +STANLEY SENT OUT BY MR. BENNETT, OF THE "NEW YORK HERALD"--REACHES +ZANZIBAR--DR. KIRK--HIS WHITE AND NATIVE ATTENDANTS--BOMBAY ENGAGED-- +BOATS PREPARED--CROSSES TO BAGOMOYO--JESUIT MISSION--FINDS CARAVAN FOR +RELIEF OF LIVINGSTONE DETAINED--DIFFICULTIES TO BE SURMOUNTED--PORTERS +ABSCOND--MISCONDUCT OF WHITE MEN--A STRONGLY FORTIFIED TOWN--ATTACKED BY +FEVER--SENDS FARQUHAR SICK TO MPWAPWA, WHERE HE DIES--SHAW FIRES AT +STANLEY--STANLEY'S COOL CONDUCT--EXPEDITION ENTERS UGOGO WITH ARAB +CARAVAN--HEAVY TRIBUTE DEMANDED BY SULTAN OF MVUMI--DONKEYS DIE--JOURNEY +THROUGH JUNGLE--COUNTRY LAID WASTE BY ARAB SLAVE-TRADERS--WELL RECEIVED +BY MKASWA--LIVINGSTONE CARAVAN ARRIVES--PREPARES TO START FOR UJIJI-- +SOME OF HIS MEN JOIN ARABS IN AN ATTACK ON A TOWN, AND ARE DEFEATED-- +STANLEY AND SHAW NARROWLY ESCAPE--RETURNS TO KIVIHARA--THE PLACE +THREATENED--PREPARATIONS FOR DEFENCE--HEARS NEWS OF LIVINGSTONE-- +RECEIVES PRESENT OF A SLAVE BOY, KIULU--FOLLOWERS PROVE REFRACTORY--SETS +OUT--SENDS SHAW BACK--NARROW ESCAPE FROM A CROCODILE--DONKEY SEIZED BY +CROCODILE--MEET CARAVAN FROM UJIJI--MORE NEWS OF LIVINGSTONE--THREATENED +BY WAHHA--PASS VILLAGE AT NIGHT--NEARLY DISCOVERED--LAKE TANGANYIKA +SEEN--DR. LIVINGSTONE FOUND AT LAST--LIVINGSTONE RECOVERS--CHARACTER OF +LIVINGSTONE--VOYAGE ON LAKE TANGANYIKA--THE RUSIZI RIVER--LIVINGSTONE +AND STANLEY SET OFF FROM UJIJI TOGETHER--JOURNEY TO MKASWA, AND STAY +THERE--LIVINGSTONE REMAINS, AND STANLEY PROCEEDS TO ZANZIBAR TO FIT OUT +AN EXPEDITION TO ASSIST HIM--FINDS KISALUNGO DESTROYED BY A FLOOD-- +DREADFUL FLOODS--ADVENTURES ON JOURNEY--MEETS WITH THE LIVINGSTONE +RELIEF EXPEDITION--IT IS DISBANDED--DISBANDS HIS OWN, AND FITS OUT A +FRESH ONE--STARTS IT OFF, AND SAILS FOR ENGLAND VIA THE SEYCHELLES-- +NOBLE LIBERALITY OF MR. BENNETT. + +The spirited proprietor of the "New York Herald," James Gordon Bennett, +having become deeply interested in the fate of Dr Livingstone, +determined to send out one of his special correspondents, Mr Henry M. +Stanley, then at Madrid, to Africa, in search of the traveller. + +Arriving in Paris, Stanley received his instructions, which were, first +to ascertain in Egypt what Sir Samuel Baker--then about to start up the +Nile--intended to do, and, after visiting a good many other places, to +make his way _via_ Bombay, Mauritius, and the Seychelles, to Zanzibar. + +He carried out his instructions, and arrived in January, 1871, at +Zanzibar, which he found to be a much more beautiful and fertile island +than he had supposed. + +He soon introduced himself to Dr Kirk, and, without delay, set about +making the necessary preparations for his journey. + +The great difficulty was to obtain information as to the amount of food, +or rather the articles for purchasing it, which would be required for +the hundred men he proposed enlisting in his service. + +He had engaged at Jerusalem a Christian Arab boy named Selim, who was to +act as his interpreter, and he had also on the voyage attached to the +expedition two mates of merchantmen, Farquhar and Shaw, who were very +useful in constructing tents and arranging two boats and the +pack-saddles and packages for the journey, but who proved in other +respects very poor travellers. He also secured the services of that now +well-known hero, Bombay, captain of Speke's faithfuls, and five of his +other followers, Uledi, Grant's valet, and the bull-headed Mabruki, who +had in the mean time lost one of his hands, but, notwithstanding, was +likely to prove useful. They were the only remains of the band to be +found, the rest having died or gone elsewhere. These six still retained +their medals for assisting in the discovery of the source of the Nile. + +The boats, one of which was capable of carrying twenty people and the +other six, were stripped of their planks, the timbers and thwarts only +being carried. Instead of the planking it was proposed to cover them +with double canvas skin, well tarred. They and the rest of the baggage +were carried in loads, none exceeding sixty-eight pounds in weight. Two +horses and twenty-seven donkeys were purchased, and a small cart, while +the traveller had brought with him a watch-dog, which he hoped would +guard his tent from prowling thieves. An ample supply of beads, cloth, +and wire were also laid in, with tea, sugar, rice, and medicine. To +Bombay and his faithfuls were added eighteen more free men, who were all +well-armed, and when mustered appeared an exceedingly fine-looking body +of soldiers. These were to act as escort to the _pagazis_, or carriers. + +On the 4th of February, 1871, the expedition was ready, and on the 5th +embarked in four dhows, which conveyed it across to Bagomoyo on the +mainland. + +Here it was detained five weeks while its persevering leader was +combatting the rogueries of Ali Ben Salim and another Arab, Hadji +Palloo, who had undertaken to secure one hundred and forty _pagazis_. +The packages were rearranged, the tents improved, and other necessary +arrangements made. + +He found here a caravan which had been despatched by the British Consul +a hundred days before to the relief of Dr Livingstone; but which, its +leader making as an excuse that he was unable to obtain a fresh number +of _pagazis_, had hitherto remained inactive. + +The climate of Bagomoyo is far superior to that of Zanzibar. + +In its neighbourhood a French Jesuit mission has been for some time +established, with ten priests and as many sisters, who have been very +successful in educating two hundred boys and girls. The priests +sumptuously entertained Mr Stanley with excellent champagne and claret, +while some of their pupils, among whom they had formed an excellent +brass band, amused them with instrumental music and French songs. + +He divided his expedition into five caravans, the first of which he +started off on the 18th of February, although it was not till March 21st +that he with the largest was able to commence his