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diff --git a/old/20776-h/chapter_8.html b/old/20776-h/chapter_8.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c3102b7 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/20776-h/chapter_8.html @@ -0,0 +1,2322 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Encyclopedia of Needlework, by Thérèse De Dillmont. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + clear: both; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + .br {border-right: solid 2px;} + .caption {font-weight: bold; + text-align: center} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + .figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: + 1em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .figright {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .footnotes {border: dashed 1px;} + .footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + .footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} + .fnanchor {vertical-align:baseline; + position: relative; + bottom: 0.33em; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: none;} + + --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> + </head> +<body> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/350.jpg" alt="INSERTION—PLAIN STITCHES AND OVERS" title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Insertion—Plain stitches and overs</span> +</div> + + +<p><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171"></a></p> + +<hr style="width: 15%;" /> +<h2><a name="Knitting" id="Knitting"></a>Knitting.</h2> +<hr style="width: 15%;" /> + + +<p>Knitting is one of the earliest forms of needlework, and +one, which has been carried to the highest perfection. It would +be difficult to invent new stitches or patterns and, we shall +therefore confine ourselves to describing the stitches in general +use, and reproducing those of the old patterns we consider +the most useful, that our readers may make their own selection.</p> + +<p>In former days, knitting served mainly for the manufacture +of stockings, and even now, in spite of machines, handknit +stockings, and numberless other useful and ornamental articles, +such as shawls, counterpanes, cradle-coverings, gloves, laces +etc. are in great request.</p> + +<p>Besides its practical use, knitting is an easy and pleasant +pastime that can be taken up at odd minutes and even carried +on, whilst talking, or reading.</p> + +<p>Knitting consists of loops, or stitches, as they are generally +called, formed by means of a thread and two needles.</p> + +<p>In round knitting, four, or five needles are necessary for +the better handling of the work.</p> + +<p>Through the loops formed in knitting, being connected +together in unbroken continuity, a very elastic fabric is produced, +which is specially suitable for making warm, and +closely-fitting wearing-apparel.</p><p><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172"></a></p> + +<p><b>Materials</b>.—Threads with a slight twist, such as Coton à +tricoter D.M.C, are the best. With regard to the thickness of +the needles, whether they be of steel, wood, or bone, your +choice must be determined by the quality of the thread used.</p> + +<p>The accompanying table is intended to help inexperienced +knitters to match their needles and thread, we advisedly say, +help, as it is impossible exactly to determine the numbers that +will correspond, because every hand knits differently, and a +loose knitter has to use finer needles than a tight knitter.</p> + +<p>Other materials are enumerated here, besides, what is +properly speaking, called knitting-cotton, as for caps, lace +edgings, insertions and so forth, finer kinds of thread and +threads with a stronger twist which show up the pattern better, +should be used.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/351.jpg" alt="Table of the approximate relation of the D.M.C threads +and cottons to the numbers of the knitting needles" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Table of the approximate relation of the D.M.C threads +and cottons to the numbers of the knitting needles.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p><b><a name="Position_of_the_hands" id="Position_of_the_hands"></a>Position of the hands in knitting</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_341">341</a>.)—Lay the +thread over the fifth finger of the right hand, and twist it +round it, then carry it over the forefinger, which should be +kept close to the work, the work being held between the third +finger and the thumb. The left hand remains more or less +<a name="Page_173" id="Page_173"></a>inactive, having merely, by a slight movement of the forefinger +to pass the loops, in succession, on to the needle in the right +hand, which forms the stitches. This position of the hands, +which is the one usually adopted in England and France, is +the one represented in our illustration. The Germans on the +contrary, lay the thread over the left hand, and can move the +hands much more quickly, in consequence. There are some +ways of casting on, which can only be done in the German +fashion.</p> + +<p>To prevent the irregularity in stitches, the needles should +never be allowed to protrude more than 1 or 1½ c/m, from +the work. All exaggerated movement of the arms, which renders +knitting a very tiring occupation, should be avoided.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/352.jpg" alt="FIG. 341. POSITION OF THE HANDS IN KNITTING." title="" /> +<a name="fig_341" id="fig_341"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 341. Position of the hands in knitting.</span> +</div> + +<p><b><a name="Casting_on" id="Casting_on"></a>Casting on.</b>—Casting, or, setting on, as it is sometimes +called, is the formation of the first row of stitches which are +to constitute the foundation of the work.</p> + +<p>There are four methods of casting on: (1) crossed casting +on, done in four different ways; (2) knitting on; (3) slipping +on, also done in two ways; (4) casting on with picots.</p> + +<p>(1) <b>Crossed casting on with a single thread</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_342">342</a>). +Lay the thread over your fingers as though you were beginning +a chain of plain stitches, fig. <a href="./chapter_9.html#fig_403">403</a>, leaving a long end, sufficient +to make the number of stitches required, lying within the palm +of the hand. Put the needle in from below, into the loop on +<a name="Page_174" id="Page_174"></a>the thumb, and pass it from right to left under that part of +the thread which lies between the forefinger and the thumb. +Then bring the thread through the loop on the thumb, draw +the thumb out, and lay the loop on the needle. In making the +next stitches, lay the thread over the thumb, so that the end +lies outside. Put in the needle under the front thread and +complete the stitch as before. This method of casting on is +generally done over two needles, one of them being drawn out +before the knitting-off is begun, to ensure a loose edge.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/353.jpg" alt="FIG. 342. CROSSED CASTING ON WITH A SINGLE THREAD." title="" /> +<a name="fig_342" id="fig_342"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 342. Crossed casting on with a single thread.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Crossed casting on with a threefold thread.</b>—This method +is similar to the last, only that the thread is taken threefold +and is drawn by the needle through the loop, which is formed +at the bend of the thread. Then you pass the single thread +over the left hand, and the triple one over the thumb, as shown +<a name="Page_175" id="Page_175"></a>in fig. <a href="#fig_342">342</a>, and make the same stitches, as above. The threefold +thread makes a broad chain at the bottom of the loops.</p> + +<p><b>Double crossed casting on</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_343">343</a>).—This can be done +either with a single or a threefold thread. In our drawing it is +done with the latter. The first stitch is made as we have already +described, only that you have to keep the loop on your thumb, +put the needle into it a second time, lay hold of the thread behind, +cast on a second stitch, and then only, withdraw your thumb. +In this manner two loops are made at once, close together.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/354.jpg" alt="FIG. 343. DOUBLE CROSSED CASTING ON." title="" /> +<a name="fig_343" id="fig_343"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 343. Double crossed casting on.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Crossed casting on, forming a chain</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_344">344</a>.)—Begin by +making one such stitch, as we have described in fig. <a href="#fig_341">341</a>; for +the second and following stitches, bring the end of the thread +to the inside of the palm of the hand, so that it lies between +the thumb and the forefinger.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/355.jpg" alt="FIG. 344. CROSSED CASTING ON, FORMING A CHAIN." title="" /> +<a name="fig_344" id="fig_344"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 344. Crossed casting on, forming a chain.</span> +</div> + +<p>(2) <b>Knitting on stitches</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_345">345</a>).—Begin with a plain +crossed stitch; then take the thread and the needle in the left +hand, a second needle in the right, and catch it into the stitch +on the left needle, lay the thread under the right needle and +draw it through in a loop, through the loop on the left needle. +Then transfer it as a fresh stitch to the left needle; catch the +needle into this second stitch, and draw the thread through +it, to form the third, and so on.</p> + +<p>This method of casting on is used for articles, that are +to have a double edge, (see figs. <a href="#fig_355">355</a>, <a href="#fig_356">356</a>), because stitches, +made in this way, are easier to pick up than the tighter ones; +<a name="Page_176" id="Page_176"></a>but it should not be used, where it will form the actual edge, +as the loops are always too open.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/356.jpg" alt="FIG. 345. KNITTING ON STITCHES." title="" /> +<a name="fig_345" id="fig_345"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 345. Knitting on stitches.</span> +</div> + +<p>(3) <b>Casting on with slip loops</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_346">346</a>).—Begin by casting +on one loop in the ordinary way, next, lay the thread, as in +German knitting, over the left hand, twisting it once only +round the forefinger, then put the needle in, upwards from +below, under the thread that lies on the outside of the forefinger; +draw out the finger from the loop, put the loop on the +needle to the right, take the thread on the forefinger again, +and so on.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/357.jpg" alt="FIG. 346. CASTING ON WITH SLIP LOOPS." title="" /> +<a name="fig_346" id="fig_346"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 346. Casting on with slip loops.</span> +</div><p><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177"></a></p> + +<p><b>Casting on with double slip loops</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_347">347</a>).—Begin by +casting on a stitch in the ordinary way, then lay the thread +over the forefinger, the reverse way, so that it crosses between, +not outside the hand and the body of the knitter. Pass the +needle upwards from below, under the inside thread, and slip +this thread as a loop on to the needle. Continue to cast on, +inserting the needle under the front and back threads alternately. +This method is specially suitable for open patterns, where +you have to increase several times, in succession.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/358.jpg" alt="FIG. 347. CASTING ON WITH DOUBLE SLIP LOOPS." title="" /> +<a name="fig_347" id="fig_347"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 347. Casting on with double slip loops.</span> +</div> + +<p>(4) <b>Casting on with picots</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_348">348</a>).—Cast on two stitches +in the ordinary way and turn the work. Lay the thread +<a name="Page_178" id="Page_178"></a>over the needle, put the needle into the first stitch, from right +to left, and slip it on to the right needle, knit off the second +stitch plain, and draw the slipped one over it.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/359.jpg" alt="FIG. 348. CASTING ON WITH PICOTS." title="" /> +<a name="fig_348" id="fig_348"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 348. Casting on with picots.