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diff --git a/20191.txt b/20191.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..67afb79 --- /dev/null +++ b/20191.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3405 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral Church of +Durham, by J. E. Bygate + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral Church of Durham + A Description of Its Fabric and A Brief History of the Episcopal See + +Author: J. E. Bygate + +Release Date: December 26, 2006 [EBook #20191] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF DURHAM *** + + + + +Produced by Jonathan Ingram, David Cortesi and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +[Illustration: Durham Cathedral, from the South-West.] + + + + + THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF + DURHAM + + A DESCRIPTION OF ITS FABRIC + AND A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE + EPISCOPAL SEE + + BY + J.E. BYGATE, A.R.C.A. + + [Illustration: Arms of the See.] + + WITH FORTY-FOUR ILLUSTRATIONS + + LONDON GEORGE BELL & SONS 1905 + + + _First Published ... March 1899_ + _Second Edition, Revised ... September 1900_ + _Reprinted ... 1905_ + + _The Riverside Press Limited, Edinburgh_ + + * * * * * + + + + +GENERAL PREFACE + + +This series of monographs has been planned to supply visitors to the +great English Cathedrals with accurate and well illustrated guide-books +at a popular price. The aim of each writer has been to produce a work +compiled with sufficient knowledge and scholarship to be of value to the +student of Archaeology and History, and yet not too technical in +language for the use of an ordinary visitor or tourist. + +To specify all the authorities which have been made use of in each case +would be difficult and tedious in this place. But amongst the general +sources of information which have been almost invariably found useful +are:--(1) the great county histories, the value of which, especially in +questions of genealogy and local records, is generally recognised; (2) +the numerous papers by experts which appear from time to time in the +Transactions of the Antiquarian and Archaeological Societies; (3) the +important documents made accessible in the series issued by the Master +of the Rolls; (4) the well-known works of Britton and Willis on the +English Cathedrals; and (5) the very excellent series of Handbooks to +the Cathedrals originated by the late Mr John Murray; to which the +reader may in most cases be referred for fuller detail, especially in +reference to the histories of the respective sees. + + * * * * * + + + + +AUTHOR'S PREFACE + + +As much as possible of this brief description of Durham is from the +personal acquaintance of the writer with the building. Yet many +authorities have, of necessity, been consulted in its preparation, +notably a pamphlet by the Rev. Canon W. Greenwell, and the "County of +Durham," by J.R. Boyle, F.S.A. Thanks are also due to the authorities of +the Cathedral for having freely given permission to make drawings and +measurements, and to the late Mr Weatherall, chief verger, for his +kindly assistance and information. + +The illustrations are chiefly from sketches and drawings by the writer, +and from photographs reproduced by the kindness of the Photochrom +Company, Ltd., and Messrs S.B. Bolas & Co. + + J.E.B. + + * * * * * + + + + +CONTENTS + + +CHAPTER I.--The Building of the Church 3 + +CHAPTER II.--Description of the Exterior 21 + The Towers 21 + The East Front 22 + The West Front 25 + The North Door 25 + The South Door 26 + The West Door 28 + The Cloister 29 + The Chapter-House 32 + The Dun Cow 35 + +CHAPTER III.--Description of the Interior 39 + The Nave 39 + The Choir 40 + The Neville Screen 43 + The Transepts 50 + The Tower 53 + The East End 54 + The Chapel of the Nine Altars 61 + The Tomb of S. Cuthbert 69 + The Galilee or Lady Chapel 72 + Monuments in the Nave and Transepts 79 + The Font 81 + +CHAPTER IV.--History of the See 82 + +CHAPTER V.--The Castle and University 102 + +CHAPTER VI.--The City 111 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + +Durham Cathedral, from the South-West _Frontispiece_ +Arms of the See _Title Page_ +The Exterior, from the College 2 +The Dun Cow 9 +The West End (from an Old Print) 17 +The Exterior, from Palace Green 20 +The Central Tower 23 +Detail of Ironwork 26 +The Sanctuary Knocker 26 +Ironwork on Doors of Cloisters 27 +Ornament on South Doorway 28 +The Cloister 29 +S. Cuthbert's Chest. 32 +The Chapter-House 33 +The Exterior, from the South-East 35 +The Nave, looking West 38 +One Bay of the Nave (Measured Drawing) 41 +Triforium and Clerestory 45 +The Choir, looking West 47 +The Transepts, looking North 51 +Corbels in Choir 54, 58 +The Choir, looking East 55 +Triforium of Nave and Choir 59 +Plan of Norman East End 61 +Sections of Hood and Arch Mouldings 61 +Capitals in the Nine Altars Chapel 62 +The Nine Altars Chapel 63 +Capital in Galilee Chapel 66 +The Galilee Chapel 67, 72 +Paintings in the Galilee Chapel 73 +Detail of the Galilee Chapel 75 +The Font and Cover 80 +The Crypt 85 +Stone Coffin Lid 88 +The Chapter Library 99 +The Chapel or Crypt, Durham Castle 103 +Staircase in the Castle 107 +The Cathedral and Castle, from the North 113 + +PLAN AND DIMENSIONS 118 + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: The Exterior, from the College.] + + + + +DURHAM CATHEDRAL + + + + +CHAPTER I + +THE BUILDING OF THE CHURCH + + +The traveller northward by the East Coast Route cannot fail to be struck +by the beauty of the city of Durham, with its red-roofed houses nestling +beneath the majestic site of the cathedral and castle. For splendid +position the Cathedral of Durham stands unequalled in this country; on +the Continent, perhaps that of Albi can alone be compared with it in +this respect. The cathedral and Norman Castle are upon the summit of a +lofty tongue of land which is almost surrounded by the River Wear. In +parts the banks are rocky and steep, in others thickly wooded. The river +itself is spanned here and there by fine and historic bridges. + +The early history of Durham is obscure. There are many vague legends in +existence, a natural consequence, perhaps, when we remember the various +and often speedy changes of ownership to which that part of the country +was for centuries subjected. + +To lead up clearly to the founding of the Cathedral of Durham, it will +be necessary to describe briefly the earliest introduction of +Christianity into the north of England. That Christianity was known in +this country during the time of the Romans there is sufficient evidence +to prove. There is, however, little to show that it existed in the north +to any appreciable extent. All or nearly all the carved stones, altars, +etc., disinterred in that part of the country have been of undoubted +Pagan origin. + +The ancient kingdom of Northumbria comprised the present counties of +Durham, Northumberland, and Yorkshire, and a part of the south-east of +Scotland as far north as the Firth of Forth. This kingdom was +sub-divided into two portions. The Southern, or Deira, extended from the +Tees to the Humber, and the Northern, or Bernicia, reached from the Tees +to the Firth of Forth. The province of Bernicia was settled about A.D. +547 by Ida, a chief of the Angles, who made his headquarters on a steep +rock on the sea-coast about sixteen miles south of Berwick. He was +succeeded by his son Ethelric, who built himself a stronghold, which he +named after his wife Bebbanburgh, a name still retained in a shortened +form--Bamburgh. Ethelric was followed by Ella, whose son Edwin was +driven into exile by his fierce brother-in-law, Ethelfrith, and took +possession of Deira, the southern province of Northumbria. After +attaining his majority, Edwin, assisted by Redwald, regained his +kingdom, and eventually ruled over the whole of Northumbria; it is +during his reign that we find the first authentic history of +Christianity in the north. Edwin married Ethelburga, a daughter of +Ethelbert, king of Kent, who had been converted to Christianity by the +preaching of S. Augustine. He himself received baptism at the hands of +Paulinus (625-633), the great Roman missionary, who was sent north with +the Princess Ethelburga. Paulinus fixed his headquarters at York, where +he built his church, the forerunner of the present cathedral. This +attempt of the Romans to christianise Northumbria was, however, of short +duration. Cadwalla and Penda rose against them, and Edwin fell in battle +at Hatfield Moor in Yorkshire. Paulinus, despairing of the cause, +returned to Kent with the queen-widow Ethelburga and her children; and +under Cadwalla and Penda, the kingdom soon relapsed into Paganism. + +We must now direct our attention to a small, barren island on the west +coast of Scotland, Iona. Here came a voluntary exile (A.D. 563), +Columba, a monk, said to have been a descendant of the Irish kings. Here +he lived and founded a great missionary monastery, which afterwards +became the centre of Christian influence in Scotland and the north of +England. He and his followers were active workers; they wrote Gospels +and devotional books, preached, and built churches of wood. Columba died +(A.D. 597), but his work was continued. + +In 634, Oswald, a son of Ethelfrith, became king of Northumbria. In his +youth he, with his brothers, had been obliged to flee to Scotland, +where, during his exile, Oswald was converted to Christianity by the +teachers of Iona. On his return he defeated and killed Cadwalla at +Hevenfeld, or Heavenfield, near Hexham, in 634, and became the means of +finally introducing Christianity into his kingdom. Soon after he became +king, Oswald sent to Iona for help, and in reply came a monk, who, for +some reason, said by old writers to be his harshness, failed in his +mission. He was replaced by another monk named Aidan (635-651), who was +eminently successful. Beda speaks of him as "a man of great piety and +zeal, combined with tender