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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/20810-h.zip b/20810-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c71443c --- /dev/null +++ b/20810-h.zip diff --git a/20810-h/20810-h.htm b/20810-h/20810-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..fd1cda6 --- /dev/null +++ b/20810-h/20810-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,2310 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII" /> +<title>The "Ladies of Llangollen"</title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + P { margin-top: .75em; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + H1, H2 { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + } + H3, H4 { + text-align: left; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + } + BODY{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + TD { vertical-align: top; } + .blkquot {margin-left: 4em; margin-right: 4em;} /* block indent */ + + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .pagenum {position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + color: gray;} + + .citation {vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: none;} + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> +</head> +<body> +<h2> +<a href="#startoftext">The "Ladies of Llangollen", by John Hicklin</a> +</h2> +<pre> +The Project Gutenberg eBook, The "Ladies of Llangollen", by John Hicklin + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: The "Ladies of Llangollen" + as Sketched by Many Hands; with Notices of Other Objects + of Interest in "That Sweetest of Vales" + + +Author: John Hicklin + + + +Release Date: March 13, 2007 [eBook #20810] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE "LADIES OF LLANGOLLEN"*** +</pre> +<p><a name="startoftext"></a></p> +<p>Transcribed from the 1847 Thomas Catherall edition by David Price, email +ccx074@pglaf.org. We would like to thank Llangollen Library, +Denbighshire, for allowing access to the copy from which this transcription +was made.</p> +<h1>THE “LADIES OF LLANGOLLEN,”<br /> +<span class="smcap">as sketched by many hands</span>;<br /> +<span class="smcap">with notices of</span><br /> +OTHER OBJECTS OF INTEREST<br /> +<span class="smcap">in</span><br /> +“THAT SWEETEST OF VALES.”</h1> +<p style="text-align: center">BY JOHN HICKLIN,<br /> +<span class="smcap">editor of the</span> “<span class="smcap">chester +courant</span>,” <span class="smcap">author of the</span> +“<span class="smcap">history of chester cathedral</span>,” +<span class="smcap">etc. etc.</span></p> +<p style="text-align: center">CHESTER:<br /> +THOMAS CATHERALL, EASTGATE ROW;<br /> +<span class="smcap">london: whittaker & co.</span>; <span +class="smcap">ackermann & co.</span>, <span +class="smcap">strand</span>;<br /> +<span class="smcap">dublin</span>: <span class="smcap">t. +cranfield</span>.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">mdcccxlvii</span>.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><!-- page ii--><a name="pageii"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. ii</span><span class="smcap">to</span><br /> +MISS LOLLY AND MISS ANDREW,<br /> +<span class="smcap">the</span><br /> +PROPRIETORS AND OCCUPIERS OF PLAS NEWYDD.<br /> +<span class="smcap">the famed retreat of</span><br /> +“The Ladies of Llangollen,”<br /> +<span class="smcap">the following pages</span><br /> +<span class="smcap">are most respectfully inscribed</span>,<br /> +<span class="smcap">by</span><br /> +<span class="smcap">their obedient servant</span>,</p> +<p style="text-align: right">THE PUBLISHER.</p> +<h2><!-- page 1--><a name="page1"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 1</span>THE +LADIES OF LLANGOLLEN.</h2> +<p>From the early age of Cambrian history, when the peerless beauty of the +high-born Myfanwy Fechan awoke the passion and the poesy of her admiring +bard, Howel ap Einion Llygliw, down to the modern days of the more humble, +but not less renowned maiden, “Sweet Jenny Jones;” Llangollen, +“that sweetest of vales,” seems to have been associated with +recollections of tender and romantic interest. Our narrative, +however, albeit it relates to the Ladies of Llangollen, refers not to +whispered vows and moonlight serenades between gallant chiefs and damsels +of noble birth; nor to sentimental tales of love in a cottage; but it is +rather devoted to the records of a friendship, whose incidents and +eccentricities have engaged the attention of many eminent <i>literati</i> +and tourists. Most persons who take any interest in the scenery or +topography of North Wales, have either seen or read of that singular <!-- +page 2--><a name="page2"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 2</span>residence, +Plas Newydd, at Llangollen, for so many years the home of Lady Eleanor +Butler and Miss Ponsonby.</p> +<p>About the year 1778, these ladies, impelled by a desire to lead a +secluded life of celibacy, forsook the gay and fashionable circles in which +they had moved; and in their search for a fitting spot, on which to pass +their days together in devoted friendship to each other, and in acts of +benevolence and charity to their neighbours, they visited Llangollen. +Rambling along this charming locality one balmy evening, when the tranquil +beauty of the lovely valley was lighted up by the mild splendour of the +moon, their eyes rested upon a cottage that stood on a gentle eminence near +the village; and there they resolved to fix their abode. They +accordingly purchased the estate; built a new cottage on the site of the +old one, in a remarkably unique and somewhat grotesque style of +architecture; and laid out gardens, pleasure grounds, and rural walks with +grottoes, temples, conservatories, rustic bridges, and other accessories +for enjoying, in the undisturbed quiet of their own domain, the natural +charms of their picturesque retreat. Their mode of life being +singular, and their costume still more so (for they assumed a style of +head-dress resembling that of men, and always wore long cloth coats, rather +like ladies’ riding habits), they soon attracted the attention of the +many travellers who passed through North Wales; and as they kept up an +extensive and active correspondence with several eminent authors <!-- page +3--><a name="page3"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 3</span>and persons of +distinction, the “Ladies of Llangollen,” for so they were +always designated, made a much greater sensation in their seclusion, than +many less remarkable persons who are constantly living in the business and +bustle of society. Hence many literary pilgrimages were made to the +recluses of Plas Newydd; and the “even tenor” of their way was +often diversified by the calls of the illustrious, the learned, and the +curious; from whom they were as willing to learn what was passing in +politics, literature, and general gossip, as were their visitors desirous +of having a peep within the charmed circle of this mountain solitude. +Their motive for adopting this romantic seclusion is thus stated in +“Steward’s Collections and Recollections:”—</p> +<blockquote> +<p>“Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby were young ladies of beauty +and rank, who loved each other with so true an affection, that they could +never bear the afflicting idea of a separation, which the marriage of +either might occasion. They therefore resolved on lives of celibacy, +and refusing many handsome offers, and remaining deaf to the persuasions of +their friends, they retired to the beautiful Yale of Llangollen, to enjoy +the happiness of each other’s company, that as their friendship began +in infancy, it might be perpetuated through life. The traveller, in +passing by the celebrated abode of these interesting women, must +contemplate with a sigh that excessive friendship which could tear from the +bosom of society two of its brightest ornaments, to bury them in the depths +of seclusion:—</p> +<p><!-- page 4--><a name="page4"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +4</span>‘Full many a gem, of purest ray serene,<br /> + The dark unfathom’d caves of ocean bear;<br /> +Full many a flower is born to blush unseen,<br /> + And waste its sweetness on the desert air.’</p> +<p>“It is on this subject Miss Seward employs her poetical talents, +in her well-known poem of ‘Llangollen Vale.’—The +following is an account of these celebrated ladies, extracted from a +periodical work published in the year 1796. ‘Miss Butler and +Miss Ponsonby are now retired from the society of men into the wilds (!) of +Llangollen in Wales, where they have resided seventeen years. Miss +Butler is of the Ormond family, and had five offers of marriage, all of +which she rejected. As Miss Ponsonby, her particular friend and +companion, was supposed to have been the bar to her matrimonial union, it +was thought proper to separate them, and Miss Butler was confined. +The two ladies, however, found means to elope together, but being soon +overtaken, were brought back to their respective relations. Many +attempts were again made to draw Miss Butler into marriage, though in vain; +not many weeks after, the ladies eloped again, each having a small sum with +her. The place of their retreat was confided to a female servant of +the house. Here they lived many years, unknown to any of the +neighbouring villagers, otherwise than by the appellation of the +‘Ladies of the Vale.’ No persuasions could ever get them +from this retreat. A lady from Ireland told the collector of these +articles the following anecdote relative to these female friends:—An +<!-- page 5--><a name="page5"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 5</span>Irish +nobleman (Lord Fingal) happening to be travelling in the neighbourhood of +Llangollen Vale, and having heard much of Lady E. Butler and Miss Ponsonby, +felt a desire to see and converse with them. But how he could obtain +this pleasure (as the ladies seldom or never saw company, and were fond of +a recluse life) was the question. At length he bethought himself of a +method the most likely to answer the purpose, without the appearance of +forwardness or indelicacy. He sent his servant with the following +verbal message:—‘Lord Fingal, travelling in this neighbourhood, +sends his respectful compliments to Miss Butler and Miss Ponsonby, and +informs them that he sets out to-morrow morning for Ireland, and would be +happy to be the bearer of any commands of theirs to that +country.’ This message had the effect which his lordship +desired. He received, in return, a kind and friendly invitation to +take tea with the ladies, which he, of course, accepted with much +pleasure.—Lord Fingal (the collector’s informant added) was +peculiarly charmed with the amiable behaviour of these interesting +enthusiasts of friendship. He found not in them the gravity, +formality, and demureness of virgin recluses, but the ease of liveliness, +and animated conversation of happy, cultivated, and polished +minds.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>On June 2, 1829, death severed the faithful friendship which had existed +for so many years between the eccentric residents at Plas Newydd, by +removing from this earthly scene Lady Eleanor <!-- page 6--><a +name="page6"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 6</span>Butler, who had attained +the advanced age of 90; and in December 9, 1831, Miss Ponsonby, who was +seldom seen (except by her domestics) after the decease of her attached +companion, was called to her “long home.” They are both +buried in the church-yard of Llangollen, where a stone monument is erected +to their memory. On this record of mortality are inserted the +following memorials:—</p> +<blockquote> +<p style="text-align: center">Sacred to the Memory of<br /> +<i>The Right Honourable</i><br /> +LADY ELEANOR CHARLOTTE BUTLER,<br /> +Late of Plâs Newydd in this Parish.<br /> +<i>Deceased</i> 2<i>nd June</i>, 1829,<br /> +Aged 90 Years.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><i>Daughter of the Sixteenth</i>, <i>Sister +of the Seventeenth</i><br /> +<i>EARLS OF ORMONDE AND OSSORY</i>.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">Aunt to the late, and to the present<br /> +MARQUESS OF ORMONDE.</p> +<p><i>Endeared to her friends by an almost unequalled excellence of +heart</i>, <i>and by manners worthy of her illustrious birth</i>, <i>the +admiration and delight of a very numerous acquaintance from a brilliant +vivacity of mind undiminished to the latest period of a prolonged +existence</i>. <i>Her amiable condescension & benevolence secured +the grateful attachment of those by whom they had been so long and so +extensively experienced</i>. <i>Her various perfections crowned by +the most pious and cheerful submission to the Divine Will</i>, <i>can only +be appreciated</i>, <i>where it is humbly believed</i>, <i>they are</i> now +<i>enjoying their Eternal Reward</i>, <i>and by her of whom for more than +fifty years</i>, <i>they constituted that happiness</i>, <i>which through +our Blessed Redeemer</i>, <i>she trusts will be renewed</i> when THIS TOMB +<i>shall have closed over its latest tenant</i>.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">“Sorrow not as others who have no +hope.”</p> +<p style="text-align: right">1 <i>Thess.</i> <i>Chap.</i> 4. <i>v.</i> +13.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><!-- page 7--><a name="page7"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 7</span>SARAH PONSONBY<br /> +departed this Life<br /> +on the 9th December, 1831, Aged 76.</p> +<p><i>She did not long survive her beloved Companion LADY ELEANOR +BUTLER</i>, <i>with whom she had lived in this valley for more than half a +century of uninterrupted friendship</i>. “<i>But they shall no +more return to their House</i>, <i>neither shall their place know them any +more</i>.” <i>Job</i>, <i>Chap.</i> 7. <i>v.</i> 10.</p> +<p><i>Reader pause for a moment and reflect not on the uncertainty of human +life but upon the certainty of its termination</i>, <i>and take comfort +from the assurance that</i> “<i>As it is appointed unto men once to +die</i>, <i>but after this the judgment</i>: <i>so Christ was once offered +to bear the sins of many</i>; <i>and unto them that look for Him</i>, +<i>shall He appear the second time without sin unto +salvation</i>.” <i>Heb.</i> <i>Chap.</i> 9. <i>v.</i> 27, +28.</p> +</blockquote> +<p>On the same tombstone is also the following inscription, to the memory +of a faithful servant, who accompanied “the Ladies” from +Ireland, the country of their nativity.</p> +<blockquote> +<p style="text-align: center">In Memory of<br /> +MRS. MARY CARRYL,<br /> +<i>Deceased 22 November</i>, 1809.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">This Monument is erected by Eleanor Butler +and Sarah<br /> +Ponsonby of Plas Newydd in this Parish.</p> +<p><i>Released from Earth and all its transient woes</i>,<br /> +<i>She whose remains beneath this Stone repose</i>,<br /> +<i>Steadfast in faith resigned her parting breath</i>,<br /> +<i>Looked up with Christian joy and smiled in death</i>.<br /> +<i>Patient</i>, <i>Industrious</i>, <i>Faithful</i>, <i>Generous</i>, +<i>Kind</i>,<br /> +<i>Her Conduct left the proudest far behind</i>;<i><br /> +Her Virtues dignified her humble birth</i>,<br /> +<i>And raised her mind above this sordid earth</i>.<br /> +<i>Attachment</i> (<i>Sacred bond of grateful breasts</i>)<i><br /> +Extinguished but with life</i>, <i>this Tomb attests</i>,<br /> +<i>Reared by Two Friends who will her loss bemoan</i>,<br /> +<i>Till with her ashes</i>—<i>Here shall rest their own</i>.</p> +</blockquote> +<p><!-- page 8--><a name="page8"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 8</span>In +1832, the home of “the Ladies of Llangollen” was sold by +auction, by the late renowned “knight of the hammer,” Mr. +George Robins, who put forth the following advertisement, in his +characteristic style of decorative description.</p> +<blockquote> +<p style="text-align: center">“IN NORTH WALES.<br /> +* * * * *<br /> +Particulars and Conditions of Sale<br /> +<span class="smcap">of the</span><br /> +LADY ELEANOR BUTLER AND MISS<br /> +PONSONBY’S<br /> +LITTLE PARADISE<br /> +AT LLANGOLLEN,<br /> +Of which a more enlarged description will appear<br /> +on the other side.<br /> +IT IS ALL FREEHOLD,<br /> +And it need hardly be remarked that it is in the<br /> +most favoured Spot in<br /> +NORTH WALES;<br /> +Which will be Sold by Auction<br /> +<span class="smcap">by</span><br /> +* * * * *<br /> +<span class="smcap">Mr.</span> GEORGE ROBINS,<br /> +* * * * *<br /> +<span class="smcap">at the auction mart</span>, <span +class="smcap">london</span>,<br /> +On THURSDAY, <span class="smcap">June</span> 28, 1832, at Twelve +o’Clock,<br /> +<span class="smcap">in one lot</span>,<br /> +BY DIRECTION OF THE EXECUTORS.</p> +</blockquote> +<p><!-- page 9--><a name="page9"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 9</span>May +be viewed only with Tickets, and Particulars had Twenty-one Days prior to +the Sale at the Lion Hotel, Shrewsbury; the Inns at Llangollen, and Corwen; +the Great Hotel, Bangor; Waterloo, Liverpool; York House, Bath; and at Mr. +GEORGE ROBINS’s Offices, London.</p> +<p>N.B. The appropriate Furniture, Service of Plate, Elegancies of +the Chateau, extensive Library of Books, and all the valuable Appendages, +will be submitted to Public Competition the latter End of the Month of +July, by Direction of the Executors.</p> +<h3>PARTICULARS, &c.</h3> +<p>Mr. ROBINS is not a little proud that it hath been his good fortune to +be selected by the Executors of the Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby +to direct the sale of their far-famed Domicile. He feels that an +apology will be due to all those who are familiar with its beauties and +peculiarities, for the very imperfect recital which follows, while those +who are yet to be gratified with the sight of it, may imagine he has drawn +some little upon “Fancy’s sketch.” There is nothing +of pretension in its outward form, it indicates but moderately the comfort +that presides within, inasmuch as will be found congregated all the +<i>agremens</i> pertaining to more consequential habitations. +Considerable tact is conspicuous everywhere; but none more unequivocally +displayed than in the lightsome little Dining Room, contrasted with the +gloomy, yet superior grace of the Library, <!-- page 10--><a +name="page10"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 10</span>into which it +opens. This room is fitted up in the Gothic style, the Windows are of +ancient painted glass “<i>shedding their dim religious +light</i>.”</p> +<h4>THE SALOON OF THE MINERVAS</h4> +<p>Is the repository of the choice Library. The auxiliary Offices are +very commensurate, the grounds are disposed in such good order as is the +natural consequence of pure taste, the Kitchen Garden is neatness itself, +and the Fruit trees are of the rarest and finest sort, and luxuriant in +their produce. Many and shaded</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">gravel walks encircle +this elysium</span>,</p> +<p>Which is adorned with curious and rare Shrubs and Flowers. It is +nothing in extent but</p> +<p style="text-align: center">EVERYTHING IN GRACE AND BEAUTY,</p> +<p>United with a great variety of foliage. Upon the Freehold is a +considerable quantity of valuable Timber which overhangs</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">a deep and hollow +glen</span>;</p> +<p>In its entangled bottom, a frothing brook leaps and clamours o’er +the rough stones in its channel towards</p> +<p style="text-align: center">THE VALE OF LLANGOLLEN.</p> +<p>To speak of the latter would be quite superfluous, few, if any, are +unacquainted with the wildness and surpassing beauty of the most admired +spot in North Wales. Its contiguity to the little romantic village, +giving the opportunity either to indulge in <!-- page 11--><a +name="page11"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 11</span>the gaiety of this +place, or recreate in retirement, (as shall seem best suited to varied +inclination), there are fortunately both auxiliaries to this scene (it had +almost been said of enchantment). The verdant Lawns, dotted with rare +plants, the scenic beauties, and the woodland scenery combined, plead in +extenuation of this lofty tone. The whole is encompassed by rich +meadows, wearing a park-like appearance; held with the freehold, which is +limited to less than Five Acres. A truly beautiful Portico of carved +Oak leads to this</p> +<h4>DOMICILE OF COMFORT.</h4> +<p>The whole lower Story of which, on the outside, is covered with the +richest carved Oak, and within which will be found a Dining Room 15 feet by +15, with handsome Chimney Piece, and carved Oak Doors and Wainscoting.</p> +<p>A Library, 13 feet by 14 feet 6 inches, with Three Gothic Windows of +carved Oak and splendid stained Glass, exhibiting old Armorial Bearings, +and forming a Bow Window, handsome Chimney Piece of yellow and white +marble, and Recesses fitted up with Gothic Book Cases, and the Doors and +Architrave of old carved Oak.</p> +<p>An admirably constructed Kitchen, carved Oak Doors and Window Facia, a +very handsome carved Oak Screen and Seat, Grate Ovens, Hearths, Stew Holes, +&c.</p> +<p>A Housekeeper’s Room, beautifully fitted up with carved Oak +Presses, Oak Doors and Window Frames.</p> +<p><!-- page 12--><a name="page12"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 12</span>A +large Larder with fixed Tables, Hooks, &c. together with an ample +Cellar, both so situated as to be perfectly cool in the hottest +weather.</p> +<p>Wash-house, Scullery, Coal-house, &c., a Staircase of carved Oak, +Walls and Ceilings of the same beautifully ornamented Gothic +Architecture. This is one of the most beautiful things that can be +conceived.</p> +<h4>FIRST FLOOR.</h4> +<p>An excellent Bed Room, fixed Book Shelves and carved Oak Door, Chimney +Piece and Window Facia, an excellent best Bed Room, Oak Doors, fancy +Cornice, and cross Ceiling Beams of carved Oak, a very handsome Chimney +Piece of the same.</p> +<p>A light Dressing Room and Closet, Gothic carved Oak Doors, &c. +fitted up with Book Shelves. Over the Staircase a commodious Pantry, +Shelves and Presses for China and Plate, Oak Doors of carved open +work. The Sashes of the Windows are all Metal.</p> +<h4>ATTIC STORY.</h4> +<p>Two good Servants’ Rooms, and a Store Room. The Premises +consist of</p> +<h4>FOUR GARDENS</h4> +<p>In the best order, and well stocked with all kinds of Fruit Trees, +Vegetables, and Flowers.</p> +<h4>FIVE PASTURE FIELDS</h4> +<p>Of the richest Land, well timbered, Rustic Bridges, Summer Houses of +richly carved Oak, and Rustic <!-- page 13--><a name="page13"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 13</span>Seats, Cow and Calf-house, Garden-house, Yard, +Store-house, &c. An excellent Engine Pump.</p> +<p>This celebrated Place was the Property, and for more than half a Century +the Residence of the late <span class="smcap">Lady</span> ELEANOR BUTLER +<span class="smcap">and Miss</span> PONSONBY. It is situated upon a +Piece of rich Table Land, just above the Port and Market-town of +Llangollen, and commands a View of the Valley of the Dee, both up and down, +is close to Valle Crucis, Dinas Brân, and many of the most beautiful +Scenes in Wales. The Taxes are very light.</p> +<h4>CONTENTS OF THE FREEHOLD PART OF THE ESTATE.</h4> +<table> +<tr> +<td> +<p></p> +</td> +<td> +<p>A.</p> +</td> +<td> +<p>R.</p> +</td> +<td> +<p>P.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td> +<p>House, Offices, and Shrubbery</p> +</td> +<td> +<p>0</p> +</td> +<td> +<p>3</p> +</td> +<td> +<p>14</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td> +<p>Flower Garden</p> +</td> +<td> +<p>0</p> +</td> +<td> +<p>0</p> +</td> +<td> +<p>27</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td> +<p>Garden House, Court and Poultry ditto</p> +</td> +<td> +<p>0</p> +</td> +<td> +<p>0</p> +</td> +<td> +<p>12</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td> +<p>Part of Lawn</p> +</td> +<td> +<p>0</p> +</td> +<td> +<p>3</p> +</td> +<td> +<p>8</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td> +<p>Nursery</p> +</td> +<td> +<p>0</p> +</td> +<td> +<p>0</p> +</td> +<td> +<p>20</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td> +<p>Field</p> +</td> +<td> +<p>2</p> +</td> +<td> +<p>0</p> +</td> +<td> +<p>12</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td> +<p>Total</p> +</td> +<td> +<p>4</p> +</td> +<td> +<p>0</p> +</td> +<td> +<p>13</p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>THE LANDS CONTIGUOUS ARE AS FOLLOWS:</h4> +<p>1<span class="smcap">a.</span> 1<span class="smcap">r.</span> 20<span +class="smcap">p.</span> part of Lawn; and 3<span class="smcap">r.</span> +26<span class="smcap">p.</span> of Gardens and Shrubbery, held from year to +year, from Ousley Gore, Esq., at a rent of £</p> +<p>3<span class="smcap">r.</span> 13<span class="smcap">p.</span> part of +Lawn and Flower Garden, held in same manner from Hon. F. West, at a rent of +£</p> +<p>4<span class="smcap">a.</span> 1<span class="smcap">r.</span> 30<span +class="smcap">p.</span> being two Fields, the Glen, and a <!-- page 14--><a +name="page14"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 14</span>Kitchen Garden, from +Hon. Mr. Mostyn, yearly at a rent of £</p> +<p>1<span class="smcap">a.</span> 2<span class="smcap">r.</span> 16<span +class="smcap">p.</span> a Field from J. Dicken, Esq. at a yearly rent of +£</p> +<p>TOTAL QUANTITY, 13 ACRES 38 PERCHES.”</p> +<p style="text-align: center">* * * * *</p> +<p>The exaggerated style of this ornate announcement will, doubtless, +excite a smile, and we suspect that some of our readers, who know the +locality, will laugh outright at the very fanciful stretch of imagination, +which led the worthy auctioneer to speak of the “<i>Port</i> of +Llangollen.”</p> +<p>The purchasers of the property were Miss Lolly and Miss Andrew, the +present owners and occupiers of Plas Newydd, between whom and the late +“Ladies of Llangollen,” an intimate friendship existed.