</span> +</div> + +<p>Cast on as many stitches as you want in this manner and +then pick up the picots thus formed, with an auxiliary needle, +and knit them off like ordinary stitches.</p> + +<p>This method of casting on may be varied thus in the following +manner: having cast on the stitches as in fig. <a href="#fig_348">348</a>, throw +the thread over the needle and knit two stitches together.</p> + +<p><b><a name="Plain_stitch" id="Plain_stitch"></a>Plain stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_349">349</a>).—This is the easiest stitch and the +first which a knitter has to learn. It is executed as follows: +Put the right-hand needle in, upwards from below, under +the front part of the first stitch on the left-hand needle, lay +<a name="Page_179" id="Page_179"></a>the thread from right to left under the needle, draw it through +the loop, and drop the loop off the left needle.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/360.jpg" alt="FIG. 349. PLAIN STITCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_349" id="fig_349"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 349. Plain stitch.</span> +</div> + +<p>Plain knitting is employed wherever a perfectly smooth, +even surface is required. It looks quite differently on the +wrong side from what it does on the right where it presents +the appearance of vertical rows of plaiting.</p> + +<p><b>Back, or seam-stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_350">350</a>).—You may intentionally +knit the wrong side of plain knitting. This is called purling and +is done, in the following way: lay the thread over the left +needle, and put the right one, downwards from above, behind +the thread, into the loop on the left needle, lay the thread +upwards from below, over the right needle, draw it through +the loop, and drop the loop off the left needle. This stitch is +<a name="Page_180" id="Page_180"></a>used in knitting patterns, and for marking horizontal lines in +smooth surfaces, such as the seam of a stocking, for instance.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/361.jpg" alt="FIG. 350. BACK OR SEAM-STITCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_350" id="fig_350"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 350. Back or seam-stitch.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Plain stitch taken from behind</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_351">351</a>).—Put the +needle in from right to left, under the back part of the stitch; +leave the thread behind the needle, then pass it from right to +left over the needle and draw it through the stitch.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/362.jpg" alt="FIG. 351. PLAIN STITCH TAKEN FROM BEHIND." title="" /> +<a name="fig_351" id="fig_351"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 351. Plain stitch taken from behind.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Back, or seam-stitch taken from behind</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_352">352</a>).—Put +the needle into the second part of the stitch, upwards from +below, and knit it as a back or seam-stitch.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/363.jpg" alt="FIG. 352. BACK OR SEAM-STITCH TAKEN FROM BEHIND." title="" /> +<a name="fig_352" id="fig_352"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 352. Back or seam-stitch taken from behind.</span> +</div> + +<p>In plain stitch, taken from behind, the two threads of the +loop are crossed, instead of lying side by side, as they do in +plain knitting.</p> + +<p>Back-stitch taken from behind, is only used for certain +open-work patterns.</p> + +<p><b>Overs</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_353">353</a>).—These form holes in plain knitting, and +are used for open-work patterns and for increasing.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/364.jpg" alt="FIG. 353. OVERS." title="" /> +<a name="fig_353" id="fig_353"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 353. Overs.</span> +</div> + +<p>To make an over, lay the thread over the needle, and in +the next row, knit this loop like any other stitch.</p> + +<p>Each over adds one to the existing number of stitches. In +cases, therefore, where the number is to remain the same, you +have to make as many intakes as overs. Overs can only be +used in conjunction with other stitches.</p> + +<p><b>Knot stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_354">354</a>).—This forms a raised spot in plain +knitting and is executed as follows: knit 1, and leave it on the +left-hand needle; put the stitch you have made with the right +needle back on the left, and knit it off. Make 4 or 5 similar +stitches, all issuing from the same stitch on the left needle, so +that you have 4 or 5 loops on the right needle; then drop the +stitch off the left needle, and pull the 4 first loops over the last one.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/365.jpg" alt="FIG. 354. KNOT STITCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_354" id="fig_354"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 354. Knot stitch.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Cable or chain stitch</b>.—Chain stitches are used for strengthening +and equalizing the edges of articles that are made in +stripes. They can be made in two ways; either, you knit off all +the stitches on one needle, turn the work, put the needle into +the first stitch, as if you were going to knit it from the back, +and take it off the left needle without knitting it, the thread +to lie behind the needle; or, you knit off all the stitches on +one needle, turn the work, and knit off the first stitch.</p><p><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181"></a></p> + +<p><b>The names of the stitches</b>.—Out of the stitches that have +been already described, other stitches are formed, which, as +they are frequently alluded to in knitting directions, we shall +here enumerate, explaining all the terms, usually employed +in such directions.</p> + +<p><b>Over, or increase.</b>—Explained in fig. <a href="#fig_353">353</a>. +Throwing the thread once over the right needle.</p> + +<p><b>Double over, or two increases.</b>—Throwing the thread +twice over the needle.</p> + +<p><b>Plain intake.</b>—Knitting two stitches together plain. This +is done when the intake is to lie from left to right.</p> + +<p><b>Purled intake.</b>—Purling two stitches together. This is +done to make the stitches, that are knitted together, visible; or +in the case of a piece of work composed of stripes, on the +wrong side, when the intake is to lean to the right, on the +right side.</p> + +<p><b>Plain decrease, taken from behind.</b>—Knitting off two +stitches together, plain from behind. This is done when the +intake is to lie to the left.</p> + +<p><b>Purled decrease, taken from behind.</b>—Purling two +stitches together, from behind. This is done when, in articles +composed of stripes, the decrease has to be made on the wrong +side, and is to lie to the left on the right side.</p> + +<p><b>Pulling over.</b>—Slipping a stitch from the left needle to +the right without knitting it, knitting the next plain, and +pulling the slipped stitch over the knitted one. In this manner +two or three stitches can be pulled over the knitted one.</p> + +<p><b>Casting off.</b>—To prevent the stitches from unravelling +they are finished off in the following manner. Knit off two +plain, pull the first over the second and drop it, so that +only one remains on the needle. Knit the next stitch, and pull +the one behind over it, and so on. This chain of stitches, must +neither be too tight, nor too loose, but just as elastic as the +rest of the work.</p> + +<p><b>Materials for stockings.</b>—Stockings can be made of silk, +wool or cotton, entirely according to fancy, but for coloured +stockings, we cannot too highly recommend the D.M.C knit<a name="Page_182" id="Page_182"></a>ting +cottons, as more durable, in all respects, than either silk +or wool. They are manufactured in 360 different shades, +whereas, wool and silk are only to be had in a very limited +assortment of colours. For hand-knit stockings, Nos. 25, 30, +35<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> are the best, for machine-knit, Nos. 40 and 50.</p> + +<p><b><a name="Stocking_knitting" id="Stocking_knitting"></a>Stocking knitting.</b>—A stocking consists of five parts: +(1) the top, (2) the knee, (3) the leg, (4) the heel, (5) the foot.</p> + +<p>(1). The top may be either ribbed, or knitted in an openwork +stitch of same kind or with a double-toothed edge, +fig. <a href="#fig_356">356</a>.</p> + +<p>(2) and (3). The knee, and the leg down to the heel, are +generally plain knitted; it is only children's stockings that are +fancy knitted.</p> + +<p>(4). The heel, is worked as straight knitting backwards +and forwards; by knitting first one row plain and then turning +back and knitting it purl. It is shaped to the foot by the intakes +at the top.</p> + +<p>(5). The foot is knitted plain, with intakes from the heel +onwards, to get rid of the superfluous stitches. Then knit a +plain piece, without a seam-stitch, till you begin to decrease +for the toe, which can be worked in several different ways.</p> + +<p>To ensure the right proportions between the several parts +of a stocking, the following directions should be attended to. +An ornamental top must never be taken into account, in measuring +the length of the leg. When the top part is finished, +you make the seam, at the beginning of the first needle of the +round, of one, or two purled stitches, or sometimes, a narrow +pattern of purled stitches. This marks the middle of the +stocking. For ordinary-sized stockings, knit plain from the top-band, +till the knitted piece, forms a square.</p> + +<p>For stockings that are to cover the knee, knit half as much +again, that is one and a half times the width of the stocking. +This brings you to the calf of the leg. Pull the third stitch +after the seam, over the second, and knit together the two last +but one before the seam. There should be 12 rounds between +each of the first 3 or 4 intakes, and after that 8, until this part +<a name="Page_183" id="Page_183"></a>is one and a half times the width of the knee in length, and a +quarter narrower.</p> + +<p>For the ankle, knit a plain piece, half the width of the knee +in length, without intakes.</p> + +<p>For the heel, count the stitches on the four needles, exclusive +of the seam, and put two stitches more than the quarter +of the whole number on to the needles, to the right and left +of the seam.</p> + +<p>For a heel to fit well, it should be as long as it is wide. In +order that they should wear better, the heel and the toe are +often knitted with double thread. Coton à feutrer D.M.C<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> is +made expressly for that purpose, and should be wound round +the thread of which the whole stocking is made. For the +instep, the part between the heel and toe, you must go on +decreasing from the heel, until you have 2 stitches less on +each needle, than you had at the ankle. Then knit the plain +part of the foot, which should be as wide as the ankle, after +which proceed to decrease for the toe, which should be a +quarter the length of the whole foot. In spite of this careful +subdivision, it is always well to count the stitches, to ensure +perfect regularity. The number of stitches cast on, at the +outset, for the same-sized stockings, must depend upon the size +of the wool or cotton; we can only give the numbers approximately. +Our calculation is based on the use of 5 needles; the +given number has therefore to be cast on four times.</p> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='center'>Coton à tricoter D.M.C +Numbers to be used</td> +<td align='center'>Number of stitches to be cast on one needle for stocking ordinary-sized</td> +<td align='center'>Number of stitches to be cast on one needle for stockings that are to reach above the knee</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>25</td><td align='center'>32</td><td align='center'>36</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>30</td><td align='center'>34</td><td align='center'>38</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>35</td><td align='center'>36</td><td align='center'>42</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>40</td><td align='center'>40</td><td align='center'>46</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>50</td><td align='center'>42</td><td align='center'>50</td></tr> +</table></div> + + + +<p><b><a name="Scalloped_edge" id="Scalloped_edge"></a>Scalloped edge</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_355">355</a> and <a href="#fig_356">356</a>).