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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Young Americans Abroad, by Various
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Young Americans Abroad
+       Vacation in Europe: Travels in England, France, Holland,
+       Belgium, Prussia and Switzerland
+
+Author: Various
+
+Editor: J.O. Choules
+
+Release Date: February 19, 2007 [EBook #20625]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK YOUNG AMERICANS ABROAD ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Frank van Drogen, Ralph Janke and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://dp.rastko.net,
+from images generously made available by gallica
+(Bibliotheque nationale de France) at http://gallica.bnf.fr.
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Cathedral Church of St. Gudule, Brussels]
+
+
+
+
+     YOUNG AMERICANS ABROAD;
+
+     OR,
+
+     VACATION IN EUROPE:
+
+     TRAVELS
+
+     IN ENGLAND, FRANCE, HOLLAND, BELGIUM, PRUSSIA
+     AND SWITZERLAND.
+
+     With Illustrations.
+
+     BOSTON:
+     GOULD AND LINCOLN,
+
+     89 WASHINGTON STREET.
+     1852.
+
+
+
+
+     Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1851, by
+
+     GOULD AND LINCOLN,
+
+     In the Clerk's Office of the District Court
+     of the District of Massachusetts.
+
+
+
+
+     STEREOTYPED AT THE
+     BOSTON STEREOTYPE FOUNDRY
+
+
+
+
+     TO
+
+     GEORGE SUMNER, ESQ.,
+
+     AS A
+
+     SLIGHT TRIBUTE OF GRATITUDE
+
+     FOR HIS KIND ATTENTIONS IN PARIS,
+
+     AND IN
+
+     ADMIRATION OF TALENTS DEVOTED TO THE INTERESTS OF
+
+     FREEDOM,
+
+     THESE LETTERS ARE RESPECTFULLY
+
+     DEDICATED,
+
+     BY HIS OBLIGED FRIENDS,
+
+     THE AUTHORS.
+
+
+
+
+     LIST
+
+     OF
+
+     ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     I. FRONTISPIECE--CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF ST.
+     GUDULE, BRUSSELS.
+
+     II. ICEBERGS SEEN FROM STEAMSHIP "ARCTIC,"
+     APRIL 6, 1851,                                    24
+
+     III. PORTRAIT OF THOMAS CHATTERTON,               56
+
+     IV. PORTRAIT OF ROBERT SOUTHEY,                   61
+
+     V. PORTRAIT OF SAMUEL TAYLOR COLERIDGE,           88
+
+     VI. VIEW OF ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL, LONDON,        148
+
+     VII. A FULL-LENGTH PORTRAIT OF DR. SAMUEL
+     JOHNSON,                                         150
+
+     VIII. VIEW OF THE POET'S CORNER, WESTMINSTER
+     ABBEY,                                           185
+
+     IX. VIEW OF THE COLONNE DE JUILLET,              196
+
+     X. VINTAGE OF THE RHINE,                         275
+
+     XI. VIEW OF A SWISS COTTAGE,                     305
+
+     XII. NAPOLEON'S SARCOPHAGUS,                     324
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+
+One evening last winter a few private pupils were sitting in the study
+of their instructor, when he stated his intention to pass the spring
+vacation in Europe, and his wish to have two or three of his young
+friends as his travelling companions. An earnest and joyous desire was
+expressed by each lad to enjoy the gratification, and in the course of a
+short period the arrangements were made which afforded him the pleasure
+to assure three boys that they should accompany him. The ages of the
+young travelers were twelve, fourteen, and sixteen. Their attention was
+immediately directed to a course of reading adapted to prepare them for
+the beneficial use of the proposed tour; and during its progress each
+boy kept a journal, which was useful as a reference in the
+correspondence kept up with friends and families at home. A companion in
+study, left behind, and prevented by duty from joining the party, wished
+to have constant advices of the movements of his friends; and the
+letters of the young travellers to a lad of sixteen are, at the advice
+of many friends, now submitted to the perusal of those at that age. No
+similar work is known to the authors of these letters; and at the
+forthcoming gift season it is hoped that the young of our country may be
+amused and gratified by these reminiscences of other lands.
+
+J.O. CHOULES.
+
+NEWPORT, R.I., Nov. 25, 1851.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+LETTER I.
+
+Arrival at New York.
+
+
+LETTER II.
+
+Going on board Steamer.--Arctic.--Weather.--Passengers.--Loss of Life
+and Burial at Sea.--Icebergs.--Sabbath at Sea.--Land.--Excellence of
+Collins Line.--Adelphi Hotel.
+
+
+LETTER III.
+
+Liverpool; Its Public Buildings, Docks, &c.
+
+
+LETTER IV.
+
+Birmingham.--Arrival in London.--Strand.--Temple Bar.--Fleet
+Street.--London Exchange.--London Coffee House.--Omnibuses.
+
+
+LETTER V.
+
+United States Minister in London.--His kind Attentions.--Crystal
+Palace.--London of other Days.--Monument.--The Bridges.
+
+
+LETTER VI.
+
+Villages.--Camberwel.--Accidents and Murders in England as common as in
+America.--Greenwich Fair.--Gypsies.
+
+
+LETTER VII.
+
+Great Western Railroad.--Swindon.--Bristol.--Scenes of early
+Life.--Ancient City.--Clifton and Hot Wells.--Redcliffe
+Church.--Chatterton.
+
+
+LETTER VIII.
+
+Bristol Cathedral.--Monuments and
+Inscriptions.--Butler.--Mason.--Southey.--Cloisters.--Mayor's
+Chapel.--Dundry.--Vine Prospect.--School attended in Boyhood.
+
+
+LETTER IX.
+
+Clifton.--Avon.--Hot Wells.--Vincent's Rocks.--Robert Hall.--Sublime
+Scenery.--Leigh Court Picture Gallery.
+
+LETTER X
+
+Bath.--Royal Crescent.--Queen Square.--Cathedral.--Hot
+Baths.--Bradford.--Trowbridge.--Devizes.--Cricket.
+
+
+LETTER XI.
+
+Tower of London; its History.--Horse Armory.--Antiquities and
+Curiosities.--Executions.--Regalia, &c.
+
+
+LETTER XII.
+
+Thames Tunnel.--New Houses of Parliament.--House of Lords
+described.--Fresco Paintings.--St. Stephen's Hall.--House of
+Commons.--Westminster Hall; its Associations, festive and criminal.
+
+
+LETTER XIII.
+
+British Museum; its fine Galleries, Pictures, Library, Autographs, and
+MSS.--The Place to study.--Lord Campbell.--Servant who resorted to it.
+
+
+LETTER XIV.
+
+Woolwich.--Naval Arsenal and Dock Yard.--Ships of War.--Yard.--Twenty
+Thousand Cannon.--Greenwich.--Blackheath.--Lee Grove.--Golden Cross and
+its Host.--Mr. Lawrence's Soiree.--Duke of Wellington.
+
+
+LETTER XV.
+
+Exhibition.--Season Tickets.--Wet Weather.--One May fine.--City
+Streets.--Throng around Palace.--Arrival of the Queen.--Opening
+Scenes.--Procession, &c.
+
+
+LETTER XVI.
+
+Fine Equipages.--Appearance of the Palace.--Walk through the
+Exhibition.--American Contributions.--Greek Slave, &c.--Mediaeval
+Court.--Kohinoor Glass Window.--Austrian Furniture.--Amazon of
+Kiss.--Crusaders.--Galleries.--Transept.--Glass Fountain.--
+Sculpture.--Veiled Vesta.--Machinery.--Models.--Model of
+Liverpool.--Plate Glass.--Taunton Cabinet--Steam Power, &c.
+
+
+LETTER XVII.
+
+Royal Polytechnic Institution.--Lectures.--Egyptian Hall.--Panorama of
+Overland Route to California.--Exeter Hall Sermons.--Wyld's great
+Globe.--Zooelogical Gardens.--Christ's Church Hospital; its Boys.
+
+
+LETTER XVIII.
+
+Windsor Castle; its History.--Interior of the Palace.--
+Pictures.--Waterloo Chamber.--St. George's Chanel.--Royal
+Tombs.--Edward IV.--Henry VIII.--Charles I., Discovery of his Body in
+1813, Account of the Appearance, &c.--Terraces of the Castle.--Eton
+College.--Datchett.--Great Park.--Long Walk.--Celebrated
+Trees.--Virginia Water.--Cumberland Lodge.--Frogmore.
+
+
+LETTER XIX.
+
+Sir John Soane's Museum, House, Antiquities, Pictures.--Hogarth's
+"Rake's Progress," and the "Election."--Wonderful Economy of Room,
+&c.--Greenwich; Hospital, Chapel, Paintings, and Statuary.--Queen's
+Stables; Horses, Harness Room, State Carriage.--Soyer's Symposium;
+Description of its Rooms.--Dinner there.
+
+
+LETTER XX.
+
+The Temple Church and its historical Associations.--Steamboat on
+Thames.--View of St. Paul's from River.--St. Paul's Cathedral; its
+Dome.--Statues: Johnson, Howard, Reynolds, Heber, West, Nelson.--Ascent
+of the Dome and Cross.--View of London.
+
+
+LETTER XXI.
+
+Westminster Abbey.--Early History.--Associations.--Poet's
+Corner.--Chapels.--Monuments and Effigies.--Coronation Chairs.--Stone
+of Scone Statuary.--Sermon in Abbey by Lord John Thynne.
+
+
+LETTER XXII.
+
+Hyde Park.--St. James's and Green Park.--Regent's Park.--Squares of
+London.--Northumberland House.--Sion House.--St Margaret's Church.--St.
+Martin's in-the-Fields.
+
+
+LETTER XXIII.
+
+Mission House.--Lord Mayor's Day.--Royal Exchange.--Bank of
+England.--London Docks.--Covent Garden Market.
+
+
+LETTER XXIV.
+
+Rev. Dr. Murray.--Dover Castle.--Passage across the Channel.--
+Calais.--St. Omer.--Douai.--Arras.--Amiens.--Clermont.--Paris.--
+Hotel Windsor.--A Mistake, and Loss of a Dinner.
+
+
+LETTER XXV.
+
+Gardens and Promenades.--Gayety.--Flowers.--Wrong Drawing-room.--Notre
+Dame.--Interior.--Sacristy.--Robes and Relics.--Hotel de Ville.--Louvre
+shut.--Paris by Moonlight.
+
+
+LETTER XXVI.
+
+Palais Royal.--Garden.--Gay Scene.--Passage d'Orleans.--House opposite
+to which Henry IV. was assassinated by Ravaillac.--Moliere.--Marat and
+Charlotte Corday.--Palace of the Luxembourg.--Paintings.--Gardens.--
+Statuary.--Chapel.
+
+
+LETTER XXVII
+
+Hotel de Cluny; History, Associations, Interior, wonderful
+Contents.--Julian's Palace of the Baths.--Mr. George Sumner.--Church
+of St. Sulpice.--Statuary.--Ecclesiastical Fountain.--Bibliotheque St.
+Genevieve.--Church of St. Etienne du Mont.--History.--Monuments of
+Racine and Pascal.--Christening an Infant.--Church of St. Germain des
+Pres, (oldest in Paris); its Restoration going on.--Tombs of Descartes,
+Mabillon, Montfaucon, &c.
+
+
+LETTER XXVIII.
+
+Jardin des Plantes; Situation, History.--Cedar of Lebanon and
+Palm-trees.--Menagerie.--Cuvier.--Museum of Comparative Anatomy,
+&c.--Paris owes much to Henry IV., Louis XIV., Napoleon, and Louis
+Philippe.--Pont Neuf.--St. Bartholomew's Massacre.--Bastile.--Column.
+
+
+LETTER XXIX.
+
+An amusing Fellow-countryman.--Pere la Chaise.--Monuments.--Abattoir.
+--Consul's Office; his numerous Calls.
+
+
+LETTER XXX.
+
+Cirque.--Amusements.--Champs Elysees.--Hippodrome.--Arabs.--Sabbath
+kept in Parlor.
+
+
+LETTER XXXI.
+
+Pleasant Company.--Railroad to Brussels.--Jemappes.--Mons.--Brussels;
+History.--Hotel de Ville.--Cathedral Church of St. Gudule; its
+Monuments.--First Communion.--Park.--Palace.--Hon. Mr. Bayard.
+
+
+LETTER XXXII.
+
+Lacework.--Money Matters.--An uncivil Banker.--Museum.--Paintings.
+--Burgundian Library.--Manekin.--Botanical Garden.
+
+
+LETTER XXXIII.
+
+Excursion to Waterloo.--Hongomont.--Relics.--Belgian Mound and
+Lion.--Ivy from Waterloo for Mr. J.P. Hall.--Church.--King Leopold.
+
+
+LETTER XXXIV.
+
+Laeken.--Vilvorde.--Mechlin, or Mallnes.--Antwerp; History.--Place
+Verte.--Statue of Rubens.--Cathedral of Notre Dame.--Interior
+Pulpit.--Pictures by Rubens.--Tower of the Church.--Quentin Matsys's
+fine old Houses.
+
+
+LETTER XXXV.
+
+St. James's Church.--Tomb of Rubens.--Paintings by Rubens and
+Jordaens.--Vandyke.--Mount Calvary.--Monk of La Trappe.--Museum.--Chair
+of Rubens; his Pictures.--Other great Works of Art.--St. Andrew's
+Church.--Bourse.--Mr. Vesey, U.S. Consul.
+
+
+LETTER XXXVI.
+
+Dock Yards at Antwerp.--Steamboat Passage on the Scheldt.--Dort.--Lost
+Villages.--Bergen op Zoom.--Van Speyk.--Rotterdam.--Erasmus.--Delft.
+--Hague.--Hon. George Folsom; his Kindness.--Scheveningen.--Museum.
+--Japanese Curiosities.--Historical Curiosities.--Gallery of Pictures.
+--Rembrandt, Paul Potter, Gerard Dow, &c.--King's Palace.--Brimenhoff.
+--De Witt.--Bosch.--John Adams's House.
+
+
+LETTER XXXVII.
+
+Dunes.--Leyden; History.--Harlem.--Church of St. Bavon;
+Organ.--Coster.--Flower Gardens.--Palace of late King.--Picture
+Gallery.--Exhibition of Pictures by living Artists.--Amsterdam.
+
+
+LETTER XXXVIII.
+
+Mr. J.G. Schwartze.--Stadhuis.--Churches.--Jews.--Picture
+Gallery.--Dutch School.--Columbus before the Council.--Artists' Club.
+
+
+LETTER XXXIX.
+
+Utrecht.--Lobith.--Ruhrort.--Meet with Americans on Return from the
+East.--Cologne; History.--Cathedral.--Three Kings.--Relics.--St. Peter's
+Church.--Crucifixion of Peter, by Rubens.--Champagne for America.
+
+
+LETTER XL.
+
+The
+Rhine.--Bonn.--Drachenfels.--Godesberg.--Rolandseck.--Oberwinter.
+--Okenfels.--Castle Reineck.--Neuwied.--A Raft.--Castle of
+Sain.--Ehrenbreitstein.--Coblentz.
+
+
+LETTER XLI.
+
+Coblentz.--The Moselle.--Excursion to Stolzenfels.--Curiosities.--Fine
+View.--Boat up to Mayence.--The Brothers.--Rheinfels.--Lurley
+Rock.--Seven Sisters.--Pfalz.--The Rheingau.--Falkenberg.--Rheinstein.
+--Assmanshausen.--Ehrenfels.--Mausetherm.--Bingen.--Geisenheim.
+--Johannisberg.--Erbach.--Biberich.--Mayence.--John Guttemberg's
+Statue--Austrian Troops.--An English Nobleman.
+
+
+LETTER XLII.
+
+Frankfort.--The Roemer; its Portraits of the Emperors.--Mr. Bethman's
+Gallery of Statuary.--Ariadne.--Jews' Quarters.--Darmstadt.--The
+Bergstrasse.--Heidelberg.--Castle.--Baden.--Kehl.--Strasburg.
+
+
+LETTER XLIII.
+
+Cathedral; Its History; Interior Clock.--St. Thomas's Church.--Kleber's
+Tomb.
+
+
+LETTER XLIV.
+
+Vosges Mountains.--Vineyards.--Colmar.--Muehlhausen.--Basle.--Black
+Forest.--United States Consul, Mr. Burchardt.--Cathedral.--Tomb of
+Erasmus.--Chapter House.--Holbein Gallery.--University.--Library.
+--MSS.--St. Jacob.--Tea Party.
+
+
+LETTER XLV.
+
+Moutiers Valley.--Sublime Scenery.--Domach.--Arch.--Roman
+Antiquities.--Berne.--Mechanical Clock.--Cathedral; Organ, Choir,
+Bears.--Lausanne.
+
+
+LETTER XLVI.
+
+Mountain Scenery.--Hotel Gibbon.--Episcopal Church.--Signal.--Hotel de
+Ville, and its kind Inhabitants.--Cathedral; its History.--Steamboat
+to Vevay.--Castle of Chillon.--St. Martin's Church and the
+Regicides.--Geneva.--Cathedral.--Museum.--Calvin's
+MBS.--D'Aubigne.--Gaussen--Malan.--Evangelical Association; its
+Anniversary.--Count George.--Soiree.--Mr. Delorme.--The
+Saleve.--Savoy.--Rousseau's Island.
+
+
+LETTER XLVII.
+
+Diligence for Dijon.--Fine Scenery.--Dijon; History.--Railroad to
+Paris.--Sens.--Cathedral.--Fontainebleau.
+
+
+LETTER XLVIII.
+
+Methodist Chapel.--Madeline.--Pantheon.--Louvre, open.--Statuary and
+Paintings.--Versailles.--Statuary.--Series of National
+Paintings.--Portraits of distinguished Men.--Apartments.--Gardens and
+Fountains.--Grand and Petit Trianon.--Passy.--St. Cloud.
+
+
+LETTER XLIX.
+
+Glass Depot--American Friends.--Good Intentions.--Hospital des
+Invalides.--Garden of the Tulleries; its Scenery.--Triumphal
+Arch.--Chapel of St. Ferdinand.--National Library.--A Tradesman's
+Memory.
+
+
+LETTER L.
+
+Calais; its Recollections.--Rough Passage of the Channel.--Dover.--Mr.
+Peabody's Entertainment on the Fourth of July described.--Company.--A
+patriotic Act.
+
+
+LETTER LI.
+
+Entertainment at the Belgian Minister's.--Young Nobility.--A noble
+Boy.--Craven Chapel.--Slavery.--Exhibition.--Pauper Labor.--Need of a
+Tariff.
+
+
+LETTER LII.
+
+Kind Friends at Bristol,--Weston Super Mare.--Museum of Baptist
+College.--Highbury Chapel.--Old Houses of Bristol.--Fine Churches.
+
+
+LETTER LIII.
+
+River Avon.--Wye.--Chepstow.--St. Aryan's.--Wynd Cliff.--Glorious
+Scenery.--Tintern Abbey; its History.--Ragland Castle;
+Appearance.--Marquis of Worcester.--Chopstow Castle.--Henry
+Marten.--Defence of the Parliamentary Party.--Severn River.--Old
+Passage.--Henbury.--Blaize Castle.--Birthday Lines.
+
+
+LETTER LIV.
+
+Leave Bristol.--Berkeley.--Cheltenham.--Birmingham; Manufactories.--Rev.
+John Angell James.--Mr. Vanwart.--Liverpool.--Chester; its
+Antiquity.--Cathedral.--Rows and Pillars.--Englishmen and Americans have
+much in Common.--Royal Agricultural Exhibition at Windsor.
+
+
+LETTER LV.
+
+Passage Home in the Steamer Atlantic.--Claims of the Collins
+Line.--Lessons taught by Travel in other Lands.--Our
+Comforts.--Excellent Character of many of the English Nobility.--Queen
+Victoria and Prince Albert.--Prospect of Affairs in Europe.--Popery as
+seen in her proper Territories.
+
+
+
+
+Young Americans Abroad.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 1.
+
+
+ASTOR HOUSE, NEW YORK, April 1, 1851.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+I have just arrived at this place, and have found my companions on hand,
+all ready for the commencement of the long-anticipated voyage. We regret
+the circumstances which render it your duty to remain, and we all feel
+very sorry for the disappointment of your wishes and our hopes. You
+will, however, feel happy in the thought that you are clearly in the
+path of duty; and you have already learnt that that path is a safe one,
+and that it always leads to happiness. You have begged us all to write
+to you as frequently as we can, and we have concluded to send you our
+joint contributions, drawing largely upon our journals as we move from
+place to place; and, as we have for so many years had pleasant
+intercourse in the family circle, we wish to maintain it by
+correspondence abroad. Our letters will, of course, be very different
+in their character and interest, because you will bear in mind that out
+ages are different; and we shall write you from a variety of points,
+some having a deeper interest than others. I trust that this series of
+letters will give you a general view of our movements, and contribute to
+your gratification, if not to your instruction. The weather is
+delightful, and we are anticipating a fine day for leaving port. It is
+to all of us a source of pain that we are deprived of your sunny smile;
+and while we are wandering far away in other lands, we shall often, in
+fancy, listen to your merry laugh; and I assure you, my dear fellow,
+that, wherever we rove, it will be amongst our pleasantest thoughts of
+home when we anticipate the renewal of personal intercourse with one who
+has secured so warm a place in our affections.
+
+Yours truly,
+
+J.O.C.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 2.
+
+
+ADELPHI HOTEL, LIVERPOOL, April 14.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+It is but twelve days since we parted, and yet we are actually in the
+old world, and the things which we have so often talked over on the
+rock-bound shore are really before me. Yes, we are on the soil of Old
+England, and are soon to see its glories and greatness, and, I fear, its
+miseries, for a bird's eye view has already satisfied me that there is
+enough of poverty. You know we left New York in a soaking rain, and the
+wind blowing fresh from the north-east. We all felt disappointed, as we
+had hoped to pass down the bay, so celebrated for its beauty, with the
+bright sunshine to cheer our way; but we had to take comfort from the
+old proverb, that "a bad beginning makes a good ending." James, George,
+and I had made up our minds to a regular time of sea-sickness, and so we
+hastened to put our state room into order and have all our conveniences
+fixed for the voyage. As soon as we had made matters comfortable, we
+returned to the deck, and found a most formidable crowd. Every passenger
+seemed to have, on the occasion, a troop of friends, and all parts of
+the immense steamer were thronged. The warning voice of _"all on shore"_
+soon caused a secession, and at twelve o'clock we had the great agent at
+work by which we hoped to make headway against wind and wave. The
+cheering of the crowd upon the wharf was hearty as we dropped into the
+river, and its return from our passengers was not lacking in spirit. The
+Arctic, you know, is one of the Collins line of steamers, and I was not
+a little surprised at her vast size and splendid accommodations, because
+I had only seen the Cunard boats in Boston, which are very inferior, in
+size and comfort, to this palace and tower of the ocean.
+
+We all anticipated a hard time of it, from the severe storm which raged
+all the morning, and I, in common with all the passengers, was delighted
+to find it any thing but rough water outside the Hook. We kept steaming
+away till we lost sight of land with the loss of daylight, and yet the
+sea was in less commotion than it frequently exhibits in Newport Harbor.
+The next morning, at breakfast, we had quite a fair representation at
+table, and I think more than two thirds presented themselves for duty.
+We boys were all on hand, and passed for "able-bodied men." The routine
+of life on board was as follows: We breakfasted at eight, lunched at
+twelve, dined at four, took tea at half past six, and from nine till
+eleven gentlemen had any article for supper they saw fit to order. This
+is quite enough of time for taking care of the outer man, and any one
+careful of his health will be sure to intermit one or two of these
+seasons. All the meals were excellent, and the supplies liberal. The
+tables present a similar appearance to those of a first-class hotel. In
+regard to our passengers, I think I can say, with confidence, that a
+more agreeable set of persons could not well have been gathered
+together. It really was a nicely-assorted cargo. We numbered one
+hundred and thirty, and the various parts of our country were all
+represented. Philadelphia sent the largest delegation; from that city we
+had more than twenty. I liked the looks of the passengers at the first
+glance, and every day's intercourse heightened my estimate of their
+worth and pleasantness. Amongst the company we had Professor Haddock, of
+Dartmouth College, going out to Portugal as _charge d'affaires_. He was
+accompanied by his lady and son. Then, too, we had the world-renowned
+Peter Parley, with his accomplished family circle. Mr. Goodrich, after a
+long life of labor for the youth of his country, for whose reading and
+instruction he has done so much, has been honored by the government of
+the United States with an appointment as consul at Paris. Mr. Goodrich
+resided there for two or three years, and was in Paris during the
+revolution of 1848. He seems fond of the company of young people, and we
+spent a great deal of time on board with him, listening to his stories,
+some made up for the occasion, and narrations of the events in February
+at Paris, and some capital anecdotes about the last war with England,
+during which he served his country in the army. The Hon. George Wright,
+of California, and her first representative in Congress, was also one of
+our party; and his glowing descriptions of the auriferous regions kept
+groups of audience for many an hour. The Rev. Arthur Cleveland Cox, of
+Hartford, favorably known as the author of some pleasant rhymes and
+sonnets, Mr. Cunningham, a southern editor, and several retired sea
+captains, all contributed to enhance the agreeableness of the voyage. I
+am sorry to tell you that, three days out, we had a sad occurrence in
+our little world. Just as we were sitting down to lunch at eight bells,
+the machinery stopped for a moment, and we were informed that William
+Irwin, one of the assistant engineers, was crushed to death. He
+accidentally slipped from his position, and was killed instantaneously.
+In less than half an hour he was sewed up in canvas, and all hands
+called to attend his funeral services! The poor fellow was laid upon a
+plank covered with the American flag, and placed at the wheel-house. The
+service was performed by Mr. Cox, in full canonicals; and I can assure
+you that the white-robed priest, as he issued from the cabin and
+ascended the wheel-house, really looked impressively. At the close, he
+was committed to the deep. What food for thought was here! A man in
+health and at life's daily task,--alive,--dead,--and buried,--all these
+conditions of his state crowded into thirty minutes! The poor man had a
+mother who was dependent upon him. Dr. Choules drew up a subscription
+paper for her benefit, and nearly five hundred dollars were at once
+raised for her relief. This unhappy event, of course, gave a sad
+damper to the joyous feelings which existed on board, and which were
+excited by our fine weather and rapid headway. On Sunday we had two
+sermons in the cabin to large congregations, all the passengers
+attending, with the officers and many of the crew. The morning service
+was by Dr. Choules, and the evening one by Mr. Cox.
+
+[Illustration: Four Positions of an Iceberg, seen 6th of April.
+Estimated Height, 300 feet. Lat. 43.04; long. 53.11; at Noon.]
+
+[Illustration: Icebergs seen from the Steamship "Arctic," on the Voyage
+from New York to Liverpool, April 6, 1851.]
+
+In the afternoon, April 6, we had the gratification to see a magnificent
+iceberg. We were in lat. 43 deg. 4', lon. 53 deg. 11' at twelve o'clock, and at
+three the ice appeared at about ten miles' distance. The estimated
+height was about three hundred feet. One if the passengers took a
+sketch. I also made one, and have laid it aside for your inspection.
+
+The berg had much the appearance of the gable end of a large house, and
+at some little distance there was another, of tower-like aspect, and
+much resembling a light-house. The effect of the sun upon it, as we saw
+it in various positions, was exceedingly fine. On Monday, the 7th, we
+saw a much larger one, with several small ones as neighbors. This was
+probably one mile in length, and about two hundred feet high.
+
+We saw several whales frolicking at the distance of a mile, and
+distinctly saw them spout at short intervals.
+
+After having had all reason to hope for a ten-day passage, we were
+annoyed for four or five days with head winds, materially retarding our
+headway. The evenings of the voyage were generally spent on deck, where
+we had charming concerts. Seldom have I heard better singing than we
+were favored with by eight or ten ladies and gentlemen. One universal
+favorite was the beautiful piece, "Far, far at sea." On Sunday, the
+13th, just after morning service, conducted by Mr. Cox, we made Mizzen
+Head, and obtained a magnificent view of the north coast of Ireland,
+which was far more beautiful than we had expected. The coast is very
+bold, and the cliffs precipitous, in many places strongly reminding us
+of the high lands of the Hudson. A more exquisite treat than that which
+we enjoyed all the afternoon in looking on the Irish coast I can hardly
+imagine. At night we had a closing service, and Dr. Choules preached.
+Every one seemed to feel that we had cause for thankfulness that we had
+been brought in safety across the ocean, and under so many circumstances
+of enjoyment We have made acquaintances that are truly valuable, and
+some of them I hope to cultivate in future life. One of the great
+advantages of travel, Charles, seems to be, that it enables us to
+compare men of other places than those we live in with our former
+acquaintances. It brings us into intercourse with those who have had a
+different training and education than our own; and I think a man or boy
+must be pretty thoroughly conceited who does not often find out his own
+inferiority to many with whom he chances to meet. On board our ship are
+several young men of fine attainments, who, engaged in mechanical
+business, are going out to obtain improvement and instruction by a
+careful study of the great exhibition. A number of gentlemen with us are
+young merchants, who represent houses in our great cities, and go to
+England and France twice and three times every year. Some of these are
+thoroughly accomplished men, and, wherever they go, will reflect credit
+upon their country. In no country, perhaps, do young men assume
+important trusts in commercial life at so early a period as in America.
+I have heard one or two Englishmen on board express their surprise at
+finding large business operations intrusted to young men of twenty and
+twenty-one; and yet there are some such with us who are making their
+second and third trips to Manchester, Leeds, Paisley, and Paris, for the
+selection of goods.
+
+I ought to tell you that, on the last day of the voyage, we had a great
+meeting in the cabin, Mr. Goodrich in the chair, for the purpose of
+expressing the satisfaction of the passengers with the Arctic, her
+captain, officers, and engineer. Several good speeches were made, and
+some resolutions passed. This has become so ordinary an affair at the
+termination of a passage, as to have lost much of its original value;
+but as this ship had an unusual number of passengers, many of them well
+known to their fellow-countrymen, and as great opposition had been
+displayed, on both sides of the ocean, to this line of steamers, it was
+thought suitable to express our views in relation to this particular
+ship and the great undertaking with which she is identified. Every man
+on board was satisfied that, in safety, these ships are equal to the
+Cunard line; while in comfort, accommodation, size, and splendor they
+far surpass their rivals. It really seems strange to us that Americans
+should think of making the ocean trip in an English steamship, when
+their own country has a noble experiment in trial, the success of which
+alone depends upon the patriotism and spirit of her citizens. The
+English on board are forced to confess that our ship and the line are
+all that can be asked, and I think that pretty strong prejudices have
+been conquered by this voyage. Every one left the ship with sentiments
+of respect to Captain Luce, who, I assure you, we found to be a very
+kind friend, and we shall all of us be glad to meet him again on ship or
+shore.
+
+On Monday, the 14th, at three o'clock, we took our pilot, and at eight
+o'clock we anchored off Liverpool, and a dark-looking steamtug came off
+to us for the mails, foreign ministers, and bearers of despatches. As
+we came under the wing of one of the last-named class of favored
+individuals, we took our luggage, and proceeded straight to the Adelphi
+Hotel. I ought to say that James was the first to quit the ship and
+plant his foot on Old England. It was quite strange to see it so light
+at half past eight o'clock, although it was a rainy evening. I shall not
+soon forget the cheerful appearance of the Adelphi, which, in all its
+provisions for comfort, both in the coffee-room and our chambers, struck
+me more favorably than any hotel I had ever seen. Although our
+state-room on board the Arctic was one of the extra size and every thing
+that was nice, yet I long for the conveniences of a bed-chamber and a
+warm bath. I am quite disposed to join with the poor Irish woman who had
+made a steerage passage from New York to Liverpool in a packet ship; and
+when landed at St. George's pier, and seated on her trunk, a lady who
+had also landed, when getting into her carriage, said, "Well, my good
+woman, I suppose you are very glad to get out of the ship?" Her reply
+was, "And indeed, my lady, every bone in my body cries out _feathers!_"
+
+
+Yours truly,
+
+WELD.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 3.
+
+
+LIVERPOOL.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+Well, we have fairly commenced our travel, and yet I can scarcely
+realize the fact that I am here in Old England, and that, for some
+months at least, I shall be away from home and the occupations of the
+school-room. The next day after landing we went to the custom-house to
+see our fellow-passengers pass their effects, and really felt glad to
+think of our good fortune in landing every thing at night and direct
+from the ship. It was an exciting scene, and I was not a little amused
+to observe the anxiety of the gentlemen to save their cigars from the
+duty imposed, and which amounts to nine shillings sterling per pound.
+All sorts of contrivances were in vogue, and the experiences of men were
+various, the man with one hundred, perhaps, being brought up, while his
+neighbor with five hundred passed off successfully, and, as he cleared
+the building, seemed disposed to place his finger on the prominent
+feature of his face.
+
+I quite like the appearance of Liverpool. After walking through the
+principal streets and making a general survey of the shops,--no one
+speaks of _store_,--I think I can testify to the extraordinary cleanness
+of the city, and the massiveness and grandeur of the public buildings.
+
+Our attention was first directed to the cemetery which had been
+described, you remember, to us one evening in the study. It is on the
+confines of the city, and is made but of an old quarry. I liked it
+better than any cemetery I ever saw; it is unlike all I had seen, and,
+though comparatively small, is very picturesque, I may almost say
+romantic. The walls are lofty, and are devoted to spacious tombs, and
+the groundwork abounds in garden shrubbery and labyrinth. Some of the
+monuments are striking. The access to this resting-place is by a steep
+cut through the rock, and you pass under an archway of the most imposing
+character. At the entrance of the cemetery is a neat chapel, and the
+officiating minister has a dwelling-house near the gate.
+
+I wish you could see a building now in progress, and which has taken
+twelve or fourteen years to erect, and from its appearance will not, I
+suppose, be finished in four or five more. It is called St. George's
+Hall. The intent is to furnish suitable accommodations for the various
+law courts, and also to contain the finest ball-room in Europe. It is in
+a commanding position. I know little of architecture, but this building
+strikes me as one of exquisite beauty. We obtained an order from the
+mayor to be shown over it and examine the works, and we enjoyed it very
+much. The great hall will be without a rival in England. The town hall
+is a noble edifice, and the people are quite proud of it. The interior
+is finely laid out, and has some spacious rooms for the civic revelries
+of the fathers of the town. The good woman who showed us round feels
+complacently enough as she explains the uses of the rooms. The ball-room
+is ninety feet by forty-six, and forty feet high. The dining and
+drawing-rooms are spacious apartments. On the grand staircase is a noble
+statue of George Canning, by Chantrey, whose beautiful one of Washington
+we have so often admired in the Boston State House. In the building are
+some good paintings of the late kings; one or two by Sir Thomas
+Lawrence. The Exchange is directly behind the hall, and contains in the
+centre a glorious bronze monument to Lord Nelson, the joint production
+of Wyat and Westmacott. Death is laying his hand upon the hero's heart,
+and Victory is placing a fourth crown on his sword. Ever since I read
+Southey's Life of Nelson, I have felt an interest in every thing
+relating to this great; yet imperfect man. You know that illustrated
+work on Nelson that we have so often looked at it contains a large
+engraving of this monument. As Yankee boys, we found our way to the top
+of the Exchange, to look at the cotton sales-room. This same room has
+more to do with our good friends at the south than any other in the
+world. The atmosphere would have been chilly to a Georgian planter, as
+cotton was down--down.
+
+The Necropolis is a very spacious burying-place, open to all classes,
+and where persons can be interred with the use of any form desired. The
+gateway is of stone, and not unlike the granite one at Mount Auburn; and
+on one side is a chapel, and on the other a house for the register. Not
+far from this we came to the Zooelogical Gardens, kept in excellent
+order, and where is a good collection of animals, birds, &c. The
+Collegiate Institution is an imposing structure in the Tudor style.
+
+St. George's Church, which stands at the head of Lord Street, occupies
+the position of the old castle, destroyed, I believe, more than one
+hundred and fifty years ago, and is a very graceful termination to one
+of the best business avenues of the city. Several of the churches and
+chapels are in good style. But one of the best buildings is--as it
+should be, in a city like this--the Sailor's Home, not far from the
+Custom House. This is a highly-ornamented house, and would adorn any
+city of the world.
+
+The Custom House is thought to be one of the finest buildings in the
+kingdom. It occupied ten years in its erection. It is composed of three
+_facades_, from a rusticated pavement, each having a splendid portico of
+eight Ionic columns. The whole is surmounted by a dome, one hundred and
+thirty feet high, and the effect of the building is excellent. The glory
+of Liverpool is her docks, and a stranger is sure to be pointed to the
+great landing stage, an immense floating pier, which was moored into its
+present position on the 1st of June, 1847. This stage is five hundred
+and seven feet long, and over eighty feet wide. This mass of timber
+floats upon pontoons, which have to support more than two thousand tons.
+At each end is a light barge.
+
+In the Clarence dock are to be found the Irish and coasting steamers,
+and to the north are the Trafalgar, Victoria, and Waterloo docks; the
+Prince's dock, and the Great Prince's dock basin. On the outside of all
+these is a fine parade, of about one half a mile, and which affords one
+of the most beautiful marine promenades in the world, and gives an
+interesting view of the Cheshire shore, opposite the city. The Prince's
+dock is five hundred yards long, and one hundred broad. Vessels, on
+arriving, discharge on the east side, and take in cargo on the west.
+Besides all these there is the Brunswick dock, Queen's dock, Duke's
+dock, Salthouse dock, &c.
+
+The Royal Liverpool Institution is a great benefit to the inhabitants.
+It has a good library, fine collections of paintings, and a good museum
+of natural history. Many of these paintings belong to the early masters,
+and date even before the fifteenth century. We were interested to find
+here a complete set of casts of the Elgin marbles. The originals were
+the decorations of the Parthenon at Athens, and are now in the British
+Museum. As we shall spend some time in that collection, I say no more at
+present about these wonderful monuments of genius. The Athenaeum and the
+Lyceum are both fine buildings, and each has a good library, lecture,
+and news rooms.
+
+We were disappointed at finding the Rev. Dr. Raffles, the most eloquent
+preacher of the city, out of town. He was the successor of Spencer, who
+was drowned bathing in the Mersey, and his Life by Raffles is one of
+deep interest. The great historical name of Liverpool is William Roscoe,
+the author of the Lives of Leo X. and the Medici. I must not omit to
+tell you that, during our stay, the town was all alive with a regiment
+of lancers, just arrived from Ireland, on their way to London. They are
+indeed fine-looking fellows, and are mounted on capital horses. I have
+watched their evolutions in front of the Adelphi with much pleasure, and
+have been amused to notice a collection of the most wretched-looking
+boys I ever saw, brought together by the troops. There seems to me more
+pauperism this week, in Liverpool, than I ever saw in New York in my
+life.
+
+
+Truly yours,
+
+JAMES.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 4.
+
+
+LONDON.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+Does it not seem strange that I am here in London? I can hardly tell
+what to write about first. I stand at the door of our hotel and look at
+the crowds in the streets, and then at old King Charles, at Charing
+Cross, directly across the road, and when I think that this is the old
+city where Wat Tyler figured, and Whittington was lord mayor, and Lady
+Jane Grey was beheaded, and where the Tower is still to be seen, I am
+half beside myself, and want to do nothing but roam about for a good
+month to come. I have read so much concerning London, that I am pretty
+sure I know more about it than many of the boys who have heard Bow
+Church bells all their lives. We left Liverpool for Birmingham, where we
+passed an afternoon and evening in the family of a manufacturer very
+pleasantly, and at ten o'clock took the express mail train for London.
+We are staying at a hotel called the Golden Cross, Charing Cross. We
+have our breakfast in the coffee-room, and then dine as it suits our
+convenience as to place and hour. We spent one day in riding about the
+city, and I think we got quite an idea of the great streets.
+
+The Strand is a very fine business street, perhaps a mile long. It
+widens in one part, and has two churches in the middle of it, and a
+narrow street seems built inside it at one place, as nasty, dirty a lane
+as I ever saw, called Hollowell Street. I was very much delighted at the
+end of the Strand to see old Temple Bar, which is the entrance to the
+city proper, and which divides Fleet Street from the Strand. It is a
+noble archway, with small side arches for foot passengers. The head of
+many a poor fellow, and the quarters of men called traitors, have been
+fastened over this gateway in former times.
+
+Dr. Johnson was once walking in Westminster Abbey with Goldsmith, and as
+they were looking at the Poet's Corner, Johnson said to his friend,--
+
+     "Forsitan et nostrum nomen miscebitur istis."
+
+When they had walked on to Temple Bar, Goldsmith stopped Johnson, and
+pointed to the heads of Fletcher and Townley, hanging above, and slyly
+remarked,--
+
+     "Forsitan et nostrum nomen miscebitur _istis_."
+
+I suppose you remember that the great dictionary man was a Jacobite in
+his heart.
+
+The present bar was put up in 1670, and was designed by Sir Christopher
+Wren. The statues on the sides, which are towards the city, are those of
+Queen Elizabeth and James I.; and towards the Strand, those of Charles
+I. and Charles II. They stand in niches.
+
+Whenever the monarch passes into the city, there is much ceremony takes
+place at the bar. The gates are closed, a herald sounds a trumpet and
+knocks for entrance, the gates are opened, and the lord mayor of London
+presents the sword of the city to the sovereign, who returns it to his
+lordship. The upper part of the bar is used by Messrs. Childs, the
+bankers, as a store room for their past account books.
+
+Fleet Street is thronged with passengers and carriages of all sorts.
+Just a few doors from the bar, on the right-hand side, is a
+gayly-painted front, which claims to have been a palace of Henry VIII.
+and the residence of Cardinal Wolsey. It is now used as a hair-cutting
+shop, up stairs. We went up and examined the panelled ceiling, said to
+be just as it used to be. It is certainly very fine, and looks as if it
+were as old as the times of bluff Harry. Of course we had our hair cut
+in the old palace.
+
+We followed through Fleet Street, noticing the offices of Punch and the
+London Illustrated News, till we came to Ludgate Hill,--rather an
+ascent,--which is the direct way to the Cathedral Church of St. Paul's.
+It stands directly in front of Ludgate Hill, and the churchyard occupies
+a large space, and the streets open on each side, making a sort of
+square called Paul's Churchyard, and then at the rear you go into
+Cheapside. We looked with interest, I can tell you, at Bow Church, and,
+as the old bells were ringing, I tried to listen if I could hear what
+Whittington heard once from their tingling--"Turn again, Whittington,
+lord mayor, of London." At the end of this street, on the right hand, is
+the lord mayor's house, called the Mansion House, and directly in front
+of the street, closing it up, and making it break off, is the Royal
+Exchange; whilst at the left is the Bank of England. All these are very
+noble-looking buildings, and you will hear about them from us as we
+examine them in our future walks. We went to the counting-house of
+Messrs. Baring & Co., the great merchants and bankers for so many
+Americans, and there we found our letters and got some money. Mr.
+Sturgis, one of the partners, told us to take the check to the bank, No.
+68 Lombard Street, and informed us that was the very house where the
+great merchant of Queen Elizabeth's time--Sir Thomas Gresham--used to
+live. He built the first London Exchange, and his sign, a large
+grasshopper, is still preserved at the bank. On Good Friday we had bunns
+for breakfast, with a cross upon them, and they were sold through the
+streets by children, crying "One a penny, two a penny, hot cross bunns."
+We took a carriage and rode to Camden town to visit a friend; thence we
+took the cars, to Hackney, and called on the Rev. Dr. Cox, who some
+fifteen years ago made the tour of the United States, and wrote a
+volume on our country. We then returned to London, and took our dinner
+at the London Coffee House, Ludgate Hill. This has been a very
+celebrated house for one hundred years, and figures largely in the books
+of travellers fifty years ago. It has a high reputation still, and every
+thing was excellent, and the waiting good. You cannot walk about London
+without observing how few boys of our age are to be seen in the streets,
+and when we asked the reason, we were told that nearly all the lads of
+respectable families were sent to boarding schools, and the vacations
+only occur at June and December; then the boys return home, and the city
+swarms with them at all the places of amusement. We seemed to be objects
+of attention, because we wore caps; (here boys all wear hats;) and then
+our gilt buttons on blue jackets led many to suppose that we were
+midshipmen. The omnibuses are very numerous, and each one has a
+conductor, who stands on a high step on the left side of the door,
+watching the sidewalks and crying out the destination of the "bus," as
+the vehicle is called. There is a continual cry, "Bank, bank," "Cross,
+cross," "City, city," &c. I must not forget to tell you one thing; and
+that is, London is the place to make a sight-seeing boy very tired, and
+I am quite sure that, in ten minutes, I shall be unable to do what I can
+now very heartily, viz., assure you that
+
+I am yours, affectionately,
+
+GEORGE.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 5.
+
+
+LONDON.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+After passing a day or two in a general view of the city, and making
+some preliminary arrangements for our future movements, we all called
+upon Mr. Lawrence, the minister of our country at the court of St.
+James, which expression refers to the appellation of the old palace of
+George III. Mr. Lawrence resides in Piccadilly, opposite the St. James's
+Park, in a very splendid mansion, which he rents from an English
+nobleman, all furnished. We were very kindly received by his excellency,
+who expressed much pleasure at seeing his young countrymen coming
+abroad, and said he was fond of boys, and liked them as travelling
+companions. I handed him a letter of introduction from his brother. Mr.
+Lawrence offered us all the facilities in his power to see the sights,
+and these are great, for he is furnished by the government of England
+with orders which will admit parties to almost every thing in and about
+London. Amongst other tickets he gave us the following admissions: to
+the Queen's stables, Windsor Castle, Dulwich Gallery, Woolwich Arsenal,
+Navy Yard, Sion House, Northumberland House, Houses of Parliament, and,
+what we highly valued, an admission to enter the exhibition, which is
+yet unfinished, and not open to inspection.
+
+After leaving the minister, we paid our respects to Mr. Davis, the
+secretary of legation, and were kindly received. We walked on from
+Piccadilly to the Crystal Palace, passing Apsley House, the residence of
+the Duke of Wellington, and soon reached Hyde Park, with its famous
+gateway and the far-famed statue of "the duke." As we shall go into some
+detailed account of the palace after the exhibition opens, I would only
+say, that we were exceedingly surprised and delighted with the building
+itself, and were so taken up with that as hardly to look at its
+contents, which were now rapidly getting into order. The effect of the
+noble elms which are covered up in the palace is very striking and
+pleasing, and very naturally suggests the idea that the house would, by
+and by, make a glorious green-house for the city, where winter's
+discontents might be almost made into a "glorious summer." A poor fellow
+was killed here, just before we entered, by falling through the skylight
+roof. He was at work on a plank laid across the iron frame, and that
+tipping up, threw him on to the glass, and his death was instantaneous.
+We are more and more pleased at having so central a domicile as the
+Golden Cross, for time is every thing when you have to see sights; and
+here we can get to any point we desire by a bus, and obtain a fly at any
+moment. Very much that we desire to see, too, is east of Temple Bar, and
+our Mentor seems determined that we shall become acquainted with the
+London of other times, and we rarely walk out without learning who lived
+in "that house," and what event had happened in "that street." I fancy
+that we are going to gather up much curious matter for future use and
+recollection by our street wanderings. A book called "The Streets of
+London" is our frequent study, and is daily consulted with advantage.
+To-day we dined at the famous Williams's, in Old Bailey, where boiled
+beef is said to be better than at any other place in London. It was
+certainly as fine as could be desired. The customers were numerous, and
+looked like business men. The proprietor was a busy man, and his eyes
+seemed every where. A vision of cockroaches, however, dispelled the
+appetite for a dessert, and we perambulated our way to the Monument.
+This has a noble appearance, and stands on Fish Street Hill. The pillar
+is two hundred and two feet high, and is surmounted by a gilt flame. The
+object of the Monument is to commemorate the great fire of London in
+Charles II.'s reign.
+
+It had an inscription which ascribed the origin of the fire to the
+Catholics; but recently this has been obliterated. It was to this
+inscription and allegation that Pope referred in his lines,--
+
+     "Where London's column, pointing to the skies, Like a tall bully,
+     lifts its head, and _lies_."
+
+There are few things in London that have impressed us more than the
+fine, massive bridges which span the Thames, and are so crowded with
+foot passengers and carriages. Every boy who has read much has had his
+head full of notions about London Bridge; that is, old London Bridge,
+which was taken down about thirty years ago. The old bridge was
+originally a wooden structure, and on the sides of the bridge were
+houses, and the pathway in front had all sorts of goods exposed for
+sale, and the Southwark gate of the bridge was disfigured with the heads
+and quarters of the poor creatures who were executed for treason.
+
+The new bridge was commenced in 1825, and it was opened in 1831 by
+William IV. and Queen Adelaide. The bridge has five arches; the central
+one is one hundred and fifty feet in the clear, the two next one hundred
+and forty feet, and the extreme arches one hundred and thirty feet. The
+length, including the abutments, is about one thousand feet, its width
+eighty-three feet, and the road for carriages fifty-five feet.
+
+The great roads leading to London Bridge have been most costly affairs;
+and I was told that a _parish and its church_ had been destroyed to make
+these approaches. The men of different generations, who, for almost one
+thousand years, looked at the old bridge, would stare at the present one
+and its present vicinity, if they were to come back again. Southwark
+Bridge was commenced in 1814, and finished in 1819. It has three arches,
+and the central arch is two hundred and forty feet, which is the
+greatest span in the world. In this bridge are five thousand three
+hundred and eight tons of iron. Blackfriars Bridge was commenced in
+1760, and opened in 1770. It has nine elliptical arches, of which the
+middle one is one hundred feet in width. Recently this bridge has been
+thoroughly repaired. I think this is my favorite stand-point for the
+river and city. Nowhere else have I obtained such a view up and down the
+river. Here I have a full prospect of the Tower, St. Paul's Cathedral,
+Somerset House, the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, and perhaps
+twenty-five other churches! But the great bridge of all is the Waterloo
+one, commenced in 1811, and opened in 1817, on the 18th of June, the
+anniversary of the battle of Waterloo. Of course, the Duke of Wellington
+figured upon the occasion. At this point the river is one thousand three
+hundred and twenty-six feet wide; and the bridge is of nine elliptical
+arches, each of one hundred and twenty feet space, and thirty-five feet
+high above high water, and its entire length two thousand four hundred
+and fifty-six feet. It is painful to hear the sad stories which have a
+connection with this magnificent structure. It seems the chosen resort
+of London suicides, and very frequent are the events which almost
+justify its appellation--"the Bridge of Sighs." I love to walk this and
+the other bridges, and look at the mighty city, and think of its
+wonderful history and its existing place in the affairs of the world;
+and I cannot help thinking of the reflection of the wise man--"One
+generation passeth away, but the earth remaineth." I have never felt my
+own insignificance so much, Charley, as when walking in one of these
+crowded streets. I know no one; I am unknown; I am in solitude, and feel
+it more, perhaps, than I should if alone upon a mountain top or in a
+wilderness. I am sure I have told you enough for once, and perhaps you
+are as tired of my letter as I was in going over the places I have
+written to you about; so I will relieve your patience.
+
+I am yours always,
+
+WELD.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 6.
+
+
+LONDON.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+All round London there are the most exquisite villages or towns, full of
+charming retreats, boxes of wealthy tradesmen, and some very fine rows
+of brick and stone residences, with gardens in front. I am amused to see
+almost every house having a name. Thus you find one house called, on
+the gateway, Hamilton Villa, the next Hawthorne Lodge, whilst opposite
+their fellows rejoice in the names, Pelham House, Cranborne Cottage; and
+so it is with hundreds of neat little domiciles. I think the road up to
+St. John's Wood is one of the prettiest I have seen; and there are in it
+perhaps two hundred habitations, each having its _sobriquet._ Since
+writing to you last we have been to Camberwell, a very pretty place, two
+or three miles from the city. We called on a gentleman who had a party
+that night, and we were politely invited, and spent an agreeable
+evening. The supper was elegant, and the ladies were quite inquisitive
+as to our social manners. One gentleman present had a son in Wisconsin,
+and he seemed to fancy that, as that state was in the United States, it
+was pretty much like the rest of the country. We told him that Wisconsin
+was about as much like New York and Massachusetts as Brighton, in 1851,
+was like what it was one hundred years ago. When we talk with
+well-educated persons here, we are much amused at their entire
+unacquaintedness with American geography and history. I think an
+importation of Morse's School Geography would be of great service. We
+very often lose our patience when we hear about the great danger of life
+in America. I find very intelligent and respectable persons who fancy
+that life is held by a slight tenure in the Union, and that law and
+order are almost unknown. Now, the first week we were in London the
+papers teemed with accounts of murders in various parts of England. One
+newspaper detailed no less than eleven oases of murder, or executions on
+account of murders. Poison, however, seems just at present the
+prevailing method by which men and women are removed.