</p> +<p>In August 1832, Mr. Robins offered by public auction the furniture and +fittings of this unique villa; the following is a copy of the +advertisement, and the catalogue of the sale extended over seventy quarto +pages.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">* * * * *</p> +<p style="text-align: center">“LLANGOLLEN, NORTH WALES.<br /> +<span class="smcap">Mr.</span> GEORGE ROBINS</p> +<p>Has the pleasure most respectfully to announce to the Nobility, Lovers +of the Fine Arts, and those who delight in objects of interest, and indeed +to the Public generally, that having sold “<span class="smcap">Plas +Newydd</span>,” he is instructed by the Executors of</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><!-- page 15--><a name="page15"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 15</span>THE LADY ELEANOR BUTLER<br /> +<span class="smcap">and</span><br /> +MISS PONSONBY,</p> +<p>To offer for <span class="smcap">Unreserved Competition</span>, at the +Domicile so long hallowed as the abode of friendship,</p> +<p>On MONDAY, the 13th day of AUGUST, 1832,<br /> +And many succeeding Days, at Eleven for Twelve<br /> +o’clock precisely, on each day,</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">the following</span><br +/> +INTERESTING AND VALUABLE PROPERTY,<br /> +<span class="smcap">appertaining to the residence</span>,</p> +<p>And which for extent, variety and novelty, forms a most brilliant +Assemblage, certainly unexampled in the Annals of Auctions; it having been +congregated by those highly talented Ladies, the fair “<span +class="smcap">Mistresses of Plas Newydd</span>,” during a series of +50 years, aided by their joint taste, and at considerable expense, +including the appropriate</p> +<p style="text-align: center">FURNITURE OF THE CHATEAU,</p> +<p>Comprising a Drawing Room suite in curtains, glasses, centre, card, and +occasional tables; ottomans, sofas, couches, chairs of various +descriptions, yet in unison, whatnots, cheffioneers; the dining room is +very complete; there are excellent dining tables, chairs, sideboard, +writing tables and library chairs.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">A RANGE OF BOOKCASES & MANY OBJECTS,<br +/> +<span class="smcap">elaborately carved in oak</span>;<br /> +<!-- page 16--><a name="page16"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 16</span>A +STRONG BOX OF GREAT ANTIQUITY, AND<br /> +CARVED,</p> +<p style="text-align: center">It was once the Property of his late Royal +Highness</p> +<p style="text-align: center">THE DUKE OF YORK.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">The Furniture of the Bed Chambers and Offices +is of a corresponding character;</p> +<p style="text-align: center">EXCELLENT TABLE AND BED LINEN,</p> +<p style="text-align: center">The equipments of the Garden are of a very +superior description;<br /> +<span class="smcap">a variety of seats</span>, <span class="smcap">curious +etruscan flower vases</span>, <span class="smcap">garden implements</span>, +<span class="smcap">etc.</span></p> +<p style="text-align: center">A GREEN HOUSE OF GREAT BEAUTY,<br /> +<span class="smcap">ornamented with painted and stained glass</span>;</p> +<p style="text-align: center">An extensive Collection of Plants, Dairy and +Brewing Utensils;<br /> +SERVICES OF CHINA AND GLASS,<br /> +In complete sets, for the Table, the Dejeuné, the Dessert, &c. +&c.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">SIDEBOARD OF PLATE,</p> +<p style="text-align: center">Comprising many rare chased and antique +items; dishes and covers, salvers, waiters, tea and coffee equipages, +candlesticks, liquor and cruet frames, spoons and forks;</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">and a variety of useful +articles for the sideboard and table</span>.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">JEWELLERY AND ELEGANCIES,</p> +<p style="text-align: center">Presenting many pleasing and valuable +Ornaments <!-- page 17--><a name="page17"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +17</span>for the person, in necklaces, car-rings, crosses and brooches, +most of them inclosing the hair of the donors, particularly one of great +interest, possessing</p> +<p style="text-align: center">A LOCK OF “MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS” +HAIR.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">interesting +miscellanies</span>, <span class="smcap">curiosities and relics</span>, +<span class="smcap">viz.</span></p> +<p>Very fine missals, beautifully illuminated; autographs of numerous +renowned personages, particularly a letter by “Charles the +First” to Lady Fisher, from Whitehall, during his confinement; +presentation snuff boxes, many of value, and most with lines of dedication; +relics of great antiquity, and many of modern date, presented by +travellers, forming altogether a Museum of great interest and +amusement.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">several remarkably fine +cameos and intaglios</span>.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">A MODEL OF THE WARWICK VASE, IN SILVER,</p> +<p style="text-align: center">Richly Chased, most exquisite in Workmanship +and perfectly Unique.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">Many curious models, bronze busts, and in +Sevres bisquit; <span class="smcap">Musical and other elegant +Clocks</span>, in ormolu; China essence, and flower vases; a large +Æolian harp, telescopes, microscopes, &c.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">AN EXTENSIVE AND VALUABLE LIBRARY OF +BOOKS,</p> +<p style="text-align: center">Comprising many Thousand Volumes, elegantly +bound in folio, quarto, and octavo, (large and small.)</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><!-- page 18--><a name="page18"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 18</span>A SERIES OF ETCHINGS.<br /> +THE POWER AND PROGRESS OF GENIUS,<br /> +<span class="smcap">executed by</span><br /> +THE PRINCESS ELIZABETH,<br /> +<span class="smcap">and presented by her</span><br /> +TO THE PRINCESS AMELIA;</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">an autograph letter +from</span><br /> +THE PRESENT KING OF FRANCE,</p> +<p style="text-align: center">Accompanying the Memoirs du Duc de +Montressor, in scarlet and morocco, a present from His Majesty to Lady +Butler and Miss Ponsonby; with many other contributions and valuable +presents from persons of the highest rank and literary acquirements to +these highly gifted Ladies.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">PICTURES, VALUABLE DRAWINGS, AND PRINTS,</p> +<p style="text-align: center">In frames and in portfolios, comprising a +collection the most choice and valuable, many by the first Artists of the +day, Portraits of Kings, exalted and renowned Characters, and Views of the +most celebrated Scenery of various Countries. A small quantity of</p> +<p style="text-align: center">RARE WINES AND LIQUEURS;</p> +<p>Viz., Old Port, Sherry, Madeira, Lisbon, Bucellas, Vidonia, Maraschino, +Noyeau, Eau de la Reine, and other estimable Liqueurs.</p> +<p>*** The entire Sale will be on View at the Chateau from the 4th to the +13th of August.</p> +<p>The CATALOGUES will be ready Three Weeks <!-- page 19--><a +name="page19"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 19</span>prior to the Sale; and +may be had at 3s. each, at the Villa; Phillips’s Hotel, and the +King’s Head, Llangollen; the Lion, Shrewsbury; the Owen Glendower, +Corwen; the Great Hotel, at Bangor; the Waterloo Hotel, Liverpool; the Hen +and Chickens, Birmingham; York Hotel, Bath; of Mr. Guernon, +Molesworth-street, Dublin, and at Mr. <span class="smcap">George +Robins’</span> Offices, Covent Garden.”</p> +<p style="text-align: center">* * * * *</p> +<p>The present occupiers were also purchasers of many of the rare +“curiosities and relics.”</p> +<p>We shall now proceed to cite the descriptions which have been put upon +record by several distinguished and popular authors, relative to the +“Ladies of Llangollen.”</p> +<p>It appears from Volume VI. of the published Letters of the late Miss +Anna Seward, that a friendly intimacy was cultivated between that clever +<i>literateur</i> and the recluses of Plas Newydd; and it would seem from +her correspondence, that their tastes were very comprehensive and +multifarious; poetry and politics, music and mystery, tragedy and tattle, +being alike acceptable. In a letter addressed to Lady Eleanor Butler +and Miss Ponsonby, under date Lichfield, October 4, 1802, Miss Seward +exclaims:—</p> +<blockquote> +<p>“Ah! dearest ladies, it is under the pressure of a severe cold, +fierce cough, and inflamed lungs, that I address you. A duty so +delightful had, but for this incapacitating malady, been earlier paid.</p> +<p>“I have to thank dear Miss Ponsonby for a manuscript <!-- page +20--><a name="page20"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 20</span>of many verses, +which she had the goodness to make for me in hours so engrossed, amid +engagements so indispensable. I had the honour to receive it as I was +stepping into the chaise which was to convey Mrs. Smith and myself far from +that Edenic region where we had recently passed so many happy hours; from +those bowers in Llangollen Vale, whence the purest pleasures have so often +flowed to my heart and mind, as from a full and overflowing +fountain.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>From Lichfield, Nov. 9, 1802, Miss Seward discourses to Miss Ponsonby on +modern tragedy, and concludes with the following bit of +“blue-stocking gossip:”—</p> +<blockquote> +<p>“Though I know her not, I am pleased that Mrs. Spencer has had the +good fortune to interest and delight you; for I am always desirous that men +of genius should not do what they are so prone to do, marry every-day +women.</p> +<p>“Naughty brook, for having behaved outrageously again! That +little stream of the mountain is a true spoiled child, whom we love the +better for its faults, and for all the trouble and alarm they +occasion. You see I presume to involve myself, as if, in some sort, +the interesting little virago belonged to me. Certainly it is my +peculiar pet amongst your scenic children, dear to my taste, as they are +beautiful; to my heart as being yours.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>In a letter from Lichfield, June 13, 1805, Miss Seward +begins:—</p> +<blockquote> +<p>“‘With a trembling hand, my beloved Miss Ponsonby, <!-- page +21--><a name="page21"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 21</span>do I take up +the pen to thank you for a thrice kind letter. It had not remained +several weeks unacknowledged, but for this terrible malady of the head, +which has oppressed me with so much severity during the interim. I +think it must soon lay me low. Not at my time of life does the +constitution, pushed from its equipoise by long enduring disease, regain it +amid the struggles.</p> +<p>“Immediately on receiving your last, I sent for Madoc; by far the +most captivating work of its genuinely inspired author.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>In the same letter the following passage occurs:—</p> +<blockquote> +<p>“Our young friend Cary has published his translation of +Dante’s Inferno. It is thought the best which has appeared, and +the sale goes on well. He presents a copy to yourself and Lady +Eleanor, and I trust you will receive it soon.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>After some literary disquisitions on the Inferno, the Lay of the Last +Minstrel, and Madoc; and an allusion to King George’s visit to +Lichfield, the letter thus concludes:—</p> +<blockquote> +<p>“Present me devoutly to your beloved Lady Eleanor. Most +interesting is your description of that visit, mutually paid to that +desolate and silent Dinbren. How worthy of yourselves that hour of +consecration, with all its tributary sighs! Too happy were the days +and weeks which I passed beneath its roof, and in its beautiful and sublime +environs, to permit such revisitation from me.</p> +<p>“It would break my heart amid its present consciousness, <!-- page +22--><a name="page22"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 22</span>spread over +with a dark and impervious pall, which can never be drawn away.</p> +<p>“Dear, and amiable Miss Ponsonby, farewell.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>From Lichfield, October 31st, 1805, we have another letter to Miss +Ponsonby, with the following tremendous opening:—</p> +<blockquote> +<p>“Nothing, my dear Madam, is so common as hypocrisy and treachery +where property is concerned; but a greater excess of them never poured +their dark currents from the vulgar heart, than in those circumstances +which your last letter narrates.</p> +<p>“Thus ever be extortionate villany baffled—and long +unclouded be the peace which succeeds to that attempted injury. I +cannot express how much I am obliged that you took the kind trouble of +retracing the road of peril, which had so nearly engulfed a scene, whose +beauties rise perpetually in my sleeping and waking dreams.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>What ever could have happened at Plas Newydd to excite so grand a burst +of tragic passion: here <i>is</i> matter for curious speculation! +Then Miss Seward runs into a not very wise dissertation on politics; then +reverts to literary subjects, of which Horace Walpole’s genius is the +chief topic; bemoans her own dizziness of the head; has another touch at +Mr. Pitt; and finally ejaculates “Adieu, dearest Madam! Your +beloved Lady Eleanor will accept my affectionate devoirs!” Why +did not Miss Seward go to Llangollen, to end her days in peace?</p> +<p><!-- page 23--><a name="page23"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 23</span>In +the lively Memoirs of that celebrated Comedian, the late Mr. Charles +Matthews, we have the following humourous letters, descriptive of the +“Ladies of Llangollen:”—</p> +<blockquote> +<p style="text-align: right">“Oswestry, Sept. 4th. 1820.</p> +<p>“The dear inseparable inimitables, Lady Butler and Miss Ponsonby, +were in the boxes here on Friday. They came twelve miles from +Llangollen, and returned, as they never sleep from home. Oh, such +curiosities! I was nearly convulsed. I could scarcely get on +for the first ten minutes after my eye caught them. Though I had +never seen them, I instantaneously knew them. As they are seated, +there is not one point to distinguish them from men: the dressing and +powdering of the hair; their well-starched neckcloths; the upper part of +their habits, which they always wear, even at a dinner-party, made +precisely like men’s coats; and regular black beaver men’s +hats. They looked exactly like two respectable superannuated old +clergymen; one the picture of Boruwlaski. I was highly flattered, as +they never were in the theatre before.</p> +<p>“The packets now sail at seven in the morning; all <i>day</i>-work +instead of night, which is delightful; and the weather is heavenly. +People are here extremely hospitable; but, of all days in the year, Mr. +Ormsby Gore went to Carnarvon assizes (being high sheriff) the day before I +arrived. He only returned yesterday; and almost forced me away from +the inn. I, however, could not conveniently <!-- page 24--><a +name="page24"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 24</span>go there, but have been +to call this morning. Such a place!</p> +<p>“By the by, have you any magnolias in the grounds? if not, get me +one or two. I saw a Portugal laurel, only four years old, full half +the size of that great beauty at Lord Mansfield’s; pray have one or +two of them placed by themselves on our new lawn.</p> +<p>“I have to-day received an invitation to call, if I have time as I +pass, at Llangollen, to receive in due form, from the dear old gentlemen +called Lady Butler and Miss Ponsonby, their thanks for the entertainment I +afforded them at the theatre.”</p> +<p style="text-align: right">“Porkington, Oct. 24th.</p> +<p>“Well, I have seen them, heard them, touched them. The pets, +“<i>the ladies</i>,” as they are called, dined here +yesterday—Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby, the curiosities of +Llangollen mentioned by Miss Seward in her letters, about the year +1760. I mentioned to you in a former letter the effect they produced +upon me in public, but never shall I forget the first burst yesterday upon +entering the drawing-room: to find the dear antediluvian darlings, attired +for dinner in the same manified dress, with the Croix de St. Louis, and +other orders, and myriads of large brooches, with stones large enough for +snuff-boxes, stuck in their starched neckcloths! I have not room to +describe their most fascinating persons. I have an invitation from +them, which I much fear I cannot accept. They <!-- page 25--><a +name="page25"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 25</span>returned home last +night, fourteen miles, after twelve o’clock. They have not +slept one night from home for above forty years. I longed to put Lady +Eleanor under a bell-glass, and bring her to Highgate for you to look +at.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>In August 1825, Sir Walter Scott visited Llangollen, and the account of +his interview with the famed “ladies of the vale,” is given +with much humour and smartness by Mr. Lockhart, in his interesting Memoirs +of the immortal “Author of Waverley.”—</p> +<blockquote> +<p>“Our progress through North Wales produced nothing worth +recording, except perhaps the feeling of delight which everything in the +aspect of the common people, their dress, their houses, their gardens, and +their husbandry, could not fail to call up in persons who had just been +seeing Ireland for the first time; and a short visit (which was, indeed, +the only one he made) to the far-famed “ladies” of +Llangollen. They had received some hint that Sir Walter meant to pass +their way; and on stopping at the inn, he received an invitation so +pressing, to add one more to the long list of the illustrious visitors of +their retreat, that it was impossible for him not to comply. We had +read histories and descriptions enough of these romantic spinsters, and +were prepared to be well amused; but the reality surpassed all +expectation.</p> +<p>“An extract from a gossiping letter of the following week will +perhaps be sufficient for Llangollen.</p> +<p style="text-align: right"><!-- page 26--><a name="page26"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 26</span>“‘Elleray, August 24.</p> +<p>* * * “‘We slept on Wednesday evening at Capel Curig, which +Sir W. supposes to mean the Chapel of the Crags; a pretty little inn in a +most picturesque situation certainly, and as to the matter of toasted +cheese, quite exquisite. Next day we advanced through, I verily +believe, the most perfect gem of a country eye ever saw, having almost all +the wildness of Highland backgrounds, and all the loveliness of rich +English landscape nearer us, and streams like the purest and most babbling +of our own. At Llangollen your papa was waylaid by the celebrated +‘Ladies’—viz. Lady Eleanor Butler and the Honourable Miss +Ponsonby, who having been one or both crossed in love, forswore all dreams +of matrimony in the heyday of youth, beauty, and fashion, and selected this +charming spot for the repose of their now time-honoured virginity. It +was many a day, however, before they could get implicit credit for being +the innocent friends they really were, among the people of the +neighbourhood; for their elopement from Ireland had been performed under +suspicious circumstances; and as Lady Eleanor arrived here in her natural +aspect of a pretty girl, while Miss Ponsonby had condescended to accompany +her in the garb of a smart footman in buckskin breeches, years and years +elapsed ere full justice was done to the character of their romance. <a +name="citation26"></a><a href="#footnote26" class="citation">[26]</a> +<!-- page 27--><a name="page27"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 27</span>We +proceeded up the hill, and found everything about them and their habitation +odd and extravagant beyond report. Imagine two women, one apparently +seventy, the other sixty-five, dressed in heavy blue riding habits, +enormous shoes, and men’s hats, with their petticoats so tucked up, +that at the first glance of them, fussing and tottering about their porch +in the agony of expectation, we took them for a couple of hazy or crazy old +sailors. On nearer inspection they both wear a world of brooches, +rings, &c., and Lady Eleanor positively <i>orders</i>—several +stars and crosses, and a red ribbon, exactly like a K.C.B. To crown +all, they have crop heads, shaggy, rough, bushy, and as white as snow, the +one with age alone, the other assisted by a sprinkling of powder. The +elder lady is almost blind, and every way much decayed; the other, the +ci-devant groom, in good preservation. But who could paint the +prints, the dogs, the cats, the miniatures, the cram of cabinets, clocks, +glass-cases, books, bijouterie, dragon-china, nodding mandarins, and +whirligigs of every shape and hue—the whole house outside and in (for +we must see everything to the dressing-closets), <i>covered</i> with carved +oak, very rich and fine some of it—and the illustrated copies of Sir +W.’s poems, and the joking simpering compliments about Waverley, and +the anxiety to know who McIvor really was, and the absolute devouring of +the poor Unknown, who had to carry off, besides all the rest, one small bit +of literal <i>butter</i> dug up in a Milesian stone jar lately from the +<!-- page 28--><a name="page28"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +28</span>bottom of some Irish bog. Great romance (<i>i.e.</i> absurd +innocence of character) one must have looked for; but it was confounding to +find this mixed up with such eager curiosity, and enormous knowledge of the +tattle and scandal of the world they had so long left. Their tables +were piled with newspapers from every corner of the kingdom, and they +seemed to have the deaths and marriages of the antipodes at their +fingers’ ends. Their albums and autographs, from Louis XVIII. +and George IV., down to magazine poets and quack-doctors, are a +museum. I shall never see the spirit of blue-stockingism again in +such perfect incarnation. Peveril won’t get over their final +kissing match for a week. Yet it is too bad to laugh at these good +old girls; they have long been the guardian angels of the village, and are +worshipped by man, woman, and child about them.’”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>In July, 1828, the charming vale of Llangollen was visited by a German +Prince (Puckler-Muskau of Prussia), who has thus left on record the +impressions which his excursion in that vicinity excited:—</p> +<blockquote> +<p>“The most beautiful reality, however, awaited me this morning in +Wales. The vision of clouds seemed to have been the harbinger of the +magnificence of the vale of Llangollen,—a spot which, in my opinion, +far surpasses all the beauties of the Rhine-land, and has, moreover, a +character quite its own, from the unusual forms of the peaked tops, and +rugged declivities of its mountains. The Dee, a rapid stream, winds +through the green valley in <!-- page 29--><a name="page29"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 29</span>a thousand fantastic bendings, overhung with +thick underwood. On each side high mountains rise abruptly from the +plain, and are crowned with antique ruins, modern country-houses, +manufactories, whose towering chimneys send out columns of thick smoke, or +with grotesque groups of upright rocks. The vegetation is everywhere +rich, and hill and vale are filled with lofty trees, whose varied hues add +so infinitely to the beauty and picturesque effect of a landscape. In +the midst of this luxuriant nature, arises, with a grandeur heightened by +contrast, a single long, black, bare range of mountains, clothed only with +thick, dark heather,” and from time to time skirting the high +road. This magnificent road, which from London to Holyhead, is as +even as a ‘parquet,’ here runs along the side of the left range +of mountains, at about their middle elevation and following all their +windings; so that in riding along at a brisk trot or gallop, the traveller +is presented at every minute with a completely new prospect; and without +changing his position, overlooks the valley now before him, now behind, now +at his side. On one side is an aqueduct of twenty-five slender +arches, a work which would have done honour to Rome. Through this a +second river is led over the valley and across the Dee, at an elevation of +an hundred and twenty feet above the bed of the natural stream. A few +miles further on, the little town of Llangollen offers a delightful resting +place, and is deservedly much resorted to.</p> +<p><!-- page 30--><a name="page30"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +30</span>“There is a beautiful view from the churchyard near the inn: +here I climbed upon a tomb, and stood for half an hour enjoying with deep +and grateful delight the beauties so richly spread before me. +Immediately below me bloomed a terraced garden, filled with vine, +honeysuckle, rose, and a hundred gay flowers, which descended to the very +edge of the foaming stream. On the right hand, my eye followed the +crisped waves in their restless murmuring course through the overhanging +thicket; before me rose two lines of wood, divided by a strip of +meadow-land filled with grazing cattle; and high above all, rose the bare +conical peak of a mountain crowned by the ruins of the old Welsh castle +Dinas Brân, or the Crow’s Fortress. On the left, the +stone houses of the town lie scattered along the valley; the river forms a +considerable waterfall near the picturesque bridge, while three colossal +rocks rise immediately behind it like giant guards, and shut out all the +more distant wonders of this enchanting region.