charity and gentleness." Aidan became +intimately associated with King Oswald, the two working together, and he +chose for his headquarters the small sandy island of Lindisfarne, off +the Northumbrian coast, which we now know as "Holy Island." + +Lindisfarne thus resembled Iona, and it is probable that the similarity +of position and surroundings influenced Aidan in his choice. However +that may be, Aidan there founded his monastery and directed the work of +his monks. + +Passing over a short period, we find at Lindisfarne a monk who is so +intimately connected with this cathedral that he demands special +attention--the great S. Cuthbert, sixth bishop of Lindisfarne, and the +patron saint of Durham. Little is known of his birth and parentage. Some +writers give him a Scotch origin, others Irish,[1] and others again say +he was born of humble parents on the banks of the Tweed. The latter is +most probable. Certain it is that at an early age he was left an orphan, +and was employed as an under-shepherd near to Melrose. From his earliest +youth he was thoughtful and pious, and watched and imitated in his mode +of life the monks of Melrose. There are numerous legends and stories of +S. Cuthbert's youth. He is said to have wrought many miracles, even to +the extent of stilling a tempest. One of these may be told here on +account of the share it played in his choice of monastic life:--On a +certain night in A.D. 651, while tending his sheep, his companions being +asleep, Cuthbert saw in the heavens a brilliant shaft of light, and +angels descending. These very shortly re-ascended, bearing among them "a +spirit of surpassing brightness." In the morning it was found that the +good S. Aidan was dead. The vision had a marked and lasting effect on +Cuthbert, and eventually resulted in his entering the monastery at +Melrose. For ten years Cuthbert led a holy and studious life at Melrose, +under Prior Boisil, when he was chosen among others to proceed to the +newly-founded monastery at Ripon. His sojourn there was, however, short, +as owing to doctrinal differences concerning the celebration of Easter, +he and the other Scottish monks returned to Melrose. Some four years +later, on the death of Boisil, Cuthbert was elected his successor, as +prior of Melrose. In A.D. 664, we find him holding the same office at +Lindisfarne, where he remained for twelve years. He then retired from +his position, in order to attain a higher degree of Christian perfection +by living a solitary life, first on a small island near Lindisfarne, and +afterwards on the island of Farne, near Bamburgh. There are many stories +told of his great piety at this time, so that even the wild sea-birds +are said to have obeyed him. + + [1] Sanderson, in his edition of "Rites of Durham," 1767, says: + "He is said to be descended from the Blood Royal of the Kings + of Ireland, being son of one Muriardach and Sabina his wife, + a King's daughter. He was educated in the Abbey of Mailrose." + +In the year A.D. 685 Cuthbert was, though against his own wishes, +consecrated Bishop of Lindisfarne. His great activity and usefulness in +this office was soon cut short, for in less than two years, on the 20th +of March A.D. 687, he died. Obediently to his own request, his body was +wrapped in a linen cloth, which had been given him by the Abbess Yerca; +and, placed in a stone coffin, the gift of the Abbot Cudda, was interred +in the church at Lindisfarne. He was not to rest, however. In A.D. 698 +the monks disinterred his remains in order to place them in a +specially-prepared wooden coffin. It is said they found the saint's body +perfectly incorrupt. To quote the quaint Hegge: + + But whiles they opened his coffin, they start at a wonder, they + look't for bones and found flesh, they expected a skeleton, and saw + an entire bodie, with joynts flexible, his flesh so succulent, that + there only wanted heate to make his bodie live without a soul, and + his face so dissembling death, that elsewhere it is true that sleep + is the image of death, but here death was the image of sleep. Nay, + his very funerall weeds were so fresh, as if putrefaction had not + dared to take him by the coat.[2] + + [2] "County of Durham," by J.K. Boyle, F.S.A. + +Whatever may be the truth of this, his body was placed in a wooden +coffin, portions of which are still preserved in the chapter library at +Durham. + +Over a century and a half after these events the coast of Northumbria +was disturbed and troubled by the piratical invasions of the Danes. The +number and violence of these incursions so increased that the whole +country lay practically at their mercy. Becoming alarmed for their own +safety and that of their holy relics, the monks of Lindisfarne fled, +taking with them the body of their saint, and all their sacred vessels +and books. This occurred in A.D. 875. + +Here commenced that long wandering which eventually ended in the +founding of the Cathedral Church of Durham, where the bones of S. +Cuthbert found their final resting-place. + +Bishop Eardulph and his monks, with their sacred charge, travelled for +seven years, over a great portion of the north of England and part of +the south of Scotland. Many churches dedicated to S. Cuthbert in the +north are thought to mark their resting-places. From a list of these +given by Prior Wessington the probable route of the wanderers can be +approximately, made out as follows:--First to Elsdon and down the Rede +to Haydon Bridge. Up the South Tyne to Beltinghame, and then following +the route of the Roman Wall to Bewcastle. Turning south to Salkeld, and +thence by Eden Hall and Plumbland into Lancashire, towards the river +Derwent. Here they came to a determination to cross to Ireland, and took +ship from the mouth of the Derwent. Very soon a violent storm arose, the +vessel became unmanageable and was nearly filled with water, which, +according to Symeon, immediately turned into blood. A return was +inevitable. It was during this attempt that the famous copy of the +Gospels, known as the Durham Book, was washed overboard into the sea. +This book is, perhaps, the most beautiful example of Anglo-Saxon writing +and illumination extant, and is surpassed only by the celebrated Irish +MS., the Book of Kells. It was shortly afterwards found on the coast in +a comparatively uninjured condition; and is now preserved in the British +Museum. The wandering monks next turned northwards as far as Witherne, +on the Galloway coast, and then returned to England, through +Westmoreland and across Stainmoor into Teesdale, staying for a time at +a village, which no doubt owes it present name Cotherstone to this +circumstance. Leaving here and crossing the hills, through Marske, +Forcett and Barton, they arrived at the abbey of Craike, near +Easingwold, where they were kindly treated by the abbot, and remained +about four months. On resuming their journey the monks removed the body +of S. Cuthbert to Cuncachester, or, as we now know it, Chester-le-Street, +a former Roman camp. Here the fraternity remained for a hundred and +thirteen years; and here was the seat of the Bishopric of Bernicia until +A.D. 995. Many are the legends clustering round these journeyings. How, +when leaving Lindisfarne, the sea opened a passage for them, and how in +more than one difficulty the dead saint himself gave them assistance. +Notably, on one occasion when the bearers were worn out and weary he +appeared and showed them where they would find a horse and car in which +to carry their burden. This horse and car were afterwards used on their +journeys. + +In the year 995, again for safety, they removed once more under Bishop +Aldhun, first for a short time to Ripon, and then finally to Durham. It +is of this last journey the following story is told:-- + + "Coming with him" (_v._ Sanderson), "on the _East_ Side of _Durham_, + to a Place call'd _Wardenlawe,_ they could not with all their Force + remove his body further, for it seemed fastened to the Ground; which + strange and unforeseen Accident produced great Astonishment in the + Hearts of the Bishop, the Monks, and their Associates; whereupon + they fasted and prayed three Days with great Devotion, to know by + Revelation from God, what to do with the holy Body, which was soon + granted to them, it being revealed to _Eadmer_, a virtuous Man, that + he should be carried to _Dunholme_, where he was to be received to a + Place of Rest. They were again in great Distress, in not knowing + where _Dunholme_ lay; but as they proceeded, a Woman wanting her + Cow, called aloud to her Companion, to know if she had seen her? Who + answered, She was in _Dunholme_. This was an happy and heavenly + Sound to the distressed Monks, who thereby had Intelligence that + their Journey's End was at Hand, and the Saint's Body near its + Resting-place; thereupon with great Joy they arrived with his + Body at _Dunholme_, in the Year 997." + +[Illustration: The Dun Cow.] + +Arrived at Dunholm they raised a "little Church of Wands and Branches" +to protect the sacred relics until a building more worthy of such a +charge could be erected. This was the beginning of the Cathedral and +City of Durham. + +The condition of the place at this time must have been very wild, and it +certainly was a natural stronghold. The only open spot seems to have +been the plateau where the cathedral now stands. The site is curiously +described in a Saxon poem, from which the following is a translation:-- + + The City is celebrated + In the whole Empire of the Britons + The road to it is steep + It is surrounded with rocks + And with curious plants + The Wear flows round it + A river of rapid waves + And there live in it + Fishes of various kinds + Mingling with the floods. + And there grow + Great Forests, + There live in the recesses + Wild Animals of many sorts + In the deep valleys + Deer innumerable. + +As soon as possible a stone chapel was built, in which the body of S. +Cuthbert was placed. Bishop Aldhun, not satisfied with