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The Project Gutenberg eBook of Encyclopedia of Needlework, by Thérèse De Dillmont.
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<p><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221"></a></p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/411.jpg" width="600" height="157" alt="CROCHET LACE.—CLOSE LEAVES AND BARS WITH PICOTS" title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Crochet lace.—Close leaves and bars with picots</span>
</div>
<hr style="width: 15%;" />
<h2><a name="Crochet_Work" id="Crochet_Work"></a>Crochet Work.</h2>
<hr style="width: 15%;" />
<p>Crochet work, so called from the hook, French <i>croche</i> or
<i>croc</i>, with which it is done, is not only one of the easiest but
in comparison with the cost and labour, one of the most
effective kinds of fancy-work. It is also one of the most useful,
as it can be applied to the domestic requirements of every-day
life, to wearing apparel, house-linen and upholstery; and we
are sure that the patterns contained in this chapter, which have
in addition to their other merits that of novelty, will meet with
a favorable reception.</p>
<p>Hooks, or needles, as they are generally called, made of
wood, bone or tortoise-shell are used for all the heavier kinds
of crochet work in thick wool or cotton, and steel ones for
the finer kinds. The Tunisian crochet is done with a long
straight hook, which is made all in one piece. The points
should be well polished inside and not too sharp, the backs
slightly curved, and the handles, whether of bone, steel or
wood, so light as not to tire the hand. Those represented
here, we consider the best, as regards shape. As it is most
essential that the needle should be suited to the cotton in size,
we subjoin a comparative table of the numbers of the D.M.C
threads and cottons and of the different needles.</p><p><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222"></a></p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/412.jpg" width="600" height="41" alt="FIG. 400. CROCHET NEEDLE WITH WOODEN HANDLE." title="" />
<a name="fig_400" id="fig_400"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 400. Crochet needle with wooden handle.</span>
</div>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/413.jpg" width="600" height="25" alt="FIG. 401. CROCHET NEEDLE WITH STEEL HANDLE." title="" />
<a name="fig_401" id="fig_401"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 401. Crochet needle with steel handle.</span>
</div>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/414.jpg" width="600" height="38" alt="FIG. 402. ENGLISH CROCHET NEEDLE WITH WOODEN HANDLE." title="" />
<a name="fig_402" id="fig_402"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 402. English crochet needle with wooden handle.</span>
</div>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/415.jpg" width="600" height="398" alt="Table of the approximate relation of the D.M.C threads
and cottons to the numbers of the crochet needles." title="" />
<span class="caption">Table of the approximate relation of the D.M.C threads
and cottons to the numbers of the crochet needles.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Explanation of the signs *.</b>—In crochet, as in knitting,
you frequently have to repeat the same series of stitches. Such
repetitions will be indicated, by the signs *, **, ***, etc., as
the case may be.</p>
<p><b>Crochet stitches.</b>—In point of fact, there is only one,
because all crochet work consists of loops made by means of
the hook or needle, and connected together by being drawn
the one through the other.</p>
<p>Crochet work may however, be divided into two kinds,
German crochet, and Victoria or Tunisian crochet; the latter
is known also under the name of <i>tricot-crochet.</i></p>
<p>In German crochet there are eight different kinds of stitches:
(1) chain stitch, (2) single stitch, (3) plain stitch, (4) treble
<a name="Page_223" id="Page_223"></a>stitch, (5) knot stitch, (6) bullion stitch, (7) cluster or scale
stitch, (8) double stitch.</p>
<p>The rows are worked, according to the kind of stitch, either
to and fro, or all from one end. In the former case, the work
has to be turned at the end of each row, and the subsequent
row begun with 1, 2 or 3 chain stitches to prevent the contraction
of the outside edge.</p>
<p>When the rows are all worked one way, the thread must
be fastened on afresh each time, which is done by putting the
needle into the first chain stitch of the preceding row, drawing
the thread through it so as to form a loop, and making one
or more chain stitches according to the height required.</p>
<p>At the end of each row, cut the thread and draw the end
through the last loop; in this manner all crochet work is
finished off. Some crochet workers make a few extra chain
stitches with the ends of the thread at the beginning and end of
each row, or fasten them off with a few stitches on the wrong
side.</p>
<p>They can also, when the occasion requires, be formed into
a fringe or tassels as a finish to the work.</p>
<p><b><a name="Position_of_the_hands" id="Position_of_the_hands"></a>Position of the hands and explanation of</b> (1) <b>chain
stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_403">403</a>).—Take the thread in the left hand between
the finger and thumb, hold the needle between the thumb and
first finger of the right hand, letting it rest on the second
finger, in the same manner in which you hold your pen, and
put it into the loop, which you hold between the finger and
thumb of the left hand. Take up the thread, lying on your
finger, with the needle and make your first stitch as you do in
<a name="Page_224" id="Page_224"></a>knitting, tightening the loop just enough to leave an easy passage
through it for the needle. The end of the thread must be
held by the thumb and forefinger. The next stitches are made
by taking up the thread with the needle and drawing it through
the loop. The throwing of the thread round the needle by a
jerk of the wrist is called an 'over'.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/416.jpg" width="600" height="235" alt="FIG. 403. POSITION OF THE HANDS AND EXPLANATION OF CHAIN STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_403" id="fig_403"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 403. Position of the hands and explanation of chain stitch.</span>
</div>
<p>(2) <b>Single stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_404">404</a>).—Put the needle in
from the right side of the
work, into the uppermost
loop of the preceding row,
take up the thread on the
needle and draw it through
both loops.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
<img src="images/417.jpg" width="350" height="162" alt="FIG. 404. SINGLE STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_404" id="fig_404"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 404. Single stitch.</span>
</div>
<p>(3) <b>Plain stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_405">405</a>).—Put the needle through, as in
fig. <a href="#fig_404">404</a>, from the right side to the wrong, under the upper
side, either of a chain, or of a stitch of the preceding row,
draw the thread through it in a loop, turn the thread round
the needle and draw it through both loops on the needle. By
making the rows of plain stitches follow each other in different
ways, a great variety of stitches can be produced, as the
illustrations and written instructions here given will show.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/418.jpg" width="300" height="235" alt="FIG. 405. PLAIN STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_405" id="fig_405"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 405. Plain stitch.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Rose stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_406">406</a>).—This consists of rows of plain
stitches, worked backwards and forwards. Insert the needle
from the right side, under both the horizontal loops of the
preceding row.</p><p><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225"></a></p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/419.jpg" width="300" height="252" alt="FIG. 406. ROSE STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_406" id="fig_406"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 406. Rose stitch.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Russian stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_407">407</a>).—This
is worked like the
foregoing, only that all the
rows have to be begun from
the same end, and the thread
has to be cut off at the end of
each row.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<a name="fig_407" id="fig_407"></a>
<img src="images/420.jpg" width="300" height="176" alt="FIG. 407. RUSSIAN STITCH." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 407. Russian stitch.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Ribbed stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_408">408</a>).—Worked
backwards and forwards,
the hook being passed
through the back part only
of the stitches of the preceding
row.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<a name="fig_408" id="fig_408"></a>
<img src="images/421.jpg" width="300" height="231" alt="FIG. 408. RIBBED STITCH." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 408. Ribbed stitch.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Chain stitch.</b>—Worked
like fig. <a href="#fig_408">408</a>, but on one side
only.</p>
<p><b>Piqué stitch.</b>—This stitch
also is only worked on one
side. Put the needle in under
one of the vertical threads of
a stitch and complete the plain
stitch. This is a stitch that
looks very well on the wrong
side; the bars of the loop lie
quite close together, which
makes it particularly suitable
for unlined articles of clothing.
It requires a large-sized
needle to do this stitch well, especially if the material be a
heavy one.</p>
<p><b>Slanting stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_409">409</a>).—Worked entirely on the right
side. Take up the back thread of a stitch in the preceding
row, take hold of the crochet thread without turning it round
the needle and draw it through in a loop, and then finish
the stitch like a plain stitch.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/422.jpg" width="300" height="158" alt="FIG. 409. SLANTING STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_409" id="fig_409"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 409. Slanting stitch.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Crossed stitch.</b>—The name which is given to the preceding
stitch when both the threads of the stitches in the row
before, are taken up together, instead of the back one only.</p><p><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226"></a></p>
<p><b>Russian crossed stitch</b>
(fig. <a href="#fig_410">410</a>).—To work this
stitch which runs in slanting
lines, put the needle in between
the vertical threads of the
stitches and underneath the
two horizontal ones.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<a name="fig_410" id="fig_410"></a>
<img src="images/423.jpg" width="300" height="155" alt="FIG. 410. RUSSIAN CROSSED STITCH." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 410. Russian crossed stitch.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Counterpane stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_411">411</a>).—Counterpanes can be
made in a less close stitch
than those just described.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/424.jpg" width="300" height="232" alt="FIG. 411. COUNTERPANE STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_411" id="fig_411"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 411. Counterpane stitch.</span>
</div>
<p>To produce a soft and
elastic fabric turn the thread
round the needle and insert
it under both the horizontal
threads of a loop, take up
the thread without turning
it round the needle, draw it
through in a loop, make an
over, and draw the thread
through all the three loops,
that you have on the needle.</p>
<p><b>Knotted stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_412">412</a>).—This
stitch likewise is composed
of plain stitches, which,
however differ in a slight degree
from those we have described
hitherto.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/425.jpg" width="300" height="197" alt="FIG. 412. KNOTTED STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_412" id="fig_412"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 412. Knotted stitch.</span>
</div>
<p>Make an over, put the
needle through the two horizontal threads of the stitch below,
make another over and draw it back through the two loops
and the first over, make another over, and draw the thread
through the last two loops.</p>
<p><b>Loop stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_413">413</a>).—Worked as follows: when you
have put the needle into the loop of a stitch below, carry the
thread, downwards from above, round a stripe of cardboard
or a flat wooden ruler, then finish the stitch in the usual way.
These long loops, each about 2 c/m. in length, can also be
<a name="Page_227" id="Page_227"></a>made over the forefinger and held fast by the thumb as you
work, but it is more difficult to make them regular in this way.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/426.jpg" width="300" height="172" alt="FIG. 413. LOOP STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_413" id="fig_413"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 413. Loop stitch.</span>
</div>
<p>Each row of long stitches is followed by a row of plain
stitches. The side, where the
long loops lie, becomes the
right side. If you wish this
stitch to be very thick and
handsome, wind the thread
three times round the ruler, or
finger, and secure it with a
plain stitch; in this case, you
should make one plain stitch
between every two clusters. A loose, fleecy
thread is generally used for this stitch, and
for washing articles more especially, we recommend
Coton à repriser D.M.C.</p>
<p><b>Plain stitches for a chain</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_414">414</a>).—Begin
with two chain stitches, put the
needle in between the two threads of the
first chain stitch, turn the thread round the
needle and draw it through in a loop, turn
it round again and draw it through the
two loops; then, put the needle into the left
part of the stitch that was just made, turn
the thread round the needle, draw it through
the two loops and so on, to the end.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 150px;">
<img src="images/427.jpg" width="150" height="248" alt="FIG. 414. PLAIN STITCHES FOR A CHAIN." title="" />
<a name="fig_414" id="fig_414"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 414. Plain stitches for a chain.</span>
</div>
<p>A chain of this kind makes a very good substitute for
<i>mignardise</i> when that can not
be got of the right size and
colour for the required purpose.</p>
<p>(4) <b>Trebles</b>.—Trebles are
little columns, or bars made
of loops or stitches. They can
be worked, like all other crochet,
either to and fro, or all one
way. There are different kinds
of trebles; half or short trebles, trebles, double trebles, called
<a name="Page_228" id="Page_228"></a>also 'long stitch', and quadruple and quintuple trebles, called
'extra long stitch', connected trebles and crossed trebles.</p>
<p><b>Half trebles</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_415">415</a>).—Turn
the cotton round the
needle from behind, put the
needle in between the trebles
of the preceding row, or into
one edge of a chain stitch;
make an over, bring the
needle forward again with
the thread, make another
over and draw the needle
through all three loops.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/428.jpg" width="300" height="201" alt="FIG. 415. HALF TREBLES" title="" />
<a name="fig_415" id="fig_415"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 415. Half trebles</span>
</div>
<p><b>Trebles</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_416">416</a> and
<a href="#fig_417">417</a>).—Begin, as for the
half treble, by turning the
thread round the needle, and
putting it in under one edge
of the stitch beneath, then
take up the thread on the
needle and bring it through
two of the loops, take it up
again, and draw it through
the two remaining loops.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/429.jpg" width="300" height="224" alt="FIG. 416. TREBLES MADE DIRECTLY ABOVE ONE ANOTHER." title="" />
<a name="fig_416" id="fig_416"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 416. Trebles made directly above one another.</span>
</div>
<p>In fig. <a href="#fig_417">417</a>, we have trebles
made in the same manner
as fig. <a href="#fig_416">416</a>, only that instead
of putting the needle under
one edge of the stitch beneath,
you put it under both, and
between the trebles of the
last row.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/430.jpg" width="300" height="226" alt="FIG. 417.
TREBLES SET BETWEEN THOSE OF THE
PRECEDING ROW." title="" />
<a name="fig_417" id="fig_417"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 417.
Trebles set between those of the
preceding row.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Double trebles or 'long
stitch'</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_418">418</a>).—Turn
the thread twice round the
needle, put it into a stitch of
the work and bring the thread
through in a loop, then take up the thread on the needle
<a name="Page_229" id="Page_229"></a>and bring it through two of the loops, three times in succession.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/431.jpg" width="300" height="225" alt="FIG. 418. DOUBLE TREBLES OR 'LONG STITCH'." title="" />
<a name="fig_418" id="fig_418"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 418. Double trebles or 'long stitch'.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Triple and quadruple
trebles or 'extra long stitch'</b>
(fig. <a href="#fig_419">419</a>).—For a triple treble,
twist the cotton three times
round the needle, for a quadruple
one, four times, then
form the treble in the usual
way by bringing the needle
through two of the loops at
a time. To make a series of
trebles, of gradually increasing
length, bring the needle, at
every other treble, through the
last three loops, so that before
making a triple treble you
will have to make columns, respectively,
1 treble, 1½ treble,
2 trebles and 2½ trebles long.
Columns like these, of different
lengths, are often required
in crochet work, for leaves and
scalloped edgings.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/432.jpg" width="300" height="257" alt="FIG. 419.
TRIPLE AND QUADRUPLE TREBLES OR
'EXTRA LONG STITCH'." title="" />
<a name="fig_419" id="fig_419"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 419.
Triple and quadruple trebles or
'extra long stitch'.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Connected trebles</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_420">420</a>).—Trebles, connected
together, can be worked to
and fro, and take the place of
plain stitches. Begin with a
chain, then make a treble of
the required height, form as
many loops as you made
overs for the treble, take up
the upper thread of the stitch
nearest the treble, turn the
thread round the needle, bring
it back to the right side and
draw the needle through the trebles, two at a time.</p><p><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230"></a></p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/433.jpg" width="300" height="179" alt="FIG. 420. CONNECTED TREBLES." title="" />
<a name="fig_420" id="fig_420"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 420. Connected trebles.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Crossed trebles</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_421">421</a> and <a href="#fig_422">422</a>).—Trebles of this sort
produce an open stitch,
which is often used for
the footing of lace, or
for an insertion. Make
a foundation of chain,
or other stitches, and
proceed as follows:
3 chain, miss 2 stitches
of the row beneath,
make 1 treble in the
third stitch, 5 chain,
1 over, put the needle
in between the loops
of the connected trebles
and finish with
a treble. Then make a double over, put the needle into the
next loop of the preceding row, make another over, draw the
needle through the loops, make another over and join the two
next loops. This leaves 3 loops on the needle. Make an over,
put the needle into the third stitch of the row beneath, make
an over, and bring the needle back to the right side.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<a name="fig_421" id="fig_421"></a>
<img src="images/434.jpg" width="300" height="234" alt="FIG. 421. CROSSED TREBLES." title="" />
<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 421. Crossed trebles.</span>
</div>
<p>Join the 5 loops on the needle together, 2 and 2, make 2
chain, 1 over, put the needle into the upper parts of the
connected trebles and finish with a treble, and so on.</p>
<p>These trebles also can be lengthened if necessary, but in
that case, the width of the crossed treble must correspond
with the height. Generally speaking you make the trebles over
the same number of stitches as you made overs on the needle,
which should always be an even number.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
<img src="images/435.jpg" width="400" height="324" alt="FIG. 422. CROSSED TREBLES, SET BETWEEN THOSE
OF THE PRECEDING ROW." title="" />
<a name="fig_422" id="fig_422"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 422. Crossed trebles, set between those
of the preceding row.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Trebles for a chain</b>.—A quicker way of making a wide
footing for a crochet lace is to make the trebles in the following
manner.</p>
<p>Make 4 chain stitches, 2 overs, put the needle into the first
of the 4 chain, 1 over, draw the thread through the stitch *,
1 over, draw the thread through the next 2 loops and repeat
twice from * = ** 2 overs, put the needle into the left bottom
part of the treble, close the treble as before and repeat from **.</p><p><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231"></a></p>
<p>(5) <b>Knot stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_423">423</a>).—This stitch which is composed
of several loops forming a tuft,
can only be worked from one
side, consequently all one way.
It looks best in a coarse material
to show the interlacing
of the threads.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/436.jpg" width="300" height="202" alt="FIG. 423. KNOT STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_423" id="fig_423"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 423. Knot stitch.</span>
</div>
<p>Enter the needle through
the two loops of the stitches of
the bottom row, turn the thread
round the needle, but away
from you towards the back;
bring it forward to the right
side, put the needle again
through one of the bottom
stitches, make another over
like the first and draw the
needle through all the bars at
once.</p>
<p>(6) <b>Bullion Stitch</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_424">424</a>
and <a href="#fig_425">425</a>).—For bullion stitch,
select a needle, a little thicker
towards the handle, and finer
than you would use for any
other crochet stitch.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/437.jpg" width="300" height="202" alt="FIG. 424. BULLION STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_424" id="fig_424"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 424. Bullion stitch.</span>
</div>
<p>Begin by making a chain
of very loose stitches, then
wind the thread several times,
very evenly, round the needle.
Insert the needle into a loop
of the chain, make a single over, and draw it with the last
over upon it, through all the other overs.</p>
<p>Trebles in bullion stitch, fig. <a href="#fig_425">425</a>, are worked in just the same
manner, only that you have to turn the thread, at least 10 or
12 times round the needle and draw it through all the overs at
once. To facilitate the passage of the needle, keep the overs
in their place with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/438.jpg" width="300" height="201" alt="FIG. 425. BULLION STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_425" id="fig_425"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 425. Bullion stitch.</span>
</div>
<p>Bullion stitch can only be worked with wool or a very fleecy
<a name="Page_232" id="Page_232"></a>thread, such as Coton à repriser D.M.C,<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>but trebles in bullion
stitch can be worked in
any of the D.M.C threads and
cottons.</p>
<p>(7) <b>Cluster stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_426">426</a>).—Generally
used as an insertion
between rows of plain
crochet.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/439.jpg" width="300" height="202" alt="FIG. 426. CLUSTER STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_426" id="fig_426"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 426. Cluster stitch.</span>
</div>
<p>Put the needle under one
stitch of the preceding row,
make an over, draw the thread
through in a loop, make another
over, put the needle in
again under the same stitch,
bring it back, make a third
over, and pass a third time
under the same stitch; bring
the needle back, make a fourth
over and pass the needle
through all the loops that are
upon it.</p>
<p>Then, after making a chain stitch, begin the same stitch over
again, placing it in the second stitch of the lower row.</p>
<p>Cluster stitch may also be finished off by retaining the two
last loops on the needle, making an over, and ending with a
plain stitch.</p>
<p>(8) <b>Double stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_427">427</a>).—A rather coarse thread, such
as Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 12, Cordonnet 6 fils
D.M.C Nos. 3 to 10, or Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>
is better for this stitch than a loose fleecy thread which is apt
to render it indistinct. Take up a loop right and left of a
stitch of the preceding row, so that counting the loop of the
last stitch, you have 3 loops on the needle, make an over and
draw it through the 3 loops. Then take up a loop again by
the side of the one you made on the left, and which now lies
<a name="Page_233" id="Page_233"></a>on the right. Take 2 loops in the next stitch, make an over
and draw it through all the loops.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/440.jpg" width="300" height="218" alt="FIG. 427. DOUBLE STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_427" id="fig_427"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 427. Double stitch.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Raised stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_428">428</a>).—All the stitches that come under
this heading require a foundation of a few plain rows for the
raised trebles. In fig. <a href="#fig_428">428</a>, you will observe that the fourth stitch
in the fourth row is a double
treble, connected with a loop
of the fourth stitch of the first
row.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/441.jpg" width="300" height="171" alt="FIG. 428. RAISED STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_428" id="fig_428"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 428. Raised stitch.</span>
</div>
<p>Miss the stitch of the preceding
row, which is hidden
under the treble, make 3 plain
stitches, 1 double treble, and
so on.</p>
<p>Having finished this row,
turn the work and make a
plain row. In the next row
begin with 4 plain stitches,
then make 1 double treble
between the 3 stitches that are
between the first trebles, 3
plain stitches, 2 double trebles
and so on.</p>
<p>In the 8th row of plain
stitches, the trebles must be
placed in the same order as
in the 4th.</p>
<p><b>Raised stitch with crossed trebles</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_429">429</a>).—Begin, as
in fig. <a href="#fig_428">428</a>, by 3 rows of plain stitches. The 4th row begins
with 2 plain stitches followed by: * 1 double treble joined to
the upper part of the 1st stitch of the 1st row; keep the 2 last
loops of this treble on the needle; make a double over for the
next treble, pass the needle through the fourth stitch of the
first row, make an over, turn the thread round the needle,
bring it back, finish the treble all but the last 3 loops, which
you crochet together. Miss the stitch behind the treble, make
3 plain stitches and repeat from *.</p><p><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234"></a></p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/442.jpg" width="300" height="268" alt="FIG. 429.
RAISED STITCH, WITH CROSSED TREBLES." title="" />
<a name="fig_429" id="fig_429"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 429.
Raised stitch, with crossed trebles.</span>
</div>
<p>Then turn the work, make one plain row, and turn the
work back to the right side.</p>
<p>The second row of trebles begins with a plain stitch. The way
in which the trebles are to be crossed is shewn in the illustration.</p>
<p><b>Raised stitch with dots</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_430">430</a>).—After making 3 plain
rows, begin the 4th with 3 plain stitches, and proceed as
follows: * 6 trebles
into the 4th
plain stitch of
the preceding
row, leaving the
last loop of each
treble on the
needle, so that
altogether you
have 7 loops upon
it; then you
turn the thread
once round the
needle and draw
it through the
loops; miss the
stitch that is underneath
the dot,
make 3 plain
stitches and repeat
from *.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
<img src="images/443.jpg" width="450" height="361" alt="FIG. 430. RAISED STITCH WITH DOTS." title="" />
<a name="fig_430" id="fig_430"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 430. Raised stitch with dots.</span>
</div>
<p>Then make 3
rows of plain
stitches; in the
4th row, the 1st
dot is made in
the 4th stitch, so
that the dots
stand out in relief.</p>
<p><b>Raised dots with trebles</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_431">431</a>).—Turn the work after
making 3 rows of plain stitches, make 3 stitches more in the<a name="Page_235" id="Page_235"></a>
4th stitch of the 1st row, * 6 trebles, drop the last stitch
of the 6th treble, put the needle into the stitch between
the last plain stitch and the 1st treble, take the dropped loop
of the last treble and draw it through the one on the needle;
miss the stitch under the dot, make 5 plain stitches and repeat
from *.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
<img src="images/444.jpg" width="450" height="339" alt="FIG. 431. RAISED DOTS WITH TREBLES." title="" />
<a name="fig_431" id="fig_431"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 431. Raised dots with trebles.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Raised dots in slanting lines</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_432">432</a>).—On the rows
of stitches that have been previously prepared, make, for the
4th stitch of the
4th row, a cluster
stitch, as in
fig. <a href="#fig_426">426</a>, with 1
quadruple over
and then 4 plain
stitches, 1 cluster
stitch and so on.
