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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/20337-8.txt b/20337-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1811c53 --- /dev/null +++ b/20337-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3379 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Narrative Of The Mutiny, On Board His +Majesty's Ship Bounty; And The Subsequent Voyage Of Part Of The Crew, In The Ship's Boat, by William Bligh + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Narrative Of The Mutiny, On Board His Majesty's Ship Bounty; And The Subsequent Voyage Of Part Of The Crew, In The Ship's Boat + +Author: William Bligh + +Release Date: January 11, 2007 [EBook #20337] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MUTINY OF THE BOUNTY *** + + + + +Produced by Chuck Greif, V. L. Simpson and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Posner Memorial Collection +(http://posnet.library.cmu.edu/Posner/)). + + + + + + + + A NARRATIVE OF THE MUTINY, + ON BOARD HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP _BOUNTY_; + AND THE SUBSEQUENT VOYAGE OF PART OF THE CREW, + IN THE SHIP's BOAT, + + From TOFOA, one of the Friendly Islands, + To TIMOR, a Dutch Settlement in the East Indies. + + Written by LIEUTENANT WILLIAM BLIGH. + + ILLUSTRATED WITH CHARTS. + + + LONDON: + PRINTED FOR GEORGE NICOL, BOOKSELLER TO HIS MAJESTY, PALL-MALL. + MDCCXC. + + + + + ADVERTISEMENT. + + +The following Narrative is only a part of a voyage undertaken for the +purpose of conveying the Bread-fruit Tree from the South Sea Islands to +the West Indies. The manner in which this expedition miscarried, with +the subsequent transactions and events, are here related. This part of +the voyage is not first in the order of time, yet the circumstances are +so distinct from that by which it was preceded, that it appears +unnecessary to delay giving as much early information as possible +concerning so extraordinary an event. The rest will be laid before the +Public as soon as it can be got ready; and it is intended to publish it +in such a manner, as, with the present Narrative, will make the account +of the voyage compleat. + +At present, for the better understanding the following pages, it is +sufficient to inform the reader, that in August, 1787, I was appointed +to command the Bounty, a ship of 215 tons burthen, carrying 4 +six-pounders, 4 swivels, and 46 men, including myself and every person +on board. We sailed from England in December, 1787, and arrived at +Otaheite the 26th of October, 1788. On the 4th of April, 1789, we left +Otaheite, with every favourable appearance of completing the object of +the voyage, in a manner equal to my most sanguine expectations. At this +period the ensuing Narrative commences. + + + + + A + + NARRATIVE, &c. + + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +I sailed from Otaheite on the 4th of April 1789, having on board 1015 +fine bread-fruit plants, besides many other valuable fruits of that +country, which, with unremitting attention, we had been collecting for +three and twenty weeks, and which were now in the highest state of +perfection. + +On the 11th of April, I discovered an island in latitude 18° 52´ S. and +longitude 200° 19´ E. by the natives called Whytootackee. On the 24th we +anchored at Annamooka, one of the Friendly Islands; from which, after +completing our wood and water, I sailed on the 27th, having every reason +to expect, from the fine condition of the plants, that they would +continue healthy. + +On the evening of the 28th, owing to light winds, we were not clear of +the islands, and at night I directed my course towards Tofoa. The master +had the first watch; the gunner the middle watch; and Mr. Christian, one +of the mates, the morning watch. This was the turn of duty for the +night. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +Just before sun-rising, Mr. Christian, with the master at arms, gunner's +mate, and Thomas Burket, seaman, came into my cabin while I was asleep, +and seizing me, tied my hands with a cord behind my back, and threatened +me with instant death, if I spoke or made the least noise: I, however, +called so loud as to alarm every one; but they had already secured the +officers who were not of their party, by placing centinels at their +doors. There were three men at my cabin door, besides the four within; +Christian had only a cutlass in his hand, the others had muskets and +bayonets. I was hauled out of bed, and forced on deck in my shirt, +suffering great pain from the tightness with which they had tied my +hands. I demanded the reason of such violence, but received no other +answer than threats of instant death, if I did not hold my tongue. Mr. +Elphinston, the master's mate, was kept in his birth; Mr. Nelson, +botanist, Mr. Peckover, gunner, Mr. Ledward, surgeon, and the master, +were confined to their cabins; and also the clerk, Mr. Samuel, but he +soon obtained leave to come on deck. The fore hatchway was guarded by +centinels; the boatswain and carpenter were, however, allowed to come on +deck, where they saw me standing abaft the mizen-mast, with my hands +tied behind my back, under a guard, with Christian at their head. + +The boatswain was now ordered to hoist the launch out, with a threat, if +he did not do it instantly, to take care of himself. + +The boat being out, Mr. Hayward and Mr. Hallet, midshipmen, and Mr. +Samuel, were ordered into it; upon which I demanded the cause of such an +order, and endeavoured to persuade some one to a sense of duty; but it +was to no effect: "Hold your tongue, Sir, or you are dead this instant," +was constantly repeated to me. + +The master, by this time, had sent to be allowed to come on deck, which +was permitted; but he was soon ordered back again to his cabin. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +I continued my endeavours to turn the tide of affairs, when Christian +changed the cutlass he had in his hand for a bayonet, that was brought +to him, and, holding me with a strong gripe by the cord that tied my +hands, he with many oaths threatened to kill me immediately if I would +not be quiet: the villains round me had their pieces cocked and bayonets +fixed. Particular people were now called on to go into the boat, and +were hurried over the side: whence I concluded that with these people I +was to be set adrift. + +I therefore made another effort to bring about a change, but with no +other effect than to be threatened with having my brains blown out. + +The boatswain and seamen, who were to go in the boat, were allowed to +collect twine, canvas, lines, sails, cordage, an eight and twenty gallon +cask of water, and the carpenter to take his tool chest. Mr. Samuel got +150lbs of bread, with a small quantity of rum and wine. He also got a +quadrant and compass into the boat; but was forbidden, on pain of death, +to touch either map, ephemeris, book of astronomical observations, +sextant, time-keeper, or any of my surveys or drawings. + +The mutineers now hurried those they meant to get rid of into the boat. +When most of them were in, Christian directed a dram to be served to +each of his own crew. I now unhappily saw that nothing could be done to +effect the recovery of the ship: there was no one to assist me, and +every endeavour on my part was answered with threats of death. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +The officers were called, and forced over the side into the boat, while +I was kept apart from every one, abaft the mizen-mast; Christian, armed +with a bayonet, holding me by the bandage that secured my hands. The +guard round me had their pieces cocked, but, on my daring the ungrateful +wretches to fire, they uncocked them. + +Isaac Martin, one of the guard over me, I saw, had an inclination to +assist me, and, as he fed me with shaddock, (my lips being quite parched +with my endeavours to bring about a change) we explained our wishes to +each other by our looks; but this being observed, Martin was instantly +removed from me; his inclination then was to leave the ship, for which +purpose he got into the boat; but with many threats they obliged him to +return. + +The armourer, Joseph Coleman, and the two carpenters, M'Intosh and +Norman, were also kept contrary to their inclination; and they begged of +me, after I was astern in the boat, to remember that they declared they +had no hand in the transaction. Michael Byrne, I am told, likewise +wanted to leave the ship. + +It is of no moment for me to recount my endeavours to bring back the +offenders to a sense of their duty: all I could do was by speaking to +them in general; but my endeavours were of no avail, for I was kept +securely bound, and no one but the guard suffered to come near me. + +To Mr. Samuel I am indebted for securing my journals and commission, +with some material ship papers. Without these I had nothing to certify +what I had done, and my honour and character might have been suspected, +without my possessing a proper document to have defended them. All this +he did with great resolution, though guarded and strictly watched. He +attempted to save the time-keeper, and a box with all my surveys, +drawings, and remarks for fifteen years past, which were numerous; when +he was hurried away, with "Damn your eyes, you are well off to get what +you have." + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +It appeared to me, that Christian was some time in doubt whether he +should keep the carpenter, or his mates; at length he determined on the +latter, and the carpenter was ordered into the boat. He was permitted, +but not without some opposition, to take his tool chest. + +Much altercation took place among the mutinous crew during the whole +business: some swore "I'll be damned if he does not find his way home, +if he gets any thing with him," (meaning me); others, when the +carpenter's chest was carrying away, "Damn my eyes, he will have a +vessel built in a month." While others laughed at the helpless situation +of the boat, being very deep, and so little room for those who were in +her. As for Christian, he seemed meditating instant destruction on +himself and every one. + +I asked for arms, but they laughed at me, and said I was well acquainted +with the people where I was going, and therefore did not want them; four +cutlasses, however, were thrown into the boat, after we were veered +astern. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +When the officers and men, with whom I was suffered to have no +communication, were put into the boat, they only waited for me, and the +master at arms informed Christian of it; who then said--"Come, captain +Bligh, your officers and men are now in the boat, and you must go with +them; if you attempt to make the least resistance you will instantly be +put to death:" and, without any farther ceremony, holding me by the cord +that tied my hands, with a tribe of armed ruffians about me, I was +forced over the side, where they untied my hands. Being in the boat we +were veered astern by a rope. A few pieces of pork were then thrown to +us, and some cloaths, also the cutlasses I have already mentioned; and +it was now that the armourer and carpenters called out to me to +remember that they had no hand in the transaction. After having +undergone a great deal of ridicule, and been kept some time to make +sport for these unfeeling wretches, we were at length cast adrift in the +open ocean. + +I had with me in the boat the following persons: + + Names. Stations. + + JOHN FRYER Master. + THOMAS LEDWARD Acting Surgeon. + DAVID NELSON Botanist. + WILLIAM PECKOVER Gunner. + WILLIAM COLE Boatswain. + WILLIAM PURCELL Carpenter. + WILLIAM ELPHINSTON Master's Mate. + THOMAS HAYWARD } Midshipmen. + JOHN HALLETT } + JOHN NORTON } Quarter Masters. + PETER LINKLETTER } + LAWRENCE LEBOGUE Sailmaker. + JOHN SMITH } Cooks. + THOMAS HALL } + GEORGE SIMPSON Quarter Master's Mate. + ROBERT TINKLER A boy. + ROBERT LAMB Butcher. + MR. SAMUEL Clerk. + +There remained on board the Bounty, as pirates, + + FLETCHER CHRISTIAN Master's Mate. + PETER HAYWOOD } + EDWARD YOUNG } Midshipmen. + GEORGE STEWART } + CHARLES CHURCHILL Master at Arms. + JOHN MILLS Gunner's Mate. + JAMES MORRISON Boatswain's Mate. + THOMAS BURKITT Able Seaman. + MATTHEW QUINTAL Ditto. + JOHN SUMNER Ditto. + JOHN MILLWARD Ditto. + WILLIAM M'KOY Ditto. + HENRY HILLBRANT Ditto. + MICHAEL BYRNE Ditto. + WILLIAM MUSPRAT Ditto. + ALEXANDER SMITH Ditto. + JOHN WILLIAMS Ditto. + THOMAS ELLISON Ditto. + ISAAC MARTIN Ditto. + RICHARD SKINNER Ditto. + MATTHEW THOMPSON Ditto. + WILLIAM BROWN Gardiner. + JOSEPH COLEMAN Armourer. + CHARLES NORMAN Carpenter's Mate. + THOMAS M'INTOSH Carpenter's Crew. + +In all 25 hands, and the most able men of the ship's company. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +Having little or no wind, we rowed pretty fast towards Tofoa, which bore +N E about 10 leagues from us. While the ship was in sight she steered to +the W N W, but I considered this only as a feint; for when we were sent +away--"Huzza for Otaheite," was frequently heard among the mutineers. + +Christian, the captain of the gang, is of a respectable family in the +north of England. This was the third voyage he had made with me; and, as +I found it necessary to keep my ship's company at three watches, I gave +him an order to take charge of the third, his abilities being thoroughly +equal to the task; and by this means my master and gunner were not at +watch and watch. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +Haywood is also of a respectable family in the north of England, and a +young man of abilities, as well as Christian. These two were objects of +my particular regard and attention, and I took great pains to instruct +them, for they really promised, as professional men, to be a credit to +their country. + +Young was well recommended, and appeared to me an able stout seaman; +therefore I was glad to take him: he, however, fell short of what his +appearance promised. + +Stewart was a young man of creditable parents, in the Orkneys; at which +place, on the return of the Resolution from the South Seas, in 1780, we +received so many civilities, that, on that account only, I should gladly +have taken him with me: but, independent of this recommendation, he was +a seaman, and had always borne a good character. + +Notwithstanding the roughness with which I was treated, the remembrance +of past kindnesses produced some signs of remorse in Christian. When +they were forcing me out of the ship, I asked him, if this treatment was +a proper return for the many instances he had received of my friendship? +he appeared disturbed at my question, and answered, with much emotion, +"That,--captain Bligh,--that is the thing;--I am in hell--I am in hell." + +As soon as I had time to reflect, I felt an inward satisfaction which +prevented any depression of my spirits: conscious of my integrity, and +anxious solicitude for the good of the service in which I was engaged, +I found my mind wonderfully supported, and I began to conceive hopes, +notwithstanding so heavy a calamity, that I should one day be able to +account to my King and country for the misfortune.--A few hours before, +my situation had been peculiarly flattering. I had a ship in the most +perfect order, and well stored with every necessary both for service and +health: by early attention to those particulars I had, as much as lay in +my power, provided against any accident, in case I could not get through +Endeavour Straits, as well as against what might befal me in them; add +to this, the plants had been successfully preserved in the most +flourishing state: so that, upon the whole, the voyage was two thirds +completed, and the remaining part in a very promising way; every person +on board being in perfect health, to establish which was ever amongst +the principal objects of my attention. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +It will very naturally be asked, what could be the reason for such a +revolt? in answer to which, I can only conjecture that the mutineers had +assured themselves of a more happy life among the Otaheiteans, than they +could possibly have in England; which, joined to some female +connections, have most probably been the principal cause of the whole +transaction. + +The women at Otaheite are handsome, mild and chearful in their manners +and conversation, possessed of great sensibility, and have sufficient +delicacy to make them admired and beloved. The chiefs were so much +attached to our people, that they rather encouraged their stay among +them than otherwise, and even made them promises of large possessions. +Under these, and many other attendant circumstances, equally desirable, +it is now perhaps not so much to be wondered at, though scarcely +possible to have been foreseen, that a set of sailors, most of them +void of connections, should be led away; especially when, in addition to +such powerful inducements, they imagined it in their power to fix +themselves in the midst of plenty, on the finest island in the world, +where they need not labour, and where the allurements of dissipation are +beyond any thing that can be conceived. The utmost, however, that any +commander could have supposed to have happened is, that some of the +people would have been tempted to desert. But if it should be asserted, +that a commander is to guard against an act of mutiny and piracy in his +own ship, more than by the common rules of service, it is as much as to +say that he must sleep locked up, and when awake, be girded with +pistols. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +Desertions have happened, more or less, from many of the ships that have +been at the Society Islands; but it ever has been in the commanders +power to make the chiefs return their people: the knowledge, therefore, +that it was unsafe to desert; perhaps, first led mine to consider with +what ease so small a ship might be surprized, and that so favourable an +opportunity would never offer to them again. + +The secrecy of this mutiny is beyond all conception. Thirteen of the +party, who were with me, had always lived forward among the people; yet +neither they, nor the messmates of Christian, Stewart, Haywood, and +Young, had ever observed any circumstance to give them suspicion of what +was going on. With such close-planned acts of villainy, and my mind free +from any suspicion, it is not wonderful that I have been got the better +of. Perhaps, if I had had marines, a centinel at my cabin-door might +have prevented it; for I slept with the door always open, that the +officer of the watch might have access to me on all occasions. The +possibility of such a conspiracy was ever the farthest from my +thoughts. Had their mutiny been occasioned by any grievances, either +real or imaginary, I must have discovered symptoms of their discontent, +which would have put me on my guard: but the case was far otherwise. +Christian, in particular, I was on the most friendly terms with; that +very day he was engaged to have dined with me; and the preceding night +he excused himself from supping with me, on pretence of being unwell; +for which I felt concerned, having no suspicions of his integrity and +honour. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +It now remained with me to consider what was best to be done. My first +determination was to seek a supply of bread-fruit and water at Tofoa, +and afterwards to sail for Tongataboo; and there risk a solicitation to +Poulaho, the king, to equip my boat, and grant a supply of water and +provisions, so as to enable us to reach the East Indies. + +The quantity of provisions I found in the boat was 150 lb. of bread, 16 +pieces of pork, each piece weighing 2 lb. 6 quarts of rum, 6 bottles of +wine, with 28 gallons of water, and four empty barrecoes. + +[Sidenote: Wednesday 29.] + +Wednesday, April 29th[*]. Happily the afternoon kept calm, until about 4 +o'clock, when we were so far to windward, that, with a moderate easterly +breeze which sprung up, we were able to sail. It was nevertheless dark +when we got to Tofoa, where I expected to land; but the shore proved to +be so steep and rocky, that I was obliged to give up all thoughts of it, +and keep the boat under the lee of the island with two oars; for there +was no anchorage. Having fixed on this mode of proceeding for the night, +I served to every person half a pint of grog, and each took to his rest +as well as our unhappy situation would allow. + +[*] It is to be observed, that the account of time is kept in the +nautical way, each day ending at noon. Thus the beginning of the 29th of +April is, according to the common way of reckoning, the afternoon of the +28th. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL 29.] + +In the morning, at dawn of day, we set off along shore in search of +landing, and about ten o'clock we discovered a stony cove at the N W +part of the island, where I dropt the grapnel within 20 yards of the +rocks. A great deal of surf ran on the shore; but, as I was unwilling to +diminish our stock of provisions, I landed Mr. Samuel, and some others, +who climbed the cliffs, and got into the country to search for supplies. +The rest of us remained at the cove, not discovering any way to get into +the country, but that by which Mr. Samuel had proceeded. It was great +consolation to me to find, that the spirits of my people did not sink, +notwithstanding our miserable and almost hopeless situation. Towards +noon Mr. Samuel returned, with a few quarts of water, which he had found +in holes; but he had met with no spring or any prospect of a sufficient +supply in that particular, and had only seen signs of inhabitants. As it +was impossible to know how much we might be in want, I only issued a +morsel of bread, and a glass of wine, to each person for dinner. + +I observed the latitude of this cove to be 19° 41´ S. + +This is the N W part of Tofoa, the north-westernmost of the Friendly +Islands. + +[Sidenote: Thursday 30.] + +Thursday, April 30th. Fair weather, but the wind blew so violently from +the E S E that I could not venture to sea. Our detention therefore made +it absolutely necessary to see what we could do more for our support; +for I determined, if possible, to keep my first stock entire: I +therefore weighed, and rowed along shore, to see if any thing could be +got; and at last discovered some cocoa-nut trees, but they were on the +top of high precipices, and the surf made it dangerous landing; both +one and the other we, however, got the better of. Some, with much +difficulty, climbed the cliffs, and got about 20 cocoa-nuts, and others +slung them to ropes, by which we hauled them through the surf into the +boat. This was all that could be done here; and, as I found no place so +eligible as the one we had left to spend the night at, I returned to the +cove, and, having served a cocoa-nut to each person, we went to rest +again in the boat. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL 30.] + +At dawn of day I attempted to get to sea; but the wind and weather +proved so bad, that I was glad to return to my former station; where, +after issuing a morsel of bread and a spoonful of rum to each person, we +landed, and I went off with Mr. Nelson, Mr. Samuel, and some others, +into the country, having hauled ourselves up the precipice by long +vines, which were fixed there by the natives for that purpose; this +being the only way into the country. + +We found a few deserted huts, and a small plantain walk, but little +taken care of; from which we could only collect three small bunches of +plantains. After passing this place, we came to a deep gully that led +towards a mountain, near a volcano; and, as I conceived that in the +rainy season very great torrents of water must pass through it, we hoped +to find sufficient for our use remaining in some holes of the rocks; +but, after all our search, the whole that we found was only nine +gallons, in the course of the day. We advanced within two miles of the +foot of the highest mountain in the island, on which is the volcano that +is almost constantly burning. The country near it is all covered with +lava, and has a most dreary appearance. As we had not been fortunate in +our discoveries, and saw but little to alleviate our distresses, we +filled our cocoa-nut shells with the water we found, and returned +exceedingly fatigued and faint. When I came to the precipice whence we +were to descend into the cove, I was seized with such a dizziness in my +head, that I thought it scarce possible to effect it: however, by the +assistance of Mr. Nelson, and others, they at last got me down, in a +weak condition. Every person being returned by noon, I gave about an +ounce of pork and two plantains to each, with half a glass of wine. I +again observed the latitude of this place 19° 41´ south. The people who +remained by the boat I had directed to look for fish, or what they could +pick up about the rocks; but nothing eatable could be found: so that, +upon the whole, we considered ourselves on as miserable a spot of land +as could well be imagined. + +I could not say positively, from the former knowledge I had of this +island, whether it was inhabited or not; but I knew it was considered +inferior to the other islands, and I was not certain but that the +Indians only resorted to it at particular times. I was very anxious to +ascertain this point; for, in case there had only been a few people +here, and those could have furnished us with but very moderate supplies, +the remaining in this spot to have made preparations for our voyage, +would have been preferable to the risk of going amongst multitudes, +where perhaps we might lose every thing. A party, therefore, +sufficiently strong, I determined should go another route, as soon as +the sun became lower; and they cheerfully undertook it. + +[Sidenote: MAY. Friday 1.] + +Friday, May the 1st: stormy weather, wind E S E and S E. About two +o'clock in the afternoon the party set out; but, after suffering much +fatigue, they returned in the evening, without any kind of success. + +At the head of the cove, about 150 yards from the water-side, was a +cave; across the stony beach was about 100 yards, and the only way from +the country into the cove was that which I have already described. The +situation secured us from the danger of being surprised, and I +determined to remain on shore for the night, with a part of my people, +that the others might have more room to rest in the boat, with the +master; whom I directed to lie at a grapnel, and be watchful, in case we +should be attacked. I ordered one plantain for each person to be boiled; +and, having supped on this scanty allowance, with a quarter of a pint of +grog, and fixed the watches for the night, those whose turn it was, laid +down to sleep in the cave; before which we kept up a good fire, yet +notwithstanding we were much troubled with flies and musquitoes. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 1.] + +At dawn of day the party set out again in a different route, to see what +they could find; in the course of which they suffered greatly for want +of water: they, however, met with two men, a woman, and a child; the men +came with them to the cove, and brought two cocoa-nut shells of water. I +immediately made friends with these people, and sent them away for +bread-fruit, plantains, and water. Soon after other natives came to us; +and by noon I had 30 of them about me, trading with the articles we were +in want of: but I could only afford one ounce of pork, and a quarter of +a bread-fruit, to each man for dinner, with half a pint of water; for I +was fixed in not using any of the bread or water in the boat. + +No particular chief was yet among the natives: they were, +notwithstanding, tractable, and behaved honestly, giving the provisions +they brought for a few buttons and beads. The party who had been out, +informed me of having discovered several neat plantations; so that it +became no longer a doubt of there being settled inhabitants on the +island; and for that reason I determined to get what I could, and sail +the first moment the wind and weather would allow me to put to sea. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 1.] + +[Sidenote: Saturday 2.] + +Saturday, May the 2d: stormy weather, wind E S E. It had hitherto been a +weighty consideration with me, how I was to account to the natives for +the loss of my ship: I knew they had too much sense to be amused with a +story that the ship was to join me, when she was not in sight from the +hills. I was at first doubtful whether I should tell the real fact, or +say that the ship had overset and sunk, and that only we were saved: the +latter appeared to me to be the most proper and advantageous to us, and +I accordingly instructed my people, that we might all agree in one +story. As I expected, enquiries were made after the ship, and they +seemed readily satisfied with our account; but there did not appear the +least symptom of joy or sorrow in their faces, although I fancied I +discovered some marks of surprise. Some of the natives were coming and +going the whole afternoon, and we got enough of bread-fruit, plantains, +and cocoa-nuts for another day; but water they only brought us about +five pints. A canoe also came in with four men, and brought a few +cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit, which I bought as I had done the rest. Nails +were much enquired after, but I would not suffer one to be shewn, as I +wanted them for the use of the boat. + +Towards evening I had the satisfaction to find our stock of provisions +somewhat increased: but the natives did not appear to have much to +spare. What they brought was in such small quantities, that I had no +reason to hope we should be able to procure from them sufficient to +stock us for our voyage. At sun-set all the natives left us in quiet +possession of the cove. I thought this a good sign, and made no doubt +that they would come again the next day with a larger proportion of food +and water, with which I hoped to sail without farther delay: for if, in +attempting to get to Tongataboo, we should be blown away from the +islands altogether, there would be a larger quantity of provisions to +support us against such a misfortune. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 2.] + +At night I served a quarter of a bread-fruit and a cocoa-nut to each +person for supper; and, a good fire being made, all but the watch went +to sleep. + +At day-break I was happy to find every one's spirits a little revived, +and that they no longer regarded me with those anxious looks, which had +constantly been directed towards me since we lost sight of the ship: +every countenance appeared to have a degree of cheerfulness, and they +all seemed determined to do their best. + +As I doubted of water being brought by the natives, I sent a party among +the gullies in the mountains, with empty shells, to see what they could +get. In their absence the natives came about us, as I expected, but more +numerous; also two canoes came in from round the north side of the +island. In one of them was an elderly chief, called Maccaackavow. Soon +after some of our foraging party returned, and with them came a +good-looking chief, called Eegijeefow, or perhaps more properly Eefow, +Egij or Eghee, signifying a chief. To both these men I made a present of +an old shirt and a knife, and I soon found they either had seen me, or +had heard of my being at Annamooka. They knew I had been with captain +Cook, who they enquired after, and also captain Clerk. They were very +inquisitive to know in what manner I had lost my ship. During this +conversation a young man appeared, whom I remembered to have seen at +Annamooka, called Nageete: he expressed much pleasure at seeing me. I +now enquired after Poulaho and Feenow, who, they said, were at +Tongataboo; and Eefow agreed to accompany me thither, if I would wait +till the weather moderated. The readiness and affability of this man +gave me much satisfaction. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 2.] + +This, however, was but of short duration, for the natives began to +increase in number, and I observed some symptoms of a design against us; +soon after they attempted to haul the boat on shore, when I threatened +Eefow with a cutlass, to induce him to make them desist; which they did, +and every thing became quiet again. My people, who had been in the +mountains, now returned with about three gallons of water. I kept buying +up the little bread-fruit that was brought to us, and likewise some +spears to arm my men with, having only four cutlasses, two of which were +in the boat. As we had no means of improving our situation, I told our +people I would wait until sun-set, by which time, perhaps, something +might happen in our favour: that if we attempted to go at present, we +must fight our way through, which we could do more advantageously at +night; and that in the mean time we would endeavour to get off to the +boat what we had bought. The beach was now lined with the natives, and +we heard nothing but the knocking of stones together, which they had in +each hand. I knew very well this was the sign of an attack. It being now +noon, I served a cocoa-nut and a bread-fruit to each person for dinner, +and gave some to the chiefs, with whom I continued to appear intimate +and friendly. They frequently importuned me to sit down, but I as +constantly refused; for it occurred both to Mr. Nelson and myself, that +they intended to seize hold of me, if I gave them such an opportunity. +Keeping, therefore, constantly on our guard, we were suffered to eat our +uncomfortable meal in some quietness. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 2.] + +[Sidenote: Sunday 3.] + +Sunday, 3d May, fresh gales at S E and E S E, varying to the N E in the +latter part, with a storm of wind. + +After dinner we began by little and little to get our things into the +boat, which was a troublesome business, on account of the surf. I +carefully watched the motions of the natives, who still increased in +number, and found that, instead of their intention being to leave us, +fires were made, and places fixed on for their stay during the night. +Consultations were also held among them, and every thing assured me we +should be attacked. I sent orders to the master, that when he saw us +coming down, he should keep the boat close to the shore, that we might +the more readily embark. + +I had my journal on shore with me, writing the occurrences in the cave, +and in sending it down to the boat it was nearly snatched away, but for +the timely assistance of the gunner. + +The sun was near setting when I gave the word, on which every person, +who was on shore with me, boldly took up his proportion of things, and +carried them to the boat. The chiefs asked me if I would not stay with +them all night, I said, "No, I never sleep out of my boat; but in the +morning we will again trade with you, and I shall remain until the +weather is moderate, that we may go, as we have agreed, to see Poulaho, +at Tongataboo." Maccaackavow then got up, and said, "You will not sleep +on shore? then Mattie," (which directly signifies we will kill you) and +he left me. The onset was now preparing; every one, as I have described +before, kept knocking stones together, and Eefow quitted me. We had now +all but two or three things in the boat, when I took Nageete by the +hand, and we walked down the beach, every one in a silent kind of +horror. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 3.] + +When I came to the boat, and was seeing the people embark, Nageete +wanted me to stay to speak to Eefow; but I found he was encouraging them +to the attack, and I determined, had it then begun, to have killed him +for his treacherous behaviour. I ordered the carpenter not to quit me +until the other people were in the boat. Nageete, finding I would not +stay, loosed himself from my hold and went off, and we all got into the +boat except one man, who, while I was getting on board, quitted it, and +ran up the beach to cast the stern fast off, notwithstanding the master +and others called to him to return, while they were hauling me out of +the water. + +I was no sooner in the boat than the attack began by about 200 men; the +unfortunate poor man who had run up the beach was knocked down, and the +stones flew like a shower of shot. Many Indians got hold of the stern +rope, and were near hauling us on shore, and would certainly have done +it if I had not had a knife in my pocket, with which I cut the rope. We +then hauled off to the grapnel, every one being more or less hurt. At +this time I saw five of the natives about the poor man they had killed, +and two of them were beating him about the head with stones in their +hands. + +[Sidenote: 1789. May 3] + +We had no time to reflect, before, to my surprise, they filled their +canoes with stones, and twelve men came off after us to renew the +attack, which they did so effectually as nearly to disable all of us. +Our grapnel was foul, but Providence here assisted us; the fluke broke, +and we got to our oars, and pulled to sea. They, however, could paddle +round us, so that we were obliged to sustain the attack without being +able to return it, except with such stones as lodged in the boat, and in +this I found we were very inferior to them. We could not close, because +our boat was lumbered and heavy, and that they knew very well: I +therefore adopted the expedient of throwing overboard some cloaths, +which they lost time in picking up; and, as it was now almost dark, they +gave over the attack, and returned towards the shore, leaving us to +reflect on our unhappy situation. + +The poor man I lost was John Norton: this was his second voyage with me +as a quarter-master, and his worthy character made me lament his loss +very much. He has left an aged parent, I am told, whom he supported. + +[Sidenote: 1789. May 3.] + +I once before sustained an attack of a similar nature, with a smaller +number of Europeans, against a multitude of Indians; it was after the +death of captain Cook, on the Morai at Owhyhee, where I was left by +lieutenant King: yet, notwithstanding, I did not conceive that the power +of a man's arm could throw stones, from two to eight pounds weight, with +such force and exactness as these people did. Here unhappily I was +without arms, and the Indians knew it; but it was a fortunate +circumstance that they did not begin to attack us in the cave: in that +case our destruction must have been inevitable, and we should have had +nothing left for it but to die as bravely as we could, fighting close +together; in which I found every one cheerfully disposed to join me. +This appearance of resolution deterred them, supposing they could effect +their purpose without risk after we were in the boat. + +Taking this as a sample of the dispositions of the Indians, there was +little reason to expect much benefit if I persevered in my intention of +visiting Poulaho; for I considered their good behaviour hitherto to +proceed from a dread of our fire-arms, which, now knowing us destitute +of, would cease; and, even supposing our lives not in danger, the boat +and every thing we had would most probably be taken from us, and thereby +all hopes precluded of ever being able to return to our native country. + +We were now sailing along the west side of the island Tofoa, and my mind +was employed in considering what was best to be done, when I was +solicited by all hands to take them towards home: and, when I told them +no hopes of relief for us remained, but what I might find at New +Holland, until I came to Timor, a distance of full 1200 leagues, where +was a Dutch settlement, but in what part of the island I knew not, they +all agreed to live on one ounce of bread, and a quarter of a pint of +water, per day. Therefore, after examining our stock of provisions, and +recommending this as a sacred promise for ever to their memory, we bore +away across a sea, where the navigation is but little known, in a small +boat, twenty-three feet long from stern to stern, deep laden with +eighteen men; without a chart, and nothing but my own recollection and +general knowledge of the situation of places, assisted by a book of +latitudes and longitudes, to guide us. I was happy, however, to see +every one better satisfied with our situation in this particular than +myself. + +[Sidenote: 1789. May 3.] + +Our stock of provisions consisted of about one hundred and fifty pounds +of bread, twenty-eight gallons of water, twenty pounds of pork, three +bottles of wine, and five quarts of rum. The difference between this and +the quantity we had on leaving the ship, was principally owing to loss +in the bustle and confusion of the attack. A few cocoa-nuts were in the +boat, and some bread-fruit, but the latter was trampled to pieces. + +It was about eight o'clock at night when I bore away under a reefed lug +fore-sail: and, having divided the people into watches, and got the boat +in a little order, we returned God thanks for our miraculous +preservation, and, fully confident of his gracious support, I found my +mind more at ease than for some time past. + +At day-break the gale increased; the sun rose very fiery and red, a sure +indication of a severe gale of wind. At eight it blew a violent storm, +and the sea ran very high, so that between the seas the sail was +becalmed, and when on the top of the sea it was too much to have set: +but I was obliged to carry to it, for we were now in very imminent +danger and distress, the sea curling over the stern of the boat, which +obliged us to bale with all our might. A situation more distressing has, +perhaps, seldom been experienced. + +Our bread was in bags, and in danger of being spoiled by the wet: to be +starved to death was inevitable, if this could not be prevented: I +therefore began to examine what cloaths there were in the boat, and what +other things could be spared; and, having determined that only two suits +should be kept for each person, the rest was thrown overboard, with some +rope and spare sails, which lightened the boat considerably, and we had +more room to bale the water out. Fortunately the carpenter had a good +chest in the boat, into which I put the bread the first favourable +moment. His tool chest also was cleared, and the tools stowed in the +bottom of the boat, so that this became a second convenience. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 3.] + +I now served a tea-spoonful of rum to each person, (for we were very wet +and cold) with a quarter of a bread-fruit, which was scarce eatable, for +dinner; but our engagement was now strictly to be carried into +execution, and I was fully determined to make what provisions I had last +eight weeks, let the daily proportion be ever so small. + +At noon I considered my course and distance from Tofoa to be W N W 3/4 +W. 86 miles, my latitude 19° 27´ S. I directed my course to the W N W, +that I might get a sight of the islands called Feejee, if they laid in +the direction the natives had pointed out to me. + +[Sidenote: Monday 4.] + +Monday, 4th May. This day the weather was very severe, it blew a storm +from N E to E S E. The sea ran higher than yesterday, and the fatigue of +baling, to keep the boat from filling, was exceedingly great. We could +do nothing more than keep before the sea; in the course of which the +boat performed so wonderfully well, that I no longer dreaded any danger +in that respect. But among the hardships we were to undergo, that of +being constantly wet was not the least: the nights were very cold, and +at day-light our limbs were so benumbed, that we could scarce find the +use of them. At this time I served a tea-spoonful of rum to each person, +which we all found great benefit from. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 4.] + +As I have mentioned before, I determined to keep to the W N W, until I +got more to the northward, for I not only expected to have better +weather, but to see the Feejee Islands, as I have often understood, from +the natives of Annamooka, that they lie in that direction; Captain Cook +likewise considers them to be N W by W from Tongataboo. Just before noon +we discovered a small flat island of a moderate height, bearing W S W, 4 +or 5 leagues. I observed in latitude 18° 58´ S; our longitude, by +account, 3° 4´ W from the island Tofoa, having made a N 72° W course, +distance 95 miles, since yesterday noon. I divided five small cocoa-nuts +for our dinner, and every one was satisfied. + +[Sidenote: Tuesday 5.] + +Tuesday, 5th May. Towards the evening the gale considerably abated. Wind +S E. + +A little after noon, other islands appeared, and at a quarter past three +o'clock we could count eight, bearing from S round by the west to N W by +N; those to the south, which were the nearest, being four leagues +distant from us. + +I kept my course to the N W by W, between the islands, and at six +o'clock discovered three other small islands to the N W, the westernmost +of them bore N W 1/2 W 7 leagues. I steered to the southward of these +islands, a W N W course for the night, under a reefed sail. + +Served a few broken pieces of bread-fruit for supper, and performed +prayers. + +The night turned out fair, and, having had tolerable rest, every one +seemed considerably better in the morning, and contentedly breakfasted +on a few pieces of yams that were found in the boat. After breakfast we +prepared a chest for our bread, and it got secured: but unfortunately a +great deal was damaged and rotten; this nevertheless we were glad to +keep for use. + +I had hitherto been scarcely able to keep any account of our run; but we +now equipped ourselves a little better, by getting a log-line marked, +and, having practised at counting seconds; several could do it with +some degree of exactness. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 5.] + +The islands I have passed lie between the latitude of 19° 5´ S and 18° +19´ S, and, according to my reckoning, from 3° 17´ to 3° 46´ W longitude +from the island Tofoa: the largest may be about six leagues in circuit; +but it is impossible for me to be very exact. To show where they are to +be found again is the most my situation enabled me to do. The sketch I +have made, will give a comparative view of their extent. I believe all +the larger islands are inhabited, as they appeared very fertile. + +At noon I observed, in latitude 18° 10´ S, and considered my course and +distance from yesterday noon, N W by W 1/2 W, 94 miles; longitude, by +account, from Tofoa 4° 29´ W. + +For dinner, I served some of the damaged bread, and a quarter of a pint +of water. + +[Sidenote: Wednesday 6.] + +Wednesday, 6th May. Fresh breezes E N E, and fair weather, but very +hazy. + +About six o'clock this afternoon I discovered two islands, one bearing W +by S 6 leagues, and the other N W by N 8 leagues; I kept to windward of +the northernmost, and passing it by 10 o'clock, I resumed my course to +the N W and W N W. At day-light in the morning I discovered a number of +other islands from S S E to the W, and round to N E by E; between those +in the N W I determined to pass. At noon a small sandy island or key, 2 +miles distant from me, bore from E to S 3/4 W. I had passed ten islands, +the largest of which may be 6 or 8 leagues in circuit. Much larger lands +appeared in the S W and N by W, between which I directed my course. +Latitude observed 17° 17´ S; course since yesterday noon N 50° W; +distance 84 miles; longitude made, by account, 5° 37´ W. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 6.] + +Our supper, breakfast, and dinner, consisted of a quarter of a pint of +cocoa-nut milk, and the meat, which did not exceed two ounces to each +person: it was received very contentedly, but we suffered great drought. +I dared not to land, as we had no arms, and were less capable to defend +ourselves than we were at Tofoa. + +To keep an account of the boat's run was rendered difficult, from being +constantly wet with the sea breaking over us; but, as we advanced +towards the land, the sea became smoother, and I was enabled to form a +sketch of the islands, which will serve to give a general knowledge of +their extent. Those I have been near are fruitful and hilly, some very +mountainous, and all of a good height. + +To our great joy we hooked a fish, but we were miserably disappointed by +its being lost in getting into the boat. + +[Sidenote: Thursday 7.] + +Thursday, 7th May. Variable weather and cloudy, wind north-easterly, and +calms. I continued my course to the N W, between the islands, which, by +the evening, appeared of considerable extent, woody and mountainous. At +sun-set the southernmost bore from S to S W by W, and the northernmost +from N by W 1/2 W to N E 1/2 E. At six o'clock I was nearly mid-way +between them, and about 6 leagues distant from each shore, when I fell +in with a coral bank, where I had only four feet water, without the +least break on it, or ruffle of the sea to give us warning. I could only +see that it extended about a mile on each side of us; but, as it is +probable that it extends much farther, I have laid it down so in my +sketch. + +I now directed my course W by N for the night, and served to each person +an ounce of the damaged bread, and a quarter of a pint of water, for +supper. + +[Sidenote: 1789. May 7.] + +It may readily be supposed, that our lodgings were very miserable and +confined, and I had only in my power to remedy the latter defect by +putting ourselves at watch and watch; so that one half always sat up +while the other lay down on the boat's bottom, or upon a chest, with +nothing to cover us but the heavens. Our limbs were dreadfully cramped, +for we could not stretch them out, and the nights were so cold, and we +so constantly wet, that after a few hours sleep we could scarce move. + +At dawn of day we again discovered land from W S W to W N W, and another +island N N W, the latter a high round lump of but little extent; and I +could see the southern land that I had passed in the night. Being very +wet and cold, I served a spoonful of rum and a morsel of bread for +breakfast. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 7.] + +As I advanced towards the land in the west, it appeared in a variety of +forms; some extraordinary high rocks, and the country agreeably +interspersed with high and low land, covered in some places with wood. +Off the N E part lay two small rocky islands, between which and the +island to the N E, 4 leagues apart, I directed my course; but a lee +current very unexpectedly set us very near to the shore, and I could +only get clear of it by rowing, passing close to the reef that +surrounded the rocky isles. We now observed two large sailing canoes +coming swiftly after us along shore, and, being apprehensive of their +intentions, we rowed with some anxiety, being sensible of our weak and +defenceless state. It was now noon, calm and cloudy weather, my latitude +is therefore doubtful to 3 or 4 miles; my course since yesterday noon N +56 W, distance 79 miles; latitude by account, 16° 29´ S, and longitude +by account, from Tofoa, 6° 46´ W. Being constantly wet, it was with the +utmost difficulty I could open a book to write, and I am sensible that +what I have done can only serve to point out where these lands are to +be found again, and give an idea of their extent. + +[Sidenote: Friday 8.] + +Friday, 8th May. All the afternoon the weather was very rainy, attended +with thunder and lightning. Wind N N E. + +Only one of the canoes gained upon us, and by three o'clock in the +afternoon was not more than two miles off, when she gave over chase. + +If I may judge from the sail of the vessels, they are the same as at the +Friendly Islands, and the nearness of their situation leaves little room +to doubt of their being the same kind of people. Whether these canoes +had any hostile intention against us is a matter of doubt; perhaps we +might have benefited by an intercourse with them, but in our defenceless +situation it would have been risking too much to make the experiment. + +I imagine these to be the islands called Feejee, as their extent, +direction, and distance from the Friendly Islands, answers to the +description given of them by those Islanders. Heavy rain came on at four +o'clock, when every person did their utmost to catch some water, and we +increased our stock to 34 gallons, besides quenching our thirst for the +first time since we had been at sea; but an attendant consequence made +us pass the night very miserably, for, being extremely wet, and no dry +things to shift or cover us, we experienced cold and shiverings scarce +to be conceived. Most fortunately for us, the forenoon turned out fair, +and we stripped and dried our cloaths. The allowance I issued to-day, +was an ounce and a half of pork, a tea-spoonful of rum, half a pint of +cocoa-nut milk, and an ounce of bread. The rum, though so small in +quantity, was of the greatest service. A fishing-line was generally +towing, and we saw great numbers of fish, but could never catch one. + +At noon, I observed, in latitude 16° 4´ S, and found I had made a +course, from yesterday noon, N 62° W, distance 62 miles; longitude, by +account, from Tofoa, 7° 42´ W. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 8.] + +The land I passed yesterday, and the day before, is a group of islands, +14 or 16 in number, lying between the latitude of 16° 26´ S and 17° 57´ +S, and in longitude, by my account, 4° 47´ to 7° 17´ W from Tofoa; three +of these islands are very large, having from 30 to 40 leagues of +sea-coast. + +[Sidenote: Saturday 9.] + +Saturday, 9th May. Fine weather, and light winds from the N E to E by S. + +This afternoon we cleaned out the boat, and it employed us till sun-set +to get every thing dry and in order. Hitherto I had issued the allowance +by guess, but I now got a pair of scales, made with two cocoa-nut +shells; and, having accidentally some pistol-balls in the boat, 25[*] of +which weighed one pound, or 16 ounces, I adopted one, as the proportion +of weight that each person should receive of bread at the times I served +it. I also amused all hands, with describing the situation of New Guinea +and New Holland, and gave them every information in my power, that in +case any accident happened to me, those who survived might have some +idea of what they were about, and be able to find their way to Timor, +which at present they knew nothing of, more than the name, and some not +that. + +[*] It weighed 272 grains. + +At night I served a quarter of a pint of water, and half an ounce of +bread, for supper. In the morning, a quarter of a pint of cocoa-nut +milk, and some of the decayed bread, for breakfast; and for dinner, I +divided the meat of four cocoa-nuts, with the remainder of the rotten +bread, which was only eatable by such distressed people. + +At noon, I observed the latitude to be 15° 47´ S; course since yesterday +N 75° W; distant 64 miles; longitude made, by account, 8° 45´ W. + +[Sidenote: 1789 MAY 10.] + +[Sidenote: Sunday 10.] + +Sunday, May the 10th. The first part of this day fine weather; but after +sun-set it became squally, with hard rain, thunder, and lightning, and a +fresh gale; wind E by S, S E, and S S E. + +In the afternoon I got fitted a pair of shrouds for each mast and +contrived a canvass weather cloth round the boat, and raised the +quarters about nine inches, by nailing on the seats of the stern sheets, +which proved of great benefit to us. + +About nine o'clock in the evening, the clouds began to gather, and we +had a prodigious fall of rain, with severe thunder and lightning. By +midnight we had caught about twenty gallons of water. Being miserably +wet and cold, I served to each person a tea-spoonful of rum, to enable +them to bear with their distressed situation. The weather continued +extremely bad, and the wind increased; we spent a very miserable night, +without sleep, but such as could be got in the midst of rain. The day +brought us no relief but its light. The sea was constantly breaking over +us, which kept two persons baling; and we had no choice how to steer, +for we were obliged to keep before the waves to avoid filling the boat. + +The allowance which I now regularly served to each person was one 25th +of a pound of bread, and a quarter of a pint of water, at sun-set, eight +in the morning, and at noon. To-day I gave about half an ounce of pork +for dinner, which, though any moderate person would have considered but +a mouthful, was divided into three or four. + +The rain abated towards noon, and I observed the latitude to be 15° 17´ +S; course N 67° W; distance 78 miles; longitude made 10° W. + +[Sidenote: Monday 11.] + +Monday, May the 11th. Strong gales from S S E to S E, and very squally +weather, with a high breaking sea, so that we were miserably wet, and +suffered great cold in the night. In the morning at day-break I served +to every person a tea-spoonful of rum, our limbs being so cramped that +we could scarce feel the use of them. Our situation was now extremely +dangerous, the sea frequently running over our stern, which kept us +baling with all our strength. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 11.] + +At noon the sun appeared, which gave us as much pleasure as in a +winter's day in England. I issued the 25th of a pound of bread, and a +quarter of a pint of water, as yesterday. Latitude observed 14° 50´ S; +course N 71° W; distance 102 miles; and longitude, by account, 11° 39´ +W. from Tofoa. + +[Sidenote: Tuesday 12.] + +Tuesday, May the 12th. Strong gales at S E, with much rain and dark +dismal weather, moderating towards noon and wind varying to the N E. + +Having again experienced a dreadful night, the day showed to me a poor +miserable set of beings full of wants, without any thing to relieve +them. Some complained of a great pain in their bowels, and all of having +but very little use of their limbs. What sleep we got was scarce +refreshing, we being covered with sea and rain. Two persons were obliged +to be always baling the water out of the boat. I served a spoonful of +rum at day-dawn, and the usual allowance of bread and water, for supper, +breakfast, and dinner. + +At noon it was almost calm, no sun to be seen, and some of us shivering +with cold. Course since yesterday W by N; distance 89 miles; latitude, +by account, 14° 33´ S; longitude made 13° 9´ W. The direction of my +course is to pass to the northward of the New Hebrides. + +[Sidenote: Wednesday 13.] + +Wednesday, May the 13th. Very squally weather, wind southerly. As I saw +no prospect of getting our cloaths dried, I recommended it to every one +to strip, and wring them through the salt water, by which means they +received a warmth, that, while wet with rain, they could not have, and +we were less liable to suffer from colds or rheumatic complaints. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 13.] + +In the afternoon we saw a kind of fruit on the water, which Mr. Nelson +knew to be the Barringtonia of Forster, and, as I saw the same again in +the morning, and some men of war birds, I was led to believe we were not +far from land. + +We continued constantly shipping seas, and baling, and were very wet and +cold in the night; but I could not afford the allowance of rum at +day-break. The twenty-fifth of a pound of bread, and water I served as +usual. At noon I had a sight of the sun, latitude 14° 17´ S; course W by +N 79 miles; longitude made 14° 28´ W. + +[Sidenote: Thursday 14.] + +Thursday, May the 14th. Fresh breezes and cloudy weather, wind +southerly. Constantly shipping water, and very wet, suffering much cold +and shiverings in the night. Served the usual allowance of bread and +water, three times a day. + +At six in the morning, we saw land, from S W by S eight leagues, to N W +by W 3/4 W six leagues, which I soon after found to be four islands, all +of them high and remarkable. At noon discovered a rocky island N W by N +four leagues, and another island W eight leagues, so that the whole were +six in number; the four I had first seen bearing from S 1/2 E to S W by +S; our distance three leagues from the nearest island. My latitude +observed was 13° 29´ S, and longitude, by account, from Tofoa, 15° 49´ +W; course since yesterday noon N 63° W; distance 89 miles. + +[Sidenote: Friday 15.] + +Friday, May the 15th. Fresh gales at S E, and gloomy weather with rain, +and a very high sea; two people constantly employed baling. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 15.] + +At four in the afternoon I passed the westernmost island. At one in the +morning I discovered another, bearing W N W, five leagues distance, and +at eight o'clock I saw it for the last time, bearing N E seven leagues. +A number of gannets, boobies, and men of war birds were seen. + +These islands lie between the latitude of 13° 16´ S and 14° 10´ S: their +longitude, according to my reckoning, 15° 51´ to 17° 6´ W from the +island Tofoa[*]. The largest island may be twenty leagues in circuit, +the others five or six. The easternmost is the smallest island, and most +remarkable, having a high sugar-loaf hill. + +[*] By making a proportional allowance for the error afterwards found in +the dead reckoning, I estimate the longitude of these islands to be from +167° 17´ E to 168° 34´ E from Greenwich. + +The sight of these islands served but to increase the misery of our +situation. We were very little better than starving, with plenty in +view; yet to attempt procuring any relief was attended with so much +danger, that prolonging of life, even in the midst of misery, was +thought preferable, while there remained hopes of being able to surmount +our hardships. For my own part, I consider the general run of cloudy and +wet weather to be a blessing of Providence. Hot weather would have +caused us to have died with thirst; and perhaps being so constantly +covered with rain or sea protected us from that dreadful calamity. + +As I had nothing to assist my memory, I could not determine whether +these islands were a part of the New Hebrides or not: I believed them +perfectly a new discovery, which I have since found to be the case; but, +though they were not seen either by Monsieur Bougainville or Captain +Cook, they are so nearly in the neighbourhood of the New Hebrides, that +they must be considered as part of the same group. They are fertile, and +inhabited, as I saw smoke in several places. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 16.] + +[Sidenote: Saturday 16.] + +Saturday, May the 16th. Fresh gales from the S E, and rainy weather. The +night was very dark, not a star to be seen to steer by, and the sea +breaking constantly over us. I found it necessary to act as much as +possible against the southerly winds, to prevent being driven too near +New Guinea; for in general we were forced to keep so much before the +sea, that if we had not, at intervals of moderate weather, steered a +more southerly course, we should inevitably, from a continuance of the +gales, have been thrown in sight of that coast: in which case there +would most probably have been an end to our voyage. + +In addition to our miserable allowance of one 25th of a pound of bread, +and a quarter of a pint of water, I issued for dinner about an ounce of +salt pork to each person. I was often solicited for this pork, but I +considered it better to give it in small quantities than to use all at +once or twice, which would have been done if I had allowed it. + +At noon I observed, in 13° 33´ S; longitude made from Tofoa, 19° 27´ W; +course N 82° W; distance 101 miles. The sun gave us hopes of drying our +wet cloaths. + +[Sidenote: Sunday 17.] + +Sunday, May the 17th. The sunshine was but of short duration. We had +strong breezes at S E by S, and dark gloomy weather, with storms of +thunder, lightning, and rain. The night was truly horrible, and not a +star to be seen; so that our steerage was uncertain. At dawn of day I +found every person complaining, and some of them soliciting extra +allowance; but I positively refused it. Our situation was extremely +miserable; always wet, and suffering extreme cold in the night, without +the least shelter from the weather. Being constantly obliged to bale, to +keep the boat from filling, was, perhaps, not to be reckoned an evil, as +it gave us exercise. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 17.] + +The little rum I had was of great service to us; when our nights were +particularly distressing, I generally served a tea-spoonful or two to +each person: and it was always joyful tidings when they heard of my +intentions. + +At noon a water-spout was very near on board of us. I issued an ounce of +pork, in addition to the allowance of bread and water; but before we +began to eat, every person stript and wrung their cloaths through the +sea-water, which we found warm and refreshing. Course since yesterday +noon W S W; distance 100 miles; latitude, by account, 14° 11´ S, and +longitude made 21° 3´ W. + +[Sidenote: Monday 18.] + +Monday, May the 18th. Fresh gales with rain, and a dark dismal night, +wind S E; the sea constantly breaking over us, and nothing but the wind +and sea to direct our steerage. I now fully determined to make New +Holland, to the southward of Endeavour straits, sensible that it was +necessary to preserve such a situation as would make a southerly wind a +fair one; that I might range the reefs until an opening should be found +into smooth water, and we the sooner be able to pick up some +refreshments. + +In the morning the rain abated, when we stripped, and wrung our cloaths +through the sea-water, as usual, which refreshed us wonderfully. Every +person complained of violent pain in their bones: I was only surprised +that no one was yet laid up. Served one 25th of a pound of bread, and a +quarter of a pint of water, at supper, breakfast, and dinner, as +customary. + +At noon I deduced my situation, by account, for we had no glimpse of the +sun, to be in latitude 14° 52´ S; course since yesterday noon W S W 106 +miles; longitude made from Tofoa 22° 45´ W. Saw many boobies and +noddies, a sign of being in the neighbourhood of land. + +[Sidenote: 1789. May 19. Tuesday 19.] + +Tuesday, May the 19th. Fresh gales at E N E, with heavy rain, and dark +gloomy weather, and no sight of the sun. We past this day miserably wet +and cold, covered with rain and sea, from which we had no relief, but at +intervals by pulling off our cloaths and wringing them through the sea +water. In the night we had very severe lightning, but otherwise it was +so dark that we could not see each other. The morning produced many +complaints on the severity of the weather, and I would gladly have +issued my allowance of rum, if it had not appeared to me that we were to +suffer much more, and that it was necessary to preserve the little I +had, to give relief at a time we might be less able to bear such +hardships; but, to make up for it, I served out about half an ounce of +pork to each person, with the common allowance of bread and water, for +dinner. All night and day we were obliged to bale without intermission. + +At noon it was very bad weather and constant rain; latitude, by account, +14° 37´ S; course since yesterday N 81° W; distance 100 miles; longitude +made 24° 30´ W. + +[Sidenote: Wednesday 20.] + +Wednesday, May the 20th. Fresh breezes E N E with constant rain; at +times a deluge. Always baling. + +[Sidenote: 1789. May 20.] + +At dawn of day, some of my people seemed half dead: our appearances were +horrible; and I could look no way, but I caught the eye of some one in +distress. Extreme hunger was now too evident, but no one suffered from +thirst, nor had we much inclination to drink, that desire, perhaps, +being satisfied through the skin. The little sleep we got was in the +midst of water, and we constantly awoke with severe cramps and pains in +our bones. This morning I served about two tea-spoonfuls of rum to each +person, and the allowance of bread and water, as usual. At noon the sun +broke out, and revived every one. I found we were in latitude 14° 49´ +S; longitude made 25° 46´ W; course S 88° W; distance 75 miles. + +[Sidenote: Thursday 21.] + +Thursday, May the 21st. Fresh gales, and heavy showers of rain. Wind E N +E. + +Our distresses were now very great, and we were so covered with rain and +salt water, that we could scarcely see. Sleep, though we longed for it, +afforded no comfort: for my own part, I almost lived without it: we +suffered extreme cold, and every one dreaded the approach of night. +About two o'clock in the morning we were overwhelmed with a deluge of +rain. It fell so heavy that we were afraid it would fill the boat, and +were obliged to bale with all our might. At dawn of day, I served a +large allowance of rum. Towards noon the rain abated and the sun shone, +but we were miserably cold and wet, the sea breaking so constantly over +us, that, notwithstanding the heavy rain, we had not been able to add to +our stock of fresh water. The usual allowance of one 25th of a pound of +bread and water was served at evening, morning, and noon. Latitude, by +observation, 14° 29´ S, and longitude made, by account, from Tofoa, 27° +25´ W; course, since yesterday noon, N 78° W, 99 miles. I now considered +myself on a meridian with the east part of New Guinea, and about 65 +leagues distant from the coast of New Holland. + +[Sidenote: Friday 22.] + +Friday, May the 22nd. Strong gales from E S E to S S E, a high sea, and +dark dismal night. + +Our situation this day was extremely calamitous. We were obliged to take +the course of the sea, running right before it, and watching with the +utmost care, as the least error in the helm would in a moment have been +our destruction. The sea was continually breaking all over us; but, as +we suffered not such cold as when wet with the rain, I only served the +common allowance of bread and water. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 22.] + +At noon it blew very hard, and the foam of the sea kept running over our +stern and quarters; I however got propped up, and made an observation of +the latitude, in 14° 17´ S; course N 85° W; distance 130 miles; +longitude made 29° 38´ west. + +[Sidenote: Saturday 23.] + +Saturday, May the 23d. Strong gales with very hard squalls, and rain; +wind S E, and S S E. + +The misery we suffered this day exceeded the preceding. The night was +dreadful. The sea flew over us with great force, and kept us baling with +horror and anxiety. At dawn of day I found every one in a most +distressed condition, and I now began to fear that another such a night +would put an end to the lives of several who seemed no longer able to +support such sufferings. Every one complained of severe pains in their +bones; but these were alleviated, in some degree, by an allowance of two +tea-spoonfuls of rum; after drinking which, having wrung our cloaths, +and taken our breakfast of bread and water, we became a little +refreshed. + +Towards noon it became fair weather; but with very little abatement of +the gale, and the sea remained equally high. With great difficulty I +observed the latitude to be 13° 44´ S; course N 74° W; distance 116 +miles since yesterday; longitude made 31° 32´ W from Tofoa. + +[Sidenote: Sunday 24.] + +Sunday, May the 24th. Fresh gales and fine weather; wind S S E and S. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 24.] + +Towards the evening the weather looked much better, which rejoiced all +hands, so that they eat their scanty allowance with more satisfaction +than for some time past. The night also was fair; but, being always wet +with the sea, we suffered much from the cold. A fine morning, I had the +pleasure to see, produce some chearful countenances. Towards noon the +weather improved, and, the first time for 15 days past, we found a +little warmth from the sun. We stripped, and hung our cloaths up to dry, +which were by this time become so thread-bare, that they would not keep +out either wet or cold. + +At noon I observed in latitude 13° 33´ S; longitude, by account, from +Tofoa 33° 28´ W; course N 84° W; distance 114 miles. With the usual +allowance of bread and water for dinner, I served an ounce of pork to +each person. + +[Sidenote: Monday 25.] + +Monday, May the 25th. Fresh gales and fair weather. Wind S S E. + +This afternoon we had many birds about us, which are never seen far from +land, such as boobies and noddies. + +[Sidenote: Allowance lessened.] + +About three o'clock the sea began to run fair, and we shipped but little +water, I therefore determined to know the exact quantity of bread I had +left; and on examining found, according to my present issues, sufficient +for 29 days allowance. In the course of this time I hoped to be at +Timor; but, as that was very uncertain, and perhaps after all we might +be obliged to go to Java, I determined to proportion my issues to six +weeks. I was apprehensive that this would be ill received, and that it +would require my utmost resolution to enforce it; for, small as the +quantity was which I intended to take away, for our future good, yet it +might appear to my people like robbing them of life, and some, who were +less patient than their companions, I expected would very ill brook it. +I however represented it so essentially necessary to guard against +delays in our voyage by contrary winds, or other causes, promising to +enlarge upon the allowance as we got on, that it was readily agreed to. +I therefore fixed, that every person should receive one 25th of a pound +of bread for breakfast, and one 25th of a pound for dinner; so that by +omitting the proportion for supper, I had 43 days allowance. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 25.] + +At noon some noddies came so near to us, that one of them was caught by +hand. This bird is about the size of a small pigeon. I divided it, with +its entrails, into 18 portions, and by the method of, Who shall have +this[*]? it was distributed with the allowance of bread and water for +dinner, and eat up bones and all, with salt water for sauce. I observed +the latitude 13° 32´ S; longitude made 35° 19´ W; and course N 89° W; +distance 108 miles. + +[*] One person turns his back on the object that is to be divided: +another then points separately to the portions, at each of them asking +aloud, "Who shall have this?" to which the first answers by naming +somebody. This impartial method of division gives every man an equal +chance of the best share. + +[Sidenote: Tuesday 26.] + +Tuesday, May the 26th. Fresh gales at S S E, and fine weather. + +In the evening we saw several boobies flying so near to us, that we +caught one of them by hand. This bird is as large as a good duck; like +the noddy, it has received its name from seamen, for suffering itself to +be caught on the masts and yards of ships. They are the most presumptive +proofs of being in the neighbourhood of land of any sea-fowl we are +acquainted with. I directed the bird to be killed for supper, and the +blood to be given to three of the people who were the most distressed +for want of food. The body, with the entrails, beak, and feet, I divided +into 18 shares, and with an allowance of bread, which I made a merit of +granting, we made a good supper, compared with our usual fare. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 26.] + +In the morning we caught another booby, so that Providence seemed to be +relieving our wants in a very extraordinary manner. Towards noon we +passed a great many pieces of the branches of trees, some of which +appeared to have been no long time in the water. I had a good +observation for the latitude, and found my situation to be in 13° 41´ +S; my longitude, by account, from Tofoa, 37° 13´ W; course S 85° W, 112 +miles. Every person was now overjoyed at the addition to their dinner, +which I distributed as I had done in the evening; giving the blood to +those who were the most in want of food. + +To make our bread a little savoury we frequently dipped it in salt +water; but for my own part I generally broke mine into small pieces, and +eat it in my allowance of water, out of a cocoa-nut shell, with a spoon, +economically avoiding to take too large a piece at a time, so that I was +as long at dinner as if it had been a much more plentiful meal. + +[Sidenote: Wednesday 27.] + +Wednesday, May the 27th. Fresh breezes south-easterly, and fine weather. + +The weather was now serene, but unhappily we found ourselves unable to +bear the sun's heat; many of us suffering a languor and faintness, which +made life indifferent. We were, however, so fortunate as to catch two +boobies to-day; their stomachs contained several flying-fish and small +cuttlefish, all of which I saved to be divided for dinner. + +We passed much drift wood, and saw many birds; I therefore did not +hesitate to pronounce that we were near the reefs of New Holland, and +assured every one I would make the coast without delay, in the parallel +we were in, and range the reef till I found an opening, through which we +might get into smooth water, and pick up some supplies. From my +recollection of captain Cook's survey of this coast, I considered the +direction of it to be N W, and I was therefore satisfied that, with the +wind to the southward of E, I could always clear any dangers. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 27.] + +At noon I observed in latitude 13° 26´ S; course since yesterday N 82° +W; distance 109 miles; longitude made 39° 4´ W. After writing my +account, I divided the two birds with their entrails, and the contents +of their maws, into 18 portions, and, as the prize was a very valuable +one, it was divided as before, by calling out Who shall have this? so +that to-day, with the allowance of a 25th of a pound of bread at +breakfast, and another at dinner, with the proportion of water, I was +happy to see that every person thought he had feasted. + +[Sidenote: Thursday 28.] + +Thursday, May the 28th. Fresh breezes and fair weather; wind E S E and +E. + +In the evening we saw a gannet; and the clouds remained so fixed in the +west, that I had little doubt of our being near to New Holland; and +every person, after taking his allowance of water for supper, began to +divert himself with conversing on the probability of what we should +find. + +At one in the morning the person at the helm heard the sound of +breakers, and I no sooner lifted up my head, than I saw them close under +our lee, not more than a quarter of a mile distant from us. I +immediately hauled on a wind to the N N E, and in ten minutes time we +could neither see nor hear them. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 28.] + +I have already mentioned my reason for making New Holland so far to the +southward; for I never doubted of numerous openings in the reef, through +which I could have access to the shore: and, knowing the inclination of +the coast to be to the N W, and the wind mostly to the southward of E, I +could with ease range such a barrier of reefs till I should find a +passage, which now became absolutely necessary, without a moment's loss +of time. The idea of getting into smooth water, and finding +refreshments, kept my people's spirits up: their joy was very great +after we had got clear of the breakers, to which we had been much +nearer than I thought was possible to be before we saw them. + +In the morning, at day-light, I bore away again for the reefs, and saw +them by nine o'clock. The sea broke furiously over every part, and I had +no sooner got near to them, than the wind came at E, so that we could +only lie along the line of the breakers, within which we saw the water +so smooth, that every person already anticipated the heart-felt +satisfaction he would receive, as soon as we could get within them. But +I now found we were embayed, for I could not lie clear with my sails, +the wind having backed against us, and the sea set in so heavy towards +the reef that our situation was become dangerous. We could effect but +little with the oars, having scarce strength to pull them; and it was +becoming every minute more and more probable that we should be obliged +to attempt pushing over the reef, in case we could not pull off. Even +this I did not despair of effecting with success, when happily we +discovered a break in the reef, about one mile from us, and at the same +time an island of a moderate height within it, nearly in the same +direction, bearing W 1/2 N. I entered the passage with a strong stream +running to the westward; and found it about a quarter of a mile broad, +with every appearance of deep water. + +On the outside, the reef inclined to the N E for a few miles, and from +thence to the N W; on the south side of the entrance, it inclined to the +S S W as far as I could see it; and I conjecture that a similar passage +to this which we now entered, may be found near the breakers that I +first discovered, which are 23 miles S of this channel. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 28.] + +I did not recollect what latitude Providential channel[*] lies in, but +I considered it to be within a few miles of this, which is situate in +12° 51´ S latitude. + +[*] Providential Channel is in 12° 34´ S, longitude 143° 33´ E. + +Being now happily within the reefs, and in smooth water, I endeavoured +to keep near them to try for fish; but the tide set us to the N W; I +therefore bore away in that direction, and, having promised to land on +the first convenient spot we could find, all our past hardships seemed +already to be forgotten. + +At noon I had a good observation, by which our latitude was 12° 46´ S, +whence the foregoing situations may be considered as determined with +some exactness. The island first seen bore W S W five leagues. This, +which I have called the island Direction, will in fair weather always +shew the channel, from which it bears due W, and may be seen as soon as +the reefs, from a ship's mast-head: it lies in the latitude of 12° 51´ +S. These, however, are marks too small for a ship to hit, unless it can +hereafter be ascertained that passages through the reef are numerous +along the coast, which I am inclined to think they are, and then there +would be little risk if the wind was not directly on the shore. + +My longitude, made by dead reckoning, from the island Tofoa to our +passage through the reef, is 40° 10´ W. Providential channel, I imagine, +must lie very nearly under the same meridian with our passage; by which +it appears we had out-run our reckoning 1° 9´. + +We now returned God thanks for his gracious protection, and with much +content took our miserable allowance of a 25th of a pound of bread, and +a quarter of a pint of water, for dinner. + +[Sidenote: Friday 29.] + +Friday, May the 29th. Moderate breezes and fine weather, wind E S E. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 29.] + +As we advanced within the reefs, the coast began to shew itself very +distinctly, with a variety of high and low land; some parts of which +were covered with wood. In our way towards the shore we fell in with a +point of a reef, which is connected with that towards the sea, and here +I came to a grapnel, and tried to catch fish, but had no success. The +island Direction now bore S three or four leagues. Two islands lay about +four miles to the W by N, and appeared eligible for a resting-place, if +nothing more; but on my approach to the first I found it only a heap of +stones, and its size too inconsiderable to shelter the boat. I therefore +proceeded to the next, which was close to it and towards the main, +where, on the N W side, I found a bay and a fine sandy point to land at. +Our distance was about a quarter of a mile from a projecting part of the +main, bearing from S W by S, to N N W 3/4 W. I now landed to examine if +there were any signs of the natives being near us; but though I +discovered some old fire-places, I saw nothing to alarm me for our +situation during the night. Every one was anxious to find something to +eat, and I soon heard that there were oysters on the rocks, for the tide +was out; but it was nearly dark, and only a few could be gathered. I +determined therefore to wait till the morning, to know how to proceed, +and I consented that one half of us should sleep on shore, and the other +in the boat. We would gladly have made a fire, but, as we could not +accomplish it, we took our rest for the night, which happily was calm +and undisturbed. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 29.] + +The dawn of day brought greater strength and spirits to us than I +expected; for, notwithstanding every one was very weak, there appeared +strength sufficient remaining to make me conceive the most favourable +hopes of our being able to surmount the difficulties we might yet have +to encounter. + +As soon as I saw that there were not any natives immediately near us, I +sent out parties in search of supplies, while others were putting the +boat in order, that I might be ready to go to sea in case any unforeseen +cause might make it necessary. The first object of this work, that +demanded our attention, was the rudder: one of the gudgeons had come +out, in the course of the night, and was lost. This, if it had happened +at sea, would probably have been the cause of our perishing, as the +management of the boat could not have been so nicely preserved as these +very heavy seas required. I had often expressed my fears of this +accident, and, that we might be prepared for it, had taken the +precaution to have grummets fixed on each quarter of the boat for oars; +but even our utmost readiness in using them, I fear, would not have +saved us. It appears, therefore, a providential circumstance, that it +happened at this place, and was in our power to remedy the defect; for +by great good luck we found a large staple in the boat that answered the +purpose. + +The parties were now returned, highly rejoiced at having found plenty of +oysters and fresh water. I also had made a fire, by help of a small +magnifying glass, that I always carried about me, to read off the +divisions of my sextants; and, what was still more fortunate, among the +few things which had been thrown into the boat and saved, was a piece of +brimstone and a tinder-box, so that I secured fire for the future. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 29.] + +One of my people had been so provident as to bring away with him a +copper pot: it was by being in possession of this article that I was +enabled to make a proper use of the supply we found, for, with a +mixture of bread and a little pork, I made a stew that might have been +relished by people of more delicate appetites, of which each person +received a full pint. + +The general complaints of disease among us, were a dizziness in the +head, great weakness of the joints, and violent tenesmus, most of us +having had no evacuation by stool since we left the ship. I had +constantly a severe pain at my stomach; but none of our complaints were +alarming; on the contrary, every one retained marks of strength, that, +with a mind possessed of any fortitude, could bear more fatigue than I +hoped we had to undergo in our voyage to Timor. + +As I would not allow the people to expose themselves to the heat of the +sun, it being near noon, every one took his allotment of earth, shaded +by the bushes, for a short sleep. + +The oysters we found grew so fast to the rocks that it was with +difficulty they could be broke off, and at last we discovered it to be +the most expeditious way to open them where they were found. They were +very sizeable, and well tasted, and gave us great relief. To add to this +happy circumstance, in the hollow of the land there grew some wire +grass, which indicated a moist situation. On forcing a stick, about +three feet long, into the ground, we found water, and with little +trouble dug a well, which produced as much as we were in need of. It was +very good, but I could not determine if it was a spring or not. Our +wants made it not necessary to make the well deep, for it flowed as fast +as we emptied it; which, as the soil was apparently too loose to retain +water from the rains, renders it probable to be a spring. It lies about +200 yards to the S E of a point in the S W part of the island. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 29.] + +I found evident signs of the natives resorting to this island; for, +besides fire-places, I saw two miserable wigwams, having only one side +loosely covered. We found a pointed stick, about three feet long, with a +slit in the end of it, to sling stones with, the same as the natives of +Van Diemen's land use. + +The track of some animal was very discernible, and Mr. Nelson agreed +with me that it was the Kanguroo; but how these animals can get from the +main I know not, unless brought over by the natives to breed, that they +may take them with more ease, and render a supply of food certain to +them; as on the continent the catching of them may be precarious, or +attended with great trouble, in so large an extent of country. + +The island may be about two miles in circuit; it is a high lump of rocks +and stones covered with wood; but the trees are small, the soil, which +is very indifferent and sandy, being barely sufficient to produce them. +The trees that came within our knowledge were the manchineal and a +species of purow: also some palm-trees, the tops of which we cut down, +and the soft interior part or heart of them was so palatable that it +made a good addition to our mess. Mr. Nelson discovered some fern-roots, +which I thought might be good roasted, as a substitute for bread, but it +proved a very poor one: it however was very good in its natural state to +allay thirst, and on that account I directed a quantity to be collected +to take into the boat. Many pieces of cocoa-nut shells and husk were +found about the shore, but we could find no cocoa-nut trees, neither did +I see any like them on the main. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 29.] + +I had cautioned every one not to touch any kind of berry or fruit that +they might find; yet they were no sooner out of my sight than they +began to make free with three different kinds, that grew all over the +island, eating without any reserve. The symptoms of having eaten too +much, began at last to frighten same of them; but on questioning others, +who had taken a more moderate allowance, their minds were a little +quieted. The others, however, became equally alarmed in their turn, +dreading that such symptoms would come on, and that they were all +poisoned, so that they regarded each other with the strongest marks of +apprehension, uncertain what would be the issue of their imprudence. +Happily the fruit proved wholesome and good. One sort grew on a small +delicate kind of vine; they were the size of a large gooseberry, and +very like in substance, but had only a sweet taste; the skin was a pale +red, streaked with yellow the long way of the fruit: it was pleasant and +agreeable. Another kind grew on bushes, like that which is called the +sea-side grape in the West Indies; but the fruit was very different, and +more like elder-berries, growing in clusters in the same manner. The +third sort was a black berry, not in such plenty as the others, and +resembled a bullace, or large kind of sloe, both in size and taste. +Seeing these fruits eaten by the birds made me consider them fit for +use, and those who had already tried the experiment, not finding any bad +effect, made it a certainty that we might eat of them without danger. + +Wild pigeons, parrots, and other birds, were about the summit of the +island, but, as I had no fire-arms, relief of that kind was not to be +expected, unless I met with some unfrequented spot where we might take +them with our hands. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 29.] + +On the south side of the island, and about half a mile from the well, a +small run of water was found; but, as its source was not traced, I know +nothing more of it. + +The shore of this island is very rocky, except the part we landed at, +and here I picked up many pieces of pumice-stone. On the part of the +main next to us were several sandy bays, but at low-water they became an +extensive rocky flat. The country had rather a barren appearance, except +in a few places where it was covered with wood. A remarkable range of +rocks lay a few miles to the S W, or a high peaked hill terminated the +coast towards the sea, with other high lands and islands to the +southward. A high fair cape showed the direction of the coast to the N +W, about seven leagues, and two small isles lay three or four leagues to +the northward. + +I saw a few bees or wasps, several lizards, and the blackberry bushes +were full of ants nests, webbed as a spider's, but so close and compact +as not to admit the rain. + +A trunk of a tree, about 50 feet long, lay on the beach; from whence I +conclude a heavy sea runs in here with the northerly winds. + +This being the day of the restoration of king Charles the Second, and +the name not being inapplicable to our present situation (for we were +restored to fresh life and strength), I named this Restoration Island; +for I thought it probable that captain Cook might not have taken notice +of it. The other names I have presumed to give the different parts of +the coast, will be only to show my route a little more distinctly. + +At noon I found the latitude of the island to be 12° 39´ S; our course +having been N 66° W; distance 18 miles from yesterday noon. + +[Sidenote: Saturday 30.] + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 30.] + +Saturday, May the 30th. Very fine weather, and E S E winds. This +afternoon I sent parties out again to gather oysters, with which and +some of the inner part of the palm-top, we made another good stew for +supper, each person receiving a full pint and a half; but I refused +bread to this meal, for I considered our wants might yet be very great, +and as such I represented the necessity of saving our principal support +whenever it was in our power. + +At night we again divided, and one half of us slept on shore by a good +fire. In the morning I discovered a visible alteration in every one for +the better, and I sent them away again to gather oysters. I had now only +two pounds of pork left. This article, which I could not keep under lock +and key as I did the bread, had been pilfered by some inconsiderate +person, but every one most solemnly denied it; I therefore resolved to +put it out of their power for the future, by sharing what remained for +our dinner. While the party was out getting oysters, I got the boat in +readiness for sea, and filled all our water vessels, which amounted to +nearly 60 gallons. + +The party being returned, dinner was soon ready, and every one had as +good an allowance as they had for supper; for with the pork I gave an +allowance of bread; as I was determined forthwith to push on. As it was +not yet noon, I told every one that an exertion should be made to gather +as many oysters as possible for a sea store, as I was determined to sail +in the afternoon. + +At noon I again observed the latitude 12° 39´ S; it was then high-water, +the tide had risen three feet, but I could not be certain which way the +flood came from. I deduce the time of high-water at full and change to +be ten minutes past seven in the morning. + +[Sidenote: Sunday 31.] + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 31.] + +Sunday, May the 31st. Early in the afternoon, the people returned with +the few oysters they had time to pick up, and every thing was put into +the boat. I then examined the quantity of bread remaining, and found 38 +days allowance, according to the last mode of issuing a 25th of a pound +at breakfast and at dinner. + +Fair weather, and moderate breezes at E S E and S E. + +Being all ready for sea, I directed every person to attend prayers, and +by four o'clock we were preparing to embark; when twenty natives +appeared, running and holloaing to us, on the opposite shore. They were +armed with a spear or lance, and a short weapon which they carried in +their left hand: they made signs for us to come to them. On the top of +the hills we saw the heads of many more; whether these were their wives +and children, or others who waited for our landing, until which they +meant not to show themselves, lest we might be intimidated, I cannot +say; but, as I found we were discovered to be on the coast, I thought it +prudent to make the best of my way, for fear of canoes; though, from the +accounts of captain Cook, the chance was that there were very few or +none of any consequence. I passed these people as near as I could, which +was within a quarter of a mile; they were naked, and apparently black, +and their hair or wool bushy and short. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 31.] + +I directed my course within two small islands that lie to the north of +Restoration Island, passing between them and the main land, towards Fair +Cape, with a strong tide in my favour; so that I was abreast of it by +eight o'clock. The coast I had passed was high and woody. As I could see +no land without Fair Cape, I concluded that the coast inclined to the N +W and W N W, which was agreeable to my recollection of captain Cook's +survey. I therefore steered more towards the W; but by eleven o'clock at +night I found myself mistaken: for we met with low land, which inclined +to the N E; so that at three o'clock in the morning I found we were +embayed, which obliged us to stand back to the southward. + +At day-break I was exceedingly surprised to find the appearance of the +country all changed, as if in the course of the night I had been +transported to another part of the world; for we had now a miserable low +sandy coast in view, with very little verdure, or any thing to indicate +that it was at all habitable to a human being, if I except some patches +of small trees or brush-wood. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 31.] + +I had many small islands in view to the N E, about six miles distant. +The E part of the main bore N four miles, and Fair Cape S S E five or +six leagues. I took the channel between the nearest island and the main +land, about one mile apart, leaving all the islands on the starboard +side. Some of these were very pretty spots, covered with wood, and well +situated for fishing; large shoals of fish were about us, but we could +not catch any. As I was passing this strait we saw another party of +Indians, seven in number, running towards us, shouting and making signs +for us to land. Some of them waved green branches of the bushes which +were near them, as a sign of friendship; but there were some of their +other motions less friendly. A larger party we saw a little farther off, +and coming towards us. I therefore determined not to land, though I +wished much to have had some intercourse with these people; for which +purpose I beckoned to them to come near to me, and laid the boat close +to the rocks; but not one would come within 200 yards of us. They were +armed in the same manner as those I had seen from Restoration Island, +were stark naked, and appeared to be jet black, with short bushy hair +or wool, and in every respect the same people. An island of good height +now bore N 1/2 W, four miles from us, at which I resolved to see what +could be got, and from thence to take a look at the coast. At this isle +I landed about eight o'clock in the morning. The shore was rocky, with +some sandy beaches within the rocks: the water, however, was smooth, and +I landed without difficulty. I sent two parties out, one to the +northward, and the other to the southward, to seek for supplies, and +others I ordered to stay by the boat. On this occasion their fatigue and +weakness so far got the better of their sense of duty, that some of them +began to mutter who had done most, and declared they would rather be +without their dinner than go in search of it. One person, in particular, +went so far as to tell me, with a mutinous look, he was as good a man as +myself. It was not possible for me to judge where this might have an +end, if not stopped in time; I therefore determined to strike a final +blow at it, and either to preserve my command, or die in the attempt: +and, seizing a cutlass, I ordered him to take hold of another and defend +himself; on which he called out I was going to kill him, and began to +make concessions. I did not allow this to interfere further with the +harmony of the boat's crew, and every thing soon became quiet. + +The parties continued collecting what could be found, which consisted of +some fine oysters and clams, and a few small dog-fish that were caught +in the holes of the rocks. We also found about two tons of rain-water in +the hollow of the rocks, on the north part of the island, so that of +this essential article we were again so happy as not to be in want. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 31.] + +After regulating the mode of proceeding, I set off for the highest part +of the island, to see and consider of my route for the night. To my +surprise I could see no more of the main than I did from below, it +extending only from S 1/2 E, four miles, to W by N, about three leagues, +full of sand-hills. Besides the isles to the E S E and south, that I had +seen before, I could only discover a small key N W by N. As this was +considerably farther from the main than where I was at present, I +resolved to get there by night, it being a more secure resting-place; +for I was here open to an attack, if the Indians had canoes, as they +undoubtedly observed my landing. My mind being made up on this point, I +returned, taking a particular look at the spot I was on, which I found +only to produce a few bushes and coarse grass, and the extent of the +whole not two miles in circuit. On the north side, in a sandy bay, I saw +an old canoe, about 33 feet long, lying bottom upwards, and half buried +in the beach. It was made of three pieces, the bottom entire, to which +the sides were sewed in the common way. It had a sharp projecting prow +rudely carved, in resemblance of the head of a fish; the extreme breadth +was about three feet, and I imagine it was capable of carrying 20 men. + +At noon the parties were all returned, but had found difficulty in +gathering the oysters, from their close adherence to the rocks, and the +clams were scarce: I therefore saw, that it would be of little use to +remain longer in this place, as we should not be able to collect more +than we could eat; nor could any tolerable sea-store be expected, unless +we fell in with a greater plenty. I named this Sunday Island: it lies N +by W 3/4 W from Restoration Island; the latitude, by a good observation, +11° 58´ S. + +[Sidenote: JUNE. Monday 1.] + +Monday, June the 1st. Fresh breezes and fair weather, ending with a +fresh gale. Wind S E by S. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 1.] + +At two o'clock in the afternoon, we dined; each person having a full +pint and a half of stewed oysters and clams, thickened with small beans, +which Mr. Nelson informed us were a species of Dolichos. Having eaten +heartily, and taken the water we were in want of, I only waited to +determine the time of high-water, which I found to be at three o'clock, +and the rise of the tide about five feet. According to this it is +high-water on the full and change at 19 minutes past 9 in the morning; +but here I observed the flood to come from the southward, though at +Restoration Island, I thought it came from the northward. I think +captain Cook mentions that he found great irregularity in the set of the +flood on this coast. + +I now sailed for the key which I had seen in the N W by N, giving the +name of Sunday Island to the place I left; we arrived just at dark, but +found it so surrounded by a reef of rocks, that I could not land without +danger of staving the boat; and on that account I came to a grapnel for +the night. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 1.] + +At dawn of day we got on shore, and tracked the boat into shelter; for +the wind blowing fresh without, and the ground being rocky, I was afraid +to trust her at a grapnel, lest she might be blown to sea: I was, +therefore, obliged to let her ground in the course of the ebb. From +appearances, I expected that if we remained till night we should meet +with turtle, as we had already discovered recent tracks of them. +Innumerable birds of the noddy kind made this island their +resting-place; so that I had reason to flatter myself with hopes of +getting supplies in greater abundance than it had hitherto been in my +power. The situation was at least four leagues distant from the main. We +were on the north-westernmost of four small keys, which were surrounded +by a reef of rocks connected by sand-banks, except between the two +northernmost; and there likewise it was dry at low water; the whole +forming a lagoon island, into which the tide flowed: at this entrance I +kept the boat. + +As usual, I sent parties away in search of supplies, but, to our great +disappointment, we could only get a few clams and some dolichos: with +these, and the oysters we had brought from Sunday Island, I made up a +mess for dinner, with an addition of a small quantity of bread. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 1.] + +Towards noon, Mr. Nelson, and his party, who had been to the easternmost +key, returned; but himself in such a weak condition, that he was obliged +to be supported by two men. His complaint was a violent heat in his +bowels, a loss of sight, much drought, and an inability to walk. This I +found was occasioned by his being unable to support the heat of the sun, +and that, when he was fatigued and faint, instead of retiring into the +shade to rest, he had continued to do more than his strength was equal +to. It was a great satisfaction to me to find, that he had no fever; and +it was now that the little wine, which I had so carefully saved became +of real use. I gave it in very small quantities, with some small pieces +of bread soaked in it; and, having pulled off his cloaths, and laid him +under some shady bushes, he began to recover. The boatswain and +carpenter also were ill, and complained of head-ach, and sickness of the +stomach; others, who had not had any evacuation by stool, became +shockingly distressed with the tenesmus; so that there were but few +without complaints. An idea now prevailed, that their illness was +occasioned by eating the dolichos, and some were so much alarmed that +they thought themselves poisoned. Myself, however, and some others, who +had eaten of them, were yet very well; but the truth was, that all those +who were complaining, except Mr. Nelson, had gorged themselves with a +large quantity of raw beans, and Mr. Nelson informed me, that they were +constantly teazing him, whenever a berry was found, to know if it was +good to eat; so that it would not have been surprizing if many of them +had been really poisoned. + +Our dinner was not so well relished as at Sunday Island, because we had +mixed the dolichos with our stew. The oysters and soup, however, were +eaten by every one, except Mr. Nelson, whom I fed with a few small +pieces of bread soaked in half a glass of wine, and he continued to +mend. + +In my walk round the island, I found several cocoa-nut shells, the +remains of an old wigwam, and the backs of two turtle, but no sign of +any quadruped. One of my people found three sea-fowl's eggs. + +As is common on such spots, the soil is little other than sand, yet it +produced small toa-trees, and some others, that we were not acquainted +with. There were fish in the lagoon, but we could not catch any. As our +wants, therefore, were not likely to be supplied here, not even with +water for our daily expence, I determined to sail in the morning, after +trying our success in the night for turtle and birds. A quiet night's +rest also, I conceived, would be of essential service to those who were +unwell. + +From the wigwam and turtle-shell being found, it is certain that the +natives sometimes resort to this place, and have canoes: but I did not +apprehend that we ran any risk by remaining here. I directed our fire, +however, to be made in the thicket, that we might not be discovered in +the night. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 1.] + +At noon, I observed the latitude of this island to be 11° 47´ S. The +main land extended towards the N W, and was full of white sand-hills: +another small island lay within us, bearing W by N 1/4 N, three leagues +distant. My situation being very low, I could see nothing of the reef +towards the sea. + +[Sidenote: Tuesday 2.] + +Tuesday, June the 2d. The first part of this day we had some light +showers of rain; the latter part was fair, wind from the S E, blowing +fresh. + +Rest was now so much wanted, that the afternoon was advantageously spent +in sleep. There were, however, a few not disposed to it, and those I +employed in dressing some clams to take with us for the next day's +dinner; others we cut up in slices to dry, which I knew was the most +valuable supply we could find here. But, contrary to our expectation, +they were very scarce. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 2.] + +Towards evening, I cautioned every one against making too large a fire, +or suffering it after dark to blaze up. Mr. Samuel and Mr. Peckover had +the superintendence of this business, while I was strolling about the +beach to observe if I thought it could be seen from the main. I was just +satisfied that it could not, when on a sudden the island appeared all in +a blaze, that might have been seen at a much more considerable distance. +I ran to learn the cause, and found it was occasioned by the imprudence +and obstinacy of one of the party, who, in my absence, had insisted on +having a fire to himself; in making which the flames caught the +neighbouring grass and rapidly spread. This misconduct might have +produced very serious consequences, by discovering our situation to the +natives; for, if they had attacked us, we must inevitably have fallen a +sacrifice, as we had neither arms nor strength to oppose an enemy. Thus +the relief which I expected from a little sleep was totally lost, and I +anxiously waited for the flowing of the tide, that we might proceed to +sea. + +I found it high-water at half past five this evening, whence I deduce +the time, on the full and change of the moon, to be 58' past 10 in the +morning: the rise is nearly five feet. I could not observe the set of +the flood; but imagine it comes from the southward, and that I have been +mistaken at Restoration Island, as I find the time of high-water +gradually later as we advance to the northward. + +At Restoration Island, high water, full and change, 7^h 10' +Sunday Island, 9 19 +Here, 10 58 + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 2.] + +After eight o'clock, Mr. Samuel and Mr. Peckover went out to watch for +turtle, and three men went to the east key to endeavour to catch birds. +All the others complaining of being sick, took their rest, except Mr. +Hayward and Mr. Elphinston, who I directed to keep watch. About midnight +the bird party returned, with only twelve noddies, a bird I have already +described to be about the size of a pigeon: but if it had not been for +the folly and obstinacy of one of the party, who separated from the +other two, and disturbed the birds, they might have caught a great +number. I was so much provoked at my plans being thus defeated, that I +gave the offender[*] a good beating. I now went in search of the +turtling party, who had taken great pains, but without success. This, +however, did not surprise me, as it was not to be expected that turtle +would come near us after the noise which was made at the beginning of +the evening in extinguishing the fire. I therefore desired them to come +back, but they requested to stay a little longer, as they still hoped to +find some before day-light: they, however, returned by three o'clock, +without any reward for their labour. + +[*] Robert Lamb.--This man, when he came to Java, acknowledged he had +eaten nine birds on the key, after he separated from the other two. + +The birds we half dressed, which, with a few clams, made the whole of +the supply procured here. I tied up a few gilt buttons and some pieces +of iron to a tree, for any of the natives that might come after us; and, +happily finding my invalids much better for their night's rest, I got +every one into the boat, and departed by dawn of day. Wind at S E; +course to the N by W. + +We had scarcely ran two leagues to the northward, when the sea suddenly +became rough, which not having experienced since we were within the +reefs, I concluded to be occasioned by an open channel to the ocean. +Soon afterwards we met with a large shoal, on which were two sandy keys; +between these and two others, four miles to the west, I passed on to the +northward, the sea still continuing to be rough. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 2.] + +Towards noon, I fell in with six other keys, most of which produced some +small trees and brush-wood. These formed a pleasing contrast with the +main land we had passed, which was full of sand-hills. The country +continued hilly, and the northernmost land, the same which we saw from +the lagoon island, appeared like downs, sloping towards the sea. To the +southward of this is a flat-topped hill, which, on account of its shape, +I called Pudding-pan hill, and a little to the northward two other +hills, which we called the Paps; and here was a small tract of country +without sand, the eastern part of which forms a cape, whence the coast +inclines to the N W by N. + +At noon I observed in the latitude of 11° 18´ S, the cape bearing W, +distant ten miles. Five small keys bore from N E to S E, the nearest of +them about two miles distant, and a low sandy key between us and the +cape bore W, distant four miles. My course from the Lagoon Island N 1/2 +W, distant 30 miles. + +I am sorry it was not in my power to obtain a sufficient knowledge of +the depth of water; for in our situation nothing could be undertaken +that might have occasioned delay. It may however be understood, that, to +the best of my judgment, from appearances, a ship may pass wherever I +have omitted to represent danger. + +I divided six birds, and issued one 25th of a pound of bread, with half +a pint of water, to each person for dinner, and I gave half a glass of +wine to Mr. Nelson, who was now so far recovered as to require no other +indulgence. + +The gunner, when he left the ship, brought his watch with him, by which +we had regulated our time till to-day, when unfortunately it stopped; so +that noon, sun-rise, and sun-set, are the only parts of the 24 hours of +which I can speak with certainty, as to time. + +[Sidenote: Wednesday 3.] + +Wednesday, June the 3d. Fresh gales S S E and S E, and fair weather. As +we stood to the N by W this afternoon, we found more sea, which I +attributed to our receiving less shelter from the reefs to the eastward: +it is probable they do not extend so far to the N as this; at least, it +may be concluded that there is not a continued barrier to prevent +shipping having access to the shore. I observed that the stream set to +the N W, which I considered to be the flood; in some places along the +coast, we saw patches of wood. At five o'clock, steering to the N W, we +passed a large and fair inlet, into which, I imagine, is a safe and +commodious entrance; it lies in latitude 11° S: about three leagues to +the northward of this is an island, at which we arrived about sun-set, +and took shelter for the night under a sandy point, which was the only +part we could land at: I was therefore under the necessity to put up +with rather a wild situation, and slept in the boat. Nevertheless I sent +a party away to see what could be got, but they returned without any +success. They saw a great number of turtle bones and shells, where the +natives had been feasting, and their last visit seemed to be of late +date. The island was covered with wood, but in other respects a lump of +rocks. We lay at a grapnel until day-light, with a very fresh gale and +cloudy weather. The main bore from S E by S to N N W 1/2 W, three +leagues; and a mountainous island, with a flat top, N by W, four or five +leagues: several others were between it and the main. The spot we were +on, which I call Turtle Island; lies in latitude, by account, 10° 52´ S, +and 42 miles W from Restoration Island. Abreast of it the coast has the +appearance of a sandy desert, but improves about three leagues farther +to the northward, where it terminates in a point, near to which is a +number of small islands. I sailed between these islands, where I found +no bottom at twelve fathoms; the high mountainous island with a flat +top, and four rocks to the S E of it, that I call the Brothers, being on +my starboard hand. Soon after, an extensive opening appeared in the main +land, with a number of high islands in it. I called this the Bay of +Islands. We continued steering to the N W. Several islands and keys lay +to the northward. The most northerly island was mountainous, having on +it a very high round hill; and a smaller was remarkable for a single +peaked hill. + +The coast to the northward and westward of the Bay of Islands had a very +different appearance from that to the southward. It was high and woody, +with many islands close to it, and had a very broken appearance. Among +these islands are fine bays, and convenient places for shipping. The +northernmost I call Wednesday Island: to the N W of this we fell in with +a large reef, which I believe joins a number of keys that were in sight +from the N W to the E N E. We now stood to the S W half a league, when +it was noon, and I had a good observation of the latitude in 10° 31´ S. +Wednesday Island bore E by S five miles; the westernmost land S W two or +three leagues; the islands to the northward, from N W by W four or five +leagues, to N E six leagues; and the reef from W to N E, distant one +mile, I now assured every one that we should be clear of New Holland in +the afternoon. + +It is impossible for me to say how far this reef may extend. It may be a +continuation, or a detached part of the range of shoals that surround +the coast: but be that as it may, I consider the mountainous islands as +separate from the shoals; and have no doubt that near them may be found +good passages for ships. But I rather recommend to those who are to pass +this strait from the eastward, to take their direction from the coast of +New Guinea: yet, I likewise think that a ship coming from the southward, +will find a fair strait in the latitude of 10° S. I much wished to have +ascertained this point; but in our distressful situation, any increase +of fatigue, or loss of time, might have been attended with the most +fatal consequences. I therefore determined to pass on without delay. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 3.] + +As an addition to our dinner of bread and water, I served to each person +six oysters. + +[Sidenote: Thursday 4.] + +Thursday, June the 4th. A fresh gale at S E, and fair weather. + +At two o'clock as we were steering to the S W, towards the westernmost +part of the land in sight, we fell in with some large sand-banks that +run off from the coast. We were therefore obliged to steer to the +northward again, and, having got round them, I directed my course to the +W. + +At four o'clock, the westernmost of the islands to the northward bore N +four leagues; Wednesday island E by N five leagues; and Shoal Cape S E by +E two leagues. A small island was now seen bearing W, at which I arrived +before dark, and found that it was only a rock, where boobies resort, +for which reason I called it Booby Island. A small key also lies close +to the W part of the coast, which I have called Shoal Cape. Here +terminated the rocks and shoals of the N part of New Holland, for, +except Booby Island, we could see no land to the westward of S, after +three o'clock this afternoon. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 4.] + +I find that Booby Island was seen by Captain Cook, and, by a remarkable +coincidence of ideas, received from him the same name; but I cannot with +certainty reconcile the situation of many parts of the coast that I have +seen, to his survey. I ascribe this to the very different form in which +land appears, when seen from the unequal heights of a ship and a boat. +The chart I have given, is by no means meant to supersede that made by +Captain Cook, who had better opportunities than I had, and was in every +respect properly provided for surveying. The intention of mine is +chiefly to render the narrative more intelligible, and to shew in what +manner the coast appeared to me from an open boat. I have little doubt +that the opening, which I named the Bay of Islands, is Endeavour +Straits; and that our track was to the northward of Prince of Wales's +Isles. Perhaps, by those who shall hereafter navigate these seas, more +advantage may be derived from the possession of both our charts, than +from either singly. + +At eight o'clock in the evening, we once more launched into the open +ocean. Miserable as our situation was in every respect, I was secretly +surprised to see that it did not appear to affect any one so strongly as +myself; on the contrary, it seemed as if they had embarked on a voyage +to Timor, in a vessel sufficiently calculated for safety and +convenience. So much confidence gave me great pleasure, and I may assert +that to this cause their preservation is chiefly to be attributed; for +if any one of them had despaired, he would most probably have died +before we reached New Holland. + +I now gave every one hopes that eight or ten days might bring us to a +land of safety; and, after praying to God for a continuance of his most +gracious protection, I served an allowance of water for supper, and kept +my course to the W S W, to counteract the southerly winds, in case they +should blow strong. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 4.] + +We had been just six days on the coast of New Holland, in the course of +which we found oysters, a few clams, some birds, and water. But perhaps +a benefit nearly equal to this we received from not having fatigue in +the boat, and enjoying good rest at night. These advantages certainly +preserved our lives; for, small as the supply was, I am very sensible +how much it relieved our distresses. About this time nature would have +sunk under the extremes of hunger and fatigue. Some would have ceased to +struggle for a life that only promised wretchedness and misery; while +others, though possessed of more bodily strength, must soon have +followed their unfortunate companions. Even in our present situation, we +were most wretched spectacles; yet our fortitude and spirit remained; +every one being encouraged by the hopes of a speedy termination to his +misery. + +For my own part, wonderful as it may appear, I felt neither extreme +hunger nor thirst. My allowance contented me, knowing I could have no +more. + +I served one 25th of a pound of bread, and an allowance of water, for +breakfast, and the same for dinner, with an addition of six oysters to +each person. At noon, latitude observed 10° 48´ S; course since +yesterday noon S 81 W; distance 111 miles; longitude, by account, from +Shoal Cape 1° 45´ W. + +[Sidenote: Friday 5.] + +Friday, June the 5th. Fair weather with some showers, and a strong trade +wind at E S E. + +This day we saw a number of water-snakes, that were ringed yellow and +black, and towards noon we passed a great deal of rock-weed. Though the +weather was fair, we were constantly shipping water, and two men always +employed to bale the boat. + +At noon I observed in latitude 10° 45´ S; our course since yesterday W +1/4 N, 108 miles; longitude made 3° 35´ W. Served one 25th of a pound of +bread, and a quarter of a pint of water for breakfast; the same for +dinner, with an addition of six oysters; for supper water only. + +[Sidenote: Saturday 6.] + +Saturday, June the 6th. Fair weather, with some showers, and a fresh +gale at S E and E S E. Constantly shipping water and baling. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 6.] + +In the evening a few boobies came about us, one of which I caught with +my hand. The blood was divided among three of the men who were weakest, +but the bird I ordered to be kept for our dinner the next day. Served a +quarter of a pint of water for supper, and to some, who were most in +need, half a pint. + +In the course of the night we suffered much cold and shiverings. At +day-light, I found that some of the clams, which had been hung up to dry +for sea-store, were stolen; but every one most solemnly denied having +any knowledge of it. This forenoon we saw a gannet, a sand-lark, and +some water-snakes, which in general were from two to three feet long. + +Served the usual allowance of bread and water for breakfast, and the +same for dinner, with the bird, which I distributed in the usual way, of +Who shall have this? I determined to make Timor about the latitude of 9° +30´ S, or 10° S. At noon I observed the latitude to be 10° 19´ S; course +N 77° W; distance 117 miles; longitude made from the Shoal Cape, the +north part of New Holland, 5° 31´ W. + +[Sidenote: Sunday 7.] + +Sunday, June the 7th. Fresh gales and fair weather till eight in the +evening. The remaining part of the 24 hours squally, with much wind at S +S E and E S E, and a high sea, so that we were constantly wet and +baling. + +In the afternoon, I took an opportunity of examining again into our +store of bread, and found remaining 19 days allowance, at my former rate +of serving one 25th of a pound three times a day: therefore, as I saw +every prospect of a quick passage, I again ventured to grant an +allowance for supper, agreeable to my promise at the time it was +discontinued. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 7.] + +We passed the night miserably wet and cold, and in the morning I heard +heavy complaints of our deplorable situation. The sea was high and +breaking over us. I could only afford the allowance of bread and water +for breakfast; but for dinner I gave out an ounce of dried clams to each +person, which was all that remained. + +At noon I altered the course to the W N W, to keep more from the sea +while it blew so strong. Latitude observed 9° 31´ S; course N 57° W; +distance 88 miles; longitude made 6° 46´ W. + +[Sidenote: Monday 8.] + +Monday, June the 8th. Fresh gales and squally weather, with some showers +of rain. Wind E and E S E. + +This day the sea ran very high, and we were continually wet, suffering +much cold in the night. I now remarked that Mr. Ledward, the surgeon, +and Lawrence Lebogue, an old hardy seaman, were giving way very fast. I +could only assist them by a tea-spoonful or two of wine, which I had +carefully saved, expecting such a melancholy necessity. Among most of +the others I observed more than a common inclination to sleep, which +seemed to indicate that nature was almost exhausted. + +Served the usual allowance of bread and water at supper, breakfast, and +dinner. Saw several gannets. + +At noon I observed in 8° 45´ S; course W N W 1/4 W, 106 miles; longitude +made 8° 23´ W. + +[Sidenote: Tuesday 9.] + +Tuesday, June the 9th. Wind S E. The weather being moderate, I steered W +by S. + +[Sidenote: 1789 JUNE 9.] + +At four in the afternoon we caught a small dolphin, the first relief of +the kind we obtained. I issued about two ounces to each person, +including the offals, and saved the remainder for dinner the next day. +Towards evening the wind freshened, and it blew strong all night, so +that we shipped much water, and suffered greatly from the wet and cold. +At day-light, as usual, I heard much complaining, which my own feelings +convinced me was too well founded. I gave the surgeon and Lebogue a +little wine, but I could give no farther relief, than assurances that a +very few days longer, at our present fine rate of sailing, would bring +us to Timor. + +Gannets, boobies, men of war and tropic birds, were constantly about us. +Served the usual allowance of bread and water, and at noon dined on the +remains of the dolphin, which amounted to about an ounce per man. I +observed the latitude to be 9° 9´ S; longitude made 10° 8´ W; course +since yesterday noon S 76° W; distance 107 miles. + +[Sidenote: Wednesday 10.] + +Wednesday, June the 10th. Wind E S E. Fresh gales and fair weather, but +a continuance of much sea, which, by breaking almost constantly over the +boat, made us miserably wet, and we had much cold to endure in the +night. + +This afternoon I suffered great sickness from the oily nature of part of +the stomach of the fish, which had fallen to my share at dinner. At +sun-set I served an allowance of bread and water for supper. In the +morning, after a very bad night, I could see an alteration for the worse +in more than half my people. The usual allowance was served for +breakfast and dinner. At noon I found our situation to be in latitude 9° +16´ S; longitude from the north part of New Holland 12° 1´ W; course +since yesterday noon W 1/2 S, distance 111 miles. + +[Sidenote: Thursday 11.] + +Thursday, June the 11th. Fresh gales and fair weather. Wind S E and S S +E. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 11.] + +Birds and rock-weed showed that we were not far from land; but I +expected such signs must be here, as there are many islands between the +east part of Timor and New Guinea. I however hoped to fall in with Timor +every hour, for I had great apprehensions that some of my people could +not hold out. An extreme weakness, swelled legs, hollow and ghastly +countenances, great propensity to sleep, with an apparent debility of +understanding, seemed to me melancholy presages of their approaching +dissolution. The surgeon and Lebogue, in particular were most miserable +objects. I occasionally gave them a few tea-spoonfuls of wine, out of +the little I had saved for this dreadful stage, which no doubt greatly +helped to support them. + +For my own part, a great share of spirits, with the hopes of being able +to accomplish the voyage, seemed to be my principal support; but the +boatswain very innocently told me, that he really thought I looked worse +than any one in the boat. The simplicity with which he uttered such an +opinion diverted me, and I had good humour enough to return him a better +compliment. + +Every one received his 25th of a pound of bread, and quarter of a pint +of water, at evening, morning, and noon, and an extra allowance of water +was given to those who desired it. + +At noon I observed in latitude 9° 41´ S; course S 77° W; distance 109 +miles; longitude made 13° 49´ W. I had little doubt of having now passed +the meridian of the eastern part of Timor, which is laid down in 128° E. +This diffused universal joy and satisfaction. + +[Sidenote: Friday 12.] + +Friday, June the 12th. Fresh breezes and fine weather, but very hazy. +Wind from E to S E. + +All the afternoon we had several gannets, and many other birds, about +us, that indicated we were near land, and at sun-set we kept a very +anxious look-out. In the evening we caught a booby, which I reserved for +our dinner the next day. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 12.] + +At three in the morning, with an excess of joy, we discovered Timor +bearing from W S W to W N W, and I hauled on a wind to the N N E till +day-light, when the land bore from S W by S about two leagues to N E by +N seven leagues. + +It is not possible for me to describe the pleasure which the blessing of +the sight of land diffused among us. It appeared scarce credible, that +in an open boat, and so poorly provided, we should have been able to +reach the coast of Timor in forty-one days after leaving Tofoa, having +in that time run, by our log, a distance of 3618 miles, and that, +notwithstanding our extreme distress, no one should have perished in the +voyage. + +I have already mentioned, that I knew not where the Dutch settlement was +situated; but I had a faint idea that it was at the S W part of the +island. I therefore, after day-light, bore away along shore to the S S +W, and the more readily as the wind would not suffer us to go towards +the N E without great loss of time. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 12.] + +The day gave us a most agreeable prospect of the land, which was +interspersed with woods and lawns; the interior part mountainous, but +the shore low. Towards noon the coast became higher, with some +remarkable head-lands. We were greatly delighted with the general look +of the country, which exhibited many cultivated spots and beautiful +situations; but we could only see a few small huts, whence I concluded +no European resided in this part of the island. Much sea ran on the +shore, so that landing with a boat was impracticable. At noon I was +abreast of a very high head-land; the extremes of the land bore S W 1/2 +W, and N N E 1/2 E; our distance off shore being three miles; latitude, +by observation, 9° 59´ S; and my longitude, by dead reckoning, from the +north part of New Holland, 15° 6´ W. + +With the usual allowance of bread and water for dinner, I divided the +bird we had caught the night before, and to the surgeon and Lebogue I +gave a little wine. + +[Sidenote: Saturday 13.] + +Saturday, June the 13th. Fresh gales at E, and E S E, with very hazy +weather. + +During the afternoon, we continued our course along a low woody shore, +with innumerable palm-trees, called the Fan Palm from the leaf spreading +like a fan; but we had now lost all signs of cultivation, and the +country had not so fine an appearance as it had to the eastward. This, +however, was only a small tract, for by sun-set it improved again, and I +saw several great smokes where the inhabitants were clearing and +cultivating their grounds. We had now ran 25 miles to the W S W since +noon, and were W five miles from a low point, which in the afternoon I +imagined had been the southernmost land, and here the coast formed a +deep bend, with low land in the bight that appeared like islands. The +west shore was high; but from this part of the coast to the high cape +which we were abreast of yesterday noon, the shore is low, and I believe +shoal. I particularly remark this situation, because here the very high +ridge of mountains, that run from the east end of the island, terminate, +and the appearance of the country suddenly changes for the worse, as if +it was not the same island in any respect. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 13.] + +That we might not run past any settlement in the night, I determined to +preserve my station till the morning, and therefore hove to under a +close-reefed fore-sail, with which the boat lay very quiet. We were here +in shoal water; our distance from the shore being half a league, the +westernmost land in sight bearing W S W 1/2 W. Served bread and water +for supper, and the boat lying too very well, all but the officer of the +watch endeavoured to get a little sleep. + +At two in the morning, we wore, and stood in shore till day-light, when +I found we had drifted, during the night, about three leagues to the W S +W, the southernmost land in sight bearing W. On examining the coast, and +not seeing any sign of a settlement, we bore away to the westward, +having a strong gale, against a weather current, which occasioned much +sea. The shore was high and covered with wood, but we did not run far +before low land again formed the coast, the points of which opening at +west, I once more fancied we were on the south part of the island; but +at ten o'clock we found the coast again inclining towards the south, +part of it bearing W S W 1/2 W. At the same time high land appeared from +S W to S W by W 1/2 W; but the weather was so hazy, that it was doubtful +whether the two lands were separated, the opening only extending one +point of the compass. I, for this reason, stood towards the outer land, +and found it to be the island Roti. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 13.] + +I returned to the shore I had left, and in a sandy bay I brought to a +grapnel, that I might more conveniently calculate my situation. In this +place we saw several smokes, where the natives were clearing their +grounds. During the little time we remained here, the master and +carpenter very much importuned me to let them go in search of supplies; +to which, at length, I assented; but, finding no one willing to be of +their party, they did not choose to quit the boat. I stopped here no +longer than for the purpose just mentioned, and we continued steering +along shore. We had a view of a beautiful-looking country, as if formed +by art into lawns and parks. The coast is low, and covered with woods, +in which are innumerable fan palm-trees, that look like cocoa-nut walks. +The interior part is high land, but very different from the more eastern +parts of the island, where it is exceedingly mountainous, and to +appearance the soil better. + +At noon, the island Roti bore S W by W seven leagues. I had no +observation for the latitude, but, by account, we were in 10° 12´ S; our +course since yesterday noon being S 77 W, 54 miles. The usual allowance +of bread and water was served for breakfast and dinner, and to the +surgeon and Lebogue, I gave a little wine. + +[Sidenote: Sunday 14.] + +Sunday, June the 14th. A strong gale at E S E, with hazy weather, all +the afternoon; after which the wind became moderate. + +At two o'clock this afternoon, having run through a very dangerous +breaking sea, the cause of which I attributed to a strong tide setting to +windward, and shoal water, we discovered a spacious bay or sound, with a +fair entrance about two or three miles wide. I now conceived hopes that +our voyage was nearly at an end, as no place could appear more eligible +for shipping, or more likely to be chosen for an European settlement: I +therefore came to a grapnel near the east side of the entrance, in a +small sandy bay, where we saw a hut, a dog, and some cattle; and I +immediately sent the boatswain and gunner away to the hut, to discover +the inhabitants. + +The S W point of the entrance bore W 1/2 S three miles; the S E point S +by W three quarters of a mile; and the island Roti from S by W 1/4 W to +S W 1/4 W, about five leagues. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 14.] + +While we lay here I found the ebb came from the northward, and before +our departure the falling of the tide discovered to us a reef of rocks, +about two cables length from the shore; the whole being covered at +high-water, renders it dangerous. On the opposite shore also appeared +very high breakers; but there is nevertheless plenty of room, and +certainly a safe channel for a first-rate man of war. + +The bay or sound within, seemed to be of a considerable extent; the +northern part, which I had now in view, being about five leagues +distant. Here the land made in moderate risings joined by lower grounds. +But the island Roti, which lies to the southward, is the best mark to +know this place. + +I had just time to make these remarks, when I saw the boatswain and +gunner returning with some of the natives. I therefore no longer doubted +of our success, and that our most sanguine expectations would be fully +gratified. They brought five Indians, and informed me that they had +found two families, where the women treated them with European +politeness. From these people I learned, that the governor resided at a +place called Coupang, which was some distance to the N E. I made signs +for one of them to go in the boat, and show me Coupang, intimating that +I would pay him for his trouble; the man readily complied, and came into +the boat. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 14.] + +These people were of a dark tawny colour, and had long black hair; they +chewed a great deal of beetle, and wore a square piece of cloth round +their hips, in the folds of which was stuck a large knife. They had a +handkerchief wrapped round their heads, and at their shoulders hung +another tied by the four corners, which served as a bag for their beetle +equipage. + +They brought us a few pieces of dried turtle, and some ears of Indian +corn. This last was most welcome to us; for the turtle was so hard, that +it could not be eaten without being first soaked in hot water. Had I +staid they would have brought us something more; but, as the pilot was +willing, I was determined to push on. It was about half an hour past +four when we sailed. + +By direction of the pilot we kept close to the east shore under all our +sail; but as night came on, the wind died away, and we were obliged to +try at the oars, which I was surprised to see we could use with some +effect. However, at ten o'clock, as I found we got but little ahead, I +came to a grapnel, and for the first time I issued double allowance of +bread and a little wine to each person. + +At one o'clock in the morning, after the most happy and sweet sleep that +ever men had, we weighed, and continued to keep the east shore on board, +in very smooth water; when at last I found we were again open to the +sea, the whole of the land to the westward, that we had passed, being an +island, which the pilot called Pulo Samow. The northern entrance of this +channel is about a mile and a half or two miles wide, and I had no +ground at ten fathoms. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 14.] + +Hearing the report of two cannon that were fired, gave new life to every +one; and soon after we discovered two square-rigged vessels and a cutter +at anchor to the eastward. I endeavoured to work to windward, but we +were obliged to take to our oars again, having lost ground on each tack. +We kept close to the shore, and continued rowing till four o'clock, when +I brought to a grapnel, and gave another allowance of bread and wine to +all hands. As soon as we had rested a little, we weighed again, and +rowed till near day-light, when I came to a grapnel, off a small fort +and town, which the pilot told me was Coupang. + +Among the things which the boatswain had thrown into the boat before we +left the ship, was a bundle of signal flags that had been made for the +boats to show the depth of water in sounding; with these I had, in the +course of the passage, made a small jack, which I now hoisted in the +main shrouds, as a signal of distress; for I did not choose to land +without leave. + +Soon after day-break a soldier hailed me to land, which I instantly did, +among a croud of Indians, and was agreeably surprised to meet with an +English sailor, who belonged to one of the vessels in the road. His +captain, he told me, was the second person in the town; I therefore +desired to be conducted to him, as I was informed the governor was ill, +and could not then be spoken with. + +Captain Spikerman received me with great humanity. I informed him of our +miserable situation; and requested that care might be taken of those who +were with me, without delay. On which he gave directions for their +immediate reception at his own house, and went himself to the governor, +to know at what time I could be permitted to see him; which was fixed to +be at eleven o'clock. + +I now desired every one to come on shore, which was as much as some of +them could do, being scarce able to walk: they, however, got at last to +the house, and found tea with bread and butter provided for their +breakfast. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 14.] + +The abilities of a painter, perhaps, could never have been displayed to +more advantage than in the delineation of the two groups of figures, +which at this time presented themselves. An indifferent spectator would +have been at a loss which most to admire; the eyes of famine sparkling +at immediate relief, or the horror of their preservers at the sight of +so many spectres, whose ghastly countenances, if the cause had been +unknown, would rather have excited terror than pity. Our bodies were +nothing but skin and bones, our limbs were full of sores, and we were +cloathed in rags; in this condition, with the tears of joy and gratitude +flowing down our cheeks, the people of Timor beheld us with a mixture of +horror, surprise, and pity. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 14.] + +The governor, Mr. William Adrian Van Este, notwithstanding his extreme +ill-health, became so anxious about us, that I saw him before the +appointed time. He received me with great affection, and gave me the +fullest proofs that he was possessed of every feeling of a humane and +good man. Sorry as he was, he said, that such a calamity could ever have +happened to us, yet he considered it as the greatest blessing of his +life that we had fallen under his protection; and, though his infirmity +was so great that he could not do the office of a friend himself, he +would give such orders as I might be certain would procure me every +supply I wanted. In the mean time a house was hired for me, and, till +matters could be properly regulated, victuals for every one were ordered +to be dressed at his own house. With respect to my people, he said I +might have room for them either at the hospital or on board of captain +Spikerman's ship, which lay in the road; and he expressed much +uneasiness that Coupang could not afford them better accommodations, the +house assigned to me being the only one uninhabited, and the situation +of the few families such, that they could not accommodate any one. After +this conversation an elegant repast was set before me, more according to +the custom of the country, than with design to alleviate my hunger: so +that in this instance he happily blended, with common politeness, the +greatest favour I could receive. + +On returning to my people, I found every kind relief had been given to +them. The surgeon had dressed their sores, and the cleaning of their +persons had not been less attended to, besides several friendly gifts of +apparel. + +I now desired to be shewn to the house that was intended for me, and I +found it ready, with servants to attend, and a particular one, which the +governor had directed to be always about my person. The house consisted +of a hall, with a room at each end, and a loft over-head; and was +surrounded by a piazza, with an outer apartment in one corner, and a +communication from the back part of the house to the street. I therefore +determined, instead of separating from my people, to lodge them all with +me; and I divided the house as follows: One room I took to myself, the +other I allotted to the master, surgeon, Mr. Nelson, and the gunner; the +loft to the other officers; and the outer apartment to the men. The hall +was common to the officers, and the men had the back piazza. Of this I +informed the governor, and he sent down chairs, tables, and benches, +with bedding and other necessaries for the use of every one. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 14.] + +The governor, when I took my leave, had desired me to acquaint him with +every thing of which I stood in need; but I was now informed it was only +at particular times that he had a few moments of ease, or could attend +to any thing; being in a dying state, with an incurable disease. On this +account, whatever business I had to transact would be with Mr. Timotheus +Wanjon, the second of this place, and the governor's son-in-law; who now +also was contributing every thing in his power to make our situation +comfortable. I had been, therefore, misinformed by the seaman, who told +me that captain Spikerman was the next person to the governor. + +At noon a very handsome dinner was brought to the house, which was +sufficient to make persons, more accustomed to plenty, eat too much. +Cautions, therefore, might be supposed to have had little effect; but I +believe few people in such a situation would have observed more +moderation. My greatest apprehension was, that they would eat too much +fruit. + +Having seen every one enjoy this meal of plenty, I dined with Mr. +Wanjon; but I found no extraordinary inclination to eat or drink. Rest +and quiet, I considered, as more necessary to my doing well, and +therefore retired to my room, which I found furnished with every +convenience. But, instead of rest, my mind was disposed to reflect on +our late sufferings, and on the failure of the expedition; but, above +all, on the thanks due to Almighty God, who had given us power to +support and bear such heavy calamities, and had enabled me at last to be +the means of saving eighteen lives. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 14.] + +In times of difficulty there will generally arise circumstances that +bear more particularly hard on a commander. In our late situation, it +was not the least of my distresses, to be constantly assailed with the +melancholy demands of my people for an increase of allowance, which it +grieved me to refuse. The necessity of observing the most rigid +[oe]conomy in the distribution of our provisions was so evident, that I +resisted their solicitations, and never deviated from the agreement we +made at setting out. The consequence of this care was, that at our +arrival we had still remaining sufficient for eleven days, at our +scanty allowance: and if we had been so unfortunate as to have missed +the Dutch settlement at Timor, we could have proceeded to Java, where I +was certain every supply we wanted could be procured. + +Another disagreeable circumstance, to which my situation exposed me, was +the caprice of ignorant people. Had I been incapable of acting, they +would have carried the boat on shore as soon as we made the island of +Timor, without considering that landing among the natives, at a distance +from the European settlement, might have been as dangerous as among any +other Indians. + +The quantity of provisions with which we left the ship, was not more +than we should have consumed in five days, had there been no necessity +for husbanding our stock. The mutineers must naturally have concluded +that we could have no other place of refuge than the Friendly Islands; +for it was not likely they should imagine, that, so poorly equipped as +we were in every respect, there could have been a possibility of our +attempting to return homewards: much less will they suspect that the +account of their villany has already reached their native country. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 14.] + +When I reflect how providentially our lives were saved at Tofoa, by the +Indians delaying their attack, and that, with scarce any thing to +support life, we crossed a sea of more than 1200 leagues, without +shelter from the inclemency of the weather; when I reflect that in an +open boat, with so much stormy weather, we escaped foundering, that not +any of us were taken off by disease, that we had the great good fortune +to pass the unfriendly natives of other countries without accident, and +at last happily to meet with the most friendly and best of people to +relieve our distresses; I say, when I reflect on all these wonderful +escapes, the remembrance of such great mercies enables me to bear, with +resignation and chearfulness, the failure of an expedition, the success +of which I had so much at heart, and which was frustrated at a time when +I was congratulating myself on the fairest prospect of being able to +complete it in a manner that would fully have answered the intention of +his Majesty, and the honourable promoters of so benevolent a plan. + +With respect to the preservation of our health, during a course of 16 +days of heavy and almost continual rain, I would recommend to every one +in a similar situation the method we practised, which is to dip their +cloaths in the salt-water, and wring them out, as often as they become +filled with rain; it was the only resource we had, and I believe was of +the greatest service to us, for it felt more like a change of dry +cloaths than could well be imagined. We had occasion to do this so +often, that at length all our cloaths were wrung to pieces: for, except +the few days we passed on the coast of New Holland, we were continually +wet either with rain or sea. + +Thus, through the assistance of Divine Providence, we surmounted the +difficulties and distresses of a most perilous voyage, and arrived safe +in an hospitable port, where every necessary and comfort were +administered to us with a most liberal hand. + + +[Sidenote: Timor.] + +[Sidenote: 1789. JULY.] + +As, from the great humanity and attention of the governor, and the +gentlemen, at Coupang, we received every kind of assistance, we were not +long without evident signs of returning health: therefore, to secure my +arrival at Batavia, before the October fleet sailed for Europe, on the +first of July, I purchased a small schooner; 34 feet long, for which I +gave 1000 rix-dollars, and fitted her for sea, under the name of His +Majesty's schooner Resource. + +[Sidenote: July. 20.] + +On the 20th of July, I had the misfortune to lose Mr. David Nelson: he +died of an inflammatory fever. The loss of this honest man I very much +lamented: he had accomplished, with great care and diligence, the object +for which he was sent, and was always ready to forward every plan I +proposed, for the good of the service we were on. He was equally useful +in our voyage hither, in the course of which he gave me great +satisfaction, by the patience and fortitude with which he conducted +himself. + +[Sidenote: July. 21.] + +July 21st. This day I was employed attending the funeral of Mr. Nelson. +The corpse was carried by twelve soldiers drest in black, preceded by +the minister; next followed myself and second governor; then ten +gentlemen of the town and the officers of the ships in the harbour; and +after them my own officers and people. + +After reading our burial-service, the body was interred behind the +chapel, in the burying-ground appropriated to the Europeans of the town. +I was sorry I could get no tombstone to place over his remains. + +This was the second voyage Mr. Nelson had undertaken to the South Seas, +having been sent out by Sir Joseph Banks; to collect plants, seeds, &c. +in Captain Cook's last voyage. And now, after surmounting so many +difficulties, and in the midst of thankfulness for his deliverance, he +was called upon to pay the debt of nature, at a time least expected. + +[Sidenote: August 20.] + +August the 20th. After taking an affectionate leave of the hospitable +and friendly inhabitants, I embarked, and we sailed from Coupang, +exchanging salutes with the fort and shipping as we ran out of the +harbour. + +[Sidenote: 1789. AUGUST.] + +I left the governor, Mr. Van Este, at the point of death. To this +gentleman our most grateful thanks are due, for the humane and friendly +treatment that we have received from him. His ill state of health only +prevented him from showing us more particular marks of attention. +Unhappily, it is to his memory only that I now pay this tribute. It was +a fortunate circumstance for us, that Mr. Wanjon, the next in place to +the governor, was equally humane and ready to relieve us. His attention +was unremitting, and, when there was a doubt about supplying me with +money, on government account, to enable me to purchase a vessel, he +chearfully took it upon himself; without which, it was evident, I should +have been too late at Batavia to have sailed for Europe with the October +fleet. I can only return such services by ever retaining a grateful +remembrance of them. + +Mr. Max, the town surgeon, likewise behaved to us with the most +disinterested humanity: he attended every one with the utmost care; for +which I could not prevail on him to receive any payment, or to render me +any account, or other answer, than that it was his duty. + +Coupang is situated in 10° 12´ S latitude, and 124° 41´ E longitude. + +[Sidenote: August 29.] + +On the 29th of August, I passed by the west end of the Island Flores, +through a dangerous strait full of islands and rocks; and, having got +into the latitude of 8° S, I steered to the west, passing the islands +Sumbawa, Lombock, and Bali, towards Java, which I saw on the 6th of +September. I continued my course to the west, through the Straits of +Madura. + +[Sidenote: September 10.] + +[Sidenote: Passourwang] + +On the 10th of September, I anchored off Passourwang, in latitude 7° 36´ +S, and 1° 44´ W of Cape Sandana, the N E end or Java. + +[Sidenote: 1789. SEPTEMBER] + +On the 11th I sailed, and on the 13th arrived at Sourabya, latitude 7° +11´ S, 1° 52´ west. + +[Sidenote: Sourabya. Crissey.] + +On the 17th of September, sailed from Sourabya, and the same day +anchored at Crissey, for about two hours, and from thence I proceeded to +Samarang. Latitude of Crissey 7° 9´ S, 1° 55´ west. + +[Sidenote: Samarang.] + +[Sidenote: Batavia.] + +On the 22nd of September, anchored at Samarang; latitude 6° 54´ S; 4° 7´ +W. And on the 26th I sailed for Batavia, where I arrived on the 1st of +October. Latitude 6° 10´ S; 8° 12´ W from the east end of Java. + +On the day after my arrival, having gone through some fatigue in +adjusting matters to get my people out of the schooner, as she lay in +the river, and in an unhealthy situation, I was seized with a violent +fever. + +On the 7th, I was carried into the country, to the physician-general's +house, where, the governor-general informed me, I should be accommodated +with every attendance and convenience; and to this only can I attribute +my recovery. It was, however, necessary for me to quit Batavia without +delay; and the governor, on that account, gave me leave, with two +others, to go in a packet that was to sail before the fleet; and assured +me, that those who remained should be sent after me by the fleet, which +was to sail before the end of the month: that if I remained, which would +be highly hazardous, he could not send us all in one ship. My sailing, +therefore, was eligible, even if it had not been necessary for my +health; and for that reason I embarked in the Vlydt packet, which sailed +on the 16th of October. + +[Sidenote: Cape of Good Hope.] + +[Sidenote: 1789. DECEMBER.] + +On the 16th of December, I arrived at the Cape of Good Hope where I +first observed that my usual health was returning; but for a long time +I continued very weak and infirm. + +I received the greatest attention and politeness from the +governor-general, and all the residents on the coast of Java; and +particular marks of friendship and regard from the governor, M. Van de +Graaf, at the Cape of Good Hope. + +On the 2d of January, 1790, we sailed for Europe, and on the 14th of +March, I was landed at Portsmouth by an Isle of Wight boat. + + +FINIS. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Narrative Of The Mutiny, On Board +His Majesty's Ship Bounty; And The Subsequent Voyage Of Part Of The Crew, In The Ship's Boat, by William Bligh + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MUTINY OF THE BOUNTY *** + +***** This file should be named 20337-8.txt or 20337-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/0/3/3/20337/ + +Produced by Chuck Greif, V. L. Simpson and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Narrative Of The Mutiny, On Board His Majesty's Ship Bounty; And The Subsequent Voyage Of Part Of The Crew, In The Ship's Boat + +Author: William Bligh + +Release Date: January 11, 2007 [EBook #20337] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MUTINY OF THE BOUNTY *** + + + + +Produced by Chuck Greif, V. L. Simpson and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Posner Memorial Collection +(http://posnet.library.cmu.edu/Posner/)). + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'>[Pg 1]</span></p> + +<div id="title-page"> + +<div>A</div> +<h1>NARRATIVE</h1> +<div>OF THE</div> +<div style="font:1.75em bold;">MUTINY,</div> +<div>ON BOARD</div> + +<div style="font:1.25em normal;">HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP +<span style="font-style:italic;font-weight:600">BOUNTY</span>;</div> + +<div>AND THE</div> +<div>SUBSEQUENT VOYAGE OF PART OF THE CREW,</div> +<div>IN THE SHIP's BOAT,</div> + +<div>From <span class="smcap">Tofoa</span>, one of the Friendly Islands,</div> +<div>To <span class="smcap">Timor</span>, a Dutch Settlement in the East Indies.</div> + +<hr /> + +<div>Written by <span class="smcap">Lieutenant</span> WILLIAM BLIGH.</div> + +<hr /> + +<div>ILLUSTRATED WITH CHARTS.</div> + +<hr /> + +<div>LONDON:</div> +<div>PRINTED FOR GEORGE NICOL, BOOKSELLER TO HIS MAJESTY, PALL-MALL.</div> +<div>MDCCXC.</div> + +</div><!-- end title-page --> + +<p><span class='pagenum'>[Pg 2]</span></p> + +<div id="illustrations"> +<span>List of Illustrations</span> +<ul> +<li><a href="#map1">Track of the Bounty's Launch from Tofoa to Timor</a></li> +<li><a href="#map3">Chart of Bligh's Islands</a></li> +<li><a href="#map4">North East Coast of New Holland</a></li> +</ul> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>ADVERTISEMENT.</h2> + + +<p>The following Narrative is only a part of a voyage +undertaken for the purpose of conveying the +Bread-fruit Tree from the South Sea Islands to the +West Indies. The manner in which this expedition miscarried, +with the subsequent transactions and events, +are here related. This part of the voyage is not +first in the order of time, yet the circumstances are +so distinct from that by which it was preceded, that +it appears unnecessary to delay giving as much early +information as possible concerning so extraordinary an +event. The rest will be laid before the Public as soon as +it can be got ready; and it is intended to publish it in such +a manner, as, with the present Narrative, will make the +account of the voyage compleat.</p> + +<p>At present, for the better understanding the following +<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 3]</span>pages, it is sufficient to inform the reader, that in +August, 1787, I was appointed to command the Bounty, +a ship of 215 tons burthen, carrying 4 six-pounders, +4 swivels, and 46 men, including myself and every +person on board. We sailed from England in December, +1787, and arrived at Otaheite the 26th of +October, 1788. On the 4th of April, 1789, we left +Otaheite, with every favourable appearance of completing +the object of the voyage, in a manner equal to my +most sanguine expectations. At this period the ensuing +<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 4]</span>Narrative commences.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:800px;"> +<a href="images/map1-lg.png"> +<img name="map1" id="map1" src="images/map1-sml.png" alt="Track of the Bounty's Launch" /></a><br /> +<a href="images/map2-lg.png"> +<img name="map2" id="map2" src="images/map2-sml.png" alt="Track of the Bounty's Launch" /></a> +<p class="caption">Track of the Bounty's Launch from Tofoa to Timor by Lieut. William Bligh, 1789</p> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div> +<p style="text-align:center;font-weight:bold;font-size:1.25em;"> +A +</p> + +<h2> NARRATIVE, &c.</h2> +</div> + + + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">April</span>.</div> + +<p>I sailed from Otaheite on the 4th of April 1789, +having on board 1015 fine bread-fruit plants, besides +many other valuable fruits of that country, which, with +unremitting attention, we had been collecting for three +and twenty weeks, and which were now in the highest state +of perfection.</p> + +<p>On the 11th of April, I discovered an island in latitude +18° 52´ S. and longitude 200° 19´ E. by the natives called +Whytootackee. On the 24th we anchored at Annamooka, +one of the Friendly Islands; from which, after completing +our wood and water, I sailed on the 27th, having every +reason to expect, from the fine condition of the plants, that +they would continue healthy.</p> + +<p>On the evening of the 28th, owing to light winds, we +were not clear of the islands, and at night I directed my +course towards Tofoa. The master had the first watch; +the gunner the middle watch; and Mr. Christian, one of +the mates, the morning watch. This was the turn of duty +for the night.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">April</span>.</div> + +<p>Just before sun-rising, Mr. Christian, with the master at +arms, gunner's mate, and Thomas Burket, seaman, came +into my cabin while I was asleep, and seizing me, tied +my hands with a cord behind my back, and threatened me +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span>with instant death, if I spoke or made the least noise: I, +however, called so loud as to alarm every one; but they +had already secured the officers who were not of their +party, by placing centinels at their doors. There were three +men at my cabin door, besides the four within; Christian +had only a cutlass in his hand, the others had muskets +and bayonets. I was hauled out of bed, and forced on +deck in my shirt, suffering great pain from the tightness +with which they had tied my hands. I demanded the +reason of such violence, but received no other answer than +threats of instant death, if I did not hold my tongue. Mr. +Elphinston, the master's mate, was kept in his birth; Mr. +Nelson, botanist, Mr. Peckover, gunner, Mr. Ledward, +surgeon, and the master, were confined to their cabins; +and also the clerk, Mr. Samuel, but he soon obtained leave +to come on deck. The fore hatchway was guarded by +centinels; the boatswain and carpenter were, however, allowed +to come on deck, where they saw me standing abaft +the mizen-mast, with my hands tied behind my back, under +a guard, with Christian at their head.</p> + +<p>The boatswain was now ordered to hoist the launch out, +with a threat, if he did not do it instantly, to take care of +himself.</p> + +<p>The boat being out, Mr. Hayward and Mr. Hallet, midshipmen, +and Mr. Samuel, were ordered into it; upon +which I demanded the cause of such an order, and endeavoured +to persuade some one to a sense of duty; but it was +to no effect: "Hold your tongue, Sir, or you are dead this +instant," was constantly repeated to me.</p> + +<p>The master, by this time, had sent to be allowed to come +on deck, which was permitted; but he was soon ordered +back again to his cabin.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">April</span>.</div> + +<p>I continued my endeavours to turn the tide of affairs,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> +when Christian changed the cutlass he had in his hand for +a bayonet, that was brought to him, and, holding me with +a strong gripe by the cord that tied my hands, he with +many oaths threatened to kill me immediately if I would +not be quiet: the villains round me had their pieces +cocked and bayonets fixed. Particular people were now +called on to go into the boat, and were hurried over the +side: whence I concluded that with these people I was to +be set adrift.</p> + +<p>I therefore made another effort to bring about a change, +but with no other effect than to be threatened with having +my brains blown out.</p> + +<p>The boatswain and seamen, who were to go in the boat, +were allowed to collect twine, canvas, lines, sails, cordage, +an eight and twenty gallon cask of water, and the carpenter +to take his tool chest. Mr. Samuel got 150lbs of +bread, with a small quantity of rum and wine. He also +got a quadrant and compass into the boat; but was forbidden, +on pain of death, to touch either map, ephemeris, +book of astronomical observations, sextant, time-keeper, +or any of my surveys or drawings.</p> + +<p>The mutineers now hurried those they meant to get rid +of into the boat. When most of them were in, Christian +directed a dram to be served to each of his own crew. I +now unhappily saw that nothing could be done to effect +the recovery of the ship: there was no one to assist me, +and every endeavour on my part was answered with +threats of death.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">April</span>.</div> + +<p>The officers were called, and forced over the side into +the boat, while I was kept apart from every one, abaft +the mizen-mast; Christian, armed with a bayonet, holding +me by the bandage that secured my hands. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> +guard round me had their pieces cocked, but, on my +daring the ungrateful wretches to fire, they uncocked +them.</p> + +<p>Isaac Martin, one of the guard over me, I saw, had an +inclination to assist me, and, as he fed me with shaddock, +(my lips being quite parched with my endeavours to bring +about a change) we explained our wishes to each other by +our looks; but this being observed, Martin was instantly +removed from me; his inclination then was to leave the +ship, for which purpose he got into the boat; but with +many threats they obliged him to return.</p> + +<p>The armourer, Joseph Coleman, and the two carpenters, +M'Intosh and Norman, were also kept contrary to their +inclination; and they begged of me, after I was astern in +the boat, to remember that they declared they had no +hand in the transaction. Michael Byrne, I am told, likewise +wanted to leave the ship.</p> + +<p>It is of no moment for me to recount my endeavours to +bring back the offenders to a sense of their duty: all I +could do was by speaking to them in general; but my endeavours +were of no avail, for I was kept securely bound, +and no one but the guard suffered to come near me.</p> + +<p>To Mr. Samuel I am indebted for securing my journals +and commission, with some material ship papers. Without +these I had nothing to certify what I had done, and my +honour and character might have been suspected, without +my possessing a proper document to have defended them. +All this he did with great resolution, though guarded and +strictly watched. He attempted to save the time-keeper, +and a box with all my surveys, drawings, and remarks for +fifteen years past, which were numerous; when he was +hurried away, with "Damn your eyes, you are well off to +get what you have."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">April</span>.</div> + +<p>It appeared to me, that Christian was some time in doubt +whether he should keep the carpenter, or his mates; at +length he determined on the latter, and the carpenter was +ordered into the boat. He was permitted, but not without +some opposition, to take his tool chest.</p> + +<p>Much altercation took place among the mutinous crew +during the whole business: some swore "I'll be damned if +he does not find his way home, if he gets any thing with +him," (meaning me); others, when the carpenter's chest +was carrying away, "Damn my eyes, he will have a vessel +built in a month." While others laughed at the +helpless situation of the boat, being very deep, and so little +room for those who were in her. As for Christian, he +seemed meditating instant destruction on himself and every +one.</p> + +<p>I asked for arms, but they laughed at me, and said I +was well acquainted with the people where I was going, and +therefore did not want them; four cutlasses, however, were +thrown into the boat, after we were veered astern.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">April</span>.</div> + +<p>When the officers and men, with whom I was suffered to +have no communication, were put into the boat, they only +waited for me, and the master at arms informed Christian of +it; who then said—"Come, captain Bligh, your officers and +men are now in the boat, and you must go with them; if +you attempt to make the least resistance you will instantly +be put to death:" and, without any farther ceremony, +holding me by the cord that tied my hands, with a tribe of +armed ruffians about me, I was forced over the side, +where they untied my hands. Being in the boat we were +veered astern by a rope. A few pieces of pork were then +thrown to us, and some cloaths, also the cutlasses I have +already mentioned; and it was now that the armourer<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> +and carpenters called out to me to remember that they +had no hand in the transaction. After having undergone +a great deal of ridicule, and been kept some time to make +sport for these unfeeling wretches, we were at length cast +adrift in the open ocean.</p> + +<p>I had with me in the boat the following persons:</p> + +<table summary="List of crewmembers cast-off the Bounty."> +<thead> +<tr><th>Names.</th> <th>Stations.</th></tr> +</thead> +<tbody> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">John Fryer</span></td> <td>Master.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Thomas Ledward</span></td> <td>Acting Surgeon.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">David Nelson</span></td> <td>Botanist.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">William Peckover</span></td> <td>Gunner.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">William Cole</span></td> <td>Boatswain.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">William Purcell</span></td> <td>Carpenter.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">William Elphinston</span></td> <td>Master's Mate.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Thomas Hayward</span></td> <td>Midshipmen.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">John Hallett</span></td> <td>"</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">John Norton</span></td> <td>Quarter Masters.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Peter Linkletter</span></td> <td>"</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Lawrence Lebogue</span></td> <td>Sailmaker.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">John Smith</span></td> <td>Cooks.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Thomas Hall</span></td> <td>"</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">George Simpson</span></td> <td>Quarter Master's Mate.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Robert Tinkler</span></td> <td>A boy.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Robert Lamb</span></td> <td>Butcher.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Mr. Samuel</span></td> <td>Clerk.</td></tr> +</tbody> +</table> + +<p>There remained on board the Bounty, as pirates,</p> +<table summary="A list of the mutineers left aboard the Bounty."> +<thead> +<tr><th>Names.</th> <th>Stations.</th></tr> +</thead> +<tbody> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Fletcher Christian</span></td><td>Master's Mate.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Peter Haywood</span></td><td>Midshipmen.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Edward Young</span></td><td>"</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span><span class="smcap">George Stewart</span></td><td>"</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Charles Churchill</span></td><td>Master at Arms.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">John Mills</span></td><td>Gunner's Mate.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">James Morrison</span></td><td>Boatswain's Mate.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Thomas Burkitt</span></td><td>Able Seaman.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Matthew Quintal</span></td><td>Ditto.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">John Sumner</span></td><td>Ditto.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">John Millward</span></td><td>Ditto.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">William M'Koy</span></td><td>Ditto.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Henry Hillbrant</span></td><td>Ditto.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Michael Byrne</span></td><td>Ditto.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">William Musprat</span></td><td>Ditto.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Alexander Smith</span></td><td>Ditto.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">John Williams</span></td><td>Ditto.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Thomas Ellison</span></td><td>Ditto.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Isaac Martin</span></td><td>Ditto.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Richard Skinner</span></td><td>Ditto.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Matthew Thompson</span></td><td>Ditto.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">William Brown</span></td><td>Gardiner.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Joseph Coleman</span></td><td>Armourer.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Charles Norman</span></td><td>Carpenter's Mate.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Thomas M'Intosh</span></td><td>Carpenter's Crew.</td></tr> +</tbody> +</table> + +<p>In all 25 hands, and the most able men of the ship's company.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">April</span>.</div> + +<p>Having little or no wind, we rowed pretty fast towards +Tofoa, which bore N E about 10 leagues from us. While +the ship was in sight she steered to the W N W, but I +considered this only as a feint; for when we were sent +away—"Huzza for Otaheite," was frequently heard among +the mutineers.</p> + +<p>Christian, the captain of the gang, is of a respectable fa<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span>mily +in the north of England. This was the third voyage +he had made with me; and, as I found it necessary to keep +my ship's company at three watches, I gave him an order +to take charge of the third, his abilities being thoroughly +equal to the task; and by this means my master and gunner +were not at watch and watch.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">April</span>.</div> + +<p>Haywood is also of a respectable family in the north of +England, and a young man of abilities, as well as Christian. +These two were objects of my particular regard and attention, +and I took great pains to instruct them, for they +really promised, as professional men, to be a credit to their +country.</p> + +<p>Young was well recommended, and appeared to me an +able stout seaman; therefore I was glad to take him: he, +however, fell short of what his appearance promised.</p> + +<p>Stewart was a young man of creditable parents, in the +Orkneys; at which place, on the return of the Resolution +from the South Seas, in 1780, we received so many civilities, +that, on that account only, I should gladly have taken him +with me: but, independent of this recommendation, he +was a seaman, and had always borne a good character.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding the roughness with which I was treated, +the remembrance of past kindnesses produced some signs +of remorse in Christian. When they were forcing me out +of the ship, I asked him, if this treatment was a proper +return for the many instances he had received of my +friendship? he appeared disturbed at my question, and +answered, with much emotion, "That,—captain Bligh,—that +is the thing;—I am in hell—I am in hell."</p> + +<p>As soon as I had time to reflect, I felt an inward satisfaction +which prevented any depression of my spirits: conscious +of my integrity, and anxious solicitude for the good<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> +of the service in which I was engaged, I found my mind +wonderfully supported, and I began to conceive hopes, notwithstanding +so heavy a calamity, that I should one day be +able to account to my King and country for the misfortune.—A +few hours before, my situation had been peculiarly +flattering. I had a ship in the most perfect order, and +well stored with every necessary both for service and health: +by early attention to those particulars I had, as much as lay +in my power, provided against any accident, in case I could +not get through Endeavour Straits, as well as against what +might befal me in them; add to this, the plants had been +successfully preserved in the most flourishing state: so that, +upon the whole, the voyage was two thirds completed, and +the remaining part in a very promising way; every person +on board being in perfect health, to establish which was +ever amongst the principal objects of my attention.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">April</span>.</div> + +<p>It will very naturally be asked, what could be the reason +for such a revolt? in answer to which, I can only conjecture +that the mutineers had assured themselves of a more +happy life among the Otaheiteans, than they could possibly +have in England; which, joined to some female connections, +have most probably been the principal cause of the +whole transaction.</p> + +<p>The women at Otaheite are handsome, mild and chearful +in their manners and conversation, possessed of great +sensibility, and have sufficient delicacy to make them +admired and beloved. The chiefs were so much attached +to our people, that they rather encouraged their stay among +them than otherwise, and even made them promises of +large possessions. Under these, and many other attendant +circumstances, equally desirable, it is now perhaps not so +much to be wondered at, though scarcely possible to have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> +been foreseen, that a set of sailors, most of them void of +connections, should be led away; especially when, in addition +to such powerful inducements, they imagined it in +their power to fix themselves in the midst of plenty, on +the finest island in the world, where they need not labour, +and where the allurements of dissipation are beyond any +thing that can be conceived. The utmost, however, that +any commander could have supposed to have happened is, +that some of the people would have been tempted to desert. +But if it should be asserted, that a commander is to guard +against an act of mutiny and piracy in his own ship, more +than by the common rules of service, it is as much as to +say that he must sleep locked up, and when awake, be +girded with pistols.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">April</span>.</div> + +<p>Desertions have happened, more or less, from many of +the ships that have been at the Society Islands; but it ever +has been in the commanders power to make the chiefs return +their people: the knowledge, therefore, that it was +unsafe to desert; perhaps, first led mine to consider with +what ease so small a ship might be surprized, and that so favourable +an opportunity would never offer to them again.</p> + +<p>The secrecy of this mutiny is beyond all conception. +Thirteen of the party, who were with me, had always lived +forward among the people; yet neither they, nor the messmates +of Christian, Stewart, Haywood, and Young, had ever +observed any circumstance to give them suspicion of what +was going on. With such close-planned acts of villainy, and +my mind free from any suspicion, it is not wonderful that I +have been got the better of. Perhaps, if I had had marines, +a centinel at my cabin-door might have prevented it; for +I slept with the door always open, that the officer of the +watch might have access to me on all occasions. The possi<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span>bility +of such a conspiracy was ever the farthest from my +thoughts. Had their mutiny been occasioned by any grievances, +either real or imaginary, I must have discovered +symptoms of their discontent, which would have put me +on my guard: but the case was far otherwise. Christian, +in particular, I was on the most friendly terms with; that +very day he was engaged to have dined with me; and the +preceding night he excused himself from supping with +me, on pretence of being unwell; for which I felt concerned, +having no suspicions of his integrity and honour.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">April</span>.</div> + +<p>It now remained with me to consider what was best to +be done. My first determination was to seek a supply +of bread-fruit and water at Tofoa, and afterwards to sail +for Tongataboo; and there risk a solicitation to Poulaho, +the king, to equip my boat, and grant a supply of water +and provisions, so as to enable us to reach the East Indies.</p> + +<p>The quantity of provisions I found in the boat was +150 lb. of bread, 16 pieces of pork, each piece weighing 2 lb. +6 quarts of rum, 6 bottles of wine, with 28 gallons of +water, and four empty barrecoes.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Wednesday 29.</div> + +<p>Wednesday, April 29th<a name="FNanchor1" id="FNanchor1"></a><a href="#Footnote1" class="fnanchor">[*]</a>. Happily the afternoon kept +calm, until about 4 o'clock, when we were so far to windward, +that, with a moderate easterly breeze which sprung +up, we were able to sail. It was nevertheless dark when we +got to Tofoa, where I expected to land; but the shore +proved to be so steep and rocky, that I was obliged to give +up all thoughts of it, and keep the boat under the lee of +the island with two oars; for there was no anchorage. Having +fixed on this mode of proceeding for the night, I served<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> +to every person half a pint of grog, and each took to his +rest as well as our unhappy situation would allow.