this, determined +to establish a great church. Work was immediately commenced and +progressed so rapidly that the building, known as "the White Church," +was consecrated in A.D. 999. Of this there would seem to be no authentic +remains existing; although some authorities think portions of it are +included in the present cathedral. Bishop Aldhun died in 1018. The next +date of importance is the year 1081, when William of Saint Carileph was +appointed Bishop by the Conqueror. He was a monk of the Benedictine +order, and at once drove out and dispossessed the secular clergy at +Durham, replacing them from the Benedictine Monasteries which were +established at Jarrow and Monkwearmouth. Bishop Carileph is the man to +whom we owe the present Cathedral of Durham. In 1088 he was obliged to +flee into exile in Normandy, where he remained three years, through his +having taken part in the rebellion against William II. It was probably +during this time of banishment that he conceived the idea that if he +returned to Durham he would build a more worthy church, such as were +already erected and in course of construction in Normandy. + +Soon after his return in 1091 he commenced to carry out his scheme; and +we learn that on the 11th of August 1093, the foundation stone of the +new church was laid, with great pomp. + +The work proceeded rapidly, commencing at the east end. By the time of +Bishop Carileph's death, which occurred in 1096, the walls of the choir, +the eastern walls of the transepts, the tower arches, and a portion of +the first bay of the nave, were completed. It is also very probable that +the lower portion of the walls of the whole church are of Carileph's +time. + +After the death of Bishop Carileph the see of Durham remained vacant for +three years. The monks, however, were not idle during this period, and +they continued the work vigorously, completing the west walls of the +transepts and the vaulting of the north transept. In 1099 Ralph Flambard +was appointed bishop, and he held the office until 1128. He carried on +the building as the funds at his disposal would allow, sometimes rapidly +and at others more slowly. Before his death it would appear that he +completed the nave as high as the wall plates and altogether finished +and roofed the aisles. The western towers as far as the height of the +roof of the nave are also the work of Flambard. In 1104 the work was so +far advanced as to permit the removal of the body of S. Cuthbert, from +the temporary shrine which Bishop Carileph had erected over it, into the +new church. This ceremony was performed on August 29th, 1104, and the +coffin was placed in a shrine behind the high altar. + +On Flambard's death in 1128 the see was again left vacant for five +years, but we are told that the monks continued the work and completed +the nave. The portion built by them at this time must of necessity have +been the vaulting and roof, the architectural features of which are +quite in accordance with the date, being late Norman. + +Flambard's successor was Galfrid Rufus, who was Bishop from 1133 to +1140. + +During his episcopate the chapter-house, which had been commenced by +the monks, was completed. Rufus also replaced the then existing north +and south doorways of the nave, by those standing to-day. + +The next bishop, William de St Barbara (1143 to 1152), does not appear +to have added anything to the cathedral. During his time of office the +see was usurped by William Cummin, and building operations were no doubt +neglected through the troubles arising from the usurpation. His +successor, Hugh Pudsey (1153 to 1195) was, however, a great builder; +appointed to the see at a comparatively early age, and, living as he +did, at a time when very great changes were taking place in +architectural style, he was able to carry out a great deal of beautiful +work. + +He began to build a Lady Chapel at the east end of the choir, but +although he had made careful preparations, and engaged skilled +architects and workmen, great cracks appeared in the walls before the +work had proceeded far, and the building was stopped. Bishop Pudsey, +taking this as a divine revelation that the work was not pleasing to +God, and the patron S. Cuthbert, abandoned it and commenced another +chapel at the west end of the church, using in its erection the Purbeck +marble bases and columns which he had had prepared for his eastern +chapel. This second attempt was successful and remains to us in that +beautiful and unique specimen of Transitional work, the Galilee Chapel. +Its date may be taken, says Canon Greenwell, "as about the year 1175." +Besides this work Pudsey built the hall and solar now called (at the +top) the "Norman Gallery" of Durham Castle. + +Little or nothing further seems to have been done until the translation +of Bishop Poore from the see of Sarum to Durham in 1229. The name of +Bishop Poore is inseparably connected with the building of the present +Salisbury Cathedral, and after his removal to Durham he conceived the +idea of, and made preparations for, commencing the eastern transept of +the Cathedral, which is a special feature of Durham, now known as the +Chapel of the Nine Altars. He was not, however, destined to live to see +his idea carried out. + +The eastern termination of Carileph's choir had been apsidal; it was +found to be in a very unsafe condition, cracks and fissures appearing in +the walls. Various bishops and priors sent aid towards "the new work," +but actual building did not commence until after the death of Bishop +Poore in 1237. The erection was commenced by Prior Melsanby and, of +course, necessitated the taking down of Carileph's apses. The revaulting +of the choir was undertaken at this time, doubtless, for artistic +reasons, to bring the new work into harmony with the old. The Chapel of +the Nine Altars is a rare and valuable specimen of Early English Gothic +architecture of remarkable and graceful design. Below each of its nine +lancet windows was originally an altar, dedicated to different saints. +Its great height was obtained by lowering the floor, so that the unity +of the whole exterior should not be destroyed. Prior Melsanby is also +said to have put a new roof on the church. + +Prior Hugh de Derlington, who was at the head of affairs from 1258 to +1272, and later from 1285 to 1289, added a belfry to the central tower. + +John Fossor, made prior of Durham in 1342, inserted the large window in +the north transept and the west windows of the nave. + +Bishop Thomas de Hatfield (1346 to 1381) seems to have done no +architectural work beyond the erection of his own throne and tomb (in +which he was afterwards buried) on the south side of the choir. This is +an elaborate and sumptuous piece of work, and shows remains of rich +colouring and gilding. About this time, also, the beautiful altar screen +known as the Neville screen was erected. Its cost was principally borne +by Lord John Neville, though the Priors Fossor and Berrington and the +subordinate cells of Jarrow and Monkwearmouth were also contributors. +The screen is of stone--very light and graceful, and originally +contained in the niches 107 figures, which have unfortunately been +destroyed. + +Bishop Walter de Skirlaw, who occupied the episcopal throne from 1388 to +1405, was a great builder. To him mainly we owe the present cloisters, +though they were completed by his successor, Cardinal Langley, in 1418. + +The monks' dormitory on the western side of the cloister is also of this +time. On the southern side was the refectory. This portion was rebuilt +by Dean Sudbury between 1661 and 1684 and converted into a library, and +such it remains to-day. + +Near the refectory is the kitchen, built by Prior Fossor. It is +octagonal in plan, and possesses a fine groined roof. It is now attached +to the deanery, and known as the dean's kitchen. + +We must now turn our attention to the erection of the present central +tower. The belfry added by Hugh de Derlington was in 1429 struck by +lightning and set on fire. It must after this have been repaired in some +way, but in 1456 it was in a very unsafe and dangerous condition, as the +following letter written by the prior, William Ebchester, to Bishop +Neville testifies:-- + + "The Belfry of your church, both in its masonry and timber, in + consequence of winds and storms is so enfeebled and shaken, that + doubts are entertained of its standing for any length of time. We + have called in workmen in both capacities, and they have reported to + us that three of its sides are out of perpendicular, that many of + the Key and cornerstones of its windows have fallen out, that in + other respects it is defective, and that besides, its woodwork is in + a state of great decay so that it cannot be expected to stand for + any length of time. Some are of opinion that the belfry should be + totally removed as it cannot stand longer; others on the contrary, + wish it to be perfectly restored; a thing which exceeds our means, + unless we have the advantage of charitable aid. In this state of + doubt and hesitation, we have recourse to you, as members to their + head, presuming not to engage in any such great and stupendous + alteration with reference to your church, without your advice. + + "If, which God forbid, the tower should fall, the solemn fabric of + our choir, and the shrine of our most holy patron, would without + doubt, be broken down and irrevocably laid flat on the ground, for + that is the direction in which it leans. We confess that whenever + winds and storms are high, and we are standing at our duty in that + part of the church we tremble for our fate, having positive danger + before our eyes." + +Shortly afterwards, the rebuilding of all the upper part of the central +tower was commenced and continued for some years. It was not complete in +1474 when Richard Bell was prior, as in a letter written at the time he +mentions the "reedificacion of our steeple, begun but nogt fynyshed, in +defaulte of goods, as God knoweth." It