—This is the simplest +<a name="Page_184" id="Page_184"></a>and strongest edge you can have for a stocking, and is called +the cat's-teeth edge.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="fig_355" id="fig_355"></a><a name="fig_356" id="fig_356"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 200px;"> +<img src="images/366.jpg" alt="FIG. 355. +SCALLOPED STOCKING EDGE. +EDGE OPEN." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 355. +Scalloped stocking edge. +Edge open.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 200px;"> +<img src="images/367.jpg" alt="FIG. 356. +SCALLOPED STOCKING EDGE. +EDGE FOLDED TOGETHER." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 356. +Scalloped stocking edge. +Edge folded together.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Having cast on the stitches, knit 6 to 10 rounds plain, +according to the size of the cotton, then one round of alternate +intakes and overs. Knit as many plain rounds as before, and +with a sixth needle take up as many of the cast on stitches, +as you have stitches on one of the upper needles. Turn this +needle inwards, and +place it against the outside +needle and knit off +both needles together. +See that you knit the +corresponding stitches +off together, otherwise +the scallops that form +the edge will be crooked.</p> + +<p><b><a name="Common_heel" id="Common_heel"></a>Common heel</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_357">357</a>).—This is the +simplest form of heel, +and can be knitted +either with or without +an outside seam. Divide +the stitches into four, +and put two more on +each of the heel needles than on the others, then make, according +to the size of the cotton, from 15 to 20 seams; knit +<a name="Page_185" id="Page_185"></a>off all the stitches on the right needle and a third of those on +the left. Supposing that you have 24 stitches, knit off 8, then +slip 1, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over, knit 2 plain, +turn the work, slip the first, and purl the next 8 stitches of the +second needle; purl the 9th and 10th together, purl 2, turn +the work to the right side, and slip the first stitch on to the +right needle. By means of these successive intakes after the 8 +stitches, the knitting forms a plait on both sides of the heel.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/368.jpg" alt="FIG. 357. COMMON HEEL." title="" /> +<a name="fig_357" id="fig_357"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 357. Common heel.</span> +</div> + +<p>In all heels that are made after this pattern, the intakes +must begin on the right side and the last one must be made +on the wrong, so that once the heel is finished and the work +turned, you can go on knitting plain.</p> + +<p>When you have finished the stitches of the two heel needles +up to the outside seams, take up the stitches on the sides of +the heel with a spare needle and knit them on to the left heel +needle, then knit the stitches reserved for the instep, take up +the stitches on the right side of the heel again and knit them +on to the fourth needle.</p> + +<p>In the next round, knit all the stitches of the first needle plain, +excepting the 4 last; +knit the first and second +of these together and +the two last plain. Knit +the two first stitches of +the fourth needle plain, +slip the third, knit the +fourth and pull the +slipped stitch over.</p> + +<p><b>Heel in steps</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_358">358</a>).—After dividing +the stitches, make from +12 to 14 seams. Then +knit as many stitches +of the first needle as +you have seams at the +side; turn the work, +and begin the needle with the seam you made first. Knit off +as many stitches from the second needle as from the first.<a name="Page_186" id="Page_186"></a> +Make the same number of seams, as for the first part of the +heel. When the seams are finished, take up the chain stitches, +on both sides, make a decrease by knitting the last stitch of +the small part and the first of the large, together; knit two; +turn the work; slip the first stitch, knit to the second side, +and decrease as in the +first part.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/369.jpg" alt="FIG. 358. HEEL IN STEPS." title="" /> +<a name="fig_358" id="fig_358"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 358. Heel in steps.</span> +</div> + +<p>When you have decreased +all the stitches +up to the last, take up +the slipped stitches of +the first part, and begin +the intakes for the instep +in the ordinary way.</p> + +<p>There is not more +work in this pattern of +heel than in any other; +it fits closely and consequently +wears well.</p> + +<p><b>Plain heel</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_359">359</a> +and <a href="#fig_360">360</a>).—Those who +are not fond of purling +will appreciate this and +the following pattern for +a plain heel.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/370.jpg" alt="FIG. 359. PLAIN HEEL." title="" /> +<a name="fig_359" id="fig_359"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 359. Plain heel.</span> +</div> + +<p>Knit off the stitches +of the first needle +after the seam; then +on to two spare needles, +cast on, 8 more stitches +than you had on one +needle after dividing +the stitches; put the +stitches of the third and +fourth needles together +and knit the first round +plain.</p> + +<p>2nd round—knit together the 1st and 2nd, and the 9th +<a name="Page_187" id="Page_187"></a>and 10th of the first auxiliary needle; and the 10th and 9th +and 2nd and 1st of the second.</p> + +<p>3rd round—plain.</p> + +<p>4th round—knit together the 1st and 2nd and the 7th +and 8th of the first needle.</p> + +<p>5th round—plain.</p> + +<p>6th round—knit together the 1st and 2nd and the 5th +and 6th of the first auxiliary needle; and the 6th and 7th +and the last but one and the last, of the second.</p> + +<p>7th, 10th, 11th, 13th, 14th, 16th, 17th, 19th, 20th +rounds all plain.</p> + +<p>8th round—knit together the 1st and 2nd, and the 3rd +and 4th of the first auxiliary needle, and the 4th and 3rd, +and the last stitch but one and the last, of the second.</p> + +<p>9th round—After the two last intakes, purl together the +4th and 3rd stitches before the end of the 1st and 3rd needle, +and the 3rd and 4th at the beginning of the 2nd and 4th +needles.</p> + +<p>12th, 15th, and 18th rounds—Decrease, the same as in the +9th round.</p> + +<p>21st round—knit 2 plain, at the beginning of the 1st and +3rd needles; knit the next 2 together; knit together the 4th +and 3rd, before the end of the 2nd and 4th needles; knit the +last stitches plain; go on decreasing in this way until the +purled stitches meet. After the plain round over the intakes, +add four plain rounds, divide the stitches that remain for the +sole, on two needles and cast off on the wrong side.</p> + +<p>Now take up the auxiliary stitches, and in the first 3 plain +rounds, knit together the last and the first of the 1st and 2nd +needles, and the last and the first of the 3rd and 4th.</p> + +<p>With the rest of the extra stitches make purled intakes, +knitting two plain rounds after each round with an intake.</p> + +<p>For the other kind of plain heel also (fig. <a href="#fig_360">360</a>), auxiliary +stitches are required. Supposing that you have 20 stitches on +each needle, you must cast on 28 stitches on to each auxiliary +needle; knit together the 4th and 3rd stitches at the end of +the 1st and 3rd needles, and the 3rd and 4th of the 2nd and +3rd needles, so that you may have 4 plain stitches between +<a name="Page_188" id="Page_188"></a>both intakes. Go on decreasing, knitting 2 plain rounds after +each round with an intake, until you have 6 stitches left on +each needle. Then knit together the first and last stitches of +each needle, one plain round over it, and finish with a chain +on the wrong side of the heel. Then take up the auxiliary +stitches and knit the instep.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/371.jpg" alt="FIG. 360. HEEL KNITTED ON THE RIGHT SIDE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_360" id="fig_360"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 360. Heel knitted on the right side.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Italian stocking</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_361">361</a>).—The heel, sole and toe of a +stocking always wear out before the instep. The Italians and +Greeks economise time and material and facilitate the renewal +of those parts that wear out, by knitting the upper part of the +foot in two pieces. After knitting the heel in on or other of +the above ways, work the foot as straight knitting with the +two upper needles only, until you have the necessary length. +Then knit the underneath part separately, in the same way. +You must keep a chain along all edges and a narrow seam +of one or two stitches. In the sole, which you make after finishing +the upper part, your intakes must come directly after and +before the seam. When you have got the same number of +rounds in each piece, join them together and begin the toe.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/372.jpg" alt="FIG. 361. ITALIAN STOCKING." title="" /> +<a name="fig_361" id="fig_361"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 361. Italian stocking.</span> +</div> + +<p>Sew up the slits left open on either side, with a needle and +thread taking care to fit the corresponding stitches together.</p> + +<p>In this manner, when one part wears out, you have only to +<a name="Page_189" id="Page_189"></a>unpick these side-seams and re-sole or re-heel the stocking as +the case may be.</p> + +<p><b><a name="Toe" id="Toe"></a>Toe</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_362">362</a>).—To begin as before, with the simplest and +most ordinary way of making this part of the stocking, divide +the stitches equally on to the 4 needles; knit together the 4th +and 3rd stitches before the end of the 1st and 3rd needles, +knit the 2 last and 2 first stitches of the 2nd and 4th needles +plain, and make an intake by +slipping the 3rd stitch, knitting +the 4th, and pulling the +slipped stitch over. Begin by +knitting 2 plain rounds after +each of the first 4 rounds with +an intake, and afterwards only +one. When you have only 4 +stitches left on each needle, +collect them on two, and knit +them together, two and two, +on the wrong side of the +stocking.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/373.jpg" alt="FIG. 362. TOE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_362" id="fig_362"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 362. Toe.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Toe</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_363">363</a>).—Here, before +beginning to decrease, +divide the stitches by 8, 10, or +12. Supposing that they have +been divided by 10, knit 8 +plain; knit the 9th and 10th +together, 8 plain, knit two +together, and so on, the whole +way round. Then knit as +many plain rounds as there +are plain stitches between +2 intakes. In the next rounds +with intakes, you will have +one stitch less between each +intake, in the second therefore, there should be 7 plain stitches +between each intake, and you knit 7 plain rounds; and so +on to the 7th round, when 2 stitches will remain, followed +by 2 plain rounds; when there are only 4 stitches left on +<a name="Page_190" id="Page_190"></a>the needles, turn them in to the wrong side of the stocking, +and finish off with a chain.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/374.jpg" alt="FIG. 363. TOE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_363" id="fig_363"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 363. Toe.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Toe</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_364">364</a>).—Begin the intakes with the two first stitches +of each needle, by the slip and pull over process, knit one +plain round after each round with an intake. In the following +rounds, make the intake in the 2nd round with the 3rd and +4th stitches, in the 3rd, with the 5th and 6th stitches, in the 4th, +with the 7th and 8th stitches, +so that when finished the +intakes form a kind of spiral. +Finish off in the ordinary way.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/375.jpg" alt="FIG. 364. TOE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_364" id="fig_364"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 364. Toe.