</p> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote1" id="Footnote1"></a><a href="#FNanchor1"><span class="label">[*]</span></a> It is to be observed, that the account of time is kept in the nautical way, each day ending +at noon. Thus the beginning of the 29th of April is, according to the common way of +reckoning, the afternoon of the 28th.</p></div> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">April</span> 29.</div> + +<p>In the morning, at dawn of day, we set off along +shore in search of landing, and about ten o'clock we discovered +a stony cove at the N W part of the island, +where I dropt the grapnel within 20 yards of the rocks. A +great deal of surf ran on the shore; but, as I was unwilling +to diminish our stock of provisions, I landed Mr. Samuel, +and some others, who climbed the cliffs, and got into the +country to search for supplies. The rest of us remained at +the cove, not discovering any way to get into the country, +but that by which Mr. Samuel had proceeded. It was great +consolation to me to find, that the spirits of my people did +not sink, notwithstanding our miserable and almost hopeless +situation. Towards noon Mr. Samuel returned, with a few +quarts of water, which he had found in holes; but he had +met with no spring or any prospect of a sufficient supply +in that particular, and had only seen signs of inhabitants. +As it was impossible to know how much we might be in +want, I only issued a morsel of bread, and a glass of wine, +to each person for dinner.</p> + +<p>I observed the latitude of this cove to be 19° 41´ S.</p> + +<p>This is the N W part of Tofoa, the north-westernmost +of the Friendly Islands.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Thursday 30.</div> + +<p>Thursday, April 30th. Fair weather, but the wind blew so +violently from the E S E that I could not venture to sea. +Our detention therefore made it absolutely necessary to see +what we could do more for our support; for I determined, if +possible, to keep my first stock entire: I therefore weighed, +and rowed along shore, to see if any thing could be got; +and at last discovered some cocoa-nut trees, but they were +on the top of high precipices, and the surf made it danger<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span>ous +landing; both one and the other we, however, got the +better of. Some, with much difficulty, climbed the cliffs, +and got about 20 cocoa-nuts, and others slung them to +ropes, by which we hauled them through the surf into the +boat. This was all that could be done here; and, as I found +no place so eligible as the one we had left to spend the +night at, I returned to the cove, and, having served a cocoa-nut +to each person, we went to rest again in the boat.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">April</span> 30.</div> + +<p>At dawn of day I attempted to get to sea; but the wind +and weather proved so bad, that I was glad to return to +my former station; where, after issuing a morsel of bread +and a spoonful of rum to each person, we landed, and I +went off with Mr. Nelson, Mr. Samuel, and some others, +into the country, having hauled ourselves up the precipice +by long vines, which were fixed there by the natives for +that purpose; this being the only way into the country.</p> + +<p>We found a few deserted huts, and a small plantain walk, +but little taken care of; from which we could only collect +three small bunches of plantains. After passing this place, +we came to a deep gully that led towards a mountain, +near a volcano; and, as I conceived that in the rainy season +very great torrents of water must pass through it, +we hoped to find sufficient for our use remaining in some +holes of the rocks; but, after all our search, the whole +that we found was only nine gallons, in the course of the +day. We advanced within two miles of the foot of the +highest mountain in the island, on which is the volcano that +is almost constantly burning. The country near it is all +covered with lava, and has a most dreary appearance. As +we had not been fortunate in our discoveries, and saw but +little to alleviate our distresses, we filled our cocoa-nut +shells with the water we found, and returned exceedingly fati<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span>gued +and faint. When I came to the precipice whence we +were to descend into the cove, I was seized with such a dizziness +in my head, that I thought it scarce possible to effect +it: however, by the assistance of Mr. Nelson, and others, +they at last got me down, in a weak condition. Every person +being returned by noon, I gave about an ounce of pork +and two plantains to each, with half a glass of wine. +I again observed the latitude of this place 19° 41´ south. +The people who remained by the boat I had directed to +look for fish, or what they could pick up about the rocks; +but nothing eatable could be found: so that, upon the +whole, we considered ourselves on as miserable a spot of +land as could well be imagined.</p> + +<p>I could not say positively, from the former knowledge +I had of this island, whether it was inhabited or not; but +I knew it was considered inferior to the other islands, and +I was not certain but that the Indians only resorted to it at +particular times. I was very anxious to ascertain this +point; for, in case there had only been a few people here, +and those could have furnished us with but very moderate +supplies, the remaining in this spot to have made +preparations for our voyage, would have been preferable +to the risk of going amongst multitudes, where perhaps +we might lose every thing. A party, therefore, sufficiently +strong, I determined should go another route, as +soon as the sun became lower; and they cheerfully undertook +it.</p> + +<div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">May</span>. Friday 1.</div> + +<p>Friday, May the 1st: stormy weather, wind E S E and +S E. About two o'clock in the afternoon the party set +out; but, after suffering much fatigue, they returned in +the evening, without any kind of success.</p> + +<p>At the head of the cove, about 150 yards from the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> +water-side, was a cave; across the stony beach was about +100 yards, and the only way from the country into the cove +was that which I have already described. The situation secured +us from the danger of being surprised, and I determined +to remain on shore for the night, with a part of my +people, that the others might have more room to rest in the +boat, with the master; whom I directed to lie at a grapnel, +and be watchful, in case we should be attacked. I ordered one +plantain for each person to be boiled; and, having supped +on this scanty allowance, with a quarter of a pint of grog, +and fixed the watches for the night, those whose turn it +was, laid down to sleep in the cave; before which we kept +up a good fire, yet notwithstanding we were much +troubled with flies and musquitoes.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 1.</div> + +<p>At dawn of day the party set out again in a different +route, to see what they could find; in the course of which +they suffered greatly for want of water: they, however, +met with two men, a woman, and a child; the men came +with them to the cove, and brought two cocoa-nut shells of +water. I immediately made friends with these people, +and sent them away for bread-fruit, plantains, and water. +Soon after other natives came to us; and by noon I had +30 of them about me, trading with the articles we were in +want of: but I could only afford one ounce of pork, and a +quarter of a bread-fruit, to each man for dinner, with half a +pint of water; for I was fixed in not using any of the bread +or water in the boat.</p> + +<p>No particular chief was yet among the natives: they +were, notwithstanding, tractable, and behaved honestly, +giving the provisions they brought for a few buttons and +beads. The party who had been out, informed me of +having discovered several neat plantations; so that it be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span>came +no longer a doubt of there being settled inhabitants +on the island; and for that reason I determined to get +what I could, and sail the first moment the wind and +weather would allow me to put to sea.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 1.</div> + +<div class="sidenote">Saturday 2.</div> + +<p>Saturday, May the 2d: stormy weather, wind E S E. +It had hitherto been a weighty consideration with me, +how I was to account to the natives for the loss of my +ship: I knew they had too much sense to be amused with +a story that the ship was to join me, when she was not in +sight from the hills. I was at first doubtful whether I +should tell the real fact, or say that the ship had overset +and sunk, and that only we were saved: the latter appeared +to me to be the most proper and advantageous to us, and I +accordingly instructed my people, that we might all agree +in one story. As I expected, enquiries were made after +the ship, and they seemed readily satisfied with our account; +but there did not appear the least symptom of joy +or sorrow in their faces, although I fancied I discovered +some marks of surprise. Some of the natives were coming +and going the whole afternoon, and we got enough of +bread-fruit, plantains, and cocoa-nuts for another day; but +water they only brought us about five pints. A canoe also +came in with four men, and brought a few cocoa-nuts and +bread-fruit, which I bought as I had done the rest. Nails +were much enquired after, but I would not suffer one to +be shewn, as I wanted them for the use of the boat.</p> + +<p>Towards evening I had the satisfaction to find our stock +of provisions somewhat increased: but the natives did not +appear to have much to spare. What they brought +was in such small quantities, that I had no reason to hope +we should be able to procure from them sufficient to stock +us for our voyage. At sun-set all the natives left us in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> +quiet possession of the cove. I thought this a good sign, +and made no doubt that they would come again the next +day with a larger proportion of food and water, with which +I hoped to sail without farther delay: for if, in attempting +to get to Tongataboo, we should be blown away from the +islands altogether, there would be a larger quantity of provisions +to support us against such a misfortune.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 2.</div> + +<p>At night I served a quarter of a bread-fruit and a cocoa-nut +to each person for supper; and, a good fire being made, +all but the watch went to sleep.</p> + +<p>At day-break I was happy to find every one's spirits a +little revived, and that they no longer regarded me with +those anxious looks, which had constantly been directed +towards me since we lost sight of the ship: every countenance +appeared to have a degree of cheerfulness, and +they all seemed determined to do their best.</p> + +<p>As I doubted of water being brought by the natives, I +sent a party among the gullies in the mountains, with +empty shells, to see what they could get. In their absence +the natives came about us, as I expected, but more +numerous; also two canoes came in from round the north +side of the island. In one of them was an elderly chief, +called Maccaackavow. Soon after some of our foraging +party returned, and with them came a good-looking chief, +called Eegijeefow, or perhaps more properly Eefow, Egij +or Eghee, signifying a chief. To both these men I made +a present of an old shirt and a knife, and I soon found +they either had seen me, or had heard of my being at +Annamooka. They knew I had been with captain Cook, +who they enquired after, and also captain Clerk. They +were very inquisitive to know in what manner I had<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> +lost my ship. During this conversation a young man appeared, +whom I remembered to have seen at Annamooka, +called Nageete: he expressed much pleasure at seeing me. +I now enquired after Poulaho and Feenow, who, they said, +were at Tongataboo; and Eefow agreed to accompany +me thither, if I would wait till the weather moderated. The +readiness and affability of this man gave me much satisfaction.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 2.</div> + +<p>This, however, was but of short duration, for the natives +began to increase in number, and I observed some +symptoms of a design against us; soon after they attempted +to haul the boat on shore, when I threatened Eefow with a +cutlass, to induce him to make them desist; which they did, +and every thing became quiet again. My people, who had +been in the mountains, now returned with about three gallons +of water. I kept buying up the little bread-fruit that +was brought to us, and likewise some spears to arm my men +with, having only four cutlasses, two of which were in the +boat. As we had no means of improving our situation, I +told our people I would wait until sun-set, by which +time, perhaps, something might happen in our favour: +that if we attempted to go at present, we must fight our +way through, which we could do more advantageously at +night; and that in the mean time we would endeavour to +get off to the boat what we had bought. The beach was +now lined with the natives, and we heard nothing but the +knocking of stones together, which they had in each hand. +I knew very well this was the sign of an attack. It being +now noon, I served a cocoa-nut and a bread-fruit to +each person for dinner, and gave some to the chiefs, with +whom I continued to appear intimate and friendly. They<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> +frequently importuned me to sit down, but I as constantly +refused; for it occurred both to Mr. Nelson and myself, that +they intended to seize hold of me, if I gave them such +an opportunity. Keeping, therefore, constantly on our +guard, we were suffered to eat our uncomfortable meal +in some quietness.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 2.</div> + +<div class="sidenote">Sunday 3.</div> + +<p>Sunday, 3d May, fresh gales at S E and E S E, varying +to the N E in the latter part, with a storm of wind.</p> + +<p>After dinner we began by little and little to get our +things into the boat, which was a troublesome business, +on account of the surf. I carefully watched the motions +of the natives, who still increased in number, and found +that, instead of their intention being to leave us, fires +were made, and places fixed on for their stay during the +night. Consultations were also held among them, and +every thing assured me we should be attacked. I sent +orders to the master, that when he saw us coming down, he +should keep the boat close to the shore, that we might the +more readily embark.</p> + +<p>I had my journal on shore with me, writing the occurrences +in the cave, and in sending it down to the boat it +was nearly snatched away, but for the timely assistance of +the gunner.</p> + +<p>The sun was near setting when I gave the word, on +which every person, who was on shore with me, boldly +took up his proportion of things, and carried them to the +boat. The chiefs asked me if I would not stay with them +all night, I said, "No, I never sleep out of my boat; but in +the morning we will again trade with you, and I shall +remain until the weather is moderate, that we may go, +as we have agreed, to see Poulaho, at Tongataboo." +Maccaackavow then got up, and said, "You will not sleep<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> +on shore? then Mattie," (which directly signifies we +will kill you) and he left me. The onset was now preparing; +every one, as I have described before, kept knocking +stones together, and Eefow quitted me. We had now all +but two or three things in the boat, when I took Nageete +by the hand, and we walked down the beach, every one in +a silent kind of horror.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 3.</div> + +<p>When I came to the boat, and was seeing the people +embark, Nageete wanted me to stay to speak to Eefow; +but I found he was encouraging them to the attack, +and I determined, had it then begun, to have killed +him for his treacherous behaviour. I ordered the carpenter +not to quit me until the other people were in +the boat. Nageete, finding I would not stay, loosed himself +from my hold and went off, and we all got into the +boat except one man, who, while I was getting on board, +quitted it, and ran up the beach to cast the stern fast +off, notwithstanding the master and others called to +him to return, while they were hauling me out of the +water.</p> + +<p>I was no sooner in the boat than the attack began by +about 200 men; the unfortunate poor man who had run +up the beach was knocked down, and the stones flew like +a shower of shot. Many Indians got hold of the stern rope, +and were near hauling us on shore, and would certainly +have done it if I had not had a knife in my pocket, with +which I cut the rope. We then hauled off to the grapnel, +every one being more or less hurt. At this time I saw five +of the natives about the poor man they had killed, and two +of them were beating him about the head with stones in +their hands.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. May 3</div> + +<p>We had no time to reflect, before, to my surprise, they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> +filled their canoes with stones, and twelve men came off +after us to renew the attack, which they did so effectually +as nearly to disable all of us. Our grapnel was foul, but +Providence here assisted us; the fluke broke, and we +got to our oars, and pulled to sea. They, however, could +paddle round us, so that we were obliged to sustain the attack +without being able to return it, except with such stones +as lodged in the boat, and in this I found we were very inferior +to them. We could not close, because our boat was +lumbered and heavy, and that they knew very well: I +therefore adopted the expedient of throwing overboard +some cloaths, which they lost time in picking up; and, as +it was now almost dark, they gave over the attack, and returned +towards the shore, leaving us to reflect on our unhappy +situation.</p> + +<p>The poor man I lost was John Norton: this was his +second voyage with me as a quarter-master, and his worthy +character made me lament his loss very much. He +has left an aged parent, I am told, whom he supported.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. May 3.</div> + +<p>I once before sustained an attack of a similar nature, with +a smaller number of Europeans, against a multitude of Indians; +it was after the death of captain Cook, on the Morai +at Owhyhee, where I was left by lieutenant King: yet, +notwithstanding, I did not conceive that the power of +a man's arm could throw stones, from two to eight +pounds weight, with such force and exactness as these +people did. Here unhappily I was without arms, and +the Indians knew it; but it was a fortunate circumstance +that they did not begin to attack us in the cave: in +that case our destruction must have been inevitable, and +we should have had nothing left for it but to die as bravely +as we could, fighting close together; in which I found every<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> +one cheerfully disposed to join me. This appearance of +resolution deterred them, supposing they could effect their +purpose without risk after we were in the boat.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:800px;"> +<a href="images/map3-lg.png"> +<img name="map3" id="map3" src="images/map3-sml.png" alt="Chart of Bligh's Islands" /></a> +<p class="caption">Chart of Bligh's Islands</p> +</div> + +<p>Taking this as a sample of the dispositions of the Indians, +there was little reason to expect much benefit if I +persevered in my intention of visiting Poulaho; for I considered +their good behaviour hitherto to proceed from a +dread of our fire-arms, which, now knowing us destitute of, +would cease; and, even supposing our lives not in danger, +the boat and every thing we had would most probably be +taken from us, and thereby all hopes precluded of ever +being able to return to our native country.</p> + +<p>We were now sailing along the west side of the island +Tofoa, and my mind was employed in considering what +was best to be done, when I was solicited by all hands to +take them towards home: and, when I told them no hopes +of relief for us remained, but what I might find at New +Holland, until I came to Timor, a distance of full 1200 +leagues, where was a Dutch settlement, but in what part +of the island I knew not, they all agreed to live on one +ounce of bread, and a quarter of a pint of water, per day. +Therefore, after examining our stock of provisions, and recommending +this as a sacred promise for ever to their memory, +we bore away across a sea, where the navigation is +but little known, in a small boat, twenty-three feet long from +stern to stern, deep laden with eighteen men; without a +chart, and nothing but my own recollection and general +knowledge of the situation of places, assisted by a book of +latitudes and longitudes, to guide us. I was happy, however, +to see every one better satisfied with our situation in this +particular than myself.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. May 3.</div> + +<p>Our stock of provisions consisted of about one hundred and +fifty pounds of bread, twenty-eight gallons of water, twenty<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> +pounds of pork, three bottles of wine, and five quarts of rum. +The difference between this and the quantity we had on +leaving the ship, was principally owing to loss in the +bustle and confusion of the attack. A few cocoa-nuts were +in the boat, and some bread-fruit, but the latter was +trampled to pieces.</p> + +<p>It was about eight o'clock at night when I bore away +under a reefed lug fore-sail: and, having divided the people +into watches, and got the boat in a little order, we returned +God thanks for our miraculous preservation, and, +fully confident of his gracious support, I found my mind +more at ease than for some time past.</p> + +<p>At day-break the gale increased; the sun rose very +fiery and red, a sure indication of a severe gale of wind. +At eight it blew a violent storm, and the sea ran very high, +so that between the seas the sail was becalmed, and when +on the top of the sea it was too much to have set: but I +was obliged to carry to it, for we were now in very imminent +danger and distress, the sea curling over the stern of +the boat, which obliged us to bale with all our might. A +situation more distressing has, perhaps, seldom been experienced.</p> + +<p>Our bread was in bags, and in danger of being spoiled +by the wet: to be starved to death was inevitable, if this +could not be prevented: I therefore began to examine +what cloaths there were in the boat, and what other things +could be spared; and, having determined that only two +suits should be kept for each person, the rest was thrown +overboard, with some rope and spare sails, which lightened +the boat considerably, and we had more room to bale +the water out. Fortunately the carpenter had a good chest +in the boat, into which I put the bread the first favourable<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> +moment. His tool chest also was cleared, and the tools +stowed in the bottom of the boat, so that this became a +second convenience.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 3.</div> + +<p>I now served a tea-spoonful of rum to each person, +(for we were very wet and cold) with a quarter of a bread-fruit, +which was scarce eatable, for dinner; but our engagement +was now strictly to be carried into execution, +and I was fully determined to make what provisions I +had last eight weeks, let the daily proportion be ever +so small.</p> + +<p>At noon I considered my course and distance from +Tofoa to be W N W 3/4 W. 86 miles, my latitude 19° 27´ S. +I directed my course to the W N W, that I might get a +sight of the islands called Feejee, if they laid in the direction +the natives had pointed out to me.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Monday 4.</div> + +<p>Monday, 4th May. This day the weather was very +severe, it blew a storm from N E to E S E. The sea ran +higher than yesterday, and the fatigue of baling, to keep +the boat from filling, was exceedingly great. We could +do nothing more than keep before the sea; in the course +of which the boat performed so wonderfully well, that I no +longer dreaded any danger in that respect. But among +the hardships we were to undergo, that of being constantly +wet was not the least: the nights were very cold, and at day-light +our limbs were so benumbed, that we could scarce find +the use of them. At this time I served a tea-spoonful of +rum to each person, which we all found great benefit +from.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 4.</div> + +<p>As I have mentioned before, I determined to keep to +the W N W, until I got more to the northward, for I not +only expected to have better weather, but to see the Feejee +Islands, as I have often understood, from the natives of An<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span>namooka, +that they lie in that direction; Captain Cook likewise +considers them to be N W by W from Tongataboo. Just +before noon we discovered a small flat island of a moderate +height, bearing W S W, 4 or 5 leagues. I observed in latitude +18° 58´ S; our longitude, by account, 3° 4´ W from the +island Tofoa, having made a N 72° W course, distance 95 +miles, since yesterday noon. I divided five small cocoa-nuts +for our dinner, and every one was satisfied.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Tuesday 5.</div> + +<p>Tuesday, 5th May. Towards the evening the gale considerably +abated. Wind S E.</p> + +<p>A little after noon, other islands appeared, and at a quarter +past three o'clock we could count eight, bearing from S +round by the west to N W by N; those to the south, which +were the nearest, being four leagues distant from us.</p> + +<p>I kept my course to the N W by W, between the +islands, and at six o'clock discovered three other small islands +to the N W, the westernmost of them bore N W 1/2 W +7 leagues. I steered to the southward of these islands, a +W N W course for the night, under a reefed sail.</p> + +<p>Served a few broken pieces of bread-fruit for supper, +and performed prayers.</p> + +<p>The night turned out fair, and, having had tolerable rest, +every one seemed considerably better in the morning, and +contentedly breakfasted on a few pieces of yams that were +found in the boat. After breakfast we prepared a chest for +our bread, and it got secured: but unfortunately a great deal +was damaged and rotten; this nevertheless we were glad to +keep for use.</p> + +<p>I had hitherto been scarcely able to keep any account +of our run; but we now equipped ourselves a little better, +by getting a log-line marked, and, having practised at<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> +counting seconds; several could do it with some degree of +exactness.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 5.</div> + +<p>The islands I have passed lie between the latitude of 19° +5´ S and 18° 19´ S, and, according to my reckoning, from +3° 17´ to 3° 46´ W longitude from the island Tofoa: the +largest may be about six leagues in circuit; but it is impossible +for me to be very exact. To show where they are +to be found again is the most my situation enabled me to +do. The sketch I have made, will give a comparative view of +their extent. I believe all the larger islands are inhabited, +as they appeared very fertile.</p> + +<p>At noon I observed, in latitude 18° 10´ S, and considered +my course and distance from yesterday noon, N W by W +1/2 W, 94 miles; longitude, by account, from Tofoa 4° 29´ W.</p> + +<p>For dinner, I served some of the damaged bread, and a +quarter of a pint of water.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Wednesday 6.</div> + +<p>Wednesday, 6th May. Fresh breezes E N E, and fair +weather, but very hazy.</p> + +<p>About six o'clock this afternoon I discovered two islands, +one bearing W by S 6 leagues, and the other N W by N +8 leagues; I kept to windward of the northernmost, and +passing it by 10 o'clock, I resumed my course to the N W +and W N W. At day-light in the morning I discovered a +number of other islands from S S E to the W, and round +to N E by E; between those in the N W I determined +to pass. At noon a small sandy island or key, 2 miles distant +from me, bore from E to S 3/4 W. I had passed ten islands, +the largest of which may be 6 or 8 leagues in circuit. Much +larger lands appeared in the S W and N by W, between +which I directed my course. Latitude observed 17° 17´ S; +course since yesterday noon N 50° W; distance 84 miles; +longitude made, by account, 5° 37´ W.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 6.</div> + +<p>Our supper, breakfast, and dinner, consisted of a quarter +of a pint of cocoa-nut milk, and the meat, which did not exceed +two ounces to each person: it was received very contentedly, +but we suffered great drought. I dared not to +land, as we had no arms, and were less capable to defend +ourselves than we were at Tofoa.</p> + +<p>To keep an account of the boat's run was rendered difficult, +from being constantly wet with the sea breaking over +us; but, as we advanced towards the land, the sea became +smoother, and I was enabled to form a sketch of the islands, +which will serve to give a general knowledge of their extent. +Those I have been near are fruitful and hilly, some +very mountainous, and all of a good height.</p> + +<p>To our great joy we hooked a fish, but we were miserably +disappointed by its being lost in getting into the boat.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Thursday 7.</div> + +<p>Thursday, 7th May. Variable weather and cloudy, wind north-easterly, +and calms. I continued my course to the +N W, between the islands, which, by the evening, appeared +of considerable extent, woody and mountainous. At sun-set +the southernmost bore from S to S W by W, and the +northernmost from N by W 1/2 W to N E 1/2 E. At six o'clock +I was nearly mid-way between them, and about 6 leagues +distant from each shore, when I fell in with a coral bank, +where I had only four feet water, without the least break on +it, or ruffle of the sea to give us warning. I could only see +that it extended about a mile on each side of us; but, as it is +probable that it extends much farther, I have laid it down +so in my sketch.</p> + +<p>I now directed my course W by N for the night, and +served to each person an ounce of the damaged bread, and +a quarter of a pint of water, for supper.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. May 7.</div> + +<p>It may readily be supposed, that our lodgings were very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> +miserable and confined, and I had only in my power to remedy +the latter defect by putting ourselves at watch and +watch; so that one half always sat up while the other lay +down on the boat's bottom, or upon a chest, with nothing +to cover us but the heavens. Our limbs were dreadfully +cramped, for we could not stretch them out, and the nights +were so cold, and we so constantly wet, that after a few hours +sleep we could scarce move.</p> + +<p>At dawn of day we again discovered land from W S W +to W N W, and another island N N W, the latter a high +round lump of but little extent; and I could see the southern +land that I had passed in the night. Being very wet +and cold, I served a spoonful of rum and a morsel of +bread for breakfast.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 7.</div> + +<p>As I advanced towards the land in the west, it appeared +in a variety of forms; some extraordinary high rocks, and +the country agreeably interspersed with high and low land, +covered in some places with wood. Off the N E part lay +two small rocky islands, between which and the island to the +N E, 4 leagues apart, I directed my course; but a lee current +very unexpectedly set us very near to the shore, and I could +only get clear of it by rowing, passing close to the reef that +surrounded the rocky isles. We now observed two large +sailing canoes coming swiftly after us along shore, and, +being apprehensive of their intentions, we rowed with some +anxiety, being sensible of our weak and defenceless state. +It was now noon, calm and cloudy weather, my latitude is +therefore doubtful to 3 or 4 miles; my course since yesterday +noon N 56 W, distance 79 miles; latitude by account, 16° 29´ S, +and longitude by account, from Tofoa, 6° 46´ W. Being +constantly wet, it was with the utmost difficulty I could +open a book to write, and I am sensible that what I have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> +done can only serve to point out where these lands are to be +found again, and give an idea of their extent.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Friday 8.</div> + +<p>Friday, 8th May. All the afternoon the weather was very +rainy, attended with thunder and lightning. Wind N N E.</p> + +<p>Only one of the canoes gained upon us, and by three +o'clock in the afternoon was not more than two miles off, +when she gave over chase.</p> + +<p>If I may judge from the sail of the vessels, they are the +same as at the Friendly Islands, and the nearness of their +situation leaves little room to doubt of their being the same +kind of people. Whether these canoes had any hostile intention +against us is a matter of doubt; perhaps we might +have benefited by an intercourse with them, but in our defenceless +situation it would have been risking too much to +make the experiment.</p> + +<p>I imagine these to be the islands called Feejee, as their extent, +direction, and distance from the Friendly Islands, answers +to the description given of them by those Islanders. +Heavy rain came on at four o'clock, when every person did +their utmost to catch some water, and we increased our +stock to 34 gallons, besides quenching our thirst for the first +time since we had been at sea; but an attendant consequence +made us pass the night very miserably, for, being +extremely wet, and no dry things to shift or cover us, we experienced +cold and shiverings scarce to be conceived. Most +fortunately for us, the forenoon turned out fair, and we +stripped and dried our cloaths. The allowance I issued +to-day, was an ounce and a half of pork, a tea-spoonful of +rum, half a pint of cocoa-nut milk, and an ounce of bread. +The rum, though so small in quantity, was of the greatest +service. A fishing-line was generally towing, and we saw +great numbers of fish, but could never catch one.</p> + +<p>At noon, I observed, in latitude 16° 4´ S, and found I had<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> +made a course, from yesterday noon, N 62° W, distance 62 +miles; longitude, by account, from Tofoa, 7° 42´ W.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 8.</div> + +<p>The land I passed yesterday, and the day before, is +a group of islands, 14 or 16 in number, lying between the +latitude of 16° 26´ S and 17° 57´ S, and in longitude, by my +account, 4° 47´ to 7° 17´ W from Tofoa; three of these islands +are very large, having from 30 to 40 leagues of sea-coast.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Saturday 9.</div> + +<p>Saturday, 9th May. Fine weather, and light winds from +the N E to E by S.</p> + +<p>This afternoon we cleaned out the boat, and it employed +us till sun-set to get every thing dry and in order. +Hitherto I had issued the allowance by guess, but I now got +a pair of scales, made with two cocoa-nut shells; and, having +accidentally some pistol-balls in the boat, 25<a name="FNanchor2" id="FNanchor2"></a><a href="#Footnote2" class="fnanchor">[*]</a> of which +weighed one pound, or 16 ounces, I adopted one, as the proportion +of weight that each person should receive of bread +at the times I served it. I also amused all hands, with describing +the situation of New Guinea and New Holland, and +gave them every information in my power, that in case any +accident happened to me, those who survived might have +some idea of what they were about, and be able to find +their way to Timor, which at present they knew nothing of, +more than the name, and some not that.</p> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote2" id="Footnote2"></a><a href="#FNanchor2"><span class="label">[*]</span></a> It weighed 272 grains.</p></div> + +<p>At night I served a quarter of a pint of water, and half an +ounce of bread, for supper. In the morning, a quarter of a +pint of cocoa-nut milk, and some of the decayed bread, for +breakfast; and for dinner, I divided the meat of four cocoa-nuts, +with the remainder of the rotten bread, which was +only eatable by such distressed people.</p> + +<p>At noon, I observed the latitude to be 15° 47´ S; course +since yesterday N 75° W; distant 64 miles; longitude made, +by account, 8° 45´ W.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789 <span class="smcap">May</span> 10.</div> + +<div class="sidenote">Sunday 10.</div> + +<p>Sunday, May the 10th. The first part of this day fine +weather; but after sun-set it became squally, with hard rain, +thunder, and lightning, and a fresh gale; wind E by S, +S E, and S S E.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon I got fitted a pair of shrouds for each mast +and contrived a canvass weather cloth round the boat, and +raised the quarters about nine inches, by nailing on the seats +of the stern sheets, which proved of great benefit to us.</p> + +<p>About nine o'clock in the evening, the clouds began to gather, +and we had a prodigious fall of rain, with severe thunder +and lightning. By midnight we had caught about +twenty gallons of water. Being miserably wet and cold, I +served to each person a tea-spoonful of rum, to enable them +to bear with their distressed situation. The weather continued +extremely bad, and the wind increased; we spent a very +miserable night, without sleep, but such as could be got in +the midst of rain. The day brought us no relief but its +light. The sea was constantly breaking over us, which kept +two persons baling; and we had no choice how to steer, for +we were obliged to keep before the waves to avoid filling +the boat.</p> + +<p>The allowance which I now regularly served to each +person was one 25th of a pound of bread, and a quarter of a +pint of water, at sun-set, eight in the morning, and at noon. +To-day I gave about half an ounce of pork for dinner, +which, though any moderate person would have considered +but a mouthful, was divided into three or four.</p> + +<p>The rain abated towards noon, and I observed the latitude +to be 15° 17´ S; course N 67° W; distance 78 miles; +longitude made 10° W.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Monday 11.</div> + +<p>Monday, May the 11th. Strong gales from S S E to +S E, and very squally weather, with a high breaking sea, so +that we were miserably wet, and suffered great cold in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> +night. In the morning at day-break I served to every person +a tea-spoonful of rum, our limbs being so cramped that +we could scarce feel the use of them. Our situation was +now extremely dangerous, the sea frequently running over +our stern, which kept us baling with all our strength.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 11.</div> + +<p>At noon the sun appeared, which gave us as much pleasure +as in a winter's day in England. I issued the 25th of a +pound of bread, and a quarter of a pint of water, as yesterday. +Latitude observed 14° 50´ S; course N 71° W; distance 102 +miles; and longitude, by account, 11° 39´ W. from Tofoa.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Tuesday 12.</div> + +<p>Tuesday, May the 12th. Strong gales at S E, with +much rain and dark dismal weather, moderating towards +noon and wind varying to the N E.</p> + +<p>Having again experienced a dreadful night, the day showed +to me a poor miserable set of beings full of wants, without +any thing to relieve them. Some complained of a great +pain in their bowels, and all of having but very little use +of their limbs. What sleep we got was scarce refreshing, +we being covered with sea and rain. Two persons were +obliged to be always baling the water out of the boat. I +served a spoonful of rum at day-dawn, and the usual allowance +of bread and water, for supper, breakfast, and +dinner.</p> + +<p>At noon it was almost calm, no sun to be seen, and some +of us shivering with cold. Course since yesterday W by N; +distance 89 miles; latitude, by account, 14° 33´ S; longitude +made 13° 9´ W. The direction of my course is to pass to +the northward of the New Hebrides.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Wednesday 13.</div> + +<p>Wednesday, May the 13th. Very squally weather, wind +southerly. As I saw no prospect of getting our cloaths +dried, I recommended it to every one to strip, and wring +them through the salt water, by which means they received<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> +a warmth, that, while wet with rain, they could not have, +and we were less liable to suffer from colds or rheumatic +complaints.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 13.</div> + +<p>In the afternoon we saw a kind of fruit on the water, +which Mr. Nelson knew to be the Barringtonia of Forster, +and, as I saw the same again in the morning, and some +men of war birds, I was led to believe we were not far +from land.</p> + +<p>We continued constantly shipping seas, and baling, and +were very wet and cold in the night; but I could not afford +the allowance of rum at day-break. The twenty-fifth of a +pound of bread, and water I served as usual. At noon I +had a sight of the sun, latitude 14° 17´ S; course W by N +79 miles; longitude made 14° 28´ W.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Thursday 14.</div> + +<p>Thursday, May the 14th. Fresh breezes and cloudy +weather, wind southerly. Constantly shipping water, and +very wet, suffering much cold and shiverings in the night. +Served the usual allowance of bread and water, three times +a day.</p> + +<p>At six in the morning, we saw land, from S W by S eight +leagues, to N W by W 3/4 W six leagues, which I soon after +found to be four islands, all of them high and remarkable. +At noon discovered a rocky island N W by N four +leagues, and another island W eight leagues, so that the +whole were six in number; the four I had first seen bearing +from S 1/2 E to S W by S; our distance three leagues from +the nearest island. My latitude observed was 13° 29´ S, and +longitude, by account, from Tofoa, 15° 49´ W; course since +yesterday noon N 63° W; distance 89 miles.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Friday 15.</div> + +<p>Friday, May the 15th. Fresh gales at S E, and gloomy +weather with rain, and a very high sea; two people constantly +employed baling.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 15.</div> + +<p>At four in the afternoon I passed the westernmost island. +At one in the morning I discovered another, bearing +W N W, five leagues distance, and at eight o'clock I saw +it for the last time, bearing N E seven leagues. A number +of gannets, boobies, and men of war birds were seen.</p> + +<p>These islands lie between the latitude of 13° 16´ S and +14° 10´ S: their longitude, according to my reckoning, +15° 51´ to 17° 6´ W from the island Tofoa<a name="FNanchor3" id="FNanchor3"></a><a href="#Footnote3" class="fnanchor">[*]</a>. The largest +island may be twenty leagues in circuit, the others five or +six. The easternmost is the smallest island, and most remarkable, +having a high sugar-loaf hill.</p> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote3" id="Footnote3"></a><a href="#FNanchor3"><span class="label">[*]</span></a> By making a proportional allowance for the error afterwards found in the dead +reckoning, I estimate the longitude of these islands to be from 167° 17´ E to 168° 34´ E +from Greenwich.</p></div> + +<p>The sight of these islands served but to increase the +misery of our situation. We were very little better than +starving, with plenty in view; yet to attempt procuring +any relief was attended with so much danger, that prolonging +of life, even in the midst of misery, was thought +preferable, while there remained hopes of being able to +surmount our hardships. For my own part, I consider the +general run of cloudy and wet weather to be a blessing of +Providence. Hot weather would have caused us to have +died with thirst; and perhaps being so constantly covered +with rain or sea protected us from that dreadful calamity.</p> + +<p>As I had nothing to assist my memory, I could not determine +whether these islands were a part of the New Hebrides +or not: I believed them perfectly a new discovery, +which I have since found to be the case; but, though they +were not seen either by Monsieur Bougainville or Captain +Cook, they are so nearly in the neighbourhood of the New +Hebrides, that they must be considered as part of the same +group. They are fertile, and inhabited, as I saw smoke in +several places.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 16.</div> + +<div class="sidenote">Saturday 16.</div> + +<p>Saturday, May the 16th. Fresh gales from the S E, and +rainy weather. The night was very dark, not a star to be +seen to steer by, and the sea breaking constantly over us. I +found it necessary to act as much as possible against the +southerly winds, to prevent being driven too near New +Guinea; for in general we were forced to keep so much +before the sea, that if we had not, at intervals of moderate +weather, steered a more southerly course, we should inevitably, +from a continuance of the gales, have been thrown +in sight of that coast: in which case there would most probably +have been an end to our voyage.</p> + +<p>In addition to our miserable allowance of one 25th of a +pound of bread, and a quarter of a pint of water, I issued for +dinner about an ounce of salt pork to each person. I was +often solicited for this pork, but I considered it better to give +it in small quantities than to use all at once or twice, which +would have been done if I had allowed it.</p> + +<p>At noon I observed, in 13° 33´ S; longitude made from +Tofoa, 19° 27´ W; course N 82° W; distance 101 miles. +The sun gave us hopes of drying our wet cloaths.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Sunday 17.</div> + +<p>Sunday, May the 17th. The sunshine was but of +short duration. We had strong breezes at S E by S, +and dark gloomy weather, with storms of thunder, lightning, +and rain. The night was truly horrible, and not a +star to be seen; so that our steerage was uncertain. At +dawn of day I found every person complaining, and some +of them soliciting extra allowance; but I positively refused +it. Our situation was extremely miserable; always wet, +and suffering extreme cold in the night, without the least +shelter from the weather. Being constantly obliged to bale, +to keep the boat from filling, was, perhaps, not to be reckoned +an evil, as it gave us exercise.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 17.</div> + +<p>The little rum I had was of great service to us; when +our nights were particularly distressing, I generally served a +tea-spoonful or two to each person: and it was always joyful +tidings when they heard of my intentions.</p> + +<p>At noon a water-spout was very near on board of us. I +issued an ounce of pork, in addition to the allowance of +bread and water; but before we began to eat, every person +stript and wrung their cloaths through the sea-water, +which we found warm and refreshing. Course since yesterday +noon W S W; distance 100 miles; latitude, by account, +14° 11´ S, and longitude made 21° 3´ W.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Monday 18.</div> + +<p>Monday, May the 18th. Fresh gales with rain, and a +dark dismal night, wind S E; the sea constantly breaking +over us, and nothing but the wind and sea to direct +our steerage. I now fully determined to make New Holland, +to the southward of Endeavour straits, sensible +that it was necessary to preserve such a situation as +would make a southerly wind a fair one; that I might +range the reefs until an opening should be found into +smooth water, and we the sooner be able to pick up some +refreshments.</p> + +<p>In the morning the rain abated, when we stripped, and +wrung our cloaths through the sea-water, as usual, which +refreshed us wonderfully. Every person complained of +violent pain in their bones: I was only surprised that no +one was yet laid up. Served one 25th of a pound of bread, +and a quarter of a pint of water, at supper, breakfast, and +dinner, as customary.</p> + +<p>At noon I deduced my situation, by account, for we had +no glimpse of the sun, to be in latitude 14° 52´ S; course since +yesterday noon W S W 106 miles; longitude made from +Tofoa 22° 45´ W. Saw many boobies and noddies, a sign +of being in the neighbourhood of land.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. May 19. Tuesday 19.</div> + +<p>Tuesday, May the 19th. Fresh gales at E N E, with heavy +rain, and dark gloomy weather, and no sight of the sun. +We past this day miserably wet and cold, covered with +rain and sea, from which we had no relief, but at intervals +by pulling off our cloaths and wringing them through the +sea water. In the night we had very severe lightning, but +otherwise it was so dark that we could not see each other. +The morning produced many complaints on the severity of +the weather, and I would gladly have issued my allowance +of rum, if it had not appeared to me that we were to suffer +much more, and that it was necessary to preserve the little +I had, to give relief at a time we might be less able to +bear such hardships; but, to make up for it, I served out +about half an ounce of pork to each person, with the common +allowance of bread and water, for dinner. All night +and day we were obliged to bale without intermission.</p> + +<p>At noon it was very bad weather and constant rain; latitude, +by account, 14° 37´ S; course since yesterday N 81° W; +distance 100 miles; longitude made 24° 30´ W.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Wednesday 20.</div> + +<p>Wednesday, May the 20th. Fresh breezes E N E with +constant rain; at times a deluge. Always baling.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. May 20.</div> + +<p>At dawn of day, some of my people seemed half dead: +our appearances were horrible; and I could look no way, +but I caught the eye of some one in distress. Extreme +hunger was now too evident, but no one suffered from thirst, +nor had we much inclination to drink, that desire, perhaps, +being satisfied through the skin. The little sleep we got +was in the midst of water, and we constantly awoke with +severe cramps and pains in our bones. This morning I +served about two tea-spoonfuls of rum to each person, and +the allowance of bread and water, as usual. At noon +the sun broke out, and revived every one. I found we were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> +in latitude 14° 49´ S; longitude made 25° 46´ W; course S +88° W; distance 75 miles.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Thursday 21.</div> + +<p>Thursday, May the 21st. Fresh gales, and heavy showers +of rain. Wind E N E.</p> + +<p>Our distresses were now very great, and we were so covered +with rain and salt water, that we could scarcely see. Sleep, +though we longed for it, afforded no comfort: for my own +part, I almost lived without it: we suffered extreme cold, and +every one dreaded the approach of night. About two o'clock +in the morning we were overwhelmed with a deluge of rain. +It fell so heavy that we were afraid it would fill the boat, and +were obliged to bale with all our might. At dawn of day, I +served a large allowance of rum. Towards noon the rain +abated and the sun shone, but we were miserably cold and +wet, the sea breaking so constantly over us, that, notwithstanding +the heavy rain, we had not been able to add to our +stock of fresh water. The usual allowance of one 25th of a +pound of bread and water was served at evening, morning, +and noon. Latitude, by observation, 14° 29´ S, and longitude +made, by account, from Tofoa, 27° 25´ W; course, since +yesterday noon, N 78° W, 99 miles. I now considered myself +on a meridian with the east part of New Guinea, and +about 65 leagues distant from the coast of New Holland.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Friday 22.</div> + +<p>Friday, May the 22nd. Strong gales from E S E to S S E, a +high sea, and dark dismal night.</p> + +<p>Our situation this day was extremely calamitous. We +were obliged to take the course of the sea, running right +before it, and watching with the utmost care, as the least error +in the helm would in a moment have been our destruction. +The sea was continually breaking all over us; +but, as we suffered not such cold as when wet with the rain, +I only served the common allowance of bread and water.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 22.</div> + +<p>At noon it blew very hard, and the foam of the sea kept +running over our stern and quarters; I however got propped +up, and made an observation of the latitude, in 14° 17´ S; +course N 85° W; distance 130 miles; longitude made 29° 38´ +west.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Saturday 23.</div> + +<p>Saturday, May the 23d. Strong gales with very hard +squalls, and rain; wind S E, and S S E.</p> + +<p>The misery we suffered this day exceeded the preceding. +The night was dreadful. The sea flew over us with great +force, and kept us baling with horror and anxiety. At +dawn of day I found every one in a most distressed condition, +and I now began to fear that another such a night +would put an end to the lives of several who seemed no +longer able to support such sufferings. Every one complained +of severe pains in their bones; but these were alleviated, +in some degree, by an allowance of two tea-spoonfuls of +rum; after drinking which, having wrung our cloaths, and +taken our breakfast of bread and water, we became a little +refreshed.</p> + +<p>Towards noon it became fair weather; but with very little +abatement of the gale, and the sea remained equally high. +With great difficulty I observed the latitude to be 13° 44´ S; +course N 74° W; distance 116 miles since yesterday; longitude +made 31° 32´ W from Tofoa.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Sunday 24.</div> + +<p>Sunday, May the 24th. Fresh gales and fine weather; +wind S S E and S.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 24.</div> + +<p>Towards the evening the weather looked much better, +which rejoiced all hands, so that they eat their scanty allowance +with more satisfaction than for some time past. The +night also was fair; but, being always wet with the sea, we +suffered much from the cold. A fine morning, I had the +pleasure to see, produce some chearful countenances. Towards +noon the weather improved, and, the first time for 15<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> +days past, we found a little warmth from the sun. We stripped, +and hung our cloaths up to dry, which were by this +time become so thread-bare, that they would not keep out +either wet or cold.</p> + +<p>At noon I observed in latitude 13° 33´ S; longitude, by account, +from Tofoa 33° 28´ W; course N 84° W; distance 114 +miles. With the usual allowance of bread and water for +dinner, I served an ounce of pork to each person.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Monday 25.</div> + +<p>Monday, May the 25th. Fresh gales and fair weather. +Wind S S E.</p> + +<p>This afternoon we had many birds about us, which are +never seen far from land, such as boobies and noddies.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Allowance lessened.</div> + +<p>About three o'clock the sea began to run fair, and we +shipped but little water, I therefore determined to know +the exact quantity of bread I had left; and on examining +found, according to my present issues, sufficient for 29 days +allowance. In the course of this time I hoped to be at +Timor; but, as that was very uncertain, and perhaps after +all we might be obliged to go to Java, I determined to proportion +my issues to six weeks. I was apprehensive that +this would be ill received, and that it would require my +utmost resolution to enforce it; for, small as the quantity +was which I intended to take away, for our future good, +yet it might appear to my people like robbing them of +life, and some, who were less patient than their companions, +I expected would very ill brook it. I however +represented it so essentially necessary to guard against delays +in our voyage by contrary winds, or other causes, +promising to enlarge upon the allowance as we got on, that +it was readily agreed to. I therefore fixed, that every person +should receive one 25th of a pound of bread for breakfast, +and one 25th of a pound for dinner; so that by omitting +the proportion for supper, I had 43 days allowance.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 25.</div> + +<p>At noon some noddies came so near to us, that one of +them was caught by hand. This bird is about the size of +a small pigeon. I divided it, with its entrails, into 18 portions, +and by the method of, Who shall have this<a name="FNanchor4" id="FNanchor4"></a><a href="#Footnote4" class="fnanchor">[*]</a>? it was +distributed with the allowance of bread and water for dinner, +and eat up bones and all, with salt water for sauce. I observed +the latitude 13° 32´ S; longitude made 35° 19´ W; and course +N 89° W; distance 108 miles.</p> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote4" id="Footnote4"></a><a href="#FNanchor4"><span class="label">[*]</span></a> One person turns his back on the object that is to be +divided: another then points separately to the portions, at each of them +asking aloud, "Who shall have this?" to which the first answers by +naming somebody. This impartial method of division gives every man an +equal chance of the best share.</p></div> + +<div class="sidenote">Tuesday 26.</div> + +<p>Tuesday, May the 26th. Fresh gales at S S E, and fine +weather.</p> + +<p>In the evening we saw several boobies flying so near to +us, that we caught one of them by hand. This bird is as +large as a good duck; like the noddy, it has received its +name from seamen, for suffering itself to be caught on the +masts and yards of ships. They are the most presumptive +proofs of being in the neighbourhood of land of any sea-fowl +we are acquainted with. I directed the bird to be killed +for supper, and the blood to be given to three of the people +who were the most distressed for want of food. The body, +with the entrails, beak, and feet, I divided into 18 shares, +and with an allowance of bread, which I made a merit of +granting, we made a good supper, compared with our usual +fare.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 26.</div> + +<p>In the morning we caught another booby, so that Providence +seemed to be relieving our wants in a very extraordinary +manner. Towards noon we passed a great many +pieces of the branches of trees, some of which appeared to +have been no long time in the water. I had a good obser<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span>vation +for the latitude, and found my situation to be in +13° 41´ S; my longitude, by account, from Tofoa, 37° 13´ W; +course S 85° W, 112 miles. Every person was now overjoyed +at the addition to their dinner, which I distributed as I had +done in the evening; giving the blood to those who were +the most in want of food.</p> + +<p>To make our bread a little savoury we frequently dipped +it in salt water; but for my own part I generally broke mine +into small pieces, and eat it in my allowance of water, out +of a cocoa-nut shell, with a spoon, economically avoiding to +take too large a piece at a time, so that I was as long at +dinner as if it had been a much more plentiful meal.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Wednesday 27.</div> + +<p>Wednesday, May the 27th. Fresh breezes south-easterly, +and fine weather.</p> + +<p>The weather was now serene, but unhappily we found +ourselves unable to bear the sun's heat; many of us suffering +a languor and faintness, which made life indifferent. We +were, however, so fortunate as to catch two boobies to-day; +their stomachs contained several flying-fish and small cuttlefish, +all of which I saved to be divided for dinner.</p> + +<p>We passed much drift wood, and saw many birds; I +therefore did not hesitate to pronounce that we were near +the reefs of New Holland, and assured every one I would +make the coast without delay, in the parallel we were in, +and range the reef till I found an opening, through which +we might get into smooth water, and pick up some supplies. +From my recollection of captain Cook's survey of +this coast, I considered the direction of it to be N W, and +I was therefore satisfied that, with the wind to the southward +of E, I could always clear any dangers.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 27.</div> + +<p>At noon I observed in latitude 13° 26´ S; course since yesterday +N 82° W; distance 109 miles; longitude made 39° 4´ W.