The next row is
plain; in the second
you have
to make 1 plain
stitch more, and
fasten the cluster
stitches into
the loops to the
left of the second of the 3
covered rows. In this way you
have to make each raised
stitch, one stitch, in advance
and to the left of the last, so
that they run in slanting lines
over the surface.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
<img src="images/445.jpg" width="450" height="366" alt="FIG. 432. RAISED DOTS IN SLANTING LINES." title="" />
<a name="fig_432" id="fig_432"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 432. Raised dots in slanting lines.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Close shell stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_433">433</a>).—This pretty stitch
which can only be worked
in rows, all one way, is more
especially suitable for children's
jackets and petticoats; it is easy, and has the merit of
being quickly done. On a foundation of chain, or other
<a name="Page_236" id="Page_236"></a>stitches, make: 2 chain, 7 trebles on the 4th stitch, * 1
chain, 7 trebles on the 5th stitch of the last row and repeat
from *.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/446.jpg" width="300" height="254" alt="FIG. 433. CLOSE SHELL STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_433" id="fig_433"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 433. Close shell stitch.</span>
</div>
<p>2nd row—** 7 trebles on the chain stitch of the last row
which connects 7 bars, 1 plain stitch on the 4th of the 7 trebles
of the first row and repeat from **.</p>
<p><b>Picots</b>.—The edges of most crochet work are ornamented
with picots, or small points of different shapes, called severally
close picots, chain picots and lace picots.</p>
<p>Close picots may be subdivided into, large and small,
pointed, and rounded, picots with rounded leaves and picots
with pointed leaves.</p>
<p><b>Small rounded picots</b>.—These may either be made separately
and then sewn on, or made at once, on to a crochet border. In
the first case, begin with 3 chain, then coming back, make 1 plain
stitch on the second and on the first chain stitch. In the second
case make: 1 chain, take the needle out of the stitch and put it
in from the right side, under both edges of the last stitch,
take up the dropped stitch, bring it to the right side, * 3
chain; then returning: 1 plain stitch on each chain, draw the
needle out, put it in from the right side into the second stitch
of the row beneath, take up the loop, bring it back to the
right side, and repeat from *.</p>
<p><b>Large rounded picots</b>.—5 chain, miss 3, 1 treble on the
2nd and 1 treble on the 1st chain stitch.</p>
<p>When you want to attach these picots at once to an existing
piece of work, drop the last loop and bring it back again
with the needle from the wrong side to the right and miss 2
stitches, instead of one, as in the case of the small picots.</p>
<p><b>Pointed picots</b>.—Cast on 6 chain, then returning, and
missing the 6th stitch: 1 single stitch, 1 plain stitch, 1 half
treble, 1 treble, 1 double treble.</p>
<p><b>Picots with rounded leaves</b>.—* 4 chain, and 3 trebles
on the first stitch, and 1 single on the same stitch on which
the trebles were, **, or 6 chain and repeat from * to **.</p>
<p>When these picots serve as a finish to a straight edge,
make 2 single stitches in the preceding row instead of 2 chain.</p><p><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237"></a></p>
<p><b>Picots with pointed leaves</b>.—6 chain, on the first chain
stitch: 3 double trebles, of which you retain the two last
loops on the hook, 1 over, draw the thread through the 4
loops, 5 chain, 1 single on the stitch on which the trebles are.</p>
<p><b>Chain picots</b>.—For the small chain picots, make: 5 chain
and 1 plain stitch on the first of these 5 stitches. For the large
ones: 5 chain and 1 treble on the first stitch.</p>
<p><b>Picots in bullion stitch</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_424">424</a> and <a href="#fig_425">425</a>).—5 chain, 1
treble in bullion stitch drawn up into a ring, and joined to the
5th chain stitch.</p>
<p><b>Drooping picots</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_434">434</a>).—5 chain, drop the loop, put the
needle into the first of the 5 chain, take up the dropped loop,
and draw it through the
stitch.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
<img src="images/447.jpg" width="350" height="144" alt="FIG. 434. DROOPING PICOTS." title="" />
<a name="fig_434" id="fig_434"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 434. Drooping picots.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Lace picots</b> (figs.
<a href="#fig_435">435</a> and <a href="#fig_436">436</a>).—Fig. <a href="#fig_435">435</a>
represents picots formed
of chain stitches, as
follows: 2 chain, put
the needle into the first,
1 over, bring the thread
back to the front, 2
chain: * put the needle
into the two loops, and
at the same time, into
the second loop and the
first chain, draw the
thread through in a loop,
make 2 chain and repeat
from *.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
<img src="images/448.jpg" width="350" height="150" alt="FIG. 435. EMPTY LACE PICOTS, WORKED IN CROCHET." title="" />
<a name="fig_435" id="fig_435"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 435. Empty lace picots, worked in crochet.</span>
</div>
<p>In order to make the
picots more even and
regular, it is advisable
to form them over a coarse
knitting needle or mesh.</p>
<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_436">436</a> represents picots attached by plain stitches to the
edge of a finished piece of work; this is done as follows: 1
<a name="Page_238" id="Page_238"></a>plain stitch, draw out the loop to the proper length for a picot,
and slip it on a mesh: put the needle into the horizontal parts
of the last stitches, turn the thread round the needle, draw it
through in a loop, and make 1 plain stitch on the next stitch
and so on.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/449.jpg" width="300" height="146" alt="FIG. 436. LACE PICOTS ATTACHED TO A ROW OF
STITCHES MADE BEFORE HAND." title="" />
<a name="fig_436" id="fig_436"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 436. Lace picots attached to a row of
stitches made before hand.</span>
</div>
<p><b><a name="Method_for_copying_tapestry" id="Method_for_copying_tapestry"></a>Method for copying tapestry patterns in crochet
work</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_437">437</a> and <a href="#fig_438">438</a>).—Printed cross stitch and embroidery
patterns can very well be copied in crochet work especially
when they are in two colours only, or rather, are drawn in
one colour, on a plain ground.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<a href="images/full_450.jpg"><img src="images/450.jpg" width="600" height="466" alt="FIG. 437.
OPEN-WORK CROCHET MADE AFTER
A TAPESTRY PATTERN." title="" /></a>
<a name="fig_437" id="fig_437"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 437.
Open-work crochet made after
a tapestry pattern.</span>
</div>
<p>The way in which such patterns are copied in crochet is by
means of chain stitches and trebles, which, rising one above
the other in rows, form little squares. For each square marked
on the pattern, you must count, in the grounding, 1 treble and
2 chain stitches; in the solid parts, 3 trebles.</p>
<p>The squares formed by the chain stitches should always
begin and end with a treble.</p>
<p>When, therefore, a solid square comes between empty or
foundation squares, count 4 trebles for the solid square, because
the last treble of the last empty square touches the third treble
of the solid one.</p>
<p>Thus for 2 solid squares, side by side, count 7 trebles, and
for 3 squares, 10. Embroidery patterns worked in several colours
can be reproduced in crochet either by trebles and rows worked
<a name="Page_239" id="Page_239"></a>one way only, cutting off the thread at the end of each row, or
by plain stitches, worked in rows to and fro.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<a href="images/full_451.jpg"><img src="images/451.jpg" width="600" height="467" alt="FIG. 438.
PLAIN CROCHET MADE AFTER A TAPESTRY
PATTERN." title="" /></a>
<a name="fig_438" id="fig_438"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 438.
Plain crochet made after a tapestry
pattern.</span>
</div>
<p>When only three colours are used, pass two threads under
the stitches; when more than two, leave those which are not
in use, at the back of the work and only bring them to the front
as they are wanted. The thread, you lay aside, takes at the
back the place of the one in use. Of course, the threads not in
use can only can be disposed of in this way when the work has
a wrong side, otherwise they must be passed underneath the
stitches. The colours should alternate in the order the pattern
prescribes; moreover, the last stitch before you take another
colour cannot be finished with the same thread, you must pass
the new thread through the last loop and draw it up with that.</p>
<p><b><a name="Crochet_with_Soutache" id="Crochet_with_Soutache"></a>Crochet with Soutache or Lacet (braid)</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_439">439</a> and
<a href="#fig_440">440</a>).—These are two patterns
of crochet, worked with the
ordinary crochet cottons and
with Soutache or Lacet D.M.C,
a material which has not been
used for crochet work before.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/452.jpg" width="300" height="127" alt="FIG. 439.
CROCHET WITH SOUTACHE OR LACET (BRAID)." title="" />
<a name="fig_439" id="fig_439"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 439.
Crochet with soutache or lacet (braid).</span>
</div>
<p>Both patterns are worked
entirely with trebles; in fig. <a href="#fig_439">439</a>, the red braid passes over
and under 2 trebles; in fig. <a href="#fig_440">440</a>, it is brought, it will be
observed, from the wrong side
to the right after every 2
trebles, and passed between
them, in such a manner as to
form a slanting stitch between
the rows of stitches.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<a name="fig_440" id="fig_440"></a>
<img src="images/453.jpg" width="300" height="100" alt="FIG. 440.
CROCHET WITH SOUTACHE OR LACET (BRAID)." title="" />
</div>
<span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 440.
Crochet with soutache or lacet (braid).<br />
Materials:</span> Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6
to 12 or Cordonnet 6 fil D.M.C Nos. 3 to
10. Soutache D.M.C No. 2 or 3 or Lacets
superfins D.M.C Nos. 2 to 5.<br />
<span class="smcap">Colours:</span> The cotton, white or écru. The
Soutache or Lacet: Rouge-Cardinal 347, or
Rouge-Grenat 326, or Bleu-Indigo 312.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p><b><a name="Crochet_square" id="Crochet_square"></a>Crochet square</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_441">441</a>).—Begin
with 4 chain stitches,
and work 1 single on the 1st
chain, to make a round. Work,
1 chain and 2 plain on the next chain, 3 plain on each of the
<a name="Page_240" id="Page_240"></a>next 3 chain, 1 plain on the stitch on which the two first plain
are worked.</p>
<p>Slip the next stitch, that is, put the needle in between the
horizontal bars of the 1st plain stitch of the previous row, and
draw the thread out without making a stitch.</p>
<p>Then make 1 chain and 2 plain on the slipped stitch.</p>
<p>After which, you make 3 plain on the second of the 3 plain
that form the corner, and 1
plain on all the other stitches
of the last row. The beginning
and end of each row, are worked
as described above.</p>
<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_441">441</a> represents a square,
worked in consecutive rows.
In making a crochet square,
the rows may end in the middle
of a side.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/454.jpg" width="300" height="278" alt="FIG. 441. CROCHET SQUARE." title="" />
<a name="fig_441" id="fig_441"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 441. Crochet square.</span>
</div>
<p>When you use a stitch that
has to be worked to and fro, you
turn your work at the end of
every row and work back along the stitches you have just made.</p>
<p><b>Crochet hexagon</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_442">442</a>).—Make a foundation
chain of 6 stitches, join the
round; 12 plain on the 6
chain; finish the row as indicated
for the previous
figure == turn the work
== * 1 plain, 3 plain on
the second plain of the
last row; repeat 5 times
from *. Finish the row
with 1 single == turn the
work == 2 plain, 3 plain
on the second of the first
3 plain; 3 plain and so on. These hexagons can be made of
any size.</p><p><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241"></a></p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
<img src="images/455.jpg" width="350" height="305" alt="FIG. 442. CROCHET HEXAGON." title="" />
<a name="fig_442" id="fig_442"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 442. Crochet hexagon.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Coloured star worked into a light ground</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_443">443</a>).—Begin
with 3 chain, join the ring = 2 plain on each of the 3
chain; then for the foundation, 1 plain with the dark thread,
and 1 with the light on each of the 6 plain.</p>
<p>In each subsequent row, make one dark stitch more,
increasing regularly,
that is,
making 2 stitches
on the last
light stitch that
comes before the
dark ones.</p>
<p>Proceed in
this manner until
you have 6 or 8
dark stitches, in
all and then begin
to decrease in
every row by
one, until there
is at last only one
dark stitch remaining.</p>
<p>These stars
are used in the making of purses, cap-crowns and mats for
lamps, etc.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 425px;">
<img src="images/456.jpg" width="425" height="420" alt="FIG. 443.
COLOURED STAR WORKED INTO A LIGHT GROUND." title="" />
<a name="fig_443" id="fig_443"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 443.
Coloured star worked into a light ground.</span>
</div>
<p><b><a name="Tunisian_crochet" id="Tunisian_crochet"></a>Tunisian crochet</b>.—Tunisian crochet is also called crochet-knitting
because, you have to cast on all the first row of
stitches, as in knitting.</p>
<p><b>Materials</b>—Every kind of cotton, as well as wool and silk,
can be used for Tunisian crochet: the stitches look equally
well in all these materials, but for things that require frequent
washing or cleaning, a good washing material should be selected,
such as Coton à tricoter D.M.C and Cordonnet 6 fils
D.M.C<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>, both strong and suitable in all ways.</p>
<p><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242"></a></p>
<p>As we have already said, Tunisian crochet requires to be
done with a long straight needle, with a knob at one end and
it can only be worked on the right side.</p>
<p><b>Plain Tunisian crochet</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_444">444</a>).—After making a
foundation chain of the required length, begin the first, or
loop row as it is called. Put
the needle into the 2nd chain
stitch, draw a loop through
and so on, until you have taken
up all the chain stitches on the
needle. After having made the
last stitch of the loop row,
make 1 chain stitch and then
pass to the second row that
completes the stitch. Turn the
thread round the needle, draw
it through two loops, turn the
thread round again, and again
draw it through two loops,
and so on to the end.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/457.jpg" width="300" height="220" alt="FIG. 444.
PLAIN TUNISIAN CROCHET." title="" />
<a name="fig_444" id="fig_444"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 444.
Plain tunisian crochet.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Straight plaited Tunisian
stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_445">445</a>).—Worked
thus: miss the first loop in
the 1st row, take up the second,
and come back to the first, so
that the 2 loops are crossed.
Work the second row
in the same manner as the
second row of the preceding
figure.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/458.jpg" width="300" height="152" alt="FIG. 445.
STRAIGHT PLAITED TUNISIAN STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_445" id="fig_445"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 445.
Straight plaited tunisian stitch.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Diagonal plaited Tunisian
stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_446">446</a>).—Worked
like the preceding,
taking up first the
second loop and then the
first: the second row also,
in the same way as before.
In the third row, take up the first stitch, and draw the
<a name="Page_243" id="Page_243"></a>third through the second, so as to produce diagonal lines across
the surface of the work.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
<img src="images/459.jpg" width="350" height="237" alt="FIG. 446.
SLANTING PLAITED TUNISIAN STITCH." title="" />
<a name="fig_446" id="fig_446"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 446.
Slanting plaited tunisian stitch.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Open Tunisian stitch</b>.—This is an easy kind of Tunisian
crochet. The first row is worked as in fig. <a href="#fig_444">444</a>. In the row of
plain stitches, you alternately join 2 and 3, or 3 and 4 loops of
the preceding row together, and replace them by as many
chain stitches.</p>
<p><b>Decreasing and increasing in Tunisian crochet</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_447">447</a>).
Our illustration shows how to decrease on both sides and by
that means form scallops.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
<img src="images/460.jpg" width="500" height="273" alt="FIG. 447. DECREASING IN TUNISIAN CROCHET." title="" />
<a name="fig_447" id="fig_447"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 447. Decreasing in tunisian crochet.</span>
</div>
<p>You miss a stitch alternately on the right and left. On the
right you crochet the first two stitches together, and at the
end of the row, the last two, and so on, to the end. You increase
in the same order, first on the right and then on the left.</p>
<p><b><a name="Hairpin_crochet" id="Hairpin_crochet"></a>Hairpin crochet</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_448">448</a>, <a href="#fig_449">449</a>, <a href="#fig_450">450</a>).—So called because
it is worked on a kind of large steel hairpin or fork with two
or more prongs. Wooden and nickel varieties of this implement,
which are patented by Mme Besson, of Paris, are also
used.</p>
<p>Very pretty laces, fringes, gimp headings and the like can
be made in this kind of crochet work. It is often used in combination
with ordinary crochet and plain and scalloped braids
and gimps, or as a heading for fringes made of tufts and pendant
balls. There are a great many stitches which can be
worked in hairpin-crochet. We shall only describe those here
that will best teach our readers how the work is done.</p><p><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244"></a></p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/461.jpg" width="600" height="89" alt="FIG. 448. STEEL HAIRPIN FOR CROCHET." title="" />
<a name="fig_448" id="fig_448"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 448. Steel hairpin for crochet.</span>
</div>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/462.jpg" width="600" height="181" alt="FIG. 449. WOODEN FORK FOR CROCHET." title="" />
<a name="fig_449" id="fig_449"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 449. Wooden fork for crochet.</span>
</div>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/463.jpg" width="600" height="240" alt="FIG. 450. FORK WITH SEVERAL PRONGS FOR CROCHET." title="" />
<a name="fig_450" id="fig_450"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 450. Fork with several prongs for crochet.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Materials</b>.—For washing laces, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C
is the best; for furniture fringes, the lower numbers of Coton
à tricoter D.M.C, and for producing the appearance of filoselle,
the lower numbers of Coton à repriser D.M.C are to be taken.</p>
<p><b>Stitches</b>.—Begin by a chain stitch, made with an ordinary
crochet needle, take the needle out of the loop, and insert
the left prong of the fork upwards from below, holding the
fork between the thumb and finger of the left hand. The thread
should always be in front. Then put the thread over the right
prong and the needle into the loop on the left prong, take up
the thread, draw it through the loop, put the thread over the
needle and draw it through the loop that is on the needle,
twist the loop round the left prong, turn the needle round to
the right (the thread will now be wound round the right
prong); put the needle into the loop on the left prong, throw
<a name="Page_245" id="Page_245"></a>the thread over the needle, draw it through, tighten the loops
and so on.</p>
<p>These stitches may be doubled, or you may make several
trebles on each loop, or arrange the plain stitches in different
ways.</p>
<p><b><a name="Hairpin_insertion" id="Hairpin_insertion"></a>Hairpin insertion</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_451">451</a>).—Begin by making stripes
with the fork, covering each
thread with two plain stitches.
Then join the stripes together
by the loops, drawing the left
loop over the right one and
the right one over the left.
When you come to the end
of the stripes fasten off the
last loops by a few stitches.
To strengthen the edges, join
two loops together by 1 plain,
2 chain, 1 plain and so on.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
<img src="images/464.jpg" width="400" height="243" alt="FIG. 451.
HAIRPIN INSERTION." title="" />
<a name="fig_451" id="fig_451"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 451.
Hairpin insertion.
<br />
Materials:</span> Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 20
or 30, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 4
to 15, white or écru.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p><b>Hairpin lace</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_452">452</a>).—When, by making two half
trebles in each loop,
you have got the necessary
length of hairpin
crochet, join the
loops two and two, by
means of a coloured
thread which makes a
good contrast with
the thread of which
the hairpin crochet is
made. Work 1 plain
stitch joining 2 loops
on the right, 2 chain,
1 plain joining the 2
loops on the left; then
2 chain and come back to the right, and so on, until you have
taken up all the loops. This forms the zig-zag in the middle.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
<img src="images/465.jpg" width="400" height="233" alt="FIG. 452. HAIRPIN LACE." title="" />
<a name="fig_452" id="fig_452"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 452. Hairpin lace.
<br />
Materials</span>—For the hairpin work: Fil à pointer
D.M.C Nos. 20 to 30, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C
Nos. 3 to 10, white or écru.
For the edge. Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 16 to 30.
<br />
<span class="smcap">Colours:</span> Rouge-Cardinal 347, or Jaune-Rouille 364,
or Brun-Marron 406.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246"></a></p>
<p>1st row—join 3 loops by: 1 plain, 5 chain.</p>
<p>2nd row—on the 5 chain stitches: 1 plain, 1 half-treble,
3 trebles, 1 picot, made with 5 chain (for the chain picots, see
p. 237), 1 half-treble, 1 plain. The footing of this lace is made
like the one in fig. <a href="#fig_451">451</a>.</p>
<p><b>Hairpin fringes</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_453">453</a>, <a href="#fig_454">454</a>, <a href="#fig_455">455</a>, <a href="#fig_456">456</a>).—Fig. <a href="#fig_453">453</a> is
made with a fork composed of one branch and 3 or 4 rulers,
round which the thread is wound in succession, so as to form
loops of different lengths. You may use for this, either a single
very coarse thread, or else several fine ones, used together as
one.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
<img src="images/466.jpg" width="500" height="451" alt="FIG. 453. HAIRPIN FRINGE WITH TASSELS." title="" />
<a name="fig_453" id="fig_453"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 453. Hairpin fringe with tassels.</span>
</div>
<p>The heading of the fringe is plain, and heavy tassels are
fastened into the loops. The tassels are made as follows: take
a thick skein of the same thread the fringe is made of, pass it
through the loop, leaving just the length required for the
tassel, at one end, thread a needle with the same thread and
twist it round the skein, the right distance from the top to
form the head of the tassel and then cut the ends even, at the
bottom. As the loops are of different lengths, the tassels will
<a name="Page_247" id="Page_247"></a>hang in steps and the fuller and heavier they are, the handsomer
the fringe will be.</p>
<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_454">454</a> represents another pattern of fringe, the first part
of which is made with the same fork as the preceding one.
Instead however of winding the thread round the several
prongs in succession, you pass it alternately round the two first
and the fourth, thus making loops of two lengths only. Tassels
of a length, suited to the purpose the fringe is intended for,
depend from these loops and may be varied in the second row
by balls made to issue from the middle, or by long meshes,
which are made over the whole width of the fork and affixed
to the loops.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
<img src="images/467.jpg" width="500" height="434" alt="FIG. 454. HAIRPIN FRINGE WITH TASSELS." title="" />
<a name="fig_454" id="fig_454"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 454. Hairpin fringe with tassels.
<br />
Materials:</span> Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 16.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a><br />
<span class="smcap">Colours:</span> Écru and Jaune-Rouille 363, 368, or Gris-Tilleul 331 and
Rouge-Cornouille 449 and 450, or three other shades.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>Figs. <a href="#fig_455">455</a> and <a href="#fig_456">456</a> represent two pretty patterns of fringes
made of écru cotton with a strong twist. These are very suitable
for washing articles, as the cotton balls wash perfectly.</p>
<p><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248"></a></p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
<img src="images/468.jpg" width="450" height="219" alt="FIG. 455. HAIRPIN FRINGE WITH ONE LINE OF BALLS." title="" />
<a name="fig_455" id="fig_455"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 455. Hairpin fringe with one line of balls.</span>
</div>
<p>The loops in fig. <a href="#fig_455">455</a> are all of one length and a ball hangs
from every third. In the last chapter but one, a minute description
is given of the way in which these balls are made. The
heading of the loops is formed by a row of chain stitches,
varying in number from four to six, according to the size of
the cotton. The
edge is ornamented
with
little picots. The
fringe, in fig. <a href="#fig_456">456</a>, consists of
three long and
three short loops
alternately,
which causes,
the balls that are
made to depend
from them, to
form two parallel
lines.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
<img src="images/469.jpg" width="450" height="223" alt="FIG. 456. HAIRPIN FRINGE WITH TWO LINES OF BALLS,
ONE ABOVE THE OTHER." title="" />
<a name="fig_456" id="fig_456"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 456. Hairpin fringe with two lines of balls,
one above the other.
<br />
Materials</span>—For the crochet-work: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C
Nos. 3 to 10, or Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30.
For the balls: Coton à repriser D.M.C Nos. 8 to 16.</span>
</div>
<p>If you join
the loops of the
heading together,
three and
three, you will
have to make
enough chain
stitches to cover
the space that is
to be filled.</p>
<p>The picots are made with 6 chain stitches, you put the
needle back into the fifth stitch after closing the picot, make 1
chain, 2 plain, in the preceding row, 1 picot and so on.</p>
<p><b>Fringe made with Lacet or braid</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_457">457</a>).—This is an
easy fringe to make and a very effective trimming for table-cloths,
curtains etc., which are embroidered on coarse stuffs.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/470.jpg" width="300" height="228" alt="FIG. 457.
FRINGE MADE WITH LACET OR SOUTACHE
(BRAID)." title="" />
<a name="fig_457" id="fig_457"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 457.
Fringe made with lacet or soutache
(braid).
<br />
Materials:</span> Lacet D.M.C No. 4 or
Soutache D.M.C NO. 2½ in red.
Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 3 to 10.
Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30, écru.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>Begin with a foundation chain, in coarse écru twist, the light
<a name="Page_249" id="Page_249"></a>stitch in the middle of the heading of the fringe being also made
of the same material.</p>
<p>In the next row, you use the twist and the braid together,
as follows—with the twist = 1 chain stitch, put the needle
into the first stitch of the foundation chain, take up the braid,
draw it through, turn the twist round the needle, draw it
through the braid and the chain
stitch. To make the braid
loops longer, they may be made
over a wooden ruler. To the
two rows of braid stitches, represented
in the pattern, you
may add as many other rows as
you please. On the fringed side
make: 4 plain, 3 chain, draw out
one very long loop and fasten into
it a cluster of lengths of braid
from 10 to 12 c/m. long, and
draw the loop tightly round it to
secure the tassel; 3 plain on the
chain stitches. Repeat from *.</p>
<p><b><a name="Lace_made_on_Point_Lace_braid" id="Lace_made_on_Point_Lace_braid"></a>Lace made on Point Lace braid</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_458">458</a>).—For the
rounds: 1 plain on the braid, 10 chain, then coming back,
1 single on the 4th chain.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<a name="fig_458" id="fig_458"></a>
<img src="images/471.jpg" width="300" height="95" alt="FIG. 458. LACE MADE ON POINT LACE BRAID." title="" />
<span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 458. Lace made on point lace braid.
