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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/20625-0.txt b/20625-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..96d8dc6 --- /dev/null +++ b/20625-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8924 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Young Americans Abroad, by Various + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Young Americans Abroad + Vacation in Europe: Travels in England, France, Holland, + Belgium, Prussia and Switzerland + +Author: Various + +Editor: J.O. Choules + +Release Date: February 19, 2007 [EBook #20625] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK YOUNG AMERICANS ABROAD *** + + + + +Produced by Frank van Drogen, Ralph Janke and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://dp.rastko.net, +from images generously made available by gallica +(Bibliothèque nationale de France) at http://gallica.bnf.fr. + + + + + +[Illustration: Cathedral Church of St. Gudule, Brussels] + + + + + YOUNG AMERICANS ABROAD; + + OR, + + VACATION IN EUROPE: + + TRAVELS + + IN ENGLAND, FRANCE, HOLLAND, BELGIUM, PRUSSIA + AND SWITZERLAND. + + With Illustrations. + + BOSTON: + GOULD AND LINCOLN, + + 89 WASHINGTON STREET. + 1852. + + + + + Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1851, by + + GOULD AND LINCOLN, + + In the Clerk's Office of the District Court + of the District of Massachusetts. + + + + + STEREOTYPED AT THE + BOSTON STEREOTYPE FOUNDRY + + + + + TO + + GEORGE SUMNER, ESQ., + + AS A + + SLIGHT TRIBUTE OF GRATITUDE + + FOR HIS KIND ATTENTIONS IN PARIS, + + AND IN + + ADMIRATION OF TALENTS DEVOTED TO THE INTERESTS OF + + FREEDOM, + + THESE LETTERS ARE RESPECTFULLY + + DEDICATED, + + BY HIS OBLIGED FRIENDS, + + THE AUTHORS. + + + + + LIST + + OF + + ILLUSTRATIONS. + + * * * * * + + I. FRONTISPIECE--CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF ST. + GUDULE, BRUSSELS. + + II. ICEBERGS SEEN FROM STEAMSHIP "ARCTIC," + APRIL 6, 1851, 24 + + III. PORTRAIT OF THOMAS CHATTERTON, 56 + + IV. PORTRAIT OF ROBERT SOUTHEY, 61 + + V. PORTRAIT OF SAMUEL TAYLOR COLERIDGE, 88 + + VI. VIEW OF ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL, LONDON, 148 + + VII. A FULL-LENGTH PORTRAIT OF DR. SAMUEL + JOHNSON, 150 + + VIII. VIEW OF THE POET'S CORNER, WESTMINSTER + ABBEY, 185 + + IX. VIEW OF THE COLONNE DE JUILLET, 196 + + X. VINTAGE OF THE RHINE, 275 + + XI. VIEW OF A SWISS COTTAGE, 305 + + XII. NAPOLEON'S SARCOPHAGUS, 324 + + + + +INTRODUCTION + + +One evening last winter a few private pupils were sitting in the study +of their instructor, when he stated his intention to pass the spring +vacation in Europe, and his wish to have two or three of his young +friends as his travelling companions. An earnest and joyous desire was +expressed by each lad to enjoy the gratification, and in the course of a +short period the arrangements were made which afforded him the pleasure +to assure three boys that they should accompany him. The ages of the +young travelers were twelve, fourteen, and sixteen. Their attention was +immediately directed to a course of reading adapted to prepare them for +the beneficial use of the proposed tour; and during its progress each +boy kept a journal, which was useful as a reference in the +correspondence kept up with friends and families at home. A companion in +study, left behind, and prevented by duty from joining the party, wished +to have constant advices of the movements of his friends; and the +letters of the young travellers to a lad of sixteen are, at the advice +of many friends, now submitted to the perusal of those at that age. No +similar work is known to the authors of these letters; and at the +forthcoming gift season it is hoped that the young of our country may be +amused and gratified by these reminiscences of other lands. + +J.O. CHOULES. + +NEWPORT, R.I., Nov. 25, 1851. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +LETTER I. + +Arrival at New York. + + +LETTER II. + +Going on board Steamer.--Arctic.--Weather.--Passengers.--Loss of Life +and Burial at Sea.--Icebergs.--Sabbath at Sea.--Land.--Excellence of +Collins Line.--Adelphi Hotel. + + +LETTER III. + +Liverpool; Its Public Buildings, Docks, &c. + + +LETTER IV. + +Birmingham.--Arrival in London.--Strand.--Temple Bar.--Fleet +Street.--London Exchange.--London Coffee House.--Omnibuses. + + +LETTER V. + +United States Minister in London.--His kind Attentions.--Crystal +Palace.--London of other Days.--Monument.--The Bridges. + + +LETTER VI. + +Villages.--Camberwel.--Accidents and Murders in England as common as in +America.--Greenwich Fair.--Gypsies. + + +LETTER VII. + +Great Western Railroad.--Swindon.--Bristol.--Scenes of early +Life.--Ancient City.--Clifton and Hot Wells.--Redcliffe +Church.--Chatterton. + + +LETTER VIII. + +Bristol Cathedral.--Monuments and +Inscriptions.--Butler.--Mason.--Southey.--Cloisters.--Mayor's +Chapel.--Dundry.--Vine Prospect.--School attended in Boyhood. + + +LETTER IX. + +Clifton.--Avon.--Hot Wells.--Vincent's Rocks.--Robert Hall.--Sublime +Scenery.--Leigh Court Picture Gallery. + +LETTER X + +Bath.--Royal Crescent.--Queen Square.--Cathedral.--Hot +Baths.--Bradford.--Trowbridge.--Devizes.--Cricket. + + +LETTER XI. + +Tower of London; its History.--Horse Armory.--Antiquities and +Curiosities.--Executions.--Regalia, &c. + + +LETTER XII. + +Thames Tunnel.--New Houses of Parliament.--House of Lords +described.--Fresco Paintings.--St. Stephen's Hall.--House of +Commons.--Westminster Hall; its Associations, festive and criminal. + + +LETTER XIII. + +British Museum; its fine Galleries, Pictures, Library, Autographs, and +MSS.--The Place to study.--Lord Campbell.--Servant who resorted to it. + + +LETTER XIV. + +Woolwich.--Naval Arsenal and Dock Yard.--Ships of War.--Yard.--Twenty +Thousand Cannon.--Greenwich.--Blackheath.--Lee Grove.--Golden Cross and +its Host.--Mr. Lawrence's Soirée.--Duke of Wellington. + + +LETTER XV. + +Exhibition.--Season Tickets.--Wet Weather.--One May fine.--City +Streets.--Throng around Palace.--Arrival of the Queen.--Opening +Scenes.--Procession, &c. + + +LETTER XVI. + +Fine Equipages.--Appearance of the Palace.--Walk through the +Exhibition.--American Contributions.--Greek Slave, &c.--Mediæval +Court.--Kohinoor Glass Window.--Austrian Furniture.--Amazon of +Kiss.--Crusaders.--Galleries.--Transept.--Glass Fountain.-- +Sculpture.--Veiled Vesta.--Machinery.--Models.--Model of +Liverpool.--Plate Glass.--Taunton Cabinet--Steam Power, &c. + + +LETTER XVII. + +Royal Polytechnic Institution.--Lectures.--Egyptian Hall.--Panorama of +Overland Route to California.--Exeter Hall Sermons.--Wyld's great +Globe.--Zoölogical Gardens.--Christ's Church Hospital; its Boys. + + +LETTER XVIII. + +Windsor Castle; its History.--Interior of the Palace.-- +Pictures.--Waterloo Chamber.--St. George's Chanel.--Royal +Tombs.--Edward IV.--Henry VIII.--Charles I., Discovery of his Body in +1813, Account of the Appearance, &c.--Terraces of the Castle.--Eton +College.--Datchett.--Great Park.--Long Walk.--Celebrated +Trees.--Virginia Water.--Cumberland Lodge.--Frogmore. + + +LETTER XIX. + +Sir John Soane's Museum, House, Antiquities, Pictures.--Hogarth's +"Rake's Progress," and the "Election."--Wonderful Economy of Room, +&c.--Greenwich; Hospital, Chapel, Paintings, and Statuary.--Queen's +Stables; Horses, Harness Room, State Carriage.--Soyer's Symposium; +Description of its Rooms.--Dinner there. + + +LETTER XX. + +The Temple Church and its historical Associations.--Steamboat on +Thames.--View of St. Paul's from River.--St. Paul's Cathedral; its +Dome.--Statues: Johnson, Howard, Reynolds, Heber, West, Nelson.--Ascent +of the Dome and Cross.--View of London. + + +LETTER XXI. + +Westminster Abbey.--Early History.--Associations.--Poet's +Corner.--Chapels.--Monuments and Effigies.--Coronation Chairs.--Stone +of Scone Statuary.--Sermon in Abbey by Lord John Thynne. + + +LETTER XXII. + +Hyde Park.--St. James's and Green Park.--Regent's Park.--Squares of +London.--Northumberland House.--Sion House.--St Margaret's Church.--St. +Martin's in-the-Fields. + + +LETTER XXIII. + +Mission House.--Lord Mayor's Day.--Royal Exchange.--Bank of +England.--London Docks.--Covent Garden Market. + + +LETTER XXIV. + +Rev. Dr. Murray.--Dover Castle.--Passage across the Channel.-- +Calais.--St. Omer.--Douai.--Arras.--Amiens.--Clermont.--Paris.-- +Hotel Windsor.--A Mistake, and Loss of a Dinner. + + +LETTER XXV. + +Gardens and Promenades.--Gayety.--Flowers.--Wrong Drawing-room.--Notre +Dame.--Interior.--Sacristy.--Robes and Relics.--Hotel de Ville.--Louvre +shut.--Paris by Moonlight. + + +LETTER XXVI. + +Palais Royal.--Garden.--Gay Scene.--Passage d'Orleans.--House opposite +to which Henry IV. was assassinated by Ravaillac.--Molière.--Marat and +Charlotte Corday.--Palace of the Luxembourg.--Paintings.--Gardens.-- +Statuary.--Chapel. + + +LETTER XXVII + +Hotel de Cluny; History, Associations, Interior, wonderful +Contents.--Julian's Palace of the Baths.--Mr. George Sumner.--Church +of St. Sulpice.--Statuary.--Ecclesiastical Fountain.--Bibliothèque St. +Geneviève.--Church of St. Etienne du Mont.--History.--Monuments of +Racine and Pascal.--Christening an Infant.--Church of St. Germain des +Pres, (oldest in Paris); its Restoration going on.--Tombs of Descartes, +Mabillon, Montfaucon, &c. + + +LETTER XXVIII. + +Jardin des Plantes; Situation, History.--Cedar of Lebanon and +Palm-trees.--Menagerie.--Cuvier.--Museum of Comparative Anatomy, +&c.--Paris owes much to Henry IV., Louis XIV., Napoleon, and Louis +Philippe.--Pont Neuf.--St. Bartholomew's Massacre.--Bastile.--Column. + + +LETTER XXIX. + +An amusing Fellow-countryman.--Père la Chaise.--Monuments.--Abattoir. +--Consul's Office; his numerous Calls. + + +LETTER XXX. + +Cirque.--Amusements.--Champs Elysées.--Hippodrome.--Arabs.--Sabbath +kept in Parlor. + + +LETTER XXXI. + +Pleasant Company.--Railroad to Brussels.--Jemappes.--Mons.--Brussels; +History.--Hotel de Ville.--Cathedral Church of St. Gudule; its +Monuments.--First Communion.--Park.--Palace.--Hon. Mr. Bayard. + + +LETTER XXXII. + +Lacework.--Money Matters.--An uncivil Banker.--Museum.--Paintings. +--Burgundian Library.--Manekin.--Botanical Garden. + + +LETTER XXXIII. + +Excursion to Waterloo.--Hongomont.--Relics.--Belgian Mound and +Lion.--Ivy from Waterloo for Mr. J.P. Hall.--Church.--King Leopold. + + +LETTER XXXIV. + +Laeken.--Vilvorde.--Mechlin, or Mallnes.--Antwerp; History.--Place +Verte.--Statue of Rubens.--Cathedral of Notre Dame.--Interior +Pulpit.--Pictures by Rubens.--Tower of the Church.--Quentin Matsys's +fine old Houses. + + +LETTER XXXV. + +St. James's Church.--Tomb of Rubens.--Paintings by Rubens and +Jordaens.--Vandyke.--Mount Calvary.--Monk of La Trappe.--Museum.--Chair +of Rubens; his Pictures.--Other great Works of Art.--St. Andrew's +Church.--Bourse.--Mr. Vesey, U.S. Consul. + + +LETTER XXXVI. + +Dock Yards at Antwerp.--Steamboat Passage on the Scheldt.--Dort.--Lost +Villages.--Bergen op Zoom.--Van Speyk.--Rotterdam.--Erasmus.--Delft. +--Hague.--Hon. George Folsom; his Kindness.--Scheveningen.--Museum. +--Japanese Curiosities.--Historical Curiosities.--Gallery of Pictures. +--Rembrandt, Paul Potter, Gerard Dow, &c.--King's Palace.--Brimenhoff. +--De Witt.--Bosch.--John Adams's House. + + +LETTER XXXVII. + +Dunes.--Leyden; History.--Harlem.--Church of St. Bavon; +Organ.--Coster.--Flower Gardens.--Palace of late King.--Picture +Gallery.--Exhibition of Pictures by living Artists.--Amsterdam. + + +LETTER XXXVIII. + +Mr. J.G. Schwartze.--Stadhuis.--Churches.--Jews.--Picture +Gallery.--Dutch School.--Columbus before the Council.--Artists' Club. + + +LETTER XXXIX. + +Utrecht.--Lobith.--Ruhrort.--Meet with Americans on Return from the +East.--Cologne; History.--Cathedral.--Three Kings.--Relics.--St. Peter's +Church.--Crucifixion of Peter, by Rubens.--Champagne for America. + + +LETTER XL. + +The +Rhine.--Bonn.--Drachenfels.--Godesberg.--Rolandseck.--Oberwinter. +--Okenfels.--Castle Reineck.--Neuwied.--A Raft.--Castle of +Sain.--Ehrenbreitstein.--Coblentz. + + +LETTER XLI. + +Coblentz.--The Moselle.--Excursion to Stolzenfels.--Curiosities.--Fine +View.--Boat up to Mayence.--The Brothers.--Rheinfels.--Lurley +Rock.--Seven Sisters.--Pfalz.--The Rheingau.--Falkenberg.--Rheinstein. +--Assmanshausen.--Ehrenfels.--Mausetherm.--Bingen.--Geisenheim. +--Johannisberg.--Erbach.--Biberich.--Mayence.--John Guttemberg's +Statue--Austrian Troops.--An English Nobleman. + + +LETTER XLII. + +Frankfort.--The Römer; its Portraits of the Emperors.--Mr. Bethman's +Gallery of Statuary.--Ariadne.--Jews' Quarters.--Darmstadt.--The +Bergstrasse.--Heidelberg.--Castle.--Baden.--Kehl.--Strasburg. + + +LETTER XLIII. + +Cathedral; Its History; Interior Clock.--St. Thomas's Church.--Kleber's +Tomb. + + +LETTER XLIV. + +Vosges Mountains.--Vineyards.--Colmar.--Mühlhausen.--Basle.--Black +Forest.--United States Consul, Mr. Burchardt.--Cathedral.--Tomb of +Erasmus.--Chapter House.--Holbein Gallery.--University.--Library. +--MSS.--St. Jacob.--Tea Party. + + +LETTER XLV. + +Moutiers Valley.--Sublime Scenery.--Domach.--Arch.--Roman +Antiquities.--Berne.--Mechanical Clock.--Cathedral; Organ, Choir, +Bears.--Lausanne. + + +LETTER XLVI. + +Mountain Scenery.--Hotel Gibbon.--Episcopal Church.--Signal.--Hotel de +Ville, and its kind Inhabitants.--Cathedral; its History.--Steamboat +to Vevay.--Castle of Chillon.--St. Martin's Church and the +Regicides.--Geneva.--Cathedral.--Museum.--Calvin's +MBS.--D'Aubigné.--Gaussen--Malan.--Evangelical Association; its +Anniversary.--Count George.--Soirée.--Mr. Delorme.--The +Salève.--Savoy.--Rousseau's Island. + + +LETTER XLVII. + +Diligence for Dijon.--Fine Scenery.--Dijon; History.--Railroad to +Paris.--Sens.--Cathedral.--Fontainebleau. + + +LETTER XLVIII. + +Methodist Chapel.--Madeline.--Pantheon.--Louvre, open.--Statuary and +Paintings.--Versailles.--Statuary.--Series of National +Paintings.--Portraits of distinguished Men.--Apartments.--Gardens and +Fountains.--Grand and Petit Trianon.--Passy.--St. Cloud. + + +LETTER XLIX. + +Glass Depot--American Friends.--Good Intentions.--Hospital des +Invalides.--Garden of the Tulleries; its Scenery.--Triumphal +Arch.--Chapel of St. Ferdinand.--National Library.--A Tradesman's +Memory. + + +LETTER L. + +Calais; its Recollections.--Rough Passage of the Channel.--Dover.--Mr. +Peabody's Entertainment on the Fourth of July described.--Company.--A +patriotic Act. + + +LETTER LI. + +Entertainment at the Belgian Minister's.--Young Nobility.--A noble +Boy.--Craven Chapel.--Slavery.--Exhibition.--Pauper Labor.--Need of a +Tariff. + + +LETTER LII. + +Kind Friends at Bristol,--Weston Super Mare.--Museum of Baptist +College.--Highbury Chapel.--Old Houses of Bristol.--Fine Churches. + + +LETTER LIII. + +River Avon.--Wye.--Chepstow.--St. Aryan's.--Wynd Cliff.--Glorious +Scenery.--Tintern Abbey; its History.--Ragland Castle; +Appearance.--Marquis of Worcester.--Chopstow Castle.--Henry +Marten.--Defence of the Parliamentary Party.--Severn River.--Old +Passage.--Henbury.--Blaize Castle.--Birthday Lines. + + +LETTER LIV. + +Leave Bristol.--Berkeley.--Cheltenham.--Birmingham; Manufactories.--Rev. +John Angell James.--Mr. Vanwart.--Liverpool.--Chester; its +Antiquity.--Cathedral.--Rows and Pillars.--Englishmen and Americans have +much in Common.--Royal Agricultural Exhibition at Windsor. + + +LETTER LV. + +Passage Home in the Steamer Atlantic.--Claims of the Collins +Line.--Lessons taught by Travel in other Lands.--Our +Comforts.--Excellent Character of many of the English Nobility.--Queen +Victoria and Prince Albert.--Prospect of Affairs in Europe.--Popery as +seen in her proper Territories. + + + + +Young Americans Abroad. + + + + +Letter 1. + + +ASTOR HOUSE, NEW YORK, April 1, 1851. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +I have just arrived at this place, and have found my companions on hand, +all ready for the commencement of the long-anticipated voyage. We regret +the circumstances which render it your duty to remain, and we all feel +very sorry for the disappointment of your wishes and our hopes. You +will, however, feel happy in the thought that you are clearly in the +path of duty; and you have already learnt that that path is a safe one, +and that it always leads to happiness. You have begged us all to write +to you as frequently as we can, and we have concluded to send you our +joint contributions, drawing largely upon our journals as we move from +place to place; and, as we have for so many years had pleasant +intercourse in the family circle, we wish to maintain it by +correspondence abroad. Our letters will, of course, be very different +in their character and interest, because you will bear in mind that out +ages are different; and we shall write you from a variety of points, +some having a deeper interest than others. I trust that this series of +letters will give you a general view of our movements, and contribute to +your gratification, if not to your instruction. The weather is +delightful, and we are anticipating a fine day for leaving port. It is +to all of us a source of pain that we are deprived of your sunny smile; +and while we are wandering far away in other lands, we shall often, in +fancy, listen to your merry laugh; and I assure you, my dear fellow, +that, wherever we rove, it will be amongst our pleasantest thoughts of +home when we anticipate the renewal of personal intercourse with one who +has secured so warm a place in our affections. + +Yours truly, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 2. + + +ADELPHI HOTEL, LIVERPOOL, April 14. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +It is but twelve days since we parted, and yet we are actually in the +old world, and the things which we have so often talked over on the +rock-bound shore are really before me. Yes, we are on the soil of Old +England, and are soon to see its glories and greatness, and, I fear, its +miseries, for a bird's eye view has already satisfied me that there is +enough of poverty. You know we left New York in a soaking rain, and the +wind blowing fresh from the north-east. We all felt disappointed, as we +had hoped to pass down the bay, so celebrated for its beauty, with the +bright sunshine to cheer our way; but we had to take comfort from the +old proverb, that "a bad beginning makes a good ending." James, George, +and I had made up our minds to a regular time of sea-sickness, and so we +hastened to put our state room into order and have all our conveniences +fixed for the voyage. As soon as we had made matters comfortable, we +returned to the deck, and found a most formidable crowd. Every passenger +seemed to have, on the occasion, a troop of friends, and all parts of +the immense steamer were thronged. The warning voice of _"all on shore"_ +soon caused a secession, and at twelve o'clock we had the great agent at +work by which we hoped to make headway against wind and wave. The +cheering of the crowd upon the wharf was hearty as we dropped into the +river, and its return from our passengers was not lacking in spirit. The +Arctic, you know, is one of the Collins line of steamers, and I was not +a little surprised at her vast size and splendid accommodations, because +I had only seen the Cunard boats in Boston, which are very inferior, in +size and comfort, to this palace and tower of the ocean. + +We all anticipated a hard time of it, from the severe storm which raged +all the morning, and I, in common with all the passengers, was delighted +to find it any thing but rough water outside the Hook. We kept steaming +away till we lost sight of land with the loss of daylight, and yet the +sea was in less commotion than it frequently exhibits in Newport Harbor. +The next morning, at breakfast, we had quite a fair representation at +table, and I think more than two thirds presented themselves for duty. +We boys were all on hand, and passed for "able-bodied men." The routine +of life on board was as follows: We breakfasted at eight, lunched at +twelve, dined at four, took tea at half past six, and from nine till +eleven gentlemen had any article for supper they saw fit to order. This +is quite enough of time for taking care of the outer man, and any one +careful of his health will be sure to intermit one or two of these +seasons. All the meals were excellent, and the supplies liberal. The +tables present a similar appearance to those of a first-class hotel. In +regard to our passengers, I think I can say, with confidence, that a +more agreeable set of persons could not well have been gathered +together. It really was a nicely-assorted cargo. We numbered one +hundred and thirty, and the various parts of our country were all +represented. Philadelphia sent the largest delegation; from that city we +had more than twenty. I liked the looks of the passengers at the first +glance, and every day's intercourse heightened my estimate of their +worth and pleasantness. Amongst the company we had Professor Haddock, of +Dartmouth College, going out to Portugal as _chargé d'affaires_. He was +accompanied by his lady and son. Then, too, we had the world-renowned +Peter Parley, with his accomplished family circle. Mr. Goodrich, after a +long life of labor for the youth of his country, for whose reading and +instruction he has done so much, has been honored by the government of +the United States with an appointment as consul at Paris. Mr. Goodrich +resided there for two or three years, and was in Paris during the +revolution of 1848. He seems fond of the company of young people, and we +spent a great deal of time on board with him, listening to his stories, +some made up for the occasion, and narrations of the events in February +at Paris, and some capital anecdotes about the last war with England, +during which he served his country in the army. The Hon. George Wright, +of California, and her first representative in Congress, was also one of +our party; and his glowing descriptions of the auriferous regions kept +groups of audience for many an hour. The Rev. Arthur Cleveland Cox, of +Hartford, favorably known as the author of some pleasant rhymes and +sonnets, Mr. Cunningham, a southern editor, and several retired sea +captains, all contributed to enhance the agreeableness of the voyage. I +am sorry to tell you that, three days out, we had a sad occurrence in +our little world. Just as we were sitting down to lunch at eight bells, +the machinery stopped for a moment, and we were informed that William +Irwin, one of the assistant engineers, was crushed to death. He +accidentally slipped from his position, and was killed instantaneously. +In less than half an hour he was sewed up in canvas, and all hands +called to attend his funeral services! The poor fellow was laid upon a +plank covered with the American flag, and placed at the wheel-house. The +service was performed by Mr. Cox, in full canonicals; and I can assure +you that the white-robed priest, as he issued from the cabin and +ascended the wheel-house, really looked impressively. At the close, he +was committed to the deep. What food for thought was here! A man in +health and at life's daily task,--alive,--dead,--and buried,--all these +conditions of his state crowded into thirty minutes! The poor man had a +mother who was dependent upon him. Dr. Choules drew up a subscription +paper for her benefit, and nearly five hundred dollars were at once +raised for her relief. This unhappy event, of course, gave a sad +damper to the joyous feelings which existed on board, and which were +excited by our fine weather and rapid headway. On Sunday we had two +sermons in the cabin to large congregations, all the passengers +attending, with the officers and many of the crew. The morning service +was by Dr. Choules, and the evening one by Mr. Cox. + +[Illustration: Four Positions of an Iceberg, seen 6th of April. +Estimated Height, 300 feet. Lat. 43.04; long. 53.11; at Noon.] + +[Illustration: Icebergs seen from the Steamship "Arctic," on the Voyage +from New York to Liverpool, April 6, 1851.] + +In the afternoon, April 6, we had the gratification to see a magnificent +iceberg. We were in lat. 43° 4', lon. 53° 11' at twelve o'clock, and at +three the ice appeared at about ten miles' distance. The estimated +height was about three hundred feet. One if the passengers took a +sketch. I also made one, and have laid it aside for your inspection. + +The berg had much the appearance of the gable end of a large house, and +at some little distance there was another, of tower-like aspect, and +much resembling a light-house. The effect of the sun upon it, as we saw +it in various positions, was exceedingly fine. On Monday, the 7th, we +saw a much larger one, with several small ones as neighbors. This was +probably one mile in length, and about two hundred feet high. + +We saw several whales frolicking at the distance of a mile, and +distinctly saw them spout at short intervals. + +After having had all reason to hope for a ten-day passage, we were +annoyed for four or five days with head winds, materially retarding our +headway. The evenings of the voyage were generally spent on deck, where +we had charming concerts. Seldom have I heard better singing than we +were favored with by eight or ten ladies and gentlemen. One universal +favorite was the beautiful piece, "Far, far at sea." On Sunday, the +13th, just after morning service, conducted by Mr. Cox, we made Mizzen +Head, and obtained a magnificent view of the north coast of Ireland, +which was far more beautiful than we had expected. The coast is very +bold, and the cliffs precipitous, in many places strongly reminding us +of the high lands of the Hudson. A more exquisite treat than that which +we enjoyed all the afternoon in looking on the Irish coast I can hardly +imagine. At night we had a closing service, and Dr. Choules preached. +Every one seemed to feel that we had cause for thankfulness that we had +been brought in safety across the ocean, and under so many circumstances +of enjoyment We have made acquaintances that are truly valuable, and +some of them I hope to cultivate in future life. One of the great +advantages of travel, Charles, seems to be, that it enables us to +compare men of other places than those we live in with our former +acquaintances. It brings us into intercourse with those who have had a +different training and education than our own; and I think a man or boy +must be pretty thoroughly conceited who does not often find out his own +inferiority to many with whom he chances to meet. On board our ship are +several young men of fine attainments, who, engaged in mechanical +business, are going out to obtain improvement and instruction by a +careful study of the great exhibition. A number of gentlemen with us are +young merchants, who represent houses in our great cities, and go to +England and France twice and three times every year. Some of these are +thoroughly accomplished men, and, wherever they go, will reflect credit +upon their country. In no country, perhaps, do young men assume +important trusts in commercial life at so early a period as in America. +I have heard one or two Englishmen on board express their surprise at +finding large business operations intrusted to young men of twenty and +twenty-one; and yet there are some such with us who are making their +second and third trips to Manchester, Leeds, Paisley, and Paris, for the +selection of goods. + +I ought to tell you that, on the last day of the voyage, we had a great +meeting in the cabin, Mr. Goodrich in the chair, for the purpose of +expressing the satisfaction of the passengers with the Arctic, her +captain, officers, and engineer. Several good speeches were made, and +some resolutions passed. This has become so ordinary an affair at the +termination of a passage, as to have lost much of its original value; +but as this ship had an unusual number of passengers, many of them well +known to their fellow-countrymen, and as great opposition had been +displayed, on both sides of the ocean, to this line of steamers, it was +thought suitable to express our views in relation to this particular +ship and the great undertaking with which she is identified. Every man +on board was satisfied that, in safety, these ships are equal to the +Cunard line; while in comfort, accommodation, size, and splendor they +far surpass their rivals. It really seems strange to us that Americans +should think of making the ocean trip in an English steamship, when +their own country has a noble experiment in trial, the success of which +alone depends upon the patriotism and spirit of her citizens. The +English on board are forced to confess that our ship and the line are +all that can be asked, and I think that pretty strong prejudices have +been conquered by this voyage. Every one left the ship with sentiments +of respect to Captain Luce, who, I assure you, we found to be a very +kind friend, and we shall all of us be glad to meet him again on ship or +shore. + +On Monday, the 14th, at three o'clock, we took our pilot, and at eight +o'clock we anchored off Liverpool, and a dark-looking steamtug came off +to us for the mails, foreign ministers, and bearers of despatches. As +we came under the wing of one of the last-named class of favored +individuals, we took our luggage, and proceeded straight to the Adelphi +Hotel. I ought to say that James was the first to quit the ship and +plant his foot on Old England. It was quite strange to see it so light +at half past eight o'clock, although it was a rainy evening. I shall not +soon forget the cheerful appearance of the Adelphi, which, in all its +provisions for comfort, both in the coffee-room and our chambers, struck +me more favorably than any hotel I had ever seen. Although our +state-room on board the Arctic was one of the extra size and every thing +that was nice, yet I long for the conveniences of a bed-chamber and a +warm bath. I am quite disposed to join with the poor Irish woman who had +made a steerage passage from New York to Liverpool in a packet ship; and +when landed at St. George's pier, and seated on her trunk, a lady who +had also landed, when getting into her carriage, said, "Well, my good +woman, I suppose you are very glad to get out of the ship?" Her reply +was, "And indeed, my lady, every bone in my body cries out _feathers!_" + + +Yours truly, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 3. + + +LIVERPOOL. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Well, we have fairly commenced our travel, and yet I can scarcely +realize the fact that I am here in Old England, and that, for some +months at least, I shall be away from home and the occupations of the +school-room. The next day after landing we went to the custom-house to +see our fellow-passengers pass their effects, and really felt glad to +think of our good fortune in landing every thing at night and direct +from the ship. It was an exciting scene, and I was not a little amused +to observe the anxiety of the gentlemen to save their cigars from the +duty imposed, and which amounts to nine shillings sterling per pound. +All sorts of contrivances were in vogue, and the experiences of men were +various, the man with one hundred, perhaps, being brought up, while his +neighbor with five hundred passed off successfully, and, as he cleared +the building, seemed disposed to place his finger on the prominent +feature of his face. + +I quite like the appearance of Liverpool. After walking through the +principal streets and making a general survey of the shops,--no one +speaks of _store_,--I think I can testify to the extraordinary cleanness +of the city, and the massiveness and grandeur of the public buildings. + +Our attention was first directed to the cemetery which had been +described, you remember, to us one evening in the study. It is on the +confines of the city, and is made but of an old quarry. I liked it +better than any cemetery I ever saw; it is unlike all I had seen, and, +though comparatively small, is very picturesque, I may almost say +romantic. The walls are lofty, and are devoted to spacious tombs, and +the groundwork abounds in garden shrubbery and labyrinth. Some of the +monuments are striking. The access to this resting-place is by a steep +cut through the rock, and you pass under an archway of the most imposing +character. At the entrance of the cemetery is a neat chapel, and the +officiating minister has a dwelling-house near the gate. + +I wish you could see a building now in progress, and which has taken +twelve or fourteen years to erect, and from its appearance will not, I +suppose, be finished in four or five more. It is called St. George's +Hall. The intent is to furnish suitable accommodations for the various +law courts, and also to contain the finest ball-room in Europe. It is in +a commanding position. I know little of architecture, but this building +strikes me as one of exquisite beauty. We obtained an order from the +mayor to be shown over it and examine the works, and we enjoyed it very +much. The great hall will be without a rival in England. The town hall +is a noble edifice, and the people are quite proud of it. The interior +is finely laid out, and has some spacious rooms for the civic revelries +of the fathers of the town. The good woman who showed us round feels +complacently enough as she explains the uses of the rooms. The ball-room +is ninety feet by forty-six, and forty feet high. The dining and +drawing-rooms are spacious apartments. On the grand staircase is a noble +statue of George Canning, by Chantrey, whose beautiful one of Washington +we have so often admired in the Boston State House. In the building are +some good paintings of the late kings; one or two by Sir Thomas +Lawrence. The Exchange is directly behind the hall, and contains in the +centre a glorious bronze monument to Lord Nelson, the joint production +of Wyat and Westmacott. Death is laying his hand upon the hero's heart, +and Victory is placing a fourth crown on his sword. Ever since I read +Southey's Life of Nelson, I have felt an interest in every thing +relating to this great; yet imperfect man. You know that illustrated +work on Nelson that we have so often looked at it contains a large +engraving of this monument. As Yankee boys, we found our way to the top +of the Exchange, to look at the cotton sales-room. This same room has +more to do with our good friends at the south than any other in the +world. The atmosphere would have been chilly to a Georgian planter, as +cotton was down--down. + +The Necropolis is a very spacious burying-place, open to all classes, +and where persons can be interred with the use of any form desired. The +gateway is of stone, and not unlike the granite one at Mount Auburn; and +on one side is a chapel, and on the other a house for the register. Not +far from this we came to the Zoölogical Gardens, kept in excellent +order, and where is a good collection of animals, birds, &c. The +Collegiate Institution is an imposing structure in the Tudor style. + +St. George's Church, which stands at the head of Lord Street, occupies +the position of the old castle, destroyed, I believe, more than one +hundred and fifty years ago, and is a very graceful termination to one +of the best business avenues of the city. Several of the churches and +chapels are in good style. But one of the best buildings is--as it +should be, in a city like this--the Sailor's Home, not far from the +Custom House. This is a highly-ornamented house, and would adorn any +city of the world. + +The Custom House is thought to be one of the finest buildings in the +kingdom. It occupied ten years in its erection. It is composed of three +_façades_, from a rusticated pavement, each having a splendid portico of +eight Ionic columns. The whole is surmounted by a dome, one hundred and +thirty feet high, and the effect of the building is excellent. The glory +of Liverpool is her docks, and a stranger is sure to be pointed to the +great landing stage, an immense floating pier, which was moored into its +present position on the 1st of June, 1847. This stage is five hundred +and seven feet long, and over eighty feet wide. This mass of timber +floats upon pontoons, which have to support more than two thousand tons. +At each end is a light barge. + +In the Clarence dock are to be found the Irish and coasting steamers, +and to the north are the Trafalgar, Victoria, and Waterloo docks; the +Prince's dock, and the Great Prince's dock basin. On the outside of all +these is a fine parade, of about one half a mile, and which affords one +of the most beautiful marine promenades in the world, and gives an +interesting view of the Cheshire shore, opposite the city. The Prince's +dock is five hundred yards long, and one hundred broad. Vessels, on +arriving, discharge on the east side, and take in cargo on the west. +Besides all these there is the Brunswick dock, Queen's dock, Duke's +dock, Salthouse dock, &c. + +The Royal Liverpool Institution is a great benefit to the inhabitants. +It has a good library, fine collections of paintings, and a good museum +of natural history. Many of these paintings belong to the early masters, +and date even before the fifteenth century. We were interested to find +here a complete set of casts of the Elgin marbles. The originals were +the decorations of the Parthenon at Athens, and are now in the British +Museum. As we shall spend some time in that collection, I say no more at +present about these wonderful monuments of genius. The Athenæum and the +Lyceum are both fine buildings, and each has a good library, lecture, +and news rooms. + +We were disappointed at finding the Rev. Dr. Raffles, the most eloquent +preacher of the city, out of town. He was the successor of Spencer, who +was drowned bathing in the Mersey, and his Life by Raffles is one of +deep interest. The great historical name of Liverpool is William Roscoe, +the author of the Lives of Leo X. and the Medici. I must not omit to +tell you that, during our stay, the town was all alive with a regiment +of lancers, just arrived from Ireland, on their way to London. They are +indeed fine-looking fellows, and are mounted on capital horses. I have +watched their evolutions in front of the Adelphi with much pleasure, and +have been amused to notice a collection of the most wretched-looking +boys I ever saw, brought together by the troops. There seems to me more +pauperism this week, in Liverpool, than I ever saw in New York in my +life. + + +Truly yours, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 4. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Does it not seem strange that I am here in London? I can hardly tell +what to write about first. I stand at the door of our hotel and look at +the crowds in the streets, and then at old King Charles, at Charing +Cross, directly across the road, and when I think that this is the old +city where Wat Tyler figured, and Whittington was lord mayor, and Lady +Jane Grey was beheaded, and where the Tower is still to be seen, I am +half beside myself, and want to do nothing but roam about for a good +month to come. I have read so much concerning London, that I am pretty +sure I know more about it than many of the boys who have heard Bow +Church bells all their lives. We left Liverpool for Birmingham, where we +passed an afternoon and evening in the family of a manufacturer very +pleasantly, and at ten o'clock took the express mail train for London. +We are staying at a hotel called the Golden Cross, Charing Cross. We +have our breakfast in the coffee-room, and then dine as it suits our +convenience as to place and hour. We spent one day in riding about the +city, and I think we got quite an idea of the great streets. + +The Strand is a very fine business street, perhaps a mile long. It +widens in one part, and has two churches in the middle of it, and a +narrow street seems built inside it at one place, as nasty, dirty a lane +as I ever saw, called Hollowell Street. I was very much delighted at the +end of the Strand to see old Temple Bar, which is the entrance to the +city proper, and which divides Fleet Street from the Strand. It is a +noble archway, with small side arches for foot passengers. The head of +many a poor fellow, and the quarters of men called traitors, have been +fastened over this gateway in former times. + +Dr. Johnson was once walking in Westminster Abbey with Goldsmith, and as +they were looking at the Poet's Corner, Johnson said to his friend,-- + + "Forsitan et nostrum nomen miscebitur istis." + +When they had walked on to Temple Bar, Goldsmith stopped Johnson, and +pointed to the heads of Fletcher and Townley, hanging above, and slyly +remarked,-- + + "Forsitan et nostrum nomen miscebitur _istis_." + +I suppose you remember that the great dictionary man was a Jacobite in +his heart. + +The present bar was put up in 1670, and was designed by Sir Christopher +Wren. The statues on the sides, which are towards the city, are those of +Queen Elizabeth and James I.; and towards the Strand, those of Charles +I. and Charles II. They stand in niches. + +Whenever the monarch passes into the city, there is much ceremony takes +place at the bar. The gates are closed, a herald sounds a trumpet and +knocks for entrance, the gates are opened, and the lord mayor of London +presents the sword of the city to the sovereign, who returns it to his +lordship. The upper part of the bar is used by Messrs. Childs, the +bankers, as a store room for their past account books. + +Fleet Street is thronged with passengers and carriages of all sorts. +Just a few doors from the bar, on the right-hand side, is a +gayly-painted front, which claims to have been a palace of Henry VIII. +and the residence of Cardinal Wolsey. It is now used as a hair-cutting +shop, up stairs. We went up and examined the panelled ceiling, said to +be just as it used to be. It is certainly very fine, and looks as if it +were as old as the times of bluff Harry. Of course we had our hair cut +in the old palace. + +We followed through Fleet Street, noticing the offices of Punch and the +London Illustrated News, till we came to Ludgate Hill,--rather an +ascent,--which is the direct way to the Cathedral Church of St. Paul's. +It stands directly in front of Ludgate Hill, and the churchyard occupies +a large space, and the streets open on each side, making a sort of +square called Paul's Churchyard, and then at the rear you go into +Cheapside. We looked with interest, I can tell you, at Bow Church, and, +as the old bells were ringing, I tried to listen if I could hear what +Whittington heard once from their tingling--"Turn again, Whittington, +lord mayor, of London." At the end of this street, on the right hand, is +the lord mayor's house, called the Mansion House, and directly in front +of the street, closing it up, and making it break off, is the Royal +Exchange; whilst at the left is the Bank of England. All these are very +noble-looking buildings, and you will hear about them from us as we +examine them in our future walks. We went to the counting-house of +Messrs. Baring & Co., the great merchants and bankers for so many +Americans, and there we found our letters and got some money. Mr. +Sturgis, one of the partners, told us to take the check to the bank, No. +68 Lombard Street, and informed us that was the very house where the +great merchant of Queen Elizabeth's time--Sir Thomas Gresham--used to +live. He built the first London Exchange, and his sign, a large +grasshopper, is still preserved at the bank. On Good Friday we had bunns +for breakfast, with a cross upon them, and they were sold through the +streets by children, crying "One a penny, two a penny, hot cross bunns." +We took a carriage and rode to Camden town to visit a friend; thence we +took the cars, to Hackney, and called on the Rev. Dr. Cox, who some +fifteen years ago made the tour of the United States, and wrote a +volume on our country. We then returned to London, and took our dinner +at the London Coffee House, Ludgate Hill. This has been a very +celebrated house for one hundred years, and figures largely in the books +of travellers fifty years ago. It has a high reputation still, and every +thing was excellent, and the waiting good. You cannot walk about London +without observing how few boys of our age are to be seen in the streets, +and when we asked the reason, we were told that nearly all the lads of +respectable families were sent to boarding schools, and the vacations +only occur at June and December; then the boys return home, and the city +swarms with them at all the places of amusement. We seemed to be objects +of attention, because we wore caps; (here boys all wear hats;) and then +our gilt buttons on blue jackets led many to suppose that we were +midshipmen. The omnibuses are very numerous, and each one has a +conductor, who stands on a high step on the left side of the door, +watching the sidewalks and crying out the destination of the "bus," as +the vehicle is called. There is a continual cry, "Bank, bank," "Cross, +cross," "City, city," &c. I must not forget to tell you one thing; and +that is, London is the place to make a sight-seeing boy very tired, and +I am quite sure that, in ten minutes, I shall be unable to do what I can +now very heartily, viz., assure you that + +I am yours, affectionately, + +GEORGE. + + + + +Letter 5. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +After passing a day or two in a general view of the city, and making +some preliminary arrangements for our future movements, we all called +upon Mr. Lawrence, the minister of our country at the court of St. +James, which expression refers to the appellation of the old palace of +George III. Mr. Lawrence resides in Piccadilly, opposite the St. James's +Park, in a very splendid mansion, which he rents from an English +nobleman, all furnished. We were very kindly received by his excellency, +who expressed much pleasure at seeing his young countrymen coming +abroad, and said he was fond of boys, and liked them as travelling +companions. I handed him a letter of introduction from his brother. Mr. +Lawrence offered us all the facilities in his power to see the sights, +and these are great, for he is furnished by the government of England +with orders which will admit parties to almost every thing in and about +London. Amongst other tickets he gave us the following admissions: to +the Queen's stables, Windsor Castle, Dulwich Gallery, Woolwich Arsenal, +Navy Yard, Sion House, Northumberland House, Houses of Parliament, and, +what we highly valued, an admission to enter the exhibition, which is +yet unfinished, and not open to inspection. + +After leaving the minister, we paid our respects to Mr. Davis, the +secretary of legation, and were kindly received. We walked on from +Piccadilly to the Crystal Palace, passing Apsley House, the residence of +the Duke of Wellington, and soon reached Hyde Park, with its famous +gateway and the far-famed statue of "the duke." As we shall go into some +detailed account of the palace after the exhibition opens, I would only +say, that we were exceedingly surprised and delighted with the building +itself, and were so taken up with that as hardly to look at its +contents, which were now rapidly getting into order. The effect of the +noble elms which are covered up in the palace is very striking and +pleasing, and very naturally suggests the idea that the house would, by +and by, make a glorious green-house for the city, where winter's +discontents might be almost made into a "glorious summer." A poor fellow +was killed here, just before we entered, by falling through the skylight +roof. He was at work on a plank laid across the iron frame, and that +tipping up, threw him on to the glass, and his death was instantaneous. +We are more and more pleased at having so central a domicile as the +Golden Cross, for time is every thing when you have to see sights; and +here we can get to any point we desire by a bus, and obtain a fly at any +moment. Very much that we desire to see, too, is east of Temple Bar, and +our Mentor seems determined that we shall become acquainted with the +London of other times, and we rarely walk out without learning who lived +in "that house," and what event had happened in "that street." I fancy +that we are going to gather up much curious matter for future use and +recollection by our street wanderings. A book called "The Streets of +London" is our frequent study, and is daily consulted with advantage. +To-day we dined at the famous Williams's, in Old Bailey, where boiled +beef is said to be better than at any other place in London. It was +certainly as fine as could be desired. The customers were numerous, and +looked like business men. The proprietor was a busy man, and his eyes +seemed every where. A vision of cockroaches, however, dispelled the +appetite for a dessert, and we perambulated our way to the Monument. +This has a noble appearance, and stands on Fish Street Hill. The pillar +is two hundred and two feet high, and is surmounted by a gilt flame. The +object of the Monument is to commemorate the great fire of London in +Charles II.'s reign. + +It had an inscription which ascribed the origin of the fire to the +Catholics; but recently this has been obliterated. It was to this +inscription and allegation that Pope referred in his lines,-- + + "Where London's column, pointing to the skies, Like a tall bully, + lifts its head, and _lies_." + +There are few things in London that have impressed us more than the +fine, massive bridges which span the Thames, and are so crowded with +foot passengers and carriages. Every boy who has read much has had his +head full of notions about London Bridge; that is, old London Bridge, +which was taken down about thirty years ago. The old bridge was +originally a wooden structure, and on the sides of the bridge were +houses, and the pathway in front had all sorts of goods exposed for +sale, and the Southwark gate of the bridge was disfigured with the heads +and quarters of the poor creatures who were executed for treason. + +The new bridge was commenced in 1825, and it was opened in 1831 by +William IV. and Queen Adelaide. The bridge has five arches; the central +one is one hundred and fifty feet in the clear, the two next one hundred +and forty feet, and the extreme arches one hundred and thirty feet. The +length, including the abutments, is about one thousand feet, its width +eighty-three feet, and the road for carriages fifty-five feet. + +The great roads leading to London Bridge have been most costly affairs; +and I was told that a _parish and its church_ had been destroyed to make +these approaches. The men of different generations, who, for almost one +thousand years, looked at the old bridge, would stare at the present one +and its present vicinity, if they were to come back again. Southwark +Bridge was commenced in 1814, and finished in 1819. It has three arches, +and the central arch is two hundred and forty feet, which is the +greatest span in the world. In this bridge are five thousand three +hundred and eight tons of iron. Blackfriars Bridge was commenced in +1760, and opened in 1770. It has nine elliptical arches, of which the +middle one is one hundred feet in width. Recently this bridge has been +thoroughly repaired. I think this is my favorite stand-point for the +river and city. Nowhere else have I obtained such a view up and down the +river. Here I have a full prospect of the Tower, St. Paul's Cathedral, +Somerset House, the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, and perhaps +twenty-five other churches! But the great bridge of all is the Waterloo +one, commenced in 1811, and opened in 1817, on the 18th of June, the +anniversary of the battle of Waterloo. Of course, the Duke of Wellington +figured upon the occasion. At this point the river is one thousand three +hundred and twenty-six feet wide; and the bridge is of nine elliptical +arches, each of one hundred and twenty feet space, and thirty-five feet +high above high water, and its entire length two thousand four hundred +and fifty-six feet. It is painful to hear the sad stories which have a +connection with this magnificent structure. It seems the chosen resort +of London suicides, and very frequent are the events which almost +justify its appellation--"the Bridge of Sighs." I love to walk this and +the other bridges, and look at the mighty city, and think of its +wonderful history and its existing place in the affairs of the world; +and I cannot help thinking of the reflection of the wise man--"One +generation passeth away, but the earth remaineth." I have never felt my +own insignificance so much, Charley, as when walking in one of these +crowded streets. I know no one; I am unknown; I am in solitude, and feel +it more, perhaps, than I should if alone upon a mountain top or in a +wilderness. I am sure I have told you enough for once, and perhaps you +are as tired of my letter as I was in going over the places I have +written to you about; so I will relieve your patience. + +I am yours always, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 6. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +All round London there are the most exquisite villages or towns, full of +charming retreats, boxes of wealthy tradesmen, and some very fine rows +of brick and stone residences, with gardens in front. I am amused to see +almost every house having a name. Thus you find one house called, on +the gateway, Hamilton Villa, the next Hawthorne Lodge, whilst opposite +their fellows rejoice in the names, Pelham House, Cranborne Cottage; and +so it is with hundreds of neat little domiciles. I think the road up to +St. John's Wood is one of the prettiest I have seen; and there are in it +perhaps two hundred habitations, each having its _sobriquet._ Since +writing to you last we have been to Camberwell, a very pretty place, two +or three miles from the city. We called on a gentleman who had a party +that night, and we were politely invited, and spent an agreeable +evening. The supper was elegant, and the ladies were quite inquisitive +as to our social manners. One gentleman present had a son in Wisconsin, +and he seemed to fancy that, as that state was in the United States, it +was pretty much like the rest of the country. We told him that Wisconsin +was about as much like New York and Massachusetts as Brighton, in 1851, +was like what it was one hundred years ago. When we talk with +well-educated persons here, we are much amused at their entire +unacquaintedness with American geography and history. I think an +importation of Morse's School Geography would be of great service. We +very often lose our patience when we hear about the great danger of life +in America. I find very intelligent and respectable persons who fancy +that life is held by a slight tenure in the Union, and that law and +order are almost unknown. Now, the first week we were in London the +papers teemed with accounts of murders in various parts of England. One +newspaper detailed no less than eleven oases of murder, or executions on +account of murders. Poison, however, seems just at present the +prevailing method by which men and women are removed. + +As to accidents in travel, we, no doubt, have our full share; but since +our arrival in England the railroad trains have had some pretty rough +shakings, and the results in loss of life and limb would have passed for +quite ugly enough, even had they happened in the west. I very much wish +you could have been with us on Easter Monday, when we passed the day at +Greenwich, and were at the renowned Greenwich Fair, which lasts for +three days. The scene of revelry takes place in the Park, a royal one, +and really a noble one. Here all the riff-raff and bobtail of London +repair in their finery, and have a time. You can form no notion of the +affair; it cannot be described. The upper part of the Park, towards the +Royal Observatory, is very steep, and down this boys and girls, men and +women, have a roll. Such scenes as are here to be witnessed we cannot +match. Nothing can exceed the doings that occur. All the public houses +swarm, and in no spot have I ever seen so many places for drinking as +are here. The working-men of London, and apprentices, with wires and +sweethearts, all turn out Easter Monday. It seems as though all the +horses, carts, chaises, and hackney coaches of the city were on the +road. We saw several enormous coal wagons crammed tightly with boys and +girls. On the fine heath, or down, that skirts the Park, are hundreds of +donkeys, and you are invited to take a halfpenny, penny, or twopenny +ride. All sorts of gambling are to be seen. One favorite game with the +youngsters was to have a tobacco box, full of coppers, stuck on a stick +standing in a hole, and then, for a halfpenny paid to the proprietor, +you are entitled to take a shy at the mark. If it falls into the hole, +you lose; if you knock it off, and away from the hole, you take it. It +_requires,_ I fancy, much adroitness and experience to make any thing at +"shying" at the "bacca box." At night, Greenwich is all alive--life is +out of London and in the fair. But let the traveller who has to return +to town beware. The road is full of horses and vehicles, driven by +drunken men and boys; and, for four or five miles, you can imagine that +a city is besieged, and that the inhabitants are flying from the sword. +O, such weary-looking children as we saw that day! One favorite +amusement was to draw a little wooden instrument quick over the coat of +another person, when it produces a noise precisely like that of a torn +garment. Hundreds of these machines were in the hands of the urchins who +crowded the Park. Here, for the first time, I saw the veritable gypsy of +whose race we have read so much in Bòrrow's Zincali. The women are very +fine looking, and some of the girls were exquisitely beautiful. They are +a swarthy-looking set, and seem to be a cross of Indian and Jew. Those +we saw were proper wiry-looking fellows. One or two of the men were +nattily dressed, with fancy silk handkerchiefs. They live in tents, and +migrate through the midland counties, but I believe are not as numerous +as they were thirty years ago. You will not soon forget how we were +pleased with the memoirs of Bamfield Moore Carew, who was once known as +their king in Great Britain. I wonder that book has never been reprinted +in America. I am pretty sure that Greenwich Park would please your +taste. I think the view from the Royal Observatory, and from whence +longitude is reckoned, is one of the grandest I have ever seen. You get +a fine view of the noble palace once the royal residence, but now the +Sailor's Home. You see the Thames, with its immense burden, and, through +the mist, the great city. As to the Hospital, we shall leave that for +another excursion: we came to Greenwich at present merely to witness +Easter Fair, and it will not soon be forgotten by any of us. + +Yours, &c., + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 7. + + +BRISTOL. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +As we had a few days to spare before the exhibition opened, we proposed +to run down to Bristol and Bath, and pass a week. We took the Great +Western train first-class ears, and made the journey of one hundred and +twenty miles in two hours and forty minutes. This is the perfection of +travelling. The cars are very commodious, holding eight persons, each +having a nicely-cushioned chair. The rail is the broad gage; and we +hardly felt the motion, so excellent is the road. The country through +which we passed was very beautiful, and perhaps it never appears to more +advantage than in the gay garniture of spring. We left Windsor Castle to +our left, and Eton College, and passed by Beading, a fine, flourishing +town; and at Swindon we made a stay of ten minutes. The station at this +place is very spacious and elegant. Here the passengers have the only +opportunity to obtain refreshments on the route; and never did people +seem more intent upon laying in provender. The table was finely laid +out, and a great variety tempted the appetite. The railroad company, +when they leased this station, stipulated that every train should pass +ten minutes at it. But the express train claimed exemption, and refused +to afford the time. The landlord prosecuted the company, obtained +satisfactory damages, and now even the express train affords its +passengers time to recruit at Swindon. This place has grown up under the +auspices of the railroad, and one can hardly fancy a prettier place than +environs the station. The cottages are of stone, of the Elizabethan and +Tudor style, and are very numerous; while the church, which is just +finished, is one of the neatest affairs I have yet seen in England. The +town of Swindon is about two miles from the station, and I expect to +visit it in the course of my journey. You know, my dear Charley, how +long and fondly I have anticipated my visit to my native city, and can +imagine my feelings on this route homewards. We passed through Bath, a +most beautiful city, (and I think as beautiful as any I ever saw,) and +then in half an hour we entered Bristol. The splendid station-house of +the railroad was new to me, but the old streets and houses were all +familiar as if they had been left but yesterday. The next morning I +called on my friends, and you may think how sad my disappointment was to +find that a dangerous accident had just placed my nearest relative in +the chamber of painful confinement for probably three months. It was a +pleasant thing to come home to scenes of childhood and youth, and I was +prepared to enjoy every hour; but I soon realized that here all our +roses have thorns. Of course, in Bristol I need no guide; and the boys +are, I assure you, pretty thoroughly fagged out, when night comes, with +our perambulations through the old city and neighborhood. + +Bristol has claims upon the attention of the stranger, not only as one +of the oldest cities in England, but on account of its romantic scenery. +The banks of the Avon are not to be surpassed by the scenes afforded by +any other river of its size in the world. This city was founded by +Brennus, the chieftain of the Gauls and the conqueror of Rome, 388 B.C., +and tradition states that his brother Belinus aided him in the work. The +statues of these worthies are quaintly carved on the gateway of John's +Church, in Broad Street, and are of very great antiquity. In the +earliest writings that bear upon the west of England--the Welsh +Chronicles--this city is called _Caër oder_, which means the city of the +_Chasm_. This the Saxons called _Clifton_. The Avon runs through a +tremendous fissure in the rocks called Vincent's Rocks; and hence the +name given to the suburbs of the city, on its banks--Clifton. Of this +place we shall have much to tell you. Another Welsh name for the city +was _Caër Brito_, or the painted city, or the famous city. Bristol, like +Rome, stands on seven hills, and on every side is surrounded by the most +attractive scenery. It has made quite a figure in history, and its +castle was an object of great importance during the civil wars between +Charles I. and his Parliament. This city stands in two counties, and has +the privileges of one itself. It is partly in Gloucestershire and partly +in Somersetshire. The population of Bristol, with Clifton and the Hot +Wells, is about two hundred thousand. My first excursion with the boys +was to Redcliffe Church, which is thought to be the finest parish church +in England. This is the church where poor Chatterton said that he found +the Rowley MSS. No one of taste visits the city without repairing to +this venerable pile. Its antiquity, beauty of architecture, and the many +interesting events connected with its history, claim particular notice. +This church was probably commenced about the beginning of the thirteenth +century; but it was completed by William Cannynge, Sen., mayor of the +city, in 1396. In 1456, the lofty spire was struck by lightning, and one +hundred feet fell upon the south aisle. The approach from Redcliffe +Street is very impressive. The highly-ornamented tower, the west front +of the church, its unrivalled north porch, and the transept, with flying +buttresses, pinnacles, and parapet, cannot fail to gratify every +beholder. The building stands on a hill, and is approached by a +magnificent flight of steps, guarded by a heavy balustrade. In length, +the church and the Lady Chapel is two hundred and thirty-nine feet; +from north to south of the cross aisles is one hundred and seventeen +feet; the height of the middle aisle is fifty-four, and of the north and +south aisles, twenty-five feet. + +The impression produced on the spectator by the interior is that of awe +and reverence, as he gazes on the clustered pillars, the mullioned +windows, the panelled walls, the groined ceilings, decorated with ribs, +tracery, and bosses, all evincing the skill of its architects and the +wonderful capabilities of the Gothic style. + +The east window and screen have long been hidden by some large paintings +of Hogarth. The subjects of these are the Ascension, the Three Marys at +the Sepulchre, and the High Priest sealing Christ's Tomb. + +On a column in the south transept is a flat slab, with a long +inscription, in memory of Sir William Penn, father of William Penn, the +great founder of Pennsylvania. The column is adorned with his banner and +armor. + +The boys, who had so often read of Guy, Earl of Warwick, and of his +valorous exploits, were greatly pleased to find in this church, placed +against a pillar, a rib of the Dun cow which he is said to have slain. + +You may be very sure that we inquired for the room in which Chatterton +said he found old Monk Rowley's poems. It is an hexagonal room over the +north porch, in which the archives were kept Chatterton's uncle was +sexton of the church; and the boy had access to the building, and +carried off parchments at his pleasure. The idea of making a literary +forgery filled his mind; and if you read Southey and Cottle's edition of +the works of Chatterton, or, what is far better, an admirable Life of +the young poet by John Dix, a gifted son of Bristol, now living in +America, you will have an interesting view of the character of this +remarkable youth. + +[Illustration: Thomas Chatterton.] + +At the east end of the church is the Chapel of the Virgin Mary. A noble +room it is. A large statue of Queen Elizabeth, in wood, stands against +one of the windows, just where it did thirty-seven years ago, when I was +a youngster, and went to her majesty's grammar school, which is taught +in the chapel. I showed the boys the names of my old school-fellows cut +upon the desks. How various their fates! One fine fellow, whose name yet +lives on the wood, found his grave in the West Indies, on a voyage he +had anticipated with great joy. + +I am glad to say that a spirited effort is now making to restore this +gorgeous edifice. It was greatly needed, and was commenced in 1846. I do +wish you could see this church and gaze upon its interior. I have +obtained some fine drawings of parts of the edifice, and they will +enable you to form some faint idea of the splendor of the whole. We have +to dine with a friend, and I must close. + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 8. + + +BRISTOL. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +You have so often expressed a desire to see the fine cathedral churches +and abbeys of the old world, that I shall not apologize for giving you +an account of them; and as they are more in my way, I shall take them +into my hands, and let the lads write you about other things. The next +visit we took, after I wrote you last, was to the cathedral. This is of +great antiquity. In 1148, a monastery was dedicated to St. Augustine. +This good man sent one Jordan as a missionary in 603, and here he +labored faithfully and died. It seems, I think, well sustained that the +venerable Austin himself preached here, and that his celebrated +conference with the British clergy took place on College Green; and it +is thought that the cathedral was built on its site to commemorate the +event. The vicinity of the church is pleasing. The Fitzhardings, the +founders of the Berkeley family, began the foundation of the abbey in +1140, and it was endowed and dedicated in 1148. The tomb of Sir Robert, +the founder, lies at the east of the door, and is enclosed with rails. +Some of the buildings connected with the church are of great antiquity, +and are probably quite as old as the body of the cathedral. A gateway +leading to the cloisters and chapter-house is plainly Saxon, and is +regarded as the finest Saxon archway in England. The western part of the +cathedral was demolished by Henry VIII. The eastern part, which remains, +has a fine Gothic choir. This was created a bishop's see by Henry VIII. +It is interesting to think that Secker, Butler, and Newton have all been +bishops of this diocese, and Warburton, who wrote the Divine Legation of +Moses, was once Dean of Bristol. The immortal Butler, who wrote the +Analogy of Natural and Revealed Religion, lies buried here, and his +tombstone is on the south aisle, at the entrance of the choir. A +splendid monument has been erected to his memory, with the following +inscription from the pen of Robert Southey, himself a Bristolian:-- + + Sacred + to the Memory of + JOSEPH BUTLER, D.C.L., + twelve years Bishop of this Diocese, + afterwards of Durham, whose mortal remains + are here deposited. Others had established + the historical and prophetical grounds of the + Christian Religion, and that true testimony of Truth + which is found in its perfect adaptation to the heart + of man. It was reserved for him to develop its + analogy to the constitution and course of Nature; + and laying his strong foundations + in the depth of that great argument, + there to construct another and + irrefragable proof; thus rendering + Philosophy subservient + to Faith, and finding + in outward and + visible things + the type and evidence of those within the veil. + + Born, A.D. 1693. Died, 1752. + +We noticed a very fine monument by Bacon to the memory of Mrs. Draper, +said to have been the Eliza of Sterne. We hastened to find the +world-renowned tomb of Mrs. Mason, and to read the lines on marble of +that inimitable epitaph, which has acquired a wider circulation than any +other in the world. The lines were written by her husband, the Rev. +William Mason. + + "Take, holy earth, all that my soul holds dear; + Take that best gift which Heaven so lately gave. + To Bristol's fount I bore with trembling care + Her faded form; she bowed to taste the wave, + And died. Does youth, does beauty read the line? + Does sympathetic fear their breasts alarm? + Speak, dead Maria; breathe a strain divine; + E'en from the grave thou shalt have power to charm. + Bid them be chaste, be innocent, like thee; + Bid them in duty's sphere as meekly move; + And if so fair, from vanity as free, + As firm in friendship, and as fond in love,-- + Tell them, though 'tis an awful thing to die, + (Twas e'en to thee,) yet, the dread path once trod, + Heaven lifts its everlasting portals high, + And bids the pure in heart behold their God." + +In the cloisters we saw the tomb of Bird the artist, a royal +academician, and a native of Bristol. We were much interested with a +noble bust of Robert Southey, the poet, which has just been erected in +the north aisle. It stands on an octangular pedestal of gray marble, +with Gothic panels. The bust is of the most exquisitely beautiful +marble. The inscription is in German text. + + Robert Southey, + Born in Bristol, + October 4, 1774; + Died at Reswick, + March 21, 1843. + +[Illustration: Robert Southey] + +The cloisters contain some fine old rooms, which recall the days of the +Tudors. Here we saw the apartments formerly occupied by the learned and +accomplished Dr. Hodges, now organist of Trinity Church, New York. This +gentleman is a native of Bristol, and is held, we find, in respectful +and affectionate remembrance by the best people of this city. + +Opposite to the cathedral, and on the other side of the college green, +is the Mayor's Chapel, where his honor attends divine service. In +Catholic days, this was the Church and Hospital of the Virgin Mary. This +edifice was built by one Maurice de Gaunt in the thirteenth century. +Under the tower at the east front is a small door, by which you enter +the church, and on the north another, by which you enter a small room, +formerly a confessional, with two arches in the walls for the priest and +the penitent. In this room are eight niches, in which images once stood. +The roof is vaulted with freestone, in the centre of which are two +curious shields and many coats of arms. In 1830, this chapel was +restored and beautified. A fine painted window was added, and the altar +screen restored to its former beauty, at the expense of the corporation. +The front of the organ gallery is very rich in Gothic moulding, tracery, +crockets, &c. It is flanked at the angles with octagonal turrets, of +singular beauty, embattled, and surmounted with canopies, crockets, &c. +The spandrils, quatrefoils, buttresses, sculptures, and cornices are +exceedingly admired. The pulpit is of stone, and the mayor's throne, of +carved oak, is of elaborate finish. Here are two knights in armor, with +their right hands on their sword hilts, on the left their shields, _with +their legs crossed,_ which indicates that they were crusaders. + +In every excursion around Bristol, the boys were struck with the fact +that an old tower was visible on a high hill. The hill is called Dundry, +and it is said that it can be seen every where for a circle of five +miles round the city. Dundry is five miles from Bristol, and fourteen +from Bath, and it commands the most beautiful and extensive prospect in +the west of England. We rode out to it with an early friend of mine, who +is now the leading medical man of Bristol; and when I tell you that we +went in an Irish jaunting car, you may guess that we were amused. The +seats are at the sides, and George was in ecstasies at the novelty of +the vehicle. When oh the summit, we saw at the north and east the cities +of Bath and Bristol, and our view included the hills of Wiltshire, and +the Malvern Hills of Worcestershire. The Severn, from north to west, is +seen, embracing the Welsh coast, and beyond are the far-famed mountains +of Wales. The church has a fine tower, with turreted pinnacles fifteen +feet above the battlements. We rode over to Chew Magna, a village two +miles beyond Dundry. Here I went to a boarding school thirty-eight +years ago, and I returned to the village for the first time. It had +altered but little. The streets seemed narrower; but there was the old +tower where I had played fives, and there was the cottage where I bought +fruit; and when I entered it, Charley, I found "young Mr. Batt"-a man of +eighty-six. His father used to be "old Mr. Batt," and he always called +his son his "boy," and we boys termed him "young Mr. Batt." I came back +and found him eighty-six. So do years fly away. I called on one old +school-fellow, some years my junior. He did not recognize me, but I at +once remembered him. We partook of a lunch at his house. I was sadly +disappointed to find the old boarding school gone, but was not a little +relieved when I heard that it had given place to a Baptist church. I +confess I should have liked to occupy its pulpit for one Sabbath day. +To-morrow we are to spend at Clifton, the beautiful environ of Bristol, +and shall most likely write you again. + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 9. + + +BRISTOL. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Clifton and the Hot Wells are the suburbs of this city, extending along +for a mile or two on the banks of the Avon. One mile below the city the +Avon passes between the rocks which are known as St. Vincent's on the +one side, and Leigh Woods upon the opposite one. These rocks are amongst +the sublimities of nature, and the Avon for about three miles presents +the wildest and sweetest bit of scenery imaginable. These cliffs have +been for ages the admiration of all beholders, and though thousands of +tons are taken from the quarries every year, yet the inhabitants say +that no great change takes place in their appearance. The Avon has a +prodigious rise of tide at Bristol, and at low water the bed of the +river is a mere brook, with immense banks of mud. The country all around +is exquisitely attractive, and affords us an idea of cultivation and +adornment beyond what we are accustomed to at home. In these rocks are +found fine crystals, which are known every where as Bristol diamonds. We +obtained some specimens, which reminded us of the crystals so frequently +seen at Little Falls, on the Mohawk. The great celebrity of the Hot +Wells is chiefly owing to a hot spring, which issues from the rock, and +possesses valuable medical qualities. + +This spring had a reputation as early as 1480. It discharges about forty +gallons per minute, and was first brought into notice by sailors, who +found it useful for scorbutic disorders. In 1680 it became famous, and a +wealthy merchant rendered it so by a dream. He was afflicted with +diabetes, and dreamed that he was cured by drinking the water of this +spring. He resorted to the imagined remedy, and soon recovered. Its fame +now spread, and, in 1690, the corporation of Bristol took charge of the +spring. We found the water, fresh from the spring, at the temperature of +Fahrenheit 76°. It contains free carbonic acid gas. Its use is seen +chiefly in cases of pulmonary consumption. I suppose it has wrought +wonders in threatening cases. It is the place for an _invalid_ who +_begins to fear_, but it is not possible to "create a soul under the +ribs of death." Unhappily, people in sickness too seldom repair to such +aid as may here be found till the last chances of recovery are +exhausted. I have never seen a spot where I thought the fragile and +delicate in constitution might pass a winter, sheltered from every +storm, more securely than in this place. Tie houses for accommodation +are without end, both at the Hot Wells and at Clifton. This last place +is on the high ground, ascending up to the summit of the rocks, where +you enter on a noble campus known as Durdham Down. This extends for some +three or four miles, and is skirted by charming villages, which render +the environs of Bristol so far-famed for beauty. + +I never wished to have your company more than when we all ascended the +height of St. Vincent's Rocks. The elevation at which we stood was about +three hundred and fifty feet above the winding river which, it is +thought, by some sudden convulsion of nature, turned from the moors _of_ +Somersetshire, its old passage to the sea, and forced an abrupt one +between the rocks and the woods; and the corresponding dip of the +strata, the cavities on one side, and projections on the other, make the +supposition very plausible. A suspension bridge over this awful chasm is +in progress. + +The celebrated pulpit orator, Robert Hall, always spoke of the scenery +of this region as having done very much in his early days to form his +notions of the beautiful. In one of his most admirable sermons, preached +at Bristol, when discoursing upon "the new heavens and the new earth," +he indulged in an astonishing outbreak of eloquence, while he conducted +his audience to the surpassing beauties of their own vicinage, +sin-ruined as it was, and then supposed that this earth might become the +dwelling-place of the redeemed, when, having been purified from all +evil, it should again become "very good." Here, on these scenes of +unrivalled beauty, Southey, and Lovell, and Coleridge, and Cottle have +loved to meditate; and the wondrous boy Chatterton fed his muse amid +these rare exhibitions of the power and wisdom of the Godhead. A Roman +encampment is still visible on the summit of the rocks. We were all +sorry, to see such havoc going on among the quarries, where, to use +Southey's language on this subject, they are "selling off the sublime +and beautiful by the boat load." + +[Illustration: Samuel Taylor Coleridge.] + +Our favorite walk is on the downs. George seems really penetrated with +the uncommon beauty of the region, and wants to stop as long as +possible, and does not believe any thing can be more beautiful. We look +over the awful cliffs--gaze on the thread of water winding its devious +course at an immense distance below--watch the steamers from Wales and +Ireland shoot up to the city, and the noble West Indiamen, as they are +towed along. The woods opposite are charming, and contain nearly every +forest-tree belonging to the country. Dr. Holland, in his travels +through Greece, refers to this very spot in the following language: "The +features of nature are often best described by comparison; and to those +who have visited Vincent's Rocks, below Bristol, I cannot convey a more +sufficient idea of the far-famed Vale of Tempe than by saying that its +scenery resembles, though on a much larger scale, that of the former +place. The Peneus, indeed, as it flows through the valley, is not +greatly wider than the Avon, and the channel between the cliffs +irregularly contracted in its dimensions; but these cliffs themselves +are much loftier and more precipitous, and project their vast masses of +rock with still more extraordinary abruptness over the hollow beneath." +We devoted a morning to visit Leigh Court, the residence of Mr. Miles, a +wealthy merchant and member in Parliament for Bristol. This is regarded +as one of the finest residences in the west of England. The mansion has +an Ionic portico, supported by massive columns. The great hall is very +extensive. A double flight of steps leads you to a peristyle of the +Ionic order, around which are twenty marble columns, supporting a lofty +dome, lighted by painted glass. The floor is of colored marble. This +residence has been enriched with the choicest treasures from Wanstead +House, and Fonthill Abbey. To us the grand attraction was the Picture +Gallery, which has few superiors in the kingdom. A catalogue, with +etchings, was published a few years ago. You may judge of the merits of +the collection, and the nature of our gratification, when I tell you +that here are the Conversion of Paul, by Rubens; the Graces, by Titian; +William Tell, by Holbein; Pope Julius II., by Raphael; Ecce Homo, by +Carl Dolci; Head of the Virgin, by Correggio; St. Peter, by Guido; St. +John, by Domenichino; Creator Mundi, by Leonardo da Vinci; Crucifixion, +by Michael Angelo; Plague of Athens, by N. Poussin; three Seaports, by +Claude; and a large number by Rembrandt, Salvator Rosa, Paul Potter, +Parmegiano, Velasques, Gerard Dow, &c. This has been a most gratifying +excursion, and our visit here will be a matter of pleasant recollection. +I forgot to say that at Clifton, and at various places near the rocks, +we were beset by men, women, and children, having very beautiful +polished specimens of the various stones found in the quarries, together +with minerals and petrifactions. Of these we all obtained an assortment. + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 10. + + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We have while at Bristol made two journeys to Bath, and I am sure we are +all of opinion that it is the most elegant city we ever saw. A great +deal of its beauty is owing to the fine freestone of which it is chiefly +built. + +We were much pleased with the Royal Crescent, which consists of a large +number of elegant mansions, all built in the same style. Ionic columns +rise from a rustic basement, and support the superior cornice. These +houses are most elegantly finished. All the city is seen from the +crescent, and no other spot affords so grand a prospect. Camden Place is +an elliptical range of edifices, commanding an extensive view of the +valley, with the winding stream of the Avon, and the villages upon its +banks. One of the principal features of Bath is its hills and downs, +which shelter it on every side. The sides on these downs are very fine, +extending for miles, and you see thousands of sheep enjoying the finest +possible pasturage. Talking of sheep, I am reminded how very fine the +sheep are here; it seems to me they are almost as big again as our +mutton-makers. + +Queen Square, in Bath, pleases us all, as we are told it does every one. +It stands up high, and is seen from most parts of the city. From north +to south, between the buildings, if is three hundred and sixteen feet, +and from east to west three hundred and six feet. In the centre is an +enclosure, and in that is a fine obelisk. The north side of the square +is composed of stately dwellings, and they have all the appearance of a +palace. The square is built of freestone, and is beautifully tinted by +age. The first thing almost we want to see in these fine towns is the +cathedral, if there be one. I never thought that I should be so pleased +with old buildings as I find I am. Old houses, castles, and churches +have somehow strangely taken my fancy. The Cathedral, or, as they here +call it, the Abbey Church, is a noble one. It was begun in 1495, and +only finished in 1606, and stands on the foundation of an old convent, +erected by Osric in 676. It is famous for its clustered columns, and +wide, elegantly arched windows. The roof is remarkable for having +fifty-two windows, and I believe has been called the Lantern of England. +You know that the city takes its name from its baths. The great resort +of fashion is at the Pump-room and the Colonnade. This building is +eighty-five feet in length, forty-six wide, and thirty-four high. This +elegant room is open to the sick of every part of the world. An +excellent band plays every day from one till half past three. + +The King's Bath is a basin sixty-six feet by forty-one, and will contain +three hundred and forty-six tuns. I have been much pleased with Dr. +Granville's works on the Spas of England, and there you will find much +interesting matter respecting Bath. + +We made some pleasant excursions in the vicinity of this beautiful city. +We have visited Bradford, Trowbridge, and Devizes. Trowbridge is a fine +old town, and we looked with interest at the church where the poet +Crabbe so long officiated. His reputation here stands high as a good man +and kind neighbor, but he was called a poor preacher. Here, and in all +the neighboring places, the manufacture of broadcloths and cassimeres is +carried on extensively. Devizes is a charming old town. We were greatly +interested with its market-place, and a fine cross, erected to hand down +the history of a sad event. A woman who had appealed to God in support +of a lie was here struck dead upon the spot, and the money which she +said she had paid for some wheat was found clinched in her hand. This +monument was built by Lord Sidmouth, and is a fine freestone edifice, +with a suitable inscription. + +Roundaway Down, which hangs over this ancient town, was famous in the +civil wars of Charles I. Here, too, are the relics of an old castle. +Devizes has two great cattle fairs, in spring and autumn; and the market +day, on Thursday, gave us a good idea of the rural population. We have +rarely seen finer looking men than were here to be seen around their +wheat, barley, and oats. We have been pleased to see the great English +game of cricket, which is so universally played by all young men in this +country. It seems to us that the boys here have more athletic games than +with us. Prisoners' bass seems a favorite boys' amusement, and ninepins, +or, as we call it, bowls, are played by all classes freely, and it is +not regarded as at all unministerial. We are going to London this week, +and shall commence sight-seeing in earnest. Above all, we are to be at +the exhibition. When I have seen the lions, I will write you again. + +Yours affectionately, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 11. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +The story goes that Mr. Webster, when he first arrived in London, +ordered the man to drive to the Tower. Certainly we boys all wanted to +go there as soon as possible. I do not think that I ever felt quite so +touch excitement as I did when we were riding to the Tower, I had so +many things crowding into my mind; and all the history of England with +which I have been so pleased came at once freshly into my memory. I +wanted to be alone, and have all day to wander up and down the old +prison and palace and museum, for it has been all these things by turns. +Well, we rode over Tower Hill, and got directly in front of the old +fortress, and had a complete view of it. + +In the centre stands a lofty square building, with four white towers, +having vanes upon them. This is said to be the work of William the +Conqueror, but has had many alterations under William Rufus, Henry I., +and Henry II. In 1315, the Tower was besieged by the barons who made war +on John. Henry III. made his residence in this place, and did much to +strengthen and adorn it. About this time the Tower began to be used as a +state prison. Edward I. enlarged the ditch or moat which surrounded the +Tower. In the days of Richard II., when the king had his troubles with +Wat Tyler, the Archbishop of Canterbury was beheaded on Tower Hill, or, +rather, massacred, for it said that he was mangled by eight strokes of +the axe. When Henry V. gained his great victory at Agincourt, he placed +his French prisoners here. Henry VIII. was here for some time after he +came to the throne, and he made his yeomen the wardens of the Tower, +and they still wear the same dress as at that day. The dress is very +rich,--scarlet and gold,--and made very large; the coat short, and +sleeves full. The head-dress is a cap. + +We went in at what is called the Lion's Gate, because some time back the +menagerie was kept in apartments close by. The kings of other days used +to have fights between the beasts, and James I. was very fond of combats +between lions and dogs in presence of his court. All these animals were +moved several years ago to the Zoölogical Gardens. We passed through +strong gates, defended by a portcullis, and on our left we saw what the +warden called the Bell Tower, and which was the prison of Bishop Fisher, +who was beheaded for not acknowledging Henry VIII. to be the head of the +church. I wanted to see the Traitor's Gate, and found it was on the +right hand, having a communication with the Thames under a bridge on the +wharf. Through this passage it was formerly the custom to convey the +state prisoners, and many a man in passing this gate bade farewell to +hope. + +There is, just opposite to this gate, the bloody tower where Edward V. +and his brother were put to death by the monster Richard, who usurped +the throne. I would have given a great deal to have explored the Tower, +but the things and places I wanted to look into were just what you are +not let see. The old Tower of English history you look at, but must not +go through. Still I have been delighted, but not satisfied. We found the +spot where the grand storehouse and armory were burnt in 1841, and, if I +recollect rightly, the warden said it was three hundred and fifty feet +long, and sixty wide. Here, I suppose, was the finest collection of +cannon and small fire-arms in the world. We saw some few fine specimens +that were saved. Of course, we were curious to see the Horse Armory. +This is a room one hundred and fifty feet in length, and about +thirty-five wide. Some one has said that here is "the History of +England, done in iron." All down the middle of the room is a line of +equestrian figures, and over each character is his banner. All the sides +of the apartment are decorated with trophies and figures in armor. I was +much gratified with the beautiful taste displayed in the arrangement of +the arms upon the walls and ceiling. Some of the suits of armor were +very rich, and answered exactly to my notions of such matters. Here I +saw, for the first time, the coat of mail; and I think the men of that +day must have been stronger than those of our time, or they never could +have endured such trappings. I was much pleased with the real armor of +Henry VIII. This suit was very rich, and damasked. And here, too, was +the very armor of Dudley, Earl of Leicester, who figured at the court +of Elizabeth. It weighs eighty-seven pounds; and close by it is the +martial suit of the unfortunate Essex. He was executed, you know, at +this place, 1601. Among the most beautiful armors we saw were the suits +of Charles I. and a small one which belonged to his younger brother when +a lad. I think one suit made for Charles when a boy of twelve would have +fitted me exactly; and wouldn't I have liked to become its owner! King +Charles's armor was a present from the city of London, and was one of +the latest manufactured in England. + +I do not think I ever was in a place that so delighted me. I cannot tell +you a hundredth part of the curiosities that are to be seen s all sorts +of rude ancient weapons; several instruments of torture prepared by the +Roman Catholics, at the time of the Spanish Armada, for the conversion +of the English heretics. One of these was the Iron Collar, which weighs +about fifteen pounds, and has a rim of inward spikes; and besides, we +saw a barbarous instrument, called the Scavenger's Daughter, which +packed up the body and limbs into an inconceivably small space. We +looked with deep interest, you may imagine, Charley, on the block on +which the Scotch lords, Balmerino, Kilmarnook, and Lovat, were beheaded +in 1746. The fatal marks upon the wood are deeply cut; and we had in our +hands the axe which was used at the execution of the Earl of Essex. I +shall read the history of this country, I am sure, with more pleasure +than ever, after walking over the yard and Tower Hill, where so many +great and good, as well as so many infamous, persons have suffered +death. Only think what a list of names to be connected with the +block--Fisher, More, Queen Anne Boleyn, Queen Catherine Howard, +Margaret, Countess of Salisbury, Cromwell and Devereux, both Earls of +Essex, the Duke of Somerset, Lady Jane Grey and her husband, the Duke of +Northumberland, Sir Walter Raleigh, Strafford, Laud,--all perished on +the Tower Green or on the Tower Hill. The spot is easily recognized +where the scaffold was erected. + +The regalia, or crown jewels, are kept in an apartment built on purpose +to contain these precious treasures. Here are the crowns that once +belonged to different sovereigns and heirs of the throne. At the death +of Charles I., the crown in use, and said to be as old as the times of +Edward the Confessor, was broken up, and a new one made at the +restoration of Charles II. The arches of this crown are covered with +large stones of different colors, and the cap of the crown is of purple +velvet. The old crown for the queen is of gold, set with diamonds of +great cost, and has some large pearls. There is a crown called "the +Diadem," which was made for James II.'s queen, adorned with diamonds, +and which cost just about half a million of dollars. The crown of the +Prince of Wales is plain gold. + +As for orbs, staffs, and sceptres, I can't tell you half the number. One +I noticed called "St. Edward's Staff," of gold, four feet seven inches +long. At the top is an orb and cross, and a fragment of the Savior's +cross is _said_ to be in the orb. Here, too, are all kinds of +swords--called swords of justice and mercy--and vessels to hold the oil +for anointing the monarch at coronation, and a saltcellar of gold which +is used at the same time, and is a model of the Tower. I thought all +this very fine; but I was most pleased with seeing such splendid +specimens of precious stones. Such diamonds, pearls, amethysts, +emeralds, &c., &c., we Yankee boys had never seen, and probably may +never see again. I was very much delighted with a large silver wine +fountain, presented by Plymouth to Charles II., and which is used at +coronation banquets; and also with the font, of silver gilt; used at the +baptism of the Queen. It stands about four feet high. Over all this show +that I have told you of is the state crown made for Victoria. This is +very brilliant, and in the centre of the diamond cross is a sparkling +sapphire, while in front of the crown is a large ruby which was worn by +the Black Prince. Well, Charley, my boy, I would rather go to +Washington and look at our old copy of the Declaration of Independence +than gaze for a whole day at this vast collection of treasure. There is +more to be proud of in that old camp equipage of Washington's up in the +patent office than in all the crown jewels of England--at least, so I +think, and so do you. + +Yours affectionately, + +GEORGE. + + + + +Letter 12. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +George has said his say about the Tower, he tells me; and I assure you +it was a time that we shall often think of when we get back. On our +return, the doctor proposed that we should visit the Thames Tunnel, +which was not far off; and so we went through a number of poor streets, +reminding us of the oldest parts of Boston round Faneuil Hall. The +tunnel connects Rotherhithe and Wapping. This last place, you know, we +have read about enough in Dibdin's Sea Songs, our old favorite. + +Several notions about this great idea have been entertained in past +years; but in 1814, Brunei, the great engineer, noticed the work of a +worm on a vessel's keel, where it had sawn its way longitudinally, and +he caught an idea. In 1833, he formed a "Thames Tunnel Company," and in +1825 he commenced operations, but it was not opened till 1843 for +passengers. There are no carriage approaches to it, and it is only +available to foot travellers. The ascent and descent is by shafts of, +perhaps, one hundred steps. I think I heard that the great work cost the +company, and government, who helped them, about half a million sterling. +The passages are all lighted up with gas, and in the way you find raree +shows of a dioramic character, and plenty of music, and not a few +venders of views and models of the tunnel. After leaving this river +curiosity, we went to see the new Houses of Parliament, which run along +the banks of the river, in close neighborhood to Westminster Abbey. I +felt disappointed at the first view, it is altogether so much like a +very large pasteboard model--such a thing as you often see in ladies' +fairs for charity. To my notion, the affair wants character; it is all +beautiful detail. The length is about oho thousand feet. The clock tower +is to be three hundred and twenty feet high. It is vain to describe the +building, which is far too immense and complicated for my pea. I never +was so bewildered in a place before. As I think you would like to have a +correct idea of the House of Lords, I will quote from the description +which was handed us on entering, but even then you will fail to +understand its gorgeous character. + +"Its length is ninety feet; height, forty-five feet, and width the +same; so that it is a double cube. It is lighted by twelve windows, six +on each side, each of which is divided by mullions into four, these +being intersected by a transom, making eight lights in each window, +which are made of stained glass, representing the kings and queens, +consort and regnant, since the Conquest. The ceiling is flat, and +divided into eighteen large compartments, which are subdivided by +smaller ribs into four, having at the intersection lozenge-shaped +compartments. The centre of the south end is occupied by the throne, +each side of which are doors opening into the Victoria Lobby. The throne +is elevated on steps. The canopy is divided into three compartments, the +centre one rising higher than the others, and having under it the royal +chair, which is a brilliant piece of workmanship; studded round the back +with crystals. The shape of the chair is similar in outline to that in +which the monarchs have been crowned, and which is in Westminster Abbey, +but, of course, widely different in detail and decoration. On each side +of this chair are others for Prince Albert and the Prince of Wales. At +the north end is the bar of the house, where appeals are heard, and the +Commons assemble when summoned on the occasion of the opening of +Parliament. Above the bar is the reporters' gallery, behind which is the +strangers', and round the sides of the House is another gallery, +intended for the use of peeresses, &c., on state occasions. + +"At the north and south ends of the house, above the gallery, are three +compartments, corresponding in size and shape to the windows, and +containing fresco paintings. Those at the north end are 'the Spirit of +Religion,' by J.C. Horsley; 'the Spirit of Chivalry' and 'the Spirit of +Justice,' by D. Maclise, R.A. Those at the south end, over the throne, +are 'the Baptism of Ethelbert,' by Dyce; 'Edward III. conferring the +Order of the Garter on the Black Prince,' and 'the Committal of Prince +Henry by Judge Gascoigne,' by C.W. Cope, R.A. Between the windows are +richly-decorated niches and canopies, which are to have bronze statues +in them. In casting the eye round the whole room, it is almost +impossible to detect scarcely a square inch which is not either carved +or gilded. The ceiling, with its massive gilded and decorated panels, +presents a most imposing and gorgeous effect, and one of truly royal +splendor. The St. Stephen's Hall is ninety-five feet long, thirty feet +wide, and sixty feet high; the roof is stone-groined, springing from +clustered columns running up the side of the hall. The bosses, at the +intersections of the main ribs, are carved in high relief, with +incidents descriptive of the life of Stephen. + +"This hall leads through a lofty archway into the central hall, which +is octagon in plan, having columns at the angles, from which spring ribs +forming a grand stone groin finishing in the centre, with an octagon +lantern, the bosses at the intersections of all the ribs elaborately +carved. The size of this hall is sixty-eight feet in diameter, and it is +sixty feet to the crown of the groin." + +The House of Commons, which is now in the course of completion, is quite +a contrast to the splendor of the House of Lords. Its length is +eighty-four feet; width, forty-five feet; and height, forty-three feet. +An oak gallery runs all round the house, supported by posts at +intervals, having carved heads, and spandrills supporting the main ribs. +The strangers' gallery is at the south end, in front of which is the +speaker's order gallery. At the north end is the reporters' gallery, +over which is the ladies' gallery--being behind a stone screen. The +libraries are fine rooms, looking out on the river. I have no time to +tell you of the beautiful refreshment rooms, excepting to say that the +one for the peers is one hundred feet long. I must not forget to say +that in the tower is to be a wondrous clock, the dial of which is to be +thirty feet in diameter! We went to see these buildings by an order from +the lord chamberlain. The total cost is estimated at between eight and +ten millions of dollars. It certainly is very rich, and looks finely +from the river; but it is unfortunately too near to the abbey, and wants +force. After leaving the Houses of Parliament, we went to Westminster +Hall, which has some of the finest historical recollections connected +with any public building in England. Really, I felt more awe in entering +this hall than I ever remember to have experienced. I cannot tell you +the size of it, but it is the largest room in Europe without a support, +and the span of the roof is the widest known. The roof, of chestnut, is +exceedingly fine. Only think, my dear fellow, what events have +transpired on this spot. The following trials took place here: Stafford, +Duke of Buckingham, for high treason, 1521; Sir Thomas More, 1535; Duke +of Somerset, for treason, 1552; Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, for his +attachment to Mary, Queen of Scots; Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex, +1601, and Earl of Southampton; Guy Fawkes and the Gun-powder Plot +conspirators; Robert Carr, Earl of Southampton, and his countess, for +murder of Sir Thomas Overbury, 1616; Wentworth, Earl of Strafford, 1641; +Archbishop Laud; Charles I., for his attacks upon the liberties of his +country, 1649; the seven bishops, in the reign of James II.; Dr. +Sacheverel, 1710; in 1716, the Earls Derwentwater, Nithisdale, and +Carnwath, and the Lords Widdington, Kenmure, and Nairn, for the +rebellion of 1715; Harley, Earl of Oxford, 1717; the Earls Cromartie +and Kilmarnock, and Lord Balmerino, 1746, for the rebellion of 1745; +Lord Lovat, 1747; William Lord Byron, for the death of William Chaworth +in a bloody duel, 1765; Lord Ferrers, for the murder of his steward; the +infamous Duchess of Kingston, for bigamy, 1776; and Warren Hastings, for +cruelty in his office as Governor of India, 1788. + +And besides all this, here have been the coronation feasts of all +England's monarchs, from William Rufus, who built it in 1099, down to +George IV., 1820. Sad times and merry ones have been here. We stepped +from the hall into the courts of law, which have entrances from this +apartment, and we saw the lord chancellor on the bench in one, and the +judges sitting in another. The courts were small, and not very imposing +in their appearance. + +Yours truly, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 13. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +O, we have had a noble treat; and how I longed for your company, as we +spent hour after hour in the British Museum. The building is very fine, +but the inside--that is every thing. The entire front is, I think, about +four hundred feet, and I reckoned forty-four columns forming a +colonnade; these are forty-five feet high. The portico is now receiving +magnificent sculpture in relief; and when the whole is finished, and the +colossal statues surmount the pediment, and the fine iron palisadoes, +now erecting, are completed, I think the edifice will be among the +finest in the world. The entrance hall is most imposing, and the ceiling +is richly painted in encaustic. The staircases are very grand, and their +side walls are cased with red Aberdeen granite, brought to an exquisite +polish. To describe the British Museum would be a vain attempt. In the +hall are several fine statues. Especially did we admire the one of +Shakspeare by Roubilliac, and given by Garrick. We soon found our way to +the Nineveh Gallery, and were wide awake to look after the relics of +Nineveh dug up by Layard on the banks of the Tigris. Here is a monstrous +human head, having bull's horns and ears, many fragments of horses' +heads, bulls, &c., &c. The colossal figure of the king is very grand, +and discovers great art. There is also a fine colossal priest, and the +war sculptures are of the deepest interest. Then we went to the Lycian +Room. The sculptures here were found at Xanthus, in Lycia. These ruins +claim a date of five hundred years before Christ. Here are some +exquisite fragments of frieze, describing processions, entertainments, +sacrifices, and female figures of great beauty. + +In the Grand Saloon are numerous Roman remains of sculpture. In the +Phigalian Saloon are marbles found at a temple of Apollo, near Phigalia, +in Arcadia, in 1814. The Elgin Saloon is devoted to the magnificent +marbles taken in 1804, from temples at Athens, by the Earl of Elgin, and +were purchased by Parliament for thirty-five thousand pounds. They are +chiefly ornaments from the Parthenon, a Doric temple built in the time +of Pericles, B.C. 450, by Phidias. No one can fail to be impressed with +the great beauty of these conceptions. The famous Sigean inscription is +written in the most ancient of Greek letters, boustrophedon-wise; that +is, the lines follow each other as oxen turn from one furrow to another +in ploughing. + +There are five galleries devoted to natural history, and are named thus: +the Botanical Museum, Mammalia Gallery, Eastern Zoölogical Gallery, +Northern Zoölogical Gallery, and the Mineral Gallery. The specimens in +all these are very fine. Nothing can be finer than the mammalia. The +preservation has been perfect, and far surpasses what I have been +accustomed to see in museums, where decay seems to be often rioting upon +the remains of nature. The department of ornithology is wonderful, and I +could have enjoyed a whole day in examining the birds of all climates. +In conchology the collection is very rich. I do not often get such a +gratification as I had among the portraits which are hanging on the +walls of these galleries. The very men I had heard so much of, and read +about, were here lifelike, painted by the best artists of their day. I +was much pleased with the picture of Mary, Queen of Scots, by Jansen; of +Cromwell, by Walker; of Queen Elizabeth, by Zucchero; of Charles II., by +Lely; of Sir Isaac Newton; of Lord Bacon; of Voltaire; of John +Guttenburg; and of Archbishop Cranmer. As to the library and the MSS., +what shall I say? The collection of books is the largest in the kingdom, +and valuable beyond calculation. It amounts to seven hundred thousand. +We looked at illuminated gospels, Bibles, missals, till we were +bewildered with the gold and purple splendor; and then we walked from +one glass case to another, gazing upon autographs that made us +heart-sick when we thought of our juvenile treasures in this line. If +ever I did covet any thing, it was some old scraps of paper which had +the handwriting of Milton, Cromwell, Luther, Melancthon, Erasmus, and a +long _et cætera_ of such worthies. You know how much we love medals and +coins; well, here we revelled to our heart's delight. Country after +country has its history here, beautifully illustrated. The museum has +two spacious rooms devoted to reading, and the access to these treasures +is very liberal. + +If I could stay in London one year, I should certainly propose to spend +three or four months in study and research at the British Museum; nor do +I imagine that it would be lost time. It seems to me that such a place +must make scholars; but I know, by my own painful recollection, that +opportunities for improvement are not always valued as they should be. I +have been much struck lately with the thought that men of leisure are +not the men who do much in literature. It never has been so. Here and +there a rich man cultivates his mind; but it is your busy men who leave +the mark upon the age. + +While in the museum, we were shown Lord Chief Justice Campbell, the +author of the Lives of the Chancellors, &c. He is a working-man, if +there be one in England, and yet he finds time to elaborate volume upon +volume. I feel ashamed when I think how little I have acquired, how very +little I know that I might have understood, and what immensely larger +acquisitions have been made by those who have never enjoyed half my +advantages. There is a boy, only fifteen, who resorts to this museum, +and is said to understand its contents better than most of its visitors; +and a livery servant, some few years ago, used to spend all his hours of +leisure here, and wrote some excellent papers upon historical subjects. +If I have gained any good by my journey yet, it is the conviction, I +feel growing stronger every day, that I must work, and that every one +must work, in order to excel. It seems to me that we are in a fair way +to learn much in our present tour, for every day's excursion becomes a +matter of regular study when we come to our journal, which is now kept +posted up daily, as a thing of course. We are trying, at all events, to +make ourselves so familiar with the great attractions of London, that in +future life we may understand the affairs of the city when we hear of +them. + +Yours affectionately, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 14. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Ever since we reached London, I have wanted to go to Woolwich, the great +naval arsenal and dockyard, because I expected I should obtain a pretty +good idea of the power of the British navy; and then I like to compare +such places with our own; and I have often, at Brooklyn Navy Yard, +thought how much I should like to see Woolwich. Woolwich is one the +Thames, and about ten miles from the city. You can go at any hour by +steamer from London Bridge, or take the railway from the Surrey side of +the bridge. We were furnished with a ticket of admission from our +minister; but unfortunately, we came on a day when the yard was closed +by order. We were sadly disappointed, but the doorkeeper, a very +respectable police officer, told us that our only recourse was to call +on the commanding officer, who lived a mile off, and he kindly gave us a +policeman as a guide. On our way, we met the general on horseback, +attended by some other officers. We accosted him, and told our case. He +seemed sorry, but said the yard was closed. As soon as we mentioned that +we came from America, he at once gave orders for our admission, and was +very polite. Indeed, on several occasions we have found that our being +from the United States has proved quite a passport. + +We had a special government order to go over all the workshops and see +the steam power, &c., &c. I think I shall not soon forget the wonderful +smithery where the Nasmyth hammers are at work, employed in forging +chain cables and all sorts of iron work for the men-of-war. We went in +succession through the founderies for iron and brass, the steam boiler +manufactory, and saw the planing machines and lathes; and as to all the +other shops and factories, I can only say, that the yard looked like a +city. + +We were much pleased with the ships now in progress. One was the screw +steamer, the Agamemnon, to have eighty-guns. There, too, is the Royal +Albert, of one hundred and twenty guns, which they call the largest ship +in the world. Of course, we think this doubtful. It has been nine years +in progress, and will not be finished for three more. It is to be +launched when the Prince of Wales attains the rank of post captain. We +saw, among many other curiosities, the boat in which Sir John Ross was +out twenty-seven days in the ice. We went into an immense building +devoted to military stores, and in one room we saw the entire +accoutrements for ten thousand cavalry, including bridles, saddles, and +stirrups, holsters, &c. + +The yard is a very large affair, containing very many acres; it is the +depository of the cannon belonging to the army and navy for all the +region, and there were more than twenty thousand pieces lying upon the +ground. Some were very large, and they were of all varieties known in +war. + +After a delightful hour spent in listening to the best martial music I +ever heard played, by the band, we took steamboat for Greenwich, and, +landing there, walked to Blackheath, where we had an engagement to dine +at Lee Grove with a London merchant. Here we had a fine opportunity to +witness the luxury and elegance of English social life. This gentleman, +now in the decline of life, has an exquisitely beautiful place, situated +in a park of some sixty acres. The railroad has been run through his +estate, and, of course, has made it very much more valuable for +building; but as it injures the park for the embellishment of the +mansion, it was a fair subject for damages, and the jury of reference +gave its proprietor the pretty verdict of eleven thousand pounds. At the +table we had the finest dessert which the hothouse can furnish. Our host +gave us a very interesting account of his travels in America more than +forty years ago. A journey from New York to Niagara, as related by this +traveller, was then far more of an undertaking than a journey from New +Orleans to New York, and a voyage thence to England, at the present +time. + +In the evening, we took the cars for London, and reached our comfortable +hotel, the Golden Cross, Charing Cross, at eleven o'clock. By the way, +we are all very much pleased with the house and its landlord. Mr. +Gardiner is a very gentlemanly man, of fine address and acquirements. He +has been a most extensive traveller in almost every part of the world, +and has a fine collection of paintings, and one of the prettiest +cabinets of coins and medals I ever saw. He has a pretty cottage and +hothouses four or five miles from the city; and his family resides +partly there and at the hotel. The hotel is every thing that can be +desired. + +A few evenings ago, Mr. Lawrence had a splendid _soirée_. There were +probably from two to three hundred present. Among the company were Sir +David Brewster, Leslie the artist, Miss Coutts, the Duke of Wellington. +"The duke," as he is called, is the great man of England. All the people +idolize him, and he is known to be a great man. He has become more +identified with the history of England for the last forty years than any +other man. Of course, he was to us Americans the great man of the +country. Whenever I have read of Napoleon, I have had Wellington in my +eye, and to see him was next to seeing the emperor. I never expected the +pleasure, but here it is allotted me. He is quite an old man in his +bearing and gait. He was dressed in a blue coat with metal buttons, wore +his star and garter, and had on black tights and shoes. He had been to +the opera, and then came to this party. Every one pays the most +deferential homage to the old hero. Waterloo and its eventful scenes +came directly before me, and I felt almost impatient for our visit to +the battle-field. + +A gentleman who knows the duke told us that he spends from four to five +hours every morning at the Horse Guards in the performance of his duties +as commander-in-chief. Although he looks so feeble in the drawing-room, +he sits finely on his horse; and when I saw him riding down Piccadilly, +he seemed to be full twenty years younger than he was the day before at +the party. + +We shall always be glad that we came to England in time to see "the +duke," and if we live twenty or thirty years, it will be pleasant to +say "I have seen the Duke of Wellington." + +Yours affectionately, + +GEORGE. + + + + +Letter 15. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +I know how curious you are to hear all about the royal exhibition, so I +shall do my best to give you such an account of our visits to it as may +enable you to get a bird's eye view of the affair. + +Almost as soon as I arrived, I determined upon securing season tickets +for the boys, in order that they might not only see the pageant of the +opening on the 1st of May, but also have frequent opportunities to +attend the building and study its contents before the reduced prices +should so crowd the palace as to render examination and study nearly +impracticable. However, there came a report through all the daily papers +that the queen had abandoned the idea of going in person to inaugurate +the exhibition, and the sale of tickets flagged, and it was thought +prices would be reduced below the three guineas, which had been the +rate. I left London for a few days without purchasing, and on my return +I called for four season tickets, when, to my surprise, I was told that, +just an hour before, orders had been given from the board to raise them +to four guineas. I at once purchased them, although I regarded the +matter as an imposition. A few days after, Prince Albert revoked the +action of the board, and orders were issued to refund the extra guinea +to all who had purchased at the advanced price. This was easily +ascertained by reference to the number on the ticket, and registered at +purchase with the autograph of the proprietor. Of course, we saved our +four guineas. + +For several days before the 1st of May all London, I may say all +England, and almost all the world was on tiptoe. Every man, woman, and +child talked of "the Crystal Palace, the great exhibition, the queen, +and prince Albert." + +For a week or two there had been a succession of cold rain storms. +Winter had lingered in the lap of April. Men were looking at the 1st of +May with gloomy anticipations of hail, rain, snow, and sleet. Barometers +were in demand. The 30th of April gave a hail storm! The 1st of May +arrives,--_the day,_--and lo! + + "Heaven is clear, + And all the clouds are gone." + +It was as though the windows of heaven were opened to let the glory from +above stream through and bless Industry's children, who are about to +celebrate their jubilee. The queen, it is said, has a charm as regards +the weather. I heard many exclaim, "It is the queen's weather; it is +always her luck." Such a sight as that day afforded was never before +witnessed, and such a spectacle will probably never again be gazed upon. +The streets were thronged early. Every westward artery of the great city +pulsated with the living tide that flowed through it. From the far east, +where the docks border the Thames, came multitudes, though not exactly +stars in the hemisphere of fashion. Ladies in the aristocratic precincts +of Belgravia rose at an early hour, and, for once, followed the queen's +good, every-day example. The lawyers rushed from Lincoln's and Gray's +Inns of Court. The Royal Exchange was so dull at ten o'clock that the +very grasshopper on its vane might have been surprised. Holborn was +crammed at when in olden time people pressed, and struggled, and strove +to see Jack Sheppard, Joshua Wild, Dick Turpin, or any such worthies on +their sad way to Tyburn. But it is no gibbet now allures the morbid +multitude. They are gayly, gently, and gladly travelling to the home of +industry. Among all the pleasant sights that every moment delighted us +none were more pleasant than the happy family groups, who, on every +side, "push along, keep moving." Just see that mechanic; he looks as +proud as a lord,--and why shouldn't he be?--with his wife leaning +trustingly, lovingly on his arm. He, good man, has thrown away the saw, +or plane, or any other tool of handicraft, and now his little boy--O, +the delight, the wonder in that boy's face!--is willingly dragged along. +Well, on we go,--driving across what you would call impassable streets, +and lo! we are wedged up in a crowd,--and such a crowd,--a crowd of all +nations. + +At length we reach the palace gates; and there, who can tell the press +and strife for entrance. Long and nobly did the police struggle and +resist, but at length the outward pressure was omnipotent, and the full +tide of lucky ones with season tickets gained, entrance into, not the +palace, but the enclosure. Then came order,--breathing space,--tickets +were examined, and places assigned on cards, given as we entered into +the palace itself. We all obtained good positions--very good ones. This +was at eleven o'clock. At about a quarter to twelve, one standing near +to us remarked, "She will be to her time; she always is." And he was +right; for scarcely had he prophesied before a prolonged shouting told +that the queen was coming. "Plumes in the light wind dancing" were the +outward and visible signs of the Life Guards, who came gently trotting +up. Then came four carriages,--the coachmen and footmen of which were so +disguised with gold lace, and wigs, and hair powder, that their mothers +wouldn't have known them,--and then the queen--not robed and tricked +out like the queens in children's story books, so dreadful as to +resemble thunderbolts in petticoats; not hooped, and furbelowed, and +stomachered, and embroidered all over, as was Elizabeth; nor with a cap, +like Mary, Queen of Scots; not with eight horses prancing before the +queen's carriage, but in her private carriage, drawn by two horses. Off +went all hats. I wish you could have heard the cheering as the queen +entered the wondrous building. O, it was like "the voice of many +waters." Such deep, prolonged, hearty cheering I never, heard. As +Victoria entered, up went the standard of England, and never before did +its folds wave over such a scene. The entrance of majesty was the signal +for the organ to play; the vitreous roof vibrates as the sounds fly +along the transparent aisles; and we had musical glasses on a large +scale. It would require the pen of our favorite Christopher North to +describe the magnificent scene when the queen ascended the throne, +surrounded by all the elegance and nobility of her kingdom. Her husband +reads an address; she replies; the venerable archbishop dedicates the +Temple of Industry. The queen declares the palace opened, and the +procession is formed to walk through its aisles. No small task this; but +then thirty thousand persons are waiting to gaze on the queen and her +court. A ludicrous sight it was to see two of England's proudest peers +walking backward before the queen. The Marquis of Westminster and Earl +of Breadalbane performed this feat, and glad enough must they have been +when they received their dismission. The heralds, some twelve or +fourteen, in black velvet, looked finely. The queen walked like a queen, +and bore herself nobly and womanly. She is a small figure, fair face, +light hair, large, full, blue eyes, plump cheek, and remarkably fine +neck and bust. She leaned upon her husband's right arm, holding in her +hand the Prince of Wales, while Prince Albert led the princess royal. I +was sadly disappointed in the appearance of the Prince of Wales. He is +altogether a feeble-looking child, and cannot have much mental force. +The princess is a fine, energetic-looking girl. We stood within a yard +of the royal party as it passed bowing along. Then came the members of +the royal family; and then visitors from Prussia and Holland; the ladies +and gentlemen of the queen's household; the cabinet ministers; the +foreign ministers; the archbishop in his robe, and the members of the +royal commission; the lord mayor of London, and the aldermen. There, +too, was Paxton, the architect of this great wonder. It was his day of +triumph, and every one seemed to be glad for his fortune. All these were +in gorgeous court dresses. I have seen all sorts and kinds of show, but +never did I witness such a spectacle as was this day afforded to the +congress of the world. The Duke of Wellington, and his companion in +arms, the Marquis of Anglesea, walked arm in arm, "par nobilis fratrum." +It was Wellington's birthday. He is eighty-two, and Anglesea eighty-one. +The Marquis walks well for a man of his age, and who has to avail +himself of an artificial leg. They were most enthusiastically cheered in +all parts of the house. In the diplomatic corps there was great splendor +of costume, but no man carried himself more stately than did Mr. +Lawrence, whose fine, manly figure admirably becomes a court dress. I do +not think that I ever saw a collection of ladies so plain and homely as +the court ladies of Queen Victoria, who walked behind her in procession. +The Duchess of Sutherland has been renowned for her majestic beauty; but +she is _passe_, and her friends are, I think, matchless for entire +destitution of personal charms. But there was enough present to atone +for the want of this in the royal circle. Some of the most exquisite +faces I ever saw were there in those galleries, and forms of beauty that +can hardly be surpassed. I was much surprised at noticing in the vast +crowd, known to be about thirty thousand, that there were so few lads. I +do not believe there were more than ten or fifteen in the palace; and, +as we have already said, the absence of lads is owing to their all being +at boarding-schools. Our boys, you may well suppose, are greatly +pleased with having witnessed the greatest pageant of the age, and one +that can never be surpassed. We shall soon be at the exhibition again, +and apply ourselves to a careful survey of its interesting contents. + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 16. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Now that the excitement consequent on the opening of the Crystal Palace +has in some degree subsided and curiosity to a certain extent satisfied, +we are enabled to obtain more lucid ideas of this extraordinary building +and its wondrous contents. The admission for several days was one pound, +and at this high price the visitors were of the most fashionable +character. We have been much pleased in looking at the very fine +equipages that throng the roads around the park. The carriages, horses, +end liveries are in the best possible taste. When we entered, the palace +was no longer heightened in splendor by the presence of the sovereign +and her brilliant court. The superb canopy which overshadowed the _dais_ +on which the gorgeous chair had stood, alone remained to indicate that +there England's queen had performed the inaugural rites; but the great +facts of the exhibition remained. The crystal fountain still played, the +magnificent elms appeared in their spring garniture of delicate green +beneath the lofty transept, and the myriad works of skill, art, and +science lay around, above, and beneath us. I entered the building by its +eastern door, and, immediately on passing the screen which interposes +between the ticket offices and the interior, the whole extent of the +palace of glass lay before me. Fancy yourself standing at the end of a +broad avenue, eighteen hundred and fifty feet in length, roofed with +glass, and bounded laterally by gayly-decorated, slender pillars. The +effect was surpassingly beautiful. Right and left of this splendid nave +were other avenues, into which the eyes wandered at will; for no walls, +no barriers are to be found in the whole building; all is open, from +floor to roof, and from side to side, and from the eastern to the +western extremity. + +Proceeding westward, I saw the compartments allotted to our own country. +The first thing I noticed was a piece of sculpture,--the dying +Indian,--a fine production, though perhaps a trifle overdone. Then came +an American bridge, which painters were still at work upon; and then, +backed by drapery of crimson cloth, that splendid creation of genius, +the Greek Slave, which will immortalize the name of Hiram Powers. I +shall not, I think, be accused of national partiality when I assert +that this statue is, in sculpture, one of the two gems of the +exhibition. Perhaps, if I were not from the United States, I should say +it was "_the gem_." When I come to tell you of the Italian marbles, I +shall refer to that production of art which can alone be thought to +dispute the palm of superiority with it. Every one expresses the highest +admiration at the Slave, and a crowd is constantly around the spot. One +old gentleman, who was in an ecstasy over the sculpture, very sharply +rebuked a person complaining of the paucity of the American productions, +with "Fie, _there_ is one thing America has sent, that all Europe may +admire, and no one in Europe can equal." Turning aside from this +"breathing marble," I examined the American exhibition of products and +manufactures. I confess to you I felt mortified with the comparative +meagreness of our show, because it contrasts poorly with the abundance +exhibited by nations far inferior to us in skill and enterprise. Still, +we have much to show; but the useful prevails over the beautiful. I am +quite sure, too, that there are things here which will compel attention, +and carry away calm, dispassionate approbation from the jurors. The +United States exhibits numerous specimens of tools, cordage, cotton and +woolen fabrics, shawls, colors, prints, daguerreo-types, silver and gold +plate, pianos, musical instruments, harnesses, saddlery, trunks, +bookbinding, paper hangings, buggies, wagons, carriages, carpetings, +bedsteads, boots and shoes, sculls, boats, furs, hair manufactures, +lithographs, perfumery, soaps, surgical instruments, cutlery, dentistry, +locks, India rubber goods, machinery, agricultural implements, stoves, +kitchen ranges, safes, sleighs, maps, globes, philosophical instruments, +grates, furnaces, fire-arms of all descriptions, models of railroads, +locomotives, &c. You may add to these fine specimens of all our produce, +as cotton, sugar, tobacco, hemp, and the mineral ores--iron, lead, zinc, +plumbago, tin, and copper, coals of all kinds, preserved meats, &c., &c. + +I wish, Charley, you could go with me into a door south of the transept, +over which, in oddly-shaped letters, are the words "MEDIÆVAL +COURT." The very name reminds one of Popery, Puseyism, and Pugin. +This mediæval court absolutely dazzles one's eyes with its splendors. +Auriferous draperies line the walls; from the ceiling hang gold and +silver lamps--such lamps as are to be seen in Romish chapels before the +statues of the Virgin; huge candlesticks, in which are placed enormous +candles; Gothic canopies and richly-carved stalls; images of he and she +saints of every degree; crucifixes and crosiers; copes and mitres; +embroideries, of richest character, are all here--things which the +mother of harlots prizes as the chosen instruments by which she +deceives the nations. And truly beautiful are many of these things as +works of art; but it is only as works of art that any Christian can +admire them. As I gazed on the rich tissues and golden insignia, I +mourned for poor corrupt human nature, to which alone such gewgaws could +be acceptable. How would Paul or Peter have stared, had they been +required to don such glittering pontificals as are here to be seen! +While I feel great respect for Pugin's ability as an architect and +designer, I have profound pity for those who are deluded by these +gorgeous symbols of a gloomy, cruel, and heartless creed. + +There is a large golden cage, not altogether unlike a parrot's; and +there is a press, indeed. What calls such attention from the multitude? +I join the gazers, and see what at first appears to be three pieces of +irregularly-shaped glass, white and glittering; one large piece, about +the size of a walnut, and two others a little larger than marbles. What +renders that bit of glass so attractive? Glass! no; it is "a gem of +purest ray serene"--a diamond--the diamond of diamonds--the largest in +the world. In short, it is the Kohinoor; or, as the Orientals poetically +called it, "the mountain of light." Its estimated value is two millions +sterling--enough to buy the Crystal Palace itself, nine times over. The +history of this precious gem is romantically curious. It belonged to +Runjeet Sindjb and is now an English trophy. + +Let us enter that partially-darkened chamber, and stand before a painted +glass window, the production of Bertini, of Milan. I can't describe this +extraordinary production. It is illustrative of Dante, and, for +brilliancy of color and harmony of combination, it is not surpassed by +the much-vaunted specimens of past ages. + +"From the sublime to the ridiculous," said Burke, "there is but a step;" +and at not much greater distance from this Dantean window is a German +toy stand. It is amusing to observe a big, "Tenbroek" sort of son of +Allemagne, arranging tiny children's toys. The contrast between the +German giant and the petty fabrics he is setting off to the best +advantage, provokes a smile. + +Let us join the throng rushing into the suite of rooms furnished by the +upholsterers of Vienna. These rooms are indeed magnificent, and must +afford a high treat to the lovers of wood carving. There is a bookcase, +which is almost a miracle of art; the flowers seem to wave, and the +leaves to tremble, so nearly do they approach the perfection of nature. +Then there is, it is said by judges, the most superb bed in the world; +it is literally covered with carvings of the most costly and delicate +description. Since the time of the famous Grinling Gibbons, the English +carver, nothing has been seen like it. These Austrian rooms are among +the great guns of the show, and will repay repeated visits. + +Here stands the glorious Amazon of Kiss, of Berlin. This group, of +colossal proportions, represents a female on horseback, in the act of +launching a javelin at a tiger which has sprung on the fore quarter of +her affrighted steed. This is a wonderful work of art, and places its +author in the first rank of sculptors. Nothing can surpass the lifelike +character of the Amazon's horse and the ferocious beast. As a tribute to +the genius of Kiss, a grand banquet is to be given to him by the +sculptors and artists of England. Well does he deserve such an honor. + +Close by the Amazon is a colossal lion in bronze. This is the softest +piece of casting I ever saw; the catlike motion of the paw is perfectly +lifelike. I turn back again to that Amazon. I could gaze on the agony of +that horse for hours, and think I should continue to discover new +beauties. + +The Crusader, a colossal equestrian statue of Godfrey of Bouillon, is +also very imposing. The entire floor is covered in the centre of the +avenue, from east to west, with beautiful statues, models, &c. + +We ascended to one of the galleries for the purpose of taking a bird's +eye view of the gay, busy scene; and a most splendid scene was thrown +open to our gaze. Far as the eye could reach, the building was alive +with gayly-dressed people, who, amidst statues, and trophies, and trees, +and fountains, wandered as in the groves of some enchanted land. As I +strolled onwards, I came to where a tiny fountain sent up its silvery +jet of _eau de Cologne_, and an assistant of Jean Marie Farina, from a +little golden spoon, poured on my handkerchief, unasked, the odoriferous +essence. Then we lingered to witness two of the noblest cakes, the sight +of which ever gladdened the heart of a bride. Gunter, the great pastry +cook, was the architect of the one which was a triumph of taste. The +other was adorned with Cupid and Psyche-like emblems. Then came wax +flowers, beaded artfully with glass, so as to appear spangled with +dewdrops. Then we inspected Cashmere shawls, on which I saw many a lady +cast looks, of admiration, and, I almost fancied, of covetousness. + +Down again, and we are beneath the transept. Beautiful, head, far higher +than the tops of the huge elm-trees, is a crystal arch which spans this +intersecting space. Around are marble statues, which gleam lustrously +amid the foliage of tropical plants, which, shielded from the chilling +air without, seem to be quite at home here. And in the midst up rises +Osler's crystal fountain--a splendid affair, twenty-seven feet in +height, and consisting of four tons of cut glass. So exquisitely is it +arranged that no metal, either of joint or pipe, can be seen. It is "one +entire and perfect chrysolite." From its lofty summit issues forth a +dome of water, which separates, and falls in prismatic showers into a +spacious basin beneath. There are three other fountains, but this is the +monarch of all. On either side of this beautiful production of a +Birmingham manufacturer are two equestrian statues of the queen and +Prince Albert, about which I cannot speak in admiration. Groups of +figures line the sides of the transept, and there is a Puck which I +would like all friends to look at. O, he is alive with fun, and there +marble speaks and laughs. + +We have been greatly delighted with the English room of sculpture. There +is a fine portrait statue of Flaxman, from the chisel of Franks; a very +clever statue of John Wesley; but if I were to chronicle all the +sculptures here, I may as well write a catalogue at once. But before I +quit the subject of marble, let me just allude to the Italian gallery. +There the specimens are indeed exquisite, and remind us that the genius +of art yet loves to linger in the "land of the cypress and myrtle"--in +that beautiful country + + "Where the poet's eye and painter's hand + Are most divine." + +Among the gems of marble is one which I told, you was the only possible +rival of Powers's Greek Slave. This lovely production is "the Veiled +Vesta." It represents a young and exquisitely-formed girl, kneeling and +offering her oblation of the sacred fire. Her face is veiled; but every +feature is distinctly visible, as it were, through the folds which cover +her face. So wonderfully is the veil-like appearance produced, that +myself and others were almost inclined to believe that some trick of art +had been practised, and a film of gauze actually hung over the features. +It was not so, however; the hard marble, finely managed, alone caused +the deception. Raffael Monti, of Milan, is the illustrious artist of +"the Veiled Vesta." + +One of the most interesting machines in the whole exhibition is the +envelope machine of Messrs. De la Rue & Co., of London. In its +operations it more resembles the efforts of human intellect than any +thing I have seen before in machinery. It occupies but a small space, +and is worked by a little boy. In a second, and as if by magic, a blank +piece of paper is folded, gummed, and stamped, and, in fact, converted +into a perfect envelope. As soon as finished, a pair of steel fingers +picks it up, lays it aside, and pushes it out of the way in the most +orderly manner possible. These envelopes, so made, are given to all who +choose to accept them. Opposite to this machine is the stand of +Gillott, of steel pen celebrity. Here are pens of all sizes, and of +various materials. One monster pen might fit a Brobdignagian fist, for +it is two feet long, and has a nib one quarter of an inch broad; and +there are others so small that no one but a Liliputian lady could use +them. Between these extremes are others of various dimensions, arranged +in a very tasteful manner. Something must be got out of this branch of +business, for it is only a month or two since Mr. Gillott purchased an +estate for ninety thousand pounds sterling. Here, too, is a novelty--the +model of St. Stephen's Church, Bolton, Lancashire. The model and the +church itself are both composed of terra cotta. This material was also +employed in the construction of the principal fittings, such as the +screen, pews, organ gallery, pulpit, &c. This is a new adaptation of +terra cotta. The spire severely tests its capabilities, as it is of open +Gothic, or tracery work. + +A large model of Liverpool is beautifully constructed to scale, and must +be the result of immense labor. It is twenty-five feet long, and +exhibits at a glance a bird's eye view of the town, the docks, the River +Mersey, and the adjacent places. Hundreds of miniature vessels, amongst +them the Great Britain, crowd the docks; fleets of merchantmen are seen +on the Mersey, sailing to and from the port; and in the busy streets, +so minutely delineated that any particular house may be distinguished, +numerous vehicles are seen, and hundreds, too, of pygmy men and women +are observed walking in the public ways. In short; it is Liverpool in a +glass case, and no mean exhibition in itself. + +The Thames Plate Glass Company exhibit the largest plate of glass in the +world; its dimensions are eighteen feet eight inches by ten feet. There +is not a blemish on its brilliant surface, and it is as "true" as +possible. It is placed in such a position that it reflects the whole +length of the main avenue of the Crystal Palace, and the effect produced +is superb. A Catholic bookseller from Belgium makes quite a display of +his editions of devotional works for every country under heaven; and +there, too, are the effigies of Cardinal Boromeo, Thomas à Becket, and +the late Archbishop of Paris, all arrayed in full pontificals. Their +crosiers are very richly jewelled. If the apostles of Christ could +revisit the earth, they would never fancy that these were their +successors in the work and patience of the gospel. + +Few things have impressed me more than the exquisite carvings and +elaborate work of the cabinet ware; and I must, Charley, try to describe +one piece of furniture which excites universal praise. It is a cabinet +made by John Stevens, of Taunton. It was prepared at great cost, and is +the gem of the carved work in the exhibition. The wood of which it was +composed was a walnut-tree, which, not long ago, flourished near +Taunton. In order that you may not suppose, I praise every thing too +highly, and without sufficient ground for admiration, I shall give you a +particular description of this incomparable piece of furniture. It +represents, in four beautifully carved male figures, executed after the +style of Gibbons, the periods of Youth, Manhood, Maturity, and Old Age, +whilst other four (female) figures, beautifully brought up in good +relief, are representative of the Passions. Here there was an +opportunity for displaying some fine needlework; and Miss Kingsbury, a +lady of the town, who has received from the hand of royalty a reward for +her talents, has turned the opportunity to good account, and produced +some appropriate work, displaying a skill truly astonishing. This is not +the least attractive portion of the cabinet, and, as we shall again, +have to advert to it in its order, we leave it for the present. The +carved figure of the Youth represents him at twenty years of age. The +countenance is finely wrought, and marks the innocency and candor of the +young heart; the open brow, the love-lighted eye, all exemplifying +characteristics of that period of life, untrammelled with care or +anxious thought. In his hair, well brought out from the solid wood, is +intertwined the violet, the primrose, and the cow-slip, emblematical of +the season--being the spring time of life. In the right hand of the +figure is attached a portion of a festoon of carved flowers, which +connects it with the other four figures. The left hand is extended, +pointing to Manhood. This figure denotes the period when forty summers +have ripened the man, and brought the noblest work of God to that stage +of his more powerful intellect, his keener judgment, stronger frame, and +more lasting energy. These characteristics are most admirably depicted. +In his locks are carved the rose, the lily, the pink, and the carnation, +the strawberry and the gooseberry--emblematical of the summer time of +life. In the right hand the figure receives the festoon of flowers from +Youth, and in the left it supports the frame of the cabinet. The festoon +is carried on to Maturity, which represents the time when sixty years +bring him to the period of decline. Its right hand assists, with the +left of that of Manhood, in supporting the cabinet. Encircling his brow +are corn ears and wine cups, together with barley, wheat, grapes, and +hops, the whole of which are most elaborately and finely chiselled. The +hand of Maturity points downward to Old Age. The furrowed brow, the +sunken cheek, the dim and glassy eye observable in this figure, conveys +the mournful intelligence that the sand of life is fast approaching its +last little grain. The bent form and the thoughtful brow tell that +Time, the consumer of all things, has also ravaged a once erect and +powerful frame. The contemplation of this figure, beautifully executed +as it is, intuitively inculcates a serious consideration of the value +and blessings of a temperate; and well-spent life; it induces a +thoughtful reflection that a life of goodness alone insures an end of +peace. The holly, the mistletoe, the ivy, the acorn shell, the leafless +branch, and the fruitless vine encircle the brow-fit emblems of the +period which marks an exchange of time for eternity. All the figures are +rendered complete by a carved lion's foot, at the bottom of each, and +above the feet is a connecting frame, to make that portion of the stand +perfect. Between the figures of Spring and Summer are carved flowers and +fruit in great profusion, emblematical of the seasons, and forming a +fine piece of work; it represents the all-important fact that time +flies, by an hourglass borne on the wings of a splendidly-carved eagle, +and suspending from the bird's beak are the letters, curiously wrought, +forming TEMPUS FUGIT. This rests on a globe, representative of +the earth, which is half sunk in a shell of water, overflowing the wheel +of time, and shedding on fruit and flowers its refreshing dew. The space +between the figures of Autumn and Winter is filled with carvings of the +chrysanthemum, holly, ivy, and autumn fruit, intertwined with +consummate skill and taste. The garland, or festoon, which is carried +through, and sustained, as before stated, by each of the four figures, +is composed of every flower indigenous to this part of the land, and +introduced emblematically to the time in which they severally bloom. + +Above the figures, and resting on their heads, is a stand or frame to +receive the top part, containing the drawers, doors, &c., and is +constructed in a peculiar manner on the bevel, that the eye may easily +rest on some beautiful lines from Thomson's Seasons. Over the head of +Youth, in this frame, is a basket of strawberries, cherries, +raspberries, and early fruit, surrounded with leaf work, enclosing a +panel of needlework, covered with bent plate glass, and the motto,-- + + "------ Chief, lovely Spring, + In these and thy soft scenes the smiling God is seen." + +Then follows the carved figure representing Summer. Over the head of it +is a basket, containing currants, strawberries, gooseberries, apples, +pears, peaches, and other fruits, enriched with leaf work, the lily and +the rose completing the centre. Between the Summer and Autumn baskets +and a panel are the following mottoes, each season having one:-- + + "Child of the sun! refulgent Summer comes, + In pride of youth; + While Autumn, nodding o'or the yellow plain, + Comes jovial on." + +Then follows the Autumn basket, containing grapes, pears, filberts, &c., +surrounded with leaf work. The panel of needlework next appears for +Winter, with these lines:-- + + "See! Winter comes to rule the varied year, + Sullen and sad;" + +and over the head of the Winter figure is placed a basket of walnuts, +medlars, &c. Here is the frame of the cabinet, which contains about +eighty drawers in fine walnut wood, enriched with fuschia drops in +silver, and coral beads for drop handles; the wood work is relieved with +silvered plate glass; also small doors with plate glass for needlework, +in wild flowers. This completes the interior of the frame. + +The exterior represents three carved doors, in fine relief: over Spring +and Summer is the convolvulus, entwined round the frame; then follows +the centre door, in fine relief--the grape vine, full of fruit, being +very prominent. The door over Autumn and Winter is enriched with +carvings of barley and hop vine. Between each of these doors are +pilasters, forming four female figures, holding in their hands the +emblems of the seasons, and a newly-invented glass dome head, in an +elegant form, for the protection of knitted flowers in Berlin wool. The +wood work is tastefully arranged, springing from each group of flowers +over the heads of the female figures, with mouldings to receive the +bent plate glass, and is enriched with fine carvings of fruit and +flowers. At the extreme top of this glass dome stands a beautiful figure +of Peace, with extended wings, bending over the globe, holding in one +hand the olive branch, and with the other pointing to the Deity. + +Having thus given a description of the carvings of this splendid +cabinet, let me turn your attention to the enrichments in needlework, +worked on black velvet, from nature, by Miss Kingsbury. The mottoes in +frame for the different seasons are worked in floss silk of various +colors; the inside doors--five in number--with wild flowers; and in +front are rich specimens of raised embroidery, extending to the inside, +and protected with plate glass. Miss Kingsbury is a young lady of +Taunton, who has made this kind of work her peculiar forte. + +Above the doors, also, are knitted flowers in Berlin wools, which fill +the dome head, and are protected with bent plate glass. Almost every +flower, as they bloom, are to be distinguished in these rich bouquets, +with which the honeysuckle and passion flower are beautifully entwined. + +Now, what think you of such a cabinet as this? Well, Charley, there are +scores and scores of objects as much deserving a full description as +this. + +The department of machinery and steam power is entirely beyond my +ability to speak of in proper terms. I have little mechanical genius, +and I never am more out of my element than When surrounded by fly +wheels, cylinders, and walking beams. + +If our friend Ike had been here, lie would have been perfectly at home; +and his pleasure and profit in this department would have surpassed any +I could experience. I have only glanced at a few of the wonderful things +in this wonderful place, and yet I have far exceeded the bounds of an +ordinary letter. + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 17. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +One evening this week we spent very pleasantly at the Royal Polytechnic +Institution for the advancement of the arts and sciences in connection +with agriculture and manufactures. There is a large theatre, where all +sorts of lectures are delivered, at various hours, upon philosophical +and other subjects. Lecturers occupy the theatre in succession, and take +up about half an hour. These are generally men of respectable abilities. +The building is full of curiosities. We saw the model of the human ear, +about one hundred and forty times larger than the natural organ. We saw +a diving bell in the great hall, which is frequently put into action, +and visitors are allowed to descend. That evening several made the +experiment. The interior of the bell is lighted by thick plate glass. A +very large number of models are to be seen, and there is much to +interest the spectator. We heard a fine lecture respecting the +experiment of Foucault, by which the diurnal rotation of the earth is +said to be rendered visible to the eye. Foucault is a young Parisian, +who, whilst engaged in some investigations with a pendulum in his +mother's cellar, made this discovery, as he claims it to be. We saw the +experiment repeated here on the same scale as it has recently been shown +at the Pantheon at Paris. A brass sphere, weighing about five pounds, +was suspended from the lofty ceiling by a piece of music wire, and made +to vibrate in one plane over a table graduated into degrees. After a few +vibrations, the direction of the pendulum appeared to be changed, as +though the table had moved round on its owns axis. + +We passed an hour at the Egyptian Hall to see the opening of the +American Panorama of the Overland Route to California. It bids fair to +make a hit in London. Last Sunday, "great exhibition" sermons were +abundant in London. Exeter Hal, the largest place in London, holding +about five thousand persons, is to be used for three months for the +performance of divine service, to accommodate the strangers who crowd +the city. We all went, Sunday evening, and heard the Rev. Thomas Binney, +who has quite a reputation. The hall was as full as it could be, but we +did not think the discourse as good as it might be. It was rather +declamatory. + +You no doubt remember how much our curiosity was excited by hearing that +Mr. Wyld was about to place a model of the globe, of gigantic +dimensions, in the great exhibition. Well, he was unable to obtain the +space required, and so he has erected a spacious building in Leicester +Square. This building is circular, with projecting entrances at the four +cardinal points of the compass. From the centre rises a graceful dome. +Here is placed the model of the earth, fifty-six feet in diameter. The +scale is about ten miles to an inch. The arrangement before used in the +construction of globes is reversed in this case, and the continents, +islands, and seas are seen on the _inner_ surface. This seems like +turning the world, not upside down, but inside out. The mountains and +land are elevated to a scale. The spectators travel round the globe on +winding staircases, at the distance of a few feet from the surface. I +went the other morning to the model, but was far less interested than I +expected. The rest of the party were not present, and are willing to +take my report. I heard that Mr. Wyld has spent twelve thousand pounds +upon his undertaking. + +We selected a fine afternoon to visit the Zoölogical Gardens in the +Regent's Park, and, of course, had a treat. I did not think much of the +gardens as far as the horticulture was concerned; but the collection of +animals was far beyond any thing I had before witnessed. There are more +than sixteen hundred specimens. The animals are finely housed, and their +habits consulted in the arrangements of their homes. We had the pleasure +to see the young elephant, only six months old, which had just been +received. It was about the size of a donkey. A hippopotamus had recently +been added to the collection, and we were sadly vexed not to see it. It +was shut up at six o'clock, just as we reached its house. George had his +luck, and obtained a glimpse of the retiring quadruped. We have been +greatly amused with the sight of hundreds of boys about town, dressed in +blue gowns, or long coats with belts, short knee breeches, yellow +stockings, and shoes with tackles, but wear no caps or hats. In all +weathers they are bareheaded. I find that they are the boys belonging to +Christ's Hospital, a school founded by Edward VI., in 1553, and +generally known in London as the Blue Coat School. The scholars +generally range from one thousand to twelve hundred. The education, is +said to be of the best character, and many of the boys belong to +families of high respectability, and it is quite a matter of desire to +obtain scholarship here. They look very funny in their old-fashioned +rig. Each boy wears bands like a clergyman. The school is in Newgate +Street, and is a fine modern edifice in the Tudor style. The front is +flanked by towers, and has eight noble windows, which are separated by +buttresses. Over one of the galleries of the hall is a fine picture, by +Holbein, of Edward VI. granting the charter to the Hospital, as it was +then called. Some of the best scholars of England were educated here; +and we remembered particularly Coleridge and our special favorite, +Charles Lamb. + +To-morrow we are to have a treat of the highest kind. We are to spend +the day at Windsor. I feel pretty well acquainted with its history and +associations, but I shall spend the evening with George in brushing up +my information. There is nothing more unpleasant than to find yourself +in the presence of things and places of which you painfully feel an +entire ignorance. If ever we meet again, how much we shall have to chat +over on our favorite topics! + +Yours always, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 18. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +It was a fine, clear morning when we started for Windsor by railroad, a +distance of twenty-one miles. The country is fine; but our thoughts were +on the castle. At Slough we took an omnibus, and rode into the town. It +is a pretty, quiet place, of about ten thousand inhabitants. There are +some six or seven streets, and they present but few attractions. The +castle is every thing. You know this has been the favorite residence of +most of the English monarchs, and the scene of many a tournament in the +days of chivalry. The castle was the work of William the Conqueror. John +lived at Windsor while Magna Charta was extorted from him by his barons +at Runnymede. Henry III. did a great deal to the castle, but Edward III. +invested it with its great glory. This was his native place. The +architect he employed was the famous William of Wykeham, Bishop of +Winchester, a man of great genius. He built the noble round tower. This +was in 1315. Wykeham built him a palace worthy of the hero and his noble +son, the Black Prince. Edward IV. built St. George's Chapel, and Henry +VII. and Henry VIII. both made important additions to the fortress. +Young Edward VI. resided here, and did not like its retirement and +gloom. Elizabeth made the terrace and other improvements. When Charles +II. was restored, he brought a foreign taste to the improvement of the +castle, and a great deal of elegancy was attempted, but which poorly +harmonized with the Gothic, baronial style of Wykeham's works. + +George IV. was a man of exquisite taste, and he employed Sir Jeffry +Wyatville to carry out the plans of Edward III. and his architect. This +was in 1824, and his immense labors have been successful. These +improvements cost two million pounds sterling. I ought to say that +Windsor Castle was the favorite home of George III., who died here. This +palace stands on a lofty chalk hill, and commands the valley of the +Thames. Around it is the finest, terrace in the world, the descent from +which is faced with a rampart of freestone extending about seventeen +hundred feet. The whole building occupies about twelve acres. + +I shall not describe all the towers, for there are some dozen or +fifteen. The round tower of Edward III. is the chief one. Here he +revived the round table of King Arthur, and established the Order of the +Garter. From the battlements of this strong fortress you gaze upon no +less than twelve counties. Prince Albert is constable of this tower. +This was the old prison, or donjon of the castle. Here James I. of +Scotland was a prisoner, and here he wrote his sweet verses and +celebrated Nature's beauties and the praises of his lady-love, Jane +Beaufort. Here, too, Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey, long suffered, and +sung the sweetest lays. We had a ticket to see the state apartments. +Suffice it to say that we went through the Queen's Audience Chamber, the +Vandyke Room, the Queen's State Drawing Boom or Zuccharelle Room, the +State Ante-Room, the Grand Staircase and Vestibule, the Waterloo +Chamber, the Grand Ball Room, St. George's Hall, the Guard Chamber, the +Queen's Presence Chamber. All these are very, very beautiful. I was +delighted with the Vandyke Room. Here are twenty-two undoubted +productions of this greatest of portrait painters. Charles I. and +Henrietta were favorite subjects with the artist. Here are several of +them and their children, and they are to be found elsewhere. The +equestrian portrait of Charles I. is a truly grand picture. You know the +beautiful old copy, of a cabinet size, which we have in the study at +home: it will please me more than ever, since I know how faithful it is. +That queen of Charles's who made him so much trouble with her Popery and +temper was a wonderfully beautiful woman. I should not soon be weary +looking at her portrait. She was daughter of Henry IV. of France. Her +fortune was hard, to lose a father by an assassin, and a husband by the +executioner. The Gobelin tapestry, illustrating the life of Esther, in +the Audience Room, is very rich. In the State Ante-Room are the most +wonderful carvings of fowl, fish, fruit, and flowers, by Grinling +Gibbons. They are thought to be unsurpassed in this department of art. +On the Great Staircase is a noble colossal marble statue, of that +excellent sovereign, but bad man, George IV. It is by Chantrey. The +Waterloo Chamber is adorned with thirty-eight portraits of men connected +with Waterloo, and twenty-nine of them are by Sir Thomas Lawrence. St. +George's Hall is two hundred feet long, thirty-four wide, thirty-two +high, and contains some fine portraits of sovereigns by Vandyke, Lely, +Kneller, Gainsborough, and Lawrence. On twenty-four shields are the arms +of each sovereign of the Order of the Garter, from Edward III. to +William IV. The Guard Chamber is a noble room, eighty feet in length. +Immediately on entering, we were struck with the colossal bust of Nelson +by Chantrey, A piece of the mast of the Victory, shot through by a +cannon ball, forms its fitting pedestal. Here, too, we saw the busts of +the great Duke of Marlborough by Rysbach, and the Duke of Wellington by +Chantrey, and their two banners, by the annual presentation of which to +the reigning sovereign, on the anniversaries of Blenheim and Waterloo, +they hold the estates of Blenheim and Strathfieldsaye. There are figures +in armor representing the Duke of Brunswick, 1530; Lord Howard, 1588; +Earl of Essex, 1596; Charles I., when Prince of Wales, 1620; and Prince +Rupert, 1635. These suits of armor are the genuine ones which were worn +by these characters in their lifetime. One thing greatly delighted +me--it was the gorgeous shield, executed by Benvenuto Cellini, and +presented by Francis I. to Henry VIII. at the Field of the Cloth of +Gold. The workmanship is entirely beyond anything I had imagined +possible for delicacy of finish. I hardly wonder that kings used to +quarrel for the residence of this artist. + +I know, Charley, you are impatient to hear about St. George's Chapel, of +which you have so often expressed your admiration, when we have looked +at the beautiful engravings of its interior, at home. It is very fine, +and should be seen to be comprehended. It is of what is called the +perpendicular Gothic style. The interior is divided by a screen and +organ gallery, into the body of the church, and the choir. These have +side aisles, and in these are five separate little chapels. Two of these +make up the place of transepts, and the other three, and the chapter +house, form abutments at each angle of the chapel. Now, I think, you +can't fail to get an idea of the building. + +The choir is filled with the stalls and banners of the knights of the +garter. Each knight has his banner, helmet, crest, and sword. + +The great pointed window was _designed_ by our countryman, Benjamin +West. The altar-piece was painted by West. Here is the tomb of Edward +IV., 1483. He lies under a slab of black marble. In 1789, some workmen +discovered his lead coffin, and it was opened, and the skeleton was in +good preservation, and measured seven feet in length. Horace Walpole +obtained a lock of his hair at this time. Here are the graves of Henry +VI., and of Henry VIII. and his queen, Jane Seymour. Also of Charles I. + +Lord Byron says of Henry VIII.'s tomb, + + "Famed for contemptuous breach of sacred ties, + By headless Charles, see heartless Henry lies" + +On the 1st of April, 1813, the coffin of Charles I. was found in Henry +VIII.'s tomb; and I think you will be pleased with an account of what, +transpired. I shall, therefore, copy a paper which is authentic: + +"On completing the mausoleum which his present majesty has built in the +Tomb House, as it is called, it was necessary to form a passage to it +from under the choir of St George's Chapel. In constructing this +passage, an aperture was made accidentally, in one of the walls of the +vault of King Henry VIII., through which the workmen were enabled to +see, not only the two coffins which were supposed to contain the bodies +of King Henry VIII. and Queen Jane Seymour, but a third also, covered +with a black velvet pall, which, from Mr. Herbert's narrative, might +fairly be presumed to hold the remains of King Charles I. + +"On representing the circumstance to the Prince Regent, his Royal +Highness perceived at once that a doubtful point in history might be +cleared up by opening this vault; and, accordingly, his Royal Highness +ordered an examination to be made on the first convenient opportunity. +This was done on the 1st of April last, 1813,--the day after the funeral +of the Duchess of Brunswick,--in the presence of his Royal Highness +himself; who guarantied, thereby, the most respectful care and attention +to the remains of the dead during the inquiry. His Royal Highness was +accompanied by his Royal Highness the Duke of Cumberland, Count Munster, +the Dean of Windsor, Benjamin Charles Stevenson, Esq., and Sir Henry +Halford. + +"The vault is covered by an arch half a breadth in thickness; is seven +feet two inches in width, nine feet six inches in length, and four feet +ten inches in height, and _is situated in the centre of the choir, +opposite the eleventh knight's stall, on the sovereign's side_. + +"On removing the pall, a plain leaden coffin, with no appearance of +ever having been enclosed in wood, and bearing an inscription, 'King +Charles, 1648,' in large, legible characters, on a scroll of lead +encircling it, immediately presented itself to the view. A square +opening was then made in the upper part of the lid, of such dimensions +as to admit a clear insight into its contents. These were an internal +wooden coffin, very much decayed, and the body carefully wrapped up in +cerecloth, into the folds of which a quantity of unctuous or greasy +matter, mixed with resin, as it seemed, had been melted, so as to +exclude, as effectually as possible, the external air. The coffin was +completely full, and, from-the tenacity of the cerecloth, great +difficulty was experienced in detaching it successfully from the parts +which it developed. Wherever the unctuous matter had insinuated itself, +the separation of the cerecloth was easy; and when it came off, a +correct impression of the features to which it had been applied was +observed in the unctuous substance. At length the whole face was +disengaged from its covering. The complexion of the skin of it was dark +and discolored. The forehead and temples had lost little or nothing of +their muscular substance. The cartilage of the nose was gone, but the +left eye, in the first moment of exposure, was open and full, though it +vanished almost immediately; and the pointed beard, so characteristic of +the reign of King Charles, was perfect The shape of the face was a long +oval. Many of the teeth remained, and the left ear, in consequence of +the interposition of some unctuous matter between it and the cerecloth, +was found entire. It was difficult at this moment to withhold a +declaration, that, notwithstanding its disfigurement, the countenance +did bear a strong resemblance to the coins, the busts, and especially to +the picture of King Charles I. by Vandyke, by which it had been made +familiar to us. It is true that the minds of the spectators of this +interesting sight were well prepared to receive this impression; but it +is also certain that such a facility of belief had been occasioned by +the simplicity and truth of Mr. Herbert's narrative, every part of which +had been confirmed by the investigation, so far as it had advanced; and +it will not be denied that the shape of the face, the forehead, an eye, +and the beard, are the most important features by which resemblance is +determined. When the head had been entirely disengaged from the +attachments which confined it; it was found to be loose, and without any +difficulty was taken up and held to view. It was quite _wet_, and gave a +greenish-red tinge to paper and linen which touched it. The back part of +the scalp was entirely perfect, and had a remarkably fresh +appearance--the pores of the skin being more distinct, as they usually +are when soaked in moisture, and the tendons and ligaments of the neck +were of considerable substance and firmness. The hair was thick at the +back part of the head, and, in appearance, nearly black. A portion of +it, which has since been cleaned and dried, is of a beautiful dark-brown +color. That of the beard was of a redder brown. On the back part of the +head it was about an inch in length, and had probably been cut so short +for the convenience of the executioner, or, perhaps, in order to furnish +memorials of the unhappy king. On holding up the head to examine the +place of separation from the body, the muscles of the neck had evidently +retracted themselves considerably, and the fourth cervical vertebra was +found to be cut through its substance transversely, leaving the surfaces +of the divided portions perfectly smooth and even; an appearance which +could only have been produced by a heavy blow, inflicted with a very +sharp instrument, and which furnished the last proof wanting to identify +Charles I. After this examination, which served every purpose in view, +and without examining the body below the neck; it was immediately +restored to its situation, the coffin was soldered up again, and the +vault closed." + +This state of things precisely tallied with the account which Herbert, +the faithful servant of Charles, had given as to the place of his +sepulture. + +In this chapel, too, is the cenotaph of the late Princess Charlotte, +who was wife to Leopold, now King of Belgium. I do not much admire it. + +The exquisite beauty of the windows, and the gorgeous splendor of the +roof, will always make this place live in my memory. The terraces are +very beautiful walks; and from Queen Elizabeth's terrace you have a +noble view of Eton College. Of course, we were pleased to see "the +distant spires and antique towers" which are so celebrated in the lines +of Gray. The college looms up finely, and greatly adds to the prospect. +Eton was founded in 1440, by Henry VI. The number of scholars is about +eight hundred and fifty. This college has produced some of the greatest +men in England, and the young nobility are generally educated here. The +college has two quadrangles, and the chapel is a fine Gothic building. +All this region is beautified by the Thames winding through the valley. +Here is the gem of villages, Datchett, where Sir Henry Wotton and Izaak +Walton used to enjoy the rod and line. No one who has any taste can come +to Windsor and not think of the immortal bard who has made so much +capital out of this place. At all events, we wanted to see Herne's Oak. + +We took a carriage and passed the day in riding through the great park, +and took our way through the well-known avenue, called the Long Walk. +This is three miles in length, and has a double row of magnificent +elms. It is directly in front of the south side of the castle, and +terminates in a colossal equestrian statue of George III., standing on +an immense pedestal of blocks of granite. Nothing can exceed in beauty +the beeches of this park, which contains three thousand acres. Immense +herds of deer are seen under the trees. Nowhere have I seen such fine +old trees. Here is a beech-tree thirty-six feet round, seven feet from +the ground! One oak of similar size is called William the Conqueror's +Oak. We went to Virginia Water, the largest sheet of water--that is, +artificial--in Great Britain. We saw the little cottage where George IV. +passed so much of his time. It is a pretty place, but it only shows that +the mind is more likely to be pleased with the simple than the grand. + +The gardener at the cottage--which I think is called Cumberland +Lodge--showed us through the conservatory. We did not much admire the +Fishing Temple, or the floating miniature navy. The scenery is charming, +and worthy of Poussin. The walk by the water, to the tavern, cannot be +surpassed. On our return we passed Frogmore, the residence of the +Duchess of Kent; it seems a pretty, unpretending place. + +Nothing would repay the tourist better than to pass three or four days, +in this vicinity. Village after village, and villa after villa, claims +the admiration of the traveller; and perhaps England has no more +beautiful rural scenery than may here be found. We had seven or eight +hours of perfect delight upon our ride; and when we reached the White +Hart, at Windsor, we were well prepared for doing justice to an +excellent dinner. Our pleasure at Windsor was much increased by the +company of a gentleman of high literary reputation, and who is +distinguished as the author of several successful works. + +Affectionately yours, + +WELD + + + + +Letter 19. + + +LONDON + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We are just returned from a most pleasant visit to Sir John Soane's +Museum. This gentleman was an architect, and a most determined +antiquary; and when he died he left his wonderful collection to the +nation, having obtained an act of Parliament for preserving it and +endowing its maintenance. We obtained a government order, and went to +the house which was Sir John's private residence, in Lincoln's Inn +Fields. Never did I behold such a sight. The house is spacious, but +every nook and corner--and it is full of unimaginable ones--is filled up +with precious matters. Here are Roman and Grecian relics; fragments of +vases from Herculaneum; and the far-famed Egyptian sarcophagus brought +over by Belzoni. The latter is made of one piece of alabaster, nearly +ten feet long. It is inscribed all over with hieroglyphics, and cost Sir +John a large sum. I shall see nothing in all Europe that will take my +fancy as much as this museum, I am sure. There are twenty-five distinct +apartments; and if you can find a square foot in the house not occupied, +you would do more than I was able to. The catalogue of this museum I +shall value highly, and that will give you a better idea than I can of +its contents. I had no common pleasure in finding here the original +paintings of the Rake's Progress, by Hogarth, the engravings of which we +have so admired. These pictures were painted in 1734, and were bought by +Sir J. Soane, in 1802, for five hundred and seventy guineas. And here, +too, are Hogarth's great paintings of the Election--a series of four +pictures. These unrivalled works of comic art were bought of Garrick's +widow by Soane, in 1823, for sixteen hundred and fifty guineas! The +collection of paintings is by no means despicable, and we saw a few +pictures not soon to be forgotten. The Views of Venice, by Canaletti, +are very fine; and there are some gems by Reynolds, Danby, Turner, +Hamilton, Lawrence, and Bird. I must tell you how they have economized +room in the apartment devoted to pictures. The ceiling is very richly +adorned with ornaments, forming arched canopies. On the north and west +sides of this room are cabinets, and on the south are _movable planes_, +with space between for pictures. So, in a room of thirteen feet eight +inches by twelve feet four inches, there are as many pictures as could +be placed on the walls of a gallery of the same height, forty-five feet +long and twenty broad. In the crypt is an ancient tomb, and models, in +cork, of tombs, at Capua. + +There are some precious _souvenirs_ of Napoleon to be seen,--as +portraits, miniatures, pistols, &c.,--a fine collection of painted +glass, and a countless lot of antiques, intaglios, autographs, and +watches. If ever you find yourself in London, I charge you, get to this +same place for a long morning. In the afternoon we took steamer and Went +to Greenwich, five miles from town, to see the Hospital for Seamen. +Charles II. built this place for a royal palace,--and a noble one it +is,--but William and Mary gave it up to the use of old and worn-out +seamen; and as England owes every thing to Jack Tar, it seems fit that, +when old and crazy, his last days should be made comfortable. A very +large income arises from the exhibition of the fine picture gallery here +to be seen. Here is quite enough to please any one who is curious, and +to gratify boys amazingly; and this you will credit when I tell you some +things that we saw. The coat and waistcoat worn by Nelson when he was +killed, on the Victory, at Trafalgar; models of celebrated ships; +original painting of Sir Walter Raleigh; Sir Cloudesley Shovel, who was +lost, with all his crew, on the Scilly Islands, in Queen Anne's reign; +Admiral Kempenfeldt, lost in the Royal George, 1782; Lord Nelson; Lord +Collingwood; and almost all the great naval commanders of Great Britain. +Then, too, there are large paintings of the great sea fights. One of +Trafalgar, by Turner, is very fine, and so is a large one of Nelson's +death. + +There is a room besides all I have alluded to, called the Nelson Room, +and which illustrates all his history; and there are, all about the +rooms, some exquisitely fine colossal busts, executed by Flaxman, +Bailey, and Westmacott. The chapel is thought to be one of the most +beautiful in England. The entire of this great national glory is kept in +the cleanest manner; and the only thing to complain of is a want of +politeness in the guides. This is in contrast to other places; for we +have found the guides very kind and civil at all other places. We have +recently visited the Queen's stables, by order from Mr. Lawrence. Every +thing was very clean and spacious. Some of the horses were exceedingly +beautiful. The harness-room made a display. The cream-colored horses +belonging to the state carriage are noble animals. I believe they are +brought from Hanover, or came originally thence. The state carriage is +an immense lumbering affair, made of carvings and gold. It must be of +great weight. The sides are richly painted. It is never used but at the +opening of Parliament and similar occasions. The queen's carriages which +are ordinarily used are numerous and very elegant, but in good taste. +One of our number--you may guess who it was--sadly wanted a hair from +the tail of the queen's favorite riding horse. The riding school is +spacious, but not much better than a private one that we know in New +York. + +We took dinner one day at Soyer's Symposium, at Gore House. Soyer is the +great master of ceremonies in London for all matters of the _cuisine._ +Gore House was once the home of Wilberforce and Lord Rodney, but is +better known as the residence of the late Countess of Blessington. It is +now a hotel. The grounds are extensive, and the trees are some of the +finest around London, and I have never seen a lovelier spot of the same +size. It is alive with blackbirds, thrushes, linnets, and goldfinches. +As you enter, you find a vestibule, which is called the cupola of +Jupiter Tonans. Through this you pass to "the hall of architectural +wonders," then to "the Blessington Temple of the Muses." This apartment +leads to "the Transatlantic Ante-Chamber," which is adorned with all +sorts of American emblems. Then there are, in succession, "the Alcove of +White Roses," "the Birth of Gems," and other rooms of great +gorgeousness. One room is the "Palace of the North," which is apparently +made entirely of ice, and out of the wall of which is issuing a polar +bear. In the pleasure grounds is a "baronial hall," one hundred feet +long, fifty broad, and thirty high; and besides this an enormous tent, +called "the Encampment for all Nations." Here, at a table four hundred +feet long, fifteen hundred persons can be dined at a cheap rate. A +table-cloth for this affair cost Soyer two hundred pounds sterling. We +had a very pleasant dinner with the Rev. Dr. Harris, President of New +College, whose works are so well known in America. The room we occupied +was "the Alcove of White Roses." The Symposium stands near to the +Crystal Palace, and accommodates the strangers admirably. That dinner +was two days ago, however; and I am reminded that another is necessary +today, and must leave off to prepare for it. + +I am yours truly, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 20. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Yesterday we visited the two great ecclesiastical edifices of the +metropolis,--St. Paul's Cathedral and Westminster Abbey,--and I will +endeavor to convey to your mind some idea of the impression which they +left upon my own. These structures are by name familiar to you, and you +have seen engravings of the mighty dome of St. Paul's and the double +towers of the Abbey. I had often gazed on these pictured +representations, but I find that they did not convey to my mind any +adequate notions of the originals. Like the Pyramids, or our own +Niagara, they must be seen to be understood. In so vast a place as +London, it is absolutely necessary for sight-seers to adopt something +like system in their arrangements; so we agreed to devote one day to the +examination of the metropolitan Cathedral Church, and of the ancient +edifice in which the monarchs of England are crowned. We quitted our +hotel at nine o'clock, and, pushing our way through the hurrying crowds +of the Strand, speedily arrived at Temple Bar. We then turned down a +dingy, narrow passage, on our right hand; this led us to the Temple, +which is like a little town of itself, and is almost exclusively +inhabited by lawyers. It was amusing enough to notice the gentlemen in +powdered horse-hair wigs and flowing black robes, like a clergyman's, +who every now and then emerged from some open door, and flitted across +the courts, each having a bundle of papers tied with red tape, or a book +under his arm. Whilst occupied in observing these Templars of modern +times, the tones of an organ fell on my ear, for we were close to the +Temple Church, one of the most beautiful sanctuaries in the world. The +early morning service was not concluded so we entered without ceremony. +Externally, the building has little in the way of architectural +decorations to recommend it. It is low, destitute of tower or steeple, +and surrounded by gloomy-looking lawyers' offices. But no sooner had we +crossed the threshold than a scene of surpassing beauty burst upon us. I +should here tell you that this edifice, which is intended for the +exclusive use of members of the Temple, is very ancient. The church +formerly belonged to the Knights Templars. It was built in 1185, and the +choir was added in 1240. For years and years the building was neglected +by the legal gentlemen; but in 1839 it was proposed to restore the +former glories of the place, and the outlay of seventy thousand pounds +has caused it to stand out in all its pristine beauty. The form of the +church is octagonal. The ceiling, sides, and altar are all decorated in +the mediæval style. The pipes of the organ dazzle you with their purple +and golden splendors. The floor is of encaustic tiles. On the walls are +displayed the names and coats of arms of those members of the Temple who +have been raised to the dignity of judges. On all these objects the +sunshine, streaming through superbly-painted windows, produced quite a +kaleidoscope effect. The _coup d'Å“il_ was almost too dazzling, and +strikingly contrasted in my mind with the primitive simplicity of our +New England churches. In this church I found that some great men had +been buried. The learned Sir John, Selden, the author of "Table Talk;" +Howell, whose old letters we have so much enjoyed together; Gibbon the +historian, and Oliver Goldsmith, lie just outside the church. The +preacher of this church is called the master of the Temple, and the +great Hooker once held this post. Having gratified our curiosity by an +inspection of this gem of church architecture, we quitted the building, +and, after a pleasant stroll through the Temple Gardens,--a sweet spot, +and spoken of by Shakspeare as the place where the distinction of the +Red and White Roses was first seen,--embarked on one of the river +steamboats, which rapidly conveyed us to Blackfriars Bridge. + +The finest view of St. Paul's Cathedral is, unquestionably, from the +Thames. When seen from the streets, only portions of its colossal +magnitude can be observed. On all sides it is hemmed in by houses, +which, pygmies though they be, prevent an uninterrupted view of the +architectural giant. But from the middle of the Thames, the cathedral is +seen in all its glory; towering above the surrounding marts of trade, it +stands out the grand point of attraction. + +[Illustration: St. Paul's Cathedral.] + +Here may be observed, to advantage, the surpassing beauty of the great +dome, which dwarfs the towers and steeples of the surrounding churches +almost into nothingness. The general aspect of the cathedral is said to +resemble St. Peter's, at Rome, but the symmetry of the dome of the +latter is acknowledged to be less beautiful than that of its London +rival. + +We landed at Blackfriars Bridge Stairs; and, after ascending Ludgate +Hill, arrived at the great northern door of the cathedral. In reply to +the rap of our knuckles at the huge portals, it slowly swung back on its +hinges, and a grim, surly-looking face appeared. The figure which +belonged to the face was clad in a rusty and seedy black robe, from +beneath which a hand was thrust forth, and the words, "two-pence each," +sounded harshly on our ears. Two-pence each was accordingly paid, and +then the surly janitor, or verger, as he is called, admitted us within +the building. In a moment afterwards, we were beneath the dome of St. +Paul's. If this part of the edifice has appeared imposing when viewed +from without, how much grander did it seem now that we stood on the +marble pavement below, and gazed upward into the vast concave which the +genius of Sir Christopher Wren had designed. The scene to my mind was +most impressive, and the impressiveness was heightened by a continuous +dull roar, which never ceased for a moment. This ceaseless noise was +produced by the numerous carriages passing and repassing without. The +concavity of the dome, I suppose, condensed the sound into a subdued +thunder, like that which one hears at a short distance from the Falls +of Niagara. Against the huge pillars, and in various niches, were the +statues of eminent men; some of them erected by the nation, as a +commemoration of naval or military services, and others as tributes to +great personal worth, or to public benefactors. Among the statues of the +men of peace, that of Dr. Samuel Johnson, the great lexicographer, +particularly interested me. The celebrated moralist is represented +seated. One hand holds a scroll, the other rests upon a pedestal. The +likeness is said to be well preserved. The sculptor was Bacon. There was +the capacious forehead, the thick bushy eyebrows, the large mouth, the +double chin, the clumsy person, and the thick, ungainly legs, which had +been rendered familiar to me through the portraits which I had seen in +the Johnsonia. As I gazed on that marble tribute to genius and worth, I +could not but remember, Charley, how Johnson had frequently walked the +streets of London all night, because he had not the wherewithal to pay +for a lodging. Near to Johnson's monument was that of Howard the +philanthropist. We noticed a very fine one to Sir Joshua Reynolds; also +statues to Bishop Heber, Abercrombie, Cornwallis, Sir John Moore, Sir +Astley Cooper, Sir Thomas Lawrence, and Benjamin West. + +[Illustration: Dr. Samuel Johnson.] + +But the greatest attraction of St. Paul's is the sarcophagus, in which +repose the remains of England's greatest naval hero, Lord Nelson. +Situated immediately beneath the centre of the great dome is a +diamond-shaped tablet, which marks the spot beneath which rests, after +his career of glory, the hero of the Nile and Trafalgar. His body rests +in a sarcophagus in the vaults below. Exactly beneath the tablet lies +the huge coffin, with the name "NELSON" engraven on its side. +No epitaph, no labored panegyric, no fulsome praise; and Englishmen, I +think, were right in supposing that the simple name of their hero was +enough for fame. This sarcophagus was made by Cardinal Wolsey; and here +Nelson was placed, in a coffin made out of the mainmast of the French +ship, L'Orient. + +The grim verger recommended us to ascend to the dome, and, after paying +fresh fees, we mounted an enormously long and steep-winding staircase, +which led us to the base of the dome. Here was a circular gallery, +surrounded with a railing. Scarcely had we entered this gallery, when +the attendant purposely slammed the entrance door, and immediately a +loud peal, as of thunder, reverberated through the vast building; then +he requested us to listen whilst he whispered against the smooth wall +directly opposite to us. The effect was startling; every word was as +distinct as though the speaker's lips had been close to my ear. This is +known as the Whispering Gallery, and is one of the great lions of the +place. + +We now prepared to ascend still higher, and, after a tedious journey, +arrived at the gilded gallery, which surmounts the dome. From hence we +enjoyed a magnificent view of London, for, fortunately, the atmosphere +was comparatively clear, and the everlasting canopy of smoke which +overhangs London was not so dense as usual. Spread out before us lay the +great wilderness of brick and mortar, through which the shining Thames, +like a huge snake, pursued its sinuous course, spanned at intervals by +bridges, and bearing, on its broad bosom the gathered treasures of many +a far-distant nation. The streets, diminished to mere lanes, looked +alive with Lilliputians; miniature horses and carriages appeared like so +many German automaton toys which had been wound up and set a-going. Far +away to the westward patches of green, studded with trees, denoted the +parks, in one of which glittered the glass roof and sides of the Crystal +Palace; and still more remote were glimpses of the free, fresh, open +country, along which, at intervals, would rush railway trains, bearing +hundreds of passengers to various parts of England. Above my head +glittered, in the brilliant sunshine, the ball and cross which, at a +height of four hundred and four feet, stands proudly over London, and +may be seen from various parts of the metropolis. Another fee secured +our passage to the interior of this globe of gilded copper, and which is +about six feet in diameter, and will hold several persons. To reach it, +I had to ascend a ladder and creep through an aperture at the bottom of +the sphere. This was not worth the labor, but then we could say we had +attained the highest point of the cathedral. I hear that ladies +sometimes venture into the ball; if so, their timidity is insufficient +to baffle their curiosity. This accomplished, we retraced our steps, and +visited the portion of St. Paul's in which divine service is performed. +About a dozen boys, dressed in white surplices, were chanting sweetly; a +dull-looking clergyman read the service indifferently; and a score of +poor people, with one or two well-dressed persons, formed the +congregation. We then departed for Westminster Abbey, which must form +the subject of another letter. + +Yours affectionately, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 21. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +What shall I tell you about Westminster Abbey? I hope I may be able to +say enough to make you long to see it, and determine you to read all you +can about it. By the way, I have satisfied myself that I can learn the +best things about such places by carefully reading good histories and +examining the best engravings. This abbey claims to have been built, in +616, by a Saxon king. It was enlarged by Edgar and Edward the Confessor, +and was rebuilt as it now appears by Henry III. and Edward I. In this +church all the sovereigns of England have been crowned, from Edward the +Confessor down to Victoria; and not a few of them have been buried here. +The architecture, excepting Henry VII.'s Chapel; is of the early +English school. Henry's chapel is of the perpendicular Gothic. The +western towers were built by Sir Christopher Wren. + +We entered at the door leading to the Poet's Corner. We gazed with +interest on the monuments of Chatham, Pitt, Fox, and Canning, Prince +Rupert, Monk, Chaucer, Spenser, Beaumont, Fletcher, Ben Jonson, Cowley, +Dryden, Dr. Watts, Addison, Gay, Sheridan, and Campbell. Here, too, are +tablets to Barrow, South, Garrick, Handel, Clarendon, Bishop Atterbury, +Sir Isaac Newton, and old Parr, who died at the age of one hundred and +fifty-two. + +[Illustration: Poets' Corner, Westminster Abbey.] + +The associations of this building are every thing to the stranger. I +will just give you a list of names of the kings and queens buried +here--Sebert, Edward the Confessor, Henry III., Edward I., Queen +Eleanor, Edward III. and his queen, Philippa, Richard II. and his queen, +Henry V., Henry VII. and his queen, Ann of Cleves, queen of Henry VIII., +Edward VI., Bloody Mary, Mary, Queen of Scots, Queen Elizabeth, James I. +and his queen, Queen of Bohemia, Charles II., William III. and Mary, +Queen Anne, George II. and Queen Caroline. + +We took the circuit of the chapels, beginning with St. Benedict. Here +many eminent churchmen have been interred. The next is St. Edmond's, +which contains twenty monuments; the monument of the Earl of Pembroke, +brother of Henry III.; he died 1298. Here, too, are tombs of children of +Edward II. and Edward III. I noticed a very fine brass monument, which +represents a Duchess of Gloucester in her dress as a nun, dated 1399. +There is, too, the effigy of the Duchess of Suffolk, mother of poor Lady +Jane Grey. The third is St. Nicholas's Chapel, where is seen Lord +Burleigh's monument. The fourth is the Virgin Mary's Chapel, called +Henry VII.'s Chapel, and the ascent to which is by twelve or fourteen +steps. This glorious room consists of a central aisle, with five small +chapels and two side aisles. Here you see the stalls and banners of the +Knights of the Bath, who were formerly installed in this chapel. The +altar tomb of Henry VII. is truly beautiful; Lord Bacon said, "It is one +of the costliest and daintiest tombs in Europe." Here are tombs of his +mother, and the mother of Lord George Darnley, and Mary, Queen of Scots, +and the Duke of Buckingham, Queen Elizabeth, and Queen Mary. Here, too, +is a sarcophagus, which is supposed to contain the remains of Edward V. +and the Duke of York, discovered in the Tower in the seventeenth +century, in a box. Charles II., William and Mary, and Queen Anne are in +a vault on the south aisle. George II. and his queen, Caroline, lie +together, a side being taken out of each coffin. The fifth chapel is St. +Paul's. The most striking object here is a colossal portrait statue of +James Watt, the great steam-engine perfecter, if not inventor. This is +by Chantrey, and cost six thousand pounds, and seems quite out of place. +Archbishop Usher lies in this chapel. The sixth chapel, called Edward +the Confessor's, pleased me greatly. In the centre is the shrine of the +monarch saint; it is rich in mosaic adornments. The altar tomb of Henry +III. is very grand, and there is a noble bronze statue of the king. +Edward I. is here, and in 1774 his body was found almost entire. Edward +III. and Philippa, his queen, have tombs. Here, too, was Henry V., the +hero of Agincourt, Richard II. and queen. We were delighted with the two +coronation chairs; in one is the old stone of Scone, on which the early +Scotch kings used to be crowned. Edward I. carried it off, and it has +ever since figured in English coronations. It is a large piece of red +and gray sandstone, and claims to have been the veritable pillow on +which Jacob slept. The seventh chapel is that of St. Erasmus, and leads +to the eighth, which is John the Baptist's. Here rest the early abbots +of the church. It contains a very fine monument to Lord Hunsdon, +chamberlain to Queen Bess. Just outside, in the aisle, we found the +noble monument to General Wolfe, and the celebrated work of Roubilliac +in memory of Mrs. Nightingale, where death is seen throwing his dart at +the wife, who falls into her husband's arms. + +All over this noble abbey did we wander again and again in repeated +visits, and admire the finest statuary we have ever seen. Roubilliac was +a wonderful genius, and his monument to Sir Peter Warren is exquisite. +The works of Bacon, Flaxman, Nollekins, Chantrey, and Westmacott have +made me in love with statuary; and I long to see the great works which +are to be seen on the continent. + +Many of the tablets and statues are only honorary, as the persons +commemorated were not buried here; as Shakspeare, Southey, Thomson, +Goldsmith, Dr. Watts, &c. I could spend hours looking at Roubilliac's +monument for the Duke of Argyle and his statue for Handel. + +We attended divine service one Sunday afternoon, and heard a very fine +sermon from Lord John Thynne. The abbey was crowded; the music the best +I ever heard in a church; the preacher was quite eloquent; and Dr. C. +observed that it was the most evangelical sermon he had heard in +England. The subject was on justification by faith: + +I may forget many things that I shall see on our travels, but I think +that this abbey will never vanish from my recollection. I shall always +remember the very position of these great works of art and genius; and I +am more than repaid for all the labor of a voyage. + +Yours affectionately, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 22. + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +No one comes to London without being told by every one to go and see the +parks; so we have been to see these fine breathing places. Hyde Park is +about four hundred acres, and has as many as half a dozen great +entrances. Its position is high, and it is the great drive of the people +of fashion. If you want to see London, you must come here on a fine +summer day in June, at about four o'clock, and you will gaze on the +finest and gayest equipages of England. A very pretty piece of water is +in this park, which is called "the Serpentine River." The best skating +of London is to be seen here, we are told, in hard winters. The entrance +from Piccadilly is by a fine threefold arch. Here is the great Achilles +of bronze, in honor of Wellington, made out of the cannon which the duke +captured in Spain. St. James's and the Green Park: this is the oldest in +London, and was made by Henry VIII. A fine arch affords entrance from +Piccadilly, having a bronze colossal equestrian statue of the Duke of +Wellington. You get grand views of the Abbey towers, Buckingham Palace, +the York Column, and other objects of interest. The two parks are about +one hundred and fifty acres. Regent's Park is one of the most +attractive spots in this great city. Here are villas of the finest kind. +Some of the prettiest terraces and rows of houses about London are here +to be seen. This park contains nearly five hundred acres, and, among +other attractions, the Botanical and Zoölogical Gardens, and the +Coliseum. Victoria Park, near Bethnal Green, is a new one, of about +three hundred acres; but we did not visit it. + +Besides these, there are more than thirty squares, some of which are +very beautiful, and are finely planted and adorned. Belgrave Square is +exceedingly rich in its appearance; the houses are built in the +Corinthian order. + +Northumberland House, at Charing Cross, is the city residence of the +Duke of Northumberland. This, externally, has no great beauty, but is +surmounted by the lion of the Percy family. It was built in 1605. This +noble mansion has been politely opened by its proprietor to the visits +of the foreigners who are here at the exhibition. It is a princely +mansion; and, although we had recently been to Windsor, and seen the +royal residence, yet we thought this palace home almost regal in its +splendor. The staircase is splendid, and the apartments are very +magnificent. The hall and drawing-rooms are quite equal, in decorations +and paintings, to the rooms at Windsor. We were much pleased with two +large pictures--a fox and deer hunt, by Snyders; but there were so +many, that it is difficult to single out those we admired. There are +some beautiful paintings of Napoleon, and exquisite carvings in ivory. +In one of the saloons we were all struck with a large Sevres china vase, +presented to the Duke of Northumberland by Charles X., at his +coronation, at which occasion the duke was present as ambassador +extraordinary, and made a most astonishing display of English wealth and +liberality. + +Sion House, near Brentford, is another palace belonging to the duke. +This noble mansion is on the banks of the Thames, and is composed of +freestone. It is very gorgeously furnished, and the hothouses and +conservatories are not much, if any, inferior to Chatsworth. This +mansion has also, been opened to visitors from abroad, and we received +orders from the minister. + +One of the sweetest features about the metropolis, to my taste, is the +vast number of charming villages that surround it. Go where you may, you +fall in with cottages, villas, and mansions, that convey to the mind the +ideas of comfort, elegance, and wealth. + +I find from Weld that he forgot to tell you that we went to St. +Margaret's Church, which stands only a few yards off from Westminster +Abbey. This is a very old building, and said to be of the days of Edward +I. In this very building the celebrated fast-day sermons of the Long +Parliament were preached, and I felt much interest in thinking how often +Cromwell, Pym, Peters, and Harrison had worshipped God in that house. In +this church, too, the Assembly of Divines worshipped, and also the +Scotch commissioners, and took the covenant. This church boasts a +painted window of exquisite beauty, which came as a present, from +Holland, to Henry VII.; and the historical associations of this window +are very curious, and well worth your reading about. The monuments of +this sanctuary are far from being devoid of interest. I may name, among +others, those to Caxton, Sir Walter Raleigh, Sir James Harrington, +author of the great book, "Oceana," the wife of Milton, the mother of +Cromwell, all of whom are here interred. + +While I am speaking of churches, let me tell you that, close by our +hotel, is a very fine one, that pleases me exceedingly. It is called St. +Martin's-in-the-Fields, but is at present quite central as it regards +the metropolis. I think the portico is to my eye equal to any piece of +architecture in London. It was built in 1726. A church stood here for +many centuries; and in 1680, Baxter said that forty thousand people of +the parish could not get into the church; and he adds that they "lived +like Americans, without hearing a sermon for many years." This church +has an exquisite chime of bells, and they very much amused me every +morning. + +Yours affectionately, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 23. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +I have not written you for some time. But today I have seen a number of +things which I am sure you would be pleased with, and so I will tell you +about them. Early in the morning we went to see the Mansion House. This +is the dwelling-house of the lord mayor of London. It is a fine-looking +building, but has a queer upper story, with small windows, which look +badly, over the noble pillars and portico. The great room used for +public occasions is the Egyptian Hall, for what reason does not appear +from any thing about it. Here the lord mayor has his great feasts. I +should like to be in London on the 9th of November, which is his day of +inauguration; and this is the great day for Londoners. He rides in a +large carved gilt carriage. I believe he goes to Westminster by water, +in a splendid barge, and comes back in his coach. The salary is eight +thousand pounds; but the expenses are beyond this amount, and some +persons refuse to serve, and pay a fine of five hundred pounds; but +this is a rare case, and enough are ready to pay for the honor. In the +city the mayor ranks before the royal family. The title of "your +lordship" ceases at the expiration of his office. + +Our next visit was to the Royal Exchange, a very noble quadrangle, which +was finished in 1844. It stands finely between the Bank of England and +the Mansion House, and in front there is a sort of open space, or +widening of the streets. This is the third building which has occupied +the same spot--the two earlier ones were both burnt down. The original +Exchange was built by Sir Thomas Gresham, and opened by Queen Elizabeth +in 1570. It was copied from the famous Burse at Antwerp, which still +stands. It is singular that, in the great fires of 1666 and 1838, the +statue of Sir Thomas Gresham escaped uninjured. The Exchange is built of +Portland stone, and already has acquired, from the smoke of London, a +venerable tinge. The portico, I am told, is the largest in the kingdom; +but the one at St. Martin's Church I like better. Crossing over the +road, we were at the Bank of England. This is a truly immense affair. +The walls measure fourteen hundred and sixty feet. It wad built in 1734, +but has had many alterations and additions, and now covers four acres. +We did not go into it. + +The docks of London are among the attractions of the place. They are +called St. Catharine's, London, East India, West India, Commercial, &c. +These are tar too great an affair for me to describe; and to look at +them, and then think of writing an account, is very much like a small +boy opening a book of mathematics and trying to understand it. What do +you think of the tobacco warehouse, at the docks covering five acres? +Then the tea in bonded warehouses was worth twenty-five millions of +dollars; and there are ten millions of pounds of pepper, six millions of +gallons of wine, and other things in proportion. I inquired about the +shipping, and was told that there were about four thousand seven hundred +and fifty vessels, and eighty thousand seamen, employed in the foreign +commerce of the city; and beyond all this, twenty-one thousand coasting +vessels, averaging five or six men to each craft. Nothing in London +amazes us like these docks. Here you see Malays, Turks, Lascars, +Chinese, Russians, Portuguese, Dutch, French, Negroes, and men of all +nations. + +We went several times to walk through Covent Garden Market, and to see +it to advantage you must go very early in the morning. The supply of +fruits and flowers is perfectly astonishing, and the perfume is very +fine. You little imagine, Charley, the prices that early vegetables and +fruits fetch. A cucumber and onion, wrapped up in grape leaves, will, +in February, March, and early part of April, find purchasers at two, +three, and four dollars. Strawberries, peaches, and pines are sold in +early season at what we should think "awful" prices. The hothouse grapes +are very beautiful, and the vegetable productions are more carefully +raised, and in greater variety, than with us. If you want to know all +about Covent Garden Market, you must read Mayhew on London Labor--a nice +book. + +We boys had a treat the other day at an autograph collector's. His +collection was large and rare, but his prices very high. I have saved a +catalogue for you. + +To-morrow we are off for the continent, and we are very busy in making +our arrangements; so I must close. Our next will be from _La Belle +France._ + +Yours affectionately, + +GEORGE. + + + + +Letter 24. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +On a fine morning we left London, by rail, for Dover, in company with +the Rev. Dr. Murray, of New Jersey, and Dr. Chetwood, who made quite a +pleasant addition to our party. On reaching Dover, we were gratified +with the commanding position of the castle, which stands upon the white +chalky cliffs so celebrated by Shakspeare. The town lies in a charming +valley. Dover boasts of high antiquity. The Saxons and Romans both left +enduring memorials of their residence. Its importance was felt at a very +early day, on account of its being the best and authorized port to carry +on intercourse with France. Dover Castle was a strong fortification when +William the Conqueror landed. We found a steamer ready to start, and in +a few minutes were all on board. The Straits of Dover are but twenty-one +miles wide; and yet, in this short passage of barely two hours, we all +suffered sadly from sea sickness. The boat was small, the passengers +were numerous, and all were thankful to plant their feet upon the soil +of the republic. The examination of our passports, and refreshment at +the station-house, occupied about half an hour, and we again entered on +our journey by the rail. I shall say nothing of the place, at present, +as we fully intend to pass a day here, on our return, to examine this +interesting old city. We found the cars good, the railroad excellent but +every thing looked strange. No farms laid out in fine fields, and +divided off by hedges, as in England; or fences and stone walls, as with +us. We every where noticed women working in the field. We passed through +St. Omer, a fortified town, of twenty thousand inhabitants. This is a +town where many English Catholics have been sent for education. We then +came to Lille, which looked like a large city. It has about seventy +thousand inhabitants. The fortifications look very strong, and were +constructed by the great Vauban. This place has been besieged several +times--once by the Duke of Marlborough, for three months, when it +surrendered under Marshal Boufflers. We were amazed at the vast number +of windmills--amounting to hundreds--every where to be seen around the +town; and the tall chimneys in the town tell plainly that this is a +great manufacturing place. The windmills are employed in preparing flax +for linen. + +Douai was our next town. It has about eighteen thousand inhabitants, and +has a foundery for ordnance. The Theological Seminary here has been +famous, and most of the Catholic clergy of England and Ireland were +formerly educated here. Arras is a town of about twenty-five thousand +population, and is celebrated as the birthplace of Robespierre. It is +said to be a very beautiful place, but we saw little of it. The cars +next passed through Amiens, a city of about fifty thousand inhabitants. +It was at this city that a treaty of peace was made between France and +England, in 1802. Clermont is a very neat little town, of about five +thousand inhabitants. It has a fine old castle, and every thing looked +lively and prosperous. Pontoise, on the River Oise, is a small town; +and I should think that, from the upper part of the town, the prospect +is very beautiful. + +We reached Paris in about eleven hours and a half from London. Really, +this seems very strange, that I should breakfast in London and dine at +Paris. After having our luggage examined at the station, by the police, +we repaired at once to the Hotel Windsor, on the Rue Rivoli. This was +the hotel where Dr. C. had his quarters, fifteen years ago; and is it +not strange that we have the same suite of rooms that he then occupied? +We have a fine drawing-room, a dining-room, and three good chambers. Our +hotel is exactly opposite the gardens of the Tuileries, and is in the +pleasantest part of the city. James, you know, was once here for three +months; and he has quite a knowledge of the city, and seems perfectly at +home. We take our breakfast in our apartments or the coffee-room, as +suits us best, at about nine o'clock; our dinners in some good _café_, +in various parts of the city, or at the _table d'hôte_, at Meurice's +Hotel, which is just next door to us. In calling on one or two persons, +we found them in old apartments, but quite noble rooms, as high up as +four and five stories; and we hear that many families live in the same +building, and that many very respectable people live in the sixth, and +even seventh story. This I should never like. Whenever we go out, we +leave our key with the _concierge_ or his wife, who live in a snug +little apartment just inside the great gate, which opens into a +well-paved court. We have determined not to engage a guide in Paris, +because it is often annoying to have a coarse, vulgar mind disturbing +you, when all you ask is silence and your own reflections. It is quite a +mistake to suppose that you cannot get along without a _valet de +place_--for in every hotel, and almost every large establishment, there +are persons to be found who speak English. We paid our respects to our +good friend the consul, and found him very comfortably settled down in +his office, and residing in excellent style. A pleasant evening with his +family made us all think of our old times on board the Arctic. The day +after we arrived was James's birthday, and he was to give us a dinner, +and had invited the consul and his son to dine with us. Well, at five we +met at the consulate, and we boys walked ahead with Mr. G., Jr., leaving +the doctor and the consul to bring up the rear. He supposed that his +father understood where he proposed to take us, and so we went on +speedily. In the Rue Vivienne they lost sight of us; we arrived at the +Café Vachette, on the boulevards, and ordered dinner for the party. The +gentlemen, however, kept walking the street for two hours. At last they +gave up the matter as a bad case, and took refuge for a late dinner by +themselves in a neighboring _café_. At nine we all met, sadly +disappointed. The pleasant occasion had been quite disarranged, and some +hard jokes passed upon our want of tact in not sending out scouts to +search the Rue Vivienne, with the geography of which the doctor declares +he is now perfectly acquainted--having tramped it for two hours with the +consul. Of course, we all have to take their jokes upon our defrauding +them of a fine dinner. We have dined since at the _Trois Frères +Provençaux_, which has the reputation of being one of the best _cafés_ +in Paris. Our room commanded a perfect view of the quadrangle of the +Palais Royal, and the spectacle was highly interesting. The +accommodations of the room we occupied were very fine; and nothing could +surpass the beauty of the table linen, plate, &c. We are about to +commence the sights of the city in earnest, and are this evening to +arrange our plans. + +Yours affectionately, + +GEORGE. + + + + +Letter 25. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +I like this city very much--every one seems so happy out of doors. Not +only the poor, but the wealthy, are fond of the open air; and a great +deal of time is spent in the gardens and on the boulevards. Every place +seems to have provision made for the enjoyment of the people. Ices and +lemonade are to be found wherever you go. The appearance of the streets +in Paris is much gayer than those of London. You see a much greater +number of women walking out, and they are generally very neatly dressed. +But the streets do not look as substantial as they do in London. If +there is more that is imposing, there is less that keeps up your wonder. +I do not feel able to think that the people here have much business to +do, for every one seems to be engaged in pleasure; and yet there are +great concerns going on, and the fine manufactures of this city are only +to be done by labor and attention. Nothing, at our first glances at the +city, have pleased us more than the profusion of flowers every where to +be seen. It is quite common to see men with a rose in the button hole, +or a beautiful carnation. The roses are my admiration. I never saw such +beauties before; and whether it is owing to the climate, or to +scientific cultivation, I know not, but certainly I never have beheld +such variety or perfection. In the flower shops you will find very large +bunches of rosebuds, each bunch made up exclusively of buds of one size, +from the dimensions of a pea in all gradations up to the diameter of a +half dollar--not a leaf opened, simply a bouquet of rosebuds, and the +whole embowered in a delicate sheet of white paper. I reckoned the +contents of one, and found two hundred and sixty-seven buds not larger +than a common pea, and the price was only a franc. The moss roses are +beyond all my conceptions of floral beauty; and, go where I may, I find +every niche of ground adorned with standard roses of various hues, and +the walls and windows are beautified with brilliant geraniums, which are +evidently great favorites. + +We had a funny affair yesterday. We all went to make a call upon Mr. +D----, and found his residence in a splendid part of the city; but, +instead of being ushered into his drawing-room, we were brought into the +saloon of no less a personage than the Lord Bishop of Jamaica! He +politely directed us to the next apartment, where we spent an agreeable +hour with the family, and found that similar mistakes occur almost +daily. + +Our first tramp for a sight was to Notre Dame; and I shall never forget, +Charley, my first view of this cathedral. The exterior is more striking +than any church edifice that I have yet seen. No engraving can afford a +fair idea of its grandeur to one who has not seen it, though it will +help my mind, to recall its beauties whenever I see the picture. You are +so well read about Paris, that I hardly need tell you that eight +centuries have rolled away since Notre Dame was built. It is regarded as +the noblest Gothic pile in France, and is the pride of Paris. The front +is one hundred and twenty feet wide, and the richness of the carvings +upon the exterior is wonderful. I am really glad to see that great pains +are taking to restore and adorn this church. The decayed stones are +taken out, and new ones replaced, and the carvings also are renewed +where necessary, so that future ages may see what so delights us. The +two towers are forty feet square and two hundred high, and you ascend by +a staircase of four hundred steps. The form of the church is that of the +Latin cross. Its dimensions inside are four hundred feet by one hundred +and forty, and the height is one hundred feet. All through the cathedral +is a line of Gothic arches supported by columns, and, as you enter the +great door, you see the entire edifice. The walls look bare to my eye, +in spite of the paintings. We were much pleased at seeing the spot where +Napoleon was crowned; and George was in ecstasies, for you know how +thoroughly he goes in for his beau ideal of the hero. Here are, the +splendid candelabra which the emperor gave on the occasion. We heard +mass, but the service was very formal, and the priest might have been a +real downeaster, for he had a horrid nasal twang, and his +"_sanctissime_" was "_shanktissime_." The history of these churches is +strange, and I think a pretty good book might be written on the romance +of church architecture. The portal of the north aisle of the choir was +erected by a vile assassin, the Duke of Burgundy, who murdered his +cousin, the Duke of Orleans, in 1407. This, of course, was his penance, +and fully expiated his crime. The great bell weighs thirty-two thousand +pounds, and was baptized in presence of Louis XIV., and is called +Emanuel Louise Therese, after his queen. I cannot attempt to describe +the beauties of this building, inside or out. The exterior is all flying +buttresses, crocketed pinnacles, and sculpture. Inside you see chapel +after chapel; and as to windows of painted glass, they are studies for +hours. The rose windows are exquisite. + +We repaired to a small chapel used as a sacristy, or treasure-house of +the church. Here we saw the coronation robes of Napoleon, and splendid +capes and embroideries, in gold and silver, given by Charles X. and +Louis Philippe; and here, too, is the vertebræ of the late Archbishop of +Paris, who was killed in the revolution of 1848. The bone has a silver +arrow tracing the course of the bullet, which lies beside it. This is in +time to be a saintly relic, but it seems to me a filthy sight, and in +wretched taste. But Popery knows well what to do with dead men's bones. +For a minute description of this church, I would refer you to three +volumes, called the "History of Paris," published by Galignani. On our +return we went to the Hotel de Ville, and had the company of M. O----n, +whose kindness did much for us on several occasions. The Hotel de +Ville stands in the Place de Grève, where so much blood has been shed in +other days. Here the martyrs of the Protestant faith have been put to +death. Here it was that Dubourg was strangled and burnt by order of +Francis II. Dubourg was a noble character. His last words were, "Father, +abandon me not; neither will I abandon thee." + +This noble pile was begun in 1533, and only completed in 1841, and in +the modern improvements fifteen millions have been expended. The whole +now forms an immense quadrangle. The front is Corinthian, with pillars +and niches between the windows. A vast number of statues adorn the +front, and others are in preparation. + +It was at the doorway in the centre that Lamartine, "the noblest Roman +of them all," so gloriously withstood the mob in February, 1848, +declaring that the red flag should not be the flag of France. I wish you +could see this palace, for such it is, though occupied by the city +authorities. London has nothing to approach it in splendor. The +staircases are gorgeous, and are so rich in sculpture that only a +sculptor could properly speak of them. We saw the room where Robespierre +held his council and attempted suicide, and also the window where our +Lafayette embraced Louis Philippe, and presented him to the mob in +1830. It is the same window where poor Louis XVI. addressed the savages, +when he wore the cap of liberty. By the way, I hate the sight of that +cap, which always reminds me of the lamp-post executions of the French +capital in 1792-3. Its prevalence in our happy country is owing to the +French mania which once possessed the people, and has very much died +out. The apartments are regal, and some of them, I think, quite superior +to those of Windsor Castle. In this building is a fine library, and here +are deposited the vast collection of American books obtained by +Vattemare, whom, you recollect, we saw at Washington. + +I cannot tell you how sorely vexed we are to find the Louvre shut up for +repairs and decoration; every week they say it is to be reopened, but I +fear we shall leave Paris ere it happens. + +How much we would all give to have you here; for, though we are glad to +tell you what we see, we feel there are scores of objects which interest +us that we have to pass over, but which would make your eyes glisten, if +you could gaze upon. Well, my dear fellow, stick to your business, make +your fortune, and then come and look at the beautiful and fair in the +old world; and who knows but perhaps we may yet chat cosily together in +Paris? O, I do love to wander through this city by moonlight, and gaze +upon the bright, lofty buildings as they loom up so gloriously in the +mild lustre of a silvery night. God bless you. + +Yours affectionately, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 26. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We have been to dine at the Palais Royal, at the _Trois Frères +Provençaux_, of which I suppose the boys have told you; and I shall only +speak about the fine building, so renowned all over the world. The +Palais Royal is to Paris what Paris is to France. Its history is briefly +this: Cardinal Richelieu built it for himself; but the king, Louis +XIII., was jealous, and the wily old priest gave it to the monarch, and, +after Richelieu's death, he moved into it. In 1692, it fell into the +hands of Philippe, Duke of Orleans, as a gift, or marriage portion, from +Louis XIV., and here the great Orleans collection of paintings was +gathered, and which was sold in 1789, at the breaking out of the great +troubles. In 1814, Louis Philippe obtained it as his inheritance, and +lived there till 1831. The garden is very fine, and is about seven +hundred and fifty feet by three hundred, and has beautiful rows of +lime-trees, trimmed into shape, as are most of these trees in Paris. In +the centre are flower gardens and a basin of water, with a fine +fountain. In this open space are beautiful bronze and marble statues. +One I admired exceedingly; it is Eurydice, stung by a snake. In this +garden are hundreds of persons under the trees, on chairs, which are +hired, where they read and take refreshments. Under the arcades which +surround the area are the most tasty shops of Paris, and where you may +get any thing you please. A gayer sight than this same Palais Royal, or, +as they now call it, Palais National, cannot be seen in this world. I +shall not attempt to tell you about the apartments of the palace, and +which you can read of at your leisure. What a loss it was to the world +when, in February, 1848, six hundred thousand engravings, all classified +by Louis Philippe, and making one hundred and twenty-two enormous +folios, were destroyed by the mob, and the queen's own library also! + +We lounged about from one shop to another, and made purchases of some +pretty things, which we hope may serve to show friends at home that we +did not quite forget them. + +The Passage d'Orleans will never die out from my memory, nor shall I +ever forget the Café d'Orleans, with its mirrors, walls, and ceilings, +all radiant with a thousand lights. We find at every few steps the +magazine for the Indian weed, and all varieties of pipe, from the +commonest _en bois_ to the elegantly carved _ecume de mer_, which would +cost two or three hundred francs. Here, too, are the Theatres Français +and Palais Royal, and other places of amusement. + +In our walks about the city we are sure to have all the notable places +pointed out; and one morning, just after I had obtained a Henry IV. +silver coin, in fine preservation, we were taken home by a long walk +through the Rue St. Honore. The house No. 3, in this street, is the one +in front of which Henry IV. was assassinated by Ravaillac. A bust of the +king stands against the second story, with an inscription. In the Rue +Vivienne, No. 34, we saw the house where Molière died, on which is a +marble tablet, with this inscription: "_Molière est mort dans cette +maison, le _17_ Février_, 1673, _à l'âge de_ 51 _ans._" At the corner of +the same street, where a small passage way branches off, is a fine +monument to the memory of the great poet and the noblest comic writer of +France. The statue is of bronze, in a sitting posture; on each side are +figures,--one humorous, the other serious,--both looking at the statue. +At the foot of the monument is a basin to receive water, which flows +from three lions' heads. This work was put up in 1844, with public +services, on which occasion the first men of France took a part. Another +morning's walk led us to the Rue de l'École de Médecine, and in this +street Marat lived, at No. 20, and here it was, in a small room, that he +was stabbed, while bathing, by Charlotte Corday, in 1793. And in this +same street was held the old club of the Cordeliers. + +When I see the places of which I have heard so often it seems very +interesting, and will forever identify the scenes with my future +reading. + +We all enjoyed a visit to the palace of the Luxembourg. This edifice was +begun in the sixteenth century, and the present palace was chiefly built +early in the next one, by Marie de Medicis, in imitation of one at +Florence. Bonaparte used it when chief consul. The old senate held its +sessions there till its dissolution, in 1814. I never saw a building +whose proportions appeared to me so elegant. The court is a +parallelogram of three hundred and sixty by three hundred feet. The +front consists of two pavilions, joined by terraces, and in the centre +rises a cupola, around which are statues. In such a palace fine rooms +are to be expected, and here they are in great number. The Senate +Chamber or Chamber of Peers, is very suitable for its purpose. The +library is good, and contains about fifteen thousand volumes. The +picture gallery is large, and at present principally filled with +pictures of living artists, and at his death the picture of each one is +removed to the Louvre. All the great paintings of Napoleon's battles are +gone to Versailles; so we shall see them in the series. The chapel is an +exquisite gem: it has, beyond all comparison, the most devotional air +of any thing I have seen _of the sort_. + +The gardens are fine, and have some noble terraces, adorned with plenty +of statues, some of which are quite old; but a great many new ones, by +living artists, are rapidly taking their places. The balustrades of the +terraces are beautified with groups of children, athletæ, &c. Here are +some fine old orange-trees, which were throwing out their blossoms most +fragrantly; and I must not forget the noble clusters of chestnut-trees +which are on the sides of the walks. The garden is a lovely spot, and I +saw hundreds of old and young, who seemed to enjoy themselves highly. I +am half surprised to find myself more delighted in Europe with the +completeness and splendor of the gardens and public grounds than with +the palaces and their internal gorgeousness. If I could carry back to my +own beloved country any thing from England or France, it should be their +gardens, their walks, their libraries and museums. As to the comforts +and elegances of life, we have enough of them for our good. The Musée +d'Artillerie is quite a place of interest, and here are seen some fine +suits of ancient armor. The arrangement is good, and an hour's attention +is well repaid. + +Yours affectionately, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 27. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +This has been a great day for enjoyment, and has made us all in love +with Paris. We have seen, this morning, that which has pleased me more +than all else I have looked at in Europe. We spent several hours at the +Hotel de Cluny, in the Rue des Mathurins. I am surprised that so many +Americans come to Paris and never see this castle of curiosities. To +understand our gratification, I must bore you a little with its history, +and then you will see what a treat we enjoyed. This venerable pile was +erected on the site of the Palais des Thermes, formerly the +dwelling-place of the Roman governors of Gaul. Here Julian lived when he +was made emperor of Rome, in 360. Of the extraordinary remains of this +palace I shall tell you by and by. On this spot, then, in 1480, an abbot +of Cluny commenced this building, and it was completed in 1505. This +magnificent monastery--the city residence of the monks of Cluny--was +often made the residence of royal and distinguished visitors. Here for +two years lived Mary, the daughter of Henry VII. of England, and widow +of Louis XII. of France, who, while here, married the Duke of Suffolk. +Her chamber still exists, and we saw it in high preservation. This +marriage, you will remember, laid the foundation for the claim of Lady +Jane Grey to the crown. Here, too, for a season, the excellent abbess +and the nuns of Port Royal found a refuge. Some forty years ago, it came +into the hands of M. Sommerard, a man devoted to antiquarian pursuits, +and here he expended a large property in forming a vast collection of +all sorts of relics he could gather belonging to the medieval ages. A +few years ago, he died, and then the government wisely purchased the +hotel and its unrivalled museum for half a million of francs; and +additions are constantly made to it of every curiosity that can +illustrate the habits and manners of the early history of France and +Europe. The building is very striking in its first aspect. It has +several Gothic turrets, and very rich windows, and the court yards and +garden are all in keeping. What good times those old abbots, and monks +must have had in their visits to Paris, in such a palace as this was! +You pass from room, to room, all filled with the antique, till you get +leg-weary. The floors are exquisitely beautiful--some in fine old black +oak, let in, in patterns; others are bricks and tiles, in mosaic. Then +the old mantel-pieces are wonderfully fine. We saw plenty of tapestry, +old as the hills; and one set of hangings was the history of David and +Bathsheba. Some of the bedsteads are very curious. One belonged to +Francis I. Perhaps the largest and most valuable collection of carved +Wood furniture in the world is here to be seen. Such cabinets, chairs, +tables, chests, I never imagined. The work is of the most delicate and +complicated character. Then you find a wonderful collection of glass and +earthen ware--cups and goblets belonging to men of note of every age in +French history. One room is full of ancient armor, another of gems, +enamels, &c, another of pictures of the most curious kind; and as to +mirrors and looking-glasses, they are in great plenty; and china enough +to make some ladies in America whom I know break the commandment. + +You can fancy, Charley, what sort of a place this must be, when I tell +you that the catalogue of this collection is a volume of two hundred and +forty octavo pages, and embraces eighteen hundred and ninety-five +particulars. I have the catalogue, and can assure you that it includes +some queer antiquities, of which we cannot speak particularly at +present. + +A word or two about the ruins of Julian's Palace of the Baths. Here is +still a vast hall, which was doubtless the place for cold baths. The +dimensions are sixty feet by thirty-five. In the cellars are the evident +remains of the warm baths. The walls are of immense thickness, and will +probably last as long as the earth on which they rest. This hall is the +place of deposit for any Roman sculpture that may be found in the +excavations of the city. + +I am sure that, next to the Crystal Palace, this has been our greatest +treat. We enjoyed this morning the more, because we had the company of +Mr. George Sumner, who has lived in Paris so long that he is perfectly +familiar with every object of interest. I never met with any one who +appeared to have so much local knowledge as he possesses. He knows the +history of every thing, and he seems at home on all names, dates, and +facts of other ages. Whenever we read up, after a walk with him, we find +that he knows all that is known; and in truth he talks like a book, but +better than most books. The attention of this gentleman has been very +great to us boys, and he seems never tired when doing us kindness. But +if Mr. S. knows places well, he is no less intimate with men; and +probably no American has ever enjoyed his opportunities to cultivate the +acquaintance of the best and greatest men in Paris. + +We have visited the Church of St. Sulpice, which was begun in 1655, and +only completed late in the last century. The portico is very grand, and +is a double row of Doric pillars, forty feet high. It has two towers, +which are over two hundred feet high, and on which are telegraphs. The +church forms a cross, and is four hundred and thirty-two feet in +length, one hundred and seventy-four in width, and ninety-nine in +height. The organ is finely carved, and is more elaborate in its work +than any I have seen yet. The statuary, both in bronze and marble, here, +is beautiful, and the candelabra are greatly admired. As to pictures, I +can only say they are many and fine. The marble monument and statue to +Languet de Gergy, the former _curé_ of this parish, and who mainly +contributed to its erection or completion, is much admired, and on this +tomb is the most elegant inscription of modern times. But I cannot +insert it here. Directly in front of the church, in an open square, is a +very fine fountain, which partakes of the ecclesiastical in its +style--having in four niches the statues of Bossuet, Massillon, +Fléchier, and Fénélon. + +In our walk we were all struck with an immense wooden pile, which we +found was the Bibliothèque St. Geneviéve. The front is very chaste, and +has very many arched windows. The library is more than three hundred +feet in length, and is covered on the exterior with the names of all the +great authors of every age and nation. We saw the names of many of our +countrymen--Washington, Franklin, Rumford, Clinton, Cooper, Prescott, +Irving, &c. We were unable to enter, as repairs were in progress, but +were told that the library has two hundred thousand volumes, and +several thousand MSS. + +We have all been much gratified with the Church of St. Etienne du Mont. +It boasts an antiquity that dates back to 1131, and its tower and turret +are known to be as early as 1222. The exterior is remarkable for a +strange mixture of architecture, and some of the details are very +beautiful. The interior cannot fail to interest a thoughtful person, I +think. The pictures are very fine indeed, and some of the marbles are of +the highest excellence. We went into the little Chapel of St. Genevieve, +the patron saint of Paris, where is the tomb of the saint. The tomb was +literally stuck over with small tallow candles, and looked like a piece +of meat larded. The room was filled with worshippers, all on their +knees; and two women had as much anguish in their faces as I ever saw. +All the people kneeling at this tomb seemed far more intent and in +earnest than the hundreds at grand mass in the church proper. Just as we +stepped outside this chapel, we found on the wall the monuments of +Racine and Pascal, who are both buried in this church. The church was +full of people, and in one little chapel the priest was baptizing an +infant. We went in and looked on. It was the first time I had ever +witnessed this monstrous mummery in the Catholic church; and I called in +the Dr. and Mr. S., who were looking at some statuary. The priest was +hardly decent at his work. He did it all in a hurry,--put oil and +something else on the child, fore and aft,--and how men and women could +stand and let the stupidity take place on their children, I cannot +understand. After seeing Pascal's grave, and thinking of his immortal +works, it was poor preparation for the mountebank exhibition, and +awkward work of making Christians, that we witnessed. You know, Charley, +that I am not a lover of Romanism, but I never felt so thankful as on +that day for being a Protestant. + +The pictures of this church are very well worthy of careful +notice--especially two, said to have been given by the city to the +saint, who caused a famine to stay its ravages, and restored a sick king +by intercession. + +Now, pray, do not think me church mad if I carry you once more to +another old one. I am sure, if you had seen it, that it would cause you +to talk about it often. Well, it is the Church St. Germain des Pres. +This is regarded as the oldest in Paris, and was originally an abbey. +There was a church here as early as 560. This was probably built about +the middle of the ninth century, and its completion was in the twelfth; +for it was consecrated by Pope Alexander III. In this church was the +tomb of Childebert, the founder of the first edifice. The abbey had a +refectory, cloisters, &c, was surrounded by a moat, and had been +fortified. A large open field, close by, was the resort of duellists, +and many a bloody affray has there occurred. Casimir, King of Poland, +was an abbot of this church. The revolution was sadly injurious to this +fine sanctuary, and it was for a time converted into a saltpetre +manufactory. Charles X. repaired it, and after him Louis Philippe +carefully superintended its restoration. The inside of the church is a +cross, with a circular choir; and the arches are semi-circular, and +indicate great antiquity. The restoration of the nave and choir has been +most carefully done, at immense expense. The roof of the choir is +painted deep blue, with stars. The capitals of the columns are richly +gilt, and the shafts are painted in red stripes--exact copies of the old +devices. Nothing can be finer than the marble altar and the carved +stalls of the choir. Nor does the church lack for historical names among +its dead. Here are the tombs of Earl Douglass, Descartes, Mabillon, +Montfaucon, and Casimir of Poland, who died, abbot, in 1672. Every thing +here in ecclesiastical architecture is so different from all that we +have in our country, that I examine these noble relics with great +pleasure, and do not know but I shall soon become as antiquarian in my +taste as-you know who. + +Yours affectionately, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 28. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +On a fine morning we rode over to the Jardin des Plantes, accompanied by +Mr. R----, whose long residence has made him very familiar with this +lovely spot. I think we all looked forward to this excursion with great +anticipation, because we knew that this was the most famous garden in +Europe; and then, in connection with it, are the richest cabinets in the +world of natural history, mineralogy, geology, and a noble collection of +living animals from all countries. Ever since 1635, the world has been +placed under contribution to enrich this spot. The greatest botanists +and naturalists of Europe have labored here. Buffon himself was the +great man of the place in his day. Even revolutionary fury spared this +retreat and treasury of Nature. Bonaparte made it his pet, and when the +troops of Europe were at the walls of Paris, they agreed to respect and +preserve the spot so dear to science. This establishment is on the banks +of the river, and there are many portals by which entrance may be +obtained. The gardens are very large, but I cannot speak of their exact +size. They are in the neatest order. Every shrub and flower, plant and +tree, is labelled, so that reference is easy. I was delighted to see, +on a lofty eminence, the cedar of Lebanon. It is a glorious tree, and +was planted here in 1734, and is now about twelve feet round at its +base. We also saw some palm-trees which were given by Louis XIV. They +were, I should think, nearly thirty feet high. + +The Menagerie has long been famous, and is most admirably laid out in +walks and enclosures, so that the animals have plenty of room for +exercise and pasture. Since the days of Noah's ark, I suppose there +never was such a collection of animals, clean and unclean. The bears, +elephants, lions, and tigers are all what are called first-rate +specimens. + +We were pointed out the house where the celebrated Cuvier lived, and +which was his favorite residence. Here was his life's labor, the +Zoölogical Cabinet, which he arranged according to his system. Only +fancy a house about four hundred feet long, having three stories, and +all filled up with nearly two hundred thousand specimens; and the +preparations are almost as fine as the animal was in life. + +The Museum of Comparative Anatomy, also, was the labor of Cuvier. The +collections of mineralogy and geology are very extensive; but I did not +have much time to examine them, nor are they as much in my line as some +other things. The specimens of precious stones were curious, and I was +pleased to see amber containing perfect insects, perhaps antediluvian +insects. And so we employed three hours upon what I should have liked to +pass three whole days. But it would take years of diligent study to +understand what is here to be seen. + +If a person walks about Paris and inquires much as to the history of the +city and its improvements, as we Americans say, he will soon find that +Paris has been chiefly indebted for her grandeur to Henry IV., Louis +XIV., Napoleon, and Louis Philippe. Bridges, places, arches, and +fountains show how much Paris owes to these rulers. Of fountains there +are, I should think, nearly a hundred in the city, and some are +exceedingly fine. The Seine is not much of an affair. With us, it would +be only a muddy brook. Some of the bridges that span it are fine. I have +seen nothing in Paris more picturesque than the prospect from the Pont +Neuf. It is my favorite stand point. Off to the right are the towers of +Notre Dame, and the long line of old houses which tell of centuries upon +centuries since they were built; and on the left of the river are the +Hotel de Ville, St. Germain L'Auxerrois; and some of the most venerable +streets. From the bell tower of St. Germain the signal was rung for the +infamous massacre of the Protestants, on St. Bartholomew's eve, 23d of +August, 1572. In the Rue de l'Arbre sec, at No. 14, was Admiral Coligny +murdered on that occasion. It was formerly known as the Hotel Ponthieu, +but is to be demolished in a few weeks, to make way for improvements. We +felt a desire to see the spot where the Bastile formerly stood, and +which was destroyed by the mob in July, 1789, and the key of which is +now at Mount Vernon, having been sent as a present to Washington. This +was the theatre of the greatest resistance made by the insurgents in +June, 1848; and here, too, it was that the Archbishop of Paris met with +his death. On the site of the Bastile, Louis Philippe laid the +foundation of a column which commemorates the revolution of 1830. This +column is of bronze, and is one hundred and sixty-three feet high, in +addition to the pedestal of white marble, supported by immense granite +blocks. The diameter of the column is, I believe, twelve feet, and it +cost about twelve hundred thousand francs. There is no masonry in the +interior. The staircase is suspended, and the whole concern vibrates +with the passing breeze. I did not ascend, you may be sure. The +Corinthian capital, over which is a gallery with rails, is very +beautiful, and is the largest casting in bronze that is known--or, +rather, was, for I _think_ that the Amazon at the London Exhibition will +take the palm for size. On the globe which surmounts the pillar stands a +colossal gilt figure, which represents Liberty. On the bands which +encircle the pillar are the names of those who were killed in the +three days of July, amounting to fire hundred and four. All around and +beneath are interred the remains of these patriots. + +[Illustration: Colonne de Juillet.] + +We are going to take the Cemetery at Père la Chaise for to-morrow's +excursion; and the rest of the day I must devote to letters home, as the +packet day is close at hand. + +Yours, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 29. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +This morning, as we were taking a very comfortable breakfast at the +coffee-room of our hotel, and as I was reading Galignani's daily paper, +I found a person at the next table addressing me, in nasal twang, +"Stranger, is this fellow Galignani a reliable chap?" I assured him that +he passed for an authority. Laying down his paper on the table, he +pathetically described the tramp which the programme for the +sight-seeing of yesterday's paper had given him, and declared his +inability to keep up with the instructions for that day. Finding that he +was a character, I carried on the conversation; and he talked most +edifyingly to all in the room, as he spoke loud enough to be heard at +the very end. I inquired if he had been to London. His reply was, "I +reckon I have; why, I come on purpose to see the _Crystial_ Palace." +"Well, sir," I said, "and how did you like it?" "O, that exhibition is +some!" "And pray, sir, what did you think of the Greek Slave?" "There, +now, stranger, I takes it that where she were raised _cotton was +dreadful scarce."_ This, was too much and too good; and I think it is by +far the best thing I have heard about the exhibition. How the boys +managed to keep quiet, I know not; but they did as well as could be +expected. The room was thoroughly awake, and I resigned our countryman +to other hands. + +After breakfast, we rode to the Cemetery of Père la Chaise. This spot +has for centuries been celebrated for its beauty; and, for a period of +more than one hundred years, the Jesuits had a country residence here. +They had it early in the sixteenth century, or, perhaps, at the close of +the fifteenth. Louis XIV. made his confessor, Père la Chaise, the +superior of the society; and in 1705 it was the head-quarters of +Jesuitism in France. + +The present cemetery was consecrated in 1804; and the entire grounds are +walled in, and they are very nearly two hundred acres. You know how much +I admire Greenwood and Mount Auburn. Well, I still prefer them to this +Golgotha. The walks are some of them fine, but the tombs are too thick. +There is no regularity. It looks as though there had been a rain storm +of tombs and monuments, and they lie as they fell. This is the very +metropolis of death. Some of the monuments are elegant indeed, but often +their beauties are hidden. The most attractive spot to us was the +resting-place of "the bravest of the brave." Ney yet has no monument. +The tombs of Casimir Perrier, the Countess Demidoff, Abelard and +Héloise, General Macdonald, Lavalette, Gobert, Foy, Molière, Laplace, +and Junot are some that pleased us most, and are exquisite specimens of +art. Many of these tombs have small rooms, with altars and glass doors. +Opposite the altar is a chair, and we saw several mourners in devout +attitude at the shrine of affection. I have heard from a Parisian of +great intelligence, and who has been connected with the city government, +that very nearly, if not quite, thirty millions of dollars have been +spent upon this cemetery. Of course, the expense of sculpture here has +been enormous, as the best talent of Europe has contributed to adorn the +spot, and perpetuate the memory of the departed. + +On leaving this charnel-house of mortality, we drove to the Abattoir de +Popincourt, which is the largest in the city, and occupies six hundred +and forty-five feet by fire hundred and seventy. On entering, we found +four slaughter-houses, each standing alone. Here, too, are sheds for +four thousand sheep, and stables for four hundred oxen. There are also +four melting-houses. We also noticed a large building called the +_Triperie_, for preparing tripe and the feet of animals. The week we +were there the statistics of slaughter were as follows: Eight hundred +and seventy-two oxen, three hundred and fifty-six cows, seven hundred +calves, and two thousand eight hundred and seventy-five sheep. Nothing +of the sort can be kept cleaner than this establishment. The water ran +down every channel, and very little blood could be seen, or effluvia +noticed. When will New York have its _abattoirs_? No city in the world +needs such an auxiliary to health and comfort more than she does. +Perhaps the good people will call for one after a few more visitations +of cholera. There are four other similar establishments in Paris. + +We had a nice ride home round the boulevards, and, stopping at the +consul's office, found a famous budget of letters and papers, and with +great pleasure we addressed ourselves to their contents. I am amused to +see how various are the demands made upon the time and services of a +consul. He needs to have the patience of Job; and if he answers +satisfactorily and authoritatively the questions which I have heard +propounded, he ought to have in his library the acts of every state +legislature in the Union. Marriage, death, removal of deceased +relatives from their places of sepulture, rates of interest, value of +stocks, condition of railroads, and statistics of all sorts have been +topics which I have heard laid before him for advice and opinion. Very +few men, however, possess more general knowledge of the United States +than our consul--Mr. Goodrich--does; and his kindness will lead him to +do all he can to satisfy the querist. + +Yours, as ever, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 30. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Yesterday we went to the Cirque, in the Champs Elysées. It is a very +large building, with sixteen sides, and behind is another spacious one +for the horses. The intention of the builder was to represent a Moorish +hall; and the pillars of iron are, with the panellings of the walls, +gilt and frescoed. The roof is very elegant, and the largest chandelier +in Paris is in the centre, blazing with I cannot tell you how many gas +lights. The circus will accommodate about six or seven thousand people, +and when we were there it was very nearly full. We paid two francs each, +and had the best seats. The performances were very good, and some quite +beyond any thing I had before seen. There was one feat that was really +great. They placed planks upon supporters, from the centre of the circus +up to the edge of the gallery, making an angle of about fifty feet. +Well, Charley, a fellow walked in with a ball, about three quarters of a +yard in diameter, and on this ball he trotted about on the ground for +perhaps two minutes; then he marches it to the foot of this plank, still +standing on it, and up he goes,--yes, he totes and coaxes the ball under +his feet, up, up,--till at last he stands on it on the gallery; and +then, did not the place ring again with applause? But then it is not +over; for down he comes the selfsame way--and that is the tug of war; +but he did it. This he did _backwards_, also, each way. I never saw any +thing before that would equal this, and I want to see him do it again +before we leave Paris. The horsemanship was very good. But there was one +fellow who threw himself into the very oddest attitudes you can fancy. +He looked, as he moved about on the earth, like any thing but a human. +We were all much amused with the audience. Entire families were there. +You could see parties coming in where there was no mistake about +grandfather and grandmother, father, mother, and all the children. It +seems that all classes here have a taste for amusement, and pursue it +with much earnestness. The audience behaved very well--every thing was +quiet. I noticed a great many well-dressed women who carried round +crickets to the ladies, for their feet, and for this they got a few +sous. + +As we returned, we found, in the grounds through which we walked, scores +of establishments for juvenile amusement--stalls where there are +exhibitions of moving figures, and at which you may shoot with bow and +arrow by paying a small price. Not far from the Cirque we met with an +out-door concert, in a very tasty garden--the performers all occupying a +fine orchestra. The audience were seated at tables in the garden, taking +ice cream, lemonade, coffee, &c. Now and then one of the singers would +pass round and take up a collection. + +This day we went to the Hippodrome, which is a very large enclosure, +nearly opposite the Triumphal Arch. This is no less than three hundred +and eighty feet in diameter, and will seat all of ten thousand persons, +who are under shelter, but the course-ground is open to the heavens. +This place is open from three to five during the warm weather, and is +under the same management as the Cirque. Our great object in coming was +to see the ball feat again, and also the skirmishes of some twenty +Arabs, who are here exhibiting their tactics. I never saw a more +reckless, savage-looking set of fellows than they were. Only one looked +like a venerable Arab--he did look patriarchal. They had several sham +attacks, and rode about shooting helter skelter, looking as if they +would enjoy the real thing much better. These fellows are said to be +some of the Algerine captives brought over by the French. Our friend Mr. +Hodgson, who lived so long in Turkey, and speaks Arabic, talked with +them, much to their surprise. + +We have determined to leave Paris this week, and commence our journey +through Belgium, Holland, go up the Rhine, and take Switzerland on our +return to Paris--and perhaps we may leave to-morrow. I ought not to omit +saying that we have had a very pleasant Sunday in our own parlor here. +We did not feel much like going to the French church that morning; and +the doctor invited the Rev. Dr. Murray, Dr. Chetwood, Rev. Mr. Darling, +Judge Darling, Rev. Mr. Hovey, Mr. King, and some other friends to join +us, and have a religious meeting. It was a very interesting one, too. +Dr. Murray spoke about the state of France, the need the French had of +our Sunday, and how they could not be a free and happy people, and get +along without soldiers, till they had it. All the ministers took part; +and I shall not very soon forget that day; and then I think we all +thought a good deal about home, as each minister talked and prayed for +our families. + +Our next letters will, I suppose, be from Brussels. + + +Yours, &c., + +GEORGE. + + + + +Letter 31. + + +BRUSSELS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +The fine weather, and the advantage of having pleasant company, has +induced us to leave Paris and pursue our journey, leaving many things to +see in the great metropolis when we return. I forgot to tell you that in +Paris I had the pleasure to meet an English clergyman, a relative of +mine, who was there passing the honey-moon. This gentleman and his lady +joined our party; and we are now to go together as far as Antwerp, +certainly. We took the rail from Paris direct to Brussels,--a distance +of two hundred and thirty miles,--and passed through Amiens, Arras, +Douai, Valenciennes, Quievrain, St. Jemappes,--here King Louis Philippe, +with General Dumourier, in 1792, gained a battle over an Austrian army, +and so gained Belgium to France, little thinking that his son-in-law +would be its king,--Mons, Bruin le Compte, Halle, and so to Brussels. At +Quievrain we found the custom-house of Belgium, and the little river, +called Aunelle, is the boundary of the republic. Mons is a fine-looking +place, fortified strongly. The region is one entire coal field, and +there are many pits in operation. Ten miles from Mons Marlborough fought +the battle of Malplaquet, in 1709. When we passed, the town was in +great commotion with the trial of Count Bocarmé and his wife for the +murder of her brother. She was by some means acquitted, but he was +convicted and executed by the guillotine. + +As soon as we entered Belgium, we were struck with the improvement of +the lands. The small towns look remarkably thrifty, and every place +seems to speak of manufactures and industry. + +At Brussels, we put up at the Hotel Bellevue, in the Place Royale. The +situation is good. In a large square, and in front of our hotel, is the +magnificent statue, in bronze, of Godfrey, Duke of Boulogne, the cast of +which we so admired as the Crusader, in the exhibition. In this square +Leopold was inaugurated King of Belgium. + +Every traveller enters Brussels with expectation of pleasure. He has +heard that it is Paris in miniature; and then Byron has thrown around it +his witchery of song. I can see but a dull and dim resemblance to Paris. +Brussels, with its suburbs, which are quite large, has only a population +of one hundred and thirty thousand. The town is very clean, looks cosy, +and has some very beautiful edifices. But you come here full of fancy +about "Belgium's capital," "her beauty and her chivalry," and the +"windowed niche of that high hall," and you see at first only a plain, +good, comfortable town. However, there is quite enough of romance, +after all, in this same place; and when you traverse it thoroughly, you +find enough to call out deep interest; and before you leave it you are +much gratified, and, in all probability, feel desirous to see it again. +I like to be in places that have a history; and this Brussels has. Let +me tell you about this place. It stands on the brow of a high bill, and +the upper and lower towns are different affairs entirely. The summit is +covered with palaces, public buildings, boulevards, parks, &c, and the +lower part is in the valley of the River Senne. Brussels was a city in +709. In 976, the Emperor Otho held his court there; in 1044, it was +fortified and had seven gates; in 1405, a fire destroyed fourteen +hundred houses; and in 1549, it suffered from two earthquakes. But still +it grew and flourished under the dukes of Burgundy, and became famous +for tapestry, lace, and fire-arms. In the days of Charles V., the city +of Brussels was at its zenith. Philip II., his son, and his infamous +general, the Duke of Alva, ravaged this city and vicinage. The people +were fanatical, and the rulers cruel. In 1695, the city was besieged, +and four thousand houses destroyed by the bombardment. In 1794, Belgium +was annexed to France. After the battle of Waterloo, the Prince of +Orange was proclaimed sovereign of Belgium. In 1830, the revolution +displaced the Orange dynasty, and Belgium broke off from Holland; and +in 1831, the people chose Leopold for their king. The first thing I +wanted to see was the Hotel de Villa, which, many years ago, pleased me +exceedingly; and I think all our party have been delighted with it. This +is the noblest civil building in Belgium; it stands in a fine square, +and is a glorious specimen of the Lombardy Gothic school. The spire is +of open fretwork, and the sun shines through it. It has long been +esteemed as one of the most precious works of architecture in Europe. +The extreme height is three hundred and sixty-four feet, and it was +erected in 1444. On the spire is a gilt statue of St. Michael, seventeen +feet high, which turns with the wind. In front of this town hall Counts +Egmont and Horn were executed, under the eye of Alva; but they were +nobly avenged by William of Orange. At the head of a very steep and +narrow street stands a most imposing structure. It is the Cathedral +Church of St. Gudule. The foundation was laid in 1010. The front view is +very much like that of Notre Dame, at Paris. This church is occasionally +called St. Michael's in old writers, as it had a double consecration to +the archangel and Gudule. The interior of this cathedral is very +impressive, although the architecture is simple. The pillars supporting +the roof are massive, and must receive the admiration of all spectators. +There are brackets attached to them, on which stand finely-executed +figures of the Savior, the Virgin Mary, and the Apostles, executed by +the following renowned sculptors: Vandelyn, Quellyn, Tobias, and +Duquesnoy. The pulpit is regarded as the finest in Europe, and is the +most elaborate composition of sculpture in wood that is extant. It is +the work of the great Verbruggen, and was originally executed for a +Jesuit society at Louvain, in 1699. The art is exquisite, and far +superior to the taste which is exhibited. The pulpit represents the +expulsion of Adam and Eve from paradise by the angel. Death is seen in +pursuit of the guilty fugitives; and on the extreme summit is the Virgin +Mary, bruising the serpent's head with a cross. On the steps and +balusters are various beasts and birds; the owl, ape, and peacock are +conspicuous. We found preparations for a great church holiday, to be +observed the next day; and the Virgin Mary was gayly decked out in +embroidery, lace, and jewelry. + +A monument to Count Merode, in a chapel, is a most exquisite production, +and was executed by Geefs. Here Charles V., in 1616, held a chapter of +the Golden Fleece. The restoration of this beautiful church has been +carefully attended to lately, and the new windows of painted glass are +very fine; but some of the old windows, by Weyde, are grand indeed. + +In this church the famous sacramental wafers are placed away as relics +of inestimable value. Perhaps you recollect the story of the Jews who +purloined them, and profanely stuck the consecrated bread with knives; +when, lo, a miracle! blood came from the incision, and the unbelievers +were smitten down. Of course, they were taken, and tormented, and burnt. +This was at the close of the fourteenth century. The great celebration +of this Popish imposition of a miracle is kept up in July every year. + +All one side of this noble building is a set of mean, low, one and +two-story shanties, which deface the appearance of the venerable pile. + +While in the church, we saw vast numbers of boys and girls, who had come +to make their confession and prepare for their first communion, to take +place next day. We often saw in the streets of Paris and Brussels girls +dressed in white, with wreaths of flowers, and boys, with dresses that +looked as if they were bound to a wedding; these were young people going +to communion. The poor children in this church looked as funny on the +occasion, sitting and chatting, waiting for their turn to confess, as +the priest looked tired and indifferent. + +We spent much of our leisure time walking in the noble park and gardens. +O, when shall we have in America such care taken of our few green spots, +in our great cities, as is here displayed? No lady can be more chary of +the order of her drawing-room than are the authorities at Brussels of +these beautiful promenades. Then, too, here are avenues of trees that +make you in love with the city as you enter it. I do wish all our towns +would raise committees of public-spirited men, who should undertake, by +voluntary contributions, or town action, to plant the roadsides that +form the entrances to these places. I was delighted, some months ago, to +hear that a few gentlemen at Haverhill, in Massachusetts, had banded +together for this purpose. Charley, if you live to take an active share +in the business of life, try and do something for the place you live in +that shall appear after you have gone; make the spot of your residence +better, because you have once lived in it. We are too selfish; we do not +fulfil our duty to those who are to come after us; we do not, even in +the matters of this present state, live up to the great law of our +being--"No man liveth to himself." + +Leopold's Palace is exceedingly plain and unpretending for a royal +residence. It was originally composed of two wings, through which a +street ran its course; but they are now united by a central building, +with a handsome portico, having for its support six Corinthian pillars. +The edifice is about three hundred and ninety feet in length; and, while +the front is on the Park, the rear opens on an extensive garden. At the +opposite side of the Park is the Chamber of Representatives. In the +Park, and near to the Palace, is the prettiest glen and bit of miniature +wood I know of. + +We found our accomplished representative, the Hon. Mr. Bayard, kind and +attentive. He lives in a charming part of the city; and his position +must be a pleasant one, having good society in the place, and near to +Paris. + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 32. + + +BRUSSELS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +I like this city very much--it is so clean. The buildings in the upper +part of the town are new, and in pleasant contrast to the lower portion, +which looks so very old. I think, from walking about a great deal, that +there must be many English people here; for they carry their country in +their dress and manner. We spent a morning at the various shops, and +principally at the lace and print stores. We purchased some very +beautiful engravings, lithographs, and illustrated works, which will +remind us of our pleasant days in Brussels, and which I hope may amuse +our friends. The lacework executed here is uncommonly rich, and, you +know, is very famous; but, I am sorry to say, also very expensive. A +person may soon get rid of large amounts of money here. We made some +purchases for the ladies at home; but no doubt, if they had been with +us, the bills would have been heavier than they were. + +The way we manage for getting money while we are travelling is by a +circular letter from Baring & Brothers. On this we are introduced to +houses in the great cities through which our route lies, and the letter +states our credit at London; then from these houses we obtain what we +need, and have each house indorse the amount; so that, as we go from +place to place, our financial position in London still appears. In +Brussels we found the banker, or, at least, his agent,--for whether the +banker or his clerk we did not know,--a perfect specimen of vulgarity +and rudeness. He was the most uncivil fellow that we have yet seen in +Europe. His most pleasant words were grunts, and his motions and +attitudes were almost threats. He looked like a Jew, but he acted like a +wild Arab; and his manÅ“uvres would have been a godsend to the comic Dr. +Valentine, if he had witnessed their display. His gray hairs did not +command respect; and what made his rudeness so hard to bear, was the +fact that nothing occurred to call it out. We probably met him at an +unhappy moment. + +The Museum is in the old palace of the Spanish governors of the Low +Countries, and long before their day it was the ducal residence of the +Brabants. The building was begun in 1346, and completed in 1502. + +The pictures of Europe are one of my great objects of interest, and here +we begin to find them. We have left the London and Paris collections for +examination as we return. From the catalogue, we found there were about +six hundred pictures here, and some statuary. The chief attraction of +this gallery is found in the few early Flemish paintings which it +boasts. I think a Gerard Dow will long be remembered by me. It is an +interior, and the effect of the light in the room is admirable. Many of +the paintings are styled Gothic; that means they were painted previous +to the time of Van Eyck. An interior of the Antwerp Cathedral, by Neefs, +is very fine; and I was much pleased with some large pictures by +Philippe Champagne, some' of whose portraits I have seen in New York. +Here are four pictures by Paul Veronese. No. 285 is the Marriage of +Cana. I think I never saw a picture in which I was so impressed with the +magnificence of the coloring. The table is richly spread, and the light +appears on it, coming down the columns; the rich colors of the fruits +contrasting strongly with the white table and gay dress of one of the +figures. The management of light, by introducing various colors in the +dresses, is wonderful, and the blue sky produces the happiest effect. I +never before understood how much a picture depended on the arrangement +of color. The drapery of this composition struck me greatly; and +although I know little of great paintings, yet I do know what I like, +and this picture, as a whole, seems to me wonderfully fine. + +In 1695, when this town was bombarded by the French, fourteen churches +were destroyed, some of which contained the best pictures of Rubens, +Vandyke, and other great painters of that century. I observed here a +good portrait of Henrietta, queen of Charles I., who seems to have been +a favorite with painters. I have seen a score of her faces by Vandyke at +Windsor, Paris, and elsewhere. This was by Mignard. All make her very +beautiful. + +The Adoration of the Magi, by Van Eyck, the inventor of oil painting, is +curious; and a Descent from the Cross, by Hemling, who flourished about +1450, interested me. Amongst the pictures by unknown masters I saw some +good ones. I thought the portraits in this class very spirited. One of +Bloody Mary was quite a picture. + +In this building, too, the doctor found a treat in the great Burgundy +Library, where are nearly twenty thousand MSS., some of which are the +most richly-illuminated vellums that are known. Some of the miniatures +of the early fathers and saints are of exquisite beauty. This precious +collection has twice, I learn, been stolen by the French, as were also +the best pictures. The library consists of about two hundred thousand +volumes. I saw some glorious specimens of Russian malachite. + +You would, I am sure, Charley, hardly forgive me if I had had so little +of your love of the curious as to go away from Brussels without a look +at the world-renowned fountain--the _Manekin._ One day, when upon a +tramp, we inquired it out. The dirty dog is a little bronze figure, made +by the famous Duquesnoy in 1648. It stands at the corner of the Rue du +Chêne and the Rue de l'Etuve. He still maintains his ground; and there +seems no danger of his losing his occupation. + +The Botanical Garden lies on the side of the hill leading from the city +towards Antwerp, and is apparently kept in fine order. It is about six +hundred and fifty yards long, and I should think nearly two hundred +wide. + +To-morrow we are to spend at Waterloo; and George is well nigh +distracted. We have heard very little from him, since we reached +Brussels, but about Napoleon, Wellington, Ney, and Grouchy. The +last-named marshal finds no favor at his hands, as he regards him as a +traitor to the emperor at the critical moment. One thing is certain; he +knows more about the battle than most persons, and will feel quite at +home when he once makes out his stand-point. We all anticipate his +transports with interest. We are to start early; so good-night. + +Yours, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 33. + + +BRUSSELS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +I am thoroughly tired out with a day at Waterloo; and, though I should +be glad to retire at an early hour, yet, as to-morrow's mail takes all +letters for the next steamer, we are all hard at the duty and pleasure +of correspondence with our friends. I shall give you but a hurried +account of our visit to the great battle field of Europe. We were all up +early in the morning, and, after an excellent breakfast, we engaged a +carriage and pair of horses for the day. The distance is about twelve +miles. After riding about two miles, we found the road touched the +Forest of Soignies, so well known in consequence of Byron's description +of the march of the army from Brussels to Waterloo. On the way we met +several guides, who commended their services to our notice, backed up by +testimonials of former travellers. We selected Pirson, and he took his +place beside the driver, and we arrived in two hour at the village. +Passing by what is called a museum, we addressed ourselves at once to a +survey of the field. There are no signs of the past, excepting in +monuments and houses that are famous for their being occupied by the +hostile parties during the battle. We turned our attention first to the +Château of Hougomont, because, from our knowledge of the transactions of +the great day, we regarded it as the grand point of attraction, and the +central one for our observations. This farm is an old-looking affair, +with out-buildings--a small chapel, twelve or fifteen feet long, and the +garden and orchard, having a strong stone wall around them. This was the +strong point of the British army; and if Napoleon could have gained it, +he would have turned the flank of the enemy. To this he directed all his +power, and the marks of the conflict are yet very apparent. All day the +attack was made, upon the farm by thousands, under the command of Jerome +Bonaparte. The wall was pierced with loopholes, and through these the +English Coldstream Guards kept up a most destructive fire upon the +French troops. The exterior of the wall still shows what a terrific +onset was made. We went into the house, obtained some refreshment, +bought some relics, and, among other things, a neat brass crucifix, +which hung against the wall. We then, went to look at the farms La Belle +Alliance and La Haye Sainte--the famous mound where the dead were +interred, and which is surmounted by the Belgic lion. This is an immense +work, two hundred feet high; and from the summit we saw the entire +field. Of course, we all had our feelings excited at standing on a spot +where the two greatest soldiers of Europe measured swords, and had a +continent for spectators of the conflict. + +When the French army marched through Waterloo, on their way to Antwerp, +in 1831, they looked savagely at the Belgian monument, and one man fired +his musket at the lion, and the mark is still visible upon his chin. + +We were much gratified at the farm-house of Hougomont; and the hour we +spent in its orchard and gardens will long be remembered by us all. I +have read an account of the attack upon the house, which says, "The +Belgian yeoman's garden wall was the safeguard of Europe, whose +destinies hung upon the possession of this house." The garden wall is +covered on the inside with ivy; and here we secured several roots of the +plant, and, having bought a basket at the farm-house, we planted them in +earth taken from beside the grave of a British officer, who fell in the +orchard; his tombstone bears the name of J.L. Blackman. These plants +will give us trouble to carry; but Dr. Choules has determined upon +carrying them home for Mr. Hall, whose stone house needs ivy on the +walls, and he intends obtaining roots from various places of interest in +Europe, to serve as mementoes of other lands. + +The church is a small affair, but is full of the testimonies of love and +affection from fathers, mothers, brothers, sisters, wives, children, and +friends, to those who fell in the bloody conflict. + +We were annoyed by urchins, who beset our steps, eager to sell us +genuine relics of the field, which are likely to increase in number as +long as there is a demand for them. George, of course, was in his +element, and he did little but plant the different sites in his memory, +for the purpose of comparing notes, by and by, with Gleig, Headley, &c., +&c. + +I do not attempt to give you any thing like a description of the place, +or an account of the battle, as you have books which are devoted to +these points. + +It is a circumstance worthy of notice that, in 1705, the Duke of +Marlborough came very near fighting a battle with the French, on this +ground, but was prevented by the Dutch commissioners who were with him. + +We obtained some good engravings of the buildings that are famous for +their connection with the battle, but they are nothing like as fine as +the folio illustrated volume of colored engravings which we have so +often looked over with interest. I tried to get a copy in London at any +price, and would have given any thing in reason; but the work is out of +print and the market, and can only be gotten at the sale of a collector. + +On returning to Brussels, and enjoying our dinner at a late hour, we +passed the evening in the Arcades, where we saw some beautiful goods +exposed for sale, and again examined some lacework. You will smile at +the idea of pocket handkerchiefs which cost from one hundred to one +thousand dollars each. The embroidery of letters upon lacework is +costly; and we saw single letters which had required a week's work. + +We like this city, and, if time allowed us, should certainly pass a week +here. I should not forget to say that we saw the king in the Park, near +to his palace. He looks like a man of fifty-five, and, I thought, had a +melancholy air. + +Yours, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 34. + + +ANTWERP. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + + +In company still with our friends from Bristol on a wedding tour, we +took the rail for Antwerp. The arrangements of the railroad in Belgium +seem to me as perfect as they can be made. All is order, civility, and +comfort. On starting for this place, we had the curiosity to inquire as +to the number of passengers, and found thirteen first class, seventy-one +second class, and one hundred and three third class. The road we took +lay through a level country, but cultivated to a great degree; and the +produce was chiefly clover, beans, potatoes, grain, and turnips. On +leaving Brussels, we noticed the fine botanical gardens on our right, +and the Allée Verte, a noble avenue of trees which reaches to Laeken, a +pretty village, dating as far back as the seventh century, and +containing a fine palace, where Leopold frequently resides. Napoleon +once occupied this palace, and here it is said that he planned his +Russian campaign. The park is spacious, and the village has a celebrated +cemetery; and here Madame Malibran reposes. The first stopping-place is +at about six miles from Brussels, at Vilvorde--a very ancient town, +having a population of not quite three thousand. It is known in history +as Filfurdum, and was a place of some consequence in 760. It was here +that Tindal, who was the first translator of the New Testament into +English, suffered martyrdom, in 1536, being burnt as a heretic. The +Testament was a 12mo. edition. It was published in 1526, and probably +was printed at Antwerp, where he then resided. Fifteen hundred copies +were printed, and they were mostly bought up by Bishop Tonstall, and +destroyed. The only copy known to exist is in the library of the Baptist +College at Bristol. This copy belonged to Lord Oxford, and he valued the +acquisition so highly that he settled twenty pounds a year upon the +person who obtained it for him. Both Tindal's assistants in this great +work--Fryth and Roye--suffered martyrdom before his death. I am sorry to +find, by history, that Sir Thomas More employed one Phillips to go over +to Antwerp and decoy Tindal into the hands of the emperor. The last +words of the martyr were, "Lord! open the King of England's eyes." Sir +Thomas More was a bitter persecutor, and he was "recompensed in his own +ways." Not far from Vilvorde are the remains of the chateau of Rubens; +and in the same vicinity is the house where Teniers is said to have +lived. Mechlin, or Malines, is a fine-looking town, with twenty-five +thousand inhabitants, and it is spelt by early writers ways without +number. The railroad just touches on its skirts, and, of course, we +could only look at it. Its cathedral church loomed up; and we longed to +see its interior, where Vandyke's greatest picture--the Crucifixion--is +found in the altar. The tower shows well at a distance. The other +churches have some pictures of great merit, by Rubens. After passing +Mechlin, we saw at our right a large town, lying, perhaps, two miles +off, and then a still smaller one to the left, and a fine old castle, +which looked in good preservation. The road led us through some fine +country residences; and, just before entering Antwerp, we passed +Berchem, a sweet little village. And I would not omit to say that the +small place called Vieux Dieu, before we came to Berchem, is famous for +being one of the last places where heathenism retained its hold in this +port of Europe, and here was formerly an idol. + +Antwerp--or, as the French write it, Anvers--is a noble city on the +River Scheldt, and is about twenty-seven miles from Brussels. The +population is rather more than eighty thousand. The city is laid out in +the shape of a bow, and the river forms the string. The river here is +one hundred and ninety yards wide. The tide rises about fifteen feet. +This place is of very ancient origin, and its legends are mixed up with +the fabulous. Early in the sixteenth century it was an important town. +It was fortified, and became one of the chief places of trade for the +north of Europe. In 1520, the population was over two hundred thousand. +Five hundred vessels daily came into and left the port, and two thousand +others were always lying in the river and basins of the port. The death +blow to this place was the treaty of Munster, which stipulated that +every vessel entering the Scheldt should discharge her cargo in Holland, +so that it had to be conveyed to Antwerp by land. The abolition of the +Spanish power was severely felt at Antwerp. You know, I suppose, that +this is regarded as one of the strongest fortifications in Europe, and +has been the scene of repeated sieges. The last and most celebrated one +was in 1832, when it was captured by the French, after a brave defence +of two months. + +You cannot easily fancy what a charming old city this is; but I shall +try to give you some account of it and our employments here. We put up +at the Hotel St. Antoine, in the Place Verte, nearly opposite the +cathedral, and it certainly is one of the best houses we have seen any +where. The court yard is spacious, and has fine orange-trees around it. +Our rooms are very elegant, and on the first floor. The coffee-room is +admirably attended, and the _table d'hôte_ is the best we have yet set +down to. A large part of our anticipated pleasure arose from the fact +that here are the great works of Rubens; and in the city of Rubens, +Vandyke, Teniers, Jordaens, and Quentin Matsys, we felt that we could +not be disappointed. In the Place Verte we find a colossal statue of +Rubens by Geefs; and passing on a few steps, at the corner we come to +the Cathedral of Notre Dame, which is so celebrated all over Europe as +one of the grandest specimens of the Gothic order of architecture. There +is much dispute as to the exact date of this church, but the evidence is +in favor of 1422, and it is known to have been finished in 1518. This +church is four hundred and sixty-six feet high, five hundred feet long, +and two hundred and fifty wide. The nave is thought to be the most +superb in Europe; and the side naves are double, forming two hundred and +thirty arches, supported by one hundred and twenty-five magnificent +pillars, and some of these are twenty-seven feet in circumference. Here +Philip II., in 1555, held a chapter of the Golden Fleece, at which +nineteen knights and nine sovereign princes were present. In 1559, Paul +IV. made this church a cathedral; but, in 1812, Pius VII. issued a bull +by which it was made dependent on the diocese of Malines. The effect of +the evening sun upon the painted windows is the production of a glory +which no pen can describe. Charles V. was once an actor here, for he +stood godfather at the baptism of the great bell. The pulpit is carved +work, and done by Verbruggen. It represents the four quarters of the +world, and, though elaborate, is not as beautiful as the one in St. +Gudule, at Brussels. The glory of the church is the "breathing scroll" +of Rubens, so often seen upon the walls of its solemn aisles. Here is +Rubens's great picture,--the Descent from the Cross. To this picture +pilgrimages have been made by all the lovers of art from other lands, +and all concede the grandeur of idea and the simplicity of the style. +There is quite a story about this picture, in which Rubens and the +crossbow-men of Antwerp both figure, but which I have no time to tell +you at present. Nearly opposite is the Elevation of the Cross. The +Savior's face and figure are not to be forgotten by any one who +carefully gazes on this canvas. Both these pictures were carried off by +the French, and also the Assumption of the Virgin, which is the high +altar-piece, and were restored by the allied sovereigns in 1815. This +last-named picture is said to have been executed in sixteen days, and +his pay was one hundred florins a day. I like it exceedingly; and _the_ +figure of the picture is more spiritual than any other I have seen of +the Virgin. Its date is 1642. I advise you to read Sir Joshua Reynolds's +Lectures, where you will find a critical description of these immortal +pictures. + +The steeple or tower is regarded as unrivalled, and is one of the +highest in the world. It is four hundred and sixty-six feet high; and +from the top we could see Brussels, Ghent, Malines, Louvain, and +Flushing, and the course of the Scheldt lies beautifully marked out. I +hardly dare tell you how many bells there are. Our valet said +ninety-nine; one local book of facts says eighty-eight; but I suppose +there are eighty or ninety; and every fifteen minutes they do chime the +sweetest music: Charles V. wished the exquisite tower could be kept from +harm in a glass case. The tracery of this tower is like delicate +lacework, and no one can imagine half its beauty. After we came down, we +examined, at the base, the epitaph of Quentin Matsys, once a +black-smith, and then, under the force of the tender passion, he became +a painter. The iron work over the pump and well, outside the church, is +his handiwork. + +All round the cathedral are the finest old gabled houses I ever saw, +Charley. I never tire in looking at them. They were the great houses of +the time when the Duke of Alva made Antwerp the scene of his cruel +despotism, and when the Inquisition carried death and misery into men's +families. The oppressions of the Spaniards in this city sent many of the +best manufacturers from the Low Countries to England; and Queen +Elizabeth received them gladly. + +Yours, &c., + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 35. + + +ANTWERP. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +I believe the lads have told you what they have seen in Belgium; and as +they are just now busily employed, I shall endeavor to tell you our +doings and enjoyments for the last day in this noble old city. We have +been to see St. James's Church, where the great attraction is the tomb +of Rubens. The altar is exquisitely fine, and was the work of Duquesnoy. +Rubens brought it from Italy. Over the tomb is the famous Holy Family, +in which Rubens has introduced himself as St. George, his father as +Jerome, his wives as Martha and Magdalene, his grandfather as old Time, +and his son as the Angel. This wonderful creation of art was carried off +by Napoleon to the Louvre, but was restored to the church in 1815. From +hence we repaired to St. Paul's Church. It was built in 1679. It has a +noble appearance, and retains its cloisters. In this building we noticed +the Flagellation, by Rubens; Jesus bearing the Cross, by Vandyke; the +Crucifixion and Resurrection, by Jordaens; and the Adoration of the +Shepherds, by Rubens. As we left the church, we visited the Calvary, +which is at the entrance, or, rather, off from it, at the right. It is +meant to represent the place of Christ's death. There are several +statues of prophets and apostles, and a sort of grotto. At the end is +Mount Calvary, and the summit is the scene of the Savior's crucifixion. +Beneath is the tomb, the body, and the stone rolled away; and at the +left are bars and flames, and poor creatures in purgatorial fires. A +more wretched-looking burlesque was never placed in the vicinage of art +and the productions of genius. Popery employs such trickery unblushingly +in Papal countries, but withholds their exhibition from the common sense +of England and America, waiting till our education shall fit us for the +simple, unalloyed system of delusion. + +We find the number of priests in Belgium much greater than in France. We +see them in the cars, at the stations, and in every street. At one +station, on our way to Antwerp, we saw a most strangely-dressed man. He +wore a cloak, and the cape formed a sort of hat. His head was shaved, +and his feet were bare. We learnt that he was a monk of La Trappe. He +was as noble a looking man as I have seen in Europe. + +We devoted the morning to the Museum, which is so famous for containing +the richest productions of Rubens, Vandyke, Jordaens, and a host of +other great Flemish artists. As we entered, we saw, with interest, the +chair of Rubens, which he used in his studio. It bears his name, and the +date of 1638. It is in a glass case. Rubens has sixteen pictures here, +of high character, and Vandyke several. We were all delighted with No. +215--a Dead Christ on a stone table, and the Virgin mourning at his +side. No. 212 is a wonderful composition--Christ crucified between the +Thieves. The look of the dying penitent at his Savior is not to be +forgotten. The Magdalene of this picture is a creation of beauty indeed. +I have purchased a fine engraving of this picture, and several others by +Rubens, and I hope, by looking at them long, to retain the impression I +had made on my mind as I gazed upon the originals. No. 221--the +Trinity--is a profane and ungracious representation of a Dead Christ in +the arms of a stern old man, who is intended for the Father. This +picture is wonderfully fine, as regards the foreshortening of the dead +body; and I never saw such an exhibition in this respect. No. 218--- +Christ showing his Wounds to Thomas--is fine; but the picture has +suffered from damp. + +Quentin Matsys has several of his productions here, and we looked with +interest at a fine Sir Thomas More, by Holbein; the Flight into Egypt, +by Memling; Mater Dolorosa, by Albert Durer; and many interiors, by +Flemish artists. I was greatly pleased with No. 382--the Death of +Rubens, by Van Brée, who died in 1839. This is large, and I think a most +effective picture. The two sons, the priest, the wife fainting, and the +two scribes, are admirably disposed; and the open window, through which +the cathedral spire is seen, seems to me exceedingly clever; but I fancy +I admired it more than artists have done. On leaving this noble +collection, we stopped at St. Andrew's Church to see a portrait of Mary, +Queen of Scots, over a monument to the two Ladies Curl, one of whom +waited on her at her execution at Fotheringay Castle. After dinner we +sallied out to see the Exchange, or Bourse, and from which the first +London one was copied. Of course, this gave it an interest to us, as we +could fancy we saw the royal building in which Queen Bess made such a +display, and of which Gresham had so much reason to be proud. It is a +piazza of iron arches and granite pillars, surrounding a square two +hundred feet long by one hundred and sixty wide. It was built in 1531. + +On returning home, we accidentally met with Mr. Vesey, the American +consul. He invited us to his drawing-room, and we had a very pleasant +half hour. But when he found we were to leave next day, he insisted on +taking us to the outskirts and showing us the citadel and +fortifications. In a few minutes he had us in a carriage, and became our +kind and efficient guide till the loss of daylight rendered it useless +to look around. I think we shall never forget the very great attention +and friendship which we all met with from this gentleman; and I was +gratified to hear him say that here, in Europe, nothing seemed to +interest him in relation to mere party strife at home; while the honor +and union of the country seemed to him all and every thing. Mr. Vesey +has a good library and some fine paintings. He is a man of taste, and +marked by energy of character; and is just such a representative of his +country as she needs at such points as Antwerp and other large cities. + +Yours truly, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 36. + + +HAGUE. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +I assure you we felt sorry to leave Antwerp; it is such a thoroughly +fine old place, has so much of old Spanish history still bound up with +its present aspect, and is so decidedly foreign in its appearance, +language, &c. I have only time left to say a word about the docks of +Antwerp, which were a favorite project of Napoleon Bonaparte. They were +constructed at an enormous outlay; and the emperor expected to make this +place the great rival of London. At the peace of 1814, the dock yards +were demolished; but the great basins still exist, and are used for +purposes of commerce. They are useful in winter, to preserve vessels +from the ice which floats in the Scheldt. + +It was a lovely morning when, having parted with our English friends, +who proceeded to Bruges, we entered on board an iron steamer for a +passage of about eight hours to Rotterdam. The boat was neat and clean, +though small, and the cabin was adorned with baskets and pots of flowers +of various kinds. The view of the city and its fortifications was fine, +as the boat receded from the shore. On our way we passed Dort, one of +the finest towns of Holland, and from appearances, I think, one of much +trade. Its population is twenty thousand. Here, in 1618, was held the +famous Synod of Dort, the great labor of which was to settle the claims +of the rival systems of Calvin and Arminius. At this synod, Bishop Hall +was a delegate from the English church; and he, good man, never dreamed +of denying the validity of the ordination of his brethren in that +council. We felt interested, as we sailed along this town, in +remembering that here, in 1421, seventy-two villages and more than one +hundred thousand persons were drowned by the incursion of water from the +dike. The river stretches far away, and looks much like a lake. + +If any one looks at the face of the country, he will at once understand +why these regions have been termed the Low Countries. We passed, as you +may see on the map, Gravendeel, Willeinstadt, and the far-famed +fortress of Bergen op Zoom, which is one of the strongest places in +Holland. You know that Antwerp stood a long siege in 1831, when it +suffered severely; and, as we passed Fort St. Laurent, we were pointed +out the spot where a most gallant occurrence happened at that time. A +gun boat, belonging to Holland, got on shore, and the Belgians hastened +to capture her, when her captain, a young man named Van Speyk, rushed +into the magazine, put his cigar upon an open keg of powder, and, in the +explosion, perished, with twenty-eight of his crew out of thirty-one. He +was an orphan, who had been educated at Amsterdam. He has a fine +monument next to Admiral De Ruyter's, and a fine ship of the Dutch navy +bears his name. On board our boat we found two young gentlemen, of about +fifteen or sixteen, belonging to Rotterdam, who were going home for +vacation.. They are pupils at a boarding school in Brussels. They spoke +English very well, and gave us a great deal of pleasing information. The +dinner on the boat was very excellent. On reaching Rotterdam, we merely +rode through it to take the cars for the Hague. It is a fine-looking +town, has seventy-five thousand inhabitants, and some noble East +Indiamen were lying at the wharves. Many of the houses were like those +at Antwerp, and told a Spanish origin. I here noticed looking-glasses +at the windows, so that any one in the parlor can see the reflection up +and down the streets. I was glad to be able to see the bronze statue of +Erasmus, who was born here in 1467. We were delayed by the absence of +the authorities to sign our passports, but were in time to reach the +ears, and then started for the Hague, which is thirteen miles from +Rotterdam; and we were forty minutes on the way. The road is excellent. +We passed through Delft, and here we could not fail to admire the +gardens and country-houses. It was dark as we entered the town; and we +took up our quarters at the Doelen, which is a name indicating that +archers have resorted thither. Whoever goes to this house will be sure +to do well. We obtained capital rooms. Early next morning we called on +Mr. George Folsom, our _chargé d'affaires_. This gentleman is an old +friend of mine; and he gave us a most cordial welcome, taking entire +possession of our party for the day. Mr. Folsom resides in very handsome +style upon the Voorhout, the best street of the city, and which, like +every other part of the place, is adorned with noble trees. It seems +strange to call this place a city, it is so thoroughly rural in its +appearance. It hardly shows like a town of sixty-five thousand people on +account of being concealed in shrubbery, cut up by canals, and +overshadowed with forest-trees. + +Very early in the day we were kindly provided with carriages, and taken +to Scheveningen, a village about three miles off. Our road lay through a +fine avenue of trees. This is a great fishing-place, and a great +watering-place. It has a large hotel, which we went to for lunch. It is +the great rendezvous of the fashionable part of society in Germany +during the heat of summer. We could not help drawing a contrast between +Scheveningen and Newport, and not much to the advantage of the Dutch +beach. This spot has some celebrity, as the port whence Charles II. +embarked for England at his restoration. On our way back we saw the +residence of the queen dowager, sister to the Emperor of Russia, and of +whom Mr. Folsom speaks highly, as a very excellent and sensible lady. +Mrs. Folsom and the ladies of our party had visited the queen the day +before. The house looked quite snug, and very unpretending. On +returning, we at once repaired to the Museum, which is supposed to be, +in many respects, the finest in Europe. Here, too, is the famous picture +gallery, in which are the best productions of the Flemish and Dutch +schools. You are aware that Holland has had extensive trade with China +and Japan, through her colonies; hence the richness of this museum, +which, so far as Japan is concerned, is unrivalled. I have a catalogue +of this wonderful collection, and to that I must refer you; for, as to +description of what I saw, it would be impossible to tell you a +hundredth part. The Oriental curiosities are very rich and fine. A plan +of Jeddo, the capital of Japan, is very curious--made by natives. The +historical treasures are rich and numerous. Here we saw the armor of De +Ruyter, and that of Van Tromp, well scored with bullets; the sword of +Van Speyk; a part of Czar Peter's bed; the dress of William of Orange +when he was murdered at Delft; the pistol and bullets by which he fell, +&c., &c. We all expected much pleasure from the gallery of paintings, +and I believe we experienced no disappointment; and how could we, with +such treasures of art and genius? Here we noticed with most interest +Rembrandt's Surgeon and Pupils dissecting a dead Body. This is No. 127. +The body is admirable, and the legs are thrown into shadow. The +portraits are lifelike. The portraits of Rembrandt's wives are fine +specimens of coloring. No. 123 is the world-renowned Bull, by Paul +Potter. The glory of this work is its minute adherence to nature. The +leaves and plants, and every appearance of vegetation, impresses the +spectator with the idea of reality. This was carried off to the Louvre, +although the Dutch offered twenty thousand pounds sterling to redeem it. +I liked the pictures of De Ruyter and Van Tromp; but the treat of all to +me was the show of small Dutch pictures, by Gerard Dow, thirty-five in +number; a Battle Field and Hay Cart, by Wouvermans, and many others from +his studio; Flight into Egypt, by Vanderwerp; Fruits and Flowers, by +Breughels; Interiors of Cottages, by A.V. Ostades; a Kitchen, by +Teniers; and a very large Hunting-piece by Snyders, whom I greatly +admire. As to portraits, they are in any number, and some are very fine. +One of Laurence Coster, by Durer, is curious. + +We went to see the late King's Palace, and here we found only the relics +of the splendid gallery which was once to be seen. An auction had +recently disposed of more than half the paintings. The late monarch was +a man of taste, but had sadly involved himself in its gratification. +Many of the paintings here are exceedingly fine, and will be disposed of +in a public sale next October. After leaving this palace, we went with +Mr. Folsom to see the Brimenhoff. This is the place where the Dutch +parliament meets. We went into the second chamber and heard the debates, +which were not very edifying. The appearance of the members was very +much like that of a New England assembly of legislators. + +The fine Gothic Hall here is said to be the oldest building in the city. +It was on a scaffolding in front of it that Barneveldt, the grand +pensionary of Holland, was beheaded, in 1618, at the age of seventy-two. +We also saw the gateway of the tower in which Cornelius De Witt was +confined, in 1672, on the ridiculous charge of conspiracy against the +Prince of Orange. The populace feared his acquittal, and they by a +manÅ“uvre induced his brother John De Witt, the grand pensionary, to +visit him in prison. They then broke in, dragged them forth, and tore +them to pieces under the gateway. We went to look at De Witt's +residence, which is plain and unpretending. + +I do wish you could have been with us in our ride through the Bosch, a +fine park of forest-trees near to the town. The forest never looked more +pleasant to me than here. May is a sweet month, and especially when, +with all her verdant beauty, she is just about to rush into the arms of +June. We all talked of you in the charming drive, and Mr. Folsom made +kind inquiries after you. On reaching home, we went with our kind guide +to see the house which was occupied by John Adams when he was at this +court negotiating a treaty with Holland in aid of our independence. + +We are to spend to-morrow and next day at Harlem, on our way to +Amsterdam; and the boys will tell you what we see there. + +Affectionately yours, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 37. + + +AMSTERDAM. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +In order that we might enjoy an opportunity to hear the great organ at +Harlem to advantage, Mr. Folsom advised us to spend a Sabbath day there, +which we did, in company with his family. We took the rail to Leyden, +ten miles. Here we saw the Dunes, or Sand Hills, which guard the Dutch +coast, and which are from one to four miles in width, and are from +thirty to fifty feet high. These immense piles would soon be scattered +by the strong winds if they were not regularly sown with reed grass, the +roots of which often spread from twenty to thirty feet, binding the +banks, and the decayed vegetation furnishing good soil for potatoes. The +existence of Holland and its population is only insured by perpetual +strife maintained against the sea and winds of heaven. We could not look +at Leyden and forget that the Pilgrim Fathers of New England were once +exiles at this place. They called it a "goodly and pleasant city," and +here they spent twelve years; and we looked at the scenery with interest +as we thought of their wanderings, and how much preparation was expended +in establishing the glorious foundations of our own New England. The +city has about forty thousand inhabitants. Its University is still +famous, and the hall of the institution is rich in portraits of the +great and good. The Museum of Natural History is very large, and is +quite curious in Oriental and Egyptian relics. In Japanese curiosities, +the Dutch museums are far more affluent than any others of Europe, as +they maintain almost exclusive traffic with Japan. + +The history of Leyden is very interesting. In 1573-4, this town suffered +an awful siege from the Spaniards for four months, and lost more than +five thousand inhabitants by war and famine. At last the elements +conspired in their favor, and an incursion of the sea destroyed the +Spaniards and brought succor to the Dutch. Rembrandt the painter was +born at Leyden, in a wind mill. By the way, there are literally +thousands of wind mills in this country, and some of them are very +pretty objects. The sails of these mills are immensely large, and I +think I saw some that were quite one hundred feet long. Many of the best +men of England have studied at Leyden; and if you read the lives of +Evelyn and Goldsmith, you will find they were much attached to this +place. Boerhaave, the great physician, was a professor here, and go were +Arminius and his rival Gomarus. Gerard Dow or Douw, Jan Steen, and +Vandervelde, the artists, were born here. Near Leyden the Rhine enters +the sea, by the aid of a canal and sluice gates; and here are great salt +works, carried on by evaporation. From Leyden we took the rail to +Harlem, eighteen miles; and we found the road very good, and the +first-class cars perfectly luxurious. We noticed on our right hand the +Warmond Catholic Seminary for Popish priests, and saw the young men in +large numbers, walking about. The road runs through a sandy tract of +country, and much of it is made land. Approaching Harlem, we found the +cottages and country-houses very numerous and exceedingly pretty; and we +were pointed to the castle of the unfortunate Jacqueline, whose history, +you know, has been so charmingly written by our friend Mr. T.C. Grattan. +We made our home at the Golden Lion, and found the place comfortable and +very thoroughly Dutch. The landlady is a brisk, bustling body, and +speaks English tolerably well. Harlem has about twenty-fire thousand +inhabitants. On Sunday morning we went to the Church of St. Bavon. We +found a large congregation, and they sung most heartily. The dominie had +a cocked hat hanging up behind him in the pulpit; and he was, beyond +doubt, a very eloquent man. The great organ, built in 1738, was long +deemed _the_ organ of Europe, but is now supposed to be excelled at +Friburg. We heard it during service several times, and in a voluntary. +It unquestionably is an instrument of great sweetness as well as power. +It has five thousand pipes. The church is lofty, and looks plain enough +after what we have seen in Antwerp. Of course, we went to see the +statue of Coster, who is said to have been the inventor of printing in +1420-28, twelve years before Guttemberg made his experiments. The Dutch +are strong advocates for their inventor; but I think evidence in favor +of metal type lies with the man of Mayence. + +You may be sure that, when we were so fortunate as to be here early in +June, we did not fail to go into the nurseries and gardens, and see the +hyacinths, tulips, narcissuses, anemones, ranunculuses, &c. We went to +the extensive grounds of Mr. Krelage, the first florist of Holland, No. +146 Kleine Houtweg; and here we were greatly delighted. The tulips were +exceedingly fine, and under cover they receive as much attention as if +they were babies. The hyacinths surpassed in beauty and variety any +thing we are accustomed to. I noticed a double blue, called Gloria +Mundi; Van Speyk, L'Importante, same color; Goethe, double yellow; +L'Eclair, crimson; and Emicus, white, which were particularly beautiful. +But we were all, perhaps, most pleased with the extensive beds of +anemones and ranunculuses, which rarely do well in our hot climate, and +here flourish in a humid atmosphere. Certainly they are the prettiest +flowers I ever saw; but they lack perfume. Here we saw them by +thousands. The exquisite order and condition of these large gardens +pleased us much. The young gentleman who kindly devoted three hours to +us spoke English well, and was very courteous and attentive. I have +brought away a catalogue of the flowers, with the prices. The soil of +Harlem is every where a deep sand, and every thing appears to flourish. + +The vicinage of this place is very pleasant; and we rode for two hours +through a noble wood, fringed with sweet villas, and made a visit to a +palace built by the great banker, Hope, of Amsterdam, and which was the +residence of King Louis Bonaparte. It is now a picture gallery, and +contains some good historical pictures, and many fine small ones, of the +best artists of Holland. I think the boys forgot to tell you that, at +the Hague, we found the annual exhibition of paintings by the living +artists of Holland, just opened, and the treat was very great. It is +quite clear that the art is not lost here, and that rare excellence is +still to be found among the Dutch painters. We were all delighted with a +picture of Charles IX. of France, and his surgeon, Ambrose Paré. The +time is just before the Bartholomew massacre; and Catharine is in the +room, plotting with her wretched son. Some of the portraits were +remarkable productions, and evince a power rarely seen in this +department. Some of the interiors of houses and churches were quite in +the style of Ostade, Neefs, and Gerard Dow. A picture of the Virgin, +and Jesus and John, by Schwartze, of Amsterdam, received general praise. +Of this artist I shall have more to say. + +The great Lake of Harlem, which is thirty miles in circumference, is to +be drained; and for several years operations have been in progress to +this end. The immense works employed for this purpose are worthy of +notice. + +After leaving Harlem, and taking leave of our kind friend the minister +at the Hague, with his amiable family, we again entered the cars, and, +after riding twelve miles, reached Amsterdam. The chief feature on the +way was the everlasting wind mill, employed here to grind wheat, &c. We +went to the Hotel Doelen, and found it all that Mr. Folsom had said. +This is a great city, of two hundred and twenty-five thousand +inhabitants. The canals are immense affairs, and the ships and vessels +of all sorts give it a very active appearance. All round the city is a +wide fosse; and there are four great canals inside, with many minor +cuts. Some of these canals are more than one hundred and twenty-five +feet wide, and are edged with very fine houses; and the intercourse of +the city is kept up by some two hundred and fifty bridges. The city is +about eight miles round. Every one seems actively employed. + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 38. + + +AMSTERDAM. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +The next morning after reaching this fine, but queer city, we called on +the American consul, and he gave us a very friendly reception. He is +quite a young man, but seems to be full of energy. At his house we met a +Mr. J. G. Schwartze, a native of Philadelphia, but who came to Holland +very young, and has made this city his residence. He is highly +distinguished as an artist; and we saw a fine production of his at the +exhibition at the Hague. Mr. Schwartze is a charming companion--full of +enthusiasm; and when he found that I was fond of pictures, he at once +volunteered to be our guide to the galleries here; and in all our +movements here our kind friend has been with us. The most imposing +building here is the Stadhuis, or Palace. It was finished in 1655, and +used to be the seat of the town councils. Louis Bonaparte used it as his +residence; and the king occupies it when he comes here. The marble hall +is esteemed one of the noblest rooms in Europe, and is one hundred and +twenty feet long, fifty-seven wide, and nearly one hundred feet high. +From the top of this building you get a capital view of the town, cut up +into artificial islands by the intersection of canals, &c. In this +building is much fine statuary, and a few historical paintings. + +The churches are large, but look barn-like. The organ of the old church +is very rich in its decorations; and here, as at Harlem, men sit in +church with their hats on, if they choose. The clergy wear a short, +black cloak, and deep white ruffs on the neck. The Jews are quite +numerous, and have several synagogues. They live mostly in one part of +the city. I do not think we shall any of us forget our visit to the +picture gallery at Amsterdam. Our attention was directed by Mr. S. to +the best paintings, and the particular merits of the artists were kindly +explained to us. The sight of a great picture is an event; and I think +that the day on which I first saw Rembrandt's Night Watch will long be +regarded by me with pleasurable feelings. It is a company of archers, +who are going out with their captain. The lights and shades are +wonderfully introduced. The City Guards of Amsterdam, by Vanderhelst, is +a large picture, with twenty-five portraits, and is esteemed as the +finest portrait picture in the world. But my favorite here is a small +picture called the Night School, by Gerard Dow. I would cheerfully go a +hundred miles on foot to see such a picture. The management of the +lights upon the interior and figures is beyond any thing I have +imagined. His Hermit and Crucifix is another gem. The picture of +Officers plundered by Peasants, by Wouvermans, and several landscapes of +his, are still in my mind's eye; and several pictures by the two +Ostades, Teniers, and Both are quite sufficient to make me understand +how it is that some men have found such fascination in collecting a +gallery. The best specimens of Jan Steen are in this city, and his Fête +of St. Nicholas would take wonderfully well with our good old +Knickerbockers at home. A Landscape, with cattle and figures, by Albert +Cuyp, is strikingly beautiful; and how I wish you could see a Fat Boy, +the son of a burgomaster, by Bartholomew Helst, dated 1648. Vandyke, +whose portraits have never been equalled, has some of his best in this +museum; and his Burgomaster of Antwerp, Vander Brocht, is as bold a +picture as you could wish to gaze at. + +Hondekoeter's flowers and fruits, and Snyder's game pieces, are among +the best of their kind in the world. Some of the finest things I have +seen in Holland, in the way of painting, are the little gems descriptive +of life as it lay about the artist--interiors of domestic abodes, and +out-door scenes at the roadside. These, the patient, plodding Dutchmen +have worked up most elaborately. One or two of Nicholas Maes's pictures +are wonderful. I saw one in a private collection, and it was a glorious +thing, though only a Kitchen, with two or three figures. O, how poor are +the things we often hear spoken of as fine pictures! The eye, it seems +to me, obtains its education rapidly in such a gallery as this. I am +sure I shall look at works of art in future with new feelings. + +There was a most beautiful Jew boy, about eleven years old, that used to +stand at our hotel door to sell matches, who regularly beset us with his +wares. His face was as striking as any fancy picture you can meet with, +and his beauty and impudence made him a pretty successful merchant. + +Mr. Schwartze took us to a noble mansion belonging to a merchant prince, +to see his great picture of Columbus before the Council explaining his +theory. This is a first-class execution. The coloring is very fine, and +the drawing good; and we all felt pride in seeing such a picture from +the easel of our countryman. I wish we had some good painting of his in +America. His portraits are excellent, and one of his wife has earned him +his high reputation in Holland. Through the kindness of this gentleman +we were introduced to the Artists' Club, and spent our evenings there in +very pleasant society. The artists belonging to it are probably about +fifty, and the other gentlemen who mainly support it are about two +hundred. I was much surprised to find nearly every gentleman we were +introduced to speaking excellent English. We met here a very gentlemanly +and accomplished lawyer, Mr. Van Lennep, whose father is a man of great +wealth. His attentions were very friendly. While here, James was quite +poorly with some slight attack of fever; and both our friends and the +consul were unremitting in their services. + +The water is very poor; rain water is valuable indeed. The best drinking +water is brought from Utrecht in stone demijohns. The bad water is often +used, however, flavored with Schiedam. We saw several of the +floating-houses, in which whole families reside, and carry articles from +place to place. The herring fishery, in its season, is a great matter in +the commerce of Amsterdam. Every thing here impresses the stranger with +the idea of activity, wealth, and great comfort; and I fancy that a +person would very soon become attached to the city as a place of +residence. To-morrow, if James is better, we resume our journey, and +start for Cologne. + +Yours affectionately, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 39. + + +COLOGNE. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We are strangely favored with weather; every day is fine; and we begin +to think that the climate has been abused, for we have had an +uninterrupted spell of bright, sunny weather. We started, after +breakfast, for our journey to Cologne, and took the oars for Utrecht, +which is twenty-three miles from Amsterdam. Our road was not one of +much interest, beyond the pretty gardens of the suburban residences. +Breukelen and Maarsen we thought pleasant little places. Utrecht is a +large town, and has, I think, nearly sixty thousand inhabitants; and of +these, one half are Catholics. It is rather on an ascent, and so is +unlike any other place we have seen in Holland. The place is famous for +the treaty of 1713. Here is a university, and some very fine private +residences; and the fortifications have been laid out in fine walks. The +Mall, or public walk, is a noble avenue of trees,--limes, I think,--and +they are in six or eight rows. In this place is a cathedral, which we +only saw. From its tower is the best view of the country; and it is said +you can see more than twenty towns from it. + +From Utrecht we continued, by railroad, to Arnheim, a distance of +thirty-three miles; and we saw more forest-trees than we had before +noticed. In the cars were several Catholic priests, who smoked +incessantly. Arnheim is on the banks of the Rhine, and is a pretty +little place, of about sixteen thousand inhabitants. We were, of course, +reminded by Dr. C. that here Sir Philip Sidney died, in 1586, of his +wound received in the battle of Zutphen. The entire vicinity seemed to +us a delightful spot, and we have seen no place where the houses appear +so English and American. The scenery is very attractive; and we would +have liked to stay over a day, but the steamer for Ruhrort was ready to +start, and we had only time to get our tickets and go on board. We found +a neat, comfortable boat, and met pleasant society. The Rhine here is +bounded by flat shores, and has no points of interest, and affords no +promise of what it is so soon to be. We entered Prussia at Lobith, and +had a very thorough examination of our trunks by officers who came on +board. At Wesel--a town, I think, of some twelve thousand inhabitants, +and having a very strong fortress--we stopped half an hour, and a crowd +came round the boat. Rapin, who wrote the History of England, lived here +while engaged in the task. How singular it is that all the histories of +England, of any note, have been written by men not born in England! They +have been French, Scotch, Irish, &c. We reached Ruhrort in the +afternoon, and left the boat. This is the great central depot where the +coal of the Ruhr is deposited. Here we crossed in a ferry boat, rode a +mile or two in an omnibus, and then took the cars for Cologne, after +waiting some hour or two, in consequence of a delay--the first we have +met with on any railroad on the continent. It was dark when we passed +through Dusseldorf; and we felt sorry not to stay here and see the +water-color drawings that remain in this collection, once so famous; but +we were told at Paris that the best of the drawings and pictures have +gone to Munich. In the cars we met a gentleman and his lady who were +evidently Americans. We entered into conversation, and found they were +from Nashville, Tennessee. They bad been travelling very extensively in +Europe, and had been through Egypt, crossed the desert, and visited +Syria and the Holy City. I quite respected a lady, Charley, who had +travelled hundreds of miles upon a camel. The journey had been very +beneficial to her health. We reached Cologne at about ten o'clock, after +crossing over a bridge of boats fourteen hundred feet long, and went to +the Hotel Holland, on the banks of the river, and found it a very good +house, with a grand view of the Rhine; and the chambers are as good as +can be desired. Few places are more fruitful in the reminiscences which +they furnish than this old city. Cologne has a Roman origin, and was +settled by a colony sent by Nero and his mother, who was born here, in +her father's camp, during the war. It still retains the walls of its +early fortifications, built as long ago as the twelfth and thirteenth +centuries. In Cologne Caxton lived, in 1470, and learnt the new art of +printing, which he carried to England and introduced there. Its present +population is about ninety thousand, having increased latterly, and, no +doubt, will rapidly increase, in consequence of its connection with +Paris, Strasburg, Berlin, Antwerp, and other cities, by railroads. + +We turned our steps very early to the Cathedral, and here we expected +nothing less than a treat; but much as we had heard of it, and often as +the doctor had described it, we found it far beyond all our +anticipations. The church was commenced in 1248, and is still far from +completed. It is always thought to be one of the grandest Gothic piles +in the world. The name of the architect is not known. Gerhard is the +earliest builder whose name is associated with this church, in 1252. The +plan was to build the two towers five hundred feet high; but the +loftiest has only attained the height of about one hundred and +eighty-five feet. Much of the external work is in decay; but great pains +and cost have been given to repair the stone work, and the work is going +on with vigor and success. It is supposed that it will require three +millions of dollars to carry out the design. The form of the church is a +cross, and "the arches are supported by a quadruple row of sixty-four +columns; and, including those of the portico, there are more than one +hundred. The four columns in the middle are thirty feet in +circumference, and each of the one hundred columns is surmounted by a +chapiter different from the others." On one tower still exists the old +crane which raised the stones that came from Drachenfels. The only part +of the cathedral yet finished is the choir. This is one hundred and +sixty-one feet high; and, whether you look at it outside, or gaze on +its interior, you are lost in admiration. The stained windows are really +beyond all others I have seen. All round the choir stand colossal +statues of the Apostles, the Virgin, and the Savior. In a chapel not far +from the altar is the renowned shrine of the Three Kings, or Magi, who +came from the East with gifts to the infant Savior. These bones once +rested at Milan; but Frederic Barbarossa, in 1162, gave them to an +archbishop of Cologne. So here they are in a case, silver gilt, and +arcades on pillars all round; and, inside the pillars, little gold +prophets and apostles. The jewelry at this shrine has been formerly +valued at six millions of francs; but in some of its transportations in +troublous times, it has met with spoliations; but it is still radiant +with gold and pearls, and gems of all descriptions. The restoration of +the shrine is going on, and costly offerings are frequently made in aid +of the undertaking. The skulls of these worthies are crowned with gold, +and look ghastly enough, in spite of diamonds and rubies. Their names +are Caspar, Melchior, and Balthasar. We paid a heavy fee to see the rare +show; but it is well enough to understand the mummery that there is in +the world. We went the entire round of the little chapels, and saw some +fine monuments to the great ones of church and state. I was much pleased +with a bronze statue of Archbishop Conrad, of Hocksteden, who died in +1261, and some exceedingly old paintings. We also saw the library and +sacristy, and the sacred vestments, some of which were splendid enough. +Here we saw a bone of St. Matthew some saint's shrine in silver, and the +state cross of the archbishop, with several of the very finest ivory +carvings that we have fallen in with. A look at the vast workshop where +the stone carvings for restoration are made was quite interesting. + +While wandering through the aisles of the Cathedral, we met with a very +pleasant family from New York; and, after introduction, we agreed to +make the passage of the Rhine together; and, as there are young people +in the party, this will be very agreeable to us. We have rather a +limited time to pass here, and so have concluded to neglect the Virgin's +bones, at St. Ursula's Church, of which we have read all the legends. +Men and women trained up to worship these odds and ends are the people +who are flocking by thousands to our country; and there is a great deal +for such folks to learn before they will value and understand our +privileges. We next turned our steps to St. Peter's Church, where Rubens +was baptized; and we saw the brass font, which is still there, and also +his father's tomb. It was to this church that the great painter +presented his famous Crucifixion of Peter, which he thought the best he +ever painted; but artists differ with him in this estimate. The picture +now exposed to view is only a copy, which was made in Paris when the +original was in the Louvre; but the man in charge turns the picture, +which is on a pivot, and you have the original before you. Peter's head +is very fine, and much more striking than the rest of the body. The +little garden in the cloisters of this church is very sweet, and there +are some good bits of sculpture. The beautiful Church of the Apostles we +could not see, excepting outside, and its appearance is quite singular. +The styles of architecture I thought strangely mixed up. Of course, we +got some cologne water at the genuine fountain head in Julich's Place; +and in the evening we made an examination of a curiosity shop, where we +found a fine old engraving of Rubens's head, and two excellent +engravings of Ostades's interiors. They are gems in their way, and, +though very old, are perfect. We saw the house where the unfortunate +Queen of France died, in 1644, respecting whose last days so interesting +a fiction has been written; and we were told that it was also the very +house in which Rubens was born. At all events, it is a very plain +establishment for such celebrity as it possesses. We have also seen a +military review here; but the discipline was poor, and only the music +good. + +A gentleman here from America, engaged in the wine trade, has amused us +all by his facts in relation to champagne, which is here manufactured +in large quantities, and is fabricated from a mixture of some ten or +twelve different wines. A very superior brand is the result, which the +good people of America will pay well for, with an appropriate brand duly +furnished to order. + +On the roof of our hotel is a sort of room, or garden, called the +Belvedere. In it are a variety of fine plants, in healthy condition. The +roses were very fragrant. The view across the river from this place is +charming; and the village of Deutz looks prettily, with its large hotel +and plenty of smaller houses of resort. To-morrow we go up the Rhine; +and we are all hoping for a fine day, and then we expect a pleasant one. + +Yours truly, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 40. + + +FRANKFORT. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +It was on the Rhine that we all wanted you with us, and other friends, +too, who were far away. This is no common, every-day stream, but one +whose name and renown have been associated with ten thousand pages of +history, song, and legend. We have read of the Rhine, listened to its +songs, drank its wines, dreamed of its craggy, castled banks,--and at +last we found ourselves upon its waters, rushing down from their homes +in Alpine steeps and regions of eternal snow. The deposits of this river +have made Holland what she is; and the rich plains of the Low Countries +have been formed by the alluvial deposits of this noble river. The +enthusiasm of the Germans towards this stream is well known. They call +it Father Rhine, and King Rhine; and well may they be proud of its +beauty and its historic fame. We took our passage in a fine steamer, on +a lovely morning, and it took us about eight hours to reach Coblentz. +Leaving Cologne, we passed an old tower on the edge of the river, and, +for some miles, the prospect was every day enough; and it was not till +we approached Bonn that we were much impressed with the banks. We passed +several villages, which appeared to have pleasant localities. I name +only Surdt, Urfel, Lulsdorf, and Alfter. Bonn is an old city, of Roman +date, and has figured largely in the wars of the Rhine. Its population +is about sixteen thousand. Bonn has a minster, which shows itself finely +to the voyager on the river, and is a Gothic structure of the twelfth +century. The University here is famous for its library, and the great +names formerly associated with this institution--Schlegel and Niebuhr. +Both filled chairs in the college. Prince Albert was educated at this +place. Beethoven was born here. If we could have spent a day at the +Seven Mountains, I should have been glad; but we were only able to look +at them. They vary in height from one thousand and fifty to fourteen +hundred and fifty-three feet. The most picturesque of the group is +Drachenfels; and the beautiful lines of Byron you will recollect, where +he speaks of "the castled crag of Drachenfels." From this place the +stone was taken for the Cathedral at Cologne. The summits of these seven +mountains are crested with ruined castles. Their sides are well wooded, +and around them are spread fruitful vineyards. You know how famous they +are in the legendary lore of the Rhine. The view from Drachenfels is +said to be one of the finest on the river. After leaving Bonn and the +ruins of Godesberg, we soon came to Rolandseck, a lofty eminence, where +are the remains of a baronial fortress and a celebrated ruin of an arch. +I should judge that the access to this place was by a charming road. The +ruins of Rolandseck are immortalized by the ballad of Schiller. +Tradition relates that the castle was destroyed by the Emperor Henry V., +in the twelfth century. At the foot of the mountain is the sweet little +Island of Nonnenwörth, of about one hundred acres, and the ruins of a +convent. The rock here is basaltic, and the production of volcanic +action. Never did Nature present a fairer picture than we gazed upon at +this spot. The villages around are pictures of happiness and content, +and the scenery such as only the Rhine can exhibit. Passing by the +charming, rural-looking Oberwinter, we soon came upon a woody height, +where stands the Gothic Church of St. Apollinarisberg. Here is, or was, +the saint's head; and it was formerly a shrine of great resort. Close by +is the little tower Of Remagen, and opposite are basaltic rocky heights +of six or eight hundred feet, on the sides of which are vineyards--the +vines growing in baskets filled with earth and placed in the crevices of +the rocks. No square foot of soil seems to be wasted; and, to improve +the ground, you will find the plots for vines laid out like potato +patches,--some running this way, and others that,--making the sides of +the hills and banks look very much like basket work. + +We now came, on our left hand, to the ruins of Okenfels and the pretty +town of Linz. The ruins are very dark, and look as if they were past +redemption; whereas, some of these castles retain fine outlines. The red +roofs of the town are in pleasing contrast with the green woods. This +town seemed quite a business place; and I noticed several sloops and +queer-looking vessels at the piers. On the opposite side the Aar falls +into the Rhine. Just back is a town called Sinzig, and story tells that +here Constantine and Maxentius fought the battle which resulted in the +downfall of paganism. Here it was that, the evening previous, +Constantine saw in the heavens the figure of a cross, with the +inscription, "_Εν τουτω νικα_." [Greek: "_En toutô nika_."] But other +legends give the battle place on the banks of the Tiber. + +We were all pleased with a beautiful, modern, castellated building, +erected out of the ruins of an ancient castle, of which a single +venerable tower remains at a small distance. The name is the Castle of +Reineck. It was built for Professor Bethman Holweg, of Bonn, and he +reads his lines in pleasant places. It must have cost much money to rear +such an edifice. Nearly opposite are the ruins of Hammerstein Castle, +where, in 1105, Henry IV. found an asylum. We next came to Andernach. +This is an ancient city, and here you see towers and ruins standing +amidst a wide amphitheatre of basaltic mountains. The place is spoken of +by various old historians, and under several names. The great trade of +the place is in millstones, which find their way even to America. Here +is a celebrated Roman arched gate; but the lancet form would indicate a +later date. On our left, we came to a pleasantly-situated town, called +Neuwied, with some five thousand inhabitants. The streets lie wide; the +houses looked bright, and very much like those in an American town. Here +is a Moravian settlement. On our right is a cheerful little place, +called Weisenthurm, and an ancient tower stands near it. It is said that +here the Romans first made the crossing of this river. This was the spot +where General Hoch passed in 1797; and on a height, at this village, is +a monument to celebrate Hoch's achievement. Here we met with an enormous +raft; and I assure you, Charley, it was a sight. We had seen two or +three small ones before, but here was a monster. These rafts come from +the woods on the tributary rivers--the Moselle, Neckar, Maine, &c. These +prodigious flotillas are bound to Dordrecht, and are there broken up. +This one looked like a town. It had at least twenty-five huts, and some +of them tolerably large shanties; and I should think there were all of +three hundred and fifty persons upon it. On the raft were women, +children, cows, pigs, and sheep. This one was thought to be seven +hundred feet long and two hundred wide, at the least. On our left, as we +ascended the river, we now saw Sain and Mühlhofen, just at the point +where two small rivers enter the Rhine; and on a hill top are the ruins +of a castle of the Counts of Sain. Farther up is the quiet-looking +hamlet of Engers; and we pass the islands of Niederwörth and Graswörth. +On the former is a ruined convent, founded in 1242, and a population of +nearly seven hundred. They seem to have a fine old church. I very much +admired the village of Kesselhein, and I think it must be a charming +spot. Close by it is the Palace of Schönbornhest, where the Bourbon +family retreated at the revolution in the last century. It is now sadly +dilapidated. Just as we were looking at Nuendorf, on our right, we were +all called, by a bend in the river, to gaze on the giant rock of +Ehrenbreitstein, bristling to its very summit with fortifications. O, +how it towers up, and smiles or frowns--which you please--upon Coblentz, +sweetly reposing on the banks of the Rhine and the Moselle! I think the +view from the deck of the steamer, up and down the river, and on each +side, is the noblest panoramic view that I have seen. Just before us is +a bridge of boats, which connects the fortress with Coblentz; and, +looking up the Moselle, is a fine stone bridge. We had our dinner on the +deck of the boat--a good arrangement, because we lost none of the +scenery. This dinner was about midway between Cologne and Coblentz; and +it would have amused you to have noticed the order of the various +courses--soup, boiled beef, raw fish, ducks, roast pork, fowls, pudding, +baked fish, roast beef, and mutton. Every thing was well cooked, and I +never saw people appear more disposed to do justice to a meal. There was +not half the hurry and indecorum that you so often see in an American +boat. One thing I observed--and that was, that no one used the left hand +for the management of his knife. If any thing annoys me, it is to see +persons carve and eat at table with this wretched habit. I always +imagine that they were so unhappy as to have grown up without father or +mother to watch over them. This may be my weakness; but I cannot help +it. We went to the Trois Suisses, a fine house on the river bank, and +from our windows are looking, by moonlight, on the glorious fortress. + +Yours truly, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 41. + + +FRANKFORT. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We had no more pleasant day in our excursion than from Cologne to +Coblentz. It would be long before I grew tired of the scenery at that +fine old place. We walked about, in the evening, with our New York +friends; and, though some parts of Coblentz are very filthy, there are +some exquisite plots in it, and all the vicinage is beautiful. We took a +pleasant stroll to the bridge which spans the blue Moselle with fourteen +arches. The city stands on a point of land formed by the two rivers, and +hence was known to the Romans by the name of _Confluentes_. Drusus +fortified this place and Ehrenbreitstein thirteen years before Christ. +Its population is short of twenty thousand; but there are also four +thousand five hundred Prussian troops at the fortress. This is one of +the strongest military posts in Europe. Its fortifications have been the +labor of long years; and the works here, united with those across the +river, are deemed impregnable. I believe Ehrenbreitstein is called the +Gibraltar of Germany. It mounts four hundred cannon, and the magazines +will contain provisions for eight thousand men for ten years. The former +Electoral Palace is now the Government House, and presents a very noble +appearance from the river. It is either stone, or stuccoed, with an +Ionic portico; and, with its wings, is five hundred and forty feet +front. All round this city, the heights are strongly fortified; and, +look where you may, you see means of defence. + +We here determined upon an excursion to Stolzenfels, which is about four +miles from Coblentz, and our party went in two carriages--the family of +Mr. B. in one, and ourselves in the other. The ride was very pleasant +along the banks of the Rhine, and through orchards and vineyards--the +heights towering away over us all the way. We came to the village of +Capellen, which is a poor little hamlet at the base of the lofty +mountain on which stood the noble ruins of Stolzenfels Castle, which has +been most admirably restored, and is now the summer palace of the King +of Prussia. The ascent is very steep, but the road is admirable. +Carriages are not allowed to go up, and travellers are supplied with +donkeys, of which we found plenty in waiting. Our party all obtained +these patient beasts of burden, and I assure you that we made a funny +cavalcade. I do think it would have amused you to see ladies, gentlemen, +and boys, all escorted by ragged urchins, mounting the hill. The road +has been made at immense expense, and winds along in the most romantic +manner--giving you, at every turn, the finest views and catches of the +river, up and down; while the walls are frequently at the edges of +precipices, from fifty to two hundred feet over the ravines below. The +woods were in all their glory, and I never saw a finer day. On arriving +at the castle, we rang a bell, and the servant in livery appeared--a +fine, civil fellow he was. On entering, we were all furnished with felt +slippers, so that, in walking through the apartments, we might not +injure the polished oak floors. This castle was the residence of +Archbishop Werner, who, at the close of the fourteenth century, was +devoted to alchemy. The old tower is an immense affair, and still +remains, and is likely to remain for ages. The new parts of the palace +have all been restored with constant reference to the original +architectural style. We wandered from one apartment to another, perhaps +going into twenty or thirty apartments, none of which were very large, +and many of them quite small and cosy. We saw the bed-room of the king. +Every thing was plain, and the furniture generally made of oak or black +walnut. His study table had pen and ink and paper upon it, just as if +he had stepped out of the room. The queen's apartments were very +elegantly plain, and her oratory is as pretty a little thing as you can +imagine. In all these apartments are fine pictures, and one is superbly +frescoed with allegory and history. The room in which the Queen of +England and Prince Albert lodged, in 1845, was shown us, and the state +bed was still in it. The dining hall was finely ornamented with +carvings, old armor, &c. But a room devoted to antiquities pleased us +the best of all. Here were cups, bottles, and glass goblets of the +earliest dates,--some as far back as the twelfth and thirteenth +centuries,--which had belonged to emperors and electors whom I cannot +recollect, they were so many. On the walls were the most precious +mementoes; and here we saw the swords of Marshal Tilly, Napoleon +Bonaparte,--the one used at Waterloo,--Blucher, and Murat, and the knife +and fork belonging to the brave Hofer, the Tyrolese patriot, who was +shot at Mantua. From all the windows of this gem of a palace we had the +finest views of the river, and could see, from the gateway and platform, +Coblentz, Ehrenbreitstein, and eleven different ruins of castles and +convents. Directly in front of us, on a bend of the river, almost making +a peninsula, was Lahnstein and its ruined castle; off to its right, +Braubach, and the Castle of Marksburg and Martin's Chapel; and, on our +own side, the pretty village of Rheus, where was once "the royal seat," +and where the electors of the Rhine used to meet, to elect or depose the +emperors of Germany. All round the castle of Stolzenfels are the +choicest flowers and shrubs; and I wish some of my horticultural friends +could have seen the moss roses and fuchias in such luxuriance. We were +sorry to leave the place; but the steamboat on the Rhine is as punctual +as a North River boat; and we had to resume our donkeys, descend to the +carriages, drive briskly, and were just in time to get on board a boat +bound to Mayence. In going up the river, we saw the palace again to +great advantage; and, whatever else I forget, this locality I shall keep +in memory, I assure you. We again looked at Lahnstein, and the ruins of +St. John's Church, built in 1100, and saw a curious ferry, from the +mouth of the Lahn over to Stolzenfels. It is made by five or six boats +anchored off, and the ferry boat goes over, wafted by the tide. We then +came upon Bopart, an old place, but strongly fortified, and having three +or four thousand inhabitants. A gentleman on board, who had been there, +said it was quite an interesting place. Nearly opposite we were +delighted with the ruined towers of the Brothers, as Sternberg and +Liebenstein are called. They occupy the two summits of a rock, every +inch of whose sides is sacred to vines. The story of the brothers who +lived here you are acquainted with. Our next point of interest was the +ruin of Thurnberg, or the Mouse; while not far above is another, called +the Cat. The view here grows more sublime, and the river grows narrower; +and we had a fine prospect of Rheinfels and the town of St. Goar. +Rheinfels grows up from the river's edge, and is, indeed, _the_ rock of +the Rhine. The fortifications were immense, and this is the most +wonderful ruin on the river. A confederacy of German and Rhenish cities +broke up this fortress at the close of the thirteenth century, and long +afterwards it was made a modern defence. Here the river seems pent up, +almost; and just above St. Goar there rises from the water a lofty +precipice, called the Lurley Rock. Nearly opposite, a man lives, who, +when the boat passes, fires a pistol, and a very singular echo follows, +as we can testify. Not far above are seven rocks, seen at low water, +called the Seven Sisters. The legend says that they were hard-hearted +girls,--the Ladies Schonberg,--who trifled with the affections of nice +young men, and so got their deserts by being turned into stones. Still, +at the right, we came to Oberwesel, and we all thought it among the +sweetest spots of the river. Salmon are caught in nets here, from the +rocks. A bend in the river shows us Schonberg, a fine ruin. This was the +family spot whence the Marshal Schomberg, of the Boyne, originated. Just +over the river is the noble Gutenfels. It was spared by the French, and +occupied till 1807, but is now roofless. Caub, on the left, is the place +where Marshal Blucher crossed the river with his army, January 1, 1814. +In the centre of the river is a castle called Pfalz, built about 1320, +which was used as a toll-house by the Duke of Nassau. I think it has +been used as a state prison. On our right lies Bacharach, with its many +towers, and the fine old ruins of Stahleck Castle. Off this place is a +large rock, the Altar of Bacchus; and when the rock is exposed, it is +thought to be the pledge of a good vintage. The region is celebrated for +its wines; and the grapes of the slaty rocks have a highly musky +perfume. A gentleman told me that Bacharach resembles Jerusalem in its +aspect. Of course, it must be in miniature that the resemblance exists. +Here we noticed St. Werner's Church, a most superb ruin of the florid +Gothic. Those lancet-arched windows are the admiration of all who pass +by. Lorchausen is a small place, and just away from it are the ruins of +the Castle of Nollingen. On the other side, or right bank, are the ruins +of the old Keep Tower of Fürstenberg, destroyed in 1689. Here we enter +on the region where the best Rhenish wine is produced. The Rheingau, or +valley of the river, is divided into upper and lower departments; and +from about Lorch, on the left bank, up to Biberich, are the choicest +vineyards. On our right lay the ruins of Heimberg, and the restored +Castle of Sonneck. Then comes old Falkenberg, and near to it is the +splendid Gothic Church of St. Clement. All these fortresses were the +abodes of wholesale highwaymen, and then might made right. Most of them +became such nuisances that, at the close of the thirteenth century, they +were hurled down, and their places made desolate. Here, too, is +Rheinstein, on the very bank of the river. Its early owner was hanged by +the Emperor Rudolph. One of the Prussian princes has fitted up the +fortress in magnificent style; and I learn that there is no palace in +Europe that can boast of such mediæval splendor. Every thing that can +serve to illustrate the dark ages is carefully collected for this +charming spot, which seems a rival to Stolzenfels. + +Just across, on the opposite bank, is Assmanshausen, famous for hot +baths and red wine. Here you see terrace upon terrace, up to the summits +of the hills; and some of these, the guide books say, are one thousand +or twelve hundred feet. You will often see fifteen or twenty of these +terraces supported by brick and stone fences, and the terrace is often +not more than six feet wide; and the soil and manure have all to be +carried up on the shoulders of the vine-dressers. The value of this +region-arises from its aspect, owing to the bend of the river, which +gives _this left bank, as you ascend_, a direct exposure to the sun at +midday. + +The vintage of the Rhine, I am told, is generally gathered in during +October and November, but it is put off as late as possible. Grapes were +introduced here by the Romans. + +We now came to Ehrenfels, in its venerable decay, the beautiful tower of +Rosel, and the ruins of Bromseberg; while on our right are the ruins of +Vautsberg, and just beyond we come upon "Bingen of the Rhine," at the +mouth of the Nahe; and close by is the celebrated Mausetherm, or Mouse +Tower, said to have been built by Hatto, the Archbishop of Mayence, in +the tenth century. Southey's fine ballad has immortalized the legend. +Never did town present sweeter aspect than Bingen, at the foot of a +pyramidical hill, which is crowned by the ruined Castle of Klopp. In a +church here lies Bartholomew of Holshausen, who prophesied the fatality +of the Stuarts and Charles II.'s restoration, warning him not to restore +Popery. Bingen has, I think, some five or six thousand inhabitants, and +has a great trade in wine, which is collected here from all the +vineyards around. Rudesheim lies on the other bank, and its famous wine +comes from grapes growing close to Ehrenfels. Next comes Geisenheim, +also famous for wine, and soon comes the renowned village and vineyard +of Johannisberg, or Mountain of St. John. Here the river is wide +again,--perhaps two thousand fire hundred feet,--and we begin to see +fine meadows. This is where Prince Metternich has his seat, where once +was a priory, and various have been its vicissitudes. In 1816, it was +given to Metternich by the Emperor of Austria. The mountain contains +only seventy-five acres, and the choicest wine comes only from vines +growing near the castle, on the crown of the bill. The wine of the +village is very inferior to that of this estate. The place has but few +inhabitants--say five or eight hundred. The house is white, and not very +castle-like. The grape is called the _Riesslingen_. + +[Illustration: VINEYARD ON THE RHINE.--Pp. 175.] + +Here we found several islands. Erbach and Hattenheim are both famous for +vineyards, and between them grows the famous Marcobrünner; and the +Steinberg vineyard, a fortune to the Duke of Nassau, lies upon a slope +of the hill close to the convent, of Eberbach or Erbach. This convent +was founded in 1131, but is now a lunatic asylum. The churches here are +very fine. Opposite the shore lies Rhine Island, and forms a noble park. +Walluff, with few inhabitants, is regarded as the commencement of the +Rheingau, or wine district, along which we had coasted. Biberich, on the +duchy of Nassau, now comes upon our view; and the noble château of the +duke presents one of the finest mansions on the river. Here some of our +passengers left for Frankfort, and took the rail; but we wished to see +Mayence, and so went in the boat. The city looks finely, and its red +towers and steeples make quite a show. This city belongs to the Duke of +Hesse Darmstadt, and is garrisoned by Austrians and Prussians, in equal +force, generally eight or ten thousand. Exclusive of these, the +population is nearly forty thousand. We walked about, and looked at the +fine Cathedral, which was sadly shut up by houses and shanties. It was +too late to enter it. You may be sure, Charley, that we found out the +monument to John Guttemberg, the inventor of movable types. It is of +bronze, and was designed by Thorwaldsen, and stands in front of the +Theatre, once a university. After perambulating the town till weary, we +came to the bridge of boats, sixteen hundred and sixty-six feet long, +and which connects Mayence with Cassel, a strongly fortified place, +where the railroad depot is located. At this bridge are several boat +mills, or tide mills, where grain is ground by the tidal action. They +look strangely, but work well. On the bridge we met many Austrian +officers in rich uniforms, most of them young, and, I thought, very +aristocratical in their bearing. Our dinner on board the boat was as +profuse as the day before; and I must not forget to tell you that we had +an English lordling, son of a former premier, on board, with his lady, +on their matrimonial tour. He was the worst-mannered young man that I +have seen in Europe; and when he had ogled the company sufficiently with +his glass, and manifested his contempt pretty plainly, he and his betook +themselves to the interior of his carriage. He was quite young, and may +grow better behaved. We took the ears at dark, and after riding +twenty-two miles found ourselves at Frankfort, having passed through +Hochheim, where the vineyards are so costly that the railroad company +had to pay well for the passage-way. Here we put up at the Hotel +Angleterre. Forgive this long letter; but I could not well shorten it, +and I want you to know just what we saw. + +Always yours, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 42. + + +STRASBURG. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +James's long letter gave you a pretty correct view of our passage from +Coblentz to Frankfort. You will recollect that we went up the Rhine, +which gave us more time to look about; but I fancy that in going down +stream the shores would show to better advantage, if possible, than in +the ascent. From Coblentz to Mayence the river is narrower than before; +and every rock more precipitous than its neighbor, has a castle. How +some of these towers were built, or could be got at, seems a mystery. I +had no idea of the number of these robbers' nests, for such they were. +Much as I love the Hudson, yet I cannot help saying that the Rhine is +_the_ river of the world, so far as I have seen the watery highways. +Frankfort is one of the free towns of Germany, and lies on the Maine. It +has about sixty-five thousand inhabitants, of whom seven thousand are +Jews. I like the city much, and think a residence here would be very +agreeable. Some of the modern streets are very handsome, and the +dwellings are fine. The old part of the town is old enough. At our hotel +we found a sentinel on guard, in honor of an Austrian general staying at +the house. The house is a capital one, like all the other great hotels +we have yet seen on the continent. We all went to see the Römer, or Town +Hall, which was built about 1425, and which is quite famous for its +historical associations. Here the German emperors were formerly elected +and inaugurated. We saw the great hall where they were entertained and +had crowned heads for waiters. Here, on its walls, are all the portraits +of the series of emperors from Conrad I. to Francis II., and each +emperor has his motto underneath. Some of these are quaint enough. +Directly in front of this building is the Römerberg, or Market-place, in +which the carousing incident to coronation used to occur; and it is +large enough to accommodate a vast assembly. We rode along the banks of +the river, to see a pretty little palace belonging to Duke Somebody, and +especially to see the grounds and hothouses. They were exquisitely +beautiful. As we were here upon a holiday of the church, the Museum was +closed, and we lost the sight of some good pictures. We were much +pleased with a visit to the garden of Mr. Bethman, a banker, where we +saw a pretty little collection of statuary, the gem of which is +Dannecker's statue of Ariadne. The building in which these are placed is +neat. We, of course, went to see No. 74 in the Hersch-Graben, where +Goethe was born, in 1749. In the corner house of the Dom Platz, Luther +once dwelt We rode through the Jews' quarters; and, of all the +wretched-looking streets, I think the worst and filthiest is that in +which Baron Rothschild was born. As we passed a Sabbath here, we +attended the English Episcopal Church, a neat building. The service was +well read by the chaplain, and an excellent sermon was preached by a +stranger. After service I spoke to the chaplain, who was quite anxious +to hear about the prospects of Popery in America. He seemed to have very +just views of the system, and anxiously deprecated its influence in our +Country. + +We visited many shops, and found the richest collections of curiosities +and antiquities. Here we met with several American friends upon their +tour; and at Frankfort we took leave of our New York friends, whose +kindness and agreeable company we had been favored with for a few days. + +We took the rail for Heidelberg, on our way to Strasburg. The whole of +the first few miles was through a very flat-looking country, and our +interest was not called out till we came to Darmstadt, a fine town, with +thirty thousand inhabitants. We saw a tall column, but could not find +out its historical allusion. This is the capital of the grand duchy of +Hesse Darmstadt. In passing through Odenwald, we saw a tract of woody +country; and off to our left we were quite sure that the scenery must be +very beautiful. The hills in the distance form the boundary on the +eastern part of the valley of the Rhine; and the mountain ranges are +richly covered with vineyards and castles all the way, parallel with the +railroad. This beautiful region is called the Bergstrasse, and I am sure +a week or two on these hills would amply repay the pedestrian. It is in +these wild regions of romance that the Castle of Rodenstein is found, +some ten miles from Erbach; and not far from it Castle Schnellert, where +the wild Jager is supposed to live, who haunts the forests and gives +spectral forewarnings of battles. Off to our left there was a constantly +shifting panoramic view of hill top and ruins. + +Heidelberg is sweetly situated on the bank of the Neckar--a beautiful +river, and one that I long to trace by its course through wood and hill. +This town is famous for its university and castle. It has about seven +hundred and fifty students. We could only see the castle, and admire its +exterior. The college was founded in 1386, and is very distinguished as +a law school. The library is very large and excellent. The barbarian +Tilly is said to have provided litter for his cavalry from books and +MSS. out of this then magnificent collection. The ruin of this glorious +old castle dates from 1764, when it was burnt by lightning. It is built +of red stone. If I live, I hope to visit this place again, and make a +thorough exploration of this stupendous ruin. It is here, in a cellar, +that the largest wine butt in the world is found, and it will contain +eight hundred hogsheads. It has long been empty, however. I never longed +to follow a river more than I do this same Neckar--it is so clear, and +all my glimpses of it have been so filled up with quiet beauty and wild +scenery. We saw a hill, near the town, which affords the finest view, we +are told, in Germany, and even takes in Strasburg Cathedral spire, which +is quite ninety miles off! + +From Heidelberg we again took the cars for Kehl, about four miles from +Strasburg, a distance of nearly ninety miles. The first-class cars are +very luxurious and reasonable; second class, excellent, and very +genteel-looking persons using them. Lord Cowley, father of Lady Bulwer, +wife of the minister from England at Washington, was in the cars with +us, and two of his children--one a beautiful little girl. They were +going to Baden, and were accompanied by a governess. + +We found no more of the extraordinary beauty that had made our morning +ride so charming. Bruchsal seemed a dull place, as seen from the +station; and Durlach had not much greater attractions. Carlsruhe is +quite a place, has some repute for its baths, and is the capital of the +grand duchy of Baden. Off to the south of this town we saw the skirts of +the Black Forest. All around we saw a fine growth of poplars. Passing +Etlingen and Muggensturm, we come to Rastadt--rather a pretty station, +and the town is fortified. At Oos our passengers for Baden took a branch +train, which, after three miles' ride, brought them into the famous +Baden-Baden. We reached Kehl, which is a mere village on the Rhine, but +has seen enough of war. Here we took an omnibus and started for +Strasburg, distant some four miles. When we reached the French +custom-house, over the river, we had quite a searching time; and even a +flask of cologne was taxed some twenty cents. We were weary enough, and +glad to get into quarters, which we established at the Ville de Paris, +a very superior house, with excellent rooms and elegant furniture, while +the cookery was perfect. To-morrow we have enough to see and to do. +To-night we shall retire early; but, go where we may, we shall furnish +you the promised account of our wanderings. + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 43. + + +STRASBURG. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Long before we entered this city, we obtained a fine view of its great +glory, the Cathedral spire. What an object! It does not seem as if +hammer and chisel had had any thing to do here. I can almost fancy that +this spire was thought out and elaborated by mere intellect. It would be +long ere I grew weary of looking at this wondrous work of man. The more +you examine this edifice, the more you are impressed with its +magnificence. Let me tell you about this same minster, as it is called. +The spire is four hundred and seventy-four feet high--one hundred and +forty feet higher than St. Paul's, and twenty-four feet higher than the +Pyramids of Egypt. The architect was Erwin of Steinbach, and his plans +survived him. He died in 1318, when the work was carried on by his son. +The tower was not finished till four hundred and twenty-five years +after the commencement of the building, and then Hültz, from Cologne, +came to effect the undertaking. The tracery of this lofty pinnacle is +inimitably beautiful. We ascended the spire, and I can assure you that +the prospect amply repays the trouble. We saw the winding, silvery +Rhine, the Black Forest, and the long line of the Vosges Mountains. I +never felt more keenly my inability to describe a place than when I +walked through this gorgeous sanctuary. You must see it, to form an +adequate idea of its grandeur. The nave was begun in 1015, and completed +in 1275. The choir is yet older, and is thought to belong to the times +of Charlemagne. The large rose window, over the front entrance, is +thought to be the finest specimen of stained glass now existing. The +stone pulpit of 1486 is the grandest we have yet seen, and in better +taste than some of the carved wood pulpits in Belgium. The columns are +very massive. One of the chief attractions in this church is the +mechanical clock, which occupies a large space at the left hand as you +enter the building. The true time to see it is at twelve o'clock, when +Death strikes the hour, the apostles all pass before you, a large cock +up above flaps his wings and crows admirably three times, flags are +waved, and the affair ends. Here, close by, is the architect Erwin's +effigy, in stone. + +We next went to St. Thomas's Church, to see the superb tomb of Marshal +Saxe, which is a work of great merit. In a vault we saw the remains of a +Count of Nassau and his daughter, who had been coffined down for--I +forget how long, but I think more than two centuries. It was here that +Guttemburg began his experiments in printing, which he perfected at +Mayence. We made some purchases here of embroidery, which we thought +very beautiful, and also cheap. General Kleber's tomb and monument are +in the Place d'Armes. Of course, we did not visit Strasburg and forget +that it furnishes _pâté's des fois gras_. We obtained some good +engravings of the churches and other points of interest, and, on a fine +afternoon, took the railroad for Basle. + +Yours affectionately, + +GEORGE. + + + + +Letter 44. + + +BASLE. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We took the cars from Strasburg in the afternoon for this place. The +distance is eighty-six miles; and, owing to some twenty way stations, we +were nearly five hours on the rail; but the beauty of the scenery +reconciled us to a prolongation of the time usually spent on such a +journey. The general route was over a flat country, with sundry bridges +over small streams; but, off to our right, we were close to the Vosges +Mountains, which kept us company nearly every mile of the journey. I +suppose you know that Strasburg is very strongly fortified. We saw its +works to great advantage when leaving the city by the train. We were +much assisted in our knowledge of places on the mountains by a fine +panoramic volume of engravings which we bought at Strasburg, and which +really gives a capital idea of the entire scene of travel. I will just +name the principal places that we passed by and through, that you may +trace on the map and read about them, for some are important towns. St. +Erstein is a place of four thousand inhabitants; Benfield is very pretty +indeed; and close by is a fine-looking town, with a fine situation. We +saw a noble spire off to our left. Schlestadt has ten thousand +inhabitants, and is fortified. From it chimneys, we supposed it must be +a manufacturing place. The view of the Vosges here is very imposing. +They are generally with rolling summits; and upon some eminence, jutting +out, stands a castle. The Hoher Königsberg is the largest castle of the +range, and it was destroyed during the thirty years' war, in 1633. Here +we saw fine vineyards. Colmar looks like a very prosperous place. Its +manufactories make quite a show, and all around we saw well-built cotton +factories; and the entire spot had a Rhode Island look. Dr. C. turned +our attention to the village of Turckheim, about three miles off, where +Marshal Turenne beat the Imperialists in 1675. Egnisheim and its +three-towered castle is a small affair. Bolwiller is a perfect vineyard +all around, and the wines of this region are excellent. Nothing, hardly, +seems to be cultivated but the vine. Opposite to this place is the +loftiest of the Vosges; and my panorama makes it four thousand seven +hundred feet above the sea. Mühlhausen is a very active, busy-looking +town, with a population of nearly thirty thousand. Here the fine cotton +prints of France are fabricated. Much of the property is owned at Basle, +we were afterwards told. This place has to obtain its cotton from Havre +and Marseilles; and even coal has to come from a distance. + +It was dark when we took an omnibus at the terminus; and, after riding +over an old bridge, we were very soon established at a princely hotel +known as the Trois Rois. This house is on the banks of the Rhine, and +its windows command a very fine view. The historical reminiscences of +Basle are interesting, and its position very commanding. Here the Rhine +is bounded by the hills of the Black Forest and the Jura range. + +Next morning we took a stroll to see the lay of the land; and we found +ourselves on a terrace overlooking the Rhine, and forming a part of the +cathedral ground. O, it was glorious to look at, Charley. There, +stretched away on the other side, were the hills of the Black Forest, +whose legends we have so often pored over. This terrace is finely-wooded +with linden and chestnut-trees. We walked back to town, and called upon +our consul, Mr. Burchardt, and found him very kind and friendly. He gave +himself up to us for the entire day, and became our guide to all the +objects of interest. He dined with us; and then we all went to his +charming country-house, about one and a half miles from town, and took +tea with his family. Our first object was the Cathedral. This is a red +sandstone church, with two steeples, and was consecrated in 1019. The +crypt, no doubt, is as ancient as this date. Here is the tomb of the +empress, wife of Rudolph of Hapsburg. Here, too, we saw the tombstone of +Erasmus, who died in 1536. In the cloisters, which are very noble, are +the monuments of Å’colampadius, Grynæus and Myer, the reformers. This +church is Protestant. It is plain, but venerable. In the chapter-house, +which we visited, was held the Council of Basle, which lasted from 1436 +to 1444. The room is just as it then appeared, and the very cushions on +the seats are still preserved. Our next visit was to the Holbein +Gallery, where the largest collection of paintings by this master is to +be seen. Here we saw the fragments of the Dance of Death, but which +some say are of an earlier date than Holbein's day. I liked his +portraits better than his other pieces. One sketch of Sir Thomas More's +family is very fine. We also saw the library, and a large collection of +Roman antiquities. The portraits are very fine at the library; and we +saw those of Euler and Bernouilli, the mathematicians. At the university +we saw the building, and received polite attentions from the librarian +and Latin professor. We also saw the professor of chemistry, renowned +for his discovery of gun cotton. The collection of MSS. is very large +and rich; and we had the gratification to have in our hands the +handwriting of several letters by Melancthon, Calvin, Luther, Erasmus, +&c., &c. I think this is a good place to live in for purposes of study. +At Basle there is a large missionary seminary; and a great many of the +best missionaries in India and Africa were educated here. We also +visited the private reading-room of a club, and found a very good +library there. On the table were several American papers--the New York +Herald, Express, and the Boston Mercantile Journal. After dinner we took +a carriage and repaired to St. Jacob, a quiet village, about one mile +from Basle. Here we found a neat little church, and, at the junction of +two roads, a Gothic cross, to commemorate the famous battle of St. +Jacob, in 1444, when sixteen hundred Swiss fought the French army under +the dauphin for a whole day. The French were over sixteen thousand +strong. Only ten Swiss escaped the slaughter. Lest you should think me +at fault upon the numbers in this battle, I would say that I know +Watteville calls the Swiss twelve hundred, and the French thirty +thousand; but I quote from Swiss historians, who are deemed good +authority. We went into the little tavern and drank some red wine, which +goes by the name of Swiss blood. We then ascended an eminence commanding +a fine view of the city, the river, and the Jura Mountains. At the +summit we found a church; and the parsonage next to it looked very cosy +and comfortable. The pastor's children were running about, and were very +noble-looking boys. We learnt that while the stipend of the pastor was +very small,--as is the case in Switzerland,--yet he was a man of wealth. + +We were quite amused with the market day here. Droves of country people +were in the streets--the women in country costume; and on the ground +there were vast collections of crockery, which seemed one of the chief +articles of traffic. + +A charming drive, late in the afternoon, took us to the consul's +hospitable abode; and there, with his lady, we had a thoroughly Yankee +tea-time. In the evening we walked back to the city, crossing the old +bridge. + +Yours affectionately, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 45. + + +LAUSANNE. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We left Basle on a bright morning, at six o'clock, having places in the +_coupé_ of the diligence for Berne, a distance of seventy-six miles. We +took this route in order to enjoy the remarkable scenery which marks the +Moutiers Valley, which is the most romantic in the Jura Mountain range. +This journey entirely takes the palm, for enjoyment, of any in our tour; +and I think I am more surprised and gratified than I was on the Rhine. +Certainly the prospect was more constantly grand and awe inspiring. We +started with six horses,--three abreast,--and jogged on, at about six +miles the hour, over as good roads as I ever travelled. They are, also, +the cleanest you ever saw. All along, at intervals, we saw men with +badges on their hats, who appeared to have charge of the highway. Every +thing on the road is scraped up; and at every quarter of a mile, or +less, there is at the wayside an enclosure for manure, into which every +thing is turned. On all the line of travel in Switzerland, we were +struck with the careful way in which heaps of manure are protected by +large bands of corded hay, twisted around. Then, too, in the villages +and towns we were all interested with the enormous stone troughs for +watering cattle. Some of these appeared to me full twenty feet long, +and two or three deep. On our way from Basle we passed the battle ground +of St. Jacob; and some way farther on we saw the battle field of +Dornach, at which place the Swiss obtained a victory over the Austrians +in 1499. A little before reaching Tavannes we ascended a hill, and came +to a wonderful archway across the road--perhaps natural. On it is a +Roman inscription. The arch is, I should think, nearly fifty feet high +and fifteen feet in depth. We then went on to Bienne; and a +pretty-looking place it is. We left it on our right, and our road was +very hilly, really mountainous, and the air was sharp. As we walked for +two or three miles to help the horses, we found the wild strawberries +offered for sale very pleasant. We reached Berne late in the evening; +and the entrance to the town, through a noble avenue of trees called the +Engæ, was very pleasant. We repaired to the Faucon, and enjoyed the +repose of a long night. + +Berne is a large town, with a population of nearly thirty thousand. It +lies on the banks of the Aar, which goes almost round the city. The +great elevation of the city--seventeen hundred feet above the sea--gives +it quite an appearance on approaching it. Then the houses are all built +upon arched pathways, and they form arcades, very much like the old city +of Chester, in England. We noticed several watch towers, evidently very +ancient; and one in the town, near our hotel, has a queer clock, which, +like that at Strasburg, is mechanical. On striking, out comes a cock and +flaps away with his wings, and then little images appear, and bears pass +by a puppet, seated on a throne. Bears seem to be the guardian angels of +the place, and are the arms of the town. We were very much pleased with +an extensive prospect of the Bernese Alps, from a terrace overhanging +the rapid river. I cannot tell you how many peaks we saw covered with +snow. Our panorama, purchased here, enumerates more than a dozen; and +among these are the Wetterhorn, Stockhorn, and Jungfrau. We greatly +enjoyed a fine sunset from this spot. The Cathedral is a noble +structure, built between 1421 and 1573, and from designs by the son of +the architect of the Cathedral at Strasburg. Some of the work here is +exceedingly fine. The great entrance is very imposing, and has rich +sculptures. Here, too, are some beautifully-painted windows--one +describing the pope grinding the four evangelists in a mill, out of +which comes wafers, is very curious. The organ is very fine, and the +case one of the richest in Europe. It has four rows of keys and +sixty-six stops. The font is of black granite, and has the date of 1525, +which is three years previous to the church reformation in this canton. +It has some finely-sculptured images of the Trinity, Virgin Mary, and +St. Vincent, the patron saint of the church. We were pointed out the +communion table, of marble, which is an immense block, and before the +reformation it was an altar at Lausanne. There are some fine monuments, +having great antiquity. + +In the choir we were delighted with the old prebendal stalls, over which +were figures of Christ and his apostles, and on the opposite side +prophets, all in carved wood. One of the prophets was a capital likeness +of Luther. + +As we were leaving this noble edifice, we met a minister coming in; he +wore a short, black gown, and had a deep white ruff on his shoulders. + +The library of the town embraces about forty-five thousand volumes--and +well assorted, too. What a reproach it is to us that, excepting in +Providence, hardly any small city has what can be called a library! + +The Museum we could not examine. I spoke of bears: well, the town keeps +several of these fellows at a place called the Bärengraben. + +Much did we long to take a trip into the Bernese Oberland, but it was +not practicable; so we started for Lausanne by diligence, a distance of +fifty-six miles, and were eleven hours on the way. We saw much fine +scenery, but nothing that would compare with the Munster Thal or Valley +of Moutiers, and which I think would pay any lover of nature to come +from America to look at and travel through. The places we went through +were Morat, famous for its battle in 1476; Avenches, the Roman +Aventicum; Payerne, &c. The last few miles were of great labor in +ascent; and as it was pitch dark for some miles, I cannot tell much +about what is said to be beautiful. + +At Lausanne we went to the Hotel Gibbon, and a lovelier spot than the +rear of this mansion eye never rested upon. Again we were weary, and +found good beds very inviting. + +Yours, &c., + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 46. + + +LAUSANNE AND GENEVA. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We are staying in one of the most romantic and beautiful spots that I +ever had the pleasure to visit. The population is seventeen thousand, +and on the increase. It is the favorite resort of the English; and no +wonder, for here are displays of the glory and of the power of the +Creator rarely to be seen. The town stands on a mount, and descends +gradually to the lake. On every side are most precipitous ravines; and +the streets are the most break-neck-looking highways I ever saw. +Putnam's Leap would be thought nothing of at Lausanne. + +Our hotel overlooks Gibbon's garden, and we saw his trees and seat. +Here he composed his eloquent work on the Roman empire. His portrait is +in the hotel dining-room. The prospect surpasses in richness all that I +had fancied. Before us lie the Alps, with snowy tops; between us and +these is the glassy lake, and on its waters we notice a regatta, the +boats all adorned with flags and the crews with ribbons. There are, I +should think, from fifty to seventy-five boats in sight. Up in the Alps +there is a fire in the woods; and the volume of smoke and flashing of +flame form a fine addition to the scene. + +The temperature of the climate is very favorable to health; and now, in +June, it reminds us of our finest clear days at Newport. + +On Sabbath morning we repaired to a charming little Episcopal church, +near the lake; and the walk of a mile down hill was delightful. On both +sides of the road were fine villas, and on the left one estate had its +long wall defended by a hedge of roses in full bloom; such a hedge is +rarely to be witnessed. We heard a prosy sermon from the old gentleman +who has officiated there for some years. I noticed a lady and four sweet +little girls who sat in the next pew to us, and was convinced that she +was an English lady; and when we overtook her ascending the hill, on our +return, I took the liberty to ask a question about the church. She very +politely gave me the information, and a conversation commenced. She told +me, as a stranger, what I ought to see; and when we were leaving her, +she politely offered us an invitation to join her family in the evening, +to take a walk to the mountain overhanging Lausanne, known as the +Signal, and from whence, in olden time, the watch-fire used to be +kindled when the cantons were called to arm for liberty, or danger was +expected. This kindness we accepted; and when she gave me her address, I +found I had to call at the Hotel de Ville. Well, at half past six, the +lads and I repaired to the mansion, a very venerable pile, and we found +that our kind friend was no less a personage than the wife of the +syndic, or mayor of the city. We were most kindly received and +introduced to his honor--a fine-looking, elderly gentleman, who spoke no +English; but his family conversed generally in our language. We sallied +forth, and took a walk up, up, up,--never will the boys forget that +tramp; indeed, Charley, it was the hardest affair I ever went through; +but after the ascent was achieved, the recompense was ample. Such a +survey of lake, shore, Alps, city, villages, vineyards, cannot be +enjoyed elsewhere. It was very cold in these upper regions; and as we +descended, the shades of night were over us, and a beautiful moon made +its appearance. When parting from our friends, they urged our joining +them at seven o'clock to visit the Cathedral, with the mayor as our +guide. I accepted the polite offer, but the boys were frightened at the +thought of another ascent; for the minster is perched upon a cliff, and +you ascend some hundreds of steps to reach the platform. + +At seven we were on hand, and with the syndic and his sweet little girl +we visited the finest Gothic pile in Switzerland, which was built in +1275, and consecrated by Gregory X. The form is that of the Latin cross. +Formerly it had two towers; but one was destroyed by lightning, in 1825. +Here are several fine monuments and tombs of interest; one an effigy in +mail armor of Otho of Grandeson, and another of Pope Felix V., who +resigned the papacy and became a monk, and a very beautiful one to the +wife of Stratford Canning; the figures of which are eight in number, and +two of them are by Canova; also the tomb of Bernard de Menthon, founder +of the St. Bernard Hospice. + +We returned to the Hotel de Ville and took breakfast with Madame Gadaud, +for whom and her kind family we shall long cherish grateful +recollections. + +From Lausanne we took boat for Vevay. The port of Lausanne is the little +village of Ouchy. I ought to tell you that John Philip Kemble, the great +tragedian, is buried two miles from this place. We found the excursion +on the lake very agreeable, and passed many pretty villages on the left +shore till we came to Vevay, a sweet little town, of five thousand +inhabitants, and is embowered in vineyards. It is about one mile and a +quarter from the foot of the Alps. Here we had a view of the Castle of +Chillon, and Byron was on our tongues at once. My great object in coming +here was to see St Martin's Church, for here are buried Ludlow, the +regicide, and Broughton, who read the sentence of Charles I. Charles II. +could never get the Swiss to deliver these patriots into his hands. In +the afternoon we took another boat and went to Geneva in about five +hours, and stopped at Ouchy, Morges, Rolle, Nyon, and Coppet. At Morges +is a fine old castle, in good condition. Nearly opposite Rolle we saw +the hoary head of Mont Blanc, towering above the giant brotherhood of +Alpine heights. We did not see Lake Leman in a storm, and though +certainly beautiful in its adjuncts, not more so than Lake Erie. At +Coppet was the residence of Madame De Staël. + +We reached Geneva in the evening at seven, and went to the Hotel L'Eou. +Here we were delighted to meet again with the Rev. Dr. Murray and Dr. +Chetwood, and also to find the Rev. Mr. Chickering and Rev. Mr. Jacobus, +with his family, and other valued friends. + +The approach to Geneva from the lake is very imposing; but I was less +pleased with the town itself than I expected to be. Its position is very +grand. Its history is every thing, however. The Cathedral Church of St. +Peter is a fine specimen of the Gothic of the eleventh century. The +sounding board is the same under which Calvin preached. + +The population is about forty thousand, including the suburbs, and +thousands of tourists are every year residents for a few days. We had a +pleasant morning at the Museum, where are some good pictures and many +curiosities. In the library are Calvin's letters in MS., forty or fifty +volumes of MS. sermons, &c. This same Calvin and this old town of Geneva +have had much to do with our own blessed country; and we feel the agency +of this man and this town in all our ten thousand joys and comforts. + +I could not forget that here was the home of Merle D'Aubigné, the +historian of the Protestant reformation, and that here, too, is the +residence of the learned Gaussen, the author of Theopneusty, and of the +venerable Cæsar Malan. Calling upon this last-named gentleman, I was +delighted to find that the Evangelical Association of Geneva was in +annual session. This is the great Protestant body with which the +American Evangelical Union is in alliance, and for whose operations our +friend Dr. Baird has awakened so lively an interest. I went to the +church where the meeting was convened, and was introduced to Count +George, a very pious Frenchman of fortune, who resides here and devotes +himself to the cause of the Protestant religion. He is a Baptist, but is +connected with the church which embraces several evangelical +denominations. The count presided with great ability; he is a very +elegant man, about thirty-four, I should imagine. + +I had the pleasure to hear D'Aubigné give a report of his visit to Great +Britain. He spoke for two hours. He is quite the orator, and had entire +command of the audience, who wept and laughed as he proceeded. The +historian is a very noticeable man, and strongly reminded us all of +President Wayland, to whom his resemblance is very striking. + +Dr. Murray made a few remarks on behalf of his brethren, and we were all +invited to a _soirée_ at the assembly-rooms in the evening. Perhaps two +hundred and fifty ladies and gentlemen were present. Several addresses +and prayers were made. I was announced for an address, but came late on +the list; and having no fancy to be translated by a man at my elbow, I +quietly withdrew at the fitting time. I was much pleased with Professor +Gaussen, who is a very accomplished gentleman. He looks about +forty-five, but told me he was very much older. + +The clergy present at this convocation were from various parts of France +and all the Swiss cantons, and I never saw a finer set of men in any +clerical assembly. Pastor Malan is exceedingly venerable in his +appearance. He is about sixty-eight years of age, his hair gray, and +worn long in the neck, with a good deal of curl to it. His gait is +quick, and he has much the manner of the venerable Dr. Beecher. This +patriarch of Geneva is very cheerful, knows every one, and has a word +for every one. He told me that he loved Americans, but that they had +spoiled his habitation by stealing two of his daughters, who, he +explained to me, were married to excellent clergymen in the United +States. + +We met with great kindness in this city from Mr. Delorme, a gentleman +who once resided in New York. He invited us to accompany his family on +an excursion to the summit of the Salève, a mountain in Savoy, which is +three thousand one hundred and fifty feet above the lake. We went in two +carriages, and stopped at a village on the mountain side, where we had +cakes, coffee, and wine. Here, in a sweet little arbor, surrounded with +roses, we gazed at Mont Blanc, and on a near summit could very clearly +trace the profile of Napoleon. He looks "like a warrior taking his +sleep." The illusion surpasses in accuracy of expression any thing that +I know of that is similar; there are chin, nose, eye, and the old cocked +hat, while the eternal vapor over the summit of the peak forms the +feather. + +We looked down in a ravine and saw the Aar with its icy stream. The +carriages went round to meet the party, and the ascent was made. The +mountain seems to hang over Geneva, though several miles off. We were +greatly pleased with a few good houses, in fine positions; but Savoy is +not Switzerland. Here Popery is rampant and pauperism evident. Beggars +beset our carriages, and the people looked squalid. + +[Illustration: Swiss Cottage.] + +I forgot to tell you how much we were pleased with the cottages in +Switzerland; they are quite cheerful looking,--some very fine +affairs,--but many are not very unlike our western log-houses. + +We returned to Geneva at about ten, and found at our friend's house a +most sumptuous repast provided for our entertainment. I never sat down +at a more elegant supper table. Every luxury seemed placed before us, +including the richest wines of the Rhine. + +The Roman salad, a peculiar kind of lettuce, which we saw in France, and +here again, seemed to us all as quite different from our ordinary kinds; +and I have at Genera obtained four or five varieties of the seed for +home cultivation. + +While at this city we procured some good specimens of wooden ware, Swiss +cottages, &c., and the boys bought watches, jewelry, &c., for presents. + +We were all delighted with a little island in the centre of a bridge +which goes across the lake; it was a favorite retreat of Rousseau, and +there is a statue to his memory. + +Calvin's residence is still to be seen, No. 116 Rue des Chanoins. We saw +the place where Servetus was burnt. The place and prospect were too +beautiful for such a foul desecration. But Calvin's virtues were his +own, and the faults he fell into belonged to the influence of the age. +It was much so with those greatest and best of men, the New England +Pilgrim Fathers. I know they had faults, but they were only spots upon +the polished mirror. God reared them up, a rare race of men, for a rare +purpose; and I do not like to hear them abused because they were not +perfect. If Laud had come to Plymouth Rock instead of Brewster, Bonner +instead of Carver, what kind of a community would have been established +and handed down? + +In Geneva, too, we had the pleasure to meet a valued friend, Mr. B., +from Providence, who has been travelling extensively, and gathering up +the treasures of other cities to enrich the one of his birth. + +To-morrow we are off for Paris, and go by diligence to Dijon; thence by +railroad. + + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 47. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We started from Geneva in the diligence for Dijon, a long drag of one +hundred and twenty miles. The weather was oppressively hot, and +certainly the roads could not well be more dusty. We had two very +gentlemanly companions, Swiss, who were going to London to visit the +exhibition. We entered France about four miles on our way, and came to +Ferney, where Voltaire so long resided. We passed Gex, and ascended the +Jura; then to La Vattay. The view from the mountain of the lake and Mont +Blanc, together with the Alpine range, is never to be forgotten by one +who has the good fortune to see it. I feel that I am acquiring new +emotions and gathering up new sources of thought in this journey, and +that I cannot be a trifler and waster away of life in such a world as +that I live in. I find in every place so much to read about, and study +over, and think upon, that I now feel as if life itself would not be +long enough to do all I should like to effect. One thing is certain, +Charley; I cannot be indolent without feeling that, with the motives and +stimulus of this tour pressing upon me, I shall be very guilty. + +The scenery of this journey has set me thinking; and so I have written +rather sentimentally, but truly. + +At St. Laurent we came to the French custom-house, and a pretty thorough +overhauling they made. I believe the fellows hooked some of our +engravings, which they carried out of the room. + +Still up, till we reached Morez, the Jura's greatest elevation. The last +half was travelled in the night; so I cannot give you the line of march. +We got to Dijon about eight in the morning, and only had time to get a +hasty breakfast at the railroad station; but we had quite a look at the +city before entering the cars for Paris. + +Dijon is the capital town of the old Burgundy, and is a fine old place, +with nearly thirty thousand inhabitants. Here is a great show of +churches, and they seem built for all ages. The Cathedral is a +noble-looking edifice. We had no time to see the old ducal palace, which +has so many historical events connected with it. We saw some beautiful +promenades, but only glanced at them. Bossuet was born here, and St. +Bernard only a mile outside the walls, in a castle yet standing. + +The new railroad had just been opened to Paris, and is one hundred and +ninety-six miles and a half of most capital track. We went through +Verrey, Montbard, Nuits, Tonnerre, La Roche, Joigny, Sens, Montereau, +Fontainebleau, Melun, to Paris. Montbard gave birth to Buffon, the +naturalist. Nuits is famous for the vintage of its own name, Romanée, +and other choice wines of Burgundy. Near Tonnerre is the château of +Coligny d'Audelot, brother to the admiral massacred on St. Bartholomew's +night. Sens is famous for its Cathedral, which is apparently very +splendid; and here are the vestments of Thomas à Becket, and the very +altar at which he knelt, all of which I wanted to see. Fontainebleau is +beautifully placed in the midst of a forest. Here is a palace, and at +this place Napoleon bade farewell to the Old Guard, in 1814. This place +is celebrated for its grapes, raised in the vicinity. Melun was known +in Cæsar's time, and in 1520 was taken by Henry V., of England, and held +ten years. We reached Paris on the evening of Saturday, and again +occupied our old quarters at the Hotel Windsor. I went off to my +favorite bathing-house at the Seine, and felt wondrously refreshed after +the heat and dust of more than three hundred miles and two days' +journeying. + +Yours affectionately, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 48. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We have again arrived at this charming city, and hope to pass a few +pleasant days, which will be chiefly devoted to purchases of clothing +and some of the beautiful articles which are so abundant in the shops of +this metropolis. Besides, we have some few places to visit before we +return to England. On Sabbath day we went to the Methodist Chapel, near +the Church of the Madeleine, and heard a capital sermon from Dr. +Ritchie, the president of the Canadian Conference. In the evening I +preached. The congregations were very good, and the preacher of the +chapel seems a very gentlemanly and pleasant man. In the congregation I +had the pleasure to meet with our eloquent countryman and my old +friend, the Rev. James Alexander, D.D., of New York, and I announced +that he would preach on Wednesday evening. We went into the Madeleine +and spent nearly an hour. The house is very splendid; but it does not +appear devotional, or likely to inspire suitable feelings. I prefer the +Gothic pile, or a plainer temple. It is all painting, gilding, flowers, +and form. Here Popery shows her hand, and outdoes every thing that she +dares yet show in New England. The music was exquisite, and the voices +of the boys very sweet. Many of the people seemed in earnest. The +priests appeared to me devoid of interest. We went one morning to the +Pantheon. This noble church was formerly known as St. Genevieve, and was +rebuilt, in 1764, by a lottery under the auspices of Louis XV. The +portico is an imitation of the one at Rome on its namesake, and consists +of Corinthian columns nearly sixty feet high, and five feet in diameter. +The interior form is that of a Greek cross. Every thing here is grand +and majestically simple. Above the centre of the cross rises a dome of +great beauty, with a lantern above. In this building are one hundred and +thirty columns. The church is three hundred and two feet by two hundred +and fifty-five. In this building are the tombs and monuments of some of +the great men of France. Voltaire, Rousseau, Mirabeau, and Marat were +here buried, but were taken up by the Bourbons, at the restoration. La +Grange and Lannes also rest here. Here we saw seven copies of the famous +frescoes of Angelo and Raphael, in the Vatican, and several pieces of +statuary. The vaults extend beneath the church to a great length. I +believe this is the highest spot in Paris. On leaving the place, I +looked again at the dome, which greatly pleased me. It is three hundred +feet above the floor of the church; and the painting, by Gros, is very +fine. I think we have seen nothing of the kind that is so beautiful. It +is principally historical; and among the figures are Clovis, Clotilda, +Charlemagne, St. Louis, Louis XVIII., and the Duchess d'Angoulême, with +the infant Duke of Bourdeaux; and above all these, as in heaven, are +Louis XVI., Marie Antoinette, Louis XVII., and Madame Elizabeth. + +We were all thankful enough to find that the Louvre is at last open. We +walked there, looking with interest at the Tuileries, which I cannot +help admiring, although some think it devoid of architectural merit. Its +wide-spread pavilions of one thousand feet, looming up with +time-darkened walls, always please me. The palace of the Louvre is an +older edifice than the Tuileries; the newer portion was the work of the +reign of Louis XIV. The quadrangle is very fine, and the proportions of +the entire building admirable. Our business was with that part called +the Musée Royal, and here are the paintings and statues which have +given such a renown to Paris. You must recollect, my dear fellow, that +we cannot tell you all about these pictures, for the gallery is nearly +one third of a mile in length, and each side is filled up with canvas, +and the rooms are lofty. There was a time when almost all that +continental Europe thought exquisite in art was to be found here. +Bonaparte levied contributions on all the capitals he conquered, and +here he deposited his ill-gotten spoils. Once were seen in this place +the great masterpieces of Raphael, Guido, Titian, Domenichino, Murillo, +Rubens, Rembrandt, Potter, and a host of other artists who created +beauty; but when right overcame might, these pictures were returned to +their original owners. The catalogue we bought was a volume of five +hundred pages, and was only of statuary; and what could we do but walk, +wonder, and admire? To examine would be a task and pleasure for three +months. The department of statuary is very large; and here we saw +surprising fragments of the Grecian and Roman schools. The paintings by +Rubens here are numerous, but by no means as fine as those we saw at +Antwerp and in the museums of Holland. All the great masters are here, +and their works are finely arranged. We saw some of Claude Lorraine's +that were beautiful; and some pictures that I missed, since I was here +in 1836, have been transferred, I learn, by Louis Philippe, to +Versailles and other palaces. The gallery has been thoroughly painted +and beautified; and I never saw a place more radiant with gilding and +frescoes. The ceilings are very gorgeous. + +We selected a fine day for an excursion to Versailles; and, that we +might have our pleasure consulted as to sight-seeing, we preferred a +private carriage to the railroad. Versailles is about twelve miles from +Paris, and has some twenty-five or thirty thousand inhabitants. Henry +IV. used to resort here for hunting. Louis XIII. had a lodge here for +his comfort when following the chase. Louis XIV. turned the lodge into a +palace, and began operations in 1664. In 1681, he removed with his court +to this place. The Chapel was begun in 1699, and finished in 1710. The +Theatre was inaugurated at the marriage of Louis XVI., in 1770. A new +wing was built by Louis XVIII. Louis Philippe made great additions, and +devoted the palace to the noble purpose of a national depot of all that +is glorious in the history of France. What Louis Philippe did here you +may imagine, when I tell you that on the restoration and improvement of +Versailles he expended fifteen millions of francs. Why, Charley, the +stables are like mansions, and fine ones, too. The grand court is three +hundred and eighty feet wide, and the Place d'Armes, which leads to it, +is eight hundred feet wide. The iron railings which divide these are +very richly gilt. On either side the court are ranges of buildings +intended for the ministers of the king; and here are sixteen colossal +marble statues, which I well remember, at the Pont de la Concorde, in +Paris. They are great names of old and modern renown. In the centre of +the court is a colossal equestrian statue of Louis XIV. Now comes +another court devoted to royalty; and north and south are wings and +pavilions, one built by Louis XV., and the other by Louis Philippe. Next +we see the Cour de Marbre, around which is the old palace of Louis +XIII., crowned with balustrades, vases, trophies, and statues. South of +the Cour Royale is a small court called Cour des Princes, and divides +the wing built by Louis XVIII. from the main body of the southern wing. +The Grand Commun is a vast square edifice, enclosing a court. It has one +thousand rooms; and when Louis XIV. lived here, three thousand people +lodged: in this building. The chapel is exceedingly beautiful. It is in +Corinthian style, and is one hundred and forty-eight feet by +seventy-five, and ninety feet high. The front of the palace is +magnificent in the highest degree. "It presents a large projecting mass +of building, with two immense wings, and consists of a ground floor, +first floor of the Ionic style, and attic. The wings exceed five hundred +feet in length. The central front is three hundred and twenty feet +long, and each of its retiring sides two hundred and sixty feet. The +number of windows and doors _of this front_ are three hundred and +seventy-five." To describe the paintings and statuary would require a +volume. Let me say that here on the walls is all the history of France +that conduces to her glory. Every battle by land or sea, that she ever +won, is here; but not an allusion to her defeats. I looked hard for +Agincourt and Cressy; to say nothing of later conflicts, but they were +not to be seen. Some of these pictures have great merit, while others +are coarsely designed and executed. The historical series begins with +the Baptism of Clovis, in 495, and comes down to the present period, +with the illustration of about eleven hundred subjects. Then there are +about one hundred views of royal palaces, and series as follows: +Portraits of the kings of France, of French admirals, of constables of +France, and of marshals of France, to the number of some two hundred and +fifty; of French warriors, of personages who became celebrated in +different ways, which amount to nearly eighteen hundred; and here we +found several Americans. We noticed the likeness of Mr. Webster, by +Healy; but the canvas is too small, and the picture has faded. It is not +equal to the noble painting by Harding, which we saw just before we left +home. These last portraits afforded us a great treat; and here we saw +fine likenesses of the great ones of the earth. All the old pictures +have dates of death, and many of birth. The sculpture gallery is very +rich. There are more than six hundred figures, some of them exceedingly +expressive and beautiful. I should think that more than two hundred and +fifty of the historical paintings relate to events and persons connected +with the power of Napoleon. + +A very conspicuous feature is the series illustrating the conquest of +Algiers. These are four in number, and are immense as to size--I should +think thirty or forty feet in length. They are by Horace Vernet, and are +very effective. The apartments of the palace are perfectly regal. They +quite come up to one's preconceived ideas of the days of Louis le Grand. +I looked with interest at the door through which Marie Antoinette made +her escape, and whence she was dragged by the mob. The chamber of Louis +XIV. is just as it was in his time. Here the grand monarch died upon +that bed. There is the balustrade which fenced off the bed of majesty. +The ceiling of this room has the noblest painting in France. It is Jove +launching his bolts against the Titans, and was done by Paul Veronese. +Napoleon brought it from Venice. There seemed no end to the apartments. +We saw those of Madame Maintenon, the royal confessional, and the +dining-room of Louis XIV., which was the cabinet of Louis XVI. In this +room Louis XIV. entertained Molière when he had been ill treated or +neglected by his ministers and courtiers. "I am told that the officers +of my household do not find that you were made to eat with them. Sit +down at this table, and let them serve us up breakfast." This was his +language to the great poet, when he had called him to his presence. The +king then helped him to a fowl's wing, and treated him in the most +gracious manner. He knew the worth of genius. The king could make a +marshal, but he could not make a poet. All the innumerable rooms have +beautiful paintings and works of art. One room, called the Saloon of the +Crusades, was delightfully interesting; and the great pictures of that +apartment did much to impress the events of the holy wars upon our +minds. + +George was in ecstasies with the _souvenirs_ of his idol the emperor; +and as we shall leave him for five or six months in Paris, I expect +that, in addition to the vast amount of knowledge which he really +possesses of the history of Napoleon, he will return home posted up with +all the _on dits_ of the worshippers of the emperor. + +The Theatre is very fine. It is quite large, and would be admired in any +capital. It was built by Louis XV., at the instance of Madame Pompadour. +It was Used by Louis Philippe, and we saw his seat. + +The gardens are world renowned; so we _must_ admire them. They did not +quite come up to my notions. The fountains, statuary, ponds, +orange-trees, are all very grand; but I cannot say that I was as pleased +as the boys were. Perhaps I was weary; I know I was anxious. I had an +old and valued friend living in Versailles, and was unable to ascertain +her residence. + +We went to the Grand and Petit Trianon. The great Trianon is a palace +with one story, and having two wings. The little Trianon has two +stories. Here royalty has loved to loiter when tired of the splendors of +the stupendous palace close by. Here are some exquisite paintings, +brought by Louis Philippe from the Louvre. + +We repaired to a good _café_ close by the palace, had a satisfactory +dinner with Mr. Hodgson and his family, and then took our carriage for +Paris. + +Our route to Versailles was through Passy, where our Dr. Franklin lived +in 1788, at No. 40 Rue Bass. Beranger resides in this village. It seems +a favorite resort for genius; for here have resided the Chancellor +D'Aguesseau, Boileau, Molière, and Condorcet. + +We passed through Sèvres, where the beautiful china is manufactured, and +drove through the Park of St. Cloud, the palace being in sight. + +On our return, we drove leisurely through the Bois de Boulogne. These +woods afford a fine opportunity to the Parisians for exercise, either on +horseback or in carriages, and it is to Paris what Hyde Park is to +London and the avenues are to New York, and much pleasanter than either. +Here have been fought most of the duels which, in other days, have been +so numerous in Paris, but which, I am glad to say, are getting into +disrepute. The boys will write you before we leave Paris. + +Yours always, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 49. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Our stay here at our present visit will be several days longer than we +expected. We have to get clothing and various articles which can be +obtained here to more advantage than in England or at home. We have been +to some large jewelry establishments and made selections of presents for +our absent but remembered friends. One morning we spent very pleasantly +at a celebrated depot of glass manufactures. The display was very large, +and also brilliant, and we made some pretty selections. The taste of the +French is very great, and a large part of this population must live by +furnishing the rest of the world with mere matters of _bijouterie_. + +We have had the pleasure to meet several of the doctor's acquaintances +from America; and among others whom we have often met have been Rev. Dr. +Alexander, Rev. Dr. Ritchie, Hon. H.J. Raymond, Mr. G.P. Putnam, Mr. +Bunting, Mr. Herring, Mr. Howard, &c. I have been much gratified in +getting acquainted with Mr. Raymond, whom I have met several times. He +is quite a young-looking man for one who holds his important position of +speaker of the New York House of Assembly. I should not think him to be +more than twenty-six or twenty-seven, though perhaps he is thirty. Mr. +Putnam is the author of my favorite book, "The World's Progress,"--the +book of dates,--and one which I recommend you, Charley, always to keep +on your table, within reach, for reference. + +If I live to return home, I have much to do that never before appeared +to me of so great importance. I want to become thoroughly conversant +with English and French history; for, in a certain sense, these +countries embody the history of the world. Not to know what happened +before we were born, is always to be children; and if my journey has +done me no other good, it has very clearly shown me how little I know, +and how very much I ought to understand, and must, if I would take my +place among intelligent, well-educated men. I am sure, too, that I have +acquired on this journey a desire to make improvement. Every where I +find the records of intellect and genius, and I cannot, for very shame, +be willing to go through life and enjoy the means of improvement, +without deriving profit. We have met with very kind attentions from Mr. +Hector Bossange, the great bookseller, who invited us to dinner. He is a +gentleman of great activity, and seems always engaged; and yet I have +noticed that such persons seem to have time for every one and every +thing. I have noticed this at home, as well as abroad. Some of these men +who have so much to do, and so many persons to see and be polite to, +must work very hard at times, or else they understand the way to get +through business in a patent method. These busy men seem to have read +every thing; and even in new books they keep up with the times. They +must do it, I guess, by remembering our old copy, that "spare minutes +are the golden sands of life." + +George is going to stay here for four or five months, and the doctor is +busy in finding him a suitable home and getting him an outfit. + +You would perhaps like to hear a little about the Hospital des +Invalides, where the old soldiers of France bring up when past labor. It +is a vast building, and covers sixteen acres, which, however, enclose +fifteen various courts. It is governed and managed by the senior marshal +of France, a lieutenant general, commandant of the hotel, a colonel +major, three adjutant majors, three sub-adjutant majors, one almoner, +two chaplains, one apothecary and ten assistants, twenty-six sisters of +charity, and two hundred and sixty servants. There are about one hundred +and seventy officers, and about three thousand fire hundred invalids in +all. This is a truly magnificent building, both architecturally +considered and in its interior arrangements. The council chamber is very +fine, and here are some admirable portraits and the best statue of +Napoleon that is extant. The dome is very grand, but is at present +invisible, on account of the alterations going on to complete the tomb +of Napoleon. This will be the grandest tomb, probably, in the world. The +sarcophagus is to rest on a platform, to which the access is by steps of +green marble. + +[Illustration: Sarcophagus at Napoleon's Tomb, and Key] + +Here is a good library and some MSS. of the two prime ministers, Sully +and Colbert; a good picture of Napoleon and Louis Philippe; the cannon +ball which killed Marshal Turenne, and his equestrian statue in gold and +silver. + +My favorite stroll here is in the Garden of the Tuileries. I am never +weary of this place. Here are the finest flowers, the best walks, the +gayest company, the prettiest children, and the densest shade, if you +please to go into it, in Paris. Then, too, there are groups of statuary, +and fountains with lofty jet, and proud swans in the reservoirs. I +would like to have you walking in that thick forest growth; there is no +underbrush; I can see from one side to the other. After a long walk, you +come to the noble portals, guarded by lions couchant, and just beyond is +the spot where Louis XVI. was guillotined. I do not believe there is a +nobler view in Europe than now opens to the spectator. There before me +is the Obelisk of Luxor, which was brought from Egypt, and now stands in +the Place de la Concorde, its history, its removal, its present +position, all serve to delight me. In itself it is a noble object, and +my eye ever rests on it with pleasure. + +Just think, Charley, that you are at my side: turn round, and look at +the gardens we have left. There, see the long, low Tuileries, the palace +of the Bourbons, the home of Napoleon, the residence of the citizen +king, and now the Palace National. Off to the right is the Seine and its +long line of quays; here is the bridge; and just across it is the +Chamber of the Assembly, with twelve Corinthian columns, I like this +building exceedingly. To our left is a long, stately range, known as the +Rue Rivoli, in which we reside; it has an arched arcade in front; for +foot passengers, and some hundreds of columns to support and adorn it. +At this end of it are public offices. Now turn and look at our left; and +see, a street cuts through this noble row, and at its end you see the +pride of the city, the Madeleine. There it is, all white, and its +stately columns tell of Greece. Now, if you turn your back upon the +Tuileries, you will gaze upon the open space of the Champs Elysées, and +look down along through that splendid avenue, and there see the finest +thing in France--Bonaparte's triumphal arch. One word about this arch. +It is the work of the emperor, who ordered its erection in 1806, when +the foundation was laid. In 1814 it was suspended, but in 1823 it was +resumed in honor of the Duke d'Angoulême's victories in Spain. In 1830 +its original intention was adopted, and in 1836 it was completed, and +its cost was nearly eleven millions of francs. It is a vast arch, ninety +feet high and forty-five feet wide, with entablature and attic. Its +total height is one hundred and fifty-two feet, breadth one hundred and +thirty-seven feet, depth sixty-eight feet. On the fronts are colossal +groups, in which the figures are eighteen feet. All these are +historical, and tell of the great man in his fields of glory. You ascend +this wonderful work of art by two hundred and sixty steps, and get the +best view of Paris. Close by is the Hippodrome, of which some of us have +told you, I suppose, during our last visit. + +At less than a mile from this place is the Chapel of St. Ferdinand, +built on the spot where the Duke of Orleans died, by a fall from his +carriage, in 1842. It is a small building of stone, fifty feet long, and +is of Gothic style. Here are many interesting objects--the marble group +descriptive of the dying prince, and at his head an angel in +supplication; this angel was the sculpture of his sister, the Princess +Marie. The painted windows are exquisite representations of the patron +saints of the royal family. Behind the altar is the room in which the +duke died, now used as the sacristy of the chapel. Here, too, is a +picture of the death bed. I am glad that I saw this, as the rest of the +party were not able to be there. + +The great National Library is in the Rue Vivienne. The building is a +dark-looking affair, five hundred and forty feet long and one hundred +and thirty feet wide. Inside is a court three hundred feet by ninety, +and that is flanked with buildings. The library is in five sections: +first, manuscripts; second, printed books; third, engravings; fourth; +medals, &c.; fifth, marbles. Perhaps the best collection of early +printing that Europe can show is in this place. You will be surprised +when I tell you that there are here one million five hundred thousand +works. I cannot attempt to tell you the curiosities that are to be seen +here--gems, cameos, antiques, swords, armors, models, portraits, busts; +and then, as for autographs, why, a collector could not fail to break +the tenth commandment when he looked at the letters of this collection +in glass cases. The engravings alone are a study for months. + +I have to see my tailor, Mr. Woodman, who is a capital one; and then I +must go to Forr, the boot-maker, of whom let me tell you a story. The +doctor went to be measured, when we first arrived, and the man told him +it was not necessary, as he had his measure. "How so?" he inquired. +"Why, sir," replied the man, "I remember you fifteen years ago, at the +Hotel Windsor;" and taking down his book, showed him his name, number of +his room, &c. This I think a pretty considerable proof of memory, and +equal to what we are told of some of our American landlords, who are +said never to forget a face. + +These engagements discharged, and I am ready to pack up. We all feel sad +at leaving George, who has been a kind and amiable companion; but we +hope soon to see him again. + +Let me tell you that we are to have a new teacher. Dr. C. has engaged M. +Oudin, a graduate of the University of Paris, to return with us. This +gentleman is married; and we are all pleased with him and expect, of +course, to profit under his instructions. + +M. Oudin has taken us to see a very curious manufactory of fruits, +fishes, &c. They certainly are lifelike. Then, too, there is a branch +of this establishment devoted to the preparation of medical +representations of disease, and the skill exhibited is very great. Our +next letter will, I fancy, be from Old England. I feel sad at leaving +France, for I do like her capital; and then I cannot help a fear that +she has dark days not very far off. She talks of liberty at all her +corners, but she seems to have none in her conduct of the daily press. +There are too many soldiers here to please an American. At home we have +all the blessings of government, and do not see the machinery. We have +no soldiers to keep us moving along. I shall always think with pleasure +of our month in this city; and if I ever come again, I have work chalked +out for three months, at least. + +Yours affectionately, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 50. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We had a pleasant time from Paris to Calais; and here we determined to +pass a day, and look at a city which has been so celebrated both in the +history of France and England. We put up at Quillac's. The population is +about thirteen thousand. The town is strongly fortified, and has very +few external attractions. The gate built by Richelieu in 1685, and +delineated by Hogarth, still stands. You know that England held this +town from 1347 to 1558; and, as a result, you can find several specimens +of English Tudor architecture, especially the Hotel de Guise. The walks +upon the fortifications are fine, and afford commanding views of the +cliffs of the south coast of England. The place generally has some three +or four thousand English, many of whom are refugees on account of debt. +At eleven at night we went on board a French steamer for Dover; and the +_instant_ that she got outside the pier, she jumped like a mad thing. O, +Charley, that was a horrid night! We were all sick, very sick indeed. It +took us about three hours to get over, and we were thankful to land and +take refuge for three or four hours in the quiet of our bedrooms. At +eight we took the cars for London, and were at the Golden Cross, quietly +settled down in our old quarters, by twelve o'clock. I ought to tell you +that we hurried over in order to be here at the great entertainment +which Mr. George Peabody gives to his excellency Abbott Lawrence and his +lady, on the evening of the 4th of July. We were invited, and felt +anxious to be there; as, in addition to the other notable characters, +"the duke" was to be present. All that day the subject of the evening +was the great topic with Americans; and as more than nine hundred +acceptances were received to invitations issued, it was expected that +the party would be interesting, and that many, who failed to obtain +tickets, would be disappointed. The entertainment was given at Almack's, +Willis's Room, St. James's, and upon a scale of great magnificence. It +consisted of a concert at half past nine, a ball at eleven, and supper +at one. The idea of celebrating our national independence in London, +under the peculiar circumstances which London presents at this moment, +was a happy one; and though some wise men doubted the wisdom of the +measure, yet the result proved the prudence and practical good sense of +its originator; and perhaps few men possess more of this admirable +quality than Mr. Peabody. The rooms at Almack's are very spacious, so +that there was ample space for the one thousand who proved to be +present. At one end of the room were seen the portraits of the queen and +Washington, surrounded by the flags of England and the United States; +and around were placed busts of her majesty, Washington, Prince Albert, +Franklin, Webster, and other celebrated men of both countries. Each lady +was presented, on her entrance, with a fine bouquet. At half past nine +the seats for the concert were entirely filled. The _programme de +concert_ was as follows:-- + + CONDUCTOR, SIGNOR ALARY. + + PARTE PRIMA. + + GLEE, Messrs. Lee, Geuge, Hill, Smith, and Howe. + + DUO, "Al perigli." {Signor Gardoni, } + {Signor F. Lablache,} _Donizetti_. + + SOLO, Violin. Signor Sivori, _Sivori_. + + MELODIE, "Jusqu'a toi." Signor Gardoni _Schubert_. + + ARIA, "Non più audrai." Signor Lablache, _Mozart_. + + ROMANCE, "Ah, mon fils." Miss C. Hayes, _Meyerbeer_. + + DUO, "Ah t inebria nell' {Ma'mselle Cruvelli,} + amplesso." {Signor Gardoni, } _Verdi_. + + + PARTE SECUNDA. + + TRIO, "Qual volutta." {Miss Hayes, } + {Signor Gardoni, } + {Signor Lablache,} _Verdi_. + + ARIA, "Nel dolce incanto." Mademoiselle Cruveli _De Beriot_. + + SOLO, Violin. Signor Sivori, _Sivori_. + + SERENADE, "Qual Suon." {Miss C. Hayes, } + {Signor Gardoni,} _Alary_. + + DUO, "Un Segreta." {Signor Lablache,} + {F. Lablache,} _Rossini_. + + TRIO, "Zitti, Zitti." {Miss C. Hayes, } + {Signor Gardoni, } + {Signor Lablache,} _Rossini_. + + PIANO FORTE, Signor Alary. + +The glees and madrigals were by the first-named artists; and the pieces +were, "Spring's Delight," "Come, let us join the Roundelay," "Foresters +sound the cheerful Horn," and "The Winds whistle cold." + +The band for the ball was Coote & Tinney's. The concert was very fine. I +was most pleased with Miss Hayes,--and next with Lablache, whose voice +is the finest I ever heard. The duke came just at the close of the +concert, as the seats were being removed for the dancing. Mr. Peabody +met him in the reception-room, and led him to the upper end of the +ball-room, where he was cordially greeted by Mr. and Mrs. Lawrence. The +band struck up, "See, the conquering hero comes," and I really felt that +such a reception to such a man, and under such circumstances, was +something for an American boy to see; and, if I live thirty or forty +years, it will be something to tell about. There were but few +comparatively who danced. The company were in groups, in the different +rooms, taking refreshments. At one, supper was announced on the ground +floor of the house; and here the press was felt to be greater than up +stairs. The tables were most gorgeously laid out with every delicacy +that unlimited outlay of expense could secure. Perhaps you would like to +know some of the company who were present, belonging to England, and who +certainly were present for the first time to celebrate the anniversary +of American independence. There were the Duke of Wellington, Marquises +of Ely and Clanricarde, Lord Glenelg, Lord Charles Manners, Lord Charles +Russell, Lord Mayor of London and Lady Mayoress, Viscount Canning, Lord +and Lady Dormer, Lord Hill, Lord Stuart, Baron and Lady Alderson, the +Chancellor of the Exchequer, and Lady Mary Wood; Mr. Justice and Lady +Coleridge, the Governor of the Bank of England, Joseph Hume, M.P., and +family, Lady Morgan, Miss Burdett Coutts, Admiral Watkins, the Countess +of Eglinton, Countess Powlett, Lady Talbot Mala hide, and a very long +_et cetera_. Mr. Peabody could not have served his country better than +by affording an opportunity for the great and distinguished of England +to meet a large party of his countrymen on an occasion dear to +Americans, and especially dear when they are far away from their +country, and feel that, under the broad flag of the stars and stripes +they are every where as safe as if they were in New York or Boston. It +was very clear that hostile feeling had ceased, and that the great +Anglo-Saxon family can now meet any where and display the brotherhood +which they ought ever to feel. Such a meeting could not have taken place +twenty years ago; and perhaps this beautiful demonstration would never +have been afforded, if the thought had not presented itself to our host, +who had the means to carry out the idea with a nobleness that did honor +to himself and his country. We left the rooms on a bright, starlight +morning, just as day was opening her eye, and were soon comfortably +housed at our pleasant home. I write in haste, for we have much to do +before we leave London. + +Yours affectionately, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 51. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We have had one of the most agreeable days that I have spent in England. +We received a kind invitation from his excellency Baron Vanderweyer, the +Belgian minister, to attend a party given by his lady to the young +nobility. The invitations were for five o'clock. We found the finest +collection of children and young people, from about four years old up to +sixteen, that I ever saw gathered together. I should think there were +two hundred and fifty. More beautiful children cannot probably be found; +and they were dressed in fine taste, and some very richly. One little +fellow, about six years old, was, I think, the noblest-looking boy my +eyes ever rested upon. Dr. C. inquired of two or three persons whom he +knew, who the lad was; and just then an elegant and fashionable-looking +lady expressed how much she felt flattered by the kind things said of +the little fellow, and told him that it was her son, the eldest son of +the Marquis of O----d, and then called him out of the dance, and +introduced the little Lord Ossory to him. Among the illustrious +juveniles was the future Duke of Wellington, and grandson of the Iron +Duke. He is now about four or five years old. I think the sight was one +of the prettiest I ever had the pleasure to witness. A few of the +parents and older friends of the children were present; and in the +company was Mr. Bates, whose kindness to us has been very great. + +One evening this week Dr. Choules preached at Craven Chapel, near Regent +Street, where he had been requested to speak about America, and he took +up Education--the voluntary principle--and Slavery. On the last topic he +gave some truths that were probably very unpalatable. He stated that the +good people here knew next to nothing of the subject; that its treatment +amongst us could not be suffered by strangers; and that all interference +with it by this nation was as impolitic, and in as bad taste, as it +would be for an American to visit England and commence a crusade against +the expenditures of the royal household, as a crying sin, while there +was misery among the masses in many parts of the kingdom. He spoke of +the extreme prejudice which he had met upon the subject, and the +rudeness's into which he had found men fall, who seemed to have +forgotten every courtesy of life. He gave them many facts, which, though +perfectly correct, yet he said he supposed would be interpreted as a +special plea on behalf of slavery--although nothing could be more +untrue. The prejudice existing here is amusing. They seem to take it for +granted that every American raises cotton, sugar, and tobacco, and, +therefore, is a slaveholder. However, I find most persons of candor +ready to acknowledge that it is questionable whether any good can +possibly result from sending English agents to agitate the slavery +question in the United States. + +There are a great many things which we have seen in London that are less +worthy of note than those we have written you about, and yet in +themselves are very useful and interesting; and we hope the remembrance +of them will be of service to us hereafter. I have been much struck with +the prevalence of the same names in the streets as those which are so +familiar to me on our signs and boards. We have most clearly a common +origin, and there are no two nations in the world between whom there is +of necessity so much sympathy on all great questions. + +We have visited the exhibition several times since our return, with +fresh pleasure on every occasion. In point of show and splendor, we are +doing little in competition with the English, French and Belgian +exhibitors; but we have a wonderful deal here that proves Jonathan to be +a smart chap at invention, and no slouch at labor-saving operations. We +cannot afford to spend the labor of freemen, who own their houses and +farms and gardens, upon single pieces of furniture that would take six +months to complete. Our time is too valuable for this. The pauper labor +of Europe will, I hope, long continue to be cheaper, than the toil of +American mechanics. I do not want to see a man working for thirty cents +a day. The people of England must laugh in their sleeves when they see +every steamer bringing out our specie from America, and when they see us +sacrificing our true interests to aid the destructive policy of free +trade. I have never thought so much about the tariff as since I have +been here, and I am now convinced that we ought to give suitable +encouragement to all kinds of manufactures in our country, and so afford +a regular market for the products of the agriculturist. The English +agents that flood our country are placing the land under a constant +drain; and our specie must go abroad, instead of circulating at home. It +is only in times of great scarcity that England will want much of our +wheat or corn; and the English very freely avow that they hope to be +able, ere long, to get their cotton from the East. It seems to me that +our Southern States will need their New England constant market, and +that our true policy is to take care of ourselves. Certainly there is a +great variety of opinion here about free trade, and I hear gentlemen +debate strongly against it. The reciprocity of England is a queer thing. +All this yarn, Charley, grows naturally out of my starting-point about +the exhibition. + +We go to-night to Bristol, to visit our kind friends once more; thence +we run into South Wales, and afterwards set our faces homeward. + +Yours, &c., + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 52. + + +BRISTOL + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We have been here with the doctor's friends for several days, and had a +most delightful time. Nothing can be more kind than their attentions to +us; and the young men--I wish you knew them--have been constantly doing +every thing in their power to make our visit here agreeable. + +We were glad to find Mr. W---- recovering from his accident; and as the +family were at Western Super Mare, a watering-place about seven miles +off, for his health, we went and passed a couple of days with them. This +place is on the banks of the Bristol Channel; the air is thought to be +the finest on the western coast of England, and is, we thought, very +much like our Newport air. When the tide is in the scenery is pretty, +and the Welsh hills; at sunset are beautiful. Off in the Bristol Channel +are two islands, called the Flat and Steep Holmes. + +The houses here are neat, and the best are lodging-houses. Some of the +rows are very pretty, and are sufficiently cosy to accommodate small +families. + +The true way to enjoy the seaside is to have your own snug quarters. +Here the people are wise enough to build close to the sea, and rows of +houses are found all round the bay. + +We had a charming ride to a lofty hill, about two miles off, and the +prospect was very fine. + +Here, as on the continent, we found large numbers of donkeys, with +drivers, and ladies use them in their little excursions; and many of +them are attached to Bath chairs, a small gig, and a very comfortable +conveyance, too, as we proved. The vehicle is made for one person. + +I cannot say much for the bathing, which is greatly admired here, but +was far too muddy for our taste, after an acquaintance with the noble +beach at home. + +The museum of the Baptist College in Bristol is very fine, and the +library is large and one of great value. The collection of Bibles is the +best in the kingdom, and here is the only copy of Tindal's New +Testament. The miniature of Oliver Cromwell, by Cooper, is valuable, and +has been often engraved. + +We have several times attended worship at a very beautiful Gothic chapel +at Bristol, called Highbury Chapel. It is a perfect gem, built in the +Gothic style of the fifteenth century. The edifice is of stone, the +roof and wood-work of oak, the pulpit freestone, and over it is a fine +painted window. It is one of the prettiest churches we have seen in +England; and what gives great interest to the building is the fact that +it stands upon the spot where five martyrs were burnt, in the days of +Popery, when Queen Mary was on the throne. This burning of Protestants +only happens when Catholics have power; they do not advocate the measure +in America, although their boast is that their system knows no change. +Inquisitions and martyrs' fires are the adult growth of Popery. If I +wanted to know how liberal institutions worked, I would look at them +where they were established and flourished without hinderance; and if I +wanted to know what Popery is, I would go and look at it in its proper +territories--Spain, Italy, and Austria. There Popery is intolerant. In +France the wings of Romanism are clipped; and if the patronage of the +state were withdrawn, as very likely it may before long, the crumbling +edifice would fall. + +The Rev. Mr. Thomas, the pastor of Highbury Chapel, is a man of superior +intellect, and we heard a very fine sermon from him. + +I never was in a place where there are so many local charities as I find +at Bristol. Every ailment of man seems here to be provided with its +needed cure; and as for orphan asylums and refuges for the aged, blind, +strangers, &c., they are every where to be found. The Infirmary is a +noble institution, and always has two hundred patients in the wards; two +thousand were received last year, and eight thousand out-door cases +received treatment. A refuge for the houseless poor, opened in winter at +eight o'clock, and supported by subscription, has been very useful. I +think there are at least thirty different almshouses for the aged and +indigent of both sexes; and some of these places are as neat as any +thing can be, as to their accommodation. + +We like Bristol--its fine old houses, its streets, that tell so plainly +of other days, its beautiful environs, and its generous citizens. I wish +you could see the prospect from the drawing-room window at a house where +we have often visited, and always with pleasure. The house stands on a +very high hill; the drawing-room has a large bay window, and outside a +balcony. You look down into a charming garden, with fine trees and +fountains,--the ground being on a great declivity, I should think a +slope of fifty degrees,--and then from the balcony you have the entire +city laid out before you, down, down in the valley; while before you, +and on either hand, stretch away the hills which adorn this noble city. +The towers and steeples of the glorious old churches make the prospect, +of a fine, clear summer evening, one never to be forgotten. Go where I +may, that room, and the kind faces of those who meet in it will often +rise in memory. + +I have never had my feelings so enlisted by strangers as at Bristol; and +we all feel quite at home here. + +We are to go off to-morrow on an excursion to Monmouthshire, and see +Chepstow, Tintern Abbey, and Ragland Castle, and expect that this last +of our wanderings will be very gratifying. + +I have not told you how much we have enjoyed the fruit in England and on +the continent. Cherries and strawberries have been daily on our tables, +and of the best kinds. I do not think we ever enjoyed a fruit season so +much as this summer. In this humid climate the strawberry grows to an +immense size; and the gooseberry, which is here in high favor, is a far +finer fruit than with us. + +Yours affectionately, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 53. + + +BRISTOL. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Let me tell you of a charming trip which we have had this week to +Chepstow Castle and its neighborhood. We have told you all about the +beautiful scenery of Clifton, and the Hot Wells at this place, and the +fine old rooks. Well, now we took passage in a little steamer, and went +down the Avon between these lofty rocks, and had a new and enlarged view +of this wondrous formation. The boat was well filled with tourists, as +this is a fashionable trip. The Avon for four miles is quite Rhenish in +its aspect; and one or two old castled towers on its crags afford a sort +of reminiscence of what we lately saw on the river of rivers. + +We soon got out of the Avon into King Road, and there met the tide +setting strongly from the Severn--a large river, which divides +Monmouthshire from Gloucestershire. We then stretched across the +estuary, and were in the Wye--one of the most romantic rivers in the +country, the scenery of which will occupy much of this letter. + +After going up the river a little way, we saw a town upon the left bank +and a noble castle. This is Chepstow. It is finely ensconced in a +hollow. The town is irregular, and depends for its prosperity on its +commerce. The castle is really a noble ruin and crowns a high bluff +which rises from the river. I do not know how any one can ask for a +lovelier landscape than is opened to the view off the bridge which spans +the river. + +The castle was built by a relation of William the Conqueror. Its style +is Norman, with more modern additions. The tide rises here to an +elevation of from fifty to sixty feet. This is owing to rooks which +stretch into the Severn near the mouth of the Wye, and, by hindering the +tide, turn it into this small river. + +On landing, we engaged a carriage and pair of horses for the excursion, +and were soon off. We stopped for lunch at St. Arvan's, a village one +mile off, and a beautiful place it is--a perfect gem of a country +street. But the glorious scenery of the region calls off attention from +the modest hamlet. How I should like, as in my boyish days, to make +head-quarters here for a week, and then strike out for daily +explorations. + +We passed by the fine mansion at Piercefield, and devoted our time to +the glorious points of natural scenery on the banks of this most +charming stream--for Americans can hardly call it a river. We walked now +about two miles through an oak wood, in which is a sprinkling of ash and +elm, till we came to the very edge of a cliff called the "Lover's Leap." +It overhangs an awful abyss, the depth of which is softened down by the +woods which cover the neighboring rooks. A little off from this we came +to the famous Wynd Cliff. Its summit is fringed with wood, and covers +its declivities down to the river. To describe the scenery, my dear boy, +from this spot, is quite beyond my ability. I wish that Sir Walter Scott +had attempted it, and made this region the scene of one of his +beautiful creations. From this spot you see all the course of the Wye, +with its numerous sinuosities--in one place cutting out a few acres into +a horse-shoe peninsula. As the eye follows down the river, you gaze on +perpendicular, rocky cliffs, and can hardly persuade yourself that you +do not look at the immense fortifications of a town. But that peaceful +little peninsula at my feet; it is called Llanicut. Such a farm! such +elms! all forming a landscape unrivalled. But look beyond the Wye, and, +just away there, is the noble Severn. Ay, that is a river. There it +rolls and foams down through the rich county of Gloucestershire, and +empties into the Bristol Channel. Then away, beyond to the right are the +bold, swelling hills of Somersetshire. I cannot but wish that Claude had +seen the Wye and Severn; the noblest of his pictures would have been +illustrative of this region. + +When we had sufficiently delighted ourselves with the far-spread scene, +we descended by a winding path through the woods and down the almost +perpendicular rock. The road was a very zigzag. We came down three +hundred and sixty steps, and, passing a rustic bridge, entered a moss +cottage, the small windows of painted glass, the table the base of a +mighty oak, sawn off and polished. The walls are lined with moss. Here +we got refreshments, and talked of those who had been here with us on +former visits--some in America, others farther off; and yet perhaps +not; for we know not how, or where, some of our best friends exist; but +we know and feel that they do greatly live. + +In approaching Tintern, we passed the iron works, which at night throw a +solemn glow over the entire village. The cottages around are very humble +residences. The inn is a small but cosy affair, and is not destitute of +much real comfort. There is the abbey at the water side, and opposite +the rocky hill bank and hanging wood. The access to the abbey is poor, +but this is quite forgotten as you enter this glorious sanctuary of +other days. There are few ancient edifices in Great Britain, now in +ruins, which attract so much attention from the curious traveller as +Tintern Abbey, on the Wye. + +The beauty of the river is proverbial, yet has never been adequately +described; but the best idea of its diversified charms may be gathered +from "Gilpin's Picturesque Scenery and Observations upon the Wye." + +Tintern was a Cistercian abbey, and was founded in 1131, by Walter de +Clare, and dedicated to St. Mary on its completion in 1287. The dress of +the Cistercians was a white cassock, with a narrow scapulary, and over +that a black gown, when they went abroad, but a white one when they went +to church. They were called white monks, from the color of their habit. + +The dimensions of this church are as follows: length, two hundred and +twenty-eight feet, and the transept one hundred and fifty feet long; +breadth of the aisles, each eighteen feet. There are in the sides ten +arches; between each column fifteen feet, which is the span of the +arches. + +The interior of this monastery presents the best specimen of Gothic +architecture in England. The east window is a most magnificent affair, +sixty-four feet high, and calls forth universal admiration. The very +insignificant doorway was, no question, intended by the architect to +form a strong contrast with the elevation of the roof. The abbey is +cruciform; its ruins are perfect as to the grand outline; and I am sure +we should like to pass the entire day within this venerable fane. The +walls of the tower are seventy-two feet high, and covered with ivy, +moss, and lichens, but show no indications of decay. + +Very few Americans visit this region; but I think that they can see +nothing in England at all comparable to this ruin. + +Among the relics that are to be seen here is the effigy of a knight in +chain mail, the remains of a virgin and child, and the head of a shaven +friar. Here, too, are several monkish tombstones. + +We were obliged to resume our places in the carriage, and ride some +twelve miles, in order to visit the finest baronial ruins in the +kingdom. We reached the quiet little village of Ragland, and, putting +up our horses, gave orders for dinner, and then repaired to the castle, +which we found near by, crowning a slight eminence with its stately +towers. We approached through a grove of truly venerable oaks and elms, +and all at once we were at the warder's gate; and entering into the +terrace, formerly the eastern court, a most splendid vision burst upon +our sight. Here are three pentagonal towers, with machicolated +battlements, and showing all the marks of war. This is the most perfect +part of the ruin, and seems likely to stand for ages. The ivy clusters +over the towers most gracefully. Off to the left, insulated by a moat, +stands the remains of a tower, once the citadel. We advance through the +Gothic portal into the second court, and here are shafts and arches, and +grooves through which the portcullis used to present itself to the +besiegers. Next is the paved court, where once were the men at arms with +iron tread; now a velvet lawn is seen, and many a vigorous tree is +spreading its roots. Here we get a fine view of the majestic window of +the hall of state. Through an arch is the way to the kitchen. The +fireplace has a span of thirteen feet, and is made of two stones. Then +we come to the baron's hall, of noble dimensions. On the walls are the +stone sculptured arms of the Marquis of Worcester. The chapel was a +narrow room; and, nearly concealed by ivy, are two effigies. The +south-west tower contained the apartments occupied by Charles I. after +the battle of Naseby, in 1645. The grand terrace is in tolerable order, +and you proceed to it by a bridge. We ascended the towers and gazed on +majesty in ruins. We saw nothing on the continent finer than Ragland +Castle. The prospect from the great tower is the finest that can be +imagined, and I almost fear to tell you its extent. + +You may imagine that we felt unusually interested at this place, from +the fact that here the Marquis of Worcester invented the steam engine. + +The castle was devastated by the parliamentary troops under Fairfax, +having surrendered in 1646. The defence was gallant, but unavailing. + +The warder of the castle is a very gentlemanly man. He took us into his +apartments in one of the towers, and we found that he was a very +respectable amateur in painting. Some of his oil paintings were very +creditable. An infant girl, of great beauty, his daughter, answered to +the name of Blanche Castle May, and was the first-born child under that +roof since its desolation. + +Here, as well as at Tintern Abbey, I obtained ivy roots for Mr. Hall, +and hope to see them flourishing on the walls of his beautiful stone +house in Rhode Island. + +We retired slowly from this romantic ruin, and at the hotel found an +excellent dinner. One dish was fit for a king--sewen, young salmon, or a +species of salmon, for there is much dispute among naturalists as to the +identity of these fish. Any how, they are fine beyond any fish. They +were about two and a quarter pounds each, and are so delicate that they +do not well bear transportation. + +We returned to Chepstow that evening, having a fine ride through a new +piece of scenery, and were quite ready for a sound night's rest. In the +morning we looked at the castle in Chepstow, which is remarkably fine, +and is of extreme antiquity; some of the arches of the castle chapel +indicating clearly a Saxon origin. One of the priestly legends is that +this chapel was built by Longinus, a Jew, and father of the soldier who +pierced the side of Christ. This was the belief of the ancient +population of this charming region. + +All around this town Roman coins are frequently turned up; and I +obtained from a gentleman a very well-preserved Cæsar silver coin, dug +up a day or two before. + +This castle was for more than twenty years the prison home of Henry +Marten, one of the regicides. He is buried in the parish church, and in +the north transept is the following acrostical epitaph which he composed +for his monument:-- + + Here, September 9, 1680, + + was buried + + A TRUE-BORN ENGLISHMAN, + + Who in Berkshire was well known + To love his country's freedom 'bove his own; + But being immured full twenty year, + Had time to write, as doth appear. + + HIS EPITAPH. + + Here or elsewhere (all's one to you, to me) + Earth, air, or water gripes my ghostly dust + None know how soon to be by fire set free; + Reader, if you an old-tried rule will trust, + you will gladly do and suffer what you must. + + My time was spent in serving you, and you, + And death's my pay, it seems, and welcome, too; + Revenge destroying but itself, while I + To birds of prey leave my old cage, and fly; + Examples preach t' the eye; care then, (mine says,) + Not how you end, but how you spend your days. + +Colonel Henry Marten was one of the noble assertors of English liberty +who dared to oppose a weak, but cruel and capricious tyrant. If ever a +monarch was a tyrant and despot, it was the first Charles. No American +citizen who thinks that Patrick Henry, Samuel Adams, John Hancock, +Thomas Jefferson, John Adams, and George Washington were praiseworthy +for the resistance which they offered to the aggressions of George III., +can for one moment fail to reverence Eliot, Hampden, Marten, Whalley, +Ludlow, Pym, and Cromwell for their noble opposition to Charles and his +tormentor general, that incarnation of sanctimonious cruelty, Archbishop +Laud. It is one of the signs that a "good time is coming" that public +opinion in England, as well as in America, is fast setting in favor of +Cromwell and his noble coadjutors. They opposed measures rather than +men; and what proves that they were right in expelling the Stuarts from +power is the fact that when, by infatuation, "the fated race" was +restored, and again played over former pranks, the people had to oust +the family in 1688, and thus by another national verdict confirm the +wisdom and patriotism of the men who had formerly dared to teach a +tyrant the rights of freemen. Marten was a noble spirit, but his morals +were not as correct as those of his political associates. + +The game now played by the advocates of high church and state notions in +England and America is to represent the republican party as illiterate +and narrow minded. A viler falsehood was never sworn to at the Old +Bailey. The leading men of the party who opposed the royal tyrant were +scholars, and ripe ones. If any man doubts it, let him read their +speeches, peruse their lives, and study their writings. Prynne did not +lose his acquirements nor his brains when Charles and Laud cropped his +ears, and, loving the sport, came back for a second harvest, and +"grubbed out the stumps" remaining from the first operation. Read his +folios, quartoes, and octavoes, and from one of these men estimate the +others. If you want to know the real character of Cromwell and his +party, as to their knowledge and love of good letters, look at the +patronage which the government gave to learning. Owen was chancellor of +Oxford, Milton and Thurlow were secretaries, and their friends were +called into public life. Were these men barbarians and enemies to +learning? The men who were educated at Oxford and Cambridge at this +period were the ornaments of learning and religion for the next forty +years. The day has gone by forever when Cromwell's name can be used as +synonymous with fraud, ignorance, and hypocrisy. Kings and prelates may +hate him, but a liberty-loving world will enshrine his character in the +sanctuary of grateful hearts and faithful memories. + +After crossing the Severn at the old Passage, or Aust, where it is two +miles wide, we took carriage to Bristol. This parish of Aust gave a +church living to the immortal Wickliffe, who received the appointment +from Edward III. + +The drive to the city was a rich enjoyment. Every acre is in the highest +cultivation, and the charming villas of the merchant princes of Bristol +make the eleven miles an entire garden scene. + +Four miles from the city we came to Henbury, regarded by the citizens as +their finest suburban spot. It is indeed beautiful. There are here about +a dozen exquisite cottages, built in 1811, by Mr. Harford, who lives in +Blaize Castle. The founder's object was purely benevolent--to provide a +comfortable asylum for aged females, who had income enough to support +them, if only relieved from house rent. The forms of these cottages are +all different, but they were the earliest specimens in our times of the +adoption of the old Elizabethan style. They are perfect _bijoux_, and +the taste displayed in the shrubberies is very great. + +Blaize Castle is a fine building, and surrounded by noble woods. The +castle is a circle, flanked With three round towers. + +I ought not to omit that we had on this trip the pleasure of being +accompanied by a gentleman from Bristol, whose taste and perfect +knowledge of the ground afforded us much gratification. I allude, to Mr. +Dix, author of "Pen and Ink Sketches," which formerly appeared in the +Boston Atlas. Mr. Dix was with us at Windsor Castle, and when he heard +from Weld French or George Vanderbilt that Robinson's birthday would +occur shortly, he noted it, and sent James the following pretty lines, +which reached him May 15th, in Paris. I think you will be pleased with +them. + + +TO JAMES A. ROBINSON. + + When wandering neath old Windsor's towers + We laughed away the sunny hours, + You asked me for a simple rhyme; + So now accept this birthday chime. + No poet I--the "gift divine" + Ne'er was, and never will be, mine; + But take these couplets, which impart + The anxious wishes of my heart, + In place of more aspiring lay, + To greet you on your natal day. + + Boy of that country of the brave, + Beyond the Atlantic's western wave, + I, dweller in the motherland, + A welcome give with heart and hand; + And on your birthday breathe a prayer + That you may every blessing share; + That your world journey may be blest + With all that may prepare you best + For the approaching eve of age-- + The end of mortal pilgrimage. + + Upon your brow of youthful bloom + I would not cast a shade of gloom; + Yet did I say that life will ever + Flow onward like a placid river, + With only sunshine on its breast, + That ne'er 'twill be by storms distressed, + I should but flatter to deceive, + And but a web of falsehood weave. + Yet, checkered though life's path may seem, + Life's pleasures are not _all_ a dream. + + What shall I wish you? I would fain + That earthly greatness you may gain; + But if that guerdon is not sent, + Be with some humble lot content; + And let this truth be understood-- + Few can be great, _all may_ be good. + Power, pomp, ambition, envy, pride, + Wrecked barks adown life's stream may glide, + Ruined by some fierce passion throe, + E'er, reckless, o'er Time's brink they go; + But if fair virtue grasps the helm, + Nor storm nor wave can overwhelm. + + That many happy years be yours: + Seek truth which every good insures; + Press on, though clouds may intervene + And for a moment veil the scene. + Think of the great ones of your land, + And, like them, strive with heart and hand + To leave a name, when you depart, + Which shall be dear to many a heart. + Determine in life's early morn + All good to prize, all ill to scorn, + And aim to live and die as one + Worthy the land of Washington! + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 54. + + +LIVERPOOL. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Well, this looks like the back track; and here we are at the Adelphi, +ready to take our passage in the noble Atlantic, which is as good as new +again, and will sail on the twenty-third. We left Bristol with much +regret, for we there have formed acquaintances which we shall often +remember with affection and gratitude; and I wish we could meet them in +America, and have an opportunity to reciprocate some of the many +kindnesses we met with at their hands. We took the railroad for +Cheltenham, and passed through some charming country before we reached +the old city of Gloucester. On our left were the flint towers of +Berkeley Castle, where the second Edward was so savagely murdered by his +wife's command. + +Cheltenham is about forty miles from the city of Bristol, and we found +it all that Dr. C. had described it--a very nice modern town indeed. It +is like our Saratoga, but much more beautiful. The population is about +thirty thousand, and the strangers who resort there in the season are +probably five thousand more. The waters are in high repute, and are +regarded as strongly cathartic. The buildings are very fine, and the +entire air of the place is unlike any thing we have seen in England. +Other places seem old. This is new, and looks fresh and American in that +respect, but vastly more elegant and permanent than our towns usually +are. We had very kind attentions here from the Rev. Mr. Gilby, the +rector of the parish church, and who strongly urged us to stay over the +day; but we resumed the cars, got to Birmingham at ten o'clock, and went +to our old quarters at the Hen and Chickens. The next day we devoted to +the survey of this vast toy shop. Our greatest gratification was at the +royal _papier maché_ and japan works of Jennens & Bettridge. To this +firm we had introductions, and we went through every department of the +establishment. When we came to the show-rooms we were all tempted by the +beauty of the finished wares, and made several purchases. Here, too, are +other manufactories for pins and pens; but I must pass them by. We +called on the Rev. John Angell James, who has lived here so long, and +made a world-wide reputation. He looks very hearty and vigorous, and +shows no signs of age. He has lived in his house forty-five years. We +obtained his autograph. We also called on Rev. Mr. Swan, an old friend +of the doctor in early days, and had a pleasant chat. Mr. Swan was once +a professor in the college at Serampore, in India. He is full of life +and animation; and it seems to me that people here are more vivacious +and sprightly than with us--old folks and middle-aged ones certainly +are. We took dinner with Mr. Vanwart, brother-in-law to Washington +Irving, and shall not soon forget the elegant hospitality of his +mansion. He resides about two miles from the town; and his lawn gave us +a fine view of the English thrush and blackbird, of which birds there +were plenty on the grass. It was so cold that we had to have fires, +although the 19th of July. Mr. Vanwart was one of the saved, when the +Atlantic was lost in the Sound, November 26, 1846; and he made the +kindest inquiries after you and the family, and said that when he next +visited America he should find you out. That evening we reached +Liverpool, and had a quiet Sabbath, but a very stormy one. It rained +harder than any day since we have been abroad. We attended church in the +morning, and heard a very eloquent sermon from Mr. Birrel, and Dr. C. +preached for him at night. The Europa arrived on this day, and we met +friends from Boston--among others the Rev. Dr. Peck. On Monday we went +to Chester, the finest old city in England, with a population of +twenty-four thousand. It claims an antiquity equal to any city in the +world; for they say it was founded by the grandson of Japhet, two +hundred and forty years after the flood! Any how, it was great in Roman +days--great in the days of Alfred. No town in the country has a more +thorough history; and we have two very interesting octavoes filled with +it, and richly illustrated with antique engravings. It is a walled city, +and has undergone many sieges and blockades. The castle has great +celebrity, and is of Norman origin. Its walls are one mile and three +fourths in length, and there are four great gates. The bridge over the +Dee has seven arches, and is as old as the Norman conquest. The +cathedral was built in the days of Henry VII. and Henry VIII. It is +composed of red stone, and has a fine front. The chapter-house in the +cloisters is universally admired by antiquarians. We went into one very +old church, which was undergoing restoration. The town, like Berne, has +rows in front of the houses, supported by pillars so that, in shopping, +you walk under covered galleries. + +We returned to Liverpool, and dined with a gentleman who has been very +polite to us--Mr. Thomas Davies, a celebrated maker of gold watches. +From him I obtained one, preferring an English to a Swiss timepiece. +Here we saw the cultivation of plants in the house in greater perfection +than I recollect elsewhere. + +To-morrow we are to take our departure; and, though very glad to return +home, yet I feel sorry at leaving a country where there is so much that +is excellent and noble and beautiful. I have learnt, certainly, that +England and America have too much in common to justify the indulgence +of hatred and prejudice; and I find the tone of feeling here, among wise +and-good people, very kind towards America. I have rarely heard a +reflection upon our country, excepting upon our slavery. That they _must +talk_ about; and they are a little like the man who, having just got rid +of the irritable affection supposed to trouble the North Britons, could +not for his life help speaking of sulphur. An Englishman is sure to tell +you that he is free from this sin--yes, washed, but scarcely dry. + +Our hotel is filling up with Americans, and, we expect to meet many +friends on board the Atlantic. I am much pleased with the appearance of +Captain West; he looks every inch an admiral. And now, my dear fellow, I +shall see you, perhaps, before you read my letter; but I have kept my +promise to tell you what we saw and did. Of course many things will +occur to our memories when we get home, and will furnish matter for +chitchat which I hope soon to have with you, as in days of old. Well, +you are now at the business of life, and I am yet a little longer to +spend my time in preparation for it. I wonder how we shall come out, +Charley? But time will tell, and let us do our best. + +Yours affectionately, + +WELD. + +P.S. I must not forget to tell you that, while at Bristol, the doctor +and I ran up to Windsor to see the royal agricultural exhibition, held +this year in the Home Park. James stopped with our friends, and we were +anxious to see the great show of England in her farming interest. The +display was very great, and the cattle were wonderfully fine in all the +departments--Durham, Hereford, Devons, and Channel Island. The last are +very nice animals for a paddock, and give good milk. The horses were +good; and I longed to bring home one or two that I saw, and felt +strongly tempted. But the sheep and swine were the most remarkable +things there. Really, we know little about sheep. They are monstrous, +and yet very symmetrical and beautiful; whilst there are pigs, strange +as you may think it, that have established high claims to beauty and +perfection. I greatly preferred the Sussex breed to any other. Never was +a town so crowded as this same Windsor. Thousands upon thousands were +flocking into it; and how and where they fed I cannot divine. Money +seemed useless, and waiters hardly looked at half crowns for retaining +fees. + + + + +Letter 55. + + +NEW YORK, August 3,1851. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We are, through the goodness of Providence, safely returned. We had a +good voyage, in a capital ship, and under the charge of as good a +captain as ever sailed the ocean. Our passengers were about one hundred +and thirty in number, and very agreeable--some few were our old +voyagers in the Arctic. With an exception or two, our way was as +pleasant as it could have been; and there were some cheerful spirits +that knew how to create sunshine at all hours. I cannot tell what +travellers can desire in a steamer which they will not find in the +Collins line. It seems to us that we have had the full worth of the +money paid for passage. How different it is to come to New York in ten +days, instead of being on the ocean for sixty-four days, as I have in a +sailing packet! Well, this saving of time and feelings is worth the +difference of the passage price. I am at a loss to understand how +Americans who have to cross the ocean should think of supporting the +English steamers in preference to our own superior ships. The influence +of every English agent, of course, goes out in behalf of the old line; +and all sorts of stories are told about winter passages, the importance +of boats especially built for strength, and the advantages of +experience. Now, the history of the American line is a perfect +refutation of all this twaddle. The truth is, that all voyaging is +connected with exposedness to some danger; and up to this moment the +Americans have had, in all their ocean steam voyages, the full measure +of success. They have lost no boat, they have sacrificed no lives, and +they present a fleet of steamships the like of which the world cannot +equal. Whenever an American citizen takes his passage in a foreign +steamer, and an American one is at hand, he tacitly confesses the +superiority of other lands, in ocean navigation, to his own country, and +he contributes his full share to depress American enterprise, and aids +so far as he can to insure its failure. The eyes of the English nation +are upon our ships; and if we desire the spread of our national fame, we +should, every man of us, labor to sustain our own steamers and +propellers. And the government of our country should strenuously guard +the interests of this available arm of national defence; and the country +at large, would certainly sustain Congress in liberal support of this +truly American enterprise. + +Perhaps, Charley, you are ready to say to us, "Well, what do you think, +after all you have been seeing in other lands?". I reply: We think that +we return home with all our hearts more warmly attached to our beloved +land than when we left her shores. We have seen lands, as fair, and +fields as fertile, as our own. We have seen monarchies and republics; +but nowhere have we seen man as erect and self-respecting as at home. +Here we have equal laws, civil and religious liberty, no bishop to +intimidate a day laborer who prefers to pass by his cathedral gates and +worship his Maker in a humbler temple. Here our streets are not labelled +with "_Liberté, Egalité, Fraternité_," but the things signified are +_known_ and _felt_ by every man that traverses these avenues of +business. Here we have not thousands of armed men in this great city to +preserve liberty; but every man enjoys it, and sees nothing of the +government, which, though unseen, is all-powerful in the affections of +the country. + +We come home grateful that we have such a country; and though we love +and admire much, very much, in England, yet we rejoice that we can call +the United States our land. We hope we are better prepared than before +we started to do her service. I am quite satisfied, Charley, that God +has not done for any other people what he has for us. We know nothing of +the restless anxiety which depresses men in England as to the means of +procuring the necessaries of life. We have our chief anxieties called +out in reference to the obtaining the _luxuries_ and _embellishments_ of +life; the _necessaries_ are almost certain to every man who has health +and character. But in England, toil is poorly requited; and a father +and husband may, after unremitting labor, have to find his refuge, and +his only one, in that petition of the Lord's Prayer, which you and I +never employed _in pure faith_, "Give me this day my daily bread." We +_say so_; but _we know whence it is coming to us. He_ knows not; and +what he knows not, he asks God after. + +A thoughtful and humane American cannot travel in Europe without having +his sympathies daily called out in behalf of the sufferings of man. I am +no apologist for slavery; I deeply lament its existence; but I believe +that there is as much suffering in coal pits and manufacturing districts +of England as in our southern slave states. In regard to England, I feel +encouraged. In an absence of fifteen years I see marked improvement. Man +is more respected, as man, than he once was; the masses are coming up; +and the wealthy and the noble are more considerate. It is a great folly +and a wickedness to think that the nobility of England are weak, +vicious, unfeeling, proud, and self-indulgent. Some of the noblest +characters of England are to be found in the peerage--men who "fear God +and work righteousness." Their homes are often centres of diffusive +blessedness; and were the nobility of England what too many here suppose +them, the state could not last a twelvemonth. The queen is popular, and +is clearly a woman of great tact. She would do at a crisis. Prince +Albert is everything to her. He is a profoundly wise and prudent man, +highly educated, and has very superior powers of mind. He is continually +making speeches, but they are all marked by _adaptation_. I have never +heard one disrespectful word uttered in England in regard to him. His +labors for the exhibition, have been remarkable, and but for the prince +the palace never would have been reared. England is happy indeed in +having such a man to counsel and support the sovereign. + +Europe looks as though a storm were once more about to gather over her +old battle fields. France is not in her true position. She would like to +see her armies employed; and I shall not be surprised to hear of his +holiness clearing out from Rome and seeking protection from Austria. If +that happens, France will sustain liberal views in the Eternal City, and +the contest will be severe. + +Popery has lost its hold upon the continent, and is seeking to regain +its influence in England, and plant it in America. The people of England +are Protestant to the heart's core. The folly of a few scholastics at +Oxford has created all the hue and cry of Puseyism, and invigorated the +hopes of Rome. These men at Oxford have poisoned the minds of a few of +their pupils, and in the upper walks of life some sympathy is seen with +views that seem at least semi-Papistical. But the great body of the +people is sound. More than half the population is made up of dissenters +and they, to a man, hate "the beast;" and there is about as much danger +of Popery being established in England as there is of absolute monarchy +being embraced as our form of government. + +Popery in America must spread by immigration. We have Ireland virtually +in America; but here the Irish will gradually merge into Americans, and +the power of the priesthood will be less and less regarded by their +children. I have no apprehensions from the coming of Catholics to our +country. Let them come, and we must get Bibles ready for them, and Bible +readers to visit them, and schools to teach their children; and if +cardinal, or archbishop, or priest tell us that Popery is the friend of +science, and that it never persecuted genius, imprisoned learning, nor +burnt God's saints, we will tell the deceiver that he lies in the face +of God and man and the world's history. + +I am not, my dear fellow, uncharitable; a man may be better than his +creed; and I believe that some priests who have sung the song of the +mass will hereafter sing the song of Moses and the Lamb. But of Popery, +_as it is seen in Italy, and Austria, and other parts of the old world,_ +I cannot but pronounce it a curse to the human family, a system all +unworthy of God, and blasting to the happiness of man. + +The boys are in the enjoyment of health, and will soon see you. They +have been constant sources of pleasure to me, by their thoughtful +kindness and consideration; and nothing has transpired, to cause us to +look back with pain on any part of our wanderings from home. + +Yours, very truly, + +JNO. O. CHOULES. + + +To Mr. CHARLES W. DUSTAN, + +Stapleton; Staten Island, New York. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Young Americans Abroad, by Various + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK YOUNG AMERICANS ABROAD *** + +***** This file should be named 20625-0.txt or 20625-0.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/0/6/2/20625/ + +Produced by Frank van Drogen, Ralph Janke and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://dp.rastko.net, +from images generously made available by gallica +(Bibliothèque nationale de France) at http://gallica.bnf.fr. + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. +To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + http://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/20625-0.zip b/20625-0.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..72d6e8b --- /dev/null +++ b/20625-0.zip diff --git a/20625-8.txt b/20625-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8190a3b --- /dev/null +++ b/20625-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8924 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Young Americans Abroad, by Various + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Young Americans Abroad + Vacation in Europe: Travels in England, France, Holland, + Belgium, Prussia and Switzerland + +Author: Various + +Editor: J.O. Choules + +Release Date: February 19, 2007 [EBook #20625] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK YOUNG AMERICANS ABROAD *** + + + + +Produced by Frank van Drogen, Ralph Janke and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://dp.rastko.net, +from images generously made available by gallica +(Bibliothèque nationale de France) at http://gallica.bnf.fr. + + + + + +[Illustration: Cathedral Church of St. Gudule, Brussels] + + + + + YOUNG AMERICANS ABROAD; + + OR, + + VACATION IN EUROPE: + + TRAVELS + + IN ENGLAND, FRANCE, HOLLAND, BELGIUM, PRUSSIA + AND SWITZERLAND. + + With Illustrations. + + BOSTON: + GOULD AND LINCOLN, + + 89 WASHINGTON STREET. + 1852. + + + + + Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1851, by + + GOULD AND LINCOLN, + + In the Clerk's Office of the District Court + of the District of Massachusetts. + + + + + STEREOTYPED AT THE + BOSTON STEREOTYPE FOUNDRY + + + + + TO + + GEORGE SUMNER, ESQ., + + AS A + + SLIGHT TRIBUTE OF GRATITUDE + + FOR HIS KIND ATTENTIONS IN PARIS, + + AND IN + + ADMIRATION OF TALENTS DEVOTED TO THE INTERESTS OF + + FREEDOM, + + THESE LETTERS ARE RESPECTFULLY + + DEDICATED, + + BY HIS OBLIGED FRIENDS, + + THE AUTHORS. + + + + + LIST + + OF + + ILLUSTRATIONS. + + * * * * * + + I. FRONTISPIECE--CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF ST. + GUDULE, BRUSSELS. + + II. ICEBERGS SEEN FROM STEAMSHIP "ARCTIC," + APRIL 6, 1851, 24 + + III. PORTRAIT OF THOMAS CHATTERTON, 56 + + IV. PORTRAIT OF ROBERT SOUTHEY, 61 + + V. PORTRAIT OF SAMUEL TAYLOR COLERIDGE, 88 + + VI. VIEW OF ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL, LONDON, 148 + + VII. A FULL-LENGTH PORTRAIT OF DR. SAMUEL + JOHNSON, 150 + + VIII. VIEW OF THE POET'S CORNER, WESTMINSTER + ABBEY, 185 + + IX. VIEW OF THE COLONNE DE JUILLET, 196 + + X. VINTAGE OF THE RHINE, 275 + + XI. VIEW OF A SWISS COTTAGE, 305 + + XII. NAPOLEON'S SARCOPHAGUS, 324 + + + + +INTRODUCTION + + +One evening last winter a few private pupils were sitting in the study +of their instructor, when he stated his intention to pass the spring +vacation in Europe, and his wish to have two or three of his young +friends as his travelling companions. An earnest and joyous desire was +expressed by each lad to enjoy the gratification, and in the course of a +short period the arrangements were made which afforded him the pleasure +to assure three boys that they should accompany him. The ages of the +young travelers were twelve, fourteen, and sixteen. Their attention was +immediately directed to a course of reading adapted to prepare them for +the beneficial use of the proposed tour; and during its progress each +boy kept a journal, which was useful as a reference in the +correspondence kept up with friends and families at home. A companion in +study, left behind, and prevented by duty from joining the party, wished +to have constant advices of the movements of his friends; and the +letters of the young travellers to a lad of sixteen are, at the advice +of many friends, now submitted to the perusal of those at that age. No +similar work is known to the authors of these letters; and at the +forthcoming gift season it is hoped that the young of our country may be +amused and gratified by these reminiscences of other lands. + +J.O. CHOULES. + +NEWPORT, R.I., Nov. 25, 1851. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +LETTER I. + +Arrival at New York. + + +LETTER II. + +Going on board Steamer.--Arctic.--Weather.--Passengers.--Loss of Life +and Burial at Sea.--Icebergs.--Sabbath at Sea.--Land.--Excellence of +Collins Line.--Adelphi Hotel. + + +LETTER III. + +Liverpool; Its Public Buildings, Docks, &c. + + +LETTER IV. + +Birmingham.--Arrival in London.--Strand.--Temple Bar.--Fleet +Street.--London Exchange.--London Coffee House.--Omnibuses. + + +LETTER V. + +United States Minister in London.--His kind Attentions.--Crystal +Palace.--London of other Days.--Monument.--The Bridges. + + +LETTER VI. + +Villages.--Camberwel.--Accidents and Murders in England as common as in +America.--Greenwich Fair.--Gypsies. + + +LETTER VII. + +Great Western Railroad.--Swindon.--Bristol.--Scenes of early +Life.--Ancient City.--Clifton and Hot Wells.--Redcliffe +Church.--Chatterton. + + +LETTER VIII. + +Bristol Cathedral.--Monuments and +Inscriptions.--Butler.--Mason.--Southey.--Cloisters.--Mayor's +Chapel.--Dundry.--Vine Prospect.--School attended in Boyhood. + + +LETTER IX. + +Clifton.--Avon.--Hot Wells.--Vincent's Rocks.--Robert Hall.--Sublime +Scenery.--Leigh Court Picture Gallery. + +LETTER X + +Bath.--Royal Crescent.--Queen Square.--Cathedral.--Hot +Baths.--Bradford.--Trowbridge.--Devizes.--Cricket. + + +LETTER XI. + +Tower of London; its History.--Horse Armory.--Antiquities and +Curiosities.--Executions.--Regalia, &c. + + +LETTER XII. + +Thames Tunnel.--New Houses of Parliament.--House of Lords +described.--Fresco Paintings.--St. Stephen's Hall.--House of +Commons.--Westminster Hall; its Associations, festive and criminal. + + +LETTER XIII. + +British Museum; its fine Galleries, Pictures, Library, Autographs, and +MSS.--The Place to study.--Lord Campbell.--Servant who resorted to it. + + +LETTER XIV. + +Woolwich.--Naval Arsenal and Dock Yard.--Ships of War.--Yard.--Twenty +Thousand Cannon.--Greenwich.--Blackheath.--Lee Grove.--Golden Cross and +its Host.--Mr. Lawrence's Soirée.--Duke of Wellington. + + +LETTER XV. + +Exhibition.--Season Tickets.--Wet Weather.--One May fine.--City +Streets.--Throng around Palace.--Arrival of the Queen.--Opening +Scenes.--Procession, &c. + + +LETTER XVI. + +Fine Equipages.--Appearance of the Palace.--Walk through the +Exhibition.--American Contributions.--Greek Slave, &c.--Mediæval +Court.--Kohinoor Glass Window.--Austrian Furniture.--Amazon of +Kiss.--Crusaders.--Galleries.--Transept.--Glass Fountain.-- +Sculpture.--Veiled Vesta.--Machinery.--Models.--Model of +Liverpool.--Plate Glass.--Taunton Cabinet--Steam Power, &c. + + +LETTER XVII. + +Royal Polytechnic Institution.--Lectures.--Egyptian Hall.--Panorama of +Overland Route to California.--Exeter Hall Sermons.--Wyld's great +Globe.--Zoölogical Gardens.--Christ's Church Hospital; its Boys. + + +LETTER XVIII. + +Windsor Castle; its History.--Interior of the Palace.-- +Pictures.--Waterloo Chamber.--St. George's Chanel.--Royal +Tombs.--Edward IV.--Henry VIII.--Charles I., Discovery of his Body in +1813, Account of the Appearance, &c.--Terraces of the Castle.--Eton +College.--Datchett.--Great Park.--Long Walk.--Celebrated +Trees.--Virginia Water.--Cumberland Lodge.--Frogmore. + + +LETTER XIX. + +Sir John Soane's Museum, House, Antiquities, Pictures.--Hogarth's +"Rake's Progress," and the "Election."--Wonderful Economy of Room, +&c.--Greenwich; Hospital, Chapel, Paintings, and Statuary.--Queen's +Stables; Horses, Harness Room, State Carriage.--Soyer's Symposium; +Description of its Rooms.--Dinner there. + + +LETTER XX. + +The Temple Church and its historical Associations.--Steamboat on +Thames.--View of St. Paul's from River.--St. Paul's Cathedral; its +Dome.--Statues: Johnson, Howard, Reynolds, Heber, West, Nelson.--Ascent +of the Dome and Cross.--View of London. + + +LETTER XXI. + +Westminster Abbey.--Early History.--Associations.--Poet's +Corner.--Chapels.--Monuments and Effigies.--Coronation Chairs.--Stone +of Scone Statuary.--Sermon in Abbey by Lord John Thynne. + + +LETTER XXII. + +Hyde Park.--St. James's and Green Park.--Regent's Park.--Squares of +London.--Northumberland House.--Sion House.--St Margaret's Church.--St. +Martin's in-the-Fields. + + +LETTER XXIII. + +Mission House.--Lord Mayor's Day.--Royal Exchange.--Bank of +England.--London Docks.--Covent Garden Market. + + +LETTER XXIV. + +Rev. Dr. Murray.--Dover Castle.--Passage across the Channel.-- +Calais.--St. Omer.--Douai.--Arras.--Amiens.--Clermont.--Paris.-- +Hotel Windsor.--A Mistake, and Loss of a Dinner. + + +LETTER XXV. + +Gardens and Promenades.--Gayety.--Flowers.--Wrong Drawing-room.--Notre +Dame.--Interior.--Sacristy.--Robes and Relics.--Hotel de Ville.--Louvre +shut.--Paris by Moonlight. + + +LETTER XXVI. + +Palais Royal.--Garden.--Gay Scene.--Passage d'Orleans.--House opposite +to which Henry IV. was assassinated by Ravaillac.--Molière.--Marat and +Charlotte Corday.--Palace of the Luxembourg.--Paintings.--Gardens.-- +Statuary.--Chapel. + + +LETTER XXVII + +Hotel de Cluny; History, Associations, Interior, wonderful +Contents.--Julian's Palace of the Baths.--Mr. George Sumner.--Church +of St. Sulpice.--Statuary.--Ecclesiastical Fountain.--Bibliothèque St. +Geneviève.--Church of St. Etienne du Mont.--History.--Monuments of +Racine and Pascal.--Christening an Infant.--Church of St. Germain des +Pres, (oldest in Paris); its Restoration going on.--Tombs of Descartes, +Mabillon, Montfaucon, &c. + + +LETTER XXVIII. + +Jardin des Plantes; Situation, History.--Cedar of Lebanon and +Palm-trees.--Menagerie.--Cuvier.--Museum of Comparative Anatomy, +&c.--Paris owes much to Henry IV., Louis XIV., Napoleon, and Louis +Philippe.--Pont Neuf.--St. Bartholomew's Massacre.--Bastile.--Column. + + +LETTER XXIX. + +An amusing Fellow-countryman.--Père la Chaise.--Monuments.--Abattoir. +--Consul's Office; his numerous Calls. + + +LETTER XXX. + +Cirque.--Amusements.--Champs Elysées.--Hippodrome.--Arabs.--Sabbath +kept in Parlor. + + +LETTER XXXI. + +Pleasant Company.--Railroad to Brussels.--Jemappes.--Mons.--Brussels; +History.--Hotel de Ville.--Cathedral Church of St. Gudule; its +Monuments.--First Communion.--Park.--Palace.--Hon. Mr. Bayard. + + +LETTER XXXII. + +Lacework.--Money Matters.--An uncivil Banker.--Museum.--Paintings. +--Burgundian Library.--Manekin.--Botanical Garden. + + +LETTER XXXIII. + +Excursion to Waterloo.--Hongomont.--Relics.--Belgian Mound and +Lion.--Ivy from Waterloo for Mr. J.P. Hall.--Church.--King Leopold. + + +LETTER XXXIV. + +Laeken.--Vilvorde.--Mechlin, or Mallnes.--Antwerp; History.--Place +Verte.--Statue of Rubens.--Cathedral of Notre Dame.--Interior +Pulpit.--Pictures by Rubens.--Tower of the Church.--Quentin Matsys's +fine old Houses. + + +LETTER XXXV. + +St. James's Church.--Tomb of Rubens.--Paintings by Rubens and +Jordaens.--Vandyke.--Mount Calvary.--Monk of La Trappe.--Museum.--Chair +of Rubens; his Pictures.--Other great Works of Art.--St. Andrew's +Church.--Bourse.--Mr. Vesey, U.S. Consul. + + +LETTER XXXVI. + +Dock Yards at Antwerp.--Steamboat Passage on the Scheldt.--Dort.--Lost +Villages.--Bergen op Zoom.--Van Speyk.--Rotterdam.--Erasmus.--Delft. +--Hague.--Hon. George Folsom; his Kindness.--Scheveningen.--Museum. +--Japanese Curiosities.--Historical Curiosities.--Gallery of Pictures. +--Rembrandt, Paul Potter, Gerard Dow, &c.--King's Palace.--Brimenhoff. +--De Witt.--Bosch.--John Adams's House. + + +LETTER XXXVII. + +Dunes.--Leyden; History.--Harlem.--Church of St. Bavon; +Organ.--Coster.--Flower Gardens.--Palace of late King.--Picture +Gallery.--Exhibition of Pictures by living Artists.--Amsterdam. + + +LETTER XXXVIII. + +Mr. J.G. Schwartze.--Stadhuis.--Churches.--Jews.--Picture +Gallery.--Dutch School.--Columbus before the Council.--Artists' Club. + + +LETTER XXXIX. + +Utrecht.--Lobith.--Ruhrort.--Meet with Americans on Return from the +East.--Cologne; History.--Cathedral.--Three Kings.--Relics.--St. Peter's +Church.--Crucifixion of Peter, by Rubens.--Champagne for America. + + +LETTER XL. + +The +Rhine.--Bonn.--Drachenfels.--Godesberg.--Rolandseck.--Oberwinter. +--Okenfels.--Castle Reineck.--Neuwied.--A Raft.--Castle of +Sain.--Ehrenbreitstein.--Coblentz. + + +LETTER XLI. + +Coblentz.--The Moselle.--Excursion to Stolzenfels.--Curiosities.--Fine +View.--Boat up to Mayence.--The Brothers.--Rheinfels.--Lurley +Rock.--Seven Sisters.--Pfalz.--The Rheingau.--Falkenberg.--Rheinstein. +--Assmanshausen.--Ehrenfels.--Mausetherm.--Bingen.--Geisenheim. +--Johannisberg.--Erbach.--Biberich.--Mayence.--John Guttemberg's +Statue--Austrian Troops.--An English Nobleman. + + +LETTER XLII. + +Frankfort.--The Römer; its Portraits of the Emperors.--Mr. Bethman's +Gallery of Statuary.--Ariadne.--Jews' Quarters.--Darmstadt.--The +Bergstrasse.--Heidelberg.--Castle.--Baden.--Kehl.--Strasburg. + + +LETTER XLIII. + +Cathedral; Its History; Interior Clock.--St. Thomas's Church.--Kleber's +Tomb. + + +LETTER XLIV. + +Vosges Mountains.--Vineyards.--Colmar.--Mühlhausen.--Basle.--Black +Forest.--United States Consul, Mr. Burchardt.--Cathedral.--Tomb of +Erasmus.--Chapter House.--Holbein Gallery.--University.--Library. +--MSS.--St. Jacob.--Tea Party. + + +LETTER XLV. + +Moutiers Valley.--Sublime Scenery.--Domach.--Arch.--Roman +Antiquities.--Berne.--Mechanical Clock.--Cathedral; Organ, Choir, +Bears.--Lausanne. + + +LETTER XLVI. + +Mountain Scenery.--Hotel Gibbon.--Episcopal Church.--Signal.--Hotel de +Ville, and its kind Inhabitants.--Cathedral; its History.--Steamboat +to Vevay.--Castle of Chillon.--St. Martin's Church and the +Regicides.--Geneva.--Cathedral.--Museum.--Calvin's +MBS.--D'Aubigné.--Gaussen--Malan.--Evangelical Association; its +Anniversary.--Count George.--Soirée.--Mr. Delorme.--The +Salève.--Savoy.--Rousseau's Island. + + +LETTER XLVII. + +Diligence for Dijon.--Fine Scenery.--Dijon; History.--Railroad to +Paris.--Sens.--Cathedral.--Fontainebleau. + + +LETTER XLVIII. + +Methodist Chapel.--Madeline.--Pantheon.--Louvre, open.--Statuary and +Paintings.--Versailles.--Statuary.--Series of National +Paintings.--Portraits of distinguished Men.--Apartments.--Gardens and +Fountains.--Grand and Petit Trianon.--Passy.--St. Cloud. + + +LETTER XLIX. + +Glass Depot--American Friends.--Good Intentions.--Hospital des +Invalides.--Garden of the Tulleries; its Scenery.--Triumphal +Arch.--Chapel of St. Ferdinand.--National Library.--A Tradesman's +Memory. + + +LETTER L. + +Calais; its Recollections.--Rough Passage of the Channel.--Dover.--Mr. +Peabody's Entertainment on the Fourth of July described.--Company.--A +patriotic Act. + + +LETTER LI. + +Entertainment at the Belgian Minister's.--Young Nobility.--A noble +Boy.--Craven Chapel.--Slavery.--Exhibition.--Pauper Labor.--Need of a +Tariff. + + +LETTER LII. + +Kind Friends at Bristol,--Weston Super Mare.--Museum of Baptist +College.--Highbury Chapel.--Old Houses of Bristol.--Fine Churches. + + +LETTER LIII. + +River Avon.--Wye.--Chepstow.--St. Aryan's.--Wynd Cliff.--Glorious +Scenery.--Tintern Abbey; its History.--Ragland Castle; +Appearance.--Marquis of Worcester.--Chopstow Castle.--Henry +Marten.--Defence of the Parliamentary Party.--Severn River.--Old +Passage.--Henbury.--Blaize Castle.--Birthday Lines. + + +LETTER LIV. + +Leave Bristol.--Berkeley.--Cheltenham.--Birmingham; Manufactories.--Rev. +John Angell James.--Mr. Vanwart.--Liverpool.--Chester; its +Antiquity.--Cathedral.--Rows and Pillars.--Englishmen and Americans have +much in Common.--Royal Agricultural Exhibition at Windsor. + + +LETTER LV. + +Passage Home in the Steamer Atlantic.--Claims of the Collins +Line.--Lessons taught by Travel in other Lands.--Our +Comforts.--Excellent Character of many of the English Nobility.--Queen +Victoria and Prince Albert.--Prospect of Affairs in Europe.--Popery as +seen in her proper Territories. + + + + +Young Americans Abroad. + + + + +Letter 1. + + +ASTOR HOUSE, NEW YORK, April 1, 1851. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +I have just arrived at this place, and have found my companions on hand, +all ready for the commencement of the long-anticipated voyage. We regret +the circumstances which render it your duty to remain, and we all feel +very sorry for the disappointment of your wishes and our hopes. You +will, however, feel happy in the thought that you are clearly in the +path of duty; and you have already learnt that that path is a safe one, +and that it always leads to happiness. You have begged us all to write +to you as frequently as we can, and we have concluded to send you our +joint contributions, drawing largely upon our journals as we move from +place to place; and, as we have for so many years had pleasant +intercourse in the family circle, we wish to maintain it by +correspondence abroad. Our letters will, of course, be very different +in their character and interest, because you will bear in mind that out +ages are different; and we shall write you from a variety of points, +some having a deeper interest than others. I trust that this series of +letters will give you a general view of our movements, and contribute to +your gratification, if not to your instruction. The weather is +delightful, and we are anticipating a fine day for leaving port. It is +to all of us a source of pain that we are deprived of your sunny smile; +and while we are wandering far away in other lands, we shall often, in +fancy, listen to your merry laugh; and I assure you, my dear fellow, +that, wherever we rove, it will be amongst our pleasantest thoughts of +home when we anticipate the renewal of personal intercourse with one who +has secured so warm a place in our affections. + +Yours truly, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 2. + + +ADELPHI HOTEL, LIVERPOOL, April 14. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +It is but twelve days since we parted, and yet we are actually in the +old world, and the things which we have so often talked over on the +rock-bound shore are really before me. Yes, we are on the soil of Old +England, and are soon to see its glories and greatness, and, I fear, its +miseries, for a bird's eye view has already satisfied me that there is +enough of poverty. You know we left New York in a soaking rain, and the +wind blowing fresh from the north-east. We all felt disappointed, as we +had hoped to pass down the bay, so celebrated for its beauty, with the +bright sunshine to cheer our way; but we had to take comfort from the +old proverb, that "a bad beginning makes a good ending." James, George, +and I had made up our minds to a regular time of sea-sickness, and so we +hastened to put our state room into order and have all our conveniences +fixed for the voyage. As soon as we had made matters comfortable, we +returned to the deck, and found a most formidable crowd. Every passenger +seemed to have, on the occasion, a troop of friends, and all parts of +the immense steamer were thronged. The warning voice of _"all on shore"_ +soon caused a secession, and at twelve o'clock we had the great agent at +work by which we hoped to make headway against wind and wave. The +cheering of the crowd upon the wharf was hearty as we dropped into the +river, and its return from our passengers was not lacking in spirit. The +Arctic, you know, is one of the Collins line of steamers, and I was not +a little surprised at her vast size and splendid accommodations, because +I had only seen the Cunard boats in Boston, which are very inferior, in +size and comfort, to this palace and tower of the ocean. + +We all anticipated a hard time of it, from the severe storm which raged +all the morning, and I, in common with all the passengers, was delighted +to find it any thing but rough water outside the Hook. We kept steaming +away till we lost sight of land with the loss of daylight, and yet the +sea was in less commotion than it frequently exhibits in Newport Harbor. +The next morning, at breakfast, we had quite a fair representation at +table, and I think more than two thirds presented themselves for duty. +We boys were all on hand, and passed for "able-bodied men." The routine +of life on board was as follows: We breakfasted at eight, lunched at +twelve, dined at four, took tea at half past six, and from nine till +eleven gentlemen had any article for supper they saw fit to order. This +is quite enough of time for taking care of the outer man, and any one +careful of his health will be sure to intermit one or two of these +seasons. All the meals were excellent, and the supplies liberal. The +tables present a similar appearance to those of a first-class hotel. In +regard to our passengers, I think I can say, with confidence, that a +more agreeable set of persons could not well have been gathered +together. It really was a nicely-assorted cargo. We numbered one +hundred and thirty, and the various parts of our country were all +represented. Philadelphia sent the largest delegation; from that city we +had more than twenty. I liked the looks of the passengers at the first +glance, and every day's intercourse heightened my estimate of their +worth and pleasantness. Amongst the company we had Professor Haddock, of +Dartmouth College, going out to Portugal as _chargé d'affaires_. He was +accompanied by his lady and son. Then, too, we had the world-renowned +Peter Parley, with his accomplished family circle. Mr. Goodrich, after a +long life of labor for the youth of his country, for whose reading and +instruction he has done so much, has been honored by the government of +the United States with an appointment as consul at Paris. Mr. Goodrich +resided there for two or three years, and was in Paris during the +revolution of 1848. He seems fond of the company of young people, and we +spent a great deal of time on board with him, listening to his stories, +some made up for the occasion, and narrations of the events in February +at Paris, and some capital anecdotes about the last war with England, +during which he served his country in the army. The Hon. George Wright, +of California, and her first representative in Congress, was also one of +our party; and his glowing descriptions of the auriferous regions kept +groups of audience for many an hour. The Rev. Arthur Cleveland Cox, of +Hartford, favorably known as the author of some pleasant rhymes and +sonnets, Mr. Cunningham, a southern editor, and several retired sea +captains, all contributed to enhance the agreeableness of the voyage. I +am sorry to tell you that, three days out, we had a sad occurrence in +our little world. Just as we were sitting down to lunch at eight bells, +the machinery stopped for a moment, and we were informed that William +Irwin, one of the assistant engineers, was crushed to death. He +accidentally slipped from his position, and was killed instantaneously. +In less than half an hour he was sewed up in canvas, and all hands +called to attend his funeral services! The poor fellow was laid upon a +plank covered with the American flag, and placed at the wheel-house. The +service was performed by Mr. Cox, in full canonicals; and I can assure +you that the white-robed priest, as he issued from the cabin and +ascended the wheel-house, really looked impressively. At the close, he +was committed to the deep. What food for thought was here! A man in +health and at life's daily task,--alive,--dead,--and buried,--all these +conditions of his state crowded into thirty minutes! The poor man had a +mother who was dependent upon him. Dr. Choules drew up a subscription +paper for her benefit, and nearly five hundred dollars were at once +raised for her relief. This unhappy event, of course, gave a sad +damper to the joyous feelings which existed on board, and which were +excited by our fine weather and rapid headway. On Sunday we had two +sermons in the cabin to large congregations, all the passengers +attending, with the officers and many of the crew. The morning service +was by Dr. Choules, and the evening one by Mr. Cox. + +[Illustration: Four Positions of an Iceberg, seen 6th of April. +Estimated Height, 300 feet. Lat. 43.04; long. 53.11; at Noon.] + +[Illustration: Icebergs seen from the Steamship "Arctic," on the Voyage +from New York to Liverpool, April 6, 1851.] + +In the afternoon, April 6, we had the gratification to see a magnificent +iceberg. We were in lat. 43° 4', lon. 53° 11' at twelve o'clock, and at +three the ice appeared at about ten miles' distance. The estimated +height was about three hundred feet. One if the passengers took a +sketch. I also made one, and have laid it aside for your inspection. + +The berg had much the appearance of the gable end of a large house, and +at some little distance there was another, of tower-like aspect, and +much resembling a light-house. The effect of the sun upon it, as we saw +it in various positions, was exceedingly fine. On Monday, the 7th, we +saw a much larger one, with several small ones as neighbors. This was +probably one mile in length, and about two hundred feet high. + +We saw several whales frolicking at the distance of a mile, and +distinctly saw them spout at short intervals. + +After having had all reason to hope for a ten-day passage, we were +annoyed for four or five days with head winds, materially retarding our +headway. The evenings of the voyage were generally spent on deck, where +we had charming concerts. Seldom have I heard better singing than we +were favored with by eight or ten ladies and gentlemen. One universal +favorite was the beautiful piece, "Far, far at sea." On Sunday, the +13th, just after morning service, conducted by Mr. Cox, we made Mizzen +Head, and obtained a magnificent view of the north coast of Ireland, +which was far more beautiful than we had expected. The coast is very +bold, and the cliffs precipitous, in many places strongly reminding us +of the high lands of the Hudson. A more exquisite treat than that which +we enjoyed all the afternoon in looking on the Irish coast I can hardly +imagine. At night we had a closing service, and Dr. Choules preached. +Every one seemed to feel that we had cause for thankfulness that we had +been brought in safety across the ocean, and under so many circumstances +of enjoyment We have made acquaintances that are truly valuable, and +some of them I hope to cultivate in future life. One of the great +advantages of travel, Charles, seems to be, that it enables us to +compare men of other places than those we live in with our former +acquaintances. It brings us into intercourse with those who have had a +different training and education than our own; and I think a man or boy +must be pretty thoroughly conceited who does not often find out his own +inferiority to many with whom he chances to meet. On board our ship are +several young men of fine attainments, who, engaged in mechanical +business, are going out to obtain improvement and instruction by a +careful study of the great exhibition. A number of gentlemen with us are +young merchants, who represent houses in our great cities, and go to +England and France twice and three times every year. Some of these are +thoroughly accomplished men, and, wherever they go, will reflect credit +upon their country. In no country, perhaps, do young men assume +important trusts in commercial life at so early a period as in America. +I have heard one or two Englishmen on board express their surprise at +finding large business operations intrusted to young men of twenty and +twenty-one; and yet there are some such with us who are making their +second and third trips to Manchester, Leeds, Paisley, and Paris, for the +selection of goods. + +I ought to tell you that, on the last day of the voyage, we had a great +meeting in the cabin, Mr. Goodrich in the chair, for the purpose of +expressing the satisfaction of the passengers with the Arctic, her +captain, officers, and engineer. Several good speeches were made, and +some resolutions passed. This has become so ordinary an affair at the +termination of a passage, as to have lost much of its original value; +but as this ship had an unusual number of passengers, many of them well +known to their fellow-countrymen, and as great opposition had been +displayed, on both sides of the ocean, to this line of steamers, it was +thought suitable to express our views in relation to this particular +ship and the great undertaking with which she is identified. Every man +on board was satisfied that, in safety, these ships are equal to the +Cunard line; while in comfort, accommodation, size, and splendor they +far surpass their rivals. It really seems strange to us that Americans +should think of making the ocean trip in an English steamship, when +their own country has a noble experiment in trial, the success of which +alone depends upon the patriotism and spirit of her citizens. The +English on board are forced to confess that our ship and the line are +all that can be asked, and I think that pretty strong prejudices have +been conquered by this voyage. Every one left the ship with sentiments +of respect to Captain Luce, who, I assure you, we found to be a very +kind friend, and we shall all of us be glad to meet him again on ship or +shore. + +On Monday, the 14th, at three o'clock, we took our pilot, and at eight +o'clock we anchored off Liverpool, and a dark-looking steamtug came off +to us for the mails, foreign ministers, and bearers of despatches. As +we came under the wing of one of the last-named class of favored +individuals, we took our luggage, and proceeded straight to the Adelphi +Hotel. I ought to say that James was the first to quit the ship and +plant his foot on Old England. It was quite strange to see it so light +at half past eight o'clock, although it was a rainy evening. I shall not +soon forget the cheerful appearance of the Adelphi, which, in all its +provisions for comfort, both in the coffee-room and our chambers, struck +me more favorably than any hotel I had ever seen. Although our +state-room on board the Arctic was one of the extra size and every thing +that was nice, yet I long for the conveniences of a bed-chamber and a +warm bath. I am quite disposed to join with the poor Irish woman who had +made a steerage passage from New York to Liverpool in a packet ship; and +when landed at St. George's pier, and seated on her trunk, a lady who +had also landed, when getting into her carriage, said, "Well, my good +woman, I suppose you are very glad to get out of the ship?" Her reply +was, "And indeed, my lady, every bone in my body cries out _feathers!_" + + +Yours truly, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 3. + + +LIVERPOOL. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Well, we have fairly commenced our travel, and yet I can scarcely +realize the fact that I am here in Old England, and that, for some +months at least, I shall be away from home and the occupations of the +school-room. The next day after landing we went to the custom-house to +see our fellow-passengers pass their effects, and really felt glad to +think of our good fortune in landing every thing at night and direct +from the ship. It was an exciting scene, and I was not a little amused +to observe the anxiety of the gentlemen to save their cigars from the +duty imposed, and which amounts to nine shillings sterling per pound. +All sorts of contrivances were in vogue, and the experiences of men were +various, the man with one hundred, perhaps, being brought up, while his +neighbor with five hundred passed off successfully, and, as he cleared +the building, seemed disposed to place his finger on the prominent +feature of his face. + +I quite like the appearance of Liverpool. After walking through the +principal streets and making a general survey of the shops,--no one +speaks of _store_,--I think I can testify to the extraordinary cleanness +of the city, and the massiveness and grandeur of the public buildings. + +Our attention was first directed to the cemetery which had been +described, you remember, to us one evening in the study. It is on the +confines of the city, and is made but of an old quarry. I liked it +better than any cemetery I ever saw; it is unlike all I had seen, and, +though comparatively small, is very picturesque, I may almost say +romantic. The walls are lofty, and are devoted to spacious tombs, and +the groundwork abounds in garden shrubbery and labyrinth. Some of the +monuments are striking. The access to this resting-place is by a steep +cut through the rock, and you pass under an archway of the most imposing +character. At the entrance of the cemetery is a neat chapel, and the +officiating minister has a dwelling-house near the gate. + +I wish you could see a building now in progress, and which has taken +twelve or fourteen years to erect, and from its appearance will not, I +suppose, be finished in four or five more. It is called St. George's +Hall. The intent is to furnish suitable accommodations for the various +law courts, and also to contain the finest ball-room in Europe. It is in +a commanding position. I know little of architecture, but this building +strikes me as one of exquisite beauty. We obtained an order from the +mayor to be shown over it and examine the works, and we enjoyed it very +much. The great hall will be without a rival in England. The town hall +is a noble edifice, and the people are quite proud of it. The interior +is finely laid out, and has some spacious rooms for the civic revelries +of the fathers of the town. The good woman who showed us round feels +complacently enough as she explains the uses of the rooms. The ball-room +is ninety feet by forty-six, and forty feet high. The dining and +drawing-rooms are spacious apartments. On the grand staircase is a noble +statue of George Canning, by Chantrey, whose beautiful one of Washington +we have so often admired in the Boston State House. In the building are +some good paintings of the late kings; one or two by Sir Thomas +Lawrence. The Exchange is directly behind the hall, and contains in the +centre a glorious bronze monument to Lord Nelson, the joint production +of Wyat and Westmacott. Death is laying his hand upon the hero's heart, +and Victory is placing a fourth crown on his sword. Ever since I read +Southey's Life of Nelson, I have felt an interest in every thing +relating to this great; yet imperfect man. You know that illustrated +work on Nelson that we have so often looked at it contains a large +engraving of this monument. As Yankee boys, we found our way to the top +of the Exchange, to look at the cotton sales-room. This same room has +more to do with our good friends at the south than any other in the +world. The atmosphere would have been chilly to a Georgian planter, as +cotton was down--down. + +The Necropolis is a very spacious burying-place, open to all classes, +and where persons can be interred with the use of any form desired. The +gateway is of stone, and not unlike the granite one at Mount Auburn; and +on one side is a chapel, and on the other a house for the register. Not +far from this we came to the Zoölogical Gardens, kept in excellent +order, and where is a good collection of animals, birds, &c. The +Collegiate Institution is an imposing structure in the Tudor style. + +St. George's Church, which stands at the head of Lord Street, occupies +the position of the old castle, destroyed, I believe, more than one +hundred and fifty years ago, and is a very graceful termination to one +of the best business avenues of the city. Several of the churches and +chapels are in good style. But one of the best buildings is--as it +should be, in a city like this--the Sailor's Home, not far from the +Custom House. This is a highly-ornamented house, and would adorn any +city of the world. + +The Custom House is thought to be one of the finest buildings in the +kingdom. It occupied ten years in its erection. It is composed of three +_façades_, from a rusticated pavement, each having a splendid portico of +eight Ionic columns. The whole is surmounted by a dome, one hundred and +thirty feet high, and the effect of the building is excellent. The glory +of Liverpool is her docks, and a stranger is sure to be pointed to the +great landing stage, an immense floating pier, which was moored into its +present position on the 1st of June, 1847. This stage is five hundred +and seven feet long, and over eighty feet wide. This mass of timber +floats upon pontoons, which have to support more than two thousand tons. +At each end is a light barge. + +In the Clarence dock are to be found the Irish and coasting steamers, +and to the north are the Trafalgar, Victoria, and Waterloo docks; the +Prince's dock, and the Great Prince's dock basin. On the outside of all +these is a fine parade, of about one half a mile, and which affords one +of the most beautiful marine promenades in the world, and gives an +interesting view of the Cheshire shore, opposite the city. The Prince's +dock is five hundred yards long, and one hundred broad. Vessels, on +arriving, discharge on the east side, and take in cargo on the west. +Besides all these there is the Brunswick dock, Queen's dock, Duke's +dock, Salthouse dock, &c. + +The Royal Liverpool Institution is a great benefit to the inhabitants. +It has a good library, fine collections of paintings, and a good museum +of natural history. Many of these paintings belong to the early masters, +and date even before the fifteenth century. We were interested to find +here a complete set of casts of the Elgin marbles. The originals were +the decorations of the Parthenon at Athens, and are now in the British +Museum. As we shall spend some time in that collection, I say no more at +present about these wonderful monuments of genius. The Athenæum and the +Lyceum are both fine buildings, and each has a good library, lecture, +and news rooms. + +We were disappointed at finding the Rev. Dr. Raffles, the most eloquent +preacher of the city, out of town. He was the successor of Spencer, who +was drowned bathing in the Mersey, and his Life by Raffles is one of +deep interest. The great historical name of Liverpool is William Roscoe, +the author of the Lives of Leo X. and the Medici. I must not omit to +tell you that, during our stay, the town was all alive with a regiment +of lancers, just arrived from Ireland, on their way to London. They are +indeed fine-looking fellows, and are mounted on capital horses. I have +watched their evolutions in front of the Adelphi with much pleasure, and +have been amused to notice a collection of the most wretched-looking +boys I ever saw, brought together by the troops. There seems to me more +pauperism this week, in Liverpool, than I ever saw in New York in my +life. + + +Truly yours, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 4. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Does it not seem strange that I am here in London? I can hardly tell +what to write about first. I stand at the door of our hotel and look at +the crowds in the streets, and then at old King Charles, at Charing +Cross, directly across the road, and when I think that this is the old +city where Wat Tyler figured, and Whittington was lord mayor, and Lady +Jane Grey was beheaded, and where the Tower is still to be seen, I am +half beside myself, and want to do nothing but roam about for a good +month to come. I have read so much concerning London, that I am pretty +sure I know more about it than many of the boys who have heard Bow +Church bells all their lives. We left Liverpool for Birmingham, where we +passed an afternoon and evening in the family of a manufacturer very +pleasantly, and at ten o'clock took the express mail train for London. +We are staying at a hotel called the Golden Cross, Charing Cross. We +have our breakfast in the coffee-room, and then dine as it suits our +convenience as to place and hour. We spent one day in riding about the +city, and I think we got quite an idea of the great streets. + +The Strand is a very fine business street, perhaps a mile long. It +widens in one part, and has two churches in the middle of it, and a +narrow street seems built inside it at one place, as nasty, dirty a lane +as I ever saw, called Hollowell Street. I was very much delighted at the +end of the Strand to see old Temple Bar, which is the entrance to the +city proper, and which divides Fleet Street from the Strand. It is a +noble archway, with small side arches for foot passengers. The head of +many a poor fellow, and the quarters of men called traitors, have been +fastened over this gateway in former times. + +Dr. Johnson was once walking in Westminster Abbey with Goldsmith, and as +they were looking at the Poet's Corner, Johnson said to his friend,-- + + "Forsitan et nostrum nomen miscebitur istis." + +When they had walked on to Temple Bar, Goldsmith stopped Johnson, and +pointed to the heads of Fletcher and Townley, hanging above, and slyly +remarked,-- + + "Forsitan et nostrum nomen miscebitur _istis_." + +I suppose you remember that the great dictionary man was a Jacobite in +his heart. + +The present bar was put up in 1670, and was designed by Sir Christopher +Wren. The statues on the sides, which are towards the city, are those of +Queen Elizabeth and James I.; and towards the Strand, those of Charles +I. and Charles II. They stand in niches. + +Whenever the monarch passes into the city, there is much ceremony takes +place at the bar. The gates are closed, a herald sounds a trumpet and +knocks for entrance, the gates are opened, and the lord mayor of London +presents the sword of the city to the sovereign, who returns it to his +lordship. The upper part of the bar is used by Messrs. Childs, the +bankers, as a store room for their past account books. + +Fleet Street is thronged with passengers and carriages of all sorts. +Just a few doors from the bar, on the right-hand side, is a +gayly-painted front, which claims to have been a palace of Henry VIII. +and the residence of Cardinal Wolsey. It is now used as a hair-cutting +shop, up stairs. We went up and examined the panelled ceiling, said to +be just as it used to be. It is certainly very fine, and looks as if it +were as old as the times of bluff Harry. Of course we had our hair cut +in the old palace. + +We followed through Fleet Street, noticing the offices of Punch and the +London Illustrated News, till we came to Ludgate Hill,--rather an +ascent,--which is the direct way to the Cathedral Church of St. Paul's. +It stands directly in front of Ludgate Hill, and the churchyard occupies +a large space, and the streets open on each side, making a sort of +square called Paul's Churchyard, and then at the rear you go into +Cheapside. We looked with interest, I can tell you, at Bow Church, and, +as the old bells were ringing, I tried to listen if I could hear what +Whittington heard once from their tingling--"Turn again, Whittington, +lord mayor, of London." At the end of this street, on the right hand, is +the lord mayor's house, called the Mansion House, and directly in front +of the street, closing it up, and making it break off, is the Royal +Exchange; whilst at the left is the Bank of England. All these are very +noble-looking buildings, and you will hear about them from us as we +examine them in our future walks. We went to the counting-house of +Messrs. Baring & Co., the great merchants and bankers for so many +Americans, and there we found our letters and got some money. Mr. +Sturgis, one of the partners, told us to take the check to the bank, No. +68 Lombard Street, and informed us that was the very house where the +great merchant of Queen Elizabeth's time--Sir Thomas Gresham--used to +live. He built the first London Exchange, and his sign, a large +grasshopper, is still preserved at the bank. On Good Friday we had bunns +for breakfast, with a cross upon them, and they were sold through the +streets by children, crying "One a penny, two a penny, hot cross bunns." +We took a carriage and rode to Camden town to visit a friend; thence we +took the cars, to Hackney, and called on the Rev. Dr. Cox, who some +fifteen years ago made the tour of the United States, and wrote a +volume on our country. We then returned to London, and took our dinner +at the London Coffee House, Ludgate Hill. This has been a very +celebrated house for one hundred years, and figures largely in the books +of travellers fifty years ago. It has a high reputation still, and every +thing was excellent, and the waiting good. You cannot walk about London +without observing how few boys of our age are to be seen in the streets, +and when we asked the reason, we were told that nearly all the lads of +respectable families were sent to boarding schools, and the vacations +only occur at June and December; then the boys return home, and the city +swarms with them at all the places of amusement. We seemed to be objects +of attention, because we wore caps; (here boys all wear hats;) and then +our gilt buttons on blue jackets led many to suppose that we were +midshipmen. The omnibuses are very numerous, and each one has a +conductor, who stands on a high step on the left side of the door, +watching the sidewalks and crying out the destination of the "bus," as +the vehicle is called. There is a continual cry, "Bank, bank," "Cross, +cross," "City, city," &c. I must not forget to tell you one thing; and +that is, London is the place to make a sight-seeing boy very tired, and +I am quite sure that, in ten minutes, I shall be unable to do what I can +now very heartily, viz., assure you that + +I am yours, affectionately, + +GEORGE. + + + + +Letter 5. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +After passing a day or two in a general view of the city, and making +some preliminary arrangements for our future movements, we all called +upon Mr. Lawrence, the minister of our country at the court of St. +James, which expression refers to the appellation of the old palace of +George III. Mr. Lawrence resides in Piccadilly, opposite the St. James's +Park, in a very splendid mansion, which he rents from an English +nobleman, all furnished. We were very kindly received by his excellency, +who expressed much pleasure at seeing his young countrymen coming +abroad, and said he was fond of boys, and liked them as travelling +companions. I handed him a letter of introduction from his brother. Mr. +Lawrence offered us all the facilities in his power to see the sights, +and these are great, for he is furnished by the government of England +with orders which will admit parties to almost every thing in and about +London. Amongst other tickets he gave us the following admissions: to +the Queen's stables, Windsor Castle, Dulwich Gallery, Woolwich Arsenal, +Navy Yard, Sion House, Northumberland House, Houses of Parliament, and, +what we highly valued, an admission to enter the exhibition, which is +yet unfinished, and not open to inspection. + +After leaving the minister, we paid our respects to Mr. Davis, the +secretary of legation, and were kindly received. We walked on from +Piccadilly to the Crystal Palace, passing Apsley House, the residence of +the Duke of Wellington, and soon reached Hyde Park, with its famous +gateway and the far-famed statue of "the duke." As we shall go into some +detailed account of the palace after the exhibition opens, I would only +say, that we were exceedingly surprised and delighted with the building +itself, and were so taken up with that as hardly to look at its +contents, which were now rapidly getting into order. The effect of the +noble elms which are covered up in the palace is very striking and +pleasing, and very naturally suggests the idea that the house would, by +and by, make a glorious green-house for the city, where winter's +discontents might be almost made into a "glorious summer." A poor fellow +was killed here, just before we entered, by falling through the skylight +roof. He was at work on a plank laid across the iron frame, and that +tipping up, threw him on to the glass, and his death was instantaneous. +We are more and more pleased at having so central a domicile as the +Golden Cross, for time is every thing when you have to see sights; and +here we can get to any point we desire by a bus, and obtain a fly at any +moment. Very much that we desire to see, too, is east of Temple Bar, and +our Mentor seems determined that we shall become acquainted with the +London of other times, and we rarely walk out without learning who lived +in "that house," and what event had happened in "that street." I fancy +that we are going to gather up much curious matter for future use and +recollection by our street wanderings. A book called "The Streets of +London" is our frequent study, and is daily consulted with advantage. +To-day we dined at the famous Williams's, in Old Bailey, where boiled +beef is said to be better than at any other place in London. It was +certainly as fine as could be desired. The customers were numerous, and +looked like business men. The proprietor was a busy man, and his eyes +seemed every where. A vision of cockroaches, however, dispelled the +appetite for a dessert, and we perambulated our way to the Monument. +This has a noble appearance, and stands on Fish Street Hill. The pillar +is two hundred and two feet high, and is surmounted by a gilt flame. The +object of the Monument is to commemorate the great fire of London in +Charles II.'s reign. + +It had an inscription which ascribed the origin of the fire to the +Catholics; but recently this has been obliterated. It was to this +inscription and allegation that Pope referred in his lines,-- + + "Where London's column, pointing to the skies, Like a tall bully, + lifts its head, and _lies_." + +There are few things in London that have impressed us more than the +fine, massive bridges which span the Thames, and are so crowded with +foot passengers and carriages. Every boy who has read much has had his +head full of notions about London Bridge; that is, old London Bridge, +which was taken down about thirty years ago. The old bridge was +originally a wooden structure, and on the sides of the bridge were +houses, and the pathway in front had all sorts of goods exposed for +sale, and the Southwark gate of the bridge was disfigured with the heads +and quarters of the poor creatures who were executed for treason. + +The new bridge was commenced in 1825, and it was opened in 1831 by +William IV. and Queen Adelaide. The bridge has five arches; the central +one is one hundred and fifty feet in the clear, the two next one hundred +and forty feet, and the extreme arches one hundred and thirty feet. The +length, including the abutments, is about one thousand feet, its width +eighty-three feet, and the road for carriages fifty-five feet. + +The great roads leading to London Bridge have been most costly affairs; +and I was told that a _parish and its church_ had been destroyed to make +these approaches. The men of different generations, who, for almost one +thousand years, looked at the old bridge, would stare at the present one +and its present vicinity, if they were to come back again. Southwark +Bridge was commenced in 1814, and finished in 1819. It has three arches, +and the central arch is two hundred and forty feet, which is the +greatest span in the world. In this bridge are five thousand three +hundred and eight tons of iron. Blackfriars Bridge was commenced in +1760, and opened in 1770. It has nine elliptical arches, of which the +middle one is one hundred feet in width. Recently this bridge has been +thoroughly repaired. I think this is my favorite stand-point for the +river and city. Nowhere else have I obtained such a view up and down the +river. Here I have a full prospect of the Tower, St. Paul's Cathedral, +Somerset House, the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, and perhaps +twenty-five other churches! But the great bridge of all is the Waterloo +one, commenced in 1811, and opened in 1817, on the 18th of June, the +anniversary of the battle of Waterloo. Of course, the Duke of Wellington +figured upon the occasion. At this point the river is one thousand three +hundred and twenty-six feet wide; and the bridge is of nine elliptical +arches, each of one hundred and twenty feet space, and thirty-five feet +high above high water, and its entire length two thousand four hundred +and fifty-six feet. It is painful to hear the sad stories which have a +connection with this magnificent structure. It seems the chosen resort +of London suicides, and very frequent are the events which almost +justify its appellation--"the Bridge of Sighs." I love to walk this and +the other bridges, and look at the mighty city, and think of its +wonderful history and its existing place in the affairs of the world; +and I cannot help thinking of the reflection of the wise man--"One +generation passeth away, but the earth remaineth." I have never felt my +own insignificance so much, Charley, as when walking in one of these +crowded streets. I know no one; I am unknown; I am in solitude, and feel +it more, perhaps, than I should if alone upon a mountain top or in a +wilderness. I am sure I have told you enough for once, and perhaps you +are as tired of my letter as I was in going over the places I have +written to you about; so I will relieve your patience. + +I am yours always, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 6. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +All round London there are the most exquisite villages or towns, full of +charming retreats, boxes of wealthy tradesmen, and some very fine rows +of brick and stone residences, with gardens in front. I am amused to see +almost every house having a name. Thus you find one house called, on +the gateway, Hamilton Villa, the next Hawthorne Lodge, whilst opposite +their fellows rejoice in the names, Pelham House, Cranborne Cottage; and +so it is with hundreds of neat little domiciles. I think the road up to +St. John's Wood is one of the prettiest I have seen; and there are in it +perhaps two hundred habitations, each having its _sobriquet._ Since +writing to you last we have been to Camberwell, a very pretty place, two +or three miles from the city. We called on a gentleman who had a party +that night, and we were politely invited, and spent an agreeable +evening. The supper was elegant, and the ladies were quite inquisitive +as to our social manners. One gentleman present had a son in Wisconsin, +and he seemed to fancy that, as that state was in the United States, it +was pretty much like the rest of the country. We told him that Wisconsin +was about as much like New York and Massachusetts as Brighton, in 1851, +was like what it was one hundred years ago. When we talk with +well-educated persons here, we are much amused at their entire +unacquaintedness with American geography and history. I think an +importation of Morse's School Geography would be of great service. We +very often lose our patience when we hear about the great danger of life +in America. I find very intelligent and respectable persons who fancy +that life is held by a slight tenure in the Union, and that law and +order are almost unknown. Now, the first week we were in London the +papers teemed with accounts of murders in various parts of England. One +newspaper detailed no less than eleven oases of murder, or executions on +account of murders. Poison, however, seems just at present the +prevailing method by which men and women are removed. + +As to accidents in travel, we, no doubt, have our full share; but since +our arrival in England the railroad trains have had some pretty rough +shakings, and the results in loss of life and limb would have passed for +quite ugly enough, even had they happened in the west. I very much wish +you could have been with us on Easter Monday, when we passed the day at +Greenwich, and were at the renowned Greenwich Fair, which lasts for +three days. The scene of revelry takes place in the Park, a royal one, +and really a noble one. Here all the riff-raff and bobtail of London +repair in their finery, and have a time. You can form no notion of the +affair; it cannot be described. The upper part of the Park, towards the +Royal Observatory, is very steep, and down this boys and girls, men and +women, have a roll. Such scenes as are here to be witnessed we cannot +match. Nothing can exceed the doings that occur. All the public houses +swarm, and in no spot have I ever seen so many places for drinking as +are here. The working-men of London, and apprentices, with wires and +sweethearts, all turn out Easter Monday. It seems as though all the +horses, carts, chaises, and hackney coaches of the city were on the +road. We saw several enormous coal wagons crammed tightly with boys and +girls. On the fine heath, or down, that skirts the Park, are hundreds of +donkeys, and you are invited to take a halfpenny, penny, or twopenny +ride. All sorts of gambling are to be seen. One favorite game with the +youngsters was to have a tobacco box, full of coppers, stuck on a stick +standing in a hole, and then, for a halfpenny paid to the proprietor, +you are entitled to take a shy at the mark. If it falls into the hole, +you lose; if you knock it off, and away from the hole, you take it. It +_requires,_ I fancy, much adroitness and experience to make any thing at +"shying" at the "bacca box." At night, Greenwich is all alive--life is +out of London and in the fair. But let the traveller who has to return +to town beware. The road is full of horses and vehicles, driven by +drunken men and boys; and, for four or five miles, you can imagine that +a city is besieged, and that the inhabitants are flying from the sword. +O, such weary-looking children as we saw that day! One favorite +amusement was to draw a little wooden instrument quick over the coat of +another person, when it produces a noise precisely like that of a torn +garment. Hundreds of these machines were in the hands of the urchins who +crowded the Park. Here, for the first time, I saw the veritable gypsy of +whose race we have read so much in Bòrrow's Zincali. The women are very +fine looking, and some of the girls were exquisitely beautiful. They are +a swarthy-looking set, and seem to be a cross of Indian and Jew. Those +we saw were proper wiry-looking fellows. One or two of the men were +nattily dressed, with fancy silk handkerchiefs. They live in tents, and +migrate through the midland counties, but I believe are not as numerous +as they were thirty years ago. You will not soon forget how we were +pleased with the memoirs of Bamfield Moore Carew, who was once known as +their king in Great Britain. I wonder that book has never been reprinted +in America. I am pretty sure that Greenwich Park would please your +taste. I think the view from the Royal Observatory, and from whence +longitude is reckoned, is one of the grandest I have ever seen. You get +a fine view of the noble palace once the royal residence, but now the +Sailor's Home. You see the Thames, with its immense burden, and, through +the mist, the great city. As to the Hospital, we shall leave that for +another excursion: we came to Greenwich at present merely to witness +Easter Fair, and it will not soon be forgotten by any of us. + +Yours, &c., + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 7. + + +BRISTOL. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +As we had a few days to spare before the exhibition opened, we proposed +to run down to Bristol and Bath, and pass a week. We took the Great +Western train first-class ears, and made the journey of one hundred and +twenty miles in two hours and forty minutes. This is the perfection of +travelling. The cars are very commodious, holding eight persons, each +having a nicely-cushioned chair. The rail is the broad gage; and we +hardly felt the motion, so excellent is the road. The country through +which we passed was very beautiful, and perhaps it never appears to more +advantage than in the gay garniture of spring. We left Windsor Castle to +our left, and Eton College, and passed by Beading, a fine, flourishing +town; and at Swindon we made a stay of ten minutes. The station at this +place is very spacious and elegant. Here the passengers have the only +opportunity to obtain refreshments on the route; and never did people +seem more intent upon laying in provender. The table was finely laid +out, and a great variety tempted the appetite. The railroad company, +when they leased this station, stipulated that every train should pass +ten minutes at it. But the express train claimed exemption, and refused +to afford the time. The landlord prosecuted the company, obtained +satisfactory damages, and now even the express train affords its +passengers time to recruit at Swindon. This place has grown up under the +auspices of the railroad, and one can hardly fancy a prettier place than +environs the station. The cottages are of stone, of the Elizabethan and +Tudor style, and are very numerous; while the church, which is just +finished, is one of the neatest affairs I have yet seen in England. The +town of Swindon is about two miles from the station, and I expect to +visit it in the course of my journey. You know, my dear Charley, how +long and fondly I have anticipated my visit to my native city, and can +imagine my feelings on this route homewards. We passed through Bath, a +most beautiful city, (and I think as beautiful as any I ever saw,) and +then in half an hour we entered Bristol. The splendid station-house of +the railroad was new to me, but the old streets and houses were all +familiar as if they had been left but yesterday. The next morning I +called on my friends, and you may think how sad my disappointment was to +find that a dangerous accident had just placed my nearest relative in +the chamber of painful confinement for probably three months. It was a +pleasant thing to come home to scenes of childhood and youth, and I was +prepared to enjoy every hour; but I soon realized that here all our +roses have thorns. Of course, in Bristol I need no guide; and the boys +are, I assure you, pretty thoroughly fagged out, when night comes, with +our perambulations through the old city and neighborhood. + +Bristol has claims upon the attention of the stranger, not only as one +of the oldest cities in England, but on account of its romantic scenery. +The banks of the Avon are not to be surpassed by the scenes afforded by +any other river of its size in the world. This city was founded by +Brennus, the chieftain of the Gauls and the conqueror of Rome, 388 B.C., +and tradition states that his brother Belinus aided him in the work. The +statues of these worthies are quaintly carved on the gateway of John's +Church, in Broad Street, and are of very great antiquity. In the +earliest writings that bear upon the west of England--the Welsh +Chronicles--this city is called _Caër oder_, which means the city of the +_Chasm_. This the Saxons called _Clifton_. The Avon runs through a +tremendous fissure in the rocks called Vincent's Rocks; and hence the +name given to the suburbs of the city, on its banks--Clifton. Of this +place we shall have much to tell you. Another Welsh name for the city +was _Caër Brito_, or the painted city, or the famous city. Bristol, like +Rome, stands on seven hills, and on every side is surrounded by the most +attractive scenery. It has made quite a figure in history, and its +castle was an object of great importance during the civil wars between +Charles I. and his Parliament. This city stands in two counties, and has +the privileges of one itself. It is partly in Gloucestershire and partly +in Somersetshire. The population of Bristol, with Clifton and the Hot +Wells, is about two hundred thousand. My first excursion with the boys +was to Redcliffe Church, which is thought to be the finest parish church +in England. This is the church where poor Chatterton said that he found +the Rowley MSS. No one of taste visits the city without repairing to +this venerable pile. Its antiquity, beauty of architecture, and the many +interesting events connected with its history, claim particular notice. +This church was probably commenced about the beginning of the thirteenth +century; but it was completed by William Cannynge, Sen., mayor of the +city, in 1396. In 1456, the lofty spire was struck by lightning, and one +hundred feet fell upon the south aisle. The approach from Redcliffe +Street is very impressive. The highly-ornamented tower, the west front +of the church, its unrivalled north porch, and the transept, with flying +buttresses, pinnacles, and parapet, cannot fail to gratify every +beholder. The building stands on a hill, and is approached by a +magnificent flight of steps, guarded by a heavy balustrade. In length, +the church and the Lady Chapel is two hundred and thirty-nine feet; +from north to south of the cross aisles is one hundred and seventeen +feet; the height of the middle aisle is fifty-four, and of the north and +south aisles, twenty-five feet. + +The impression produced on the spectator by the interior is that of awe +and reverence, as he gazes on the clustered pillars, the mullioned +windows, the panelled walls, the groined ceilings, decorated with ribs, +tracery, and bosses, all evincing the skill of its architects and the +wonderful capabilities of the Gothic style. + +The east window and screen have long been hidden by some large paintings +of Hogarth. The subjects of these are the Ascension, the Three Marys at +the Sepulchre, and the High Priest sealing Christ's Tomb. + +On a column in the south transept is a flat slab, with a long +inscription, in memory of Sir William Penn, father of William Penn, the +great founder of Pennsylvania. The column is adorned with his banner and +armor. + +The boys, who had so often read of Guy, Earl of Warwick, and of his +valorous exploits, were greatly pleased to find in this church, placed +against a pillar, a rib of the Dun cow which he is said to have slain. + +You may be very sure that we inquired for the room in which Chatterton +said he found old Monk Rowley's poems. It is an hexagonal room over the +north porch, in which the archives were kept Chatterton's uncle was +sexton of the church; and the boy had access to the building, and +carried off parchments at his pleasure. The idea of making a literary +forgery filled his mind; and if you read Southey and Cottle's edition of +the works of Chatterton, or, what is far better, an admirable Life of +the young poet by John Dix, a gifted son of Bristol, now living in +America, you will have an interesting view of the character of this +remarkable youth. + +[Illustration: Thomas Chatterton.] + +At the east end of the church is the Chapel of the Virgin Mary. A noble +room it is. A large statue of Queen Elizabeth, in wood, stands against +one of the windows, just where it did thirty-seven years ago, when I was +a youngster, and went to her majesty's grammar school, which is taught +in the chapel. I showed the boys the names of my old school-fellows cut +upon the desks. How various their fates! One fine fellow, whose name yet +lives on the wood, found his grave in the West Indies, on a voyage he +had anticipated with great joy. + +I am glad to say that a spirited effort is now making to restore this +gorgeous edifice. It was greatly needed, and was commenced in 1846. I do +wish you could see this church and gaze upon its interior. I have +obtained some fine drawings of parts of the edifice, and they will +enable you to form some faint idea of the splendor of the whole. We have +to dine with a friend, and I must close. + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 8. + + +BRISTOL. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +You have so often expressed a desire to see the fine cathedral churches +and abbeys of the old world, that I shall not apologize for giving you +an account of them; and as they are more in my way, I shall take them +into my hands, and let the lads write you about other things. The next +visit we took, after I wrote you last, was to the cathedral. This is of +great antiquity. In 1148, a monastery was dedicated to St. Augustine. +This good man sent one Jordan as a missionary in 603, and here he +labored faithfully and died. It seems, I think, well sustained that the +venerable Austin himself preached here, and that his celebrated +conference with the British clergy took place on College Green; and it +is thought that the cathedral was built on its site to commemorate the +event. The vicinity of the church is pleasing. The Fitzhardings, the +founders of the Berkeley family, began the foundation of the abbey in +1140, and it was endowed and dedicated in 1148. The tomb of Sir Robert, +the founder, lies at the east of the door, and is enclosed with rails. +Some of the buildings connected with the church are of great antiquity, +and are probably quite as old as the body of the cathedral. A gateway +leading to the cloisters and chapter-house is plainly Saxon, and is +regarded as the finest Saxon archway in England. The western part of the +cathedral was demolished by Henry VIII. The eastern part, which remains, +has a fine Gothic choir. This was created a bishop's see by Henry VIII. +It is interesting to think that Secker, Butler, and Newton have all been +bishops of this diocese, and Warburton, who wrote the Divine Legation of +Moses, was once Dean of Bristol. The immortal Butler, who wrote the +Analogy of Natural and Revealed Religion, lies buried here, and his +tombstone is on the south aisle, at the entrance of the choir. A +splendid monument has been erected to his memory, with the following +inscription from the pen of Robert Southey, himself a Bristolian:-- + + Sacred + to the Memory of + JOSEPH BUTLER, D.C.L., + twelve years Bishop of this Diocese, + afterwards of Durham, whose mortal remains + are here deposited. Others had established + the historical and prophetical grounds of the + Christian Religion, and that true testimony of Truth + which is found in its perfect adaptation to the heart + of man. It was reserved for him to develop its + analogy to the constitution and course of Nature; + and laying his strong foundations + in the depth of that great argument, + there to construct another and + irrefragable proof; thus rendering + Philosophy subservient + to Faith, and finding + in outward and + visible things + the type and evidence of those within the veil. + + Born, A.D. 1693. Died, 1752. + +We noticed a very fine monument by Bacon to the memory of Mrs. Draper, +said to have been the Eliza of Sterne. We hastened to find the +world-renowned tomb of Mrs. Mason, and to read the lines on marble of +that inimitable epitaph, which has acquired a wider circulation than any +other in the world. The lines were written by her husband, the Rev. +William Mason. + + "Take, holy earth, all that my soul holds dear; + Take that best gift which Heaven so lately gave. + To Bristol's fount I bore with trembling care + Her faded form; she bowed to taste the wave, + And died. Does youth, does beauty read the line? + Does sympathetic fear their breasts alarm? + Speak, dead Maria; breathe a strain divine; + E'en from the grave thou shalt have power to charm. + Bid them be chaste, be innocent, like thee; + Bid them in duty's sphere as meekly move; + And if so fair, from vanity as free, + As firm in friendship, and as fond in love,-- + Tell them, though 'tis an awful thing to die, + (Twas e'en to thee,) yet, the dread path once trod, + Heaven lifts its everlasting portals high, + And bids the pure in heart behold their God." + +In the cloisters we saw the tomb of Bird the artist, a royal +academician, and a native of Bristol. We were much interested with a +noble bust of Robert Southey, the poet, which has just been erected in +the north aisle. It stands on an octangular pedestal of gray marble, +with Gothic panels. The bust is of the most exquisitely beautiful +marble. The inscription is in German text. + + Robert Southey, + Born in Bristol, + October 4, 1774; + Died at Reswick, + March 21, 1843. + +[Illustration: Robert Southey] + +The cloisters contain some fine old rooms, which recall the days of the +Tudors. Here we saw the apartments formerly occupied by the learned and +accomplished Dr. Hodges, now organist of Trinity Church, New York. This +gentleman is a native of Bristol, and is held, we find, in respectful +and affectionate remembrance by the best people of this city. + +Opposite to the cathedral, and on the other side of the college green, +is the Mayor's Chapel, where his honor attends divine service. In +Catholic days, this was the Church and Hospital of the Virgin Mary. This +edifice was built by one Maurice de Gaunt in the thirteenth century. +Under the tower at the east front is a small door, by which you enter +the church, and on the north another, by which you enter a small room, +formerly a confessional, with two arches in the walls for the priest and +the penitent. In this room are eight niches, in which images once stood. +The roof is vaulted with freestone, in the centre of which are two +curious shields and many coats of arms. In 1830, this chapel was +restored and beautified. A fine painted window was added, and the altar +screen restored to its former beauty, at the expense of the corporation. +The front of the organ gallery is very rich in Gothic moulding, tracery, +crockets, &c. It is flanked at the angles with octagonal turrets, of +singular beauty, embattled, and surmounted with canopies, crockets, &c. +The spandrils, quatrefoils, buttresses, sculptures, and cornices are +exceedingly admired. The pulpit is of stone, and the mayor's throne, of +carved oak, is of elaborate finish. Here are two knights in armor, with +their right hands on their sword hilts, on the left their shields, _with +their legs crossed,_ which indicates that they were crusaders. + +In every excursion around Bristol, the boys were struck with the fact +that an old tower was visible on a high hill. The hill is called Dundry, +and it is said that it can be seen every where for a circle of five +miles round the city. Dundry is five miles from Bristol, and fourteen +from Bath, and it commands the most beautiful and extensive prospect in +the west of England. We rode out to it with an early friend of mine, who +is now the leading medical man of Bristol; and when I tell you that we +went in an Irish jaunting car, you may guess that we were amused. The +seats are at the sides, and George was in ecstasies at the novelty of +the vehicle. When oh the summit, we saw at the north and east the cities +of Bath and Bristol, and our view included the hills of Wiltshire, and +the Malvern Hills of Worcestershire. The Severn, from north to west, is +seen, embracing the Welsh coast, and beyond are the far-famed mountains +of Wales. The church has a fine tower, with turreted pinnacles fifteen +feet above the battlements. We rode over to Chew Magna, a village two +miles beyond Dundry. Here I went to a boarding school thirty-eight +years ago, and I returned to the village for the first time. It had +altered but little. The streets seemed narrower; but there was the old +tower where I had played fives, and there was the cottage where I bought +fruit; and when I entered it, Charley, I found "young Mr. Batt"-a man of +eighty-six. His father used to be "old Mr. Batt," and he always called +his son his "boy," and we boys termed him "young Mr. Batt." I came back +and found him eighty-six. So do years fly away. I called on one old +school-fellow, some years my junior. He did not recognize me, but I at +once remembered him. We partook of a lunch at his house. I was sadly +disappointed to find the old boarding school gone, but was not a little +relieved when I heard that it had given place to a Baptist church. I +confess I should have liked to occupy its pulpit for one Sabbath day. +To-morrow we are to spend at Clifton, the beautiful environ of Bristol, +and shall most likely write you again. + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 9. + + +BRISTOL. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Clifton and the Hot Wells are the suburbs of this city, extending along +for a mile or two on the banks of the Avon. One mile below the city the +Avon passes between the rocks which are known as St. Vincent's on the +one side, and Leigh Woods upon the opposite one. These rocks are amongst +the sublimities of nature, and the Avon for about three miles presents +the wildest and sweetest bit of scenery imaginable. These cliffs have +been for ages the admiration of all beholders, and though thousands of +tons are taken from the quarries every year, yet the inhabitants say +that no great change takes place in their appearance. The Avon has a +prodigious rise of tide at Bristol, and at low water the bed of the +river is a mere brook, with immense banks of mud. The country all around +is exquisitely attractive, and affords us an idea of cultivation and +adornment beyond what we are accustomed to at home. In these rocks are +found fine crystals, which are known every where as Bristol diamonds. We +obtained some specimens, which reminded us of the crystals so frequently +seen at Little Falls, on the Mohawk. The great celebrity of the Hot +Wells is chiefly owing to a hot spring, which issues from the rock, and +possesses valuable medical qualities. + +This spring had a reputation as early as 1480. It discharges about forty +gallons per minute, and was first brought into notice by sailors, who +found it useful for scorbutic disorders. In 1680 it became famous, and a +wealthy merchant rendered it so by a dream. He was afflicted with +diabetes, and dreamed that he was cured by drinking the water of this +spring. He resorted to the imagined remedy, and soon recovered. Its fame +now spread, and, in 1690, the corporation of Bristol took charge of the +spring. We found the water, fresh from the spring, at the temperature of +Fahrenheit 76°. It contains free carbonic acid gas. Its use is seen +chiefly in cases of pulmonary consumption. I suppose it has wrought +wonders in threatening cases. It is the place for an _invalid_ who +_begins to fear_, but it is not possible to "create a soul under the +ribs of death." Unhappily, people in sickness too seldom repair to such +aid as may here be found till the last chances of recovery are +exhausted. I have never seen a spot where I thought the fragile and +delicate in constitution might pass a winter, sheltered from every +storm, more securely than in this place. Tie houses for accommodation +are without end, both at the Hot Wells and at Clifton. This last place +is on the high ground, ascending up to the summit of the rocks, where +you enter on a noble campus known as Durdham Down. This extends for some +three or four miles, and is skirted by charming villages, which render +the environs of Bristol so far-famed for beauty. + +I never wished to have your company more than when we all ascended the +height of St. Vincent's Rocks. The elevation at which we stood was about +three hundred and fifty feet above the winding river which, it is +thought, by some sudden convulsion of nature, turned from the moors _of_ +Somersetshire, its old passage to the sea, and forced an abrupt one +between the rocks and the woods; and the corresponding dip of the +strata, the cavities on one side, and projections on the other, make the +supposition very plausible. A suspension bridge over this awful chasm is +in progress. + +The celebrated pulpit orator, Robert Hall, always spoke of the scenery +of this region as having done very much in his early days to form his +notions of the beautiful. In one of his most admirable sermons, preached +at Bristol, when discoursing upon "the new heavens and the new earth," +he indulged in an astonishing outbreak of eloquence, while he conducted +his audience to the surpassing beauties of their own vicinage, +sin-ruined as it was, and then supposed that this earth might become the +dwelling-place of the redeemed, when, having been purified from all +evil, it should again become "very good." Here, on these scenes of +unrivalled beauty, Southey, and Lovell, and Coleridge, and Cottle have +loved to meditate; and the wondrous boy Chatterton fed his muse amid +these rare exhibitions of the power and wisdom of the Godhead. A Roman +encampment is still visible on the summit of the rocks. We were all +sorry, to see such havoc going on among the quarries, where, to use +Southey's language on this subject, they are "selling off the sublime +and beautiful by the boat load." + +[Illustration: Samuel Taylor Coleridge.] + +Our favorite walk is on the downs. George seems really penetrated with +the uncommon beauty of the region, and wants to stop as long as +possible, and does not believe any thing can be more beautiful. We look +over the awful cliffs--gaze on the thread of water winding its devious +course at an immense distance below--watch the steamers from Wales and +Ireland shoot up to the city, and the noble West Indiamen, as they are +towed along. The woods opposite are charming, and contain nearly every +forest-tree belonging to the country. Dr. Holland, in his travels +through Greece, refers to this very spot in the following language: "The +features of nature are often best described by comparison; and to those +who have visited Vincent's Rocks, below Bristol, I cannot convey a more +sufficient idea of the far-famed Vale of Tempe than by saying that its +scenery resembles, though on a much larger scale, that of the former +place. The Peneus, indeed, as it flows through the valley, is not +greatly wider than the Avon, and the channel between the cliffs +irregularly contracted in its dimensions; but these cliffs themselves +are much loftier and more precipitous, and project their vast masses of +rock with still more extraordinary abruptness over the hollow beneath." +We devoted a morning to visit Leigh Court, the residence of Mr. Miles, a +wealthy merchant and member in Parliament for Bristol. This is regarded +as one of the finest residences in the west of England. The mansion has +an Ionic portico, supported by massive columns. The great hall is very +extensive. A double flight of steps leads you to a peristyle of the +Ionic order, around which are twenty marble columns, supporting a lofty +dome, lighted by painted glass. The floor is of colored marble. This +residence has been enriched with the choicest treasures from Wanstead +House, and Fonthill Abbey. To us the grand attraction was the Picture +Gallery, which has few superiors in the kingdom. A catalogue, with +etchings, was published a few years ago. You may judge of the merits of +the collection, and the nature of our gratification, when I tell you +that here are the Conversion of Paul, by Rubens; the Graces, by Titian; +William Tell, by Holbein; Pope Julius II., by Raphael; Ecce Homo, by +Carl Dolci; Head of the Virgin, by Correggio; St. Peter, by Guido; St. +John, by Domenichino; Creator Mundi, by Leonardo da Vinci; Crucifixion, +by Michael Angelo; Plague of Athens, by N. Poussin; three Seaports, by +Claude; and a large number by Rembrandt, Salvator Rosa, Paul Potter, +Parmegiano, Velasques, Gerard Dow, &c. This has been a most gratifying +excursion, and our visit here will be a matter of pleasant recollection. +I forgot to say that at Clifton, and at various places near the rocks, +we were beset by men, women, and children, having very beautiful +polished specimens of the various stones found in the quarries, together +with minerals and petrifactions. Of these we all obtained an assortment. + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 10. + + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We have while at Bristol made two journeys to Bath, and I am sure we are +all of opinion that it is the most elegant city we ever saw. A great +deal of its beauty is owing to the fine freestone of which it is chiefly +built. + +We were much pleased with the Royal Crescent, which consists of a large +number of elegant mansions, all built in the same style. Ionic columns +rise from a rustic basement, and support the superior cornice. These +houses are most elegantly finished. All the city is seen from the +crescent, and no other spot affords so grand a prospect. Camden Place is +an elliptical range of edifices, commanding an extensive view of the +valley, with the winding stream of the Avon, and the villages upon its +banks. One of the principal features of Bath is its hills and downs, +which shelter it on every side. The sides on these downs are very fine, +extending for miles, and you see thousands of sheep enjoying the finest +possible pasturage. Talking of sheep, I am reminded how very fine the +sheep are here; it seems to me they are almost as big again as our +mutton-makers. + +Queen Square, in Bath, pleases us all, as we are told it does every one. +It stands up high, and is seen from most parts of the city. From north +to south, between the buildings, if is three hundred and sixteen feet, +and from east to west three hundred and six feet. In the centre is an +enclosure, and in that is a fine obelisk. The north side of the square +is composed of stately dwellings, and they have all the appearance of a +palace. The square is built of freestone, and is beautifully tinted by +age. The first thing almost we want to see in these fine towns is the +cathedral, if there be one. I never thought that I should be so pleased +with old buildings as I find I am. Old houses, castles, and churches +have somehow strangely taken my fancy. The Cathedral, or, as they here +call it, the Abbey Church, is a noble one. It was begun in 1495, and +only finished in 1606, and stands on the foundation of an old convent, +erected by Osric in 676. It is famous for its clustered columns, and +wide, elegantly arched windows. The roof is remarkable for having +fifty-two windows, and I believe has been called the Lantern of England. +You know that the city takes its name from its baths. The great resort +of fashion is at the Pump-room and the Colonnade. This building is +eighty-five feet in length, forty-six wide, and thirty-four high. This +elegant room is open to the sick of every part of the world. An +excellent band plays every day from one till half past three. + +The King's Bath is a basin sixty-six feet by forty-one, and will contain +three hundred and forty-six tuns. I have been much pleased with Dr. +Granville's works on the Spas of England, and there you will find much +interesting matter respecting Bath. + +We made some pleasant excursions in the vicinity of this beautiful city. +We have visited Bradford, Trowbridge, and Devizes. Trowbridge is a fine +old town, and we looked with interest at the church where the poet +Crabbe so long officiated. His reputation here stands high as a good man +and kind neighbor, but he was called a poor preacher. Here, and in all +the neighboring places, the manufacture of broadcloths and cassimeres is +carried on extensively. Devizes is a charming old town. We were greatly +interested with its market-place, and a fine cross, erected to hand down +the history of a sad event. A woman who had appealed to God in support +of a lie was here struck dead upon the spot, and the money which she +said she had paid for some wheat was found clinched in her hand. This +monument was built by Lord Sidmouth, and is a fine freestone edifice, +with a suitable inscription. + +Roundaway Down, which hangs over this ancient town, was famous in the +civil wars of Charles I. Here, too, are the relics of an old castle. +Devizes has two great cattle fairs, in spring and autumn; and the market +day, on Thursday, gave us a good idea of the rural population. We have +rarely seen finer looking men than were here to be seen around their +wheat, barley, and oats. We have been pleased to see the great English +game of cricket, which is so universally played by all young men in this +country. It seems to us that the boys here have more athletic games than +with us. Prisoners' bass seems a favorite boys' amusement, and ninepins, +or, as we call it, bowls, are played by all classes freely, and it is +not regarded as at all unministerial. We are going to London this week, +and shall commence sight-seeing in earnest. Above all, we are to be at +the exhibition. When I have seen the lions, I will write you again. + +Yours affectionately, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 11. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +The story goes that Mr. Webster, when he first arrived in London, +ordered the man to drive to the Tower. Certainly we boys all wanted to +go there as soon as possible. I do not think that I ever felt quite so +touch excitement as I did when we were riding to the Tower, I had so +many things crowding into my mind; and all the history of England with +which I have been so pleased came at once freshly into my memory. I +wanted to be alone, and have all day to wander up and down the old +prison and palace and museum, for it has been all these things by turns. +Well, we rode over Tower Hill, and got directly in front of the old +fortress, and had a complete view of it. + +In the centre stands a lofty square building, with four white towers, +having vanes upon them. This is said to be the work of William the +Conqueror, but has had many alterations under William Rufus, Henry I., +and Henry II. In 1315, the Tower was besieged by the barons who made war +on John. Henry III. made his residence in this place, and did much to +strengthen and adorn it. About this time the Tower began to be used as a +state prison. Edward I. enlarged the ditch or moat which surrounded the +Tower. In the days of Richard II., when the king had his troubles with +Wat Tyler, the Archbishop of Canterbury was beheaded on Tower Hill, or, +rather, massacred, for it said that he was mangled by eight strokes of +the axe. When Henry V. gained his great victory at Agincourt, he placed +his French prisoners here. Henry VIII. was here for some time after he +came to the throne, and he made his yeomen the wardens of the Tower, +and they still wear the same dress as at that day. The dress is very +rich,--scarlet and gold,--and made very large; the coat short, and +sleeves full. The head-dress is a cap. + +We went in at what is called the Lion's Gate, because some time back the +menagerie was kept in apartments close by. The kings of other days used +to have fights between the beasts, and James I. was very fond of combats +between lions and dogs in presence of his court. All these animals were +moved several years ago to the Zoölogical Gardens. We passed through +strong gates, defended by a portcullis, and on our left we saw what the +warden called the Bell Tower, and which was the prison of Bishop Fisher, +who was beheaded for not acknowledging Henry VIII. to be the head of the +church. I wanted to see the Traitor's Gate, and found it was on the +right hand, having a communication with the Thames under a bridge on the +wharf. Through this passage it was formerly the custom to convey the +state prisoners, and many a man in passing this gate bade farewell to +hope. + +There is, just opposite to this gate, the bloody tower where Edward V. +and his brother were put to death by the monster Richard, who usurped +the throne. I would have given a great deal to have explored the Tower, +but the things and places I wanted to look into were just what you are +not let see. The old Tower of English history you look at, but must not +go through. Still I have been delighted, but not satisfied. We found the +spot where the grand storehouse and armory were burnt in 1841, and, if I +recollect rightly, the warden said it was three hundred and fifty feet +long, and sixty wide. Here, I suppose, was the finest collection of +cannon and small fire-arms in the world. We saw some few fine specimens +that were saved. Of course, we were curious to see the Horse Armory. +This is a room one hundred and fifty feet in length, and about +thirty-five wide. Some one has said that here is "the History of +England, done in iron." All down the middle of the room is a line of +equestrian figures, and over each character is his banner. All the sides +of the apartment are decorated with trophies and figures in armor. I was +much gratified with the beautiful taste displayed in the arrangement of +the arms upon the walls and ceiling. Some of the suits of armor were +very rich, and answered exactly to my notions of such matters. Here I +saw, for the first time, the coat of mail; and I think the men of that +day must have been stronger than those of our time, or they never could +have endured such trappings. I was much pleased with the real armor of +Henry VIII. This suit was very rich, and damasked. And here, too, was +the very armor of Dudley, Earl of Leicester, who figured at the court +of Elizabeth. It weighs eighty-seven pounds; and close by it is the +martial suit of the unfortunate Essex. He was executed, you know, at +this place, 1601. Among the most beautiful armors we saw were the suits +of Charles I. and a small one which belonged to his younger brother when +a lad. I think one suit made for Charles when a boy of twelve would have +fitted me exactly; and wouldn't I have liked to become its owner! King +Charles's armor was a present from the city of London, and was one of +the latest manufactured in England. + +I do not think I ever was in a place that so delighted me. I cannot tell +you a hundredth part of the curiosities that are to be seen s all sorts +of rude ancient weapons; several instruments of torture prepared by the +Roman Catholics, at the time of the Spanish Armada, for the conversion +of the English heretics. One of these was the Iron Collar, which weighs +about fifteen pounds, and has a rim of inward spikes; and besides, we +saw a barbarous instrument, called the Scavenger's Daughter, which +packed up the body and limbs into an inconceivably small space. We +looked with deep interest, you may imagine, Charley, on the block on +which the Scotch lords, Balmerino, Kilmarnook, and Lovat, were beheaded +in 1746. The fatal marks upon the wood are deeply cut; and we had in our +hands the axe which was used at the execution of the Earl of Essex. I +shall read the history of this country, I am sure, with more pleasure +than ever, after walking over the yard and Tower Hill, where so many +great and good, as well as so many infamous, persons have suffered +death. Only think what a list of names to be connected with the +block--Fisher, More, Queen Anne Boleyn, Queen Catherine Howard, +Margaret, Countess of Salisbury, Cromwell and Devereux, both Earls of +Essex, the Duke of Somerset, Lady Jane Grey and her husband, the Duke of +Northumberland, Sir Walter Raleigh, Strafford, Laud,--all perished on +the Tower Green or on the Tower Hill. The spot is easily recognized +where the scaffold was erected. + +The regalia, or crown jewels, are kept in an apartment built on purpose +to contain these precious treasures. Here are the crowns that once +belonged to different sovereigns and heirs of the throne. At the death +of Charles I., the crown in use, and said to be as old as the times of +Edward the Confessor, was broken up, and a new one made at the +restoration of Charles II. The arches of this crown are covered with +large stones of different colors, and the cap of the crown is of purple +velvet. The old crown for the queen is of gold, set with diamonds of +great cost, and has some large pearls. There is a crown called "the +Diadem," which was made for James II.'s queen, adorned with diamonds, +and which cost just about half a million of dollars. The crown of the +Prince of Wales is plain gold. + +As for orbs, staffs, and sceptres, I can't tell you half the number. One +I noticed called "St. Edward's Staff," of gold, four feet seven inches +long. At the top is an orb and cross, and a fragment of the Savior's +cross is _said_ to be in the orb. Here, too, are all kinds of +swords--called swords of justice and mercy--and vessels to hold the oil +for anointing the monarch at coronation, and a saltcellar of gold which +is used at the same time, and is a model of the Tower. I thought all +this very fine; but I was most pleased with seeing such splendid +specimens of precious stones. Such diamonds, pearls, amethysts, +emeralds, &c., &c., we Yankee boys had never seen, and probably may +never see again. I was very much delighted with a large silver wine +fountain, presented by Plymouth to Charles II., and which is used at +coronation banquets; and also with the font, of silver gilt; used at the +baptism of the Queen. It stands about four feet high. Over all this show +that I have told you of is the state crown made for Victoria. This is +very brilliant, and in the centre of the diamond cross is a sparkling +sapphire, while in front of the crown is a large ruby which was worn by +the Black Prince. Well, Charley, my boy, I would rather go to +Washington and look at our old copy of the Declaration of Independence +than gaze for a whole day at this vast collection of treasure. There is +more to be proud of in that old camp equipage of Washington's up in the +patent office than in all the crown jewels of England--at least, so I +think, and so do you. + +Yours affectionately, + +GEORGE. + + + + +Letter 12. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +George has said his say about the Tower, he tells me; and I assure you +it was a time that we shall often think of when we get back. On our +return, the doctor proposed that we should visit the Thames Tunnel, +which was not far off; and so we went through a number of poor streets, +reminding us of the oldest parts of Boston round Faneuil Hall. The +tunnel connects Rotherhithe and Wapping. This last place, you know, we +have read about enough in Dibdin's Sea Songs, our old favorite. + +Several notions about this great idea have been entertained in past +years; but in 1814, Brunei, the great engineer, noticed the work of a +worm on a vessel's keel, where it had sawn its way longitudinally, and +he caught an idea. In 1833, he formed a "Thames Tunnel Company," and in +1825 he commenced operations, but it was not opened till 1843 for +passengers. There are no carriage approaches to it, and it is only +available to foot travellers. The ascent and descent is by shafts of, +perhaps, one hundred steps. I think I heard that the great work cost the +company, and government, who helped them, about half a million sterling. +The passages are all lighted up with gas, and in the way you find raree +shows of a dioramic character, and plenty of music, and not a few +venders of views and models of the tunnel. After leaving this river +curiosity, we went to see the new Houses of Parliament, which run along +the banks of the river, in close neighborhood to Westminster Abbey. I +felt disappointed at the first view, it is altogether so much like a +very large pasteboard model--such a thing as you often see in ladies' +fairs for charity. To my notion, the affair wants character; it is all +beautiful detail. The length is about oho thousand feet. The clock tower +is to be three hundred and twenty feet high. It is vain to describe the +building, which is far too immense and complicated for my pea. I never +was so bewildered in a place before. As I think you would like to have a +correct idea of the House of Lords, I will quote from the description +which was handed us on entering, but even then you will fail to +understand its gorgeous character. + +"Its length is ninety feet; height, forty-five feet, and width the +same; so that it is a double cube. It is lighted by twelve windows, six +on each side, each of which is divided by mullions into four, these +being intersected by a transom, making eight lights in each window, +which are made of stained glass, representing the kings and queens, +consort and regnant, since the Conquest. The ceiling is flat, and +divided into eighteen large compartments, which are subdivided by +smaller ribs into four, having at the intersection lozenge-shaped +compartments. The centre of the south end is occupied by the throne, +each side of which are doors opening into the Victoria Lobby. The throne +is elevated on steps. The canopy is divided into three compartments, the +centre one rising higher than the others, and having under it the royal +chair, which is a brilliant piece of workmanship; studded round the back +with crystals. The shape of the chair is similar in outline to that in +which the monarchs have been crowned, and which is in Westminster Abbey, +but, of course, widely different in detail and decoration. On each side +of this chair are others for Prince Albert and the Prince of Wales. At +the north end is the bar of the house, where appeals are heard, and the +Commons assemble when summoned on the occasion of the opening of +Parliament. Above the bar is the reporters' gallery, behind which is the +strangers', and round the sides of the House is another gallery, +intended for the use of peeresses, &c., on state occasions. + +"At the north and south ends of the house, above the gallery, are three +compartments, corresponding in size and shape to the windows, and +containing fresco paintings. Those at the north end are 'the Spirit of +Religion,' by J.C. Horsley; 'the Spirit of Chivalry' and 'the Spirit of +Justice,' by D. Maclise, R.A. Those at the south end, over the throne, +are 'the Baptism of Ethelbert,' by Dyce; 'Edward III. conferring the +Order of the Garter on the Black Prince,' and 'the Committal of Prince +Henry by Judge Gascoigne,' by C.W. Cope, R.A. Between the windows are +richly-decorated niches and canopies, which are to have bronze statues +in them. In casting the eye round the whole room, it is almost +impossible to detect scarcely a square inch which is not either carved +or gilded. The ceiling, with its massive gilded and decorated panels, +presents a most imposing and gorgeous effect, and one of truly royal +splendor. The St. Stephen's Hall is ninety-five feet long, thirty feet +wide, and sixty feet high; the roof is stone-groined, springing from +clustered columns running up the side of the hall. The bosses, at the +intersections of the main ribs, are carved in high relief, with +incidents descriptive of the life of Stephen. + +"This hall leads through a lofty archway into the central hall, which +is octagon in plan, having columns at the angles, from which spring ribs +forming a grand stone groin finishing in the centre, with an octagon +lantern, the bosses at the intersections of all the ribs elaborately +carved. The size of this hall is sixty-eight feet in diameter, and it is +sixty feet to the crown of the groin." + +The House of Commons, which is now in the course of completion, is quite +a contrast to the splendor of the House of Lords. Its length is +eighty-four feet; width, forty-five feet; and height, forty-three feet. +An oak gallery runs all round the house, supported by posts at +intervals, having carved heads, and spandrills supporting the main ribs. +The strangers' gallery is at the south end, in front of which is the +speaker's order gallery. At the north end is the reporters' gallery, +over which is the ladies' gallery--being behind a stone screen. The +libraries are fine rooms, looking out on the river. I have no time to +tell you of the beautiful refreshment rooms, excepting to say that the +one for the peers is one hundred feet long. I must not forget to say +that in the tower is to be a wondrous clock, the dial of which is to be +thirty feet in diameter! We went to see these buildings by an order from +the lord chamberlain. The total cost is estimated at between eight and +ten millions of dollars. It certainly is very rich, and looks finely +from the river; but it is unfortunately too near to the abbey, and wants +force. After leaving the Houses of Parliament, we went to Westminster +Hall, which has some of the finest historical recollections connected +with any public building in England. Really, I felt more awe in entering +this hall than I ever remember to have experienced. I cannot tell you +the size of it, but it is the largest room in Europe without a support, +and the span of the roof is the widest known. The roof, of chestnut, is +exceedingly fine. Only think, my dear fellow, what events have +transpired on this spot. The following trials took place here: Stafford, +Duke of Buckingham, for high treason, 1521; Sir Thomas More, 1535; Duke +of Somerset, for treason, 1552; Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, for his +attachment to Mary, Queen of Scots; Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex, +1601, and Earl of Southampton; Guy Fawkes and the Gun-powder Plot +conspirators; Robert Carr, Earl of Southampton, and his countess, for +murder of Sir Thomas Overbury, 1616; Wentworth, Earl of Strafford, 1641; +Archbishop Laud; Charles I., for his attacks upon the liberties of his +country, 1649; the seven bishops, in the reign of James II.; Dr. +Sacheverel, 1710; in 1716, the Earls Derwentwater, Nithisdale, and +Carnwath, and the Lords Widdington, Kenmure, and Nairn, for the +rebellion of 1715; Harley, Earl of Oxford, 1717; the Earls Cromartie +and Kilmarnock, and Lord Balmerino, 1746, for the rebellion of 1745; +Lord Lovat, 1747; William Lord Byron, for the death of William Chaworth +in a bloody duel, 1765; Lord Ferrers, for the murder of his steward; the +infamous Duchess of Kingston, for bigamy, 1776; and Warren Hastings, for +cruelty in his office as Governor of India, 1788. + +And besides all this, here have been the coronation feasts of all +England's monarchs, from William Rufus, who built it in 1099, down to +George IV., 1820. Sad times and merry ones have been here. We stepped +from the hall into the courts of law, which have entrances from this +apartment, and we saw the lord chancellor on the bench in one, and the +judges sitting in another. The courts were small, and not very imposing +in their appearance. + +Yours truly, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 13. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +O, we have had a noble treat; and how I longed for your company, as we +spent hour after hour in the British Museum. The building is very fine, +but the inside--that is every thing. The entire front is, I think, about +four hundred feet, and I reckoned forty-four columns forming a +colonnade; these are forty-five feet high. The portico is now receiving +magnificent sculpture in relief; and when the whole is finished, and the +colossal statues surmount the pediment, and the fine iron palisadoes, +now erecting, are completed, I think the edifice will be among the +finest in the world. The entrance hall is most imposing, and the ceiling +is richly painted in encaustic. The staircases are very grand, and their +side walls are cased with red Aberdeen granite, brought to an exquisite +polish. To describe the British Museum would be a vain attempt. In the +hall are several fine statues. Especially did we admire the one of +Shakspeare by Roubilliac, and given by Garrick. We soon found our way to +the Nineveh Gallery, and were wide awake to look after the relics of +Nineveh dug up by Layard on the banks of the Tigris. Here is a monstrous +human head, having bull's horns and ears, many fragments of horses' +heads, bulls, &c., &c. The colossal figure of the king is very grand, +and discovers great art. There is also a fine colossal priest, and the +war sculptures are of the deepest interest. Then we went to the Lycian +Room. The sculptures here were found at Xanthus, in Lycia. These ruins +claim a date of five hundred years before Christ. Here are some +exquisite fragments of frieze, describing processions, entertainments, +sacrifices, and female figures of great beauty. + +In the Grand Saloon are numerous Roman remains of sculpture. In the +Phigalian Saloon are marbles found at a temple of Apollo, near Phigalia, +in Arcadia, in 1814. The Elgin Saloon is devoted to the magnificent +marbles taken in 1804, from temples at Athens, by the Earl of Elgin, and +were purchased by Parliament for thirty-five thousand pounds. They are +chiefly ornaments from the Parthenon, a Doric temple built in the time +of Pericles, B.C. 450, by Phidias. No one can fail to be impressed with +the great beauty of these conceptions. The famous Sigean inscription is +written in the most ancient of Greek letters, boustrophedon-wise; that +is, the lines follow each other as oxen turn from one furrow to another +in ploughing. + +There are five galleries devoted to natural history, and are named thus: +the Botanical Museum, Mammalia Gallery, Eastern Zoölogical Gallery, +Northern Zoölogical Gallery, and the Mineral Gallery. The specimens in +all these are very fine. Nothing can be finer than the mammalia. The +preservation has been perfect, and far surpasses what I have been +accustomed to see in museums, where decay seems to be often rioting upon +the remains of nature. The department of ornithology is wonderful, and I +could have enjoyed a whole day in examining the birds of all climates. +In conchology the collection is very rich. I do not often get such a +gratification as I had among the portraits which are hanging on the +walls of these galleries. The very men I had heard so much of, and read +about, were here lifelike, painted by the best artists of their day. I +was much pleased with the picture of Mary, Queen of Scots, by Jansen; of +Cromwell, by Walker; of Queen Elizabeth, by Zucchero; of Charles II., by +Lely; of Sir Isaac Newton; of Lord Bacon; of Voltaire; of John +Guttenburg; and of Archbishop Cranmer. As to the library and the MSS., +what shall I say? The collection of books is the largest in the kingdom, +and valuable beyond calculation. It amounts to seven hundred thousand. +We looked at illuminated gospels, Bibles, missals, till we were +bewildered with the gold and purple splendor; and then we walked from +one glass case to another, gazing upon autographs that made us +heart-sick when we thought of our juvenile treasures in this line. If +ever I did covet any thing, it was some old scraps of paper which had +the handwriting of Milton, Cromwell, Luther, Melancthon, Erasmus, and a +long _et cætera_ of such worthies. You know how much we love medals and +coins; well, here we revelled to our heart's delight. Country after +country has its history here, beautifully illustrated. The museum has +two spacious rooms devoted to reading, and the access to these treasures +is very liberal. + +If I could stay in London one year, I should certainly propose to spend +three or four months in study and research at the British Museum; nor do +I imagine that it would be lost time. It seems to me that such a place +must make scholars; but I know, by my own painful recollection, that +opportunities for improvement are not always valued as they should be. I +have been much struck lately with the thought that men of leisure are +not the men who do much in literature. It never has been so. Here and +there a rich man cultivates his mind; but it is your busy men who leave +the mark upon the age. + +While in the museum, we were shown Lord Chief Justice Campbell, the +author of the Lives of the Chancellors, &c. He is a working-man, if +there be one in England, and yet he finds time to elaborate volume upon +volume. I feel ashamed when I think how little I have acquired, how very +little I know that I might have understood, and what immensely larger +acquisitions have been made by those who have never enjoyed half my +advantages. There is a boy, only fifteen, who resorts to this museum, +and is said to understand its contents better than most of its visitors; +and a livery servant, some few years ago, used to spend all his hours of +leisure here, and wrote some excellent papers upon historical subjects. +If I have gained any good by my journey yet, it is the conviction, I +feel growing stronger every day, that I must work, and that every one +must work, in order to excel. It seems to me that we are in a fair way +to learn much in our present tour, for every day's excursion becomes a +matter of regular study when we come to our journal, which is now kept +posted up daily, as a thing of course. We are trying, at all events, to +make ourselves so familiar with the great attractions of London, that in +future life we may understand the affairs of the city when we hear of +them. + +Yours affectionately, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 14. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Ever since we reached London, I have wanted to go to Woolwich, the great +naval arsenal and dockyard, because I expected I should obtain a pretty +good idea of the power of the British navy; and then I like to compare +such places with our own; and I have often, at Brooklyn Navy Yard, +thought how much I should like to see Woolwich. Woolwich is one the +Thames, and about ten miles from the city. You can go at any hour by +steamer from London Bridge, or take the railway from the Surrey side of +the bridge. We were furnished with a ticket of admission from our +minister; but unfortunately, we came on a day when the yard was closed +by order. We were sadly disappointed, but the doorkeeper, a very +respectable police officer, told us that our only recourse was to call +on the commanding officer, who lived a mile off, and he kindly gave us a +policeman as a guide. On our way, we met the general on horseback, +attended by some other officers. We accosted him, and told our case. He +seemed sorry, but said the yard was closed. As soon as we mentioned that +we came from America, he at once gave orders for our admission, and was +very polite. Indeed, on several occasions we have found that our being +from the United States has proved quite a passport. + +We had a special government order to go over all the workshops and see +the steam power, &c., &c. I think I shall not soon forget the wonderful +smithery where the Nasmyth hammers are at work, employed in forging +chain cables and all sorts of iron work for the men-of-war. We went in +succession through the founderies for iron and brass, the steam boiler +manufactory, and saw the planing machines and lathes; and as to all the +other shops and factories, I can only say, that the yard looked like a +city. + +We were much pleased with the ships now in progress. One was the screw +steamer, the Agamemnon, to have eighty-guns. There, too, is the Royal +Albert, of one hundred and twenty guns, which they call the largest ship +in the world. Of course, we think this doubtful. It has been nine years +in progress, and will not be finished for three more. It is to be +launched when the Prince of Wales attains the rank of post captain. We +saw, among many other curiosities, the boat in which Sir John Ross was +out twenty-seven days in the ice. We went into an immense building +devoted to military stores, and in one room we saw the entire +accoutrements for ten thousand cavalry, including bridles, saddles, and +stirrups, holsters, &c. + +The yard is a very large affair, containing very many acres; it is the +depository of the cannon belonging to the army and navy for all the +region, and there were more than twenty thousand pieces lying upon the +ground. Some were very large, and they were of all varieties known in +war. + +After a delightful hour spent in listening to the best martial music I +ever heard played, by the band, we took steamboat for Greenwich, and, +landing there, walked to Blackheath, where we had an engagement to dine +at Lee Grove with a London merchant. Here we had a fine opportunity to +witness the luxury and elegance of English social life. This gentleman, +now in the decline of life, has an exquisitely beautiful place, situated +in a park of some sixty acres. The railroad has been run through his +estate, and, of course, has made it very much more valuable for +building; but as it injures the park for the embellishment of the +mansion, it was a fair subject for damages, and the jury of reference +gave its proprietor the pretty verdict of eleven thousand pounds. At the +table we had the finest dessert which the hothouse can furnish. Our host +gave us a very interesting account of his travels in America more than +forty years ago. A journey from New York to Niagara, as related by this +traveller, was then far more of an undertaking than a journey from New +Orleans to New York, and a voyage thence to England, at the present +time. + +In the evening, we took the cars for London, and reached our comfortable +hotel, the Golden Cross, Charing Cross, at eleven o'clock. By the way, +we are all very much pleased with the house and its landlord. Mr. +Gardiner is a very gentlemanly man, of fine address and acquirements. He +has been a most extensive traveller in almost every part of the world, +and has a fine collection of paintings, and one of the prettiest +cabinets of coins and medals I ever saw. He has a pretty cottage and +hothouses four or five miles from the city; and his family resides +partly there and at the hotel. The hotel is every thing that can be +desired. + +A few evenings ago, Mr. Lawrence had a splendid _soirée_. There were +probably from two to three hundred present. Among the company were Sir +David Brewster, Leslie the artist, Miss Coutts, the Duke of Wellington. +"The duke," as he is called, is the great man of England. All the people +idolize him, and he is known to be a great man. He has become more +identified with the history of England for the last forty years than any +other man. Of course, he was to us Americans the great man of the +country. Whenever I have read of Napoleon, I have had Wellington in my +eye, and to see him was next to seeing the emperor. I never expected the +pleasure, but here it is allotted me. He is quite an old man in his +bearing and gait. He was dressed in a blue coat with metal buttons, wore +his star and garter, and had on black tights and shoes. He had been to +the opera, and then came to this party. Every one pays the most +deferential homage to the old hero. Waterloo and its eventful scenes +came directly before me, and I felt almost impatient for our visit to +the battle-field. + +A gentleman who knows the duke told us that he spends from four to five +hours every morning at the Horse Guards in the performance of his duties +as commander-in-chief. Although he looks so feeble in the drawing-room, +he sits finely on his horse; and when I saw him riding down Piccadilly, +he seemed to be full twenty years younger than he was the day before at +the party. + +We shall always be glad that we came to England in time to see "the +duke," and if we live twenty or thirty years, it will be pleasant to +say "I have seen the Duke of Wellington." + +Yours affectionately, + +GEORGE. + + + + +Letter 15. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +I know how curious you are to hear all about the royal exhibition, so I +shall do my best to give you such an account of our visits to it as may +enable you to get a bird's eye view of the affair. + +Almost as soon as I arrived, I determined upon securing season tickets +for the boys, in order that they might not only see the pageant of the +opening on the 1st of May, but also have frequent opportunities to +attend the building and study its contents before the reduced prices +should so crowd the palace as to render examination and study nearly +impracticable. However, there came a report through all the daily papers +that the queen had abandoned the idea of going in person to inaugurate +the exhibition, and the sale of tickets flagged, and it was thought +prices would be reduced below the three guineas, which had been the +rate. I left London for a few days without purchasing, and on my return +I called for four season tickets, when, to my surprise, I was told that, +just an hour before, orders had been given from the board to raise them +to four guineas. I at once purchased them, although I regarded the +matter as an imposition. A few days after, Prince Albert revoked the +action of the board, and orders were issued to refund the extra guinea +to all who had purchased at the advanced price. This was easily +ascertained by reference to the number on the ticket, and registered at +purchase with the autograph of the proprietor. Of course, we saved our +four guineas. + +For several days before the 1st of May all London, I may say all +England, and almost all the world was on tiptoe. Every man, woman, and +child talked of "the Crystal Palace, the great exhibition, the queen, +and prince Albert." + +For a week or two there had been a succession of cold rain storms. +Winter had lingered in the lap of April. Men were looking at the 1st of +May with gloomy anticipations of hail, rain, snow, and sleet. Barometers +were in demand. The 30th of April gave a hail storm! The 1st of May +arrives,--_the day,_--and lo! + + "Heaven is clear, + And all the clouds are gone." + +It was as though the windows of heaven were opened to let the glory from +above stream through and bless Industry's children, who are about to +celebrate their jubilee. The queen, it is said, has a charm as regards +the weather. I heard many exclaim, "It is the queen's weather; it is +always her luck." Such a sight as that day afforded was never before +witnessed, and such a spectacle will probably never again be gazed upon. +The streets were thronged early. Every westward artery of the great city +pulsated with the living tide that flowed through it. From the far east, +where the docks border the Thames, came multitudes, though not exactly +stars in the hemisphere of fashion. Ladies in the aristocratic precincts +of Belgravia rose at an early hour, and, for once, followed the queen's +good, every-day example. The lawyers rushed from Lincoln's and Gray's +Inns of Court. The Royal Exchange was so dull at ten o'clock that the +very grasshopper on its vane might have been surprised. Holborn was +crammed at when in olden time people pressed, and struggled, and strove +to see Jack Sheppard, Joshua Wild, Dick Turpin, or any such worthies on +their sad way to Tyburn. But it is no gibbet now allures the morbid +multitude. They are gayly, gently, and gladly travelling to the home of +industry. Among all the pleasant sights that every moment delighted us +none were more pleasant than the happy family groups, who, on every +side, "push along, keep moving." Just see that mechanic; he looks as +proud as a lord,--and why shouldn't he be?--with his wife leaning +trustingly, lovingly on his arm. He, good man, has thrown away the saw, +or plane, or any other tool of handicraft, and now his little boy--O, +the delight, the wonder in that boy's face!--is willingly dragged along. +Well, on we go,--driving across what you would call impassable streets, +and lo! we are wedged up in a crowd,--and such a crowd,--a crowd of all +nations. + +At length we reach the palace gates; and there, who can tell the press +and strife for entrance. Long and nobly did the police struggle and +resist, but at length the outward pressure was omnipotent, and the full +tide of lucky ones with season tickets gained, entrance into, not the +palace, but the enclosure. Then came order,--breathing space,--tickets +were examined, and places assigned on cards, given as we entered into +the palace itself. We all obtained good positions--very good ones. This +was at eleven o'clock. At about a quarter to twelve, one standing near +to us remarked, "She will be to her time; she always is." And he was +right; for scarcely had he prophesied before a prolonged shouting told +that the queen was coming. "Plumes in the light wind dancing" were the +outward and visible signs of the Life Guards, who came gently trotting +up. Then came four carriages,--the coachmen and footmen of which were so +disguised with gold lace, and wigs, and hair powder, that their mothers +wouldn't have known them,--and then the queen--not robed and tricked +out like the queens in children's story books, so dreadful as to +resemble thunderbolts in petticoats; not hooped, and furbelowed, and +stomachered, and embroidered all over, as was Elizabeth; nor with a cap, +like Mary, Queen of Scots; not with eight horses prancing before the +queen's carriage, but in her private carriage, drawn by two horses. Off +went all hats. I wish you could have heard the cheering as the queen +entered the wondrous building. O, it was like "the voice of many +waters." Such deep, prolonged, hearty cheering I never, heard. As +Victoria entered, up went the standard of England, and never before did +its folds wave over such a scene. The entrance of majesty was the signal +for the organ to play; the vitreous roof vibrates as the sounds fly +along the transparent aisles; and we had musical glasses on a large +scale. It would require the pen of our favorite Christopher North to +describe the magnificent scene when the queen ascended the throne, +surrounded by all the elegance and nobility of her kingdom. Her husband +reads an address; she replies; the venerable archbishop dedicates the +Temple of Industry. The queen declares the palace opened, and the +procession is formed to walk through its aisles. No small task this; but +then thirty thousand persons are waiting to gaze on the queen and her +court. A ludicrous sight it was to see two of England's proudest peers +walking backward before the queen. The Marquis of Westminster and Earl +of Breadalbane performed this feat, and glad enough must they have been +when they received their dismission. The heralds, some twelve or +fourteen, in black velvet, looked finely. The queen walked like a queen, +and bore herself nobly and womanly. She is a small figure, fair face, +light hair, large, full, blue eyes, plump cheek, and remarkably fine +neck and bust. She leaned upon her husband's right arm, holding in her +hand the Prince of Wales, while Prince Albert led the princess royal. I +was sadly disappointed in the appearance of the Prince of Wales. He is +altogether a feeble-looking child, and cannot have much mental force. +The princess is a fine, energetic-looking girl. We stood within a yard +of the royal party as it passed bowing along. Then came the members of +the royal family; and then visitors from Prussia and Holland; the ladies +and gentlemen of the queen's household; the cabinet ministers; the +foreign ministers; the archbishop in his robe, and the members of the +royal commission; the lord mayor of London, and the aldermen. There, +too, was Paxton, the architect of this great wonder. It was his day of +triumph, and every one seemed to be glad for his fortune. All these were +in gorgeous court dresses. I have seen all sorts and kinds of show, but +never did I witness such a spectacle as was this day afforded to the +congress of the world. The Duke of Wellington, and his companion in +arms, the Marquis of Anglesea, walked arm in arm, "par nobilis fratrum." +It was Wellington's birthday. He is eighty-two, and Anglesea eighty-one. +The Marquis walks well for a man of his age, and who has to avail +himself of an artificial leg. They were most enthusiastically cheered in +all parts of the house. In the diplomatic corps there was great splendor +of costume, but no man carried himself more stately than did Mr. +Lawrence, whose fine, manly figure admirably becomes a court dress. I do +not think that I ever saw a collection of ladies so plain and homely as +the court ladies of Queen Victoria, who walked behind her in procession. +The Duchess of Sutherland has been renowned for her majestic beauty; but +she is _passe_, and her friends are, I think, matchless for entire +destitution of personal charms. But there was enough present to atone +for the want of this in the royal circle. Some of the most exquisite +faces I ever saw were there in those galleries, and forms of beauty that +can hardly be surpassed. I was much surprised at noticing in the vast +crowd, known to be about thirty thousand, that there were so few lads. I +do not believe there were more than ten or fifteen in the palace; and, +as we have already said, the absence of lads is owing to their all being +at boarding-schools. Our boys, you may well suppose, are greatly +pleased with having witnessed the greatest pageant of the age, and one +that can never be surpassed. We shall soon be at the exhibition again, +and apply ourselves to a careful survey of its interesting contents. + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 16. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Now that the excitement consequent on the opening of the Crystal Palace +has in some degree subsided and curiosity to a certain extent satisfied, +we are enabled to obtain more lucid ideas of this extraordinary building +and its wondrous contents. The admission for several days was one pound, +and at this high price the visitors were of the most fashionable +character. We have been much pleased in looking at the very fine +equipages that throng the roads around the park. The carriages, horses, +end liveries are in the best possible taste. When we entered, the palace +was no longer heightened in splendor by the presence of the sovereign +and her brilliant court. The superb canopy which overshadowed the _dais_ +on which the gorgeous chair had stood, alone remained to indicate that +there England's queen had performed the inaugural rites; but the great +facts of the exhibition remained. The crystal fountain still played, the +magnificent elms appeared in their spring garniture of delicate green +beneath the lofty transept, and the myriad works of skill, art, and +science lay around, above, and beneath us. I entered the building by its +eastern door, and, immediately on passing the screen which interposes +between the ticket offices and the interior, the whole extent of the +palace of glass lay before me. Fancy yourself standing at the end of a +broad avenue, eighteen hundred and fifty feet in length, roofed with +glass, and bounded laterally by gayly-decorated, slender pillars. The +effect was surpassingly beautiful. Right and left of this splendid nave +were other avenues, into which the eyes wandered at will; for no walls, +no barriers are to be found in the whole building; all is open, from +floor to roof, and from side to side, and from the eastern to the +western extremity. + +Proceeding westward, I saw the compartments allotted to our own country. +The first thing I noticed was a piece of sculpture,--the dying +Indian,--a fine production, though perhaps a trifle overdone. Then came +an American bridge, which painters were still at work upon; and then, +backed by drapery of crimson cloth, that splendid creation of genius, +the Greek Slave, which will immortalize the name of Hiram Powers. I +shall not, I think, be accused of national partiality when I assert +that this statue is, in sculpture, one of the two gems of the +exhibition. Perhaps, if I were not from the United States, I should say +it was "_the gem_." When I come to tell you of the Italian marbles, I +shall refer to that production of art which can alone be thought to +dispute the palm of superiority with it. Every one expresses the highest +admiration at the Slave, and a crowd is constantly around the spot. One +old gentleman, who was in an ecstasy over the sculpture, very sharply +rebuked a person complaining of the paucity of the American productions, +with "Fie, _there_ is one thing America has sent, that all Europe may +admire, and no one in Europe can equal." Turning aside from this +"breathing marble," I examined the American exhibition of products and +manufactures. I confess to you I felt mortified with the comparative +meagreness of our show, because it contrasts poorly with the abundance +exhibited by nations far inferior to us in skill and enterprise. Still, +we have much to show; but the useful prevails over the beautiful. I am +quite sure, too, that there are things here which will compel attention, +and carry away calm, dispassionate approbation from the jurors. The +United States exhibits numerous specimens of tools, cordage, cotton and +woolen fabrics, shawls, colors, prints, daguerreo-types, silver and gold +plate, pianos, musical instruments, harnesses, saddlery, trunks, +bookbinding, paper hangings, buggies, wagons, carriages, carpetings, +bedsteads, boots and shoes, sculls, boats, furs, hair manufactures, +lithographs, perfumery, soaps, surgical instruments, cutlery, dentistry, +locks, India rubber goods, machinery, agricultural implements, stoves, +kitchen ranges, safes, sleighs, maps, globes, philosophical instruments, +grates, furnaces, fire-arms of all descriptions, models of railroads, +locomotives, &c. You may add to these fine specimens of all our produce, +as cotton, sugar, tobacco, hemp, and the mineral ores--iron, lead, zinc, +plumbago, tin, and copper, coals of all kinds, preserved meats, &c., &c. + +I wish, Charley, you could go with me into a door south of the transept, +over which, in oddly-shaped letters, are the words "MEDIÆVAL +COURT." The very name reminds one of Popery, Puseyism, and Pugin. +This mediæval court absolutely dazzles one's eyes with its splendors. +Auriferous draperies line the walls; from the ceiling hang gold and +silver lamps--such lamps as are to be seen in Romish chapels before the +statues of the Virgin; huge candlesticks, in which are placed enormous +candles; Gothic canopies and richly-carved stalls; images of he and she +saints of every degree; crucifixes and crosiers; copes and mitres; +embroideries, of richest character, are all here--things which the +mother of harlots prizes as the chosen instruments by which she +deceives the nations. And truly beautiful are many of these things as +works of art; but it is only as works of art that any Christian can +admire them. As I gazed on the rich tissues and golden insignia, I +mourned for poor corrupt human nature, to which alone such gewgaws could +be acceptable. How would Paul or Peter have stared, had they been +required to don such glittering pontificals as are here to be seen! +While I feel great respect for Pugin's ability as an architect and +designer, I have profound pity for those who are deluded by these +gorgeous symbols of a gloomy, cruel, and heartless creed. + +There is a large golden cage, not altogether unlike a parrot's; and +there is a press, indeed. What calls such attention from the multitude? +I join the gazers, and see what at first appears to be three pieces of +irregularly-shaped glass, white and glittering; one large piece, about +the size of a walnut, and two others a little larger than marbles. What +renders that bit of glass so attractive? Glass! no; it is "a gem of +purest ray serene"--a diamond--the diamond of diamonds--the largest in +the world. In short, it is the Kohinoor; or, as the Orientals poetically +called it, "the mountain of light." Its estimated value is two millions +sterling--enough to buy the Crystal Palace itself, nine times over. The +history of this precious gem is romantically curious. It belonged to +Runjeet Sindjb and is now an English trophy. + +Let us enter that partially-darkened chamber, and stand before a painted +glass window, the production of Bertini, of Milan. I can't describe this +extraordinary production. It is illustrative of Dante, and, for +brilliancy of color and harmony of combination, it is not surpassed by +the much-vaunted specimens of past ages. + +"From the sublime to the ridiculous," said Burke, "there is but a step;" +and at not much greater distance from this Dantean window is a German +toy stand. It is amusing to observe a big, "Tenbroek" sort of son of +Allemagne, arranging tiny children's toys. The contrast between the +German giant and the petty fabrics he is setting off to the best +advantage, provokes a smile. + +Let us join the throng rushing into the suite of rooms furnished by the +upholsterers of Vienna. These rooms are indeed magnificent, and must +afford a high treat to the lovers of wood carving. There is a bookcase, +which is almost a miracle of art; the flowers seem to wave, and the +leaves to tremble, so nearly do they approach the perfection of nature. +Then there is, it is said by judges, the most superb bed in the world; +it is literally covered with carvings of the most costly and delicate +description. Since the time of the famous Grinling Gibbons, the English +carver, nothing has been seen like it. These Austrian rooms are among +the great guns of the show, and will repay repeated visits. + +Here stands the glorious Amazon of Kiss, of Berlin. This group, of +colossal proportions, represents a female on horseback, in the act of +launching a javelin at a tiger which has sprung on the fore quarter of +her affrighted steed. This is a wonderful work of art, and places its +author in the first rank of sculptors. Nothing can surpass the lifelike +character of the Amazon's horse and the ferocious beast. As a tribute to +the genius of Kiss, a grand banquet is to be given to him by the +sculptors and artists of England. Well does he deserve such an honor. + +Close by the Amazon is a colossal lion in bronze. This is the softest +piece of casting I ever saw; the catlike motion of the paw is perfectly +lifelike. I turn back again to that Amazon. I could gaze on the agony of +that horse for hours, and think I should continue to discover new +beauties. + +The Crusader, a colossal equestrian statue of Godfrey of Bouillon, is +also very imposing. The entire floor is covered in the centre of the +avenue, from east to west, with beautiful statues, models, &c. + +We ascended to one of the galleries for the purpose of taking a bird's +eye view of the gay, busy scene; and a most splendid scene was thrown +open to our gaze. Far as the eye could reach, the building was alive +with gayly-dressed people, who, amidst statues, and trophies, and trees, +and fountains, wandered as in the groves of some enchanted land. As I +strolled onwards, I came to where a tiny fountain sent up its silvery +jet of _eau de Cologne_, and an assistant of Jean Marie Farina, from a +little golden spoon, poured on my handkerchief, unasked, the odoriferous +essence. Then we lingered to witness two of the noblest cakes, the sight +of which ever gladdened the heart of a bride. Gunter, the great pastry +cook, was the architect of the one which was a triumph of taste. The +other was adorned with Cupid and Psyche-like emblems. Then came wax +flowers, beaded artfully with glass, so as to appear spangled with +dewdrops. Then we inspected Cashmere shawls, on which I saw many a lady +cast looks, of admiration, and, I almost fancied, of covetousness. + +Down again, and we are beneath the transept. Beautiful, head, far higher +than the tops of the huge elm-trees, is a crystal arch which spans this +intersecting space. Around are marble statues, which gleam lustrously +amid the foliage of tropical plants, which, shielded from the chilling +air without, seem to be quite at home here. And in the midst up rises +Osler's crystal fountain--a splendid affair, twenty-seven feet in +height, and consisting of four tons of cut glass. So exquisitely is it +arranged that no metal, either of joint or pipe, can be seen. It is "one +entire and perfect chrysolite." From its lofty summit issues forth a +dome of water, which separates, and falls in prismatic showers into a +spacious basin beneath. There are three other fountains, but this is the +monarch of all. On either side of this beautiful production of a +Birmingham manufacturer are two equestrian statues of the queen and +Prince Albert, about which I cannot speak in admiration. Groups of +figures line the sides of the transept, and there is a Puck which I +would like all friends to look at. O, he is alive with fun, and there +marble speaks and laughs. + +We have been greatly delighted with the English room of sculpture. There +is a fine portrait statue of Flaxman, from the chisel of Franks; a very +clever statue of John Wesley; but if I were to chronicle all the +sculptures here, I may as well write a catalogue at once. But before I +quit the subject of marble, let me just allude to the Italian gallery. +There the specimens are indeed exquisite, and remind us that the genius +of art yet loves to linger in the "land of the cypress and myrtle"--in +that beautiful country + + "Where the poet's eye and painter's hand + Are most divine." + +Among the gems of marble is one which I told, you was the only possible +rival of Powers's Greek Slave. This lovely production is "the Veiled +Vesta." It represents a young and exquisitely-formed girl, kneeling and +offering her oblation of the sacred fire. Her face is veiled; but every +feature is distinctly visible, as it were, through the folds which cover +her face. So wonderfully is the veil-like appearance produced, that +myself and others were almost inclined to believe that some trick of art +had been practised, and a film of gauze actually hung over the features. +It was not so, however; the hard marble, finely managed, alone caused +the deception. Raffael Monti, of Milan, is the illustrious artist of +"the Veiled Vesta." + +One of the most interesting machines in the whole exhibition is the +envelope machine of Messrs. De la Rue & Co., of London. In its +operations it more resembles the efforts of human intellect than any +thing I have seen before in machinery. It occupies but a small space, +and is worked by a little boy. In a second, and as if by magic, a blank +piece of paper is folded, gummed, and stamped, and, in fact, converted +into a perfect envelope. As soon as finished, a pair of steel fingers +picks it up, lays it aside, and pushes it out of the way in the most +orderly manner possible. These envelopes, so made, are given to all who +choose to accept them. Opposite to this machine is the stand of +Gillott, of steel pen celebrity. Here are pens of all sizes, and of +various materials. One monster pen might fit a Brobdignagian fist, for +it is two feet long, and has a nib one quarter of an inch broad; and +there are others so small that no one but a Liliputian lady could use +them. Between these extremes are others of various dimensions, arranged +in a very tasteful manner. Something must be got out of this branch of +business, for it is only a month or two since Mr. Gillott purchased an +estate for ninety thousand pounds sterling. Here, too, is a novelty--the +model of St. Stephen's Church, Bolton, Lancashire. The model and the +church itself are both composed of terra cotta. This material was also +employed in the construction of the principal fittings, such as the +screen, pews, organ gallery, pulpit, &c. This is a new adaptation of +terra cotta. The spire severely tests its capabilities, as it is of open +Gothic, or tracery work. + +A large model of Liverpool is beautifully constructed to scale, and must +be the result of immense labor. It is twenty-five feet long, and +exhibits at a glance a bird's eye view of the town, the docks, the River +Mersey, and the adjacent places. Hundreds of miniature vessels, amongst +them the Great Britain, crowd the docks; fleets of merchantmen are seen +on the Mersey, sailing to and from the port; and in the busy streets, +so minutely delineated that any particular house may be distinguished, +numerous vehicles are seen, and hundreds, too, of pygmy men and women +are observed walking in the public ways. In short; it is Liverpool in a +glass case, and no mean exhibition in itself. + +The Thames Plate Glass Company exhibit the largest plate of glass in the +world; its dimensions are eighteen feet eight inches by ten feet. There +is not a blemish on its brilliant surface, and it is as "true" as +possible. It is placed in such a position that it reflects the whole +length of the main avenue of the Crystal Palace, and the effect produced +is superb. A Catholic bookseller from Belgium makes quite a display of +his editions of devotional works for every country under heaven; and +there, too, are the effigies of Cardinal Boromeo, Thomas à Becket, and +the late Archbishop of Paris, all arrayed in full pontificals. Their +crosiers are very richly jewelled. If the apostles of Christ could +revisit the earth, they would never fancy that these were their +successors in the work and patience of the gospel. + +Few things have impressed me more than the exquisite carvings and +elaborate work of the cabinet ware; and I must, Charley, try to describe +one piece of furniture which excites universal praise. It is a cabinet +made by John Stevens, of Taunton. It was prepared at great cost, and is +the gem of the carved work in the exhibition. The wood of which it was +composed was a walnut-tree, which, not long ago, flourished near +Taunton. In order that you may not suppose, I praise every thing too +highly, and without sufficient ground for admiration, I shall give you a +particular description of this incomparable piece of furniture. It +represents, in four beautifully carved male figures, executed after the +style of Gibbons, the periods of Youth, Manhood, Maturity, and Old Age, +whilst other four (female) figures, beautifully brought up in good +relief, are representative of the Passions. Here there was an +opportunity for displaying some fine needlework; and Miss Kingsbury, a +lady of the town, who has received from the hand of royalty a reward for +her talents, has turned the opportunity to good account, and produced +some appropriate work, displaying a skill truly astonishing. This is not +the least attractive portion of the cabinet, and, as we shall again, +have to advert to it in its order, we leave it for the present. The +carved figure of the Youth represents him at twenty years of age. The +countenance is finely wrought, and marks the innocency and candor of the +young heart; the open brow, the love-lighted eye, all exemplifying +characteristics of that period of life, untrammelled with care or +anxious thought. In his hair, well brought out from the solid wood, is +intertwined the violet, the primrose, and the cow-slip, emblematical of +the season--being the spring time of life. In the right hand of the +figure is attached a portion of a festoon of carved flowers, which +connects it with the other four figures. The left hand is extended, +pointing to Manhood. This figure denotes the period when forty summers +have ripened the man, and brought the noblest work of God to that stage +of his more powerful intellect, his keener judgment, stronger frame, and +more lasting energy. These characteristics are most admirably depicted. +In his locks are carved the rose, the lily, the pink, and the carnation, +the strawberry and the gooseberry--emblematical of the summer time of +life. In the right hand the figure receives the festoon of flowers from +Youth, and in the left it supports the frame of the cabinet. The festoon +is carried on to Maturity, which represents the time when sixty years +bring him to the period of decline. Its right hand assists, with the +left of that of Manhood, in supporting the cabinet. Encircling his brow +are corn ears and wine cups, together with barley, wheat, grapes, and +hops, the whole of which are most elaborately and finely chiselled. The +hand of Maturity points downward to Old Age. The furrowed brow, the +sunken cheek, the dim and glassy eye observable in this figure, conveys +the mournful intelligence that the sand of life is fast approaching its +last little grain. The bent form and the thoughtful brow tell that +Time, the consumer of all things, has also ravaged a once erect and +powerful frame. The contemplation of this figure, beautifully executed +as it is, intuitively inculcates a serious consideration of the value +and blessings of a temperate; and well-spent life; it induces a +thoughtful reflection that a life of goodness alone insures an end of +peace. The holly, the mistletoe, the ivy, the acorn shell, the leafless +branch, and the fruitless vine encircle the brow-fit emblems of the +period which marks an exchange of time for eternity. All the figures are +rendered complete by a carved lion's foot, at the bottom of each, and +above the feet is a connecting frame, to make that portion of the stand +perfect. Between the figures of Spring and Summer are carved flowers and +fruit in great profusion, emblematical of the seasons, and forming a +fine piece of work; it represents the all-important fact that time +flies, by an hourglass borne on the wings of a splendidly-carved eagle, +and suspending from the bird's beak are the letters, curiously wrought, +forming TEMPUS FUGIT. This rests on a globe, representative of +the earth, which is half sunk in a shell of water, overflowing the wheel +of time, and shedding on fruit and flowers its refreshing dew. The space +between the figures of Autumn and Winter is filled with carvings of the +chrysanthemum, holly, ivy, and autumn fruit, intertwined with +consummate skill and taste. The garland, or festoon, which is carried +through, and sustained, as before stated, by each of the four figures, +is composed of every flower indigenous to this part of the land, and +introduced emblematically to the time in which they severally bloom. + +Above the figures, and resting on their heads, is a stand or frame to +receive the top part, containing the drawers, doors, &c., and is +constructed in a peculiar manner on the bevel, that the eye may easily +rest on some beautiful lines from Thomson's Seasons. Over the head of +Youth, in this frame, is a basket of strawberries, cherries, +raspberries, and early fruit, surrounded with leaf work, enclosing a +panel of needlework, covered with bent plate glass, and the motto,-- + + "------ Chief, lovely Spring, + In these and thy soft scenes the smiling God is seen." + +Then follows the carved figure representing Summer. Over the head of it +is a basket, containing currants, strawberries, gooseberries, apples, +pears, peaches, and other fruits, enriched with leaf work, the lily and +the rose completing the centre. Between the Summer and Autumn baskets +and a panel are the following mottoes, each season having one:-- + + "Child of the sun! refulgent Summer comes, + In pride of youth; + While Autumn, nodding o'or the yellow plain, + Comes jovial on." + +Then follows the Autumn basket, containing grapes, pears, filberts, &c., +surrounded with leaf work. The panel of needlework next appears for +Winter, with these lines:-- + + "See! Winter comes to rule the varied year, + Sullen and sad;" + +and over the head of the Winter figure is placed a basket of walnuts, +medlars, &c. Here is the frame of the cabinet, which contains about +eighty drawers in fine walnut wood, enriched with fuschia drops in +silver, and coral beads for drop handles; the wood work is relieved with +silvered plate glass; also small doors with plate glass for needlework, +in wild flowers. This completes the interior of the frame. + +The exterior represents three carved doors, in fine relief: over Spring +and Summer is the convolvulus, entwined round the frame; then follows +the centre door, in fine relief--the grape vine, full of fruit, being +very prominent. The door over Autumn and Winter is enriched with +carvings of barley and hop vine. Between each of these doors are +pilasters, forming four female figures, holding in their hands the +emblems of the seasons, and a newly-invented glass dome head, in an +elegant form, for the protection of knitted flowers in Berlin wool. The +wood work is tastefully arranged, springing from each group of flowers +over the heads of the female figures, with mouldings to receive the +bent plate glass, and is enriched with fine carvings of fruit and +flowers. At the extreme top of this glass dome stands a beautiful figure +of Peace, with extended wings, bending over the globe, holding in one +hand the olive branch, and with the other pointing to the Deity. + +Having thus given a description of the carvings of this splendid +cabinet, let me turn your attention to the enrichments in needlework, +worked on black velvet, from nature, by Miss Kingsbury. The mottoes in +frame for the different seasons are worked in floss silk of various +colors; the inside doors--five in number--with wild flowers; and in +front are rich specimens of raised embroidery, extending to the inside, +and protected with plate glass. Miss Kingsbury is a young lady of +Taunton, who has made this kind of work her peculiar forte. + +Above the doors, also, are knitted flowers in Berlin wools, which fill +the dome head, and are protected with bent plate glass. Almost every +flower, as they bloom, are to be distinguished in these rich bouquets, +with which the honeysuckle and passion flower are beautifully entwined. + +Now, what think you of such a cabinet as this? Well, Charley, there are +scores and scores of objects as much deserving a full description as +this. + +The department of machinery and steam power is entirely beyond my +ability to speak of in proper terms. I have little mechanical genius, +and I never am more out of my element than When surrounded by fly +wheels, cylinders, and walking beams. + +If our friend Ike had been here, lie would have been perfectly at home; +and his pleasure and profit in this department would have surpassed any +I could experience. I have only glanced at a few of the wonderful things +in this wonderful place, and yet I have far exceeded the bounds of an +ordinary letter. + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 17. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +One evening this week we spent very pleasantly at the Royal Polytechnic +Institution for the advancement of the arts and sciences in connection +with agriculture and manufactures. There is a large theatre, where all +sorts of lectures are delivered, at various hours, upon philosophical +and other subjects. Lecturers occupy the theatre in succession, and take +up about half an hour. These are generally men of respectable abilities. +The building is full of curiosities. We saw the model of the human ear, +about one hundred and forty times larger than the natural organ. We saw +a diving bell in the great hall, which is frequently put into action, +and visitors are allowed to descend. That evening several made the +experiment. The interior of the bell is lighted by thick plate glass. A +very large number of models are to be seen, and there is much to +interest the spectator. We heard a fine lecture respecting the +experiment of Foucault, by which the diurnal rotation of the earth is +said to be rendered visible to the eye. Foucault is a young Parisian, +who, whilst engaged in some investigations with a pendulum in his +mother's cellar, made this discovery, as he claims it to be. We saw the +experiment repeated here on the same scale as it has recently been shown +at the Pantheon at Paris. A brass sphere, weighing about five pounds, +was suspended from the lofty ceiling by a piece of music wire, and made +to vibrate in one plane over a table graduated into degrees. After a few +vibrations, the direction of the pendulum appeared to be changed, as +though the table had moved round on its owns axis. + +We passed an hour at the Egyptian Hall to see the opening of the +American Panorama of the Overland Route to California. It bids fair to +make a hit in London. Last Sunday, "great exhibition" sermons were +abundant in London. Exeter Hal, the largest place in London, holding +about five thousand persons, is to be used for three months for the +performance of divine service, to accommodate the strangers who crowd +the city. We all went, Sunday evening, and heard the Rev. Thomas Binney, +who has quite a reputation. The hall was as full as it could be, but we +did not think the discourse as good as it might be. It was rather +declamatory. + +You no doubt remember how much our curiosity was excited by hearing that +Mr. Wyld was about to place a model of the globe, of gigantic +dimensions, in the great exhibition. Well, he was unable to obtain the +space required, and so he has erected a spacious building in Leicester +Square. This building is circular, with projecting entrances at the four +cardinal points of the compass. From the centre rises a graceful dome. +Here is placed the model of the earth, fifty-six feet in diameter. The +scale is about ten miles to an inch. The arrangement before used in the +construction of globes is reversed in this case, and the continents, +islands, and seas are seen on the _inner_ surface. This seems like +turning the world, not upside down, but inside out. The mountains and +land are elevated to a scale. The spectators travel round the globe on +winding staircases, at the distance of a few feet from the surface. I +went the other morning to the model, but was far less interested than I +expected. The rest of the party were not present, and are willing to +take my report. I heard that Mr. Wyld has spent twelve thousand pounds +upon his undertaking. + +We selected a fine afternoon to visit the Zoölogical Gardens in the +Regent's Park, and, of course, had a treat. I did not think much of the +gardens as far as the horticulture was concerned; but the collection of +animals was far beyond any thing I had before witnessed. There are more +than sixteen hundred specimens. The animals are finely housed, and their +habits consulted in the arrangements of their homes. We had the pleasure +to see the young elephant, only six months old, which had just been +received. It was about the size of a donkey. A hippopotamus had recently +been added to the collection, and we were sadly vexed not to see it. It +was shut up at six o'clock, just as we reached its house. George had his +luck, and obtained a glimpse of the retiring quadruped. We have been +greatly amused with the sight of hundreds of boys about town, dressed in +blue gowns, or long coats with belts, short knee breeches, yellow +stockings, and shoes with tackles, but wear no caps or hats. In all +weathers they are bareheaded. I find that they are the boys belonging to +Christ's Hospital, a school founded by Edward VI., in 1553, and +generally known in London as the Blue Coat School. The scholars +generally range from one thousand to twelve hundred. The education, is +said to be of the best character, and many of the boys belong to +families of high respectability, and it is quite a matter of desire to +obtain scholarship here. They look very funny in their old-fashioned +rig. Each boy wears bands like a clergyman. The school is in Newgate +Street, and is a fine modern edifice in the Tudor style. The front is +flanked by towers, and has eight noble windows, which are separated by +buttresses. Over one of the galleries of the hall is a fine picture, by +Holbein, of Edward VI. granting the charter to the Hospital, as it was +then called. Some of the best scholars of England were educated here; +and we remembered particularly Coleridge and our special favorite, +Charles Lamb. + +To-morrow we are to have a treat of the highest kind. We are to spend +the day at Windsor. I feel pretty well acquainted with its history and +associations, but I shall spend the evening with George in brushing up +my information. There is nothing more unpleasant than to find yourself +in the presence of things and places of which you painfully feel an +entire ignorance. If ever we meet again, how much we shall have to chat +over on our favorite topics! + +Yours always, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 18. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +It was a fine, clear morning when we started for Windsor by railroad, a +distance of twenty-one miles. The country is fine; but our thoughts were +on the castle. At Slough we took an omnibus, and rode into the town. It +is a pretty, quiet place, of about ten thousand inhabitants. There are +some six or seven streets, and they present but few attractions. The +castle is every thing. You know this has been the favorite residence of +most of the English monarchs, and the scene of many a tournament in the +days of chivalry. The castle was the work of William the Conqueror. John +lived at Windsor while Magna Charta was extorted from him by his barons +at Runnymede. Henry III. did a great deal to the castle, but Edward III. +invested it with its great glory. This was his native place. The +architect he employed was the famous William of Wykeham, Bishop of +Winchester, a man of great genius. He built the noble round tower. This +was in 1315. Wykeham built him a palace worthy of the hero and his noble +son, the Black Prince. Edward IV. built St. George's Chapel, and Henry +VII. and Henry VIII. both made important additions to the fortress. +Young Edward VI. resided here, and did not like its retirement and +gloom. Elizabeth made the terrace and other improvements. When Charles +II. was restored, he brought a foreign taste to the improvement of the +castle, and a great deal of elegancy was attempted, but which poorly +harmonized with the Gothic, baronial style of Wykeham's works. + +George IV. was a man of exquisite taste, and he employed Sir Jeffry +Wyatville to carry out the plans of Edward III. and his architect. This +was in 1824, and his immense labors have been successful. These +improvements cost two million pounds sterling. I ought to say that +Windsor Castle was the favorite home of George III., who died here. This +palace stands on a lofty chalk hill, and commands the valley of the +Thames. Around it is the finest, terrace in the world, the descent from +which is faced with a rampart of freestone extending about seventeen +hundred feet. The whole building occupies about twelve acres. + +I shall not describe all the towers, for there are some dozen or +fifteen. The round tower of Edward III. is the chief one. Here he +revived the round table of King Arthur, and established the Order of the +Garter. From the battlements of this strong fortress you gaze upon no +less than twelve counties. Prince Albert is constable of this tower. +This was the old prison, or donjon of the castle. Here James I. of +Scotland was a prisoner, and here he wrote his sweet verses and +celebrated Nature's beauties and the praises of his lady-love, Jane +Beaufort. Here, too, Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey, long suffered, and +sung the sweetest lays. We had a ticket to see the state apartments. +Suffice it to say that we went through the Queen's Audience Chamber, the +Vandyke Room, the Queen's State Drawing Boom or Zuccharelle Room, the +State Ante-Room, the Grand Staircase and Vestibule, the Waterloo +Chamber, the Grand Ball Room, St. George's Hall, the Guard Chamber, the +Queen's Presence Chamber. All these are very, very beautiful. I was +delighted with the Vandyke Room. Here are twenty-two undoubted +productions of this greatest of portrait painters. Charles I. and +Henrietta were favorite subjects with the artist. Here are several of +them and their children, and they are to be found elsewhere. The +equestrian portrait of Charles I. is a truly grand picture. You know the +beautiful old copy, of a cabinet size, which we have in the study at +home: it will please me more than ever, since I know how faithful it is. +That queen of Charles's who made him so much trouble with her Popery and +temper was a wonderfully beautiful woman. I should not soon be weary +looking at her portrait. She was daughter of Henry IV. of France. Her +fortune was hard, to lose a father by an assassin, and a husband by the +executioner. The Gobelin tapestry, illustrating the life of Esther, in +the Audience Room, is very rich. In the State Ante-Room are the most +wonderful carvings of fowl, fish, fruit, and flowers, by Grinling +Gibbons. They are thought to be unsurpassed in this department of art. +On the Great Staircase is a noble colossal marble statue, of that +excellent sovereign, but bad man, George IV. It is by Chantrey. The +Waterloo Chamber is adorned with thirty-eight portraits of men connected +with Waterloo, and twenty-nine of them are by Sir Thomas Lawrence. St. +George's Hall is two hundred feet long, thirty-four wide, thirty-two +high, and contains some fine portraits of sovereigns by Vandyke, Lely, +Kneller, Gainsborough, and Lawrence. On twenty-four shields are the arms +of each sovereign of the Order of the Garter, from Edward III. to +William IV. The Guard Chamber is a noble room, eighty feet in length. +Immediately on entering, we were struck with the colossal bust of Nelson +by Chantrey, A piece of the mast of the Victory, shot through by a +cannon ball, forms its fitting pedestal. Here, too, we saw the busts of +the great Duke of Marlborough by Rysbach, and the Duke of Wellington by +Chantrey, and their two banners, by the annual presentation of which to +the reigning sovereign, on the anniversaries of Blenheim and Waterloo, +they hold the estates of Blenheim and Strathfieldsaye. There are figures +in armor representing the Duke of Brunswick, 1530; Lord Howard, 1588; +Earl of Essex, 1596; Charles I., when Prince of Wales, 1620; and Prince +Rupert, 1635. These suits of armor are the genuine ones which were worn +by these characters in their lifetime. One thing greatly delighted +me--it was the gorgeous shield, executed by Benvenuto Cellini, and +presented by Francis I. to Henry VIII. at the Field of the Cloth of +Gold. The workmanship is entirely beyond anything I had imagined +possible for delicacy of finish. I hardly wonder that kings used to +quarrel for the residence of this artist. + +I know, Charley, you are impatient to hear about St. George's Chapel, of +which you have so often expressed your admiration, when we have looked +at the beautiful engravings of its interior, at home. It is very fine, +and should be seen to be comprehended. It is of what is called the +perpendicular Gothic style. The interior is divided by a screen and +organ gallery, into the body of the church, and the choir. These have +side aisles, and in these are five separate little chapels. Two of these +make up the place of transepts, and the other three, and the chapter +house, form abutments at each angle of the chapel. Now, I think, you +can't fail to get an idea of the building. + +The choir is filled with the stalls and banners of the knights of the +garter. Each knight has his banner, helmet, crest, and sword. + +The great pointed window was _designed_ by our countryman, Benjamin +West. The altar-piece was painted by West. Here is the tomb of Edward +IV., 1483. He lies under a slab of black marble. In 1789, some workmen +discovered his lead coffin, and it was opened, and the skeleton was in +good preservation, and measured seven feet in length. Horace Walpole +obtained a lock of his hair at this time. Here are the graves of Henry +VI., and of Henry VIII. and his queen, Jane Seymour. Also of Charles I. + +Lord Byron says of Henry VIII.'s tomb, + + "Famed for contemptuous breach of sacred ties, + By headless Charles, see heartless Henry lies" + +On the 1st of April, 1813, the coffin of Charles I. was found in Henry +VIII.'s tomb; and I think you will be pleased with an account of what, +transpired. I shall, therefore, copy a paper which is authentic: + +"On completing the mausoleum which his present majesty has built in the +Tomb House, as it is called, it was necessary to form a passage to it +from under the choir of St George's Chapel. In constructing this +passage, an aperture was made accidentally, in one of the walls of the +vault of King Henry VIII., through which the workmen were enabled to +see, not only the two coffins which were supposed to contain the bodies +of King Henry VIII. and Queen Jane Seymour, but a third also, covered +with a black velvet pall, which, from Mr. Herbert's narrative, might +fairly be presumed to hold the remains of King Charles I. + +"On representing the circumstance to the Prince Regent, his Royal +Highness perceived at once that a doubtful point in history might be +cleared up by opening this vault; and, accordingly, his Royal Highness +ordered an examination to be made on the first convenient opportunity. +This was done on the 1st of April last, 1813,--the day after the funeral +of the Duchess of Brunswick,--in the presence of his Royal Highness +himself; who guarantied, thereby, the most respectful care and attention +to the remains of the dead during the inquiry. His Royal Highness was +accompanied by his Royal Highness the Duke of Cumberland, Count Munster, +the Dean of Windsor, Benjamin Charles Stevenson, Esq., and Sir Henry +Halford. + +"The vault is covered by an arch half a breadth in thickness; is seven +feet two inches in width, nine feet six inches in length, and four feet +ten inches in height, and _is situated in the centre of the choir, +opposite the eleventh knight's stall, on the sovereign's side_. + +"On removing the pall, a plain leaden coffin, with no appearance of +ever having been enclosed in wood, and bearing an inscription, 'King +Charles, 1648,' in large, legible characters, on a scroll of lead +encircling it, immediately presented itself to the view. A square +opening was then made in the upper part of the lid, of such dimensions +as to admit a clear insight into its contents. These were an internal +wooden coffin, very much decayed, and the body carefully wrapped up in +cerecloth, into the folds of which a quantity of unctuous or greasy +matter, mixed with resin, as it seemed, had been melted, so as to +exclude, as effectually as possible, the external air. The coffin was +completely full, and, from-the tenacity of the cerecloth, great +difficulty was experienced in detaching it successfully from the parts +which it developed. Wherever the unctuous matter had insinuated itself, +the separation of the cerecloth was easy; and when it came off, a +correct impression of the features to which it had been applied was +observed in the unctuous substance. At length the whole face was +disengaged from its covering. The complexion of the skin of it was dark +and discolored. The forehead and temples had lost little or nothing of +their muscular substance. The cartilage of the nose was gone, but the +left eye, in the first moment of exposure, was open and full, though it +vanished almost immediately; and the pointed beard, so characteristic of +the reign of King Charles, was perfect The shape of the face was a long +oval. Many of the teeth remained, and the left ear, in consequence of +the interposition of some unctuous matter between it and the cerecloth, +was found entire. It was difficult at this moment to withhold a +declaration, that, notwithstanding its disfigurement, the countenance +did bear a strong resemblance to the coins, the busts, and especially to +the picture of King Charles I. by Vandyke, by which it had been made +familiar to us. It is true that the minds of the spectators of this +interesting sight were well prepared to receive this impression; but it +is also certain that such a facility of belief had been occasioned by +the simplicity and truth of Mr. Herbert's narrative, every part of which +had been confirmed by the investigation, so far as it had advanced; and +it will not be denied that the shape of the face, the forehead, an eye, +and the beard, are the most important features by which resemblance is +determined. When the head had been entirely disengaged from the +attachments which confined it; it was found to be loose, and without any +difficulty was taken up and held to view. It was quite _wet_, and gave a +greenish-red tinge to paper and linen which touched it. The back part of +the scalp was entirely perfect, and had a remarkably fresh +appearance--the pores of the skin being more distinct, as they usually +are when soaked in moisture, and the tendons and ligaments of the neck +were of considerable substance and firmness. The hair was thick at the +back part of the head, and, in appearance, nearly black. A portion of +it, which has since been cleaned and dried, is of a beautiful dark-brown +color. That of the beard was of a redder brown. On the back part of the +head it was about an inch in length, and had probably been cut so short +for the convenience of the executioner, or, perhaps, in order to furnish +memorials of the unhappy king. On holding up the head to examine the +place of separation from the body, the muscles of the neck had evidently +retracted themselves considerably, and the fourth cervical vertebra was +found to be cut through its substance transversely, leaving the surfaces +of the divided portions perfectly smooth and even; an appearance which +could only have been produced by a heavy blow, inflicted with a very +sharp instrument, and which furnished the last proof wanting to identify +Charles I. After this examination, which served every purpose in view, +and without examining the body below the neck; it was immediately +restored to its situation, the coffin was soldered up again, and the +vault closed." + +This state of things precisely tallied with the account which Herbert, +the faithful servant of Charles, had given as to the place of his +sepulture. + +In this chapel, too, is the cenotaph of the late Princess Charlotte, +who was wife to Leopold, now King of Belgium. I do not much admire it. + +The exquisite beauty of the windows, and the gorgeous splendor of the +roof, will always make this place live in my memory. The terraces are +very beautiful walks; and from Queen Elizabeth's terrace you have a +noble view of Eton College. Of course, we were pleased to see "the +distant spires and antique towers" which are so celebrated in the lines +of Gray. The college looms up finely, and greatly adds to the prospect. +Eton was founded in 1440, by Henry VI. The number of scholars is about +eight hundred and fifty. This college has produced some of the greatest +men in England, and the young nobility are generally educated here. The +college has two quadrangles, and the chapel is a fine Gothic building. +All this region is beautified by the Thames winding through the valley. +Here is the gem of villages, Datchett, where Sir Henry Wotton and Izaak +Walton used to enjoy the rod and line. No one who has any taste can come +to Windsor and not think of the immortal bard who has made so much +capital out of this place. At all events, we wanted to see Herne's Oak. + +We took a carriage and passed the day in riding through the great park, +and took our way through the well-known avenue, called the Long Walk. +This is three miles in length, and has a double row of magnificent +elms. It is directly in front of the south side of the castle, and +terminates in a colossal equestrian statue of George III., standing on +an immense pedestal of blocks of granite. Nothing can exceed in beauty +the beeches of this park, which contains three thousand acres. Immense +herds of deer are seen under the trees. Nowhere have I seen such fine +old trees. Here is a beech-tree thirty-six feet round, seven feet from +the ground! One oak of similar size is called William the Conqueror's +Oak. We went to Virginia Water, the largest sheet of water--that is, +artificial--in Great Britain. We saw the little cottage where George IV. +passed so much of his time. It is a pretty place, but it only shows that +the mind is more likely to be pleased with the simple than the grand. + +The gardener at the cottage--which I think is called Cumberland +Lodge--showed us through the conservatory. We did not much admire the +Fishing Temple, or the floating miniature navy. The scenery is charming, +and worthy of Poussin. The walk by the water, to the tavern, cannot be +surpassed. On our return we passed Frogmore, the residence of the +Duchess of Kent; it seems a pretty, unpretending place. + +Nothing would repay the tourist better than to pass three or four days, +in this vicinity. Village after village, and villa after villa, claims +the admiration of the traveller; and perhaps England has no more +beautiful rural scenery than may here be found. We had seven or eight +hours of perfect delight upon our ride; and when we reached the White +Hart, at Windsor, we were well prepared for doing justice to an +excellent dinner. Our pleasure at Windsor was much increased by the +company of a gentleman of high literary reputation, and who is +distinguished as the author of several successful works. + +Affectionately yours, + +WELD + + + + +Letter 19. + + +LONDON + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We are just returned from a most pleasant visit to Sir John Soane's +Museum. This gentleman was an architect, and a most determined +antiquary; and when he died he left his wonderful collection to the +nation, having obtained an act of Parliament for preserving it and +endowing its maintenance. We obtained a government order, and went to +the house which was Sir John's private residence, in Lincoln's Inn +Fields. Never did I behold such a sight. The house is spacious, but +every nook and corner--and it is full of unimaginable ones--is filled up +with precious matters. Here are Roman and Grecian relics; fragments of +vases from Herculaneum; and the far-famed Egyptian sarcophagus brought +over by Belzoni. The latter is made of one piece of alabaster, nearly +ten feet long. It is inscribed all over with hieroglyphics, and cost Sir +John a large sum. I shall see nothing in all Europe that will take my +fancy as much as this museum, I am sure. There are twenty-five distinct +apartments; and if you can find a square foot in the house not occupied, +you would do more than I was able to. The catalogue of this museum I +shall value highly, and that will give you a better idea than I can of +its contents. I had no common pleasure in finding here the original +paintings of the Rake's Progress, by Hogarth, the engravings of which we +have so admired. These pictures were painted in 1734, and were bought by +Sir J. Soane, in 1802, for five hundred and seventy guineas. And here, +too, are Hogarth's great paintings of the Election--a series of four +pictures. These unrivalled works of comic art were bought of Garrick's +widow by Soane, in 1823, for sixteen hundred and fifty guineas! The +collection of paintings is by no means despicable, and we saw a few +pictures not soon to be forgotten. The Views of Venice, by Canaletti, +are very fine; and there are some gems by Reynolds, Danby, Turner, +Hamilton, Lawrence, and Bird. I must tell you how they have economized +room in the apartment devoted to pictures. The ceiling is very richly +adorned with ornaments, forming arched canopies. On the north and west +sides of this room are cabinets, and on the south are _movable planes_, +with space between for pictures. So, in a room of thirteen feet eight +inches by twelve feet four inches, there are as many pictures as could +be placed on the walls of a gallery of the same height, forty-five feet +long and twenty broad. In the crypt is an ancient tomb, and models, in +cork, of tombs, at Capua. + +There are some precious _souvenirs_ of Napoleon to be seen,--as +portraits, miniatures, pistols, &c.,--a fine collection of painted +glass, and a countless lot of antiques, intaglios, autographs, and +watches. If ever you find yourself in London, I charge you, get to this +same place for a long morning. In the afternoon we took steamer and Went +to Greenwich, five miles from town, to see the Hospital for Seamen. +Charles II. built this place for a royal palace,--and a noble one it +is,--but William and Mary gave it up to the use of old and worn-out +seamen; and as England owes every thing to Jack Tar, it seems fit that, +when old and crazy, his last days should be made comfortable. A very +large income arises from the exhibition of the fine picture gallery here +to be seen. Here is quite enough to please any one who is curious, and +to gratify boys amazingly; and this you will credit when I tell you some +things that we saw. The coat and waistcoat worn by Nelson when he was +killed, on the Victory, at Trafalgar; models of celebrated ships; +original painting of Sir Walter Raleigh; Sir Cloudesley Shovel, who was +lost, with all his crew, on the Scilly Islands, in Queen Anne's reign; +Admiral Kempenfeldt, lost in the Royal George, 1782; Lord Nelson; Lord +Collingwood; and almost all the great naval commanders of Great Britain. +Then, too, there are large paintings of the great sea fights. One of +Trafalgar, by Turner, is very fine, and so is a large one of Nelson's +death. + +There is a room besides all I have alluded to, called the Nelson Room, +and which illustrates all his history; and there are, all about the +rooms, some exquisitely fine colossal busts, executed by Flaxman, +Bailey, and Westmacott. The chapel is thought to be one of the most +beautiful in England. The entire of this great national glory is kept in +the cleanest manner; and the only thing to complain of is a want of +politeness in the guides. This is in contrast to other places; for we +have found the guides very kind and civil at all other places. We have +recently visited the Queen's stables, by order from Mr. Lawrence. Every +thing was very clean and spacious. Some of the horses were exceedingly +beautiful. The harness-room made a display. The cream-colored horses +belonging to the state carriage are noble animals. I believe they are +brought from Hanover, or came originally thence. The state carriage is +an immense lumbering affair, made of carvings and gold. It must be of +great weight. The sides are richly painted. It is never used but at the +opening of Parliament and similar occasions. The queen's carriages which +are ordinarily used are numerous and very elegant, but in good taste. +One of our number--you may guess who it was--sadly wanted a hair from +the tail of the queen's favorite riding horse. The riding school is +spacious, but not much better than a private one that we know in New +York. + +We took dinner one day at Soyer's Symposium, at Gore House. Soyer is the +great master of ceremonies in London for all matters of the _cuisine._ +Gore House was once the home of Wilberforce and Lord Rodney, but is +better known as the residence of the late Countess of Blessington. It is +now a hotel. The grounds are extensive, and the trees are some of the +finest around London, and I have never seen a lovelier spot of the same +size. It is alive with blackbirds, thrushes, linnets, and goldfinches. +As you enter, you find a vestibule, which is called the cupola of +Jupiter Tonans. Through this you pass to "the hall of architectural +wonders," then to "the Blessington Temple of the Muses." This apartment +leads to "the Transatlantic Ante-Chamber," which is adorned with all +sorts of American emblems. Then there are, in succession, "the Alcove of +White Roses," "the Birth of Gems," and other rooms of great +gorgeousness. One room is the "Palace of the North," which is apparently +made entirely of ice, and out of the wall of which is issuing a polar +bear. In the pleasure grounds is a "baronial hall," one hundred feet +long, fifty broad, and thirty high; and besides this an enormous tent, +called "the Encampment for all Nations." Here, at a table four hundred +feet long, fifteen hundred persons can be dined at a cheap rate. A +table-cloth for this affair cost Soyer two hundred pounds sterling. We +had a very pleasant dinner with the Rev. Dr. Harris, President of New +College, whose works are so well known in America. The room we occupied +was "the Alcove of White Roses." The Symposium stands near to the +Crystal Palace, and accommodates the strangers admirably. That dinner +was two days ago, however; and I am reminded that another is necessary +today, and must leave off to prepare for it. + +I am yours truly, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 20. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Yesterday we visited the two great ecclesiastical edifices of the +metropolis,--St. Paul's Cathedral and Westminster Abbey,--and I will +endeavor to convey to your mind some idea of the impression which they +left upon my own. These structures are by name familiar to you, and you +have seen engravings of the mighty dome of St. Paul's and the double +towers of the Abbey. I had often gazed on these pictured +representations, but I find that they did not convey to my mind any +adequate notions of the originals. Like the Pyramids, or our own +Niagara, they must be seen to be understood. In so vast a place as +London, it is absolutely necessary for sight-seers to adopt something +like system in their arrangements; so we agreed to devote one day to the +examination of the metropolitan Cathedral Church, and of the ancient +edifice in which the monarchs of England are crowned. We quitted our +hotel at nine o'clock, and, pushing our way through the hurrying crowds +of the Strand, speedily arrived at Temple Bar. We then turned down a +dingy, narrow passage, on our right hand; this led us to the Temple, +which is like a little town of itself, and is almost exclusively +inhabited by lawyers. It was amusing enough to notice the gentlemen in +powdered horse-hair wigs and flowing black robes, like a clergyman's, +who every now and then emerged from some open door, and flitted across +the courts, each having a bundle of papers tied with red tape, or a book +under his arm. Whilst occupied in observing these Templars of modern +times, the tones of an organ fell on my ear, for we were close to the +Temple Church, one of the most beautiful sanctuaries in the world. The +early morning service was not concluded so we entered without ceremony. +Externally, the building has little in the way of architectural +decorations to recommend it. It is low, destitute of tower or steeple, +and surrounded by gloomy-looking lawyers' offices. But no sooner had we +crossed the threshold than a scene of surpassing beauty burst upon us. I +should here tell you that this edifice, which is intended for the +exclusive use of members of the Temple, is very ancient. The church +formerly belonged to the Knights Templars. It was built in 1185, and the +choir was added in 1240. For years and years the building was neglected +by the legal gentlemen; but in 1839 it was proposed to restore the +former glories of the place, and the outlay of seventy thousand pounds +has caused it to stand out in all its pristine beauty. The form of the +church is octagonal. The ceiling, sides, and altar are all decorated in +the mediæval style. The pipes of the organ dazzle you with their purple +and golden splendors. The floor is of encaustic tiles. On the walls are +displayed the names and coats of arms of those members of the Temple who +have been raised to the dignity of judges. On all these objects the +sunshine, streaming through superbly-painted windows, produced quite a +kaleidoscope effect. The _coup d'oeil_ was almost too dazzling, and +strikingly contrasted in my mind with the primitive simplicity of our +New England churches. In this church I found that some great men had +been buried. The learned Sir John, Selden, the author of "Table Talk;" +Howell, whose old letters we have so much enjoyed together; Gibbon the +historian, and Oliver Goldsmith, lie just outside the church. The +preacher of this church is called the master of the Temple, and the +great Hooker once held this post. Having gratified our curiosity by an +inspection of this gem of church architecture, we quitted the building, +and, after a pleasant stroll through the Temple Gardens,--a sweet spot, +and spoken of by Shakspeare as the place where the distinction of the +Red and White Roses was first seen,--embarked on one of the river +steamboats, which rapidly conveyed us to Blackfriars Bridge. + +The finest view of St. Paul's Cathedral is, unquestionably, from the +Thames. When seen from the streets, only portions of its colossal +magnitude can be observed. On all sides it is hemmed in by houses, +which, pygmies though they be, prevent an uninterrupted view of the +architectural giant. But from the middle of the Thames, the cathedral is +seen in all its glory; towering above the surrounding marts of trade, it +stands out the grand point of attraction. + +[Illustration: St. Paul's Cathedral.] + +Here may be observed, to advantage, the surpassing beauty of the great +dome, which dwarfs the towers and steeples of the surrounding churches +almost into nothingness. The general aspect of the cathedral is said to +resemble St. Peter's, at Rome, but the symmetry of the dome of the +latter is acknowledged to be less beautiful than that of its London +rival. + +We landed at Blackfriars Bridge Stairs; and, after ascending Ludgate +Hill, arrived at the great northern door of the cathedral. In reply to +the rap of our knuckles at the huge portals, it slowly swung back on its +hinges, and a grim, surly-looking face appeared. The figure which +belonged to the face was clad in a rusty and seedy black robe, from +beneath which a hand was thrust forth, and the words, "two-pence each," +sounded harshly on our ears. Two-pence each was accordingly paid, and +then the surly janitor, or verger, as he is called, admitted us within +the building. In a moment afterwards, we were beneath the dome of St. +Paul's. If this part of the edifice has appeared imposing when viewed +from without, how much grander did it seem now that we stood on the +marble pavement below, and gazed upward into the vast concave which the +genius of Sir Christopher Wren had designed. The scene to my mind was +most impressive, and the impressiveness was heightened by a continuous +dull roar, which never ceased for a moment. This ceaseless noise was +produced by the numerous carriages passing and repassing without. The +concavity of the dome, I suppose, condensed the sound into a subdued +thunder, like that which one hears at a short distance from the Falls +of Niagara. Against the huge pillars, and in various niches, were the +statues of eminent men; some of them erected by the nation, as a +commemoration of naval or military services, and others as tributes to +great personal worth, or to public benefactors. Among the statues of the +men of peace, that of Dr. Samuel Johnson, the great lexicographer, +particularly interested me. The celebrated moralist is represented +seated. One hand holds a scroll, the other rests upon a pedestal. The +likeness is said to be well preserved. The sculptor was Bacon. There was +the capacious forehead, the thick bushy eyebrows, the large mouth, the +double chin, the clumsy person, and the thick, ungainly legs, which had +been rendered familiar to me through the portraits which I had seen in +the Johnsonia. As I gazed on that marble tribute to genius and worth, I +could not but remember, Charley, how Johnson had frequently walked the +streets of London all night, because he had not the wherewithal to pay +for a lodging. Near to Johnson's monument was that of Howard the +philanthropist. We noticed a very fine one to Sir Joshua Reynolds; also +statues to Bishop Heber, Abercrombie, Cornwallis, Sir John Moore, Sir +Astley Cooper, Sir Thomas Lawrence, and Benjamin West. + +[Illustration: Dr. Samuel Johnson.] + +But the greatest attraction of St. Paul's is the sarcophagus, in which +repose the remains of England's greatest naval hero, Lord Nelson. +Situated immediately beneath the centre of the great dome is a +diamond-shaped tablet, which marks the spot beneath which rests, after +his career of glory, the hero of the Nile and Trafalgar. His body rests +in a sarcophagus in the vaults below. Exactly beneath the tablet lies +the huge coffin, with the name "NELSON" engraven on its side. +No epitaph, no labored panegyric, no fulsome praise; and Englishmen, I +think, were right in supposing that the simple name of their hero was +enough for fame. This sarcophagus was made by Cardinal Wolsey; and here +Nelson was placed, in a coffin made out of the mainmast of the French +ship, L'Orient. + +The grim verger recommended us to ascend to the dome, and, after paying +fresh fees, we mounted an enormously long and steep-winding staircase, +which led us to the base of the dome. Here was a circular gallery, +surrounded with a railing. Scarcely had we entered this gallery, when +the attendant purposely slammed the entrance door, and immediately a +loud peal, as of thunder, reverberated through the vast building; then +he requested us to listen whilst he whispered against the smooth wall +directly opposite to us. The effect was startling; every word was as +distinct as though the speaker's lips had been close to my ear. This is +known as the Whispering Gallery, and is one of the great lions of the +place. + +We now prepared to ascend still higher, and, after a tedious journey, +arrived at the gilded gallery, which surmounts the dome. From hence we +enjoyed a magnificent view of London, for, fortunately, the atmosphere +was comparatively clear, and the everlasting canopy of smoke which +overhangs London was not so dense as usual. Spread out before us lay the +great wilderness of brick and mortar, through which the shining Thames, +like a huge snake, pursued its sinuous course, spanned at intervals by +bridges, and bearing, on its broad bosom the gathered treasures of many +a far-distant nation. The streets, diminished to mere lanes, looked +alive with Lilliputians; miniature horses and carriages appeared like so +many German automaton toys which had been wound up and set a-going. Far +away to the westward patches of green, studded with trees, denoted the +parks, in one of which glittered the glass roof and sides of the Crystal +Palace; and still more remote were glimpses of the free, fresh, open +country, along which, at intervals, would rush railway trains, bearing +hundreds of passengers to various parts of England. Above my head +glittered, in the brilliant sunshine, the ball and cross which, at a +height of four hundred and four feet, stands proudly over London, and +may be seen from various parts of the metropolis. Another fee secured +our passage to the interior of this globe of gilded copper, and which is +about six feet in diameter, and will hold several persons. To reach it, +I had to ascend a ladder and creep through an aperture at the bottom of +the sphere. This was not worth the labor, but then we could say we had +attained the highest point of the cathedral. I hear that ladies +sometimes venture into the ball; if so, their timidity is insufficient +to baffle their curiosity. This accomplished, we retraced our steps, and +visited the portion of St. Paul's in which divine service is performed. +About a dozen boys, dressed in white surplices, were chanting sweetly; a +dull-looking clergyman read the service indifferently; and a score of +poor people, with one or two well-dressed persons, formed the +congregation. We then departed for Westminster Abbey, which must form +the subject of another letter. + +Yours affectionately, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 21. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +What shall I tell you about Westminster Abbey? I hope I may be able to +say enough to make you long to see it, and determine you to read all you +can about it. By the way, I have satisfied myself that I can learn the +best things about such places by carefully reading good histories and +examining the best engravings. This abbey claims to have been built, in +616, by a Saxon king. It was enlarged by Edgar and Edward the Confessor, +and was rebuilt as it now appears by Henry III. and Edward I. In this +church all the sovereigns of England have been crowned, from Edward the +Confessor down to Victoria; and not a few of them have been buried here. +The architecture, excepting Henry VII.'s Chapel; is of the early +English school. Henry's chapel is of the perpendicular Gothic. The +western towers were built by Sir Christopher Wren. + +We entered at the door leading to the Poet's Corner. We gazed with +interest on the monuments of Chatham, Pitt, Fox, and Canning, Prince +Rupert, Monk, Chaucer, Spenser, Beaumont, Fletcher, Ben Jonson, Cowley, +Dryden, Dr. Watts, Addison, Gay, Sheridan, and Campbell. Here, too, are +tablets to Barrow, South, Garrick, Handel, Clarendon, Bishop Atterbury, +Sir Isaac Newton, and old Parr, who died at the age of one hundred and +fifty-two. + +[Illustration: Poets' Corner, Westminster Abbey.] + +The associations of this building are every thing to the stranger. I +will just give you a list of names of the kings and queens buried +here--Sebert, Edward the Confessor, Henry III., Edward I., Queen +Eleanor, Edward III. and his queen, Philippa, Richard II. and his queen, +Henry V., Henry VII. and his queen, Ann of Cleves, queen of Henry VIII., +Edward VI., Bloody Mary, Mary, Queen of Scots, Queen Elizabeth, James I. +and his queen, Queen of Bohemia, Charles II., William III. and Mary, +Queen Anne, George II. and Queen Caroline. + +We took the circuit of the chapels, beginning with St. Benedict. Here +many eminent churchmen have been interred. The next is St. Edmond's, +which contains twenty monuments; the monument of the Earl of Pembroke, +brother of Henry III.; he died 1298. Here, too, are tombs of children of +Edward II. and Edward III. I noticed a very fine brass monument, which +represents a Duchess of Gloucester in her dress as a nun, dated 1399. +There is, too, the effigy of the Duchess of Suffolk, mother of poor Lady +Jane Grey. The third is St. Nicholas's Chapel, where is seen Lord +Burleigh's monument. The fourth is the Virgin Mary's Chapel, called +Henry VII.'s Chapel, and the ascent to which is by twelve or fourteen +steps. This glorious room consists of a central aisle, with five small +chapels and two side aisles. Here you see the stalls and banners of the +Knights of the Bath, who were formerly installed in this chapel. The +altar tomb of Henry VII. is truly beautiful; Lord Bacon said, "It is one +of the costliest and daintiest tombs in Europe." Here are tombs of his +mother, and the mother of Lord George Darnley, and Mary, Queen of Scots, +and the Duke of Buckingham, Queen Elizabeth, and Queen Mary. Here, too, +is a sarcophagus, which is supposed to contain the remains of Edward V. +and the Duke of York, discovered in the Tower in the seventeenth +century, in a box. Charles II., William and Mary, and Queen Anne are in +a vault on the south aisle. George II. and his queen, Caroline, lie +together, a side being taken out of each coffin. The fifth chapel is St. +Paul's. The most striking object here is a colossal portrait statue of +James Watt, the great steam-engine perfecter, if not inventor. This is +by Chantrey, and cost six thousand pounds, and seems quite out of place. +Archbishop Usher lies in this chapel. The sixth chapel, called Edward +the Confessor's, pleased me greatly. In the centre is the shrine of the +monarch saint; it is rich in mosaic adornments. The altar tomb of Henry +III. is very grand, and there is a noble bronze statue of the king. +Edward I. is here, and in 1774 his body was found almost entire. Edward +III. and Philippa, his queen, have tombs. Here, too, was Henry V., the +hero of Agincourt, Richard II. and queen. We were delighted with the two +coronation chairs; in one is the old stone of Scone, on which the early +Scotch kings used to be crowned. Edward I. carried it off, and it has +ever since figured in English coronations. It is a large piece of red +and gray sandstone, and claims to have been the veritable pillow on +which Jacob slept. The seventh chapel is that of St. Erasmus, and leads +to the eighth, which is John the Baptist's. Here rest the early abbots +of the church. It contains a very fine monument to Lord Hunsdon, +chamberlain to Queen Bess. Just outside, in the aisle, we found the +noble monument to General Wolfe, and the celebrated work of Roubilliac +in memory of Mrs. Nightingale, where death is seen throwing his dart at +the wife, who falls into her husband's arms. + +All over this noble abbey did we wander again and again in repeated +visits, and admire the finest statuary we have ever seen. Roubilliac was +a wonderful genius, and his monument to Sir Peter Warren is exquisite. +The works of Bacon, Flaxman, Nollekins, Chantrey, and Westmacott have +made me in love with statuary; and I long to see the great works which +are to be seen on the continent. + +Many of the tablets and statues are only honorary, as the persons +commemorated were not buried here; as Shakspeare, Southey, Thomson, +Goldsmith, Dr. Watts, &c. I could spend hours looking at Roubilliac's +monument for the Duke of Argyle and his statue for Handel. + +We attended divine service one Sunday afternoon, and heard a very fine +sermon from Lord John Thynne. The abbey was crowded; the music the best +I ever heard in a church; the preacher was quite eloquent; and Dr. C. +observed that it was the most evangelical sermon he had heard in +England. The subject was on justification by faith: + +I may forget many things that I shall see on our travels, but I think +that this abbey will never vanish from my recollection. I shall always +remember the very position of these great works of art and genius; and I +am more than repaid for all the labor of a voyage. + +Yours affectionately, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 22. + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +No one comes to London without being told by every one to go and see the +parks; so we have been to see these fine breathing places. Hyde Park is +about four hundred acres, and has as many as half a dozen great +entrances. Its position is high, and it is the great drive of the people +of fashion. If you want to see London, you must come here on a fine +summer day in June, at about four o'clock, and you will gaze on the +finest and gayest equipages of England. A very pretty piece of water is +in this park, which is called "the Serpentine River." The best skating +of London is to be seen here, we are told, in hard winters. The entrance +from Piccadilly is by a fine threefold arch. Here is the great Achilles +of bronze, in honor of Wellington, made out of the cannon which the duke +captured in Spain. St. James's and the Green Park: this is the oldest in +London, and was made by Henry VIII. A fine arch affords entrance from +Piccadilly, having a bronze colossal equestrian statue of the Duke of +Wellington. You get grand views of the Abbey towers, Buckingham Palace, +the York Column, and other objects of interest. The two parks are about +one hundred and fifty acres. Regent's Park is one of the most +attractive spots in this great city. Here are villas of the finest kind. +Some of the prettiest terraces and rows of houses about London are here +to be seen. This park contains nearly five hundred acres, and, among +other attractions, the Botanical and Zoölogical Gardens, and the +Coliseum. Victoria Park, near Bethnal Green, is a new one, of about +three hundred acres; but we did not visit it. + +Besides these, there are more than thirty squares, some of which are +very beautiful, and are finely planted and adorned. Belgrave Square is +exceedingly rich in its appearance; the houses are built in the +Corinthian order. + +Northumberland House, at Charing Cross, is the city residence of the +Duke of Northumberland. This, externally, has no great beauty, but is +surmounted by the lion of the Percy family. It was built in 1605. This +noble mansion has been politely opened by its proprietor to the visits +of the foreigners who are here at the exhibition. It is a princely +mansion; and, although we had recently been to Windsor, and seen the +royal residence, yet we thought this palace home almost regal in its +splendor. The staircase is splendid, and the apartments are very +magnificent. The hall and drawing-rooms are quite equal, in decorations +and paintings, to the rooms at Windsor. We were much pleased with two +large pictures--a fox and deer hunt, by Snyders; but there were so +many, that it is difficult to single out those we admired. There are +some beautiful paintings of Napoleon, and exquisite carvings in ivory. +In one of the saloons we were all struck with a large Sevres china vase, +presented to the Duke of Northumberland by Charles X., at his +coronation, at which occasion the duke was present as ambassador +extraordinary, and made a most astonishing display of English wealth and +liberality. + +Sion House, near Brentford, is another palace belonging to the duke. +This noble mansion is on the banks of the Thames, and is composed of +freestone. It is very gorgeously furnished, and the hothouses and +conservatories are not much, if any, inferior to Chatsworth. This +mansion has also, been opened to visitors from abroad, and we received +orders from the minister. + +One of the sweetest features about the metropolis, to my taste, is the +vast number of charming villages that surround it. Go where you may, you +fall in with cottages, villas, and mansions, that convey to the mind the +ideas of comfort, elegance, and wealth. + +I find from Weld that he forgot to tell you that we went to St. +Margaret's Church, which stands only a few yards off from Westminster +Abbey. This is a very old building, and said to be of the days of Edward +I. In this very building the celebrated fast-day sermons of the Long +Parliament were preached, and I felt much interest in thinking how often +Cromwell, Pym, Peters, and Harrison had worshipped God in that house. In +this church, too, the Assembly of Divines worshipped, and also the +Scotch commissioners, and took the covenant. This church boasts a +painted window of exquisite beauty, which came as a present, from +Holland, to Henry VII.; and the historical associations of this window +are very curious, and well worth your reading about. The monuments of +this sanctuary are far from being devoid of interest. I may name, among +others, those to Caxton, Sir Walter Raleigh, Sir James Harrington, +author of the great book, "Oceana," the wife of Milton, the mother of +Cromwell, all of whom are here interred. + +While I am speaking of churches, let me tell you that, close by our +hotel, is a very fine one, that pleases me exceedingly. It is called St. +Martin's-in-the-Fields, but is at present quite central as it regards +the metropolis. I think the portico is to my eye equal to any piece of +architecture in London. It was built in 1726. A church stood here for +many centuries; and in 1680, Baxter said that forty thousand people of +the parish could not get into the church; and he adds that they "lived +like Americans, without hearing a sermon for many years." This church +has an exquisite chime of bells, and they very much amused me every +morning. + +Yours affectionately, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 23. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +I have not written you for some time. But today I have seen a number of +things which I am sure you would be pleased with, and so I will tell you +about them. Early in the morning we went to see the Mansion House. This +is the dwelling-house of the lord mayor of London. It is a fine-looking +building, but has a queer upper story, with small windows, which look +badly, over the noble pillars and portico. The great room used for +public occasions is the Egyptian Hall, for what reason does not appear +from any thing about it. Here the lord mayor has his great feasts. I +should like to be in London on the 9th of November, which is his day of +inauguration; and this is the great day for Londoners. He rides in a +large carved gilt carriage. I believe he goes to Westminster by water, +in a splendid barge, and comes back in his coach. The salary is eight +thousand pounds; but the expenses are beyond this amount, and some +persons refuse to serve, and pay a fine of five hundred pounds; but +this is a rare case, and enough are ready to pay for the honor. In the +city the mayor ranks before the royal family. The title of "your +lordship" ceases at the expiration of his office. + +Our next visit was to the Royal Exchange, a very noble quadrangle, which +was finished in 1844. It stands finely between the Bank of England and +the Mansion House, and in front there is a sort of open space, or +widening of the streets. This is the third building which has occupied +the same spot--the two earlier ones were both burnt down. The original +Exchange was built by Sir Thomas Gresham, and opened by Queen Elizabeth +in 1570. It was copied from the famous Burse at Antwerp, which still +stands. It is singular that, in the great fires of 1666 and 1838, the +statue of Sir Thomas Gresham escaped uninjured. The Exchange is built of +Portland stone, and already has acquired, from the smoke of London, a +venerable tinge. The portico, I am told, is the largest in the kingdom; +but the one at St. Martin's Church I like better. Crossing over the +road, we were at the Bank of England. This is a truly immense affair. +The walls measure fourteen hundred and sixty feet. It wad built in 1734, +but has had many alterations and additions, and now covers four acres. +We did not go into it. + +The docks of London are among the attractions of the place. They are +called St. Catharine's, London, East India, West India, Commercial, &c. +These are tar too great an affair for me to describe; and to look at +them, and then think of writing an account, is very much like a small +boy opening a book of mathematics and trying to understand it. What do +you think of the tobacco warehouse, at the docks covering five acres? +Then the tea in bonded warehouses was worth twenty-five millions of +dollars; and there are ten millions of pounds of pepper, six millions of +gallons of wine, and other things in proportion. I inquired about the +shipping, and was told that there were about four thousand seven hundred +and fifty vessels, and eighty thousand seamen, employed in the foreign +commerce of the city; and beyond all this, twenty-one thousand coasting +vessels, averaging five or six men to each craft. Nothing in London +amazes us like these docks. Here you see Malays, Turks, Lascars, +Chinese, Russians, Portuguese, Dutch, French, Negroes, and men of all +nations. + +We went several times to walk through Covent Garden Market, and to see +it to advantage you must go very early in the morning. The supply of +fruits and flowers is perfectly astonishing, and the perfume is very +fine. You little imagine, Charley, the prices that early vegetables and +fruits fetch. A cucumber and onion, wrapped up in grape leaves, will, +in February, March, and early part of April, find purchasers at two, +three, and four dollars. Strawberries, peaches, and pines are sold in +early season at what we should think "awful" prices. The hothouse grapes +are very beautiful, and the vegetable productions are more carefully +raised, and in greater variety, than with us. If you want to know all +about Covent Garden Market, you must read Mayhew on London Labor--a nice +book. + +We boys had a treat the other day at an autograph collector's. His +collection was large and rare, but his prices very high. I have saved a +catalogue for you. + +To-morrow we are off for the continent, and we are very busy in making +our arrangements; so I must close. Our next will be from _La Belle +France._ + +Yours affectionately, + +GEORGE. + + + + +Letter 24. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +On a fine morning we left London, by rail, for Dover, in company with +the Rev. Dr. Murray, of New Jersey, and Dr. Chetwood, who made quite a +pleasant addition to our party. On reaching Dover, we were gratified +with the commanding position of the castle, which stands upon the white +chalky cliffs so celebrated by Shakspeare. The town lies in a charming +valley. Dover boasts of high antiquity. The Saxons and Romans both left +enduring memorials of their residence. Its importance was felt at a very +early day, on account of its being the best and authorized port to carry +on intercourse with France. Dover Castle was a strong fortification when +William the Conqueror landed. We found a steamer ready to start, and in +a few minutes were all on board. The Straits of Dover are but twenty-one +miles wide; and yet, in this short passage of barely two hours, we all +suffered sadly from sea sickness. The boat was small, the passengers +were numerous, and all were thankful to plant their feet upon the soil +of the republic. The examination of our passports, and refreshment at +the station-house, occupied about half an hour, and we again entered on +our journey by the rail. I shall say nothing of the place, at present, +as we fully intend to pass a day here, on our return, to examine this +interesting old city. We found the cars good, the railroad excellent but +every thing looked strange. No farms laid out in fine fields, and +divided off by hedges, as in England; or fences and stone walls, as with +us. We every where noticed women working in the field. We passed through +St. Omer, a fortified town, of twenty thousand inhabitants. This is a +town where many English Catholics have been sent for education. We then +came to Lille, which looked like a large city. It has about seventy +thousand inhabitants. The fortifications look very strong, and were +constructed by the great Vauban. This place has been besieged several +times--once by the Duke of Marlborough, for three months, when it +surrendered under Marshal Boufflers. We were amazed at the vast number +of windmills--amounting to hundreds--every where to be seen around the +town; and the tall chimneys in the town tell plainly that this is a +great manufacturing place. The windmills are employed in preparing flax +for linen. + +Douai was our next town. It has about eighteen thousand inhabitants, and +has a foundery for ordnance. The Theological Seminary here has been +famous, and most of the Catholic clergy of England and Ireland were +formerly educated here. Arras is a town of about twenty-five thousand +population, and is celebrated as the birthplace of Robespierre. It is +said to be a very beautiful place, but we saw little of it. The cars +next passed through Amiens, a city of about fifty thousand inhabitants. +It was at this city that a treaty of peace was made between France and +England, in 1802. Clermont is a very neat little town, of about five +thousand inhabitants. It has a fine old castle, and every thing looked +lively and prosperous. Pontoise, on the River Oise, is a small town; +and I should think that, from the upper part of the town, the prospect +is very beautiful. + +We reached Paris in about eleven hours and a half from London. Really, +this seems very strange, that I should breakfast in London and dine at +Paris. After having our luggage examined at the station, by the police, +we repaired at once to the Hotel Windsor, on the Rue Rivoli. This was +the hotel where Dr. C. had his quarters, fifteen years ago; and is it +not strange that we have the same suite of rooms that he then occupied? +We have a fine drawing-room, a dining-room, and three good chambers. Our +hotel is exactly opposite the gardens of the Tuileries, and is in the +pleasantest part of the city. James, you know, was once here for three +months; and he has quite a knowledge of the city, and seems perfectly at +home. We take our breakfast in our apartments or the coffee-room, as +suits us best, at about nine o'clock; our dinners in some good _café_, +in various parts of the city, or at the _table d'hôte_, at Meurice's +Hotel, which is just next door to us. In calling on one or two persons, +we found them in old apartments, but quite noble rooms, as high up as +four and five stories; and we hear that many families live in the same +building, and that many very respectable people live in the sixth, and +even seventh story. This I should never like. Whenever we go out, we +leave our key with the _concierge_ or his wife, who live in a snug +little apartment just inside the great gate, which opens into a +well-paved court. We have determined not to engage a guide in Paris, +because it is often annoying to have a coarse, vulgar mind disturbing +you, when all you ask is silence and your own reflections. It is quite a +mistake to suppose that you cannot get along without a _valet de +place_--for in every hotel, and almost every large establishment, there +are persons to be found who speak English. We paid our respects to our +good friend the consul, and found him very comfortably settled down in +his office, and residing in excellent style. A pleasant evening with his +family made us all think of our old times on board the Arctic. The day +after we arrived was James's birthday, and he was to give us a dinner, +and had invited the consul and his son to dine with us. Well, at five we +met at the consulate, and we boys walked ahead with Mr. G., Jr., leaving +the doctor and the consul to bring up the rear. He supposed that his +father understood where he proposed to take us, and so we went on +speedily. In the Rue Vivienne they lost sight of us; we arrived at the +Café Vachette, on the boulevards, and ordered dinner for the party. The +gentlemen, however, kept walking the street for two hours. At last they +gave up the matter as a bad case, and took refuge for a late dinner by +themselves in a neighboring _café_. At nine we all met, sadly +disappointed. The pleasant occasion had been quite disarranged, and some +hard jokes passed upon our want of tact in not sending out scouts to +search the Rue Vivienne, with the geography of which the doctor declares +he is now perfectly acquainted--having tramped it for two hours with the +consul. Of course, we all have to take their jokes upon our defrauding +them of a fine dinner. We have dined since at the _Trois Frères +Provençaux_, which has the reputation of being one of the best _cafés_ +in Paris. Our room commanded a perfect view of the quadrangle of the +Palais Royal, and the spectacle was highly interesting. The +accommodations of the room we occupied were very fine; and nothing could +surpass the beauty of the table linen, plate, &c. We are about to +commence the sights of the city in earnest, and are this evening to +arrange our plans. + +Yours affectionately, + +GEORGE. + + + + +Letter 25. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +I like this city very much--every one seems so happy out of doors. Not +only the poor, but the wealthy, are fond of the open air; and a great +deal of time is spent in the gardens and on the boulevards. Every place +seems to have provision made for the enjoyment of the people. Ices and +lemonade are to be found wherever you go. The appearance of the streets +in Paris is much gayer than those of London. You see a much greater +number of women walking out, and they are generally very neatly dressed. +But the streets do not look as substantial as they do in London. If +there is more that is imposing, there is less that keeps up your wonder. +I do not feel able to think that the people here have much business to +do, for every one seems to be engaged in pleasure; and yet there are +great concerns going on, and the fine manufactures of this city are only +to be done by labor and attention. Nothing, at our first glances at the +city, have pleased us more than the profusion of flowers every where to +be seen. It is quite common to see men with a rose in the button hole, +or a beautiful carnation. The roses are my admiration. I never saw such +beauties before; and whether it is owing to the climate, or to +scientific cultivation, I know not, but certainly I never have beheld +such variety or perfection. In the flower shops you will find very large +bunches of rosebuds, each bunch made up exclusively of buds of one size, +from the dimensions of a pea in all gradations up to the diameter of a +half dollar--not a leaf opened, simply a bouquet of rosebuds, and the +whole embowered in a delicate sheet of white paper. I reckoned the +contents of one, and found two hundred and sixty-seven buds not larger +than a common pea, and the price was only a franc. The moss roses are +beyond all my conceptions of floral beauty; and, go where I may, I find +every niche of ground adorned with standard roses of various hues, and +the walls and windows are beautified with brilliant geraniums, which are +evidently great favorites. + +We had a funny affair yesterday. We all went to make a call upon Mr. +D----, and found his residence in a splendid part of the city; but, +instead of being ushered into his drawing-room, we were brought into the +saloon of no less a personage than the Lord Bishop of Jamaica! He +politely directed us to the next apartment, where we spent an agreeable +hour with the family, and found that similar mistakes occur almost +daily. + +Our first tramp for a sight was to Notre Dame; and I shall never forget, +Charley, my first view of this cathedral. The exterior is more striking +than any church edifice that I have yet seen. No engraving can afford a +fair idea of its grandeur to one who has not seen it, though it will +help my mind, to recall its beauties whenever I see the picture. You are +so well read about Paris, that I hardly need tell you that eight +centuries have rolled away since Notre Dame was built. It is regarded as +the noblest Gothic pile in France, and is the pride of Paris. The front +is one hundred and twenty feet wide, and the richness of the carvings +upon the exterior is wonderful. I am really glad to see that great pains +are taking to restore and adorn this church. The decayed stones are +taken out, and new ones replaced, and the carvings also are renewed +where necessary, so that future ages may see what so delights us. The +two towers are forty feet square and two hundred high, and you ascend by +a staircase of four hundred steps. The form of the church is that of the +Latin cross. Its dimensions inside are four hundred feet by one hundred +and forty, and the height is one hundred feet. All through the cathedral +is a line of Gothic arches supported by columns, and, as you enter the +great door, you see the entire edifice. The walls look bare to my eye, +in spite of the paintings. We were much pleased at seeing the spot where +Napoleon was crowned; and George was in ecstasies, for you know how +thoroughly he goes in for his beau ideal of the hero. Here are, the +splendid candelabra which the emperor gave on the occasion. We heard +mass, but the service was very formal, and the priest might have been a +real downeaster, for he had a horrid nasal twang, and his +"_sanctissime_" was "_shanktissime_." The history of these churches is +strange, and I think a pretty good book might be written on the romance +of church architecture. The portal of the north aisle of the choir was +erected by a vile assassin, the Duke of Burgundy, who murdered his +cousin, the Duke of Orleans, in 1407. This, of course, was his penance, +and fully expiated his crime. The great bell weighs thirty-two thousand +pounds, and was baptized in presence of Louis XIV., and is called +Emanuel Louise Therese, after his queen. I cannot attempt to describe +the beauties of this building, inside or out. The exterior is all flying +buttresses, crocketed pinnacles, and sculpture. Inside you see chapel +after chapel; and as to windows of painted glass, they are studies for +hours. The rose windows are exquisite. + +We repaired to a small chapel used as a sacristy, or treasure-house of +the church. Here we saw the coronation robes of Napoleon, and splendid +capes and embroideries, in gold and silver, given by Charles X. and +Louis Philippe; and here, too, is the vertebræ of the late Archbishop of +Paris, who was killed in the revolution of 1848. The bone has a silver +arrow tracing the course of the bullet, which lies beside it. This is in +time to be a saintly relic, but it seems to me a filthy sight, and in +wretched taste. But Popery knows well what to do with dead men's bones. +For a minute description of this church, I would refer you to three +volumes, called the "History of Paris," published by Galignani. On our +return we went to the Hotel de Ville, and had the company of M. O----n, +whose kindness did much for us on several occasions. The Hotel de +Ville stands in the Place de Grève, where so much blood has been shed in +other days. Here the martyrs of the Protestant faith have been put to +death. Here it was that Dubourg was strangled and burnt by order of +Francis II. Dubourg was a noble character. His last words were, "Father, +abandon me not; neither will I abandon thee." + +This noble pile was begun in 1533, and only completed in 1841, and in +the modern improvements fifteen millions have been expended. The whole +now forms an immense quadrangle. The front is Corinthian, with pillars +and niches between the windows. A vast number of statues adorn the +front, and others are in preparation. + +It was at the doorway in the centre that Lamartine, "the noblest Roman +of them all," so gloriously withstood the mob in February, 1848, +declaring that the red flag should not be the flag of France. I wish you +could see this palace, for such it is, though occupied by the city +authorities. London has nothing to approach it in splendor. The +staircases are gorgeous, and are so rich in sculpture that only a +sculptor could properly speak of them. We saw the room where Robespierre +held his council and attempted suicide, and also the window where our +Lafayette embraced Louis Philippe, and presented him to the mob in +1830. It is the same window where poor Louis XVI. addressed the savages, +when he wore the cap of liberty. By the way, I hate the sight of that +cap, which always reminds me of the lamp-post executions of the French +capital in 1792-3. Its prevalence in our happy country is owing to the +French mania which once possessed the people, and has very much died +out. The apartments are regal, and some of them, I think, quite superior +to those of Windsor Castle. In this building is a fine library, and here +are deposited the vast collection of American books obtained by +Vattemare, whom, you recollect, we saw at Washington. + +I cannot tell you how sorely vexed we are to find the Louvre shut up for +repairs and decoration; every week they say it is to be reopened, but I +fear we shall leave Paris ere it happens. + +How much we would all give to have you here; for, though we are glad to +tell you what we see, we feel there are scores of objects which interest +us that we have to pass over, but which would make your eyes glisten, if +you could gaze upon. Well, my dear fellow, stick to your business, make +your fortune, and then come and look at the beautiful and fair in the +old world; and who knows but perhaps we may yet chat cosily together in +Paris? O, I do love to wander through this city by moonlight, and gaze +upon the bright, lofty buildings as they loom up so gloriously in the +mild lustre of a silvery night. God bless you. + +Yours affectionately, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 26. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We have been to dine at the Palais Royal, at the _Trois Frères +Provençaux_, of which I suppose the boys have told you; and I shall only +speak about the fine building, so renowned all over the world. The +Palais Royal is to Paris what Paris is to France. Its history is briefly +this: Cardinal Richelieu built it for himself; but the king, Louis +XIII., was jealous, and the wily old priest gave it to the monarch, and, +after Richelieu's death, he moved into it. In 1692, it fell into the +hands of Philippe, Duke of Orleans, as a gift, or marriage portion, from +Louis XIV., and here the great Orleans collection of paintings was +gathered, and which was sold in 1789, at the breaking out of the great +troubles. In 1814, Louis Philippe obtained it as his inheritance, and +lived there till 1831. The garden is very fine, and is about seven +hundred and fifty feet by three hundred, and has beautiful rows of +lime-trees, trimmed into shape, as are most of these trees in Paris. In +the centre are flower gardens and a basin of water, with a fine +fountain. In this open space are beautiful bronze and marble statues. +One I admired exceedingly; it is Eurydice, stung by a snake. In this +garden are hundreds of persons under the trees, on chairs, which are +hired, where they read and take refreshments. Under the arcades which +surround the area are the most tasty shops of Paris, and where you may +get any thing you please. A gayer sight than this same Palais Royal, or, +as they now call it, Palais National, cannot be seen in this world. I +shall not attempt to tell you about the apartments of the palace, and +which you can read of at your leisure. What a loss it was to the world +when, in February, 1848, six hundred thousand engravings, all classified +by Louis Philippe, and making one hundred and twenty-two enormous +folios, were destroyed by the mob, and the queen's own library also! + +We lounged about from one shop to another, and made purchases of some +pretty things, which we hope may serve to show friends at home that we +did not quite forget them. + +The Passage d'Orleans will never die out from my memory, nor shall I +ever forget the Café d'Orleans, with its mirrors, walls, and ceilings, +all radiant with a thousand lights. We find at every few steps the +magazine for the Indian weed, and all varieties of pipe, from the +commonest _en bois_ to the elegantly carved _ecume de mer_, which would +cost two or three hundred francs. Here, too, are the Theatres Français +and Palais Royal, and other places of amusement. + +In our walks about the city we are sure to have all the notable places +pointed out; and one morning, just after I had obtained a Henry IV. +silver coin, in fine preservation, we were taken home by a long walk +through the Rue St. Honore. The house No. 3, in this street, is the one +in front of which Henry IV. was assassinated by Ravaillac. A bust of the +king stands against the second story, with an inscription. In the Rue +Vivienne, No. 34, we saw the house where Molière died, on which is a +marble tablet, with this inscription: "_Molière est mort dans cette +maison, le _17_ Février_, 1673, _à l'âge de_ 51 _ans._" At the corner of +the same street, where a small passage way branches off, is a fine +monument to the memory of the great poet and the noblest comic writer of +France. The statue is of bronze, in a sitting posture; on each side are +figures,--one humorous, the other serious,--both looking at the statue. +At the foot of the monument is a basin to receive water, which flows +from three lions' heads. This work was put up in 1844, with public +services, on which occasion the first men of France took a part. Another +morning's walk led us to the Rue de l'École de Médecine, and in this +street Marat lived, at No. 20, and here it was, in a small room, that he +was stabbed, while bathing, by Charlotte Corday, in 1793. And in this +same street was held the old club of the Cordeliers. + +When I see the places of which I have heard so often it seems very +interesting, and will forever identify the scenes with my future +reading. + +We all enjoyed a visit to the palace of the Luxembourg. This edifice was +begun in the sixteenth century, and the present palace was chiefly built +early in the next one, by Marie de Medicis, in imitation of one at +Florence. Bonaparte used it when chief consul. The old senate held its +sessions there till its dissolution, in 1814. I never saw a building +whose proportions appeared to me so elegant. The court is a +parallelogram of three hundred and sixty by three hundred feet. The +front consists of two pavilions, joined by terraces, and in the centre +rises a cupola, around which are statues. In such a palace fine rooms +are to be expected, and here they are in great number. The Senate +Chamber or Chamber of Peers, is very suitable for its purpose. The +library is good, and contains about fifteen thousand volumes. The +picture gallery is large, and at present principally filled with +pictures of living artists, and at his death the picture of each one is +removed to the Louvre. All the great paintings of Napoleon's battles are +gone to Versailles; so we shall see them in the series. The chapel is an +exquisite gem: it has, beyond all comparison, the most devotional air +of any thing I have seen _of the sort_. + +The gardens are fine, and have some noble terraces, adorned with plenty +of statues, some of which are quite old; but a great many new ones, by +living artists, are rapidly taking their places. The balustrades of the +terraces are beautified with groups of children, athletæ, &c. Here are +some fine old orange-trees, which were throwing out their blossoms most +fragrantly; and I must not forget the noble clusters of chestnut-trees +which are on the sides of the walks. The garden is a lovely spot, and I +saw hundreds of old and young, who seemed to enjoy themselves highly. I +am half surprised to find myself more delighted in Europe with the +completeness and splendor of the gardens and public grounds than with +the palaces and their internal gorgeousness. If I could carry back to my +own beloved country any thing from England or France, it should be their +gardens, their walks, their libraries and museums. As to the comforts +and elegances of life, we have enough of them for our good. The Musée +d'Artillerie is quite a place of interest, and here are seen some fine +suits of ancient armor. The arrangement is good, and an hour's attention +is well repaid. + +Yours affectionately, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 27. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +This has been a great day for enjoyment, and has made us all in love +with Paris. We have seen, this morning, that which has pleased me more +than all else I have looked at in Europe. We spent several hours at the +Hotel de Cluny, in the Rue des Mathurins. I am surprised that so many +Americans come to Paris and never see this castle of curiosities. To +understand our gratification, I must bore you a little with its history, +and then you will see what a treat we enjoyed. This venerable pile was +erected on the site of the Palais des Thermes, formerly the +dwelling-place of the Roman governors of Gaul. Here Julian lived when he +was made emperor of Rome, in 360. Of the extraordinary remains of this +palace I shall tell you by and by. On this spot, then, in 1480, an abbot +of Cluny commenced this building, and it was completed in 1505. This +magnificent monastery--the city residence of the monks of Cluny--was +often made the residence of royal and distinguished visitors. Here for +two years lived Mary, the daughter of Henry VII. of England, and widow +of Louis XII. of France, who, while here, married the Duke of Suffolk. +Her chamber still exists, and we saw it in high preservation. This +marriage, you will remember, laid the foundation for the claim of Lady +Jane Grey to the crown. Here, too, for a season, the excellent abbess +and the nuns of Port Royal found a refuge. Some forty years ago, it came +into the hands of M. Sommerard, a man devoted to antiquarian pursuits, +and here he expended a large property in forming a vast collection of +all sorts of relics he could gather belonging to the medieval ages. A +few years ago, he died, and then the government wisely purchased the +hotel and its unrivalled museum for half a million of francs; and +additions are constantly made to it of every curiosity that can +illustrate the habits and manners of the early history of France and +Europe. The building is very striking in its first aspect. It has +several Gothic turrets, and very rich windows, and the court yards and +garden are all in keeping. What good times those old abbots, and monks +must have had in their visits to Paris, in such a palace as this was! +You pass from room, to room, all filled with the antique, till you get +leg-weary. The floors are exquisitely beautiful--some in fine old black +oak, let in, in patterns; others are bricks and tiles, in mosaic. Then +the old mantel-pieces are wonderfully fine. We saw plenty of tapestry, +old as the hills; and one set of hangings was the history of David and +Bathsheba. Some of the bedsteads are very curious. One belonged to +Francis I. Perhaps the largest and most valuable collection of carved +Wood furniture in the world is here to be seen. Such cabinets, chairs, +tables, chests, I never imagined. The work is of the most delicate and +complicated character. Then you find a wonderful collection of glass and +earthen ware--cups and goblets belonging to men of note of every age in +French history. One room is full of ancient armor, another of gems, +enamels, &c, another of pictures of the most curious kind; and as to +mirrors and looking-glasses, they are in great plenty; and china enough +to make some ladies in America whom I know break the commandment. + +You can fancy, Charley, what sort of a place this must be, when I tell +you that the catalogue of this collection is a volume of two hundred and +forty octavo pages, and embraces eighteen hundred and ninety-five +particulars. I have the catalogue, and can assure you that it includes +some queer antiquities, of which we cannot speak particularly at +present. + +A word or two about the ruins of Julian's Palace of the Baths. Here is +still a vast hall, which was doubtless the place for cold baths. The +dimensions are sixty feet by thirty-five. In the cellars are the evident +remains of the warm baths. The walls are of immense thickness, and will +probably last as long as the earth on which they rest. This hall is the +place of deposit for any Roman sculpture that may be found in the +excavations of the city. + +I am sure that, next to the Crystal Palace, this has been our greatest +treat. We enjoyed this morning the more, because we had the company of +Mr. George Sumner, who has lived in Paris so long that he is perfectly +familiar with every object of interest. I never met with any one who +appeared to have so much local knowledge as he possesses. He knows the +history of every thing, and he seems at home on all names, dates, and +facts of other ages. Whenever we read up, after a walk with him, we find +that he knows all that is known; and in truth he talks like a book, but +better than most books. The attention of this gentleman has been very +great to us boys, and he seems never tired when doing us kindness. But +if Mr. S. knows places well, he is no less intimate with men; and +probably no American has ever enjoyed his opportunities to cultivate the +acquaintance of the best and greatest men in Paris. + +We have visited the Church of St. Sulpice, which was begun in 1655, and +only completed late in the last century. The portico is very grand, and +is a double row of Doric pillars, forty feet high. It has two towers, +which are over two hundred feet high, and on which are telegraphs. The +church forms a cross, and is four hundred and thirty-two feet in +length, one hundred and seventy-four in width, and ninety-nine in +height. The organ is finely carved, and is more elaborate in its work +than any I have seen yet. The statuary, both in bronze and marble, here, +is beautiful, and the candelabra are greatly admired. As to pictures, I +can only say they are many and fine. The marble monument and statue to +Languet de Gergy, the former _curé_ of this parish, and who mainly +contributed to its erection or completion, is much admired, and on this +tomb is the most elegant inscription of modern times. But I cannot +insert it here. Directly in front of the church, in an open square, is a +very fine fountain, which partakes of the ecclesiastical in its +style--having in four niches the statues of Bossuet, Massillon, +Fléchier, and Fénélon. + +In our walk we were all struck with an immense wooden pile, which we +found was the Bibliothèque St. Geneviéve. The front is very chaste, and +has very many arched windows. The library is more than three hundred +feet in length, and is covered on the exterior with the names of all the +great authors of every age and nation. We saw the names of many of our +countrymen--Washington, Franklin, Rumford, Clinton, Cooper, Prescott, +Irving, &c. We were unable to enter, as repairs were in progress, but +were told that the library has two hundred thousand volumes, and +several thousand MSS. + +We have all been much gratified with the Church of St. Etienne du Mont. +It boasts an antiquity that dates back to 1131, and its tower and turret +are known to be as early as 1222. The exterior is remarkable for a +strange mixture of architecture, and some of the details are very +beautiful. The interior cannot fail to interest a thoughtful person, I +think. The pictures are very fine indeed, and some of the marbles are of +the highest excellence. We went into the little Chapel of St. Genevieve, +the patron saint of Paris, where is the tomb of the saint. The tomb was +literally stuck over with small tallow candles, and looked like a piece +of meat larded. The room was filled with worshippers, all on their +knees; and two women had as much anguish in their faces as I ever saw. +All the people kneeling at this tomb seemed far more intent and in +earnest than the hundreds at grand mass in the church proper. Just as we +stepped outside this chapel, we found on the wall the monuments of +Racine and Pascal, who are both buried in this church. The church was +full of people, and in one little chapel the priest was baptizing an +infant. We went in and looked on. It was the first time I had ever +witnessed this monstrous mummery in the Catholic church; and I called in +the Dr. and Mr. S., who were looking at some statuary. The priest was +hardly decent at his work. He did it all in a hurry,--put oil and +something else on the child, fore and aft,--and how men and women could +stand and let the stupidity take place on their children, I cannot +understand. After seeing Pascal's grave, and thinking of his immortal +works, it was poor preparation for the mountebank exhibition, and +awkward work of making Christians, that we witnessed. You know, Charley, +that I am not a lover of Romanism, but I never felt so thankful as on +that day for being a Protestant. + +The pictures of this church are very well worthy of careful +notice--especially two, said to have been given by the city to the +saint, who caused a famine to stay its ravages, and restored a sick king +by intercession. + +Now, pray, do not think me church mad if I carry you once more to +another old one. I am sure, if you had seen it, that it would cause you +to talk about it often. Well, it is the Church St. Germain des Pres. +This is regarded as the oldest in Paris, and was originally an abbey. +There was a church here as early as 560. This was probably built about +the middle of the ninth century, and its completion was in the twelfth; +for it was consecrated by Pope Alexander III. In this church was the +tomb of Childebert, the founder of the first edifice. The abbey had a +refectory, cloisters, &c, was surrounded by a moat, and had been +fortified. A large open field, close by, was the resort of duellists, +and many a bloody affray has there occurred. Casimir, King of Poland, +was an abbot of this church. The revolution was sadly injurious to this +fine sanctuary, and it was for a time converted into a saltpetre +manufactory. Charles X. repaired it, and after him Louis Philippe +carefully superintended its restoration. The inside of the church is a +cross, with a circular choir; and the arches are semi-circular, and +indicate great antiquity. The restoration of the nave and choir has been +most carefully done, at immense expense. The roof of the choir is +painted deep blue, with stars. The capitals of the columns are richly +gilt, and the shafts are painted in red stripes--exact copies of the old +devices. Nothing can be finer than the marble altar and the carved +stalls of the choir. Nor does the church lack for historical names among +its dead. Here are the tombs of Earl Douglass, Descartes, Mabillon, +Montfaucon, and Casimir of Poland, who died, abbot, in 1672. Every thing +here in ecclesiastical architecture is so different from all that we +have in our country, that I examine these noble relics with great +pleasure, and do not know but I shall soon become as antiquarian in my +taste as-you know who. + +Yours affectionately, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 28. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +On a fine morning we rode over to the Jardin des Plantes, accompanied by +Mr. R----, whose long residence has made him very familiar with this +lovely spot. I think we all looked forward to this excursion with great +anticipation, because we knew that this was the most famous garden in +Europe; and then, in connection with it, are the richest cabinets in the +world of natural history, mineralogy, geology, and a noble collection of +living animals from all countries. Ever since 1635, the world has been +placed under contribution to enrich this spot. The greatest botanists +and naturalists of Europe have labored here. Buffon himself was the +great man of the place in his day. Even revolutionary fury spared this +retreat and treasury of Nature. Bonaparte made it his pet, and when the +troops of Europe were at the walls of Paris, they agreed to respect and +preserve the spot so dear to science. This establishment is on the banks +of the river, and there are many portals by which entrance may be +obtained. The gardens are very large, but I cannot speak of their exact +size. They are in the neatest order. Every shrub and flower, plant and +tree, is labelled, so that reference is easy. I was delighted to see, +on a lofty eminence, the cedar of Lebanon. It is a glorious tree, and +was planted here in 1734, and is now about twelve feet round at its +base. We also saw some palm-trees which were given by Louis XIV. They +were, I should think, nearly thirty feet high. + +The Menagerie has long been famous, and is most admirably laid out in +walks and enclosures, so that the animals have plenty of room for +exercise and pasture. Since the days of Noah's ark, I suppose there +never was such a collection of animals, clean and unclean. The bears, +elephants, lions, and tigers are all what are called first-rate +specimens. + +We were pointed out the house where the celebrated Cuvier lived, and +which was his favorite residence. Here was his life's labor, the +Zoölogical Cabinet, which he arranged according to his system. Only +fancy a house about four hundred feet long, having three stories, and +all filled up with nearly two hundred thousand specimens; and the +preparations are almost as fine as the animal was in life. + +The Museum of Comparative Anatomy, also, was the labor of Cuvier. The +collections of mineralogy and geology are very extensive; but I did not +have much time to examine them, nor are they as much in my line as some +other things. The specimens of precious stones were curious, and I was +pleased to see amber containing perfect insects, perhaps antediluvian +insects. And so we employed three hours upon what I should have liked to +pass three whole days. But it would take years of diligent study to +understand what is here to be seen. + +If a person walks about Paris and inquires much as to the history of the +city and its improvements, as we Americans say, he will soon find that +Paris has been chiefly indebted for her grandeur to Henry IV., Louis +XIV., Napoleon, and Louis Philippe. Bridges, places, arches, and +fountains show how much Paris owes to these rulers. Of fountains there +are, I should think, nearly a hundred in the city, and some are +exceedingly fine. The Seine is not much of an affair. With us, it would +be only a muddy brook. Some of the bridges that span it are fine. I have +seen nothing in Paris more picturesque than the prospect from the Pont +Neuf. It is my favorite stand point. Off to the right are the towers of +Notre Dame, and the long line of old houses which tell of centuries upon +centuries since they were built; and on the left of the river are the +Hotel de Ville, St. Germain L'Auxerrois; and some of the most venerable +streets. From the bell tower of St. Germain the signal was rung for the +infamous massacre of the Protestants, on St. Bartholomew's eve, 23d of +August, 1572. In the Rue de l'Arbre sec, at No. 14, was Admiral Coligny +murdered on that occasion. It was formerly known as the Hotel Ponthieu, +but is to be demolished in a few weeks, to make way for improvements. We +felt a desire to see the spot where the Bastile formerly stood, and +which was destroyed by the mob in July, 1789, and the key of which is +now at Mount Vernon, having been sent as a present to Washington. This +was the theatre of the greatest resistance made by the insurgents in +June, 1848; and here, too, it was that the Archbishop of Paris met with +his death. On the site of the Bastile, Louis Philippe laid the +foundation of a column which commemorates the revolution of 1830. This +column is of bronze, and is one hundred and sixty-three feet high, in +addition to the pedestal of white marble, supported by immense granite +blocks. The diameter of the column is, I believe, twelve feet, and it +cost about twelve hundred thousand francs. There is no masonry in the +interior. The staircase is suspended, and the whole concern vibrates +with the passing breeze. I did not ascend, you may be sure. The +Corinthian capital, over which is a gallery with rails, is very +beautiful, and is the largest casting in bronze that is known--or, +rather, was, for I _think_ that the Amazon at the London Exhibition will +take the palm for size. On the globe which surmounts the pillar stands a +colossal gilt figure, which represents Liberty. On the bands which +encircle the pillar are the names of those who were killed in the +three days of July, amounting to fire hundred and four. All around and +beneath are interred the remains of these patriots. + +[Illustration: Colonne de Juillet.] + +We are going to take the Cemetery at Père la Chaise for to-morrow's +excursion; and the rest of the day I must devote to letters home, as the +packet day is close at hand. + +Yours, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 29. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +This morning, as we were taking a very comfortable breakfast at the +coffee-room of our hotel, and as I was reading Galignani's daily paper, +I found a person at the next table addressing me, in nasal twang, +"Stranger, is this fellow Galignani a reliable chap?" I assured him that +he passed for an authority. Laying down his paper on the table, he +pathetically described the tramp which the programme for the +sight-seeing of yesterday's paper had given him, and declared his +inability to keep up with the instructions for that day. Finding that he +was a character, I carried on the conversation; and he talked most +edifyingly to all in the room, as he spoke loud enough to be heard at +the very end. I inquired if he had been to London. His reply was, "I +reckon I have; why, I come on purpose to see the _Crystial_ Palace." +"Well, sir," I said, "and how did you like it?" "O, that exhibition is +some!" "And pray, sir, what did you think of the Greek Slave?" "There, +now, stranger, I takes it that where she were raised _cotton was +dreadful scarce."_ This, was too much and too good; and I think it is by +far the best thing I have heard about the exhibition. How the boys +managed to keep quiet, I know not; but they did as well as could be +expected. The room was thoroughly awake, and I resigned our countryman +to other hands. + +After breakfast, we rode to the Cemetery of Père la Chaise. This spot +has for centuries been celebrated for its beauty; and, for a period of +more than one hundred years, the Jesuits had a country residence here. +They had it early in the sixteenth century, or, perhaps, at the close of +the fifteenth. Louis XIV. made his confessor, Père la Chaise, the +superior of the society; and in 1705 it was the head-quarters of +Jesuitism in France. + +The present cemetery was consecrated in 1804; and the entire grounds are +walled in, and they are very nearly two hundred acres. You know how much +I admire Greenwood and Mount Auburn. Well, I still prefer them to this +Golgotha. The walks are some of them fine, but the tombs are too thick. +There is no regularity. It looks as though there had been a rain storm +of tombs and monuments, and they lie as they fell. This is the very +metropolis of death. Some of the monuments are elegant indeed, but often +their beauties are hidden. The most attractive spot to us was the +resting-place of "the bravest of the brave." Ney yet has no monument. +The tombs of Casimir Perrier, the Countess Demidoff, Abelard and +Héloise, General Macdonald, Lavalette, Gobert, Foy, Molière, Laplace, +and Junot are some that pleased us most, and are exquisite specimens of +art. Many of these tombs have small rooms, with altars and glass doors. +Opposite the altar is a chair, and we saw several mourners in devout +attitude at the shrine of affection. I have heard from a Parisian of +great intelligence, and who has been connected with the city government, +that very nearly, if not quite, thirty millions of dollars have been +spent upon this cemetery. Of course, the expense of sculpture here has +been enormous, as the best talent of Europe has contributed to adorn the +spot, and perpetuate the memory of the departed. + +On leaving this charnel-house of mortality, we drove to the Abattoir de +Popincourt, which is the largest in the city, and occupies six hundred +and forty-five feet by fire hundred and seventy. On entering, we found +four slaughter-houses, each standing alone. Here, too, are sheds for +four thousand sheep, and stables for four hundred oxen. There are also +four melting-houses. We also noticed a large building called the +_Triperie_, for preparing tripe and the feet of animals. The week we +were there the statistics of slaughter were as follows: Eight hundred +and seventy-two oxen, three hundred and fifty-six cows, seven hundred +calves, and two thousand eight hundred and seventy-five sheep. Nothing +of the sort can be kept cleaner than this establishment. The water ran +down every channel, and very little blood could be seen, or effluvia +noticed. When will New York have its _abattoirs_? No city in the world +needs such an auxiliary to health and comfort more than she does. +Perhaps the good people will call for one after a few more visitations +of cholera. There are four other similar establishments in Paris. + +We had a nice ride home round the boulevards, and, stopping at the +consul's office, found a famous budget of letters and papers, and with +great pleasure we addressed ourselves to their contents. I am amused to +see how various are the demands made upon the time and services of a +consul. He needs to have the patience of Job; and if he answers +satisfactorily and authoritatively the questions which I have heard +propounded, he ought to have in his library the acts of every state +legislature in the Union. Marriage, death, removal of deceased +relatives from their places of sepulture, rates of interest, value of +stocks, condition of railroads, and statistics of all sorts have been +topics which I have heard laid before him for advice and opinion. Very +few men, however, possess more general knowledge of the United States +than our consul--Mr. Goodrich--does; and his kindness will lead him to +do all he can to satisfy the querist. + +Yours, as ever, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 30. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Yesterday we went to the Cirque, in the Champs Elysées. It is a very +large building, with sixteen sides, and behind is another spacious one +for the horses. The intention of the builder was to represent a Moorish +hall; and the pillars of iron are, with the panellings of the walls, +gilt and frescoed. The roof is very elegant, and the largest chandelier +in Paris is in the centre, blazing with I cannot tell you how many gas +lights. The circus will accommodate about six or seven thousand people, +and when we were there it was very nearly full. We paid two francs each, +and had the best seats. The performances were very good, and some quite +beyond any thing I had before seen. There was one feat that was really +great. They placed planks upon supporters, from the centre of the circus +up to the edge of the gallery, making an angle of about fifty feet. +Well, Charley, a fellow walked in with a ball, about three quarters of a +yard in diameter, and on this ball he trotted about on the ground for +perhaps two minutes; then he marches it to the foot of this plank, still +standing on it, and up he goes,--yes, he totes and coaxes the ball under +his feet, up, up,--till at last he stands on it on the gallery; and +then, did not the place ring again with applause? But then it is not +over; for down he comes the selfsame way--and that is the tug of war; +but he did it. This he did _backwards_, also, each way. I never saw any +thing before that would equal this, and I want to see him do it again +before we leave Paris. The horsemanship was very good. But there was one +fellow who threw himself into the very oddest attitudes you can fancy. +He looked, as he moved about on the earth, like any thing but a human. +We were all much amused with the audience. Entire families were there. +You could see parties coming in where there was no mistake about +grandfather and grandmother, father, mother, and all the children. It +seems that all classes here have a taste for amusement, and pursue it +with much earnestness. The audience behaved very well--every thing was +quiet. I noticed a great many well-dressed women who carried round +crickets to the ladies, for their feet, and for this they got a few +sous. + +As we returned, we found, in the grounds through which we walked, scores +of establishments for juvenile amusement--stalls where there are +exhibitions of moving figures, and at which you may shoot with bow and +arrow by paying a small price. Not far from the Cirque we met with an +out-door concert, in a very tasty garden--the performers all occupying a +fine orchestra. The audience were seated at tables in the garden, taking +ice cream, lemonade, coffee, &c. Now and then one of the singers would +pass round and take up a collection. + +This day we went to the Hippodrome, which is a very large enclosure, +nearly opposite the Triumphal Arch. This is no less than three hundred +and eighty feet in diameter, and will seat all of ten thousand persons, +who are under shelter, but the course-ground is open to the heavens. +This place is open from three to five during the warm weather, and is +under the same management as the Cirque. Our great object in coming was +to see the ball feat again, and also the skirmishes of some twenty +Arabs, who are here exhibiting their tactics. I never saw a more +reckless, savage-looking set of fellows than they were. Only one looked +like a venerable Arab--he did look patriarchal. They had several sham +attacks, and rode about shooting helter skelter, looking as if they +would enjoy the real thing much better. These fellows are said to be +some of the Algerine captives brought over by the French. Our friend Mr. +Hodgson, who lived so long in Turkey, and speaks Arabic, talked with +them, much to their surprise. + +We have determined to leave Paris this week, and commence our journey +through Belgium, Holland, go up the Rhine, and take Switzerland on our +return to Paris--and perhaps we may leave to-morrow. I ought not to omit +saying that we have had a very pleasant Sunday in our own parlor here. +We did not feel much like going to the French church that morning; and +the doctor invited the Rev. Dr. Murray, Dr. Chetwood, Rev. Mr. Darling, +Judge Darling, Rev. Mr. Hovey, Mr. King, and some other friends to join +us, and have a religious meeting. It was a very interesting one, too. +Dr. Murray spoke about the state of France, the need the French had of +our Sunday, and how they could not be a free and happy people, and get +along without soldiers, till they had it. All the ministers took part; +and I shall not very soon forget that day; and then I think we all +thought a good deal about home, as each minister talked and prayed for +our families. + +Our next letters will, I suppose, be from Brussels. + + +Yours, &c., + +GEORGE. + + + + +Letter 31. + + +BRUSSELS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +The fine weather, and the advantage of having pleasant company, has +induced us to leave Paris and pursue our journey, leaving many things to +see in the great metropolis when we return. I forgot to tell you that in +Paris I had the pleasure to meet an English clergyman, a relative of +mine, who was there passing the honey-moon. This gentleman and his lady +joined our party; and we are now to go together as far as Antwerp, +certainly. We took the rail from Paris direct to Brussels,--a distance +of two hundred and thirty miles,--and passed through Amiens, Arras, +Douai, Valenciennes, Quievrain, St. Jemappes,--here King Louis Philippe, +with General Dumourier, in 1792, gained a battle over an Austrian army, +and so gained Belgium to France, little thinking that his son-in-law +would be its king,--Mons, Bruin le Compte, Halle, and so to Brussels. At +Quievrain we found the custom-house of Belgium, and the little river, +called Aunelle, is the boundary of the republic. Mons is a fine-looking +place, fortified strongly. The region is one entire coal field, and +there are many pits in operation. Ten miles from Mons Marlborough fought +the battle of Malplaquet, in 1709. When we passed, the town was in +great commotion with the trial of Count Bocarmé and his wife for the +murder of her brother. She was by some means acquitted, but he was +convicted and executed by the guillotine. + +As soon as we entered Belgium, we were struck with the improvement of +the lands. The small towns look remarkably thrifty, and every place +seems to speak of manufactures and industry. + +At Brussels, we put up at the Hotel Bellevue, in the Place Royale. The +situation is good. In a large square, and in front of our hotel, is the +magnificent statue, in bronze, of Godfrey, Duke of Boulogne, the cast of +which we so admired as the Crusader, in the exhibition. In this square +Leopold was inaugurated King of Belgium. + +Every traveller enters Brussels with expectation of pleasure. He has +heard that it is Paris in miniature; and then Byron has thrown around it +his witchery of song. I can see but a dull and dim resemblance to Paris. +Brussels, with its suburbs, which are quite large, has only a population +of one hundred and thirty thousand. The town is very clean, looks cosy, +and has some very beautiful edifices. But you come here full of fancy +about "Belgium's capital," "her beauty and her chivalry," and the +"windowed niche of that high hall," and you see at first only a plain, +good, comfortable town. However, there is quite enough of romance, +after all, in this same place; and when you traverse it thoroughly, you +find enough to call out deep interest; and before you leave it you are +much gratified, and, in all probability, feel desirous to see it again. +I like to be in places that have a history; and this Brussels has. Let +me tell you about this place. It stands on the brow of a high bill, and +the upper and lower towns are different affairs entirely. The summit is +covered with palaces, public buildings, boulevards, parks, &c, and the +lower part is in the valley of the River Senne. Brussels was a city in +709. In 976, the Emperor Otho held his court there; in 1044, it was +fortified and had seven gates; in 1405, a fire destroyed fourteen +hundred houses; and in 1549, it suffered from two earthquakes. But still +it grew and flourished under the dukes of Burgundy, and became famous +for tapestry, lace, and fire-arms. In the days of Charles V., the city +of Brussels was at its zenith. Philip II., his son, and his infamous +general, the Duke of Alva, ravaged this city and vicinage. The people +were fanatical, and the rulers cruel. In 1695, the city was besieged, +and four thousand houses destroyed by the bombardment. In 1794, Belgium +was annexed to France. After the battle of Waterloo, the Prince of +Orange was proclaimed sovereign of Belgium. In 1830, the revolution +displaced the Orange dynasty, and Belgium broke off from Holland; and +in 1831, the people chose Leopold for their king. The first thing I +wanted to see was the Hotel de Villa, which, many years ago, pleased me +exceedingly; and I think all our party have been delighted with it. This +is the noblest civil building in Belgium; it stands in a fine square, +and is a glorious specimen of the Lombardy Gothic school. The spire is +of open fretwork, and the sun shines through it. It has long been +esteemed as one of the most precious works of architecture in Europe. +The extreme height is three hundred and sixty-four feet, and it was +erected in 1444. On the spire is a gilt statue of St. Michael, seventeen +feet high, which turns with the wind. In front of this town hall Counts +Egmont and Horn were executed, under the eye of Alva; but they were +nobly avenged by William of Orange. At the head of a very steep and +narrow street stands a most imposing structure. It is the Cathedral +Church of St. Gudule. The foundation was laid in 1010. The front view is +very much like that of Notre Dame, at Paris. This church is occasionally +called St. Michael's in old writers, as it had a double consecration to +the archangel and Gudule. The interior of this cathedral is very +impressive, although the architecture is simple. The pillars supporting +the roof are massive, and must receive the admiration of all spectators. +There are brackets attached to them, on which stand finely-executed +figures of the Savior, the Virgin Mary, and the Apostles, executed by +the following renowned sculptors: Vandelyn, Quellyn, Tobias, and +Duquesnoy. The pulpit is regarded as the finest in Europe, and is the +most elaborate composition of sculpture in wood that is extant. It is +the work of the great Verbruggen, and was originally executed for a +Jesuit society at Louvain, in 1699. The art is exquisite, and far +superior to the taste which is exhibited. The pulpit represents the +expulsion of Adam and Eve from paradise by the angel. Death is seen in +pursuit of the guilty fugitives; and on the extreme summit is the Virgin +Mary, bruising the serpent's head with a cross. On the steps and +balusters are various beasts and birds; the owl, ape, and peacock are +conspicuous. We found preparations for a great church holiday, to be +observed the next day; and the Virgin Mary was gayly decked out in +embroidery, lace, and jewelry. + +A monument to Count Merode, in a chapel, is a most exquisite production, +and was executed by Geefs. Here Charles V., in 1616, held a chapter of +the Golden Fleece. The restoration of this beautiful church has been +carefully attended to lately, and the new windows of painted glass are +very fine; but some of the old windows, by Weyde, are grand indeed. + +In this church the famous sacramental wafers are placed away as relics +of inestimable value. Perhaps you recollect the story of the Jews who +purloined them, and profanely stuck the consecrated bread with knives; +when, lo, a miracle! blood came from the incision, and the unbelievers +were smitten down. Of course, they were taken, and tormented, and burnt. +This was at the close of the fourteenth century. The great celebration +of this Popish imposition of a miracle is kept up in July every year. + +All one side of this noble building is a set of mean, low, one and +two-story shanties, which deface the appearance of the venerable pile. + +While in the church, we saw vast numbers of boys and girls, who had come +to make their confession and prepare for their first communion, to take +place next day. We often saw in the streets of Paris and Brussels girls +dressed in white, with wreaths of flowers, and boys, with dresses that +looked as if they were bound to a wedding; these were young people going +to communion. The poor children in this church looked as funny on the +occasion, sitting and chatting, waiting for their turn to confess, as +the priest looked tired and indifferent. + +We spent much of our leisure time walking in the noble park and gardens. +O, when shall we have in America such care taken of our few green spots, +in our great cities, as is here displayed? No lady can be more chary of +the order of her drawing-room than are the authorities at Brussels of +these beautiful promenades. Then, too, here are avenues of trees that +make you in love with the city as you enter it. I do wish all our towns +would raise committees of public-spirited men, who should undertake, by +voluntary contributions, or town action, to plant the roadsides that +form the entrances to these places. I was delighted, some months ago, to +hear that a few gentlemen at Haverhill, in Massachusetts, had banded +together for this purpose. Charley, if you live to take an active share +in the business of life, try and do something for the place you live in +that shall appear after you have gone; make the spot of your residence +better, because you have once lived in it. We are too selfish; we do not +fulfil our duty to those who are to come after us; we do not, even in +the matters of this present state, live up to the great law of our +being--"No man liveth to himself." + +Leopold's Palace is exceedingly plain and unpretending for a royal +residence. It was originally composed of two wings, through which a +street ran its course; but they are now united by a central building, +with a handsome portico, having for its support six Corinthian pillars. +The edifice is about three hundred and ninety feet in length; and, while +the front is on the Park, the rear opens on an extensive garden. At the +opposite side of the Park is the Chamber of Representatives. In the +Park, and near to the Palace, is the prettiest glen and bit of miniature +wood I know of. + +We found our accomplished representative, the Hon. Mr. Bayard, kind and +attentive. He lives in a charming part of the city; and his position +must be a pleasant one, having good society in the place, and near to +Paris. + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 32. + + +BRUSSELS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +I like this city very much--it is so clean. The buildings in the upper +part of the town are new, and in pleasant contrast to the lower portion, +which looks so very old. I think, from walking about a great deal, that +there must be many English people here; for they carry their country in +their dress and manner. We spent a morning at the various shops, and +principally at the lace and print stores. We purchased some very +beautiful engravings, lithographs, and illustrated works, which will +remind us of our pleasant days in Brussels, and which I hope may amuse +our friends. The lacework executed here is uncommonly rich, and, you +know, is very famous; but, I am sorry to say, also very expensive. A +person may soon get rid of large amounts of money here. We made some +purchases for the ladies at home; but no doubt, if they had been with +us, the bills would have been heavier than they were. + +The way we manage for getting money while we are travelling is by a +circular letter from Baring & Brothers. On this we are introduced to +houses in the great cities through which our route lies, and the letter +states our credit at London; then from these houses we obtain what we +need, and have each house indorse the amount; so that, as we go from +place to place, our financial position in London still appears. In +Brussels we found the banker, or, at least, his agent,--for whether the +banker or his clerk we did not know,--a perfect specimen of vulgarity +and rudeness. He was the most uncivil fellow that we have yet seen in +Europe. His most pleasant words were grunts, and his motions and +attitudes were almost threats. He looked like a Jew, but he acted like a +wild Arab; and his manoeuvres would have been a godsend to the comic Dr. +Valentine, if he had witnessed their display. His gray hairs did not +command respect; and what made his rudeness so hard to bear, was the +fact that nothing occurred to call it out. We probably met him at an +unhappy moment. + +The Museum is in the old palace of the Spanish governors of the Low +Countries, and long before their day it was the ducal residence of the +Brabants. The building was begun in 1346, and completed in 1502. + +The pictures of Europe are one of my great objects of interest, and here +we begin to find them. We have left the London and Paris collections for +examination as we return. From the catalogue, we found there were about +six hundred pictures here, and some statuary. The chief attraction of +this gallery is found in the few early Flemish paintings which it +boasts. I think a Gerard Dow will long be remembered by me. It is an +interior, and the effect of the light in the room is admirable. Many of +the paintings are styled Gothic; that means they were painted previous +to the time of Van Eyck. An interior of the Antwerp Cathedral, by Neefs, +is very fine; and I was much pleased with some large pictures by +Philippe Champagne, some' of whose portraits I have seen in New York. +Here are four pictures by Paul Veronese. No. 285 is the Marriage of +Cana. I think I never saw a picture in which I was so impressed with the +magnificence of the coloring. The table is richly spread, and the light +appears on it, coming down the columns; the rich colors of the fruits +contrasting strongly with the white table and gay dress of one of the +figures. The management of light, by introducing various colors in the +dresses, is wonderful, and the blue sky produces the happiest effect. I +never before understood how much a picture depended on the arrangement +of color. The drapery of this composition struck me greatly; and +although I know little of great paintings, yet I do know what I like, +and this picture, as a whole, seems to me wonderfully fine. + +In 1695, when this town was bombarded by the French, fourteen churches +were destroyed, some of which contained the best pictures of Rubens, +Vandyke, and other great painters of that century. I observed here a +good portrait of Henrietta, queen of Charles I., who seems to have been +a favorite with painters. I have seen a score of her faces by Vandyke at +Windsor, Paris, and elsewhere. This was by Mignard. All make her very +beautiful. + +The Adoration of the Magi, by Van Eyck, the inventor of oil painting, is +curious; and a Descent from the Cross, by Hemling, who flourished about +1450, interested me. Amongst the pictures by unknown masters I saw some +good ones. I thought the portraits in this class very spirited. One of +Bloody Mary was quite a picture. + +In this building, too, the doctor found a treat in the great Burgundy +Library, where are nearly twenty thousand MSS., some of which are the +most richly-illuminated vellums that are known. Some of the miniatures +of the early fathers and saints are of exquisite beauty. This precious +collection has twice, I learn, been stolen by the French, as were also +the best pictures. The library consists of about two hundred thousand +volumes. I saw some glorious specimens of Russian malachite. + +You would, I am sure, Charley, hardly forgive me if I had had so little +of your love of the curious as to go away from Brussels without a look +at the world-renowned fountain--the _Manekin._ One day, when upon a +tramp, we inquired it out. The dirty dog is a little bronze figure, made +by the famous Duquesnoy in 1648. It stands at the corner of the Rue du +Chêne and the Rue de l'Etuve. He still maintains his ground; and there +seems no danger of his losing his occupation. + +The Botanical Garden lies on the side of the hill leading from the city +towards Antwerp, and is apparently kept in fine order. It is about six +hundred and fifty yards long, and I should think nearly two hundred +wide. + +To-morrow we are to spend at Waterloo; and George is well nigh +distracted. We have heard very little from him, since we reached +Brussels, but about Napoleon, Wellington, Ney, and Grouchy. The +last-named marshal finds no favor at his hands, as he regards him as a +traitor to the emperor at the critical moment. One thing is certain; he +knows more about the battle than most persons, and will feel quite at +home when he once makes out his stand-point. We all anticipate his +transports with interest. We are to start early; so good-night. + +Yours, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 33. + + +BRUSSELS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +I am thoroughly tired out with a day at Waterloo; and, though I should +be glad to retire at an early hour, yet, as to-morrow's mail takes all +letters for the next steamer, we are all hard at the duty and pleasure +of correspondence with our friends. I shall give you but a hurried +account of our visit to the great battle field of Europe. We were all up +early in the morning, and, after an excellent breakfast, we engaged a +carriage and pair of horses for the day. The distance is about twelve +miles. After riding about two miles, we found the road touched the +Forest of Soignies, so well known in consequence of Byron's description +of the march of the army from Brussels to Waterloo. On the way we met +several guides, who commended their services to our notice, backed up by +testimonials of former travellers. We selected Pirson, and he took his +place beside the driver, and we arrived in two hour at the village. +Passing by what is called a museum, we addressed ourselves at once to a +survey of the field. There are no signs of the past, excepting in +monuments and houses that are famous for their being occupied by the +hostile parties during the battle. We turned our attention first to the +Château of Hougomont, because, from our knowledge of the transactions of +the great day, we regarded it as the grand point of attraction, and the +central one for our observations. This farm is an old-looking affair, +with out-buildings--a small chapel, twelve or fifteen feet long, and the +garden and orchard, having a strong stone wall around them. This was the +strong point of the British army; and if Napoleon could have gained it, +he would have turned the flank of the enemy. To this he directed all his +power, and the marks of the conflict are yet very apparent. All day the +attack was made, upon the farm by thousands, under the command of Jerome +Bonaparte. The wall was pierced with loopholes, and through these the +English Coldstream Guards kept up a most destructive fire upon the +French troops. The exterior of the wall still shows what a terrific +onset was made. We went into the house, obtained some refreshment, +bought some relics, and, among other things, a neat brass crucifix, +which hung against the wall. We then, went to look at the farms La Belle +Alliance and La Haye Sainte--the famous mound where the dead were +interred, and which is surmounted by the Belgic lion. This is an immense +work, two hundred feet high; and from the summit we saw the entire +field. Of course, we all had our feelings excited at standing on a spot +where the two greatest soldiers of Europe measured swords, and had a +continent for spectators of the conflict. + +When the French army marched through Waterloo, on their way to Antwerp, +in 1831, they looked savagely at the Belgian monument, and one man fired +his musket at the lion, and the mark is still visible upon his chin. + +We were much gratified at the farm-house of Hougomont; and the hour we +spent in its orchard and gardens will long be remembered by us all. I +have read an account of the attack upon the house, which says, "The +Belgian yeoman's garden wall was the safeguard of Europe, whose +destinies hung upon the possession of this house." The garden wall is +covered on the inside with ivy; and here we secured several roots of the +plant, and, having bought a basket at the farm-house, we planted them in +earth taken from beside the grave of a British officer, who fell in the +orchard; his tombstone bears the name of J.L. Blackman. These plants +will give us trouble to carry; but Dr. Choules has determined upon +carrying them home for Mr. Hall, whose stone house needs ivy on the +walls, and he intends obtaining roots from various places of interest in +Europe, to serve as mementoes of other lands. + +The church is a small affair, but is full of the testimonies of love and +affection from fathers, mothers, brothers, sisters, wives, children, and +friends, to those who fell in the bloody conflict. + +We were annoyed by urchins, who beset our steps, eager to sell us +genuine relics of the field, which are likely to increase in number as +long as there is a demand for them. George, of course, was in his +element, and he did little but plant the different sites in his memory, +for the purpose of comparing notes, by and by, with Gleig, Headley, &c., +&c. + +I do not attempt to give you any thing like a description of the place, +or an account of the battle, as you have books which are devoted to +these points. + +It is a circumstance worthy of notice that, in 1705, the Duke of +Marlborough came very near fighting a battle with the French, on this +ground, but was prevented by the Dutch commissioners who were with him. + +We obtained some good engravings of the buildings that are famous for +their connection with the battle, but they are nothing like as fine as +the folio illustrated volume of colored engravings which we have so +often looked over with interest. I tried to get a copy in London at any +price, and would have given any thing in reason; but the work is out of +print and the market, and can only be gotten at the sale of a collector. + +On returning to Brussels, and enjoying our dinner at a late hour, we +passed the evening in the Arcades, where we saw some beautiful goods +exposed for sale, and again examined some lacework. You will smile at +the idea of pocket handkerchiefs which cost from one hundred to one +thousand dollars each. The embroidery of letters upon lacework is +costly; and we saw single letters which had required a week's work. + +We like this city, and, if time allowed us, should certainly pass a week +here. I should not forget to say that we saw the king in the Park, near +to his palace. He looks like a man of fifty-five, and, I thought, had a +melancholy air. + +Yours, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 34. + + +ANTWERP. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + + +In company still with our friends from Bristol on a wedding tour, we +took the rail for Antwerp. The arrangements of the railroad in Belgium +seem to me as perfect as they can be made. All is order, civility, and +comfort. On starting for this place, we had the curiosity to inquire as +to the number of passengers, and found thirteen first class, seventy-one +second class, and one hundred and three third class. The road we took +lay through a level country, but cultivated to a great degree; and the +produce was chiefly clover, beans, potatoes, grain, and turnips. On +leaving Brussels, we noticed the fine botanical gardens on our right, +and the Allée Verte, a noble avenue of trees which reaches to Laeken, a +pretty village, dating as far back as the seventh century, and +containing a fine palace, where Leopold frequently resides. Napoleon +once occupied this palace, and here it is said that he planned his +Russian campaign. The park is spacious, and the village has a celebrated +cemetery; and here Madame Malibran reposes. The first stopping-place is +at about six miles from Brussels, at Vilvorde--a very ancient town, +having a population of not quite three thousand. It is known in history +as Filfurdum, and was a place of some consequence in 760. It was here +that Tindal, who was the first translator of the New Testament into +English, suffered martyrdom, in 1536, being burnt as a heretic. The +Testament was a 12mo. edition. It was published in 1526, and probably +was printed at Antwerp, where he then resided. Fifteen hundred copies +were printed, and they were mostly bought up by Bishop Tonstall, and +destroyed. The only copy known to exist is in the library of the Baptist +College at Bristol. This copy belonged to Lord Oxford, and he valued the +acquisition so highly that he settled twenty pounds a year upon the +person who obtained it for him. Both Tindal's assistants in this great +work--Fryth and Roye--suffered martyrdom before his death. I am sorry to +find, by history, that Sir Thomas More employed one Phillips to go over +to Antwerp and decoy Tindal into the hands of the emperor. The last +words of the martyr were, "Lord! open the King of England's eyes." Sir +Thomas More was a bitter persecutor, and he was "recompensed in his own +ways." Not far from Vilvorde are the remains of the chateau of Rubens; +and in the same vicinity is the house where Teniers is said to have +lived. Mechlin, or Malines, is a fine-looking town, with twenty-five +thousand inhabitants, and it is spelt by early writers ways without +number. The railroad just touches on its skirts, and, of course, we +could only look at it. Its cathedral church loomed up; and we longed to +see its interior, where Vandyke's greatest picture--the Crucifixion--is +found in the altar. The tower shows well at a distance. The other +churches have some pictures of great merit, by Rubens. After passing +Mechlin, we saw at our right a large town, lying, perhaps, two miles +off, and then a still smaller one to the left, and a fine old castle, +which looked in good preservation. The road led us through some fine +country residences; and, just before entering Antwerp, we passed +Berchem, a sweet little village. And I would not omit to say that the +small place called Vieux Dieu, before we came to Berchem, is famous for +being one of the last places where heathenism retained its hold in this +port of Europe, and here was formerly an idol. + +Antwerp--or, as the French write it, Anvers--is a noble city on the +River Scheldt, and is about twenty-seven miles from Brussels. The +population is rather more than eighty thousand. The city is laid out in +the shape of a bow, and the river forms the string. The river here is +one hundred and ninety yards wide. The tide rises about fifteen feet. +This place is of very ancient origin, and its legends are mixed up with +the fabulous. Early in the sixteenth century it was an important town. +It was fortified, and became one of the chief places of trade for the +north of Europe. In 1520, the population was over two hundred thousand. +Five hundred vessels daily came into and left the port, and two thousand +others were always lying in the river and basins of the port. The death +blow to this place was the treaty of Munster, which stipulated that +every vessel entering the Scheldt should discharge her cargo in Holland, +so that it had to be conveyed to Antwerp by land. The abolition of the +Spanish power was severely felt at Antwerp. You know, I suppose, that +this is regarded as one of the strongest fortifications in Europe, and +has been the scene of repeated sieges. The last and most celebrated one +was in 1832, when it was captured by the French, after a brave defence +of two months. + +You cannot easily fancy what a charming old city this is; but I shall +try to give you some account of it and our employments here. We put up +at the Hotel St. Antoine, in the Place Verte, nearly opposite the +cathedral, and it certainly is one of the best houses we have seen any +where. The court yard is spacious, and has fine orange-trees around it. +Our rooms are very elegant, and on the first floor. The coffee-room is +admirably attended, and the _table d'hôte_ is the best we have yet set +down to. A large part of our anticipated pleasure arose from the fact +that here are the great works of Rubens; and in the city of Rubens, +Vandyke, Teniers, Jordaens, and Quentin Matsys, we felt that we could +not be disappointed. In the Place Verte we find a colossal statue of +Rubens by Geefs; and passing on a few steps, at the corner we come to +the Cathedral of Notre Dame, which is so celebrated all over Europe as +one of the grandest specimens of the Gothic order of architecture. There +is much dispute as to the exact date of this church, but the evidence is +in favor of 1422, and it is known to have been finished in 1518. This +church is four hundred and sixty-six feet high, five hundred feet long, +and two hundred and fifty wide. The nave is thought to be the most +superb in Europe; and the side naves are double, forming two hundred and +thirty arches, supported by one hundred and twenty-five magnificent +pillars, and some of these are twenty-seven feet in circumference. Here +Philip II., in 1555, held a chapter of the Golden Fleece, at which +nineteen knights and nine sovereign princes were present. In 1559, Paul +IV. made this church a cathedral; but, in 1812, Pius VII. issued a bull +by which it was made dependent on the diocese of Malines. The effect of +the evening sun upon the painted windows is the production of a glory +which no pen can describe. Charles V. was once an actor here, for he +stood godfather at the baptism of the great bell. The pulpit is carved +work, and done by Verbruggen. It represents the four quarters of the +world, and, though elaborate, is not as beautiful as the one in St. +Gudule, at Brussels. The glory of the church is the "breathing scroll" +of Rubens, so often seen upon the walls of its solemn aisles. Here is +Rubens's great picture,--the Descent from the Cross. To this picture +pilgrimages have been made by all the lovers of art from other lands, +and all concede the grandeur of idea and the simplicity of the style. +There is quite a story about this picture, in which Rubens and the +crossbow-men of Antwerp both figure, but which I have no time to tell +you at present. Nearly opposite is the Elevation of the Cross. The +Savior's face and figure are not to be forgotten by any one who +carefully gazes on this canvas. Both these pictures were carried off by +the French, and also the Assumption of the Virgin, which is the high +altar-piece, and were restored by the allied sovereigns in 1815. This +last-named picture is said to have been executed in sixteen days, and +his pay was one hundred florins a day. I like it exceedingly; and _the_ +figure of the picture is more spiritual than any other I have seen of +the Virgin. Its date is 1642. I advise you to read Sir Joshua Reynolds's +Lectures, where you will find a critical description of these immortal +pictures. + +The steeple or tower is regarded as unrivalled, and is one of the +highest in the world. It is four hundred and sixty-six feet high; and +from the top we could see Brussels, Ghent, Malines, Louvain, and +Flushing, and the course of the Scheldt lies beautifully marked out. I +hardly dare tell you how many bells there are. Our valet said +ninety-nine; one local book of facts says eighty-eight; but I suppose +there are eighty or ninety; and every fifteen minutes they do chime the +sweetest music: Charles V. wished the exquisite tower could be kept from +harm in a glass case. The tracery of this tower is like delicate +lacework, and no one can imagine half its beauty. After we came down, we +examined, at the base, the epitaph of Quentin Matsys, once a +black-smith, and then, under the force of the tender passion, he became +a painter. The iron work over the pump and well, outside the church, is +his handiwork. + +All round the cathedral are the finest old gabled houses I ever saw, +Charley. I never tire in looking at them. They were the great houses of +the time when the Duke of Alva made Antwerp the scene of his cruel +despotism, and when the Inquisition carried death and misery into men's +families. The oppressions of the Spaniards in this city sent many of the +best manufacturers from the Low Countries to England; and Queen +Elizabeth received them gladly. + +Yours, &c., + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 35. + + +ANTWERP. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +I believe the lads have told you what they have seen in Belgium; and as +they are just now busily employed, I shall endeavor to tell you our +doings and enjoyments for the last day in this noble old city. We have +been to see St. James's Church, where the great attraction is the tomb +of Rubens. The altar is exquisitely fine, and was the work of Duquesnoy. +Rubens brought it from Italy. Over the tomb is the famous Holy Family, +in which Rubens has introduced himself as St. George, his father as +Jerome, his wives as Martha and Magdalene, his grandfather as old Time, +and his son as the Angel. This wonderful creation of art was carried off +by Napoleon to the Louvre, but was restored to the church in 1815. From +hence we repaired to St. Paul's Church. It was built in 1679. It has a +noble appearance, and retains its cloisters. In this building we noticed +the Flagellation, by Rubens; Jesus bearing the Cross, by Vandyke; the +Crucifixion and Resurrection, by Jordaens; and the Adoration of the +Shepherds, by Rubens. As we left the church, we visited the Calvary, +which is at the entrance, or, rather, off from it, at the right. It is +meant to represent the place of Christ's death. There are several +statues of prophets and apostles, and a sort of grotto. At the end is +Mount Calvary, and the summit is the scene of the Savior's crucifixion. +Beneath is the tomb, the body, and the stone rolled away; and at the +left are bars and flames, and poor creatures in purgatorial fires. A +more wretched-looking burlesque was never placed in the vicinage of art +and the productions of genius. Popery employs such trickery unblushingly +in Papal countries, but withholds their exhibition from the common sense +of England and America, waiting till our education shall fit us for the +simple, unalloyed system of delusion. + +We find the number of priests in Belgium much greater than in France. We +see them in the cars, at the stations, and in every street. At one +station, on our way to Antwerp, we saw a most strangely-dressed man. He +wore a cloak, and the cape formed a sort of hat. His head was shaved, +and his feet were bare. We learnt that he was a monk of La Trappe. He +was as noble a looking man as I have seen in Europe. + +We devoted the morning to the Museum, which is so famous for containing +the richest productions of Rubens, Vandyke, Jordaens, and a host of +other great Flemish artists. As we entered, we saw, with interest, the +chair of Rubens, which he used in his studio. It bears his name, and the +date of 1638. It is in a glass case. Rubens has sixteen pictures here, +of high character, and Vandyke several. We were all delighted with No. +215--a Dead Christ on a stone table, and the Virgin mourning at his +side. No. 212 is a wonderful composition--Christ crucified between the +Thieves. The look of the dying penitent at his Savior is not to be +forgotten. The Magdalene of this picture is a creation of beauty indeed. +I have purchased a fine engraving of this picture, and several others by +Rubens, and I hope, by looking at them long, to retain the impression I +had made on my mind as I gazed upon the originals. No. 221--the +Trinity--is a profane and ungracious representation of a Dead Christ in +the arms of a stern old man, who is intended for the Father. This +picture is wonderfully fine, as regards the foreshortening of the dead +body; and I never saw such an exhibition in this respect. No. 218--- +Christ showing his Wounds to Thomas--is fine; but the picture has +suffered from damp. + +Quentin Matsys has several of his productions here, and we looked with +interest at a fine Sir Thomas More, by Holbein; the Flight into Egypt, +by Memling; Mater Dolorosa, by Albert Durer; and many interiors, by +Flemish artists. I was greatly pleased with No. 382--the Death of +Rubens, by Van Brée, who died in 1839. This is large, and I think a most +effective picture. The two sons, the priest, the wife fainting, and the +two scribes, are admirably disposed; and the open window, through which +the cathedral spire is seen, seems to me exceedingly clever; but I fancy +I admired it more than artists have done. On leaving this noble +collection, we stopped at St. Andrew's Church to see a portrait of Mary, +Queen of Scots, over a monument to the two Ladies Curl, one of whom +waited on her at her execution at Fotheringay Castle. After dinner we +sallied out to see the Exchange, or Bourse, and from which the first +London one was copied. Of course, this gave it an interest to us, as we +could fancy we saw the royal building in which Queen Bess made such a +display, and of which Gresham had so much reason to be proud. It is a +piazza of iron arches and granite pillars, surrounding a square two +hundred feet long by one hundred and sixty wide. It was built in 1531. + +On returning home, we accidentally met with Mr. Vesey, the American +consul. He invited us to his drawing-room, and we had a very pleasant +half hour. But when he found we were to leave next day, he insisted on +taking us to the outskirts and showing us the citadel and +fortifications. In a few minutes he had us in a carriage, and became our +kind and efficient guide till the loss of daylight rendered it useless +to look around. I think we shall never forget the very great attention +and friendship which we all met with from this gentleman; and I was +gratified to hear him say that here, in Europe, nothing seemed to +interest him in relation to mere party strife at home; while the honor +and union of the country seemed to him all and every thing. Mr. Vesey +has a good library and some fine paintings. He is a man of taste, and +marked by energy of character; and is just such a representative of his +country as she needs at such points as Antwerp and other large cities. + +Yours truly, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 36. + + +HAGUE. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +I assure you we felt sorry to leave Antwerp; it is such a thoroughly +fine old place, has so much of old Spanish history still bound up with +its present aspect, and is so decidedly foreign in its appearance, +language, &c. I have only time left to say a word about the docks of +Antwerp, which were a favorite project of Napoleon Bonaparte. They were +constructed at an enormous outlay; and the emperor expected to make this +place the great rival of London. At the peace of 1814, the dock yards +were demolished; but the great basins still exist, and are used for +purposes of commerce. They are useful in winter, to preserve vessels +from the ice which floats in the Scheldt. + +It was a lovely morning when, having parted with our English friends, +who proceeded to Bruges, we entered on board an iron steamer for a +passage of about eight hours to Rotterdam. The boat was neat and clean, +though small, and the cabin was adorned with baskets and pots of flowers +of various kinds. The view of the city and its fortifications was fine, +as the boat receded from the shore. On our way we passed Dort, one of +the finest towns of Holland, and from appearances, I think, one of much +trade. Its population is twenty thousand. Here, in 1618, was held the +famous Synod of Dort, the great labor of which was to settle the claims +of the rival systems of Calvin and Arminius. At this synod, Bishop Hall +was a delegate from the English church; and he, good man, never dreamed +of denying the validity of the ordination of his brethren in that +council. We felt interested, as we sailed along this town, in +remembering that here, in 1421, seventy-two villages and more than one +hundred thousand persons were drowned by the incursion of water from the +dike. The river stretches far away, and looks much like a lake. + +If any one looks at the face of the country, he will at once understand +why these regions have been termed the Low Countries. We passed, as you +may see on the map, Gravendeel, Willeinstadt, and the far-famed +fortress of Bergen op Zoom, which is one of the strongest places in +Holland. You know that Antwerp stood a long siege in 1831, when it +suffered severely; and, as we passed Fort St. Laurent, we were pointed +out the spot where a most gallant occurrence happened at that time. A +gun boat, belonging to Holland, got on shore, and the Belgians hastened +to capture her, when her captain, a young man named Van Speyk, rushed +into the magazine, put his cigar upon an open keg of powder, and, in the +explosion, perished, with twenty-eight of his crew out of thirty-one. He +was an orphan, who had been educated at Amsterdam. He has a fine +monument next to Admiral De Ruyter's, and a fine ship of the Dutch navy +bears his name. On board our boat we found two young gentlemen, of about +fifteen or sixteen, belonging to Rotterdam, who were going home for +vacation.. They are pupils at a boarding school in Brussels. They spoke +English very well, and gave us a great deal of pleasing information. The +dinner on the boat was very excellent. On reaching Rotterdam, we merely +rode through it to take the cars for the Hague. It is a fine-looking +town, has seventy-five thousand inhabitants, and some noble East +Indiamen were lying at the wharves. Many of the houses were like those +at Antwerp, and told a Spanish origin. I here noticed looking-glasses +at the windows, so that any one in the parlor can see the reflection up +and down the streets. I was glad to be able to see the bronze statue of +Erasmus, who was born here in 1467. We were delayed by the absence of +the authorities to sign our passports, but were in time to reach the +ears, and then started for the Hague, which is thirteen miles from +Rotterdam; and we were forty minutes on the way. The road is excellent. +We passed through Delft, and here we could not fail to admire the +gardens and country-houses. It was dark as we entered the town; and we +took up our quarters at the Doelen, which is a name indicating that +archers have resorted thither. Whoever goes to this house will be sure +to do well. We obtained capital rooms. Early next morning we called on +Mr. George Folsom, our _chargé d'affaires_. This gentleman is an old +friend of mine; and he gave us a most cordial welcome, taking entire +possession of our party for the day. Mr. Folsom resides in very handsome +style upon the Voorhout, the best street of the city, and which, like +every other part of the place, is adorned with noble trees. It seems +strange to call this place a city, it is so thoroughly rural in its +appearance. It hardly shows like a town of sixty-five thousand people on +account of being concealed in shrubbery, cut up by canals, and +overshadowed with forest-trees. + +Very early in the day we were kindly provided with carriages, and taken +to Scheveningen, a village about three miles off. Our road lay through a +fine avenue of trees. This is a great fishing-place, and a great +watering-place. It has a large hotel, which we went to for lunch. It is +the great rendezvous of the fashionable part of society in Germany +during the heat of summer. We could not help drawing a contrast between +Scheveningen and Newport, and not much to the advantage of the Dutch +beach. This spot has some celebrity, as the port whence Charles II. +embarked for England at his restoration. On our way back we saw the +residence of the queen dowager, sister to the Emperor of Russia, and of +whom Mr. Folsom speaks highly, as a very excellent and sensible lady. +Mrs. Folsom and the ladies of our party had visited the queen the day +before. The house looked quite snug, and very unpretending. On +returning, we at once repaired to the Museum, which is supposed to be, +in many respects, the finest in Europe. Here, too, is the famous picture +gallery, in which are the best productions of the Flemish and Dutch +schools. You are aware that Holland has had extensive trade with China +and Japan, through her colonies; hence the richness of this museum, +which, so far as Japan is concerned, is unrivalled. I have a catalogue +of this wonderful collection, and to that I must refer you; for, as to +description of what I saw, it would be impossible to tell you a +hundredth part. The Oriental curiosities are very rich and fine. A plan +of Jeddo, the capital of Japan, is very curious--made by natives. The +historical treasures are rich and numerous. Here we saw the armor of De +Ruyter, and that of Van Tromp, well scored with bullets; the sword of +Van Speyk; a part of Czar Peter's bed; the dress of William of Orange +when he was murdered at Delft; the pistol and bullets by which he fell, +&c., &c. We all expected much pleasure from the gallery of paintings, +and I believe we experienced no disappointment; and how could we, with +such treasures of art and genius? Here we noticed with most interest +Rembrandt's Surgeon and Pupils dissecting a dead Body. This is No. 127. +The body is admirable, and the legs are thrown into shadow. The +portraits are lifelike. The portraits of Rembrandt's wives are fine +specimens of coloring. No. 123 is the world-renowned Bull, by Paul +Potter. The glory of this work is its minute adherence to nature. The +leaves and plants, and every appearance of vegetation, impresses the +spectator with the idea of reality. This was carried off to the Louvre, +although the Dutch offered twenty thousand pounds sterling to redeem it. +I liked the pictures of De Ruyter and Van Tromp; but the treat of all to +me was the show of small Dutch pictures, by Gerard Dow, thirty-five in +number; a Battle Field and Hay Cart, by Wouvermans, and many others from +his studio; Flight into Egypt, by Vanderwerp; Fruits and Flowers, by +Breughels; Interiors of Cottages, by A.V. Ostades; a Kitchen, by +Teniers; and a very large Hunting-piece by Snyders, whom I greatly +admire. As to portraits, they are in any number, and some are very fine. +One of Laurence Coster, by Durer, is curious. + +We went to see the late King's Palace, and here we found only the relics +of the splendid gallery which was once to be seen. An auction had +recently disposed of more than half the paintings. The late monarch was +a man of taste, but had sadly involved himself in its gratification. +Many of the paintings here are exceedingly fine, and will be disposed of +in a public sale next October. After leaving this palace, we went with +Mr. Folsom to see the Brimenhoff. This is the place where the Dutch +parliament meets. We went into the second chamber and heard the debates, +which were not very edifying. The appearance of the members was very +much like that of a New England assembly of legislators. + +The fine Gothic Hall here is said to be the oldest building in the city. +It was on a scaffolding in front of it that Barneveldt, the grand +pensionary of Holland, was beheaded, in 1618, at the age of seventy-two. +We also saw the gateway of the tower in which Cornelius De Witt was +confined, in 1672, on the ridiculous charge of conspiracy against the +Prince of Orange. The populace feared his acquittal, and they by a +manoeuvre induced his brother John De Witt, the grand pensionary, to +visit him in prison. They then broke in, dragged them forth, and tore +them to pieces under the gateway. We went to look at De Witt's +residence, which is plain and unpretending. + +I do wish you could have been with us in our ride through the Bosch, a +fine park of forest-trees near to the town. The forest never looked more +pleasant to me than here. May is a sweet month, and especially when, +with all her verdant beauty, she is just about to rush into the arms of +June. We all talked of you in the charming drive, and Mr. Folsom made +kind inquiries after you. On reaching home, we went with our kind guide +to see the house which was occupied by John Adams when he was at this +court negotiating a treaty with Holland in aid of our independence. + +We are to spend to-morrow and next day at Harlem, on our way to +Amsterdam; and the boys will tell you what we see there. + +Affectionately yours, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 37. + + +AMSTERDAM. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +In order that we might enjoy an opportunity to hear the great organ at +Harlem to advantage, Mr. Folsom advised us to spend a Sabbath day there, +which we did, in company with his family. We took the rail to Leyden, +ten miles. Here we saw the Dunes, or Sand Hills, which guard the Dutch +coast, and which are from one to four miles in width, and are from +thirty to fifty feet high. These immense piles would soon be scattered +by the strong winds if they were not regularly sown with reed grass, the +roots of which often spread from twenty to thirty feet, binding the +banks, and the decayed vegetation furnishing good soil for potatoes. The +existence of Holland and its population is only insured by perpetual +strife maintained against the sea and winds of heaven. We could not look +at Leyden and forget that the Pilgrim Fathers of New England were once +exiles at this place. They called it a "goodly and pleasant city," and +here they spent twelve years; and we looked at the scenery with interest +as we thought of their wanderings, and how much preparation was expended +in establishing the glorious foundations of our own New England. The +city has about forty thousand inhabitants. Its University is still +famous, and the hall of the institution is rich in portraits of the +great and good. The Museum of Natural History is very large, and is +quite curious in Oriental and Egyptian relics. In Japanese curiosities, +the Dutch museums are far more affluent than any others of Europe, as +they maintain almost exclusive traffic with Japan. + +The history of Leyden is very interesting. In 1573-4, this town suffered +an awful siege from the Spaniards for four months, and lost more than +five thousand inhabitants by war and famine. At last the elements +conspired in their favor, and an incursion of the sea destroyed the +Spaniards and brought succor to the Dutch. Rembrandt the painter was +born at Leyden, in a wind mill. By the way, there are literally +thousands of wind mills in this country, and some of them are very +pretty objects. The sails of these mills are immensely large, and I +think I saw some that were quite one hundred feet long. Many of the best +men of England have studied at Leyden; and if you read the lives of +Evelyn and Goldsmith, you will find they were much attached to this +place. Boerhaave, the great physician, was a professor here, and go were +Arminius and his rival Gomarus. Gerard Dow or Douw, Jan Steen, and +Vandervelde, the artists, were born here. Near Leyden the Rhine enters +the sea, by the aid of a canal and sluice gates; and here are great salt +works, carried on by evaporation. From Leyden we took the rail to +Harlem, eighteen miles; and we found the road very good, and the +first-class cars perfectly luxurious. We noticed on our right hand the +Warmond Catholic Seminary for Popish priests, and saw the young men in +large numbers, walking about. The road runs through a sandy tract of +country, and much of it is made land. Approaching Harlem, we found the +cottages and country-houses very numerous and exceedingly pretty; and we +were pointed to the castle of the unfortunate Jacqueline, whose history, +you know, has been so charmingly written by our friend Mr. T.C. Grattan. +We made our home at the Golden Lion, and found the place comfortable and +very thoroughly Dutch. The landlady is a brisk, bustling body, and +speaks English tolerably well. Harlem has about twenty-fire thousand +inhabitants. On Sunday morning we went to the Church of St. Bavon. We +found a large congregation, and they sung most heartily. The dominie had +a cocked hat hanging up behind him in the pulpit; and he was, beyond +doubt, a very eloquent man. The great organ, built in 1738, was long +deemed _the_ organ of Europe, but is now supposed to be excelled at +Friburg. We heard it during service several times, and in a voluntary. +It unquestionably is an instrument of great sweetness as well as power. +It has five thousand pipes. The church is lofty, and looks plain enough +after what we have seen in Antwerp. Of course, we went to see the +statue of Coster, who is said to have been the inventor of printing in +1420-28, twelve years before Guttemberg made his experiments. The Dutch +are strong advocates for their inventor; but I think evidence in favor +of metal type lies with the man of Mayence. + +You may be sure that, when we were so fortunate as to be here early in +June, we did not fail to go into the nurseries and gardens, and see the +hyacinths, tulips, narcissuses, anemones, ranunculuses, &c. We went to +the extensive grounds of Mr. Krelage, the first florist of Holland, No. +146 Kleine Houtweg; and here we were greatly delighted. The tulips were +exceedingly fine, and under cover they receive as much attention as if +they were babies. The hyacinths surpassed in beauty and variety any +thing we are accustomed to. I noticed a double blue, called Gloria +Mundi; Van Speyk, L'Importante, same color; Goethe, double yellow; +L'Eclair, crimson; and Emicus, white, which were particularly beautiful. +But we were all, perhaps, most pleased with the extensive beds of +anemones and ranunculuses, which rarely do well in our hot climate, and +here flourish in a humid atmosphere. Certainly they are the prettiest +flowers I ever saw; but they lack perfume. Here we saw them by +thousands. The exquisite order and condition of these large gardens +pleased us much. The young gentleman who kindly devoted three hours to +us spoke English well, and was very courteous and attentive. I have +brought away a catalogue of the flowers, with the prices. The soil of +Harlem is every where a deep sand, and every thing appears to flourish. + +The vicinage of this place is very pleasant; and we rode for two hours +through a noble wood, fringed with sweet villas, and made a visit to a +palace built by the great banker, Hope, of Amsterdam, and which was the +residence of King Louis Bonaparte. It is now a picture gallery, and +contains some good historical pictures, and many fine small ones, of the +best artists of Holland. I think the boys forgot to tell you that, at +the Hague, we found the annual exhibition of paintings by the living +artists of Holland, just opened, and the treat was very great. It is +quite clear that the art is not lost here, and that rare excellence is +still to be found among the Dutch painters. We were all delighted with a +picture of Charles IX. of France, and his surgeon, Ambrose Paré. The +time is just before the Bartholomew massacre; and Catharine is in the +room, plotting with her wretched son. Some of the portraits were +remarkable productions, and evince a power rarely seen in this +department. Some of the interiors of houses and churches were quite in +the style of Ostade, Neefs, and Gerard Dow. A picture of the Virgin, +and Jesus and John, by Schwartze, of Amsterdam, received general praise. +Of this artist I shall have more to say. + +The great Lake of Harlem, which is thirty miles in circumference, is to +be drained; and for several years operations have been in progress to +this end. The immense works employed for this purpose are worthy of +notice. + +After leaving Harlem, and taking leave of our kind friend the minister +at the Hague, with his amiable family, we again entered the cars, and, +after riding twelve miles, reached Amsterdam. The chief feature on the +way was the everlasting wind mill, employed here to grind wheat, &c. We +went to the Hotel Doelen, and found it all that Mr. Folsom had said. +This is a great city, of two hundred and twenty-five thousand +inhabitants. The canals are immense affairs, and the ships and vessels +of all sorts give it a very active appearance. All round the city is a +wide fosse; and there are four great canals inside, with many minor +cuts. Some of these canals are more than one hundred and twenty-five +feet wide, and are edged with very fine houses; and the intercourse of +the city is kept up by some two hundred and fifty bridges. The city is +about eight miles round. Every one seems actively employed. + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 38. + + +AMSTERDAM. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +The next morning after reaching this fine, but queer city, we called on +the American consul, and he gave us a very friendly reception. He is +quite a young man, but seems to be full of energy. At his house we met a +Mr. J. G. Schwartze, a native of Philadelphia, but who came to Holland +very young, and has made this city his residence. He is highly +distinguished as an artist; and we saw a fine production of his at the +exhibition at the Hague. Mr. Schwartze is a charming companion--full of +enthusiasm; and when he found that I was fond of pictures, he at once +volunteered to be our guide to the galleries here; and in all our +movements here our kind friend has been with us. The most imposing +building here is the Stadhuis, or Palace. It was finished in 1655, and +used to be the seat of the town councils. Louis Bonaparte used it as his +residence; and the king occupies it when he comes here. The marble hall +is esteemed one of the noblest rooms in Europe, and is one hundred and +twenty feet long, fifty-seven wide, and nearly one hundred feet high. +From the top of this building you get a capital view of the town, cut up +into artificial islands by the intersection of canals, &c. In this +building is much fine statuary, and a few historical paintings. + +The churches are large, but look barn-like. The organ of the old church +is very rich in its decorations; and here, as at Harlem, men sit in +church with their hats on, if they choose. The clergy wear a short, +black cloak, and deep white ruffs on the neck. The Jews are quite +numerous, and have several synagogues. They live mostly in one part of +the city. I do not think we shall any of us forget our visit to the +picture gallery at Amsterdam. Our attention was directed by Mr. S. to +the best paintings, and the particular merits of the artists were kindly +explained to us. The sight of a great picture is an event; and I think +that the day on which I first saw Rembrandt's Night Watch will long be +regarded by me with pleasurable feelings. It is a company of archers, +who are going out with their captain. The lights and shades are +wonderfully introduced. The City Guards of Amsterdam, by Vanderhelst, is +a large picture, with twenty-five portraits, and is esteemed as the +finest portrait picture in the world. But my favorite here is a small +picture called the Night School, by Gerard Dow. I would cheerfully go a +hundred miles on foot to see such a picture. The management of the +lights upon the interior and figures is beyond any thing I have +imagined. His Hermit and Crucifix is another gem. The picture of +Officers plundered by Peasants, by Wouvermans, and several landscapes of +his, are still in my mind's eye; and several pictures by the two +Ostades, Teniers, and Both are quite sufficient to make me understand +how it is that some men have found such fascination in collecting a +gallery. The best specimens of Jan Steen are in this city, and his Fête +of St. Nicholas would take wonderfully well with our good old +Knickerbockers at home. A Landscape, with cattle and figures, by Albert +Cuyp, is strikingly beautiful; and how I wish you could see a Fat Boy, +the son of a burgomaster, by Bartholomew Helst, dated 1648. Vandyke, +whose portraits have never been equalled, has some of his best in this +museum; and his Burgomaster of Antwerp, Vander Brocht, is as bold a +picture as you could wish to gaze at. + +Hondekoeter's flowers and fruits, and Snyder's game pieces, are among +the best of their kind in the world. Some of the finest things I have +seen in Holland, in the way of painting, are the little gems descriptive +of life as it lay about the artist--interiors of domestic abodes, and +out-door scenes at the roadside. These, the patient, plodding Dutchmen +have worked up most elaborately. One or two of Nicholas Maes's pictures +are wonderful. I saw one in a private collection, and it was a glorious +thing, though only a Kitchen, with two or three figures. O, how poor are +the things we often hear spoken of as fine pictures! The eye, it seems +to me, obtains its education rapidly in such a gallery as this. I am +sure I shall look at works of art in future with new feelings. + +There was a most beautiful Jew boy, about eleven years old, that used to +stand at our hotel door to sell matches, who regularly beset us with his +wares. His face was as striking as any fancy picture you can meet with, +and his beauty and impudence made him a pretty successful merchant. + +Mr. Schwartze took us to a noble mansion belonging to a merchant prince, +to see his great picture of Columbus before the Council explaining his +theory. This is a first-class execution. The coloring is very fine, and +the drawing good; and we all felt pride in seeing such a picture from +the easel of our countryman. I wish we had some good painting of his in +America. His portraits are excellent, and one of his wife has earned him +his high reputation in Holland. Through the kindness of this gentleman +we were introduced to the Artists' Club, and spent our evenings there in +very pleasant society. The artists belonging to it are probably about +fifty, and the other gentlemen who mainly support it are about two +hundred. I was much surprised to find nearly every gentleman we were +introduced to speaking excellent English. We met here a very gentlemanly +and accomplished lawyer, Mr. Van Lennep, whose father is a man of great +wealth. His attentions were very friendly. While here, James was quite +poorly with some slight attack of fever; and both our friends and the +consul were unremitting in their services. + +The water is very poor; rain water is valuable indeed. The best drinking +water is brought from Utrecht in stone demijohns. The bad water is often +used, however, flavored with Schiedam. We saw several of the +floating-houses, in which whole families reside, and carry articles from +place to place. The herring fishery, in its season, is a great matter in +the commerce of Amsterdam. Every thing here impresses the stranger with +the idea of activity, wealth, and great comfort; and I fancy that a +person would very soon become attached to the city as a place of +residence. To-morrow, if James is better, we resume our journey, and +start for Cologne. + +Yours affectionately, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 39. + + +COLOGNE. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We are strangely favored with weather; every day is fine; and we begin +to think that the climate has been abused, for we have had an +uninterrupted spell of bright, sunny weather. We started, after +breakfast, for our journey to Cologne, and took the oars for Utrecht, +which is twenty-three miles from Amsterdam. Our road was not one of +much interest, beyond the pretty gardens of the suburban residences. +Breukelen and Maarsen we thought pleasant little places. Utrecht is a +large town, and has, I think, nearly sixty thousand inhabitants; and of +these, one half are Catholics. It is rather on an ascent, and so is +unlike any other place we have seen in Holland. The place is famous for +the treaty of 1713. Here is a university, and some very fine private +residences; and the fortifications have been laid out in fine walks. The +Mall, or public walk, is a noble avenue of trees,--limes, I think,--and +they are in six or eight rows. In this place is a cathedral, which we +only saw. From its tower is the best view of the country; and it is said +you can see more than twenty towns from it. + +From Utrecht we continued, by railroad, to Arnheim, a distance of +thirty-three miles; and we saw more forest-trees than we had before +noticed. In the cars were several Catholic priests, who smoked +incessantly. Arnheim is on the banks of the Rhine, and is a pretty +little place, of about sixteen thousand inhabitants. We were, of course, +reminded by Dr. C. that here Sir Philip Sidney died, in 1586, of his +wound received in the battle of Zutphen. The entire vicinity seemed to +us a delightful spot, and we have seen no place where the houses appear +so English and American. The scenery is very attractive; and we would +have liked to stay over a day, but the steamer for Ruhrort was ready to +start, and we had only time to get our tickets and go on board. We found +a neat, comfortable boat, and met pleasant society. The Rhine here is +bounded by flat shores, and has no points of interest, and affords no +promise of what it is so soon to be. We entered Prussia at Lobith, and +had a very thorough examination of our trunks by officers who came on +board. At Wesel--a town, I think, of some twelve thousand inhabitants, +and having a very strong fortress--we stopped half an hour, and a crowd +came round the boat. Rapin, who wrote the History of England, lived here +while engaged in the task. How singular it is that all the histories of +England, of any note, have been written by men not born in England! They +have been French, Scotch, Irish, &c. We reached Ruhrort in the +afternoon, and left the boat. This is the great central depot where the +coal of the Ruhr is deposited. Here we crossed in a ferry boat, rode a +mile or two in an omnibus, and then took the cars for Cologne, after +waiting some hour or two, in consequence of a delay--the first we have +met with on any railroad on the continent. It was dark when we passed +through Dusseldorf; and we felt sorry not to stay here and see the +water-color drawings that remain in this collection, once so famous; but +we were told at Paris that the best of the drawings and pictures have +gone to Munich. In the cars we met a gentleman and his lady who were +evidently Americans. We entered into conversation, and found they were +from Nashville, Tennessee. They bad been travelling very extensively in +Europe, and had been through Egypt, crossed the desert, and visited +Syria and the Holy City. I quite respected a lady, Charley, who had +travelled hundreds of miles upon a camel. The journey had been very +beneficial to her health. We reached Cologne at about ten o'clock, after +crossing over a bridge of boats fourteen hundred feet long, and went to +the Hotel Holland, on the banks of the river, and found it a very good +house, with a grand view of the Rhine; and the chambers are as good as +can be desired. Few places are more fruitful in the reminiscences which +they furnish than this old city. Cologne has a Roman origin, and was +settled by a colony sent by Nero and his mother, who was born here, in +her father's camp, during the war. It still retains the walls of its +early fortifications, built as long ago as the twelfth and thirteenth +centuries. In Cologne Caxton lived, in 1470, and learnt the new art of +printing, which he carried to England and introduced there. Its present +population is about ninety thousand, having increased latterly, and, no +doubt, will rapidly increase, in consequence of its connection with +Paris, Strasburg, Berlin, Antwerp, and other cities, by railroads. + +We turned our steps very early to the Cathedral, and here we expected +nothing less than a treat; but much as we had heard of it, and often as +the doctor had described it, we found it far beyond all our +anticipations. The church was commenced in 1248, and is still far from +completed. It is always thought to be one of the grandest Gothic piles +in the world. The name of the architect is not known. Gerhard is the +earliest builder whose name is associated with this church, in 1252. The +plan was to build the two towers five hundred feet high; but the +loftiest has only attained the height of about one hundred and +eighty-five feet. Much of the external work is in decay; but great pains +and cost have been given to repair the stone work, and the work is going +on with vigor and success. It is supposed that it will require three +millions of dollars to carry out the design. The form of the church is a +cross, and "the arches are supported by a quadruple row of sixty-four +columns; and, including those of the portico, there are more than one +hundred. The four columns in the middle are thirty feet in +circumference, and each of the one hundred columns is surmounted by a +chapiter different from the others." On one tower still exists the old +crane which raised the stones that came from Drachenfels. The only part +of the cathedral yet finished is the choir. This is one hundred and +sixty-one feet high; and, whether you look at it outside, or gaze on +its interior, you are lost in admiration. The stained windows are really +beyond all others I have seen. All round the choir stand colossal +statues of the Apostles, the Virgin, and the Savior. In a chapel not far +from the altar is the renowned shrine of the Three Kings, or Magi, who +came from the East with gifts to the infant Savior. These bones once +rested at Milan; but Frederic Barbarossa, in 1162, gave them to an +archbishop of Cologne. So here they are in a case, silver gilt, and +arcades on pillars all round; and, inside the pillars, little gold +prophets and apostles. The jewelry at this shrine has been formerly +valued at six millions of francs; but in some of its transportations in +troublous times, it has met with spoliations; but it is still radiant +with gold and pearls, and gems of all descriptions. The restoration of +the shrine is going on, and costly offerings are frequently made in aid +of the undertaking. The skulls of these worthies are crowned with gold, +and look ghastly enough, in spite of diamonds and rubies. Their names +are Caspar, Melchior, and Balthasar. We paid a heavy fee to see the rare +show; but it is well enough to understand the mummery that there is in +the world. We went the entire round of the little chapels, and saw some +fine monuments to the great ones of church and state. I was much pleased +with a bronze statue of Archbishop Conrad, of Hocksteden, who died in +1261, and some exceedingly old paintings. We also saw the library and +sacristy, and the sacred vestments, some of which were splendid enough. +Here we saw a bone of St. Matthew some saint's shrine in silver, and the +state cross of the archbishop, with several of the very finest ivory +carvings that we have fallen in with. A look at the vast workshop where +the stone carvings for restoration are made was quite interesting. + +While wandering through the aisles of the Cathedral, we met with a very +pleasant family from New York; and, after introduction, we agreed to +make the passage of the Rhine together; and, as there are young people +in the party, this will be very agreeable to us. We have rather a +limited time to pass here, and so have concluded to neglect the Virgin's +bones, at St. Ursula's Church, of which we have read all the legends. +Men and women trained up to worship these odds and ends are the people +who are flocking by thousands to our country; and there is a great deal +for such folks to learn before they will value and understand our +privileges. We next turned our steps to St. Peter's Church, where Rubens +was baptized; and we saw the brass font, which is still there, and also +his father's tomb. It was to this church that the great painter +presented his famous Crucifixion of Peter, which he thought the best he +ever painted; but artists differ with him in this estimate. The picture +now exposed to view is only a copy, which was made in Paris when the +original was in the Louvre; but the man in charge turns the picture, +which is on a pivot, and you have the original before you. Peter's head +is very fine, and much more striking than the rest of the body. The +little garden in the cloisters of this church is very sweet, and there +are some good bits of sculpture. The beautiful Church of the Apostles we +could not see, excepting outside, and its appearance is quite singular. +The styles of architecture I thought strangely mixed up. Of course, we +got some cologne water at the genuine fountain head in Julich's Place; +and in the evening we made an examination of a curiosity shop, where we +found a fine old engraving of Rubens's head, and two excellent +engravings of Ostades's interiors. They are gems in their way, and, +though very old, are perfect. We saw the house where the unfortunate +Queen of France died, in 1644, respecting whose last days so interesting +a fiction has been written; and we were told that it was also the very +house in which Rubens was born. At all events, it is a very plain +establishment for such celebrity as it possesses. We have also seen a +military review here; but the discipline was poor, and only the music +good. + +A gentleman here from America, engaged in the wine trade, has amused us +all by his facts in relation to champagne, which is here manufactured +in large quantities, and is fabricated from a mixture of some ten or +twelve different wines. A very superior brand is the result, which the +good people of America will pay well for, with an appropriate brand duly +furnished to order. + +On the roof of our hotel is a sort of room, or garden, called the +Belvedere. In it are a variety of fine plants, in healthy condition. The +roses were very fragrant. The view across the river from this place is +charming; and the village of Deutz looks prettily, with its large hotel +and plenty of smaller houses of resort. To-morrow we go up the Rhine; +and we are all hoping for a fine day, and then we expect a pleasant one. + +Yours truly, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 40. + + +FRANKFORT. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +It was on the Rhine that we all wanted you with us, and other friends, +too, who were far away. This is no common, every-day stream, but one +whose name and renown have been associated with ten thousand pages of +history, song, and legend. We have read of the Rhine, listened to its +songs, drank its wines, dreamed of its craggy, castled banks,--and at +last we found ourselves upon its waters, rushing down from their homes +in Alpine steeps and regions of eternal snow. The deposits of this river +have made Holland what she is; and the rich plains of the Low Countries +have been formed by the alluvial deposits of this noble river. The +enthusiasm of the Germans towards this stream is well known. They call +it Father Rhine, and King Rhine; and well may they be proud of its +beauty and its historic fame. We took our passage in a fine steamer, on +a lovely morning, and it took us about eight hours to reach Coblentz. +Leaving Cologne, we passed an old tower on the edge of the river, and, +for some miles, the prospect was every day enough; and it was not till +we approached Bonn that we were much impressed with the banks. We passed +several villages, which appeared to have pleasant localities. I name +only Surdt, Urfel, Lulsdorf, and Alfter. Bonn is an old city, of Roman +date, and has figured largely in the wars of the Rhine. Its population +is about sixteen thousand. Bonn has a minster, which shows itself finely +to the voyager on the river, and is a Gothic structure of the twelfth +century. The University here is famous for its library, and the great +names formerly associated with this institution--Schlegel and Niebuhr. +Both filled chairs in the college. Prince Albert was educated at this +place. Beethoven was born here. If we could have spent a day at the +Seven Mountains, I should have been glad; but we were only able to look +at them. They vary in height from one thousand and fifty to fourteen +hundred and fifty-three feet. The most picturesque of the group is +Drachenfels; and the beautiful lines of Byron you will recollect, where +he speaks of "the castled crag of Drachenfels." From this place the +stone was taken for the Cathedral at Cologne. The summits of these seven +mountains are crested with ruined castles. Their sides are well wooded, +and around them are spread fruitful vineyards. You know how famous they +are in the legendary lore of the Rhine. The view from Drachenfels is +said to be one of the finest on the river. After leaving Bonn and the +ruins of Godesberg, we soon came to Rolandseck, a lofty eminence, where +are the remains of a baronial fortress and a celebrated ruin of an arch. +I should judge that the access to this place was by a charming road. The +ruins of Rolandseck are immortalized by the ballad of Schiller. +Tradition relates that the castle was destroyed by the Emperor Henry V., +in the twelfth century. At the foot of the mountain is the sweet little +Island of Nonnenwörth, of about one hundred acres, and the ruins of a +convent. The rock here is basaltic, and the production of volcanic +action. Never did Nature present a fairer picture than we gazed upon at +this spot. The villages around are pictures of happiness and content, +and the scenery such as only the Rhine can exhibit. Passing by the +charming, rural-looking Oberwinter, we soon came upon a woody height, +where stands the Gothic Church of St. Apollinarisberg. Here is, or was, +the saint's head; and it was formerly a shrine of great resort. Close by +is the little tower Of Remagen, and opposite are basaltic rocky heights +of six or eight hundred feet, on the sides of which are vineyards--the +vines growing in baskets filled with earth and placed in the crevices of +the rocks. No square foot of soil seems to be wasted; and, to improve +the ground, you will find the plots for vines laid out like potato +patches,--some running this way, and others that,--making the sides of +the hills and banks look very much like basket work. + +We now came, on our left hand, to the ruins of Okenfels and the pretty +town of Linz. The ruins are very dark, and look as if they were past +redemption; whereas, some of these castles retain fine outlines. The red +roofs of the town are in pleasing contrast with the green woods. This +town seemed quite a business place; and I noticed several sloops and +queer-looking vessels at the piers. On the opposite side the Aar falls +into the Rhine. Just back is a town called Sinzig, and story tells that +here Constantine and Maxentius fought the battle which resulted in the +downfall of paganism. Here it was that, the evening previous, +Constantine saw in the heavens the figure of a cross, with the +inscription, [Greek: "_En toutô nika_."] But other +legends give the battle place on the banks of the Tiber. + +We were all pleased with a beautiful, modern, castellated building, +erected out of the ruins of an ancient castle, of which a single +venerable tower remains at a small distance. The name is the Castle of +Reineck. It was built for Professor Bethman Holweg, of Bonn, and he +reads his lines in pleasant places. It must have cost much money to rear +such an edifice. Nearly opposite are the ruins of Hammerstein Castle, +where, in 1105, Henry IV. found an asylum. We next came to Andernach. +This is an ancient city, and here you see towers and ruins standing +amidst a wide amphitheatre of basaltic mountains. The place is spoken of +by various old historians, and under several names. The great trade of +the place is in millstones, which find their way even to America. Here +is a celebrated Roman arched gate; but the lancet form would indicate a +later date. On our left, we came to a pleasantly-situated town, called +Neuwied, with some five thousand inhabitants. The streets lie wide; the +houses looked bright, and very much like those in an American town. Here +is a Moravian settlement. On our right is a cheerful little place, +called Weisenthurm, and an ancient tower stands near it. It is said that +here the Romans first made the crossing of this river. This was the spot +where General Hoch passed in 1797; and on a height, at this village, is +a monument to celebrate Hoch's achievement. Here we met with an enormous +raft; and I assure you, Charley, it was a sight. We had seen two or +three small ones before, but here was a monster. These rafts come from +the woods on the tributary rivers--the Moselle, Neckar, Maine, &c. These +prodigious flotillas are bound to Dordrecht, and are there broken up. +This one looked like a town. It had at least twenty-five huts, and some +of them tolerably large shanties; and I should think there were all of +three hundred and fifty persons upon it. On the raft were women, +children, cows, pigs, and sheep. This one was thought to be seven +hundred feet long and two hundred wide, at the least. On our left, as we +ascended the river, we now saw Sain and Mühlhofen, just at the point +where two small rivers enter the Rhine; and on a hill top are the ruins +of a castle of the Counts of Sain. Farther up is the quiet-looking +hamlet of Engers; and we pass the islands of Niederwörth and Graswörth. +On the former is a ruined convent, founded in 1242, and a population of +nearly seven hundred. They seem to have a fine old church. I very much +admired the village of Kesselhein, and I think it must be a charming +spot. Close by it is the Palace of Schönbornhest, where the Bourbon +family retreated at the revolution in the last century. It is now sadly +dilapidated. Just as we were looking at Nuendorf, on our right, we were +all called, by a bend in the river, to gaze on the giant rock of +Ehrenbreitstein, bristling to its very summit with fortifications. O, +how it towers up, and smiles or frowns--which you please--upon Coblentz, +sweetly reposing on the banks of the Rhine and the Moselle! I think the +view from the deck of the steamer, up and down the river, and on each +side, is the noblest panoramic view that I have seen. Just before us is +a bridge of boats, which connects the fortress with Coblentz; and, +looking up the Moselle, is a fine stone bridge. We had our dinner on the +deck of the boat--a good arrangement, because we lost none of the +scenery. This dinner was about midway between Cologne and Coblentz; and +it would have amused you to have noticed the order of the various +courses--soup, boiled beef, raw fish, ducks, roast pork, fowls, pudding, +baked fish, roast beef, and mutton. Every thing was well cooked, and I +never saw people appear more disposed to do justice to a meal. There was +not half the hurry and indecorum that you so often see in an American +boat. One thing I observed--and that was, that no one used the left hand +for the management of his knife. If any thing annoys me, it is to see +persons carve and eat at table with this wretched habit. I always +imagine that they were so unhappy as to have grown up without father or +mother to watch over them. This may be my weakness; but I cannot help +it. We went to the Trois Suisses, a fine house on the river bank, and +from our windows are looking, by moonlight, on the glorious fortress. + +Yours truly, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 41. + + +FRANKFORT. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We had no more pleasant day in our excursion than from Cologne to +Coblentz. It would be long before I grew tired of the scenery at that +fine old place. We walked about, in the evening, with our New York +friends; and, though some parts of Coblentz are very filthy, there are +some exquisite plots in it, and all the vicinage is beautiful. We took a +pleasant stroll to the bridge which spans the blue Moselle with fourteen +arches. The city stands on a point of land formed by the two rivers, and +hence was known to the Romans by the name of _Confluentes_. Drusus +fortified this place and Ehrenbreitstein thirteen years before Christ. +Its population is short of twenty thousand; but there are also four +thousand five hundred Prussian troops at the fortress. This is one of +the strongest military posts in Europe. Its fortifications have been the +labor of long years; and the works here, united with those across the +river, are deemed impregnable. I believe Ehrenbreitstein is called the +Gibraltar of Germany. It mounts four hundred cannon, and the magazines +will contain provisions for eight thousand men for ten years. The former +Electoral Palace is now the Government House, and presents a very noble +appearance from the river. It is either stone, or stuccoed, with an +Ionic portico; and, with its wings, is five hundred and forty feet +front. All round this city, the heights are strongly fortified; and, +look where you may, you see means of defence. + +We here determined upon an excursion to Stolzenfels, which is about four +miles from Coblentz, and our party went in two carriages--the family of +Mr. B. in one, and ourselves in the other. The ride was very pleasant +along the banks of the Rhine, and through orchards and vineyards--the +heights towering away over us all the way. We came to the village of +Capellen, which is a poor little hamlet at the base of the lofty +mountain on which stood the noble ruins of Stolzenfels Castle, which has +been most admirably restored, and is now the summer palace of the King +of Prussia. The ascent is very steep, but the road is admirable. +Carriages are not allowed to go up, and travellers are supplied with +donkeys, of which we found plenty in waiting. Our party all obtained +these patient beasts of burden, and I assure you that we made a funny +cavalcade. I do think it would have amused you to see ladies, gentlemen, +and boys, all escorted by ragged urchins, mounting the hill. The road +has been made at immense expense, and winds along in the most romantic +manner--giving you, at every turn, the finest views and catches of the +river, up and down; while the walls are frequently at the edges of +precipices, from fifty to two hundred feet over the ravines below. The +woods were in all their glory, and I never saw a finer day. On arriving +at the castle, we rang a bell, and the servant in livery appeared--a +fine, civil fellow he was. On entering, we were all furnished with felt +slippers, so that, in walking through the apartments, we might not +injure the polished oak floors. This castle was the residence of +Archbishop Werner, who, at the close of the fourteenth century, was +devoted to alchemy. The old tower is an immense affair, and still +remains, and is likely to remain for ages. The new parts of the palace +have all been restored with constant reference to the original +architectural style. We wandered from one apartment to another, perhaps +going into twenty or thirty apartments, none of which were very large, +and many of them quite small and cosy. We saw the bed-room of the king. +Every thing was plain, and the furniture generally made of oak or black +walnut. His study table had pen and ink and paper upon it, just as if +he had stepped out of the room. The queen's apartments were very +elegantly plain, and her oratory is as pretty a little thing as you can +imagine. In all these apartments are fine pictures, and one is superbly +frescoed with allegory and history. The room in which the Queen of +England and Prince Albert lodged, in 1845, was shown us, and the state +bed was still in it. The dining hall was finely ornamented with +carvings, old armor, &c. But a room devoted to antiquities pleased us +the best of all. Here were cups, bottles, and glass goblets of the +earliest dates,--some as far back as the twelfth and thirteenth +centuries,--which had belonged to emperors and electors whom I cannot +recollect, they were so many. On the walls were the most precious +mementoes; and here we saw the swords of Marshal Tilly, Napoleon +Bonaparte,--the one used at Waterloo,--Blucher, and Murat, and the knife +and fork belonging to the brave Hofer, the Tyrolese patriot, who was +shot at Mantua. From all the windows of this gem of a palace we had the +finest views of the river, and could see, from the gateway and platform, +Coblentz, Ehrenbreitstein, and eleven different ruins of castles and +convents. Directly in front of us, on a bend of the river, almost making +a peninsula, was Lahnstein and its ruined castle; off to its right, +Braubach, and the Castle of Marksburg and Martin's Chapel; and, on our +own side, the pretty village of Rheus, where was once "the royal seat," +and where the electors of the Rhine used to meet, to elect or depose the +emperors of Germany. All round the castle of Stolzenfels are the +choicest flowers and shrubs; and I wish some of my horticultural friends +could have seen the moss roses and fuchias in such luxuriance. We were +sorry to leave the place; but the steamboat on the Rhine is as punctual +as a North River boat; and we had to resume our donkeys, descend to the +carriages, drive briskly, and were just in time to get on board a boat +bound to Mayence. In going up the river, we saw the palace again to +great advantage; and, whatever else I forget, this locality I shall keep +in memory, I assure you. We again looked at Lahnstein, and the ruins of +St. John's Church, built in 1100, and saw a curious ferry, from the +mouth of the Lahn over to Stolzenfels. It is made by five or six boats +anchored off, and the ferry boat goes over, wafted by the tide. We then +came upon Bopart, an old place, but strongly fortified, and having three +or four thousand inhabitants. A gentleman on board, who had been there, +said it was quite an interesting place. Nearly opposite we were +delighted with the ruined towers of the Brothers, as Sternberg and +Liebenstein are called. They occupy the two summits of a rock, every +inch of whose sides is sacred to vines. The story of the brothers who +lived here you are acquainted with. Our next point of interest was the +ruin of Thurnberg, or the Mouse; while not far above is another, called +the Cat. The view here grows more sublime, and the river grows narrower; +and we had a fine prospect of Rheinfels and the town of St. Goar. +Rheinfels grows up from the river's edge, and is, indeed, _the_ rock of +the Rhine. The fortifications were immense, and this is the most +wonderful ruin on the river. A confederacy of German and Rhenish cities +broke up this fortress at the close of the thirteenth century, and long +afterwards it was made a modern defence. Here the river seems pent up, +almost; and just above St. Goar there rises from the water a lofty +precipice, called the Lurley Rock. Nearly opposite, a man lives, who, +when the boat passes, fires a pistol, and a very singular echo follows, +as we can testify. Not far above are seven rocks, seen at low water, +called the Seven Sisters. The legend says that they were hard-hearted +girls,--the Ladies Schonberg,--who trifled with the affections of nice +young men, and so got their deserts by being turned into stones. Still, +at the right, we came to Oberwesel, and we all thought it among the +sweetest spots of the river. Salmon are caught in nets here, from the +rocks. A bend in the river shows us Schonberg, a fine ruin. This was the +family spot whence the Marshal Schomberg, of the Boyne, originated. Just +over the river is the noble Gutenfels. It was spared by the French, and +occupied till 1807, but is now roofless. Caub, on the left, is the place +where Marshal Blucher crossed the river with his army, January 1, 1814. +In the centre of the river is a castle called Pfalz, built about 1320, +which was used as a toll-house by the Duke of Nassau. I think it has +been used as a state prison. On our right lies Bacharach, with its many +towers, and the fine old ruins of Stahleck Castle. Off this place is a +large rock, the Altar of Bacchus; and when the rock is exposed, it is +thought to be the pledge of a good vintage. The region is celebrated for +its wines; and the grapes of the slaty rocks have a highly musky +perfume. A gentleman told me that Bacharach resembles Jerusalem in its +aspect. Of course, it must be in miniature that the resemblance exists. +Here we noticed St. Werner's Church, a most superb ruin of the florid +Gothic. Those lancet-arched windows are the admiration of all who pass +by. Lorchausen is a small place, and just away from it are the ruins of +the Castle of Nollingen. On the other side, or right bank, are the ruins +of the old Keep Tower of Fürstenberg, destroyed in 1689. Here we enter +on the region where the best Rhenish wine is produced. The Rheingau, or +valley of the river, is divided into upper and lower departments; and +from about Lorch, on the left bank, up to Biberich, are the choicest +vineyards. On our right lay the ruins of Heimberg, and the restored +Castle of Sonneck. Then comes old Falkenberg, and near to it is the +splendid Gothic Church of St. Clement. All these fortresses were the +abodes of wholesale highwaymen, and then might made right. Most of them +became such nuisances that, at the close of the thirteenth century, they +were hurled down, and their places made desolate. Here, too, is +Rheinstein, on the very bank of the river. Its early owner was hanged by +the Emperor Rudolph. One of the Prussian princes has fitted up the +fortress in magnificent style; and I learn that there is no palace in +Europe that can boast of such mediæval splendor. Every thing that can +serve to illustrate the dark ages is carefully collected for this +charming spot, which seems a rival to Stolzenfels. + +Just across, on the opposite bank, is Assmanshausen, famous for hot +baths and red wine. Here you see terrace upon terrace, up to the summits +of the hills; and some of these, the guide books say, are one thousand +or twelve hundred feet. You will often see fifteen or twenty of these +terraces supported by brick and stone fences, and the terrace is often +not more than six feet wide; and the soil and manure have all to be +carried up on the shoulders of the vine-dressers. The value of this +region-arises from its aspect, owing to the bend of the river, which +gives _this left bank, as you ascend_, a direct exposure to the sun at +midday. + +The vintage of the Rhine, I am told, is generally gathered in during +October and November, but it is put off as late as possible. Grapes were +introduced here by the Romans. + +We now came to Ehrenfels, in its venerable decay, the beautiful tower of +Rosel, and the ruins of Bromseberg; while on our right are the ruins of +Vautsberg, and just beyond we come upon "Bingen of the Rhine," at the +mouth of the Nahe; and close by is the celebrated Mausetherm, or Mouse +Tower, said to have been built by Hatto, the Archbishop of Mayence, in +the tenth century. Southey's fine ballad has immortalized the legend. +Never did town present sweeter aspect than Bingen, at the foot of a +pyramidical hill, which is crowned by the ruined Castle of Klopp. In a +church here lies Bartholomew of Holshausen, who prophesied the fatality +of the Stuarts and Charles II.'s restoration, warning him not to restore +Popery. Bingen has, I think, some five or six thousand inhabitants, and +has a great trade in wine, which is collected here from all the +vineyards around. Rudesheim lies on the other bank, and its famous wine +comes from grapes growing close to Ehrenfels. Next comes Geisenheim, +also famous for wine, and soon comes the renowned village and vineyard +of Johannisberg, or Mountain of St. John. Here the river is wide +again,--perhaps two thousand fire hundred feet,--and we begin to see +fine meadows. This is where Prince Metternich has his seat, where once +was a priory, and various have been its vicissitudes. In 1816, it was +given to Metternich by the Emperor of Austria. The mountain contains +only seventy-five acres, and the choicest wine comes only from vines +growing near the castle, on the crown of the bill. The wine of the +village is very inferior to that of this estate. The place has but few +inhabitants--say five or eight hundred. The house is white, and not very +castle-like. The grape is called the _Riesslingen_. + +[Illustration: VINEYARD ON THE RHINE.--Pp. 175.] + +Here we found several islands. Erbach and Hattenheim are both famous for +vineyards, and between them grows the famous Marcobrünner; and the +Steinberg vineyard, a fortune to the Duke of Nassau, lies upon a slope +of the hill close to the convent, of Eberbach or Erbach. This convent +was founded in 1131, but is now a lunatic asylum. The churches here are +very fine. Opposite the shore lies Rhine Island, and forms a noble park. +Walluff, with few inhabitants, is regarded as the commencement of the +Rheingau, or wine district, along which we had coasted. Biberich, on the +duchy of Nassau, now comes upon our view; and the noble château of the +duke presents one of the finest mansions on the river. Here some of our +passengers left for Frankfort, and took the rail; but we wished to see +Mayence, and so went in the boat. The city looks finely, and its red +towers and steeples make quite a show. This city belongs to the Duke of +Hesse Darmstadt, and is garrisoned by Austrians and Prussians, in equal +force, generally eight or ten thousand. Exclusive of these, the +population is nearly forty thousand. We walked about, and looked at the +fine Cathedral, which was sadly shut up by houses and shanties. It was +too late to enter it. You may be sure, Charley, that we found out the +monument to John Guttemberg, the inventor of movable types. It is of +bronze, and was designed by Thorwaldsen, and stands in front of the +Theatre, once a university. After perambulating the town till weary, we +came to the bridge of boats, sixteen hundred and sixty-six feet long, +and which connects Mayence with Cassel, a strongly fortified place, +where the railroad depot is located. At this bridge are several boat +mills, or tide mills, where grain is ground by the tidal action. They +look strangely, but work well. On the bridge we met many Austrian +officers in rich uniforms, most of them young, and, I thought, very +aristocratical in their bearing. Our dinner on board the boat was as +profuse as the day before; and I must not forget to tell you that we had +an English lordling, son of a former premier, on board, with his lady, +on their matrimonial tour. He was the worst-mannered young man that I +have seen in Europe; and when he had ogled the company sufficiently with +his glass, and manifested his contempt pretty plainly, he and his betook +themselves to the interior of his carriage. He was quite young, and may +grow better behaved. We took the ears at dark, and after riding +twenty-two miles found ourselves at Frankfort, having passed through +Hochheim, where the vineyards are so costly that the railroad company +had to pay well for the passage-way. Here we put up at the Hotel +Angleterre. Forgive this long letter; but I could not well shorten it, +and I want you to know just what we saw. + +Always yours, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 42. + + +STRASBURG. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +James's long letter gave you a pretty correct view of our passage from +Coblentz to Frankfort. You will recollect that we went up the Rhine, +which gave us more time to look about; but I fancy that in going down +stream the shores would show to better advantage, if possible, than in +the ascent. From Coblentz to Mayence the river is narrower than before; +and every rock more precipitous than its neighbor, has a castle. How +some of these towers were built, or could be got at, seems a mystery. I +had no idea of the number of these robbers' nests, for such they were. +Much as I love the Hudson, yet I cannot help saying that the Rhine is +_the_ river of the world, so far as I have seen the watery highways. +Frankfort is one of the free towns of Germany, and lies on the Maine. It +has about sixty-five thousand inhabitants, of whom seven thousand are +Jews. I like the city much, and think a residence here would be very +agreeable. Some of the modern streets are very handsome, and the +dwellings are fine. The old part of the town is old enough. At our hotel +we found a sentinel on guard, in honor of an Austrian general staying at +the house. The house is a capital one, like all the other great hotels +we have yet seen on the continent. We all went to see the Römer, or Town +Hall, which was built about 1425, and which is quite famous for its +historical associations. Here the German emperors were formerly elected +and inaugurated. We saw the great hall where they were entertained and +had crowned heads for waiters. Here, on its walls, are all the portraits +of the series of emperors from Conrad I. to Francis II., and each +emperor has his motto underneath. Some of these are quaint enough. +Directly in front of this building is the Römerberg, or Market-place, in +which the carousing incident to coronation used to occur; and it is +large enough to accommodate a vast assembly. We rode along the banks of +the river, to see a pretty little palace belonging to Duke Somebody, and +especially to see the grounds and hothouses. They were exquisitely +beautiful. As we were here upon a holiday of the church, the Museum was +closed, and we lost the sight of some good pictures. We were much +pleased with a visit to the garden of Mr. Bethman, a banker, where we +saw a pretty little collection of statuary, the gem of which is +Dannecker's statue of Ariadne. The building in which these are placed is +neat. We, of course, went to see No. 74 in the Hersch-Graben, where +Goethe was born, in 1749. In the corner house of the Dom Platz, Luther +once dwelt We rode through the Jews' quarters; and, of all the +wretched-looking streets, I think the worst and filthiest is that in +which Baron Rothschild was born. As we passed a Sabbath here, we +attended the English Episcopal Church, a neat building. The service was +well read by the chaplain, and an excellent sermon was preached by a +stranger. After service I spoke to the chaplain, who was quite anxious +to hear about the prospects of Popery in America. He seemed to have very +just views of the system, and anxiously deprecated its influence in our +Country. + +We visited many shops, and found the richest collections of curiosities +and antiquities. Here we met with several American friends upon their +tour; and at Frankfort we took leave of our New York friends, whose +kindness and agreeable company we had been favored with for a few days. + +We took the rail for Heidelberg, on our way to Strasburg. The whole of +the first few miles was through a very flat-looking country, and our +interest was not called out till we came to Darmstadt, a fine town, with +thirty thousand inhabitants. We saw a tall column, but could not find +out its historical allusion. This is the capital of the grand duchy of +Hesse Darmstadt. In passing through Odenwald, we saw a tract of woody +country; and off to our left we were quite sure that the scenery must be +very beautiful. The hills in the distance form the boundary on the +eastern part of the valley of the Rhine; and the mountain ranges are +richly covered with vineyards and castles all the way, parallel with the +railroad. This beautiful region is called the Bergstrasse, and I am sure +a week or two on these hills would amply repay the pedestrian. It is in +these wild regions of romance that the Castle of Rodenstein is found, +some ten miles from Erbach; and not far from it Castle Schnellert, where +the wild Jager is supposed to live, who haunts the forests and gives +spectral forewarnings of battles. Off to our left there was a constantly +shifting panoramic view of hill top and ruins. + +Heidelberg is sweetly situated on the bank of the Neckar--a beautiful +river, and one that I long to trace by its course through wood and hill. +This town is famous for its university and castle. It has about seven +hundred and fifty students. We could only see the castle, and admire its +exterior. The college was founded in 1386, and is very distinguished as +a law school. The library is very large and excellent. The barbarian +Tilly is said to have provided litter for his cavalry from books and +MSS. out of this then magnificent collection. The ruin of this glorious +old castle dates from 1764, when it was burnt by lightning. It is built +of red stone. If I live, I hope to visit this place again, and make a +thorough exploration of this stupendous ruin. It is here, in a cellar, +that the largest wine butt in the world is found, and it will contain +eight hundred hogsheads. It has long been empty, however. I never longed +to follow a river more than I do this same Neckar--it is so clear, and +all my glimpses of it have been so filled up with quiet beauty and wild +scenery. We saw a hill, near the town, which affords the finest view, we +are told, in Germany, and even takes in Strasburg Cathedral spire, which +is quite ninety miles off! + +From Heidelberg we again took the cars for Kehl, about four miles from +Strasburg, a distance of nearly ninety miles. The first-class cars are +very luxurious and reasonable; second class, excellent, and very +genteel-looking persons using them. Lord Cowley, father of Lady Bulwer, +wife of the minister from England at Washington, was in the cars with +us, and two of his children--one a beautiful little girl. They were +going to Baden, and were accompanied by a governess. + +We found no more of the extraordinary beauty that had made our morning +ride so charming. Bruchsal seemed a dull place, as seen from the +station; and Durlach had not much greater attractions. Carlsruhe is +quite a place, has some repute for its baths, and is the capital of the +grand duchy of Baden. Off to the south of this town we saw the skirts of +the Black Forest. All around we saw a fine growth of poplars. Passing +Etlingen and Muggensturm, we come to Rastadt--rather a pretty station, +and the town is fortified. At Oos our passengers for Baden took a branch +train, which, after three miles' ride, brought them into the famous +Baden-Baden. We reached Kehl, which is a mere village on the Rhine, but +has seen enough of war. Here we took an omnibus and started for +Strasburg, distant some four miles. When we reached the French +custom-house, over the river, we had quite a searching time; and even a +flask of cologne was taxed some twenty cents. We were weary enough, and +glad to get into quarters, which we established at the Ville de Paris, +a very superior house, with excellent rooms and elegant furniture, while +the cookery was perfect. To-morrow we have enough to see and to do. +To-night we shall retire early; but, go where we may, we shall furnish +you the promised account of our wanderings. + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 43. + + +STRASBURG. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Long before we entered this city, we obtained a fine view of its great +glory, the Cathedral spire. What an object! It does not seem as if +hammer and chisel had had any thing to do here. I can almost fancy that +this spire was thought out and elaborated by mere intellect. It would be +long ere I grew weary of looking at this wondrous work of man. The more +you examine this edifice, the more you are impressed with its +magnificence. Let me tell you about this same minster, as it is called. +The spire is four hundred and seventy-four feet high--one hundred and +forty feet higher than St. Paul's, and twenty-four feet higher than the +Pyramids of Egypt. The architect was Erwin of Steinbach, and his plans +survived him. He died in 1318, when the work was carried on by his son. +The tower was not finished till four hundred and twenty-five years +after the commencement of the building, and then Hültz, from Cologne, +came to effect the undertaking. The tracery of this lofty pinnacle is +inimitably beautiful. We ascended the spire, and I can assure you that +the prospect amply repays the trouble. We saw the winding, silvery +Rhine, the Black Forest, and the long line of the Vosges Mountains. I +never felt more keenly my inability to describe a place than when I +walked through this gorgeous sanctuary. You must see it, to form an +adequate idea of its grandeur. The nave was begun in 1015, and completed +in 1275. The choir is yet older, and is thought to belong to the times +of Charlemagne. The large rose window, over the front entrance, is +thought to be the finest specimen of stained glass now existing. The +stone pulpit of 1486 is the grandest we have yet seen, and in better +taste than some of the carved wood pulpits in Belgium. The columns are +very massive. One of the chief attractions in this church is the +mechanical clock, which occupies a large space at the left hand as you +enter the building. The true time to see it is at twelve o'clock, when +Death strikes the hour, the apostles all pass before you, a large cock +up above flaps his wings and crows admirably three times, flags are +waved, and the affair ends. Here, close by, is the architect Erwin's +effigy, in stone. + +We next went to St. Thomas's Church, to see the superb tomb of Marshal +Saxe, which is a work of great merit. In a vault we saw the remains of a +Count of Nassau and his daughter, who had been coffined down for--I +forget how long, but I think more than two centuries. It was here that +Guttemburg began his experiments in printing, which he perfected at +Mayence. We made some purchases here of embroidery, which we thought +very beautiful, and also cheap. General Kleber's tomb and monument are +in the Place d'Armes. Of course, we did not visit Strasburg and forget +that it furnishes _pâté's des fois gras_. We obtained some good +engravings of the churches and other points of interest, and, on a fine +afternoon, took the railroad for Basle. + +Yours affectionately, + +GEORGE. + + + + +Letter 44. + + +BASLE. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We took the cars from Strasburg in the afternoon for this place. The +distance is eighty-six miles; and, owing to some twenty way stations, we +were nearly five hours on the rail; but the beauty of the scenery +reconciled us to a prolongation of the time usually spent on such a +journey. The general route was over a flat country, with sundry bridges +over small streams; but, off to our right, we were close to the Vosges +Mountains, which kept us company nearly every mile of the journey. I +suppose you know that Strasburg is very strongly fortified. We saw its +works to great advantage when leaving the city by the train. We were +much assisted in our knowledge of places on the mountains by a fine +panoramic volume of engravings which we bought at Strasburg, and which +really gives a capital idea of the entire scene of travel. I will just +name the principal places that we passed by and through, that you may +trace on the map and read about them, for some are important towns. St. +Erstein is a place of four thousand inhabitants; Benfield is very pretty +indeed; and close by is a fine-looking town, with a fine situation. We +saw a noble spire off to our left. Schlestadt has ten thousand +inhabitants, and is fortified. From it chimneys, we supposed it must be +a manufacturing place. The view of the Vosges here is very imposing. +They are generally with rolling summits; and upon some eminence, jutting +out, stands a castle. The Hoher Königsberg is the largest castle of the +range, and it was destroyed during the thirty years' war, in 1633. Here +we saw fine vineyards. Colmar looks like a very prosperous place. Its +manufactories make quite a show, and all around we saw well-built cotton +factories; and the entire spot had a Rhode Island look. Dr. C. turned +our attention to the village of Turckheim, about three miles off, where +Marshal Turenne beat the Imperialists in 1675. Egnisheim and its +three-towered castle is a small affair. Bolwiller is a perfect vineyard +all around, and the wines of this region are excellent. Nothing, hardly, +seems to be cultivated but the vine. Opposite to this place is the +loftiest of the Vosges; and my panorama makes it four thousand seven +hundred feet above the sea. Mühlhausen is a very active, busy-looking +town, with a population of nearly thirty thousand. Here the fine cotton +prints of France are fabricated. Much of the property is owned at Basle, +we were afterwards told. This place has to obtain its cotton from Havre +and Marseilles; and even coal has to come from a distance. + +It was dark when we took an omnibus at the terminus; and, after riding +over an old bridge, we were very soon established at a princely hotel +known as the Trois Rois. This house is on the banks of the Rhine, and +its windows command a very fine view. The historical reminiscences of +Basle are interesting, and its position very commanding. Here the Rhine +is bounded by the hills of the Black Forest and the Jura range. + +Next morning we took a stroll to see the lay of the land; and we found +ourselves on a terrace overlooking the Rhine, and forming a part of the +cathedral ground. O, it was glorious to look at, Charley. There, +stretched away on the other side, were the hills of the Black Forest, +whose legends we have so often pored over. This terrace is finely-wooded +with linden and chestnut-trees. We walked back to town, and called upon +our consul, Mr. Burchardt, and found him very kind and friendly. He gave +himself up to us for the entire day, and became our guide to all the +objects of interest. He dined with us; and then we all went to his +charming country-house, about one and a half miles from town, and took +tea with his family. Our first object was the Cathedral. This is a red +sandstone church, with two steeples, and was consecrated in 1019. The +crypt, no doubt, is as ancient as this date. Here is the tomb of the +empress, wife of Rudolph of Hapsburg. Here, too, we saw the tombstone of +Erasmus, who died in 1536. In the cloisters, which are very noble, are +the monuments of OEcolampadius, Grynæus and Myer, the reformers. This +church is Protestant. It is plain, but venerable. In the chapter-house, +which we visited, was held the Council of Basle, which lasted from 1436 +to 1444. The room is just as it then appeared, and the very cushions on +the seats are still preserved. Our next visit was to the Holbein +Gallery, where the largest collection of paintings by this master is to +be seen. Here we saw the fragments of the Dance of Death, but which +some say are of an earlier date than Holbein's day. I liked his +portraits better than his other pieces. One sketch of Sir Thomas More's +family is very fine. We also saw the library, and a large collection of +Roman antiquities. The portraits are very fine at the library; and we +saw those of Euler and Bernouilli, the mathematicians. At the university +we saw the building, and received polite attentions from the librarian +and Latin professor. We also saw the professor of chemistry, renowned +for his discovery of gun cotton. The collection of MSS. is very large +and rich; and we had the gratification to have in our hands the +handwriting of several letters by Melancthon, Calvin, Luther, Erasmus, +&c., &c. I think this is a good place to live in for purposes of study. +At Basle there is a large missionary seminary; and a great many of the +best missionaries in India and Africa were educated here. We also +visited the private reading-room of a club, and found a very good +library there. On the table were several American papers--the New York +Herald, Express, and the Boston Mercantile Journal. After dinner we took +a carriage and repaired to St. Jacob, a quiet village, about one mile +from Basle. Here we found a neat little church, and, at the junction of +two roads, a Gothic cross, to commemorate the famous battle of St. +Jacob, in 1444, when sixteen hundred Swiss fought the French army under +the dauphin for a whole day. The French were over sixteen thousand +strong. Only ten Swiss escaped the slaughter. Lest you should think me +at fault upon the numbers in this battle, I would say that I know +Watteville calls the Swiss twelve hundred, and the French thirty +thousand; but I quote from Swiss historians, who are deemed good +authority. We went into the little tavern and drank some red wine, which +goes by the name of Swiss blood. We then ascended an eminence commanding +a fine view of the city, the river, and the Jura Mountains. At the +summit we found a church; and the parsonage next to it looked very cosy +and comfortable. The pastor's children were running about, and were very +noble-looking boys. We learnt that while the stipend of the pastor was +very small,--as is the case in Switzerland,--yet he was a man of wealth. + +We were quite amused with the market day here. Droves of country people +were in the streets--the women in country costume; and on the ground +there were vast collections of crockery, which seemed one of the chief +articles of traffic. + +A charming drive, late in the afternoon, took us to the consul's +hospitable abode; and there, with his lady, we had a thoroughly Yankee +tea-time. In the evening we walked back to the city, crossing the old +bridge. + +Yours affectionately, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 45. + + +LAUSANNE. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We left Basle on a bright morning, at six o'clock, having places in the +_coupé_ of the diligence for Berne, a distance of seventy-six miles. We +took this route in order to enjoy the remarkable scenery which marks the +Moutiers Valley, which is the most romantic in the Jura Mountain range. +This journey entirely takes the palm, for enjoyment, of any in our tour; +and I think I am more surprised and gratified than I was on the Rhine. +Certainly the prospect was more constantly grand and awe inspiring. We +started with six horses,--three abreast,--and jogged on, at about six +miles the hour, over as good roads as I ever travelled. They are, also, +the cleanest you ever saw. All along, at intervals, we saw men with +badges on their hats, who appeared to have charge of the highway. Every +thing on the road is scraped up; and at every quarter of a mile, or +less, there is at the wayside an enclosure for manure, into which every +thing is turned. On all the line of travel in Switzerland, we were +struck with the careful way in which heaps of manure are protected by +large bands of corded hay, twisted around. Then, too, in the villages +and towns we were all interested with the enormous stone troughs for +watering cattle. Some of these appeared to me full twenty feet long, +and two or three deep. On our way from Basle we passed the battle ground +of St. Jacob; and some way farther on we saw the battle field of +Dornach, at which place the Swiss obtained a victory over the Austrians +in 1499. A little before reaching Tavannes we ascended a hill, and came +to a wonderful archway across the road--perhaps natural. On it is a +Roman inscription. The arch is, I should think, nearly fifty feet high +and fifteen feet in depth. We then went on to Bienne; and a +pretty-looking place it is. We left it on our right, and our road was +very hilly, really mountainous, and the air was sharp. As we walked for +two or three miles to help the horses, we found the wild strawberries +offered for sale very pleasant. We reached Berne late in the evening; +and the entrance to the town, through a noble avenue of trees called the +Engæ, was very pleasant. We repaired to the Faucon, and enjoyed the +repose of a long night. + +Berne is a large town, with a population of nearly thirty thousand. It +lies on the banks of the Aar, which goes almost round the city. The +great elevation of the city--seventeen hundred feet above the sea--gives +it quite an appearance on approaching it. Then the houses are all built +upon arched pathways, and they form arcades, very much like the old city +of Chester, in England. We noticed several watch towers, evidently very +ancient; and one in the town, near our hotel, has a queer clock, which, +like that at Strasburg, is mechanical. On striking, out comes a cock and +flaps away with his wings, and then little images appear, and bears pass +by a puppet, seated on a throne. Bears seem to be the guardian angels of +the place, and are the arms of the town. We were very much pleased with +an extensive prospect of the Bernese Alps, from a terrace overhanging +the rapid river. I cannot tell you how many peaks we saw covered with +snow. Our panorama, purchased here, enumerates more than a dozen; and +among these are the Wetterhorn, Stockhorn, and Jungfrau. We greatly +enjoyed a fine sunset from this spot. The Cathedral is a noble +structure, built between 1421 and 1573, and from designs by the son of +the architect of the Cathedral at Strasburg. Some of the work here is +exceedingly fine. The great entrance is very imposing, and has rich +sculptures. Here, too, are some beautifully-painted windows--one +describing the pope grinding the four evangelists in a mill, out of +which comes wafers, is very curious. The organ is very fine, and the +case one of the richest in Europe. It has four rows of keys and +sixty-six stops. The font is of black granite, and has the date of 1525, +which is three years previous to the church reformation in this canton. +It has some finely-sculptured images of the Trinity, Virgin Mary, and +St. Vincent, the patron saint of the church. We were pointed out the +communion table, of marble, which is an immense block, and before the +reformation it was an altar at Lausanne. There are some fine monuments, +having great antiquity. + +In the choir we were delighted with the old prebendal stalls, over which +were figures of Christ and his apostles, and on the opposite side +prophets, all in carved wood. One of the prophets was a capital likeness +of Luther. + +As we were leaving this noble edifice, we met a minister coming in; he +wore a short, black gown, and had a deep white ruff on his shoulders. + +The library of the town embraces about forty-five thousand volumes--and +well assorted, too. What a reproach it is to us that, excepting in +Providence, hardly any small city has what can be called a library! + +The Museum we could not examine. I spoke of bears: well, the town keeps +several of these fellows at a place called the Bärengraben. + +Much did we long to take a trip into the Bernese Oberland, but it was +not practicable; so we started for Lausanne by diligence, a distance of +fifty-six miles, and were eleven hours on the way. We saw much fine +scenery, but nothing that would compare with the Munster Thal or Valley +of Moutiers, and which I think would pay any lover of nature to come +from America to look at and travel through. The places we went through +were Morat, famous for its battle in 1476; Avenches, the Roman +Aventicum; Payerne, &c. The last few miles were of great labor in +ascent; and as it was pitch dark for some miles, I cannot tell much +about what is said to be beautiful. + +At Lausanne we went to the Hotel Gibbon, and a lovelier spot than the +rear of this mansion eye never rested upon. Again we were weary, and +found good beds very inviting. + +Yours, &c., + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 46. + + +LAUSANNE AND GENEVA. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We are staying in one of the most romantic and beautiful spots that I +ever had the pleasure to visit. The population is seventeen thousand, +and on the increase. It is the favorite resort of the English; and no +wonder, for here are displays of the glory and of the power of the +Creator rarely to be seen. The town stands on a mount, and descends +gradually to the lake. On every side are most precipitous ravines; and +the streets are the most break-neck-looking highways I ever saw. +Putnam's Leap would be thought nothing of at Lausanne. + +Our hotel overlooks Gibbon's garden, and we saw his trees and seat. +Here he composed his eloquent work on the Roman empire. His portrait is +in the hotel dining-room. The prospect surpasses in richness all that I +had fancied. Before us lie the Alps, with snowy tops; between us and +these is the glassy lake, and on its waters we notice a regatta, the +boats all adorned with flags and the crews with ribbons. There are, I +should think, from fifty to seventy-five boats in sight. Up in the Alps +there is a fire in the woods; and the volume of smoke and flashing of +flame form a fine addition to the scene. + +The temperature of the climate is very favorable to health; and now, in +June, it reminds us of our finest clear days at Newport. + +On Sabbath morning we repaired to a charming little Episcopal church, +near the lake; and the walk of a mile down hill was delightful. On both +sides of the road were fine villas, and on the left one estate had its +long wall defended by a hedge of roses in full bloom; such a hedge is +rarely to be witnessed. We heard a prosy sermon from the old gentleman +who has officiated there for some years. I noticed a lady and four sweet +little girls who sat in the next pew to us, and was convinced that she +was an English lady; and when we overtook her ascending the hill, on our +return, I took the liberty to ask a question about the church. She very +politely gave me the information, and a conversation commenced. She told +me, as a stranger, what I ought to see; and when we were leaving her, +she politely offered us an invitation to join her family in the evening, +to take a walk to the mountain overhanging Lausanne, known as the +Signal, and from whence, in olden time, the watch-fire used to be +kindled when the cantons were called to arm for liberty, or danger was +expected. This kindness we accepted; and when she gave me her address, I +found I had to call at the Hotel de Ville. Well, at half past six, the +lads and I repaired to the mansion, a very venerable pile, and we found +that our kind friend was no less a personage than the wife of the +syndic, or mayor of the city. We were most kindly received and +introduced to his honor--a fine-looking, elderly gentleman, who spoke no +English; but his family conversed generally in our language. We sallied +forth, and took a walk up, up, up,--never will the boys forget that +tramp; indeed, Charley, it was the hardest affair I ever went through; +but after the ascent was achieved, the recompense was ample. Such a +survey of lake, shore, Alps, city, villages, vineyards, cannot be +enjoyed elsewhere. It was very cold in these upper regions; and as we +descended, the shades of night were over us, and a beautiful moon made +its appearance. When parting from our friends, they urged our joining +them at seven o'clock to visit the Cathedral, with the mayor as our +guide. I accepted the polite offer, but the boys were frightened at the +thought of another ascent; for the minster is perched upon a cliff, and +you ascend some hundreds of steps to reach the platform. + +At seven we were on hand, and with the syndic and his sweet little girl +we visited the finest Gothic pile in Switzerland, which was built in +1275, and consecrated by Gregory X. The form is that of the Latin cross. +Formerly it had two towers; but one was destroyed by lightning, in 1825. +Here are several fine monuments and tombs of interest; one an effigy in +mail armor of Otho of Grandeson, and another of Pope Felix V., who +resigned the papacy and became a monk, and a very beautiful one to the +wife of Stratford Canning; the figures of which are eight in number, and +two of them are by Canova; also the tomb of Bernard de Menthon, founder +of the St. Bernard Hospice. + +We returned to the Hotel de Ville and took breakfast with Madame Gadaud, +for whom and her kind family we shall long cherish grateful +recollections. + +From Lausanne we took boat for Vevay. The port of Lausanne is the little +village of Ouchy. I ought to tell you that John Philip Kemble, the great +tragedian, is buried two miles from this place. We found the excursion +on the lake very agreeable, and passed many pretty villages on the left +shore till we came to Vevay, a sweet little town, of five thousand +inhabitants, and is embowered in vineyards. It is about one mile and a +quarter from the foot of the Alps. Here we had a view of the Castle of +Chillon, and Byron was on our tongues at once. My great object in coming +here was to see St Martin's Church, for here are buried Ludlow, the +regicide, and Broughton, who read the sentence of Charles I. Charles II. +could never get the Swiss to deliver these patriots into his hands. In +the afternoon we took another boat and went to Geneva in about five +hours, and stopped at Ouchy, Morges, Rolle, Nyon, and Coppet. At Morges +is a fine old castle, in good condition. Nearly opposite Rolle we saw +the hoary head of Mont Blanc, towering above the giant brotherhood of +Alpine heights. We did not see Lake Leman in a storm, and though +certainly beautiful in its adjuncts, not more so than Lake Erie. At +Coppet was the residence of Madame De Staël. + +We reached Geneva in the evening at seven, and went to the Hotel L'Eou. +Here we were delighted to meet again with the Rev. Dr. Murray and Dr. +Chetwood, and also to find the Rev. Mr. Chickering and Rev. Mr. Jacobus, +with his family, and other valued friends. + +The approach to Geneva from the lake is very imposing; but I was less +pleased with the town itself than I expected to be. Its position is very +grand. Its history is every thing, however. The Cathedral Church of St. +Peter is a fine specimen of the Gothic of the eleventh century. The +sounding board is the same under which Calvin preached. + +The population is about forty thousand, including the suburbs, and +thousands of tourists are every year residents for a few days. We had a +pleasant morning at the Museum, where are some good pictures and many +curiosities. In the library are Calvin's letters in MS., forty or fifty +volumes of MS. sermons, &c. This same Calvin and this old town of Geneva +have had much to do with our own blessed country; and we feel the agency +of this man and this town in all our ten thousand joys and comforts. + +I could not forget that here was the home of Merle D'Aubigné, the +historian of the Protestant reformation, and that here, too, is the +residence of the learned Gaussen, the author of Theopneusty, and of the +venerable Cæsar Malan. Calling upon this last-named gentleman, I was +delighted to find that the Evangelical Association of Geneva was in +annual session. This is the great Protestant body with which the +American Evangelical Union is in alliance, and for whose operations our +friend Dr. Baird has awakened so lively an interest. I went to the +church where the meeting was convened, and was introduced to Count +George, a very pious Frenchman of fortune, who resides here and devotes +himself to the cause of the Protestant religion. He is a Baptist, but is +connected with the church which embraces several evangelical +denominations. The count presided with great ability; he is a very +elegant man, about thirty-four, I should imagine. + +I had the pleasure to hear D'Aubigné give a report of his visit to Great +Britain. He spoke for two hours. He is quite the orator, and had entire +command of the audience, who wept and laughed as he proceeded. The +historian is a very noticeable man, and strongly reminded us all of +President Wayland, to whom his resemblance is very striking. + +Dr. Murray made a few remarks on behalf of his brethren, and we were all +invited to a _soirée_ at the assembly-rooms in the evening. Perhaps two +hundred and fifty ladies and gentlemen were present. Several addresses +and prayers were made. I was announced for an address, but came late on +the list; and having no fancy to be translated by a man at my elbow, I +quietly withdrew at the fitting time. I was much pleased with Professor +Gaussen, who is a very accomplished gentleman. He looks about +forty-five, but told me he was very much older. + +The clergy present at this convocation were from various parts of France +and all the Swiss cantons, and I never saw a finer set of men in any +clerical assembly. Pastor Malan is exceedingly venerable in his +appearance. He is about sixty-eight years of age, his hair gray, and +worn long in the neck, with a good deal of curl to it. His gait is +quick, and he has much the manner of the venerable Dr. Beecher. This +patriarch of Geneva is very cheerful, knows every one, and has a word +for every one. He told me that he loved Americans, but that they had +spoiled his habitation by stealing two of his daughters, who, he +explained to me, were married to excellent clergymen in the United +States. + +We met with great kindness in this city from Mr. Delorme, a gentleman +who once resided in New York. He invited us to accompany his family on +an excursion to the summit of the Salève, a mountain in Savoy, which is +three thousand one hundred and fifty feet above the lake. We went in two +carriages, and stopped at a village on the mountain side, where we had +cakes, coffee, and wine. Here, in a sweet little arbor, surrounded with +roses, we gazed at Mont Blanc, and on a near summit could very clearly +trace the profile of Napoleon. He looks "like a warrior taking his +sleep." The illusion surpasses in accuracy of expression any thing that +I know of that is similar; there are chin, nose, eye, and the old cocked +hat, while the eternal vapor over the summit of the peak forms the +feather. + +We looked down in a ravine and saw the Aar with its icy stream. The +carriages went round to meet the party, and the ascent was made. The +mountain seems to hang over Geneva, though several miles off. We were +greatly pleased with a few good houses, in fine positions; but Savoy is +not Switzerland. Here Popery is rampant and pauperism evident. Beggars +beset our carriages, and the people looked squalid. + +[Illustration: Swiss Cottage.] + +I forgot to tell you how much we were pleased with the cottages in +Switzerland; they are quite cheerful looking,--some very fine +affairs,--but many are not very unlike our western log-houses. + +We returned to Geneva at about ten, and found at our friend's house a +most sumptuous repast provided for our entertainment. I never sat down +at a more elegant supper table. Every luxury seemed placed before us, +including the richest wines of the Rhine. + +The Roman salad, a peculiar kind of lettuce, which we saw in France, and +here again, seemed to us all as quite different from our ordinary kinds; +and I have at Genera obtained four or five varieties of the seed for +home cultivation. + +While at this city we procured some good specimens of wooden ware, Swiss +cottages, &c., and the boys bought watches, jewelry, &c., for presents. + +We were all delighted with a little island in the centre of a bridge +which goes across the lake; it was a favorite retreat of Rousseau, and +there is a statue to his memory. + +Calvin's residence is still to be seen, No. 116 Rue des Chanoins. We saw +the place where Servetus was burnt. The place and prospect were too +beautiful for such a foul desecration. But Calvin's virtues were his +own, and the faults he fell into belonged to the influence of the age. +It was much so with those greatest and best of men, the New England +Pilgrim Fathers. I know they had faults, but they were only spots upon +the polished mirror. God reared them up, a rare race of men, for a rare +purpose; and I do not like to hear them abused because they were not +perfect. If Laud had come to Plymouth Rock instead of Brewster, Bonner +instead of Carver, what kind of a community would have been established +and handed down? + +In Geneva, too, we had the pleasure to meet a valued friend, Mr. B., +from Providence, who has been travelling extensively, and gathering up +the treasures of other cities to enrich the one of his birth. + +To-morrow we are off for Paris, and go by diligence to Dijon; thence by +railroad. + + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 47. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We started from Geneva in the diligence for Dijon, a long drag of one +hundred and twenty miles. The weather was oppressively hot, and +certainly the roads could not well be more dusty. We had two very +gentlemanly companions, Swiss, who were going to London to visit the +exhibition. We entered France about four miles on our way, and came to +Ferney, where Voltaire so long resided. We passed Gex, and ascended the +Jura; then to La Vattay. The view from the mountain of the lake and Mont +Blanc, together with the Alpine range, is never to be forgotten by one +who has the good fortune to see it. I feel that I am acquiring new +emotions and gathering up new sources of thought in this journey, and +that I cannot be a trifler and waster away of life in such a world as +that I live in. I find in every place so much to read about, and study +over, and think upon, that I now feel as if life itself would not be +long enough to do all I should like to effect. One thing is certain, +Charley; I cannot be indolent without feeling that, with the motives and +stimulus of this tour pressing upon me, I shall be very guilty. + +The scenery of this journey has set me thinking; and so I have written +rather sentimentally, but truly. + +At St. Laurent we came to the French custom-house, and a pretty thorough +overhauling they made. I believe the fellows hooked some of our +engravings, which they carried out of the room. + +Still up, till we reached Morez, the Jura's greatest elevation. The last +half was travelled in the night; so I cannot give you the line of march. +We got to Dijon about eight in the morning, and only had time to get a +hasty breakfast at the railroad station; but we had quite a look at the +city before entering the cars for Paris. + +Dijon is the capital town of the old Burgundy, and is a fine old place, +with nearly thirty thousand inhabitants. Here is a great show of +churches, and they seem built for all ages. The Cathedral is a +noble-looking edifice. We had no time to see the old ducal palace, which +has so many historical events connected with it. We saw some beautiful +promenades, but only glanced at them. Bossuet was born here, and St. +Bernard only a mile outside the walls, in a castle yet standing. + +The new railroad had just been opened to Paris, and is one hundred and +ninety-six miles and a half of most capital track. We went through +Verrey, Montbard, Nuits, Tonnerre, La Roche, Joigny, Sens, Montereau, +Fontainebleau, Melun, to Paris. Montbard gave birth to Buffon, the +naturalist. Nuits is famous for the vintage of its own name, Romanée, +and other choice wines of Burgundy. Near Tonnerre is the château of +Coligny d'Audelot, brother to the admiral massacred on St. Bartholomew's +night. Sens is famous for its Cathedral, which is apparently very +splendid; and here are the vestments of Thomas à Becket, and the very +altar at which he knelt, all of which I wanted to see. Fontainebleau is +beautifully placed in the midst of a forest. Here is a palace, and at +this place Napoleon bade farewell to the Old Guard, in 1814. This place +is celebrated for its grapes, raised in the vicinity. Melun was known +in Cæsar's time, and in 1520 was taken by Henry V., of England, and held +ten years. We reached Paris on the evening of Saturday, and again +occupied our old quarters at the Hotel Windsor. I went off to my +favorite bathing-house at the Seine, and felt wondrously refreshed after +the heat and dust of more than three hundred miles and two days' +journeying. + +Yours affectionately, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 48. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We have again arrived at this charming city, and hope to pass a few +pleasant days, which will be chiefly devoted to purchases of clothing +and some of the beautiful articles which are so abundant in the shops of +this metropolis. Besides, we have some few places to visit before we +return to England. On Sabbath day we went to the Methodist Chapel, near +the Church of the Madeleine, and heard a capital sermon from Dr. +Ritchie, the president of the Canadian Conference. In the evening I +preached. The congregations were very good, and the preacher of the +chapel seems a very gentlemanly and pleasant man. In the congregation I +had the pleasure to meet with our eloquent countryman and my old +friend, the Rev. James Alexander, D.D., of New York, and I announced +that he would preach on Wednesday evening. We went into the Madeleine +and spent nearly an hour. The house is very splendid; but it does not +appear devotional, or likely to inspire suitable feelings. I prefer the +Gothic pile, or a plainer temple. It is all painting, gilding, flowers, +and form. Here Popery shows her hand, and outdoes every thing that she +dares yet show in New England. The music was exquisite, and the voices +of the boys very sweet. Many of the people seemed in earnest. The +priests appeared to me devoid of interest. We went one morning to the +Pantheon. This noble church was formerly known as St. Genevieve, and was +rebuilt, in 1764, by a lottery under the auspices of Louis XV. The +portico is an imitation of the one at Rome on its namesake, and consists +of Corinthian columns nearly sixty feet high, and five feet in diameter. +The interior form is that of a Greek cross. Every thing here is grand +and majestically simple. Above the centre of the cross rises a dome of +great beauty, with a lantern above. In this building are one hundred and +thirty columns. The church is three hundred and two feet by two hundred +and fifty-five. In this building are the tombs and monuments of some of +the great men of France. Voltaire, Rousseau, Mirabeau, and Marat were +here buried, but were taken up by the Bourbons, at the restoration. La +Grange and Lannes also rest here. Here we saw seven copies of the famous +frescoes of Angelo and Raphael, in the Vatican, and several pieces of +statuary. The vaults extend beneath the church to a great length. I +believe this is the highest spot in Paris. On leaving the place, I +looked again at the dome, which greatly pleased me. It is three hundred +feet above the floor of the church; and the painting, by Gros, is very +fine. I think we have seen nothing of the kind that is so beautiful. It +is principally historical; and among the figures are Clovis, Clotilda, +Charlemagne, St. Louis, Louis XVIII., and the Duchess d'Angoulême, with +the infant Duke of Bourdeaux; and above all these, as in heaven, are +Louis XVI., Marie Antoinette, Louis XVII., and Madame Elizabeth. + +We were all thankful enough to find that the Louvre is at last open. We +walked there, looking with interest at the Tuileries, which I cannot +help admiring, although some think it devoid of architectural merit. Its +wide-spread pavilions of one thousand feet, looming up with +time-darkened walls, always please me. The palace of the Louvre is an +older edifice than the Tuileries; the newer portion was the work of the +reign of Louis XIV. The quadrangle is very fine, and the proportions of +the entire building admirable. Our business was with that part called +the Musée Royal, and here are the paintings and statues which have +given such a renown to Paris. You must recollect, my dear fellow, that +we cannot tell you all about these pictures, for the gallery is nearly +one third of a mile in length, and each side is filled up with canvas, +and the rooms are lofty. There was a time when almost all that +continental Europe thought exquisite in art was to be found here. +Bonaparte levied contributions on all the capitals he conquered, and +here he deposited his ill-gotten spoils. Once were seen in this place +the great masterpieces of Raphael, Guido, Titian, Domenichino, Murillo, +Rubens, Rembrandt, Potter, and a host of other artists who created +beauty; but when right overcame might, these pictures were returned to +their original owners. The catalogue we bought was a volume of five +hundred pages, and was only of statuary; and what could we do but walk, +wonder, and admire? To examine would be a task and pleasure for three +months. The department of statuary is very large; and here we saw +surprising fragments of the Grecian and Roman schools. The paintings by +Rubens here are numerous, but by no means as fine as those we saw at +Antwerp and in the museums of Holland. All the great masters are here, +and their works are finely arranged. We saw some of Claude Lorraine's +that were beautiful; and some pictures that I missed, since I was here +in 1836, have been transferred, I learn, by Louis Philippe, to +Versailles and other palaces. The gallery has been thoroughly painted +and beautified; and I never saw a place more radiant with gilding and +frescoes. The ceilings are very gorgeous. + +We selected a fine day for an excursion to Versailles; and, that we +might have our pleasure consulted as to sight-seeing, we preferred a +private carriage to the railroad. Versailles is about twelve miles from +Paris, and has some twenty-five or thirty thousand inhabitants. Henry +IV. used to resort here for hunting. Louis XIII. had a lodge here for +his comfort when following the chase. Louis XIV. turned the lodge into a +palace, and began operations in 1664. In 1681, he removed with his court +to this place. The Chapel was begun in 1699, and finished in 1710. The +Theatre was inaugurated at the marriage of Louis XVI., in 1770. A new +wing was built by Louis XVIII. Louis Philippe made great additions, and +devoted the palace to the noble purpose of a national depot of all that +is glorious in the history of France. What Louis Philippe did here you +may imagine, when I tell you that on the restoration and improvement of +Versailles he expended fifteen millions of francs. Why, Charley, the +stables are like mansions, and fine ones, too. The grand court is three +hundred and eighty feet wide, and the Place d'Armes, which leads to it, +is eight hundred feet wide. The iron railings which divide these are +very richly gilt. On either side the court are ranges of buildings +intended for the ministers of the king; and here are sixteen colossal +marble statues, which I well remember, at the Pont de la Concorde, in +Paris. They are great names of old and modern renown. In the centre of +the court is a colossal equestrian statue of Louis XIV. Now comes +another court devoted to royalty; and north and south are wings and +pavilions, one built by Louis XV., and the other by Louis Philippe. Next +we see the Cour de Marbre, around which is the old palace of Louis +XIII., crowned with balustrades, vases, trophies, and statues. South of +the Cour Royale is a small court called Cour des Princes, and divides +the wing built by Louis XVIII. from the main body of the southern wing. +The Grand Commun is a vast square edifice, enclosing a court. It has one +thousand rooms; and when Louis XIV. lived here, three thousand people +lodged: in this building. The chapel is exceedingly beautiful. It is in +Corinthian style, and is one hundred and forty-eight feet by +seventy-five, and ninety feet high. The front of the palace is +magnificent in the highest degree. "It presents a large projecting mass +of building, with two immense wings, and consists of a ground floor, +first floor of the Ionic style, and attic. The wings exceed five hundred +feet in length. The central front is three hundred and twenty feet +long, and each of its retiring sides two hundred and sixty feet. The +number of windows and doors _of this front_ are three hundred and +seventy-five." To describe the paintings and statuary would require a +volume. Let me say that here on the walls is all the history of France +that conduces to her glory. Every battle by land or sea, that she ever +won, is here; but not an allusion to her defeats. I looked hard for +Agincourt and Cressy; to say nothing of later conflicts, but they were +not to be seen. Some of these pictures have great merit, while others +are coarsely designed and executed. The historical series begins with +the Baptism of Clovis, in 495, and comes down to the present period, +with the illustration of about eleven hundred subjects. Then there are +about one hundred views of royal palaces, and series as follows: +Portraits of the kings of France, of French admirals, of constables of +France, and of marshals of France, to the number of some two hundred and +fifty; of French warriors, of personages who became celebrated in +different ways, which amount to nearly eighteen hundred; and here we +found several Americans. We noticed the likeness of Mr. Webster, by +Healy; but the canvas is too small, and the picture has faded. It is not +equal to the noble painting by Harding, which we saw just before we left +home. These last portraits afforded us a great treat; and here we saw +fine likenesses of the great ones of the earth. All the old pictures +have dates of death, and many of birth. The sculpture gallery is very +rich. There are more than six hundred figures, some of them exceedingly +expressive and beautiful. I should think that more than two hundred and +fifty of the historical paintings relate to events and persons connected +with the power of Napoleon. + +A very conspicuous feature is the series illustrating the conquest of +Algiers. These are four in number, and are immense as to size--I should +think thirty or forty feet in length. They are by Horace Vernet, and are +very effective. The apartments of the palace are perfectly regal. They +quite come up to one's preconceived ideas of the days of Louis le Grand. +I looked with interest at the door through which Marie Antoinette made +her escape, and whence she was dragged by the mob. The chamber of Louis +XIV. is just as it was in his time. Here the grand monarch died upon +that bed. There is the balustrade which fenced off the bed of majesty. +The ceiling of this room has the noblest painting in France. It is Jove +launching his bolts against the Titans, and was done by Paul Veronese. +Napoleon brought it from Venice. There seemed no end to the apartments. +We saw those of Madame Maintenon, the royal confessional, and the +dining-room of Louis XIV., which was the cabinet of Louis XVI. In this +room Louis XIV. entertained Molière when he had been ill treated or +neglected by his ministers and courtiers. "I am told that the officers +of my household do not find that you were made to eat with them. Sit +down at this table, and let them serve us up breakfast." This was his +language to the great poet, when he had called him to his presence. The +king then helped him to a fowl's wing, and treated him in the most +gracious manner. He knew the worth of genius. The king could make a +marshal, but he could not make a poet. All the innumerable rooms have +beautiful paintings and works of art. One room, called the Saloon of the +Crusades, was delightfully interesting; and the great pictures of that +apartment did much to impress the events of the holy wars upon our +minds. + +George was in ecstasies with the _souvenirs_ of his idol the emperor; +and as we shall leave him for five or six months in Paris, I expect +that, in addition to the vast amount of knowledge which he really +possesses of the history of Napoleon, he will return home posted up with +all the _on dits_ of the worshippers of the emperor. + +The Theatre is very fine. It is quite large, and would be admired in any +capital. It was built by Louis XV., at the instance of Madame Pompadour. +It was Used by Louis Philippe, and we saw his seat. + +The gardens are world renowned; so we _must_ admire them. They did not +quite come up to my notions. The fountains, statuary, ponds, +orange-trees, are all very grand; but I cannot say that I was as pleased +as the boys were. Perhaps I was weary; I know I was anxious. I had an +old and valued friend living in Versailles, and was unable to ascertain +her residence. + +We went to the Grand and Petit Trianon. The great Trianon is a palace +with one story, and having two wings. The little Trianon has two +stories. Here royalty has loved to loiter when tired of the splendors of +the stupendous palace close by. Here are some exquisite paintings, +brought by Louis Philippe from the Louvre. + +We repaired to a good _café_ close by the palace, had a satisfactory +dinner with Mr. Hodgson and his family, and then took our carriage for +Paris. + +Our route to Versailles was through Passy, where our Dr. Franklin lived +in 1788, at No. 40 Rue Bass. Beranger resides in this village. It seems +a favorite resort for genius; for here have resided the Chancellor +D'Aguesseau, Boileau, Molière, and Condorcet. + +We passed through Sèvres, where the beautiful china is manufactured, and +drove through the Park of St. Cloud, the palace being in sight. + +On our return, we drove leisurely through the Bois de Boulogne. These +woods afford a fine opportunity to the Parisians for exercise, either on +horseback or in carriages, and it is to Paris what Hyde Park is to +London and the avenues are to New York, and much pleasanter than either. +Here have been fought most of the duels which, in other days, have been +so numerous in Paris, but which, I am glad to say, are getting into +disrepute. The boys will write you before we leave Paris. + +Yours always, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 49. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Our stay here at our present visit will be several days longer than we +expected. We have to get clothing and various articles which can be +obtained here to more advantage than in England or at home. We have been +to some large jewelry establishments and made selections of presents for +our absent but remembered friends. One morning we spent very pleasantly +at a celebrated depot of glass manufactures. The display was very large, +and also brilliant, and we made some pretty selections. The taste of the +French is very great, and a large part of this population must live by +furnishing the rest of the world with mere matters of _bijouterie_. + +We have had the pleasure to meet several of the doctor's acquaintances +from America; and among others whom we have often met have been Rev. Dr. +Alexander, Rev. Dr. Ritchie, Hon. H.J. Raymond, Mr. G.P. Putnam, Mr. +Bunting, Mr. Herring, Mr. Howard, &c. I have been much gratified in +getting acquainted with Mr. Raymond, whom I have met several times. He +is quite a young-looking man for one who holds his important position of +speaker of the New York House of Assembly. I should not think him to be +more than twenty-six or twenty-seven, though perhaps he is thirty. Mr. +Putnam is the author of my favorite book, "The World's Progress,"--the +book of dates,--and one which I recommend you, Charley, always to keep +on your table, within reach, for reference. + +If I live to return home, I have much to do that never before appeared +to me of so great importance. I want to become thoroughly conversant +with English and French history; for, in a certain sense, these +countries embody the history of the world. Not to know what happened +before we were born, is always to be children; and if my journey has +done me no other good, it has very clearly shown me how little I know, +and how very much I ought to understand, and must, if I would take my +place among intelligent, well-educated men. I am sure, too, that I have +acquired on this journey a desire to make improvement. Every where I +find the records of intellect and genius, and I cannot, for very shame, +be willing to go through life and enjoy the means of improvement, +without deriving profit. We have met with very kind attentions from Mr. +Hector Bossange, the great bookseller, who invited us to dinner. He is a +gentleman of great activity, and seems always engaged; and yet I have +noticed that such persons seem to have time for every one and every +thing. I have noticed this at home, as well as abroad. Some of these men +who have so much to do, and so many persons to see and be polite to, +must work very hard at times, or else they understand the way to get +through business in a patent method. These busy men seem to have read +every thing; and even in new books they keep up with the times. They +must do it, I guess, by remembering our old copy, that "spare minutes +are the golden sands of life." + +George is going to stay here for four or five months, and the doctor is +busy in finding him a suitable home and getting him an outfit. + +You would perhaps like to hear a little about the Hospital des +Invalides, where the old soldiers of France bring up when past labor. It +is a vast building, and covers sixteen acres, which, however, enclose +fifteen various courts. It is governed and managed by the senior marshal +of France, a lieutenant general, commandant of the hotel, a colonel +major, three adjutant majors, three sub-adjutant majors, one almoner, +two chaplains, one apothecary and ten assistants, twenty-six sisters of +charity, and two hundred and sixty servants. There are about one hundred +and seventy officers, and about three thousand fire hundred invalids in +all. This is a truly magnificent building, both architecturally +considered and in its interior arrangements. The council chamber is very +fine, and here are some admirable portraits and the best statue of +Napoleon that is extant. The dome is very grand, but is at present +invisible, on account of the alterations going on to complete the tomb +of Napoleon. This will be the grandest tomb, probably, in the world. The +sarcophagus is to rest on a platform, to which the access is by steps of +green marble. + +[Illustration: Sarcophagus at Napoleon's Tomb, and Key] + +Here is a good library and some MSS. of the two prime ministers, Sully +and Colbert; a good picture of Napoleon and Louis Philippe; the cannon +ball which killed Marshal Turenne, and his equestrian statue in gold and +silver. + +My favorite stroll here is in the Garden of the Tuileries. I am never +weary of this place. Here are the finest flowers, the best walks, the +gayest company, the prettiest children, and the densest shade, if you +please to go into it, in Paris. Then, too, there are groups of statuary, +and fountains with lofty jet, and proud swans in the reservoirs. I +would like to have you walking in that thick forest growth; there is no +underbrush; I can see from one side to the other. After a long walk, you +come to the noble portals, guarded by lions couchant, and just beyond is +the spot where Louis XVI. was guillotined. I do not believe there is a +nobler view in Europe than now opens to the spectator. There before me +is the Obelisk of Luxor, which was brought from Egypt, and now stands in +the Place de la Concorde, its history, its removal, its present +position, all serve to delight me. In itself it is a noble object, and +my eye ever rests on it with pleasure. + +Just think, Charley, that you are at my side: turn round, and look at +the gardens we have left. There, see the long, low Tuileries, the palace +of the Bourbons, the home of Napoleon, the residence of the citizen +king, and now the Palace National. Off to the right is the Seine and its +long line of quays; here is the bridge; and just across it is the +Chamber of the Assembly, with twelve Corinthian columns, I like this +building exceedingly. To our left is a long, stately range, known as the +Rue Rivoli, in which we reside; it has an arched arcade in front; for +foot passengers, and some hundreds of columns to support and adorn it. +At this end of it are public offices. Now turn and look at our left; and +see, a street cuts through this noble row, and at its end you see the +pride of the city, the Madeleine. There it is, all white, and its +stately columns tell of Greece. Now, if you turn your back upon the +Tuileries, you will gaze upon the open space of the Champs Elysées, and +look down along through that splendid avenue, and there see the finest +thing in France--Bonaparte's triumphal arch. One word about this arch. +It is the work of the emperor, who ordered its erection in 1806, when +the foundation was laid. In 1814 it was suspended, but in 1823 it was +resumed in honor of the Duke d'Angoulême's victories in Spain. In 1830 +its original intention was adopted, and in 1836 it was completed, and +its cost was nearly eleven millions of francs. It is a vast arch, ninety +feet high and forty-five feet wide, with entablature and attic. Its +total height is one hundred and fifty-two feet, breadth one hundred and +thirty-seven feet, depth sixty-eight feet. On the fronts are colossal +groups, in which the figures are eighteen feet. All these are +historical, and tell of the great man in his fields of glory. You ascend +this wonderful work of art by two hundred and sixty steps, and get the +best view of Paris. Close by is the Hippodrome, of which some of us have +told you, I suppose, during our last visit. + +At less than a mile from this place is the Chapel of St. Ferdinand, +built on the spot where the Duke of Orleans died, by a fall from his +carriage, in 1842. It is a small building of stone, fifty feet long, and +is of Gothic style. Here are many interesting objects--the marble group +descriptive of the dying prince, and at his head an angel in +supplication; this angel was the sculpture of his sister, the Princess +Marie. The painted windows are exquisite representations of the patron +saints of the royal family. Behind the altar is the room in which the +duke died, now used as the sacristy of the chapel. Here, too, is a +picture of the death bed. I am glad that I saw this, as the rest of the +party were not able to be there. + +The great National Library is in the Rue Vivienne. The building is a +dark-looking affair, five hundred and forty feet long and one hundred +and thirty feet wide. Inside is a court three hundred feet by ninety, +and that is flanked with buildings. The library is in five sections: +first, manuscripts; second, printed books; third, engravings; fourth; +medals, &c.; fifth, marbles. Perhaps the best collection of early +printing that Europe can show is in this place. You will be surprised +when I tell you that there are here one million five hundred thousand +works. I cannot attempt to tell you the curiosities that are to be seen +here--gems, cameos, antiques, swords, armors, models, portraits, busts; +and then, as for autographs, why, a collector could not fail to break +the tenth commandment when he looked at the letters of this collection +in glass cases. The engravings alone are a study for months. + +I have to see my tailor, Mr. Woodman, who is a capital one; and then I +must go to Forr, the boot-maker, of whom let me tell you a story. The +doctor went to be measured, when we first arrived, and the man told him +it was not necessary, as he had his measure. "How so?" he inquired. +"Why, sir," replied the man, "I remember you fifteen years ago, at the +Hotel Windsor;" and taking down his book, showed him his name, number of +his room, &c. This I think a pretty considerable proof of memory, and +equal to what we are told of some of our American landlords, who are +said never to forget a face. + +These engagements discharged, and I am ready to pack up. We all feel sad +at leaving George, who has been a kind and amiable companion; but we +hope soon to see him again. + +Let me tell you that we are to have a new teacher. Dr. C. has engaged M. +Oudin, a graduate of the University of Paris, to return with us. This +gentleman is married; and we are all pleased with him and expect, of +course, to profit under his instructions. + +M. Oudin has taken us to see a very curious manufactory of fruits, +fishes, &c. They certainly are lifelike. Then, too, there is a branch +of this establishment devoted to the preparation of medical +representations of disease, and the skill exhibited is very great. Our +next letter will, I fancy, be from Old England. I feel sad at leaving +France, for I do like her capital; and then I cannot help a fear that +she has dark days not very far off. She talks of liberty at all her +corners, but she seems to have none in her conduct of the daily press. +There are too many soldiers here to please an American. At home we have +all the blessings of government, and do not see the machinery. We have +no soldiers to keep us moving along. I shall always think with pleasure +of our month in this city; and if I ever come again, I have work chalked +out for three months, at least. + +Yours affectionately, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 50. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We had a pleasant time from Paris to Calais; and here we determined to +pass a day, and look at a city which has been so celebrated both in the +history of France and England. We put up at Quillac's. The population is +about thirteen thousand. The town is strongly fortified, and has very +few external attractions. The gate built by Richelieu in 1685, and +delineated by Hogarth, still stands. You know that England held this +town from 1347 to 1558; and, as a result, you can find several specimens +of English Tudor architecture, especially the Hotel de Guise. The walks +upon the fortifications are fine, and afford commanding views of the +cliffs of the south coast of England. The place generally has some three +or four thousand English, many of whom are refugees on account of debt. +At eleven at night we went on board a French steamer for Dover; and the +_instant_ that she got outside the pier, she jumped like a mad thing. O, +Charley, that was a horrid night! We were all sick, very sick indeed. It +took us about three hours to get over, and we were thankful to land and +take refuge for three or four hours in the quiet of our bedrooms. At +eight we took the cars for London, and were at the Golden Cross, quietly +settled down in our old quarters, by twelve o'clock. I ought to tell you +that we hurried over in order to be here at the great entertainment +which Mr. George Peabody gives to his excellency Abbott Lawrence and his +lady, on the evening of the 4th of July. We were invited, and felt +anxious to be there; as, in addition to the other notable characters, +"the duke" was to be present. All that day the subject of the evening +was the great topic with Americans; and as more than nine hundred +acceptances were received to invitations issued, it was expected that +the party would be interesting, and that many, who failed to obtain +tickets, would be disappointed. The entertainment was given at Almack's, +Willis's Room, St. James's, and upon a scale of great magnificence. It +consisted of a concert at half past nine, a ball at eleven, and supper +at one. The idea of celebrating our national independence in London, +under the peculiar circumstances which London presents at this moment, +was a happy one; and though some wise men doubted the wisdom of the +measure, yet the result proved the prudence and practical good sense of +its originator; and perhaps few men possess more of this admirable +quality than Mr. Peabody. The rooms at Almack's are very spacious, so +that there was ample space for the one thousand who proved to be +present. At one end of the room were seen the portraits of the queen and +Washington, surrounded by the flags of England and the United States; +and around were placed busts of her majesty, Washington, Prince Albert, +Franklin, Webster, and other celebrated men of both countries. Each lady +was presented, on her entrance, with a fine bouquet. At half past nine +the seats for the concert were entirely filled. The _programme de +concert_ was as follows:-- + + CONDUCTOR, SIGNOR ALARY. + + PARTE PRIMA. + + GLEE, Messrs. Lee, Geuge, Hill, Smith, and Howe. + + DUO, "Al perigli." {Signor Gardoni, } + {Signor F. Lablache,} _Donizetti_. + + SOLO, Violin. Signor Sivori, _Sivori_. + + MELODIE, "Jusqu'a toi." Signor Gardoni _Schubert_. + + ARIA, "Non più audrai." Signor Lablache, _Mozart_. + + ROMANCE, "Ah, mon fils." Miss C. Hayes, _Meyerbeer_. + + DUO, "Ah t inebria nell' {Ma'mselle Cruvelli,} + amplesso." {Signor Gardoni, } _Verdi_. + + + PARTE SECUNDA. + + TRIO, "Qual volutta." {Miss Hayes, } + {Signor Gardoni, } + {Signor Lablache,} _Verdi_. + + ARIA, "Nel dolce incanto." Mademoiselle Cruveli _De Beriot_. + + SOLO, Violin. Signor Sivori, _Sivori_. + + SERENADE, "Qual Suon." {Miss C. Hayes, } + {Signor Gardoni,} _Alary_. + + DUO, "Un Segreta." {Signor Lablache,} + {F. Lablache,} _Rossini_. + + TRIO, "Zitti, Zitti." {Miss C. Hayes, } + {Signor Gardoni, } + {Signor Lablache,} _Rossini_. + + PIANO FORTE, Signor Alary. + +The glees and madrigals were by the first-named artists; and the pieces +were, "Spring's Delight," "Come, let us join the Roundelay," "Foresters +sound the cheerful Horn," and "The Winds whistle cold." + +The band for the ball was Coote & Tinney's. The concert was very fine. I +was most pleased with Miss Hayes,--and next with Lablache, whose voice +is the finest I ever heard. The duke came just at the close of the +concert, as the seats were being removed for the dancing. Mr. Peabody +met him in the reception-room, and led him to the upper end of the +ball-room, where he was cordially greeted by Mr. and Mrs. Lawrence. The +band struck up, "See, the conquering hero comes," and I really felt that +such a reception to such a man, and under such circumstances, was +something for an American boy to see; and, if I live thirty or forty +years, it will be something to tell about. There were but few +comparatively who danced. The company were in groups, in the different +rooms, taking refreshments. At one, supper was announced on the ground +floor of the house; and here the press was felt to be greater than up +stairs. The tables were most gorgeously laid out with every delicacy +that unlimited outlay of expense could secure. Perhaps you would like to +know some of the company who were present, belonging to England, and who +certainly were present for the first time to celebrate the anniversary +of American independence. There were the Duke of Wellington, Marquises +of Ely and Clanricarde, Lord Glenelg, Lord Charles Manners, Lord Charles +Russell, Lord Mayor of London and Lady Mayoress, Viscount Canning, Lord +and Lady Dormer, Lord Hill, Lord Stuart, Baron and Lady Alderson, the +Chancellor of the Exchequer, and Lady Mary Wood; Mr. Justice and Lady +Coleridge, the Governor of the Bank of England, Joseph Hume, M.P., and +family, Lady Morgan, Miss Burdett Coutts, Admiral Watkins, the Countess +of Eglinton, Countess Powlett, Lady Talbot Mala hide, and a very long +_et cetera_. Mr. Peabody could not have served his country better than +by affording an opportunity for the great and distinguished of England +to meet a large party of his countrymen on an occasion dear to +Americans, and especially dear when they are far away from their +country, and feel that, under the broad flag of the stars and stripes +they are every where as safe as if they were in New York or Boston. It +was very clear that hostile feeling had ceased, and that the great +Anglo-Saxon family can now meet any where and display the brotherhood +which they ought ever to feel. Such a meeting could not have taken place +twenty years ago; and perhaps this beautiful demonstration would never +have been afforded, if the thought had not presented itself to our host, +who had the means to carry out the idea with a nobleness that did honor +to himself and his country. We left the rooms on a bright, starlight +morning, just as day was opening her eye, and were soon comfortably +housed at our pleasant home. I write in haste, for we have much to do +before we leave London. + +Yours affectionately, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 51. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We have had one of the most agreeable days that I have spent in England. +We received a kind invitation from his excellency Baron Vanderweyer, the +Belgian minister, to attend a party given by his lady to the young +nobility. The invitations were for five o'clock. We found the finest +collection of children and young people, from about four years old up to +sixteen, that I ever saw gathered together. I should think there were +two hundred and fifty. More beautiful children cannot probably be found; +and they were dressed in fine taste, and some very richly. One little +fellow, about six years old, was, I think, the noblest-looking boy my +eyes ever rested upon. Dr. C. inquired of two or three persons whom he +knew, who the lad was; and just then an elegant and fashionable-looking +lady expressed how much she felt flattered by the kind things said of +the little fellow, and told him that it was her son, the eldest son of +the Marquis of O----d, and then called him out of the dance, and +introduced the little Lord Ossory to him. Among the illustrious +juveniles was the future Duke of Wellington, and grandson of the Iron +Duke. He is now about four or five years old. I think the sight was one +of the prettiest I ever had the pleasure to witness. A few of the +parents and older friends of the children were present; and in the +company was Mr. Bates, whose kindness to us has been very great. + +One evening this week Dr. Choules preached at Craven Chapel, near Regent +Street, where he had been requested to speak about America, and he took +up Education--the voluntary principle--and Slavery. On the last topic he +gave some truths that were probably very unpalatable. He stated that the +good people here knew next to nothing of the subject; that its treatment +amongst us could not be suffered by strangers; and that all interference +with it by this nation was as impolitic, and in as bad taste, as it +would be for an American to visit England and commence a crusade against +the expenditures of the royal household, as a crying sin, while there +was misery among the masses in many parts of the kingdom. He spoke of +the extreme prejudice which he had met upon the subject, and the +rudeness's into which he had found men fall, who seemed to have +forgotten every courtesy of life. He gave them many facts, which, though +perfectly correct, yet he said he supposed would be interpreted as a +special plea on behalf of slavery--although nothing could be more +untrue. The prejudice existing here is amusing. They seem to take it for +granted that every American raises cotton, sugar, and tobacco, and, +therefore, is a slaveholder. However, I find most persons of candor +ready to acknowledge that it is questionable whether any good can +possibly result from sending English agents to agitate the slavery +question in the United States. + +There are a great many things which we have seen in London that are less +worthy of note than those we have written you about, and yet in +themselves are very useful and interesting; and we hope the remembrance +of them will be of service to us hereafter. I have been much struck with +the prevalence of the same names in the streets as those which are so +familiar to me on our signs and boards. We have most clearly a common +origin, and there are no two nations in the world between whom there is +of necessity so much sympathy on all great questions. + +We have visited the exhibition several times since our return, with +fresh pleasure on every occasion. In point of show and splendor, we are +doing little in competition with the English, French and Belgian +exhibitors; but we have a wonderful deal here that proves Jonathan to be +a smart chap at invention, and no slouch at labor-saving operations. We +cannot afford to spend the labor of freemen, who own their houses and +farms and gardens, upon single pieces of furniture that would take six +months to complete. Our time is too valuable for this. The pauper labor +of Europe will, I hope, long continue to be cheaper, than the toil of +American mechanics. I do not want to see a man working for thirty cents +a day. The people of England must laugh in their sleeves when they see +every steamer bringing out our specie from America, and when they see us +sacrificing our true interests to aid the destructive policy of free +trade. I have never thought so much about the tariff as since I have +been here, and I am now convinced that we ought to give suitable +encouragement to all kinds of manufactures in our country, and so afford +a regular market for the products of the agriculturist. The English +agents that flood our country are placing the land under a constant +drain; and our specie must go abroad, instead of circulating at home. It +is only in times of great scarcity that England will want much of our +wheat or corn; and the English very freely avow that they hope to be +able, ere long, to get their cotton from the East. It seems to me that +our Southern States will need their New England constant market, and +that our true policy is to take care of ourselves. Certainly there is a +great variety of opinion here about free trade, and I hear gentlemen +debate strongly against it. The reciprocity of England is a queer thing. +All this yarn, Charley, grows naturally out of my starting-point about +the exhibition. + +We go to-night to Bristol, to visit our kind friends once more; thence +we run into South Wales, and afterwards set our faces homeward. + +Yours, &c., + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 52. + + +BRISTOL + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We have been here with the doctor's friends for several days, and had a +most delightful time. Nothing can be more kind than their attentions to +us; and the young men--I wish you knew them--have been constantly doing +every thing in their power to make our visit here agreeable. + +We were glad to find Mr. W---- recovering from his accident; and as the +family were at Western Super Mare, a watering-place about seven miles +off, for his health, we went and passed a couple of days with them. This +place is on the banks of the Bristol Channel; the air is thought to be +the finest on the western coast of England, and is, we thought, very +much like our Newport air. When the tide is in the scenery is pretty, +and the Welsh hills; at sunset are beautiful. Off in the Bristol Channel +are two islands, called the Flat and Steep Holmes. + +The houses here are neat, and the best are lodging-houses. Some of the +rows are very pretty, and are sufficiently cosy to accommodate small +families. + +The true way to enjoy the seaside is to have your own snug quarters. +Here the people are wise enough to build close to the sea, and rows of +houses are found all round the bay. + +We had a charming ride to a lofty hill, about two miles off, and the +prospect was very fine. + +Here, as on the continent, we found large numbers of donkeys, with +drivers, and ladies use them in their little excursions; and many of +them are attached to Bath chairs, a small gig, and a very comfortable +conveyance, too, as we proved. The vehicle is made for one person. + +I cannot say much for the bathing, which is greatly admired here, but +was far too muddy for our taste, after an acquaintance with the noble +beach at home. + +The museum of the Baptist College in Bristol is very fine, and the +library is large and one of great value. The collection of Bibles is the +best in the kingdom, and here is the only copy of Tindal's New +Testament. The miniature of Oliver Cromwell, by Cooper, is valuable, and +has been often engraved. + +We have several times attended worship at a very beautiful Gothic chapel +at Bristol, called Highbury Chapel. It is a perfect gem, built in the +Gothic style of the fifteenth century. The edifice is of stone, the +roof and wood-work of oak, the pulpit freestone, and over it is a fine +painted window. It is one of the prettiest churches we have seen in +England; and what gives great interest to the building is the fact that +it stands upon the spot where five martyrs were burnt, in the days of +Popery, when Queen Mary was on the throne. This burning of Protestants +only happens when Catholics have power; they do not advocate the measure +in America, although their boast is that their system knows no change. +Inquisitions and martyrs' fires are the adult growth of Popery. If I +wanted to know how liberal institutions worked, I would look at them +where they were established and flourished without hinderance; and if I +wanted to know what Popery is, I would go and look at it in its proper +territories--Spain, Italy, and Austria. There Popery is intolerant. In +France the wings of Romanism are clipped; and if the patronage of the +state were withdrawn, as very likely it may before long, the crumbling +edifice would fall. + +The Rev. Mr. Thomas, the pastor of Highbury Chapel, is a man of superior +intellect, and we heard a very fine sermon from him. + +I never was in a place where there are so many local charities as I find +at Bristol. Every ailment of man seems here to be provided with its +needed cure; and as for orphan asylums and refuges for the aged, blind, +strangers, &c., they are every where to be found. The Infirmary is a +noble institution, and always has two hundred patients in the wards; two +thousand were received last year, and eight thousand out-door cases +received treatment. A refuge for the houseless poor, opened in winter at +eight o'clock, and supported by subscription, has been very useful. I +think there are at least thirty different almshouses for the aged and +indigent of both sexes; and some of these places are as neat as any +thing can be, as to their accommodation. + +We like Bristol--its fine old houses, its streets, that tell so plainly +of other days, its beautiful environs, and its generous citizens. I wish +you could see the prospect from the drawing-room window at a house where +we have often visited, and always with pleasure. The house stands on a +very high hill; the drawing-room has a large bay window, and outside a +balcony. You look down into a charming garden, with fine trees and +fountains,--the ground being on a great declivity, I should think a +slope of fifty degrees,--and then from the balcony you have the entire +city laid out before you, down, down in the valley; while before you, +and on either hand, stretch away the hills which adorn this noble city. +The towers and steeples of the glorious old churches make the prospect, +of a fine, clear summer evening, one never to be forgotten. Go where I +may, that room, and the kind faces of those who meet in it will often +rise in memory. + +I have never had my feelings so enlisted by strangers as at Bristol; and +we all feel quite at home here. + +We are to go off to-morrow on an excursion to Monmouthshire, and see +Chepstow, Tintern Abbey, and Ragland Castle, and expect that this last +of our wanderings will be very gratifying. + +I have not told you how much we have enjoyed the fruit in England and on +the continent. Cherries and strawberries have been daily on our tables, +and of the best kinds. I do not think we ever enjoyed a fruit season so +much as this summer. In this humid climate the strawberry grows to an +immense size; and the gooseberry, which is here in high favor, is a far +finer fruit than with us. + +Yours affectionately, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 53. + + +BRISTOL. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Let me tell you of a charming trip which we have had this week to +Chepstow Castle and its neighborhood. We have told you all about the +beautiful scenery of Clifton, and the Hot Wells at this place, and the +fine old rooks. Well, now we took passage in a little steamer, and went +down the Avon between these lofty rocks, and had a new and enlarged view +of this wondrous formation. The boat was well filled with tourists, as +this is a fashionable trip. The Avon for four miles is quite Rhenish in +its aspect; and one or two old castled towers on its crags afford a sort +of reminiscence of what we lately saw on the river of rivers. + +We soon got out of the Avon into King Road, and there met the tide +setting strongly from the Severn--a large river, which divides +Monmouthshire from Gloucestershire. We then stretched across the +estuary, and were in the Wye--one of the most romantic rivers in the +country, the scenery of which will occupy much of this letter. + +After going up the river a little way, we saw a town upon the left bank +and a noble castle. This is Chepstow. It is finely ensconced in a +hollow. The town is irregular, and depends for its prosperity on its +commerce. The castle is really a noble ruin and crowns a high bluff +which rises from the river. I do not know how any one can ask for a +lovelier landscape than is opened to the view off the bridge which spans +the river. + +The castle was built by a relation of William the Conqueror. Its style +is Norman, with more modern additions. The tide rises here to an +elevation of from fifty to sixty feet. This is owing to rooks which +stretch into the Severn near the mouth of the Wye, and, by hindering the +tide, turn it into this small river. + +On landing, we engaged a carriage and pair of horses for the excursion, +and were soon off. We stopped for lunch at St. Arvan's, a village one +mile off, and a beautiful place it is--a perfect gem of a country +street. But the glorious scenery of the region calls off attention from +the modest hamlet. How I should like, as in my boyish days, to make +head-quarters here for a week, and then strike out for daily +explorations. + +We passed by the fine mansion at Piercefield, and devoted our time to +the glorious points of natural scenery on the banks of this most +charming stream--for Americans can hardly call it a river. We walked now +about two miles through an oak wood, in which is a sprinkling of ash and +elm, till we came to the very edge of a cliff called the "Lover's Leap." +It overhangs an awful abyss, the depth of which is softened down by the +woods which cover the neighboring rooks. A little off from this we came +to the famous Wynd Cliff. Its summit is fringed with wood, and covers +its declivities down to the river. To describe the scenery, my dear boy, +from this spot, is quite beyond my ability. I wish that Sir Walter Scott +had attempted it, and made this region the scene of one of his +beautiful creations. From this spot you see all the course of the Wye, +with its numerous sinuosities--in one place cutting out a few acres into +a horse-shoe peninsula. As the eye follows down the river, you gaze on +perpendicular, rocky cliffs, and can hardly persuade yourself that you +do not look at the immense fortifications of a town. But that peaceful +little peninsula at my feet; it is called Llanicut. Such a farm! such +elms! all forming a landscape unrivalled. But look beyond the Wye, and, +just away there, is the noble Severn. Ay, that is a river. There it +rolls and foams down through the rich county of Gloucestershire, and +empties into the Bristol Channel. Then away, beyond to the right are the +bold, swelling hills of Somersetshire. I cannot but wish that Claude had +seen the Wye and Severn; the noblest of his pictures would have been +illustrative of this region. + +When we had sufficiently delighted ourselves with the far-spread scene, +we descended by a winding path through the woods and down the almost +perpendicular rock. The road was a very zigzag. We came down three +hundred and sixty steps, and, passing a rustic bridge, entered a moss +cottage, the small windows of painted glass, the table the base of a +mighty oak, sawn off and polished. The walls are lined with moss. Here +we got refreshments, and talked of those who had been here with us on +former visits--some in America, others farther off; and yet perhaps +not; for we know not how, or where, some of our best friends exist; but +we know and feel that they do greatly live. + +In approaching Tintern, we passed the iron works, which at night throw a +solemn glow over the entire village. The cottages around are very humble +residences. The inn is a small but cosy affair, and is not destitute of +much real comfort. There is the abbey at the water side, and opposite +the rocky hill bank and hanging wood. The access to the abbey is poor, +but this is quite forgotten as you enter this glorious sanctuary of +other days. There are few ancient edifices in Great Britain, now in +ruins, which attract so much attention from the curious traveller as +Tintern Abbey, on the Wye. + +The beauty of the river is proverbial, yet has never been adequately +described; but the best idea of its diversified charms may be gathered +from "Gilpin's Picturesque Scenery and Observations upon the Wye." + +Tintern was a Cistercian abbey, and was founded in 1131, by Walter de +Clare, and dedicated to St. Mary on its completion in 1287. The dress of +the Cistercians was a white cassock, with a narrow scapulary, and over +that a black gown, when they went abroad, but a white one when they went +to church. They were called white monks, from the color of their habit. + +The dimensions of this church are as follows: length, two hundred and +twenty-eight feet, and the transept one hundred and fifty feet long; +breadth of the aisles, each eighteen feet. There are in the sides ten +arches; between each column fifteen feet, which is the span of the +arches. + +The interior of this monastery presents the best specimen of Gothic +architecture in England. The east window is a most magnificent affair, +sixty-four feet high, and calls forth universal admiration. The very +insignificant doorway was, no question, intended by the architect to +form a strong contrast with the elevation of the roof. The abbey is +cruciform; its ruins are perfect as to the grand outline; and I am sure +we should like to pass the entire day within this venerable fane. The +walls of the tower are seventy-two feet high, and covered with ivy, +moss, and lichens, but show no indications of decay. + +Very few Americans visit this region; but I think that they can see +nothing in England at all comparable to this ruin. + +Among the relics that are to be seen here is the effigy of a knight in +chain mail, the remains of a virgin and child, and the head of a shaven +friar. Here, too, are several monkish tombstones. + +We were obliged to resume our places in the carriage, and ride some +twelve miles, in order to visit the finest baronial ruins in the +kingdom. We reached the quiet little village of Ragland, and, putting +up our horses, gave orders for dinner, and then repaired to the castle, +which we found near by, crowning a slight eminence with its stately +towers. We approached through a grove of truly venerable oaks and elms, +and all at once we were at the warder's gate; and entering into the +terrace, formerly the eastern court, a most splendid vision burst upon +our sight. Here are three pentagonal towers, with machicolated +battlements, and showing all the marks of war. This is the most perfect +part of the ruin, and seems likely to stand for ages. The ivy clusters +over the towers most gracefully. Off to the left, insulated by a moat, +stands the remains of a tower, once the citadel. We advance through the +Gothic portal into the second court, and here are shafts and arches, and +grooves through which the portcullis used to present itself to the +besiegers. Next is the paved court, where once were the men at arms with +iron tread; now a velvet lawn is seen, and many a vigorous tree is +spreading its roots. Here we get a fine view of the majestic window of +the hall of state. Through an arch is the way to the kitchen. The +fireplace has a span of thirteen feet, and is made of two stones. Then +we come to the baron's hall, of noble dimensions. On the walls are the +stone sculptured arms of the Marquis of Worcester. The chapel was a +narrow room; and, nearly concealed by ivy, are two effigies. The +south-west tower contained the apartments occupied by Charles I. after +the battle of Naseby, in 1645. The grand terrace is in tolerable order, +and you proceed to it by a bridge. We ascended the towers and gazed on +majesty in ruins. We saw nothing on the continent finer than Ragland +Castle. The prospect from the great tower is the finest that can be +imagined, and I almost fear to tell you its extent. + +You may imagine that we felt unusually interested at this place, from +the fact that here the Marquis of Worcester invented the steam engine. + +The castle was devastated by the parliamentary troops under Fairfax, +having surrendered in 1646. The defence was gallant, but unavailing. + +The warder of the castle is a very gentlemanly man. He took us into his +apartments in one of the towers, and we found that he was a very +respectable amateur in painting. Some of his oil paintings were very +creditable. An infant girl, of great beauty, his daughter, answered to +the name of Blanche Castle May, and was the first-born child under that +roof since its desolation. + +Here, as well as at Tintern Abbey, I obtained ivy roots for Mr. Hall, +and hope to see them flourishing on the walls of his beautiful stone +house in Rhode Island. + +We retired slowly from this romantic ruin, and at the hotel found an +excellent dinner. One dish was fit for a king--sewen, young salmon, or a +species of salmon, for there is much dispute among naturalists as to the +identity of these fish. Any how, they are fine beyond any fish. They +were about two and a quarter pounds each, and are so delicate that they +do not well bear transportation. + +We returned to Chepstow that evening, having a fine ride through a new +piece of scenery, and were quite ready for a sound night's rest. In the +morning we looked at the castle in Chepstow, which is remarkably fine, +and is of extreme antiquity; some of the arches of the castle chapel +indicating clearly a Saxon origin. One of the priestly legends is that +this chapel was built by Longinus, a Jew, and father of the soldier who +pierced the side of Christ. This was the belief of the ancient +population of this charming region. + +All around this town Roman coins are frequently turned up; and I +obtained from a gentleman a very well-preserved Cæsar silver coin, dug +up a day or two before. + +This castle was for more than twenty years the prison home of Henry +Marten, one of the regicides. He is buried in the parish church, and in +the north transept is the following acrostical epitaph which he composed +for his monument:-- + + Here, September 9, 1680, + + was buried + + A TRUE-BORN ENGLISHMAN, + + Who in Berkshire was well known + To love his country's freedom 'bove his own; + But being immured full twenty year, + Had time to write, as doth appear. + + HIS EPITAPH. + + Here or elsewhere (all's one to you, to me) + Earth, air, or water gripes my ghostly dust + None know how soon to be by fire set free; + Reader, if you an old-tried rule will trust, + you will gladly do and suffer what you must. + + My time was spent in serving you, and you, + And death's my pay, it seems, and welcome, too; + Revenge destroying but itself, while I + To birds of prey leave my old cage, and fly; + Examples preach t' the eye; care then, (mine says,) + Not how you end, but how you spend your days. + +Colonel Henry Marten was one of the noble assertors of English liberty +who dared to oppose a weak, but cruel and capricious tyrant. If ever a +monarch was a tyrant and despot, it was the first Charles. No American +citizen who thinks that Patrick Henry, Samuel Adams, John Hancock, +Thomas Jefferson, John Adams, and George Washington were praiseworthy +for the resistance which they offered to the aggressions of George III., +can for one moment fail to reverence Eliot, Hampden, Marten, Whalley, +Ludlow, Pym, and Cromwell for their noble opposition to Charles and his +tormentor general, that incarnation of sanctimonious cruelty, Archbishop +Laud. It is one of the signs that a "good time is coming" that public +opinion in England, as well as in America, is fast setting in favor of +Cromwell and his noble coadjutors. They opposed measures rather than +men; and what proves that they were right in expelling the Stuarts from +power is the fact that when, by infatuation, "the fated race" was +restored, and again played over former pranks, the people had to oust +the family in 1688, and thus by another national verdict confirm the +wisdom and patriotism of the men who had formerly dared to teach a +tyrant the rights of freemen. Marten was a noble spirit, but his morals +were not as correct as those of his political associates. + +The game now played by the advocates of high church and state notions in +England and America is to represent the republican party as illiterate +and narrow minded. A viler falsehood was never sworn to at the Old +Bailey. The leading men of the party who opposed the royal tyrant were +scholars, and ripe ones. If any man doubts it, let him read their +speeches, peruse their lives, and study their writings. Prynne did not +lose his acquirements nor his brains when Charles and Laud cropped his +ears, and, loving the sport, came back for a second harvest, and +"grubbed out the stumps" remaining from the first operation. Read his +folios, quartoes, and octavoes, and from one of these men estimate the +others. If you want to know the real character of Cromwell and his +party, as to their knowledge and love of good letters, look at the +patronage which the government gave to learning. Owen was chancellor of +Oxford, Milton and Thurlow were secretaries, and their friends were +called into public life. Were these men barbarians and enemies to +learning? The men who were educated at Oxford and Cambridge at this +period were the ornaments of learning and religion for the next forty +years. The day has gone by forever when Cromwell's name can be used as +synonymous with fraud, ignorance, and hypocrisy. Kings and prelates may +hate him, but a liberty-loving world will enshrine his character in the +sanctuary of grateful hearts and faithful memories. + +After crossing the Severn at the old Passage, or Aust, where it is two +miles wide, we took carriage to Bristol. This parish of Aust gave a +church living to the immortal Wickliffe, who received the appointment +from Edward III. + +The drive to the city was a rich enjoyment. Every acre is in the highest +cultivation, and the charming villas of the merchant princes of Bristol +make the eleven miles an entire garden scene. + +Four miles from the city we came to Henbury, regarded by the citizens as +their finest suburban spot. It is indeed beautiful. There are here about +a dozen exquisite cottages, built in 1811, by Mr. Harford, who lives in +Blaize Castle. The founder's object was purely benevolent--to provide a +comfortable asylum for aged females, who had income enough to support +them, if only relieved from house rent. The forms of these cottages are +all different, but they were the earliest specimens in our times of the +adoption of the old Elizabethan style. They are perfect _bijoux_, and +the taste displayed in the shrubberies is very great. + +Blaize Castle is a fine building, and surrounded by noble woods. The +castle is a circle, flanked With three round towers. + +I ought not to omit that we had on this trip the pleasure of being +accompanied by a gentleman from Bristol, whose taste and perfect +knowledge of the ground afforded us much gratification. I allude, to Mr. +Dix, author of "Pen and Ink Sketches," which formerly appeared in the +Boston Atlas. Mr. Dix was with us at Windsor Castle, and when he heard +from Weld French or George Vanderbilt that Robinson's birthday would +occur shortly, he noted it, and sent James the following pretty lines, +which reached him May 15th, in Paris. I think you will be pleased with +them. + + +TO JAMES A. ROBINSON. + + When wandering neath old Windsor's towers + We laughed away the sunny hours, + You asked me for a simple rhyme; + So now accept this birthday chime. + No poet I--the "gift divine" + Ne'er was, and never will be, mine; + But take these couplets, which impart + The anxious wishes of my heart, + In place of more aspiring lay, + To greet you on your natal day. + + Boy of that country of the brave, + Beyond the Atlantic's western wave, + I, dweller in the motherland, + A welcome give with heart and hand; + And on your birthday breathe a prayer + That you may every blessing share; + That your world journey may be blest + With all that may prepare you best + For the approaching eve of age-- + The end of mortal pilgrimage. + + Upon your brow of youthful bloom + I would not cast a shade of gloom; + Yet did I say that life will ever + Flow onward like a placid river, + With only sunshine on its breast, + That ne'er 'twill be by storms distressed, + I should but flatter to deceive, + And but a web of falsehood weave. + Yet, checkered though life's path may seem, + Life's pleasures are not _all_ a dream. + + What shall I wish you? I would fain + That earthly greatness you may gain; + But if that guerdon is not sent, + Be with some humble lot content; + And let this truth be understood-- + Few can be great, _all may_ be good. + Power, pomp, ambition, envy, pride, + Wrecked barks adown life's stream may glide, + Ruined by some fierce passion throe, + E'er, reckless, o'er Time's brink they go; + But if fair virtue grasps the helm, + Nor storm nor wave can overwhelm. + + That many happy years be yours: + Seek truth which every good insures; + Press on, though clouds may intervene + And for a moment veil the scene. + Think of the great ones of your land, + And, like them, strive with heart and hand + To leave a name, when you depart, + Which shall be dear to many a heart. + Determine in life's early morn + All good to prize, all ill to scorn, + And aim to live and die as one + Worthy the land of Washington! + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 54. + + +LIVERPOOL. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Well, this looks like the back track; and here we are at the Adelphi, +ready to take our passage in the noble Atlantic, which is as good as new +again, and will sail on the twenty-third. We left Bristol with much +regret, for we there have formed acquaintances which we shall often +remember with affection and gratitude; and I wish we could meet them in +America, and have an opportunity to reciprocate some of the many +kindnesses we met with at their hands. We took the railroad for +Cheltenham, and passed through some charming country before we reached +the old city of Gloucester. On our left were the flint towers of +Berkeley Castle, where the second Edward was so savagely murdered by his +wife's command. + +Cheltenham is about forty miles from the city of Bristol, and we found +it all that Dr. C. had described it--a very nice modern town indeed. It +is like our Saratoga, but much more beautiful. The population is about +thirty thousand, and the strangers who resort there in the season are +probably five thousand more. The waters are in high repute, and are +regarded as strongly cathartic. The buildings are very fine, and the +entire air of the place is unlike any thing we have seen in England. +Other places seem old. This is new, and looks fresh and American in that +respect, but vastly more elegant and permanent than our towns usually +are. We had very kind attentions here from the Rev. Mr. Gilby, the +rector of the parish church, and who strongly urged us to stay over the +day; but we resumed the cars, got to Birmingham at ten o'clock, and went +to our old quarters at the Hen and Chickens. The next day we devoted to +the survey of this vast toy shop. Our greatest gratification was at the +royal _papier maché_ and japan works of Jennens & Bettridge. To this +firm we had introductions, and we went through every department of the +establishment. When we came to the show-rooms we were all tempted by the +beauty of the finished wares, and made several purchases. Here, too, are +other manufactories for pins and pens; but I must pass them by. We +called on the Rev. John Angell James, who has lived here so long, and +made a world-wide reputation. He looks very hearty and vigorous, and +shows no signs of age. He has lived in his house forty-five years. We +obtained his autograph. We also called on Rev. Mr. Swan, an old friend +of the doctor in early days, and had a pleasant chat. Mr. Swan was once +a professor in the college at Serampore, in India. He is full of life +and animation; and it seems to me that people here are more vivacious +and sprightly than with us--old folks and middle-aged ones certainly +are. We took dinner with Mr. Vanwart, brother-in-law to Washington +Irving, and shall not soon forget the elegant hospitality of his +mansion. He resides about two miles from the town; and his lawn gave us +a fine view of the English thrush and blackbird, of which birds there +were plenty on the grass. It was so cold that we had to have fires, +although the 19th of July. Mr. Vanwart was one of the saved, when the +Atlantic was lost in the Sound, November 26, 1846; and he made the +kindest inquiries after you and the family, and said that when he next +visited America he should find you out. That evening we reached +Liverpool, and had a quiet Sabbath, but a very stormy one. It rained +harder than any day since we have been abroad. We attended church in the +morning, and heard a very eloquent sermon from Mr. Birrel, and Dr. C. +preached for him at night. The Europa arrived on this day, and we met +friends from Boston--among others the Rev. Dr. Peck. On Monday we went +to Chester, the finest old city in England, with a population of +twenty-four thousand. It claims an antiquity equal to any city in the +world; for they say it was founded by the grandson of Japhet, two +hundred and forty years after the flood! Any how, it was great in Roman +days--great in the days of Alfred. No town in the country has a more +thorough history; and we have two very interesting octavoes filled with +it, and richly illustrated with antique engravings. It is a walled city, +and has undergone many sieges and blockades. The castle has great +celebrity, and is of Norman origin. Its walls are one mile and three +fourths in length, and there are four great gates. The bridge over the +Dee has seven arches, and is as old as the Norman conquest. The +cathedral was built in the days of Henry VII. and Henry VIII. It is +composed of red stone, and has a fine front. The chapter-house in the +cloisters is universally admired by antiquarians. We went into one very +old church, which was undergoing restoration. The town, like Berne, has +rows in front of the houses, supported by pillars so that, in shopping, +you walk under covered galleries. + +We returned to Liverpool, and dined with a gentleman who has been very +polite to us--Mr. Thomas Davies, a celebrated maker of gold watches. +From him I obtained one, preferring an English to a Swiss timepiece. +Here we saw the cultivation of plants in the house in greater perfection +than I recollect elsewhere. + +To-morrow we are to take our departure; and, though very glad to return +home, yet I feel sorry at leaving a country where there is so much that +is excellent and noble and beautiful. I have learnt, certainly, that +England and America have too much in common to justify the indulgence +of hatred and prejudice; and I find the tone of feeling here, among wise +and-good people, very kind towards America. I have rarely heard a +reflection upon our country, excepting upon our slavery. That they _must +talk_ about; and they are a little like the man who, having just got rid +of the irritable affection supposed to trouble the North Britons, could +not for his life help speaking of sulphur. An Englishman is sure to tell +you that he is free from this sin--yes, washed, but scarcely dry. + +Our hotel is filling up with Americans, and, we expect to meet many +friends on board the Atlantic. I am much pleased with the appearance of +Captain West; he looks every inch an admiral. And now, my dear fellow, I +shall see you, perhaps, before you read my letter; but I have kept my +promise to tell you what we saw and did. Of course many things will +occur to our memories when we get home, and will furnish matter for +chitchat which I hope soon to have with you, as in days of old. Well, +you are now at the business of life, and I am yet a little longer to +spend my time in preparation for it. I wonder how we shall come out, +Charley? But time will tell, and let us do our best. + +Yours affectionately, + +WELD. + +P.S. I must not forget to tell you that, while at Bristol, the doctor +and I ran up to Windsor to see the royal agricultural exhibition, held +this year in the Home Park. James stopped with our friends, and we were +anxious to see the great show of England in her farming interest. The +display was very great, and the cattle were wonderfully fine in all the +departments--Durham, Hereford, Devons, and Channel Island. The last are +very nice animals for a paddock, and give good milk. The horses were +good; and I longed to bring home one or two that I saw, and felt +strongly tempted. But the sheep and swine were the most remarkable +things there. Really, we know little about sheep. They are monstrous, +and yet very symmetrical and beautiful; whilst there are pigs, strange +as you may think it, that have established high claims to beauty and +perfection. I greatly preferred the Sussex breed to any other. Never was +a town so crowded as this same Windsor. Thousands upon thousands were +flocking into it; and how and where they fed I cannot divine. Money +seemed useless, and waiters hardly looked at half crowns for retaining +fees. + + + + +Letter 55. + + +NEW YORK, August 3,1851. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We are, through the goodness of Providence, safely returned. We had a +good voyage, in a capital ship, and under the charge of as good a +captain as ever sailed the ocean. Our passengers were about one hundred +and thirty in number, and very agreeable--some few were our old +voyagers in the Arctic. With an exception or two, our way was as +pleasant as it could have been; and there were some cheerful spirits +that knew how to create sunshine at all hours. I cannot tell what +travellers can desire in a steamer which they will not find in the +Collins line. It seems to us that we have had the full worth of the +money paid for passage. How different it is to come to New York in ten +days, instead of being on the ocean for sixty-four days, as I have in a +sailing packet! Well, this saving of time and feelings is worth the +difference of the passage price. I am at a loss to understand how +Americans who have to cross the ocean should think of supporting the +English steamers in preference to our own superior ships. The influence +of every English agent, of course, goes out in behalf of the old line; +and all sorts of stories are told about winter passages, the importance +of boats especially built for strength, and the advantages of +experience. Now, the history of the American line is a perfect +refutation of all this twaddle. The truth is, that all voyaging is +connected with exposedness to some danger; and up to this moment the +Americans have had, in all their ocean steam voyages, the full measure +of success. They have lost no boat, they have sacrificed no lives, and +they present a fleet of steamships the like of which the world cannot +equal. Whenever an American citizen takes his passage in a foreign +steamer, and an American one is at hand, he tacitly confesses the +superiority of other lands, in ocean navigation, to his own country, and +he contributes his full share to depress American enterprise, and aids +so far as he can to insure its failure. The eyes of the English nation +are upon our ships; and if we desire the spread of our national fame, we +should, every man of us, labor to sustain our own steamers and +propellers. And the government of our country should strenuously guard +the interests of this available arm of national defence; and the country +at large, would certainly sustain Congress in liberal support of this +truly American enterprise. + +Perhaps, Charley, you are ready to say to us, "Well, what do you think, +after all you have been seeing in other lands?". I reply: We think that +we return home with all our hearts more warmly attached to our beloved +land than when we left her shores. We have seen lands, as fair, and +fields as fertile, as our own. We have seen monarchies and republics; +but nowhere have we seen man as erect and self-respecting as at home. +Here we have equal laws, civil and religious liberty, no bishop to +intimidate a day laborer who prefers to pass by his cathedral gates and +worship his Maker in a humbler temple. Here our streets are not labelled +with "_Liberté, Egalité, Fraternité_," but the things signified are +_known_ and _felt_ by every man that traverses these avenues of +business. Here we have not thousands of armed men in this great city to +preserve liberty; but every man enjoys it, and sees nothing of the +government, which, though unseen, is all-powerful in the affections of +the country. + +We come home grateful that we have such a country; and though we love +and admire much, very much, in England, yet we rejoice that we can call +the United States our land. We hope we are better prepared than before +we started to do her service. I am quite satisfied, Charley, that God +has not done for any other people what he has for us. We know nothing of +the restless anxiety which depresses men in England as to the means of +procuring the necessaries of life. We have our chief anxieties called +out in reference to the obtaining the _luxuries_ and _embellishments_ of +life; the _necessaries_ are almost certain to every man who has health +and character. But in England, toil is poorly requited; and a father +and husband may, after unremitting labor, have to find his refuge, and +his only one, in that petition of the Lord's Prayer, which you and I +never employed _in pure faith_, "Give me this day my daily bread." We +_say so_; but _we know whence it is coming to us. He_ knows not; and +what he knows not, he asks God after. + +A thoughtful and humane American cannot travel in Europe without having +his sympathies daily called out in behalf of the sufferings of man. I am +no apologist for slavery; I deeply lament its existence; but I believe +that there is as much suffering in coal pits and manufacturing districts +of England as in our southern slave states. In regard to England, I feel +encouraged. In an absence of fifteen years I see marked improvement. Man +is more respected, as man, than he once was; the masses are coming up; +and the wealthy and the noble are more considerate. It is a great folly +and a wickedness to think that the nobility of England are weak, +vicious, unfeeling, proud, and self-indulgent. Some of the noblest +characters of England are to be found in the peerage--men who "fear God +and work righteousness." Their homes are often centres of diffusive +blessedness; and were the nobility of England what too many here suppose +them, the state could not last a twelvemonth. The queen is popular, and +is clearly a woman of great tact. She would do at a crisis. Prince +Albert is everything to her. He is a profoundly wise and prudent man, +highly educated, and has very superior powers of mind. He is continually +making speeches, but they are all marked by _adaptation_. I have never +heard one disrespectful word uttered in England in regard to him. His +labors for the exhibition, have been remarkable, and but for the prince +the palace never would have been reared. England is happy indeed in +having such a man to counsel and support the sovereign. + +Europe looks as though a storm were once more about to gather over her +old battle fields. France is not in her true position. She would like to +see her armies employed; and I shall not be surprised to hear of his +holiness clearing out from Rome and seeking protection from Austria. If +that happens, France will sustain liberal views in the Eternal City, and +the contest will be severe. + +Popery has lost its hold upon the continent, and is seeking to regain +its influence in England, and plant it in America. The people of England +are Protestant to the heart's core. The folly of a few scholastics at +Oxford has created all the hue and cry of Puseyism, and invigorated the +hopes of Rome. These men at Oxford have poisoned the minds of a few of +their pupils, and in the upper walks of life some sympathy is seen with +views that seem at least semi-Papistical. But the great body of the +people is sound. More than half the population is made up of dissenters +and they, to a man, hate "the beast;" and there is about as much danger +of Popery being established in England as there is of absolute monarchy +being embraced as our form of government. + +Popery in America must spread by immigration. We have Ireland virtually +in America; but here the Irish will gradually merge into Americans, and +the power of the priesthood will be less and less regarded by their +children. I have no apprehensions from the coming of Catholics to our +country. Let them come, and we must get Bibles ready for them, and Bible +readers to visit them, and schools to teach their children; and if +cardinal, or archbishop, or priest tell us that Popery is the friend of +science, and that it never persecuted genius, imprisoned learning, nor +burnt God's saints, we will tell the deceiver that he lies in the face +of God and man and the world's history. + +I am not, my dear fellow, uncharitable; a man may be better than his +creed; and I believe that some priests who have sung the song of the +mass will hereafter sing the song of Moses and the Lamb. But of Popery, +_as it is seen in Italy, and Austria, and other parts of the old world,_ +I cannot but pronounce it a curse to the human family, a system all +unworthy of God, and blasting to the happiness of man. + +The boys are in the enjoyment of health, and will soon see you. They +have been constant sources of pleasure to me, by their thoughtful +kindness and consideration; and nothing has transpired, to cause us to +look back with pain on any part of our wanderings from home. + +Yours, very truly, + +JNO. O. CHOULES. + + +To Mr. CHARLES W. DUSTAN, + +Stapleton; Staten Island, New York. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Young Americans Abroad, by Various + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK YOUNG AMERICANS ABROAD *** + +***** This file should be named 20625-8.txt or 20625-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/0/6/2/20625/ + +Produced by Frank van Drogen, Ralph Janke and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://dp.rastko.net, +from images generously made available by gallica +(Bibliothèque nationale de France) at http://gallica.bnf.fr. + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Young Americans Abroad + Vacation in Europe: Travels in England, France, Holland, + Belgium, Prussia and Switzerland + +Author: Various + +Editor: J.O. Choules + +Release Date: February 19, 2007 [EBook #20625] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK YOUNG AMERICANS ABROAD *** + + + + +Produced by Frank van Drogen, Ralph Janke and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://dp.rastko.net, +from images generously made available by gallica +(Bibliothèque nationale de France) at http://gallica.bnf.fr. + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<h1><a name="YOUNG_AMERICANS_ABROAD_COVER_TOP" id="YOUNG_AMERICANS_ABROAD_COVER_TOP"></a>YOUNG AMERICANS ABROAD</h1> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 291px;"> +<a name="CATHEDRAL_CHURCH_OF_ST_GUDULE_BRUSSELS" id="CATHEDRAL_CHURCH_OF_ST_GUDULE_BRUSSELS"></a> +<a href="images/pg002.png"><img src="images/pg002_th.png" width="291" height="400" alt="Cathedral Church of St. Gudule, Brussels" title="Cathedral Church of St. Gudule, Brussels" /></a> +<span class="caption">Cathedral Church of St. Gudule, Brussels</span> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="YOUNG_AMERICANS_ABROAD_COVER" id="YOUNG_AMERICANS_ABROAD_COVER"></a>YOUNG AMERICANS ABROAD;</h2> + +<p><br /><br /></p> +<h4>OR,</h4> +<p><br /><br /></p> + +<h2>VACATION IN EUROPE:</h2> + +<p><br /><br /> <br /><br /></p> + +<h3>TRAVELS</h3> + +<p><br /><br /> <br /><br /></p> + +<h4>IN ENGLAND, FRANCE, HOLLAND, BELGIUM, PRUSSIA +AND SWITZERLAND.</h4> + +<p><br /><br /> <br /><br /></p> + +<h4>With Illustrations.</h4> + +<p><br /><br /> <br /><br /></p> + +<p class="copyright">BOSTON: +GOULD AND LINCOLN,<br /> +<br /> +89 WASHINGTON STREET.<br /> +1852.<br /><br /></p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p class="copyright"><br /><br /> +Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1851, by<br /> +<br /> +GOULD AND LINCOLN,<br /> +<br /> +In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts.<br /> +<br /><br /><br /><br /> +<br /> +STEREOTYPED AT THE<br /> +BOSTON STEREOTYPE FOUNDRY<br /> +<br /><br /></p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><br /><br /></p> +<h4>TO</h4> + +<p><br /><br /></p> + +<h2>GEORGE SUMNER, ESQ.,</h2> + +<p><br /><br /></p> + +<p class="center">AS A<br /> +<br /></p> + +<h4>SLIGHT TRIBUTE OF GRATITUDE</h4> + +<p><br /><br /></p> + +<h3>FOR HIS KIND ATTENTIONS IN PARIS,</h3> + +<p class="center"> +<br /> +<br /> +AND IN<br /> +<br /></p> + +<h4>ADMIRATION OF TALENTS DEVOTED TO THE INTERESTS OF</h4> + +<p> +<br /> +<br /> +</p> + +<h2>FREEDOM,</h2> + +<p> +<br /> +<br /> +</p> + +<h3>THESE LETTERS ARE RESPECTFULLY</h3> + +<p> +<br /> +<br /> +</p> + +<h2>DEDICATED,</h2> + +<p> +<br /> +<br /> +</p> + +<h3>BY HIS OBLIGED FRIENDS,</h3> + +<p> +<br /> +<br /> +</p> + +<h2>THE AUTHORS.</h2> + +<p> +<br /><br /> +</p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="LIST" id="LIST"></a>LIST</h2> + + +<h2>OF</h2> + + +<h2>ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> + +<p><br /></p> + + +<p style="margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; "><br /><br /> +<a href="#CATHEDRAL_CHURCH_OF_ST_GUDULE_BRUSSELS">I. FRONTISPIECE—CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF ST. +GUDULE, BRUSSELS</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<a href="#FOUR_POSITIONS_OF_AN_ICEBERG">II. ICEBERGS SEEN FROM STEAMSHIP "ARCTIC," APRIL 6, 1851.</a><br /> +<br /> +<a href="#Thomas_Chatterton">III. PORTRAIT OF THOMAS CHATTERTON.</a><br /> +<br /> +<a href="#Robert_Southey">IV. PORTRAIT OF ROBERT SOUTHEY.</a><br /> +<br /> +<a href="#Samuel_Taylor_Coleridge">V. PORTRAIT OF SAMUEL TAYLOR COLERIDGE.</a><br /> +<br /> +<a href="#St_Paul39s_Cathedral">VI. VIEW OF ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL, LONDON.</a><br /> +<br /> +<a href="#Dr_Samuel_Johnson">VII. A FULL-LENGTH PORTRAIT OF DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON.</a><br /> +<br /> +<a href="#Poets39_Corner_Westminster_Abbey">VIII. VIEW OF THE POET'S CORNER, WESTMINSTER ABBEY.</a><br /> +<br /> +<a href="#Colonne_de_Juillet">IX. VIEW OF THE COLONNE DE JUILLET.</a><br /> +<br /> +<a href="#VINEYARD_ON_THE_RHINE">X. VINTAGE OF THE RHINE.</a><br /> +<br /> +<a href="#Swiss_Cottage">XI. VIEW OF A SWISS COTTAGE.</a><br /> +<br /> +<a href="#Sarcophagus">XII. NAPOLEON'S SARCOPHAGUS.</a><br /> +<br /></p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_3" id="Page_3" title="3"></a></span></p> +<h2><a name="INTRODUCTION" id="INTRODUCTION"></a>INTRODUCTION</h2> + + +<p class="text">One evening last winter a few private pupils +were sitting in the study of their instructor, +when he stated his intention to pass the spring +vacation in Europe, and his wish to have two +or three of his young friends as his travelling +companions. An earnest and joyous desire was +expressed by each lad to enjoy the gratification, +and in the course of a short period the arrangements +were made which afforded him the pleasure +to assure three boys that they should accompany +him. The ages of the young travelers +were twelve, fourteen, and sixteen. Their attention +was immediately directed to a course of +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_4" id="Page_4" title="4"></a></span>reading adapted to prepare them for the beneficial +use of the proposed tour; and during its +progress each boy kept a journal, which was +useful as a reference in the correspondence kept +up with friends and families at home. A companion +in study, left behind, and prevented by +duty from joining the party, wished to have constant +advices of the movements of his friends; +and the letters of the young travellers to a lad of +sixteen are, at the advice of many friends, now +submitted to the perusal of those at that age. +No similar work is known to the authors of +these letters; and at the forthcoming gift season +it is hoped that the young of our country may +be amused and gratified by these reminiscences +of other lands.</p> + +<p style="margin-right: 10%; text-align: right; "><span class="smcap">j.o. choules.</span></p> + +<p style="margin-left: 10%; text-align: left; "><span class="smcap">Newport</span>, R.I., Nov. 25, 1851.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_7" id="Page_7" title="7"></a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2> + + +<p><a href="#INTRODUCTION">INTRODUCTION.</a><br /><br /></p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_1">LETTER I.</a></h4> + +<p>Arrival at New York.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_2">LETTER II.</a></h4> + +<p>Going on board Steamer. — Arctic. — Weather. — Passengers. — Loss +of Life and Burial at Sea. — Icebergs. — Sabbath at Sea. — Land. — Excellence of Collins Line. — Adelphi Hotel.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_3">LETTER III.</a></h4> + +<p>Liverpool; Its Public Buildings, Docks, &c.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_4">LETTER IV.</a></h4> + +<p>Birmingham. — Arrival in London. — Strand. — Temple Bar. — Fleet +Street. — London Exchange. — London Coffee House. — Omnibuses.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_5">LETTER V.</a></h4> + +<p>United States Minister in London. — His kind Attentions. — Crystal +Palace. — London of other Days. — Monument. — The Bridges.</p><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_8" id="Page_8" title="8"></a></span></p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_6">LETTER VI.</a></h4> + +<p>Villages. — Camberwel. — Accidents and Murders in England as common +as in America. — Greenwich Fair. — Gypsies.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_7">LETTER VII.</a></h4> + +<p>Great Western Railroad. — Swindon. — Bristol. — Scenes of early +Life. — Ancient City. — Clifton and Hot Wells. — Redcliffe Church. — Chatterton.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_8">LETTER VIII.</a></h4> + +<p>Bristol Cathedral. — Monuments and Inscriptions. — Butler. — Mason. — Southey. — Cloisters. — Mayor's Chapel. — Dundry. — Vine +Prospect. — School attended in Boyhood.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_9">LETTER IX.</a></h4> + +<p>Clifton. — Avon. — Hot Wells. — Vincent's Rocks. — Robert Hall. — Sublime Scenery. — Leigh Court Picture Gallery.</p> + +<h4><a href="#Letter_10">LETTER X</a></h4> + +<p>Bath. — Royal Crescent. — Queen Square. — Cathedral. — Hot Baths. — Bradford. — Trowbridge. — Devizes. — Cricket.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_11">LETTER XI.</a></h4> + +<p>Tower of London; its History. — Horse Armory. — Antiquities and +Curiosities. — Executions. — Regalia, &c.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_12">LETTER XII.</a></h4> + +<p>Thames Tunnel. — New Houses of Parliament. — House of Lords +described. — Fresco Paintings. — St. Stephen's Hall. — House of +Commons. — Westminster Hall; its Associations, festive and +criminal.</p><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_9" id="Page_9" title="9"></a></span></p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_13">LETTER XIII.</a></h4> + +<p>British Museum; its fine Galleries, Pictures, Library, Autographs, +and MSS. — The Place to study. — Lord Campbell. — Servant who +resorted to it.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_14">LETTER XIV.</a></h4> + +<p>Woolwich. — Naval Arsenal and Dock Yard. — Ships of War. — Yard. — Twenty +Thousand Cannon. — Greenwich. — Blackheath. — Lee +Grove. — Golden Cross and its Host. — Mr. Lawrence's Soirée. — Duke +of Wellington.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_15">LETTER XV.</a></h4> + +<p>Exhibition. — Season Tickets. — Wet Weather. — One May fine. — City +Streets. — Throng around Palace. — Arrival of the Queen. — Opening +Scenes. — Procession, &c.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_16">LETTER XVI.</a></h4> + +<p>Fine Equipages. — Appearance of the Palace. — Walk through the +Exhibition. — American Contributions. — Greek Slave, &c. — Mediæval +Court. — Kohinoor Glass Window. — Austrian Furniture. — Amazon +of Kiss. — Crusaders. — Galleries. — Transept. — Glass +Fountain. — Sculpture. — Veiled Vesta. — Machinery. — Models. — Model +of Liverpool. — Plate Glass. — Taunton Cabinet — Steam +Power, &c.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_17">LETTER XVII.</a></h4> + +<p>Royal Polytechnic Institution. — Lectures. — Egyptian Hall. — Panorama +of Overland Route to California. — Exeter Hall Sermons. — Wyld's +great Globe. — Zoölogical Gardens. — Christ's Church Hospital; its Boys.</p><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_10" id="Page_10" title="10"></a></span></p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_18">LETTER XVIII.</a></h4> + +<p>Windsor Castle; its History. — Interior of the Palace. — Pictures. — Waterloo +Chamber. — St. George's Chanel. — Royal Tombs. — Edward +IV. — Henry VIII. — Charles I., Discovery of his Body in +1813, Account of the Appearance, &c. — Terraces of the Castle. — Eton +College. — Datchett. — Great Park. — Long Walk. — Celebrated +Trees. — Virginia Water. — Cumberland Lodge. — Frogmore.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_19">LETTER XIX.</a></h4> + +<p>Sir John Soane's Museum, House, Antiquities, Pictures. — Hogarth's +"Rake's Progress," and the "Election." — Wonderful Economy of +Room, &c. — Greenwich; Hospital, Chapel, Paintings, and Statuary. — Queen's +Stables; Horses, Harness Room, State Carriage. — Soyer's +Symposium; Description of its Rooms. — Dinner there.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_20">LETTER XX.</a></h4> + +<p>The Temple Church and its historical Associations. — Steamboat on +Thames. — View of St. Paul's from River. — St. Paul's Cathedral; +its Dome. — Statues: Johnson, Howard, Reynolds, Heber, West, +Nelson. — Ascent of the Dome and Cross. — View of London.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_21">LETTER XXI.</a></h4> + +<p>Westminster Abbey. — Early History. — Associations. — Poet's Corner. — Chapels. — Monuments and Effigies. — Coronation Chairs. — Stone +of Scone Statuary. — Sermon in Abbey by Lord John Thynne.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_22">LETTER XXII.</a></h4> + +<p>Hyde Park. — St. James's and Green Park. — Regent's Park. — Squares +of London. — Northumberland House. — Sion House. — St Margaret's +Church. — St. Martin's in-the-Fields.</p><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_11" id="Page_11" title="11"></a></span></p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_23">LETTER XXIII.</a></h4> + +<p>Mission House. — Lord Mayor's Day. — Royal Exchange. — Bank of +England. — London Docks. — Covent Garden Market.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_24">LETTER XXIV.</a></h4> + +<p>Rev. Dr. Murray. — Dover Castle. — Passage across the Channel. — Calais. — St. +Omer. — Douai. — Arras. — Amiens. — Clermont. — Paris. — Hotel +Windsor. — A Mistake, and Loss of a Dinner.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_25">LETTER XXV.</a></h4> + +<p>Gardens and Promenades. — Gayety. — Flowers. — Wrong Drawing-room. — Notre +Dame. — Interior. — Sacristy. — Robes and Relics. — Hotel +de Ville. — Louvre shut. — Paris by Moonlight.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_26">LETTER XXVI.</a></h4> + +<p>Palais Royal. — Garden. — Gay Scene. — Passage d'Orleans. — House +opposite to which Henry IV. was assassinated by Ravaillac. — Molière. — Marat +and Charlotte Corday. — Palace of the Luxembourg. — Paintings. — Gardens. — Statuary. — Chapel.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_27">LETTER XXVII.</a></h4> + +<p>Hotel de Cluny; History, Associations, Interior, wonderful Contents. — Julian's +Palace of the Baths. — Mr. George Sumner. — Church +of St. Sulpice. — Statuary. — Ecclesiastical Fountain. — Bibliothèque +St. Geneviève. — Church of St. Etienne du Mont. — History. — Monuments +of Racine and Pascal. — Christening an Infant. — Church of St. Germain +des Pres, (oldest in Paris); its Restoration +going on. — Tombs of Descartes, Mabillon, Montfaucon, &c.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_28">LETTER XXVIII.</a></h4> + +<p>Jardin des Plantes; Situation, History. — Cedar of Lebanon and +Palm-trees. — Menagerie. — Cuvier. — Museum of Comparative Anat<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_12" id="Page_12" title="12"></a></span>omy, +&c. — Paris owes much to Henry IV., Louis XIV., Napoleon, +and Louis Philippe. — Pont Neuf. — St. Bartholomew's Massacre. — Bastile. — Column.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_29">LETTER XXIX.</a></h4> + +<p>An amusing Fellow-countryman. — Père la Chaise. — Monuments. — Abattoir. — Consul's +Office; his numerous Calls.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_30">LETTER XXX.</a></h4> + +<p>Cirque. — Amusements. — Champs Elysées. — Hippodrome. — Arabs. — Sabbath kept in Parlor.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_31">LETTER XXXI.</a></h4> + +<p>Pleasant Company. — Railroad to Brussels. — Jemappes. — Mons. — Brussels; +History. — Hotel de Ville. — Cathedral Church of St. +Gudule; its Monuments. — First Communion. — Park. — Palace. — Hon. +Mr. Bayard.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_32">LETTER XXXII.</a></h4> + +<p>Lacework. — Money Matters. — An uncivil Banker. — Museum. — Paintings. — Burgundian +Library. — Manekin. — Botanical Garden.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_33">LETTER XXXIII.</a></h4> + +<p>Excursion to Waterloo. — Hongomont. — Relics. — Belgian Mound and +Lion. — Ivy from Waterloo for Mr. J.P. Hall. — Church. — King +Leopold.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_34">LETTER XXXIV.</a></h4> + +<p>Laeken. — Vilvorde. — Mechlin, or Mallnes. — Antwerp; History. — Place +Verte. — Statue of Rubens. — Cathedral of Notre Dame. — Interior +Pulpit. — Pictures by Rubens. — Tower of the Church. — Quentin +Matsys's fine old Houses.</p><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_13" id="Page_13" title="13"></a></span></p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_35">LETTER XXXV.</a></h4> + +<p>St. James's Church. — Tomb of Rubens. — Paintings by Rubens and +Jordaens. — Vandyke. — Mount Calvary. — Monk of La Trappe. — Museum. — Chair +of Rubens; his Pictures. — Other great Works of +Art. — St. Andrew's Church. — Bourse. — Mr. Vesey, U.S. Consul.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_36">LETTER XXXVI.</a></h4> + +<p>Dock Yards at Antwerp. — Steamboat Passage on the Scheldt. — Dort. — Lost +Villages. — Bergen op Zoom. — Van Speyk. — Rotterdam. — Erasmus. — Delft. — Hague. — Hon. +George Folsom; his Kindness. — Scheveningen. — Museum. — Japanese +Curiosities. — Historical Curiosities. — Gallery +of Pictures. — Rembrandt, Paul Potter, Gerard +Dow, &c. — King's Palace. — Brimenhoff. — De Witt. — Bosch. — John +Adams's House.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_37">LETTER XXXVII.</a></h4> + +<p>Dunes. — Leyden; History. — Harlem. — Church of St. Bavon; Organ. — Coster. — Flower +Gardens. — Palace of late King. — Picture +Gallery. — Exhibition of Pictures by living Artists. — Amsterdam.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_38">LETTER XXXVIII.</a></h4> + +<p>Mr. J.G. Schwartze. — Stadhuis. — Churches. — Jews. — Picture +Gallery. — Dutch School. — Columbus before the Council. — Artists' Club.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_39">LETTER XXXIX.</a></h4> + +<p>Utrecht. — Lobith. — Ruhrort. — Meet with Americans on Return from +the East. — Cologne; History. — Cathedral. — Three Kings. — Relics. — St. +Peter's Church. — Crucifixion of Peter, by Rubens. — Champagne +for America.</p><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_14" id="Page_14" title="14"></a></span></p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_40">LETTER XL.</a></h4> + +<p>The Rhine. — Bonn. — Drachenfels. — Godesberg. — Rolandseck. — Oberwinter. — Okenfels. — Castle +Reineck. — Neuwied. — A Raft. — Castle +of Sain. — Ehrenbreitstein. — Coblentz.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_41">LETTER XLI.</a></h4> + +<p>Coblentz. — The Moselle. — Excursion to Stolzenfels. — Curiosities. — Fine +View. — Boat up to Mayence. — The Brothers. — Rheinfels. — Lurley +Rock. — Seven Sisters. — Pfalz. — The Rheingau. — Falkenberg. — Rheinstein. — Assmanshausen. — Ehrenfels. — Mausetherm. — Bingen. — Geisenheim. — Johannisberg. — Erbach. — Biberich. — Mayence. — John +Guttemberg's Statue — Austrian Troops. — An +English Nobleman.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_42">LETTER XLII.</a></h4> + +<p>Frankfort. — The Römer; its Portraits of the Emperors. — Mr. Bethman's +Gallery of Statuary. — Ariadne. — Jews' Quarters. — Darmstadt. — The +Bergstrasse. — Heidelberg. — Castle. — Baden. — Kehl. — Strasburg.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_43">LETTER XLIII.</a></h4> + +<p>Cathedral; Its History; Interior Clock. — St. Thomas's Church. — Kleber's +Tomb.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_44">LETTER XLIV.</a></h4> + +<p>Vosges Mountains. — Vineyards. — Colmar. — Mühlhausen. — Basle. — Black +Forest. — United States Consul, Mr. Burchardt. — Cathedral. — Tomb +of Erasmus. — Chapter House. — Holbein Gallery. — University. — Library. — MSS. — St. +Jacob. — Tea Party.</p><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_15" id="Page_15" title="15"></a></span></p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_45">LETTER XLV.</a></h4> + +<p>Moutiers Valley. — Sublime Scenery. — Domach. — Arch. — Roman +Antiquities. — Berne. — Mechanical Clock. — Cathedral; Organ, +Choir, Bears. — Lausanne.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_46">LETTER XLVI.</a></h4> + +<p>Mountain Scenery. — Hotel Gibbon. — Episcopal Church. — Signal. — Hotel +de Ville, and its kind Inhabitants. — Cathedral; its History. — Steamboat +to Vevay. — Castle of Chillon. — St. Martin's Church +and the Regicides. — Geneva. — Cathedral. — Museum. — Calvin's +MBS. — D'Aubigné. — Gaussen — Malan. — Evangelical Association; +its Anniversary. — Count George. — Soirée. — Mr. Delorme. — The +Salève. — Savoy. — Rousseau's Island.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_47">LETTER XLVII.</a></h4> + +<p>Diligence for Dijon. — Fine Scenery. — Dijon; History. — Railroad to +Paris. — Sens. — Cathedral. — Fontainebleau.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_48">LETTER XLVIII.</a></h4> + +<p>Methodist Chapel. — Madeline. — Pantheon. — Louvre, open. — Statuary +and Paintings. — Versailles. — Statuary. — Series of National +Paintings. — Portraits of distinguished Men. — Apartments. — Gardens +and Fountains. — Grand and Petit Trianon. — Passy. — St. Cloud.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_49">LETTER XLIX.</a></h4> + +<p>Glass Depot — American Friends. — Good Intentions. — Hospital des +Invalides. — Garden of the Tulleries; its Scenery. — Triumphal +Arch. — Chapel of St. Ferdinand. — National Library. — A Tradesman's +Memory.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_50">LETTER L.</a></h4> + +<p>Calais; its Recollections. — Rough Passage of the Channel. — Dover. — Mr. +Peabody's Entertainment on the Fourth of July described. — Company. — A +patriotic Act.</p><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_16" id="Page_16" title="16"></a></span></p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_51">LETTER LI.</a></h4> + +<p>Entertainment at the Belgian Minister's. — Young Nobility. — A noble +Boy. — Craven Chapel. — Slavery. — Exhibition. — Pauper Labor. — Need +of a Tariff.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_52">LETTER LII.</a></h4> + +<p>Kind Friends at Bristol, — Weston Super Mare. — Museum of Baptist +College. — Highbury Chapel. — Old Houses of Bristol. — Fine +Churches.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_53">LETTER LIII.</a></h4> + +<p>River Avon. — Wye. — Chepstow. — St. Aryan's. — Wynd Cliff. — Glorious +Scenery. — Tintern Abbey; its History. — Ragland Castle; Appearance. — Marquis +of Worcester. — Chopstow Castle. — Henry +Marten. — Defence of the Parliamentary Party. — Severn River. — Old +Passage. — Henbury. — Blaize Castle. — Birthday Lines.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_54">LETTER LIV.</a></h4> + +<p>Leave Bristol. — Berkeley. — Cheltenham. — Birmingham; Manufactories. — Rev. +John Angell James. — Mr. Vanwart. — Liverpool. — Chester; +its Antiquity. — Cathedral. — Rows and Pillars. — Englishmen +and Americans have much in Common. — Royal Agricultural +Exhibition at Windsor.</p> + + +<h4><a href="#Letter_55">LETTER LV.</a></h4> + +<p>Passage Home in the Steamer Atlantic. — Claims of the Collins +Line. — Lessons taught by Travel in other Lands. — Our Comforts. — Excellent +Character of many of the English Nobility. — Queen Victoria +and Prince Albert. — Prospect of Affairs in Europe. — Popery as +seen in her proper Territories.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_17" id="Page_17" title="17"></a></span></p> +<h2><a name="Young_Americans_Abroad" id="Young_Americans_Abroad"></a>Young Americans Abroad.</h2> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_1" id="Letter_1"></a>Letter 1.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Astor House, New York</span>, April 1, 1851.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">I have just arrived at this place, and have found +my companions on hand, all ready for the commencement +of the long-anticipated voyage. We +regret the circumstances which render it your duty +to remain, and we all feel very sorry for the disappointment +of your wishes and our hopes. You +will, however, feel happy in the thought that you +are clearly in the path of duty; and you have already +learnt that that path is a safe one, and that +it always leads to happiness. You have begged us +all to write to you as frequently as we can, and we +have concluded to send you our joint contributions, +drawing largely upon our journals as we move from +place to place; and, as we have for so many years +had pleasant intercourse in the family circle, we +wish to maintain it by correspondence abroad. Our +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_18" id="Page_18" title="18"></a></span>letters will, of course, be very different in their character +and interest, because you will bear in mind +that out ages are different; and we shall write you +from a variety of points, some having a deeper +interest than others. I trust that this series of letters +will give you a general view of our movements, +and contribute to your gratification, if not to your +instruction. The weather is delightful, and we are +anticipating a fine day for leaving port. It is to all +of us a source of pain that we are deprived of your +sunny smile; and while we are wandering far away +in other lands, we shall often, in fancy, listen to +your merry laugh; and I assure you, my dear fellow, +that, wherever we rove, it will be amongst our +pleasantest thoughts of home when we anticipate +the renewal of personal intercourse with one who +has secured so warm a place in our affections.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">j.o.c.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_2" id="Letter_2"></a>Letter 2.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Adelphi Hotel, Liverpool</span>, April 14.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">It is but twelve days since we parted, and yet +we are actually in the old world, and the things +which we have so often talked over on the rock-bound +shore are really before me. Yes, we +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_19" id="Page_19" title="19"></a></span>are on the soil of Old England, and are soon to +see its glories and greatness, and, I fear, its miseries, +for a bird's eye view has already satisfied me +that there is enough of poverty. You know we left +New York in a soaking rain, and the wind blowing +fresh from the north-east. We all felt disappointed, +as we had hoped to pass down the bay, so celebrated +for its beauty, with the bright sunshine to +cheer our way; but we had to take comfort from +the old proverb, that "a bad beginning makes a +good ending." James, George, and I had made up +our minds to a regular time of sea-sickness, and +so we hastened to put our state room into order +and have all our conveniences fixed for the voyage. +As soon as we had made matters comfortable, we +returned to the deck, and found a most formidable +crowd. Every passenger seemed to have, on the +occasion, a troop of friends, and all parts of the immense +steamer were thronged. The warning voice +of <i>"all on shore"</i> soon caused a secession, and at +twelve o'clock we had the great agent at work by +which we hoped to make headway against wind and +wave. The cheering of the crowd upon the wharf +was hearty as we dropped into the river, and its +return from our passengers was not lacking in spirit. +The Arctic, you know, is one of the Collins line of +steamers, and I was not a little surprised at her vast +size and splendid accommodations, because I had +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_20" id="Page_20" title="20"></a></span>only seen the Cunard boats in Boston, which are +very inferior, in size and comfort, to this palace and +tower of the ocean.</p> + +<p class="text">We all anticipated a hard time of it, from the +severe storm which raged all the morning, and I, +in common with all the passengers, was delighted +to find it any thing but rough water outside the +Hook. We kept steaming away till we lost sight of +land with the loss of daylight, and yet the sea was in +less commotion than it frequently exhibits in Newport +Harbor. The next morning, at breakfast, we +had quite a fair representation at table, and I think +more than two thirds presented themselves for duty. +We boys were all on hand, and passed for "able-bodied +men." The routine of life on board was +as follows: We breakfasted at eight, lunched at +twelve, dined at four, took tea at half past six, and +from nine till eleven gentlemen had any article for +supper they saw fit to order. This is quite enough +of time for taking care of the outer man, and any +one careful of his health will be sure to intermit +one or two of these seasons. All the meals were +excellent, and the supplies liberal. The tables present +a similar appearance to those of a first-class +hotel. In regard to our passengers, I think I can +say, with confidence, that a more agreeable set of +persons could not well have been gathered together. +It really was a nicely-assorted cargo. We numbered +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_21" id="Page_21" title="21"></a></span>one hundred and thirty, and the various parts of our +country were all represented. Philadelphia sent +the largest delegation; from that city we had more +than twenty. I liked the looks of the passengers +at the first glance, and every day's intercourse +heightened my estimate of their worth and pleasantness. +Amongst the company we had Professor +Haddock, of Dartmouth College, going out to Portugal +as <i>chargé d'affaires</i>. He was accompanied by +his lady and son. Then, too, we had the world-renowned +Peter Parley, with his accomplished family +circle. Mr. Goodrich, after a long life of labor +for the youth of his country, for whose reading and +instruction he has done so much, has been honored +by the government of the United States with an +appointment as consul at Paris. Mr. Goodrich +resided there for two or three years, and was in +Paris during the revolution of 1848. He seems +fond of the company of young people, and we spent +a great deal of time on board with him, listening +to his stories, some made up for the occasion, and +narrations of the events in February at Paris, and +some capital anecdotes about the last war with England, +during which he served his country in the +army. The Hon. George Wright, of California, +and her first representative in Congress, was also +one of our party; and his glowing descriptions of +the auriferous regions kept groups of audience for +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_22" id="Page_22" title="22"></a></span>many an hour. The Rev. Arthur Cleveland Cox, +of Hartford, favorably known as the author of some +pleasant rhymes and sonnets, Mr. Cunningham, a +southern editor, and several retired sea captains, all +contributed to enhance the agreeableness of the +voyage. I am sorry to tell you that, three days +out, we had a sad occurrence in our little world. +Just as we were sitting down to lunch at eight bells, +the machinery stopped for a moment, and we were +informed that William Irwin, one of the assistant +engineers, was crushed to death. He accidentally +slipped from his position, and was killed instantaneously. +In less than half an hour he was sewed +up in canvas, and all hands called to attend his +funeral services! The poor fellow was laid upon +a plank covered with the American flag, and placed +at the wheel-house. The service was performed by +Mr. Cox, in full canonicals; and I can assure you +that the white-robed priest, as he issued from the +cabin and ascended the wheel-house, really looked +impressively. At the close, he was committed to the +deep. What food for thought was here! A man +in health and at life's daily task,—alive,—dead,—and +buried,—all these conditions of his state +crowded into thirty minutes! The poor man had a +mother who was dependent upon him. Dr. Choules +drew up a subscription paper for her benefit, and +nearly five hundred dollars were at once raised for +<!-- <span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_23" id="Page_23" title="23"></a></span> +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_24" id="Page_24" title="24"></a></span> --> +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_25" id="Page_25" title="25"></a></span> +her relief. This unhappy event, of course, gave a +sad damper to the joyous feelings which existed on +board, and which were excited by our fine weather +and rapid headway. On Sunday we had two sermons +in the cabin to large congregations, all the +passengers attending, with the officers and many +of the crew. The morning service was by Dr. +Choules, and the evening one by Mr. Cox.</p> + + +<p><br /></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a name="FOUR_POSITIONS_OF_AN_ICEBERG" id="FOUR_POSITIONS_OF_AN_ICEBERG"></a> +<a href="images/pg027.png"><img src="images/pg027.png" width="400" height="167" alt="Four Positions of an Iceberg, seen 6th of April. Estimated Height, 300 feet. Lat. 43.04; long. 53.11; at Noon." title="Four Positions of an Iceberg, seen 6th of April. Estimated Height, 300 feet. Lat. 43.04; long. 53.11; at Noon." /></a> +<span class="caption">Four Positions of an Iceberg, seen 6th of April. Estimated Height, 300 feet. Lat. 43.04; long. 53.11; at Noon.</span> +</div> +<p><br /></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a name="ICEBERGS_SEEN_FROM_THE_STEAMSHIP" id="ICEBERGS_SEEN_FROM_THE_STEAMSHIP"></a> +<a href="images/pg027-2.png"><img src="images/pg027-2.png" width="400" height="85" alt="Icebergs seen from the Steamship "Arctic," on the Voyage from New York to Liverpool, April 6, 1851." title="Icebergs seen from the Steamship "Arctic," on the Voyage from New York to Liverpool, April 6, 1851." /></a> +<span class="caption">Icebergs seen from the Steamship "Arctic," on the Voyage from New York to Liverpool, April 6, 1851.</span> +</div> +<p><br /></p> + +<p class="text">In the afternoon, April 6, we had the gratification +to see a magnificent iceberg. We were in lat. 43° +4', lon. 53° 11' at twelve o'clock, and at three the +ice appeared at about ten miles' distance. The estimated +height was about three hundred feet. One +if the passengers took a sketch. I also made one, +and have laid it aside for your inspection.</p> + +<p class="text">The berg had much the appearance of the gable +end of a large house, and at some little distance +there was another, of tower-like aspect, and much +resembling a light-house. The effect of the sun +upon it, as we saw it in various positions, was +exceedingly fine. On Monday, the 7th, we saw a +much larger one, with several small ones as neighbors. +This was probably one mile in length, and +about two hundred feet high.</p> + +<p class="text">We saw several whales frolicking at the distance +of a mile, and distinctly saw them spout at short +intervals.