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> +After writing my account, I divided the two birds with +their entrails, and the contents of their maws, into 18 portions, +and, as the prize was a very valuable one, it was divided +as before, by calling out Who shall have this? so that +to-day, with the allowance of a 25th of a pound of bread at +breakfast, and another at dinner, with the proportion of +water, I was happy to see that every person thought he had +feasted.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Thursday 28.</div> + +<p>Thursday, May the 28th. Fresh breezes and fair weather; +wind E S E and E.</p> + +<p>In the evening we saw a gannet; and the clouds remained +so fixed in the west, that I had little doubt of our being near +to New Holland; and every person, after taking his allowance +of water for supper, began to divert himself with conversing +on the probability of what we should find.</p> + +<p>At one in the morning the person at the helm heard the +sound of breakers, and I no sooner lifted up my head, than +I saw them close under our lee, not more than a quarter of +a mile distant from us. I immediately hauled on a wind to +the N N E, and in ten minutes time we could neither see +nor hear them.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 28.</div> + +<p>I have already mentioned my reason for making New +Holland so far to the southward; for I never doubted of +numerous openings in the reef, through which I could +have access to the shore: and, knowing the inclination of +the coast to be to the N W, and the wind mostly to the +southward of E, I could with ease range such a barrier +of reefs till I should find a passage, which now became absolutely +necessary, without a moment's loss of time. The +idea of getting into smooth water, and finding refreshments, +kept my people's spirits up: their joy was very +great after we had got clear of the breakers, to which we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> +had been much nearer than I thought was possible to be +before we saw them.</p> + +<p>In the morning, at day-light, I bore away again for the +reefs, and saw them by nine o'clock. The sea broke furiously +over every part, and I had no sooner got near to +them, than the wind came at E, so that we could only lie +along the line of the breakers, within which we saw the +water so smooth, that every person already anticipated the +heart-felt satisfaction he would receive, as soon as we could +get within them. But I now found we were embayed, +for I could not lie clear with my sails, the wind having +backed against us, and the sea set in so heavy towards +the reef that our situation was become dangerous. We +could effect but little with the oars, having scarce strength +to pull them; and it was becoming every minute more and +more probable that we should be obliged to attempt pushing +over the reef, in case we could not pull off. Even this I did +not despair of effecting with success, when happily we discovered +a break in the reef, about one mile from us, and at +the same time an island of a moderate height within it, +nearly in the same direction, bearing W 1/2 N. I entered the +passage with a strong stream running to the westward; and +found it about a quarter of a mile broad, with every appearance +of deep water.</p> + +<p>On the outside, the reef inclined to the N E for a few +miles, and from thence to the N W; on the south side of +the entrance, it inclined to the S S W as far as I could see it; +and I conjecture that a similar passage to this which we +now entered, may be found near the breakers that I first +discovered, which are 23 miles S of this channel.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 28.</div> + +<p>I did not recollect what latitude Providential channel<a name="FNanchor5" id="FNanchor5"></a> +<a href="#Footnote5" class="fnanchor">[*]</a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> +lies in, but I considered it to be within a few miles of this, +which is situate in 12° 51´ S latitude.</p> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote5" id="Footnote5"></a><a href="#FNanchor5"><span class="label">[*]</span></a> Providential Channel is in 12° 34´ S, longitude 143° 33´ E.</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:800px"> +<a href="images/map4-lg.png"> +<img name="map4" id="map4" src="images/map4-sml.png" alt="NE Coast of New Holland" /></a> +<p class="caption">NE Coast of New Holland</p> +</div> + +<p>Being now happily within the reefs, and in smooth +water, I endeavoured to keep near them to try for fish; +but the tide set us to the N W; I therefore bore away in +that direction, and, having promised to land on the first +convenient spot we could find, all our past hardships seemed +already to be forgotten.</p> + +<p>At noon I had a good observation, by which our latitude +was 12° 46´ S, whence the foregoing situations may be considered +as determined with some exactness. The island first +seen bore W S W five leagues. This, which I have called +the island Direction, will in fair weather always shew the +channel, from which it bears due W, and may be seen as +soon as the reefs, from a ship's mast-head: it lies in the +latitude of 12° 51´ S. These, however, are marks too small +for a ship to hit, unless it can hereafter be ascertained that +passages through the reef are numerous along the coast, +which I am inclined to think they are, and then there would +be little risk if the wind was not directly on the shore.</p> + +<p>My longitude, made by dead reckoning, from the island +Tofoa to our passage through the reef, is 40° 10´ W. Providential +channel, I imagine, must lie very nearly under the +same meridian with our passage; by which it appears we +had out-run our reckoning 1° 9´.</p> + +<p>We now returned God thanks for his gracious protection, +and with much content took our miserable allowance +of a 25th of a pound of bread, and a quarter of a pint of +water, for dinner.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Friday 29.</div> + +<p>Friday, May the 29th. Moderate breezes and fine weather, +wind E S E.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 29.</div> + +<p>As we advanced within the reefs, the coast began to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> +shew itself very distinctly, with a variety of high and low +land; some parts of which were covered with wood. In +our way towards the shore we fell in with a point of a reef, +which is connected with that towards the sea, and here I +came to a grapnel, and tried to catch fish, but had no success. +The island Direction now bore S three or four +leagues. Two islands lay about four miles to the W by N, +and appeared eligible for a resting-place, if nothing more; +but on my approach to the first I found it only a heap of +stones, and its size too inconsiderable to shelter the boat. I +therefore proceeded to the next, which was close to it and +towards the main, where, on the N W side, I found a bay +and a fine sandy point to land at. Our distance was about a +quarter of a mile from a projecting part of the main, bearing +from S W by S, to N N W 3/4 W. I now landed to examine +if there were any signs of the natives being near us; but +though I discovered some old fire-places, I saw nothing to +alarm me for our situation during the night. Every one +was anxious to find something to eat, and I soon heard that +there were oysters on the rocks, for the tide was out; but it +was nearly dark, and only a few could be gathered. I determined +therefore to wait till the morning, to know how +to proceed, and I consented that one half of us should sleep +on shore, and the other in the boat. We would gladly +have made a fire, but, as we could not accomplish it, we +took our rest for the night, which happily was calm and +undisturbed.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 29.</div> + +<p>The dawn of day brought greater strength and spirits to +us than I expected; for, notwithstanding every one was +very weak, there appeared strength sufficient remaining to +make me conceive the most favourable hopes of our being<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> +able to surmount the difficulties we might yet have to encounter.</p> + +<p>As soon as I saw that there were not any natives immediately +near us, I sent out parties in search of supplies, +while others were putting the boat in order, that I might +be ready to go to sea in case any unforeseen cause might +make it necessary. The first object of this work, that demanded +our attention, was the rudder: one of the gudgeons +had come out, in the course of the night, and was +lost. This, if it had happened at sea, would probably have +been the cause of our perishing, as the management of the +boat could not have been so nicely preserved as these very +heavy seas required. I had often expressed my fears of this +accident, and, that we might be prepared for it, had taken +the precaution to have grummets fixed on each quarter of +the boat for oars; but even our utmost readiness in using +them, I fear, would not have saved us. It appears, therefore, +a providential circumstance, that it happened at this +place, and was in our power to remedy the defect; for by +great good luck we found a large staple in the boat that +answered the purpose.</p> + +<p>The parties were now returned, highly rejoiced at having +found plenty of oysters and fresh water. I also had +made a fire, by help of a small magnifying glass, that I +always carried about me, to read off the divisions of my +sextants; and, what was still more fortunate, among the +few things which had been thrown into the boat and +saved, was a piece of brimstone and a tinder-box, so that I +secured fire for the future.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 29.</div> + +<p>One of my people had been so provident as to bring +away with him a copper pot: it was by being in possession +of this article that I was enabled to make a proper use of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> +the supply we found, for, with a mixture of bread and +a little pork, I made a stew that might have been relished +by people of more delicate appetites, of which each person +received a full pint.</p> + +<p>The general complaints of disease among us, were a dizziness +in the head, great weakness of the joints, and violent +tenesmus, most of us having had no evacuation by stool +since we left the ship. I had constantly a severe pain at my +stomach; but none of our complaints were alarming; on +the contrary, every one retained marks of strength, that, +with a mind possessed of any fortitude, could bear more fatigue +than I hoped we had to undergo in our voyage to +Timor.</p> + +<p>As I would not allow the people to expose themselves to +the heat of the sun, it being near noon, every one took his +allotment of earth, shaded by the bushes, for a short sleep.</p> + +<p>The oysters we found grew so fast to the rocks that it +was with difficulty they could be broke off, and at last we +discovered it to be the most expeditious way to open them +where they were found. They were very sizeable, and +well tasted, and gave us great relief. To add to this happy +circumstance, in the hollow of the land there grew some +wire grass, which indicated a moist situation. On forcing +a stick, about three feet long, into the ground, we found +water, and with little trouble dug a well, which produced +as much as we were in need of. It was very good, but I +could not determine if it was a spring or not. Our wants +made it not necessary to make the well deep, for it +flowed as fast as we emptied it; which, as the soil was apparently +too loose to retain water from the rains, renders it +probable to be a spring. It lies about 200 yards to the +S E of a point in the S W part of the island.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 29.</div> + +<p>I found evident signs of the natives resorting to this +island; for, besides fire-places, I saw two miserable wigwams, +having only one side loosely covered. We found a +pointed stick, about three feet long, with a slit in the end +of it, to sling stones with, the same as the natives of Van +Diemen's land use.</p> + +<p>The track of some animal was very discernible, and Mr. +Nelson agreed with me that it was the Kanguroo; but how +these animals can get from the main I know not, unless +brought over by the natives to breed, that they may take +them with more ease, and render a supply of food certain +to them; as on the continent the catching of them may be +precarious, or attended with great trouble, in so large an +extent of country.</p> + +<p>The island may be about two miles in circuit; it is a high +lump of rocks and stones covered with wood; but the trees +are small, the soil, which is very indifferent and sandy, +being barely sufficient to produce them. The trees that +came within our knowledge were the manchineal and +a species of purow: also some palm-trees, the tops of which +we cut down, and the soft interior part or heart of them +was so palatable that it made a good addition to our mess. +Mr. Nelson discovered some fern-roots, which I thought +might be good roasted, as a substitute for bread, but it +proved a very poor one: it however was very good in its +natural state to allay thirst, and on that account I directed a +quantity to be collected to take into the boat. Many pieces +of cocoa-nut shells and husk were found about the shore, +but we could find no cocoa-nut trees, neither did I see any +like them on the main.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 29.</div> + +<p>I had cautioned every one not to touch any kind of +berry or fruit that they might find; yet they were no<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> +sooner out of my sight than they began to make free with +three different kinds, that grew all over the island, eating +without any reserve. The symptoms of having eaten too +much, began at last to frighten same of them; but on +questioning others, who had taken a more moderate allowance, +their minds were a little quieted. The others, however, +became equally alarmed in their turn, dreading that +such symptoms would come on, and that they were all +poisoned, so that they regarded each other with the +strongest marks of apprehension, uncertain what would be +the issue of their imprudence. Happily the fruit proved +wholesome and good. One sort grew on a small delicate +kind of vine; they were the size of a large gooseberry, and +very like in substance, but had only a sweet taste; the +skin was a pale red, streaked with yellow the long way of +the fruit: it was pleasant and agreeable. Another kind +grew on bushes, like that which is called the sea-side grape +in the West Indies; but the fruit was very different, and +more like elder-berries, growing in clusters in the same +manner. The third sort was a black berry, not in such +plenty as the others, and resembled a bullace, or large kind +of sloe, both in size and taste. Seeing these fruits eaten by +the birds made me consider them fit for use, and those +who had already tried the experiment, not finding any +bad effect, made it a certainty that we might eat of them +without danger.</p> + +<p>Wild pigeons, parrots, and other birds, were about the +summit of the island, but, as I had no fire-arms, relief of +that kind was not to be expected, unless I met with some +unfrequented spot where we might take them with our +hands.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 29.</div> + +<p>On the south side of the island, and about half a mile<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> +from the well, a small run of water was found; but, as its +source was not traced, I know nothing more of it.</p> + +<p>The shore of this island is very rocky, except the part +we landed at, and here I picked up many pieces of pumice-stone. +On the part of the main next to us were several +sandy bays, but at low-water they became an extensive +rocky flat. The country had rather a barren appearance, +except in a few places where it was covered with wood. +A remarkable range of rocks lay a few miles to the S W, +or a high peaked hill terminated the coast towards the +sea, with other high lands and islands to the southward. +A high fair cape showed the direction of the coast to the +N W, about seven leagues, and two small isles lay three +or four leagues to the northward.</p> + +<p>I saw a few bees or wasps, several lizards, and the blackberry +bushes were full of ants nests, webbed as a spider's, +but so close and compact as not to admit the rain.</p> + +<p>A trunk of a tree, about 50 feet long, lay on the beach; +from whence I conclude a heavy sea runs in here with the +northerly winds.</p> + +<p>This being the day of the restoration of king Charles +the Second, and the name not being inapplicable to our +present situation (for we were restored to fresh life and +strength), I named this Restoration Island; for I thought it +probable that captain Cook might not have taken notice of +it. The other names I have presumed to give the different +parts of the coast, will be only to show my route a little +more distinctly.</p> + +<p>At noon I found the latitude of the island to be 12° 39´ S; +our course having been N 66° W; distance 18 miles from +yesterday noon.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Saturday 30.</div> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 30.</div> + +<p>Saturday, May the 30th. Very fine weather, and E S E<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> +winds. This afternoon I sent parties out again to gather +oysters, with which and some of the inner part of the +palm-top, we made another good stew for supper, each person +receiving a full pint and a half; but I refused bread to +this meal, for I considered our wants might yet be very +great, and as such I represented the necessity of saving our +principal support whenever it was in our power.</p> + +<p>At night we again divided, and one half of us slept on +shore by a good fire. In the morning I discovered a visible +alteration in every one for the better, and I sent them +away again to gather oysters. I had now only two pounds +of pork left. This article, which I could not keep under +lock and key as I did the bread, had been pilfered by some +inconsiderate person, but every one most solemnly denied +it; I therefore resolved to put it out of their power for the +future, by sharing what remained for our dinner. While +the party was out getting oysters, I got the boat in readiness +for sea, and filled all our water vessels, which amounted +to nearly 60 gallons.</p> + +<p>The party being returned, dinner was soon ready, and +every one had as good an allowance as they had for +supper; for with the pork I gave an allowance of bread; +as I was determined forthwith to push on. As it was +not yet noon, I told every one that an exertion should +be made to gather as many oysters as possible for a sea +store, as I was determined to sail in the afternoon.</p> + +<p>At noon I again observed the latitude 12° 39´ S; it was +then high-water, the tide had risen three feet, but I could +not be certain which way the flood came from. I deduce +the time of high-water at full and change to be ten +minutes past seven in the morning.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Sunday 31.</div> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 31.</div> + +<p>Sunday, May the 31st. Early in the afternoon, the peo<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span>ple +returned with the few oysters they had time to pick up, +and every thing was put into the boat. I then examined +the quantity of bread remaining, and found 38 days allowance, +according to the last mode of issuing a 25th of a pound +at breakfast and at dinner.</p> + +<p>Fair weather, and moderate breezes at E S E and S E.</p> + +<p>Being all ready for sea, I directed every person to attend +prayers, and by four o'clock we were preparing to embark; +when twenty natives appeared, running and holloaing to +us, on the opposite shore. They were armed with a spear +or lance, and a short weapon which they carried in their +left hand: they made signs for us to come to them. On +the top of the hills we saw the heads of many more; +whether these were their wives and children, or others +who waited for our landing, until which they meant not +to show themselves, lest we might be intimidated, I cannot +say; but, as I found we were discovered to be on the coast, +I thought it prudent to make the best of my way, for fear +of canoes; though, from the accounts of captain Cook, the +chance was that there were very few or none of any consequence. +I passed these people as near as I could, which +was within a quarter of a mile; they were naked, and +apparently black, and their hair or wool bushy and short.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 31.</div> + +<p>I directed my course within two small islands that lie to +the north of Restoration Island, passing between them and +the main land, towards Fair Cape, with a strong tide in my +favour; so that I was abreast of it by eight o'clock. The +coast I had passed was high and woody. As I could see no +land without Fair Cape, I concluded that the coast inclined +to the N W and W N W, which was agreeable to my recollection +of captain Cook's survey. I therefore steered more +towards the W; but by eleven o'clock at night I found<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> +myself mistaken: for we met with low land, which inclined +to the N E; so that at three o'clock in the morning I found +we were embayed, which obliged us to stand back to the +southward.</p> + +<p>At day-break I was exceedingly surprised to find the appearance +of the country all changed, as if in the course of +the night I had been transported to another part of the +world; for we had now a miserable low sandy coast in view, +with very little verdure, or any thing to indicate that it was +at all habitable to a human being, if I except some patches +of small trees or brush-wood.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 31.</div> + +<p>I had many small islands in view to the N E, about six +miles distant. The E part of the main bore N four miles, +and Fair Cape S S E five or six leagues. I took the channel +between the nearest island and the main land, about one +mile apart, leaving all the islands on the starboard side. +Some of these were very pretty spots, covered with wood, +and well situated for fishing; large shoals of fish were +about us, but we could not catch any. As I was passing this +strait we saw another party of Indians, seven in number, running +towards us, shouting and making signs for us to land. +Some of them waved green branches of the bushes which +were near them, as a sign of friendship; but there were +some of their other motions less friendly. A larger party +we saw a little farther off, and coming towards us. I therefore +determined not to land, though I wished much to +have had some intercourse with these people; for which +purpose I beckoned to them to come near to me, and laid +the boat close to the rocks; but not one would come +within 200 yards of us. They were armed in the same +manner as those I had seen from Restoration Island, were +stark naked, and appeared to be jet black, with short bushy<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> +hair or wool, and in every respect the same people. An +island of good height now bore N 1/2 W, four miles from +us, at which I resolved to see what could be got, and from +thence to take a look at the coast. At this isle I landed +about eight o'clock in the morning. The shore was rocky, +with some sandy beaches within the rocks: the water, +however, was smooth, and I landed without difficulty. +I sent two parties out, one to the northward, and the +other to the southward, to seek for supplies, and others +I ordered to stay by the boat. On this occasion their +fatigue and weakness so far got the better of their sense +of duty, that some of them began to mutter who had +done most, and declared they would rather be without +their dinner than go in search of it. One person, in +particular, went so far as to tell me, with a mutinous +look, he was as good a man as myself. It was not +possible for me to judge where this might have an end, if +not stopped in time; I therefore determined to strike a +final blow at it, and either to preserve my command, or +die in the attempt: and, seizing a cutlass, I ordered him +to take hold of another and defend himself; on which he +called out I was going to kill him, and began to make +concessions. I did not allow this to interfere further with +the harmony of the boat's crew, and every thing soon became +quiet.</p> + +<p>The parties continued collecting what could be found, +which consisted of some fine oysters and clams, and a few +small dog-fish that were caught in the holes of the rocks. +We also found about two tons of rain-water in the hollow of +the rocks, on the north part of the island, so that of this essential +article we were again so happy as not to be in want.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">May</span> 31.</div> + +<p>After regulating the mode of proceeding, I set off for the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> +highest part of the island, to see and consider of my route +for the night. To my surprise I could see no more of the +main than I did from below, it extending only from S 1/2 E, +four miles, to W by N, about three leagues, full of sand-hills. +Besides the isles to the E S E and south, that I had seen +before, I could only discover a small key N W by N. As +this was considerably farther from the main than where I +was at present, I resolved to get there by night, it being a +more secure resting-place; for I was here open to an attack, if +the Indians had canoes, as they undoubtedly observed my +landing. My mind being made up on this point, I returned, +taking a particular look at the spot I was on, which I +found only to produce a few bushes and coarse grass, and +the extent of the whole not two miles in circuit. On +the north side, in a sandy bay, I saw an old canoe, about 33 +feet long, lying bottom upwards, and half buried in the +beach. It was made of three pieces, the bottom entire, to +which the sides were sewed in the common way. It had +a sharp projecting prow rudely carved, in resemblance of +the head of a fish; the extreme breadth was about three +feet, and I imagine it was capable of carrying 20 men.</p> + +<p>At noon the parties were all returned, but had found +difficulty in gathering the oysters, from their close adherence +to the rocks, and the clams were scarce: I therefore +saw, that it would be of little use to remain longer in this +place, as we should not be able to collect more than we +could eat; nor could any tolerable sea-store be expected, +unless we fell in with a greater plenty. I named this Sunday +Island: it lies N by W 3/4 W from Restoration Island; the latitude, +by a good observation, 11° 58´ S.</p> + +<div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">June</span>. Monday 1.</div> + +<p>Monday, June the 1st. Fresh breezes and fair weather, +ending with a fresh gale. Wind S E by S.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 1.</div> + +<p>At two o'clock in the afternoon, we dined; each person +having a full pint and a half of stewed oysters and clams, +thickened with small beans, which Mr. Nelson informed us +were a species of Dolichos. Having eaten heartily, and taken +the water we were in want of, I only waited to determine +the time of high-water, which I found to be at three o'clock, +and the rise of the tide about five feet. According to this it +is high-water on the full and change at 19 minutes past 9 in +the morning; but here I observed the flood to come from the +southward, though at Restoration Island, I thought it came +from the northward. I think captain Cook mentions that +he found great irregularity in the set of the flood on this +coast.</p> + +<p>I now sailed for the key which I had seen in the N W by +N, giving the name of Sunday Island to the place I left; +we arrived just at dark, but found it so surrounded by a +reef of rocks, that I could not land without danger of staving +the boat; and on that account I came to a grapnel for the +night.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 1.</div> + +<p>At dawn of day we got on shore, and tracked the boat +into shelter; for the wind blowing fresh without, and the +ground being rocky, I was afraid to trust her at a grapnel, +lest she might be blown to sea: I was, therefore, obliged to +let her ground in the course of the ebb. From appearances, +I expected that if we remained till night we should +meet with turtle, as we had already discovered recent +tracks of them. Innumerable birds of the noddy kind +made this island their resting-place; so that I had reason +to flatter myself with hopes of getting supplies in +greater abundance than it had hitherto been in my +power. The situation was at least four leagues distant from +the main. We were on the north-westernmost of four<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> +small keys, which were surrounded by a reef of rocks +connected by sand-banks, except between the two northernmost; +and there likewise it was dry at low water; the +whole forming a lagoon island, into which the tide flowed: +at this entrance I kept the boat.</p> + +<p>As usual, I sent parties away in search of supplies, but, +to our great disappointment, we could only get a few +clams and some dolichos: with these, and the oysters we had +brought from Sunday Island, I made up a mess for dinner, +with an addition of a small quantity of bread.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 1.</div> + +<p>Towards noon, Mr. Nelson, and his party, who had +been to the easternmost key, returned; but himself in such +a weak condition, that he was obliged to be supported +by two men. His complaint was a violent heat in his +bowels, a loss of sight, much drought, and an inability to +walk. This I found was occasioned by his being unable +to support the heat of the sun, and that, when he was +fatigued and faint, instead of retiring into the shade to rest, +he had continued to do more than his strength was equal +to. It was a great satisfaction to me to find, that he had +no fever; and it was now that the little wine, which I had so +carefully saved became of real use. I gave it in very small +quantities, with some small pieces of bread soaked in it; +and, having pulled off his cloaths, and laid him under some +shady bushes, he began to recover. The boatswain and +carpenter also were ill, and complained of head-ach, and +sickness of the stomach; others, who had not had any +evacuation by stool, became shockingly distressed with +the tenesmus; so that there were but few without complaints. +An idea now prevailed, that their illness was occasioned +by eating the dolichos, and some were so much +alarmed that they thought themselves poisoned. Myself,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> +however, and some others, who had eaten of them, were +yet very well; but the truth was, that all those who were +complaining, except Mr. Nelson, had gorged themselves +with a large quantity of raw beans, and Mr. Nelson +informed me, that they were constantly teazing him, +whenever a berry was found, to know if it was good to +eat; so that it would not have been surprizing if many of +them had been really poisoned.</p> + +<p>Our dinner was not so well relished as at Sunday Island, +because we had mixed the dolichos with our stew. The +oysters and soup, however, were eaten by every one, except +Mr. Nelson, whom I fed with a few small pieces of bread +soaked in half a glass of wine, and he continued to mend.</p> + +<p>In my walk round the island, I found several cocoa-nut +shells, the remains of an old wigwam, and the backs of two +turtle, but no sign of any quadruped. One of my people +found three sea-fowl's eggs.</p> + +<p>As is common on such spots, the soil is little other than +sand, yet it produced small toa-trees, and some others, +that we were not acquainted with. There were fish in +the lagoon, but we could not catch any. As our wants, +therefore, were not likely to be supplied here, not even +with water for our daily expence, I determined to sail +in the morning, after trying our success in the night for +turtle and birds. A quiet night's rest also, I conceived, +would be of essential service to those who were unwell.</p> + +<p>From the wigwam and turtle-shell being found, it is +certain that the natives sometimes resort to this place, and +have canoes: but I did not apprehend that we ran any risk +by remaining here. I directed our fire, however, to be +made in the thicket, that we might not be discovered in the +night.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 1.</div> + +<p>At noon, I observed the latitude of this island to be +11° 47´ S. The main land extended towards the N W, and +was full of white sand-hills: another small island lay within +us, bearing W by N 1/4 N, three leagues distant. My situation +being very low, I could see nothing of the reef towards +the sea.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Tuesday 2.</div> + +<p>Tuesday, June the 2d. The first part of this day we +had some light showers of rain; the latter part was fair, +wind from the S E, blowing fresh.</p> + +<p>Rest was now so much wanted, that the afternoon was +advantageously spent in sleep. There were, however, a +few not disposed to it, and those I employed in dressing +some clams to take with us for the next day's dinner; +others we cut up in slices to dry, which I knew was the +most valuable supply we could find here. But, contrary +to our expectation, they were very scarce.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 2.</div> + +<p>Towards evening, I cautioned every one against making +too large a fire, or suffering it after dark to blaze up. Mr. +Samuel and Mr. Peckover had the superintendence of this +business, while I was strolling about the beach to observe if +I thought it could be seen from the main. I was just satisfied +that it could not, when on a sudden the island appeared +all in a blaze, that might have been seen at a much more +considerable distance. I ran to learn the cause, and found +it was occasioned by the imprudence and obstinacy of one +of the party, who, in my absence, had insisted on having +a fire to himself; in making which the flames caught +the neighbouring grass and rapidly spread. This misconduct +might have produced very serious consequences, +by discovering our situation to the natives; for, if they had +attacked us, we must inevitably have fallen a sacrifice, as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> +we had neither arms nor strength to oppose an enemy. +Thus the relief which I expected from a little sleep was +totally lost, and I anxiously waited for the flowing of the +tide, that we might proceed to sea.</p> + +<p>I found it high-water at half past five this evening, +whence I deduce the time, on the full and change of the +moon, to be 58' past 10 in the morning: the rise is nearly +five feet. I could not observe the set of the flood; but +imagine it comes from the southward, and that I have +been mistaken at Restoration Island, as I find the time of +high-water gradually later as we advance to the northward.</p> + +<pre> +At Restoration Island, high water, full and change, 7º 10' +Sunday Island, 9º 19' +Here, 10º 58' +</pre> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 2.</div> + +<p>After eight o'clock, Mr. Samuel and Mr. Peckover +went out to watch for turtle, and three men went to the +east key to endeavour to catch birds. All the others complaining +of being sick, took their rest, except Mr. Hayward +and Mr. Elphinston, who I directed to keep watch. +About midnight the bird party returned, with only twelve +noddies, a bird I have already described to be about the +size of a pigeon: but if it had not been for the folly and +obstinacy of one of the party, who separated from the +other two, and disturbed the birds, they might have +caught a great number. I was so much provoked at my +plans being thus defeated, that I gave the offender<a name="FNanchor6" id="FNanchor6"></a><a href="#Footnote6" class="fnanchor">[*]</a> a good +beating. I now went in search of the turtling party, who +had taken great pains, but without success. This, however, +did not surprise me, as it was not to be expected that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> +turtle would come near us after the noise which was made +at the beginning of the evening in extinguishing the fire. +I therefore desired them to come back, but they requested +to stay a little longer, as they still hoped to find some +before day-light: they, however, returned by three o'clock, +without any reward for their labour.</p> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote6" id="Footnote6"></a><a href="#FNanchor6"><span class="label">[*]</span></a> Robert Lamb.—This man, when he came to Java, acknowledged +he had eaten nine birds on the key, after he separated from the other +two.</p></div> + +<p>The birds we half dressed, which, with a few clams, made +the whole of the supply procured here. I tied up a few gilt +buttons and some pieces of iron to a tree, for any of the +natives that might come after us; and, happily finding my +invalids much better for their night's rest, I got every one +into the boat, and departed by dawn of day. Wind at S E; +course to the N by W.</p> + +<p>We had scarcely ran two leagues to the northward, when +the sea suddenly became rough, which not having experienced +since we were within the reefs, I concluded to +be occasioned by an open channel to the ocean. Soon afterwards +we met with a large shoal, on which were two +sandy keys; between these and two others, four miles +to the west, I passed on to the northward, the sea still +continuing to be rough.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 2.</div> + +<p>Towards noon, I fell in with six other keys, most of +which produced some small trees and brush-wood. These +formed a pleasing contrast with the main land we had +passed, which was full of sand-hills. The country continued +hilly, and the northernmost land, the same which we +saw from the lagoon island, appeared like downs, sloping +towards the sea. To the southward of this is a flat-topped +hill, which, on account of its shape, I called Pudding-pan +hill, and a little to the northward two other hills, which +we called the Paps; and here was a small tract of country<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> +without sand, the eastern part of which forms a cape, +whence the coast inclines to the N W by N.</p> + +<p>At noon I observed in the latitude of 11° 18´ S, the cape +bearing W, distant ten miles. Five small keys bore from +N E to S E, the nearest of them about two miles distant, +and a low sandy key between us and the cape bore W, distant +four miles. My course from the Lagoon Island N 1/2 W, +distant 30 miles.</p> + +<p>I am sorry it was not in my power to obtain a sufficient +knowledge of the depth of water; for in our situation +nothing could be undertaken that might have occasioned +delay. It may however be understood, that, to the best of +my judgment, from appearances, a ship may pass wherever +I have omitted to represent danger.</p> + +<p>I divided six birds, and issued one 25th of a pound of bread, +with half a pint of water, to each person for dinner, and I +gave half a glass of wine to Mr. Nelson, who was now so +far recovered as to require no other indulgence.</p> + +<p>The gunner, when he left the ship, brought his watch +with him, by which we had regulated our time till +to-day, when unfortunately it stopped; so that noon, +sun-rise, and sun-set, are the only parts of the 24 hours of +which I can speak with certainty, as to time.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Wednesday 3.</div> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 3.</div> + +<div class="sidenote">1789 <span class="smcap">June</span> 3.</div> + +<p>Wednesday, June the 3d. Fresh gales S S E and S E, and +fair weather. As we stood to the N by W this afternoon, +we found more sea, which I attributed to our receiving +less shelter from the reefs to the eastward: it is probable +they do not extend so far to the N as this; at least, it +may be concluded that there is not a continued barrier to +prevent shipping having access to the shore. I observed +that the stream set to the N W, which I considered to be +the flood; in some places along the coast, we saw patches of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> +wood. At five o'clock, steering to the N W, we passed a +large and fair inlet, into which, I imagine, is a safe and +commodious entrance; it lies in latitude 11° S: about three +leagues to the northward of this is an island, at which we +arrived about sun-set, and took shelter for the night under +a sandy point, which was the only part we could land +at: I was therefore under the necessity to put up with +rather a wild situation, and slept in the boat. Nevertheless +I sent a party away to see what could be got, but they +returned without any success. They saw a great number +of turtle bones and shells, where the natives had been +feasting, and their last visit seemed to be of late date. The +island was covered with wood, but in other respects a lump +of rocks. We lay at a grapnel until day-light, with a very +fresh gale and cloudy weather. The main bore from +S E by S to N N W 1/2 W, three leagues; and a mountainous +island, with a flat top, N by W, four or five leagues: several +others were between it and the main. The spot we were +on, which I call Turtle Island; lies in latitude, by account, +10° 52´ S, and 42 miles W from Restoration Island. +Abreast of it the coast has the appearance of a sandy desert, +but improves about three leagues farther to the northward, +where it terminates in a point, near to which is a +number of small islands. I sailed between these islands, +where I found no bottom at twelve fathoms; the high +mountainous island with a flat top, and four rocks to the +S E of it, that I call the Brothers, being on my starboard +hand. Soon after, an extensive opening appeared in the +main land, with a number of high islands in it. I called +this the Bay of Islands. We continued steering to the +N W. Several islands and keys lay to the northward. +The most northerly island was mountainous, having on it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> +a very high round hill; and a smaller was remarkable for +a single peaked hill.</p> + +<p>The coast to the northward and westward of the Bay of +Islands had a very different appearance from that to the +southward. It was high and woody, with many islands +close to it, and had a very broken appearance. Among +these islands are fine bays, and convenient places for shipping. +The northernmost I call Wednesday Island: to the +N W of this we fell in with a large reef, which I believe +joins a number of keys that were in sight from the N W +to the E N E. We now stood to the S W half a league, +when it was noon, and I had a good observation of the +latitude in 10° 31´ S. Wednesday Island bore E by S five +miles; the westernmost land S W two or three leagues; the +islands to the northward, from N W by W four or five +leagues, to N E six leagues; and the reef from W to N E, +distant one mile, I now assured every one that we should +be clear of New Holland in the afternoon.</p> + +<p>It is impossible for me to say how far this reef may +extend. It may be a continuation, or a detached part of +the range of shoals that surround the coast: but be that as +it may, I consider the mountainous islands as separate from +the shoals; and have no doubt that near them may be +found good passages for ships. But I rather recommend to +those who are to pass this strait from the eastward, to take +their direction from the coast of New Guinea: yet, I +likewise think that a ship coming from the southward, +will find a fair strait in the latitude of 10° S. I much +wished to have ascertained this point; but in our distressful +situation, any increase of fatigue, or loss of time, +might have been attended with the most fatal consequences. +I therefore determined to pass on without delay.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 3.</div> + +<p>As an addition to our dinner of bread and water, I served +to each person six oysters.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Thursday 4.</div> + +<p>Thursday, June the 4th. A fresh gale at S E, and fair +weather.</p> + +<p>At two o'clock as we were steering to the S W, towards +the westernmost part of the land in sight, we fell in with +some large sand-banks that run off from the coast. We +were therefore obliged to steer to the northward again, +and, having got round them, I directed my course to +the W.</p> + +<p>At four o'clock, the westernmost of the islands to the +northward bore N four leagues; Wednesday island E by N +five leagues; and Shoal Cape S E by E two leagues. A +small island was now seen bearing W, at which I arrived +before dark, and found that it was only a rock, where +boobies resort, for which reason I called it Booby Island. +A small key also lies close to the W part of the coast, which +I have called Shoal Cape. Here terminated the rocks and +shoals of the N part of New Holland, for, except Booby +Island, we could see no land to the westward of S, after +three o'clock this afternoon.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 4.</div> + +<p>I find that Booby Island was seen by Captain Cook, and, +by a remarkable coincidence of ideas, received from him +the same name; but I cannot with certainty reconcile the +situation of many parts of the coast that I have seen, to his +survey. I ascribe this to the very different form in which +land appears, when seen from the unequal heights of a ship +and a boat. The chart I have given, is by no means meant +to supersede that made by Captain Cook, who had better +opportunities than I had, and was in every respect properly +provided for surveying. The intention of mine is +chiefly to render the narrative more intelligible, and to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> +shew in what manner the coast appeared to me from an +open boat. I have little doubt that the opening, which I +named the Bay of Islands, is Endeavour Straits; and that +our track was to the northward of Prince of Wales's Isles. +Perhaps, by those who shall hereafter navigate these seas, +more advantage may be derived from the possession of +both our charts, than from either singly.</p> + +<p>At eight o'clock in the evening, we once more launched +into the open ocean. Miserable as our situation was in +every respect, I was secretly surprised to see that it did +not appear to affect any one so strongly as myself; on the +contrary, it seemed as if they had embarked on a voyage to +Timor, in a vessel sufficiently calculated for safety and convenience. +So much confidence gave me great pleasure, and +I may assert that to this cause their preservation is chiefly +to be attributed; for if any one of them had despaired, +he would most probably have died before we reached New +Holland.</p> + +<p>I now gave every one hopes that eight or ten days +might bring us to a land of safety; and, after praying to +God for a continuance of his most gracious protection, I +served an allowance of water for supper, and kept my +course to the W S W, to counteract the southerly winds, in +case they should blow strong.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 4.</div> + +<p>We had been just six days on the coast of New Holland, +in the course of which we found oysters, a few clams, some +birds, and water. But perhaps a benefit nearly equal to +this we received from not having fatigue in the boat, and +enjoying good rest at night. These advantages certainly +preserved our lives; for, small as the supply was, I +am very sensible how much it relieved our distresses.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> +About this time nature would have sunk under the extremes +of hunger and fatigue. Some would have ceased to +struggle for a life that only promised wretchedness and +misery; while others, though possessed of more bodily +strength, must soon have followed their unfortunate companions. +Even in our present situation, we were most +wretched spectacles; yet our fortitude and spirit remained; +every one being encouraged by the hopes of a speedy termination +to his misery.</p> + +<p>For my own part, wonderful as it may appear, I felt +neither extreme hunger nor thirst. My allowance contented +me, knowing I could have no more.</p> + +<p>I served one 25th of a pound of bread, and an allowance +of water, for breakfast, and the same for dinner, with an +addition of six oysters to each person. At noon, latitude +observed 10° 48´ S; course since yesterday noon S 81 W; +distance 111 miles; longitude, by account, from Shoal +Cape 1° 45´ W.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Friday 5.</div> + +<p>Friday, June the 5th. Fair weather with some showers, +and a strong trade wind at E S E.</p> + +<p>This day we saw a number of water-snakes, that were +ringed yellow and black, and towards noon we passed a +great deal of rock-weed. Though the weather was fair, +we were constantly shipping water, and two men always +employed to bale the boat.</p> + +<p>At noon I observed in latitude 10° 45´ S; our course since +yesterday W 1/4 N, 108 miles; longitude made 3° 35´ W. +Served one 25th of a pound of bread, and a quarter of a pint +of water for breakfast; the same for dinner, with an addition +of six oysters; for supper water only.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Saturday 6.</div> + +<p>Saturday, June the 6th. Fair weather, with some +showers, and a fresh gale at S E and E S E. Constantly +shipping water and baling.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 6.</div> + +<p>In the evening a few boobies came about us, one of +which I caught with my hand. The blood was divided +among three of the men who were weakest, but the bird I +ordered to be kept for our dinner the next day. Served +a quarter of a pint of water for supper, and to some, who +were most in need, half a pint.</p> + +<p>In the course of the night we suffered much cold and +shiverings. At day-light, I found that some of the clams, +which had been hung up to dry for sea-store, were stolen; +but every one most solemnly denied having any knowledge +of it. This forenoon we saw a gannet, a sand-lark, and +some water-snakes, which in general were from two to +three feet long.</p> + +<p>Served the usual allowance of bread and water for breakfast, +and the same for dinner, with the bird, which I distributed +in the usual way, of Who shall have this? I determined +to make Timor about the latitude of 9° 30´ S, or +10° S. At noon I observed the latitude to be 10° 19´ S; +course N 77° W; distance 117 miles; longitude made from +the Shoal Cape, the north part of New Holland, 5° 31´ W.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Sunday 7.</div> + +<p>Sunday, June the 7th. Fresh gales and fair weather till +eight in the evening. The remaining part of the 24 hours +squally, with much wind at S S E and E S E, and a high +sea, so that we were constantly wet and baling.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon, I took an opportunity of examining +again into our store of bread, and found remaining 19 days +allowance, at my former rate of serving one 25th of a pound +three times a day: therefore, as I saw every prospect of a +quick passage, I again ventured to grant an allowance for +supper, agreeable to my promise at the time it was discontinued.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 7.</div> + +<p>We passed the night miserably wet and cold, and in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> +morning I heard heavy complaints of our deplorable situation. +The sea was high and breaking over us. I could +only afford the allowance of bread and water for breakfast; +but for dinner I gave out an ounce of dried clams to each +person, which was all that remained.</p> + +<p>At noon I altered the course to the W N W, to keep more +from the sea while it blew so strong. Latitude observed +9° 31´ S; course N 57° W; distance 88 miles; longitude made +6° 46´ W.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Monday 8.</div> + +<p>Monday, June the 8th. Fresh gales and squally weather, +with some showers of rain. Wind E and E S E.</p> + +<p>This day the sea ran very high, and we were continually +wet, suffering much cold in the night. I now +remarked that Mr. Ledward, the surgeon, and Lawrence +Lebogue, an old hardy seaman, were giving way very fast. +I could only assist them by a tea-spoonful or two of wine, +which I had carefully saved, expecting such a melancholy +necessity. Among most of the others I observed more than +a common inclination to sleep, which seemed to indicate +that nature was almost exhausted.</p> + +<p>Served the usual allowance of bread and water at supper, +breakfast, and dinner. Saw several gannets.</p> + +<p>At noon I observed in 8° 45´ S; course W N W 1/4 W, +106 miles; longitude made 8° 23´ W.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Tuesday 9.</div> + +<p>Tuesday, June the 9th. Wind S E. The weather being +moderate, I steered W by S.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789 <span class="smcap">June</span> 9.</div> + +<p>At four in the afternoon we caught a small dolphin, the first +relief of the kind we obtained. I issued about two ounces +to each person, including the offals, and saved the remainder +for dinner the next day. Towards evening the wind +freshened, and it blew strong all night, so that we shipped +much water, and suffered greatly from the wet and cold.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> +At day-light, as usual, I heard much complaining, which +my own feelings convinced me was too well founded. I +gave the surgeon and Lebogue a little wine, but I could +give no farther relief, than assurances that a very few days +longer, at our present fine rate of sailing, would bring us +to Timor.</p> + +<p>Gannets, boobies, men of war and tropic birds, were +constantly about us. Served the usual allowance of bread and +water, and at noon dined on the remains of the dolphin, +which amounted to about an ounce per man. I observed +the latitude to be 9° 9´ S; longitude made 10° 8´ W; course +since yesterday noon S 76° W; distance 107 miles.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Wednesday 10.</div> + +<p>Wednesday, June the 10th. Wind E S E. Fresh gales +and fair weather, but a continuance of much sea, which, by +breaking almost constantly over the boat, made us miserably +wet, and we had much cold to endure in the night.</p> + +<p>This afternoon I suffered great sickness from the oily +nature of part of the stomach of the fish, which had fallen +to my share at dinner. At sun-set I served an allowance of +bread and water for supper. In the morning, after a very +bad night, I could see an alteration for the worse in more +than half my people. The usual allowance was served for +breakfast and dinner. At noon I found our situation to be +in latitude 9° 16´ S; longitude from the north part of New +Holland 12° 1´ W; course since yesterday noon W 1/2 S, +distance 111 miles.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Thursday 11.</div> + +<p>Thursday, June the 11th. Fresh gales and fair weather. +Wind S E and S S E.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 11.</div> + +<p>Birds and rock-weed showed that we were not far from +land; but I expected such signs must be here, as there are +many islands between the east part of Timor and New +Guinea. I however hoped to fall in with Timor every<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> +hour, for I had great apprehensions that some of my people +could not hold out. An extreme weakness, swelled +legs, hollow and ghastly countenances, great propensity to +sleep, with an apparent debility of understanding, seemed +to me melancholy presages of their approaching dissolution. +The surgeon and Lebogue, in particular were most miserable +objects. I occasionally gave them a few tea-spoonfuls +of wine, out of the little I had saved for this dreadful +stage, which no doubt greatly helped to support them.</p> + +<p>For my own part, a great share of spirits, with the hopes +of being able to accomplish the voyage, seemed to be my +principal support; but the boatswain very innocently told +me, that he really thought I looked worse than any one in +the boat. The simplicity with which he uttered such an +opinion diverted me, and I had good humour enough to +return him a better compliment.</p> + +<p>Every one received his 25th of a pound of bread, and +quarter of a pint of water, at evening, morning, and noon, +and an extra allowance of water was given to those who +desired it.</p> + +<p>At noon I observed in latitude 9° 41´ S; course S 77° W; +distance 109 miles; longitude made 13° 49´ W. I had little +doubt of having now passed the meridian of the eastern +part of Timor, which is laid down in 128° E. This diffused +universal joy and satisfaction.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Friday 12.</div> + +<p>Friday, June the 12th. Fresh breezes and fine weather, +but very hazy. Wind from E to S E.</p> + +<p>All the afternoon we had several gannets, and many +other birds, about us, that indicated we were near land, and +at sun-set we kept a very anxious look-out. In the evening +we caught a booby, which I reserved for our dinner the +next day.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 12.</div> + +<p>At three in the morning, with an excess of joy, we discovered +Timor bearing from W S W to W N W, and I +hauled on a wind to the N N E till day-light, when the +land bore from S W by S about two leagues to N E by N +seven leagues.</p> + +<p>It is not possible for me to describe the pleasure which the +blessing of the sight of land diffused among us. It appeared +scarce credible, that in an open boat, and so poorly +provided, we should have been able to reach the coast +of Timor in forty-one days after leaving Tofoa, having +in that time run, by our log, a distance of 3618 miles, and +that, notwithstanding our extreme distress, no one should +have perished in the voyage.</p> + +<p>I have already mentioned, that I knew not where the +Dutch settlement was situated; but I had a faint idea +that it was at the S W part of the island. I therefore, +after day-light, bore away along shore to the S S W, and +the more readily as the wind would not suffer us to go +towards the N E without great loss of time.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 12.</div> + +<p>The day gave us a most agreeable prospect of the land, +which was interspersed with woods and lawns; the interior +part mountainous, but the shore low. Towards noon the +coast became higher, with some remarkable head-lands. We +were greatly delighted with the general look of the +country, which exhibited many cultivated spots and beautiful +situations; but we could only see a few small huts, +whence I concluded no European resided in this part of the +island. Much sea ran on the shore, so that landing with a +boat was impracticable. At noon I was abreast of a very +high head-land; the extremes of the land bore S W 1/2 +W, and N N E 1/2 E; our distance off shore being three +miles; latitude, by observation, 9° 59´ S; and my longi<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span>tude, +by dead reckoning, from the north part of New +Holland, 15° 6´ W.</p> + +<p>With the usual allowance of bread and water for dinner, +I divided the bird we had caught the night before, and +to the surgeon and Lebogue I gave a little wine.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Saturday 13.</div> + +<p>Saturday, June the 13th. Fresh gales at E, and E S E, +with very hazy weather.</p> + +<p>During the afternoon, we continued our course along a +low woody shore, with innumerable palm-trees, called the +Fan Palm from the leaf spreading like a fan; but we had +now lost all signs of cultivation, and the country had +not so fine an appearance as it had to the eastward. This, +however, was only a small tract, for by sun-set it improved +again, and I saw several great smokes where the +inhabitants were clearing and cultivating their grounds. +We had now ran 25 miles to the W S W since noon, +and were W five miles from a low point, which in +the afternoon I imagined had been the southernmost +land, and here the coast formed a deep bend, with low land +in the bight that appeared like islands. The west shore +was high; but from this part of the coast to the high cape +which we were abreast of yesterday noon, the shore is low, +and I believe shoal. I particularly remark this situation, +because here the very high ridge of mountains, that run +from the east end of the island, terminate, and the appearance +of the country suddenly changes for the worse, +as if it was not the same island in any respect.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 13.</div> + +<p>That we might not run past any settlement in the +night, I determined to preserve my station till the morning, +and therefore hove to under a close-reefed fore-sail, +with which the boat lay very quiet. We were here in +shoal water; our distance from the shore being half a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> +league, the westernmost land in sight bearing W S W 1/2 W. +Served bread and water for supper, and the boat lying too +very well, all but the officer of the watch endeavoured +to get a little sleep.