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Toe</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_365">365</a>).—We will +describe one other kind of toe, +quite as shapely and easy to +make as the others.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/376.jpg" alt="FIG. 365. TOE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_365" id="fig_365"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 365. Toe.</span> +</div> + +<p>1st round—purl the first +2 stitches on each needle together.</p> + +<p>2nd and 3rd, 5th and 6th, +8th and 9th, 11th and 12th, +14th and 15th, 17th and 18th +rounds—plain.</p> + +<p>4th round—1 plain, 1 +intake with the 2nd and 3rd +stitches, and with the last 2 +on each needle.</p> + +<p>7th round—knit the 2 first +plain, make 1 intake with the +3rd and 4th stitches, and 1 +with the 2 last.</p> + +<p>In each of the next rounds +with intakes, knit 1 plain stitch +more.</p> + +<p>When the two seams meet, +pull the last stitch on each needle over the first of the next; +knit the stitches between the intakes plain. Continue to decrease +in this manner until the last stitches are reached.</p> + +<p><b><a name="Mending_knitting" id="Mending_knitting"></a>Mending knitting</b>.—Knitted articles are repaired by +<a name="Page_191" id="Page_191"></a>reconstructing the web with a needle and thread. When +the stitches are not actually broken, they can be strengthened +by new ones made over them, by means of a needle +and thread.</p> + +<p><b>Materials for darning stockings.</b>—The thread used for +darning a stocking should be a little finer than that of which it +is made. Coton à repriser D.M.C<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> is the best, for as it consists +of several strands it can be subdivided as occasion requires.</p> + +<p><b>Strengthening the stitches</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_366">366</a> and <a href="#fig_367">367</a>).—This +can be done in two ways. In fig. <a href="#fig_366">366</a>, the thread is brought +out between two horizontal bars, passed upwards over a perpendicular +bar, put in by the side of the same and brought +out between the next horizontal bars.</p> + +<p>Work the second row of stitches backwards; take up two +threads on the left, pass downwards to the right, over one +thread, take up the thread you passed over, and so on.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/377.jpg" alt="FIG. 366. +STRENGTHENING THE LOOPS. +FIRST WAY." title="" /> +<a name="fig_366" id="fig_366"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 366. +Strengthening the loops. +First way.</span> +</div> + +<p>The other way, fig. <a href="#fig_367">367</a>, is, when you have brought out +your needle, to carry it over one thread to the right and +upwards over two, take up the next two threads on the +left, pass downwards over two horizontal threads, and over one +thread to the right, and put in the needle where it first came +out; then working from right to left, take up two threads, pass +over one to the right, and downwards over two horizontal ones, +<a name="Page_192" id="Page_192"></a>and so on. In the next row, hold your work, the finished part +uppermost, carry the needle downwards over one horizontal +thread, bring it out between two threads that lie separately +and take it downwards again over two horizontal threads, pick +up two threads, working from right to left, pass upwards over +two threads and over one to the right, take up two to the left, +and so on.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/378.jpg" alt="FIG. 367. +STRENGTHENING THE LOOPS. +SECOND WAY." title="" /> +<a name="fig_367" id="fig_367"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 367. +Strengthening the loops. +Second way.</span> +</div> + + +<p><b>Repairing plain knitting</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_368">368</a>).—When a broken +piece of stocking web requires to be replaced by new, draw +the new and the old pieces together with a needle and thread, +using the same thread the stocking is made of.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/379.jpg" alt="FIG. 368. REPAIRING PLAIN KNITTING." title="" /> +<a name="fig_368" id="fig_368"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 368. Repairing plain knitting.</span> +</div> + +<p>For this purpose, you must clear the loops, by ravelling +them out top and bottom, and slip them on to knitting needles. +The loops that are to be connected must lie exactly opposite +to each other. Enter your threaded needle upwards from below +through the first disengaged upper loop, and slip it off the +knitting needle, then enter the needle, downwards from above +through the first lower loop, and upwards from below through +the next, and draw out just enough thread to make the new +loop the same size as the old ones. Then enter the needle, +downwards from above, through the same upper loop you +took up before, taking up also the one next to it, and passing +your needle through it from underneath; draw out the thread +to form the new loop and descend again to the next, and so on.</p> + +<p><b>Repairing purled knitting</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_369">369</a>).—To repair ribbed +surfaces consisting of alternate rows of plain and purl, proceed +as follows: hold the article so that the row of purled stitches +is exactly opposite the upper part. Enter your needle upwards +<a name="Page_193" id="Page_193"></a>from below, through the first loop of the upper part; join the +two lower loops together as in fig. <a href="#fig_368">368</a>; carry the needle +upwards again, and enter it upwards from below through the +first loop of the upper part and downwards from above, +through the loop next it. Join the lower loops again, as in plain +knitting.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/380.jpg" alt="FIG. 369. REPAIRING PURLED KNITTING." title="" /> +<a name="fig_369" id="fig_369"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 369. Repairing purled knitting.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Disengaging the loops for darning</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_370">370</a>).—Where +the threads are broken, new loops +have to be made, and the broken +ones ravelled out and cut, so that +the horizontal loops may stand out +clear and distinct. Cut the threads +on the vertical sides so that the +loops form an edge and the hole is +square, clear two or four loops in +the corners of the hole, fold them +in and fasten them off at the back +by a stitch or two. The darns we +are next going to describe should be +made upon a ball to prevent drawing the threads too tightly.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/381.jpg" alt="FIG. 370. DISENGAGING THE LOOPS +FOR DARNING." title="" /> +<a name="fig_370" id="fig_370"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 370. Disengaging the loops +for darning.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Darning on threads stretched horizontally</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_371">371</a> and +<a href="#fig_372">372</a>).—Carry a horizontal thread across on the wrong side, in +the place of each broken thread, securing it in the sound part +of the stocking, about two threads from the edge of the hole.<a name="Page_194" id="Page_194"></a> +When you have made this foundation, put the needle in on +the right side near the stitch that is nearest to the sound part +on the left, fig. <a href="#fig_371">371</a>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_371" id="fig_371"></a><a name="fig_372" id="fig_372"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/382.jpg" alt="FIG. 371. +DARNING ON THREADS STRETCHED +HORIZONTALLY. +POSITION OF THE HORIZONTAL THREADS." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 371. +Darning on threads stretched +horizontally. +Position of the horizontal threads.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/383.jpg" alt="FIG. 372. +DARNING ON THREADS STRETCHED +HORIZONTALLY. +HOW TO COVER THE HORIZONTAL THREADS." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 372. +Darning on threads stretched +horizontally. +How to cover the horizontal threads.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Then descending, pick up the nearest horizontal thread +from below, so that the working thread lies to the right of the +needle, and cover all the horizontal threads you have laid in +this manner.</p> + +<p>When you have taken up the last thread, pass the needle +downwards from above, through the nearest loop, and bring +it back through the one at which you entered it.</p> + +<p>To make, in reascending, the second half of the loop, you +must lay your thread to the right of the needle, fig. <a href="#fig_372">372</a>.</p> + +<p>When you have reached the last thread, enter the needle +at the loop, opposite the one it came out of.</p> + +<p><b>Darning on threads stretched obliquely across</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_373">373</a> +and <a href="#fig_374">374</a>).—As the illustration shows, you have to pick up all the +cleared loops, besides two or three on either side of the empty +space. The number and length of the threads which you carry +across, must correspond with those of the threads you have to +replace.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_373" id="fig_373"></a><a name="fig_374" id="fig_374"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/384.jpg" alt="FIG. 373. DARNING ON THREADS STRETCHED +OBLIQUELY ACROSS. +POSITION OF THE THREADS." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 373. Darning on threads stretched +obliquely across. +Position of the threads.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/385.jpg" alt="FIG. 374. DARNING ON THREADS STRETCHED +OBLIQUELY ACROSS. +HOW TO COVER THE OBLIQUE THREADS." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 374. Darning on threads stretched +obliquely across. +How to cover the oblique threads.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Fasten in, from the right side, a rather finer thread than the +one the original web is made of, and make a few stitches over +the existing ones, in the row you are about to complete.</p> + +<p>Enter the needle upwards from below, through the first +<a name="Page_195" id="Page_195"></a>disengaged loop, pass it under two threads issuing from one loop, +and then bring it +back again into +the same loop between +the two +slanting threads, +drawing it out +again upwards +from below, +through the next +loop, and so on. +The new loop +must be just equal +to the old ones in +size. Make in the +same manner as +at the beginning, +two or three stitches +at the end of +the row, within +the edge of the +hole. Work back +in a similar way, +with this difference +only, that +you turn your +work round.</p> + +<p><b><a name="Piqueacute_pattern" id="Piqueacute_pattern"></a>Piqué pattern</b> +(fig. <a href="#fig_375">375</a>).—The +following patterns +are suitable for +making counterpanes, +petticoats, +vests and other articles +of clothing. +Select a suitable +<a name="Page_196" id="Page_196"></a>number of Coton à tricoter D.M.C. Cast on a number of +stitches divisible by 7, and begin by 6 rows of 5 plain stitches +and 1 purled, taken from behind.</p> + +<p>7th row—purl from behind the 3rd of the 5 plain, and +knit 5 plain more and so on.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/386.jpg" alt="FIG. 375. PIQUÉ PATTERN." title="" /> +<a name="fig_375" id="fig_375"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 375. Piqué pattern.<br /> +Materials:</span> Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 30.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Piqué pattern</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_376">376</a>).—Cast on a number of stitches +divisible by 14.</p> + +<p>1st and 2nd row—* purl 7, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, +knit 1, purl 1, knit 1; repeat from *.</p> + +<p>3rd and 4th row—* knit 7, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, +purl 1, knit 1, purl 1; repeat from *.</p> + +<p>Repeat the whole from the 1st row.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/387.jpg" alt="FIG. 376. PIQUÉ PATTERN." title="" /> +<a name="fig_376" id="fig_376"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 376. Piqué pattern.<br /> +Materials:</span> Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 30, +or Coton pour crochet 4 fils D.M.C Nos. 4 to 20.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p><b>Piqué pattern</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_377">377</a>).