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diff --git a/old/20776-h/chapter_13.html b/old/20776-h/chapter_13.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d3a32b9 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/20776-h/chapter_13.html @@ -0,0 +1,1625 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Encyclopedia of Needlework, by Thérèse De Dillmont. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + clear: both; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + .br {border-right: solid 2px;} + .caption {font-weight: bold; + text-align: center} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + .figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: + 1em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .figright {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .footnotes {border: dashed 1px;} + .footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + .footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} + .fnanchor {vertical-align:baseline; + position: relative; + bottom: 0.33em; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: none;} + + --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> + </head> +<body> + + + +<p><a name="Page_439" id="Page_439"></a></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/698.jpg" alt="INSERTION.—IRISH LACE WITH RAISED ORNAMENTS." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Insertion.—Irish lace with raised ornaments.</span> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 15%;" /> +<h2><a name="IRISH_LACE" id="IRISH_LACE"></a>Irish Lace.</h2> +<hr style="width: 15%;" /> + + +<p>Irish lace, also known under the name of Renaissance lace, +from its having been first made in the sixteenth century, is an +imitation of the earliest pillow laces; it ought, properly speaking, +to be called French lace, having been invented in France +and thence introduced into England and Ireland.</p> + +<p>It is composed of braid or tape, formed into figures, joined +together by needlemade, corded or buttonhole bars and fillings +of different kinds, or by bars alone.</p> + +<p>The lace stitches and bars are almost the same as those used +in fine Venetian point, but they are executed in a coarser material +so that this section of our work may be considered as a +preparation for the different kinds of lace, to be described in +the next chapter.</p> + +<p><b><a name="Materials" id="Materials"></a>Materials</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_692">692</a>).—The braids used for making Irish +lace are an English speciality and manufactured exclusively in +England; they are very various in shade, width and thickness, +and are to be had white, unbleached, grey and pale yellow, +narrow and wide, coarse and fine in texture, with and without +holes, open edge and picots, with large medallions and small.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/699.jpg" alt="FIG. 692. PATTERNS OF THE DIFFERENT +TAPES AND BRAIDS USED FOR IRISH LACE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_692" id="fig_692"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 692. Patterns of the different +tapes and braids used for irish lace.</span> +</div> + +<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_692">692</a> represents the kinds most commonly used, in their +original size, together with a specimen picot, or purl, as they +are called in England, for the outside edge, also to be had +ready made, for those who do not care for the trouble of making +them themselves.</p><p><a name="Page_440" id="Page_440"></a></p> + +<p>For the stitches and bars by which the braids are joined +together, the best material is Fil à dentelle D.M.C,<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> (lace +thread) a smooth even thread, now made in every colour to +match the braids.</p> + +<p><b>Transferring designs for Irish lace.</b>—The best way is +to trace them on oiled tracing +linen with a watery ink, free +from greasy matter. This tracing +linen, which is of English make, +is white, glazed on one side only; +the unglazed surface should be +turned uppermost, as it takes the +ink better.</p> + +<p>As this tracing linen is quite +transparent, the pattern can be +transferred to it at once without +recourse to any other +process.</p> + +<p>It will be found less trying +for the eyes to lay a piece of +transparent coloured paper, or +stuff, under the pattern whilst +you are copying it. The Irish lace +designs are almost all drawn with +double lines, between which +the braid is tacked on with small +back stitches. We may mention +at once that it is advisable to +make the stitches longer on the +right side than on the other, or +at any rate to make them of the +same length.</p> + +<p><b><a name="Tacking_down" id="Tacking_down"></a>Tacking down and gathering in the braids</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_693">693</a>).—Where +the lines of the pattern describe a curve or a circle, the +outside edge of the braid, as shown in fig. <a href="#fig_693">693</a>, must be sewn +down firmly, so as to form little folds or gathers on the inside +<a name="Page_441" id="Page_441"></a>edge, which are first tacked down and then gathered in with +small overcasting stitches in fine thread, so as to fit exactly to +the pattern.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/700.jpg" alt="FIG. 693. TACKING DOWN AND DRAWING IN THE BRAIDS." title="" /> +<a name="fig_693" id="fig_693"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 693. Tacking down and drawing in the braids.</span> +</div> + +<p>The stitches, made for the bars and the fillings, must +never be drawn so tightly as to drag out the edges of the +braids and thus spoil the outlines of the pattern. Nor should +the stitches be caught into the tracing cloth, but only rest +upon it.</p> + +<p>When the embroidery is finished, turn the work the wrong +side up, cut every second or third tacking stitch and pull the +threads carefully out, from the wrong side, when the lace will +separate itself from the backing without difficulty; it has +then to be damped and ironed also on the wrong side. (See +the concluding chapter on the different processes for finishing +off needlework).</p> + +<p>It is of no consequence which are made first, the bars or +the fillings; we however incline to the former, more especially +in the case of buttonhole bars, as they are easier to do than +the fillings and once done, there is less risk of puckering or +drawing the edges together, in making the fillings.</p> + +<p><b><a name="The_stitches" id="The_stitches"></a>The stitches.</b>—We shall now proceed to describe a series +of bars and stitches, which, if carefully studied, will serve as +<a name="Page_442" id="Page_442"></a>a preparation for making all the finer kinds of laces described +in the ensuing chapter.</p> + +<p>Without pretending to have exhausted the infinite variety +of lace stitches that exists, we hope to have brought before +our readers' notice a sufficiently numerous +selection to satisfy all tastes and capacities.</p> + +<p>With regard to the names, the same +stitches are known by so many different ones, +that excepting in the case of those universally +accepted, we have disregarded them +altogether and merely numbered the stitches +in their order.</p> + +<p><b>Plain twisted bar</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_694">694</a>).—Secure +the thread to the braid and throw it across +from one braid edge to the other, put the +needle in downwards from above, and overcast +the first thread, so as to form the two +into a cord. If you do not make enough overcasting +stitches to tighten the two threads, +the bars will be loose and untidy and spoil +the general appearance of the work.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<a name="fig_694" id="fig_694"></a><a name="fig_695" id="fig_695"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 150px;"> +<img src="images/701.jpg" alt="FIG. 694. PLAIN TWISTED BAR." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 694. Plain twisted bar.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 150px;"> +<img src="images/702.jpg" alt="FIG. 695. DOUBLE TWISTED BAR." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 695. Double twisted bar.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Double twisted bar</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_695">695</a>).—Throw +three foundation threads across the space to +be filled and overcast them loosely, so that +they remain visible between the stitches.</p> + +<p><b>Plain buttonhole bar</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_696">696</a>).—Throw +three threads across and cover them with +buttonhole stitches, made from right to left.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 150px;"> +<img src="images/703.jpg" alt="FIG. 696. PLAIN BUTTONHOLE BAR." title="" /> +<a name="fig_696" id="fig_696"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 696. Plain buttonhole bar.</span> +</div> + +<p>In making this and the subsequent bars, +we recommend turning the needle round and holding it as it +were the reverse way, so that the eye not the point passes +first under the threads; strange as it may seem, it is easier in +this manner to avoid splitting the threads. The working thread +should always issue from the edge of the braid, one or two +threads before the foundation threads of the bar, to prevent +the bars being of unequal width, or getting twisted at the +beginning.