journey westward. +Altogether the expedition numbered on the day of departure, besides the +commander and his two white attendants, twenty-three soldiers, four +chiefs, one hundred and fifty-three _pagazis_, and four supernumeraries. +Every possible care had been bestowed on the outfit, and in nothing +that it needed was it stinted. + +Bombay proved to be as honest and trustworthy as formerly, while Ferajji +and Mabruki turned out true men and staunch, the latter, on one +occasion, finding a difficulty in dragging the cart, having brought it +along on his head rather than abandon it. + +The Kinganni river was reached by a bridge rapidly formed with American +axes, the donkeys refusing to pass through the water. + +The country due west of Bagomoyo was found to be covered with towns and +villages which were previously unknown. + +Soon after starting, Omar, the watch-dog was missing, when Mabruki, +hastening back, found him at the previous halting-place. + +One of the caravans at the same place was detained by the sickness of +three of the _pagazis_, whose places it was necessary to supply. + +Stanley soon had to experience the invariable troubles of African +travellers. His two horses died within a few hours of each other, both, +however, from disease of long standing, and not from the climate. + +Few men were better able to deal with the rogueries of the petty chiefs +he met with than Mr Stanley. He had always a ready answer, and +invariably managed to catch them in their own traps, while the "great +master," as he was called, managed to keep all his subordinates in +pretty good order. + +One of his _pagazis_, Khamisi, under Shaw's command, having absconded, +Uledi and Ferajji found him, having fallen into the hands of some +plundering Washensi, who were about to kill him. A court of eight +soldiers and eight _pagazis_, having been convened, condemned him to be +flogged with the "great master's" donkey-whip. As Shaw ought to have +kept a better look out, he was ordered to give him one blow and the +_pagazis_ and soldiers the remainder. This being done, the man was +pardoned. + +Moving on, the expedition passed Simbamwenni, the capital of Useguhha, +the fortifications of which are equal to any met with in Persia. The +area of the town is about half a square mile, while four towers of stone +guard each corner. There are four gates, one in each wall, which are +closed with solid square doors of African teak, and carved with +complicated devices. + +It is ruled by the daughter of the infamous Kisalungo, notorious as a +robber and kidnapper, another Theodore on a small scale. + +Before long Stanley was attacked with fever, which greatly prostrated +his strength, though he quickly recovered by taking strong dozes of +quinine. + +The most painful event which occurred was the flight of Bunda Selim, who +had been punished for pilfering rations. The men sent after him were +seized and imprisoned by the Sultana of Simbamwenni, and, though +ultimately liberated by the interference of an Arab sheikh, nothing +could be found of the missing cook. Shaw also fell ill, and left the +task of urging on the floundering caravan through marshes and rivers to +his superior. Several of the others followed his example, and even +Bombay complained of pains and became unserviceable. + +The report from Farquhar's caravan was most unsatisfactory, he, as far +as Stanley could make out, having lost all his donkeys. The unhappy +man, indeed, he found on overtaking him, was suffering from dropsy. He +had also given to the _pagazis_ and soldiers no small amount of the +contents of the bales committed to his charge, as payment for the +services he had demanded of them, and in purchasing expensive luxuries. +As he could not walk and was worse than useless, Stanley was obliged to +send the sick man, under the charge of Mabruki, thirty miles away to the +village of Mpwapwa, to the chief of which place he promised an ample +reward if he would take care of him. + +Worse than all the wretched Shaw, after a dispute, during the night +fired into his tent, too evidently with the intention of killing him. +He found the intended murderer pretending to be asleep, with a gun by +his side yet warm. Unable to deny that he had fired, he declared that +in his dreams he had seen a thief pass his door; and then asked what was +the matter? "Oh, nothing," answered Stanley; "but I would advise you in +future, in order to avoid all suspicion, not to fire into my tent, or at +least, so near me. I might get hurt, in which case ugly reports would +get about, and this, perhaps, would be disagreeable, as you are probably +aware. Good night!" + +On reaching Mpwapwa the Chief Lencolo positively refused to take charge +of the white man unless an interpreter was left with him, and Jako, who +was the only one of the party besides Bombay and Selim who could speak +English, was ordered to remain in that capacity. + +The expedition was now about to enter Ugogo. During the passage of the +intervening desert, five out of the nine donkeys died, the cart having +some time before been left behind. + +The expedition was now joined by several Arab caravans, so that the +number of the party amounted to about four hundred souls, strong in +guns, flags, horns sounding, drums, and noise. This host was to be led +by Stanley and Sheikh Hamed through the dreaded Ugogo. + +On the 26th of May they were at Mvumi, paying heavy tribute to the +sultan. Nothing seemed to satisfy him. Stanley suggested that as he +had twenty Wazunga armed with Winchester repeating rifles, he might make +the sultan pay tribute to him. The sheikh entreated that he would act +peaceably, urging that angry words might induce the sultan to demand +double the tribute. + +While here five more donkeys died, and their bones were picked clean +before the morning by the hyaenas. + +The tribute was paid to preserve peace, and on the 27th, shaking the +dust of Mvumi off their feet, the