—Cast on a number of stitches +divisible by 4.</p> + +<p>The 8 first +rows—knit 2, +purl 2.</p> + +<p>9th and 10th +row—knit 2 over +the 2 purled, purl +2 over the 2 knitted +of the 8th row.</p> + +<p>11th and 12th +rows—the same +as the first 8 +rows.</p> + +<p>13th and 14th +row—the same +as the 9th and +10th row.</p> + +<p>15th to the 23rd—the same as the first 8 rows.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/388.jpg" alt="FIG. 377. PIQUÉ PATTERN." title="" /> +<a name="fig_377" id="fig_377"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 377. Piqué pattern.<br /> +Materials:</span> The same as for fig. <a href="#fig_371">371</a>.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Stripes for counterpanes</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_378">378</a>).—This pattern is to be +worked in stripes, of two colours; we may here take occasion +to mention that in choosing two colours, one dark and one +light, for a piece of work, the dark cotton should always be +one or two numbers finer than the light, because the dark dyes +thicken the cotton more than the light ones do. The blue, red +<a name="Page_197" id="Page_197"></a>and dark brown dyes sink into the cotton more and cause it +to swell, whereas the lighter dyes do not affect its thickness.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a href="images/full_389.jpg"><img src="images/389.jpg" alt="FIG. 378. STRIPES FOR COUNTERPANES." title="" /></a> +<a name="fig_378" id="fig_378"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 378. Stripes for counterpanes.<br /> +Materials:</span> Coton à tricoter D.M.C No. 6, 8, 10 or 12.<br /> +<span class="smcap">Colours:</span> Rouge-Turc 321 and Gris-Tilleul 391.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p>Hence it comes, that for the stripes, here described, we +were obliged to take No. 8 of the red cotton and No. 6 of the +green, in order that the same number of stitches should make +the same length of stripe.</p> + +<p>Cast on 28 stitches:</p> + +<p>1st needle—slip 1, knit 2, over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, +purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2, knit 5, purl 2, +knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, +purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, +knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, over, knit 3, +1 chain stitch.</p> + +<p>2nd needle—wrong side: slip 1, purl 2, purl 2 together, +purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, +knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, +purl 1 from behind, knit 2, purl 5, knit 2, purl 1 from behind, +knit 1 from behind, knit 2 together, purl 2, 1 chain stitch.</p> + +<p>3rd needle—right side: slip 1, knit 2, over, knit 1, knit 1 +from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 +from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit<a name="Page_198" id="Page_198"></a> +1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl +1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit +1, over, knit 2, 1 chain stitch.</p> + +<p>4th needle—wrong side: slip 1, purl 2, purl 2 together, +purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, +knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 2, purl 5, knit 2, +purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, +knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, +purl 2 together, purl 2, 1 chain stitch.</p> + +<p>5th needle—on the right side: slip 1, knit 2, over, knit 1, +knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, +purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, +knit 1 from behind, purl 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 1 from behind, +purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, +knit 1, over, knit 2, 1 chain stitch.</p> + +<p>6th needle—on the wrong side: slip 1, purl 2, purl 2 +together, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from +behind, knit 2, purl 5, knit 2, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from +behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from +behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from +behind, purl 2 together, purl 2, 1 chain stitch.</p> + +<p>7th needle like the 5th, 8th needle like the 4th, 9th needle +like the 3rd, 10th needle like the 2nd, 11th needle like the 1st. +Five plain stitches form a zigzag in the middle of the stripe.</p> + +<p>Join the stripes with crochet stitches; of which several +kinds are described in the next chapter.</p> + +<p><b>Knitted square</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_379">379</a>).—Cast on 2 stitches on to each +of the 4 needles. Repeat always 3 times after the asterisk.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/390.jpg" alt="FIG. 379. KNITTED SQUARE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_379" id="fig_379"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 379. Knitted square.<br /> +Materials:</span> Coton à tricoter D.M.C No. 8 or Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 20.</span> +</div> + +<p>1st row—over, knit 1, over, knit 1 *.</p> + +<p>2nd row—knit 1, over, knit 1, over, knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>3rd row—knit 1, purl 1, over, knit 1, over, purl 2, knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>4th row—knit 1, purl 2, over, knit 1, over, purl 2, knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>5th row—knit 1, purl 3, over, knit 1, over, purl 3, knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>6th row—knit 1, purl 4, over, knit 1, over, purl 4, knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>7th row—knit 1, purl 5, over, knit 1, over, purl 5, knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>8th row—knit 1, purl 4, knit 2, over, knit 2, over, knit 1, +purl 4, knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>9th row—knit 1, purl 3, knit 4, over, knit 1, over, knit 4, +purl 3, knit 2 *.</p><p><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199"></a></p> + +<p>10th row—knit 1, purl 2, knit 6, over, knit 1, over, knit +6, purl 2, knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>11th row—knit 1, purl 1, knit 8, over, knit 1, over, knit +8, purl 1, knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>12th row—knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2 stitches (that is, +first knit off the second stitch plain and then the first), knit 1, +over, knit 1, over, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>13th row—knit 1, purl 3, knit 8, purl 1, over, knit 1, over, +purl 1, knit 8, purl 3, knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>14th row—knit 1, purl 4, knit 4, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, +over, knit 1, over, purl 2, knit 1, cross 2, knit 4, purl 4, knit 2 *.</p><p><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200"></a></p> + +<p>15th row—knit 1, purl 5, knit 6, purl 3, over, knit 1, over, +purl 3, knit 6, purl 5, knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>16th row—knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, +over, knit 1, over, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, +knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>17th row—knit 1, purl 3, knit 7, purl 5, over, knit 1, +over, purl 5, knit 7, purl 3, knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>18th row—knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, +knit 2, over, knit 1, over, knit 2, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit +5, purl 2, knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>19th row—knit 1, purl 1, knit 9, purl 3, knit 4, over, knit +1, over, knit 4, purl 3, knit 9, purl 1, knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>20th row—knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, +knit 6, over, knit 1, over, knit 6, purl 2, knit 1, cross 2, knit +5, purl 2, knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>21st row—knit 1, purl 3, knit 7, purl 1, knit 8, over, +knit 1, over, knit 8, purl 1, knit 7, purl 3, knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>22nd row—knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, +knit 6, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2, knit 1, over, +knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, +knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>23rd row—knit 1, purl 5, knit 3, purl 3, knit 7, purl 1, +over, knit 1, over, purl 1, knit 7, purl 3, knit 5, purl 5, knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>24th row—knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, +knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, over, knit 1, over, purl 2, knit +1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, +knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>25th row—knit 1, purl 3, knit 8, purl 5, knit 5, purl 3, +over, knit 1, over, purl 3, knit 5, purl 5, knit 5, purl 3, +knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>26th row—knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, +knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, over, knit 1, over, purl 4, +knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl +2, knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>27th round—knit 1, purl 1, knit 9, purl 3, knit 7, purl 5, +over, knit 1, over, purl 5, knit 7, purl 3, knit 9, purl 1, +knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>Finish the square with several rows of purl and a chain.</p><p><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201"></a></p> + +<p><b><a name="Plain_patent_knitting" id="Plain_patent_knitting"></a>Plain patent knitting, or brioche pattern</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_380">380</a>).—This +easy and extremely elastic stitch is used for all sorts of +articles of clothing, and is worked in two rows.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/391.jpg" alt="FIG. 380. PLAIN PATENT KNITTING, OR BRIOCHE PATTERN." title="" /> +<a name="fig_380" id="fig_380"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 380. Plain patent knitting, or brioche pattern.</span> +</div> + +<p>Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 3, with 4 extra +for the edge.</p> + +<p>1st row—slip 1, knit 1, * over, put the needle into the +next stitch, as if to purl it, +slip the stitch from the left +needle to the right, knit 1, +repeat from *, and finish +with 2 plain.</p> + +<p>2nd row—begin with 1 +chain, knit 1, knit the slipped +stitch and the over together, +over, slip the single +stitch that remains, from +the left needle to the right. +When the knitting is round, you purl and knit the intake +alternately.</p> + +<p><b>Double patent knitting</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_381">381</a>).—Begin on the wrong side.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/392.jpg" alt="FIG. 381. DOUBLE PATENT KNITTING." title="" /> +<a name="fig_381" id="fig_381"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 381. Double patent knitting.</span> +</div> + +<p>1st row—like the 1st row of fig. <a href="#fig_380">380</a>.</p> + +<p>2nd row—knit all the stitches, pass the over by putting +the needle into it from right to left.</p> + +<p>3rd row—like the second row of fig. <a href="#fig_380">380</a>. Now, it is only +the second and third row +that should alternate.</p> + +<p>Patent knitting has a +charming effect, done in +two colours, by working +them alternately backwards +and forwards.</p> + +<p><b>Plaited stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_382">382</a>).—This +kind of stitch is +worked in stripes, which, +for scarves, counterpanes, etc., are generally joined together +with stripes of plain knitting. For counterpanes, the lower +numbers of D.M.C cottons are most suitable, for smaller +articles the higher numbers. Plaited stitch is formed by cross<a name="Page_202" id="Page_202"></a>ing +the stitches, that is, by knitting the second stitch on the +left needle to begin with, and then the first stitch.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/393.jpg" alt="FIG. 382. PLAITED STITCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_382" id="fig_382"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 382. Plaited stitch.<br /> +Materials:</span> Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 8 to 20, or +Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30.</span> +</div> + +<p>If you cross two or more stitches in a few successive rows +without slipping them, the stitches will be seen by degrees, to +form a plait, as +shown in fig. <a href="#fig_382">382</a>.