<br />
Materials:</span> Fil d'Alsace D.M.C
Nos. 30 to 50, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C
No. 80, white<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> and Point Lace braid.</span>
</div>
<p>In this first round you make: 1 chain, 1 half-treble, 12
trebles *, 1 half-treble, 1 chain,
1 single on the 4th chain; 3
chain, 1 single on the braid,
far enough from the 1st chain
for the rounds not to overlap
each other. Then 10 chain,
1 single on the 4th chain, 1
single, 1 half-treble, 4 trebles,
join to the first round between
the 8th and 9th trebles, 8 trebles and repeat from *. For the
<a name="Page_250" id="Page_250"></a>footing: 1 treble, 1 chain, miss a few threads of the edge of
the braid, 1 treble.</p>
<p><b>Crochet guipure lace</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_459">459</a>).—This charming little lace
makes a very good substitute for real guipure. It can be made
on a row of trebles, just as well as on point lace braid, or on
a mignardise, after you have raised the picots of it by single
and chain stitches.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/472.jpg" width="300" height="97" alt="FIG. 459.
CROCHET GUIPURE LACE" title="" />
<a name="fig_459" id="fig_459"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 459.
Crochet guipure lace.
<br />
Materials:</span> Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 70 to 90.
Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 80 to 120,
or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 40 to 70.</span>
</div>
<p>6 plain *, 9 chain, leave an interval equalling in length 6
bars of the point lace braid used in our pattern; in the braid:
6 plain stitches, very close together, 8 chain, 1 single on the
7th of the 9 chain, 10 chain,
1 single on the 3d of the 9
chain, 8 chain, 1 plain close
to the first of the first 6
plain.</p>
<p>1st scallop—7 plain, 5
chain, join to the 4th chain;
on the 5th chain: 6 plain; on
the 8th chain: 3 plain.</p>
<p>2nd scallop—on the 10 chain: 7 plain, 5 chain, join to the
4th chain = on the 5 chain: 6 plain = on the 10 chain, 5
plain, 5 chain, join to the 4th chain, 6 plain, 5 chain, join to
the 4th chain, 6 chain, 1 plain on the 10th chain.</p>
<p>3rd scallop—like the first, then repeat from *.</p>
<p><b>Lace made on Point Lace braid</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_460">460</a>).—On the braid,
work a row of trebles, 1 or 2 chain stitches apart, according
to the size of the braid and
on this row of trebles, make
two other rows as follows:</p>
<p>1st row—5 chain, 1 treble
on the treble of the preceding
row, 5 chain, 1 treble, on the
same stitch to which the first
treble is joined, 5 chain, miss 3 trebles, 1 treble on the 4th
treble of the row beneath.</p>
<p>2nd row—1 plain on the 3rd of the 5 first chain, 3 plain,
1 treble on the 3rd of the chain stitches between the two trebles
of the first row that come close together; 3 chain, 1 treble on
<a name="Page_251" id="Page_251"></a>the same stitch, 3 chain, 1 treble on the same stitch, 3 chain,
1 treble on the 3rd of the next 5 chain.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/473.jpg" width="300" height="86" alt="FIG. 460.
LACE MADE ON POINT LACE BRAID." title="" />
<a name="fig_460" id="fig_460"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 460.
Lace made on point lace braid.<br />
Materials:</span> The same as for <a href="#fig_458">458</a>.</span>
</div>
<p><b>Crochet lace</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_461">461</a>).—1st row—3 plain close together,
in the braid; * 13 chain, join to the 1st plain. On each of the
first 6 chain; 1 plain; = on the 7th chain: 3 plain, then on
the other chain stitches: 6 plain. In the braid: 7 plain and
repeat from *.</p>
<p>2nd row—* miss 2 plain of the first row, 5 plain to reach
the 2nd stitch added in the first row, 4 plain on the 2nd added
stitch, 4 plain on the next
stitches. Repeat from *.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
<img src="images/474.jpg" width="350" height="80" alt="FIG. 461. CROCHET LACE" title="" />
<a name="fig_461" id="fig_461"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 461. Crochet lace.
<br />
Materials:</span> Lacet superfin D.M.C No. 14
and Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 30 to 70.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>For an insertion, drop
the thread after the 2nd of
the 4 stitches that are to
be made at the point, then
put the needle into the
stitch of the finished stripe, take up the thread again, draw it
through the stitch and proceed to the second side of the scallop.</p>
<p><b>Crochet lace with mignardise</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_462">462</a>).—This and all
the patterns that follow, up
to fig. <a href="#fig_473">473</a>, make very useful
trimmings for all kinds
of underclothing. Begin by
raising the picots on both
sides of the mignardise by:
1 plain stitch and 1 chain.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
<img src="images/475.jpg" width="350" height="232" alt="FIG. 462. CROCHET LACE WITH MIGNARDISE." title="" />
<a name="fig_462" id="fig_462"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 462. Crochet lace with mignardise.
<br />
Materials</span>—According to the mignardise
used. Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 30 to 70, or
Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 70.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>The rows of crochet
work between, consist of:
1 treble on 1 chain, 4 chain,
miss 2 picots of the mignardise,
1 treble between
the 3rd and 4th picot.</p>
<p>Work the edge in two rows.</p>
<p>1st row—1 treble between 2 picots, 3 chain, miss 2 picots,
1 treble.</p>
<p>2nd row—1 treble on 3 chain, 3 chain, 1 treble, 3 chain,<a name="Page_252" id="Page_252"></a>
3 trebles, 7 chain, turn back and join to the 1st of the 3
trebles, 2 chain, join them to the 2nd treble, 2 trebles on the 7
chain; keep the last loops of the last treble on the needle and
join them to those of the next treble.</p>
<p><b>Lace with two rows of leaves</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_463">463</a>).—This is one of
the pleasantest crochet patterns to work that we know. The
leaves are made separately and fastened into a foundation with
thread, at least two numbers finer than that of which the leaves
are made.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
<a name="fig_463" id="fig_463"></a>
<img src="images/476.jpg" width="500" height="372" alt="FIG. 463. LACE WITH TWO ROWS OF LEAVES." title="" />
<span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 463. Lace with two rows of leaves.
<br />
Materials:</span> Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 20 to 100, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 25 to 80
or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 100.</span>
</div>
<p>Leaf with 5 petals: 8 chain, make a ring = 2 plain on the
ring = 1st petal * 11 chain, miss 3 chain, 1 half-treble on the
8th chain, 1 chain, miss the 7th chain, 1 treble on the 6th chain,
1 chain, 1 treble on the 4th chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd
chain, 2 chain, 2 plain on the ring.</p>
<p>2nd petal: 15 chain, miss 3 chain, 1 half-treble *, 1 chain,
miss 1 chain, 1 treble *. Repeat 4 times from * to *; add: 1
chain, 2 trebles on the ring.</p>
<p>3rd petal: 21 chain, miss 3 chain, 1 half-treble *, 1 chain,
miss 1, 1 treble *. Repeat 7 times from * to *; add: 1 chain,
miss 1, 2 trebles in the ring.</p><p><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253"></a></p>
<p>The 4th petal to be worked like the 3rd; the 5th like the
1st.</p>
<p>When the 5 petals are finished, make 2 plain stitches on
the ring; then on the chain stitches of the 1st petal: 2 plain,
7 trebles, 2 trebles on the 10th stitch; then descending again:
7 trebles, 2 plain and 3 single on the 3 plain stitches of the
ring.</p>
<p>On the 2nd petal work: 3 plain, 10 trebles, 2 trebles on
the 14th chain, 10 trebles, 3 plain, 2 single, on the 2 trebles
on the ring.</p>
<p>3rd petal: 2 single, 3 plain, 14 trebles, 2 trebles on the 20th
chain, 14 trebles, 3 plain, a single.</p>
<p>The 4th petal is worked like the 2nd; the 5th like the 1st,
to be followed by 1 single on the 1st of the 3 chain stitches of
the ring.</p>
<p>For the stalk: 14 chain; miss 1, 9 plain on the 9 chain; 6
chain, miss 1, 5 plain on the 5 chain, 4 plain on the chain
stitches that are still disengaged, 2 single on the ring and then
fasten the thread off with a few stitches.</p>
<p>When you have enough leaves, join them together by a
row of picots, working from left to right as follows: * take
the second petal on the right side of a leaf, put the thread into
the 12th stitch; make 2 plain, 1 picot, 1 plain on the stitch
on which the picot was made = in all the leaves, the 3rd plain
before the picot and the first after, meet in the same stitch
beneath = 2 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 2 chain = on the 8th
stitch of the 3rd petal: 1 plain, 2 plain more on the next stitches
**, 1 picot, 3 plain. Repeat 6 times from ** and finish with
2 chain.</p>
<p>On the 7th stitch of the 4th petal: 1 plain, 2 plain on the
next stitches ***, 1 picot, 3 plain. Repeat 4 times from ***.</p>
<p>On the 5th stitch of the 5th petal: 1 plain, and on the 4
next, 4 plain ****. Repeat from * to ** round each leaf,
then instead of a picot, make 4 chain, join between the 1st
and 2nd picot, 4 chain, close the picot. From this point the
preceding series of stitches takes the place of the picot that
immediately follows the sign **; proceed to ****.</p>
<p>Foundation for the footing of the lace, with a single row
<a name="Page_254" id="Page_254"></a>of leaves.—When all the leaves are joined together, take the
finer number of cotton and fasten your thread to the last
stitch of the small stalk; then make: * 2 chain, 1 plain on the
9th stitch of the 5th petal; 6 chain, miss 2, 1 plain on the 3rd
stitch; 6 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd stitch, 1 chain, 1 plain on
the 5th stitch of the 4th petal; 6 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd
chain; 2 chain, 1 plain on the 4th stitch (counting from the
bottom) of the 5th petal of the next leaf; 3 chain, 1 single on
the last stitch of the long stalk; 3 chain, join to the 3rd chain
stitch, 3 chain, draw the thread again in coming back through
the 3rd of the second set of 6 chain stitches in the 1st petal;
1 single; turning back and from left to right: 1 single on the
plain stitch between the chain stitches, 6 chain, 1 plain on the
2nd of the last 3 chain, 6 chain, 1 plain on the stalk, 6 chain,
1 plain on the 3rd stitch of the stalk; 6 chain, 1 plain on the
4th stitch of the stalk; 7 chain, 1 plain at the top of the little
stalk, then repeat from *. The network in the next rows, which
may be of any width, is composed of: 6 chain stitches and,
1 plain on the loop of the last row.</p>
<p>For the last row but one of the network, make: 4 chain,
1 plain over each loop, and complete the lace by a row of plain
stitches.</p>
<p>To make the leaves stand out from the foundation, use two
shades of thread, white and écru, white and Jaune-Rouille
365, or white and Gris-Cendre 415.</p>
<p>The following is the way to join two rows of leaves together,
that have previously been edged with picots.</p>
<p>Fasten the thread on to the little stalk, * 3 chain, 1 plain
on the 8th stitch of the leaf, 2 chain, join to the middle picot
of the 3rd petal of the top leaf; 2 chain, 3 plain on the 5th petal
of the bottom row, 1 picot, 3 plain.</p>
<p>For the 2nd petal of the bottom leaf: 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain.</p>
<p>For the 5th petal of the next leaf below: 3 plain, 4 chain,
1 single on the long stalk, 5 chain, 1 plain on the 2nd picot of
the 1st petal of the preceding leaf, 5 chain, 1 single on the 2nd
picot of the 4th petal of the top leaf, 4 chain, 1 plain on the
4th single of the stalk, 3 chain, 1 single on the 7th picot of
the 3rd petal of the top leaf, 3 chain, miss 1 stitch of the stalk,<a name="Page_255" id="Page_255"></a>
1 plain on the stalk, 3 chain, 1 plain on the 6th picot of the
top leaf, 3 chain, 1 plain on the little stalk. Repeat from *.</p>
<p>Three and even four rows of leaves may be joined together
in this manner and make a very handsome lace, particularly
suitable for church linen.</p>
<p><b>Insertion with waved braid</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_464">464</a>).—1 plain stitch at
the point of the braid, 7 chain, 1 single on the 2nd chain.
On the next chain stitches: 1 half-treble, 1 treble, 1 double
treble, 1 triple treble, 1 plain on the next point of the braid.</p>
<p>Repeat the same stitches on the second side, only that after
the 6th chain stitch, you draw the thread through the 7th of
the 1st finished row.</p>
<p>Little wheels, set between the crochet pyramids, and described
in the chapters on <a href="./chapter_12.html">filet-guipure</a> and <a href="./chapter_13.html">Irish lace</a>, complete
the insertion.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/477.jpg" width="600" height="382" alt="FIG. 464. INSERTION WITH WAVED BRAID" title="" />
<a name="fig_464" id="fig_464"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 464. Insertion with waved braid.<br />
Materials.</span>—According to the size of the braid: Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 20
to 70, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 40 to 70.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p><b>Crochet lace, made with leaf braid</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_465">465</a>).—Introduce
the thread into one of the leaves of the braid and working
from right to left, make for the outer border: * 1 plain, 2 chain,<a name="Page_256" id="Page_256"></a>
1 picot in bullion stitch, with 5 twists of the thread, 2 chain,
1 treble near the end of the leaf. Leave the last 2 loops of the
treble on the needle **.</p>
<p>Take 2 leaves of the braid, fold them one upon the other:
1 treble near the stalk of these folded leaves, tighten the loops
of the 2 trebles; chain ***, 1 picot, 2 chain, 1 plain, 2
chain. Repeat 5 times from ***.</p>
<p>Proceed with 1 picot, 2 chain,—there will be 7 picots round
the folded leaves—1 treble on the folded leaves and repeat
from ** to *, therefore the inverse way, and begin again from *.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
<img src="images/478.jpg" width="400" height="126" alt="FIG. 465. CROCHET LACE MADE WITH LEAF BRAID." title="" />
<a name="fig_465" id="fig_465"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 465. Crochet lace made with leaf braid.<br />
Materials:</span> Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 50 to 100
or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 50 to 80.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>For the footing of the lace, 4 rows are required.</p>
<p>1st row—* 1 double treble close to the stalk of the leaf, 5
chain, 1 treble, at the third of the leaf, 1 double treble at the
2nd third of the leaf, 5
chain, 2 double trebles,
one on the right leaf, one
on the left, draw the last
loops of the 2 trebles up
together and repeat from *.</p>
<p>2nd row—On each of
the little loops formed by
the 5 chain of the last row: 1 plain, 3 chain, 1 picot in bullion
stitch, 7 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain; 1 plain on the next loop and
so on.</p>
<p>3rd row—1 plain on the 4th of the 7 chain, 5 chain, 1 plain
and so on.</p>
<p>4th row—1 plain on each loop of the last row.</p>
<p><b>Crochet lace made with leaf braid</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_466">466</a>).—Begin
with the outside edge:</p>
<p>1st row:—At the end of a leaf: 1 treble, 6 chain, 1 picot
in bullion stitch, 6 chain, 1 treble = at the beginning of a 2nd
leaf: 6 chain, 1 picot, 6 chain, 1 treble at the end of the leaf
= 7 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd leaf = 6 chain,
1 picot, 6 chain, 1 treble at the end of the 3rd leaf = 6 chain,
1 treble, 6 chain, 1 treble on the 4th leaf = 1 double treble
joined to the 4th and 1st leaf of the next scallop = 1 treble
<a name="Page_257" id="Page_257"></a>at the end of the 1st leaf, join and draw the last loops of
these 3 trebles together.</p>
<p>2nd row—over each treble and picot: * 1 plain, 3 chain,
1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 1 plain = repeat 6 times
from *.</p>
<p>At the indent and before the last picot: 2 chain, 1 picot, 2
chain = 1 plain before the 1st picot of the next scallop.</p>
<p>3rd row—1 treble, 8 chain, repeat 6 times. In the indent
join the 4th of the 7 chain stitches right and left together by 1
treble.</p>
<p>4th row—15 single on each loop of 8 chain.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
<img src="images/479.jpg" width="500" height="272" alt="FIG. 466. CROCHET LACE MADE WITH LEAF BRAID." title="" />
<a name="fig_466" id="fig_466"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 466. Crochet lace made with leaf braid.<br />
Materials:</span> Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 40 to 80 or
Fil à dentelle Nos. 50 to 80.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>Inside junction.—Begin at the edge of the first leaf, fasten
on the thread and make 10 chain and, 1 double treble at the end
of the leaf, 1 triple treble, and draw up both together, 5 chain,
2 triple trebles
on the
leaves to the
right and
left = 5
chain, 2 triple
trebles,
one at the
end and the
other at the
beginning of
the 3rd and
4th leaf = 2
chain, 1 picot
in bullion stitch, 2 chain, 1 plain on the last stitch of the
first trebles, 10 chain, 1 plain on the last stitch of the last
trebles; 5 chain, 1 triple treble at the end of the 4th leaf.</p>
<p>Going back to the beginning: 5 chain, 1 single on the 10
chain above the picot = 5 chain, 1 single on the 5th of the
first 10 chain = 12 chain, 1 plain on the loop of the last triple
treble, 7 chain, 1 picot in bullion stitch, 6 chain = 1 plain on
<a name="Page_258" id="Page_258"></a>the stalk between the 2 leaves; 6 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1
triple treble on the leaf, 5 chain, repeat from *.</p>
<p>2nd row—5 chain, 1 treble on the lower loops. Distribute
the chain stitches equally.</p>
<p>3rd row—1 plain in the braid that forms the footing of the
lace, 2 chain, 1 plain on the last chain stitches, 2 chain, 1
plain in the braid, continuing in this manner to join the
crochet work and the braid together.</p>
<p><b>Irish lace</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_467">467</a>).—Begin with the semicircles in the
middle of the pattern, which arch over two scallops, and cast
on 117 chain. Then lay a double or threefold thread of Cordonnet
6 fils D.M.C No. 2, over the chain stitches, and make
one plain stitch on each; then cut the padding thread short off.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<a href="images/full_480.jpg"><img src="images/480.jpg" width="600" height="282" alt="FIG. 467. IRISH LACE" title="" /></a>
<a name="fig_467" id="fig_467"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 467. Irish lace.<br />
Materials:</span> Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 25 to 100, Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 30
or Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 30 to 100.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>On the other side of the chain make 2 plain, * 2 chain, 1
picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, miss 7; 1 plain on each of
the 2 next stitches **.</p>
<p>Repeat 11 times from * to **; the 11th time making only
6 chain.</p>
<p>2nd and 3rd row—On the upper side, over a double thread
of twist: 1 plain on each stitch of the last row; cut off the
padding thread = 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain,<a name="Page_259" id="Page_259"></a>
1 plain on the 4th of the 7 chain stitches after the first picot
of the preceding row = 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 1 plain on
the 4th of the next 7 chain stitches **. Repeat 11 times
from * to ** and then make: 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot,
2 chain, 1 plain.</p>
<p>On the upper side and without a padding thread: 3 plain,
1 picot, * 5 plain, 1 picot, **. Repeat 20 times from * to **.
Continue with: 3 plain, 10 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain on
the 4th of the first 7 chain of the 2nd row on the inside of
the semicircle = 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 1
plain on the plain stitch of the previous row = 1 plain on the
1st of the 3 chain = 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain,
2 plain as before, = 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 plain
= 2 chain, 1 picot, 9 chain, 1 plain, return and make on the
9 chain: 7 plain, 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain = make 4
more scallops like the previous one = 2 chain, 1 picot, 9 chain,
1 plain = return and make on the 9 chain: 7 plain, 2 chain,
1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain = make 2 more scallops, and then a
3rd joined to the scallop that terminates the semicircle on the
right by the 2 plain stitches = 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot,
2 chain, 2 plain on the point of the crescent = 22 scallops consisting
of: 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain.</p>
<p>9 plain on the scallop that terminates the semicircle on the
left, 7 chain, 2 plain on the next scallop, 2 chain, 1 picot, 2
chain, 2 plain on the next scallop = make 2 bars more of the
same kind = 7 chain, 2 plain = 3 bars like the previous ones
= 7 chain, 2 plain = 3 bars as before = 2 plain, 7 chain, 7
plain on the next scallop = 1 bar consisting of 3 chain, 1
picot, 3 chain, 2 plain over all the scallops of the preceding
row (24 scallops in all).</p>
<p>4th row—3 chain *, 8 trebles on the 7 chain that follow
the 7 plain = turn the work = 1 single on the last treble, 3
chain, 1 treble on the 7th and 1 on the 6th of the 8 trebles, 2
chain, 1 treble on the 5th and 1 on the 4th of the 8 trebles,
2 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd and 1 on the 2nd of the 8 trebles,
3 chain, 1 single on the 1st of the 8 trebles = turn the work
= ** on the 3 chain: 1 plain, 1 half-treble, 1 treble, 1 half-treble,
1 plain = 1 plain between the 2 trebles below = on
<a name="Page_260" id="Page_260"></a>the 2 chain, 1 plain, 1 half-treble, 1 treble, 1 half-treble,
1 plain *** = 1 plain between the 2 trebles beneath, repeat
from *** to **, therefore the reverse way.</p>
<p>Go on with 2 scallops consisting of 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain,
1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain = after the 2nd scallop: 2 chain, 1
picot, 5 chain = 8 trebles on the 7 chain over the 7 plain and
finish the little flowers consisting of 4 scallops each, like the
first from * to *** and from *** to ** = 2 plain to get
back to the scallop = 1 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain, 3 chain,
1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain, 3 chain, 1 picot,
3 chain, and make a 3rd flower of 4 scallops like the 2 others
= 2 single to come back to the scallop, 2 chain, 1 picot, 2
chain, 2 plain = 2 more scallops like the previous ones, then
make the 4th flower of 4 scallops, which must come before the
7 plain stitches of the previous row = 20 scallops consisting
of: 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain = the last
scallop is to be joined to the 1st scallop of the 1st flower, under
the left point of the semicircle = 3 single along the small scallop,
3 trebles, 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain on the point of the
scallop = 3 bars like the previous ones to be joined to the 2
next scallops = 3 similar bars between the small scallops = 1
single on the scallop between the 2 flowers and 1 single on
the 2nd set of chain stitches in the scallop that precedes the
3rd flower = 1 single on the point of the 1st scallop of the 3rd
flower = continue the little bars along the 2nd side until past
the 4th flower = after the 4th flower make 2 bars consisting
of 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain = 3 chain, 1 picot, 3
chain, 2 plain on the next scallop **** 7 chain, 2 plain on
the next scallop, 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain on the next
scallop, 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain on the next scallop,
3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain on the next scallop *****
repeat five times from **** to *****. At the 2nd repetition
make 1 bar with 1 picot more, so that you have 4 bars
instead of 3. At the 5th repetition you decrease by 1 bar, so
that you have 2 instead of 3.</p>
<p>1 plain on the point of the scallop of the flower, 3 chain,
1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 3 plain, one of which is made
on the 2nd plain of the previous row, and the 2nd on the bar of
<a name="Page_261" id="Page_261"></a>chain stitches = 3 plain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2
plain = 2 more similar scallops = then 3 chain, 1 picot, 9
chain, 1 plain on the 2nd plain of the previous row = join and
on the 9 chain make 7 plain = 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain,
2 plain.</p>
<p>Over the 1st little flower inside the semicircles, make 1 scallop
like the previous ones = then 3 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 2
plain on the 3rd point of the first flower = 2 chain, 2 plain on
the 2nd point of the second flower = 6 plain on the scallop
and joined to the 3rd point of the first flower = 3 chain, 1 picot,
3 chain = 2 plain = 1 scallop like the previous ones, 2 plain
on the 4th point of the small flower, 3 chain, 1 picot, 9 chain,
1 plain = 7 plain over the 9 chain = 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain,
2 plain.</p>
<p>Make 7 scallops of: 3 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 3
chain, 2 plain, after the 7th scallop make 1 chain only, which
must come just before the 7th chain to the left without a picot
and above the point of the semicircle.</p>
<p>Over the 7 chain make a flower like the first with 4 scallops
= then 3 scallops, 3 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain,
2 plain. Make one more flower with 4 scallops, 3 scallops like
the previous ones = a third flower with 4 scallops, 2 chain, 2
plain, one of them above the point of the row beneath, 12
chain, 1 plain over the next scallop = turn the work and coming
back over the row just made, make: 7 plain on the first 7 of
the 12 chain, 1 plain on the point of the scallop, 4 chain, 1
picot, 4 chain, 1 plain on the next scallop, carry on the bars
over the flowers and scallops, making 1 plain on the scallops
of the flower and 2 plain on the other scallops, up to the 5
plain stitches between the 2 flowers underneath the semicircle.</p>
<p>After the plain stitch that joins the last bar, turn the
work and make 23 scallops consisting of: 4 chain, 1 picot, 7
chain, 1 picot, 4 chain, 2 plain.</p>
<p>Cut off the thread and fasten it on above the semicircle and
at the plain stitch which precedes the 7 chain without picot and
make the second side like the first = having reached the
middle, close to the 5 plain, turn the work = make the half
<a name="Page_262" id="Page_262"></a>round of bars and fasten off at the 4th scallop of the flower
above the semicircle.</p>
<p>Fasten on at the point under the flowers where the work
was turned and on the wrong side, and from right to left,
work: 21 scallops consisting of 4 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1
picot, 4 chain, 2 plain = then add: 4 chain, 1 picot, 10 chain,
1 plain above the point of the scallop of the small flower =
turn the work: 7 plain over the 10 chain.</p>
<p>22 bars of 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain = after the 22nd
bar, 10 chain = come back and join to the picot of the 21st
bar = 2 chain, 8 trebles over the 10 chain and complete the
flower as before. After the 4th scallop of the flower: 2 chain,
1 single, quite close to the 8 trebles, 3 chain, 2 plain on the
next bar, 3 chain, 1 picot, join to the 2nd stitch of the 4th
scallop of the flower, 3 chain, carry on the bars the same distance
as on the first side.</p>
<p>Footing of the lace—On the chain stitches that follow the
3rd plain stitch and above the last little figure: 1 triple treble,
6 chain, join to the middle plain stitch = miss 1 scallop, 1
treble, 6 chain = miss 1 scallop, 1 double treble, 6 chain, =
miss 1 scallop, 1 triple treble, 6 chain, = miss 1 scallop of
the figure on the left, 1 double treble, 6 chain = miss 1 scallop,
1 treble, 6 chain = miss 1 scallop, 1 double treble, 6 chain =
miss 1 scallop, 1 treble, 6 chain = miss 1 scallop, 1 treble,
6 chain = miss 1 scallop, 1 double treble, 6 chain, 1 triple
treble, 6 chain, 1 quadruple treble on the next plain stitch.
