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diff --git a/20337.txt b/20337.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3d6c13e --- /dev/null +++ b/20337.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3379 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Narrative Of The Mutiny, On Board His +Majesty's Ship Bounty; And The Subsequent Voyage Of Part Of The Crew, In The Ship's Boat, by William Bligh + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Narrative Of The Mutiny, On Board His Majesty's Ship Bounty; And The Subsequent Voyage Of Part Of The Crew, In The Ship's Boat + +Author: William Bligh + +Release Date: January 11, 2007 [EBook #20337] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MUTINY OF THE BOUNTY *** + + + + +Produced by Chuck Greif, V. L. Simpson and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Posner Memorial Collection +(http://posnet.library.cmu.edu/Posner/)). + + + + + + + + A NARRATIVE OF THE MUTINY, + ON BOARD HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP _BOUNTY_; + AND THE SUBSEQUENT VOYAGE OF PART OF THE CREW, + IN THE SHIP's BOAT, + + From TOFOA, one of the Friendly Islands, + To TIMOR, a Dutch Settlement in the East Indies. + + Written by LIEUTENANT WILLIAM BLIGH. + + ILLUSTRATED WITH CHARTS. + + + LONDON: + PRINTED FOR GEORGE NICOL, BOOKSELLER TO HIS MAJESTY, PALL-MALL. + MDCCXC. + + + + + ADVERTISEMENT. + + +The following Narrative is only a part of a voyage undertaken for the +purpose of conveying the Bread-fruit Tree from the South Sea Islands to +the West Indies. The manner in which this expedition miscarried, with +the subsequent transactions and events, are here related. This part of +the voyage is not first in the order of time, yet the circumstances are +so distinct from that by which it was preceded, that it appears +unnecessary to delay giving as much early information as possible +concerning so extraordinary an event. The rest will be laid before the +Public as soon as it can be got ready; and it is intended to publish it +in such a manner, as, with the present Narrative, will make the account +of the voyage compleat. + +At present, for the better understanding the following pages, it is +sufficient to inform the reader, that in August, 1787, I was appointed +to command the Bounty, a ship of 215 tons burthen, carrying 4 +six-pounders, 4 swivels, and 46 men, including myself and every person +on board. We sailed from England in December, 1787, and arrived at +Otaheite the 26th of October, 1788. On the 4th of April, 1789, we left +Otaheite, with every favourable appearance of completing the object of +the voyage, in a manner equal to my most sanguine expectations. At this +period the ensuing Narrative commences. + + + + + A + + NARRATIVE, &c. + + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +I sailed from Otaheite on the 4th of April 1789, having on board 1015 +fine bread-fruit plants, besides many other valuable fruits of that +country, which, with unremitting attention, we had been collecting for +three and twenty weeks, and which were now in the highest state of +perfection. + +On the 11th of April, I discovered an island in latitude 18 deg. 52' S. and +longitude 200 deg. 19' E. by the natives called Whytootackee. On the 24th we +anchored at Annamooka, one of the Friendly Islands; from which, after +completing our wood and water, I sailed on the 27th, having every reason +to expect, from the fine condition of the plants, that they would +continue healthy. + +On the evening of the 28th, owing to light winds, we were not clear of +the islands, and at night I directed my course towards Tofoa. The master +had the first watch; the gunner the middle watch; and Mr. Christian, one +of the mates, the morning watch. This was the turn of duty for the +night. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +Just before sun-rising, Mr. Christian, with the master at arms, gunner's +mate, and Thomas Burket, seaman, came into my cabin while I was asleep, +and seizing me, tied my hands with a cord behind my back, and threatened +me with instant death, if I spoke or made the least noise: I, however, +called so loud as to alarm every one; but they had already secured the +officers who were not of their party, by placing centinels at their +doors. There were three men at my cabin door, besides the four within; +Christian had only a cutlass in his hand, the others had muskets and +bayonets. I was hauled out of bed, and forced on deck in my shirt, +suffering great pain from the tightness with which they had tied my +hands. I demanded the reason of such violence, but received no other +answer than threats of instant death, if I did not hold my tongue. Mr. +Elphinston, the master's mate, was kept in his birth; Mr. Nelson, +botanist, Mr. Peckover, gunner, Mr. Ledward, surgeon, and the master, +were confined to their cabins; and also the clerk, Mr. Samuel, but he +soon obtained leave to come on deck. The fore hatchway was guarded by +centinels; the boatswain and carpenter were, however, allowed to come on +deck, where they saw me standing abaft the mizen-mast, with my hands +tied behind my back, under a guard, with Christian at their head. + +The boatswain was now ordered to hoist the launch out, with a threat, if +he did not do it instantly, to take care of himself. + +The boat being out, Mr. Hayward and Mr. Hallet, midshipmen, and Mr. +Samuel, were ordered into it; upon which I demanded the cause of such an +order, and endeavoured to persuade some one to a sense of duty; but it +was to no effect: "Hold your tongue, Sir, or you are dead this instant," +was constantly repeated to me. + +The master, by this time, had sent to be allowed to come on deck, which +was permitted; but he was soon ordered back again to his cabin. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +I continued my endeavours to turn the tide of affairs, when Christian +changed the cutlass he had in his hand for a bayonet, that was brought +to him, and, holding me with a strong gripe by the cord that tied my +hands, he with many oaths threatened to kill me immediately if I would +not be quiet: the villains round me had their pieces cocked and bayonets +fixed. Particular people were now called on to go into the boat, and +were hurried over the side: whence I concluded that with these people I +was to be set adrift. + +I therefore made another effort to bring about a change, but with no +other effect than to be threatened with having my brains blown out. + +The boatswain and seamen, who were to go in the boat, were allowed to +collect twine, canvas, lines, sails, cordage, an eight and twenty gallon +cask of water, and the carpenter to take his tool chest. Mr. Samuel got +150lbs of bread, with a small quantity of rum and wine. He also got a +quadrant and compass into the boat; but was forbidden, on pain of death, +to touch either map, ephemeris, book of astronomical observations, +sextant, time-keeper, or any of my surveys or drawings. + +The mutineers now hurried those they meant to get rid of into the boat. +When most of them were in, Christian directed a dram to be served to +each of his own crew. I now unhappily saw that nothing could be done to +effect the recovery of the ship: there was no one to assist me, and +every endeavour on my part was answered with threats of death. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +The officers were called, and forced over the side into the boat, while +I was kept apart from every one, abaft the mizen-mast; Christian, armed +with a bayonet, holding me by the bandage that secured my hands. The +guard round me had their pieces cocked, but, on my daring the ungrateful +wretches to fire, they uncocked them. + +Isaac Martin, one of the guard over me, I saw, had an inclination to +assist me, and, as he fed me with shaddock, (my lips being quite parched +with my endeavours to bring about a change) we explained our wishes to +each other by our looks; but this being observed, Martin was instantly +removed from me; his inclination then was to leave the ship, for which +purpose he got into the boat; but with many threats they obliged him to +return. + +The armourer, Joseph Coleman, and the two carpenters, M'Intosh and +Norman, were also kept contrary to their inclination; and they begged of +me, after I was astern in the boat, to remember that they declared they +had no hand in the transaction. Michael Byrne, I am told, likewise +wanted to leave the ship. + +It is of no moment for me to recount my endeavours to bring back the +offenders to a sense of their duty: all I could do was by speaking to +them in general; but my endeavours were of no avail, for I was kept +securely bound, and no one but the guard suffered to come near me. + +To Mr. Samuel I am indebted for securing my journals and commission, +with some material ship papers. Without these I had nothing to certify +what I had done, and my honour and character might have been suspected, +without my possessing a proper document to have defended them. All this +he did with great resolution, though guarded and strictly watched. He +attempted to save the time-keeper, and a box with all my surveys, +drawings, and remarks for fifteen years past, which were numerous; when +he was hurried away, with "Damn your eyes, you are well off to get what +you have." + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +It appeared to me, that Christian was some time in doubt whether he +should keep the carpenter, or his mates; at length he determined on the +latter, and the carpenter was ordered into the boat. He was permitted, +but not without some opposition, to take his tool chest. + +Much altercation took place among the mutinous crew during the whole +business: some swore "I'll be damned if he does not find his way home, +if he gets any thing with him," (meaning me); others, when the +carpenter's chest was carrying away, "Damn my eyes, he will have a +vessel built in a month." While others laughed at the helpless situation +of the boat, being very deep, and so little room for those who were in +her. As for Christian, he seemed meditating instant destruction on +himself and every one. + +I asked for arms, but they laughed at me, and said I was well acquainted +with the people where I was going, and therefore did not want them; four +cutlasses, however, were thrown into the boat, after we were veered +astern. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +When the officers and men, with whom I was suffered to have no +communication, were put into the boat, they only waited for me, and the +master at arms informed Christian of it; who then said--"Come, captain +Bligh, your officers and men are now in the boat, and you must go with +them; if you attempt to make the least resistance you will instantly be +put to death:" and, without any farther ceremony, holding me by the cord +that tied my hands, with a tribe of armed ruffians about me, I was +forced over the side, where they untied my hands. Being in the boat we +were veered astern by a rope. A few pieces of pork were then thrown to +us, and some cloaths, also the cutlasses I have already mentioned; and +it was now that the armourer and carpenters called out to me to +remember that they had no hand in the transaction. After having +undergone a great deal of ridicule, and been kept some time to make +sport for these unfeeling wretches, we were at length cast adrift in the +open ocean. + +I had with me in the boat the following persons: + + Names. Stations. + + JOHN FRYER Master. + THOMAS LEDWARD Acting Surgeon. + DAVID NELSON Botanist. + WILLIAM PECKOVER Gunner. + WILLIAM COLE Boatswain. + WILLIAM PURCELL Carpenter. + WILLIAM ELPHINSTON Master's Mate. + THOMAS HAYWARD } Midshipmen. + JOHN HALLETT } + JOHN NORTON } Quarter Masters. + PETER LINKLETTER } + LAWRENCE LEBOGUE Sailmaker. + JOHN SMITH } Cooks. + THOMAS HALL } + GEORGE SIMPSON Quarter Master's Mate. + ROBERT TINKLER A boy. + ROBERT LAMB Butcher. + MR. SAMUEL Clerk. + +There remained on board the Bounty, as pirates, + + FLETCHER CHRISTIAN Master's Mate. + PETER HAYWOOD } + EDWARD YOUNG } Midshipmen. + GEORGE STEWART } + CHARLES CHURCHILL Master at Arms. + JOHN MILLS Gunner's Mate. + JAMES MORRISON Boatswain's Mate. + THOMAS BURKITT Able Seaman. + MATTHEW QUINTAL Ditto. + JOHN SUMNER Ditto. + JOHN MILLWARD Ditto. + WILLIAM M'KOY Ditto. + HENRY HILLBRANT Ditto. + MICHAEL BYRNE Ditto. + WILLIAM MUSPRAT Ditto. + ALEXANDER SMITH Ditto. + JOHN WILLIAMS Ditto. + THOMAS ELLISON Ditto. + ISAAC MARTIN Ditto. + RICHARD SKINNER Ditto. + MATTHEW THOMPSON Ditto. + WILLIAM BROWN Gardiner. + JOSEPH COLEMAN Armourer. + CHARLES NORMAN Carpenter's Mate. + THOMAS M'INTOSH Carpenter's Crew. + +In all 25 hands, and the most able men of the ship's company. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +Having little or no wind, we rowed pretty fast towards Tofoa, which bore +N E about 10 leagues from us. While the ship was in sight she steered to +the W N W, but I considered this only as a feint; for when we were sent +away--"Huzza for Otaheite," was frequently heard among the mutineers. + +Christian, the captain of the gang, is of a respectable family in the +north of England. This was the third voyage he had made with me; and, as +I found it necessary to keep my ship's company at three watches, I gave +him an order to take charge of the third, his abilities being thoroughly +equal to the task; and by this means my master and gunner were not at +watch and watch. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +Haywood is also of a respectable family in the north of England, and a +young man of abilities, as well as Christian. These two were objects of +my particular regard and attention, and I took great pains to instruct +them, for they really promised, as professional men, to be a credit to +their country. + +Young was well recommended, and appeared to me an able stout seaman; +therefore I was glad to take him: he, however, fell short of what his +appearance promised. + +Stewart was a young man of creditable parents, in the Orkneys; at which +place, on the return of the Resolution from the South Seas, in 1780, we +received so many civilities, that, on that account only, I should gladly +have taken him with me: but, independent of this recommendation, he was +a seaman, and had always borne a good character. + +Notwithstanding the roughness with which I was treated, the remembrance +of past kindnesses produced some signs of remorse in Christian. When +they were forcing me out of the ship, I asked him, if this treatment was +a proper return for the many instances he had received of my friendship? +he appeared disturbed at my question, and answered, with much emotion, +"That,--captain Bligh,--that is the thing;--I am in hell--I am in hell." + +As soon as I had time to reflect, I felt an inward satisfaction which +prevented any depression of my spirits: conscious of my integrity, and +anxious solicitude for the good of the service in which I was engaged, +I found my mind wonderfully supported, and I began to conceive hopes, +notwithstanding so heavy a calamity, that I should one day be able to +account to my King and country for the misfortune.--A few hours before, +my situation had been peculiarly flattering. I had a ship in the most +perfect order, and well stored with every necessary both for service and +health: by early attention to those particulars I had, as much as lay in +my power, provided against any accident, in case I could not get through +Endeavour Straits, as well as against what might befal me in them; add +to this, the plants had been successfully preserved in the most +flourishing state: so that, upon the whole, the voyage was two thirds +completed, and the remaining part in a very promising way; every person +on board being in perfect health, to establish which was ever amongst +the principal objects of my attention. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +It will very naturally be asked, what could be the reason for such a +revolt? in answer to which, I can only conjecture that the mutineers had +assured themselves of a more happy life among the Otaheiteans, than they +could possibly have in England; which, joined to some female +connections, have most probably been the principal cause of the whole +transaction. + +The women at Otaheite are handsome, mild and chearful in their manners +and conversation, possessed of great sensibility, and have sufficient +delicacy to make them admired and beloved. The chiefs were so much +attached to our people, that they rather encouraged their stay among +them than otherwise, and even made them promises of large possessions. +Under these, and many other attendant circumstances, equally desirable, +it is now perhaps not so much to be wondered at, though scarcely +possible to have been foreseen, that a set of sailors, most of them +void of connections, should be led away; especially when, in addition to +such powerful inducements, they imagined it in their power to fix +themselves in the midst of plenty, on the finest island in the world, +where they need not labour, and where the allurements of dissipation are +beyond any thing that can be conceived. The utmost, however, that any +commander could have supposed to have happened is, that some of the +people would have been tempted to desert. But if it should be asserted, +that a commander is to guard against an act of mutiny and piracy in his +own ship, more than by the common rules of service, it is as much as to +say that he must sleep locked up, and when awake, be girded with +pistols. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +Desertions have happened, more or less, from many of the ships that have +been at the Society Islands; but it ever has been in the commanders +power to make the chiefs return their people: the knowledge, therefore, +that it was unsafe to desert; perhaps, first led mine to consider with +what ease so small a ship might be surprized, and that so favourable an +opportunity would never offer to them again. + +The secrecy of this mutiny is beyond all conception. Thirteen of the +party, who were with me, had always lived forward among the people; yet +neither they, nor the messmates of Christian, Stewart, Haywood, and +Young, had ever observed any circumstance to give them suspicion of what +was going on. With such close-planned acts of villainy, and my mind free +from any suspicion, it is not wonderful that I have been got the better +of. Perhaps, if I had had marines, a centinel at my cabin-door might +have prevented it; for I slept with the door always open, that the +officer of the watch might have access to me on all occasions. The +possibility of such a conspiracy was ever the farthest from my +thoughts. Had their mutiny been occasioned by any grievances, either +real or imaginary, I must have discovered symptoms of their discontent, +which would have put me on my guard: but the case was far otherwise. +Christian, in particular, I was on the most friendly terms with; that +very day he was engaged to have dined with me; and the preceding night +he excused himself from supping with me, on pretence of being unwell; +for which I felt concerned, having no suspicions of his integrity and +honour. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +It now remained with me to consider what was best to be done. My first +determination was to seek a supply of bread-fruit and water at Tofoa, +and afterwards to sail for Tongataboo; and there risk a solicitation to +Poulaho, the king, to equip my boat, and grant a supply of water and +provisions, so as to enable us to reach the East Indies. + +The quantity of provisions I found in the boat was 150 lb. of bread, 16 +pieces of pork, each piece weighing 2 lb. 6 quarts of rum, 6 bottles of +wine, with 28 gallons of water, and four empty barrecoes. + +[Sidenote: Wednesday 29.] + +Wednesday, April 29th[*]. Happily the afternoon kept calm, until about 4 +o'clock, when we were so far to windward, that, with a moderate easterly +breeze which sprung up, we were able to sail. It was nevertheless dark +when we got to Tofoa, where I expected to land; but the shore proved to +be so steep and rocky, that I was obliged to give up all thoughts of it, +and keep the boat under the lee of the island with two oars; for there +was no anchorage. Having fixed on this mode of proceeding for the night, +I served to every person half a pint of grog, and each took to his rest +as well as our unhappy situation would allow. + +[*] It is to be observed, that the account of time is kept in the +nautical way, each day ending at noon. Thus the beginning of the 29th of +April is, according to the common way of reckoning, the afternoon of the +28th. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL 29.] + +In the morning, at dawn of day, we set off along shore in search of +landing, and about ten o'clock we discovered a stony cove at the N W +part of the island, where I dropt the grapnel within 20 yards of the +rocks. A great deal of surf ran on the shore; but, as I was unwilling to +diminish our stock of provisions, I landed Mr. Samuel, and some others, +who climbed the cliffs, and got into the country to search for supplies. +The rest of us remained at the cove, not discovering any way to get into +the country, but that by which Mr. Samuel had proceeded. It was great +consolation to me to find, that the spirits of my people did not sink, +notwithstanding our miserable and almost hopeless situation. Towards +noon Mr. Samuel returned, with a few quarts of water, which he had found +in holes; but he had met with no spring or any prospect of a sufficient +supply in that particular, and had only seen signs of inhabitants. As it +was impossible to know how much we might be in want, I only issued a +morsel of bread, and a glass of wine, to each person for dinner. + +I observed the latitude of this cove to be 19 deg. 41' S. + +This is the N W part of Tofoa, the north-westernmost of the Friendly +Islands. + +[Sidenote: Thursday 30.] + +Thursday, April 30th. Fair weather, but the wind blew so violently from +the E S E that I could not venture to sea. Our detention therefore made +it absolutely necessary to see what we could do more for our support; +for I determined, if possible, to keep my first stock entire: I +therefore weighed, and rowed along shore, to see if any thing could be +got; and at last discovered some cocoa-nut trees, but they were on the +top of high precipices, and the surf made it dangerous landing; both +one and the other we, however, got the better of. Some, with much +difficulty, climbed the cliffs, and got about 20 cocoa-nuts, and others +slung them to ropes, by which we hauled them through the surf into the +boat. This was all that could be done here; and, as I found no place so +eligible as the one we had left to spend the night at, I returned to the +cove, and, having served a cocoa-nut to each person, we went to rest +again in the boat. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL 30.] + +At dawn of day I attempted to get to sea; but the wind and weather +proved so bad, that I was glad to return to my former station; where, +after issuing a morsel of bread and a spoonful of rum to each person, we +landed, and I went off with Mr. Nelson, Mr. Samuel, and some others, +into the country, having hauled ourselves up the precipice by long +vines, which were fixed there by the natives for that purpose; this +being the only way into the country. + +We found a few deserted huts, and a small plantain walk, but little +taken care of; from which we could only collect three small bunches of +plantains. After passing this place, we came to a deep gully that led +towards a mountain, near a volcano; and, as I conceived that in the +rainy season very great torrents of water must pass through it, we hoped +to find sufficient for our use remaining in some holes of the rocks; +but, after all our search, the whole that we found was only nine +gallons, in the course of the day. We advanced within two miles of the +foot of the highest mountain in the island, on which is the volcano that +is almost constantly burning. The country near it is all covered with +lava, and has a most dreary appearance. As we had not been fortunate in +our discoveries, and saw but little to alleviate our distresses, we +filled our cocoa-nut shells with the water we found, and returned +exceedingly fatigued and faint. When I came to the precipice whence we +were to descend into the cove, I was seized with such a dizziness in my +head, that I thought it scarce possible to effect it: however, by the +assistance of Mr. Nelson, and others, they at last got me down, in a +weak condition. Every person being returned by noon, I gave about an +ounce of pork and two plantains to each, with half a glass of wine. I +again observed the latitude of this place 19 deg. 41' south. The people who +remained by the boat I had directed to look for fish, or what they could +pick up about the rocks; but nothing eatable could be found: so that, +upon the whole, we considered ourselves on as miserable a spot of land +as could well be imagined. + +I could not say positively, from the former knowledge I had of this +island, whether it was inhabited or not; but I knew it was considered +inferior to the other islands, and I was not certain but that the +Indians only resorted to it at particular times. I was very anxious to +ascertain this point; for, in case there had only been a few people +here, and those could have furnished us with but very moderate supplies, +the remaining in this spot to have made preparations for our voyage, +would have been preferable to the risk of going amongst multitudes, +where perhaps we might lose every thing. A party, therefore, +sufficiently strong, I determined should go another route, as soon as +the sun became lower; and they cheerfully undertook it. + +[Sidenote: MAY. Friday 1.] + +Friday, May the 1st: stormy weather, wind E S E and S E. About two +o'clock in the afternoon the party set out; but, after suffering much +fatigue, they returned in the evening, without any kind of success. + +At the head of the cove, about 150 yards from the water-side, was a +cave; across the stony beach was about 100 yards, and the only way from +the country into the cove was that which I have already described. The +situation secured us from the danger of being surprised, and I +determined to remain on shore for the night, with a part of my people, +that the others might have more room to rest in the boat, with the +master; whom I directed to lie at a grapnel, and be watchful, in case we +should be attacked. I ordered one plantain for each person to be boiled; +and, having supped on this scanty allowance, with a quarter of a pint of +grog, and fixed the watches for the night, those whose turn it was, laid +down to sleep in the cave; before which we kept up a good fire, yet +notwithstanding we were much troubled with flies and musquitoes. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 1.] + +At dawn of day the party set out again in a different route, to see what +they could find; in the course of which they suffered greatly for want +of water: they, however, met with two men, a woman, and a child; the men +came with them to the cove, and brought two cocoa-nut shells of water. I +immediately made friends with these people, and sent them away for +bread-fruit, plantains, and water. Soon after other natives came to us; +and by noon I had 30 of them about me, trading with the articles we were +in want of: but I could only afford one ounce of pork, and a quarter of +a bread-fruit, to each man for dinner, with half a pint of water; for I +was fixed in not using any of the bread or water in the boat. + +No particular chief was yet among the natives: they were, +notwithstanding, tractable, and behaved honestly, giving the provisions +they brought for a few buttons and beads. The party who had been out, +informed me of having discovered several neat plantations; so that it +became no longer a doubt of there being settled inhabitants on the +island; and for that reason I determined to get what I could, and sail +the first moment the wind and weather would allow me to put to sea. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 1.] + +[Sidenote: Saturday 2.] + +Saturday, May the 2d: stormy weather, wind E S E. It had hitherto been a +weighty consideration with me, how I was to account to the natives for +the loss of my ship: I knew they had too much sense to be amused with a +story that the ship was to join me, when she was not in sight from the +hills. I was at first doubtful whether I should tell the real fact, or +say that the ship had overset and sunk, and that only we were saved: the +latter appeared to me to be the most proper and advantageous to us, and +I accordingly instructed my people, that we might all agree in one +story. As I expected, enquiries were made after the ship, and they +seemed readily satisfied with our account; but there did not appear the +least symptom of joy or sorrow in their faces, although I fancied I +discovered some marks of surprise. Some of the natives were coming and +going the whole afternoon, and we got enough of bread-fruit, plantains, +and cocoa-nuts for another day; but water they only brought us about +five pints. A canoe also came in with four men, and brought a few +cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit, which I bought as I had done the rest. Nails +were much enquired after, but I would not suffer one to be shewn, as I +wanted them for the use of the boat. + +Towards evening I had the satisfaction to find our stock of provisions +somewhat increased: but the natives did not appear to have much to +spare. What they brought was in such small quantities, that I had no +reason to hope we should be able to procure from them sufficient to +stock us for our voyage. At sun-set all the natives left us in quiet +possession of the cove. I thought this a good sign, and made no doubt +that they would come again the next day with a larger proportion of food +and water, with which I hoped to sail without farther delay: for if, in +attempting to get to Tongataboo, we should be blown away from the +islands altogether, there would be a larger quantity of provisions to +support us against such a misfortune. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 2.] + +At night I served a quarter of a bread-fruit and a cocoa-nut to each +person for supper; and, a good fire being made, all but the watch went +to sleep. + +At day-break I was happy to find every one's spirits a little revived, +and that they no longer regarded me with those anxious looks, which had +constantly been directed towards me since we lost sight of the ship: +every countenance appeared to have a degree of cheerfulness, and they +all seemed determined to do their best. + +As I doubted of water being brought by the natives, I sent a party among +the gullies in the mountains, with empty shells, to see what they could +get. In their absence the natives came about us, as I expected, but more +numerous; also two canoes came in from round the north side of the +island. In one of them was an elderly chief, called Maccaackavow. Soon +after some of our foraging party returned, and with them came a +good-looking chief, called Eegijeefow, or perhaps more properly Eefow, +Egij or Eghee, signifying a chief. To both these men I made a present of +an old shirt and a knife, and I soon found they either had seen me, or +had heard of my being at Annamooka. They knew I had been with captain +Cook, who they enquired after, and also captain Clerk. They were very +inquisitive to know in what manner I had lost my ship. During this +conversation a young man appeared, whom I remembered to have seen at +Annamooka, called Nageete: he expressed much pleasure at seeing me. I +now enquired after Poulaho and Feenow, who, they said, were at +Tongataboo; and Eefow agreed to accompany me thither, if I would wait +till the weather moderated. The readiness and affability of this man +gave me much satisfaction. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 2.] + +This, however, was but of short duration, for the natives began to +increase in number, and I observed some symptoms of a design against us; +soon after they attempted to haul the boat on shore, when I threatened +Eefow with a cutlass, to induce him to make them desist; which they did, +and every thing became quiet again. My people, who had been in the +mountains, now returned with about three gallons of water. I kept buying +up the little bread-fruit that was brought to us, and likewise some +spears to arm my men with, having only four cutlasses, two of which were +in the boat. As we had no means of improving our situation, I told our +people I would wait until sun-set, by which time, perhaps, something +might happen in our favour: that if we attempted to go at present, we +must fight our way through, which we could do more advantageously at +night; and that in the mean time we would endeavour to get off to the +boat what we had bought. The beach was now lined with the natives, and +we heard nothing but the knocking of stones together, which they had in +each hand. I knew very well this was the sign of an attack. It being now +noon, I served a cocoa-nut and a bread-fruit to each person for dinner, +and gave some to the chiefs, with whom I continued to appear intimate +and friendly. They frequently importuned me to sit down, but I as +constantly refused; for it occurred both to Mr. Nelson and myself, that +they intended to seize hold of me, if I gave them such an opportunity. +Keeping, therefore, constantly on our guard, we were suffered to eat our +uncomfortable meal in some quietness. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 2.] + +[Sidenote: Sunday 3.] + +Sunday, 3d May, fresh gales at S E and E S E, varying to the N E in the +latter part, with a storm of wind. + +After dinner we began by little and little to get our things into the +boat, which was a troublesome business, on account of the surf. I +carefully watched the motions of the natives, who still increased in +number, and found that, instead of their intention being to leave us, +fires were made, and places fixed on for their stay during the night. +Consultations were also held among them, and every thing assured me we +should be attacked. I sent orders to the master, that when he saw us +coming down, he should keep the boat close to the shore, that we might +the more readily embark. + +I had my journal on shore with me, writing the occurrences in the cave, +and in sending it down to the boat it was nearly snatched away, but for +the timely assistance of the gunner. + +The sun was near setting when I gave the word, on which every person, +who was on shore with me, boldly took up his proportion of things, and +carried them to the boat. The chiefs asked me if I would not stay with +them all night, I said, "No, I never sleep out of my boat; but in the +morning we will again trade with you, and I shall remain until the +weather is moderate, that we may go, as we have agreed, to see Poulaho, +at Tongataboo." Maccaackavow then got up, and said, "You will not sleep +on shore? then Mattie," (which directly signifies we will kill you) and +he left me. The onset was now preparing; every one, as I have described +before, kept knocking stones together, and Eefow quitted me. We had now +all but two or three things in the boat, when I took Nageete by the +hand, and we walked down the beach, every one in a silent kind of +horror. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 3.] + +When I came to the boat, and was seeing the people embark, Nageete +wanted me to stay to speak to Eefow; but I found he was encouraging them +to the attack, and I determined, had it then begun, to have killed him +for his treacherous behaviour. I ordered the carpenter not to quit me +until the other people were in the boat. Nageete, finding I would not +stay, loosed himself from my hold and went off, and we all got into the +boat except one man, who, while I was getting on board, quitted it, and +ran up the beach to cast the stern fast off, notwithstanding the master +and others called to him to return, while they were hauling me out of +the water. + +I was no sooner in the boat than the attack began by about 200 men; the +unfortunate poor man who had run up the beach was knocked down, and the +stones flew like a shower of shot. Many Indians got hold of the stern +rope, and were near hauling us on shore, and would certainly have done +it if I had not had a knife in my pocket, with which I cut the rope. We +then hauled off to the grapnel, every one being more or less hurt. At +this time I saw five of the natives about the poor man they had killed, +and two of them were beating him about the head with stones in their +hands. + +[Sidenote: 1789. May 3] + +We had no time to reflect, before, to my surprise, they filled their +canoes with stones, and twelve men came off after us to renew the +attack, which they did so effectually as nearly to disable all of us. +Our grapnel was foul, but Providence here assisted us; the fluke broke, +and we got to our oars, and pulled to sea. They, however, could paddle +round us, so that we were obliged to sustain the attack without being +able to return it, except with such stones as lodged in the boat, and in +this I found we were very inferior to them. We could not close, because +our boat was lumbered and heavy, and that they knew very well: I +therefore adopted the expedient of throwing overboard some cloaths, +which they lost time in picking up; and, as it was now almost dark, they +gave over the attack, and returned towards the shore, leaving us to +reflect on our unhappy situation. + +The poor man I lost was John Norton: this was his second voyage with me +as a quarter-master, and his worthy character made me lament his loss +very much. He has left an aged parent, I am told, whom he supported. + +[Sidenote: 1789. May 3.] + +I once before sustained an attack of a similar nature, with a smaller +number of Europeans, against a multitude of Indians; it was after the +death of captain Cook, on the Morai at Owhyhee, where I was left by +lieutenant King: yet, notwithstanding, I did not conceive that the power +of a man's arm could throw stones, from two to eight pounds weight, with +such force and exactness as these people did. Here unhappily I was +without arms, and the Indians knew it; but it was a fortunate +circumstance that they did not begin to attack us in the cave: in that +case our destruction must have been inevitable, and we should have had +nothing left for it but to die as bravely as we could, fighting close +together; in which I found every one cheerfully disposed to join me. +This appearance of resolution deterred them, supposing they could effect +their purpose without risk after we were in the boat. + +Taking this as a sample of the dispositions of the Indians, there was +little reason to expect much benefit if I persevered in my intention of +visiting Poulaho; for I considered their good behaviour hitherto to +proceed from a dread of our fire-arms, which, now knowing us destitute +of, would cease; and, even supposing our lives not in danger, the boat +and every thing we had would most probably be taken from us, and thereby +all hopes precluded of ever being able to return to our native country. + +We were now sailing along the west side of the island Tofoa, and my mind +was employed in considering what was best to be done, when I was +solicited by all hands to take them towards home: and, when I told them +no hopes of relief for us remained, but what I might find at New +Holland, until I came to Timor, a distance of full 1200 leagues, where +was a Dutch settlement, but in what part of the island I knew not, they +all agreed to live on one ounce of bread, and a quarter of a pint of +water, per day. Therefore, after examining our stock of provisions, and +recommending this as a sacred promise for ever to their memory, we bore +away across a sea, where the navigation is but little known, in a small +boat, twenty-three feet long from stern to stern, deep laden with +eighteen men; without a chart, and nothing but my own recollection and +general knowledge of the situation of places, assisted by a book of +latitudes and longitudes, to guide us. I was happy, however, to see +every one better satisfied with our situation in this particular than +myself. + +[Sidenote: 1789. May 3.] + +Our stock of provisions consisted of about one hundred and fifty pounds +of bread, twenty-eight gallons of water, twenty pounds of pork, three +bottles of wine, and five quarts of rum. The difference between this and +the quantity we had on leaving the ship, was principally owing to loss +in the bustle and confusion of the attack. A few cocoa-nuts were in the +boat, and some bread-fruit, but the latter was trampled to pieces. + +It was about eight o'clock at night when I bore away under a reefed lug +fore-sail: and, having divided the people into watches, and got the boat +in a little order, we returned God thanks for our miraculous +preservation, and, fully confident of his gracious support, I found my +mind more at ease than for some time past. + +At day-break the gale increased; the sun rose very fiery and red, a sure +indication of a severe gale of wind. At eight it blew a violent storm, +and the sea ran very high, so that between the seas the sail was +becalmed, and when on the top of the sea it was too much to have set: +but I was obliged to carry to it, for we were now in very imminent +danger and distress, the sea curling over the stern of the boat, which +obliged us to bale with all our might. A situation more distressing has, +perhaps, seldom been experienced. + +Our bread was in bags, and in danger of being spoiled by the wet: to be +starved to death was inevitable, if this could not be prevented: I +therefore began to examine what cloaths there were in the boat, and what +other things could be spared; and, having determined that only two suits +should be kept for each person, the rest was thrown overboard, with some +rope and spare sails, which lightened the boat considerably, and we had +more room to bale the water out. Fortunately the carpenter had a good +chest in the boat, into which I put the bread the first favourable +moment. His tool chest also was cleared, and the tools stowed in the +bottom of the boat, so that this became a second convenience. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 3.] + +I now served a tea-spoonful of rum to each person, (for we were very wet +and cold) with a quarter of a bread-fruit, which was scarce eatable, for +dinner; but our engagement was now strictly to be carried into +execution, and I was fully determined to make what provisions I had last +eight weeks, let the daily proportion be ever so small. + +At noon I considered my course and distance from Tofoa to be W N W 3/4 +W. 86 miles, my latitude 19 deg. 27' S. I directed my course to the W N W, +that I might get a sight of the islands called Feejee, if they laid in +the direction the natives had pointed out to me. + +[Sidenote: Monday 4.] + +Monday, 4th May. This day the weather was very severe, it blew a storm +from N E to E S E. The sea ran higher than yesterday, and the fatigue of +baling, to keep the boat from filling, was exceedingly great. We could +do nothing more than keep before the sea; in the course of which the +boat performed so wonderfully well, that I no longer dreaded any danger +in that respect. But among the hardships we were to undergo, that of +being constantly wet was not the least: the nights were very cold, and +at day-light our limbs were so benumbed, that we could scarce find the +use of them. At this time I served a tea-spoonful of rum to each person, +which we all found great benefit from. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 4.] + +As I have mentioned before, I determined to keep to the W N W, until I +got more to the northward, for I not only expected to have better +weather, but to see the Feejee Islands, as I have often understood, from +the natives of Annamooka, that they lie in that direction; Captain Cook +likewise considers them to be N W by W from Tongataboo. Just before noon +we discovered a small flat island of a moderate height, bearing W S W, 4 +or 5 leagues. I observed in latitude 18 deg. 58' S; our longitude, by +account, 3 deg. 4' W from the island Tofoa, having made a N 72 deg. W course, +distance 95 miles, since yesterday noon. I divided five small cocoa-nuts +for our dinner, and every one was satisfied. + +[Sidenote: Tuesday 5.] + +Tuesday, 5th May. Towards the evening the gale considerably abated. Wind +S E. + +A little after noon, other islands appeared, and at a quarter past three +o'clock we could count eight, bearing from S round by the west to N W by +N; those to the south, which were the nearest, being four leagues +distant from us. + +I kept my course to the N W by W, between the islands, and at six +o'clock discovered three other small islands to the N W, the westernmost +of them bore N W 1/2 W 7 leagues. I steered to the southward of these +islands, a W N W course for the night, under a reefed sail. + +Served a few broken pieces of bread-fruit for supper, and performed +prayers. + +The night turned out fair, and, having had tolerable rest, every one +seemed considerably better in the morning, and contentedly breakfasted +on a few pieces of yams that were found in the boat. After breakfast we +prepared a chest for our bread, and it got secured: but unfortunately a +great deal was damaged and rotten; this nevertheless we were glad to +keep for use. + +I had hitherto been scarcely able to keep any account of our run; but we +now equipped ourselves a little better, by getting a log-line marked, +and, having practised at counting seconds; several could do it with +some degree of exactness. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 5.] + +The islands I have passed lie between the latitude of 19 deg. 5' S and 18 deg. +19' S, and, according to my reckoning, from 3 deg. 17' to 3 deg. 46' W longitude +from the island Tofoa: the largest may be about six leagues in circuit; +but it is impossible for me to be very exact. To show where they are to +be found again is the most my situation enabled me to do. The sketch I +have made, will give a comparative view of their extent. I believe all +the larger islands are inhabited, as they appeared very fertile. + +At noon I observed, in latitude 18 deg. 10' S, and considered my course and +distance from yesterday noon, N W by W 1/2 W, 94 miles; longitude, by +account, from Tofoa 4 deg. 29' W. + +For dinner, I served some of the damaged bread, and a quarter of a pint +of water. + +[Sidenote: Wednesday 6.] + +Wednesday, 6th May. Fresh breezes E N E, and fair weather, but very +hazy. + +About six o'clock this afternoon I discovered two islands, one bearing W +by S 6 leagues, and the other N W by N 8 leagues; I kept to windward of +the northernmost, and passing it by 10 o'clock, I resumed my course to +the N W and W N W. At day-light in the morning I discovered a number of +other islands from S S E to the W, and round to N E by E; between those +in the N W I determined to pass. At noon a small sandy island or key, 2 +miles distant from me, bore from E to S 3/4 W. I had passed ten islands, +the largest of which may be 6 or 8 leagues in circuit. Much larger lands +appeared in the S W and N by W, between which I directed my course. +Latitude observed 17 deg. 17' S; course since yesterday noon N 50 deg. W; +distance 84 miles; longitude made, by account, 5 deg. 37' W. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 6.] + +Our supper, breakfast, and dinner, consisted of a quarter of a pint of +cocoa-nut milk, and the meat, which did not exceed two ounces to each +person: it was received very contentedly, but we suffered great drought. +I dared not to land, as we had no arms, and were less capable to defend +ourselves than we were at Tofoa. + +To keep an account of the boat's run was rendered difficult, from being +constantly wet with the sea breaking over us; but, as we advanced +towards the land, the sea became smoother, and I was enabled to form a +sketch of the islands, which will serve to give a general knowledge of +their extent. Those I have been near are fruitful and hilly, some very +mountainous, and all of a good height. + +To our great joy we hooked a fish, but we were miserably disappointed by +its being lost in getting into the boat. + +[Sidenote: Thursday 7.] + +Thursday, 7th May. Variable weather and cloudy, wind north-easterly, and +calms. I continued my course to the N W, between the islands, which, by +the evening, appeared of considerable extent, woody and mountainous. At +sun-set the southernmost bore from S to S W by W, and the northernmost +from N by W 1/2 W to N E 1/2 E. At six o'clock I was nearly mid-way +between them, and about 6 leagues distant from each shore, when I fell +in with a coral bank, where I had only four feet water, without the +least break on it, or ruffle of the sea to give us warning. I could only +see that it extended about a mile on each side of us; but, as it is +probable that it extends much farther, I have laid it down so in my +sketch. + +I now directed my course W by N for the night, and served to each person +an ounce of the damaged bread, and a quarter of a pint of water, for +supper. + +[Sidenote: 1789. May 7.] + +It may readily be supposed, that our lodgings were very miserable and +confined, and I had only in my power to remedy the latter defect by +putting ourselves at watch and watch; so that one half always sat up +while the other lay down on the boat's bottom, or upon a chest, with +nothing to cover us but the heavens. Our limbs were dreadfully cramped, +for we could not stretch them out, and the nights were so cold, and we +so constantly wet, that after a few hours sleep we could scarce move. + +At dawn of day we again discovered land from W S W to W N W, and another +island N N W, the latter a high round lump of but little extent; and I +could see the southern land that I had passed in the night. Being very +wet and cold, I served a spoonful of rum and a morsel of bread for +breakfast. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 7.] + +As I advanced towards the land in the west, it appeared in a variety of +forms; some extraordinary high rocks, and the country agreeably +interspersed with high and low land, covered in some places with wood. +Off the N E part lay two small rocky islands, between which and the +island to the N E, 4 leagues apart, I directed my course; but a lee +current very unexpectedly set us very near to the shore, and I could +only get clear of it by rowing, passing close to the reef that +surrounded the rocky isles. We now observed two large sailing canoes +coming swiftly after us along shore, and, being apprehensive of their +intentions, we rowed with some anxiety, being sensible of our weak and +defenceless state. It was now noon, calm and cloudy weather, my latitude +is therefore doubtful to 3 or 4 miles; my course since yesterday noon N +56 W, distance 79 miles; latitude by account, 16 deg. 29' S, and longitude +by account, from Tofoa, 6 deg. 46' W. Being constantly wet, it was with the +utmost difficulty I could open a book to write, and I am sensible that +what I have done can only serve to point out where these lands are to +be found again, and give an idea of their extent. + +[Sidenote: Friday 8.] + +Friday, 8th May. All the afternoon the weather was very rainy, attended +with thunder and lightning. Wind N N E. + +Only one of the canoes gained upon us, and by three o'clock in the +afternoon was not more than two miles off, when she gave over chase. + +If I may judge from the sail of the vessels, they are the same as at the +Friendly Islands, and the nearness of their situation leaves little room +to doubt of their being the same kind of people. Whether these canoes +had any hostile intention against us is a matter of doubt; perhaps we +might have benefited by an intercourse with them, but in our defenceless +situation it would have been risking too much to make the experiment. + +I imagine these to be the islands called Feejee, as their extent, +direction, and distance from the Friendly Islands, answers to the +description given of them by those Islanders. Heavy rain came on at four +o'clock, when every person did their utmost to catch some water, and we +increased our stock to 34 gallons, besides quenching our thirst for the +first time since we had been at sea; but an attendant consequence made +us pass the night very miserably, for, being extremely wet, and no dry +things to shift or cover us, we experienced cold and shiverings scarce +to be conceived. Most fortunately for us, the forenoon turned out fair, +and we stripped and dried our cloaths. The allowance I issued to-day, +was an ounce and a half of pork, a tea-spoonful of rum, half a pint of +cocoa-nut milk, and an ounce of bread. The rum, though so small in +quantity, was of the greatest service. A fishing-line was generally +towing, and we saw great numbers of fish, but could never catch one. + +At noon, I observed, in latitude 16 deg. 4' S, and found I had made a +course, from yesterday noon, N 62 deg. W, distance 62 miles; longitude, by +account, from Tofoa, 7 deg. 42' W. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 8.] + +The land I passed yesterday, and the day before, is a group of islands, +14 or 16 in number, lying between the latitude of 16 deg. 26' S and 17 deg. 57' +S, and in longitude, by my account, 4 deg. 47' to 7 deg. 17' W from Tofoa; three +of these islands are very large, having from 30 to 40 leagues of +sea-coast. + +[Sidenote: Saturday 9.] + +Saturday, 9th May. Fine weather, and light winds from the N E to E by S. + +This afternoon we cleaned out the boat, and it employed us till sun-set +to get every thing dry and in order. Hitherto I had issued the allowance +by guess, but I now got a pair of scales, made with two cocoa-nut +shells; and, having accidentally some pistol-balls in the boat, 25[*] of +which weighed one pound, or 16 ounces, I adopted one, as the proportion +of weight that each person should receive of bread at the times I served +it. I also amused all hands, with describing the situation of New Guinea +and New Holland, and gave them every information in my power, that in +case any accident happened to me, those who survived might have some +idea of what they were about, and be able to find their way to Timor, +which at present they knew nothing of, more than the name, and some not +that. + +[*] It weighed 272 grains. + +At night I served a quarter of a pint of water, and half an ounce of +bread, for supper. In the morning, a quarter of a pint of cocoa-nut +milk, and some of the decayed bread, for breakfast; and for dinner, I +divided the meat of four cocoa-nuts, with the remainder of the rotten +bread, which was only eatable by such distressed people. + +At noon, I observed the latitude to be 15 deg. 47' S; course since yesterday +N 75 deg. W; distant 64 miles; longitude made, by account, 8 deg. 45' W. + +[Sidenote: 1789 MAY 10.] + +[Sidenote: Sunday 10.] + +Sunday, May the 10th. The first part of this day fine weather; but after +sun-set it became squally, with hard rain, thunder, and lightning, and a +fresh gale; wind E by S, S E, and S S E. + +In the afternoon I got fitted a pair of shrouds for each mast and +contrived a canvass weather cloth round the boat, and raised the +quarters about nine inches, by nailing on the seats of the stern sheets, +which proved of great benefit to us. + +About nine o'clock in the evening, the clouds began to gather, and we +had a prodigious fall of rain, with severe thunder and lightning. By +midnight we had caught about twenty gallons of water. Being miserably +wet and cold, I served to each person a tea-spoonful of rum, to enable +them to bear with their distressed situation. The weather continued +extremely bad, and the wind increased; we spent a very miserable night, +without sleep, but such as could be got in the midst of rain. The day +brought us no relief but its light. The sea was constantly breaking over +us, which kept two persons baling; and we had no choice how to steer, +for we were obliged to keep before the waves to avoid filling the boat. + +The allowance which I now regularly served to each person was one 25th +of a pound of bread, and a quarter of a pint of water, at sun-set, eight +in the morning, and at noon. To-day I gave about half an ounce of pork +for dinner, which, though any moderate person would have considered but +a mouthful, was divided into three or four. + +The rain abated towards noon, and I observed the latitude to be 15 deg. 17' +S; course N 67 deg. W; distance 78 miles; longitude made 10 deg. W. + +[Sidenote: Monday 11.] + +Monday, May the 11th. Strong gales from S S E to S E, and very squally +weather, with a high breaking sea, so that we were miserably wet, and +suffered great cold in the night. In the morning at day-break I served +to every person a tea-spoonful of rum, our limbs being so cramped that +we could scarce feel the use of them. Our situation was now extremely +dangerous, the sea frequently running over our stern, which kept us +baling with all our strength. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 11.] + +At noon the sun appeared, which gave us as much pleasure as in a +winter's day in England. I issued the 25th of a pound of bread, and a +quarter of a pint of water, as yesterday. Latitude observed 14 deg. 50' S; +course N 71 deg. W; distance 102 miles; and longitude, by account, 11 deg. 39' +W. from Tofoa. + +[Sidenote: Tuesday 12.] + +Tuesday, May the 12th. Strong gales at S E, with much rain and dark +dismal weather, moderating towards noon and wind varying to the N E. + +Having again experienced a dreadful night, the day showed to me a poor +miserable set of beings full of wants, without any thing to relieve +them. Some complained of a great pain in their bowels, and all of having +but very little use of their limbs. What sleep we got was scarce +refreshing, we being covered with sea and rain. Two persons were obliged +to be always baling the water out of the boat. I served a spoonful of +rum at day-dawn, and the usual allowance of bread and water, for supper, +breakfast, and dinner. + +At noon it was almost calm, no sun to be seen, and some of us shivering +with cold. Course since yesterday W by N; distance 89 miles; latitude, +by account, 14 deg. 33' S; longitude made 13 deg. 9' W. The direction of my +course is to pass to the northward of the New Hebrides. + +[Sidenote: Wednesday 13.] + +Wednesday, May the 13th. Very squally weather, wind southerly. As I saw +no prospect of getting our cloaths dried, I recommended it to every one +to strip, and wring them through the salt water, by which means they +received a warmth, that, while wet with rain, they could not have, and +we were less liable to suffer from colds or rheumatic complaints. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 13.] + +In the afternoon we saw a kind of fruit on the water, which Mr. Nelson +knew to be the Barringtonia of Forster, and, as I saw the same again in +the morning, and some men of war birds, I was led to believe we were not +far from land. + +We continued constantly shipping seas, and baling, and were very wet and +cold in the night; but I could not afford the allowance of rum at +day-break. The twenty-fifth of a pound of bread, and water I served as +usual. At noon I had a sight of the sun, latitude 14 deg. 17' S; course W by +N 79 miles; longitude made 14 deg. 28' W. + +[Sidenote: Thursday 14.] + +Thursday, May the 14th. Fresh breezes and cloudy weather, wind +southerly. Constantly shipping water, and very wet, suffering much cold +and shiverings in the night. Served the usual allowance of bread and +water, three times a day. + +At six in the morning, we saw land, from S W by S eight leagues, to N W +by W 3/4 W six leagues, which I soon after found to be four islands, all +of them high and remarkable. At noon discovered a rocky island N W by N +four leagues, and another island W eight leagues, so that the whole were +six in number; the four I had first seen bearing from S 1/2 E to S W by +S; our distance three leagues from the nearest island. My latitude +observed was 13 deg. 29' S, and longitude, by account, from Tofoa, 15 deg. 49' +W; course since yesterday noon N 63 deg. W; distance 89 miles. + +[Sidenote: Friday 15.] + +Friday, May the 15th. Fresh gales at S E, and gloomy weather with rain, +and a very high sea; two people constantly employed baling. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 15.] + +At four in the afternoon I passed the westernmost island. At one in the +morning I discovered another, bearing W N W, five leagues distance, and +at eight o'clock I saw it for the last time, bearing N E seven leagues. +A number of gannets, boobies, and men of war birds were seen. + +These islands lie between the latitude of 13 deg. 16' S and 14 deg. 10' S: their +longitude, according to my reckoning, 15 deg. 51' to 17 deg. 6' W from the +island Tofoa[*]. The largest island may be twenty leagues in circuit, +the others five or six. The easternmost is the smallest island, and most +remarkable, having a high sugar-loaf hill. + +[*] By making a proportional allowance for the error afterwards found in +the dead reckoning, I estimate the longitude of these islands to be from +167 deg. 17' E to 168 deg. 34' E from Greenwich. + +The sight of these islands served but to increase the misery of our +situation. We were very little better than starving, with plenty in +view; yet to attempt procuring any relief was attended with so much +danger, that prolonging of life, even in the midst of misery, was +thought preferable, while there remained hopes of being able to surmount +our hardships. For my own part, I consider the general run of cloudy and +wet weather to be a blessing of Providence. Hot weather would have +caused us to have died with thirst; and perhaps being so constantly +covered with rain or sea protected us from that dreadful calamity. + +As I had nothing to assist my memory, I could not determine whether +these islands were a part of the New Hebrides or not: I believed them +perfectly a new discovery, which I have since found to be the case; but, +though they were not seen either by Monsieur Bougainville or Captain +Cook, they are so nearly in the neighbourhood of the New Hebrides, that +they must be considered as part of the same group. They are fertile, and +inhabited, as I saw smoke in several places. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 16.] + +[Sidenote: Saturday 16.] + +Saturday, May the 16th. Fresh gales from the S E, and rainy weather. The +night was very dark, not a star to be seen to steer by, and the sea +breaking constantly over us. I found it necessary to act as much as +possible against the southerly winds, to prevent being driven too near +New Guinea; for in general we were forced to keep so much before the +sea, that if we had not, at intervals of moderate weather, steered a +more southerly course, we should inevitably, from a continuance of the +gales, have been thrown in sight of that coast: in which case there +would most probably have been an end to our voyage. + +In addition to our miserable allowance of one 25th of a pound of bread, +and a quarter of a pint of water, I issued for dinner about an ounce of +salt pork to each person. I was often solicited for this pork, but I +considered it better to give it in small quantities than to use all at +once or twice, which would have been done if I had allowed it. + +At noon I observed, in 13 deg. 33' S; longitude made from Tofoa, 19 deg. 27' W; +course N 82 deg. W; distance 101 miles. The sun gave us hopes of drying our +wet cloaths. + +[Sidenote: Sunday 17.] + +Sunday, May the 17th. The sunshine was but of short duration. We had +strong breezes at S E by S, and dark gloomy weather, with storms of +thunder, lightning, and rain. The night was truly horrible, and not a +star to be seen; so that our steerage was uncertain. At dawn of day I +found every person complaining, and some of them soliciting extra +allowance; but I positively refused it. Our situation was extremely +miserable; always wet, and suffering extreme cold in the night, without +the least shelter from the weather. Being constantly obliged to bale, to +keep the boat from filling, was, perhaps, not to be reckoned an evil, as +it gave us exercise. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 17.] + +The little rum I had was of great service to us; when our nights were +particularly distressing, I generally served a tea-spoonful or two to +each person: and it was always joyful tidings when they heard of my +intentions. + +At noon a water-spout was very near on board of us. I issued an ounce of +pork, in addition to the allowance of bread and water; but before we +began to eat, every person stript and wrung their cloaths through the +sea-water, which we found warm and refreshing. Course since yesterday +noon W S W; distance 100 miles; latitude, by account, 14 deg. 11' S, and +longitude made 21 deg. 3' W. + +[Sidenote: Monday 18.] + +Monday, May the 18th. Fresh gales with rain, and a dark dismal night, +wind S E; the sea constantly breaking over us, and nothing but the wind +and sea to direct our steerage. I now fully determined to make New +Holland, to the southward of Endeavour straits, sensible that it was +necessary to preserve such a situation as would make a southerly wind a +fair one; that I might range the reefs until an opening should be found +into smooth water, and we the sooner be able to pick up some +refreshments. + +In the morning the rain abated, when we stripped, and wrung our cloaths +through the sea-water, as usual, which refreshed us wonderfully. Every +person complained of violent pain in their bones: I was only surprised +that no one was yet laid up. Served one 25th of a pound of bread, and a +quarter of a pint of water, at supper, breakfast, and dinner, as +customary. + +At noon I deduced my situation, by account, for we had no glimpse of the +sun, to be in latitude 14 deg. 52' S; course since yesterday noon W S W 106 +miles; longitude made from Tofoa 22 deg. 45' W. Saw many boobies and +noddies, a sign of being in the neighbourhood of land. + +[Sidenote: 1789. May 19. Tuesday 19.] + +Tuesday, May the 19th. Fresh gales at E N E, with heavy rain, and dark +gloomy weather, and no sight of the sun. We past this day miserably wet +and cold, covered with rain and sea, from which we had no relief, but at +intervals by pulling off our cloaths and wringing them through the sea +water. In the night we had very severe lightning, but otherwise it was +so dark that we could not see each other. The morning produced many +complaints on the severity of the weather, and I would gladly have +issued my allowance of rum, if it had not appeared to me that we were to +suffer much more, and that it was necessary to preserve the little I +had, to give relief at a time we might be less able to bear such +hardships; but, to make up for it, I served out about half an ounce of +pork to each person, with the common allowance of bread and water, for +dinner. All night and day we were obliged to bale without intermission. + +At noon it was very bad weather and constant rain; latitude, by account, +14 deg. 37' S; course since yesterday N 81 deg. W; distance 100 miles; longitude +made 24 deg. 30' W. + +[Sidenote: Wednesday 20.] + +Wednesday, May the 20th. Fresh breezes E N E with constant rain; at +times a deluge. Always baling. + +[Sidenote: 1789. May 20.] + +At dawn of day, some of my people seemed half dead: our appearances were +horrible; and I could look no way, but I caught the eye of some one in +distress. Extreme hunger was now too evident, but no one suffered from +thirst, nor had we much inclination to drink, that desire, perhaps, +being satisfied through the skin. The little sleep we got was in the +midst of water, and we constantly awoke with severe cramps and pains in +our bones. This morning I served about two tea-spoonfuls of rum to each +person, and the allowance of bread and water, as usual. At noon the sun +broke out, and revived every one. I found we were in latitude 14 deg. 49' +S; longitude made 25 deg. 46' W; course S 88 deg. W; distance 75 miles. + +[Sidenote: Thursday 21.] + +Thursday, May the 21st. Fresh gales, and heavy showers of rain. Wind E N +E. + +Our distresses were now very great, and we were so covered with rain and +salt water, that we could scarcely see. Sleep, though we longed for it, +afforded no comfort: for my own part, I almost lived without it: we +suffered extreme cold, and every one dreaded the approach of night. +About two o'clock in the morning we were overwhelmed with a deluge of +rain. It fell so heavy that we were afraid it would fill the boat, and +were obliged to bale with all our might. At dawn of day, I served a +large allowance of rum. Towards noon the rain abated and the sun shone, +but we were miserably cold and wet, the sea breaking so constantly over +us, that, notwithstanding the heavy rain, we had not been able to add to +our stock of fresh water. The usual allowance of one 25th of a pound of +bread and water was served at evening, morning, and noon. Latitude, by +observation, 14 deg. 29' S, and longitude made, by account, from Tofoa, 27 deg. +25' W; course, since yesterday noon, N 78 deg. W, 99 miles. I now considered +myself on a meridian with the east part of New Guinea, and about 65 +leagues distant from the coast of New Holland. + +[Sidenote: Friday 22.] + +Friday, May the 22nd. Strong gales from E S E to S S E, a high sea, and +dark dismal night. + +Our situation this day was extremely calamitous. We were obliged to take +the course of the sea, running right before it, and watching with the +utmost care, as the least error in the helm would in a moment have been +our destruction. The sea was continually breaking all over us; but, as +we suffered not such cold as when wet with the rain, I only served the +common allowance of bread and water. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 22.] + +At noon it blew very hard, and the foam of the sea kept running over our +stern and quarters; I however got propped up, and made an observation of +the latitude, in 14 deg. 17' S; course N 85 deg. W; distance 130 miles; +longitude made 29 deg. 38' west. + +[Sidenote: Saturday 23.] + +Saturday, May the 23d. Strong gales with very hard squalls, and rain; +wind S E, and S S E. + +The misery we suffered this day exceeded the preceding. The night was +dreadful. The sea flew over us with great force, and kept us baling with +horror and anxiety. At dawn of day I found every one in a most +distressed condition, and I now began to fear that another such a night +would put an end to the lives of several who seemed no longer able to +support such sufferings. Every one complained of severe pains in their +bones; but these were alleviated, in some degree, by an allowance of two +tea-spoonfuls of rum; after drinking which, having wrung our cloaths, +and taken our breakfast of bread and water, we became a little +refreshed. + +Towards noon it became fair weather; but with very little abatement of +the gale, and the sea remained equally high. With great difficulty I +observed the latitude to be 13 deg. 44' S; course N 74 deg. W; distance 116 +miles since yesterday; longitude made 31 deg. 32' W from Tofoa. + +[Sidenote: Sunday 24.] + +Sunday, May the 24th. Fresh gales and fine weather; wind S S E and S. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 24.] + +Towards the evening the weather looked much better, which rejoiced all +hands, so that they eat their scanty allowance with more satisfaction +than for some time past. The night also was fair; but, being always wet +with the sea, we suffered much from the cold. A fine morning, I had the +pleasure to see, produce some chearful countenances. Towards noon the +weather improved, and, the first time for 15 days past, we found a +little warmth from the sun. We stripped, and hung our cloaths up to dry, +which were by this time become so thread-bare, that they would not keep +out either wet or cold. + +At noon I observed in latitude 13 deg. 33' S; longitude, by account, from +Tofoa 33 deg. 28' W; course N 84 deg. W; distance 114 miles. With the usual +allowance of bread and water for dinner, I served an ounce of pork to +each person. + +[Sidenote: Monday 25.] + +Monday, May the 25th. Fresh gales and fair weather. Wind S S E. + +This afternoon we had many birds about us, which are never seen far from +land, such as boobies and noddies. + +[Sidenote: Allowance lessened.] + +About three o'clock the sea began to run fair, and we shipped but little +water, I therefore determined to know the exact quantity of bread I had +left; and on examining found, according to my present issues, sufficient +for 29 days allowance. In the course of this time I hoped to be at +Timor; but, as that was very uncertain, and perhaps after all we might +be obliged to go to Java, I determined to proportion my issues to six +weeks. I was apprehensive that this would be ill received, and that it +would require my utmost resolution to enforce it; for, small as the +quantity was which I intended to take away, for our future good, yet it +might appear to my people like robbing them of life, and some, who were +less patient than their companions, I expected would very ill brook it. +I however represented it so essentially necessary to guard against +delays in our voyage by contrary winds, or other causes, promising to +enlarge upon the allowance as we got on, that it was readily agreed to. +I therefore fixed, that every person should receive one 25th of a pound +of bread for breakfast, and one 25th of a pound for dinner; so that by +omitting the proportion for supper, I had 43 days allowance. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 25.] + +At noon some noddies came so near to us, that one of them was caught by +hand. This bird is about the size of a small pigeon. I divided it, with +its entrails, into 18 portions, and by the method of, Who shall have +this[*]? it was distributed with the allowance of bread and water for +dinner, and eat up bones and all, with salt water for sauce. I observed +the latitude 13 deg. 32' S; longitude made 35 deg. 19' W; and course N 89 deg. W; +distance 108 miles. + +[*] One person turns his back on the object that is to be divided: +another then points separately to the portions, at each of them asking +aloud, "Who shall have this?" to which the first answers by naming +somebody. This impartial method of division gives every man an equal +chance of the best share. + +[Sidenote: Tuesday 26.] + +Tuesday, May the 26th. Fresh gales at S S E, and fine weather. + +In the evening we saw several boobies flying so near to us, that we +caught one of them by hand. This bird is as large as a good duck; like +the noddy, it has received its name from seamen, for suffering itself to +be caught on the masts and yards of ships. They are the most presumptive +proofs of being in the neighbourhood of land of any sea-fowl we are +acquainted with. I directed the bird to be killed for supper, and the +blood to be given to three of the people who were the most distressed +for want of food. The body, with the entrails, beak, and feet, I divided +into 18 shares, and with an allowance of bread, which I made a merit of +granting, we made a good supper, compared with our usual fare. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 26.] + +In the morning we caught another booby, so that Providence seemed to be +relieving our wants in a very extraordinary manner. Towards noon we +passed a great many pieces of the branches of trees, some of which +appeared to have been no long time in the water. I had a good +observation for the latitude, and found my situation to be in 13 deg. 41' +S; my longitude, by account, from Tofoa, 37 deg. 13' W; course S 85 deg. W, 112 +miles. Every person was now overjoyed at the addition to their dinner, +which I distributed as I had done in the evening; giving the blood to +those who were the most in want of food. + +To make our bread a little savoury we frequently dipped it in salt +water; but for my own part I generally broke mine into small pieces, and +eat it in my allowance of water, out of a cocoa-nut shell, with a spoon, +economically avoiding to take too large a piece at a time, so that I was +as long at dinner as if it had been a much more plentiful meal. + +[Sidenote: Wednesday 27.] + +Wednesday, May the 27th. Fresh breezes south-easterly, and fine weather. + +The weather was now serene, but unhappily we found ourselves unable to +bear the sun's heat; many of us suffering a languor and faintness, which +made life indifferent. We were, however, so fortunate as to catch two +boobies to-day; their stomachs contained several flying-fish and small +cuttlefish, all of which I saved to be divided for dinner. + +We passed much drift wood, and saw many birds; I therefore did not +hesitate to pronounce that we were near the reefs of New Holland, and +assured every one I would make the coast without delay, in the parallel +we were in, and range the reef till I found an opening, through which we +might get into smooth water, and pick up some supplies. From my +recollection of captain Cook's survey of this coast, I considered the +direction of it to be N W, and I was therefore satisfied that, with the +wind to the southward of E, I could always clear any dangers. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 27.] + +At noon I observed in latitude 13 deg. 26' S; course since yesterday N 82 deg. +W; distance 109 miles; longitude made 39 deg. 4' W. After writing my +account, I divided the two birds with their entrails, and the contents +of their maws, into 18 portions, and, as the prize was a very valuable +one, it was divided as before, by calling out Who shall have this? so +that to-day, with the allowance of a 25th of a pound of bread at +breakfast, and another at dinner, with the proportion of water, I was +happy to see that every person thought he had feasted. + +[Sidenote: Thursday 28.] + +Thursday, May the 28th. Fresh breezes and fair weather; wind E S E and +E. + +In the evening we saw a gannet; and the clouds remained so fixed in the +west, that I had little doubt of our being near to New Holland; and +every person, after taking his allowance of water for supper, began to +divert himself with conversing on the probability of what we should +find. + +At one in the morning the person at the helm heard the sound of +breakers, and I no sooner lifted up my head, than I saw them close under +our lee, not more than a quarter of a mile distant from us. I +immediately hauled on a wind to the N N E, and in ten minutes time we +could neither see nor hear them. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 28.] + +I have already mentioned my reason for making New Holland so far to the +southward; for I never doubted of numerous openings in the reef, through +which I could have access to the shore: and, knowing the inclination of +the coast to be to the N W, and the wind mostly to the southward of E, I +could with ease range such a barrier of reefs till I should find a +passage, which now became absolutely necessary, without a moment's loss +of time. The idea of getting into smooth water, and finding +refreshments, kept my people's spirits up: their joy was very great +after we had got clear of the breakers, to which we had been much +nearer than I thought was possible to be before we saw them. + +In the morning, at day-light, I bore away again for the reefs, and saw +them by nine o'clock. The sea broke furiously over every part, and I had +no sooner got near to them, than the wind came at E, so that we could +only lie along the line of the breakers, within which we saw the water +so smooth, that every person already anticipated the heart-felt +satisfaction he would receive, as soon as we could get within them. But +I now found we were embayed, for I could not lie clear with my sails, +the wind having backed against us, and the sea set in so heavy towards +the reef that our situation was become dangerous. We could effect but +little with the oars, having scarce strength to pull them; and it was +becoming every minute more and more probable that we should be obliged +to attempt pushing over the reef, in case we could not pull off. Even +this I did not despair of effecting with success, when happily we +discovered a break in the reef, about one mile from us, and at the same +time an island of a moderate height within it, nearly in the same +direction, bearing W 1/2 N. I entered the passage with a strong stream +running to the westward; and found it about a quarter of a mile broad, +with every appearance of deep water. + +On the outside, the reef inclined to the N E for a few miles, and from +thence to the N W; on the south side of the entrance, it inclined to the +S S W as far as I could see it; and I conjecture that a similar passage +to this which we now entered, may be found near the breakers that I +first discovered, which are 23 miles S of this channel. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 28.] + +I did not recollect what latitude Providential channel[*] lies in, but +I considered it to be within a few miles of this, which is situate in +12 deg. 51' S latitude. + +[*] Providential Channel is in 12 deg. 34' S, longitude 143 deg. 33' E. + +Being now happily within the reefs, and in smooth water, I endeavoured +to keep near them to try for fish; but the tide set us to the N W; I +therefore bore away in that direction, and, having promised to land on +the first convenient spot we could find, all our past hardships seemed +already to be forgotten. + +At noon I had a good observation, by which our latitude was 12 deg. 46' S, +whence the foregoing situations may be considered as determined with +some exactness. The island first seen bore W S W five leagues. This, +which I have called the island Direction, will in fair weather always +shew the channel, from which it bears due W, and may be seen as soon as +the reefs, from a ship's mast-head: it lies in the latitude of 12 deg. 51' +S. These, however, are marks too small for a ship to hit, unless it can +hereafter be ascertained that passages through the reef are numerous +along the coast, which I am inclined to think they are, and then there +would be little risk if the wind was not directly on the shore. + +My longitude, made by dead reckoning, from the island Tofoa to our +passage through the reef, is 40 deg. 10' W. Providential channel, I imagine, +must lie very nearly under the same meridian with our passage; by which +it appears we had out-run our reckoning 1 deg. 9'. + +We now returned God thanks for his gracious protection, and with much +content took our miserable allowance of a 25th of a pound of bread, and +a quarter of a pint of water, for dinner. + +[Sidenote: Friday 29.] + +Friday, May the 29th. Moderate breezes and fine weather, wind E S E. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 29.] + +As we advanced within the reefs, the coast began to shew itself very +distinctly, with a variety of high and low land; some parts of which +were covered with wood. In our way towards the shore we fell in with a +point of a reef, which is connected with that towards the sea, and here +I came to a grapnel, and tried to catch fish, but had no success. The +island Direction now bore S three or four leagues. Two islands lay about +four miles to the W by N, and appeared eligible for a resting-place, if +nothing more; but on my approach to the first I found it only a heap of +stones, and its size too inconsiderable to shelter the boat. I therefore +proceeded to the next, which was close to it and towards the main, +where, on the N W side, I found a bay and a fine sandy point to land at. +Our distance was about a quarter of a mile from a projecting part of the +main, bearing from S W by S, to N N W 3/4 W. I now landed to examine if +there were any signs of the natives being near us; but though I +discovered some old fire-places, I saw nothing to alarm me for our +situation during the night. Every one was anxious to find something to +eat, and I soon heard that there were oysters on the rocks, for the tide +was out; but it was nearly dark, and only a few could be gathered. I +determined therefore to wait till the morning, to know how to proceed, +and I consented that one half of us should sleep on shore, and the other +in the boat. We would gladly have made a fire, but, as we could not +accomplish it, we took our rest for the night, which happily was calm +and undisturbed. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 29.] + +The dawn of day brought greater strength and spirits to us than I +expected; for, notwithstanding every one was very weak, there appeared +strength sufficient remaining to make me conceive the most favourable +hopes of our being able to surmount the difficulties we might yet have +to encounter. + +As soon as I saw that there were not any natives immediately near us, I +sent out parties in search of supplies, while others were putting the +boat in order, that I might be ready to go to sea in case any unforeseen +cause might make it necessary. The first object of this work, that +demanded our attention, was the rudder: one of the gudgeons had come +out, in the course of the night, and was lost. This, if it had happened +at sea, would probably have been the cause of our perishing, as the +management of the boat could not have been so nicely preserved as these +very heavy seas required. I had often expressed my fears of this +accident, and, that we might be prepared for it, had taken the +precaution to have grummets fixed on each quarter of the boat for oars; +but even our utmost readiness in using them, I fear, would not have +saved us. It appears, therefore, a providential circumstance, that it +happened at this place, and was in our power to remedy the defect; for +by great good luck we found a large staple in the boat that answered the +purpose. + +The parties were now returned, highly rejoiced at having found plenty of +oysters and fresh water. I also had made a fire, by help of a small +magnifying glass, that I always carried about me, to read off the +divisions of my sextants; and, what was still more fortunate, among the +few things which had been thrown into the boat and saved, was a piece of +brimstone and a tinder-box, so that I secured fire for the future. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 29.] + +One of my people had been so provident as to bring away with him a +copper pot: it was by being in possession of this article that I was +enabled to make a proper use of the supply we found, for, with a +mixture of bread and a little pork, I made a stew that might have been +relished by people of more delicate appetites, of which each person +received a full pint. + +The general complaints of disease among us, were a dizziness in the +head, great weakness of the joints, and violent tenesmus, most of us +having had no evacuation by stool since we left the ship. I had +constantly a severe pain at my stomach; but none of our complaints were +alarming; on the contrary, every one retained marks of strength, that, +with a mind possessed of any fortitude, could bear more fatigue than I +hoped we had to undergo in our voyage to Timor. + +As I would not allow the people to expose themselves to the heat of the +sun, it being near noon, every one took his allotment of earth, shaded +by the bushes, for a short sleep. + +The oysters we found grew so fast to the rocks that it was with +difficulty they could be broke off, and at last we discovered it to be +the most expeditious way to open them where they were found. They were +very sizeable, and well tasted, and gave us great relief. To add to this +happy circumstance, in the hollow of the land there grew some wire +grass, which indicated a moist situation. On forcing a stick, about +three feet long, into the ground, we found water, and with little +trouble dug a well, which produced as much as we were in need of. It was +very good, but I could not determine if it was a spring or not. Our +wants made it not necessary to make the well deep, for it flowed as fast +as we emptied it; which, as the soil was apparently too loose to retain +water from the rains, renders it probable to be a spring. It lies about +200 yards to the S E of a point in the S W part of the island. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 29.] + +I found evident signs of the natives resorting to this island; for, +besides fire-places, I saw two miserable wigwams, having only one side +loosely covered. We found a pointed stick, about three feet long, with a +slit in the end of it, to sling stones with, the same as the natives of +Van Diemen's land use. + +The track of some animal was very discernible, and Mr. Nelson agreed +with me that it was the Kanguroo; but how these animals can get from the +main I know not, unless brought over by the natives to breed, that they +may take them with more ease, and render a supply of food certain to +them; as on the continent the catching of them may be precarious, or +attended with great trouble, in so large an extent of country. + +The island may be about two miles in circuit; it is a high lump of rocks +and stones covered with wood; but the trees are small, the soil, which +is very indifferent and sandy, being barely sufficient to produce them. +The trees that came within our knowledge were the manchineal and a +species of purow: also some palm-trees, the tops of which we cut down, +and the soft interior part or heart of them was so palatable that it +made a good addition to our mess. Mr. Nelson discovered some fern-roots, +which I thought might be good roasted, as a substitute for bread, but it +proved a very poor one: it however was very good in its natural state to +allay thirst, and on that account I directed a quantity to be collected +to take into the boat. Many pieces of cocoa-nut shells and husk were +found about the shore, but we could find no cocoa-nut trees, neither did +I see any like them on the main. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 29.] + +I had cautioned every one not to touch any kind of berry or fruit that +they might find; yet they were no sooner out of my sight than they +began to make free with three different kinds, that grew all over the +island, eating without any reserve. The symptoms of having eaten too +much, began at last to frighten same of them; but on questioning others, +who had taken a more moderate allowance, their minds were a little +quieted. The others, however, became equally alarmed in their turn, +dreading that such symptoms would come on, and that they were all +poisoned, so that they regarded each other with the strongest marks of +apprehension, uncertain what would be the issue of their imprudence. +Happily the fruit proved wholesome and good. One sort grew on a small +delicate kind of vine; they were the size of a large gooseberry, and +very like in substance, but had only a sweet taste; the skin was a pale +red, streaked with yellow the long way of the fruit: it was pleasant and +agreeable. Another kind grew on bushes, like that which is called the +sea-side grape in the West Indies; but the fruit was very different, and +more like elder-berries, growing in clusters in the same manner. The +third sort was a black berry, not in such plenty as the others, and +resembled a bullace, or large kind of sloe, both in size and taste. +Seeing these fruits eaten by the birds made me consider them fit for +use, and those who had already tried the experiment, not finding any bad +effect, made it a certainty that we might eat of them without danger. + +Wild pigeons, parrots, and other birds, were about the summit of the +island, but, as I had no fire-arms, relief of that kind was not to be +expected, unless I met with some unfrequented spot where we might take +them with our hands. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 29.] + +On the south side of the island, and about half a mile from the well, a +small run of water was found; but, as its source was not traced, I know +nothing more of it. + +The shore of this island is very rocky, except the part we landed at, +and here I picked up many pieces of pumice-stone. On the part of the +main next to us were several sandy bays, but at low-water they became an +extensive rocky flat. The country had rather a barren appearance, except +in a few places where it was covered with wood. A remarkable range of +rocks lay a few miles to the S W, or a high peaked hill terminated the +coast towards the sea, with other high lands and islands to the +southward. A high fair cape showed the direction of the coast to the N +W, about seven leagues, and two small isles lay three or four leagues to +the northward. + +I saw a few bees or wasps, several lizards, and the blackberry bushes +were full of ants nests, webbed as a spider's, but so close and compact +as not to admit the rain. + +A trunk of a tree, about 50 feet long, lay on the beach; from whence I +conclude a heavy sea runs in here with the northerly winds. + +This being the day of the restoration of king Charles the Second, and +the name not being inapplicable to our present situation (for we were +restored to fresh life and strength), I named this Restoration Island; +for I thought it probable that captain Cook might not have taken notice +of it. The other names I have presumed to give the different parts of +the coast, will be only to show my route a little more distinctly. + +At noon I found the latitude of the island to be 12 deg. 39' S; our course +having been N 66 deg. W; distance 18 miles from yesterday noon. + +[Sidenote: Saturday 30.] + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 30.] + +Saturday, May the 30th. Very fine weather, and E S E winds. This +afternoon I sent parties out again to gather oysters, with which and +some of the inner part of the palm-top, we made another good stew for +supper, each person receiving a full pint and a half; but I refused +bread to this meal, for I considered our wants might yet be very great, +and as such I represented the necessity of saving our principal support +whenever it was in our power. + +At night we again divided, and one half of us slept on shore by a good +fire. In the morning I discovered a visible alteration in every one for +the better, and I sent them away again to gather oysters. I had now only +two pounds of pork left. This article, which I could not keep under lock +and key as I did the bread, had been pilfered by some inconsiderate +person, but every one most solemnly denied it; I therefore resolved to +put it out of their power for the future, by sharing what remained for +our dinner. While the party was out getting oysters, I got the boat in +readiness for sea, and filled all our water vessels, which amounted to +nearly 60 gallons. + +The party being returned, dinner was soon ready, and every one had as +good an allowance as they had for supper; for with the pork I gave an +allowance of bread; as I was determined forthwith to push on. As it was +not yet noon, I told every one that an exertion should be made to gather +as many oysters as possible for a sea store, as I was determined to sail +in the afternoon. + +At noon I again observed the latitude 12 deg. 39' S; it was then high-water, +the tide had risen three feet, but I could not be certain which way the +flood came from. I deduce the time of high-water at full and change to +be ten minutes past seven in the morning. + +[Sidenote: Sunday 31.] + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 31.] + +Sunday, May the 31st. Early in the afternoon, the people returned with +the few oysters they had time to pick up, and every thing was put into +the boat. I then examined the quantity of bread remaining, and found 38 +days allowance, according to the last mode of issuing a 25th of a pound +at breakfast and at dinner. + +Fair weather, and moderate breezes at E S E and S E. + +Being all ready for sea, I directed every person to attend prayers, and +by four o'clock we were preparing to embark; when twenty natives +appeared, running and holloaing to us, on the opposite shore. They were +armed with a spear or lance, and a short weapon which they carried in +their left hand: they made signs for us to come to them. On the top of +the hills we saw the heads of many more; whether these were their wives +and children, or others who waited for our landing, until which they +meant not to show themselves, lest we might be intimidated, I cannot +say; but, as I found we were discovered to be on the coast, I thought it +prudent to make the best of my way, for fear of canoes; though, from the +accounts of captain Cook, the chance was that there were very few or +none of any consequence. I passed these people as near as I could, which +was within a quarter of a mile; they were naked, and apparently black, +and their hair or wool bushy and short. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 31.] + +I directed my course within two small islands that lie to the north of +Restoration Island, passing between them and the main land, towards Fair +Cape, with a strong tide in my favour; so that I was abreast of it by +eight o'clock. The coast I had passed was high and woody. As I could see +no land without Fair Cape, I concluded that the coast inclined to the N +W and W N W, which was agreeable to my recollection of captain Cook's +survey. I therefore steered more towards the W; but by eleven o'clock at +night I found myself mistaken: for we met with low land, which inclined +to the N E; so that at three o'clock in the morning I found we were +embayed, which obliged us to stand back to the southward. + +At day-break I was exceedingly surprised to find the appearance of the +country all changed, as if in the course of the night I had been +transported to another part of the world; for we had now a miserable low +sandy coast in view, with very little verdure, or any thing to indicate +that it was at all habitable to a human being, if I except some patches +of small trees or brush-wood. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 31.] + +I had many small islands in view to the N E, about six miles distant. +The E part of the main bore N four miles, and Fair Cape S S E five or +six leagues. I took the channel between the nearest island and the main +land, about one mile apart, leaving all the islands on the starboard +side. Some of these were very pretty spots, covered with wood, and well +situated for fishing; large shoals of fish were about us, but we could +not catch any. As I was passing this strait we saw another party of +Indians, seven in number, running towards us, shouting and making signs +for us to land. Some of them waved green branches of the bushes which +were near them, as a sign of friendship; but there were some of their +other motions less friendly. A larger party we saw a little farther off, +and coming towards us. I therefore determined not to land, though I +wished much to have had some intercourse with these people; for which +purpose I beckoned to them to come near to me, and laid the boat close +to the rocks; but not one would come within 200 yards of us. They were +armed in the same manner as those I had seen from Restoration Island, +were stark naked, and appeared to be jet black, with short bushy hair +or wool, and in every respect the same people. An island of good height +now bore N 1/2 W, four miles from us, at which I resolved to see what +could be got, and from thence to take a look at the coast. At this isle +I landed about eight o'clock in the morning. The shore was rocky, with +some sandy beaches within the rocks: the water, however, was smooth, and +I landed without difficulty. I sent two parties out, one to the +northward, and the other to the southward, to seek for supplies, and +others I ordered to stay by the boat. On this occasion their fatigue and +weakness so far got the better of their sense of duty, that some of them +began to mutter who had done most, and declared they would rather be +without their dinner than go in search of it. One person, in particular, +went so far as to tell me, with a mutinous look, he was as good a man as +myself. It was not possible for me to judge where this might have an +end, if not stopped in time; I therefore determined to strike a final +blow at it, and either to preserve my command, or die in the attempt: +and, seizing a cutlass, I ordered him to take hold of another and defend +himself; on which he called out I was going to kill him, and began to +make concessions. I did not allow this to interfere further with the +harmony of the boat's crew, and every thing soon became quiet. + +The parties continued collecting what could be found, which consisted of +some fine oysters and clams, and a few small dog-fish that were caught +in the holes of the rocks. We also found about two tons of rain-water in +the hollow of the rocks, on the north part of the island, so that of +this essential article we were again so happy as not to be in want. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 31.] + +After regulating the mode of proceeding, I set off for the highest part +of the island, to see and consider of my route for the night. To my +surprise I could see no more of the main than I did from below, it +extending only from S 1/2 E, four miles, to W by N, about three leagues, +full of sand-hills. Besides the isles to the E S E and south, that I had +seen before, I could only discover a small key N W by N. As this was +considerably farther from the main than where I was at present, I +resolved to get there by night, it being a more secure resting-place; +for I was here open to an attack, if the Indians had canoes, as they +undoubtedly observed my landing. My mind being made up on this point, I +returned, taking a particular look at the spot I was on, which I found +only to produce a few bushes and coarse grass, and the extent of the +whole not two miles in circuit. On the north side, in a sandy bay, I saw +an old canoe, about 33 feet long, lying bottom upwards, and half buried +in the beach. It was made of three pieces, the bottom entire, to which +the sides were sewed in the common way. It had a sharp projecting prow +rudely carved, in resemblance of the head of a fish; the extreme breadth +was about three feet, and I imagine it was capable of carrying 20 men. + +At noon the parties were all returned, but had found difficulty in +gathering the oysters, from their close adherence to the rocks, and the +clams were scarce: I therefore saw, that it would be of little use to +remain longer in this place, as we should not be able to collect more +than we could eat; nor could any tolerable sea-store be expected, unless +we fell in with a greater plenty. I named this Sunday Island: it lies N +by W 3/4 W from Restoration Island; the latitude, by a good observation, +11 deg. 58' S. + +[Sidenote: JUNE. Monday 1.] + +Monday, June the 1st. Fresh breezes and fair weather, ending with a +fresh gale. Wind S E by S. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 1.] + +At two o'clock in the afternoon, we dined; each person having a full +pint and a half of stewed oysters and clams, thickened with small beans, +which Mr. Nelson informed us were a species of Dolichos. Having eaten +heartily, and taken the water we were in want of, I only waited to +determine the time of high-water, which I found to be at three o'clock, +and the rise of the tide about five feet. According to this it is +high-water on the full and change at 19 minutes past 9 in the morning; +but here I observed the flood to come from the southward, though at +Restoration Island, I thought it came from the northward. I think +captain Cook mentions that he found great irregularity in the set of the +flood on this coast. + +I now sailed for the key which I had seen in the N W by N, giving the +name of Sunday Island to the place I left; we arrived just at dark, but +found it so surrounded by a reef of rocks, that I could not land without +danger of staving the boat; and on that account I came to a grapnel for +the night. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 1.] + +At dawn of day we got on shore, and tracked the boat into shelter; for +the wind blowing fresh without, and the ground being rocky, I was afraid +to trust her at a grapnel, lest she might be blown to sea: I was, +therefore, obliged to let her ground in the course of the ebb. From +appearances, I expected that if we remained till night we should meet +with turtle, as we had already discovered recent tracks of them. +Innumerable birds of the noddy kind made this island their +resting-place; so that I had reason to flatter myself with hopes of +getting supplies in greater abundance than it had hitherto been in my +power. The situation was at least four leagues distant from the main. We +were on the north-westernmost of four small keys, which were surrounded +by a reef of rocks connected by sand-banks, except between the two +northernmost; and there likewise it was dry at low water; the whole +forming a lagoon island, into which the tide flowed: at this entrance I +kept the boat. + +As usual, I sent parties away in search of supplies, but, to our great +disappointment, we could only get a few clams and some dolichos: with +these, and the oysters we had brought from Sunday Island, I made up a +mess for dinner, with an addition of a small quantity of bread. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 1.] + +Towards noon, Mr. Nelson, and his party, who had been to the easternmost +key, returned; but himself in such a weak condition, that he was obliged +to be supported by two men. His complaint was a violent heat in his +bowels, a loss of sight, much drought, and an inability to walk. This I +found was occasioned by his being unable to support the heat of the sun, +and that, when he was fatigued and faint, instead of retiring into the +shade to rest, he had continued to do more than his strength was equal +to. It was a great satisfaction to me to find, that he had no fever; and +it was now that the little wine, which I had so carefully saved became +of real use. I gave it in very small quantities, with some small pieces +of bread soaked in it; and, having pulled off his cloaths, and laid him +under some shady bushes, he began to recover. The boatswain and +carpenter also were ill, and complained of head-ach, and sickness of the +stomach; others, who had not had any evacuation by stool, became +shockingly distressed with the tenesmus; so that there were but few +without complaints. An idea now prevailed, that their illness was +occasioned by eating the dolichos, and some were so much alarmed that +they thought themselves poisoned. Myself, however, and some others, who +had eaten of them, were yet very well; but the truth was, that all those +who were complaining, except Mr. Nelson, had gorged themselves with a +large quantity of raw beans, and Mr. Nelson informed me, that they were +constantly teazing him, whenever a berry was found, to know if it was +good to eat; so that it would not have been surprizing if many of them +had been really poisoned. + +Our dinner was not so well relished as at Sunday Island, because we had +mixed the dolichos with our stew. The oysters and soup, however, were +eaten by every one, except Mr. Nelson, whom I fed with a few small +pieces of bread soaked in half a glass of wine, and he continued to +mend. + +In my walk round the island, I found several cocoa-nut shells, the +remains of an old wigwam, and the backs of two turtle, but no sign of +any quadruped. One of my people found three sea-fowl's eggs. + +As is common on such spots, the soil is little other than sand, yet it +produced small toa-trees, and some others, that we were not acquainted +with. There were fish in the lagoon, but we could not catch any. As our +wants, therefore, were not likely to be supplied here, not even with +water for our daily expence, I determined to sail in the morning, after +trying our success in the night for turtle and birds. A quiet night's +rest also, I conceived, would be of essential service to those who were +unwell. + +From the wigwam and turtle-shell being found, it is certain that the +natives sometimes resort to this place, and have canoes: but I did not +apprehend that we ran any risk by remaining here. I directed our fire, +however, to be made in the thicket, that we might not be discovered in +the night. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 1.] + +At noon, I observed the latitude of this island to be 11 deg. 47' S. The +main land extended towards the N W, and was full of white sand-hills: +another small island lay within us, bearing W by N 1/4 N, three leagues +distant. My situation being very low, I could see nothing of the reef +towards the sea. + +[Sidenote: Tuesday 2.] + +Tuesday, June the 2d. The first part of this day we had some light +showers of rain; the latter part was fair, wind from the S E, blowing +fresh. + +Rest was now so much wanted, that the afternoon was advantageously spent +in sleep. There were, however, a few not disposed to it, and those I +employed in dressing some clams to take with us for the next day's +dinner; others we cut up in slices to dry, which I knew was the most +valuable supply we could find here. But, contrary to our expectation, +they were very scarce. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 2.] + +Towards evening, I cautioned every one against making too large a fire, +or suffering it after dark to blaze up. Mr. Samuel and Mr. Peckover had +the superintendence of this business, while I was strolling about the +beach to observe if I thought it could be seen from the main. I was just +satisfied that it could not, when on a sudden the island appeared all in +a blaze, that might have been seen at a much more considerable distance. +I ran to learn the cause, and found it was occasioned by the imprudence +and obstinacy of one of the party, who, in my absence, had insisted on +having a fire to himself; in making which the flames caught the +neighbouring grass and rapidly spread. This misconduct might have +produced very serious consequences, by discovering our situation to the +natives; for, if they had attacked us, we must inevitably have fallen a +sacrifice, as we had neither arms nor strength to oppose an enemy. Thus +the relief which I expected from a little sleep was totally lost, and I +anxiously waited for the flowing of the tide, that we might proceed to +sea. + +I found it high-water at half past five this evening, whence I deduce +the time, on the full and change of the moon, to be 58' past 10 in the +morning: the rise is nearly five feet. I could not observe the set of +the flood; but imagine it comes from the southward, and that I have been +mistaken at Restoration Island, as I find the time of high-water +gradually later as we advance to the northward. + +At Restoration Island, high water, full and change, 7^h 10' +Sunday Island, 9 19 +Here, 10 58 + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 2.] + +After eight o'clock, Mr. Samuel and Mr. Peckover went out to watch for +turtle, and three men went to the east key to endeavour to catch birds. +All the others complaining of being sick, took their rest, except Mr. +Hayward and Mr. Elphinston, who I directed to keep watch. About midnight +the bird party returned, with only twelve noddies, a bird I have already +described to be about the size of a pigeon: but if it had not been for +the folly and obstinacy of one of the party, who separated from the +other two, and disturbed the birds, they might have caught a great +number. I was so much provoked at my plans being thus defeated, that I +gave the offender[*] a good beating. I now went in search of the +turtling party, who had taken great pains, but without success. This, +however, did not surprise me, as it was not to be expected that turtle +would come near us after the noise which was made at the beginning of +the evening in extinguishing the fire. I therefore desired them to come +back, but they requested to stay a little longer, as they still hoped to +find some before day-light: they, however, returned by three o'clock, +without any reward for their labour. + +[*] Robert Lamb.--This man, when he came to Java, acknowledged he had +eaten nine birds on the key, after he separated from the other two. + +The birds we half dressed, which, with a few clams, made the whole of +the supply procured here. I tied up a few gilt buttons and some pieces +of iron to a tree, for any of the natives that might come after us; and, +happily finding my invalids much better for their night's rest, I got +every one into the boat, and departed by dawn of day. Wind at S E; +course to the N by W. + +We had scarcely ran two leagues to the northward, when the sea suddenly +became rough, which not having experienced since we were within the +reefs, I concluded to be occasioned by an open channel to the ocean. +Soon afterwards we met with a large shoal, on which were two sandy keys; +between these and two others, four miles to the west, I passed on to the +northward, the sea still continuing to be rough. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 2.] + +Towards noon, I fell in with six other keys, most of which produced some +small trees and brush-wood. These formed a pleasing contrast with the +main land we had passed, which was full of sand-hills. The country +continued hilly, and the northernmost land, the same which we saw from +the lagoon island, appeared like downs, sloping towards the sea. To the +southward of this is a flat-topped hill, which, on account of its shape, +I called Pudding-pan hill, and a little to the northward two other +hills, which we called the Paps; and here was a small tract of country +without sand, the eastern part of which forms a cape, whence the coast +inclines to the N W by N. + +At noon I observed in the latitude of 11 deg. 18' S, the cape bearing W, +distant ten miles. Five small keys bore from N E to S E, the nearest of +them about two miles distant, and a low sandy key between us and the +cape bore W, distant four miles. My course from the Lagoon Island N 1/2 +W, distant 30 miles. + +I am sorry it was not in my power to obtain a sufficient knowledge of +the depth of water; for in our situation nothing could be undertaken +that might have occasioned delay. It may however be understood, that, to +the best of my judgment, from appearances, a ship may pass wherever I +have omitted to represent danger. + +I divided six birds, and issued one 25th of a pound of bread, with half +a pint of water, to each person for dinner, and I gave half a glass of +wine to Mr. Nelson, who was now so far recovered as to require no other +indulgence. + +The gunner, when he left the ship, brought his watch with him, by which +we had regulated our time till to-day, when unfortunately it stopped; so +that noon, sun-rise, and sun-set, are the only parts of the 24 hours of +which I can speak with certainty, as to time. + +[Sidenote: Wednesday 3.] + +Wednesday, June the 3d. Fresh gales S S E and S E, and fair weather. As +we stood to the N by W this afternoon, we found more sea, which I +attributed to our receiving less shelter from the reefs to the eastward: +it is probable they do not extend so far to the N as this; at least, it +may be concluded that there is not a continued barrier to prevent +shipping having access to the shore. I observed that the stream set to +the N W, which I considered to be the flood; in some places along the +coast, we saw patches of wood. At five o'clock, steering to the N W, we +passed a large and fair inlet, into which, I imagine, is a safe and +commodious entrance; it lies in latitude 11 deg. S: about three leagues to +the northward of this is an island, at which we arrived about sun-set, +and took shelter for the night under a sandy point, which was the only +part we could land at: I was therefore under the necessity to put up +with rather a wild situation, and slept in the boat. Nevertheless I sent +a party away to see what could be got, but they returned without any +success. They saw a great number of turtle bones and shells, where the +natives had been feasting, and their last visit seemed to be of late +date. The island was covered with wood, but in other respects a lump of +rocks. We lay at a grapnel until day-light, with a very fresh gale and +cloudy weather. The main bore from S E by S to N N W 1/2 W, three +leagues; and a mountainous island, with a flat top, N by W, four or five +leagues: several others were between it and the main. The spot we were +on, which I call Turtle Island; lies in latitude, by account, 10 deg. 52' S, +and 42 miles W from Restoration Island. Abreast of it the coast has the +appearance of a sandy desert, but improves about three leagues farther +to the northward, where it terminates in a point, near to which is a +number of small islands. I sailed between these islands, where I found +no bottom at twelve fathoms; the high mountainous island with a flat +top, and four rocks to the S E of it, that I call the Brothers, being on +my starboard hand. Soon after, an extensive opening appeared in the main +land, with a number of high islands in it. I called this the Bay of +Islands. We continued steering to the N W. Several islands and keys lay +to the northward. The most northerly island was mountainous, having on +it a very high round hill; and a smaller was remarkable for a single +peaked hill. + +The coast to the northward and westward of the Bay of Islands had a very +different appearance from that to the southward. It was high and woody, +with many islands close to it, and had a very broken appearance. Among +these islands are fine bays, and convenient places for shipping. The +northernmost I call Wednesday Island: to the N W of this we fell in with +a large reef, which I believe joins a number of keys that were in sight +from the N W to the E N E. We now stood to the S W half a league, when +it was noon, and I had a good observation of the latitude in 10 deg. 31' S. +Wednesday Island bore E by S five miles; the westernmost land S W two or +three leagues; the islands to the northward, from N W by W four or five +leagues, to N E six leagues; and the reef from W to N E, distant one +mile, I now assured every one that we should be clear of New Holland in +the afternoon. + +It is impossible for me to say how far this reef may extend. It may be a +continuation, or a detached part of the range of shoals that surround +the coast: but be that as it may, I consider the mountainous islands as +separate from the shoals; and have no doubt that near them may be found +good passages for ships. But I rather recommend to those who are to pass +this strait from the eastward, to take their direction from the coast of +New Guinea: yet, I likewise think that a ship coming from the southward, +will find a fair strait in the latitude of 10 deg. S. I much wished to have +ascertained this point; but in our distressful situation, any increase +of fatigue, or loss of time, might have been attended with the most +fatal consequences. I therefore determined to pass on without delay. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 3.] + +As an addition to our dinner of bread and water, I served to each person +six oysters. + +[Sidenote: Thursday 4.] + +Thursday, June the 4th. A fresh gale at S E, and fair weather. + +At two o'clock as we were steering to the S W, towards the westernmost +part of the land in sight, we fell in with some large sand-banks that +run off from the coast. We were therefore obliged to steer to the +northward again, and, having got round them, I directed my course to the +W. + +At four o'clock, the westernmost of the islands to the northward bore N +four leagues; Wednesday island E by N five leagues; and Shoal Cape S E by +E two leagues. A small island was now seen bearing W, at which I arrived +before dark, and found that it was only a rock, where boobies resort, +for which reason I called it Booby Island. A small key also lies close +to the W part of the coast, which I have called Shoal Cape. Here +terminated the rocks and shoals of the N part of New Holland, for, +except Booby Island, we could see no land to the westward of S, after +three o'clock this afternoon. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 4.] + +I find that Booby Island was seen by Captain Cook, and, by a remarkable +coincidence of ideas, received from him the same name; but I cannot with +certainty reconcile the situation of many parts of the coast that I have +seen, to his survey. I ascribe this to the very different form in which +land appears, when seen from the unequal heights of a ship and a boat. +The chart I have given, is by no means meant to supersede that made by +Captain Cook, who had better opportunities than I had, and was in every +respect properly provided for surveying. The intention of mine is +chiefly to render the narrative more intelligible, and to shew in what +manner the coast appeared to me from an open boat. I have little doubt +that the opening, which I named the Bay of Islands, is Endeavour +Straits; and that our track was to the northward of Prince of Wales's +Isles. Perhaps, by those who shall hereafter navigate these seas, more +advantage may be derived from the possession of both our charts, than +from either singly. + +At eight o'clock in the evening, we once more launched into the open +ocean. Miserable as our situation was in every respect, I was secretly +surprised to see that it did not appear to affect any one so strongly as +myself; on the contrary, it seemed as if they had embarked on a voyage +to Timor, in a vessel sufficiently calculated for safety and +convenience. So much confidence gave me great pleasure, and I may assert +that to this cause their preservation is chiefly to be attributed; for +if any one of them had despaired, he would most probably have died +before we reached New Holland. + +I now gave every one hopes that eight or ten days might bring us to a +land of safety; and, after praying to God for a continuance of his most +gracious protection, I served an allowance of water for supper, and kept +my course to the W S W, to counteract the southerly winds, in case they +should blow strong. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 4.] + +We had been just six days on the coast of New Holland, in the course of +which we found oysters, a few clams, some birds, and water. But perhaps +a benefit nearly equal to this we received from not having fatigue in +the boat, and enjoying good rest at night. These advantages certainly +preserved our lives; for, small as the supply was, I am very sensible +how much it relieved our distresses. About this time nature would have +sunk under the extremes of hunger and fatigue. Some would have ceased to +struggle for a life that only promised wretchedness and misery; while +others, though possessed of more bodily strength, must soon have +followed their unfortunate companions. Even in our present situation, we +were most wretched spectacles; yet our fortitude and spirit remained; +every one being encouraged by the hopes of a speedy termination to his +misery. + +For my own part, wonderful as it may appear, I felt neither extreme +hunger nor thirst. My allowance contented me, knowing I could have no +more. + +I served one 25th of a pound of bread, and an allowance of water, for +breakfast, and the same for dinner, with an addition of six oysters to +each person. At noon, latitude observed 10 deg. 48' S; course since +yesterday noon S 81 W; distance 111 miles; longitude, by account, from +Shoal Cape 1 deg. 45' W. + +[Sidenote: Friday 5.] + +Friday, June the 5th. Fair weather with some showers, and a strong trade +wind at E S E. + +This day we saw a number of water-snakes, that were ringed yellow and +black, and towards noon we passed a great deal of rock-weed. Though the +weather was fair, we were constantly shipping water, and two men always +employed to bale the boat. + +At noon I observed in latitude 10 deg. 45' S; our course since yesterday W +1/4 N, 108 miles; longitude made 3 deg. 35' W. Served one 25th of a pound of +bread, and a quarter of a pint of water for breakfast; the same for +dinner, with an addition of six oysters; for supper water only. + +[Sidenote: Saturday 6.] + +Saturday, June the 6th. Fair weather, with some showers, and a fresh +gale at S E and E S E. Constantly shipping water and baling. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 6.] + +In the evening a few boobies came about us, one of which I caught with +my hand. The blood was divided among three of the men who were weakest, +but the bird I ordered to be kept for our dinner the next day. Served a +quarter of a pint of water for supper, and to some, who were most in +need, half a pint. + +In the course of the night we suffered much cold and shiverings. At +day-light, I found that some of the clams, which had been hung up to dry +for sea-store, were stolen; but every one most solemnly denied having +any knowledge of it. This forenoon we saw a gannet, a sand-lark, and +some water-snakes, which in general were from two to three feet long. + +Served the usual allowance of bread and water for breakfast, and the +same for dinner, with the bird, which I distributed in the usual way, of +Who shall have this? I determined to make Timor about the latitude of 9 deg. +30' S, or 10 deg. S. At noon I observed the latitude to be 10 deg. 19' S; course +N 77 deg. W; distance 117 miles; longitude made from the Shoal Cape, the +north part of New Holland, 5 deg. 31' W. + +[Sidenote: Sunday 7.] + +Sunday, June the 7th. Fresh gales and fair weather till eight in the +evening. The remaining part of the 24 hours squally, with much wind at S +S E and E S E, and a high sea, so that we were constantly wet and +baling. + +In the afternoon, I took an opportunity of examining again into our +store of bread, and found remaining 19 days allowance, at my former rate +of serving one 25th of a pound three times a day: therefore, as I saw +every prospect of a quick passage, I again ventured to grant an +allowance for supper, agreeable to my promise at the time it was +discontinued. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 7.] + +We passed the night miserably wet and cold, and in the morning I heard +heavy complaints of our deplorable situation. The sea was high and +breaking over us. I could only afford the allowance of bread and water +for breakfast; but for dinner I gave out an ounce of dried clams to each +person, which was all that remained. + +At noon I altered the course to the W N W, to keep more from the sea +while it blew so strong. Latitude observed 9 deg. 31' S; course N 57 deg. W; +distance 88 miles; longitude made 6 deg. 46' W. + +[Sidenote: Monday 8.] + +Monday, June the 8th. Fresh gales and squally weather, with some showers +of rain. Wind E and E S E. + +This day the sea ran very high, and we were continually wet, suffering +much cold in the night. I now remarked that Mr. Ledward, the surgeon, +and Lawrence Lebogue, an old hardy seaman, were giving way very fast. I +could only assist them by a tea-spoonful or two of wine, which I had +carefully saved, expecting such a melancholy necessity. Among most of +the others I observed more than a common inclination to sleep, which +seemed to indicate that nature was almost exhausted. + +Served the usual allowance of bread and water at supper, breakfast, and +dinner. Saw several gannets. + +At noon I observed in 8 deg. 45' S; course W N W 1/4 W, 106 miles; longitude +made 8 deg. 23' W. + +[Sidenote: Tuesday 9.] + +Tuesday, June the 9th. Wind S E. The weather being moderate, I steered W +by S. + +[Sidenote: 1789 JUNE 9.] + +At four in the afternoon we caught a small dolphin, the first relief of +the kind we obtained. I issued about two ounces to each person, +including the offals, and saved the remainder for dinner the next day. +Towards evening the wind freshened, and it blew strong all night, so +that we shipped much water, and suffered greatly from the wet and cold. +At day-light, as usual, I heard much complaining, which my own feelings +convinced me was too well founded. I gave the surgeon and Lebogue a +little wine, but I could give no farther relief, than assurances that a +very few days longer, at our present fine rate of sailing, would bring +us to Timor. + +Gannets, boobies, men of war and tropic birds, were constantly about us. +Served the usual allowance of bread and water, and at noon dined on the +remains of the dolphin, which amounted to about an ounce per man. I +observed the latitude to be 9 deg. 9' S; longitude made 10 deg. 8' W; course +since yesterday noon S 76 deg. W; distance 107 miles. + +[Sidenote: Wednesday 10.] + +Wednesday, June the 10th. Wind E S E. Fresh gales and fair weather, but +a continuance of much sea, which, by breaking almost constantly over the +boat, made us miserably wet, and we had much cold to endure in the +night. + +This afternoon I suffered great sickness from the oily nature of part of +the stomach of the fish, which had fallen to my share at dinner. At +sun-set I served an allowance of bread and water for supper. In the +morning, after a very bad night, I could see an alteration for the worse +in more than half my people. The usual allowance was served for +breakfast and dinner. At noon I found our situation to be in latitude 9 deg. +16' S; longitude from the north part of New Holland 12 deg. 1' W; course +since yesterday noon W 1/2 S, distance 111 miles. + +[Sidenote: Thursday 11.] + +Thursday, June the 11th. Fresh gales and fair weather. Wind S E and S S +E. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 11.] + +Birds and rock-weed showed that we were not far from land; but I +expected such signs must be here, as there are many islands between the +east part of Timor and New Guinea. I however hoped to fall in with Timor +every hour, for I had great apprehensions that some of my people could +not hold out. An extreme weakness, swelled legs, hollow and ghastly +countenances, great propensity to sleep, with an apparent debility of +understanding, seemed to me melancholy presages of their approaching +dissolution. The surgeon and Lebogue, in particular were most miserable +objects. I occasionally gave them a few tea-spoonfuls of wine, out of +the little I had saved for this dreadful stage, which no doubt greatly +helped to support them. + +For my own part, a great share of spirits, with the hopes of being able +to accomplish the voyage, seemed to be my principal support; but the +boatswain very innocently told me, that he really thought I looked worse +than any one in the boat. The simplicity with which he uttered such an +opinion diverted me, and I had good humour enough to return him a better +compliment. + +Every one received his 25th of a pound of bread, and quarter of a pint +of water, at evening, morning, and noon, and an extra allowance of water +was given to those who desired it. + +At noon I observed in latitude 9 deg. 41' S; course S 77 deg. W; distance 109 +miles; longitude made 13 deg. 49' W. I had little doubt of having now passed +the meridian of the eastern part of Timor, which is laid down in 128 deg. E. +This diffused universal joy and satisfaction. + +[Sidenote: Friday 12.] + +Friday, June the 12th. Fresh breezes and fine weather, but very hazy. +Wind from E to S E. + +All the afternoon we had several gannets, and many other birds, about +us, that indicated we were near land, and at sun-set we kept a very +anxious look-out. In the evening we caught a booby, which I reserved for +our dinner the next day. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 12.] + +At three in the morning, with an excess of joy, we discovered Timor +bearing from W S W to W N W, and I hauled on a wind to the N N E till +day-light, when the land bore from S W by S about two leagues to N E by +N seven leagues. + +It is not possible for me to describe the pleasure which the blessing of +the sight of land diffused among us. It appeared scarce credible, that +in an open boat, and so poorly provided, we should have been able to +reach the coast of Timor in forty-one days after leaving Tofoa, having +in that time run, by our log, a distance of 3618 miles, and that, +notwithstanding our extreme distress, no one should have perished in the +voyage. + +I have already mentioned, that I knew not where the Dutch settlement was +situated; but I had a faint idea that it was at the S W part of the +island. I therefore, after day-light, bore away along shore to the S S +W, and the more readily as the wind would not suffer us to go towards +the N E without great loss of time. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 12.] + +The day gave us a most agreeable prospect of the land, which was +interspersed with woods and lawns; the interior part mountainous, but +the shore low. Towards noon the coast became higher, with some +remarkable head-lands. We were greatly delighted with the general look +of the country, which exhibited many cultivated spots and beautiful +situations; but we could only see a few small huts, whence I concluded +no European resided in this part of the island. Much sea ran on the +shore, so that landing with a boat was impracticable. At noon I was +abreast of a very high head-land; the extremes of the land bore S W 1/2 +W, and N N E 1/2 E; our distance off shore being three miles; latitude, +by observation, 9 deg. 59' S; and my longitude, by dead reckoning, from the +north part of New Holland, 15 deg. 6' W. + +With the usual allowance of bread and water for dinner, I divided the +bird we had caught the night before, and to the surgeon and Lebogue I +gave a little wine. + +[Sidenote: Saturday 13.] + +Saturday, June the 13th. Fresh gales at E, and E S E, with very hazy +weather. + +During the afternoon, we continued our course along a low woody shore, +with innumerable palm-trees, called the Fan Palm from the leaf spreading +like a fan; but we had now lost all signs of cultivation, and the +country had not so fine an appearance as it had to the eastward. This, +however, was only a small tract, for by sun-set it improved again, and I +saw several great smokes where the inhabitants were clearing and +cultivating their grounds. We had now ran 25 miles to the W S W since +noon, and were W five miles from a low point, which in the afternoon I +imagined had been the southernmost land, and here the coast formed a +deep bend, with low land in the bight that appeared like islands. The +west shore was high; but from this part of the coast to the high cape +which we were abreast of yesterday noon, the shore is low, and I believe +shoal. I particularly remark this situation, because here the very high +ridge of mountains, that run from the east end of the island, terminate, +and the appearance of the country suddenly changes for the worse, as if +it was not the same island in any respect. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 13.] + +That we might not run past any settlement in the night, I determined to +preserve my station till the morning, and therefore hove to under a +close-reefed fore-sail, with which the boat lay very quiet. We were here +in shoal water; our distance from the shore being half a league, the +westernmost land in sight bearing W S W 1/2 W. Served bread and water +for supper, and the boat lying too very well, all but the officer of the +watch endeavoured to get a little sleep. + +At two in the morning, we wore, and stood in shore till day-light, when +I found we had drifted, during the night, about three leagues to the W S +W, the southernmost land in sight bearing W. On examining the coast, and +not seeing any sign of a settlement, we bore away to the westward, +having a strong gale, against a weather current, which occasioned much +sea. The shore was high and covered with wood, but we did not run far +before low land again formed the coast, the points of which opening at +west, I once more fancied we were on the south part of the island; but +at ten o'clock we found the coast again inclining towards the south, +part of it bearing W S W 1/2 W. At the same time high land appeared from +S W to S W by W 1/2 W; but the weather was so hazy, that it was doubtful +whether the two lands were separated, the opening only extending one +point of the compass. I, for this reason, stood towards the outer land, +and found it to be the island Roti. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 13.] + +I returned to the shore I had left, and in a sandy bay I brought to a +grapnel, that I might more conveniently calculate my situation. In this +place we saw several smokes, where the natives were clearing their +grounds. During the little time we remained here, the master and +carpenter very much importuned me to let them go in search of supplies; +to which, at length, I assented; but, finding no one willing to be of +their party, they did not choose to quit the boat. I stopped here no +longer than for the purpose just mentioned, and we continued steering +along shore. We had a view of a beautiful-looking country, as if formed +by art into lawns and parks. The coast is low, and covered with woods, +in which are innumerable fan palm-trees, that look like cocoa-nut walks. +The interior part is high land, but very different from the more eastern +parts of the island, where it is exceedingly mountainous, and to +appearance the soil better. + +At noon, the island Roti bore S W by W seven leagues. I had no +observation for the latitude, but, by account, we were in 10 deg. 12' S; our +course since yesterday noon being S 77 W, 54 miles. The usual allowance +of bread and water was served for breakfast and dinner, and to the +surgeon and Lebogue, I gave a little wine. + +[Sidenote: Sunday 14.] + +Sunday, June the 14th. A strong gale at E S E, with hazy weather, all +the afternoon; after which the wind became moderate. + +At two o'clock this afternoon, having run through a very dangerous +breaking sea, the cause of which I attributed to a strong tide setting to +windward, and shoal water, we discovered a spacious bay or sound, with a +fair entrance about two or three miles wide. I now conceived hopes that +our voyage was nearly at an end, as no place could appear more eligible +for shipping, or more likely to be chosen for an European settlement: I +therefore came to a grapnel near the east side of the entrance, in a +small sandy bay, where we saw a hut, a dog, and some cattle; and I +immediately sent the boatswain and gunner away to the hut, to discover +the inhabitants. + +The S W point of the entrance bore W 1/2 S three miles; the S E point S +by W three quarters of a mile; and the island Roti from S by W 1/4 W to +S W 1/4 W, about five leagues. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 14.] + +While we lay here I found the ebb came from the northward, and before +our departure the falling of the tide discovered to us a reef of rocks, +about two cables length from the shore; the whole being covered at +high-water, renders it dangerous. On the opposite shore also appeared +very high breakers; but there is nevertheless plenty of room, and +certainly a safe channel for a first-rate man of war. + +The bay or sound within, seemed to be of a considerable extent; the +northern part, which I had now in view, being about five leagues +distant. Here the land made in moderate risings joined by lower grounds. +But the island Roti, which lies to the southward, is the best mark to +know this place. + +I had just time to make these remarks, when I saw the boatswain and +gunner returning with some of the natives. I therefore no longer doubted +of our success, and that our most sanguine expectations would be fully +gratified. They brought five Indians, and informed me that they had +found two families, where the women treated them with European +politeness. From these people I learned, that the governor resided at a +place called Coupang, which was some distance to the N E. I made signs +for one of them to go in the boat, and show me Coupang, intimating that +I would pay him for his trouble; the man readily complied, and came into +the boat. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 14.] + +These people were of a dark tawny colour, and had long black hair; they +chewed a great deal of beetle, and wore a square piece of cloth round +their hips, in the folds of which was stuck a large knife. They had a +handkerchief wrapped round their heads, and at their shoulders hung +another tied by the four corners, which served as a bag for their beetle +equipage. + +They brought us a few pieces of dried turtle, and some ears of Indian +corn. This last was most welcome to us; for the turtle was so hard, that +it could not be eaten without being first soaked in hot water. Had I +staid they would have brought us something more; but, as the pilot was +willing, I was determined to push on. It was about half an hour past +four when we sailed. + +By direction of the pilot we kept close to the east shore under all our +sail; but as night came on, the wind died away, and we were obliged to +try at the oars, which I was surprised to see we could use with some +effect. However, at ten o'clock, as I found we got but little ahead, I +came to a grapnel, and for the first time I issued double allowance of +bread and a little wine to each person. + +At one o'clock in the morning, after the most happy and sweet sleep that +ever men had, we weighed, and continued to keep the east shore on board, +in very smooth water; when at last I found we were again open to the +sea, the whole of the land to the westward, that we had passed, being an +island, which the pilot called Pulo Samow. The northern entrance of this +channel is about a mile and a half or two miles wide, and I had no +ground at ten fathoms. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 14.] + +Hearing the report of two cannon that were fired, gave new life to every +one; and soon after we discovered two square-rigged vessels and a cutter +at anchor to the eastward. I endeavoured to work to windward, but we +were obliged to take to our oars again, having lost ground on each tack. +We kept close to the shore, and continued rowing till four o'clock, when +I brought to a grapnel, and gave another allowance of bread and wine to +all hands. As soon as we had rested a little, we weighed again, and +rowed till near day-light, when I came to a grapnel, off a small fort +and town, which the pilot told me was Coupang. + +Among the things which the boatswain had thrown into the boat before we +left the ship, was a bundle of signal flags that had been made for the +boats to show the depth of water in sounding; with these I had, in the +course of the passage, made a small jack, which I now hoisted in the +main shrouds, as a signal of distress; for I did not choose to land +without leave. + +Soon after day-break a soldier hailed me to land, which I instantly did, +among a croud of Indians, and was agreeably surprised to meet with an +English sailor, who belonged to one of the vessels in the road. His +captain, he told me, was the second person in the town; I therefore +desired to be conducted to him, as I was informed the governor was ill, +and could not then be spoken with. + +Captain Spikerman received me with great humanity. I informed him of our +miserable situation; and requested that care might be taken of those who +were with me, without delay. On which he gave directions for their +immediate reception at his own house, and went himself to the governor, +to know at what time I could be permitted to see him; which was fixed to +be at eleven o'clock. + +I now desired every one to come on shore, which was as much as some of +them could do, being scarce able to walk: they, however, got at last to +the house, and found tea with bread and butter provided for their +breakfast. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 14.] + +The abilities of a painter, perhaps, could never have been displayed to +more advantage than in the delineation of the two groups of figures, +which at this time presented themselves. An indifferent spectator would +have been at a loss which most to admire; the eyes of famine sparkling +at immediate relief, or the horror of their preservers at the sight of +so many spectres, whose ghastly countenances, if the cause had been +unknown, would rather have excited terror than pity. Our bodies were +nothing but skin and bones, our limbs were full of sores, and we were +cloathed in rags; in this condition, with the tears of joy and gratitude +flowing down our cheeks, the people of Timor beheld us with a mixture of +horror, surprise, and pity. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 14.] + +The governor, Mr. William Adrian Van Este, notwithstanding his extreme +ill-health, became so anxious about us, that I saw him before the +appointed time. He received me with great affection, and gave me the +fullest proofs that he was possessed of every feeling of a humane and +good man. Sorry as he was, he said, that such a calamity could ever have +happened to us, yet he considered it as the greatest blessing of his +life that we had fallen under his protection; and, though his infirmity +was so great that he could not do the office of a friend himself, he +would give such orders as I might be certain would procure me every +supply I wanted. In the mean time a house was hired for me, and, till +matters could be properly regulated, victuals for every one were ordered +to be dressed at his own house. With respect to my people, he said I +might have room for them either at the hospital or on board of captain +Spikerman's ship, which lay in the road; and he expressed much +uneasiness that Coupang could not afford them better accommodations, the +house assigned to me being the only one uninhabited, and the situation +of the few families such, that they could not accommodate any one. After +this conversation an elegant repast was set before me, more according to +the custom of the country, than with design to alleviate my hunger: so +that in this instance he happily blended, with common politeness, the +greatest favour I could receive. + +On returning to my people, I found every kind relief had been given to +them. The surgeon had dressed their sores, and the cleaning of their +persons had not been less attended to, besides several friendly gifts of +apparel. + +I now desired to be shewn to the house that was intended for me, and I +found it ready, with servants to attend, and a particular one, which the +governor had directed to be always about my person. The house consisted +of a hall, with a room at each end, and a loft over-head; and was +surrounded by a piazza, with an outer apartment in one corner, and a +communication from the back part of the house to the street. I therefore +determined, instead of separating from my people, to lodge them all with +me; and I divided the house as follows: One room I took to myself, the +other I allotted to the master, surgeon, Mr. Nelson, and the gunner; the +loft to the other officers; and the outer apartment to the men. The hall +was common to the officers, and the men had the back piazza. Of this I +informed the governor, and he sent down chairs, tables, and benches, +with bedding and other necessaries for the use of every one. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 14.] + +The governor, when I took my leave, had desired me to acquaint him with +every thing of which I stood in need; but I was now informed it was only +at particular times that he had a few moments of ease, or could attend +to any thing; being in a dying state, with an incurable disease. On this +account, whatever business I had to transact would be with Mr. Timotheus +Wanjon, the second of this place, and the governor's son-in-law; who now +also was contributing every thing in his power to make our situation +comfortable. I had been, therefore, misinformed by the seaman, who told +me that captain Spikerman was the next person to the governor. + +At noon a very handsome dinner was brought to the house, which was +sufficient to make persons, more accustomed to plenty, eat too much. +Cautions, therefore, might be supposed to have had little effect; but I +believe few people in such a situation would have observed more +moderation. My greatest apprehension was, that they would eat too much +fruit. + +Having seen every one enjoy this meal of plenty, I dined with Mr. +Wanjon; but I found no extraordinary inclination to eat or drink. Rest +and quiet, I considered, as more necessary to my doing well, and +therefore retired to my room, which I found furnished with every +convenience. But, instead of rest, my mind was disposed to reflect on +our late sufferings, and on the failure of the expedition; but, above +all, on the thanks due to Almighty God, who had given us power to +support and bear such heavy calamities, and had enabled me at last to be +the means of saving eighteen lives. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 14.] + +In times of difficulty there will generally arise circumstances that +bear more particularly hard on a commander. In our late situation, it +was not the least of my distresses, to be constantly assailed with the +melancholy demands of my people for an increase of allowance, which it +grieved me to refuse. The necessity of observing the most rigid +[oe]conomy in the distribution of our provisions was so evident, that I +resisted their solicitations, and never deviated from the agreement we +made at setting out. The consequence of this care was, that at our +arrival we had still remaining sufficient for eleven days, at our +scanty allowance: and if we had been so unfortunate as to have missed +the Dutch settlement at Timor, we could have proceeded to Java, where I +was certain every supply we wanted could be procured. + +Another disagreeable circumstance, to which my situation exposed me, was +the caprice of ignorant people. Had I been incapable of acting, they +would have carried the boat on shore as soon as we made the island of +Timor, without considering that landing among the natives, at a distance +from the European settlement, might have been as dangerous as among any +other Indians. + +The quantity of provisions with which we left the ship, was not more +than we should have consumed in five days, had there been no necessity +for husbanding our stock. The mutineers must naturally have concluded +that we could have no other place of refuge than the Friendly Islands; +for it was not likely they should imagine, that, so poorly equipped as +we were in every respect, there could have been a possibility of our +attempting to return homewards: much less will they suspect that the +account of their villany has already reached their native country. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 14.] + +When I reflect how providentially our lives were saved at Tofoa, by the +Indians delaying their attack, and that, with scarce any thing to +support life, we crossed a sea of more than 1200 leagues, without +shelter from the inclemency of the weather; when I reflect that in an +open boat, with so much stormy weather, we escaped foundering, that not +any of us were taken off by disease, that we had the great good fortune +to pass the unfriendly natives of other countries without accident, and +at last happily to meet with the most friendly and best of people to +relieve our distresses; I say, when I reflect on all these wonderful +escapes, the remembrance of such great mercies enables me to bear, with +resignation and chearfulness, the failure of an expedition, the success +of which I had so much at heart, and which was frustrated at a time when +I was congratulating myself on the fairest prospect of being able to +complete it in a manner that would fully have answered the intention of +his Majesty, and the honourable promoters of so benevolent a plan. + +With respect to the preservation of our health, during a course of 16 +days of heavy and almost continual rain, I would recommend to every one +in a similar situation the method we practised, which is to dip their +cloaths in the salt-water, and wring them out, as often as they become +filled with rain; it was the only resource we had, and I believe was of +the greatest service to us, for it felt more like a change of dry +cloaths than could well be imagined. We had occasion to do this so +often, that at length all our cloaths were wrung to pieces: for, except +the few days we passed on the coast of New Holland, we were continually +wet either with rain or sea. + +Thus, through the assistance of Divine Providence, we surmounted the +difficulties and distresses of a most perilous voyage, and arrived safe +in an hospitable port, where every necessary and comfort were +administered to us with a most liberal hand. + + +[Sidenote: Timor.] + +[Sidenote: 1789. JULY.] + +As, from the great humanity and attention of the governor, and the +gentlemen, at Coupang, we received every kind of assistance, we were not +long without evident signs of returning health: therefore, to secure my +arrival at Batavia, before the October fleet sailed for Europe, on the +first of July, I purchased a small schooner; 34 feet long, for which I +gave 1000 rix-dollars, and fitted her for sea, under the name of His +Majesty's schooner Resource. + +[Sidenote: July. 20.] + +On the 20th of July, I had the misfortune to lose Mr. David Nelson: he +died of an inflammatory fever. The loss of this honest man I very much +lamented: he had accomplished, with great care and diligence, the object +for which he was sent, and was always ready to forward every plan I +proposed, for the good of the service we were on. He was equally useful +in our voyage hither, in the course of which he gave me great +satisfaction, by the patience and fortitude with which he conducted +himself. + +[Sidenote: July. 21.] + +July 21st. This day I was employed attending the funeral of Mr. Nelson. +The corpse was carried by twelve soldiers drest in black, preceded by +the minister; next followed myself and second governor; then ten +gentlemen of the town and the officers of the ships in the harbour; and +after them my own officers and people. + +After reading our burial-service, the body was interred behind the +chapel, in the burying-ground appropriated to the Europeans of the town. +I was sorry I could get no tombstone to place over his remains. + +This was the second voyage Mr. Nelson had undertaken to the South Seas, +having been sent out by Sir Joseph Banks; to collect plants, seeds, &c. +in Captain Cook's last voyage. And now, after surmounting so many +difficulties, and in the midst of thankfulness for his deliverance, he +was called upon to pay the debt of nature, at a time least expected. + +[Sidenote: August 20.] + +August the 20th. After taking an affectionate leave of the hospitable +and friendly inhabitants, I embarked, and we sailed from Coupang, +exchanging salutes with the fort and shipping as we ran out of the +harbour. + +[Sidenote: 1789. AUGUST.] + +I left the governor, Mr. Van Este, at the point of death. To this +gentleman our most grateful thanks are due, for the humane and friendly +treatment that we have received from him. His ill state of health only +prevented him from showing us more particular marks of attention. +Unhappily, it is to his memory only that I now pay this tribute. It was +a fortunate circumstance for us, that Mr. Wanjon, the next in place to +the governor, was equally humane and ready to relieve us. His attention +was unremitting, and, when there was a doubt about supplying me with +money, on government account, to enable me to purchase a vessel, he +chearfully took it upon himself; without which, it was evident, I should +have been too late at Batavia to have sailed for Europe with the October +fleet. I can only return such services by ever retaining a grateful +remembrance of them. + +Mr. Max, the town surgeon, likewise behaved to us with the most +disinterested humanity: he attended every one with the utmost care; for +which I could not prevail on him to receive any payment, or to render me +any account, or other answer, than that it was his duty. + +Coupang is situated in 10 deg. 12' S latitude, and 124 deg. 41' E longitude. + +[Sidenote: August 29.] + +On the 29th of August, I passed by the west end of the Island Flores, +through a dangerous strait full of islands and rocks; and, having got +into the latitude of 8 deg. S, I steered to the west, passing the islands +Sumbawa, Lombock, and Bali, towards Java, which I saw on the 6th of +September. I continued my course to the west, through the Straits of +Madura. + +[Sidenote: September 10.] + +[Sidenote: Passourwang] + +On the 10th of September, I anchored off Passourwang, in latitude 7 deg. 36' +S, and 1 deg. 44' W of Cape Sandana, the N E end or Java. + +[Sidenote: 1789. SEPTEMBER] + +On the 11th I sailed, and on the 13th arrived at Sourabya, latitude 7 deg. +11' S, 1 deg. 52' west. + +[Sidenote: Sourabya. Crissey.] + +On the 17th of September, sailed from Sourabya, and the same day +anchored at Crissey, for about two hours, and from thence I proceeded to +Samarang. Latitude of Crissey 7 deg. 9' S, 1 deg. 55' west. + +[Sidenote: Samarang.] + +[Sidenote: Batavia.] + +On the 22nd of September, anchored at Samarang; latitude 6 deg. 54' S; 4 deg. 7' +W. And on the 26th I sailed for Batavia, where I arrived on the 1st of +October. Latitude 6 deg. 10' S; 8 deg. 12' W from the east end of Java. + +On the day after my arrival, having gone through some fatigue in +adjusting matters to get my people out of the schooner, as she lay in +the river, and in an unhealthy situation, I was seized with a violent +fever. + +On the 7th, I was carried into the country, to the physician-general's +house, where, the governor-general informed me, I should be accommodated +with every attendance and convenience; and to this only can I attribute +my recovery. It was, however, necessary for me to quit Batavia without +delay; and the governor, on that account, gave me leave, with two +others, to go in a packet that was to sail before the fleet; and assured +me, that those who remained should be sent after me by the fleet, which +was to sail before the end of the month: that if I remained, which would +be highly hazardous, he could not send us all in one ship. My sailing, +therefore, was eligible, even if it had not been necessary for my +health; and for that reason I embarked in the Vlydt packet, which sailed +on the 16th of October. + +[Sidenote: Cape of Good Hope.] + +[Sidenote: 1789. DECEMBER.] + +On the 16th of December, I arrived at the Cape of Good Hope where I +first observed that my usual health was returning; but for a long time +I continued very weak and infirm. + +I received the greatest attention and politeness from the +governor-general, and all the residents on the coast of Java; and +particular marks of friendship and regard from the governor, M. Van de +Graaf, at the Cape of Good Hope. + +On the 2d of January, 1790, we sailed for Europe, and on the 14th of +March, I was landed at Portsmouth by an Isle of Wight boat. + + +FINIS. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Narrative Of The Mutiny, On Board +His Majesty's Ship Bounty; And The Subsequent Voyage Of Part Of The Crew, In The Ship's Boat, by William Bligh + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MUTINY OF THE BOUNTY *** + +***** This file should be named 20337.txt or 20337.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/0/3/3/20337/ + +Produced by Chuck Greif, V. L. Simpson and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. 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