</p> + +<p>1st row—purl +4, cast on 3 stitches +on to an auxiliary +needle, and +leave it hanging +on the inside of the +work; knit 3 and +then knit the 3 +stitches on the +extra needle, purl +4.</p> + +<p>Then follow 5 +rows, in which +you purl all the purled stitches and knit all the plain ones. +After which 5 rows you repeat from the beginning.</p> + +<p><b><a name="Turkish_stitch" id="Turkish_stitch"></a>Turkish stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_383">383</a>).—1st row—slip 1, knit 1, over, +knit 2 together, over, +knit 2 together, and so +on to the 2 last stitches, +which you knit plain.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/394.jpg" alt="FIG. 383. TURKISH STITCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_383" id="fig_383"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 383. Turkish stitch.</span> +</div> + +<p>2nd row—slip the +1st, knit the 2nd and +the 3rd plain, the latter +having been formed +by the last over +on the 1st needle; 1 +over, 1 intake with the stitch and the over, 1 over, 1 intake +and so on.</p> + +<p><b>Turkish stitch with beads</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_384">384</a>).—String the beads +on the thread before you begin to knit. When you only use +one kind of bead, thread a needle with your knitting cotton +and run it through the thread on which the beads are strung.</p><p><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203"></a></p> + +<p>When you use several kinds, you must count and thread +them on in the required order. Beaded knitting is little in +request now, excepting for tobacco pouches and purses; for +which you should use Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 35, in any +colour, and small beads.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/395.jpg" alt="FIG. 384. TURKISH STITCH WITH BEADS." title="" /> +<a name="fig_384" id="fig_384"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 384. Turkish stitch with beads.</span> +</div> + +<p>For close beaded knitting, +plain stitch is the best. +Run the beads down singly +at each stitch. The beads +will fall on the reverse side +of the work so that in knitting +with beads, remember +that the reverse side will be +the right side.</p> + +<p>To work fig. <a href="#fig_384">384</a>, which represents the same stitch as +fig. <a href="#fig_383">383</a>, you run +down 2 or sometimes +3 beads before +knitting each +stitch.</p> + +<p><b>Knitting pattern +with two kinds of cotton</b> +(fig. <a href="#fig_385">385</a>).—A variety +of pretty +things, such as +open-work stockings, +shawls, curtains +etc. can be +made in this pattern, +worked with +two sizes of +thread. To give +it its full effect it +ought to be knitted with coarse needles, Nos. 10, 11, or 12.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/396.jpg" alt="FIG. 385. +KNITTING PATTERN WITH TWO KINDS OF COTTON." title="" /> +<a name="fig_385" id="fig_385"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 385. +Knitting pattern with two kinds of cotton.<br /> + +Materials:</span> Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 20 or 30, and Cordonnet +6 fils D.M.C No. 60 or 80, écru.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> +<p><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204"></a></p> +<p>Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 8. Take the +coarse thread to begin with.</p> + +<p>1st and 2nd row—purl.</p> + +<p>3rd row—purl 5, 2 overs, purl 5.</p> + +<p>4th row—with the fine thread: over, knit 2 together, slip +the next stitch of the previous row, drop the double over, slip +the next stitch, 1 over, knit 2 together.</p> + +<p>5th row—over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, and +so on.</p> + +<p>6th row—like the last. See that the 2 slipped stitches, in +the coarse thread, always come on the right side of the work.</p> + +<p>7th row—with +the coarse thread: +purl 4, purl the 2 +slipped stitches of +the 3rd row together, +then repeat +from the 1st row.</p> + +<p>See that in the +3rd row the 2 +overs come between +the stitches +formed by the 2 +stitches that were +formed by the 1st +over, and the 2 +stitches of the 6th +row, that were +knitted together.</p> + +<p><b><a name="Knitting_pattern" id="Knitting_pattern"></a>Knitting pattern with two kinds of thread</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_386">386</a>).—Cast +on a number of stitches that divides by 4.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/397.jpg" alt="FIG. 386. +KNITTING PATTERN WITH TWO KINDS OF THREAD." title="" /> +<a name="fig_386" id="fig_386"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 386. +Knitting pattern with two kinds of thread.<br /> +Materials:</span> Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 25 to 30 and +Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 60 or 80.</span> +</div> + +<p>1st row—with coarse thread: purl.</p> + +<p>2nd row—plain.</p> + +<p>3rd row—with fine thread: over, 1 intake, knit 2.</p> + +<p>4th row—plain.</p> + +<p>5th row—knit 1, over, 1 intake, knit 1.</p> + +<p>6th row—plain.</p> + +<p>7th row—knit 2, over, 1 intake.</p><p><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205"></a></p> + +<p>8th row—plain.</p> + +<p>9th and 10th row—with the coarse thread: purl.</p> + +<p>11th row—plain.</p> + +<p>12th row—with the fine thread: over, knit 2 together.</p> + +<p>13th row—plain.</p> + +<p>14th row—purl. Then repeat from the 1st row.</p> + +<p><b>Knitting pattern with dropped stitches</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_387">387</a>).—Cast +on a number of +stitches that divides +by 9.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/398.jpg" alt="FIG. 387. KNITTING PATTERN WITH DROPPED STITCHES." title="" /> +<a name="fig_387" id="fig_387"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 387. Knitting pattern with dropped stitches. +<br /> +Materials:</span> Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 16 to 30, +Coton pour crochet D.M.C Nos. 6 to 30, or Fil à pointer +D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30.</span> +</div> + +<p>1st row—over, +slip 3, knit +1, 2 overs, knit +3, 2 overs, knit 1.</p> + +<p>2nd row—knit +3, slip the +next, drop the +2 overs, knit 4, +turn the work, +purl 4, turn the +work, knit 4, +drop the 2 overs, +slip the next +stitch.</p> + +<p>3rd row—over, +slip 2, knit +1, pull slipped stitches over, drop the first of the 4 stitches, +knit first the stitch that follows the second double over, then +the 4 others plain, and lastly, take up the dropped stitch and +knit it plain on the right side of the work.</p> + +<p>4th row—knit plain.</p> + +<p>5th row—over, slip 3, over, knit 6.</p> + +<p>6th row—knit plain, and repeat from the 1st row.</p> + +<p><b>Knitting pattern</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_388">388</a>).—This pattern may be worked +with any one of the D.M.C cottons recommended for fig. <a href="#fig_387">387</a>, +but in the case of anything that is not wearing apparel, Fil à +pointer D.M.C will be found more suitable. Cast on a number +of stitches that divides by 18.</p><p><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206"></a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/399.jpg" alt="FIG. 388. KNITTING PATTERN." title="" /> +<a name="fig_388" id="fig_388"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 388. Knitting pattern.</span> +</div> + +<p>1st row—over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, +knit 2 together, over, knit 4, knit 2 together, over, slip 2, knit +1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3.</p> + +<p>Each row marked by an even number is to be knitted plain +throughout.</p> + +<p>3rd row—knit 1, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, +over, knit 2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped +stitch over, knit 2, knit 2 together, over, knit 3, over, slip 1, +knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1.</p> + +<p>5th row—knit 2, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, +over, knit 2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped +stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 5, over, knit 2 together.</p> + +<p>7th row—knit +3, over, knit 2 together, +over, knit 2 +together, over, knit +2 together, over, +slip 1, knit 1, pull +slipped stitch over, +knit 1, over, slip 1, +knit 1, pull slipped +stitch over, knit +1, knit 2 together, +over, knit 2.</p> + +<p>9th row—knit +4, over, knit 2 together, +over, knit 2 +together, over, knit +2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, +over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 2.</p> + +<p>11th row—knit 5, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, +over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, slip 1, +knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 6.</p> + +<p>13th row—knit 7, over, knit 2 together, over, purl 2 together, +over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 5.</p> + +<p>Repeat from the beginning.</p> + +<p><b>Knitting pattern</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_389">389</a>).—Cast on a number of stitches +that divides by 9.</p><p><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207"></a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/400.jpg" alt="FIG. 389. KNITTING PATTERN." title="" /> +<a name="fig_389" id="fig_389"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 389. Knitting pattern. +<br /> +Materials:</span> Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C, or Fil à pointer D.M.C</span> +</div> + +<p>1st row—2 overs, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, +knit 5, knit 2 together.</p> + +<p>2nd row—2 overs, slip the first over on to the right needle, +knit the second over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, +knit 3, knit 2 together.</p> + +<p>3rd row—2 overs, slip the overs of the two first rows on +to the right needle, +slip 1, knit 1, +pull slipped stitch +over, knit 1, knit +2 together.</p> + +<p>4th row—drop +the overs of +the 3 first rows +and knit 8 double +stitches, that is, +knit 1 stitch on the +over, slip it on to +the left needle +and knit it again.</p> + +<p>These 8 stitches +finished, make +2 overs, and slip +3, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over. Repeat from the beginning.</p> + +<p>Each time you repeat the 4th row, make double stitches on +4 overs, that is, on 4 threads.</p> + +<p><b>Knitting pattern</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_390">390</a>).—This pattern is suitable for +children's braces. For Coton à repriser D.M.C Nos. 6 to 20, +which is the best for the purpose, you will require fine bone +needles.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/401.jpg" alt="FIG. 390. KNITTING PATTERN." title="" /> +<a name="fig_390" id="fig_390"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 390. Knitting pattern.<br /> +Materials:</span> Coton à repriser D.M.C Nos. 5 to 20.</span> +</div> + +<p>Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 4.</p> + +<p>1st row—over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2.</p> + +<p>2nd row—knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch +over, knit 1.</p> + +<p>3rd row—knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over.</p> + +<p>4th row—slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2, +over.</p><p><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208"></a></p> + +<p>5th row—knit +2 together, +over, knit 2.</p> + +<p>6th row—knit +1, knit 2 +together, over, +knit 1.</p> + +<p>7th row—knit +2 together, +over, knit 2.</p> + +<p>8th row—knit +2, knit 2 +together, over.</p> + +<p>Repeat from +the beginning.</p> + +<p><b>Knitting pattern</b> +(fig. <a href="#fig_391">391</a>).—The patterns +shown in figs. +<a href="#fig_391">391</a> and <a href="#fig_392">392</a>, +are more particularly +useful +for comforters, +shawls, hoods +and the like. The +needles, which +may be either of +bone or steel +must match the +cotton in size; +steel needles are +the best for any +thing finer than +No. 16, of D.M.C +Coton à tricoter.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/402.jpg" alt="FIG. 391. KNITTING PATTERN." title="" /> +<a name="fig_391" id="fig_391"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 391. Knitting pattern.</span> +</div> + +<p>Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 3.</p> + +<p>1st row—over, slip 1 stitch on to the right needle, knit +the 2 next stitches, and draw the first stitch over them.</p> + +<p>2nd row and 4th row—knit plain.</p><p><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209"></a></p> + +<p>3rd row—like the first, but note, that the stitch that was +the third in the first row, will be the first here.