Repeat the whole, reversed, and finish off the footing with a
row of plain stitches.</p>
<p>Edge of the lace.—Fasten on, where the semicircles join:
1 double treble on the first 3 chain stitches of the empty
scallop, 5 chain, 1 double treble on the next disengaged chain
stitches of the half scallop; continue the same on all the chain
scallops and distribute the trebles so that there may be in all,
13 times 5 chain stitches.</p>
<p>Add 2 triple trebles, the last loops of them, connected
by a plain stitch; the 1st triple treble on the 3 last chain
stitches of the last scallop, the 2nd on the plain stitch, that
<a name="Page_263" id="Page_263"></a>follows the 1st scallop of the middle figure = 4 chain, 1 treble
on the plain stitch of the 2nd point. Repeat the same, reversed.</p>
<p>2nd row—On the first 5 chain of the last row: 5 plain =
on the next 5 chain: 5 plain = on the 3 chain, leave a space:
5 plain, 12 chain, come back and join to the 8th chain stitch
by a single stitch = on the scallop: 4 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain,
1 picot, 4 plain = and so on, until you have 8 points altogether.</p>
<p>The plain stitches must be distributed as follows:</p>
<p>For the 2nd point: in the 4th space 4 plain, in the 5th space
3 plain = for the 3rd point: in the 5th space, 2 plain, in the
6th space, 5 plain = for the 4th point: in the 6th space 1 plain,
in the 7th space 6 plain = for the 5th point: in the 8th space
4 plain, in the 9th space 3 plain = for the 6th point: in the
9th space 3 plain, in the 10th space 4 plain = for the 7th
point: in the 11th space 7 plain = for the 8th point: in the
12th space 7 plain = 5 plain in each of the 2 remaining spaces.</p>
<p><b>Crochet lace</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_468">468</a>).—This is always an effective pattern,
in any number of thread. It is not new, however, and is probably
already known to many of our readers as a pillow lace.
Those who are not fond of making pillow lace, will be glad to
learn how to reproduce it in crochet, as it makes a pretty trimming,
both for wearing apparel and furniture. For furniture,
it should be made in unbleached cotton, for articles of dress, in
any of the of the finer numbers, referred to above.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<a href="images/full_481.jpg"><img src="images/481.jpg" width="600" height="472" alt="FIG. 468. CROCHET LACE." title="" /></a>
<a name="fig_468" id="fig_468"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 468. Crochet lace.<br />
Materials.</span>—For trimming curtains and coarse linen table covers: Fil à pointer
D.M.C No. 25 or 30, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 10 to 25 écru.
For articles of dress: Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 30 to 70,
Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 25 to 70, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 70 écru.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>For the separate squares, cast on 10 chain stitches, and
close the ring.</p>
<p>1st row—* 5 chain, 1 plain on the ring. Repeat 3 times
from *.</p>
<p>2nd row—1 chain, 1 plain on the first 5 chain: * 5 chain,
1 plain = on the first 5 chain of the 1st row: 2 chain, 1 plain
on the second 5 chain of the 1st row. Repeat 3 times from *.</p>
<p>3rd row—1 plain on the first 5 of the 2nd row: * 5 chain,
1 plain, 2 chain, 1 plain, 2 chain, 1 plain. Repeat 3 times from *.</p>
<p>In the 4th and following rows, go on increasing, as in the
3rd row, until, on all 4 sides, you have 11 plain stitches between
every 5 chain.</p>
<p>12th row—1 plain, 5 chain, 1 plain, * 1 picot made of 4
chain, 1 plain between the 1st and the 2nd plain of the last row,<a name="Page_264" id="Page_264"></a>
2 chain, 1 plain between the next 2 plain. Repeat 3 times from
*, and fasten off.</p>
<p>Crochet the squares together, as you finish them. After the
12th and last plain stitch, make: 2 chain, drop the loop, put the
hook into the 3rd of the 5 chain stitches that form one corner
of the square, draw the dropped loop through, 2 chain, close
the picot, finish the square.</p>
<p>For the star that connects the squares—10 chain, close the
ring; * 4 chain, 1 picot, 4 chain, 1 over, join the 2 picots right
and left of the squares that are to be joined together, by 1 treble;
4 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, drop the loop, put the needle into the
first of the first 4 chain stitches, draw the thread through, 2
<a name="Page_265" id="Page_265"></a>plain on the ring, 8 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd picot and 1 treble
on the 4th picot of the square = coming back: 1 plain on each
of the 8 chain; 2 plain on the ring, and repeat 3 times from *.</p>
<p>For the half-star, that fills the space under the footing of
the lace: 10 chain, close the ring = 9 chain, 1 treble on the
1st picot of the square; 4 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain; draw the
thread through the 1st of the 9 chain = 2 plain, 8 chain, join
the 3rd and 4th picots of the square by 1 treble bar on each
picot = 8 single stitches on the 8 chain, 2 plain on the ring;
4 chain, 1 picot, 4 chain = on the 1st and last picot of the 2
opposite squares: 1 treble, 4 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, drop the
loop, draw it through the 1st of the 4 chain stitches = 2 plain,
8 chain, join 2 picots by 2 trebles = 8 single, 2 plain on the
ring, 4 chain, 1 picot, 4 chain, 1 treble on the last picot =
8 chain, draw the thread through the 1st of the 4 chain.</p>
<p>The footing is made as follows—* 1 plain on the 5 upper
chain stitches of the square; 17 chain up to the ring, 3 plain,
17 chain and repeat from *. A row of plain stitches completes
the footing.</p>
<p>Outer edge—* 2 treble on the 1st picot, 4 chain, and
repeat 5 times from *.</p>
<p>On the 5 chain stitches, in the corner, make: 1 treble =
4 chain, 1 treble on the 5 chain and finish the second side of
the square like the first. Omit the chain stitches, between the
1st and last trebles of the squares.</p>
<p>The next and last row consists of: 2 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain
every 4 chain. On the last 4 chain, at the point where 2 scallops
join, make 4 plain stitches, without picots.</p>
<p><b>Lace with stars</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_469">469</a>).—Begin with the stars, make
a chain of 18 stitches, close the ring, mount it on a mould,
wind a soft thread, such as Coton à repriser D.M.C No 60,
seven or eight times round it, and make 30 plain stitches upon
it, joining the last to the first by a single stitch.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
<a href="images/full_482.jpg"><img src="images/482.jpg" width="550" height="253" alt="FIG. 469. LACE WITH STARS." title="" /></a>
<a name="fig_469" id="fig_469"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 469. Lace with stars.<br />
Materials:</span> Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 30 to 70, Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 25 or 30,
Coton pour crochet D.M.C Nos. 8 to 12.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>Then: * 13 chain, and returning, miss the 1st chain = on
the 12 chain: 1 single, 2 plain, 2 half-trebles, 2 trebles, 2
double trebles, 1 double treble and a half, 2 triple trebles; keep
the two last loops of the last treble but one, on the needle, and
join them, to those of the last treble. Repeat 5 times from *.</p><p><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266"></a></p>
<p>2nd row—1 plain, on the upper stitch that was missed in
the 1st row; * 17 chain, 1 plain on the next point. Repeat 5
times from *.</p>
<p>3rd row—* 6 plain, 3 chain, miss 2 stitches of the lower
row. Repeat from *.</p>
<p>4th row—All round the last row, on each of the bottom
stitches 1 plain; after every 6 stitches, 1 picot. This will give
you 19 picots in all, separated from each other by 6 stitches.</p>
<p>Inner connection—Fasten on the thread at the 5th treble,
counting from the ring: 1 single, 8 chain. Draw out the thread,
from the back, through the 9th of the 17 chain round the
star = 8 chain * join with 1 chain to the 5th treble, passing
the thread through to the back = work on the wrong side:
3 chain, bring the thread back between the 5th treble to the
right side, and repeat 5 times from *. In joining the stars,
place them so that 9 picots are turned to the edge, and 8 to
the footing. The 10th and the 19th picots serve to join the stars.</p>
<p>1st row—2 trebles between the 19th and the 9th of the * 9
picots, 7 chain, 1 treble; repeat 9 times from *.</p>
<p>After the 10th treble, make no more chain stitches, but 1
<a name="Page_267" id="Page_267"></a>treble immediately between the 19th and the 1st picot of the
next row.</p>
<p>2nd row—On the 7 first chain stitches of the last row: 3
plain, 4 half-trebles, 3 trebles, 1 picot, 3 trebles, 1 picot, and
so on, until in the semicircle over the picots, you have 7 times
7 chain stitches and 16 picots = on the ninth set of 7 chain: 3
trebles, 4 half trebles, 3 plain.</p>
<p>The scallops are joined by smaller ones, formed of: 3 plain,
4 half trebles, 3 trebles, 1 picot, 2 trebles, 7 chain, drop the
loop, put the needle into the same treble of the last scallop;
draw the loop through and make on the 7 chain: 1 plain, 1
half-treble, 5 trebles, 1 picot, 5 trebles, 1 half-treble, 1 plain;
continue the large scallop, as described above.</p>
<p>The footing is composed of rings and trebles.—Begin
with a ring, like those in the middle of the stars, worked as
follows: 18 chain, with 28 plain upon them = miss 1 plain
stitch of the ring, 3 plain, 10 chain = miss 1 plain, 3 plain, 10
chain = miss 1 plain, 3 plain, 5 chain, 1 single on the 7th
picot of the 1st star, 5 chain = miss 1 plain, 3 plain, 5 chain,
1 single on the 8th picot, 5 chain = miss 1 plain, 3 plain, 5
chain, 1 single on the 2nd picot, 5 chain, finish off.</p>
<p>Straight edge—Worked from right to left = 1 chain * turn
the thread 7 times round the needle, join to the plain stitch
between the 7th and 6th picot, complete the long treble, 7
chain, join 1 treble, consisting of six overs to the 1st treble; 1
quintuple treble between the 6th and the 5th picot; 7 chain,
1 quadruple treble joined to the previous treble = in all, 10
trebles, the 1st made with 7 overs, the 2nd with 6, the 3rd
with 5, the 4th with 4, the 5th and 6th with 3, the 7th with
4, the 8th with 5, the 9th with 6, the 10th with 7; and between
every 2 trebles, 7 chain.</p>
<p>The 3 long trebles of the ring are taken up with 1 plain
and 7 chain between.</p>
<p><b>Guipure lace</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_470">470</a>).—We advise our readers to work
this charming pattern, in unbleached Fil à dentelle D.M.C
No 50, because it imitates the appearance of old lace better
than any other material.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
<a href="images/full_483.jpg"><img src="images/483.jpg" width="500" height="360" alt="FIG. 470. GUIPURE LACE." title="" /></a>
<a name="fig_470" id="fig_470"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 470. Guipure lace.<br />
Materials:</span> Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 30 to 100, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C
Nos. 25 to 100, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 100.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>Lozenge-shaped figures in the centre—5 chain, close the ring.</p><p><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268"></a></p>
<p>1st row—5 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 1 treble on the ring =
5 chain, 1 treble on the ring = 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 1
treble on the ring = 5 chain on the 3rd of the first 5 chain.</p>
<p>2nd row—12 chain, * 1 treble on the 1st treble of the 1st
row = 4 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd of the next 5 chain = 5
chain, 1 treble on the same stitch as the last treble = 4 chain,
** 1 treble on the 2nd treble of the 1st row, 9 chain. Repeat
from * to **; join the last 4 chain, to the 3rd of the first 12
chain, by a single stitch.</p>
<p>3rd row—1 chain, 4 plain, 3 plain on the 5th of the 9 chain
of the last row = 12 plain, 5 plain on the 3rd of the 5 chain,
between the 2 trebles, 12 plain, 3 plain on the 5th of the lower
9 chain = 12 plain, 5 plain on the 3rd of the 5 chain, 7 plain;
finish the row with a single stitch.</p>
<p>4th row—3 chain, 1 treble on each of the next 5 plain; 3
trebles on the 6th plain; 1 treble on each of the next 15 plain,
5 trebles on the 16th stitch; 15 trebles on the 2nd side; and
<a name="Page_269" id="Page_269"></a>again 3 trebles on the 16th stitch; 15 trebles on the 3rd side;
5 trebles on the 16th stitch, 9 trebles and join to the 3rd of the
3 chain.</p>
<p>5th row—1 chain, 6 plain, 3 plain on the 7th stitch beneath,
* 18 plain, 3 plain on the 19th stitch. Repeat twice from *.</p>
<p>6th row—1 chain, 1 picot, 2 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain, 1 picot
= towards the point: 3 plain, 1 picot = on the 2nd side of the
square: 3 plain, 1 picot, and 5 times 2 plain, 1 picot = towards
the point: 4 plain, 1 picot.</p>
<p>On the 3rd side as on the 2nd, only reversed, first 4 plain,
and at the point 3 plain; on the 4th side as on the 2nd; on the
1st side must still be added 3 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain, 1 picot,
2 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain; draw the thread through the loop and
fasten off.</p>
<p>The oblong squares, that connect the lozenges, take 7 rows
of plain stitches. Make a chain of 14 = turn the work = 13
plain; add 5 rows of the same number of stitches. On the
short side, and at the edge of the square: 1 picot, 3 plain, *
9 chain, miss 1 chain = returning: 1 plain on the 8th chain
= on the next 7 chain: 1 half treble, 3 trebles, 1 half treble,
2 plain on the last chain stitches = on the 2nd half of the short
side: 3 plain, 1 picot = on the long side: 3 plain **, 1 picot,
3 plain ***. Repeat the whole twice from * to ***, and
then once from * to ** only.</p>
<p>The row of bars, that encircles the small leaves, begins with
2 single stitches on the first picot, then add: **** 3 chain, 1 picot,
3 chain, 1 treble on the 9th chain of the small leaf; on the
short side: 1 chain, 1 picot, 1 chain, 1 triple treble on the 9th
chain of the leaf; drop the thread, bring it out from the back, by
the side of the picot that forms the corner on the long side of the
lozenge = 1 chain, 1 picot, 1 chain, 1 treble on the small leaf
= 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 1 treble on the picot, forming the
corner of the oblong square = 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 1
treble on the leaf on the long side of the square = 3 chain,
1 treble on the same stitch as the 1st treble is on = 3 chain,
1 treble on the same stitch as the 2 first trebles are on; 3 chain,
1 picot, 3 chain, 1 treble on the picot at the corner. Repeat
once from ****.</p><p><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270"></a></p>
<p>Upper and lower edge—6 chain, 1 sextuple treble on the
2nd picot of the lozenge = 6 chain, 1 triple treble on the 4th
picot of the lozenge. Coming back over the 2 trebles of 6 chain,
work in 3 journeys to and fro, 13 plain stitches.</p>
<p>After the 2nd row of plain stitches, 1 quintuple treble on the
6th treble of the lozenge, and then 4 rows of plain stitches.</p>
<p>After the 6th row, pass at once to the leaves above the
lozenge: ***** 15 chain, 1 plain on the picot that forms the point
of the lozenge = turn the work to the wrong side = on the
chain stitches work: ****** 3 plain, 1 half treble, 4 trebles,
1 half treble, 3 plain = turn the work to the right side
= returning and starting from the point of the leaf: 1 chain
and 1 plain on each of the lower stitches.</p>
<p>For the 2nd leaf: 12 chain = turn the work and repeat, as
for the former leaf, from ***** to ******.</p>
<p>This leaf, being finished like the first, with this difference
that it ends at the upper point, you pass to the 2nd little
square: 6 chain, 1 sextuple treble on the picot next to the leaves;
3 chain, 1 triple treble on the 3rd picot, counted from the leaves
= 6 chain, 1 sextuple treble on the 5th picot of the lozenge;
keep the 2 last loops of the treble on the needle, 1 sextuple
treble on the picot between every 3 chain of the small square
with leaves; draw up the 2 last loops together with those already
on the needle = 6 chain, 1 triple treble on the picot on
the long side of the small square = 3 rows of 13 plain each.</p>
<p>With the last stitch of each of these rows, take 1 of the
chain stitches between the long trebles.</p>
<p>After the 3rd row: 1 sextuple treble on the first treble on
the small leaf of the small middle square = 3 rows of plain
stitches to finish the square, and repeat from *****.</p>
<p>The upper row is similar to this but should be worked
from right to left.</p>
<p>Scalloped edge.—In the right corner of the 1st oblong
figure of the outside corner: 1 double treble, 2 chain, 1
double treble on the 4th plain stitch = 2 chain, 1 double treble
on the stitch that forms the corner stitch of the square = 2
chain, 1 plain at the extremity of the first long leaf, 9 chain = 1
quadruple treble on the stitch between the 2 leaves = 2 chain,<a name="Page_271" id="Page_271"></a>
1 quadruple treble on the same stitch and on the 1st treble
= 2 chain, 1 quadruple treble on the same stitch = 9 chain,
1 plain on the last stitch of the 2nd long leaf = turn the work:
1 chain, 1 plain on each of the chain stitches, and on each
treble, 27 plain stitches in all = turn the work: 1 chain, 1
plain, 2 chain, 1 plain on the 2nd plain; repeat the last 12
times. Take in 1 stitch on each side in every row, turn the
work after each row, and at the end of the last fasten off.
Fasten on at the foot of the scallop, not at the point, and work
plain stitches all round it; 20 plain to the upper point, 40 in all.</p>
<p>The open-work edge of the scallops consists entirely of
double trebles.—After the 40 plain stitches of the edge: 2
chain, 1 treble on the 1st plain stitch of the small square =
turn the work: * 2 chain, 1 treble on the 2nd of the plain
stitches, forming the edge of the scallop **; repeat 7 times from
* to ** = *** 2 chain, 1 treble on the next plain stitch =
2 chain, 1 treble on the next plain = repeat 4 times from ***;
and then 7 times from * to ** = 2 chain, 1 plain on the
4th treble of the square; 2 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd treble.</p>
<p>Work on, on the right side = **** 2 chain and 1 treble
on the preceding treble as far as the 8th treble; after the 8th:
***** 10 chain, back to the 7th, and returning, join to the
7th treble = on the 10 chain: 16 plain, after the 16th draw the
loop through the upper loop of the 8th treble = ****** 2
chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, 1 treble, 10 chain, return, and fasten
the chain stitches to the last treble but one = 6 plain, 1 picot,
2 plain, 1 picot, 6 plain and join as before ******* =
Repeat once from ***** to *******, then twice, from
***** to ******, then from **** to *****, as on the
first side, only 1 treble less = then 1 treble on the 4th plain
stitch of the small square, 2 chain, 1 treble on the 7th plain
stitch of the square, 2 chain, 1 treble on the 10th plain stitch,
1 treble on the outside stitch, at the corner of the square, 2
chain, 1 plain on the last stitch of the leaf; 9 chain and so on,
as above described.</p>
<p>Having reached the second scallop, on the 2nd row of trebles,
at the sign ***, work: 2 chain, 1 treble to the left on the
scallop just finished, keeping the last loops of the treble on the
<a name="Page_272" id="Page_272"></a>needle, 1 double treble to the right of the scallop and join it
to the 2nd treble; draw the 4 loops together = 2 chain, 1 treble
to the left, 1 quadruple treble to the right = 11 chain, drop the
loop, bring it to the right side through the 4th treble of the
right scallop = on these 11 chain stitches: 1 single, 1 plain,
1 half treble, 2 trebles, 1 half treble, 1 plain, 1 single = 1
double treble on the open-work edge, then 2 chain, 1 treble,
2 chain, 1 treble, 12 chain; join to the 6th treble of the right
scallop = working back: 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4
plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, join to the treble, thrice 2 chain, 1
treble. Go back to ***** and repeat twice to *******.</p>
<p>The footing of the lace is worked in 5 rows from right to
left.</p>
<p>1st row—1 single, * 1 double treble on the 6th plain stitch
of the square = 1 chain, 1 double treble on the 2nd plain stitch of
the square = 3 chain, 1 picot downwards, 3 chain, 1 plain on the
stitch at the extremity of the long leaf = 3 chain, 1 picot downwards,
3 chain, 2 quadruple trebles between the two leaves = 3
chain, 1 picot downwards, 3 chain, 1 plain on the last stitch
of the 2nd leaf, 3 chain; repeat from *.</p>
<p>2nd row—1 plain on each stitch of the previous row.</p>
<p>3rd row—count 2 stitches before and above the 2 trebles
on the squares and make: * 1 treble, miss 1 stitch, 1 treble,
miss 1 stitch, 1 treble, miss 1 stitch, 1 treble = turn the work:
1 plain on each of the 4 trebles = turn the work, come back
and make 4 plain on the first 4 = 5 chain, miss 2 stitches of
the 2nd row, 1 treble on the 3rd plain, and continue from *.</p>
<p>4th row—1 treble on each of the 4 plain, 1 chain between
each treble, 2 chain and so on.</p>
<p>5th row—1 plain stitch on each of the stitches of the 4th
row.</p>
<p><b>Crochet Reticella lace</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_471">471</a>).—This pattern, copied
in crochet from an old piece of Reticella lace, only looks well,
worked in very fine cotton, as indicated in our illustration,
namely, in unbleached Fil à dentelle D.M.C No 150. To make
it resemble the original more closely, the method adopted in
Venetian point, of making all the stitches over a padding
thread, has, in the case of the outside edge, been followed here.</p><p><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273"></a></p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<a href="images/full_484.jpg"><img src="images/484.jpg" width="600" height="269" alt="FIG. 471. CROCHET RETICELLA LACE." title="" /></a>
<a name="fig_471" id="fig_471"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 471. Crochet reticella lace.<br />
Materials:</span> Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 30 to 100, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 150.</span>
</div>
<p>At the end of each row of plain stitches, draw out a sufficiently
long loop to lay it back over the stitches just made, and to
work the next row of stitches over this double foundation.
These loops must be long enough, not to pucker or tighten
the scallops.</p>
<p>For the inner squares = 4 chain, close the ring.</p>
<p>1st row—8 chain, 1 treble, 3 chain, 1 double treble, 3
chain, 1 treble, 3 chain, 1 double treble, 3 chain, 1 treble, 3
chain, 1 double treble, 3 chain, 1 treble, 3 chain, 1 single
stitch on the 5th of the 8 chain.</p>
<p>2nd row—* 1 chain, 5 plain on the first 3 chain, 5 plain
on the next 3 chain. On these 10 plain stitches, working to and
fro, 9 rows of plain stitches, decreasing by 1 in each row; after
the last stitch, come back along the side of the little triangle,
and make 1 single stitch in every row, 1 plain on the treble of
the 1st row **; repeat 3 times from * to **.</p>
<p>These small triangles must be worked over 1 single treble
and between 2 double trebles.</p>
<p>When the 4th triangle is finished, make directly, starting
from the last stitch at the point, and along the side: 3 plain,
1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain; 1 single stitch on the treble;
all the triangles must be edged, in this same manner on both
sides; on the stitch that forms the point: 3 plain stitches.</p>
<p>3rd row—* 17 chain, drop the loop = bring it to the front,
through the plain stitch that lies between 2 triangles; return<a name="Page_274" id="Page_274"></a>ing,
make 10 single stitches backwards on the 10 chain.