+
+As to accidents in travel, we, no doubt, have our full share; but since
+our arrival in England the railroad trains have had some pretty rough
+shakings, and the results in loss of life and limb would have passed for
+quite ugly enough, even had they happened in the west. I very much wish
+you could have been with us on Easter Monday, when we passed the day at
+Greenwich, and were at the renowned Greenwich Fair, which lasts for
+three days. The scene of revelry takes place in the Park, a royal one,
+and really a noble one. Here all the riff-raff and bobtail of London
+repair in their finery, and have a time. You can form no notion of the
+affair; it cannot be described. The upper part of the Park, towards the
+Royal Observatory, is very steep, and down this boys and girls, men and
+women, have a roll. Such scenes as are here to be witnessed we cannot
+match. Nothing can exceed the doings that occur. All the public houses
+swarm, and in no spot have I ever seen so many places for drinking as
+are here. The working-men of London, and apprentices, with wires and
+sweethearts, all turn out Easter Monday. It seems as though all the
+horses, carts, chaises, and hackney coaches of the city were on the
+road. We saw several enormous coal wagons crammed tightly with boys and
+girls. On the fine heath, or down, that skirts the Park, are hundreds of
+donkeys, and you are invited to take a halfpenny, penny, or twopenny
+ride. All sorts of gambling are to be seen. One favorite game with the
+youngsters was to have a tobacco box, full of coppers, stuck on a stick
+standing in a hole, and then, for a halfpenny paid to the proprietor,
+you are entitled to take a shy at the mark. If it falls into the hole,
+you lose; if you knock it off, and away from the hole, you take it. It
+_requires,_ I fancy, much adroitness and experience to make any thing at
+"shying" at the "bacca box." At night, Greenwich is all alive--life is
+out of London and in the fair. But let the traveller who has to return
+to town beware. The road is full of horses and vehicles, driven by
+drunken men and boys; and, for four or five miles, you can imagine that
+a city is besieged, and that the inhabitants are flying from the sword.
+O, such weary-looking children as we saw that day! One favorite
+amusement was to draw a little wooden instrument quick over the coat of
+another person, when it produces a noise precisely like that of a torn
+garment. Hundreds of these machines were in the hands of the urchins who
+crowded the Park. Here, for the first time, I saw the veritable gypsy of
+whose race we have read so much in Borrow's Zincali. The women are very
+fine looking, and some of the girls were exquisitely beautiful. They are
+a swarthy-looking set, and seem to be a cross of Indian and Jew. Those
+we saw were proper wiry-looking fellows. One or two of the men were
+nattily dressed, with fancy silk handkerchiefs. They live in tents, and
+migrate through the midland counties, but I believe are not as numerous
+as they were thirty years ago. You will not soon forget how we were
+pleased with the memoirs of Bamfield Moore Carew, who was once known as
+their king in Great Britain. I wonder that book has never been reprinted
+in America. I am pretty sure that Greenwich Park would please your
+taste. I think the view from the Royal Observatory, and from whence
+longitude is reckoned, is one of the grandest I have ever seen. You get
+a fine view of the noble palace once the royal residence, but now the
+Sailor's Home. You see the Thames, with its immense burden, and, through
+the mist, the great city. As to the Hospital, we shall leave that for
+another excursion: we came to Greenwich at present merely to witness
+Easter Fair, and it will not soon be forgotten by any of us.
+
+Yours, &c.,
+
+JAMES.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 7.
+
+
+BRISTOL.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+As we had a few days to spare before the exhibition opened, we proposed
+to run down to Bristol and Bath, and pass a week. We took the Great
+Western train first-class ears, and made the journey of one hundred and
+twenty miles in two hours and forty minutes. This is the perfection of
+travelling. The cars are very commodious, holding eight persons, each
+having a nicely-cushioned chair. The rail is the broad gage; and we
+hardly felt the motion, so excellent is the road. The country through
+which we passed was very beautiful, and perhaps it never appears to more
+advantage than in the gay garniture of spring. We left Windsor Castle to
+our left, and Eton College, and passed by Beading, a fine, flourishing
+town; and at Swindon we made a stay of ten minutes. The station at this
+place is very spacious and elegant. Here the passengers have the only
+opportunity to obtain refreshments on the route; and never did people
+seem more intent upon laying in provender. The table was finely laid
+out, and a great variety tempted the appetite. The railroad company,
+when they leased this station, stipulated that every train should pass
+ten minutes at it. But the express train claimed exemption, and refused
+to afford the time. The landlord prosecuted the company, obtained
+satisfactory damages, and now even the express train affords its
+passengers time to recruit at Swindon. This place has grown up under the
+auspices of the railroad, and one can hardly fancy a prettier place than
+environs the station. The cottages are of stone, of the Elizabethan and
+Tudor style, and are very numerous; while the church, which is just
+finished, is one of the neatest affairs I have yet seen in England. The
+town of Swindon is about two miles from the station, and I expect to
+visit it in the course of my journey. You know, my dear Charley, how
+long and fondly I have anticipated my visit to my native city, and can
+imagine my feelings on this route homewards. We passed through Bath, a
+most beautiful city, (and I think as beautiful as any I ever saw,) and
+then in half an hour we entered Bristol. The splendid station-house of
+the railroad was new to me, but the old streets and houses were all
+familiar as if they had been left but yesterday. The next morning I
+called on my friends, and you may think how sad my disappointment was to
+find that a dangerous accident had just placed my nearest relative in
+the chamber of painful confinement for probably three months. It was a
+pleasant thing to come home to scenes of childhood and youth, and I was
+prepared to enjoy every hour; but I soon realized that here all our
+roses have thorns. Of course, in Bristol I need no guide; and the boys
+are, I assure you, pretty thoroughly fagged out, when night comes, with
+our perambulations through the old city and neighborhood.
+
+Bristol has claims upon the attention of the stranger, not only as one
+of the oldest cities in England, but on account of its romantic scenery.
+The banks of the Avon are not to be surpassed by the scenes afforded by
+any other river of its size in the world. This city was founded by
+Brennus, the chieftain of the Gauls and the conqueror of Rome, 388 B.C.,
+and tradition states that his brother Belinus aided him in the work. The
+statues of these worthies are quaintly carved on the gateway of John's
+Church, in Broad Street, and are of very great antiquity. In the
+earliest writings that bear upon the west of England--the Welsh
+Chronicles--this city is called _Caer oder_, which means the city of the
+_Chasm_. This the Saxons called _Clifton_. The Avon runs through a
+tremendous fissure in the rocks called Vincent's Rocks; and hence the
+name given to the suburbs of the city, on its banks--Clifton. Of this
+place we shall have much to tell you. Another Welsh name for the city
+was _Caer Brito_, or the painted city, or the famous city. Bristol, like
+Rome, stands on seven hills, and on every side is surrounded by the most
+attractive scenery. It has made quite a figure in history, and its
+castle was an object of great importance during the civil wars between
+Charles I. and his Parliament. This city stands in two counties, and has
+the privileges of one itself. It is partly in Gloucestershire and partly
+in Somersetshire. The population of Bristol, with Clifton and the Hot
+Wells, is about two hundred thousand. My first excursion with the boys
+was to Redcliffe Church, which is thought to be the finest parish church
+in England. This is the church where poor Chatterton said that he found
+the Rowley MSS. No one of taste visits the city without repairing to
+this venerable pile. Its antiquity, beauty of architecture, and the many
+interesting events connected with its history, claim particular notice.
+This church was probably commenced about the beginning of the thirteenth
+century; but it was completed by William Cannynge, Sen., mayor of the
+city, in 1396. In 1456, the lofty spire was struck by lightning, and one
+hundred feet fell upon the south aisle. The approach from Redcliffe
+Street is very impressive. The highly-ornamented tower, the west front
+of the church, its unrivalled north porch, and the transept, with flying
+buttresses, pinnacles, and parapet, cannot fail to gratify every
+beholder. The building stands on a hill, and is approached by a
+magnificent flight of steps, guarded by a heavy balustrade. In length,
+the church and the Lady Chapel is two hundred and thirty-nine feet;
+from north to south of the cross aisles is one hundred and seventeen
+feet; the height of the middle aisle is fifty-four, and of the north and
+south aisles, twenty-five feet.
+
+The impression produced on the spectator by the interior is that of awe
+and reverence, as he gazes on the clustered pillars, the mullioned
+windows, the panelled walls, the groined ceilings, decorated with ribs,
+tracery, and bosses, all evincing the skill of its architects and the
+wonderful capabilities of the Gothic style.
+
+The east window and screen have long been hidden by some large paintings
+of Hogarth. The subjects of these are the Ascension, the Three Marys at
+the Sepulchre, and the High Priest sealing Christ's Tomb.
+
+On a column in the south transept is a flat slab, with a long
+inscription, in memory of Sir William Penn, father of William Penn, the
+great founder of Pennsylvania. The column is adorned with his banner and
+armor.
+
+The boys, who had so often read of Guy, Earl of Warwick, and of his
+valorous exploits, were greatly pleased to find in this church, placed
+against a pillar, a rib of the Dun cow which he is said to have slain.
+
+You may be very sure that we inquired for the room in which Chatterton
+said he found old Monk Rowley's poems. It is an hexagonal room over the
+north porch, in which the archives were kept Chatterton's uncle was
+sexton of the church; and the boy had access to the building, and
+carried off parchments at his pleasure. The idea of making a literary
+forgery filled his mind; and if you read Southey and Cottle's edition of
+the works of Chatterton, or, what is far better, an admirable Life of
+the young poet by John Dix, a gifted son of Bristol, now living in
+America, you will have an interesting view of the character of this
+remarkable youth.
+
+[Illustration: Thomas Chatterton.]
+
+At the east end of the church is the Chapel of the Virgin Mary. A noble
+room it is. A large statue of Queen Elizabeth, in wood, stands against
+one of the windows, just where it did thirty-seven years ago, when I was
+a youngster, and went to her majesty's grammar school, which is taught
+in the chapel. I showed the boys the names of my old school-fellows cut
+upon the desks. How various their fates! One fine fellow, whose name yet
+lives on the wood, found his grave in the West Indies, on a voyage he
+had anticipated with great joy.
+
+I am glad to say that a spirited effort is now making to restore this
+gorgeous edifice. It was greatly needed, and was commenced in 1846. I do
+wish you could see this church and gaze upon its interior. I have
+obtained some fine drawings of parts of the edifice, and they will
+enable you to form some faint idea of the splendor of the whole. We have
+to dine with a friend, and I must close.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+J.O.C.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 8.
+
+
+BRISTOL.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+You have so often expressed a desire to see the fine cathedral churches
+and abbeys of the old world, that I shall not apologize for giving you
+an account of them; and as they are more in my way, I shall take them
+into my hands, and let the lads write you about other things. The next
+visit we took, after I wrote you last, was to the cathedral. This is of
+great antiquity. In 1148, a monastery was dedicated to St. Augustine.
+This good man sent one Jordan as a missionary in 603, and here he
+labored faithfully and died. It seems, I think, well sustained that the
+venerable Austin himself preached here, and that his celebrated
+conference with the British clergy took place on College Green; and it
+is thought that the cathedral was built on its site to commemorate the
+event. The vicinity of the church is pleasing. The Fitzhardings, the
+founders of the Berkeley family, began the foundation of the abbey in
+1140, and it was endowed and dedicated in 1148. The tomb of Sir Robert,
+the founder, lies at the east of the door, and is enclosed with rails.
+Some of the buildings connected with the church are of great antiquity,
+and are probably quite as old as the body of the cathedral. A gateway
+leading to the cloisters and chapter-house is plainly Saxon, and is
+regarded as the finest Saxon archway in England. The western part of the
+cathedral was demolished by Henry VIII. The eastern part, which remains,
+has a fine Gothic choir. This was created a bishop's see by Henry VIII.
+It is interesting to think that Secker, Butler, and Newton have all been
+bishops of this diocese, and Warburton, who wrote the Divine Legation of
+Moses, was once Dean of Bristol. The immortal Butler, who wrote the
+Analogy of Natural and Revealed Religion, lies buried here, and his
+tombstone is on the south aisle, at the entrance of the choir. A
+splendid monument has been erected to his memory, with the following
+inscription from the pen of Robert Southey, himself a Bristolian:--
+
+     Sacred
+     to the Memory of
+     JOSEPH BUTLER, D.C.L.,
+     twelve years Bishop of this Diocese,
+     afterwards of Durham, whose mortal remains
+     are here deposited. Others had established
+     the historical and prophetical grounds of the
+     Christian Religion, and that true testimony of Truth
+     which is found in its perfect adaptation to the heart
+     of man. It was reserved for him to develop its
+     analogy to the constitution and course of Nature;
+     and laying his strong foundations
+     in the depth of that great argument,
+     there to construct another and
+     irrefragable proof; thus rendering
+     Philosophy subservient
+     to Faith, and finding
+     in outward and
+     visible things
+     the type and evidence of those within the veil.
+
+     Born, A.D. 1693. Died, 1752.
+
+We noticed a very fine monument by Bacon to the memory of Mrs. Draper,
+said to have been the Eliza of Sterne. We hastened to find the
+world-renowned tomb of Mrs. Mason, and to read the lines on marble of
+that inimitable epitaph, which has acquired a wider circulation than any
+other in the world. The lines were written by her husband, the Rev.
+William Mason.
+
+    "Take, holy earth, all that my soul holds dear;
+      Take that best gift which Heaven so lately gave.
+    To Bristol's fount I bore with trembling care
+      Her faded form; she bowed to taste the wave,
+    And died. Does youth, does beauty read the line?
+      Does sympathetic fear their breasts alarm?
+    Speak, dead Maria; breathe a strain divine;
+      E'en from the grave thou shalt have power to charm.
+    Bid them be chaste, be innocent, like thee;
+      Bid them in duty's sphere as meekly move;
+    And if so fair, from vanity as free,
+      As firm in friendship, and as fond in love,--
+    Tell them, though 'tis an awful thing to die,
+      (Twas e'en to thee,) yet, the dread path once trod,
+    Heaven lifts its everlasting portals high,
+      And bids the pure in heart behold their God."
+
+In the cloisters we saw the tomb of Bird the artist, a royal
+academician, and a native of Bristol. We were much interested with a
+noble bust of Robert Southey, the poet, which has just been erected in
+the north aisle. It stands on an octangular pedestal of gray marble,
+with Gothic panels. The bust is of the most exquisitely beautiful
+marble. The inscription is in German text.
+
+     Robert Southey,
+     Born in Bristol,
+     October 4, 1774;
+     Died at Reswick,
+     March 21, 1843.
+
+[Illustration: Robert Southey]
+
+The cloisters contain some fine old rooms, which recall the days of the
+Tudors. Here we saw the apartments formerly occupied by the learned and
+accomplished Dr. Hodges, now organist of Trinity Church, New York. This
+gentleman is a native of Bristol, and is held, we find, in respectful
+and affectionate remembrance by the best people of this city.
+
+Opposite to the cathedral, and on the other side of the college green,
+is the Mayor's Chapel, where his honor attends divine service. In
+Catholic days, this was the Church and Hospital of the Virgin Mary. This
+edifice was built by one Maurice de Gaunt in the thirteenth century.
+Under the tower at the east front is a small door, by which you enter
+the church, and on the north another, by which you enter a small room,
+formerly a confessional, with two arches in the walls for the priest and
+the penitent. In this room are eight niches, in which images once stood.
+The roof is vaulted with freestone, in the centre of which are two
+curious shields and many coats of arms. In 1830, this chapel was
+restored and beautified. A fine painted window was added, and the altar
+screen restored to its former beauty, at the expense of the corporation.
+The front of the organ gallery is very rich in Gothic moulding, tracery,
+crockets, &c. It is flanked at the angles with octagonal turrets, of
+singular beauty, embattled, and surmounted with canopies, crockets, &c.
+The spandrils, quatrefoils, buttresses, sculptures, and cornices are
+exceedingly admired. The pulpit is of stone, and the mayor's throne, of
+carved oak, is of elaborate finish. Here are two knights in armor, with
+their right hands on their sword hilts, on the left their shields, _with
+their legs crossed,_ which indicates that they were crusaders.
+
+In every excursion around Bristol, the boys were struck with the fact
+that an old tower was visible on a high hill. The hill is called Dundry,
+and it is said that it can be seen every where for a circle of five
+miles round the city. Dundry is five miles from Bristol, and fourteen
+from Bath, and it commands the most beautiful and extensive prospect in
+the west of England. We rode out to it with an early friend of mine, who
+is now the leading medical man of Bristol; and when I tell you that we
+went in an Irish jaunting car, you may guess that we were amused. The
+seats are at the sides, and George was in ecstasies at the novelty of
+the vehicle. When oh the summit, we saw at the north and east the cities
+of Bath and Bristol, and our view included the hills of Wiltshire, and
+the Malvern Hills of Worcestershire. The Severn, from north to west, is
+seen, embracing the Welsh coast, and beyond are the far-famed mountains
+of Wales. The church has a fine tower, with turreted pinnacles fifteen
+feet above the battlements. We rode over to Chew Magna, a village two
+miles beyond Dundry. Here I went to a boarding school thirty-eight
+years ago, and I returned to the village for the first time. It had
+altered but little. The streets seemed narrower; but there was the old
+tower where I had played fives, and there was the cottage where I bought
+fruit; and when I entered it, Charley, I found "young Mr. Batt"-a man of
+eighty-six. His father used to be "old Mr. Batt," and he always called
+his son his "boy," and we boys termed him "young Mr. Batt." I came back
+and found him eighty-six. So do years fly away. I called on one old
+school-fellow, some years my junior. He did not recognize me, but I at
+once remembered him. We partook of a lunch at his house. I was sadly
+disappointed to find the old boarding school gone, but was not a little
+relieved when I heard that it had given place to a Baptist church. I
+confess I should have liked to occupy its pulpit for one Sabbath day.
+To-morrow we are to spend at Clifton, the beautiful environ of Bristol,
+and shall most likely write you again.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+J.O.C.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 9.
+
+
+BRISTOL.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+Clifton and the Hot Wells are the suburbs of this city, extending along
+for a mile or two on the banks of the Avon. One mile below the city the
+Avon passes between the rocks which are known as St. Vincent's on the
+one side, and Leigh Woods upon the opposite one. These rocks are amongst
+the sublimities of nature, and the Avon for about three miles presents
+the wildest and sweetest bit of scenery imaginable. These cliffs have
+been for ages the admiration of all beholders, and though thousands of
+tons are taken from the quarries every year, yet the inhabitants say
+that no great change takes place in their appearance. The Avon has a
+prodigious rise of tide at Bristol, and at low water the bed of the
+river is a mere brook, with immense banks of mud. The country all around
+is exquisitely attractive, and affords us an idea of cultivation and
+adornment beyond what we are accustomed to at home. In these rocks are
+found fine crystals, which are known every where as Bristol diamonds. We
+obtained some specimens, which reminded us of the crystals so frequently
+seen at Little Falls, on the Mohawk. The great celebrity of the Hot
+Wells is chiefly owing to a hot spring, which issues from the rock, and
+possesses valuable medical qualities.
+
+This spring had a reputation as early as 1480. It discharges about forty
+gallons per minute, and was first brought into notice by sailors, who
+found it useful for scorbutic disorders. In 1680 it became famous, and a
+wealthy merchant rendered it so by a dream. He was afflicted with
+diabetes, and dreamed that he was cured by drinking the water of this
+spring. He resorted to the imagined remedy, and soon recovered. Its fame
+now spread, and, in 1690, the corporation of Bristol took charge of the
+spring. We found the water, fresh from the spring, at the temperature of
+Fahrenheit 76 deg.. It contains free carbonic acid gas. Its use is seen
+chiefly in cases of pulmonary consumption. I suppose it has wrought
+wonders in threatening cases. It is the place for an _invalid_ who
+_begins to fear_, but it is not possible to "create a soul under the
+ribs of death." Unhappily, people in sickness too seldom repair to such
+aid as may here be found till the last chances of recovery are
+exhausted. I have never seen a spot where I thought the fragile and
+delicate in constitution might pass a winter, sheltered from every
+storm, more securely than in this place. Tie houses for accommodation
+are without end, both at the Hot Wells and at Clifton. This last place
+is on the high ground, ascending up to the summit of the rocks, where
+you enter on a noble campus known as Durdham Down. This extends for some
+three or four miles, and is skirted by charming villages, which render
+the environs of Bristol so far-famed for beauty.
+
+I never wished to have your company more than when we all ascended the
+height of St. Vincent's Rocks. The elevation at which we stood was about
+three hundred and fifty feet above the winding river which, it is
+thought, by some sudden convulsion of nature, turned from the moors _of_
+Somersetshire, its old passage to the sea, and forced an abrupt one
+between the rocks and the woods; and the corresponding dip of the
+strata, the cavities on one side, and projections on the other, make the
+supposition very plausible. A suspension bridge over this awful chasm is
+in progress.
+
+The celebrated pulpit orator, Robert Hall, always spoke of the scenery
+of this region as having done very much in his early days to form his
+notions of the beautiful. In one of his most admirable sermons, preached
+at Bristol, when discoursing upon "the new heavens and the new earth,"
+he indulged in an astonishing outbreak of eloquence, while he conducted
+his audience to the surpassing beauties of their own vicinage,
+sin-ruined as it was, and then supposed that this earth might become the
+dwelling-place of the redeemed, when, having been purified from all
+evil, it should again become "very good." Here, on these scenes of
+unrivalled beauty, Southey, and Lovell, and Coleridge, and Cottle have
+loved to meditate; and the wondrous boy Chatterton fed his muse amid
+these rare exhibitions of the power and wisdom of the Godhead. A Roman
+encampment is still visible on the summit of the rocks. We were all
+sorry, to see such havoc going on among the quarries, where, to use
+Southey's language on this subject, they are "selling off the sublime
+and beautiful by the boat load."
+
+[Illustration: Samuel Taylor Coleridge.]
+
+Our favorite walk is on the downs. George seems really penetrated with
+the uncommon beauty of the region, and wants to stop as long as
+possible, and does not believe any thing can be more beautiful. We look
+over the awful cliffs--gaze on the thread of water winding its devious
+course at an immense distance below--watch the steamers from Wales and
+Ireland shoot up to the city, and the noble West Indiamen, as they are
+towed along. The woods opposite are charming, and contain nearly every
+forest-tree belonging to the country. Dr. Holland, in his travels
+through Greece, refers to this very spot in the following language: "The
+features of nature are often best described by comparison; and to those
+who have visited Vincent's Rocks, below Bristol, I cannot convey a more
+sufficient idea of the far-famed Vale of Tempe than by saying that its
+scenery resembles, though on a much larger scale, that of the former
+place. The Peneus, indeed, as it flows through the valley, is not
+greatly wider than the Avon, and the channel between the cliffs
+irregularly contracted in its dimensions; but these cliffs themselves
+are much loftier and more precipitous, and project their vast masses of
+rock with still more extraordinary abruptness over the hollow beneath."
+We devoted a morning to visit Leigh Court, the residence of Mr. Miles, a
+wealthy merchant and member in Parliament for Bristol. This is regarded
+as one of the finest residences in the west of England. The mansion has
+an Ionic portico, supported by massive columns. The great hall is very
+extensive. A double flight of steps leads you to a peristyle of the
+Ionic order, around which are twenty marble columns, supporting a lofty
+dome, lighted by painted glass. The floor is of colored marble. This
+residence has been enriched with the choicest treasures from Wanstead
+House, and Fonthill Abbey. To us the grand attraction was the Picture
+Gallery, which has few superiors in the kingdom. A catalogue, with
+etchings, was published a few years ago. You may judge of the merits of
+the collection, and the nature of our gratification, when I tell you
+that here are the Conversion of Paul, by Rubens; the Graces, by Titian;
+William Tell, by Holbein; Pope Julius II., by Raphael; Ecce Homo, by
+Carl Dolci; Head of the Virgin, by Correggio; St. Peter, by Guido; St.
+John, by Domenichino; Creator Mundi, by Leonardo da Vinci; Crucifixion,
+by Michael Angelo; Plague of Athens, by N. Poussin; three Seaports, by
+Claude; and a large number by Rembrandt, Salvator Rosa, Paul Potter,
+Parmegiano, Velasques, Gerard Dow, &c. This has been a most gratifying
+excursion, and our visit here will be a matter of pleasant recollection.
+I forgot to say that at Clifton, and at various places near the rocks,
+we were beset by men, women, and children, having very beautiful
+polished specimens of the various stones found in the quarries, together
+with minerals and petrifactions. Of these we all obtained an assortment.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+J.O.C.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 10.
+
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+We have while at Bristol made two journeys to Bath, and I am sure we are
+all of opinion that it is the most elegant city we ever saw. A great
+deal of its beauty is owing to the fine freestone of which it is chiefly
+built.
+
+We were much pleased with the Royal Crescent, which consists of a large
+number of elegant mansions, all built in the same style. Ionic columns
+rise from a rustic basement, and support the superior cornice. These
+houses are most elegantly finished. All the city is seen from the
+crescent, and no other spot affords so grand a prospect. Camden Place is
+an elliptical range of edifices, commanding an extensive view of the
+valley, with the winding stream of the Avon, and the villages upon its
+banks. One of the principal features of Bath is its hills and downs,
+which shelter it on every side. The sides on these downs are very fine,
+extending for miles, and you see thousands of sheep enjoying the finest
+possible pasturage. Talking of sheep, I am reminded how very fine the
+sheep are here; it seems to me they are almost as big again as our
+mutton-makers.
+
+Queen Square, in Bath, pleases us all, as we are told it does every one.
+It stands up high, and is seen from most parts of the city. From north
+to south, between the buildings, if is three hundred and sixteen feet,
+and from east to west three hundred and six feet. In the centre is an
+enclosure, and in that is a fine obelisk. The north side of the square
+is composed of stately dwellings, and they have all the appearance of a
+palace. The square is built of freestone, and is beautifully tinted by
+age. The first thing almost we want to see in these fine towns is the
+cathedral, if there be one. I never thought that I should be so pleased
+with old buildings as I find I am. Old houses, castles, and churches
+have somehow strangely taken my fancy. The Cathedral, or, as they here
+call it, the Abbey Church, is a noble one. It was begun in 1495, and
+only finished in 1606, and stands on the foundation of an old convent,
+erected by Osric in 676. It is famous for its clustered columns, and
+wide, elegantly arched windows. The roof is remarkable for having
+fifty-two windows, and I believe has been called the Lantern of England.
+You know that the city takes its name from its baths. The great resort
+of fashion is at the Pump-room and the Colonnade. This building is
+eighty-five feet in length, forty-six wide, and thirty-four high. This
+elegant room is open to the sick of every part of the world. An
+excellent band plays every day from one till half past three.
+
+The King's Bath is a basin sixty-six feet by forty-one, and will contain
+three hundred and forty-six tuns. I have been much pleased with Dr.
+Granville's works on the Spas of England, and there you will find much
+interesting matter respecting Bath.
+
+We made some pleasant excursions in the vicinity of this beautiful city.
+We have visited Bradford, Trowbridge, and Devizes. Trowbridge is a fine
+old town, and we looked with interest at the church where the poet
+Crabbe so long officiated. His reputation here stands high as a good man
+and kind neighbor, but he was called a poor preacher. Here, and in all
+the neighboring places, the manufacture of broadcloths and cassimeres is
+carried on extensively. Devizes is a charming old town. We were greatly
+interested with its market-place, and a fine cross, erected to hand down
+the history of a sad event. A woman who had appealed to God in support
+of a lie was here struck dead upon the spot, and the money which she
+said she had paid for some wheat was found clinched in her hand. This
+monument was built by Lord Sidmouth, and is a fine freestone edifice,
+with a suitable inscription.
+
+Roundaway Down, which hangs over this ancient town, was famous in the
+civil wars of Charles I. Here, too, are the relics of an old castle.
+Devizes has two great cattle fairs, in spring and autumn; and the market
+day, on Thursday, gave us a good idea of the rural population. We have
+rarely seen finer looking men than were here to be seen around their
+wheat, barley, and oats. We have been pleased to see the great English
+game of cricket, which is so universally played by all young men in this
+country. It seems to us that the boys here have more athletic games than
+with us. Prisoners' bass seems a favorite boys' amusement, and ninepins,
+or, as we call it, bowls, are played by all classes freely, and it is
+not regarded as at all unministerial. We are going to London this week,
+and shall commence sight-seeing in earnest. Above all, we are to be at
+the exhibition. When I have seen the lions, I will write you again.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+JAMES.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 11.
+
+
+LONDON.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+The story goes that Mr. Webster, when he first arrived in London,
+ordered the man to drive to the Tower. Certainly we boys all wanted to
+go there as soon as possible. I do not think that I ever felt quite so
+touch excitement as I did when we were riding to the Tower, I had so
+many things crowding into my mind; and all the history of England with
+which I have been so pleased came at once freshly into my memory. I
+wanted to be alone, and have all day to wander up and down the old
+prison and palace and museum, for it has been all these things by turns.
+Well, we rode over Tower Hill, and got directly in front of the old
+fortress, and had a complete view of it.
+
+In the centre stands a lofty square building, with four white towers,
+having vanes upon them. This is said to be the work of William the
+Conqueror, but has had many alterations under William Rufus, Henry I.,
+and Henry II. In 1315, the Tower was besieged by the barons who made war
+on John. Henry III. made his residence in this place, and did much to
+strengthen and adorn it. About this time the Tower began to be used as a
+state prison. Edward I. enlarged the ditch or moat which surrounded the
+Tower. In the days of Richard II., when the king had his troubles with
+Wat Tyler, the Archbishop of Canterbury was beheaded on Tower Hill, or,
+rather, massacred, for it said that he was mangled by eight strokes of
+the axe. When Henry V. gained his great victory at Agincourt, he placed
+his French prisoners here. Henry VIII. was here for some time after he
+came to the throne, and he made his yeomen the wardens of the Tower,
+and they still wear the same dress as at that day. The dress is very
+rich,--scarlet and gold,--and made very large; the coat short, and
+sleeves full. The head-dress is a cap.
+
+We went in at what is called the Lion's Gate, because some time back the
+menagerie was kept in apartments close by. The kings of other days used
+to have fights between the beasts, and James I. was very fond of combats
+between lions and dogs in presence of his court. All these animals were
+moved several years ago to the Zooelogical Gardens. We passed through
+strong gates, defended by a portcullis, and on our left we saw what the
+warden called the Bell Tower, and which was the prison of Bishop Fisher,
+who was beheaded for not acknowledging Henry VIII. to be the head of the
+church. I wanted to see the Traitor's Gate, and found it was on the
+right hand, having a communication with the Thames under a bridge on the
+wharf. Through this passage it was formerly the custom to convey the
+state prisoners, and many a man in passing this gate bade farewell to
+hope.
+
+There is, just opposite to this gate, the bloody tower where Edward V.
+and his brother were put to death by the monster Richard, who usurped
+the throne. I would have given a great deal to have explored the Tower,
+but the things and places I wanted to look into were just what you are
+not let see. The old Tower of English history you look at, but must not
+go through. Still I have been delighted, but not satisfied. We found the
+spot where the grand storehouse and armory were burnt in 1841, and, if I
+recollect rightly, the warden said it was three hundred and fifty feet
+long, and sixty wide. Here, I suppose, was the finest collection of
+cannon and small fire-arms in the world. We saw some few fine specimens
+that were saved. Of course, we were curious to see the Horse Armory.
+This is a room one hundred and fifty feet in length, and about
+thirty-five wide. Some one has said that here is "the History of
+England, done in iron." All down the middle of the room is a line of
+equestrian figures, and over each character is his banner. All the sides
+of the apartment are decorated with trophies and figures in armor. I was
+much gratified with the beautiful taste displayed in the arrangement of
+the arms upon the walls and ceiling. Some of the suits of armor were
+very rich, and answered exactly to my notions of such matters. Here I
+saw, for the first time, the coat of mail; and I think the men of that
+day must have been stronger than those of our time, or they never could
+have endured such trappings. I was much pleased with the real armor of
+Henry VIII. This suit was very rich, and damasked. And here, too, was
+the very armor of Dudley, Earl of Leicester, who figured at the court
+of Elizabeth. It weighs eighty-seven pounds; and close by it is the
+martial suit of the unfortunate Essex. He was executed, you know, at
+this place, 1601. Among the most beautiful armors we saw were the suits
+of Charles I. and a small one which belonged to his younger brother when
+a lad. I think one suit made for Charles when a boy of twelve would have
+fitted me exactly; and wouldn't I have liked to become its owner! King
+Charles's armor was a present from the city of London, and was one of
+the latest manufactured in England.
+
+I do not think I ever was in a place that so delighted me. I cannot tell
+you a hundredth part of the curiosities that are to be seen s all sorts
+of rude ancient weapons; several instruments of torture prepared by the
+Roman Catholics, at the time of the Spanish Armada, for the conversion
+of the English heretics. One of these was the Iron Collar, which weighs
+about fifteen pounds, and has a rim of inward spikes; and besides, we
+saw a barbarous instrument, called the Scavenger's Daughter, which
+packed up the body and limbs into an inconceivably small space. We
+looked with deep interest, you may imagine, Charley, on the block on
+which the Scotch lords, Balmerino, Kilmarnook, and Lovat, were beheaded
+in 1746. The fatal marks upon the wood are deeply cut; and we had in our
+hands the axe which was used at the execution of the Earl of Essex. I
+shall read the history of this country, I am sure, with more pleasure
+than ever, after walking over the yard and Tower Hill, where so many
+great and good, as well as so many infamous, persons have suffered
+death. Only think what a list of names to be connected with the
+block--Fisher, More, Queen Anne Boleyn, Queen Catherine Howard,
+Margaret, Countess of Salisbury, Cromwell and Devereux, both Earls of
+Essex, the Duke of Somerset, Lady Jane Grey and her husband, the Duke of
+Northumberland, Sir Walter Raleigh, Strafford, Laud,--all perished on
+the Tower Green or on the Tower Hill. The spot is easily recognized
+where the scaffold was erected.
+
+The regalia, or crown jewels, are kept in an apartment built on purpose
+to contain these precious treasures. Here are the crowns that once
+belonged to different sovereigns and heirs of the throne. At the death
+of Charles I., the crown in use, and said to be as old as the times of
+Edward the Confessor, was broken up, and a new one made at the
+restoration of Charles II. The arches of this crown are covered with
+large stones of different colors, and the cap of the crown is of purple
+velvet. The old crown for the queen is of gold, set with diamonds of
+great cost, and has some large pearls. There is a crown called "the
+Diadem," which was made for James II.'s queen, adorned with diamonds,
+and which cost just about half a million of dollars. The crown of the
+Prince of Wales is plain gold.
+
+As for orbs, staffs, and sceptres, I can't tell you half the number. One
+I noticed called "St. Edward's Staff," of gold, four feet seven inches
+long. At the top is an orb and cross, and a fragment of the Savior's
+cross is _said_ to be in the orb. Here, too, are all kinds of
+swords--called swords of justice and mercy--and vessels to hold the oil
+for anointing the monarch at coronation, and a saltcellar of gold which
+is used at the same time, and is a model of the Tower. I thought all
+this very fine; but I was most pleased with seeing such splendid
+specimens of precious stones. Such diamonds, pearls, amethysts,
+emeralds, &c., &c., we Yankee boys had never seen, and probably may
+never see again. I was very much delighted with a large silver wine
+fountain, presented by Plymouth to Charles II., and which is used at
+coronation banquets; and also with the font, of silver gilt; used at the
+baptism of the Queen. It stands about four feet high. Over all this show
+that I have told you of is the state crown made for Victoria. This is
+very brilliant, and in the centre of the diamond cross is a sparkling
+sapphire, while in front of the crown is a large ruby which was worn by
+the Black Prince. Well, Charley, my boy, I would rather go to
+Washington and look at our old copy of the Declaration of Independence
+than gaze for a whole day at this vast collection of treasure. There is
+more to be proud of in that old camp equipage of Washington's up in the
+patent office than in all the crown jewels of England--at least, so I
+think, and so do you.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+GEORGE.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 12.
+
+
+LONDON.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+George has said his say about the Tower, he tells me; and I assure you
+it was a time that we shall often think of when we get back. On our
+return, the doctor proposed that we should visit the Thames Tunnel,
+which was not far off; and so we went through a number of poor streets,
+reminding us of the oldest parts of Boston round Faneuil Hall. The
+tunnel connects Rotherhithe and Wapping. This last place, you know, we
+have read about enough in Dibdin's Sea Songs, our old favorite.
+
+Several notions about this great idea have been entertained in past
+years; but in 1814, Brunei, the great engineer, noticed the work of a
+worm on a vessel's keel, where it had sawn its way longitudinally, and
+he caught an idea. In 1833, he formed a "Thames Tunnel Company," and in
+1825 he commenced operations, but it was not opened till 1843 for
+passengers. There are no carriage approaches to it, and it is only
+available to foot travellers. The ascent and descent is by shafts of,
+perhaps, one hundred steps. I think I heard that the great work cost the
+company, and government, who helped them, about half a million sterling.
+The passages are all lighted up with gas, and in the way you find raree
+shows of a dioramic character, and plenty of music, and not a few
+venders of views and models of the tunnel. After leaving this river
+curiosity, we went to see the new Houses of Parliament, which run along
+the banks of the river, in close neighborhood to Westminster Abbey. I
+felt disappointed at the first view, it is altogether so much like a
+very large pasteboard model--such a thing as you often see in ladies'
+fairs for charity. To my notion, the affair wants character; it is all
+beautiful detail. The length is about oho thousand feet. The clock tower
+is to be three hundred and twenty feet high. It is vain to describe the
+building, which is far too immense and complicated for my pea. I never
+was so bewildered in a place before. As I think you would like to have a
+correct idea of the House of Lords, I will quote from the description
+which was handed us on entering, but even then you will fail to
+understand its gorgeous character.
+
+"Its length is ninety feet; height, forty-five feet, and width the
+same; so that it is a double cube. It is lighted by twelve windows, six
+on each side, each of which is divided by mullions into four, these
+being intersected by a transom, making eight lights in each window,
+which are made of stained glass, representing the kings and queens,
+consort and regnant, since the Conquest. The ceiling is flat, and
+divided into eighteen large compartments, which are subdivided by
+smaller ribs into four, having at the intersection lozenge-shaped
+compartments. The centre of the south end is occupied by the throne,
+each side of which are doors opening into the Victoria Lobby. The throne
+is elevated on steps. The canopy is divided into three compartments, the
+centre one rising higher than the others, and having under it the royal
+chair, which is a brilliant piece of workmanship; studded round the back
+with crystals. The shape of the chair is similar in outline to that in
+which the monarchs have been crowned, and which is in Westminster Abbey,
+but, of course, widely different in detail and decoration. On each side
+of this chair are others for Prince Albert and the Prince of Wales. At
+the north end is the bar of the house, where appeals are heard, and the
+Commons assemble when summoned on the occasion of the opening of
+Parliament. Above the bar is the reporters' gallery, behind which is the
+strangers', and round the sides of the House is another gallery,
+intended for the use of peeresses, &c., on state occasions.
+
+"At the north and south ends of the house, above the gallery, are three
+compartments, corresponding in size and shape to the windows, and
+containing fresco paintings. Those at the north end are 'the Spirit of
+Religion,' by J.C. Horsley; 'the Spirit of Chivalry' and 'the Spirit of
+Justice,' by D. Maclise, R.A. Those at the south end, over the throne,
+are 'the Baptism of Ethelbert,' by Dyce; 'Edward III. conferring the
+Order of the Garter on the Black Prince,' and 'the Committal of Prince
+Henry by Judge Gascoigne,' by C.W. Cope, R.A. Between the windows are
+richly-decorated niches and canopies, which are to have bronze statues
+in them. In casting the eye round the whole room, it is almost
+impossible to detect scarcely a square inch which is not either carved
+or gilded. The ceiling, with its massive gilded and decorated panels,
+presents a most imposing and gorgeous effect, and one of truly royal
+splendor. The St. Stephen's Hall is ninety-five feet long, thirty feet
+wide, and sixty feet high; the roof is stone-groined, springing from
+clustered columns running up the side of the hall. The bosses, at the
+intersections of the main ribs, are carved in high relief, with
+incidents descriptive of the life of Stephen.
+
+"This hall leads through a lofty archway into the central hall, which
+is octagon in plan, having columns at the angles, from which spring ribs
+forming a grand stone groin finishing in the centre, with an octagon
+lantern, the bosses at the intersections of all the ribs elaborately
+carved. The size of this hall is sixty-eight feet in diameter, and it is
+sixty feet to the crown of the groin."
+
+The House of Commons, which is now in the course of completion, is quite
+a contrast to the splendor of the House of Lords. Its length is
+eighty-four feet; width, forty-five feet; and height, forty-three feet.
+An oak gallery runs all round the house, supported by posts at
+intervals, having carved heads, and spandrills supporting the main ribs.
+The strangers' gallery is at the south end, in front of which is the
+speaker's order gallery. At the north end is the reporters' gallery,
+over which is the ladies' gallery--being behind a stone screen. The
+libraries are fine rooms, looking out on the river. I have no time to
+tell you of the beautiful refreshment rooms, excepting to say that the
+one for the peers is one hundred feet long. I must not forget to say
+that in the tower is to be a wondrous clock, the dial of which is to be
+thirty feet in diameter! We went to see these buildings by an order from
+the lord chamberlain. The total cost is estimated at between eight and
+ten millions of dollars. It certainly is very rich, and looks finely
+from the river; but it is unfortunately too near to the abbey, and wants
+force. After leaving the Houses of Parliament, we went to Westminster
+Hall, which has some of the finest historical recollections connected
+with any public building in England. Really, I felt more awe in entering
+this hall than I ever remember to have experienced. I cannot tell you
+the size of it, but it is the largest room in Europe without a support,
+and the span of the roof is the widest known. The roof, of chestnut, is
+exceedingly fine. Only think, my dear fellow, what events have
+transpired on this spot. The following trials took place here: Stafford,
+Duke of Buckingham, for high treason, 1521; Sir Thomas More, 1535; Duke
+of Somerset, for treason, 1552; Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, for his
+attachment to Mary, Queen of Scots; Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex,
+1601, and Earl of Southampton; Guy Fawkes and the Gun-powder Plot
+conspirators; Robert Carr, Earl of Southampton, and his countess, for
+murder of Sir Thomas Overbury, 1616; Wentworth, Earl of Strafford, 1641;
+Archbishop Laud; Charles I., for his attacks upon the liberties of his
+country, 1649; the seven bishops, in the reign of James II.; Dr.
+Sacheverel, 1710; in 1716, the Earls Derwentwater, Nithisdale, and
+Carnwath, and the Lords Widdington, Kenmure, and Nairn, for the
+rebellion of 1715; Harley, Earl of Oxford, 1717; the Earls Cromartie
+and Kilmarnock, and Lord Balmerino, 1746, for the rebellion of 1745;
+Lord Lovat, 1747; William Lord Byron, for the death of William Chaworth
+in a bloody duel, 1765; Lord Ferrers, for the murder of his steward; the
+infamous Duchess of Kingston, for bigamy, 1776; and Warren Hastings, for
+cruelty in his office as Governor of India, 1788.
+
+And besides all this, here have been the coronation feasts of all
+England's monarchs, from William Rufus, who built it in 1099, down to
+George IV., 1820. Sad times and merry ones have been here. We stepped
+from the hall into the courts of law, which have entrances from this
+apartment, and we saw the lord chancellor on the bench in one, and the
+judges sitting in another. The courts were small, and not very imposing
+in their appearance.
+
+Yours truly,
+
+JAMES.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 13.
+
+
+LONDON.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+O, we have had a noble treat; and how I longed for your company, as we
+spent hour after hour in the British Museum. The building is very fine,
+but the inside--that is every thing. The entire front is, I think, about
+four hundred feet, and I reckoned forty-four columns forming a
+colonnade; these are forty-five feet high. The portico is now receiving
+magnificent sculpture in relief; and when the whole is finished, and the
+colossal statues surmount the pediment, and the fine iron palisadoes,
+now erecting, are completed, I think the edifice will be among the
+finest in the world. The entrance hall is most imposing, and the ceiling
+is richly painted in encaustic. The staircases are very grand, and their
+side walls are cased with red Aberdeen granite, brought to an exquisite
+polish. To describe the British Museum would be a vain attempt. In the
+hall are several fine statues. Especially did we admire the one of
+Shakspeare by Roubilliac, and given by Garrick. We soon found our way to
+the Nineveh Gallery, and were wide awake to look after the relics of
+Nineveh dug up by Layard on the banks of the Tigris. Here is a monstrous
+human head, having bull's horns and ears, many fragments of horses'
+heads, bulls, &c., &c. The colossal figure of the king is very grand,
+and discovers great art. There is also a fine colossal priest, and the
+war sculptures are of the deepest interest. Then we went to the Lycian
+Room. The sculptures here were found at Xanthus, in Lycia. These ruins
+claim a date of five hundred years before Christ. Here are some
+exquisite fragments of frieze, describing processions, entertainments,
+sacrifices, and female figures of great beauty.
+
+In the Grand Saloon are numerous Roman remains of sculpture. In the
+Phigalian Saloon are marbles found at a temple of Apollo, near Phigalia,
+in Arcadia, in 1814. The Elgin Saloon is devoted to the magnificent
+marbles taken in 1804, from temples at Athens, by the Earl of Elgin, and
+were purchased by Parliament for thirty-five thousand pounds. They are
+chiefly ornaments from the Parthenon, a Doric temple built in the time
+of Pericles, B.C. 450, by Phidias. No one can fail to be impressed with
+the great beauty of these conceptions. The famous Sigean inscription is
+written in the most ancient of Greek letters, boustrophedon-wise; that
+is, the lines follow each other as oxen turn from one furrow to another
+in ploughing.
+
+There are five galleries devoted to natural history, and are named thus:
+the Botanical Museum, Mammalia Gallery, Eastern Zooelogical Gallery,
+Northern Zooelogical Gallery, and the Mineral Gallery. The specimens in
+all these are very fine. Nothing can be finer than the mammalia. The
+preservation has been perfect, and far surpasses what I have been
+accustomed to see in museums, where decay seems to be often rioting upon
+the remains of nature. The department of ornithology is wonderful, and I
+could have enjoyed a whole day in examining the birds of all climates.
+In conchology the collection is very rich. I do not often get such a
+gratification as I had among the portraits which are hanging on the
+walls of these galleries. The very men I had heard so much of, and read
+about, were here lifelike, painted by the best artists of their day. I
+was much pleased with the picture of Mary, Queen of Scots, by Jansen; of
+Cromwell, by Walker; of Queen Elizabeth, by Zucchero; of Charles II., by
+Lely; of Sir Isaac Newton; of Lord Bacon; of Voltaire; of John
+Guttenburg; and of Archbishop Cranmer. As to the library and the MSS.,
+what shall I say? The collection of books is the largest in the kingdom,
+and valuable beyond calculation. It amounts to seven hundred thousand.
+We looked at illuminated gospels, Bibles, missals, till we were
+bewildered with the gold and purple splendor; and then we walked from
+one glass case to another, gazing upon autographs that made us
+heart-sick when we thought of our juvenile treasures in this line. If
+ever I did covet any thing, it was some old scraps of paper which had
+the handwriting of Milton, Cromwell, Luther, Melancthon, Erasmus, and a
+long _et caetera_ of such worthies. You know how much we love medals and
+coins; well, here we revelled to our heart's delight. Country after
+country has its history here, beautifully illustrated. The museum has
+two spacious rooms devoted to reading, and the access to these treasures
+is very liberal.
+
+If I could stay in London one year, I should certainly propose to spend
+three or four months in study and research at the British Museum; nor do
+I imagine that it would be lost time. It seems to me that such a place
+must make scholars; but I know, by my own painful recollection, that
+opportunities for improvement are not always valued as they should be. I
+have been much struck lately with the thought that men of leisure are
+not the men who do much in literature. It never has been so. Here and
+there a rich man cultivates his mind; but it is your busy men who leave
+the mark upon the age.
+
+While in the museum, we were shown Lord Chief Justice Campbell, the
+author of the Lives of the Chancellors, &c. He is a working-man, if
+there be one in England, and yet he finds time to elaborate volume upon
+volume. I feel ashamed when I think how little I have acquired, how very
+little I know that I might have understood, and what immensely larger
+acquisitions have been made by those who have never enjoyed half my
+advantages. There is a boy, only fifteen, who resorts to this museum,
+and is said to understand its contents better than most of its visitors;
+and a livery servant, some few years ago, used to spend all his hours of
+leisure here, and wrote some excellent papers upon historical subjects.
+If I have gained any good by my journey yet, it is the conviction, I
+feel growing stronger every day, that I must work, and that every one
+must work, in order to excel. It seems to me that we are in a fair way
+to learn much in our present tour, for every day's excursion becomes a
+matter of regular study when we come to our journal, which is now kept
+posted up daily, as a thing of course. We are trying, at all events, to
+make ourselves so familiar with the great attractions of London, that in
+future life we may understand the affairs of the city when we hear of
+them.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+WELD.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 14.
+
+
+LONDON.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+Ever since we reached London, I have wanted to go to Woolwich, the great
+naval arsenal and dockyard, because I expected I should obtain a pretty
+good idea of the power of the British navy; and then I like to compare
+such places with our own; and I have often, at Brooklyn Navy Yard,
+thought how much I should like to see Woolwich. Woolwich is one the
+Thames, and about ten miles from the city. You can go at any hour by
+steamer from London Bridge, or take the railway from the Surrey side of
+the bridge. We were furnished with a ticket of admission from our
+minister; but unfortunately, we came on a day when the yard was closed
+by order. We were sadly disappointed, but the doorkeeper, a very
+respectable police officer, told us that our only recourse was to call
+on the commanding officer, who lived a mile off, and he kindly gave us a
+policeman as a guide. On our way, we met the general on horseback,
+attended by some other officers. We accosted him, and told our case. He
+seemed sorry, but said the yard was closed. As soon as we mentioned that
+we came from America, he at once gave orders for our admission, and was
+very polite. Indeed, on several occasions we have found that our being
+from the United States has proved quite a passport.
+
+We had a special government order to go over all the workshops and see
+the steam power, &c., &c. I think I shall not soon forget the wonderful
+smithery where the Nasmyth hammers are at work, employed in forging
+chain cables and all sorts of iron work for the men-of-war. We went in
+succession through the founderies for iron and brass, the steam boiler
+manufactory, and saw the planing machines and lathes; and as to all the
+other shops and factories, I can only say, that the yard looked like a
+city.
+
+We were much pleased with the ships now in progress. One was the screw
+steamer, the Agamemnon, to have eighty-guns. There, too, is the Royal
+Albert, of one hundred and twenty guns, which they call the largest ship
+in the world. Of course, we think this doubtful. It has been nine years
+in progress, and will not be finished for three more. It is to be
+launched when the Prince of Wales attains the rank of post captain. We
+saw, among many other curiosities, the boat in which Sir John Ross was
+out twenty-seven days in the ice. We went into an immense building
+devoted to military stores, and in one room we saw the entire
+accoutrements for ten thousand cavalry, including bridles, saddles, and
+stirrups, holsters, &c.