is therefore most probable that +the upper portion was not completed until towards the close of the +fifteenth century. + +We have now reached a period when the glories of Gothic architecture +were fading, during which many of our finest churches suffered +considerably. Durham is no exception to the rule, and we find during the +next two centuries a long record of destruction and so-called +improvement. This, perhaps, reached its worst stage during the time of +Wyatt, who in 1796 pulled down the magnificent Norman chapter-house. +During the last decade, however, this has been completely rebuilt from +as nearly as possible the original design. Wyatt also rebuilt the +turrets on the eastern transept or Nine Altar Chapel from his own +design, and removed the great Early English rose window in the east end +and replaced it by the present one. The original stained glass was taken +out of all the windows of the east end, and Raine, in his history, tells +us that it "lay for a long time afterwards in baskets upon the floor, +and when the greater part of it had been purloined, the remainder was +locked up in the Galilee.... At a still later period, about fifteen +years ago, portions of it were placed in the great round window, and the +rest still remains unappropriated." This was written in 1833. It is also +on record that Wyatt formed a scheme to re-open the great western +doorway of the cathedral by the pulling down of the Galilee Chapel, from +which he intended constructing a carriage-drive to the castle. This +abomination was actually commenced when Dean Cornwallis arrived, and he, +with the assistance of John Carter, and the Society of Antiquaries, was +fortunately able to put a stop to it. Thus was this beautiful and unique +specimen of Transitional Norman architecture preserved to us. + +Wyatt contemplated several other "improvements" of a similar character, +one of which was the surmounting of the central tower by a spire, but +fortunately he was not allowed to carry them out. + +During the present century many restorations have been made, of which we +will mention only the most notable:--The central tower was restored by +Sir Gilbert Scott in 1859. + +During 1870 to 1876 extensive internal alterations were made. A new +choir screen and pulpit were erected, the floor of the choir laid in +marble mosaic, the choir stalls returned to their original positions, +and the walls of the church scraped in order to clear them from the many +coats of lime and distemper which lay on them. + +[Illustration: The West End (from an Old Print).] + +The Norman chapter-house has lately been restored and in great part +rebuilt as a memorial to the late Bishop Lightfoot. + + + + +[Illustration: The Exterior, From Palace Green.] + +CHAPTER II + +DESCRIPTION OF THE EXTERIOR + + +Approaching the Cathedral Church of Durham from the north by the large +open space between it and the Castle, known as the Palace Green, we +obtain a complete elevation of the whole structure. There is little room +to doubt, though the details naturally vary with the date of erection, +that the original plan of Carileph's church has been carried out in its +entirety, with two exceptions. These are the addition of the eastern +transept or nine altar chapel at the east, and the Galilee or Lady +Chapel at the west end. The entire length of the building, not including +the Galilee chapel, is 431 feet, which is made up as follows:--Nine +altar chapel 51 feet, the choir 120 feet, the transept 57 feet, and the +nave 203 feet. + +The #Western Towers# are square and solid, and were evidently +included in Carileph's own scheme, as the wall arcades on both the +interior and exterior are carried round them. The Norman work is +continued as far as the nave roof, and it is extremely probable that +they were originally terminated at this height, in accordance with the +Norman custom, with low pyramidal spires, probably of wood. Exactly at +what date they were raised is not on record, but the style of +architecture of the upper portion suggests the early part of the +thirteenth century. The added portion, namely that above the +clerestory, consists of four stages, and is beautifully varied by +moulded arcading, with blind and open arches. The first and third stages +have pointed arches, while those of the second and fourth are round. +Above this again were tall wooden spires covered with lead. These were +removed about the year 1657, and towards the close of the eighteenth +century the present pinnacles and open parapets were added. At this +time, also, much of the surface of the towers was renewed. + +The #Central Tower.#--The present central tower is noble in +proportion, and forms a fitting and harmonious summit to the whole +group. It must needs be of a very different character from the old +Norman tower, of which no trace now remains; and was most probably of +the usual type, low and square, and surmounted by a short pyramidal +spire. The existing structure may be attributed to Bishop Booth and +Prior Richard Bell, about 1474, when the letter previously quoted was +written. Externally the tower is divided into two storeys. The lower +portion contains, on each side, a pair of two-light windows, glazed, +each divided by a transom, and their heads having an ogee label +crocketed and finished with a tall finial also crocketed. Between and on +either side of these windows are panelled pilasters and brackets +carrying figures. The lower and upper stages are divided by a narrow +external gallery running round the tower, and protected by a pierced, +embattled parapet. This is known as the Bell Ringers' Gallery, and +certainly adds greatly to the effect of the tower as a whole. The upper +stage, which is much less lofty, has also two two-light windows on each +face, surmounted by crocketed ogee label mouldings and finials. These +lights are louvred. The whole is surmounted by a deep open-work parapet. +On each angle of the tower are two buttresses, which are decorated with +panelling and canopied and crocketed niches containing figures. The +interior of the tower or lantern is remarkable for the gallery which +runs round it, which is reached from the roofs of the nave and choir +transepts by doors. It rests on corbels, each alternate one being carved +with grotesque heads, and is protected by a parapet pierced in +quatrefoils. The four doorways are ogee-headed, with crockets and +finials. There is strong evidence in the construction of the present +tower that it was the original intention to surmount it by some other +erection, probably a spire. Each interior angle contains strong and +massive squinches which are of no constructive use at present, and must +have been originally inserted to carry some superstructure. The +buttresses at the angles are also carried up to the parapet, which would +seem to point to the same conclusion. Why this project was never carried +out cannot be said, but probably it would not have added to the artistic +effect of the tower. The belfry contains a peal of eight bells. + +[Illustration: The Central Tower.] + +The #East Front.#--The circumstances which led to the removal of +Carileph's apses and the erection of the eastern transept have +already been referred to. The present east end is divided into three +bays by massive buttresses, each of which contains three lofty lancet +windows separated by smaller buttresses. Over all, and in the gable, is +the famous large rose window. The north and south ends of the transept +are finished with the tall pyramidal pinnacles erected by Wyatt. + +The #West Front# of Durham has, curiously enough, also lost its +original character. The western doorway of the cathedral is hidden on +the exterior by the Galilee or Lady Chapel, which was added by Pudsey in +1175. Above the Galilee roof is the large window inserted about the year +1346, while John Fossor was prior. The pointed arch of this window has +over it, on the exterior, the original great semi-circular arch. Above +this again, and between the two flanking western towers, is a small +gable. The west end of the cathedral, when seen from the opposite side +of the river, is extremely picturesque. The projecting mass of the +Galilee, the western towers, the foreshortened nave roof, and the +majestic central tower behind and above, form a group of high and rare +excellence. + +The #North Door# is now the principal entrance to the cathedral. +Externally the present porch is the work of Wyatt. The first porch was +Norman, of four orders depth, with detached shafts in the recesses. +Above this was a high-pitched gable and roof, the front being ornamented +with a semi-circular-headed wall arcading. The inner side of the doorway +is of two orders only, and is probably the only remaining portion of the +original. The outer shaft is left plain, while the inner one, in each +case, is most elaborately carved. The capitals are all carved, and the +arch moulds richly ornamented with chevrons, foliage, and lozenges, as +well as many curious figure subjects. While examining this doorway, +notice should be taken of the ironwork of the door itself, and +particularly of the sanctuary knocker. In mediaeval times all churches +afforded sanctuary to wrong-doers, but at places where the shrines of +saints existed the sanctuary privileges were much greater. Durham being +one of these, there are many curious cases on record of persons claiming +the privilege, and protection from the secular law. The earliest +instance, of which any record has been kept, of sanctuary being claimed +at the shrine of S. Cuthbert is during the episcopate of Cynewulf, who +was bishop from 740 to 748, and the last recorded was in 1524. Criminals +claiming sanctuary were admitted by two janitors, who occupied two +small chambers over the doorway, traces of which may still be observed. +The knocker itself, as may be seen from the illustration, is a great +grotesque head, made of bronze, and hanging from its grinning mouth is a +ring. Originally, there is no doubt, the eyes were filled with crystals +or enamel, as small claw-like pieces of bronze remain by which the +filling was attached. The age of this piece of work is probably the same +as that of the doorway itself. + +[Illustration: Detail Of Ironwork.] + +[Illustration: The Sanctuary Knocker.] + +[Illustration: Ironwork On Doors of Cloisters.] + +The #South Doorways.