party proceeded westward. The country +was one vast field of grain, and thickly populated. + +Between that place and the next sultan's district twenty-five villages +were counted. Whenever they halted large groups of people assembled and +greeted with peals of laughter the dress and manner of the _mzungu_, or +white man, and more than once had to be kept at a distance by Stanley's +rifle or pistols, sometimes his thick whip coming into play. + +After this a dense jungle was entered, the path serpentining in and out +of it; again open tracts of grass bleached white were passed: now it led +through thickets of gums and thorns, producing an odour as rank as a +stable; now through clumps of wide-spreading mimosa and colonies of +baobab-trees across a country teeming with noble game, which, though +frequently seen, were yet as safe from their rifles as if they had been +on the Indian Ocean. But the road they were on admitted of no delay; +water had been left behind at noon; until noon the next day not a drop +was to be obtained, and unless they marched fast and long, raging thirst +would demoralise everybody. + +After this wearisome journey Stanley was again attacked by fever, which +it required a whole day's halt and fifty grains of quinine to cure. + +As may be supposed they were thankful when Ugogo was passed, and they +entered Unyanyembe. + +As the caravan resumed its march after halting at noon, the Wanyamuezi +cheered, shouted, and sang, the soldiers and _pagazis_ shouting in +return, and the _kirangoza_ blew his horn much more merrily than he had +been wont to do in Ugogo. + +A large district, however, presented the sad spectacle of numerous +villages burnt down, cattle carried off, and the grain-fields overrun +with jungle and rank weeds--too common a sight in that part of the +country. + +The expedition at length entered Kivihara, the capital of the province +ruled over by the aged Sultan Mkaswa, who received Stanley in a friendly +way. The Sheikh Said Ben Salim invited him to take up his quarters in +his _tembe_, or house, a comfortable-looking place for the centre of +Africa. Here his goods were stored, and his carriers paid off. + +His three other caravans had arrived safely. One had had a slight +skirmish, a second having shot a thief, and the third having lost a bale +when attacked by robbers. + +This is the place, to the southward of Victoria Nyanza, where Captains +Burton, Speke, and Grant remained for a considerable time at different +periods during their expeditions. + +Soon after, the Livingstone caravan arrived, and the goods were stored +with those of Stanley, the men being quartered with his. The chief of +the caravan brought Stanley a package of letters directed to Dr +Livingstone at Ujiji, when, to his surprise, he found that it was marked +outside: "November 1st, 1871." What a cruel delay was this! + +After his long journey, Stanley was now laid completely prostrate, and +for two weeks was perfectly senseless. The unhappy Shaw was also again +taken ill. The fever rapidly destroyed both his memory and his reason. +Selim, who had hitherto faithfully watched over his master and treated +him according to the written directions he had received, was also +prostrated, and in a state of delirium for four days. + +On the 28th of July, however, all had again recovered, and on the 29th +fifty _pagazis_ were ready to start with bales, beads, and wire for +Ujiji. + +Three days after this, Shaw again broke down, asserting he was dying, +and he had to be carried on the backs of his men till brought into his +leader's hut. + +The road, however, ahead was closed by the chief Mirambo, who declared +that no Arab caravan should pass that way. The Arabs, therefore, had +resolved to attack him, and mustered an army of upwards of two thousand +men. Stanley, with his followers, determined to join them, to assist in +bringing the war to a speedy conclusion. + +The palace was soon surrounded, and, though the party were received with +a volley, the fire of the defenders was soon silenced. They took to +flight, and the village was entered. + +Notwithstanding the heavy fire which had been kept on it, twenty dead +bodies only were found. + +Other villages were attacked and burned. + +A more serious affair occurred soon afterwards. When Stanley was again +attacked with fever, a number of his men, notwithstanding his orders to +the contrary, joined the Arabs in an attack on a more important place, +Wilyankuru, commanded by Mirambo himself. The result was that, though +the place was taken, the Arabs fell into an ambush, laid by Mirambo, and +were completely defeated, many of them, including some of Stanley's +soldiers, being killed. Mirambo, following up his successes, pursued +the Arabs, and Stanley had to mount his donkey, Shaw being lifted on +his, and to fly at midnight for their lives. His soldiers ran as fast +as their legs could carry them, the only one of his followers who +remained by his master's side being young Selim. At length they reached +Mfuto, from which they had issued forth so valiantly a short time +before. + +Stanley had felt it his duty to assist the Arabs, though he had now +cause to regret having done so. + +From the last-mentioned place he returned to Kivihara. Here he was +detained a considerable time, during which he received authentic news of +Livingstone from an Arab, who had met with him travelling into Manyema, +and who affirmed that, having gone to a market at Liemba in three +canoes, one of them, in which all his cloth had been placed, was upset +and lost. The news of Farquhar's death here reached him. + +As he had expected, Mirambo advanced; and one of the leading Arabs and +his adopted son, who had gone out with their slaves to meet him, the +slaves having deserted, were killed. + +The neighbouring village of Tabora was burned, and Kivihara itself was +threatened. Stanley made preparations for defence, and, having +collected a hundred and