</p><p><a name="Page_443" id="Page_443"></a></p> + +<p><b>Buttonhole bars with pinned picots</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_697">697</a> and <a href="#fig_698">698</a>). +After covering half, or a third of the bar with buttonhole +stitches, pass the thread without making a loop, under the +foundation threads, and fasten the loop with a pin, fig. <a href="#fig_697">697</a>, +then slip the needle, horizontally from right to left, under the +3 threads and tighten the knot close to the +last buttonhole stitch.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<a name="fig_697" id="fig_697"></a><a name="fig_698" id="fig_698"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 150px;"> +<img src="images/704.jpg" alt="FIG. 697. BUTTONHOLE BAR WITH PINNED PICOTS." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 697. Buttonhole bar with pinned picots.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 150px;"> +<img src="images/705.jpg" alt="FIG. 698. BUTTONHOLE BAR WITH PINNED PICOTS." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 698. Buttonhole bar with pinned picots.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_698">698</a> shows a picot made in the same +manner, but with several buttonhole stitches +inserted between the loop and the buttonholed +bar.</p> + +<p><b>Bar with lace picot</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_699">699</a>).—Here +the picot is made by bringing the thread +out through the loop and beginning the buttonhole +stitches, 4 or 5 in number, according +to the size of the thread, quite close to the +pin, so that they entirely cover the loop. The +pin must be stuck in the width of 4 stitches, +distant from the bar, and the foundation threads should be +completely hidden under the bar.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<a name="fig_699" id="fig_699"></a><a name="fig_700" id="fig_700"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 150px;"> +<img src="images/706.jpg" alt="FIG. 699. BAR WITH LACE PICOT." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 699. Bar with lace picot.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 150px;"> +<img src="images/707.jpg" alt="FIG. 700. BAR WITH PICOT MADE IN BULLION STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 700. Bar with picot made in bullion stitch.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Bar with picot made in bullion stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_700">700</a>).—Put +the needle halfway into the last buttonhole stitch, twist the +thread ten or twelve times round it from left to right, draw +<a name="Page_444" id="Page_444"></a>it through and tighten the thread, so that the spiral on the +thread form a semicircle, then continue the bar (see also for +the bullion stitch figs. <a href="./chapter_5.html#fig_179">179</a> and <a href="./chapter_12.html#fig_661">661</a>).</p> + +<p><b>Bar with buttonhole picot</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_701">701</a>).—Cover rather more +than half the bar with buttonhole stitches, carry the thread +three times to the 6th stitch and back, then buttonhole these +threads that are attached to the bar in the same way as the +bar itself and finish the bar in the usual way.</p> + +<p>These buttonhole picots are generally used for edging lace; +they may in their turn be adorned with small pinned picots to +produce a richer effect.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<a name="fig_701" id="fig_701"></a><a name="fig_702" id="fig_702"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 150px;"> +<img src="images/708.jpg" alt="FIG. 701. BAR WITH BUTTONHOLE PICOT." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 701. Bar with buttonhole picot.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 150px;"> +<img src="images/709.jpg" alt="FIG. 702. BAR WITH TWO ROWS OF KNOTS." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 702. Bar with two rows of knots.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Bar with two rows of knots</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_702">702</a>).—Over two foundation +threads, make double knots, far enough apart to leave +room for the knots of the next row between.</p> + +<p>These double knots consist, in +the first place, of one plain buttonhole +stitch and then one reversed, +that is, made by bringing the +needle out in front of the thread +and passing it under the loop; the +result being that the thread will +lie behind the thread and not before +it, as in an ordinary buttonhole stitch.</p> + +<p><b>Branched bars</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_703">703</a>).—Where you have a larger surface +<a name="Page_445" id="Page_445"></a>to cover with bars, you are generally obliged to make them +with branches. For this purpose you prepare the threads as for +an ordinary bar and cover them halfway with buttonhole +stitches; then you carry on the foundation thread to the next +bar, buttonhole it also halfway, lay the next foundation thread, +and finally buttonhole all the half-covered bars till you reach +the dotted line, from whence you lay the last foundation +threads.</p> + +<p>The last bar is worked over 2 or 4 threads, so that the +working thread can be taken back to the edge of the braid by +means of the last buttonhole stitches.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="fig_703" id="fig_703"></a><a name="fig_704" id="fig_704"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/710.jpg" alt="FIG. 703. BRANCHED BARS." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 703. Branched bars.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/711.jpg" alt="FIG. 704. PLAIN RUSSIAN STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 704. Plain russian stitch.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Plain Russian stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_704">704</a>).—Stitches of all kinds can +be used, as well as bars, for joining braids together that run +parallel to each other, and for +filling up the spaces between. +These stitches, which serve as +an insertion, are some of them +very elementary, whilst others +require great skill and patience +to execute.</p> + +<p>The simplest of all is the +Russian stitch, which bears +a great resemblance to the +crossed stitch, shown in fig. <a href="./chapter_1.html#fig_39">39</a>, +and the crossed back-stitch, +fig. <a href="./chapter_5.html#fig_176">176</a>.</p> + +<p>You pass the needle from +left to right, under the edge +of the braid, then again from right to left under the opposite +edge, taking care always to leave the thread in front of the needle.</p> + +<p><b>Twisted Russian stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_705">705</a>).—Instead of passing +the needle behind the thread, +pass it before it and round +it, so that the needle always +comes out again beneath +the thread, which will then be +twice twisted.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="fig_705" id="fig_705"></a><a name="fig_706" id="fig_706"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/712.jpg" alt="FIG. 705. TWISTED RUSSIAN STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 705. Twisted russian stitch.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/713.jpg" alt="FIG. 706. COLUMN STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 706. Column stitch.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Column Stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_706">706</a>).—<a name="Page_446" id="Page_446"></a>At +the bottom, the stitch is made like the plain Russian stitch, +and at the top, like the one in fig. <a href="#fig_705">705</a>, with the difference +that the second thread is passed three times round the first.</p> + +<p><b><a name="Insertion" id="Insertion"></a>Insertion of single buttonhole +stitches</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_707">707</a> and +<a href="#fig_708">708</a>).—Make very loose buttonhole +stitches along both +edges of the braid, all the +same size and the same +distance apart, and vertically, +opposite to each other.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="fig_707" id="fig_707"></a><a name="fig_708" id="fig_708"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/714.jpg" alt="FIG. 707. INSERTION OF SINGLE BUTTONHOLE STITCHES." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 707. Insertion of single buttonhole stitches.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/715.jpg" alt="FIG. 708. INSERTION OF PLAIN BUTTONHOLE STITCHES." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 708. Insertion of plain buttonhole stitches.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p>When these two rows are +finished, pick up each loop +with Russian stitch, either +single, fig. <a href="#fig_704">704</a>, or twisted, +fig. <a href="#fig_705">705</a>. Fig. <a href="#fig_708">708</a> shows the +double Russian stitch made in +each loop; it may be trebled or +quadrupled, according to whether +you wish your insertion +to be very transparent or not.</p> + +<p><b>Insertion with bead stitches</b> +(fig. <a href="#fig_709">709</a>).