You make stitches like this, backwards, in all the trebles that
follow, that is, the loop is dropped after each stitch, and
brought forward from the wrong side to the right = 13 chain,
join to the 5th single, counting upwards from below = 7 single
on the chain stitches; 13 chain, join to the other trebles; 6
chain, 1 single on the stitch at the point of the triangle **;
repeat 3 times from * to **. = The chain stitches for the
trebles, must be drawn up very tight.</p>
<p>4th row—1 plain on each of the stitches of the preceding
row, 3 plain on the corner stitch. On each side there must be
29 plain stitches, not counting the corner ones.</p>
<p>5th row = 6 chain, miss 2 stitches of the row beneath, *
1 double treble, 2 chain; repeat 3 times from * = 2 chain,
1 double treble, 2 chain, 1 double treble on the same stitch
as the 1st treble = 2 chain, 1 double treble on the same stitch
as the 1st treble = 2 chain, 1 double treble on the same stitch
as the two first trebles = 10 times to the next corner: 2 chain,
1 double treble, 3 double trebles, each of them with 2 chain
stitches at the corner; repeat the same on each of the 4 sides.</p>
<p>6th row—1 plain on each of the stitches of the last row, 3
plain on the corner stitch = cut off the thread. Join the next
squares together at once by the last corner stitch.</p>
<p>Lower edge—You begin by making the large scallop at the
point of the square, and pass the double thread over the 3rd
treble that comes before the 3 trebles at the point of the square
and make: 1 plain stitch on each stitch of the square, up to the
3rd treble on the opposite side; then draw out a long loop
which you carry back to the beginning. In the 2nd row increase
by 2 stitches, right and left of the middle stitches, for the
rounding of the scallop, and decrease by 1 on each side. Make
10 rows in all, and in each row, decrease by 4 stitches and
increase by 2. Fasten off after the 10th row.</p>
<p>The two little scallops, right and left of the big one, are
worked in 5 rows, over 5 trebles and 4 intervals of chain
stitches, taking off 2 stitches in every row. For the small
triangle between, worked in 4 rows, you must increase on
both sides by 2 stitches.</p><p><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275"></a></p>
<p>When all the scallops are finished, edge them with 3 plain
stitches, 1 picot and 3 plain and work in all the ends of thread
from the preceding rows at the same time.</p>
<p>For the footing and the small triangles, that fill up the
spaces between the squares: 22 chain, miss 1, 10 rows of
plain stitches, worked to and fro, decreasing by 1 in every row.</p>
<p>When the triangle is finished, make on one side, 1 single
in every row; then, on the 11 remaining chain stitches,
a second triangle, like the first, which you then join to the
plain stitches, above the 5th treble; then returning along the
side of the triangle, add 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3
plain; 1 single on each of the 22 chain stitches.</p>
<p>Edge the next side of the 2nd triangle like the first, join the
corner stitch to the 5th treble; edge the two inner sides 3
times with 3 plain stitches and 2 picots.</p>
<p>Then from right to left on the plain stitches: 6 plain, 15
chain, join them to the middle of the 2 triangles = 1 single
on each chain, 5 plain on the square; 11 chain, 1 single on
the 9th of the first 15 chain; 1 single stitch on each of the
chain stitches; 1 plain on each stitch of the square, to the
point where the squares join, 8 chain, 1 single on the 6th of
the 11 chain, 1 single on each of the 8 chain.</p>
<p>On the 2nd side: 7 plain, 5 chain, 1 single on the 6th of the
11 chain, 1 single on each of the 5 chain, 5 plain, 9 chain, 1
single on the 9th of the 15 chain, 1 single on each of the 9
chain, 6 plain on the square; fasten off.</p>
<p>Fasten on, at the 2nd of the 3 corner stitches = 17 chain,
1 plain on the corner stitch of the triangle; 8 chain, 1 plain
on the next corner stitch, 17 chain, and so on.</p>
<p>A row of plain stitches, or trebles, completes the lace.</p>
<p><b>Lace with corner, formed by increasing on the outside</b>
(fig. <a href="#fig_472">472</a>).—1st row—On a row of chain stitches or trebles,
work alternately: 1 chain, 1 treble = on the corner: 1 chain,
1 treble, 2 chain, so that the last 3 trebles come on one stitch.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<a href="images/full_485.jpg"><img src="images/485.jpg" width="600" height="619" alt="FIG. 472. LACE WITH CORNER, FORMED BY INCREASING ON THE OUTSIDE." title="" /></a>
<a name="fig_472" id="fig_472"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 472. Lace with corner, formed by increasing on the outside.
<br />
Materials:</span> Fil d'Alsace D.M.C No. 30, Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 20 to 30, Cordonnet 6 fils
D.M.C Nos. 15 to 30, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>2nd row—1 plain on each stitch of the 1st row, 3 plain on
the 2nd of the 3 corner trebles.</p>
<p>3rd row—Counting from the 2nd of the 3 corner stitches,
and towards the left, make 1 plain on the 53rd, 52nd, 51st
<a name="Page_276" id="Page_276"></a>and 50th plain stitches; 8 chain, miss 1 chain, 1 plain on
each of the 7 chain stitches = on the other side of the 8
chain, also 1 plain on each
stitch, 3 plain on the 8th
chain, 1 plain on each of
the first 7 plain.</p>
<p>On the next 11 stitches of the 2nd row: 1 plain = 4 chain,
miss 4, 1 triple treble on the 5th of the 2nd row, 4 chain, 1
triple treble on the same stitch, 4 chain, 1 triple treble on the
same stitch, 4 chain, miss 4, 1 single on the 5th = turn the
work = on each treble of 4 chain: 7 plain; 28 in all; 1 single
on the 10th of the 11 plain = turn the work = miss the 28th
plain, and on the 27 others make: 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain =
11 chain, miss the 11th, 10 plain on the others = on the 2nd
<a name="Page_277" id="Page_277"></a>side of the chain: 4 plain, 10 chain, join them to the 6th of
the first 11 plain of this row = on the 10 chain: 5 plain,
3 chain, join them to the 5th plain of the 1st leaf, made in
this row = on the 3 chain: 3 plain = on those of the 10
remaining chain stitches: 6 plain = along the leaf: 3 plain, 1
picot, 3 plain = on the stitch at the point of the leaf: 3
plain = then down the 2nd side: 3 plain, 1 picot, 7 plain =
over the next of the 28 plain: 3 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain =
* 11 chain, miss the 11th, 10 plain = on the second side
of the chain: 4 plain, 6 chain, join them to the 4th of the
last 7 plain of the 2nd leaf = on the 6 chain: 9 plain.
Continue on the 3rd leaf of this row: 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain
and 3 plain on the stitch at the point of the leaf = on each
of the next 3 stitches: 1 plain, then 1 picot, 7 plain = on the
28 stitches: 4 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain **. Repeat from * to
**, and here follow: 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain.</p>
<p>On the 2nd row: *** 5 plain, 10 chain, join them to the
4th of the last 7 plain of the 3rd leaf; 11 plain over the 10
chain = on the 2nd row: 5 plain, 8 chain, miss 1 chain, 1 plain
on each chain = on the second side: 4 plain, 3 chain, join
them to the 6th of the last 11 plain = 3 plain on the leaf, 3
plain on the stitch at the point, 7 plain, and repeat from *.</p>
<p>On the 2nd row and for the corner: 9 plain, **** 4 chain,
1 triple treble on the 2nd of the 3 corner stitches and repeat 4
times from **** = 4 chain, miss 4 of the preceding row, 1
plain on the 5th = turn the work, on each bar of 4 chain, 6
plain, 36 in all, join the last to the 8th of the 9 plain = going
back over the 36 plain: 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 11 chain,
miss the 11th, 1 plain on each of the 10 chain = on the 2nd
side of the chain: 4 plain, 10 chain, join them to the 4th of
the 9 plain = over the 10 chain: 5 plain, 3 chain, join them
to the 4th plain of the last leaf, 3 plain = on the remainder
of the 10 chain: 6 plain.</p>
<p>Proceeding along the leaf: 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 3 plain on
the stitch at the point, 3 plain, 1 picot, 7 plain *****. Again
on the 36 plain, make: 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 11 chain, miss
the 11th, 10 plain = on the 2nd side of the chain: 4 plain, 6
chain, join them to the 4th of the last 7 plain of the last leaf,<a name="Page_278" id="Page_278"></a>
9 plain over the chain stitches = on the leaf: 3 plain, 1 picot,
3 plain, 3 plain on the stitch at the point, 3 plain, 1 picot, 7
plain ******. Repeat 3 times from ***** to ******
and add 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain. Continue along the 2nd row:
4 plain, 10 chain and on these 11 plain = 4 plain, 8 chain,
returning, miss the 8th, 7 plain on the others = on the 2nd
side of the chain: 4 plain, 3 chain, join them to the 6th of
the last 11 plain = on the 3 chain: 3 plain = on the leaf: 3
plain, 3 plain on the stitch at the point of the leaf, 7 plain.</p>
<p>4th row—1 plain on the 1st leaf of the 3rd row: * 7 chain,
1 plain on the 2nd leaf = 7 chain, 1 triple treble on the 5th of
the 9 plain between 2 leaves = 7 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd leaf
= 7 chain, 1 triple treble, 7 chain, 1 plain on the 4th leaf = 7
chain, 1 plain on the 5th leaf; 5 chain, 1 plain on the 1st leaf
of the corner scallop. Repeat from *, with this difference, that,
in the corner scallop you must have 4 triple trebles.</p>
<p>5th row—on the first 7 chain of the 4th row: 7 plain, *
on the next chain stitches: 12 plain = turn the work, and
crochet to and fro, decreasing by 1 stitch in each row, until you
have only 2 stitches left = along the leaf: 10 plain and repeat
3 times from * = 7 plain on the next 7 chain, 6 plain on the
5 chain, 7 plain on the 7 chain.</p>
<p>The corner scallop has 7 points = the 12 first stitches
must be divided as follows: * 1st point: 12 plain in the first
interval = 2nd point: 10 plain in the 2nd interval and 2 plain
in the 3rd interval = 3rd point: 7 plain in the 3rd interval and
5 plain in the 4th **. Repeat once from ** to *.</p>
<p>6th row—* 1 plain in the 1st leaf, 5 chain, 1 crossed quadruple
treble, the branches of which are joined by 5 chain;
repeat twice from * = 1 plain, 4 chain, 1 plain in the 1st leaf
of the next scallop = 5 chain, 1 crossed quadruple treble, the
branches of which are joined by 5 chain and joined to the
6th stitch of the 2 next points = 5 chain and so on.</p>
<p>7th row—6 plain on the first 5 chain of the 6th row, 6
plain on the next chain = 8 chain; carry the chain back to the
right, and join it on, between the 6th and 7th plain = 4 plain
on the 8 chain, then 8 chain, take it back, and join to the 1st
plain = 12 plain on the 8 chain = continue on the small scallop:<a name="Page_279" id="Page_279"></a>
3 plain, 1 picot, 8 plain = on the other 5 chain: 6 plain =
8 chain, join them again to the 4th of the 8 plain on the
scallop = on the last 8 chain: 3 plain, 1 picot, 8 plain = on
the 2 next bars of 5 chain: 12 plain = 8 chain, join them to
the 7th of the last 12 plain = on the 8 chain: 5 plain = 8
chain, join them to the 1st of the last 12 plain = on the 8
chain: 5 plain, 3 chain, join them to the 4th plain of the 3rd
finished scallop = over the 3 chain: 2 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain
= on the next scallop: 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain = in the half
finished scallop: 6 plain = 8 chain, take it back and join it
to the 1st of the last 6 plain = on the 8 chain: 5 plain, 1
picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain to finish the scallop below: 5
plain = on the 6th row: 6 plain, 8 chain, join them to the
first of the last 5 plain of the last scallop = on the 8 chain:
3 plain, 1 picot, 8 plain.</p>
<p>The little scallops must be carried on round the corner point,
as they were on the 3rd, 4th and 5th trebles of the other points.</p>
<p><b>Lace with corner, formed by decreasing on the inside</b>
(fig. <a href="#fig_473">473</a>).—For the stars—8 chain, close the ring; 3 chain, 15
trebles in the ring; close = 3 chain, miss 1 treble of the last
row, 1 treble, 5 chain, 1 treble on the upper part of the last
treble = alternate 7 times: 1 chain, 1 crossed treble divided by
2 chain, lastly 1 chain, close the ring, fasten off.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<a href="images/full_486.jpg"><img src="images/486.jpg" width="600" height="600" alt="FIG. 473. LACE WITH CORNERS FORMED BY DECREASING ON THE INSIDE." title="" /></a>
<a name="fig_473" id="fig_473"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 473. Lace with corners formed by decreasing on the inside.
<br />
Materials</span>: Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 30 to 70, Fil à pointer D.M.C
No. 20 or 30, Coton pour crochet D.M.C Nos. 10 to 18, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C
Nos. 4 to 60.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a><br />
<span class="smcap">Colours</span>: White, Écru naturel or
any other colour of the 450 shades of the D.M.C colour card.</span>
</div>
<p>Make 11 stars, and join them together as follows, counting
the third from the left, in the engraving, as the first.—When
you have joined the 1st star to the 2nd by the 6th and 7th cross
trebles, join the next stars so that when the 3rd is fastened
on, there should be 2 crossed trebles on the inside and outside
of the 2nd star. The 3rd star will have: 1 crossed treble on the
outside, 3 on the inside = the 4th: 2 crossed trebles inside,
2 outside = the 5th, the 6th, and the 7th: 1 inside, 3 outside
= the 8th: 2 on the inside and outside = the 9th: 3 inside, 1 outside
= the 10th: 2 outside, 2 inside = the 11th: 3 outside, 1
inside. For the next scallops, repeat from the 2nd to the 5th star.</p>
<p>2nd row—* over the 2 chain stitches of the 3rd crossed
treble of the 11th star: 1 treble, 3 chain = over the 1st chain
stitch between the 3rd and 4th crossed trebles: 1 treble, 3 chain
= over the next 2 chain stitches: 1 double treble, 3 chain =<a name="Page_280" id="Page_280"></a>
3 overs, in the next space: 1 double treble and 1 double
treble in the 1st space of the 10th star; connect the two trebles
together, 3 chain, 1 double
treble, 3 chain, 1 treble, 3
chain, 1 treble, 3 chain, 1
connected treble as before, 3 chain ** 1 plain over the 2
chain stitches of the last crossed treble of the 9th star. Repeat
from ** to *, therefore backwards.</p>
<p>Each of the next trebles comes, either over 2 chain stitches
of the crossed treble, or over the chain stitch between the
crossed trebles *** 3 chain, 1 treble, 3 chain, 1 double treble,
3 chain, 1 triple connected treble, 3 chain, 1 double treble, 3
chain, 1 treble, 3 chain **** 1 single; repeat, in the reverse
order, therefore, from **** to ***.</p>
<p><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281"></a></p>
<p>When the outside row is finished, make a similar row on
the inside of the stars; at the corner 3 trebles are to be made
3 times over each of the middle stars.</p>
<p>3rd row—1 treble above and below, on each stitch of the
second row.</p>
<p>4th row—consists entirely of crossed trebles = * miss on
the upper edge: 3 times 1 treble, and 5 times 2 trebles = on the
next trebles of the preceding row: 1 double treble, miss 2
stitches, 1 double treble, miss 2 stitches, 1 double treble =
draw up the last loops of the 3 trebles together = repeat the
same thing backwards = here follow: 8 crossed trebles separated
each by 1 treble of the preceding row **; the 8th and the 9th
crossed trebles are together in the corner treble of the preceding
row. Repeat from ** to * = here follows 1 row with 1
treble on every stitch below.</p>
<p>The row on the side of the footing is worked as above described
= at the corner, and after having made the 3rd connected
treble, * miss 5 times 2 stitches, 6 times 1 stitch, 3 times 2
stitches, 3 times 3 stitches, ** 3 triple trebles connected together
above, miss 3 stitches underneath; repeat from ** to *,
followed on both sides by a row of trebles.</p>
<p>In the corner of the inside row of trebles connect the loops
of 5 pairs of trebles, in the centre connect the loops of 3 trebles,
and again the loops of 5 pairs of trebles.</p>
<p>For the 1st star of the footing: 8 chain, close the ring;
3 chain in the ring, 15 trebles, close = 3 chain, miss 1 treble,
1 treble, * 3 chain, 1 treble on the stitch of the 1st treble,
miss 1, 1 treble in the 2nd stitch, draw the loops of the 2
trebles together **. Repeat 6 times from * to **; add 3
chain and close = 5 chain, join them to the 15th treble of
the last row; 5 chain, 1 plain on the first chain stitches between
2 trebles; 4 chain, join them to the 7th treble; 4 chain,
1 plain on the next chain stitches, 3 chain, join to the treble
over the 3 connected triple trebles, 3 chain, 1 plain on the
next chain stitches, 4 chain, join them to the 8th treble, 5
chain, 1 plain on the 5th treble, cut off the thread.</p>
<p>The corner star is made like the one just described, and is
joined on, as follows: 3 chain, join them to the 17th treble on
<a name="Page_282" id="Page_282"></a>the left of the last row (counting from the triple treble) = 3
chain, 1 plain on the first chain stitches between 2 trebles = 3
chain, miss 4 trebles, join them to the 5th = 3 chain, 1 plain on
the 2nd set of chain stitches between = 6 chain, miss 5 trebles,
join them to the 6th = 3 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd of the 6
last chain = 3 chain, join them to the corner stitch, 3 chain, 1
plain on the last 3 chain = towards the right: 3 chain, join to
the 5th treble = 3 chain, 1 plain on the preceding, 3 chain, 1
plain on the 3rd set of stitches between, 3 chain, miss 4 trebles,
join to the 5th treble = 3 chain, 1 plain on the 4th set of
stitches between, 3 chain, miss 4 stitches and join = 3 chain,
1 plain on the 5th double treble, fasten off.</p>
<p>On the 3 first trebles of the preceding row of the inside
edge, counting from the outermost stitches which are to be seen
to the right in the illustration, 1 plain, 3 chain, miss 4 trebles,
1 treble = 3 chain, miss 3 trebles, 1 double treble, 3 chain,
3 overs, pass the needle over the double treble, crochet off one
over = miss 3 stitches, 1 double treble, crochet off the 2 remaining
loops = 3 chain, 4 overs, crochet off 2 loops, 1 double
treble over the chain treble of the star, crochet off the remaining
loops = 3 chain, 3 overs over the treble made on the 5 chain,
crochet off 2 loops = 1 treble on the 5th set of stitches between,
crochet off the remaining loops = 3 chain, 1 treble on the 6th
set of stitches between = 3 chain, 1 treble on the 7th set of
stitches between = 3 chain, 3 overs, 1 treble on the 8th set
of stitches between; crochet off 1 over, 1 double treble on the
5 first chain stitches of the star, crochet off the remaining
loops = 3 chain, 3 overs, 1 treble over the 2nd double treble,
1 double treble, miss 2 trebles of the preceding row, complete
the treble = 3 chain, 3 overs, crochet off 1 over, joining it to
the last double treble; crochet off the overs = 1 treble on
the 5th treble of the preceding row, crochet off the loops
= 3 chain, 1 treble on the 4th treble = 3 chain, miss 4
stitches = on each of the 6 following trebles: 1 plain =
3 chain, miss 3 trebles, 1 treble, 3 chain, miss 3 trebles,
1 double treble; 3 chain, 3 overs, over the double treble
crochet off 1 loop, 1 double treble on the 4th treble after
the plain stitches, crochet off the last overs = 3 chain, 3
<a name="Page_283" id="Page_283"></a>overs, over the last double treble crochet off 1 loop, 1
double treble on the 5th intervening space of the corner star,
crochet off the loops = 3 chain, 1 plain on the 7th double
treble of the star = 3 chain, 1 double treble on the 8th intervening
space = 3 chain, 3 overs, over the last double treble
crochet off 2 loops, 1 double treble on the 3rd treble of the
preceding row, complete the treble = 3 chain, 3 overs, over
the double treble crochet off 2 loops, 1 treble on the 4th
treble, complete the treble = 3 chain, 1 treble on the 4th
treble, 3 chain, miss 3, 3 plain.</p>
<p>One row of trebles to finish with; draw the 5 corner trebles
together and add: 1 row of crossed trebles and 1 row of plain
trebles, each time drawing the 5
corner loops together into one.</p>
<p>1st row of the outside border—1
plain on every one of
the 7 next trebles of the row beneath,
5 chain; turn back, join
them to the 7th plain and so on.</p>
<p>2nd row—1 plain on the
4th of the 7 plain, 9 trebles on
the 5 chain.</p>
<p>3rd row—1 plain on each
of the first 2 trebles of the 2nd
row, 1 picot, 2 plain, 1 picot,
miss 1 stitch, 2 plain, 1 picot,
2 plain and so on.</p>
<p><b><a name="Square_with_coloured_tufts" id="Square_with_coloured_tufts"></a>Square with coloured tufts</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_474">474</a>).—The following
are different counterpane
patterns which should be worked
in coarse cotton; our engraving
represents a single square,
worked in two colours, in raised crochet. By joining a number
of such squares together, 4 or 6 colours can be introduced
into one covering with very good effect.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/487.jpg" width="300" height="301" alt="FIG. 474. SQUARE WITH COLOURED TUFTS." title="" />
<a name="fig_474" id="fig_474"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 474. Square with coloured tufts.
<br />
Materials</span>: Coton pour crochet D.M.C Nos. 6 to 10, or Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 12.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a><br />
<span class="smcap">Colours</span>. White and Rouge-Turc 321, or
écru and Bleu-Indigo 321, Rouge-Géranium
353 and Brun-Caroubier 356, Bleu
d'Azur 3325 and Brun-Rouille 3312, Vert-Bouteille
494 and Bleu-Prunelle 489.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>
</span>
</div>
<p><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284"></a></p>
<p>Cast on 13 chain and close the ring.</p>
<p>1st row—1 plain on the 1st of the 13 chain, 5 chain,
1 plain on the 4th chain, 5 chain, 1 plain on the 7th chain, 5
chain, 1 plain on the 10th chain, 5 chain, 1 plain on the 13th
chain.</p>
<p>2nd row—1 plain on the 1st plain of the 1st row * 1 plain
on the 1st of the 5 chain; 5 chain, 1 plain on the 5th chain.
Repeat 3 times from *.</p>
<p>3rd row—5 plain on the 5 chain, 5 chain, 5 plain and so on.</p>
<p>4th and 5th rows—continue to increase, as in the 3rd row.</p>
<p>6th row—after the 3rd
plain, 1 tuft in the contrasting
colour (see fig. <a href="#fig_431">431</a>).</p>
<p>The contrasting colour is
to be introduced into the work
at the first tuft, and cut off
when the last is finished.</p>
<p>The ends of the coloured
threads must be worked in under
the stitches of the next row.
The square may be of any
size; it is bordered by small
picot scallops by means of
which the different squares are
joined together.</p>
<p><b>Stripes for counterpanes</b>
(fig. <a href="#fig_475">475</a>).—We recommend
the use of Soutache D.M.C or
Lacets superfins D.M.C (braids)
for the coloured stitches, in the
place of cotton. The dark stitches
standing, so to speak, on
another ground of stitches the
pattern will look brighter, if it be worked in a flat material
that will spread out more than cotton does.</p>
<p><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285"></a></p>
<p>The stripe, worked in its entire length and always on the
right side, must be begun by a chain of stitches of the length
the stripe is to be.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
<img src="images/488.jpg" width="300" height="345" alt="FIG. 475. STRIPES FOR COUNTERPANES." title="" />
<a name="fig_475" id="fig_475"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 475. Stripes for counterpanes.
<br />
Materials</span>: Coton pour crochet D.M.C
Nos. 6 to 8, or Coton à tricoter D.M.C
Nos. 6 to 12 and Lacets surfins D.M.C
No. 4, or Soutache D.M.C No. 2½.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a><br />
<span class="smcap">Colours</span>: Gris-Lin 716 and Rouge-Bordeaux
497, Gris-Tilleul 393 and Bleu-Faience
484 or Brun-Caroubier 356 and
Jaune-Rouille 308 etc.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>1st row—1 plain stitch on each chain stitch.</p>
<p>2nd row—1 plain stitch with white or unbleached cotton,
on each second stitch of the preceding row; 1 long plain stitch
with the coloured cotton or the braid, in each second loop of
the chain stitch.</p>
<p>When red and white cotton are used, only one thread must
be drawn through the 1st loop, and the other through the two
last loops.</p>
<p>3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th, 11th rows—plain stitches of the colour
of the grounding = 4th row—between every 5 coloured
stitches 3 white = 6th row—between every 4 red, 5 white
= 8th row—between every 3 red, 7 white = 10th row—between
every 2 red, 9 white = 12th row—between the
single red stitches, 11 white plain.</p>
<p>In the second half of the pattern the red stitches must increase
in the same proportion as that in which they decreased
before.</p>
<p><b>Pattern of a counterpane in Tunisian crochet</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_476">476</a>).
This pattern, on a reduced scale, of a counterpane in Tunisian
crochet, though it is worked here in several colours, can be
done all in one. The numbers of the stitches, as they are here
given, refer of course to the pattern represented in our figure;
if worked on a larger scale, the number of stitches would have
to be increased every way in the proper proportion.</p>
<p>For the inner square, which is worked in a light material,
make 20 chain stitches, on which you make 17 rows of plaited
Tunisian crochet, fig. <a href="#fig_445">445</a>, then fasten off.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/489.jpg" width="600" height="645" alt="FIG. 476. PATTERN OF A COUNTERPANE IN TUNISIAN CROCHET." title="" />
<a name="fig_476" id="fig_476"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 476. Pattern of a counterpane in tunisian crochet.