#--There are two doorways into the south aisle, +one, known as the Monks' Door, opening from the western portion of the +cloisters and immediately opposite the north porch just described. On +the cloister side this shows a Norman arch resting on double shafts, +which are enriched with a lozenge pattern. On the inner or aisle side +there are two orders, with shafts in the recesses, which are also +decorated with the lozenge. The inner arch is carved with chevrons, and +the outer with conventional foliage and medallions. The capitals are +richly carved with foliage and grotesques. On the abacus and arch of +this doorway occurs a leaf pattern strongly suggesting the Byzantine +influence which at one time was found in Norman decoration. Here again, +on the door itself, we have a fine specimen of very elaborate and +characteristic Norman iron-work. The second, known as the Priors' Door, +opens into the south aisle from the eastern alley of the cloister, is +also Norman. The outer or cloister side is of the time of Bishop Pudsey, +and has an arch of four orders, with three shafts in the recesses on +either side. Its once elaborate sculpture is now much decayed, not +enough remaining to suggest that in its original state this doorway must +have been a noble specimen of the architectural design of its period. On +the inner side it exhibits work of Carileph's time, with an early arch, +cushion capitals, and shafts. + +[Illustration: Ornament On South Doorway.] + +The #Western Doorway.#--The exterior of this great doorway is now within +the Galilee chapel. It was built by Flambard (1099-1128), and is +comparatively plain. On the Galilee side it consists of an arch of four +orders ornamented with chevrons. The inner face is very similar to the +outer, but is shallower, having only two orders. The shafts and capitals +are without decoration, and the arch ornamented with chevron and a leaf +pattern with medallions carved with grotesque animals. In order to +reopen this doorway and make a carriage road up to it, Wyatt proposed +pulling down the Galilee chapel. + +[Illustration: The Cloister.] + +The #Cloister# occupies a large open space, bounded on the south, +east, and west by the various monastic buildings, and on the north by +the cathedral itself. The existing cloister was commenced during the +time of Bishop Skirlaw (1388 to 1406), and was completed by Cardinal +Langley (who held the see from 1406 till 1438), probably in the earlier +part of his episcopate. The contracts (the first dated 1398) for +building the cloister are still preserved in the treasury. We are +indebted to Bishop Skirlaw for their very existence, as it is recorded +that he contributed sums of money for this purpose, both during his life +and by his will. The cloister, as seen to-day, has been very much +altered and restored, and probably the only original feature remaining +is the fine oaken ceiling. This is panelled, and moulded, and decorated +with shields, upon which are painted and gilded various coats of arms. +In the centre of the cloister garth are the remains of what was the +monks' lavatory. It was erected in the years 1432 and 1433, and was of +octagonal shape. Some of the stone for its construction was brought from +Egglestone-on-Tees, on payment of rent to the abbot of that place to +quarry it. It is said to have had twenty-four brass spouts, seven +windows, and in its upper storey a dovecote, the roof of which was +covered with lead. + +There is no doubt that there was a cloister attached to the monastery in +its early days, but of this no trace remains. It is also probable that +one was erected by Bishop Pudsey, though this also has entirely +vanished, unless (as suggested by Canon Greenwell) some marks of a +lean-to roof on the north and east walls may be traces of its presence. +In the western alley of the cloister is the old treasury, rich in +records, and the vestries for canons, king's scholars, and choristers. +The alley opens at the end into what is now called the crypt (see p. +85). This was undoubtedly the common hall of the monks. It is a spacious +stone-vaulted chamber. The columns are low and massive, with simple +moulded caps, from which the chamfered vaulting ribs diverge. Over the +hall or crypt is the dormitory, which for a long time formed part of a +residence attached to one of the stalls. It is now, however, used as a +library. It occupies the whole of the western side of the cloister, and +is 194 feet long. It was originally subdivided, by wooden partitions, +into separate sleeping-rooms for each monk. Its massive roof of oak is +worthy of attention, the tree trunks being merely roughly squared with +an axe (see p. 99). + +In the south alley was the refectory and the monks' common dining-hall. +The original building is now entirely altered, though there remains +beneath it a very early crypt, with plain, short square piers, and a +simple quadripartite vault without ribs. Another portion is covered by a +wagon-head vault. Whether the original refectory was of similar +architectural character it is now impossible to say, as, whatever it may +have been, it was removed early in the sixteenth century and rebuilt, +and after the dissolution of the monastery was used by the Minor Canons +of the church as a common hall. It seems to have fallen into a bad state +of repair, and was again entirely reconstructed by Dean Sudbury +(1661-1684), who was elected to that office immediately after the +Restoration. He converted it into a library, to which use it is still +put. The account of this building, given in the "Antiquities of Durham," +is of sufficient interest to bear quotation. + + "In the _South_ Alley of the Cloysters," says our authority, "is a + large Hall, called the Frater-house, finely wainscotted on the + _North_ and _South_ sides; and in the _West_ and nether Part + thereof, is a long Bench of Stone in Mason-work, from the Cellar + Door to the Pantry or Cove Door: Above the Bench is Wainscot Work + two Yards and a Half high, finely carved, and set with imboss'd Work + in Wainscot, and gilded under the carved Work. Above the Wainscot + was a large Picture of our Saviour Christ, the blessed Virgin + _Mary_, and _S. John_, in fine gilt Work, and most excellent + Colours; which Pictures having been washed over with Lime did long + appear through it. This Wainscot had engraven on the Top of it, + _Thomas Castell_, Prior, Anno Domini, 1518 Mensis Julij. Whence it + is manifest that Prior _Castell_ wainscotted the Frater-house round + about. + + "Within the Frater-house Door, on the Left Hand at entering, is a + strong Almery in the Wall, wherein a great Mazer, called the Grace + Cup, stood, which every day served the Monks after Grace, to drink + out of round the Table; which cup was finely edged about with + Silver, and double Gilt. In the same place were kept many large and + great Mazers of the same sort.... Every Monk had his Mazer severally + by himself to drink in, and had all other Things that served the + whole Convent, and the Frater-house in their daily Service, at their + Diet, and at their Table.... At these Times (at meals) the Master + observed these wholesom and godly Orders, for the continual + instruction of their Youth in Virtue and Learning; that is, one of + the Novices appointed by the Master, read some Part of the Old and + New Testament in Latin, during Dinner, having a convenient place at + the _South_ End of the High Table, within a beautiful Glass Window, + encompass'd with Iron, and certain Stone Steps, with Iron Rails to + go up to an Iron Desk, whereon lay the Holy Bible.... + + "This Fabrick retained the Name of the Petty Canons' Hall till _Dr + Sudbury_, Dean of the Cathedral, generously erected a beautiful + Library in its Place; but he not living to finish it compleatly, did + by (a clause) in his Last Will, bind his Heir, _Sir John Sudbury_, + to the due Execution thereof." + +[Illustration: S. Cuthbert's Chest.] + +The contents of the library are both numerous and interesting. There are +several thousands of volumes, many of them being rare and valuable. +Numerous ancient illuminated MSS., among which is a copy of the Gospels +of S. Mark, S. Luke, and S. John, written before the year 700; and +several books given by Bishops Carileph and Pudsey. Among the latter is +a Bible, in four volumes, in its original stamped leather binding. A +collection of ancient copes belonging to the cathedral, and the remains +of the robes of S. Cuthbert, and other relics taken from his coffin when +it was exhumed, in 1827, may also be seen here. Numerous specimens of +Roman altars, tablets, and sculptured stones, from various Roman +stations in Durham and Northumberland, notably from Hexham, are +preserved in this library, which is open to the public on Tuesday and +Friday in each week from eleven to one. The room is finely proportioned, +and has a magnificent open timber roof. + +[Illustration: The Chapter-House.] + +The #Chapter-House# opens upon the eastern alley of the cloister. The +present building is a very recent restoration of the original, which is +acknowledged to have been the finest existing Norman chapter-house +remaining in England. It was erected, or more probably completed, during +the time of Bishop Galfrid Rufus (1133-1140), and was in existence until +1796, during the episcopate of Bishop Barrington. At that time it was +almost totally destroyed, on the advice of Wyatt, who reported to the +chapter that it was in a ruinous state. The truth of this report is +doubtful, but the partial demolition of the building was ordered in +November 1795, and also the construction of a new room on