</p> +<p>“Before I left Llangollen I recollected the two celebrated ladies +who have inhabited this valley for more than half a century, and of whom I +had heard once as a child, and again recently in London. You have +doubtless heard your father talk of them;—‘si non, voilà +leur histoire.’ Fifty-six years ago, two young, pretty and +fashionable ladies, Lady Eleanor Butler, and the daughter of the late Lord +Ponsonby, took it in their heads to hate men, to love only each other, and +to live from that hour <!-- page 31--><a name="page31"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 31</span>in some remote hermitage. The resolution +was immediately executed; and from that time neither lady has ever passed a +night out of their cottage. On the other hand, no one who is +presentable travels in Wales unprovided with an introduction to them. +It is affirmed that the ‘scandal’ of the great world interests +them as much as when they lived in it; and that their curiosity to know +what passes has preserved all its freshness. I had compliments to +deliver to them from several ladies, but I had neglected to furnish myself +with a letter. I therefore sent my card, determined if they declined +my visit, as I was led to fear, to storm the cottage. Here, as +elsewhere, however, in England, a title easily opened the door, and I +immediately received a gracious invitation to a second breakfast. +Passing along a charming road, through a trim and pretty pleasure-ground, +in a quarter of an hour I reached a small but tasteful gothic cottage, +situated directly opposite to Dinas Bran, various glimpses of which were +visible through openings cut in the trees. I alighted, and was +received at the door by the two ladies. Fortunately I was already +prepared by hearsay for their peculiarities; I might otherwise have found +it difficult to repress some expression of astonishment. Imagine two +ladies, the eldest of whom, Lady Eleanor, a short robust woman, begins to +feel her years a little, being now eighty-three; the other, a tall and +imposing person, esteems herself still youthful, being only +seventy-four. Both wore their still abundant hair <!-- page 32--><a +name="page32"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 32</span>combed straight back +and powdered, a round man’s hat, a man’s cravat and waistcoat, +but in the place of ‘inexpressibles,’ a short petticoat and +boots: the whole covered by a coat of blue cloth, of a cut quite +peculiar,—a sort of middle term between a man’s coat and a +lady’s riding-habit. Over this, Lady Eleanor wore, first, the +grand cordon of the order of St. Louis across her shoulder; secondly, the +same order around her neck; thirdly, the small cross of the same in her +button-hole, and ‘pour comble de gloire,’ a golden lily of +nearly the natural size, as a star,—all, as she said, presents of the +Bourbon family. So far the whole effect was somewhat ludicrous. +But now, you must imagine both ladies with that agreeable +‘aisance,’ that air of the world of the ‘ancien +regime,’ courteous and entertaining, without the slightest +affectation; speaking French as well as any Englishwoman of my +acquaintance; and above all, with that essentially polite, unconstrained, +and simply cheerful manner of the good society of that day, which, in our +serious hardworking age of business, appears to be going to utter +decay. I was really affected with a melancholy sort of pleasure in +contemplating it in the persons of the amiable old ladies who are among the +last of its living representatives; nor could I witness without lively +sympathy the unremitting, natural and affectionate attention with which the +younger treated her somewhat infirmer friend, and anticipated all her +wants. The charm of such actions lies chiefly in the manner in which +they <!-- page 33--><a name="page33"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +33</span>are performed,—in things which appear small and +insignificant, but which are never lost upon a susceptible heart.</p> +<p>“I began by saying that I esteemed myself fortunate in being +permitted to deliver to the fair recluses the compliments with which I was +charged by my grandfather, who had had the honour of visiting them fifty +years ago. Their beauty indeed they had lost, but not their memory: +they remembered the C--- C--- very well, immediately produced an old +memorial of him, and expressed their wonder that so young a man was dead +already. Not only the venerable ladies, but their house, was full of +interest; indeed it contained some real treasures. There is scarcely +a remarkable person of the last half century who has not sent them a +portrait or some curiosity or antique as a token of remembrance. The +collection of these, a well-furnished library, a delightful situation, an +equable, tranquil life, and perfect friendship and union,—these have +been their possessions; and if we may judge by their robust old age and +their cheerful temper, they have not chosen amiss.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>During the summer of 1833, Miss Catherine Sinclair, the clever authoress +of “Modern Accomplishments,” made an excursion through Wales, +and thus describes her visit to Plas Newydd:—</p> +<blockquote> +<p>“No eyes but those of a poet are worthy to behold the celebrated +valley of Llangollen, where we next proceeded, after having drawn largely +on the firm of Messrs. Wordsworth, Cowper, Thomson, and <!-- page 34--><a +name="page34"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 34</span>Co. for language to pay +a due tribute of admiration to this surpassing scene,—but who has a +genius equal to the majesty of nature? I thought of the Mahometan who +turned back when he observed some such rich and fertile plain, saying, he +had been only promised one Paradise, and did not wish to enjoy it upon +earth. Instead of following his example, however, we advanced, trying +to fancy ourselves on the banks of the Rhine, to which so many travellers +have compared this beautiful valley. Pray employ your unrivalled +taste in imagining the rugged mountains,—the sparkling +river,—the ancient trees,—the smiling cottages,—the +daisied meadows, and the fertile gardens, all grouped or scattered in the +way you think best,—and invention can suggest nothing more +perfect.</p> +<p>“The valley of Llangollen belonged once to the far-famed Owen +Glendower, mentioned in Shakespeare’s Plays, as ‘not in the +roll of common men.’ His palace stood near this formerly, and +here he maintained a war during twelve years against Henry IV., being a +keen adherent of Richard’s; besides which, a private feud against +Lord Grey de Ruthyn whetted his exertions. Peace was, however, about +to be concluded in 1415, between the Welsh chief and the English king, on +very honourable terms, when, as we frequently observe, if any one attains +his utmost earthly desires, Owen died. But though the vale of +Llangollen boasts of such a hero, its chief celebrity arises from a pair of +heroines; and we lost no time in doing homage <!-- page 35--><a +name="page35"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 35</span>to their memories, by +scrambling our way up a steep ascent to that well-known cottage, where the +late Lady Eleanor Butler and the Honourable Miss Ponsonby, during more than +half a century, devoted their long lives so romantically to friendship, +celibacy, and the knitting of blue stockings. It seems only +astonishing that this is so very rare an occurrence, for any one with a +friend so richly endowed as my accomplished correspondent, might feel safe +from the possibility of tiring, and might like to connect her name with so +charming a scene and with so romantic a story. Two successors to +these fair hermits have already sprung up, as substitutes for the original +occupants, following the same exclusive plan of life; and in a moment of +enthusiasm I felt much inclined to knock at the door and ask if they would +make it a trio. In the case of Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby, +very transient visits only were acceptable, and even their own names +remained long concealed, as the friends eloped clandestinely without +confiding to any one, except a maid servant, the place of their +retreat. The cause of this very close seclusion having been variously +conjectured, excited much gossipping curiosity at the time; but from +whatever cause the hermitage originated, here, embowered in roses, they +‘made a solitude and called it peace.’ After discussing +the Ladies of Llangollen, our thoughts naturally diverged into a general +consideration, whether the greatest number of voluntary recluses have +relinquished social intercourse <!-- page 36--><a name="page36"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 36</span>on account of disappointed affection, mortified +vanity, or mistaken devotion.</p> +<p>“What a beau ideal of earthly felicity springs up to the +imagination in taking a glance at the beautiful cottage of Llangollen! all +the every-day vexations and vulgar cares of life, seem there swept aside, +and nothing left for the inhabitants but to lead a life of graceful +leisure, tying up carnations, engrafting roses, gazing at the splendid +scenery around, and talking in perpetual ecstacies about flowers and +perfumes. Almost every grown-up person entertains, at the out-set of +life, notions of happiness with a cottage nearly similar to that which a +little girl enjoys with her first doll,—dressing it up, altering, +arranging, painting, and spoiling it; but this hermitage really is a +singular looking toy. The building is long and low, so completely +cased in richly-carved oak, that it might be mistaken for an enormous +wardrobe. The garden slopes upwards from the river Dee, and is +greatly embellished by a splendid beech hedge about forty feet high; +several charming little summer houses are sprinkled about the grounds; and +in one most romantic arbour, overlooking the fine cascade, we found a +volume lying open on the seat, which proved to be Southey’s Roderick; +suitable reading for such a scene of poetical beauty.</p> +<p>“An attempt at embellishment has been made, by placing a stuffed +bear near the house, probably in imitation of the Zoological Gardens; but +the idea is rather a failure, and would appear more suitable <!-- page +37--><a name="page37"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 37</span>over the door +of a perfumer’s shop, to intimate the presence of bear’s +grease. A little gim-crack model of a wooden house is also visible, +by way of an ornament, stuck on the summit of a wooden pillar, but the +effect is disproportioned to all surrounding objects, even more than the +designs on Chinese paper; where men of six feet high are represented +entering mansions half their own height, and birds may be seen flying +larger than either the houses or their inhabitants. In a cottage +built of oak and roofed with thatch, it would be very desirable that the +inhabitants should have some taste for the study of entomology, as they +might find an inexhaustible hunting-field among the wooden walls and +creepers. It has been disputed whether more inconvenience is endured +from the extreme cold of an English winter, or from the swarms of insects +inevitably encountered during the heat of an Italian summer; but those who +inhabit this ‘Fairy Palace of the Vale,’ might be able from +experience at home, to decide the question. They could afford +sufficient employment for an entire pin-manufactory, to supply impaling +machines for all the specimens of insects that might be collected and +classified here. The birds too, were so vociferous, that we seemed +standing in an aviary, and the locality would not at all have suited Lady +---, who scolded her gardener for ‘letting the sparrows make such a +noise under her windows in the morning.’ It is much to be +lamented how many ‘harmonious blackbirds’ annually fall victims +to the preservation of cherries; <!-- page 38--><a name="page38"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 38</span>and though the ‘four-and-twenty baked in +a pie,’ might be rather too loud when they all ‘began to +sing,’ yet a few in a garden are so enlivening and delightful, that +it would be better never to taste fruit again than to lose such a concert +of natural melody as we enjoyed at Llangollen.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Mr. Roscoe, in his remarkably interesting “Wanderings in North +Wales,” is less enthusiastic than some tourists on the subject of our +present narrative; he says:—</p> +<blockquote> +<p>“Plas Newydd, for so many years the residence of the fair recluses +of the lovely vale of Llangollen, stands on a gentle eminence close to the +town, ornamented with a carved railing in front, and decorated with +grotesque gables and ornaments. The present proprietors are also two +maiden ladies, who seem disposed to perpetuate the conventual celebrity of +this place; and are certainly not less urbane than the former possessors, +in permitting visitors to gratify their taste in the inspection of the +beautiful grounds. Attended by my <i>cicerone</i>, the gardener, I +passed from one object of natural beauty to another,—the vale of +Pen-gwern surrounded by part of the Berwyn chain, the woody dingle, and +brawling brook of the Cyflymed, with many others, which are supplied with +the most gratifying conveniences for their leisurely inspection. +After all, I must confess, filled as was my mind by the impressions of the +majestic scenes with which it had become familiar, the miniature landscapes +supplied by the situation of Plas Newydd, fell far short of the +anticipation <!-- page 39--><a name="page39"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +39</span>I had formed, and they forcibly recalled the emotion I remembered +to have felt after viewing the mimic hills and vales, and passionless +cascades of the poet Shenstone, in his retreat at the Leasowes, near +Hagley.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Miss Costello, who made the tour of North Wales in 1844 is even less +complimentary, and is thus smartly satirical in the peculiarities of the +departed “Ladies:”—</p> +<blockquote> +<p>“One of the great attractions of Llangollen a few years ago was +the romantic story attached to the place and the residence there of Lady +Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby. Pilgrimages were made to this +shrine of friendship, and the ladies were overwhelmed with visitors, and +their cottage filled with offerings. Their tomb is now in the +churchyard, and their cottage let; and very few persons recollect much +about them, or feel any interest in a sentimental history, which belonged +to the last century, and now can only excite a smile at the eccentricity of +its heroines, who, under pretence of retiring from society, made themselves +conspicuous throughout the country. Most of their accumulated stores +were sold by public auction, on the death of the last of the friends, and +the cottage, as it now stands, is by no means either a rural or picturesque +object. It is covered inside and out with carved wood, some of value, +and some quite worthless; and all that remains of the taste of the former +proprietors merely proves how little was required to please fifty years +ago. The trees, planted by the friends, are now <!-- page 40--><a +name="page40"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 40</span>grown high, and shut +out all view of the country; in fact, the whole place has a vulgar, +common-place appearance, and excited in my mind no sort of interest, nor +was my indifference agreeably dispelled by the view of an engraving, hung +up in the little boudoir, representing the two ladies sitting at their +table covered with curiosities, both dressed in masculine habits, and both +frightfully ugly. These portraits, it seems, were taken by an +amateur, by stealth, as neither of ‘The Ladies of Llangollen’ +would consent to sit, and a lamentable record is it which creates most +unpleasing sensations to the lover of the graceful, beautiful, and +venerable.</p> +<p>“The ‘ladies’ were, although singular in the extreme, +remarkably charitable and considerate of the necessities of their +neighbours, and their loss has been greatly felt. They seemed vain +and pompous, but accomplished and intellectual, and were a strange compound +of wisdom and folly, pride and condescension.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The celebrated Madame de Genlis, in an entertaining miscellany, under +the title of “Souvenirs de Felicie L---,” has given the +following graphic narrative of “The Fair Recluses of +Llangollen:”—</p> +<blockquote> +<p>“During my residence in England (says she), nothing struck me so +much as the delicious cottage of Llangollen, in North Wales. It is +not a little extraordinary, that a circumstance so singular and remarkable +as that connected with this retreat, should hitherto have escaped the +notice of all <!-- page 41--><a name="page41"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +41</span>modern travellers. The manner in which I became acquainted +with it was this:—During our long-stay at Bury, a small company of +five or six persons, including ourselves, met every evening from seven till +half-past ten o’clock. We diverted ourselves with music and +conversation, so that the time past very agreeably. One night +friendship happened to be the subject of conversation, and I declared that +I would with pleasure undertake a long journey to see two persons who had +long been united by the bonds of genuine friendship. ‘Well, +Madam,’ replied Mr. Stuart (now Lord Castlereagh), go to Llangollen; +you will there see a model of perfect friendship, which will afford you the +more delight, as it is exhibited by two females who are yet young and +charming in every respect. Would you like to hear the history of Lady +Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby?’—‘It would give me the +greatest pleasure.’—‘I will relate it to +you.’ At these words the company drew nearer to Mr. Stuart, we +formed a little circle round him, and after recollecting himself a few +moments, he thus began his narrative:—</p> +<p>“‘Lady Eleanor Butler, was born in Dublin. She was +left an orphan while in her cradle; and possessing an ample fortune, +together with an amiable disposition and a beautiful person, her hand was +solicited by persons belonging to the first families in Ireland. At +an early age she manifested great repugnance to the idea of giving herself +a master. This love of independence, which she never dissembled, <!-- +page 42--><a name="page42"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 42</span>did no +injury to her reputation; her conduct has always been irreproachable, and +no female is more highly distinguished for sweetness of temper, modesty, +and all the virtues which adorn her sex. In tender infancy a mutual +attachment took place between her and Miss Ponsonby, by an accident which +made a deep impression on their imagination. They had no difficulty +to persuade themselves that heaven had formed them for each other; that is, +that it had designed each of them to devote her existence to the other, so +that they might glide together down the stream of life, in the bosom of +peace, the most intimate friendship, and delicious independence. This +idea their sensibility was destined to realize. Their friendship +gradually grew stronger with their years, so that at seventeen they +mutually engaged never to sacrifice their liberty, or to part from each +other. From that moment they formed the design of withdrawing from +the world, and of settling for good in some sequestered retreat. +Having heard of the charming scenery of Wales, they secretly absconded from +their friends for the purpose of fixing upon their future residence. +They visited Llangollen, and there, on the summit of a mountain, they found +a little detached cottage, with the situation of which they were +delighted. Here they resolved to form their establishment. +Meanwhile the guardians of the young fugitives sent people after them, and +they were conveyed back to Dublin. They declared that they would +return to their mountain as soon as they <!-- page 43--><a +name="page43"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 43</span>were of age. +Accordingly, at twenty-one, in spite of the entreaties and remonstrances of +their relatives and friends, they quitted Ireland for ever, and flew to +Llangollen. Miss Ponsonby is not rich, but Lady Eleanor possesses a +considerable fortune. She purchased the little hut and the property +of the mountain, where she built a cottage, very simple in external +appearance, but the interior of which displays the greatest elegance. +On the top of the mountain she has formed about the house a court and +flower-garden; a hedge of rosebushes is the only enclosure that surrounds +this rural habitation. A convenient carriage-road, the steepness of +which has been diminished by art, was carried along the mountain. On +the side of the latter some ancient pines of prodigious height were +preserved; fruit trees were planted, and a great quantity of cherry trees +in particular, which produce the best and finest cherries in England. +The two friends likewise possess a farm for their cattle, with a pretty +farm-house and a kitchen-garden at the foot of the mountain. In this +sequestered abode these two extraordinary persons, with minds equally +cultivated, and accomplishments equally pleasing, have now resided ten +years, without ever having been absent from it a single night. +Nevertheless they are not unsociable, they sometimes pay visits to the +neighbouring gentry, and receive with the greatest politeness travellers on +their way to or from Ireland, who <!-- page 44--><a name="page44"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 44</span>are recommended to them by any of their old +friends.’</p> +<p>“This account strongly excited my curiosity, and produced the same +effect on Mademoiselle d’Orleans and my two young companions. +We determined the same night to set out immediately for Llangollen, by the +circuitous route of Brighton, Portsmouth, and the Isle of Wight. It +was the latter end of July when we arrived at Llangollen. This place +has not the rich appearance of the English villages in general, but nothing +can equal the cleanliness of the houses, and among the lower classes of any +country this is an infallible proof of abundance. Llangollen, +surrounded with woods and meadows, clothed with the freshest verdure, is +situated at the foot of the mountain belonging to the two friends, which +there forms a majestic pyramid covered with trees and flowers. We +arrived at the cottage, the only object of our journey, an hour before +sunset.</p> +<p>“The two friends had received in the morning by a messenger the +letter which Mr. Stuart had given me for them. We were received with +a grace, a cordiality, and kindness, of which it would be impossible for me +to give any idea. I could not turn my eyes from those two ladies, +rendered so interesting by their friendship and so extraordinary on account +of their way of life. I perceived in them none of that vanity which +takes delight in the surprize of others. Their mutual attachment, and +<!-- page 45--><a name="page45"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 45</span>their +whole conduct evince such simplicity, that astonishment soon gives way to +softer emotions; all they do and say breathes the utmost frankness and +sincerity. One circumstance which I cannot help remarking is, that +after living so many years in this sequestered retreat, they speak French +with equal fluency and purity. I was likewise much struck with the +little resemblance there is between them. Lady Eleanor has a charming +face, embellished with the glow of health; her whole appearance and manner +announce vivacity and the most unaffected gaiety. Miss Ponsonby has a +fine countenance, but pale and melancholy. One seems to have been +born in this solitude, so perfectly is she at her ease in it; for her easy +carriage shews that she has not retained the slightest recollection of the +world and its vain pleasures. The other, silent and pensive, has too +much candour and innocence for you to suppose that repentance has conducted +her into solitude, but you would suppose that she still cherishes some +painful regrets. Both have the most engaging politeness, and +highly-cultivated minds. An excellent library, composed of the best +English, French, and Italian authors, affords them an inexhaustible source +of diversified amusement and solid occupation; for reading is not truly +profitable except when a person has time to read again.</p> +<p>“The interior of the house is delightful on account of the just +proportion and distribution of the apartments, the elegance of the +ornaments and <!-- page 46--><a name="page46"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +46</span>furniture, and the admirable view which you enjoy from all the +windows; the drawing-room is adorned with charming landscapes, drawn and +coloured from nature, by Miss Ponsonby. Lady Eleanor is a great +proficient in music; and their solitary habitation is filled with +embroidery by them both, of wonderful execution. Miss Ponsonby, who +writes the finest hand I ever saw, has copied a number of select pieces in +verse and prose, which she has ornamented with vignettes and arabesques, in +the best taste, and which form a most valuable collection. Thus the +arts are cultivated there with equal modesty and success, and their +productions are admired with a feeling that is not experienced elsewhere; +the spectator observes with delight that so much merit is secure in this +peaceful retreat from the shafts of satire and envy, and that talents +unaccompanied with ostentation and pride, have there never coveted any +suffrages but those of friendship.