+
+The yard is a very large affair, containing very many acres; it is the
+depository of the cannon belonging to the army and navy for all the
+region, and there were more than twenty thousand pieces lying upon the
+ground. Some were very large, and they were of all varieties known in
+war.
+
+After a delightful hour spent in listening to the best martial music I
+ever heard played, by the band, we took steamboat for Greenwich, and,
+landing there, walked to Blackheath, where we had an engagement to dine
+at Lee Grove with a London merchant. Here we had a fine opportunity to
+witness the luxury and elegance of English social life. This gentleman,
+now in the decline of life, has an exquisitely beautiful place, situated
+in a park of some sixty acres. The railroad has been run through his
+estate, and, of course, has made it very much more valuable for
+building; but as it injures the park for the embellishment of the
+mansion, it was a fair subject for damages, and the jury of reference
+gave its proprietor the pretty verdict of eleven thousand pounds. At the
+table we had the finest dessert which the hothouse can furnish. Our host
+gave us a very interesting account of his travels in America more than
+forty years ago. A journey from New York to Niagara, as related by this
+traveller, was then far more of an undertaking than a journey from New
+Orleans to New York, and a voyage thence to England, at the present
+time.
+
+In the evening, we took the cars for London, and reached our comfortable
+hotel, the Golden Cross, Charing Cross, at eleven o'clock. By the way,
+we are all very much pleased with the house and its landlord. Mr.
+Gardiner is a very gentlemanly man, of fine address and acquirements. He
+has been a most extensive traveller in almost every part of the world,
+and has a fine collection of paintings, and one of the prettiest
+cabinets of coins and medals I ever saw. He has a pretty cottage and
+hothouses four or five miles from the city; and his family resides
+partly there and at the hotel. The hotel is every thing that can be
+desired.
+
+A few evenings ago, Mr. Lawrence had a splendid _soiree_. There were
+probably from two to three hundred present. Among the company were Sir
+David Brewster, Leslie the artist, Miss Coutts, the Duke of Wellington.
+"The duke," as he is called, is the great man of England. All the people
+idolize him, and he is known to be a great man. He has become more
+identified with the history of England for the last forty years than any
+other man. Of course, he was to us Americans the great man of the
+country. Whenever I have read of Napoleon, I have had Wellington in my
+eye, and to see him was next to seeing the emperor. I never expected the
+pleasure, but here it is allotted me. He is quite an old man in his
+bearing and gait. He was dressed in a blue coat with metal buttons, wore
+his star and garter, and had on black tights and shoes. He had been to
+the opera, and then came to this party. Every one pays the most
+deferential homage to the old hero. Waterloo and its eventful scenes
+came directly before me, and I felt almost impatient for our visit to
+the battle-field.
+
+A gentleman who knows the duke told us that he spends from four to five
+hours every morning at the Horse Guards in the performance of his duties
+as commander-in-chief. Although he looks so feeble in the drawing-room,
+he sits finely on his horse; and when I saw him riding down Piccadilly,
+he seemed to be full twenty years younger than he was the day before at
+the party.
+
+We shall always be glad that we came to England in time to see "the
+duke," and if we live twenty or thirty years, it will be pleasant to
+say "I have seen the Duke of Wellington."
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+GEORGE.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 15.
+
+
+LONDON.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+I know how curious you are to hear all about the royal exhibition, so I
+shall do my best to give you such an account of our visits to it as may
+enable you to get a bird's eye view of the affair.
+
+Almost as soon as I arrived, I determined upon securing season tickets
+for the boys, in order that they might not only see the pageant of the
+opening on the 1st of May, but also have frequent opportunities to
+attend the building and study its contents before the reduced prices
+should so crowd the palace as to render examination and study nearly
+impracticable. However, there came a report through all the daily papers
+that the queen had abandoned the idea of going in person to inaugurate
+the exhibition, and the sale of tickets flagged, and it was thought
+prices would be reduced below the three guineas, which had been the
+rate. I left London for a few days without purchasing, and on my return
+I called for four season tickets, when, to my surprise, I was told that,
+just an hour before, orders had been given from the board to raise them
+to four guineas. I at once purchased them, although I regarded the
+matter as an imposition. A few days after, Prince Albert revoked the
+action of the board, and orders were issued to refund the extra guinea
+to all who had purchased at the advanced price. This was easily
+ascertained by reference to the number on the ticket, and registered at
+purchase with the autograph of the proprietor. Of course, we saved our
+four guineas.
+
+For several days before the 1st of May all London, I may say all
+England, and almost all the world was on tiptoe. Every man, woman, and
+child talked of "the Crystal Palace, the great exhibition, the queen,
+and prince Albert."
+
+For a week or two there had been a succession of cold rain storms.
+Winter had lingered in the lap of April. Men were looking at the 1st of
+May with gloomy anticipations of hail, rain, snow, and sleet. Barometers
+were in demand. The 30th of April gave a hail storm! The 1st of May
+arrives,--_the day,_--and lo!
+
+    "Heaven is clear,
+    And all the clouds are gone."
+
+It was as though the windows of heaven were opened to let the glory from
+above stream through and bless Industry's children, who are about to
+celebrate their jubilee. The queen, it is said, has a charm as regards
+the weather. I heard many exclaim, "It is the queen's weather; it is
+always her luck." Such a sight as that day afforded was never before
+witnessed, and such a spectacle will probably never again be gazed upon.
+The streets were thronged early. Every westward artery of the great city
+pulsated with the living tide that flowed through it. From the far east,
+where the docks border the Thames, came multitudes, though not exactly
+stars in the hemisphere of fashion. Ladies in the aristocratic precincts
+of Belgravia rose at an early hour, and, for once, followed the queen's
+good, every-day example. The lawyers rushed from Lincoln's and Gray's
+Inns of Court. The Royal Exchange was so dull at ten o'clock that the
+very grasshopper on its vane might have been surprised. Holborn was
+crammed at when in olden time people pressed, and struggled, and strove
+to see Jack Sheppard, Joshua Wild, Dick Turpin, or any such worthies on
+their sad way to Tyburn. But it is no gibbet now allures the morbid
+multitude. They are gayly, gently, and gladly travelling to the home of
+industry. Among all the pleasant sights that every moment delighted us
+none were more pleasant than the happy family groups, who, on every
+side, "push along, keep moving." Just see that mechanic; he looks as
+proud as a lord,--and why shouldn't he be?--with his wife leaning
+trustingly, lovingly on his arm. He, good man, has thrown away the saw,
+or plane, or any other tool of handicraft, and now his little boy--O,
+the delight, the wonder in that boy's face!--is willingly dragged along.
+Well, on we go,--driving across what you would call impassable streets,
+and lo! we are wedged up in a crowd,--and such a crowd,--a crowd of all
+nations.
+
+At length we reach the palace gates; and there, who can tell the press
+and strife for entrance. Long and nobly did the police struggle and
+resist, but at length the outward pressure was omnipotent, and the full
+tide of lucky ones with season tickets gained, entrance into, not the
+palace, but the enclosure. Then came order,--breathing space,--tickets
+were examined, and places assigned on cards, given as we entered into
+the palace itself. We all obtained good positions--very good ones. This
+was at eleven o'clock. At about a quarter to twelve, one standing near
+to us remarked, "She will be to her time; she always is." And he was
+right; for scarcely had he prophesied before a prolonged shouting told
+that the queen was coming. "Plumes in the light wind dancing" were the
+outward and visible signs of the Life Guards, who came gently trotting
+up. Then came four carriages,--the coachmen and footmen of which were so
+disguised with gold lace, and wigs, and hair powder, that their mothers
+wouldn't have known them,--and then the queen--not robed and tricked
+out like the queens in children's story books, so dreadful as to
+resemble thunderbolts in petticoats; not hooped, and furbelowed, and
+stomachered, and embroidered all over, as was Elizabeth; nor with a cap,
+like Mary, Queen of Scots; not with eight horses prancing before the
+queen's carriage, but in her private carriage, drawn by two horses. Off
+went all hats. I wish you could have heard the cheering as the queen
+entered the wondrous building. O, it was like "the voice of many
+waters." Such deep, prolonged, hearty cheering I never, heard. As
+Victoria entered, up went the standard of England, and never before did
+its folds wave over such a scene. The entrance of majesty was the signal
+for the organ to play; the vitreous roof vibrates as the sounds fly
+along the transparent aisles; and we had musical glasses on a large
+scale. It would require the pen of our favorite Christopher North to
+describe the magnificent scene when the queen ascended the throne,
+surrounded by all the elegance and nobility of her kingdom. Her husband
+reads an address; she replies; the venerable archbishop dedicates the
+Temple of Industry. The queen declares the palace opened, and the
+procession is formed to walk through its aisles. No small task this; but
+then thirty thousand persons are waiting to gaze on the queen and her
+court. A ludicrous sight it was to see two of England's proudest peers
+walking backward before the queen. The Marquis of Westminster and Earl
+of Breadalbane performed this feat, and glad enough must they have been
+when they received their dismission. The heralds, some twelve or
+fourteen, in black velvet, looked finely. The queen walked like a queen,
+and bore herself nobly and womanly. She is a small figure, fair face,
+light hair, large, full, blue eyes, plump cheek, and remarkably fine
+neck and bust. She leaned upon her husband's right arm, holding in her
+hand the Prince of Wales, while Prince Albert led the princess royal. I
+was sadly disappointed in the appearance of the Prince of Wales. He is
+altogether a feeble-looking child, and cannot have much mental force.
+The princess is a fine, energetic-looking girl. We stood within a yard
+of the royal party as it passed bowing along. Then came the members of
+the royal family; and then visitors from Prussia and Holland; the ladies
+and gentlemen of the queen's household; the cabinet ministers; the
+foreign ministers; the archbishop in his robe, and the members of the
+royal commission; the lord mayor of London, and the aldermen. There,
+too, was Paxton, the architect of this great wonder. It was his day of
+triumph, and every one seemed to be glad for his fortune. All these were
+in gorgeous court dresses. I have seen all sorts and kinds of show, but
+never did I witness such a spectacle as was this day afforded to the
+congress of the world. The Duke of Wellington, and his companion in
+arms, the Marquis of Anglesea, walked arm in arm, "par nobilis fratrum."
+It was Wellington's birthday. He is eighty-two, and Anglesea eighty-one.
+The Marquis walks well for a man of his age, and who has to avail
+himself of an artificial leg. They were most enthusiastically cheered in
+all parts of the house. In the diplomatic corps there was great splendor
+of costume, but no man carried himself more stately than did Mr.
+Lawrence, whose fine, manly figure admirably becomes a court dress. I do
+not think that I ever saw a collection of ladies so plain and homely as
+the court ladies of Queen Victoria, who walked behind her in procession.
+The Duchess of Sutherland has been renowned for her majestic beauty; but
+she is _passe_, and her friends are, I think, matchless for entire
+destitution of personal charms. But there was enough present to atone
+for the want of this in the royal circle. Some of the most exquisite
+faces I ever saw were there in those galleries, and forms of beauty that
+can hardly be surpassed. I was much surprised at noticing in the vast
+crowd, known to be about thirty thousand, that there were so few lads. I
+do not believe there were more than ten or fifteen in the palace; and,
+as we have already said, the absence of lads is owing to their all being
+at boarding-schools. Our boys, you may well suppose, are greatly
+pleased with having witnessed the greatest pageant of the age, and one
+that can never be surpassed. We shall soon be at the exhibition again,
+and apply ourselves to a careful survey of its interesting contents.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+J.O.C.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 16.
+
+
+LONDON.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+Now that the excitement consequent on the opening of the Crystal Palace
+has in some degree subsided and curiosity to a certain extent satisfied,
+we are enabled to obtain more lucid ideas of this extraordinary building
+and its wondrous contents. The admission for several days was one pound,
+and at this high price the visitors were of the most fashionable
+character. We have been much pleased in looking at the very fine
+equipages that throng the roads around the park. The carriages, horses,
+end liveries are in the best possible taste. When we entered, the palace
+was no longer heightened in splendor by the presence of the sovereign
+and her brilliant court. The superb canopy which overshadowed the _dais_
+on which the gorgeous chair had stood, alone remained to indicate that
+there England's queen had performed the inaugural rites; but the great
+facts of the exhibition remained. The crystal fountain still played, the
+magnificent elms appeared in their spring garniture of delicate green
+beneath the lofty transept, and the myriad works of skill, art, and
+science lay around, above, and beneath us. I entered the building by its
+eastern door, and, immediately on passing the screen which interposes
+between the ticket offices and the interior, the whole extent of the
+palace of glass lay before me. Fancy yourself standing at the end of a
+broad avenue, eighteen hundred and fifty feet in length, roofed with
+glass, and bounded laterally by gayly-decorated, slender pillars. The
+effect was surpassingly beautiful. Right and left of this splendid nave
+were other avenues, into which the eyes wandered at will; for no walls,
+no barriers are to be found in the whole building; all is open, from
+floor to roof, and from side to side, and from the eastern to the
+western extremity.
+
+Proceeding westward, I saw the compartments allotted to our own country.
+The first thing I noticed was a piece of sculpture,--the dying
+Indian,--a fine production, though perhaps a trifle overdone. Then came
+an American bridge, which painters were still at work upon; and then,
+backed by drapery of crimson cloth, that splendid creation of genius,
+the Greek Slave, which will immortalize the name of Hiram Powers. I
+shall not, I think, be accused of national partiality when I assert
+that this statue is, in sculpture, one of the two gems of the
+exhibition. Perhaps, if I were not from the United States, I should say
+it was "_the gem_." When I come to tell you of the Italian marbles, I
+shall refer to that production of art which can alone be thought to
+dispute the palm of superiority with it. Every one expresses the highest
+admiration at the Slave, and a crowd is constantly around the spot. One
+old gentleman, who was in an ecstasy over the sculpture, very sharply
+rebuked a person complaining of the paucity of the American productions,
+with "Fie, _there_ is one thing America has sent, that all Europe may
+admire, and no one in Europe can equal." Turning aside from this
+"breathing marble," I examined the American exhibition of products and
+manufactures. I confess to you I felt mortified with the comparative
+meagreness of our show, because it contrasts poorly with the abundance
+exhibited by nations far inferior to us in skill and enterprise. Still,
+we have much to show; but the useful prevails over the beautiful. I am
+quite sure, too, that there are things here which will compel attention,
+and carry away calm, dispassionate approbation from the jurors. The
+United States exhibits numerous specimens of tools, cordage, cotton and
+woolen fabrics, shawls, colors, prints, daguerreo-types, silver and gold
+plate, pianos, musical instruments, harnesses, saddlery, trunks,
+bookbinding, paper hangings, buggies, wagons, carriages, carpetings,
+bedsteads, boots and shoes, sculls, boats, furs, hair manufactures,
+lithographs, perfumery, soaps, surgical instruments, cutlery, dentistry,
+locks, India rubber goods, machinery, agricultural implements, stoves,
+kitchen ranges, safes, sleighs, maps, globes, philosophical instruments,
+grates, furnaces, fire-arms of all descriptions, models of railroads,
+locomotives, &c. You may add to these fine specimens of all our produce,
+as cotton, sugar, tobacco, hemp, and the mineral ores--iron, lead, zinc,
+plumbago, tin, and copper, coals of all kinds, preserved meats, &c., &c.
+
+I wish, Charley, you could go with me into a door south of the transept,
+over which, in oddly-shaped letters, are the words "MEDIAEVAL
+COURT." The very name reminds one of Popery, Puseyism, and Pugin.
+This mediaeval court absolutely dazzles one's eyes with its splendors.
+Auriferous draperies line the walls; from the ceiling hang gold and
+silver lamps--such lamps as are to be seen in Romish chapels before the
+statues of the Virgin; huge candlesticks, in which are placed enormous
+candles; Gothic canopies and richly-carved stalls; images of he and she
+saints of every degree; crucifixes and crosiers; copes and mitres;
+embroideries, of richest character, are all here--things which the
+mother of harlots prizes as the chosen instruments by which she
+deceives the nations. And truly beautiful are many of these things as
+works of art; but it is only as works of art that any Christian can
+admire them. As I gazed on the rich tissues and golden insignia, I
+mourned for poor corrupt human nature, to which alone such gewgaws could
+be acceptable. How would Paul or Peter have stared, had they been
+required to don such glittering pontificals as are here to be seen!
+While I feel great respect for Pugin's ability as an architect and
+designer, I have profound pity for those who are deluded by these
+gorgeous symbols of a gloomy, cruel, and heartless creed.
+
+There is a large golden cage, not altogether unlike a parrot's; and
+there is a press, indeed. What calls such attention from the multitude?
+I join the gazers, and see what at first appears to be three pieces of
+irregularly-shaped glass, white and glittering; one large piece, about
+the size of a walnut, and two others a little larger than marbles. What
+renders that bit of glass so attractive? Glass! no; it is "a gem of
+purest ray serene"--a diamond--the diamond of diamonds--the largest in
+the world. In short, it is the Kohinoor; or, as the Orientals poetically
+called it, "the mountain of light." Its estimated value is two millions
+sterling--enough to buy the Crystal Palace itself, nine times over. The
+history of this precious gem is romantically curious. It belonged to
+Runjeet Sindjb and is now an English trophy.
+
+Let us enter that partially-darkened chamber, and stand before a painted
+glass window, the production of Bertini, of Milan. I can't describe this
+extraordinary production. It is illustrative of Dante, and, for
+brilliancy of color and harmony of combination, it is not surpassed by
+the much-vaunted specimens of past ages.
+
+"From the sublime to the ridiculous," said Burke, "there is but a step;"
+and at not much greater distance from this Dantean window is a German
+toy stand. It is amusing to observe a big, "Tenbroek" sort of son of
+Allemagne, arranging tiny children's toys. The contrast between the
+German giant and the petty fabrics he is setting off to the best
+advantage, provokes a smile.
+
+Let us join the throng rushing into the suite of rooms furnished by the
+upholsterers of Vienna. These rooms are indeed magnificent, and must
+afford a high treat to the lovers of wood carving. There is a bookcase,
+which is almost a miracle of art; the flowers seem to wave, and the
+leaves to tremble, so nearly do they approach the perfection of nature.
+Then there is, it is said by judges, the most superb bed in the world;
+it is literally covered with carvings of the most costly and delicate
+description. Since the time of the famous Grinling Gibbons, the English
+carver, nothing has been seen like it. These Austrian rooms are among
+the great guns of the show, and will repay repeated visits.
+
+Here stands the glorious Amazon of Kiss, of Berlin. This group, of
+colossal proportions, represents a female on horseback, in the act of
+launching a javelin at a tiger which has sprung on the fore quarter of
+her affrighted steed. This is a wonderful work of art, and places its
+author in the first rank of sculptors. Nothing can surpass the lifelike
+character of the Amazon's horse and the ferocious beast. As a tribute to
+the genius of Kiss, a grand banquet is to be given to him by the
+sculptors and artists of England. Well does he deserve such an honor.
+
+Close by the Amazon is a colossal lion in bronze. This is the softest
+piece of casting I ever saw; the catlike motion of the paw is perfectly
+lifelike. I turn back again to that Amazon. I could gaze on the agony of
+that horse for hours, and think I should continue to discover new
+beauties.
+
+The Crusader, a colossal equestrian statue of Godfrey of Bouillon, is
+also very imposing. The entire floor is covered in the centre of the
+avenue, from east to west, with beautiful statues, models, &c.
+
+We ascended to one of the galleries for the purpose of taking a bird's
+eye view of the gay, busy scene; and a most splendid scene was thrown
+open to our gaze. Far as the eye could reach, the building was alive
+with gayly-dressed people, who, amidst statues, and trophies, and trees,
+and fountains, wandered as in the groves of some enchanted land. As I
+strolled onwards, I came to where a tiny fountain sent up its silvery
+jet of _eau de Cologne_, and an assistant of Jean Marie Farina, from a
+little golden spoon, poured on my handkerchief, unasked, the odoriferous
+essence. Then we lingered to witness two of the noblest cakes, the sight
+of which ever gladdened the heart of a bride. Gunter, the great pastry
+cook, was the architect of the one which was a triumph of taste. The
+other was adorned with Cupid and Psyche-like emblems. Then came wax
+flowers, beaded artfully with glass, so as to appear spangled with
+dewdrops. Then we inspected Cashmere shawls, on which I saw many a lady
+cast looks, of admiration, and, I almost fancied, of covetousness.
+
+Down again, and we are beneath the transept. Beautiful, head, far higher
+than the tops of the huge elm-trees, is a crystal arch which spans this
+intersecting space. Around are marble statues, which gleam lustrously
+amid the foliage of tropical plants, which, shielded from the chilling
+air without, seem to be quite at home here. And in the midst up rises
+Osler's crystal fountain--a splendid affair, twenty-seven feet in
+height, and consisting of four tons of cut glass. So exquisitely is it
+arranged that no metal, either of joint or pipe, can be seen. It is "one
+entire and perfect chrysolite." From its lofty summit issues forth a
+dome of water, which separates, and falls in prismatic showers into a
+spacious basin beneath. There are three other fountains, but this is the
+monarch of all. On either side of this beautiful production of a
+Birmingham manufacturer are two equestrian statues of the queen and
+Prince Albert, about which I cannot speak in admiration. Groups of
+figures line the sides of the transept, and there is a Puck which I
+would like all friends to look at. O, he is alive with fun, and there
+marble speaks and laughs.
+
+We have been greatly delighted with the English room of sculpture. There
+is a fine portrait statue of Flaxman, from the chisel of Franks; a very
+clever statue of John Wesley; but if I were to chronicle all the
+sculptures here, I may as well write a catalogue at once. But before I
+quit the subject of marble, let me just allude to the Italian gallery.
+There the specimens are indeed exquisite, and remind us that the genius
+of art yet loves to linger in the "land of the cypress and myrtle"--in
+that beautiful country
+
+    "Where the poet's eye and painter's hand
+     Are most divine."
+
+Among the gems of marble is one which I told, you was the only possible
+rival of Powers's Greek Slave. This lovely production is "the Veiled
+Vesta." It represents a young and exquisitely-formed girl, kneeling and
+offering her oblation of the sacred fire. Her face is veiled; but every
+feature is distinctly visible, as it were, through the folds which cover
+her face. So wonderfully is the veil-like appearance produced, that
+myself and others were almost inclined to believe that some trick of art
+had been practised, and a film of gauze actually hung over the features.
+It was not so, however; the hard marble, finely managed, alone caused
+the deception. Raffael Monti, of Milan, is the illustrious artist of
+"the Veiled Vesta."
+
+One of the most interesting machines in the whole exhibition is the
+envelope machine of Messrs. De la Rue & Co., of London. In its
+operations it more resembles the efforts of human intellect than any
+thing I have seen before in machinery. It occupies but a small space,
+and is worked by a little boy. In a second, and as if by magic, a blank
+piece of paper is folded, gummed, and stamped, and, in fact, converted
+into a perfect envelope. As soon as finished, a pair of steel fingers
+picks it up, lays it aside, and pushes it out of the way in the most
+orderly manner possible. These envelopes, so made, are given to all who
+choose to accept them. Opposite to this machine is the stand of
+Gillott, of steel pen celebrity. Here are pens of all sizes, and of
+various materials. One monster pen might fit a Brobdignagian fist, for
+it is two feet long, and has a nib one quarter of an inch broad; and
+there are others so small that no one but a Liliputian lady could use
+them. Between these extremes are others of various dimensions, arranged
+in a very tasteful manner. Something must be got out of this branch of
+business, for it is only a month or two since Mr. Gillott purchased an
+estate for ninety thousand pounds sterling. Here, too, is a novelty--the
+model of St. Stephen's Church, Bolton, Lancashire. The model and the
+church itself are both composed of terra cotta. This material was also
+employed in the construction of the principal fittings, such as the
+screen, pews, organ gallery, pulpit, &c. This is a new adaptation of
+terra cotta. The spire severely tests its capabilities, as it is of open
+Gothic, or tracery work.
+
+A large model of Liverpool is beautifully constructed to scale, and must
+be the result of immense labor. It is twenty-five feet long, and
+exhibits at a glance a bird's eye view of the town, the docks, the River
+Mersey, and the adjacent places. Hundreds of miniature vessels, amongst
+them the Great Britain, crowd the docks; fleets of merchantmen are seen
+on the Mersey, sailing to and from the port; and in the busy streets,
+so minutely delineated that any particular house may be distinguished,
+numerous vehicles are seen, and hundreds, too, of pygmy men and women
+are observed walking in the public ways. In short; it is Liverpool in a
+glass case, and no mean exhibition in itself.
+
+The Thames Plate Glass Company exhibit the largest plate of glass in the
+world; its dimensions are eighteen feet eight inches by ten feet. There
+is not a blemish on its brilliant surface, and it is as "true" as
+possible. It is placed in such a position that it reflects the whole
+length of the main avenue of the Crystal Palace, and the effect produced
+is superb. A Catholic bookseller from Belgium makes quite a display of
+his editions of devotional works for every country under heaven; and
+there, too, are the effigies of Cardinal Boromeo, Thomas a Becket, and
+the late Archbishop of Paris, all arrayed in full pontificals. Their
+crosiers are very richly jewelled. If the apostles of Christ could
+revisit the earth, they would never fancy that these were their
+successors in the work and patience of the gospel.
+
+Few things have impressed me more than the exquisite carvings and
+elaborate work of the cabinet ware; and I must, Charley, try to describe
+one piece of furniture which excites universal praise. It is a cabinet
+made by John Stevens, of Taunton. It was prepared at great cost, and is
+the gem of the carved work in the exhibition. The wood of which it was
+composed was a walnut-tree, which, not long ago, flourished near
+Taunton. In order that you may not suppose, I praise every thing too
+highly, and without sufficient ground for admiration, I shall give you a
+particular description of this incomparable piece of furniture. It
+represents, in four beautifully carved male figures, executed after the
+style of Gibbons, the periods of Youth, Manhood, Maturity, and Old Age,
+whilst other four (female) figures, beautifully brought up in good
+relief, are representative of the Passions. Here there was an
+opportunity for displaying some fine needlework; and Miss Kingsbury, a
+lady of the town, who has received from the hand of royalty a reward for
+her talents, has turned the opportunity to good account, and produced
+some appropriate work, displaying a skill truly astonishing. This is not
+the least attractive portion of the cabinet, and, as we shall again,
+have to advert to it in its order, we leave it for the present. The
+carved figure of the Youth represents him at twenty years of age. The
+countenance is finely wrought, and marks the innocency and candor of the
+young heart; the open brow, the love-lighted eye, all exemplifying
+characteristics of that period of life, untrammelled with care or
+anxious thought. In his hair, well brought out from the solid wood, is
+intertwined the violet, the primrose, and the cow-slip, emblematical of
+the season--being the spring time of life. In the right hand of the
+figure is attached a portion of a festoon of carved flowers, which
+connects it with the other four figures. The left hand is extended,
+pointing to Manhood. This figure denotes the period when forty summers
+have ripened the man, and brought the noblest work of God to that stage
+of his more powerful intellect, his keener judgment, stronger frame, and
+more lasting energy. These characteristics are most admirably depicted.
+In his locks are carved the rose, the lily, the pink, and the carnation,
+the strawberry and the gooseberry--emblematical of the summer time of
+life. In the right hand the figure receives the festoon of flowers from
+Youth, and in the left it supports the frame of the cabinet. The festoon
+is carried on to Maturity, which represents the time when sixty years
+bring him to the period of decline. Its right hand assists, with the
+left of that of Manhood, in supporting the cabinet. Encircling his brow
+are corn ears and wine cups, together with barley, wheat, grapes, and
+hops, the whole of which are most elaborately and finely chiselled. The
+hand of Maturity points downward to Old Age. The furrowed brow, the
+sunken cheek, the dim and glassy eye observable in this figure, conveys
+the mournful intelligence that the sand of life is fast approaching its
+last little grain. The bent form and the thoughtful brow tell that
+Time, the consumer of all things, has also ravaged a once erect and
+powerful frame. The contemplation of this figure, beautifully executed
+as it is, intuitively inculcates a serious consideration of the value
+and blessings of a temperate; and well-spent life; it induces a
+thoughtful reflection that a life of goodness alone insures an end of
+peace. The holly, the mistletoe, the ivy, the acorn shell, the leafless
+branch, and the fruitless vine encircle the brow-fit emblems of the
+period which marks an exchange of time for eternity. All the figures are
+rendered complete by a carved lion's foot, at the bottom of each, and
+above the feet is a connecting frame, to make that portion of the stand
+perfect. Between the figures of Spring and Summer are carved flowers and
+fruit in great profusion, emblematical of the seasons, and forming a
+fine piece of work; it represents the all-important fact that time
+flies, by an hourglass borne on the wings of a splendidly-carved eagle,
+and suspending from the bird's beak are the letters, curiously wrought,
+forming TEMPUS FUGIT. This rests on a globe, representative of
+the earth, which is half sunk in a shell of water, overflowing the wheel
+of time, and shedding on fruit and flowers its refreshing dew. The space
+between the figures of Autumn and Winter is filled with carvings of the
+chrysanthemum, holly, ivy, and autumn fruit, intertwined with
+consummate skill and taste. The garland, or festoon, which is carried
+through, and sustained, as before stated, by each of the four figures,
+is composed of every flower indigenous to this part of the land, and
+introduced emblematically to the time in which they severally bloom.
+
+Above the figures, and resting on their heads, is a stand or frame to
+receive the top part, containing the drawers, doors, &c., and is
+constructed in a peculiar manner on the bevel, that the eye may easily
+rest on some beautiful lines from Thomson's Seasons. Over the head of
+Youth, in this frame, is a basket of strawberries, cherries,
+raspberries, and early fruit, surrounded with leaf work, enclosing a
+panel of needlework, covered with bent plate glass, and the motto,--
+
+    "------ Chief, lovely Spring,
+    In these and thy soft scenes the smiling God is seen."
+
+Then follows the carved figure representing Summer. Over the head of it
+is a basket, containing currants, strawberries, gooseberries, apples,
+pears, peaches, and other fruits, enriched with leaf work, the lily and
+the rose completing the centre. Between the Summer and Autumn baskets
+and a panel are the following mottoes, each season having one:--
+
+    "Child of the sun! refulgent Summer comes,
+    In pride of youth;
+    While Autumn, nodding o'or the yellow plain,
+    Comes jovial on."
+
+Then follows the Autumn basket, containing grapes, pears, filberts, &c.,
+surrounded with leaf work. The panel of needlework next appears for
+Winter, with these lines:--
+
+    "See! Winter comes to rule the varied year,
+     Sullen and sad;"
+
+and over the head of the Winter figure is placed a basket of walnuts,
+medlars, &c. Here is the frame of the cabinet, which contains about
+eighty drawers in fine walnut wood, enriched with fuschia drops in
+silver, and coral beads for drop handles; the wood work is relieved with
+silvered plate glass; also small doors with plate glass for needlework,
+in wild flowers. This completes the interior of the frame.
+
+The exterior represents three carved doors, in fine relief: over Spring
+and Summer is the convolvulus, entwined round the frame; then follows
+the centre door, in fine relief--the grape vine, full of fruit, being
+very prominent. The door over Autumn and Winter is enriched with
+carvings of barley and hop vine. Between each of these doors are
+pilasters, forming four female figures, holding in their hands the
+emblems of the seasons, and a newly-invented glass dome head, in an
+elegant form, for the protection of knitted flowers in Berlin wool. The
+wood work is tastefully arranged, springing from each group of flowers
+over the heads of the female figures, with mouldings to receive the
+bent plate glass, and is enriched with fine carvings of fruit and
+flowers. At the extreme top of this glass dome stands a beautiful figure
+of Peace, with extended wings, bending over the globe, holding in one
+hand the olive branch, and with the other pointing to the Deity.
+
+Having thus given a description of the carvings of this splendid
+cabinet, let me turn your attention to the enrichments in needlework,
+worked on black velvet, from nature, by Miss Kingsbury. The mottoes in
+frame for the different seasons are worked in floss silk of various
+colors; the inside doors--five in number--with wild flowers; and in
+front are rich specimens of raised embroidery, extending to the inside,
+and protected with plate glass. Miss Kingsbury is a young lady of
+Taunton, who has made this kind of work her peculiar forte.
+
+Above the doors, also, are knitted flowers in Berlin wools, which fill
+the dome head, and are protected with bent plate glass. Almost every
+flower, as they bloom, are to be distinguished in these rich bouquets,
+with which the honeysuckle and passion flower are beautifully entwined.
+
+Now, what think you of such a cabinet as this? Well, Charley, there are
+scores and scores of objects as much deserving a full description as
+this.
+
+The department of machinery and steam power is entirely beyond my
+ability to speak of in proper terms. I have little mechanical genius,
+and I never am more out of my element than When surrounded by fly
+wheels, cylinders, and walking beams.
+
+If our friend Ike had been here, lie would have been perfectly at home;
+and his pleasure and profit in this department would have surpassed any
+I could experience. I have only glanced at a few of the wonderful things
+in this wonderful place, and yet I have far exceeded the bounds of an
+ordinary letter.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+J.O.C.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 17.
+
+
+LONDON.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+One evening this week we spent very pleasantly at the Royal Polytechnic
+Institution for the advancement of the arts and sciences in connection
+with agriculture and manufactures. There is a large theatre, where all
+sorts of lectures are delivered, at various hours, upon philosophical
+and other subjects. Lecturers occupy the theatre in succession, and take
+up about half an hour. These are generally men of respectable abilities.
+The building is full of curiosities. We saw the model of the human ear,
+about one hundred and forty times larger than the natural organ. We saw
+a diving bell in the great hall, which is frequently put into action,
+and visitors are allowed to descend. That evening several made the
+experiment. The interior of the bell is lighted by thick plate glass. A
+very large number of models are to be seen, and there is much to
+interest the spectator. We heard a fine lecture respecting the
+experiment of Foucault, by which the diurnal rotation of the earth is
+said to be rendered visible to the eye. Foucault is a young Parisian,
+who, whilst engaged in some investigations with a pendulum in his
+mother's cellar, made this discovery, as he claims it to be. We saw the
+experiment repeated here on the same scale as it has recently been shown
+at the Pantheon at Paris. A brass sphere, weighing about five pounds,
+was suspended from the lofty ceiling by a piece of music wire, and made
+to vibrate in one plane over a table graduated into degrees. After a few
+vibrations, the direction of the pendulum appeared to be changed, as
+though the table had moved round on its owns axis.
+
+We passed an hour at the Egyptian Hall to see the opening of the
+American Panorama of the Overland Route to California. It bids fair to
+make a hit in London. Last Sunday, "great exhibition" sermons were
+abundant in London. Exeter Hal, the largest place in London, holding
+about five thousand persons, is to be used for three months for the
+performance of divine service, to accommodate the strangers who crowd
+the city. We all went, Sunday evening, and heard the Rev. Thomas Binney,
+who has quite a reputation. The hall was as full as it could be, but we
+did not think the discourse as good as it might be. It was rather
+declamatory.
+
+You no doubt remember how much our curiosity was excited by hearing that
+Mr. Wyld was about to place a model of the globe, of gigantic
+dimensions, in the great exhibition. Well, he was unable to obtain the
+space required, and so he has erected a spacious building in Leicester
+Square. This building is circular, with projecting entrances at the four
+cardinal points of the compass. From the centre rises a graceful dome.
+Here is placed the model of the earth, fifty-six feet in diameter. The
+scale is about ten miles to an inch. The arrangement before used in the
+construction of globes is reversed in this case, and the continents,
+islands, and seas are seen on the _inner_ surface. This seems like
+turning the world, not upside down, but inside out. The mountains and
+land are elevated to a scale. The spectators travel round the globe on
+winding staircases, at the distance of a few feet from the surface. I
+went the other morning to the model, but was far less interested than I
+expected. The rest of the party were not present, and are willing to
+take my report. I heard that Mr. Wyld has spent twelve thousand pounds
+upon his undertaking.
+
+We selected a fine afternoon to visit the Zooelogical Gardens in the
+Regent's Park, and, of course, had a treat. I did not think much of the
+gardens as far as the horticulture was concerned; but the collection of
+animals was far beyond any thing I had before witnessed. There are more
+than sixteen hundred specimens. The animals are finely housed, and their
+habits consulted in the arrangements of their homes. We had the pleasure
+to see the young elephant, only six months old, which had just been
+received. It was about the size of a donkey. A hippopotamus had recently
+been added to the collection, and we were sadly vexed not to see it. It
+was shut up at six o'clock, just as we reached its house. George had his
+luck, and obtained a glimpse of the retiring quadruped. We have been
+greatly amused with the sight of hundreds of boys about town, dressed in
+blue gowns, or long coats with belts, short knee breeches, yellow
+stockings, and shoes with tackles, but wear no caps or hats. In all
+weathers they are bareheaded. I find that they are the boys belonging to
+Christ's Hospital, a school founded by Edward VI., in 1553, and
+generally known in London as the Blue Coat School. The scholars
+generally range from one thousand to twelve hundred. The education, is
+said to be of the best character, and many of the boys belong to
+families of high respectability, and it is quite a matter of desire to
+obtain scholarship here. They look very funny in their old-fashioned
+rig. Each boy wears bands like a clergyman. The school is in Newgate
+Street, and is a fine modern edifice in the Tudor style. The front is
+flanked by towers, and has eight noble windows, which are separated by
+buttresses. Over one of the galleries of the hall is a fine picture, by
+Holbein, of Edward VI. granting the charter to the Hospital, as it was
+then called. Some of the best scholars of England were educated here;
+and we remembered particularly Coleridge and our special favorite,
+Charles Lamb.
+
+To-morrow we are to have a treat of the highest kind. We are to spend
+the day at Windsor. I feel pretty well acquainted with its history and
+associations, but I shall spend the evening with George in brushing up
+my information. There is nothing more unpleasant than to find yourself
+in the presence of things and places of which you painfully feel an
+entire ignorance. If ever we meet again, how much we shall have to chat
+over on our favorite topics!
+
+Yours always,
+
+JAMES.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 18.
+
+
+LONDON.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+It was a fine, clear morning when we started for Windsor by railroad, a
+distance of twenty-one miles. The country is fine; but our thoughts were
+on the castle. At Slough we took an omnibus, and rode into the town. It
+is a pretty, quiet place, of about ten thousand inhabitants. There are
+some six or seven streets, and they present but few attractions. The
+castle is every thing. You know this has been the favorite residence of
+most of the English monarchs, and the scene of many a tournament in the
+days of chivalry. The castle was the work of William the Conqueror. John
+lived at Windsor while Magna Charta was extorted from him by his barons
+at Runnymede. Henry III. did a great deal to the castle, but Edward III.
+invested it with its great glory. This was his native place. The
+architect he employed was the famous William of Wykeham, Bishop of
+Winchester, a man of great genius. He built the noble round tower. This
+was in 1315. Wykeham built him a palace worthy of the hero and his noble
+son, the Black Prince. Edward IV. built St. George's Chapel, and Henry
+VII. and Henry VIII. both made important additions to the fortress.
+Young Edward VI. resided here, and did not like its retirement and
+gloom. Elizabeth made the terrace and other improvements. When Charles
+II. was restored, he brought a foreign taste to the improvement of the
+castle, and a great deal of elegancy was attempted, but which poorly
+harmonized with the Gothic, baronial style of Wykeham's works.
+
+George IV. was a man of exquisite taste, and he employed Sir Jeffry
+Wyatville to carry out the plans of Edward III. and his architect. This
+was in 1824, and his immense labors have been successful. These
+improvements cost two million pounds sterling. I ought to say that
+Windsor Castle was the favorite home of George III., who died here. This
+palace stands on a lofty chalk hill, and commands the valley of the
+Thames. Around it is the finest, terrace in the world, the descent from
+which is faced with a rampart of freestone extending about seventeen
+hundred feet. The whole building occupies about twelve acres.
+
+I shall not describe all the towers, for there are some dozen or
+fifteen. The round tower of Edward III. is the chief one. Here he
+revived the round table of King Arthur, and established the Order of the
+Garter. From the battlements of this strong fortress you gaze upon no
+less than twelve counties. Prince Albert is constable of this tower.
+This was the old prison, or donjon of the castle. Here James I. of
+Scotland was a prisoner, and here he wrote his sweet verses and
+celebrated Nature's beauties and the praises of his lady-love, Jane
+Beaufort. Here, too, Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey, long suffered, and
+sung the sweetest lays. We had a ticket to see the state apartments.
+Suffice it to say that we went through the Queen's Audience Chamber, the
+Vandyke Room, the Queen's State Drawing Boom or Zuccharelle Room, the
+State Ante-Room, the Grand Staircase and Vestibule, the Waterloo
+Chamber, the Grand Ball Room, St. George's Hall, the Guard Chamber, the
+Queen's Presence Chamber. All these are very, very beautiful. I was
+delighted with the Vandyke Room. Here are twenty-two undoubted
+productions of this greatest of portrait painters. Charles I. and
+Henrietta were favorite subjects with the artist. Here are several of
+them and their children, and they are to be found elsewhere. The
+equestrian portrait of Charles I. is a truly grand picture. You know the
+beautiful old copy, of a cabinet size, which we have in the study at
+home: it will please me more than ever, since I know how faithful it is.
+That queen of Charles's who made him so much trouble with her Popery and
+temper was a wonderfully beautiful woman. I should not soon be weary
+looking at her portrait. She was daughter of Henry IV. of France. Her
+fortune was hard, to lose a father by an assassin, and a husband by the
+executioner. The Gobelin tapestry, illustrating the life of Esther, in
+the Audience Room, is very rich. In the State Ante-Room are the most
+wonderful carvings of fowl, fish, fruit, and flowers, by Grinling
+Gibbons. They are thought to be unsurpassed in this department of art.
+On the Great Staircase is a noble colossal marble statue, of that
+excellent sovereign, but bad man, George IV. It is by Chantrey. The
+Waterloo Chamber is adorned with thirty-eight portraits of men connected
+with Waterloo, and twenty-nine of them are by Sir Thomas Lawrence. St.
+George's Hall is two hundred feet long, thirty-four wide, thirty-two
+high, and contains some fine portraits of sovereigns by Vandyke, Lely,
+Kneller, Gainsborough, and Lawrence. On twenty-four shields are the arms
+of each sovereign of the Order of the Garter, from Edward III. to
+William IV. The Guard Chamber is a noble room, eighty feet in length.
+Immediately on entering, we were struck with the colossal bust of Nelson
+by Chantrey, A piece of the mast of the Victory, shot through by a
+cannon ball, forms its fitting pedestal. Here, too, we saw the busts of
+the great Duke of Marlborough by Rysbach, and the Duke of Wellington by
+Chantrey, and their two banners, by the annual presentation of which to
+the reigning sovereign, on the anniversaries of Blenheim and Waterloo,
+they hold the estates of Blenheim and Strathfieldsaye. There are figures
+in armor representing the Duke of Brunswick, 1530; Lord Howard, 1588;
+Earl of Essex, 1596; Charles I., when Prince of Wales, 1620; and Prince
+Rupert, 1635. These suits of armor are the genuine ones which were worn
+by these characters in their lifetime. One thing greatly delighted
+me--it was the gorgeous shield, executed by Benvenuto Cellini, and
+presented by Francis I. to Henry VIII. at the Field of the Cloth of
+Gold. The workmanship is entirely beyond anything I had imagined
+possible for delicacy of finish. I hardly wonder that kings used to
+quarrel for the residence of this artist.
+
+I know, Charley, you are impatient to hear about St. George's Chapel, of
+which you have so often expressed your admiration, when we have looked
+at the beautiful engravings of its interior, at home. It is very fine,
+and should be seen to be comprehended. It is of what is called the
+perpendicular Gothic style. The interior is divided by a screen and
+organ gallery, into the body of the church, and the choir. These have
+side aisles, and in these are five separate little chapels. Two of these
+make up the place of transepts, and the other three, and the chapter
+house, form abutments at each angle of the chapel. Now, I think, you
+can't fail to get an idea of the building.
+
+The choir is filled with the stalls and banners of the knights of the
+garter. Each knight has his banner, helmet, crest, and sword.
+
+The great pointed window was _designed_ by our countryman, Benjamin
+West. The altar-piece was painted by West. Here is the tomb of Edward
+IV., 1483. He lies under a slab of black marble. In 1789, some workmen
+discovered his lead coffin, and it was opened, and the skeleton was in
+good preservation, and measured seven feet in length. Horace Walpole
+obtained a lock of his hair at this time. Here are the graves of Henry
+VI., and of Henry VIII. and his queen, Jane Seymour. Also of Charles I.
+
+Lord Byron says of Henry VIII.'s tomb,
+
+    "Famed for contemptuous breach of sacred ties,
+    By headless Charles, see heartless Henry lies"
+
+On the 1st of April, 1813, the coffin of Charles I. was found in Henry
+VIII.'s tomb; and I think you will be pleased with an account of what,
+transpired. I shall, therefore, copy a paper which is authentic:
+
+"On completing the mausoleum which his present majesty has built in the
+Tomb House, as it is called, it was necessary to form a passage to it
+from under the choir of St George's Chapel. In constructing this
+passage, an aperture was made accidentally, in one of the walls of the
+vault of King Henry VIII., through which the workmen were enabled to
+see, not only the two coffins which were supposed to contain the bodies
+of King Henry VIII. and Queen Jane Seymour, but a third also, covered
+with a black velvet pall, which, from Mr. Herbert's narrative, might
+fairly be presumed to hold the remains of King Charles I.
+
+"On representing the circumstance to the Prince Regent, his Royal
+Highness perceived at once that a doubtful point in history might be
+cleared up by opening this vault; and, accordingly, his Royal Highness
+ordered an examination to be made on the first convenient opportunity.
+This was done on the 1st of April last, 1813,--the day after the funeral
+of the Duchess of Brunswick,--in the presence of his Royal Highness
+himself; who guarantied, thereby, the most respectful care and attention
+to the remains of the dead during the inquiry. His Royal Highness was
+accompanied by his Royal Highness the Duke of Cumberland, Count Munster,
+the Dean of Windsor, Benjamin Charles Stevenson, Esq., and Sir Henry
+Halford.
+
+"The vault is covered by an arch half a breadth in thickness; is seven
+feet two inches in width, nine feet six inches in length, and four feet
+ten inches in height, and _is situated in the centre of the choir,
+opposite the eleventh knight's stall, on the sovereign's side_.
+
+"On removing the pall, a plain leaden coffin, with no appearance of
+ever having been enclosed in wood, and bearing an inscription, 'King
+Charles, 1648,' in large, legible characters, on a scroll of lead
+encircling it, immediately presented itself to the view. A square
+opening was then made in the upper part of the lid, of such dimensions
+as to admit a clear insight into its contents. These were an internal
+wooden coffin, very much decayed, and the body carefully wrapped up in
+cerecloth, into the folds of which a quantity of unctuous or greasy
+matter, mixed with resin, as it seemed, had been melted, so as to
+exclude, as effectually as possible, the external air. The coffin was
+completely full, and, from-the tenacity of the cerecloth, great
+difficulty was experienced in detaching it successfully from the parts
+which it developed. Wherever the unctuous matter had insinuated itself,
+the separation of the cerecloth was easy; and when it came off, a
+correct impression of the features to which it had been applied was
+observed in the unctuous substance. At length the whole face was
+disengaged from its covering. The complexion of the skin of it was dark
+and discolored. The forehead and temples had lost little or nothing of
+their muscular substance. The cartilage of the nose was gone, but the
+left eye, in the first moment of exposure, was open and full, though it
+vanished almost immediately; and the pointed beard, so characteristic of
+the reign of King Charles, was perfect The shape of the face was a long
+oval. Many of the teeth remained, and the left ear, in consequence of
+the interposition of some unctuous matter between it and the cerecloth,
+was found entire. It was difficult at this moment to withhold a
+declaration, that, notwithstanding its disfigurement, the countenance
+did bear a strong resemblance to the coins, the busts, and especially to
+the picture of King Charles I. by Vandyke, by which it had been made
+familiar to us. It is true that the minds of the spectators of this
+interesting sight were well prepared to receive this impression; but it
+is also certain that such a facility of belief had been occasioned by
+the simplicity and truth of Mr. Herbert's narrative, every part of which
+had been confirmed by the investigation, so far as it had advanced; and
+it will not be denied that the shape of the face, the forehead, an eye,
+and the beard, are the most important features by which resemblance is
+determined. When the head had been entirely disengaged from the
+attachments which confined it; it was found to be loose, and without any
+difficulty was taken up and held to view. It was quite _wet_, and gave a
+greenish-red tinge to paper and linen which touched it. The back part of
+the scalp was entirely perfect, and had a remarkably fresh
+appearance--the pores of the skin being more distinct, as they usually
+are when soaked in moisture, and the tendons and ligaments of the neck
+were of considerable substance and firmness. The hair was thick at the
+back part of the head, and, in appearance, nearly black. A portion of
+it, which has since been cleaned and dried, is of a beautiful dark-brown
+color. That of the beard was of a redder brown. On the back part of the
+head it was about an inch in length, and had probably been cut so short
+for the convenience of the executioner, or, perhaps, in order to furnish
+memorials of the unhappy king. On holding up the head to examine the
+place of separation from the body, the muscles of the neck had evidently
+retracted themselves considerably, and the fourth cervical vertebra was
+found to be cut through its substance transversely, leaving the surfaces
+of the divided portions perfectly smooth and even; an appearance which
+could only have been produced by a heavy blow, inflicted with a very
+sharp instrument, and which furnished the last proof wanting to identify
+Charles I. After this examination, which served every purpose in view,
+and without examining the body below the neck; it was immediately
+restored to its situation, the coffin was soldered up again, and the
+vault closed."
+
+This state of things precisely tallied with the account which Herbert,
+the faithful servant of Charles, had given as to the place of his
+sepulture.
+
+In this chapel, too, is the cenotaph of the late Princess Charlotte,
+who was wife to Leopold, now King of Belgium. I do not much admire it.
+
+The exquisite beauty of the windows, and the gorgeous splendor of the
+roof, will always make this place live in my memory. The terraces are
+very beautiful walks; and from Queen Elizabeth's terrace you have a
+noble view of Eton College. Of course, we were pleased to see "the
+distant spires and antique towers" which are so celebrated in the lines
+of Gray. The college looms up finely, and greatly adds to the prospect.
+Eton was founded in 1440, by Henry VI. The number of scholars is about
+eight hundred and fifty. This college has produced some of the greatest
+men in England, and the young nobility are generally educated here. The
+college has two quadrangles, and the chapel is a fine Gothic building.
+All this region is beautified by the Thames winding through the valley.
+Here is the gem of villages, Datchett, where Sir Henry Wotton and Izaak
+Walton used to enjoy the rod and line. No one who has any taste can come
+to Windsor and not think of the immortal bard who has made so much
+capital out of this place. At all events, we wanted to see Herne's Oak.
+
+We took a carriage and passed the day in riding through the great park,
+and took our way through the well-known avenue, called the Long Walk.
+This is three miles in length, and has a double row of magnificent
+elms. It is directly in front of the south side of the castle, and
+terminates in a colossal equestrian statue of George III., standing on
+an immense pedestal of blocks of granite. Nothing can exceed in beauty
+the beeches of this park, which contains three thousand acres. Immense
+herds of deer are seen under the trees. Nowhere have I seen such fine
+old trees. Here is a beech-tree thirty-six feet round, seven feet from
+the ground! One oak of similar size is called William the Conqueror's
+Oak. We went to Virginia Water, the largest sheet of water--that is,
+artificial--in Great Britain. We saw the little cottage where George IV.
+passed so much of his time. It is a pretty place, but it only shows that
+the mind is more likely to be pleased with the simple than the grand.
+
+The gardener at the cottage--which I think is called Cumberland
+Lodge--showed us through the conservatory. We did not much admire the
+Fishing Temple, or the floating miniature navy. The scenery is charming,
+and worthy of Poussin. The walk by the water, to the tavern, cannot be
+surpassed. On our return we passed Frogmore, the residence of the
+Duchess of Kent; it seems a pretty, unpretending place.