the site. The +work of destruction was begun by knocking out the keystones of the +vaulting and allowing the roof to fall in. The eastern half of the +building was then altogether removed, and the remaining portion enclosed +by a wall. Its interior was faced with lath and plaster, a plaster +ceiling and a boarded floor being added. Fortunately authentic records +of its original appearance, both exterior and interior, are in +existence. They are the drawings made for the Society of Antiquaries by +John Carter in 1795. Its dimensions were 78 by 35 feet; the east end +being apsidal and the roof a vault of one span. Round the wall of the +interior ran a stone bench raised on two steps, which was surmounted, +except at the west end, by a wall arcade, of round-headed intersecting +arches, similar to that in the aisles of the cathedral, but with single +instead of double shafts. Above the arcade was a string course carved +with zig-zag ornament. The entrance was from the west end, and the east +end was occupied by two seats, one for the bishop and one for the prior. +In the apse were five three-light windows of the Decorated period, and +above the western door a five-light Perpendicular window, which +contained coloured glass, illustrating the "Root of Jesse." On either +side of this was a window of two lights, divided by a shaft and enclosed +under one arch, carved with chevron ornament. There was also a +round-headed Norman window in each of the north and south walls. A +doorway in the south wall led to three chambers, one larger, and two +smaller, which are stated in the "Rites of Durham" to have been used as +a prison for the monks. The chapter-house was used in early times as a +burial-place for the bishops, and many of their graves with inscriptions +were in existence previous to the demolition of 1796. During excavations +in 1874, the graves of Bishops Flambard, Galfrid Rufus, S. Barbara, de +Insula, and Kellaw were opened, when various rings and the head of a +crozier were discovered and removed to the dean and chapter library. + +The chapter-house has now been entirely restored as a memorial to the +late Bishop Lightfoot. + +The #Northern Alley# of the Cloister, running along the south wall of +the church, contains little of interest, except the two doorways +previously described. + +The effect of the cloister as a whole, in its original condition, with +the windows glazed, many containing fine stained glass, the oak roof +with its heraldry and colour, and the lavatory in the centre of the +garth, must have been exceptionally fine. + +[Illustration: The Exterior, from the South-east.] + +A sculptured panel on the north-west turret of the Nine Altar Chapel is +now known as the #Dun Cow#. The original sculpture was replaced in +the last century by the existing panel, but the legend connected with it +is interesting. After their flight from Chester-le-Street, the monks, +bearing the body of S. Cuthbert, remained some time at Ripon. While +trying to return to Chester-le-Street, at a place called Wardlaw, the +coffin stuck fast, and remained absolutely fixed. A fast of three days +was proclaimed and kept, when it was revealed to them that they were to +carry their saint to Dunholme. Still they were in difficulties, not +knowing where Dunholme was, but fortune, or Providence, again favoured +them. A woman, who had lost a cow, passed, calling to a companion to +inquire if she had seen the animal. The reply was that her cow was in +Dunholme; and, to the relief of the monks, they and their precious +charge soon safely arrived there. In grateful commemoration of the +incident Flambard erected this monument of a milkmaid and her cow. (See +p. 9.) + +The exterior of Durham Cathedral as a whole may at first sight be +disappointing to the visitor. Seen from a near view there is a certain +flatness of effect and want of light and shade which is, perhaps, +slightly unpleasant. This is, however, largely attributable to the +scaling and scraping process to which the building was subjected during +the last century, when some inches of the outer surface of the stone, +and with it much architectural detail, were removed. The result is the +flatness previously alluded to, and a general newness of appearance +pervades the structure. Seen, however, from a distance, where only the +finely-grouped and proportioned masses of masonry, towers, and turrets +stand against the sky, the result is magnificent, giving an impression +of grandeur and dignity unsurpassed by any other English cathedral. + + + + +[Illustration: The Nave, looking West.] + +CHAPTER III + +DESCRIPTION OF THE INTERIOR + + +If the exterior of Durham is in any way disappointing, the interior more +than compensates for its shortcomings. The general impression on +entering the church is one of simple dignity and solemnity. The great +massiveness of the structure and absence of elaborate ornament no doubt +contribute to this feeling. The pious builders of old have certainly +contrived to stamp on their work their own feeling of awe in the +presence of the All-Powerful and Eternal God. Whatever has been lost +through vandalism and the restorer, this remains unaltered. The general +design of the church, exclusive of detail, which, of course, changed and +developed with the progress of Gothic art, has undoubtedly been carried +out on the plan intended by Bishop Carileph, the only important +variation being the addition of the transept at the east end, known as +the Nine Altars Chapel. The original plan consists of a nave and aisles, +transepts with aisles on their eastern side, a choir also with aisles, +and the three apses of the east end, with a central tower over the +junction of transepts, nave, and choir, and towers flanking the west +end. + +[Illustration: One Bay Of The Nave (Measured Drawing).] + +Each bay of the #Nave# is divided into two sub-bays. The main bays +have massive piers with engaged shafts on the recessed faces. The bases +of these are cruciform in plan, though the arms of the cross are very +short. At the height of the springing of the arch the shafts are +surmounted by plain cushion capitals. The division into sub-bays is +effected by the introduction midway of a massive round column on a +square base. These columns are ornamented in various ways, by channels +cut on the face. Some take the form of a zig-zag, some a spiral, others +a spiral in two directions, forming a trellis-like pattern, and others +again are reeded vertically. Their capitals are octagonal cushions. The +arches of the sub-bays are recessed square, with the usual Norman roll +moulding, decorated with chevrons, and on the wall face a square billet. +The chevron ornament is absent in the earlier work in the choir and +transepts. The triforium is almost uniform throughout the whole church. +In each sub-bay it consists of two small arches under one larger one, +with the tympanum solid. Here also the capitals are cushions and +perfectly plain. + +[Illustration: Triforium and Clerestory.] + +Above the triforium is the clerestory, which contains one light to each +sub-bay, and surmounting all is the vaulting, which springs from the +piers and from grotesquely carved corbels between the triforium arches. +The vaulting ribs are ornamented with chevrons on either side of a bold +semi-circular moulding. So much for the general arrangement of the bays. +Some idea of the massiveness of the structures may be gathered when it +is known that each group of the clustered pillars separating the bays +covers an area of two hundred and twenty-five square feet at its base, +while those of the cylindrical columns of the sub-bays are twelve feet +square, and the columns themselves have a circumference of over +twenty-three feet. There is little room to doubt that the effect +obtained by the old builders of Durham was intentional. The masterly way +in which great masses of solid masonry, greater than was constructively +necessary, are handled, and the reticence and delicacy of the ornament +combine to prove this. There is in the whole scheme a delightful union +of great power and vigour in the masses, and of tenderness and loving +care in the detail. + +The #Choir# is the earliest part of the church. Its two western bays +show Carileph's work, but the eastern piers have been considerably +altered owing to the addition at a later period of the eastern transept, +when Carileph's apses were taken down. This bay contains some very rich +and beautiful detail. The piers on either side of the choir are +decorated with arcades, the lower stage having six arches, and the upper +three, all richly carved with foliage in the caps and hood moulds, and +with heads and half figures. There is also a square aumbry on each pier. +Above the upper arcade, which breaks through the level of the triforium +string course, which is also carried round it, there is on each pier a +figure of an angel beneath a canopy. These are the only two figures +remaining of many which formerly added to the beauty of the interior of +the church. The vaulting of the choir is thirteenth-century work, +quadripartite, the ribs decorated with dog-tooth ornament and square +leaves, and has fine bosses at the intersections of the diagonal ribs. +The choir of Durham is especially interesting to the student of +architecture, showing as it does the Early Norman work of Carileph, +combined with the Early English and Early Decorated work of the newer +eastern portion. + +On the south side of the choir stands the monument of Bishop Hatfield, +who directed the see of Durham from 1345 until 1381. This monument is +beneath the Episcopal Throne, which was erected by Bishop Hatfield +himself. It consists of an altar tomb surmounted by a recumbent effigy +of the bishop, in richly-worked robes, beneath a canopy, richly groined, +with foliated bosses at the intersections of the ribs. On the walls at +the east and west ends may still be seen the remains of fresco painting, +representing in each case two angels. Beneath the staircase