</p> +<p>“This evening was a scene of enchantment for me; not one painful +reflection disturbed its felicity. I retired to rest, but my +imagination was so fully occupied with what I had seen and heard, that my +thoughts kept me for a long time awake. At length, I was just falling +asleep, when I was roused by the most melodious sounds. I listened in +great astonishment; it was not music, but an indistinct and celestial +harmony which penetrated my very soul. I discovered that it was +produced by a violent wind which had just then arisen; my ear <!-- page +47--><a name="page47"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 47</span>distinguished +the distant noise and the whistling usually heard on such occasions, but +the winds changing their nature as they approached this asylum of peace and +friendship, formed only the most enchanting harmony as they met its trees +and its walls. I was strongly disposed to believe in prodigies; but +nevertheless I was determined to investigate the nature of this, but I +durst not rise for fear of waking Mademoiselle d’Orleans, who was +extremely fatigued with her journey, and slept in a bed close by +mine. The tempest suddenly ceased, and the harmonious sounds appeared +to be carried to a distance by the retiring winds. I raised my head +towards the heavens to catch the last tones of this celestial concert, +which seemed to be lost in the clouds. I listened with transport like +St. Cecilia; if I had had my harp in my hands I should certainly have +dropped it; at that moment all terrestrial music appeared totally +spiritless and insipid.</p> +<p>“Next morning the whole mystery was explained. On opening my +window I found in the balcony an Eolian harp, an instrument with which I +was then unacquainted, and which, when the wind blows upon it, produces +such enchanting sounds.</p> +<p>“I walked out the whole forenoon with the two friends; nothing can +equal the charms of the surrounding scenery, and of the prospects which the +mountain whose summit they occupy commands; at this elevation they appear +the queens of all the beautiful country at their feet. Towards the +north <!-- page 48--><a name="page48"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +48</span>they have a view of the village and of a wood; to the south a long +river washes the foot of the mountain, and fertilizes meadows of prodigious +extent, beyond which is discovered an amphitheatre of hills, covered with +intermingled trees and rocks. In the midst of this wild scenery rises +a majestic tower, which might be taken for the Pharos of this coast, but is +only the ruins of a magnificent castle, once the residence of the prince of +the country. This solitary region was doubtless at that time +flourishing and populous, now it is abandoned to nature alone; nothing is +now to be seen in it but herds of goats, and a few scattered herdsmen +sitting upon the rocks and playing upon the Irish harp. Facing this +rustic and melancholy scene the two friends have raised a verdant seat, +shaded by two poplars, and thither they told me they often repair in summer +to read together the poems of Ossian.</p> +<p>“The ride from Wrexham to Llangollen is remarkable for the +sublimity and awful grandeur of the prospects; the most prominent feature +in the landscape is a high and stupendous chain of mountains, sometimes +swelling into the clouds, or gently shelving into the vallies, around which +they form a wide amphitheatre; and by their elevations afford shelter, and +tend to fertilize the vales at their bases. I was led to +exclaim—</p> +<p>‘I love thy mountain’s giant forms!<br /> + Darkly clad in gath’ring storms;<br /> +I love thy rocks, down whose steep sides,<br /> + With foaming, dizzying crash,<br /> +<!-- page 49--><a name="page49"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +49</span>Thunder the torrent’s tan-brown tides,<br /> + And roaring whirlwinds dash.’</p> +<p>“For,</p> +<p>‘’Mid clouds and crags, dark pools and mountains drear,<br +/> + The wild-wood’s silence, and the billow’s roll,<br /> +Great Nature rules, and claims with brow austere,<br /> + The shudd’ring homage of the inmost soul.’</p> +<p>“From the craggy sides of the rocks descend the tributary streams +to supply the river which divides the dales, and which dashes its foaming +impetuous course along the banks, often edged with broken crags and grey +rocks, or is seen winding in a deeper and more peaceful stream through dark +and silent groves, spreading their autumnal shades over the surface, or +often glistening through fields of verdure and cultivated spots of ground; +here foaming and chafing some dark ruin’s tottering base, there +reflecting the modern villa or the humble hamlet in its silver bosom, and +by the variety of scenery giving new beauty to the whole.</p> +<p>“The cottages, bridges, villas, towers, rocks, and dark ruins of +Gothic antiquity, are in unison with the surrounding objects, and the +attention is frequently called from beholding the beauties of nature to +pause on the works of art. In the centre of the long valley which +stretches to Llangollen, is erected a most stupendous aqueduct, by which +the canal is conveyed from a lofty hill over a wide chasm in the mountains; +the length of this amazing work of art and human industry, is, I was <!-- +page 50--><a name="page50"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 50</span>informed, +three hundred yards, the aqueduct composed of cast iron, is supported on +fifty stone pillars and arches, and the view of this immense pile +bestriding the valley is grand beyond description, and contributes much to +heighten the effect produced by the whole scenery; for here grandeur and +sublimity sit enthroned on the mountains, and solitude and human privacy, +with their attendant charms, have fixed their abode in the vallies.</p> +<p>“The beauties of the Vale of Llangollen certainly exceed every +idea I had formed of their grandeur, and on my arrival at the inn in the +village, the muse embodied the following</p> +<p>“LINES ON VISITING LLANGOLLEN.</p> +<p>‘Much have I heard, Llangollen, of thy scenes,<br /> +And the wild landscapes of thy mountain greens,<br /> +The rushing streams, that dash thy rocks among,<br /> +Thy snow-topt mountains, thy wild harper’s song,<br /> +Thy fruitful vallies deep, where oft between<br /> +Rise hamlets, rocks, and tow’rs to grace the scene.<br /> +Where solitude and calm contentment dwell,<br /> +And contemplation roves each rocky dell,<br /> +Or climbs the snow-topt mountain’s cloudy height<br /> +To watch the sinking shades of evening light;<br /> +To view the foaming torrent’s misty shower,<br /> +To list’ the brooding tempest’s rising roar,<br /> +Mark the blue mists the silvery moonbeams shroud,<br /> +Or golden ev’ning edge the dusky cloud;<br /> +Yet, till this hour my doubting heart has thought<br /> +Thy glowing scenes by fancy’s pencil wrought,<br /> +Or drest in poetry’s enchanting hues,<br /> +And all the flatt’ring colours of the muse;<br /> +<!-- page 51--><a name="page51"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 51</span>But +if in winter’s storms thy beauties charm,<br /> +If the cold breast thy varying landscapes warm,<br /> +In summer’s smiles it surely stands confest,<br /> +That he who draws thee fairest paints thee best.’”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Having thus seen the various amusing and interesting records, which so +many of our most popular authors have given to the world, respecting the +once famous “Ladies of Llangollen,” curiosity induced us to pay +a visit to this much frequented abode of ancient friendship. +Accordingly in March, 1847, we made an excursion, in company with our +respected Publisher, to the celebrated retreat of Plas Newydd; and through +the favour of Mr. Jacques, an intelligent and hospitable gentleman resident +at Pen-y-bryn, Llangollen, we were introduced to the present owners, Miss +Lolly and Miss Andrew, and met with a most courteous reception. Their +manners are easy, dignified, and lady-like; totally free from all +affectation, and in nowise marked by that frigid stateliness and pedantic +formality, which a censorious world proverbially attributes to a state of +elderly maidenhood. In all its characteristic particulars, the +cottage remains in the same condition as in the days of Lady Eleanor and +Miss Ponsonby; but its present possessors have introduced several judicious +alterations in the interior, which, though carried out in strict harmony +with the general design of its former occupants, exhibit an improved taste +and a cultivated judgment. <!-- page 52--><a name="page52"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 52</span>The house is delightfully situated, and is +well-adapted to realize the notion of the poet—</p> +<blockquote> +<p>“’Tis pleasant from the loop-holes of retreat<br /> +To look at such a world; to see great Babel<br /> +And not feel the crush;”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>but the site is not well chosen for developing the many charming +prospects which the vale of Llangollen affords; and, indeed, the entire +arrangements, both of dwelling and pleasure grounds, seem to be suggestive +rather of another poetical maxim in great favour with anchorites and +recluses—“Retire, the world shut out.” We cannot +agree with Miss Seward, who describes this hermitage as “a retreat +which breathes all the witchery of genius, taste, and +sentiment.” It is rather fantastical than tasteful, and savours +more of eccentricity than sentiment. In the Gothic entrance, there +are undoubtedly many fine specimens of carved wood-work, some of which we +suspect were the plunder of despoiled convents and churches during the +continental wars of the last century; but classical, mythological, and +scripture subjects are intermingled in odd confusion, and with “most +admired disorder.” The rooms are small and comfortable, with +very low ceilings; the prospect from the dining-room is flat and tame; but +several of the miniature views, as seen through small openings of the +painted window in the library, are remarkably picturesque, and reveal +themselves with a pleasing effect to the eye of the artist or the admirer +<!-- page 53--><a name="page53"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 53</span>of +natural scenery. The cottage yet contains many articles of furniture +and choice rarities, which belonged to the former owners; whose portraits +adorn the fanciful little boudoir. Disguised as they are by the +strangeness of their costume, we should not like to hazard any opinion of +our own as to their personal charms; especially as Miss Seward has been so +minutely particular in telling us “all about them.” That +clever and amusing gossip says of the “ladies,” whom she +rhapsodizes as “the enchantresses” of Plas Newydd—</p> +<blockquote> +<p>“Lady Eleanor is of middle height, and somewhat beyond the +<i>embonpoint</i> as to plumpness; her face round and fair, with the glow +of luxuriant health. She has not fine features, but they are +agreeable; enthusiasm in her eye, hilarity and benevolence in her +smile. Exhaustless is her fund of historic and traditionary +knowledge, and of every thing passing in the present eventful period. +She expresses all she feels with an ingenuous ardour, at which, the +cold-spirited beings stare. I am informed that both these ladies read +and speak most of the modern languages. Of the Italian poets, +especially of Dante, they are warm admirers. Miss Ponsonby, somewhat +taller than her friend, is neither slender nor otherwise, but very +graceful. Easy, elegant, yet pensive, is her address and manner.</p> +<p> “Her voice, like lovers’ watched, is kind and +low.”</p> +<p>A face rather long than round, a complexion clear <!-- page 54--><a +name="page54"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 54</span>but without bloom, with +a countenance which, from its soft melancholy, has a peculiar +interest. If her features are not beautiful, they are very sweet and +feminine. Though the pensive spirit within permits not her lovely +dimples to give mirth to her smile, they increase its sweetness, and, +consequently, her power of engaging the affections. We see, through +her veil of shading reserve, that all the talents and accomplishments which +enrich the mind of Lady Eleanor, exist, with equal powers, in this her +charming friend.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>We commend these pen and ink portraits to the notice of our readers +without controversy; and the more especially, as they may gratify their +curiosity still more in this matter, by purchasing from our Publisher a +well-executed engraving representing, with all due fidelity, excellent +likenesses of the “Ladies of Llangollen;” each, as +<i>Hamlet</i> would say, “in her habit as she lived.”</p> +<p>Among the treasured relics which the cottage now contains, we were shewn +the veritable crutch-headed walking stick, on which Lady Eleanor used to +support her aged steps, when rambling through the village on errands of +mercy, or sauntering among the pleasure grounds of her mountain-home; and +we also saw and handled the broad-brimmed hat worn by Miss Ponsonby, whose +head we should judge to have been small and finely formed. O for the +genius of a Seward, to have written an ode to that venerable head-dress! +and in good truth, one might almost fancy we <!-- page 55--><a +name="page55"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 55</span>heard the spirit of +that amiable enthusiast, bidding us, like <i>Gesler’s</i> captain, +“bow down and honour it.” Seriously, every little +particular connected with the history and habits of the departed +“Ladies” is so anxiously prized at Llangollen, that we felt +very grateful for the prompt kindness with which the present worthy +possessors of the unique residence contributed to our information and +amusement. We may therefore tell, for the advantage of such of our +readers as associate their notions of “old maids” with an +affectionate regard for the canine and feline tribes, that Lady Eleanor +Butler possessed a favourite dog of the turnspit-breed, called +“Trust;” that Miss Ponsonby had a small white poodle, named +“Busy;” and that they had a joint interest in a popular cat, +answering to the name of “Meggins;” all of which four-footed +domestics were especial pets in their garden walks or at their quiet +fire-side.</p> +<p>The little domain of Plas-Newydd, if situated in some localities, would +be esteemed a miniature paradise, but planted as it is amidst so many +scenes of surpassing loveliness, its limited and somewhat formal +characteristics suffer by comparison. The arrangement of the ground +might have suited the peculiar tastes and habits of the +“recluses;” but it is certainly very far inferior to the +picturesque effect, which landscape gardening in the present day could +<i>there</i> produce. The prettiest portions of these much-vaunted +precints are the shady knoll, overhanging a romantic glen, <!-- page +56--><a name="page56"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 56</span>down which a +brawling streamlet leaps its frothing course over a craggy bed; and the +rural walk by the gothic fount, into which a pellucid mountain-rill pours +its refreshing waters. Among the remembrances of former days, is the +effigy of a guardian ‘lion,’ (which, under the name of a +‘bear,’ has been noted by an author whom we have quoted;) the +melancholy quadruped is now considerably “used up,” and excites +a laugh at the burlesque on the monarch of the forest, which his attenuated +figure and shrivelled hide present. Plas-Newydd is unquestionably a +delightful residence; and its adjacent pleasure grounds and gardens afford +most inviting facilities for those who love to make a practical study of +horticulture; to ruminate amidst its tranquil retreats over the published +works of some favourite authors; or to “meditate,” like the +patriarch, at “even-tide” on the wonders and glories of Eternal +Power. Apart therefore from the romantic recollections, with which +the singular history of the “Ladies of Llangollen” has invested +this fair spot of earth, it presents to the tourist certain attractions, +which the reflective explorer of the lovely vallies of the Dee should not +neglect. We heard from some of the older inhabitants several +anecdotes of the benevolence and charity of the departed +“Ladies,” whose memory is most affectionately cherished in the +neighbourhood. It has been said that on religious subjects, these +ancient friends were divided in opinion; one being a Roman Catholic and +<!-- page 57--><a name="page57"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 57</span>the +other a Protestant; but the parish clerk, an intelligent old man who knew +them well, assured us that they both regularly attended the services in the +Church of Llangollen, and received the Sacrament of the Lord’s +Supper, both there, and at their own cottage during the last illness of +Lady Eleanor Butler, from the vicar. With all their eccentricity, +their attachment to each other must have been of a pure, unchanging, and +fervent character; else would they never have forsworn in the full bloom of +youth and beauty, the gay fascinations or the elegant ease of courtly life +for the dull monotony of seclusion and celibacy. Both in feeling and +intellect, Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby were no common persons; it +may of a truth be said of them, that “they lived to a good old age +and died honoured and respected;” and if ever the beings of a +brighter and holier sphere are permitted to cast back occasional glimpses +on the world which they have left, their spirits may sometimes hover over +the sacred spot where their ashes repose, and haunt the moon-lit banks of +the silvery Dee, in its murmuring current by the lowly church-yard of +Llangollen.</p> +<h2><!-- page 58--><a name="page58"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +58</span>VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY.</h2> +<p>The picturesque ruins of this venerable structure stand in a lovely and +sequestered valley, about two miles from Llangollen, and are approached by +as delightful and inviting road as ever rambler need wish to tread. +The Rev. John Williams, in his learned description of this ancient +monastery, says:</p> +<blockquote> +<p>“The abbey was founded about the year 1200, <a +name="citation58a"></a><a href="#footnote58a" class="citation">[58a]</a> +and in conformity with the rule <a name="citation58b"></a><a +href="#footnote58b" class="citation">[58b]</a> of the Cistercian +fraternity, was dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary. The names by +which it was generally known to the Welsh had, however, a particular +reference to the locality where it was situated: thus, ‘Monachlog y +Glyn,’ ‘Monachlog Glyn Egwestl,’ ‘Monachlog Pant y +Groes.’ And in Latin it was called ‘Abbatia <a +name="citation58c"></a><a href="#footnote58c" class="citation">[58c]</a> de +Valle Crucis,’ and ‘Abbatia de Llanegwest.’</p> +<p>“The remains of the abbey extant at the present day consist of the +church, and of a building on the southern side, part of which seems to have +formed the Abbot’s lodgings, and part to have been the refectory, +with the dormitory above. The church is a cruciform building, of +which the northern side <!-- page 59--><a name="page59"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 59</span>has been almost entirely destroyed, and without +any vestige remaining of its roof, except in the eastern aisle of the +southern transept. In the midst of these hallowed precincts the +rubbish is heaped up to a great height, caused, probably, by the fall of +the northern wall, and by the remains of the roof:—the pavement, if +there be any of it subsisting, is entirely concealed, and ash-trees grow +luxuriantly upon the mounds, adding to the picturesque effect of the ruin, +but saddening the heart of the antiquary. We are unable, therefore, +to determine the number of piers that formed the side of the nave; but from +the space between the western end and the central piers, at the +intersection of the transepts, we should conjecture this number to have +been three, thus making four arches on either side. The choir was +without aisles, but each transept had one on the eastern side, which seems +to have been used as a chapel. The oldest portion of the church is +the choir; the eastern end of which was lighted by three bold and lofty +lancet arches, rising from no great height above the level of the pavement +to half the altitude of the building, and by two proportionably smaller +lancets above. In the apex of the gable was probably a small +aperture, but of this no trace remains; the gable is mutilated, and we +judge only from the analogy of the western end of the nave. In each +of the northern and southern walls of the choir is a lancet window; and two +similar windows, but lower in height, occur in each of the eastern walls of +the transept aisles. High up <!-- page 60--><a +name="page60"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 60</span>in the southern wall, +also, is to be seen a small loophole, communicating with a passage which +leads over the vaulting of the southern transept aisle to the abbatial +building adjoining the church. This passage is now blocked up, but it +is conjectured to have served either as a closet wherein the abbot could +attend service privately, or else as a place of confinement or penitence +for the monks. The architecture of this portion of the church +corresponds in its style with the date of the foundation,—the +commencement of the thirteenth century: the lancets, with their mouldings, +are strictly of that date, and the capitals of the shafts, which are worked +with great boldness, are of the late Norman period, rather than of that +which is called Early-pointed.”</p> +<p>“Of all that portion of the nave which occurs between the central +tower and the western end, nothing remains but the outer wall of the +southern aisle; the western end of it, however, still stands, and is a +beautiful example of the richest and purest architecture of the middle of +the thirteenth century. Over a central doorway, with deeply recessed +mouldings and shafts, and with a bold dog-tooth ornament, each projection +of which is elegantly carved into four converging fleurs-de-lys, occur +three lofty windows, the central one taller than those at its +sides—all with remarkably bold splays, both internally and +externally, enriched with shafts and mouldings. The central window +appears to have been of only one light, though broad, and to have had its +arch occupied by a foliation of six <!-- page 61--><a +name="page61"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 61</span>cusps, and therefore of +seven recesses,—the foliating spaces being solid. The side +windows are each of two lights, the principal arch-head being solid, but +pierced with a single aperture divided into six foliations. Above +these three windows runs a kind of framework, analagous in some respects to +that at the eastern end of the choir. The gable is pierced above +these windows with a small but beautiful wheel-window of eight pointed +compartments, each trifoliated; the divisions being moulded in one order, +and converging to a central ring, itself pierced to admit the light. +Above all is a square quatrefoliated aperture in the very apex of the +gable. On the external face of the western end are two bold +buttresses of a single stage, that on the south-eastern side being pierced +with loopholes for a circular staircase formed in the thickness of itself +and the wall.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The Abbey of Valle Crucis was dissolved in the year 1535, and is said to +have been the first of the Welsh monasteries which underwent the doom of +abolition.</p> +<blockquote> +<p>Romantic Abbey! hallow’d be the rest<br /> +Of those, who rear’d thee in this wild green vale<br /> +A temple lovely as the place is blest—<br /> +And stern as beautiful:—but words would fail<br /> +To paint thy ruin’d glories, though the gale<br /> +Of desolation sweeps thro’ thy hoar pile,<br /> +And waves the long grass thro’ thy cloisters pale<br /> +Where the dark ivy scorns day’s garish smile,<br /> +And weed-grown fragments crown thy desecrated aisle.</p> +<p><!-- page 62--><a name="page62"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 62</span>* +* * *</p> +<p>How sweet the sounds!—whose soft enchantments rose<br /> +’Mid those wild woodlands at the matin prime—<br /> +Or when the vesper song at evening’s close<br /> +Wafted the soul beyond the cares of time,<br /> +To that Elysium of a brighter clime<br /> +Where thro’ heaven’s portals golden vistas gleam,<br /> +And the high harps of Seraphim sublime<br /> +Came o’er the spirit like a prophet’s dream,<br /> +Till faded earth away on glory’s endless beam.</p> +<p>Oft the proud feudal chief, whom human law<br /> +Or kingly pow’r could bind not, nor control,<br /> +Has paus’d before thy gates in holy awe,<br /> +And felt religion’s charm subdue his soul—<br /> +The heart that joy’d to hear the savage howl<br /> +Of battle on the breeze, has soften’d been—<br /> +List’ning the hymns of peace that sweetly stole<br /> +O’er this lone vale, where fancy’s eye hath seen<br /> +Forms bright and angel-like glide thro’ thy vistas green:</p> +<p>And angel forms here at thy altar knelt,<br /> +Fair dames, and gentle maidens whose bright eyes<br /> +The sternest heart of warrior-mould could melt,<br /> +Soft’ning grim war with gen’rous sympathy—<br /> +Pleading, like pity wafted from the skies<br /> +To quell the stormy rage of savage man:<br /> +And hence the gentle manners had their rise—<br /> +Hence knights for lady’s praise all dangers ran—<br /> +And thus, the glorious age of chivalry began.</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The Abbey derives its name (the Vale of the Cross) from a sepulchral +monument commonly called “<span class="smcap">The Pillar of +Eliseg</span>,” which stands on <!