—Join the opposite +rows of loops together by +four stitches. The threads of +these stitches must lie quite +flat, side by side, and not one +on the top of the other. After +the fourth stitch, you wind the +thread round the bottom loop and then carry it on to the next, +whence you repeat the four stitches as above.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/716.jpg" alt="FIG. 709. INSERTION WITH BEAD STITCHES." title="" /> +<a name="fig_709" id="fig_709"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 709. Insertion with bead stitches.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Cluster insertion</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_710">710</a>).—Over the middle of two +finished plain bars and one half-finished one, a short distance +apart, you make five buttonhole stitches and overcast the remainder +of the third bar. The first bar of the next cluster +must be set quite close to the last.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 150px;"> +<img src="images/717.jpg" alt="FIG. 710. CLUSTER INSERTION." title="" /> +<a name="fig_710" id="fig_710"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 710. Cluster insertion.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Insertion with branches</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_711">711</a> and <a href="#fig_712">712</a>).—Throw the +thread across the middle of the space between two edges of +<a name="Page_447" id="Page_447"></a>braid, and lengthways, from one end to the +other, pass the needle horizontally under four +or five threads of the braid, across the insertion; +then carry it in a similar manner, first to the +left and then to the right, take up the same +number of threads of the braid and connect +the three loops together by a knot, as is clearly +shown in fig. <a href="#fig_711">711</a>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<a name="fig_711" id="fig_711"></a><a name="fig_712" id="fig_712"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 150px;"> +<img src="images/718.jpg" alt="FIG. 711. INSERTION WITH PLAIN BRANCHES." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 711. Insertion with plain branches.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 150px;"> +<img src="images/719.jpg" alt="FIG. 712. INSERTION WITH BRANCHES AND WHEELS." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 712. Insertion with branches and wheels.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_712">712</a> represents a similar beginning, and +a similar interlacing of the threads, but ornamented +this time with a wheel, added after +the knot has been made over the loops.</p> + +<p><b>Insertion with leaves in darning +stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_713">713</a>).—Fasten on the thread +where, according to the illustration, the first leaf in the insertion +ought to come, carry it across to the opposite side, draw +it through the edge of the braid and bring it back to the point +whence it started, lay threads across to both sides, like in +figs. <a href="#fig_711">711</a> and <a href="#fig_712">712</a>, unite them by a knot, such as described +in fig. <a href="#fig_711">711</a>, lay the thread once more round the middle +leaf, and finish the leaf in darning stitch, working downwards +from the top, as described in the preceding chapter in figs. <a href="./chapter_12.html#fig_646">646</a> +and <a href="./chapter_12.html#fig_647">647</a>. As may be seen from the second middle leaf, your +<a name="Page_448" id="Page_448"></a>darning stitches have to be made over five threads, subdivided +into two and three.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 150px;"> +<img src="images/720.jpg" alt="FIG. 713. INSERTION WITH LEAVES WORKED IN DARNING STITCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_713" id="fig_713"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 713. Insertion with leaves worked in darning stitch.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Insertion with small wheels</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_714">714</a>).—Here, you have +to make two rows of Russian +stitches opposite each other +and carry the thread to the +point of intersection, then, +you make a wheel over five +threads and pass the needle +under the completed wheel to +reach the next point of intersection. +Half wheels may also +be added at the edge of the +braid, as in figs. <a href="./chapter_12.html#fig_658">658</a> and <a href="./chapter_12.html#fig_659">659</a>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="fig_714" id="fig_714"></a><a name="fig_715" id="fig_715"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/721.jpg" alt="Fig. 714. INSERTION WITH SMALL WHEELS." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 714. Insertion with small wheels.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/722.jpg" alt="Fig. 715. INSERTION WITH BIG WHEELS." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 715. Insertion with big wheels.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Insertion with big wheels</b> +(fig. <a href="#fig_715">715</a>).—Carry the thread +horizontally across the middle +of the space intended for the +insertion, to the opposite side, +and then conduct it by means of overcasting stitches into the +corner; thence make a loose loop over to the opposite corner, +pass the needle under six or eight threads of the braid edge, slip +it under the horizontal thread first laid and behind the loop, +and finish the stitch on the other side in the edge of the braid.</p> + +<p>Throw the thread again across the empty space and over +the first thread, bring your needle back to the middle, make a +big wheel over four threads, passing each time under the same +threads, then overcast the single thread, come back to the edge +of the braid and make the second loop, bringing out the thread +at the same place where the other stitches came out.</p> + +<p><b>Insertion with cones</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_716">716</a> and <a href="#fig_717">717</a>).—Over plain +but very distended Russian stitch, make darning stitches backwards +and forwards, beginning at the point and reaching to +the middle, so as to form small cone-shaped figures.</p> + +<p>To reach the point of the next cone you overcast the thread +of the Russian stitch several times.</p> + +<p>You may also, as in fig. <a href="#fig_717">717</a>, double the Russian stitch and +make the darning stitches in such a manner that the points of +<a name="Page_449" id="Page_449"></a>the cones touch each other and +their bases meet the edge of +the braid. The same thing, +worked the reverse way, that +is, with the points turned outwards +to the edge, produces +a not less pretty effect.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="fig_716" id="fig_716"></a><a name="fig_717" id="fig_717"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/723.jpg" alt="Fig. 716. INSERTION WITH CONES." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 716. Insertion with cones.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/724.jpg" alt="Fig. 717. INSERTION WITH CONES." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 717. Insertion with cones.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Insertion with embroidered +squares</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_718">718</a>).—After +making rows of loose +buttonhole stitches along the +braid edges, as in figs. <a href="#fig_707">707</a>, +<a href="#fig_708">708</a>, <a href="#fig_709">709</a>, run a thread through +the buttonhole stitches; this +thread serves as the foundation +to the Russian stitches by +which the two edges are joined +together. The empty square +space left between the Russian +stitches is then filled up with +buttonhole stitches, like those +in fig. <a href="./chapter_12.html#fig_651">651</a>, in the foregoing +chapter.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<a name="fig_718" id="fig_718"></a> +<img src="images/725.jpg" alt="Fig. 718. INSERTION WITH EMBROIDERED SQUARES." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 718. Insertion with embroidered squares.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Insertion with half bars</b> +(fig. <a href="#fig_719">719</a>).—Fasten on the thread in one of +the corners of the braid and conduct it by +means of overcasting stitches to the middle +of the insertion, draw it through the edge of +the braid on the right and make buttonhole +stitches over it, to the middle of the space to +be filled, then carry the thread to the left, draw +it through the left edge, a little higher up +than on the other side, and make the same +number of stitches over it as over the first. +You can vary this insertion with very good +result by making more stitches on one side +than on the other, but it should never be +more than 10 or 12 stitches wide.</p><p><a name="Page_450" id="Page_450"></a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 150px;"> +<a name="fig_719" id="fig_719"></a> +<img src="images/726.jpg" alt="Fig. 719: INSERTION WITH HALF BARS." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 719. Insertion with half bars.