fifty armed men, bored loopholes for the muskets +in the clay walls of the _tembe_, formed rifle-pits round it, torn down +the huts, and removed everything which might afford shelter to the +enemy, felt little fear for the consequences. Mirambo, however, seemed +to have thought better of it, and marched away with his troops, +satisfied with the plunder he had obtained. + +Month after month passed away, and he had great difficulty in obtaining +soldiers to supply the places of those who had been killed or died, +which was the fate of several. + +He one day received a present of a little slave boy from an Arab +merchant, to whom, at Bombay's suggestion, the name of Klulu, meaning a +young antelope, was given. + +On the 9th of September Mirambo received a severe defeat, and had to +take to flight, several of his chief men being slain. + +Shaw gave Stanley a great deal of trouble. Again he himself was +attacked with fever, but his white companion in no degree sympathised +with him, even little Klulu showing more feeling. Weak as he was, he, +however, recommenced his march to the westward, with about forty men +added to his old followers. + +Bombay, not for the first time, proving refractory and impudent, +received a thrashing before starting, and when Stanley arrived at his +camp at night, he found that upwards of twenty of the men had remained +behind. He, therefore, sent a strong body back, under Selim, who +returned with the men and some heavy slave-chains, and Stanley declared +that if any behaved in the same way again he would fasten them together +and make them march like slaves. Shaw also showed an unwillingness to +go forward, and kept tumbling from his donkey, either purposely or from +weakness, till at last Stanley consented to allow him to return to +Unyanyembe. + +On the 1st of October, while he and his party lay encamped under a +gigantic sycamore-tree, he began to feel a contentment and comfort to +which he had long been a stranger, and he was enabled to regard his +surroundings with satisfaction. + +Though the sun's rays were hot, the next day's march was easily +performed. On the roadside lay a dead man; indeed, skeletons or skulls +were seen every day, one, and sometimes two, of men who had fallen down +and died, deserted by their companions. + +While encamped near the Gambe, its calm waters, on which lotus-leaves +rested placidly, all around looking picturesque and peaceful, invited +Stanley to take a bath. He discovered a shady spot under a +wide-spreading mimosa, where the ground sloped down to the still water, +and having undressed, was about to take a glorious dive, when his +attention was attracted by an enormously long body which shot into view, +occupying the spot beneath the surface which he was about to explore by +a header. It was a crocodile! He sprang back instinctively. This +proved his salvation, for the monster turned away with a disappointed +look, and he registered a vow never to be tempted again by the +treacherous calm of an African river. + +As war was going on in the country, it was necessary to proceed with +caution. Some of his followers also showed a strong inclination to +mutiny, which he had to quell by summary proceedings, and Bombay +especially sank greatly in his good opinion. + +As they approached Lake Tanganyika all got into better humour, and +confidence returned between them. They laughed joyously as they glided +in Indian file through the forest jungle beyond the clearing of Mrera, +and boasted of their prowess. + +An ambassador from Simba, the Lion of Kasera, received two gorgeous +cloths, and other articles, as tribute--Stanley thus making that chief a +friend for ever. + +After having encamped one evening, Stanley went out with his rifle, +accompanied by Klulu, to shoot some animal or other for supper. After +in vain searching, he was returning, when he encountered a wild boar, +which, although it received several bullets after it had fallen, at the +last moment started up, and escaped into the wood. On his return to the +camp, from which he was then three miles off, he was followed by some +large animal, which it was too dark to see plainly, but it must have +been either a lion or the ghost of the dead boar. At all events, during +the night, the party were startled by the roar of a lion, which was soon +joined by another and another. He turned out to shoot them, but not a +bullet took effect. At length he went to sleep with the roar of the +monster as a lullaby. + +On the evening of the 2nd of November the left bank of the Malagarazi +river was reached. The greater part of the day had been occupied in +negotiating with the ambassador of the great Mzogera, chief of the +greedy Wavinza tribe, who demanded an enormous _hongo_. This being +settled, the ferrymen demanded equally preposterous payment for carrying +across the caravan. These demands, however, having at length been +settled, the next business was to swim the donkeys across. One fine +animal, Simba, was being towed with a rope round its neck, when, just as +it reached the middle of the stream, it was seen to struggle fearfully. +An enormous crocodile had seized the poor animal by the throat; in vain +it attempted to liberate itself. The black in charge tugged at the +rope, but the donkey sank and was no more seen. Only one donkey now +remained, and this was carried across by Bombay the next morning, before +the voracious monsters were looking out for their breakfasts. + +The next day was an eventful one. Just before starting, a caravan was +seen approaching, consisting of a large party of the Waguhha tribe, +occupying a tract of country to the south-west of Lake Tanganyika. + +The news was asked. A white man had been seen by them who had lately +arrived at Ujiji from Manyema. He had white hair and a white beard, and +was sick. Only eight days ago they had seen him. He had been at Ujiji +before, and had gone away and returned. There could be no doubt