+
+Nothing would repay the tourist better than to pass three or four days,
+in this vicinity. Village after village, and villa after villa, claims
+the admiration of the traveller; and perhaps England has no more
+beautiful rural scenery than may here be found. We had seven or eight
+hours of perfect delight upon our ride; and when we reached the White
+Hart, at Windsor, we were well prepared for doing justice to an
+excellent dinner. Our pleasure at Windsor was much increased by the
+company of a gentleman of high literary reputation, and who is
+distinguished as the author of several successful works.
+
+Affectionately yours,
+
+WELD
+
+
+
+
+Letter 19.
+
+
+LONDON
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+We are just returned from a most pleasant visit to Sir John Soane's
+Museum. This gentleman was an architect, and a most determined
+antiquary; and when he died he left his wonderful collection to the
+nation, having obtained an act of Parliament for preserving it and
+endowing its maintenance. We obtained a government order, and went to
+the house which was Sir John's private residence, in Lincoln's Inn
+Fields. Never did I behold such a sight. The house is spacious, but
+every nook and corner--and it is full of unimaginable ones--is filled up
+with precious matters. Here are Roman and Grecian relics; fragments of
+vases from Herculaneum; and the far-famed Egyptian sarcophagus brought
+over by Belzoni. The latter is made of one piece of alabaster, nearly
+ten feet long. It is inscribed all over with hieroglyphics, and cost Sir
+John a large sum. I shall see nothing in all Europe that will take my
+fancy as much as this museum, I am sure. There are twenty-five distinct
+apartments; and if you can find a square foot in the house not occupied,
+you would do more than I was able to. The catalogue of this museum I
+shall value highly, and that will give you a better idea than I can of
+its contents. I had no common pleasure in finding here the original
+paintings of the Rake's Progress, by Hogarth, the engravings of which we
+have so admired. These pictures were painted in 1734, and were bought by
+Sir J. Soane, in 1802, for five hundred and seventy guineas. And here,
+too, are Hogarth's great paintings of the Election--a series of four
+pictures. These unrivalled works of comic art were bought of Garrick's
+widow by Soane, in 1823, for sixteen hundred and fifty guineas! The
+collection of paintings is by no means despicable, and we saw a few
+pictures not soon to be forgotten. The Views of Venice, by Canaletti,
+are very fine; and there are some gems by Reynolds, Danby, Turner,
+Hamilton, Lawrence, and Bird. I must tell you how they have economized
+room in the apartment devoted to pictures. The ceiling is very richly
+adorned with ornaments, forming arched canopies. On the north and west
+sides of this room are cabinets, and on the south are _movable planes_,
+with space between for pictures. So, in a room of thirteen feet eight
+inches by twelve feet four inches, there are as many pictures as could
+be placed on the walls of a gallery of the same height, forty-five feet
+long and twenty broad. In the crypt is an ancient tomb, and models, in
+cork, of tombs, at Capua.
+
+There are some precious _souvenirs_ of Napoleon to be seen,--as
+portraits, miniatures, pistols, &c.,--a fine collection of painted
+glass, and a countless lot of antiques, intaglios, autographs, and
+watches. If ever you find yourself in London, I charge you, get to this
+same place for a long morning. In the afternoon we took steamer and Went
+to Greenwich, five miles from town, to see the Hospital for Seamen.
+Charles II. built this place for a royal palace,--and a noble one it
+is,--but William and Mary gave it up to the use of old and worn-out
+seamen; and as England owes every thing to Jack Tar, it seems fit that,
+when old and crazy, his last days should be made comfortable. A very
+large income arises from the exhibition of the fine picture gallery here
+to be seen. Here is quite enough to please any one who is curious, and
+to gratify boys amazingly; and this you will credit when I tell you some
+things that we saw. The coat and waistcoat worn by Nelson when he was
+killed, on the Victory, at Trafalgar; models of celebrated ships;
+original painting of Sir Walter Raleigh; Sir Cloudesley Shovel, who was
+lost, with all his crew, on the Scilly Islands, in Queen Anne's reign;
+Admiral Kempenfeldt, lost in the Royal George, 1782; Lord Nelson; Lord
+Collingwood; and almost all the great naval commanders of Great Britain.
+Then, too, there are large paintings of the great sea fights. One of
+Trafalgar, by Turner, is very fine, and so is a large one of Nelson's
+death.
+
+There is a room besides all I have alluded to, called the Nelson Room,
+and which illustrates all his history; and there are, all about the
+rooms, some exquisitely fine colossal busts, executed by Flaxman,
+Bailey, and Westmacott. The chapel is thought to be one of the most
+beautiful in England. The entire of this great national glory is kept in
+the cleanest manner; and the only thing to complain of is a want of
+politeness in the guides. This is in contrast to other places; for we
+have found the guides very kind and civil at all other places. We have
+recently visited the Queen's stables, by order from Mr. Lawrence. Every
+thing was very clean and spacious. Some of the horses were exceedingly
+beautiful. The harness-room made a display. The cream-colored horses
+belonging to the state carriage are noble animals. I believe they are
+brought from Hanover, or came originally thence. The state carriage is
+an immense lumbering affair, made of carvings and gold. It must be of
+great weight. The sides are richly painted. It is never used but at the
+opening of Parliament and similar occasions. The queen's carriages which
+are ordinarily used are numerous and very elegant, but in good taste.
+One of our number--you may guess who it was--sadly wanted a hair from
+the tail of the queen's favorite riding horse. The riding school is
+spacious, but not much better than a private one that we know in New
+York.
+
+We took dinner one day at Soyer's Symposium, at Gore House. Soyer is the
+great master of ceremonies in London for all matters of the _cuisine._
+Gore House was once the home of Wilberforce and Lord Rodney, but is
+better known as the residence of the late Countess of Blessington. It is
+now a hotel. The grounds are extensive, and the trees are some of the
+finest around London, and I have never seen a lovelier spot of the same
+size. It is alive with blackbirds, thrushes, linnets, and goldfinches.
+As you enter, you find a vestibule, which is called the cupola of
+Jupiter Tonans. Through this you pass to "the hall of architectural
+wonders," then to "the Blessington Temple of the Muses." This apartment
+leads to "the Transatlantic Ante-Chamber," which is adorned with all
+sorts of American emblems. Then there are, in succession, "the Alcove of
+White Roses," "the Birth of Gems," and other rooms of great
+gorgeousness. One room is the "Palace of the North," which is apparently
+made entirely of ice, and out of the wall of which is issuing a polar
+bear. In the pleasure grounds is a "baronial hall," one hundred feet
+long, fifty broad, and thirty high; and besides this an enormous tent,
+called "the Encampment for all Nations." Here, at a table four hundred
+feet long, fifteen hundred persons can be dined at a cheap rate. A
+table-cloth for this affair cost Soyer two hundred pounds sterling. We
+had a very pleasant dinner with the Rev. Dr. Harris, President of New
+College, whose works are so well known in America. The room we occupied
+was "the Alcove of White Roses." The Symposium stands near to the
+Crystal Palace, and accommodates the strangers admirably. That dinner
+was two days ago, however; and I am reminded that another is necessary
+today, and must leave off to prepare for it.
+
+I am yours truly,
+
+JAMES.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 20.
+
+
+LONDON.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+Yesterday we visited the two great ecclesiastical edifices of the
+metropolis,--St. Paul's Cathedral and Westminster Abbey,--and I will
+endeavor to convey to your mind some idea of the impression which they
+left upon my own. These structures are by name familiar to you, and you
+have seen engravings of the mighty dome of St. Paul's and the double
+towers of the Abbey. I had often gazed on these pictured
+representations, but I find that they did not convey to my mind any
+adequate notions of the originals. Like the Pyramids, or our own
+Niagara, they must be seen to be understood. In so vast a place as
+London, it is absolutely necessary for sight-seers to adopt something
+like system in their arrangements; so we agreed to devote one day to the
+examination of the metropolitan Cathedral Church, and of the ancient
+edifice in which the monarchs of England are crowned. We quitted our
+hotel at nine o'clock, and, pushing our way through the hurrying crowds
+of the Strand, speedily arrived at Temple Bar. We then turned down a
+dingy, narrow passage, on our right hand; this led us to the Temple,
+which is like a little town of itself, and is almost exclusively
+inhabited by lawyers. It was amusing enough to notice the gentlemen in
+powdered horse-hair wigs and flowing black robes, like a clergyman's,
+who every now and then emerged from some open door, and flitted across
+the courts, each having a bundle of papers tied with red tape, or a book
+under his arm. Whilst occupied in observing these Templars of modern
+times, the tones of an organ fell on my ear, for we were close to the
+Temple Church, one of the most beautiful sanctuaries in the world. The
+early morning service was not concluded so we entered without ceremony.
+Externally, the building has little in the way of architectural
+decorations to recommend it. It is low, destitute of tower or steeple,
+and surrounded by gloomy-looking lawyers' offices. But no sooner had we
+crossed the threshold than a scene of surpassing beauty burst upon us. I
+should here tell you that this edifice, which is intended for the
+exclusive use of members of the Temple, is very ancient. The church
+formerly belonged to the Knights Templars. It was built in 1185, and the
+choir was added in 1240. For years and years the building was neglected
+by the legal gentlemen; but in 1839 it was proposed to restore the
+former glories of the place, and the outlay of seventy thousand pounds
+has caused it to stand out in all its pristine beauty. The form of the
+church is octagonal. The ceiling, sides, and altar are all decorated in
+the mediaeval style. The pipes of the organ dazzle you with their purple
+and golden splendors. The floor is of encaustic tiles. On the walls are
+displayed the names and coats of arms of those members of the Temple who
+have been raised to the dignity of judges. On all these objects the
+sunshine, streaming through superbly-painted windows, produced quite a
+kaleidoscope effect. The _coup d'oeil_ was almost too dazzling, and
+strikingly contrasted in my mind with the primitive simplicity of our
+New England churches. In this church I found that some great men had
+been buried. The learned Sir John, Selden, the author of "Table Talk;"
+Howell, whose old letters we have so much enjoyed together; Gibbon the
+historian, and Oliver Goldsmith, lie just outside the church. The
+preacher of this church is called the master of the Temple, and the
+great Hooker once held this post. Having gratified our curiosity by an
+inspection of this gem of church architecture, we quitted the building,
+and, after a pleasant stroll through the Temple Gardens,--a sweet spot,
+and spoken of by Shakspeare as the place where the distinction of the
+Red and White Roses was first seen,--embarked on one of the river
+steamboats, which rapidly conveyed us to Blackfriars Bridge.
+
+The finest view of St. Paul's Cathedral is, unquestionably, from the
+Thames. When seen from the streets, only portions of its colossal
+magnitude can be observed. On all sides it is hemmed in by houses,
+which, pygmies though they be, prevent an uninterrupted view of the
+architectural giant. But from the middle of the Thames, the cathedral is
+seen in all its glory; towering above the surrounding marts of trade, it
+stands out the grand point of attraction.
+
+[Illustration: St. Paul's Cathedral.]
+
+Here may be observed, to advantage, the surpassing beauty of the great
+dome, which dwarfs the towers and steeples of the surrounding churches
+almost into nothingness. The general aspect of the cathedral is said to
+resemble St. Peter's, at Rome, but the symmetry of the dome of the
+latter is acknowledged to be less beautiful than that of its London
+rival.
+
+We landed at Blackfriars Bridge Stairs; and, after ascending Ludgate
+Hill, arrived at the great northern door of the cathedral. In reply to
+the rap of our knuckles at the huge portals, it slowly swung back on its
+hinges, and a grim, surly-looking face appeared. The figure which
+belonged to the face was clad in a rusty and seedy black robe, from
+beneath which a hand was thrust forth, and the words, "two-pence each,"
+sounded harshly on our ears. Two-pence each was accordingly paid, and
+then the surly janitor, or verger, as he is called, admitted us within
+the building. In a moment afterwards, we were beneath the dome of St.
+Paul's. If this part of the edifice has appeared imposing when viewed
+from without, how much grander did it seem now that we stood on the
+marble pavement below, and gazed upward into the vast concave which the
+genius of Sir Christopher Wren had designed. The scene to my mind was
+most impressive, and the impressiveness was heightened by a continuous
+dull roar, which never ceased for a moment. This ceaseless noise was
+produced by the numerous carriages passing and repassing without. The
+concavity of the dome, I suppose, condensed the sound into a subdued
+thunder, like that which one hears at a short distance from the Falls
+of Niagara. Against the huge pillars, and in various niches, were the
+statues of eminent men; some of them erected by the nation, as a
+commemoration of naval or military services, and others as tributes to
+great personal worth, or to public benefactors. Among the statues of the
+men of peace, that of Dr. Samuel Johnson, the great lexicographer,
+particularly interested me. The celebrated moralist is represented
+seated. One hand holds a scroll, the other rests upon a pedestal. The
+likeness is said to be well preserved. The sculptor was Bacon. There was
+the capacious forehead, the thick bushy eyebrows, the large mouth, the
+double chin, the clumsy person, and the thick, ungainly legs, which had
+been rendered familiar to me through the portraits which I had seen in
+the Johnsonia. As I gazed on that marble tribute to genius and worth, I
+could not but remember, Charley, how Johnson had frequently walked the
+streets of London all night, because he had not the wherewithal to pay
+for a lodging. Near to Johnson's monument was that of Howard the
+philanthropist. We noticed a very fine one to Sir Joshua Reynolds; also
+statues to Bishop Heber, Abercrombie, Cornwallis, Sir John Moore, Sir
+Astley Cooper, Sir Thomas Lawrence, and Benjamin West.
+
+[Illustration: Dr. Samuel Johnson.]
+
+But the greatest attraction of St. Paul's is the sarcophagus, in which
+repose the remains of England's greatest naval hero, Lord Nelson.
+Situated immediately beneath the centre of the great dome is a
+diamond-shaped tablet, which marks the spot beneath which rests, after
+his career of glory, the hero of the Nile and Trafalgar. His body rests
+in a sarcophagus in the vaults below. Exactly beneath the tablet lies
+the huge coffin, with the name "NELSON" engraven on its side.
+No epitaph, no labored panegyric, no fulsome praise; and Englishmen, I
+think, were right in supposing that the simple name of their hero was
+enough for fame. This sarcophagus was made by Cardinal Wolsey; and here
+Nelson was placed, in a coffin made out of the mainmast of the French
+ship, L'Orient.
+
+The grim verger recommended us to ascend to the dome, and, after paying
+fresh fees, we mounted an enormously long and steep-winding staircase,
+which led us to the base of the dome. Here was a circular gallery,
+surrounded with a railing. Scarcely had we entered this gallery, when
+the attendant purposely slammed the entrance door, and immediately a
+loud peal, as of thunder, reverberated through the vast building; then
+he requested us to listen whilst he whispered against the smooth wall
+directly opposite to us. The effect was startling; every word was as
+distinct as though the speaker's lips had been close to my ear. This is
+known as the Whispering Gallery, and is one of the great lions of the
+place.
+
+We now prepared to ascend still higher, and, after a tedious journey,
+arrived at the gilded gallery, which surmounts the dome. From hence we
+enjoyed a magnificent view of London, for, fortunately, the atmosphere
+was comparatively clear, and the everlasting canopy of smoke which
+overhangs London was not so dense as usual. Spread out before us lay the
+great wilderness of brick and mortar, through which the shining Thames,
+like a huge snake, pursued its sinuous course, spanned at intervals by
+bridges, and bearing, on its broad bosom the gathered treasures of many
+a far-distant nation. The streets, diminished to mere lanes, looked
+alive with Lilliputians; miniature horses and carriages appeared like so
+many German automaton toys which had been wound up and set a-going. Far
+away to the westward patches of green, studded with trees, denoted the
+parks, in one of which glittered the glass roof and sides of the Crystal
+Palace; and still more remote were glimpses of the free, fresh, open
+country, along which, at intervals, would rush railway trains, bearing
+hundreds of passengers to various parts of England. Above my head
+glittered, in the brilliant sunshine, the ball and cross which, at a
+height of four hundred and four feet, stands proudly over London, and
+may be seen from various parts of the metropolis. Another fee secured
+our passage to the interior of this globe of gilded copper, and which is
+about six feet in diameter, and will hold several persons. To reach it,
+I had to ascend a ladder and creep through an aperture at the bottom of
+the sphere. This was not worth the labor, but then we could say we had
+attained the highest point of the cathedral. I hear that ladies
+sometimes venture into the ball; if so, their timidity is insufficient
+to baffle their curiosity. This accomplished, we retraced our steps, and
+visited the portion of St. Paul's in which divine service is performed.
+About a dozen boys, dressed in white surplices, were chanting sweetly; a
+dull-looking clergyman read the service indifferently; and a score of
+poor people, with one or two well-dressed persons, formed the
+congregation. We then departed for Westminster Abbey, which must form
+the subject of another letter.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+WELD.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 21.
+
+
+LONDON.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+What shall I tell you about Westminster Abbey? I hope I may be able to
+say enough to make you long to see it, and determine you to read all you
+can about it. By the way, I have satisfied myself that I can learn the
+best things about such places by carefully reading good histories and
+examining the best engravings. This abbey claims to have been built, in
+616, by a Saxon king. It was enlarged by Edgar and Edward the Confessor,
+and was rebuilt as it now appears by Henry III. and Edward I. In this
+church all the sovereigns of England have been crowned, from Edward the
+Confessor down to Victoria; and not a few of them have been buried here.
+The architecture, excepting Henry VII.'s Chapel; is of the early
+English school. Henry's chapel is of the perpendicular Gothic. The
+western towers were built by Sir Christopher Wren.
+
+We entered at the door leading to the Poet's Corner. We gazed with
+interest on the monuments of Chatham, Pitt, Fox, and Canning, Prince
+Rupert, Monk, Chaucer, Spenser, Beaumont, Fletcher, Ben Jonson, Cowley,
+Dryden, Dr. Watts, Addison, Gay, Sheridan, and Campbell. Here, too, are
+tablets to Barrow, South, Garrick, Handel, Clarendon, Bishop Atterbury,
+Sir Isaac Newton, and old Parr, who died at the age of one hundred and
+fifty-two.
+
+[Illustration: Poets' Corner, Westminster Abbey.]
+
+The associations of this building are every thing to the stranger. I
+will just give you a list of names of the kings and queens buried
+here--Sebert, Edward the Confessor, Henry III., Edward I., Queen
+Eleanor, Edward III. and his queen, Philippa, Richard II. and his queen,
+Henry V., Henry VII. and his queen, Ann of Cleves, queen of Henry VIII.,
+Edward VI., Bloody Mary, Mary, Queen of Scots, Queen Elizabeth, James I.
+and his queen, Queen of Bohemia, Charles II., William III. and Mary,
+Queen Anne, George II. and Queen Caroline.
+
+We took the circuit of the chapels, beginning with St. Benedict. Here
+many eminent churchmen have been interred. The next is St. Edmond's,
+which contains twenty monuments; the monument of the Earl of Pembroke,
+brother of Henry III.; he died 1298. Here, too, are tombs of children of
+Edward II. and Edward III. I noticed a very fine brass monument, which
+represents a Duchess of Gloucester in her dress as a nun, dated 1399.
+There is, too, the effigy of the Duchess of Suffolk, mother of poor Lady
+Jane Grey. The third is St. Nicholas's Chapel, where is seen Lord
+Burleigh's monument. The fourth is the Virgin Mary's Chapel, called
+Henry VII.'s Chapel, and the ascent to which is by twelve or fourteen
+steps. This glorious room consists of a central aisle, with five small
+chapels and two side aisles. Here you see the stalls and banners of the
+Knights of the Bath, who were formerly installed in this chapel. The
+altar tomb of Henry VII. is truly beautiful; Lord Bacon said, "It is one
+of the costliest and daintiest tombs in Europe." Here are tombs of his
+mother, and the mother of Lord George Darnley, and Mary, Queen of Scots,
+and the Duke of Buckingham, Queen Elizabeth, and Queen Mary. Here, too,
+is a sarcophagus, which is supposed to contain the remains of Edward V.
+and the Duke of York, discovered in the Tower in the seventeenth
+century, in a box. Charles II., William and Mary, and Queen Anne are in
+a vault on the south aisle. George II. and his queen, Caroline, lie
+together, a side being taken out of each coffin. The fifth chapel is St.
+Paul's. The most striking object here is a colossal portrait statue of
+James Watt, the great steam-engine perfecter, if not inventor. This is
+by Chantrey, and cost six thousand pounds, and seems quite out of place.
+Archbishop Usher lies in this chapel. The sixth chapel, called Edward
+the Confessor's, pleased me greatly. In the centre is the shrine of the
+monarch saint; it is rich in mosaic adornments. The altar tomb of Henry
+III. is very grand, and there is a noble bronze statue of the king.
+Edward I. is here, and in 1774 his body was found almost entire. Edward
+III. and Philippa, his queen, have tombs. Here, too, was Henry V., the
+hero of Agincourt, Richard II. and queen. We were delighted with the two
+coronation chairs; in one is the old stone of Scone, on which the early
+Scotch kings used to be crowned. Edward I. carried it off, and it has
+ever since figured in English coronations. It is a large piece of red
+and gray sandstone, and claims to have been the veritable pillow on
+which Jacob slept. The seventh chapel is that of St. Erasmus, and leads
+to the eighth, which is John the Baptist's. Here rest the early abbots
+of the church. It contains a very fine monument to Lord Hunsdon,
+chamberlain to Queen Bess. Just outside, in the aisle, we found the
+noble monument to General Wolfe, and the celebrated work of Roubilliac
+in memory of Mrs. Nightingale, where death is seen throwing his dart at
+the wife, who falls into her husband's arms.
+
+All over this noble abbey did we wander again and again in repeated
+visits, and admire the finest statuary we have ever seen. Roubilliac was
+a wonderful genius, and his monument to Sir Peter Warren is exquisite.
+The works of Bacon, Flaxman, Nollekins, Chantrey, and Westmacott have
+made me in love with statuary; and I long to see the great works which
+are to be seen on the continent.
+
+Many of the tablets and statues are only honorary, as the persons
+commemorated were not buried here; as Shakspeare, Southey, Thomson,
+Goldsmith, Dr. Watts, &c. I could spend hours looking at Roubilliac's
+monument for the Duke of Argyle and his statue for Handel.
+
+We attended divine service one Sunday afternoon, and heard a very fine
+sermon from Lord John Thynne. The abbey was crowded; the music the best
+I ever heard in a church; the preacher was quite eloquent; and Dr. C.
+observed that it was the most evangelical sermon he had heard in
+England. The subject was on justification by faith:
+
+I may forget many things that I shall see on our travels, but I think
+that this abbey will never vanish from my recollection. I shall always
+remember the very position of these great works of art and genius; and I
+am more than repaid for all the labor of a voyage.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+WELD.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 22.
+
+LONDON.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+No one comes to London without being told by every one to go and see the
+parks; so we have been to see these fine breathing places. Hyde Park is
+about four hundred acres, and has as many as half a dozen great
+entrances. Its position is high, and it is the great drive of the people
+of fashion. If you want to see London, you must come here on a fine
+summer day in June, at about four o'clock, and you will gaze on the
+finest and gayest equipages of England. A very pretty piece of water is
+in this park, which is called "the Serpentine River." The best skating
+of London is to be seen here, we are told, in hard winters. The entrance
+from Piccadilly is by a fine threefold arch. Here is the great Achilles
+of bronze, in honor of Wellington, made out of the cannon which the duke
+captured in Spain. St. James's and the Green Park: this is the oldest in
+London, and was made by Henry VIII. A fine arch affords entrance from
+Piccadilly, having a bronze colossal equestrian statue of the Duke of
+Wellington. You get grand views of the Abbey towers, Buckingham Palace,
+the York Column, and other objects of interest. The two parks are about
+one hundred and fifty acres. Regent's Park is one of the most
+attractive spots in this great city. Here are villas of the finest kind.
+Some of the prettiest terraces and rows of houses about London are here
+to be seen. This park contains nearly five hundred acres, and, among
+other attractions, the Botanical and Zooelogical Gardens, and the
+Coliseum. Victoria Park, near Bethnal Green, is a new one, of about
+three hundred acres; but we did not visit it.
+
+Besides these, there are more than thirty squares, some of which are
+very beautiful, and are finely planted and adorned. Belgrave Square is
+exceedingly rich in its appearance; the houses are built in the
+Corinthian order.
+
+Northumberland House, at Charing Cross, is the city residence of the
+Duke of Northumberland. This, externally, has no great beauty, but is
+surmounted by the lion of the Percy family. It was built in 1605. This
+noble mansion has been politely opened by its proprietor to the visits
+of the foreigners who are here at the exhibition. It is a princely
+mansion; and, although we had recently been to Windsor, and seen the
+royal residence, yet we thought this palace home almost regal in its
+splendor. The staircase is splendid, and the apartments are very
+magnificent. The hall and drawing-rooms are quite equal, in decorations
+and paintings, to the rooms at Windsor. We were much pleased with two
+large pictures--a fox and deer hunt, by Snyders; but there were so
+many, that it is difficult to single out those we admired. There are
+some beautiful paintings of Napoleon, and exquisite carvings in ivory.
+In one of the saloons we were all struck with a large Sevres china vase,
+presented to the Duke of Northumberland by Charles X., at his
+coronation, at which occasion the duke was present as ambassador
+extraordinary, and made a most astonishing display of English wealth and
+liberality.
+
+Sion House, near Brentford, is another palace belonging to the duke.
+This noble mansion is on the banks of the Thames, and is composed of
+freestone. It is very gorgeously furnished, and the hothouses and
+conservatories are not much, if any, inferior to Chatsworth. This
+mansion has also, been opened to visitors from abroad, and we received
+orders from the minister.
+
+One of the sweetest features about the metropolis, to my taste, is the
+vast number of charming villages that surround it. Go where you may, you
+fall in with cottages, villas, and mansions, that convey to the mind the
+ideas of comfort, elegance, and wealth.
+
+I find from Weld that he forgot to tell you that we went to St.
+Margaret's Church, which stands only a few yards off from Westminster
+Abbey. This is a very old building, and said to be of the days of Edward
+I. In this very building the celebrated fast-day sermons of the Long
+Parliament were preached, and I felt much interest in thinking how often
+Cromwell, Pym, Peters, and Harrison had worshipped God in that house. In
+this church, too, the Assembly of Divines worshipped, and also the
+Scotch commissioners, and took the covenant. This church boasts a
+painted window of exquisite beauty, which came as a present, from
+Holland, to Henry VII.; and the historical associations of this window
+are very curious, and well worth your reading about. The monuments of
+this sanctuary are far from being devoid of interest. I may name, among
+others, those to Caxton, Sir Walter Raleigh, Sir James Harrington,
+author of the great book, "Oceana," the wife of Milton, the mother of
+Cromwell, all of whom are here interred.
+
+While I am speaking of churches, let me tell you that, close by our
+hotel, is a very fine one, that pleases me exceedingly. It is called St.
+Martin's-in-the-Fields, but is at present quite central as it regards
+the metropolis. I think the portico is to my eye equal to any piece of
+architecture in London. It was built in 1726. A church stood here for
+many centuries; and in 1680, Baxter said that forty thousand people of
+the parish could not get into the church; and he adds that they "lived
+like Americans, without hearing a sermon for many years." This church
+has an exquisite chime of bells, and they very much amused me every
+morning.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+JAMES.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 23.
+
+
+LONDON.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+I have not written you for some time. But today I have seen a number of
+things which I am sure you would be pleased with, and so I will tell you
+about them. Early in the morning we went to see the Mansion House. This
+is the dwelling-house of the lord mayor of London. It is a fine-looking
+building, but has a queer upper story, with small windows, which look
+badly, over the noble pillars and portico. The great room used for
+public occasions is the Egyptian Hall, for what reason does not appear
+from any thing about it. Here the lord mayor has his great feasts. I
+should like to be in London on the 9th of November, which is his day of
+inauguration; and this is the great day for Londoners. He rides in a
+large carved gilt carriage. I believe he goes to Westminster by water,
+in a splendid barge, and comes back in his coach. The salary is eight
+thousand pounds; but the expenses are beyond this amount, and some
+persons refuse to serve, and pay a fine of five hundred pounds; but
+this is a rare case, and enough are ready to pay for the honor. In the
+city the mayor ranks before the royal family. The title of "your
+lordship" ceases at the expiration of his office.
+
+Our next visit was to the Royal Exchange, a very noble quadrangle, which
+was finished in 1844. It stands finely between the Bank of England and
+the Mansion House, and in front there is a sort of open space, or
+widening of the streets. This is the third building which has occupied
+the same spot--the two earlier ones were both burnt down. The original
+Exchange was built by Sir Thomas Gresham, and opened by Queen Elizabeth
+in 1570. It was copied from the famous Burse at Antwerp, which still
+stands. It is singular that, in the great fires of 1666 and 1838, the
+statue of Sir Thomas Gresham escaped uninjured. The Exchange is built of
+Portland stone, and already has acquired, from the smoke of London, a
+venerable tinge. The portico, I am told, is the largest in the kingdom;
+but the one at St. Martin's Church I like better. Crossing over the
+road, we were at the Bank of England. This is a truly immense affair.
+The walls measure fourteen hundred and sixty feet. It wad built in 1734,
+but has had many alterations and additions, and now covers four acres.
+We did not go into it.
+
+The docks of London are among the attractions of the place. They are
+called St. Catharine's, London, East India, West India, Commercial, &c.
+These are tar too great an affair for me to describe; and to look at
+them, and then think of writing an account, is very much like a small
+boy opening a book of mathematics and trying to understand it. What do
+you think of the tobacco warehouse, at the docks covering five acres?
+Then the tea in bonded warehouses was worth twenty-five millions of
+dollars; and there are ten millions of pounds of pepper, six millions of
+gallons of wine, and other things in proportion. I inquired about the
+shipping, and was told that there were about four thousand seven hundred
+and fifty vessels, and eighty thousand seamen, employed in the foreign
+commerce of the city; and beyond all this, twenty-one thousand coasting
+vessels, averaging five or six men to each craft. Nothing in London
+amazes us like these docks. Here you see Malays, Turks, Lascars,
+Chinese, Russians, Portuguese, Dutch, French, Negroes, and men of all
+nations.
+
+We went several times to walk through Covent Garden Market, and to see
+it to advantage you must go very early in the morning. The supply of
+fruits and flowers is perfectly astonishing, and the perfume is very
+fine. You little imagine, Charley, the prices that early vegetables and
+fruits fetch. A cucumber and onion, wrapped up in grape leaves, will,
+in February, March, and early part of April, find purchasers at two,
+three, and four dollars. Strawberries, peaches, and pines are sold in
+early season at what we should think "awful" prices. The hothouse grapes
+are very beautiful, and the vegetable productions are more carefully
+raised, and in greater variety, than with us. If you want to know all
+about Covent Garden Market, you must read Mayhew on London Labor--a nice
+book.
+
+We boys had a treat the other day at an autograph collector's. His
+collection was large and rare, but his prices very high. I have saved a
+catalogue for you.
+
+To-morrow we are off for the continent, and we are very busy in making
+our arrangements; so I must close. Our next will be from _La Belle
+France._
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+GEORGE.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 24.
+
+
+PARIS.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+On a fine morning we left London, by rail, for Dover, in company with
+the Rev. Dr. Murray, of New Jersey, and Dr. Chetwood, who made quite a
+pleasant addition to our party. On reaching Dover, we were gratified
+with the commanding position of the castle, which stands upon the white
+chalky cliffs so celebrated by Shakspeare. The town lies in a charming
+valley. Dover boasts of high antiquity. The Saxons and Romans both left
+enduring memorials of their residence. Its importance was felt at a very
+early day, on account of its being the best and authorized port to carry
+on intercourse with France. Dover Castle was a strong fortification when
+William the Conqueror landed. We found a steamer ready to start, and in
+a few minutes were all on board. The Straits of Dover are but twenty-one
+miles wide; and yet, in this short passage of barely two hours, we all
+suffered sadly from sea sickness. The boat was small, the passengers
+were numerous, and all were thankful to plant their feet upon the soil
+of the republic. The examination of our passports, and refreshment at
+the station-house, occupied about half an hour, and we again entered on
+our journey by the rail. I shall say nothing of the place, at present,
+as we fully intend to pass a day here, on our return, to examine this
+interesting old city. We found the cars good, the railroad excellent but
+every thing looked strange. No farms laid out in fine fields, and
+divided off by hedges, as in England; or fences and stone walls, as with
+us. We every where noticed women working in the field. We passed through
+St. Omer, a fortified town, of twenty thousand inhabitants. This is a
+town where many English Catholics have been sent for education. We then
+came to Lille, which looked like a large city. It has about seventy
+thousand inhabitants. The fortifications look very strong, and were
+constructed by the great Vauban. This place has been besieged several
+times--once by the Duke of Marlborough, for three months, when it
+surrendered under Marshal Boufflers. We were amazed at the vast number
+of windmills--amounting to hundreds--every where to be seen around the
+town; and the tall chimneys in the town tell plainly that this is a
+great manufacturing place. The windmills are employed in preparing flax
+for linen.
+
+Douai was our next town. It has about eighteen thousand inhabitants, and
+has a foundery for ordnance. The Theological Seminary here has been
+famous, and most of the Catholic clergy of England and Ireland were
+formerly educated here. Arras is a town of about twenty-five thousand
+population, and is celebrated as the birthplace of Robespierre. It is
+said to be a very beautiful place, but we saw little of it. The cars
+next passed through Amiens, a city of about fifty thousand inhabitants.
+It was at this city that a treaty of peace was made between France and
+England, in 1802. Clermont is a very neat little town, of about five
+thousand inhabitants. It has a fine old castle, and every thing looked
+lively and prosperous. Pontoise, on the River Oise, is a small town;
+and I should think that, from the upper part of the town, the prospect
+is very beautiful.
+
+We reached Paris in about eleven hours and a half from London. Really,
+this seems very strange, that I should breakfast in London and dine at
+Paris. After having our luggage examined at the station, by the police,
+we repaired at once to the Hotel Windsor, on the Rue Rivoli. This was
+the hotel where Dr. C. had his quarters, fifteen years ago; and is it
+not strange that we have the same suite of rooms that he then occupied?
+We have a fine drawing-room, a dining-room, and three good chambers. Our
+hotel is exactly opposite the gardens of the Tuileries, and is in the
+pleasantest part of the city. James, you know, was once here for three
+months; and he has quite a knowledge of the city, and seems perfectly at
+home. We take our breakfast in our apartments or the coffee-room, as
+suits us best, at about nine o'clock; our dinners in some good _cafe_,
+in various parts of the city, or at the _table d'hote_, at Meurice's
+Hotel, which is just next door to us. In calling on one or two persons,
+we found them in old apartments, but quite noble rooms, as high up as
+four and five stories; and we hear that many families live in the same
+building, and that many very respectable people live in the sixth, and
+even seventh story. This I should never like. Whenever we go out, we
+leave our key with the _concierge_ or his wife, who live in a snug
+little apartment just inside the great gate, which opens into a
+well-paved court. We have determined not to engage a guide in Paris,
+because it is often annoying to have a coarse, vulgar mind disturbing
+you, when all you ask is silence and your own reflections. It is quite a
+mistake to suppose that you cannot get along without a _valet de
+place_--for in every hotel, and almost every large establishment, there
+are persons to be found who speak English. We paid our respects to our
+good friend the consul, and found him very comfortably settled down in
+his office, and residing in excellent style. A pleasant evening with his
+family made us all think of our old times on board the Arctic. The day
+after we arrived was James's birthday, and he was to give us a dinner,
+and had invited the consul and his son to dine with us. Well, at five we
+met at the consulate, and we boys walked ahead with Mr. G., Jr., leaving
+the doctor and the consul to bring up the rear. He supposed that his
+father understood where he proposed to take us, and so we went on
+speedily. In the Rue Vivienne they lost sight of us; we arrived at the
+Cafe Vachette, on the boulevards, and ordered dinner for the party. The
+gentlemen, however, kept walking the street for two hours. At last they
+gave up the matter as a bad case, and took refuge for a late dinner by
+themselves in a neighboring _cafe_. At nine we all met, sadly
+disappointed. The pleasant occasion had been quite disarranged, and some
+hard jokes passed upon our want of tact in not sending out scouts to
+search the Rue Vivienne, with the geography of which the doctor declares
+he is now perfectly acquainted--having tramped it for two hours with the
+consul. Of course, we all have to take their jokes upon our defrauding
+them of a fine dinner. We have dined since at the _Trois Freres
+Provencaux_, which has the reputation of being one of the best _cafes_
+in Paris. Our room commanded a perfect view of the quadrangle of the
+Palais Royal, and the spectacle was highly interesting. The
+accommodations of the room we occupied were very fine; and nothing could
+surpass the beauty of the table linen, plate, &c. We are about to
+commence the sights of the city in earnest, and are this evening to
+arrange our plans.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+GEORGE.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 25.
+
+
+PARIS.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+I like this city very much--every one seems so happy out of doors. Not
+only the poor, but the wealthy, are fond of the open air; and a great
+deal of time is spent in the gardens and on the boulevards. Every place
+seems to have provision made for the enjoyment of the people. Ices and
+lemonade are to be found wherever you go. The appearance of the streets
+in Paris is much gayer than those of London. You see a much greater
+number of women walking out, and they are generally very neatly dressed.
+But the streets do not look as substantial as they do in London. If
+there is more that is imposing, there is less that keeps up your wonder.
+I do not feel able to think that the people here have much business to
+do, for every one seems to be engaged in pleasure; and yet there are
+great concerns going on, and the fine manufactures of this city are only
+to be done by labor and attention. Nothing, at our first glances at the
+city, have pleased us more than the profusion of flowers every where to
+be seen. It is quite common to see men with a rose in the button hole,
+or a beautiful carnation. The roses are my admiration. I never saw such
+beauties before; and whether it is owing to the climate, or to
+scientific cultivation, I know not, but certainly I never have beheld
+such variety or perfection. In the flower shops you will find very large
+bunches of rosebuds, each bunch made up exclusively of buds of one size,
+from the dimensions of a pea in all gradations up to the diameter of a
+half dollar--not a leaf opened, simply a bouquet of rosebuds, and the
+whole embowered in a delicate sheet of white paper. I reckoned the
+contents of one, and found two hundred and sixty-seven buds not larger
+than a common pea, and the price was only a franc. The moss roses are
+beyond all my conceptions of floral beauty; and, go where I may, I find
+every niche of ground adorned with standard roses of various hues, and
+the walls and windows are beautified with brilliant geraniums, which are
+evidently great favorites.
+
+We had a funny affair yesterday. We all went to make a call upon Mr.
+D----, and found his residence in a splendid part of the city; but,
+instead of being ushered into his drawing-room, we were brought into the
+saloon of no less a personage than the Lord Bishop of Jamaica! He
+politely directed us to the next apartment, where we spent an agreeable
+hour with the family, and found that similar mistakes occur almost
+daily.
+
+Our first tramp for a sight was to Notre Dame; and I shall never forget,
+Charley, my first view of this cathedral. The exterior is more striking
+than any church edifice that I have yet seen. No engraving can afford a
+fair idea of its grandeur to one who has not seen it, though it will
+help my mind, to recall its beauties whenever I see the picture. You are
+so well read about Paris, that I hardly need tell you that eight
+centuries have rolled away since Notre Dame was built. It is regarded as
+the noblest Gothic pile in France, and is the pride of Paris. The front
+is one hundred and twenty feet wide, and the richness of the carvings
+upon the exterior is wonderful. I am really glad to see that great pains
+are taking to restore and adorn this church. The decayed stones are
+taken out, and new ones replaced, and the carvings also are renewed
+where necessary, so that future ages may see what so delights us. The
+two towers are forty feet square and two hundred high, and you ascend by
+a staircase of four hundred steps. The form of the church is that of the
+Latin cross. Its dimensions inside are four hundred feet by one hundred
+and forty, and the height is one hundred feet. All through the cathedral
+is a line of Gothic arches supported by columns, and, as you enter the
+great door, you see the entire edifice. The walls look bare to my eye,
+in spite of the paintings. We were much pleased at seeing the spot where
+Napoleon was crowned; and George was in ecstasies, for you know how
+thoroughly he goes in for his beau ideal of the hero. Here are, the
+splendid candelabra which the emperor gave on the occasion. We heard
+mass, but the service was very formal, and the priest might have been a
+real downeaster, for he had a horrid nasal twang, and his
+"_sanctissime_" was "_shanktissime_." The history of these churches is
+strange, and I think a pretty good book might be written on the romance
+of church architecture. The portal of the north aisle of the choir was
+erected by a vile assassin, the Duke of Burgundy, who murdered his
+cousin, the Duke of Orleans, in 1407. This, of course, was his penance,
+and fully expiated his crime. The great bell weighs thirty-two thousand
+pounds, and was baptized in presence of Louis XIV., and is called
+Emanuel Louise Therese, after his queen. I cannot attempt to describe
+the beauties of this building, inside or out. The exterior is all flying
+buttresses, crocketed pinnacles, and sculpture. Inside you see chapel
+after chapel; and as to windows of painted glass, they are studies for
+hours. The rose windows are exquisite.
+
+We repaired to a small chapel used as a sacristy, or treasure-house of
+the church. Here we saw the coronation robes of Napoleon, and splendid
+capes and embroideries, in gold and silver, given by Charles X. and
+Louis Philippe; and here, too, is the vertebrae of the late Archbishop of
+Paris, who was killed in the revolution of 1848. The bone has a silver
+arrow tracing the course of the bullet, which lies beside it. This is in
+time to be a saintly relic, but it seems to me a filthy sight, and in
+wretched taste. But Popery knows well what to do with dead men's bones.
+For a minute description of this church, I would refer you to three
+volumes, called the "History of Paris," published by Galignani. On our
+return we went to the Hotel de Ville, and had the company of M. O----n,
+whose kindness did much for us on several occasions. The Hotel de
+Ville stands in the Place de Greve, where so much blood has been shed in
+other days. Here the martyrs of the Protestant faith have been put to
+death. Here it was that Dubourg was strangled and burnt by order of
+Francis II. Dubourg was a noble character. His last words were, "Father,
+abandon me not; neither will I abandon thee."
+
+This noble pile was begun in 1533, and only completed in 1841, and in
+the modern improvements fifteen millions have been expended. The whole
+now forms an immense quadrangle. The front is Corinthian, with pillars
+and niches between the windows. A vast number of statues adorn the
+front, and others are in preparation.
+
+It was at the doorway in the centre that Lamartine, "the noblest Roman
+of them all," so gloriously withstood the mob in February, 1848,
+declaring that the red flag should not be the flag of France. I wish you
+could see this palace, for such it is, though occupied by the city
+authorities. London has nothing to approach it in splendor. The
+staircases are gorgeous, and are so rich in sculpture that only a
+sculptor could properly speak of them. We saw the room where Robespierre
+held his council and attempted suicide, and also the window where our
+Lafayette embraced Louis Philippe, and presented him to the mob in
+1830. It is the same window where poor Louis XVI. addressed the savages,
+when he wore the cap of liberty. By the way, I hate the sight of that
+cap, which always reminds me of the lamp-post executions of the French
+capital in 1792-3. Its prevalence in our happy country is owing to the
+French mania which once possessed the people, and has very much died
+out. The apartments are regal, and some of them, I think, quite superior
+to those of Windsor Castle. In this building is a fine library, and here
+are deposited the vast collection of American books obtained by
+Vattemare, whom, you recollect, we saw at Washington.
+
+I cannot tell you how sorely vexed we are to find the Louvre shut up for
+repairs and decoration; every week they say it is to be reopened, but I
+fear we shall leave Paris ere it happens.
+
+How much we would all give to have you here; for, though we are glad to
+tell you what we see, we feel there are scores of objects which interest
+us that we have to pass over, but which would make your eyes glisten, if
+you could gaze upon. Well, my dear fellow, stick to your business, make
+your fortune, and then come and look at the beautiful and fair in the
+old world; and who knows but perhaps we may yet chat cosily together in
+Paris? O, I do love to wander through this city by moonlight, and gaze
+upon the bright, lofty buildings as they loom up so gloriously in the
+mild lustre of a silvery night. God bless you.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+JAMES.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 26.
+
+
+PARIS.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+We have been to dine at the Palais Royal, at the _Trois Freres
+Provencaux_, of which I suppose the boys have told you; and I shall only
+speak about the fine building, so renowned all over the world. The
+Palais Royal is to Paris what Paris is to France. Its history is briefly
+this: Cardinal Richelieu built it for himself; but the king, Louis
+XIII., was jealous, and the wily old priest gave it to the monarch, and,
+after Richelieu's death, he moved into it. In 1692, it fell into the
+hands of Philippe, Duke of Orleans, as a gift, or marriage portion, from
+Louis XIV., and here the great Orleans collection of paintings was
+gathered, and which was sold in 1789, at the breaking out of the great
+troubles. In 1814, Louis Philippe obtained it as his inheritance, and
+lived there till 1831. The garden is very fine, and is about seven
+hundred and fifty feet by three hundred, and has beautiful rows of
+lime-trees, trimmed into shape, as are most of these trees in Paris. In
+the centre are flower gardens and a basin of water, with a fine
+fountain. In this open space are beautiful bronze and marble statues.
+One I admired exceedingly; it is Eurydice, stung by a snake. In this
+garden are hundreds of persons under the trees, on chairs, which are
+hired, where they read and take refreshments. Under the arcades which
+surround the area are the most tasty shops of Paris, and where you may
+get any thing you please. A gayer sight than this same Palais Royal, or,
+as they now call it, Palais National, cannot be seen in this world. I
+shall not attempt to tell you about the apartments of the palace, and
+which you can read of at your leisure. What a loss it was to the world
+when, in February, 1848, six hundred thousand engravings, all classified
+by Louis Philippe, and making one hundred and twenty-two enormous
+folios, were destroyed by the mob, and the queen's own library also!
+
+We lounged about from one shop to another, and made purchases of some
+pretty things, which we hope may serve to show friends at home that we
+did not quite forget them.
+
+The Passage d'Orleans will never die out from my memory, nor shall I
+ever forget the Cafe d'Orleans, with its mirrors, walls, and ceilings,
+all radiant with a thousand lights. We find at every few steps the
+magazine for the Indian weed, and all varieties of pipe, from the
+commonest _en bois_ to the elegantly carved _ecume de mer_, which would
+cost two or three hundred francs. Here, too, are the Theatres Francais
+and Palais Royal, and other places of amusement.
+
+In our walks about the city we are sure to have all the notable places
+pointed out; and one morning, just after I had obtained a Henry IV.
+silver coin, in fine preservation, we were taken home by a long walk
+through the Rue St. Honore. The house No. 3, in this street, is the one
+in front of which Henry IV. was assassinated by Ravaillac. A bust of the
+king stands against the second story, with an inscription. In the Rue
+Vivienne, No. 34, we saw the house where Moliere died, on which is a
+marble tablet, with this inscription: "_Moliere est mort dans cette
+maison, le _17_ Fevrier_, 1673, _a l'age de_ 51 _ans._" At the corner of
+the same street, where a small passage way branches off, is a fine
+monument to the memory of the great poet and the noblest comic writer of
+France. The statue is of bronze, in a sitting posture; on each side are
+figures,--one humorous, the other serious,--both looking at the statue.
+At the foot of the monument is a basin to receive water, which flows
+from three lions' heads. This work was put up in 1844, with public
+services, on which occasion the first men of France took a part. Another
+morning's walk led us to the Rue de l'Ecole de Medecine, and in this
+street Marat lived, at No. 20, and here it was, in a small room, that he
+was stabbed, while bathing, by Charlotte Corday, in 1793. And in this
+same street was held the old club of the Cordeliers.
+
+When I see the places of which I have heard so often it seems very
+interesting, and will forever identify the scenes with my future
+reading.
+
+We all enjoyed a visit to the palace of the Luxembourg. This edifice was
+begun in the sixteenth century, and the present palace was chiefly built
+early in the next one, by Marie de Medicis, in imitation of one at
+Florence. Bonaparte used it when chief consul. The old senate held its
+sessions there till its dissolution, in 1814. I never saw a building
+whose proportions appeared to me so elegant. The court is a
+parallelogram of three hundred and sixty by three hundred feet. The
+front consists of two pavilions, joined by terraces, and in the centre
+rises a cupola, around which are statues. In such a palace fine rooms
+are to be expected, and here they are in great number. The Senate
+Chamber or Chamber of Peers, is very suitable for its purpose. The
+library is good, and contains about fifteen thousand volumes. The
+picture gallery is large, and at present principally filled with
+pictures of living artists, and at his death the picture of each one is
+removed to the Louvre. All the great paintings of Napoleon's battles are
+gone to Versailles; so we shall see them in the series. The chapel is an
+exquisite gem: it has, beyond all comparison, the most devotional air
+of any thing I have seen _of the sort_.
+
+The gardens are fine, and have some noble terraces, adorned with plenty
+of statues, some of which are quite old; but a great many new ones, by
+living artists, are rapidly taking their places. The balustrades of the
+terraces are beautified with groups of children, athletae, &c. Here are
+some fine old orange-trees, which were throwing out their blossoms most
+fragrantly; and I must not forget the noble clusters of chestnut-trees
+which are on the sides of the walks. The garden is a lovely spot, and I
+saw hundreds of old and young, who seemed to enjoy themselves highly. I
+am half surprised to find myself more delighted in Europe with the
+completeness and splendor of the gardens and public grounds than with
+the palaces and their internal gorgeousness. If I could carry back to my
+own beloved country any thing from England or France, it should be their
+gardens, their walks, their libraries and museums. As to the comforts
+and elegances of life, we have enough of them for our good. The Musee
+d'Artillerie is quite a place of interest, and here are seen some fine
+suits of ancient armor. The arrangement is good, and an hour's attention
+is well repaid.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+WELD.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 27.
+
+
+PARIS.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+This has been a great day for enjoyment, and has made us all in love
+with Paris. We have seen, this morning, that which has pleased me more
+than all else I have looked at in Europe. We spent several hours at the
+Hotel de Cluny, in the Rue des Mathurins. I am surprised that so many
+Americans come to Paris and never see this castle of curiosities. To
+understand our gratification, I must bore you a little with its history,
+and then you will see what a treat we enjoyed. This venerable pile was
+erected on the site of the Palais des Thermes, formerly the
+dwelling-place of the Roman governors of Gaul. Here Julian lived when he
+was made emperor of Rome, in 360. Of the extraordinary remains of this
+palace I shall tell you by and by. On this spot, then, in 1480, an abbot
+of Cluny commenced this building, and it was completed in 1505. This
+magnificent monastery--the city residence of the monks of Cluny--was
+often made the residence of royal and distinguished visitors. Here for
+two years lived Mary, the daughter of Henry VII. of England, and widow
+of Louis XII. of France, who, while here, married the Duke of Suffolk.
+Her chamber still exists, and we saw it in high preservation. This
+marriage, you will remember, laid the foundation for the claim of Lady
+Jane Grey to the crown. Here, too, for a season, the excellent abbess
+and the nuns of Port Royal found a refuge. Some forty years ago, it came
+into the hands of M. Sommerard, a man devoted to antiquarian pursuits,
+and here he expended a large property in forming a vast collection of
+all sorts of relics he could gather belonging to the medieval ages. A
+few years ago, he died, and then the government wisely purchased the
+hotel and its unrivalled museum for half a million of francs; and
+additions are constantly made to it of every curiosity that can
+illustrate the habits and manners of the early history of France and
+Europe. The building is very striking in its first aspect. It has
+several Gothic turrets, and very rich windows, and the court yards and
+garden are all in keeping. What good times those old abbots, and monks
+must have had in their visits to Paris, in such a palace as this was!