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Plain net stitch. <a name="First_lace_stitch" id="First_lace_stitch"></a>First lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_720">720</a>).—Make rows +of buttonhole stitches to and fro, loose enough to form loops +into which the stitches of each subsequent row are set. You +must be careful to make the same number of stitches in all the +spaces that are of the same size, and also, when you begin a +row with a whole stitch, to begin the return row with a half, +and so on, in regular rotation.</p> + +<p>The number of stitches should vary with the width of the +pattern and the decreasing and increasing should always be +done at the edge.</p> + +<p>The loops must be as many threads of the braid edge long, +as they are wide.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_720" id="fig_720"></a><a name="fig_721" id="fig_721"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/727.jpg" alt="FIG. 720. PLAIN NET STITCH. FIRST LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 720. Plain net stitch. First lace stitch.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/728.jpg" alt="FIG. 721. DOUBLE NET STITCH. SECOND LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 721. Double net stitch. Second lace stitch.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Double net stitch. Second lace +stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_721">721</a>).—You leave the +same distance between the stitches +here as in the preceding figure, but +in each of the loops of the first row, +you must make two buttonhole +stitches close together. It is as well +to round the loop a little less than +is usually done in net stitch.</p> + +<p><b>Third lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_722">722</a>).—Here, +you make three buttonhole +stitches close together, joined to the next three by a loop of +thread, just long enough to hold the three buttonhole stitches +of the subsequent row.</p><p><a name="Page_451" id="Page_451"></a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_722" id="fig_722"></a><a name="fig_723" id="fig_723"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/729.jpg" alt="FIG. 722. THIRD LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 722. Third lace stitch.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/730.jpg" alt="FIG. 723. FOURTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 723. Fourth lace stitch.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Fourth lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_723">723</a>).—Working from left to +right, make two buttonhole stitches rather near together, and +leave twice as long a loop between them and the next two +stitches as between the two first.</p> + +<p>In the next row, which is worked from right to left, make +one stitch in the loop between the two stitches that are close +together and three or four in the long loop.</p> + +<p><b>Fifth lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_724">724</a>).—As in fig. <a href="#fig_723">723</a>, you begin +this stitch from left to right, but making three stitches very +close together with an intermediate loop as long as the three +stitches in one.</p> + +<p>In the second row, you make one buttonhole stitch in each +of the loops between the three stitches and six or eight in the +long intermediate loop.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_724" id="fig_724"></a><a name="fig_725" id="fig_725"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/731.jpg" alt="FIG. 724. FIFTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 724. Fifth lace stitch.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/732.jpg" alt="FIG. 725. SIXTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 725. Sixth lace stitch.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Sixth lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_725">725</a>).—Over +wide loops, made from left to +right in the first row, make in the +second, enough buttonhole stitches +entirely to cover the thread.</p> + +<p>In the third row of stitches, put +the needle into the small loop between +two sets of buttonhole stitches, +so that the close stitches shall +form vertical lines across the surface +they cover.</p><p><a name="Page_452" id="Page_452"></a></p> + +<p>This stitch admits of every sort of modification, such as, +for instance, making the third row of stitches on the buttonhole +stitches, in the middle of the ones on the small loop; +or making one row of close stitches first, and then three open +rows; in the former case you should always make an uneven +number of buttonhole stitches, so that you have the same number +on both sides of the needle, which you must put in between +the two threads that form the middle buttonhole stitch.</p> + +<p><b>Seventh lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_726">726</a>).—Begin, working from right +to left, by making one row of pairs of buttonhole stitches, a +very short distance apart; in the second row you make one +buttonhole stitch between each of these pairs, and in the +third row, two buttonhole stitches in every long loop. Here, +the stitches must not be crowded together but have a small +gap left between them.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_726" id="fig_726"></a><a name="fig_727" id="fig_727"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/739.jpg" alt="FIG. 726. SEVENTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 726. Seventh lace stitch.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/740.jpg" alt="FIG. 727. EIGHTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 727. Eighth lace stitch.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Eighth lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_727">727</a>).—This stitch is generally +known as the "pea-stitch" on account of the holes occasioned +by the different distribution of the stitches.</p> + +<p>The first row consists of stitches, set rather closely together, +and all the same distance apart. In the second row, you make +one buttonhole stitch in the last stitch of the first row, then, +missing two loops and three buttonhole stitches, you make two +stitches in the next loops and so on. In the third row, you +make three stitches in the big loop, and one in the loop between +the stitches of the second row.</p><p><a name="Page_453" id="Page_453"></a></p> + +<p><b>Ninth, and tenth lace stitch</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_728">728</a> and <a href="#fig_729">729</a>).—Both, +the small and the big pointed groups of stitches, begin with a +row of close buttonhole stitches.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_728" id="fig_728"></a><a name="fig_729" id="fig_729"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/741.jpg" alt="FIG. 728. NINTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 728. Ninth lace stitch.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/742.jpg" alt="FIG. 729. TENTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 729. Tenth lace stitch.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_728">728</a> requires three rows; in the second you miss two +stitches and make two in the next loops; in the third, only one +stitch is introduced between the two loops of the lower row.</p> + +<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_729">729</a> requires five rows. The stitches of the first must +be set as closely together as possible; in the second row you +make four stitches and miss two of the first row, in the third +row you make three stitches, in the fourth, two and in the fifth, +one only. The long loops of the last row must not be too slack +so that the first stitches of the next scallop may quite cover them.</p> + +<p><b>Eleventh lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_730">730</a>).—This stitch is not really +more difficult to work than those we +have been describing, but requires +rather more attention to learn.</p> + +<p>The first row consists of plain +net stitches; in the second, you +have three buttonhole stitches in the +middle net stitch; in the third, +three buttonhole stitches in the +whole loops on either side of the +three buttonhole stitches of the second +row, and one stitch in the half +loops that precede and immediately +follow them; the fourth row is similar to the second.</p><p><a name="Page_454" id="Page_454"></a></p> + +<p>In the fifth row the close stitches are changed. The three +buttonhole stitches are made in the third whole loop, before +and after those of the fourth row, so that between two groups +of three stitches you have six single buttonhole stitches and +seven loops.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_730" id="fig_730"></a><a name="fig_731" id="fig_731"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/743.jpg" alt="FIG. 730. ELEVENTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 730. Eleventh lace stitch.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/744.jpg" alt="FIG. 731. TWELFTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 731. Twelfth lace stitch.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Twelfth lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_731">731</a>).