<br />
Materials</span>: Coton pour crochet D.M.C Nos. 6 to 8, or Coton à tricoter D.M.C
Nos. 6 to 12.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a><br />
<span class="smcap">Colours</span>: Gris-Amadou 385 and Rouge-Cardinal 346, Vert-Bouteille 492 and
Violet-Mauve 316, or Bleu-Gentiane 479 and Gris-Écru 706.</span>
</div>
<p>For the first coloured border, which immediately surrounds
the centre square, take a coloured thread and make 2 chain
stitches and upon these the common Tunisian stitch, fig. <a href="#fig_444">444</a>.
Increase to the right in every row by one stitch, to the number
of 6 = then put the needle into the first stitch on one side of
the square, turn the thread round and draw it through. Here
you must be careful to observe, in the first instance, that the
second part which is now to be joined to the square, should
<a name="Page_286" id="Page_286"></a>always remain on the left side of the square and secondly, that
the thread with which you join the two parts together, should
lie to the left and be drawn through, from the wrong side to
the right. Having now got 7 Tunisian stitches on the needle,
<a name="Page_287" id="Page_287"></a>make 18 double rows, and join the last stitch of each row to
a stitch of the square.</p>
<p>When these rows are finished, you proceed to decrease on
the right till you have only 2 stitches left; and then again to
increase as at the beginning of the stripe. At each increase,
after each double row you must pass the thread through the
corresponding stitch opposite of the same row. When you have
again got 7 stitches on the needle, join them as before to the
square. Work round the 4 sides of the square in this manner
and when you come to the last decrease, join the stitches to
those of the first increase, and fasten off. The next stripes
are to be worked in the same way; they may be made either
wider or narrower, plain, or ornamented with a cross stitch
pattern which you work upon them.</p>
<p><b>Pattern of counterpane worked in stripes</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_477">477</a>).—This
is intended for a child's coverlet and is worked in pale
<a name="Page_288" id="Page_288"></a>blue, Bleu-Indigo 334, and white; the stripes and the lace
border, in white, the setting, partly in white, partly in blue.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/490.jpg" width="600" height="430" alt="FIG. 477. PATTERN OF COUNTERPANE WORKED IN STRIPES." title="" />
<a name="fig_477" id="fig_477"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 477. Pattern of counterpane worked in stripes.
<br />
Materials</span>: Coton pour crochet D.M.C Nos. 6 to 12, Coton à tricoter D.M.C
Nos. 6 to 14, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 15.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>For the first stripe, make a foundation chain of 26 stitches;
then counting back, draw the needle through the 6th and 7th
chain stitches, drawing up all the three loops together = 2
chain, then put the needle again through 2 chain stitches, draw
up the 3 loops together = 2 chain and so on.</p>
<p>Coming back, make the loop of the first stitch and that of
the second on the chain stitches of the preceding row = begin
every row with 3 chain, which form picots along the edge of
the stripe; when the stripes are finished, take a blue thread
and make 1 plain stitch on each picot and 3 chain.</p>
<p>This blue row is followed by a white one, worked in cluster
stitch, fig. <a href="#fig_426">426</a>, with 2 chain stitches between every 2 clusters.</p>
<p>Then follows another blue row of one plain stitch on each
chain stitch of the previous row. The second blue row consists
entirely of plain stitches worked along the long sides of the
stripes, which are joined together afterwards, but not along the
short sides until the counterpane is finished; then the stitches
should border all the 4 sides. The second stripe, which should
be of the same width as the first, is worked in Tunisian crochet;
for the edge make one row of plain stitches in blue, one of
cluster stitches in white, and then again a row of plain in blue.</p>
<p>Join the stripes together on the wrong side with plain
stitches, taking up one loop on the right and one on the left,
alternately.</p>
<p>When you have joined the stripes, make the outer border,
which consists of 7 straight rows and a scalloped lace edging.</p>
<p>1st row—in blue: 3 chain and 1 plain on each picot, 1
plain, and so on, down the long sides of the stripes = along
the short sides, the side of the chain stitches or that of the
previous row: 1 plain, 3 chain, miss 2, 1 plain.</p>
<p>2nd row—in white or unbleached: 1 cluster stitch, fig. <a href="#fig_426">426</a>, on each picot formed by the 3 chain stitches of the 1st
row; on the corner picots, you must make 3 cluster stitches.</p>
<p>3rd, 4th, 5th rows—in blue: similar to the first. Increase
at the corners by making: 1 plain, 3 chain, 1 plain on the
same stitch.</p><p><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289"></a></p>
<p>6th row—in white or unbleached: similar to the 2nd row.</p>
<p>7th row—in blue: 1 treble on each of the stitches of the
previous row.</p>
<p>Lace edging.—The scallops extend over 22 stitches of the
previous row and on that account it is better to make the
corners first, to count the stitches both ways so as to distribute
the stitches that are left over, between the scallops.</p>
<p>Corner scallop.—Fasten on the thread to the left of the
second of the stitches that were added to make the turn, make
6 chain, 1 single on the 4th treble to the right = 1 single on the
next treble = turn the work = * 2 chain, 1 treble on the 6th
chain, repeat 7 times from *, in all therefore 8 trebles = after
the 8th treble: 2 chain, miss 1 treble, 1 single on the 2 next
trebles = turn the work = 2 chain, 1 cluster stitch between
each treble, in all 9 cluster stitches, then 2 chain, miss 2
trebles, 1 single stitch on the next 2 trebles = turn the work
= 2 chain, 1 cluster stitch over the 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th pairs
of chain stitches in the preceding row, and 2 cluster stitches
and 2 chain over the 5th, 6th and 7th chain stitches; over the
other chain stitches again: 1 cluster stitch; then 2 chain, miss
2 trebles, join to the 3rd treble = fasten off.</p>
<p>For the scallops on the right side, divide the stitches between
the corner scallops into equal portions. Supposing that
they are divisible by 22, count 9 stitches to the right, fasten on
the thread at the 9th; * 7 chain, miss 2 trebles of the row beneath,
1 plain on the 3rd, 1 single stitch on the next = turn the
work = 2 chain, 1 treble on the 7 chain, repeat 5 times from *
and finish with 2 chain, 1 single on the 2nd lower treble, 1
single on the next treble = turn the work = 2 chain and 1
cluster stitch between each treble of the preceding row, 2
cluster stitches between the 3rd and 2nd trebles = after the 8th
stitch: 2 chain, miss 1 treble, 1 single on each of the 2 next
stitches = repeat 3 times over 2 chain stitches of the previous
row: 2 chain, 1 cluster stitch = on the 4th, 5th and 6th
chain stitches: 2 cluster and 2 chain; on the 3 last chain the
same stitches as on the 3 first = then 1 single over each of the
next 18 and repeat from *.</p>
<p>The final row consists of open picots, formed of 5 chain
<a name="Page_290" id="Page_290"></a>stitches and 1 plain, between each cluster stitch; after the last
of these stitches and in the indent of the scallops on the
straight line, only 2 chain stitches and 1 plain on the 3rd stitch.</p>
<p><b>Pattern in squares for counterpanes</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_478">478</a>).—This
pattern may be worked in the same stitch as the previous one,
either in Tunisian crochet or in any other of the stitches
already described.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<img src="images/491.jpg" width="600" height="583" alt="FIG. 478. PATTERN IN SQUARES FOR COUNTERPANES." title="" />
<a name="fig_478" id="fig_478"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 478. Pattern in squares for counterpanes.
<br />
Materials</span>: Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 12, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C
Nos. 1 to 5, or Coton pour crochet D.M.C Nos. 6 to 12.
<br />
<span class="smcap">Colours</span>: Gris-Coutil 323 and Brun-Caroubier 303 or Bleu-cendré 448 and
Rouge-Cornouille 449, Vert-Mousse 470 and Bleu d'Azur 3325.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>Make a foundation chain of 18 stitches on which you work<a name="Page_291" id="Page_291"></a>
10 rows to and fro in the dark colour. The 11th and following
rows up to the 21st are worked in the light colour, then take
up the dark colour again. Each stripe should be 3 squares long.</p>
<p>The 2nd stripe is begun in the light colour, and the stitches,
made at the beginning of each row, are joined to those of the
first stripe, as the stitches of the 3rd are to those of the 2nd
and so on.</p>
<p>When you have made sufficient big squares, each consisting
of 9 small ones, border them with seven rows of plain stitches,
worked to and fro.</p>
<p>The 4 squares that form the corners are only to be bordered
in this manner on two sides; the squares along the straight
edges, on 3 sides, and only those that are intended for the
centre of the counterpane, on all 4 sides. The separate parts
are then either sewn or crocheted together on the wrong side.
The dark squares are ornamented with small stars worked
in the light colour, the light ones with scallops in the dark
colour.</p>
<p>For the small stars—4 chain, close the ring; 2 plain on
each stitch of the chain; 8 plain in all = after the 8th stitch:
8 chain, 1 plain on the 1st plain of the 8 plain stitches. Repeat
the 8 chain 7 times and fasten off, then sew the star on in the
centre of the dark square, taking care to spread out the little
points formed of chain stitches at regular distances from each
other. The scallops are worked from left to right; fasten the
thread on at the point where 4 squares touch, then make a
chain of 18 stitches and secure it at the opposite point. On the
chain stitches: 6 plain, 1 picot, 7 plain, 1 picot, 7 plain, 1 picot,
6 plain = fasten off.</p>
<p>Repeat the same scallop over the second half of the square;
when you come to the 2nd picot of the first scallop join the
two picots. When both scallops are completed, fasten them
on to the foundation by a few stitches on the wrong side.</p>
<p>The outside border of the counterpane is made separately,
and is worked inwards from without and from left to right.</p>
<p>1st row—begin with the dark colour and make * 10 chain
stitches, drop the loop, put the needle into the 1st of the 10
chain, take up the loop and draw it through the stitch; 2 chain
<a name="Page_292" id="Page_292"></a>and on the 10 stitches: 6 trebles quite close together. Repeat
from * and go on repeating the sequence until the lace is long
enough to trim the counterpane handsomely.</p>
<p>2nd row—in the light colour and similar to the 1st = only
that in joining the chain stitches together, you make the single
stitch on the chain stitches of the 1st row.</p>
<p>3rd row—in the dark colour and similar to the 2nd.</p>
<p>4th, 5th and 6th rows—in the light colour and from right
to left: 7 chain, 2 plain on each loop of chain stitches of the
previous row.</p>
<p>7th row—in the light colour and from left to right: * 2 plain
on the treble of the lace, 11 chain, 2 plain on the next loop of
chain stitches = these 2 stitches are made on the wrong side of the
work = drop the loop, turn the work to the right, 3 plain on
the last 3 chain, 8 chain **, and repeat always from * to **.</p>
<p>One row of plain made on each chain stitch and a 2nd row
of trebles on the plain stitches completes the lace edging,
which is afterwards sewn on to the counterpane.</p>
<p><b>Counterpane with fringed border</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_479">479</a>).—This
pattern requires three colours; we suggest the following as
making a very effective combination: Rouge-Turc 321, Bleu-Indigo 311
and white.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<a href="images/full_492.jpg"><img src="images/492.jpg" width="600" height="463" alt="FIG. 479. COUNTERPANE WITH FRINGED BORDER." title="" /></a>
<a name="fig_479" id="fig_479"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 479. Counterpane with fringed border.<br />
Materials</span>: Coton pour crochet D.M.C Nos. 6 to 10, or Coton à tricoter D.M.C
Nos. 6 to 14.<br />
<span class="smcap">Colours</span>: White, Gris-Tilleul 331 and Rouge-Cornouille 449.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>The stripes, one red, the other blue, may be worked in any
stitch. They are edged with 8 plain stitches of 3 different lengths
worked in red. * The first stitch passes only under the loops
of the stitches; the 2nd over 2 stitches; the 3rd over 1, the 4th
inwards, over 3. Repeat from *.</p>
<p>These stitches must be worked parallel to each other along
the two edges that are to be joined together.</p>
<p>The stripes are fastened together on the wrong side by
single or plain stitches.</p>
<p>The outside edge consists of 15 rows: 1st row—in red:
1 row of plain stitches on the right side of the work.</p>
<p>2nd row—in red, and on the wrong side of the work:
plain stitches.</p>
<p>3rd and 4th rows—in red, and on the right side of the
work: plain stitches.</p><p><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293"></a></p>
<p>5th row—in dark blue and on the right side: 1 treble, 1
chain, miss 1 plain of the row beneath, 1 treble and so on.</p>
<p>6th row—in white, and similar to the 5th.</p>
<p>7th row—in blue, and similar to the 5th.</p>
<p>8th row—in red: 1 plain on each stitch of the preceding row.</p>
<p>9th row—in red and on the wrong side: 1 plain on each
stitch of the preceding row.</p>
<p>10th and 11th rows—in red: and both on the right side,
2 rows of plain stitches.</p>
<p>12th row—in white: 5 chain, miss 3, 1 plain on the 4th
stitch.</p>
<p>13th row—in dark blue and similar to the 12th.</p>
<p>14th row—in white: * 1 plain on the 5th stitch of the blue
<a name="Page_294" id="Page_294"></a>row; 10 chain, drop the loop, lay the chain stitches from left
to right, put the needle into the 3rd chain stitch, counting
from the beginning, take up the loop and draw it through the
3rd chain stitch, 2 chain and repeat from *.</p>
<p>15th row—in white: 1 plain on the picot formed by the
chain stitches; 5 chain, 1 plain.</p>
<p>Into this last row you draw clusters of lengths of red cotton
to form the fringe, and knot them together with blue, or if you
prefer it, you may finish off the coverlet with a hairpin fringe.</p>
<p><b>Counterpane composed of squares and olive shaped
figures</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_480">480</a>).—There are many who shrink from undertaking
a large piece of work because it becomes inconvenient
to handle and carry about. The counterpane here represented
has the advantage of being made up of a number of quite little
pieces, which are worked separately and joined together afterwards.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<a href="images/full_493.jpg"><img src="images/493.jpg" width="600" height="560" alt="FIG. 480. COUNTERPANE COMPOSED OF SQUARES AND OLIVE SHAPED FIGURES." title="" /></a>
<a name="fig_480" id="fig_480"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 480. Counterpane composed of squares and olive shaped figures.<br />
Materials</span>: Coton pour crochet D.M.C Nos. 6 to 10, or Coton à tricoter D.M.C
Nos. 6 to 10.<br />
<span class="smcap">Colours</span>: White and Rouge-Turc 321, or Écru and Rouge-Cerise 3318,
Gris-Coutil 323 and Bleu-Gentiane 478.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>Two colours, which can be clearly distinguished from each
other in the engraving, should be chosen from among the
various combinations suggested; one of them should be very
light, say, cream or white for the olive shaped figures and
squares, and the other of some soft shade only darker, for the
connecting rows and the knotted fringe, described in the chapter
on <a href="./chapter_11.html">Macramé</a>.</p>
<p>The olive shaped figures begin with 9 chain stitches, on
which you make 8 plain stitches and on the 9th: 3 plain for
the corner.</p>
<p>On the second side of the chain: 8 plain and 3 besides
on the corner stitch, and so on for 3 rows; in the last row
there should be 28 stitches.</p>
<p>These 3 rows are to be considered as one only.</p>
<p>2nd row—3 chain, 1 treble on the plain stitch that follows
* 1 chain, 1 treble and repeat 11 times from *; 1 chain, 3
trebles with 1 chain between them on the corner stitch, **
1 chain, 1 treble, repeat 12 times from **.</p>
<p>On the last stitch at the corner, again 3 trebles with 1
chain; close the round with 1 single stitch.</p>
<p>3rd row—1 chain, 1 single on the chain stitch that follows
the 1st treble of the last row; 3 chain, 1 double treble between
<a name="Page_295" id="Page_295"></a>the lower trebles, 1 chain and so on, until you have 35 trebles,
counting the two sets of 3 trebles at the corner.</p>
<p>4th row—here you can change the colour: 1 plain on each
of the stitches of the last row; 3 plain at the corners.</p>
<p>5th row—similar to the 4th.</p>
<p>6th row—2 plain, 1 cluster of 2 double trebles on the same
stitch of the 4th row as the 5th stitch of the last row is on;
miss 1 plain.</p>
<p><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296"></a></p>
<p>Continue in this manner along the whole row, taking care
that the 9th and 22nd cluster come just at the corner.</p>
<p>7th and 8th rows—these two last rows should be worked
in the same colour as the inside of the figure.</p>
<p>Be careful always to make the increase at the point; a 9th
row in the dark colour may further be added, to connect the
figures, by passing the thread from the wrong side to the right,
between the 13 last stitches of two of the points of the figures.
The space between these olive shaped figures is filled by a
pointed square of chain stitches.</p>
<p>In the 1st and following rows you miss 5 stitches at the
point where the figures meet, and continue to decrease in this
manner until the space is filled up. The fringe is made in the
dark colour, either directly on to the plain crochet, or after a
few rows of open-work.</p>
<p><b>Squares for chair-backs</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_481">481</a>).—This is a design for
cut-work, out of an old collection by Sibmacher, which we
have adapted to crochet. It will be found most effective,
worked in any of the given materials; we have worked it with
admirable result, both in Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 15 and
Fil à dentelle D.M.C No. 150.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<a href="images/full_494.jpg"><img src="images/494.jpg" width="600" height="596" alt="FIG. 481. SQUARES FOR CHAIR-BACKS." title="" /></a>
<a name="fig_481" id="fig_481"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 481. Squares for chair-backs.<br />
Materials</span>: Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 30 to 100, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C
Nos. 20 to 50, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 70 in white or écru.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>1st row—4 chain, close the ring.</p>
<p>2nd row—1 chain, 2 plain on each chain, 8 in all; draw
the loop of the last stitch through the 1st chain.</p>
<p>3rd row—6 chain, 1 treble *, 3 chain, 1 treble, repeat 6 times
from *. In all, with the 3 chain, 8 trebles.</p>
<p>4th row—4 plain, over each treble of 3 chain.</p>
<p>5th row—6 chain, 1 plain on the 2nd of the plain stitches
beneath, * 3 chain, 1 treble, over the treble beneath, 3 chain,
1 plain on the 2nd stitch of the row beneath. Repeat 6 times
from *, then add 3 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd of the 6 chain.</p>
<p>6th row—7 chain, 1 plain over the treble of the last row;
repeat the same series 7 times.</p>
<p>7th row—3 chain, 1 treble over the treble beneath; 1 treble
on each chain stitch, 2 trebles on each plain stitch of the row
beneath; in all, 72 trebles, including the 3 chain.</p>
<p>8th row—* 8 chain, 1 plain between the 2 trebles that
were added, therefore between the 8th and the 9th = turn the
<a name="Page_297" id="Page_297"></a>work = make 12 plain on the wrong side = turn the work back
to the right side = take up 1 loop of each of the 12 stitches
for the Tunisian stitch that is made on 10 rows, and decreasing
by one stitch in each row, alternately on the right and left = draw
up the 3 last loops together and make, descending on the
right side: 1 single stitch on each row of the pyramid you
have just made, finish with 1 plain on the stitch that follows
the 8 chain. Repeat 7 times from *.</p>
<p>9th row—all along the pyramid: 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain,
1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain, 2 plain at the point. Repeat
<a name="Page_298" id="Page_298"></a>the same number of stitches on the 2nd side, and down the
sides of all the pyramids = after the 9th row, fasten off.</p>
<p>10th row—fasten on the thread at a stitch at the point of
a pyramid, * 7 chain, 5 overs, join the loop to the 2nd picot
on the side of the pyramid where you are working, draw the
needle back through 2 overs, make 2 overs more, and put the
needle into the middle picot opposite and draw the needle twice
through 2 loops, thirdly through 3 and each time after that,
through 2 loops = 6 chain, 1 double treble, join to the 3rd
over, 7 chain, 1 plain = on the next pyramid 7 chain, 1 septuple
treble, join it to the next middle picot = draw the needle
thrice through 2 loops, 1 triple treble to join to the middle picot
opposite, draw the needle back through the loops, and at the
4th over, through 3 loops, and each time after that, through 2
loops, 7 chain, 1 quadruple treble, join it to the 4th over, 7
chain, 1 triple treble, 7 chain, 1 plain on the next pyramid.
Repeat 3 times from *.</p>
<p>11th row—1 chain, 1 plain on each of the stitches of the
previous row and 2 plain on those forming the corner; fasten
off.</p>
<p>12th row—1 single on the first plain, 5 chain, 1 treble on
the 3rd plain, 2 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd plain and so on to
the corner and until you have 14 trebles = on the corner
stitch: 2 chain and 1 treble more; then proceed as you did on
the first side. There should be 18 trebles and 19 times 2 chain
between the corner trebles; all four sides should be alike.</p>
<p>13th row—1 plain on each stitch of the last row, not
counting the 3 which are to be made at the corner.</p>
<p>14th row—14 single over the preceding stitches *, 1 chain,
24 plain; miss 4 plain of the last row, not counting the 2
increased stitches which must be left empty = after the 24th
stitch turn the work, miss 2, 21 plain, passing the needle under
the 2 loops of the row beneath = turn the work = 1 chain, 20
plain = turn the work = 19 plain = continue to decrease in
the same proportion, until you have 3 stitches left and fasten
off. In all the intakes miss the last stitch but one, coming
back, and the 1st going, and always begin on the right side
with 1 chain.</p><p><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299"></a></p>
<p>For the second half of these triangular figures which are
worked from right to left, fasten on the thread to the 5th
stitch after the increase and make 24 plain = 7 plain should
remain between the two triangular figures formed of plain
stitches = turn the work = 21 plain, miss the 2 last stitches,
1 plain on the stitch the thread is fastened to = turn the work = miss
1 stitch, 19 plain, 5 overs, put the needle through the
4th of the 7 stitches between, bring it back twice, each time
through 2 loops, make 2 overs more, put the needle through
the last stitch of the 3rd row opposite, bring it back twice
through 2 loops, then once through 3 loops and twice through
2 loops = turn the work = 18 plain and so on, until you
have made 10 transverse trebles = fasten off, then repeat the
same series of rows on the other sides.</p>
<p>15th row—do not cut off the thread on the 4th side but
work backwards: 3 single over the chain, 5 chain * 1 treble
on the stitch whence the 5 chain proceeded, 2 chain, 1 treble
on the last plain of the first half of the close parts of the pattern;
2 chain, 1 treble in the middle of the first part of the
10th transverse treble; 2 chain, 1 treble on the second half of
the preceding treble, 2 chain, 1 treble on the 1st plain of the
second half of the close parts; 2 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd and
last upper stitch of the close part; 2 chain, 1 treble on the
same stitch as the last treble. Then along the edge, 10 trebles,
joined by 2 chain, one of which trebles should always be on a
row of plain stitches = after the 10th treble: 3 chain, 1 plain
on the 5th plain of the 13th row, 3 chain, again 11 trebles
connected by 2 chain = after the 11 trebles: 2 chain ** and
repeat 3 times from * to **.</p>
<p>16th row—on every 2 chain stitches: 3 plain.</p>
<p>17th row—7 chain, 1 plain on the 6th plain of the last
row; repeat 7 times = for the 9th and 10th scallops only: *
5 chain. The plain stitch that follows the 9th scallop should
come exactly over the corner stitch of the 13th row = after
the 10th scallop: 1 plain; then 13 scallops with 7 chain, 1 plain
on the 6th 5 stitch of the row beneath. Repeat twice from * = after
the 4th scallop 2 smaller scallops, and up to the end of
the row, 5 scallops more of 7 chain each.</p><p><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300"></a></p>
<p>18th row—make 7 plain over 7 chain, 5 chain, drop the
treble, bring the needle back with the loop through the 3rd
plain = on the 5 chain: 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain = on the 7
remaining stitches: 2 plain—on the 9th scallop of 5 chain,
only: 5 plain = on the 10th scallop of 5 chain, only: 3 plain
= then 7 chain, bring them back and join them to the 3rd
plain of the 9th scallop and finish the picot.</p>
<p>When these squares are made use of in any number and have
to be joined together, you must join 13 picots and leave the
14th free. The four empty picots in the centre are connected
by a small star.</p>
<p><b><a name="Crochet_star" id="Crochet_star"></a>Crochet star</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_482">482</a>).—This is one of the most graceful
and delicate crochet patterns we know. For the purpose of
reproduction here, we have had it worked in all the different
sizes of D.M.C cotton but it looks best in a fine material;
in Fil à dentelle No. 150, it can bear comparison with the finest
needle-made lace.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
<a href="images/full_495.jpg"><img src="images/495.jpg" width="600" height="603" alt="FIG. 482. CROCHET STAR." title="" /></a>
<a name="fig_482" id="fig_482"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 482. Crochet star.<br />
Materials</span>: Fil d'Alsace D.M.C No. 30, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 25 to 80,
or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 150.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>1st row—6 chain, close the ring.</p>
<p>2nd row—9 chain, 1 double treble, * 4 chain, 1 double
treble; repeat 6 times from * = after the 7th treble: 4 chain,
1 single on the 5th of the 9 chain.</p>
<p>3rd row—1 chain, 4 plain, * 1 picot, 4 plain; repeat 7
times from * = carry the thread to the last stitch through
the 1st plain.</p>
<p>4th row—12 chain, 1 treble on the stitch over the treble
beneath, * 9 chain, 1 treble; repeat 6 times from * = after the
7th treble and the 9 chain: 1 single on the 3rd of the 12 chain.</p>
<p>5th row—3 chain, 1 treble on each stitch of the row
beneath; including the 3 chain, 80 trebles in the whole circumference
= after the last treble: 1 single on the 3 chain.</p>
<p>6th row—11 chain, 1 quadruple treble on the 2nd treble
of the last row; 4 chain, 1 quadruple treble on the 3rd treble
and so on, in all 32 trebles including the 7 chain.</p>
<p>7th row—1 chain, 5 plain on 4 chain.</p>
<p>8th row—3 plain on the 3 first chain, * 16 chain, miss 1,
** 1 single, 1 plain, 1 half treble, 2 trebles, 1 treble 1½ long,
2 double trebles, 1 triple treble, 1 treble 3½ trebles long,
1 quadruple-treble ***, 3 chain, miss 4 plain of the 7th row,<a name="Page_301" id="Page_301"></a>
5 plain, 16 chain, join them, counting upwards from below,
to the 5th treble of the first pyramid = on 7 chain: 3 plain,
1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain; join the last
loop of the last plain and the loop of the 7th chain; 8 chain.