-- page 63--><a +name="page63"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 63</span>an ancient tumulus in +the middle of this beautifully secluded glen. It was erected by +Cyngen ab Cadell Dryrnllug, in memory of his great grandfather Eliseg, +whose son Brochmail Ysgythrog, grandfather of the founder of this rude +monument of filial veneration, was engaged in the memorable border wars at +the close of the sixth century; and was defeated at the Battle of Chester, +<span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 607. During the great rebellion this +pillar was thrown down by Oliver Cromwell’s “Reformers,” +who in their fiery zeal for destruction mistook it for a “Popish +Cross;” and it remained for more than a century in its broken +recumbent condition, when it was restored by the patriotism and +intelligence of Mr. Lloyd of Trevor Hall, and replaced upon its pedestal +with a suitable memorial to record the fact. It now forms an +interesting relic of antiquity, and is probably the oldest British Cross +(bearing a carved inscription) which exists in these islands. That +said inscription has long been a puzzle to the learned investigator of +archaeological remains.</p> +<p>Having wandered through the verdant meads of the “happy +valley,” the adventurous tourist may probably wish to climb the lofty +hill, which is crowned by the romantic ruins of the Castle of Dinas +Bran. This memorable fortress of the past, is a remarkable object +from all parts of the vale; for whose safety and defence it was long the +abode of a line of chiefs renowned in Cambrian lore. The view from +the summit is exceedingly picturesque, <!-- page 64--><a +name="page64"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 64</span>grand, and imposing; +and naturally prompts the exclamation of the Poet of the Seasons—</p> +<blockquote> +<p>“Heavens! what a goodly prospect spreads around.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>On descending the mountain-path, the traveller may perchance look round +for a comfortable resting-place and good refreshment; he will readily find +both, either at the Hand, or the King’s Head Hotel. In the +album of the latter house of entertainment he may also peruse the following +bacchanalian effusion in honour of “Llangollen Ale,” which he +will then be in the mood to enjoy; and as he quaffs this nectar of the +valley, he may thus chaunt its praises, if in a convivial humour, to the +music of a Welsh harp—</p> +<h3>LLANGOLLEN ALE.</h3> +<p>While other poets loudly rant<br /> + About Llangollen’s Vale,<br /> +Let me, with better taste, descant<br /> + Upon Llangollen Ale.</p> +<p>The daughters of the place are fair,<br /> + Its sons are strong and hale:<br /> +What makes them so? Llangollen air?<br /> + No, no!—Llangollen Ale.</p> +<p>And Nature only beautified<br /> + The landscape, to prevail<br /> +On travellers to turn aside<br /> + And quaff Llangollen Ale.</p> +<p>For though the scene might please at first<br /> + As charms would quickly stale;<br /> +While he who tastes will ever thirst<br /> + To drink Llangollen Ale.</p> +<p><!-- page 65--><a name="page65"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +65</span>From rock to rock the Dee may roam,<br /> + And chafe without avail;<br /> +It cannot match its yeasty foam<br /> + Against Llangollen Ale.</p> +<p>The umber-tinted trees that crown<br /> + Bron-vawr’s ridge are pale,<br /> +Contrasted with the nutty brown<br /> + That tints Llangollen Ale.</p> +<p>Nor is the keep of Dinas-bran,<br /> + Though high and hard to scale,<br /> +So elevated as the man<br /> + Who drinks Llangollen Ale.</p> +<p>Thy shattered arch, beside the way,<br /> + Val-crucis, tells a tale<br /> +Of monks who sometimes went astray<br /> + To quaff Llangollen Ale.</p> +<p>And still upon the saintly spot<br /> + The pilgrim may regale<br /> +His fainting spirits with a pot<br /> + Of good Llangollen Ale.</p> +<p>For though the ancient portress may<br /> + Not offer it for sale,<br /> +Yet cheerfully to all who pay<br /> + She gives Llangollen Ale.</p> +<p>And, Eliseg, thy pillar rude<br /> + Is merely—I’ll be bail—<br /> +A monument to him who brewed<br /> + The first Llangollen Ale.</p> +<p>In short, each ruin, stream, or tree,<br /> + Within Llangollen’s Vale,<br /> +Where’er I turn, whate’er I see,<br /> + Is redolent of Ale.</p> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>Liverpool</i>. R. R.</p> +<p><!-- page 66--><a name="page66"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +66</span>The convivial disposition of the monks of the “olden +time” has always been a favourite theme with our romance writers and +“ballad-mongers;” but it would appear from a passage which Mr. +Roscoe quotes, that the cowled brethren of Valle Crucis Abbey did not +content themselves in their hours of festivity with draughts of +“Llangollen Ale.” The wealth of the institution, he +infers, may be judged of by the magnificent hospitality of the monks, who +are described by Owain as having the table usually covered with four +courses of meat, served up in silver dishes, with sparkling claret for +their general beverage.</p> +<blockquote> +<p>“Many have told of the monks of old,<br /> + What a saintly race they were;<br /> +But ’tis most true, that a merrier crew<br /> + Could scarce be found elsewhere;<br /> + For they sung and laughed,<br /> + And the rich wine quaffed,<br /> + And lived on the daintiest cheer.</p> +<p>“And the Abbot meek, with his form so sleek,<br /> + Was the heartiest of them all,<br /> +And would take his place, with a smiling face,<br /> + When the refection bell would call;<br /> + And they sung and laughed,<br /> + And the rich wine quaffed,<br /> + Till they shook the olden hall.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">finis</span>.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">t. thomas</span>, <span +class="smcap">printer</span>, <span class="smcap">eastgate row</span>, +<span class="smcap">chester</span>.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><!-- page 67--><a name="page67"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 67</span>VIEWS, &c.<br /> +<span class="smcap">lately published</span><br /> +BY THOMAS CATHERALL,<br /> +<span class="smcap">eastgate row</span>, <span +class="smcap">chester</span>.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">* * * * *</p> +<p style="text-align: center">PORTRAITS<br /> +<span class="smcap">of the</span><br /> +RIGHT HON. LADY ELEANOR BUTLER AND MISS PONSONBY,<br /> +“<span class="smcap">the ladies of llangollen</span>.”</p> +<p style="text-align: center">Price 2s. 6d.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">* * * * *</p> +<p style="text-align: center">PLAS NEWYDD,<br /> +<span class="smcap">near llangollen</span>,<br /> +The Seat of the late Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">Price 1s. 6d.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">* * * * *</p> +<p style="text-align: center">VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY,<br /> +<span class="smcap">near llangollen</span>.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">Price 1s. 6d.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">* * * * *</p> +<p style="text-align: center">PILLAR OF ELISEG,<br /> +<span class="smcap">near valle crucis abbey</span>.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">Price 1s.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">* * * * *</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">a great variety +of</span><br /> +LITHOGRAPHIC VIEWS IN CHESTER AND NORTH WALES,<br /> +<span class="smcap">constantly on sale</span>.</p> +<h2>Footnotes</h2> +<p><a name="footnote26"></a><a href="#citation26" +class="footnote">[26]</a> “It is, I suppose, needless to say, +that the editor is far from vouching for the accuracy of these +details. The letter in the text gives the gossip as it was heard at +the time.”</p> +<p><a name="footnote58a"></a><a href="#citation58a" +class="footnote">[58a]</a> According to Tanner. Bishop Godwin +saith, <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1100, which is decidedly wrong, if +Madog was the founder.</p> +<p><a name="footnote58b"></a><a href="#citation58b" +class="footnote">[58b]</a> Tanner’s Notitia Monastica.</p> +<p><a name="footnote58c"></a><a href="#citation58c" +class="footnote">[58c]</a> Sive Monasterium.</p> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE "LADIES OF LLANGOLLEN"***</p> +<pre> + + +***** This file should be named 20810-h.htm or 20810-h.zip****** + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/0/8/1/20810 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: The "Ladies of Llangollen" + as Sketched by Many Hands; with Notices of Other Objects + of Interest in "That Sweetest of Vales" + + +Author: John Hicklin + + + +Release Date: March 13, 2007 [eBook #20810] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE "LADIES OF LLANGOLLEN"*** + + + +Transcribed from the 1847 Thomas Catherall edition by David Price, email +ccx074@pglaf.org. We would like to thank Llangollen Library, +Denbighshire, for allowing access to the copy from which this +transcription was made. + + + + + +THE "LADIES OF LLANGOLLEN," +AS SKETCHED BY MANY HANDS; +WITH NOTICES OF +OTHER OBJECTS OF INTEREST +IN +"THAT SWEETEST OF VALES." + + + BY JOHN HICKLIN, + EDITOR OF THE "CHESTER COURANT," AUTHOR OF THE "HISTORY OF CHESTER + CATHEDRAL," ETC. ETC. + + CHESTER: + THOMAS CATHERALL, EASTGATE ROW; + LONDON: WHITTAKER & CO.; ACKERMANN & CO., STRAND; + DUBLIN: T. CRANFIELD. + + MDCCCXLVII. + + TO + MISS LOLLY AND MISS ANDREW, + THE + PROPRIETORS AND OCCUPIERS OF PLAS NEWYDD. + THE FAMED RETREAT OF + "The Ladies of Llangollen," + THE FOLLOWING PAGES + ARE MOST RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, + BY + THEIR OBEDIENT SERVANT, + + THE PUBLISHER. + + + + +THE LADIES OF LLANGOLLEN. + + +From the early age of Cambrian history, when the peerless beauty of the +high-born Myfanwy Fechan awoke the passion and the poesy of her admiring +bard, Howel ap Einion Llygliw, down to the modern days of the more +humble, but not less renowned maiden, "Sweet Jenny Jones;" Llangollen, +"that sweetest of vales," seems to have been associated with +recollections of tender and romantic interest. Our narrative, however, +albeit it relates to the Ladies of Llangollen, refers not to whispered +vows and moonlight serenades between gallant chiefs and damsels of noble +birth; nor to sentimental tales of love in a cottage; but it is rather +devoted to the records of a friendship, whose incidents and +eccentricities have engaged the attention of many eminent _literati_ and +tourists. Most persons who take any interest in the scenery or +topography of North Wales, have either seen or read of that singular +residence, Plas Newydd, at Llangollen, for so many years the home of Lady +Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby. + +About the year 1778, these ladies, impelled by a desire to lead a +secluded life of celibacy, forsook the gay and fashionable circles in +which they had moved; and in their search for a fitting spot, on which to +pass their days together in devoted friendship to each other, and in acts +of benevolence and charity to their neighbours, they visited Llangollen. +Rambling along this charming locality one balmy evening, when the +tranquil beauty of the lovely valley was lighted up by the mild splendour +of the moon, their eyes rested upon a cottage that stood on a gentle +eminence near the village; and there they resolved to fix their abode. +They accordingly purchased the estate; built a new cottage on the site of +the old one, in a remarkably unique and somewhat grotesque style of +architecture; and laid out gardens, pleasure grounds, and rural walks +with grottoes, temples, conservatories, rustic bridges, and other +accessories for enjoying, in the undisturbed quiet of their own domain, +the natural charms of their picturesque retreat. Their mode of life +being singular, and their costume still more so (for they assumed a style +of head-dress resembling that of men, and always wore long cloth coats, +rather like ladies' riding habits), they soon attracted the attention of +the many travellers who passed through North Wales; and as they kept up +an extensive and active correspondence with several eminent authors and +persons of distinction, the "Ladies of Llangollen," for so they were +always designated, made a much greater sensation in their seclusion, than +many less remarkable persons who are constantly living in the business +and bustle of society. Hence many literary pilgrimages were made to the +recluses of Plas Newydd; and the "even tenor" of their way was often +diversified by the calls of the illustrious, the learned, and the +curious; from whom they were as willing to learn what was passing in +politics, literature, and general gossip, as were their visitors desirous +of having a peep within the charmed circle of this mountain solitude. +Their motive for adopting this romantic seclusion is thus stated in +"Steward's Collections and Recollections:"-- + + "Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby were young ladies of beauty + and rank, who loved each other with so true an affection, that they + could never bear the afflicting idea of a separation, which the + marriage of either might occasion. They therefore resolved on lives + of celibacy, and refusing many handsome offers, and remaining deaf to + the persuasions of their friends, they retired to the beautiful Yale + of Llangollen, to enjoy the happiness of each other's company, that + as their friendship began in infancy, it might be perpetuated through + life. The traveller, in passing by the celebrated abode of these + interesting women, must contemplate with a sigh that excessive + friendship which could tear from the bosom of society two of its + brightest ornaments, to bury them in the depths of seclusion:-- + + 'Full many a gem, of purest ray serene, + The dark unfathom'd caves of ocean bear; + Full many a flower is born to blush unseen, + And waste its sweetness on the desert air.' + + "It is on this subject Miss Seward employs her poetical talents, in + her well-known poem of 'Llangollen Vale.'--The following is an + account of these celebrated ladies, extracted from a periodical work + published in the year 1796. 'Miss Butler and Miss Ponsonby are now + retired from the society of men into the wilds (!) of Llangollen in + Wales, where they have resided seventeen years. Miss Butler is of + the Ormond family, and had five offers of marriage, all of which she + rejected. As Miss Ponsonby, her particular friend and companion, was + supposed to have been the bar to her matrimonial union, it was + thought proper to separate them, and Miss Butler was confined. The + two ladies, however, found means to elope together, but being soon + overtaken, were brought back to their respective relations. Many + attempts were again made to draw Miss Butler into marriage, though in + vain; not many weeks after, the ladies eloped again, each having a + small sum with her. The place of their retreat was confided to a + female servant of the house. Here they lived many years, unknown to + any of the neighbouring villagers, otherwise than by the appellation + of the 'Ladies of the Vale.' No persuasions could ever get them from + this retreat. A lady from Ireland told the collector of these + articles the following anecdote relative to these female friends:--An + Irish nobleman (Lord Fingal) happening to be travelling in the + neighbourhood of Llangollen Vale, and having heard much of Lady E. + Butler and Miss Ponsonby, felt a desire to see and converse with + them. But how he could obtain this pleasure (as the ladies seldom or + never saw company, and were fond of a recluse life) was the question. + At length he bethought himself of a method the most likely to answer + the purpose, without the appearance of forwardness or indelicacy. He + sent his servant with the following verbal message:--'Lord Fingal, + travelling in this neighbourhood, sends his respectful compliments to + Miss Butler and Miss Ponsonby, and informs them that he sets out + to-morrow morning for Ireland, and would be happy to be the bearer of + any commands of theirs to that country.' This message had the effect + which his lordship desired. He received, in return, a kind and + friendly invitation to take tea with the ladies, which he, of course, + accepted with much pleasure.--Lord Fingal (the collector's informant + added) was peculiarly charmed with the amiable behaviour of these + interesting enthusiasts of friendship. He found not in them the + gravity, formality, and demureness of virgin recluses, but the ease + of liveliness, and animated conversation of happy, cultivated, and + polished minds." + +On June 2, 1829, death severed the faithful friendship which had existed +for so many years between the eccentric residents at Plas Newydd, by +removing from this earthly scene Lady Eleanor Butler, who had attained +the advanced age of 90; and in December 9, 1831, Miss Ponsonby, who was +seldom seen (except by her domestics) after the decease of her attached +companion, was called to her "long home." They are both buried in the +church-yard of Llangollen, where a stone monument is erected to their +memory. On this record of mortality are inserted the following +memorials:-- + + Sacred to the Memory of + _The Right Honourable_ + LADY ELEANOR CHARLOTTE BUTLER, + Late of Plas Newydd in this Parish. + _Deceased_ 2_nd June_, 1829, + Aged 90 Years. + + _Daughter of the Sixteenth_, _Sister of the Seventeenth_ + _EARLS OF ORMONDE AND OSSORY_. + + Aunt to the late, and to the present + MARQUESS OF ORMONDE. + + _Endeared to her friends by an almost unequalled excellence of + heart_, _and by manners worthy of her illustrious birth_, _the + admiration and delight of a very numerous acquaintance from a + brilliant vivacity of mind undiminished to the latest period of a + prolonged existence_. _Her amiable condescension & benevolence + secured the grateful attachment of those by whom they had been so + long and so extensively experienced_. _Her various perfections + crowned by the most pious and cheerful submission to the Divine + Will_, _can only be appreciated_, _where it is humbly believed_, + _they are_ now _enjoying their Eternal Reward_, _and by her of whom + for more than fifty years_, _they constituted that happiness_, _which + through our Blessed Redeemer_, _she trusts will be renewed_ when THIS + TOMB _shall have closed over its latest tenant_. + + "Sorrow not as others who have no hope." + + 1 _Thess._ _Chap._ 4. _v._ 13. + + SARAH PONSONBY + departed this Life + on the 9th December, 1831, Aged 76. + + _She did not long survive her beloved Companion LADY ELEANOR BUTLER_, + _with whom she had lived in this valley for more than half a century + of uninterrupted friendship_. "_But they shall no more return to + their House_, _neither shall their place know them any more_." + _Job_, _Chap._ 7. _v._ 10. + + _Reader pause for a moment and reflect not on the uncertainty of + human life but upon the certainty of its termination_, _and take + comfort from the assurance that_ "_As it is appointed unto men once + to die_, _but after this the judgment_: _so Christ was once offered + to bear the sins of many_; _and unto them that look for Him_, _shall + He appear the second time without sin unto salvation_." _Heb._ + _Chap._ 9. _v._ 27, 28. + +On the same tombstone is also the following inscription, to the memory of +a faithful servant, who accompanied "the Ladies" from Ireland, the +country of their nativity. + + In Memory of + MRS. MARY CARRYL, + _Deceased 22 November_, 1809. + + This Monument is erected by Eleanor Butler and Sarah + Ponsonby of Plas Newydd in this Parish. + + _Released from Earth and all its transient woes_, + _She whose remains beneath this Stone repose_, + _Steadfast in faith resigned her parting breath_, + _Looked up with Christian joy and smiled in death_. + _Patient_, _Industrious_, _Faithful_, _Generous_, _Kind_, + _Her Conduct left the proudest far behind_;_ + Her Virtues dignified her humble birth_, + _And raised her mind above this sordid earth_. + _Attachment_ (_Sacred bond of grateful breasts_)_ + Extinguished but with life_, _this Tomb attests_, + _Reared by Two Friends who will her loss bemoan_, + _Till with her ashes_--_Here shall rest their own_. + +In 1832, the home of "the Ladies of Llangollen" was sold by auction, by +the late renowned "knight of the hammer," Mr. George Robins, who put +forth the following advertisement, in his characteristic style of +decorative description. + + "IN NORTH WALES. + * * * * * + Particulars and Conditions of Sale + OF THE + LADY ELEANOR BUTLER AND MISS + PONSONBY'S + LITTLE PARADISE + AT LLANGOLLEN, + Of which a more enlarged description will appear + on the other side. + IT IS ALL FREEHOLD, + And it need hardly be remarked that it is in the + most favoured Spot in + NORTH WALES; + Which will be Sold by Auction + BY + * * * * * + MR. GEORGE ROBINS, + * * * * * + AT THE AUCTION MART, LONDON, + On THURSDAY, JUNE 28, 1832, at Twelve o'Clock, + IN ONE LOT, + BY DIRECTION OF THE EXECUTORS. + +May be viewed only with Tickets, and Particulars had Twenty-one Days +prior to the Sale at the Lion Hotel, Shrewsbury; the Inns at Llangollen, +and Corwen; the Great Hotel, Bangor; Waterloo, Liverpool; York House, +Bath; and at Mr. GEORGE ROBINS's Offices, London. + +N.B. The appropriate Furniture, Service of Plate, Elegancies of the +Chateau, extensive Library of Books, and all the valuable Appendages, +will be submitted to Public Competition the latter End of the Month of +July, by Direction of the Executors. + + + +PARTICULARS, &c. + + +Mr. ROBINS is not a little proud that it hath been his good fortune to be +selected by the Executors of the Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby to +direct the sale of their far-famed Domicile. He feels that an apology +will be due to all those who are familiar with its beauties and +peculiarities, for the very imperfect recital which follows, while those +who are yet to be gratified with the sight of it, may imagine he has +drawn some little upon "Fancy's sketch." There is nothing of pretension +in its outward form, it indicates but moderately the comfort that +presides within, inasmuch as will be found congregated all the _agremens_ +pertaining to more consequential habitations. Considerable tact is +conspicuous everywhere; but none more unequivocally displayed than in the +lightsome little Dining Room, contrasted with the gloomy, yet superior +grace of the Library, into which it opens. This room is fitted up in the +Gothic style, the Windows are of ancient painted glass "_shedding their +dim religious light_." + + +THE SALOON OF THE MINERVAS + + +Is the repository of the choice Library. The auxiliary Offices are very +commensurate, the grounds are disposed in such good order as is the +natural consequence of pure taste, the Kitchen Garden is neatness itself, +and the Fruit trees are of the rarest and finest sort, and luxuriant in +their produce. Many and shaded + + GRAVEL WALKS ENCIRCLE THIS ELYSIUM, + +Which is adorned with curious and rare Shrubs and Flowers. It is nothing +in extent but + + EVERYTHING IN GRACE AND BEAUTY, + +United with a great variety of foliage. Upon the Freehold is a +considerable quantity of valuable Timber which overhangs + + A DEEP AND HOLLOW GLEN; + +In its entangled bottom, a frothing brook leaps and clamours o'er the +rough stones in its channel towards + + THE VALE OF LLANGOLLEN. + +To speak of the latter would be quite superfluous, few, if any, are +unacquainted with the wildness and surpassing beauty of the most admired +spot in North Wales. Its contiguity to the little romantic village, +giving the opportunity either to indulge in the gaiety of this place, or +recreate in retirement, (as shall seem best suited to varied +inclination), there are fortunately both auxiliaries to this scene (it +had almost been said of enchantment). The verdant Lawns, dotted with +rare plants, the scenic beauties, and the woodland scenery combined, +plead in extenuation of this lofty tone. The whole is encompassed by +rich meadows, wearing a park-like appearance; held with the freehold, +which is limited to less than Five Acres. A truly beautiful Portico of +carved Oak leads to this + + +DOMICILE OF COMFORT. + + +The whole lower Story of which, on the outside, is covered with the +richest carved Oak, and within which will be found a Dining Room 15 feet +by 15, with handsome Chimney Piece, and carved Oak Doors and Wainscoting. + +A Library, 13 feet by 14 feet 6 inches, with Three Gothic Windows of +carved Oak and splendid stained Glass, exhibiting old Armorial Bearings, +and forming a Bow Window, handsome Chimney Piece of yellow and white +marble, and Recesses fitted up with Gothic Book Cases, and the Doors and +Architrave of old carved Oak. + +An admirably constructed Kitchen, carved Oak Doors and Window Facia, a +very handsome carved Oak Screen and Seat, Grate Ovens, Hearths, Stew +Holes, &c. + +A Housekeeper's Room, beautifully fitted up with carved Oak Presses, Oak +Doors and Window Frames. + +A large Larder with fixed Tables, Hooks, &c. together with an ample +Cellar, both so situated as to be perfectly cool in the hottest weather. + +Wash-house, Scullery, Coal-house, &c., a Staircase of carved Oak, Walls +and Ceilings of the same beautifully ornamented Gothic Architecture. +This is one of the most beautiful things that can be conceived. + + +FIRST FLOOR. + + +An excellent Bed Room, fixed Book Shelves and carved Oak Door, Chimney +Piece and Window Facia, an excellent best Bed Room, Oak Doors, fancy +Cornice, and cross Ceiling Beams of carved Oak, a very handsome Chimney +Piece of the same. + +A light Dressing Room and Closet, Gothic carved Oak Doors, &c. fitted up +with Book Shelves. Over the Staircase a commodious Pantry, Shelves and +Presses for China and Plate, Oak Doors of carved open work. The Sashes +of the Windows are all Metal. + + +ATTIC STORY. + + +Two good Servants' Rooms, and a Store Room. The Premises consist of + + +FOUR GARDENS + + +In the best order, and well stocked with all kinds of Fruit Trees, +Vegetables, and Flowers. + + +FIVE PASTURE FIELDS + + +Of the richest Land, well timbered, Rustic Bridges, Summer Houses of +richly carved Oak, and Rustic Seats, Cow and Calf-house, Garden-house, +Yard, Store-house, &c. An excellent Engine Pump. + +This celebrated Place was the Property, and for more than half a Century +the Residence of the late LADY ELEANOR BUTLER AND MISS PONSONBY. It is +situated upon a Piece of rich Table Land, just above the Port and +Market-town of Llangollen, and commands a View of the Valley of the Dee, +both up and down, is close to Valle Crucis, Dinas Bran, and many of the +most beautiful Scenes in Wales. The Taxes are very light. + + +CONTENTS OF THE FREEHOLD PART OF THE ESTATE. + A. R. P. +House, Offices, 0 3 14 +and Shrubbery +Flower Garden 0 0 27 +Garden House, 0 0 12 +Court and +Poultry ditto +Part of Lawn 0 3 8 +Nursery 0 0 20 +Field 2 0 12 +Total 4 0 13 + +THE LANDS CONTIGUOUS ARE AS FOLLOWS: + + +1A. 1R. 20P. part of Lawn; and 3R. 26P. of Gardens and Shrubbery, held +from year to year, from Ousley Gore, Esq., at a rent of pounds + +3R. 13P. part of Lawn and Flower Garden, held in same manner from Hon. F. +West, at a rent of pounds + +4A. 1R. 30P. being two Fields, the Glen, and a Kitchen Garden, from Hon. +Mr. Mostyn, yearly at a rent of pounds + +1A. 2R. 16P. a Field from J. Dicken, Esq. at a yearly rent of pounds + +TOTAL QUANTITY, 13 ACRES 38 PERCHES." + + * * * * * + +The exaggerated style of this ornate announcement will, doubtless, excite +a smile, and we suspect that some of our readers, who know the locality, +will laugh outright at the very fanciful stretch of imagination, which +led the worthy auctioneer to speak of the "_Port_ of Llangollen." + +The purchasers of the property were Miss Lolly and Miss Andrew, the +present owners and occupiers of Plas Newydd, between whom and the late +"Ladies of Llangollen," an intimate friendship existed. + +In August 1832, Mr. Robins offered by public auction the furniture and +fittings of this unique villa; the following is a copy of the +advertisement, and the catalogue of the sale extended over seventy quarto +pages. + + * * * * * + + "LLANGOLLEN, NORTH WALES. + MR. GEORGE ROBINS + +Has the pleasure most respectfully to announce to the Nobility, Lovers of +the Fine Arts, and those who delight in objects of interest, and indeed +to the Public generally, that having sold "PLAS NEWYDD," he is instructed +by the Executors of + + THE LADY ELEANOR BUTLER + AND + MISS PONSONBY, + +To offer for UNRESERVED COMPETITION, at the Domicile so long hallowed as +the abode of friendship, + +On MONDAY, the 13th day of AUGUST, 1832, +And many succeeding Days, at Eleven for Twelve +o'clock precisely, on each day, + + THE FOLLOWING + INTERESTING AND VALUABLE PROPERTY, + APPERTAINING TO THE RESIDENCE, + +And which for extent, variety and novelty, forms a most brilliant +Assemblage, certainly unexampled in the Annals of Auctions; it having +been congregated by those highly talented Ladies, the fair "MISTRESSES OF +PLAS NEWYDD," during a series of 50 years, aided by their joint taste, +and at considerable expense, including the appropriate + + FURNITURE OF THE CHATEAU, + +Comprising a Drawing Room suite in curtains, glasses, centre, card, and +occasional tables; ottomans, sofas, couches, chairs of various +descriptions, yet in unison, whatnots, cheffioneers; the dining room is +very complete; there are excellent dining tables, chairs, sideboard, +writing tables and library chairs. + + A RANGE OF BOOKCASES & MANY OBJECTS, + ELABORATELY CARVED IN OAK; + A STRONG BOX OF GREAT ANTIQUITY, AND + CARVED, + + It was once the Property of his late Royal Highness + + THE DUKE OF YORK. + + The Furniture of the Bed Chambers and Offices is of a corresponding + character; + + EXCELLENT TABLE AND BED LINEN, + + The equipments of the Garden are of a very superior description; + A VARIETY OF SEATS, CURIOUS ETRUSCAN FLOWER VASES, GARDEN IMPLEMENTS, + ETC. + + A GREEN HOUSE OF GREAT BEAUTY, + ORNAMENTED WITH PAINTED AND STAINED GLASS; + + An extensive Collection of Plants, Dairy and Brewing Utensils; + SERVICES OF CHINA AND GLASS, + In complete sets, for the Table, the Dejeune, the Dessert, &c. &c. + + SIDEBOARD OF PLATE, + + Comprising many rare chased and antique items; dishes and covers, + salvers, waiters, tea and coffee equipages, candlesticks, liquor and + cruet frames, spoons and forks; + + AND A VARIETY OF USEFUL ARTICLES FOR THE SIDEBOARD AND TABLE. + + JEWELLERY AND ELEGANCIES, + + Presenting many pleasing and valuable Ornaments for the person, in + necklaces, car-rings, crosses and brooches, most of them inclosing the + hair of the donors, particularly one of great interest, possessing + + A LOCK OF "MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS" HAIR. + + INTERESTING MISCELLANIES, CURIOSITIES AND RELICS, VIZ. + +Very fine missals, beautifully illuminated; autographs of numerous +renowned personages, particularly a letter by "Charles the First" to Lady +Fisher, from Whitehall, during his confinement; presentation snuff boxes, +many of value, and most with lines of dedication; relics of great +antiquity, and many of modern date, presented by travellers, forming +altogether a Museum of great interest and amusement. + + SEVERAL REMARKABLY FINE CAMEOS AND INTAGLIOS. + + A MODEL OF THE WARWICK VASE, IN SILVER, + + Richly Chased, most exquisite in Workmanship and perfectly Unique. + + Many curious models, bronze busts, and in Sevres bisquit; MUSICAL AND +OTHER ELEGANT CLOCKS, in ormolu; China essence, and flower vases; a large + AEolian harp, telescopes, microscopes, &c. + + AN EXTENSIVE AND VALUABLE LIBRARY OF BOOKS, + + Comprising many Thousand Volumes, elegantly bound in folio, quarto, and + octavo, (large and small.) + + A SERIES OF ETCHINGS. + THE POWER AND PROGRESS OF GENIUS, + EXECUTED BY + THE PRINCESS ELIZABETH, + AND PRESENTED BY HER + TO THE PRINCESS AMELIA; + + AN AUTOGRAPH LETTER FROM + THE PRESENT KING OF FRANCE, + + Accompanying the Memoirs du Duc de Montressor, in scarlet and morocco, a + present from His Majesty to Lady Butler and Miss Ponsonby; with many + other contributions and valuable presents from persons of the highest + rank and literary acquirements to these highly gifted Ladies. + + PICTURES, VALUABLE DRAWINGS, AND PRINTS, + + In frames and in portfolios, comprising a collection the most choice and + valuable, many by the first Artists of the day, Portraits of Kings, +exalted and renowned Characters, and Views of the most celebrated Scenery + of various Countries. A small quantity of + + RARE WINES AND LIQUEURS; + +Viz., Old Port, Sherry, Madeira, Lisbon, Bucellas, Vidonia, Maraschino, +Noyeau, Eau de la Reine, and other estimable Liqueurs. + +*** The entire Sale will be on View at the Chateau from the 4th to the +13th of August. + +The CATALOGUES will be ready Three Weeks prior to the Sale; and may be +had at 3s. each, at the Villa; Phillips's Hotel, and the King's Head, +Llangollen; the Lion, Shrewsbury; the Owen Glendower, Corwen; the Great +Hotel, at Bangor; the Waterloo Hotel, Liverpool; the Hen and Chickens, +Birmingham; York Hotel, Bath; of Mr. Guernon, Molesworth-street, Dublin, +and at Mr. GEORGE ROBINS' Offices, Covent Garden." + + * * * * * + +The present occupiers were also purchasers of many of the rare +"curiosities and relics." + +We shall now proceed to cite the descriptions which have been put upon +record by several distinguished and popular authors, relative to the +"Ladies of Llangollen." + +It appears from Volume VI. of the published Letters of the late Miss Anna +Seward, that a friendly intimacy was cultivated between that clever +_literateur_ and the recluses of Plas Newydd; and it would seem from her +correspondence, that their tastes were very comprehensive and +multifarious; poetry and politics, music and mystery, tragedy and tattle, +being alike acceptable. In a letter addressed to Lady Eleanor Butler and +Miss Ponsonby, under date Lichfield, October 4, 1802, Miss Seward +exclaims:-- + + "Ah! dearest ladies, it is under the pressure of a severe cold, + fierce cough, and inflamed lungs, that I address you. A duty so + delightful had, but for this incapacitating malady, been earlier + paid. + + "I have to thank dear Miss Ponsonby for a manuscript of many verses, + which she had the goodness to make for me in hours so engrossed, amid + engagements so indispensable. I had the honour to receive it as I + was stepping into the chaise which was to convey Mrs. Smith and + myself far from that Edenic region where we had recently passed so + many happy hours; from those bowers in Llangollen Vale, whence the + purest pleasures have so often flowed to my heart and mind, as from a + full and overflowing fountain." + +From Lichfield, Nov. 9, 1802, Miss Seward discourses to Miss Ponsonby on +modern tragedy, and concludes with the following bit of "blue-stocking +gossip:"-- + + "Though I know her not, I am pleased that Mrs. Spencer has had the + good fortune to interest and delight you; for I am always desirous + that men of genius should not do what they are so prone to do, marry + every-day women. + + "Naughty brook, for having behaved outrageously again! That little + stream of the mountain is a true spoiled child, whom we love the + better for its faults, and for all the trouble and alarm they + occasion. You see I presume to involve myself, as if, in some sort, + the interesting little virago belonged to me. Certainly it is my + peculiar pet amongst your scenic children, dear to my taste, as they + are beautiful; to my heart as being yours." + +In a letter from Lichfield, June 13, 1805, Miss Seward begins:-- + + "'With a trembling hand, my beloved Miss Ponsonby, do I take up the + pen to thank you for a thrice kind letter. It had not remained + several weeks unacknowledged, but for this terrible malady of the + head, which has oppressed me with so much severity during the + interim. I think it must soon lay me low. Not at my time of life + does the constitution, pushed from its equipoise by long enduring + disease, regain it amid the struggles. + + "Immediately on receiving your last, I sent for Madoc; by far the + most captivating work of its genuinely inspired author." + +In the same letter the following passage occurs:-- + + "Our young friend Cary has published his translation of Dante's + Inferno. It is thought the best which has appeared, and the sale + goes on well. He presents a copy to yourself and Lady Eleanor, and I + trust you will receive it soon." + +After some literary disquisitions on the Inferno, the Lay of the Last +Minstrel, and Madoc; and an allusion to King George's visit to Lichfield, +the letter thus concludes:-- + + "Present me devoutly to your beloved Lady Eleanor. Most interesting + is your description of that visit, mutually paid to that desolate and + silent Dinbren. How worthy of yourselves that hour of consecration, + with all its tributary sighs! Too happy were the days and weeks + which I passed beneath its roof, and in its beautiful and sublime + environs, to permit such revisitation from me. + + "It would break my heart amid its present consciousness, spread over + with a dark and impervious pall, which can never be drawn away. + + "Dear, and amiable Miss Ponsonby, farewell." + +From Lichfield, October 31st, 1805, we have another letter to Miss +Ponsonby, with the following tremendous opening:-- + + "Nothing, my dear Madam, is so common as hypocrisy and treachery + where property is concerned; but a greater excess of them never + poured their dark currents from the vulgar heart, than in those + circumstances which your last letter narrates. + + "Thus ever be extortionate villany baffled--and long unclouded be the + peace which succeeds to that attempted injury. I cannot express how + much I am obliged that you took the kind trouble of retracing the + road of peril, which had so nearly engulfed a scene, whose beauties + rise perpetually in my sleeping and waking dreams." + +What ever could have happened at Plas Newydd to excite so grand a burst +of tragic passion: here _is_ matter for curious speculation! Then Miss +Seward runs into a not very wise dissertation on politics; then reverts +to literary subjects, of which Horace Walpole's genius is the chief +topic; bemoans her own dizziness of the head; has another touch at Mr. +Pitt; and finally ejaculates "Adieu, dearest Madam! Your beloved Lady +Eleanor will accept my affectionate devoirs!" Why did not Miss Seward go +to Llangollen, to end her days in peace? + +In the lively Memoirs of that celebrated Comedian, the late Mr. Charles +Matthews, we have the following humourous letters, descriptive of the +"Ladies of Llangollen:"-- + + "Oswestry, Sept. 4th. 1820. + + "The dear inseparable inimitables, Lady Butler and Miss Ponsonby, + were in the boxes here on Friday. They came twelve miles from + Llangollen, and returned, as they never sleep from home. Oh, such + curiosities! I was nearly convulsed. I could scarcely get on for + the first ten minutes after my eye caught them. Though I had never + seen them, I instantaneously knew them. As they are seated, there is + not one point to distinguish them from men: the dressing and + powdering of the hair; their well-starched neckcloths; the upper part + of their habits, which they always wear, even at a dinner-party, made + precisely like men's coats; and regular black beaver men's hats. + They looked exactly like two respectable superannuated old clergymen; + one the picture of Boruwlaski. I was highly flattered, as they never + were in the theatre before. + + "The packets now sail at seven in the morning; all _day_-work instead + of night, which is delightful; and the weather is heavenly. People + are here extremely hospitable; but, of all days in the year, Mr. + Ormsby Gore went to Carnarvon assizes (being high sheriff) the day + before I arrived. He only returned yesterday; and almost forced me + away from the inn. I, however, could not conveniently go there, but + have been to call this morning. Such a place! + + "By the by, have you any magnolias in the grounds? if not, get me one + or two. I saw a Portugal laurel, only four years old, full half the + size of that great beauty at Lord Mansfield's; pray have one or two + of them placed by themselves on our new lawn. + + "I have to-day received an invitation to call, if I have time as I + pass, at Llangollen, to receive in due form, from the dear old + gentlemen called Lady Butler and Miss Ponsonby, their thanks for the + entertainment I afforded them at the theatre." + + "Porkington, Oct. 24th. + + "Well, I have seen them, heard them, touched them. The pets, "_the + ladies_," as they are called, dined here yesterday--Lady Eleanor + Butler and Miss Ponsonby, the curiosities of Llangollen mentioned by + Miss Seward in her letters, about the year 1760. I mentioned to you + in a former letter the effect they produced upon me in public, but + never shall I forget the first burst yesterday upon entering the + drawing-room: to find the dear antediluvian darlings, attired for + dinner in the same manified dress, with the Croix de St. Louis, and + other orders, and myriads of large brooches, with stones large enough + for snuff-boxes, stuck in their starched neckcloths! I have not room + to describe their most fascinating persons. I have an invitation + from them, which I much fear I cannot accept. They returned home + last night, fourteen miles, after twelve o'clock. They have not + slept one night from home for above forty years. I longed to put + Lady Eleanor under a bell-glass, and bring her to Highgate for you to + look at." + +In August 1825, Sir Walter Scott visited Llangollen, and the account of +his interview with the famed "ladies of the vale," is given with much +humour and smartness by Mr. Lockhart, in his interesting Memoirs of the +immortal "Author of Waverley."-- + + "Our progress through North Wales produced nothing worth recording, + except perhaps the feeling of delight which everything in the aspect + of the common people, their dress, their houses, their gardens, and + their husbandry, could not fail to call up in persons who had just + been seeing Ireland for the first time; and a short visit (which was, + indeed, the only one he made) to the far-famed "ladies" of + Llangollen. They had received some hint that Sir Walter meant to + pass their way; and on stopping at the inn, he received an invitation + so pressing, to add one more to the long list of the illustrious + visitors of their retreat, that it was impossible for him not to + comply. We had read histories and descriptions enough of these + romantic spinsters, and were prepared to be well amused; but the + reality surpassed all expectation. + + "An extract from a gossiping letter of the following week will + perhaps be sufficient for Llangollen. + + "'Elleray, August 24. + + * * * "'We slept on Wednesday evening at Capel Curig, which Sir W. + supposes to mean the Chapel of the Crags; a pretty little inn in a + most picturesque situation certainly, and as to the matter of toasted + cheese, quite exquisite. Next day we advanced through, I verily + believe, the most perfect gem of a country eye ever saw, having + almost all the wildness of Highland backgrounds, and all the + loveliness of rich English landscape nearer us, and streams like the + purest and most babbling of our own. At Llangollen your papa was + waylaid by the celebrated 'Ladies'--viz. Lady Eleanor Butler and the + Honourable Miss Ponsonby, who having been one or both crossed in + love, forswore all dreams of matrimony in the heyday of youth, + beauty, and fashion, and selected this charming spot for the repose + of their now time-honoured virginity. It was many a day, however, + before they could get implicit credit for being the innocent friends + they really were, among the people of the neighbourhood; for their + elopement from Ireland had been performed under suspicious + circumstances; and as Lady Eleanor arrived here in her natural aspect + of a pretty girl, while Miss Ponsonby had condescended to accompany + her in the garb of a smart footman in buckskin breeches, years and + years elapsed ere full justice was done to the character of their + romance. {26} We proceeded up the hill, and found everything about + them and their habitation odd and extravagant beyond report. Imagine + two women, one apparently seventy, the other sixty-five, dressed in + heavy blue riding habits, enormous shoes, and men's hats, with their + petticoats so tucked up, that at the first glance of them, fussing + and tottering about their porch in the agony of expectation, we took + them for a couple of hazy or crazy old sailors. On nearer inspection + they both wear a world of brooches, rings, &c., and Lady Eleanor + positively _orders_--several stars and crosses, and a red ribbon, + exactly like a K.C.B. To crown all, they have crop heads, shaggy, + rough, bushy, and as white as snow, the one with age alone, the other + assisted by a sprinkling of powder. The elder lady is almost blind, + and every way much decayed; the other, the ci-devant groom, in good + preservation. But who could paint the prints, the dogs, the cats, + the miniatures, the cram of cabinets, clocks, glass-cases, books, + bijouterie, dragon-china, nodding mandarins, and whirligigs of every + shape and hue--the whole house outside and in (for we must see + everything to the dressing-closets), _covered_ with carved oak, very + rich and fine some of it--and the illustrated copies of Sir W.'s + poems, and the joking simpering compliments about Waverley, and the + anxiety to know who McIvor really was, and the absolute devouring of + the poor Unknown, who had to carry off, besides all the rest, one + small bit of literal _butter_ dug up in a Milesian stone jar lately + from the bottom of some Irish bog. Great romance (_i.e._ absurd + innocence of character) one must have looked for; but it was + confounding to find this mixed up with such eager curiosity, and + enormous knowledge of the tattle and scandal of the world they had so + long left. Their tables were piled with newspapers from every corner + of the kingdom, and they seemed to have the deaths and marriages of + the antipodes at their fingers' ends. Their albums and autographs, + from Louis XVIII. and George IV., down to magazine poets and + quack-doctors, are a museum. I shall never see the spirit of + blue-stockingism again in such perfect incarnation. Peveril won't + get over their final kissing match for a week. Yet it is too bad to + laugh at these good old girls; they have long been the guardian + angels of the village, and are worshipped by man, woman, and child + about them.'" + +In July, 1828, the charming vale of Llangollen was visited by a German +Prince (Puckler-Muskau of Prussia), who has thus left on record the +impressions which his excursion in that vicinity excited:-- + + "The most beautiful reality, however, awaited me this morning in + Wales. The vision of clouds seemed to have been the harbinger of the + magnificence of the vale of Llangollen,--a spot which, in my opinion, + far surpasses all the beauties of the Rhine-land, and has, moreover, + a character quite its own, from the unusual forms of the peaked tops, + and rugged declivities of its mountains. The Dee, a rapid stream, + winds through the green valley in a thousand fantastic bendings, + overhung with thick underwood. On each side high mountains rise + abruptly from the plain, and are crowned with antique ruins, modern + country-houses, manufactories, whose towering chimneys send out + columns of thick smoke, or with grotesque groups of upright rocks. + The vegetation is everywhere rich, and hill and vale are filled with + lofty trees, whose varied hues add so infinitely to the beauty and + picturesque effect of a landscape. In the midst of this luxuriant + nature, arises, with a grandeur heightened by contrast, a single + long, black, bare range of mountains, clothed only with thick, dark + heather," and from time to time skirting the high road. This + magnificent road, which from London to Holyhead, is as even as a + 'parquet,' here runs along the side of the left range of mountains, + at about their middle elevation and following all their windings; so + that in riding along at a brisk trot or gallop, the traveller is + presented at every minute with a completely new prospect; and without + changing his position, overlooks the valley now before him, now + behind, now at his side. On one side is an aqueduct of twenty-five + slender arches, a work which would have done honour to Rome. Through + this a second river is led over the valley and across the Dee, at an + elevation of an hundred and twenty feet above the bed of the natural + stream. A few miles further on, the little town of Llangollen offers + a delightful resting place, and is deservedly much resorted to. + + "There is a beautiful view from the churchyard near the inn: here I + climbed upon a tomb, and stood for half an hour enjoying with deep + and grateful delight the beauties so richly spread before me. + Immediately below me bloomed a terraced garden, filled with vine, + honeysuckle, rose, and a hundred gay flowers, which descended to the + very edge of the foaming stream. On the right hand, my eye followed + the crisped waves in their restless murmuring course through the + overhanging thicket; before me rose two lines of wood, divided by a + strip of meadow-land filled with grazing cattle; and high above all, + rose the bare conical peak of a mountain crowned by the ruins of the + old Welsh castle Dinas Bran, or the Crow's Fortress. On the left, + the stone houses of the town lie scattered along the valley; the + river forms a considerable waterfall near the picturesque bridge, + while three colossal rocks rise immediately behind it like giant + guards, and shut out all the more distant wonders of this enchanting + region. + + "Before I left Llangollen I recollected the two celebrated ladies who + have inhabited this valley for more than half a century, and of whom + I had heard once as a child, and again recently in London. You have + doubtless heard your father talk of them;--'si non, voila leur + histoire.' Fifty-six years ago, two young, pretty and fashionable + ladies, Lady Eleanor Butler, and the daughter of the late Lord + Ponsonby, took it in their heads to hate men, to love only each + other, and to live from that hour in some remote hermitage. The + resolution was immediately executed; and from that time neither lady + has ever passed a night out of their cottage. On the other hand, no + one who is presentable travels in Wales unprovided with an + introduction to them. It is affirmed that the 'scandal' of the great + world interests them as much as when they lived in it; and that their + curiosity to know what passes has preserved all its freshness. I had + compliments to deliver to them from several ladies, but I had + neglected to furnish myself with a letter. I therefore sent my card, + determined if they declined my visit, as I was led to fear, to storm + the cottage. Here, as elsewhere, however, in England, a title easily + opened the door, and I immediately received a gracious invitation to + a second breakfast. Passing along a charming road, through a trim + and pretty pleasure-ground, in a quarter of an hour I reached a small + but tasteful gothic cottage, situated directly opposite to Dinas + Bran, various glimpses of which were visible through openings cut in + the trees. I alighted, and was received at the door by the two + ladies. Fortunately I was already prepared by hearsay for their + peculiarities; I might otherwise have found it difficult to repress + some expression of astonishment. Imagine two ladies, the eldest of + whom, Lady Eleanor, a short robust woman, begins to feel her years a + little, being now eighty-three; the other, a tall and imposing + person, esteems herself still youthful, being only seventy-four. + Both wore their still abundant hair combed straight back and + powdered, a round man's hat, a man's cravat and waistcoat, but in the + place of 'inexpressibles,' a short petticoat and boots: the whole + covered by a coat of blue cloth, of a cut quite peculiar,--a