—Fasten on your thread, +take it by overcasting stitches over the braid edge, half a +c/m. from the corner, and make three buttonhole stitches +downwards, quite close together. The next loops, over four or +six threads of the braid, must be left long enough to be on a +level with the first stitch reaching downwards from the edge.</p> + +<p>In the second row, you cover the long loops with three +buttonhole stitches and draw the intervening thread quite tight.</p> + +<p>The third row is like the first, with the difference, that you +put the needle in between the two threads of the buttonhole +stitch, instead of through the loops.</p> + +<p><b>Thirteenth lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_732">732</a>).—The stitch here represented, +as well as the two next ones are looped from left to +right and then again from right to left.</p> + +<p>As it is more unusual to make the loops from left to right +than the reverse way, the proper position of the needle and +the course of the thread are shown in the illustrations.</p> + +<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_732">732</a> requires, in the first place, two buttonhole stitches +very close together in the edge of the braid, then a third +stitch covering the two first stitches and set quite close to them; +the connecting thread between these stitches must be tightly +<a name="Page_455" id="Page_455"></a>stretched so as to lie almost vertically, that the stitches may +form straight lines.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_732" id="fig_732"></a><a name="fig_733" id="fig_733"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/745.jpg" alt="FIG. 732. THIRTEENTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 732. Thirteenth lace stitch.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/746.jpg" alt="FIG. 733. FOURTEENTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 733. Fourteenth lace stitch.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Fourteenth lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_733">733</a>).—This begins, likewise, +with two buttonhole stitches, above which you make two +buttonhole stitches instead of one, as in fig. <a href="#fig_732">732</a>, producing +an open ground with vertical bars.</p> + +<p><b>Fifteenth lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_734">734</a>).—This resembles the two +foregoing stitches and consists of three buttonhole stitches, +made over the edge of the braid or the intermediate bars, and +joined together afterwards under one transverse stitch.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_734" id="fig_734"></a><a name="fig_735" id="fig_735"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/747.jpg" alt="FIG. 734. FIFTEENTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 734. Fifteenth lace stitch.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/748.jpg" alt="FIG. 735. SIXTEENTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 735. Sixteenth lace stitch.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Sixteenth lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_735">735</a>).—You begin this by a +row of net stitches worked from right to left, or as the +engraving shows, by a row of stitches called «seed stitches».</p> +<p><a name="Page_456" id="Page_456"></a></p> + +<p>The second row, worked from left to right, consists of +short bars, set slanting and shaped like a seed, and made the +same way as the picot in fig. <a href="#fig_699">699</a>. The first stitch is carried +through the loop of the row below, the second over both threads +and far enough from the loop to leave room for three other +stitches. The first of the four buttonhole stitches of the next +group must be set quite close to the last.</p> + +<p><b>Seventeenth lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_736">736</a>).—Here we have the +same pattern as the preceding one without the row of net +stitches; the engraving shows us at the same time, the proper +direction of the needle and thread for the row that is worked +from right to left.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_736" id="fig_736"></a><a name="fig_737" id="fig_737"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/749.jpg" alt="FIG. 736. SEVENTEENTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 736. Seventeenth lace stitch.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/750.jpg" alt="FIG. 737. EIGHTEENTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 737. Eighteenth lace stitch.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Eighteenth lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_737">737</a>).—This is the first of a +series of lace stitches, often met with in old Venetian lace, and +which can therefore with perfect right be called, Venetian +stitches.</p> + +<p>Owing to the manner and order in which the rows of +stitches are connected and placed above one another, they form +less transparent grounds than those we have hitherto described.</p> + +<p>In these grounds you begin by making the row of loops, then +you throw a thread across on the same level and in coming +back, pass the needle through the row of loops under the +thread stretched across, and under the stitch of the previous row.</p> + +<p><b>Nineteenth lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_738">738</a>).—The close stitch here +represented is more common in Venetian lace than the loose +stitch given in fig. <a href="#fig_737">737</a>.</p><p><a name="Page_457" id="Page_457"></a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_738" id="fig_738"></a><a name="fig_739" id="fig_739"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/751.jpg" alt="FIG. 738. NINETEENTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 738. Nineteenth lace stitch.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/752.jpg" alt="FIG. 739. TWENTIETH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 739. Twentieth lace stitch.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Twentieth lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_739">739</a>).—By missing some loops +of the close ground in one row and replacing them by the +same number in the next, small gaps are formed, and by a +regular and systematic missing and taking up of stitches, in +this way, extremely pretty grounds can be produced.</p> + +<p><b>Twenty-first lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_740">740</a>).—These close lace +stitches, can be varied in all sorts of other ways by embroidering +the needle-made grounds.</p> + +<p>In fig. <a href="#fig_740">740</a>, you have little tufts in darning stitch, and in +a less twisted material than the close stitches of the ground, +worked upon the ground.</p> + +<p>If you use Fil à dentelle D.M.C +(lace thread) for the ground, you +should take either Coton à repriser +D.M.C (darning cotton), or better +still, Coton surfin D.M.C<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> for the +tufts. The ground can also be ornamented +with little rings of buttonholing, +stars or flowerets in bullion +or some other fancy stitch.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_740" id="fig_740"></a><a name="fig_741" id="fig_741"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/753.jpg" alt="FIG. 740. TWENTY-FIRST LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 740. Twenty-first lace stitch.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/754.jpg" alt="FIG. 741. TWENTY-SECOND LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 741. Twenty-second lace stitch.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Twenty-second lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_741">741</a>).—For the above three stitches +and the three that follow, the work +<a name="Page_458" id="Page_458"></a>has to be held, so that the finished rows are turned to the worker +and the needle points to the outside of the hand. In the first +row, from left to right, take hold of the thread near the end that +is in the braid, lay it from left to right under the point of the +needle, and bring it back again to the right, over the same. +Whilst twisting the thread in this way round the needle with +the right hand, you must hold the eye of the needle under +the left thumb.</p> + +<p>When you have laid the thread round draw the needle +through the loops; the bars must stand straight and be of +uniform length. Were they to slant or be at all uneven, we +should consider the work badly done.</p> + +<p>In the row that is worked from left to right, the thread +must be twisted round the needle, likewise from left to right.</p> + +<p><b>Twenty-third lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_742">742</a>).—This is begun with +the same stitches as fig. <a href="#fig_741">741</a>, worked from right to left. You +then take up every loop that comes between the vertical bars +with an overcasting stitch, drawing the thread quite out, and +tightening it as much as is necessary after each stitch. You +cannot take several stitches on the needle at the same time +and draw out the thread for them all at once, as this pulls +the bars out of their place.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_742" id="fig_742"></a><a name="fig_743" id="fig_743"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/755.jpg" alt="FIG. 742. TWENTY-THIRD LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 742. Twenty-third lace stitch.