+You pass from room, to room, all filled with the antique, till you get
+leg-weary. The floors are exquisitely beautiful--some in fine old black
+oak, let in, in patterns; others are bricks and tiles, in mosaic. Then
+the old mantel-pieces are wonderfully fine. We saw plenty of tapestry,
+old as the hills; and one set of hangings was the history of David and
+Bathsheba. Some of the bedsteads are very curious. One belonged to
+Francis I. Perhaps the largest and most valuable collection of carved
+Wood furniture in the world is here to be seen. Such cabinets, chairs,
+tables, chests, I never imagined. The work is of the most delicate and
+complicated character. Then you find a wonderful collection of glass and
+earthen ware--cups and goblets belonging to men of note of every age in
+French history. One room is full of ancient armor, another of gems,
+enamels, &c, another of pictures of the most curious kind; and as to
+mirrors and looking-glasses, they are in great plenty; and china enough
+to make some ladies in America whom I know break the commandment.
+
+You can fancy, Charley, what sort of a place this must be, when I tell
+you that the catalogue of this collection is a volume of two hundred and
+forty octavo pages, and embraces eighteen hundred and ninety-five
+particulars. I have the catalogue, and can assure you that it includes
+some queer antiquities, of which we cannot speak particularly at
+present.
+
+A word or two about the ruins of Julian's Palace of the Baths. Here is
+still a vast hall, which was doubtless the place for cold baths. The
+dimensions are sixty feet by thirty-five. In the cellars are the evident
+remains of the warm baths. The walls are of immense thickness, and will
+probably last as long as the earth on which they rest. This hall is the
+place of deposit for any Roman sculpture that may be found in the
+excavations of the city.
+
+I am sure that, next to the Crystal Palace, this has been our greatest
+treat. We enjoyed this morning the more, because we had the company of
+Mr. George Sumner, who has lived in Paris so long that he is perfectly
+familiar with every object of interest. I never met with any one who
+appeared to have so much local knowledge as he possesses. He knows the
+history of every thing, and he seems at home on all names, dates, and
+facts of other ages. Whenever we read up, after a walk with him, we find
+that he knows all that is known; and in truth he talks like a book, but
+better than most books. The attention of this gentleman has been very
+great to us boys, and he seems never tired when doing us kindness. But
+if Mr. S. knows places well, he is no less intimate with men; and
+probably no American has ever enjoyed his opportunities to cultivate the
+acquaintance of the best and greatest men in Paris.
+
+We have visited the Church of St. Sulpice, which was begun in 1655, and
+only completed late in the last century. The portico is very grand, and
+is a double row of Doric pillars, forty feet high. It has two towers,
+which are over two hundred feet high, and on which are telegraphs. The
+church forms a cross, and is four hundred and thirty-two feet in
+length, one hundred and seventy-four in width, and ninety-nine in
+height. The organ is finely carved, and is more elaborate in its work
+than any I have seen yet. The statuary, both in bronze and marble, here,
+is beautiful, and the candelabra are greatly admired. As to pictures, I
+can only say they are many and fine. The marble monument and statue to
+Languet de Gergy, the former _cure_ of this parish, and who mainly
+contributed to its erection or completion, is much admired, and on this
+tomb is the most elegant inscription of modern times. But I cannot
+insert it here. Directly in front of the church, in an open square, is a
+very fine fountain, which partakes of the ecclesiastical in its
+style--having in four niches the statues of Bossuet, Massillon,
+Flechier, and Fenelon.
+
+In our walk we were all struck with an immense wooden pile, which we
+found was the Bibliotheque St. Genevieve. The front is very chaste, and
+has very many arched windows. The library is more than three hundred
+feet in length, and is covered on the exterior with the names of all the
+great authors of every age and nation. We saw the names of many of our
+countrymen--Washington, Franklin, Rumford, Clinton, Cooper, Prescott,
+Irving, &c. We were unable to enter, as repairs were in progress, but
+were told that the library has two hundred thousand volumes, and
+several thousand MSS.
+
+We have all been much gratified with the Church of St. Etienne du Mont.
+It boasts an antiquity that dates back to 1131, and its tower and turret
+are known to be as early as 1222. The exterior is remarkable for a
+strange mixture of architecture, and some of the details are very
+beautiful. The interior cannot fail to interest a thoughtful person, I
+think. The pictures are very fine indeed, and some of the marbles are of
+the highest excellence. We went into the little Chapel of St. Genevieve,
+the patron saint of Paris, where is the tomb of the saint. The tomb was
+literally stuck over with small tallow candles, and looked like a piece
+of meat larded. The room was filled with worshippers, all on their
+knees; and two women had as much anguish in their faces as I ever saw.
+All the people kneeling at this tomb seemed far more intent and in
+earnest than the hundreds at grand mass in the church proper. Just as we
+stepped outside this chapel, we found on the wall the monuments of
+Racine and Pascal, who are both buried in this church. The church was
+full of people, and in one little chapel the priest was baptizing an
+infant. We went in and looked on. It was the first time I had ever
+witnessed this monstrous mummery in the Catholic church; and I called in
+the Dr. and Mr. S., who were looking at some statuary. The priest was
+hardly decent at his work. He did it all in a hurry,--put oil and
+something else on the child, fore and aft,--and how men and women could
+stand and let the stupidity take place on their children, I cannot
+understand. After seeing Pascal's grave, and thinking of his immortal
+works, it was poor preparation for the mountebank exhibition, and
+awkward work of making Christians, that we witnessed. You know, Charley,
+that I am not a lover of Romanism, but I never felt so thankful as on
+that day for being a Protestant.
+
+The pictures of this church are very well worthy of careful
+notice--especially two, said to have been given by the city to the
+saint, who caused a famine to stay its ravages, and restored a sick king
+by intercession.
+
+Now, pray, do not think me church mad if I carry you once more to
+another old one. I am sure, if you had seen it, that it would cause you
+to talk about it often. Well, it is the Church St. Germain des Pres.
+This is regarded as the oldest in Paris, and was originally an abbey.
+There was a church here as early as 560. This was probably built about
+the middle of the ninth century, and its completion was in the twelfth;
+for it was consecrated by Pope Alexander III. In this church was the
+tomb of Childebert, the founder of the first edifice. The abbey had a
+refectory, cloisters, &c, was surrounded by a moat, and had been
+fortified. A large open field, close by, was the resort of duellists,
+and many a bloody affray has there occurred. Casimir, King of Poland,
+was an abbot of this church. The revolution was sadly injurious to this
+fine sanctuary, and it was for a time converted into a saltpetre
+manufactory. Charles X. repaired it, and after him Louis Philippe
+carefully superintended its restoration. The inside of the church is a
+cross, with a circular choir; and the arches are semi-circular, and
+indicate great antiquity. The restoration of the nave and choir has been
+most carefully done, at immense expense. The roof of the choir is
+painted deep blue, with stars. The capitals of the columns are richly
+gilt, and the shafts are painted in red stripes--exact copies of the old
+devices. Nothing can be finer than the marble altar and the carved
+stalls of the choir. Nor does the church lack for historical names among
+its dead. Here are the tombs of Earl Douglass, Descartes, Mabillon,
+Montfaucon, and Casimir of Poland, who died, abbot, in 1672. Every thing
+here in ecclesiastical architecture is so different from all that we
+have in our country, that I examine these noble relics with great
+pleasure, and do not know but I shall soon become as antiquarian in my
+taste as-you know who.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+JAMES.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 28.
+
+
+PARIS.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+On a fine morning we rode over to the Jardin des Plantes, accompanied by
+Mr. R----, whose long residence has made him very familiar with this
+lovely spot. I think we all looked forward to this excursion with great
+anticipation, because we knew that this was the most famous garden in
+Europe; and then, in connection with it, are the richest cabinets in the
+world of natural history, mineralogy, geology, and a noble collection of
+living animals from all countries. Ever since 1635, the world has been
+placed under contribution to enrich this spot. The greatest botanists
+and naturalists of Europe have labored here. Buffon himself was the
+great man of the place in his day. Even revolutionary fury spared this
+retreat and treasury of Nature. Bonaparte made it his pet, and when the
+troops of Europe were at the walls of Paris, they agreed to respect and
+preserve the spot so dear to science. This establishment is on the banks
+of the river, and there are many portals by which entrance may be
+obtained. The gardens are very large, but I cannot speak of their exact
+size. They are in the neatest order. Every shrub and flower, plant and
+tree, is labelled, so that reference is easy. I was delighted to see,
+on a lofty eminence, the cedar of Lebanon. It is a glorious tree, and
+was planted here in 1734, and is now about twelve feet round at its
+base. We also saw some palm-trees which were given by Louis XIV. They
+were, I should think, nearly thirty feet high.
+
+The Menagerie has long been famous, and is most admirably laid out in
+walks and enclosures, so that the animals have plenty of room for
+exercise and pasture. Since the days of Noah's ark, I suppose there
+never was such a collection of animals, clean and unclean. The bears,
+elephants, lions, and tigers are all what are called first-rate
+specimens.
+
+We were pointed out the house where the celebrated Cuvier lived, and
+which was his favorite residence. Here was his life's labor, the
+Zooelogical Cabinet, which he arranged according to his system. Only
+fancy a house about four hundred feet long, having three stories, and
+all filled up with nearly two hundred thousand specimens; and the
+preparations are almost as fine as the animal was in life.
+
+The Museum of Comparative Anatomy, also, was the labor of Cuvier. The
+collections of mineralogy and geology are very extensive; but I did not
+have much time to examine them, nor are they as much in my line as some
+other things. The specimens of precious stones were curious, and I was
+pleased to see amber containing perfect insects, perhaps antediluvian
+insects. And so we employed three hours upon what I should have liked to
+pass three whole days. But it would take years of diligent study to
+understand what is here to be seen.
+
+If a person walks about Paris and inquires much as to the history of the
+city and its improvements, as we Americans say, he will soon find that
+Paris has been chiefly indebted for her grandeur to Henry IV., Louis
+XIV., Napoleon, and Louis Philippe. Bridges, places, arches, and
+fountains show how much Paris owes to these rulers. Of fountains there
+are, I should think, nearly a hundred in the city, and some are
+exceedingly fine. The Seine is not much of an affair. With us, it would
+be only a muddy brook. Some of the bridges that span it are fine. I have
+seen nothing in Paris more picturesque than the prospect from the Pont
+Neuf. It is my favorite stand point. Off to the right are the towers of
+Notre Dame, and the long line of old houses which tell of centuries upon
+centuries since they were built; and on the left of the river are the
+Hotel de Ville, St. Germain L'Auxerrois; and some of the most venerable
+streets. From the bell tower of St. Germain the signal was rung for the
+infamous massacre of the Protestants, on St. Bartholomew's eve, 23d of
+August, 1572. In the Rue de l'Arbre sec, at No. 14, was Admiral Coligny
+murdered on that occasion. It was formerly known as the Hotel Ponthieu,
+but is to be demolished in a few weeks, to make way for improvements. We
+felt a desire to see the spot where the Bastile formerly stood, and
+which was destroyed by the mob in July, 1789, and the key of which is
+now at Mount Vernon, having been sent as a present to Washington. This
+was the theatre of the greatest resistance made by the insurgents in
+June, 1848; and here, too, it was that the Archbishop of Paris met with
+his death. On the site of the Bastile, Louis Philippe laid the
+foundation of a column which commemorates the revolution of 1830. This
+column is of bronze, and is one hundred and sixty-three feet high, in
+addition to the pedestal of white marble, supported by immense granite
+blocks. The diameter of the column is, I believe, twelve feet, and it
+cost about twelve hundred thousand francs. There is no masonry in the
+interior. The staircase is suspended, and the whole concern vibrates
+with the passing breeze. I did not ascend, you may be sure. The
+Corinthian capital, over which is a gallery with rails, is very
+beautiful, and is the largest casting in bronze that is known--or,
+rather, was, for I _think_ that the Amazon at the London Exhibition will
+take the palm for size. On the globe which surmounts the pillar stands a
+colossal gilt figure, which represents Liberty. On the bands which
+encircle the pillar are the names of those who were killed in the
+three days of July, amounting to fire hundred and four. All around and
+beneath are interred the remains of these patriots.
+
+[Illustration: Colonne de Juillet.]
+
+We are going to take the Cemetery at Pere la Chaise for to-morrow's
+excursion; and the rest of the day I must devote to letters home, as the
+packet day is close at hand.
+
+Yours,
+
+WELD.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 29.
+
+
+PARIS.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+This morning, as we were taking a very comfortable breakfast at the
+coffee-room of our hotel, and as I was reading Galignani's daily paper,
+I found a person at the next table addressing me, in nasal twang,
+"Stranger, is this fellow Galignani a reliable chap?" I assured him that
+he passed for an authority. Laying down his paper on the table, he
+pathetically described the tramp which the programme for the
+sight-seeing of yesterday's paper had given him, and declared his
+inability to keep up with the instructions for that day. Finding that he
+was a character, I carried on the conversation; and he talked most
+edifyingly to all in the room, as he spoke loud enough to be heard at
+the very end. I inquired if he had been to London. His reply was, "I
+reckon I have; why, I come on purpose to see the _Crystial_ Palace."
+"Well, sir," I said, "and how did you like it?" "O, that exhibition is
+some!" "And pray, sir, what did you think of the Greek Slave?" "There,
+now, stranger, I takes it that where she were raised _cotton was
+dreadful scarce."_ This, was too much and too good; and I think it is by
+far the best thing I have heard about the exhibition. How the boys
+managed to keep quiet, I know not; but they did as well as could be
+expected. The room was thoroughly awake, and I resigned our countryman
+to other hands.
+
+After breakfast, we rode to the Cemetery of Pere la Chaise. This spot
+has for centuries been celebrated for its beauty; and, for a period of
+more than one hundred years, the Jesuits had a country residence here.
+They had it early in the sixteenth century, or, perhaps, at the close of
+the fifteenth. Louis XIV. made his confessor, Pere la Chaise, the
+superior of the society; and in 1705 it was the head-quarters of
+Jesuitism in France.
+
+The present cemetery was consecrated in 1804; and the entire grounds are
+walled in, and they are very nearly two hundred acres. You know how much
+I admire Greenwood and Mount Auburn. Well, I still prefer them to this
+Golgotha. The walks are some of them fine, but the tombs are too thick.
+There is no regularity. It looks as though there had been a rain storm
+of tombs and monuments, and they lie as they fell. This is the very
+metropolis of death. Some of the monuments are elegant indeed, but often
+their beauties are hidden. The most attractive spot to us was the
+resting-place of "the bravest of the brave." Ney yet has no monument.
+The tombs of Casimir Perrier, the Countess Demidoff, Abelard and
+Heloise, General Macdonald, Lavalette, Gobert, Foy, Moliere, Laplace,
+and Junot are some that pleased us most, and are exquisite specimens of
+art. Many of these tombs have small rooms, with altars and glass doors.
+Opposite the altar is a chair, and we saw several mourners in devout
+attitude at the shrine of affection. I have heard from a Parisian of
+great intelligence, and who has been connected with the city government,
+that very nearly, if not quite, thirty millions of dollars have been
+spent upon this cemetery. Of course, the expense of sculpture here has
+been enormous, as the best talent of Europe has contributed to adorn the
+spot, and perpetuate the memory of the departed.
+
+On leaving this charnel-house of mortality, we drove to the Abattoir de
+Popincourt, which is the largest in the city, and occupies six hundred
+and forty-five feet by fire hundred and seventy. On entering, we found
+four slaughter-houses, each standing alone. Here, too, are sheds for
+four thousand sheep, and stables for four hundred oxen. There are also
+four melting-houses. We also noticed a large building called the
+_Triperie_, for preparing tripe and the feet of animals. The week we
+were there the statistics of slaughter were as follows: Eight hundred
+and seventy-two oxen, three hundred and fifty-six cows, seven hundred
+calves, and two thousand eight hundred and seventy-five sheep. Nothing
+of the sort can be kept cleaner than this establishment. The water ran
+down every channel, and very little blood could be seen, or effluvia
+noticed. When will New York have its _abattoirs_? No city in the world
+needs such an auxiliary to health and comfort more than she does.
+Perhaps the good people will call for one after a few more visitations
+of cholera. There are four other similar establishments in Paris.
+
+We had a nice ride home round the boulevards, and, stopping at the
+consul's office, found a famous budget of letters and papers, and with
+great pleasure we addressed ourselves to their contents. I am amused to
+see how various are the demands made upon the time and services of a
+consul. He needs to have the patience of Job; and if he answers
+satisfactorily and authoritatively the questions which I have heard
+propounded, he ought to have in his library the acts of every state
+legislature in the Union. Marriage, death, removal of deceased
+relatives from their places of sepulture, rates of interest, value of
+stocks, condition of railroads, and statistics of all sorts have been
+topics which I have heard laid before him for advice and opinion. Very
+few men, however, possess more general knowledge of the United States
+than our consul--Mr. Goodrich--does; and his kindness will lead him to
+do all he can to satisfy the querist.
+
+Yours, as ever,
+
+J.O.C.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 30.
+
+
+PARIS.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+Yesterday we went to the Cirque, in the Champs Elysees. It is a very
+large building, with sixteen sides, and behind is another spacious one
+for the horses. The intention of the builder was to represent a Moorish
+hall; and the pillars of iron are, with the panellings of the walls,
+gilt and frescoed. The roof is very elegant, and the largest chandelier
+in Paris is in the centre, blazing with I cannot tell you how many gas
+lights. The circus will accommodate about six or seven thousand people,
+and when we were there it was very nearly full. We paid two francs each,
+and had the best seats. The performances were very good, and some quite
+beyond any thing I had before seen. There was one feat that was really
+great. They placed planks upon supporters, from the centre of the circus
+up to the edge of the gallery, making an angle of about fifty feet.
+Well, Charley, a fellow walked in with a ball, about three quarters of a
+yard in diameter, and on this ball he trotted about on the ground for
+perhaps two minutes; then he marches it to the foot of this plank, still
+standing on it, and up he goes,--yes, he totes and coaxes the ball under
+his feet, up, up,--till at last he stands on it on the gallery; and
+then, did not the place ring again with applause? But then it is not
+over; for down he comes the selfsame way--and that is the tug of war;
+but he did it. This he did _backwards_, also, each way. I never saw any
+thing before that would equal this, and I want to see him do it again
+before we leave Paris. The horsemanship was very good. But there was one
+fellow who threw himself into the very oddest attitudes you can fancy.
+He looked, as he moved about on the earth, like any thing but a human.
+We were all much amused with the audience. Entire families were there.
+You could see parties coming in where there was no mistake about
+grandfather and grandmother, father, mother, and all the children. It
+seems that all classes here have a taste for amusement, and pursue it
+with much earnestness. The audience behaved very well--every thing was
+quiet. I noticed a great many well-dressed women who carried round
+crickets to the ladies, for their feet, and for this they got a few
+sous.
+
+As we returned, we found, in the grounds through which we walked, scores
+of establishments for juvenile amusement--stalls where there are
+exhibitions of moving figures, and at which you may shoot with bow and
+arrow by paying a small price. Not far from the Cirque we met with an
+out-door concert, in a very tasty garden--the performers all occupying a
+fine orchestra. The audience were seated at tables in the garden, taking
+ice cream, lemonade, coffee, &c. Now and then one of the singers would
+pass round and take up a collection.
+
+This day we went to the Hippodrome, which is a very large enclosure,
+nearly opposite the Triumphal Arch. This is no less than three hundred
+and eighty feet in diameter, and will seat all of ten thousand persons,
+who are under shelter, but the course-ground is open to the heavens.
+This place is open from three to five during the warm weather, and is
+under the same management as the Cirque. Our great object in coming was
+to see the ball feat again, and also the skirmishes of some twenty
+Arabs, who are here exhibiting their tactics. I never saw a more
+reckless, savage-looking set of fellows than they were. Only one looked
+like a venerable Arab--he did look patriarchal. They had several sham
+attacks, and rode about shooting helter skelter, looking as if they
+would enjoy the real thing much better. These fellows are said to be
+some of the Algerine captives brought over by the French. Our friend Mr.
+Hodgson, who lived so long in Turkey, and speaks Arabic, talked with
+them, much to their surprise.
+
+We have determined to leave Paris this week, and commence our journey
+through Belgium, Holland, go up the Rhine, and take Switzerland on our
+return to Paris--and perhaps we may leave to-morrow. I ought not to omit
+saying that we have had a very pleasant Sunday in our own parlor here.
+We did not feel much like going to the French church that morning; and
+the doctor invited the Rev. Dr. Murray, Dr. Chetwood, Rev. Mr. Darling,
+Judge Darling, Rev. Mr. Hovey, Mr. King, and some other friends to join
+us, and have a religious meeting. It was a very interesting one, too.
+Dr. Murray spoke about the state of France, the need the French had of
+our Sunday, and how they could not be a free and happy people, and get
+along without soldiers, till they had it. All the ministers took part;
+and I shall not very soon forget that day; and then I think we all
+thought a good deal about home, as each minister talked and prayed for
+our families.
+
+Our next letters will, I suppose, be from Brussels.
+
+
+Yours, &c.,
+
+GEORGE.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 31.
+
+
+BRUSSELS.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+The fine weather, and the advantage of having pleasant company, has
+induced us to leave Paris and pursue our journey, leaving many things to
+see in the great metropolis when we return. I forgot to tell you that in
+Paris I had the pleasure to meet an English clergyman, a relative of
+mine, who was there passing the honey-moon. This gentleman and his lady
+joined our party; and we are now to go together as far as Antwerp,
+certainly. We took the rail from Paris direct to Brussels,--a distance
+of two hundred and thirty miles,--and passed through Amiens, Arras,
+Douai, Valenciennes, Quievrain, St. Jemappes,--here King Louis Philippe,
+with General Dumourier, in 1792, gained a battle over an Austrian army,
+and so gained Belgium to France, little thinking that his son-in-law
+would be its king,--Mons, Bruin le Compte, Halle, and so to Brussels. At
+Quievrain we found the custom-house of Belgium, and the little river,
+called Aunelle, is the boundary of the republic. Mons is a fine-looking
+place, fortified strongly. The region is one entire coal field, and
+there are many pits in operation. Ten miles from Mons Marlborough fought
+the battle of Malplaquet, in 1709. When we passed, the town was in
+great commotion with the trial of Count Bocarme and his wife for the
+murder of her brother. She was by some means acquitted, but he was
+convicted and executed by the guillotine.
+
+As soon as we entered Belgium, we were struck with the improvement of
+the lands. The small towns look remarkably thrifty, and every place
+seems to speak of manufactures and industry.
+
+At Brussels, we put up at the Hotel Bellevue, in the Place Royale. The
+situation is good. In a large square, and in front of our hotel, is the
+magnificent statue, in bronze, of Godfrey, Duke of Boulogne, the cast of
+which we so admired as the Crusader, in the exhibition. In this square
+Leopold was inaugurated King of Belgium.
+
+Every traveller enters Brussels with expectation of pleasure. He has
+heard that it is Paris in miniature; and then Byron has thrown around it
+his witchery of song. I can see but a dull and dim resemblance to Paris.
+Brussels, with its suburbs, which are quite large, has only a population
+of one hundred and thirty thousand. The town is very clean, looks cosy,
+and has some very beautiful edifices. But you come here full of fancy
+about "Belgium's capital," "her beauty and her chivalry," and the
+"windowed niche of that high hall," and you see at first only a plain,
+good, comfortable town. However, there is quite enough of romance,
+after all, in this same place; and when you traverse it thoroughly, you
+find enough to call out deep interest; and before you leave it you are
+much gratified, and, in all probability, feel desirous to see it again.
+I like to be in places that have a history; and this Brussels has. Let
+me tell you about this place. It stands on the brow of a high bill, and
+the upper and lower towns are different affairs entirely. The summit is
+covered with palaces, public buildings, boulevards, parks, &c, and the
+lower part is in the valley of the River Senne. Brussels was a city in
+709. In 976, the Emperor Otho held his court there; in 1044, it was
+fortified and had seven gates; in 1405, a fire destroyed fourteen
+hundred houses; and in 1549, it suffered from two earthquakes. But still
+it grew and flourished under the dukes of Burgundy, and became famous
+for tapestry, lace, and fire-arms. In the days of Charles V., the city
+of Brussels was at its zenith. Philip II., his son, and his infamous
+general, the Duke of Alva, ravaged this city and vicinage. The people
+were fanatical, and the rulers cruel. In 1695, the city was besieged,
+and four thousand houses destroyed by the bombardment. In 1794, Belgium
+was annexed to France. After the battle of Waterloo, the Prince of
+Orange was proclaimed sovereign of Belgium. In 1830, the revolution
+displaced the Orange dynasty, and Belgium broke off from Holland; and
+in 1831, the people chose Leopold for their king. The first thing I
+wanted to see was the Hotel de Villa, which, many years ago, pleased me
+exceedingly; and I think all our party have been delighted with it. This
+is the noblest civil building in Belgium; it stands in a fine square,
+and is a glorious specimen of the Lombardy Gothic school. The spire is
+of open fretwork, and the sun shines through it. It has long been
+esteemed as one of the most precious works of architecture in Europe.
+The extreme height is three hundred and sixty-four feet, and it was
+erected in 1444. On the spire is a gilt statue of St. Michael, seventeen
+feet high, which turns with the wind. In front of this town hall Counts
+Egmont and Horn were executed, under the eye of Alva; but they were
+nobly avenged by William of Orange. At the head of a very steep and
+narrow street stands a most imposing structure. It is the Cathedral
+Church of St. Gudule. The foundation was laid in 1010. The front view is
+very much like that of Notre Dame, at Paris. This church is occasionally
+called St. Michael's in old writers, as it had a double consecration to
+the archangel and Gudule. The interior of this cathedral is very
+impressive, although the architecture is simple. The pillars supporting
+the roof are massive, and must receive the admiration of all spectators.
+There are brackets attached to them, on which stand finely-executed
+figures of the Savior, the Virgin Mary, and the Apostles, executed by
+the following renowned sculptors: Vandelyn, Quellyn, Tobias, and
+Duquesnoy. The pulpit is regarded as the finest in Europe, and is the
+most elaborate composition of sculpture in wood that is extant. It is
+the work of the great Verbruggen, and was originally executed for a
+Jesuit society at Louvain, in 1699. The art is exquisite, and far
+superior to the taste which is exhibited. The pulpit represents the
+expulsion of Adam and Eve from paradise by the angel. Death is seen in
+pursuit of the guilty fugitives; and on the extreme summit is the Virgin
+Mary, bruising the serpent's head with a cross. On the steps and
+balusters are various beasts and birds; the owl, ape, and peacock are
+conspicuous. We found preparations for a great church holiday, to be
+observed the next day; and the Virgin Mary was gayly decked out in
+embroidery, lace, and jewelry.
+
+A monument to Count Merode, in a chapel, is a most exquisite production,
+and was executed by Geefs. Here Charles V., in 1616, held a chapter of
+the Golden Fleece. The restoration of this beautiful church has been
+carefully attended to lately, and the new windows of painted glass are
+very fine; but some of the old windows, by Weyde, are grand indeed.
+
+In this church the famous sacramental wafers are placed away as relics
+of inestimable value. Perhaps you recollect the story of the Jews who
+purloined them, and profanely stuck the consecrated bread with knives;
+when, lo, a miracle! blood came from the incision, and the unbelievers
+were smitten down. Of course, they were taken, and tormented, and burnt.
+This was at the close of the fourteenth century. The great celebration
+of this Popish imposition of a miracle is kept up in July every year.
+
+All one side of this noble building is a set of mean, low, one and
+two-story shanties, which deface the appearance of the venerable pile.
+
+While in the church, we saw vast numbers of boys and girls, who had come
+to make their confession and prepare for their first communion, to take
+place next day. We often saw in the streets of Paris and Brussels girls
+dressed in white, with wreaths of flowers, and boys, with dresses that
+looked as if they were bound to a wedding; these were young people going
+to communion. The poor children in this church looked as funny on the
+occasion, sitting and chatting, waiting for their turn to confess, as
+the priest looked tired and indifferent.
+
+We spent much of our leisure time walking in the noble park and gardens.
+O, when shall we have in America such care taken of our few green spots,
+in our great cities, as is here displayed? No lady can be more chary of
+the order of her drawing-room than are the authorities at Brussels of
+these beautiful promenades. Then, too, here are avenues of trees that
+make you in love with the city as you enter it. I do wish all our towns
+would raise committees of public-spirited men, who should undertake, by
+voluntary contributions, or town action, to plant the roadsides that
+form the entrances to these places. I was delighted, some months ago, to
+hear that a few gentlemen at Haverhill, in Massachusetts, had banded
+together for this purpose. Charley, if you live to take an active share
+in the business of life, try and do something for the place you live in
+that shall appear after you have gone; make the spot of your residence
+better, because you have once lived in it. We are too selfish; we do not
+fulfil our duty to those who are to come after us; we do not, even in
+the matters of this present state, live up to the great law of our
+being--"No man liveth to himself."
+
+Leopold's Palace is exceedingly plain and unpretending for a royal
+residence. It was originally composed of two wings, through which a
+street ran its course; but they are now united by a central building,
+with a handsome portico, having for its support six Corinthian pillars.
+The edifice is about three hundred and ninety feet in length; and, while
+the front is on the Park, the rear opens on an extensive garden. At the
+opposite side of the Park is the Chamber of Representatives. In the
+Park, and near to the Palace, is the prettiest glen and bit of miniature
+wood I know of.
+
+We found our accomplished representative, the Hon. Mr. Bayard, kind and
+attentive. He lives in a charming part of the city; and his position
+must be a pleasant one, having good society in the place, and near to
+Paris.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+J.O.C.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 32.
+
+
+BRUSSELS.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+I like this city very much--it is so clean. The buildings in the upper
+part of the town are new, and in pleasant contrast to the lower portion,
+which looks so very old. I think, from walking about a great deal, that
+there must be many English people here; for they carry their country in
+their dress and manner. We spent a morning at the various shops, and
+principally at the lace and print stores. We purchased some very
+beautiful engravings, lithographs, and illustrated works, which will
+remind us of our pleasant days in Brussels, and which I hope may amuse
+our friends. The lacework executed here is uncommonly rich, and, you
+know, is very famous; but, I am sorry to say, also very expensive. A
+person may soon get rid of large amounts of money here. We made some
+purchases for the ladies at home; but no doubt, if they had been with
+us, the bills would have been heavier than they were.
+
+The way we manage for getting money while we are travelling is by a
+circular letter from Baring & Brothers. On this we are introduced to
+houses in the great cities through which our route lies, and the letter
+states our credit at London; then from these houses we obtain what we
+need, and have each house indorse the amount; so that, as we go from
+place to place, our financial position in London still appears. In
+Brussels we found the banker, or, at least, his agent,--for whether the
+banker or his clerk we did not know,--a perfect specimen of vulgarity
+and rudeness. He was the most uncivil fellow that we have yet seen in
+Europe. His most pleasant words were grunts, and his motions and
+attitudes were almost threats. He looked like a Jew, but he acted like a
+wild Arab; and his manoeuvres would have been a godsend to the comic Dr.
+Valentine, if he had witnessed their display. His gray hairs did not
+command respect; and what made his rudeness so hard to bear, was the
+fact that nothing occurred to call it out. We probably met him at an
+unhappy moment.
+
+The Museum is in the old palace of the Spanish governors of the Low
+Countries, and long before their day it was the ducal residence of the
+Brabants. The building was begun in 1346, and completed in 1502.
+
+The pictures of Europe are one of my great objects of interest, and here
+we begin to find them. We have left the London and Paris collections for
+examination as we return. From the catalogue, we found there were about
+six hundred pictures here, and some statuary. The chief attraction of
+this gallery is found in the few early Flemish paintings which it
+boasts. I think a Gerard Dow will long be remembered by me. It is an
+interior, and the effect of the light in the room is admirable. Many of
+the paintings are styled Gothic; that means they were painted previous
+to the time of Van Eyck. An interior of the Antwerp Cathedral, by Neefs,
+is very fine; and I was much pleased with some large pictures by
+Philippe Champagne, some' of whose portraits I have seen in New York.
+Here are four pictures by Paul Veronese. No. 285 is the Marriage of
+Cana. I think I never saw a picture in which I was so impressed with the
+magnificence of the coloring. The table is richly spread, and the light
+appears on it, coming down the columns; the rich colors of the fruits
+contrasting strongly with the white table and gay dress of one of the
+figures. The management of light, by introducing various colors in the
+dresses, is wonderful, and the blue sky produces the happiest effect. I
+never before understood how much a picture depended on the arrangement
+of color. The drapery of this composition struck me greatly; and
+although I know little of great paintings, yet I do know what I like,
+and this picture, as a whole, seems to me wonderfully fine.
+
+In 1695, when this town was bombarded by the French, fourteen churches
+were destroyed, some of which contained the best pictures of Rubens,
+Vandyke, and other great painters of that century. I observed here a
+good portrait of Henrietta, queen of Charles I., who seems to have been
+a favorite with painters. I have seen a score of her faces by Vandyke at
+Windsor, Paris, and elsewhere. This was by Mignard. All make her very
+beautiful.
+
+The Adoration of the Magi, by Van Eyck, the inventor of oil painting, is
+curious; and a Descent from the Cross, by Hemling, who flourished about
+1450, interested me. Amongst the pictures by unknown masters I saw some
+good ones. I thought the portraits in this class very spirited. One of
+Bloody Mary was quite a picture.
+
+In this building, too, the doctor found a treat in the great Burgundy
+Library, where are nearly twenty thousand MSS., some of which are the
+most richly-illuminated vellums that are known. Some of the miniatures
+of the early fathers and saints are of exquisite beauty. This precious
+collection has twice, I learn, been stolen by the French, as were also
+the best pictures. The library consists of about two hundred thousand
+volumes. I saw some glorious specimens of Russian malachite.
+
+You would, I am sure, Charley, hardly forgive me if I had had so little
+of your love of the curious as to go away from Brussels without a look
+at the world-renowned fountain--the _Manekin._ One day, when upon a
+tramp, we inquired it out. The dirty dog is a little bronze figure, made
+by the famous Duquesnoy in 1648. It stands at the corner of the Rue du
+Chene and the Rue de l'Etuve. He still maintains his ground; and there
+seems no danger of his losing his occupation.
+
+The Botanical Garden lies on the side of the hill leading from the city
+towards Antwerp, and is apparently kept in fine order. It is about six
+hundred and fifty yards long, and I should think nearly two hundred
+wide.
+
+To-morrow we are to spend at Waterloo; and George is well nigh
+distracted. We have heard very little from him, since we reached
+Brussels, but about Napoleon, Wellington, Ney, and Grouchy. The
+last-named marshal finds no favor at his hands, as he regards him as a
+traitor to the emperor at the critical moment. One thing is certain; he
+knows more about the battle than most persons, and will feel quite at
+home when he once makes out his stand-point. We all anticipate his
+transports with interest. We are to start early; so good-night.
+
+Yours,
+
+WELD.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 33.
+
+
+BRUSSELS.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+I am thoroughly tired out with a day at Waterloo; and, though I should
+be glad to retire at an early hour, yet, as to-morrow's mail takes all
+letters for the next steamer, we are all hard at the duty and pleasure
+of correspondence with our friends. I shall give you but a hurried
+account of our visit to the great battle field of Europe. We were all up
+early in the morning, and, after an excellent breakfast, we engaged a
+carriage and pair of horses for the day. The distance is about twelve
+miles. After riding about two miles, we found the road touched the
+Forest of Soignies, so well known in consequence of Byron's description
+of the march of the army from Brussels to Waterloo. On the way we met
+several guides, who commended their services to our notice, backed up by
+testimonials of former travellers. We selected Pirson, and he took his
+place beside the driver, and we arrived in two hour at the village.
+Passing by what is called a museum, we addressed ourselves at once to a
+survey of the field. There are no signs of the past, excepting in
+monuments and houses that are famous for their being occupied by the
+hostile parties during the battle. We turned our attention first to the
+Chateau of Hougomont, because, from our knowledge of the transactions of
+the great day, we regarded it as the grand point of attraction, and the
+central one for our observations. This farm is an old-looking affair,
+with out-buildings--a small chapel, twelve or fifteen feet long, and the
+garden and orchard, having a strong stone wall around them. This was the
+strong point of the British army; and if Napoleon could have gained it,
+he would have turned the flank of the enemy. To this he directed all his
+power, and the marks of the conflict are yet very apparent. All day the
+attack was made, upon the farm by thousands, under the command of Jerome
+Bonaparte. The wall was pierced with loopholes, and through these the
+English Coldstream Guards kept up a most destructive fire upon the
+French troops. The exterior of the wall still shows what a terrific
+onset was made. We went into the house, obtained some refreshment,
+bought some relics, and, among other things, a neat brass crucifix,
+which hung against the wall. We then, went to look at the farms La Belle
+Alliance and La Haye Sainte--the famous mound where the dead were
+interred, and which is surmounted by the Belgic lion. This is an immense
+work, two hundred feet high; and from the summit we saw the entire
+field. Of course, we all had our feelings excited at standing on a spot
+where the two greatest soldiers of Europe measured swords, and had a
+continent for spectators of the conflict.
+
+When the French army marched through Waterloo, on their way to Antwerp,
+in 1831, they looked savagely at the Belgian monument, and one man fired
+his musket at the lion, and the mark is still visible upon his chin.
+
+We were much gratified at the farm-house of Hougomont; and the hour we
+spent in its orchard and gardens will long be remembered by us all. I
+have read an account of the attack upon the house, which says, "The
+Belgian yeoman's garden wall was the safeguard of Europe, whose
+destinies hung upon the possession of this house." The garden wall is
+covered on the inside with ivy; and here we secured several roots of the
+plant, and, having bought a basket at the farm-house, we planted them in
+earth taken from beside the grave of a British officer, who fell in the
+orchard; his tombstone bears the name of J.L. Blackman. These plants
+will give us trouble to carry; but Dr. Choules has determined upon
+carrying them home for Mr. Hall, whose stone house needs ivy on the
+walls, and he intends obtaining roots from various places of interest in
+Europe, to serve as mementoes of other lands.
+
+The church is a small affair, but is full of the testimonies of love and
+affection from fathers, mothers, brothers, sisters, wives, children, and
+friends, to those who fell in the bloody conflict.
+
+We were annoyed by urchins, who beset our steps, eager to sell us
+genuine relics of the field, which are likely to increase in number as
+long as there is a demand for them. George, of course, was in his
+element, and he did little but plant the different sites in his memory,
+for the purpose of comparing notes, by and by, with Gleig, Headley, &c.,
+&c.
+
+I do not attempt to give you any thing like a description of the place,
+or an account of the battle, as you have books which are devoted to
+these points.
+
+It is a circumstance worthy of notice that, in 1705, the Duke of
+Marlborough came very near fighting a battle with the French, on this
+ground, but was prevented by the Dutch commissioners who were with him.
+
+We obtained some good engravings of the buildings that are famous for
+their connection with the battle, but they are nothing like as fine as
+the folio illustrated volume of colored engravings which we have so
+often looked over with interest. I tried to get a copy in London at any
+price, and would have given any thing in reason; but the work is out of
+print and the market, and can only be gotten at the sale of a collector.
+
+On returning to Brussels, and enjoying our dinner at a late hour, we
+passed the evening in the Arcades, where we saw some beautiful goods
+exposed for sale, and again examined some lacework. You will smile at
+the idea of pocket handkerchiefs which cost from one hundred to one
+thousand dollars each. The embroidery of letters upon lacework is
+costly; and we saw single letters which had required a week's work.
+
+We like this city, and, if time allowed us, should certainly pass a week
+here. I should not forget to say that we saw the king in the Park, near
+to his palace. He looks like a man of fifty-five, and, I thought, had a
+melancholy air.
+
+Yours,
+
+JAMES.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 34.
+
+
+ANTWERP.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+
+In company still with our friends from Bristol on a wedding tour, we
+took the rail for Antwerp. The arrangements of the railroad in Belgium
+seem to me as perfect as they can be made. All is order, civility, and
+comfort. On starting for this place, we had the curiosity to inquire as
+to the number of passengers, and found thirteen first class, seventy-one
+second class, and one hundred and three third class. The road we took
+lay through a level country, but cultivated to a great degree; and the
+produce was chiefly clover, beans, potatoes, grain, and turnips. On
+leaving Brussels, we noticed the fine botanical gardens on our right,
+and the Allee Verte, a noble avenue of trees which reaches to Laeken, a
+pretty village, dating as far back as the seventh century, and
+containing a fine palace, where Leopold frequently resides. Napoleon
+once occupied this palace, and here it is said that he planned his
+Russian campaign. The park is spacious, and the village has a celebrated
+cemetery; and here Madame Malibran reposes. The first stopping-place is
+at about six miles from Brussels, at Vilvorde--a very ancient town,
+having a population of not quite three thousand. It is known in history
+as Filfurdum, and was a place of some consequence in 760. It was here
+that Tindal, who was the first translator of the New Testament into
+English, suffered martyrdom, in 1536, being burnt as a heretic. The
+Testament was a 12mo. edition. It was published in 1526, and probably
+was printed at Antwerp, where he then resided. Fifteen hundred copies
+were printed, and they were mostly bought up by Bishop Tonstall, and
+destroyed. The only copy known to exist is in the library of the Baptist
+College at Bristol. This copy belonged to Lord Oxford, and he valued the
+acquisition so highly that he settled twenty pounds a year upon the
+person who obtained it for him. Both Tindal's assistants in this great
+work--Fryth and Roye--suffered martyrdom before his death. I am sorry to
+find, by history, that Sir Thomas More employed one Phillips to go over
+to Antwerp and decoy Tindal into the hands of the emperor. The last
+words of the martyr were, "Lord! open the King of England's eyes." Sir
+Thomas More was a bitter persecutor, and he was "recompensed in his own
+ways." Not far from Vilvorde are the remains of the chateau of Rubens;
+and in the same vicinity is the house where Teniers is said to have
+lived. Mechlin, or Malines, is a fine-looking town, with twenty-five
+thousand inhabitants, and it is spelt by early writers ways without
+number. The railroad just touches on its skirts, and, of course, we
+could only look at it. Its cathedral church loomed up; and we longed to
+see its interior, where Vandyke's greatest picture--the Crucifixion--is
+found in the altar. The tower shows well at a distance. The other
+churches have some pictures of great merit, by Rubens. After passing
+Mechlin, we saw at our right a large town, lying, perhaps, two miles
+off, and then a still smaller one to the left, and a fine old castle,
+which looked in good preservation. The road led us through some fine
+country residences; and, just before entering Antwerp, we passed
+Berchem, a sweet little village. And I would not omit to say that the
+small place called Vieux Dieu, before we came to Berchem, is famous for
+being one of the last places where heathenism retained its hold in this
+port of Europe, and here was formerly an idol.
+
+Antwerp--or, as the French write it, Anvers--is a noble city on the
+River Scheldt, and is about twenty-seven miles from Brussels. The
+population is rather more than eighty thousand. The city is laid out in
+the shape of a bow, and the river forms the string. The river here is
+one hundred and ninety yards wide. The tide rises about fifteen feet.
+This place is of very ancient origin, and its legends are mixed up with
+the fabulous. Early in the sixteenth century it was an important town.
+It was fortified, and became one of the chief places of trade for the
+north of Europe. In 1520, the population was over two hundred thousand.
+Five hundred vessels daily came into and left the port, and two thousand
+others were always lying in the river and basins of the port. The death
+blow to this place was the treaty of Munster, which stipulated that
+every vessel entering the Scheldt should discharge her cargo in Holland,
+so that it had to be conveyed to Antwerp by land. The abolition of the
+Spanish power was severely felt at Antwerp. You know, I suppose, that
+this is regarded as one of the strongest fortifications in Europe, and
+has been the scene of repeated sieges. The last and most celebrated one
+was in 1832, when it was captured by the French, after a brave defence
+of two months.
+
+You cannot easily fancy what a charming old city this is; but I shall
+try to give you some account of it and our employments here. We put up
+at the Hotel St. Antoine, in the Place Verte, nearly opposite the
+cathedral, and it certainly is one of the best houses we have seen any
+where. The court yard is spacious, and has fine orange-trees around it.
+Our rooms are very elegant, and on the first floor. The coffee-room is
+admirably attended, and the _table d'hote_ is the best we have yet set
+down to. A large part of our anticipated pleasure arose from the fact
+that here are the great works of Rubens; and in the city of Rubens,
+Vandyke, Teniers, Jordaens, and Quentin Matsys, we felt that we could
+not be disappointed. In the Place Verte we find a colossal statue of
+Rubens by Geefs; and passing on a few steps, at the corner we come to
+the Cathedral of Notre Dame, which is so celebrated all over Europe as
+one of the grandest specimens of the Gothic order of architecture. There
+is much dispute as to the exact date of this church, but the evidence is
+in favor of 1422, and it is known to have been finished in 1518. This
+church is four hundred and sixty-six feet high, five hundred feet long,
+and two hundred and fifty wide. The nave is thought to be the most
+superb in Europe; and the side naves are double, forming two hundred and
+thirty arches, supported by one hundred and twenty-five magnificent
+pillars, and some of these are twenty-seven feet in circumference. Here
+Philip II., in 1555, held a chapter of the Golden Fleece, at which
+nineteen knights and nine sovereign princes were present. In 1559, Paul
+IV. made this church a cathedral; but, in 1812, Pius VII. issued a bull
+by which it was made dependent on the diocese of Malines. The effect of
+the evening sun upon the painted windows is the production of a glory
+which no pen can describe. Charles V. was once an actor here, for he
+stood godfather at the baptism of the great bell. The pulpit is carved
+work, and done by Verbruggen. It represents the four quarters of the
+world, and, though elaborate, is not as beautiful as the one in St.
+Gudule, at Brussels. The glory of the church is the "breathing scroll"
+of Rubens, so often seen upon the walls of its solemn aisles. Here is
+Rubens's great picture,--the Descent from the Cross. To this picture
+pilgrimages have been made by all the lovers of art from other lands,
+and all concede the grandeur of idea and the simplicity of the style.
+There is quite a story about this picture, in which Rubens and the
+crossbow-men of Antwerp both figure, but which I have no time to tell
+you at present. Nearly opposite is the Elevation of the Cross. The
+Savior's face and figure are not to be forgotten by any one who
+carefully gazes on this canvas. Both these pictures were carried off by
+the French, and also the Assumption of the Virgin, which is the high
+altar-piece, and were restored by the allied sovereigns in 1815. This
+last-named picture is said to have been executed in sixteen days, and
+his pay was one hundred florins a day. I like it exceedingly; and _the_
+figure of the picture is more spiritual than any other I have seen of
+the Virgin. Its date is 1642. I advise you to read Sir Joshua Reynolds's
+Lectures, where you will find a critical description of these immortal
+pictures.
+
+The steeple or tower is regarded as unrivalled, and is one of the
+highest in the world. It is four hundred and sixty-six feet high; and
+from the top we could see Brussels, Ghent, Malines, Louvain, and
+Flushing, and the course of the Scheldt lies beautifully marked out. I
+hardly dare tell you how many bells there are. Our valet said
+ninety-nine; one local book of facts says eighty-eight; but I suppose
+there are eighty or ninety; and every fifteen minutes they do chime the
+sweetest music: Charles V. wished the exquisite tower could be kept from
+harm in a glass case. The tracery of this tower is like delicate
+lacework, and no one can imagine half its beauty. After we came down, we
+examined, at the base, the epitaph of Quentin Matsys, once a
+black-smith, and then, under the force of the tender passion, he became
+a painter. The iron work over the pump and well, outside the church, is
+his handiwork.
+
+All round the cathedral are the finest old gabled houses I ever saw,
+Charley. I never tire in looking at them. They were the great houses of
+the time when the Duke of Alva made Antwerp the scene of his cruel
+despotism, and when the Inquisition carried death and misery into men's
+families. The oppressions of the Spaniards in this city sent many of the
+best manufacturers from the Low Countries to England; and Queen
+Elizabeth received them gladly.
+
+Yours, &c.,
+
+WELD.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 35.
+
+
+ANTWERP.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+I believe the lads have told you what they have seen in Belgium; and as
+they are just now busily employed, I shall endeavor to tell you our
+doings and enjoyments for the last day in this noble old city. We have
+been to see St. James's Church, where the great attraction is the tomb
+of Rubens. The altar is exquisitely fine, and was the work of Duquesnoy.
+Rubens brought it from Italy. Over the tomb is the famous Holy Family,
+in which Rubens has introduced himself as St. George, his father as
+Jerome, his wives as Martha and Magdalene, his grandfather as old Time,
+and his son as the Angel. This wonderful creation of art was carried off
+by Napoleon to the Louvre, but was restored to the church in 1815. From
+hence we repaired to St. Paul's Church. It was built in 1679. It has a
+noble appearance, and retains its cloisters. In this building we noticed
+the Flagellation, by Rubens; Jesus bearing the Cross, by Vandyke; the
+Crucifixion and Resurrection, by Jordaens; and the Adoration of the
+Shepherds, by Rubens. As we left the church, we visited the Calvary,
+which is at the entrance, or, rather, off from it, at the right. It is
+meant to represent the place of Christ's death. There are several
+statues of prophets and apostles, and a sort of grotto. At the end is
+Mount Calvary, and the summit is the scene of the Savior's crucifixion.
+Beneath is the tomb, the body, and the stone rolled away; and at the
+left are bars and flames, and poor creatures in purgatorial fires. A
+more wretched-looking burlesque was never placed in the vicinage of art
+and the productions of genius. Popery employs such trickery unblushingly
+in Papal countries, but withholds their exhibition from the common sense
+of England and America, waiting till our education shall fit us for the
+simple, unalloyed system of delusion.
+
+We find the number of priests in Belgium much greater than in France. We
+see them in the cars, at the stations, and in every street. At one
+station, on our way to Antwerp, we saw a most strangely-dressed man. He
+wore a cloak, and the cape formed a sort of hat. His head was shaved,
+and his feet were bare. We learnt that he was a monk of La Trappe. He
+was as noble a looking man as I have seen in Europe.
+
+We devoted the morning to the Museum, which is so famous for containing
+the richest productions of Rubens, Vandyke, Jordaens, and a host of
+other great Flemish artists. As we entered, we saw, with interest, the
+chair of Rubens, which he used in his studio. It bears his name, and the
+date of 1638. It is in a glass case. Rubens has sixteen pictures here,
+of high character, and Vandyke several. We were all delighted with No.
+215--a Dead Christ on a stone table, and the Virgin mourning at his
+side. No. 212 is a wonderful composition--Christ crucified between the
+Thieves. The look of the dying penitent at his Savior is not to be
+forgotten. The Magdalene of this picture is a creation of beauty indeed.
+I have purchased a fine engraving of this picture, and several others by
+Rubens, and I hope, by looking at them long, to retain the impression I
+had made on my mind as I gazed upon the originals. No. 221--the
+Trinity--is a profane and ungracious representation of a Dead Christ in
+the arms of a stern old man, who is intended for the Father. This
+picture is wonderfully fine, as regards the foreshortening of the dead
+body; and I never saw such an exhibition in this respect. No. 218---
+Christ showing his Wounds to Thomas--is fine; but the picture has
+suffered from damp.
+
+Quentin Matsys has several of his productions here, and we looked with
+interest at a fine Sir Thomas More, by Holbein; the Flight into Egypt,
+by Memling; Mater Dolorosa, by Albert Durer; and many interiors, by
+Flemish artists. I was greatly pleased with No. 382--the Death of
+Rubens, by Van Bree, who died in 1839. This is large, and I think a most
+effective picture. The two sons, the priest, the wife fainting, and the
+two scribes, are admirably disposed; and the open window, through which
+the cathedral spire is seen, seems to me exceedingly clever; but I fancy
+I admired it more than artists have done. On leaving this noble
+collection, we stopped at St. Andrew's Church to see a portrait of Mary,
+Queen of Scots, over a monument to the two Ladies Curl, one of whom
+waited on her at her execution at Fotheringay Castle. After dinner we
+sallied out to see the Exchange, or Bourse, and from which the first
+London one was copied. Of course, this gave it an interest to us, as we
+could fancy we saw the royal building in which Queen Bess made such a
+display, and of which Gresham had so much reason to be proud. It is a
+piazza of iron arches and granite pillars, surrounding a square two
+hundred feet long by one hundred and sixty wide. It was built in 1531.