leading up +to the throne is a very fine decorated arcade, containing several +shields bearing the bishop's and other arms. The whole structure was +originally richly coloured and gilded, and remains of this work can +still be made out. It is a noble specimen of the work of its date. + +Immediately opposite the tomb of Bishop Hatfield, on the north side of +the choir, the visitor will notice the recently-erected memorial to the +late Bishop Lightfoot. This is an altar tomb of black and coloured +marble. The sides are ornamented with panels of Perpendicular tracery +containing shields. Round the upper mouldings runs a Latin inscription +in brass. The whole is surmounted by a recumbent figure of the bishop in +white marble, his hands on his breast, and his feet resting against +three books. Originally designed by Sir Edgar Boehm, R.A., at his death +the monument was completed by Alfred Gilbert, R.A. + +The beautiful altar screen is usually known as the #Neville Screen,# +and was erected about the year 1380, mainly from moneys supplied by +John, Lord Neville of Raby. It spans the whole of the choir, and is +continued along the sides of the sacrarium, forming sedilia of four +seats on either side. It is pierced by two doors, which lead to the +shrine of S. Cuthbert, immediately behind the screen. Though very light +and graceful in appearance, the screen, as it is at present, can give +the beholder little idea of what its appearance must have been when +each of its canopied niches contained a figure aglow with gold and +colour. There were originally 107 of these statues, the centre one +representing Our Lady, supported on either side by S. Cuthbert and S. +Oswald. Unfortunately none of the figures remain _in situ_. + +Immediately in front of the steps of the high altar will be seen the +matrix of a large brass. It covers the grave of Ludovick de Bellomonte, +Bishop of Durham from 1318 to 1333. The slab, which is in two pieces, +measures fifteen feet ten inches by nine feet seven inches, and an +examination will show the brass to have been an elaborate and sumptuous +composition. Unfortunately all the metal work has disappeared. + +The #Stalls,# as they originally existed, were destroyed in 1650 by +the Scottish prisoners, who were kept in the cathedral after the battle +of Dunbar. The present stalls we owe to Bishop Cosin (1660 to 1672), and +they are remarkable pieces of carving for that date. In general +character they imitate Perpendicular work, though the details do not +adhere altogether to that style. + +Before leaving this part of the church a note may be devoted to the +alterations and additions made during the years 1870 to 1876. A new +screen between the nave and choir was then erected; the choir floor +relaid with marble mosaic; the stalls replaced in their old positions, +and new portions made to replace those destroyed in 1846. A new organ, +pulpit, and lectern were also added. + +The new #Choir Screen# is very much open to criticism. Though no +doubt beautiful in detail, and of excellent workmanship, its effect, as +a whole, is not pleasant, when seen from the west end silhouetted +against the light of the choir. A screen previously existed in this +position erected by Bishop Cosin. This was removed in 1846, with the +idea of improving the appearance of the church from the west end by +obtaining a "vista" through to the Neville screen and rose window of the +eastern transept. The effect seems, however, to have been disappointing, +hence the erection of the present screen, which may or may not have +improved matters. In the two western piers of the choir holes may be +seen cut in the stonework. These received the rood-beam from which, +during Lent, the Lenten curtain was suspended. + +[Illustration: The Choir, looking West.] + +The #North Aisle of the Choir,# again, shows the joining and +harmonising of the "new work" of the eastern transept with the earlier +Norman work. Inside the church the most easterly bay appears to be +altogether of Early English date; but on the exterior it will be seen +that the Norman wall runs right up to the western wall of the eastern +transept. The interior of the bay, however, is enriched with a wall +arcade similar to that in the Nine Altars Chapel, and the arch and vault +are decorated with foliage and dog-tooth ornament. + +Along the side wall of this aisle runs a stone bench bearing the arms of +Bishop Walter de Skirlaw (1388 to 1405), near which he was buried, but +his monument and brass, erected by himself, have disappeared. + +Slightly westward of the bench is a doorway which at one time opened +into the Sacrist's Exchequer, erected by Prior Wessington, but it has +long ago been destroyed. + +The piers of the west end of this aisle bear marks which were originally +holes cut in the stone. These served to support a porch, having a rood +and altar, which is thus described in the "Rites of Durham": + + "Right over the Entrance of this North Alleye, going to the Songe + Scoole (the Exchequer mentioned above) there was a porch adjoyninge + to the quire on the South, and S. Benedick's altar on the North, the + porch having in it an altar, and the roode or picture of our + Saviour, which altar and roode was much frequented in devotion by + Docteur Swalwell, sometime monk of Durham, the said roode havinge + marveilous sumptuous furniture for festivall dayes belonginge to + it." + +The #South Aisle Of the Choir# is similar architecturally to the +north aisle. Here may be seen a doorway, of late thirteenth-century +work, which originally led to the revestry, now destroyed. + +Here again the eastern piers bear marks left by holes in the stonework, +which originally earned the supports of a screen, in front of which the +Black Rood of Scotland, which was taken from King David at the battle of +Neville's Cross (1346), was placed. The rood is described as having been +brought from Holyrood by David Bruce, and was made of silver, with +effigies of our Saviour, S. John, and Our Lady, having crowns of gold on +their heads. The Black Rood was restored to its original possessors at +the close of the war. + +The windows of both the choir aisles originally contained very fine old +stained glass, representing various saints, and scenes in the life of S. +Cuthbert. + +The #Transepts.#--Leaving the choir by its western end the visitor at +once enters the transepts. A large portion of these, including the great +piers and arches which carry the central tower, are, without doubt, of +the time of Carileph. The eastern side of both is certainly his work, +while the western is probably the building which was carried on by the +monks in the interval between Carileph's death, in 1096, and the +appointment of Flambard to the see in 1099. The work on the eastern +sides differs little from that of the choir, while that of the western +sides, being plainer, has been thought by some to indicate a want of +means on the part of the monks, while carrying on the work in the +interval just alluded to. Each transept consists of two bays, with an +aisle on the eastern side, access to which is gained by the ascent of +three steps. + +Each of the three sub-bays nearest the north and south extremities +originally contained an altar, those in the north transept being +dedicated to S. Nicholas and S. Giles, S. Gregory and S. Benedict. Over +the site of the latter may still be seen remains of fresco painting. The +altars in the south transept were dedicated--one to S. Faith and S. +Thomas the Apostle, one to our Lady of Bolton and the other to our Lady +of Houghall. The north transept is closed by a large window, which is +the work of Prior Fossor, probably about the year 1362. The window is of +six lights, and the head contains late geometrical tracery. The +architectural feature of this window, especially for its date, is the +transom which crosses the mullions, and which is not visible from the +exterior. Below the transom is a second inner set of mullions supporting +a small gallery, by means of which access may be had to the triforium. +In the year 1512 the window was repaired by Prior Castell, who filled it +with stained glass containing large figures, among others of S. +Augustine, S. Ambrose, S. Gregory, and S. Jerome. From this circumstance +the window became known as the window of the Four Doctors of the Church. +Prior Castell also contrived to introduce a figure of himself kneeling +at the feet of the Virgin. The large window at the end of the south +transept, also named from the glass it contained, the _Te Deum_ window, +is in the Perpendicular style, and is of six lights. It may possibly +have been the work of Prior Wessington, 1416 to 1446. Along the sill of +this window also access may be had to the triforium. + +[Illustration: The Transepts, looking North.] + +Both the north-west and south-west corners of the transepts contain +stairways, opening at their various levels on to the triforium, +clerestory, and the space between the vaulting and the roof. That in the +south transept also gives access to the central tower and belfry, an +ascent of which, if the day be clear, will repay the visitor for his +fatiguing climb of three hundred and forty steps by the magnificent view +spread at his feet. The transepts were no doubt the earliest part of the +building to be vaulted; that of the northern arm being plain is probably +the earlier, while that of the south arm, though of similar character, +has zig-zag ornaments. Several of the priors of Durham were buried in +the transepts, the first, Prior Fossor, 1364, and the last, Robert +Ebchester, who died in 1484. + +On the piers of the transepts projecting brackets may be noticed. These +are of Perpendicular date, and originally carried statues. + +The crossing, or space between the four piers supporting the central +tower, gives us a fine view of the interior of the lantern. + +The #Tower# is carried on four large clustered Norman piers with +semi-circular arches. Over the arches, and seventy-seven feet above the +floor of the church, is the lower stage of the lantern, round which is a +gallery with an open pierced parapet. It rests on corbels, each +alternate one being carved with a grotesque head. The walls are panelled +up to the base of the great windows,--each panel having two cinquefoiled +arches under a crocketed canopy and final; while between them are small +buttresses, also panelled, and ending in a finial which reaches the same +height as the canopy. Over the panelling is a string course ornamented +with that characteristic ornament of the Perpendicular period, the Tudor +flower, and above this on each face two tall windows near together. Each +window has two lights, and is divided by a transom. The roof of the +lantern is groined, with fine bosses at the intersections of the ribs. +The whole seen from below has a very fine effect, and must be very +different in appearance from the original Norman structure. The whole of +the lantern was refaced, and the statues which had been removed from +their niches were replaced, some thirty years ago, by the Dean and +Chapter of Durham. + +[Illustration: Corbel in Choir.] + +The #Norman East End.