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/756.jpg" alt="FIG. 743. TWENTY-FOURTH LACE STITCH" title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 743. Twenty-fourth lace stitch</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Twenty-fourth lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_743">743</a>).—This is often called +the Sorrento stitch.</p> + +<p>Every group of three bars of stitches is separated from the +next by a long loop, round which the thread is twisted in its +<a name="Page_459" id="Page_459"></a>backward course. In each of the succeeding rows you place the +first bar between the first and second of the preceding row, and +the third one in the long loop, so that the pattern advances, as +it were in steps.</p> + +<p><b>Twenty-fifth and twenty-sixth lace stitches</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_744">744</a> +and <a href="#fig_745">745</a>).—These two figures show how the relative position +of the groups of bars may be varied.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_744" id="fig_744"></a><a name="fig_745" id="fig_745"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/757.jpg" alt="FIG. 744. TWENTY-FIFTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 744. Twenty-fifth lace stitch.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/758.jpg" alt="FIG. 745. TWENTY-SIXTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 745. Twenty-sixth lace stitch.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Both consist of the same stitches as those described in fig. <a href="#fig_741">741</a>. The thread that connects the groups should be tightly +stretched, so that the rows may +form straight horizontal lines.</p> + +<p><b>Twenty-seventh lace stitch</b> +(fig. <a href="#fig_746">746</a>).—Begin by making two +rows of net stitches, fig. <a href="#fig_720">720</a>, then +two of close ones, fig. <a href="#fig_738">738</a>, and one +row like those of fig. <a href="#fig_741">741</a>.</p> + +<p>If you want to lengthen the bars, +twist the thread once or twice more +round the needle. You can also make +one row of bars surmounted by +wheels, as shown in fig. <a href="#fig_765">765</a>, then +one more row of bars and continue with close stitches.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_746" id="fig_746"></a><a name="fig_747" id="fig_747"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/759.jpg" alt="FIG. 746. TWENTY-SEVENTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 746. Twenty-seventh lace stitch.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/761.jpg" alt="FIG. 747. TWENTY-EIGHTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 747. Twenty-eighth lace stitch.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Twenty-eighth lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_747">747</a>).—Between every +group of three bars, set close together, leave a space of a cor<a name="Page_460" id="Page_460"></a>responding +width; then bring the thread back over the bars, as +in figs. <a href="#fig_737">737</a>, <a href="#fig_738">738</a> and <a href="#fig_739">739</a>, without going through the loops. +In the second row, you make three bars in the empty space, +two over the three bars of the first row and again three in +the next empty space. The third row is like the first.</p> + +<p><b>Twenty-ninth lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_748">748</a>).—This stitch, known +as Greek net stitch, can be used instead of buttonhole bars +for filling in large surfaces.</p> + +<p>Make bars from left to right, a little distance apart as in +fig. <a href="#fig_741">741</a>, leaving the loops between rather slack, so that when +they have been twice overcast by the returning thread, they +may still be slightly rounded. In the next row, you make the +bar in the middle of the loop and lift it up sufficiently with the +needle, for the threads to form a +hexagon like a net mesh.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_748" id="fig_748"></a><a name="fig_749" id="fig_749"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/762.jpg" alt="FIG. 748. TWENTY-NINTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 748. Twenty-ninth lace stitch.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/760.jpg" alt="FIG. 749. THIRTIETH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 749. Thirtieth lace stitch.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Thirtieth lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_749">749</a>). +After a row of pairs of buttonhole +stitches set closely together, with +long loops between, as long as the +space between the pairs, throw the +thread across in a line with the +extremities of the loops, fasten it +to the edge of the braid and make +pairs of buttonhole stitches, as in +the first row above it.</p><p><a name="Page_461" id="Page_461"></a></p> + +<p>The loops must be perfectly regular, to facilitate which, +guide lines may be traced across the pattern, and pins stuck +in as shown in the figure, round which to carry the thread.</p> + +<p><b>Thirty-first lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_750">750</a>).—At first sight this stitch +looks very much like the preceding one, but it differs entirely +from it in the way in which the threads are knotted. +You pass the needle under the loop and the laid thread, +then stick in the pin at the right distance for making the long +loop, bring the thread round behind the pin, make a loop +round the point of the needle, as shows in the engraving, and +pull up the knot.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_750" id="fig_750"></a><a name="fig_751" id="fig_751"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/763.jpg" alt="FIG. 750. THIRTY-FIRST LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 750. Thirty-first lace stitch.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/764.jpg" alt="FIG. 751. THIRTY-SECOND LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 751. Thirty-second lace stitch.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Thirty-second lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_751">751</a>).—To introduce a +greater variety into lace stitches, netting can also be imitated +with the needle. You begin with a loop in the corner of a +square and work in diagonal lines. The loops are secured by +means of the same stitch shown in fig. <a href="#fig_750">750</a>, and the regularity +of the loops ensured, as it is there, by making them round a +pin, stuck in at the proper distance. The squares or meshes +must be made with the greatest accuracy; that being the case, +most of the stitches described in the preceding chapter can be +worked upon them, and the smallest spaces can be filled with +delicate embroidery.</p> + +<p><b>Thirty-third lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_752">752</a>).—This stitch is frequently +met with in the oldest Irish lace, especially in the kind +where the braids are joined together by fillings not bars. At +<a name="Page_462" id="Page_462"></a>first sight, it looks merely like a close net stitch, the ground +and filling all alike, so uniform is it in appearance, but on +a closer observation it will be found to be quite a different +stitch from any of those we have been describing.</p> + +<p>The first stitch is made like a plain net stitch, the second +consists of a knot that ties up the loop of the first stitch. Fillings +of this kind must be worked as compactly as possible, so +that hardly any spaces are visible between the individual rows.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_752" id="fig_752"></a><a name="fig_753" id="fig_753"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/765.jpg" alt="FIG. 752. THIRTY-THIRD LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 752. Thirty-third lace stitch.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/766.jpg" alt="FIG. 753. THIRTY-FOURTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 753. Thirty-fourth lace stitch.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Thirty-fourth lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_753">753</a>).—To fill in a surface +with this stitch, known as the wheel or spider stitch, begin by +laying double diagonal threads to and fro, at regular distances +apart, so that they lie side by side and are not twisted. When +the whole surface is covered with these double threads, throw +a second similar series across them, the opposite way. The +return thread, in making this second layer, must be conducted +under the double threads of the first layer and over the single +thread just laid, and wound two or three times round them, +thereby forming little wheels or spiders, like those already +described in the preceding chapter in figs. <a href="./chapter_12.html#fig_653">653</a> and <a href="./chapter_12.html#fig_654">654</a>.</p> + +<p><b>Thirty-fifth lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_754">754</a>).—Begin by making a +very regular netted foundation, but without knots, where the +two layers of threads intersect each other.</p> + +<p>Then, make a third layer of diagonal threads across the +two first layers, so that all meet at the same points of intersection, +thus forming six rays divergent from one centre. With +<a name="Page_463" id="Page_463"></a>the fourth and last thread, which forms the seventh and eighth +ray, you make the wheel over seven threads, then slip the +needle under it and carry it on to the point for the next wheel.