</p> + +<p>Repeat from the beginning.</p> + +<p><b>Knitting pattern</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_392">392</a>).—Cast on a number of stitches +that divides by 3.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/403.jpg" alt="FIG. 392. KNITTING PATTERN." title="" /> +<a name="fig_392" id="fig_392"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 392. Knitting pattern.</span> +</div> + +<p>1st row—over, +knit the 2 first together, +draw the +3rd stitch through +the stitch formed +by the intake and +knit it off plain, +then knit the +stitch that was +pulled over it.</p> + +<p>2nd and 4th +row—knit plain.</p> + +<p>3rd row—like +the first; the third +stitch here is the +same that was +drawn through +the third stitch in +the first row.</p> + +<p><b>Knitting pattern</b> +(fig. <a href="#fig_393">393</a>).—Cast +on a number +of stitches that +divides by 14.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/404.jpg" alt="FIG. 393. KNITTING PATTERN." title="" /> +<a name="fig_393" id="fig_393"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 393. Knitting pattern.</span> +</div> + +<p>1st row—over, +knit 1, over, knit +2, purl 3, knit 3 +together, purl 3, +knit 2.</p> + +<p>2nd row—knit +5, purl 7, knit 2.</p> + +<p>3rd row—over, +knit 3, over, knit 2, purl 2, knit 3 together, purl 2, knit 2.</p><p><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210"></a></p> + +<p>4th row—knit 7, purl 5, knit 2.</p> + +<p>5th row—over, knit 5, over, knit 2, purl 1, knit 3 together, +purl 1, knit 2.</p> + +<p>6th row—knit 9, purl 3, knit 2.</p> + +<p>7th row—over, knit 7, over, knit 2, knit 3 together, knit 2.</p> + +<p>8th row—knit 11, purl 1, knit 1.</p> + +<p>Repeat from the beginning but in the reverse order, that is, +purling the knitted stitches and knitting the purled.</p> + +<p><b>Knitted lace</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_394">394</a>).—Knitted lace looks best, made +of a smooth, silky thread which shows up the pattern better +than any other material. As a knitted edging makes a very +pretty finish to almost any kind of knitted article, we give a +selection of some of the easiest and most effective patterns that +we consider suitable for the purpose.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/405.jpg" alt="FIG. 394. KNITTED LACE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_394" id="fig_394"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 394. Knitted lace. +<br /> +Materials:</span> Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 25 to 60, Fil à dentelle D.M.C +Nos. 25 to 70.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> +<p><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211"></a></p> +<p>Cast on 8 stitches.</p> + +<p>1st needle—1 chain, knit 2, over, knit 2 together, knit 2, +2 overs, knit 2.</p> + +<p>2nd needle—knit 3, purl 1, knit 4, over, knit 2 together, +1 chain.</p> + +<p>3rd needle—1 chain, knit 2, over, knit 2 together, knit 6.</p> + +<p>4th needle—2 chain, knit 5, over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>Repeat from the first needle.</p> + +<p><b>Knitted lace</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_395">395</a>).—Cast on 10 stitches.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"><a name="fig_395" id="fig_395"></a> +<img src="images/406.jpg" alt="FIG. 395. KNITTED LACE." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 395. Knitted lace.<br /> + +Materials:</span> Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50, Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p>1st needle—knit 2 together, 2 overs, knit 2 together, 2 +overs, knit 3, over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>2nd needle—1 chain, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 2, purl +1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1.</p> + +<p>3rd needle—knit 2 together, 2 overs, knit 2 together, 2 +overs, knit 4, over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>4th needle—1 chain, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 3, purl 1, +knit 2, purl 1, knit 1.</p> + +<p>5th needle—knit 2 together, 2 overs, knit 2 together, 2 +overs, knit 5, over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>6th needle—1 chain, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 4, purl +1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1.</p> + +<p>7th needle—knit 10, over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>8th needle—1 chain, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 8.</p> + +<p>9th needle—4 chain, 2 overs, knit 2 together, 2 overs, +knit 3, over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>Repeat from the second needle.</p> + +<p><b>Knitted lace</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_396">396</a>).—Cast on 13 stitches.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<a name="fig_396" id="fig_396"></a> +<img src="images/407.jpg" alt="FIG. 396. KNITTED LACE." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 396. Knitted lace.<br /> +Materials:</span> Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 30 to 70, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 20 +to 80, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 60.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p>1st needle—1 chain, purl 1, purl 2 together, over, knit 8, +1 chain.</p> + +<p>2nd needle—1 chain, knit 8, over, knit 2, knit 1 from +behind, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>3rd needle—1 chain, purl 2, over, purl 2 together, over, +knit 8, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>4th needle—1 chain, knit 8, over, knit 2 together, over, +knit 2, knit 1 from behind, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>5th needle—1 chain, purl 2, over, purl 2 together, over, +purl 2 together, over, knit 8, 1 chain.</p><p><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212"></a></p> + +<p>6th needle—1 chain, knit 8, over, knit 2 together, over, +knit 2 together, over, knit 2, knit 1 from behind, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>7th needle—1 chain, purl 2, over, purl 2 together, over, +purl 2 together, over, purl 2 together, over, knit 8, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>8th needle—1 chain, knit 8, over, knit 2 together, over, +knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, knit 1 from +behind, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>9th needle—1 chain, purl 2, over, purl 2 together, over, +purl 2 together, over, purl 2 together, over, purl 2 together, +over, knit 8, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>10th needle—8 chain, knit 10, knit 1 from behind, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>Repeat from the first needle.</p> + +<p><b>Knitted lace</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_397">397</a>).—Cast on 11 stitches.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/408.jpg" alt="FIG. 397. KNITTED LACE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_397" id="fig_397"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 397. Knitted lace. +<br /> +Materials:</span> Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 30 to 70, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 25 +to 70, Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 80.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p>1st needle—1 chain, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, over, +slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull +<a name="Page_213" id="Page_213"></a>slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, +knit 1, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>The 2nd, 4th, 6th, 8th, 10th, 12th, 14th, and 16th needle, +purled.</p> + +<p>3rd needle—1 chain, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 3, +over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, +pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch +over, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>5th needle—1 chain, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 5, over, +slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull +slipped stitch over, knit 1, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>7th needle—1 chain, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 7, over, +slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull +slipped stitch over, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>9th needle—1 chain, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, +over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 3, knit 2 together, +over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>11th needle—1 chain, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, +over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 +together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, +knit 1, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>13th needle—1 chain, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, +over, knit 3 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, +over, knit 2, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>15th needle—1 chain, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, +knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, 1 +chain.</p> + +<p>Repeat from the first needle.</p> + +<p><b>Rose for knitting</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_398">398</a>).—Repeat all the directions, +8 ending with the sign *, 7 times.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/409.jpg" alt="FIG. 398. ROSE FOR KNITTING" title="" /> +<a name="fig_398" id="fig_398"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 398. Rose for knitting. +<br /> +Materials:</span> Fil d'Alsace D.M.C in balls, No. 60 or 70, Fil à dentelle D.M.C +No. 40, 50 or 60.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p>Cast on 8 stitches, on to 4 needles, two on each; close the +ring.</p> + +<p>2nd round—8 times: over, knit 1.</p> + +<p>The 3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th, 11th, 13th, 15th, 17th, 19th, 21st, +23rd, and 25th round, knit plain.</p> + +<p>4th round—over, knit 3, over, knit 1 from behind *.</p> + +<p>6th round—over, knit 4, over, knit 1 from behind *.</p> + +<p>8th round—over, knit 7, over, knit 1 from behind *.</p><p><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214"></a></p> + +<p>10th round—over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, +knit 2 together, over, knit 1 *.</p> + +<p>12th round—over, knit 2 together, over, knit 3 *.</p> + +<p>14th round—over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 5 *.</p> + +<p>16th round—over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 7 *.</p> + +<p>18th round—over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 9 *.</p> + +<p>20th round—over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 11 *.</p> + +<p>22nd round—over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 13 *.</p> + +<p>24th round—over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 15 *.</p> + +<p>26th round—over, knit 3, over, knit 5, knit 2 together, +purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 5 *.</p> + +<p>27th round—knit 11, purl 1, knit 6 *.</p> + +<p>28th round—over, knit 5, over, knit 4, knit 2 together, +purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 4 *.</p> +<p><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215"></a></p> +<p>29th round—knit 12, purl 1, knit 5 *.</p> + +<p>30th round—over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped +stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, knit 3, +knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, +knit 3 *.</p> + +<p>31st round—knit 13, purl 1, knit 4 *.</p> + +<p>32nd round—over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped +stitches over, over, knit 3, over, knit 2, knit 2 together, purl +1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>33rd round—knit 14, purl 1, knit 3.</p> + +<p>34th round—over, knit 11, over, knit 1, knit 2 together, +purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1 *.</p> + +<p>35th round—knit 15, purl 1, knit 2.</p> + +<p>36th round—over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped +stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, +knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, +knit 1, over, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped +stitch over *.</p> + +<p>37th round—knit 16, purl 1, knit 1.</p> + +<p>38th round—over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped +stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped +stitches over, over, knit 3, over, knit 2, over, slip 2, knit 1, +pull slipped stitches over *.