+
+On returning home, we accidentally met with Mr. Vesey, the American
+consul. He invited us to his drawing-room, and we had a very pleasant
+half hour. But when he found we were to leave next day, he insisted on
+taking us to the outskirts and showing us the citadel and
+fortifications. In a few minutes he had us in a carriage, and became our
+kind and efficient guide till the loss of daylight rendered it useless
+to look around. I think we shall never forget the very great attention
+and friendship which we all met with from this gentleman; and I was
+gratified to hear him say that here, in Europe, nothing seemed to
+interest him in relation to mere party strife at home; while the honor
+and union of the country seemed to him all and every thing. Mr. Vesey
+has a good library and some fine paintings. He is a man of taste, and
+marked by energy of character; and is just such a representative of his
+country as she needs at such points as Antwerp and other large cities.
+
+Yours truly,
+
+J.O.C.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 36.
+
+
+HAGUE.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+I assure you we felt sorry to leave Antwerp; it is such a thoroughly
+fine old place, has so much of old Spanish history still bound up with
+its present aspect, and is so decidedly foreign in its appearance,
+language, &c. I have only time left to say a word about the docks of
+Antwerp, which were a favorite project of Napoleon Bonaparte. They were
+constructed at an enormous outlay; and the emperor expected to make this
+place the great rival of London. At the peace of 1814, the dock yards
+were demolished; but the great basins still exist, and are used for
+purposes of commerce. They are useful in winter, to preserve vessels
+from the ice which floats in the Scheldt.
+
+It was a lovely morning when, having parted with our English friends,
+who proceeded to Bruges, we entered on board an iron steamer for a
+passage of about eight hours to Rotterdam. The boat was neat and clean,
+though small, and the cabin was adorned with baskets and pots of flowers
+of various kinds. The view of the city and its fortifications was fine,
+as the boat receded from the shore. On our way we passed Dort, one of
+the finest towns of Holland, and from appearances, I think, one of much
+trade. Its population is twenty thousand. Here, in 1618, was held the
+famous Synod of Dort, the great labor of which was to settle the claims
+of the rival systems of Calvin and Arminius. At this synod, Bishop Hall
+was a delegate from the English church; and he, good man, never dreamed
+of denying the validity of the ordination of his brethren in that
+council. We felt interested, as we sailed along this town, in
+remembering that here, in 1421, seventy-two villages and more than one
+hundred thousand persons were drowned by the incursion of water from the
+dike. The river stretches far away, and looks much like a lake.
+
+If any one looks at the face of the country, he will at once understand
+why these regions have been termed the Low Countries. We passed, as you
+may see on the map, Gravendeel, Willeinstadt, and the far-famed
+fortress of Bergen op Zoom, which is one of the strongest places in
+Holland. You know that Antwerp stood a long siege in 1831, when it
+suffered severely; and, as we passed Fort St. Laurent, we were pointed
+out the spot where a most gallant occurrence happened at that time. A
+gun boat, belonging to Holland, got on shore, and the Belgians hastened
+to capture her, when her captain, a young man named Van Speyk, rushed
+into the magazine, put his cigar upon an open keg of powder, and, in the
+explosion, perished, with twenty-eight of his crew out of thirty-one. He
+was an orphan, who had been educated at Amsterdam. He has a fine
+monument next to Admiral De Ruyter's, and a fine ship of the Dutch navy
+bears his name. On board our boat we found two young gentlemen, of about
+fifteen or sixteen, belonging to Rotterdam, who were going home for
+vacation.. They are pupils at a boarding school in Brussels. They spoke
+English very well, and gave us a great deal of pleasing information. The
+dinner on the boat was very excellent. On reaching Rotterdam, we merely
+rode through it to take the cars for the Hague. It is a fine-looking
+town, has seventy-five thousand inhabitants, and some noble East
+Indiamen were lying at the wharves. Many of the houses were like those
+at Antwerp, and told a Spanish origin. I here noticed looking-glasses
+at the windows, so that any one in the parlor can see the reflection up
+and down the streets. I was glad to be able to see the bronze statue of
+Erasmus, who was born here in 1467. We were delayed by the absence of
+the authorities to sign our passports, but were in time to reach the
+ears, and then started for the Hague, which is thirteen miles from
+Rotterdam; and we were forty minutes on the way. The road is excellent.
+We passed through Delft, and here we could not fail to admire the
+gardens and country-houses. It was dark as we entered the town; and we
+took up our quarters at the Doelen, which is a name indicating that
+archers have resorted thither. Whoever goes to this house will be sure
+to do well. We obtained capital rooms. Early next morning we called on
+Mr. George Folsom, our _charge d'affaires_. This gentleman is an old
+friend of mine; and he gave us a most cordial welcome, taking entire
+possession of our party for the day. Mr. Folsom resides in very handsome
+style upon the Voorhout, the best street of the city, and which, like
+every other part of the place, is adorned with noble trees. It seems
+strange to call this place a city, it is so thoroughly rural in its
+appearance. It hardly shows like a town of sixty-five thousand people on
+account of being concealed in shrubbery, cut up by canals, and
+overshadowed with forest-trees.
+
+Very early in the day we were kindly provided with carriages, and taken
+to Scheveningen, a village about three miles off. Our road lay through a
+fine avenue of trees. This is a great fishing-place, and a great
+watering-place. It has a large hotel, which we went to for lunch. It is
+the great rendezvous of the fashionable part of society in Germany
+during the heat of summer. We could not help drawing a contrast between
+Scheveningen and Newport, and not much to the advantage of the Dutch
+beach. This spot has some celebrity, as the port whence Charles II.
+embarked for England at his restoration. On our way back we saw the
+residence of the queen dowager, sister to the Emperor of Russia, and of
+whom Mr. Folsom speaks highly, as a very excellent and sensible lady.
+Mrs. Folsom and the ladies of our party had visited the queen the day
+before. The house looked quite snug, and very unpretending. On
+returning, we at once repaired to the Museum, which is supposed to be,
+in many respects, the finest in Europe. Here, too, is the famous picture
+gallery, in which are the best productions of the Flemish and Dutch
+schools. You are aware that Holland has had extensive trade with China
+and Japan, through her colonies; hence the richness of this museum,
+which, so far as Japan is concerned, is unrivalled. I have a catalogue
+of this wonderful collection, and to that I must refer you; for, as to
+description of what I saw, it would be impossible to tell you a
+hundredth part. The Oriental curiosities are very rich and fine. A plan
+of Jeddo, the capital of Japan, is very curious--made by natives. The
+historical treasures are rich and numerous. Here we saw the armor of De
+Ruyter, and that of Van Tromp, well scored with bullets; the sword of
+Van Speyk; a part of Czar Peter's bed; the dress of William of Orange
+when he was murdered at Delft; the pistol and bullets by which he fell,
+&c., &c. We all expected much pleasure from the gallery of paintings,
+and I believe we experienced no disappointment; and how could we, with
+such treasures of art and genius? Here we noticed with most interest
+Rembrandt's Surgeon and Pupils dissecting a dead Body. This is No. 127.
+The body is admirable, and the legs are thrown into shadow. The
+portraits are lifelike. The portraits of Rembrandt's wives are fine
+specimens of coloring. No. 123 is the world-renowned Bull, by Paul
+Potter. The glory of this work is its minute adherence to nature. The
+leaves and plants, and every appearance of vegetation, impresses the
+spectator with the idea of reality. This was carried off to the Louvre,
+although the Dutch offered twenty thousand pounds sterling to redeem it.
+I liked the pictures of De Ruyter and Van Tromp; but the treat of all to
+me was the show of small Dutch pictures, by Gerard Dow, thirty-five in
+number; a Battle Field and Hay Cart, by Wouvermans, and many others from
+his studio; Flight into Egypt, by Vanderwerp; Fruits and Flowers, by
+Breughels; Interiors of Cottages, by A.V. Ostades; a Kitchen, by
+Teniers; and a very large Hunting-piece by Snyders, whom I greatly
+admire. As to portraits, they are in any number, and some are very fine.
+One of Laurence Coster, by Durer, is curious.
+
+We went to see the late King's Palace, and here we found only the relics
+of the splendid gallery which was once to be seen. An auction had
+recently disposed of more than half the paintings. The late monarch was
+a man of taste, but had sadly involved himself in its gratification.
+Many of the paintings here are exceedingly fine, and will be disposed of
+in a public sale next October. After leaving this palace, we went with
+Mr. Folsom to see the Brimenhoff. This is the place where the Dutch
+parliament meets. We went into the second chamber and heard the debates,
+which were not very edifying. The appearance of the members was very
+much like that of a New England assembly of legislators.
+
+The fine Gothic Hall here is said to be the oldest building in the city.
+It was on a scaffolding in front of it that Barneveldt, the grand
+pensionary of Holland, was beheaded, in 1618, at the age of seventy-two.
+We also saw the gateway of the tower in which Cornelius De Witt was
+confined, in 1672, on the ridiculous charge of conspiracy against the
+Prince of Orange. The populace feared his acquittal, and they by a
+manoeuvre induced his brother John De Witt, the grand pensionary, to
+visit him in prison. They then broke in, dragged them forth, and tore
+them to pieces under the gateway. We went to look at De Witt's
+residence, which is plain and unpretending.
+
+I do wish you could have been with us in our ride through the Bosch, a
+fine park of forest-trees near to the town. The forest never looked more
+pleasant to me than here. May is a sweet month, and especially when,
+with all her verdant beauty, she is just about to rush into the arms of
+June. We all talked of you in the charming drive, and Mr. Folsom made
+kind inquiries after you. On reaching home, we went with our kind guide
+to see the house which was occupied by John Adams when he was at this
+court negotiating a treaty with Holland in aid of our independence.
+
+We are to spend to-morrow and next day at Harlem, on our way to
+Amsterdam; and the boys will tell you what we see there.
+
+Affectionately yours,
+
+J.O.C.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 37.
+
+
+AMSTERDAM.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+In order that we might enjoy an opportunity to hear the great organ at
+Harlem to advantage, Mr. Folsom advised us to spend a Sabbath day there,
+which we did, in company with his family. We took the rail to Leyden,
+ten miles. Here we saw the Dunes, or Sand Hills, which guard the Dutch
+coast, and which are from one to four miles in width, and are from
+thirty to fifty feet high. These immense piles would soon be scattered
+by the strong winds if they were not regularly sown with reed grass, the
+roots of which often spread from twenty to thirty feet, binding the
+banks, and the decayed vegetation furnishing good soil for potatoes. The
+existence of Holland and its population is only insured by perpetual
+strife maintained against the sea and winds of heaven. We could not look
+at Leyden and forget that the Pilgrim Fathers of New England were once
+exiles at this place. They called it a "goodly and pleasant city," and
+here they spent twelve years; and we looked at the scenery with interest
+as we thought of their wanderings, and how much preparation was expended
+in establishing the glorious foundations of our own New England. The
+city has about forty thousand inhabitants. Its University is still
+famous, and the hall of the institution is rich in portraits of the
+great and good. The Museum of Natural History is very large, and is
+quite curious in Oriental and Egyptian relics. In Japanese curiosities,
+the Dutch museums are far more affluent than any others of Europe, as
+they maintain almost exclusive traffic with Japan.
+
+The history of Leyden is very interesting. In 1573-4, this town suffered
+an awful siege from the Spaniards for four months, and lost more than
+five thousand inhabitants by war and famine. At last the elements
+conspired in their favor, and an incursion of the sea destroyed the
+Spaniards and brought succor to the Dutch. Rembrandt the painter was
+born at Leyden, in a wind mill. By the way, there are literally
+thousands of wind mills in this country, and some of them are very
+pretty objects. The sails of these mills are immensely large, and I
+think I saw some that were quite one hundred feet long. Many of the best
+men of England have studied at Leyden; and if you read the lives of
+Evelyn and Goldsmith, you will find they were much attached to this
+place. Boerhaave, the great physician, was a professor here, and go were
+Arminius and his rival Gomarus. Gerard Dow or Douw, Jan Steen, and
+Vandervelde, the artists, were born here. Near Leyden the Rhine enters
+the sea, by the aid of a canal and sluice gates; and here are great salt
+works, carried on by evaporation. From Leyden we took the rail to
+Harlem, eighteen miles; and we found the road very good, and the
+first-class cars perfectly luxurious. We noticed on our right hand the
+Warmond Catholic Seminary for Popish priests, and saw the young men in
+large numbers, walking about. The road runs through a sandy tract of
+country, and much of it is made land. Approaching Harlem, we found the
+cottages and country-houses very numerous and exceedingly pretty; and we
+were pointed to the castle of the unfortunate Jacqueline, whose history,
+you know, has been so charmingly written by our friend Mr. T.C. Grattan.
+We made our home at the Golden Lion, and found the place comfortable and
+very thoroughly Dutch. The landlady is a brisk, bustling body, and
+speaks English tolerably well. Harlem has about twenty-fire thousand
+inhabitants. On Sunday morning we went to the Church of St. Bavon. We
+found a large congregation, and they sung most heartily. The dominie had
+a cocked hat hanging up behind him in the pulpit; and he was, beyond
+doubt, a very eloquent man. The great organ, built in 1738, was long
+deemed _the_ organ of Europe, but is now supposed to be excelled at
+Friburg. We heard it during service several times, and in a voluntary.
+It unquestionably is an instrument of great sweetness as well as power.
+It has five thousand pipes. The church is lofty, and looks plain enough
+after what we have seen in Antwerp. Of course, we went to see the
+statue of Coster, who is said to have been the inventor of printing in
+1420-28, twelve years before Guttemberg made his experiments. The Dutch
+are strong advocates for their inventor; but I think evidence in favor
+of metal type lies with the man of Mayence.
+
+You may be sure that, when we were so fortunate as to be here early in
+June, we did not fail to go into the nurseries and gardens, and see the
+hyacinths, tulips, narcissuses, anemones, ranunculuses, &c. We went to
+the extensive grounds of Mr. Krelage, the first florist of Holland, No.
+146 Kleine Houtweg; and here we were greatly delighted. The tulips were
+exceedingly fine, and under cover they receive as much attention as if
+they were babies. The hyacinths surpassed in beauty and variety any
+thing we are accustomed to. I noticed a double blue, called Gloria
+Mundi; Van Speyk, L'Importante, same color; Goethe, double yellow;
+L'Eclair, crimson; and Emicus, white, which were particularly beautiful.
+But we were all, perhaps, most pleased with the extensive beds of
+anemones and ranunculuses, which rarely do well in our hot climate, and
+here flourish in a humid atmosphere. Certainly they are the prettiest
+flowers I ever saw; but they lack perfume. Here we saw them by
+thousands. The exquisite order and condition of these large gardens
+pleased us much. The young gentleman who kindly devoted three hours to
+us spoke English well, and was very courteous and attentive. I have
+brought away a catalogue of the flowers, with the prices. The soil of
+Harlem is every where a deep sand, and every thing appears to flourish.
+
+The vicinage of this place is very pleasant; and we rode for two hours
+through a noble wood, fringed with sweet villas, and made a visit to a
+palace built by the great banker, Hope, of Amsterdam, and which was the
+residence of King Louis Bonaparte. It is now a picture gallery, and
+contains some good historical pictures, and many fine small ones, of the
+best artists of Holland. I think the boys forgot to tell you that, at
+the Hague, we found the annual exhibition of paintings by the living
+artists of Holland, just opened, and the treat was very great. It is
+quite clear that the art is not lost here, and that rare excellence is
+still to be found among the Dutch painters. We were all delighted with a
+picture of Charles IX. of France, and his surgeon, Ambrose Pare. The
+time is just before the Bartholomew massacre; and Catharine is in the
+room, plotting with her wretched son. Some of the portraits were
+remarkable productions, and evince a power rarely seen in this
+department. Some of the interiors of houses and churches were quite in
+the style of Ostade, Neefs, and Gerard Dow. A picture of the Virgin,
+and Jesus and John, by Schwartze, of Amsterdam, received general praise.
+Of this artist I shall have more to say.
+
+The great Lake of Harlem, which is thirty miles in circumference, is to
+be drained; and for several years operations have been in progress to
+this end. The immense works employed for this purpose are worthy of
+notice.
+
+After leaving Harlem, and taking leave of our kind friend the minister
+at the Hague, with his amiable family, we again entered the cars, and,
+after riding twelve miles, reached Amsterdam. The chief feature on the
+way was the everlasting wind mill, employed here to grind wheat, &c. We
+went to the Hotel Doelen, and found it all that Mr. Folsom had said.
+This is a great city, of two hundred and twenty-five thousand
+inhabitants. The canals are immense affairs, and the ships and vessels
+of all sorts give it a very active appearance. All round the city is a
+wide fosse; and there are four great canals inside, with many minor
+cuts. Some of these canals are more than one hundred and twenty-five
+feet wide, and are edged with very fine houses; and the intercourse of
+the city is kept up by some two hundred and fifty bridges. The city is
+about eight miles round. Every one seems actively employed.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+J.O.C.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 38.
+
+
+AMSTERDAM.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+The next morning after reaching this fine, but queer city, we called on
+the American consul, and he gave us a very friendly reception. He is
+quite a young man, but seems to be full of energy. At his house we met a
+Mr. J. G. Schwartze, a native of Philadelphia, but who came to Holland
+very young, and has made this city his residence. He is highly
+distinguished as an artist; and we saw a fine production of his at the
+exhibition at the Hague. Mr. Schwartze is a charming companion--full of
+enthusiasm; and when he found that I was fond of pictures, he at once
+volunteered to be our guide to the galleries here; and in all our
+movements here our kind friend has been with us. The most imposing
+building here is the Stadhuis, or Palace. It was finished in 1655, and
+used to be the seat of the town councils. Louis Bonaparte used it as his
+residence; and the king occupies it when he comes here. The marble hall
+is esteemed one of the noblest rooms in Europe, and is one hundred and
+twenty feet long, fifty-seven wide, and nearly one hundred feet high.
+From the top of this building you get a capital view of the town, cut up
+into artificial islands by the intersection of canals, &c. In this
+building is much fine statuary, and a few historical paintings.
+
+The churches are large, but look barn-like. The organ of the old church
+is very rich in its decorations; and here, as at Harlem, men sit in
+church with their hats on, if they choose. The clergy wear a short,
+black cloak, and deep white ruffs on the neck. The Jews are quite
+numerous, and have several synagogues. They live mostly in one part of
+the city. I do not think we shall any of us forget our visit to the
+picture gallery at Amsterdam. Our attention was directed by Mr. S. to
+the best paintings, and the particular merits of the artists were kindly
+explained to us. The sight of a great picture is an event; and I think
+that the day on which I first saw Rembrandt's Night Watch will long be
+regarded by me with pleasurable feelings. It is a company of archers,
+who are going out with their captain. The lights and shades are
+wonderfully introduced. The City Guards of Amsterdam, by Vanderhelst, is
+a large picture, with twenty-five portraits, and is esteemed as the
+finest portrait picture in the world. But my favorite here is a small
+picture called the Night School, by Gerard Dow. I would cheerfully go a
+hundred miles on foot to see such a picture. The management of the
+lights upon the interior and figures is beyond any thing I have
+imagined. His Hermit and Crucifix is another gem. The picture of
+Officers plundered by Peasants, by Wouvermans, and several landscapes of
+his, are still in my mind's eye; and several pictures by the two
+Ostades, Teniers, and Both are quite sufficient to make me understand
+how it is that some men have found such fascination in collecting a
+gallery. The best specimens of Jan Steen are in this city, and his Fete
+of St. Nicholas would take wonderfully well with our good old
+Knickerbockers at home. A Landscape, with cattle and figures, by Albert
+Cuyp, is strikingly beautiful; and how I wish you could see a Fat Boy,
+the son of a burgomaster, by Bartholomew Helst, dated 1648. Vandyke,
+whose portraits have never been equalled, has some of his best in this
+museum; and his Burgomaster of Antwerp, Vander Brocht, is as bold a
+picture as you could wish to gaze at.
+
+Hondekoeter's flowers and fruits, and Snyder's game pieces, are among
+the best of their kind in the world. Some of the finest things I have
+seen in Holland, in the way of painting, are the little gems descriptive
+of life as it lay about the artist--interiors of domestic abodes, and
+out-door scenes at the roadside. These, the patient, plodding Dutchmen
+have worked up most elaborately. One or two of Nicholas Maes's pictures
+are wonderful. I saw one in a private collection, and it was a glorious
+thing, though only a Kitchen, with two or three figures. O, how poor are
+the things we often hear spoken of as fine pictures! The eye, it seems
+to me, obtains its education rapidly in such a gallery as this. I am
+sure I shall look at works of art in future with new feelings.
+
+There was a most beautiful Jew boy, about eleven years old, that used to
+stand at our hotel door to sell matches, who regularly beset us with his
+wares. His face was as striking as any fancy picture you can meet with,
+and his beauty and impudence made him a pretty successful merchant.
+
+Mr. Schwartze took us to a noble mansion belonging to a merchant prince,
+to see his great picture of Columbus before the Council explaining his
+theory. This is a first-class execution. The coloring is very fine, and
+the drawing good; and we all felt pride in seeing such a picture from
+the easel of our countryman. I wish we had some good painting of his in
+America. His portraits are excellent, and one of his wife has earned him
+his high reputation in Holland. Through the kindness of this gentleman
+we were introduced to the Artists' Club, and spent our evenings there in
+very pleasant society. The artists belonging to it are probably about
+fifty, and the other gentlemen who mainly support it are about two
+hundred. I was much surprised to find nearly every gentleman we were
+introduced to speaking excellent English. We met here a very gentlemanly
+and accomplished lawyer, Mr. Van Lennep, whose father is a man of great
+wealth. His attentions were very friendly. While here, James was quite
+poorly with some slight attack of fever; and both our friends and the
+consul were unremitting in their services.
+
+The water is very poor; rain water is valuable indeed. The best drinking
+water is brought from Utrecht in stone demijohns. The bad water is often
+used, however, flavored with Schiedam. We saw several of the
+floating-houses, in which whole families reside, and carry articles from
+place to place. The herring fishery, in its season, is a great matter in
+the commerce of Amsterdam. Every thing here impresses the stranger with
+the idea of activity, wealth, and great comfort; and I fancy that a
+person would very soon become attached to the city as a place of
+residence. To-morrow, if James is better, we resume our journey, and
+start for Cologne.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+WELD.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 39.
+
+
+COLOGNE.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+We are strangely favored with weather; every day is fine; and we begin
+to think that the climate has been abused, for we have had an
+uninterrupted spell of bright, sunny weather. We started, after
+breakfast, for our journey to Cologne, and took the oars for Utrecht,
+which is twenty-three miles from Amsterdam. Our road was not one of
+much interest, beyond the pretty gardens of the suburban residences.
+Breukelen and Maarsen we thought pleasant little places. Utrecht is a
+large town, and has, I think, nearly sixty thousand inhabitants; and of
+these, one half are Catholics. It is rather on an ascent, and so is
+unlike any other place we have seen in Holland. The place is famous for
+the treaty of 1713. Here is a university, and some very fine private
+residences; and the fortifications have been laid out in fine walks. The
+Mall, or public walk, is a noble avenue of trees,--limes, I think,--and
+they are in six or eight rows. In this place is a cathedral, which we
+only saw. From its tower is the best view of the country; and it is said
+you can see more than twenty towns from it.
+
+From Utrecht we continued, by railroad, to Arnheim, a distance of
+thirty-three miles; and we saw more forest-trees than we had before
+noticed. In the cars were several Catholic priests, who smoked
+incessantly. Arnheim is on the banks of the Rhine, and is a pretty
+little place, of about sixteen thousand inhabitants. We were, of course,
+reminded by Dr. C. that here Sir Philip Sidney died, in 1586, of his
+wound received in the battle of Zutphen. The entire vicinity seemed to
+us a delightful spot, and we have seen no place where the houses appear
+so English and American. The scenery is very attractive; and we would
+have liked to stay over a day, but the steamer for Ruhrort was ready to
+start, and we had only time to get our tickets and go on board. We found
+a neat, comfortable boat, and met pleasant society. The Rhine here is
+bounded by flat shores, and has no points of interest, and affords no
+promise of what it is so soon to be. We entered Prussia at Lobith, and
+had a very thorough examination of our trunks by officers who came on
+board. At Wesel--a town, I think, of some twelve thousand inhabitants,
+and having a very strong fortress--we stopped half an hour, and a crowd
+came round the boat. Rapin, who wrote the History of England, lived here
+while engaged in the task. How singular it is that all the histories of
+England, of any note, have been written by men not born in England! They
+have been French, Scotch, Irish, &c. We reached Ruhrort in the
+afternoon, and left the boat. This is the great central depot where the
+coal of the Ruhr is deposited. Here we crossed in a ferry boat, rode a
+mile or two in an omnibus, and then took the cars for Cologne, after
+waiting some hour or two, in consequence of a delay--the first we have
+met with on any railroad on the continent. It was dark when we passed
+through Dusseldorf; and we felt sorry not to stay here and see the
+water-color drawings that remain in this collection, once so famous; but
+we were told at Paris that the best of the drawings and pictures have
+gone to Munich. In the cars we met a gentleman and his lady who were
+evidently Americans. We entered into conversation, and found they were
+from Nashville, Tennessee. They bad been travelling very extensively in
+Europe, and had been through Egypt, crossed the desert, and visited
+Syria and the Holy City. I quite respected a lady, Charley, who had
+travelled hundreds of miles upon a camel. The journey had been very
+beneficial to her health. We reached Cologne at about ten o'clock, after
+crossing over a bridge of boats fourteen hundred feet long, and went to
+the Hotel Holland, on the banks of the river, and found it a very good
+house, with a grand view of the Rhine; and the chambers are as good as
+can be desired. Few places are more fruitful in the reminiscences which
+they furnish than this old city. Cologne has a Roman origin, and was
+settled by a colony sent by Nero and his mother, who was born here, in
+her father's camp, during the war. It still retains the walls of its
+early fortifications, built as long ago as the twelfth and thirteenth
+centuries. In Cologne Caxton lived, in 1470, and learnt the new art of
+printing, which he carried to England and introduced there. Its present
+population is about ninety thousand, having increased latterly, and, no
+doubt, will rapidly increase, in consequence of its connection with
+Paris, Strasburg, Berlin, Antwerp, and other cities, by railroads.
+
+We turned our steps very early to the Cathedral, and here we expected
+nothing less than a treat; but much as we had heard of it, and often as
+the doctor had described it, we found it far beyond all our
+anticipations. The church was commenced in 1248, and is still far from
+completed. It is always thought to be one of the grandest Gothic piles
+in the world. The name of the architect is not known. Gerhard is the
+earliest builder whose name is associated with this church, in 1252. The
+plan was to build the two towers five hundred feet high; but the
+loftiest has only attained the height of about one hundred and
+eighty-five feet. Much of the external work is in decay; but great pains
+and cost have been given to repair the stone work, and the work is going
+on with vigor and success. It is supposed that it will require three
+millions of dollars to carry out the design. The form of the church is a
+cross, and "the arches are supported by a quadruple row of sixty-four
+columns; and, including those of the portico, there are more than one
+hundred. The four columns in the middle are thirty feet in
+circumference, and each of the one hundred columns is surmounted by a
+chapiter different from the others." On one tower still exists the old
+crane which raised the stones that came from Drachenfels. The only part
+of the cathedral yet finished is the choir. This is one hundred and
+sixty-one feet high; and, whether you look at it outside, or gaze on
+its interior, you are lost in admiration. The stained windows are really
+beyond all others I have seen. All round the choir stand colossal
+statues of the Apostles, the Virgin, and the Savior. In a chapel not far
+from the altar is the renowned shrine of the Three Kings, or Magi, who
+came from the East with gifts to the infant Savior. These bones once
+rested at Milan; but Frederic Barbarossa, in 1162, gave them to an
+archbishop of Cologne. So here they are in a case, silver gilt, and
+arcades on pillars all round; and, inside the pillars, little gold
+prophets and apostles. The jewelry at this shrine has been formerly
+valued at six millions of francs; but in some of its transportations in
+troublous times, it has met with spoliations; but it is still radiant
+with gold and pearls, and gems of all descriptions. The restoration of
+the shrine is going on, and costly offerings are frequently made in aid
+of the undertaking. The skulls of these worthies are crowned with gold,
+and look ghastly enough, in spite of diamonds and rubies. Their names
+are Caspar, Melchior, and Balthasar. We paid a heavy fee to see the rare
+show; but it is well enough to understand the mummery that there is in
+the world. We went the entire round of the little chapels, and saw some
+fine monuments to the great ones of church and state. I was much pleased
+with a bronze statue of Archbishop Conrad, of Hocksteden, who died in
+1261, and some exceedingly old paintings. We also saw the library and
+sacristy, and the sacred vestments, some of which were splendid enough.
+Here we saw a bone of St. Matthew some saint's shrine in silver, and the
+state cross of the archbishop, with several of the very finest ivory
+carvings that we have fallen in with. A look at the vast workshop where
+the stone carvings for restoration are made was quite interesting.
+
+While wandering through the aisles of the Cathedral, we met with a very
+pleasant family from New York; and, after introduction, we agreed to
+make the passage of the Rhine together; and, as there are young people
+in the party, this will be very agreeable to us. We have rather a
+limited time to pass here, and so have concluded to neglect the Virgin's
+bones, at St. Ursula's Church, of which we have read all the legends.
+Men and women trained up to worship these odds and ends are the people
+who are flocking by thousands to our country; and there is a great deal
+for such folks to learn before they will value and understand our
+privileges. We next turned our steps to St. Peter's Church, where Rubens
+was baptized; and we saw the brass font, which is still there, and also
+his father's tomb. It was to this church that the great painter
+presented his famous Crucifixion of Peter, which he thought the best he
+ever painted; but artists differ with him in this estimate. The picture
+now exposed to view is only a copy, which was made in Paris when the
+original was in the Louvre; but the man in charge turns the picture,
+which is on a pivot, and you have the original before you. Peter's head
+is very fine, and much more striking than the rest of the body. The
+little garden in the cloisters of this church is very sweet, and there
+are some good bits of sculpture. The beautiful Church of the Apostles we
+could not see, excepting outside, and its appearance is quite singular.
+The styles of architecture I thought strangely mixed up. Of course, we
+got some cologne water at the genuine fountain head in Julich's Place;
+and in the evening we made an examination of a curiosity shop, where we
+found a fine old engraving of Rubens's head, and two excellent
+engravings of Ostades's interiors. They are gems in their way, and,
+though very old, are perfect. We saw the house where the unfortunate
+Queen of France died, in 1644, respecting whose last days so interesting
+a fiction has been written; and we were told that it was also the very
+house in which Rubens was born. At all events, it is a very plain
+establishment for such celebrity as it possesses. We have also seen a
+military review here; but the discipline was poor, and only the music
+good.
+
+A gentleman here from America, engaged in the wine trade, has amused us
+all by his facts in relation to champagne, which is here manufactured
+in large quantities, and is fabricated from a mixture of some ten or
+twelve different wines. A very superior brand is the result, which the
+good people of America will pay well for, with an appropriate brand duly
+furnished to order.
+
+On the roof of our hotel is a sort of room, or garden, called the
+Belvedere. In it are a variety of fine plants, in healthy condition. The
+roses were very fragrant. The view across the river from this place is
+charming; and the village of Deutz looks prettily, with its large hotel
+and plenty of smaller houses of resort. To-morrow we go up the Rhine;
+and we are all hoping for a fine day, and then we expect a pleasant one.
+
+Yours truly,
+
+JAMES.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 40.
+
+
+FRANKFORT.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+It was on the Rhine that we all wanted you with us, and other friends,
+too, who were far away. This is no common, every-day stream, but one
+whose name and renown have been associated with ten thousand pages of
+history, song, and legend. We have read of the Rhine, listened to its
+songs, drank its wines, dreamed of its craggy, castled banks,--and at
+last we found ourselves upon its waters, rushing down from their homes
+in Alpine steeps and regions of eternal snow. The deposits of this river
+have made Holland what she is; and the rich plains of the Low Countries
+have been formed by the alluvial deposits of this noble river. The
+enthusiasm of the Germans towards this stream is well known. They call
+it Father Rhine, and King Rhine; and well may they be proud of its
+beauty and its historic fame. We took our passage in a fine steamer, on
+a lovely morning, and it took us about eight hours to reach Coblentz.
+Leaving Cologne, we passed an old tower on the edge of the river, and,
+for some miles, the prospect was every day enough; and it was not till
+we approached Bonn that we were much impressed with the banks. We passed
+several villages, which appeared to have pleasant localities. I name
+only Surdt, Urfel, Lulsdorf, and Alfter. Bonn is an old city, of Roman
+date, and has figured largely in the wars of the Rhine. Its population
+is about sixteen thousand. Bonn has a minster, which shows itself finely
+to the voyager on the river, and is a Gothic structure of the twelfth
+century. The University here is famous for its library, and the great
+names formerly associated with this institution--Schlegel and Niebuhr.
+Both filled chairs in the college. Prince Albert was educated at this
+place. Beethoven was born here. If we could have spent a day at the
+Seven Mountains, I should have been glad; but we were only able to look
+at them. They vary in height from one thousand and fifty to fourteen
+hundred and fifty-three feet. The most picturesque of the group is
+Drachenfels; and the beautiful lines of Byron you will recollect, where
+he speaks of "the castled crag of Drachenfels." From this place the
+stone was taken for the Cathedral at Cologne. The summits of these seven
+mountains are crested with ruined castles. Their sides are well wooded,
+and around them are spread fruitful vineyards. You know how famous they
+are in the legendary lore of the Rhine. The view from Drachenfels is
+said to be one of the finest on the river. After leaving Bonn and the
+ruins of Godesberg, we soon came to Rolandseck, a lofty eminence, where
+are the remains of a baronial fortress and a celebrated ruin of an arch.
+I should judge that the access to this place was by a charming road. The
+ruins of Rolandseck are immortalized by the ballad of Schiller.
+Tradition relates that the castle was destroyed by the Emperor Henry V.,
+in the twelfth century. At the foot of the mountain is the sweet little
+Island of Nonnenwoerth, of about one hundred acres, and the ruins of a
+convent. The rock here is basaltic, and the production of volcanic
+action. Never did Nature present a fairer picture than we gazed upon at
+this spot. The villages around are pictures of happiness and content,
+and the scenery such as only the Rhine can exhibit. Passing by the
+charming, rural-looking Oberwinter, we soon came upon a woody height,
+where stands the Gothic Church of St. Apollinarisberg. Here is, or was,
+the saint's head; and it was formerly a shrine of great resort. Close by
+is the little tower Of Remagen, and opposite are basaltic rocky heights
+of six or eight hundred feet, on the sides of which are vineyards--the
+vines growing in baskets filled with earth and placed in the crevices of
+the rocks. No square foot of soil seems to be wasted; and, to improve
+the ground, you will find the plots for vines laid out like potato
+patches,--some running this way, and others that,--making the sides of
+the hills and banks look very much like basket work.
+
+We now came, on our left hand, to the ruins of Okenfels and the pretty
+town of Linz. The ruins are very dark, and look as if they were past
+redemption; whereas, some of these castles retain fine outlines. The red
+roofs of the town are in pleasing contrast with the green woods. This
+town seemed quite a business place; and I noticed several sloops and
+queer-looking vessels at the piers. On the opposite side the Aar falls
+into the Rhine. Just back is a town called Sinzig, and story tells that
+here Constantine and Maxentius fought the battle which resulted in the
+downfall of paganism. Here it was that, the evening previous,
+Constantine saw in the heavens the figure of a cross, with the
+inscription, [Greek: "_En touto nika_."] But other
+legends give the battle place on the banks of the Tiber.
+
+We were all pleased with a beautiful, modern, castellated building,
+erected out of the ruins of an ancient castle, of which a single
+venerable tower remains at a small distance. The name is the Castle of
+Reineck. It was built for Professor Bethman Holweg, of Bonn, and he
+reads his lines in pleasant places. It must have cost much money to rear
+such an edifice. Nearly opposite are the ruins of Hammerstein Castle,
+where, in 1105, Henry IV. found an asylum. We next came to Andernach.
+This is an ancient city, and here you see towers and ruins standing
+amidst a wide amphitheatre of basaltic mountains. The place is spoken of
+by various old historians, and under several names. The great trade of
+the place is in millstones, which find their way even to America. Here
+is a celebrated Roman arched gate; but the lancet form would indicate a
+later date. On our left, we came to a pleasantly-situated town, called
+Neuwied, with some five thousand inhabitants. The streets lie wide; the
+houses looked bright, and very much like those in an American town. Here
+is a Moravian settlement. On our right is a cheerful little place,
+called Weisenthurm, and an ancient tower stands near it. It is said that
+here the Romans first made the crossing of this river. This was the spot
+where General Hoch passed in 1797; and on a height, at this village, is
+a monument to celebrate Hoch's achievement. Here we met with an enormous
+raft; and I assure you, Charley, it was a sight. We had seen two or
+three small ones before, but here was a monster. These rafts come from
+the woods on the tributary rivers--the Moselle, Neckar, Maine, &c. These
+prodigious flotillas are bound to Dordrecht, and are there broken up.
+This one looked like a town. It had at least twenty-five huts, and some
+of them tolerably large shanties; and I should think there were all of
+three hundred and fifty persons upon it. On the raft were women,
+children, cows, pigs, and sheep. This one was thought to be seven
+hundred feet long and two hundred wide, at the least. On our left, as we
+ascended the river, we now saw Sain and Muehlhofen, just at the point
+where two small rivers enter the Rhine; and on a hill top are the ruins
+of a castle of the Counts of Sain. Farther up is the quiet-looking
+hamlet of Engers; and we pass the islands of Niederwoerth and Graswoerth.
+On the former is a ruined convent, founded in 1242, and a population of
+nearly seven hundred. They seem to have a fine old church. I very much
+admired the village of Kesselhein, and I think it must be a charming
+spot. Close by it is the Palace of Schoenbornhest, where the Bourbon
+family retreated at the revolution in the last century. It is now sadly
+dilapidated. Just as we were looking at Nuendorf, on our right, we were
+all called, by a bend in the river, to gaze on the giant rock of
+Ehrenbreitstein, bristling to its very summit with fortifications. O,
+how it towers up, and smiles or frowns--which you please--upon Coblentz,
+sweetly reposing on the banks of the Rhine and the Moselle! I think the
+view from the deck of the steamer, up and down the river, and on each
+side, is the noblest panoramic view that I have seen. Just before us is
+a bridge of boats, which connects the fortress with Coblentz; and,
+looking up the Moselle, is a fine stone bridge. We had our dinner on the
+deck of the boat--a good arrangement, because we lost none of the
+scenery. This dinner was about midway between Cologne and Coblentz; and
+it would have amused you to have noticed the order of the various
+courses--soup, boiled beef, raw fish, ducks, roast pork, fowls, pudding,
+baked fish, roast beef, and mutton. Every thing was well cooked, and I
+never saw people appear more disposed to do justice to a meal. There was
+not half the hurry and indecorum that you so often see in an American
+boat. One thing I observed--and that was, that no one used the left hand
+for the management of his knife. If any thing annoys me, it is to see
+persons carve and eat at table with this wretched habit. I always
+imagine that they were so unhappy as to have grown up without father or
+mother to watch over them. This may be my weakness; but I cannot help
+it. We went to the Trois Suisses, a fine house on the river bank, and
+from our windows are looking, by moonlight, on the glorious fortress.
+
+Yours truly,
+
+J.O.C.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 41.
+
+
+FRANKFORT.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+We had no more pleasant day in our excursion than from Cologne to
+Coblentz. It would be long before I grew tired of the scenery at that
+fine old place. We walked about, in the evening, with our New York
+friends; and, though some parts of Coblentz are very filthy, there are
+some exquisite plots in it, and all the vicinage is beautiful. We took a
+pleasant stroll to the bridge which spans the blue Moselle with fourteen
+arches. The city stands on a point of land formed by the two rivers, and
+hence was known to the Romans by the name of _Confluentes_. Drusus
+fortified this place and Ehrenbreitstein thirteen years before Christ.
+Its population is short of twenty thousand; but there are also four
+thousand five hundred Prussian troops at the fortress. This is one of
+the strongest military posts in Europe. Its fortifications have been the
+labor of long years; and the works here, united with those across the
+river, are deemed impregnable. I believe Ehrenbreitstein is called the
+Gibraltar of Germany. It mounts four hundred cannon, and the magazines
+will contain provisions for eight thousand men for ten years. The former
+Electoral Palace is now the Government House, and presents a very noble
+appearance from the river. It is either stone, or stuccoed, with an
+Ionic portico; and, with its wings, is five hundred and forty feet
+front. All round this city, the heights are strongly fortified; and,
+look where you may, you see means of defence.
+
+We here determined upon an excursion to Stolzenfels, which is about four
+miles from Coblentz, and our party went in two carriages--the family of
+Mr. B. in one, and ourselves in the other. The ride was very pleasant
+along the banks of the Rhine, and through orchards and vineyards--the
+heights towering away over us all the way. We came to the village of
+Capellen, which is a poor little hamlet at the base of the lofty
+mountain on which stood the noble ruins of Stolzenfels Castle, which has
+been most admirably restored, and is now the summer palace of the King
+of Prussia. The ascent is very steep, but the road is admirable.
+Carriages are not allowed to go up, and travellers are supplied with
+donkeys, of which we found plenty in waiting. Our party all obtained
+these patient beasts of burden, and I assure you that we made a funny
+cavalcade. I do think it would have amused you to see ladies, gentlemen,
+and boys, all escorted by ragged urchins, mounting the hill. The road
+has been made at immense expense, and winds along in the most romantic
+manner--giving you, at every turn, the finest views and catches of the
+river, up and down; while the walls are frequently at the edges of
+precipices, from fifty to two hundred feet over the ravines below. The
+woods were in all their glory, and I never saw a finer day. On arriving
+at the castle, we rang a bell, and the servant in livery appeared--a
+fine, civil fellow he was. On entering, we were all furnished with felt
+slippers, so that, in walking through the apartments, we might not
+injure the polished oak floors. This castle was the residence of
+Archbishop Werner, who, at the close of the fourteenth century, was
+devoted to alchemy. The old tower is an immense affair, and still
+remains, and is likely to remain for ages. The new parts of the palace
+have all been restored with constant reference to the original
+architectural style. We wandered from one apartment to another, perhaps
+going into twenty or thirty apartments, none of which were very large,
+and many of them quite small and cosy. We saw the bed-room of the king.
+Every thing was plain, and the furniture generally made of oak or black
+walnut. His study table had pen and ink and paper upon it, just as if
+he had stepped out of the room. The queen's apartments were very
+elegantly plain, and her oratory is as pretty a little thing as you can
+imagine. In all these apartments are fine pictures, and one is superbly
+frescoed with allegory and history. The room in which the Queen of
+England and Prince Albert lodged, in 1845, was shown us, and the state
+bed was still in it. The dining hall was finely ornamented with
+carvings, old armor, &c. But a room devoted to antiquities pleased us
+the best of all. Here were cups, bottles, and glass goblets of the
+earliest dates,--some as far back as the twelfth and thirteenth
+centuries,--which had belonged to emperors and electors whom I cannot
+recollect, they were so many. On the walls were the most precious
+mementoes; and here we saw the swords of Marshal Tilly, Napoleon
+Bonaparte,--the one used at Waterloo,--Blucher, and Murat, and the knife
+and fork belonging to the brave Hofer, the Tyrolese patriot, who was
+shot at Mantua. From all the windows of this gem of a palace we had the
+finest views of the river, and could see, from the gateway and platform,
+Coblentz, Ehrenbreitstein, and eleven different ruins of castles and
+convents. Directly in front of us, on a bend of the river, almost making
+a peninsula, was Lahnstein and its ruined castle; off to its right,
+Braubach, and the Castle of Marksburg and Martin's Chapel; and, on our
+own side, the pretty village of Rheus, where was once "the royal seat,"
+and where the electors of the Rhine used to meet, to elect or depose the
+emperors of Germany. All round the castle of Stolzenfels are the
+choicest flowers and shrubs; and I wish some of my horticultural friends
+could have seen the moss roses and fuchias in such luxuriance. We were
+sorry to leave the place; but the steamboat on the Rhine is as punctual
+as a North River boat; and we had to resume our donkeys, descend to the
+carriages, drive briskly, and were just in time to get on board a boat
+bound to Mayence. In going up the river, we saw the palace again to
+great advantage; and, whatever else I forget, this locality I shall keep
+in memory, I assure you. We again looked at Lahnstein, and the ruins of
+St. John's Church, built in 1100, and saw a curious ferry, from the
+mouth of the Lahn over to Stolzenfels. It is made by five or six boats
+anchored off, and the ferry boat goes over, wafted by the tide. We then
+came upon Bopart, an old place, but strongly fortified, and having three
+or four thousand inhabitants. A gentleman on board, who had been there,
+said it was quite an interesting place. Nearly opposite we were
+delighted with the ruined towers of the Brothers, as Sternberg and
+Liebenstein are called. They occupy the two summits of a rock, every
+inch of whose sides is sacred to vines. The story of the brothers who
+lived here you are acquainted with. Our next point of interest was the
+ruin of Thurnberg, or the Mouse; while not far above is another, called
+the Cat. The view here grows more sublime, and the river grows narrower;
+and we had a fine prospect of Rheinfels and the town of St. Goar.
+Rheinfels grows up from the river's edge, and is, indeed, _the_ rock of
+the Rhine. The fortifications were immense, and this is the most
+wonderful ruin on the river. A confederacy of German and Rhenish cities
+broke up this fortress at the close of the thirteenth century, and long
+afterwards it was made a modern defence. Here the river seems pent up,
+almost; and just above St. Goar there rises from the water a lofty
+precipice, called the Lurley Rock. Nearly opposite, a man lives, who,
+when the boat passes, fires a pistol, and a very singular echo follows,
+as we can testify. Not far above are seven rocks, seen at low water,
+called the Seven Sisters. The legend says that they were hard-hearted
+girls,--the Ladies Schonberg,--who trifled with the affections of nice
+young men, and so got their deserts by being turned into stones. Still,
+at the right, we came to Oberwesel, and we all thought it among the
+sweetest spots of the river. Salmon are caught in nets here, from the
+rocks. A bend in the river shows us Schonberg, a fine ruin. This was the
+family spot whence the Marshal Schomberg, of the Boyne, originated. Just
+over the river is the noble Gutenfels. It was spared by the French, and
+occupied till 1807, but is now roofless. Caub, on the left, is the place
+where Marshal Blucher crossed the river with his army, January 1, 1814.
+In the centre of the river is a castle called Pfalz, built about 1320,
+which was used as a toll-house by the Duke of Nassau. I think it has
+been used as a state prison. On our right lies Bacharach, with its many
+towers, and the fine old ruins of Stahleck Castle. Off this place is a
+large rock, the Altar of Bacchus; and when the rock is exposed, it is
+thought to be the pledge of a good vintage. The region is celebrated for
+its wines; and the grapes of the slaty rocks have a highly musky
+perfume. A gentleman told me that Bacharach resembles Jerusalem in its
+aspect. Of course, it must be in miniature that the resemblance exists.
+Here we noticed St. Werner's Church, a most superb ruin of the florid
+Gothic. Those lancet-arched windows are the admiration of all who pass
+by. Lorchausen is a small place, and just away from it are the ruins of
+the Castle of Nollingen. On the other side, or right bank, are the ruins
+of the old Keep Tower of Fuerstenberg, destroyed in 1689. Here we enter
+on the region where the best Rhenish wine is produced. The Rheingau, or
+valley of the river, is divided into upper and lower departments; and
+from about Lorch, on the left bank, up to Biberich, are the choicest
+vineyards. On our right lay the ruins of Heimberg, and the restored
+Castle of Sonneck. Then comes old Falkenberg, and near to it is the
+splendid Gothic Church of St. Clement. All these fortresses were the
+abodes of wholesale highwaymen, and then might made right. Most of them
+became such nuisances that, at the close of the thirteenth century, they
+were hurled down, and their places made desolate. Here, too, is
+Rheinstein, on the very bank of the river. Its early owner was hanged by
+the Emperor Rudolph. One of the Prussian princes has fitted up the
+fortress in magnificent style; and I learn that there is no palace in
+Europe that can boast of such mediaeval splendor. Every thing that can
+serve to illustrate the dark ages is carefully collected for this
+charming spot, which seems a rival to Stolzenfels.
+
+Just across, on the opposite bank, is Assmanshausen, famous for hot
+baths and red wine. Here you see terrace upon terrace, up to the summits
+of the hills; and some of these, the guide books say, are one thousand
+or twelve hundred feet. You will often see fifteen or twenty of these
+terraces supported by brick and stone fences, and the terrace is often
+not more than six feet wide; and the soil and manure have all to be
+carried up on the shoulders of the vine-dressers. The value of this
+region-arises from its aspect, owing to the bend of the river, which
+gives _this left bank, as you ascend_, a direct exposure to the sun at
+midday.
+
+The vintage of the Rhine, I am told, is generally gathered in during
+October and November, but it is put off as late as possible. Grapes were
+introduced here by the Romans.
+
+We now came to Ehrenfels, in its venerable decay, the beautiful tower of
+Rosel, and the ruins of Bromseberg; while on our right are the ruins of
+Vautsberg, and just beyond we come upon "Bingen of the Rhine," at the
+mouth of the Nahe; and close by is the celebrated Mausetherm, or Mouse
+Tower, said to have been built by Hatto, the Archbishop of Mayence, in
+the tenth century. Southey's fine ballad has immortalized the legend.
+Never did town present sweeter aspect than Bingen, at the foot of a
+pyramidical hill, which is crowned by the ruined Castle of Klopp. In a
+church here lies Bartholomew of Holshausen, who prophesied the fatality
+of the Stuarts and Charles II.'s restoration, warning him not to restore
+Popery. Bingen has, I think, some five or six thousand inhabitants, and
+has a great trade in wine, which is collected here from all the
+vineyards around. Rudesheim lies on the other bank, and its famous wine
+comes from grapes growing close to Ehrenfels. Next comes Geisenheim,
+also famous for wine, and soon comes the renowned village and vineyard
+of Johannisberg, or Mountain of St. John. Here the river is wide
+again,--perhaps two thousand fire hundred feet,--and we begin to see
+fine meadows. This is where Prince Metternich has his seat, where once
+was a priory, and various have been its vicissitudes. In 1816, it was
+given to Metternich by the Emperor of Austria. The mountain contains
+only seventy-five acres, and the choicest wine comes only from vines
+growing near the castle, on the crown of the bill. The wine of the
+village is very inferior to that of this estate. The place has but few
+inhabitants--say five or eight hundred. The house is white, and not very
+castle-like. The grape is called the _Riesslingen_.
+
+[Illustration: VINEYARD ON THE RHINE.--Pp. 175.]
+
+Here we found several islands. Erbach and Hattenheim are both famous for
+vineyards, and between them grows the famous Marcobruenner; and the
+Steinberg vineyard, a fortune to the Duke of Nassau, lies upon a slope
+of the hill close to the convent, of Eberbach or Erbach. This convent
+was founded in 1131, but is now a lunatic asylum. The churches here are
+very fine. Opposite the shore lies Rhine Island, and forms a noble park.