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_754" id="fig_754"></a><a name="fig_755" id="fig_755"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/767.jpg" alt="FIG. 754. THIRTY-FIFTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 754. Thirty-fifth lace stitch.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/768.jpg" alt="FIG. 755. THIRTY-SIXTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 755. Thirty-sixth lace stitch.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Thirty-sixth lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_755">755</a>).—After covering all the +surface to be embroidered, with threads stretched in horizontal +lines, you cover them with loops going from one to the +other and joining themselves in the subsequent row to the +preceding loops.</p> + +<p>The needle will thus have to pass underneath two threads. +Then cover this needle-made canvas +with cones worked in close +darning stitches, as in figs. <a href="./chapter_12.html#fig_648">648</a>, +<a href="#fig_716">716</a> and <a href="#fig_717">717</a>.</p> + +<p><b>Thirty-seventh lace stitch</b> +(fig. <a href="#fig_756">756</a>).—Here, by means of +the first threads that you lay, you +make an imitation of the Penelope +canvas used for tapestry work, +covering the surface with double +threads, a very little distance apart, +stretched both ways. The second +layer of threads must pass alternately under and over the first, +where they cross each other, and the small squares thus left +between, must be encircled several times with thread and then +buttonholed; the thicker the foundation and the more raised +<a name="Page_464" id="Page_464"></a>and compact the buttonholing upon it is, the better the effect +will be. Each of these little buttonholed rings should be begun +and finished off independently of the others.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_756" id="fig_756"></a><a name="fig_757" id="fig_757"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/769.jpg" alt="FIG. 756. THIRTY-SEVENTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 756. Thirty-seventh lace stitch.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/770.jpg" alt="FIG. 757. THIRTY-EIGHTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 757. Thirty-eighth lace stitch.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Thirty-eighth lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_757">757</a>).—Plain net stitch +being quicker to do than any other, one is tempted to use it +more frequently; but as it is a little monotonous some openwork +ornament upon it is a great improvement; such for +instance as small buttonholed rings, worked all over the ground +at regular intervals. Here again, as in the preceding figure the +rings must be made independently of each other.</p> + +<p><b>Thirty-ninth lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_758">758</a>).—Corded bars, +branching out into other bars, worked in overcasting stitches, +may also serve as a lace ground.</p> + +<p>You lay five or six threads, according to the course the +bars are to take; you overcast the branches up to the point +of their junction with the principal line, thence you throw +across the foundation threads for another branch, so that +having reached a given point and coming back to finish the +threads left uncovered in going, you will often have from six +to eight short lengths of thread to overcast.</p> + +<p>Overcasting stitches are always worked from right to left.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_758" id="fig_758"></a><a name="fig_759" id="fig_759"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/771.jpg" alt="FIG. 758. THIRTY-NINTH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 758. Thirty-ninth lace stitch.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/772.jpg" alt="FIG. 759. FORTIETH LACE STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 759. Fortieth lace stitch.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Fortieth lace stitch</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_759">759</a>).—Of all the different kinds +of stitches here given, this, which terminates the series, is +perhaps the one requiring the most patience. It was copied +from a piece of very old and valuable Brabant lace, of which +<a name="Page_465" id="Page_465"></a>it formed the entire ground. Our figure of course represents +it on a very magnified scale, the original being worked in the +finest imaginable material, over a single foundation thread.</p> + +<p>In the first row, after the three +usual foundation threads are laid, +you make the buttonhole stitches +to the number of eight or ten, up +to the point from which the next +branch issues, from the edge of +the braid, that is, upwards.</p> + +<p>Then you bring the needle +down again and buttonhole the +second part of the bar, working +from right to left.</p> + +<p>A picot, like the one described +in fig. <a href="#fig_701">701</a>, marks the point where the bars join. More picots +of the same kind may be added at discretion.</p> + +<p><b>Wheel composed of buttonhole bars</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_760">760</a>, <a href="#fig_761">761</a>, +<a href="#fig_762">762</a>, <a href="#fig_763">763</a>).—As we have already more than once given directions +for making wheels, not only in the present chapter, but +also in the one on netting, there is no need to enlarge on the +kind of stitches to be used here, but we will explain the course +of the thread in making wheels, composed of buttonhole bars +in a square opening.</p><p><a name="Page_466" id="Page_466"></a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_760" id="fig_760"></a><a name="fig_761" id="fig_761"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/773.jpg" alt="FIG. 760. WHEEL COMPOSED OF BUTTONHOLE BARS. +MAKING AND TAKING UP THE LOOPS." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 760. Wheel composed of buttonhole bars. +Making and taking up the loops.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/774.jpg" alt="FIG. 761. WHEEL COMPOSED OF BUTTONHOLE BARS. +THE BUTTONHOLING BEGUN." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 761. Wheel composed of buttonhole bars. +The buttonholing begun.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_760">760</a> shows how the first eight loops which form the +foundation of the bars are made.</p> + +<p>In fig. <a href="#fig_761">761</a> you will see that a thread has been passed +through the loops, for the purpose of drawing them in and +making a ring in addition to which, two threads added to +the loop serve as padding for the buttonhole stitches; the +latter should always be begun on the braid side. Fig. <a href="#fig_762">762</a> represents +the bar begun in fig. <a href="#fig_761">761</a> completed, and the passage of +the thread to the next bar, and +fig. <a href="#fig_763">763</a> the ring buttonholed +after the completion of all the +bars.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<a name="fig_762" id="fig_762"></a><a name="fig_763" id="fig_763"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/775.jpg" alt="FIG. 762. WHEEL COMPOSED OF BUTTONHOLE BARS. +PASSING FROM ONE BAR TO THE OTHER." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 762. Wheel composed of buttonhole bars. +Passing from one bar to the other.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/776.jpg" alt="FIG. 763. WHEEL COMPOSED OF BUTTONHOLE BARS. +BARS AND RING FINISHED." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 763. Wheel composed of buttonhole bars. +Bars and ring finished.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Filling in round spaces</b> +(figs. <a href="#fig_764">764</a>, <a href="#fig_765">765</a>, <a href="#fig_766">766</a>).—The +stitches best adapted for filling +in round spaces are those that +can be drawn in and tightened +to the required circumference, +or those that admit of the number +being reduced, regularly, +in each round.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_764" id="fig_764"></a> +<img src="images/777.jpg" alt="FIG. 764. FILLING IN A ROUND SPACE WITH NET STITCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 764. Filling in a round space with net stitch.</span> +</div> + +<p>In tacking braids on to circular +patterns, the inside edges, +as we pointed out at the beginning of this chapter, have to be +drawn in with overcasting stitches in very fine thread.</p><p><a name="Page_467" id="Page_467"></a></p> + +<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_764">764</a> shows how to fill in a round space with net +stitches. It will be observed that the loop which begins the +row, has the thread of the loop with which it terminates, +wound round it, which thread then passes on to the second +series of stitches. In the same manner you pass to the third +row after which you pick up all the loops and fasten off the +thread by working back to the braid edge over all the rows +of loops, following the course indicated by the dotted line.