that +this was Livingstone. How Stanley longed for a horse! for on a good +steed he could reach Ujiji in twelve hours. + +In high spirits he started, pushing on as fast as his men could move. +There were dangers, however, still in the way. A war party of Wavinza +was out, who would not scruple even to rob their own villages when +returning victorious from battle. + +Next day they travelled on in silence, but on the 5th fell in with a +party of the Wahha, who soon brought a band of warriors down upon them, +at the head of which appeared a fine-looking chief, Mionvu by name, +dressed in a crimson robe, with a turban on his head, he and his people +being armed with spears, and bows and arrows. He asked whether it +should be peace or war? The reply was, of course, peace. At the same +time Stanley hinted that his rifles would quickly give him the victory +should war be declared. Notwithstanding this Mionvu demanded a hundred +cloths as _hongo_. Ten were offered. Rather than pay the hundred, +Stanley asked his followers if they would fight, but Bombay urged +pacific measures, remarking that the country was open--no places to hide +in, and that every village would rise in arms. + +"Pay, Bana, pay: it is better to get along quietly in this country," he +observed. + +Mabruki and Asmani agreed with him. The _hongo_ was paid. Stanley +wisely resolved, if possible, not to come back that way. + +A night march was determined on, and sufficient grain was purchased to +last the caravan six days through the jungle. They hoped thus to escape +the extortions of other chiefs to the westward. The men bravely toiled +on, without murmuring, though their feet and legs bled from the cutting +grass. + +The jungle was alive with wild animals, but no one dared fire. + +As they were halting in the morning near the Rusugi river, a party of +natives were seen, who detected them in their hiding-place, but who fled +immediately to alarm some villages four miles away. At once the caravan +was ordered to move on, but one of the women took to screaming, and even +her husband could not keep her quiet till a cloth was folded over her +mouth. + +At night they bivouacked in silence, neither tent nor hut being erected, +each soldier lying down with his gun loaded by his side, their gallant +leader, with his Winchester rifle and its magazine full, ready for any +emergency. + +Before dawn broke, the caravan was again on its march. The guide having +made a mistake, while it was still dark, they arrived in front of the +village of Uhha. Silence was ordered; goats and chickens which might +have made a noise had their throats cut, and they pushed boldly through +the village. Just as the last hut was passed, Stanley bringing up the +rear, a man appeared from his hut, and uttered a cry of alarm. + +They continued their course, plunging into the jungle. Once he believed +that they were followed, and he took post behind a tree to check the +advance of their foes; but it proved a false alarm. + +Turning westward, broad daylight showed them a beautiful and picturesque +country, with wild fruit-trees, rare flowers, and brooks tumbling over +polished pebbles. + +Crossing a streamlet, to their great satisfaction they left Uhha and its +extortionate inhabitants behind, and entered Ukaranga. + +Their appearance created great alarm as they approached the village, the +king and his people supposing them to be Rugruga, the followers of +Mirambo, but, discovering their mistake, they welcomed them cordially. + +On the 10th of November, just two hundred and thirty-six days after +leaving Bagomoyo, and fifty-one since they set out from Unyanyembe, +surmounting a hill, Tanganyika is seen before them. Six hours' march +will bring them to its shores. + +On they push, the air fresh and cool--a glorious morning. The "stars +and stripes" float out in the breeze; repeated volleys are fired. The +village is reached. The faithful Chumah and Susi, Dr Livingstone's old +followers, rush out to see who the stranger is, and in a short time +Stanley is rewarded for all the dangers and hardships he has gone +through by meeting the long-looked-for traveller face to face. + +His own book must give the description of the meeting; it is not the +least graphic portion of his deeply interesting work. + +At the time, when reduced almost to death's door by sickness and +disappointment, the assistance thus brought to Dr Livingstone was of +inestimable worth. What might have been his fate had he not been +relieved, it is impossible to say. The society of his new friend, the +letters from home, the well-cooked meal which the doctor was able to +enjoy, and the champagne quaffed out of silver goblets, and brought +carefully those hundreds of miles for that especial object, had a +wonderfully exhilarating influence. + +Some days were spent at Ujiji, during which the doctor continued to +regain health and strength. Future plans were discussed, and his +previous adventures described. The longer the intercourse Stanley +enjoyed with Livingstone, the more he rose in his estimation. + +He formed, indeed, a high estimate of his character, though, he fully +believed, a just one. + +"Dr Livingstone," he says, "is about sixty years old. His hair has a +brownish colour, but here and there streaked with grey lines over the +temples. His beard and moustache are very grey. His eyes, which are +hazel, are remarkably bright: he has a sight keen as a hawk's. His +frame is a little over the ordinary height; when walking, he has a firm +but heavy tread, like that of an over-worked or fatigued man. I never +observed any spleen or misanthropy about him. He has a fund of quiet +humour, which he exhibits at all times when he is among friends. During +the four months I was with him I noticed him every evening making most +careful notes. His maps evince great care and industry. He is +sensitive on the point of being doubted or criticised. His gentleness +never forsakes him, his