+Walluff, with few inhabitants, is regarded as the commencement of the
+Rheingau, or wine district, along which we had coasted. Biberich, on the
+duchy of Nassau, now comes upon our view; and the noble chateau of the
+duke presents one of the finest mansions on the river. Here some of our
+passengers left for Frankfort, and took the rail; but we wished to see
+Mayence, and so went in the boat. The city looks finely, and its red
+towers and steeples make quite a show. This city belongs to the Duke of
+Hesse Darmstadt, and is garrisoned by Austrians and Prussians, in equal
+force, generally eight or ten thousand. Exclusive of these, the
+population is nearly forty thousand. We walked about, and looked at the
+fine Cathedral, which was sadly shut up by houses and shanties. It was
+too late to enter it. You may be sure, Charley, that we found out the
+monument to John Guttemberg, the inventor of movable types. It is of
+bronze, and was designed by Thorwaldsen, and stands in front of the
+Theatre, once a university. After perambulating the town till weary, we
+came to the bridge of boats, sixteen hundred and sixty-six feet long,
+and which connects Mayence with Cassel, a strongly fortified place,
+where the railroad depot is located. At this bridge are several boat
+mills, or tide mills, where grain is ground by the tidal action. They
+look strangely, but work well. On the bridge we met many Austrian
+officers in rich uniforms, most of them young, and, I thought, very
+aristocratical in their bearing. Our dinner on board the boat was as
+profuse as the day before; and I must not forget to tell you that we had
+an English lordling, son of a former premier, on board, with his lady,
+on their matrimonial tour. He was the worst-mannered young man that I
+have seen in Europe; and when he had ogled the company sufficiently with
+his glass, and manifested his contempt pretty plainly, he and his betook
+themselves to the interior of his carriage. He was quite young, and may
+grow better behaved. We took the ears at dark, and after riding
+twenty-two miles found ourselves at Frankfort, having passed through
+Hochheim, where the vineyards are so costly that the railroad company
+had to pay well for the passage-way. Here we put up at the Hotel
+Angleterre. Forgive this long letter; but I could not well shorten it,
+and I want you to know just what we saw.
+
+Always yours,
+
+JAMES.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 42.
+
+
+STRASBURG.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+James's long letter gave you a pretty correct view of our passage from
+Coblentz to Frankfort. You will recollect that we went up the Rhine,
+which gave us more time to look about; but I fancy that in going down
+stream the shores would show to better advantage, if possible, than in
+the ascent. From Coblentz to Mayence the river is narrower than before;
+and every rock more precipitous than its neighbor, has a castle. How
+some of these towers were built, or could be got at, seems a mystery. I
+had no idea of the number of these robbers' nests, for such they were.
+Much as I love the Hudson, yet I cannot help saying that the Rhine is
+_the_ river of the world, so far as I have seen the watery highways.
+Frankfort is one of the free towns of Germany, and lies on the Maine. It
+has about sixty-five thousand inhabitants, of whom seven thousand are
+Jews. I like the city much, and think a residence here would be very
+agreeable. Some of the modern streets are very handsome, and the
+dwellings are fine. The old part of the town is old enough. At our hotel
+we found a sentinel on guard, in honor of an Austrian general staying at
+the house. The house is a capital one, like all the other great hotels
+we have yet seen on the continent. We all went to see the Roemer, or Town
+Hall, which was built about 1425, and which is quite famous for its
+historical associations. Here the German emperors were formerly elected
+and inaugurated. We saw the great hall where they were entertained and
+had crowned heads for waiters. Here, on its walls, are all the portraits
+of the series of emperors from Conrad I. to Francis II., and each
+emperor has his motto underneath. Some of these are quaint enough.
+Directly in front of this building is the Roemerberg, or Market-place, in
+which the carousing incident to coronation used to occur; and it is
+large enough to accommodate a vast assembly. We rode along the banks of
+the river, to see a pretty little palace belonging to Duke Somebody, and
+especially to see the grounds and hothouses. They were exquisitely
+beautiful. As we were here upon a holiday of the church, the Museum was
+closed, and we lost the sight of some good pictures. We were much
+pleased with a visit to the garden of Mr. Bethman, a banker, where we
+saw a pretty little collection of statuary, the gem of which is
+Dannecker's statue of Ariadne. The building in which these are placed is
+neat. We, of course, went to see No. 74 in the Hersch-Graben, where
+Goethe was born, in 1749. In the corner house of the Dom Platz, Luther
+once dwelt We rode through the Jews' quarters; and, of all the
+wretched-looking streets, I think the worst and filthiest is that in
+which Baron Rothschild was born. As we passed a Sabbath here, we
+attended the English Episcopal Church, a neat building. The service was
+well read by the chaplain, and an excellent sermon was preached by a
+stranger. After service I spoke to the chaplain, who was quite anxious
+to hear about the prospects of Popery in America. He seemed to have very
+just views of the system, and anxiously deprecated its influence in our
+Country.
+
+We visited many shops, and found the richest collections of curiosities
+and antiquities. Here we met with several American friends upon their
+tour; and at Frankfort we took leave of our New York friends, whose
+kindness and agreeable company we had been favored with for a few days.
+
+We took the rail for Heidelberg, on our way to Strasburg. The whole of
+the first few miles was through a very flat-looking country, and our
+interest was not called out till we came to Darmstadt, a fine town, with
+thirty thousand inhabitants. We saw a tall column, but could not find
+out its historical allusion. This is the capital of the grand duchy of
+Hesse Darmstadt. In passing through Odenwald, we saw a tract of woody
+country; and off to our left we were quite sure that the scenery must be
+very beautiful. The hills in the distance form the boundary on the
+eastern part of the valley of the Rhine; and the mountain ranges are
+richly covered with vineyards and castles all the way, parallel with the
+railroad. This beautiful region is called the Bergstrasse, and I am sure
+a week or two on these hills would amply repay the pedestrian. It is in
+these wild regions of romance that the Castle of Rodenstein is found,
+some ten miles from Erbach; and not far from it Castle Schnellert, where
+the wild Jager is supposed to live, who haunts the forests and gives
+spectral forewarnings of battles. Off to our left there was a constantly
+shifting panoramic view of hill top and ruins.
+
+Heidelberg is sweetly situated on the bank of the Neckar--a beautiful
+river, and one that I long to trace by its course through wood and hill.
+This town is famous for its university and castle. It has about seven
+hundred and fifty students. We could only see the castle, and admire its
+exterior. The college was founded in 1386, and is very distinguished as
+a law school. The library is very large and excellent. The barbarian
+Tilly is said to have provided litter for his cavalry from books and
+MSS. out of this then magnificent collection. The ruin of this glorious
+old castle dates from 1764, when it was burnt by lightning. It is built
+of red stone. If I live, I hope to visit this place again, and make a
+thorough exploration of this stupendous ruin. It is here, in a cellar,
+that the largest wine butt in the world is found, and it will contain
+eight hundred hogsheads. It has long been empty, however. I never longed
+to follow a river more than I do this same Neckar--it is so clear, and
+all my glimpses of it have been so filled up with quiet beauty and wild
+scenery. We saw a hill, near the town, which affords the finest view, we
+are told, in Germany, and even takes in Strasburg Cathedral spire, which
+is quite ninety miles off!
+
+From Heidelberg we again took the cars for Kehl, about four miles from
+Strasburg, a distance of nearly ninety miles. The first-class cars are
+very luxurious and reasonable; second class, excellent, and very
+genteel-looking persons using them. Lord Cowley, father of Lady Bulwer,
+wife of the minister from England at Washington, was in the cars with
+us, and two of his children--one a beautiful little girl. They were
+going to Baden, and were accompanied by a governess.
+
+We found no more of the extraordinary beauty that had made our morning
+ride so charming. Bruchsal seemed a dull place, as seen from the
+station; and Durlach had not much greater attractions. Carlsruhe is
+quite a place, has some repute for its baths, and is the capital of the
+grand duchy of Baden. Off to the south of this town we saw the skirts of
+the Black Forest. All around we saw a fine growth of poplars. Passing
+Etlingen and Muggensturm, we come to Rastadt--rather a pretty station,
+and the town is fortified. At Oos our passengers for Baden took a branch
+train, which, after three miles' ride, brought them into the famous
+Baden-Baden. We reached Kehl, which is a mere village on the Rhine, but
+has seen enough of war. Here we took an omnibus and started for
+Strasburg, distant some four miles. When we reached the French
+custom-house, over the river, we had quite a searching time; and even a
+flask of cologne was taxed some twenty cents. We were weary enough, and
+glad to get into quarters, which we established at the Ville de Paris,
+a very superior house, with excellent rooms and elegant furniture, while
+the cookery was perfect. To-morrow we have enough to see and to do.
+To-night we shall retire early; but, go where we may, we shall furnish
+you the promised account of our wanderings.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+J.O.C.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 43.
+
+
+STRASBURG.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+Long before we entered this city, we obtained a fine view of its great
+glory, the Cathedral spire. What an object! It does not seem as if
+hammer and chisel had had any thing to do here. I can almost fancy that
+this spire was thought out and elaborated by mere intellect. It would be
+long ere I grew weary of looking at this wondrous work of man. The more
+you examine this edifice, the more you are impressed with its
+magnificence. Let me tell you about this same minster, as it is called.
+The spire is four hundred and seventy-four feet high--one hundred and
+forty feet higher than St. Paul's, and twenty-four feet higher than the
+Pyramids of Egypt. The architect was Erwin of Steinbach, and his plans
+survived him. He died in 1318, when the work was carried on by his son.
+The tower was not finished till four hundred and twenty-five years
+after the commencement of the building, and then Hueltz, from Cologne,
+came to effect the undertaking. The tracery of this lofty pinnacle is
+inimitably beautiful. We ascended the spire, and I can assure you that
+the prospect amply repays the trouble. We saw the winding, silvery
+Rhine, the Black Forest, and the long line of the Vosges Mountains. I
+never felt more keenly my inability to describe a place than when I
+walked through this gorgeous sanctuary. You must see it, to form an
+adequate idea of its grandeur. The nave was begun in 1015, and completed
+in 1275. The choir is yet older, and is thought to belong to the times
+of Charlemagne. The large rose window, over the front entrance, is
+thought to be the finest specimen of stained glass now existing. The
+stone pulpit of 1486 is the grandest we have yet seen, and in better
+taste than some of the carved wood pulpits in Belgium. The columns are
+very massive. One of the chief attractions in this church is the
+mechanical clock, which occupies a large space at the left hand as you
+enter the building. The true time to see it is at twelve o'clock, when
+Death strikes the hour, the apostles all pass before you, a large cock
+up above flaps his wings and crows admirably three times, flags are
+waved, and the affair ends. Here, close by, is the architect Erwin's
+effigy, in stone.
+
+We next went to St. Thomas's Church, to see the superb tomb of Marshal
+Saxe, which is a work of great merit. In a vault we saw the remains of a
+Count of Nassau and his daughter, who had been coffined down for--I
+forget how long, but I think more than two centuries. It was here that
+Guttemburg began his experiments in printing, which he perfected at
+Mayence. We made some purchases here of embroidery, which we thought
+very beautiful, and also cheap. General Kleber's tomb and monument are
+in the Place d'Armes. Of course, we did not visit Strasburg and forget
+that it furnishes _pate's des fois gras_. We obtained some good
+engravings of the churches and other points of interest, and, on a fine
+afternoon, took the railroad for Basle.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+GEORGE.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 44.
+
+
+BASLE.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+We took the cars from Strasburg in the afternoon for this place. The
+distance is eighty-six miles; and, owing to some twenty way stations, we
+were nearly five hours on the rail; but the beauty of the scenery
+reconciled us to a prolongation of the time usually spent on such a
+journey. The general route was over a flat country, with sundry bridges
+over small streams; but, off to our right, we were close to the Vosges
+Mountains, which kept us company nearly every mile of the journey. I
+suppose you know that Strasburg is very strongly fortified. We saw its
+works to great advantage when leaving the city by the train. We were
+much assisted in our knowledge of places on the mountains by a fine
+panoramic volume of engravings which we bought at Strasburg, and which
+really gives a capital idea of the entire scene of travel. I will just
+name the principal places that we passed by and through, that you may
+trace on the map and read about them, for some are important towns. St.
+Erstein is a place of four thousand inhabitants; Benfield is very pretty
+indeed; and close by is a fine-looking town, with a fine situation. We
+saw a noble spire off to our left. Schlestadt has ten thousand
+inhabitants, and is fortified. From it chimneys, we supposed it must be
+a manufacturing place. The view of the Vosges here is very imposing.
+They are generally with rolling summits; and upon some eminence, jutting
+out, stands a castle. The Hoher Koenigsberg is the largest castle of the
+range, and it was destroyed during the thirty years' war, in 1633. Here
+we saw fine vineyards. Colmar looks like a very prosperous place. Its
+manufactories make quite a show, and all around we saw well-built cotton
+factories; and the entire spot had a Rhode Island look. Dr. C. turned
+our attention to the village of Turckheim, about three miles off, where
+Marshal Turenne beat the Imperialists in 1675. Egnisheim and its
+three-towered castle is a small affair. Bolwiller is a perfect vineyard
+all around, and the wines of this region are excellent. Nothing, hardly,
+seems to be cultivated but the vine. Opposite to this place is the
+loftiest of the Vosges; and my panorama makes it four thousand seven
+hundred feet above the sea. Muehlhausen is a very active, busy-looking
+town, with a population of nearly thirty thousand. Here the fine cotton
+prints of France are fabricated. Much of the property is owned at Basle,
+we were afterwards told. This place has to obtain its cotton from Havre
+and Marseilles; and even coal has to come from a distance.
+
+It was dark when we took an omnibus at the terminus; and, after riding
+over an old bridge, we were very soon established at a princely hotel
+known as the Trois Rois. This house is on the banks of the Rhine, and
+its windows command a very fine view. The historical reminiscences of
+Basle are interesting, and its position very commanding. Here the Rhine
+is bounded by the hills of the Black Forest and the Jura range.
+
+Next morning we took a stroll to see the lay of the land; and we found
+ourselves on a terrace overlooking the Rhine, and forming a part of the
+cathedral ground. O, it was glorious to look at, Charley. There,
+stretched away on the other side, were the hills of the Black Forest,
+whose legends we have so often pored over. This terrace is finely-wooded
+with linden and chestnut-trees. We walked back to town, and called upon
+our consul, Mr. Burchardt, and found him very kind and friendly. He gave
+himself up to us for the entire day, and became our guide to all the
+objects of interest. He dined with us; and then we all went to his
+charming country-house, about one and a half miles from town, and took
+tea with his family. Our first object was the Cathedral. This is a red
+sandstone church, with two steeples, and was consecrated in 1019. The
+crypt, no doubt, is as ancient as this date. Here is the tomb of the
+empress, wife of Rudolph of Hapsburg. Here, too, we saw the tombstone of
+Erasmus, who died in 1536. In the cloisters, which are very noble, are
+the monuments of OEcolampadius, Grynaeus and Myer, the reformers. This
+church is Protestant. It is plain, but venerable. In the chapter-house,
+which we visited, was held the Council of Basle, which lasted from 1436
+to 1444. The room is just as it then appeared, and the very cushions on
+the seats are still preserved. Our next visit was to the Holbein
+Gallery, where the largest collection of paintings by this master is to
+be seen. Here we saw the fragments of the Dance of Death, but which
+some say are of an earlier date than Holbein's day. I liked his
+portraits better than his other pieces. One sketch of Sir Thomas More's
+family is very fine. We also saw the library, and a large collection of
+Roman antiquities. The portraits are very fine at the library; and we
+saw those of Euler and Bernouilli, the mathematicians. At the university
+we saw the building, and received polite attentions from the librarian
+and Latin professor. We also saw the professor of chemistry, renowned
+for his discovery of gun cotton. The collection of MSS. is very large
+and rich; and we had the gratification to have in our hands the
+handwriting of several letters by Melancthon, Calvin, Luther, Erasmus,
+&c., &c. I think this is a good place to live in for purposes of study.
+At Basle there is a large missionary seminary; and a great many of the
+best missionaries in India and Africa were educated here. We also
+visited the private reading-room of a club, and found a very good
+library there. On the table were several American papers--the New York
+Herald, Express, and the Boston Mercantile Journal. After dinner we took
+a carriage and repaired to St. Jacob, a quiet village, about one mile
+from Basle. Here we found a neat little church, and, at the junction of
+two roads, a Gothic cross, to commemorate the famous battle of St.
+Jacob, in 1444, when sixteen hundred Swiss fought the French army under
+the dauphin for a whole day. The French were over sixteen thousand
+strong. Only ten Swiss escaped the slaughter. Lest you should think me
+at fault upon the numbers in this battle, I would say that I know
+Watteville calls the Swiss twelve hundred, and the French thirty
+thousand; but I quote from Swiss historians, who are deemed good
+authority. We went into the little tavern and drank some red wine, which
+goes by the name of Swiss blood. We then ascended an eminence commanding
+a fine view of the city, the river, and the Jura Mountains. At the
+summit we found a church; and the parsonage next to it looked very cosy
+and comfortable. The pastor's children were running about, and were very
+noble-looking boys. We learnt that while the stipend of the pastor was
+very small,--as is the case in Switzerland,--yet he was a man of wealth.
+
+We were quite amused with the market day here. Droves of country people
+were in the streets--the women in country costume; and on the ground
+there were vast collections of crockery, which seemed one of the chief
+articles of traffic.
+
+A charming drive, late in the afternoon, took us to the consul's
+hospitable abode; and there, with his lady, we had a thoroughly Yankee
+tea-time. In the evening we walked back to the city, crossing the old
+bridge.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+WELD.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 45.
+
+
+LAUSANNE.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+We left Basle on a bright morning, at six o'clock, having places in the
+_coupe_ of the diligence for Berne, a distance of seventy-six miles. We
+took this route in order to enjoy the remarkable scenery which marks the
+Moutiers Valley, which is the most romantic in the Jura Mountain range.
+This journey entirely takes the palm, for enjoyment, of any in our tour;
+and I think I am more surprised and gratified than I was on the Rhine.
+Certainly the prospect was more constantly grand and awe inspiring. We
+started with six horses,--three abreast,--and jogged on, at about six
+miles the hour, over as good roads as I ever travelled. They are, also,
+the cleanest you ever saw. All along, at intervals, we saw men with
+badges on their hats, who appeared to have charge of the highway. Every
+thing on the road is scraped up; and at every quarter of a mile, or
+less, there is at the wayside an enclosure for manure, into which every
+thing is turned. On all the line of travel in Switzerland, we were
+struck with the careful way in which heaps of manure are protected by
+large bands of corded hay, twisted around. Then, too, in the villages
+and towns we were all interested with the enormous stone troughs for
+watering cattle. Some of these appeared to me full twenty feet long,
+and two or three deep. On our way from Basle we passed the battle ground
+of St. Jacob; and some way farther on we saw the battle field of
+Dornach, at which place the Swiss obtained a victory over the Austrians
+in 1499. A little before reaching Tavannes we ascended a hill, and came
+to a wonderful archway across the road--perhaps natural. On it is a
+Roman inscription. The arch is, I should think, nearly fifty feet high
+and fifteen feet in depth. We then went on to Bienne; and a
+pretty-looking place it is. We left it on our right, and our road was
+very hilly, really mountainous, and the air was sharp. As we walked for
+two or three miles to help the horses, we found the wild strawberries
+offered for sale very pleasant. We reached Berne late in the evening;
+and the entrance to the town, through a noble avenue of trees called the
+Engae, was very pleasant. We repaired to the Faucon, and enjoyed the
+repose of a long night.
+
+Berne is a large town, with a population of nearly thirty thousand. It
+lies on the banks of the Aar, which goes almost round the city. The
+great elevation of the city--seventeen hundred feet above the sea--gives
+it quite an appearance on approaching it. Then the houses are all built
+upon arched pathways, and they form arcades, very much like the old city
+of Chester, in England. We noticed several watch towers, evidently very
+ancient; and one in the town, near our hotel, has a queer clock, which,
+like that at Strasburg, is mechanical. On striking, out comes a cock and
+flaps away with his wings, and then little images appear, and bears pass
+by a puppet, seated on a throne. Bears seem to be the guardian angels of
+the place, and are the arms of the town. We were very much pleased with
+an extensive prospect of the Bernese Alps, from a terrace overhanging
+the rapid river. I cannot tell you how many peaks we saw covered with
+snow. Our panorama, purchased here, enumerates more than a dozen; and
+among these are the Wetterhorn, Stockhorn, and Jungfrau. We greatly
+enjoyed a fine sunset from this spot. The Cathedral is a noble
+structure, built between 1421 and 1573, and from designs by the son of
+the architect of the Cathedral at Strasburg. Some of the work here is
+exceedingly fine. The great entrance is very imposing, and has rich
+sculptures. Here, too, are some beautifully-painted windows--one
+describing the pope grinding the four evangelists in a mill, out of
+which comes wafers, is very curious. The organ is very fine, and the
+case one of the richest in Europe. It has four rows of keys and
+sixty-six stops. The font is of black granite, and has the date of 1525,
+which is three years previous to the church reformation in this canton.
+It has some finely-sculptured images of the Trinity, Virgin Mary, and
+St. Vincent, the patron saint of the church. We were pointed out the
+communion table, of marble, which is an immense block, and before the
+reformation it was an altar at Lausanne. There are some fine monuments,
+having great antiquity.
+
+In the choir we were delighted with the old prebendal stalls, over which
+were figures of Christ and his apostles, and on the opposite side
+prophets, all in carved wood. One of the prophets was a capital likeness
+of Luther.
+
+As we were leaving this noble edifice, we met a minister coming in; he
+wore a short, black gown, and had a deep white ruff on his shoulders.
+
+The library of the town embraces about forty-five thousand volumes--and
+well assorted, too. What a reproach it is to us that, excepting in
+Providence, hardly any small city has what can be called a library!
+
+The Museum we could not examine. I spoke of bears: well, the town keeps
+several of these fellows at a place called the Baerengraben.
+
+Much did we long to take a trip into the Bernese Oberland, but it was
+not practicable; so we started for Lausanne by diligence, a distance of
+fifty-six miles, and were eleven hours on the way. We saw much fine
+scenery, but nothing that would compare with the Munster Thal or Valley
+of Moutiers, and which I think would pay any lover of nature to come
+from America to look at and travel through. The places we went through
+were Morat, famous for its battle in 1476; Avenches, the Roman
+Aventicum; Payerne, &c. The last few miles were of great labor in
+ascent; and as it was pitch dark for some miles, I cannot tell much
+about what is said to be beautiful.
+
+At Lausanne we went to the Hotel Gibbon, and a lovelier spot than the
+rear of this mansion eye never rested upon. Again we were weary, and
+found good beds very inviting.
+
+Yours, &c.,
+
+JAMES.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 46.
+
+
+LAUSANNE AND GENEVA.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+We are staying in one of the most romantic and beautiful spots that I
+ever had the pleasure to visit. The population is seventeen thousand,
+and on the increase. It is the favorite resort of the English; and no
+wonder, for here are displays of the glory and of the power of the
+Creator rarely to be seen. The town stands on a mount, and descends
+gradually to the lake. On every side are most precipitous ravines; and
+the streets are the most break-neck-looking highways I ever saw.
+Putnam's Leap would be thought nothing of at Lausanne.
+
+Our hotel overlooks Gibbon's garden, and we saw his trees and seat.
+Here he composed his eloquent work on the Roman empire. His portrait is
+in the hotel dining-room. The prospect surpasses in richness all that I
+had fancied. Before us lie the Alps, with snowy tops; between us and
+these is the glassy lake, and on its waters we notice a regatta, the
+boats all adorned with flags and the crews with ribbons. There are, I
+should think, from fifty to seventy-five boats in sight. Up in the Alps
+there is a fire in the woods; and the volume of smoke and flashing of
+flame form a fine addition to the scene.
+
+The temperature of the climate is very favorable to health; and now, in
+June, it reminds us of our finest clear days at Newport.
+
+On Sabbath morning we repaired to a charming little Episcopal church,
+near the lake; and the walk of a mile down hill was delightful. On both
+sides of the road were fine villas, and on the left one estate had its
+long wall defended by a hedge of roses in full bloom; such a hedge is
+rarely to be witnessed. We heard a prosy sermon from the old gentleman
+who has officiated there for some years. I noticed a lady and four sweet
+little girls who sat in the next pew to us, and was convinced that she
+was an English lady; and when we overtook her ascending the hill, on our
+return, I took the liberty to ask a question about the church. She very
+politely gave me the information, and a conversation commenced. She told
+me, as a stranger, what I ought to see; and when we were leaving her,
+she politely offered us an invitation to join her family in the evening,
+to take a walk to the mountain overhanging Lausanne, known as the
+Signal, and from whence, in olden time, the watch-fire used to be
+kindled when the cantons were called to arm for liberty, or danger was
+expected. This kindness we accepted; and when she gave me her address, I
+found I had to call at the Hotel de Ville. Well, at half past six, the
+lads and I repaired to the mansion, a very venerable pile, and we found
+that our kind friend was no less a personage than the wife of the
+syndic, or mayor of the city. We were most kindly received and
+introduced to his honor--a fine-looking, elderly gentleman, who spoke no
+English; but his family conversed generally in our language. We sallied
+forth, and took a walk up, up, up,--never will the boys forget that
+tramp; indeed, Charley, it was the hardest affair I ever went through;
+but after the ascent was achieved, the recompense was ample. Such a
+survey of lake, shore, Alps, city, villages, vineyards, cannot be
+enjoyed elsewhere. It was very cold in these upper regions; and as we
+descended, the shades of night were over us, and a beautiful moon made
+its appearance. When parting from our friends, they urged our joining
+them at seven o'clock to visit the Cathedral, with the mayor as our
+guide. I accepted the polite offer, but the boys were frightened at the
+thought of another ascent; for the minster is perched upon a cliff, and
+you ascend some hundreds of steps to reach the platform.
+
+At seven we were on hand, and with the syndic and his sweet little girl
+we visited the finest Gothic pile in Switzerland, which was built in
+1275, and consecrated by Gregory X. The form is that of the Latin cross.
+Formerly it had two towers; but one was destroyed by lightning, in 1825.
+Here are several fine monuments and tombs of interest; one an effigy in
+mail armor of Otho of Grandeson, and another of Pope Felix V., who
+resigned the papacy and became a monk, and a very beautiful one to the
+wife of Stratford Canning; the figures of which are eight in number, and
+two of them are by Canova; also the tomb of Bernard de Menthon, founder
+of the St. Bernard Hospice.
+
+We returned to the Hotel de Ville and took breakfast with Madame Gadaud,
+for whom and her kind family we shall long cherish grateful
+recollections.
+
+From Lausanne we took boat for Vevay. The port of Lausanne is the little
+village of Ouchy. I ought to tell you that John Philip Kemble, the great
+tragedian, is buried two miles from this place. We found the excursion
+on the lake very agreeable, and passed many pretty villages on the left
+shore till we came to Vevay, a sweet little town, of five thousand
+inhabitants, and is embowered in vineyards. It is about one mile and a
+quarter from the foot of the Alps. Here we had a view of the Castle of
+Chillon, and Byron was on our tongues at once. My great object in coming
+here was to see St Martin's Church, for here are buried Ludlow, the
+regicide, and Broughton, who read the sentence of Charles I. Charles II.
+could never get the Swiss to deliver these patriots into his hands. In
+the afternoon we took another boat and went to Geneva in about five
+hours, and stopped at Ouchy, Morges, Rolle, Nyon, and Coppet. At Morges
+is a fine old castle, in good condition. Nearly opposite Rolle we saw
+the hoary head of Mont Blanc, towering above the giant brotherhood of
+Alpine heights. We did not see Lake Leman in a storm, and though
+certainly beautiful in its adjuncts, not more so than Lake Erie. At
+Coppet was the residence of Madame De Stael.
+
+We reached Geneva in the evening at seven, and went to the Hotel L'Eou.
+Here we were delighted to meet again with the Rev. Dr. Murray and Dr.
+Chetwood, and also to find the Rev. Mr. Chickering and Rev. Mr. Jacobus,
+with his family, and other valued friends.
+
+The approach to Geneva from the lake is very imposing; but I was less
+pleased with the town itself than I expected to be. Its position is very
+grand. Its history is every thing, however. The Cathedral Church of St.
+Peter is a fine specimen of the Gothic of the eleventh century. The
+sounding board is the same under which Calvin preached.
+
+The population is about forty thousand, including the suburbs, and
+thousands of tourists are every year residents for a few days. We had a
+pleasant morning at the Museum, where are some good pictures and many
+curiosities. In the library are Calvin's letters in MS., forty or fifty
+volumes of MS. sermons, &c. This same Calvin and this old town of Geneva
+have had much to do with our own blessed country; and we feel the agency
+of this man and this town in all our ten thousand joys and comforts.
+
+I could not forget that here was the home of Merle D'Aubigne, the
+historian of the Protestant reformation, and that here, too, is the
+residence of the learned Gaussen, the author of Theopneusty, and of the
+venerable Caesar Malan. Calling upon this last-named gentleman, I was
+delighted to find that the Evangelical Association of Geneva was in
+annual session. This is the great Protestant body with which the
+American Evangelical Union is in alliance, and for whose operations our
+friend Dr. Baird has awakened so lively an interest. I went to the
+church where the meeting was convened, and was introduced to Count
+George, a very pious Frenchman of fortune, who resides here and devotes
+himself to the cause of the Protestant religion. He is a Baptist, but is
+connected with the church which embraces several evangelical
+denominations. The count presided with great ability; he is a very
+elegant man, about thirty-four, I should imagine.
+
+I had the pleasure to hear D'Aubigne give a report of his visit to Great
+Britain. He spoke for two hours. He is quite the orator, and had entire
+command of the audience, who wept and laughed as he proceeded. The
+historian is a very noticeable man, and strongly reminded us all of
+President Wayland, to whom his resemblance is very striking.
+
+Dr. Murray made a few remarks on behalf of his brethren, and we were all
+invited to a _soiree_ at the assembly-rooms in the evening. Perhaps two
+hundred and fifty ladies and gentlemen were present. Several addresses
+and prayers were made. I was announced for an address, but came late on
+the list; and having no fancy to be translated by a man at my elbow, I
+quietly withdrew at the fitting time. I was much pleased with Professor
+Gaussen, who is a very accomplished gentleman. He looks about
+forty-five, but told me he was very much older.
+
+The clergy present at this convocation were from various parts of France
+and all the Swiss cantons, and I never saw a finer set of men in any
+clerical assembly. Pastor Malan is exceedingly venerable in his
+appearance. He is about sixty-eight years of age, his hair gray, and
+worn long in the neck, with a good deal of curl to it. His gait is
+quick, and he has much the manner of the venerable Dr. Beecher. This
+patriarch of Geneva is very cheerful, knows every one, and has a word
+for every one. He told me that he loved Americans, but that they had
+spoiled his habitation by stealing two of his daughters, who, he
+explained to me, were married to excellent clergymen in the United
+States.
+
+We met with great kindness in this city from Mr. Delorme, a gentleman
+who once resided in New York. He invited us to accompany his family on
+an excursion to the summit of the Saleve, a mountain in Savoy, which is
+three thousand one hundred and fifty feet above the lake. We went in two
+carriages, and stopped at a village on the mountain side, where we had
+cakes, coffee, and wine. Here, in a sweet little arbor, surrounded with
+roses, we gazed at Mont Blanc, and on a near summit could very clearly
+trace the profile of Napoleon. He looks "like a warrior taking his
+sleep." The illusion surpasses in accuracy of expression any thing that
+I know of that is similar; there are chin, nose, eye, and the old cocked
+hat, while the eternal vapor over the summit of the peak forms the
+feather.
+
+We looked down in a ravine and saw the Aar with its icy stream. The
+carriages went round to meet the party, and the ascent was made. The
+mountain seems to hang over Geneva, though several miles off. We were
+greatly pleased with a few good houses, in fine positions; but Savoy is
+not Switzerland. Here Popery is rampant and pauperism evident. Beggars
+beset our carriages, and the people looked squalid.
+
+[Illustration: Swiss Cottage.]
+
+I forgot to tell you how much we were pleased with the cottages in
+Switzerland; they are quite cheerful looking,--some very fine
+affairs,--but many are not very unlike our western log-houses.
+
+We returned to Geneva at about ten, and found at our friend's house a
+most sumptuous repast provided for our entertainment. I never sat down
+at a more elegant supper table. Every luxury seemed placed before us,
+including the richest wines of the Rhine.
+
+The Roman salad, a peculiar kind of lettuce, which we saw in France, and
+here again, seemed to us all as quite different from our ordinary kinds;
+and I have at Genera obtained four or five varieties of the seed for
+home cultivation.
+
+While at this city we procured some good specimens of wooden ware, Swiss
+cottages, &c., and the boys bought watches, jewelry, &c., for presents.
+
+We were all delighted with a little island in the centre of a bridge
+which goes across the lake; it was a favorite retreat of Rousseau, and
+there is a statue to his memory.
+
+Calvin's residence is still to be seen, No. 116 Rue des Chanoins. We saw
+the place where Servetus was burnt. The place and prospect were too
+beautiful for such a foul desecration. But Calvin's virtues were his
+own, and the faults he fell into belonged to the influence of the age.
+It was much so with those greatest and best of men, the New England
+Pilgrim Fathers. I know they had faults, but they were only spots upon
+the polished mirror. God reared them up, a rare race of men, for a rare
+purpose; and I do not like to hear them abused because they were not
+perfect. If Laud had come to Plymouth Rock instead of Brewster, Bonner
+instead of Carver, what kind of a community would have been established
+and handed down?
+
+In Geneva, too, we had the pleasure to meet a valued friend, Mr. B.,
+from Providence, who has been travelling extensively, and gathering up
+the treasures of other cities to enrich the one of his birth.
+
+To-morrow we are off for Paris, and go by diligence to Dijon; thence by
+railroad.
+
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+J.O.C.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 47.
+
+
+PARIS.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+We started from Geneva in the diligence for Dijon, a long drag of one
+hundred and twenty miles. The weather was oppressively hot, and
+certainly the roads could not well be more dusty. We had two very
+gentlemanly companions, Swiss, who were going to London to visit the
+exhibition. We entered France about four miles on our way, and came to
+Ferney, where Voltaire so long resided. We passed Gex, and ascended the
+Jura; then to La Vattay. The view from the mountain of the lake and Mont
+Blanc, together with the Alpine range, is never to be forgotten by one
+who has the good fortune to see it. I feel that I am acquiring new
+emotions and gathering up new sources of thought in this journey, and
+that I cannot be a trifler and waster away of life in such a world as
+that I live in. I find in every place so much to read about, and study
+over, and think upon, that I now feel as if life itself would not be
+long enough to do all I should like to effect. One thing is certain,
+Charley; I cannot be indolent without feeling that, with the motives and
+stimulus of this tour pressing upon me, I shall be very guilty.
+
+The scenery of this journey has set me thinking; and so I have written
+rather sentimentally, but truly.
+
+At St. Laurent we came to the French custom-house, and a pretty thorough
+overhauling they made. I believe the fellows hooked some of our
+engravings, which they carried out of the room.
+
+Still up, till we reached Morez, the Jura's greatest elevation. The last
+half was travelled in the night; so I cannot give you the line of march.
+We got to Dijon about eight in the morning, and only had time to get a
+hasty breakfast at the railroad station; but we had quite a look at the
+city before entering the cars for Paris.
+
+Dijon is the capital town of the old Burgundy, and is a fine old place,
+with nearly thirty thousand inhabitants. Here is a great show of
+churches, and they seem built for all ages. The Cathedral is a
+noble-looking edifice. We had no time to see the old ducal palace, which
+has so many historical events connected with it. We saw some beautiful
+promenades, but only glanced at them. Bossuet was born here, and St.
+Bernard only a mile outside the walls, in a castle yet standing.
+
+The new railroad had just been opened to Paris, and is one hundred and
+ninety-six miles and a half of most capital track. We went through
+Verrey, Montbard, Nuits, Tonnerre, La Roche, Joigny, Sens, Montereau,
+Fontainebleau, Melun, to Paris. Montbard gave birth to Buffon, the
+naturalist. Nuits is famous for the vintage of its own name, Romanee,
+and other choice wines of Burgundy. Near Tonnerre is the chateau of
+Coligny d'Audelot, brother to the admiral massacred on St. Bartholomew's
+night. Sens is famous for its Cathedral, which is apparently very
+splendid; and here are the vestments of Thomas a Becket, and the very
+altar at which he knelt, all of which I wanted to see. Fontainebleau is
+beautifully placed in the midst of a forest. Here is a palace, and at
+this place Napoleon bade farewell to the Old Guard, in 1814. This place
+is celebrated for its grapes, raised in the vicinity. Melun was known
+in Caesar's time, and in 1520 was taken by Henry V., of England, and held
+ten years. We reached Paris on the evening of Saturday, and again
+occupied our old quarters at the Hotel Windsor. I went off to my
+favorite bathing-house at the Seine, and felt wondrously refreshed after
+the heat and dust of more than three hundred miles and two days'
+journeying.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+JAMES.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 48.
+
+
+PARIS.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+We have again arrived at this charming city, and hope to pass a few
+pleasant days, which will be chiefly devoted to purchases of clothing
+and some of the beautiful articles which are so abundant in the shops of
+this metropolis. Besides, we have some few places to visit before we
+return to England. On Sabbath day we went to the Methodist Chapel, near
+the Church of the Madeleine, and heard a capital sermon from Dr.
+Ritchie, the president of the Canadian Conference. In the evening I
+preached. The congregations were very good, and the preacher of the
+chapel seems a very gentlemanly and pleasant man. In the congregation I
+had the pleasure to meet with our eloquent countryman and my old
+friend, the Rev. James Alexander, D.D., of New York, and I announced
+that he would preach on Wednesday evening. We went into the Madeleine
+and spent nearly an hour. The house is very splendid; but it does not
+appear devotional, or likely to inspire suitable feelings. I prefer the
+Gothic pile, or a plainer temple. It is all painting, gilding, flowers,
+and form. Here Popery shows her hand, and outdoes every thing that she
+dares yet show in New England. The music was exquisite, and the voices
+of the boys very sweet. Many of the people seemed in earnest. The
+priests appeared to me devoid of interest. We went one morning to the
+Pantheon. This noble church was formerly known as St. Genevieve, and was
+rebuilt, in 1764, by a lottery under the auspices of Louis XV. The
+portico is an imitation of the one at Rome on its namesake, and consists
+of Corinthian columns nearly sixty feet high, and five feet in diameter.
+The interior form is that of a Greek cross. Every thing here is grand
+and majestically simple. Above the centre of the cross rises a dome of
+great beauty, with a lantern above. In this building are one hundred and
+thirty columns. The church is three hundred and two feet by two hundred
+and fifty-five. In this building are the tombs and monuments of some of
+the great men of France. Voltaire, Rousseau, Mirabeau, and Marat were
+here buried, but were taken up by the Bourbons, at the restoration. La
+Grange and Lannes also rest here. Here we saw seven copies of the famous
+frescoes of Angelo and Raphael, in the Vatican, and several pieces of
+statuary. The vaults extend beneath the church to a great length. I
+believe this is the highest spot in Paris. On leaving the place, I
+looked again at the dome, which greatly pleased me. It is three hundred
+feet above the floor of the church; and the painting, by Gros, is very
+fine. I think we have seen nothing of the kind that is so beautiful. It
+is principally historical; and among the figures are Clovis, Clotilda,
+Charlemagne, St. Louis, Louis XVIII., and the Duchess d'Angouleme, with
+the infant Duke of Bourdeaux; and above all these, as in heaven, are
+Louis XVI., Marie Antoinette, Louis XVII., and Madame Elizabeth.
+
+We were all thankful enough to find that the Louvre is at last open. We
+walked there, looking with interest at the Tuileries, which I cannot
+help admiring, although some think it devoid of architectural merit. Its
+wide-spread pavilions of one thousand feet, looming up with
+time-darkened walls, always please me. The palace of the Louvre is an
+older edifice than the Tuileries; the newer portion was the work of the
+reign of Louis XIV. The quadrangle is very fine, and the proportions of
+the entire building admirable. Our business was with that part called
+the Musee Royal, and here are the paintings and statues which have
+given such a renown to Paris. You must recollect, my dear fellow, that
+we cannot tell you all about these pictures, for the gallery is nearly
+one third of a mile in length, and each side is filled up with canvas,
+and the rooms are lofty. There was a time when almost all that
+continental Europe thought exquisite in art was to be found here.
+Bonaparte levied contributions on all the capitals he conquered, and
+here he deposited his ill-gotten spoils. Once were seen in this place
+the great masterpieces of Raphael, Guido, Titian, Domenichino, Murillo,
+Rubens, Rembrandt, Potter, and a host of other artists who created
+beauty; but when right overcame might, these pictures were returned to
+their original owners. The catalogue we bought was a volume of five
+hundred pages, and was only of statuary; and what could we do but walk,
+wonder, and admire? To examine would be a task and pleasure for three
+months. The department of statuary is very large; and here we saw
+surprising fragments of the Grecian and Roman schools. The paintings by
+Rubens here are numerous, but by no means as fine as those we saw at
+Antwerp and in the museums of Holland. All the great masters are here,
+and their works are finely arranged. We saw some of Claude Lorraine's
+that were beautiful; and some pictures that I missed, since I was here
+in 1836, have been transferred, I learn, by Louis Philippe, to
+Versailles and other palaces. The gallery has been thoroughly painted
+and beautified; and I never saw a place more radiant with gilding and
+frescoes. The ceilings are very gorgeous.
+
+We selected a fine day for an excursion to Versailles; and, that we
+might have our pleasure consulted as to sight-seeing, we preferred a
+private carriage to the railroad. Versailles is about twelve miles from
+Paris, and has some twenty-five or thirty thousand inhabitants. Henry
+IV. used to resort here for hunting. Louis XIII. had a lodge here for
+his comfort when following the chase. Louis XIV. turned the lodge into a
+palace, and began operations in 1664. In 1681, he removed with his court
+to this place. The Chapel was begun in 1699, and finished in 1710. The
+Theatre was inaugurated at the marriage of Louis XVI., in 1770. A new
+wing was built by Louis XVIII. Louis Philippe made great additions, and
+devoted the palace to the noble purpose of a national depot of all that
+is glorious in the history of France. What Louis Philippe did here you
+may imagine, when I tell you that on the restoration and improvement of
+Versailles he expended fifteen millions of francs. Why, Charley, the
+stables are like mansions, and fine ones, too. The grand court is three
+hundred and eighty feet wide, and the Place d'Armes, which leads to it,
+is eight hundred feet wide. The iron railings which divide these are
+very richly gilt. On either side the court are ranges of buildings
+intended for the ministers of the king; and here are sixteen colossal
+marble statues, which I well remember, at the Pont de la Concorde, in
+Paris. They are great names of old and modern renown. In the centre of
+the court is a colossal equestrian statue of Louis XIV. Now comes
+another court devoted to royalty; and north and south are wings and
+pavilions, one built by Louis XV., and the other by Louis Philippe. Next
+we see the Cour de Marbre, around which is the old palace of Louis
+XIII., crowned with balustrades, vases, trophies, and statues. South of
+the Cour Royale is a small court called Cour des Princes, and divides
+the wing built by Louis XVIII. from the main body of the southern wing.
+The Grand Commun is a vast square edifice, enclosing a court. It has one
+thousand rooms; and when Louis XIV. lived here, three thousand people
+lodged: in this building. The chapel is exceedingly beautiful. It is in
+Corinthian style, and is one hundred and forty-eight feet by
+seventy-five, and ninety feet high. The front of the palace is
+magnificent in the highest degree. "It presents a large projecting mass
+of building, with two immense wings, and consists of a ground floor,
+first floor of the Ionic style, and attic. The wings exceed five hundred
+feet in length. The central front is three hundred and twenty feet
+long, and each of its retiring sides two hundred and sixty feet. The
+number of windows and doors _of this front_ are three hundred and
+seventy-five." To describe the paintings and statuary would require a
+volume. Let me say that here on the walls is all the history of France
+that conduces to her glory. Every battle by land or sea, that she ever
+won, is here; but not an allusion to her defeats. I looked hard for
+Agincourt and Cressy; to say nothing of later conflicts, but they were
+not to be seen. Some of these pictures have great merit, while others
+are coarsely designed and executed. The historical series begins with
+the Baptism of Clovis, in 495, and comes down to the present period,
+with the illustration of about eleven hundred subjects. Then there are
+about one hundred views of royal palaces, and series as follows:
+Portraits of the kings of France, of French admirals, of constables of
+France, and of marshals of France, to the number of some two hundred and
+fifty; of French warriors, of personages who became celebrated in
+different ways, which amount to nearly eighteen hundred; and here we
+found several Americans. We noticed the likeness of Mr. Webster, by
+Healy; but the canvas is too small, and the picture has faded. It is not
+equal to the noble painting by Harding, which we saw just before we left
+home. These last portraits afforded us a great treat; and here we saw
+fine likenesses of the great ones of the earth. All the old pictures
+have dates of death, and many of birth. The sculpture gallery is very
+rich. There are more than six hundred figures, some of them exceedingly
+expressive and beautiful. I should think that more than two hundred and
+fifty of the historical paintings relate to events and persons connected
+with the power of Napoleon.
+
+A very conspicuous feature is the series illustrating the conquest of
+Algiers. These are four in number, and are immense as to size--I should
+think thirty or forty feet in length. They are by Horace Vernet, and are
+very effective. The apartments of the palace are perfectly regal. They
+quite come up to one's preconceived ideas of the days of Louis le Grand.
+I looked with interest at the door through which Marie Antoinette made
+her escape, and whence she was dragged by the mob. The chamber of Louis
+XIV. is just as it was in his time. Here the grand monarch died upon
+that bed. There is the balustrade which fenced off the bed of majesty.
+The ceiling of this room has the noblest painting in France. It is Jove
+launching his bolts against the Titans, and was done by Paul Veronese.
+Napoleon brought it from Venice. There seemed no end to the apartments.
+We saw those of Madame Maintenon, the royal confessional, and the
+dining-room of Louis XIV., which was the cabinet of Louis XVI. In this
+room Louis XIV. entertained Moliere when he had been ill treated or
+neglected by his ministers and courtiers. "I am told that the officers
+of my household do not find that you were made to eat with them. Sit
+down at this table, and let them serve us up breakfast." This was his
+language to the great poet, when he had called him to his presence. The
+king then helped him to a fowl's wing, and treated him in the most
+gracious manner. He knew the worth of genius. The king could make a
+marshal, but he could not make a poet. All the innumerable rooms have
+beautiful paintings and works of art. One room, called the Saloon of the
+Crusades, was delightfully interesting; and the great pictures of that
+apartment did much to impress the events of the holy wars upon our
+minds.
+
+George was in ecstasies with the _souvenirs_ of his idol the emperor;
+and as we shall leave him for five or six months in Paris, I expect
+that, in addition to the vast amount of knowledge which he really
+possesses of the history of Napoleon, he will return home posted up with
+all the _on dits_ of the worshippers of the emperor.
+
+The Theatre is very fine. It is quite large, and would be admired in any
+capital. It was built by Louis XV., at the instance of Madame Pompadour.
+It was Used by Louis Philippe, and we saw his seat.
+
+The gardens are world renowned; so we _must_ admire them. They did not
+quite come up to my notions. The fountains, statuary, ponds,
+orange-trees, are all very grand; but I cannot say that I was as pleased
+as the boys were. Perhaps I was weary; I know I was anxious. I had an
+old and valued friend living in Versailles, and was unable to ascertain
+her residence.
+
+We went to the Grand and Petit Trianon. The great Trianon is a palace
+with one story, and having two wings. The little Trianon has two
+stories. Here royalty has loved to loiter when tired of the splendors of
+the stupendous palace close by. Here are some exquisite paintings,
+brought by Louis Philippe from the Louvre.
+
+We repaired to a good _cafe_ close by the palace, had a satisfactory
+dinner with Mr. Hodgson and his family, and then took our carriage for
+Paris.
+
+Our route to Versailles was through Passy, where our Dr. Franklin lived
+in 1788, at No. 40 Rue Bass. Beranger resides in this village. It seems
+a favorite resort for genius; for here have resided the Chancellor
+D'Aguesseau, Boileau, Moliere, and Condorcet.
+
+We passed through Sevres, where the beautiful china is manufactured, and
+drove through the Park of St. Cloud, the palace being in sight.
+
+On our return, we drove leisurely through the Bois de Boulogne. These
+woods afford a fine opportunity to the Parisians for exercise, either on
+horseback or in carriages, and it is to Paris what Hyde Park is to
+London and the avenues are to New York, and much pleasanter than either.
+Here have been fought most of the duels which, in other days, have been
+so numerous in Paris, but which, I am glad to say, are getting into
+disrepute. The boys will write you before we leave Paris.
+
+Yours always,
+
+J.O.C.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 49.
+
+
+PARIS.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+Our stay here at our present visit will be several days longer than we
+expected. We have to get clothing and various articles which can be
+obtained here to more advantage than in England or at home. We have been
+to some large jewelry establishments and made selections of presents for
+our absent but remembered friends. One morning we spent very pleasantly
+at a celebrated depot of glass manufactures. The display was very large,
+and also brilliant, and we made some pretty selections. The taste of the
+French is very great, and a large part of this population must live by
+furnishing the rest of the world with mere matters of _bijouterie_.
+
+We have had the pleasure to meet several of the doctor's acquaintances
+from America; and among others whom we have often met have been Rev. Dr.
+Alexander, Rev. Dr. Ritchie, Hon. H.J. Raymond, Mr. G.P. Putnam, Mr.
+Bunting, Mr. Herring, Mr. Howard, &c. I have been much gratified in
+getting acquainted with Mr. Raymond, whom I have met several times. He
+is quite a young-looking man for one who holds his important position of
+speaker of the New York House of Assembly. I should not think him to be
+more than twenty-six or twenty-seven, though perhaps he is thirty. Mr.
+Putnam is the author of my favorite book, "The World's Progress,"--the
+book of dates,--and one which I recommend you, Charley, always to keep
+on your table, within reach, for reference.
+
+If I live to return home, I have much to do that never before appeared
+to me of so great importance. I want to become thoroughly conversant
+with English and French history; for, in a certain sense, these
+countries embody the history of the world. Not to know what happened
+before we were born, is always to be children; and if my journey has
+done me no other good, it has very clearly shown me how little I know,
+and how very much I ought to understand, and must, if I would take my
+place among intelligent, well-educated men. I am sure, too, that I have
+acquired on this journey a desire to make improvement. Every where I
+find the records of intellect and genius, and I cannot, for very shame,
+be willing to go through life and enjoy the means of improvement,
+without deriving profit. We have met with very kind attentions from Mr.
+Hector Bossange, the great bookseller, who invited us to dinner. He is a
+gentleman of great activity, and seems always engaged; and yet I have
+noticed that such persons seem to have time for every one and every
+thing. I have noticed this at home, as well as abroad. Some of these men
+who have so much to do, and so many persons to see and be polite to,
+must work very hard at times, or else they understand the way to get
+through business in a patent method. These busy men seem to have read
+every thing; and even in new books they keep up with the times. They
+must do it, I guess, by remembering our old copy, that "spare minutes
+are the golden sands of life."
+
+George is going to stay here for four or five months, and the doctor is
+busy in finding him a suitable home and getting him an outfit.
+
+You would perhaps like to hear a little about the Hospital des
+Invalides, where the old soldiers of France bring up when past labor. It
+is a vast building, and covers sixteen acres, which, however, enclose
+fifteen various courts. It is governed and managed by the senior marshal
+of France, a lieutenant general, commandant of the hotel, a colonel
+major, three adjutant majors, three sub-adjutant majors, one almoner,
+two chaplains, one apothecary and ten assistants, twenty-six sisters of
+charity, and two hundred and sixty servants. There are about one hundred
+and seventy officers, and about three thousand fire hundred invalids in
+all. This is a truly magnificent building, both architecturally
+considered and in its interior arrangements. The council chamber is very
+fine, and here are some admirable portraits and the best statue of
+Napoleon that is extant. The dome is very grand, but is at present
+invisible, on account of the alterations going on to complete the tomb
+of Napoleon. This will be the grandest tomb, probably, in the world. The
+sarcophagus is to rest on a platform, to which the access is by steps of
+green marble.
+
+[Illustration: Sarcophagus at Napoleon's Tomb, and Key]
+
+Here is a good library and some MSS. of the two prime ministers, Sully
+and Colbert; a good picture of Napoleon and Louis Philippe; the cannon
+ball which killed Marshal Turenne, and his equestrian statue in gold and
+silver.