</p> + +<p class="text">After having had all reason to hope for a ten-day +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_26" id="Page_26" title="26"></a></span>passage, we were annoyed for four or five days with +head winds, materially retarding our headway. The +evenings of the voyage were generally spent on +deck, where we had charming concerts. Seldom +have I heard better singing than we were favored +with by eight or ten ladies and gentlemen. One +universal favorite was the beautiful piece, "Far, far +at sea." On Sunday, the 13th, just after morning +service, conducted by Mr. Cox, we made Mizzen +Head, and obtained a magnificent view of the north +coast of Ireland, which was far more beautiful +than we had expected. The coast is very bold, +and the cliffs precipitous, in many places strongly +reminding us of the high lands of the Hudson. A +more exquisite treat than that which we enjoyed all +the afternoon in looking on the Irish coast I can +hardly imagine. At night we had a closing service, +and Dr. Choules preached. Every one seemed to +feel that we had cause for thankfulness that we +had been brought in safety across the ocean, and +under so many circumstances of enjoyment We +have made acquaintances that are truly valuable, +and some of them I hope to cultivate in future life. +One of the great advantages of travel, Charles, +seems to be, that it enables us to compare men of +other places than those we live in with our former +acquaintances. It brings us into intercourse with +those who have had a different training and educa<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_27" id="Page_27" title="27"></a></span>tion +than our own; and I think a man or boy must +be pretty thoroughly conceited who does not often +find out his own inferiority to many with whom he +chances to meet. On board our ship are several +young men of fine attainments, who, engaged in mechanical +business, are going out to obtain improvement +and instruction by a careful study of the great +exhibition. A number of gentlemen with us are +young merchants, who represent houses in our great +cities, and go to England and France twice and +three times every year. Some of these are thoroughly +accomplished men, and, wherever they go, +will reflect credit upon their country. In no country, +perhaps, do young men assume important trusts +in commercial life at so early a period as in America. +I have heard one or two Englishmen on board +express their surprise at finding large business operations +intrusted to young men of twenty and twenty-one; +and yet there are some such with us who are +making their second and third trips to Manchester, +Leeds, Paisley, and Paris, for the selection of goods.</p> + +<p class="text">I ought to tell you that, on the last day of the +voyage, we had a great meeting in the cabin, Mr. +Goodrich in the chair, for the purpose of expressing +the satisfaction of the passengers with the Arctic, +her captain, officers, and engineer. Several good +speeches were made, and some resolutions passed. +This has become so ordinary an affair at the termi<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_28" id="Page_28" title="28"></a></span>nation +of a passage, as to have lost much of its +original value; but as this ship had an unusual +number of passengers, many of them well known +to their fellow-countrymen, and as great opposition +had been displayed, on both sides of the ocean, to +this line of steamers, it was thought suitable to +express our views in relation to this particular ship +and the great undertaking with which she is identified. +Every man on board was satisfied that, in +safety, these ships are equal to the Cunard line; +while in comfort, accommodation, size, and splendor +they far surpass their rivals. It really seems +strange to us that Americans should think of making +the ocean trip in an English steamship, when their +own country has a noble experiment in trial, the +success of which alone depends upon the patriotism +and spirit of her citizens. The English on board +are forced to confess that our ship and the line are +all that can be asked, and I think that pretty strong +prejudices have been conquered by this voyage. +Every one left the ship with sentiments of respect +to Captain Luce, who, I assure you, we found to be +a very kind friend, and we shall all of us be glad +to meet him again on ship or shore.</p> + +<p class="text">On Monday, the 14th, at three o'clock, we took +our pilot, and at eight o'clock we anchored off Liverpool, +and a dark-looking steamtug came off to +us for the mails, foreign ministers, and bearers of +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_29" id="Page_29" title="29"></a></span>despatches. As we came under the wing of one of +the last-named class of favored individuals, we took +our luggage, and proceeded straight to the Adelphi +Hotel. I ought to say that James was the first to +quit the ship and plant his foot on Old England. It +was quite strange to see it so light at half past eight +o'clock, although it was a rainy evening. I shall +not soon forget the cheerful appearance of the +Adelphi, which, in all its provisions for comfort, +both in the coffee-room and our chambers, struck +me more favorably than any hotel I had ever seen. +Although our state-room on board the Arctic was +one of the extra size and every thing that was nice, +yet I long for the conveniences of a bed-chamber +and a warm bath. I am quite disposed to join +with the poor Irish woman who had made a steerage +passage from New York to Liverpool in a packet +ship; and when landed at St. George's pier, and +seated on her trunk, a lady who had also landed, +when getting into her carriage, said, "Well, my +good woman, I suppose you are very glad to get +out of the ship?" Her reply was, "And indeed, my +lady, every bone in my body cries out <i>feathers!</i>"</p> + + +<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">weld.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_30" id="Page_30" title="30"></a></span></p> +<h2><a name="Letter_3" id="Letter_3"></a>Letter 3.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Liverpool.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">Well, we have fairly commenced our travel, and +yet I can scarcely realize the fact that I am here in +Old England, and that, for some months at least, I +shall be away from home and the occupations of the +school-room. The next day after landing we went +to the custom-house to see our fellow-passengers pass +their effects, and really felt glad to think of our +good fortune in landing every thing at night and +direct from the ship. It was an exciting scene, +and I was not a little amused to observe the +anxiety of the gentlemen to save their cigars from +the duty imposed, and which amounts to nine shillings +sterling per pound. All sorts of contrivances +were in vogue, and the experiences of men were +various, the man with one hundred, perhaps, being +brought up, while his neighbor with five hundred +passed off successfully, and, as he cleared the building, +seemed disposed to place his finger on the +prominent feature of his face.</p> + +<p class="text">I quite like the appearance of Liverpool. After +walking through the principal streets and making a +general survey of the shops,—no one speaks of +<i>store</i>,—I think I can testify to the extraordinary +cleanness of the city, and the massiveness and grandeur +of the public buildings.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_31" id="Page_31" title="31"></a></span>Our attention was first directed to the cemetery +which had been described, you remember, to us one +evening in the study. It is on the confines of the +city, and is made but of an old quarry. I liked it +better than any cemetery I ever saw; it is unlike all +I had seen, and, though comparatively small, is very +picturesque, I may almost say romantic. The walls +are lofty, and are devoted to spacious tombs, and the +groundwork abounds in garden shrubbery and labyrinth. +Some of the monuments are striking. The +access to this resting-place is by a steep cut through +the rock, and you pass under an archway of the +most imposing character. At the entrance of the +cemetery is a neat chapel, and the officiating minister +has a dwelling-house near the gate.</p> + +<p class="text">I wish you could see a building now in progress, +and which has taken twelve or fourteen years to +erect, and from its appearance will not, I suppose, +be finished in four or five more. It is called St. +George's Hall. The intent is to furnish suitable accommodations +for the various law courts, and also to +contain the finest ball-room in Europe. It is in a +commanding position. I know little of architecture, +but this building strikes me as one of exquisite +beauty. We obtained an order from the mayor to +be shown over it and examine the works, and we +enjoyed it very much. The great hall will be without +a rival in England. The town hall is a noble +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_32" id="Page_32" title="32"></a></span>edifice, and the people are quite proud of it. The +interior is finely laid out, and has some spacious +rooms for the civic revelries of the fathers of the +town. The good woman who showed us round feels +complacently enough as she explains the uses of the +rooms. The ball-room is ninety feet by forty-six, and +forty feet high. The dining and drawing-rooms are +spacious apartments. On the grand staircase is a +noble statue of George Canning, by Chantrey, +whose beautiful one of Washington we have so often +admired in the Boston State House. In the building +are some good paintings of the late kings; one +or two by Sir Thomas Lawrence. The Exchange +is directly behind the hall, and contains in the centre +a glorious bronze monument to Lord Nelson, the +joint production of Wyat and Westmacott. Death +is laying his hand upon the hero's heart, and Victory +is placing a fourth crown on his sword. Ever since +I read Southey's Life of Nelson, I have felt an interest +in every thing relating to this great; yet imperfect +man. You know that illustrated work on +Nelson that we have so often looked at it contains +a large engraving of this monument. As Yankee +boys, we found our way to the top of the Exchange, +to look at the cotton sales-room. This same room +has more to do with our good friends at the south +than any other in the world. The atmosphere +would have been chilly to a Georgian planter, as +cotton was down—down.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_33" id="Page_33" title="33"></a></span>The Necropolis is a very spacious burying-place, +open to all classes, and where persons can be interred +with the use of any form desired. The gateway is +of stone, and not unlike the granite one at Mount +Auburn; and on one side is a chapel, and on the +other a house for the register. Not far from this +we came to the Zoölogical Gardens, kept in excellent +order, and where is a good collection of animals, +birds, &c. The Collegiate Institution is an +imposing structure in the Tudor style.</p> + +<p class="text">St. George's Church, which stands at the head of +Lord Street, occupies the position of the old castle, +destroyed, I believe, more than one hundred and +fifty years ago, and is a very graceful termination to +one of the best business avenues of the city. Several +of the churches and chapels are in good style. +But one of the best buildings is—as it should be, in +a city like this—the Sailor's Home, not far from the +Custom House. This is a highly-ornamented house, +and would adorn any city of the world.</p> + +<p class="text">The Custom House is thought to be one of the +finest buildings in the kingdom. It occupied ten +years in its erection. It is composed of three <i>façades</i>, +from a rusticated pavement, each having a +splendid portico of eight Ionic columns. The +whole is surmounted by a dome, one hundred and +thirty feet high, and the effect of the building +is excellent. The glory of Liverpool is her +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_34" id="Page_34" title="34"></a></span>docks, and a stranger is sure to be pointed to the +great landing stage, an immense floating pier, which +was moored into its present position on the 1st of +June, 1847. This stage is five hundred and seven +feet long, and over eighty feet wide. This mass of +timber floats upon pontoons, which have to support +more than two thousand tons. At each end is a +light barge.</p> + +<p class="text">In the Clarence dock are to be found the Irish +and coasting steamers, and to the north are the +Trafalgar, Victoria, and Waterloo docks; the Prince's +dock, and the Great Prince's dock basin. On the +outside of all these is a fine parade, of about one half +a mile, and which affords one of the most beautiful +marine promenades in the world, and gives an interesting +view of the Cheshire shore, opposite the city. +The Prince's dock is five hundred yards long, and +one hundred broad. Vessels, on arriving, discharge +on the east side, and take in cargo on the west. +Besides all these there is the Brunswick dock, Queen's +dock, Duke's dock, Salthouse dock, &c.</p> + +<p class="text">The Royal Liverpool Institution is a great benefit +to the inhabitants. It has a good library, fine collections +of paintings, and a good museum of natural +history. Many of these paintings belong to the +early masters, and date even before the fifteenth +century. We were interested to find here a complete +set of casts of the Elgin marbles. The origi<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_35" id="Page_35" title="35"></a></span>nals +were the decorations of the Parthenon at +Athens, and are now in the British Museum. As +we shall spend some time in that collection, I say no +more at present about these wonderful monuments +of genius. The Athenæum and the Lyceum are +both fine buildings, and each has a good library, +lecture, and news rooms.</p> + +<p class="text">We were disappointed at finding the Rev. Dr. +Raffles, the most eloquent preacher of the city, out +of town. He was the successor of Spencer, who +was drowned bathing in the Mersey, and his Life by +Raffles is one of deep interest. The great historical +name of Liverpool is William Roscoe, the +author of the Lives of Leo X. and the Medici. I +must not omit to tell you that, during our stay, the +town was all alive with a regiment of lancers, just +arrived from Ireland, on their way to London. They +are indeed fine-looking fellows, and are mounted on +capital horses. I have watched their evolutions in +front of the Adelphi with much pleasure, and have +been amused to notice a collection of the most +wretched-looking boys I ever saw, brought together +by the troops. There seems to me more pauperism +this week, in Liverpool, than I ever saw in New +York in my life.</p> + + +<p class="center">Truly yours,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">james.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_36" id="Page_36" title="36"></a></span></p> +<h2><a name="Letter_4" id="Letter_4"></a>Letter 4.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">Does it not seem strange that I am here in London? +I can hardly tell what to write about first. +I stand at the door of our hotel and look at the +crowds in the streets, and then at old King Charles, +at Charing Cross, directly across the road, and when I +think that this is the old city where Wat Tyler figured, +and Whittington was lord mayor, and Lady Jane Grey +was beheaded, and where the Tower is still to be +seen, I am half beside myself, and want to do +nothing but roam about for a good month to come. +I have read so much concerning London, that I am +pretty sure I know more about it than many of the +boys who have heard Bow Church bells all their +lives. We left Liverpool for Birmingham, where we +passed an afternoon and evening in the family of a +manufacturer very pleasantly, and at ten o'clock took +the express mail train for London. We are staying +at a hotel called the Golden Cross, Charing Cross. +We have our breakfast in the coffee-room, and then +dine as it suits our convenience as to place and +hour. We spent one day in riding about the city, +and I think we got quite an idea of the great streets.</p> + +<p class="text">The Strand is a very fine business street, perhaps +a mile long. It widens in one part, and has two +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_37" id="Page_37" title="37"></a></span>churches in the middle of it, and a narrow street +seems built inside it at one place, as nasty, dirty a lane +as I ever saw, called Hollowell Street. I was very +much delighted at the end of the Strand to see old +Temple Bar, which is the entrance to the city +proper, and which divides Fleet Street from the +Strand. It is a noble archway, with small side +arches for foot passengers. The head of many a +poor fellow, and the quarters of men called traitors, +have been fastened over this gateway in former times.</p> + +<p class="text">Dr. Johnson was once walking in Westminster +Abbey with Goldsmith, and as they were looking at +the Poet's Corner, Johnson said to his friend,—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"Forsitan et nostrum nomen miscebitur istis."</p></div> + +<p class="text">When they had walked on to Temple Bar, Goldsmith +stopped Johnson, and pointed to the heads of +Fletcher and Townley, hanging above, and slyly +remarked,—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"Forsitan et nostrum nomen miscebitur <i>istis</i>."</p></div> + +<p class="text">I suppose you remember that the great dictionary +man was a Jacobite in his heart.</p> + +<p class="text">The present bar was put up in 1670, and was +designed by Sir Christopher Wren. The statues +on the sides, which are towards the city, are those of +Queen Elizabeth and James I.; and towards the +Strand, those of Charles I. and Charles II. They +stand in niches.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_38" id="Page_38" title="38"></a></span>Whenever the monarch passes into the city, there +is much ceremony takes place at the bar. The gates +are closed, a herald sounds a trumpet and knocks +for entrance, the gates are opened, and the lord +mayor of London presents the sword of the city to +the sovereign, who returns it to his lordship. The +upper part of the bar is used by Messrs. Childs, the +bankers, as a store room for their past account +books.</p> + +<p class="text">Fleet Street is thronged with passengers and carriages +of all sorts. Just a few doors from the bar, +on the right-hand side, is a gayly-painted front, which +claims to have been a palace of Henry VIII. and the +residence of Cardinal Wolsey. It is now used as a +hair-cutting shop, up stairs. We went up and examined +the panelled ceiling, said to be just as it +used to be. It is certainly very fine, and looks as +if it were as old as the times of bluff Harry. Of +course we had our hair cut in the old palace.</p> + +<p class="text">We followed through Fleet Street, noticing the +offices of Punch and the London Illustrated News, +till we came to Ludgate Hill,—rather an ascent,—which +is the direct way to the Cathedral Church of +St. Paul's. It stands directly in front of Ludgate +Hill, and the churchyard occupies a large space, +and the streets open on each side, making a sort of +square called Paul's Churchyard, and then at the +rear you go into Cheapside. We looked with +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_39" id="Page_39" title="39"></a></span>interest, I can tell you, at Bow Church, and, as the +old bells were ringing, I tried to listen if I could +hear what Whittington heard once from their tingling—"Turn +again, Whittington, lord mayor, of +London." At the end of this street, on the right +hand, is the lord mayor's house, called the Mansion +House, and directly in front of the street, closing it +up, and making it break off, is the Royal Exchange; +whilst at the left is the Bank of England. All these +are very noble-looking buildings, and you will hear +about them from us as we examine them in our +future walks. We went to the counting-house of +Messrs. Baring & Co., the great merchants and bankers +for so many Americans, and there we found our +letters and got some money. Mr. Sturgis, one of +the partners, told us to take the check to the bank, +No. 68 Lombard Street, and informed us that was the +very house where the great merchant of Queen Elizabeth's +time—Sir Thomas Gresham—used to live. +He built the first London Exchange, and his sign, +a large grasshopper, is still preserved at the bank. +On Good Friday we had bunns for breakfast, with a +cross upon them, and they were sold through the +streets by children, crying "One a penny, two a penny, +hot cross bunns." We took a carriage and rode to +Camden town to visit a friend; thence we took the +cars, to Hackney, and called on the Rev. Dr. Cox, +who some fifteen years ago made the tour of the +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_40" id="Page_40" title="40"></a></span>United States, and wrote a volume on our country. +We then returned to London, and took our dinner +at the London Coffee House, Ludgate Hill. This +has been a very celebrated house for one hundred +years, and figures largely in the books of travellers +fifty years ago. It has a high reputation still, and +every thing was excellent, and the waiting good. +You cannot walk about London without observing +how few boys of our age are to be seen in the +streets, and when we asked the reason, we were told +that nearly all the lads of respectable families were +sent to boarding schools, and the vacations only +occur at June and December; then the boys return +home, and the city swarms with them at all the +places of amusement. We seemed to be objects +of attention, because we wore caps; (here boys all +wear hats;) and then our gilt buttons on blue jackets +led many to suppose that we were midshipmen. The +omnibuses are very numerous, and each one has a +conductor, who stands on a high step on the left side +of the door, watching the sidewalks and crying out +the destination of the "bus," as the vehicle is called. +There is a continual cry, "Bank, bank," "Cross, +cross," "City, city," &c. I must not forget to tell +you one thing; and that is, London is the place to +make a sight-seeing boy very tired, and I am quite +sure that, in ten minutes, I shall be unable to do +what I can now very heartily, viz., assure you that</p> + +<p class="center">I am yours, affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">george.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_41" id="Page_41" title="41"></a></span></p> +<h2><a name="Letter_5" id="Letter_5"></a>Letter 5.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">After passing a day or two in a general view of the +city, and making some preliminary arrangements for +our future movements, we all called upon Mr. Lawrence, +the minister of our country at the court of +St. James, which expression refers to the appellation +of the old palace of George III. Mr. Lawrence +resides in Piccadilly, opposite the St. James's Park, +in a very splendid mansion, which he rents from an +English nobleman, all furnished. We were very +kindly received by his excellency, who expressed +much pleasure at seeing his young countrymen coming +abroad, and said he was fond of boys, and liked +them as travelling companions. I handed him a +letter of introduction from his brother. Mr. Lawrence +offered us all the facilities in his power to see +the sights, and these are great, for he is furnished +by the government of England with orders which +will admit parties to almost every thing in and about +London. Amongst other tickets he gave us the following +admissions: to the Queen's stables, Windsor +Castle, Dulwich Gallery, Woolwich Arsenal, Navy +Yard, Sion House, Northumberland House, Houses of +Parliament, and, what we highly valued, an admission +to enter the exhibition, which is yet unfinished, +and not open to inspection.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_42" id="Page_42" title="42"></a></span>After leaving the minister, we paid our respects to +Mr. Davis, the secretary of legation, and were +kindly received. We walked on from Piccadilly +to the Crystal Palace, passing Apsley House, the +residence of the Duke of Wellington, and soon +reached Hyde Park, with its famous gateway and +the far-famed statue of "the duke." As we shall +go into some detailed account of the palace after +the exhibition opens, I would only say, that we were +exceedingly surprised and delighted with the building +itself, and were so taken up with that as hardly +to look at its contents, which were now rapidly getting +into order. The effect of the noble elms which +are covered up in the palace is very striking and +pleasing, and very naturally suggests the idea that +the house would, by and by, make a glorious green-house +for the city, where winter's discontents might +be almost made into a "glorious summer." A poor +fellow was killed here, just before we entered, by falling +through the skylight roof. He was at work on a +plank laid across the iron frame, and that tipping up, +threw him on to the glass, and his death was instantaneous. +We are more and more pleased at having +so central a domicile as the Golden Cross, for time is +every thing when you have to see sights; and here +we can get to any point we desire by a bus, and +obtain a fly at any moment. Very much that we +desire to see, too, is east of Temple Bar, and our +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_43" id="Page_43" title="43"></a></span>Mentor seems determined that we shall become acquainted +with the London of other times, and we +rarely walk out without learning who lived in "that +house," and what event had happened in "that +street." I fancy that we are going to gather up +much curious matter for future use and recollection +by our street wanderings. A book called "The +Streets of London" is our frequent study, and is +daily consulted with advantage. To-day we dined at +the famous Williams's, in Old Bailey, where boiled +beef is said to be better than at any other place +in London. It was certainly as fine as could be +desired. The customers were numerous, and looked +like business men. The proprietor was a busy man, +and his eyes seemed every where. A vision of +cockroaches, however, dispelled the appetite for a +dessert, and we perambulated our way to the Monument. +This has a noble appearance, and stands +on Fish Street Hill. The pillar is two hundred and +two feet high, and is surmounted by a gilt flame. +The object of the Monument is to commemorate the +great fire of London in Charles II.'s reign.</p> + +<p class="text">It had an inscription which ascribed the origin +of the fire to the Catholics; but recently this has +been obliterated. It was to this inscription and +allegation that Pope referred in his lines,—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>"Where London's column, pointing to the skies, +Like a tall bully, lifts its head, and <i>lies</i>."</p> +</div> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_44" id="Page_44" title="44"></a></span>There are few things in London that have impressed +us more than the fine, massive bridges which +span the Thames, and are so crowded with foot +passengers and carriages. Every boy who has read +much has had his head full of notions about London +Bridge; that is, old London Bridge, which was +taken down about thirty years ago. The old bridge +was originally a wooden structure, and on the sides +of the bridge were houses, and the pathway in front +had all sorts of goods exposed for sale, and the +Southwark gate of the bridge was disfigured with +the heads and quarters of the poor creatures who +were executed for treason.</p> + +<p class="text">The new bridge was commenced in 1825, and it +was opened in 1831 by William IV. and Queen +Adelaide. The bridge has five arches; the central +one is one hundred and fifty feet in the clear, the +two next one hundred and forty feet, and the extreme +arches one hundred and thirty feet. The +length, including the abutments, is about one thousand +feet, its width eighty-three feet, and the road +for carriages fifty-five feet.</p> + +<p class="text">The great roads leading to London Bridge have +been most costly affairs; and I was told that a +<i>parish and its church</i> had been destroyed to make +these approaches. The men of different generations, +who, for almost one thousand years, looked at the +old bridge, would stare at the present one and its +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_45" id="Page_45" title="45"></a></span>present vicinity, if they were to come back again. +Southwark Bridge was commenced in 1814, and +finished in 1819. It has three arches, and the central +arch is two hundred and forty feet, which is the +greatest span in the world. In this bridge are five +thousand three hundred and eight tons of iron. +Blackfriars Bridge was commenced in 1760, and +opened in 1770. It has nine elliptical arches, of +which the middle one is one hundred feet in width. +Recently this bridge has been thoroughly repaired. +I think this is my favorite stand-point for the river +and city. Nowhere else have I obtained such a +view up and down the river. Here I have a full +prospect of the Tower, St. Paul's Cathedral, Somerset +House, the Houses of Parliament, Westminster +Abbey, and perhaps twenty-five other churches! +But the great bridge of all is the Waterloo one, +commenced in 1811, and opened in 1817, on the 18th +of June, the anniversary of the battle of Waterloo. +Of course, the Duke of Wellington figured upon the +occasion. At this point the river is one thousand +three hundred and twenty-six feet wide; and the +bridge is of nine elliptical arches, each of one hundred +and twenty feet space, and thirty-five feet high +above high water, and its entire length two thousand +four hundred and fifty-six feet. It is painful to hear +the sad stories which have a connection with this +magnificent structure. It seems the chosen resort +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_46" id="Page_46" title="46"></a></span>of London suicides, and very frequent are the events +which almost justify its appellation—"the Bridge +of Sighs." I love to walk this and the other +bridges, and look at the mighty city, and think of +its wonderful history and its existing place in the +affairs of the world; and I cannot help thinking of +the reflection of the wise man—"One generation +passeth away, but the earth remaineth." I have +never felt my own insignificance so much, Charley, +as when walking in one of these crowded streets. +I know no one; I am unknown; I am in solitude, +and feel it more, perhaps, than I should if alone +upon a mountain top or in a wilderness. I am +sure I have told you enough for once, and perhaps +you are as tired of my letter as I was in going over +the places I have written to you about; so I will +relieve your patience.</p> + +<p class="center">I am yours always,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">weld.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_6" id="Letter_6"></a>Letter 6.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">All round London there are the most exquisite +villages or towns, full of charming retreats, boxes of +wealthy tradesmen, and some very fine rows of brick +and stone residences, with gardens in front. I am +amused to see almost every house having a name. +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_47" id="Page_47" title="47"></a></span>Thus you find one house called, on the gateway, +Hamilton Villa, the next Hawthorne Lodge, whilst +opposite their fellows rejoice in the names, Pelham +House, Cranborne Cottage; and so it is with hundreds +of neat little domiciles. I think the road up +to St. John's Wood is one of the prettiest I have +seen; and there are in it perhaps two hundred habitations, +each having its <i>sobriquet.</i> Since writing +to you last we have been to Camberwell, a very +pretty place, two or three miles from the city. We +called on a gentleman who had a party that night, +and we were politely invited, and spent an agreeable +evening. The supper was elegant, and the ladies +were quite inquisitive as to our social manners. +One gentleman present had a son in Wisconsin, and +he seemed to fancy that, as that state was in the +United States, it was pretty much like the rest of +the country. We told him that Wisconsin was +about as much like New York and Massachusetts +as Brighton, in 1851, was like what it was one hundred +years ago. When we talk with well-educated +persons here, we are much amused at their entire +unacquaintedness with American geography and +history. I think an importation of Morse's School +Geography would be of great service. We very +often lose our patience when we hear about the +great danger of life in America. I find very intelligent +and respectable persons who fancy that life is +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_48" id="Page_48" title="48"></a></span>held by a slight tenure in the Union, and that law +and order are almost unknown. Now, the first +week we were in London the papers teemed with +accounts of murders in various parts of England. +One newspaper detailed no less than eleven oases +of murder, or executions on account of murders. +Poison, however, seems just at present the prevailing +method by which men and women are removed.</p> + +<p class="text">As to accidents in travel, we, no doubt, have our +full share; but since our arrival in England the +railroad trains have had some pretty rough shakings, +and the results in loss of life and limb would have +passed for quite ugly enough, even had they happened +in the west. I very much wish you could +have been with us on Easter Monday, when we +passed the day at Greenwich, and were at the renowned +Greenwich Fair, which lasts for three days. +The scene of revelry takes place in the Park, a +royal one, and really a noble one. Here all the riff-raff +and bobtail of London repair in their finery, +and have a time. You can form no notion of the +affair; it cannot be described. The upper part of +the Park, towards the Royal Observatory, is very +steep, and down this boys and girls, men and women, +have a roll. Such scenes as are here to be witnessed +we cannot match. Nothing can exceed the +doings that occur. All the public houses swarm, +and in no spot have I ever seen so many places for +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_49" id="Page_49" title="49"></a></span>drinking as are here. The working-men of London, +and apprentices, with wires and sweethearts, +all turn out Easter Monday. It seems as though all +the horses, carts, chaises, and hackney coaches of +the city were on the road. We saw several enormous +coal wagons crammed tightly with boys and +girls. On the fine heath, or down, that skirts the +Park, are hundreds of donkeys, and you are invited +to take a halfpenny, penny, or twopenny ride. All +sorts of gambling are to be seen. One favorite +game with the youngsters was to have a tobacco +box, full of coppers, stuck on a stick standing in a +hole, and then, for a halfpenny paid to the proprietor, +you are entitled to take a shy at the mark. If +it falls into the hole, you lose; if you knock it off, +and away from the hole, you take it. It <i>requires,</i> I +fancy, much adroitness and experience to make any +thing at "shying" at the "bacca box." At night, +Greenwich is all alive—life is out of London and +in the fair. But let the traveller who has to return +to town beware. The road is full of horses and +vehicles, driven by drunken men and boys; and, for +four or five miles, you can imagine that a city is besieged, +and that the inhabitants are flying from the +sword. O, such weary-looking children as we saw +that day! One favorite amusement was to draw a +little wooden instrument quick over the coat of +another person, when it produces a noise precisely +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_50" id="Page_50" title="50"></a></span>like that of a torn garment. Hundreds of these +machines were in the hands of the urchins who +crowded the Park. Here, for the first time, I saw +the veritable gypsy of whose race we have read so +much in Bòrrow's Zincali. The women are very +fine looking, and some of the girls were exquisitely +beautiful. They are a swarthy-looking set, and +seem to be a cross of Indian and Jew. Those we +saw were proper wiry-looking fellows. One or two +of the men were nattily dressed, with fancy silk +handkerchiefs. They live in tents, and migrate +through the midland counties, but I believe are not +as numerous as they were thirty years ago. You +will not soon forget how we were pleased with the +memoirs of Bamfield Moore Carew, who was once +known as their king in Great Britain. I wonder +that book has never been reprinted in America. I +am pretty sure that Greenwich Park would please +your taste. I think the view from the Royal Observatory, +and from whence longitude is reckoned, is +one of the grandest I have ever seen. You get a +fine view of the noble palace once the royal residence, +but now the Sailor's Home. You see the Thames, +with its immense burden, and, through the mist, the +great city. As to the Hospital, we shall leave that +for another excursion: we came to Greenwich at +present merely to witness Easter Fair, and it will +not soon be forgotten by any of us.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours, &c.,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">james.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_51" id="Page_51" title="51"></a></span></p> +<h2><a name="Letter_7" id="Letter_7"></a>Letter 7.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Bristol.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">As we had a few days to spare before the exhibition +opened, we proposed to run down to Bristol +and Bath, and pass a week. We took the Great +Western train first-class ears, and made the journey +of one hundred and twenty miles in two hours and +forty minutes. This is the perfection of travelling. +The cars are very commodious, holding eight persons, +each having a nicely-cushioned chair. The +rail is the broad gage; and we hardly felt the motion, +so excellent is the road. The country through +which we passed was very beautiful, and perhaps it +never appears to more advantage than in the gay +garniture of spring. We left Windsor Castle to +our left, and Eton College, and passed by Beading, +a fine, flourishing town; and at Swindon we made a +stay of ten minutes. The station at this place is +very spacious and elegant. Here the passengers +have the only opportunity to obtain refreshments on +the route; and never did people seem more intent +upon laying in provender. The table was finely +laid out, and a great variety tempted the appetite. +The railroad company, when they leased this station, +stipulated that every train should pass ten minutes +at it. But the express train claimed exemption, +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_52" id="Page_52" title="52"></a></span>and refused to afford the time. The landlord prosecuted +the company, obtained satisfactory damages, +and now even the express train affords its passengers +time to recruit at Swindon. This place has +grown up under the auspices of the railroad, and +one can hardly fancy a prettier place than environs +the station. The cottages are of stone, of the Elizabethan +and Tudor style, and are very numerous; +while the church, which is just finished, is one of the +neatest affairs I have yet seen in England. The +town of Swindon is about two miles from the station, +and I expect to visit it in the course of my journey. +You know, my dear Charley, how long and fondly +I have anticipated my visit to my native city, and +can imagine my feelings on this route homewards. +We passed through Bath, a most beautiful city, (and +I think as beautiful as any I ever saw,) and then in +half an hour we entered Bristol. The splendid +station-house of the railroad was new to me, but +the old streets and houses were all familiar as if +they had been left but yesterday. The next morning +I called on my friends, and you may think how +sad my disappointment was to find that a dangerous +accident had just placed my nearest relative in the +chamber of painful confinement for probably three +months. It was a pleasant thing to come home to +scenes of childhood and youth, and I was prepared +to enjoy every hour; but I soon realized that here +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_53" id="Page_53" title="53"></a></span>all our roses have thorns. Of course, in Bristol I +need no guide; and the boys are, I assure you, +pretty thoroughly fagged out, when night comes, +with our perambulations through the old city and +neighborhood.</p> + +<p class="text">Bristol has claims upon the attention of the +stranger, not only as one of the oldest cities in England, +but on account of its romantic scenery. The +banks of the Avon are not to be surpassed by the +scenes afforded by any other river of its size in the +world. This city was founded by Brennus, the +chieftain of the Gauls and the conqueror of Rome, +388 B.C., and tradition states that his brother Belinus +aided him in the work. The statues of these +worthies are quaintly carved on the gateway of +John's Church, in Broad Street, and are of very +great antiquity. In the earliest writings that bear +upon the west of England—the Welsh Chronicles—this +city is called <i>Caër oder</i>, which means the city +of the <i>Chasm</i>. This the Saxons called <i>Clifton</i>. The +Avon runs through a tremendous fissure in the rocks +called Vincent's Rocks; and hence the name given +to the suburbs of the city, on its banks—Clifton. +Of this place we shall have much to tell you. +Another Welsh name for the city was <i>Caër Brito</i>, or +the painted city, or the famous city. Bristol, like +Rome, stands on seven hills, and on every side is +surrounded by the most attractive scenery. It has +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_54" id="Page_54" title="54"></a></span>made quite a figure in history, and its castle was an +object of great importance during the civil wars +between Charles I. and his Parliament. This city +stands in two counties, and has the privileges of one +itself. It is partly in Gloucestershire and partly in +Somersetshire. The population of Bristol, with +Clifton and the Hot Wells, is about two hundred +thousand. My first excursion with the boys was to +Redcliffe Church, which is thought to be the finest +parish church in England. This is the church +where poor Chatterton said that he found the Rowley +MSS. No one of taste visits the city without +repairing to this venerable pile. Its antiquity, beauty +of architecture, and the many interesting events connected +with its history, claim particular notice. This +church was probably commenced about the beginning +of the thirteenth century; but it was completed by +William Cannynge, Sen., mayor of the city, in 1396. +In 1456, the lofty spire was struck by lightning, and +one hundred feet fell upon the south aisle. The +approach from Redcliffe Street is very impressive. +The highly-ornamented tower, the west front of the +church, its unrivalled north porch, and the transept, +with flying buttresses, pinnacles, and parapet, cannot +fail to gratify every beholder. The building stands +on a hill, and is approached by a magnificent flight +of steps, guarded by a heavy balustrade. In length, +the church and the Lady Chapel is two hundred +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_55" id="Page_55" title="55"></a></span>and thirty-nine feet; from north to south of the +cross aisles is one hundred and seventeen feet; the +height of the middle aisle is fifty-four, and of the +north and south aisles, twenty-five feet.</p> + +<p class="text">The impression produced on the spectator by the +interior is that of awe and reverence, as he gazes on +the clustered pillars, the mullioned windows, the +panelled walls, the groined ceilings, decorated with +ribs, tracery, and bosses, all evincing the skill of its +architects and the wonderful capabilities of the +Gothic style.</p> + +<p class="text">The east window and screen have long been hidden +by some large paintings of Hogarth. The subjects +of these are the Ascension, the Three Marys at +the Sepulchre, and the High Priest sealing Christ's +Tomb.</p> + +<p class="text">On a column in the south transept is a flat slab, +with a long inscription, in memory of Sir William +Penn, father of William Penn, the great founder of +Pennsylvania. The column is adorned with his +banner and armor.</p> + +<p class="text">The boys, who had so often read of Guy, Earl +of Warwick, and of his valorous exploits, were +greatly pleased to find in this church, placed against +a pillar, a rib of the Dun cow which he is said to +have slain.</p> + +<p class="text">You may be very sure that we inquired for +the room in which Chatterton said he found old +Monk Rowley's poems. It is an hexagonal room +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_56" id="Page_56" title="56"></a></span>over the north porch, in which the archives were +kept Chatterton's uncle was sexton of the church; +and the boy had access to the building, and carried +off parchments at his pleasure. The idea of making +a literary forgery filled his mind; and if you read +Southey and Cottle's edition of the works of Chatterton, +or, what is far better, an admirable Life of the +young poet by John Dix, a gifted son of Bristol, +now living in America, you will have an interesting +view of the character of this remarkable youth.</p> + +<p><br /></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 349px;"> +<a name="Thomas_Chatterton" id="Thomas_Chatterton"></a> +<a href="images/pg059.png"><img src="images/pg059_th.png" width="349" height="400" alt="Thomas Chatterton." title="Thomas Chatterton." /> +</a><span class="caption">Thomas Chatterton.</span> +</div> +<p><br /></p> + +<p class="text">At the east end of the church is the Chapel of +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_57" id="Page_57" title="57"></a></span>the Virgin Mary. A noble room it is. A large +statue of Queen Elizabeth, in wood, stands against +one of the windows, just where it did thirty-seven +years ago, when I was a youngster, and went to her +majesty's grammar school, which is taught in the +chapel. I showed the boys the names of my old +school-fellows cut upon the desks. How various +their fates! One fine fellow, whose name yet lives +on the wood, found his grave in the West Indies, on +a voyage he had anticipated with great joy.</p> + +<p class="text">I am glad to say that a spirited effort is now +making to restore this gorgeous edifice. It was +greatly needed, and was commenced in 1846. I do +wish you could see this church and gaze upon its +interior. I have obtained some fine drawings of +parts of the edifice, and they will enable you to +form some faint idea of the splendor of the whole. +We have to dine with a friend, and I must close.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">j.o.c.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_8" id="Letter_8"></a>Letter 8.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Bristol.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">You have so often expressed a desire to see +the fine cathedral churches and abbeys of the old +world, that I shall not apologize for giving you +an account of them; and as they are more in my +way, I shall take them into my hands, and let the +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_58" id="Page_58" title="58"></a></span>lads write you about other things. The next visit +we took, after I wrote you last, was to the cathedral. +This is of great antiquity. In 1148, a monastery +was dedicated to St. Augustine. This good man +sent one Jordan as a missionary in 603, and here +he labored faithfully and died. It seems, I think, +well sustained that the venerable Austin himself +preached here, and that his celebrated conference +with the British clergy took place on College Green; +and it is thought that the cathedral was built on its +site to commemorate the event. The vicinity of +the church is pleasing. The Fitzhardings, the +founders of the Berkeley family, began the foundation +of the abbey in 1140, and it was endowed and +dedicated in 1148. The tomb of Sir Robert, the +founder, lies at the east of the door, and is enclosed +with rails. Some of the buildings connected with +the church are of great antiquity, and are probably +quite as old as the body of the cathedral. A gateway +leading to the cloisters and chapter-house is +plainly Saxon, and is regarded as the finest Saxon +archway in England. The western part of the +cathedral was demolished by Henry VIII. The +eastern part, which remains, has a fine Gothic choir. +This was created a bishop's see by Henry VIII. It +is interesting to think that Secker, Butler, and Newton +have all been bishops of this diocese, and Warburton, +who wrote the Divine Legation of Moses, +was once Dean of Bristol. The immortal Butler, +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_59" id="Page_59" title="59"></a></span>who wrote the Analogy of Natural and Revealed +Religion, lies buried here, and his tombstone is on +the south aisle, at the entrance of the choir. A +splendid monument has been erected to his memory, +with the following inscription from the pen of Robert +Southey, himself a Bristolian:—</p> + +<p class="center"> +Sacred<br /> +to the Memory of<br /> +JOSEPH BUTLER, D.C.L.,<br /> +twelve years Bishop of this Diocese,<br /> +afterwards of Durham, whose mortal remains<br /> +are here deposited. Others had established<br /> +the historical and prophetical grounds of the<br /> +Christian Religion, and that true testimony of Truth<br /> +which is found in its perfect adaptation to the heart<br /> +of man. It was reserved for him to develop its<br /> +analogy to the constitution and course of Nature;<br /> +and laying his strong foundations<br /> +in the depth of that great argument,<br /> +there to construct another and<br /> +irrefragable proof; thus rendering<br /> +Philosophy subservient<br /> +to Faith, and finding<br /> +in outward and<br /> +visible things<br /> +the type and evidence of those within the veil.<br /> +Born, A.D. 1693. Died, 1752.<br /> +<br /> +</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_60" id="Page_60" title="60"></a></span>We noticed a very fine monument by Bacon to the +memory of Mrs. Draper, said to have been the Eliza +of Sterne. We hastened to find the world-renowned +tomb of Mrs. Mason, and to read the lines on marble +of that inimitable epitaph, which has acquired a +wider circulation than any other in the world. The +lines were written by her husband, the Rev. William +Mason.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Take, holy earth, all that my soul holds dear;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Take that best gift which Heaven so lately gave.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To Bristol's fount I bore with trembling care<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Her faded form; she bowed to taste the wave,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And died. Does youth, does beauty read the line?<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Does sympathetic fear their breasts alarm?<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Speak, dead Maria; breathe a strain divine;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">E'en from the grave thou shalt have power to charm.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Bid them be chaste, be innocent, like thee;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Bid them in duty's sphere as meekly move;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And if so fair, from vanity as free,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">As firm in friendship, and as fond in love,—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Tell them, though 'tis an awful thing to die,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">(Twas e'en to thee,) yet, the dread path once trod,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Heaven lifts its everlasting portals high,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And bids the pure in heart behold their God."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p class="text">In the cloisters we saw the tomb of Bird the +artist, a royal academician, and a native of Bristol. +We were much interested with a noble bust of Robert +Southey, the poet, which has just been erected +in the north aisle. It stands on an octangular pedestal +of gray marble, with Gothic panels. The bust +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_61" id="Page_61" title="61"></a></span>is of the most exquisitely beautiful marble. The +inscription is in German text.</p> + +<p><br /></p> +<h3>Robert Southey,</h3> +<h4>Born in Bristol,</h4> +<h3>October 4, 1774;</h3> +<h4>Died at Reswick,</h4> +<h3>March 21, 1843.</h3> +<p><br /></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 288px;"> +<a name="Robert_Southey" id="Robert_Southey"></a> +<a href="images/pg064.png"><img src="images/pg064_th.png" width="288" height="400" alt="Robert Southey" title="Robert Southey" /> +</a><span class="caption">Robert Southey</span> +</div> +<p><br /></p> + +<p class="text">The cloisters contain some fine old rooms, which +recall the days of the Tudors. Here we saw the +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_62" id="Page_62" title="62"></a></span>apartments formerly occupied by the learned and +accomplished Dr. Hodges, now organist of Trinity +Church, New York. This gentleman is a native of +Bristol, and is held, we find, in respectful and +affectionate remembrance by the best people of +this city.</p> + +<p class="text">Opposite to the cathedral, and on the other side +of the college green, is the Mayor's Chapel, where +his honor attends divine service. In Catholic days, +this was the Church and Hospital of the Virgin +Mary. This edifice was built by one Maurice +de Gaunt in the thirteenth century. Under the +tower at the east front is a small door, by which +you enter the church, and on the north another, by +which you enter a small room, formerly a confessional, +with two arches in the walls for the priest +and the penitent. In this room are eight niches, in +which images once stood. The roof is vaulted with +freestone, in the centre of which are two curious +shields and many coats of arms. In 1830, this +chapel was restored and beautified. A fine painted +window was added, and the altar screen restored to +its former beauty, at the expense of the corporation. +The front of the organ gallery is very rich in Gothic +moulding, tracery, crockets, &c. It is flanked at +the angles with octagonal turrets, of singular beauty, +embattled, and surmounted with canopies, crockets, +&c. The spandrils, quatrefoils, buttresses, sculp<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_63" id="Page_63" title="63"></a></span>tures, +and cornices are exceedingly admired. The +pulpit is of stone, and the mayor's throne, of +carved oak, is of elaborate finish. Here are two +knights in armor, with their right hands on their +sword hilts, on the left their shields, <i>with their legs +crossed,</i> which indicates that they were crusaders.</p> + +<p class="text">In every excursion around Bristol, the boys were +struck with the fact that an old tower was visible on +a high hill. The hill is called Dundry, and it is +said that it can be seen every where for a circle of +five miles round the city. Dundry is five miles +from Bristol, and fourteen from Bath, and it commands +the most beautiful and extensive prospect in +the west of England. We rode out to it with an +early friend of mine, who is now the leading medical +man of Bristol; and when I tell you that we +went in an Irish jaunting car, you may guess that +we were amused. The seats are at the sides, and +George was in ecstasies at the novelty of the vehicle. +When oh the summit, we saw at the north and east +the cities of Bath and Bristol, and our view included +the hills of Wiltshire, and the Malvern Hills of +Worcestershire. The Severn, from north to west, +is seen, embracing the Welsh coast, and beyond are +the far-famed mountains of Wales. The church +has a fine tower, with turreted pinnacles fifteen feet +above the battlements. We rode over to Chew +Magna, a village two miles beyond Dundry. Here +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_64" id="Page_64" title="64"></a></span>I went to a boarding school thirty-eight years ago, +and I returned to the village for the first time. It +had altered but little. The streets seemed narrower; +but there was the old tower where I had +played fives, and there was the cottage where I +bought fruit; and when I entered it, Charley, I +found "young Mr. Batt"-a man of eighty-six. +His father used to be "old Mr. Batt," and he +always called his son his "boy," and we boys +termed him "young Mr. Batt." I came back and +found him eighty-six. So do years fly away. I +called on one old school-fellow, some years my +junior. He did not recognize me, but I at once +remembered him. We partook of a lunch at his +house. I was sadly disappointed to find the old +boarding school gone, but was not a little relieved +when I heard that it had given place to a Baptist +church. I confess I should have liked to occupy +its pulpit for one Sabbath day. To-morrow we are +to spend at Clifton, the beautiful environ of Bristol, +and shall most likely write you again.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">j.o.c.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_65" id="Page_65" title="65"></a></span></p> +<h2><a name="Letter_9" id="Letter_9"></a>Letter 9.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Bristol.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">Clifton and the Hot Wells are the suburbs of +this city, extending along for a mile or two on the +banks of the Avon. One mile below the city the +Avon passes between the rocks which are known as +St. Vincent's on the one side, and Leigh Woods upon +the opposite one. These rocks are amongst the +sublimities of nature, and the Avon for about three +miles presents the wildest and sweetest bit of scenery +imaginable. These cliffs have been for ages the admiration +of all beholders, and though thousands of +tons are taken from the quarries every year, yet the +inhabitants say that no great change takes place in +their appearance. The Avon has a prodigious rise +of tide at Bristol, and at low water the bed of the +river is a mere brook, with immense banks of mud. +The country all around is exquisitely attractive, and +affords us an idea of cultivation and adornment +beyond what we are accustomed to at home. In +these rocks are found fine crystals, which are known +every where as Bristol diamonds. We obtained +some specimens, which reminded us of the crystals +so frequently seen at Little Falls, on the Mohawk. +The great celebrity of the Hot Wells is chiefly owing +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_66" id="Page_66" title="66"></a></span>to a hot spring, which issues from the rock, and +possesses valuable medical qualities.</p> + +<p class="text">This spring had a reputation as early as 1480. It +discharges about forty gallons per minute, and was +first brought into notice by sailors, who found it useful +for scorbutic disorders. In 1680 it became +famous, and a wealthy merchant rendered it so by a +dream. He was afflicted with diabetes, and dreamed +that he was cured by drinking the water of this +spring. He resorted to the imagined remedy, and +soon recovered. Its fame now spread, and, in +1690, the corporation of Bristol took charge of the +spring. We found the water, fresh from the spring, +at the temperature of Fahrenheit 76°. It contains +free carbonic acid gas. Its use is seen chiefly in +cases of pulmonary consumption. I suppose it has +wrought wonders in threatening cases. It is the +place for an <i>invalid</i> who <i>begins to fear</i>, but it is not +possible to "create a soul under the ribs of death." +Unhappily, people in sickness too seldom repair to +such aid as may here be found till the last chances +of recovery are exhausted. I have never seen a +spot where I thought the fragile and delicate in constitution +might pass a winter, sheltered from every +storm, more securely than in this place. Tie houses +for accommodation are without end, both at the +Hot Wells and at Clifton. This last place is on the +high ground, ascending up to the summit of the +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_67" id="Page_67" title="67"></a></span>rocks, where you enter on a noble campus known as +Durdham Down. This extends for some three or +four miles, and is skirted by charming villages, +which render the environs of Bristol so far-famed +for beauty.</p> + +<p class="text">I never wished to have your company more than +when we all ascended the height of St. Vincent's +Rocks. The elevation at which we stood was about +three hundred and fifty feet above the winding river +which, it is thought, by some sudden convulsion of +nature, turned from the moors <i>of</i> Somersetshire, its +old passage to the sea, and forced an abrupt one +between the rocks and the woods; and the corresponding +dip of the strata, the cavities on one side, +and projections on the other, make the supposition +very plausible. A suspension bridge over this awful +chasm is in progress.</p> + +<p class="text">The celebrated pulpit orator, Robert Hall, always +spoke of the scenery of this region as having done +very much in his early days to form his notions of +the beautiful. In one of his most admirable sermons, +preached at Bristol, when discoursing upon +"the new heavens and the new earth," he indulged +in an astonishing outbreak of eloquence, while he +conducted his audience to the surpassing beauties of +their own vicinage, sin-ruined as it was, and then +supposed that this earth might become the dwelling-place +of the redeemed, when, having been purified +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_68" id="Page_68" title="68"></a></span>from all evil, it should again become "very good." +Here, on these scenes of unrivalled beauty, Southey, +and Lovell, and Coleridge, and Cottle have loved to +meditate; and the wondrous boy Chatterton fed his +muse amid these rare exhibitions of the power and +wisdom of the Godhead. A Roman encampment is +still visible on the summit of the rocks. We were +all sorry, to see such havoc going on among the +quarries, where, to use Southey's language on this +subject, they are "selling off the sublime and beautiful +by the boat load."</p> + +<p><br /></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 325px;"> +<a name="Samuel_Taylor_Coleridge" id="Samuel_Taylor_Coleridge"></a> +<a href="images/pg071.png"><img src="images/pg071_th.png" width="325" height="400" alt="Samuel Taylor Coleridge." title="Samuel Taylor Coleridge." /> +</a><span class="caption">Samuel Taylor Coleridge.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_69" id="Page_69" title="69"></a></span></p> +<p><br /></p> + +<p class="text">Our favorite walk is on the downs. George +seems really penetrated with the uncommon beauty +of the region, and wants to stop as long as possible, +and does not believe any thing can be more beautiful. +We look over the awful cliffs—gaze on the +thread of water winding its devious course at an immense +distance below—watch the steamers from +Wales and Ireland shoot up to the city, and the +noble West Indiamen, as they are towed along. +The woods opposite are charming, and contain +nearly every forest-tree belonging to the country. +Dr. Holland, in his travels through Greece, refers to +this very spot in the following language: "The features +of nature are often best described by comparison; +and to those who have visited Vincent's Rocks, +below Bristol, I cannot convey a more sufficient +idea of the far-famed Vale of Tempe than by saying +that its scenery resembles, though on a much +larger scale, that of the former place. The Peneus, +indeed, as it flows through the valley, is not greatly +wider than the Avon, and the channel between the +cliffs irregularly contracted in its dimensions; but +these cliffs themselves are much loftier and more +precipitous, and project their vast masses of rock +with still more extraordinary abruptness over the +hollow beneath." We devoted a morning to visit +Leigh Court, the residence of Mr. Miles, a wealthy +merchant and member in Parliament for Bristol. +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_70" id="Page_70" title="70"></a></span>This is regarded as one of the finest residences in +the west of England. The mansion has an Ionic +portico, supported by massive columns. The great +hall is very extensive. A double flight of steps +leads you to a peristyle of the Ionic order, around +which are twenty marble columns, supporting a lofty +dome, lighted by painted glass. The floor is of +colored marble. This residence has been enriched +with the choicest treasures from Wanstead House, +and Fonthill Abbey. To us the grand attraction +was the Picture Gallery, which has few superiors in +the kingdom. A catalogue, with etchings, was published +a few years ago. You may judge of the +merits of the collection, and the nature of our gratification, +when I tell you that here are the Conversion +of Paul, by Rubens; the Graces, by Titian; +William Tell, by Holbein; Pope Julius II., by Raphael; +Ecce Homo, by Carl Dolci; Head of the +Virgin, by Correggio; St. Peter, by Guido; St. John, +by Domenichino; Creator Mundi, by Leonardo da +Vinci; Crucifixion, by Michael Angelo; Plague of +Athens, by N. Poussin; three Seaports, by Claude; +and a large number by Rembrandt, Salvator Rosa, +Paul Potter, Parmegiano, Velasques, Gerard Dow, +&c. This has been a most gratifying excursion, and +our visit here will be a matter of pleasant recollection. +I forgot to say that at Clifton, and at +various places near the rocks, we were beset by men, +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_71" id="Page_71" title="71"></a></span>women, and children, having very beautiful polished +specimens of the various stones found in the quarries, +together with minerals and petrifactions. Of +these we all obtained an assortment.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">j.o.c.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_10" id="Letter_10"></a>Letter 10.</h2> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">We have while at Bristol made two journeys to +Bath, and I am sure we are all of opinion that it is +the most elegant city we ever saw. A great deal of +its beauty is owing to the fine freestone of which it +is chiefly built.</p> + +<p class="text">We were much pleased with the Royal Crescent, +which consists of a large number of elegant mansions, +all built in the same style. Ionic columns rise +from a rustic basement, and support the superior +cornice. These houses are most elegantly finished. +All the city is seen from the crescent, and no other +spot affords so grand a prospect. Camden Place +is an elliptical range of edifices, commanding an +extensive view of the valley, with the winding stream +of the Avon, and the villages upon its banks. One +of the principal features of Bath is its hills and +downs, which shelter it on every side. The sides on +these downs are very fine, extending for miles, and +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_72" id="Page_72" title="72"></a></span>you see thousands of sheep enjoying the finest possible +pasturage. Talking of sheep, I am reminded +how very fine the sheep are here; it seems to me +they are almost as big again as our mutton-makers.</p> + +<p class="text">Queen Square, in Bath, pleases us all, as we are +told it does every one. It stands up high, and is +seen from most parts of the city. From north to +south, between the buildings, if is three hundred and +sixteen feet, and from east to west three hundred +and six feet. In the centre is an enclosure, and in +that is a fine obelisk. The north side of the square +is composed of stately dwellings, and they have all +the appearance of a palace. The square is built of +freestone, and is beautifully tinted by age. The +first thing almost we want to see in these fine towns +is the cathedral, if there be one. I never thought +that I should be so pleased with old buildings as I +find I am. Old houses, castles, and churches have +somehow strangely taken my fancy. The Cathedral, +or, as they here call it, the Abbey Church, is a +noble one. It was begun in 1495, and only finished +in 1606, and stands on the foundation of an old convent, +erected by Osric in 676. It is famous for its +clustered columns, and wide, elegantly arched windows. +The roof is remarkable for having fifty-two +windows, and I believe has been called the Lantern +of England. You know that the city takes its +name from its baths. The great resort of fashion +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_73" id="Page_73" title="73"></a></span>is at the Pump-room and the Colonnade. This building +is eighty-five feet in length, forty-six wide, and +thirty-four high. This elegant room is open to the +sick of every part of the world. An excellent band +plays every day from one till half past three.</p> + +<p class="text">The King's Bath is a basin sixty-six feet by forty-one, +and will contain three hundred and forty-six +tuns. I have been much pleased with Dr. Granville's +works on the Spas of England, and there you +will find much interesting matter respecting Bath.</p> + +<p class="text">We made some pleasant excursions in the vicinity +of this beautiful city. We have visited Bradford, +Trowbridge, and Devizes. Trowbridge is a fine +old town, and we looked with interest at the church +where the poet Crabbe so long officiated. His +reputation here stands high as a good man and kind +neighbor, but he was called a poor preacher. Here, +and in all the neighboring places, the manufacture +of broadcloths and cassimeres is carried on extensively. +Devizes is a charming old town. We were +greatly interested with its market-place, and a fine +cross, erected to hand down the history of a sad +event. A woman who had appealed to God in support +of a lie was here struck dead upon the spot, +and the money which she said she had paid for some +wheat was found clinched in her hand. This +monument was built by Lord Sidmouth, and is a +fine freestone edifice, with a suitable inscription.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_74" id="Page_74" title="74"></a></span>Roundaway Down, which hangs over this ancient +town, was famous in the civil wars of Charles I. +Here, too, are the relics of an old castle. Devizes +has two great cattle fairs, in spring and autumn; and +the market day, on Thursday, gave us a good idea +of the rural population. We have rarely seen finer +looking men than were here to be seen around their +wheat, barley, and oats. We have been pleased to +see the great English game of cricket, which is so +universally played by all young men in this country. +It seems to us that the boys here have more athletic +games than with us. Prisoners' bass seems a favorite +boys' amusement, and ninepins, or, as we call it, +bowls, are played by all classes freely, and it is not +regarded as at all unministerial. We are going to +London this week, and shall commence sight-seeing +in earnest. Above all, we are to be at the exhibition. +When I have seen the lions, I will write you again.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">james.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_11" id="Letter_11"></a>Letter 11.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">The story goes that Mr. Webster, when he first +arrived in London, ordered the man to drive to the +Tower. Certainly we boys all wanted to go there +as soon as possible. I do not think that I ever felt +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_75" id="Page_75" title="75"></a></span>quite so touch excitement as I did when we were +riding to the Tower, I had so many things crowding +into my mind; and all the history of England with +which I have been so pleased came at once freshly +into my memory. I wanted to be alone, and have +all day to wander up and down the old prison and +palace and museum, for it has been all these things +by turns. Well, we rode over Tower Hill, and got +directly in front of the old fortress, and had a complete +view of it.</p> + +<p class="text">In the centre stands a lofty square building, with +four white towers, having vanes upon them. This is +said to be the work of William the Conqueror, but +has had many alterations under William Rufus, +Henry I., and Henry II. In 1315, the Tower was +besieged by the barons who made war on John. +Henry III. made his residence in this place, and did +much to strengthen and adorn it. About this time +the Tower began to be used as a state prison. +Edward I. enlarged the ditch or moat which surrounded +the Tower. In the days of Richard II., +when the king had his troubles with Wat Tyler, +the Archbishop of Canterbury was beheaded on +Tower Hill, or, rather, massacred, for it said that he +was mangled by eight strokes of the axe. When +Henry V. gained his great victory at Agincourt, he +placed his French prisoners here. Henry VIII. was +here for some time after he came to the throne, and +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_76" id="Page_76" title="76"></a></span>he made his yeomen the wardens of the Tower, and +they still wear the same dress as at that day. The +dress is very rich,—scarlet and gold,—and made +very large; the coat short, and sleeves full. The +head-dress is a cap.</p> + +<p class="text">We went in at what is called the Lion's Gate, +because some time back the menagerie was kept in +apartments close by. The kings of other days used +to have fights between the beasts, and James I. was +very fond of combats between lions and dogs in +presence of his court. All these animals were moved +several years ago to the Zoölogical Gardens. We +passed through strong gates, defended by a portcullis, +and on our left we saw what the warden +called the Bell Tower, and which was the prison of +Bishop Fisher, who was beheaded for not acknowledging +Henry VIII. to be the head of the church. +I wanted to see the Traitor's Gate, and found it +was on the right hand, having a communication with +the Thames under a bridge on the wharf. Through +this passage it was formerly the custom to convey +the state prisoners, and many a man in passing this +gate bade farewell to hope.</p> + +<p class="text">There is, just opposite to this gate, the bloody +tower where Edward V. and his brother were put +to death by the monster Richard, who usurped the +throne. I would have given a great deal to have +explored the Tower, but the things and places I +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_77" id="Page_77" title="77"></a></span>wanted to look into were just what you are not let +see. The old Tower of English history you look +at, but must not go through. Still I have been +delighted, but not satisfied. We found the spot +where the grand storehouse and armory were burnt +in 1841, and, if I recollect rightly, the warden said +it was three hundred and fifty feet long, and sixty +wide. Here, I suppose, was the finest collection of +cannon and small fire-arms in the world. We saw +some few fine specimens that were saved. Of +course, we were curious to see the Horse Armory. +This is a room one hundred and fifty feet in length, +and about thirty-five wide. Some one has said that +here is "the History of England, done in iron." +All down the middle of the room is a line of equestrian +figures, and over each character is his banner. +All the sides of the apartment are decorated with +trophies and figures in armor. I was much gratified +with the beautiful taste displayed in the arrangement +of the arms upon the walls and ceiling. Some of +the suits of armor were very rich, and answered +exactly to my notions of such matters. Here I saw, +for the first time, the coat of mail; and I think the +men of that day must have been stronger than +those of our time, or they never could have endured +such trappings. I was much pleased with the real +armor of Henry VIII. This suit was very rich, and +damasked. And here, too, was the very armor of +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_78" id="Page_78" title="78"></a></span>Dudley, Earl of Leicester, who figured at the court +of Elizabeth. It weighs eighty-seven pounds; and +close by it is the martial suit of the unfortunate +Essex. He was executed, you know, at this place, +1601. Among the most beautiful armors we saw +were the suits of Charles I. and a small one which +belonged to his younger brother when a lad. I +think one suit made for Charles when a boy of +twelve would have fitted me exactly; and wouldn't +I have liked to become its owner! King Charles's +armor was a present from the city of London, and +was one of the latest manufactured in England.</p> + +<p class="text">I do not think I ever was in a place that so +delighted me. I cannot tell you a hundredth part +of the curiosities that are to be seen s all sorts of +rude ancient weapons; several instruments of torture +prepared by the Roman Catholics, at the time of the +Spanish Armada, for the conversion of the English +heretics. One of these was the Iron Collar, which +weighs about fifteen pounds, and has a rim of inward +spikes; and besides, we saw a barbarous instrument, +called the Scavenger's Daughter, which packed +up the body and limbs into an inconceivably small +space. We looked with deep interest, you may +imagine, Charley, on the block on which the Scotch +lords, Balmerino, Kilmarnook, and Lovat, were beheaded +in 1746. The fatal marks upon the wood +are deeply cut; and we had in our hands the axe +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_79" id="Page_79" title="79"></a></span>which was used at the execution of the Earl of +Essex. I shall read the history of this country, I +am sure, with more pleasure than ever, after walking +over the yard and Tower Hill, where so many +great and good, as well as so many infamous, persons +have suffered death. Only think what a list +of names to be connected with the block—Fisher, +More, Queen Anne Boleyn, Queen Catherine Howard, +Margaret, Countess of Salisbury, Cromwell and +Devereux, both Earls of Essex, the Duke of Somerset, +Lady Jane Grey and her husband, the Duke +of Northumberland, Sir Walter Raleigh, Strafford, +Laud,—all perished on the Tower Green or on the +Tower Hill. The spot is easily recognized where +the scaffold was erected.</p> + +<p class="text">The regalia, or crown jewels, are kept in an +apartment built on purpose to contain these precious +treasures. Here are the crowns that once belonged to +different sovereigns and heirs of the throne. At the +death of Charles I., the crown in use, and said to be +as old as the times of Edward the Confessor, was +broken up, and a new one made at the restoration of +Charles II. The arches of this crown are covered +with large stones of different colors, and the cap of the +crown is of purple velvet. The old crown for the +queen is of gold, set with diamonds of great cost, and +has some large pearls. There is a crown called "the +Diadem," which was made for James II.'s queen, +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_80" id="Page_80" title="80"></a></span>adorned with diamonds, and which cost just about +half a million of dollars. The crown of the Prince +of Wales is plain gold.</p> + +<p class="text">As for orbs, staffs, and sceptres, I can't tell you +half the number. One I noticed called "St. Edward's +Staff," of gold, four feet seven inches long. +At the top is an orb and cross, and a fragment of +the Savior's cross is <i>said</i> to be in the orb. Here, +too, are all kinds of swords—called swords of +justice and mercy—and vessels to hold the oil for +anointing the monarch at coronation, and a saltcellar +of gold which is used at the same time, and is a +model of the Tower. I thought all this very fine; +but I was most pleased with seeing such splendid +specimens of precious stones. Such diamonds, +pearls, amethysts, emeralds, &c., &c., we Yankee +boys had never seen, and probably may never see +again. I was very much delighted with a large +silver wine fountain, presented by Plymouth to +Charles II., and which is used at coronation banquets; +and also with the font, of silver gilt; used at +the baptism of the Queen. It stands about four +feet high. Over all this show that I have told you +of is the state crown made for Victoria. This is +very brilliant, and in the centre of the diamond +cross is a sparkling sapphire, while in front of the +crown is a large ruby which was worn by the Black +Prince. Well, Charley, my boy, I would rather go +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_81" id="Page_81" title="81"></a></span>to Washington and look at our old copy of the +Declaration of Independence than gaze for a whole +day at this vast collection of treasure. There is +more to be proud of in that old camp equipage of +Washington's up in the patent office than in all the +crown jewels of England—at least, so I think, and +so do you.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">george.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_12" id="Letter_12"></a>Letter 12.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">George has said his say about the Tower, he tells +me; and I assure you it was a time that we shall +often think of when we get back. On our return, +the doctor proposed that we should visit the Thames +Tunnel, which was not far off; and so we went +through a number of poor streets, reminding us of +the oldest parts of Boston round Faneuil Hall. +The tunnel connects Rotherhithe and Wapping. +This last place, you know, we have read about +enough in Dibdin's Sea Songs, our old favorite.</p> + +<p class="text">Several notions about this great idea have been +entertained in past years; but in 1814, Brunei, the +great engineer, noticed the work of a worm on a +vessel's keel, where it had sawn its way longitudinally, +and he caught an idea. In 1833, he formed a +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_82" id="Page_82" title="82"></a></span>"Thames Tunnel Company," and in 1825 he commenced +operations, but it was not opened till 1843 +for passengers. There are no carriage approaches +to it, and it is only available to foot travellers. The +ascent and descent is by shafts of, perhaps, one +hundred steps. I think I heard that the great +work cost the company, and government, who +helped them, about half a million sterling. The +passages are all lighted up with gas, and in the way +you find raree shows of a dioramic character, and +plenty of music, and not a few venders of views +and models of the tunnel. After leaving this river +curiosity, we went to see the new Houses of Parliament, +which run along the banks of the river, in +close neighborhood to Westminster Abbey. I felt +disappointed at the first view, it is altogether so +much like a very large pasteboard model—such a +thing as you often see in ladies' fairs for charity. +To my notion, the affair wants character; it is all +beautiful detail. The length is about oho thousand +feet. The clock tower is to be three hundred and +twenty feet high. It is vain to describe the building, +which is far too immense and complicated for my +pea. I never was so bewildered in a place before. +As I think you would like to have a correct idea of +the House of Lords, I will quote from the description +which was handed us on entering, but even then +you will fail to understand its gorgeous character.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_83" id="Page_83" title="83"></a></span>"Its length is ninety feet; height, forty-five feet, +and width the same; so that it is a double cube. It +is lighted by twelve windows, six on each side, each +of which is divided by mullions into four, these being +intersected by a transom, making eight lights +in each window, which are made of stained glass, +representing the kings and queens, consort and +regnant, since the Conquest. The ceiling is flat, +and divided into eighteen large compartments, which +are subdivided by smaller ribs into four, having at +the intersection lozenge-shaped compartments. The +centre of the south end is occupied by the throne, +each side of which are doors opening into the Victoria +Lobby. The throne is elevated on steps. +The canopy is divided into three compartments, the +centre one rising higher than the others, and having +under it the royal chair, which is a brilliant piece of +workmanship; studded round the back with crystals. +The shape of the chair is similar in outline to that +in which the monarchs have been crowned, and +which is in Westminster Abbey, but, of course, +widely different in detail and decoration. On each +side of this chair are others for Prince Albert and +the Prince of Wales. At the north end is the bar +of the house, where appeals are heard, and the +Commons assemble when summoned on the occasion +of the opening of Parliament. Above the bar is +the reporters' gallery, behind which is the strangers', +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_84" id="Page_84" title="84"></a></span>and round the sides of the House is another gallery, +intended for the use of peeresses, &c., on state occasions.</p> + +<p class="text">"At the north and south ends of the house, above +the gallery, are three compartments, corresponding +in size and shape to the windows, and containing +fresco paintings. Those at the north end are 'the +Spirit of Religion,' by J.C. Horsley; 'the Spirit +of Chivalry' and 'the Spirit of Justice,' by D. +Maclise, R.A. Those at the south end, over the +throne, are 'the Baptism of Ethelbert,' by Dyce; +'Edward III. conferring the Order of the Garter on +the Black Prince,' and 'the Committal of Prince +Henry by Judge Gascoigne,' by C.W. Cope, R.A. +Between the windows are richly-decorated niches +and canopies, which are to have bronze statues in +them. In casting the eye round the whole room, it +is almost impossible to detect scarcely a square inch +which is not either carved or gilded. The ceiling, +with its massive gilded and decorated panels, presents +a most imposing and gorgeous effect, and one +of truly royal splendor. The St. Stephen's Hall is +ninety-five feet long, thirty feet wide, and sixty feet +high; the roof is stone-groined, springing from clustered +columns running up the side of the hall. The +bosses, at the intersections of the main ribs, are +carved in high relief, with incidents descriptive of +the life of Stephen.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_85" id="Page_85" title="85"></a></span>"This hall leads through a lofty archway into the +central hall, which is octagon in plan, having columns +at the angles, from which spring ribs forming +a grand stone groin finishing in the centre, with an +octagon lantern, the bosses at the intersections of +all the ribs elaborately carved. The size of this +hall is sixty-eight feet in diameter, and it is sixty feet +to the crown of the groin."</p> + +<p class="text">The House of Commons, which is now in the +course of completion, is quite a contrast to the +splendor of the House of Lords. Its length is +eighty-four feet; width, forty-five feet; and height, +forty-three feet. An oak gallery runs all round the +house, supported by posts at intervals, having carved +heads, and spandrills supporting the main ribs. The +strangers' gallery is at the south end, in front of +which is the speaker's order gallery. At the north +end is the reporters' gallery, over which is the ladies' +gallery—being behind a stone screen. The libraries +are fine rooms, looking out on the river. I +have no time to tell you of the beautiful refreshment +rooms, excepting to say that the one for the peers is +one hundred feet long. I must not forget to say +that in the tower is to be a wondrous clock, the dial +of which is to be thirty feet in diameter! We went +to see these buildings by an order from the lord +chamberlain. The total cost is estimated at between +eight and ten millions of dollars. It certainly +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_86" id="Page_86" title="86"></a></span>is very rich, and looks finely from the river; but it +is unfortunately too near to the abbey, and wants +force. After leaving the Houses of Parliament, we +went to Westminster Hall, which has some of the +finest historical recollections connected with any +public building in England. Really, I felt more +awe in entering this hall than I ever remember to +have experienced. I cannot tell you the size of it, +but it is the largest room in Europe without a +support, and the span of the roof is the widest +known. The roof, of chestnut, is exceedingly fine. +Only think, my dear fellow, what events have transpired +on this spot. The following trials took place +here: Stafford, Duke of Buckingham, for high treason, +1521; Sir Thomas More, 1535; Duke of Somerset, +for treason, 1552; Thomas Howard, Duke of +Norfolk, for his attachment to Mary, Queen of +Scots; Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex, 1601, and +Earl of Southampton; Guy Fawkes and the Gun-powder +Plot conspirators; Robert Carr, Earl of +Southampton, and his countess, for murder of Sir +Thomas Overbury, 1616; Wentworth, Earl of Strafford, +1641; Archbishop Laud; Charles I., for his +attacks upon the liberties of his country, 1649; the +seven bishops, in the reign of James II.; Dr. Sacheverel, +1710; in 1716, the Earls Derwentwater, +Nithisdale, and Carnwath, and the Lords Widdington, +Kenmure, and Nairn, for the rebellion of 1715; +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_87" id="Page_87" title="87"></a></span>Harley, Earl of Oxford, 1717; the Earls Cromartie +and Kilmarnock, and Lord Balmerino, 1746, for the +rebellion of 1745; Lord Lovat, 1747; William +Lord Byron, for the death of William Chaworth in +a bloody duel, 1765; Lord Ferrers, for the murder +of his steward; the infamous Duchess of Kingston, +for bigamy, 1776; and Warren Hastings, for cruelty +in his office as Governor of India, 1788.</p> + +<p class="text">And besides all this, here have been the coronation +feasts of all England's monarchs, from William +Rufus, who built it in 1099, down to George IV., +1820. Sad times and merry ones have been here. +We stepped from the hall into the courts of law, +which have entrances from this apartment, and we +saw the lord chancellor on the bench in one, and +the judges sitting in another. The courts were +small, and not very imposing in their appearance.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">james.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_13" id="Letter_13"></a>Letter 13.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">O, we have had a noble treat; and how I longed +for your company, as we spent hour after hour in the +British Museum. The building is very fine, but the +inside—that is every thing. The entire front is, I +think, about four hundred feet, and I reckoned <span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_88" id="Page_88" title="88"></a></span>forty-four +columns forming a colonnade; these are forty-five +feet high. The portico is now receiving magnificent +sculpture in relief; and when the whole is +finished, and the colossal statues surmount the pediment, +and the fine iron palisadoes, now erecting, are +completed, I think the edifice will be among the +finest in the world. The entrance hall is most imposing, +and the ceiling is richly painted in encaustic. +The staircases are very grand, and their side walls +are cased with red Aberdeen granite, brought to an +exquisite polish. To describe the British Museum +would be a vain attempt. In the hall are several +fine statues. Especially did we admire the one of +Shakspeare by Roubilliac, and given by Garrick. +We soon found our way to the Nineveh Gallery, and +were wide awake to look after the relics of Nineveh +dug up by Layard on the banks of the Tigris. +Here is a monstrous human head, having bull's horns +and ears, many fragments of horses' heads, bulls, +&c., &c. The colossal figure of the king is very +grand, and discovers great art. There is also a fine +colossal priest, and the war sculptures are of the deepest +interest. Then we went to the Lycian Room. +The sculptures here were found at Xanthus, in +Lycia. These ruins claim a date of five hundred +years before Christ. Here are some exquisite fragments +of frieze, describing processions, entertainments, +sacrifices, and female figures of great beauty.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_89" id="Page_89" title="89"></a></span>In the Grand Saloon are numerous Roman remains +of sculpture. In the Phigalian Saloon are marbles +found at a temple of Apollo, near Phigalia, in +Arcadia, in 1814. The Elgin Saloon is devoted to +the magnificent marbles taken in 1804, from temples +at Athens, by the Earl of Elgin, and were purchased +by Parliament for thirty-five thousand pounds. +They are chiefly ornaments from the Parthenon, a +Doric temple built in the time of Pericles, B.C. 450, +by Phidias. No one can fail to be impressed with +the great beauty of these conceptions. The famous +Sigean inscription is written in the most ancient of +Greek letters, boustrophedon-wise; that is, the lines +follow each other as oxen turn from one furrow to +another in ploughing.</p> + +<p class="text">There are five galleries devoted to natural history, +and are named thus: the Botanical Museum, Mammalia +Gallery, Eastern Zoölogical Gallery, Northern +Zoölogical Gallery, and the Mineral Gallery. The +specimens in all these are very fine. Nothing can +be finer than the mammalia. The preservation has +been perfect, and far surpasses what I have been +accustomed to see in museums, where decay seems +to be often rioting upon the remains of nature. The +department of ornithology is wonderful, and I could +have enjoyed a whole day in examining the birds of +all climates. In conchology the collection is very +rich. I do not often get such a gratification as I +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_90" id="Page_90" title="90"></a></span>had among the portraits which are hanging on the +walls of these galleries. The very men I had heard +so much of, and read about, were here lifelike, +painted by the best artists of their day. I was +much pleased with the picture of Mary, Queen of +Scots, by Jansen; of Cromwell, by Walker; of +Queen Elizabeth, by Zucchero; of Charles II., by +Lely; of Sir Isaac Newton; of Lord Bacon; of +Voltaire; of John Guttenburg; and of Archbishop +Cranmer. As to the library and the MSS., what +shall I say? The collection of books is the largest +in the kingdom, and valuable beyond calculation. +It amounts to seven hundred thousand. We looked +at illuminated gospels, Bibles, missals, till we were +bewildered with the gold and purple splendor; and +then we walked from one glass case to another, +gazing upon autographs that made us heart-sick +when we thought of our juvenile treasures in this +line. If ever I did covet any thing, it was some old +scraps of paper which had the handwriting of Milton, +Cromwell, Luther, Melancthon, Erasmus, and +a long <i>et cætera</i> of such worthies. You know how +much we love medals and coins; well, here we revelled +to our heart's delight. Country after country +has its history here, beautifully illustrated. The +museum has two spacious rooms devoted to reading, +and the access to these treasures is very liberal.</p> + +<p class="text">If I could stay in London one year, I should +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_91" id="Page_91" title="91"></a></span>certainly propose to spend three or four months in +study and research at the British Museum; nor do I +imagine that it would be lost time. It seems to me +that such a place must make scholars; but I know, +by my own painful recollection, that opportunities for +improvement are not always valued as they should +be. I have been much struck lately with the thought +that men of leisure are not the men who do much +in literature. It never has been so. Here and +there a rich man cultivates his mind; but it is your +busy men who leave the mark upon the age.</p> + +<p class="text">While in the museum, we were shown Lord +Chief Justice Campbell, the author of the Lives +of the Chancellors, &c. He is a working-man, if +there be one in England, and yet he finds time to +elaborate volume upon volume. I feel ashamed +when I think how little I have acquired, how very +little I know that I might have understood, and +what immensely larger acquisitions have been made +by those who have never enjoyed half my advantages. +There is a boy, only fifteen, who resorts +to this museum, and is said to understand its contents +better than most of its visitors; and a livery +servant, some few years ago, used to spend all his +hours of leisure here, and wrote some excellent +papers upon historical subjects. If I have gained +any good by my journey yet, it is the conviction, +I feel growing stronger every day, that I must work, +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_92" id="Page_92" title="92"></a></span>and that every one must work, in order to excel. +It seems to me that we are in a fair way to learn +much in our present tour, for every day's excursion +becomes a matter of regular study when we come +to our journal, which is now kept posted up daily, +as a thing of course. We are trying, at all events, +to make ourselves so familiar with the great attractions +of London, that in future life we may understand +the affairs of the city when we hear of them.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">weld.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_14" id="Letter_14"></a>Letter 14.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">Ever since we reached London, I have wanted to +go to Woolwich, the great naval arsenal and dockyard, +because I expected I should obtain a pretty +good idea of the power of the British navy; and +then I like to compare such places with our own; +and I have often, at Brooklyn Navy Yard, thought +how much I should like to see Woolwich. Woolwich is +one the Thames, and about ten miles from +the city. You can go at any hour by steamer from +London Bridge, or take the railway from the Surrey +side of the bridge. We were furnished with a +ticket of admission from our minister; but unfortunately, +we came on a day when the yard was closed +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_93" id="Page_93" title="93"></a></span>by order. We were sadly disappointed, but the +doorkeeper, a very respectable police officer, told us +that our only recourse was to call on the commanding +officer, who lived a mile off, and he kindly gave +us a policeman as a guide. On our way, we met +the general on horseback, attended by some other +officers. We accosted him, and told our case. He +seemed sorry, but said the yard was closed. As +soon as we mentioned that we came from America, +he at once gave orders for our admission, and was +very polite. Indeed, on several occasions we have +found that our being from the United States has +proved quite a passport.</p> + +<p class="text">We had a special government order to go over +all the workshops and see the steam power, &c., +&c. I think I shall not soon forget the wonderful +smithery where the Nasmyth hammers are at work, +employed in forging chain cables and all sorts of iron +work for the men-of-war. We went in succession +through the founderies for iron and brass, the steam +boiler manufactory, and saw the planing machines +and lathes; and as to all the other shops and factories, +I can only say, that the yard looked like a city.</p> + +<p class="text">We were much pleased with the ships now in +progress. One was the screw steamer, the Agamemnon, +to have eighty-guns. There, too, is the +Royal Albert, of one hundred and twenty guns, +which they call the largest ship in the world. Of +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_94" id="Page_94" title="94"></a></span>course, we think this doubtful. It has been nine +years in progress, and will not be finished for three +more. It is to be launched when the Prince of +Wales attains the rank of post captain. We saw, +among many other curiosities, the boat in which Sir +John Ross was out twenty-seven days in the ice. +We went into an immense building devoted to military +stores, and in one room we saw the entire +accoutrements for ten thousand cavalry, including +bridles, saddles, and stirrups, holsters, &c.</p> + +<p class="text">The yard is a very large affair, containing very +many acres; it is the depository of the cannon belonging +to the army and navy for all the region, +and there were more than twenty thousand pieces +lying upon the ground. Some were very large, and +they were of all varieties known in war.</p> + +<p class="text">After a delightful hour spent in listening to the +best martial music I ever heard played, by the band, +we took steamboat for Greenwich, and, landing +there, walked to Blackheath, where we had an engagement +to dine at Lee Grove with a London merchant. +Here we had a fine opportunity to witness +the luxury and elegance of English social life. This +gentleman, now in the decline of life, has an exquisitely +beautiful place, situated in a park of some +sixty acres. The railroad has been run through his +estate, and, of course, has made it very much more +valuable for building; but as it injures the park for +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_95" id="Page_95" title="95"></a></span>the embellishment of the mansion, it was a fair subject +for damages, and the jury of reference gave its +proprietor the pretty verdict of eleven thousand +pounds. At the table we had the finest dessert +which the hothouse can furnish. Our host gave us +a very interesting account of his travels in America +more than forty years ago. A journey from New +York to Niagara, as related by this traveller, was +then far more of an undertaking than a journey +from New Orleans to New York, and a voyage +thence to England, at the present time.</p> + +<p class="text">In the evening, we took the cars for London, and +reached our comfortable hotel, the Golden Cross, +Charing Cross, at eleven o'clock. By the way, we +are all very much pleased with the house and its +landlord. Mr. Gardiner is a very gentlemanly man, +of fine address and acquirements. He has been a +most extensive traveller in almost every part of the +world, and has a fine collection of paintings, and one +of the prettiest cabinets of coins and medals I ever +saw. He has a pretty cottage and hothouses four +or five miles from the city; and his family resides +partly there and at the hotel. The hotel is every +thing that can be desired.</p> + +<p class="text">A few evenings ago, Mr. Lawrence had a splendid +<i>soirée</i>. There were probably from two to three +hundred present. Among the company were Sir +David Brewster, Leslie the artist, Miss Coutts, the +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_96" id="Page_96" title="96"></a></span>Duke of Wellington. "The duke," as he is called, +is the great man of England. All the people idolize +him, and he is known to be a great man. He +has become more identified with the history of England +for the last forty years than any other man. +Of course, he was to us Americans the great man +of the country. Whenever I have read of Napoleon, +I have had Wellington in my eye, and to see +him was next to seeing the emperor. I never expected +the pleasure, but here it is allotted me. He +is quite an old man in his bearing and gait. He +was dressed in a blue coat with metal buttons, wore +his star and garter, and had on black tights and +shoes. He had been to the opera, and then came +to this party. Every one pays the most deferential +homage to the old hero. Waterloo and its eventful +scenes came directly before me, and I felt almost +impatient for our visit to the battle-field.</p> + +<p class="text">A gentleman who knows the duke told us that +he spends from four to five hours every morning at +the Horse Guards in the performance of his duties +as commander-in-chief. Although he looks so feeble +in the drawing-room, he sits finely on his horse; +and when I saw him riding down Piccadilly, he +seemed to be full twenty years younger than he was +the day before at the party.</p> + +<p class="text">We shall always be glad that we came to England +in time to see "the duke," and if we live +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_97" id="Page_97" title="97"></a></span>twenty or thirty years, it will be pleasant to say "I +have seen the Duke of Wellington."</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">george.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_15" id="Letter_15"></a>Letter 15.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">I know how curious you are to hear all about the +royal exhibition, so I shall do my best to give you +such an account of our visits to it as may enable +you to get a bird's eye view of the affair.</p> + +<p class="text">Almost as soon as I arrived, I determined upon +securing season tickets for the boys, in order that +they might not only see the pageant of the opening +on the 1st of May, but also have frequent opportunities +to attend the building and study its contents +before the reduced prices should so crowd the palace +as to render examination and study nearly impracticable. +However, there came a report through all +the daily papers that the queen had abandoned the +idea of going in person to inaugurate the exhibition, +and the sale of tickets flagged, and it was +thought prices would be reduced below the three +guineas, which had been the rate. I left London for +a few days without purchasing, and on my return I +called for four season tickets, when, to my surprise, +I was told that, just an hour before, orders had been +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_98" id="Page_98" title="98"></a></span>given from the board to raise them to four guineas. +I at once purchased them, although I regarded the +matter as an imposition. A few days after, Prince +Albert revoked the action of the board, and orders +were issued to refund the extra guinea to all who +had purchased at the advanced price. This was +easily ascertained by reference to the number on the +ticket, and registered at purchase with the autograph +of the proprietor. Of course, we saved our +four guineas.</p> + +<p class="text">For several days before the 1st of May all London, +I may say all England, and almost all the world was +on tiptoe. Every man, woman, and child talked of +"the Crystal Palace, the great exhibition, the queen, +and prince Albert."</p> + +<p class="text">For a week or two there had been a succession of +cold rain storms. Winter had lingered in the lap of April. +Men were looking at the 1st of May with +gloomy anticipations of hail, rain, snow, and sleet. +Barometers were in demand. The 30th of April +gave a hail storm! The 1st of May arrives,—<i>the +day,</i>—and lo!</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Heaven is clear,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And all the clouds are gone."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p class="text">It was as though the windows of heaven were opened +to let the glory from above stream through and +bless Industry's children, who are about to celebrate +their jubilee. The queen, it is said, has a charm +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_99" id="Page_99" title="99"></a></span>as regards the weather. I heard many exclaim, "It +is the queen's weather; it is always her luck." +Such a sight as that day afforded was never before +witnessed, and such a spectacle will probably never +again be gazed upon. The streets were thronged +early. Every westward artery of the great city +pulsated with the living tide that flowed through it. +From the far east, where the docks border the +Thames, came multitudes, though not exactly stars +in the hemisphere of fashion. Ladies in the aristocratic +precincts of Belgravia rose at an early hour, +and, for once, followed the queen's good, every-day +example. The lawyers rushed from Lincoln's and +Gray's Inns of Court. The Royal Exchange was so +dull at ten o'clock that the very grasshopper on its vane +might have been surprised. Holborn was crammed at +when in olden time people pressed, and struggled, +and strove to see Jack Sheppard, Joshua Wild, Dick +Turpin, or any such worthies on their sad way to +Tyburn. But it is no gibbet now allures the morbid +multitude. They are gayly, gently, and gladly travelling +to the home of industry. Among all the +pleasant sights that every moment delighted us +none were more pleasant than the happy family +groups, who, on every side, "push along, keep +moving." Just see that mechanic; he looks as +proud as a lord,—and why shouldn't he be?—with +his wife leaning trustingly, lovingly on his arm. +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_100" id="Page_100" title="100"></a></span>He, good man, has thrown away the saw, or plane, +or any other tool of handicraft, and now his little +boy—O, the delight, the wonder in that boy's face!—is +willingly dragged along. Well, on we go,—driving +across what you would call impassable streets, +and lo! we are wedged up in a crowd,—and such +a crowd,—a crowd of all nations.</p> + +<p class="text">At length we reach the palace gates; and there, +who can tell the press and strife for entrance. Long +and nobly did the police struggle and resist, but at +length the outward pressure was omnipotent, and +the full tide of lucky ones with season tickets gained, +entrance into, not the palace, but the enclosure. +Then came order,—breathing space,—tickets were +examined, and places assigned on cards, given as we +entered into the palace itself. We all obtained good +positions—very good ones. This was at eleven +o'clock. At about a quarter to twelve, one standing +near to us remarked, "She will be to her time; +she always is." And he was right; for scarcely +had he prophesied before a prolonged shouting told +that the queen was coming. "Plumes in the light +wind dancing" were the outward and visible signs +of the Life Guards, who came gently trotting up. +Then came four carriages,—the coachmen and footmen +of which were so disguised with gold lace, and +wigs, and hair powder, that their mothers wouldn't +have known them,—and then the queen—not robed +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_101" id="Page_101" title="101"></a></span>and tricked out like the queens in children's story +books, so dreadful as to resemble thunderbolts in +petticoats; not hooped, and furbelowed, and stomachered, +and embroidered all over, as was Elizabeth; +nor with a cap, like Mary, Queen of Scots; not +with eight horses prancing before the queen's carriage, +but in her private carriage, drawn by two +horses. Off went all hats. I wish you could have +heard the cheering as the queen entered the wondrous +building. O, it was like "the voice of many +waters." Such deep, prolonged, hearty cheering I +never, heard. As Victoria entered, up went the +standard of England, and never before did its folds +wave over such a scene. The entrance of majesty +was the signal for the organ to play; the vitreous +roof vibrates as the sounds fly along the transparent +aisles; and we had musical glasses on a large scale. +It would require the pen of our favorite Christopher +North to describe the magnificent scene when the +queen ascended the throne, surrounded by all the +elegance and nobility of her kingdom. Her husband +reads an address; she replies; the venerable +archbishop dedicates the Temple of Industry. The +queen declares the palace opened, and the procession +is formed to walk through its aisles. No small +task this; but then thirty thousand persons are +waiting to gaze on the queen and her court. A ludicrous +sight it was to see two of England's proudest +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_102" id="Page_102" title="102"></a></span>peers walking backward before the queen. The +Marquis of Westminster and Earl of Breadalbane +performed this feat, and glad enough must they have +been when they received their dismission. The +heralds, some twelve or fourteen, in black velvet, +looked finely. The queen walked like a queen, and +bore herself nobly and womanly. She is a small +figure, fair face, light hair, large, full, blue eyes, +plump cheek, and remarkably fine neck and bust. +She leaned upon her husband's right arm, holding in +her hand the Prince of Wales, while Prince Albert +led the princess royal. I was sadly disappointed +in the appearance of the Prince of Wales. He is +altogether a feeble-looking child, and cannot have +much mental force. The princess is a fine, energetic-looking +girl. We stood within a yard of the +royal party as it passed bowing along. Then +came the members of the royal family; and then +visitors from Prussia and Holland; the ladies and +gentlemen of the queen's household; the cabinet +ministers; the foreign ministers; the archbishop in +his robe, and the members of the royal commission; +the lord mayor of London, and the aldermen. +There, too, was Paxton, the architect of this great +wonder. It was his day of triumph, and every one +seemed to be glad for his fortune. All these were +in gorgeous court dresses. I have seen all sorts +and kinds of show, but never did I witness such a +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_103" id="Page_103" title="103"></a></span>spectacle as was this day afforded to the congress of +the world. The Duke of Wellington, and his companion +in arms, the Marquis of Anglesea, walked +arm in arm, "par nobilis fratrum." It was Wellington's +birthday. He is eighty-two, and Anglesea +eighty-one. The Marquis walks well for a man of +his age, and who has to avail himself of an artificial +leg. They were most enthusiastically cheered in all +parts of the house. In the diplomatic corps there +was great splendor of costume, but no man carried +himself more stately than did Mr. Lawrence, whose +fine, manly figure admirably becomes a court dress. +I do not think that I ever saw a collection of ladies +so plain and homely as the court ladies of Queen +Victoria, who walked behind her in procession. +The Duchess of Sutherland has been renowned +for her majestic beauty; but she is <i>passe</i>, and her +friends are, I think, matchless for entire destitution +of personal charms. But there was enough +present to atone for the want of this in the royal +circle. Some of the most exquisite faces I ever saw +were there in those galleries, and forms of beauty +that can hardly be surpassed. I was much surprised +at noticing in the vast crowd, known to be about +thirty thousand, that there were so few lads. I do +not believe there were more than ten or fifteen in +the palace; and, as we have already said, the absence +of lads is owing to their all being at boarding-<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_104" id="Page_104" title="104"></a></span>schools. +Our boys, you may well suppose, are +greatly pleased with having witnessed the greatest +pageant of the age, and one that can never be surpassed. +We shall soon be at the exhibition again, +and apply ourselves to a careful survey of its interesting +contents.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">j.o.c.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_16" id="Letter_16"></a>Letter 16.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">Now that the excitement consequent on the +opening of the Crystal Palace has in some degree +subsided and curiosity to a certain extent satisfied, +we are enabled to obtain more lucid ideas of this extraordinary +building and its wondrous contents. The +admission for several days was one pound, and at this +high price the visitors were of the most fashionable +character. We have been much pleased in looking +at the very fine equipages that throng the roads +around the park. The carriages, horses, end liveries +are in the best possible taste. When we entered, +the palace was no longer heightened in splendor +by the presence of the sovereign and her brilliant +court. The superb canopy which overshadowed +the <i>dais</i> on which the gorgeous chair had stood, +alone remained to indicate that there England's +queen had performed the inaugural rites; but the +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_105" id="Page_105" title="105"></a></span>great facts of the exhibition remained. The crystal +fountain still played, the magnificent elms appeared +in their spring garniture of delicate green beneath +the lofty transept, and the myriad works of skill, +art, and science lay around, above, and beneath us. +I entered the building by its eastern door, and, +immediately on passing the screen which interposes +between the ticket offices and the interior, the whole +extent of the palace of glass lay before me. Fancy +yourself standing at the end of a broad avenue, +eighteen hundred and fifty feet in length, roofed +with glass, and bounded laterally by gayly-decorated, +slender pillars. The effect was surpassingly beautiful. +Right and left of this splendid nave were other +avenues, into which the eyes wandered at will; for +no walls, no barriers are to be found in the whole +building; all is open, from floor to roof, and from +side to side, and from the eastern to the western +extremity.</p> + +<p class="text">Proceeding westward, I saw the compartments +allotted to our own country. The first thing I noticed +was a piece of sculpture,—the dying Indian,—a +fine production, though perhaps a trifle overdone. +Then came an American bridge, which painters +were still at work upon; and then, backed by drapery +of crimson cloth, that splendid creation of +genius, the Greek Slave, which will immortalize the +name of Hiram Powers. I shall not, I think, be +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_106" id="Page_106" title="106"></a></span>accused of national partiality when I assert that this +statue is, in sculpture, one of the two gems of the +exhibition. Perhaps, if I were not from the United +States, I should say it was "<i>the gem</i>." When I +come to tell you of the Italian marbles, I shall refer +to that production of art which can alone be thought +to dispute the palm of superiority with it. Every +one expresses the highest admiration at the Slave, +and a crowd is constantly around the spot. One +old gentleman, who was in an ecstasy over the +sculpture, very sharply rebuked a person complaining +of the paucity of the American productions, +with "Fie, <i>there</i> is one thing America has sent, that +all Europe may admire, and no one in Europe can +equal." Turning aside from this "breathing marble," +I examined the American exhibition of products +and manufactures. I confess to you I felt mortified +with the comparative meagreness of our show, +because it contrasts poorly with the abundance exhibited +by nations far inferior to us in skill and +enterprise. Still, we have much to show; but the +useful prevails over the beautiful. I am quite sure, +too, that there are things here which will compel +attention, and carry away calm, dispassionate approbation +from the jurors. The United States exhibits +numerous specimens of tools, cordage, cotton and +woolen fabrics, shawls, colors, prints, daguerreo-types, +silver and gold plate, pianos, musical instru<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_107" id="Page_107" title="107"></a></span>ments, +harnesses, saddlery, trunks, bookbinding, paper +hangings, buggies, wagons, carriages, carpetings, +bedsteads, boots and shoes, sculls, boats, furs, hair +manufactures, lithographs, perfumery, soaps, surgical +instruments, cutlery, dentistry, locks, India rubber +goods, machinery, agricultural implements, stoves, +kitchen ranges, safes, sleighs, maps, globes, philosophical +instruments, grates, furnaces, fire-arms of +all descriptions, models of railroads, locomotives, +&c. You may add to these fine specimens of all our +produce, as cotton, sugar, tobacco, hemp, and the +mineral ores—iron, lead, zinc, plumbago, tin, and +copper, coals of all kinds, preserved meats, &c., &c.</p> + +<p class="text">I wish, Charley, you could go with me into a +door south of the transept, over which, in oddly-shaped +letters, are the words "<span class="smcap">MEDIÆVAL COURT</span>." +The very name reminds one of Popery, Puseyism, +and Pugin. This mediæval court absolutely dazzles +one's eyes with its splendors. Auriferous draperies +line the walls; from the ceiling hang gold and silver +lamps—such lamps as are to be seen in Romish +chapels before the statues of the Virgin; huge candlesticks, +in which are placed enormous candles; +Gothic canopies and richly-carved stalls; images of +he and she saints of every degree; crucifixes and +crosiers; copes and mitres; embroideries, of richest +character, are all here—things which the mother +of harlots prizes as the chosen instruments by which +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_108" id="Page_108" title="108"></a></span>she deceives the nations. And truly beautiful are +many of these things as works of art; but it is +only as works of art that any Christian can admire +them. As I gazed on the rich tissues and golden +insignia, I mourned for poor corrupt human nature, +to which alone such gewgaws could be acceptable. +How would Paul or Peter have stared, had they +been required to don such glittering pontificals as +are here to be seen! While I feel great respect +for Pugin's ability as an architect and designer, I +have profound pity for those who are deluded by +these gorgeous symbols of a gloomy, cruel, and +heartless creed.</p> + +<p class="text">There is a large golden cage, not altogether unlike +a parrot's; and there is a press, indeed. What +calls such attention from the multitude? I join the +gazers, and see what at first appears to be three +pieces of irregularly-shaped glass, white and glittering; +one large piece, about the size of a walnut, +and two others a little larger than marbles. What +renders that bit of glass so attractive? Glass! no; +it is "a gem of purest ray serene"—a diamond—the +diamond of diamonds—the largest in the world. +In short, it is the Kohinoor; or, as the Orientals +poetically called it, "the mountain of light." Its +estimated value is two millions sterling—enough to +buy the Crystal Palace itself, nine times over. The +history of this precious gem is romantically curious. +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_109" id="Page_109" title="109"></a></span>It belonged to Runjeet Sindjb and is now an English +trophy.</p> + +<p class="text">Let us enter that partially-darkened chamber, and +stand before a painted glass window, the production +of Bertini, of Milan. I can't describe this extraordinary +production. It is illustrative of Dante, and, +for brilliancy of color and harmony of combination, +it is not surpassed by the much-vaunted specimens +of past ages.</p> + +<p class="text">"From the sublime to the ridiculous," said +Burke, "there is but a step;" and at not much +greater distance from this Dantean window is a +German toy stand. It is amusing to observe a big, +"Tenbroek" sort of son of Allemagne, arranging +tiny children's toys. The contrast between the +German giant and the petty fabrics he is setting off +to the best advantage, provokes a smile.</p> + +<p class="text">Let us join the throng rushing into the suite of +rooms furnished by the upholsterers of Vienna. +These rooms are indeed magnificent, and must +afford a high treat to the lovers of wood carving. +There is a bookcase, which is almost a miracle of +art; the flowers seem to wave, and the leaves to +tremble, so nearly do they approach the perfection +of nature. Then there is, it is said by judges, the +most superb bed in the world; it is literally covered +with carvings of the most costly and delicate description. +Since the time of the famous Grinling Gib<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_110" id="Page_110" title="110"></a></span>bons, +the English carver, nothing has been seen like +it. These Austrian rooms are among the great +guns of the show, and will repay repeated visits.</p> + +<p class="text">Here stands the glorious Amazon of Kiss, of +Berlin. This group, of colossal proportions, represents +a female on horseback, in the act of launching +a javelin at a tiger which has sprung on the fore +quarter of her affrighted steed. This is a wonderful +work of art, and places its author in the first +rank of sculptors. Nothing can surpass the lifelike +character of the Amazon's horse and the ferocious +beast. As a tribute to the genius of Kiss, a grand +banquet is to be given to him by the sculptors and +artists of England. Well does he deserve such an +honor.</p> + +<p class="text">Close by the Amazon is a colossal lion in bronze. +This is the softest piece of casting I ever saw; the +catlike motion of the paw is perfectly lifelike. I +turn back again to that Amazon. I could gaze on +the agony of that horse for hours, and think I should continue +to discover new beauties.</p> + +<p class="text">The Crusader, a colossal equestrian statue of +Godfrey of Bouillon, is also very imposing. The +entire floor is covered in the centre of the avenue, +from east to west, with beautiful statues, models, &c.</p> + +<p class="text">We ascended to one of the galleries for the purpose +of taking a bird's eye view of the gay, busy +scene; and a most splendid scene was thrown open +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_111" id="Page_111" title="111"></a></span>to our gaze. Far as the eye could reach, the building +was alive with gayly-dressed people, who, amidst +statues, and trophies, and trees, and fountains, wandered +as in the groves of some enchanted land. As +I strolled onwards, I came to where a tiny fountain +sent up its silvery jet of <i>eau de Cologne</i>, and an +assistant of Jean Marie Farina, from a little golden +spoon, poured on my handkerchief, unasked, the +odoriferous essence. Then we lingered to witness +two of the noblest cakes, the sight of which ever +gladdened the heart of a bride. Gunter, the great +pastry cook, was the architect of the one which was +a triumph of taste. The other was adorned with +Cupid and Psyche-like emblems. Then came wax +flowers, beaded artfully with glass, so as to appear +spangled with dewdrops. Then we inspected Cashmere +shawls, on which I saw many a lady cast +looks, of admiration, and, I almost fancied, of covetousness.</p> + +<p class="text">Down again, and we are beneath the transept. +Beautiful, head, far higher than the tops of the +huge elm-trees, is a crystal arch which spans this +intersecting space. Around are marble statues, +which gleam lustrously amid the foliage of tropical +plants, which, shielded from the chilling air without, +seem to be quite at home here. And in the midst +up rises Osler's crystal fountain—a splendid affair, +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_112" id="Page_112" title="112"></a></span>twenty-seven feet in height, and consisting of four +tons of cut glass. So exquisitely is it arranged that +no metal, either of joint or pipe, can be seen. It +is "one entire and perfect chrysolite." From its +lofty summit issues forth a dome of water, which +separates, and falls in prismatic showers into a spacious +basin beneath. There are three other fountains, +but this is the monarch of all. On either side +of this beautiful production of a Birmingham manufacturer +are two equestrian statues of the queen +and Prince Albert, about which I cannot speak in +admiration. Groups of figures line the sides of the +transept, and there is a Puck which I would like all +friends to look at. O, he is alive with fun, and +there marble speaks and laughs.</p> + +<p class="text">We have been greatly delighted with the English +room of sculpture. There is a fine portrait +statue of Flaxman, from the chisel of Franks; a +very clever statue of John Wesley; but if I were +to chronicle all the sculptures here, I may as well +write a catalogue at once. But before I quit the +subject of marble, let me just allude to the Italian +gallery. There the specimens are indeed exquisite, +and remind us that the genius of art yet loves to +linger in the "land of the cypress and myrtle"—in +that beautiful country</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Where the poet's eye and painter's hand<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Are most divine."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_113" id="Page_113" title="113"></a></span>Among the gems of marble is one which I told, you +was the only possible rival of Powers's Greek Slave. +This lovely production is "the Veiled Vesta." It +represents a young and exquisitely-formed girl, +kneeling and offering her oblation of the sacred fire. +Her face is veiled; but every feature is distinctly visible, +as it were, through the folds which cover her +face. So wonderfully is the veil-like appearance +produced, that myself and others were almost inclined +to believe that some trick of art had been +practised, and a film of gauze actually hung over +the features. It was not so, however; the hard +marble, finely managed, alone caused the deception. +Raffael Monti, of Milan, is the illustrious artist of +"the Veiled Vesta."</p> + +<p class="text">One of the most interesting machines in the +whole exhibition is the envelope machine of Messrs. +De la Rue & Co., of London. In its operations +it more resembles the efforts of human intellect +than any thing I have seen before in machinery. It +occupies but a small space, and is worked by a little +boy. In a second, and as if by magic, a blank +piece of paper is folded, gummed, and stamped, and, +in fact, converted into a perfect envelope. As soon +as finished, a pair of steel fingers picks it up, lays +it aside, and pushes it out of the way in the most +orderly manner possible. These envelopes, so +made, are given to all who choose to accept them. +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_114" id="Page_114" title="114"></a></span>Opposite to this machine is the stand of Gillott, of +steel pen celebrity. Here are pens of all sizes, and +of various materials. One monster pen might fit a +Brobdignagian fist, for it is two feet long, and has a +nib one quarter of an inch broad; and there are +others so small that no one but a Liliputian lady +could use them. Between these extremes are others +of various dimensions, arranged in a very tasteful +manner. Something must be got out of this branch +of business, for it is only a month or two since +Mr. Gillott purchased an estate for ninety thousand +pounds sterling. Here, too, is a novelty—the +model of St. Stephen's Church, Bolton, Lancashire. +The model and the church itself are both composed +of terra cotta. This material was also employed +in the construction of the principal fittings, +such as the screen, pews, organ gallery, pulpit, +&c. This is a new adaptation of terra cotta. The +spire severely tests its capabilities, as it is of open +Gothic, or tracery work.</p> + +<p class="text">A large model of Liverpool is beautifully constructed +to scale, and must be the result of immense +labor. It is twenty-five feet long, and exhibits at a +glance a bird's eye view of the town, the docks, the +River Mersey, and the adjacent places. Hundreds +of miniature vessels, amongst them the Great Britain, +crowd the docks; fleets of merchantmen are +seen on the Mersey, sailing to and from the port; +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_115" id="Page_115" title="115"></a></span>and in the busy streets, so minutely delineated that +any particular house may be distinguished, numerous +vehicles are seen, and hundreds, too, of pygmy men +and women are observed walking in the public ways. +In short; it is Liverpool in a glass case, and no mean +exhibition in itself.</p> + +<p class="text">The Thames Plate Glass Company exhibit the +largest plate of glass in the world; its dimensions are +eighteen feet eight inches by ten feet. There is not +a blemish on its brilliant surface, and it is as "true" +as possible. It is placed in such a position that it +reflects the whole length of the main avenue of the +Crystal Palace, and the effect produced is superb. +A Catholic bookseller from Belgium makes quite a +display of his editions of devotional works for every +country under heaven; and there, too, are the effigies +of Cardinal Boromeo, Thomas à Becket, and +the late Archbishop of Paris, all arrayed in full pontificals. +Their crosiers are very richly jewelled. +If the apostles of Christ could revisit the earth, they +would never fancy that these were their successors +in the work and patience of the gospel.</p> + +<p class="text">Few things have impressed me more than the exquisite +carvings and elaborate work of the cabinet +ware; and I must, Charley, try to describe one +piece of furniture which excites universal praise. It +is a cabinet made by John Stevens, of Taunton. It +was prepared at great cost, and is the gem of the +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_116" id="Page_116" title="116"></a></span>carved work in the exhibition. The wood of which +it was composed was a walnut-tree, which, not long +ago, flourished near Taunton. In order that you +may not suppose, I praise every thing too highly, and +without sufficient ground for admiration, I shall give +you a particular description of this incomparable +piece of furniture. It represents, in four beautifully +carved male figures, executed after the style of +Gibbons, the periods of Youth, Manhood, Maturity, +and Old Age, whilst other four (female) figures, beautifully +brought up in good relief, are representative +of the Passions. Here there was an opportunity for +displaying some fine needlework; and Miss Kingsbury, +a lady of the town, who has received from +the hand of royalty a reward for her talents, has +turned the opportunity to good account, and produced +some appropriate work, displaying a skill +truly astonishing. This is not the least attractive +portion of the cabinet, and, as we shall again, have +to advert to it in its order, we leave it for the present. +The carved figure of the Youth represents him +at twenty years of age. The countenance is finely +wrought, and marks the innocency and candor of +the young heart; the open brow, the love-lighted +eye, all exemplifying characteristics of that period +of life, untrammelled with care or anxious thought. +In his hair, well brought out from the solid wood, is +intertwined the violet, the primrose, and the cow<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_117" id="Page_117" title="117"></a></span>-slip, +emblematical of the season—being the spring +time of life. In the right hand of the figure is +attached a portion of a festoon of carved flowers, +which connects it with the other four figures. The +left hand is extended, pointing to Manhood. This +figure denotes the period when forty summers have +ripened the man, and brought the noblest work of +God to that stage of his more powerful intellect, his +keener judgment, stronger frame, and more lasting +energy. These characteristics are most admirably +depicted. In his locks are carved the rose, the lily, +the pink, and the carnation, the strawberry and the +gooseberry—emblematical of the summer time of +life. In the right hand the figure receives the festoon +of flowers from Youth, and in the left it supports +the frame of the cabinet. The festoon is +carried on to Maturity, which represents the time +when sixty years bring him to the period of decline. +Its right hand assists, with the left of that of Manhood, +in supporting the cabinet. Encircling his +brow are corn ears and wine cups, together with +barley, wheat, grapes, and hops, the whole of which +are most elaborately and finely chiselled. The hand +of Maturity points downward to Old Age. The furrowed +brow, the sunken cheek, the dim and glassy +eye observable in this figure, conveys the mournful +intelligence that the sand of life is fast approaching +its last little grain. The bent form and the thoughtful +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_118" id="Page_118" title="118"></a></span>brow tell that Time, the consumer of all things, +has also ravaged a once erect and powerful frame. +The contemplation of this figure, beautifully executed +as it is, intuitively inculcates a serious consideration +of the value and blessings of a temperate; +and well-spent life; it induces a thoughtful reflection +that a life of goodness alone insures an end of +peace. The holly, the mistletoe, the ivy, the acorn +shell, the leafless branch, and the fruitless vine encircle +the brow-fit emblems of the period which +marks an exchange of time for eternity. All the +figures are rendered complete by a carved lion's foot, +at the bottom of each, and above the feet is a connecting +frame, to make that portion of the stand +perfect. Between the figures of Spring and Summer +are carved flowers and fruit in great profusion, +emblematical of the seasons, and forming a fine +piece of work; it represents the all-important fact +that time flies, by an hourglass borne on the wings +of a splendidly-carved eagle, and suspending from +the bird's beak are the letters, curiously wrought, +forming <span class="smcap">Tempus Fugit</span>. This rests on a globe, +representative of the earth, which is half sunk in a +shell of water, overflowing the wheel of time, and +shedding on fruit and flowers its refreshing dew. +The space between the figures of Autumn and Winter +is filled with carvings of the chrysanthemum, +holly, ivy, and autumn fruit, intertwined with +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_119" id="Page_119" title="119"></a></span>consummate skill and taste. The garland, or festoon, +which is carried through, and sustained, as before +stated, by each of the four figures, is composed of +every flower indigenous to this part of the land, and +introduced emblematically to the time in which they +severally bloom.</p> + +<p class="text">Above the figures, and resting on their heads, is +a stand or frame to receive the top part, containing +the drawers, doors, &c., and is constructed in a peculiar +manner on the bevel, that the eye may easily +rest on some beautiful lines from Thomson's Seasons. +Over the head of Youth, in this frame, is a +basket of strawberries, cherries, raspberries, and +early fruit, surrounded with leaf work, enclosing a +panel of needlework, covered with bent plate glass, +and the motto,—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i2">"——— Chief, lovely Spring,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">In these and thy soft scenes the smiling God is seen."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p class="text">Then follows the carved figure representing Summer. +Over the head of it is a basket, containing currants, +strawberries, gooseberries, apples, pears, peaches, +and other fruits, enriched with leaf work, the lily and +the rose completing the centre. Between the Summer +and Autumn baskets and a panel are the following +mottoes, each season having one:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Child of the sun! refulgent Summer comes,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">In pride of youth;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">While Autumn, nodding o'or the yellow plain,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Comes jovial on."<br /></span> +</div></div><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_120" id="Page_120" title="120"></a></span></p> + +<p class="text">Then follows the Autumn basket, containing +grapes, pears, filberts, &c., surrounded with leaf +work. The panel of needlework next appears for +Winter, with these lines:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"See! Winter comes to rule the varied year,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Sullen and sad;"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p class="text">and over the head of the Winter figure is placed a +basket of walnuts, medlars, &c. Here is the frame +of the cabinet, which contains about eighty drawers +in fine walnut wood, enriched with fuschia drops in +silver, and coral beads for drop handles; the wood +work is relieved with silvered plate glass; also +small doors with plate glass for needlework, in wild +flowers. This completes the interior of the frame.</p> + +<p class="text">The exterior represents three carved doors, in +fine relief: over Spring and Summer is the convolvulus, +entwined round the frame; then follows the +centre door, in fine relief—the grape vine, full of +fruit, being very prominent. The door over Autumn +and Winter is enriched with carvings of barley and +hop vine. Between each of these doors are pilasters, +forming four female figures, holding in their +hands the emblems of the seasons, and a newly-invented +glass dome head, in an elegant form, for the +protection of knitted flowers in Berlin wool. The +wood work is tastefully arranged, springing from +each group of flowers over the heads of the female +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_121" id="Page_121" title="121"></a></span>figures, with mouldings to receive the bent plate +glass, and is enriched with fine carvings of fruit and +flowers. At the extreme top of this glass dome +stands a beautiful figure of Peace, with extended +wings, bending over the globe, holding in one hand +the olive branch, and with the other pointing to the +Deity.</p> + +<p class="text">Having thus given a description of the carvings +of this splendid cabinet, let me turn your attention +to the enrichments in needlework, worked on black +velvet, from nature, by Miss Kingsbury. The mottoes +in frame for the different seasons are worked +in floss silk of various colors; the inside doors—five +in number—with wild flowers; and in front are +rich specimens of raised embroidery, extending to +the inside, and protected with plate glass. Miss +Kingsbury is a young lady of Taunton, who has +made this kind of work her peculiar forte.</p> + +<p class="text">Above the doors, also, are knitted flowers in Berlin +wools, which fill the dome head, and are protected +with bent plate glass. Almost every flower, +as they bloom, are to be distinguished in these rich +bouquets, with which the honeysuckle and passion +flower are beautifully entwined.</p> + +<p class="text">Now, what think you of such a cabinet as this? +Well, Charley, there are scores and scores of objects +as much deserving a full description as this.</p> + +<p class="text">The department of machinery and steam power +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_122" id="Page_122" title="122"></a></span>is entirely beyond my ability to speak of in proper +terms. I have little mechanical genius, and I never +am more out of my element than When surrounded +by fly wheels, cylinders, and walking beams.</p> + +<p class="text">If our friend Ike had been here, lie would have +been perfectly at home; and his pleasure and profit +in this department would have surpassed any I could +experience. I have only glanced at a few of the +wonderful things in this wonderful place, and yet I +have far exceeded the bounds of an ordinary letter.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">j.o.c.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_17" id="Letter_17"></a>Letter 17.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">One evening this week we spent very pleasantly +at the Royal Polytechnic Institution for the advancement +of the arts and sciences in connection with +agriculture and manufactures. There is a large +theatre, where all sorts of lectures are delivered, at +various hours, upon philosophical and other subjects. +Lecturers occupy the theatre in succession, and take +up about half an hour. These are generally men +of respectable abilities. The building is full of +curiosities. We saw the model of the human ear, +about one hundred and forty times larger than the +natural organ. We saw a diving bell in the great +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_123" id="Page_123" title="123"></a></span>hall, which is frequently put into action, and visitors +are allowed to descend. That evening several made +the experiment. The interior of the bell is lighted +by thick plate glass. A very large number of models +are to be seen, and there is much to interest the +spectator. We heard a fine lecture respecting the +experiment of Foucault, by which the diurnal rotation +of the earth is said to be rendered visible to the eye. +Foucault is a young Parisian, who, whilst engaged in +some investigations with a pendulum in his mother's +cellar, made this discovery, as he claims it to be. +We saw the experiment repeated here on the same +scale as it has recently been shown at the Pantheon +at Paris. A brass sphere, weighing about five pounds, +was suspended from the lofty ceiling by a piece of +music wire, and made to vibrate in one plane over a +table graduated into degrees. After a few vibrations, +the direction of the pendulum appeared to be +changed, as though the table had moved round on +its owns axis.</p> + +<p class="text">We passed an hour at the Egyptian Hall to see +the opening of the American Panorama of the +Overland Route to California. It bids fair to make +a hit in London. Last Sunday, "great exhibition" +sermons were abundant in London. Exeter Hal, +the largest place in London, holding about five thousand +persons, is to be used for three months for the +performance of divine service, to accommodate the +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_124" id="Page_124" title="124"></a></span>strangers who crowd the city. We all went, Sunday +evening, and heard the Rev. Thomas Binney, who +has quite a reputation. The hall was as full as it +could be, but we did not think the discourse as good +as it might be. It was rather declamatory.</p> + +<p class="text">You no doubt remember how much our curiosity +was excited by hearing that Mr. Wyld was about to +place a model of the globe, of gigantic dimensions, +in the great exhibition. Well, he was unable to +obtain the space required, and so he has erected a +spacious building in Leicester Square. This building +is circular, with projecting entrances at the four +cardinal points of the compass. From the centre rises +a graceful dome. Here is placed the model of the +earth, fifty-six feet in diameter. The scale is about +ten miles to an inch. The arrangement before used +in the construction of globes is reversed in this case, +and the continents, islands, and seas are seen on the +<i>inner</i> surface. This seems like turning the world, +not upside down, but inside out. The mountains +and land are elevated to a scale. The spectators +travel round the globe on winding staircases, at the +distance of a few feet from the surface. I went the +other morning to the model, but was far less interested +than I expected. The rest of the party were +not present, and are willing to take my report. I +heard that Mr. Wyld has spent twelve thousand +pounds upon his undertaking.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_125" id="Page_125" title="125"></a></span>We selected a fine afternoon to visit the Zoölogical +Gardens in the Regent's Park, and, of course, +had a treat. I did not think much of the gardens +as far as the horticulture was concerned; but the +collection of animals was far beyond any thing I +had before witnessed. There are more than sixteen +hundred specimens. The animals are finely housed, +and their habits consulted in the arrangements of +their homes. We had the pleasure to see the young +elephant, only six months old, which had just been +received. It was about the size of a donkey. A +hippopotamus had recently been added to the collection, +and we were sadly vexed not to see it. It +was shut up at six o'clock, just as we reached its +house. George had his luck, and obtained a glimpse +of the retiring quadruped. We have been greatly +amused with the sight of hundreds of boys about +town, dressed in blue gowns, or long coats with +belts, short knee breeches, yellow stockings, and +shoes with tackles, but wear no caps or hats. In +all weathers they are bareheaded. I find that they +are the boys belonging to Christ's Hospital, a school +founded by Edward VI., in 1553, and generally +known in London as the Blue Coat School. The +scholars generally range from one thousand to twelve +hundred. The education, is said to be of the best +character, and many of the boys belong to families +of high respectability, and it is quite a matter of +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_126" id="Page_126" title="126"></a></span>desire to obtain scholarship here. They look very +funny in their old-fashioned rig. Each boy wears +bands like a clergyman. The school is in Newgate +Street, and is a fine modern edifice in the Tudor +style. The front is flanked by towers, and has +eight noble windows, which are separated by buttresses. +Over one of the galleries of the hall is a +fine picture, by Holbein, of Edward VI. granting +the charter to the Hospital, as it was then called. +Some of the best scholars of England were educated +here; and we remembered particularly Coleridge and +our special favorite, Charles Lamb.</p> + +<p class="text">To-morrow we are to have a treat of the highest +kind. We are to spend the day at Windsor. I +feel pretty well acquainted with its history and associations, +but I shall spend the evening with George +in brushing up my information. There is nothing +more unpleasant than to find yourself in the presence +of things and places of which you painfully +feel an entire ignorance. If ever we meet again, +how much we shall have to chat over on our favorite topics!</p> + +<p class="center">Yours always,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">james.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_127" id="Page_127" title="127"></a></span></p> +<h2><a name="Letter_18" id="Letter_18"></a>Letter 18.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">It was a fine, clear morning when we started +for Windsor by railroad, a distance of twenty-one +miles. The country is fine; but our thoughts were +on the castle. At Slough we took an omnibus, and +rode into the town. It is a pretty, quiet place, of +about ten thousand inhabitants. There are some +six or seven streets, and they present but few attractions. +The castle is every thing. You know +this has been the favorite residence of most of the +English monarchs, and the scene of many a tournament +in the days of chivalry. The castle was the +work of William the Conqueror. John lived at +Windsor while Magna Charta was extorted from +him by his barons at Runnymede. Henry III. did +a great deal to the castle, but Edward III. invested +it with its great glory. This was his native place. +The architect he employed was the famous William +of Wykeham, Bishop of Winchester, a man of great +genius. He built the noble round tower. This +was in 1315. Wykeham built him a palace worthy +of the hero and his noble son, the Black Prince. +Edward IV. built St. George's Chapel, and Henry +VII. and Henry VIII. both made important additions +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_128" id="Page_128" title="128"></a></span>to the fortress. Young Edward VI. resided here, +and did not like its retirement and gloom. Elizabeth +made the terrace and other improvements. +When Charles II. was restored, he brought a foreign +taste to the improvement of the castle, and a +great deal of elegancy was attempted, but which +poorly harmonized with the Gothic, baronial style +of Wykeham's works.</p> + +<p class="text">George IV. was a man of exquisite taste, and he +employed Sir Jeffry Wyatville to carry out the plans +of Edward III. and his architect. This was in +1824, and his immense labors have been successful. +These improvements cost two million pounds sterling. +I ought to say that Windsor Castle was the +favorite home of George III., who died here. This +palace stands on a lofty chalk hill, and commands +the valley of the Thames. Around it is the finest, +terrace in the world, the descent from which is faced +with a rampart of freestone extending about seventeen +hundred feet. The whole building occupies +about twelve acres.</p> + +<p class="text">I shall not describe all the towers, for there are +some dozen or fifteen. The round tower of Edward +III. is the chief one. Here he revived the +round table of King Arthur, and established the +Order of the Garter. From the battlements of this +strong fortress you gaze upon no less than twelve +counties. Prince Albert is constable of this tower. +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_129" id="Page_129" title="129"></a></span>This was the old prison, or donjon of the castle. +Here James I. of Scotland was a prisoner, and here +he wrote his sweet verses and celebrated Nature's +beauties and the praises of his lady-love, Jane Beaufort. +Here, too, Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey, +long suffered, and sung the sweetest lays. We had +a ticket to see the state apartments. Suffice it to +say that we went through the Queen's Audience +Chamber, the Vandyke Room, the Queen's State +Drawing Boom or Zuccharelle Room, the State +Ante-Room, the Grand Staircase and Vestibule, the +Waterloo Chamber, the Grand Ball Room, St. +George's Hall, the Guard Chamber, the Queen's +Presence Chamber. All these are very, very beautiful. +I was delighted with the Vandyke Room. +Here are twenty-two undoubted productions of +this greatest of portrait painters. Charles I. and +Henrietta were favorite subjects with the artist. +Here are several of them and their children, and +they are to be found elsewhere. The equestrian +portrait of Charles I. is a truly grand picture. You +know the beautiful old copy, of a cabinet size, which +we have in the study at home: it will please me +more than ever, since I know how faithful it is. +That queen of Charles's who made him so much +trouble with her Popery and temper was a wonderfully +beautiful woman. I should not soon be weary +looking at her portrait. She was daughter of +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_130" id="Page_130" title="130"></a></span>Henry IV. of France. Her fortune was hard, to +lose a father by an assassin, and a husband by the +executioner. The Gobelin tapestry, illustrating the +life of Esther, in the Audience Room, is very rich. +In the State Ante-Room are the most wonderful +carvings of fowl, fish, fruit, and flowers, by Grinling +Gibbons. They are thought to be unsurpassed in +this department of art. On the Great Staircase is +a noble colossal marble statue, of that excellent sovereign, +but bad man, George IV. It is by Chantrey. +The Waterloo Chamber is adorned with thirty-eight +portraits of men connected with Waterloo, and +twenty-nine of them are by Sir Thomas Lawrence. +St. George's Hall is two hundred feet long, thirty-four +wide, thirty-two high, and contains some fine +portraits of sovereigns by Vandyke, Lely, Kneller, +Gainsborough, and Lawrence. On twenty-four shields +are the arms of each sovereign of the Order of the +Garter, from Edward III. to William IV. The +Guard Chamber is a noble room, eighty feet in +length. Immediately on entering, we were struck +with the colossal bust of Nelson by Chantrey, A +piece of the mast of the Victory, shot through by a +cannon ball, forms its fitting pedestal. Here, too, +we saw the busts of the great Duke of Marlborough +by Rysbach, and the Duke of Wellington by Chantrey, +and their two banners, by the annual presentation +of which to the reigning sovereign, on the +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_131" id="Page_131" title="131"></a></span>anniversaries of Blenheim and Waterloo, they hold +the estates of Blenheim and Strathfieldsaye. There +are figures in armor representing the Duke of +Brunswick, 1530; Lord Howard, 1588; Earl of +Essex, 1596; Charles I., when Prince of Wales, 1620; +and Prince Rupert, 1635. These suits of armor are +the genuine ones which were worn by these characters +in their lifetime. One thing greatly delighted me—it +was the gorgeous shield, executed by Benvenuto Cellini, +and presented by Francis I. to Henry VIII. at the +Field of the Cloth of Gold. The workmanship is +entirely beyond anything I had imagined possible +for delicacy of finish. I hardly wonder that kings +used to quarrel for the residence of this artist.</p> + +<p class="text">I know, Charley, you are impatient to hear about +St. George's Chapel, of which you have so often +expressed your admiration, when we have looked at +the beautiful engravings of its interior, at home. It +is very fine, and should be seen to be comprehended. +It is of what is called the perpendicular Gothic +style. The interior is divided by a screen and organ +gallery, into the body of the church, and the choir. +These have side aisles, and in these are five separate +little chapels. Two of these make up the place of +transepts, and the other three, and the chapter +house, form abutments at each angle of the chapel. +Now, I think, you can't fail to get an idea of the +building.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_132" id="Page_132" title="132"></a></span>The choir is filled with the stalls and banners of +the knights of the garter. Each knight has his +banner, helmet, crest, and sword.</p> + +<p class="text">The great pointed window was <i>designed</i> by our +countryman, Benjamin West. The altar-piece was +painted by West. Here is the tomb of Edward IV., +1483. He lies under a slab of black marble. In +1789, some workmen discovered his lead coffin, and +it was opened, and the skeleton was in good preservation, +and measured seven feet in length. Horace +Walpole obtained a lock of his hair at this time. +Here are the graves of Henry VI., and of Henry +VIII. and his queen, Jane Seymour. Also of +Charles I.</p> + +<p class="text">Lord Byron says of Henry VIII.'s tomb,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Famed for contemptuous breach of sacred ties,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">By headless Charles, see heartless Henry lies"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p class="text">On the 1st of April, 1813, the coffin of Charles I. +was found in Henry VIII.'s tomb; and I think you +will be pleased with an account of what, transpired. +I shall, therefore, copy a paper which is authentic:</p> + +<p class="text">"On completing the mausoleum which his present +majesty has built in the Tomb House, as it is called, +it was necessary to form a passage to it from under +the choir of St George's Chapel. In constructing +this passage, an aperture was made accidentally, in +one of the walls of the vault of King Henry +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_133" id="Page_133" title="133"></a></span>VIII., through which the workmen were enabled to +see, not only the two coffins which were supposed to +contain the bodies of King Henry VIII. and Queen +Jane Seymour, but a third also, covered with a +black velvet pall, which, from Mr. Herbert's narrative, +might fairly be presumed to hold the remains +of King Charles I.</p> + +<p class="text">"On representing the circumstance to the Prince +Regent, his Royal Highness perceived at once that a +doubtful point in history might be cleared up by +opening this vault; and, accordingly, his Royal Highness +ordered an examination to be made on the first +convenient opportunity. This was done on the 1st +of April last, 1813,—the day after the funeral of the +Duchess of Brunswick,—in the presence of his +Royal Highness himself; who guarantied, thereby, +the most respectful care and attention to the remains +of the dead during the inquiry. His Royal Highness +was accompanied by his Royal Highness the Duke of +Cumberland, Count Munster, the Dean of Windsor, +Benjamin Charles Stevenson, Esq., and Sir Henry +Halford.</p> + +<p class="text">"The vault is covered by an arch half a breadth +in thickness; is seven feet two inches in width, nine +feet six inches in length, and four feet ten inches in +height, and <i>is situated in the centre of the choir, opposite +the eleventh knight's stall, on the sovereign's side</i>.</p> + +<p class="text">"On removing the pall, a plain leaden coffin, with +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_134" id="Page_134" title="134"></a></span>no appearance of ever having been enclosed in +wood, and bearing an inscription, 'King Charles, +1648,' in large, legible characters, on a scroll of lead +encircling it, immediately presented itself to the +view. A square opening was then made in the +upper part of the lid, of such dimensions as to admit a +clear insight into its contents. These were an internal +wooden coffin, very much decayed, and the body +carefully wrapped up in cerecloth, into the folds of +which a quantity of unctuous or greasy matter, mixed +with resin, as it seemed, had been melted, so as to +exclude, as effectually as possible, the external air. +The coffin was completely full, and, from-the tenacity +of the cerecloth, great difficulty was experienced in +detaching it successfully from the parts which it developed. +Wherever the unctuous matter had insinuated +itself, the separation of the cerecloth was easy; +and when it came off, a correct impression of the +features to which it had been applied was observed +in the unctuous substance. At length the whole face +was disengaged from its covering. The complexion of +the skin of it was dark and discolored. The +forehead and temples had lost little or nothing of +their muscular substance. The cartilage of the nose +was gone, but the left eye, in the first moment of +exposure, was open and full, though it vanished +almost immediately; and the pointed beard, so +characteristic of the reign of King Charles, was +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_135" id="Page_135" title="135"></a></span>perfect The shape of the face was a long oval. +Many of the teeth remained, and the left ear, in +consequence of the interposition of some unctuous +matter between it and the cerecloth, was found +entire. It was difficult at this moment to withhold +a declaration, that, notwithstanding its disfigurement, +the countenance did bear a strong resemblance +to the coins, the busts, and especially to the picture +of King Charles I. by Vandyke, by which it had +been made familiar to us. It is true that the minds +of the spectators of this interesting sight were well +prepared to receive this impression; but it is also +certain that such a facility of belief had been occasioned +by the simplicity and truth of Mr. Herbert's +narrative, every part of which had been confirmed +by the investigation, so far as it had advanced; and +it will not be denied that the shape of the face, the +forehead, an eye, and the beard, are the most important +features by which resemblance is determined. +When the head had been entirely disengaged from +the attachments which confined it; it was found to be +loose, and without any difficulty was taken up and +held to view. It was quite <i>wet</i>, and gave a greenish-red +tinge to paper and linen which touched it. The +back part of the scalp was entirely perfect, and had +a remarkably fresh appearance—the pores of the +skin being more distinct, as they usually are when +soaked in moisture, and the tendons and ligaments +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_136" id="Page_136" title="136"></a></span>of the neck were of considerable substance and +firmness. The hair was thick at the back part of +the head, and, in appearance, nearly black. A portion +of it, which has since been cleaned and dried, +is of a beautiful dark-brown color. That of the +beard was of a redder brown. On the back part of +the head it was about an inch in length, and had +probably been cut so short for the convenience of +the executioner, or, perhaps, in order to furnish +memorials of the unhappy king. On holding up +the head to examine the place of separation from +the body, the muscles of the neck had evidently +retracted themselves considerably, and the fourth +cervical vertebra was found to be cut through its +substance transversely, leaving the surfaces of the +divided portions perfectly smooth and even; an appearance +which could only have been produced by a +heavy blow, inflicted with a very sharp instrument, +and which furnished the last proof wanting to +identify Charles I. After this examination, which +served every purpose in view, and without examining +the body below the neck; it was immediately restored +to its situation, the coffin was soldered up +again, and the vault closed."</p> + +<p class="text">This state of things precisely tallied with the account +which Herbert, the faithful servant of Charles, +had given as to the place of his sepulture.</p> + +<p class="text">In this chapel, too, is the cenotaph of the late +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_137" id="Page_137" title="137"></a></span>Princess Charlotte, who was wife to Leopold, now +King of Belgium. I do not much admire it.</p> + +<p class="text">The exquisite beauty of the windows, and the +gorgeous splendor of the roof, will always make +this place live in my memory. The terraces are +very beautiful walks; and from Queen Elizabeth's +terrace you have a noble view of Eton College. +Of course, we were pleased to see "the distant spires +and antique towers" which are so celebrated in the +lines of Gray. The college looms up finely, and +greatly adds to the prospect. Eton was founded in +1440, by Henry VI. The number of scholars is +about eight hundred and fifty. This college has +produced some of the greatest men in England, and +the young nobility are generally educated here. The +college has two quadrangles, and the chapel is a fine +Gothic building. All this region is beautified by the +Thames winding through the valley. Here is the +gem of villages, Datchett, where Sir Henry Wotton +and Izaak Walton used to enjoy the rod and line. +No one who has any taste can come to Windsor and +not think of the immortal bard who has made so +much capital out of this place. At all events, we +wanted to see Herne's Oak.</p> + +<p class="text">We took a carriage and passed the day in riding +through the great park, and took our way through +the well-known avenue, called the Long Walk. This +is three miles in length, and has a double row of +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_138" id="Page_138" title="138"></a></span>magnificent elms. It is directly in front of the +south side of the castle, and terminates in a colossal +equestrian statue of George III., standing on an +immense pedestal of blocks of granite. Nothing +can exceed in beauty the beeches of this park, +which contains three thousand acres. Immense +herds of deer are seen under the trees. Nowhere +have I seen such fine old trees. Here is a beech-tree +thirty-six feet round, seven feet from the ground! +One oak of similar size is called William the Conqueror's +Oak. We went to Virginia Water, the +largest sheet of water—that is, artificial—in Great +Britain. We saw the little cottage where George +IV. passed so much of his time. It is a pretty place, +but it only shows that the mind is more likely to be +pleased with the simple than the grand.</p> + +<p class="text">The gardener at the cottage—which I think is +called Cumberland Lodge—showed us through the +conservatory. We did not much admire the Fishing +Temple, or the floating miniature navy. The scenery +is charming, and worthy of Poussin. The +walk by the water, to the tavern, cannot be surpassed. +On our return we passed Frogmore, the +residence of the Duchess of Kent; it seems a pretty, +unpretending place.</p> + +<p class="text">Nothing would repay the tourist better than to +pass three or four days, in this vicinity. Village +after village, and villa after villa, claims the admiration +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_139" id="Page_139" title="139"></a></span>of the traveller; and perhaps England has no more +beautiful rural scenery than may here be found. +We had seven or eight hours of perfect delight upon +our ride; and when we reached the White Hart, at +Windsor, we were well prepared for doing justice to +an excellent dinner. Our pleasure at Windsor was +much increased by the company of a gentleman of +high literary reputation, and who is distinguished as +the author of several successful works.</p> + +<p class="center">Affectionately yours,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">weld</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_19" id="Letter_19"></a>Letter 19.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">We are just returned from a most pleasant visit +to Sir John Soane's Museum. This gentleman was +an architect, and a most determined antiquary; and +when he died he left his wonderful collection to the +nation, having obtained an act of Parliament for preserving +it and endowing its maintenance. We obtained +a government order, and went to the house +which was Sir John's private residence, in Lincoln's +Inn Fields. Never did I behold such a sight. The +house is spacious, but every nook and corner—and +it is full of unimaginable ones—is filled up with +precious matters. Here are Roman and Grecian +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_140" id="Page_140" title="140"></a></span>relics; fragments of vases from Herculaneum; and +the far-famed Egyptian sarcophagus brought over by +Belzoni. The latter is made of one piece of alabaster, +nearly ten feet long. It is inscribed all over +with hieroglyphics, and cost Sir John a large sum. +I shall see nothing in all Europe that will take my +fancy as much as this museum, I am sure. There +are twenty-five distinct apartments; and if you can +find a square foot in the house not occupied, you +would do more than I was able to. The catalogue +of this museum I shall value highly, and that will +give you a better idea than I can of its contents. I +had no common pleasure in finding here the original +paintings of the Rake's Progress, by Hogarth, the +engravings of which we have so admired. These pictures +were painted in 1734, and were bought by Sir J. +Soane, in 1802, for five hundred and seventy guineas. +And here, too, are Hogarth's great paintings of the +Election—a series of four pictures. These unrivalled +works of comic art were bought of Garrick's +widow by Soane, in 1823, for sixteen hundred and +fifty guineas! The collection of paintings is by no +means despicable, and we saw a few pictures not +soon to be forgotten. The Views of Venice, by +Canaletti, are very fine; and there are some gems by +Reynolds, Danby, Turner, Hamilton, Lawrence, and +Bird. I must tell you how they have economized +room in the apartment devoted to pictures. The +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_141" id="Page_141" title="141"></a></span>ceiling is very richly adorned with ornaments, forming +arched canopies. On the north and west sides +of this room are cabinets, and on the south are +<i>movable planes</i>, with space between for pictures. So, +in a room of thirteen feet eight inches by twelve feet +four inches, there are as many pictures as could be +placed on the walls of a gallery of the same height, +forty-five feet long and twenty broad. In the crypt +is an ancient tomb, and models, in cork, of tombs, +at Capua.</p> + +<p class="text">There are some precious <i>souvenirs</i> of Napoleon +to be seen,—as portraits, miniatures, pistols, &c.,—a +fine collection of painted glass, and a countless lot +of antiques, intaglios, autographs, and watches. If +ever you find yourself in London, I charge you, get +to this same place for a long morning. In the afternoon +we took steamer and Went to Greenwich, +five miles from town, to see the Hospital for Seamen. +Charles II. built this place for a royal palace,—and +a noble one it is,—but William and Mary +gave it up to the use of old and worn-out seamen; +and as England owes every thing to Jack Tar, it +seems fit that, when old and crazy, his last days +should be made comfortable. A very large income +arises from the exhibition of the fine picture gallery +here to be seen. Here is quite enough to please +any one who is curious, and to gratify boys amazingly; +and this you will credit when I tell you some +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_142" id="Page_142" title="142"></a></span>things that we saw. The coat and waistcoat worn +by Nelson when he was killed, on the Victory, at +Trafalgar; models of celebrated ships; original +painting of Sir Walter Raleigh; Sir Cloudesley +Shovel, who was lost, with all his crew, on the +Scilly Islands, in Queen Anne's reign; Admiral +Kempenfeldt, lost in the Royal George, 1782; Lord +Nelson; Lord Collingwood; and almost all the great +naval commanders of Great Britain. Then, too, +there are large paintings of the great sea fights. +One of Trafalgar, by Turner, is very fine, and so is +a large one of Nelson's death.</p> + +<p class="text">There is a room besides all I have alluded to, +called the Nelson Room, and which illustrates all his +history; and there are, all about the rooms, some +exquisitely fine colossal busts, executed by Flaxman, +Bailey, and Westmacott. The chapel is thought to +be one of the most beautiful in England. The entire +of this great national glory is kept in the cleanest +manner; and the only thing to complain of is a +want of politeness in the guides. This is in contrast +to other places; for we have found the guides +very kind and civil at all other places. We have +recently visited the Queen's stables, by order from +Mr. Lawrence. Every thing was very clean and +spacious. Some of the horses were exceedingly +beautiful. The harness-room made a display. The +cream-colored horses belonging to the state carriage +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_143" id="Page_143" title="143"></a></span>are noble animals. I believe they are brought from +Hanover, or came originally thence. The state carriage +is an immense lumbering affair, made of carvings +and gold. It must be of great weight. The +sides are richly painted. It is never used but at the +opening of Parliament and similar occasions. The +queen's carriages which are ordinarily used are numerous +and very elegant, but in good taste. One +of our number—you may guess who it was—sadly +wanted a hair from the tail of the queen's favorite +riding horse. The riding school is spacious, +but not much better than a private one that we +know in New York.</p> + +<p class="text">We took dinner one day at Soyer's Symposium, +at Gore House. Soyer is the great master of ceremonies +in London for all matters of the <i>cuisine.</i> +Gore House was once the home of Wilberforce and +Lord Rodney, but is better known as the residence +of the late Countess of Blessington. It is now a +hotel. The grounds are extensive, and the trees are +some of the finest around London, and I have never +seen a lovelier spot of the same size. It is alive +with blackbirds, thrushes, linnets, and goldfinches. +As you enter, you find a vestibule, which is called the +cupola of Jupiter Tonans. Through this you pass +to "the hall of architectural wonders," then to "the +Blessington Temple of the Muses." This apartment +leads to "the Transatlantic Ante-Chamber," +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_144" id="Page_144" title="144"></a></span>which is adorned with all sorts of American emblems. +Then there are, in succession, "the Alcove of White +Roses," "the Birth of Gems," and other rooms of +great gorgeousness. One room is the "Palace of +the North," which is apparently made entirely of ice, +and out of the wall of which is issuing a polar bear. +In the pleasure grounds is a "baronial hall," one +hundred feet long, fifty broad, and thirty high; and +besides this an enormous tent, called "the Encampment +for all Nations." Here, at a table four hundred +feet long, fifteen hundred persons can be dined +at a cheap rate. A table-cloth for this affair cost +Soyer two hundred pounds sterling. We had a very +pleasant dinner with the Rev. Dr. Harris, President +of New College, whose works are so well known in +America. The room we occupied was "the Alcove +of White Roses." The Symposium stands near to +the Crystal Palace, and accommodates the strangers +admirably. That dinner was two days ago, however; +and I am reminded that another is necessary +today, and must leave off to prepare for it.</p> + +<p class="center">I am yours truly,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">james.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_145" id="Page_145" title="145"></a></span></p> +<h2><a name="Letter_20" id="Letter_20"></a>Letter 20.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">Yesterday we visited the two great ecclesiastical +edifices of the metropolis,—St. Paul's Cathedral and +Westminster Abbey,—and I will endeavor to convey +to your mind some idea of the impression which +they left upon my own. These structures are by +name familiar to you, and you have seen engravings +of the mighty dome of St. Paul's and the double +towers of the Abbey. I had often gazed on these +pictured representations, but I find that they did not +convey to my mind any adequate notions of the +originals. Like the Pyramids, or our own Niagara, +they must be seen to be understood. In so +vast a place as London, it is absolutely necessary for +sight-seers to adopt something like system in their +arrangements; so we agreed to devote one day to the +examination of the metropolitan Cathedral Church, +and of the ancient edifice in which the monarchs of +England are crowned. We quitted our hotel at nine +o'clock, and, pushing our way through the hurrying +crowds of the Strand, speedily arrived at Temple +Bar. We then turned down a dingy, narrow passage, +on our right hand; this led us to the Temple, +which is like a little town of itself, and is almost +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_146" id="Page_146" title="146"></a></span>exclusively inhabited by lawyers. It was amusing +enough to notice the gentlemen in powdered horse-hair +wigs and flowing black robes, like a clergyman's, +who every now and then emerged from some open +door, and flitted across the courts, each having a +bundle of papers tied with red tape, or a book +under his arm. Whilst occupied in observing these +Templars of modern times, the tones of an organ +fell on my ear, for we were close to the Temple +Church, one of the most beautiful sanctuaries in the +world. The early morning service was not concluded +so we entered without ceremony. Externally, +the building has little in the way of architectural +decorations to recommend it. It is low, destitute of +tower or steeple, and surrounded by gloomy-looking +lawyers' offices. But no sooner had we crossed the +threshold than a scene of surpassing beauty burst +upon us. I should here tell you that this edifice, +which is intended for the exclusive use of members +of the Temple, is very ancient. The church formerly +belonged to the Knights Templars. It was built in +1185, and the choir was added in 1240. For years +and years the building was neglected by the legal +gentlemen; but in 1839 it was proposed to restore +the former glories of the place, and the outlay of +seventy thousand pounds has caused it to stand out +in all its pristine beauty. The form of the church +is octagonal. The ceiling, sides, and altar are all +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_147" id="Page_147" title="147"></a></span>decorated in the mediæval style. The pipes of the +organ dazzle you with their purple and golden +splendors. The floor is of encaustic tiles. On the +walls are displayed the names and coats of arms of +those members of the Temple who have been raised +to the dignity of judges. On all these objects the +sunshine, streaming through superbly-painted windows, +produced quite a kaleidoscope effect. The +<i>coup d'œil</i> was almost too dazzling, and strikingly +contrasted in my mind with the primitive simplicity +of our New England churches. In this church +I found that some great men had been buried. The +learned Sir John, Selden, the author of "Table +Talk;" Howell, whose old letters we have so much +enjoyed together; Gibbon the historian, and Oliver +Goldsmith, lie just outside the church. The preacher +of this church is called the master of the Temple, and +the great Hooker once held this post. Having +gratified our curiosity by an inspection of this +gem of church architecture, we quitted the building, +and, after a pleasant stroll through the Temple +Gardens,—a sweet spot, and spoken of by Shakspeare +as the place where the distinction of the Red +and White Roses was first seen,—embarked on one +of the river steamboats, which rapidly conveyed us to +Blackfriars Bridge.</p> + +<p class="text">The finest view of St. Paul's Cathedral is, unquestionably, +from the Thames. When seen from +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_148" id="Page_148" title="148"></a></span>the streets, only portions of its colossal magnitude +can be observed. On all sides it is hemmed in by +houses, which, pygmies though they be, prevent an +uninterrupted view of the architectural giant. But +from the middle of the Thames, the cathedral is +seen in all its glory; towering above the surrounding +marts of trade, it stands out the grand point of attraction.</p> + +<p><br /></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a name="St_Paul39s_Cathedral" id="St_Paul39s_Cathedral"></a> +<a href="images/pg151.png"><img src="images/pg151_th.png" width="400" height="327" alt="St. Paul's Cathedral." title="St. Paul's Cathedral." /> +</a><span class="caption">St. Paul's Cathedral.</span> +</div> +<p><br /></p> + +<p class="text">Here may be observed, to advantage, the surpassing +beauty of the great dome, which dwarfs the +towers and steeples of the surrounding churches +almost into nothingness. The general aspect of the +cathedral is said to resemble St. Peter's, at Rome, +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_149" id="Page_149" title="149"></a></span>but the symmetry of the dome of the latter is acknowledged +to be less beautiful than that of its +London rival.</p> + +<p class="text">We landed at Blackfriars Bridge Stairs; and, after +ascending Ludgate Hill, arrived at the great northern +door of the cathedral. In reply to the rap of our +knuckles at the huge portals, it slowly swung back +on its hinges, and a grim, surly-looking face appeared. +The figure which belonged to the face was +clad in a rusty and seedy black robe, from beneath +which a hand was thrust forth, and the words, "two-pence +each," sounded harshly on our ears. Two-pence +each was accordingly paid, and then the surly +janitor, or verger, as he is called, admitted us within +the building. In a moment afterwards, we were +beneath the dome of St. Paul's. If this part of +the edifice has appeared imposing when viewed from +without, how much grander did it seem now that we +stood on the marble pavement below, and gazed +upward into the vast concave which the genius of +Sir Christopher Wren had designed. The scene to +my mind was most impressive, and the impressiveness +was heightened by a continuous dull roar, which never +ceased for a moment. This ceaseless noise was +produced by the numerous carriages passing and +repassing without. The concavity of the dome, I suppose, +condensed the sound into a subdued thunder, +like that which one hears at a short distance from +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_150" id="Page_150" title="150"></a></span>the Falls of Niagara. Against the huge pillars, and +in various niches, were the statues of eminent men; +some of them erected by the nation, as a commemoration +of naval or military services, and others as +tributes to great personal worth, or to public +benefactors. Among the statues of the men of +peace, that of Dr. Samuel Johnson, the great lexicographer, +particularly interested me. The celebrated +moralist is represented seated. One hand holds +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_151" id="Page_151" title="151"></a></span>a scroll, the other rests upon a pedestal. The +likeness is said to be well preserved. The sculptor +was Bacon. There was the capacious forehead, the +thick bushy eyebrows, the large mouth, the double +chin, the clumsy person, and the thick, ungainly +legs, which had been rendered familiar to me +through the portraits which I had seen in the +Johnsonia. As I gazed on that marble tribute to +genius and worth, I could not but remember, Charley, +how Johnson had frequently walked the streets +of London all night, because he had not the wherewithal +to pay for a lodging. Near to Johnson's +monument was that of Howard the philanthropist. +We noticed a very fine one to Sir Joshua Reynolds; +also statues to Bishop Heber, Abercrombie, Cornwallis, +Sir John Moore, Sir Astley Cooper, Sir +Thomas Lawrence, and Benjamin West.</p> + +<p><br /></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 243px;"> +<a name="Dr_Samuel_Johnson" id="Dr_Samuel_Johnson"></a> +<a href="images/pg153.png"><img src="images/pg153_th.png" width="243" height="400" alt="Dr. Samuel Johnson" title="Dr. Samuel Johnson" /> +</a><span class="caption">Dr. Samuel Johnson.</span> +</div> +<p><br /></p> + +<p class="text">But the greatest attraction of St. Paul's is the +sarcophagus, in which repose the remains of England's +greatest naval hero, Lord Nelson. Situated +immediately beneath the centre of the great dome is +a diamond-shaped tablet, which marks the spot beneath +which rests, after his career of glory, the hero +of the Nile and Trafalgar. His body rests in a sarcophagus +in the vaults below. Exactly beneath the +tablet lies the huge coffin, with the name "<span class="smcap">NELSON</span>" +engraven on its side. No epitaph, no labored panegyric, +no fulsome praise; and Englishmen, I think, +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_152" id="Page_152" title="152"></a></span>were right in supposing that the simple name of +their hero was enough for fame. This sarcophagus +was made by Cardinal Wolsey; and here Nelson +was placed, in a coffin made out of the mainmast +of the French ship, L'Orient.</p> + +<p class="text">The grim verger recommended us to ascend to +the dome, and, after paying fresh fees, we mounted +an enormously long and steep-winding staircase, +which led us to the base of the dome. Here was a +circular gallery, surrounded with a railing. Scarcely +had we entered this gallery, when the attendant purposely +slammed the entrance door, and immediately +a loud peal, as of thunder, reverberated through the +vast building; then he requested us to listen whilst +he whispered against the smooth wall directly opposite +to us. The effect was startling; every word +was as distinct as though the speaker's lips had been +close to my ear. This is known as the Whispering +Gallery, and is one of the great lions of the place.</p> + +<p class="text">We now prepared to ascend still higher, and, +after a tedious journey, arrived at the gilded gallery, +which surmounts the dome. From hence we enjoyed +a magnificent view of London, for, fortunately, +the atmosphere was comparatively clear, and the +everlasting canopy of smoke which overhangs London +was not so dense as usual. Spread out before +us lay the great wilderness of brick and mortar, +through which the shining Thames, like a huge +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_153" id="Page_153" title="153"></a></span>snake, pursued its sinuous course, spanned at intervals +by bridges, and bearing, on its broad bosom the +gathered treasures of many a far-distant nation. +The streets, diminished to mere lanes, looked alive +with Lilliputians; miniature horses and carriages appeared +like so many German automaton toys which +had been wound up and set a-going. Far away to the +westward patches of green, studded with trees, denoted +the parks, in one of which glittered the glass +roof and sides of the Crystal Palace; and still more +remote were glimpses of the free, fresh, open country, +along which, at intervals, would rush railway +trains, bearing hundreds of passengers to various +parts of England. Above my head glittered, in the +brilliant sunshine, the ball and cross which, at a +height of four hundred and four feet, stands proudly +over London, and may be seen from various parts +of the metropolis. Another fee secured our passage +to the interior of this globe of gilded copper, and +which is about six feet in diameter, and will hold +several persons. To reach it, I had to ascend a +ladder and creep through an aperture at the bottom +of the sphere. This was not worth the labor, but +then we could say we had attained the highest point +of the cathedral. I hear that ladies sometimes venture +into the ball; if so, their timidity is insufficient +to baffle their curiosity. This accomplished, we +retraced our steps, and visited the portion of St. +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_154" id="Page_154" title="154"></a></span>Paul's in which divine service is performed. About +a dozen boys, dressed in white surplices, were +chanting sweetly; a dull-looking clergyman read the +service indifferently; and a score of poor people, +with one or two well-dressed persons, formed the +congregation. We then departed for Westminster +Abbey, which must form the subject of another +letter.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">weld.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_21" id="Letter_21"></a>Letter 21.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">What shall I tell you about Westminster Abbey? +I hope I may be able to say enough to make you +long to see it, and determine you to read all you can +about it. By the way, I have satisfied myself that +I can learn the best things about such places by +carefully reading good histories and examining the +best engravings. This abbey claims to have been +built, in 616, by a Saxon king. It was enlarged by +Edgar and Edward the Confessor, and was rebuilt +as it now appears by Henry III. and Edward I. In +this church all the sovereigns of England have been +crowned, from Edward the Confessor down to Victoria; +and not a few of them have been buried here. +The architecture, excepting Henry VII.'s Chapel; is +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_155" id="Page_155" title="155"></a></span>of the early English school. Henry's chapel is of +the perpendicular Gothic. The western towers were +built by Sir Christopher Wren.</p> + +<p class="text">We entered at the door leading to the Poet's +Corner. We gazed with interest on the monuments +of Chatham, Pitt, Fox, and Canning, Prince Rupert, +Monk, Chaucer, Spenser, Beaumont, Fletcher, Ben +Jonson, Cowley, Dryden, Dr. Watts, Addison, Gay, +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_156" id="Page_156" title="156"></a></span>Sheridan, and Campbell. Here, too, are tablets to +Barrow, South, Garrick, Handel, Clarendon, Bishop +Atterbury, Sir Isaac Newton, and old Parr, who died +at the age of one hundred and fifty-two.</p> + +<p><br /></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 307px;"> +<a name="Poets39_Corner_Westminster_Abbey" id="Poets39_Corner_Westminster_Abbey"></a> +<a href="images/pg158.png"><img src="images/pg158_th.png" width="307" height="400" alt="Poets' Corner, Westminster Abbey." title="Poets' Corner, Westminster Abbey." /> +</a><span class="caption">Poets' Corner, Westminster Abbey.</span> +</div> +<p><br /></p> + +<p class="text">The associations of this building are every thing +to the stranger. I will just give you a list of names +of the kings and queens buried here—Sebert, Edward +the Confessor, Henry III., Edward I., Queen +Eleanor, Edward III. and his queen, Philippa, +Richard II. and his queen, Henry V., Henry VII. +and his queen, Ann of Cleves, queen of Henry +VIII., Edward VI., Bloody Mary, Mary, Queen +of Scots, Queen Elizabeth, James I. and his +queen, Queen of Bohemia, Charles II., William +III. and Mary, Queen Anne, George II. and Queen +Caroline.</p> + +<p class="text">We took the circuit of the chapels, beginning +with St. Benedict. Here many eminent churchmen +have been interred. The next is St. Edmond's, +which contains twenty monuments; the +monument of the Earl of Pembroke, brother of +Henry III.; he died 1298. Here, too, are tombs of +children of Edward II. and Edward III. I noticed +a very fine brass monument, which represents a +Duchess of Gloucester in her dress as a nun, dated +1399. There is, too, the effigy of the Duchess of +Suffolk, mother of poor Lady Jane Grey. The +third is St. Nicholas's Chapel, where is seen Lord +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_157" id="Page_157" title="157"></a></span>Burleigh's monument. The fourth is the Virgin +Mary's Chapel, called Henry VII.'s Chapel, and the +ascent to which is by twelve or fourteen steps. This +glorious room consists of a central aisle, with five +small chapels and two side aisles. Here you see the +stalls and banners of the Knights of the Bath, who +were formerly installed in this chapel. The altar +tomb of Henry VII. is truly beautiful; Lord Bacon +said, "It is one of the costliest and daintiest tombs +in Europe." Here are tombs of his mother, and +the mother of Lord George Darnley, and Mary, +Queen of Scots, and the Duke of Buckingham, +Queen Elizabeth, and Queen Mary. Here, too, is a +sarcophagus, which is supposed to contain the remains +of Edward V. and the Duke of York, discovered +in the Tower in the seventeenth century, in +a box. Charles II., William and Mary, and Queen +Anne are in a vault on the south aisle. George II. +and his queen, Caroline, lie together, a side being +taken out of each coffin. The fifth chapel is St. +Paul's. The most striking object here is a colossal +portrait statue of James Watt, the great steam-engine +perfecter, if not inventor. This is by Chantrey, +and cost six thousand pounds, and seems quite +out of place. Archbishop Usher lies in this chapel. +The sixth chapel, called Edward the Confessor's, +pleased me greatly. In the centre is the shrine of +the monarch saint; it is rich in mosaic adornments. +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_158" id="Page_158" title="158"></a></span>The altar tomb of Henry III. is very grand, and +there is a noble bronze statue of the king. Edward +I. is here, and in 1774 his body was found almost +entire. Edward III. and Philippa, his queen, have +tombs. Here, too, was Henry V., the hero of Agincourt, +Richard II. and queen. We were delighted +with the two coronation chairs; in one is the old +stone of Scone, on which the early Scotch kings +used to be crowned. Edward I. carried it off, and +it has ever since figured in English coronations. It +is a large piece of red and gray sandstone, and +claims to have been the veritable pillow on which +Jacob slept. The seventh chapel is that of St. +Erasmus, and leads to the eighth, which is John the +Baptist's. Here rest the early abbots of the church. +It contains a very fine monument to Lord Hunsdon, +chamberlain to Queen Bess. Just outside, in the +aisle, we found the noble monument to General +Wolfe, and the celebrated work of Roubilliac in +memory of Mrs. Nightingale, where death is seen +throwing his dart at the wife, who falls into her +husband's arms.</p> + +<p class="text">All over this noble abbey did we wander again +and again in repeated visits, and admire the finest +statuary we have ever seen. Roubilliac was a wonderful +genius, and his monument to Sir Peter Warren +is exquisite. The works of Bacon, Flaxman, +Nollekins, Chantrey, and Westmacott have made me +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_159" id="Page_159" title="159"></a></span>in love with statuary; and I long to see the great +works which are to be seen on the continent.</p> + +<p class="text">Many of the tablets and statues are only honorary, +as the persons commemorated were not buried here; +as Shakspeare, Southey, Thomson, Goldsmith, Dr. +Watts, &c. I could spend hours looking at Roubilliac's +monument for the Duke of Argyle and his +statue for Handel.</p> + +<p class="text">We attended divine service one Sunday afternoon, +and heard a very fine sermon from Lord John +Thynne. The abbey was crowded; the music the +best I ever heard in a church; the preacher was +quite eloquent; and Dr. C. observed that it was the +most evangelical sermon he had heard in England. +The subject was on justification by faith:</p> + +<p class="text">I may forget many things that I shall see on our +travels, but I think that this abbey will never vanish +from my recollection. I shall always remember the +very position of these great works of art and +genius; and I am more than repaid for all the +labor of a voyage.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">weld.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_160" id="Page_160" title="160"></a></span></p> +<h2><a name="Letter_22" id="Letter_22"></a>Letter 22.</h2> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">No one comes to London without being told by +every one to go and see the parks; so we have +been to see these fine breathing places. Hyde Park +is about four hundred acres, and has as many as +half a dozen great entrances. Its position is high, +and it is the great drive of the people of fashion. +If you want to see London, you must come here on +a fine summer day in June, at about four o'clock, +and you will gaze on the finest and gayest equipages +of England. A very pretty piece of water is in this +park, which is called "the Serpentine River." The +best skating of London is to be seen here, we are +told, in hard winters. The entrance from Piccadilly +is by a fine threefold arch. Here is the great +Achilles of bronze, in honor of Wellington, made +out of the cannon which the duke captured in Spain. +St. James's and the Green Park: this is the oldest +in London, and was made by Henry VIII. A +fine arch affords entrance from Piccadilly, having +a bronze colossal equestrian statue of the Duke of +Wellington. You get grand views of the Abbey +towers, Buckingham Palace, the York Column, and +other objects of interest. The two parks are about +one hundred and fifty acres. Regent's Park is one +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_161" id="Page_161" title="161"></a></span>of the most attractive spots in this great city. Here +are villas of the finest kind. Some of the prettiest +terraces and rows of houses about London are here +to be seen. This park contains nearly five hundred +acres, and, among other attractions, the Botanical +and Zoölogical Gardens, and the Coliseum. Victoria +Park, near Bethnal Green, is a new one, of +about three hundred acres; but we did not visit it.</p> + +<p class="text">Besides these, there are more than thirty squares, +some of which are very beautiful, and are finely +planted and adorned. Belgrave Square is exceedingly +rich in its appearance; the houses are built in +the Corinthian order.</p> + +<p class="text">Northumberland House, at Charing Cross, is the +city residence of the Duke of Northumberland. +This, externally, has no great beauty, but is surmounted +by the lion of the Percy family. It was +built in 1605. This noble mansion has been politely +opened by its proprietor to the visits of the foreigners +who are here at the exhibition. It is a princely +mansion; and, although we had recently been to +Windsor, and seen the royal residence, yet we +thought this palace home almost regal in its splendor. +The staircase is splendid, and the apartments +are very magnificent. The hall and drawing-rooms +are quite equal, in decorations and paintings, to the +rooms at Windsor. We were much pleased with two +large pictures—a fox and deer hunt, by Snyders; +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_162" id="Page_162" title="162"></a></span>but there were so many, that it is difficult to single +out those we admired. There are some beautiful +paintings of Napoleon, and exquisite carvings in +ivory. In one of the saloons we were all struck +with a large Sevres china vase, presented to the +Duke of Northumberland by Charles X., at his coronation, +at which occasion the duke was present as +ambassador extraordinary, and made a most astonishing +display of English wealth and liberality.</p> + +<p class="text">Sion House, near Brentford, is another palace +belonging to the duke. This noble mansion is on +the banks of the Thames, and is composed of freestone. +It is very gorgeously furnished, and the hothouses +and conservatories are not much, if any, +inferior to Chatsworth. This mansion has also, been +opened to visitors from abroad, and we received +orders from the minister.</p> + +<p class="text">One of the sweetest features about the metropolis, +to my taste, is the vast number of charming villages +that surround it. Go where you may, you fall in +with cottages, villas, and mansions, that convey to +the mind the ideas of comfort, elegance, and +wealth.</p> + +<p class="text">I find from Weld that he forgot to tell you that +we went to St. Margaret's Church, which stands +only a few yards off from Westminster Abbey. +This is a very old building, and said to be of the +days of Edward I. In this very building the +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_163" id="Page_163" title="163"></a></span>celebrated fast-day sermons of the Long Parliament +were preached, and I felt much interest in thinking +how often Cromwell, Pym, Peters, and Harrison +had worshipped God in that house. In this church, +too, the Assembly of Divines worshipped, and also +the Scotch commissioners, and took the covenant. +This church boasts a painted window of exquisite +beauty, which came as a present, from Holland, to +Henry VII.; and the historical associations of this +window are very curious, and well worth your reading +about. The monuments of this sanctuary are +far from being devoid of interest. I may name, +among others, those to Caxton, Sir Walter Raleigh, +Sir James Harrington, author of the great book, +"Oceana," the wife of Milton, the mother of +Cromwell, all of whom are here interred.</p> + +<p class="text">While I am speaking of churches, let me tell you +that, close by our hotel, is a very fine one, that +pleases me exceedingly. It is called St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, +but is at present quite central as it regards +the metropolis. I think the portico is to my +eye equal to any piece of architecture in London. +It was built in 1726. A church stood here for +many centuries; and in 1680, Baxter said that forty +thousand people of the parish could not get into +the church; and he adds that they "lived like +Americans, without hearing a sermon for many +years." This church has an exquisite chime of +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_164" id="Page_164" title="164"></a></span>bells, and they very much amused me every morning.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">james.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_23" id="Letter_23"></a>Letter 23.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">I have not written you for some time. But today +I have seen a number of things which I am +sure you would be pleased with, and so I will tell +you about them. Early in the morning we went to +see the Mansion House. This is the dwelling-house +of the lord mayor of London. It is a fine-looking +building, but has a queer upper story, with small +windows, which look badly, over the noble pillars +and portico. The great room used for public occasions +is the Egyptian Hall, for what reason does not +appear from any thing about it. Here the lord +mayor has his great feasts. I should like to be in +London on the 9th of November, which is his day +of inauguration; and this is the great day for Londoners. +He rides in a large carved gilt carriage. +I believe he goes to Westminster by water, in a +splendid barge, and comes back in his coach. The +salary is eight thousand pounds; but the expenses +are beyond this amount, and some persons refuse to +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_165" id="Page_165" title="165"></a></span>serve, and pay a fine of five hundred pounds; but +this is a rare case, and enough are ready to pay for +the honor. In the city the mayor ranks before the +royal family. The title of "your lordship" ceases +at the expiration of his office.</p> + +<p class="text">Our next visit was to the Royal Exchange, a very +noble quadrangle, which was finished in 1844. It +stands finely between the Bank of England and the +Mansion House, and in front there is a sort of open +space, or widening of the streets. This is the third +building which has occupied the same spot—the +two earlier ones were both burnt down. The +original Exchange was built by Sir Thomas Gresham, +and opened by Queen Elizabeth in 1570. It +was copied from the famous Burse at Antwerp, +which still stands. It is singular that, in the great +fires of 1666 and 1838, the statue of Sir Thomas +Gresham escaped uninjured. The Exchange is +built of Portland stone, and already has acquired, +from the smoke of London, a venerable tinge. The +portico, I am told, is the largest in the kingdom; +but the one at St. Martin's Church I like better. +Crossing over the road, we were at the Bank of +England. This is a truly immense affair. The +walls measure fourteen hundred and sixty feet. It +wad built in 1734, but has had many alterations and +additions, and now covers four acres. We did not +go into it.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_166" id="Page_166" title="166"></a></span>The docks of London are among the attractions +of the place. They are called St. Catharine's, +London, East India, West India, Commercial, &c. +These are tar too great an affair for me to describe; +and to look at them, and then think of writing an +account, is very much like a small boy opening a +book of mathematics and trying to understand it. +What do you think of the tobacco warehouse, at the +docks covering five acres? Then the tea in bonded +warehouses was worth twenty-five millions of dollars; +and there are ten millions of pounds of pepper, six +millions of gallons of wine, and other things in proportion. +I inquired about the shipping, and was +told that there were about four thousand seven hundred +and fifty vessels, and eighty thousand seamen, +employed in the foreign commerce of the city; and +beyond all this, twenty-one thousand coasting vessels, +averaging five or six men to each craft. Nothing in +London amazes us like these docks. Here you see +Malays, Turks, Lascars, Chinese, Russians, Portuguese, +Dutch, French, Negroes, and men of all nations.</p> + +<p class="text">We went several times to walk through Covent +Garden Market, and to see it to advantage you must +go very early in the morning. The supply of fruits +and flowers is perfectly astonishing, and the perfume +is very fine. You little imagine, Charley, the prices +that early vegetables and fruits fetch. A cucumber +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_167" id="Page_167" title="167"></a></span>and onion, wrapped up in grape leaves, will, in February, +March, and early part of April, find purchasers +at two, three, and four dollars. Strawberries, +peaches, and pines are sold in early season at +what we should think "awful" prices. The hothouse +grapes are very beautiful, and the vegetable +productions are more carefully raised, and in greater +variety, than with us. If you want to know all +about Covent Garden Market, you must read Mayhew +on London Labor—a nice book.</p> + +<p class="text">We boys had a treat the other day at an autograph +collector's. His collection was large and +rare, but his prices very high. I have saved a catalogue +for you.</p> + +<p class="text">To-morrow we are off for the continent, and we +are very busy in making our arrangements; so I +must close. Our next will be from <i>La Belle France.</i></p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">george.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_24" id="Letter_24"></a>Letter 24.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Paris.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">On a fine morning we left London, by rail, for +Dover, in company with the Rev. Dr. Murray, of +New Jersey, and Dr. Chetwood, who made quite a +pleasant addition to our party. On reaching Dover, +we were gratified with the commanding position of +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_168" id="Page_168" title="168"></a></span>the castle, which stands upon the white chalky cliffs +so celebrated by Shakspeare. The town lies in a +charming valley. Dover boasts of high antiquity. +The Saxons and Romans both left enduring memorials +of their residence. Its importance was felt at +a very early day, on account of its being the best +and authorized port to carry on intercourse with +France. Dover Castle was a strong fortification +when William the Conqueror landed. We found a +steamer ready to start, and in a few minutes were +all on board. The Straits of Dover are but twenty-one +miles wide; and yet, in this short passage of +barely two hours, we all suffered sadly from sea sickness. +The boat was small, the passengers were numerous, +and all were thankful to plant their feet +upon the soil of the republic. The examination of +our passports, and refreshment at the station-house, +occupied about half an hour, and we again entered +on our journey by the rail. I shall say nothing of +the place, at present, as we fully intend to pass a +day here, on our return, to examine this interesting +old city. We found the cars good, the railroad excellent +but every thing looked strange. No farms +laid out in fine fields, and divided off by hedges, as +in England; or fences and stone walls, as with us. +We every where noticed women working in the +field. We passed through St. Omer, a fortified +town, of twenty thousand inhabitants. This is a +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_169" id="Page_169" title="169"></a></span>town where many English Catholics have been sent +for education. We then came to Lille, which looked +like a large city. It has about seventy thousand +inhabitants. The fortifications look very strong, and +were constructed by the great Vauban. This place +has been besieged several times—once by the +Duke of Marlborough, for three months, when it +surrendered under Marshal Boufflers. We were +amazed at the vast number of windmills—amounting +to hundreds—every where to be seen around +the town; and the tall chimneys in the town tell +plainly that this is a great manufacturing place. +The windmills are employed in preparing flax for +linen.</p> + +<p class="text">Douai was our next town. It has about eighteen +thousand inhabitants, and has a foundery for ordnance. +The Theological Seminary here has been famous, +and most of the Catholic clergy of England and +Ireland were formerly educated here. Arras is a +town of about twenty-five thousand population, and +is celebrated as the birthplace of Robespierre. It +is said to be a very beautiful place, but we saw little +of it. The cars next passed through Amiens, a city +of about fifty thousand inhabitants. It was at this +city that a treaty of peace was made between France +and England, in 1802. Clermont is a very neat +little town, of about five thousand inhabitants. It +has a fine old castle, and every thing looked lively +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_170" id="Page_170" title="170"></a></span>and prosperous. Pontoise, on the River Oise, is a +small town; and I should think that, from the upper +part of the town, the prospect is very beautiful.</p> + +<p class="text">We reached Paris in about eleven hours and a +half from London. Really, this seems very strange, +that I should breakfast in London and dine at Paris. +After having our luggage examined at the station, by +the police, we repaired at once to the Hotel Windsor, +on the Rue Rivoli. This was the hotel where +Dr. C. had his quarters, fifteen years ago; and is it +not strange that we have the same suite of rooms +that he then occupied? We have a fine drawing-room, +a dining-room, and three good chambers. +Our hotel is exactly opposite the gardens of the +Tuileries, and is in the pleasantest part of the city. +James, you know, was once here for three months; +and he has quite a knowledge of the city, and seems +perfectly at home. We take our breakfast in our +apartments or the coffee-room, as suits us best, at +about nine o'clock; our dinners in some good <i>café</i>, +in various parts of the city, or at the <i>table d'hôte</i>, +at Meurice's Hotel, which is just next door to us. +In calling on one or two persons, we found them in +old apartments, but quite noble rooms, as high up as +four and five stories; and we hear that many families +live in the same building, and that many very respectable +people live in the sixth, and even seventh +story. This I should never like. Whenever we go +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_171" id="Page_171" title="171"></a></span>out, we leave our key with the <i>concierge</i> or his wife, +who live in a snug little apartment just inside the +great gate, which opens into a well-paved court. +We have determined not to engage a guide in Paris, +because it is often annoying to have a coarse, vulgar +mind disturbing you, when all you ask is silence and +your own reflections. It is quite a mistake to suppose +that you cannot get along without a <i>valet de +place</i>—for in every hotel, and almost every large establishment, +there are persons to be found who speak +English. We paid our respects to our good friend the +consul, and found him very comfortably settled down +in his office, and residing in excellent style. A pleasant +evening with his family made us all think of our +old times on board the Arctic. The day after we arrived +was James's birthday, and he was to give us a +dinner, and had invited the consul and his son to +dine with us. Well, at five we met at the consulate, +and we boys walked ahead with Mr. G., Jr., +leaving the doctor and the consul to bring up the +rear. He supposed that his father understood where +he proposed to take us, and so we went on speedily. +In the Rue Vivienne they lost sight of us; we arrived +at the Café Vachette, on the boulevards, and ordered +dinner for the party. The gentlemen, however, kept +walking the street for two hours. At last they gave +up the matter as a bad case, and took refuge for a +late dinner by themselves in a neighboring <i>café</i>. At +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_172" id="Page_172" title="172"></a></span>nine we all met, sadly disappointed. The pleasant +occasion had been quite disarranged, and some hard +jokes passed upon our want of tact in not sending +out scouts to search the Rue Vivienne, with the +geography of which the doctor declares he is now +perfectly acquainted—having tramped it for two +hours with the consul. Of course, we all have to +take their jokes upon our defrauding them of a fine +dinner. We have dined since at the <i>Trois Frères +Provençaux</i>, which has the reputation of being one +of the best <i>cafés</i> in Paris. Our room commanded +a perfect view of the quadrangle of the Palais +Royal, and the spectacle was highly interesting. +The accommodations of the room we occupied were +very fine; and nothing could surpass the beauty of +the table linen, plate, &c. We are about to commence +the sights of the city in earnest, and are this +evening to arrange our plans.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">george.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_25" id="Letter_25"></a>Letter 25.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Paris.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">I like this city very much—every one seems so +happy out of doors. Not only the poor, but the +wealthy, are fond of the open air; and a great deal +of time is spent in the gardens and on the boule<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_173" id="Page_173" title="173"></a></span>vards. +Every place seems to have provision made +for the enjoyment of the people. Ices and lemonade +are to be found wherever you go. The appearance +of the streets in Paris is much gayer than those of +London. You see a much greater number of women +walking out, and they are generally very neatly +dressed. But the streets do not look as substantial +as they do in London. If there is more that is +imposing, there is less that keeps up your wonder. +I do not feel able to think that the people here have +much business to do, for every one seems to be engaged +in pleasure; and yet there are great concerns +going on, and the fine manufactures of this city are +only to be done by labor and attention. Nothing, at +our first glances at the city, have pleased us more +than the profusion of flowers every where to be seen. +It is quite common to see men with a rose in the +button hole, or a beautiful carnation. The roses +are my admiration. I never saw such beauties +before; and whether it is owing to the climate, or +to scientific cultivation, I know not, but certainly I +never have beheld such variety or perfection. In +the flower shops you will find very large bunches +of rosebuds, each bunch made up exclusively of +buds of one size, from the dimensions of a pea in +all gradations up to the diameter of a half dollar—not +a leaf opened, simply a bouquet of rosebuds, and +the whole embowered in a delicate sheet of white +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_174" id="Page_174" title="174"></a></span>paper. I reckoned the contents of one, and found +two hundred and sixty-seven buds not larger than a +common pea, and the price was only a franc. The +moss roses are beyond all my conceptions of floral +beauty; and, go where I may, I find every niche of +ground adorned with standard roses of various hues, +and the walls and windows are beautified with brilliant +geraniums, which are evidently great favorites.</p> + +<p class="text">We had a funny affair yesterday. We all went +to make a call upon Mr. D——, and found his residence +in a splendid part of the city; but, instead +of being ushered into his drawing-room, we were +brought into the saloon of no less a personage than +the Lord Bishop of Jamaica! He politely directed +us to the next apartment, where we spent an agreeable +hour with the family, and found that similar +mistakes occur almost daily.</p> + +<p class="text">Our first tramp for a sight was to Notre Dame; +and I shall never forget, Charley, my first view of +this cathedral. The exterior is more striking than +any church edifice that I have yet seen. No engraving +can afford a fair idea of its grandeur to one +who has not seen it, though it will help my mind, to +recall its beauties whenever I see the picture. You +are so well read about Paris, that I hardly need tell +you that eight centuries have rolled away since +Notre Dame was built. It is regarded as the noblest +Gothic pile in France, and is the pride of +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_175" id="Page_175" title="175"></a></span>Paris. The front is one hundred and twenty feet +wide, and the richness of the carvings upon the +exterior is wonderful. I am really glad to see that +great pains are taking to restore and adorn this +church. The decayed stones are taken out, and +new ones replaced, and the carvings also are renewed +where necessary, so that future ages may see +what so delights us. The two towers are forty feet +square and two hundred high, and you ascend by a +staircase of four hundred steps. The form of the +church is that of the Latin cross. Its dimensions +inside are four hundred feet by one hundred and +forty, and the height is one hundred feet. All +through the cathedral is a line of Gothic arches +supported by columns, and, as you enter the great +door, you see the entire edifice. The walls look +bare to my eye, in spite of the paintings. We were +much pleased at seeing the spot where Napoleon +was crowned; and George was in ecstasies, for you +know how thoroughly he goes in for his beau ideal +of the hero. Here are, the splendid candelabra +which the emperor gave on the occasion. We +heard mass, but the service was very formal, and +the priest might have been a real downeaster, for he +had a horrid nasal twang, and his "<i>sanctissime</i>" was +"<i>shanktissime</i>." The history of these churches is +strange, and I think a pretty good book might be +written on the romance of church architecture. +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_176" id="Page_176" title="176"></a></span>The portal of the north aisle of the choir was +erected by a vile assassin, the Duke of Burgundy, +who murdered his cousin, the Duke of Orleans, in +1407. This, of course, was his penance, and fully +expiated his crime. The great bell weighs thirty-two +thousand pounds, and was baptized in presence +of Louis XIV., and is called Emanuel Louise Therese, +after his queen. I cannot attempt to describe +the beauties of this building, inside or out. The +exterior is all flying buttresses, crocketed pinnacles, +and sculpture. Inside you see chapel after chapel; +and as to windows of painted glass, they are studies +for hours. The rose windows are exquisite.</p> + +<p class="text">We repaired to a small chapel used as a sacristy, +or treasure-house of the church. Here we saw the +coronation robes of Napoleon, and splendid capes +and embroideries, in gold and silver, given by +Charles X. and Louis Philippe; and here, too, is +the vertebræ of the late Archbishop of Paris, who +was killed in the revolution of 1848. The bone +has a silver arrow tracing the course of the bullet, +which lies beside it. This is in time to be a saintly +relic, but it seems to me a filthy sight, and in +wretched taste. But Popery knows well what to +do with dead men's bones. For a minute description +of this church, I would refer you to three volumes, +called the "History of Paris," published by +Galignani. On our return we went to the Hotel de +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_177" id="Page_177" title="177"></a></span>Ville, and had the company of M. O——n, whose +kindness did much for us on several occasions. The +Hotel de Ville stands in the Place de Grève, where +so much blood has been shed in other days. Here +the martyrs of the Protestant faith have been put +to death. Here it was that Dubourg was strangled +and burnt by order of Francis II. Dubourg was +a noble character. His last words were, "Father, +abandon me not; neither will I abandon thee."</p> + +<p class="text">This noble pile was begun in 1533, and only +completed in 1841, and in the modern improvements +fifteen millions have been expended. The whole +now forms an immense quadrangle. The front is +Corinthian, with pillars and niches between the windows. +A vast number of statues adorn the front, +and others are in preparation.</p> + +<p class="text">It was at the doorway in the centre that Lamartine, +"the noblest Roman of them all," so gloriously +withstood the mob in February, 1848, declaring that +the red flag should not be the flag of France. I wish +you could see this palace, for such it is, though occupied +by the city authorities. London has nothing to +approach it in splendor. The staircases are gorgeous, +and are so rich in sculpture that only a +sculptor could properly speak of them. We saw +the room where Robespierre held his council and +attempted suicide, and also the window where our +Lafayette embraced Louis Philippe, and presented +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_178" id="Page_178" title="178"></a></span>him to the mob in 1830. It is the same window +where poor Louis XVI. addressed the savages, when +he wore the cap of liberty. By the way, I hate the +sight of that cap, which always reminds me of the +lamp-post executions of the French capital in 1792-3. +Its prevalence in our happy country is owing to +the French mania which once possessed the people, +and has very much died out. The apartments are +regal, and some of them, I think, quite superior to +those of Windsor Castle. In this building is a fine +library, and here are deposited the vast collection +of American books obtained by Vattemare, whom, +you recollect, we saw at Washington.</p> + +<p class="text">I cannot tell you how sorely vexed we are to find +the Louvre shut up for repairs and decoration; +every week they say it is to be reopened, but I fear +we shall leave Paris ere it happens.</p> + +<p class="text">How much we would all give to have you here; +for, though we are glad to tell you what we see, we +feel there are scores of objects which interest us +that we have to pass over, but which would make +your eyes glisten, if you could gaze upon. Well, +my dear fellow, stick to your business, make your +fortune, and then come and look at the beautiful and +fair in the old world; and who knows but perhaps +we may yet chat cosily together in Paris? O, I do +love to wander through this city by moonlight, and +gaze upon the bright, lofty buildings as they loom +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_179" id="Page_179" title="179"></a></span>up so gloriously in the mild lustre of a silvery night. +God bless you.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">james.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_26" id="Letter_26"></a>Letter 26.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Paris.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">We have been to dine at the Palais Royal, at the +<i>Trois Frères Provençaux</i>, of which I suppose the +boys have told you; and I shall only speak about the +fine building, so renowned all over the world. The +Palais Royal is to Paris what Paris is to France. +Its history is briefly this: Cardinal Richelieu built it +for himself; but the king, Louis XIII., was jealous, +and the wily old priest gave it to the monarch, and, +after Richelieu's death, he moved into it. In 1692, +it fell into the hands of Philippe, Duke of Orleans, +as a gift, or marriage portion, from Louis XIV., +and here the great Orleans collection of paintings +was gathered, and which was sold in 1789, at the +breaking out of the great troubles. In 1814, Louis +Philippe obtained it as his inheritance, and lived +there till 1831. The garden is very fine, and is +about seven hundred and fifty feet by three hundred, +and has beautiful rows of lime-trees, trimmed into +shape, as are most of these trees in Paris. In the +centre are flower gardens and a basin of water, +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_180" id="Page_180" title="180"></a></span>with a fine fountain. In this open space are beautiful +bronze and marble statues. One I admired exceedingly; +it is Eurydice, stung by a snake. In this +garden are hundreds of persons under the trees, on +chairs, which are hired, where they read and take +refreshments. Under the arcades which surround +the area are the most tasty shops of Paris, and +where you may get any thing you please. A gayer +sight than this same Palais Royal, or, as they now +call it, Palais National, cannot be seen in this world. +I shall not attempt to tell you about the apartments +of the palace, and which you can read of at your +leisure. What a loss it was to the world when, in +February, 1848, six hundred thousand engravings, +all classified by Louis Philippe, and making one hundred +and twenty-two enormous folios, were destroyed +by the mob, and the queen's own library also!</p> + +<p class="text">We lounged about from one shop to another, and +made purchases of some pretty things, which we +hope may serve to show friends at home that we did +not quite forget them.</p> + +<p class="text">The Passage d'Orleans will never die out from +my memory, nor shall I ever forget the Café d'Orleans, +with its mirrors, walls, and ceilings, all radiant +with a thousand lights. We find at every few steps +the magazine for the Indian weed, and all varieties +of pipe, from the commonest <i>en bois</i> to the elegantly +carved <i>ecume de mer</i>, which would cost two or three +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_181" id="Page_181" title="181"></a></span>hundred francs. Here, too, are the Theatres Français +and Palais Royal, and other places of amusement.</p> + +<p class="text">In our walks about the city we are sure to have +all the notable places pointed out; and one morning, +just after I had obtained a Henry IV. silver coin, in +fine preservation, we were taken home by a long +walk through the Rue St. Honore. The house +No. 3, in this street, is the one in front of which +Henry IV. was assassinated by Ravaillac. A bust of +the king stands against the second story, with an inscription. +In the Rue Vivienne, No. 34, we saw the +house where Molière died, on which is a marble tablet, +with this inscription: "<i>Molière est mort dans +cette maison, le </i>17<i> Février</i>, 1673, <i>à l'âge de</i> 51 <i>ans.</i>" +At the corner of the same street, where a small passage +way branches off, is a fine monument to the +memory of the great poet and the noblest comic +writer of France. The statue is of bronze, in a sitting +posture; on each side are figures,—one humorous, +the other serious,—both looking at the statue. At +the foot of the monument is a basin to receive water, +which flows from three lions' heads. This work was +put up in 1844, with public services, on which occasion +the first men of France took a part. Another +morning's walk led us to the Rue de l'École de +Médecine, and in this street Marat lived, at No. 20, +and here it was, in a small room, that he was +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_182" id="Page_182" title="182"></a></span>stabbed, while bathing, by Charlotte Corday, in +1793. And in this same street was held the old +club of the Cordeliers.</p> + +<p class="text">When I see the places of which I have heard so +often it seems very interesting, and will forever identify +the scenes with my future reading.</p> + +<p class="text">We all enjoyed a visit to the palace of the Luxembourg. +This edifice was begun in the sixteenth +century, and the present palace was chiefly built early +in the next one, by Marie de Medicis, in imitation +of one at Florence. Bonaparte used it when chief +consul. The old senate held its sessions there till +its dissolution, in 1814. I never saw a building +whose proportions appeared to me so elegant. The +court is a parallelogram of three hundred and sixty +by three hundred feet. The front consists of two +pavilions, joined by terraces, and in the centre rises +a cupola, around which are statues. In such a palace +fine rooms are to be expected, and here they +are in great number. The Senate Chamber or +Chamber of Peers, is very suitable for its purpose. +The library is good, and contains about fifteen thousand +volumes. The picture gallery is large, and at +present principally filled with pictures of living artists, +and at his death the picture of each one is removed +to the Louvre. All the great paintings of +Napoleon's battles are gone to Versailles; so we shall +see them in the series. The chapel is an exquisite +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_183" id="Page_183" title="183"></a></span>gem: it has, beyond all comparison, the most devotional +air of any thing I have seen <i>of the sort</i>.</p> + +<p class="text">The gardens are fine, and have some noble terraces, +adorned with plenty of statues, some of which +are quite old; but a great many new ones, by living +artists, are rapidly taking their places. The balustrades +of the terraces are beautified with groups of +children, athletæ, &c. Here are some fine old orange-trees, +which were throwing out their blossoms +most fragrantly; and I must not forget the noble +clusters of chestnut-trees which are on the sides of +the walks. The garden is a lovely spot, and I saw +hundreds of old and young, who seemed to enjoy +themselves highly. I am half surprised to find myself +more delighted in Europe with the completeness +and splendor of the gardens and public grounds than +with the palaces and their internal gorgeousness. If +I could carry back to my own beloved country any +thing from England or France, it should be their gardens, +their walks, their libraries and museums. As to +the comforts and elegances of life, we have enough +of them for our good. The Musée d'Artillerie is +quite a place of interest, and here are seen some +fine suits of ancient armor. The arrangement is +good, and an hour's attention is well repaid.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">weld.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_184" id="Page_184" title="184"></a></span></p> +<h2><a name="Letter_27" id="Letter_27"></a>Letter 27.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Paris.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">This has been a great day for enjoyment, and has +made us all in love with Paris. We have seen, this +morning, that which has pleased me more than all +else I have looked at in Europe. We spent several +hours at the Hotel de Cluny, in the Rue des Mathurins. +I am surprised that so many Americans come +to Paris and never see this castle of curiosities. To +understand our gratification, I must bore you a little +with its history, and then you will see what a treat +we enjoyed. This venerable pile was erected on +the site of the Palais des Thermes, formerly the +dwelling-place of the Roman governors of Gaul. +Here Julian lived when he was made emperor of +Rome, in 360. Of the extraordinary remains of +this palace I shall tell you by and by. On this spot, +then, in 1480, an abbot of Cluny commenced this +building, and it was completed in 1505. This magnificent +monastery—the city residence of the monks +of Cluny—was often made the residence of royal +and distinguished visitors. Here for two years lived +Mary, the daughter of Henry VII. of England, and +widow of Louis XII. of France, who, while here, +married the Duke of Suffolk. Her chamber still +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_185" id="Page_185" title="185"></a></span>exists, and we saw it in high preservation. This +marriage, you will remember, laid the foundation for +the claim of Lady Jane Grey to the crown. Here, +too, for a season, the excellent abbess and the nuns +of Port Royal found a refuge. Some forty years +ago, it came into the hands of M. Sommerard, a +man devoted to antiquarian pursuits, and here he +expended a large property in forming a vast collection +of all sorts of relics he could gather belonging +to the medieval ages. A few years ago, he died, +and then the government wisely purchased the hotel +and its unrivalled museum for half a million of +francs; and additions are constantly made to it of +every curiosity that can illustrate the habits and +manners of the early history of France and Europe. +The building is very striking in its first aspect. It +has several Gothic turrets, and very rich windows, +and the court yards and garden are all in keeping. +What good times those old abbots, and monks must +have had in their visits to Paris, in such a palace as +this was! You pass from room, to room, all filled +with the antique, till you get leg-weary. The floors +are exquisitely beautiful—some in fine old black +oak, let in, in patterns; others are bricks and tiles, +in mosaic. Then the old mantel-pieces are wonderfully +fine. We saw plenty of tapestry, old as the +hills; and one set of hangings was the history of +David and Bathsheba. Some of the bedsteads are +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_186" id="Page_186" title="186"></a></span>very curious. One belonged to Francis I. Perhaps +the largest and most valuable collection of carved +Wood furniture in the world is here to be seen. +Such cabinets, chairs, tables, chests, I never imagined. +The work is of the most delicate and +complicated character. Then you find a wonderful +collection of glass and earthen ware—cups and +goblets belonging to men of note of every age in +French history. One room is full of ancient armor, +another of gems, enamels, &c., another of pictures +of the most curious kind; and as to mirrors and +looking-glasses, they are in great plenty; and china +enough to make some ladies in America whom I +know break the commandment.</p> + +<p class="text">You can fancy, Charley, what sort of a place +this must be, when I tell you that the catalogue of +this collection is a volume of two hundred and +forty octavo pages, and embraces eighteen hundred +and ninety-five particulars. I have the catalogue, +and can assure you that it includes some +queer antiquities, of which we cannot speak particularly +at present.</p> + +<p class="text">A word or two about the ruins of Julian's Palace +of the Baths. Here is still a vast hall, which was +doubtless the place for cold baths. The dimensions +are sixty feet by thirty-five. In the cellars are the +evident remains of the warm baths. The walls are +of immense thickness, and will probably last as long +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_187" id="Page_187" title="187"></a></span>as the earth on which they rest. This hall is the +place of deposit for any Roman sculpture that may +be found in the excavations of the city.</p> + +<p class="text">I am sure that, next to the Crystal Palace, this +has been our greatest treat. We enjoyed this +morning the more, because we had the company of +Mr. George Sumner, who has lived in Paris so long +that he is perfectly familiar with every object of interest. +I never met with any one who appeared to +have so much local knowledge as he possesses. He +knows the history of every thing, and he seems at +home on all names, dates, and facts of other ages. +Whenever we read up, after a walk with him, we +find that he knows all that is known; and in truth +he talks like a book, but better than most books. +The attention of this gentleman has been very great +to us boys, and he seems never tired when doing us +kindness. But if Mr. S. knows places well, he is +no less intimate with men; and probably no American +has ever enjoyed his opportunities to cultivate +the acquaintance of the best and greatest men in +Paris.</p> + +<p class="text">We have visited the Church of St. Sulpice, which +was begun in 1655, and only completed late in +the last century. The portico is very grand, and +is a double row of Doric pillars, forty feet high. It +has two towers, which are over two hundred feet +high, and on which are telegraphs. The church +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_188" id="Page_188" title="188"></a></span>forms a cross, and is four hundred and thirty-two +feet in length, one hundred and seventy-four in +width, and ninety-nine in height. The organ is +finely carved, and is more elaborate in its work than +any I have seen yet. The statuary, both in bronze +and marble, here, is beautiful, and the candelabra are +greatly admired. As to pictures, I can only say they +are many and fine. The marble monument and +statue to Languet de Gergy, the former <i>curé</i> of this +parish, and who mainly contributed to its erection or +completion, is much admired, and on this tomb is the +most elegant inscription of modern times. But I +cannot insert it here. Directly in front of the +church, in an open square, is a very fine fountain, +which partakes of the ecclesiastical in its style—having +in four niches the statues of Bossuet, Massillon, +Fléchier, and Fénélon.</p> + +<p class="text">In our walk we were all struck with an immense +wooden pile, which we found was the Bibliothèque +St. Geneviéve. The front is very chaste, and has +very many arched windows. The library is more +than three hundred feet in length, and is covered +on the exterior with the names of all the great +authors of every age and nation. We saw the +names of many of our countrymen—Washington, +Franklin, Rumford, Clinton, Cooper, Prescott, Irving, +&c. We were unable to enter, as repairs were in +progress, but were told that the library has two +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_189" id="Page_189" title="189"></a></span>hundred thousand volumes, and several thousand +MSS.</p> + +<p class="text">We have all been much gratified with the Church +of St. Etienne du Mont. It boasts an antiquity that +dates back to 1131, and its tower and turret are +known to be as early as 1222. The exterior is +remarkable for a strange mixture of architecture, +and some of the details are very beautiful. The +interior cannot fail to interest a thoughtful person, I +think. The pictures are very fine indeed, and some +of the marbles are of the highest excellence. We +went into the little Chapel of St. Genevieve, the +patron saint of Paris, where is the tomb of the saint. +The tomb was literally stuck over with small tallow +candles, and looked like a piece of meat larded. +The room was filled with worshippers, all on their +knees; and two women had as much anguish in their +faces as I ever saw. All the people kneeling at this +tomb seemed far more intent and in earnest than +the hundreds at grand mass in the church proper. +Just as we stepped outside this chapel, we found on +the wall the monuments of Racine and Pascal, who +are both buried in this church. The church was full +of people, and in one little chapel the priest was +baptizing an infant. We went in and looked on. +It was the first time I had ever witnessed this monstrous +mummery in the Catholic church; and I called +in the Dr. and Mr. S., who were looking at some +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_190" id="Page_190" title="190"></a></span>statuary. The priest was hardly decent at his work. +He did it all in a hurry,—put oil and something else +on the child, fore and aft,—and how men and women +could stand and let the stupidity take place on their +children, I cannot understand. After seeing Pascal's +grave, and thinking of his immortal works, it was +poor preparation for the mountebank exhibition, and +awkward work of making Christians, that we witnessed. +You know, Charley, that I am not a lover +of Romanism, but I never felt so thankful as on that +day for being a Protestant.</p> + +<p class="text">The pictures of this church are very well +worthy of careful notice—especially two, said to +have been given by the city to the saint, who caused +a famine to stay its ravages, and restored a sick +king by intercession.</p> + +<p class="text">Now, pray, do not think me church mad if I +carry you once more to another old one. I am +sure, if you had seen it, that it would cause you to +talk about it often. Well, it is the Church St. +Germain des Pres. This is regarded as the oldest +in Paris, and was originally an abbey. There was +a church here as early as 560. This was probably +built about the middle of the ninth century, and its +completion was in the twelfth; for it was consecrated +by Pope Alexander III. In this church was +the tomb of Childebert, the founder of the first +edifice. The abbey had a refectory, cloisters, &c., +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_191" id="Page_191" title="191"></a></span>was surrounded by a moat, and had been fortified. +A large open field, close by, was the resort of duellists, +and many a bloody affray has there occurred. +Casimir, King of Poland, was an abbot of this +church. The revolution was sadly injurious to this +fine sanctuary, and it was for a time converted into +a saltpetre manufactory. Charles X. repaired it, +and after him Louis Philippe carefully superintended +its restoration. The inside of the church is a cross, +with a circular choir; and the arches are semi-circular, +and indicate great antiquity. The restoration +of the nave and choir has been most carefully +done, at immense expense. The roof of the choir +is painted deep blue, with stars. The capitals of +the columns are richly gilt, and the shafts are painted +in red stripes—exact copies of the old devices. +Nothing can be finer than the marble altar and the +carved stalls of the choir. Nor does the church +lack for historical names among its dead. Here are +the tombs of Earl Douglass, Descartes, Mabillon, +Montfaucon, and Casimir of Poland, who died, abbot, +in 1672. Every thing here in ecclesiastical architecture +is so different from all that we have in our +country, that I examine these noble relics with great +pleasure, and do not know but I shall soon become +as antiquarian in my taste as-you know who.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">james.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_192" id="Page_192" title="192"></a></span></p> +<h2><a name="Letter_28" id="Letter_28"></a>Letter 28.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Paris.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">On a fine morning we rode over to the Jardin des +Plantes, accompanied by Mr. R——, whose long +residence has made him very familiar with this +lovely spot. I think we all looked forward to this +excursion with great anticipation, because we knew +that this was the most famous garden in Europe; and +then, in connection with it, are the richest cabinets +in the world of natural history, mineralogy, geology, +and a noble collection of living animals from +all countries. Ever since 1635, the world has +been placed under contribution to enrich this spot. +The greatest botanists and naturalists of Europe +have labored here. Buffon himself was the great +man of the place in his day. Even revolutionary +fury spared this retreat and treasury of Nature. +Bonaparte made it his pet, and when the troops of +Europe were at the walls of Paris, they agreed to +respect and preserve the spot so dear to science. +This establishment is on the banks of the river, and +there are many portals by which entrance may be +obtained. The gardens are very large, but I cannot +speak of their exact size. They are in the neatest +order. Every shrub and flower, plant and tree, +is labelled, so that reference is easy. I was delighted +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_193" id="Page_193" title="193"></a></span>to see, on a lofty eminence, the cedar of Lebanon. +It is a glorious tree, and was planted here in 1734, +and is now about twelve feet round at its base. +We also saw some palm-trees which were given by +Louis XIV. They were, I should think, nearly +thirty feet high.</p> + +<p class="text">The Menagerie has long been famous, and is most +admirably laid out in walks and enclosures, so that +the animals have plenty of room for exercise and +pasture. Since the days of Noah's ark, I suppose +there never was such a collection of animals, +clean and unclean. The bears, elephants, +lions, and tigers are all what are called first-rate +specimens.</p> + +<p class="text">We were pointed out the house where the celebrated +Cuvier lived, and which was his favorite residence. +Here was his life's labor, the Zoölogical +Cabinet, which he arranged according to his system. +Only fancy a house about four hundred feet long, +having three stories, and all filled up with nearly +two hundred thousand specimens; and the preparations +are almost as fine as the animal was in life.</p> + +<p class="text">The Museum of Comparative Anatomy, also, was +the labor of Cuvier. The collections of mineralogy +and geology are very extensive; but I did not have +much time to examine them, nor are they as much +in my line as some other things. The specimens of +precious stones were curious, and I was pleased to +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_194" id="Page_194" title="194"></a></span>see amber containing perfect insects, perhaps antediluvian +insects. And so we employed three hours +upon what I should have liked to pass three whole +days. But it would take years of diligent study +to understand what is here to be seen.