</p> + +<p>At two in the morning, we wore, and stood in shore till +day-light, when I found we had drifted, during the night, +about three leagues to the W S W, the southernmost land +in sight bearing W. On examining the coast, and not seeing +any sign of a settlement, we bore away to the westward, +having a strong gale, against a weather current, +which occasioned much sea. The shore was high and covered +with wood, but we did not run far before low +land again formed the coast, the points of which +opening at west, I once more fancied we were on the +south part of the island; but at ten o'clock we found the +coast again inclining towards the south, part of it bearing +W S W 1/2 W. At the same time high land appeared from +S W to S W by W 1/2 W; but the weather was so hazy, that +it was doubtful whether the two lands were separated, the +opening only extending one point of the compass. I, +for this reason, stood towards the outer land, and found +it to be the island Roti.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 13.</div> + +<p>I returned to the shore I had left, and in a sandy bay I +brought to a grapnel, that I might more conveniently +calculate my situation. In this place we saw several +smokes, where the natives were clearing their grounds. +During the little time we remained here, the master and +carpenter very much importuned me to let them go in +search of supplies; to which, at length, I assented; but, +finding no one willing to be of their party, they did not +choose to quit the boat. I stopped here no longer than +for the purpose just mentioned, and we continued steering<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> +along shore. We had a view of a beautiful-looking +country, as if formed by art into lawns and parks. The +coast is low, and covered with woods, in which are innumerable +fan palm-trees, that look like cocoa-nut walks. +The interior part is high land, but very different from +the more eastern parts of the island, where it is exceedingly +mountainous, and to appearance the soil better.</p> + +<p>At noon, the island Roti bore S W by W seven leagues. +I had no observation for the latitude, but, by account, we +were in 10° 12´ S; our course since yesterday noon being S +77 W, 54 miles. The usual allowance of bread and water +was served for breakfast and dinner, and to the surgeon and +Lebogue, I gave a little wine.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Sunday 14.</div> + +<p>Sunday, June the 14th. A strong gale at E S E, with +hazy weather, all the afternoon; after which the wind +became moderate.</p> + +<p>At two o'clock this afternoon, having run through a +very dangerous breaking sea, the cause of which I attributed +to a strong tide setting to windward, and shoal water, +we discovered a spacious bay or sound, with a fair entrance +about two or three miles wide. I now conceived +hopes that our voyage was nearly at an end, as no +place could appear more eligible for shipping, or more +likely to be chosen for an European settlement: I therefore +came to a grapnel near the east side of the entrance, in a +small sandy bay, where we saw a hut, a dog, and some +cattle; and I immediately sent the boatswain and gunner +away to the hut, to discover the inhabitants.</p> + +<p>The S W point of the entrance bore W 1/2 S three miles; +the S E point S by W three quarters of a mile; and the island +Roti from S by W 1/4 W to S W 1/4 W, about five leagues.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 14.</div> + +<p>While we lay here I found the ebb came from the +northward, and before our departure the falling of the tide +discovered to us a reef of rocks, about two cables length +from the shore; the whole being covered at high-water, +renders it dangerous. On the opposite shore also +appeared very high breakers; but there is nevertheless +plenty of room, and certainly a safe channel for a first-rate +man of war.</p> + +<p>The bay or sound within, seemed to be of a considerable +extent; the northern part, which I had now in view, being +about five leagues distant. Here the land made in moderate +risings joined by lower grounds. But the island +Roti, which lies to the southward, is the best mark to +know this place.</p> + +<p>I had just time to make these remarks, when I saw the +boatswain and gunner returning with some of the natives. +I therefore no longer doubted of our success, and that our +most sanguine expectations would be fully gratified. +They brought five Indians, and informed me that they had +found two families, where the women treated them with +European politeness. From these people I learned, that the +governor resided at a place called Coupang, which was +some distance to the N E. I made signs for one of them to go +in the boat, and show me Coupang, intimating that I would +pay him for his trouble; the man readily complied, and +came into the boat.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 14.</div> + +<p>These people were of a dark tawny colour, and had long +black hair; they chewed a great deal of beetle, and wore a +square piece of cloth round their hips, in the folds of +which was stuck a large knife. They had a handkerchief +wrapped round their heads, and at their shoulders hung<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> +another tied by the four corners, which served as a bag +for their beetle equipage.</p> + +<p>They brought us a few pieces of dried turtle, and some +ears of Indian corn. This last was most welcome to us; +for the turtle was so hard, that it could not be eaten +without being first soaked in hot water. Had I staid +they would have brought us something more; but, as the +pilot was willing, I was determined to push on. It was +about half an hour past four when we sailed.</p> + +<p>By direction of the pilot we kept close to the east shore +under all our sail; but as night came on, the wind died +away, and we were obliged to try at the oars, which I was +surprised to see we could use with some effect. However, +at ten o'clock, as I found we got but little ahead, +I came to a grapnel, and for the first time I issued double +allowance of bread and a little wine to each person.</p> + +<p>At one o'clock in the morning, after the most happy +and sweet sleep that ever men had, we weighed, and continued +to keep the east shore on board, in very smooth water; +when at last I found we were again open to the sea, the +whole of the land to the westward, that we had passed, being +an island, which the pilot called Pulo Samow. The northern +entrance of this channel is about a mile and a half +or two miles wide, and I had no ground at ten fathoms.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 14.</div> + +<p>Hearing the report of two cannon that were fired, gave +new life to every one; and soon after we discovered two +square-rigged vessels and a cutter at anchor to the eastward. +I endeavoured to work to windward, but we were +obliged to take to our oars again, having lost ground +on each tack. We kept close to the shore, and continued +rowing till four o'clock, when I brought to a grapnel, +and gave another allowance of bread and wine to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> +all hands. As soon as we had rested a little, we weighed +again, and rowed till near day-light, when I came to a grapnel, +off a small fort and town, which the pilot told me was +Coupang.</p> + +<p>Among the things which the boatswain had thrown +into the boat before we left the ship, was a bundle of +signal flags that had been made for the boats to show the +depth of water in sounding; with these I had, in the course +of the passage, made a small jack, which I now hoisted in +the main shrouds, as a signal of distress; for I did not +choose to land without leave.</p> + +<p>Soon after day-break a soldier hailed me to land, which I +instantly did, among a croud of Indians, and was agreeably +surprised to meet with an English sailor, who belonged to +one of the vessels in the road. His captain, he told me, +was the second person in the town; I therefore desired to +be conducted to him, as I was informed the governor was +ill, and could not then be spoken with.</p> + +<p>Captain Spikerman received me with great humanity. +I informed him of our miserable situation; and requested +that care might be taken of those who were with me, +without delay. On which he gave directions for their +immediate reception at his own house, and went himself to +the governor, to know at what time I could be permitted +to see him; which was fixed to be at eleven o'clock.</p> + +<p>I now desired every one to come on shore, which was as +much as some of them could do, being scarce able to walk: +they, however, got at last to the house, and found tea with +bread and butter provided for their breakfast.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 14.</div> + +<p>The abilities of a painter, perhaps, could never have +been displayed to more advantage than in the delineation +of the two groups of figures, which at this time presented<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> +themselves. An indifferent spectator would have been at +a loss which most to admire; the eyes of famine sparkling at +immediate relief, or the horror of their preservers at the +sight of so many spectres, whose ghastly countenances, if +the cause had been unknown, would rather have excited +terror than pity. Our bodies were nothing but skin and bones, +our limbs were full of sores, and we were cloathed in rags; +in this condition, with the tears of joy and gratitude flowing +down our cheeks, the people of Timor beheld us with +a mixture of horror, surprise, and pity.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 14.</div> + +<p>The governor, Mr. William Adrian Van Este, notwithstanding +his extreme ill-health, became so anxious about us, +that I saw him before the appointed time. He received me +with great affection, and gave me the fullest proofs that he +was possessed of every feeling of a humane and good man. +Sorry as he was, he said, that such a calamity could ever +have happened to us, yet he considered it as the greatest +blessing of his life that we had fallen under his protection; +and, though his infirmity was so great that he could not do +the office of a friend himself, he would give such orders as +I might be certain would procure me every supply I +wanted. In the mean time a house was hired for me, and, +till matters could be properly regulated, victuals for every +one were ordered to be dressed at his own house. With +respect to my people, he said I might have room for them +either at the hospital or on board of captain Spikerman's ship, +which lay in the road; and he expressed much uneasiness +that Coupang could not afford them better accommodations, +the house assigned to me being the only one uninhabited, +and the situation of the few families such, that they +could not accommodate any one. After this conversation +an elegant repast was set before me, more according to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> +custom of the country, than with design to alleviate my +hunger: so that in this instance he happily blended, with +common politeness, the greatest favour I could receive.</p> + +<p>On returning to my people, I found every kind relief +had been given to them. The surgeon had dressed their +sores, and the cleaning of their persons had not been less +attended to, besides several friendly gifts of apparel.</p> + +<p>I now desired to be shewn to the house that was intended +for me, and I found it ready, with servants to attend, and +a particular one, which the governor had directed to be +always about my person. The house consisted of a hall, +with a room at each end, and a loft over-head; and was +surrounded by a piazza, with an outer apartment in one +corner, and a communication from the back part of the +house to the street. I therefore determined, instead of +separating from my people, to lodge them all with me; and +I divided the house as follows: One room I took to myself, +the other I allotted to the master, surgeon, Mr. Nelson, and +the gunner; the loft to the other officers; and the outer +apartment to the men. The hall was common to the +officers, and the men had the back piazza. Of this I informed +the governor, and he sent down chairs, tables, and +benches, with bedding and other necessaries for the use +of every one.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 14.</div> + +<p>The governor, when I took my leave, had desired me to +acquaint him with every thing of which I stood in need; +but I was now informed it was only at particular times +that he had a few moments of ease, or could attend to any +thing; being in a dying state, with an incurable disease. +On this account, whatever business I had to transact would +be with Mr. Timotheus Wanjon, the second of this place, +and the governor's son-in-law; who now also was contribut<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span>ing +every thing in his power to make our situation comfortable. +I had been, therefore, misinformed by the seaman, +who told me that captain Spikerman was the next person +to the governor.</p> + +<p>At noon a very handsome dinner was brought to the +house, which was sufficient to make persons, more accustomed +to plenty, eat too much. Cautions, therefore, +might be supposed to have had little effect; but I believe few +people in such a situation would have observed more moderation. +My greatest apprehension was, that they would +eat too much fruit.</p> + +<p>Having seen every one enjoy this meal of plenty, I dined +with Mr. Wanjon; but I found no extraordinary inclination +to eat or drink. Rest and quiet, I considered, as more +necessary to my doing well, and therefore retired to my +room, which I found furnished with every convenience. +But, instead of rest, my mind was disposed to reflect on our +late sufferings, and on the failure of the expedition; but, +above all, on the thanks due to Almighty God, who had +given us power to support and bear such heavy calamities, +and had enabled me at last to be the means of saving +eighteen lives.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 14.</div> + +<p>In times of difficulty there will generally arise circumstances +that bear more particularly hard on a commander. +In our late situation, it was not the least of my distresses, to +be constantly assailed with the melancholy demands of my +people for an increase of allowance, which it grieved me +to refuse. The necessity of observing the most rigid +œconomy in the distribution of our provisions was so evident, +that I resisted their solicitations, and never deviated +from the agreement we made at setting out. The consequence +of this care was, that at our arrival we had still re<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span>maining +sufficient for eleven days, at our scanty allowance: +and if we had been so unfortunate as to have missed the +Dutch settlement at Timor, we could have proceeded to +Java, where I was certain every supply we wanted could be +procured.</p> + +<p>Another disagreeable circumstance, to which my situation +exposed me, was the caprice of ignorant people. Had +I been incapable of acting, they would have carried the boat +on shore as soon as we made the island of Timor, without +considering that landing among the natives, at a distance +from the European settlement, might have been as dangerous +as among any other Indians.</p> + +<p>The quantity of provisions with which we left the ship, +was not more than we should have consumed in five days, +had there been no necessity for husbanding our stock. +The mutineers must naturally have concluded that we +could have no other place of refuge than the Friendly +Islands; for it was not likely they should imagine, that, so +poorly equipped as we were in every respect, there could +have been a possibility of our attempting to return homewards: +much less will they suspect that the account of their +villany has already reached their native country.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">June</span> 14.</div> + +<p>When I reflect how providentially our lives were saved +at Tofoa, by the Indians delaying their attack, and that, +with scarce any thing to support life, we crossed a sea of +more than 1200 leagues, without shelter from the inclemency +of the weather; when I reflect that in an open boat, +with so much stormy weather, we escaped foundering, that +not any of us were taken off by disease, that we had the +great good fortune to pass the unfriendly natives of other +countries without accident, and at last happily to meet with +the most friendly and best of people to relieve our dis<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span>tresses; +I say, when I reflect on all these wonderful escapes, +the remembrance of such great mercies enables me to bear, +with resignation and chearfulness, the failure of an expedition, +the success of which I had so much at heart, and +which was frustrated at a time when I was congratulating +myself on the fairest prospect of being able to complete it +in a manner that would fully have answered the intention +of his Majesty, and the honourable promoters of so benevolent +a plan.</p> + +<p>With respect to the preservation of our health, during a +course of 16 days of heavy and almost continual rain, I would +recommend to every one in a similar situation the method +we practised, which is to dip their cloaths in the salt-water, +and wring them out, as often as they become filled with rain; +it was the only resource we had, and I believe was of the +greatest service to us, for it felt more like a change of dry +cloaths than could well be imagined. We had occasion to do +this so often, that at length all our cloaths were wrung to +pieces: for, except the few days we passed on the coast of +New Holland, we were continually wet either with rain or +sea.</p> + +<p>Thus, through the assistance of Divine Providence, we +surmounted the difficulties and distresses of a most perilous +voyage, and arrived safe in an hospitable port, where +every necessary and comfort were administered to us with +a most liberal hand.</p> + + +<div class="sidenote">Timor.</div> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">July</span>.</div> + +<p>As, from the great humanity and attention of the governor, +and the gentlemen, at Coupang, we received every +kind of assistance, we were not long without evident signs +of returning health: therefore, to secure my arrival at +Batavia, before the October fleet sailed for Europe, on +the first of July, I purchased a small schooner; 34 feet long,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> +for which I gave 1000 rix-dollars, and fitted her for sea, +under the name of His Majesty's schooner Resource.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">July. 20.</div> + +<p>On the 20th of July, I had the misfortune to lose Mr. +David Nelson: he died of an inflammatory fever. The loss +of this honest man I very much lamented: he had accomplished, +with great care and diligence, the object for which +he was sent, and was always ready to forward every plan I +proposed, for the good of the service we were on. He was +equally useful in our voyage hither, in the course of +which he gave me great satisfaction, by the patience and +fortitude with which he conducted himself.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">July. 21.</div> + +<p>July 21st. This day I was employed attending the funeral +of Mr. Nelson. The corpse was carried by twelve +soldiers drest in black, preceded by the minister; next followed +myself and second governor; then ten gentlemen of +the town and the officers of the ships in the harbour; and +after them my own officers and people.</p> + +<p>After reading our burial-service, the body was interred +behind the chapel, in the burying-ground appropriated to +the Europeans of the town. I was sorry I could get no +tombstone to place over his remains.</p> + +<p>This was the second voyage Mr. Nelson had undertaken +to the South Seas, having been sent out by Sir Joseph +Banks; to collect plants, seeds, &c. in Captain Cook's last +voyage. And now, after surmounting so many difficulties, +and in the midst of thankfulness for his deliverance, he was +called upon to pay the debt of nature, at a time least +expected.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">August 20.</div> + +<p>August the 20th. After taking an affectionate leave of +the hospitable and friendly inhabitants, I embarked, and +we sailed from Coupang, exchanging salutes with the fort +and shipping as we ran out of the harbour.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">August</span>.</div> + +<p>I left the governor, Mr. Van Este, at the point of death. +To this gentleman our most grateful thanks are due, for +the humane and friendly treatment that we have received +from him. His ill state of health only prevented him from +showing us more particular marks of attention. Unhappily, +it is to his memory only that I now pay this tribute. +It was a fortunate circumstance for us, that Mr. Wanjon, +the next in place to the governor, was equally humane and +ready to relieve us. His attention was unremitting, and, +when there was a doubt about supplying me with money, +on government account, to enable me to purchase a vessel, +he chearfully took it upon himself; without which, it was +evident, I should have been too late at Batavia to have sailed +for Europe with the October fleet. I can only return such +services by ever retaining a grateful remembrance of +them.</p> + +<p>Mr. Max, the town surgeon, likewise behaved to us with +the most disinterested humanity: he attended every one +with the utmost care; for which I could not prevail on him +to receive any payment, or to render me any account, or +other answer, than that it was his duty.</p> + +<p>Coupang is situated in 10° 12´ S latitude, and 124° 41´ E +longitude.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">August 29.</div> + +<p>On the 29th of August, I passed by the west end of the +Island Flores, through a dangerous strait full of islands and +rocks; and, having got into the latitude of 8° S, I steered to +the west, passing the islands Sumbawa, Lombock, and Bali, +towards Java, which I saw on the 6th of September. I continued +my course to the west, through the Straits of Madura.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">September 10.</div> + +<div class="sidenote">Passourwang</div> + +<p>On the 10th of September, I anchored off Passourwang, +in latitude 7° 36´ S, and 1° 44´ W of Cape Sandana, the N E +end or Java.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">September</span></div> + +<p>On the 11th I sailed, and on the 13th arrived at Sourabya, +latitude 7° 11´ S, 1° 52´ west.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Sourabya. Crissey.</div> + +<p>On the 17th of September, sailed from Sourabya, and the +same day anchored at Crissey, for about two hours, and +from thence I proceeded to Samarang. Latitude of Crissey +7° 9´ S, 1° 55´ west.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Samarang.</div> + +<div class="sidenote">Batavia.</div> + +<p>On the 22nd of September, anchored at Samarang; latitude +6° 54´ S; 4° 7´ W. And on the 26th I sailed for Batavia, where +I arrived on the 1st of October. Latitude 6° 10´ S; 8° 12´ W +from the east end of Java.</p> + +<p>On the day after my arrival, having gone through some +fatigue in adjusting matters to get my people out of the +schooner, as she lay in the river, and in an unhealthy +situation, I was seized with a violent fever.</p> + +<p>On the 7th, I was carried into the country, to the +physician-general's house, where, the governor-general +informed me, I should be accommodated with every +attendance and convenience; and to this only can I attribute +my recovery. It was, however, necessary for me to +quit Batavia without delay; and the governor, on that account, +gave me leave, with two others, to go in a packet +that was to sail before the fleet; and assured me, that those +who remained should be sent after me by the fleet, which +was to sail before the end of the month: that if I remained, +which would be highly hazardous, he could not send +us all in one ship. My sailing, therefore, was eligible, +even if it had not been necessary for my health; and for +that reason I embarked in the Vlydt packet, which sailed +on the 16th of October.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Cape of Good Hope.</div> + +<div class="sidenote">1789. <span class="smcap">December</span>.</div> + +<p>On the 16th of December, I arrived at the Cape of Good +Hope where I first observed that my usual health was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> +returning; but for a long time I continued very weak and +infirm.</p> + +<p>I received the greatest attention and politeness from the +governor-general, and all the residents on the coast of Java; +and particular marks of friendship and regard from the +governor, M. Van de Graaf, at the Cape of Good Hope.</p> + +<p>On the 2d of January, 1790, we sailed for Europe, and on +the 14th of March, I was landed at Portsmouth by an Isle of +Wight boat.</p> + + +<p>FINIS.</p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Narrative Of The Mutiny, On Board +His Majesty's Ship Bounty; And The Subsequent Voyage Of Part Of The Crew, In The Ship's Boat, by William Bligh + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MUTINY OF THE BOUNTY *** + +***** This file should be named 20337-h.htm or 20337-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/0/3/3/20337/ + +Produced by Chuck Greif, V. L. Simpson and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Narrative Of The Mutiny, On Board His Majesty's Ship Bounty; And The Subsequent Voyage Of Part Of The Crew, In The Ship's Boat + +Author: William Bligh + +Release Date: January 11, 2007 [EBook #20337] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MUTINY OF THE BOUNTY *** + + + + +Produced by Chuck Greif, V. L. Simpson and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Posner Memorial Collection +(http://posnet.library.cmu.edu/Posner/)). + + + + + + + + A NARRATIVE OF THE MUTINY, + ON BOARD HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP _BOUNTY_; + AND THE SUBSEQUENT VOYAGE OF PART OF THE CREW, + IN THE SHIP's BOAT, + + From TOFOA, one of the Friendly Islands, + To TIMOR, a Dutch Settlement in the East Indies. + + Written by LIEUTENANT WILLIAM BLIGH. + + ILLUSTRATED WITH CHARTS. + + + LONDON: + PRINTED FOR GEORGE NICOL, BOOKSELLER TO HIS MAJESTY, PALL-MALL. + MDCCXC. + + + + + ADVERTISEMENT. + + +The following Narrative is only a part of a voyage undertaken for the +purpose of conveying the Bread-fruit Tree from the South Sea Islands to +the West Indies. The manner in which this expedition miscarried, with +the subsequent transactions and events, are here related. This part of +the voyage is not first in the order of time, yet the circumstances are +so distinct from that by which it was preceded, that it appears +unnecessary to delay giving as much early information as possible +concerning so extraordinary an event. The rest will be laid before the +Public as soon as it can be got ready; and it is intended to publish it +in such a manner, as, with the present Narrative, will make the account +of the voyage compleat. + +At present, for the better understanding the following pages, it is +sufficient to inform the reader, that in August, 1787, I was appointed +to command the Bounty, a ship of 215 tons burthen, carrying 4 +six-pounders, 4 swivels, and 46 men, including myself and every person +on board. We sailed from England in December, 1787, and arrived at +Otaheite the 26th of October, 1788. On the 4th of April, 1789, we left +Otaheite, with every favourable appearance of completing the object of +the voyage, in a manner equal to my most sanguine expectations. At this +period the ensuing Narrative commences. + + + + + A + + NARRATIVE, &c. + + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +I sailed from Otaheite on the 4th of April 1789, having on board 1015 +fine bread-fruit plants, besides many other valuable fruits of that +country, which, with unremitting attention, we had been collecting for +three and twenty weeks, and which were now in the highest state of +perfection. + +On the 11th of April, I discovered an island in latitude 18 deg. 52' S. and +longitude 200 deg. 19' E. by the natives called Whytootackee. On the 24th we +anchored at Annamooka, one of the Friendly Islands; from which, after +completing our wood and water, I sailed on the 27th, having every reason +to expect, from the fine condition of the plants, that they would +continue healthy. + +On the evening of the 28th, owing to light winds, we were not clear of +the islands, and at night I directed my course towards Tofoa. The master +had the first watch; the gunner the middle watch; and Mr. Christian, one +of the mates, the morning watch. This was the turn of duty for the +night. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +Just before sun-rising, Mr. Christian, with the master at arms, gunner's +mate, and Thomas Burket, seaman, came into my cabin while I was asleep, +and seizing me, tied my hands with a cord behind my back, and threatened +me with instant death, if I spoke or made the least noise: I, however, +called so loud as to alarm every one; but they had already secured the +officers who were not of their party, by placing centinels at their +doors. There were three men at my cabin door, besides the four within; +Christian had only a cutlass in his hand, the others had muskets and +bayonets. I was hauled out of bed, and forced on deck in my shirt, +suffering great pain from the tightness with which they had tied my +hands. I demanded the reason of such violence, but received no other +answer than threats of instant death, if I did not hold my tongue. Mr. +Elphinston, the master's mate, was kept in his birth; Mr. Nelson, +botanist, Mr. Peckover, gunner, Mr. Ledward, surgeon, and the master, +were confined to their cabins; and also the clerk, Mr. Samuel, but he +soon obtained leave to come on deck. The fore hatchway was guarded by +centinels; the boatswain and carpenter were, however, allowed to come on +deck, where they saw me standing abaft the mizen-mast, with my hands +tied behind my back, under a guard, with Christian at their head. + +The boatswain was now ordered to hoist the launch out, with a threat, if +he did not do it instantly, to take care of himself. + +The boat being out, Mr. Hayward and Mr. Hallet, midshipmen, and Mr. +Samuel, were ordered into it; upon which I demanded the cause of such an +order, and endeavoured to persuade some one to a sense of duty; but it +was to no effect: "Hold your tongue, Sir, or you are dead this instant," +was constantly repeated to me. + +The master, by this time, had sent to be allowed to come on deck, which +was permitted; but he was soon ordered back again to his cabin. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +I continued my endeavours to turn the tide of affairs, when Christian +changed the cutlass he had in his hand for a bayonet, that was brought +to him, and, holding me with a strong gripe by the cord that tied my +hands, he with many oaths threatened to kill me immediately if I would +not be quiet: the villains round me had their pieces cocked and bayonets +fixed. Particular people were now called on to go into the boat, and +were hurried over the side: whence I concluded that with these people I +was to be set adrift. + +I therefore made another effort to bring about a change, but with no +other effect than to be threatened with having my brains blown out. + +The boatswain and seamen, who were to go in the boat, were allowed to +collect twine, canvas, lines, sails, cordage, an eight and twenty gallon +cask of water, and the carpenter to take his tool chest. Mr. Samuel got +150lbs of bread, with a small quantity of rum and wine. He also got a +quadrant and compass into the boat; but was forbidden, on pain of death, +to touch either map, ephemeris, book of astronomical observations, +sextant, time-keeper, or any of my surveys or drawings. + +The mutineers now hurried those they meant to get rid of into the boat. +When most of them were in, Christian directed a dram to be served to +each of his own crew. I now unhappily saw that nothing could be done to +effect the recovery of the ship: there was no one to assist me, and +every endeavour on my part was answered with threats of death. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +The officers were called, and forced over the side into the boat, while +I was kept apart from every one, abaft the mizen-mast; Christian, armed +with a bayonet, holding me by the bandage that secured my hands. The +guard round me had their pieces cocked, but, on my daring the ungrateful +wretches to fire, they uncocked them. + +Isaac Martin, one of the guard over me, I saw, had an inclination to +assist me, and, as he fed me with shaddock, (my lips being quite parched +with my endeavours to bring about a change) we explained our wishes to +each other by our looks; but this being observed, Martin was instantly +removed from me; his inclination then was to leave the ship, for which +purpose he got into the boat; but with many threats they obliged him to +return. + +The armourer, Joseph Coleman, and the two carpenters, M'Intosh and +Norman, were also kept contrary to their inclination; and they begged of +me, after I was astern in the boat, to remember that they declared they +had no hand in the transaction. Michael Byrne, I am told, likewise +wanted to leave the ship. + +It is of no moment for me to recount my endeavours to bring back the +offenders to a sense of their duty: all I could do was by speaking to +them in general; but my endeavours were of no avail, for I was kept +securely bound, and no one but the guard suffered to come near me. + +To Mr. Samuel I am indebted for securing my journals and commission, +with some material ship papers. Without these I had nothing to certify +what I had done, and my honour and character might have been suspected, +without my possessing a proper document to have defended them. All this +he did with great resolution, though guarded and strictly watched. He +attempted to save the time-keeper, and a box with all my surveys, +drawings, and remarks for fifteen years past, which were numerous; when +he was hurried away, with "Damn your eyes, you are well off to get what +you have." + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +It appeared to me, that Christian was some time in doubt whether he +should keep the carpenter, or his mates; at length he determined on the +latter, and the carpenter was ordered into the boat. He was permitted, +but not without some opposition, to take his tool chest. + +Much altercation took place among the mutinous crew during the whole +business: some swore "I'll be damned if he does not find his way home, +if he gets any thing with him," (meaning me); others, when the +carpenter's chest was carrying away, "Damn my eyes, he will have a +vessel built in a month." While others laughed at the helpless situation +of the boat, being very deep, and so little room for those who were in +her. As for Christian, he seemed meditating instant destruction on +himself and every one. + +I asked for arms, but they laughed at me, and said I was well acquainted +with the people where I was going, and therefore did not want them; four +cutlasses, however, were thrown into the boat, after we were veered +astern. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +When the officers and men, with whom I was suffered to have no +communication, were put into the boat, they only waited for me, and the +master at arms informed Christian of it; who then said--"Come, captain +Bligh, your officers and men are now in the boat, and you must go with +them; if you attempt to make the least resistance you will instantly be +put to death:" and, without any farther ceremony, holding me by the cord +that tied my hands, with a tribe of armed ruffians about me, I was +forced over the side, where they untied my hands. Being in the boat we +were veered astern by a rope. A few pieces of pork were then thrown to +us, and some cloaths, also the cutlasses I have already mentioned; and +it was now that the armourer and carpenters called out to me to +remember that they had no hand in the transaction. After having +undergone a great deal of ridicule, and been kept some time to make +sport for these unfeeling wretches, we were at length cast adrift in the +open ocean. + +I had with me in the boat the following persons: + + Names. Stations. + + JOHN FRYER Master. + THOMAS LEDWARD Acting Surgeon. + DAVID NELSON Botanist. + WILLIAM PECKOVER Gunner. + WILLIAM COLE Boatswain. + WILLIAM PURCELL Carpenter. + WILLIAM ELPHINSTON Master's Mate. + THOMAS HAYWARD } Midshipmen. + JOHN HALLETT } + JOHN NORTON } Quarter Masters. + PETER LINKLETTER } + LAWRENCE LEBOGUE Sailmaker. + JOHN SMITH } Cooks. + THOMAS HALL } + GEORGE SIMPSON Quarter Master's Mate. + ROBERT TINKLER A boy. + ROBERT LAMB Butcher. + MR. SAMUEL Clerk. + +There remained on board the Bounty, as pirates, + + FLETCHER CHRISTIAN Master's Mate. + PETER HAYWOOD } + EDWARD YOUNG } Midshipmen. + GEORGE STEWART } + CHARLES CHURCHILL Master at Arms. + JOHN MILLS Gunner's Mate. + JAMES MORRISON Boatswain's Mate. + THOMAS BURKITT Able Seaman. + MATTHEW QUINTAL Ditto. + JOHN SUMNER Ditto. + JOHN MILLWARD Ditto. + WILLIAM M'KOY Ditto. + HENRY HILLBRANT Ditto. + MICHAEL BYRNE Ditto. + WILLIAM MUSPRAT Ditto. + ALEXANDER SMITH Ditto. + JOHN WILLIAMS Ditto. + THOMAS ELLISON Ditto. + ISAAC MARTIN Ditto. + RICHARD SKINNER Ditto. + MATTHEW THOMPSON Ditto. + WILLIAM BROWN Gardiner. + JOSEPH COLEMAN Armourer. + CHARLES NORMAN Carpenter's Mate. + THOMAS M'INTOSH Carpenter's Crew. + +In all 25 hands, and the most able men of the ship's company. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +Having little or no wind, we rowed pretty fast towards Tofoa, which bore +N E about 10 leagues from us. While the ship was in sight she steered to +the W N W, but I considered this only as a feint; for when we were sent +away--"Huzza for Otaheite," was frequently heard among the mutineers. + +Christian, the captain of the gang, is of a respectable family in the +north of England. This was the third voyage he had made with me; and, as +I found it necessary to keep my ship's company at three watches, I gave +him an order to take charge of the third, his abilities being thoroughly +equal to the task; and by this means my master and gunner were not at +watch and watch. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +Haywood is also of a respectable family in the north of England, and a +young man of abilities, as well as Christian. These two were objects of +my particular regard and attention, and I took great pains to instruct +them, for they really promised, as professional men, to be a credit to +their country. + +Young was well recommended, and appeared to me an able stout seaman; +therefore I was glad to take him: he, however, fell short of what his +appearance promised. + +Stewart was a young man of creditable parents, in the Orkneys; at which +place, on the return of the Resolution from the South Seas, in 1780, we +received so many civilities, that, on that account only, I should gladly +have taken him with me: but, independent of this recommendation, he was +a seaman, and had always borne a good character. + +Notwithstanding the roughness with which I was treated, the remembrance +of past kindnesses produced some signs of remorse in Christian. When +they were forcing me out of the ship, I asked him, if this treatment was +a proper return for the many instances he had received of my friendship? +he appeared disturbed at my question, and answered, with much emotion, +"That,--captain Bligh,--that is the thing;--I am in hell--I am in hell." + +As soon as I had time to reflect, I felt an inward satisfaction which +prevented any depression of my spirits: conscious of my integrity, and +anxious solicitude for the good of the service in which I was engaged, +I found my mind wonderfully supported, and I began to conceive hopes, +notwithstanding so heavy a calamity, that I should one day be able to +account to my King and country for the misfortune.--A few hours before, +my situation had been peculiarly flattering. I had a ship in the most +perfect order, and well stored with every necessary both for service and +health: by early attention to those particulars I had, as much as lay in +my power, provided against any accident, in case I could not get through +Endeavour Straits, as well as against what might befal me in them; add +to this, the plants had been successfully preserved in the most +flourishing state: so that, upon the whole, the voyage was two thirds +completed, and the remaining part in a very promising way; every person +on board being in perfect health, to establish which was ever amongst +the principal objects of my attention. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +It will very naturally be asked, what could be the reason for such a +revolt? in answer to which, I can only conjecture that the mutineers had +assured themselves of a more happy life among the Otaheiteans, than they +could possibly have in England; which, joined to some female +connections, have most probably been the principal cause of the whole +transaction. + +The women at Otaheite are handsome, mild and chearful in their manners +and conversation, possessed of great sensibility, and have sufficient +delicacy to make them admired and beloved. The chiefs were so much +attached to our people, that they rather encouraged their stay among +them than otherwise, and even made them promises of large possessions. +Under these, and many other attendant circumstances, equally desirable, +it is now perhaps not so much to be wondered at, though scarcely +possible to have been foreseen, that a set of sailors, most of them +void of connections, should be led away; especially when, in addition to +such powerful inducements, they imagined it in their power to fix +themselves in the midst of plenty, on the finest island in the world, +where they need not labour, and where the allurements of dissipation are +beyond any thing that can be conceived. The utmost, however, that any +commander could have supposed to have happened is, that some of the +people would have been tempted to desert. But if it should be asserted, +that a commander is to guard against an act of mutiny and piracy in his +own ship, more than by the common rules of service, it is as much as to +say that he must sleep locked up, and when awake, be girded with +pistols. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +Desertions have happened, more or less, from many of the ships that have +been at the Society Islands; but it ever has been in the commanders +power to make the chiefs return their people: the knowledge, therefore, +that it was unsafe to desert; perhaps, first led mine to consider with +what ease so small a ship might be surprized, and that so favourable an +opportunity would never offer to them again. + +The secrecy of this mutiny is beyond all conception. Thirteen of the +party, who were with me, had always lived forward among the people; yet +neither they, nor the messmates of Christian, Stewart, Haywood, and +Young, had ever observed any circumstance to give them suspicion of what +was going on. With such close-planned acts of villainy, and my mind free +from any suspicion, it is not wonderful that I have been got the better +of. Perhaps, if I had had marines, a centinel at my cabin-door might +have prevented it; for I slept with the door always open, that the +officer of the watch might have access to me on all occasions. The +possibility of such a conspiracy was ever the farthest from my +thoughts. Had their mutiny been occasioned by any grievances, either +real or imaginary, I must have discovered symptoms of their discontent, +which would have put me on my guard: but the case was far otherwise. +Christian, in particular, I was on the most friendly terms with; that +very day he was engaged to have dined with me; and the preceding night +he excused himself from supping with me, on pretence of being unwell; +for which I felt concerned, having no suspicions of his integrity and +honour. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL.] + +It now remained with me to consider what was best to be done. My first +determination was to seek a supply of bread-fruit and water at Tofoa, +and afterwards to sail for Tongataboo; and there risk a solicitation to +Poulaho, the king, to equip my boat, and grant a supply of water and +provisions, so as to enable us to reach the East Indies. + +The quantity of provisions I found in the boat was 150 lb. of bread, 16 +pieces of pork, each piece weighing 2 lb. 6 quarts of rum, 6 bottles of +wine, with 28 gallons of water, and four empty barrecoes. + +[Sidenote: Wednesday 29.] + +Wednesday, April 29th[*]. Happily the afternoon kept calm, until about 4 +o'clock, when we were so far to windward, that, with a moderate easterly +breeze which sprung up, we were able to sail. It was nevertheless dark +when we got to Tofoa, where I expected to land; but the shore proved to +be so steep and rocky, that I was obliged to give up all thoughts of it, +and keep the boat under the lee of the island with two oars; for there +was no anchorage. Having fixed on this mode of proceeding for the night, +I served to every person half a pint of grog, and each took to his rest +as well as our unhappy situation would allow. + +[*] It is to be observed, that the account of time is kept in the +nautical way, each day ending at noon. Thus the beginning of the 29th of +April is, according to the common way of reckoning, the afternoon of the +28th. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL 29.] + +In the morning, at dawn of day, we set off along shore in search of +landing, and about ten o'clock we discovered a stony cove at the N W +part of the island, where I dropt the grapnel within 20 yards of the +rocks. A great deal of surf ran on the shore; but, as I was unwilling to +diminish our stock of provisions, I landed Mr. Samuel, and some others, +who climbed the cliffs, and got into the country to search for supplies. +The rest of us remained at the cove, not discovering any way to get into +the country, but that by which Mr. Samuel had proceeded. It was great +consolation to me to find, that the spirits of my people did not sink, +notwithstanding our miserable and almost hopeless situation. Towards +noon Mr. Samuel returned, with a few quarts of water, which he had found +in holes; but he had met with no spring or any prospect of a sufficient +supply in that particular, and had only seen signs of inhabitants. As it +was impossible to know how much we might be in want, I only issued a +morsel of bread, and a glass of wine, to each person for dinner. + +I observed the latitude of this cove to be 19 deg. 41' S. + +This is the N W part of Tofoa, the north-westernmost of the Friendly +Islands. + +[Sidenote: Thursday 30.] + +Thursday, April 30th. Fair weather, but the wind blew so violently from +the E S E that I could not venture to sea. Our detention therefore made +it absolutely necessary to see what we could do more for our support; +for I determined, if possible, to keep my first stock entire: I +therefore weighed, and rowed along shore, to see if any thing could be +got; and at last discovered some cocoa-nut trees, but they were on the +top of high precipices, and the surf made it dangerous landing; both +one and the other we, however, got the better of. Some, with much +difficulty, climbed the cliffs, and got about 20 cocoa-nuts, and others +slung them to ropes, by which we hauled them through the surf into the +boat. This was all that could be done here; and, as I found no place so +eligible as the one we had left to spend the night at, I returned to the +cove, and, having served a cocoa-nut to each person, we went to rest +again in the boat. + +[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL 30.] + +At dawn of day I attempted to get to sea; but the wind and weather +proved so bad, that I was glad to return to my former station; where, +after issuing a morsel of bread and a spoonful of rum to each person, we +landed, and I went off with Mr. Nelson, Mr. Samuel, and some others, +into the country, having hauled ourselves up the precipice by long +vines, which were fixed there by the natives for that purpose; this +being the only way into the country. + +We found a few deserted huts, and a small plantain walk, but little +taken care of; from which we could only collect three small bunches of +plantains. After passing this place, we came to a deep gully that led +towards a mountain, near a volcano; and, as I conceived that in the +rainy season very great torrents of water must pass through it, we hoped +to find sufficient for our use remaining in some holes of the rocks; +but, after all our search, the whole that we found was only nine +gallons, in the course of the day. We advanced within two miles of the +foot of the highest mountain in the island, on which is the volcano that +is almost constantly burning. The country near it is all covered with +lava, and has a most dreary appearance. As we had not been fortunate in +our discoveries, and saw but little to alleviate our distresses, we +filled our cocoa-nut shells with the water we found, and returned +exceedingly fatigued and faint. When I came to the precipice whence we +were to descend into the cove, I was seized with such a dizziness in my +head, that I thought it scarce possible to effect it: however, by the +assistance of Mr. Nelson, and others, they at last got me down, in a +weak condition. Every person being returned by noon, I gave about an +ounce of pork and two plantains to each, with half a glass of wine. I +again observed the latitude of this place 19 deg. 41' south. The people who +remained by the boat I had directed to look for fish, or what they could +pick up about the rocks; but nothing eatable could be found: so that, +upon the whole, we considered ourselves on as miserable a spot of land +as could well be imagined. + +I could not say positively, from the former knowledge I had of this +island, whether it was inhabited or not; but I knew it was considered +inferior to the other islands, and I was not certain but that the +Indians only resorted to it at particular times. I was very anxious to +ascertain this point; for, in case there had only been a few people +here, and those could have furnished us with but very moderate supplies, +the remaining in this spot to have made preparations for our voyage, +would have been preferable to the risk of going amongst multitudes, +where perhaps we might lose every thing. A party, therefore, +sufficiently strong, I determined should go another route, as soon as +the sun became lower; and they cheerfully undertook it. + +[Sidenote: MAY. Friday 1.] + +Friday, May the 1st: stormy weather, wind E S E and S E. About two +o'clock in the afternoon the party set out; but, after suffering much +fatigue, they returned in the evening, without any kind of success. + +At the head of the cove, about 150 yards from the water-side, was a +cave; across the stony beach was about 100 yards, and the only way from +the country into the cove was that which I have already described. The +situation secured us from the danger of being surprised, and I +determined to remain on shore for the night, with a part of my people, +that the others might have more room to rest in the boat, with the +master; whom I directed to lie at a grapnel, and be watchful, in case we +should be attacked. I ordered one plantain for each person to be boiled; +and, having supped on this scanty allowance, with a quarter of a pint of +grog, and fixed the watches for the night, those whose turn it was, laid +down to sleep in the cave; before which we kept up a good fire, yet +notwithstanding we were much troubled with flies and musquitoes. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 1.] + +At dawn of day the party set out again in a different route, to see what +they could find; in the course of which they suffered greatly for want +of water: they, however, met with two men, a woman, and a child; the men +came with them to the cove, and brought two cocoa-nut shells of water. I +immediately made friends with these people, and sent them away for +bread-fruit, plantains, and water. Soon after other natives came to us; +and by noon I had 30 of them about me, trading with the articles we were +in want of: but I could only afford one ounce of pork, and a quarter of +a bread-fruit, to each man for dinner, with half a pint of water; for I +was fixed in not using any of the bread or water in the boat. + +No particular chief was yet among the natives: they were, +notwithstanding, tractable, and behaved honestly, giving the provisions +they brought for a few buttons and beads. The party who had been out, +informed me of having discovered several neat plantations; so that it +became no longer a doubt of there being settled inhabitants on the +island; and for that reason I determined to get what I could, and sail +the first moment the wind and weather would allow me to put to sea. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 1.] + +[Sidenote: Saturday 2.] + +Saturday, May the 2d: stormy weather, wind E S E. It had hitherto been a +weighty consideration with me, how I was to account to the natives for +the loss of my ship: I knew they had too much sense to be amused with a +story that the ship was to join me, when she was not in sight from the +hills. I was at first doubtful whether I should tell the real fact, or +say that the ship had overset and sunk, and that only we were saved: the +latter appeared to me to be the most proper and advantageous to us, and +I accordingly instructed my people, that we might all agree in one +story. As I expected, enquiries were made after the ship, and they +seemed readily satisfied with our account; but there did not appear the +least symptom of joy or sorrow in their faces, although I fancied I +discovered some marks of surprise. Some of the natives were coming and +going the whole afternoon, and we got enough of bread-fruit, plantains, +and cocoa-nuts for another day; but water they only brought us about +five pints. A canoe also came in with four men, and brought a few +cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit, which I bought as I had done the rest. Nails +were much enquired after, but I would not suffer one to be shewn, as I +wanted them for the use of the boat. + +Towards evening I had the satisfaction to find our stock of provisions +somewhat increased: but the natives did not appear to have much to +spare. What they brought was in such small quantities, that I had no +reason to hope we should be able to procure from them sufficient to +stock us for our voyage. At sun-set all the natives left us in quiet +possession of the cove. I thought this a good sign, and made no doubt +that they would come again the next day with a larger proportion of food +and water, with which I hoped to sail without farther delay: for if, in +attempting to get to Tongataboo, we should be blown away from the +islands altogether, there would be a larger quantity of provisions to +support us against such a misfortune. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 2.] + +At night I served a quarter of a bread-fruit and a cocoa-nut to each +person for supper; and, a good fire being made, all but the watch went +to sleep. + +At day-break I was happy to find every one's spirits a little revived, +and that they no longer regarded me with those anxious looks, which had +constantly been directed towards me since we lost sight of the ship: +every countenance appeared to have a degree of cheerfulness, and they +all seemed determined to do their best. + +As I doubted of water being brought by the natives, I sent a party among +the gullies in the mountains, with empty shells, to see what they could +get. In their absence the natives came about us, as I expected, but more +numerous; also two canoes came in from round the north side of the +island. In one of them was an elderly chief, called Maccaackavow. Soon +after some of our foraging party returned, and with them came a +good-looking chief, called Eegijeefow, or perhaps more properly Eefow, +Egij or Eghee, signifying a chief. To both these men I made a present of +an old shirt and a knife, and I soon found they either had seen me, or +had heard of my being at Annamooka. They knew I had been with captain +Cook, who they enquired after, and also captain Clerk. They were very +inquisitive to know in what manner I had lost my ship. During this +conversation a young man appeared, whom I remembered to have seen at +Annamooka, called Nageete: he expressed much pleasure at seeing me. I +now enquired after Poulaho and Feenow, who, they said, were at +Tongataboo; and Eefow agreed to accompany me thither, if I would wait +till the weather moderated. The readiness and affability of this man +gave me much satisfaction. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 2.] + +This, however, was but of short duration, for the natives began to +increase in number, and I observed some symptoms of a design against us; +soon after they attempted to haul the boat on shore, when I threatened +Eefow with a cutlass, to induce him to make them desist; which they did, +and every thing became quiet again. My people, who had been in the +mountains, now returned with about three gallons of water. I kept buying +up the little bread-fruit that was brought to us, and likewise some +spears to arm my men with, having only four cutlasses, two of which were +in the boat. As we had no means of improving our situation, I told our +people I would wait until sun-set, by which time, perhaps, something +might happen in our favour: that if we attempted to go at present, we +must fight our way through, which we could do more advantageously at +night; and that in the mean time we would endeavour to get off to the +boat what we had bought. The beach was now lined with the natives, and +we heard nothing but the knocking of stones together, which they had in +each hand. I knew very well this was the sign of an attack. It being now +noon, I served a cocoa-nut and a bread-fruit to each person for dinner, +and gave some to the chiefs, with whom I continued to appear intimate +and friendly. They frequently importuned me to sit down, but I as +constantly refused; for it occurred both to Mr. Nelson and myself, that +they intended to seize hold of me, if I gave them such an opportunity. +Keeping, therefore, constantly on our guard, we were suffered to eat our +uncomfortable meal in some quietness. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 2.] + +[Sidenote: Sunday 3.] + +Sunday, 3d May, fresh gales at S E and E S E, varying to the N E in the +latter part, with a storm of wind. + +After dinner we began by little and little to get our things into the +boat, which was a troublesome business, on account of the surf. I +carefully watched the motions of the natives, who still increased in +number, and found that, instead of their intention being to leave us, +fires were made, and places fixed on for their stay during the night. +Consultations were also held among them, and every thing assured me we +should be attacked. I sent orders to the master, that when he saw us +coming down, he should keep the boat close to the shore, that we might +the more readily embark. + +I had my journal on shore with me, writing the occurrences in the cave, +and in sending it down to the boat it was nearly snatched away, but for +the timely assistance of the gunner. + +The sun was near setting when I gave the word, on which every person, +who was on shore with me, boldly took up his proportion of things, and +carried them to the boat. The chiefs asked me if I would not stay with +them all night, I said, "No, I never sleep out of my boat; but in the +morning we will again trade with you, and I shall remain until the +weather is moderate, that we may go, as we have agreed, to see Poulaho, +at Tongataboo." Maccaackavow then got up, and said, "You will not sleep +on shore? then Mattie," (which directly signifies we will kill you) and +he left me. The onset was now preparing; every one, as I have described +before, kept knocking stones together, and Eefow quitted me. We had now +all but two or three things in the boat, when I took Nageete by the +hand, and we walked down the beach, every one in a silent kind of +horror. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 3.] + +When I came to the boat, and was seeing the people embark, Nageete +wanted me to stay to speak to Eefow; but I found he was encouraging them +to the attack, and I determined, had it then begun, to have killed him +for his treacherous behaviour. I ordered the carpenter not to quit me +until the other people were in the boat. Nageete, finding I would not +stay, loosed himself from my hold and went off, and we all got into the +boat except one man, who, while I was getting on board, quitted it, and +ran up the beach to cast the stern fast off, notwithstanding the master +and others called to him to return, while they were hauling me out of +the water. + +I was no sooner in the boat than the attack began by about 200 men; the +unfortunate poor man who had run up the beach was knocked down, and the +stones flew like a shower of shot. Many Indians got hold of the stern +rope, and were near hauling us on shore, and would certainly have done +it if I had not had a knife in my pocket, with which I cut the rope. We +then hauled off to the grapnel, every one being more or less hurt. At +this time I saw five of the natives about the poor man they had killed, +and two of them were beating him about the head with stones in their +hands. + +[Sidenote: 1789. May 3] + +We had no time to reflect, before, to my surprise, they filled their +canoes with stones, and twelve men came off after us to renew the +attack, which they did so effectually as nearly to disable all of us. +Our grapnel was foul, but Providence here assisted us; the fluke broke, +and we got to our oars, and pulled to sea. They, however, could paddle +round us, so that we were obliged to sustain the attack without being +able to return it, except with such stones as lodged in the boat, and in +this I found we were very inferior to them. We could not close, because +our boat was lumbered and heavy, and that they knew very well: I +therefore adopted the expedient of throwing overboard some cloaths, +which they lost time in picking up; and, as it was now almost dark, they +gave over the attack, and returned towards the shore, leaving us to +reflect on our unhappy situation. + +The poor man I lost was John Norton: this was his second voyage with me +as a quarter-master, and his worthy character made me lament his loss +very much. He has left an aged parent, I am told, whom he supported. + +[Sidenote: 1789. May 3.] + +I once before sustained an attack of a similar nature, with a smaller +number of Europeans, against a multitude of Indians; it was after the +death of captain Cook, on the Morai at Owhyhee, where I was left by +lieutenant King: yet, notwithstanding, I did not conceive that the power +of a man's arm could throw stones, from two to eight pounds weight, with +such force and exactness as these people did. Here unhappily I was +without arms, and the Indians knew it; but it was a fortunate +circumstance that they did not begin to attack us in the cave: in that +case our destruction must have been inevitable, and we should have had +nothing left for it but to die as bravely as we could, fighting close +together; in which I found every one cheerfully disposed to join me. +This appearance of resolution deterred them, supposing they could effect +their purpose without risk after we were in the boat. + +Taking this as a sample of the dispositions of the Indians, there was +little reason to expect much benefit if I persevered in my intention of +visiting Poulaho; for I considered their good behaviour hitherto to +proceed from a dread of our fire-arms, which, now knowing us destitute +of, would cease; and, even supposing our lives not in danger, the boat +and every thing we had would most probably be taken from us, and thereby +all hopes precluded of ever being able to return to our native country. + +We were now sailing along the west side of the island Tofoa, and my mind +was employed in considering what was best to be done, when I was +solicited by all hands to take them towards home: and, when I told them +no hopes of relief for us remained, but what I might find at New +Holland, until I came to Timor, a distance of full 1200 leagues, where +was a Dutch settlement, but in what part of the island I knew not, they +all agreed to live on one ounce of bread, and a quarter of a pint of +water, per day. Therefore, after examining our stock of provisions, and +recommending this as a sacred promise for ever to their memory, we bore +away across a sea, where the navigation is but little known, in a small +boat, twenty-three feet long from stern to stern, deep laden with +eighteen men; without a chart, and nothing but my own recollection and +general knowledge of the situation of places, assisted by a book of +latitudes and longitudes, to guide us. I was happy, however, to see +every one better satisfied with our situation in this particular than +myself. + +[Sidenote: 1789. May 3.] + +Our stock of provisions consisted of about one hundred and fifty pounds +of bread, twenty-eight gallons of water, twenty pounds of pork, three +bottles of wine, and five quarts of rum. The difference between this and +the quantity we had on leaving the ship, was principally owing to loss +in the bustle and confusion of the attack. A few cocoa-nuts were in the +boat, and some bread-fruit, but the latter was trampled to pieces. + +It was about eight o'clock at night when I bore away under a reefed lug +fore-sail: and, having divided the people into watches, and got the boat +in a little order, we returned God thanks for our miraculous +preservation, and, fully confident of his gracious support, I found my +mind more at ease than for some time past. + +At day-break the gale increased; the sun rose very fiery and red, a sure +indication of a severe gale of wind. At eight it blew a violent storm, +and the sea ran very high, so that between the seas the sail was +becalmed, and when on the top of the sea it was too much to have set: +but I was obliged to carry to it, for we were now in very imminent +danger and distress, the sea curling over the stern of the boat, which +obliged us to bale with all our might. A situation more distressing has, +perhaps, seldom been experienced. + +Our bread was in bags, and in danger of being spoiled by the wet: to be +starved to death was inevitable, if this could not be prevented: I +therefore began to examine what cloaths there were in the boat, and what +other things could be spared; and, having determined that only two suits +should be kept for each person, the rest was thrown overboard, with some +rope and spare sails, which lightened the boat considerably, and we had +more room to bale the water out. Fortunately the carpenter had a good +chest in the boat, into which I put the bread the first favourable +moment. His tool chest also was cleared, and the tools stowed in the +bottom of the boat, so that this became a second convenience. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 3.] + +I now served a tea-spoonful of rum to each person, (for we were very wet +and cold) with a quarter of a bread-fruit, which was scarce eatable, for +dinner; but our engagement was now strictly to be carried into +execution, and I was fully determined to make what provisions I had last +eight weeks, let the daily proportion be ever so small. + +At noon I considered my course and distance from Tofoa to be W N W 3/4 +W. 86 miles, my latitude 19 deg. 27' S. I directed my course to the W N W, +that I might get a sight of the islands called Feejee, if they laid in +the direction the natives had pointed out to me. + +[Sidenote: Monday 4.] + +Monday, 4th May. This day the weather was very severe, it blew a storm +from N E to E S E. The sea ran higher than yesterday, and the fatigue of +baling, to keep the boat from filling, was exceedingly great. We could +do nothing more than keep before the sea; in the course of which the +boat performed so wonderfully well, that I no longer dreaded any danger +in that respect. But among the hardships we were to undergo, that of +being constantly wet was not the least: the nights were very cold, and +at day-light our limbs were so benumbed, that we could scarce find the +use of them. At this time I served a tea-spoonful of rum to each person, +which we all found great benefit from. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 4.] + +As I have mentioned before, I determined to keep to the W N W, until I +got more to the northward, for I not only expected to have better +weather, but to see the Feejee Islands, as I have often understood, from +the natives of Annamooka, that they lie in that direction; Captain Cook +likewise considers them to be N W by W from Tongataboo. Just before noon +we discovered a small flat island of a moderate height, bearing W S W, 4 +or 5 leagues. I observed in latitude 18 deg. 58' S; our longitude, by +account, 3 deg. 4' W from the island Tofoa, having made a N 72 deg. W course, +distance 95 miles, since yesterday noon. I divided five small cocoa-nuts +for our dinner, and every one was satisfied. + +[Sidenote: Tuesday 5.] + +Tuesday, 5th May. Towards the evening the gale considerably abated. Wind +S E. + +A little after noon, other islands appeared, and at a quarter past three +o'clock we could count eight, bearing from S round by the west to N W by +N; those to the south, which were the nearest, being four leagues +distant from us. + +I kept my course to the N W by W, between the islands, and at six +o'clock discovered three other small islands to the N W, the westernmost +of them bore N W 1/2 W 7 leagues. I steered to the southward of these +islands, a W N W course for the night, under a reefed sail. + +Served a few broken pieces of bread-fruit for supper, and performed +prayers. + +The night turned out fair, and, having had tolerable rest, every one +seemed considerably better in the morning, and contentedly breakfasted +on a few pieces of yams that were found in the boat. After breakfast we +prepared a chest for our bread, and it got secured: but unfortunately a +great deal was damaged and rotten; this nevertheless we were glad to +keep for use. + +I had hitherto been scarcely able to keep any account of our run; but we +now equipped ourselves a little better, by getting a log-line marked, +and, having practised at counting seconds; several could do it with +some degree of exactness. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 5.] + +The islands I have passed lie between the latitude of 19 deg. 5' S and 18 deg. +19' S, and, according to my reckoning, from 3 deg. 17' to 3 deg. 46' W longitude +from the island Tofoa: the largest may be about six leagues in circuit; +but it is impossible for me to be very exact. To show where they are to +be found again is the most my situation enabled me to do. The sketch I +have made, will give a comparative view of their extent. I believe all +the larger islands are inhabited, as they appeared very fertile. + +At noon I observed, in latitude 18 deg. 10' S, and considered my course and +distance from yesterday noon, N W by W 1/2 W, 94 miles; longitude, by +account, from Tofoa 4 deg. 29' W. + +For dinner, I served some of the damaged bread, and a quarter of a pint +of water. + +[Sidenote: Wednesday 6.] + +Wednesday, 6th May. Fresh breezes E N E, and fair weather, but very +hazy. + +About six o'clock this afternoon I discovered two islands, one bearing W +by S 6 leagues, and the other N W by N 8 leagues; I kept to windward of +the northernmost, and passing it by 10 o'clock, I resumed my course to +the N W and W N W. At day-light in the morning I discovered a number of +other islands from S S E to the W, and round to N E by E; between those +in the N W I determined to pass. At noon a small sandy island or key, 2 +miles distant from me, bore from E to S 3/4 W. I had passed ten islands, +the largest of which may be 6 or 8 leagues in circuit. Much larger lands +appeared in the S W and N by W, between which I directed my course. +Latitude observed 17 deg. 17' S; course since yesterday noon N 50 deg. W; +distance 84 miles; longitude made, by account, 5 deg. 37' W. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 6.] + +Our supper, breakfast, and dinner, consisted of a quarter of a pint of +cocoa-nut milk, and the meat, which did not exceed two ounces to each +person: it was received very contentedly, but we suffered great drought. +I dared not to land, as we had no arms, and were less capable to defend +ourselves than we were at Tofoa. + +To keep an account of the boat's run was rendered difficult, from being +constantly wet with the sea breaking over us; but, as we advanced +towards the land, the sea became smoother, and I was enabled to form a +sketch of the islands, which will serve to give a general knowledge of +their extent. Those I have been near are fruitful and hilly, some very +mountainous, and all of a good height. + +To our great joy we hooked a fish, but we were miserably disappointed by +its being lost in getting into the boat. + +[Sidenote: Thursday 7.] + +Thursday, 7th May. Variable weather and cloudy, wind north-easterly, and +calms. I continued my course to the N W, between the islands, which, by +the evening, appeared of considerable extent, woody and mountainous. At +sun-set the southernmost bore from S to S W by W, and the northernmost +from N by W 1/2 W to N E 1/2 E. At six o'clock I was nearly mid-way +between them, and about 6 leagues distant from each shore, when I fell +in with a coral bank, where I had only four feet water, without the +least break on it, or ruffle of the sea to give us warning. I could only +see that it extended about a mile on each side of us; but, as it is +probable that it extends much farther, I have laid it down so in my +sketch. + +I now directed my course W by N for the night, and served to each person +an ounce of the damaged bread, and a quarter of a pint of water, for +supper. + +[Sidenote: 1789. May 7.] + +It may readily be supposed, that our lodgings were very miserable and +confined, and I had only in my power to remedy the latter defect by +putting ourselves at watch and watch; so that one half always sat up +while the other lay down on the boat's bottom, or upon a chest, with +nothing to cover us but the heavens. Our limbs were dreadfully cramped, +for we could not stretch them out, and the nights were so cold, and we +so constantly wet, that after a few hours sleep we could scarce move. + +At dawn of day we again discovered land from W S W to W N W, and another +island N N W, the latter a high round lump of but little extent; and I +could see the southern land that I had passed in the night. Being very +wet and cold, I served a spoonful of rum and a morsel of bread for +breakfast. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 7.] + +As I advanced towards the land in the west, it appeared in a variety of +forms; some extraordinary high rocks, and the country agreeably +interspersed with high and low land, covered in some places with wood. +Off the N E part lay two small rocky islands, between which and the +island to the N E, 4 leagues apart, I directed my course; but a lee +current very unexpectedly set us very near to the shore, and I could +only get clear of it by rowing, passing close to the reef that +surrounded the rocky isles. We now observed two large sailing canoes +coming swiftly after us along shore, and, being apprehensive of their +intentions, we rowed with some anxiety, being sensible of our weak and +defenceless state. It was now noon, calm and cloudy weather, my latitude +is therefore doubtful to 3 or 4 miles; my course since yesterday noon N +56 W, distance 79 miles; latitude by account, 16 deg. 29' S, and longitude +by account, from Tofoa, 6 deg. 46' W. Being constantly wet, it was with the +utmost difficulty I could open a book to write, and I am sensible that +what I have done can only serve to point out where these lands are to +be found again, and give an idea of their extent. + +[Sidenote: Friday 8.] + +Friday, 8th May. All the afternoon the weather was very rainy, attended +with thunder and lightning. Wind N N E. + +Only one of the canoes gained upon us, and by three o'clock in the +afternoon was not more than two miles off, when she gave over chase. + +If I may judge from the sail of the vessels, they are the same as at the +Friendly Islands, and the nearness of their situation leaves little room +to doubt of their being the same kind of people. Whether these canoes +had any hostile intention against us is a matter of doubt; perhaps we +might have benefited by an intercourse with them, but in our defenceless +situation it would have been risking too much to make the experiment. + +I imagine these to be the islands called Feejee, as their extent, +direction, and distance from the Friendly Islands, answers to the +description given of them by those Islanders. Heavy rain came on at four +o'clock, when every person did their utmost to catch some water, and we +increased our stock to 34 gallons, besides quenching our thirst for the +first time since we had been at sea; but an attendant consequence made +us pass the night very miserably, for, being extremely wet, and no dry +things to shift or cover us, we experienced cold and shiverings scarce +to be conceived. Most fortunately for us, the forenoon turned out fair, +and we stripped and dried our cloaths. The allowance I issued to-day, +was an ounce and a half of pork, a tea-spoonful of rum, half a pint of +cocoa-nut milk, and an ounce of bread. The rum, though so small in +quantity, was of the greatest service. A fishing-line was generally +towing, and we saw great numbers of fish, but could never catch one. + +At noon, I observed, in latitude 16 deg. 4' S, and found I had made a +course, from yesterday noon, N 62 deg. W, distance 62 miles; longitude, by +account, from Tofoa, 7 deg. 42' W. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 8.] + +The land I passed yesterday, and the day before, is a group of islands, +14 or 16 in number, lying between the latitude of 16 deg. 26' S and 17 deg. 57' +S, and in longitude, by my account, 4 deg. 47' to 7 deg. 17' W from Tofoa; three +of these islands are very large, having from 30 to 40 leagues of +sea-coast. + +[Sidenote: Saturday 9.] + +Saturday, 9th May. Fine weather, and light winds from the N E to E by S. + +This afternoon we cleaned out the boat, and it employed us till sun-set +to get every thing dry and in order. Hitherto I had issued the allowance +by guess, but I now got a pair of scales, made with two cocoa-nut +shells; and, having accidentally some pistol-balls in the boat, 25[*] of +which weighed one pound, or 16 ounces, I adopted one, as the proportion +of weight that each person should receive of bread at the times I served +it. I also amused all hands, with describing the situation of New Guinea +and New Holland, and gave them every information in my power, that in +case any accident happened to me, those who survived might have some +idea of what they were about, and be able to find their way to Timor, +which at present they knew nothing of, more than the name, and some not +that. + +[*] It weighed 272 grains. + +At night I served a quarter of a pint of water, and half an ounce of +bread, for supper. In the morning, a quarter of a pint of cocoa-nut +milk, and some of the decayed bread, for breakfast; and for dinner, I +divided the meat of four cocoa-nuts, with the remainder of the rotten +bread, which was only eatable by such distressed people. + +At noon, I observed the latitude to be 15 deg. 47' S; course since yesterday +N 75 deg. W; distant 64 miles; longitude made, by account, 8 deg. 45' W. + +[Sidenote: 1789 MAY 10.] + +[Sidenote: Sunday 10.] + +Sunday, May the 10th. The first part of this day fine weather; but after +sun-set it became squally, with hard rain, thunder, and lightning, and a +fresh gale; wind E by S, S E, and S S E. + +In the afternoon I got fitted a pair of shrouds for each mast and +contrived a canvass weather cloth round the boat, and raised the +quarters about nine inches, by nailing on the seats of the stern sheets, +which proved of great benefit to us. + +About nine o'clock in the evening, the clouds began to gather, and we +had a prodigious fall of rain, with severe thunder and lightning. By +midnight we had caught about twenty gallons of water. Being miserably +wet and cold, I served to each person a tea-spoonful of rum, to enable +them to bear with their distressed situation. The weather continued +extremely bad, and the wind increased; we spent a very miserable night, +without sleep, but such as could be got in the midst of rain. The day +brought us no relief but its light. The sea was constantly breaking over +us, which kept two persons baling; and we had no choice how to steer, +for we were obliged to keep before the waves to avoid filling the boat. + +The allowance which I now regularly served to each person was one 25th +of a pound of bread, and a quarter of a pint of water, at sun-set, eight +in the morning, and at noon. To-day I gave about half an ounce of pork +for dinner, which, though any moderate person would have considered but +a mouthful, was divided into three or four. + +The rain abated towards noon, and I observed the latitude to be 15 deg. 17' +S; course N 67 deg. W; distance 78 miles; longitude made 10 deg. W. + +[Sidenote: Monday 11.] + +Monday, May the 11th. Strong gales from S S E to S E, and very squally +weather, with a high breaking sea, so that we were miserably wet, and +suffered great cold in the night. In the morning at day-break I served +to every person a tea-spoonful of rum, our limbs being so cramped that +we could scarce feel the use of them. Our situation was now extremely +dangerous, the sea frequently running over our stern, which kept us +baling with all our strength. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 11.] + +At noon the sun appeared, which gave us as much pleasure as in a +winter's day in England. I issued the 25th of a pound of bread, and a +quarter of a pint of water, as yesterday. Latitude observed 14 deg. 50' S; +course N 71 deg. W; distance 102 miles; and longitude, by account, 11 deg. 39' +W. from Tofoa. + +[Sidenote: Tuesday 12.] + +Tuesday, May the 12th. Strong gales at S E, with much rain and dark +dismal weather, moderating towards noon and wind varying to the N E. + +Having again experienced a dreadful night, the day showed to me a poor +miserable set of beings full of wants, without any thing to relieve +them. Some complained of a great pain in their bowels, and all of having +but very little use of their limbs. What sleep we got was scarce +refreshing, we being covered with sea and rain. Two persons were obliged +to be always baling the water out of the boat. I served a spoonful of +rum at day-dawn, and the usual allowance of bread and water, for supper, +breakfast, and dinner. + +At noon it was almost calm, no sun to be seen, and some of us shivering +with cold. Course since yesterday W by N; distance 89 miles; latitude, +by account, 14 deg. 33' S; longitude made 13 deg. 9' W. The direction of my +course is to pass to the northward of the New Hebrides. + +[Sidenote: Wednesday 13.] + +Wednesday, May the 13th. Very squally weather, wind southerly. As I saw +no prospect of getting our cloaths dried, I recommended it to every one +to strip, and wring them through the salt water, by which means they +received a warmth, that, while wet with rain, they could not have, and +we were less liable to suffer from colds or rheumatic complaints. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 13.] + +In the afternoon we saw a kind of fruit on the water, which Mr. Nelson +knew to be the Barringtonia of Forster, and, as I saw the same again in +the morning, and some men of war birds, I was led to believe we were not +far from land. + +We continued constantly shipping seas, and baling, and were very wet and +cold in the night; but I could not afford the allowance of rum at +day-break. The twenty-fifth of a pound of bread, and water I served as +usual. At noon I had a sight of the sun, latitude 14 deg. 17' S; course W by +N 79 miles; longitude made 14 deg. 28' W. + +[Sidenote: Thursday 14.] + +Thursday, May the 14th. Fresh breezes and cloudy weather, wind +southerly. Constantly shipping water, and very wet, suffering much cold +and shiverings in the night. Served the usual allowance of bread and +water, three times a day. + +At six in the morning, we saw land, from S W by S eight leagues, to N W +by W 3/4 W six leagues, which I soon after found to be four islands, all +of them high and remarkable. At noon discovered a rocky island N W by N +four leagues, and another island W eight leagues, so that the whole were +six in number; the four I had first seen bearing from S 1/2 E to S W by +S; our distance three leagues from the nearest island. My latitude +observed was 13 deg. 29' S, and longitude, by account, from Tofoa, 15 deg. 49' +W; course since yesterday noon N 63 deg. W; distance 89 miles. + +[Sidenote: Friday 15.] + +Friday, May the 15th. Fresh gales at S E, and gloomy weather with rain, +and a very high sea; two people constantly employed baling. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 15.] + +At four in the afternoon I passed the westernmost island. At one in the +morning I discovered another, bearing W N W, five leagues distance, and +at eight o'clock I saw it for the last time, bearing N E seven leagues. +A number of gannets, boobies, and men of war birds were seen. + +These islands lie between the latitude of 13 deg. 16' S and 14 deg. 10' S: their +longitude, according to my reckoning, 15 deg. 51' to 17 deg. 6' W from the +island Tofoa[*]. The largest island may be twenty leagues in circuit, +the others five or six. The easternmost is the smallest island, and most +remarkable, having a high sugar-loaf hill. + +[*] By making a proportional allowance for the error afterwards found in +the dead reckoning, I estimate the longitude of these islands to be from +167 deg. 17' E to 168 deg. 34' E from Greenwich. + +The sight of these islands served but to increase the misery of our +situation. We were very little better than starving, with plenty in +view; yet to attempt procuring any relief was attended with so much +danger, that prolonging of life, even in the midst of misery, was +thought preferable, while there remained hopes of being able to surmount +our hardships. For my own part, I consider the general run of cloudy and +wet weather to be a blessing of Providence. Hot weather would have +caused us to have died with thirst; and perhaps being so constantly +covered with rain or sea protected us from that dreadful calamity. + +As I had nothing to assist my memory, I could not determine whether +these islands were a part of the New Hebrides or not: I believed them +perfectly a new discovery, which I have since found to be the case; but, +though they were not seen either by Monsieur Bougainville or Captain +Cook, they are so nearly in the neighbourhood of the New Hebrides, that +they must be considered as part of the same group. They are fertile, and +inhabited, as I saw smoke in several places. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 16.] + +[Sidenote: Saturday 16.] + +Saturday, May the 16th. Fresh gales from the S E, and rainy weather. The +night was very dark, not a star to be seen to steer by, and the sea +breaking constantly over us. I found it necessary to act as much as +possible against the southerly winds, to prevent being driven too near +New Guinea; for in general we were forced to keep so much before the +sea, that if we had not, at intervals of moderate weather, steered a +more southerly course, we should inevitably, from a continuance of the +gales, have been thrown in sight of that coast: in which case there +would most probably have been an end to our voyage. + +In addition to our miserable allowance of one 25th of a pound of bread, +and a quarter of a pint of water, I issued for dinner about an ounce of +salt pork to each person. I was often solicited for this pork, but I +considered it better to give it in small quantities than to use all at +once or twice, which would have been done if I had allowed it. + +At noon I observed, in 13 deg. 33' S; longitude made from Tofoa, 19 deg. 27' W; +course N 82 deg. W; distance 101 miles. The sun gave us hopes of drying our +wet cloaths. + +[Sidenote: Sunday 17.] + +Sunday, May the 17th. The sunshine was but of short duration. We had +strong breezes at S E by S, and dark gloomy weather, with storms of +thunder, lightning, and rain. The night was truly horrible, and not a +star to be seen; so that our steerage was uncertain. At dawn of day I +found every person complaining, and some of them soliciting extra +allowance; but I positively refused it. Our situation was extremely +miserable; always wet, and suffering extreme cold in the night, without +the least shelter from the weather. Being constantly obliged to bale, to +keep the boat from filling, was, perhaps, not to be reckoned an evil, as +it gave us exercise. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 17.] + +The little rum I had was of great service to us; when our nights were +particularly distressing, I generally served a tea-spoonful or two to +each person: and it was always joyful tidings when they heard of my +intentions. + +At noon a water-spout was very near on board of us. I issued an ounce of +pork, in addition to the allowance of bread and water; but before we +began to eat, every person stript and wrung their cloaths through the +sea-water, which we found warm and refreshing. Course since yesterday +noon W S W; distance 100 miles; latitude, by account, 14 deg. 11' S, and +longitude made 21 deg. 3' W. + +[Sidenote: Monday 18.] + +Monday, May the 18th. Fresh gales with rain, and a dark dismal night, +wind S E; the sea constantly breaking over us, and nothing but the wind +and sea to direct our steerage. I now fully determined to make New +Holland, to the southward of Endeavour straits, sensible that it was +necessary to preserve such a situation as would make a southerly wind a +fair one; that I might range the reefs until an opening should be found +into smooth water, and we the sooner be able to pick up some +refreshments. + +In the morning the rain abated, when we stripped, and wrung our cloaths +through the sea-water, as usual, which refreshed us wonderfully. Every +person complained of violent pain in their bones: I was only surprised +that no one was yet laid up. Served one 25th of a pound of bread, and a +quarter of a pint of water, at supper, breakfast, and dinner, as +customary. + +At noon I deduced my situation, by account, for we had no glimpse of the +sun, to be in latitude 14 deg. 52' S; course since yesterday noon W S W 106 +miles; longitude made from Tofoa 22 deg. 45' W. Saw many boobies and +noddies, a sign of being in the neighbourhood of land. + +[Sidenote: 1789. May 19. Tuesday 19.] + +Tuesday, May the 19th. Fresh gales at E N E, with heavy rain, and dark +gloomy weather, and no sight of the sun. We past this day miserably wet +and cold, covered with rain and sea, from which we had no relief, but at +intervals by pulling off our cloaths and wringing them through the sea +water. In the night we had very severe lightning, but otherwise it was +so dark that we could not see each other. The morning produced many +complaints on the severity of the weather, and I would gladly have +issued my allowance of rum, if it had not appeared to me that we were to +suffer much more, and that it was necessary to preserve the little I +had, to give relief at a time we might be less able to bear such +hardships; but, to make up for it, I served out about half an ounce of +pork to each person, with the common allowance of bread and water, for +dinner. All night and day we were obliged to bale without intermission. + +At noon it was very bad weather and constant rain; latitude, by account, +14 deg. 37' S; course since yesterday N 81 deg. W; distance 100 miles; longitude +made 24 deg. 30' W. + +[Sidenote: Wednesday 20.] + +Wednesday, May the 20th. Fresh breezes E N E with constant rain; at +times a deluge. Always baling. + +[Sidenote: 1789. May 20.] + +At dawn of day, some of my people seemed half dead: our appearances were +horrible; and I could look no way, but I caught the eye of some one in +distress. Extreme hunger was now too evident, but no one suffered from +thirst, nor had we much inclination to drink, that desire, perhaps, +being satisfied through the skin. The little sleep we got was in the +midst of water, and we constantly awoke with severe cramps and pains in +our bones. This morning I served about two tea-spoonfuls of rum to each +person, and the allowance of bread and water, as usual. At noon the sun +broke out, and revived every one. I found we were in latitude 14 deg. 49' +S; longitude made 25 deg. 46' W; course S 88 deg. W; distance 75 miles. + +[Sidenote: Thursday 21.] + +Thursday, May the 21st. Fresh gales, and heavy showers of rain. Wind E N +E. + +Our distresses were now very great, and we were so covered with rain and +salt water, that we could scarcely see. Sleep, though we longed for it, +afforded no comfort: for my own part, I almost lived without it: we +suffered extreme cold, and every one dreaded the approach of night. +About two o'clock in the morning we were overwhelmed with a deluge of +rain. It fell so heavy that we were afraid it would fill the boat, and +were obliged to bale with all our might. At dawn of day, I served a +large allowance of rum. Towards noon the rain abated and the sun shone, +but we were miserably cold and wet, the sea breaking so constantly over +us, that, notwithstanding the heavy rain, we had not been able to add to +our stock of fresh water. The usual allowance of one 25th of a pound of +bread and water was served at evening, morning, and noon. Latitude, by +observation, 14 deg. 29' S, and longitude made, by account, from Tofoa, 27 deg. +25' W; course, since yesterday noon, N 78 deg. W, 99 miles. I now considered +myself on a meridian with the east part of New Guinea, and about 65 +leagues distant from the coast of New Holland. + +[Sidenote: Friday 22.] + +Friday, May the 22nd. Strong gales from E S E to S S E, a high sea, and +dark dismal night. + +Our situation this day was extremely calamitous. We were obliged to take +the course of the sea, running right before it, and watching with the +utmost care, as the least error in the helm would in a moment have been +our destruction. The sea was continually breaking all over us; but, as +we suffered not such cold as when wet with the rain, I only served the +common allowance of bread and water. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 22.] + +At noon it blew very hard, and the foam of the sea kept running over our +stern and quarters; I however got propped up, and made an observation of +the latitude, in 14 deg. 17' S; course N 85 deg. W; distance 130 miles; +longitude made 29 deg. 38' west. + +[Sidenote: Saturday 23.] + +Saturday, May the 23d. Strong gales with very hard squalls, and rain; +wind S E, and S S E. + +The misery we suffered this day exceeded the preceding. The night was +dreadful. The sea flew over us with great force, and kept us baling with +horror and anxiety. At dawn of day I found every one in a most +distressed condition, and I now began to fear that another such a night +would put an end to the lives of several who seemed no longer able to +support such sufferings. Every one complained of severe pains in their +bones; but these were alleviated, in some degree, by an allowance of two +tea-spoonfuls of rum; after drinking which, having wrung our cloaths, +and taken our breakfast of bread and water, we became a little +refreshed. + +Towards noon it became fair weather; but with very little abatement of +the gale, and the sea remained equally high. With great difficulty I +observed the latitude to be 13 deg. 44' S; course N 74 deg. W; distance 116 +miles since yesterday; longitude made 31 deg. 32' W from Tofoa. + +[Sidenote: Sunday 24.] + +Sunday, May the 24th. Fresh gales and fine weather; wind S S E and S. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 24.] + +Towards the evening the weather looked much better, which rejoiced all +hands, so that they eat their scanty allowance with more satisfaction +than for some time past. The night also was fair; but, being always wet +with the sea, we suffered much from the cold. A fine morning, I had the +pleasure to see, produce some chearful countenances. Towards noon the +weather improved, and, the first time for 15 days past, we found a +little warmth from the sun. We stripped, and hung our cloaths up to dry, +which were by this time become so thread-bare, that they would not keep +out either wet or cold. + +At noon I observed in latitude 13 deg. 33' S; longitude, by account, from +Tofoa 33 deg. 28' W; course N 84 deg. W; distance 114 miles. With the usual +allowance of bread and water for dinner, I served an ounce of pork to +each person. + +[Sidenote: Monday 25.] + +Monday, May the 25th. Fresh gales and fair weather. Wind S S E. + +This afternoon we had many birds about us, which are never seen far from +land, such as boobies and noddies. + +[Sidenote: Allowance lessened.] + +About three o'clock the sea began to run fair, and we shipped but little +water, I therefore determined to know the exact quantity of bread I had +left; and on examining found, according to my present issues, sufficient +for 29 days allowance. In the course of this time I hoped to be at +Timor; but, as that was very uncertain, and perhaps after all we might +be obliged to go to Java, I determined to proportion my issues to six +weeks. I was apprehensive that this would be ill received, and that it +would require my utmost resolution to enforce it; for, small as the +quantity was which I intended to take away, for our future good, yet it +might appear to my people like robbing them of life, and some, who were +less patient than their companions, I expected would very ill brook it. +I however represented it so essentially necessary to guard against +delays in our voyage by contrary winds, or other causes, promising to +enlarge upon the allowance as we got on, that it was readily agreed to. +I therefore fixed, that every person should receive one 25th of a pound +of bread for breakfast, and one 25th of a pound for dinner; so that by +omitting the proportion for supper, I had 43 days allowance. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 25.] + +At noon some noddies came so near to us, that one of them was caught by +hand. This bird is about the size of a small pigeon. I divided it, with +its entrails, into 18 portions, and by the method of, Who shall have +this[*]? it was distributed with the allowance of bread and water for +dinner, and eat up bones and all, with salt water for sauce. I observed +the latitude 13 deg. 32' S; longitude made 35 deg. 19' W; and course N 89 deg. W; +distance 108 miles. + +[*] One person turns his back on the object that is to be divided: +another then points separately to the portions, at each of them asking +aloud, "Who shall have this?" to which the first answers by naming +somebody. This impartial method of division gives every man an equal +chance of the best share. + +[Sidenote: Tuesday 26.] + +Tuesday, May the 26th. Fresh gales at S S E, and fine weather. + +In the evening we saw several boobies flying so near to us, that we +caught one of them by hand. This bird is as large as a good duck; like +the noddy, it has received its name from seamen, for suffering itself to +be caught on the masts and yards of ships. They are the most presumptive +proofs of being in the neighbourhood of land of any sea-fowl we are +acquainted with. I directed the bird to be killed for supper, and the +blood to be given to three of the people who were the most distressed +for want of food. The body, with the entrails, beak, and feet, I divided +into 18 shares, and with an allowance of bread, which I made a merit of +granting, we made a good supper, compared with our usual fare. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 26.] + +In the morning we caught another booby, so that Providence seemed to be +relieving our wants in a very extraordinary manner. Towards noon we +passed a great many pieces of the branches of trees, some of which +appeared to have been no long time in the water. I had a good +observation for the latitude, and found my situation to be in 13 deg. 41' +S; my longitude, by account, from Tofoa, 37 deg. 13' W; course S 85 deg. W, 112 +miles. Every person was now overjoyed at the addition to their dinner, +which I distributed as I had done in the evening; giving the blood to +those who were the most in want of food. + +To make our bread a little savoury we frequently dipped it in salt +water; but for my own part I generally broke mine into small pieces, and +eat it in my allowance of water, out of a cocoa-nut shell, with a spoon, +economically avoiding to take too large a piece at a time, so that I was +as long at dinner as if it had been a much more plentiful meal. + +[Sidenote: Wednesday 27.] + +Wednesday, May the 27th. Fresh breezes south-easterly, and fine weather. + +The weather was now serene, but unhappily we found ourselves unable to +bear the sun's heat; many of us suffering a languor and faintness, which +made life indifferent. We were, however, so fortunate as to catch two +boobies to-day; their stomachs contained several flying-fish and small +cuttlefish, all of which I saved to be divided for dinner. + +We passed much drift wood, and saw many birds; I therefore did not +hesitate to pronounce that we were near the reefs of New Holland, and +assured every one I would make the coast without delay, in the parallel +we were in, and range the reef till I found an opening, through which we +might get into smooth water, and pick up some supplies. From my +recollection of captain Cook's survey of this coast, I considered the +direction of it to be N W, and I was therefore satisfied that, with the +wind to the southward of E, I could always clear any dangers. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 27.] + +At noon I observed in latitude 13 deg. 26' S; course since yesterday N 82 deg. +W; distance 109 miles; longitude made 39 deg. 4' W. After writing my +account, I divided the two birds with their entrails, and the contents +of their maws, into 18 portions, and, as the prize was a very valuable +one, it was divided as before, by calling out Who shall have this? so +that to-day, with the allowance of a 25th of a pound of bread at +breakfast, and another at dinner, with the proportion of water, I was +happy to see that every person thought he had feasted. + +[Sidenote: Thursday 28.] + +Thursday, May the 28th. Fresh breezes and fair weather; wind E S E and +E. + +In the evening we saw a gannet; and the clouds remained so fixed in the +west, that I had little doubt of our being near to New Holland; and +every person, after taking his allowance of water for supper, began to +divert himself with conversing on the probability of what we should +find. + +At one in the morning the person at the helm heard the sound of +breakers, and I no sooner lifted up my head, than I saw them close under +our lee, not more than a quarter of a mile distant from us. I +immediately hauled on a wind to the N N E, and in ten minutes time we +could neither see nor hear them. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 28.] + +I have already mentioned my reason for making New Holland so far to the +southward; for I never doubted of numerous openings in the reef, through +which I could have access to the shore: and, knowing the inclination of +the coast to be to the N W, and the wind mostly to the southward of E, I +could with ease range such a barrier of reefs till I should find a +passage, which now became absolutely necessary, without a moment's loss +of time. The idea of getting into smooth water, and finding +refreshments, kept my people's spirits up: their joy was very great +after we had got clear of the breakers, to which we had been much +nearer than I thought was possible to be before we saw them. + +In the morning, at day-light, I bore away again for the reefs, and saw +them by nine o'clock. The sea broke furiously over every part, and I had +no sooner got near to them, than the wind came at E, so that we could +only lie along the line of the breakers, within which we saw the water +so smooth, that every person already anticipated the heart-felt +satisfaction he would receive, as soon as we could get within them. But +I now found we were embayed, for I could not lie clear with my sails, +the wind having backed against us, and the sea set in so heavy towards +the reef that our situation was become dangerous. We could effect but +little with the oars, having scarce strength to pull them; and it was +becoming every minute more and more probable that we should be obliged +to attempt pushing over the reef, in case we could not pull off. Even +this I did not despair of effecting with success, when happily we +discovered a break in the reef, about one mile from us, and at the same +time an island of a moderate height within it, nearly in the same +direction, bearing W 1/2 N. I entered the passage with a strong stream +running to the westward; and found it about a quarter of a mile broad, +with every appearance of deep water. + +On the outside, the reef inclined to the N E for a few miles, and from +thence to the N W; on the south side of the entrance, it inclined to the +S S W as far as I could see it; and I conjecture that a similar passage +to this which we now entered, may be found near the breakers that I +first discovered, which are 23 miles S of this channel. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 28.] + +I did not recollect what latitude Providential channel[*] lies in, but +I considered it to be within a few miles of this, which is situate in +12 deg. 51' S latitude. + +[*] Providential Channel is in 12 deg. 34' S, longitude 143 deg. 33' E. + +Being now happily within the reefs, and in smooth water, I endeavoured +to keep near them to try for fish; but the tide set us to the N W; I +therefore bore away in that direction, and, having promised to land on +the first convenient spot we could find, all our past hardships seemed +already to be forgotten. + +At noon I had a good observation, by which our latitude was 12 deg. 46' S, +whence the foregoing situations may be considered as determined with +some exactness. The island first seen bore W S W five leagues. This, +which I have called the island Direction, will in fair weather always +shew the channel, from which it bears due W, and may be seen as soon as +the reefs, from a ship's mast-head: it lies in the latitude of 12 deg. 51' +S. These, however, are marks too small for a ship to hit, unless it can +hereafter be ascertained that passages through the reef are numerous +along the coast, which I am inclined to think they are, and then there +would be little risk if the wind was not directly on the shore. + +My longitude, made by dead reckoning, from the island Tofoa to our +passage through the reef, is 40 deg. 10' W. Providential channel, I imagine, +must lie very nearly under the same meridian with our passage; by which +it appears we had out-run our reckoning 1 deg. 9'. + +We now returned God thanks for his gracious protection, and with much +content took our miserable allowance of a 25th of a pound of bread, and +a quarter of a pint of water, for dinner. + +[Sidenote: Friday 29.] + +Friday, May the 29th. Moderate breezes and fine weather, wind E S E. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 29.] + +As we advanced within the reefs, the coast began to shew itself very +distinctly, with a variety of high and low land; some parts of which +were covered with wood. In our way towards the shore we fell in with a +point of a reef, which is connected with that towards the sea, and here +I came to a grapnel, and tried to catch fish, but had no success. The +island Direction now bore S three or four leagues. Two islands lay about +four miles to the W by N, and appeared eligible for a resting-place, if +nothing more; but on my approach to the first I found it only a heap of +stones, and its size too inconsiderable to shelter the boat. I therefore +proceeded to the next, which was close to it and towards the main, +where, on the N W side, I found a bay and a fine sandy point to land at. +Our distance was about a quarter of a mile from a projecting part of the +main, bearing from S W by S, to N N W 3/4 W. I now landed to examine if +there were any signs of the natives being near us; but though I +discovered some old fire-places, I saw nothing to alarm me for our +situation during the night. Every one was anxious to find something to +eat, and I soon heard that there were oysters on the rocks, for the tide +was out; but it was nearly dark, and only a few could be gathered. I +determined therefore to wait till the morning, to know how to proceed, +and I consented that one half of us should sleep on shore, and the other +in the boat. We would gladly have made a fire, but, as we could not +accomplish it, we took our rest for the night, which happily was calm +and undisturbed. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 29.] + +The dawn of day brought greater strength and spirits to us than I +expected; for, notwithstanding every one was very weak, there appeared +strength sufficient remaining to make me conceive the most favourable +hopes of our being able to surmount the difficulties we might yet have +to encounter. + +As soon as I saw that there were not any natives immediately near us, I +sent out parties in search of supplies, while others were putting the +boat in order, that I might be ready to go to sea in case any unforeseen +cause might make it necessary. The first object of this work, that +demanded our attention, was the rudder: one of the gudgeons had come +out, in the course of the night, and was lost. This, if it had happened +at sea, would probably have been the cause of our perishing, as the +management of the boat could not have been so nicely preserved as these +very heavy seas required. I had often expressed my fears of this +accident, and, that we might be prepared for it, had taken the +precaution to have grummets fixed on each quarter of the boat for oars; +but even our utmost readiness in using them, I fear, would not have +saved us. It appears, therefore, a providential circumstance, that it +happened at this place, and was in our power to remedy the defect; for +by great good luck we found a large staple in the boat that answered the +purpose. + +The parties were now returned, highly rejoiced at having found plenty of +oysters and fresh water. I also had made a fire, by help of a small +magnifying glass, that I always carried about me, to read off the +divisions of my sextants; and, what was still more fortunate, among the +few things which had been thrown into the boat and saved, was a piece of +brimstone and a tinder-box, so that I secured fire for the future. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 29.] + +One of my people had been so provident as to bring away with him a +copper pot: it was by being in possession of this article that I was +enabled to make a proper use of the supply we found, for, with a +mixture of bread and a little pork, I made a stew that might have been +relished by people of more delicate appetites, of which each person +received a full pint. + +The general complaints of disease among us, were a dizziness in the +head, great weakness of the joints, and violent tenesmus, most of us +having had no evacuation by stool since we left the ship. I had +constantly a severe pain at my stomach; but none of our complaints were +alarming; on the contrary, every one retained marks of strength, that, +with a mind possessed of any fortitude, could bear more fatigue than I +hoped we had to undergo in our voyage to Timor. + +As I would not allow the people to expose themselves to the heat of the +sun, it being near noon, every one took his allotment of earth, shaded +by the bushes, for a short sleep. + +The oysters we found grew so fast to the rocks that it was with +difficulty they could be broke off, and at last we discovered it to be +the most expeditious way to open them where they were found. They were +very sizeable, and well tasted, and gave us great relief. To add to this +happy circumstance, in the hollow of the land there grew some wire +grass, which indicated a moist situation. On forcing a stick, about +three feet long, into the ground, we found water, and with little +trouble dug a well, which produced as much as we were in need of. It was +very good, but I could not determine if it was a spring or not. Our +wants made it not necessary to make the well deep, for it flowed as fast +as we emptied it; which, as the soil was apparently too loose to retain +water from the rains, renders it probable to be a spring. It lies about +200 yards to the S E of a point in the S W part of the island. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 29.] + +I found evident signs of the natives resorting to this island; for, +besides fire-places, I saw two miserable wigwams, having only one side +loosely covered. We found a pointed stick, about three feet long, with a +slit in the end of it, to sling stones with, the same as the natives of +Van Diemen's land use. + +The track of some animal was very discernible, and Mr. Nelson agreed +with me that it was the Kanguroo; but how these animals can get from the +main I know not, unless brought over by the natives to breed, that they +may take them with more ease, and render a supply of food certain to +them; as on the continent the catching of them may be precarious, or +attended with great trouble, in so large an extent of country. + +The island may be about two miles in circuit; it is a high lump of rocks +and stones covered with wood; but the trees are small, the soil, which +is very indifferent and sandy, being barely sufficient to produce them. +The trees that came within our knowledge were the manchineal and a +species of purow: also some palm-trees, the tops of which we cut down, +and the soft interior part or heart of them was so palatable that it +made a good addition to our mess. Mr. Nelson discovered some fern-roots, +which I thought might be good roasted, as a substitute for bread, but it +proved a very poor one: it however was very good in its natural state to +allay thirst, and on that account I directed a quantity to be collected +to take into the boat. Many pieces of cocoa-nut shells and husk were +found about the shore, but we could find no cocoa-nut trees, neither did +I see any like them on the main. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 29.] + +I had cautioned every one not to touch any kind of berry or fruit that +they might find; yet they were no sooner out of my sight than they +began to make free with three different kinds, that grew all over the +island, eating without any reserve. The symptoms of having eaten too +much, began at last to frighten same of them; but on questioning others, +who had taken a more moderate allowance, their minds were a little +quieted. The others, however, became equally alarmed in their turn, +dreading that such symptoms would come on, and that they were all +poisoned, so that they regarded each other with the strongest marks of +apprehension, uncertain what would be the issue of their imprudence. +Happily the fruit proved wholesome and good. One sort grew on a small +delicate kind of vine; they were the size of a large gooseberry, and +very like in substance, but had only a sweet taste; the skin was a pale +red, streaked with yellow the long way of the fruit: it was pleasant and +agreeable. Another kind grew on bushes, like that which is called the +sea-side grape in the West Indies; but the fruit was very different, and +more like elder-berries, growing in clusters in the same manner. The +third sort was a black berry, not in such plenty as the others, and +resembled a bullace, or large kind of sloe, both in size and taste. +Seeing these fruits eaten by the birds made me consider them fit for +use, and those who had already tried the experiment, not finding any bad +effect, made it a certainty that we might eat of them without danger. + +Wild pigeons, parrots, and other birds, were about the summit of the +island, but, as I had no fire-arms, relief of that kind was not to be +expected, unless I met with some unfrequented spot where we might take +them with our hands. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 29.] + +On the south side of the island, and about half a mile from the well, a +small run of water was found; but, as its source was not traced, I know +nothing more of it. + +The shore of this island is very rocky, except the part we landed at, +and here I picked up many pieces of pumice-stone. On the part of the +main next to us were several sandy bays, but at low-water they became an +extensive rocky flat. The country had rather a barren appearance, except +in a few places where it was covered with wood. A remarkable range of +rocks lay a few miles to the S W, or a high peaked hill terminated the +coast towards the sea, with other high lands and islands to the +southward. A high fair cape showed the direction of the coast to the N +W, about seven leagues, and two small isles lay three or four leagues to +the northward. + +I saw a few bees or wasps, several lizards, and the blackberry bushes +were full of ants nests, webbed as a spider's, but so close and compact +as not to admit the rain. + +A trunk of a tree, about 50 feet long, lay on the beach; from whence I +conclude a heavy sea runs in here with the northerly winds. + +This being the day of the restoration of king Charles the Second, and +the name not being inapplicable to our present situation (for we were +restored to fresh life and strength), I named this Restoration Island; +for I thought it probable that captain Cook might not have taken notice +of it. The other names I have presumed to give the different parts of +the coast, will be only to show my route a little more distinctly. + +At noon I found the latitude of the island to be 12 deg. 39' S; our course +having been N 66 deg. W; distance 18 miles from yesterday noon. + +[Sidenote: Saturday 30.] + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 30.] + +Saturday, May the 30th. Very fine weather, and E S E winds. This +afternoon I sent parties out again to gather oysters, with which and +some of the inner part of the palm-top, we made another good stew for +supper, each person receiving a full pint and a half; but I refused +bread to this meal, for I considered our wants might yet be very great, +and as such I represented the necessity of saving our principal support +whenever it was in our power. + +At night we again divided, and one half of us slept on shore by a good +fire. In the morning I discovered a visible alteration in every one for +the better, and I sent them away again to gather oysters. I had now only +two pounds of pork left. This article, which I could not keep under lock +and key as I did the bread, had been pilfered by some inconsiderate +person, but every one most solemnly denied it; I therefore resolved to +put it out of their power for the future, by sharing what remained for +our dinner. While the party was out getting oysters, I got the boat in +readiness for sea, and filled all our water vessels, which amounted to +nearly 60 gallons. + +The party being returned, dinner was soon ready, and every one had as +good an allowance as they had for supper; for with the pork I gave an +allowance of bread; as I was determined forthwith to push on. As it was +not yet noon, I told every one that an exertion should be made to gather +as many oysters as possible for a sea store, as I was determined to sail +in the afternoon. + +At noon I again observed the latitude 12 deg. 39' S; it was then high-water, +the tide had risen three feet, but I could not be certain which way the +flood came from. I deduce the time of high-water at full and change to +be ten minutes past seven in the morning. + +[Sidenote: Sunday 31.] + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 31.] + +Sunday, May the 31st. Early in the afternoon, the people returned with +the few oysters they had time to pick up, and every thing was put into +the boat. I then examined the quantity of bread remaining, and found 38 +days allowance, according to the last mode of issuing a 25th of a pound +at breakfast and at dinner. + +Fair weather, and moderate breezes at E S E and S E. + +Being all ready for sea, I directed every person to attend prayers, and +by four o'clock we were preparing to embark; when twenty natives +appeared, running and holloaing to us, on the opposite shore. They were +armed with a spear or lance, and a short weapon which they carried in +their left hand: they made signs for us to come to them. On the top of +the hills we saw the heads of many more; whether these were their wives +and children, or others who waited for our landing, until which they +meant not to show themselves, lest we might be intimidated, I cannot +say; but, as I found we were discovered to be on the coast, I thought it +prudent to make the best of my way, for fear of canoes; though, from the +accounts of captain Cook, the chance was that there were very few or +none of any consequence. I passed these people as near as I could, which +was within a quarter of a mile; they were naked, and apparently black, +and their hair or wool bushy and short. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 31.] + +I directed my course within two small islands that lie to the north of +Restoration Island, passing between them and the main land, towards Fair +Cape, with a strong tide in my favour; so that I was abreast of it by +eight o'clock. The coast I had passed was high and woody. As I could see +no land without Fair Cape, I concluded that the coast inclined to the N +W and W N W, which was agreeable to my recollection of captain Cook's +survey. I therefore steered more towards the W; but by eleven o'clock at +night I found myself mistaken: for we met with low land, which inclined +to the N E; so that at three o'clock in the morning I found we were +embayed, which obliged us to stand back to the southward. + +At day-break I was exceedingly surprised to find the appearance of the +country all changed, as if in the course of the night I had been +transported to another part of the world; for we had now a miserable low +sandy coast in view, with very little verdure, or any thing to indicate +that it was at all habitable to a human being, if I except some patches +of small trees or brush-wood. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 31.] + +I had many small islands in view to the N E, about six miles distant. +The E part of the main bore N four miles, and Fair Cape S S E five or +six leagues. I took the channel between the nearest island and the main +land, about one mile apart, leaving all the islands on the starboard +side. Some of these were very pretty spots, covered with wood, and well +situated for fishing; large shoals of fish were about us, but we could +not catch any. As I was passing this strait we saw another party of +Indians, seven in number, running towards us, shouting and making signs +for us to land. Some of them waved green branches of the bushes which +were near them, as a sign of friendship; but there were some of their +other motions less friendly. A larger party we saw a little farther off, +and coming towards us. I therefore determined not to land, though I +wished much to have had some intercourse with these people; for which +purpose I beckoned to them to come near to me, and laid the boat close +to the rocks; but not one would come within 200 yards of us. They were +armed in the same manner as those I had seen from Restoration Island, +were stark naked, and appeared to be jet black, with short bushy hair +or wool, and in every respect the same people. An island of good height +now bore N 1/2 W, four miles from us, at which I resolved to see what +could be got, and from thence to take a look at the coast. At this isle +I landed about eight o'clock in the morning. The shore was rocky, with +some sandy beaches within the rocks: the water, however, was smooth, and +I landed without difficulty. I sent two parties out, one to the +northward, and the other to the southward, to seek for supplies, and +others I ordered to stay by the boat. On this occasion their fatigue and +weakness so far got the better of their sense of duty, that some of them +began to mutter who had done most, and declared they would rather be +without their dinner than go in search of it. One person, in particular, +went so far as to tell me, with a mutinous look, he was as good a man as +myself. It was not possible for me to judge where this might have an +end, if not stopped in time; I therefore determined to strike a final +blow at it, and either to preserve my command, or die in the attempt: +and, seizing a cutlass, I ordered him to take hold of another and defend +himself; on which he called out I was going to kill him, and began to +make concessions. I did not allow this to interfere further with the +harmony of the boat's crew, and every thing soon became quiet. + +The parties continued collecting what could be found, which consisted of +some fine oysters and clams, and a few small dog-fish that were caught +in the holes of the rocks. We also found about two tons of rain-water in +the hollow of the rocks, on the north part of the island, so that of +this essential article we were again so happy as not to be in want. + +[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 31.] + +After regulating the mode of proceeding, I set off for the highest part +of the island, to see and consider of my route for the night. To my +surprise I could see no more of the main than I did from below, it +extending only from S 1/2 E, four miles, to W by N, about three leagues, +full of sand-hills. Besides the isles to the E S E and south, that I had +seen before, I could only discover a small key N W by N. As this was +considerably farther from the main than where I was at present, I +resolved to get there by night, it being a more secure resting-place; +for I was here open to an attack, if the Indians had canoes, as they +undoubtedly observed my landing. My mind being made up on this point, I +returned, taking a particular look at the spot I was on, which I found +only to produce a few bushes and coarse grass, and the extent of the +whole not two miles in circuit. On the north side, in a sandy bay, I saw +an old canoe, about 33 feet long, lying bottom upwards, and half buried +in the beach. It was made of three pieces, the bottom entire, to which +the sides were sewed in the common way. It had a sharp projecting prow +rudely carved, in resemblance of the head of a fish; the extreme breadth +was about three feet, and I imagine it was capable of carrying 20 men. + +At noon the parties were all returned, but had found difficulty in +gathering the oysters, from their close adherence to the rocks, and the +clams were scarce: I therefore saw, that it would be of little use to +remain longer in this place, as we should not be able to collect more +than we could eat; nor could any tolerable sea-store be expected, unless +we fell in with a greater plenty. I named this Sunday Island: it lies N +by W 3/4 W from Restoration Island; the latitude, by a good observation, +11 deg. 58' S. + +[Sidenote: JUNE. Monday 1.] + +Monday, June the 1st. Fresh breezes and fair weather, ending with a +fresh gale. Wind S E by S. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 1.] + +At two o'clock in the afternoon, we dined; each person having a full +pint and a half of stewed oysters and clams, thickened with small beans, +which Mr. Nelson informed us were a species of Dolichos. Having eaten +heartily, and taken the water we were in want of, I only waited to +determine the time of high-water, which I found to be at three o'clock, +and the rise of the tide about five feet. According to this it is +high-water on the full and change at 19 minutes past 9 in the morning; +but here I observed the flood to come from the southward, though at +Restoration Island, I thought it came from the northward. I think +captain Cook mentions that he found great irregularity in the set of the +flood on this coast. + +I now sailed for the key which I had seen in the N W by N, giving the +name of Sunday Island to the place I left; we arrived just at dark, but +found it so surrounded by a reef of rocks, that I could not land without +danger of staving the boat; and on that account I came to a grapnel for +the night. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 1.] + +At dawn of day we got on shore, and tracked the boat into shelter; for +the wind blowing fresh without, and the ground being rocky, I was afraid +to trust her at a grapnel, lest she might be blown to sea: I was, +therefore, obliged to let her ground in the course of the ebb. From +appearances, I expected that if we remained till night we should meet +with turtle, as we had already discovered recent tracks of them. +Innumerable birds of the noddy kind made this island their +resting-place; so that I had reason to flatter myself with hopes of +getting supplies in greater abundance than it had hitherto been in my +power. The situation was at least four leagues distant from the main. We +were on the north-westernmost of four small keys, which were surrounded +by a reef of rocks connected by sand-banks, except between the two +northernmost; and there likewise it was dry at low water; the whole +forming a lagoon island, into which the tide flowed: at this entrance I +kept the boat. + +As usual, I sent parties away in search of supplies, but, to our great +disappointment, we could only get a few clams and some dolichos: with +these, and the oysters we had brought from Sunday Island, I made up a +mess for dinner, with an addition of a small quantity of bread. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 1.] + +Towards noon, Mr. Nelson, and his party, who had been to the easternmost +key, returned; but himself in such a weak condition, that he was obliged +to be supported by two men. His complaint was a violent heat in his +bowels, a loss of sight, much drought, and an inability to walk. This I +found was occasioned by his being unable to support the heat of the sun, +and that, when he was fatigued and faint, instead of retiring into the +shade to rest, he had continued to do more than his strength was equal +to. It was a great satisfaction to me to find, that he had no fever; and +it was now that the little wine, which I had so carefully saved became +of real use. I gave it in very small quantities, with some small pieces +of bread soaked in it; and, having pulled off his cloaths, and laid him +under some shady bushes, he began to recover. The boatswain and +carpenter also were ill, and complained of head-ach, and sickness of the +stomach; others, who had not had any evacuation by stool, became +shockingly distressed with the tenesmus; so that there were but few +without complaints. An idea now prevailed, that their illness was +occasioned by eating the dolichos, and some were so much alarmed that +they thought themselves poisoned. Myself, however, and some others, who +had eaten of them, were yet very well; but the truth was, that all those +who were complaining, except Mr. Nelson, had gorged themselves with a +large quantity of raw beans, and Mr. Nelson informed me, that they were +constantly teazing him, whenever a berry was found, to know if it was +good to eat; so that it would not have been surprizing if many of them +had been really poisoned. + +Our dinner was not so well relished as at Sunday Island, because we had +mixed the dolichos with our stew. The oysters and soup, however, were +eaten by every one, except Mr. Nelson, whom I fed with a few small +pieces of bread soaked in half a glass of wine, and he continued to +mend. + +In my walk round the island, I found several cocoa-nut shells, the +remains of an old wigwam, and the backs of two turtle, but no sign of +any quadruped. One of my people found three sea-fowl's eggs. + +As is common on such spots, the soil is little other than sand, yet it +produced small toa-trees, and some others, that we were not acquainted +with. There were fish in the lagoon, but we could not catch any. As our +wants, therefore, were not likely to be supplied here, not even with +water for our daily expence, I determined to sail in the morning, after +trying our success in the night for turtle and birds. A quiet night's +rest also, I conceived, would be of essential service to those who were +unwell. + +From the wigwam and turtle-shell being found, it is certain that the +natives sometimes resort to this place, and have canoes: but I did not +apprehend that we ran any risk by remaining here. I directed our fire, +however, to be made in the thicket, that we might not be discovered in +the night. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 1.] + +At noon, I observed the latitude of this island to be 11 deg. 47' S. The +main land extended towards the N W, and was full of white sand-hills: +another small island lay within us, bearing W by N 1/4 N, three leagues +distant. My situation being very low, I could see nothing of the reef +towards the sea. + +[Sidenote: Tuesday 2.] + +Tuesday, June the 2d. The first part of this day we had some light +showers of rain; the latter part was fair, wind from the S E, blowing +fresh. + +Rest was now so much wanted, that the afternoon was advantageously spent +in sleep. There were, however, a few not disposed to it, and those I +employed in dressing some clams to take with us for the next day's +dinner; others we cut up in slices to dry, which I knew was the most +valuable supply we could find here. But, contrary to our expectation, +they were very scarce. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 2.] + +Towards evening, I cautioned every one against making too large a fire, +or suffering it after dark to blaze up. Mr. Samuel and Mr. Peckover had +the superintendence of this business, while I was strolling about the +beach to observe if I thought it could be seen from the main. I was just +satisfied that it could not, when on a sudden the island appeared all in +a blaze, that might have been seen at a much more considerable distance. +I ran to learn the cause, and found it was occasioned by the imprudence +and obstinacy of one of the party, who, in my absence, had insisted on +having a fire to himself; in making which the flames caught the +neighbouring grass and rapidly spread. This misconduct might have +produced very serious consequences, by discovering our situation to the +natives; for, if they had attacked us, we must inevitably have fallen a +sacrifice, as we had neither arms nor strength to oppose an enemy. Thus +the relief which I expected from a little sleep was totally lost, and I +anxiously waited for the flowing of the tide, that we might proceed to +sea. + +I found it high-water at half past five this evening, whence I deduce +the time, on the full and change of the moon, to be 58' past 10 in the +morning: the rise is nearly five feet. I could not observe the set of +the flood; but imagine it comes from the southward, and that I have been +mistaken at Restoration Island, as I find the time of high-water +gradually later as we advance to the northward. + +At Restoration Island, high water, full and change, 7^h 10' +Sunday Island, 9 19 +Here, 10 58 + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 2.] + +After eight o'clock, Mr. Samuel and Mr. Peckover went out to watch for +turtle, and three men went to the east key to endeavour to catch birds. +All the others complaining of being sick, took their rest, except Mr. +Hayward and Mr. Elphinston, who I directed to keep watch. About midnight +the bird party returned, with only twelve noddies, a bird I have already +described to be about the size of a pigeon: but if it had not been for +the folly and obstinacy of one of the party, who separated from the +other two, and disturbed the birds, they might have caught a great +number. I was so much provoked at my plans being thus defeated, that I +gave the offender[*] a good beating. I now went in search of the +turtling party, who had taken great pains, but without success. This, +however, did not surprise me, as it was not to be expected that turtle +would come near us after the noise which was made at the beginning of +the evening in extinguishing the fire. I therefore desired them to come +back, but they requested to stay a little longer, as they still hoped to +find some before day-light: they, however, returned by three o'clock, +without any reward for their labour. + +[*] Robert Lamb.--This man, when he came to Java, acknowledged he had +eaten nine birds on the key, after he separated from the other two. + +The birds we half dressed, which, with a few clams, made the whole of +the supply procured here. I tied up a few gilt buttons and some pieces +of iron to a tree, for any of the natives that might come after us; and, +happily finding my invalids much better for their night's rest, I got +every one into the boat, and departed by dawn of day. Wind at S E; +course to the N by W. + +We had scarcely ran two leagues to the northward, when the sea suddenly +became rough, which not having experienced since we were within the +reefs, I concluded to be occasioned by an open channel to the ocean. +Soon afterwards we met with a large shoal, on which were two sandy keys; +between these and two others, four miles to the west, I passed on to the +northward, the sea still continuing to be rough. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 2.] + +Towards noon, I fell in with six other keys, most of which produced some +small trees and brush-wood. These formed a pleasing contrast with the +main land we had passed, which was full of sand-hills. The country +continued hilly, and the northernmost land, the same which we saw from +the lagoon island, appeared like downs, sloping towards the sea. To the +southward of this is a flat-topped hill, which, on account of its shape, +I called Pudding-pan hill, and a little to the northward two other +hills, which we called the Paps; and here was a small tract of country +without sand, the eastern part of which forms a cape, whence the coast +inclines to the N W by N. + +At noon I observed in the latitude of 11 deg. 18' S, the cape bearing W, +distant ten miles. Five small keys bore from N E to S E, the nearest of +them about two miles distant, and a low sandy key between us and the +cape bore W, distant four miles. My course from the Lagoon Island N 1/2 +W, distant 30 miles. + +I am sorry it was not in my power to obtain a sufficient knowledge of +the depth of water; for in our situation nothing could be undertaken +that might have occasioned delay. It may however be understood, that, to +the best of my judgment, from appearances, a ship may pass wherever I +have omitted to represent danger. + +I divided six birds, and issued one 25th of a pound of bread, with half +a pint of water, to each person for dinner, and I gave half a glass of +wine to Mr. Nelson, who was now so far recovered as to require no other +indulgence. + +The gunner, when he left the ship, brought his watch with him, by which +we had regulated our time till to-day, when unfortunately it stopped; so +that noon, sun-rise, and sun-set, are the only parts of the 24 hours of +which I can speak with certainty, as to time. + +[Sidenote: Wednesday 3.] + +Wednesday, June the 3d. Fresh gales S S E and S E, and fair weather. As +we stood to the N by W this afternoon, we found more sea, which I +attributed to our receiving less shelter from the reefs to the eastward: +it is probable they do not extend so far to the N as this; at least, it +may be concluded that there is not a continued barrier to prevent +shipping having access to the shore. I observed that the stream set to +the N W, which I considered to be the flood; in some places along the +coast, we saw patches of wood. At five o'clock, steering to the N W, we +passed a large and fair inlet, into which, I imagine, is a safe and +commodious entrance; it lies in latitude 11 deg. S: about three leagues to +the northward of this is an island, at which we arrived about sun-set, +and took shelter for the night under a sandy point, which was the only +part we could land at: I was therefore under the necessity to put up +with rather a wild situation, and slept in the boat. Nevertheless I sent +a party away to see what could be got, but they returned without any +success. They saw a great number of turtle bones and shells, where the +natives had been feasting, and their last visit seemed to be of late +date. The island was covered with wood, but in other respects a lump of +rocks. We lay at a grapnel until day-light, with a very fresh gale and +cloudy weather. The main bore from S E by S to N N W 1/2 W, three +leagues; and a mountainous island, with a flat top, N by W, four or five +leagues: several others were between it and the main. The spot we were +on, which I call Turtle Island; lies in latitude, by account, 10 deg. 52' S, +and 42 miles W from Restoration Island. Abreast of it the coast has the +appearance of a sandy desert, but improves about three leagues farther +to the northward, where it terminates in a point, near to which is a +number of small islands. I sailed between these islands, where I found +no bottom at twelve fathoms; the high mountainous island with a flat +top, and four rocks to the S E of it, that I call the Brothers, being on +my starboard hand. Soon after, an extensive opening appeared in the main +land, with a number of high islands in it. I called this the Bay of +Islands. We continued steering to the N W. Several islands and keys lay +to the northward. The most northerly island was mountainous, having on +it a very high round hill; and a smaller was remarkable for a single +peaked hill. + +The coast to the northward and westward of the Bay of Islands had a very +different appearance from that to the southward. It was high and woody, +with many islands close to it, and had a very broken appearance. Among +these islands are fine bays, and convenient places for shipping. The +northernmost I call Wednesday Island: to the N W of this we fell in with +a large reef, which I believe joins a number of keys that were in sight +from the N W to the E N E. We now stood to the S W half a league, when +it was noon, and I had a good observation of the latitude in 10 deg. 31' S. +Wednesday Island bore E by S five miles; the westernmost land S W two or +three leagues; the islands to the northward, from N W by W four or five +leagues, to N E six leagues; and the reef from W to N E, distant one +mile, I now assured every one that we should be clear of New Holland in +the afternoon. + +It is impossible for me to say how far this reef may extend. It may be a +continuation, or a detached part of the range of shoals that surround +the coast: but be that as it may, I consider the mountainous islands as +separate from the shoals; and have no doubt that near them may be found +good passages for ships. But I rather recommend to those who are to pass +this strait from the eastward, to take their direction from the coast of +New Guinea: yet, I likewise think that a ship coming from the southward, +will find a fair strait in the latitude of 10 deg. S. I much wished to have +ascertained this point; but in our distressful situation, any increase +of fatigue, or loss of time, might have been attended with the most +fatal consequences. I therefore determined to pass on without delay. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 3.] + +As an addition to our dinner of bread and water, I served to each person +six oysters. + +[Sidenote: Thursday 4.] + +Thursday, June the 4th. A fresh gale at S E, and fair weather. + +At two o'clock as we were steering to the S W, towards the westernmost +part of the land in sight, we fell in with some large sand-banks that +run off from the coast. We were therefore obliged to steer to the +northward again, and, having got round them, I directed my course to the +W. + +At four o'clock, the westernmost of the islands to the northward bore N +four leagues; Wednesday island E by N five leagues; and Shoal Cape S E by +E two leagues. A small island was now seen bearing W, at which I arrived +before dark, and found that it was only a rock, where boobies resort, +for which reason I called it Booby Island. A small key also lies close +to the W part of the coast, which I have called Shoal Cape. Here +terminated the rocks and shoals of the N part of New Holland, for, +except Booby Island, we could see no land to the westward of S, after +three o'clock this afternoon. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 4.] + +I find that Booby Island was seen by Captain Cook, and, by a remarkable +coincidence of ideas, received from him the same name; but I cannot with +certainty reconcile the situation of many parts of the coast that I have +seen, to his survey. I ascribe this to the very different form in which +land appears, when seen from the unequal heights of a ship and a boat. +The chart I have given, is by no means meant to supersede that made by +Captain Cook, who had better opportunities than I had, and was in every +respect properly provided for surveying. The intention of mine is +chiefly to render the narrative more intelligible, and to shew in what +manner the coast appeared to me from an open boat. I have little doubt +that the opening, which I named the Bay of Islands, is Endeavour +Straits; and that our track was to the northward of Prince of Wales's +Isles. Perhaps, by those who shall hereafter navigate these seas, more +advantage may be derived from the possession of both our charts, than +from either singly. + +At eight o'clock in the evening, we once more launched into the open +ocean. Miserable as our situation was in every respect, I was secretly +surprised to see that it did not appear to affect any one so strongly as +myself; on the contrary, it seemed as if they had embarked on a voyage +to Timor, in a vessel sufficiently calculated for safety and +convenience. So much confidence gave me great pleasure, and I may assert +that to this cause their preservation is chiefly to be attributed; for +if any one of them had despaired, he would most probably have died +before we reached New Holland. + +I now gave every one hopes that eight or ten days might bring us to a +land of safety; and, after praying to God for a continuance of his most +gracious protection, I served an allowance of water for supper, and kept +my course to the W S W, to counteract the southerly winds, in case they +should blow strong. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 4.] + +We had been just six days on the coast of New Holland, in the course of +which we found oysters, a few clams, some birds, and water. But perhaps +a benefit nearly equal to this we received from not having fatigue in +the boat, and enjoying good rest at night. These advantages certainly +preserved our lives; for, small as the supply was, I am very sensible +how much it relieved our distresses. About this time nature would have +sunk under the extremes of hunger and fatigue. Some would have ceased to +struggle for a life that only promised wretchedness and misery; while +others, though possessed of more bodily strength, must soon have +followed their unfortunate companions. Even in our present situation, we +were most wretched spectacles; yet our fortitude and spirit remained; +every one being encouraged by the hopes of a speedy termination to his +misery. + +For my own part, wonderful as it may appear, I felt neither extreme +hunger nor thirst. My allowance contented me, knowing I could have no +more. + +I served one 25th of a pound of bread, and an allowance of water, for +breakfast, and the same for dinner, with an addition of six oysters to +each person. At noon, latitude observed 10 deg. 48' S; course since +yesterday noon S 81 W; distance 111 miles; longitude, by account, from +Shoal Cape 1 deg. 45' W. + +[Sidenote: Friday 5.] + +Friday, June the 5th. Fair weather with some showers, and a strong trade +wind at E S E. + +This day we saw a number of water-snakes, that were ringed yellow and +black, and towards noon we passed a great deal of rock-weed. Though the +weather was fair, we were constantly shipping water, and two men always +employed to bale the boat. + +At noon I observed in latitude 10 deg. 45' S; our course since yesterday W +1/4 N, 108 miles; longitude made 3 deg. 35' W. Served one 25th of a pound of +bread, and a quarter of a pint of water for breakfast; the same for +dinner, with an addition of six oysters; for supper water only. + +[Sidenote: Saturday 6.] + +Saturday, June the 6th. Fair weather, with some showers, and a fresh +gale at S E and E S E. Constantly shipping water and baling. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 6.] + +In the evening a few boobies came about us, one of which I caught with +my hand. The blood was divided among three of the men who were weakest, +but the bird I ordered to be kept for our dinner the next day. Served a +quarter of a pint of water for supper, and to some, who were most in +need, half a pint. + +In the course of the night we suffered much cold and shiverings. At +day-light, I found that some of the clams, which had been hung up to dry +for sea-store, were stolen; but every one most solemnly denied having +any knowledge of it. This forenoon we saw a gannet, a sand-lark, and +some water-snakes, which in general were from two to three feet long. + +Served the usual allowance of bread and water for breakfast, and the +same for dinner, with the bird, which I distributed in the usual way, of +Who shall have this? I determined to make Timor about the latitude of 9 deg. +30' S, or 10 deg. S. At noon I observed the latitude to be 10 deg. 19' S; course +N 77 deg. W; distance 117 miles; longitude made from the Shoal Cape, the +north part of New Holland, 5 deg. 31' W. + +[Sidenote: Sunday 7.] + +Sunday, June the 7th. Fresh gales and fair weather till eight in the +evening. The remaining part of the 24 hours squally, with much wind at S +S E and E S E, and a high sea, so that we were constantly wet and +baling. + +In the afternoon, I took an opportunity of examining again into our +store of bread, and found remaining 19 days allowance, at my former rate +of serving one 25th of a pound three times a day: therefore, as I saw +every prospect of a quick passage, I again ventured to grant an +allowance for supper, agreeable to my promise at the time it was +discontinued. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 7.] + +We passed the night miserably wet and cold, and in the morning I heard +heavy complaints of our deplorable situation. The sea was high and +breaking over us. I could only afford the allowance of bread and water +for breakfast; but for dinner I gave out an ounce of dried clams to each +person, which was all that remained. + +At noon I altered the course to the W N W, to keep more from the sea +while it blew so strong. Latitude observed 9 deg. 31' S; course N 57 deg. W; +distance 88 miles; longitude made 6 deg. 46' W. + +[Sidenote: Monday 8.] + +Monday, June the 8th. Fresh gales and squally weather, with some showers +of rain. Wind E and E S E. + +This day the sea ran very high, and we were continually wet, suffering +much cold in the night. I now remarked that Mr. Ledward, the surgeon, +and Lawrence Lebogue, an old hardy seaman, were giving way very fast. I +could only assist them by a tea-spoonful or two of wine, which I had +carefully saved, expecting such a melancholy necessity. Among most of +the others I observed more than a common inclination to sleep, which +seemed to indicate that nature was almost exhausted. + +Served the usual allowance of bread and water at supper, breakfast, and +dinner. Saw several gannets. + +At noon I observed in 8 deg. 45' S; course W N W 1/4 W, 106 miles; longitude +made 8 deg. 23' W. + +[Sidenote: Tuesday 9.] + +Tuesday, June the 9th. Wind S E. The weather being moderate, I steered W +by S. + +[Sidenote: 1789 JUNE 9.] + +At four in the afternoon we caught a small dolphin, the first relief of +the kind we obtained. I issued about two ounces to each person, +including the offals, and saved the remainder for dinner the next day. +Towards evening the wind freshened, and it blew strong all night, so +that we shipped much water, and suffered greatly from the wet and cold. +At day-light, as usual, I heard much complaining, which my own feelings +convinced me was too well founded. I gave the surgeon and Lebogue a +little wine, but I could give no farther relief, than assurances that a +very few days longer, at our present fine rate of sailing, would bring +us to Timor. + +Gannets, boobies, men of war and tropic birds, were constantly about us. +Served the usual allowance of bread and water, and at noon dined on the +remains of the dolphin, which amounted to about an ounce per man. I +observed the latitude to be 9 deg. 9' S; longitude made 10 deg. 8' W; course +since yesterday noon S 76 deg. W; distance 107 miles. + +[Sidenote: Wednesday 10.] + +Wednesday, June the 10th. Wind E S E. Fresh gales and fair weather, but +a continuance of much sea, which, by breaking almost constantly over the +boat, made us miserably wet, and we had much cold to endure in the +night. + +This afternoon I suffered great sickness from the oily nature of part of +the stomach of the fish, which had fallen to my share at dinner. At +sun-set I served an allowance of bread and water for supper. In the +morning, after a very bad night, I could see an alteration for the worse +in more than half my people. The usual allowance was served for +breakfast and dinner. At noon I found our situation to be in latitude 9 deg. +16' S; longitude from the north part of New Holland 12 deg. 1' W; course +since yesterday noon W 1/2 S, distance 111 miles. + +[Sidenote: Thursday 11.] + +Thursday, June the 11th. Fresh gales and fair weather. Wind S E and S S +E. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 11.] + +Birds and rock-weed showed that we were not far from land; but I +expected such signs must be here, as there are many islands between the +east part of Timor and New Guinea. I however hoped to fall in with Timor +every hour, for I had great apprehensions that some of my people could +not hold out. An extreme weakness, swelled legs, hollow and ghastly +countenances, great propensity to sleep, with an apparent debility of +understanding, seemed to me melancholy presages of their approaching +dissolution. The surgeon and Lebogue, in particular were most miserable +objects. I occasionally gave them a few tea-spoonfuls of wine, out of +the little I had saved for this dreadful stage, which no doubt greatly +helped to support them. + +For my own part, a great share of spirits, with the hopes of being able +to accomplish the voyage, seemed to be my principal support; but the +boatswain very innocently told me, that he really thought I looked worse +than any one in the boat. The simplicity with which he uttered such an +opinion diverted me, and I had good humour enough to return him a better +compliment. + +Every one received his 25th of a pound of bread, and quarter of a pint +of water, at evening, morning, and noon, and an extra allowance of water +was given to those who desired it. + +At noon I observed in latitude 9 deg. 41' S; course S 77 deg. W; distance 109 +miles; longitude made 13 deg. 49' W. I had little doubt of having now passed +the meridian of the eastern part of Timor, which is laid down in 128 deg. E. +This diffused universal joy and satisfaction. + +[Sidenote: Friday 12.] + +Friday, June the 12th. Fresh breezes and fine weather, but very hazy. +Wind from E to S E. + +All the afternoon we had several gannets, and many other birds, about +us, that indicated we were near land, and at sun-set we kept a very +anxious look-out. In the evening we caught a booby, which I reserved for +our dinner the next day. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 12.] + +At three in the morning, with an excess of joy, we discovered Timor +bearing from W S W to W N W, and I hauled on a wind to the N N E till +day-light, when the land bore from S W by S about two leagues to N E by +N seven leagues. + +It is not possible for me to describe the pleasure which the blessing of +the sight of land diffused among us. It appeared scarce credible, that +in an open boat, and so poorly provided, we should have been able to +reach the coast of Timor in forty-one days after leaving Tofoa, having +in that time run, by our log, a distance of 3618 miles, and that, +notwithstanding our extreme distress, no one should have perished in the +voyage. + +I have already mentioned, that I knew not where the Dutch settlement was +situated; but I had a faint idea that it was at the S W part of the +island. I therefore, after day-light, bore away along shore to the S S +W, and the more readily as the wind would not suffer us to go towards +the N E without great loss of time. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 12.] + +The day gave us a most agreeable prospect of the land, which was +interspersed with woods and lawns; the interior part mountainous, but +the shore low. Towards noon the coast became higher, with some +remarkable head-lands. We were greatly delighted with the general look +of the country, which exhibited many cultivated spots and beautiful +situations; but we could only see a few small huts, whence I concluded +no European resided in this part of the island. Much sea ran on the +shore, so that landing with a boat was impracticable. At noon I was +abreast of a very high head-land; the extremes of the land bore S W 1/2 +W, and N N E 1/2 E; our distance off shore being three miles; latitude, +by observation, 9 deg. 59' S; and my longitude, by dead reckoning, from the +north part of New Holland, 15 deg. 6' W. + +With the usual allowance of bread and water for dinner, I divided the +bird we had caught the night before, and to the surgeon and Lebogue I +gave a little wine. + +[Sidenote: Saturday 13.] + +Saturday, June the 13th. Fresh gales at E, and E S E, with very hazy +weather. + +During the afternoon, we continued our course along a low woody shore, +with innumerable palm-trees, called the Fan Palm from the leaf spreading +like a fan; but we had now lost all signs of cultivation, and the +country had not so fine an appearance as it had to the eastward. This, +however, was only a small tract, for by sun-set it improved again, and I +saw several great smokes where the inhabitants were clearing and +cultivating their grounds. We had now ran 25 miles to the W S W since +noon, and were W five miles from a low point, which in the afternoon I +imagined had been the southernmost land, and here the coast formed a +deep bend, with low land in the bight that appeared like islands. The +west shore was high; but from this part of the coast to the high cape +which we were abreast of yesterday noon, the shore is low, and I believe +shoal. I particularly remark this situation, because here the very high +ridge of mountains, that run from the east end of the island, terminate, +and the appearance of the country suddenly changes for the worse, as if +it was not the same island in any respect. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 13.] + +That we might not run past any settlement in the night, I determined to +preserve my station till the morning, and therefore hove to under a +close-reefed fore-sail, with which the boat lay very quiet. We were here +in shoal water; our distance from the shore being half a league, the +westernmost land in sight bearing W S W 1/2 W. Served bread and water +for supper, and the boat lying too very well, all but the officer of the +watch endeavoured to get a little sleep. + +At two in the morning, we wore, and stood in shore till day-light, when +I found we had drifted, during the night, about three leagues to the W S +W, the southernmost land in sight bearing W. On examining the coast, and +not seeing any sign of a settlement, we bore away to the westward, +having a strong gale, against a weather current, which occasioned much +sea. The shore was high and covered with wood, but we did not run far +before low land again formed the coast, the points of which opening at +west, I once more fancied we were on the south part of the island; but +at ten o'clock we found the coast again inclining towards the south, +part of it bearing W S W 1/2 W. At the same time high land appeared from +S W to S W by W 1/2 W; but the weather was so hazy, that it was doubtful +whether the two lands were separated, the opening only extending one +point of the compass. I, for this reason, stood towards the outer land, +and found it to be the island Roti. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 13.] + +I returned to the shore I had left, and in a sandy bay I brought to a +grapnel, that I might more conveniently calculate my situation. In this +place we saw several smokes, where the natives were clearing their +grounds. During the little time we remained here, the master and +carpenter very much importuned me to let them go in search of supplies; +to which, at length, I assented; but, finding no one willing to be of +their party, they did not choose to quit the boat. I stopped here no +longer than for the purpose just mentioned, and we continued steering +along shore. We had a view of a beautiful-looking country, as if formed +by art into lawns and parks. The coast is low, and covered with woods, +in which are innumerable fan palm-trees, that look like cocoa-nut walks. +The interior part is high land, but very different from the more eastern +parts of the island, where it is exceedingly mountainous, and to +appearance the soil better. + +At noon, the island Roti bore S W by W seven leagues. I had no +observation for the latitude, but, by account, we were in 10 deg. 12' S; our +course since yesterday noon being S 77 W, 54 miles. The usual allowance +of bread and water was served for breakfast and dinner, and to the +surgeon and Lebogue, I gave a little wine. + +[Sidenote: Sunday 14.] + +Sunday, June the 14th. A strong gale at E S E, with hazy weather, all +the afternoon; after which the wind became moderate. + +At two o'clock this afternoon, having run through a very dangerous +breaking sea, the cause of which I attributed to a strong tide setting to +windward, and shoal water, we discovered a spacious bay or sound, with a +fair entrance about two or three miles wide. I now conceived hopes that +our voyage was nearly at an end, as no place could appear more eligible +for shipping, or more likely to be chosen for an European settlement: I +therefore came to a grapnel near the east side of the entrance, in a +small sandy bay, where we saw a hut, a dog, and some cattle; and I +immediately sent the boatswain and gunner away to the hut, to discover +the inhabitants. + +The S W point of the entrance bore W 1/2 S three miles; the S E point S +by W three quarters of a mile; and the island Roti from S by W 1/4 W to +S W 1/4 W, about five leagues. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 14.] + +While we lay here I found the ebb came from the northward, and before +our departure the falling of the tide discovered to us a reef of rocks, +about two cables length from the shore; the whole being covered at +high-water, renders it dangerous. On the opposite shore also appeared +very high breakers; but there is nevertheless plenty of room, and +certainly a safe channel for a first-rate man of war. + +The bay or sound within, seemed to be of a considerable extent; the +northern part, which I had now in view, being about five leagues +distant. Here the land made in moderate risings joined by lower grounds. +But the island Roti, which lies to the southward, is the best mark to +know this place. + +I had just time to make these remarks, when I saw the boatswain and +gunner returning with some of the natives. I therefore no longer doubted +of our success, and that our most sanguine expectations would be fully +gratified. They brought five Indians, and informed me that they had +found two families, where the women treated them with European +politeness. From these people I learned, that the governor resided at a +place called Coupang, which was some distance to the N E. I made signs +for one of them to go in the boat, and show me Coupang, intimating that +I would pay him for his trouble; the man readily complied, and came into +the boat. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 14.] + +These people were of a dark tawny colour, and had long black hair; they +chewed a great deal of beetle, and wore a square piece of cloth round +their hips, in the folds of which was stuck a large knife. They had a +handkerchief wrapped round their heads, and at their shoulders hung +another tied by the four corners, which served as a bag for their beetle +equipage. + +They brought us a few pieces of dried turtle, and some ears of Indian +corn. This last was most welcome to us; for the turtle was so hard, that +it could not be eaten without being first soaked in hot water. Had I +staid they would have brought us something more; but, as the pilot was +willing, I was determined to push on. It was about half an hour past +four when we sailed. + +By direction of the pilot we kept close to the east shore under all our +sail; but as night came on, the wind died away, and we were obliged to +try at the oars, which I was surprised to see we could use with some +effect. However, at ten o'clock, as I found we got but little ahead, I +came to a grapnel, and for the first time I issued double allowance of +bread and a little wine to each person. + +At one o'clock in the morning, after the most happy and sweet sleep that +ever men had, we weighed, and continued to keep the east shore on board, +in very smooth water; when at last I found we were again open to the +sea, the whole of the land to the westward, that we had passed, being an +island, which the pilot called Pulo Samow. The northern entrance of this +channel is about a mile and a half or two miles wide, and I had no +ground at ten fathoms. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 14.] + +Hearing the report of two cannon that were fired, gave new life to every +one; and soon after we discovered two square-rigged vessels and a cutter +at anchor to the eastward. I endeavoured to work to windward, but we +were obliged to take to our oars again, having lost ground on each tack. +We kept close to the shore, and continued rowing till four o'clock, when +I brought to a grapnel, and gave another allowance of bread and wine to +all hands. As soon as we had rested a little, we weighed again, and +rowed till near day-light, when I came to a grapnel, off a small fort +and town, which the pilot told me was Coupang. + +Among the things which the boatswain had thrown into the boat before we +left the ship, was a bundle of signal flags that had been made for the +boats to show the depth of water in sounding; with these I had, in the +course of the passage, made a small jack, which I now hoisted in the +main shrouds, as a signal of distress; for I did not choose to land +without leave. + +Soon after day-break a soldier hailed me to land, which I instantly did, +among a croud of Indians, and was agreeably surprised to meet with an +English sailor, who belonged to one of the vessels in the road. His +captain, he told me, was the second person in the town; I therefore +desired to be conducted to him, as I was informed the governor was ill, +and could not then be spoken with. + +Captain Spikerman received me with great humanity. I informed him of our +miserable situation; and requested that care might be taken of those who +were with me, without delay. On which he gave directions for their +immediate reception at his own house, and went himself to the governor, +to know at what time I could be permitted to see him; which was fixed to +be at eleven o'clock. + +I now desired every one to come on shore, which was as much as some of +them could do, being scarce able to walk: they, however, got at last to +the house, and found tea with bread and butter provided for their +breakfast. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 14.] + +The abilities of a painter, perhaps, could never have been displayed to +more advantage than in the delineation of the two groups of figures, +which at this time presented themselves. An indifferent spectator would +have been at a loss which most to admire; the eyes of famine sparkling +at immediate relief, or the horror of their preservers at the sight of +so many spectres, whose ghastly countenances, if the cause had been +unknown, would rather have excited terror than pity. Our bodies were +nothing but skin and bones, our limbs were full of sores, and we were +cloathed in rags; in this condition, with the tears of joy and gratitude +flowing down our cheeks, the people of Timor beheld us with a mixture of +horror, surprise, and pity. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 14.] + +The governor, Mr. William Adrian Van Este, notwithstanding his extreme +ill-health, became so anxious about us, that I saw him before the +appointed time. He received me with great affection, and gave me the +fullest proofs that he was possessed of every feeling of a humane and +good man. Sorry as he was, he said, that such a calamity could ever have +happened to us, yet he considered it as the greatest blessing of his +life that we had fallen under his protection; and, though his infirmity +was so great that he could not do the office of a friend himself, he +would give such orders as I might be certain would procure me every +supply I wanted. In the mean time a house was hired for me, and, till +matters could be properly regulated, victuals for every one were ordered +to be dressed at his own house. With respect to my people, he said I +might have room for them either at the hospital or on board of captain +Spikerman's ship, which lay in the road; and he expressed much +uneasiness that Coupang could not afford them better accommodations, the +house assigned to me being the only one uninhabited, and the situation +of the few families such, that they could not accommodate any one. After +this conversation an elegant repast was set before me, more according to +the custom of the country, than with design to alleviate my hunger: so +that in this instance he happily blended, with common politeness, the +greatest favour I could receive. + +On returning to my people, I found every kind relief had been given to +them. The surgeon had dressed their sores, and the cleaning of their +persons had not been less attended to, besides several friendly gifts of +apparel. + +I now desired to be shewn to the house that was intended for me, and I +found it ready, with servants to attend, and a particular one, which the +governor had directed to be always about my person. The house consisted +of a hall, with a room at each end, and a loft over-head; and was +surrounded by a piazza, with an outer apartment in one corner, and a +communication from the back part of the house to the street. I therefore +determined, instead of separating from my people, to lodge them all with +me; and I divided the house as follows: One room I took to myself, the +other I allotted to the master, surgeon, Mr. Nelson, and the gunner; the +loft to the other officers; and the outer apartment to the men. The hall +was common to the officers, and the men had the back piazza. Of this I +informed the governor, and he sent down chairs, tables, and benches, +with bedding and other necessaries for the use of every one. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 14.] + +The governor, when I took my leave, had desired me to acquaint him with +every thing of which I stood in need; but I was now informed it was only +at particular times that he had a few moments of ease, or could attend +to any thing; being in a dying state, with an incurable disease. On this +account, whatever business I had to transact would be with Mr. Timotheus +Wanjon, the second of this place, and the governor's son-in-law; who now +also was contributing every thing in his power to make our situation +comfortable. I had been, therefore, misinformed by the seaman, who told +me that captain Spikerman was the next person to the governor. + +At noon a very handsome dinner was brought to the house, which was +sufficient to make persons, more accustomed to plenty, eat too much. +Cautions, therefore, might be supposed to have had little effect; but I +believe few people in such a situation would have observed more +moderation. My greatest apprehension was, that they would eat too much +fruit. + +Having seen every one enjoy this meal of plenty, I dined with Mr. +Wanjon; but I found no extraordinary inclination to eat or drink. Rest +and quiet, I considered, as more necessary to my doing well, and +therefore retired to my room, which I found furnished with every +convenience. But, instead of rest, my mind was disposed to reflect on +our late sufferings, and on the failure of the expedition; but, above +all, on the thanks due to Almighty God, who had given us power to +support and bear such heavy calamities, and had enabled me at last to be +the means of saving eighteen lives. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 14.] + +In times of difficulty there will generally arise circumstances that +bear more particularly hard on a commander. In our late situation, it +was not the least of my distresses, to be constantly assailed with the +melancholy demands of my people for an increase of allowance, which it +grieved me to refuse. The necessity of observing the most rigid +[oe]conomy in the distribution of our provisions was so evident, that I +resisted their solicitations, and never deviated from the agreement we +made at setting out. The consequence of this care was, that at our +arrival we had still remaining sufficient for eleven days, at our +scanty allowance: and if we had been so unfortunate as to have missed +the Dutch settlement at Timor, we could have proceeded to Java, where I +was certain every supply we wanted could be procured. + +Another disagreeable circumstance, to which my situation exposed me, was +the caprice of ignorant people. Had I been incapable of acting, they +would have carried the boat on shore as soon as we made the island of +Timor, without considering that landing among the natives, at a distance +from the European settlement, might have been as dangerous as among any +other Indians. + +The quantity of provisions with which we left the ship, was not more +than we should have consumed in five days, had there been no necessity +for husbanding our stock. The mutineers must naturally have concluded +that we could have no other place of refuge than the Friendly Islands; +for it was not likely they should imagine, that, so poorly equipped as +we were in every respect, there could have been a possibility of our +attempting to return homewards: much less will they suspect that the +account of their villany has already reached their native country. + +[Sidenote: 1789. JUNE 14.] + +When I reflect how providentially our lives were saved at Tofoa, by the +Indians delaying their attack, and that, with scarce any thing to +support life, we crossed a sea of more than 1200 leagues, without +shelter from the inclemency of the weather; when I reflect that in an +open boat, with so much stormy weather, we escaped foundering, that not +any of us were taken off by disease, that we had the great good fortune +to pass the unfriendly natives of other countries without accident, and +at last happily to meet with the most friendly and best of people to +relieve our distresses; I say, when I reflect on all these wonderful +escapes, the remembrance of such great mercies enables me to bear, with +resignation and chearfulness, the failure of an expedition, the success +of which I had so much at heart, and which was frustrated at a time when +I was congratulating myself on the fairest prospect of being able to +complete it in a manner that would fully have answered the intention of +his Majesty, and the honourable promoters of so benevolent a plan. + +With respect to the preservation of our health, during a course of 16 +days of heavy and almost continual rain, I would recommend to every one +in a similar situation the method we practised, which is to dip their +cloaths in the salt-water, and wring them out, as often as they become +filled with rain; it was the only resource we had, and I believe was of +the greatest service to us, for it felt more like a change of dry +cloaths than could well be imagined. We had occasion to do this so +often, that at length all our cloaths were wrung to pieces: for, except +the few days we passed on the coast of New Holland, we were continually +wet either with rain or sea. + +Thus, through the assistance of Divine Providence, we surmounted the +difficulties and distresses of a most perilous voyage, and arrived safe +in an hospitable port, where every necessary and comfort were +administered to us with a most liberal hand. + + +[Sidenote: Timor.] + +[Sidenote: 1789. JULY.] + +As, from the great humanity and attention of the governor, and the +gentlemen, at Coupang, we received every kind of assistance, we were not +long without evident signs of returning health: therefore, to secure my +arrival at Batavia, before the October fleet sailed for Europe, on the +first of July, I purchased a small schooner; 34 feet long, for which I +gave 1000 rix-dollars, and fitted her for sea, under the name of His +Majesty's schooner Resource. + +[Sidenote: July. 20.] + +On the 20th of July, I had the misfortune to lose Mr. David Nelson: he +died of an inflammatory fever. The loss of this honest man I very much +lamented: he had accomplished, with great care and diligence, the object +for which he was sent, and was always ready to forward every plan I +proposed, for the good of the service we were on. He was equally useful +in our voyage hither, in the course of which he gave me great +satisfaction, by the patience and fortitude with which he conducted +himself. + +[Sidenote: July. 21.] + +July 21st. This day I was employed attending the funeral of Mr. Nelson. +The corpse was carried by twelve soldiers drest in black, preceded by +the minister; next followed myself and second governor; then ten +gentlemen of the town and the officers of the ships in the harbour; and +after them my own officers and people. + +After reading our burial-service, the body was interred behind the +chapel, in the burying-ground appropriated to the Europeans of the town. +I was sorry I could get no tombstone to place over his remains. + +This was the second voyage Mr. Nelson had undertaken to the South Seas, +having been sent out by Sir Joseph Banks; to collect plants, seeds, &c. +in Captain Cook's last voyage. And now, after surmounting so many +difficulties, and in the midst of thankfulness for his deliverance, he +was called upon to pay the debt of nature, at a time least expected. + +[Sidenote: August 20.] + +August the 20th. After taking an affectionate leave of the hospitable +and friendly inhabitants, I embarked, and we sailed from Coupang, +exchanging salutes with the fort and shipping as we ran out of the +harbour. + +[Sidenote: 1789. AUGUST.] + +I left the governor, Mr. Van Este, at the point of death. To this +gentleman our most grateful thanks are due, for the humane and friendly +treatment that we have received from him. His ill state of health only +prevented him from showing us more particular marks of attention. +Unhappily, it is to his memory only that I now pay this tribute. It was +a fortunate circumstance for us, that Mr. Wanjon, the next in place to +the governor, was equally humane and ready to relieve us. His attention +was unremitting, and, when there was a doubt about supplying me with +money, on government account, to enable me to purchase a vessel, he +chearfully took it upon himself; without which, it was evident, I should +have been too late at Batavia to have sailed for Europe with the October +fleet. I can only return such services by ever retaining a grateful +remembrance of them. + +Mr. Max, the town surgeon, likewise behaved to us with the most +disinterested humanity: he attended every one with the utmost care; for +which I could not prevail on him to receive any payment, or to render me +any account, or other answer, than that it was his duty. + +Coupang is situated in 10 deg. 12' S latitude, and 124 deg. 41' E longitude. + +[Sidenote: August 29.] + +On the 29th of August, I passed by the west end of the Island Flores, +through a dangerous strait full of islands and rocks; and, having got +into the latitude of 8 deg. S, I steered to the west, passing the islands +Sumbawa, Lombock, and Bali, towards Java, which I saw on the 6th of +September. I continued my course to the west, through the Straits of +Madura. + +[Sidenote: September 10.] + +[Sidenote: Passourwang] + +On the 10th of September, I anchored off Passourwang, in latitude 7 deg. 36' +S, and 1 deg. 44' W of Cape Sandana, the N E end or Java. + +[Sidenote: 1789. SEPTEMBER] + +On the 11th I sailed, and on the 13th arrived at Sourabya, latitude 7 deg. +11' S, 1 deg. 52' west. + +[Sidenote: Sourabya. Crissey.] + +On the 17th of September, sailed from Sourabya, and the same day +anchored at Crissey, for about two hours, and from thence I proceeded to +Samarang. Latitude of Crissey 7 deg. 9' S, 1 deg. 55' west. + +[Sidenote: Samarang.] + +[Sidenote: Batavia.] + +On the 22nd of September, anchored at Samarang; latitude 6 deg. 54' S; 4 deg. 7' +W. And on the 26th I sailed for Batavia, where I arrived on the 1st of +October. Latitude 6 deg. 10' S; 8 deg. 12' W from the east end of Java. + +On the day after my arrival, having gone through some fatigue in +adjusting matters to get my people out of the schooner, as she lay in +the river, and in an unhealthy situation, I was seized with a violent +fever. + +On the 7th, I was carried into the country, to the physician-general's +house, where, the governor-general informed me, I should be accommodated +with every attendance and convenience; and to this only can I attribute +my recovery. It was, however, necessary for me to quit Batavia without +delay; and the governor, on that account, gave me leave, with two +others, to go in a packet that was to sail before the fleet; and assured +me, that those who remained should be sent after me by the fleet, which +was to sail before the end of the month: that if I remained, which would +be highly hazardous, he could not send us all in one ship. My sailing, +therefore, was eligible, even if it had not been necessary for my +health; and for that reason I embarked in the Vlydt packet, which sailed +on the 16th of October. + +[Sidenote: Cape of Good Hope.] + +[Sidenote: 1789. DECEMBER.] + +On the 16th of December, I arrived at the Cape of Good Hope where I +first observed that my usual health was returning; but for a long time +I continued very weak and infirm. + +I received the greatest attention and politeness from the +governor-general, and all the residents on the coast of Java; and +particular marks of friendship and regard from the governor, M. Van de +Graaf, at the Cape of Good Hope. + +On the 2d of January, 1790, we sailed for Europe, and on the 14th of +March, I was landed at Portsmouth by an Isle of Wight boat. + + +FINIS. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Narrative Of The Mutiny, On Board +His Majesty's Ship Bounty; And The Subsequent Voyage Of Part Of The Crew, In The Ship's Boat, by William Bligh + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MUTINY OF THE BOUNTY *** + +***** This file should be named 20337.txt or 20337.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/0/3/3/20337/ + +Produced by Chuck Greif, V. L. Simpson and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. 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