+
+My favorite stroll here is in the Garden of the Tuileries. I am never
+weary of this place. Here are the finest flowers, the best walks, the
+gayest company, the prettiest children, and the densest shade, if you
+please to go into it, in Paris. Then, too, there are groups of statuary,
+and fountains with lofty jet, and proud swans in the reservoirs. I
+would like to have you walking in that thick forest growth; there is no
+underbrush; I can see from one side to the other. After a long walk, you
+come to the noble portals, guarded by lions couchant, and just beyond is
+the spot where Louis XVI. was guillotined. I do not believe there is a
+nobler view in Europe than now opens to the spectator. There before me
+is the Obelisk of Luxor, which was brought from Egypt, and now stands in
+the Place de la Concorde, its history, its removal, its present
+position, all serve to delight me. In itself it is a noble object, and
+my eye ever rests on it with pleasure.
+
+Just think, Charley, that you are at my side: turn round, and look at
+the gardens we have left. There, see the long, low Tuileries, the palace
+of the Bourbons, the home of Napoleon, the residence of the citizen
+king, and now the Palace National. Off to the right is the Seine and its
+long line of quays; here is the bridge; and just across it is the
+Chamber of the Assembly, with twelve Corinthian columns, I like this
+building exceedingly. To our left is a long, stately range, known as the
+Rue Rivoli, in which we reside; it has an arched arcade in front; for
+foot passengers, and some hundreds of columns to support and adorn it.
+At this end of it are public offices. Now turn and look at our left; and
+see, a street cuts through this noble row, and at its end you see the
+pride of the city, the Madeleine. There it is, all white, and its
+stately columns tell of Greece. Now, if you turn your back upon the
+Tuileries, you will gaze upon the open space of the Champs Elysees, and
+look down along through that splendid avenue, and there see the finest
+thing in France--Bonaparte's triumphal arch. One word about this arch.
+It is the work of the emperor, who ordered its erection in 1806, when
+the foundation was laid. In 1814 it was suspended, but in 1823 it was
+resumed in honor of the Duke d'Angouleme's victories in Spain. In 1830
+its original intention was adopted, and in 1836 it was completed, and
+its cost was nearly eleven millions of francs. It is a vast arch, ninety
+feet high and forty-five feet wide, with entablature and attic. Its
+total height is one hundred and fifty-two feet, breadth one hundred and
+thirty-seven feet, depth sixty-eight feet. On the fronts are colossal
+groups, in which the figures are eighteen feet. All these are
+historical, and tell of the great man in his fields of glory. You ascend
+this wonderful work of art by two hundred and sixty steps, and get the
+best view of Paris. Close by is the Hippodrome, of which some of us have
+told you, I suppose, during our last visit.
+
+At less than a mile from this place is the Chapel of St. Ferdinand,
+built on the spot where the Duke of Orleans died, by a fall from his
+carriage, in 1842. It is a small building of stone, fifty feet long, and
+is of Gothic style. Here are many interesting objects--the marble group
+descriptive of the dying prince, and at his head an angel in
+supplication; this angel was the sculpture of his sister, the Princess
+Marie. The painted windows are exquisite representations of the patron
+saints of the royal family. Behind the altar is the room in which the
+duke died, now used as the sacristy of the chapel. Here, too, is a
+picture of the death bed. I am glad that I saw this, as the rest of the
+party were not able to be there.
+
+The great National Library is in the Rue Vivienne. The building is a
+dark-looking affair, five hundred and forty feet long and one hundred
+and thirty feet wide. Inside is a court three hundred feet by ninety,
+and that is flanked with buildings. The library is in five sections:
+first, manuscripts; second, printed books; third, engravings; fourth;
+medals, &c.; fifth, marbles. Perhaps the best collection of early
+printing that Europe can show is in this place. You will be surprised
+when I tell you that there are here one million five hundred thousand
+works. I cannot attempt to tell you the curiosities that are to be seen
+here--gems, cameos, antiques, swords, armors, models, portraits, busts;
+and then, as for autographs, why, a collector could not fail to break
+the tenth commandment when he looked at the letters of this collection
+in glass cases. The engravings alone are a study for months.
+
+I have to see my tailor, Mr. Woodman, who is a capital one; and then I
+must go to Forr, the boot-maker, of whom let me tell you a story. The
+doctor went to be measured, when we first arrived, and the man told him
+it was not necessary, as he had his measure. "How so?" he inquired.
+"Why, sir," replied the man, "I remember you fifteen years ago, at the
+Hotel Windsor;" and taking down his book, showed him his name, number of
+his room, &c. This I think a pretty considerable proof of memory, and
+equal to what we are told of some of our American landlords, who are
+said never to forget a face.
+
+These engagements discharged, and I am ready to pack up. We all feel sad
+at leaving George, who has been a kind and amiable companion; but we
+hope soon to see him again.
+
+Let me tell you that we are to have a new teacher. Dr. C. has engaged M.
+Oudin, a graduate of the University of Paris, to return with us. This
+gentleman is married; and we are all pleased with him and expect, of
+course, to profit under his instructions.
+
+M. Oudin has taken us to see a very curious manufactory of fruits,
+fishes, &c. They certainly are lifelike. Then, too, there is a branch
+of this establishment devoted to the preparation of medical
+representations of disease, and the skill exhibited is very great. Our
+next letter will, I fancy, be from Old England. I feel sad at leaving
+France, for I do like her capital; and then I cannot help a fear that
+she has dark days not very far off. She talks of liberty at all her
+corners, but she seems to have none in her conduct of the daily press.
+There are too many soldiers here to please an American. At home we have
+all the blessings of government, and do not see the machinery. We have
+no soldiers to keep us moving along. I shall always think with pleasure
+of our month in this city; and if I ever come again, I have work chalked
+out for three months, at least.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+JAMES.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 50.
+
+
+LONDON.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+We had a pleasant time from Paris to Calais; and here we determined to
+pass a day, and look at a city which has been so celebrated both in the
+history of France and England. We put up at Quillac's. The population is
+about thirteen thousand. The town is strongly fortified, and has very
+few external attractions. The gate built by Richelieu in 1685, and
+delineated by Hogarth, still stands. You know that England held this
+town from 1347 to 1558; and, as a result, you can find several specimens
+of English Tudor architecture, especially the Hotel de Guise. The walks
+upon the fortifications are fine, and afford commanding views of the
+cliffs of the south coast of England. The place generally has some three
+or four thousand English, many of whom are refugees on account of debt.
+At eleven at night we went on board a French steamer for Dover; and the
+_instant_ that she got outside the pier, she jumped like a mad thing. O,
+Charley, that was a horrid night! We were all sick, very sick indeed. It
+took us about three hours to get over, and we were thankful to land and
+take refuge for three or four hours in the quiet of our bedrooms. At
+eight we took the cars for London, and were at the Golden Cross, quietly
+settled down in our old quarters, by twelve o'clock. I ought to tell you
+that we hurried over in order to be here at the great entertainment
+which Mr. George Peabody gives to his excellency Abbott Lawrence and his
+lady, on the evening of the 4th of July. We were invited, and felt
+anxious to be there; as, in addition to the other notable characters,
+"the duke" was to be present. All that day the subject of the evening
+was the great topic with Americans; and as more than nine hundred
+acceptances were received to invitations issued, it was expected that
+the party would be interesting, and that many, who failed to obtain
+tickets, would be disappointed. The entertainment was given at Almack's,
+Willis's Room, St. James's, and upon a scale of great magnificence. It
+consisted of a concert at half past nine, a ball at eleven, and supper
+at one. The idea of celebrating our national independence in London,
+under the peculiar circumstances which London presents at this moment,
+was a happy one; and though some wise men doubted the wisdom of the
+measure, yet the result proved the prudence and practical good sense of
+its originator; and perhaps few men possess more of this admirable
+quality than Mr. Peabody. The rooms at Almack's are very spacious, so
+that there was ample space for the one thousand who proved to be
+present. At one end of the room were seen the portraits of the queen and
+Washington, surrounded by the flags of England and the United States;
+and around were placed busts of her majesty, Washington, Prince Albert,
+Franklin, Webster, and other celebrated men of both countries. Each lady
+was presented, on her entrance, with a fine bouquet. At half past nine
+the seats for the concert were entirely filled. The _programme de
+concert_ was as follows:--
+
+     CONDUCTOR, SIGNOR ALARY.
+
+     PARTE PRIMA.
+
+     GLEE,      Messrs. Lee, Geuge, Hill, Smith, and Howe.
+
+     DUO,       "Al perigli."         {Signor Gardoni,    }
+                                      {Signor F. Lablache,}  _Donizetti_.
+
+     SOLO,      Violin.                Signor Sivori,        _Sivori_.
+
+     MELODIE,   "Jusqu'a toi."         Signor Gardoni        _Schubert_.
+
+     ARIA,      "Non piu audrai."      Signor Lablache,      _Mozart_.
+
+     ROMANCE,   "Ah, mon fils."        Miss C. Hayes,        _Meyerbeer_.
+
+     DUO,       "Ah t inebria nell'   {Ma'mselle Cruvelli,}
+                  amplesso."          {Signor Gardoni,    }  _Verdi_.
+
+
+     PARTE SECUNDA.
+
+     TRIO,      "Qual volutta."      {Miss Hayes,     }
+                                     {Signor Gardoni, }
+                                     {Signor Lablache,}      _Verdi_.
+
+     ARIA,      "Nel dolce incanto."  Mademoiselle Cruveli   _De Beriot_.
+
+     SOLO,      Violin.               Signor Sivori,         _Sivori_.
+
+     SERENADE,  "Qual Suon."         {Miss C. Hayes, }
+                                     {Signor Gardoni,}       _Alary_.
+
+     DUO,       "Un Segreta."        {Signor Lablache,}
+                                     {F. Lablache,}          _Rossini_.
+
+     TRIO,      "Zitti, Zitti."      {Miss C. Hayes,  }
+                                     {Signor Gardoni, }
+                                     {Signor Lablache,}      _Rossini_.
+
+        PIANO FORTE,                  Signor Alary.
+
+The glees and madrigals were by the first-named artists; and the pieces
+were, "Spring's Delight," "Come, let us join the Roundelay," "Foresters
+sound the cheerful Horn," and "The Winds whistle cold."
+
+The band for the ball was Coote & Tinney's. The concert was very fine. I
+was most pleased with Miss Hayes,--and next with Lablache, whose voice
+is the finest I ever heard. The duke came just at the close of the
+concert, as the seats were being removed for the dancing. Mr. Peabody
+met him in the reception-room, and led him to the upper end of the
+ball-room, where he was cordially greeted by Mr. and Mrs. Lawrence. The
+band struck up, "See, the conquering hero comes," and I really felt that
+such a reception to such a man, and under such circumstances, was
+something for an American boy to see; and, if I live thirty or forty
+years, it will be something to tell about. There were but few
+comparatively who danced. The company were in groups, in the different
+rooms, taking refreshments. At one, supper was announced on the ground
+floor of the house; and here the press was felt to be greater than up
+stairs. The tables were most gorgeously laid out with every delicacy
+that unlimited outlay of expense could secure. Perhaps you would like to
+know some of the company who were present, belonging to England, and who
+certainly were present for the first time to celebrate the anniversary
+of American independence. There were the Duke of Wellington, Marquises
+of Ely and Clanricarde, Lord Glenelg, Lord Charles Manners, Lord Charles
+Russell, Lord Mayor of London and Lady Mayoress, Viscount Canning, Lord
+and Lady Dormer, Lord Hill, Lord Stuart, Baron and Lady Alderson, the
+Chancellor of the Exchequer, and Lady Mary Wood; Mr. Justice and Lady
+Coleridge, the Governor of the Bank of England, Joseph Hume, M.P., and
+family, Lady Morgan, Miss Burdett Coutts, Admiral Watkins, the Countess
+of Eglinton, Countess Powlett, Lady Talbot Mala hide, and a very long
+_et cetera_. Mr. Peabody could not have served his country better than
+by affording an opportunity for the great and distinguished of England
+to meet a large party of his countrymen on an occasion dear to
+Americans, and especially dear when they are far away from their
+country, and feel that, under the broad flag of the stars and stripes
+they are every where as safe as if they were in New York or Boston. It
+was very clear that hostile feeling had ceased, and that the great
+Anglo-Saxon family can now meet any where and display the brotherhood
+which they ought ever to feel. Such a meeting could not have taken place
+twenty years ago; and perhaps this beautiful demonstration would never
+have been afforded, if the thought had not presented itself to our host,
+who had the means to carry out the idea with a nobleness that did honor
+to himself and his country. We left the rooms on a bright, starlight
+morning, just as day was opening her eye, and were soon comfortably
+housed at our pleasant home. I write in haste, for we have much to do
+before we leave London.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+JAMES.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 51.
+
+
+LONDON.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+We have had one of the most agreeable days that I have spent in England.
+We received a kind invitation from his excellency Baron Vanderweyer, the
+Belgian minister, to attend a party given by his lady to the young
+nobility. The invitations were for five o'clock. We found the finest
+collection of children and young people, from about four years old up to
+sixteen, that I ever saw gathered together. I should think there were
+two hundred and fifty. More beautiful children cannot probably be found;
+and they were dressed in fine taste, and some very richly. One little
+fellow, about six years old, was, I think, the noblest-looking boy my
+eyes ever rested upon. Dr. C. inquired of two or three persons whom he
+knew, who the lad was; and just then an elegant and fashionable-looking
+lady expressed how much she felt flattered by the kind things said of
+the little fellow, and told him that it was her son, the eldest son of
+the Marquis of O----d, and then called him out of the dance, and
+introduced the little Lord Ossory to him. Among the illustrious
+juveniles was the future Duke of Wellington, and grandson of the Iron
+Duke. He is now about four or five years old. I think the sight was one
+of the prettiest I ever had the pleasure to witness. A few of the
+parents and older friends of the children were present; and in the
+company was Mr. Bates, whose kindness to us has been very great.
+
+One evening this week Dr. Choules preached at Craven Chapel, near Regent
+Street, where he had been requested to speak about America, and he took
+up Education--the voluntary principle--and Slavery. On the last topic he
+gave some truths that were probably very unpalatable. He stated that the
+good people here knew next to nothing of the subject; that its treatment
+amongst us could not be suffered by strangers; and that all interference
+with it by this nation was as impolitic, and in as bad taste, as it
+would be for an American to visit England and commence a crusade against
+the expenditures of the royal household, as a crying sin, while there
+was misery among the masses in many parts of the kingdom. He spoke of
+the extreme prejudice which he had met upon the subject, and the
+rudeness's into which he had found men fall, who seemed to have
+forgotten every courtesy of life. He gave them many facts, which, though
+perfectly correct, yet he said he supposed would be interpreted as a
+special plea on behalf of slavery--although nothing could be more
+untrue. The prejudice existing here is amusing. They seem to take it for
+granted that every American raises cotton, sugar, and tobacco, and,
+therefore, is a slaveholder. However, I find most persons of candor
+ready to acknowledge that it is questionable whether any good can
+possibly result from sending English agents to agitate the slavery
+question in the United States.
+
+There are a great many things which we have seen in London that are less
+worthy of note than those we have written you about, and yet in
+themselves are very useful and interesting; and we hope the remembrance
+of them will be of service to us hereafter. I have been much struck with
+the prevalence of the same names in the streets as those which are so
+familiar to me on our signs and boards. We have most clearly a common
+origin, and there are no two nations in the world between whom there is
+of necessity so much sympathy on all great questions.
+
+We have visited the exhibition several times since our return, with
+fresh pleasure on every occasion. In point of show and splendor, we are
+doing little in competition with the English, French and Belgian
+exhibitors; but we have a wonderful deal here that proves Jonathan to be
+a smart chap at invention, and no slouch at labor-saving operations. We
+cannot afford to spend the labor of freemen, who own their houses and
+farms and gardens, upon single pieces of furniture that would take six
+months to complete. Our time is too valuable for this. The pauper labor
+of Europe will, I hope, long continue to be cheaper, than the toil of
+American mechanics. I do not want to see a man working for thirty cents
+a day. The people of England must laugh in their sleeves when they see
+every steamer bringing out our specie from America, and when they see us
+sacrificing our true interests to aid the destructive policy of free
+trade. I have never thought so much about the tariff as since I have
+been here, and I am now convinced that we ought to give suitable
+encouragement to all kinds of manufactures in our country, and so afford
+a regular market for the products of the agriculturist. The English
+agents that flood our country are placing the land under a constant
+drain; and our specie must go abroad, instead of circulating at home. It
+is only in times of great scarcity that England will want much of our
+wheat or corn; and the English very freely avow that they hope to be
+able, ere long, to get their cotton from the East. It seems to me that
+our Southern States will need their New England constant market, and
+that our true policy is to take care of ourselves. Certainly there is a
+great variety of opinion here about free trade, and I hear gentlemen
+debate strongly against it. The reciprocity of England is a queer thing.
+All this yarn, Charley, grows naturally out of my starting-point about
+the exhibition.
+
+We go to-night to Bristol, to visit our kind friends once more; thence
+we run into South Wales, and afterwards set our faces homeward.
+
+Yours, &c.,
+
+WELD.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 52.
+
+
+BRISTOL
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+We have been here with the doctor's friends for several days, and had a
+most delightful time. Nothing can be more kind than their attentions to
+us; and the young men--I wish you knew them--have been constantly doing
+every thing in their power to make our visit here agreeable.
+
+We were glad to find Mr. W---- recovering from his accident; and as the
+family were at Western Super Mare, a watering-place about seven miles
+off, for his health, we went and passed a couple of days with them. This
+place is on the banks of the Bristol Channel; the air is thought to be
+the finest on the western coast of England, and is, we thought, very
+much like our Newport air. When the tide is in the scenery is pretty,
+and the Welsh hills; at sunset are beautiful. Off in the Bristol Channel
+are two islands, called the Flat and Steep Holmes.
+
+The houses here are neat, and the best are lodging-houses. Some of the
+rows are very pretty, and are sufficiently cosy to accommodate small
+families.
+
+The true way to enjoy the seaside is to have your own snug quarters.
+Here the people are wise enough to build close to the sea, and rows of
+houses are found all round the bay.
+
+We had a charming ride to a lofty hill, about two miles off, and the
+prospect was very fine.
+
+Here, as on the continent, we found large numbers of donkeys, with
+drivers, and ladies use them in their little excursions; and many of
+them are attached to Bath chairs, a small gig, and a very comfortable
+conveyance, too, as we proved. The vehicle is made for one person.
+
+I cannot say much for the bathing, which is greatly admired here, but
+was far too muddy for our taste, after an acquaintance with the noble
+beach at home.
+
+The museum of the Baptist College in Bristol is very fine, and the
+library is large and one of great value. The collection of Bibles is the
+best in the kingdom, and here is the only copy of Tindal's New
+Testament. The miniature of Oliver Cromwell, by Cooper, is valuable, and
+has been often engraved.
+
+We have several times attended worship at a very beautiful Gothic chapel
+at Bristol, called Highbury Chapel. It is a perfect gem, built in the
+Gothic style of the fifteenth century. The edifice is of stone, the
+roof and wood-work of oak, the pulpit freestone, and over it is a fine
+painted window. It is one of the prettiest churches we have seen in
+England; and what gives great interest to the building is the fact that
+it stands upon the spot where five martyrs were burnt, in the days of
+Popery, when Queen Mary was on the throne. This burning of Protestants
+only happens when Catholics have power; they do not advocate the measure
+in America, although their boast is that their system knows no change.
+Inquisitions and martyrs' fires are the adult growth of Popery. If I
+wanted to know how liberal institutions worked, I would look at them
+where they were established and flourished without hinderance; and if I
+wanted to know what Popery is, I would go and look at it in its proper
+territories--Spain, Italy, and Austria. There Popery is intolerant. In
+France the wings of Romanism are clipped; and if the patronage of the
+state were withdrawn, as very likely it may before long, the crumbling
+edifice would fall.
+
+The Rev. Mr. Thomas, the pastor of Highbury Chapel, is a man of superior
+intellect, and we heard a very fine sermon from him.
+
+I never was in a place where there are so many local charities as I find
+at Bristol. Every ailment of man seems here to be provided with its
+needed cure; and as for orphan asylums and refuges for the aged, blind,
+strangers, &c., they are every where to be found. The Infirmary is a
+noble institution, and always has two hundred patients in the wards; two
+thousand were received last year, and eight thousand out-door cases
+received treatment. A refuge for the houseless poor, opened in winter at
+eight o'clock, and supported by subscription, has been very useful. I
+think there are at least thirty different almshouses for the aged and
+indigent of both sexes; and some of these places are as neat as any
+thing can be, as to their accommodation.
+
+We like Bristol--its fine old houses, its streets, that tell so plainly
+of other days, its beautiful environs, and its generous citizens. I wish
+you could see the prospect from the drawing-room window at a house where
+we have often visited, and always with pleasure. The house stands on a
+very high hill; the drawing-room has a large bay window, and outside a
+balcony. You look down into a charming garden, with fine trees and
+fountains,--the ground being on a great declivity, I should think a
+slope of fifty degrees,--and then from the balcony you have the entire
+city laid out before you, down, down in the valley; while before you,
+and on either hand, stretch away the hills which adorn this noble city.
+The towers and steeples of the glorious old churches make the prospect,
+of a fine, clear summer evening, one never to be forgotten. Go where I
+may, that room, and the kind faces of those who meet in it will often
+rise in memory.
+
+I have never had my feelings so enlisted by strangers as at Bristol; and
+we all feel quite at home here.
+
+We are to go off to-morrow on an excursion to Monmouthshire, and see
+Chepstow, Tintern Abbey, and Ragland Castle, and expect that this last
+of our wanderings will be very gratifying.
+
+I have not told you how much we have enjoyed the fruit in England and on
+the continent. Cherries and strawberries have been daily on our tables,
+and of the best kinds. I do not think we ever enjoyed a fruit season so
+much as this summer. In this humid climate the strawberry grows to an
+immense size; and the gooseberry, which is here in high favor, is a far
+finer fruit than with us.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+JAMES.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 53.
+
+
+BRISTOL.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+Let me tell you of a charming trip which we have had this week to
+Chepstow Castle and its neighborhood. We have told you all about the
+beautiful scenery of Clifton, and the Hot Wells at this place, and the
+fine old rooks. Well, now we took passage in a little steamer, and went
+down the Avon between these lofty rocks, and had a new and enlarged view
+of this wondrous formation. The boat was well filled with tourists, as
+this is a fashionable trip. The Avon for four miles is quite Rhenish in
+its aspect; and one or two old castled towers on its crags afford a sort
+of reminiscence of what we lately saw on the river of rivers.
+
+We soon got out of the Avon into King Road, and there met the tide
+setting strongly from the Severn--a large river, which divides
+Monmouthshire from Gloucestershire. We then stretched across the
+estuary, and were in the Wye--one of the most romantic rivers in the
+country, the scenery of which will occupy much of this letter.
+
+After going up the river a little way, we saw a town upon the left bank
+and a noble castle. This is Chepstow. It is finely ensconced in a
+hollow. The town is irregular, and depends for its prosperity on its
+commerce. The castle is really a noble ruin and crowns a high bluff
+which rises from the river. I do not know how any one can ask for a
+lovelier landscape than is opened to the view off the bridge which spans
+the river.
+
+The castle was built by a relation of William the Conqueror. Its style
+is Norman, with more modern additions. The tide rises here to an
+elevation of from fifty to sixty feet. This is owing to rooks which
+stretch into the Severn near the mouth of the Wye, and, by hindering the
+tide, turn it into this small river.
+
+On landing, we engaged a carriage and pair of horses for the excursion,
+and were soon off. We stopped for lunch at St. Arvan's, a village one
+mile off, and a beautiful place it is--a perfect gem of a country
+street. But the glorious scenery of the region calls off attention from
+the modest hamlet. How I should like, as in my boyish days, to make
+head-quarters here for a week, and then strike out for daily
+explorations.
+
+We passed by the fine mansion at Piercefield, and devoted our time to
+the glorious points of natural scenery on the banks of this most
+charming stream--for Americans can hardly call it a river. We walked now
+about two miles through an oak wood, in which is a sprinkling of ash and
+elm, till we came to the very edge of a cliff called the "Lover's Leap."
+It overhangs an awful abyss, the depth of which is softened down by the
+woods which cover the neighboring rooks. A little off from this we came
+to the famous Wynd Cliff. Its summit is fringed with wood, and covers
+its declivities down to the river. To describe the scenery, my dear boy,
+from this spot, is quite beyond my ability. I wish that Sir Walter Scott
+had attempted it, and made this region the scene of one of his
+beautiful creations. From this spot you see all the course of the Wye,
+with its numerous sinuosities--in one place cutting out a few acres into
+a horse-shoe peninsula. As the eye follows down the river, you gaze on
+perpendicular, rocky cliffs, and can hardly persuade yourself that you
+do not look at the immense fortifications of a town. But that peaceful
+little peninsula at my feet; it is called Llanicut. Such a farm! such
+elms! all forming a landscape unrivalled. But look beyond the Wye, and,
+just away there, is the noble Severn. Ay, that is a river. There it
+rolls and foams down through the rich county of Gloucestershire, and
+empties into the Bristol Channel. Then away, beyond to the right are the
+bold, swelling hills of Somersetshire. I cannot but wish that Claude had
+seen the Wye and Severn; the noblest of his pictures would have been
+illustrative of this region.
+
+When we had sufficiently delighted ourselves with the far-spread scene,
+we descended by a winding path through the woods and down the almost
+perpendicular rock. The road was a very zigzag. We came down three
+hundred and sixty steps, and, passing a rustic bridge, entered a moss
+cottage, the small windows of painted glass, the table the base of a
+mighty oak, sawn off and polished. The walls are lined with moss. Here
+we got refreshments, and talked of those who had been here with us on
+former visits--some in America, others farther off; and yet perhaps
+not; for we know not how, or where, some of our best friends exist; but
+we know and feel that they do greatly live.
+
+In approaching Tintern, we passed the iron works, which at night throw a
+solemn glow over the entire village. The cottages around are very humble
+residences. The inn is a small but cosy affair, and is not destitute of
+much real comfort. There is the abbey at the water side, and opposite
+the rocky hill bank and hanging wood. The access to the abbey is poor,
+but this is quite forgotten as you enter this glorious sanctuary of
+other days. There are few ancient edifices in Great Britain, now in
+ruins, which attract so much attention from the curious traveller as
+Tintern Abbey, on the Wye.
+
+The beauty of the river is proverbial, yet has never been adequately
+described; but the best idea of its diversified charms may be gathered
+from "Gilpin's Picturesque Scenery and Observations upon the Wye."
+
+Tintern was a Cistercian abbey, and was founded in 1131, by Walter de
+Clare, and dedicated to St. Mary on its completion in 1287. The dress of
+the Cistercians was a white cassock, with a narrow scapulary, and over
+that a black gown, when they went abroad, but a white one when they went
+to church. They were called white monks, from the color of their habit.
+
+The dimensions of this church are as follows: length, two hundred and
+twenty-eight feet, and the transept one hundred and fifty feet long;
+breadth of the aisles, each eighteen feet. There are in the sides ten
+arches; between each column fifteen feet, which is the span of the
+arches.
+
+The interior of this monastery presents the best specimen of Gothic
+architecture in England. The east window is a most magnificent affair,
+sixty-four feet high, and calls forth universal admiration. The very
+insignificant doorway was, no question, intended by the architect to
+form a strong contrast with the elevation of the roof. The abbey is
+cruciform; its ruins are perfect as to the grand outline; and I am sure
+we should like to pass the entire day within this venerable fane. The
+walls of the tower are seventy-two feet high, and covered with ivy,
+moss, and lichens, but show no indications of decay.
+
+Very few Americans visit this region; but I think that they can see
+nothing in England at all comparable to this ruin.
+
+Among the relics that are to be seen here is the effigy of a knight in
+chain mail, the remains of a virgin and child, and the head of a shaven
+friar. Here, too, are several monkish tombstones.
+
+We were obliged to resume our places in the carriage, and ride some
+twelve miles, in order to visit the finest baronial ruins in the
+kingdom. We reached the quiet little village of Ragland, and, putting
+up our horses, gave orders for dinner, and then repaired to the castle,
+which we found near by, crowning a slight eminence with its stately
+towers. We approached through a grove of truly venerable oaks and elms,
+and all at once we were at the warder's gate; and entering into the
+terrace, formerly the eastern court, a most splendid vision burst upon
+our sight. Here are three pentagonal towers, with machicolated
+battlements, and showing all the marks of war. This is the most perfect
+part of the ruin, and seems likely to stand for ages. The ivy clusters
+over the towers most gracefully. Off to the left, insulated by a moat,
+stands the remains of a tower, once the citadel. We advance through the
+Gothic portal into the second court, and here are shafts and arches, and
+grooves through which the portcullis used to present itself to the
+besiegers. Next is the paved court, where once were the men at arms with
+iron tread; now a velvet lawn is seen, and many a vigorous tree is
+spreading its roots. Here we get a fine view of the majestic window of
+the hall of state. Through an arch is the way to the kitchen. The
+fireplace has a span of thirteen feet, and is made of two stones. Then
+we come to the baron's hall, of noble dimensions. On the walls are the
+stone sculptured arms of the Marquis of Worcester. The chapel was a
+narrow room; and, nearly concealed by ivy, are two effigies. The
+south-west tower contained the apartments occupied by Charles I. after
+the battle of Naseby, in 1645. The grand terrace is in tolerable order,
+and you proceed to it by a bridge. We ascended the towers and gazed on
+majesty in ruins. We saw nothing on the continent finer than Ragland
+Castle. The prospect from the great tower is the finest that can be
+imagined, and I almost fear to tell you its extent.
+
+You may imagine that we felt unusually interested at this place, from
+the fact that here the Marquis of Worcester invented the steam engine.
+
+The castle was devastated by the parliamentary troops under Fairfax,
+having surrendered in 1646. The defence was gallant, but unavailing.
+
+The warder of the castle is a very gentlemanly man. He took us into his
+apartments in one of the towers, and we found that he was a very
+respectable amateur in painting. Some of his oil paintings were very
+creditable. An infant girl, of great beauty, his daughter, answered to
+the name of Blanche Castle May, and was the first-born child under that
+roof since its desolation.
+
+Here, as well as at Tintern Abbey, I obtained ivy roots for Mr. Hall,
+and hope to see them flourishing on the walls of his beautiful stone
+house in Rhode Island.
+
+We retired slowly from this romantic ruin, and at the hotel found an
+excellent dinner. One dish was fit for a king--sewen, young salmon, or a
+species of salmon, for there is much dispute among naturalists as to the
+identity of these fish. Any how, they are fine beyond any fish. They
+were about two and a quarter pounds each, and are so delicate that they
+do not well bear transportation.
+
+We returned to Chepstow that evening, having a fine ride through a new
+piece of scenery, and were quite ready for a sound night's rest. In the
+morning we looked at the castle in Chepstow, which is remarkably fine,
+and is of extreme antiquity; some of the arches of the castle chapel
+indicating clearly a Saxon origin. One of the priestly legends is that
+this chapel was built by Longinus, a Jew, and father of the soldier who
+pierced the side of Christ. This was the belief of the ancient
+population of this charming region.
+
+All around this town Roman coins are frequently turned up; and I
+obtained from a gentleman a very well-preserved Caesar silver coin, dug
+up a day or two before.
+
+This castle was for more than twenty years the prison home of Henry
+Marten, one of the regicides. He is buried in the parish church, and in
+the north transept is the following acrostical epitaph which he composed
+for his monument:--
+
+     Here, September 9, 1680,
+
+     was buried
+
+     A TRUE-BORN ENGLISHMAN,
+
+     Who in Berkshire was well known
+     To love his country's freedom 'bove his own;
+     But being immured full twenty year,
+     Had time to write, as doth appear.
+
+     HIS EPITAPH.
+
+     Here or elsewhere (all's one to you, to me)
+     Earth, air, or water gripes my ghostly dust
+     None know how soon to be by fire set free;
+     Reader, if you an old-tried rule will trust,
+     you will gladly do and suffer what you must.
+
+     My time was spent in serving you, and you,
+     And death's my pay, it seems, and welcome, too;
+     Revenge destroying but itself, while I
+     To birds of prey leave my old cage, and fly;
+     Examples preach t' the eye; care then, (mine says,)
+     Not how you end, but how you spend your days.
+
+Colonel Henry Marten was one of the noble assertors of English liberty
+who dared to oppose a weak, but cruel and capricious tyrant. If ever a
+monarch was a tyrant and despot, it was the first Charles. No American
+citizen who thinks that Patrick Henry, Samuel Adams, John Hancock,
+Thomas Jefferson, John Adams, and George Washington were praiseworthy
+for the resistance which they offered to the aggressions of George III.,
+can for one moment fail to reverence Eliot, Hampden, Marten, Whalley,
+Ludlow, Pym, and Cromwell for their noble opposition to Charles and his
+tormentor general, that incarnation of sanctimonious cruelty, Archbishop
+Laud. It is one of the signs that a "good time is coming" that public
+opinion in England, as well as in America, is fast setting in favor of
+Cromwell and his noble coadjutors. They opposed measures rather than
+men; and what proves that they were right in expelling the Stuarts from
+power is the fact that when, by infatuation, "the fated race" was
+restored, and again played over former pranks, the people had to oust
+the family in 1688, and thus by another national verdict confirm the
+wisdom and patriotism of the men who had formerly dared to teach a
+tyrant the rights of freemen. Marten was a noble spirit, but his morals
+were not as correct as those of his political associates.
+
+The game now played by the advocates of high church and state notions in
+England and America is to represent the republican party as illiterate
+and narrow minded. A viler falsehood was never sworn to at the Old
+Bailey. The leading men of the party who opposed the royal tyrant were
+scholars, and ripe ones. If any man doubts it, let him read their
+speeches, peruse their lives, and study their writings. Prynne did not
+lose his acquirements nor his brains when Charles and Laud cropped his
+ears, and, loving the sport, came back for a second harvest, and
+"grubbed out the stumps" remaining from the first operation. Read his
+folios, quartoes, and octavoes, and from one of these men estimate the
+others. If you want to know the real character of Cromwell and his
+party, as to their knowledge and love of good letters, look at the
+patronage which the government gave to learning. Owen was chancellor of
+Oxford, Milton and Thurlow were secretaries, and their friends were
+called into public life. Were these men barbarians and enemies to
+learning? The men who were educated at Oxford and Cambridge at this
+period were the ornaments of learning and religion for the next forty
+years. The day has gone by forever when Cromwell's name can be used as
+synonymous with fraud, ignorance, and hypocrisy. Kings and prelates may
+hate him, but a liberty-loving world will enshrine his character in the
+sanctuary of grateful hearts and faithful memories.
+
+After crossing the Severn at the old Passage, or Aust, where it is two
+miles wide, we took carriage to Bristol. This parish of Aust gave a
+church living to the immortal Wickliffe, who received the appointment
+from Edward III.
+
+The drive to the city was a rich enjoyment. Every acre is in the highest
+cultivation, and the charming villas of the merchant princes of Bristol
+make the eleven miles an entire garden scene.
+
+Four miles from the city we came to Henbury, regarded by the citizens as
+their finest suburban spot. It is indeed beautiful. There are here about
+a dozen exquisite cottages, built in 1811, by Mr. Harford, who lives in
+Blaize Castle. The founder's object was purely benevolent--to provide a
+comfortable asylum for aged females, who had income enough to support
+them, if only relieved from house rent. The forms of these cottages are
+all different, but they were the earliest specimens in our times of the
+adoption of the old Elizabethan style. They are perfect _bijoux_, and
+the taste displayed in the shrubberies is very great.
+
+Blaize Castle is a fine building, and surrounded by noble woods. The
+castle is a circle, flanked With three round towers.
+
+I ought not to omit that we had on this trip the pleasure of being
+accompanied by a gentleman from Bristol, whose taste and perfect
+knowledge of the ground afforded us much gratification. I allude, to Mr.
+Dix, author of "Pen and Ink Sketches," which formerly appeared in the
+Boston Atlas. Mr. Dix was with us at Windsor Castle, and when he heard
+from Weld French or George Vanderbilt that Robinson's birthday would
+occur shortly, he noted it, and sent James the following pretty lines,
+which reached him May 15th, in Paris. I think you will be pleased with
+them.
+
+
+TO JAMES A. ROBINSON.
+
+    When wandering neath old Windsor's towers
+    We laughed away the sunny hours,
+    You asked me for a simple rhyme;
+    So now accept this birthday chime.
+    No poet I--the "gift divine"
+    Ne'er was, and never will be, mine;
+    But take these couplets, which impart
+    The anxious wishes of my heart,
+    In place of more aspiring lay,
+    To greet you on your natal day.
+
+    Boy of that country of the brave,
+    Beyond the Atlantic's western wave,
+    I, dweller in the motherland,
+    A welcome give with heart and hand;
+    And on your birthday breathe a prayer
+    That you may every blessing share;
+    That your world journey may be blest
+    With all that may prepare you best
+    For the approaching eve of age--
+    The end of mortal pilgrimage.
+
+    Upon your brow of youthful bloom
+    I would not cast a shade of gloom;
+    Yet did I say that life will ever
+    Flow onward like a placid river,
+    With only sunshine on its breast,
+    That ne'er 'twill be by storms distressed,
+    I should but flatter to deceive,
+    And but a web of falsehood weave.
+    Yet, checkered though life's path may seem,
+    Life's pleasures are not _all_ a dream.
+
+    What shall I wish you? I would fain
+    That earthly greatness you may gain;
+    But if that guerdon is not sent,
+    Be with some humble lot content;
+    And let this truth be understood--
+    Few can be great, _all may_ be good.
+    Power, pomp, ambition, envy, pride,
+    Wrecked barks adown life's stream may glide,
+    Ruined by some fierce passion throe,
+    E'er, reckless, o'er Time's brink they go;
+    But if fair virtue grasps the helm,
+    Nor storm nor wave can overwhelm.
+
+    That many happy years be yours:
+    Seek truth which every good insures;
+    Press on, though clouds may intervene
+    And for a moment veil the scene.
+    Think of the great ones of your land,
+    And, like them, strive with heart and hand
+    To leave a name, when you depart,
+    Which shall be dear to many a heart.
+    Determine in life's early morn
+    All good to prize, all ill to scorn,
+    And aim to live and die as one
+    Worthy the land of Washington!
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+J.O.C.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 54.
+
+
+LIVERPOOL.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+Well, this looks like the back track; and here we are at the Adelphi,
+ready to take our passage in the noble Atlantic, which is as good as new
+again, and will sail on the twenty-third. We left Bristol with much
+regret, for we there have formed acquaintances which we shall often
+remember with affection and gratitude; and I wish we could meet them in
+America, and have an opportunity to reciprocate some of the many
+kindnesses we met with at their hands. We took the railroad for
+Cheltenham, and passed through some charming country before we reached
+the old city of Gloucester. On our left were the flint towers of
+Berkeley Castle, where the second Edward was so savagely murdered by his
+wife's command.
+
+Cheltenham is about forty miles from the city of Bristol, and we found
+it all that Dr. C. had described it--a very nice modern town indeed. It
+is like our Saratoga, but much more beautiful. The population is about
+thirty thousand, and the strangers who resort there in the season are
+probably five thousand more. The waters are in high repute, and are
+regarded as strongly cathartic. The buildings are very fine, and the
+entire air of the place is unlike any thing we have seen in England.
+Other places seem old. This is new, and looks fresh and American in that
+respect, but vastly more elegant and permanent than our towns usually
+are. We had very kind attentions here from the Rev. Mr. Gilby, the
+rector of the parish church, and who strongly urged us to stay over the
+day; but we resumed the cars, got to Birmingham at ten o'clock, and went
+to our old quarters at the Hen and Chickens. The next day we devoted to
+the survey of this vast toy shop. Our greatest gratification was at the
+royal _papier mache_ and japan works of Jennens & Bettridge. To this
+firm we had introductions, and we went through every department of the
+establishment. When we came to the show-rooms we were all tempted by the
+beauty of the finished wares, and made several purchases. Here, too, are
+other manufactories for pins and pens; but I must pass them by. We
+called on the Rev. John Angell James, who has lived here so long, and
+made a world-wide reputation. He looks very hearty and vigorous, and
+shows no signs of age. He has lived in his house forty-five years. We
+obtained his autograph. We also called on Rev. Mr. Swan, an old friend
+of the doctor in early days, and had a pleasant chat. Mr. Swan was once
+a professor in the college at Serampore, in India. He is full of life
+and animation; and it seems to me that people here are more vivacious
+and sprightly than with us--old folks and middle-aged ones certainly
+are. We took dinner with Mr. Vanwart, brother-in-law to Washington
+Irving, and shall not soon forget the elegant hospitality of his
+mansion. He resides about two miles from the town; and his lawn gave us
+a fine view of the English thrush and blackbird, of which birds there
+were plenty on the grass. It was so cold that we had to have fires,
+although the 19th of July. Mr. Vanwart was one of the saved, when the
+Atlantic was lost in the Sound, November 26, 1846; and he made the
+kindest inquiries after you and the family, and said that when he next
+visited America he should find you out. That evening we reached
+Liverpool, and had a quiet Sabbath, but a very stormy one. It rained
+harder than any day since we have been abroad. We attended church in the
+morning, and heard a very eloquent sermon from Mr. Birrel, and Dr. C.
+preached for him at night. The Europa arrived on this day, and we met
+friends from Boston--among others the Rev. Dr. Peck. On Monday we went
+to Chester, the finest old city in England, with a population of
+twenty-four thousand. It claims an antiquity equal to any city in the
+world; for they say it was founded by the grandson of Japhet, two
+hundred and forty years after the flood! Any how, it was great in Roman
+days--great in the days of Alfred. No town in the country has a more
+thorough history; and we have two very interesting octavoes filled with
+it, and richly illustrated with antique engravings. It is a walled city,
+and has undergone many sieges and blockades. The castle has great
+celebrity, and is of Norman origin. Its walls are one mile and three
+fourths in length, and there are four great gates. The bridge over the
+Dee has seven arches, and is as old as the Norman conquest. The
+cathedral was built in the days of Henry VII. and Henry VIII. It is
+composed of red stone, and has a fine front. The chapter-house in the
+cloisters is universally admired by antiquarians. We went into one very
+old church, which was undergoing restoration. The town, like Berne, has
+rows in front of the houses, supported by pillars so that, in shopping,
+you walk under covered galleries.
+
+We returned to Liverpool, and dined with a gentleman who has been very
+polite to us--Mr. Thomas Davies, a celebrated maker of gold watches.
+From him I obtained one, preferring an English to a Swiss timepiece.
+Here we saw the cultivation of plants in the house in greater perfection
+than I recollect elsewhere.
+
+To-morrow we are to take our departure; and, though very glad to return
+home, yet I feel sorry at leaving a country where there is so much that
+is excellent and noble and beautiful. I have learnt, certainly, that
+England and America have too much in common to justify the indulgence
+of hatred and prejudice; and I find the tone of feeling here, among wise
+and-good people, very kind towards America. I have rarely heard a
+reflection upon our country, excepting upon our slavery. That they _must
+talk_ about; and they are a little like the man who, having just got rid
+of the irritable affection supposed to trouble the North Britons, could
+not for his life help speaking of sulphur. An Englishman is sure to tell
+you that he is free from this sin--yes, washed, but scarcely dry.
+
+Our hotel is filling up with Americans, and, we expect to meet many
+friends on board the Atlantic. I am much pleased with the appearance of
+Captain West; he looks every inch an admiral. And now, my dear fellow, I
+shall see you, perhaps, before you read my letter; but I have kept my
+promise to tell you what we saw and did. Of course many things will
+occur to our memories when we get home, and will furnish matter for
+chitchat which I hope soon to have with you, as in days of old. Well,
+you are now at the business of life, and I am yet a little longer to
+spend my time in preparation for it. I wonder how we shall come out,
+Charley? But time will tell, and let us do our best.
+
+Yours affectionately,
+
+WELD.
+
+P.S. I must not forget to tell you that, while at Bristol, the doctor
+and I ran up to Windsor to see the royal agricultural exhibition, held
+this year in the Home Park. James stopped with our friends, and we were
+anxious to see the great show of England in her farming interest. The
+display was very great, and the cattle were wonderfully fine in all the
+departments--Durham, Hereford, Devons, and Channel Island. The last are
+very nice animals for a paddock, and give good milk. The horses were
+good; and I longed to bring home one or two that I saw, and felt
+strongly tempted. But the sheep and swine were the most remarkable
+things there. Really, we know little about sheep. They are monstrous,
+and yet very symmetrical and beautiful; whilst there are pigs, strange
+as you may think it, that have established high claims to beauty and
+perfection. I greatly preferred the Sussex breed to any other. Never was
+a town so crowded as this same Windsor. Thousands upon thousands were
+flocking into it; and how and where they fed I cannot divine. Money
+seemed useless, and waiters hardly looked at half crowns for retaining
+fees.
+
+
+
+
+Letter 55.
+
+
+NEW YORK, August 3,1851.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY:--
+
+We are, through the goodness of Providence, safely returned. We had a
+good voyage, in a capital ship, and under the charge of as good a
+captain as ever sailed the ocean. Our passengers were about one hundred
+and thirty in number, and very agreeable--some few were our old
+voyagers in the Arctic. With an exception or two, our way was as
+pleasant as it could have been; and there were some cheerful spirits
+that knew how to create sunshine at all hours. I cannot tell what
+travellers can desire in a steamer which they will not find in the
+Collins line. It seems to us that we have had the full worth of the
+money paid for passage. How different it is to come to New York in ten
+days, instead of being on the ocean for sixty-four days, as I have in a
+sailing packet! Well, this saving of time and feelings is worth the
+difference of the passage price. I am at a loss to understand how
+Americans who have to cross the ocean should think of supporting the
+English steamers in preference to our own superior ships. The influence
+of every English agent, of course, goes out in behalf of the old line;
+and all sorts of stories are told about winter passages, the importance
+of boats especially built for strength, and the advantages of
+experience. Now, the history of the American line is a perfect
+refutation of all this twaddle. The truth is, that all voyaging is
+connected with exposedness to some danger; and up to this moment the
+Americans have had, in all their ocean steam voyages, the full measure
+of success. They have lost no boat, they have sacrificed no lives, and
+they present a fleet of steamships the like of which the world cannot
+equal. Whenever an American citizen takes his passage in a foreign
+steamer, and an American one is at hand, he tacitly confesses the
+superiority of other lands, in ocean navigation, to his own country, and
+he contributes his full share to depress American enterprise, and aids
+so far as he can to insure its failure. The eyes of the English nation
+are upon our ships; and if we desire the spread of our national fame, we
+should, every man of us, labor to sustain our own steamers and
+propellers. And the government of our country should strenuously guard
+the interests of this available arm of national defence; and the country
+at large, would certainly sustain Congress in liberal support of this
+truly American enterprise.
+
+Perhaps, Charley, you are ready to say to us, "Well, what do you think,
+after all you have been seeing in other lands?". I reply: We think that
+we return home with all our hearts more warmly attached to our beloved
+land than when we left her shores. We have seen lands, as fair, and
+fields as fertile, as our own. We have seen monarchies and republics;
+but nowhere have we seen man as erect and self-respecting as at home.
+Here we have equal laws, civil and religious liberty, no bishop to
+intimidate a day laborer who prefers to pass by his cathedral gates and
+worship his Maker in a humbler temple. Here our streets are not labelled
+with "_Liberte, Egalite, Fraternite_," but the things signified are
+_known_ and _felt_ by every man that traverses these avenues of
+business. Here we have not thousands of armed men in this great city to
+preserve liberty; but every man enjoys it, and sees nothing of the
+government, which, though unseen, is all-powerful in the affections of
+the country.
+
+We come home grateful that we have such a country; and though we love
+and admire much, very much, in England, yet we rejoice that we can call
+the United States our land. We hope we are better prepared than before
+we started to do her service. I am quite satisfied, Charley, that God
+has not done for any other people what he has for us. We know nothing of
+the restless anxiety which depresses men in England as to the means of
+procuring the necessaries of life. We have our chief anxieties called
+out in reference to the obtaining the _luxuries_ and _embellishments_ of
+life; the _necessaries_ are almost certain to every man who has health
+and character. But in England, toil is poorly requited; and a father
+and husband may, after unremitting labor, have to find his refuge, and
+his only one, in that petition of the Lord's Prayer, which you and I
+never employed _in pure faith_, "Give me this day my daily bread." We
+_say so_; but _we know whence it is coming to us. He_ knows not; and
+what he knows not, he asks God after.
+
+A thoughtful and humane American cannot travel in Europe without having
+his sympathies daily called out in behalf of the sufferings of man. I am
+no apologist for slavery; I deeply lament its existence; but I believe
+that there is as much suffering in coal pits and manufacturing districts
+of England as in our southern slave states. In regard to England, I feel
+encouraged. In an absence of fifteen years I see marked improvement. Man
+is more respected, as man, than he once was; the masses are coming up;
+and the wealthy and the noble are more considerate. It is a great folly
+and a wickedness to think that the nobility of England are weak,
+vicious, unfeeling, proud, and self-indulgent. Some of the noblest
+characters of England are to be found in the peerage--men who "fear God
+and work righteousness." Their homes are often centres of diffusive
+blessedness; and were the nobility of England what too many here suppose
+them, the state could not last a twelvemonth. The queen is popular, and
+is clearly a woman of great tact. She would do at a crisis. Prince
+Albert is everything to her. He is a profoundly wise and prudent man,
+highly educated, and has very superior powers of mind. He is continually
+making speeches, but they are all marked by _adaptation_. I have never
+heard one disrespectful word uttered in England in regard to him. His
+labors for the exhibition, have been remarkable, and but for the prince
+the palace never would have been reared. England is happy indeed in
+having such a man to counsel and support the sovereign.
+
+Europe looks as though a storm were once more about to gather over her
+old battle fields. France is not in her true position. She would like to
+see her armies employed; and I shall not be surprised to hear of his
+holiness clearing out from Rome and seeking protection from Austria. If
+that happens, France will sustain liberal views in the Eternal City, and
+the contest will be severe.
+
+Popery has lost its hold upon the continent, and is seeking to regain
+its influence in England, and plant it in America. The people of England
+are Protestant to the heart's core. The folly of a few scholastics at
+Oxford has created all the hue and cry of Puseyism, and invigorated the
+hopes of Rome. These men at Oxford have poisoned the minds of a few of
+their pupils, and in the upper walks of life some sympathy is seen with
+views that seem at least semi-Papistical. But the great body of the
+people is sound. More than half the population is made up of dissenters
+and they, to a man, hate "the beast;" and there is about as much danger
+of Popery being established in England as there is of absolute monarchy
+being embraced as our form of government.
+
+Popery in America must spread by immigration. We have Ireland virtually
+in America; but here the Irish will gradually merge into Americans, and
+the power of the priesthood will be less and less regarded by their
+children. I have no apprehensions from the coming of Catholics to our
+country. Let them come, and we must get Bibles ready for them, and Bible
+readers to visit them, and schools to teach their children; and if
+cardinal, or archbishop, or priest tell us that Popery is the friend of
+science, and that it never persecuted genius, imprisoned learning, nor
+burnt God's saints, we will tell the deceiver that he lies in the face
+of God and man and the world's history.
+
+I am not, my dear fellow, uncharitable; a man may be better than his
+creed; and I believe that some priests who have sung the song of the
+mass will hereafter sing the song of Moses and the Lamb. But of Popery,
+_as it is seen in Italy, and Austria, and other parts of the old world,_
+I cannot but pronounce it a curse to the human family, a system all
+unworthy of God, and blasting to the happiness of man.
+
+The boys are in the enjoyment of health, and will soon see you. They
+have been constant sources of pleasure to me, by their thoughtful
+kindness and consideration; and nothing has transpired, to cause us to
+look back with pain on any part of our wanderings from home.
+
+Yours, very truly,
+
+JNO. O. CHOULES.
+
+
+To Mr. CHARLES W. DUSTAN,
+
+Stapleton; Staten Island, New York.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Young Americans Abroad, by Various
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