</p> + +<p class="text">If a person walks about Paris and inquires much +as to the history of the city and its improvements, +as we Americans say, he will soon find that Paris +has been chiefly indebted for her grandeur to Henry +IV., Louis XIV., Napoleon, and Louis Philippe. +Bridges, places, arches, and fountains show how +much Paris owes to these rulers. Of fountains there +are, I should think, nearly a hundred in the city, and +some are exceedingly fine. The Seine is not much +of an affair. With us, it would be only a muddy +brook. Some of the bridges that span it are fine. +I have seen nothing in Paris more picturesque than +the prospect from the Pont Neuf. It is my favorite +stand point. Off to the right are the towers of +Notre Dame, and the long line of old houses which +tell of centuries upon centuries since they were +built; and on the left of the river are the Hotel de +Ville, St. Germain L'Auxerrois; and some of the +most venerable streets. From the bell tower of St. +Germain the signal was rung for the infamous massacre +of the Protestants, on St. Bartholomew's eve, +23d of August, 1572. In the Rue de l'Arbre sec, at +No. 14, was Admiral Coligny murdered on that +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_195" id="Page_195" title="195"></a></span>occasion. It was formerly known as the Hotel +Ponthieu, but is to be demolished in a few weeks, to +make way for improvements. We felt a desire to +see the spot where the Bastile formerly stood, and +which was destroyed by the mob in July, 1789, and +the key of which is now at Mount Vernon, having +been sent as a present to Washington. This was +the theatre of the greatest resistance made by the +insurgents in June, 1848; and here, too, it was that +the Archbishop of Paris met with his death. On +the site of the Bastile, Louis Philippe laid the foundation +of a column which commemorates the revolution +of 1830. This column is of bronze, and is +one hundred and sixty-three feet high, in addition to +the pedestal of white marble, supported by immense +granite blocks. The diameter of the column is, I +believe, twelve feet, and it cost about twelve hundred +thousand francs. There is no masonry in the interior. +The staircase is suspended, and the whole +concern vibrates with the passing breeze. I did not +ascend, you may be sure. The Corinthian capital, +over which is a gallery with rails, is very beautiful, +and is the largest casting in bronze that is known—or, +rather, was, for I <i>think</i> that the Amazon at the +London Exhibition will take the palm for size. On +the globe which surmounts the pillar stands a colossal +gilt figure, which represents Liberty. On the +bands which encircle the pillar are the names of +<!-- <span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_196" id="Page_196" title="196"></a></span> --> +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_197" id="Page_197" title="197"></a></span> +those who were killed in the three days of July, +amounting to fire hundred and four. All around +and beneath are interred the remains of these patriots.</p> + +<p><br /></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 174px;"> +<a name="Colonne_de_Juillet" id="Colonne_de_Juillet"></a> +<a href="images/pg199.png"><img src="images/pg199_th.png" width="174" height="400" alt="Colonne de Juillet." title="Colonne de Juillet." /> +</a><span class="caption">Colonne de Juillet.</span> +</div> +<p><br /></p> + +<p class="text">We are going to take the Cemetery at Père la +Chaise for to-morrow's excursion; and the rest of +the day I must devote to letters home, as the packet +day is close at hand.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">weld.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_29" id="Letter_29"></a>Letter 29.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Paris.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">This morning, as we were taking a very comfortable +breakfast at the coffee-room of our hotel, and +as I was reading Galignani's daily paper, I found a +person at the next table addressing me, in nasal +twang, "Stranger, is this fellow Galignani a reliable +chap?" I assured him that he passed for an +authority. Laying down his paper on the table, he +pathetically described the tramp which the programme +for the sight-seeing of yesterday's paper +had given him, and declared his inability to keep up +with the instructions for that day. Finding that he +was a character, I carried on the conversation; and +he talked most edifyingly to all in the room, as he +spoke loud enough to be heard at the very end. I +inquired if he had been to London. His reply was, +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_198" id="Page_198" title="198"></a></span>"I reckon I have; why, I come on purpose to see +the <i>Crystial</i> Palace." "Well, sir," I said, "and +how did you like it?" "O, that exhibition is some!" +"And pray, sir, what did you think of the Greek +Slave?" "There, now, stranger, I takes it that +where she were raised <i>cotton was dreadful scarce."</i> +This, was too much and too good; and I think it is by +far the best thing I have heard about the exhibition. +How the boys managed to keep quiet, I know not; +but they did as well as could be expected. The +room was thoroughly awake, and I resigned our +countryman to other hands.</p> + +<p class="text">After breakfast, we rode to the Cemetery of Père +la Chaise. This spot has for centuries been celebrated +for its beauty; and, for a period of more +than one hundred years, the Jesuits had a country +residence here. They had it early in the sixteenth +century, or, perhaps, at the close of the fifteenth. +Louis XIV. made his confessor, Père la Chaise, the +superior of the society; and in 1705 it was the +head-quarters of Jesuitism in France.</p> + +<p class="text">The present cemetery was consecrated in 1804; +and the entire grounds are walled in, and they +are very nearly two hundred acres. You know +how much I admire Greenwood and Mount Auburn. +Well, I still prefer them to this Golgotha. The +walks are some of them fine, but the tombs are too +thick. There is no regularity. It looks as though +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_199" id="Page_199" title="199"></a></span>there had been a rain storm of tombs and monuments, +and they lie as they fell. This is the very +metropolis of death. Some of the monuments are +elegant indeed, but often their beauties are hidden. +The most attractive spot to us was the resting-place +of "the bravest of the brave." Ney yet has no +monument. The tombs of Casimir Perrier, the +Countess Demidoff, Abelard and Héloise, General +Macdonald, Lavalette, Gobert, Foy, Molière, Laplace, +and Junot are some that pleased us most, and are +exquisite specimens of art. Many of these tombs +have small rooms, with altars and glass doors. Opposite +the altar is a chair, and we saw several +mourners in devout attitude at the shrine of affection. +I have heard from a Parisian of great intelligence, +and who has been connected with the city +government, that very nearly, if not quite, thirty +millions of dollars have been spent upon this cemetery. +Of course, the expense of sculpture here has +been enormous, as the best talent of Europe has +contributed to adorn the spot, and perpetuate the +memory of the departed.</p> + +<p class="text">On leaving this charnel-house of mortality, we +drove to the Abattoir de Popincourt, which is the +largest in the city, and occupies six hundred and +forty-five feet by fire hundred and seventy. On entering, +we found four slaughter-houses, each standing +alone. Here, too, are sheds for four thousand +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_200" id="Page_200" title="200"></a></span>sheep, and stables for four hundred oxen. There +are also four melting-houses. We also noticed a +large building called the <i>Triperie</i>, for preparing tripe +and the feet of animals. The week we were there +the statistics of slaughter were as follows: Eight +hundred and seventy-two oxen, three hundred and +fifty-six cows, seven hundred calves, and two thousand +eight hundred and seventy-five sheep. Nothing +of the sort can be kept cleaner than this establishment. +The water ran down every channel, and +very little blood could be seen, or effluvia noticed. +When will New York have its <i>abattoirs</i>? No city +in the world needs such an auxiliary to health and +comfort more than she does. Perhaps the good +people will call for one after a few more visitations +of cholera. There are four other similar establishments +in Paris.</p> + +<p class="text">We had a nice ride home round the boulevards, +and, stopping at the consul's office, found a famous +budget of letters and papers, and with great pleasure +we addressed ourselves to their contents. I am +amused to see how various are the demands made +upon the time and services of a consul. He needs +to have the patience of Job; and if he answers satisfactorily +and authoritatively the questions which I +have heard propounded, he ought to have in his +library the acts of every state legislature in the +Union. Marriage, death, removal of deceased rela<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_201" id="Page_201" title="201"></a></span>tives +from their places of sepulture, rates of interest, +value of stocks, condition of railroads, and statistics +of all sorts have been topics which I have heard laid +before him for advice and opinion. Very few men, +however, possess more general knowledge of the +United States than our consul—Mr. Goodrich—does; +and his kindness will lead him to do all he +can to satisfy the querist.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours, as ever,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">j.o.c.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_30" id="Letter_30"></a>Letter 30.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Paris.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">Yesterday we went to the Cirque, in the Champs +Elysées. It is a very large building, with sixteen +sides, and behind is another spacious one for the +horses. The intention of the builder was to represent +a Moorish hall; and the pillars of iron are, with +the panellings of the walls, gilt and frescoed. The +roof is very elegant, and the largest chandelier in +Paris is in the centre, blazing with I cannot tell you +how many gas lights. The circus will accommodate +about six or seven thousand people, and when we +were there it was very nearly full. We paid two +francs each, and had the best seats. The performances +were very good, and some quite beyond any +thing I had before seen. There was one feat that was +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_202" id="Page_202" title="202"></a></span>really great. They placed planks upon supporters, +from the centre of the circus up to the edge of +the gallery, making an angle of about fifty feet. +Well, Charley, a fellow walked in with a ball, about +three quarters of a yard in diameter, and on this +ball he trotted about on the ground for perhaps two +minutes; then he marches it to the foot of this +plank, still standing on it, and up he goes,—yes, he +totes and coaxes the ball under his feet, up, up,—till +at last he stands on it on the gallery; and then, +did not the place ring again with applause? But +then it is not over; for down he comes the selfsame +way—and that is the tug of war; but he did it. +This he did <i>backwards</i>, also, each way. I never saw +any thing before that would equal this, and I want +to see him do it again before we leave Paris. The +horsemanship was very good. But there was one +fellow who threw himself into the very oddest attitudes +you can fancy. He looked, as he moved +about on the earth, like any thing but a human. We +were all much amused with the audience. Entire +families were there. You could see parties coming +in where there was no mistake about grandfather +and grandmother, father, mother, and all the children. +It seems that all classes here have a taste for +amusement, and pursue it with much earnestness. +The audience behaved very well—every thing was +quiet. I noticed a great many well-dressed women +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_203" id="Page_203" title="203"></a></span>who carried round crickets to the ladies, for their +feet, and for this they got a few sous.</p> + +<p class="text">As we returned, we found, in the grounds through +which we walked, scores of establishments for juvenile +amusement—stalls where there are exhibitions +of moving figures, and at which you may shoot with +bow and arrow by paying a small price. Not far +from the Cirque we met with an out-door concert, in +a very tasty garden—the performers all occupying +a fine orchestra. The audience were seated at tables +in the garden, taking ice cream, lemonade, coffee, +&c. Now and then one of the singers would +pass round and take up a collection.</p> + +<p class="text">This day we went to the Hippodrome, which is a +very large enclosure, nearly opposite the Triumphal +Arch. This is no less than three hundred and +eighty feet in diameter, and will seat all of ten thousand +persons, who are under shelter, but the course-ground +is open to the heavens. This place is open +from three to five during the warm weather, and is +under the same management as the Cirque. Our +great object in coming was to see the ball feat again, +and also the skirmishes of some twenty Arabs, who +are here exhibiting their tactics. I never saw a +more reckless, savage-looking set of fellows than +they were. Only one looked like a venerable Arab—he +did look patriarchal. They had several sham +attacks, and rode about shooting helter skelter, look<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_204" id="Page_204" title="204"></a></span>ing +as if they would enjoy the real thing much better. +These fellows are said to be some of the Algerine +captives brought over by the French. Our +friend Mr. Hodgson, who lived so long in Turkey, +and speaks Arabic, talked with them, much to their +surprise.</p> + +<p class="text">We have determined to leave Paris this week, and +commence our journey through Belgium, Holland, +go up the Rhine, and take Switzerland on our return +to Paris—and perhaps we may leave to-morrow. +I ought not to omit saying that we have had a very +pleasant Sunday in our own parlor here. We did +not feel much like going to the French church that +morning; and the doctor invited the Rev. Dr. Murray, +Dr. Chetwood, Rev. Mr. Darling, Judge Darling, +Rev. Mr. Hovey, Mr. King, and some other +friends to join us, and have a religious meeting. It +was a very interesting one, too. Dr. Murray spoke +about the state of France, the need the French had +of our Sunday, and how they could not be a free +and happy people, and get along without soldiers, +till they had it. All the ministers took part; and I +shall not very soon forget that day; and then I +think we all thought a good deal about home, as +each minister talked and prayed for our families.</p> + +<p class="text">Our next letters will, I suppose, be from Brussels.</p> + + +<p class="center">Yours, &c.,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">george.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_205" id="Page_205" title="205"></a></span></p> +<h2><a name="Letter_31" id="Letter_31"></a>Letter 31.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Brussels.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">The fine weather, and the advantage of having +pleasant company, has induced us to leave Paris and +pursue our journey, leaving many things to see in +the great metropolis when we return. I forgot to +tell you that in Paris I had the pleasure to meet an +English clergyman, a relative of mine, who was +there passing the honey-moon. This gentleman and +his lady joined our party; and we are now to go +together as far as Antwerp, certainly. We took the +rail from Paris direct to Brussels,—a distance of two +hundred and thirty miles,—and passed through +Amiens, Arras, Douai, Valenciennes, Quievrain, St. +Jemappes,—here King Louis Philippe, with General +Dumourier, in 1792, gained a battle over an +Austrian army, and so gained Belgium to France, +little thinking that his son-in-law would be its king,—Mons, +Bruin le Compte, Halle, and so to Brussels. +At Quievrain we found the custom-house of +Belgium, and the little river, called Aunelle, is the +boundary of the republic. Mons is a fine-looking +place, fortified strongly. The region is one entire +coal field, and there are many pits in operation. +Ten miles from Mons Marlborough fought the bat<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_206" id="Page_206" title="206"></a></span>tle +of Malplaquet, in 1709. When we passed, the +town was in great commotion with the trial of Count +Bocarmé and his wife for the murder of her brother. +She was by some means acquitted, but he was convicted +and executed by the guillotine.</p> + +<p class="text">As soon as we entered Belgium, we were struck +with the improvement of the lands. The small +towns look remarkably thrifty, and every place +seems to speak of manufactures and industry.</p> + +<p class="text">At Brussels, we put up at the Hotel Bellevue, in +the Place Royale. The situation is good. In a +large square, and in front of our hotel, is the magnificent +statue, in bronze, of Godfrey, Duke of +Boulogne, the cast of which we so admired as the +Crusader, in the exhibition. In this square Leopold +was inaugurated King of Belgium.</p> + +<p class="text">Every traveller enters Brussels with expectation +of pleasure. He has heard that it is Paris in miniature; +and then Byron has thrown around it his +witchery of song. I can see but a dull and dim resemblance +to Paris. Brussels, with its suburbs, +which are quite large, has only a population of one +hundred and thirty thousand. The town is very +clean, looks cosy, and has some very beautiful edifices. +But you come here full of fancy about "Belgium's +capital," "her beauty and her chivalry," and +the "windowed niche of that high hall," and you +see at first only a plain, good, comfortable town. +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_207" id="Page_207" title="207"></a></span>However, there is quite enough of romance, after +all, in this same place; and when you traverse it +thoroughly, you find enough to call out deep interest; +and before you leave it you are much gratified, +and, in all probability, feel desirous to see it again. +I like to be in places that have a history; and this +Brussels has. Let me tell you about this place. It +stands on the brow of a high bill, and the upper +and lower towns are different affairs entirely. The +summit is covered with palaces, public buildings, +boulevards, parks, &c., and the lower part is in the +valley of the River Senne. Brussels was a city in +709. In 976, the Emperor Otho held his court +there; in 1044, it was fortified and had seven gates; +in 1405, a fire destroyed fourteen hundred houses; +and in 1549, it suffered from two earthquakes. But +still it grew and flourished under the dukes of Burgundy, +and became famous for tapestry, lace, and +fire-arms. In the days of Charles V., the city of +Brussels was at its zenith. Philip II., his son, and +his infamous general, the Duke of Alva, ravaged +this city and vicinage. The people were fanatical, +and the rulers cruel. In 1695, the city was besieged, +and four thousand houses destroyed by the +bombardment. In 1794, Belgium was annexed to +France. After the battle of Waterloo, the Prince +of Orange was proclaimed sovereign of Belgium. +In 1830, the revolution displaced the Orange dynasty, +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_208" id="Page_208" title="208"></a></span>and Belgium broke off from Holland; and in +1831, the people chose Leopold for their king. The +first thing I wanted to see was the Hotel de Villa, +which, many years ago, pleased me exceedingly; +and I think all our party have been delighted with +it. This is the noblest civil building in Belgium; it +stands in a fine square, and is a glorious specimen +of the Lombardy Gothic school. The spire is +of open fretwork, and the sun shines through it. +It has long been esteemed as one of the most precious +works of architecture in Europe. The extreme +height is three hundred and sixty-four feet, +and it was erected in 1444. On the spire is a gilt +statue of St. Michael, seventeen feet high, which +turns with the wind. In front of this town hall +Counts Egmont and Horn were executed, under the +eye of Alva; but they were nobly avenged by William +of Orange. At the head of a very steep and +narrow street stands a most imposing structure. It +is the Cathedral Church of St. Gudule. The foundation +was laid in 1010. The front view is very +much like that of Notre Dame, at Paris. This +church is occasionally called St. Michael's in old +writers, as it had a double consecration to the archangel +and Gudule. The interior of this cathedral is +very impressive, although the architecture is simple. +The pillars supporting the roof are massive, and +must receive the admiration of all spectators. There +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_209" id="Page_209" title="209"></a></span>are brackets attached to them, on which stand finely-executed +figures of the Savior, the Virgin Mary, and +the Apostles, executed by the following renowned +sculptors: Vandelyn, Quellyn, Tobias, and Duquesnoy. +The pulpit is regarded as the finest in Europe, +and is the most elaborate composition of sculpture +in wood that is extant. It is the work of the +great Verbruggen, and was originally executed for a +Jesuit society at Louvain, in 1699. The art is exquisite, +and far superior to the taste which is exhibited. +The pulpit represents the expulsion of Adam +and Eve from paradise by the angel. Death is seen +in pursuit of the guilty fugitives; and on the extreme +summit is the Virgin Mary, bruising the serpent's +head with a cross. On the steps and balusters are +various beasts and birds; the owl, ape, and peacock +are conspicuous. We found preparations for a great +church holiday, to be observed the next day; and +the Virgin Mary was gayly decked out in embroidery, +lace, and jewelry.</p> + +<p class="text">A monument to Count Merode, in a chapel, is a +most exquisite production, and was executed by +Geefs. Here Charles V., in 1616, held a chapter of +the Golden Fleece. The restoration of this beautiful +church has been carefully attended to lately, and +the new windows of painted glass are very fine; +but some of the old windows, by Weyde, are grand +indeed.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_210" id="Page_210" title="210"></a></span>In this church the famous sacramental wafers are +placed away as relics of inestimable value. Perhaps +you recollect the story of the Jews who purloined +them, and profanely stuck the consecrated bread +with knives; when, lo, a miracle! blood came from +the incision, and the unbelievers were smitten down. +Of course, they were taken, and tormented, and +burnt. This was at the close of the fourteenth +century. The great celebration of this Popish imposition +of a miracle is kept up in July every year.</p> + +<p class="text">All one side of this noble building is a set of +mean, low, one and two-story shanties, which deface +the appearance of the venerable pile.</p> + +<p class="text">While in the church, we saw vast numbers of boys +and girls, who had come to make their confession +and prepare for their first communion, to take place +next day. We often saw in the streets of Paris +and Brussels girls dressed in white, with wreaths of +flowers, and boys, with dresses that looked as if they +were bound to a wedding; these were young people +going to communion. The poor children in this +church looked as funny on the occasion, sitting and +chatting, waiting for their turn to confess, as the +priest looked tired and indifferent.</p> + +<p class="text">We spent much of our leisure time walking in +the noble park and gardens. O, when shall we +have in America such care taken of our few green +spots, in our great cities, as is here displayed? No +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_211" id="Page_211" title="211"></a></span>lady can be more chary of the order of her drawing-room +than are the authorities at Brussels of these +beautiful promenades. Then, too, here are avenues +of trees that make you in love with the city as you +enter it. I do wish all our towns would raise committees +of public-spirited men, who should undertake, +by voluntary contributions, or town action, to +plant the roadsides that form the entrances to these +places. I was delighted, some months ago, to hear +that a few gentlemen at Haverhill, in Massachusetts, +had banded together for this purpose. Charley, if +you live to take an active share in the business of +life, try and do something for the place you live in +that shall appear after you have gone; make the +spot of your residence better, because you have once +lived in it. We are too selfish; we do not fulfil our +duty to those who are to come after us; we do not, +even in the matters of this present state, live up to +the great law of our being—"No man liveth to +himself."</p> + +<p class="text">Leopold's Palace is exceedingly plain and unpretending +for a royal residence. It was originally +composed of two wings, through which a street ran +its course; but they are now united by a central +building, with a handsome portico, having for its +support six Corinthian pillars. The edifice is about +three hundred and ninety feet in length; and, while +the front is on the Park, the rear opens on an exten<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_212" id="Page_212" title="212"></a></span>sive +garden. At the opposite side of the Park is +the Chamber of Representatives. In the Park, and +near to the Palace, is the prettiest glen and bit of +miniature wood I know of.</p> + +<p class="text">We found our accomplished representative, the +Hon. Mr. Bayard, kind and attentive. He lives in +a charming part of the city; and his position must +be a pleasant one, having good society in the place, +and near to Paris.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">j.o.c.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_32" id="Letter_32"></a>Letter 32.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Brussels.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">I like this city very much—it is so clean. The +buildings in the upper part of the town are new, and +in pleasant contrast to the lower portion, which +looks so very old. I think, from walking about a +great deal, that there must be many English people +here; for they carry their country in their dress +and manner. We spent a morning at the various +shops, and principally at the lace and print stores. +We purchased some very beautiful engravings, lithographs, +and illustrated works, which will remind us +of our pleasant days in Brussels, and which I hope +may amuse our friends. The lacework executed +here is uncommonly rich, and, you know, is very +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_213" id="Page_213" title="213"></a></span>famous; but, I am sorry to say, also very expensive. +A person may soon get rid of large amounts of +money here. We made some purchases for the +ladies at home; but no doubt, if they had been with +us, the bills would have been heavier than they +were.</p> + +<p class="text">The way we manage for getting money while we +are travelling is by a circular letter from Baring & +Brothers. On this we are introduced to houses in +the great cities through which our route lies, and +the letter states our credit at London; then from +these houses we obtain what we need, and have +each house indorse the amount; so that, as we go +from place to place, our financial position in London +still appears. In Brussels we found the banker, or, +at least, his agent,—for whether the banker or his +clerk we did not know,—a perfect specimen of +vulgarity and rudeness. He was the most uncivil +fellow that we have yet seen in Europe. His most +pleasant words were grunts, and his motions and +attitudes were almost threats. He looked like a +Jew, but he acted like a wild Arab; and his manœuvres +would have been a godsend to the comic Dr. +Valentine, if he had witnessed their display. His +gray hairs did not command respect; and what +made his rudeness so hard to bear, was the fact that +nothing occurred to call it out. We probably met +him at an unhappy moment.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_214" id="Page_214" title="214"></a></span>The Museum is in the old palace of the Spanish +governors of the Low Countries, and long before +their day it was the ducal residence of the Brabants. +The building was begun in 1346, and completed +in 1502.</p> + +<p class="text">The pictures of Europe are one of my great objects +of interest, and here we begin to find them. +We have left the London and Paris collections for +examination as we return. From the catalogue, we +found there were about six hundred pictures here, +and some statuary. The chief attraction of this +gallery is found in the few early Flemish paintings +which it boasts. I think a Gerard Dow will long be +remembered by me. It is an interior, and the effect +of the light in the room is admirable. Many of the +paintings are styled Gothic; that means they were +painted previous to the time of Van Eyck. An interior +of the Antwerp Cathedral, by Neefs, is very +fine; and I was much pleased with some large pictures +by Philippe Champagne, some' of whose portraits +I have seen in New York. Here are four +pictures by Paul Veronese. No. 285 is the Marriage +of Cana. I think I never saw a picture in which I +was so impressed with the magnificence of the coloring. +The table is richly spread, and the light appears +on it, coming down the columns; the rich +colors of the fruits contrasting strongly with the +white table and gay dress of one of the figures. +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_215" id="Page_215" title="215"></a></span>The management of light, by introducing various +colors in the dresses, is wonderful, and the blue sky +produces the happiest effect. I never before understood +how much a picture depended on the arrangement +of color. The drapery of this composition +struck me greatly; and although I know little of +great paintings, yet I do know what I like, and this +picture, as a whole, seems to me wonderfully fine.</p> + +<p class="text">In 1695, when this town was bombarded by the +French, fourteen churches were destroyed, some of +which contained the best pictures of Rubens, Vandyke, +and other great painters of that century. I +observed here a good portrait of Henrietta, queen +of Charles I., who seems to have been a favorite +with painters. I have seen a score of her faces by +Vandyke at Windsor, Paris, and elsewhere. This +was by Mignard. All make her very beautiful.</p> + +<p class="text">The Adoration of the Magi, by Van Eyck, the +inventor of oil painting, is curious; and a Descent +from the Cross, by Hemling, who flourished about +1450, interested me. Amongst the pictures by unknown +masters I saw some good ones. I thought +the portraits in this class very spirited. One of +Bloody Mary was quite a picture.</p> + +<p class="text">In this building, too, the doctor found a treat in +the great Burgundy Library, where are nearly twenty +thousand MSS., some of which are the most richly-illuminated +vellums that are known. Some of the +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_216" id="Page_216" title="216"></a></span>miniatures of the early fathers and saints are of +exquisite beauty. This precious collection has +twice, I learn, been stolen by the French, as were +also the best pictures. The library consists of about +two hundred thousand volumes. I saw some glorious +specimens of Russian malachite.</p> + +<p class="text">You would, I am sure, Charley, hardly forgive +me if I had had so little of your love of the curious +as to go away from Brussels without a look at the +world-renowned fountain—the <i>Manekin.</i> One day, +when upon a tramp, we inquired it out. The +dirty dog is a little bronze figure, made by the famous +Duquesnoy in 1648. It stands at the corner +of the Rue du Chêne and the Rue de l'Etuve. He +still maintains his ground; and there seems no danger +of his losing his occupation.</p> + +<p class="text">The Botanical Garden lies on the side of the hill +leading from the city towards Antwerp, and is apparently +kept in fine order. It is about six hundred +and fifty yards long, and I should think nearly two +hundred wide.</p> + +<p class="text">To-morrow we are to spend at Waterloo; and +George is well nigh distracted. We have heard +very little from him, since we reached Brussels, but +about Napoleon, Wellington, Ney, and Grouchy. +The last-named marshal finds no favor at his hands, +as he regards him as a traitor to the emperor at the +critical moment. One thing is certain; he knows +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_217" id="Page_217" title="217"></a></span>more about the battle than most persons, and will +feel quite at home when he once makes out his +stand-point. We all anticipate his transports with +interest. We are to start early; so good-night.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">weld.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_33" id="Letter_33"></a>Letter 33.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Brussels.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">I am thoroughly tired out with a day at Waterloo; +and, though I should be glad to retire at an early +hour, yet, as to-morrow's mail takes all letters for +the next steamer, we are all hard at the duty and +pleasure of correspondence with our friends. I +shall give you but a hurried account of our visit to +the great battle field of Europe. We were all up +early in the morning, and, after an excellent breakfast, +we engaged a carriage and pair of horses for +the day. The distance is about twelve miles. After +riding about two miles, we found the road touched +the Forest of Soignies, so well known in consequence +of Byron's description of the march of the +army from Brussels to Waterloo. On the way we +met several guides, who commended their services +to our notice, backed up by testimonials of former +travellers. We selected Pirson, and he took his +place beside the driver, and we arrived in two hour +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_218" id="Page_218" title="218"></a></span>at the village. Passing by what is called a museum, +we addressed ourselves at once to a survey of the +field. There are no signs of the past, excepting in +monuments and houses that are famous for their +being occupied by the hostile parties during the battle. +We turned our attention first to the Château +of Hougomont, because, from our knowledge of +the transactions of the great day, we regarded it as +the grand point of attraction, and the central one +for our observations. This farm is an old-looking +affair, with out-buildings—a small chapel, twelve or +fifteen feet long, and the garden and orchard, having +a strong stone wall around them. This was the +strong point of the British army; and if Napoleon +could have gained it, he would have turned the flank +of the enemy. To this he directed all his power, +and the marks of the conflict are yet very apparent. +All day the attack was made, upon the farm by +thousands, under the command of Jerome Bonaparte. +The wall was pierced with loopholes, and +through these the English Coldstream Guards kept +up a most destructive fire upon the French troops. +The exterior of the wall still shows what a terrific +onset was made. We went into the house, obtained +some refreshment, bought some relics, and, among +other things, a neat brass crucifix, which hung +against the wall. We then, went to look at the +farms La Belle Alliance and La Haye Sainte—the +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_219" id="Page_219" title="219"></a></span>famous mound where the dead were interred, and +which is surmounted by the Belgic lion. This is an +immense work, two hundred feet high; and from the +summit we saw the entire field. Of course, we all +had our feelings excited at standing on a spot where +the two greatest soldiers of Europe measured +swords, and had a continent for spectators of the +conflict.</p> + +<p class="text">When the French army marched through Waterloo, +on their way to Antwerp, in 1831, they looked +savagely at the Belgian monument, and one man +fired his musket at the lion, and the mark is still +visible upon his chin.</p> + +<p class="text">We were much gratified at the farm-house of +Hougomont; and the hour we spent in its orchard +and gardens will long be remembered by us all. I +have read an account of the attack upon the house, +which says, "The Belgian yeoman's garden wall +was the safeguard of Europe, whose destinies hung +upon the possession of this house." The garden +wall is covered on the inside with ivy; and here we +secured several roots of the plant, and, having +bought a basket at the farm-house, we planted them +in earth taken from beside the grave of a British officer, +who fell in the orchard; his tombstone bears +the name of J.L. Blackman. These plants will +give us trouble to carry; but Dr. Choules has determined +upon carrying them home for Mr. Hall, +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_220" id="Page_220" title="220"></a></span>whose stone house needs ivy on the walls, and he +intends obtaining roots from various places of interest +in Europe, to serve as mementoes of other +lands.</p> + +<p class="text">The church is a small affair, but is full of the +testimonies of love and affection from fathers, +mothers, brothers, sisters, wives, children, and +friends, to those who fell in the bloody conflict.</p> + +<p class="text">We were annoyed by urchins, who beset our +steps, eager to sell us genuine relics of the field, +which are likely to increase in number as long as +there is a demand for them. George, of course, was +in his element, and he did little but plant the different +sites in his memory, for the purpose of comparing +notes, by and by, with Gleig, Headley, &c., &c.</p> + +<p class="text">I do not attempt to give you any thing like a description +of the place, or an account of the battle, +as you have books which are devoted to these +points.</p> + +<p class="text">It is a circumstance worthy of notice that, in +1705, the Duke of Marlborough came very near +fighting a battle with the French, on this ground, +but was prevented by the Dutch commissioners who +were with him.</p> + +<p class="text">We obtained some good engravings of the buildings +that are famous for their connection with the +battle, but they are nothing like as fine as the folio +illustrated volume of colored engravings which we +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_221" id="Page_221" title="221"></a></span>have so often looked over with interest. I tried to +get a copy in London at any price, and would +have given any thing in reason; but the work is out +of print and the market, and can only be gotten at +the sale of a collector.</p> + +<p class="text">On returning to Brussels, and enjoying our dinner +at a late hour, we passed the evening in the +Arcades, where we saw some beautiful goods exposed +for sale, and again examined some lacework. +You will smile at the idea of pocket +handkerchiefs which cost from one hundred to +one thousand dollars each. The embroidery of +letters upon lacework is costly; and we saw single +letters which had required a week's work.</p> + +<p class="text">We like this city, and, if time allowed us, should +certainly pass a week here. I should not forget to +say that we saw the king in the Park, near to his +palace. He looks like a man of fifty-five, and, I +thought, had a melancholy air.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">james.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_222" id="Page_222" title="222"></a></span></p> +<h2><a name="Letter_34" id="Letter_34"></a>Letter 34.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Antwerp.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + + +<p class="text">In company still with our friends from Bristol on +a wedding tour, we took the rail for Antwerp. The +arrangements of the railroad in Belgium seem to +me as perfect as they can be made. All is order, +civility, and comfort. On starting for this place, we +had the curiosity to inquire as to the number of passengers, +and found thirteen first class, seventy-one +second class, and one hundred and three third class. +The road we took lay through a level country, but +cultivated to a great degree; and the produce was +chiefly clover, beans, potatoes, grain, and turnips. +On leaving Brussels, we noticed the fine botanical +gardens on our right, and the Allée Verte, a noble +avenue of trees which reaches to Laeken, a pretty +village, dating as far back as the seventh century, +and containing a fine palace, where Leopold frequently +resides. Napoleon once occupied this palace, +and here it is said that he planned his Russian +campaign. The park is spacious, and the village +has a celebrated cemetery; and here Madame Malibran +reposes. The first stopping-place is at about +six miles from Brussels, at Vilvorde—a very ancient +town, having a population of not quite three +thousand. It is known in history as Filfurdum, and +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_223" id="Page_223" title="223"></a></span>was a place of some consequence in 760. It was +here that Tindal, who was the first translator of the +New Testament into English, suffered martyrdom, +in 1536, being burnt as a heretic. The Testament +was a 12mo. edition. It was published in 1526, and +probably was printed at Antwerp, where he then resided. +Fifteen hundred copies were printed, and +they were mostly bought up by Bishop Tonstall, and +destroyed. The only copy known to exist is in the +library of the Baptist College at Bristol. This copy +belonged to Lord Oxford, and he valued the acquisition +so highly that he settled twenty pounds a year +upon the person who obtained it for him. Both +Tindal's assistants in this great work—Fryth and +Roye—suffered martyrdom before his death. I am +sorry to find, by history, that Sir Thomas More employed +one Phillips to go over to Antwerp and decoy +Tindal into the hands of the emperor. The last +words of the martyr were, "Lord! open the King +of England's eyes." Sir Thomas More was a bitter +persecutor, and he was "recompensed in his own +ways." Not far from Vilvorde are the remains of +the chateau of Rubens; and in the same vicinity +is the house where Teniers is said to have lived. +Mechlin, or Malines, is a fine-looking town, with +twenty-five thousand inhabitants, and it is spelt by +early writers ways without number. The railroad +just touches on its skirts, and, of course, we could +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_224" id="Page_224" title="224"></a></span>only look at it. Its cathedral church loomed up; +and we longed to see its interior, where Vandyke's +greatest picture—the Crucifixion—is found in the +altar. The tower shows well at a distance. The +other churches have some pictures of great merit, +by Rubens. After passing Mechlin, we saw at our +right a large town, lying, perhaps, two miles off, and +then a still smaller one to the left, and a fine old +castle, which looked in good preservation. The road +led us through some fine country residences; and, +just before entering Antwerp, we passed Berchem, a +sweet little village. And I would not omit to say +that the small place called Vieux Dieu, before we +came to Berchem, is famous for being one of the +last places where heathenism retained its hold in this +port of Europe, and here was formerly an idol.</p> + +<p class="text">Antwerp—or, as the French write it, Anvers—is +a noble city on the River Scheldt, and is about +twenty-seven miles from Brussels. The population +is rather more than eighty thousand. The city is +laid out in the shape of a bow, and the river forms +the string. The river here is one hundred and ninety +yards wide. The tide rises about fifteen feet. This +place is of very ancient origin, and its legends are +mixed up with the fabulous. Early in the sixteenth +century it was an important town. It was fortified, +and became one of the chief places of trade for the +north of Europe. In 1520, the population was over +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_225" id="Page_225" title="225"></a></span>two hundred thousand. Five hundred vessels daily +came into and left the port, and two thousand others +were always lying in the river and basins of the +port. The death blow to this place was the treaty +of Munster, which stipulated that every vessel entering +the Scheldt should discharge her cargo in Holland, +so that it had to be conveyed to Antwerp by +land. The abolition of the Spanish power was severely +felt at Antwerp. You know, I suppose, that +this is regarded as one of the strongest fortifications +in Europe, and has been the scene of repeated +sieges. The last and most celebrated one was in +1832, when it was captured by the French, after a +brave defence of two months.</p> + +<p class="text">You cannot easily fancy what a charming old city +this is; but I shall try to give you some account of +it and our employments here. We put up at the +Hotel St. Antoine, in the Place Verte, nearly opposite +the cathedral, and it certainly is one of the best +houses we have seen any where. The court yard is +spacious, and has fine orange-trees around it. Our +rooms are very elegant, and on the first floor. The +coffee-room is admirably attended, and the <i>table +d'hôte</i> is the best we have yet set down to. A large +part of our anticipated pleasure arose from the fact +that here are the great works of Rubens; and in +the city of Rubens, Vandyke, Teniers, Jordaens, and +Quentin Matsys, we felt that we could not be +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_226" id="Page_226" title="226"></a></span>disappointed. In the Place Verte we find a colossal +statue of Rubens by Geefs; and passing on a few +steps, at the corner we come to the Cathedral +of Notre Dame, which is so celebrated all over +Europe as one of the grandest specimens of the +Gothic order of architecture. There is much +dispute as to the exact date of this church, but +the evidence is in favor of 1422, and it is known to +have been finished in 1518. This church is four +hundred and sixty-six feet high, five hundred feet +long, and two hundred and fifty wide. The nave +is thought to be the most superb in Europe; and +the side naves are double, forming two hundred +and thirty arches, supported by one hundred and +twenty-five magnificent pillars, and some of these +are twenty-seven feet in circumference. Here +Philip II., in 1555, held a chapter of the Golden +Fleece, at which nineteen knights and nine sovereign +princes were present. In 1559, Paul IV. made this +church a cathedral; but, in 1812, Pius VII. issued a +bull by which it was made dependent on the diocese +of Malines. The effect of the evening sun upon +the painted windows is the production of a glory +which no pen can describe. Charles V. was once an +actor here, for he stood godfather at the baptism of +the great bell. The pulpit is carved work, and done +by Verbruggen. It represents the four quarters of +the world, and, though elaborate, is not as beautiful +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_227" id="Page_227" title="227"></a></span>as the one in St. Gudule, at Brussels. The glory +of the church is the "breathing scroll" of Rubens, +so often seen upon the walls of its solemn aisles. +Here is Rubens's great picture,—the Descent from +the Cross. To this picture pilgrimages have been +made by all the lovers of art from other lands, and +all concede the grandeur of idea and the simplicity of +the style. There is quite a story about this picture, +in which Rubens and the crossbow-men of Antwerp +both figure, but which I have no time to tell you at +present. Nearly opposite is the Elevation of the +Cross. The Savior's face and figure are not to be +forgotten by any one who carefully gazes on this +canvas. Both these pictures were carried off by +the French, and also the Assumption of the Virgin, +which is the high altar-piece, and were restored by +the allied sovereigns in 1815. This last-named picture +is said to have been executed in sixteen days, +and his pay was one hundred florins a day. I like +it exceedingly; and <i>the</i> figure of the picture is more +spiritual than any other I have seen of the Virgin. +Its date is 1642. I advise you to read Sir Joshua +Reynolds's Lectures, where you will find a critical +description of these immortal pictures.</p> + +<p class="text">The steeple or tower is regarded as unrivalled, +and is one of the highest in the world. It is four +hundred and sixty-six feet high; and from the top we +could see Brussels, Ghent, Malines, Louvain, and +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_228" id="Page_228" title="228"></a></span>Flushing, and the course of the Scheldt lies beautifully +marked out. I hardly dare tell you how many bells +there are. Our valet said ninety-nine; one local +book of facts says eighty-eight; but I suppose there +are eighty or ninety; and every fifteen minutes they +do chime the sweetest music: Charles V. wished +the exquisite tower could be kept from harm in a +glass case. The tracery of this tower is like delicate +lacework, and no one can imagine half its +beauty. After we came down, we examined, at the +base, the epitaph of Quentin Matsys, once a black-smith, +and then, under the force of the tender passion, +he became a painter. The iron work over the +pump and well, outside the church, is his handiwork.</p> + +<p class="text">All round the cathedral are the finest old gabled +houses I ever saw, Charley. I never tire in looking +at them. They were the great houses of the time +when the Duke of Alva made Antwerp the scene of +his cruel despotism, and when the Inquisition carried +death and misery into men's families. The oppressions +of the Spaniards in this city sent many of the +best manufacturers from the Low Countries to England; +and Queen Elizabeth received them gladly.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours, &c.,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">weld.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_229" id="Page_229" title="229"></a></span></p> +<h2><a name="Letter_35" id="Letter_35"></a>Letter 35.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Antwerp.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">I believe the lads have told you what they have +seen in Belgium; and as they are just now busily +employed, I shall endeavor to tell you our doings +and enjoyments for the last day in this noble old +city. We have been to see St. James's Church, +where the great attraction is the tomb of Rubens. +The altar is exquisitely fine, and was the work of +Duquesnoy. Rubens brought it from Italy. Over +the tomb is the famous Holy Family, in which Rubens +has introduced himself as St. George, his father +as Jerome, his wives as Martha and Magdalene, his +grandfather as old Time, and his son as the Angel. +This wonderful creation of art was carried off by Napoleon +to the Louvre, but was restored to the church +in 1815. From hence we repaired to St. Paul's +Church. It was built in 1679. It has a noble appearance, +and retains its cloisters. In this building +we noticed the Flagellation, by Rubens; Jesus bearing +the Cross, by Vandyke; the Crucifixion and +Resurrection, by Jordaens; and the Adoration of the +Shepherds, by Rubens. As we left the church, we +visited the Calvary, which is at the entrance, or, +rather, off from it, at the right. It is meant to represent +the place of Christ's death. There are several +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_230" id="Page_230" title="230"></a></span>statues of prophets and apostles, and a sort of +grotto. At the end is Mount Calvary, and the summit +is the scene of the Savior's crucifixion. Beneath +is the tomb, the body, and the stone rolled away; +and at the left are bars and flames, and poor creatures +in purgatorial fires. A more wretched-looking +burlesque was never placed in the vicinage of art +and the productions of genius. Popery employs +such trickery unblushingly in Papal countries, but +withholds their exhibition from the common sense +of England and America, waiting till our education +shall fit us for the simple, unalloyed system of delusion.</p> + +<p class="text">We find the number of priests in Belgium much +greater than in France. We see them in the cars, +at the stations, and in every street. At one station, +on our way to Antwerp, we saw a most strangely-dressed +man. He wore a cloak, and the cape +formed a sort of hat. His head was shaved, and +his feet were bare. We learnt that he was a monk +of La Trappe. He was as noble a looking man as I +have seen in Europe.</p> + +<p class="text">We devoted the morning to the Museum, which +is so famous for containing the richest productions +of Rubens, Vandyke, Jordaens, and a host of other +great Flemish artists. As we entered, we saw, with +interest, the chair of Rubens, which he used in his +studio. It bears his name, and the date of 1638. +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_231" id="Page_231" title="231"></a></span>It is in a glass case. Rubens has sixteen pictures +here, of high character, and Vandyke several. We +were all delighted with No. 215—a Dead Christ on +a stone table, and the Virgin mourning at his side. +No. 212 is a wonderful composition—Christ crucified +between the Thieves. The look of the dying +penitent at his Savior is not to be forgotten. The +Magdalene of this picture is a creation of beauty indeed. +I have purchased a fine engraving of this picture, +and several others by Rubens, and I hope, by +looking at them long, to retain the impression I had +made on my mind as I gazed upon the originals. No. +221—the Trinity—is a profane and ungracious representation +of a Dead Christ in the arms of a stern +old man, who is intended for the Father. This picture +is wonderfully fine, as regards the foreshortening +of the dead body; and I never saw such an exhibition +in this respect. No. 218—- Christ showing his +Wounds to Thomas—is fine; but the picture has +suffered from damp.</p> + +<p class="text">Quentin Matsys has several of his productions +here, and we looked with interest at a fine Sir +Thomas More, by Holbein; the Flight into Egypt, +by Memling; Mater Dolorosa, by Albert Durer; +and many interiors, by Flemish artists. I was +greatly pleased with No. 382—the Death of Rubens, +by Van Brée, who died in 1839. This is large, and +I think a most effective picture. The two sons, the +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_232" id="Page_232" title="232"></a></span>priest, the wife fainting, and the two scribes, are admirably +disposed; and the open window, through +which the cathedral spire is seen, seems to me exceedingly +clever; but I fancy I admired it more +than artists have done. On leaving this noble collection, +we stopped at St. Andrew's Church to see a +portrait of Mary, Queen of Scots, over a monument +to the two Ladies Curl, one of whom waited on her +at her execution at Fotheringay Castle. After dinner +we sallied out to see the Exchange, or Bourse, +and from which the first London one was copied. +Of course, this gave it an interest to us, as we could +fancy we saw the royal building in which Queen +Bess made such a display, and of which Gresham +had so much reason to be proud. It is a piazza of +iron arches and granite pillars, surrounding a square +two hundred feet long by one hundred and sixty +wide. It was built in 1531.</p> + +<p class="text">On returning home, we accidentally met with Mr. +Vesey, the American consul. He invited us to his +drawing-room, and we had a very pleasant half hour. +But when he found we were to leave next day, he +insisted on taking us to the outskirts and showing us +the citadel and fortifications. In a few minutes he +had us in a carriage, and became our kind and efficient +guide till the loss of daylight rendered it useless +to look around. I think we shall never forget +the very great attention and friendship which we all +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_233" id="Page_233" title="233"></a></span>met with from this gentleman; and I was gratified to +hear him say that here, in Europe, nothing seemed +to interest him in relation to mere party strife at +home; while the honor and union of the country +seemed to him all and every thing. Mr. Vesey has +a good library and some fine paintings. He is a +man of taste, and marked by energy of character; +and is just such a representative of his country as +she needs at such points as Antwerp and other large +cities.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">j.o.c.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_36" id="Letter_36"></a>Letter 36.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Hague.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">I assure you we felt sorry to leave Antwerp; it is +such a thoroughly fine old place, has so much of old +Spanish history still bound up with its present aspect, +and is so decidedly foreign in its appearance, +language, &c. I have only time left to say a word +about the docks of Antwerp, which were a favorite +project of Napoleon Bonaparte. They were constructed +at an enormous outlay; and the emperor +expected to make this place the great rival of London. +At the peace of 1814, the dock yards were demolished; +but the great basins still exist, and are +used for purposes of commerce. They are useful +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_234" id="Page_234" title="234"></a></span>in winter, to preserve vessels from the ice which +floats in the Scheldt.</p> + +<p class="text">It was a lovely morning when, having parted +with our English friends, who proceeded to Bruges, +we entered on board an iron steamer for a passage +of about eight hours to Rotterdam. The boat was +neat and clean, though small, and the cabin was +adorned with baskets and pots of flowers of various +kinds. The view of the city and its fortifications +was fine, as the boat receded from the shore. On +our way we passed Dort, one of the finest towns of +Holland, and from appearances, I think, one of +much trade. Its population is twenty thousand. +Here, in 1618, was held the famous Synod of Dort, +the great labor of which was to settle the claims of +the rival systems of Calvin and Arminius. At this +synod, Bishop Hall was a delegate from the English +church; and he, good man, never dreamed of denying +the validity of the ordination of his brethren in +that council. We felt interested, as we sailed along +this town, in remembering that here, in 1421, seventy-two +villages and more than one hundred thousand +persons were drowned by the incursion of +water from the dike. The river stretches far away, +and looks much like a lake.</p> + +<p class="text">If any one looks at the face of the country, he +will at once understand why these regions have been +termed the Low Countries. We passed, as you +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_235" id="Page_235" title="235"></a></span>may see on the map, Gravendeel, Willeinstadt, and +the far-famed fortress of Bergen op Zoom, which is +one of the strongest places in Holland. You know +that Antwerp stood a long siege in 1831, when it +suffered severely; and, as we passed Fort St. Laurent, +we were pointed out the spot where a most +gallant occurrence happened at that time. A gun +boat, belonging to Holland, got on shore, and the +Belgians hastened to capture her, when her captain, +a young man named Van Speyk, rushed into the +magazine, put his cigar upon an open keg of powder, +and, in the explosion, perished, with twenty-eight +of his crew out of thirty-one. He was an +orphan, who had been educated at Amsterdam. He +has a fine monument next to Admiral De Ruyter's, +and a fine ship of the Dutch navy bears his name. +On board our boat we found two young gentlemen, +of about fifteen or sixteen, belonging to Rotterdam, +who were going home for vacation.. They are pupils +at a boarding school in Brussels. They spoke +English very well, and gave us a great deal of pleasing +information. The dinner on the boat was very +excellent. On reaching Rotterdam, we merely rode +through it to take the cars for the Hague. It is a +fine-looking town, has seventy-five thousand inhabitants, +and some noble East Indiamen were lying at +the wharves. Many of the houses were like those +at Antwerp, and told a Spanish origin. I here +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_236" id="Page_236" title="236"></a></span>noticed looking-glasses at the windows, so that any +one in the parlor can see the reflection up and down +the streets. I was glad to be able to see the bronze +statue of Erasmus, who was born here in 1467. +We were delayed by the absence of the authorities +to sign our passports, but were in time to reach the +ears, and then started for the Hague, which is thirteen +miles from Rotterdam; and we were forty +minutes on the way. The road is excellent. We +passed through Delft, and here we could not fail to +admire the gardens and country-houses. It was +dark as we entered the town; and we took up our +quarters at the Doelen, which is a name indicating +that archers have resorted thither. Whoever goes +to this house will be sure to do well. We obtained +capital rooms. Early next morning we called on +Mr. George Folsom, our <i>chargé d'affaires</i>. This +gentleman is an old friend of mine; and he gave us a +most cordial welcome, taking entire possession of our +party for the day. Mr. Folsom resides in very handsome +style upon the Voorhout, the best street of the +city, and which, like every other part of the place, +is adorned with noble trees. It seems strange to +call this place a city, it is so thoroughly rural in its +appearance. It hardly shows like a town of sixty-five +thousand people on account of being concealed +in shrubbery, cut up by canals, and overshadowed +with forest-trees.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_237" id="Page_237" title="237"></a></span>Very early in the day we were kindly provided +with carriages, and taken to Scheveningen, a village +about three miles off. Our road lay through a fine +avenue of trees. This is a great fishing-place, and +a great watering-place. It has a large hotel, which +we went to for lunch. It is the great rendezvous +of the fashionable part of society in Germany during +the heat of summer. We could not help drawing a +contrast between Scheveningen and Newport, and +not much to the advantage of the Dutch beach. +This spot has some celebrity, as the port whence +Charles II. embarked for England at his restoration. +On our way back we saw the residence of the +queen dowager, sister to the Emperor of Russia, and +of whom Mr. Folsom speaks highly, as a very excellent +and sensible lady. Mrs. Folsom and the ladies +of our party had visited the queen the day before. +The house looked quite snug, and very unpretending. +On returning, we at once repaired to the Museum, +which is supposed to be, in many respects, the +finest in Europe. Here, too, is the famous picture +gallery, in which are the best productions of the +Flemish and Dutch schools. You are aware that +Holland has had extensive trade with China and +Japan, through her colonies; hence the richness of +this museum, which, so far as Japan is concerned, is +unrivalled. I have a catalogue of this wonderful +collection, and to that I must refer you; for, as to +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_238" id="Page_238" title="238"></a></span>description of what I saw, it would be impossible to +tell you a hundredth part. The Oriental curiosities +are very rich and fine. A plan of Jeddo, the capital +of Japan, is very curious—made by natives. +The historical treasures are rich and numerous. +Here we saw the armor of De Ruyter, and that of +Van Tromp, well scored with bullets; the sword of +Van Speyk; a part of Czar Peter's bed; the dress +of William of Orange when he was murdered at +Delft; the pistol and bullets by which he fell, &c., +&c. We all expected much pleasure from the gallery +of paintings, and I believe we experienced no +disappointment; and how could we, with such +treasures of art and genius? Here we noticed with +most interest Rembrandt's Surgeon and Pupils dissecting +a dead Body. This is No. 127. The body +is admirable, and the legs are thrown into shadow. +The portraits are lifelike. The portraits of Rembrandt's +wives are fine specimens of coloring. No. +123 is the world-renowned Bull, by Paul Potter. +The glory of this work is its minute adherence to +nature. The leaves and plants, and every appearance +of vegetation, impresses the spectator with the +idea of reality. This was carried off to the Louvre, +although the Dutch offered twenty thousand pounds +sterling to redeem it. I liked the pictures of De +Ruyter and Van Tromp; but the treat of all to me +was the show of small Dutch pictures, by Gerard +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_239" id="Page_239" title="239"></a></span>Dow, thirty-five in number; a Battle Field and Hay +Cart, by Wouvermans, and many others from his +studio; Flight into Egypt, by Vanderwerp; Fruits +and Flowers, by Breughels; Interiors of Cottages, +by A.V. Ostades; a Kitchen, by Teniers; and a +very large Hunting-piece by Snyders, whom I +greatly admire. As to portraits, they are in any +number, and some are very fine. One of Laurence +Coster, by Durer, is curious.</p> + +<p class="text">We went to see the late King's Palace, and here +we found only the relics of the splendid gallery +which was once to be seen. An auction had recently +disposed of more than half the paintings. +The late monarch was a man of taste, but had sadly +involved himself in its gratification. Many of the +paintings here are exceedingly fine, and will be disposed +of in a public sale next October. After leaving +this palace, we went with Mr. Folsom to see the +Brimenhoff. This is the place where the Dutch +parliament meets. We went into the second chamber +and heard the debates, which were not very edifying. +The appearance of the members was very much +like that of a New England assembly of legislators.</p> + +<p class="text">The fine Gothic Hall here is said to be the oldest +building in the city. It was on a scaffolding in front +of it that Barneveldt, the grand pensionary of Holland, +was beheaded, in 1618, at the age of seventy-two. +We also saw the gateway of the tower in +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_240" id="Page_240" title="240"></a></span>which Cornelius De Witt was confined, in 1672, on +the ridiculous charge of conspiracy against the +Prince of Orange. The populace feared his acquittal, +and they by a manœuvre induced his brother +John De Witt, the grand pensionary, to visit him +in prison. They then broke in, dragged them +forth, and tore them to pieces under the gateway. +We went to look at De Witt's residence, which is +plain and unpretending.</p> + +<p class="text">I do wish you could have been with us in our ride +through the Bosch, a fine park of forest-trees near +to the town. The forest never looked more pleasant +to me than here. May is a sweet month, and +especially when, with all her verdant beauty, she is +just about to rush into the arms of June. We all +talked of you in the charming drive, and Mr. Folsom +made kind inquiries after you. On reaching +home, we went with our kind guide to see the house +which was occupied by John Adams when he was +at this court negotiating a treaty with Holland in aid +of our independence.</p> + +<p class="text">We are to spend to-morrow and next day at Harlem, +on our way to Amsterdam; and the boys will +tell you what we see there.</p> + +<p class="center">Affectionately yours,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">j.o.c.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_241" id="Page_241" title="241"></a></span></p> +<h2><a name="Letter_37" id="Letter_37"></a>Letter 37.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Amsterdam.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">In order that we might enjoy an opportunity to +hear the great organ at Harlem to advantage, Mr. +Folsom advised us to spend a Sabbath day there, +which we did, in company with his family. We +took the rail to Leyden, ten miles. Here we saw +the Dunes, or Sand Hills, which guard the Dutch +coast, and which are from one to four miles in +width, and are from thirty to fifty feet high. These +immense piles would soon be scattered by the strong +winds if they were not regularly sown with reed +grass, the roots of which often spread from twenty to +thirty feet, binding the banks, and the decayed vegetation +furnishing good soil for potatoes. The existence +of Holland and its population is only insured +by perpetual strife maintained against the sea and +winds of heaven. We could not look at Leyden +and forget that the Pilgrim Fathers of New England +were once exiles at this place. They called it a +"goodly and pleasant city," and here they spent +twelve years; and we looked at the scenery with +interest as we thought of their wanderings, and how +much preparation was expended in establishing the +glorious foundations of our own New England. +The city has about forty thousand inhabitants. Its +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_242" id="Page_242" title="242"></a></span> +University is still famous, and the hall of the institution +is rich in portraits of the great and good. The +Museum of Natural History is very large, and is +quite curious in Oriental and Egyptian relics. In +Japanese curiosities, the Dutch museums are far +more affluent than any others of Europe, as they +maintain almost exclusive traffic with Japan.</p> + +<p class="text">The history of Leyden is very interesting. In +1573-4, this town suffered an awful siege from the +Spaniards for four months, and lost more than five +thousand inhabitants by war and famine. At last +the elements conspired in their favor, and an incursion +of the sea destroyed the Spaniards and brought +succor to the Dutch. Rembrandt the painter was +born at Leyden, in a wind mill. By the way, there +are literally thousands of wind mills in this country, +and some of them are very pretty objects. The +sails of these mills are immensely large, and I think +I saw some that were quite one hundred feet long. +Many of the best men of England have studied at +Leyden; and if you read the lives of Evelyn and +Goldsmith, you will find they were much attached to +this place. Boerhaave, the great physician, was a +professor here, and go were Arminius and his rival +Gomarus. Gerard Dow or Douw, Jan Steen, and +Vandervelde, the artists, were born here. Near Leyden +the Rhine enters the sea, by the aid of a canal and +sluice gates; and here are great salt works, carried +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_243" id="Page_243" title="243"></a></span>on by evaporation. From Leyden we took the rail +to Harlem, eighteen miles; and we found the road +very good, and the first-class cars perfectly luxurious. +We noticed on our right hand the Warmond +Catholic Seminary for Popish priests, and saw the +young men in large numbers, walking about. The +road runs through a sandy tract of country, and +much of it is made land. Approaching Harlem, we +found the cottages and country-houses very numerous +and exceedingly pretty; and we were pointed to the +castle of the unfortunate Jacqueline, whose history, +you know, has been so charmingly written by our +friend Mr. T.C. Grattan. We made our home at +the Golden Lion, and found the place comfortable +and very thoroughly Dutch. The landlady is a brisk, +bustling body, and speaks English tolerably well. +Harlem has about twenty-fire thousand inhabitants. +On Sunday morning we went to the Church of St. +Bavon. We found a large congregation, and they +sung most heartily. The dominie had a cocked hat +hanging up behind him in the pulpit; and he was, beyond +doubt, a very eloquent man. The great organ, +built in 1738, was long deemed <i>the</i> organ of Europe, +but is now supposed to be excelled at Friburg. +We heard it during service several times, and in a voluntary. +It unquestionably is an instrument of great +sweetness as well as power. It has five thousand +pipes. The church is lofty, and looks plain enough +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_244" id="Page_244" title="244"></a></span>after what we have seen in Antwerp. Of course, +we went to see the statue of Coster, who is said to +have been the inventor of printing in 1420-28, +twelve years before Guttemberg made his experiments. +The Dutch are strong advocates for their +inventor; but I think evidence in favor of metal type +lies with the man of Mayence.</p> + +<p class="text">You may be sure that, when we were so fortunate +as to be here early in June, we did not fail to go +into the nurseries and gardens, and see the hyacinths, +tulips, narcissuses, anemones, ranunculuses, +&c. We went to the extensive grounds of Mr. +Krelage, the first florist of Holland, No. 146 Kleine +Houtweg; and here we were greatly delighted. The +tulips were exceedingly fine, and under cover they +receive as much attention as if they were babies. +The hyacinths surpassed in beauty and variety any +thing we are accustomed to. I noticed a double +blue, called Gloria Mundi; Van Speyk, L'Importante, +same color; Goethe, double yellow; L'Eclair, +crimson; and Emicus, white, which were particularly +beautiful. But we were all, perhaps, most +pleased with the extensive beds of anemones and +ranunculuses, which rarely do well in our hot climate, +and here flourish in a humid atmosphere. +Certainly they are the prettiest flowers I ever saw; +but they lack perfume. Here we saw them by thousands. +The exquisite order and condition of these +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_245" id="Page_245" title="245"></a></span>large gardens pleased us much. The young gentleman +who kindly devoted three hours to us spoke +English well, and was very courteous and attentive. +I have brought away a catalogue of the flowers, +with the prices. The soil of Harlem is every where +a deep sand, and every thing appears to flourish.</p> + +<p class="text">The vicinage of this place is very pleasant; and +we rode for two hours through a noble wood, +fringed with sweet villas, and made a visit to a palace +built by the great banker, Hope, of Amsterdam, +and which was the residence of King Louis Bonaparte. +It is now a picture gallery, and contains +some good historical pictures, and many fine small +ones, of the best artists of Holland. I think the +boys forgot to tell you that, at the Hague, we found +the annual exhibition of paintings by the living artists +of Holland, just opened, and the treat was very +great. It is quite clear that the art is not lost here, +and that rare excellence is still to be found among +the Dutch painters. We were all delighted with a +picture of Charles IX. of France, and his surgeon, +Ambrose Paré. The time is just before the Bartholomew +massacre; and Catharine is in the room, +plotting with her wretched son. Some of the portraits +were remarkable productions, and evince a +power rarely seen in this department. Some of the +interiors of houses and churches were quite in the +style of Ostade, Neefs, and Gerard Dow. A picture +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_246" id="Page_246" title="246"></a></span>of the Virgin, and Jesus and John, by Schwartze, of +Amsterdam, received general praise. Of this artist +I shall have more to say.</p> + +<p class="text">The great Lake of Harlem, which is thirty miles +in circumference, is to be drained; and for several +years operations have been in progress to this end. +The immense works employed for this purpose are +worthy of notice.</p> + +<p class="text">After leaving Harlem, and taking leave of our +kind friend the minister at the Hague, with his +amiable family, we again entered the cars, and, after +riding twelve miles, reached Amsterdam. The chief +feature on the way was the everlasting wind mill, +employed here to grind wheat, &c. We went to +the Hotel Doelen, and found it all that Mr. Folsom +had said. This is a great city, of two hundred and +twenty-five thousand inhabitants. The canals are +immense affairs, and the ships and vessels of all sorts +give it a very active appearance. All round the city +is a wide fosse; and there are four great canals inside, +with many minor cuts. Some of these canals +are more than one hundred and twenty-five feet +wide, and are edged with very fine houses; and the +intercourse of the city is kept up by some two hundred +and fifty bridges. The city is about eight +miles round. Every one seems actively employed.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">j.o.c.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_247" id="Page_247" title="247"></a></span></p> +<h2><a name="Letter_38" id="Letter_38"></a>Letter 38.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Amsterdam.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">The next morning after reaching this fine, but +queer city, we called on the American consul, and +he gave us a very friendly reception. He is quite a +young man, but seems to be full of energy. At his +house we met a Mr. J. G. Schwartze, a native of +Philadelphia, but who came to Holland very young, +and has made this city his residence. He is highly +distinguished as an artist; and we saw a fine production +of his at the exhibition at the Hague. Mr. +Schwartze is a charming companion—full of enthusiasm; +and when he found that I was fond of pictures, +he at once volunteered to be our guide to the +galleries here; and in all our movements here our +kind friend has been with us. The most imposing +building here is the Stadhuis, or Palace. It was finished +in 1655, and used to be the seat of the town councils. +Louis Bonaparte used it as his residence; and +the king occupies it when he comes here. The +marble hall is esteemed one of the noblest rooms in +Europe, and is one hundred and twenty feet long, +fifty-seven wide, and nearly one hundred feet high. +From the top of this building you get a capital view +of the town, cut up into artificial islands by the intersection +of canals, &c. In this building is much +fine statuary, and a few historical paintings.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_248" id="Page_248" title="248"></a></span>The churches are large, but look barn-like. The +organ of the old church is very rich in its decorations; +and here, as at Harlem, men sit in church with +their hats on, if they choose. The clergy wear a +short, black cloak, and deep white ruffs on the neck. +The Jews are quite numerous, and have several synagogues. +They live mostly in one part of the city. +I do not think we shall any of us forget our visit to +the picture gallery at Amsterdam. Our attention +was directed by Mr. S. to the best paintings, and the +particular merits of the artists were kindly explained +to us. The sight of a great picture is an event; and +I think that the day on which I first saw Rembrandt's +Night Watch will long be regarded by me with +pleasurable feelings. It is a company of archers, +who are going out with their captain. The lights +and shades are wonderfully introduced. The City +Guards of Amsterdam, by Vanderhelst, is a large +picture, with twenty-five portraits, and is esteemed +as the finest portrait picture in the world. But my +favorite here is a small picture called the Night +School, by Gerard Dow. I would cheerfully go a +hundred miles on foot to see such a picture. The +management of the lights upon the interior and figures +is beyond any thing I have imagined. His Hermit +and Crucifix is another gem. The picture of +Officers plundered by Peasants, by Wouvermans, +and several landscapes of his, are still in my mind's +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_249" id="Page_249" title="249"></a></span>eye; and several pictures by the two Ostades, Teniers, +and Both are quite sufficient to make me understand +how it is that some men have found such +fascination in collecting a gallery. The best specimens +of Jan Steen are in this city, and his Fête of +St. Nicholas would take wonderfully well with our +good old Knickerbockers at home. A Landscape, +with cattle and figures, by Albert Cuyp, is strikingly +beautiful; and how I wish you could see a Fat Boy, +the son of a burgomaster, by Bartholomew Helst, +dated 1648. Vandyke, whose portraits have never +been equalled, has some of his best in this museum; +and his Burgomaster of Antwerp, Vander Brocht, is +as bold a picture as you could wish to gaze at.</p> + +<p class="text">Hondekoeter's flowers and fruits, and Snyder's +game pieces, are among the best of their kind in +the world. Some of the finest things I have +seen in Holland, in the way of painting, are the +little gems descriptive of life as it lay about the +artist—interiors of domestic abodes, and out-door +scenes at the roadside. These, the patient, plodding +Dutchmen have worked up most elaborately. One +or two of Nicholas Maes's pictures are wonderful. +I saw one in a private collection, and it was a glorious +thing, though only a Kitchen, with two or three +figures. O, how poor are the things we often hear +spoken of as fine pictures! The eye, it seems to +me, obtains its education rapidly in such a gallery as +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_250" id="Page_250" title="250"></a></span>this. I am sure I shall look at works of art in future +with new feelings.</p> + +<p class="text">There was a most beautiful Jew boy, about eleven +years old, that used to stand at our hotel door to sell +matches, who regularly beset us with his wares. His +face was as striking as any fancy picture you can +meet with, and his beauty and impudence made him +a pretty successful merchant.</p> + +<p class="text">Mr. Schwartze took us to a noble mansion belonging +to a merchant prince, to see his great picture +of Columbus before the Council explaining his +theory. This is a first-class execution. The coloring +is very fine, and the drawing good; and we all +felt pride in seeing such a picture from the easel of +our countryman. I wish we had some good painting +of his in America. His portraits are excellent, +and one of his wife has earned him his high reputation +in Holland. Through the kindness of this gentleman +we were introduced to the Artists' Club, and +spent our evenings there in very pleasant society. +The artists belonging to it are probably about fifty, +and the other gentlemen who mainly support it are +about two hundred. I was much surprised to find +nearly every gentleman we were introduced to speaking +excellent English. We met here a very gentlemanly +and accomplished lawyer, Mr. Van Lennep, +whose father is a man of great wealth. His attentions +were very friendly. While here, James was +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_251" id="Page_251" title="251"></a></span>quite poorly with some slight attack of fever; and +both our friends and the consul were unremitting in +their services.</p> + +<p class="text">The water is very poor; rain water is valuable +indeed. The best drinking water is brought from +Utrecht in stone demijohns. The bad water is often +used, however, flavored with Schiedam. We saw +several of the floating-houses, in which whole families +reside, and carry articles from place to place. +The herring fishery, in its season, is a great matter +in the commerce of Amsterdam. Every thing here +impresses the stranger with the idea of activity, +wealth, and great comfort; and I fancy that a person +would very soon become attached to the city as +a place of residence. To-morrow, if James is better, +we resume our journey, and start for Cologne.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">weld.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_39" id="Letter_39"></a>Letter 39.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Cologne.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">We are strangely favored with weather; every +day is fine; and we begin to think that the climate +has been abused, for we have had an uninterrupted +spell of bright, sunny weather. We started, after +breakfast, for our journey to Cologne, and took the +oars for Utrecht, which is twenty-three miles from +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_252" id="Page_252" title="252"></a></span>Amsterdam. Our road was not one of much interest, +beyond the pretty gardens of the suburban residences. +Breukelen and Maarsen we thought pleasant +little places. Utrecht is a large town, and has, +I think, nearly sixty thousand inhabitants; and of +these, one half are Catholics. It is rather on an +ascent, and so is unlike any other place we have +seen in Holland. The place is famous for the treaty +of 1713. Here is a university, and some very fine +private residences; and the fortifications have been +laid out in fine walks. The Mall, or public walk, is +a noble avenue of trees,—limes, I think,—and they +are in six or eight rows. In this place is a cathedral, +which we only saw. From its tower is the +best view of the country; and it is said you can +see more than twenty towns from it.</p> + +<p class="text">From Utrecht we continued, by railroad, to Arnheim, +a distance of thirty-three miles; and we saw +more forest-trees than we had before noticed. In +the cars were several Catholic priests, who smoked +incessantly. Arnheim is on the banks of the Rhine, +and is a pretty little place, of about sixteen thousand +inhabitants. We were, of course, reminded by Dr. +C. that here Sir Philip Sidney died, in 1586, of his +wound received in the battle of Zutphen. The entire +vicinity seemed to us a delightful spot, and we +have seen no place where the houses appear so English +and American. The scenery is very attractive; +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_253" id="Page_253" title="253"></a></span>and we would have liked to stay over a day, but the +steamer for Ruhrort was ready to start, and we had +only time to get our tickets and go on board. We +found a neat, comfortable boat, and met pleasant society. +The Rhine here is bounded by flat shores, +and has no points of interest, and affords no promise +of what it is so soon to be. We entered Prussia at +Lobith, and had a very thorough examination of our +trunks by officers who came on board. At Wesel—a +town, I think, of some twelve thousand inhabitants, +and having a very strong fortress—we stopped half +an hour, and a crowd came round the boat. Rapin, +who wrote the History of England, lived here while +engaged in the task. How singular it is that all the +histories of England, of any note, have been written +by men not born in England! They have been +French, Scotch, Irish, &c. We reached Ruhrort in +the afternoon, and left the boat. This is the great +central depot where the coal of the Ruhr is deposited. +Here we crossed in a ferry boat, rode a mile +or two in an omnibus, and then took the cars for Cologne, +after waiting some hour or two, in consequence +of a delay—the first we have met with on +any railroad on the continent. It was dark when we +passed through Dusseldorf; and we felt sorry not to +stay here and see the water-color drawings that remain +in this collection, once so famous; but we +were told at Paris that the best of the drawings and +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_254" id="Page_254" title="254"></a></span>pictures have gone to Munich. In the cars we met +a gentleman and his lady who were evidently Americans. +We entered into conversation, and found they +were from Nashville, Tennessee. They bad been +travelling very extensively in Europe, and had been +through Egypt, crossed the desert, and visited Syria +and the Holy City. I quite respected a lady, Charley, +who had travelled hundreds of miles upon a +camel. The journey had been very beneficial to +her health. We reached Cologne at about ten +o'clock, after crossing over a bridge of boats fourteen +hundred feet long, and went to the Hotel Holland, +on the banks of the river, and found it a very +good house, with a grand view of the Rhine; and +the chambers are as good as can be desired. Few +places are more fruitful in the reminiscences which +they furnish than this old city. Cologne has a +Roman origin, and was settled by a colony sent by +Nero and his mother, who was born here, in her +father's camp, during the war. It still retains the +walls of its early fortifications, built as long ago +as the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. In Cologne +Caxton lived, in 1470, and learnt the new art of +printing, which he carried to England and introduced +there. Its present population is about ninety +thousand, having increased latterly, and, no doubt, +will rapidly increase, in consequence of its connection +with Paris, Strasburg, Berlin, Antwerp, and other +cities, by railroads.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_255" id="Page_255" title="255"></a></span>We turned our steps very early to the Cathedral, +and here we expected nothing less than a treat; but +much as we had heard of it, and often as the doctor +had described it, we found it far beyond all our anticipations. +The church was commenced in 1248, +and is still far from completed. It is always thought +to be one of the grandest Gothic piles in the world. +The name of the architect is not known. Gerhard +is the earliest builder whose name is associated with +this church, in 1252. The plan was to build the two +towers five hundred feet high; but the loftiest has +only attained the height of about one hundred and +eighty-five feet. Much of the external work is in +decay; but great pains and cost have been given +to repair the stone work, and the work is going +on with vigor and success. It is supposed that +it will require three millions of dollars to carry +out the design. The form of the church is a +cross, and "the arches are supported by a quadruple +row of sixty-four columns; and, including those of +the portico, there are more than one hundred. The +four columns in the middle are thirty feet in circumference, +and each of the one hundred columns is +surmounted by a chapiter different from the others." +On one tower still exists the old crane which raised +the stones that came from Drachenfels. The only +part of the cathedral yet finished is the choir. This +is one hundred and sixty-one feet high; and, whether +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_256" id="Page_256" title="256"></a></span>you look at it outside, or gaze on its interior, you +are lost in admiration. The stained windows are +really beyond all others I have seen. All round the +choir stand colossal statues of the Apostles, the Virgin, +and the Savior. In a chapel not far from the +altar is the renowned shrine of the Three Kings, or +Magi, who came from the East with gifts to the infant +Savior. These bones once rested at Milan; but +Frederic Barbarossa, in 1162, gave them to an archbishop +of Cologne. So here they are in a case, +silver gilt, and arcades on pillars all round; and, inside +the pillars, little gold prophets and apostles. +The jewelry at this shrine has been formerly valued +at six millions of francs; but in some of its transportations +in troublous times, it has met with spoliations; +but it is still radiant with gold and pearls, +and gems of all descriptions. The restoration of +the shrine is going on, and costly offerings are frequently +made in aid of the undertaking. The +skulls of these worthies are crowned with gold, and +look ghastly enough, in spite of diamonds and rubies. +Their names are Caspar, Melchior, and Balthasar. +We paid a heavy fee to see the rare show; but it is +well enough to understand the mummery that there +is in the world. We went the entire round of the little +chapels, and saw some fine monuments to the great +ones of church and state. I was much pleased with +a bronze statue of Archbishop Conrad, of Hock<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_257" id="Page_257" title="257"></a></span>steden, +who died in 1261, and some exceedingly old +paintings. We also saw the library and sacristy, +and the sacred vestments, some of which were splendid +enough. Here we saw a bone of St. Matthew +some saint's shrine in silver, and the state cross of +the archbishop, with several of the very finest ivory +carvings that we have fallen in with. A look at the +vast workshop where the stone carvings for restoration +are made was quite interesting.</p> + +<p class="text">While wandering through the aisles of the Cathedral, +we met with a very pleasant family from New +York; and, after introduction, we agreed to make +the passage of the Rhine together; and, as there +are young people in the party, this will be very +agreeable to us. We have rather a limited time to +pass here, and so have concluded to neglect the Virgin's +bones, at St. Ursula's Church, of which we have +read all the legends. Men and women trained up to +worship these odds and ends are the people who are +flocking by thousands to our country; and there is a +great deal for such folks to learn before they will +value and understand our privileges. We next +turned our steps to St. Peter's Church, where Rubens +was baptized; and we saw the brass font, +which is still there, and also his father's tomb. It +was to this church that the great painter presented +his famous Crucifixion of Peter, which he thought +the best he ever painted; but artists differ with him +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_258" id="Page_258" title="258"></a></span>in this estimate. The picture now exposed to view +is only a copy, which was made in Paris when the +original was in the Louvre; but the man in charge +turns the picture, which is on a pivot, and you have +the original before you. Peter's head is very fine, +and much more striking than the rest of the body. +The little garden in the cloisters of this church is +very sweet, and there are some good bits of sculpture. +The beautiful Church of the Apostles we +could not see, excepting outside, and its appearance +is quite singular. The styles of architecture I +thought strangely mixed up. Of course, we got +some cologne water at the genuine fountain head in +Julich's Place; and in the evening we made an examination +of a curiosity shop, where we found a fine +old engraving of Rubens's head, and two excellent +engravings of Ostades's interiors. They are gems +in their way, and, though very old, are perfect. We +saw the house where the unfortunate Queen of +France died, in 1644, respecting whose last days so +interesting a fiction has been written; and we were +told that it was also the very house in which Rubens +was born. At all events, it is a very plain establishment +for such celebrity as it possesses. We +have also seen a military review here; but the discipline +was poor, and only the music good.</p> + +<p class="text">A gentleman here from America, engaged in the +wine trade, has amused us all by his facts in relation +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_259" id="Page_259" title="259"></a></span>to champagne, which is here manufactured in large +quantities, and is fabricated from a mixture of some +ten or twelve different wines. A very superior +brand is the result, which the good people of America +will pay well for, with an appropriate brand duly +furnished to order.</p> + +<p class="text">On the roof of our hotel is a sort of room, or +garden, called the Belvedere. In it are a variety of +fine plants, in healthy condition. The roses were +very fragrant. The view across the river from this +place is charming; and the village of Deutz looks +prettily, with its large hotel and plenty of smaller +houses of resort. To-morrow we go up the Rhine; +and we are all hoping for a fine day, and then we +expect a pleasant one.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">james.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_40" id="Letter_40"></a>Letter 40.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Frankfort.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">It was on the Rhine that we all wanted you with +us, and other friends, too, who were far away. This +is no common, every-day stream, but one whose +name and renown have been associated with ten +thousand pages of history, song, and legend. We +have read of the Rhine, listened to its songs, drank +its wines, dreamed of its craggy, castled banks,—and +at last we found ourselves upon its waters, +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_260" id="Page_260" title="260"></a></span>rushing down from their homes in Alpine steeps and +regions of eternal snow. The deposits of this river +have made Holland what she is; and the rich plains +of the Low Countries have been formed by the alluvial +deposits of this noble river. The enthusiasm +of the Germans towards this stream is well known. +They call it Father Rhine, and King Rhine; and +well may they be proud of its beauty and its historic +fame. We took our passage in a fine steamer, on a +lovely morning, and it took us about eight hours to +reach Coblentz. Leaving Cologne, we passed an +old tower on the edge of the river, and, for some +miles, the prospect was every day enough; and it +was not till we approached Bonn that we were much +impressed with the banks. We passed several villages, +which appeared to have pleasant localities. I +name only Surdt, Urfel, Lulsdorf, and Alfter. Bonn +is an old city, of Roman date, and has figured +largely in the wars of the Rhine. Its population is +about sixteen thousand. Bonn has a minster, which +shows itself finely to the voyager on the river, and +is a Gothic structure of the twelfth century. The +University here is famous for its library, and the +great names formerly associated with this institution—Schlegel +and Niebuhr. Both filled chairs in the +college. Prince Albert was educated at this place. +Beethoven was born here. If we could have spent +a day at the Seven Mountains, I should have been +glad; but we were only able to look at them. +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_261" id="Page_261" title="261"></a></span>They vary in height from one thousand and fifty to +fourteen hundred and fifty-three feet. The most +picturesque of the group is Drachenfels; and the +beautiful lines of Byron you will recollect, where +he speaks of "the castled crag of Drachenfels." +From this place the stone was taken for the Cathedral +at Cologne. The summits of these seven +mountains are crested with ruined castles. Their +sides are well wooded, and around them are spread +fruitful vineyards. You know how famous they are +in the legendary lore of the Rhine. The view from +Drachenfels is said to be one of the finest on the +river. After leaving Bonn and the ruins of Godesberg, +we soon came to Rolandseck, a lofty eminence, +where are the remains of a baronial fortress +and a celebrated ruin of an arch. I should judge +that the access to this place was by a charming road. +The ruins of Rolandseck are immortalized by the +ballad of Schiller. Tradition relates that the castle +was destroyed by the Emperor Henry V., in the +twelfth century. At the foot of the mountain is the +sweet little Island of Nonnenwörth, of about one +hundred acres, and the ruins of a convent. The +rock here is basaltic, and the production of volcanic +action. Never did Nature present a fairer picture +than we gazed upon at this spot. The villages +around are pictures of happiness and content, and +the scenery such as only the Rhine can exhibit. +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_262" id="Page_262" title="262"></a></span>Passing by the charming, rural-looking Oberwinter, +we soon came upon a woody height, where stands +the Gothic Church of St. Apollinarisberg. Here is, +or was, the saint's head; and it was formerly a shrine +of great resort. Close by is the little tower Of +Remagen, and opposite are basaltic rocky heights +of six or eight hundred feet, on the sides of which +are vineyards—the vines growing in baskets filled +with earth and placed in the crevices of the rocks. +No square foot of soil seems to be wasted; and, +to improve the ground, you will find the plots for +vines laid out like potato patches,—some running +this way, and others that,—making the sides of the +hills and banks look very much like basket work.</p> + +<p class="text">We now came, on our left hand, to the ruins of +Okenfels and the pretty town of Linz. The ruins +are very dark, and look as if they were past redemption; +whereas, some of these castles retain +fine outlines. The red roofs of the town are in +pleasing contrast with the green woods. This town +seemed quite a business place; and I noticed several +sloops and queer-looking vessels at the piers. On +the opposite side the Aar falls into the Rhine. Just +back is a town called Sinzig, and story tells that +here Constantine and Maxentius fought the battle +which resulted in the downfall of paganism. Here +it was that, the evening previous, Constantine saw in +the heavens the figure of a cross, with the inscription, +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_263" id="Page_263" title="263"></a></span> +<span title='[Greek: "En toutô nika."]'>"<i>Εν τουτω νικα</i>."</span> +But other legends give the battle +place on the banks of the Tiber.</p> + +<p class="text">We were all pleased with a beautiful, modern, +castellated building, erected out of the ruins of an +ancient castle, of which a single venerable tower remains +at a small distance. The name is the Castle +of Reineck. It was built for Professor Bethman +Holweg, of Bonn, and he reads his lines in pleasant +places. It must have cost much money to rear such +an edifice. Nearly opposite are the ruins of Hammerstein +Castle, where, in 1105, Henry IV. found an +asylum. We next came to Andernach. This is an +ancient city, and here you see towers and ruins +standing amidst a wide amphitheatre of basaltic +mountains. The place is spoken of by various old +historians, and under several names. The great +trade of the place is in millstones, which find their +way even to America. Here is a celebrated Roman +arched gate; but the lancet form would indicate +a later date. On our left, we came to a pleasantly-situated +town, called Neuwied, with some five +thousand inhabitants. The streets lie wide; the +houses looked bright, and very much like those in +an American town. Here is a Moravian settlement. +On our right is a cheerful little place, called Weisenthurm, +and an ancient tower stands near it. It is +said that here the Romans first made the crossing of +this river. This was the spot where General Hoch +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_264" id="Page_264" title="264"></a></span>passed in 1797; and on a height, at this village, is a +monument to celebrate Hoch's achievement. Here +we met with an enormous raft; and I assure you, +Charley, it was a sight. We had seen two or three +small ones before, but here was a monster. These +rafts come from the woods on the tributary rivers—the +Moselle, Neckar, Maine, &c. These prodigious +flotillas are bound to Dordrecht, and are there broken +up. This one looked like a town. It had at least +twenty-five huts, and some of them tolerably large +shanties; and I should think there were all of three +hundred and fifty persons upon it. On the raft were +women, children, cows, pigs, and sheep. This one +was thought to be seven hundred feet long and two +hundred wide, at the least. On our left, as we ascended +the river, we now saw Sain and Mühlhofen, +just at the point where two small rivers enter the +Rhine; and on a hill top are the ruins of a castle +of the Counts of Sain. Farther up is the quiet-looking +hamlet of Engers; and we pass the islands +of Niederwörth and Graswörth. On the former is +a ruined convent, founded in 1242, and a population +of nearly seven hundred. They seem to have a fine +old church. I very much admired the village of +Kesselhein, and I think it must be a charming spot. +Close by it is the Palace of Schönbornhest, where +the Bourbon family retreated at the revolution in the +last century. It is now sadly dilapidated. Just as +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_265" id="Page_265" title="265"></a></span>we were looking at Nuendorf, on our right, we were +all called, by a bend in the river, to gaze on the +giant rock of Ehrenbreitstein, bristling to its very +summit with fortifications. O, how it towers up, +and smiles or frowns—which you please—upon +Coblentz, sweetly reposing on the banks of the +Rhine and the Moselle! I think the view from the +deck of the steamer, up and down the river, and on +each side, is the noblest panoramic view that I have +seen. Just before us is a bridge of boats, which +connects the fortress with Coblentz; and, looking +up the Moselle, is a fine stone bridge. We had our +dinner on the deck of the boat—a good arrangement, +because we lost none of the scenery. This +dinner was about midway between Cologne and +Coblentz; and it would have amused you to have +noticed the order of the various courses—soup, +boiled beef, raw fish, ducks, roast pork, fowls, pudding, +baked fish, roast beef, and mutton. Every +thing was well cooked, and I never saw people appear +more disposed to do justice to a meal. There +was not half the hurry and indecorum that you so +often see in an American boat. One thing I observed—and +that was, that no one used the left hand +for the management of his knife. If any thing +annoys me, it is to see persons carve and eat at table +with this wretched habit. I always imagine that +they were so unhappy as to have grown up without +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_266" id="Page_266" title="266"></a></span>father or mother to watch over them. This may be +my weakness; but I cannot help it. We went to the +Trois Suisses, a fine house on the river bank, and +from our windows are looking, by moonlight, on +the glorious fortress.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">j.o.c.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_41" id="Letter_41"></a>Letter 41.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Frankfort.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">We had no more pleasant day in our excursion +than from Cologne to Coblentz. It would be +long before I grew tired of the scenery at that fine +old place. We walked about, in the evening, with +our New York friends; and, though some parts of +Coblentz are very filthy, there are some exquisite +plots in it, and all the vicinage is beautiful. We +took a pleasant stroll to the bridge which spans the +blue Moselle with fourteen arches. The city stands +on a point of land formed by the two rivers, and +hence was known to the Romans by the name of +<i>Confluentes</i>. Drusus fortified this place and Ehrenbreitstein +thirteen years before Christ. Its population +is short of twenty thousand; but there are also +four thousand five hundred Prussian troops at the +fortress. This is one of the strongest military posts +in Europe. Its fortifications have been the labor of +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_267" id="Page_267" title="267"></a></span>long years; and the works here, united with those +across the river, are deemed impregnable. I believe +Ehrenbreitstein is called the Gibraltar of Germany. +It mounts four hundred cannon, and the magazines +will contain provisions for eight thousand men for +ten years. The former Electoral Palace is now the +Government House, and presents a very noble appearance +from the river. It is either stone, or stuccoed, +with an Ionic portico; and, with its wings, is +five hundred and forty feet front. All round this +city, the heights are strongly fortified; and, look +where you may, you see means of defence.</p> + +<p class="text">We here determined upon an excursion to Stolzenfels, +which is about four miles from Coblentz, +and our party went in two carriages—the family +of Mr. B. in one, and ourselves in the other. The +ride was very pleasant along the banks of the +Rhine, and through orchards and vineyards—the +heights towering away over us all the way. We +came to the village of Capellen, which is a poor +little hamlet at the base of the lofty mountain on +which stood the noble ruins of Stolzenfels Castle, +which has been most admirably restored, and is now +the summer palace of the King of Prussia. The +ascent is very steep, but the road is admirable. +Carriages are not allowed to go up, and travellers +are supplied with donkeys, of which we found plenty +in waiting. Our party all obtained these patient +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_268" id="Page_268" title="268"></a></span>beasts of burden, and I assure you that we made a +funny cavalcade. I do think it would have amused +you to see ladies, gentlemen, and boys, all escorted +by ragged urchins, mounting the hill. The road has +been made at immense expense, and winds along in +the most romantic manner—giving you, at every +turn, the finest views and catches of the river, up +and down; while the walls are frequently at the edges +of precipices, from fifty to two hundred feet over +the ravines below. The woods were in all their +glory, and I never saw a finer day. On arriving at +the castle, we rang a bell, and the servant in livery +appeared—a fine, civil fellow he was. On entering, +we were all furnished with felt slippers, so that, +in walking through the apartments, we might not injure +the polished oak floors. This castle was the +residence of Archbishop Werner, who, at the close +of the fourteenth century, was devoted to alchemy. +The old tower is an immense affair, and still remains, +and is likely to remain for ages. The new parts of +the palace have all been restored with constant reference +to the original architectural style. We wandered +from one apartment to another, perhaps going +into twenty or thirty apartments, none of which +were very large, and many of them quite small and +cosy. We saw the bed-room of the king. Every +thing was plain, and the furniture generally made of +oak or black walnut. His study table had pen and +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_269" id="Page_269" title="269"></a></span>ink and paper upon it, just as if he had stepped out +of the room. The queen's apartments were very +elegantly plain, and her oratory is as pretty a little +thing as you can imagine. In all these apartments +are fine pictures, and one is superbly frescoed with +allegory and history. The room in which the Queen +of England and Prince Albert lodged, in 1845, was +shown us, and the state bed was still in it. The +dining hall was finely ornamented with carvings, old +armor, &c. But a room devoted to antiquities +pleased us the best of all. Here were cups, bottles, +and glass goblets of the earliest dates,—some as far +back as the twelfth and thirteenth centuries,—which +had belonged to emperors and electors whom I cannot +recollect, they were so many. On the walls +were the most precious mementoes; and here we saw +the swords of Marshal Tilly, Napoleon Bonaparte,—the +one used at Waterloo,—Blucher, and Murat, +and the knife and fork belonging to the brave +Hofer, the Tyrolese patriot, who was shot at Mantua. +From all the windows of this gem of a palace +we had the finest views of the river, and could see, +from the gateway and platform, Coblentz, Ehrenbreitstein, +and eleven different ruins of castles and +convents. Directly in front of us, on a bend of the +river, almost making a peninsula, was Lahnstein and +its ruined castle; off to its right, Braubach, and the +Castle of Marksburg and Martin's Chapel; and, on +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_270" id="Page_270" title="270"></a></span>our own side, the pretty village of Rheus, where +was once "the royal seat," and where the electors +of the Rhine used to meet, to elect or depose the +emperors of Germany. All round the castle of +Stolzenfels are the choicest flowers and shrubs; and +I wish some of my horticultural friends could have +seen the moss roses and fuchias in such luxuriance. +We were sorry to leave the place; but the steamboat +on the Rhine is as punctual as a North River +boat; and we had to resume our donkeys, descend +to the carriages, drive briskly, and were just in time +to get on board a boat bound to Mayence. In +going up the river, we saw the palace again to great +advantage; and, whatever else I forget, this locality +I shall keep in memory, I assure you. We again +looked at Lahnstein, and the ruins of St. John's +Church, built in 1100, and saw a curious ferry, from +the mouth of the Lahn over to Stolzenfels. It is +made by five or six boats anchored off, and the ferry +boat goes over, wafted by the tide. We then came +upon Bopart, an old place, but strongly fortified, and +having three or four thousand inhabitants. A gentleman +on board, who had been there, said it was +quite an interesting place. Nearly opposite we were +delighted with the ruined towers of the Brothers, as +Sternberg and Liebenstein are called. They occupy +the two summits of a rock, every inch of +whose sides is sacred to vines. The story of the +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_271" id="Page_271" title="271"></a></span>brothers who lived here you are acquainted with. +Our next point of interest was the ruin of Thurnberg, +or the Mouse; while not far above is another, +called the Cat. The view here grows more sublime, +and the river grows narrower; and we had a fine +prospect of Rheinfels and the town of St. Goar. +Rheinfels grows up from the river's edge, and is, indeed, +<i>the</i> rock of the Rhine. The fortifications were +immense, and this is the most wonderful ruin on the +river. A confederacy of German and Rhenish cities +broke up this fortress at the close of the thirteenth +century, and long afterwards it was made a modern +defence. Here the river seems pent up, almost; +and just above St. Goar there rises from the water +a lofty precipice, called the Lurley Rock. Nearly +opposite, a man lives, who, when the boat passes, +fires a pistol, and a very singular echo follows, as we +can testify. Not far above are seven rocks, seen at +low water, called the Seven Sisters. The legend +says that they were hard-hearted girls,—the Ladies +Schonberg,—who trifled with the affections of nice +young men, and so got their deserts by being turned +into stones. Still, at the right, we came to Oberwesel, +and we all thought it among the sweetest spots +of the river. Salmon are caught in nets here, from +the rocks. A bend in the river shows us Schonberg, +a fine ruin. This was the family spot whence the +Marshal Schomberg, of the Boyne, originated. Just +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_272" id="Page_272" title="272"></a></span>over the river is the noble Gutenfels. It was spared +by the French, and occupied till 1807, but is now +roofless. Caub, on the left, is the place where +Marshal Blucher crossed the river with his army, +January 1, 1814. In the centre of the river is a +castle called Pfalz, built about 1320, which was used +as a toll-house by the Duke of Nassau. I think it +has been used as a state prison. On our right lies +Bacharach, with its many towers, and the fine old +ruins of Stahleck Castle. Off this place is a large +rock, the Altar of Bacchus; and when the rock is +exposed, it is thought to be the pledge of a good +vintage. The region is celebrated for its wines; and +the grapes of the slaty rocks have a highly musky +perfume. A gentleman told me that Bacharach resembles +Jerusalem in its aspect. Of course, it must +be in miniature that the resemblance exists. Here we +noticed St. Werner's Church, a most superb ruin of +the florid Gothic. Those lancet-arched windows are +the admiration of all who pass by. Lorchausen is a +small place, and just away from it are the ruins of +the Castle of Nollingen. On the other side, or right +bank, are the ruins of the old Keep Tower of Fürstenberg, +destroyed in 1689. Here we enter on the +region where the best Rhenish wine is produced. +The Rheingau, or valley of the river, is divided into +upper and lower departments; and from about +Lorch, on the left bank, up to Biberich, are the +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_273" id="Page_273" title="273"></a></span>choicest vineyards. On our right lay the ruins of +Heimberg, and the restored Castle of Sonneck. +Then comes old Falkenberg, and near to it is the +splendid Gothic Church of St. Clement. All these +fortresses were the abodes of wholesale highwaymen, +and then might made right. Most of them became +such nuisances that, at the close of the thirteenth +century, they were hurled down, and their places +made desolate. Here, too, is Rheinstein, on the +very bank of the river. Its early owner was hanged +by the Emperor Rudolph. One of the Prussian +princes has fitted up the fortress in magnificent style; +and I learn that there is no palace in Europe that +can boast of such mediæval splendor. Every thing +that can serve to illustrate the dark ages is carefully +collected for this charming spot, which seems a rival +to Stolzenfels.</p> + +<p class="text">Just across, on the opposite bank, is Assmanshausen, +famous for hot baths and red wine. Here you +see terrace upon terrace, up to the summits of the +hills; and some of these, the guide books say, are +one thousand or twelve hundred feet. You will +often see fifteen or twenty of these terraces supported +by brick and stone fences, and the terrace is +often not more than six feet wide; and the soil and +manure have all to be carried up on the shoulders +of the vine-dressers. The value of this region-arises +from its aspect, owing to the bend of the river, +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_274" id="Page_274" title="274"></a></span>which gives <i>this left bank, as you ascend</i>, a direct exposure +to the sun at midday.</p> + +<p class="text">The vintage of the Rhine, I am told, is generally +gathered in during October and November, but it is +put off as late as possible. Grapes were introduced +here by the Romans.</p> + +<p class="text">We now came to Ehrenfels, in its venerable decay, +the beautiful tower of Rosel, and the ruins of +Bromseberg; while on our right are the ruins of +Vautsberg, and just beyond we come upon "Bingen +of the Rhine," at the mouth of the Nahe; and +close by is the celebrated Mausetherm, or Mouse +Tower, said to have been built by Hatto, the Archbishop +of Mayence, in the tenth century. Southey's +fine ballad has immortalized the legend. Never did +town present sweeter aspect than Bingen, at the foot +of a pyramidical hill, which is crowned by the ruined +Castle of Klopp. In a church here lies Bartholomew +of Holshausen, who prophesied the fatality of +the Stuarts and Charles II.'s restoration, warning +him not to restore Popery. Bingen has, I think, +some five or six thousand inhabitants, and has a great +trade in wine, which is collected here from all the +vineyards around. Rudesheim lies on the other +bank, and its famous wine comes from grapes growing +close to Ehrenfels. Next comes Geisenheim, +also famous for wine, and soon comes the renowned +village and vineyard of Johannisberg, or Mountain +<!-- <span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_275" id="Page_275" title="275"></a></span> --> +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_277" id="Page_277" title="277"></a></span> +of St. John. Here the river is wide again,—perhaps +two thousand fire hundred feet,—and we begin +to see fine meadows. This is where Prince Metternich +has his seat, where once was a priory, and various +have been its vicissitudes. In 1816, it was given +to Metternich by the Emperor of Austria. The +mountain contains only seventy-five acres, and the +choicest wine comes only from vines growing near +the castle, on the crown of the bill. The wine of +the village is very inferior to that of this estate. +The place has but few inhabitants—say five or eight +hundred. The house is white, and not very castle-like. +The grape is called the <i>Riesslingen</i>.</p> + +<p><br /></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a name="VINEYARD_ON_THE_RHINE" id="VINEYARD_ON_THE_RHINE"></a> +<a href="images/pg278.png"><img src="images/pg278_th.png" width="400" height="240" alt="VINEYARD ON THE RHINE.—Pp. 175." title="VINEYARD ON THE RHINE.—Pp. 175." /> +</a><span class="caption"><span class="smcap">Vineyard on the Rhine</span>.—Pp. 175.</span> +</div> +<p><br /></p> + +<p class="text">Here we found several islands. Erbach and Hattenheim +are both famous for vineyards, and between +them grows the famous Marcobrünner; and the +Steinberg vineyard, a fortune to the Duke of Nassau, +lies upon a slope of the hill close to the convent, +of Eberbach or Erbach. This convent was founded +in 1131, but is now a lunatic asylum. The churches +here are very fine. Opposite the shore lies Rhine +Island, and forms a noble park. Walluff, with few +inhabitants, is regarded as the commencement of the +Rheingau, or wine district, along which we had +coasted. Biberich, on the duchy of Nassau, now +comes upon our view; and the noble château of the +duke presents one of the finest mansions on the +river. Here some of our passengers left for Frank<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_278" id="Page_278" title="278"></a></span>fort, +and took the rail; but we wished to see Mayence, +and so went in the boat. The city looks +finely, and its red towers and steeples make quite a +show. This city belongs to the Duke of Hesse +Darmstadt, and is garrisoned by Austrians and Prussians, +in equal force, generally eight or ten thousand. +Exclusive of these, the population is nearly forty +thousand. We walked about, and looked at the fine +Cathedral, which was sadly shut up by houses and +shanties. It was too late to enter it. You may be +sure, Charley, that we found out the monument to +John Guttemberg, the inventor of movable types. It +is of bronze, and was designed by Thorwaldsen, and +stands in front of the Theatre, once a university. +After perambulating the town till weary, we came +to the bridge of boats, sixteen hundred and sixty-six +feet long, and which connects Mayence with Cassel, +a strongly fortified place, where the railroad depot +is located. At this bridge are several boat mills, or +tide mills, where grain is ground by the tidal action. +They look strangely, but work well. On the bridge +we met many Austrian officers in rich uniforms, +most of them young, and, I thought, very aristocratical +in their bearing. Our dinner on board the boat +was as profuse as the day before; and I must not +forget to tell you that we had an English lordling, +son of a former premier, on board, with his lady, +on their matrimonial tour. He was the worst-<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_279" id="Page_279" title="279"></a></span>mannered +young man that I have seen in Europe; +and when he had ogled the company sufficiently +with his glass, and manifested his contempt pretty +plainly, he and his betook themselves to the interior +of his carriage. He was quite young, and +may grow better behaved. We took the ears at +dark, and after riding twenty-two miles found ourselves +at Frankfort, having passed through Hochheim, +where the vineyards are so costly that the railroad +company had to pay well for the passage-way. +Here we put up at the Hotel Angleterre. Forgive +this long letter; but I could not well shorten it, and +I want you to know just what we saw.</p> + +<p class="center">Always yours,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">james.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_42" id="Letter_42"></a>Letter 42.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Strasburg.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">James's long letter gave you a pretty correct view +of our passage from Coblentz to Frankfort. You +will recollect that we went up the Rhine, which gave +us more time to look about; but I fancy that in +going down stream the shores would show to better +advantage, if possible, than in the ascent. From +Coblentz to Mayence the river is narrower than before; +and every rock more precipitous than its +neighbor, has a castle. How some of these towers +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_280" id="Page_280" title="280"></a></span>were built, or could be got at, seems a mystery. I +had no idea of the number of these robbers' nests, +for such they were. Much as I love the Hudson, +yet I cannot help saying that the Rhine is <i>the</i> river +of the world, so far as I have seen the watery highways. +Frankfort is one of the free towns of Germany, +and lies on the Maine. It has about sixty-five +thousand inhabitants, of whom seven thousand are +Jews. I like the city much, and think a residence +here would be very agreeable. Some of the modern +streets are very handsome, and the dwellings are +fine. The old part of the town is old enough. At +our hotel we found a sentinel on guard, in honor of +an Austrian general staying at the house. The +house is a capital one, like all the other great hotels +we have yet seen on the continent. We all went to +see the Römer, or Town Hall, which was built about +1425, and which is quite famous for its historical +associations. Here the German emperors were formerly +elected and inaugurated. We saw the great +hall where they were entertained and had crowned +heads for waiters. Here, on its walls, are all the +portraits of the series of emperors from Conrad I. +to Francis II., and each emperor has his motto underneath. +Some of these are quaint enough. Directly +in front of this building is the Römerberg, or +Market-place, in which the carousing incident to +coronation used to occur; and it is large enough to +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_281" id="Page_281" title="281"></a></span>accommodate a vast assembly. We rode along the +banks of the river, to see a pretty little palace belonging +to Duke Somebody, and especially to see +the grounds and hothouses. They were exquisitely +beautiful. As we were here upon a holiday of the +church, the Museum was closed, and we lost the +sight of some good pictures. We were much +pleased with a visit to the garden of Mr. Bethman, +a banker, where we saw a pretty little collection of +statuary, the gem of which is Dannecker's statue of +Ariadne. The building in which these are placed +is neat. We, of course, went to see No. 74 in the +Hersch-Graben, where Goethe was born, in 1749. +In the corner house of the Dom Platz, Luther once +dwelt We rode through the Jews' quarters; and, +of all the wretched-looking streets, I think the worst +and filthiest is that in which Baron Rothschild was +born. As we passed a Sabbath here, we attended +the English Episcopal Church, a neat building. The +service was well read by the chaplain, and an excellent +sermon was preached by a stranger. After service +I spoke to the chaplain, who was quite anxious +to hear about the prospects of Popery in America. +He seemed to have very just views of the system, +and anxiously deprecated its influence in our +Country.</p> + +<p class="text">We visited many shops, and found the richest collections +of curiosities and antiquities. Here we met +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_282" id="Page_282" title="282"></a></span>with several American friends upon their tour; and +at Frankfort we took leave of our New York friends, +whose kindness and agreeable company we had +been favored with for a few days.</p> + +<p class="text">We took the rail for Heidelberg, on our way to +Strasburg. The whole of the first few miles was +through a very flat-looking country, and our interest +was not called out till we came to Darmstadt, a fine +town, with thirty thousand inhabitants. We saw a +tall column, but could not find out its historical allusion. +This is the capital of the grand duchy of +Hesse Darmstadt. In passing through Odenwald, +we saw a tract of woody country; and off to our +left we were quite sure that the scenery must be +very beautiful. The hills in the distance form the +boundary on the eastern part of the valley of the +Rhine; and the mountain ranges are richly covered +with vineyards and castles all the way, parallel with +the railroad. This beautiful region is called the +Bergstrasse, and I am sure a week or two on these +hills would amply repay the pedestrian. It is in +these wild regions of romance that the Castle of +Rodenstein is found, some ten miles from Erbach; +and not far from it Castle Schnellert, where the +wild Jager is supposed to live, who haunts the forests +and gives spectral forewarnings of battles. Off +to our left there was a constantly shifting panoramic +view of hill top and ruins.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_283" id="Page_283" title="283"></a></span>Heidelberg is sweetly situated on the bank of the +Neckar—a beautiful river, and one that I long to +trace by its course through wood and hill. This +town is famous for its university and castle. It has +about seven hundred and fifty students. We could +only see the castle, and admire its exterior. The +college was founded in 1386, and is very distinguished +as a law school. The library is very large +and excellent. The barbarian Tilly is said to have +provided litter for his cavalry from books and MSS. +out of this then magnificent collection. The ruin +of this glorious old castle dates from 1764, when it +was burnt by lightning. It is built of red stone. +If I live, I hope to visit this place again, and make +a thorough exploration of this stupendous ruin. It +is here, in a cellar, that the largest wine butt in the +world is found, and it will contain eight hundred +hogsheads. It has long been empty, however. I +never longed to follow a river more than I do this +same Neckar—it is so clear, and all my glimpses +of it have been so filled up with quiet beauty and +wild scenery. We saw a hill, near the town, which +affords the finest view, we are told, in Germany, and +even takes in Strasburg Cathedral spire, which is +quite ninety miles off!</p> + +<p class="text">From Heidelberg we again took the cars for +Kehl, about four miles from Strasburg, a distance +of nearly ninety miles. The first-class cars are +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_284" id="Page_284" title="284"></a></span>very luxurious and reasonable; second class, excellent, +and very genteel-looking persons using them. +Lord Cowley, father of Lady Bulwer, wife of the +minister from England at Washington, was in the +cars with us, and two of his children—one a beautiful +little girl. They were going to Baden, and +were accompanied by a governess.</p> + +<p class="text">We found no more of the extraordinary beauty +that had made our morning ride so charming. +Bruchsal seemed a dull place, as seen from the station; +and Durlach had not much greater attractions. +Carlsruhe is quite a place, has some repute for its +baths, and is the capital of the grand duchy of +Baden. Off to the south of this town we saw the +skirts of the Black Forest. All around we saw a +fine growth of poplars. Passing Etlingen and Muggensturm, +we come to Rastadt—rather a pretty station, +and the town is fortified. At Oos our passengers +for Baden took a branch train, which, after +three miles' ride, brought them into the famous Baden-Baden. +We reached Kehl, which is a mere +village on the Rhine, but has seen enough of war. +Here we took an omnibus and started for Strasburg, +distant some four miles. When we reached the +French custom-house, over the river, we had quite a +searching time; and even a flask of cologne was +taxed some twenty cents. We were weary enough, +and glad to get into quarters, which we established +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_285" id="Page_285" title="285"></a></span>at the Ville de Paris, a very superior house, with excellent +rooms and elegant furniture, while the cookery +was perfect. To-morrow we have enough to +see and to do. To-night we shall retire early; but, +go where we may, we shall furnish you the promised +account of our wanderings.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">j.o.c.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_43" id="Letter_43"></a>Letter 43.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Strasburg.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">Long before we entered this city, we obtained a +fine view of its great glory, the Cathedral spire. +What an object! It does not seem as if hammer +and chisel had had any thing to do here. I can +almost fancy that this spire was thought out and +elaborated by mere intellect. It would be long ere +I grew weary of looking at this wondrous work of +man. The more you examine this edifice, the more +you are impressed with its magnificence. Let me +tell you about this same minster, as it is called. The +spire is four hundred and seventy-four feet high—one +hundred and forty feet higher than St. Paul's, and +twenty-four feet higher than the Pyramids of Egypt. +The architect was Erwin of Steinbach, and his +plans survived him. He died in 1318, when the +work was carried on by his son. The tower was +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_286" id="Page_286" title="286"></a></span>not finished till four hundred and twenty-five years +after the commencement of the building, and then +Hültz, from Cologne, came to effect the undertaking. +The tracery of this lofty pinnacle is inimitably beautiful. +We ascended the spire, and I can assure you +that the prospect amply repays the trouble. We saw +the winding, silvery Rhine, the Black Forest, and +the long line of the Vosges Mountains. I never felt +more keenly my inability to describe a place than +when I walked through this gorgeous sanctuary. +You must see it, to form an adequate idea of its +grandeur. The nave was begun in 1015, and completed +in 1275. The choir is yet older, and is +thought to belong to the times of Charlemagne. +The large rose window, over the front entrance, is +thought to be the finest specimen of stained glass +now existing. The stone pulpit of 1486 is the +grandest we have yet seen, and in better taste than +some of the carved wood pulpits in Belgium. The +columns are very massive. One of the chief attractions +in this church is the mechanical clock, which +occupies a large space at the left hand as you enter +the building. The true time to see it is at twelve +o'clock, when Death strikes the hour, the apostles all +pass before you, a large cock up above flaps his +wings and crows admirably three times, flags are +waved, and the affair ends. Here, close by, is the +architect Erwin's effigy, in stone.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_287" id="Page_287" title="287"></a></span>We next went to St. Thomas's Church, to see +the superb tomb of Marshal Saxe, which is a work +of great merit. In a vault we saw the remains of +a Count of Nassau and his daughter, who had been +coffined down for—I forget how long, but I think +more than two centuries. It was here that Guttemburg +began his experiments in printing, which he +perfected at Mayence. We made some purchases +here of embroidery, which we thought very beautiful, +and also cheap. General Kleber's tomb and +monument are in the Place d'Armes. Of course, +we did not visit Strasburg and forget that it furnishes +<i>pâté's des fois gras</i>. We obtained some +good engravings of the churches and other points +of interest, and, on a fine afternoon, took the railroad +for Basle.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">george.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_44" id="Letter_44"></a>Letter 44.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Basle.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">We took the cars from Strasburg in the afternoon +for this place. The distance is eighty-six miles; +and, owing to some twenty way stations, we were +nearly five hours on the rail; but the beauty of the +scenery reconciled us to a prolongation of the time +usually spent on such a journey. The general +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_288" id="Page_288" title="288"></a></span>route was over a flat country, with sundry bridges +over small streams; but, off to our right, we were +close to the Vosges Mountains, which kept us company +nearly every mile of the journey. I suppose +you know that Strasburg is very strongly fortified. +We saw its works to great advantage when leaving +the city by the train. We were much assisted in +our knowledge of places on the mountains by a fine +panoramic volume of engravings which we bought +at Strasburg, and which really gives a capital idea +of the entire scene of travel. I will just name the +principal places that we passed by and through, that +you may trace on the map and read about them, for +some are important towns. St. Erstein is a place of +four thousand inhabitants; Benfield is very pretty +indeed; and close by is a fine-looking town, with a +fine situation. We saw a noble spire off to our left. +Schlestadt has ten thousand inhabitants, and is fortified. +From it chimneys, we supposed it must be a +manufacturing place. The view of the Vosges here +is very imposing. They are generally with rolling +summits; and upon some eminence, jutting out, +stands a castle. The Hoher Königsberg is the +largest castle of the range, and it was destroyed +during the thirty years' war, in 1633. Here we saw +fine vineyards. Colmar looks like a very prosperous +place. Its manufactories make quite a show, +and all around we saw well-built cotton factories; +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_289" id="Page_289" title="289"></a></span>and the entire spot had a Rhode Island look. Dr. +C. turned our attention to the village of Turckheim, +about three miles off, where Marshal Turenne beat +the Imperialists in 1675. Egnisheim and its three-towered +castle is a small affair. Bolwiller is a perfect +vineyard all around, and the wines of this region +are excellent. Nothing, hardly, seems to be cultivated +but the vine. Opposite to this place is the +loftiest of the Vosges; and my panorama makes it +four thousand seven hundred feet above the sea. +Mühlhausen is a very active, busy-looking town, with +a population of nearly thirty thousand. Here the +fine cotton prints of France are fabricated. Much +of the property is owned at Basle, we were afterwards +told. This place has to obtain its cotton from +Havre and Marseilles; and even coal has to come +from a distance.</p> + +<p class="text">It was dark when we took an omnibus at the terminus; +and, after riding over an old bridge, we were +very soon established at a princely hotel known as +the Trois Rois. This house is on the banks of the +Rhine, and its windows command a very fine view. +The historical reminiscences of Basle are interesting, +and its position very commanding. Here the +Rhine is bounded by the hills of the Black Forest +and the Jura range.</p> + +<p class="text">Next morning we took a stroll to see the lay of +the land; and we found ourselves on a terrace +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_290" id="Page_290" title="290"></a></span>overlooking the Rhine, and forming a part of the +cathedral ground. O, it was glorious to look at, +Charley. There, stretched away on the other side, +were the hills of the Black Forest, whose legends +we have so often pored over. This terrace is finely-wooded +with linden and chestnut-trees. We walked +back to town, and called upon our consul, Mr. Burchardt, +and found him very kind and friendly. He +gave himself up to us for the entire day, and became +our guide to all the objects of interest. He +dined with us; and then we all went to his charming +country-house, about one and a half miles from town, +and took tea with his family. Our first object was +the Cathedral. This is a red sandstone church, with +two steeples, and was consecrated in 1019. The +crypt, no doubt, is as ancient as this date. Here is +the tomb of the empress, wife of Rudolph of Hapsburg. +Here, too, we saw the tombstone of Erasmus, +who died in 1536. In the cloisters, which are +very noble, are the monuments of Œcolampadius, +Grynæus and Myer, the reformers. This church is +Protestant. It is plain, but venerable. In the +chapter-house, which we visited, was held the +Council of Basle, which lasted from 1436 to 1444. +The room is just as it then appeared, and the very +cushions on the seats are still preserved. Our next +visit was to the Holbein Gallery, where the largest +collection of paintings by this master is to be seen. +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_291" id="Page_291" title="291"></a></span>Here we saw the fragments of the Dance of Death, +but which some say are of an earlier date than Holbein's +day. I liked his portraits better than his +other pieces. One sketch of Sir Thomas More's +family is very fine. We also saw the library, and a +large collection of Roman antiquities. The portraits +are very fine at the library; and we saw those +of Euler and Bernouilli, the mathematicians. At +the university we saw the building, and received polite +attentions from the librarian and Latin professor. +We also saw the professor of chemistry, renowned +for his discovery of gun cotton. The collection of +MSS. is very large and rich; and we had the gratification +to have in our hands the handwriting of several +letters by Melancthon, Calvin, Luther, Erasmus, +&c., &c. I think this is a good place to live in for +purposes of study. At Basle there is a large missionary +seminary; and a great many of the best missionaries +in India and Africa were educated here. +We also visited the private reading-room of a club, +and found a very good library there. On the table +were several American papers—the New York +Herald, Express, and the Boston Mercantile Journal. +After dinner we took a carriage and repaired to +St. Jacob, a quiet village, about one mile from Basle. +Here we found a neat little church, and, at the +junction of two roads, a Gothic cross, to commemorate +the famous battle of St. Jacob, in 1444, when +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_292" id="Page_292" title="292"></a></span>sixteen hundred Swiss fought the French army +under the dauphin for a whole day. The French +were over sixteen thousand strong. Only ten Swiss +escaped the slaughter. Lest you should think me at +fault upon the numbers in this battle, I would say +that I know Watteville calls the Swiss twelve hundred, +and the French thirty thousand; but I quote +from Swiss historians, who are deemed good authority. +We went into the little tavern and drank some +red wine, which goes by the name of Swiss blood. +We then ascended an eminence commanding a fine +view of the city, the river, and the Jura Mountains. +At the summit we found a church; and the parsonage +next to it looked very cosy and comfortable. The +pastor's children were running about, and were very +noble-looking boys. We learnt that while the stipend +of the pastor was very small,—as is the case +in Switzerland,—yet he was a man of wealth.</p> + +<p class="text">We were quite amused with the market day here. +Droves of country people were in the streets—the +women in country costume; and on the ground +there were vast collections of crockery, which +seemed one of the chief articles of traffic.</p> + +<p class="text">A charming drive, late in the afternoon, took us +to the consul's hospitable abode; and there, with his +lady, we had a thoroughly Yankee tea-time. In the +evening we walked back to the city, crossing the old +bridge.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">weld.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_293" id="Page_293" title="293"></a></span></p> +<h2><a name="Letter_45" id="Letter_45"></a>Letter 45.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Lausanne.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">We left Basle on a bright morning, at six o'clock, +having places in the <i>coupé</i> of the diligence for +Berne, a distance of seventy-six miles. We took +this route in order to enjoy the remarkable scenery +which marks the Moutiers Valley, which is the most +romantic in the Jura Mountain range. This journey +entirely takes the palm, for enjoyment, of any in +our tour; and I think I am more surprised and +gratified than I was on the Rhine. Certainly the +prospect was more constantly grand and awe inspiring. +We started with six horses,—three abreast,—and +jogged on, at about six miles the hour, over +as good roads as I ever travelled. They are, also, +the cleanest you ever saw. All along, at intervals, +we saw men with badges on their hats, who appeared +to have charge of the highway. Every thing on the +road is scraped up; and at every quarter of a mile, +or less, there is at the wayside an enclosure for manure, +into which every thing is turned. On all the +line of travel in Switzerland, we were struck with +the careful way in which heaps of manure are protected +by large bands of corded hay, twisted around. +Then, too, in the villages and towns we were all interested +with the enormous stone troughs for watering +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_294" id="Page_294" title="294"></a></span>cattle. Some of these appeared to me full twenty +feet long, and two or three deep. On our way from +Basle we passed the battle ground of St. Jacob; and +some way farther on we saw the battle field of +Dornach, at which place the Swiss obtained a victory +over the Austrians in 1499. A little before +reaching Tavannes we ascended a hill, and came +to a wonderful archway across the road—perhaps +natural. On it is a Roman inscription. The arch +is, I should think, nearly fifty feet high and fifteen feet +in depth. We then went on to Bienne; and a pretty-looking +place it is. We left it on our right, and our +road was very hilly, really mountainous, and the air +was sharp. As we walked for two or three miles +to help the horses, we found the wild strawberries +offered for sale very pleasant. We reached Berne +late in the evening; and the entrance to the town, +through a noble avenue of trees called the Engæ, +was very pleasant. We repaired to the Faucon, and +enjoyed the repose of a long night.</p> + +<p class="text">Berne is a large town, with a population of nearly +thirty thousand. It lies on the banks of the Aar, +which goes almost round the city. The great elevation +of the city—seventeen hundred feet above +the sea—gives it quite an appearance on approaching +it. Then the houses are all built upon arched pathways, +and they form arcades, very much like the old +city of Chester, in England. We noticed several +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_295" id="Page_295" title="295"></a></span>watch towers, evidently very ancient; and one in the +town, near our hotel, has a queer clock, which, like +that at Strasburg, is mechanical. On striking, out +comes a cock and flaps away with his wings, and +then little images appear, and bears pass by a puppet, +seated on a throne. Bears seem to be the +guardian angels of the place, and are the arms of +the town. We were very much pleased with an extensive +prospect of the Bernese Alps, from a terrace +overhanging the rapid river. I cannot tell you how +many peaks we saw covered with snow. Our panorama, +purchased here, enumerates more than a +dozen; and among these are the Wetterhorn, Stockhorn, +and Jungfrau. We greatly enjoyed a fine sunset +from this spot. The Cathedral is a noble structure, +built between 1421 and 1573, and from designs +by the son of the architect of the Cathedral at Strasburg. +Some of the work here is exceedingly fine. +The great entrance is very imposing, and has rich +sculptures. Here, too, are some beautifully-painted +windows—one describing the pope grinding the four +evangelists in a mill, out of which comes wafers, is +very curious. The organ is very fine, and the case +one of the richest in Europe. It has four rows of +keys and sixty-six stops. The font is of black granite, +and has the date of 1525, which is three years +previous to the church reformation in this canton. +It has some finely-sculptured images of the Trinity, +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_296" id="Page_296" title="296"></a></span>Virgin Mary, and St. Vincent, the patron saint of +the church. We were pointed out the communion +table, of marble, which is an immense block, and +before the reformation it was an altar at Lausanne. +There are some fine monuments, having great +antiquity.</p> + +<p class="text">In the choir we were delighted with the old prebendal +stalls, over which were figures of Christ and +his apostles, and on the opposite side prophets, all +in carved wood. One of the prophets was a capital +likeness of Luther.</p> + +<p class="text">As we were leaving this noble edifice, we met a +minister coming in; he wore a short, black gown, +and had a deep white ruff on his shoulders.</p> + +<p class="text">The library of the town embraces about forty-five +thousand volumes—and well assorted, too. +What a reproach it is to us that, excepting in +Providence, hardly any small city has what can be +called a library!</p> + +<p class="text">The Museum we could not examine. I spoke +of bears: well, the town keeps several of these +fellows at a place called the Bärengraben.</p> + +<p class="text">Much did we long to take a trip into the Bernese +Oberland, but it was not practicable; so we started +for Lausanne by diligence, a distance of fifty-six +miles, and were eleven hours on the way. We saw +much fine scenery, but nothing that would compare +with the Munster Thal or Valley of Moutiers, and +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_297" id="Page_297" title="297"></a></span>which I think would pay any lover of nature to +come from America to look at and travel through. +The places we went through were Morat, famous +for its battle in 1476; Avenches, the Roman Aventicum; +Payerne, &c. The last few miles were of +great labor in ascent; and as it was pitch dark for +some miles, I cannot tell much about what is said +to be beautiful.</p> + +<p class="text">At Lausanne we went to the Hotel Gibbon, and +a lovelier spot than the rear of this mansion eye +never rested upon. Again we were weary, and +found good beds very inviting.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours, &c.,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">james.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_46" id="Letter_46"></a>Letter 46.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Lausanne And Geneva.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">We are staying in one of the most romantic and +beautiful spots that I ever had the pleasure to visit. +The population is seventeen thousand, and on the +increase. It is the favorite resort of the English; +and no wonder, for here are displays of the glory +and of the power of the Creator rarely to be seen. +The town stands on a mount, and descends gradually +to the lake. On every side are most precipitous +ravines; and the streets are the most break-neck-looking +highways I ever saw. Putnam's Leap +would be thought nothing of at Lausanne.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_298" id="Page_298" title="298"></a></span>Our hotel overlooks Gibbon's garden, and we +saw his trees and seat. Here he composed his +eloquent work on the Roman empire. His portrait +is in the hotel dining-room. The prospect +surpasses in richness all that I had fancied. Before +us lie the Alps, with snowy tops; between us and +these is the glassy lake, and on its waters we notice +a regatta, the boats all adorned with flags and the +crews with ribbons. There are, I should think, +from fifty to seventy-five boats in sight. Up in the +Alps there is a fire in the woods; and the volume +of smoke and flashing of flame form a fine addition +to the scene.</p> + +<p class="text">The temperature of the climate is very favorable +to health; and now, in June, it reminds us of our +finest clear days at Newport.</p> + +<p class="text">On Sabbath morning we repaired to a charming +little Episcopal church, near the lake; and the walk +of a mile down hill was delightful. On both sides +of the road were fine villas, and on the left one +estate had its long wall defended by a hedge of +roses in full bloom; such a hedge is rarely to be +witnessed. We heard a prosy sermon from the old +gentleman who has officiated there for some years. +I noticed a lady and four sweet little girls who sat +in the next pew to us, and was convinced that she +was an English lady; and when we overtook her +ascending the hill, on our return, I took the liberty +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_299" id="Page_299" title="299"></a></span>to ask a question about the church. She very +politely gave me the information, and a conversation +commenced. She told me, as a stranger, what I +ought to see; and when we were leaving her, she +politely offered us an invitation to join her family +in the evening, to take a walk to the mountain +overhanging Lausanne, known as the Signal, and +from whence, in olden time, the watch-fire used to +be kindled when the cantons were called to arm for +liberty, or danger was expected. This kindness we +accepted; and when she gave me her address, I found +I had to call at the Hotel de Ville. Well, at half +past six, the lads and I repaired to the mansion, a +very venerable pile, and we found that our kind +friend was no less a personage than the wife of the +syndic, or mayor of the city. We were most kindly +received and introduced to his honor—a fine-looking, +elderly gentleman, who spoke no English; but his +family conversed generally in our language. We +sallied forth, and took a walk up, up, up,—never +will the boys forget that tramp; indeed, Charley, +it was the hardest affair I ever went through; but +after the ascent was achieved, the recompense was +ample. Such a survey of lake, shore, Alps, city, +villages, vineyards, cannot be enjoyed elsewhere. +It was very cold in these upper regions; and as we +descended, the shades of night were over us, and a +beautiful moon made its appearance. When part<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_300" id="Page_300" title="300"></a></span>ing +from our friends, they urged our joining them +at seven o'clock to visit the Cathedral, with the mayor +as our guide. I accepted the polite offer, but the +boys were frightened at the thought of another +ascent; for the minster is perched upon a cliff, and +you ascend some hundreds of steps to reach the +platform.</p> + +<p class="text">At seven we were on hand, and with the syndic +and his sweet little girl we visited the finest Gothic +pile in Switzerland, which was built in 1275, and +consecrated by Gregory X. The form is that of +the Latin cross. Formerly it had two towers; but +one was destroyed by lightning, in 1825. Here are +several fine monuments and tombs of interest; one +an effigy in mail armor of Otho of Grandeson, and +another of Pope Felix V., who resigned the papacy +and became a monk, and a very beautiful one to the +wife of Stratford Canning; the figures of which are +eight in number, and two of them are by Canova; +also the tomb of Bernard de Menthon, founder of +the St. Bernard Hospice.</p> + +<p class="text">We returned to the Hotel de Ville and took +breakfast with Madame Gadaud, for whom and her +kind family we shall long cherish grateful recollections.</p> + +<p class="text">From Lausanne we took boat for Vevay. The +port of Lausanne is the little village of Ouchy. I +ought to tell you that John Philip Kemble, the great +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_301" id="Page_301" title="301"></a></span>tragedian, is buried two miles from this place. We +found the excursion on the lake very agreeable, and +passed many pretty villages on the left shore till we +came to Vevay, a sweet little town, of five thousand +inhabitants, and is embowered in vineyards. It is +about one mile and a quarter from the foot of the +Alps. Here we had a view of the Castle of Chillon, +and Byron was on our tongues at once. My +great object in coming here was to see St Martin's +Church, for here are buried Ludlow, the regicide, +and Broughton, who read the sentence of Charles I. +Charles II. could never get the Swiss to deliver these +patriots into his hands. In the afternoon we took +another boat and went to Geneva in about five +hours, and stopped at Ouchy, Morges, Rolle, Nyon, +and Coppet. At Morges is a fine old castle, in good +condition. Nearly opposite Rolle we saw the hoary +head of Mont Blanc, towering above the giant +brotherhood of Alpine heights. We did not see +Lake Leman in a storm, and though certainly beautiful +in its adjuncts, not more so than Lake Erie. +At Coppet was the residence of Madame De Staël.</p> + +<p class="text">We reached Geneva in the evening at seven, and +went to the Hotel L'Eou. Here we were delighted +to meet again with the Rev. Dr. Murray and Dr. +Chetwood, and also to find the Rev. Mr. Chickering +and Rev. Mr. Jacobus, with his family, and other +valued friends.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_302" id="Page_302" title="302"></a></span>The approach to Geneva from the lake is very +imposing; but I was less pleased with the town itself +than I expected to be. Its position is very grand. +Its history is every thing, however. The Cathedral +Church of St. Peter is a fine specimen of the Gothic +of the eleventh century. The sounding board is the +same under which Calvin preached.</p> + +<p class="text">The population is about forty thousand, including +the suburbs, and thousands of tourists are every year +residents for a few days. We had a pleasant morning +at the Museum, where are some good pictures +and many curiosities. In the library are Calvin's +letters in MS., forty or fifty volumes of MS. sermons, +&c. This same Calvin and this old town of +Geneva have had much to do with our own blessed +country; and we feel the agency of this man and +this town in all our ten thousand joys and comforts.</p> + +<p class="text">I could not forget that here was the home of +Merle D'Aubigné, the historian of the Protestant +reformation, and that here, too, is the residence of +the learned Gaussen, the author of Theopneusty, +and of the venerable Cæsar Malan. Calling upon +this last-named gentleman, I was delighted to find +that the Evangelical Association of Geneva was in +annual session. This is the great Protestant body +with which the American Evangelical Union is in +alliance, and for whose operations our friend Dr. +Baird has awakened so lively an interest. I went +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_303" id="Page_303" title="303"></a></span>to the church where the meeting was convened, and +was introduced to Count George, a very pious +Frenchman of fortune, who resides here and devotes +himself to the cause of the Protestant religion. +He is a Baptist, but is connected with the church +which embraces several evangelical denominations. +The count presided with great ability; he is a very +elegant man, about thirty-four, I should imagine.</p> + +<p class="text">I had the pleasure to hear D'Aubigné give a +report of his visit to Great Britain. He spoke for +two hours. He is quite the orator, and had entire +command of the audience, who wept and laughed as +he proceeded. The historian is a very noticeable +man, and strongly reminded us all of President +Wayland, to whom his resemblance is very striking.</p> + +<p class="text">Dr. Murray made a few remarks on behalf of his +brethren, and we were all invited to a <i>soirée</i> at the +assembly-rooms in the evening. Perhaps two hundred +and fifty ladies and gentlemen were present. +Several addresses and prayers were made. I was +announced for an address, but came late on the list; +and having no fancy to be translated by a man at +my elbow, I quietly withdrew at the fitting time. I +was much pleased with Professor Gaussen, who is a +very accomplished gentleman. He looks about +forty-five, but told me he was very much older.</p> + +<p class="text">The clergy present at this convocation were from +various parts of France and all the Swiss cantons, +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_304" id="Page_304" title="304"></a></span>and I never saw a finer set of men in any clerical +assembly. Pastor Malan is exceedingly venerable +in his appearance. He is about sixty-eight years of +age, his hair gray, and worn long in the neck, with +a good deal of curl to it. His gait is quick, and he +has much the manner of the venerable Dr. Beecher. +This patriarch of Geneva is very cheerful, knows +every one, and has a word for every one. He told +me that he loved Americans, but that they had spoiled +his habitation by stealing two of his daughters, who, +he explained to me, were married to excellent clergymen +in the United States.</p> + +<p class="text">We met with great kindness in this city from Mr. +Delorme, a gentleman who once resided in New +York. He invited us to accompany his family +on an excursion to the summit of the Salève, +a mountain in Savoy, which is three thousand +one hundred and fifty feet above the lake. We +went in two carriages, and stopped at a village +on the mountain side, where we had cakes, coffee, +and wine. Here, in a sweet little arbor, surrounded +with roses, we gazed at Mont Blanc, and on a near +summit could very clearly trace the profile of Napoleon. +He looks "like a warrior taking his sleep." +The illusion surpasses in accuracy of expression any +thing that I know of that is similar; there are chin, +nose, eye, and the old cocked hat, while the eternal +vapor over the summit of the peak forms the +feather.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_305" id="Page_305" title="305"></a></span>We looked down in a ravine and saw the Aar +with its icy stream. The carriages went round to +meet the party, and the ascent was made. The +mountain seems to hang over Geneva, though several +miles off. We were greatly pleased with a few +good houses, in fine positions; but Savoy is not +Switzerland. Here Popery is rampant and pauperism +evident. Beggars beset our carriages, and the +people looked squalid.</p> + +<p><br /></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a name="Swiss_Cottage" id="Swiss_Cottage"></a> +<a href="images/pg307.png"><img src="images/pg307_th.png" width="400" height="357" alt="Swiss Cottage." title="Swiss Cottage." /> +</a><span class="caption">Swiss Cottage.</span> +</div> +<p><br /></p> + +<p class="text">I forgot to tell you how much we were pleased +with the cottages in Switzerland; they are quite +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_306" id="Page_306" title="306"></a></span>cheerful looking,—some very fine affairs,—but +many are not very unlike our western log-houses.</p> + +<p class="text">We returned to Geneva at about ten, and found +at our friend's house a most sumptuous repast provided +for our entertainment. I never sat down at a +more elegant supper table. Every luxury seemed +placed before us, including the richest wines of the +Rhine.</p> + +<p class="text">The Roman salad, a peculiar kind of lettuce, +which we saw in France, and here again, seemed +to us all as quite different from our ordinary kinds; +and I have at Genera obtained four or five varieties +of the seed for home cultivation.</p> + +<p class="text">While at this city we procured some good specimens +of wooden ware, Swiss cottages, &c., and the +boys bought watches, jewelry, &c., for presents.</p> + +<p class="text">We were all delighted with a little island in the +centre of a bridge which goes across the lake; it +was a favorite retreat of Rousseau, and there is a +statue to his memory.</p> + +<p class="text">Calvin's residence is still to be seen, No. 116 +Rue des Chanoins. We saw the place where +Servetus was burnt. The place and prospect were +too beautiful for such a foul desecration. But Calvin's +virtues were his own, and the faults he fell +into belonged to the influence of the age. It was +much so with those greatest and best of men, the +New England Pilgrim Fathers. I know they had +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_307" id="Page_307" title="307"></a></span>faults, but they were only spots upon the polished +mirror. God reared them up, a rare race of men, +for a rare purpose; and I do not like to hear them +abused because they were not perfect. If Laud +had come to Plymouth Rock instead of Brewster, +Bonner instead of Carver, what kind of a community +would have been established and handed down?</p> + +<p class="text">In Geneva, too, we had the pleasure to meet a +valued friend, Mr. B., from Providence, who has +been travelling extensively, and gathering up the +treasures of other cities to enrich the one of his +birth.</p> + +<p class="text">To-morrow we are off for Paris, and go by diligence +to Dijon; thence by railroad.</p> + + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">j.o.c.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_47" id="Letter_47"></a>Letter 47.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Paris.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">We started from Geneva in the diligence for +Dijon, a long drag of one hundred and twenty +miles. The weather was oppressively hot, and +certainly the roads could not well be more dusty. +We had two very gentlemanly companions, Swiss, +who were going to London to visit the exhibition. +We entered France about four miles on our way, +and came to Ferney, where Voltaire so long resided. +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_308" id="Page_308" title="308"></a></span>We passed Gex, and ascended the Jura; then to +La Vattay. The view from the mountain of the +lake and Mont Blanc, together with the Alpine +range, is never to be forgotten by one who has the +good fortune to see it. I feel that I am acquiring +new emotions and gathering up new sources of +thought in this journey, and that I cannot be a trifler +and waster away of life in such a world as that I +live in. I find in every place so much to read about, +and study over, and think upon, that I now feel as +if life itself would not be long enough to do all I +should like to effect. One thing is certain, Charley; +I cannot be indolent without feeling that, with the +motives and stimulus of this tour pressing upon me, +I shall be very guilty.</p> + +<p class="text">The scenery of this journey has set me thinking; +and so I have written rather sentimentally, but truly.</p> + +<p class="text">At St. Laurent we came to the French custom-house, +and a pretty thorough overhauling they made. +I believe the fellows hooked some of our engravings, +which they carried out of the room.</p> + +<p class="text">Still up, till we reached Morez, the Jura's greatest +elevation. The last half was travelled in the +night; so I cannot give you the line of march. We +got to Dijon about eight in the morning, and only +had time to get a hasty breakfast at the railroad +station; but we had quite a look at the city before +entering the cars for Paris.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_309" id="Page_309" title="309"></a></span>Dijon is the capital town of the old Burgundy, +and is a fine old place, with nearly thirty thousand +inhabitants. Here is a great show of churches, and +they seem built for all ages. The Cathedral is a +noble-looking edifice. We had no time to see the +old ducal palace, which has so many historical +events connected with it. We saw some beautiful +promenades, but only glanced at them. Bossuet +was born here, and St. Bernard only a mile outside +the walls, in a castle yet standing.</p> + +<p class="text">The new railroad had just been opened to Paris, +and is one hundred and ninety-six miles and a half +of most capital track. We went through Verrey, +Montbard, Nuits, Tonnerre, La Roche, Joigny, +Sens, Montereau, Fontainebleau, Melun, to Paris. +Montbard gave birth to Buffon, the naturalist. +Nuits is famous for the vintage of its own name, +Romanée, and other choice wines of Burgundy. +Near Tonnerre is the château of Coligny d'Audelot, +brother to the admiral massacred on St. Bartholomew's +night. Sens is famous for its Cathedral, +which is apparently very splendid; and here are the +vestments of Thomas à Becket, and the very altar +at which he knelt, all of which I wanted to see. +Fontainebleau is beautifully placed in the midst of a +forest. Here is a palace, and at this place Napoleon +bade farewell to the Old Guard, in 1814. +This place is celebrated for its grapes, raised in the +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_310" id="Page_310" title="310"></a></span>vicinity. Melun was known in Cæsar's time, and in +1520 was taken by Henry V., of England, and held +ten years. We reached Paris on the evening of +Saturday, and again occupied our old quarters at the +Hotel Windsor. I went off to my favorite bathing-house +at the Seine, and felt wondrously refreshed +after the heat and dust of more than three hundred +miles and two days' journeying.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">james.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_48" id="Letter_48"></a>Letter 48.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Paris.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">We have again arrived at this charming city, and +hope to pass a few pleasant days, which will be +chiefly devoted to purchases of clothing and some +of the beautiful articles which are so abundant in the +shops of this metropolis. Besides, we have some +few places to visit before we return to England. +On Sabbath day we went to the Methodist Chapel, +near the Church of the Madeleine, and heard a capital +sermon from Dr. Ritchie, the president of the +Canadian Conference. In the evening I preached. +The congregations were very good, and the preacher +of the chapel seems a very gentlemanly and pleasant +man. In the congregation I had the pleasure to +meet with our eloquent countryman and my old +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_311" id="Page_311" title="311"></a></span>friend, the Rev. James Alexander, D.D., of New +York, and I announced that he would preach on +Wednesday evening. We went into the Madeleine +and spent nearly an hour. The house is very splendid; +but it does not appear devotional, or likely to +inspire suitable feelings. I prefer the Gothic pile, +or a plainer temple. It is all painting, gilding, flowers, +and form. Here Popery shows her hand, and +outdoes every thing that she dares yet show in New +England. The music was exquisite, and the voices +of the boys very sweet. Many of the people +seemed in earnest. The priests appeared to me devoid +of interest. We went one morning to the Pantheon. +This noble church was formerly known as +St. Genevieve, and was rebuilt, in 1764, by a lottery +under the auspices of Louis XV. The portico is an +imitation of the one at Rome on its namesake, and +consists of Corinthian columns nearly sixty feet high, +and five feet in diameter. The interior form is that +of a Greek cross. Every thing here is grand and +majestically simple. Above the centre of the cross +rises a dome of great beauty, with a lantern above. +In this building are one hundred and thirty columns. +The church is three hundred and two feet by two +hundred and fifty-five. In this building are the +tombs and monuments of some of the great men +of France. Voltaire, Rousseau, Mirabeau, and Marat +were here buried, but were taken up by the +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_312" id="Page_312" title="312"></a></span>Bourbons, at the restoration. La Grange and +Lannes also rest here. Here we saw seven copies +of the famous frescoes of Angelo and Raphael, in +the Vatican, and several pieces of statuary. The +vaults extend beneath the church to a great length. +I believe this is the highest spot in Paris. On leaving +the place, I looked again at the dome, which +greatly pleased me. It is three hundred feet above +the floor of the church; and the painting, by Gros, +is very fine. I think we have seen nothing of the +kind that is so beautiful. It is principally historical; +and among the figures are Clovis, Clotilda, Charlemagne, +St. Louis, Louis XVIII., and the Duchess +d'Angoulême, with the infant Duke of Bourdeaux; +and above all these, as in heaven, are Louis XVI., Marie +Antoinette, Louis XVII., and Madame Elizabeth.</p> + +<p class="text">We were all thankful enough to find that the +Louvre is at last open. We walked there, looking +with interest at the Tuileries, which I cannot help +admiring, although some think it devoid of architectural +merit. Its wide-spread pavilions of one thousand +feet, looming up with time-darkened walls, +always please me. The palace of the Louvre is an +older edifice than the Tuileries; the newer portion +was the work of the reign of Louis XIV. The +quadrangle is very fine, and the proportions of the +entire building admirable. Our business was with +that part called the Musée Royal, and here are the +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_313" id="Page_313" title="313"></a></span>paintings and statues which have given such a renown +to Paris. You must recollect, my dear fellow, +that we cannot tell you all about these pictures, for +the gallery is nearly one third of a mile in length, +and each side is filled up with canvas, and the +rooms are lofty. There was a time when almost all +that continental Europe thought exquisite in art was +to be found here. Bonaparte levied contributions +on all the capitals he conquered, and here he deposited +his ill-gotten spoils. Once were seen in this +place the great masterpieces of Raphael, Guido, +Titian, Domenichino, Murillo, Rubens, Rembrandt, +Potter, and a host of other artists who created +beauty; but when right overcame might, these pictures +were returned to their original owners. The +catalogue we bought was a volume of five hundred +pages, and was only of statuary; and what could +we do but walk, wonder, and admire? To examine +would be a task and pleasure for three months. +The department of statuary is very large; and here +we saw surprising fragments of the Grecian and +Roman schools. The paintings by Rubens here are +numerous, but by no means as fine as those we saw +at Antwerp and in the museums of Holland. All +the great masters are here, and their works are +finely arranged. We saw some of Claude Lorraine's +that were beautiful; and some pictures that I +missed, since I was here in 1836, have been trans<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_314" id="Page_314" title="314"></a></span>ferred, +I learn, by Louis Philippe, to Versailles and +other palaces. The gallery has been thoroughly +painted and beautified; and I never saw a place +more radiant with gilding and frescoes. The ceilings +are very gorgeous.</p> + +<p class="text">We selected a fine day for an excursion to Versailles; +and, that we might have our pleasure consulted +as to sight-seeing, we preferred a private carriage +to the railroad. Versailles is about twelve +miles from Paris, and has some twenty-five or thirty +thousand inhabitants. Henry IV. used to resort +here for hunting. Louis XIII. had a lodge here for +his comfort when following the chase. Louis XIV. +turned the lodge into a palace, and began operations +in 1664. In 1681, he removed with his court to this +place. The Chapel was begun in 1699, and finished +in 1710. The Theatre was inaugurated at the marriage +of Louis XVI., in 1770. A new wing was +built by Louis XVIII. Louis Philippe made great +additions, and devoted the palace to the noble purpose +of a national depot of all that is glorious in the +history of France. What Louis Philippe did here you +may imagine, when I tell you that on the restoration +and improvement of Versailles he expended fifteen +millions of francs. Why, Charley, the stables are like +mansions, and fine ones, too. The grand court is +three hundred and eighty feet wide, and the Place +d'Armes, which leads to it, is eight hundred feet wide. +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_315" id="Page_315" title="315"></a></span>The iron railings which divide these are very richly +gilt. On either side the court are ranges of buildings +intended for the ministers of the king; and here are +sixteen colossal marble statues, which I well remember, +at the Pont de la Concorde, in Paris. They +are great names of old and modern renown. In +the centre of the court is a colossal equestrian statue +of Louis XIV. Now comes another court devoted +to royalty; and north and south are wings and pavilions, +one built by Louis XV., and the other by +Louis Philippe. Next we see the Cour de Marbre, +around which is the old palace of Louis XIII., +crowned with balustrades, vases, trophies, and statues. +South of the Cour Royale is a small court +called Cour des Princes, and divides the wing built +by Louis XVIII. from the main body of the southern +wing. The Grand Commun is a vast square edifice, +enclosing a court. It has one thousand rooms; and +when Louis XIV. lived here, three thousand people +lodged: in this building. The chapel is exceedingly +beautiful. It is in Corinthian style, and is one hundred +and forty-eight feet by seventy-five, and ninety +feet high. The front of the palace is magnificent in +the highest degree. "It presents a large projecting +mass of building, with two immense wings, and consists +of a ground floor, first floor of the Ionic style, and +attic. The wings exceed five hundred feet in length. +The central front is three hundred and twenty feet +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_316" id="Page_316" title="316"></a></span>long, and each of its retiring sides two hundred and +sixty feet. The number of windows and doors <i>of +this front</i> are three hundred and seventy-five." To +describe the paintings and statuary would require a +volume. Let me say that here on the walls is all +the history of France that conduces to her glory. +Every battle by land or sea, that she ever won, is +here; but not an allusion to her defeats. I looked +hard for Agincourt and Cressy; to say nothing of +later conflicts, but they were not to be seen. Some +of these pictures have great merit, while others are +coarsely designed and executed. The historical series +begins with the Baptism of Clovis, in 495, and comes +down to the present period, with the illustration of +about eleven hundred subjects. Then there are +about one hundred views of royal palaces, and series +as follows: Portraits of the kings of France, of +French admirals, of constables of France, and of +marshals of France, to the number of some two +hundred and fifty; of French warriors, of personages +who became celebrated in different ways, which +amount to nearly eighteen hundred; and here we +found several Americans. We noticed the likeness +of Mr. Webster, by Healy; but the canvas is too +small, and the picture has faded. It is not equal to +the noble painting by Harding, which we saw just +before we left home. These last portraits afforded +us a great treat; and here we saw fine likenesses of +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_317" id="Page_317" title="317"></a></span>the great ones of the earth. All the old pictures have +dates of death, and many of birth. The sculpture +gallery is very rich. There are more than six hundred +figures, some of them exceedingly expressive +and beautiful. I should think that more than two +hundred and fifty of the historical paintings relate +to events and persons connected with the power of +Napoleon.</p> + +<p class="text">A very conspicuous feature is the series illustrating +the conquest of Algiers. These are four in +number, and are immense as to size—I should +think thirty or forty feet in length. They are by +Horace Vernet, and are very effective. The apartments +of the palace are perfectly regal. They +quite come up to one's preconceived ideas of the +days of Louis le Grand. I looked with interest at +the door through which Marie Antoinette made her +escape, and whence she was dragged by the mob. +The chamber of Louis XIV. is just as it was in his +time. Here the grand monarch died upon that bed. +There is the balustrade which fenced off the bed of +majesty. The ceiling of this room has the noblest +painting in France. It is Jove launching his bolts +against the Titans, and was done by Paul Veronese. +Napoleon brought it from Venice. There seemed +no end to the apartments. We saw those of Madame +Maintenon, the royal confessional, and the dining-room +of Louis XIV., which was the cabinet of +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_318" id="Page_318" title="318"></a></span>Louis XVI. In this room Louis XIV. entertained +Molière when he had been ill treated or neglected by +his ministers and courtiers. "I am told that the officers +of my household do not find that you were made +to eat with them. Sit down at this table, and let them +serve us up breakfast." This was his language to +the great poet, when he had called him to his presence. +The king then helped him to a fowl's wing, +and treated him in the most gracious manner. He +knew the worth of genius. The king could make a +marshal, but he could not make a poet. All the innumerable +rooms have beautiful paintings and works +of art. One room, called the Saloon of the Crusades, +was delightfully interesting; and the great pictures +of that apartment did much to impress the +events of the holy wars upon our minds.</p> + +<p class="text">George was in ecstasies with the <i>souvenirs</i> of his +idol the emperor; and as we shall leave him for five +or six months in Paris, I expect that, in addition to +the vast amount of knowledge which he really possesses +of the history of Napoleon, he will return +home posted up with all the <i>on dits</i> of the worshippers +of the emperor.</p> + +<p class="text">The Theatre is very fine. It is quite large, and +would be admired in any capital. It was built by +Louis XV., at the instance of Madame Pompadour. +It was Used by Louis Philippe, and we saw his +seat.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_319" id="Page_319" title="319"></a></span>The gardens are world renowned; so we <i>must</i> +admire them. They did not quite come up to my +notions. The fountains, statuary, ponds, orange-trees, +are all very grand; but I cannot say that I +was as pleased as the boys were. Perhaps I was +weary; I know I was anxious. I had an old and +valued friend living in Versailles, and was unable to +ascertain her residence.</p> + +<p class="text">We went to the Grand and Petit Trianon. The +great Trianon is a palace with one story, and having +two wings. The little Trianon has two stories. +Here royalty has loved to loiter when tired of the +splendors of the stupendous palace close by. Here +are some exquisite paintings, brought by Louis Philippe +from the Louvre.</p> + +<p class="text">We repaired to a good <i>café</i> close by the palace, +had a satisfactory dinner with Mr. Hodgson and his +family, and then took our carriage for Paris.</p> + +<p class="text">Our route to Versailles was through Passy, where +our Dr. Franklin lived in 1788, at No. 40 Rue Bass. +Beranger resides in this village. It seems a favorite +resort for genius; for here have resided the Chancellor +D'Aguesseau, Boileau, Molière, and Condorcet.</p> + +<p class="text">We passed through Sèvres, where the beautiful +china is manufactured, and drove through the Park +of St. Cloud, the palace being in sight.</p> + +<p class="text">On our return, we drove leisurely through the +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_320" id="Page_320" title="320"></a></span>Bois de Boulogne. These woods afford a fine opportunity +to the Parisians for exercise, either on +horseback or in carriages, and it is to Paris what +Hyde Park is to London and the avenues are +to New York, and much pleasanter than either. +Here have been fought most of the duels which, in +other days, have been so numerous in Paris, but +which, I am glad to say, are getting into disrepute. +The boys will write you before we leave Paris.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours always,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">j.o.c.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_49" id="Letter_49"></a>Letter 49.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Paris.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">Our stay here at our present visit will be several +days longer than we expected. We have to get +clothing and various articles which can be obtained +here to more advantage than in England or at home. +We have been to some large jewelry establishments +and made selections of presents for our +absent but remembered friends. One morning we +spent very pleasantly at a celebrated depot of glass +manufactures. The display was very large, and +also brilliant, and we made some pretty selections. +The taste of the French is very great, and a large +part of this population must live by furnishing the +rest of the world with mere matters of <i>bijouterie</i>.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_321" id="Page_321" title="321"></a></span>We have had the pleasure to meet several of the +doctor's acquaintances from America; and among +others whom we have often met have been Rev. Dr. +Alexander, Rev. Dr. Ritchie, Hon. H.J. Raymond, +Mr. G.P. Putnam, Mr. Bunting, Mr. Herring, Mr. +Howard, &c. I have been much gratified in getting +acquainted with Mr. Raymond, whom I have +met several times. He is quite a young-looking +man for one who holds his important position +of speaker of the New York House of Assembly. +I should not think him to be more than twenty-six +or twenty-seven, though perhaps he is thirty. Mr. +Putnam is the author of my favorite book, "The +World's Progress,"—the book of dates,—and +one which I recommend you, Charley, always to +keep on your table, within reach, for reference.</p> + +<p class="text">If I live to return home, I have much to do that +never before appeared to me of so great importance. +I want to become thoroughly conversant +with English and French history; for, in a certain +sense, these countries embody the history of the +world. Not to know what happened before we +were born, is always to be children; and if my +journey has done me no other good, it has very +clearly shown me how little I know, and how very +much I ought to understand, and must, if I would +take my place among intelligent, well-educated men. +I am sure, too, that I have acquired on this journey +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_322" id="Page_322" title="322"></a></span>a desire to make improvement. Every where I find +the records of intellect and genius, and I cannot, +for very shame, be willing to go through life and +enjoy the means of improvement, without deriving +profit. We have met with very kind attentions +from Mr. Hector Bossange, the great bookseller, +who invited us to dinner. He is a gentleman of +great activity, and seems always engaged; and yet +I have noticed that such persons seem to have time +for every one and every thing. I have noticed this +at home, as well as abroad. Some of these men +who have so much to do, and so many persons to +see and be polite to, must work very hard at times, +or else they understand the way to get through business +in a patent method. These busy men seem to +have read every thing; and even in new books they +keep up with the times. They must do it, I guess, +by remembering our old copy, that "spare minutes +are the golden sands of life."</p> + +<p class="text">George is going to stay here for four or five +months, and the doctor is busy in finding him a +suitable home and getting him an outfit.</p> + +<p class="text">You would perhaps like to hear a little about the +Hospital des Invalides, where the old soldiers of +France bring up when past labor. It is a vast +building, and covers sixteen acres, which, however, +enclose fifteen various courts. It is governed and +managed by the senior marshal of France, a lieu +<!-- <span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_323" id="Page_323" title="323"></a></span> +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_324" id="Page_324" title="324"></a></span> --> +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_325" id="Page_325" title="325"></a></span> +tenant general, commandant of the hotel, a colonel +major, three adjutant majors, three sub-adjutant +majors, one almoner, two chaplains, one apothecary +and ten assistants, twenty-six sisters of charity, and +two hundred and sixty servants. There are about +one hundred and seventy officers, and about three +thousand fire hundred invalids in all. This is a +truly magnificent building, both architecturally considered +and in its interior arrangements. The +council chamber is very fine, and here are some +admirable portraits and the best statue of Napoleon +that is extant. The dome is very grand, but is at +present invisible, on account of the alterations going +on to complete the tomb of Napoleon. This will +be the grandest tomb, probably, in the world. The +sarcophagus is to rest on a platform, to which the +access is by steps of green marble.</p> + +<p><br /></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a name="Sarcophagus" id="Sarcophagus"></a> +<a href="images/pg326.png"><img src="images/pg326_th.png" width="400" height="196" alt="Sarcophagus at Napoleon's Tomb, and Key" title="Sarcophagus at Napoleon's Tomb, and Key" /> +</a><span class="caption">Sarcophagus at Napoleon's Tomb, and Key</span> +</div> +<p><br /></p> + +<p class="text">Here is a good library and some MSS. of the +two prime ministers, Sully and Colbert; a good +picture of Napoleon and Louis Philippe; the cannon +ball which killed Marshal Turenne, and his +equestrian statue in gold and silver.</p> + +<p class="text">My favorite stroll here is in the Garden of the +Tuileries. I am never weary of this place. Here +are the finest flowers, the best walks, the gayest +company, the prettiest children, and the densest +shade, if you please to go into it, in Paris. Then, +too, there are groups of statuary, and fountains with +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_326" id="Page_326" title="326"></a></span>lofty jet, and proud swans in the reservoirs. I +would like to have you walking in that thick forest +growth; there is no underbrush; I can see from +one side to the other. After a long walk, you come +to the noble portals, guarded by lions couchant, and +just beyond is the spot where Louis XVI. was guillotined. +I do not believe there is a nobler view in +Europe than now opens to the spectator. There +before me is the Obelisk of Luxor, which was +brought from Egypt, and now stands in the Place +de la Concorde, its history, its removal, its present +position, all serve to delight me. In itself it is a +noble object, and my eye ever rests on it with +pleasure.</p> + +<p class="text">Just think, Charley, that you are at my side: +turn round, and look at the gardens we have left. +There, see the long, low Tuileries, the palace of the +Bourbons, the home of Napoleon, the residence of +the citizen king, and now the Palace National. Off +to the right is the Seine and its long line of quays; +here is the bridge; and just across it is the Chamber +of the Assembly, with twelve Corinthian columns, +I like this building exceedingly. To our left is a +long, stately range, known as the Rue Rivoli, in +which we reside; it has an arched arcade in front; +for foot passengers, and some hundreds of columns +to support and adorn it. At this end of it are public +offices. Now turn and look at our left; and see, +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_327" id="Page_327" title="327"></a></span>a street cuts through this noble row, and at its end +you see the pride of the city, the Madeleine. There +it is, all white, and its stately columns tell of Greece. +Now, if you turn your back upon the Tuileries, +you will gaze upon the open space of the Champs +Elysées, and look down along through that splendid +avenue, and there see the finest thing in France—Bonaparte's +triumphal arch. One word about this +arch. It is the work of the emperor, who ordered +its erection in 1806, when the foundation was laid. +In 1814 it was suspended, but in 1823 it was resumed +in honor of the Duke d'Angoulême's victories +in Spain. In 1830 its original intention was +adopted, and in 1836 it was completed, and its cost +was nearly eleven millions of francs. It is a vast +arch, ninety feet high and forty-five feet wide, with +entablature and attic. Its total height is one hundred +and fifty-two feet, breadth one hundred and +thirty-seven feet, depth sixty-eight feet. On the +fronts are colossal groups, in which the figures are +eighteen feet. All these are historical, and tell of +the great man in his fields of glory. You ascend +this wonderful work of art by two hundred and +sixty steps, and get the best view of Paris. Close +by is the Hippodrome, of which some of us have +told you, I suppose, during our last visit.</p> + +<p class="text">At less than a mile from this place is the Chapel +of St. Ferdinand, built on the spot where the Duke +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_328" id="Page_328" title="328"></a></span>of Orleans died, by a fall from his carriage, in 1842. +It is a small building of stone, fifty feet long, and is +of Gothic style. Here are many interesting objects—the +marble group descriptive of the dying prince, +and at his head an angel in supplication; this angel +was the sculpture of his sister, the Princess Marie. +The painted windows are exquisite representations +of the patron saints of the royal family. Behind +the altar is the room in which the duke died, now +used as the sacristy of the chapel. Here, too, is a +picture of the death bed. I am glad that I saw +this, as the rest of the party were not able to be +there.</p> + +<p class="text">The great National Library is in the Rue Vivienne. +The building is a dark-looking affair, five +hundred and forty feet long and one hundred and +thirty feet wide. Inside is a court three hundred +feet by ninety, and that is flanked with buildings. +The library is in five sections: first, manuscripts; +second, printed books; third, engravings; fourth; +medals, &c.; fifth, marbles. Perhaps the best collection +of early printing that Europe can show is in this +place. You will be surprised when I tell you that +there are here one million five hundred thousand +works. I cannot attempt to tell you the curiosities +that are to be seen here—gems, cameos, antiques, +swords, armors, models, portraits, busts; and then, +as for autographs, why, a collector could not fail to +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_329" id="Page_329" title="329"></a></span>break the tenth commandment when he looked at +the letters of this collection in glass cases. The +engravings alone are a study for months.</p> + +<p class="text">I have to see my tailor, Mr. Woodman, who is a +capital one; and then I must go to Forr, the boot-maker, +of whom let me tell you a story. The doctor +went to be measured, when we first arrived, and +the man told him it was not necessary, as he had +his measure. "How so?" he inquired. "Why, +sir," replied the man, "I remember you fifteen +years ago, at the Hotel Windsor;" and taking +down his book, showed him his name, number of +his room, &c. This I think a pretty considerable +proof of memory, and equal to what we are told +of some of our American landlords, who are said +never to forget a face.</p> + +<p class="text">These engagements discharged, and I am ready +to pack up. We all feel sad at leaving George, +who has been a kind and amiable companion; but +we hope soon to see him again.</p> + +<p class="text">Let me tell you that we are to have a new +teacher. Dr. C. has engaged M. Oudin, a graduate +of the University of Paris, to return with us. This +gentleman is married; and we are all pleased with +him and expect, of course, to profit under his +instructions.</p> + +<p class="text">M. Oudin has taken us to see a very curious +manufactory of fruits, fishes, &c. They certainly +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_330" id="Page_330" title="330"></a></span>are lifelike. Then, too, there is a branch of this +establishment devoted to the preparation of medical +representations of disease, and the skill exhibited is +very great. Our next letter will, I fancy, be from +Old England. I feel sad at leaving France, for I do +like her capital; and then I cannot help a fear that +she has dark days not very far off. She talks of +liberty at all her corners, but she seems to have none +in her conduct of the daily press. There are too +many soldiers here to please an American. At +home we have all the blessings of government, and +do not see the machinery. We have no soldiers to +keep us moving along. I shall always think with +pleasure of our month in this city; and if I ever +come again, I have work chalked out for three +months, at least.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">james.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_50" id="Letter_50"></a>Letter 50.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London</span>.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">We had a pleasant time from Paris to Calais; +and here we determined to pass a day, and look at +a city which has been so celebrated both in the history +of France and England. We put up at Quillac's. +The population is about thirteen thousand. +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_331" id="Page_331" title="331"></a></span>The town is strongly fortified, and has very few external +attractions. The gate built by Richelieu in +1685, and delineated by Hogarth, still stands. You +know that England held this town from 1347 to +1558; and, as a result, you can find several specimens +of English Tudor architecture, especially the +Hotel de Guise. The walks upon the fortifications +are fine, and afford commanding views of the cliffs +of the south coast of England. The place generally +has some three or four thousand English, many +of whom are refugees on account of debt. At +eleven at night we went on board a French steamer +for Dover; and the <i>instant</i> that she got outside the +pier, she jumped like a mad thing. O, Charley, +that was a horrid night! We were all sick, very +sick indeed. It took us about three hours to get +over, and we were thankful to land and take refuge +for three or four hours in the quiet of our bedrooms. +At eight we took the cars for London, and +were at the Golden Cross, quietly settled down in +our old quarters, by twelve o'clock. I ought to tell +you that we hurried over in order to be here at the +great entertainment which Mr. George Peabody +gives to his excellency Abbott Lawrence and his +lady, on the evening of the 4th of July. We were +invited, and felt anxious to be there; as, in addition +to the other notable characters, "the duke" was to +be present. All that day the subject of the evening +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_332" id="Page_332" title="332"></a></span>was the great topic with Americans; and as more +than nine hundred acceptances were received to invitations +issued, it was expected that the party would +be interesting, and that many, who failed to obtain +tickets, would be disappointed. The entertainment +was given at Almack's, Willis's Room, St. James's, +and upon a scale of great magnificence. It consisted +of a concert at half past nine, a ball at eleven, +and supper at one. The idea of celebrating our +national independence in London, under the peculiar +circumstances which London presents at this moment, +was a happy one; and though some wise men +doubted the wisdom of the measure, yet the result +proved the prudence and practical good sense of its +originator; and perhaps few men possess more of +this admirable quality than Mr. Peabody. The +rooms at Almack's are very spacious, so that there +was ample space for the one thousand who proved +to be present. At one end of the room were seen +the portraits of the queen and Washington, surrounded +by the flags of England and the United +States; and around were placed busts of her +majesty, Washington, Prince Albert, Franklin, Webster, +and other celebrated men of both countries. +Each lady was presented, on her entrance, with a +fine bouquet. At half past nine the seats for the concert +were entirely filled. The <i>programme de concert</i> +was as follows:—<br /><br /></p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_333" id="Page_333" title="333"></a></span></p> + +<p><br /></p> + +<table border="0" style="width: 90%; "> + +<tr> +<td colspan="9" style="text-align: center; "><span class="smcap">Conductor</span>, SIGNOR ALARY.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="9" style="height: 1em"> </td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="9" style="text-align: center; "><em class="gesperrt">PARTE PRIMA</em>.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="9" style="height: 1em"> </td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="smcap">Glee,</td> +<td> </td> +<td colspan="7">Messrs. Lee, Geuge, Hill, Smith, and Howe.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td rowspan="2" class="smcap">Duo,</td> +<td rowspan="2"> </td> +<td rowspan="2">"Al perigli."</td> +<td rowspan="2"> </td> +<td rowspan="2" style="text-align: right;" class="brace">{</td> +<td>Signor Gardoni,</td> +<td rowspan="2" class="brace">}</td> +<td rowspan="2"> </td> +<td rowspan="2"><i>Donizetti</i>.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Signor F. Lablache,</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="smcap">Solo,</td> +<td> </td> +<td>Violin.</td> +<td> </td> +<td> </td> +<td>Signor Sivori,</td> +<td> </td> +<td> </td> +<td><i>Sivori</i>.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="smcap">Melodie,</td> +<td> </td> +<td>"Jusqu'a toi."</td> +<td> </td> +<td> </td> +<td>Signor Gardoni,</td> +<td> </td> +<td> </td> +<td><i>Schubert</i>.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="smcap">Aria,</td> +<td> </td> +<td>"Non più audrai."</td> +<td> </td> +<td> </td> +<td>Signor Lablache,</td> +<td> </td> +<td> </td> +<td><i>Mozart</i>.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="smcap">Romance,</td> +<td> </td> +<td>"Ah, mon fils."</td> +<td> </td> +<td> </td> +<td>Miss C. Hayes,</td> +<td> </td> +<td> </td> +<td><i>Meyerbeer</i>.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td rowspan="2" class="smcap">Duo,</td> +<td rowspan="2"> </td> +<td rowspan="2">"Ah t inebria nell' amplesso."</td> +<td rowspan="2"> </td> +<td rowspan="2" style="text-align: right;" class="brace">{</td> +<td>Ma'mselle Cruvelli,</td> +<td rowspan="2" class="brace">}</td> +<td rowspan="2"> </td> +<td rowspan="2"><i>Verdi</i>.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Signor Gardoni</td> +</tr> + + +<tr> +<td colspan="9" style="height: 1em"> </td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="9" style="text-align: center; "><em class="gesperrt">PARTE SECUNDA</em>.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="9" style="height: 1em"> </td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td rowspan="3" class="smcap">Trio,</td> +<td rowspan="3"> </td> +<td rowspan="3">"Qual volutta."</td> +<td rowspan="3"> </td> +<td rowspan="3" style="text-align: right;" class="brace3">{</td> +<td>Miss Hayes,</td> +<td rowspan="3" class="brace3">}</td> +<td rowspan="3"> </td> +<td rowspan="3"><i>Verdi</i>.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Signor Gardoni,</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Signor Lablache,</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="smcap">Aria,</td> +<td> </td> +<td>"Nel dolce incanto."</td> +<td> </td> +<td> </td> +<td>Mademoiselle Cruveli</td> +<td> </td> +<td> </td> +<td><i>De Beriot</i>.</td> +</tr> + + +<tr> +<td class="smcap">Solo,</td> +<td> </td> +<td>Violin.</td> +<td> </td> +<td> </td> +<td>Signor Sivori,</td> +<td> </td> +<td> </td> +<td><i>Sivori</i>.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td rowspan="2" class="smcap">Serenade,</td> +<td rowspan="2"> </td> +<td rowspan="2">"Qual Suon."</td> +<td rowspan="2"> </td> +<td rowspan="2" style="text-align: right;" class="brace">{</td> +<td>Miss C. Hayes,</td> +<td rowspan="2" class="brace">}</td> +<td rowspan="2"> </td> +<td rowspan="2"><i>Alary</i>.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Signor Gardoni,</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td rowspan="2" class="smcap">Duo,</td> +<td rowspan="2"> </td> +<td rowspan="2">"Un Segreta."</td> +<td rowspan="2"> </td> +<td rowspan="2" style="text-align: right;" class="brace">{</td> +<td>Signor Lablache,</td> +<td rowspan="2" class="brace">}</td> +<td rowspan="2"> </td> +<td rowspan="2"><i>Rossini</i>.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>F. Lablache,</td> +</tr> + + +<tr> +<td rowspan="3" class="smcap">Trio,</td> +<td rowspan="3"> </td> +<td rowspan="3">"Zitti, Zitti."</td> +<td rowspan="3"> </td> +<td rowspan="3" style="text-align: right;" class="brace3">{</td> +<td>Miss C. Hayes,</td> +<td rowspan="3" class="brace3">}</td> +<td rowspan="3"> </td> +<td rowspan="3"><i>Rossini</i>.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Signor Gardoni</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Signor Lablache</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="smcap">Piano Forte,</td> +<td> </td> +<td> </td> +<td> </td> +<td> </td> +<td>Signor Alary.</td> +<td> </td> +<td> </td> +<td> </td> +</tr> + + +</table> + +<p><br /><br /></p> + +<p class="text">The glees and madrigals were by the first-named +artists; and the pieces were, "Spring's Delight," +"Come, let us join the Roundelay," "Foresters +sound the cheerful Horn," and "The Winds whistle +cold."</p> + +<p class="text">The band for the ball was Coote & Tinney's. +The concert was very fine. I was most pleased with +Miss Hayes,—and next with Lablache, whose voice +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_334" id="Page_334" title="334"></a></span>is the finest I ever heard. The duke came just at the +close of the concert, as the seats were being removed +for the dancing. Mr. Peabody met him in the reception-room, +and led him to the upper end of the +ball-room, where he was cordially greeted by Mr. +and Mrs. Lawrence. The band struck up, "See, +the conquering hero comes," and I really felt that +such a reception to such a man, and under such circumstances, +was something for an American boy to +see; and, if I live thirty or forty years, it will be +something to tell about. There were but few comparatively +who danced. The company were in +groups, in the different rooms, taking refreshments. +At one, supper was announced on the ground +floor of the house; and here the press was felt to +be greater than up stairs. The tables were most +gorgeously laid out with every delicacy that unlimited +outlay of expense could secure. Perhaps you +would like to know some of the company who were +present, belonging to England, and who certainly +were present for the first time to celebrate the anniversary +of American independence. There were +the Duke of Wellington, Marquises of Ely and +Clanricarde, Lord Glenelg, Lord Charles Manners, +Lord Charles Russell, Lord Mayor of London and +Lady Mayoress, Viscount Canning, Lord and Lady +Dormer, Lord Hill, Lord Stuart, Baron and Lady +Alderson, the Chancellor of the Exchequer, and +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_335" id="Page_335" title="335"></a></span>Lady Mary Wood; Mr. Justice and Lady Coleridge, +the Governor of the Bank of England, Joseph +Hume, M.P., and family, Lady Morgan, Miss Burdett +Coutts, Admiral Watkins, the Countess of Eglinton, +Countess Powlett, Lady Talbot Mala hide, +and a very long <i>et cetera</i>. Mr. Peabody could not +have served his country better than by affording an +opportunity for the great and distinguished of England +to meet a large party of his countrymen on +an occasion dear to Americans, and especially dear +when they are far away from their country, and feel +that, under the broad flag of the stars and stripes +they are every where as safe as if they were in New +York or Boston. It was very clear that hostile feeling +had ceased, and that the great Anglo-Saxon +family can now meet any where and display the +brotherhood which they ought ever to feel. Such a +meeting could not have taken place twenty years +ago; and perhaps this beautiful demonstration would +never have been afforded, if the thought had not +presented itself to our host, who had the means to +carry out the idea with a nobleness that did honor to +himself and his country. We left the rooms on a +bright, starlight morning, just as day was opening +her eye, and were soon comfortably housed at our +pleasant home. I write in haste, for we have much +to do before we leave London.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">james.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_336" id="Page_336" title="336"></a></span></p> +<h2><a name="Letter_51" id="Letter_51"></a>Letter 51.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">We have had one of the most agreeable days that +I have spent in England. We received a kind invitation +from his excellency Baron Vanderweyer, the +Belgian minister, to attend a party given by his lady +to the young nobility. The invitations were for five +o'clock. We found the finest collection of children +and young people, from about four years old up to +sixteen, that I ever saw gathered together. I should +think there were two hundred and fifty. More beautiful +children cannot probably be found; and they +were dressed in fine taste, and some very richly. +One little fellow, about six years old, was, I think, the +noblest-looking boy my eyes ever rested upon. Dr. +C. inquired of two or three persons whom he knew, +who the lad was; and just then an elegant and fashionable-looking +lady expressed how much she felt +flattered by the kind things said of the little fellow, +and told him that it was her son, the eldest son of +the Marquis of O——d, and then called him out of +the dance, and introduced the little Lord Ossory to +him. Among the illustrious juveniles was the future +Duke of Wellington, and grandson of the Iron +Duke. He is now about four or five years old. I +think the sight was one of the prettiest I ever had +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_337" id="Page_337" title="337"></a></span>the pleasure to witness. A few of the parents and +older friends of the children were present; and in +the company was Mr. Bates, whose kindness to us +has been very great.</p> + +<p class="text">One evening this week Dr. Choules preached at +Craven Chapel, near Regent Street, where he had +been requested to speak about America, and he took +up Education—the voluntary principle—and Slavery. +On the last topic he gave some truths that +were probably very unpalatable. He stated that the +good people here knew next to nothing of the subject; +that its treatment amongst us could not be suffered +by strangers; and that all interference with it +by this nation was as impolitic, and in as bad taste, +as it would be for an American to visit England and +commence a crusade against the expenditures of the +royal household, as a crying sin, while there was +misery among the masses in many parts of the kingdom. +He spoke of the extreme prejudice which he +had met upon the subject, and the rudeness's into +which he had found men fall, who seemed to have +forgotten every courtesy of life. He gave them +many facts, which, though perfectly correct, yet he +said he supposed would be interpreted as a special +plea on behalf of slavery—although nothing could +be more untrue. The prejudice existing here is +amusing. They seem to take it for granted that +every American raises cotton, sugar, and tobacco, +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_338" id="Page_338" title="338"></a></span>and, therefore, is a slaveholder. However, I find +most persons of candor ready to acknowledge that +it is questionable whether any good can possibly +result from sending English agents to agitate the +slavery question in the United States.</p> + +<p class="text">There are a great many things which we have +seen in London that are less worthy of note than +those we have written you about, and yet in themselves +are very useful and interesting; and we hope +the remembrance of them will be of service to us +hereafter. I have been much struck with the prevalence +of the same names in the streets as those +which are so familiar to me on our signs and boards. +We have most clearly a common origin, and there +are no two nations in the world between whom there +is of necessity so much sympathy on all great questions.</p> + +<p class="text">We have visited the exhibition several times since +our return, with fresh pleasure on every occasion. +In point of show and splendor, we are doing little +in competition with the English, French and Belgian +exhibitors; but we have a wonderful deal here +that proves Jonathan to be a smart chap at invention, +and no slouch at labor-saving operations. We +cannot afford to spend the labor of freemen, who +own their houses and farms and gardens, upon single +pieces of furniture that would take six months to +complete. Our time is too valuable for this. The +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_339" id="Page_339" title="339"></a></span>pauper labor of Europe will, I hope, long continue +to be cheaper, than the toil of American mechanics. +I do not want to see a man working for thirty cents +a day. The people of England must laugh in their +sleeves when they see every steamer bringing out +our specie from America, and when they see us sacrificing +our true interests to aid the destructive policy +of free trade. I have never thought so much +about the tariff as since I have been here, and I am +now convinced that we ought to give suitable encouragement +to all kinds of manufactures in our +country, and so afford a regular market for the +products of the agriculturist. The English agents +that flood our country are placing the land under a +constant drain; and our specie must go abroad, instead +of circulating at home. It is only in times +of great scarcity that England will want much of +our wheat or corn; and the English very freely +avow that they hope to be able, ere long, to get +their cotton from the East. It seems to me that our +Southern States will need their New England constant +market, and that our true policy is to take care of +ourselves. Certainly there is a great variety of +opinion here about free trade, and I hear gentlemen +debate strongly against it. The reciprocity of England +is a queer thing. All this yarn, Charley, grows +naturally out of my starting-point about the exhibition.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_340" id="Page_340" title="340"></a></span>We go to-night to Bristol, to visit our kind +friends once more; thence we run into South +Wales, and afterwards set our faces homeward.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours, &c.,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">weld.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_52" id="Letter_52"></a>Letter 52.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Bristol</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">We have been here with the doctor's friends for +several days, and had a most delightful time. +Nothing can be more kind than their attentions to +us; and the young men—I wish you knew them—have +been constantly doing every thing in their +power to make our visit here agreeable.</p> + +<p class="text">We were glad to find Mr. W—— recovering +from his accident; and as the family were at Western +Super Mare, a watering-place about seven miles +off, for his health, we went and passed a couple of +days with them. This place is on the banks of the +Bristol Channel; the air is thought to be the finest +on the western coast of England, and is, we thought, +very much like our Newport air. When the tide +is in the scenery is pretty, and the Welsh hills; at +sunset are beautiful. Off in the Bristol Channel +are two islands, called the Flat and Steep Holmes.</p> + +<p class="text">The houses here are neat, and the best are lodging-houses. +Some of the rows are very pretty, +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_341" id="Page_341" title="341"></a></span>and are sufficiently cosy to accommodate small +families.</p> + +<p class="text">The true way to enjoy the seaside is to have +your own snug quarters. Here the people are wise +enough to build close to the sea, and rows of houses +are found all round the bay.</p> + +<p class="text">We had a charming ride to a lofty hill, about two +miles off, and the prospect was very fine.</p> + +<p class="text">Here, as on the continent, we found large numbers +of donkeys, with drivers, and ladies use them +in their little excursions; and many of them are +attached to Bath chairs, a small gig, and a very +comfortable conveyance, too, as we proved. The +vehicle is made for one person.</p> + +<p class="text">I cannot say much for the bathing, which is +greatly admired here, but was far too muddy for +our taste, after an acquaintance with the noble +beach at home.</p> + +<p class="text">The museum of the Baptist College in Bristol is +very fine, and the library is large and one of great +value. The collection of Bibles is the best in the +kingdom, and here is the only copy of Tindal's New +Testament. The miniature of Oliver Cromwell, by +Cooper, is valuable, and has been often engraved.</p> + +<p class="text">We have several times attended worship at a very +beautiful Gothic chapel at Bristol, called Highbury +Chapel. It is a perfect gem, built in the Gothic +style of the fifteenth century. The edifice is of +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_342" id="Page_342" title="342"></a></span>stone, the roof and wood-work of oak, the pulpit +freestone, and over it is a fine painted window. It +is one of the prettiest churches we have seen in +England; and what gives great interest to the building +is the fact that it stands upon the spot where five +martyrs were burnt, in the days of Popery, when +Queen Mary was on the throne. This burning of +Protestants only happens when Catholics have power; +they do not advocate the measure in America, although +their boast is that their system knows no +change. Inquisitions and martyrs' fires are the +adult growth of Popery. If I wanted to know +how liberal institutions worked, I would look at +them where they were established and flourished +without hinderance; and if I wanted to know what +Popery is, I would go and look at it in its proper +territories—Spain, Italy, and Austria. There Popery +is intolerant. In France the wings of Romanism +are clipped; and if the patronage of the state +were withdrawn, as very likely it may before long, +the crumbling edifice would fall.</p> + +<p class="text">The Rev. Mr. Thomas, the pastor of Highbury +Chapel, is a man of superior intellect, and we heard +a very fine sermon from him.</p> + +<p class="text">I never was in a place where there are so many +local charities as I find at Bristol. Every ailment +of man seems here to be provided with its needed +cure; and as for orphan asylums and refuges for the +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_343" id="Page_343" title="343"></a></span>aged, blind, strangers, &c., they are every where to +be found. The Infirmary is a noble institution, and +always has two hundred patients in the wards; two +thousand were received last year, and eight thousand +out-door cases received treatment. A refuge +for the houseless poor, opened in winter at eight +o'clock, and supported by subscription, has been +very useful. I think there are at least thirty different +almshouses for the aged and indigent of both +sexes; and some of these places are as neat as any +thing can be, as to their accommodation.</p> + +<p class="text">We like Bristol—its fine old houses, its streets, +that tell so plainly of other days, its beautiful environs, +and its generous citizens. I wish you could +see the prospect from the drawing-room window at +a house where we have often visited, and always +with pleasure. The house stands on a very high +hill; the drawing-room has a large bay window, and +outside a balcony. You look down into a charming +garden, with fine trees and fountains,—the ground +being on a great declivity, I should think a slope of +fifty degrees,—and then from the balcony you have +the entire city laid out before you, down, down in +the valley; while before you, and on either hand, +stretch away the hills which adorn this noble city. +The towers and steeples of the glorious old churches +make the prospect, of a fine, clear summer evening, +one never to be forgotten. Go where I may, that +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_344" id="Page_344" title="344"></a></span>room, and the kind faces of those who meet in it +will often rise in memory.</p> + +<p class="text">I have never had my feelings so enlisted by +strangers as at Bristol; and we all feel quite at +home here.</p> + +<p class="text">We are to go off to-morrow on an excursion to +Monmouthshire, and see Chepstow, Tintern Abbey, +and Ragland Castle, and expect that this last of our +wanderings will be very gratifying.</p> + +<p class="text">I have not told you how much we have enjoyed +the fruit in England and on the continent. Cherries +and strawberries have been daily on our tables, and +of the best kinds. I do not think we ever enjoyed +a fruit season so much as this summer. In this +humid climate the strawberry grows to an immense +size; and the gooseberry, which is here in high +favor, is a far finer fruit than with us.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">james.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Letter_53" id="Letter_53"></a>Letter 53.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Bristol.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">Let me tell you of a charming trip which we +have had this week to Chepstow Castle and its +neighborhood. We have told you all about the +beautiful scenery of Clifton, and the Hot Wells at +this place, and the fine old rooks. Well, now we +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_345" id="Page_345" title="345"></a></span>took passage in a little steamer, and went down the +Avon between these lofty rocks, and had a new and +enlarged view of this wondrous formation. The +boat was well filled with tourists, as this is a fashionable +trip. The Avon for four miles is quite +Rhenish in its aspect; and one or two old castled +towers on its crags afford a sort of reminiscence of +what we lately saw on the river of rivers.</p> + +<p class="text">We soon got out of the Avon into King Road, +and there met the tide setting strongly from the +Severn—a large river, which divides Monmouthshire +from Gloucestershire. We then stretched across +the estuary, and were in the Wye—one of the most +romantic rivers in the country, the scenery of which +will occupy much of this letter.</p> + +<p class="text">After going up the river a little way, we saw a +town upon the left bank and a noble castle. This +is Chepstow. It is finely ensconced in a hollow. +The town is irregular, and depends for its prosperity +on its commerce. The castle is really a noble ruin +and crowns a high bluff which rises from the river. +I do not know how any one can ask for a lovelier +landscape than is opened to the view off the bridge +which spans the river.</p> + +<p class="text">The castle was built by a relation of William the +Conqueror. Its style is Norman, with more modern +additions. The tide rises here to an elevation of +from fifty to sixty feet. This is owing to rooks +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_346" id="Page_346" title="346"></a></span>which stretch into the Severn near the mouth of the +Wye, and, by hindering the tide, turn it into this +small river.</p> + +<p class="text">On landing, we engaged a carriage and pair of +horses for the excursion, and were soon off. We +stopped for lunch at St. Arvan's, a village one mile off, +and a beautiful place it is—a perfect gem of a country +street. But the glorious scenery of the region +calls off attention from the modest hamlet. How I +should like, as in my boyish days, to make head-quarters +here for a week, and then strike out for +daily explorations.</p> + +<p class="text">We passed by the fine mansion at Piercefield, +and devoted our time to the glorious points of natural +scenery on the banks of this most charming +stream—for Americans can hardly call it a river. +We walked now about two miles through an oak +wood, in which is a sprinkling of ash and elm, till +we came to the very edge of a cliff called the +"Lover's Leap." It overhangs an awful abyss, the +depth of which is softened down by the woods +which cover the neighboring rooks. A little off +from this we came to the famous Wynd Cliff. Its +summit is fringed with wood, and covers its declivities +down to the river. To describe the scenery, +my dear boy, from this spot, is quite beyond my +ability. I wish that Sir Walter Scott had attempted +it, and made this region the scene of one of his +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_347" id="Page_347" title="347"></a></span>beautiful creations. From this spot you see all the +course of the Wye, with its numerous sinuosities—in +one place cutting out a few acres into a horse-shoe +peninsula. As the eye follows down the river, +you gaze on perpendicular, rocky cliffs, and can +hardly persuade yourself that you do not look at +the immense fortifications of a town. But that +peaceful little peninsula at my feet; it is called +Llanicut. Such a farm! such elms! all forming a +landscape unrivalled. But look beyond the Wye, +and, just away there, is the noble Severn. Ay, that +is a river. There it rolls and foams down through +the rich county of Gloucestershire, and empties into +the Bristol Channel. Then away, beyond to the +right are the bold, swelling hills of Somersetshire. +I cannot but wish that Claude had seen the Wye +and Severn; the noblest of his pictures would have +been illustrative of this region.</p> + +<p class="text">When we had sufficiently delighted ourselves with +the far-spread scene, we descended by a winding +path through the woods and down the almost perpendicular +rock. The road was a very zigzag. +We came down three hundred and sixty steps, and, +passing a rustic bridge, entered a moss cottage, the +small windows of painted glass, the table the base +of a mighty oak, sawn off and polished. The walls +are lined with moss. Here we got refreshments, +and talked of those who had been here with us on +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_348" id="Page_348" title="348"></a></span>former visits—some in America, others farther off; +and yet perhaps not; for we know not how, or +where, some of our best friends exist; but we know +and feel that they do greatly live.</p> + +<p class="text">In approaching Tintern, we passed the iron works, +which at night throw a solemn glow over the entire +village. The cottages around are very humble residences. +The inn is a small but cosy affair, and is +not destitute of much real comfort. There is the +abbey at the water side, and opposite the rocky hill +bank and hanging wood. The access to the abbey +is poor, but this is quite forgotten as you enter this +glorious sanctuary of other days. There are few +ancient edifices in Great Britain, now in ruins, which +attract so much attention from the curious traveller +as Tintern Abbey, on the Wye.</p> + +<p class="text">The beauty of the river is proverbial, yet has +never been adequately described; but the best idea +of its diversified charms may be gathered from +"Gilpin's Picturesque Scenery and Observations +upon the Wye."</p> + +<p class="text">Tintern was a Cistercian abbey, and was founded +in 1131, by Walter de Clare, and dedicated to St. +Mary on its completion in 1287. The dress of the +Cistercians was a white cassock, with a narrow +scapulary, and over that a black gown, when they +went abroad, but a white one when they went to +church. They were called white monks, from the +color of their habit.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_349" id="Page_349" title="349"></a></span>The dimensions of this church are as follows: +length, two hundred and twenty-eight feet, and the +transept one hundred and fifty feet long; breadth +of the aisles, each eighteen feet. There are in the +sides ten arches; between each column fifteen feet, +which is the span of the arches.</p> + +<p class="text">The interior of this monastery presents the best +specimen of Gothic architecture in England. The +east window is a most magnificent affair, sixty-four +feet high, and calls forth universal admiration. The +very insignificant doorway was, no question, intended +by the architect to form a strong contrast with the +elevation of the roof. The abbey is cruciform; its +ruins are perfect as to the grand outline; and I am +sure we should like to pass the entire day within +this venerable fane. The walls of the tower are +seventy-two feet high, and covered with ivy, moss, +and lichens, but show no indications of decay.</p> + +<p class="text">Very few Americans visit this region; but I think +that they can see nothing in England at all comparable +to this ruin.</p> + +<p class="text">Among the relics that are to be seen here is the +effigy of a knight in chain mail, the remains of a +virgin and child, and the head of a shaven friar. +Here, too, are several monkish tombstones.</p> + +<p class="text">We were obliged to resume our places in the +carriage, and ride some twelve miles, in order to +visit the finest baronial ruins in the kingdom. We +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_350" id="Page_350" title="350"></a></span>reached the quiet little village of Ragland, and, putting +up our horses, gave orders for dinner, and then +repaired to the castle, which we found near by, +crowning a slight eminence with its stately towers. +We approached through a grove of truly venerable +oaks and elms, and all at once we were at the +warder's gate; and entering into the terrace, formerly +the eastern court, a most splendid vision burst +upon our sight. Here are three pentagonal towers, +with machicolated battlements, and showing all the +marks of war. This is the most perfect part of the +ruin, and seems likely to stand for ages. The ivy +clusters over the towers most gracefully. Off to the +left, insulated by a moat, stands the remains of a +tower, once the citadel. We advance through the +Gothic portal into the second court, and here are +shafts and arches, and grooves through which the +portcullis used to present itself to the besiegers. +Next is the paved court, where once were the men +at arms with iron tread; now a velvet lawn is seen, +and many a vigorous tree is spreading its roots. +Here we get a fine view of the majestic window of +the hall of state. Through an arch is the way to +the kitchen. The fireplace has a span of thirteen +feet, and is made of two stones. Then we come to +the baron's hall, of noble dimensions. On the walls +are the stone sculptured arms of the Marquis of +Worcester. The chapel was a narrow room; and, +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_351" id="Page_351" title="351"></a></span>nearly concealed by ivy, are two effigies. The +south-west tower contained the apartments occupied +by Charles I. after the battle of Naseby, in +1645. The grand terrace is in tolerable order, and +you proceed to it by a bridge. We ascended the +towers and gazed on majesty in ruins. We saw +nothing on the continent finer than Ragland Castle. +The prospect from the great tower is the finest that +can be imagined, and I almost fear to tell you its +extent.</p> + +<p class="text">You may imagine that we felt unusually interested +at this place, from the fact that here the Marquis +of Worcester invented the steam engine.</p> + +<p class="text">The castle was devastated by the parliamentary +troops under Fairfax, having surrendered in 1646. +The defence was gallant, but unavailing.</p> + +<p class="text">The warder of the castle is a very gentlemanly +man. He took us into his apartments in one of the +towers, and we found that he was a very respectable +amateur in painting. Some of his oil paintings +were very creditable. An infant girl, of great +beauty, his daughter, answered to the name of +Blanche Castle May, and was the first-born child +under that roof since its desolation.</p> + +<p class="text">Here, as well as at Tintern Abbey, I obtained ivy +roots for Mr. Hall, and hope to see them flourishing +on the walls of his beautiful stone house in Rhode +Island.</p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_352" id="Page_352" title="352"></a></span>We retired slowly from this romantic ruin, and +at the hotel found an excellent dinner. One dish +was fit for a king—sewen, young salmon, or a +species of salmon, for there is much dispute among +naturalists as to the identity of these fish. Any +how, they are fine beyond any fish. They were +about two and a quarter pounds each, and are so +delicate that they do not well bear transportation.</p> + +<p class="text">We returned to Chepstow that evening, having a +fine ride through a new piece of scenery, and were +quite ready for a sound night's rest. In the morning +we looked at the castle in Chepstow, which is +remarkably fine, and is of extreme antiquity; some +of the arches of the castle chapel indicating clearly +a Saxon origin. One of the priestly legends is that +this chapel was built by Longinus, a Jew, and father +of the soldier who pierced the side of Christ. This +was the belief of the ancient population of this +charming region.</p> + +<p class="text">All around this town Roman coins are frequently +turned up; and I obtained from a gentleman a very +well-preserved Cæsar silver coin, dug up a day or +two before.</p> + +<p class="text">This castle was for more than twenty years the +prison home of Henry Marten, one of the regicides. +He is buried in the parish church, and in +the north transept is the following acrostical epitaph +which he composed for his monument:—</p> + +<p><br /></p> +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_353" id="Page_353" title="353"></a></span></p> +<h4>Here, September 9, 1680,</h4> + +<p class="center"> +<br /> +was buried<br /> +<br /> +A <span class="smcap">true-born englishman</span>,<br /> +<br /></p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i4">Who in Berkshire was well known<br /></span> +<span class="i4">To love his country's freedom 'bove his own;<br /></span> +<span class="i4">But being immured full twenty year,<br /></span> +<span class="i4">Had time to write, as doth appear.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p> +<br /> +</p> + +<h4>HIS EPITAPH.</h4> + + + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i4">Here or elsewhere (all's one to you, to me)<br /></span> +<span class="i4">Earth, air, or water gripes my ghostly dust<br /></span> +<span class="i4">None know how soon to be by fire set free;<br /></span> +<span class="i4">Reader, if you an old-tried rule will trust,<br /></span> +<span class="i4">you will gladly do and suffer what you must.<br /></span> +<br /> +<span class="i4">My time was spent in serving you, and you,<br /></span> +<span class="i4">And death's my pay, it seems, and welcome, too;<br /></span> +<span class="i4">Revenge destroying but itself, while I<br /></span> +<span class="i4">To birds of prey leave my old cage, and fly;<br /></span> +<span class="i4">Examples preach t' the eye; care then, (mine says,)<br /></span> +<span class="i4">Not how you end, but how you spend your days.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p> +<br /> +</p> + +<p class="text">Colonel Henry Marten was one of the noble +assertors of English liberty who dared to oppose a +weak, but cruel and capricious tyrant. If ever a +monarch was a tyrant and despot, it was the first +Charles. No American citizen who thinks that +Patrick Henry, Samuel Adams, John Hancock, +Thomas Jefferson, John Adams, and George Washington +were praiseworthy for the resistance which +they offered to the aggressions of George III., can +for one moment fail to reverence Eliot, Hampden, +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_354" id="Page_354" title="354"></a></span>Marten, Whalley, Ludlow, Pym, and Cromwell for +their noble opposition to Charles and his tormentor +general, that incarnation of sanctimonious cruelty, +Archbishop Laud. It is one of the signs that a +"good time is coming" that public opinion in England, +as well as in America, is fast setting in favor +of Cromwell and his noble coadjutors. They opposed +measures rather than men; and what proves +that they were right in expelling the Stuarts from +power is the fact that when, by infatuation, "the +fated race" was restored, and again played over +former pranks, the people had to oust the family in +1688, and thus by another national verdict confirm +the wisdom and patriotism of the men who had +formerly dared to teach a tyrant the rights of +freemen. Marten was a noble spirit, but his morals +were not as correct as those of his political associates.</p> + +<p class="text">The game now played by the advocates of high +church and state notions in England and America is +to represent the republican party as illiterate and +narrow minded. A viler falsehood was never sworn +to at the Old Bailey. The leading men of the +party who opposed the royal tyrant were scholars, +and ripe ones. If any man doubts it, let him read +their speeches, peruse their lives, and study their +writings. Prynne did not lose his acquirements nor +his brains when Charles and Laud cropped his ears, +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_355" id="Page_355" title="355"></a></span>and, loving the sport, came back for a second +harvest, and "grubbed out the stumps" remaining +from the first operation. Read his folios, quartoes, +and octavoes, and from one of these men estimate +the others. If you want to know the real character +of Cromwell and his party, as to their knowledge +and love of good letters, look at the patronage +which the government gave to learning. Owen was +chancellor of Oxford, Milton and Thurlow were +secretaries, and their friends were called into public +life. Were these men barbarians and enemies to +learning? The men who were educated at Oxford +and Cambridge at this period were the ornaments +of learning and religion for the next forty years. +The day has gone by forever when Cromwell's +name can be used as synonymous with fraud, ignorance, +and hypocrisy. Kings and prelates may hate +him, but a liberty-loving world will enshrine his character +in the sanctuary of grateful hearts and faithful +memories.</p> + +<p class="text">After crossing the Severn at the old Passage, or +Aust, where it is two miles wide, we took carriage +to Bristol. This parish of Aust gave a church living +to the immortal Wickliffe, who received the +appointment from Edward III.</p> + +<p class="text">The drive to the city was a rich enjoyment. +Every acre is in the highest cultivation, and the +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_356" id="Page_356" title="356"></a></span>charming villas of the merchant princes of Bristol +make the eleven miles an entire garden scene.</p> + +<p class="text">Four miles from the city we came to Henbury, +regarded by the citizens as their finest suburban +spot. It is indeed beautiful. There are here about +a dozen exquisite cottages, built in 1811, by Mr. +Harford, who lives in Blaize Castle. The founder's +object was purely benevolent—to provide a comfortable +asylum for aged females, who had income +enough to support them, if only relieved from house +rent. The forms of these cottages are all different, +but they were the earliest specimens in our times +of the adoption of the old Elizabethan style. +They are perfect <i>bijoux</i>, and the taste displayed in +the shrubberies is very great.</p> + +<p class="text">Blaize Castle is a fine building, and surrounded +by noble woods. The castle is a circle, flanked +With three round towers.</p> + +<p class="text">I ought not to omit that we had on this trip the +pleasure of being accompanied by a gentleman +from Bristol, whose taste and perfect knowledge +of the ground afforded us much gratification. I +allude, to Mr. Dix, author of "Pen and Ink +Sketches," which formerly appeared in the Boston +Atlas. Mr. Dix was with us at Windsor Castle, +and when he heard from Weld French or George +Vanderbilt that Robinson's birthday would occur +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_357" id="Page_357" title="357"></a></span>shortly, he noted it, and sent James the following +pretty lines, which reached him May 15th, in +Paris. I think you will be pleased with them.</p> + + +<p class="center">TO JAMES A. ROBINSON.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">When wandering neath old Windsor's towers<br /></span> +<span class="i0">We laughed away the sunny hours,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">You asked me for a simple rhyme;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">So now accept this birthday chime.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">No poet I—the "gift divine"<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Ne'er was, and never will be, mine;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But take these couplets, which impart<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The anxious wishes of my heart,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">In place of more aspiring lay,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To greet you on your natal day.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Boy of that country of the brave,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Beyond the Atlantic's western wave,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I, dweller in the motherland,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">A welcome give with heart and hand;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And on your birthday breathe a prayer<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That you may every blessing share;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That your world journey may be blest<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With all that may prepare you best<br /></span> +<span class="i0">For the approaching eve of age—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The end of mortal pilgrimage.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Upon your brow of youthful bloom<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I would not cast a shade of gloom;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Yet did I say that life will ever<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Flow onward like a placid river,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With only sunshine on its breast,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That ne'er 'twill be by storms distressed,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I should but flatter to deceive,<br /></span><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_358" id="Page_358" title="358"></a></span> +<span class="i0">And but a web of falsehood weave.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Yet, checkered though life's path may seem,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Life's pleasures are not <i>all</i> a dream.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">What shall I wish you? I would fain<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That earthly greatness you may gain;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But if that guerdon is not sent,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Be with some humble lot content;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And let this truth be understood—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Few can be great, <i>all may</i> be good.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Power, pomp, ambition, envy, pride,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Wrecked barks adown life's stream may glide,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Ruined by some fierce passion throe,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">E'er, reckless, o'er Time's brink they go;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But if fair virtue grasps the helm,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Nor storm nor wave can overwhelm.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">That many happy years be yours:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Seek truth which every good insures;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Press on, though clouds may intervene<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And for a moment veil the scene.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Think of the great ones of your land,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And, like them, strive with heart and hand<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To leave a name, when you depart,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Which shall be dear to many a heart.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Determine in life's early morn<br /></span> +<span class="i0">All good to prize, all ill to scorn,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And aim to live and die as one<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Worthy the land of Washington!<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">j.o.c.</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_359" id="Page_359" title="359"></a></span></p> +<h2><a name="Letter_54" id="Letter_54"></a>Letter 54.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Liverpool.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">Well, this looks like the back track; and here +we are at the Adelphi, ready to take our passage in +the noble Atlantic, which is as good as new again, +and will sail on the twenty-third. We left Bristol +with much regret, for we there have formed acquaintances +which we shall often remember with +affection and gratitude; and I wish we could meet +them in America, and have an opportunity to reciprocate +some of the many kindnesses we met with at +their hands. We took the railroad for Cheltenham, +and passed through some charming country before +we reached the old city of Gloucester. On our left +were the flint towers of Berkeley Castle, where +the second Edward was so savagely murdered by his +wife's command.