hopefulness never deserts him; no harassing +anxiety or distraction of mind, though separated from home and kindred, +can make him complain. He thinks all will come out right at last, he +has such faith in the goodness of Providence. Another thing which +especially attracted my attention was his wonderfully retentive memory. +His religion is not of the theoretical kind, but it is constant, +earnest, sincere, practical; it is neither demonstrative nor loud, but +manifests itself in a quiet, practical way, and is always at work. In +him religion exhibits its loveliest features; it governs his conduct not +only towards his servants, but towards the natives. I observed that +universal respect was paid to him; even the Mahommedans never passed his +house without calling to pay their compliments, and to say: `The +blessing of God rest on you!' Every Sunday morning he gathers his +little flock around him, and reads prayers and a chapter from the Bible +in a natural, unaffected, and sincere tone, and afterwards delivers a +short address in the Kisawahili language, about the subject read to +them, which is listened to with evident interest and attention. + +"His consistent energy is native to him and his race. He is a very fine +example of the perseverance, doggedness, and tenacity which +characterises the Anglo-Saxon spirit. His ability to withstand the +climate is due not only to the happy constitution with which he was +born, but to the strictly temperate life he has ever led. + +"It is a principle with him to do well what he undertakes to do, and, in +the consciousness that he is doing it, despite the yearning for his +home, which is sometimes overpowering, he finds to a certain extent +contentment, if not happiness. + +"He can be charmed with the primitive simplicity of Ethiopia's dusky +children, with whom he has spent so many years of his life. He has a +sturdy faith in their capability--sees virtue in them, where others see +nothing but savagery; and wherever he has gone among them, he has sought +to ameliorate the condition of a people who are apparently forgotten of +God and Christian men." + +In another place Stanley says: "Livingstone followed the dictates of +duty. Never was such a willing slave to that abstract virtue. His +inclinations impel him home, the fascinations of which it requires the +sternest resolution to resist. With every foot of new ground he +travelled over he forged a chain of sympathy which should hereafter bind +the Christian nations in bonds of love and charity to the heathen of the +African tropics. If he were able to complete this chain of love by +actual discovery, and, by a description of them, to embody such people +and nations as still live in darkness, so as to attract the good and +charitable of his own land to bestir themselves for their redemption and +salvation, this Livingstone would consider an ample reward. + +"Surely, as the sun shines on both Christian and infidel, civilised and +pagan, the day of enlightenment will come; and though the apostle of +Africa may not behold it himself, nor we younger men, nor yet our +children, the hereafter will see it, and posterity will recognise the +daring pioneer of its civilisation." + +Yes, and Stanley might have added: with his enlarged and far-seeing +mind, this it is what encourages Livingstone to persevere in his task to +do what he knows no other man can do as well. It might be far +pleasanter to tell crowded congregations at home about the wrongs of the +sons and daughters of Africa, but, with the spirit of a true apostle, he +remains among those whose wrongs it is the ardent desire of his soul to +right, that he may win their love and confidence, and open up the way by +which others may with greater ease continue the task he has commenced. + +After they had been some weeks together at Ujiji, Stanley and +Livingstone agreed to make a voyage on Lake Tanganyika, one of the chief +objects of which was to settle the long mooted point as to whether the +Rusizi river is an effluent or an influent. They embarked in a somewhat +cranky canoe, hollowed-out of a mvule-tree, which carried sixteen +rowers, Selim, Ferajji, the cook, and two guides, besides themselves. + +The lake was calm, its waters of a dark green colour, reflecting the +serene blue sky above. The hippopotami came up to breathe in close +proximity to the canoe, and then plunged down again, as if playing at +hide and seek with them. + +At one place where they sounded, the depth was found to be thirty-five +fathoms near the shore, and further out a hundred and fifteen fathoms of +line was let down without finding bottom, and the doctor stated that he +had sounded opposite the lofty Kabogo, and attained the depth of three +hundred fathoms. + +A range of hills, beautifully wooded and clothed with green grass, +sloping abruptly--almost precipitately--into the depth of the +fresh-water, towered above them, and as they rounded the several capes +or points, high expectations of some new wonder or some exquisite +picture being revealed to them were aroused: nor were they disappointed. + +However, we must not venture to attempt a description of the magnificent +scenery of this enormous lake. Each night they landed and encamped, +continuing their voyage the next day. + +Generally they were well received by the natives, though they had to +avoid one or two spots where the people were said to be treacherous and +quarrelsome. + +On reaching the mouth of the Rusizi, they pushed up it a short distance, +but were stopped by its shallowness, it not being navigable for anything +but the smallest canoes. It, however, abounds in crocodiles, though not +one hippopotamus was seen. + +The most important point, however, which they discovered was that the +current was flowing, at the rate of six to eight miles an hour, into the +lake. Still the doctor asserted that there must be an outlet somewhere +to the Tanganyika, from the fact which he adduced