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="fig_765" id="fig_765"></a><a name="fig_766" id="fig_766"></a> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/778.jpg" alt="FIG. 765. FILLING IN ROUND SPACES. +FIRST CIRCLE OF WHEELS BEGUN." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 765. Filling in round spaces. +First circle of wheels begun.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/779.jpg" alt="FIG. 766. FILLING IN ROUND SPACES. +THE TWO CIRCLES OF WHEELS FINISHED." title="" /> +<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 766. Filling in round spaces. +The two circles of wheels finished.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_765">765</a> shows how to finish a row of loops with wheels +worked upon three threads only. In the first row, you make a +wheel over each bar; in the second, you make a bar between +every two wheels; in the third, the wheels are only made over +every second bar; a fourth row of bars which you pick up +with a thread completes the interior of the circle, then you +work along the bars with overcasting stitches, fig. <a href="#fig_766">766</a>, to +carry the thread back to the edge of the braid where you +fasten it off.</p> + +<p><b><a name="Needle-made_picots" id="Needle-made_picots"></a>Needle-made picots</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_767">767</a>, <a href="#fig_768">768</a>, <a href="#fig_769">769</a>).—The edges +and outlines of Irish lace are generally bordered with picots, +which as we have already said can be bought ready-made +(see fig. <a href="#fig_692">692</a>). They are not however very strong and we cannot +recommend them for lace that any one has taken the pains +to make by hand.</p><p><a name="Page_468" id="Page_468"></a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/780.jpg" alt="FIG. 767. CONNECTED NEEDLE-MADE PICOTS." title="" /> +<a name="fig_767" id="fig_767"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 767. Connected needle-made picots.</span> +</div> + +<p>In fig. <a href="#fig_767">767</a>, the way to make +picots all joined together is +described. You begin, as in fig. <a href="#fig_762">762</a>, by a knot, over which the +thread is twisted as indicated in +the engraving.</p> + +<p>It is needless to repeat that +the loops should all be knotted +in a line, all be of the same +length and all the same distance +apart.</p> + +<p>Fig. <a href="#fig_768">768</a> represents the kind +of needle-made picots which most +resemble the machine-made ones, +and fig. <a href="#fig_769">769</a> show us the use of +little scallops surmounted by picots, +made in bullion stitch.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/781.jpg" alt="FIG. 768. ISOLATED NEEDLE-MADE PICOTS." title="" /> +<a name="fig_768" id="fig_768"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 768. Isolated needle-made picots.</span> +</div> + +<p>One or two rows of lace stitch +fig. <a href="#fig_736">736</a>, or the first rows of figs. +<a href="#fig_749">749</a>, <a href="#fig_750">750</a>, can also be used in +the place of picots.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/782.jpg" alt="FIG. 769. BUTTONHOLE PICOTS WITH PICOTS IN BULLION STITCH." title="" /> +<a name="fig_769" id="fig_769"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 769. Buttonhole picots with picots in bullion stitch.</span> +</div> + + +<p><b><a name="Irish_lace_pattern" id="Irish_lace_pattern"></a>Irish lace</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_770">770</a>).—English braids or those braids +which are indicated at the foot of the engraving must be tacked +down on to the pattern and gathered on the inside edge, +wherever the lines are curved, as explained in fig. <a href="#fig_693">693</a>; in cases +however where only Lacet superfin D.M.C<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> is used, the +needle should be slipped in underneath the outside threads, so +that the thread with which you draw in the braid be hidden.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/783.jpg" alt="FIG. 770. IRISH LACE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_770" id="fig_770"></a><span class="caption smcap">Fig. 770. Irish lace.</span> +</div> + +<p>The braids are joined together where they meet with a few +overcasting stitches, as shown in the illustration.</p> + +<p>Here, we find one of the lace stitches used instead of picots; +the first row of fig. <a href="#fig_736">736</a> always makes a nice border for Irish lace.</p> + +<p><b>Irish lace</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_771">771</a>).—This pattern, which is more complicated +and takes more time and stitches than the preceding one, +can also be executed with one or other of the braids men<a name="Page_469" id="Page_469"></a>tioned +at the beginning of the chapter; but it looks best made +with a close braid.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/784.jpg" alt="FIG. 771. IRISH LACE. +MATERIALS: Lacet surfin D.M.C No. 5, white or écru and Fil d'Alsace D.M.C +Nos. 40 to 150, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 50 to 150." title="" /> +<a name="fig_771" id="fig_771"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 771. Irish lace.<br /> +Materials</span>: Lacet surfin D.M.C No. 5, white or écru and Fil d'Alsace D.M.C +Nos. 40 to 150, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 50 to 150.</span> +</div> + +<p>The bars, which in the illustration are simply buttonholed +may also be ornamented with picots of one kind or another; +the interior spaces of the figure on the left can be filled, +instead of with corded bars, with one of the lace stitches we +have described, either fig. <a href="#fig_720">720</a>, <a href="#fig_721">721</a>, or <a href="#fig_732">732</a>, any one of which +is suitable for filling in small spaces like these.</p> + +<p>In the figure on the right, the ring of braid may be replaced +by close buttonhole stitches, made over several foundation +threads or over one thick thread, such as Fil à pointer D.M.C +No. 10 or 20<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> to make them full and round.</p> + +<p>You begin the ring on the inside and increase the number +of stitches as the circumference increases.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_471" id="Page_471"></a></p> +<p>Any of the stitches, from fig. <a href="#fig_720">720</a> to fig. <a href="#fig_743">743</a>, can be introduced +here.</p> + +<p><b>Irish lace</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_772">772</a>).—Here we find one of the fillings +above alluded to, fig. <a href="#fig_751">751</a>, used as a ground for the flowers and +leaves. For the design itself some of the closer stitches described +in this chapter, should be selected. When the actual +lace, is finished you sew upon the braid a thin cord, made of +écru Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C, as described in the chapter on +different kinds of fancy work. Cords of this kind can be had +ready made, but the hand-made ones are much to be preferred, +being far softer and more supple than the machine-made.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/785.jpg" alt="FIG. 772. IRISH LACE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_772" id="fig_772"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 772. Irish lace.<br /> +Materials</span>: English braid with open edge.—For the lattice work: Fil d'Alsace +D.M.C in balls Nos. 50 to 100 or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 50 to 100, white. +For the cord: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 15, écru.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p><b>Irish lace</b> (fig. <a href="#fig_773">773</a>).—This lace, more troublesome than +the preceding ones to make, is also much more valuable and +<a name="Page_472" id="Page_472"></a>effective. The ground is composed entirely of bars, like the +ones described in fig. <a href="#fig_761">761</a>, the branches, true to the character +of the work are worked in the close stitch represented in +fig. <a href="#fig_755">755</a>, and the flowers in double net stitch, fig. <a href="#fig_721">721</a>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/786.jpg" alt="FIG. 773. IRISH LACE." title="" /> +<a name="fig_773" id="fig_773"></a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 773. Irish lace.<br /> +Materials</span>—For the cord: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 15 to 25. +For the bars and lace stitches: Fil à dentelle D.M.C No. 200.<a href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></span> +</div> + +<p>In working the above fillings, the thread must not, as in +lace made with braid, be carried on from one point to the other +by overcasting stitches along the braid edges, but should be +drawn out horizontally through the cord and back again the +same way, giving the needle in so doing a slightly slanting +direction.</p> +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p class="center"><a href="./chapter_14.html">Next Chapter.</a></p> +<p class="center"><a href="./20776-h.htm#TABLE_OF_CONTENTS">Return to Table of Contents.</a></p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A" id="Footnote_A"></a><span class="label">[A]</span> See at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and sizes +and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.</p></div> +</div> +</body> +</html> |