</p> + +<p class="text">Cheltenham is about forty miles from the city of +Bristol, and we found it all that Dr. C. had described +it—a very nice modern town indeed. It is like our +Saratoga, but much more beautiful. The population +is about thirty thousand, and the strangers who resort +there in the season are probably five thousand +more. The waters are in high repute, and are +regarded as strongly cathartic. The buildings are +very fine, and the entire air of the place is unlike +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_360" id="Page_360" title="360"></a></span>any thing we have seen in England. Other places +seem old. This is new, and looks fresh and American +in that respect, but vastly more elegant and permanent +than our towns usually are. We had very +kind attentions here from the Rev. Mr. Gilby, the +rector of the parish church, and who strongly urged +us to stay over the day; but we resumed the cars, +got to Birmingham at ten o'clock, and went to our +old quarters at the Hen and Chickens. The next +day we devoted to the survey of this vast toy shop. +Our greatest gratification was at the royal <i>papier +maché</i> and japan works of Jennens & Bettridge. +To this firm we had introductions, and we went +through every department of the establishment. +When we came to the show-rooms we were all +tempted by the beauty of the finished wares, and +made several purchases. Here, too, are other manufactories +for pins and pens; but I must pass them +by. We called on the Rev. John Angell James, +who has lived here so long, and made a world-wide +reputation. He looks very hearty and vigorous, and +shows no signs of age. He has lived in his house +forty-five years. We obtained his autograph. We +also called on Rev. Mr. Swan, an old friend of the +doctor in early days, and had a pleasant chat. Mr. +Swan was once a professor in the college at Serampore, +in India. He is full of life and animation; +and it seems to me that people here are more viva<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_361" id="Page_361" title="361"></a></span>cious +and sprightly than with us—old folks and +middle-aged ones certainly are. We took dinner +with Mr. Vanwart, brother-in-law to Washington +Irving, and shall not soon forget the elegant hospitality +of his mansion. He resides about two miles +from the town; and his lawn gave us a fine view of +the English thrush and blackbird, of which birds +there were plenty on the grass. It was so cold that +we had to have fires, although the 19th of July. +Mr. Vanwart was one of the saved, when the Atlantic +was lost in the Sound, November 26, 1846; +and he made the kindest inquiries after you and +the family, and said that when he next visited +America he should find you out. That evening +we reached Liverpool, and had a quiet Sabbath, but +a very stormy one. It rained harder than any day +since we have been abroad. We attended church in +the morning, and heard a very eloquent sermon from +Mr. Birrel, and Dr. C. preached for him at night. +The Europa arrived on this day, and we met friends +from Boston—among others the Rev. Dr. Peck. +On Monday we went to Chester, the finest old city +in England, with a population of twenty-four thousand. +It claims an antiquity equal to any city in the +world; for they say it was founded by the grandson +of Japhet, two hundred and forty years after the +flood! Any how, it was great in Roman days—great +in the days of Alfred. No town in the country +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_362" id="Page_362" title="362"></a></span>has a more thorough history; and we have two very +interesting octavoes filled with it, and richly illustrated +with antique engravings. It is a walled city, and +has undergone many sieges and blockades. The +castle has great celebrity, and is of Norman origin. +Its walls are one mile and three fourths in length, +and there are four great gates. The bridge over the +Dee has seven arches, and is as old as the Norman +conquest. The cathedral was built in the days of +Henry VII. and Henry VIII. It is composed of red +stone, and has a fine front. The chapter-house in +the cloisters is universally admired by antiquarians. +We went into one very old church, which was undergoing +restoration. The town, like Berne, has +rows in front of the houses, supported by pillars so +that, in shopping, you walk under covered galleries.</p> + +<p class="text">We returned to Liverpool, and dined with a gentleman +who has been very polite to us—Mr. Thomas +Davies, a celebrated maker of gold watches. From +him I obtained one, preferring an English to a Swiss +timepiece. Here we saw the cultivation of plants +in the house in greater perfection than I recollect +elsewhere.</p> + +<p class="text">To-morrow we are to take our departure; and, +though very glad to return home, yet I feel sorry at +leaving a country where there is so much that is excellent +and noble and beautiful. I have learnt, certainly, +that England and America have too much in +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_363" id="Page_363" title="363"></a></span>common to justify the indulgence of hatred and +prejudice; and I find the tone of feeling here, +among wise and-good people, very kind towards +America. I have rarely heard a reflection upon our +country, excepting upon our slavery. That they +<i>must talk</i> about; and they are a little like the man +who, having just got rid of the irritable affection +supposed to trouble the North Britons, could not +for his life help speaking of sulphur. An Englishman +is sure to tell you that he is free from this +sin—yes, washed, but scarcely dry.</p> + +<p class="text">Our hotel is filling up with Americans, and, we +expect to meet many friends on board the Atlantic. +I am much pleased with the appearance of Captain +West; he looks every inch an admiral. And now, +my dear fellow, I shall see you, perhaps, before you +read my letter; but I have kept my promise to tell +you what we saw and did. Of course many things +will occur to our memories when we get home, and +will furnish matter for chitchat which I hope soon +to have with you, as in days of old. Well, you are +now at the business of life, and I am yet a little +longer to spend my time in preparation for it. I +wonder how we shall come out, Charley? But time +will tell, and let us do our best.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">weld.</span></p> + +<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_364" id="Page_364" title="364"></a></span>P.S. I must not forget to tell you that, while +at Bristol, the doctor and I ran up to Windsor to +see the royal agricultural exhibition, held this year +in the Home Park. James stopped with our friends, +and we were anxious to see the great show of England +in her farming interest. The display was very +great, and the cattle were wonderfully fine in all +the departments—Durham, Hereford, Devons, and +Channel Island. The last are very nice animals for +a paddock, and give good milk. The horses were +good; and I longed to bring home one or two that +I saw, and felt strongly tempted. But the sheep +and swine were the most remarkable things there. +Really, we know little about sheep. They are monstrous, +and yet very symmetrical and beautiful; +whilst there are pigs, strange as you may think it, +that have established high claims to beauty and perfection. +I greatly preferred the Sussex breed to +any other. Never was a town so crowded as this +same Windsor. Thousands upon thousands were +flocking into it; and how and where they fed I +cannot divine. Money seemed useless, and waiters +hardly looked at half crowns for retaining fees.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_365" id="Page_365" title="365"></a></span></p> +<h2><a name="Letter_55" id="Letter_55"></a>Letter 55.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">New York</span>, August 3,1851.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p> + +<p class="text">We are, through the goodness of Providence, +safely returned. We had a good voyage, in a capital +ship, and under the charge of as good a captain as +ever sailed the ocean. Our passengers were about +one hundred and thirty in number, and very agreeable—some +few were our old voyagers in the Arctic. +With an exception or two, our way was as pleasant +as it could have been; and there were some cheerful +spirits that knew how to create sunshine at all +hours. I cannot tell what travellers can desire in a +steamer which they will not find in the Collins line. +It seems to us that we have had the full worth of +the money paid for passage. How different it is to +come to New York in ten days, instead of being on +the ocean for sixty-four days, as I have in a sailing +packet! Well, this saving of time and feelings is +worth the difference of the passage price. I am at +a loss to understand how Americans who have to +cross the ocean should think of supporting the English +steamers in preference to our own superior +ships. The influence of every English agent, of +course, goes out in behalf of the old line; and all +sorts of stories are told about winter passages, the +importance of boats especially built for strength, and +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_366" id="Page_366" title="366"></a></span>the advantages of experience. Now, the history of +the American line is a perfect refutation of all this +twaddle. The truth is, that all voyaging is connected +with exposedness to some danger; and up +to this moment the Americans have had, in all their +ocean steam voyages, the full measure of success. +They have lost no boat, they have sacrificed no +lives, and they present a fleet of steamships the like +of which the world cannot equal. Whenever an +American citizen takes his passage in a foreign +steamer, and an American one is at hand, he tacitly +confesses the superiority of other lands, in ocean +navigation, to his own country, and he contributes +his full share to depress American enterprise, and aids +so far as he can to insure its failure. The eyes of the +English nation are upon our ships; and if we desire +the spread of our national fame, we should, every man +of us, labor to sustain our own steamers and propellers. +And the government of our country should +strenuously guard the interests of this available arm +of national defence; and the country at large, would +certainly sustain Congress in liberal support of this +truly American enterprise.</p> + +<p class="text">Perhaps, Charley, you are ready to say to us, +"Well, what do you think, after all you have been +seeing in other lands?". I reply: We think that we +return home with all our hearts more warmly attached +to our beloved land than when we left her +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_367" id="Page_367" title="367"></a></span>shores. We have seen lands, as fair, and fields as +fertile, as our own. We have seen monarchies and +republics; but nowhere have we seen man as +erect and self-respecting as at home. Here we +have equal laws, civil and religious liberty, no +bishop to intimidate a day laborer who prefers to +pass by his cathedral gates and worship his Maker +in a humbler temple. Here our streets are not +labelled with "<i>Liberté, Egalité, Fraternité</i>," but the +things signified are <i>known</i> and <i>felt</i> by every man +that traverses these avenues of business. Here we +have not thousands of armed men in this great city +to preserve liberty; but every man enjoys it, and +sees nothing of the government, which, though unseen, +is all-powerful in the affections of the country.</p> + +<p class="text">We come home grateful that we have such a country; +and though we love and admire much, very +much, in England, yet we rejoice that we can call the +United States our land. We hope we are better +prepared than before we started to do her service. +I am quite satisfied, Charley, that God has not done +for any other people what he has for us. We know +nothing of the restless anxiety which depresses men +in England as to the means of procuring the necessaries +of life. We have our chief anxieties called +out in reference to the obtaining the <i>luxuries</i> and +<i>embellishments</i> of life; the <i>necessaries</i> are almost certain +to every man who has health and character. +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_368" id="Page_368" title="368"></a></span>But in England, toil is poorly requited; and a father +and husband may, after unremitting labor, have to +find his refuge, and his only one, in that petition of +the Lord's Prayer, which you and I never employed +<i>in pure faith</i>, "Give me this day my daily bread." +We <i>say so</i>; but <i>we know whence it is coming to us. +He</i> knows not; and what he knows not, he asks +God after.</p> + +<p class="text">A thoughtful and humane American cannot travel +in Europe without having his sympathies daily +called out in behalf of the sufferings of man. I +am no apologist for slavery; I deeply lament its +existence; but I believe that there is as much suffering +in coal pits and manufacturing districts of +England as in our southern slave states. In regard +to England, I feel encouraged. In an absence of +fifteen years I see marked improvement. Man is +more respected, as man, than he once was; the +masses are coming up; and the wealthy and the +noble are more considerate. It is a great folly and +a wickedness to think that the nobility of England +are weak, vicious, unfeeling, proud, and self-indulgent. +Some of the noblest characters of England +are to be found in the peerage—men who "fear +God and work righteousness." Their homes are +often centres of diffusive blessedness; and were the +nobility of England what too many here suppose +them, the state could not last a twelvemonth. The +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_369" id="Page_369" title="369"></a></span>queen is popular, and is clearly a woman of great +tact. She would do at a crisis. Prince Albert is +everything to her. He is a profoundly wise and +prudent man, highly educated, and has very superior +powers of mind. He is continually making +speeches, but they are all marked by <i>adaptation</i>. I +have never heard one disrespectful word uttered in +England in regard to him. His labors for the +exhibition, have been remarkable, and but for the +prince the palace never would have been reared. +England is happy indeed in having such a man to +counsel and support the sovereign.</p> + +<p class="text">Europe looks as though a storm were once more +about to gather over her old battle fields. France +is not in her true position. She would like to see +her armies employed; and I shall not be surprised +to hear of his holiness clearing out from Rome and +seeking protection from Austria. If that happens, +France will sustain liberal views in the Eternal City, +and the contest will be severe.</p> + +<p class="text">Popery has lost its hold upon the continent, and +is seeking to regain its influence in England, and +plant it in America. The people of England are +Protestant to the heart's core. The folly of a few +scholastics at Oxford has created all the hue and +cry of Puseyism, and invigorated the hopes of +Rome. These men at Oxford have poisoned the +minds of a few of their pupils, and in the upper +<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_370" id="Page_370" title="370"></a></span>walks of life some sympathy is seen with views that +seem at least semi-Papistical. But the great body +of the people is sound. More than half the population +is made up of dissenters and they, to a man, +hate "the beast;" and there is about as much +danger of Popery being established in England as +there is of absolute monarchy being embraced as +our form of government.</p> + +<p class="text">Popery in America must spread by immigration. +We have Ireland virtually in America; but here +the Irish will gradually merge into Americans, and +the power of the priesthood will be less and less +regarded by their children. I have no apprehensions +from the coming of Catholics to our country. +Let them come, and we must get Bibles ready for +them, and Bible readers to visit them, and schools +to teach their children; and if cardinal, or archbishop, +or priest tell us that Popery is the friend of +science, and that it never persecuted genius, imprisoned +learning, nor burnt God's saints, we will tell +the deceiver that he lies in the face of God and +man and the world's history.</p> + +<p class="text">I am not, my dear fellow, uncharitable; a man +may be better than his creed; and I believe that +some priests who have sung the song of the mass +will hereafter sing the song of Moses and the Lamb. +But of Popery, <i>as it is seen in Italy, and Austria, +and other parts of the old world,</i> I cannot but pro<span class='pagenum'><a class="page" name="Page_371" id="Page_371" title="371"></a></span>nounce +it a curse to the human family, a system +all unworthy of God, and blasting to the happiness +of man.</p> + +<p class="text">The boys are in the enjoyment of health, and +will soon see you. They have been constant sources +of pleasure to me, by their thoughtful kindness and +consideration; and nothing has transpired, to cause +us to look back with pain on any part of our wanderings +from home.</p> + +<p class="center">Yours, very truly,</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Jno. O. Choules</span>.</p> + + +<p>To Mr. <span class="smcap">Charles W. Dustan</span>,</p> + +<p>Stapleton; Staten Island, New York.</p> + + +<p><br /><br /></p> +<div class="footnotes"> +<p>TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES</p> + +<div class="comment">Some page numbers do not appear in this document since +in the original they belong to either a blank page or a page containing +solely an illustration that was moved in order not to separate a paragraph. +In order to avoid multiple page numbers at the +same place or page numbers out of order, such page number are not shown. +</div> +</div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Young Americans Abroad, by Various + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK YOUNG AMERICANS ABROAD *** + +***** This file should be named 20625-h.htm or 20625-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/0/6/2/20625/ + +Produced by Frank van Drogen, Ralph Janke and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://dp.rastko.net, +from images generously made available by gallica +(Bibliothèque nationale de France) at http://gallica.bnf.fr. + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Young Americans Abroad + Vacation in Europe: Travels in England, France, Holland, + Belgium, Prussia and Switzerland + +Author: Various + +Editor: J.O. Choules + +Release Date: February 19, 2007 [EBook #20625] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK YOUNG AMERICANS ABROAD *** + + + + +Produced by Frank van Drogen, Ralph Janke and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://dp.rastko.net, +from images generously made available by gallica +(Bibliotheque nationale de France) at http://gallica.bnf.fr. + + + + + +[Illustration: Cathedral Church of St. Gudule, Brussels] + + + + + YOUNG AMERICANS ABROAD; + + OR, + + VACATION IN EUROPE: + + TRAVELS + + IN ENGLAND, FRANCE, HOLLAND, BELGIUM, PRUSSIA + AND SWITZERLAND. + + With Illustrations. + + BOSTON: + GOULD AND LINCOLN, + + 89 WASHINGTON STREET. + 1852. + + + + + Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1851, by + + GOULD AND LINCOLN, + + In the Clerk's Office of the District Court + of the District of Massachusetts. + + + + + STEREOTYPED AT THE + BOSTON STEREOTYPE FOUNDRY + + + + + TO + + GEORGE SUMNER, ESQ., + + AS A + + SLIGHT TRIBUTE OF GRATITUDE + + FOR HIS KIND ATTENTIONS IN PARIS, + + AND IN + + ADMIRATION OF TALENTS DEVOTED TO THE INTERESTS OF + + FREEDOM, + + THESE LETTERS ARE RESPECTFULLY + + DEDICATED, + + BY HIS OBLIGED FRIENDS, + + THE AUTHORS. + + + + + LIST + + OF + + ILLUSTRATIONS. + + * * * * * + + I. FRONTISPIECE--CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF ST. + GUDULE, BRUSSELS. + + II. ICEBERGS SEEN FROM STEAMSHIP "ARCTIC," + APRIL 6, 1851, 24 + + III. PORTRAIT OF THOMAS CHATTERTON, 56 + + IV. PORTRAIT OF ROBERT SOUTHEY, 61 + + V. PORTRAIT OF SAMUEL TAYLOR COLERIDGE, 88 + + VI. VIEW OF ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL, LONDON, 148 + + VII. A FULL-LENGTH PORTRAIT OF DR. SAMUEL + JOHNSON, 150 + + VIII. VIEW OF THE POET'S CORNER, WESTMINSTER + ABBEY, 185 + + IX. VIEW OF THE COLONNE DE JUILLET, 196 + + X. VINTAGE OF THE RHINE, 275 + + XI. VIEW OF A SWISS COTTAGE, 305 + + XII. NAPOLEON'S SARCOPHAGUS, 324 + + + + +INTRODUCTION + + +One evening last winter a few private pupils were sitting in the study +of their instructor, when he stated his intention to pass the spring +vacation in Europe, and his wish to have two or three of his young +friends as his travelling companions. An earnest and joyous desire was +expressed by each lad to enjoy the gratification, and in the course of a +short period the arrangements were made which afforded him the pleasure +to assure three boys that they should accompany him. The ages of the +young travelers were twelve, fourteen, and sixteen. Their attention was +immediately directed to a course of reading adapted to prepare them for +the beneficial use of the proposed tour; and during its progress each +boy kept a journal, which was useful as a reference in the +correspondence kept up with friends and families at home. A companion in +study, left behind, and prevented by duty from joining the party, wished +to have constant advices of the movements of his friends; and the +letters of the young travellers to a lad of sixteen are, at the advice +of many friends, now submitted to the perusal of those at that age. No +similar work is known to the authors of these letters; and at the +forthcoming gift season it is hoped that the young of our country may be +amused and gratified by these reminiscences of other lands. + +J.O. CHOULES. + +NEWPORT, R.I., Nov. 25, 1851. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +LETTER I. + +Arrival at New York. + + +LETTER II. + +Going on board Steamer.--Arctic.--Weather.--Passengers.--Loss of Life +and Burial at Sea.--Icebergs.--Sabbath at Sea.--Land.--Excellence of +Collins Line.--Adelphi Hotel. + + +LETTER III. + +Liverpool; Its Public Buildings, Docks, &c. + + +LETTER IV. + +Birmingham.--Arrival in London.--Strand.--Temple Bar.--Fleet +Street.--London Exchange.--London Coffee House.--Omnibuses. + + +LETTER V. + +United States Minister in London.--His kind Attentions.--Crystal +Palace.--London of other Days.--Monument.--The Bridges. + + +LETTER VI. + +Villages.--Camberwel.--Accidents and Murders in England as common as in +America.--Greenwich Fair.--Gypsies. + + +LETTER VII. + +Great Western Railroad.--Swindon.--Bristol.--Scenes of early +Life.--Ancient City.--Clifton and Hot Wells.--Redcliffe +Church.--Chatterton. + + +LETTER VIII. + +Bristol Cathedral.--Monuments and +Inscriptions.--Butler.--Mason.--Southey.--Cloisters.--Mayor's +Chapel.--Dundry.--Vine Prospect.--School attended in Boyhood. + + +LETTER IX. + +Clifton.--Avon.--Hot Wells.--Vincent's Rocks.--Robert Hall.--Sublime +Scenery.--Leigh Court Picture Gallery. + +LETTER X + +Bath.--Royal Crescent.--Queen Square.--Cathedral.--Hot +Baths.--Bradford.--Trowbridge.--Devizes.--Cricket. + + +LETTER XI. + +Tower of London; its History.--Horse Armory.--Antiquities and +Curiosities.--Executions.--Regalia, &c. + + +LETTER XII. + +Thames Tunnel.--New Houses of Parliament.--House of Lords +described.--Fresco Paintings.--St. Stephen's Hall.--House of +Commons.--Westminster Hall; its Associations, festive and criminal. + + +LETTER XIII. + +British Museum; its fine Galleries, Pictures, Library, Autographs, and +MSS.--The Place to study.--Lord Campbell.--Servant who resorted to it. + + +LETTER XIV. + +Woolwich.--Naval Arsenal and Dock Yard.--Ships of War.--Yard.--Twenty +Thousand Cannon.--Greenwich.--Blackheath.--Lee Grove.--Golden Cross and +its Host.--Mr. Lawrence's Soiree.--Duke of Wellington. + + +LETTER XV. + +Exhibition.--Season Tickets.--Wet Weather.--One May fine.--City +Streets.--Throng around Palace.--Arrival of the Queen.--Opening +Scenes.--Procession, &c. + + +LETTER XVI. + +Fine Equipages.--Appearance of the Palace.--Walk through the +Exhibition.--American Contributions.--Greek Slave, &c.--Mediaeval +Court.--Kohinoor Glass Window.--Austrian Furniture.--Amazon of +Kiss.--Crusaders.--Galleries.--Transept.--Glass Fountain.-- +Sculpture.--Veiled Vesta.--Machinery.--Models.--Model of +Liverpool.--Plate Glass.--Taunton Cabinet--Steam Power, &c. + + +LETTER XVII. + +Royal Polytechnic Institution.--Lectures.--Egyptian Hall.--Panorama of +Overland Route to California.--Exeter Hall Sermons.--Wyld's great +Globe.--Zooelogical Gardens.--Christ's Church Hospital; its Boys. + + +LETTER XVIII. + +Windsor Castle; its History.--Interior of the Palace.-- +Pictures.--Waterloo Chamber.--St. George's Chanel.--Royal +Tombs.--Edward IV.--Henry VIII.--Charles I., Discovery of his Body in +1813, Account of the Appearance, &c.--Terraces of the Castle.--Eton +College.--Datchett.--Great Park.--Long Walk.--Celebrated +Trees.--Virginia Water.--Cumberland Lodge.--Frogmore. + + +LETTER XIX. + +Sir John Soane's Museum, House, Antiquities, Pictures.--Hogarth's +"Rake's Progress," and the "Election."--Wonderful Economy of Room, +&c.--Greenwich; Hospital, Chapel, Paintings, and Statuary.--Queen's +Stables; Horses, Harness Room, State Carriage.--Soyer's Symposium; +Description of its Rooms.--Dinner there. + + +LETTER XX. + +The Temple Church and its historical Associations.--Steamboat on +Thames.--View of St. Paul's from River.--St. Paul's Cathedral; its +Dome.--Statues: Johnson, Howard, Reynolds, Heber, West, Nelson.--Ascent +of the Dome and Cross.--View of London. + + +LETTER XXI. + +Westminster Abbey.--Early History.--Associations.--Poet's +Corner.--Chapels.--Monuments and Effigies.--Coronation Chairs.--Stone +of Scone Statuary.--Sermon in Abbey by Lord John Thynne. + + +LETTER XXII. + +Hyde Park.--St. James's and Green Park.--Regent's Park.--Squares of +London.--Northumberland House.--Sion House.--St Margaret's Church.--St. +Martin's in-the-Fields. + + +LETTER XXIII. + +Mission House.--Lord Mayor's Day.--Royal Exchange.--Bank of +England.--London Docks.--Covent Garden Market. + + +LETTER XXIV. + +Rev. Dr. Murray.--Dover Castle.--Passage across the Channel.-- +Calais.--St. Omer.--Douai.--Arras.--Amiens.--Clermont.--Paris.-- +Hotel Windsor.--A Mistake, and Loss of a Dinner. + + +LETTER XXV. + +Gardens and Promenades.--Gayety.--Flowers.--Wrong Drawing-room.--Notre +Dame.--Interior.--Sacristy.--Robes and Relics.--Hotel de Ville.--Louvre +shut.--Paris by Moonlight. + + +LETTER XXVI. + +Palais Royal.--Garden.--Gay Scene.--Passage d'Orleans.--House opposite +to which Henry IV. was assassinated by Ravaillac.--Moliere.--Marat and +Charlotte Corday.--Palace of the Luxembourg.--Paintings.--Gardens.-- +Statuary.--Chapel. + + +LETTER XXVII + +Hotel de Cluny; History, Associations, Interior, wonderful +Contents.--Julian's Palace of the Baths.--Mr. George Sumner.--Church +of St. Sulpice.--Statuary.--Ecclesiastical Fountain.--Bibliotheque St. +Genevieve.--Church of St. Etienne du Mont.--History.--Monuments of +Racine and Pascal.--Christening an Infant.--Church of St. Germain des +Pres, (oldest in Paris); its Restoration going on.--Tombs of Descartes, +Mabillon, Montfaucon, &c. + + +LETTER XXVIII. + +Jardin des Plantes; Situation, History.--Cedar of Lebanon and +Palm-trees.--Menagerie.--Cuvier.--Museum of Comparative Anatomy, +&c.--Paris owes much to Henry IV., Louis XIV., Napoleon, and Louis +Philippe.--Pont Neuf.--St. Bartholomew's Massacre.--Bastile.--Column. + + +LETTER XXIX. + +An amusing Fellow-countryman.--Pere la Chaise.--Monuments.--Abattoir. +--Consul's Office; his numerous Calls. + + +LETTER XXX. + +Cirque.--Amusements.--Champs Elysees.--Hippodrome.--Arabs.--Sabbath +kept in Parlor. + + +LETTER XXXI. + +Pleasant Company.--Railroad to Brussels.--Jemappes.--Mons.--Brussels; +History.--Hotel de Ville.--Cathedral Church of St. Gudule; its +Monuments.--First Communion.--Park.--Palace.--Hon. Mr. Bayard. + + +LETTER XXXII. + +Lacework.--Money Matters.--An uncivil Banker.--Museum.--Paintings. +--Burgundian Library.--Manekin.--Botanical Garden. + + +LETTER XXXIII. + +Excursion to Waterloo.--Hongomont.--Relics.--Belgian Mound and +Lion.--Ivy from Waterloo for Mr. J.P. Hall.--Church.--King Leopold. + + +LETTER XXXIV. + +Laeken.--Vilvorde.--Mechlin, or Mallnes.--Antwerp; History.--Place +Verte.--Statue of Rubens.--Cathedral of Notre Dame.--Interior +Pulpit.--Pictures by Rubens.--Tower of the Church.--Quentin Matsys's +fine old Houses. + + +LETTER XXXV. + +St. James's Church.--Tomb of Rubens.--Paintings by Rubens and +Jordaens.--Vandyke.--Mount Calvary.--Monk of La Trappe.--Museum.--Chair +of Rubens; his Pictures.--Other great Works of Art.--St. Andrew's +Church.--Bourse.--Mr. Vesey, U.S. Consul. + + +LETTER XXXVI. + +Dock Yards at Antwerp.--Steamboat Passage on the Scheldt.--Dort.--Lost +Villages.--Bergen op Zoom.--Van Speyk.--Rotterdam.--Erasmus.--Delft. +--Hague.--Hon. George Folsom; his Kindness.--Scheveningen.--Museum. +--Japanese Curiosities.--Historical Curiosities.--Gallery of Pictures. +--Rembrandt, Paul Potter, Gerard Dow, &c.--King's Palace.--Brimenhoff. +--De Witt.--Bosch.--John Adams's House. + + +LETTER XXXVII. + +Dunes.--Leyden; History.--Harlem.--Church of St. Bavon; +Organ.--Coster.--Flower Gardens.--Palace of late King.--Picture +Gallery.--Exhibition of Pictures by living Artists.--Amsterdam. + + +LETTER XXXVIII. + +Mr. J.G. Schwartze.--Stadhuis.--Churches.--Jews.--Picture +Gallery.--Dutch School.--Columbus before the Council.--Artists' Club. + + +LETTER XXXIX. + +Utrecht.--Lobith.--Ruhrort.--Meet with Americans on Return from the +East.--Cologne; History.--Cathedral.--Three Kings.--Relics.--St. Peter's +Church.--Crucifixion of Peter, by Rubens.--Champagne for America. + + +LETTER XL. + +The +Rhine.--Bonn.--Drachenfels.--Godesberg.--Rolandseck.--Oberwinter. +--Okenfels.--Castle Reineck.--Neuwied.--A Raft.--Castle of +Sain.--Ehrenbreitstein.--Coblentz. + + +LETTER XLI. + +Coblentz.--The Moselle.--Excursion to Stolzenfels.--Curiosities.--Fine +View.--Boat up to Mayence.--The Brothers.--Rheinfels.--Lurley +Rock.--Seven Sisters.--Pfalz.--The Rheingau.--Falkenberg.--Rheinstein. +--Assmanshausen.--Ehrenfels.--Mausetherm.--Bingen.--Geisenheim. +--Johannisberg.--Erbach.--Biberich.--Mayence.--John Guttemberg's +Statue--Austrian Troops.--An English Nobleman. + + +LETTER XLII. + +Frankfort.--The Roemer; its Portraits of the Emperors.--Mr. Bethman's +Gallery of Statuary.--Ariadne.--Jews' Quarters.--Darmstadt.--The +Bergstrasse.--Heidelberg.--Castle.--Baden.--Kehl.--Strasburg. + + +LETTER XLIII. + +Cathedral; Its History; Interior Clock.--St. Thomas's Church.--Kleber's +Tomb. + + +LETTER XLIV. + +Vosges Mountains.--Vineyards.--Colmar.--Muehlhausen.--Basle.--Black +Forest.--United States Consul, Mr. Burchardt.--Cathedral.--Tomb of +Erasmus.--Chapter House.--Holbein Gallery.--University.--Library. +--MSS.--St. Jacob.--Tea Party. + + +LETTER XLV. + +Moutiers Valley.--Sublime Scenery.--Domach.--Arch.--Roman +Antiquities.--Berne.--Mechanical Clock.--Cathedral; Organ, Choir, +Bears.--Lausanne. + + +LETTER XLVI. + +Mountain Scenery.--Hotel Gibbon.--Episcopal Church.--Signal.--Hotel de +Ville, and its kind Inhabitants.--Cathedral; its History.--Steamboat +to Vevay.--Castle of Chillon.--St. Martin's Church and the +Regicides.--Geneva.--Cathedral.--Museum.--Calvin's +MBS.--D'Aubigne.--Gaussen--Malan.--Evangelical Association; its +Anniversary.--Count George.--Soiree.--Mr. Delorme.--The +Saleve.--Savoy.--Rousseau's Island. + + +LETTER XLVII. + +Diligence for Dijon.--Fine Scenery.--Dijon; History.--Railroad to +Paris.--Sens.--Cathedral.--Fontainebleau. + + +LETTER XLVIII. + +Methodist Chapel.--Madeline.--Pantheon.--Louvre, open.--Statuary and +Paintings.--Versailles.--Statuary.--Series of National +Paintings.--Portraits of distinguished Men.--Apartments.--Gardens and +Fountains.--Grand and Petit Trianon.--Passy.--St. Cloud. + + +LETTER XLIX. + +Glass Depot--American Friends.--Good Intentions.--Hospital des +Invalides.--Garden of the Tulleries; its Scenery.--Triumphal +Arch.--Chapel of St. Ferdinand.--National Library.--A Tradesman's +Memory. + + +LETTER L. + +Calais; its Recollections.--Rough Passage of the Channel.--Dover.--Mr. +Peabody's Entertainment on the Fourth of July described.--Company.--A +patriotic Act. + + +LETTER LI. + +Entertainment at the Belgian Minister's.--Young Nobility.--A noble +Boy.--Craven Chapel.--Slavery.--Exhibition.--Pauper Labor.--Need of a +Tariff. + + +LETTER LII. + +Kind Friends at Bristol,--Weston Super Mare.--Museum of Baptist +College.--Highbury Chapel.--Old Houses of Bristol.--Fine Churches. + + +LETTER LIII. + +River Avon.--Wye.--Chepstow.--St. Aryan's.--Wynd Cliff.--Glorious +Scenery.--Tintern Abbey; its History.--Ragland Castle; +Appearance.--Marquis of Worcester.--Chopstow Castle.--Henry +Marten.--Defence of the Parliamentary Party.--Severn River.--Old +Passage.--Henbury.--Blaize Castle.--Birthday Lines. + + +LETTER LIV. + +Leave Bristol.--Berkeley.--Cheltenham.--Birmingham; Manufactories.--Rev. +John Angell James.--Mr. Vanwart.--Liverpool.--Chester; its +Antiquity.--Cathedral.--Rows and Pillars.--Englishmen and Americans have +much in Common.--Royal Agricultural Exhibition at Windsor. + + +LETTER LV. + +Passage Home in the Steamer Atlantic.--Claims of the Collins +Line.--Lessons taught by Travel in other Lands.--Our +Comforts.--Excellent Character of many of the English Nobility.--Queen +Victoria and Prince Albert.--Prospect of Affairs in Europe.--Popery as +seen in her proper Territories. + + + + +Young Americans Abroad. + + + + +Letter 1. + + +ASTOR HOUSE, NEW YORK, April 1, 1851. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +I have just arrived at this place, and have found my companions on hand, +all ready for the commencement of the long-anticipated voyage. We regret +the circumstances which render it your duty to remain, and we all feel +very sorry for the disappointment of your wishes and our hopes. You +will, however, feel happy in the thought that you are clearly in the +path of duty; and you have already learnt that that path is a safe one, +and that it always leads to happiness. You have begged us all to write +to you as frequently as we can, and we have concluded to send you our +joint contributions, drawing largely upon our journals as we move from +place to place; and, as we have for so many years had pleasant +intercourse in the family circle, we wish to maintain it by +correspondence abroad. Our letters will, of course, be very different +in their character and interest, because you will bear in mind that out +ages are different; and we shall write you from a variety of points, +some having a deeper interest than others. I trust that this series of +letters will give you a general view of our movements, and contribute to +your gratification, if not to your instruction. The weather is +delightful, and we are anticipating a fine day for leaving port. It is +to all of us a source of pain that we are deprived of your sunny smile; +and while we are wandering far away in other lands, we shall often, in +fancy, listen to your merry laugh; and I assure you, my dear fellow, +that, wherever we rove, it will be amongst our pleasantest thoughts of +home when we anticipate the renewal of personal intercourse with one who +has secured so warm a place in our affections. + +Yours truly, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 2. + + +ADELPHI HOTEL, LIVERPOOL, April 14. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +It is but twelve days since we parted, and yet we are actually in the +old world, and the things which we have so often talked over on the +rock-bound shore are really before me. Yes, we are on the soil of Old +England, and are soon to see its glories and greatness, and, I fear, its +miseries, for a bird's eye view has already satisfied me that there is +enough of poverty. You know we left New York in a soaking rain, and the +wind blowing fresh from the north-east. We all felt disappointed, as we +had hoped to pass down the bay, so celebrated for its beauty, with the +bright sunshine to cheer our way; but we had to take comfort from the +old proverb, that "a bad beginning makes a good ending." James, George, +and I had made up our minds to a regular time of sea-sickness, and so we +hastened to put our state room into order and have all our conveniences +fixed for the voyage. As soon as we had made matters comfortable, we +returned to the deck, and found a most formidable crowd. Every passenger +seemed to have, on the occasion, a troop of friends, and all parts of +the immense steamer were thronged. The warning voice of _"all on shore"_ +soon caused a secession, and at twelve o'clock we had the great agent at +work by which we hoped to make headway against wind and wave. The +cheering of the crowd upon the wharf was hearty as we dropped into the +river, and its return from our passengers was not lacking in spirit. The +Arctic, you know, is one of the Collins line of steamers, and I was not +a little surprised at her vast size and splendid accommodations, because +I had only seen the Cunard boats in Boston, which are very inferior, in +size and comfort, to this palace and tower of the ocean. + +We all anticipated a hard time of it, from the severe storm which raged +all the morning, and I, in common with all the passengers, was delighted +to find it any thing but rough water outside the Hook. We kept steaming +away till we lost sight of land with the loss of daylight, and yet the +sea was in less commotion than it frequently exhibits in Newport Harbor. +The next morning, at breakfast, we had quite a fair representation at +table, and I think more than two thirds presented themselves for duty. +We boys were all on hand, and passed for "able-bodied men." The routine +of life on board was as follows: We breakfasted at eight, lunched at +twelve, dined at four, took tea at half past six, and from nine till +eleven gentlemen had any article for supper they saw fit to order. This +is quite enough of time for taking care of the outer man, and any one +careful of his health will be sure to intermit one or two of these +seasons. All the meals were excellent, and the supplies liberal. The +tables present a similar appearance to those of a first-class hotel. In +regard to our passengers, I think I can say, with confidence, that a +more agreeable set of persons could not well have been gathered +together. It really was a nicely-assorted cargo. We numbered one +hundred and thirty, and the various parts of our country were all +represented. Philadelphia sent the largest delegation; from that city we +had more than twenty. I liked the looks of the passengers at the first +glance, and every day's intercourse heightened my estimate of their +worth and pleasantness. Amongst the company we had Professor Haddock, of +Dartmouth College, going out to Portugal as _charge d'affaires_. He was +accompanied by his lady and son. Then, too, we had the world-renowned +Peter Parley, with his accomplished family circle. Mr. Goodrich, after a +long life of labor for the youth of his country, for whose reading and +instruction he has done so much, has been honored by the government of +the United States with an appointment as consul at Paris. Mr. Goodrich +resided there for two or three years, and was in Paris during the +revolution of 1848. He seems fond of the company of young people, and we +spent a great deal of time on board with him, listening to his stories, +some made up for the occasion, and narrations of the events in February +at Paris, and some capital anecdotes about the last war with England, +during which he served his country in the army. The Hon. George Wright, +of California, and her first representative in Congress, was also one of +our party; and his glowing descriptions of the auriferous regions kept +groups of audience for many an hour. The Rev. Arthur Cleveland Cox, of +Hartford, favorably known as the author of some pleasant rhymes and +sonnets, Mr. Cunningham, a southern editor, and several retired sea +captains, all contributed to enhance the agreeableness of the voyage. I +am sorry to tell you that, three days out, we had a sad occurrence in +our little world. Just as we were sitting down to lunch at eight bells, +the machinery stopped for a moment, and we were informed that William +Irwin, one of the assistant engineers, was crushed to death. He +accidentally slipped from his position, and was killed instantaneously. +In less than half an hour he was sewed up in canvas, and all hands +called to attend his funeral services! The poor fellow was laid upon a +plank covered with the American flag, and placed at the wheel-house. The +service was performed by Mr. Cox, in full canonicals; and I can assure +you that the white-robed priest, as he issued from the cabin and +ascended the wheel-house, really looked impressively. At the close, he +was committed to the deep. What food for thought was here! A man in +health and at life's daily task,--alive,--dead,--and buried,--all these +conditions of his state crowded into thirty minutes! The poor man had a +mother who was dependent upon him. Dr. Choules drew up a subscription +paper for her benefit, and nearly five hundred dollars were at once +raised for her relief. This unhappy event, of course, gave a sad +damper to the joyous feelings which existed on board, and which were +excited by our fine weather and rapid headway. On Sunday we had two +sermons in the cabin to large congregations, all the passengers +attending, with the officers and many of the crew. The morning service +was by Dr. Choules, and the evening one by Mr. Cox. + +[Illustration: Four Positions of an Iceberg, seen 6th of April. +Estimated Height, 300 feet. Lat. 43.04; long. 53.11; at Noon.] + +[Illustration: Icebergs seen from the Steamship "Arctic," on the Voyage +from New York to Liverpool, April 6, 1851.] + +In the afternoon, April 6, we had the gratification to see a magnificent +iceberg. We were in lat. 43 deg. 4', lon. 53 deg. 11' at twelve o'clock, and at +three the ice appeared at about ten miles' distance. The estimated +height was about three hundred feet. One if the passengers took a +sketch. I also made one, and have laid it aside for your inspection. + +The berg had much the appearance of the gable end of a large house, and +at some little distance there was another, of tower-like aspect, and +much resembling a light-house. The effect of the sun upon it, as we saw +it in various positions, was exceedingly fine. On Monday, the 7th, we +saw a much larger one, with several small ones as neighbors. This was +probably one mile in length, and about two hundred feet high. + +We saw several whales frolicking at the distance of a mile, and +distinctly saw them spout at short intervals. + +After having had all reason to hope for a ten-day passage, we were +annoyed for four or five days with head winds, materially retarding our +headway. The evenings of the voyage were generally spent on deck, where +we had charming concerts. Seldom have I heard better singing than we +were favored with by eight or ten ladies and gentlemen. One universal +favorite was the beautiful piece, "Far, far at sea." On Sunday, the +13th, just after morning service, conducted by Mr. Cox, we made Mizzen +Head, and obtained a magnificent view of the north coast of Ireland, +which was far more beautiful than we had expected. The coast is very +bold, and the cliffs precipitous, in many places strongly reminding us +of the high lands of the Hudson. A more exquisite treat than that which +we enjoyed all the afternoon in looking on the Irish coast I can hardly +imagine. At night we had a closing service, and Dr. Choules preached. +Every one seemed to feel that we had cause for thankfulness that we had +been brought in safety across the ocean, and under so many circumstances +of enjoyment We have made acquaintances that are truly valuable, and +some of them I hope to cultivate in future life. One of the great +advantages of travel, Charles, seems to be, that it enables us to +compare men of other places than those we live in with our former +acquaintances. It brings us into intercourse with those who have had a +different training and education than our own; and I think a man or boy +must be pretty thoroughly conceited who does not often find out his own +inferiority to many with whom he chances to meet. On board our ship are +several young men of fine attainments, who, engaged in mechanical +business, are going out to obtain improvement and instruction by a +careful study of the great exhibition. A number of gentlemen with us are +young merchants, who represent houses in our great cities, and go to +England and France twice and three times every year. Some of these are +thoroughly accomplished men, and, wherever they go, will reflect credit +upon their country. In no country, perhaps, do young men assume +important trusts in commercial life at so early a period as in America. +I have heard one or two Englishmen on board express their surprise at +finding large business operations intrusted to young men of twenty and +twenty-one; and yet there are some such with us who are making their +second and third trips to Manchester, Leeds, Paisley, and Paris, for the +selection of goods. + +I ought to tell you that, on the last day of the voyage, we had a great +meeting in the cabin, Mr. Goodrich in the chair, for the purpose of +expressing the satisfaction of the passengers with the Arctic, her +captain, officers, and engineer. Several good speeches were made, and +some resolutions passed. This has become so ordinary an affair at the +termination of a passage, as to have lost much of its original value; +but as this ship had an unusual number of passengers, many of them well +known to their fellow-countrymen, and as great opposition had been +displayed, on both sides of the ocean, to this line of steamers, it was +thought suitable to express our views in relation to this particular +ship and the great undertaking with which she is identified. Every man +on board was satisfied that, in safety, these ships are equal to the +Cunard line; while in comfort, accommodation, size, and splendor they +far surpass their rivals. It really seems strange to us that Americans +should think of making the ocean trip in an English steamship, when +their own country has a noble experiment in trial, the success of which +alone depends upon the patriotism and spirit of her citizens. The +English on board are forced to confess that our ship and the line are +all that can be asked, and I think that pretty strong prejudices have +been conquered by this voyage. Every one left the ship with sentiments +of respect to Captain Luce, who, I assure you, we found to be a very +kind friend, and we shall all of us be glad to meet him again on ship or +shore. + +On Monday, the 14th, at three o'clock, we took our pilot, and at eight +o'clock we anchored off Liverpool, and a dark-looking steamtug came off +to us for the mails, foreign ministers, and bearers of despatches. As +we came under the wing of one of the last-named class of favored +individuals, we took our luggage, and proceeded straight to the Adelphi +Hotel. I ought to say that James was the first to quit the ship and +plant his foot on Old England. It was quite strange to see it so light +at half past eight o'clock, although it was a rainy evening. I shall not +soon forget the cheerful appearance of the Adelphi, which, in all its +provisions for comfort, both in the coffee-room and our chambers, struck +me more favorably than any hotel I had ever seen. Although our +state-room on board the Arctic was one of the extra size and every thing +that was nice, yet I long for the conveniences of a bed-chamber and a +warm bath. I am quite disposed to join with the poor Irish woman who had +made a steerage passage from New York to Liverpool in a packet ship; and +when landed at St. George's pier, and seated on her trunk, a lady who +had also landed, when getting into her carriage, said, "Well, my good +woman, I suppose you are very glad to get out of the ship?" Her reply +was, "And indeed, my lady, every bone in my body cries out _feathers!_" + + +Yours truly, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 3. + + +LIVERPOOL. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Well, we have fairly commenced our travel, and yet I can scarcely +realize the fact that I am here in Old England, and that, for some +months at least, I shall be away from home and the occupations of the +school-room. The next day after landing we went to the custom-house to +see our fellow-passengers pass their effects, and really felt glad to +think of our good fortune in landing every thing at night and direct +from the ship. It was an exciting scene, and I was not a little amused +to observe the anxiety of the gentlemen to save their cigars from the +duty imposed, and which amounts to nine shillings sterling per pound. +All sorts of contrivances were in vogue, and the experiences of men were +various, the man with one hundred, perhaps, being brought up, while his +neighbor with five hundred passed off successfully, and, as he cleared +the building, seemed disposed to place his finger on the prominent +feature of his face. + +I quite like the appearance of Liverpool. After walking through the +principal streets and making a general survey of the shops,--no one +speaks of _store_,--I think I can testify to the extraordinary cleanness +of the city, and the massiveness and grandeur of the public buildings. + +Our attention was first directed to the cemetery which had been +described, you remember, to us one evening in the study. It is on the +confines of the city, and is made but of an old quarry. I liked it +better than any cemetery I ever saw; it is unlike all I had seen, and, +though comparatively small, is very picturesque, I may almost say +romantic. The walls are lofty, and are devoted to spacious tombs, and +the groundwork abounds in garden shrubbery and labyrinth. Some of the +monuments are striking. The access to this resting-place is by a steep +cut through the rock, and you pass under an archway of the most imposing +character. At the entrance of the cemetery is a neat chapel, and the +officiating minister has a dwelling-house near the gate. + +I wish you could see a building now in progress, and which has taken +twelve or fourteen years to erect, and from its appearance will not, I +suppose, be finished in four or five more. It is called St. George's +Hall. The intent is to furnish suitable accommodations for the various +law courts, and also to contain the finest ball-room in Europe. It is in +a commanding position. I know little of architecture, but this building +strikes me as one of exquisite beauty. We obtained an order from the +mayor to be shown over it and examine the works, and we enjoyed it very +much. The great hall will be without a rival in England. The town hall +is a noble edifice, and the people are quite proud of it. The interior +is finely laid out, and has some spacious rooms for the civic revelries +of the fathers of the town. The good woman who showed us round feels +complacently enough as she explains the uses of the rooms. The ball-room +is ninety feet by forty-six, and forty feet high. The dining and +drawing-rooms are spacious apartments. On the grand staircase is a noble +statue of George Canning, by Chantrey, whose beautiful one of Washington +we have so often admired in the Boston State House. In the building are +some good paintings of the late kings; one or two by Sir Thomas +Lawrence. The Exchange is directly behind the hall, and contains in the +centre a glorious bronze monument to Lord Nelson, the joint production +of Wyat and Westmacott. Death is laying his hand upon the hero's heart, +and Victory is placing a fourth crown on his sword. Ever since I read +Southey's Life of Nelson, I have felt an interest in every thing +relating to this great; yet imperfect man. You know that illustrated +work on Nelson that we have so often looked at it contains a large +engraving of this monument. As Yankee boys, we found our way to the top +of the Exchange, to look at the cotton sales-room. This same room has +more to do with our good friends at the south than any other in the +world. The atmosphere would have been chilly to a Georgian planter, as +cotton was down--down. + +The Necropolis is a very spacious burying-place, open to all classes, +and where persons can be interred with the use of any form desired. The +gateway is of stone, and not unlike the granite one at Mount Auburn; and +on one side is a chapel, and on the other a house for the register. Not +far from this we came to the Zooelogical Gardens, kept in excellent +order, and where is a good collection of animals, birds, &c. The +Collegiate Institution is an imposing structure in the Tudor style. + +St. George's Church, which stands at the head of Lord Street, occupies +the position of the old castle, destroyed, I believe, more than one +hundred and fifty years ago, and is a very graceful termination to one +of the best business avenues of the city. Several of the churches and +chapels are in good style. But one of the best buildings is--as it +should be, in a city like this--the Sailor's Home, not far from the +Custom House. This is a highly-ornamented house, and would adorn any +city of the world. + +The Custom House is thought to be one of the finest buildings in the +kingdom. It occupied ten years in its erection. It is composed of three +_facades_, from a rusticated pavement, each having a splendid portico of +eight Ionic columns. The whole is surmounted by a dome, one hundred and +thirty feet high, and the effect of the building is excellent. The glory +of Liverpool is her docks, and a stranger is sure to be pointed to the +great landing stage, an immense floating pier, which was moored into its +present position on the 1st of June, 1847. This stage is five hundred +and seven feet long, and over eighty feet wide. This mass of timber +floats upon pontoons, which have to support more than two thousand tons. +At each end is a light barge. + +In the Clarence dock are to be found the Irish and coasting steamers, +and to the north are the Trafalgar, Victoria, and Waterloo docks; the +Prince's dock, and the Great Prince's dock basin. On the outside of all +these is a fine parade, of about one half a mile, and which affords one +of the most beautiful marine promenades in the world, and gives an +interesting view of the Cheshire shore, opposite the city. The Prince's +dock is five hundred yards long, and one hundred broad. Vessels, on +arriving, discharge on the east side, and take in cargo on the west. +Besides all these there is the Brunswick dock, Queen's dock, Duke's +dock, Salthouse dock, &c. + +The Royal Liverpool Institution is a great benefit to the inhabitants. +It has a good library, fine collections of paintings, and a good museum +of natural history. Many of these paintings belong to the early masters, +and date even before the fifteenth century. We were interested to find +here a complete set of casts of the Elgin marbles. The originals were +the decorations of the Parthenon at Athens, and are now in the British +Museum. As we shall spend some time in that collection, I say no more at +present about these wonderful monuments of genius. The Athenaeum and the +Lyceum are both fine buildings, and each has a good library, lecture, +and news rooms. + +We were disappointed at finding the Rev. Dr. Raffles, the most eloquent +preacher of the city, out of town. He was the successor of Spencer, who +was drowned bathing in the Mersey, and his Life by Raffles is one of +deep interest. The great historical name of Liverpool is William Roscoe, +the author of the Lives of Leo X. and the Medici. I must not omit to +tell you that, during our stay, the town was all alive with a regiment +of lancers, just arrived from Ireland, on their way to London. They are +indeed fine-looking fellows, and are mounted on capital horses. I have +watched their evolutions in front of the Adelphi with much pleasure, and +have been amused to notice a collection of the most wretched-looking +boys I ever saw, brought together by the troops. There seems to me more +pauperism this week, in Liverpool, than I ever saw in New York in my +life. + + +Truly yours, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 4. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Does it not seem strange that I am here in London? I can hardly tell +what to write about first. I stand at the door of our hotel and look at +the crowds in the streets, and then at old King Charles, at Charing +Cross, directly across the road, and when I think that this is the old +city where Wat Tyler figured, and Whittington was lord mayor, and Lady +Jane Grey was beheaded, and where the Tower is still to be seen, I am +half beside myself, and want to do nothing but roam about for a good +month to come. I have read so much concerning London, that I am pretty +sure I know more about it than many of the boys who have heard Bow +Church bells all their lives. We left Liverpool for Birmingham, where we +passed an afternoon and evening in the family of a manufacturer very +pleasantly, and at ten o'clock took the express mail train for London. +We are staying at a hotel called the Golden Cross, Charing Cross. We +have our breakfast in the coffee-room, and then dine as it suits our +convenience as to place and hour. We spent one day in riding about the +city, and I think we got quite an idea of the great streets. + +The Strand is a very fine business street, perhaps a mile long. It +widens in one part, and has two churches in the middle of it, and a +narrow street seems built inside it at one place, as nasty, dirty a lane +as I ever saw, called Hollowell Street. I was very much delighted at the +end of the Strand to see old Temple Bar, which is the entrance to the +city proper, and which divides Fleet Street from the Strand. It is a +noble archway, with small side arches for foot passengers. The head of +many a poor fellow, and the quarters of men called traitors, have been +fastened over this gateway in former times. + +Dr. Johnson was once walking in Westminster Abbey with Goldsmith, and as +they were looking at the Poet's Corner, Johnson said to his friend,-- + + "Forsitan et nostrum nomen miscebitur istis." + +When they had walked on to Temple Bar, Goldsmith stopped Johnson, and +pointed to the heads of Fletcher and Townley, hanging above, and slyly +remarked,-- + + "Forsitan et nostrum nomen miscebitur _istis_." + +I suppose you remember that the great dictionary man was a Jacobite in +his heart. + +The present bar was put up in 1670, and was designed by Sir Christopher +Wren. The statues on the sides, which are towards the city, are those of +Queen Elizabeth and James I.; and towards the Strand, those of Charles +I. and Charles II. They stand in niches. + +Whenever the monarch passes into the city, there is much ceremony takes +place at the bar. The gates are closed, a herald sounds a trumpet and +knocks for entrance, the gates are opened, and the lord mayor of London +presents the sword of the city to the sovereign, who returns it to his +lordship. The upper part of the bar is used by Messrs. Childs, the +bankers, as a store room for their past account books. + +Fleet Street is thronged with passengers and carriages of all sorts. +Just a few doors from the bar, on the right-hand side, is a +gayly-painted front, which claims to have been a palace of Henry VIII. +and the residence of Cardinal Wolsey. It is now used as a hair-cutting +shop, up stairs. We went up and examined the panelled ceiling, said to +be just as it used to be. It is certainly very fine, and looks as if it +were as old as the times of bluff Harry. Of course we had our hair cut +in the old palace. + +We followed through Fleet Street, noticing the offices of Punch and the +London Illustrated News, till we came to Ludgate Hill,--rather an +ascent,--which is the direct way to the Cathedral Church of St. Paul's. +It stands directly in front of Ludgate Hill, and the churchyard occupies +a large space, and the streets open on each side, making a sort of +square called Paul's Churchyard, and then at the rear you go into +Cheapside. We looked with interest, I can tell you, at Bow Church, and, +as the old bells were ringing, I tried to listen if I could hear what +Whittington heard once from their tingling--"Turn again, Whittington, +lord mayor, of London." At the end of this street, on the right hand, is +the lord mayor's house, called the Mansion House, and directly in front +of the street, closing it up, and making it break off, is the Royal +Exchange; whilst at the left is the Bank of England. All these are very +noble-looking buildings, and you will hear about them from us as we +examine them in our future walks. We went to the counting-house of +Messrs. Baring & Co., the great merchants and bankers for so many +Americans, and there we found our letters and got some money. Mr. +Sturgis, one of the partners, told us to take the check to the bank, No. +68 Lombard Street, and informed us that was the very house where the +great merchant of Queen Elizabeth's time--Sir Thomas Gresham--used to +live. He built the first London Exchange, and his sign, a large +grasshopper, is still preserved at the bank. On Good Friday we had bunns +for breakfast, with a cross upon them, and they were sold through the +streets by children, crying "One a penny, two a penny, hot cross bunns." +We took a carriage and rode to Camden town to visit a friend; thence we +took the cars, to Hackney, and called on the Rev. Dr. Cox, who some +fifteen years ago made the tour of the United States, and wrote a +volume on our country. We then returned to London, and took our dinner +at the London Coffee House, Ludgate Hill. This has been a very +celebrated house for one hundred years, and figures largely in the books +of travellers fifty years ago. It has a high reputation still, and every +thing was excellent, and the waiting good. You cannot walk about London +without observing how few boys of our age are to be seen in the streets, +and when we asked the reason, we were told that nearly all the lads of +respectable families were sent to boarding schools, and the vacations +only occur at June and December; then the boys return home, and the city +swarms with them at all the places of amusement. We seemed to be objects +of attention, because we wore caps; (here boys all wear hats;) and then +our gilt buttons on blue jackets led many to suppose that we were +midshipmen. The omnibuses are very numerous, and each one has a +conductor, who stands on a high step on the left side of the door, +watching the sidewalks and crying out the destination of the "bus," as +the vehicle is called. There is a continual cry, "Bank, bank," "Cross, +cross," "City, city," &c. I must not forget to tell you one thing; and +that is, London is the place to make a sight-seeing boy very tired, and +I am quite sure that, in ten minutes, I shall be unable to do what I can +now very heartily, viz., assure you that + +I am yours, affectionately, + +GEORGE. + + + + +Letter 5. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +After passing a day or two in a general view of the city, and making +some preliminary arrangements for our future movements, we all called +upon Mr. Lawrence, the minister of our country at the court of St. +James, which expression refers to the appellation of the old palace of +George III. Mr. Lawrence resides in Piccadilly, opposite the St. James's +Park, in a very splendid mansion, which he rents from an English +nobleman, all furnished. We were very kindly received by his excellency, +who expressed much pleasure at seeing his young countrymen coming +abroad, and said he was fond of boys, and liked them as travelling +companions. I handed him a letter of introduction from his brother. Mr. +Lawrence offered us all the facilities in his power to see the sights, +and these are great, for he is furnished by the government of England +with orders which will admit parties to almost every thing in and about +London. Amongst other tickets he gave us the following admissions: to +the Queen's stables, Windsor Castle, Dulwich Gallery, Woolwich Arsenal, +Navy Yard, Sion House, Northumberland House, Houses of Parliament, and, +what we highly valued, an admission to enter the exhibition, which is +yet unfinished, and not open to inspection. + +After leaving the minister, we paid our respects to Mr. Davis, the +secretary of legation, and were kindly received. We walked on from +Piccadilly to the Crystal Palace, passing Apsley House, the residence of +the Duke of Wellington, and soon reached Hyde Park, with its famous +gateway and the far-famed statue of "the duke." As we shall go into some +detailed account of the palace after the exhibition opens, I would only +say, that we were exceedingly surprised and delighted with the building +itself, and were so taken up with that as hardly to look at its +contents, which were now rapidly getting into order. The effect of the +noble elms which are covered up in the palace is very striking and +pleasing, and very naturally suggests the idea that the house would, by +and by, make a glorious green-house for the city, where winter's +discontents might be almost made into a "glorious summer." A poor fellow +was killed here, just before we entered, by falling through the skylight +roof. He was at work on a plank laid across the iron frame, and that +tipping up, threw him on to the glass, and his death was instantaneous. +We are more and more pleased at having so central a domicile as the +Golden Cross, for time is every thing when you have to see sights; and +here we can get to any point we desire by a bus, and obtain a fly at any +moment. Very much that we desire to see, too, is east of Temple Bar, and +our Mentor seems determined that we shall become acquainted with the +London of other times, and we rarely walk out without learning who lived +in "that house," and what event had happened in "that street." I fancy +that we are going to gather up much curious matter for future use and +recollection by our street wanderings. A book called "The Streets of +London" is our frequent study, and is daily consulted with advantage. +To-day we dined at the famous Williams's, in Old Bailey, where boiled +beef is said to be better than at any other place in London. It was +certainly as fine as could be desired. The customers were numerous, and +looked like business men. The proprietor was a busy man, and his eyes +seemed every where. A vision of cockroaches, however, dispelled the +appetite for a dessert, and we perambulated our way to the Monument. +This has a noble appearance, and stands on Fish Street Hill. The pillar +is two hundred and two feet high, and is surmounted by a gilt flame. The +object of the Monument is to commemorate the great fire of London in +Charles II.'s reign. + +It had an inscription which ascribed the origin of the fire to the +Catholics; but recently this has been obliterated. It was to this +inscription and allegation that Pope referred in his lines,-- + + "Where London's column, pointing to the skies, Like a tall bully, + lifts its head, and _lies_." + +There are few things in London that have impressed us more than the +fine, massive bridges which span the Thames, and are so crowded with +foot passengers and carriages. Every boy who has read much has had his +head full of notions about London Bridge; that is, old London Bridge, +which was taken down about thirty years ago. The old bridge was +originally a wooden structure, and on the sides of the bridge were +houses, and the pathway in front had all sorts of goods exposed for +sale, and the Southwark gate of the bridge was disfigured with the heads +and quarters of the poor creatures who were executed for treason. + +The new bridge was commenced in 1825, and it was opened in 1831 by +William IV. and Queen Adelaide. The bridge has five arches; the central +one is one hundred and fifty feet in the clear, the two next one hundred +and forty feet, and the extreme arches one hundred and thirty feet. The +length, including the abutments, is about one thousand feet, its width +eighty-three feet, and the road for carriages fifty-five feet. + +The great roads leading to London Bridge have been most costly affairs; +and I was told that a _parish and its church_ had been destroyed to make +these approaches. The men of different generations, who, for almost one +thousand years, looked at the old bridge, would stare at the present one +and its present vicinity, if they were to come back again. Southwark +Bridge was commenced in 1814, and finished in 1819. It has three arches, +and the central arch is two hundred and forty feet, which is the +greatest span in the world. In this bridge are five thousand three +hundred and eight tons of iron. Blackfriars Bridge was commenced in +1760, and opened in 1770. It has nine elliptical arches, of which the +middle one is one hundred feet in width. Recently this bridge has been +thoroughly repaired. I think this is my favorite stand-point for the +river and city. Nowhere else have I obtained such a view up and down the +river. Here I have a full prospect of the Tower, St. Paul's Cathedral, +Somerset House, the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, and perhaps +twenty-five other churches! But the great bridge of all is the Waterloo +one, commenced in 1811, and opened in 1817, on the 18th of June, the +anniversary of the battle of Waterloo. Of course, the Duke of Wellington +figured upon the occasion. At this point the river is one thousand three +hundred and twenty-six feet wide; and the bridge is of nine elliptical +arches, each of one hundred and twenty feet space, and thirty-five feet +high above high water, and its entire length two thousand four hundred +and fifty-six feet. It is painful to hear the sad stories which have a +connection with this magnificent structure. It seems the chosen resort +of London suicides, and very frequent are the events which almost +justify its appellation--"the Bridge of Sighs." I love to walk this and +the other bridges, and look at the mighty city, and think of its +wonderful history and its existing place in the affairs of the world; +and I cannot help thinking of the reflection of the wise man--"One +generation passeth away, but the earth remaineth." I have never felt my +own insignificance so much, Charley, as when walking in one of these +crowded streets. I know no one; I am unknown; I am in solitude, and feel +it more, perhaps, than I should if alone upon a mountain top or in a +wilderness. I am sure I have told you enough for once, and perhaps you +are as tired of my letter as I was in going over the places I have +written to you about; so I will relieve your patience. + +I am yours always, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 6. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +All round London there are the most exquisite villages or towns, full of +charming retreats, boxes of wealthy tradesmen, and some very fine rows +of brick and stone residences, with gardens in front. I am amused to see +almost every house having a name. Thus you find one house called, on +the gateway, Hamilton Villa, the next Hawthorne Lodge, whilst opposite +their fellows rejoice in the names, Pelham House, Cranborne Cottage; and +so it is with hundreds of neat little domiciles. I think the road up to +St. John's Wood is one of the prettiest I have seen; and there are in it +perhaps two hundred habitations, each having its _sobriquet._ Since +writing to you last we have been to Camberwell, a very pretty place, two +or three miles from the city. We called on a gentleman who had a party +that night, and we were politely invited, and spent an agreeable +evening. The supper was elegant, and the ladies were quite inquisitive +as to our social manners. One gentleman present had a son in Wisconsin, +and he seemed to fancy that, as that state was in the United States, it +was pretty much like the rest of the country. We told him that Wisconsin +was about as much like New York and Massachusetts as Brighton, in 1851, +was like what it was one hundred years ago. When we talk with +well-educated persons here, we are much amused at their entire +unacquaintedness with American geography and history. I think an +importation of Morse's School Geography would be of great service. We +very often lose our patience when we hear about the great danger of life +in America. I find very intelligent and respectable persons who fancy +that life is held by a slight tenure in the Union, and that law and +order are almost unknown. Now, the first week we were in London the +papers teemed with accounts of murders in various parts of England. One +newspaper detailed no less than eleven oases of murder, or executions on +account of murders. Poison, however, seems just at present the +prevailing method by which men and women are removed. + +As to accidents in travel, we, no doubt, have our full share; but since +our arrival in England the railroad trains have had some pretty rough +shakings, and the results in loss of life and limb would have passed for +quite ugly enough, even had they happened in the west. I very much wish +you could have been with us on Easter Monday, when we passed the day at +Greenwich, and were at the renowned Greenwich Fair, which lasts for +three days. The scene of revelry takes place in the Park, a royal one, +and really a noble one. Here all the riff-raff and bobtail of London +repair in their finery, and have a time. You can form no notion of the +affair; it cannot be described. The upper part of the Park, towards the +Royal Observatory, is very steep, and down this boys and girls, men and +women, have a roll. Such scenes as are here to be witnessed we cannot +match. Nothing can exceed the doings that occur. All the public houses +swarm, and in no spot have I ever seen so many places for drinking as +are here. The working-men of London, and apprentices, with wires and +sweethearts, all turn out Easter Monday. It seems as though all the +horses, carts, chaises, and hackney coaches of the city were on the +road. We saw several enormous coal wagons crammed tightly with boys and +girls. On the fine heath, or down, that skirts the Park, are hundreds of +donkeys, and you are invited to take a halfpenny, penny, or twopenny +ride. All sorts of gambling are to be seen. One favorite game with the +youngsters was to have a tobacco box, full of coppers, stuck on a stick +standing in a hole, and then, for a halfpenny paid to the proprietor, +you are entitled to take a shy at the mark. If it falls into the hole, +you lose; if you knock it off, and away from the hole, you take it. It +_requires,_ I fancy, much adroitness and experience to make any thing at +"shying" at the "bacca box." At night, Greenwich is all alive--life is +out of London and in the fair. But let the traveller who has to return +to town beware. The road is full of horses and vehicles, driven by +drunken men and boys; and, for four or five miles, you can imagine that +a city is besieged, and that the inhabitants are flying from the sword. +O, such weary-looking children as we saw that day! One favorite +amusement was to draw a little wooden instrument quick over the coat of +another person, when it produces a noise precisely like that of a torn +garment. Hundreds of these machines were in the hands of the urchins who +crowded the Park. Here, for the first time, I saw the veritable gypsy of +whose race we have read so much in Borrow's Zincali. The women are very +fine looking, and some of the girls were exquisitely beautiful. They are +a swarthy-looking set, and seem to be a cross of Indian and Jew. Those +we saw were proper wiry-looking fellows. One or two of the men were +nattily dressed, with fancy silk handkerchiefs. They live in tents, and +migrate through the midland counties, but I believe are not as numerous +as they were thirty years ago. You will not soon forget how we were +pleased with the memoirs of Bamfield Moore Carew, who was once known as +their king in Great Britain. I wonder that book has never been reprinted +in America. I am pretty sure that Greenwich Park would please your +taste. I think the view from the Royal Observatory, and from whence +longitude is reckoned, is one of the grandest I have ever seen. You get +a fine view of the noble palace once the royal residence, but now the +Sailor's Home. You see the Thames, with its immense burden, and, through +the mist, the great city. As to the Hospital, we shall leave that for +another excursion: we came to Greenwich at present merely to witness +Easter Fair, and it will not soon be forgotten by any of us. + +Yours, &c., + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 7. + + +BRISTOL. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +As we had a few days to spare before the exhibition opened, we proposed +to run down to Bristol and Bath, and pass a week. We took the Great +Western train first-class ears, and made the journey of one hundred and +twenty miles in two hours and forty minutes. This is the perfection of +travelling. The cars are very commodious, holding eight persons, each +having a nicely-cushioned chair. The rail is the broad gage; and we +hardly felt the motion, so excellent is the road. The country through +which we passed was very beautiful, and perhaps it never appears to more +advantage than in the gay garniture of spring. We left Windsor Castle to +our left, and Eton College, and passed by Beading, a fine, flourishing +town; and at Swindon we made a stay of ten minutes. The station at this +place is very spacious and elegant. Here the passengers have the only +opportunity to obtain refreshments on the route; and never did people +seem more intent upon laying in provender. The table was finely laid +out, and a great variety tempted the appetite. The railroad company, +when they leased this station, stipulated that every train should pass +ten minutes at it. But the express train claimed exemption, and refused +to afford the time. The landlord prosecuted the company, obtained +satisfactory damages, and now even the express train affords its +passengers time to recruit at Swindon. This place has grown up under the +auspices of the railroad, and one can hardly fancy a prettier place than +environs the station. The cottages are of stone, of the Elizabethan and +Tudor style, and are very numerous; while the church, which is just +finished, is one of the neatest affairs I have yet seen in England. The +town of Swindon is about two miles from the station, and I expect to +visit it in the course of my journey. You know, my dear Charley, how +long and fondly I have anticipated my visit to my native city, and can +imagine my feelings on this route homewards. We passed through Bath, a +most beautiful city, (and I think as beautiful as any I ever saw,) and +then in half an hour we entered Bristol. The splendid station-house of +the railroad was new to me, but the old streets and houses were all +familiar as if they had been left but yesterday. The next morning I +called on my friends, and you may think how sad my disappointment was to +find that a dangerous accident had just placed my nearest relative in +the chamber of painful confinement for probably three months. It was a +pleasant thing to come home to scenes of childhood and youth, and I was +prepared to enjoy every hour; but I soon realized that here all our +roses have thorns. Of course, in Bristol I need no guide; and the boys +are, I assure you, pretty thoroughly fagged out, when night comes, with +our perambulations through the old city and neighborhood. + +Bristol has claims upon the attention of the stranger, not only as one +of the oldest cities in England, but on account of its romantic scenery. +The banks of the Avon are not to be surpassed by the scenes afforded by +any other river of its size in the world. This city was founded by +Brennus, the chieftain of the Gauls and the conqueror of Rome, 388 B.C., +and tradition states that his brother Belinus aided him in the work. The +statues of these worthies are quaintly carved on the gateway of John's +Church, in Broad Street, and are of very great antiquity. In the +earliest writings that bear upon the west of England--the Welsh +Chronicles--this city is called _Caer oder_, which means the city of the +_Chasm_. This the Saxons called _Clifton_. The Avon runs through a +tremendous fissure in the rocks called Vincent's Rocks; and hence the +name given to the suburbs of the city, on its banks--Clifton. Of this +place we shall have much to tell you. Another Welsh name for the city +was _Caer Brito_, or the painted city, or the famous city. Bristol, like +Rome, stands on seven hills, and on every side is surrounded by the most +attractive scenery. It has made quite a figure in history, and its +castle was an object of great importance during the civil wars between +Charles I. and his Parliament. This city stands in two counties, and has +the privileges of one itself. It is partly in Gloucestershire and partly +in Somersetshire. The population of Bristol, with Clifton and the Hot +Wells, is about two hundred thousand. My first excursion with the boys +was to Redcliffe Church, which is thought to be the finest parish church +in England. This is the church where poor Chatterton said that he found +the Rowley MSS. No one of taste visits the city without repairing to +this venerable pile. Its antiquity, beauty of architecture, and the many +interesting events connected with its history, claim particular notice. +This church was probably commenced about the beginning of the thirteenth +century; but it was completed by William Cannynge, Sen., mayor of the +city, in 1396. In 1456, the lofty spire was struck by lightning, and one +hundred feet fell upon the south aisle. The approach from Redcliffe +Street is very impressive. The highly-ornamented tower, the west front +of the church, its unrivalled north porch, and the transept, with flying +buttresses, pinnacles, and parapet, cannot fail to gratify every +beholder. The building stands on a hill, and is approached by a +magnificent flight of steps, guarded by a heavy balustrade. In length, +the church and the Lady Chapel is two hundred and thirty-nine feet; +from north to south of the cross aisles is one hundred and seventeen +feet; the height of the middle aisle is fifty-four, and of the north and +south aisles, twenty-five feet. + +The impression produced on the spectator by the interior is that of awe +and reverence, as he gazes on the clustered pillars, the mullioned +windows, the panelled walls, the groined ceilings, decorated with ribs, +tracery, and bosses, all evincing the skill of its architects and the +wonderful capabilities of the Gothic style. + +The east window and screen have long been hidden by some large paintings +of Hogarth. The subjects of these are the Ascension, the Three Marys at +the Sepulchre, and the High Priest sealing Christ's Tomb. + +On a column in the south transept is a flat slab, with a long +inscription, in memory of Sir William Penn, father of William Penn, the +great founder of Pennsylvania. The column is adorned with his banner and +armor. + +The boys, who had so often read of Guy, Earl of Warwick, and of his +valorous exploits, were greatly pleased to find in this church, placed +against a pillar, a rib of the Dun cow which he is said to have slain. + +You may be very sure that we inquired for the room in which Chatterton +said he found old Monk Rowley's poems. It is an hexagonal room over the +north porch, in which the archives were kept Chatterton's uncle was +sexton of the church; and the boy had access to the building, and +carried off parchments at his pleasure. The idea of making a literary +forgery filled his mind; and if you read Southey and Cottle's edition of +the works of Chatterton, or, what is far better, an admirable Life of +the young poet by John Dix, a gifted son of Bristol, now living in +America, you will have an interesting view of the character of this +remarkable youth. + +[Illustration: Thomas Chatterton.] + +At the east end of the church is the Chapel of the Virgin Mary. A noble +room it is. A large statue of Queen Elizabeth, in wood, stands against +one of the windows, just where it did thirty-seven years ago, when I was +a youngster, and went to her majesty's grammar school, which is taught +in the chapel. I showed the boys the names of my old school-fellows cut +upon the desks. How various their fates! One fine fellow, whose name yet +lives on the wood, found his grave in the West Indies, on a voyage he +had anticipated with great joy. + +I am glad to say that a spirited effort is now making to restore this +gorgeous edifice. It was greatly needed, and was commenced in 1846. I do +wish you could see this church and gaze upon its interior. I have +obtained some fine drawings of parts of the edifice, and they will +enable you to form some faint idea of the splendor of the whole. We have +to dine with a friend, and I must close. + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 8. + + +BRISTOL. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +You have so often expressed a desire to see the fine cathedral churches +and abbeys of the old world, that I shall not apologize for giving you +an account of them; and as they are more in my way, I shall take them +into my hands, and let the lads write you about other things. The next +visit we took, after I wrote you last, was to the cathedral. This is of +great antiquity. In 1148, a monastery was dedicated to St. Augustine. +This good man sent one Jordan as a missionary in 603, and here he +labored faithfully and died. It seems, I think, well sustained that the +venerable Austin himself preached here, and that his celebrated +conference with the British clergy took place on College Green; and it +is thought that the cathedral was built on its site to commemorate the +event. The vicinity of the church is pleasing. The Fitzhardings, the +founders of the Berkeley family, began the foundation of the abbey in +1140, and it was endowed and dedicated in 1148. The tomb of Sir Robert, +the founder, lies at the east of the door, and is enclosed with rails. +Some of the buildings connected with the church are of great antiquity, +and are probably quite as old as the body of the cathedral. A gateway +leading to the cloisters and chapter-house is plainly Saxon, and is +regarded as the finest Saxon archway in England. The western part of the +cathedral was demolished by Henry VIII. The eastern part, which remains, +has a fine Gothic choir. This was created a bishop's see by Henry VIII. +It is interesting to think that Secker, Butler, and Newton have all been +bishops of this diocese, and Warburton, who wrote the Divine Legation of +Moses, was once Dean of Bristol. The immortal Butler, who wrote the +Analogy of Natural and Revealed Religion, lies buried here, and his +tombstone is on the south aisle, at the entrance of the choir. A +splendid monument has been erected to his memory, with the following +inscription from the pen of Robert Southey, himself a Bristolian:-- + + Sacred + to the Memory of + JOSEPH BUTLER, D.C.L., + twelve years Bishop of this Diocese, + afterwards of Durham, whose mortal remains + are here deposited. Others had established + the historical and prophetical grounds of the + Christian Religion, and that true testimony of Truth + which is found in its perfect adaptation to the heart + of man. It was reserved for him to develop its + analogy to the constitution and course of Nature; + and laying his strong foundations + in the depth of that great argument, + there to construct another and + irrefragable proof; thus rendering + Philosophy subservient + to Faith, and finding + in outward and + visible things + the type and evidence of those within the veil. + + Born, A.D. 1693. Died, 1752. + +We noticed a very fine monument by Bacon to the memory of Mrs. Draper, +said to have been the Eliza of Sterne. We hastened to find the +world-renowned tomb of Mrs. Mason, and to read the lines on marble of +that inimitable epitaph, which has acquired a wider circulation than any +other in the world. The lines were written by her husband, the Rev. +William Mason. + + "Take, holy earth, all that my soul holds dear; + Take that best gift which Heaven so lately gave. + To Bristol's fount I bore with trembling care + Her faded form; she bowed to taste the wave, + And died. Does youth, does beauty read the line? + Does sympathetic fear their breasts alarm? + Speak, dead Maria; breathe a strain divine; + E'en from the grave thou shalt have power to charm. + Bid them be chaste, be innocent, like thee; + Bid them in duty's sphere as meekly move; + And if so fair, from vanity as free, + As firm in friendship, and as fond in love,-- + Tell them, though 'tis an awful thing to die, + (Twas e'en to thee,) yet, the dread path once trod, + Heaven lifts its everlasting portals high, + And bids the pure in heart behold their God." + +In the cloisters we saw the tomb of Bird the artist, a royal +academician, and a native of Bristol. We were much interested with a +noble bust of Robert Southey, the poet, which has just been erected in +the north aisle. It stands on an octangular pedestal of gray marble, +with Gothic panels. The bust is of the most exquisitely beautiful +marble. The inscription is in German text. + + Robert Southey, + Born in Bristol, + October 4, 1774; + Died at Reswick, + March 21, 1843. + +[Illustration: Robert Southey] + +The cloisters contain some fine old rooms, which recall the days of the +Tudors. Here we saw the apartments formerly occupied by the learned and +accomplished Dr. Hodges, now organist of Trinity Church, New York. This +gentleman is a native of Bristol, and is held, we find, in respectful +and affectionate remembrance by the best people of this city. + +Opposite to the cathedral, and on the other side of the college green, +is the Mayor's Chapel, where his honor attends divine service. In +Catholic days, this was the Church and Hospital of the Virgin Mary. This +edifice was built by one Maurice de Gaunt in the thirteenth century. +Under the tower at the east front is a small door, by which you enter +the church, and on the north another, by which you enter a small room, +formerly a confessional, with two arches in the walls for the priest and +the penitent. In this room are eight niches, in which images once stood. +The roof is vaulted with freestone, in the centre of which are two +curious shields and many coats of arms. In 1830, this chapel was +restored and beautified. A fine painted window was added, and the altar +screen restored to its former beauty, at the expense of the corporation. +The front of the organ gallery is very rich in Gothic moulding, tracery, +crockets, &c. It is flanked at the angles with octagonal turrets, of +singular beauty, embattled, and surmounted with canopies, crockets, &c. +The spandrils, quatrefoils, buttresses, sculptures, and cornices are +exceedingly admired. The pulpit is of stone, and the mayor's throne, of +carved oak, is of elaborate finish. Here are two knights in armor, with +their right hands on their sword hilts, on the left their shields, _with +their legs crossed,_ which indicates that they were crusaders. + +In every excursion around Bristol, the boys were struck with the fact +that an old tower was visible on a high hill. The hill is called Dundry, +and it is said that it can be seen every where for a circle of five +miles round the city. Dundry is five miles from Bristol, and fourteen +from Bath, and it commands the most beautiful and extensive prospect in +the west of England. We rode out to it with an early friend of mine, who +is now the leading medical man of Bristol; and when I tell you that we +went in an Irish jaunting car, you may guess that we were amused. The +seats are at the sides, and George was in ecstasies at the novelty of +the vehicle. When oh the summit, we saw at the north and east the cities +of Bath and Bristol, and our view included the hills of Wiltshire, and +the Malvern Hills of Worcestershire. The Severn, from north to west, is +seen, embracing the Welsh coast, and beyond are the far-famed mountains +of Wales. The church has a fine tower, with turreted pinnacles fifteen +feet above the battlements. We rode over to Chew Magna, a village two +miles beyond Dundry. Here I went to a boarding school thirty-eight +years ago, and I returned to the village for the first time. It had +altered but little. The streets seemed narrower; but there was the old +tower where I had played fives, and there was the cottage where I bought +fruit; and when I entered it, Charley, I found "young Mr. Batt"-a man of +eighty-six. His father used to be "old Mr. Batt," and he always called +his son his "boy," and we boys termed him "young Mr. Batt." I came back +and found him eighty-six. So do years fly away. I called on one old +school-fellow, some years my junior. He did not recognize me, but I at +once remembered him. We partook of a lunch at his house. I was sadly +disappointed to find the old boarding school gone, but was not a little +relieved when I heard that it had given place to a Baptist church. I +confess I should have liked to occupy its pulpit for one Sabbath day. +To-morrow we are to spend at Clifton, the beautiful environ of Bristol, +and shall most likely write you again. + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 9. + + +BRISTOL. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Clifton and the Hot Wells are the suburbs of this city, extending along +for a mile or two on the banks of the Avon. One mile below the city the +Avon passes between the rocks which are known as St. Vincent's on the +one side, and Leigh Woods upon the opposite one. These rocks are amongst +the sublimities of nature, and the Avon for about three miles presents +the wildest and sweetest bit of scenery imaginable. These cliffs have +been for ages the admiration of all beholders, and though thousands of +tons are taken from the quarries every year, yet the inhabitants say +that no great change takes place in their appearance. The Avon has a +prodigious rise of tide at Bristol, and at low water the bed of the +river is a mere brook, with immense banks of mud. The country all around +is exquisitely attractive, and affords us an idea of cultivation and +adornment beyond what we are accustomed to at home. In these rocks are +found fine crystals, which are known every where as Bristol diamonds. We +obtained some specimens, which reminded us of the crystals so frequently +seen at Little Falls, on the Mohawk. The great celebrity of the Hot +Wells is chiefly owing to a hot spring, which issues from the rock, and +possesses valuable medical qualities. + +This spring had a reputation as early as 1480. It discharges about forty +gallons per minute, and was first brought into notice by sailors, who +found it useful for scorbutic disorders. In 1680 it became famous, and a +wealthy merchant rendered it so by a dream. He was afflicted with +diabetes, and dreamed that he was cured by drinking the water of this +spring. He resorted to the imagined remedy, and soon recovered. Its fame +now spread, and, in 1690, the corporation of Bristol took charge of the +spring. We found the water, fresh from the spring, at the temperature of +Fahrenheit 76 deg.. It contains free carbonic acid gas. Its use is seen +chiefly in cases of pulmonary consumption. I suppose it has wrought +wonders in threatening cases. It is the place for an _invalid_ who +_begins to fear_, but it is not possible to "create a soul under the +ribs of death." Unhappily, people in sickness too seldom repair to such +aid as may here be found till the last chances of recovery are +exhausted. I have never seen a spot where I thought the fragile and +delicate in constitution might pass a winter, sheltered from every +storm, more securely than in this place. Tie houses for accommodation +are without end, both at the Hot Wells and at Clifton. This last place +is on the high ground, ascending up to the summit of the rocks, where +you enter on a noble campus known as Durdham Down. This extends for some +three or four miles, and is skirted by charming villages, which render +the environs of Bristol so far-famed for beauty. + +I never wished to have your company more than when we all ascended the +height of St. Vincent's Rocks. The elevation at which we stood was about +three hundred and fifty feet above the winding river which, it is +thought, by some sudden convulsion of nature, turned from the moors _of_ +Somersetshire, its old passage to the sea, and forced an abrupt one +between the rocks and the woods; and the corresponding dip of the +strata, the cavities on one side, and projections on the other, make the +supposition very plausible. A suspension bridge over this awful chasm is +in progress. + +The celebrated pulpit orator, Robert Hall, always spoke of the scenery +of this region as having done very much in his early days to form his +notions of the beautiful. In one of his most admirable sermons, preached +at Bristol, when discoursing upon "the new heavens and the new earth," +he indulged in an astonishing outbreak of eloquence, while he conducted +his audience to the surpassing beauties of their own vicinage, +sin-ruined as it was, and then supposed that this earth might become the +dwelling-place of the redeemed, when, having been purified from all +evil, it should again become "very good." Here, on these scenes of +unrivalled beauty, Southey, and Lovell, and Coleridge, and Cottle have +loved to meditate; and the wondrous boy Chatterton fed his muse amid +these rare exhibitions of the power and wisdom of the Godhead. A Roman +encampment is still visible on the summit of the rocks. We were all +sorry, to see such havoc going on among the quarries, where, to use +Southey's language on this subject, they are "selling off the sublime +and beautiful by the boat load." + +[Illustration: Samuel Taylor Coleridge.] + +Our favorite walk is on the downs. George seems really penetrated with +the uncommon beauty of the region, and wants to stop as long as +possible, and does not believe any thing can be more beautiful. We look +over the awful cliffs--gaze on the thread of water winding its devious +course at an immense distance below--watch the steamers from Wales and +Ireland shoot up to the city, and the noble West Indiamen, as they are +towed along. The woods opposite are charming, and contain nearly every +forest-tree belonging to the country. Dr. Holland, in his travels +through Greece, refers to this very spot in the following language: "The +features of nature are often best described by comparison; and to those +who have visited Vincent's Rocks, below Bristol, I cannot convey a more +sufficient idea of the far-famed Vale of Tempe than by saying that its +scenery resembles, though on a much larger scale, that of the former +place. The Peneus, indeed, as it flows through the valley, is not +greatly wider than the Avon, and the channel between the cliffs +irregularly contracted in its dimensions; but these cliffs themselves +are much loftier and more precipitous, and project their vast masses of +rock with still more extraordinary abruptness over the hollow beneath." +We devoted a morning to visit Leigh Court, the residence of Mr. Miles, a +wealthy merchant and member in Parliament for Bristol. This is regarded +as one of the finest residences in the west of England. The mansion has +an Ionic portico, supported by massive columns. The great hall is very +extensive. A double flight of steps leads you to a peristyle of the +Ionic order, around which are twenty marble columns, supporting a lofty +dome, lighted by painted glass. The floor is of colored marble. This +residence has been enriched with the choicest treasures from Wanstead +House, and Fonthill Abbey. To us the grand attraction was the Picture +Gallery, which has few superiors in the kingdom. A catalogue, with +etchings, was published a few years ago. You may judge of the merits of +the collection, and the nature of our gratification, when I tell you +that here are the Conversion of Paul, by Rubens; the Graces, by Titian; +William Tell, by Holbein; Pope Julius II., by Raphael; Ecce Homo, by +Carl Dolci; Head of the Virgin, by Correggio; St. Peter, by Guido; St. +John, by Domenichino; Creator Mundi, by Leonardo da Vinci; Crucifixion, +by Michael Angelo; Plague of Athens, by N. Poussin; three Seaports, by +Claude; and a large number by Rembrandt, Salvator Rosa, Paul Potter, +Parmegiano, Velasques, Gerard Dow, &c. This has been a most gratifying +excursion, and our visit here will be a matter of pleasant recollection. +I forgot to say that at Clifton, and at various places near the rocks, +we were beset by men, women, and children, having very beautiful +polished specimens of the various stones found in the quarries, together +with minerals and petrifactions. Of these we all obtained an assortment. + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 10. + + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We have while at Bristol made two journeys to Bath, and I am sure we are +all of opinion that it is the most elegant city we ever saw. A great +deal of its beauty is owing to the fine freestone of which it is chiefly +built. + +We were much pleased with the Royal Crescent, which consists of a large +number of elegant mansions, all built in the same style. Ionic columns +rise from a rustic basement, and support the superior cornice. These +houses are most elegantly finished. All the city is seen from the +crescent, and no other spot affords so grand a prospect. Camden Place is +an elliptical range of edifices, commanding an extensive view of the +valley, with the winding stream of the Avon, and the villages upon its +banks. One of the principal features of Bath is its hills and downs, +which shelter it on every side. The sides on these downs are very fine, +extending for miles, and you see thousands of sheep enjoying the finest +possible pasturage. Talking of sheep, I am reminded how very fine the +sheep are here; it seems to me they are almost as big again as our +mutton-makers. + +Queen Square, in Bath, pleases us all, as we are told it does every one. +It stands up high, and is seen from most parts of the city. From north +to south, between the buildings, if is three hundred and sixteen feet, +and from east to west three hundred and six feet. In the centre is an +enclosure, and in that is a fine obelisk. The north side of the square +is composed of stately dwellings, and they have all the appearance of a +palace. The square is built of freestone, and is beautifully tinted by +age. The first thing almost we want to see in these fine towns is the +cathedral, if there be one. I never thought that I should be so pleased +with old buildings as I find I am. Old houses, castles, and churches +have somehow strangely taken my fancy. The Cathedral, or, as they here +call it, the Abbey Church, is a noble one. It was begun in 1495, and +only finished in 1606, and stands on the foundation of an old convent, +erected by Osric in 676. It is famous for its clustered columns, and +wide, elegantly arched windows. The roof is remarkable for having +fifty-two windows, and I believe has been called the Lantern of England. +You know that the city takes its name from its baths. The great resort +of fashion is at the Pump-room and the Colonnade. This building is +eighty-five feet in length, forty-six wide, and thirty-four high. This +elegant room is open to the sick of every part of the world. An +excellent band plays every day from one till half past three. + +The King's Bath is a basin sixty-six feet by forty-one, and will contain +three hundred and forty-six tuns. I have been much pleased with Dr. +Granville's works on the Spas of England, and there you will find much +interesting matter respecting Bath. + +We made some pleasant excursions in the vicinity of this beautiful city. +We have visited Bradford, Trowbridge, and Devizes. Trowbridge is a fine +old town, and we looked with interest at the church where the poet +Crabbe so long officiated. His reputation here stands high as a good man +and kind neighbor, but he was called a poor preacher. Here, and in all +the neighboring places, the manufacture of broadcloths and cassimeres is +carried on extensively. Devizes is a charming old town. We were greatly +interested with its market-place, and a fine cross, erected to hand down +the history of a sad event. A woman who had appealed to God in support +of a lie was here struck dead upon the spot, and the money which she +said she had paid for some wheat was found clinched in her hand. This +monument was built by Lord Sidmouth, and is a fine freestone edifice, +with a suitable inscription. + +Roundaway Down, which hangs over this ancient town, was famous in the +civil wars of Charles I. Here, too, are the relics of an old castle. +Devizes has two great cattle fairs, in spring and autumn; and the market +day, on Thursday, gave us a good idea of the rural population. We have +rarely seen finer looking men than were here to be seen around their +wheat, barley, and oats. We have been pleased to see the great English +game of cricket, which is so universally played by all young men in this +country. It seems to us that the boys here have more athletic games than +with us. Prisoners' bass seems a favorite boys' amusement, and ninepins, +or, as we call it, bowls, are played by all classes freely, and it is +not regarded as at all unministerial. We are going to London this week, +and shall commence sight-seeing in earnest. Above all, we are to be at +the exhibition. When I have seen the lions, I will write you again. + +Yours affectionately, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 11. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +The story goes that Mr. Webster, when he first arrived in London, +ordered the man to drive to the Tower. Certainly we boys all wanted to +go there as soon as possible. I do not think that I ever felt quite so +touch excitement as I did when we were riding to the Tower, I had so +many things crowding into my mind; and all the history of England with +which I have been so pleased came at once freshly into my memory. I +wanted to be alone, and have all day to wander up and down the old +prison and palace and museum, for it has been all these things by turns. +Well, we rode over Tower Hill, and got directly in front of the old +fortress, and had a complete view of it. + +In the centre stands a lofty square building, with four white towers, +having vanes upon them. This is said to be the work of William the +Conqueror, but has had many alterations under William Rufus, Henry I., +and Henry II. In 1315, the Tower was besieged by the barons who made war +on John. Henry III. made his residence in this place, and did much to +strengthen and adorn it. About this time the Tower began to be used as a +state prison. Edward I. enlarged the ditch or moat which surrounded the +Tower. In the days of Richard II., when the king had his troubles with +Wat Tyler, the Archbishop of Canterbury was beheaded on Tower Hill, or, +rather, massacred, for it said that he was mangled by eight strokes of +the axe. When Henry V. gained his great victory at Agincourt, he placed +his French prisoners here. Henry VIII. was here for some time after he +came to the throne, and he made his yeomen the wardens of the Tower, +and they still wear the same dress as at that day. The dress is very +rich,--scarlet and gold,--and made very large; the coat short, and +sleeves full. The head-dress is a cap. + +We went in at what is called the Lion's Gate, because some time back the +menagerie was kept in apartments close by. The kings of other days used +to have fights between the beasts, and James I. was very fond of combats +between lions and dogs in presence of his court. All these animals were +moved several years ago to the Zooelogical Gardens. We passed through +strong gates, defended by a portcullis, and on our left we saw what the +warden called the Bell Tower, and which was the prison of Bishop Fisher, +who was beheaded for not acknowledging Henry VIII. to be the head of the +church. I wanted to see the Traitor's Gate, and found it was on the +right hand, having a communication with the Thames under a bridge on the +wharf. Through this passage it was formerly the custom to convey the +state prisoners, and many a man in passing this gate bade farewell to +hope. + +There is, just opposite to this gate, the bloody tower where Edward V. +and his brother were put to death by the monster Richard, who usurped +the throne. I would have given a great deal to have explored the Tower, +but the things and places I wanted to look into were just what you are +not let see. The old Tower of English history you look at, but must not +go through. Still I have been delighted, but not satisfied. We found the +spot where the grand storehouse and armory were burnt in 1841, and, if I +recollect rightly, the warden said it was three hundred and fifty feet +long, and sixty wide. Here, I suppose, was the finest collection of +cannon and small fire-arms in the world. We saw some few fine specimens +that were saved. Of course, we were curious to see the Horse Armory. +This is a room one hundred and fifty feet in length, and about +thirty-five wide. Some one has said that here is "the History of +England, done in iron." All down the middle of the room is a line of +equestrian figures, and over each character is his banner. All the sides +of the apartment are decorated with trophies and figures in armor. I was +much gratified with the beautiful taste displayed in the arrangement of +the arms upon the walls and ceiling. Some of the suits of armor were +very rich, and answered exactly to my notions of such matters. Here I +saw, for the first time, the coat of mail; and I think the men of that +day must have been stronger than those of our time, or they never could +have endured such trappings. I was much pleased with the real armor of +Henry VIII. This suit was very rich, and damasked. And here, too, was +the very armor of Dudley, Earl of Leicester, who figured at the court +of Elizabeth. It weighs eighty-seven pounds; and close by it is the +martial suit of the unfortunate Essex. He was executed, you know, at +this place, 1601. Among the most beautiful armors we saw were the suits +of Charles I. and a small one which belonged to his younger brother when +a lad. I think one suit made for Charles when a boy of twelve would have +fitted me exactly; and wouldn't I have liked to become its owner! King +Charles's armor was a present from the city of London, and was one of +the latest manufactured in England. + +I do not think I ever was in a place that so delighted me. I cannot tell +you a hundredth part of the curiosities that are to be seen s all sorts +of rude ancient weapons; several instruments of torture prepared by the +Roman Catholics, at the time of the Spanish Armada, for the conversion +of the English heretics. One of these was the Iron Collar, which weighs +about fifteen pounds, and has a rim of inward spikes; and besides, we +saw a barbarous instrument, called the Scavenger's Daughter, which +packed up the body and limbs into an inconceivably small space. We +looked with deep interest, you may imagine, Charley, on the block on +which the Scotch lords, Balmerino, Kilmarnook, and Lovat, were beheaded +in 1746. The fatal marks upon the wood are deeply cut; and we had in our +hands the axe which was used at the execution of the Earl of Essex. I +shall read the history of this country, I am sure, with more pleasure +than ever, after walking over the yard and Tower Hill, where so many +great and good, as well as so many infamous, persons have suffered +death. Only think what a list of names to be connected with the +block--Fisher, More, Queen Anne Boleyn, Queen Catherine Howard, +Margaret, Countess of Salisbury, Cromwell and Devereux, both Earls of +Essex, the Duke of Somerset, Lady Jane Grey and her husband, the Duke of +Northumberland, Sir Walter Raleigh, Strafford, Laud,--all perished on +the Tower Green or on the Tower Hill. The spot is easily recognized +where the scaffold was erected. + +The regalia, or crown jewels, are kept in an apartment built on purpose +to contain these precious treasures. Here are the crowns that once +belonged to different sovereigns and heirs of the throne. At the death +of Charles I., the crown in use, and said to be as old as the times of +Edward the Confessor, was broken up, and a new one made at the +restoration of Charles II. The arches of this crown are covered with +large stones of different colors, and the cap of the crown is of purple +velvet. The old crown for the queen is of gold, set with diamonds of +great cost, and has some large pearls. There is a crown called "the +Diadem," which was made for James II.'s queen, adorned with diamonds, +and which cost just about half a million of dollars. The crown of the +Prince of Wales is plain gold. + +As for orbs, staffs, and sceptres, I can't tell you half the number. One +I noticed called "St. Edward's Staff," of gold, four feet seven inches +long. At the top is an orb and cross, and a fragment of the Savior's +cross is _said_ to be in the orb. Here, too, are all kinds of +swords--called swords of justice and mercy--and vessels to hold the oil +for anointing the monarch at coronation, and a saltcellar of gold which +is used at the same time, and is a model of the Tower. I thought all +this very fine; but I was most pleased with seeing such splendid +specimens of precious stones. Such diamonds, pearls, amethysts, +emeralds, &c., &c., we Yankee boys had never seen, and probably may +never see again. I was very much delighted with a large silver wine +fountain, presented by Plymouth to Charles II., and which is used at +coronation banquets; and also with the font, of silver gilt; used at the +baptism of the Queen. It stands about four feet high. Over all this show +that I have told you of is the state crown made for Victoria. This is +very brilliant, and in the centre of the diamond cross is a sparkling +sapphire, while in front of the crown is a large ruby which was worn by +the Black Prince. Well, Charley, my boy, I would rather go to +Washington and look at our old copy of the Declaration of Independence +than gaze for a whole day at this vast collection of treasure. There is +more to be proud of in that old camp equipage of Washington's up in the +patent office than in all the crown jewels of England--at least, so I +think, and so do you. + +Yours affectionately, + +GEORGE. + + + + +Letter 12. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +George has said his say about the Tower, he tells me; and I assure you +it was a time that we shall often think of when we get back. On our +return, the doctor proposed that we should visit the Thames Tunnel, +which was not far off; and so we went through a number of poor streets, +reminding us of the oldest parts of Boston round Faneuil Hall. The +tunnel connects Rotherhithe and Wapping. This last place, you know, we +have read about enough in Dibdin's Sea Songs, our old favorite. + +Several notions about this great idea have been entertained in past +years; but in 1814, Brunei, the great engineer, noticed the work of a +worm on a vessel's keel, where it had sawn its way longitudinally, and +he caught an idea. In 1833, he formed a "Thames Tunnel Company," and in +1825 he commenced operations, but it was not opened till 1843 for +passengers. There are no carriage approaches to it, and it is only +available to foot travellers. The ascent and descent is by shafts of, +perhaps, one hundred steps. I think I heard that the great work cost the +company, and government, who helped them, about half a million sterling. +The passages are all lighted up with gas, and in the way you find raree +shows of a dioramic character, and plenty of music, and not a few +venders of views and models of the tunnel. After leaving this river +curiosity, we went to see the new Houses of Parliament, which run along +the banks of the river, in close neighborhood to Westminster Abbey. I +felt disappointed at the first view, it is altogether so much like a +very large pasteboard model--such a thing as you often see in ladies' +fairs for charity. To my notion, the affair wants character; it is all +beautiful detail. The length is about oho thousand feet. The clock tower +is to be three hundred and twenty feet high. It is vain to describe the +building, which is far too immense and complicated for my pea. I never +was so bewildered in a place before. As I think you would like to have a +correct idea of the House of Lords, I will quote from the description +which was handed us on entering, but even then you will fail to +understand its gorgeous character. + +"Its length is ninety feet; height, forty-five feet, and width the +same; so that it is a double cube. It is lighted by twelve windows, six +on each side, each of which is divided by mullions into four, these +being intersected by a transom, making eight lights in each window, +which are made of stained glass, representing the kings and queens, +consort and regnant, since the Conquest. The ceiling is flat, and +divided into eighteen large compartments, which are subdivided by +smaller ribs into four, having at the intersection lozenge-shaped +compartments. The centre of the south end is occupied by the throne, +each side of which are doors opening into the Victoria Lobby. The throne +is elevated on steps. The canopy is divided into three compartments, the +centre one rising higher than the others, and having under it the royal +chair, which is a brilliant piece of workmanship; studded round the back +with crystals. The shape of the chair is similar in outline to that in +which the monarchs have been crowned, and which is in Westminster Abbey, +but, of course, widely different in detail and decoration. On each side +of this chair are others for Prince Albert and the Prince of Wales. At +the north end is the bar of the house, where appeals are heard, and the +Commons assemble when summoned on the occasion of the opening of +Parliament. Above the bar is the reporters' gallery, behind which is the +strangers', and round the sides of the House is another gallery, +intended for the use of peeresses, &c., on state occasions. + +"At the north and south ends of the house, above the gallery, are three +compartments, corresponding in size and shape to the windows, and +containing fresco paintings. Those at the north end are 'the Spirit of +Religion,' by J.C. Horsley; 'the Spirit of Chivalry' and 'the Spirit of +Justice,' by D. Maclise, R.A. Those at the south end, over the throne, +are 'the Baptism of Ethelbert,' by Dyce; 'Edward III. conferring the +Order of the Garter on the Black Prince,' and 'the Committal of Prince +Henry by Judge Gascoigne,' by C.W. Cope, R.A. Between the windows are +richly-decorated niches and canopies, which are to have bronze statues +in them. In casting the eye round the whole room, it is almost +impossible to detect scarcely a square inch which is not either carved +or gilded. The ceiling, with its massive gilded and decorated panels, +presents a most imposing and gorgeous effect, and one of truly royal +splendor. The St. Stephen's Hall is ninety-five feet long, thirty feet +wide, and sixty feet high; the roof is stone-groined, springing from +clustered columns running up the side of the hall. The bosses, at the +intersections of the main ribs, are carved in high relief, with +incidents descriptive of the life of Stephen. + +"This hall leads through a lofty archway into the central hall, which +is octagon in plan, having columns at the angles, from which spring ribs +forming a grand stone groin finishing in the centre, with an octagon +lantern, the bosses at the intersections of all the ribs elaborately +carved. The size of this hall is sixty-eight feet in diameter, and it is +sixty feet to the crown of the groin." + +The House of Commons, which is now in the course of completion, is quite +a contrast to the splendor of the House of Lords. Its length is +eighty-four feet; width, forty-five feet; and height, forty-three feet. +An oak gallery runs all round the house, supported by posts at +intervals, having carved heads, and spandrills supporting the main ribs. +The strangers' gallery is at the south end, in front of which is the +speaker's order gallery. At the north end is the reporters' gallery, +over which is the ladies' gallery--being behind a stone screen. The +libraries are fine rooms, looking out on the river. I have no time to +tell you of the beautiful refreshment rooms, excepting to say that the +one for the peers is one hundred feet long. I must not forget to say +that in the tower is to be a wondrous clock, the dial of which is to be +thirty feet in diameter! We went to see these buildings by an order from +the lord chamberlain. The total cost is estimated at between eight and +ten millions of dollars. It certainly is very rich, and looks finely +from the river; but it is unfortunately too near to the abbey, and wants +force. After leaving the Houses of Parliament, we went to Westminster +Hall, which has some of the finest historical recollections connected +with any public building in England. Really, I felt more awe in entering +this hall than I ever remember to have experienced. I cannot tell you +the size of it, but it is the largest room in Europe without a support, +and the span of the roof is the widest known. The roof, of chestnut, is +exceedingly fine. Only think, my dear fellow, what events have +transpired on this spot. The following trials took place here: Stafford, +Duke of Buckingham, for high treason, 1521; Sir Thomas More, 1535; Duke +of Somerset, for treason, 1552; Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, for his +attachment to Mary, Queen of Scots; Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex, +1601, and Earl of Southampton; Guy Fawkes and the Gun-powder Plot +conspirators; Robert Carr, Earl of Southampton, and his countess, for +murder of Sir Thomas Overbury, 1616; Wentworth, Earl of Strafford, 1641; +Archbishop Laud; Charles I., for his attacks upon the liberties of his +country, 1649; the seven bishops, in the reign of James II.; Dr. +Sacheverel, 1710; in 1716, the Earls Derwentwater, Nithisdale, and +Carnwath, and the Lords Widdington, Kenmure, and Nairn, for the +rebellion of 1715; Harley, Earl of Oxford, 1717; the Earls Cromartie +and Kilmarnock, and Lord Balmerino, 1746, for the rebellion of 1745; +Lord Lovat, 1747; William Lord Byron, for the death of William Chaworth +in a bloody duel, 1765; Lord Ferrers, for the murder of his steward; the +infamous Duchess of Kingston, for bigamy, 1776; and Warren Hastings, for +cruelty in his office as Governor of India, 1788. + +And besides all this, here have been the coronation feasts of all +England's monarchs, from William Rufus, who built it in 1099, down to +George IV., 1820. Sad times and merry ones have been here. We stepped +from the hall into the courts of law, which have entrances from this +apartment, and we saw the lord chancellor on the bench in one, and the +judges sitting in another. The courts were small, and not very imposing +in their appearance. + +Yours truly, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 13. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +O, we have had a noble treat; and how I longed for your company, as we +spent hour after hour in the British Museum. The building is very fine, +but the inside--that is every thing. The entire front is, I think, about +four hundred feet, and I reckoned forty-four columns forming a +colonnade; these are forty-five feet high. The portico is now receiving +magnificent sculpture in relief; and when the whole is finished, and the +colossal statues surmount the pediment, and the fine iron palisadoes, +now erecting, are completed, I think the edifice will be among the +finest in the world. The entrance hall is most imposing, and the ceiling +is richly painted in encaustic. The staircases are very grand, and their +side walls are cased with red Aberdeen granite, brought to an exquisite +polish. To describe the British Museum would be a vain attempt. In the +hall are several fine statues. Especially did we admire the one of +Shakspeare by Roubilliac, and given by Garrick. We soon found our way to +the Nineveh Gallery, and were wide awake to look after the relics of +Nineveh dug up by Layard on the banks of the Tigris. Here is a monstrous +human head, having bull's horns and ears, many fragments of horses' +heads, bulls, &c., &c. The colossal figure of the king is very grand, +and discovers great art. There is also a fine colossal priest, and the +war sculptures are of the deepest interest. Then we went to the Lycian +Room. The sculptures here were found at Xanthus, in Lycia. These ruins +claim a date of five hundred years before Christ. Here are some +exquisite fragments of frieze, describing processions, entertainments, +sacrifices, and female figures of great beauty. + +In the Grand Saloon are numerous Roman remains of sculpture. In the +Phigalian Saloon are marbles found at a temple of Apollo, near Phigalia, +in Arcadia, in 1814. The Elgin Saloon is devoted to the magnificent +marbles taken in 1804, from temples at Athens, by the Earl of Elgin, and +were purchased by Parliament for thirty-five thousand pounds. They are +chiefly ornaments from the Parthenon, a Doric temple built in the time +of Pericles, B.C. 450, by Phidias. No one can fail to be impressed with +the great beauty of these conceptions. The famous Sigean inscription is +written in the most ancient of Greek letters, boustrophedon-wise; that +is, the lines follow each other as oxen turn from one furrow to another +in ploughing. + +There are five galleries devoted to natural history, and are named thus: +the Botanical Museum, Mammalia Gallery, Eastern Zooelogical Gallery, +Northern Zooelogical Gallery, and the Mineral Gallery. The specimens in +all these are very fine. Nothing can be finer than the mammalia. The +preservation has been perfect, and far surpasses what I have been +accustomed to see in museums, where decay seems to be often rioting upon +the remains of nature. The department of ornithology is wonderful, and I +could have enjoyed a whole day in examining the birds of all climates. +In conchology the collection is very rich. I do not often get such a +gratification as I had among the portraits which are hanging on the +walls of these galleries. The very men I had heard so much of, and read +about, were here lifelike, painted by the best artists of their day. I +was much pleased with the picture of Mary, Queen of Scots, by Jansen; of +Cromwell, by Walker; of Queen Elizabeth, by Zucchero; of Charles II., by +Lely; of Sir Isaac Newton; of Lord Bacon; of Voltaire; of John +Guttenburg; and of Archbishop Cranmer. As to the library and the MSS., +what shall I say? The collection of books is the largest in the kingdom, +and valuable beyond calculation. It amounts to seven hundred thousand. +We looked at illuminated gospels, Bibles, missals, till we were +bewildered with the gold and purple splendor; and then we walked from +one glass case to another, gazing upon autographs that made us +heart-sick when we thought of our juvenile treasures in this line. If +ever I did covet any thing, it was some old scraps of paper which had +the handwriting of Milton, Cromwell, Luther, Melancthon, Erasmus, and a +long _et caetera_ of such worthies. You know how much we love medals and +coins; well, here we revelled to our heart's delight. Country after +country has its history here, beautifully illustrated. The museum has +two spacious rooms devoted to reading, and the access to these treasures +is very liberal. + +If I could stay in London one year, I should certainly propose to spend +three or four months in study and research at the British Museum; nor do +I imagine that it would be lost time. It seems to me that such a place +must make scholars; but I know, by my own painful recollection, that +opportunities for improvement are not always valued as they should be. I +have been much struck lately with the thought that men of leisure are +not the men who do much in literature. It never has been so. Here and +there a rich man cultivates his mind; but it is your busy men who leave +the mark upon the age. + +While in the museum, we were shown Lord Chief Justice Campbell, the +author of the Lives of the Chancellors, &c. He is a working-man, if +there be one in England, and yet he finds time to elaborate volume upon +volume. I feel ashamed when I think how little I have acquired, how very +little I know that I might have understood, and what immensely larger +acquisitions have been made by those who have never enjoyed half my +advantages. There is a boy, only fifteen, who resorts to this museum, +and is said to understand its contents better than most of its visitors; +and a livery servant, some few years ago, used to spend all his hours of +leisure here, and wrote some excellent papers upon historical subjects. +If I have gained any good by my journey yet, it is the conviction, I +feel growing stronger every day, that I must work, and that every one +must work, in order to excel. It seems to me that we are in a fair way +to learn much in our present tour, for every day's excursion becomes a +matter of regular study when we come to our journal, which is now kept +posted up daily, as a thing of course. We are trying, at all events, to +make ourselves so familiar with the great attractions of London, that in +future life we may understand the affairs of the city when we hear of +them. + +Yours affectionately, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 14. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Ever since we reached London, I have wanted to go to Woolwich, the great +naval arsenal and dockyard, because I expected I should obtain a pretty +good idea of the power of the British navy; and then I like to compare +such places with our own; and I have often, at Brooklyn Navy Yard, +thought how much I should like to see Woolwich. Woolwich is one the +Thames, and about ten miles from the city. You can go at any hour by +steamer from London Bridge, or take the railway from the Surrey side of +the bridge. We were furnished with a ticket of admission from our +minister; but unfortunately, we came on a day when the yard was closed +by order. We were sadly disappointed, but the doorkeeper, a very +respectable police officer, told us that our only recourse was to call +on the commanding officer, who lived a mile off, and he kindly gave us a +policeman as a guide. On our way, we met the general on horseback, +attended by some other officers. We accosted him, and told our case. He +seemed sorry, but said the yard was closed. As soon as we mentioned that +we came from America, he at once gave orders for our admission, and was +very polite. Indeed, on several occasions we have found that our being +from the United States has proved quite a passport. + +We had a special government order to go over all the workshops and see +the steam power, &c., &c. I think I shall not soon forget the wonderful +smithery where the Nasmyth hammers are at work, employed in forging +chain cables and all sorts of iron work for the men-of-war. We went in +succession through the founderies for iron and brass, the steam boiler +manufactory, and saw the planing machines and lathes; and as to all the +other shops and factories, I can only say, that the yard looked like a +city. + +We were much pleased with the ships now in progress. One was the screw +steamer, the Agamemnon, to have eighty-guns. There, too, is the Royal +Albert, of one hundred and twenty guns, which they call the largest ship +in the world. Of course, we think this doubtful. It has been nine years +in progress, and will not be finished for three more. It is to be +launched when the Prince of Wales attains the rank of post captain. We +saw, among many other curiosities, the boat in which Sir John Ross was +out twenty-seven days in the ice. We went into an immense building +devoted to military stores, and in one room we saw the entire +accoutrements for ten thousand cavalry, including bridles, saddles, and +stirrups, holsters, &c. + +The yard is a very large affair, containing very many acres; it is the +depository of the cannon belonging to the army and navy for all the +region, and there were more than twenty thousand pieces lying upon the +ground. Some were very large, and they were of all varieties known in +war. + +After a delightful hour spent in listening to the best martial music I +ever heard played, by the band, we took steamboat for Greenwich, and, +landing there, walked to Blackheath, where we had an engagement to dine +at Lee Grove with a London merchant. Here we had a fine opportunity to +witness the luxury and elegance of English social life. This gentleman, +now in the decline of life, has an exquisitely beautiful place, situated +in a park of some sixty acres. The railroad has been run through his +estate, and, of course, has made it very much more valuable for +building; but as it injures the park for the embellishment of the +mansion, it was a fair subject for damages, and the jury of reference +gave its proprietor the pretty verdict of eleven thousand pounds. At the +table we had the finest dessert which the hothouse can furnish. Our host +gave us a very interesting account of his travels in America more than +forty years ago. A journey from New York to Niagara, as related by this +traveller, was then far more of an undertaking than a journey from New +Orleans to New York, and a voyage thence to England, at the present +time. + +In the evening, we took the cars for London, and reached our comfortable +hotel, the Golden Cross, Charing Cross, at eleven o'clock. By the way, +we are all very much pleased with the house and its landlord. Mr. +Gardiner is a very gentlemanly man, of fine address and acquirements. He +has been a most extensive traveller in almost every part of the world, +and has a fine collection of paintings, and one of the prettiest +cabinets of coins and medals I ever saw. He has a pretty cottage and +hothouses four or five miles from the city; and his family resides +partly there and at the hotel. The hotel is every thing that can be +desired. + +A few evenings ago, Mr. Lawrence had a splendid _soiree_. There were +probably from two to three hundred present. Among the company were Sir +David Brewster, Leslie the artist, Miss Coutts, the Duke of Wellington. +"The duke," as he is called, is the great man of England. All the people +idolize him, and he is known to be a great man. He has become more +identified with the history of England for the last forty years than any +other man. Of course, he was to us Americans the great man of the +country. Whenever I have read of Napoleon, I have had Wellington in my +eye, and to see him was next to seeing the emperor. I never expected the +pleasure, but here it is allotted me. He is quite an old man in his +bearing and gait. He was dressed in a blue coat with metal buttons, wore +his star and garter, and had on black tights and shoes. He had been to +the opera, and then came to this party. Every one pays the most +deferential homage to the old hero. Waterloo and its eventful scenes +came directly before me, and I felt almost impatient for our visit to +the battle-field. + +A gentleman who knows the duke told us that he spends from four to five +hours every morning at the Horse Guards in the performance of his duties +as commander-in-chief. Although he looks so feeble in the drawing-room, +he sits finely on his horse; and when I saw him riding down Piccadilly, +he seemed to be full twenty years younger than he was the day before at +the party. + +We shall always be glad that we came to England in time to see "the +duke," and if we live twenty or thirty years, it will be pleasant to +say "I have seen the Duke of Wellington." + +Yours affectionately, + +GEORGE. + + + + +Letter 15. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +I know how curious you are to hear all about the royal exhibition, so I +shall do my best to give you such an account of our visits to it as may +enable you to get a bird's eye view of the affair. + +Almost as soon as I arrived, I determined upon securing season tickets +for the boys, in order that they might not only see the pageant of the +opening on the 1st of May, but also have frequent opportunities to +attend the building and study its contents before the reduced prices +should so crowd the palace as to render examination and study nearly +impracticable. However, there came a report through all the daily papers +that the queen had abandoned the idea of going in person to inaugurate +the exhibition, and the sale of tickets flagged, and it was thought +prices would be reduced below the three guineas, which had been the +rate. I left London for a few days without purchasing, and on my return +I called for four season tickets, when, to my surprise, I was told that, +just an hour before, orders had been given from the board to raise them +to four guineas. I at once purchased them, although I regarded the +matter as an imposition. A few days after, Prince Albert revoked the +action of the board, and orders were issued to refund the extra guinea +to all who had purchased at the advanced price. This was easily +ascertained by reference to the number on the ticket, and registered at +purchase with the autograph of the proprietor. Of course, we saved our +four guineas. + +For several days before the 1st of May all London, I may say all +England, and almost all the world was on tiptoe. Every man, woman, and +child talked of "the Crystal Palace, the great exhibition, the queen, +and prince Albert." + +For a week or two there had been a succession of cold rain storms. +Winter had lingered in the lap of April. Men were looking at the 1st of +May with gloomy anticipations of hail, rain, snow, and sleet. Barometers +were in demand. The 30th of April gave a hail storm! The 1st of May +arrives,--_the day,_--and lo! + + "Heaven is clear, + And all the clouds are gone." + +It was as though the windows of heaven were opened to let the glory from +above stream through and bless Industry's children, who are about to +celebrate their jubilee. The queen, it is said, has a charm as regards +the weather. I heard many exclaim, "It is the queen's weather; it is +always her luck." Such a sight as that day afforded was never before +witnessed, and such a spectacle will probably never again be gazed upon. +The streets were thronged early. Every westward artery of the great city +pulsated with the living tide that flowed through it. From the far east, +where the docks border the Thames, came multitudes, though not exactly +stars in the hemisphere of fashion. Ladies in the aristocratic precincts +of Belgravia rose at an early hour, and, for once, followed the queen's +good, every-day example. The lawyers rushed from Lincoln's and Gray's +Inns of Court. The Royal Exchange was so dull at ten o'clock that the +very grasshopper on its vane might have been surprised. Holborn was +crammed at when in olden time people pressed, and struggled, and strove +to see Jack Sheppard, Joshua Wild, Dick Turpin, or any such worthies on +their sad way to Tyburn. But it is no gibbet now allures the morbid +multitude. They are gayly, gently, and gladly travelling to the home of +industry. Among all the pleasant sights that every moment delighted us +none were more pleasant than the happy family groups, who, on every +side, "push along, keep moving." Just see that mechanic; he looks as +proud as a lord,--and why shouldn't he be?--with his wife leaning +trustingly, lovingly on his arm. He, good man, has thrown away the saw, +or plane, or any other tool of handicraft, and now his little boy--O, +the delight, the wonder in that boy's face!--is willingly dragged along. +Well, on we go,--driving across what you would call impassable streets, +and lo! we are wedged up in a crowd,--and such a crowd,--a crowd of all +nations. + +At length we reach the palace gates; and there, who can tell the press +and strife for entrance. Long and nobly did the police struggle and +resist, but at length the outward pressure was omnipotent, and the full +tide of lucky ones with season tickets gained, entrance into, not the +palace, but the enclosure. Then came order,--breathing space,--tickets +were examined, and places assigned on cards, given as we entered into +the palace itself. We all obtained good positions--very good ones. This +was at eleven o'clock. At about a quarter to twelve, one standing near +to us remarked, "She will be to her time; she always is." And he was +right; for scarcely had he prophesied before a prolonged shouting told +that the queen was coming. "Plumes in the light wind dancing" were the +outward and visible signs of the Life Guards, who came gently trotting +up. Then came four carriages,--the coachmen and footmen of which were so +disguised with gold lace, and wigs, and hair powder, that their mothers +wouldn't have known them,--and then the queen--not robed and tricked +out like the queens in children's story books, so dreadful as to +resemble thunderbolts in petticoats; not hooped, and furbelowed, and +stomachered, and embroidered all over, as was Elizabeth; nor with a cap, +like Mary, Queen of Scots; not with eight horses prancing before the +queen's carriage, but in her private carriage, drawn by two horses. Off +went all hats. I wish you could have heard the cheering as the queen +entered the wondrous building. O, it was like "the voice of many +waters." Such deep, prolonged, hearty cheering I never, heard. As +Victoria entered, up went the standard of England, and never before did +its folds wave over such a scene. The entrance of majesty was the signal +for the organ to play; the vitreous roof vibrates as the sounds fly +along the transparent aisles; and we had musical glasses on a large +scale. It would require the pen of our favorite Christopher North to +describe the magnificent scene when the queen ascended the throne, +surrounded by all the elegance and nobility of her kingdom. Her husband +reads an address; she replies; the venerable archbishop dedicates the +Temple of Industry. The queen declares the palace opened, and the +procession is formed to walk through its aisles. No small task this; but +then thirty thousand persons are waiting to gaze on the queen and her +court. A ludicrous sight it was to see two of England's proudest peers +walking backward before the queen. The Marquis of Westminster and Earl +of Breadalbane performed this feat, and glad enough must they have been +when they received their dismission. The heralds, some twelve or +fourteen, in black velvet, looked finely. The queen walked like a queen, +and bore herself nobly and womanly. She is a small figure, fair face, +light hair, large, full, blue eyes, plump cheek, and remarkably fine +neck and bust. She leaned upon her husband's right arm, holding in her +hand the Prince of Wales, while Prince Albert led the princess royal. I +was sadly disappointed in the appearance of the Prince of Wales. He is +altogether a feeble-looking child, and cannot have much mental force. +The princess is a fine, energetic-looking girl. We stood within a yard +of the royal party as it passed bowing along. Then came the members of +the royal family; and then visitors from Prussia and Holland; the ladies +and gentlemen of the queen's household; the cabinet ministers; the +foreign ministers; the archbishop in his robe, and the members of the +royal commission; the lord mayor of London, and the aldermen. There, +too, was Paxton, the architect of this great wonder. It was his day of +triumph, and every one seemed to be glad for his fortune. All these were +in gorgeous court dresses. I have seen all sorts and kinds of show, but +never did I witness such a spectacle as was this day afforded to the +congress of the world. The Duke of Wellington, and his companion in +arms, the Marquis of Anglesea, walked arm in arm, "par nobilis fratrum." +It was Wellington's birthday. He is eighty-two, and Anglesea eighty-one. +The Marquis walks well for a man of his age, and who has to avail +himself of an artificial leg. They were most enthusiastically cheered in +all parts of the house. In the diplomatic corps there was great splendor +of costume, but no man carried himself more stately than did Mr. +Lawrence, whose fine, manly figure admirably becomes a court dress. I do +not think that I ever saw a collection of ladies so plain and homely as +the court ladies of Queen Victoria, who walked behind her in procession. +The Duchess of Sutherland has been renowned for her majestic beauty; but +she is _passe_, and her friends are, I think, matchless for entire +destitution of personal charms. But there was enough present to atone +for the want of this in the royal circle. Some of the most exquisite +faces I ever saw were there in those galleries, and forms of beauty that +can hardly be surpassed. I was much surprised at noticing in the vast +crowd, known to be about thirty thousand, that there were so few lads. I +do not believe there were more than ten or fifteen in the palace; and, +as we have already said, the absence of lads is owing to their all being +at boarding-schools. Our boys, you may well suppose, are greatly +pleased with having witnessed the greatest pageant of the age, and one +that can never be surpassed. We shall soon be at the exhibition again, +and apply ourselves to a careful survey of its interesting contents. + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 16. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Now that the excitement consequent on the opening of the Crystal Palace +has in some degree subsided and curiosity to a certain extent satisfied, +we are enabled to obtain more lucid ideas of this extraordinary building +and its wondrous contents. The admission for several days was one pound, +and at this high price the visitors were of the most fashionable +character. We have been much pleased in looking at the very fine +equipages that throng the roads around the park. The carriages, horses, +end liveries are in the best possible taste. When we entered, the palace +was no longer heightened in splendor by the presence of the sovereign +and her brilliant court. The superb canopy which overshadowed the _dais_ +on which the gorgeous chair had stood, alone remained to indicate that +there England's queen had performed the inaugural rites; but the great +facts of the exhibition remained. The crystal fountain still played, the +magnificent elms appeared in their spring garniture of delicate green +beneath the lofty transept, and the myriad works of skill, art, and +science lay around, above, and beneath us. I entered the building by its +eastern door, and, immediately on passing the screen which interposes +between the ticket offices and the interior, the whole extent of the +palace of glass lay before me. Fancy yourself standing at the end of a +broad avenue, eighteen hundred and fifty feet in length, roofed with +glass, and bounded laterally by gayly-decorated, slender pillars. The +effect was surpassingly beautiful. Right and left of this splendid nave +were other avenues, into which the eyes wandered at will; for no walls, +no barriers are to be found in the whole building; all is open, from +floor to roof, and from side to side, and from the eastern to the +western extremity. + +Proceeding westward, I saw the compartments allotted to our own country. +The first thing I noticed was a piece of sculpture,--the dying +Indian,--a fine production, though perhaps a trifle overdone. Then came +an American bridge, which painters were still at work upon; and then, +backed by drapery of crimson cloth, that splendid creation of genius, +the Greek Slave, which will immortalize the name of Hiram Powers. I +shall not, I think, be accused of national partiality when I assert +that this statue is, in sculpture, one of the two gems of the +exhibition. Perhaps, if I were not from the United States, I should say +it was "_the gem_." When I come to tell you of the Italian marbles, I +shall refer to that production of art which can alone be thought to +dispute the palm of superiority with it. Every one expresses the highest +admiration at the Slave, and a crowd is constantly around the spot. One +old gentleman, who was in an ecstasy over the sculpture, very sharply +rebuked a person complaining of the paucity of the American productions, +with "Fie, _there_ is one thing America has sent, that all Europe may +admire, and no one in Europe can equal." Turning aside from this +"breathing marble," I examined the American exhibition of products and +manufactures. I confess to you I felt mortified with the comparative +meagreness of our show, because it contrasts poorly with the abundance +exhibited by nations far inferior to us in skill and enterprise. Still, +we have much to show; but the useful prevails over the beautiful. I am +quite sure, too, that there are things here which will compel attention, +and carry away calm, dispassionate approbation from the jurors. The +United States exhibits numerous specimens of tools, cordage, cotton and +woolen fabrics, shawls, colors, prints, daguerreo-types, silver and gold +plate, pianos, musical instruments, harnesses, saddlery, trunks, +bookbinding, paper hangings, buggies, wagons, carriages, carpetings, +bedsteads, boots and shoes, sculls, boats, furs, hair manufactures, +lithographs, perfumery, soaps, surgical instruments, cutlery, dentistry, +locks, India rubber goods, machinery, agricultural implements, stoves, +kitchen ranges, safes, sleighs, maps, globes, philosophical instruments, +grates, furnaces, fire-arms of all descriptions, models of railroads, +locomotives, &c. You may add to these fine specimens of all our produce, +as cotton, sugar, tobacco, hemp, and the mineral ores--iron, lead, zinc, +plumbago, tin, and copper, coals of all kinds, preserved meats, &c., &c. + +I wish, Charley, you could go with me into a door south of the transept, +over which, in oddly-shaped letters, are the words "MEDIAEVAL +COURT." The very name reminds one of Popery, Puseyism, and Pugin. +This mediaeval court absolutely dazzles one's eyes with its splendors. +Auriferous draperies line the walls; from the ceiling hang gold and +silver lamps--such lamps as are to be seen in Romish chapels before the +statues of the Virgin; huge candlesticks, in which are placed enormous +candles; Gothic canopies and richly-carved stalls; images of he and she +saints of every degree; crucifixes and crosiers; copes and mitres; +embroideries, of richest character, are all here--things which the +mother of harlots prizes as the chosen instruments by which she +deceives the nations. And truly beautiful are many of these things as +works of art; but it is only as works of art that any Christian can +admire them. As I gazed on the rich tissues and golden insignia, I +mourned for poor corrupt human nature, to which alone such gewgaws could +be acceptable. How would Paul or Peter have stared, had they been +required to don such glittering pontificals as are here to be seen! +While I feel great respect for Pugin's ability as an architect and +designer, I have profound pity for those who are deluded by these +gorgeous symbols of a gloomy, cruel, and heartless creed. + +There is a large golden cage, not altogether unlike a parrot's; and +there is a press, indeed. What calls such attention from the multitude? +I join the gazers, and see what at first appears to be three pieces of +irregularly-shaped glass, white and glittering; one large piece, about +the size of a walnut, and two others a little larger than marbles. What +renders that bit of glass so attractive? Glass! no; it is "a gem of +purest ray serene"--a diamond--the diamond of diamonds--the largest in +the world. In short, it is the Kohinoor; or, as the Orientals poetically +called it, "the mountain of light." Its estimated value is two millions +sterling--enough to buy the Crystal Palace itself, nine times over. The +history of this precious gem is romantically curious. It belonged to +Runjeet Sindjb and is now an English trophy. + +Let us enter that partially-darkened chamber, and stand before a painted +glass window, the production of Bertini, of Milan. I can't describe this +extraordinary production. It is illustrative of Dante, and, for +brilliancy of color and harmony of combination, it is not surpassed by +the much-vaunted specimens of past ages. + +"From the sublime to the ridiculous," said Burke, "there is but a step;" +and at not much greater distance from this Dantean window is a German +toy stand. It is amusing to observe a big, "Tenbroek" sort of son of +Allemagne, arranging tiny children's toys. The contrast between the +German giant and the petty fabrics he is setting off to the best +advantage, provokes a smile. + +Let us join the throng rushing into the suite of rooms furnished by the +upholsterers of Vienna. These rooms are indeed magnificent, and must +afford a high treat to the lovers of wood carving. There is a bookcase, +which is almost a miracle of art; the flowers seem to wave, and the +leaves to tremble, so nearly do they approach the perfection of nature. +Then there is, it is said by judges, the most superb bed in the world; +it is literally covered with carvings of the most costly and delicate +description. Since the time of the famous Grinling Gibbons, the English +carver, nothing has been seen like it. These Austrian rooms are among +the great guns of the show, and will repay repeated visits. + +Here stands the glorious Amazon of Kiss, of Berlin. This group, of +colossal proportions, represents a female on horseback, in the act of +launching a javelin at a tiger which has sprung on the fore quarter of +her affrighted steed. This is a wonderful work of art, and places its +author in the first rank of sculptors. Nothing can surpass the lifelike +character of the Amazon's horse and the ferocious beast. As a tribute to +the genius of Kiss, a grand banquet is to be given to him by the +sculptors and artists of England. Well does he deserve such an honor. + +Close by the Amazon is a colossal lion in bronze. This is the softest +piece of casting I ever saw; the catlike motion of the paw is perfectly +lifelike. I turn back again to that Amazon. I could gaze on the agony of +that horse for hours, and think I should continue to discover new +beauties. + +The Crusader, a colossal equestrian statue of Godfrey of Bouillon, is +also very imposing. The entire floor is covered in the centre of the +avenue, from east to west, with beautiful statues, models, &c. + +We ascended to one of the galleries for the purpose of taking a bird's +eye view of the gay, busy scene; and a most splendid scene was thrown +open to our gaze. Far as the eye could reach, the building was alive +with gayly-dressed people, who, amidst statues, and trophies, and trees, +and fountains, wandered as in the groves of some enchanted land. As I +strolled onwards, I came to where a tiny fountain sent up its silvery +jet of _eau de Cologne_, and an assistant of Jean Marie Farina, from a +little golden spoon, poured on my handkerchief, unasked, the odoriferous +essence. Then we lingered to witness two of the noblest cakes, the sight +of which ever gladdened the heart of a bride. Gunter, the great pastry +cook, was the architect of the one which was a triumph of taste. The +other was adorned with Cupid and Psyche-like emblems. Then came wax +flowers, beaded artfully with glass, so as to appear spangled with +dewdrops. Then we inspected Cashmere shawls, on which I saw many a lady +cast looks, of admiration, and, I almost fancied, of covetousness. + +Down again, and we are beneath the transept. Beautiful, head, far higher +than the tops of the huge elm-trees, is a crystal arch which spans this +intersecting space. Around are marble statues, which gleam lustrously +amid the foliage of tropical plants, which, shielded from the chilling +air without, seem to be quite at home here. And in the midst up rises +Osler's crystal fountain--a splendid affair, twenty-seven feet in +height, and consisting of four tons of cut glass. So exquisitely is it +arranged that no metal, either of joint or pipe, can be seen. It is "one +entire and perfect chrysolite." From its lofty summit issues forth a +dome of water, which separates, and falls in prismatic showers into a +spacious basin beneath. There are three other fountains, but this is the +monarch of all. On either side of this beautiful production of a +Birmingham manufacturer are two equestrian statues of the queen and +Prince Albert, about which I cannot speak in admiration. Groups of +figures line the sides of the transept, and there is a Puck which I +would like all friends to look at. O, he is alive with fun, and there +marble speaks and laughs. + +We have been greatly delighted with the English room of sculpture. There +is a fine portrait statue of Flaxman, from the chisel of Franks; a very +clever statue of John Wesley; but if I were to chronicle all the +sculptures here, I may as well write a catalogue at once. But before I +quit the subject of marble, let me just allude to the Italian gallery. +There the specimens are indeed exquisite, and remind us that the genius +of art yet loves to linger in the "land of the cypress and myrtle"--in +that beautiful country + + "Where the poet's eye and painter's hand + Are most divine." + +Among the gems of marble is one which I told, you was the only possible +rival of Powers's Greek Slave. This lovely production is "the Veiled +Vesta." It represents a young and exquisitely-formed girl, kneeling and +offering her oblation of the sacred fire. Her face is veiled; but every +feature is distinctly visible, as it were, through the folds which cover +her face. So wonderfully is the veil-like appearance produced, that +myself and others were almost inclined to believe that some trick of art +had been practised, and a film of gauze actually hung over the features. +It was not so, however; the hard marble, finely managed, alone caused +the deception. Raffael Monti, of Milan, is the illustrious artist of +"the Veiled Vesta." + +One of the most interesting machines in the whole exhibition is the +envelope machine of Messrs. De la Rue & Co., of London. In its +operations it more resembles the efforts of human intellect than any +thing I have seen before in machinery. It occupies but a small space, +and is worked by a little boy. In a second, and as if by magic, a blank +piece of paper is folded, gummed, and stamped, and, in fact, converted +into a perfect envelope. As soon as finished, a pair of steel fingers +picks it up, lays it aside, and pushes it out of the way in the most +orderly manner possible. These envelopes, so made, are given to all who +choose to accept them. Opposite to this machine is the stand of +Gillott, of steel pen celebrity. Here are pens of all sizes, and of +various materials. One monster pen might fit a Brobdignagian fist, for +it is two feet long, and has a nib one quarter of an inch broad; and +there are others so small that no one but a Liliputian lady could use +them. Between these extremes are others of various dimensions, arranged +in a very tasteful manner. Something must be got out of this branch of +business, for it is only a month or two since Mr. Gillott purchased an +estate for ninety thousand pounds sterling. Here, too, is a novelty--the +model of St. Stephen's Church, Bolton, Lancashire. The model and the +church itself are both composed of terra cotta. This material was also +employed in the construction of the principal fittings, such as the +screen, pews, organ gallery, pulpit, &c. This is a new adaptation of +terra cotta. The spire severely tests its capabilities, as it is of open +Gothic, or tracery work. + +A large model of Liverpool is beautifully constructed to scale, and must +be the result of immense labor. It is twenty-five feet long, and +exhibits at a glance a bird's eye view of the town, the docks, the River +Mersey, and the adjacent places. Hundreds of miniature vessels, amongst +them the Great Britain, crowd the docks; fleets of merchantmen are seen +on the Mersey, sailing to and from the port; and in the busy streets, +so minutely delineated that any particular house may be distinguished, +numerous vehicles are seen, and hundreds, too, of pygmy men and women +are observed walking in the public ways. In short; it is Liverpool in a +glass case, and no mean exhibition in itself. + +The Thames Plate Glass Company exhibit the largest plate of glass in the +world; its dimensions are eighteen feet eight inches by ten feet. There +is not a blemish on its brilliant surface, and it is as "true" as +possible. It is placed in such a position that it reflects the whole +length of the main avenue of the Crystal Palace, and the effect produced +is superb. A Catholic bookseller from Belgium makes quite a display of +his editions of devotional works for every country under heaven; and +there, too, are the effigies of Cardinal Boromeo, Thomas a Becket, and +the late Archbishop of Paris, all arrayed in full pontificals. Their +crosiers are very richly jewelled. If the apostles of Christ could +revisit the earth, they would never fancy that these were their +successors in the work and patience of the gospel. + +Few things have impressed me more than the exquisite carvings and +elaborate work of the cabinet ware; and I must, Charley, try to describe +one piece of furniture which excites universal praise. It is a cabinet +made by John Stevens, of Taunton. It was prepared at great cost, and is +the gem of the carved work in the exhibition. The wood of which it was +composed was a walnut-tree, which, not long ago, flourished near +Taunton. In order that you may not suppose, I praise every thing too +highly, and without sufficient ground for admiration, I shall give you a +particular description of this incomparable piece of furniture. It +represents, in four beautifully carved male figures, executed after the +style of Gibbons, the periods of Youth, Manhood, Maturity, and Old Age, +whilst other four (female) figures, beautifully brought up in good +relief, are representative of the Passions. Here there was an +opportunity for displaying some fine needlework; and Miss Kingsbury, a +lady of the town, who has received from the hand of royalty a reward for +her talents, has turned the opportunity to good account, and produced +some appropriate work, displaying a skill truly astonishing. This is not +the least attractive portion of the cabinet, and, as we shall again, +have to advert to it in its order, we leave it for the present. The +carved figure of the Youth represents him at twenty years of age. The +countenance is finely wrought, and marks the innocency and candor of the +young heart; the open brow, the love-lighted eye, all exemplifying +characteristics of that period of life, untrammelled with care or +anxious thought. In his hair, well brought out from the solid wood, is +intertwined the violet, the primrose, and the cow-slip, emblematical of +the season--being the spring time of life. In the right hand of the +figure is attached a portion of a festoon of carved flowers, which +connects it with the other four figures. The left hand is extended, +pointing to Manhood. This figure denotes the period when forty summers +have ripened the man, and brought the noblest work of God to that stage +of his more powerful intellect, his keener judgment, stronger frame, and +more lasting energy. These characteristics are most admirably depicted. +In his locks are carved the rose, the lily, the pink, and the carnation, +the strawberry and the gooseberry--emblematical of the summer time of +life. In the right hand the figure receives the festoon of flowers from +Youth, and in the left it supports the frame of the cabinet. The festoon +is carried on to Maturity, which represents the time when sixty years +bring him to the period of decline. Its right hand assists, with the +left of that of Manhood, in supporting the cabinet. Encircling his brow +are corn ears and wine cups, together with barley, wheat, grapes, and +hops, the whole of which are most elaborately and finely chiselled. The +hand of Maturity points downward to Old Age. The furrowed brow, the +sunken cheek, the dim and glassy eye observable in this figure, conveys +the mournful intelligence that the sand of life is fast approaching its +last little grain. The bent form and the thoughtful brow tell that +Time, the consumer of all things, has also ravaged a once erect and +powerful frame. The contemplation of this figure, beautifully executed +as it is, intuitively inculcates a serious consideration of the value +and blessings of a temperate; and well-spent life; it induces a +thoughtful reflection that a life of goodness alone insures an end of +peace. The holly, the mistletoe, the ivy, the acorn shell, the leafless +branch, and the fruitless vine encircle the brow-fit emblems of the +period which marks an exchange of time for eternity. All the figures are +rendered complete by a carved lion's foot, at the bottom of each, and +above the feet is a connecting frame, to make that portion of the stand +perfect. Between the figures of Spring and Summer are carved flowers and +fruit in great profusion, emblematical of the seasons, and forming a +fine piece of work; it represents the all-important fact that time +flies, by an hourglass borne on the wings of a splendidly-carved eagle, +and suspending from the bird's beak are the letters, curiously wrought, +forming TEMPUS FUGIT. This rests on a globe, representative of +the earth, which is half sunk in a shell of water, overflowing the wheel +of time, and shedding on fruit and flowers its refreshing dew. The space +between the figures of Autumn and Winter is filled with carvings of the +chrysanthemum, holly, ivy, and autumn fruit, intertwined with +consummate skill and taste. The garland, or festoon, which is carried +through, and sustained, as before stated, by each of the four figures, +is composed of every flower indigenous to this part of the land, and +introduced emblematically to the time in which they severally bloom. + +Above the figures, and resting on their heads, is a stand or frame to +receive the top part, containing the drawers, doors, &c., and is +constructed in a peculiar manner on the bevel, that the eye may easily +rest on some beautiful lines from Thomson's Seasons. Over the head of +Youth, in this frame, is a basket of strawberries, cherries, +raspberries, and early fruit, surrounded with leaf work, enclosing a +panel of needlework, covered with bent plate glass, and the motto,-- + + "------ Chief, lovely Spring, + In these and thy soft scenes the smiling God is seen." + +Then follows the carved figure representing Summer. Over the head of it +is a basket, containing currants, strawberries, gooseberries, apples, +pears, peaches, and other fruits, enriched with leaf work, the lily and +the rose completing the centre. Between the Summer and Autumn baskets +and a panel are the following mottoes, each season having one:-- + + "Child of the sun! refulgent Summer comes, + In pride of youth; + While Autumn, nodding o'or the yellow plain, + Comes jovial on." + +Then follows the Autumn basket, containing grapes, pears, filberts, &c., +surrounded with leaf work. The panel of needlework next appears for +Winter, with these lines:-- + + "See! Winter comes to rule the varied year, + Sullen and sad;" + +and over the head of the Winter figure is placed a basket of walnuts, +medlars, &c. Here is the frame of the cabinet, which contains about +eighty drawers in fine walnut wood, enriched with fuschia drops in +silver, and coral beads for drop handles; the wood work is relieved with +silvered plate glass; also small doors with plate glass for needlework, +in wild flowers. This completes the interior of the frame. + +The exterior represents three carved doors, in fine relief: over Spring +and Summer is the convolvulus, entwined round the frame; then follows +the centre door, in fine relief--the grape vine, full of fruit, being +very prominent. The door over Autumn and Winter is enriched with +carvings of barley and hop vine. Between each of these doors are +pilasters, forming four female figures, holding in their hands the +emblems of the seasons, and a newly-invented glass dome head, in an +elegant form, for the protection of knitted flowers in Berlin wool. The +wood work is tastefully arranged, springing from each group of flowers +over the heads of the female figures, with mouldings to receive the +bent plate glass, and is enriched with fine carvings of fruit and +flowers. At the extreme top of this glass dome stands a beautiful figure +of Peace, with extended wings, bending over the globe, holding in one +hand the olive branch, and with the other pointing to the Deity. + +Having thus given a description of the carvings of this splendid +cabinet, let me turn your attention to the enrichments in needlework, +worked on black velvet, from nature, by Miss Kingsbury. The mottoes in +frame for the different seasons are worked in floss silk of various +colors; the inside doors--five in number--with wild flowers; and in +front are rich specimens of raised embroidery, extending to the inside, +and protected with plate glass. Miss Kingsbury is a young lady of +Taunton, who has made this kind of work her peculiar forte. + +Above the doors, also, are knitted flowers in Berlin wools, which fill +the dome head, and are protected with bent plate glass. Almost every +flower, as they bloom, are to be distinguished in these rich bouquets, +with which the honeysuckle and passion flower are beautifully entwined. + +Now, what think you of such a cabinet as this? Well, Charley, there are +scores and scores of objects as much deserving a full description as +this. + +The department of machinery and steam power is entirely beyond my +ability to speak of in proper terms. I have little mechanical genius, +and I never am more out of my element than When surrounded by fly +wheels, cylinders, and walking beams. + +If our friend Ike had been here, lie would have been perfectly at home; +and his pleasure and profit in this department would have surpassed any +I could experience. I have only glanced at a few of the wonderful things +in this wonderful place, and yet I have far exceeded the bounds of an +ordinary letter. + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 17. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +One evening this week we spent very pleasantly at the Royal Polytechnic +Institution for the advancement of the arts and sciences in connection +with agriculture and manufactures. There is a large theatre, where all +sorts of lectures are delivered, at various hours, upon philosophical +and other subjects. Lecturers occupy the theatre in succession, and take +up about half an hour. These are generally men of respectable abilities. +The building is full of curiosities. We saw the model of the human ear, +about one hundred and forty times larger than the natural organ. We saw +a diving bell in the great hall, which is frequently put into action, +and visitors are allowed to descend. That evening several made the +experiment. The interior of the bell is lighted by thick plate glass. A +very large number of models are to be seen, and there is much to +interest the spectator. We heard a fine lecture respecting the +experiment of Foucault, by which the diurnal rotation of the earth is +said to be rendered visible to the eye. Foucault is a young Parisian, +who, whilst engaged in some investigations with a pendulum in his +mother's cellar, made this discovery, as he claims it to be. We saw the +experiment repeated here on the same scale as it has recently been shown +at the Pantheon at Paris. A brass sphere, weighing about five pounds, +was suspended from the lofty ceiling by a piece of music wire, and made +to vibrate in one plane over a table graduated into degrees. After a few +vibrations, the direction of the pendulum appeared to be changed, as +though the table had moved round on its owns axis. + +We passed an hour at the Egyptian Hall to see the opening of the +American Panorama of the Overland Route to California. It bids fair to +make a hit in London. Last Sunday, "great exhibition" sermons were +abundant in London. Exeter Hal, the largest place in London, holding +about five thousand persons, is to be used for three months for the +performance of divine service, to accommodate the strangers who crowd +the city. We all went, Sunday evening, and heard the Rev. Thomas Binney, +who has quite a reputation. The hall was as full as it could be, but we +did not think the discourse as good as it might be. It was rather +declamatory. + +You no doubt remember how much our curiosity was excited by hearing that +Mr. Wyld was about to place a model of the globe, of gigantic +dimensions, in the great exhibition. Well, he was unable to obtain the +space required, and so he has erected a spacious building in Leicester +Square. This building is circular, with projecting entrances at the four +cardinal points of the compass. From the centre rises a graceful dome. +Here is placed the model of the earth, fifty-six feet in diameter. The +scale is about ten miles to an inch. The arrangement before used in the +construction of globes is reversed in this case, and the continents, +islands, and seas are seen on the _inner_ surface. This seems like +turning the world, not upside down, but inside out. The mountains and +land are elevated to a scale. The spectators travel round the globe on +winding staircases, at the distance of a few feet from the surface. I +went the other morning to the model, but was far less interested than I +expected. The rest of the party were not present, and are willing to +take my report. I heard that Mr. Wyld has spent twelve thousand pounds +upon his undertaking. + +We selected a fine afternoon to visit the Zooelogical Gardens in the +Regent's Park, and, of course, had a treat. I did not think much of the +gardens as far as the horticulture was concerned; but the collection of +animals was far beyond any thing I had before witnessed. There are more +than sixteen hundred specimens. The animals are finely housed, and their +habits consulted in the arrangements of their homes. We had the pleasure +to see the young elephant, only six months old, which had just been +received. It was about the size of a donkey. A hippopotamus had recently +been added to the collection, and we were sadly vexed not to see it. It +was shut up at six o'clock, just as we reached its house. George had his +luck, and obtained a glimpse of the retiring quadruped. We have been +greatly amused with the sight of hundreds of boys about town, dressed in +blue gowns, or long coats with belts, short knee breeches, yellow +stockings, and shoes with tackles, but wear no caps or hats. In all +weathers they are bareheaded. I find that they are the boys belonging to +Christ's Hospital, a school founded by Edward VI., in 1553, and +generally known in London as the Blue Coat School. The scholars +generally range from one thousand to twelve hundred. The education, is +said to be of the best character, and many of the boys belong to +families of high respectability, and it is quite a matter of desire to +obtain scholarship here. They look very funny in their old-fashioned +rig. Each boy wears bands like a clergyman. The school is in Newgate +Street, and is a fine modern edifice in the Tudor style. The front is +flanked by towers, and has eight noble windows, which are separated by +buttresses. Over one of the galleries of the hall is a fine picture, by +Holbein, of Edward VI. granting the charter to the Hospital, as it was +then called. Some of the best scholars of England were educated here; +and we remembered particularly Coleridge and our special favorite, +Charles Lamb. + +To-morrow we are to have a treat of the highest kind. We are to spend +the day at Windsor. I feel pretty well acquainted with its history and +associations, but I shall spend the evening with George in brushing up +my information. There is nothing more unpleasant than to find yourself +in the presence of things and places of which you painfully feel an +entire ignorance. If ever we meet again, how much we shall have to chat +over on our favorite topics! + +Yours always, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 18. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +It was a fine, clear morning when we started for Windsor by railroad, a +distance of twenty-one miles. The country is fine; but our thoughts were +on the castle. At Slough we took an omnibus, and rode into the town. It +is a pretty, quiet place, of about ten thousand inhabitants. There are +some six or seven streets, and they present but few attractions. The +castle is every thing. You know this has been the favorite residence of +most of the English monarchs, and the scene of many a tournament in the +days of chivalry. The castle was the work of William the Conqueror. John +lived at Windsor while Magna Charta was extorted from him by his barons +at Runnymede. Henry III. did a great deal to the castle, but Edward III. +invested it with its great glory. This was his native place. The +architect he employed was the famous William of Wykeham, Bishop of +Winchester, a man of great genius. He built the noble round tower. This +was in 1315. Wykeham built him a palace worthy of the hero and his noble +son, the Black Prince. Edward IV. built St. George's Chapel, and Henry +VII. and Henry VIII. both made important additions to the fortress. +Young Edward VI. resided here, and did not like its retirement and +gloom. Elizabeth made the terrace and other improvements. When Charles +II. was restored, he brought a foreign taste to the improvement of the +castle, and a great deal of elegancy was attempted, but which poorly +harmonized with the Gothic, baronial style of Wykeham's works. + +George IV. was a man of exquisite taste, and he employed Sir Jeffry +Wyatville to carry out the plans of Edward III. and his architect. This +was in 1824, and his immense labors have been successful. These +improvements cost two million pounds sterling. I ought to say that +Windsor Castle was the favorite home of George III., who died here. This +palace stands on a lofty chalk hill, and commands the valley of the +Thames. Around it is the finest, terrace in the world, the descent from +which is faced with a rampart of freestone extending about seventeen +hundred feet. The whole building occupies about twelve acres. + +I shall not describe all the towers, for there are some dozen or +fifteen. The round tower of Edward III. is the chief one. Here he +revived the round table of King Arthur, and established the Order of the +Garter. From the battlements of this strong fortress you gaze upon no +less than twelve counties. Prince Albert is constable of this tower. +This was the old prison, or donjon of the castle. Here James I. of +Scotland was a prisoner, and here he wrote his sweet verses and +celebrated Nature's beauties and the praises of his lady-love, Jane +Beaufort. Here, too, Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey, long suffered, and +sung the sweetest lays. We had a ticket to see the state apartments. +Suffice it to say that we went through the Queen's Audience Chamber, the +Vandyke Room, the Queen's State Drawing Boom or Zuccharelle Room, the +State Ante-Room, the Grand Staircase and Vestibule, the Waterloo +Chamber, the Grand Ball Room, St. George's Hall, the Guard Chamber, the +Queen's Presence Chamber. All these are very, very beautiful. I was +delighted with the Vandyke Room. Here are twenty-two undoubted +productions of this greatest of portrait painters. Charles I. and +Henrietta were favorite subjects with the artist. Here are several of +them and their children, and they are to be found elsewhere. The +equestrian portrait of Charles I. is a truly grand picture. You know the +beautiful old copy, of a cabinet size, which we have in the study at +home: it will please me more than ever, since I know how faithful it is. +That queen of Charles's who made him so much trouble with her Popery and +temper was a wonderfully beautiful woman. I should not soon be weary +looking at her portrait. She was daughter of Henry IV. of France. Her +fortune was hard, to lose a father by an assassin, and a husband by the +executioner. The Gobelin tapestry, illustrating the life of Esther, in +the Audience Room, is very rich. In the State Ante-Room are the most +wonderful carvings of fowl, fish, fruit, and flowers, by Grinling +Gibbons. They are thought to be unsurpassed in this department of art. +On the Great Staircase is a noble colossal marble statue, of that +excellent sovereign, but bad man, George IV. It is by Chantrey. The +Waterloo Chamber is adorned with thirty-eight portraits of men connected +with Waterloo, and twenty-nine of them are by Sir Thomas Lawrence. St. +George's Hall is two hundred feet long, thirty-four wide, thirty-two +high, and contains some fine portraits of sovereigns by Vandyke, Lely, +Kneller, Gainsborough, and Lawrence. On twenty-four shields are the arms +of each sovereign of the Order of the Garter, from Edward III. to +William IV. The Guard Chamber is a noble room, eighty feet in length. +Immediately on entering, we were struck with the colossal bust of Nelson +by Chantrey, A piece of the mast of the Victory, shot through by a +cannon ball, forms its fitting pedestal. Here, too, we saw the busts of +the great Duke of Marlborough by Rysbach, and the Duke of Wellington by +Chantrey, and their two banners, by the annual presentation of which to +the reigning sovereign, on the anniversaries of Blenheim and Waterloo, +they hold the estates of Blenheim and Strathfieldsaye. There are figures +in armor representing the Duke of Brunswick, 1530; Lord Howard, 1588; +Earl of Essex, 1596; Charles I., when Prince of Wales, 1620; and Prince +Rupert, 1635. These suits of armor are the genuine ones which were worn +by these characters in their lifetime. One thing greatly delighted +me--it was the gorgeous shield, executed by Benvenuto Cellini, and +presented by Francis I. to Henry VIII. at the Field of the Cloth of +Gold. The workmanship is entirely beyond anything I had imagined +possible for delicacy of finish. I hardly wonder that kings used to +quarrel for the residence of this artist. + +I know, Charley, you are impatient to hear about St. George's Chapel, of +which you have so often expressed your admiration, when we have looked +at the beautiful engravings of its interior, at home. It is very fine, +and should be seen to be comprehended. It is of what is called the +perpendicular Gothic style. The interior is divided by a screen and +organ gallery, into the body of the church, and the choir. These have +side aisles, and in these are five separate little chapels. Two of these +make up the place of transepts, and the other three, and the chapter +house, form abutments at each angle of the chapel. Now, I think, you +can't fail to get an idea of the building. + +The choir is filled with the stalls and banners of the knights of the +garter. Each knight has his banner, helmet, crest, and sword. + +The great pointed window was _designed_ by our countryman, Benjamin +West. The altar-piece was painted by West. Here is the tomb of Edward +IV., 1483. He lies under a slab of black marble. In 1789, some workmen +discovered his lead coffin, and it was opened, and the skeleton was in +good preservation, and measured seven feet in length. Horace Walpole +obtained a lock of his hair at this time. Here are the graves of Henry +VI., and of Henry VIII. and his queen, Jane Seymour. Also of Charles I. + +Lord Byron says of Henry VIII.'s tomb, + + "Famed for contemptuous breach of sacred ties, + By headless Charles, see heartless Henry lies" + +On the 1st of April, 1813, the coffin of Charles I. was found in Henry +VIII.'s tomb; and I think you will be pleased with an account of what, +transpired. I shall, therefore, copy a paper which is authentic: + +"On completing the mausoleum which his present majesty has built in the +Tomb House, as it is called, it was necessary to form a passage to it +from under the choir of St George's Chapel. In constructing this +passage, an aperture was made accidentally, in one of the walls of the +vault of King Henry VIII., through which the workmen were enabled to +see, not only the two coffins which were supposed to contain the bodies +of King Henry VIII. and Queen Jane Seymour, but a third also, covered +with a black velvet pall, which, from Mr. Herbert's narrative, might +fairly be presumed to hold the remains of King Charles I. + +"On representing the circumstance to the Prince Regent, his Royal +Highness perceived at once that a doubtful point in history might be +cleared up by opening this vault; and, accordingly, his Royal Highness +ordered an examination to be made on the first convenient opportunity. +This was done on the 1st of April last, 1813,--the day after the funeral +of the Duchess of Brunswick,--in the presence of his Royal Highness +himself; who guarantied, thereby, the most respectful care and attention +to the remains of the dead during the inquiry. His Royal Highness was +accompanied by his Royal Highness the Duke of Cumberland, Count Munster, +the Dean of Windsor, Benjamin Charles Stevenson, Esq., and Sir Henry +Halford. + +"The vault is covered by an arch half a breadth in thickness; is seven +feet two inches in width, nine feet six inches in length, and four feet +ten inches in height, and _is situated in the centre of the choir, +opposite the eleventh knight's stall, on the sovereign's side_. + +"On removing the pall, a plain leaden coffin, with no appearance of +ever having been enclosed in wood, and bearing an inscription, 'King +Charles, 1648,' in large, legible characters, on a scroll of lead +encircling it, immediately presented itself to the view. A square +opening was then made in the upper part of the lid, of such dimensions +as to admit a clear insight into its contents. These were an internal +wooden coffin, very much decayed, and the body carefully wrapped up in +cerecloth, into the folds of which a quantity of unctuous or greasy +matter, mixed with resin, as it seemed, had been melted, so as to +exclude, as effectually as possible, the external air. The coffin was +completely full, and, from-the tenacity of the cerecloth, great +difficulty was experienced in detaching it successfully from the parts +which it developed. Wherever the unctuous matter had insinuated itself, +the separation of the cerecloth was easy; and when it came off, a +correct impression of the features to which it had been applied was +observed in the unctuous substance. At length the whole face was +disengaged from its covering. The complexion of the skin of it was dark +and discolored. The forehead and temples had lost little or nothing of +their muscular substance. The cartilage of the nose was gone, but the +left eye, in the first moment of exposure, was open and full, though it +vanished almost immediately; and the pointed beard, so characteristic of +the reign of King Charles, was perfect The shape of the face was a long +oval. Many of the teeth remained, and the left ear, in consequence of +the interposition of some unctuous matter between it and the cerecloth, +was found entire. It was difficult at this moment to withhold a +declaration, that, notwithstanding its disfigurement, the countenance +did bear a strong resemblance to the coins, the busts, and especially to +the picture of King Charles I. by Vandyke, by which it had been made +familiar to us. It is true that the minds of the spectators of this +interesting sight were well prepared to receive this impression; but it +is also certain that such a facility of belief had been occasioned by +the simplicity and truth of Mr. Herbert's narrative, every part of which +had been confirmed by the investigation, so far as it had advanced; and +it will not be denied that the shape of the face, the forehead, an eye, +and the beard, are the most important features by which resemblance is +determined. When the head had been entirely disengaged from the +attachments which confined it; it was found to be loose, and without any +difficulty was taken up and held to view. It was quite _wet_, and gave a +greenish-red tinge to paper and linen which touched it. The back part of +the scalp was entirely perfect, and had a remarkably fresh +appearance--the pores of the skin being more distinct, as they usually +are when soaked in moisture, and the tendons and ligaments of the neck +were of considerable substance and firmness. The hair was thick at the +back part of the head, and, in appearance, nearly black. A portion of +it, which has since been cleaned and dried, is of a beautiful dark-brown +color. That of the beard was of a redder brown. On the back part of the +head it was about an inch in length, and had probably been cut so short +for the convenience of the executioner, or, perhaps, in order to furnish +memorials of the unhappy king. On holding up the head to examine the +place of separation from the body, the muscles of the neck had evidently +retracted themselves considerably, and the fourth cervical vertebra was +found to be cut through its substance transversely, leaving the surfaces +of the divided portions perfectly smooth and even; an appearance which +could only have been produced by a heavy blow, inflicted with a very +sharp instrument, and which furnished the last proof wanting to identify +Charles I. After this examination, which served every purpose in view, +and without examining the body below the neck; it was immediately +restored to its situation, the coffin was soldered up again, and the +vault closed." + +This state of things precisely tallied with the account which Herbert, +the faithful servant of Charles, had given as to the place of his +sepulture. + +In this chapel, too, is the cenotaph of the late Princess Charlotte, +who was wife to Leopold, now King of Belgium. I do not much admire it. + +The exquisite beauty of the windows, and the gorgeous splendor of the +roof, will always make this place live in my memory. The terraces are +very beautiful walks; and from Queen Elizabeth's terrace you have a +noble view of Eton College. Of course, we were pleased to see "the +distant spires and antique towers" which are so celebrated in the lines +of Gray. The college looms up finely, and greatly adds to the prospect. +Eton was founded in 1440, by Henry VI. The number of scholars is about +eight hundred and fifty. This college has produced some of the greatest +men in England, and the young nobility are generally educated here. The +college has two quadrangles, and the chapel is a fine Gothic building. +All this region is beautified by the Thames winding through the valley. +Here is the gem of villages, Datchett, where Sir Henry Wotton and Izaak +Walton used to enjoy the rod and line. No one who has any taste can come +to Windsor and not think of the immortal bard who has made so much +capital out of this place. At all events, we wanted to see Herne's Oak. + +We took a carriage and passed the day in riding through the great park, +and took our way through the well-known avenue, called the Long Walk. +This is three miles in length, and has a double row of magnificent +elms. It is directly in front of the south side of the castle, and +terminates in a colossal equestrian statue of George III., standing on +an immense pedestal of blocks of granite. Nothing can exceed in beauty +the beeches of this park, which contains three thousand acres. Immense +herds of deer are seen under the trees. Nowhere have I seen such fine +old trees. Here is a beech-tree thirty-six feet round, seven feet from +the ground! One oak of similar size is called William the Conqueror's +Oak. We went to Virginia Water, the largest sheet of water--that is, +artificial--in Great Britain. We saw the little cottage where George IV. +passed so much of his time. It is a pretty place, but it only shows that +the mind is more likely to be pleased with the simple than the grand. + +The gardener at the cottage--which I think is called Cumberland +Lodge--showed us through the conservatory. We did not much admire the +Fishing Temple, or the floating miniature navy. The scenery is charming, +and worthy of Poussin. The walk by the water, to the tavern, cannot be +surpassed. On our return we passed Frogmore, the residence of the +Duchess of Kent; it seems a pretty, unpretending place. + +Nothing would repay the tourist better than to pass three or four days, +in this vicinity. Village after village, and villa after villa, claims +the admiration of the traveller; and perhaps England has no more +beautiful rural scenery than may here be found. We had seven or eight +hours of perfect delight upon our ride; and when we reached the White +Hart, at Windsor, we were well prepared for doing justice to an +excellent dinner. Our pleasure at Windsor was much increased by the +company of a gentleman of high literary reputation, and who is +distinguished as the author of several successful works. + +Affectionately yours, + +WELD + + + + +Letter 19. + + +LONDON + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We are just returned from a most pleasant visit to Sir John Soane's +Museum. This gentleman was an architect, and a most determined +antiquary; and when he died he left his wonderful collection to the +nation, having obtained an act of Parliament for preserving it and +endowing its maintenance. We obtained a government order, and went to +the house which was Sir John's private residence, in Lincoln's Inn +Fields. Never did I behold such a sight. The house is spacious, but +every nook and corner--and it is full of unimaginable ones--is filled up +with precious matters. Here are Roman and Grecian relics; fragments of +vases from Herculaneum; and the far-famed Egyptian sarcophagus brought +over by Belzoni. The latter is made of one piece of alabaster, nearly +ten feet long. It is inscribed all over with hieroglyphics, and cost Sir +John a large sum. I shall see nothing in all Europe that will take my +fancy as much as this museum, I am sure. There are twenty-five distinct +apartments; and if you can find a square foot in the house not occupied, +you would do more than I was able to. The catalogue of this museum I +shall value highly, and that will give you a better idea than I can of +its contents. I had no common pleasure in finding here the original +paintings of the Rake's Progress, by Hogarth, the engravings of which we +have so admired. These pictures were painted in 1734, and were bought by +Sir J. Soane, in 1802, for five hundred and seventy guineas. And here, +too, are Hogarth's great paintings of the Election--a series of four +pictures. These unrivalled works of comic art were bought of Garrick's +widow by Soane, in 1823, for sixteen hundred and fifty guineas! The +collection of paintings is by no means despicable, and we saw a few +pictures not soon to be forgotten. The Views of Venice, by Canaletti, +are very fine; and there are some gems by Reynolds, Danby, Turner, +Hamilton, Lawrence, and Bird. I must tell you how they have economized +room in the apartment devoted to pictures. The ceiling is very richly +adorned with ornaments, forming arched canopies. On the north and west +sides of this room are cabinets, and on the south are _movable planes_, +with space between for pictures. So, in a room of thirteen feet eight +inches by twelve feet four inches, there are as many pictures as could +be placed on the walls of a gallery of the same height, forty-five feet +long and twenty broad. In the crypt is an ancient tomb, and models, in +cork, of tombs, at Capua. + +There are some precious _souvenirs_ of Napoleon to be seen,--as +portraits, miniatures, pistols, &c.,--a fine collection of painted +glass, and a countless lot of antiques, intaglios, autographs, and +watches. If ever you find yourself in London, I charge you, get to this +same place for a long morning. In the afternoon we took steamer and Went +to Greenwich, five miles from town, to see the Hospital for Seamen. +Charles II. built this place for a royal palace,--and a noble one it +is,--but William and Mary gave it up to the use of old and worn-out +seamen; and as England owes every thing to Jack Tar, it seems fit that, +when old and crazy, his last days should be made comfortable. A very +large income arises from the exhibition of the fine picture gallery here +to be seen. Here is quite enough to please any one who is curious, and +to gratify boys amazingly; and this you will credit when I tell you some +things that we saw. The coat and waistcoat worn by Nelson when he was +killed, on the Victory, at Trafalgar; models of celebrated ships; +original painting of Sir Walter Raleigh; Sir Cloudesley Shovel, who was +lost, with all his crew, on the Scilly Islands, in Queen Anne's reign; +Admiral Kempenfeldt, lost in the Royal George, 1782; Lord Nelson; Lord +Collingwood; and almost all the great naval commanders of Great Britain. +Then, too, there are large paintings of the great sea fights. One of +Trafalgar, by Turner, is very fine, and so is a large one of Nelson's +death. + +There is a room besides all I have alluded to, called the Nelson Room, +and which illustrates all his history; and there are, all about the +rooms, some exquisitely fine colossal busts, executed by Flaxman, +Bailey, and Westmacott. The chapel is thought to be one of the most +beautiful in England. The entire of this great national glory is kept in +the cleanest manner; and the only thing to complain of is a want of +politeness in the guides. This is in contrast to other places; for we +have found the guides very kind and civil at all other places. We have +recently visited the Queen's stables, by order from Mr. Lawrence. Every +thing was very clean and spacious. Some of the horses were exceedingly +beautiful. The harness-room made a display. The cream-colored horses +belonging to the state carriage are noble animals. I believe they are +brought from Hanover, or came originally thence. The state carriage is +an immense lumbering affair, made of carvings and gold. It must be of +great weight. The sides are richly painted. It is never used but at the +opening of Parliament and similar occasions. The queen's carriages which +are ordinarily used are numerous and very elegant, but in good taste. +One of our number--you may guess who it was--sadly wanted a hair from +the tail of the queen's favorite riding horse. The riding school is +spacious, but not much better than a private one that we know in New +York. + +We took dinner one day at Soyer's Symposium, at Gore House. Soyer is the +great master of ceremonies in London for all matters of the _cuisine._ +Gore House was once the home of Wilberforce and Lord Rodney, but is +better known as the residence of the late Countess of Blessington. It is +now a hotel. The grounds are extensive, and the trees are some of the +finest around London, and I have never seen a lovelier spot of the same +size. It is alive with blackbirds, thrushes, linnets, and goldfinches. +As you enter, you find a vestibule, which is called the cupola of +Jupiter Tonans. Through this you pass to "the hall of architectural +wonders," then to "the Blessington Temple of the Muses." This apartment +leads to "the Transatlantic Ante-Chamber," which is adorned with all +sorts of American emblems. Then there are, in succession, "the Alcove of +White Roses," "the Birth of Gems," and other rooms of great +gorgeousness. One room is the "Palace of the North," which is apparently +made entirely of ice, and out of the wall of which is issuing a polar +bear. In the pleasure grounds is a "baronial hall," one hundred feet +long, fifty broad, and thirty high; and besides this an enormous tent, +called "the Encampment for all Nations." Here, at a table four hundred +feet long, fifteen hundred persons can be dined at a cheap rate. A +table-cloth for this affair cost Soyer two hundred pounds sterling. We +had a very pleasant dinner with the Rev. Dr. Harris, President of New +College, whose works are so well known in America. The room we occupied +was "the Alcove of White Roses." The Symposium stands near to the +Crystal Palace, and accommodates the strangers admirably. That dinner +was two days ago, however; and I am reminded that another is necessary +today, and must leave off to prepare for it. + +I am yours truly, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 20. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Yesterday we visited the two great ecclesiastical edifices of the +metropolis,--St. Paul's Cathedral and Westminster Abbey,--and I will +endeavor to convey to your mind some idea of the impression which they +left upon my own. These structures are by name familiar to you, and you +have seen engravings of the mighty dome of St. Paul's and the double +towers of the Abbey. I had often gazed on these pictured +representations, but I find that they did not convey to my mind any +adequate notions of the originals. Like the Pyramids, or our own +Niagara, they must be seen to be understood. In so vast a place as +London, it is absolutely necessary for sight-seers to adopt something +like system in their arrangements; so we agreed to devote one day to the +examination of the metropolitan Cathedral Church, and of the ancient +edifice in which the monarchs of England are crowned. We quitted our +hotel at nine o'clock, and, pushing our way through the hurrying crowds +of the Strand, speedily arrived at Temple Bar. We then turned down a +dingy, narrow passage, on our right hand; this led us to the Temple, +which is like a little town of itself, and is almost exclusively +inhabited by lawyers. It was amusing enough to notice the gentlemen in +powdered horse-hair wigs and flowing black robes, like a clergyman's, +who every now and then emerged from some open door, and flitted across +the courts, each having a bundle of papers tied with red tape, or a book +under his arm. Whilst occupied in observing these Templars of modern +times, the tones of an organ fell on my ear, for we were close to the +Temple Church, one of the most beautiful sanctuaries in the world. The +early morning service was not concluded so we entered without ceremony. +Externally, the building has little in the way of architectural +decorations to recommend it. It is low, destitute of tower or steeple, +and surrounded by gloomy-looking lawyers' offices. But no sooner had we +crossed the threshold than a scene of surpassing beauty burst upon us. I +should here tell you that this edifice, which is intended for the +exclusive use of members of the Temple, is very ancient. The church +formerly belonged to the Knights Templars. It was built in 1185, and the +choir was added in 1240. For years and years the building was neglected +by the legal gentlemen; but in 1839 it was proposed to restore the +former glories of the place, and the outlay of seventy thousand pounds +has caused it to stand out in all its pristine beauty. The form of the +church is octagonal. The ceiling, sides, and altar are all decorated in +the mediaeval style. The pipes of the organ dazzle you with their purple +and golden splendors. The floor is of encaustic tiles. On the walls are +displayed the names and coats of arms of those members of the Temple who +have been raised to the dignity of judges. On all these objects the +sunshine, streaming through superbly-painted windows, produced quite a +kaleidoscope effect. The _coup d'oeil_ was almost too dazzling, and +strikingly contrasted in my mind with the primitive simplicity of our +New England churches. In this church I found that some great men had +been buried. The learned Sir John, Selden, the author of "Table Talk;" +Howell, whose old letters we have so much enjoyed together; Gibbon the +historian, and Oliver Goldsmith, lie just outside the church. The +preacher of this church is called the master of the Temple, and the +great Hooker once held this post. Having gratified our curiosity by an +inspection of this gem of church architecture, we quitted the building, +and, after a pleasant stroll through the Temple Gardens,--a sweet spot, +and spoken of by Shakspeare as the place where the distinction of the +Red and White Roses was first seen,--embarked on one of the river +steamboats, which rapidly conveyed us to Blackfriars Bridge. + +The finest view of St. Paul's Cathedral is, unquestionably, from the +Thames. When seen from the streets, only portions of its colossal +magnitude can be observed. On all sides it is hemmed in by houses, +which, pygmies though they be, prevent an uninterrupted view of the +architectural giant. But from the middle of the Thames, the cathedral is +seen in all its glory; towering above the surrounding marts of trade, it +stands out the grand point of attraction. + +[Illustration: St. Paul's Cathedral.] + +Here may be observed, to advantage, the surpassing beauty of the great +dome, which dwarfs the towers and steeples of the surrounding churches +almost into nothingness. The general aspect of the cathedral is said to +resemble St. Peter's, at Rome, but the symmetry of the dome of the +latter is acknowledged to be less beautiful than that of its London +rival. + +We landed at Blackfriars Bridge Stairs; and, after ascending Ludgate +Hill, arrived at the great northern door of the cathedral. In reply to +the rap of our knuckles at the huge portals, it slowly swung back on its +hinges, and a grim, surly-looking face appeared. The figure which +belonged to the face was clad in a rusty and seedy black robe, from +beneath which a hand was thrust forth, and the words, "two-pence each," +sounded harshly on our ears. Two-pence each was accordingly paid, and +then the surly janitor, or verger, as he is called, admitted us within +the building. In a moment afterwards, we were beneath the dome of St. +Paul's. If this part of the edifice has appeared imposing when viewed +from without, how much grander did it seem now that we stood on the +marble pavement below, and gazed upward into the vast concave which the +genius of Sir Christopher Wren had designed. The scene to my mind was +most impressive, and the impressiveness was heightened by a continuous +dull roar, which never ceased for a moment. This ceaseless noise was +produced by the numerous carriages passing and repassing without. The +concavity of the dome, I suppose, condensed the sound into a subdued +thunder, like that which one hears at a short distance from the Falls +of Niagara. Against the huge pillars, and in various niches, were the +statues of eminent men; some of them erected by the nation, as a +commemoration of naval or military services, and others as tributes to +great personal worth, or to public benefactors. Among the statues of the +men of peace, that of Dr. Samuel Johnson, the great lexicographer, +particularly interested me. The celebrated moralist is represented +seated. One hand holds a scroll, the other rests upon a pedestal. The +likeness is said to be well preserved. The sculptor was Bacon. There was +the capacious forehead, the thick bushy eyebrows, the large mouth, the +double chin, the clumsy person, and the thick, ungainly legs, which had +been rendered familiar to me through the portraits which I had seen in +the Johnsonia. As I gazed on that marble tribute to genius and worth, I +could not but remember, Charley, how Johnson had frequently walked the +streets of London all night, because he had not the wherewithal to pay +for a lodging. Near to Johnson's monument was that of Howard the +philanthropist. We noticed a very fine one to Sir Joshua Reynolds; also +statues to Bishop Heber, Abercrombie, Cornwallis, Sir John Moore, Sir +Astley Cooper, Sir Thomas Lawrence, and Benjamin West. + +[Illustration: Dr. Samuel Johnson.] + +But the greatest attraction of St. Paul's is the sarcophagus, in which +repose the remains of England's greatest naval hero, Lord Nelson. +Situated immediately beneath the centre of the great dome is a +diamond-shaped tablet, which marks the spot beneath which rests, after +his career of glory, the hero of the Nile and Trafalgar. His body rests +in a sarcophagus in the vaults below. Exactly beneath the tablet lies +the huge coffin, with the name "NELSON" engraven on its side. +No epitaph, no labored panegyric, no fulsome praise; and Englishmen, I +think, were right in supposing that the simple name of their hero was +enough for fame. This sarcophagus was made by Cardinal Wolsey; and here +Nelson was placed, in a coffin made out of the mainmast of the French +ship, L'Orient. + +The grim verger recommended us to ascend to the dome, and, after paying +fresh fees, we mounted an enormously long and steep-winding staircase, +which led us to the base of the dome. Here was a circular gallery, +surrounded with a railing. Scarcely had we entered this gallery, when +the attendant purposely slammed the entrance door, and immediately a +loud peal, as of thunder, reverberated through the vast building; then +he requested us to listen whilst he whispered against the smooth wall +directly opposite to us. The effect was startling; every word was as +distinct as though the speaker's lips had been close to my ear. This is +known as the Whispering Gallery, and is one of the great lions of the +place. + +We now prepared to ascend still higher, and, after a tedious journey, +arrived at the gilded gallery, which surmounts the dome. From hence we +enjoyed a magnificent view of London, for, fortunately, the atmosphere +was comparatively clear, and the everlasting canopy of smoke which +overhangs London was not so dense as usual. Spread out before us lay the +great wilderness of brick and mortar, through which the shining Thames, +like a huge snake, pursued its sinuous course, spanned at intervals by +bridges, and bearing, on its broad bosom the gathered treasures of many +a far-distant nation. The streets, diminished to mere lanes, looked +alive with Lilliputians; miniature horses and carriages appeared like so +many German automaton toys which had been wound up and set a-going. Far +away to the westward patches of green, studded with trees, denoted the +parks, in one of which glittered the glass roof and sides of the Crystal +Palace; and still more remote were glimpses of the free, fresh, open +country, along which, at intervals, would rush railway trains, bearing +hundreds of passengers to various parts of England. Above my head +glittered, in the brilliant sunshine, the ball and cross which, at a +height of four hundred and four feet, stands proudly over London, and +may be seen from various parts of the metropolis. Another fee secured +our passage to the interior of this globe of gilded copper, and which is +about six feet in diameter, and will hold several persons. To reach it, +I had to ascend a ladder and creep through an aperture at the bottom of +the sphere. This was not worth the labor, but then we could say we had +attained the highest point of the cathedral. I hear that ladies +sometimes venture into the ball; if so, their timidity is insufficient +to baffle their curiosity. This accomplished, we retraced our steps, and +visited the portion of St. Paul's in which divine service is performed. +About a dozen boys, dressed in white surplices, were chanting sweetly; a +dull-looking clergyman read the service indifferently; and a score of +poor people, with one or two well-dressed persons, formed the +congregation. We then departed for Westminster Abbey, which must form +the subject of another letter. + +Yours affectionately, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 21. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +What shall I tell you about Westminster Abbey? I hope I may be able to +say enough to make you long to see it, and determine you to read all you +can about it. By the way, I have satisfied myself that I can learn the +best things about such places by carefully reading good histories and +examining the best engravings. This abbey claims to have been built, in +616, by a Saxon king. It was enlarged by Edgar and Edward the Confessor, +and was rebuilt as it now appears by Henry III. and Edward I. In this +church all the sovereigns of England have been crowned, from Edward the +Confessor down to Victoria; and not a few of them have been buried here. +The architecture, excepting Henry VII.'s Chapel; is of the early +English school. Henry's chapel is of the perpendicular Gothic. The +western towers were built by Sir Christopher Wren. + +We entered at the door leading to the Poet's Corner. We gazed with +interest on the monuments of Chatham, Pitt, Fox, and Canning, Prince +Rupert, Monk, Chaucer, Spenser, Beaumont, Fletcher, Ben Jonson, Cowley, +Dryden, Dr. Watts, Addison, Gay, Sheridan, and Campbell. Here, too, are +tablets to Barrow, South, Garrick, Handel, Clarendon, Bishop Atterbury, +Sir Isaac Newton, and old Parr, who died at the age of one hundred and +fifty-two. + +[Illustration: Poets' Corner, Westminster Abbey.] + +The associations of this building are every thing to the stranger. I +will just give you a list of names of the kings and queens buried +here--Sebert, Edward the Confessor, Henry III., Edward I., Queen +Eleanor, Edward III. and his queen, Philippa, Richard II. and his queen, +Henry V., Henry VII. and his queen, Ann of Cleves, queen of Henry VIII., +Edward VI., Bloody Mary, Mary, Queen of Scots, Queen Elizabeth, James I. +and his queen, Queen of Bohemia, Charles II., William III. and Mary, +Queen Anne, George II. and Queen Caroline. + +We took the circuit of the chapels, beginning with St. Benedict. Here +many eminent churchmen have been interred. The next is St. Edmond's, +which contains twenty monuments; the monument of the Earl of Pembroke, +brother of Henry III.; he died 1298. Here, too, are tombs of children of +Edward II. and Edward III. I noticed a very fine brass monument, which +represents a Duchess of Gloucester in her dress as a nun, dated 1399. +There is, too, the effigy of the Duchess of Suffolk, mother of poor Lady +Jane Grey. The third is St. Nicholas's Chapel, where is seen Lord +Burleigh's monument. The fourth is the Virgin Mary's Chapel, called +Henry VII.'s Chapel, and the ascent to which is by twelve or fourteen +steps. This glorious room consists of a central aisle, with five small +chapels and two side aisles. Here you see the stalls and banners of the +Knights of the Bath, who were formerly installed in this chapel. The +altar tomb of Henry VII. is truly beautiful; Lord Bacon said, "It is one +of the costliest and daintiest tombs in Europe." Here are tombs of his +mother, and the mother of Lord George Darnley, and Mary, Queen of Scots, +and the Duke of Buckingham, Queen Elizabeth, and Queen Mary. Here, too, +is a sarcophagus, which is supposed to contain the remains of Edward V. +and the Duke of York, discovered in the Tower in the seventeenth +century, in a box. Charles II., William and Mary, and Queen Anne are in +a vault on the south aisle. George II. and his queen, Caroline, lie +together, a side being taken out of each coffin. The fifth chapel is St. +Paul's. The most striking object here is a colossal portrait statue of +James Watt, the great steam-engine perfecter, if not inventor. This is +by Chantrey, and cost six thousand pounds, and seems quite out of place. +Archbishop Usher lies in this chapel. The sixth chapel, called Edward +the Confessor's, pleased me greatly. In the centre is the shrine of the +monarch saint; it is rich in mosaic adornments. The altar tomb of Henry +III. is very grand, and there is a noble bronze statue of the king. +Edward I. is here, and in 1774 his body was found almost entire. Edward +III. and Philippa, his queen, have tombs. Here, too, was Henry V., the +hero of Agincourt, Richard II. and queen. We were delighted with the two +coronation chairs; in one is the old stone of Scone, on which the early +Scotch kings used to be crowned. Edward I. carried it off, and it has +ever since figured in English coronations. It is a large piece of red +and gray sandstone, and claims to have been the veritable pillow on +which Jacob slept. The seventh chapel is that of St. Erasmus, and leads +to the eighth, which is John the Baptist's. Here rest the early abbots +of the church. It contains a very fine monument to Lord Hunsdon, +chamberlain to Queen Bess. Just outside, in the aisle, we found the +noble monument to General Wolfe, and the celebrated work of Roubilliac +in memory of Mrs. Nightingale, where death is seen throwing his dart at +the wife, who falls into her husband's arms. + +All over this noble abbey did we wander again and again in repeated +visits, and admire the finest statuary we have ever seen. Roubilliac was +a wonderful genius, and his monument to Sir Peter Warren is exquisite. +The works of Bacon, Flaxman, Nollekins, Chantrey, and Westmacott have +made me in love with statuary; and I long to see the great works which +are to be seen on the continent. + +Many of the tablets and statues are only honorary, as the persons +commemorated were not buried here; as Shakspeare, Southey, Thomson, +Goldsmith, Dr. Watts, &c. I could spend hours looking at Roubilliac's +monument for the Duke of Argyle and his statue for Handel. + +We attended divine service one Sunday afternoon, and heard a very fine +sermon from Lord John Thynne. The abbey was crowded; the music the best +I ever heard in a church; the preacher was quite eloquent; and Dr. C. +observed that it was the most evangelical sermon he had heard in +England. The subject was on justification by faith: + +I may forget many things that I shall see on our travels, but I think +that this abbey will never vanish from my recollection. I shall always +remember the very position of these great works of art and genius; and I +am more than repaid for all the labor of a voyage. + +Yours affectionately, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 22. + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +No one comes to London without being told by every one to go and see the +parks; so we have been to see these fine breathing places. Hyde Park is +about four hundred acres, and has as many as half a dozen great +entrances. Its position is high, and it is the great drive of the people +of fashion. If you want to see London, you must come here on a fine +summer day in June, at about four o'clock, and you will gaze on the +finest and gayest equipages of England. A very pretty piece of water is +in this park, which is called "the Serpentine River." The best skating +of London is to be seen here, we are told, in hard winters. The entrance +from Piccadilly is by a fine threefold arch. Here is the great Achilles +of bronze, in honor of Wellington, made out of the cannon which the duke +captured in Spain. St. James's and the Green Park: this is the oldest in +London, and was made by Henry VIII. A fine arch affords entrance from +Piccadilly, having a bronze colossal equestrian statue of the Duke of +Wellington. You get grand views of the Abbey towers, Buckingham Palace, +the York Column, and other objects of interest. The two parks are about +one hundred and fifty acres. Regent's Park is one of the most +attractive spots in this great city. Here are villas of the finest kind. +Some of the prettiest terraces and rows of houses about London are here +to be seen. This park contains nearly five hundred acres, and, among +other attractions, the Botanical and Zooelogical Gardens, and the +Coliseum. Victoria Park, near Bethnal Green, is a new one, of about +three hundred acres; but we did not visit it. + +Besides these, there are more than thirty squares, some of which are +very beautiful, and are finely planted and adorned. Belgrave Square is +exceedingly rich in its appearance; the houses are built in the +Corinthian order. + +Northumberland House, at Charing Cross, is the city residence of the +Duke of Northumberland. This, externally, has no great beauty, but is +surmounted by the lion of the Percy family. It was built in 1605. This +noble mansion has been politely opened by its proprietor to the visits +of the foreigners who are here at the exhibition. It is a princely +mansion; and, although we had recently been to Windsor, and seen the +royal residence, yet we thought this palace home almost regal in its +splendor. The staircase is splendid, and the apartments are very +magnificent. The hall and drawing-rooms are quite equal, in decorations +and paintings, to the rooms at Windsor. We were much pleased with two +large pictures--a fox and deer hunt, by Snyders; but there were so +many, that it is difficult to single out those we admired. There are +some beautiful paintings of Napoleon, and exquisite carvings in ivory. +In one of the saloons we were all struck with a large Sevres china vase, +presented to the Duke of Northumberland by Charles X., at his +coronation, at which occasion the duke was present as ambassador +extraordinary, and made a most astonishing display of English wealth and +liberality. + +Sion House, near Brentford, is another palace belonging to the duke. +This noble mansion is on the banks of the Thames, and is composed of +freestone. It is very gorgeously furnished, and the hothouses and +conservatories are not much, if any, inferior to Chatsworth. This +mansion has also, been opened to visitors from abroad, and we received +orders from the minister. + +One of the sweetest features about the metropolis, to my taste, is the +vast number of charming villages that surround it. Go where you may, you +fall in with cottages, villas, and mansions, that convey to the mind the +ideas of comfort, elegance, and wealth. + +I find from Weld that he forgot to tell you that we went to St. +Margaret's Church, which stands only a few yards off from Westminster +Abbey. This is a very old building, and said to be of the days of Edward +I. In this very building the celebrated fast-day sermons of the Long +Parliament were preached, and I felt much interest in thinking how often +Cromwell, Pym, Peters, and Harrison had worshipped God in that house. In +this church, too, the Assembly of Divines worshipped, and also the +Scotch commissioners, and took the covenant. This church boasts a +painted window of exquisite beauty, which came as a present, from +Holland, to Henry VII.; and the historical associations of this window +are very curious, and well worth your reading about. The monuments of +this sanctuary are far from being devoid of interest. I may name, among +others, those to Caxton, Sir Walter Raleigh, Sir James Harrington, +author of the great book, "Oceana," the wife of Milton, the mother of +Cromwell, all of whom are here interred. + +While I am speaking of churches, let me tell you that, close by our +hotel, is a very fine one, that pleases me exceedingly. It is called St. +Martin's-in-the-Fields, but is at present quite central as it regards +the metropolis. I think the portico is to my eye equal to any piece of +architecture in London. It was built in 1726. A church stood here for +many centuries; and in 1680, Baxter said that forty thousand people of +the parish could not get into the church; and he adds that they "lived +like Americans, without hearing a sermon for many years." This church +has an exquisite chime of bells, and they very much amused me every +morning. + +Yours affectionately, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 23. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +I have not written you for some time. But today I have seen a number of +things which I am sure you would be pleased with, and so I will tell you +about them. Early in the morning we went to see the Mansion House. This +is the dwelling-house of the lord mayor of London. It is a fine-looking +building, but has a queer upper story, with small windows, which look +badly, over the noble pillars and portico. The great room used for +public occasions is the Egyptian Hall, for what reason does not appear +from any thing about it. Here the lord mayor has his great feasts. I +should like to be in London on the 9th of November, which is his day of +inauguration; and this is the great day for Londoners. He rides in a +large carved gilt carriage. I believe he goes to Westminster by water, +in a splendid barge, and comes back in his coach. The salary is eight +thousand pounds; but the expenses are beyond this amount, and some +persons refuse to serve, and pay a fine of five hundred pounds; but +this is a rare case, and enough are ready to pay for the honor. In the +city the mayor ranks before the royal family. The title of "your +lordship" ceases at the expiration of his office. + +Our next visit was to the Royal Exchange, a very noble quadrangle, which +was finished in 1844. It stands finely between the Bank of England and +the Mansion House, and in front there is a sort of open space, or +widening of the streets. This is the third building which has occupied +the same spot--the two earlier ones were both burnt down. The original +Exchange was built by Sir Thomas Gresham, and opened by Queen Elizabeth +in 1570. It was copied from the famous Burse at Antwerp, which still +stands. It is singular that, in the great fires of 1666 and 1838, the +statue of Sir Thomas Gresham escaped uninjured. The Exchange is built of +Portland stone, and already has acquired, from the smoke of London, a +venerable tinge. The portico, I am told, is the largest in the kingdom; +but the one at St. Martin's Church I like better. Crossing over the +road, we were at the Bank of England. This is a truly immense affair. +The walls measure fourteen hundred and sixty feet. It wad built in 1734, +but has had many alterations and additions, and now covers four acres. +We did not go into it. + +The docks of London are among the attractions of the place. They are +called St. Catharine's, London, East India, West India, Commercial, &c. +These are tar too great an affair for me to describe; and to look at +them, and then think of writing an account, is very much like a small +boy opening a book of mathematics and trying to understand it. What do +you think of the tobacco warehouse, at the docks covering five acres? +Then the tea in bonded warehouses was worth twenty-five millions of +dollars; and there are ten millions of pounds of pepper, six millions of +gallons of wine, and other things in proportion. I inquired about the +shipping, and was told that there were about four thousand seven hundred +and fifty vessels, and eighty thousand seamen, employed in the foreign +commerce of the city; and beyond all this, twenty-one thousand coasting +vessels, averaging five or six men to each craft. Nothing in London +amazes us like these docks. Here you see Malays, Turks, Lascars, +Chinese, Russians, Portuguese, Dutch, French, Negroes, and men of all +nations. + +We went several times to walk through Covent Garden Market, and to see +it to advantage you must go very early in the morning. The supply of +fruits and flowers is perfectly astonishing, and the perfume is very +fine. You little imagine, Charley, the prices that early vegetables and +fruits fetch. A cucumber and onion, wrapped up in grape leaves, will, +in February, March, and early part of April, find purchasers at two, +three, and four dollars. Strawberries, peaches, and pines are sold in +early season at what we should think "awful" prices. The hothouse grapes +are very beautiful, and the vegetable productions are more carefully +raised, and in greater variety, than with us. If you want to know all +about Covent Garden Market, you must read Mayhew on London Labor--a nice +book. + +We boys had a treat the other day at an autograph collector's. His +collection was large and rare, but his prices very high. I have saved a +catalogue for you. + +To-morrow we are off for the continent, and we are very busy in making +our arrangements; so I must close. Our next will be from _La Belle +France._ + +Yours affectionately, + +GEORGE. + + + + +Letter 24. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +On a fine morning we left London, by rail, for Dover, in company with +the Rev. Dr. Murray, of New Jersey, and Dr. Chetwood, who made quite a +pleasant addition to our party. On reaching Dover, we were gratified +with the commanding position of the castle, which stands upon the white +chalky cliffs so celebrated by Shakspeare. The town lies in a charming +valley. Dover boasts of high antiquity. The Saxons and Romans both left +enduring memorials of their residence. Its importance was felt at a very +early day, on account of its being the best and authorized port to carry +on intercourse with France. Dover Castle was a strong fortification when +William the Conqueror landed. We found a steamer ready to start, and in +a few minutes were all on board. The Straits of Dover are but twenty-one +miles wide; and yet, in this short passage of barely two hours, we all +suffered sadly from sea sickness. The boat was small, the passengers +were numerous, and all were thankful to plant their feet upon the soil +of the republic. The examination of our passports, and refreshment at +the station-house, occupied about half an hour, and we again entered on +our journey by the rail. I shall say nothing of the place, at present, +as we fully intend to pass a day here, on our return, to examine this +interesting old city. We found the cars good, the railroad excellent but +every thing looked strange. No farms laid out in fine fields, and +divided off by hedges, as in England; or fences and stone walls, as with +us. We every where noticed women working in the field. We passed through +St. Omer, a fortified town, of twenty thousand inhabitants. This is a +town where many English Catholics have been sent for education. We then +came to Lille, which looked like a large city. It has about seventy +thousand inhabitants. The fortifications look very strong, and were +constructed by the great Vauban. This place has been besieged several +times--once by the Duke of Marlborough, for three months, when it +surrendered under Marshal Boufflers. We were amazed at the vast number +of windmills--amounting to hundreds--every where to be seen around the +town; and the tall chimneys in the town tell plainly that this is a +great manufacturing place. The windmills are employed in preparing flax +for linen. + +Douai was our next town. It has about eighteen thousand inhabitants, and +has a foundery for ordnance. The Theological Seminary here has been +famous, and most of the Catholic clergy of England and Ireland were +formerly educated here. Arras is a town of about twenty-five thousand +population, and is celebrated as the birthplace of Robespierre. It is +said to be a very beautiful place, but we saw little of it. The cars +next passed through Amiens, a city of about fifty thousand inhabitants. +It was at this city that a treaty of peace was made between France and +England, in 1802. Clermont is a very neat little town, of about five +thousand inhabitants. It has a fine old castle, and every thing looked +lively and prosperous. Pontoise, on the River Oise, is a small town; +and I should think that, from the upper part of the town, the prospect +is very beautiful. + +We reached Paris in about eleven hours and a half from London. Really, +this seems very strange, that I should breakfast in London and dine at +Paris. After having our luggage examined at the station, by the police, +we repaired at once to the Hotel Windsor, on the Rue Rivoli. This was +the hotel where Dr. C. had his quarters, fifteen years ago; and is it +not strange that we have the same suite of rooms that he then occupied? +We have a fine drawing-room, a dining-room, and three good chambers. Our +hotel is exactly opposite the gardens of the Tuileries, and is in the +pleasantest part of the city. James, you know, was once here for three +months; and he has quite a knowledge of the city, and seems perfectly at +home. We take our breakfast in our apartments or the coffee-room, as +suits us best, at about nine o'clock; our dinners in some good _cafe_, +in various parts of the city, or at the _table d'hote_, at Meurice's +Hotel, which is just next door to us. In calling on one or two persons, +we found them in old apartments, but quite noble rooms, as high up as +four and five stories; and we hear that many families live in the same +building, and that many very respectable people live in the sixth, and +even seventh story. This I should never like. Whenever we go out, we +leave our key with the _concierge_ or his wife, who live in a snug +little apartment just inside the great gate, which opens into a +well-paved court. We have determined not to engage a guide in Paris, +because it is often annoying to have a coarse, vulgar mind disturbing +you, when all you ask is silence and your own reflections. It is quite a +mistake to suppose that you cannot get along without a _valet de +place_--for in every hotel, and almost every large establishment, there +are persons to be found who speak English. We paid our respects to our +good friend the consul, and found him very comfortably settled down in +his office, and residing in excellent style. A pleasant evening with his +family made us all think of our old times on board the Arctic. The day +after we arrived was James's birthday, and he was to give us a dinner, +and had invited the consul and his son to dine with us. Well, at five we +met at the consulate, and we boys walked ahead with Mr. G., Jr., leaving +the doctor and the consul to bring up the rear. He supposed that his +father understood where he proposed to take us, and so we went on +speedily. In the Rue Vivienne they lost sight of us; we arrived at the +Cafe Vachette, on the boulevards, and ordered dinner for the party. The +gentlemen, however, kept walking the street for two hours. At last they +gave up the matter as a bad case, and took refuge for a late dinner by +themselves in a neighboring _cafe_. At nine we all met, sadly +disappointed. The pleasant occasion had been quite disarranged, and some +hard jokes passed upon our want of tact in not sending out scouts to +search the Rue Vivienne, with the geography of which the doctor declares +he is now perfectly acquainted--having tramped it for two hours with the +consul. Of course, we all have to take their jokes upon our defrauding +them of a fine dinner. We have dined since at the _Trois Freres +Provencaux_, which has the reputation of being one of the best _cafes_ +in Paris. Our room commanded a perfect view of the quadrangle of the +Palais Royal, and the spectacle was highly interesting. The +accommodations of the room we occupied were very fine; and nothing could +surpass the beauty of the table linen, plate, &c. We are about to +commence the sights of the city in earnest, and are this evening to +arrange our plans. + +Yours affectionately, + +GEORGE. + + + + +Letter 25. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +I like this city very much--every one seems so happy out of doors. Not +only the poor, but the wealthy, are fond of the open air; and a great +deal of time is spent in the gardens and on the boulevards. Every place +seems to have provision made for the enjoyment of the people. Ices and +lemonade are to be found wherever you go. The appearance of the streets +in Paris is much gayer than those of London. You see a much greater +number of women walking out, and they are generally very neatly dressed. +But the streets do not look as substantial as they do in London. If +there is more that is imposing, there is less that keeps up your wonder. +I do not feel able to think that the people here have much business to +do, for every one seems to be engaged in pleasure; and yet there are +great concerns going on, and the fine manufactures of this city are only +to be done by labor and attention. Nothing, at our first glances at the +city, have pleased us more than the profusion of flowers every where to +be seen. It is quite common to see men with a rose in the button hole, +or a beautiful carnation. The roses are my admiration. I never saw such +beauties before; and whether it is owing to the climate, or to +scientific cultivation, I know not, but certainly I never have beheld +such variety or perfection. In the flower shops you will find very large +bunches of rosebuds, each bunch made up exclusively of buds of one size, +from the dimensions of a pea in all gradations up to the diameter of a +half dollar--not a leaf opened, simply a bouquet of rosebuds, and the +whole embowered in a delicate sheet of white paper. I reckoned the +contents of one, and found two hundred and sixty-seven buds not larger +than a common pea, and the price was only a franc. The moss roses are +beyond all my conceptions of floral beauty; and, go where I may, I find +every niche of ground adorned with standard roses of various hues, and +the walls and windows are beautified with brilliant geraniums, which are +evidently great favorites. + +We had a funny affair yesterday. We all went to make a call upon Mr. +D----, and found his residence in a splendid part of the city; but, +instead of being ushered into his drawing-room, we were brought into the +saloon of no less a personage than the Lord Bishop of Jamaica! He +politely directed us to the next apartment, where we spent an agreeable +hour with the family, and found that similar mistakes occur almost +daily. + +Our first tramp for a sight was to Notre Dame; and I shall never forget, +Charley, my first view of this cathedral. The exterior is more striking +than any church edifice that I have yet seen. No engraving can afford a +fair idea of its grandeur to one who has not seen it, though it will +help my mind, to recall its beauties whenever I see the picture. You are +so well read about Paris, that I hardly need tell you that eight +centuries have rolled away since Notre Dame was built. It is regarded as +the noblest Gothic pile in France, and is the pride of Paris. The front +is one hundred and twenty feet wide, and the richness of the carvings +upon the exterior is wonderful. I am really glad to see that great pains +are taking to restore and adorn this church. The decayed stones are +taken out, and new ones replaced, and the carvings also are renewed +where necessary, so that future ages may see what so delights us. The +two towers are forty feet square and two hundred high, and you ascend by +a staircase of four hundred steps. The form of the church is that of the +Latin cross. Its dimensions inside are four hundred feet by one hundred +and forty, and the height is one hundred feet. All through the cathedral +is a line of Gothic arches supported by columns, and, as you enter the +great door, you see the entire edifice. The walls look bare to my eye, +in spite of the paintings. We were much pleased at seeing the spot where +Napoleon was crowned; and George was in ecstasies, for you know how +thoroughly he goes in for his beau ideal of the hero. Here are, the +splendid candelabra which the emperor gave on the occasion. We heard +mass, but the service was very formal, and the priest might have been a +real downeaster, for he had a horrid nasal twang, and his +"_sanctissime_" was "_shanktissime_." The history of these churches is +strange, and I think a pretty good book might be written on the romance +of church architecture. The portal of the north aisle of the choir was +erected by a vile assassin, the Duke of Burgundy, who murdered his +cousin, the Duke of Orleans, in 1407. This, of course, was his penance, +and fully expiated his crime. The great bell weighs thirty-two thousand +pounds, and was baptized in presence of Louis XIV., and is called +Emanuel Louise Therese, after his queen. I cannot attempt to describe +the beauties of this building, inside or out. The exterior is all flying +buttresses, crocketed pinnacles, and sculpture. Inside you see chapel +after chapel; and as to windows of painted glass, they are studies for +hours. The rose windows are exquisite. + +We repaired to a small chapel used as a sacristy, or treasure-house of +the church. Here we saw the coronation robes of Napoleon, and splendid +capes and embroideries, in gold and silver, given by Charles X. and +Louis Philippe; and here, too, is the vertebrae of the late Archbishop of +Paris, who was killed in the revolution of 1848. The bone has a silver +arrow tracing the course of the bullet, which lies beside it. This is in +time to be a saintly relic, but it seems to me a filthy sight, and in +wretched taste. But Popery knows well what to do with dead men's bones. +For a minute description of this church, I would refer you to three +volumes, called the "History of Paris," published by Galignani. On our +return we went to the Hotel de Ville, and had the company of M. O----n, +whose kindness did much for us on several occasions. The Hotel de +Ville stands in the Place de Greve, where so much blood has been shed in +other days. Here the martyrs of the Protestant faith have been put to +death. Here it was that Dubourg was strangled and burnt by order of +Francis II. Dubourg was a noble character. His last words were, "Father, +abandon me not; neither will I abandon thee." + +This noble pile was begun in 1533, and only completed in 1841, and in +the modern improvements fifteen millions have been expended. The whole +now forms an immense quadrangle. The front is Corinthian, with pillars +and niches between the windows. A vast number of statues adorn the +front, and others are in preparation. + +It was at the doorway in the centre that Lamartine, "the noblest Roman +of them all," so gloriously withstood the mob in February, 1848, +declaring that the red flag should not be the flag of France. I wish you +could see this palace, for such it is, though occupied by the city +authorities. London has nothing to approach it in splendor. The +staircases are gorgeous, and are so rich in sculpture that only a +sculptor could properly speak of them. We saw the room where Robespierre +held his council and attempted suicide, and also the window where our +Lafayette embraced Louis Philippe, and presented him to the mob in +1830. It is the same window where poor Louis XVI. addressed the savages, +when he wore the cap of liberty. By the way, I hate the sight of that +cap, which always reminds me of the lamp-post executions of the French +capital in 1792-3. Its prevalence in our happy country is owing to the +French mania which once possessed the people, and has very much died +out. The apartments are regal, and some of them, I think, quite superior +to those of Windsor Castle. In this building is a fine library, and here +are deposited the vast collection of American books obtained by +Vattemare, whom, you recollect, we saw at Washington. + +I cannot tell you how sorely vexed we are to find the Louvre shut up for +repairs and decoration; every week they say it is to be reopened, but I +fear we shall leave Paris ere it happens. + +How much we would all give to have you here; for, though we are glad to +tell you what we see, we feel there are scores of objects which interest +us that we have to pass over, but which would make your eyes glisten, if +you could gaze upon. Well, my dear fellow, stick to your business, make +your fortune, and then come and look at the beautiful and fair in the +old world; and who knows but perhaps we may yet chat cosily together in +Paris? O, I do love to wander through this city by moonlight, and gaze +upon the bright, lofty buildings as they loom up so gloriously in the +mild lustre of a silvery night. God bless you. + +Yours affectionately, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 26. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We have been to dine at the Palais Royal, at the _Trois Freres +Provencaux_, of which I suppose the boys have told you; and I shall only +speak about the fine building, so renowned all over the world. The +Palais Royal is to Paris what Paris is to France. Its history is briefly +this: Cardinal Richelieu built it for himself; but the king, Louis +XIII., was jealous, and the wily old priest gave it to the monarch, and, +after Richelieu's death, he moved into it. In 1692, it fell into the +hands of Philippe, Duke of Orleans, as a gift, or marriage portion, from +Louis XIV., and here the great Orleans collection of paintings was +gathered, and which was sold in 1789, at the breaking out of the great +troubles. In 1814, Louis Philippe obtained it as his inheritance, and +lived there till 1831. The garden is very fine, and is about seven +hundred and fifty feet by three hundred, and has beautiful rows of +lime-trees, trimmed into shape, as are most of these trees in Paris. In +the centre are flower gardens and a basin of water, with a fine +fountain. In this open space are beautiful bronze and marble statues. +One I admired exceedingly; it is Eurydice, stung by a snake. In this +garden are hundreds of persons under the trees, on chairs, which are +hired, where they read and take refreshments. Under the arcades which +surround the area are the most tasty shops of Paris, and where you may +get any thing you please. A gayer sight than this same Palais Royal, or, +as they now call it, Palais National, cannot be seen in this world. I +shall not attempt to tell you about the apartments of the palace, and +which you can read of at your leisure. What a loss it was to the world +when, in February, 1848, six hundred thousand engravings, all classified +by Louis Philippe, and making one hundred and twenty-two enormous +folios, were destroyed by the mob, and the queen's own library also! + +We lounged about from one shop to another, and made purchases of some +pretty things, which we hope may serve to show friends at home that we +did not quite forget them. + +The Passage d'Orleans will never die out from my memory, nor shall I +ever forget the Cafe d'Orleans, with its mirrors, walls, and ceilings, +all radiant with a thousand lights. We find at every few steps the +magazine for the Indian weed, and all varieties of pipe, from the +commonest _en bois_ to the elegantly carved _ecume de mer_, which would +cost two or three hundred francs. Here, too, are the Theatres Francais +and Palais Royal, and other places of amusement. + +In our walks about the city we are sure to have all the notable places +pointed out; and one morning, just after I had obtained a Henry IV. +silver coin, in fine preservation, we were taken home by a long walk +through the Rue St. Honore. The house No. 3, in this street, is the one +in front of which Henry IV. was assassinated by Ravaillac. A bust of the +king stands against the second story, with an inscription. In the Rue +Vivienne, No. 34, we saw the house where Moliere died, on which is a +marble tablet, with this inscription: "_Moliere est mort dans cette +maison, le _17_ Fevrier_, 1673, _a l'age de_ 51 _ans._" At the corner of +the same street, where a small passage way branches off, is a fine +monument to the memory of the great poet and the noblest comic writer of +France. The statue is of bronze, in a sitting posture; on each side are +figures,--one humorous, the other serious,--both looking at the statue. +At the foot of the monument is a basin to receive water, which flows +from three lions' heads. This work was put up in 1844, with public +services, on which occasion the first men of France took a part. Another +morning's walk led us to the Rue de l'Ecole de Medecine, and in this +street Marat lived, at No. 20, and here it was, in a small room, that he +was stabbed, while bathing, by Charlotte Corday, in 1793. And in this +same street was held the old club of the Cordeliers. + +When I see the places of which I have heard so often it seems very +interesting, and will forever identify the scenes with my future +reading. + +We all enjoyed a visit to the palace of the Luxembourg. This edifice was +begun in the sixteenth century, and the present palace was chiefly built +early in the next one, by Marie de Medicis, in imitation of one at +Florence. Bonaparte used it when chief consul. The old senate held its +sessions there till its dissolution, in 1814. I never saw a building +whose proportions appeared to me so elegant. The court is a +parallelogram of three hundred and sixty by three hundred feet. The +front consists of two pavilions, joined by terraces, and in the centre +rises a cupola, around which are statues. In such a palace fine rooms +are to be expected, and here they are in great number. The Senate +Chamber or Chamber of Peers, is very suitable for its purpose. The +library is good, and contains about fifteen thousand volumes. The +picture gallery is large, and at present principally filled with +pictures of living artists, and at his death the picture of each one is +removed to the Louvre. All the great paintings of Napoleon's battles are +gone to Versailles; so we shall see them in the series. The chapel is an +exquisite gem: it has, beyond all comparison, the most devotional air +of any thing I have seen _of the sort_. + +The gardens are fine, and have some noble terraces, adorned with plenty +of statues, some of which are quite old; but a great many new ones, by +living artists, are rapidly taking their places. The balustrades of the +terraces are beautified with groups of children, athletae, &c. Here are +some fine old orange-trees, which were throwing out their blossoms most +fragrantly; and I must not forget the noble clusters of chestnut-trees +which are on the sides of the walks. The garden is a lovely spot, and I +saw hundreds of old and young, who seemed to enjoy themselves highly. I +am half surprised to find myself more delighted in Europe with the +completeness and splendor of the gardens and public grounds than with +the palaces and their internal gorgeousness. If I could carry back to my +own beloved country any thing from England or France, it should be their +gardens, their walks, their libraries and museums. As to the comforts +and elegances of life, we have enough of them for our good. The Musee +d'Artillerie is quite a place of interest, and here are seen some fine +suits of ancient armor. The arrangement is good, and an hour's attention +is well repaid. + +Yours affectionately, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 27. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +This has been a great day for enjoyment, and has made us all in love +with Paris. We have seen, this morning, that which has pleased me more +than all else I have looked at in Europe. We spent several hours at the +Hotel de Cluny, in the Rue des Mathurins. I am surprised that so many +Americans come to Paris and never see this castle of curiosities. To +understand our gratification, I must bore you a little with its history, +and then you will see what a treat we enjoyed. This venerable pile was +erected on the site of the Palais des Thermes, formerly the +dwelling-place of the Roman governors of Gaul. Here Julian lived when he +was made emperor of Rome, in 360. Of the extraordinary remains of this +palace I shall tell you by and by. On this spot, then, in 1480, an abbot +of Cluny commenced this building, and it was completed in 1505. This +magnificent monastery--the city residence of the monks of Cluny--was +often made the residence of royal and distinguished visitors. Here for +two years lived Mary, the daughter of Henry VII. of England, and widow +of Louis XII. of France, who, while here, married the Duke of Suffolk. +Her chamber still exists, and we saw it in high preservation. This +marriage, you will remember, laid the foundation for the claim of Lady +Jane Grey to the crown. Here, too, for a season, the excellent abbess +and the nuns of Port Royal found a refuge. Some forty years ago, it came +into the hands of M. Sommerard, a man devoted to antiquarian pursuits, +and here he expended a large property in forming a vast collection of +all sorts of relics he could gather belonging to the medieval ages. A +few years ago, he died, and then the government wisely purchased the +hotel and its unrivalled museum for half a million of francs; and +additions are constantly made to it of every curiosity that can +illustrate the habits and manners of the early history of France and +Europe. The building is very striking in its first aspect. It has +several Gothic turrets, and very rich windows, and the court yards and +garden are all in keeping. What good times those old abbots, and monks +must have had in their visits to Paris, in such a palace as this was! +You pass from room, to room, all filled with the antique, till you get +leg-weary. The floors are exquisitely beautiful--some in fine old black +oak, let in, in patterns; others are bricks and tiles, in mosaic. Then +the old mantel-pieces are wonderfully fine. We saw plenty of tapestry, +old as the hills; and one set of hangings was the history of David and +Bathsheba. Some of the bedsteads are very curious. One belonged to +Francis I. Perhaps the largest and most valuable collection of carved +Wood furniture in the world is here to be seen. Such cabinets, chairs, +tables, chests, I never imagined. The work is of the most delicate and +complicated character. Then you find a wonderful collection of glass and +earthen ware--cups and goblets belonging to men of note of every age in +French history. One room is full of ancient armor, another of gems, +enamels, &c, another of pictures of the most curious kind; and as to +mirrors and looking-glasses, they are in great plenty; and china enough +to make some ladies in America whom I know break the commandment. + +You can fancy, Charley, what sort of a place this must be, when I tell +you that the catalogue of this collection is a volume of two hundred and +forty octavo pages, and embraces eighteen hundred and ninety-five +particulars. I have the catalogue, and can assure you that it includes +some queer antiquities, of which we cannot speak particularly at +present. + +A word or two about the ruins of Julian's Palace of the Baths. Here is +still a vast hall, which was doubtless the place for cold baths. The +dimensions are sixty feet by thirty-five. In the cellars are the evident +remains of the warm baths. The walls are of immense thickness, and will +probably last as long as the earth on which they rest. This hall is the +place of deposit for any Roman sculpture that may be found in the +excavations of the city. + +I am sure that, next to the Crystal Palace, this has been our greatest +treat. We enjoyed this morning the more, because we had the company of +Mr. George Sumner, who has lived in Paris so long that he is perfectly +familiar with every object of interest. I never met with any one who +appeared to have so much local knowledge as he possesses. He knows the +history of every thing, and he seems at home on all names, dates, and +facts of other ages. Whenever we read up, after a walk with him, we find +that he knows all that is known; and in truth he talks like a book, but +better than most books. The attention of this gentleman has been very +great to us boys, and he seems never tired when doing us kindness. But +if Mr. S. knows places well, he is no less intimate with men; and +probably no American has ever enjoyed his opportunities to cultivate the +acquaintance of the best and greatest men in Paris. + +We have visited the Church of St. Sulpice, which was begun in 1655, and +only completed late in the last century. The portico is very grand, and +is a double row of Doric pillars, forty feet high. It has two towers, +which are over two hundred feet high, and on which are telegraphs. The +church forms a cross, and is four hundred and thirty-two feet in +length, one hundred and seventy-four in width, and ninety-nine in +height. The organ is finely carved, and is more elaborate in its work +than any I have seen yet. The statuary, both in bronze and marble, here, +is beautiful, and the candelabra are greatly admired. As to pictures, I +can only say they are many and fine. The marble monument and statue to +Languet de Gergy, the former _cure_ of this parish, and who mainly +contributed to its erection or completion, is much admired, and on this +tomb is the most elegant inscription of modern times. But I cannot +insert it here. Directly in front of the church, in an open square, is a +very fine fountain, which partakes of the ecclesiastical in its +style--having in four niches the statues of Bossuet, Massillon, +Flechier, and Fenelon. + +In our walk we were all struck with an immense wooden pile, which we +found was the Bibliotheque St. Genevieve. The front is very chaste, and +has very many arched windows. The library is more than three hundred +feet in length, and is covered on the exterior with the names of all the +great authors of every age and nation. We saw the names of many of our +countrymen--Washington, Franklin, Rumford, Clinton, Cooper, Prescott, +Irving, &c. We were unable to enter, as repairs were in progress, but +were told that the library has two hundred thousand volumes, and +several thousand MSS. + +We have all been much gratified with the Church of St. Etienne du Mont. +It boasts an antiquity that dates back to 1131, and its tower and turret +are known to be as early as 1222. The exterior is remarkable for a +strange mixture of architecture, and some of the details are very +beautiful. The interior cannot fail to interest a thoughtful person, I +think. The pictures are very fine indeed, and some of the marbles are of +the highest excellence. We went into the little Chapel of St. Genevieve, +the patron saint of Paris, where is the tomb of the saint. The tomb was +literally stuck over with small tallow candles, and looked like a piece +of meat larded. The room was filled with worshippers, all on their +knees; and two women had as much anguish in their faces as I ever saw. +All the people kneeling at this tomb seemed far more intent and in +earnest than the hundreds at grand mass in the church proper. Just as we +stepped outside this chapel, we found on the wall the monuments of +Racine and Pascal, who are both buried in this church. The church was +full of people, and in one little chapel the priest was baptizing an +infant. We went in and looked on. It was the first time I had ever +witnessed this monstrous mummery in the Catholic church; and I called in +the Dr. and Mr. S., who were looking at some statuary. The priest was +hardly decent at his work. He did it all in a hurry,--put oil and +something else on the child, fore and aft,--and how men and women could +stand and let the stupidity take place on their children, I cannot +understand. After seeing Pascal's grave, and thinking of his immortal +works, it was poor preparation for the mountebank exhibition, and +awkward work of making Christians, that we witnessed. You know, Charley, +that I am not a lover of Romanism, but I never felt so thankful as on +that day for being a Protestant. + +The pictures of this church are very well worthy of careful +notice--especially two, said to have been given by the city to the +saint, who caused a famine to stay its ravages, and restored a sick king +by intercession. + +Now, pray, do not think me church mad if I carry you once more to +another old one. I am sure, if you had seen it, that it would cause you +to talk about it often. Well, it is the Church St. Germain des Pres. +This is regarded as the oldest in Paris, and was originally an abbey. +There was a church here as early as 560. This was probably built about +the middle of the ninth century, and its completion was in the twelfth; +for it was consecrated by Pope Alexander III. In this church was the +tomb of Childebert, the founder of the first edifice. The abbey had a +refectory, cloisters, &c, was surrounded by a moat, and had been +fortified. A large open field, close by, was the resort of duellists, +and many a bloody affray has there occurred. Casimir, King of Poland, +was an abbot of this church. The revolution was sadly injurious to this +fine sanctuary, and it was for a time converted into a saltpetre +manufactory. Charles X. repaired it, and after him Louis Philippe +carefully superintended its restoration. The inside of the church is a +cross, with a circular choir; and the arches are semi-circular, and +indicate great antiquity. The restoration of the nave and choir has been +most carefully done, at immense expense. The roof of the choir is +painted deep blue, with stars. The capitals of the columns are richly +gilt, and the shafts are painted in red stripes--exact copies of the old +devices. Nothing can be finer than the marble altar and the carved +stalls of the choir. Nor does the church lack for historical names among +its dead. Here are the tombs of Earl Douglass, Descartes, Mabillon, +Montfaucon, and Casimir of Poland, who died, abbot, in 1672. Every thing +here in ecclesiastical architecture is so different from all that we +have in our country, that I examine these noble relics with great +pleasure, and do not know but I shall soon become as antiquarian in my +taste as-you know who. + +Yours affectionately, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 28. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +On a fine morning we rode over to the Jardin des Plantes, accompanied by +Mr. R----, whose long residence has made him very familiar with this +lovely spot. I think we all looked forward to this excursion with great +anticipation, because we knew that this was the most famous garden in +Europe; and then, in connection with it, are the richest cabinets in the +world of natural history, mineralogy, geology, and a noble collection of +living animals from all countries. Ever since 1635, the world has been +placed under contribution to enrich this spot. The greatest botanists +and naturalists of Europe have labored here. Buffon himself was the +great man of the place in his day. Even revolutionary fury spared this +retreat and treasury of Nature. Bonaparte made it his pet, and when the +troops of Europe were at the walls of Paris, they agreed to respect and +preserve the spot so dear to science. This establishment is on the banks +of the river, and there are many portals by which entrance may be +obtained. The gardens are very large, but I cannot speak of their exact +size. They are in the neatest order. Every shrub and flower, plant and +tree, is labelled, so that reference is easy. I was delighted to see, +on a lofty eminence, the cedar of Lebanon. It is a glorious tree, and +was planted here in 1734, and is now about twelve feet round at its +base. We also saw some palm-trees which were given by Louis XIV. They +were, I should think, nearly thirty feet high. + +The Menagerie has long been famous, and is most admirably laid out in +walks and enclosures, so that the animals have plenty of room for +exercise and pasture. Since the days of Noah's ark, I suppose there +never was such a collection of animals, clean and unclean. The bears, +elephants, lions, and tigers are all what are called first-rate +specimens. + +We were pointed out the house where the celebrated Cuvier lived, and +which was his favorite residence. Here was his life's labor, the +Zooelogical Cabinet, which he arranged according to his system. Only +fancy a house about four hundred feet long, having three stories, and +all filled up with nearly two hundred thousand specimens; and the +preparations are almost as fine as the animal was in life. + +The Museum of Comparative Anatomy, also, was the labor of Cuvier. The +collections of mineralogy and geology are very extensive; but I did not +have much time to examine them, nor are they as much in my line as some +other things. The specimens of precious stones were curious, and I was +pleased to see amber containing perfect insects, perhaps antediluvian +insects. And so we employed three hours upon what I should have liked to +pass three whole days. But it would take years of diligent study to +understand what is here to be seen. + +If a person walks about Paris and inquires much as to the history of the +city and its improvements, as we Americans say, he will soon find that +Paris has been chiefly indebted for her grandeur to Henry IV., Louis +XIV., Napoleon, and Louis Philippe. Bridges, places, arches, and +fountains show how much Paris owes to these rulers. Of fountains there +are, I should think, nearly a hundred in the city, and some are +exceedingly fine. The Seine is not much of an affair. With us, it would +be only a muddy brook. Some of the bridges that span it are fine. I have +seen nothing in Paris more picturesque than the prospect from the Pont +Neuf. It is my favorite stand point. Off to the right are the towers of +Notre Dame, and the long line of old houses which tell of centuries upon +centuries since they were built; and on the left of the river are the +Hotel de Ville, St. Germain L'Auxerrois; and some of the most venerable +streets. From the bell tower of St. Germain the signal was rung for the +infamous massacre of the Protestants, on St. Bartholomew's eve, 23d of +August, 1572. In the Rue de l'Arbre sec, at No. 14, was Admiral Coligny +murdered on that occasion. It was formerly known as the Hotel Ponthieu, +but is to be demolished in a few weeks, to make way for improvements. We +felt a desire to see the spot where the Bastile formerly stood, and +which was destroyed by the mob in July, 1789, and the key of which is +now at Mount Vernon, having been sent as a present to Washington. This +was the theatre of the greatest resistance made by the insurgents in +June, 1848; and here, too, it was that the Archbishop of Paris met with +his death. On the site of the Bastile, Louis Philippe laid the +foundation of a column which commemorates the revolution of 1830. This +column is of bronze, and is one hundred and sixty-three feet high, in +addition to the pedestal of white marble, supported by immense granite +blocks. The diameter of the column is, I believe, twelve feet, and it +cost about twelve hundred thousand francs. There is no masonry in the +interior. The staircase is suspended, and the whole concern vibrates +with the passing breeze. I did not ascend, you may be sure. The +Corinthian capital, over which is a gallery with rails, is very +beautiful, and is the largest casting in bronze that is known--or, +rather, was, for I _think_ that the Amazon at the London Exhibition will +take the palm for size. On the globe which surmounts the pillar stands a +colossal gilt figure, which represents Liberty. On the bands which +encircle the pillar are the names of those who were killed in the +three days of July, amounting to fire hundred and four. All around and +beneath are interred the remains of these patriots. + +[Illustration: Colonne de Juillet.] + +We are going to take the Cemetery at Pere la Chaise for to-morrow's +excursion; and the rest of the day I must devote to letters home, as the +packet day is close at hand. + +Yours, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 29. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +This morning, as we were taking a very comfortable breakfast at the +coffee-room of our hotel, and as I was reading Galignani's daily paper, +I found a person at the next table addressing me, in nasal twang, +"Stranger, is this fellow Galignani a reliable chap?" I assured him that +he passed for an authority. Laying down his paper on the table, he +pathetically described the tramp which the programme for the +sight-seeing of yesterday's paper had given him, and declared his +inability to keep up with the instructions for that day. Finding that he +was a character, I carried on the conversation; and he talked most +edifyingly to all in the room, as he spoke loud enough to be heard at +the very end. I inquired if he had been to London. His reply was, "I +reckon I have; why, I come on purpose to see the _Crystial_ Palace." +"Well, sir," I said, "and how did you like it?" "O, that exhibition is +some!" "And pray, sir, what did you think of the Greek Slave?" "There, +now, stranger, I takes it that where she were raised _cotton was +dreadful scarce."_ This, was too much and too good; and I think it is by +far the best thing I have heard about the exhibition. How the boys +managed to keep quiet, I know not; but they did as well as could be +expected. The room was thoroughly awake, and I resigned our countryman +to other hands. + +After breakfast, we rode to the Cemetery of Pere la Chaise. This spot +has for centuries been celebrated for its beauty; and, for a period of +more than one hundred years, the Jesuits had a country residence here. +They had it early in the sixteenth century, or, perhaps, at the close of +the fifteenth. Louis XIV. made his confessor, Pere la Chaise, the +superior of the society; and in 1705 it was the head-quarters of +Jesuitism in France. + +The present cemetery was consecrated in 1804; and the entire grounds are +walled in, and they are very nearly two hundred acres. You know how much +I admire Greenwood and Mount Auburn. Well, I still prefer them to this +Golgotha. The walks are some of them fine, but the tombs are too thick. +There is no regularity. It looks as though there had been a rain storm +of tombs and monuments, and they lie as they fell. This is the very +metropolis of death. Some of the monuments are elegant indeed, but often +their beauties are hidden. The most attractive spot to us was the +resting-place of "the bravest of the brave." Ney yet has no monument. +The tombs of Casimir Perrier, the Countess Demidoff, Abelard and +Heloise, General Macdonald, Lavalette, Gobert, Foy, Moliere, Laplace, +and Junot are some that pleased us most, and are exquisite specimens of +art. Many of these tombs have small rooms, with altars and glass doors. +Opposite the altar is a chair, and we saw several mourners in devout +attitude at the shrine of affection. I have heard from a Parisian of +great intelligence, and who has been connected with the city government, +that very nearly, if not quite, thirty millions of dollars have been +spent upon this cemetery. Of course, the expense of sculpture here has +been enormous, as the best talent of Europe has contributed to adorn the +spot, and perpetuate the memory of the departed. + +On leaving this charnel-house of mortality, we drove to the Abattoir de +Popincourt, which is the largest in the city, and occupies six hundred +and forty-five feet by fire hundred and seventy. On entering, we found +four slaughter-houses, each standing alone. Here, too, are sheds for +four thousand sheep, and stables for four hundred oxen. There are also +four melting-houses. We also noticed a large building called the +_Triperie_, for preparing tripe and the feet of animals. The week we +were there the statistics of slaughter were as follows: Eight hundred +and seventy-two oxen, three hundred and fifty-six cows, seven hundred +calves, and two thousand eight hundred and seventy-five sheep. Nothing +of the sort can be kept cleaner than this establishment. The water ran +down every channel, and very little blood could be seen, or effluvia +noticed. When will New York have its _abattoirs_? No city in the world +needs such an auxiliary to health and comfort more than she does. +Perhaps the good people will call for one after a few more visitations +of cholera. There are four other similar establishments in Paris. + +We had a nice ride home round the boulevards, and, stopping at the +consul's office, found a famous budget of letters and papers, and with +great pleasure we addressed ourselves to their contents. I am amused to +see how various are the demands made upon the time and services of a +consul. He needs to have the patience of Job; and if he answers +satisfactorily and authoritatively the questions which I have heard +propounded, he ought to have in his library the acts of every state +legislature in the Union. Marriage, death, removal of deceased +relatives from their places of sepulture, rates of interest, value of +stocks, condition of railroads, and statistics of all sorts have been +topics which I have heard laid before him for advice and opinion. Very +few men, however, possess more general knowledge of the United States +than our consul--Mr. Goodrich--does; and his kindness will lead him to +do all he can to satisfy the querist. + +Yours, as ever, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 30. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Yesterday we went to the Cirque, in the Champs Elysees. It is a very +large building, with sixteen sides, and behind is another spacious one +for the horses. The intention of the builder was to represent a Moorish +hall; and the pillars of iron are, with the panellings of the walls, +gilt and frescoed. The roof is very elegant, and the largest chandelier +in Paris is in the centre, blazing with I cannot tell you how many gas +lights. The circus will accommodate about six or seven thousand people, +and when we were there it was very nearly full. We paid two francs each, +and had the best seats. The performances were very good, and some quite +beyond any thing I had before seen. There was one feat that was really +great. They placed planks upon supporters, from the centre of the circus +up to the edge of the gallery, making an angle of about fifty feet. +Well, Charley, a fellow walked in with a ball, about three quarters of a +yard in diameter, and on this ball he trotted about on the ground for +perhaps two minutes; then he marches it to the foot of this plank, still +standing on it, and up he goes,--yes, he totes and coaxes the ball under +his feet, up, up,--till at last he stands on it on the gallery; and +then, did not the place ring again with applause? But then it is not +over; for down he comes the selfsame way--and that is the tug of war; +but he did it. This he did _backwards_, also, each way. I never saw any +thing before that would equal this, and I want to see him do it again +before we leave Paris. The horsemanship was very good. But there was one +fellow who threw himself into the very oddest attitudes you can fancy. +He looked, as he moved about on the earth, like any thing but a human. +We were all much amused with the audience. Entire families were there. +You could see parties coming in where there was no mistake about +grandfather and grandmother, father, mother, and all the children. It +seems that all classes here have a taste for amusement, and pursue it +with much earnestness. The audience behaved very well--every thing was +quiet. I noticed a great many well-dressed women who carried round +crickets to the ladies, for their feet, and for this they got a few +sous. + +As we returned, we found, in the grounds through which we walked, scores +of establishments for juvenile amusement--stalls where there are +exhibitions of moving figures, and at which you may shoot with bow and +arrow by paying a small price. Not far from the Cirque we met with an +out-door concert, in a very tasty garden--the performers all occupying a +fine orchestra. The audience were seated at tables in the garden, taking +ice cream, lemonade, coffee, &c. Now and then one of the singers would +pass round and take up a collection. + +This day we went to the Hippodrome, which is a very large enclosure, +nearly opposite the Triumphal Arch. This is no less than three hundred +and eighty feet in diameter, and will seat all of ten thousand persons, +who are under shelter, but the course-ground is open to the heavens. +This place is open from three to five during the warm weather, and is +under the same management as the Cirque. Our great object in coming was +to see the ball feat again, and also the skirmishes of some twenty +Arabs, who are here exhibiting their tactics. I never saw a more +reckless, savage-looking set of fellows than they were. Only one looked +like a venerable Arab--he did look patriarchal. They had several sham +attacks, and rode about shooting helter skelter, looking as if they +would enjoy the real thing much better. These fellows are said to be +some of the Algerine captives brought over by the French. Our friend Mr. +Hodgson, who lived so long in Turkey, and speaks Arabic, talked with +them, much to their surprise. + +We have determined to leave Paris this week, and commence our journey +through Belgium, Holland, go up the Rhine, and take Switzerland on our +return to Paris--and perhaps we may leave to-morrow. I ought not to omit +saying that we have had a very pleasant Sunday in our own parlor here. +We did not feel much like going to the French church that morning; and +the doctor invited the Rev. Dr. Murray, Dr. Chetwood, Rev. Mr. Darling, +Judge Darling, Rev. Mr. Hovey, Mr. King, and some other friends to join +us, and have a religious meeting. It was a very interesting one, too. +Dr. Murray spoke about the state of France, the need the French had of +our Sunday, and how they could not be a free and happy people, and get +along without soldiers, till they had it. All the ministers took part; +and I shall not very soon forget that day; and then I think we all +thought a good deal about home, as each minister talked and prayed for +our families. + +Our next letters will, I suppose, be from Brussels. + + +Yours, &c., + +GEORGE. + + + + +Letter 31. + + +BRUSSELS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +The fine weather, and the advantage of having pleasant company, has +induced us to leave Paris and pursue our journey, leaving many things to +see in the great metropolis when we return. I forgot to tell you that in +Paris I had the pleasure to meet an English clergyman, a relative of +mine, who was there passing the honey-moon. This gentleman and his lady +joined our party; and we are now to go together as far as Antwerp, +certainly. We took the rail from Paris direct to Brussels,--a distance +of two hundred and thirty miles,--and passed through Amiens, Arras, +Douai, Valenciennes, Quievrain, St. Jemappes,--here King Louis Philippe, +with General Dumourier, in 1792, gained a battle over an Austrian army, +and so gained Belgium to France, little thinking that his son-in-law +would be its king,--Mons, Bruin le Compte, Halle, and so to Brussels. At +Quievrain we found the custom-house of Belgium, and the little river, +called Aunelle, is the boundary of the republic. Mons is a fine-looking +place, fortified strongly. The region is one entire coal field, and +there are many pits in operation. Ten miles from Mons Marlborough fought +the battle of Malplaquet, in 1709. When we passed, the town was in +great commotion with the trial of Count Bocarme and his wife for the +murder of her brother. She was by some means acquitted, but he was +convicted and executed by the guillotine. + +As soon as we entered Belgium, we were struck with the improvement of +the lands. The small towns look remarkably thrifty, and every place +seems to speak of manufactures and industry. + +At Brussels, we put up at the Hotel Bellevue, in the Place Royale. The +situation is good. In a large square, and in front of our hotel, is the +magnificent statue, in bronze, of Godfrey, Duke of Boulogne, the cast of +which we so admired as the Crusader, in the exhibition. In this square +Leopold was inaugurated King of Belgium. + +Every traveller enters Brussels with expectation of pleasure. He has +heard that it is Paris in miniature; and then Byron has thrown around it +his witchery of song. I can see but a dull and dim resemblance to Paris. +Brussels, with its suburbs, which are quite large, has only a population +of one hundred and thirty thousand. The town is very clean, looks cosy, +and has some very beautiful edifices. But you come here full of fancy +about "Belgium's capital," "her beauty and her chivalry," and the +"windowed niche of that high hall," and you see at first only a plain, +good, comfortable town. However, there is quite enough of romance, +after all, in this same place; and when you traverse it thoroughly, you +find enough to call out deep interest; and before you leave it you are +much gratified, and, in all probability, feel desirous to see it again. +I like to be in places that have a history; and this Brussels has. Let +me tell you about this place. It stands on the brow of a high bill, and +the upper and lower towns are different affairs entirely. The summit is +covered with palaces, public buildings, boulevards, parks, &c, and the +lower part is in the valley of the River Senne. Brussels was a city in +709. In 976, the Emperor Otho held his court there; in 1044, it was +fortified and had seven gates; in 1405, a fire destroyed fourteen +hundred houses; and in 1549, it suffered from two earthquakes. But still +it grew and flourished under the dukes of Burgundy, and became famous +for tapestry, lace, and fire-arms. In the days of Charles V., the city +of Brussels was at its zenith. Philip II., his son, and his infamous +general, the Duke of Alva, ravaged this city and vicinage. The people +were fanatical, and the rulers cruel. In 1695, the city was besieged, +and four thousand houses destroyed by the bombardment. In 1794, Belgium +was annexed to France. After the battle of Waterloo, the Prince of +Orange was proclaimed sovereign of Belgium. In 1830, the revolution +displaced the Orange dynasty, and Belgium broke off from Holland; and +in 1831, the people chose Leopold for their king. The first thing I +wanted to see was the Hotel de Villa, which, many years ago, pleased me +exceedingly; and I think all our party have been delighted with it. This +is the noblest civil building in Belgium; it stands in a fine square, +and is a glorious specimen of the Lombardy Gothic school. The spire is +of open fretwork, and the sun shines through it. It has long been +esteemed as one of the most precious works of architecture in Europe. +The extreme height is three hundred and sixty-four feet, and it was +erected in 1444. On the spire is a gilt statue of St. Michael, seventeen +feet high, which turns with the wind. In front of this town hall Counts +Egmont and Horn were executed, under the eye of Alva; but they were +nobly avenged by William of Orange. At the head of a very steep and +narrow street stands a most imposing structure. It is the Cathedral +Church of St. Gudule. The foundation was laid in 1010. The front view is +very much like that of Notre Dame, at Paris. This church is occasionally +called St. Michael's in old writers, as it had a double consecration to +the archangel and Gudule. The interior of this cathedral is very +impressive, although the architecture is simple. The pillars supporting +the roof are massive, and must receive the admiration of all spectators. +There are brackets attached to them, on which stand finely-executed +figures of the Savior, the Virgin Mary, and the Apostles, executed by +the following renowned sculptors: Vandelyn, Quellyn, Tobias, and +Duquesnoy. The pulpit is regarded as the finest in Europe, and is the +most elaborate composition of sculpture in wood that is extant. It is +the work of the great Verbruggen, and was originally executed for a +Jesuit society at Louvain, in 1699. The art is exquisite, and far +superior to the taste which is exhibited. The pulpit represents the +expulsion of Adam and Eve from paradise by the angel. Death is seen in +pursuit of the guilty fugitives; and on the extreme summit is the Virgin +Mary, bruising the serpent's head with a cross. On the steps and +balusters are various beasts and birds; the owl, ape, and peacock are +conspicuous. We found preparations for a great church holiday, to be +observed the next day; and the Virgin Mary was gayly decked out in +embroidery, lace, and jewelry. + +A monument to Count Merode, in a chapel, is a most exquisite production, +and was executed by Geefs. Here Charles V., in 1616, held a chapter of +the Golden Fleece. The restoration of this beautiful church has been +carefully attended to lately, and the new windows of painted glass are +very fine; but some of the old windows, by Weyde, are grand indeed. + +In this church the famous sacramental wafers are placed away as relics +of inestimable value. Perhaps you recollect the story of the Jews who +purloined them, and profanely stuck the consecrated bread with knives; +when, lo, a miracle! blood came from the incision, and the unbelievers +were smitten down. Of course, they were taken, and tormented, and burnt. +This was at the close of the fourteenth century. The great celebration +of this Popish imposition of a miracle is kept up in July every year. + +All one side of this noble building is a set of mean, low, one and +two-story shanties, which deface the appearance of the venerable pile. + +While in the church, we saw vast numbers of boys and girls, who had come +to make their confession and prepare for their first communion, to take +place next day. We often saw in the streets of Paris and Brussels girls +dressed in white, with wreaths of flowers, and boys, with dresses that +looked as if they were bound to a wedding; these were young people going +to communion. The poor children in this church looked as funny on the +occasion, sitting and chatting, waiting for their turn to confess, as +the priest looked tired and indifferent. + +We spent much of our leisure time walking in the noble park and gardens. +O, when shall we have in America such care taken of our few green spots, +in our great cities, as is here displayed? No lady can be more chary of +the order of her drawing-room than are the authorities at Brussels of +these beautiful promenades. Then, too, here are avenues of trees that +make you in love with the city as you enter it. I do wish all our towns +would raise committees of public-spirited men, who should undertake, by +voluntary contributions, or town action, to plant the roadsides that +form the entrances to these places. I was delighted, some months ago, to +hear that a few gentlemen at Haverhill, in Massachusetts, had banded +together for this purpose. Charley, if you live to take an active share +in the business of life, try and do something for the place you live in +that shall appear after you have gone; make the spot of your residence +better, because you have once lived in it. We are too selfish; we do not +fulfil our duty to those who are to come after us; we do not, even in +the matters of this present state, live up to the great law of our +being--"No man liveth to himself." + +Leopold's Palace is exceedingly plain and unpretending for a royal +residence. It was originally composed of two wings, through which a +street ran its course; but they are now united by a central building, +with a handsome portico, having for its support six Corinthian pillars. +The edifice is about three hundred and ninety feet in length; and, while +the front is on the Park, the rear opens on an extensive garden. At the +opposite side of the Park is the Chamber of Representatives. In the +Park, and near to the Palace, is the prettiest glen and bit of miniature +wood I know of. + +We found our accomplished representative, the Hon. Mr. Bayard, kind and +attentive. He lives in a charming part of the city; and his position +must be a pleasant one, having good society in the place, and near to +Paris. + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 32. + + +BRUSSELS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +I like this city very much--it is so clean. The buildings in the upper +part of the town are new, and in pleasant contrast to the lower portion, +which looks so very old. I think, from walking about a great deal, that +there must be many English people here; for they carry their country in +their dress and manner. We spent a morning at the various shops, and +principally at the lace and print stores. We purchased some very +beautiful engravings, lithographs, and illustrated works, which will +remind us of our pleasant days in Brussels, and which I hope may amuse +our friends. The lacework executed here is uncommonly rich, and, you +know, is very famous; but, I am sorry to say, also very expensive. A +person may soon get rid of large amounts of money here. We made some +purchases for the ladies at home; but no doubt, if they had been with +us, the bills would have been heavier than they were. + +The way we manage for getting money while we are travelling is by a +circular letter from Baring & Brothers. On this we are introduced to +houses in the great cities through which our route lies, and the letter +states our credit at London; then from these houses we obtain what we +need, and have each house indorse the amount; so that, as we go from +place to place, our financial position in London still appears. In +Brussels we found the banker, or, at least, his agent,--for whether the +banker or his clerk we did not know,--a perfect specimen of vulgarity +and rudeness. He was the most uncivil fellow that we have yet seen in +Europe. His most pleasant words were grunts, and his motions and +attitudes were almost threats. He looked like a Jew, but he acted like a +wild Arab; and his manoeuvres would have been a godsend to the comic Dr. +Valentine, if he had witnessed their display. His gray hairs did not +command respect; and what made his rudeness so hard to bear, was the +fact that nothing occurred to call it out. We probably met him at an +unhappy moment. + +The Museum is in the old palace of the Spanish governors of the Low +Countries, and long before their day it was the ducal residence of the +Brabants. The building was begun in 1346, and completed in 1502. + +The pictures of Europe are one of my great objects of interest, and here +we begin to find them. We have left the London and Paris collections for +examination as we return. From the catalogue, we found there were about +six hundred pictures here, and some statuary. The chief attraction of +this gallery is found in the few early Flemish paintings which it +boasts. I think a Gerard Dow will long be remembered by me. It is an +interior, and the effect of the light in the room is admirable. Many of +the paintings are styled Gothic; that means they were painted previous +to the time of Van Eyck. An interior of the Antwerp Cathedral, by Neefs, +is very fine; and I was much pleased with some large pictures by +Philippe Champagne, some' of whose portraits I have seen in New York. +Here are four pictures by Paul Veronese. No. 285 is the Marriage of +Cana. I think I never saw a picture in which I was so impressed with the +magnificence of the coloring. The table is richly spread, and the light +appears on it, coming down the columns; the rich colors of the fruits +contrasting strongly with the white table and gay dress of one of the +figures. The management of light, by introducing various colors in the +dresses, is wonderful, and the blue sky produces the happiest effect. I +never before understood how much a picture depended on the arrangement +of color. The drapery of this composition struck me greatly; and +although I know little of great paintings, yet I do know what I like, +and this picture, as a whole, seems to me wonderfully fine. + +In 1695, when this town was bombarded by the French, fourteen churches +were destroyed, some of which contained the best pictures of Rubens, +Vandyke, and other great painters of that century. I observed here a +good portrait of Henrietta, queen of Charles I., who seems to have been +a favorite with painters. I have seen a score of her faces by Vandyke at +Windsor, Paris, and elsewhere. This was by Mignard. All make her very +beautiful. + +The Adoration of the Magi, by Van Eyck, the inventor of oil painting, is +curious; and a Descent from the Cross, by Hemling, who flourished about +1450, interested me. Amongst the pictures by unknown masters I saw some +good ones. I thought the portraits in this class very spirited. One of +Bloody Mary was quite a picture. + +In this building, too, the doctor found a treat in the great Burgundy +Library, where are nearly twenty thousand MSS., some of which are the +most richly-illuminated vellums that are known. Some of the miniatures +of the early fathers and saints are of exquisite beauty. This precious +collection has twice, I learn, been stolen by the French, as were also +the best pictures. The library consists of about two hundred thousand +volumes. I saw some glorious specimens of Russian malachite. + +You would, I am sure, Charley, hardly forgive me if I had had so little +of your love of the curious as to go away from Brussels without a look +at the world-renowned fountain--the _Manekin._ One day, when upon a +tramp, we inquired it out. The dirty dog is a little bronze figure, made +by the famous Duquesnoy in 1648. It stands at the corner of the Rue du +Chene and the Rue de l'Etuve. He still maintains his ground; and there +seems no danger of his losing his occupation. + +The Botanical Garden lies on the side of the hill leading from the city +towards Antwerp, and is apparently kept in fine order. It is about six +hundred and fifty yards long, and I should think nearly two hundred +wide. + +To-morrow we are to spend at Waterloo; and George is well nigh +distracted. We have heard very little from him, since we reached +Brussels, but about Napoleon, Wellington, Ney, and Grouchy. The +last-named marshal finds no favor at his hands, as he regards him as a +traitor to the emperor at the critical moment. One thing is certain; he +knows more about the battle than most persons, and will feel quite at +home when he once makes out his stand-point. We all anticipate his +transports with interest. We are to start early; so good-night. + +Yours, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 33. + + +BRUSSELS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +I am thoroughly tired out with a day at Waterloo; and, though I should +be glad to retire at an early hour, yet, as to-morrow's mail takes all +letters for the next steamer, we are all hard at the duty and pleasure +of correspondence with our friends. I shall give you but a hurried +account of our visit to the great battle field of Europe. We were all up +early in the morning, and, after an excellent breakfast, we engaged a +carriage and pair of horses for the day. The distance is about twelve +miles. After riding about two miles, we found the road touched the +Forest of Soignies, so well known in consequence of Byron's description +of the march of the army from Brussels to Waterloo. On the way we met +several guides, who commended their services to our notice, backed up by +testimonials of former travellers. We selected Pirson, and he took his +place beside the driver, and we arrived in two hour at the village. +Passing by what is called a museum, we addressed ourselves at once to a +survey of the field. There are no signs of the past, excepting in +monuments and houses that are famous for their being occupied by the +hostile parties during the battle. We turned our attention first to the +Chateau of Hougomont, because, from our knowledge of the transactions of +the great day, we regarded it as the grand point of attraction, and the +central one for our observations. This farm is an old-looking affair, +with out-buildings--a small chapel, twelve or fifteen feet long, and the +garden and orchard, having a strong stone wall around them. This was the +strong point of the British army; and if Napoleon could have gained it, +he would have turned the flank of the enemy. To this he directed all his +power, and the marks of the conflict are yet very apparent. All day the +attack was made, upon the farm by thousands, under the command of Jerome +Bonaparte. The wall was pierced with loopholes, and through these the +English Coldstream Guards kept up a most destructive fire upon the +French troops. The exterior of the wall still shows what a terrific +onset was made. We went into the house, obtained some refreshment, +bought some relics, and, among other things, a neat brass crucifix, +which hung against the wall. We then, went to look at the farms La Belle +Alliance and La Haye Sainte--the famous mound where the dead were +interred, and which is surmounted by the Belgic lion. This is an immense +work, two hundred feet high; and from the summit we saw the entire +field. Of course, we all had our feelings excited at standing on a spot +where the two greatest soldiers of Europe measured swords, and had a +continent for spectators of the conflict. + +When the French army marched through Waterloo, on their way to Antwerp, +in 1831, they looked savagely at the Belgian monument, and one man fired +his musket at the lion, and the mark is still visible upon his chin. + +We were much gratified at the farm-house of Hougomont; and the hour we +spent in its orchard and gardens will long be remembered by us all. I +have read an account of the attack upon the house, which says, "The +Belgian yeoman's garden wall was the safeguard of Europe, whose +destinies hung upon the possession of this house." The garden wall is +covered on the inside with ivy; and here we secured several roots of the +plant, and, having bought a basket at the farm-house, we planted them in +earth taken from beside the grave of a British officer, who fell in the +orchard; his tombstone bears the name of J.L. Blackman. These plants +will give us trouble to carry; but Dr. Choules has determined upon +carrying them home for Mr. Hall, whose stone house needs ivy on the +walls, and he intends obtaining roots from various places of interest in +Europe, to serve as mementoes of other lands. + +The church is a small affair, but is full of the testimonies of love and +affection from fathers, mothers, brothers, sisters, wives, children, and +friends, to those who fell in the bloody conflict. + +We were annoyed by urchins, who beset our steps, eager to sell us +genuine relics of the field, which are likely to increase in number as +long as there is a demand for them. George, of course, was in his +element, and he did little but plant the different sites in his memory, +for the purpose of comparing notes, by and by, with Gleig, Headley, &c., +&c. + +I do not attempt to give you any thing like a description of the place, +or an account of the battle, as you have books which are devoted to +these points. + +It is a circumstance worthy of notice that, in 1705, the Duke of +Marlborough came very near fighting a battle with the French, on this +ground, but was prevented by the Dutch commissioners who were with him. + +We obtained some good engravings of the buildings that are famous for +their connection with the battle, but they are nothing like as fine as +the folio illustrated volume of colored engravings which we have so +often looked over with interest. I tried to get a copy in London at any +price, and would have given any thing in reason; but the work is out of +print and the market, and can only be gotten at the sale of a collector. + +On returning to Brussels, and enjoying our dinner at a late hour, we +passed the evening in the Arcades, where we saw some beautiful goods +exposed for sale, and again examined some lacework. You will smile at +the idea of pocket handkerchiefs which cost from one hundred to one +thousand dollars each. The embroidery of letters upon lacework is +costly; and we saw single letters which had required a week's work. + +We like this city, and, if time allowed us, should certainly pass a week +here. I should not forget to say that we saw the king in the Park, near +to his palace. He looks like a man of fifty-five, and, I thought, had a +melancholy air. + +Yours, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 34. + + +ANTWERP. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + + +In company still with our friends from Bristol on a wedding tour, we +took the rail for Antwerp. The arrangements of the railroad in Belgium +seem to me as perfect as they can be made. All is order, civility, and +comfort. On starting for this place, we had the curiosity to inquire as +to the number of passengers, and found thirteen first class, seventy-one +second class, and one hundred and three third class. The road we took +lay through a level country, but cultivated to a great degree; and the +produce was chiefly clover, beans, potatoes, grain, and turnips. On +leaving Brussels, we noticed the fine botanical gardens on our right, +and the Allee Verte, a noble avenue of trees which reaches to Laeken, a +pretty village, dating as far back as the seventh century, and +containing a fine palace, where Leopold frequently resides. Napoleon +once occupied this palace, and here it is said that he planned his +Russian campaign. The park is spacious, and the village has a celebrated +cemetery; and here Madame Malibran reposes. The first stopping-place is +at about six miles from Brussels, at Vilvorde--a very ancient town, +having a population of not quite three thousand. It is known in history +as Filfurdum, and was a place of some consequence in 760. It was here +that Tindal, who was the first translator of the New Testament into +English, suffered martyrdom, in 1536, being burnt as a heretic. The +Testament was a 12mo. edition. It was published in 1526, and probably +was printed at Antwerp, where he then resided. Fifteen hundred copies +were printed, and they were mostly bought up by Bishop Tonstall, and +destroyed. The only copy known to exist is in the library of the Baptist +College at Bristol. This copy belonged to Lord Oxford, and he valued the +acquisition so highly that he settled twenty pounds a year upon the +person who obtained it for him. Both Tindal's assistants in this great +work--Fryth and Roye--suffered martyrdom before his death. I am sorry to +find, by history, that Sir Thomas More employed one Phillips to go over +to Antwerp and decoy Tindal into the hands of the emperor. The last +words of the martyr were, "Lord! open the King of England's eyes." Sir +Thomas More was a bitter persecutor, and he was "recompensed in his own +ways." Not far from Vilvorde are the remains of the chateau of Rubens; +and in the same vicinity is the house where Teniers is said to have +lived. Mechlin, or Malines, is a fine-looking town, with twenty-five +thousand inhabitants, and it is spelt by early writers ways without +number. The railroad just touches on its skirts, and, of course, we +could only look at it. Its cathedral church loomed up; and we longed to +see its interior, where Vandyke's greatest picture--the Crucifixion--is +found in the altar. The tower shows well at a distance. The other +churches have some pictures of great merit, by Rubens. After passing +Mechlin, we saw at our right a large town, lying, perhaps, two miles +off, and then a still smaller one to the left, and a fine old castle, +which looked in good preservation. The road led us through some fine +country residences; and, just before entering Antwerp, we passed +Berchem, a sweet little village. And I would not omit to say that the +small place called Vieux Dieu, before we came to Berchem, is famous for +being one of the last places where heathenism retained its hold in this +port of Europe, and here was formerly an idol. + +Antwerp--or, as the French write it, Anvers--is a noble city on the +River Scheldt, and is about twenty-seven miles from Brussels. The +population is rather more than eighty thousand. The city is laid out in +the shape of a bow, and the river forms the string. The river here is +one hundred and ninety yards wide. The tide rises about fifteen feet. +This place is of very ancient origin, and its legends are mixed up with +the fabulous. Early in the sixteenth century it was an important town. +It was fortified, and became one of the chief places of trade for the +north of Europe. In 1520, the population was over two hundred thousand. +Five hundred vessels daily came into and left the port, and two thousand +others were always lying in the river and basins of the port. The death +blow to this place was the treaty of Munster, which stipulated that +every vessel entering the Scheldt should discharge her cargo in Holland, +so that it had to be conveyed to Antwerp by land. The abolition of the +Spanish power was severely felt at Antwerp. You know, I suppose, that +this is regarded as one of the strongest fortifications in Europe, and +has been the scene of repeated sieges. The last and most celebrated one +was in 1832, when it was captured by the French, after a brave defence +of two months. + +You cannot easily fancy what a charming old city this is; but I shall +try to give you some account of it and our employments here. We put up +at the Hotel St. Antoine, in the Place Verte, nearly opposite the +cathedral, and it certainly is one of the best houses we have seen any +where. The court yard is spacious, and has fine orange-trees around it. +Our rooms are very elegant, and on the first floor. The coffee-room is +admirably attended, and the _table d'hote_ is the best we have yet set +down to. A large part of our anticipated pleasure arose from the fact +that here are the great works of Rubens; and in the city of Rubens, +Vandyke, Teniers, Jordaens, and Quentin Matsys, we felt that we could +not be disappointed. In the Place Verte we find a colossal statue of +Rubens by Geefs; and passing on a few steps, at the corner we come to +the Cathedral of Notre Dame, which is so celebrated all over Europe as +one of the grandest specimens of the Gothic order of architecture. There +is much dispute as to the exact date of this church, but the evidence is +in favor of 1422, and it is known to have been finished in 1518. This +church is four hundred and sixty-six feet high, five hundred feet long, +and two hundred and fifty wide. The nave is thought to be the most +superb in Europe; and the side naves are double, forming two hundred and +thirty arches, supported by one hundred and twenty-five magnificent +pillars, and some of these are twenty-seven feet in circumference. Here +Philip II., in 1555, held a chapter of the Golden Fleece, at which +nineteen knights and nine sovereign princes were present. In 1559, Paul +IV. made this church a cathedral; but, in 1812, Pius VII. issued a bull +by which it was made dependent on the diocese of Malines. The effect of +the evening sun upon the painted windows is the production of a glory +which no pen can describe. Charles V. was once an actor here, for he +stood godfather at the baptism of the great bell. The pulpit is carved +work, and done by Verbruggen. It represents the four quarters of the +world, and, though elaborate, is not as beautiful as the one in St. +Gudule, at Brussels. The glory of the church is the "breathing scroll" +of Rubens, so often seen upon the walls of its solemn aisles. Here is +Rubens's great picture,--the Descent from the Cross. To this picture +pilgrimages have been made by all the lovers of art from other lands, +and all concede the grandeur of idea and the simplicity of the style. +There is quite a story about this picture, in which Rubens and the +crossbow-men of Antwerp both figure, but which I have no time to tell +you at present. Nearly opposite is the Elevation of the Cross. The +Savior's face and figure are not to be forgotten by any one who +carefully gazes on this canvas. Both these pictures were carried off by +the French, and also the Assumption of the Virgin, which is the high +altar-piece, and were restored by the allied sovereigns in 1815. This +last-named picture is said to have been executed in sixteen days, and +his pay was one hundred florins a day. I like it exceedingly; and _the_ +figure of the picture is more spiritual than any other I have seen of +the Virgin. Its date is 1642. I advise you to read Sir Joshua Reynolds's +Lectures, where you will find a critical description of these immortal +pictures. + +The steeple or tower is regarded as unrivalled, and is one of the +highest in the world. It is four hundred and sixty-six feet high; and +from the top we could see Brussels, Ghent, Malines, Louvain, and +Flushing, and the course of the Scheldt lies beautifully marked out. I +hardly dare tell you how many bells there are. Our valet said +ninety-nine; one local book of facts says eighty-eight; but I suppose +there are eighty or ninety; and every fifteen minutes they do chime the +sweetest music: Charles V. wished the exquisite tower could be kept from +harm in a glass case. The tracery of this tower is like delicate +lacework, and no one can imagine half its beauty. After we came down, we +examined, at the base, the epitaph of Quentin Matsys, once a +black-smith, and then, under the force of the tender passion, he became +a painter. The iron work over the pump and well, outside the church, is +his handiwork. + +All round the cathedral are the finest old gabled houses I ever saw, +Charley. I never tire in looking at them. They were the great houses of +the time when the Duke of Alva made Antwerp the scene of his cruel +despotism, and when the Inquisition carried death and misery into men's +families. The oppressions of the Spaniards in this city sent many of the +best manufacturers from the Low Countries to England; and Queen +Elizabeth received them gladly. + +Yours, &c., + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 35. + + +ANTWERP. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +I believe the lads have told you what they have seen in Belgium; and as +they are just now busily employed, I shall endeavor to tell you our +doings and enjoyments for the last day in this noble old city. We have +been to see St. James's Church, where the great attraction is the tomb +of Rubens. The altar is exquisitely fine, and was the work of Duquesnoy. +Rubens brought it from Italy. Over the tomb is the famous Holy Family, +in which Rubens has introduced himself as St. George, his father as +Jerome, his wives as Martha and Magdalene, his grandfather as old Time, +and his son as the Angel. This wonderful creation of art was carried off +by Napoleon to the Louvre, but was restored to the church in 1815. From +hence we repaired to St. Paul's Church. It was built in 1679. It has a +noble appearance, and retains its cloisters. In this building we noticed +the Flagellation, by Rubens; Jesus bearing the Cross, by Vandyke; the +Crucifixion and Resurrection, by Jordaens; and the Adoration of the +Shepherds, by Rubens. As we left the church, we visited the Calvary, +which is at the entrance, or, rather, off from it, at the right. It is +meant to represent the place of Christ's death. There are several +statues of prophets and apostles, and a sort of grotto. At the end is +Mount Calvary, and the summit is the scene of the Savior's crucifixion. +Beneath is the tomb, the body, and the stone rolled away; and at the +left are bars and flames, and poor creatures in purgatorial fires. A +more wretched-looking burlesque was never placed in the vicinage of art +and the productions of genius. Popery employs such trickery unblushingly +in Papal countries, but withholds their exhibition from the common sense +of England and America, waiting till our education shall fit us for the +simple, unalloyed system of delusion. + +We find the number of priests in Belgium much greater than in France. We +see them in the cars, at the stations, and in every street. At one +station, on our way to Antwerp, we saw a most strangely-dressed man. He +wore a cloak, and the cape formed a sort of hat. His head was shaved, +and his feet were bare. We learnt that he was a monk of La Trappe. He +was as noble a looking man as I have seen in Europe. + +We devoted the morning to the Museum, which is so famous for containing +the richest productions of Rubens, Vandyke, Jordaens, and a host of +other great Flemish artists. As we entered, we saw, with interest, the +chair of Rubens, which he used in his studio. It bears his name, and the +date of 1638. It is in a glass case. Rubens has sixteen pictures here, +of high character, and Vandyke several. We were all delighted with No. +215--a Dead Christ on a stone table, and the Virgin mourning at his +side. No. 212 is a wonderful composition--Christ crucified between the +Thieves. The look of the dying penitent at his Savior is not to be +forgotten. The Magdalene of this picture is a creation of beauty indeed. +I have purchased a fine engraving of this picture, and several others by +Rubens, and I hope, by looking at them long, to retain the impression I +had made on my mind as I gazed upon the originals. No. 221--the +Trinity--is a profane and ungracious representation of a Dead Christ in +the arms of a stern old man, who is intended for the Father. This +picture is wonderfully fine, as regards the foreshortening of the dead +body; and I never saw such an exhibition in this respect. No. 218--- +Christ showing his Wounds to Thomas--is fine; but the picture has +suffered from damp. + +Quentin Matsys has several of his productions here, and we looked with +interest at a fine Sir Thomas More, by Holbein; the Flight into Egypt, +by Memling; Mater Dolorosa, by Albert Durer; and many interiors, by +Flemish artists. I was greatly pleased with No. 382--the Death of +Rubens, by Van Bree, who died in 1839. This is large, and I think a most +effective picture. The two sons, the priest, the wife fainting, and the +two scribes, are admirably disposed; and the open window, through which +the cathedral spire is seen, seems to me exceedingly clever; but I fancy +I admired it more than artists have done. On leaving this noble +collection, we stopped at St. Andrew's Church to see a portrait of Mary, +Queen of Scots, over a monument to the two Ladies Curl, one of whom +waited on her at her execution at Fotheringay Castle. After dinner we +sallied out to see the Exchange, or Bourse, and from which the first +London one was copied. Of course, this gave it an interest to us, as we +could fancy we saw the royal building in which Queen Bess made such a +display, and of which Gresham had so much reason to be proud. It is a +piazza of iron arches and granite pillars, surrounding a square two +hundred feet long by one hundred and sixty wide. It was built in 1531. + +On returning home, we accidentally met with Mr. Vesey, the American +consul. He invited us to his drawing-room, and we had a very pleasant +half hour. But when he found we were to leave next day, he insisted on +taking us to the outskirts and showing us the citadel and +fortifications. In a few minutes he had us in a carriage, and became our +kind and efficient guide till the loss of daylight rendered it useless +to look around. I think we shall never forget the very great attention +and friendship which we all met with from this gentleman; and I was +gratified to hear him say that here, in Europe, nothing seemed to +interest him in relation to mere party strife at home; while the honor +and union of the country seemed to him all and every thing. Mr. Vesey +has a good library and some fine paintings. He is a man of taste, and +marked by energy of character; and is just such a representative of his +country as she needs at such points as Antwerp and other large cities. + +Yours truly, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 36. + + +HAGUE. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +I assure you we felt sorry to leave Antwerp; it is such a thoroughly +fine old place, has so much of old Spanish history still bound up with +its present aspect, and is so decidedly foreign in its appearance, +language, &c. I have only time left to say a word about the docks of +Antwerp, which were a favorite project of Napoleon Bonaparte. They were +constructed at an enormous outlay; and the emperor expected to make this +place the great rival of London. At the peace of 1814, the dock yards +were demolished; but the great basins still exist, and are used for +purposes of commerce. They are useful in winter, to preserve vessels +from the ice which floats in the Scheldt. + +It was a lovely morning when, having parted with our English friends, +who proceeded to Bruges, we entered on board an iron steamer for a +passage of about eight hours to Rotterdam. The boat was neat and clean, +though small, and the cabin was adorned with baskets and pots of flowers +of various kinds. The view of the city and its fortifications was fine, +as the boat receded from the shore. On our way we passed Dort, one of +the finest towns of Holland, and from appearances, I think, one of much +trade. Its population is twenty thousand. Here, in 1618, was held the +famous Synod of Dort, the great labor of which was to settle the claims +of the rival systems of Calvin and Arminius. At this synod, Bishop Hall +was a delegate from the English church; and he, good man, never dreamed +of denying the validity of the ordination of his brethren in that +council. We felt interested, as we sailed along this town, in +remembering that here, in 1421, seventy-two villages and more than one +hundred thousand persons were drowned by the incursion of water from the +dike. The river stretches far away, and looks much like a lake. + +If any one looks at the face of the country, he will at once understand +why these regions have been termed the Low Countries. We passed, as you +may see on the map, Gravendeel, Willeinstadt, and the far-famed +fortress of Bergen op Zoom, which is one of the strongest places in +Holland. You know that Antwerp stood a long siege in 1831, when it +suffered severely; and, as we passed Fort St. Laurent, we were pointed +out the spot where a most gallant occurrence happened at that time. A +gun boat, belonging to Holland, got on shore, and the Belgians hastened +to capture her, when her captain, a young man named Van Speyk, rushed +into the magazine, put his cigar upon an open keg of powder, and, in the +explosion, perished, with twenty-eight of his crew out of thirty-one. He +was an orphan, who had been educated at Amsterdam. He has a fine +monument next to Admiral De Ruyter's, and a fine ship of the Dutch navy +bears his name. On board our boat we found two young gentlemen, of about +fifteen or sixteen, belonging to Rotterdam, who were going home for +vacation.. They are pupils at a boarding school in Brussels. They spoke +English very well, and gave us a great deal of pleasing information. The +dinner on the boat was very excellent. On reaching Rotterdam, we merely +rode through it to take the cars for the Hague. It is a fine-looking +town, has seventy-five thousand inhabitants, and some noble East +Indiamen were lying at the wharves. Many of the houses were like those +at Antwerp, and told a Spanish origin. I here noticed looking-glasses +at the windows, so that any one in the parlor can see the reflection up +and down the streets. I was glad to be able to see the bronze statue of +Erasmus, who was born here in 1467. We were delayed by the absence of +the authorities to sign our passports, but were in time to reach the +ears, and then started for the Hague, which is thirteen miles from +Rotterdam; and we were forty minutes on the way. The road is excellent. +We passed through Delft, and here we could not fail to admire the +gardens and country-houses. It was dark as we entered the town; and we +took up our quarters at the Doelen, which is a name indicating that +archers have resorted thither. Whoever goes to this house will be sure +to do well. We obtained capital rooms. Early next morning we called on +Mr. George Folsom, our _charge d'affaires_. This gentleman is an old +friend of mine; and he gave us a most cordial welcome, taking entire +possession of our party for the day. Mr. Folsom resides in very handsome +style upon the Voorhout, the best street of the city, and which, like +every other part of the place, is adorned with noble trees. It seems +strange to call this place a city, it is so thoroughly rural in its +appearance. It hardly shows like a town of sixty-five thousand people on +account of being concealed in shrubbery, cut up by canals, and +overshadowed with forest-trees. + +Very early in the day we were kindly provided with carriages, and taken +to Scheveningen, a village about three miles off. Our road lay through a +fine avenue of trees. This is a great fishing-place, and a great +watering-place. It has a large hotel, which we went to for lunch. It is +the great rendezvous of the fashionable part of society in Germany +during the heat of summer. We could not help drawing a contrast between +Scheveningen and Newport, and not much to the advantage of the Dutch +beach. This spot has some celebrity, as the port whence Charles II. +embarked for England at his restoration. On our way back we saw the +residence of the queen dowager, sister to the Emperor of Russia, and of +whom Mr. Folsom speaks highly, as a very excellent and sensible lady. +Mrs. Folsom and the ladies of our party had visited the queen the day +before. The house looked quite snug, and very unpretending. On +returning, we at once repaired to the Museum, which is supposed to be, +in many respects, the finest in Europe. Here, too, is the famous picture +gallery, in which are the best productions of the Flemish and Dutch +schools. You are aware that Holland has had extensive trade with China +and Japan, through her colonies; hence the richness of this museum, +which, so far as Japan is concerned, is unrivalled. I have a catalogue +of this wonderful collection, and to that I must refer you; for, as to +description of what I saw, it would be impossible to tell you a +hundredth part. The Oriental curiosities are very rich and fine. A plan +of Jeddo, the capital of Japan, is very curious--made by natives. The +historical treasures are rich and numerous. Here we saw the armor of De +Ruyter, and that of Van Tromp, well scored with bullets; the sword of +Van Speyk; a part of Czar Peter's bed; the dress of William of Orange +when he was murdered at Delft; the pistol and bullets by which he fell, +&c., &c. We all expected much pleasure from the gallery of paintings, +and I believe we experienced no disappointment; and how could we, with +such treasures of art and genius? Here we noticed with most interest +Rembrandt's Surgeon and Pupils dissecting a dead Body. This is No. 127. +The body is admirable, and the legs are thrown into shadow. The +portraits are lifelike. The portraits of Rembrandt's wives are fine +specimens of coloring. No. 123 is the world-renowned Bull, by Paul +Potter. The glory of this work is its minute adherence to nature. The +leaves and plants, and every appearance of vegetation, impresses the +spectator with the idea of reality. This was carried off to the Louvre, +although the Dutch offered twenty thousand pounds sterling to redeem it. +I liked the pictures of De Ruyter and Van Tromp; but the treat of all to +me was the show of small Dutch pictures, by Gerard Dow, thirty-five in +number; a Battle Field and Hay Cart, by Wouvermans, and many others from +his studio; Flight into Egypt, by Vanderwerp; Fruits and Flowers, by +Breughels; Interiors of Cottages, by A.V. Ostades; a Kitchen, by +Teniers; and a very large Hunting-piece by Snyders, whom I greatly +admire. As to portraits, they are in any number, and some are very fine. +One of Laurence Coster, by Durer, is curious. + +We went to see the late King's Palace, and here we found only the relics +of the splendid gallery which was once to be seen. An auction had +recently disposed of more than half the paintings. The late monarch was +a man of taste, but had sadly involved himself in its gratification. +Many of the paintings here are exceedingly fine, and will be disposed of +in a public sale next October. After leaving this palace, we went with +Mr. Folsom to see the Brimenhoff. This is the place where the Dutch +parliament meets. We went into the second chamber and heard the debates, +which were not very edifying. The appearance of the members was very +much like that of a New England assembly of legislators. + +The fine Gothic Hall here is said to be the oldest building in the city. +It was on a scaffolding in front of it that Barneveldt, the grand +pensionary of Holland, was beheaded, in 1618, at the age of seventy-two. +We also saw the gateway of the tower in which Cornelius De Witt was +confined, in 1672, on the ridiculous charge of conspiracy against the +Prince of Orange. The populace feared his acquittal, and they by a +manoeuvre induced his brother John De Witt, the grand pensionary, to +visit him in prison. They then broke in, dragged them forth, and tore +them to pieces under the gateway. We went to look at De Witt's +residence, which is plain and unpretending. + +I do wish you could have been with us in our ride through the Bosch, a +fine park of forest-trees near to the town. The forest never looked more +pleasant to me than here. May is a sweet month, and especially when, +with all her verdant beauty, she is just about to rush into the arms of +June. We all talked of you in the charming drive, and Mr. Folsom made +kind inquiries after you. On reaching home, we went with our kind guide +to see the house which was occupied by John Adams when he was at this +court negotiating a treaty with Holland in aid of our independence. + +We are to spend to-morrow and next day at Harlem, on our way to +Amsterdam; and the boys will tell you what we see there. + +Affectionately yours, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 37. + + +AMSTERDAM. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +In order that we might enjoy an opportunity to hear the great organ at +Harlem to advantage, Mr. Folsom advised us to spend a Sabbath day there, +which we did, in company with his family. We took the rail to Leyden, +ten miles. Here we saw the Dunes, or Sand Hills, which guard the Dutch +coast, and which are from one to four miles in width, and are from +thirty to fifty feet high. These immense piles would soon be scattered +by the strong winds if they were not regularly sown with reed grass, the +roots of which often spread from twenty to thirty feet, binding the +banks, and the decayed vegetation furnishing good soil for potatoes. The +existence of Holland and its population is only insured by perpetual +strife maintained against the sea and winds of heaven. We could not look +at Leyden and forget that the Pilgrim Fathers of New England were once +exiles at this place. They called it a "goodly and pleasant city," and +here they spent twelve years; and we looked at the scenery with interest +as we thought of their wanderings, and how much preparation was expended +in establishing the glorious foundations of our own New England. The +city has about forty thousand inhabitants. Its University is still +famous, and the hall of the institution is rich in portraits of the +great and good. The Museum of Natural History is very large, and is +quite curious in Oriental and Egyptian relics. In Japanese curiosities, +the Dutch museums are far more affluent than any others of Europe, as +they maintain almost exclusive traffic with Japan. + +The history of Leyden is very interesting. In 1573-4, this town suffered +an awful siege from the Spaniards for four months, and lost more than +five thousand inhabitants by war and famine. At last the elements +conspired in their favor, and an incursion of the sea destroyed the +Spaniards and brought succor to the Dutch. Rembrandt the painter was +born at Leyden, in a wind mill. By the way, there are literally +thousands of wind mills in this country, and some of them are very +pretty objects. The sails of these mills are immensely large, and I +think I saw some that were quite one hundred feet long. Many of the best +men of England have studied at Leyden; and if you read the lives of +Evelyn and Goldsmith, you will find they were much attached to this +place. Boerhaave, the great physician, was a professor here, and go were +Arminius and his rival Gomarus. Gerard Dow or Douw, Jan Steen, and +Vandervelde, the artists, were born here. Near Leyden the Rhine enters +the sea, by the aid of a canal and sluice gates; and here are great salt +works, carried on by evaporation. From Leyden we took the rail to +Harlem, eighteen miles; and we found the road very good, and the +first-class cars perfectly luxurious. We noticed on our right hand the +Warmond Catholic Seminary for Popish priests, and saw the young men in +large numbers, walking about. The road runs through a sandy tract of +country, and much of it is made land. Approaching Harlem, we found the +cottages and country-houses very numerous and exceedingly pretty; and we +were pointed to the castle of the unfortunate Jacqueline, whose history, +you know, has been so charmingly written by our friend Mr. T.C. Grattan. +We made our home at the Golden Lion, and found the place comfortable and +very thoroughly Dutch. The landlady is a brisk, bustling body, and +speaks English tolerably well. Harlem has about twenty-fire thousand +inhabitants. On Sunday morning we went to the Church of St. Bavon. We +found a large congregation, and they sung most heartily. The dominie had +a cocked hat hanging up behind him in the pulpit; and he was, beyond +doubt, a very eloquent man. The great organ, built in 1738, was long +deemed _the_ organ of Europe, but is now supposed to be excelled at +Friburg. We heard it during service several times, and in a voluntary. +It unquestionably is an instrument of great sweetness as well as power. +It has five thousand pipes. The church is lofty, and looks plain enough +after what we have seen in Antwerp. Of course, we went to see the +statue of Coster, who is said to have been the inventor of printing in +1420-28, twelve years before Guttemberg made his experiments. The Dutch +are strong advocates for their inventor; but I think evidence in favor +of metal type lies with the man of Mayence. + +You may be sure that, when we were so fortunate as to be here early in +June, we did not fail to go into the nurseries and gardens, and see the +hyacinths, tulips, narcissuses, anemones, ranunculuses, &c. We went to +the extensive grounds of Mr. Krelage, the first florist of Holland, No. +146 Kleine Houtweg; and here we were greatly delighted. The tulips were +exceedingly fine, and under cover they receive as much attention as if +they were babies. The hyacinths surpassed in beauty and variety any +thing we are accustomed to. I noticed a double blue, called Gloria +Mundi; Van Speyk, L'Importante, same color; Goethe, double yellow; +L'Eclair, crimson; and Emicus, white, which were particularly beautiful. +But we were all, perhaps, most pleased with the extensive beds of +anemones and ranunculuses, which rarely do well in our hot climate, and +here flourish in a humid atmosphere. Certainly they are the prettiest +flowers I ever saw; but they lack perfume. Here we saw them by +thousands. The exquisite order and condition of these large gardens +pleased us much. The young gentleman who kindly devoted three hours to +us spoke English well, and was very courteous and attentive. I have +brought away a catalogue of the flowers, with the prices. The soil of +Harlem is every where a deep sand, and every thing appears to flourish. + +The vicinage of this place is very pleasant; and we rode for two hours +through a noble wood, fringed with sweet villas, and made a visit to a +palace built by the great banker, Hope, of Amsterdam, and which was the +residence of King Louis Bonaparte. It is now a picture gallery, and +contains some good historical pictures, and many fine small ones, of the +best artists of Holland. I think the boys forgot to tell you that, at +the Hague, we found the annual exhibition of paintings by the living +artists of Holland, just opened, and the treat was very great. It is +quite clear that the art is not lost here, and that rare excellence is +still to be found among the Dutch painters. We were all delighted with a +picture of Charles IX. of France, and his surgeon, Ambrose Pare. The +time is just before the Bartholomew massacre; and Catharine is in the +room, plotting with her wretched son. Some of the portraits were +remarkable productions, and evince a power rarely seen in this +department. Some of the interiors of houses and churches were quite in +the style of Ostade, Neefs, and Gerard Dow. A picture of the Virgin, +and Jesus and John, by Schwartze, of Amsterdam, received general praise. +Of this artist I shall have more to say. + +The great Lake of Harlem, which is thirty miles in circumference, is to +be drained; and for several years operations have been in progress to +this end. The immense works employed for this purpose are worthy of +notice. + +After leaving Harlem, and taking leave of our kind friend the minister +at the Hague, with his amiable family, we again entered the cars, and, +after riding twelve miles, reached Amsterdam. The chief feature on the +way was the everlasting wind mill, employed here to grind wheat, &c. We +went to the Hotel Doelen, and found it all that Mr. Folsom had said. +This is a great city, of two hundred and twenty-five thousand +inhabitants. The canals are immense affairs, and the ships and vessels +of all sorts give it a very active appearance. All round the city is a +wide fosse; and there are four great canals inside, with many minor +cuts. Some of these canals are more than one hundred and twenty-five +feet wide, and are edged with very fine houses; and the intercourse of +the city is kept up by some two hundred and fifty bridges. The city is +about eight miles round. Every one seems actively employed. + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 38. + + +AMSTERDAM. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +The next morning after reaching this fine, but queer city, we called on +the American consul, and he gave us a very friendly reception. He is +quite a young man, but seems to be full of energy. At his house we met a +Mr. J. G. Schwartze, a native of Philadelphia, but who came to Holland +very young, and has made this city his residence. He is highly +distinguished as an artist; and we saw a fine production of his at the +exhibition at the Hague. Mr. Schwartze is a charming companion--full of +enthusiasm; and when he found that I was fond of pictures, he at once +volunteered to be our guide to the galleries here; and in all our +movements here our kind friend has been with us. The most imposing +building here is the Stadhuis, or Palace. It was finished in 1655, and +used to be the seat of the town councils. Louis Bonaparte used it as his +residence; and the king occupies it when he comes here. The marble hall +is esteemed one of the noblest rooms in Europe, and is one hundred and +twenty feet long, fifty-seven wide, and nearly one hundred feet high. +From the top of this building you get a capital view of the town, cut up +into artificial islands by the intersection of canals, &c. In this +building is much fine statuary, and a few historical paintings. + +The churches are large, but look barn-like. The organ of the old church +is very rich in its decorations; and here, as at Harlem, men sit in +church with their hats on, if they choose. The clergy wear a short, +black cloak, and deep white ruffs on the neck. The Jews are quite +numerous, and have several synagogues. They live mostly in one part of +the city. I do not think we shall any of us forget our visit to the +picture gallery at Amsterdam. Our attention was directed by Mr. S. to +the best paintings, and the particular merits of the artists were kindly +explained to us. The sight of a great picture is an event; and I think +that the day on which I first saw Rembrandt's Night Watch will long be +regarded by me with pleasurable feelings. It is a company of archers, +who are going out with their captain. The lights and shades are +wonderfully introduced. The City Guards of Amsterdam, by Vanderhelst, is +a large picture, with twenty-five portraits, and is esteemed as the +finest portrait picture in the world. But my favorite here is a small +picture called the Night School, by Gerard Dow. I would cheerfully go a +hundred miles on foot to see such a picture. The management of the +lights upon the interior and figures is beyond any thing I have +imagined. His Hermit and Crucifix is another gem. The picture of +Officers plundered by Peasants, by Wouvermans, and several landscapes of +his, are still in my mind's eye; and several pictures by the two +Ostades, Teniers, and Both are quite sufficient to make me understand +how it is that some men have found such fascination in collecting a +gallery. The best specimens of Jan Steen are in this city, and his Fete +of St. Nicholas would take wonderfully well with our good old +Knickerbockers at home. A Landscape, with cattle and figures, by Albert +Cuyp, is strikingly beautiful; and how I wish you could see a Fat Boy, +the son of a burgomaster, by Bartholomew Helst, dated 1648. Vandyke, +whose portraits have never been equalled, has some of his best in this +museum; and his Burgomaster of Antwerp, Vander Brocht, is as bold a +picture as you could wish to gaze at. + +Hondekoeter's flowers and fruits, and Snyder's game pieces, are among +the best of their kind in the world. Some of the finest things I have +seen in Holland, in the way of painting, are the little gems descriptive +of life as it lay about the artist--interiors of domestic abodes, and +out-door scenes at the roadside. These, the patient, plodding Dutchmen +have worked up most elaborately. One or two of Nicholas Maes's pictures +are wonderful. I saw one in a private collection, and it was a glorious +thing, though only a Kitchen, with two or three figures. O, how poor are +the things we often hear spoken of as fine pictures! The eye, it seems +to me, obtains its education rapidly in such a gallery as this. I am +sure I shall look at works of art in future with new feelings. + +There was a most beautiful Jew boy, about eleven years old, that used to +stand at our hotel door to sell matches, who regularly beset us with his +wares. His face was as striking as any fancy picture you can meet with, +and his beauty and impudence made him a pretty successful merchant. + +Mr. Schwartze took us to a noble mansion belonging to a merchant prince, +to see his great picture of Columbus before the Council explaining his +theory. This is a first-class execution. The coloring is very fine, and +the drawing good; and we all felt pride in seeing such a picture from +the easel of our countryman. I wish we had some good painting of his in +America. His portraits are excellent, and one of his wife has earned him +his high reputation in Holland. Through the kindness of this gentleman +we were introduced to the Artists' Club, and spent our evenings there in +very pleasant society. The artists belonging to it are probably about +fifty, and the other gentlemen who mainly support it are about two +hundred. I was much surprised to find nearly every gentleman we were +introduced to speaking excellent English. We met here a very gentlemanly +and accomplished lawyer, Mr. Van Lennep, whose father is a man of great +wealth. His attentions were very friendly. While here, James was quite +poorly with some slight attack of fever; and both our friends and the +consul were unremitting in their services. + +The water is very poor; rain water is valuable indeed. The best drinking +water is brought from Utrecht in stone demijohns. The bad water is often +used, however, flavored with Schiedam. We saw several of the +floating-houses, in which whole families reside, and carry articles from +place to place. The herring fishery, in its season, is a great matter in +the commerce of Amsterdam. Every thing here impresses the stranger with +the idea of activity, wealth, and great comfort; and I fancy that a +person would very soon become attached to the city as a place of +residence. To-morrow, if James is better, we resume our journey, and +start for Cologne. + +Yours affectionately, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 39. + + +COLOGNE. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We are strangely favored with weather; every day is fine; and we begin +to think that the climate has been abused, for we have had an +uninterrupted spell of bright, sunny weather. We started, after +breakfast, for our journey to Cologne, and took the oars for Utrecht, +which is twenty-three miles from Amsterdam. Our road was not one of +much interest, beyond the pretty gardens of the suburban residences. +Breukelen and Maarsen we thought pleasant little places. Utrecht is a +large town, and has, I think, nearly sixty thousand inhabitants; and of +these, one half are Catholics. It is rather on an ascent, and so is +unlike any other place we have seen in Holland. The place is famous for +the treaty of 1713. Here is a university, and some very fine private +residences; and the fortifications have been laid out in fine walks. The +Mall, or public walk, is a noble avenue of trees,--limes, I think,--and +they are in six or eight rows. In this place is a cathedral, which we +only saw. From its tower is the best view of the country; and it is said +you can see more than twenty towns from it. + +From Utrecht we continued, by railroad, to Arnheim, a distance of +thirty-three miles; and we saw more forest-trees than we had before +noticed. In the cars were several Catholic priests, who smoked +incessantly. Arnheim is on the banks of the Rhine, and is a pretty +little place, of about sixteen thousand inhabitants. We were, of course, +reminded by Dr. C. that here Sir Philip Sidney died, in 1586, of his +wound received in the battle of Zutphen. The entire vicinity seemed to +us a delightful spot, and we have seen no place where the houses appear +so English and American. The scenery is very attractive; and we would +have liked to stay over a day, but the steamer for Ruhrort was ready to +start, and we had only time to get our tickets and go on board. We found +a neat, comfortable boat, and met pleasant society. The Rhine here is +bounded by flat shores, and has no points of interest, and affords no +promise of what it is so soon to be. We entered Prussia at Lobith, and +had a very thorough examination of our trunks by officers who came on +board. At Wesel--a town, I think, of some twelve thousand inhabitants, +and having a very strong fortress--we stopped half an hour, and a crowd +came round the boat. Rapin, who wrote the History of England, lived here +while engaged in the task. How singular it is that all the histories of +England, of any note, have been written by men not born in England! They +have been French, Scotch, Irish, &c. We reached Ruhrort in the +afternoon, and left the boat. This is the great central depot where the +coal of the Ruhr is deposited. Here we crossed in a ferry boat, rode a +mile or two in an omnibus, and then took the cars for Cologne, after +waiting some hour or two, in consequence of a delay--the first we have +met with on any railroad on the continent. It was dark when we passed +through Dusseldorf; and we felt sorry not to stay here and see the +water-color drawings that remain in this collection, once so famous; but +we were told at Paris that the best of the drawings and pictures have +gone to Munich. In the cars we met a gentleman and his lady who were +evidently Americans. We entered into conversation, and found they were +from Nashville, Tennessee. They bad been travelling very extensively in +Europe, and had been through Egypt, crossed the desert, and visited +Syria and the Holy City. I quite respected a lady, Charley, who had +travelled hundreds of miles upon a camel. The journey had been very +beneficial to her health. We reached Cologne at about ten o'clock, after +crossing over a bridge of boats fourteen hundred feet long, and went to +the Hotel Holland, on the banks of the river, and found it a very good +house, with a grand view of the Rhine; and the chambers are as good as +can be desired. Few places are more fruitful in the reminiscences which +they furnish than this old city. Cologne has a Roman origin, and was +settled by a colony sent by Nero and his mother, who was born here, in +her father's camp, during the war. It still retains the walls of its +early fortifications, built as long ago as the twelfth and thirteenth +centuries. In Cologne Caxton lived, in 1470, and learnt the new art of +printing, which he carried to England and introduced there. Its present +population is about ninety thousand, having increased latterly, and, no +doubt, will rapidly increase, in consequence of its connection with +Paris, Strasburg, Berlin, Antwerp, and other cities, by railroads. + +We turned our steps very early to the Cathedral, and here we expected +nothing less than a treat; but much as we had heard of it, and often as +the doctor had described it, we found it far beyond all our +anticipations. The church was commenced in 1248, and is still far from +completed. It is always thought to be one of the grandest Gothic piles +in the world. The name of the architect is not known. Gerhard is the +earliest builder whose name is associated with this church, in 1252. The +plan was to build the two towers five hundred feet high; but the +loftiest has only attained the height of about one hundred and +eighty-five feet. Much of the external work is in decay; but great pains +and cost have been given to repair the stone work, and the work is going +on with vigor and success. It is supposed that it will require three +millions of dollars to carry out the design. The form of the church is a +cross, and "the arches are supported by a quadruple row of sixty-four +columns; and, including those of the portico, there are more than one +hundred. The four columns in the middle are thirty feet in +circumference, and each of the one hundred columns is surmounted by a +chapiter different from the others." On one tower still exists the old +crane which raised the stones that came from Drachenfels. The only part +of the cathedral yet finished is the choir. This is one hundred and +sixty-one feet high; and, whether you look at it outside, or gaze on +its interior, you are lost in admiration. The stained windows are really +beyond all others I have seen. All round the choir stand colossal +statues of the Apostles, the Virgin, and the Savior. In a chapel not far +from the altar is the renowned shrine of the Three Kings, or Magi, who +came from the East with gifts to the infant Savior. These bones once +rested at Milan; but Frederic Barbarossa, in 1162, gave them to an +archbishop of Cologne. So here they are in a case, silver gilt, and +arcades on pillars all round; and, inside the pillars, little gold +prophets and apostles. The jewelry at this shrine has been formerly +valued at six millions of francs; but in some of its transportations in +troublous times, it has met with spoliations; but it is still radiant +with gold and pearls, and gems of all descriptions. The restoration of +the shrine is going on, and costly offerings are frequently made in aid +of the undertaking. The skulls of these worthies are crowned with gold, +and look ghastly enough, in spite of diamonds and rubies. Their names +are Caspar, Melchior, and Balthasar. We paid a heavy fee to see the rare +show; but it is well enough to understand the mummery that there is in +the world. We went the entire round of the little chapels, and saw some +fine monuments to the great ones of church and state. I was much pleased +with a bronze statue of Archbishop Conrad, of Hocksteden, who died in +1261, and some exceedingly old paintings. We also saw the library and +sacristy, and the sacred vestments, some of which were splendid enough. +Here we saw a bone of St. Matthew some saint's shrine in silver, and the +state cross of the archbishop, with several of the very finest ivory +carvings that we have fallen in with. A look at the vast workshop where +the stone carvings for restoration are made was quite interesting. + +While wandering through the aisles of the Cathedral, we met with a very +pleasant family from New York; and, after introduction, we agreed to +make the passage of the Rhine together; and, as there are young people +in the party, this will be very agreeable to us. We have rather a +limited time to pass here, and so have concluded to neglect the Virgin's +bones, at St. Ursula's Church, of which we have read all the legends. +Men and women trained up to worship these odds and ends are the people +who are flocking by thousands to our country; and there is a great deal +for such folks to learn before they will value and understand our +privileges. We next turned our steps to St. Peter's Church, where Rubens +was baptized; and we saw the brass font, which is still there, and also +his father's tomb. It was to this church that the great painter +presented his famous Crucifixion of Peter, which he thought the best he +ever painted; but artists differ with him in this estimate. The picture +now exposed to view is only a copy, which was made in Paris when the +original was in the Louvre; but the man in charge turns the picture, +which is on a pivot, and you have the original before you. Peter's head +is very fine, and much more striking than the rest of the body. The +little garden in the cloisters of this church is very sweet, and there +are some good bits of sculpture. The beautiful Church of the Apostles we +could not see, excepting outside, and its appearance is quite singular. +The styles of architecture I thought strangely mixed up. Of course, we +got some cologne water at the genuine fountain head in Julich's Place; +and in the evening we made an examination of a curiosity shop, where we +found a fine old engraving of Rubens's head, and two excellent +engravings of Ostades's interiors. They are gems in their way, and, +though very old, are perfect. We saw the house where the unfortunate +Queen of France died, in 1644, respecting whose last days so interesting +a fiction has been written; and we were told that it was also the very +house in which Rubens was born. At all events, it is a very plain +establishment for such celebrity as it possesses. We have also seen a +military review here; but the discipline was poor, and only the music +good. + +A gentleman here from America, engaged in the wine trade, has amused us +all by his facts in relation to champagne, which is here manufactured +in large quantities, and is fabricated from a mixture of some ten or +twelve different wines. A very superior brand is the result, which the +good people of America will pay well for, with an appropriate brand duly +furnished to order. + +On the roof of our hotel is a sort of room, or garden, called the +Belvedere. In it are a variety of fine plants, in healthy condition. The +roses were very fragrant. The view across the river from this place is +charming; and the village of Deutz looks prettily, with its large hotel +and plenty of smaller houses of resort. To-morrow we go up the Rhine; +and we are all hoping for a fine day, and then we expect a pleasant one. + +Yours truly, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 40. + + +FRANKFORT. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +It was on the Rhine that we all wanted you with us, and other friends, +too, who were far away. This is no common, every-day stream, but one +whose name and renown have been associated with ten thousand pages of +history, song, and legend. We have read of the Rhine, listened to its +songs, drank its wines, dreamed of its craggy, castled banks,--and at +last we found ourselves upon its waters, rushing down from their homes +in Alpine steeps and regions of eternal snow. The deposits of this river +have made Holland what she is; and the rich plains of the Low Countries +have been formed by the alluvial deposits of this noble river. The +enthusiasm of the Germans towards this stream is well known. They call +it Father Rhine, and King Rhine; and well may they be proud of its +beauty and its historic fame. We took our passage in a fine steamer, on +a lovely morning, and it took us about eight hours to reach Coblentz. +Leaving Cologne, we passed an old tower on the edge of the river, and, +for some miles, the prospect was every day enough; and it was not till +we approached Bonn that we were much impressed with the banks. We passed +several villages, which appeared to have pleasant localities. I name +only Surdt, Urfel, Lulsdorf, and Alfter. Bonn is an old city, of Roman +date, and has figured largely in the wars of the Rhine. Its population +is about sixteen thousand. Bonn has a minster, which shows itself finely +to the voyager on the river, and is a Gothic structure of the twelfth +century. The University here is famous for its library, and the great +names formerly associated with this institution--Schlegel and Niebuhr. +Both filled chairs in the college. Prince Albert was educated at this +place. Beethoven was born here. If we could have spent a day at the +Seven Mountains, I should have been glad; but we were only able to look +at them. They vary in height from one thousand and fifty to fourteen +hundred and fifty-three feet. The most picturesque of the group is +Drachenfels; and the beautiful lines of Byron you will recollect, where +he speaks of "the castled crag of Drachenfels." From this place the +stone was taken for the Cathedral at Cologne. The summits of these seven +mountains are crested with ruined castles. Their sides are well wooded, +and around them are spread fruitful vineyards. You know how famous they +are in the legendary lore of the Rhine. The view from Drachenfels is +said to be one of the finest on the river. After leaving Bonn and the +ruins of Godesberg, we soon came to Rolandseck, a lofty eminence, where +are the remains of a baronial fortress and a celebrated ruin of an arch. +I should judge that the access to this place was by a charming road. The +ruins of Rolandseck are immortalized by the ballad of Schiller. +Tradition relates that the castle was destroyed by the Emperor Henry V., +in the twelfth century. At the foot of the mountain is the sweet little +Island of Nonnenwoerth, of about one hundred acres, and the ruins of a +convent. The rock here is basaltic, and the production of volcanic +action. Never did Nature present a fairer picture than we gazed upon at +this spot. The villages around are pictures of happiness and content, +and the scenery such as only the Rhine can exhibit. Passing by the +charming, rural-looking Oberwinter, we soon came upon a woody height, +where stands the Gothic Church of St. Apollinarisberg. Here is, or was, +the saint's head; and it was formerly a shrine of great resort. Close by +is the little tower Of Remagen, and opposite are basaltic rocky heights +of six or eight hundred feet, on the sides of which are vineyards--the +vines growing in baskets filled with earth and placed in the crevices of +the rocks. No square foot of soil seems to be wasted; and, to improve +the ground, you will find the plots for vines laid out like potato +patches,--some running this way, and others that,--making the sides of +the hills and banks look very much like basket work. + +We now came, on our left hand, to the ruins of Okenfels and the pretty +town of Linz. The ruins are very dark, and look as if they were past +redemption; whereas, some of these castles retain fine outlines. The red +roofs of the town are in pleasing contrast with the green woods. This +town seemed quite a business place; and I noticed several sloops and +queer-looking vessels at the piers. On the opposite side the Aar falls +into the Rhine. Just back is a town called Sinzig, and story tells that +here Constantine and Maxentius fought the battle which resulted in the +downfall of paganism. Here it was that, the evening previous, +Constantine saw in the heavens the figure of a cross, with the +inscription, [Greek: "_En touto nika_."] But other +legends give the battle place on the banks of the Tiber. + +We were all pleased with a beautiful, modern, castellated building, +erected out of the ruins of an ancient castle, of which a single +venerable tower remains at a small distance. The name is the Castle of +Reineck. It was built for Professor Bethman Holweg, of Bonn, and he +reads his lines in pleasant places. It must have cost much money to rear +such an edifice. Nearly opposite are the ruins of Hammerstein Castle, +where, in 1105, Henry IV. found an asylum. We next came to Andernach. +This is an ancient city, and here you see towers and ruins standing +amidst a wide amphitheatre of basaltic mountains. The place is spoken of +by various old historians, and under several names. The great trade of +the place is in millstones, which find their way even to America. Here +is a celebrated Roman arched gate; but the lancet form would indicate a +later date. On our left, we came to a pleasantly-situated town, called +Neuwied, with some five thousand inhabitants. The streets lie wide; the +houses looked bright, and very much like those in an American town. Here +is a Moravian settlement. On our right is a cheerful little place, +called Weisenthurm, and an ancient tower stands near it. It is said that +here the Romans first made the crossing of this river. This was the spot +where General Hoch passed in 1797; and on a height, at this village, is +a monument to celebrate Hoch's achievement. Here we met with an enormous +raft; and I assure you, Charley, it was a sight. We had seen two or +three small ones before, but here was a monster. These rafts come from +the woods on the tributary rivers--the Moselle, Neckar, Maine, &c. These +prodigious flotillas are bound to Dordrecht, and are there broken up. +This one looked like a town. It had at least twenty-five huts, and some +of them tolerably large shanties; and I should think there were all of +three hundred and fifty persons upon it. On the raft were women, +children, cows, pigs, and sheep. This one was thought to be seven +hundred feet long and two hundred wide, at the least. On our left, as we +ascended the river, we now saw Sain and Muehlhofen, just at the point +where two small rivers enter the Rhine; and on a hill top are the ruins +of a castle of the Counts of Sain. Farther up is the quiet-looking +hamlet of Engers; and we pass the islands of Niederwoerth and Graswoerth. +On the former is a ruined convent, founded in 1242, and a population of +nearly seven hundred. They seem to have a fine old church. I very much +admired the village of Kesselhein, and I think it must be a charming +spot. Close by it is the Palace of Schoenbornhest, where the Bourbon +family retreated at the revolution in the last century. It is now sadly +dilapidated. Just as we were looking at Nuendorf, on our right, we were +all called, by a bend in the river, to gaze on the giant rock of +Ehrenbreitstein, bristling to its very summit with fortifications. O, +how it towers up, and smiles or frowns--which you please--upon Coblentz, +sweetly reposing on the banks of the Rhine and the Moselle! I think the +view from the deck of the steamer, up and down the river, and on each +side, is the noblest panoramic view that I have seen. Just before us is +a bridge of boats, which connects the fortress with Coblentz; and, +looking up the Moselle, is a fine stone bridge. We had our dinner on the +deck of the boat--a good arrangement, because we lost none of the +scenery. This dinner was about midway between Cologne and Coblentz; and +it would have amused you to have noticed the order of the various +courses--soup, boiled beef, raw fish, ducks, roast pork, fowls, pudding, +baked fish, roast beef, and mutton. Every thing was well cooked, and I +never saw people appear more disposed to do justice to a meal. There was +not half the hurry and indecorum that you so often see in an American +boat. One thing I observed--and that was, that no one used the left hand +for the management of his knife. If any thing annoys me, it is to see +persons carve and eat at table with this wretched habit. I always +imagine that they were so unhappy as to have grown up without father or +mother to watch over them. This may be my weakness; but I cannot help +it. We went to the Trois Suisses, a fine house on the river bank, and +from our windows are looking, by moonlight, on the glorious fortress. + +Yours truly, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 41. + + +FRANKFORT. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We had no more pleasant day in our excursion than from Cologne to +Coblentz. It would be long before I grew tired of the scenery at that +fine old place. We walked about, in the evening, with our New York +friends; and, though some parts of Coblentz are very filthy, there are +some exquisite plots in it, and all the vicinage is beautiful. We took a +pleasant stroll to the bridge which spans the blue Moselle with fourteen +arches. The city stands on a point of land formed by the two rivers, and +hence was known to the Romans by the name of _Confluentes_. Drusus +fortified this place and Ehrenbreitstein thirteen years before Christ. +Its population is short of twenty thousand; but there are also four +thousand five hundred Prussian troops at the fortress. This is one of +the strongest military posts in Europe. Its fortifications have been the +labor of long years; and the works here, united with those across the +river, are deemed impregnable. I believe Ehrenbreitstein is called the +Gibraltar of Germany. It mounts four hundred cannon, and the magazines +will contain provisions for eight thousand men for ten years. The former +Electoral Palace is now the Government House, and presents a very noble +appearance from the river. It is either stone, or stuccoed, with an +Ionic portico; and, with its wings, is five hundred and forty feet +front. All round this city, the heights are strongly fortified; and, +look where you may, you see means of defence. + +We here determined upon an excursion to Stolzenfels, which is about four +miles from Coblentz, and our party went in two carriages--the family of +Mr. B. in one, and ourselves in the other. The ride was very pleasant +along the banks of the Rhine, and through orchards and vineyards--the +heights towering away over us all the way. We came to the village of +Capellen, which is a poor little hamlet at the base of the lofty +mountain on which stood the noble ruins of Stolzenfels Castle, which has +been most admirably restored, and is now the summer palace of the King +of Prussia. The ascent is very steep, but the road is admirable. +Carriages are not allowed to go up, and travellers are supplied with +donkeys, of which we found plenty in waiting. Our party all obtained +these patient beasts of burden, and I assure you that we made a funny +cavalcade. I do think it would have amused you to see ladies, gentlemen, +and boys, all escorted by ragged urchins, mounting the hill. The road +has been made at immense expense, and winds along in the most romantic +manner--giving you, at every turn, the finest views and catches of the +river, up and down; while the walls are frequently at the edges of +precipices, from fifty to two hundred feet over the ravines below. The +woods were in all their glory, and I never saw a finer day. On arriving +at the castle, we rang a bell, and the servant in livery appeared--a +fine, civil fellow he was. On entering, we were all furnished with felt +slippers, so that, in walking through the apartments, we might not +injure the polished oak floors. This castle was the residence of +Archbishop Werner, who, at the close of the fourteenth century, was +devoted to alchemy. The old tower is an immense affair, and still +remains, and is likely to remain for ages. The new parts of the palace +have all been restored with constant reference to the original +architectural style. We wandered from one apartment to another, perhaps +going into twenty or thirty apartments, none of which were very large, +and many of them quite small and cosy. We saw the bed-room of the king. +Every thing was plain, and the furniture generally made of oak or black +walnut. His study table had pen and ink and paper upon it, just as if +he had stepped out of the room. The queen's apartments were very +elegantly plain, and her oratory is as pretty a little thing as you can +imagine. In all these apartments are fine pictures, and one is superbly +frescoed with allegory and history. The room in which the Queen of +England and Prince Albert lodged, in 1845, was shown us, and the state +bed was still in it. The dining hall was finely ornamented with +carvings, old armor, &c. But a room devoted to antiquities pleased us +the best of all. Here were cups, bottles, and glass goblets of the +earliest dates,--some as far back as the twelfth and thirteenth +centuries,--which had belonged to emperors and electors whom I cannot +recollect, they were so many. On the walls were the most precious +mementoes; and here we saw the swords of Marshal Tilly, Napoleon +Bonaparte,--the one used at Waterloo,--Blucher, and Murat, and the knife +and fork belonging to the brave Hofer, the Tyrolese patriot, who was +shot at Mantua. From all the windows of this gem of a palace we had the +finest views of the river, and could see, from the gateway and platform, +Coblentz, Ehrenbreitstein, and eleven different ruins of castles and +convents. Directly in front of us, on a bend of the river, almost making +a peninsula, was Lahnstein and its ruined castle; off to its right, +Braubach, and the Castle of Marksburg and Martin's Chapel; and, on our +own side, the pretty village of Rheus, where was once "the royal seat," +and where the electors of the Rhine used to meet, to elect or depose the +emperors of Germany. All round the castle of Stolzenfels are the +choicest flowers and shrubs; and I wish some of my horticultural friends +could have seen the moss roses and fuchias in such luxuriance. We were +sorry to leave the place; but the steamboat on the Rhine is as punctual +as a North River boat; and we had to resume our donkeys, descend to the +carriages, drive briskly, and were just in time to get on board a boat +bound to Mayence. In going up the river, we saw the palace again to +great advantage; and, whatever else I forget, this locality I shall keep +in memory, I assure you. We again looked at Lahnstein, and the ruins of +St. John's Church, built in 1100, and saw a curious ferry, from the +mouth of the Lahn over to Stolzenfels. It is made by five or six boats +anchored off, and the ferry boat goes over, wafted by the tide. We then +came upon Bopart, an old place, but strongly fortified, and having three +or four thousand inhabitants. A gentleman on board, who had been there, +said it was quite an interesting place. Nearly opposite we were +delighted with the ruined towers of the Brothers, as Sternberg and +Liebenstein are called. They occupy the two summits of a rock, every +inch of whose sides is sacred to vines. The story of the brothers who +lived here you are acquainted with. Our next point of interest was the +ruin of Thurnberg, or the Mouse; while not far above is another, called +the Cat. The view here grows more sublime, and the river grows narrower; +and we had a fine prospect of Rheinfels and the town of St. Goar. +Rheinfels grows up from the river's edge, and is, indeed, _the_ rock of +the Rhine. The fortifications were immense, and this is the most +wonderful ruin on the river. A confederacy of German and Rhenish cities +broke up this fortress at the close of the thirteenth century, and long +afterwards it was made a modern defence. Here the river seems pent up, +almost; and just above St. Goar there rises from the water a lofty +precipice, called the Lurley Rock. Nearly opposite, a man lives, who, +when the boat passes, fires a pistol, and a very singular echo follows, +as we can testify. Not far above are seven rocks, seen at low water, +called the Seven Sisters. The legend says that they were hard-hearted +girls,--the Ladies Schonberg,--who trifled with the affections of nice +young men, and so got their deserts by being turned into stones. Still, +at the right, we came to Oberwesel, and we all thought it among the +sweetest spots of the river. Salmon are caught in nets here, from the +rocks. A bend in the river shows us Schonberg, a fine ruin. This was the +family spot whence the Marshal Schomberg, of the Boyne, originated. Just +over the river is the noble Gutenfels. It was spared by the French, and +occupied till 1807, but is now roofless. Caub, on the left, is the place +where Marshal Blucher crossed the river with his army, January 1, 1814. +In the centre of the river is a castle called Pfalz, built about 1320, +which was used as a toll-house by the Duke of Nassau. I think it has +been used as a state prison. On our right lies Bacharach, with its many +towers, and the fine old ruins of Stahleck Castle. Off this place is a +large rock, the Altar of Bacchus; and when the rock is exposed, it is +thought to be the pledge of a good vintage. The region is celebrated for +its wines; and the grapes of the slaty rocks have a highly musky +perfume. A gentleman told me that Bacharach resembles Jerusalem in its +aspect. Of course, it must be in miniature that the resemblance exists. +Here we noticed St. Werner's Church, a most superb ruin of the florid +Gothic. Those lancet-arched windows are the admiration of all who pass +by. Lorchausen is a small place, and just away from it are the ruins of +the Castle of Nollingen. On the other side, or right bank, are the ruins +of the old Keep Tower of Fuerstenberg, destroyed in 1689. Here we enter +on the region where the best Rhenish wine is produced. The Rheingau, or +valley of the river, is divided into upper and lower departments; and +from about Lorch, on the left bank, up to Biberich, are the choicest +vineyards. On our right lay the ruins of Heimberg, and the restored +Castle of Sonneck. Then comes old Falkenberg, and near to it is the +splendid Gothic Church of St. Clement. All these fortresses were the +abodes of wholesale highwaymen, and then might made right. Most of them +became such nuisances that, at the close of the thirteenth century, they +were hurled down, and their places made desolate. Here, too, is +Rheinstein, on the very bank of the river. Its early owner was hanged by +the Emperor Rudolph. One of the Prussian princes has fitted up the +fortress in magnificent style; and I learn that there is no palace in +Europe that can boast of such mediaeval splendor. Every thing that can +serve to illustrate the dark ages is carefully collected for this +charming spot, which seems a rival to Stolzenfels. + +Just across, on the opposite bank, is Assmanshausen, famous for hot +baths and red wine. Here you see terrace upon terrace, up to the summits +of the hills; and some of these, the guide books say, are one thousand +or twelve hundred feet. You will often see fifteen or twenty of these +terraces supported by brick and stone fences, and the terrace is often +not more than six feet wide; and the soil and manure have all to be +carried up on the shoulders of the vine-dressers. The value of this +region-arises from its aspect, owing to the bend of the river, which +gives _this left bank, as you ascend_, a direct exposure to the sun at +midday. + +The vintage of the Rhine, I am told, is generally gathered in during +October and November, but it is put off as late as possible. Grapes were +introduced here by the Romans. + +We now came to Ehrenfels, in its venerable decay, the beautiful tower of +Rosel, and the ruins of Bromseberg; while on our right are the ruins of +Vautsberg, and just beyond we come upon "Bingen of the Rhine," at the +mouth of the Nahe; and close by is the celebrated Mausetherm, or Mouse +Tower, said to have been built by Hatto, the Archbishop of Mayence, in +the tenth century. Southey's fine ballad has immortalized the legend. +Never did town present sweeter aspect than Bingen, at the foot of a +pyramidical hill, which is crowned by the ruined Castle of Klopp. In a +church here lies Bartholomew of Holshausen, who prophesied the fatality +of the Stuarts and Charles II.'s restoration, warning him not to restore +Popery. Bingen has, I think, some five or six thousand inhabitants, and +has a great trade in wine, which is collected here from all the +vineyards around. Rudesheim lies on the other bank, and its famous wine +comes from grapes growing close to Ehrenfels. Next comes Geisenheim, +also famous for wine, and soon comes the renowned village and vineyard +of Johannisberg, or Mountain of St. John. Here the river is wide +again,--perhaps two thousand fire hundred feet,--and we begin to see +fine meadows. This is where Prince Metternich has his seat, where once +was a priory, and various have been its vicissitudes. In 1816, it was +given to Metternich by the Emperor of Austria. The mountain contains +only seventy-five acres, and the choicest wine comes only from vines +growing near the castle, on the crown of the bill. The wine of the +village is very inferior to that of this estate. The place has but few +inhabitants--say five or eight hundred. The house is white, and not very +castle-like. The grape is called the _Riesslingen_. + +[Illustration: VINEYARD ON THE RHINE.--Pp. 175.] + +Here we found several islands. Erbach and Hattenheim are both famous for +vineyards, and between them grows the famous Marcobruenner; and the +Steinberg vineyard, a fortune to the Duke of Nassau, lies upon a slope +of the hill close to the convent, of Eberbach or Erbach. This convent +was founded in 1131, but is now a lunatic asylum. The churches here are +very fine. Opposite the shore lies Rhine Island, and forms a noble park. +Walluff, with few inhabitants, is regarded as the commencement of the +Rheingau, or wine district, along which we had coasted. Biberich, on the +duchy of Nassau, now comes upon our view; and the noble chateau of the +duke presents one of the finest mansions on the river. Here some of our +passengers left for Frankfort, and took the rail; but we wished to see +Mayence, and so went in the boat. The city looks finely, and its red +towers and steeples make quite a show. This city belongs to the Duke of +Hesse Darmstadt, and is garrisoned by Austrians and Prussians, in equal +force, generally eight or ten thousand. Exclusive of these, the +population is nearly forty thousand. We walked about, and looked at the +fine Cathedral, which was sadly shut up by houses and shanties. It was +too late to enter it. You may be sure, Charley, that we found out the +monument to John Guttemberg, the inventor of movable types. It is of +bronze, and was designed by Thorwaldsen, and stands in front of the +Theatre, once a university. After perambulating the town till weary, we +came to the bridge of boats, sixteen hundred and sixty-six feet long, +and which connects Mayence with Cassel, a strongly fortified place, +where the railroad depot is located. At this bridge are several boat +mills, or tide mills, where grain is ground by the tidal action. They +look strangely, but work well. On the bridge we met many Austrian +officers in rich uniforms, most of them young, and, I thought, very +aristocratical in their bearing. Our dinner on board the boat was as +profuse as the day before; and I must not forget to tell you that we had +an English lordling, son of a former premier, on board, with his lady, +on their matrimonial tour. He was the worst-mannered young man that I +have seen in Europe; and when he had ogled the company sufficiently with +his glass, and manifested his contempt pretty plainly, he and his betook +themselves to the interior of his carriage. He was quite young, and may +grow better behaved. We took the ears at dark, and after riding +twenty-two miles found ourselves at Frankfort, having passed through +Hochheim, where the vineyards are so costly that the railroad company +had to pay well for the passage-way. Here we put up at the Hotel +Angleterre. Forgive this long letter; but I could not well shorten it, +and I want you to know just what we saw. + +Always yours, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 42. + + +STRASBURG. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +James's long letter gave you a pretty correct view of our passage from +Coblentz to Frankfort. You will recollect that we went up the Rhine, +which gave us more time to look about; but I fancy that in going down +stream the shores would show to better advantage, if possible, than in +the ascent. From Coblentz to Mayence the river is narrower than before; +and every rock more precipitous than its neighbor, has a castle. How +some of these towers were built, or could be got at, seems a mystery. I +had no idea of the number of these robbers' nests, for such they were. +Much as I love the Hudson, yet I cannot help saying that the Rhine is +_the_ river of the world, so far as I have seen the watery highways. +Frankfort is one of the free towns of Germany, and lies on the Maine. It +has about sixty-five thousand inhabitants, of whom seven thousand are +Jews. I like the city much, and think a residence here would be very +agreeable. Some of the modern streets are very handsome, and the +dwellings are fine. The old part of the town is old enough. At our hotel +we found a sentinel on guard, in honor of an Austrian general staying at +the house. The house is a capital one, like all the other great hotels +we have yet seen on the continent. We all went to see the Roemer, or Town +Hall, which was built about 1425, and which is quite famous for its +historical associations. Here the German emperors were formerly elected +and inaugurated. We saw the great hall where they were entertained and +had crowned heads for waiters. Here, on its walls, are all the portraits +of the series of emperors from Conrad I. to Francis II., and each +emperor has his motto underneath. Some of these are quaint enough. +Directly in front of this building is the Roemerberg, or Market-place, in +which the carousing incident to coronation used to occur; and it is +large enough to accommodate a vast assembly. We rode along the banks of +the river, to see a pretty little palace belonging to Duke Somebody, and +especially to see the grounds and hothouses. They were exquisitely +beautiful. As we were here upon a holiday of the church, the Museum was +closed, and we lost the sight of some good pictures. We were much +pleased with a visit to the garden of Mr. Bethman, a banker, where we +saw a pretty little collection of statuary, the gem of which is +Dannecker's statue of Ariadne. The building in which these are placed is +neat. We, of course, went to see No. 74 in the Hersch-Graben, where +Goethe was born, in 1749. In the corner house of the Dom Platz, Luther +once dwelt We rode through the Jews' quarters; and, of all the +wretched-looking streets, I think the worst and filthiest is that in +which Baron Rothschild was born. As we passed a Sabbath here, we +attended the English Episcopal Church, a neat building. The service was +well read by the chaplain, and an excellent sermon was preached by a +stranger. After service I spoke to the chaplain, who was quite anxious +to hear about the prospects of Popery in America. He seemed to have very +just views of the system, and anxiously deprecated its influence in our +Country. + +We visited many shops, and found the richest collections of curiosities +and antiquities. Here we met with several American friends upon their +tour; and at Frankfort we took leave of our New York friends, whose +kindness and agreeable company we had been favored with for a few days. + +We took the rail for Heidelberg, on our way to Strasburg. The whole of +the first few miles was through a very flat-looking country, and our +interest was not called out till we came to Darmstadt, a fine town, with +thirty thousand inhabitants. We saw a tall column, but could not find +out its historical allusion. This is the capital of the grand duchy of +Hesse Darmstadt. In passing through Odenwald, we saw a tract of woody +country; and off to our left we were quite sure that the scenery must be +very beautiful. The hills in the distance form the boundary on the +eastern part of the valley of the Rhine; and the mountain ranges are +richly covered with vineyards and castles all the way, parallel with the +railroad. This beautiful region is called the Bergstrasse, and I am sure +a week or two on these hills would amply repay the pedestrian. It is in +these wild regions of romance that the Castle of Rodenstein is found, +some ten miles from Erbach; and not far from it Castle Schnellert, where +the wild Jager is supposed to live, who haunts the forests and gives +spectral forewarnings of battles. Off to our left there was a constantly +shifting panoramic view of hill top and ruins. + +Heidelberg is sweetly situated on the bank of the Neckar--a beautiful +river, and one that I long to trace by its course through wood and hill. +This town is famous for its university and castle. It has about seven +hundred and fifty students. We could only see the castle, and admire its +exterior. The college was founded in 1386, and is very distinguished as +a law school. The library is very large and excellent. The barbarian +Tilly is said to have provided litter for his cavalry from books and +MSS. out of this then magnificent collection. The ruin of this glorious +old castle dates from 1764, when it was burnt by lightning. It is built +of red stone. If I live, I hope to visit this place again, and make a +thorough exploration of this stupendous ruin. It is here, in a cellar, +that the largest wine butt in the world is found, and it will contain +eight hundred hogsheads. It has long been empty, however. I never longed +to follow a river more than I do this same Neckar--it is so clear, and +all my glimpses of it have been so filled up with quiet beauty and wild +scenery. We saw a hill, near the town, which affords the finest view, we +are told, in Germany, and even takes in Strasburg Cathedral spire, which +is quite ninety miles off! + +From Heidelberg we again took the cars for Kehl, about four miles from +Strasburg, a distance of nearly ninety miles. The first-class cars are +very luxurious and reasonable; second class, excellent, and very +genteel-looking persons using them. Lord Cowley, father of Lady Bulwer, +wife of the minister from England at Washington, was in the cars with +us, and two of his children--one a beautiful little girl. They were +going to Baden, and were accompanied by a governess. + +We found no more of the extraordinary beauty that had made our morning +ride so charming. Bruchsal seemed a dull place, as seen from the +station; and Durlach had not much greater attractions. Carlsruhe is +quite a place, has some repute for its baths, and is the capital of the +grand duchy of Baden. Off to the south of this town we saw the skirts of +the Black Forest. All around we saw a fine growth of poplars. Passing +Etlingen and Muggensturm, we come to Rastadt--rather a pretty station, +and the town is fortified. At Oos our passengers for Baden took a branch +train, which, after three miles' ride, brought them into the famous +Baden-Baden. We reached Kehl, which is a mere village on the Rhine, but +has seen enough of war. Here we took an omnibus and started for +Strasburg, distant some four miles. When we reached the French +custom-house, over the river, we had quite a searching time; and even a +flask of cologne was taxed some twenty cents. We were weary enough, and +glad to get into quarters, which we established at the Ville de Paris, +a very superior house, with excellent rooms and elegant furniture, while +the cookery was perfect. To-morrow we have enough to see and to do. +To-night we shall retire early; but, go where we may, we shall furnish +you the promised account of our wanderings. + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 43. + + +STRASBURG. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Long before we entered this city, we obtained a fine view of its great +glory, the Cathedral spire. What an object! It does not seem as if +hammer and chisel had had any thing to do here. I can almost fancy that +this spire was thought out and elaborated by mere intellect. It would be +long ere I grew weary of looking at this wondrous work of man. The more +you examine this edifice, the more you are impressed with its +magnificence. Let me tell you about this same minster, as it is called. +The spire is four hundred and seventy-four feet high--one hundred and +forty feet higher than St. Paul's, and twenty-four feet higher than the +Pyramids of Egypt. The architect was Erwin of Steinbach, and his plans +survived him. He died in 1318, when the work was carried on by his son. +The tower was not finished till four hundred and twenty-five years +after the commencement of the building, and then Hueltz, from Cologne, +came to effect the undertaking. The tracery of this lofty pinnacle is +inimitably beautiful. We ascended the spire, and I can assure you that +the prospect amply repays the trouble. We saw the winding, silvery +Rhine, the Black Forest, and the long line of the Vosges Mountains. I +never felt more keenly my inability to describe a place than when I +walked through this gorgeous sanctuary. You must see it, to form an +adequate idea of its grandeur. The nave was begun in 1015, and completed +in 1275. The choir is yet older, and is thought to belong to the times +of Charlemagne. The large rose window, over the front entrance, is +thought to be the finest specimen of stained glass now existing. The +stone pulpit of 1486 is the grandest we have yet seen, and in better +taste than some of the carved wood pulpits in Belgium. The columns are +very massive. One of the chief attractions in this church is the +mechanical clock, which occupies a large space at the left hand as you +enter the building. The true time to see it is at twelve o'clock, when +Death strikes the hour, the apostles all pass before you, a large cock +up above flaps his wings and crows admirably three times, flags are +waved, and the affair ends. Here, close by, is the architect Erwin's +effigy, in stone. + +We next went to St. Thomas's Church, to see the superb tomb of Marshal +Saxe, which is a work of great merit. In a vault we saw the remains of a +Count of Nassau and his daughter, who had been coffined down for--I +forget how long, but I think more than two centuries. It was here that +Guttemburg began his experiments in printing, which he perfected at +Mayence. We made some purchases here of embroidery, which we thought +very beautiful, and also cheap. General Kleber's tomb and monument are +in the Place d'Armes. Of course, we did not visit Strasburg and forget +that it furnishes _pate's des fois gras_. We obtained some good +engravings of the churches and other points of interest, and, on a fine +afternoon, took the railroad for Basle. + +Yours affectionately, + +GEORGE. + + + + +Letter 44. + + +BASLE. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We took the cars from Strasburg in the afternoon for this place. The +distance is eighty-six miles; and, owing to some twenty way stations, we +were nearly five hours on the rail; but the beauty of the scenery +reconciled us to a prolongation of the time usually spent on such a +journey. The general route was over a flat country, with sundry bridges +over small streams; but, off to our right, we were close to the Vosges +Mountains, which kept us company nearly every mile of the journey. I +suppose you know that Strasburg is very strongly fortified. We saw its +works to great advantage when leaving the city by the train. We were +much assisted in our knowledge of places on the mountains by a fine +panoramic volume of engravings which we bought at Strasburg, and which +really gives a capital idea of the entire scene of travel. I will just +name the principal places that we passed by and through, that you may +trace on the map and read about them, for some are important towns. St. +Erstein is a place of four thousand inhabitants; Benfield is very pretty +indeed; and close by is a fine-looking town, with a fine situation. We +saw a noble spire off to our left. Schlestadt has ten thousand +inhabitants, and is fortified. From it chimneys, we supposed it must be +a manufacturing place. The view of the Vosges here is very imposing. +They are generally with rolling summits; and upon some eminence, jutting +out, stands a castle. The Hoher Koenigsberg is the largest castle of the +range, and it was destroyed during the thirty years' war, in 1633. Here +we saw fine vineyards. Colmar looks like a very prosperous place. Its +manufactories make quite a show, and all around we saw well-built cotton +factories; and the entire spot had a Rhode Island look. Dr. C. turned +our attention to the village of Turckheim, about three miles off, where +Marshal Turenne beat the Imperialists in 1675. Egnisheim and its +three-towered castle is a small affair. Bolwiller is a perfect vineyard +all around, and the wines of this region are excellent. Nothing, hardly, +seems to be cultivated but the vine. Opposite to this place is the +loftiest of the Vosges; and my panorama makes it four thousand seven +hundred feet above the sea. Muehlhausen is a very active, busy-looking +town, with a population of nearly thirty thousand. Here the fine cotton +prints of France are fabricated. Much of the property is owned at Basle, +we were afterwards told. This place has to obtain its cotton from Havre +and Marseilles; and even coal has to come from a distance. + +It was dark when we took an omnibus at the terminus; and, after riding +over an old bridge, we were very soon established at a princely hotel +known as the Trois Rois. This house is on the banks of the Rhine, and +its windows command a very fine view. The historical reminiscences of +Basle are interesting, and its position very commanding. Here the Rhine +is bounded by the hills of the Black Forest and the Jura range. + +Next morning we took a stroll to see the lay of the land; and we found +ourselves on a terrace overlooking the Rhine, and forming a part of the +cathedral ground. O, it was glorious to look at, Charley. There, +stretched away on the other side, were the hills of the Black Forest, +whose legends we have so often pored over. This terrace is finely-wooded +with linden and chestnut-trees. We walked back to town, and called upon +our consul, Mr. Burchardt, and found him very kind and friendly. He gave +himself up to us for the entire day, and became our guide to all the +objects of interest. He dined with us; and then we all went to his +charming country-house, about one and a half miles from town, and took +tea with his family. Our first object was the Cathedral. This is a red +sandstone church, with two steeples, and was consecrated in 1019. The +crypt, no doubt, is as ancient as this date. Here is the tomb of the +empress, wife of Rudolph of Hapsburg. Here, too, we saw the tombstone of +Erasmus, who died in 1536. In the cloisters, which are very noble, are +the monuments of OEcolampadius, Grynaeus and Myer, the reformers. This +church is Protestant. It is plain, but venerable. In the chapter-house, +which we visited, was held the Council of Basle, which lasted from 1436 +to 1444. The room is just as it then appeared, and the very cushions on +the seats are still preserved. Our next visit was to the Holbein +Gallery, where the largest collection of paintings by this master is to +be seen. Here we saw the fragments of the Dance of Death, but which +some say are of an earlier date than Holbein's day. I liked his +portraits better than his other pieces. One sketch of Sir Thomas More's +family is very fine. We also saw the library, and a large collection of +Roman antiquities. The portraits are very fine at the library; and we +saw those of Euler and Bernouilli, the mathematicians. At the university +we saw the building, and received polite attentions from the librarian +and Latin professor. We also saw the professor of chemistry, renowned +for his discovery of gun cotton. The collection of MSS. is very large +and rich; and we had the gratification to have in our hands the +handwriting of several letters by Melancthon, Calvin, Luther, Erasmus, +&c., &c. I think this is a good place to live in for purposes of study. +At Basle there is a large missionary seminary; and a great many of the +best missionaries in India and Africa were educated here. We also +visited the private reading-room of a club, and found a very good +library there. On the table were several American papers--the New York +Herald, Express, and the Boston Mercantile Journal. After dinner we took +a carriage and repaired to St. Jacob, a quiet village, about one mile +from Basle. Here we found a neat little church, and, at the junction of +two roads, a Gothic cross, to commemorate the famous battle of St. +Jacob, in 1444, when sixteen hundred Swiss fought the French army under +the dauphin for a whole day. The French were over sixteen thousand +strong. Only ten Swiss escaped the slaughter. Lest you should think me +at fault upon the numbers in this battle, I would say that I know +Watteville calls the Swiss twelve hundred, and the French thirty +thousand; but I quote from Swiss historians, who are deemed good +authority. We went into the little tavern and drank some red wine, which +goes by the name of Swiss blood. We then ascended an eminence commanding +a fine view of the city, the river, and the Jura Mountains. At the +summit we found a church; and the parsonage next to it looked very cosy +and comfortable. The pastor's children were running about, and were very +noble-looking boys. We learnt that while the stipend of the pastor was +very small,--as is the case in Switzerland,--yet he was a man of wealth. + +We were quite amused with the market day here. Droves of country people +were in the streets--the women in country costume; and on the ground +there were vast collections of crockery, which seemed one of the chief +articles of traffic. + +A charming drive, late in the afternoon, took us to the consul's +hospitable abode; and there, with his lady, we had a thoroughly Yankee +tea-time. In the evening we walked back to the city, crossing the old +bridge. + +Yours affectionately, + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 45. + + +LAUSANNE. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We left Basle on a bright morning, at six o'clock, having places in the +_coupe_ of the diligence for Berne, a distance of seventy-six miles. We +took this route in order to enjoy the remarkable scenery which marks the +Moutiers Valley, which is the most romantic in the Jura Mountain range. +This journey entirely takes the palm, for enjoyment, of any in our tour; +and I think I am more surprised and gratified than I was on the Rhine. +Certainly the prospect was more constantly grand and awe inspiring. We +started with six horses,--three abreast,--and jogged on, at about six +miles the hour, over as good roads as I ever travelled. They are, also, +the cleanest you ever saw. All along, at intervals, we saw men with +badges on their hats, who appeared to have charge of the highway. Every +thing on the road is scraped up; and at every quarter of a mile, or +less, there is at the wayside an enclosure for manure, into which every +thing is turned. On all the line of travel in Switzerland, we were +struck with the careful way in which heaps of manure are protected by +large bands of corded hay, twisted around. Then, too, in the villages +and towns we were all interested with the enormous stone troughs for +watering cattle. Some of these appeared to me full twenty feet long, +and two or three deep. On our way from Basle we passed the battle ground +of St. Jacob; and some way farther on we saw the battle field of +Dornach, at which place the Swiss obtained a victory over the Austrians +in 1499. A little before reaching Tavannes we ascended a hill, and came +to a wonderful archway across the road--perhaps natural. On it is a +Roman inscription. The arch is, I should think, nearly fifty feet high +and fifteen feet in depth. We then went on to Bienne; and a +pretty-looking place it is. We left it on our right, and our road was +very hilly, really mountainous, and the air was sharp. As we walked for +two or three miles to help the horses, we found the wild strawberries +offered for sale very pleasant. We reached Berne late in the evening; +and the entrance to the town, through a noble avenue of trees called the +Engae, was very pleasant. We repaired to the Faucon, and enjoyed the +repose of a long night. + +Berne is a large town, with a population of nearly thirty thousand. It +lies on the banks of the Aar, which goes almost round the city. The +great elevation of the city--seventeen hundred feet above the sea--gives +it quite an appearance on approaching it. Then the houses are all built +upon arched pathways, and they form arcades, very much like the old city +of Chester, in England. We noticed several watch towers, evidently very +ancient; and one in the town, near our hotel, has a queer clock, which, +like that at Strasburg, is mechanical. On striking, out comes a cock and +flaps away with his wings, and then little images appear, and bears pass +by a puppet, seated on a throne. Bears seem to be the guardian angels of +the place, and are the arms of the town. We were very much pleased with +an extensive prospect of the Bernese Alps, from a terrace overhanging +the rapid river. I cannot tell you how many peaks we saw covered with +snow. Our panorama, purchased here, enumerates more than a dozen; and +among these are the Wetterhorn, Stockhorn, and Jungfrau. We greatly +enjoyed a fine sunset from this spot. The Cathedral is a noble +structure, built between 1421 and 1573, and from designs by the son of +the architect of the Cathedral at Strasburg. Some of the work here is +exceedingly fine. The great entrance is very imposing, and has rich +sculptures. Here, too, are some beautifully-painted windows--one +describing the pope grinding the four evangelists in a mill, out of +which comes wafers, is very curious. The organ is very fine, and the +case one of the richest in Europe. It has four rows of keys and +sixty-six stops. The font is of black granite, and has the date of 1525, +which is three years previous to the church reformation in this canton. +It has some finely-sculptured images of the Trinity, Virgin Mary, and +St. Vincent, the patron saint of the church. We were pointed out the +communion table, of marble, which is an immense block, and before the +reformation it was an altar at Lausanne. There are some fine monuments, +having great antiquity. + +In the choir we were delighted with the old prebendal stalls, over which +were figures of Christ and his apostles, and on the opposite side +prophets, all in carved wood. One of the prophets was a capital likeness +of Luther. + +As we were leaving this noble edifice, we met a minister coming in; he +wore a short, black gown, and had a deep white ruff on his shoulders. + +The library of the town embraces about forty-five thousand volumes--and +well assorted, too. What a reproach it is to us that, excepting in +Providence, hardly any small city has what can be called a library! + +The Museum we could not examine. I spoke of bears: well, the town keeps +several of these fellows at a place called the Baerengraben. + +Much did we long to take a trip into the Bernese Oberland, but it was +not practicable; so we started for Lausanne by diligence, a distance of +fifty-six miles, and were eleven hours on the way. We saw much fine +scenery, but nothing that would compare with the Munster Thal or Valley +of Moutiers, and which I think would pay any lover of nature to come +from America to look at and travel through. The places we went through +were Morat, famous for its battle in 1476; Avenches, the Roman +Aventicum; Payerne, &c. The last few miles were of great labor in +ascent; and as it was pitch dark for some miles, I cannot tell much +about what is said to be beautiful. + +At Lausanne we went to the Hotel Gibbon, and a lovelier spot than the +rear of this mansion eye never rested upon. Again we were weary, and +found good beds very inviting. + +Yours, &c., + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 46. + + +LAUSANNE AND GENEVA. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We are staying in one of the most romantic and beautiful spots that I +ever had the pleasure to visit. The population is seventeen thousand, +and on the increase. It is the favorite resort of the English; and no +wonder, for here are displays of the glory and of the power of the +Creator rarely to be seen. The town stands on a mount, and descends +gradually to the lake. On every side are most precipitous ravines; and +the streets are the most break-neck-looking highways I ever saw. +Putnam's Leap would be thought nothing of at Lausanne. + +Our hotel overlooks Gibbon's garden, and we saw his trees and seat. +Here he composed his eloquent work on the Roman empire. His portrait is +in the hotel dining-room. The prospect surpasses in richness all that I +had fancied. Before us lie the Alps, with snowy tops; between us and +these is the glassy lake, and on its waters we notice a regatta, the +boats all adorned with flags and the crews with ribbons. There are, I +should think, from fifty to seventy-five boats in sight. Up in the Alps +there is a fire in the woods; and the volume of smoke and flashing of +flame form a fine addition to the scene. + +The temperature of the climate is very favorable to health; and now, in +June, it reminds us of our finest clear days at Newport. + +On Sabbath morning we repaired to a charming little Episcopal church, +near the lake; and the walk of a mile down hill was delightful. On both +sides of the road were fine villas, and on the left one estate had its +long wall defended by a hedge of roses in full bloom; such a hedge is +rarely to be witnessed. We heard a prosy sermon from the old gentleman +who has officiated there for some years. I noticed a lady and four sweet +little girls who sat in the next pew to us, and was convinced that she +was an English lady; and when we overtook her ascending the hill, on our +return, I took the liberty to ask a question about the church. She very +politely gave me the information, and a conversation commenced. She told +me, as a stranger, what I ought to see; and when we were leaving her, +she politely offered us an invitation to join her family in the evening, +to take a walk to the mountain overhanging Lausanne, known as the +Signal, and from whence, in olden time, the watch-fire used to be +kindled when the cantons were called to arm for liberty, or danger was +expected. This kindness we accepted; and when she gave me her address, I +found I had to call at the Hotel de Ville. Well, at half past six, the +lads and I repaired to the mansion, a very venerable pile, and we found +that our kind friend was no less a personage than the wife of the +syndic, or mayor of the city. We were most kindly received and +introduced to his honor--a fine-looking, elderly gentleman, who spoke no +English; but his family conversed generally in our language. We sallied +forth, and took a walk up, up, up,--never will the boys forget that +tramp; indeed, Charley, it was the hardest affair I ever went through; +but after the ascent was achieved, the recompense was ample. Such a +survey of lake, shore, Alps, city, villages, vineyards, cannot be +enjoyed elsewhere. It was very cold in these upper regions; and as we +descended, the shades of night were over us, and a beautiful moon made +its appearance. When parting from our friends, they urged our joining +them at seven o'clock to visit the Cathedral, with the mayor as our +guide. I accepted the polite offer, but the boys were frightened at the +thought of another ascent; for the minster is perched upon a cliff, and +you ascend some hundreds of steps to reach the platform. + +At seven we were on hand, and with the syndic and his sweet little girl +we visited the finest Gothic pile in Switzerland, which was built in +1275, and consecrated by Gregory X. The form is that of the Latin cross. +Formerly it had two towers; but one was destroyed by lightning, in 1825. +Here are several fine monuments and tombs of interest; one an effigy in +mail armor of Otho of Grandeson, and another of Pope Felix V., who +resigned the papacy and became a monk, and a very beautiful one to the +wife of Stratford Canning; the figures of which are eight in number, and +two of them are by Canova; also the tomb of Bernard de Menthon, founder +of the St. Bernard Hospice. + +We returned to the Hotel de Ville and took breakfast with Madame Gadaud, +for whom and her kind family we shall long cherish grateful +recollections. + +From Lausanne we took boat for Vevay. The port of Lausanne is the little +village of Ouchy. I ought to tell you that John Philip Kemble, the great +tragedian, is buried two miles from this place. We found the excursion +on the lake very agreeable, and passed many pretty villages on the left +shore till we came to Vevay, a sweet little town, of five thousand +inhabitants, and is embowered in vineyards. It is about one mile and a +quarter from the foot of the Alps. Here we had a view of the Castle of +Chillon, and Byron was on our tongues at once. My great object in coming +here was to see St Martin's Church, for here are buried Ludlow, the +regicide, and Broughton, who read the sentence of Charles I. Charles II. +could never get the Swiss to deliver these patriots into his hands. In +the afternoon we took another boat and went to Geneva in about five +hours, and stopped at Ouchy, Morges, Rolle, Nyon, and Coppet. At Morges +is a fine old castle, in good condition. Nearly opposite Rolle we saw +the hoary head of Mont Blanc, towering above the giant brotherhood of +Alpine heights. We did not see Lake Leman in a storm, and though +certainly beautiful in its adjuncts, not more so than Lake Erie. At +Coppet was the residence of Madame De Stael. + +We reached Geneva in the evening at seven, and went to the Hotel L'Eou. +Here we were delighted to meet again with the Rev. Dr. Murray and Dr. +Chetwood, and also to find the Rev. Mr. Chickering and Rev. Mr. Jacobus, +with his family, and other valued friends. + +The approach to Geneva from the lake is very imposing; but I was less +pleased with the town itself than I expected to be. Its position is very +grand. Its history is every thing, however. The Cathedral Church of St. +Peter is a fine specimen of the Gothic of the eleventh century. The +sounding board is the same under which Calvin preached. + +The population is about forty thousand, including the suburbs, and +thousands of tourists are every year residents for a few days. We had a +pleasant morning at the Museum, where are some good pictures and many +curiosities. In the library are Calvin's letters in MS., forty or fifty +volumes of MS. sermons, &c. This same Calvin and this old town of Geneva +have had much to do with our own blessed country; and we feel the agency +of this man and this town in all our ten thousand joys and comforts. + +I could not forget that here was the home of Merle D'Aubigne, the +historian of the Protestant reformation, and that here, too, is the +residence of the learned Gaussen, the author of Theopneusty, and of the +venerable Caesar Malan. Calling upon this last-named gentleman, I was +delighted to find that the Evangelical Association of Geneva was in +annual session. This is the great Protestant body with which the +American Evangelical Union is in alliance, and for whose operations our +friend Dr. Baird has awakened so lively an interest. I went to the +church where the meeting was convened, and was introduced to Count +George, a very pious Frenchman of fortune, who resides here and devotes +himself to the cause of the Protestant religion. He is a Baptist, but is +connected with the church which embraces several evangelical +denominations. The count presided with great ability; he is a very +elegant man, about thirty-four, I should imagine. + +I had the pleasure to hear D'Aubigne give a report of his visit to Great +Britain. He spoke for two hours. He is quite the orator, and had entire +command of the audience, who wept and laughed as he proceeded. The +historian is a very noticeable man, and strongly reminded us all of +President Wayland, to whom his resemblance is very striking. + +Dr. Murray made a few remarks on behalf of his brethren, and we were all +invited to a _soiree_ at the assembly-rooms in the evening. Perhaps two +hundred and fifty ladies and gentlemen were present. Several addresses +and prayers were made. I was announced for an address, but came late on +the list; and having no fancy to be translated by a man at my elbow, I +quietly withdrew at the fitting time. I was much pleased with Professor +Gaussen, who is a very accomplished gentleman. He looks about +forty-five, but told me he was very much older. + +The clergy present at this convocation were from various parts of France +and all the Swiss cantons, and I never saw a finer set of men in any +clerical assembly. Pastor Malan is exceedingly venerable in his +appearance. He is about sixty-eight years of age, his hair gray, and +worn long in the neck, with a good deal of curl to it. His gait is +quick, and he has much the manner of the venerable Dr. Beecher. This +patriarch of Geneva is very cheerful, knows every one, and has a word +for every one. He told me that he loved Americans, but that they had +spoiled his habitation by stealing two of his daughters, who, he +explained to me, were married to excellent clergymen in the United +States. + +We met with great kindness in this city from Mr. Delorme, a gentleman +who once resided in New York. He invited us to accompany his family on +an excursion to the summit of the Saleve, a mountain in Savoy, which is +three thousand one hundred and fifty feet above the lake. We went in two +carriages, and stopped at a village on the mountain side, where we had +cakes, coffee, and wine. Here, in a sweet little arbor, surrounded with +roses, we gazed at Mont Blanc, and on a near summit could very clearly +trace the profile of Napoleon. He looks "like a warrior taking his +sleep." The illusion surpasses in accuracy of expression any thing that +I know of that is similar; there are chin, nose, eye, and the old cocked +hat, while the eternal vapor over the summit of the peak forms the +feather. + +We looked down in a ravine and saw the Aar with its icy stream. The +carriages went round to meet the party, and the ascent was made. The +mountain seems to hang over Geneva, though several miles off. We were +greatly pleased with a few good houses, in fine positions; but Savoy is +not Switzerland. Here Popery is rampant and pauperism evident. Beggars +beset our carriages, and the people looked squalid. + +[Illustration: Swiss Cottage.] + +I forgot to tell you how much we were pleased with the cottages in +Switzerland; they are quite cheerful looking,--some very fine +affairs,--but many are not very unlike our western log-houses. + +We returned to Geneva at about ten, and found at our friend's house a +most sumptuous repast provided for our entertainment. I never sat down +at a more elegant supper table. Every luxury seemed placed before us, +including the richest wines of the Rhine. + +The Roman salad, a peculiar kind of lettuce, which we saw in France, and +here again, seemed to us all as quite different from our ordinary kinds; +and I have at Genera obtained four or five varieties of the seed for +home cultivation. + +While at this city we procured some good specimens of wooden ware, Swiss +cottages, &c., and the boys bought watches, jewelry, &c., for presents. + +We were all delighted with a little island in the centre of a bridge +which goes across the lake; it was a favorite retreat of Rousseau, and +there is a statue to his memory. + +Calvin's residence is still to be seen, No. 116 Rue des Chanoins. We saw +the place where Servetus was burnt. The place and prospect were too +beautiful for such a foul desecration. But Calvin's virtues were his +own, and the faults he fell into belonged to the influence of the age. +It was much so with those greatest and best of men, the New England +Pilgrim Fathers. I know they had faults, but they were only spots upon +the polished mirror. God reared them up, a rare race of men, for a rare +purpose; and I do not like to hear them abused because they were not +perfect. If Laud had come to Plymouth Rock instead of Brewster, Bonner +instead of Carver, what kind of a community would have been established +and handed down? + +In Geneva, too, we had the pleasure to meet a valued friend, Mr. B., +from Providence, who has been travelling extensively, and gathering up +the treasures of other cities to enrich the one of his birth. + +To-morrow we are off for Paris, and go by diligence to Dijon; thence by +railroad. + + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 47. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We started from Geneva in the diligence for Dijon, a long drag of one +hundred and twenty miles. The weather was oppressively hot, and +certainly the roads could not well be more dusty. We had two very +gentlemanly companions, Swiss, who were going to London to visit the +exhibition. We entered France about four miles on our way, and came to +Ferney, where Voltaire so long resided. We passed Gex, and ascended the +Jura; then to La Vattay. The view from the mountain of the lake and Mont +Blanc, together with the Alpine range, is never to be forgotten by one +who has the good fortune to see it. I feel that I am acquiring new +emotions and gathering up new sources of thought in this journey, and +that I cannot be a trifler and waster away of life in such a world as +that I live in. I find in every place so much to read about, and study +over, and think upon, that I now feel as if life itself would not be +long enough to do all I should like to effect. One thing is certain, +Charley; I cannot be indolent without feeling that, with the motives and +stimulus of this tour pressing upon me, I shall be very guilty. + +The scenery of this journey has set me thinking; and so I have written +rather sentimentally, but truly. + +At St. Laurent we came to the French custom-house, and a pretty thorough +overhauling they made. I believe the fellows hooked some of our +engravings, which they carried out of the room. + +Still up, till we reached Morez, the Jura's greatest elevation. The last +half was travelled in the night; so I cannot give you the line of march. +We got to Dijon about eight in the morning, and only had time to get a +hasty breakfast at the railroad station; but we had quite a look at the +city before entering the cars for Paris. + +Dijon is the capital town of the old Burgundy, and is a fine old place, +with nearly thirty thousand inhabitants. Here is a great show of +churches, and they seem built for all ages. The Cathedral is a +noble-looking edifice. We had no time to see the old ducal palace, which +has so many historical events connected with it. We saw some beautiful +promenades, but only glanced at them. Bossuet was born here, and St. +Bernard only a mile outside the walls, in a castle yet standing. + +The new railroad had just been opened to Paris, and is one hundred and +ninety-six miles and a half of most capital track. We went through +Verrey, Montbard, Nuits, Tonnerre, La Roche, Joigny, Sens, Montereau, +Fontainebleau, Melun, to Paris. Montbard gave birth to Buffon, the +naturalist. Nuits is famous for the vintage of its own name, Romanee, +and other choice wines of Burgundy. Near Tonnerre is the chateau of +Coligny d'Audelot, brother to the admiral massacred on St. Bartholomew's +night. Sens is famous for its Cathedral, which is apparently very +splendid; and here are the vestments of Thomas a Becket, and the very +altar at which he knelt, all of which I wanted to see. Fontainebleau is +beautifully placed in the midst of a forest. Here is a palace, and at +this place Napoleon bade farewell to the Old Guard, in 1814. This place +is celebrated for its grapes, raised in the vicinity. Melun was known +in Caesar's time, and in 1520 was taken by Henry V., of England, and held +ten years. We reached Paris on the evening of Saturday, and again +occupied our old quarters at the Hotel Windsor. I went off to my +favorite bathing-house at the Seine, and felt wondrously refreshed after +the heat and dust of more than three hundred miles and two days' +journeying. + +Yours affectionately, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 48. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We have again arrived at this charming city, and hope to pass a few +pleasant days, which will be chiefly devoted to purchases of clothing +and some of the beautiful articles which are so abundant in the shops of +this metropolis. Besides, we have some few places to visit before we +return to England. On Sabbath day we went to the Methodist Chapel, near +the Church of the Madeleine, and heard a capital sermon from Dr. +Ritchie, the president of the Canadian Conference. In the evening I +preached. The congregations were very good, and the preacher of the +chapel seems a very gentlemanly and pleasant man. In the congregation I +had the pleasure to meet with our eloquent countryman and my old +friend, the Rev. James Alexander, D.D., of New York, and I announced +that he would preach on Wednesday evening. We went into the Madeleine +and spent nearly an hour. The house is very splendid; but it does not +appear devotional, or likely to inspire suitable feelings. I prefer the +Gothic pile, or a plainer temple. It is all painting, gilding, flowers, +and form. Here Popery shows her hand, and outdoes every thing that she +dares yet show in New England. The music was exquisite, and the voices +of the boys very sweet. Many of the people seemed in earnest. The +priests appeared to me devoid of interest. We went one morning to the +Pantheon. This noble church was formerly known as St. Genevieve, and was +rebuilt, in 1764, by a lottery under the auspices of Louis XV. The +portico is an imitation of the one at Rome on its namesake, and consists +of Corinthian columns nearly sixty feet high, and five feet in diameter. +The interior form is that of a Greek cross. Every thing here is grand +and majestically simple. Above the centre of the cross rises a dome of +great beauty, with a lantern above. In this building are one hundred and +thirty columns. The church is three hundred and two feet by two hundred +and fifty-five. In this building are the tombs and monuments of some of +the great men of France. Voltaire, Rousseau, Mirabeau, and Marat were +here buried, but were taken up by the Bourbons, at the restoration. La +Grange and Lannes also rest here. Here we saw seven copies of the famous +frescoes of Angelo and Raphael, in the Vatican, and several pieces of +statuary. The vaults extend beneath the church to a great length. I +believe this is the highest spot in Paris. On leaving the place, I +looked again at the dome, which greatly pleased me. It is three hundred +feet above the floor of the church; and the painting, by Gros, is very +fine. I think we have seen nothing of the kind that is so beautiful. It +is principally historical; and among the figures are Clovis, Clotilda, +Charlemagne, St. Louis, Louis XVIII., and the Duchess d'Angouleme, with +the infant Duke of Bourdeaux; and above all these, as in heaven, are +Louis XVI., Marie Antoinette, Louis XVII., and Madame Elizabeth. + +We were all thankful enough to find that the Louvre is at last open. We +walked there, looking with interest at the Tuileries, which I cannot +help admiring, although some think it devoid of architectural merit. Its +wide-spread pavilions of one thousand feet, looming up with +time-darkened walls, always please me. The palace of the Louvre is an +older edifice than the Tuileries; the newer portion was the work of the +reign of Louis XIV. The quadrangle is very fine, and the proportions of +the entire building admirable. Our business was with that part called +the Musee Royal, and here are the paintings and statues which have +given such a renown to Paris. You must recollect, my dear fellow, that +we cannot tell you all about these pictures, for the gallery is nearly +one third of a mile in length, and each side is filled up with canvas, +and the rooms are lofty. There was a time when almost all that +continental Europe thought exquisite in art was to be found here. +Bonaparte levied contributions on all the capitals he conquered, and +here he deposited his ill-gotten spoils. Once were seen in this place +the great masterpieces of Raphael, Guido, Titian, Domenichino, Murillo, +Rubens, Rembrandt, Potter, and a host of other artists who created +beauty; but when right overcame might, these pictures were returned to +their original owners. The catalogue we bought was a volume of five +hundred pages, and was only of statuary; and what could we do but walk, +wonder, and admire? To examine would be a task and pleasure for three +months. The department of statuary is very large; and here we saw +surprising fragments of the Grecian and Roman schools. The paintings by +Rubens here are numerous, but by no means as fine as those we saw at +Antwerp and in the museums of Holland. All the great masters are here, +and their works are finely arranged. We saw some of Claude Lorraine's +that were beautiful; and some pictures that I missed, since I was here +in 1836, have been transferred, I learn, by Louis Philippe, to +Versailles and other palaces. The gallery has been thoroughly painted +and beautified; and I never saw a place more radiant with gilding and +frescoes. The ceilings are very gorgeous. + +We selected a fine day for an excursion to Versailles; and, that we +might have our pleasure consulted as to sight-seeing, we preferred a +private carriage to the railroad. Versailles is about twelve miles from +Paris, and has some twenty-five or thirty thousand inhabitants. Henry +IV. used to resort here for hunting. Louis XIII. had a lodge here for +his comfort when following the chase. Louis XIV. turned the lodge into a +palace, and began operations in 1664. In 1681, he removed with his court +to this place. The Chapel was begun in 1699, and finished in 1710. The +Theatre was inaugurated at the marriage of Louis XVI., in 1770. A new +wing was built by Louis XVIII. Louis Philippe made great additions, and +devoted the palace to the noble purpose of a national depot of all that +is glorious in the history of France. What Louis Philippe did here you +may imagine, when I tell you that on the restoration and improvement of +Versailles he expended fifteen millions of francs. Why, Charley, the +stables are like mansions, and fine ones, too. The grand court is three +hundred and eighty feet wide, and the Place d'Armes, which leads to it, +is eight hundred feet wide. The iron railings which divide these are +very richly gilt. On either side the court are ranges of buildings +intended for the ministers of the king; and here are sixteen colossal +marble statues, which I well remember, at the Pont de la Concorde, in +Paris. They are great names of old and modern renown. In the centre of +the court is a colossal equestrian statue of Louis XIV. Now comes +another court devoted to royalty; and north and south are wings and +pavilions, one built by Louis XV., and the other by Louis Philippe. Next +we see the Cour de Marbre, around which is the old palace of Louis +XIII., crowned with balustrades, vases, trophies, and statues. South of +the Cour Royale is a small court called Cour des Princes, and divides +the wing built by Louis XVIII. from the main body of the southern wing. +The Grand Commun is a vast square edifice, enclosing a court. It has one +thousand rooms; and when Louis XIV. lived here, three thousand people +lodged: in this building. The chapel is exceedingly beautiful. It is in +Corinthian style, and is one hundred and forty-eight feet by +seventy-five, and ninety feet high. The front of the palace is +magnificent in the highest degree. "It presents a large projecting mass +of building, with two immense wings, and consists of a ground floor, +first floor of the Ionic style, and attic. The wings exceed five hundred +feet in length. The central front is three hundred and twenty feet +long, and each of its retiring sides two hundred and sixty feet. The +number of windows and doors _of this front_ are three hundred and +seventy-five." To describe the paintings and statuary would require a +volume. Let me say that here on the walls is all the history of France +that conduces to her glory. Every battle by land or sea, that she ever +won, is here; but not an allusion to her defeats. I looked hard for +Agincourt and Cressy; to say nothing of later conflicts, but they were +not to be seen. Some of these pictures have great merit, while others +are coarsely designed and executed. The historical series begins with +the Baptism of Clovis, in 495, and comes down to the present period, +with the illustration of about eleven hundred subjects. Then there are +about one hundred views of royal palaces, and series as follows: +Portraits of the kings of France, of French admirals, of constables of +France, and of marshals of France, to the number of some two hundred and +fifty; of French warriors, of personages who became celebrated in +different ways, which amount to nearly eighteen hundred; and here we +found several Americans. We noticed the likeness of Mr. Webster, by +Healy; but the canvas is too small, and the picture has faded. It is not +equal to the noble painting by Harding, which we saw just before we left +home. These last portraits afforded us a great treat; and here we saw +fine likenesses of the great ones of the earth. All the old pictures +have dates of death, and many of birth. The sculpture gallery is very +rich. There are more than six hundred figures, some of them exceedingly +expressive and beautiful. I should think that more than two hundred and +fifty of the historical paintings relate to events and persons connected +with the power of Napoleon. + +A very conspicuous feature is the series illustrating the conquest of +Algiers. These are four in number, and are immense as to size--I should +think thirty or forty feet in length. They are by Horace Vernet, and are +very effective. The apartments of the palace are perfectly regal. They +quite come up to one's preconceived ideas of the days of Louis le Grand. +I looked with interest at the door through which Marie Antoinette made +her escape, and whence she was dragged by the mob. The chamber of Louis +XIV. is just as it was in his time. Here the grand monarch died upon +that bed. There is the balustrade which fenced off the bed of majesty. +The ceiling of this room has the noblest painting in France. It is Jove +launching his bolts against the Titans, and was done by Paul Veronese. +Napoleon brought it from Venice. There seemed no end to the apartments. +We saw those of Madame Maintenon, the royal confessional, and the +dining-room of Louis XIV., which was the cabinet of Louis XVI. In this +room Louis XIV. entertained Moliere when he had been ill treated or +neglected by his ministers and courtiers. "I am told that the officers +of my household do not find that you were made to eat with them. Sit +down at this table, and let them serve us up breakfast." This was his +language to the great poet, when he had called him to his presence. The +king then helped him to a fowl's wing, and treated him in the most +gracious manner. He knew the worth of genius. The king could make a +marshal, but he could not make a poet. All the innumerable rooms have +beautiful paintings and works of art. One room, called the Saloon of the +Crusades, was delightfully interesting; and the great pictures of that +apartment did much to impress the events of the holy wars upon our +minds. + +George was in ecstasies with the _souvenirs_ of his idol the emperor; +and as we shall leave him for five or six months in Paris, I expect +that, in addition to the vast amount of knowledge which he really +possesses of the history of Napoleon, he will return home posted up with +all the _on dits_ of the worshippers of the emperor. + +The Theatre is very fine. It is quite large, and would be admired in any +capital. It was built by Louis XV., at the instance of Madame Pompadour. +It was Used by Louis Philippe, and we saw his seat. + +The gardens are world renowned; so we _must_ admire them. They did not +quite come up to my notions. The fountains, statuary, ponds, +orange-trees, are all very grand; but I cannot say that I was as pleased +as the boys were. Perhaps I was weary; I know I was anxious. I had an +old and valued friend living in Versailles, and was unable to ascertain +her residence. + +We went to the Grand and Petit Trianon. The great Trianon is a palace +with one story, and having two wings. The little Trianon has two +stories. Here royalty has loved to loiter when tired of the splendors of +the stupendous palace close by. Here are some exquisite paintings, +brought by Louis Philippe from the Louvre. + +We repaired to a good _cafe_ close by the palace, had a satisfactory +dinner with Mr. Hodgson and his family, and then took our carriage for +Paris. + +Our route to Versailles was through Passy, where our Dr. Franklin lived +in 1788, at No. 40 Rue Bass. Beranger resides in this village. It seems +a favorite resort for genius; for here have resided the Chancellor +D'Aguesseau, Boileau, Moliere, and Condorcet. + +We passed through Sevres, where the beautiful china is manufactured, and +drove through the Park of St. Cloud, the palace being in sight. + +On our return, we drove leisurely through the Bois de Boulogne. These +woods afford a fine opportunity to the Parisians for exercise, either on +horseback or in carriages, and it is to Paris what Hyde Park is to +London and the avenues are to New York, and much pleasanter than either. +Here have been fought most of the duels which, in other days, have been +so numerous in Paris, but which, I am glad to say, are getting into +disrepute. The boys will write you before we leave Paris. + +Yours always, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 49. + + +PARIS. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Our stay here at our present visit will be several days longer than we +expected. We have to get clothing and various articles which can be +obtained here to more advantage than in England or at home. We have been +to some large jewelry establishments and made selections of presents for +our absent but remembered friends. One morning we spent very pleasantly +at a celebrated depot of glass manufactures. The display was very large, +and also brilliant, and we made some pretty selections. The taste of the +French is very great, and a large part of this population must live by +furnishing the rest of the world with mere matters of _bijouterie_. + +We have had the pleasure to meet several of the doctor's acquaintances +from America; and among others whom we have often met have been Rev. Dr. +Alexander, Rev. Dr. Ritchie, Hon. H.J. Raymond, Mr. G.P. Putnam, Mr. +Bunting, Mr. Herring, Mr. Howard, &c. I have been much gratified in +getting acquainted with Mr. Raymond, whom I have met several times. He +is quite a young-looking man for one who holds his important position of +speaker of the New York House of Assembly. I should not think him to be +more than twenty-six or twenty-seven, though perhaps he is thirty. Mr. +Putnam is the author of my favorite book, "The World's Progress,"--the +book of dates,--and one which I recommend you, Charley, always to keep +on your table, within reach, for reference. + +If I live to return home, I have much to do that never before appeared +to me of so great importance. I want to become thoroughly conversant +with English and French history; for, in a certain sense, these +countries embody the history of the world. Not to know what happened +before we were born, is always to be children; and if my journey has +done me no other good, it has very clearly shown me how little I know, +and how very much I ought to understand, and must, if I would take my +place among intelligent, well-educated men. I am sure, too, that I have +acquired on this journey a desire to make improvement. Every where I +find the records of intellect and genius, and I cannot, for very shame, +be willing to go through life and enjoy the means of improvement, +without deriving profit. We have met with very kind attentions from Mr. +Hector Bossange, the great bookseller, who invited us to dinner. He is a +gentleman of great activity, and seems always engaged; and yet I have +noticed that such persons seem to have time for every one and every +thing. I have noticed this at home, as well as abroad. Some of these men +who have so much to do, and so many persons to see and be polite to, +must work very hard at times, or else they understand the way to get +through business in a patent method. These busy men seem to have read +every thing; and even in new books they keep up with the times. They +must do it, I guess, by remembering our old copy, that "spare minutes +are the golden sands of life." + +George is going to stay here for four or five months, and the doctor is +busy in finding him a suitable home and getting him an outfit. + +You would perhaps like to hear a little about the Hospital des +Invalides, where the old soldiers of France bring up when past labor. It +is a vast building, and covers sixteen acres, which, however, enclose +fifteen various courts. It is governed and managed by the senior marshal +of France, a lieutenant general, commandant of the hotel, a colonel +major, three adjutant majors, three sub-adjutant majors, one almoner, +two chaplains, one apothecary and ten assistants, twenty-six sisters of +charity, and two hundred and sixty servants. There are about one hundred +and seventy officers, and about three thousand fire hundred invalids in +all. This is a truly magnificent building, both architecturally +considered and in its interior arrangements. The council chamber is very +fine, and here are some admirable portraits and the best statue of +Napoleon that is extant. The dome is very grand, but is at present +invisible, on account of the alterations going on to complete the tomb +of Napoleon. This will be the grandest tomb, probably, in the world. The +sarcophagus is to rest on a platform, to which the access is by steps of +green marble. + +[Illustration: Sarcophagus at Napoleon's Tomb, and Key] + +Here is a good library and some MSS. of the two prime ministers, Sully +and Colbert; a good picture of Napoleon and Louis Philippe; the cannon +ball which killed Marshal Turenne, and his equestrian statue in gold and +silver. + +My favorite stroll here is in the Garden of the Tuileries. I am never +weary of this place. Here are the finest flowers, the best walks, the +gayest company, the prettiest children, and the densest shade, if you +please to go into it, in Paris. Then, too, there are groups of statuary, +and fountains with lofty jet, and proud swans in the reservoirs. I +would like to have you walking in that thick forest growth; there is no +underbrush; I can see from one side to the other. After a long walk, you +come to the noble portals, guarded by lions couchant, and just beyond is +the spot where Louis XVI. was guillotined. I do not believe there is a +nobler view in Europe than now opens to the spectator. There before me +is the Obelisk of Luxor, which was brought from Egypt, and now stands in +the Place de la Concorde, its history, its removal, its present +position, all serve to delight me. In itself it is a noble object, and +my eye ever rests on it with pleasure. + +Just think, Charley, that you are at my side: turn round, and look at +the gardens we have left. There, see the long, low Tuileries, the palace +of the Bourbons, the home of Napoleon, the residence of the citizen +king, and now the Palace National. Off to the right is the Seine and its +long line of quays; here is the bridge; and just across it is the +Chamber of the Assembly, with twelve Corinthian columns, I like this +building exceedingly. To our left is a long, stately range, known as the +Rue Rivoli, in which we reside; it has an arched arcade in front; for +foot passengers, and some hundreds of columns to support and adorn it. +At this end of it are public offices. Now turn and look at our left; and +see, a street cuts through this noble row, and at its end you see the +pride of the city, the Madeleine. There it is, all white, and its +stately columns tell of Greece. Now, if you turn your back upon the +Tuileries, you will gaze upon the open space of the Champs Elysees, and +look down along through that splendid avenue, and there see the finest +thing in France--Bonaparte's triumphal arch. One word about this arch. +It is the work of the emperor, who ordered its erection in 1806, when +the foundation was laid. In 1814 it was suspended, but in 1823 it was +resumed in honor of the Duke d'Angouleme's victories in Spain. In 1830 +its original intention was adopted, and in 1836 it was completed, and +its cost was nearly eleven millions of francs. It is a vast arch, ninety +feet high and forty-five feet wide, with entablature and attic. Its +total height is one hundred and fifty-two feet, breadth one hundred and +thirty-seven feet, depth sixty-eight feet. On the fronts are colossal +groups, in which the figures are eighteen feet. All these are +historical, and tell of the great man in his fields of glory. You ascend +this wonderful work of art by two hundred and sixty steps, and get the +best view of Paris. Close by is the Hippodrome, of which some of us have +told you, I suppose, during our last visit. + +At less than a mile from this place is the Chapel of St. Ferdinand, +built on the spot where the Duke of Orleans died, by a fall from his +carriage, in 1842. It is a small building of stone, fifty feet long, and +is of Gothic style. Here are many interesting objects--the marble group +descriptive of the dying prince, and at his head an angel in +supplication; this angel was the sculpture of his sister, the Princess +Marie. The painted windows are exquisite representations of the patron +saints of the royal family. Behind the altar is the room in which the +duke died, now used as the sacristy of the chapel. Here, too, is a +picture of the death bed. I am glad that I saw this, as the rest of the +party were not able to be there. + +The great National Library is in the Rue Vivienne. The building is a +dark-looking affair, five hundred and forty feet long and one hundred +and thirty feet wide. Inside is a court three hundred feet by ninety, +and that is flanked with buildings. The library is in five sections: +first, manuscripts; second, printed books; third, engravings; fourth; +medals, &c.; fifth, marbles. Perhaps the best collection of early +printing that Europe can show is in this place. You will be surprised +when I tell you that there are here one million five hundred thousand +works. I cannot attempt to tell you the curiosities that are to be seen +here--gems, cameos, antiques, swords, armors, models, portraits, busts; +and then, as for autographs, why, a collector could not fail to break +the tenth commandment when he looked at the letters of this collection +in glass cases. The engravings alone are a study for months. + +I have to see my tailor, Mr. Woodman, who is a capital one; and then I +must go to Forr, the boot-maker, of whom let me tell you a story. The +doctor went to be measured, when we first arrived, and the man told him +it was not necessary, as he had his measure. "How so?" he inquired. +"Why, sir," replied the man, "I remember you fifteen years ago, at the +Hotel Windsor;" and taking down his book, showed him his name, number of +his room, &c. This I think a pretty considerable proof of memory, and +equal to what we are told of some of our American landlords, who are +said never to forget a face. + +These engagements discharged, and I am ready to pack up. We all feel sad +at leaving George, who has been a kind and amiable companion; but we +hope soon to see him again. + +Let me tell you that we are to have a new teacher. Dr. C. has engaged M. +Oudin, a graduate of the University of Paris, to return with us. This +gentleman is married; and we are all pleased with him and expect, of +course, to profit under his instructions. + +M. Oudin has taken us to see a very curious manufactory of fruits, +fishes, &c. They certainly are lifelike. Then, too, there is a branch +of this establishment devoted to the preparation of medical +representations of disease, and the skill exhibited is very great. Our +next letter will, I fancy, be from Old England. I feel sad at leaving +France, for I do like her capital; and then I cannot help a fear that +she has dark days not very far off. She talks of liberty at all her +corners, but she seems to have none in her conduct of the daily press. +There are too many soldiers here to please an American. At home we have +all the blessings of government, and do not see the machinery. We have +no soldiers to keep us moving along. I shall always think with pleasure +of our month in this city; and if I ever come again, I have work chalked +out for three months, at least. + +Yours affectionately, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 50. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We had a pleasant time from Paris to Calais; and here we determined to +pass a day, and look at a city which has been so celebrated both in the +history of France and England. We put up at Quillac's. The population is +about thirteen thousand. The town is strongly fortified, and has very +few external attractions. The gate built by Richelieu in 1685, and +delineated by Hogarth, still stands. You know that England held this +town from 1347 to 1558; and, as a result, you can find several specimens +of English Tudor architecture, especially the Hotel de Guise. The walks +upon the fortifications are fine, and afford commanding views of the +cliffs of the south coast of England. The place generally has some three +or four thousand English, many of whom are refugees on account of debt. +At eleven at night we went on board a French steamer for Dover; and the +_instant_ that she got outside the pier, she jumped like a mad thing. O, +Charley, that was a horrid night! We were all sick, very sick indeed. It +took us about three hours to get over, and we were thankful to land and +take refuge for three or four hours in the quiet of our bedrooms. At +eight we took the cars for London, and were at the Golden Cross, quietly +settled down in our old quarters, by twelve o'clock. I ought to tell you +that we hurried over in order to be here at the great entertainment +which Mr. George Peabody gives to his excellency Abbott Lawrence and his +lady, on the evening of the 4th of July. We were invited, and felt +anxious to be there; as, in addition to the other notable characters, +"the duke" was to be present. All that day the subject of the evening +was the great topic with Americans; and as more than nine hundred +acceptances were received to invitations issued, it was expected that +the party would be interesting, and that many, who failed to obtain +tickets, would be disappointed. The entertainment was given at Almack's, +Willis's Room, St. James's, and upon a scale of great magnificence. It +consisted of a concert at half past nine, a ball at eleven, and supper +at one. The idea of celebrating our national independence in London, +under the peculiar circumstances which London presents at this moment, +was a happy one; and though some wise men doubted the wisdom of the +measure, yet the result proved the prudence and practical good sense of +its originator; and perhaps few men possess more of this admirable +quality than Mr. Peabody. The rooms at Almack's are very spacious, so +that there was ample space for the one thousand who proved to be +present. At one end of the room were seen the portraits of the queen and +Washington, surrounded by the flags of England and the United States; +and around were placed busts of her majesty, Washington, Prince Albert, +Franklin, Webster, and other celebrated men of both countries. Each lady +was presented, on her entrance, with a fine bouquet. At half past nine +the seats for the concert were entirely filled. The _programme de +concert_ was as follows:-- + + CONDUCTOR, SIGNOR ALARY. + + PARTE PRIMA. + + GLEE, Messrs. Lee, Geuge, Hill, Smith, and Howe. + + DUO, "Al perigli." {Signor Gardoni, } + {Signor F. Lablache,} _Donizetti_. + + SOLO, Violin. Signor Sivori, _Sivori_. + + MELODIE, "Jusqu'a toi." Signor Gardoni _Schubert_. + + ARIA, "Non piu audrai." Signor Lablache, _Mozart_. + + ROMANCE, "Ah, mon fils." Miss C. Hayes, _Meyerbeer_. + + DUO, "Ah t inebria nell' {Ma'mselle Cruvelli,} + amplesso." {Signor Gardoni, } _Verdi_. + + + PARTE SECUNDA. + + TRIO, "Qual volutta." {Miss Hayes, } + {Signor Gardoni, } + {Signor Lablache,} _Verdi_. + + ARIA, "Nel dolce incanto." Mademoiselle Cruveli _De Beriot_. + + SOLO, Violin. Signor Sivori, _Sivori_. + + SERENADE, "Qual Suon." {Miss C. Hayes, } + {Signor Gardoni,} _Alary_. + + DUO, "Un Segreta." {Signor Lablache,} + {F. Lablache,} _Rossini_. + + TRIO, "Zitti, Zitti." {Miss C. Hayes, } + {Signor Gardoni, } + {Signor Lablache,} _Rossini_. + + PIANO FORTE, Signor Alary. + +The glees and madrigals were by the first-named artists; and the pieces +were, "Spring's Delight," "Come, let us join the Roundelay," "Foresters +sound the cheerful Horn," and "The Winds whistle cold." + +The band for the ball was Coote & Tinney's. The concert was very fine. I +was most pleased with Miss Hayes,--and next with Lablache, whose voice +is the finest I ever heard. The duke came just at the close of the +concert, as the seats were being removed for the dancing. Mr. Peabody +met him in the reception-room, and led him to the upper end of the +ball-room, where he was cordially greeted by Mr. and Mrs. Lawrence. The +band struck up, "See, the conquering hero comes," and I really felt that +such a reception to such a man, and under such circumstances, was +something for an American boy to see; and, if I live thirty or forty +years, it will be something to tell about. There were but few +comparatively who danced. The company were in groups, in the different +rooms, taking refreshments. At one, supper was announced on the ground +floor of the house; and here the press was felt to be greater than up +stairs. The tables were most gorgeously laid out with every delicacy +that unlimited outlay of expense could secure. Perhaps you would like to +know some of the company who were present, belonging to England, and who +certainly were present for the first time to celebrate the anniversary +of American independence. There were the Duke of Wellington, Marquises +of Ely and Clanricarde, Lord Glenelg, Lord Charles Manners, Lord Charles +Russell, Lord Mayor of London and Lady Mayoress, Viscount Canning, Lord +and Lady Dormer, Lord Hill, Lord Stuart, Baron and Lady Alderson, the +Chancellor of the Exchequer, and Lady Mary Wood; Mr. Justice and Lady +Coleridge, the Governor of the Bank of England, Joseph Hume, M.P., and +family, Lady Morgan, Miss Burdett Coutts, Admiral Watkins, the Countess +of Eglinton, Countess Powlett, Lady Talbot Mala hide, and a very long +_et cetera_. Mr. Peabody could not have served his country better than +by affording an opportunity for the great and distinguished of England +to meet a large party of his countrymen on an occasion dear to +Americans, and especially dear when they are far away from their +country, and feel that, under the broad flag of the stars and stripes +they are every where as safe as if they were in New York or Boston. It +was very clear that hostile feeling had ceased, and that the great +Anglo-Saxon family can now meet any where and display the brotherhood +which they ought ever to feel. Such a meeting could not have taken place +twenty years ago; and perhaps this beautiful demonstration would never +have been afforded, if the thought had not presented itself to our host, +who had the means to carry out the idea with a nobleness that did honor +to himself and his country. We left the rooms on a bright, starlight +morning, just as day was opening her eye, and were soon comfortably +housed at our pleasant home. I write in haste, for we have much to do +before we leave London. + +Yours affectionately, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 51. + + +LONDON. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We have had one of the most agreeable days that I have spent in England. +We received a kind invitation from his excellency Baron Vanderweyer, the +Belgian minister, to attend a party given by his lady to the young +nobility. The invitations were for five o'clock. We found the finest +collection of children and young people, from about four years old up to +sixteen, that I ever saw gathered together. I should think there were +two hundred and fifty. More beautiful children cannot probably be found; +and they were dressed in fine taste, and some very richly. One little +fellow, about six years old, was, I think, the noblest-looking boy my +eyes ever rested upon. Dr. C. inquired of two or three persons whom he +knew, who the lad was; and just then an elegant and fashionable-looking +lady expressed how much she felt flattered by the kind things said of +the little fellow, and told him that it was her son, the eldest son of +the Marquis of O----d, and then called him out of the dance, and +introduced the little Lord Ossory to him. Among the illustrious +juveniles was the future Duke of Wellington, and grandson of the Iron +Duke. He is now about four or five years old. I think the sight was one +of the prettiest I ever had the pleasure to witness. A few of the +parents and older friends of the children were present; and in the +company was Mr. Bates, whose kindness to us has been very great. + +One evening this week Dr. Choules preached at Craven Chapel, near Regent +Street, where he had been requested to speak about America, and he took +up Education--the voluntary principle--and Slavery. On the last topic he +gave some truths that were probably very unpalatable. He stated that the +good people here knew next to nothing of the subject; that its treatment +amongst us could not be suffered by strangers; and that all interference +with it by this nation was as impolitic, and in as bad taste, as it +would be for an American to visit England and commence a crusade against +the expenditures of the royal household, as a crying sin, while there +was misery among the masses in many parts of the kingdom. He spoke of +the extreme prejudice which he had met upon the subject, and the +rudeness's into which he had found men fall, who seemed to have +forgotten every courtesy of life. He gave them many facts, which, though +perfectly correct, yet he said he supposed would be interpreted as a +special plea on behalf of slavery--although nothing could be more +untrue. The prejudice existing here is amusing. They seem to take it for +granted that every American raises cotton, sugar, and tobacco, and, +therefore, is a slaveholder. However, I find most persons of candor +ready to acknowledge that it is questionable whether any good can +possibly result from sending English agents to agitate the slavery +question in the United States. + +There are a great many things which we have seen in London that are less +worthy of note than those we have written you about, and yet in +themselves are very useful and interesting; and we hope the remembrance +of them will be of service to us hereafter. I have been much struck with +the prevalence of the same names in the streets as those which are so +familiar to me on our signs and boards. We have most clearly a common +origin, and there are no two nations in the world between whom there is +of necessity so much sympathy on all great questions. + +We have visited the exhibition several times since our return, with +fresh pleasure on every occasion. In point of show and splendor, we are +doing little in competition with the English, French and Belgian +exhibitors; but we have a wonderful deal here that proves Jonathan to be +a smart chap at invention, and no slouch at labor-saving operations. We +cannot afford to spend the labor of freemen, who own their houses and +farms and gardens, upon single pieces of furniture that would take six +months to complete. Our time is too valuable for this. The pauper labor +of Europe will, I hope, long continue to be cheaper, than the toil of +American mechanics. I do not want to see a man working for thirty cents +a day. The people of England must laugh in their sleeves when they see +every steamer bringing out our specie from America, and when they see us +sacrificing our true interests to aid the destructive policy of free +trade. I have never thought so much about the tariff as since I have +been here, and I am now convinced that we ought to give suitable +encouragement to all kinds of manufactures in our country, and so afford +a regular market for the products of the agriculturist. The English +agents that flood our country are placing the land under a constant +drain; and our specie must go abroad, instead of circulating at home. It +is only in times of great scarcity that England will want much of our +wheat or corn; and the English very freely avow that they hope to be +able, ere long, to get their cotton from the East. It seems to me that +our Southern States will need their New England constant market, and +that our true policy is to take care of ourselves. Certainly there is a +great variety of opinion here about free trade, and I hear gentlemen +debate strongly against it. The reciprocity of England is a queer thing. +All this yarn, Charley, grows naturally out of my starting-point about +the exhibition. + +We go to-night to Bristol, to visit our kind friends once more; thence +we run into South Wales, and afterwards set our faces homeward. + +Yours, &c., + +WELD. + + + + +Letter 52. + + +BRISTOL + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We have been here with the doctor's friends for several days, and had a +most delightful time. Nothing can be more kind than their attentions to +us; and the young men--I wish you knew them--have been constantly doing +every thing in their power to make our visit here agreeable. + +We were glad to find Mr. W---- recovering from his accident; and as the +family were at Western Super Mare, a watering-place about seven miles +off, for his health, we went and passed a couple of days with them. This +place is on the banks of the Bristol Channel; the air is thought to be +the finest on the western coast of England, and is, we thought, very +much like our Newport air. When the tide is in the scenery is pretty, +and the Welsh hills; at sunset are beautiful. Off in the Bristol Channel +are two islands, called the Flat and Steep Holmes. + +The houses here are neat, and the best are lodging-houses. Some of the +rows are very pretty, and are sufficiently cosy to accommodate small +families. + +The true way to enjoy the seaside is to have your own snug quarters. +Here the people are wise enough to build close to the sea, and rows of +houses are found all round the bay. + +We had a charming ride to a lofty hill, about two miles off, and the +prospect was very fine. + +Here, as on the continent, we found large numbers of donkeys, with +drivers, and ladies use them in their little excursions; and many of +them are attached to Bath chairs, a small gig, and a very comfortable +conveyance, too, as we proved. The vehicle is made for one person. + +I cannot say much for the bathing, which is greatly admired here, but +was far too muddy for our taste, after an acquaintance with the noble +beach at home. + +The museum of the Baptist College in Bristol is very fine, and the +library is large and one of great value. The collection of Bibles is the +best in the kingdom, and here is the only copy of Tindal's New +Testament. The miniature of Oliver Cromwell, by Cooper, is valuable, and +has been often engraved. + +We have several times attended worship at a very beautiful Gothic chapel +at Bristol, called Highbury Chapel. It is a perfect gem, built in the +Gothic style of the fifteenth century. The edifice is of stone, the +roof and wood-work of oak, the pulpit freestone, and over it is a fine +painted window. It is one of the prettiest churches we have seen in +England; and what gives great interest to the building is the fact that +it stands upon the spot where five martyrs were burnt, in the days of +Popery, when Queen Mary was on the throne. This burning of Protestants +only happens when Catholics have power; they do not advocate the measure +in America, although their boast is that their system knows no change. +Inquisitions and martyrs' fires are the adult growth of Popery. If I +wanted to know how liberal institutions worked, I would look at them +where they were established and flourished without hinderance; and if I +wanted to know what Popery is, I would go and look at it in its proper +territories--Spain, Italy, and Austria. There Popery is intolerant. In +France the wings of Romanism are clipped; and if the patronage of the +state were withdrawn, as very likely it may before long, the crumbling +edifice would fall. + +The Rev. Mr. Thomas, the pastor of Highbury Chapel, is a man of superior +intellect, and we heard a very fine sermon from him. + +I never was in a place where there are so many local charities as I find +at Bristol. Every ailment of man seems here to be provided with its +needed cure; and as for orphan asylums and refuges for the aged, blind, +strangers, &c., they are every where to be found. The Infirmary is a +noble institution, and always has two hundred patients in the wards; two +thousand were received last year, and eight thousand out-door cases +received treatment. A refuge for the houseless poor, opened in winter at +eight o'clock, and supported by subscription, has been very useful. I +think there are at least thirty different almshouses for the aged and +indigent of both sexes; and some of these places are as neat as any +thing can be, as to their accommodation. + +We like Bristol--its fine old houses, its streets, that tell so plainly +of other days, its beautiful environs, and its generous citizens. I wish +you could see the prospect from the drawing-room window at a house where +we have often visited, and always with pleasure. The house stands on a +very high hill; the drawing-room has a large bay window, and outside a +balcony. You look down into a charming garden, with fine trees and +fountains,--the ground being on a great declivity, I should think a +slope of fifty degrees,--and then from the balcony you have the entire +city laid out before you, down, down in the valley; while before you, +and on either hand, stretch away the hills which adorn this noble city. +The towers and steeples of the glorious old churches make the prospect, +of a fine, clear summer evening, one never to be forgotten. Go where I +may, that room, and the kind faces of those who meet in it will often +rise in memory. + +I have never had my feelings so enlisted by strangers as at Bristol; and +we all feel quite at home here. + +We are to go off to-morrow on an excursion to Monmouthshire, and see +Chepstow, Tintern Abbey, and Ragland Castle, and expect that this last +of our wanderings will be very gratifying. + +I have not told you how much we have enjoyed the fruit in England and on +the continent. Cherries and strawberries have been daily on our tables, +and of the best kinds. I do not think we ever enjoyed a fruit season so +much as this summer. In this humid climate the strawberry grows to an +immense size; and the gooseberry, which is here in high favor, is a far +finer fruit than with us. + +Yours affectionately, + +JAMES. + + + + +Letter 53. + + +BRISTOL. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Let me tell you of a charming trip which we have had this week to +Chepstow Castle and its neighborhood. We have told you all about the +beautiful scenery of Clifton, and the Hot Wells at this place, and the +fine old rooks. Well, now we took passage in a little steamer, and went +down the Avon between these lofty rocks, and had a new and enlarged view +of this wondrous formation. The boat was well filled with tourists, as +this is a fashionable trip. The Avon for four miles is quite Rhenish in +its aspect; and one or two old castled towers on its crags afford a sort +of reminiscence of what we lately saw on the river of rivers. + +We soon got out of the Avon into King Road, and there met the tide +setting strongly from the Severn--a large river, which divides +Monmouthshire from Gloucestershire. We then stretched across the +estuary, and were in the Wye--one of the most romantic rivers in the +country, the scenery of which will occupy much of this letter. + +After going up the river a little way, we saw a town upon the left bank +and a noble castle. This is Chepstow. It is finely ensconced in a +hollow. The town is irregular, and depends for its prosperity on its +commerce. The castle is really a noble ruin and crowns a high bluff +which rises from the river. I do not know how any one can ask for a +lovelier landscape than is opened to the view off the bridge which spans +the river. + +The castle was built by a relation of William the Conqueror. Its style +is Norman, with more modern additions. The tide rises here to an +elevation of from fifty to sixty feet. This is owing to rooks which +stretch into the Severn near the mouth of the Wye, and, by hindering the +tide, turn it into this small river. + +On landing, we engaged a carriage and pair of horses for the excursion, +and were soon off. We stopped for lunch at St. Arvan's, a village one +mile off, and a beautiful place it is--a perfect gem of a country +street. But the glorious scenery of the region calls off attention from +the modest hamlet. How I should like, as in my boyish days, to make +head-quarters here for a week, and then strike out for daily +explorations. + +We passed by the fine mansion at Piercefield, and devoted our time to +the glorious points of natural scenery on the banks of this most +charming stream--for Americans can hardly call it a river. We walked now +about two miles through an oak wood, in which is a sprinkling of ash and +elm, till we came to the very edge of a cliff called the "Lover's Leap." +It overhangs an awful abyss, the depth of which is softened down by the +woods which cover the neighboring rooks. A little off from this we came +to the famous Wynd Cliff. Its summit is fringed with wood, and covers +its declivities down to the river. To describe the scenery, my dear boy, +from this spot, is quite beyond my ability. I wish that Sir Walter Scott +had attempted it, and made this region the scene of one of his +beautiful creations. From this spot you see all the course of the Wye, +with its numerous sinuosities--in one place cutting out a few acres into +a horse-shoe peninsula. As the eye follows down the river, you gaze on +perpendicular, rocky cliffs, and can hardly persuade yourself that you +do not look at the immense fortifications of a town. But that peaceful +little peninsula at my feet; it is called Llanicut. Such a farm! such +elms! all forming a landscape unrivalled. But look beyond the Wye, and, +just away there, is the noble Severn. Ay, that is a river. There it +rolls and foams down through the rich county of Gloucestershire, and +empties into the Bristol Channel. Then away, beyond to the right are the +bold, swelling hills of Somersetshire. I cannot but wish that Claude had +seen the Wye and Severn; the noblest of his pictures would have been +illustrative of this region. + +When we had sufficiently delighted ourselves with the far-spread scene, +we descended by a winding path through the woods and down the almost +perpendicular rock. The road was a very zigzag. We came down three +hundred and sixty steps, and, passing a rustic bridge, entered a moss +cottage, the small windows of painted glass, the table the base of a +mighty oak, sawn off and polished. The walls are lined with moss. Here +we got refreshments, and talked of those who had been here with us on +former visits--some in America, others farther off; and yet perhaps +not; for we know not how, or where, some of our best friends exist; but +we know and feel that they do greatly live. + +In approaching Tintern, we passed the iron works, which at night throw a +solemn glow over the entire village. The cottages around are very humble +residences. The inn is a small but cosy affair, and is not destitute of +much real comfort. There is the abbey at the water side, and opposite +the rocky hill bank and hanging wood. The access to the abbey is poor, +but this is quite forgotten as you enter this glorious sanctuary of +other days. There are few ancient edifices in Great Britain, now in +ruins, which attract so much attention from the curious traveller as +Tintern Abbey, on the Wye. + +The beauty of the river is proverbial, yet has never been adequately +described; but the best idea of its diversified charms may be gathered +from "Gilpin's Picturesque Scenery and Observations upon the Wye." + +Tintern was a Cistercian abbey, and was founded in 1131, by Walter de +Clare, and dedicated to St. Mary on its completion in 1287. The dress of +the Cistercians was a white cassock, with a narrow scapulary, and over +that a black gown, when they went abroad, but a white one when they went +to church. They were called white monks, from the color of their habit. + +The dimensions of this church are as follows: length, two hundred and +twenty-eight feet, and the transept one hundred and fifty feet long; +breadth of the aisles, each eighteen feet. There are in the sides ten +arches; between each column fifteen feet, which is the span of the +arches. + +The interior of this monastery presents the best specimen of Gothic +architecture in England. The east window is a most magnificent affair, +sixty-four feet high, and calls forth universal admiration. The very +insignificant doorway was, no question, intended by the architect to +form a strong contrast with the elevation of the roof. The abbey is +cruciform; its ruins are perfect as to the grand outline; and I am sure +we should like to pass the entire day within this venerable fane. The +walls of the tower are seventy-two feet high, and covered with ivy, +moss, and lichens, but show no indications of decay. + +Very few Americans visit this region; but I think that they can see +nothing in England at all comparable to this ruin. + +Among the relics that are to be seen here is the effigy of a knight in +chain mail, the remains of a virgin and child, and the head of a shaven +friar. Here, too, are several monkish tombstones. + +We were obliged to resume our places in the carriage, and ride some +twelve miles, in order to visit the finest baronial ruins in the +kingdom. We reached the quiet little village of Ragland, and, putting +up our horses, gave orders for dinner, and then repaired to the castle, +which we found near by, crowning a slight eminence with its stately +towers. We approached through a grove of truly venerable oaks and elms, +and all at once we were at the warder's gate; and entering into the +terrace, formerly the eastern court, a most splendid vision burst upon +our sight. Here are three pentagonal towers, with machicolated +battlements, and showing all the marks of war. This is the most perfect +part of the ruin, and seems likely to stand for ages. The ivy clusters +over the towers most gracefully. Off to the left, insulated by a moat, +stands the remains of a tower, once the citadel. We advance through the +Gothic portal into the second court, and here are shafts and arches, and +grooves through which the portcullis used to present itself to the +besiegers. Next is the paved court, where once were the men at arms with +iron tread; now a velvet lawn is seen, and many a vigorous tree is +spreading its roots. Here we get a fine view of the majestic window of +the hall of state. Through an arch is the way to the kitchen. The +fireplace has a span of thirteen feet, and is made of two stones. Then +we come to the baron's hall, of noble dimensions. On the walls are the +stone sculptured arms of the Marquis of Worcester. The chapel was a +narrow room; and, nearly concealed by ivy, are two effigies. The +south-west tower contained the apartments occupied by Charles I. after +the battle of Naseby, in 1645. The grand terrace is in tolerable order, +and you proceed to it by a bridge. We ascended the towers and gazed on +majesty in ruins. We saw nothing on the continent finer than Ragland +Castle. The prospect from the great tower is the finest that can be +imagined, and I almost fear to tell you its extent. + +You may imagine that we felt unusually interested at this place, from +the fact that here the Marquis of Worcester invented the steam engine. + +The castle was devastated by the parliamentary troops under Fairfax, +having surrendered in 1646. The defence was gallant, but unavailing. + +The warder of the castle is a very gentlemanly man. He took us into his +apartments in one of the towers, and we found that he was a very +respectable amateur in painting. Some of his oil paintings were very +creditable. An infant girl, of great beauty, his daughter, answered to +the name of Blanche Castle May, and was the first-born child under that +roof since its desolation. + +Here, as well as at Tintern Abbey, I obtained ivy roots for Mr. Hall, +and hope to see them flourishing on the walls of his beautiful stone +house in Rhode Island. + +We retired slowly from this romantic ruin, and at the hotel found an +excellent dinner. One dish was fit for a king--sewen, young salmon, or a +species of salmon, for there is much dispute among naturalists as to the +identity of these fish. Any how, they are fine beyond any fish. They +were about two and a quarter pounds each, and are so delicate that they +do not well bear transportation. + +We returned to Chepstow that evening, having a fine ride through a new +piece of scenery, and were quite ready for a sound night's rest. In the +morning we looked at the castle in Chepstow, which is remarkably fine, +and is of extreme antiquity; some of the arches of the castle chapel +indicating clearly a Saxon origin. One of the priestly legends is that +this chapel was built by Longinus, a Jew, and father of the soldier who +pierced the side of Christ. This was the belief of the ancient +population of this charming region. + +All around this town Roman coins are frequently turned up; and I +obtained from a gentleman a very well-preserved Caesar silver coin, dug +up a day or two before. + +This castle was for more than twenty years the prison home of Henry +Marten, one of the regicides. He is buried in the parish church, and in +the north transept is the following acrostical epitaph which he composed +for his monument:-- + + Here, September 9, 1680, + + was buried + + A TRUE-BORN ENGLISHMAN, + + Who in Berkshire was well known + To love his country's freedom 'bove his own; + But being immured full twenty year, + Had time to write, as doth appear. + + HIS EPITAPH. + + Here or elsewhere (all's one to you, to me) + Earth, air, or water gripes my ghostly dust + None know how soon to be by fire set free; + Reader, if you an old-tried rule will trust, + you will gladly do and suffer what you must. + + My time was spent in serving you, and you, + And death's my pay, it seems, and welcome, too; + Revenge destroying but itself, while I + To birds of prey leave my old cage, and fly; + Examples preach t' the eye; care then, (mine says,) + Not how you end, but how you spend your days. + +Colonel Henry Marten was one of the noble assertors of English liberty +who dared to oppose a weak, but cruel and capricious tyrant. If ever a +monarch was a tyrant and despot, it was the first Charles. No American +citizen who thinks that Patrick Henry, Samuel Adams, John Hancock, +Thomas Jefferson, John Adams, and George Washington were praiseworthy +for the resistance which they offered to the aggressions of George III., +can for one moment fail to reverence Eliot, Hampden, Marten, Whalley, +Ludlow, Pym, and Cromwell for their noble opposition to Charles and his +tormentor general, that incarnation of sanctimonious cruelty, Archbishop +Laud. It is one of the signs that a "good time is coming" that public +opinion in England, as well as in America, is fast setting in favor of +Cromwell and his noble coadjutors. They opposed measures rather than +men; and what proves that they were right in expelling the Stuarts from +power is the fact that when, by infatuation, "the fated race" was +restored, and again played over former pranks, the people had to oust +the family in 1688, and thus by another national verdict confirm the +wisdom and patriotism of the men who had formerly dared to teach a +tyrant the rights of freemen. Marten was a noble spirit, but his morals +were not as correct as those of his political associates. + +The game now played by the advocates of high church and state notions in +England and America is to represent the republican party as illiterate +and narrow minded. A viler falsehood was never sworn to at the Old +Bailey. The leading men of the party who opposed the royal tyrant were +scholars, and ripe ones. If any man doubts it, let him read their +speeches, peruse their lives, and study their writings. Prynne did not +lose his acquirements nor his brains when Charles and Laud cropped his +ears, and, loving the sport, came back for a second harvest, and +"grubbed out the stumps" remaining from the first operation. Read his +folios, quartoes, and octavoes, and from one of these men estimate the +others. If you want to know the real character of Cromwell and his +party, as to their knowledge and love of good letters, look at the +patronage which the government gave to learning. Owen was chancellor of +Oxford, Milton and Thurlow were secretaries, and their friends were +called into public life. Were these men barbarians and enemies to +learning? The men who were educated at Oxford and Cambridge at this +period were the ornaments of learning and religion for the next forty +years. The day has gone by forever when Cromwell's name can be used as +synonymous with fraud, ignorance, and hypocrisy. Kings and prelates may +hate him, but a liberty-loving world will enshrine his character in the +sanctuary of grateful hearts and faithful memories. + +After crossing the Severn at the old Passage, or Aust, where it is two +miles wide, we took carriage to Bristol. This parish of Aust gave a +church living to the immortal Wickliffe, who received the appointment +from Edward III. + +The drive to the city was a rich enjoyment. Every acre is in the highest +cultivation, and the charming villas of the merchant princes of Bristol +make the eleven miles an entire garden scene. + +Four miles from the city we came to Henbury, regarded by the citizens as +their finest suburban spot. It is indeed beautiful. There are here about +a dozen exquisite cottages, built in 1811, by Mr. Harford, who lives in +Blaize Castle. The founder's object was purely benevolent--to provide a +comfortable asylum for aged females, who had income enough to support +them, if only relieved from house rent. The forms of these cottages are +all different, but they were the earliest specimens in our times of the +adoption of the old Elizabethan style. They are perfect _bijoux_, and +the taste displayed in the shrubberies is very great. + +Blaize Castle is a fine building, and surrounded by noble woods. The +castle is a circle, flanked With three round towers. + +I ought not to omit that we had on this trip the pleasure of being +accompanied by a gentleman from Bristol, whose taste and perfect +knowledge of the ground afforded us much gratification. I allude, to Mr. +Dix, author of "Pen and Ink Sketches," which formerly appeared in the +Boston Atlas. Mr. Dix was with us at Windsor Castle, and when he heard +from Weld French or George Vanderbilt that Robinson's birthday would +occur shortly, he noted it, and sent James the following pretty lines, +which reached him May 15th, in Paris. I think you will be pleased with +them. + + +TO JAMES A. ROBINSON. + + When wandering neath old Windsor's towers + We laughed away the sunny hours, + You asked me for a simple rhyme; + So now accept this birthday chime. + No poet I--the "gift divine" + Ne'er was, and never will be, mine; + But take these couplets, which impart + The anxious wishes of my heart, + In place of more aspiring lay, + To greet you on your natal day. + + Boy of that country of the brave, + Beyond the Atlantic's western wave, + I, dweller in the motherland, + A welcome give with heart and hand; + And on your birthday breathe a prayer + That you may every blessing share; + That your world journey may be blest + With all that may prepare you best + For the approaching eve of age-- + The end of mortal pilgrimage. + + Upon your brow of youthful bloom + I would not cast a shade of gloom; + Yet did I say that life will ever + Flow onward like a placid river, + With only sunshine on its breast, + That ne'er 'twill be by storms distressed, + I should but flatter to deceive, + And but a web of falsehood weave. + Yet, checkered though life's path may seem, + Life's pleasures are not _all_ a dream. + + What shall I wish you? I would fain + That earthly greatness you may gain; + But if that guerdon is not sent, + Be with some humble lot content; + And let this truth be understood-- + Few can be great, _all may_ be good. + Power, pomp, ambition, envy, pride, + Wrecked barks adown life's stream may glide, + Ruined by some fierce passion throe, + E'er, reckless, o'er Time's brink they go; + But if fair virtue grasps the helm, + Nor storm nor wave can overwhelm. + + That many happy years be yours: + Seek truth which every good insures; + Press on, though clouds may intervene + And for a moment veil the scene. + Think of the great ones of your land, + And, like them, strive with heart and hand + To leave a name, when you depart, + Which shall be dear to many a heart. + Determine in life's early morn + All good to prize, all ill to scorn, + And aim to live and die as one + Worthy the land of Washington! + +Yours affectionately, + +J.O.C. + + + + +Letter 54. + + +LIVERPOOL. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +Well, this looks like the back track; and here we are at the Adelphi, +ready to take our passage in the noble Atlantic, which is as good as new +again, and will sail on the twenty-third. We left Bristol with much +regret, for we there have formed acquaintances which we shall often +remember with affection and gratitude; and I wish we could meet them in +America, and have an opportunity to reciprocate some of the many +kindnesses we met with at their hands. We took the railroad for +Cheltenham, and passed through some charming country before we reached +the old city of Gloucester. On our left were the flint towers of +Berkeley Castle, where the second Edward was so savagely murdered by his +wife's command. + +Cheltenham is about forty miles from the city of Bristol, and we found +it all that Dr. C. had described it--a very nice modern town indeed. It +is like our Saratoga, but much more beautiful. The population is about +thirty thousand, and the strangers who resort there in the season are +probably five thousand more. The waters are in high repute, and are +regarded as strongly cathartic. The buildings are very fine, and the +entire air of the place is unlike any thing we have seen in England. +Other places seem old. This is new, and looks fresh and American in that +respect, but vastly more elegant and permanent than our towns usually +are. We had very kind attentions here from the Rev. Mr. Gilby, the +rector of the parish church, and who strongly urged us to stay over the +day; but we resumed the cars, got to Birmingham at ten o'clock, and went +to our old quarters at the Hen and Chickens. The next day we devoted to +the survey of this vast toy shop. Our greatest gratification was at the +royal _papier mache_ and japan works of Jennens & Bettridge. To this +firm we had introductions, and we went through every department of the +establishment. When we came to the show-rooms we were all tempted by the +beauty of the finished wares, and made several purchases. Here, too, are +other manufactories for pins and pens; but I must pass them by. We +called on the Rev. John Angell James, who has lived here so long, and +made a world-wide reputation. He looks very hearty and vigorous, and +shows no signs of age. He has lived in his house forty-five years. We +obtained his autograph. We also called on Rev. Mr. Swan, an old friend +of the doctor in early days, and had a pleasant chat. Mr. Swan was once +a professor in the college at Serampore, in India. He is full of life +and animation; and it seems to me that people here are more vivacious +and sprightly than with us--old folks and middle-aged ones certainly +are. We took dinner with Mr. Vanwart, brother-in-law to Washington +Irving, and shall not soon forget the elegant hospitality of his +mansion. He resides about two miles from the town; and his lawn gave us +a fine view of the English thrush and blackbird, of which birds there +were plenty on the grass. It was so cold that we had to have fires, +although the 19th of July. Mr. Vanwart was one of the saved, when the +Atlantic was lost in the Sound, November 26, 1846; and he made the +kindest inquiries after you and the family, and said that when he next +visited America he should find you out. That evening we reached +Liverpool, and had a quiet Sabbath, but a very stormy one. It rained +harder than any day since we have been abroad. We attended church in the +morning, and heard a very eloquent sermon from Mr. Birrel, and Dr. C. +preached for him at night. The Europa arrived on this day, and we met +friends from Boston--among others the Rev. Dr. Peck. On Monday we went +to Chester, the finest old city in England, with a population of +twenty-four thousand. It claims an antiquity equal to any city in the +world; for they say it was founded by the grandson of Japhet, two +hundred and forty years after the flood! Any how, it was great in Roman +days--great in the days of Alfred. No town in the country has a more +thorough history; and we have two very interesting octavoes filled with +it, and richly illustrated with antique engravings. It is a walled city, +and has undergone many sieges and blockades. The castle has great +celebrity, and is of Norman origin. Its walls are one mile and three +fourths in length, and there are four great gates. The bridge over the +Dee has seven arches, and is as old as the Norman conquest. The +cathedral was built in the days of Henry VII. and Henry VIII. It is +composed of red stone, and has a fine front. The chapter-house in the +cloisters is universally admired by antiquarians. We went into one very +old church, which was undergoing restoration. The town, like Berne, has +rows in front of the houses, supported by pillars so that, in shopping, +you walk under covered galleries. + +We returned to Liverpool, and dined with a gentleman who has been very +polite to us--Mr. Thomas Davies, a celebrated maker of gold watches. +From him I obtained one, preferring an English to a Swiss timepiece. +Here we saw the cultivation of plants in the house in greater perfection +than I recollect elsewhere. + +To-morrow we are to take our departure; and, though very glad to return +home, yet I feel sorry at leaving a country where there is so much that +is excellent and noble and beautiful. I have learnt, certainly, that +England and America have too much in common to justify the indulgence +of hatred and prejudice; and I find the tone of feeling here, among wise +and-good people, very kind towards America. I have rarely heard a +reflection upon our country, excepting upon our slavery. That they _must +talk_ about; and they are a little like the man who, having just got rid +of the irritable affection supposed to trouble the North Britons, could +not for his life help speaking of sulphur. An Englishman is sure to tell +you that he is free from this sin--yes, washed, but scarcely dry. + +Our hotel is filling up with Americans, and, we expect to meet many +friends on board the Atlantic. I am much pleased with the appearance of +Captain West; he looks every inch an admiral. And now, my dear fellow, I +shall see you, perhaps, before you read my letter; but I have kept my +promise to tell you what we saw and did. Of course many things will +occur to our memories when we get home, and will furnish matter for +chitchat which I hope soon to have with you, as in days of old. Well, +you are now at the business of life, and I am yet a little longer to +spend my time in preparation for it. I wonder how we shall come out, +Charley? But time will tell, and let us do our best. + +Yours affectionately, + +WELD. + +P.S. I must not forget to tell you that, while at Bristol, the doctor +and I ran up to Windsor to see the royal agricultural exhibition, held +this year in the Home Park. James stopped with our friends, and we were +anxious to see the great show of England in her farming interest. The +display was very great, and the cattle were wonderfully fine in all the +departments--Durham, Hereford, Devons, and Channel Island. The last are +very nice animals for a paddock, and give good milk. The horses were +good; and I longed to bring home one or two that I saw, and felt +strongly tempted. But the sheep and swine were the most remarkable +things there. Really, we know little about sheep. They are monstrous, +and yet very symmetrical and beautiful; whilst there are pigs, strange +as you may think it, that have established high claims to beauty and +perfection. I greatly preferred the Sussex breed to any other. Never was +a town so crowded as this same Windsor. Thousands upon thousands were +flocking into it; and how and where they fed I cannot divine. Money +seemed useless, and waiters hardly looked at half crowns for retaining +fees. + + + + +Letter 55. + + +NEW YORK, August 3,1851. + +DEAR CHARLEY:-- + +We are, through the goodness of Providence, safely returned. We had a +good voyage, in a capital ship, and under the charge of as good a +captain as ever sailed the ocean. Our passengers were about one hundred +and thirty in number, and very agreeable--some few were our old +voyagers in the Arctic. With an exception or two, our way was as +pleasant as it could have been; and there were some cheerful spirits +that knew how to create sunshine at all hours. I cannot tell what +travellers can desire in a steamer which they will not find in the +Collins line. It seems to us that we have had the full worth of the +money paid for passage. How different it is to come to New York in ten +days, instead of being on the ocean for sixty-four days, as I have in a +sailing packet! Well, this saving of time and feelings is worth the +difference of the passage price. I am at a loss to understand how +Americans who have to cross the ocean should think of supporting the +English steamers in preference to our own superior ships. The influence +of every English agent, of course, goes out in behalf of the old line; +and all sorts of stories are told about winter passages, the importance +of boats especially built for strength, and the advantages of +experience. Now, the history of the American line is a perfect +refutation of all this twaddle. The truth is, that all voyaging is +connected with exposedness to some danger; and up to this moment the +Americans have had, in all their ocean steam voyages, the full measure +of success. They have lost no boat, they have sacrificed no lives, and +they present a fleet of steamships the like of which the world cannot +equal. Whenever an American citizen takes his passage in a foreign +steamer, and an American one is at hand, he tacitly confesses the +superiority of other lands, in ocean navigation, to his own country, and +he contributes his full share to depress American enterprise, and aids +so far as he can to insure its failure. The eyes of the English nation +are upon our ships; and if we desire the spread of our national fame, we +should, every man of us, labor to sustain our own steamers and +propellers. And the government of our country should strenuously guard +the interests of this available arm of national defence; and the country +at large, would certainly sustain Congress in liberal support of this +truly American enterprise. + +Perhaps, Charley, you are ready to say to us, "Well, what do you think, +after all you have been seeing in other lands?". I reply: We think that +we return home with all our hearts more warmly attached to our beloved +land than when we left her shores. We have seen lands, as fair, and +fields as fertile, as our own. We have seen monarchies and republics; +but nowhere have we seen man as erect and self-respecting as at home. +Here we have equal laws, civil and religious liberty, no bishop to +intimidate a day laborer who prefers to pass by his cathedral gates and +worship his Maker in a humbler temple. Here our streets are not labelled +with "_Liberte, Egalite, Fraternite_," but the things signified are +_known_ and _felt_ by every man that traverses these avenues of +business. Here we have not thousands of armed men in this great city to +preserve liberty; but every man enjoys it, and sees nothing of the +government, which, though unseen, is all-powerful in the affections of +the country. + +We come home grateful that we have such a country; and though we love +and admire much, very much, in England, yet we rejoice that we can call +the United States our land. We hope we are better prepared than before +we started to do her service. I am quite satisfied, Charley, that God +has not done for any other people what he has for us. We know nothing of +the restless anxiety which depresses men in England as to the means of +procuring the necessaries of life. We have our chief anxieties called +out in reference to the obtaining the _luxuries_ and _embellishments_ of +life; the _necessaries_ are almost certain to every man who has health +and character. But in England, toil is poorly requited; and a father +and husband may, after unremitting labor, have to find his refuge, and +his only one, in that petition of the Lord's Prayer, which you and I +never employed _in pure faith_, "Give me this day my daily bread." We +_say so_; but _we know whence it is coming to us. He_ knows not; and +what he knows not, he asks God after. + +A thoughtful and humane American cannot travel in Europe without having +his sympathies daily called out in behalf of the sufferings of man. I am +no apologist for slavery; I deeply lament its existence; but I believe +that there is as much suffering in coal pits and manufacturing districts +of England as in our southern slave states. In regard to England, I feel +encouraged. In an absence of fifteen years I see marked improvement. Man +is more respected, as man, than he once was; the masses are coming up; +and the wealthy and the noble are more considerate. It is a great folly +and a wickedness to think that the nobility of England are weak, +vicious, unfeeling, proud, and self-indulgent. Some of the noblest +characters of England are to be found in the peerage--men who "fear God +and work righteousness." Their homes are often centres of diffusive +blessedness; and were the nobility of England what too many here suppose +them, the state could not last a twelvemonth. The queen is popular, and +is clearly a woman of great tact. She would do at a crisis. Prince +Albert is everything to her. He is a profoundly wise and prudent man, +highly educated, and has very superior powers of mind. He is continually +making speeches, but they are all marked by _adaptation_. I have never +heard one disrespectful word uttered in England in regard to him. His +labors for the exhibition, have been remarkable, and but for the prince +the palace never would have been reared. England is happy indeed in +having such a man to counsel and support the sovereign. + +Europe looks as though a storm were once more about to gather over her +old battle fields. France is not in her true position. She would like to +see her armies employed; and I shall not be surprised to hear of his +holiness clearing out from Rome and seeking protection from Austria. If +that happens, France will sustain liberal views in the Eternal City, and +the contest will be severe. + +Popery has lost its hold upon the continent, and is seeking to regain +its influence in England, and plant it in America. The people of England +are Protestant to the heart's core. The folly of a few scholastics at +Oxford has created all the hue and cry of Puseyism, and invigorated the +hopes of Rome. These men at Oxford have poisoned the minds of a few of +their pupils, and in the upper walks of life some sympathy is seen with +views that seem at least semi-Papistical. But the great body of the +people is sound. More than half the population is made up of dissenters +and they, to a man, hate "the beast;" and there is about as much danger +of Popery being established in England as there is of absolute monarchy +being embraced as our form of government. + +Popery in America must spread by immigration. We have Ireland virtually +in America; but here the Irish will gradually merge into Americans, and +the power of the priesthood will be less and less regarded by their +children. I have no apprehensions from the coming of Catholics to our +country. Let them come, and we must get Bibles ready for them, and Bible +readers to visit them, and schools to teach their children; and if +cardinal, or archbishop, or priest tell us that Popery is the friend of +science, and that it never persecuted genius, imprisoned learning, nor +burnt God's saints, we will tell the deceiver that he lies in the face +of God and man and the world's history. + +I am not, my dear fellow, uncharitable; a man may be better than his +creed; and I believe that some priests who have sung the song of the +mass will hereafter sing the song of Moses and the Lamb. But of Popery, +_as it is seen in Italy, and Austria, and other parts of the old world,_ +I cannot but pronounce it a curse to the human family, a system all +unworthy of God, and blasting to the happiness of man. + +The boys are in the enjoyment of health, and will soon see you. They +have been constant sources of pleasure to me, by their thoughtful +kindness and consideration; and nothing has transpired, to cause us to +look back with pain on any part of our wanderings from home. + +Yours, very truly, + +JNO. O. CHOULES. + + +To Mr. CHARLES W. DUSTAN, + +Stapleton; Staten Island, New York. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Young Americans Abroad, by Various + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK YOUNG AMERICANS ABROAD *** + +***** This file should be named 20625.txt or 20625.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/0/6/2/20625/ + +Produced by Frank van Drogen, Ralph Janke and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://dp.rastko.net, +from images generously made available by gallica +(Bibliotheque nationale de France) at http://gallica.bnf.fr. + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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