Repeat from ** to *** = on the middle of the last quadruple
treble: 1 double treble towards the bottom, finish the treble,
3 chain, miss 4, 5 plain ****. Repeat 7 times from * to ****.</p>
<p>Coming back to the 1st point make along it: 8 single stitches,
then 7 chain, join them to the 5th treble of the 16th point =
over the chain: 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1
<a name="Page_302" id="Page_302"></a>picot, 3 plain and finish with 9 single to carry the thread to
the top of the point.</p>
<p>9th row—1 chain, 1 plain, * 15 chain, 1 plain at the top of
the point and repeat 15 times from *.</p>
<p>10th row—3 chain; 1 treble on each stitch of the 9th row;
256 trebles in all, including the 3 chain.</p>
<p>11th row—The star is bordered by small and large scallops,
surmounted by points similar to those inside.</p>
<p>You begin by the small scallop and make on the 10th row:
5 single, * 8 chain, bring them back and join them to the 1st
of the 5 single; 1 plain, 8 chain, miss 4 trebles, join them to
the 5th; 14 plain on the 8 chain, 6 plain on the first 8 chain
= turn the work = 5 chain, 1 treble on the plain stitch between
two scallops; 5 chain, 1 plain on the 7th plain of the
1st scallop; 2 plain in the 5th chain, 2 chain, 1 picot, 10 chain,
miss 1, and make on the following ones: 1 single, 1 plain, 1 half
treble, 2 trebles, 1 treble 1½ treble long, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2
plain on the 5 chain; 8 plain on the 8 chain.</p>
<p>To pass to the large scallop make: 16 single, 8 chain, bring
them back, 1 plain on the 5th single, 8 chain, bring them back
again to the 5th = turn the work = on the second set of 8 chain:
6 plain, 1 picot, 9 plain = on the first 8: 6 plain, then 8 chain,
bring them back and join them to the 4th plain behind the
picot of the finished scallop = on the 8 chain: 5 plain, 1
picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain = on the remaining chain below:
3 plain, 1 picot, 6 plain; add 4 single on the trebles and
pass to the outer scallop = 18 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd of the
5 plain of the small upper scallop; 18 chain, 1 plain on the 4th
of the 16 single = turn the work = 25 plain on the last
chain stitches, and 25 on the first; 1 single on the 3rd single
= turn the work = 1 plain on each of the preceding 50 plain
stitches; join the last to the under row with a single stitch =
turn the work = 10 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain,
1 picot, 4 plain, 2 chain, 1 picot, 10 chain, miss 1, 1 single,
1 plain, 1 half treble, 2 trebles, 1 treble 1½ treble long, 1
double treble, 1 treble 2½ trebles long, 1 triple treble, 1 picot,
2 chain and join them to the 6th plain stitch, counting from
the middle.</p><p><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303"></a></p>
<p>Then 4 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot,
10 plain, 11 single on the trebles. Repeat 7 times from *.</p>
<p><b>Star with little squares</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_483">483</a>).—Begin with 4 chain
stitches, close the ring.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
<a href="images/full_496.jpg"><img src="images/496.jpg" width="500" height="498" alt="FIG. 483. STAR WITH LITTLE SQUARES." title="" /></a>
<a name="fig_483" id="fig_483"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 483. Star with little squares.<br />
Materials</span>: The same as for fig. <a href="#fig_482">482</a>.</span>
</div>
<p>1st row—5 chain, * 1 treble, 2 chain. Repeat 6 times from
*, to number altogether 8 trebles including the 5 chain; 1 single
on the 3rd chain.</p>
<p>2nd row—6 chain, * 1 triple treble on the 1st chain stitch,
2 chain. Repeat 23 times from * and join to the 4th chain.</p>
<p>3rd row—6 chain, * 1 double treble on the treble beneath,
3 chain. Repeat from * through the row; join to the 4th chain.</p>
<p>4th row—1 plain on the treble = on the 3 chain: 5 plain,
1 plain on the treble; work 5 times to and fro over these stitches,
put the needle through the 2 threads of the last stitch = after
the 5th row: 10 chain, then 5 plain on the 3 next chain.</p><p><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304"></a></p>
<p>In turning the work and going from the 2nd to the 3rd,
from the 4th to the 5th row, carry the thread behind the chain
stitches, so that they may blend with the plain stitches; make
in all 12 little squares with 11 spaces between; after the 12th,
square: 5 chain, 1 single on the 5th row of the first square.</p>
<p>5th row—on each of the 6 plain of the 1st square: 1 single
= on the 7th: 1 plain = 7 plain on the 5 chain = 1 plain on
the 1st stitch of the 2nd square = 6 rows of plain, 14 chain,
1 plain on the 5th stitch of the next square = then make 6
rows of plain and wind the thread round the chain stitches.</p>
<p>6th row—1 single on every stitch of the last square, 1 plain
on the last stitch above the 7 chain = on the 7 chain: 9 plain,
1 plain on the 1st stitch of the next square below = 9 rows to
and fro.</p>
<p>7th row—after the 12th square: 9 chain, 1 single on the
1st plain, * 14 chain, 1 plain on the last plain = on the 9
chain: ** 1 chain, 1 plain, 1 treble 1½ treble long, 2 double
trebles 2½ trebles long ***, 5 triple trebles ****. Repeat
from *** to **, then proceed from * to ****.</p>
<p>8th row—19 plain over the 14 chain, 1 single on each
treble; stop them at the 12th square and at the 3rd triple treble.</p>
<p>9th row—12 chain, 1 plain on the 10th of the 19 plain;
12 chain, 1 plain on the triple treble, and proceed in the same
way throughout the whole length of the row.</p>
<p>10th row—on the first 12 chain stitches: * 5 plain, 1 picot,
12 plain = on the second 12 chain: 7 plain, 10 chain, bring
them back to the 5th of the 12 plain of the first scallop = on
the 10 chain: 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot,
4 plain, = on the 12 chain: 5 plain, 1 picot, 7 plain. Repeat
12 times from *.</p>
<p><b><a name="Crochet_collar" id="Crochet_collar"></a>Crochet collar</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_484">484</a>).—We have avoided as far as
possible describing articles in this book that are subject to the
changes of fashion, the present collar composed of squares,
stars, lozenge-shaped figures and a lace edge, is of a shape
that will never be out of date. Fine and delicate work like this
can only be executed in a very fine material, and we recommend
unbleached thread as being more effective than white.
The soft tone and the gloss of unbleached thread give the work
<a name="Page_305" id="Page_305"></a>an antique look, unobtainable in a white material. Fil à dentelle
D.M.C No. 120 is the best for the purpose.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
<a href="images/full_497.jpg"><img src="images/497.jpg" width="550" height="731" alt="FIG. 484. CROCHET COLLAR." title="" /></a>
<a name="fig_484" id="fig_484"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 484. Crochet collar.<br />
Materials</span>: Fil d'Alsace D.M.C No. 100, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 120 or
Fil à dentelle D.M.C No. 120, écru.</span>
</div>
<p>Begin with the straight-edged figures, and then make the
connecting pieces between. The four squares with half stars at
both ends of the collar and on the right and left of the centre
square, have their four sides all alike, whereas the 3 figures
<a name="Page_306" id="Page_306"></a>within the scalloped edge are rather narrower on the outer
than on the inner side where they join to the foundation.</p>
<p>Inner squares: 1st row—4 chain, close the ring; 5 chain,
* 1 treble on the ring, 2 chain; repeat 6 times from * and
fasten the thread to the 3rd chain stitch.</p>
<p>2nd row—1 chain, 3 plain over 2 chain; 1 plain over each
treble.</p>
<p>3rd row—8 chain, * 1 treble on each treble of the 1st row,
6 chain. Repeat 6 times from * = 8 trebles in all, including
the first chain stitches.</p>
<p>4th row—* 10 chain; returning over the chain stitches: 1
plain, 1 half treble, 4 trebles, 1 half treble, 1 plain, join to the
1st chain stitch = on the 6 chain of the 3rd row: ** 1 plain,
1 half treble, 1 treble, 3 double trebles, 1 treble, 1 half treble,
1 plain ***. Repeat once more from ** to ***, then 3 times
from * to *** = along the first leaf to the 10th stitch: 10 single.</p>
<p>5th row—starting from the point: * 7 chain, 1 triple treble
on the 5th stitch of the small scallop of the 4th row: 7 chain,
1 triple treble on the next scallop, 7 chain, 1 plain on the 10th
stitch of the 2nd leaf. Repeat 3 times from *.</p>
<p>6th row—1 chain, * 3 plain on the stitch that forms the
point of the leaf; 1 plain on each chain stitch and each treble
of the last row = 16 stitches in all, up to the 2nd treble = turn
the work = coming back: 1 chain, 1 double treble on the 4th
plain, 1 chain, 1 double treble, 1 chain, 1 double treble, 1
chain, 1 double treble, 1 chain, 1 double treble, 1 chain, miss
3 plain, join to the 4th plain = turn the work = make on each
chain stitch, 2 plain and on each treble 1 plain and 1 picot
over the 1st, 2nd, 4th and 5th treble; 8 plain **. Repeat 3
times from * to **.</p>
<p>7th row—1 chain, 1 plain on the 2nd of the 3 stitches at
the point, * 9 chain, 1 double treble between the two first
picots of the semicircle formed in the last row; 8 chain, 1 triple
treble on the 3rd treble of the semicircle, 8 chain, 1 double
treble between the 3rd and 4th picots of the semicircle, 9 chain,
1 plain on the stitch at the corner.</p>
<p>8th row—19 single on the chain stitches of the 7th row,
1 chain, 3 plain on the corner stitch, 24 plain on the chain
<a name="Page_307" id="Page_307"></a>stitches and trebles = turn the work = coming back: 2 chain,
1 double treble on the 20th plain; on the same stitch add: 2
double trebles with 2 chain; finish with: 2 chain, join them to
the 5th plain = turn the work = on the chain stitches: 1 plain,
1 picot, 1 plain, 1 plain on the treble. Repeat this series 4 times
= add: 4 plain on the chain stitches of the 7th row = turn
the work = 5 chain, 1 double treble on the 1st treble of the
small semicircle; then again 3 times, 3 chain, and twice 1
double treble on each of the trebles beneath = after the last
5 chain: join to the 4th plain.</p>
<p>The points in this row are made with: * 1 plain on the chain
stitches, 8 chain, miss 1 stitch = coming back: 1 single, 1
plain, 1 half treble, 1 treble 1½ treble long, 3 double trebles,
1 plain on the 5 chain stitches. The 2nd point must be placed
one half of it, before, and the other half behind the picot;
make altogether 7 points = after the 7th: 8 plain on the
chain stitches of the 7th row = then work backwards, without
however turning the work: 7 chain, 1 chain on the stitch at
the top of the point and repeat 7 times from * = after the 8th
set of 7 chain stitches: 1 chain; 1 plain on the 9th plain,
bringing the thread forwards from the right side to the wrong
= 2 chain; take the thread back to the 3rd plain from the
wrong side to the right = 1 treble on each chain stitch, 1 picot
above each point, add 4 trebles and 14 chain, join them to the
4th treble that comes after the 1st picot.</p>
<p>On the 14 chain: 5 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain,
1 picot, 5 plain, 4 trebles to the next picot, 1 picot, 4 trebles;
14 plain, join them to the treble nearest the 1st scallop
and so on = make 7 scallops in all; after the 7th add 2 trebles
on the 2 chain stitches = after the 2nd treble make 2 plain,
followed by the 3 stitches at the corner = in the next scallop,
you fasten by 1 single, the 1st picot of the 1st scallop to the
3rd picot of the last scallop. When you have finished the four
sides of the figure above-described, fasten off your thread.</p>
<p>The edging of these squares should be begun on the
narrower of the inner sides and at the 3rd little scallop: * 1
plain on the middle picot of the 3rd little scallop, 7 chain, 1
double treble on the 1st picot of the 4th scallop; 7 chain,<a name="Page_308" id="Page_308"></a>
1 triple treble on the 2nd picot of the same scallop, 6 chain, 1
double treble on the 3rd picot of the same scallop, 6 chain, 1
plain on the middle picot of the 5th scallop; 10 chain, 1 treble
on the middle picot of the 6th scallop, 11 chain **, 1 quadruple
treble on the middle picot of the 7th and 1 quadruple
treble on the middle picot of the 1st scallop following and draw
the last loops of the 2 trebles up together. Repeat once from *
to **. Carry the trebles all round the figure on the picots just
referred to.</p>
<p>For the second half of the edging which becomes a little
wider: *** 10 chain, 1 treble on the 6th scallop, 11 chain,
2 quadruple trebles, the last loops of which you join to the
middle picots of the 7th and 1st scallop; 11 chain, 1 treble in
the next scallop; 10 chain, 1 treble in the 3rd scallop; 7 chain,
1 treble 2½ long, 8 chain, 1 treble 3½ long, 8 chain; 1 double
treble, 8 chain, 1 plain, 12 chain, 1 treble, 14 chain, **** 2
quadruple trebles, the last loops of which are joined together.
Repeat from **** to ***, that is the reverse way = finally
add 1 more whole row of plain and 3 plain stitches at the corners
= on the wider side you should have 99 stitches, not
counting the increases at the corner.</p>
<p>To make the same figure, forming a part of the large outside
scallops, repeat the same rows you have in the inner square up
to the 7th row, the first half of which you make exactly the
same as before. In the second half of the row of chain there
should be 1 chain stitch less in each intervening space than
there were in the first half.</p>
<p>8th row—make the first half of this row like the 8th row
of the inner square = over the 2nd half, one quarter of which
is 4 chain stitches narrower, the little wheels are made like the
others with 7 picots. The number of chain stitches and the
trebles of the setting are also the same, but instead of 7 points
you have to make 5 and over these, 5 small scallops instead of 7.</p>
<p>The setting, towards the top is made exactly in the same
manner as the wide part of the upper square, that is, as from
the 3rd scallop of the first semicircle to the 5th scallop of the
2nd. From this point, the series of stitches changes, so as to
form a rounded edge: * 7 chain, 1 plain on the 6th scallop;<a name="Page_309" id="Page_309"></a>
15 chain, 2 triple trebles joined by the last loops to the 7th
and 1st scallop; 14 chain, 1 plain on the 2nd of the 5 scallops;
15 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd scallop; 15 chain, 1 plain
on the 4th scallop, 15 chain **, 2 triple trebles joined by the
last loops in the 5th and 1st scallop. Repeat once again from
** to * = add 1 row of plain on each stitch of the preceding
row; 3 plain on the two top corner stitches. You will thus have
3 figures with a rounded edge on one side.</p>
<p>The second kind of square consists of 8 leaves inside and is
begun in the same way by 6 chain formed into a ring.</p>
<p>1st row—5 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, * 1 treble, 2 chain.
Repeat 6 times from * and join to the 3rd of the 5 chain.</p>
<p>2nd row—1 chain, 3 plain over 2 chain, 1 plain on each
treble.</p>
<p>3rd row—9 chain, * miss 1 stitch = coming back: 1 single,
1 plain, 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 double treble, 1 triple treble,
1 treble over the treble of the 2nd row; 7 chain. Repeat 7
times from * = after the 8th point: 7 single along the 1st.</p>
<p>4th row—* 1 plain on the stitch you missed at the point,
5 chain, 1 triple treble on the treble of the 3rd row, 5 chain.
Repeat 7 times from *.</p>
<p>5th row—3 chain, 1 treble on each stitch of the 4th row;
join to the 3rd of the 3 chain.</p>
<p>6th row—10 chain, 1 plain on the treble over the triple
treble of the 4th row: 10 chain, 1 plain on the treble above
the little point.</p>
<p>7th row—15 plain on the 10 chain = on the 3rd scallop
only: * 7 plain, 10 chain, come back to the second scallop,
bring the thread back from the wrong side to the right between
the 7th and 8th plain stitches, 15 plain on the 3rd
scallop, 8 plain on the next scallop, 15 plain and repeat 6
times from *.</p>
<p>When the 16th scallop is finished, pass to the point of the
1st scallop by means of 7 single, then add the 10 chain to
pass to the 8th scallop above; when that is finished, fasten off,
and fasten on again to one of the 8 scallops.</p>
<p>8th row—* 21 chain, miss 1 stitch, 1 plain, 1 half treble,
1 treble, 1 treble 1½ treble long, 1 double treble, 1 treble 2½
<a name="Page_310" id="Page_310"></a>trebles long, 1 triple treble, 1 treble 3½ trebles long, 1 quadruple
treble, 1 treble 4½ trebles long, 1 quintuple treble.
After passing through the 3rd loop, make 1 quadruple treble,
between the 2 plain scallops; then finish the quintuple treble,
7 chain, 1 plain on the 2nd scallop and repeat 7 times from *.</p>
<p>9th row—* 7 plain on the 7 chain; 1 plain on each stitch
of the pyramid, 3 plain on the stitch at the point; 4 plain on
the 7 chain on the opposite side = turn the work = ** 1 chain,
miss 1 plain, 1 treble on the 2nd stitch = after the 5th treble,
leave out no more stitches between the trebles ***; place the
8th, 9th and 10th trebles on the 2nd of the increased stitches.
Repeat on the opposite side from *** to ** and join to the
4th of the plain stitches = make 17 trebles in all, then one
plain over each chain, 1 plain on each treble and 1 picot after
every 3rd plain = after the 4th and up to the 8th picot, leave
only 2 plain between: 11 picots in all = in conclusion: 3 plain
more on the 7 chain and repeat the whole 7 times from *.</p>
<p>The little wheel at the top of the square is begun with 10
chain for the ring = 16 plain on the ring, 4 chain, * 1 treble,
1 chain = repeat 14 times from *; 16 trebles in all, including
the chain stitches = then on each treble and each chain stitch:
1 plain; after 4 plain: 1 picot; connect the wheel first on the
right.</p>
<p>The 2nd picot is to be fastened to the 9th picot of the large
scallop = proceed with: 3 times 4 plain with 1 picot = after
the 3rd plain, fasten the picot to the 3rd picot of the next large
scallop and complete the small wheel. The left wheel is made
and inserted in the same manner as the right one. The wheels
at the bottom of the square require for the foundation ring:
14 chain, on which you make 21 plain = on these: 4 chain,
* 1 treble, 1 chain = repeat 19 times from *; 21 trebles in all,
including the chain stitches = 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot,
3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 4 chain, join to the 8th picot of the
2nd scallop; 4 chain, finish the picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain,
8 chain, join to the 10th picot of the scallop, 8 chain, complete
the picot; 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 8 chain, join to the 2nd
picot of the 3rd scallop, 8 chain, close the picot, 3 chain, 1
picot, 3 plain, 4 chain, join to the 4th picot of the 3rd scallop;<a name="Page_311" id="Page_311"></a>
4 chain, complete the picot, 3 plain, 1 picot and so on, until
you have 14 picots round the wheel. Repeat the same wheel to
the left between the 4th and 5th scallop.</p>
<p>The edging of this second kind of square is also slightly
different; fasten the thread to the 6th picot of the 1st scallop
before the small wheel, then working from right to left, count:
* 10 chain, 1 treble on the 2nd empty picot of the small wheel;
8 chain, 1 triple treble on the 4th picot of the wheel = upwards:
9 chain, 1 double treble on the 6th picot of the
wheel; 9 chain, 1 plain on the 6th picot of the 8th scallop, 12
chain, 1 plain on the 7th picot of the scallop, 11 chain **, 1
quadruple treble on the 9th picot of the 8th scallop and on
the 3rd picot of the 7th; draw the last loops of the two trebles
up together. Repeat once more from ** to *, then: 1 plain on
the 6th picot of the 6th scallop; *** 12 chain, 1 sextuple
treble on the 9th picot of the 6th scallop, retain 2 loops of
the treble on the needle, make 4 more overs, join the treble to
the 3rd picot of the 5th scallop; finish the bars, 12 chain, 1
plain in the 6th picot of the next scallop = 12 chain, 1 double
treble on the 2nd picot of the 7 empty picots of the bottom
wheel; 9 chain, 1 quadruple treble on the 4th picot; 12 chain,
1 double treble on the 6th picot, 14 chain, 1 plain on the 6th
picot of the 4th scallop, 14 chain ***, 1 septuple treble, in
the 9th and 3rd picots of the 4th and 3rd scallops ****. For
the preceding treble, you pass first through 4 loops only, then
make 4 more overs for the other half of the treble, and finish
the last loops one by one. Repeat from **** to ***. One row
of plain stitches completes the square.</p>
<p>After having made the square similar to that of the upper
one, you have merely to add the large wheels at the top.</p>
<p>The setting of chain stitches and trebles is begun at the
first scallop between 2 wheels = 1 plain on the 6th picot of the
1st scallop; 14 chain, 2 quintuple trebles, of which the last
loops only are joined together, on the 9th and 3rd picot of the
1st and 2nd scallop, = 14 chain, 1 plain on the 6th picot of the
next scallop; * 14 chain, 1 treble on the 2nd empty picot of
the wheel; 10 chain, 1 quadruple treble on the 4th picot, 10
chain, 1 treble on the 6th picot; 14 chain, 1 plain on the 6th
<a name="Page_312" id="Page_312"></a>picot of the 3rd scallop; 14 chain, 2 sextuple trebles on the
10th and 2nd picot of the 3rd and 4th scallop; 15 chain, 1
plain on the 6th picot of the 4th scallop; 16 chain, 2 sextuple
trebles on the 10th and 2nd picot of the 4th and 5th scallop;
16 chain, 1 plain on the 6th picot of the 5th scallop; 15 chain
** 3 septuple trebles on the 10th and 2nd picot of the 5th
and 6th scallop. Repeat from ** to *; and make 4 figures
with rounded edges. When all the figures are finished, join
them together by trebles of a suitable length.</p>
<p>Introduce the thread at the corner stitch on the widest side
of the 2nd 8 pointed star and make: 1 plain, 6 chain, miss 3
stitches, 1 plain on the 3 next stitches, 4 chain, miss 2, 1
plain on the next 3 plain stitches.</p>
<p>Make 11 loops in this manner, each consisting of 4 chain
and 3 plain, then 2 loops of 3 chain and 2 plain = then miss
as many stitches of the square at the edge of the collar as were
left empty in the second square; 2 plain and draw the loop
each time through the 2 last stitches of the opposite square
= 1 chain, 1 single on the 2nd chain stitch of the opposite
side; 1 chain, 3 plain on the edge of the first square, 1 chain,
1 single, 1 chain, miss 3 stitches, 3 plain, 5 chain, bring the
loop from the wrong side to the right = on the chain stitches:
4 plain, 2 chain, miss 3, 3 plain.</p>
<p>From this point onwards, fasten all the bars of chain stitches
to the loops produced by the same stitches in the 2nd square.
Thus, the 1st bar consisting of 5 chain, the 2nd will consist of
7 chain on which make 7 plain, and then add 2 more chain.