sort of + middle term between a man's coat and a lady's riding-habit. Over + this, Lady Eleanor wore, first, the grand cordon of the order of St. + Louis across her shoulder; secondly, the same order around her neck; + thirdly, the small cross of the same in her button-hole, and 'pour + comble de gloire,' a golden lily of nearly the natural size, as a + star,--all, as she said, presents of the Bourbon family. So far the + whole effect was somewhat ludicrous. But now, you must imagine both + ladies with that agreeable 'aisance,' that air of the world of the + 'ancien regime,' courteous and entertaining, without the slightest + affectation; speaking French as well as any Englishwoman of my + acquaintance; and above all, with that essentially polite, + unconstrained, and simply cheerful manner of the good society of that + day, which, in our serious hardworking age of business, appears to be + going to utter decay. I was really affected with a melancholy sort + of pleasure in contemplating it in the persons of the amiable old + ladies who are among the last of its living representatives; nor + could I witness without lively sympathy the unremitting, natural and + affectionate attention with which the younger treated her somewhat + infirmer friend, and anticipated all her wants. The charm of such + actions lies chiefly in the manner in which they are performed,--in + things which appear small and insignificant, but which are never lost + upon a susceptible heart. + + "I began by saying that I esteemed myself fortunate in being + permitted to deliver to the fair recluses the compliments with which + I was charged by my grandfather, who had had the honour of visiting + them fifty years ago. Their beauty indeed they had lost, but not + their memory: they remembered the C--- C--- very well, immediately + produced an old memorial of him, and expressed their wonder that so + young a man was dead already. Not only the venerable ladies, but + their house, was full of interest; indeed it contained some real + treasures. There is scarcely a remarkable person of the last half + century who has not sent them a portrait or some curiosity or antique + as a token of remembrance. The collection of these, a well-furnished + library, a delightful situation, an equable, tranquil life, and + perfect friendship and union,--these have been their possessions; and + if we may judge by their robust old age and their cheerful temper, + they have not chosen amiss." + +During the summer of 1833, Miss Catherine Sinclair, the clever authoress +of "Modern Accomplishments," made an excursion through Wales, and thus +describes her visit to Plas Newydd:-- + + "No eyes but those of a poet are worthy to behold the celebrated + valley of Llangollen, where we next proceeded, after having drawn + largely on the firm of Messrs. Wordsworth, Cowper, Thomson, and Co. + for language to pay a due tribute of admiration to this surpassing + scene,--but who has a genius equal to the majesty of nature? I + thought of the Mahometan who turned back when he observed some such + rich and fertile plain, saying, he had been only promised one + Paradise, and did not wish to enjoy it upon earth. Instead of + following his example, however, we advanced, trying to fancy + ourselves on the banks of the Rhine, to which so many travellers have + compared this beautiful valley. Pray employ your unrivalled taste in + imagining the rugged mountains,--the sparkling river,--the ancient + trees,--the smiling cottages,--the daisied meadows, and the fertile + gardens, all grouped or scattered in the way you think best,--and + invention can suggest nothing more perfect. + + "The valley of Llangollen belonged once to the far-famed Owen + Glendower, mentioned in Shakespeare's Plays, as 'not in the roll of + common men.' His palace stood near this formerly, and here he + maintained a war during twelve years against Henry IV., being a keen + adherent of Richard's; besides which, a private feud against Lord + Grey de Ruthyn whetted his exertions. Peace was, however, about to + be concluded in 1415, between the Welsh chief and the English king, + on very honourable terms, when, as we frequently observe, if any one + attains his utmost earthly desires, Owen died. But though the vale + of Llangollen boasts of such a hero, its chief celebrity arises from + a pair of heroines; and we lost no time in doing homage to their + memories, by scrambling our way up a steep ascent to that well-known + cottage, where the late Lady Eleanor Butler and the Honourable Miss + Ponsonby, during more than half a century, devoted their long lives + so romantically to friendship, celibacy, and the knitting of blue + stockings. It seems only astonishing that this is so very rare an + occurrence, for any one with a friend so richly endowed as my + accomplished correspondent, might feel safe from the possibility of + tiring, and might like to connect her name with so charming a scene + and with so romantic a story. Two successors to these fair hermits + have already sprung up, as substitutes for the original occupants, + following the same exclusive plan of life; and in a moment of + enthusiasm I felt much inclined to knock at the door and ask if they + would make it a trio. In the case of Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss + Ponsonby, very transient visits only were acceptable, and even their + own names remained long concealed, as the friends eloped + clandestinely without confiding to any one, except a maid servant, + the place of their retreat. The cause of this very close seclusion + having been variously conjectured, excited much gossipping curiosity + at the time; but from whatever cause the hermitage originated, here, + embowered in roses, they 'made a solitude and called it peace.' + After discussing the Ladies of Llangollen, our thoughts naturally + diverged into a general consideration, whether the greatest number of + voluntary recluses have relinquished social intercourse on account of + disappointed affection, mortified vanity, or mistaken devotion. + + "What a beau ideal of earthly felicity springs up to the imagination + in taking a glance at the beautiful cottage of Llangollen! all the + every-day vexations and vulgar cares of life, seem there swept aside, + and nothing left for the inhabitants but to lead a life of graceful + leisure, tying up carnations, engrafting roses, gazing at the + splendid scenery around, and talking in perpetual ecstacies about + flowers and perfumes. Almost every grown-up person entertains, at + the out-set of life, notions of happiness with a cottage nearly + similar to that which a little girl enjoys with her first + doll,--dressing it up, altering, arranging, painting, and spoiling + it; but this hermitage really is a singular looking toy. The + building is long and low, so completely cased in richly-carved oak, + that it might be mistaken for an enormous wardrobe. The garden + slopes upwards from the river Dee, and is greatly embellished by a + splendid beech hedge about forty feet high; several charming little + summer houses are sprinkled about the grounds; and in one most + romantic arbour, overlooking the fine cascade, we found a volume + lying open on the seat, which proved to be Southey's Roderick; + suitable reading for such a scene of poetical beauty. + + "An attempt at embellishment has been made, by placing a stuffed bear + near the house, probably in imitation of the Zoological Gardens; but + the idea is rather a failure, and would appear more suitable over the + door of a perfumer's shop, to intimate the presence of bear's grease. + A little gim-crack model of a wooden house is also visible, by way of + an ornament, stuck on the summit of a wooden pillar, but the effect + is disproportioned to all surrounding objects, even more than the + designs on Chinese paper; where men of six feet high are represented + entering mansions half their own height, and birds may be seen flying + larger than either the houses or their inhabitants. In a cottage + built of oak and roofed with thatch, it would be very desirable that + the inhabitants should have some taste for the study of entomology, + as they might find an inexhaustible hunting-field among the wooden + walls and creepers. It has been disputed whether more inconvenience + is endured from the extreme cold of an English winter, or from the + swarms of insects inevitably encountered during the heat of an + Italian summer; but those who inhabit this 'Fairy Palace of the + Vale,' might be able from experience at home, to decide the question. + They could afford sufficient employment for an entire + pin-manufactory, to supply impaling machines for all the specimens of + insects that might be collected and classified here. The birds too, + were so vociferous, that we seemed standing in an aviary, and the + locality would not at all have suited Lady ---, who scolded her + gardener for 'letting the sparrows make such a noise under her + windows in the morning.' It is much to be lamented how many + 'harmonious blackbirds' annually fall victims to the preservation of + cherries; and though the 'four-and-twenty baked in a pie,' might be + rather too loud when they all 'began to sing,' yet a few in a garden + are so enlivening and delightful, that it would be better never to + taste fruit again than to lose such a concert of natural melody as we + enjoyed at Llangollen." + +Mr. Roscoe, in his remarkably interesting "Wanderings in North Wales," is +less enthusiastic than some tourists on the subject of our present +narrative; he says:-- + + "Plas Newydd, for so many years the residence of the fair recluses of + the lovely vale of Llangollen, stands on a gentle eminence close to + the town, ornamented with a carved railing in front, and decorated + with grotesque gables and ornaments. The present proprietors are + also two maiden ladies, who seem disposed to perpetuate the + conventual celebrity of this place; and are certainly not less urbane + than the former possessors, in permitting visitors to gratify their + taste in the inspection of the beautiful grounds. Attended by my + _cicerone_, the gardener, I passed from one object of natural beauty + to another,--the vale of Pen-gwern surrounded by part of the Berwyn + chain, the woody dingle, and brawling brook of the Cyflymed, with + many others, which are supplied with the most gratifying conveniences + for their leisurely inspection. After all, I must confess, filled as + was my mind by the impressions of the majestic scenes with which it + had become familiar, the miniature landscapes supplied by the + situation of Plas Newydd, fell far short of the anticipation I had + formed, and they forcibly recalled the emotion I remembered to have + felt after viewing the mimic hills and vales, and passionless + cascades of the poet Shenstone, in his retreat at the Leasowes, near + Hagley." + +Miss Costello, who made the tour of North Wales in 1844 is even less +complimentary, and is thus smartly satirical in the peculiarities of the +departed "Ladies:"-- + + "One of the great attractions of Llangollen a few years ago was the + romantic story attached to the place and the residence there of Lady + Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby. Pilgrimages were made to this + shrine of friendship, and the ladies were overwhelmed with visitors, + and their cottage filled with offerings. Their tomb is now in the + churchyard, and their cottage let; and very few persons recollect + much about them, or feel any interest in a sentimental history, which + belonged to the last century, and now can only excite a smile at the + eccentricity of its heroines, who, under pretence of retiring from + society, made themselves conspicuous throughout the country. Most of + their accumulated stores were sold by public auction, on the death of + the last of the friends, and the cottage, as it now stands, is by no + means either a rural or picturesque object. It is covered inside and + out with carved wood, some of value, and some quite worthless; and + all that remains of the taste of the former proprietors merely proves + how little was required to please fifty years ago. The trees, + planted by the friends, are now grown high, and shut out all view of + the country; in fact, the whole place has a vulgar, common-place + appearance, and excited in my mind no sort of interest, nor was my + indifference agreeably dispelled by the view of an engraving, hung up + in the little boudoir, representing the two ladies sitting at their + table covered with curiosities, both dressed in masculine habits, and + both frightfully ugly. These portraits, it seems, were taken by an + amateur, by stealth, as neither of 'The Ladies of Llangollen' would + consent to sit, and a lamentable record is it which creates most + unpleasing sensations to the lover of the graceful, beautiful, and + venerable. + + "The 'ladies' were, although singular in the extreme, remarkably + charitable and considerate of the necessities of their neighbours, + and their loss has been greatly felt. They seemed vain and pompous, + but accomplished and intellectual, and were a strange compound of + wisdom and folly, pride and condescension." + +The celebrated Madame de Genlis, in an entertaining miscellany, under the +title of "Souvenirs de Felicie L---," has given the following graphic +narrative of "The Fair Recluses of Llangollen:"-- + + "During my residence in England (says she), nothing struck me so much + as the delicious cottage of Llangollen, in North Wales. It is not a + little extraordinary, that a circumstance so singular and remarkable + as that connected with this retreat, should hitherto have escaped the + notice of all modern travellers. The manner in which I became + acquainted with it was this:--During our long-stay at Bury, a small + company of five or six persons, including ourselves, met every + evening from seven till half-past ten o'clock. We diverted ourselves + with music and conversation, so that the time past very agreeably. + One night friendship happened to be the subject of conversation, and + I declared that I would with pleasure undertake a long journey to see + two persons who had long been united by the bonds of genuine + friendship. 'Well, Madam,' replied Mr. Stuart (now Lord + Castlereagh), go to Llangollen; you will there see a model of perfect + friendship, which will afford you the more delight, as it is + exhibited by two females who are yet young and charming in every + respect. Would you like to hear the history of Lady Eleanor Butler + and Miss Ponsonby?'--'It would give me the greatest pleasure.'--'I + will relate it to you.' At these words the company drew nearer to + Mr. Stuart, we formed a little circle round him, and after + recollecting himself a few moments, he thus began his narrative:-- + + "'Lady Eleanor Butler, was born in Dublin. She was left an orphan + while in her cradle; and possessing an ample fortune, together with + an amiable disposition and a beautiful person, her hand was solicited + by persons belonging to the first families in Ireland. At an early + age she manifested great repugnance to the idea of giving herself a + master. This love of independence, which she never dissembled, did + no injury to her reputation; her conduct has always been + irreproachable, and no female is more highly distinguished for + sweetness of temper, modesty, and all the virtues which adorn her + sex. In tender infancy a mutual attachment took place between her + and Miss Ponsonby, by an accident which made a deep impression on + their imagination. They had no difficulty to persuade themselves + that heaven had formed them for each other; that is, that it had + designed each of them to devote her existence to the other, so that + they might glide together down the stream of life, in the bosom of + peace, the most intimate friendship, and delicious independence. + This idea their sensibility was destined to realize. Their + friendship gradually grew stronger with their years, so that at + seventeen they mutually engaged never to sacrifice their liberty, or + to part from each other. From that moment they formed the design of + withdrawing from the world, and of settling for good in some + sequestered retreat. Having heard of the charming scenery of Wales, + they secretly absconded from their friends for the purpose of fixing + upon their future residence. They visited Llangollen, and there, on + the summit of a mountain, they found a little detached cottage, with + the situation of which they were delighted. Here they resolved to + form their establishment. Meanwhile the guardians of the young + fugitives sent people after them, and they were conveyed back to + Dublin. They declared that they would return to their mountain as + soon as they were of age. Accordingly, at twenty-one, in spite of + the entreaties and remonstrances of their relatives and friends, they + quitted Ireland for ever, and flew to Llangollen. Miss Ponsonby is + not rich, but Lady Eleanor possesses a considerable fortune. She + purchased the little hut and the property of the mountain, where she + built a cottage, very simple in external appearance, but the interior + of which displays the greatest elegance. On the top of the mountain + she has formed about the house a court and flower-garden; a hedge of + rosebushes is the only enclosure that surrounds this rural + habitation. A convenient carriage-road, the steepness of which has + been diminished by art, was carried along the mountain. On the side + of the latter some ancient pines of prodigious height were preserved; + fruit trees were planted, and a great quantity of cherry trees in + particular, which produce the best and finest cherries in England. + The two friends likewise possess a farm for their cattle, with a + pretty farm-house and a kitchen-garden at the foot of the mountain. + In this sequestered abode these two extraordinary persons, with minds + equally cultivated, and accomplishments equally pleasing, have now + resided ten years, without ever having been absent from it a single + night. Nevertheless they are not unsociable, they sometimes pay + visits to the neighbouring gentry, and receive with the greatest + politeness travellers on their way to or from Ireland, who are + recommended to them by any of their old friends.' + + "This account strongly excited my curiosity, and produced the same + effect on Mademoiselle d'Orleans and my two young companions. We + determined the same night to set out immediately for Llangollen, by + the circuitous route of Brighton, Portsmouth, and the Isle of Wight. + It was the latter end of July when we arrived at Llangollen. This + place has not the rich appearance of the English villages in general, + but nothing can equal the cleanliness of the houses, and among the + lower classes of any country this is an infallible proof of + abundance. Llangollen, surrounded with woods and meadows, clothed + with the freshest verdure, is situated at the foot of the mountain + belonging to the two friends, which there forms a majestic pyramid + covered with trees and flowers. We arrived at the cottage, the only + object of our journey, an hour before sunset. + + "The two friends had received in the morning by a messenger the + letter which Mr. Stuart had given me for them. We were received with + a grace, a cordiality, and kindness, of which it would be impossible + for me to give any idea. I could not turn my eyes from those two + ladies, rendered so interesting by their friendship and so + extraordinary on account of their way of life. I perceived in them + none of that vanity which takes delight in the surprize of others. + Their mutual attachment, and their whole conduct evince such + simplicity, that astonishment soon gives way to softer emotions; all + they do and say breathes the utmost frankness and sincerity. One + circumstance which I cannot help remarking is, that after living so + many years in this sequestered retreat, they speak French with equal + fluency and purity. I was likewise much struck with the little + resemblance there is between them. Lady Eleanor has a charming face, + embellished with the glow of health; her whole appearance and manner + announce vivacity and the most unaffected gaiety. Miss Ponsonby has + a fine countenance, but pale and melancholy. One seems to have been + born in this solitude, so perfectly is she at her ease in it; for her + easy carriage shews that she has not retained the slightest + recollection of the world and its vain pleasures. The other, silent + and pensive, has too much candour and innocence for you to suppose + that repentance has conducted her into solitude, but you would + suppose that she still cherishes some painful regrets. Both have the + most engaging politeness, and highly-cultivated minds. An excellent + library, composed of the best English, French, and Italian authors, + affords them an inexhaustible source of diversified amusement and + solid occupation; for reading is not truly profitable except when a + person has time to read again. + + "The interior of the house is delightful on account of the just + proportion and distribution of the apartments, the elegance of the + ornaments and furniture, and the admirable view which you enjoy from + all the windows; the drawing-room is adorned with charming + landscapes, drawn and coloured from nature, by Miss Ponsonby. Lady + Eleanor is a great proficient in music; and their solitary habitation + is filled with embroidery by them both, of wonderful execution. Miss + Ponsonby, who writes the finest hand I ever saw, has copied a number + of select pieces in verse and prose, which she has ornamented with + vignettes and arabesques, in the best taste, and which form a most + valuable collection. Thus the arts are cultivated there with equal + modesty and success, and their productions are admired with a feeling + that is not experienced elsewhere; the spectator observes with + delight that so much merit is secure in this peaceful retreat from + the shafts of satire and envy, and that talents unaccompanied with + ostentation and pride, have there never coveted any suffrages but + those of friendship. + + "This evening was a scene of enchantment for me; not one painful + reflection disturbed its felicity. I retired to rest, but my + imagination was so fully occupied with what I had seen and heard, + that my thoughts kept me for a long time awake. At length, I was + just falling asleep, when I was roused by the most melodious sounds. + I listened in great astonishment; it was not music, but an indistinct + and celestial harmony which penetrated my very soul. I discovered + that it was produced by a violent wind which had just then arisen; my + ear distinguished the distant noise and the whistling usually heard + on such occasions, but the winds changing their nature as they + approached this asylum of peace and friendship, formed only the most + enchanting harmony as they met its trees and its walls. I was + strongly disposed to believe in prodigies; but nevertheless I was + determined to investigate the nature of this, but I durst not rise + for fear of waking Mademoiselle d'Orleans, who was extremely fatigued + with her journey, and slept in a bed close by mine. The tempest + suddenly ceased, and the harmonious sounds appeared to be carried to + a distance by the retiring winds. I raised my head towards the + heavens to catch the last tones of this celestial concert, which + seemed to be lost in the clouds. I listened with transport like St. + Cecilia; if I had had my harp in my hands I should certainly have + dropped it; at that moment all terrestrial music appeared totally + spiritless and insipid. + + "Next morning the whole mystery was explained. On opening my window + I found in the balcony an Eolian harp, an instrument with which I was + then unacquainted, and which, when the wind blows upon it, produces + such enchanting sounds. + + "I walked out the whole forenoon with the two friends; nothing can + equal the charms of the surrounding scenery, and of the prospects + which the mountain whose summit they occupy commands; at this + elevation they appear the queens of all the beautiful country at + their feet. Towards the north they have a view of the village and of + a wood; to the south a long river washes the foot of the mountain, + and fertilizes meadows of prodigious extent, beyond which is + discovered an amphitheatre of hills, covered with intermingled trees + and rocks. In the midst of this wild scenery rises a majestic tower, + which might be taken for the Pharos of this coast, but is only the + ruins of a magnificent castle, once the residence of the prince of + the country. This solitary region was doubtless at that time + flourishing and populous, now it is abandoned to nature alone; + nothing is now to be seen in it but herds of goats, and a few + scattered herdsmen sitting upon the rocks and playing upon the Irish + harp. Facing this rustic and melancholy scene the two friends have + raised a verdant seat, shaded by two poplars, and thither they told + me they often repair in summer to read together the poems of Ossian. + + "The ride from Wrexham to Llangollen is remarkable for the sublimity + and awful grandeur of the prospects; the most prominent feature in + the landscape is a high and stupendous chain of mountains, sometimes + swelling into the clouds, or gently shelving into the vallies, around + which they form a wide amphitheatre; and by their elevations afford + shelter, and tend to fertilize the vales at their bases. I was led + to exclaim-- + + 'I love thy mountain's giant forms! + Darkly clad in gath'ring storms; + I love thy rocks, down whose steep sides, + With foaming, dizzying crash, + Thunder the torrent's tan-brown tides, + And roaring whirlwinds dash.' + + "For, + + ''Mid clouds and crags, dark pools and mountains drear, + The wild-wood's silence, and the billow's roll, + Great Nature rules, and claims with brow austere, + The shudd'ring homage of the inmost soul.' + + "From the craggy sides of the rocks descend the tributary streams to + supply the river which