that all fresh-water +lakes have outlets. + +Coasting round the north shore, they paddled down the west coast till +nearly opposite the island of Muzimu, when they crossed back to the +shore from whence they had come, and steered southward beyond Ujiji till +they reached nearly the sixth degree of latitude, at a place called +Urimba. + +Their voyage, altogether, took twenty-eight days, during which time they +traversed over three hundred miles of water. + +On their return to Ujiji, they resolved to carry out one of the several +plans which Stanley had suggested to Livingstone. One of them was to +return to Unyanyembe to enlist men to sail down the Victoria Nyanza in +Stanley's boats, for the purpose of meeting Sir Samuel Baker; but this, +with several others, was dismissed. Livingstone's heart was set on +endeavouring to settle numerous important points in Manyema connected +with the supposed source of the Nile. He, therefore, finally agreed to +allow Stanley to escort him to Unyanyembe, where he could receive his +own goods and those which Stanley proposed to deliver up to him, and +where he could rest in a comfortable house, while his friend would hurry +down to the coast, and organise a new expedition, composed of fifty or +sixty men, well-armed, by whom an additional supply of needful luxuries +might be sent. + +Christmas Day was kept with such a feast as Ujiji could furnish them, +the fever from which Stanley had lately been suffering having left him +the night before. + +On the 27th of December they embarked in two canoes, the one bearing the +flag of England, the other that of America; and their luggage being on +board, and having bidden farewell to Arabs and natives, together they +commenced their voyage on the lake, steering for the south. At the same +time the main body of their men, under Asmani and Bombay, commenced +their journey, which was to be performed on foot, along the shores of +the lake. It had been arranged that the canoes should meet them at the +mouth of every river, to transport them across from bank to bank. Their +intention was to land at Cape Tongwe, when they would be opposite the +village of Itaga, whence, by traversing the uninhabited districts to the +east, they would avoid the exactions of the roguish Wavinza and the +plundering Wahha, and then strike the road by which Stanley had come. +This plan was completely carried out. Stanley had procured a strong +donkey at Ujiji, that the doctor might perform the journey on its back. + +Pouring rain, however, came down during the whole journey, and it was to +their intense satisfaction that at length the two friends walked into +Stanley's old quarters, who said: "Doctor, we are at home." + +Here they were again busily employed in examining stores, and the doctor +in writing despatches and letters to his friends. + +Mirambo still held out, and probably the Arabs would not conquer him for +many months to come. + +Here the doctor resolved to remain, while Stanley went down to the coast +to enlist men and collect such further stores as were required, and to +send them back. On their arrival, Livingstone purposed returning with +them to Ujiji, and from thence crossing over into Manyema, to make +further researches in that province and Ruo; among other things, to +examine the underground habitations which he had heard of on a previous +journey. + +On the 14th of March, Stanley and Livingstone breakfasted together, and +then the order was given to raise the flag and march. Livingstone +accompanied him some way, but they had to part at last. + +The return journey was not performed without many adventures and a +considerable amount of suffering by the enterprising traveller. + +Passing the stronghold of Kisalungo, a large portion had disappeared. +The river had swept away the entire front wall and about fifty houses, +several villages having suffered disastrously, while at least a hundred +people had perished. The whole valley, once a paradise in appearance, +had been converted into a howling waste. + +Further on, a still more terrible destruction of human life and property +had occurred. It was reported that a hundred villages had been swept +away by a volume of water which had rushed over the banks of the +Ungerengeri. + +Passing a dense jungle, and wading for several miles through a swamp, on +the 6th of May the caravan was again _en route_, at a pace its leader +had never seen equalled. At sunset the town of Bagomoyo was entered. + +His first greeting was with Lieutenant Henn, who had come out as second +in command of the proposed Livingstone search and relief expedition. He +next met Mr Oswald Livingstone, the doctor's second son. The two +proposed shortly starting on their journey, having come over with no +less than a hundred and ninety loads of stores, which they would have +had no small difficulty in conveying. Two other members of the +expedition, Lieutenant Dawson, RN, and the Reverend C New, had resigned, +for reasons which Mr Stanley fully explains. He himself was not over +well pleased with some of the remarks made in the papers about himself, +some having regarded his expedition into Africa as a myth. + +"Alas!" he observes, justly, "it has been a terrible, earnest fact with +me: nothing but haul, conscientious work, privations, sickness, and +almost death." + +However, welcomed cordially by numerous friends at Zanzibar, which he +reached the following day, he soon recovered his spirits, and, having +disbanded his own expedition, he set to work to arrange the one he had +promised to form for the assistance of Dr Livingstone, Mr Henn having +in the mean time resigned, and Mr Oswald Livingstone being compelled +from ill health to abandon the attempt to join his father. + +Fifty guns, with ammunition, stores, and cloth, were furnished by Mr +Oswald Livingstone out of the English expedition. Fifty-seven men, +including twenty of those who had followed Stanley, were also engaged, +the