Nowhere must the two first chain stitches be uncovered.</p>
<p>The 3rd bar must consist of 9 chain, 9 plain and 2 chain
= the 4th of 11 chain, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 2 chain =
the 5th of 13 chain, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain,
2 chain = the 6th of 16 chain, 6 plain, 1 picot, 6 plain, 1
picot, 6 plain, 2 chain = the 7th of 18 chain, 5 plain, 1 picot,
4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 2 chain = the 8th
of 21 chain, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot,
5 plain, 2 chain = the 9th of 24 chain, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5
plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 2
chain = the 10th of 26 chain, 6 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot,<a name="Page_313" id="Page_313"></a>
5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 6 plain, 2 chain = the 11th
and last of 28 chain, 32 plain, 2 chain, fasten off.</p>
<p>As the square with the semicircles in it, has more plain stitches
in the edge than the one with the eight-pointed star in it, the
stitches must be divided so that you miss 3 from time to time,
instead of two. When the 7 top figures are finished, join the 7
bottom ones to them, each separately, by a row of plain stitches,
made on the wrong side of the work. Below the first square
with the semicircles, comes the eight-pointed star, below
the next eight-pointed star, the square with the semicircles,
and so on.</p>
<p>A narrow edging forms the outside border, the foundation
of which is a row of plain stitches running all along the squares.
At the middle of the square you decrease by 2 stitches, and at
the point where two squares meet, by 3. When you reach the
left side and the end of the row, make 3 plain on the corner
stitch, then: * 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 14 chain, join them
to the first of the 5 first plain (drop the thread at each scallop
and bring it forward from the wrong side to the right) = on
the 14 chain: 5 plain, 1 picot, 11 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain = along
the square: 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, then 14 chain, join them
to the first plain = over the 14 chain: 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain,
14 chain, join them in turning back between the 5th and 6th
of the 10 plain of the 1st scallop; 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1
picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain; on the half-finished scallop: 5
plain, 1 picot, 5 plain ** = on the plain stitches of the edge:
4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 12 chain, come back, join to the 1st
of the 4 plain = on the 12 chain: 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1
picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain *** = repeat on the same
figure once from * to *** and once from * to **.</p>
<p>This makes 77 stitches, the number there ought to be on
the wide side of the straight-edged figures.</p>
<p>The scallops vary a little on the rounded sides. There,
you should have 110 stitches, counting from the corner to the
treble that marks the middle at the bottom. The single scallops,
between the triple scallops of the border, are also all made
over 8 stitches; the first triple scallop is made over 20 stitches,
the 2nd, 3rd and 4th triple scallop over 16 stitches.</p><p><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314"></a></p>
<p>Make no single scallop after the 4th triple one; which is
immediately succeeded by the 5th triple scallop, over 16 stitches.</p>
<p>Altogether, round each star, there are 9 triple and 8 single
scallops. After the 8th single one, make 3 plain stitches on the
2 chain stitches of the connecting bar.</p>
<p>On the 32 plain stitches of the last bar: 8 plain, 1 picot,
4 plain, 12 chain, bring them back and join to the 5th of the
8 plain = on the 12 chain: 5 plain, 2 chain, draw the loop
through the picot in the middle of the last single scallop, 2
chain, close the picot, 8 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain = in the bar:
4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 12 chain, bring them back and fasten
them to the 1st plain = 5 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 12 chain, join
them to the 4th plain of the 1st scallop; 5 plain, 1 picot, 8
plain, 1 picot, 5 plain = in the half-finished scallop: 4 plain,
1 picot, 4 plain = in the bar: 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain =
12 chain, bring them back and fasten them to the 1st plain.
4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 12 chain, join them close to the
scallop above = 5 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 12 chain, bring
them back and join them to the 4th plain of the 2nd scallop;
5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain =
in each of the 2 half-finished scallops: 4 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain
= finish with 4 plain, 3 plain on the 2 chain and repeat from
* round all the rounded parts.</p>
<p>The lozenges that fill the empty spaces between the large
figures are made in 7 rows, on a ring formed of 4 chain.</p>
<p>1st row—5 chain, 1 treble on the ring, 2 chain, 8 trebles
in all, including the bar of chain stitches.</p>
<p>2nd row—3 plain over 2 chain, 1 plain over each treble.</p>
<p>3rd row—7 chain, 1 treble over the treble beneath, 5 chain,
1 treble; 8 trebles in all.</p>
<p>4th row—* 1 plain, 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 double treble,
1 treble 2½ trebles long; ** repeat the reverse way to * =
1 plain on the treble, 7 chain, miss 1 stitch, 1 plain, 1 treble,
1 double treble, 1 treble, 1 plain. Repeat twice from * to **,
followed by: 9 chain, miss 1, 1 single, 1 plain, 1 half treble,
2 trebles, 1 half treble, 1 plain, 1 single ***. Repeat once
from * to ***, then again from * to **, and add 5 single all
along the scallop.</p><p><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315"></a></p>
<p>5th row—9 chain * 1 plain on the top stitch of the small
leaf, 7 chain, 1 treble on the middle stitch of the scallop, 7
chain, 1 treble on the next scallop = 9 chain, 1 plain on the
leaf, 9 chain, 1 treble on the scallop, 7 chain, 1 treble on the
next scallop, 7 chain and repeat once from *.</p>
<p>6th row—1 plain on each stitch of the row before, 3 plain
on the points.</p>
<p>7th row—on each side of the lozenge 3 little scallops on
8 chain, with 3 picots and 1 picot below the scallops and between
every 4 plain; the scallops at the points extend over 4
stitches only, so that the picot below is left out.</p>
<p>These lozenges are fastened on two sides to the middle
picot of the triple scallop; then, starting from the 3rd scallop
of the lozenge you make, 8 chain, join them to the middle
picot of the 1st triple scallop; coming back over the 8 chain:
5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain and finish the scallop. The next scallop,
at the point of the lozenge, is fastened by a picot of 6
chain, to the middle picot of the 6th scallop underneath the
connecting bar. Repeat the same on the 2nd side and make 6
lozenges in all.</p>
<p>The lace that finishes off the collar at the neck must be
made to stand up, and is begun by a row of trebles on the
plain stitches.</p>
<p>From the corner as far as the 2nd treble of the 4th scallop,
make triple trebles, from the 4th scallop to the 6th chain
stitch after the 5th scallop, make double trebles, from this point
to the 2nd scallop of the next semicircle, only single trebles,
then again double trebles and finish with triple trebles as at
the beginning. Decrease by 2 or 3 stitches in each square.</p>
<p>When this row of trebles is finished, fasten off, and fasten
on again on the right and on the base of the 1st treble which
you border with 4 chain, then follow: * 15 plain on the row of
trebles, put the needle in under the 2 loops of the trebles =
turn the work = 2 chain, 1 double treble, miss 4 plain, 1 double
treble on the 5th stitch, 2 chain, 1 double treble, 2 chain, 1
double treble, 2 chain, miss 4 plain = turn the work = bring
the loop to the front; ** 1 plain, 1 picot, 1 plain, 1 plain on
the treble; repeat 3 times again from ** and add 4 plain on
<a name="Page_316" id="Page_316"></a>the trebles = turn the work = 6 chain, 1 double treble over
the treble beneath; again 3 times 6 chain stitches and 1 double
treble; join the 4th set of 6 chain to the 4th plain = bring the
thread back to the front: 1 plain on the 6 chain = 8 chain,
miss 1, and make on the others: 1 plain, 1 half treble, 2 trebles,
1 treble 1½ treble long, 2 double trebles, 1 plain stitch on the
6 chain. The next point comes above a treble; you make 7
points in all. After the 7th: 5 plain, then 7 chain, 1 plain on
each point between the points and join.</p>
<p>Join the 8th set of 7 chain on to the 4th plain of the first treble
= then add: 2 chain, draw the loop from the wrong side to
the right through the 1st plain stitch; 8 trebles, 1 picot, 4
trebles, 12 chain, bring them back over the picot, join it between
the 4th and 5th trebles; 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot,
5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain.</p>
<p>Over each point: 1 picot and over the picot 1 scallop, like
the one made in the square. On the 7th point only 1 picot =
after the last treble on the last chain: 2 chain; then go on
with the plain stitches until you have 27 and repeat from *.</p>
<p>In the semicircles that follow you leave out the first and
last little scallops, the first and the last scallop must be joined
together by the first and the last picot; in the last semicircle,
make 6 little scallops, the same as you did in the first.</p>
<p><b><a name="Crochet_chair-back" id="Crochet_chair-back"></a>Crochet chair-back</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_485">485</a>).—The close leaves in plain
stitch of the large centre star, the 4 corner figures forming a
cross and the diagonal figures, all have to be made separately
and sewn on afterwards in their proper place. To join the
separate parts neatly together, draw a square the size of the
work on a piece of thick paper or waxcloth, divide it into 8
parts by means of straight and diagonal lines, sew the separate
pieces of crochet upon it, face downwards, in their proper places
and make the trebles on the wrong side of the work.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;">
<a href="images/full_498.jpg"><img src="images/498.jpg" width="550" height="549" alt="FIG. 485. CROCHET CHAIR-BACK." title="" /></a>
<a name="fig_485" id="fig_485"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 485. Crochet chair-back.<br />
Materials</span>: Fil à dentelle D.M.C No. 50 for the close figures and
No. 120 for the connecting bars.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span>
</div>
<p>Begin by the centre star and make: 12 chain, close the ring.</p>
<p>1st row—23 plain on the 12 chain.</p>
<p>2nd row—9 chain, 1 double treble on the 2nd plain, 4
chain, 1 treble and so on until you have 12 trebles, including
the 5 chain.</p><p><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317"></a></p>
<p>3rd row—1 plain on each chain stitch and each treble; 60
plain in all.</p>
<p>4th row—3 plain, 1 picot, altogether 20 picots in the row,
then fasten off.</p>
<p>The leaves round the ring have 3 petals, 1 large and 2
small; you begin by the large one, and make the small ones
afterwards. The petals should be begun from the point and not
from the bottom as is generally done—30 chain; coming back:
4 single, 4 plain, 5 half trebles, 8 trebles, 4 half trebles, 4 plain
stitches, 3 plain on the 1st chain = on the second side of
<a name="Page_318" id="Page_318"></a>the chain make the same number of stitches but in the reverse
order.</p>
<p>Small petal on the left—21 chain, miss 1, 5 plain, 3
half trebles, 5 trebles, 3 half trebles, 3 plain, 3 plain on the
top. Repeat the same series of stitches in the reverse order
on the second side = at the 10th stitch of the large petal
and counting upwards from below, draw the thread through
the 10th stitch of the small petal, and do the same through the 9
next stitches = for this purpose drop the loop each time and
draw it back through the opposite stitch, from the wrong side
to the right. After making the same petal on the right, fasten
off; fasten on again at the outer edge and edge the 3 petals
with 1 plain on each stitch and 3 plain on the stitch at the point;
make 4 leaves with 3 petals each.</p>
<p>Between the pointed leaves, which are afterwards placed on
the diagonal line of the square, come some very long leaves which
are rounded towards the top—29 chain, miss 1, 5 plain, 2
chain, 1 treble on the 3rd of the chain stitches; carry on the
trebles until you have, on coming to the last chain, 7 trebles =
turn the work and make 1 plain on each stitch of the row =
turn the work = 1 plain on every stitch all round = turn the
work = * 9 plain, 4 half trebles, 3 trebles, 2 double trebles,
join the last loops of the 2 last trebles together; set the 20th
and 21st double treble on the same stitch = the 20th treble
2½ trebles long; the 21st a triple treble = on the next plain
stitch; 1 treble 3½ trebles long and 1 quadruple treble =
again on the next stitch: 2 trebles, the first of them 4½
trebles long, the 2nd a quintuple one = on the 3rd plain: 2
quintuple trebles, 4 chain, 1 plain on the plain stitch of the
2nd row and next to the last quintuple treble, 1 half treble,
1 treble, 2 double trebles on one stitch, 2 triple trebles on one
stitch **, 1 quadruple treble on the 2 next stitches. Repeat from
** to *, therefore in the reverse order.</p>
<p>To make the large star which is the first of the figures
placed on the diagonal line, make: 4 chain, close the ring.</p>
<p>1st row—10 chain,* 1 double treble on the 4 chain, 5
chain. Repeat 4 times from *, 6 trebles in all.</p>
<p>2nd row—over 5 chain: 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 treble<a name="Page_319" id="Page_319"></a>
1½ treble long, 1 double treble, 1 treble 2½ trebles long **,
1 triple treble. Repeat once from ** to * and 5 times from *
to **.</p>
<p>3rd row—1 plain on each stitch of the 2nd row.</p>
<p>4th row—3 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain, * 2 chain, 1 picot, 5
chain, miss 1 = coming back: 4 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain = on
the plain stitches of the 3rd row: 2 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain.
Repeat from *, with this difference that the trebles that are
placed over the half trebles of the 2nd row must begin with 3
chain. Make, altogether, 12 long bars, 6 of them beginning with
2 chain and 6 with 3; these bars remain empty; after the
12th you fasten off.</p>
<p>5th row—fasten on the thread to the top stitch of a treble,
11 chain, 1 plain. Repeat this series 11 times.</p>
<p>6th and 7th row—1 plain on each stitch of the 5th row,
then 1 plain on each stitch of the 6th row.</p>
<p>8th row—over 9 bars and 8 spaces: 3 plain, 1 picot, 3
plain and so on. Add nothing further to the 2 rows of plain
stitches of the 10th, 11th and 12th picots.</p>
<p>For the second star of the corner figure 4 chain, close.</p>
<p>1st row—8 chain, 1 treble, * 5 chain, 1 treble. Repeat 3
times from *; 5 trebles in all, including the chain stitches.</p>
<p>2nd row—* 1 chain, 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 treble 1½
treble long, 1 double treble, 1 triple treble **. Repeat from
** to *, and the whole series 4 times.</p>
<p>3rd row—* 1 chain, 3 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain, 2 chain, 1
picot, 4 chain = coming back, 4 plain on the 4 chain, 1 picot,
2 chain = on the stitches of the 2nd row: 2 plain, 1 picot, 2
plain, 3 chain, 1 picot, 5 chain, miss 1, 4 plain = coming
back: 1 picot, 3 plain. Repeat 4 times from *, fasten off.</p>
<p>4th row—fasten on at the point of one of the bars and
make from one bar to the other: 9 chain, 1 plain on each bar.</p>
<p>5th row—1 plain on each stitch of the last row.</p>
<p>6th row—1 plain on each stitch of the last row and join
the 4 last stitches to the 4 that are under the 11th treble of
the 1st star, taking care to put the trebles one above the other.</p>
<p>The 3rd star also begins with 4 chain formed into a ring.</p><p><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320"></a></p>
<p>1st row—8 chain, 1 treble, 5 chain, 1 treble, 5 chain, 1
treble, 5 chain, join them to the 4th of the 8 chain.</p>
<p>2nd row—2 chain, * 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 treble, 1½
treble long, 1 double treble **. Repeat from ** to * and then,
3 times from * to **.</p>
<p>3rd row—1 plain on each stitch of the 2nd row.</p>
<p>4th row—1 chain, 2 plain, * 1 picot, 3 chain, 1 picot, 5
chain. Repeat 3 times from *; after the 8th picot: 3 chain.</p>
<p>5th row—15 chain, 1 triple treble on the 5th and on the
2nd plain stitch between 2 picots, 9 chain, 1 triple treble and
so on. Altogether, including the chain stitches, 8 trebles and
8 times 9 chain; join to the 7th chain.</p>
<p>6th and 7th row—1 plain on each stitch of the previous
row; join the 4 last stitches again to the 4th stitch of the 2nd
star and fasten off.</p>
<p>The open work border is made from the 1st large star,
beginning near the 9th treble at the point where the picots
leave off. After fastening on the thread: 5 chain, miss 2 plain,
1 plain on the 3rd = at the point where the circles meet,
miss 3 or 4 stitches on each side and carry the treble over
the indent of the scallop.</p>
<p>After finishing the picots of chain stitches on the two sides
and as far as the 3rd treble of the large star, fasten off; fasten
on again on the right of the large star: 4 chain, 1 plain on the
3rd chain; put the needle only through the 2 upper loops of
the chain stitch; in the indent, connect 3 picots by 1 chain
stitch; 2 chain and 1 plain between the next plain stitches.
Fasten off. The 2 next rows both begin on the right and consist
of plain stitches only; in the indent of the rings join 3
stitches of the preceding row together by 1 plain.</p>
<p>The 5 leaves over the circles—Begin with the middle and
largest one—25 chain, miss 1, 3 plain, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble,
2 chain and so on, 7 trebles in all = turn the work = 1 plain
on each stitch, passing under only 1 loop of the stitches = on
the stitch you missed: 3 plain; on the second side: 1 plain
on each stitch = turn the work = do as in the last row = turn
the work = do as in the 2 last rows, excepting as regards the 5
last stitches which you leave untouched = turn the work =<a name="Page_321" id="Page_321"></a>
15 plain, * 1 chain = turn the work = 12 plain = turn the
work = 12 plain on the 12 plain and on all those you missed
**. Fasten off the thread. On the 2nd side of the leaf: draw
the thread through the 6th stitch, counting upwards from below
and on the side that is not indented, 15 plain and repeat from
* to ** = then make: 1 row of plain, putting the needle
through both the loops of the lower stitches = at the points
of the leaves: 3 plain, in the indents of the leaves miss 1 stitch.</p>
<p>First leaf on the right of the large leaf—25 chain, miss 1,
3 plain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain; 7 trebles in all =
turn the work = 1 plain on each stitch, 18 stitches altogether,
to the corner stitch; 3 plain on the corner stitch. The 2nd side
is worked like the 1st.</p>
<p>Add 3 more rows of plain stitches and increase 3 plain
on the stitch at the point = in the 3rd row leave the 5 last
stitches empty = turn the work = 11 plain, 1 chain = turn
the work = 11 plain and 5 plain on the 5 stitches that were
passed over; fasten off.</p>
<p>On the opposite side fasten on the thread on the wrong side
at the 8th stitch counting from the point: 12 plain, 1 chain
= turn the work = 12 plain = turn the work = make plain
stitches up to the end of the leaf and border it, like the large
leaf, with plain stitches = join the 8 first stitches to the corresponding
ones in the large leaf = make 4 leaves all alike.</p>
<p>2nd leaf on the left—19 chain, miss 1, 3 plain, 2 chain, 1
treble on the 2nd chain; 7 trebles in all = turn the work = 1
plain on each of the preceding stitches, 3 plain on the stitch at
the point = turn the work = 1 row of plain stitches = turn
the work = 1 row of plain = turn the work = 1 row of plain,
excepting on the last 7 stitches = turn the work = 14 plain,
1 chain = 3 more rows to and fro with 11 plain; fasten off, and
fasten on again on the 2nd side at the 6th stitch counting from
below: 2 rows of 11 plain and 1 row to the end of the leaf =
then encircle this leaf, like the others with plain stitches, join
the 8 last stitches to the last 8 of the large leaf = make 4 leaves
all alike.</p>
<p>3rd leaf on the right—18 chain, miss 1, 2 plain, 1 chain,
1 treble on the 3rd chain, 5 trebles in all = turn the work =<a name="Page_322" id="Page_322"></a>
4 rows of plain worked to and fro; on the stitch at the point:
3 plain = after the 4th row: 4 trebles, 8 plain, 1 chain, 4 plain,
1 chain, 4 plain, 1 chain, then plain stitches to the end =
fasten off. On the second side, fasten on to the 6th stitch counting
downwards from the top: 9 plain = coming back: 3 plain, 1
chain, 7 plain = coming back: 7 plain, 1 chain = then to the
end of the leaf, 1 plain on each stitch.</p>
<p>3rd leaf on the left—14 chain, miss 1, 2 plain, 2 chain, 1
treble, 2 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, 1 treble;
4 rows of plain all round, 3 plain on the stitch at the point,
and 3 plain on the added stitch. After the 4th row: 14 plain
= turn the work = 10 plain = turn the work = 3 single, 7
plain = coming back: 7 plain = coming back again: 7 plain; after
the last plain, 1 single on each plain up to the top = fasten off.</p>
<p>On the second side of the leaf: 9 plain = turn the work =
5 plain = turn the work = 5 plain, 1 single on each of the
remaining stitches = turn the work = surround the whole
leaf with plain stitches; 3 plain on each stitch at the point;
join the 8 last stitches to the 8 last of the 2nd leaf.</p>
<p>Branch on the right and 1st leaf—28 chain, miss 1, 4 plain,
1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd
chain, 1 chain, 1 treble 1½ treble long on the 3rd chain, 1
chain, 1 treble 1½ treble long on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1
treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 half treble on the 3rd chain,
1 chain, miss 2 stitches, 5 plain = on the second side of the
chain: * 1 plain on each stitch, 3 plain on the 2nd of the
missed stitches. Repeat 3 times from *. After the 4th row of
plain: 6 chain = turn the work = 1 row of plain on both
sides and plain stitches on the 6 chain; fasten off the thread.
Counting back the last stitches, fasten on the thread at the
18th stitch, make one more row of plain, fasten off.</p>
<p>2nd leaf of the branch—22 chain, miss 1, 3 plain, 1 chain,
1 half treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd
chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 half treble
on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd chain, 1 plain
on each of the remaining stitches; 4 rows of plain, to and fro,
in each of the stitches of the last row. The rows touch, and
therefore encircle the leaf.</p><p><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323"></a></p>
<p>3rd leaf—16 chain, miss 1, 2 plain, 1 chain, 1 treble on
the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1
treble on the 3rd chain, 1 plain on each of the remaining
stitches, 4 rows of plain, to and fro round the leaf; 3 plain on
the stitch at the top of the leaf and 3 on the one at the bottom.</p>
<p>When these 3 leaves are finished, join them together on
the wrong side so that the end of the 2nd leaf is parallel with
the last treble of the 1st leaf, and the end of the 3rd leaf parallel
with the 1st of the last plain stitches of the 2nd leaf. Having
sewn these 3 leaves together, carry on the plain stitches with
the thread of the 3rd little leaf over the two others. Fasten off
the thread, join it on again at the 10th plain stitch of the 3rd
little leaf, counting the stitches downwards from the top = 40
chain, 1 single on the 34th chain = on the ring: 10 plain, 1 plain
each chain and 1 plain on each stitch of the leaves = then,
make 3 more rows of plain and 2 plain on every second stitch
of the 10 stitches in the ring.</p>
<p>Having reached the chain stitches, fasten on the thread,
turn the work and continue the other rows. When the rows
of plain stitches are finished, draw a thread through the chain
stitches and pull them gently together.</p>
<p>Branch on the left and 1st leaf—22 chain, miss 1, 3 plain,
2 chain, 1 treble on the 2nd chain, 2 chain, 1 treble 1½ treble
long, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 1½ treble long, 2 chain, miss
1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 plain
on each of the remaining stitches. The remainder the same as
for the right leaf.</p>
<p>2nd leaf—16 chain, miss 1, 2 plain, 2 chain, 1 treble, 2
chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss
1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 plain on each of the remaining
stitches. The rest the same as for the right leaf.</p>
<p>3rd leaf—12 chain, miss 1, 2 plain, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble,
2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain,
miss 1, 1 plain on each of the remaining stitches. The remainder,
as well as the little ring, the same as for the right leaf. Make
altogether 4 leaves for the right side and 4 for the left.</p>
<p>Calyx of the small flowers.—11 chain = turn the work =
1 plain on the first 5 chain, 3 plain on the 6th chain, 1 plain
<a name="Page_324" id="Page_324"></a>on the 5 other chain = turn the work = * 2 chain, 1 treble
on the 1st plain, 1 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain,
** 3 trebles on the second of the 3 plain, on the 6th chain,
repeat once from ** to * = turn the work = 1 plain on each
of the preceding stitches, 3 single on the added stitch = turn
the work = 1 single on the first 2 plain; plain stitches as far
as the middle stitch; 13 chain, miss 1, 1 plain on each chain
stitch, 6 plain, 2 single. Fasten off. Make 8 calices in all.</p>
<p>Small flowers of three different sizes—Make altogether, 24
large, 12 of medium size, and 16 small.</p>
<p>For the large flowers—18 chain, close the ring, 24 plain
on the 18 chain; 1 plain on every stitch of the preceding row
and 1 picot after every second plain stitch. Join the first and
the last picots of 2 large flowers to the calyx, the 2nd and the
3rd picots of one large flower to the 10th and 11th picots of
the other. Join the 1st and 11th picots of the 3rd flower to the
8th picot of the first and to the 5th of the second flower.</p>
<p>For the medium-sized flowers—14 chain, close the ring =
20 plain on the ring, then a second row of plain with 1 picot
after every second plain stitch.</p>
<p>These flowers connect the centre figure with the corner one.</p>
<p>For the small flowers—10 chain, close the ring = 16 plain
on the ring, then a second row of plain stitches with a picot
after every second stitch. Sew the medium-sized flowers and
the small ones to the big ones with overcasting stitches.</p>
<p>As regards the bars of chain stitches that complete the
pattern they can easily be copied from the illustration.</p>
<hr style='width: 45%;' />
<p class="center"><a href="./chapter_10.html">Next Chapter.</a></p>
<p class="center"><a href="./20776-h.htm#TABLE_OF_CONTENTS">Return to Table of Contents.</a></p>
<hr style='width: 45%;' />
<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A" id="Footnote_A"></a><span class="label">[A]</span> See at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and sizes
and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.</p></div>
</div>
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