</p> + +<p>39th, 41st and 43rd round—knit plain.</p> + +<p>40th round—over, knit 4, knit 2 together, over, knit 5, over, +slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 4, over, knit 1.</p> + +<p>42nd round—knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch +over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, +pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, +over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, +over, knit 2 *.</p> + +<p>44th round—knit 2, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches +over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, +over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, +over, knit 3 *.</p> + +<p>Finish with three purled rounds.</p> + +<p><b>Knitted edging</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_399">399</a>).—Cast on 43 stitches.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/410.jpg" alt="FIG. 399. KNITTED EDGING." title="" /> +<a name="fig_399" id="fig_399"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 399. Knitted edging. +<br /> +Materials:</span> Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 40 to 70 +or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50, or +Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 25 to 60.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p>1st needle, make a chain of 2 stitches, over, knit 1 from +<a name="Page_216" id="Page_216"></a>behind, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, +knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, +knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit +2 together, over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from +behind, over, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull +slipped stitch over, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit +1 from behind, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit +1, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, +knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>2nd needle—1 chain, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, +knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 3, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, +purl 2, knit 1, purl 3, purl +1 from behind, knit 1, +purl 1 from behind, purl +14, purl 1 from behind, +purl 4.</p> + +<p>3rd needle—slip 2 +stitches over for a chain, +over, knit 1 from behind, +over, knit 1 from behind, +over, knit 3, over, slip 2, +knit 1, pull slipped stitches +over, over, knit 3, over, +slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped +stitches over, over, knit 2 +together, over, knit 1 from +behind, purl 1, knit 1 from +behind, over, knit 1, over +knit 2 together, purl 1, +slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, purl 1, knit 2 together, +purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, knit 1, over, +knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, +knit 1, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>4th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, +knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 4, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl<a name="Page_217" id="Page_217"></a> +1, knit 1, purl 4, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, +purl 15, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.</p> + +<p>5th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit +1 from behind, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2, over, +slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, +knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, +over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, +purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, +pull slipped stitches over, purl 1, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped +stitches over, over, knit 3, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, +knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>6th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, +knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 6, knit 1, purl 6, purl 1 from +behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 16, purl 1 from behind, +purl 4.</p> + +<p>7th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 +from behind, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, over, +slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, +over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit +1, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, +over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, +knit 5, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit +5, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, +knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>8th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, +knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 15, purl 1 from behind, knit +1, purl 1 from behind, purl 17, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.</p> + +<p>9th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit +1 from behind, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 3, over, +slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip +2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 2 together, over, +knit 2 together, over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit +1 from behind, over, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, +knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, knit 2 +together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, +over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, +knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>10th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, +<a name="Page_218" id="Page_218"></a>knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 3, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl +2, knit 1, purl 3, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, +purl 18, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.</p> + +<p>11th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 +from behind, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2, over, +slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, +knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 +together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, +knit 2 together, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 +from behind, over, knit 1, over, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip +1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, purl 1, knit 2 together, +purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, knit 1, +over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, +knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>12th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, +knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 4, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl +1, knit 1, purl 4, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from +behind, purl 19, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.</p> + +<p>13th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 +from behind, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, +slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, +over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit +1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped +stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, +slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1 from behind, +purl 1, knit 1, from behind, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, +pull slipped stitches over, purl 1, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped +stitches over, over, knit 3, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, +knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>14th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, +knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 6, knit 1, purl 6, purl 1 from +behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 18, purl 1 from behind, +purl 4.</p> + +<p>15th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 +from behind, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, +slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, +knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 1, knit 1, +pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch +<a name="Page_219" id="Page_219"></a>over, over, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over +knit 5, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, +knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>16th needle—like the 8th.</p> + +<p>17th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 +from behind, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, +slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, +knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 +together, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch +over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1 from +behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, knit 2 together, +purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, +purl 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull +slipped stitch over, knit 1, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, +knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>18th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, +knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 3, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, +purl 2, knit 1, purl 3, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 +from behind, purl 16, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.</p> + +<p>19th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 +from behind, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, +slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, +over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit +1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull +slipped stitch over, over, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 1 from +behind, over, knit 1, over, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped +stitch over, purl 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, +pull slipped stitch over, over, knit 1, over, knit 1 from behind, +purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>20th needle—like the 4th.</p> + +<p>21st needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 +from behind, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, +slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, +slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, +slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1 from behind, +purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, +pull slipped stitches over, purl 1, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped +stitches over, over, knit 3, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, +<a name="Page_220" id="Page_220"></a>knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>22nd needle—slip 1; knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, +knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 6, knit 1, purl 6, purl 1 from +behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 14, purl 1 from behind, +purl 4.</p> + +<p>23rd needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 +from behind, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, +slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, +knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 +together, over, knit 2, over, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit +1 from behind, over, knit 5, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped +stitches over, over, knit 5, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, +knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.</p> + +<p>24th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, +knit 4, purl 1 from behind, purl 15, purl 1 from behind, knit +1, purl 1 from behind, purl 13, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.</p> + +<p>Repeat from the first needle.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p class="center"><a href="./chapter_9.html">Next Chapter.</a></p> +<p class="center"><a href="./20776-h.htm#TABLE_OF_CONTENTS">Return to Table of Contents.</a></p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A" id="Footnote_A"></a><span class="label">[A]</span> See at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and sizes +and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.</p></div> +</div> +</body> +</html> |