services of Johari, chief dragoman to the American consulate, being +also obtained to conduct them across the inundated plains of the +Kinganni. + +Stanley did not perform his duty by halves. Having engaged a dhow, he +saw them all on board, and again urged them to follow the "great +master," as they called Livingstone, wherever he might lead them, and to +obey him in all things. + +"We will! we will!" they cried out. + +He then shook hands with them, and, ordering them to take up their +loads, marched them down to the beach, seeing them on board, and watched +the dhow as she sped westward on her way to Bagomoyo. + +Those who had accompanied him had been handsomely rewarded, and he +states to their credit, though Bombay and many others had at first +annoyed him greatly, that from Ujiji to the coast, they had all behaved +admirably. + +After being detained at the Seychelles for a month, Mr Stanley reached +Marseilles, _via_ Aden, when Mr Bennett, in order to fulfil Mr +Stanley's promise that he would post Dr Livingstone's letters to his +family and friends in England twenty-four hours after he had seen his +public ones published in the London journals, telegraphed two of them by +cable, at an expense of nearly two thousand pounds--"one of the most +generous acts," as he observes, "that could be conceived, after all he +had done in originating and sustaining the enterprise." + + + +CHAPTER TWENTY SEVEN. + +CONCLUSION. + +TRAVELS OF BURTON--DU CHAILLU--BAINES--ANDERSSON--GALTON--EXPEDITIONS UP +THE NIGER--DR. BAIKIE'S VOYAGE IN THE "PLEIAD"--JOURNEYS OF +MISSIONARIES, SPORTSMEN, AND OTHERS--CONCLUDING REMARKS. + +We must now bid farewell to that land of savagism, so large a portion of +which we have seen opened out to the view of the civilised world by the +gallant and enterprising men whose footsteps we have traced. We would +gladly have accompanied many others who have contributed their _quota_ +to our knowledge of the continent. Among the first stands Burton, who +ranks as a great traveller in all parts of the world, and who, besides +his trip on Lake Tanganyika, has visited Dahomy, the Cameroon Mountains, +Abeokuta, and many other places. + +We regret to have to omit the travels and wonderful adventures of Du +Chaillu through the gorilla country and other portions of tropical +Africa. + +Interesting journeys have been made by the enterprising travellers, +Andersson, the artist Baines, and Mr Galton, who, starting from +Walvisch Bay on the West Coast to the north of Cape Colony, visited the +Damaras, the Namaquas, the Bechuanas, and other tribes to the west of +Lake Ngami. + +Several expeditions also have been made to explore the Niger, and open +up commerce with the teeming population on its banks. One of the first, +sent out a few years after the return of the Landers, proved most +disastrous, the greater number of officers and men having perished from +fever. + +Another, however, which was organised in 1854 by the Government, was far +more successful. A small steamer, the "Pleiad," was fitted out with a +black crew and a few white officers, and in consequence of the death of +Mr Beecroft, who had been appointed to lead the expedition, it was +placed under the command of Dr Baikie, R.N. He proceeded up the +Quorra, the proper name of the Niger, and entering the mouth of the +Binue, known as the Tsadda, discovered by Dr Barth, steamed up that +magnificent stream till the falling waters compelled him to return. + +Numerous other expeditions have been made on the West Coast by +missionaries, for the purpose of extending the blessings of the Gospel. +Still more numerous have been the journeys, with the same object in +view, made from the southern part of Africa. + +In this direction also no small number of sportsmen, with Gordon dimming +at their head, have penetrated far into the interior, many of them +having given accounts of their exploits to the world. + +The travels of Mansfield Parkyns, and his description of life in +Abyssinia, as well as Plowden's, Stern's, and many others, are of the +deepest interest. + +We would gladly also have given an account of the travels of the +enterprising ivory-trader, Mr Petherick, who has visited many of the +districts we have gone over, as well as those on both sides of the Nile. + +They have all added to our knowledge of Africa; yet a considerable +amount of the interior remains unexplored. + +Livingstone, undoubtedly, will have solved the problem of the sources of +the Nile; but the source of the Congo is still to be discovered, unless +the expedition which started from the West Coast to the relief of +Livingstone has ere this settled the question: while Sir Samuel Baker, +when once he gets his steamers launched on the waters of the Albert +Nyanza, is not likely to stop till he has made further discoveries to +the west and south of his vast lake. + +If he is correct in his belief that the Albert Nyanza and Tanganyika are +portions of one vast lake, or united by a broad channel, a direct +highway by water exists, nine hundred miles in length, through the +interior of the continent, which cannot fail greatly to assist in the +civilisation of the teeming population in its neighbourhood. We, +however, must await the return of Sir Samuel Baker and Dr Livingstone, +to be enlightened on this and many other deeply interesting points. + +We shall rest satisfied if the work we have now brought to a conclusion +excites the interest of our readers in the numberless black races spread +over the continent, and induces them to exert all the influence they may +possess in forwarding measures for suppressing the nefarious slave trade +throughout the length and breadth of the land, and in aiding those who +go forth to carry the blessings of the Gospel to its long benighted +people. + +THE END. + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Great African Travellers, by W.H.G. 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