divides the dales, and which dashes its + foaming impetuous course along the banks, often edged with broken + crags and grey rocks, or is seen winding in a deeper and more + peaceful stream through dark and silent groves, spreading their + autumnal shades over the surface, or often glistening through fields + of verdure and cultivated spots of ground; here foaming and chafing + some dark ruin's tottering base, there reflecting the modern villa or + the humble hamlet in its silver bosom, and by the variety of scenery + giving new beauty to the whole. + + "The cottages, bridges, villas, towers, rocks, and dark ruins of + Gothic antiquity, are in unison with the surrounding objects, and the + attention is frequently called from beholding the beauties of nature + to pause on the works of art. In the centre of the long valley which + stretches to Llangollen, is erected a most stupendous aqueduct, by + which the canal is conveyed from a lofty hill over a wide chasm in + the mountains; the length of this amazing work of art and human + industry, is, I was informed, three hundred yards, the aqueduct + composed of cast iron, is supported on fifty stone pillars and + arches, and the view of this immense pile bestriding the valley is + grand beyond description, and contributes much to heighten the effect + produced by the whole scenery; for here grandeur and sublimity sit + enthroned on the mountains, and solitude and human privacy, with + their attendant charms, have fixed their abode in the vallies. + + "The beauties of the Vale of Llangollen certainly exceed every idea I + had formed of their grandeur, and on my arrival at the inn in the + village, the muse embodied the following + + "LINES ON VISITING LLANGOLLEN. + + 'Much have I heard, Llangollen, of thy scenes, + And the wild landscapes of thy mountain greens, + The rushing streams, that dash thy rocks among, + Thy snow-topt mountains, thy wild harper's song, + Thy fruitful vallies deep, where oft between + Rise hamlets, rocks, and tow'rs to grace the scene. + Where solitude and calm contentment dwell, + And contemplation roves each rocky dell, + Or climbs the snow-topt mountain's cloudy height + To watch the sinking shades of evening light; + To view the foaming torrent's misty shower, + To list' the brooding tempest's rising roar, + Mark the blue mists the silvery moonbeams shroud, + Or golden ev'ning edge the dusky cloud; + Yet, till this hour my doubting heart has thought + Thy glowing scenes by fancy's pencil wrought, + Or drest in poetry's enchanting hues, + And all the flatt'ring colours of the muse; + But if in winter's storms thy beauties charm, + If the cold breast thy varying landscapes warm, + In summer's smiles it surely stands confest, + That he who draws thee fairest paints thee best.'" + +Having thus seen the various amusing and interesting records, which so +many of our most popular authors have given to the world, respecting the +once famous "Ladies of Llangollen," curiosity induced us to pay a visit +to this much frequented abode of ancient friendship. Accordingly in +March, 1847, we made an excursion, in company with our respected +Publisher, to the celebrated retreat of Plas Newydd; and through the +favour of Mr. Jacques, an intelligent and hospitable gentleman resident +at Pen-y-bryn, Llangollen, we were introduced to the present owners, Miss +Lolly and Miss Andrew, and met with a most courteous reception. Their +manners are easy, dignified, and lady-like; totally free from all +affectation, and in nowise marked by that frigid stateliness and pedantic +formality, which a censorious world proverbially attributes to a state of +elderly maidenhood. In all its characteristic particulars, the cottage +remains in the same condition as in the days of Lady Eleanor and Miss +Ponsonby; but its present possessors have introduced several judicious +alterations in the interior, which, though carried out in strict harmony +with the general design of its former occupants, exhibit an improved +taste and a cultivated judgment. The house is delightfully situated, and +is well-adapted to realize the notion of the poet-- + + "'Tis pleasant from the loop-holes of retreat + To look at such a world; to see great Babel + And not feel the crush;" + +but the site is not well chosen for developing the many charming +prospects which the vale of Llangollen affords; and, indeed, the entire +arrangements, both of dwelling and pleasure grounds, seem to be +suggestive rather of another poetical maxim in great favour with +anchorites and recluses--"Retire, the world shut out." We cannot agree +with Miss Seward, who describes this hermitage as "a retreat which +breathes all the witchery of genius, taste, and sentiment." It is rather +fantastical than tasteful, and savours more of eccentricity than +sentiment. In the Gothic entrance, there are undoubtedly many fine +specimens of carved wood-work, some of which we suspect were the plunder +of despoiled convents and churches during the continental wars of the +last century; but classical, mythological, and scripture subjects are +intermingled in odd confusion, and with "most admired disorder." The +rooms are small and comfortable, with very low ceilings; the prospect +from the dining-room is flat and tame; but several of the miniature +views, as seen through small openings of the painted window in the +library, are remarkably picturesque, and reveal themselves with a +pleasing effect to the eye of the artist or the admirer of natural +scenery. The cottage yet contains many articles of furniture and choice +rarities, which belonged to the former owners; whose portraits adorn the +fanciful little boudoir. Disguised as they are by the strangeness of +their costume, we should not like to hazard any opinion of our own as to +their personal charms; especially as Miss Seward has been so minutely +particular in telling us "all about them." That clever and amusing +gossip says of the "ladies," whom she rhapsodizes as "the enchantresses" +of Plas Newydd-- + + "Lady Eleanor is of middle height, and somewhat beyond the + _embonpoint_ as to plumpness; her face round and fair, with the glow + of luxuriant health. She has not fine features, but they are + agreeable; enthusiasm in her eye, hilarity and benevolence in her + smile. Exhaustless is her fund of historic and traditionary + knowledge, and of every thing passing in the present eventful period. + She expresses all she feels with an ingenuous ardour, at which, the + cold-spirited beings stare. I am informed that both these ladies + read and speak most of the modern languages. Of the Italian poets, + especially of Dante, they are warm admirers. Miss Ponsonby, somewhat + taller than her friend, is neither slender nor otherwise, but very + graceful. Easy, elegant, yet pensive, is her address and manner. + + "Her voice, like lovers' watched, is kind and low." + + A face rather long than round, a complexion clear but without bloom, + with a countenance which, from its soft melancholy, has a peculiar + interest. If her features are not beautiful, they are very sweet and + feminine. Though the pensive spirit within permits not her lovely + dimples to give mirth to her smile, they increase its sweetness, and, + consequently, her power of engaging the affections. We see, through + her veil of shading reserve, that all the talents and accomplishments + which enrich the mind of Lady Eleanor, exist, with equal powers, in + this her charming friend." + +We commend these pen and ink portraits to the notice of our readers +without controversy; and the more especially, as they may gratify their +curiosity still more in this matter, by purchasing from our Publisher a +well-executed engraving representing, with all due fidelity, excellent +likenesses of the "Ladies of Llangollen;" each, as _Hamlet_ would say, +"in her habit as she lived." + +Among the treasured relics which the cottage now contains, we were shewn +the veritable crutch-headed walking stick, on which Lady Eleanor used to +support her aged steps, when rambling through the village on errands of +mercy, or sauntering among the pleasure grounds of her mountain-home; and +we also saw and handled the broad-brimmed hat worn by Miss Ponsonby, +whose head we should judge to have been small and finely formed. O for +the genius of a Seward, to have written an ode to that venerable +head-dress! and in good truth, one might almost fancy we heard the spirit +of that amiable enthusiast, bidding us, like _Gesler's_ captain, "bow +down and honour it." Seriously, every little particular connected with +the history and habits of the departed "Ladies" is so anxiously prized at +Llangollen, that we felt very grateful for the prompt kindness with which +the present worthy possessors of the unique residence contributed to our +information and amusement. We may therefore tell, for the advantage of +such of our readers as associate their notions of "old maids" with an +affectionate regard for the canine and feline tribes, that Lady Eleanor +Butler possessed a favourite dog of the turnspit-breed, called "Trust;" +that Miss Ponsonby had a small white poodle, named "Busy;" and that they +had a joint interest in a popular cat, answering to the name of +"Meggins;" all of which four-footed domestics were especial pets in their +garden walks or at their quiet fire-side. + +The little domain of Plas-Newydd, if situated in some localities, would +be esteemed a miniature paradise, but planted as it is amidst so many +scenes of surpassing loveliness, its limited and somewhat formal +characteristics suffer by comparison. The arrangement of the ground +might have suited the peculiar tastes and habits of the "recluses;" but +it is certainly very far inferior to the picturesque effect, which +landscape gardening in the present day could _there_ produce. The +prettiest portions of these much-vaunted precints are the shady knoll, +overhanging a romantic glen, down which a brawling streamlet leaps its +frothing course over a craggy bed; and the rural walk by the gothic +fount, into which a pellucid mountain-rill pours its refreshing waters. +Among the remembrances of former days, is the effigy of a guardian +'lion,' (which, under the name of a 'bear,' has been noted by an author +whom we have quoted;) the melancholy quadruped is now considerably "used +up," and excites a laugh at the burlesque on the monarch of the forest, +which his attenuated figure and shrivelled hide present. Plas-Newydd is +unquestionably a delightful residence; and its adjacent pleasure grounds +and gardens afford most inviting facilities for those who love to make a +practical study of horticulture; to ruminate amidst its tranquil retreats +over the published works of some favourite authors; or to "meditate," +like the patriarch, at "even-tide" on the wonders and glories of Eternal +Power. Apart therefore from the romantic recollections, with which the +singular history of the "Ladies of Llangollen" has invested this fair +spot of earth, it presents to the tourist certain attractions, which the +reflective explorer of the lovely vallies of the Dee should not neglect. +We heard from some of the older inhabitants several anecdotes of the +benevolence and charity of the departed "Ladies," whose memory is most +affectionately cherished in the neighbourhood. It has been said that on +religious subjects, these ancient friends were divided in opinion; one +being a Roman Catholic and the other a Protestant; but the parish clerk, +an intelligent old man who knew them well, assured us that they both +regularly attended the services in the Church of Llangollen, and received +the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper, both there, and at their own cottage +during the last illness of Lady Eleanor Butler, from the vicar. With all +their eccentricity, their attachment to each other must have been of a +pure, unchanging, and fervent character; else would they never have +forsworn in the full bloom of youth and beauty, the gay fascinations or +the elegant ease of courtly life for the dull monotony of seclusion and +celibacy. Both in feeling and intellect, Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss +Ponsonby were no common persons; it may of a truth be said of them, that +"they lived to a good old age and died honoured and respected;" and if +ever the beings of a brighter and holier sphere are permitted to cast +back occasional glimpses on the world which they have left, their spirits +may sometimes hover over the sacred spot where their ashes repose, and +haunt the moon-lit banks of the silvery Dee, in its murmuring current by +the lowly church-yard of Llangollen. + + + + +VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY. + + +The picturesque ruins of this venerable structure stand in a lovely and +sequestered valley, about two miles from Llangollen, and are approached +by as delightful and inviting road as ever rambler need wish to tread. +The Rev. John Williams, in his learned description of this ancient +monastery, says: + + "The abbey was founded about the year 1200, {58a} and in conformity + with the rule {58b} of the Cistercian fraternity, was dedicated to + the Blessed Virgin Mary. The names by which it was generally known + to the Welsh had, however, a particular reference to the locality + where it was situated: thus, 'Monachlog y Glyn,' 'Monachlog Glyn + Egwestl,' 'Monachlog Pant y Groes.' And in Latin it was called + 'Abbatia {58c} de Valle Crucis,' and 'Abbatia de Llanegwest.' + + "The remains of the abbey extant at the present day consist of the + church, and of a building on the southern side, part of which seems + to have formed the Abbot's lodgings, and part to have been the + refectory, with the dormitory above. The church is a cruciform + building, of which the northern side has been almost entirely + destroyed, and without any vestige remaining of its roof, except in + the eastern aisle of the southern transept. In the midst of these + hallowed precincts the rubbish is heaped up to a great height, + caused, probably, by the fall of the northern wall, and by the + remains of the roof:--the pavement, if there be any of it subsisting, + is entirely concealed, and ash-trees grow luxuriantly upon the + mounds, adding to the picturesque effect of the ruin, but saddening + the heart of the antiquary. We are unable, therefore, to determine + the number of piers that formed the side of the nave; but from the + space between the western end and the central piers, at the + intersection of the transepts, we should conjecture this number to + have been three, thus making four arches on either side. The choir + was without aisles, but each transept had one on the eastern side, + which seems to have been used as a chapel. The oldest portion of the + church is the choir; the eastern end of which was lighted by three + bold and lofty lancet arches, rising from no great height above the + level of the pavement to half the altitude of the building, and by + two proportionably smaller lancets above. In the apex of the gable + was probably a small aperture, but of this no trace remains; the + gable is mutilated, and we judge only from the analogy of the western + end of the nave. In each of the northern and southern walls of the + choir is a lancet window; and two similar windows, but lower in + height, occur in each of the eastern walls of the transept aisles. + High up in the southern wall, also, is to be seen a small loophole, + communicating with a passage which leads over the vaulting of the + southern transept aisle to the abbatial building adjoining the + church. This passage is now blocked up, but it is conjectured to + have served either as a closet wherein the abbot could attend service + privately, or else as a place of confinement or penitence for the + monks. The architecture of this portion of the church corresponds in + its style with the date of the foundation,--the commencement of the + thirteenth century: the lancets, with their mouldings, are strictly + of that date, and the capitals of the shafts, which are worked with + great boldness, are of the late Norman period, rather than of that + which is called Early-pointed." + + "Of all that portion of the nave which occurs between the central + tower and the western end, nothing remains but the outer wall of the + southern aisle; the western end of it, however, still stands, and is + a beautiful example of the richest and purest architecture of the + middle of the thirteenth century. Over a central doorway, with + deeply recessed mouldings and shafts, and with a bold dog-tooth + ornament, each projection of which is elegantly carved into four + converging fleurs-de-lys, occur three lofty windows, the central one + taller than those at its sides--all with remarkably bold splays, both + internally and externally, enriched with shafts and mouldings. The + central window appears to have been of only one light, though broad, + and to have had its arch occupied by a foliation of six cusps, and + therefore of seven recesses,--the foliating spaces being solid. The + side windows are each of two lights, the principal arch-head being + solid, but pierced with a single aperture divided into six + foliations. Above these three windows runs a kind of framework, + analagous in some respects to that at the eastern end of the choir. + The gable is pierced above these windows with a small but beautiful + wheel-window of eight pointed compartments, each trifoliated; the + divisions being moulded in one order, and converging to a central + ring, itself pierced to admit the light. Above all is a square + quatrefoliated aperture in the very apex of the gable. On the + external face of the western end are two bold buttresses of a single + stage, that on the south-eastern side being pierced with loopholes + for a circular staircase formed in the thickness of itself and the + wall." + +The Abbey of Valle Crucis was dissolved in the year 1535, and is said to +have been the first of the Welsh monasteries which underwent the doom of +abolition. + + Romantic Abbey! hallow'd be the rest + Of those, who rear'd thee in this wild green vale + A temple lovely as the place is blest-- + And stern as beautiful:--but words would fail + To paint thy ruin'd glories, though the gale + Of desolation sweeps thro' thy hoar pile, + And waves the long grass thro' thy cloisters pale + Where the dark ivy scorns day's garish smile, + And weed-grown fragments crown thy desecrated aisle. + + * * * * + + How sweet the sounds!--whose soft enchantments rose + 'Mid those wild woodlands at the matin prime-- + Or when the vesper song at evening's close + Wafted the soul beyond the cares of time, + To that Elysium of a brighter clime + Where thro' heaven's portals golden vistas gleam, + And the high harps of Seraphim sublime + Came o'er the spirit like a prophet's dream, + Till faded earth away on glory's endless beam. + + Oft the proud feudal chief, whom human law + Or kingly pow'r could bind not, nor control, + Has paus'd before thy gates in holy awe, + And felt religion's charm subdue his soul-- + The heart that joy'd to hear the savage howl + Of battle on the breeze, has soften'd been-- + List'ning the hymns of peace that sweetly stole + O'er this lone vale, where fancy's eye hath seen + Forms bright and angel-like glide thro' thy vistas green: + + And angel forms here at thy altar knelt, + Fair dames, and gentle maidens whose bright eyes + The sternest heart of warrior-mould could melt, + Soft'ning grim war with gen'rous sympathy-- + Pleading, like pity wafted from the skies + To quell the stormy rage of savage man: + And hence the gentle manners had their rise-- + Hence knights for lady's praise all dangers ran-- + And thus, the glorious age of chivalry began. + +The Abbey derives its name (the Vale of the Cross) from a sepulchral +monument commonly called "THE PILLAR OF ELISEG," which stands on an +ancient tumulus in the middle of this beautifully secluded glen. It was +erected by Cyngen ab Cadell Dryrnllug, in memory of his great grandfather +Eliseg, whose son Brochmail Ysgythrog, grandfather of the founder of this +rude monument of filial veneration, was engaged in the memorable border +wars at the close of the sixth century; and was defeated at the Battle of +Chester, A.D. 607. During the great rebellion this pillar was thrown +down by Oliver Cromwell's "Reformers," who in their fiery zeal for +destruction mistook it for a "Popish Cross;" and it remained for more +than a century in its broken recumbent condition, when it was restored by +the patriotism and intelligence of Mr. Lloyd of Trevor Hall, and replaced +upon its pedestal with a suitable memorial to record the fact. It now +forms an interesting relic of antiquity, and is probably the oldest +British Cross (bearing a carved inscription) which exists in these +islands. That said inscription has long been a puzzle to the learned +investigator of archaeological remains. + +Having wandered through the verdant meads of the "happy valley," the +adventurous tourist may probably wish to climb the lofty hill, which is +crowned by the romantic ruins of the Castle of Dinas Bran. This +memorable fortress of the past, is a remarkable object from all parts of +the vale; for whose safety and defence it was long the abode of a line of +chiefs renowned in Cambrian lore. The view from the summit is +exceedingly picturesque, grand, and imposing; and naturally prompts the +exclamation of the Poet of the Seasons-- + + "Heavens! what a goodly prospect spreads around." + +On descending the mountain-path, the traveller may perchance look round +for a comfortable resting-place and good refreshment; he will readily +find both, either at the Hand, or the King's Head Hotel. In the album of +the latter house of entertainment he may also peruse the following +bacchanalian effusion in honour of "Llangollen Ale," which he will then +be in the mood to enjoy; and as he quaffs this nectar of the valley, he +may thus chaunt its praises, if in a convivial humour, to the music of a +Welsh harp-- + + + +LLANGOLLEN ALE. + + +While other poets loudly rant + About Llangollen's Vale, +Let me, with better taste, descant + Upon Llangollen Ale. + +The daughters of the place are fair, + Its sons are strong and hale: +What makes them so? Llangollen air? + No, no!--Llangollen Ale. + +And Nature only beautified + The landscape, to prevail +On travellers to turn aside + And quaff Llangollen Ale. + +For though the scene might please at first + As charms would quickly stale; +While he who tastes will ever thirst + To drink Llangollen Ale. + +From rock to rock the Dee may roam, + And chafe without avail; +It cannot match its yeasty foam + Against Llangollen Ale. + +The umber-tinted trees that crown + Bron-vawr's ridge are pale, +Contrasted with the nutty brown + That tints Llangollen Ale. + +Nor is the keep of Dinas-bran, + Though high and hard to scale, +So elevated as the man + Who drinks Llangollen Ale. + +Thy shattered arch, beside the way, + Val-crucis, tells a tale +Of monks who sometimes went astray + To quaff Llangollen Ale. + +And still upon the saintly spot + The pilgrim may regale +His fainting spirits with a pot + Of good Llangollen Ale. + +For though the ancient portress may + Not offer it for sale, +Yet cheerfully to all who pay + She gives Llangollen Ale. + +And, Eliseg, thy pillar rude + Is merely--I'll be bail-- +A monument to him who brewed + The first Llangollen Ale. + +In short, each ruin, stream, or tree, + Within Llangollen's Vale, +Where'er I turn, whate'er I see, + Is redolent of Ale. + + _Liverpool_. R. R. + +The convivial disposition of the monks of the "olden time" has always +been a favourite theme with our romance writers and "ballad-mongers;" but +it would appear from a passage which Mr. Roscoe quotes, that the cowled +brethren of Valle Crucis Abbey did not content themselves in their hours +of festivity with draughts of "Llangollen Ale." The wealth of the +institution, he infers, may be judged of by the magnificent hospitality +of the monks, who are described by Owain as having the table usually +covered with four courses of meat, served up in silver dishes, with +sparkling claret for their general beverage. + + "Many have told of the monks of old, + What a saintly race they were; + But 'tis most true, that a merrier crew + Could scarce be found elsewhere; + For they sung and laughed, + And the rich wine quaffed, + And lived on the daintiest cheer. + + "And the Abbot meek, with his form so sleek, + Was the heartiest of them all, + And would take his place, with a smiling face, + When the refection bell would call; + And they sung and laughed, + And the rich wine quaffed, + Till they shook the olden hall." + + FINIS. + + T. THOMAS, PRINTER, EASTGATE ROW, CHESTER. + + VIEWS, &c. + LATELY PUBLISHED + BY THOMAS CATHERALL, + EASTGATE ROW, CHESTER. + + * * * * * + + PORTRAITS + OF THE + RIGHT HON. LADY ELEANOR BUTLER AND MISS PONSONBY, + "THE LADIES OF LLANGOLLEN." + + Price 2s. 6d. + + * * * * * + + PLAS NEWYDD, + NEAR LLANGOLLEN, + The Seat of the late Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby. + + Price 1s. 6d. + + * * * * * + + VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY, + NEAR LLANGOLLEN. + + Price 1s. 6d. + + * * * * * + + PILLAR OF ELISEG, + NEAR VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY. + + Price 1s. + + * * * * * + + A GREAT VARIETY OF + LITHOGRAPHIC VIEWS IN CHESTER AND NORTH WALES, + CONSTANTLY ON SALE. + + + + +Footnotes + + +{26} "It is, I suppose, needless to say, that the editor is far from +vouching for the accuracy of these details. The letter in the text gives +the gossip as it was heard at the time." + +{58a} According to Tanner. Bishop Godwin saith, A.D. 1100, which is +decidedly wrong, if Madog was the founder. + +{58b} Tanner's Notitia Monastica. + +{58c} Sive Monasterium. + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE "LADIES OF LLANGOLLEN"*** + + +******* This file should be named 20810.txt or 20810.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/0/8/1/20810 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. 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