#--The original form of the Norman east end has +long been the subject of discussion and conjecture. It was practically +safe to assume that the choir ended in an apse, though whether the +aisles were also apsidal, or continued round a great apse as an +ambulatory, was a debatable point. This question has now been finally +settled. + +[Illustration: The Choir, looking East.] During some operations +necessitating the opening of the floor, in January 1895, certain +indications were found which led the diocesan architect, Mr C.H. Fowler, +and Canon Greenwell to continue the excavation. The result was the +discovery that Carileph's church certainly possessed three apses--a +large one terminating the choir, and smaller ones the aisles. The apses +of the aisles were square externally, and apsidal internally. The great +apse consisted of five bays, one on either side next to the choir, +forming an oblong between the choir and the springing line of the curve +of the apse, over which would be the great sanctuary arch. The +remainder, or apse proper, was divided into three bays by engaged +clustered shafts, similar to those of the choir and nave. It was +surrounded by a wall arcade of the same character as that of the rest of +the church. The base of one of the shafts of the arcade was found in +position. An extremely interesting point in this discovery is the fact +that the levels are the same as those of the nave and choir. The +foundations are on the rock at the same depth, and the aisle walls and +apse walls are in the same line. The external square line of the aisle +apses is in line with the springing of the choir apse. The foundations +of the apse to the north aisle have been thoroughly excavated, and there +is every reason to believe that that on the south side of the church +entirely corresponds. The width of the north aisle apse from north to +south is nine feet eight inches. There can be little doubt, judging from +the remainder of Carileph's work, that all three apses were covered with +stone vaults, though of precisely what character can only be a matter of +conjecture. The cracking, previously spoken of, which led to this part +of the church being taken down and the new eastern transept being +erected, cannot have arisen from any subsidence of the foundations. It, +in all probability, was the result of the thrust of the apse vaults on +to walls which were insufficiently buttressed. The marks on some of the +stones found during this excavation, and the shape of others, seem to +point to the conclusion that here we have the earliest part of the +church, and that Carileph used up in his foundations much of the stone +of Aldhun's White Church. + +Of the two usual eastern endings to Norman churches--viz. those with +three apses, and those having the aisle carried round as an +ambulatory--the latter is far more common in England, and the former on +the Continent. There are two other notable instances of the three +apsidal arrangement in England: S. Albans, 1077, which is earlier than +Durham; and Peterboro', 1117, which is later than, and was probably +modelled on, Durham. There are many examples of ambulatories--the White +Tower Church (London), Winchester, Gloucester, Worcester, and Norwich +being among them. + +[Illustration: Corbel in Choir.] + +The apses of Durham are of considerable depth from east to west, the +oblong bay previously mentioned, which is fourteen feet wide in that +direction, adding greatly to this effect. The width of the foundations +is fourteen feet, and the width of the wall has been seven feet. The +diameter of the choir apse from north to south was about thirty-two +feet. + +[Illustration: Plan of Norman East End.] + +These discoveries are specially interesting, completing as they do the +whole chain, and leading us with very little imagination to see in its +original condition what must have been, and may even now claim to be, +the most noble example of Norman architecture in our country. + +[Illustration: Triforium of Nave and Choir.] + +[Illustration: Capital in the Nine Altars Chapel.] + +The #Nine Altars Chapel.#--Leaving the consideration of what once +occupied the site of the east end of Durham, we will turn our attention +to the beautiful erection which now stands there, the eastern transept, +or, as it is named from the altars of the saints it once contained +beneath its windows, the Chapel of the Nine Altars. It is approached +from the aisles by steps, the floor level being lower than that of the +church proper. It is altogether a remarkable and interesting structure. +With its lightness and loftiness contrasting grandly with the massive +Norman nave and choir, its clustered columns of polished marble +alternating with stone, its fine bold sculpture, its splendid vaulted +roof and rich arcading, it forms a perfect example of the Early English +style. Though regular and symmetrical in general design, the detail +shows great variety, and even irregularity, a quality so often present +in old work, and so much to its advantage. In general character it may +be compared with that at Fountains Abbey, which was built during the +same time. + +[Illustration: Capital in the Nine Altars Chapel.] + +The circumstances leading to its erection have been already referred to. +The Norman apses having been partly removed, owing to their dangerous +condition, the "New Work," as it was always called, was commenced in the +year 1242. The eastern wall, with its rose and nine lancet windows, is +the earliest part of the chapel, the north and south walls being later. +The joining and blending of the work with the Norman of Carileph's choir +had evidently been accomplished when the chapel was almost completed. +The eastern wall is of three bays, each bay having three lofty lancet +windows. The bays are not of equal width, the centre one being regulated +by the width of the nave of the church, and narrower than the north and +south bays. + +[Illustration: Sections of Hood and Arch Mouldings.] + +A very beautiful arcade runs completely round the walls. It is of +trefoil arches, deeply and richly moulded, supported on marble columns +carved with foliage. Over the arches is a hood mould terminating with +heads. In the spandrels are a series of deeply-sunk and moulded +quatrefoils, two of which contain sculpture. The bases of the columns +rest on a plinth. Surmounting this arcade is a moulded string, from the +level of which rise the windows, and above the windows another string +course and a second range of windows. In the centre bay, however, is +the large rose window, which is over thirty feet in diameter. + +[Illustration: The Nine Altars Chapel.] + +The division of the chapel into three bays is effected by two main +vaulting arches, which spring on the western side from the piers of the +east end of the choir, and on the eastern side from responds of +clustered shafts alternately of marble and stone, banded at intervals +and having richly carved capitals. The arches themselves are deeply +moulded and ornamented with dog-tooth ornament and foliage. The vault of +the central bay has eight ribs--two springing from each of the clusters +just described, and two from each of the choir piers. The vaulting of +the remaining bays is quadripartite, but has peculiarities which are +worthy of notice, arising from inequality of width. We must not omit to +call attention to the exquisite sculpture of the vaulting. The centre +has figures of the Four Evangelists, while in the north is a beautifully +executed carving of vine and grapes, and in the south, figure subjects. +Among the sculptured heads on the wall arcade at the south end, at the +western side of the two bays into which the south wall is divided, are +two which are portraits of the men to whom we owe the design and +execution of the beautiful sculpture of this chapel. One is an elderly +man, the other much younger, and both wear linen dust-caps over their +heads. + +The nine lancet windows were originally filled with ancient stained +glass, which, as the reader will remember, was removed, Below each +window was an altar. They were dedicated a follows, beginning at the +south end of the chapel:-- + + 1. S. Andrew and S. Mary Magdalene. \ + 2. S. John the Baptist and S. Margaret. > South bay. + 3. S. Thomas of Canterbury and S. Catherine. / + + 4. S. Oswald and S. Lawrence. \ + 5. S. Cuthbert and S. Bede. > Middle bay. + 6. S. Martin. / + + 7. S. Peter and S. Paul. \ + 8. S. Aidan and S. Helen. > North bay. + 9. S. Michael the Archangel. / + +The rose window over the lancets of the middle bay is Wyatt's +"restoration" of the original one. It consists of an outer circle of +twenty-four and an inner circle of twelve radiating lights, the mullions +of which are received on a foliated circle in the centre. + +In the north wall of the chapel is a very fine window, known as the +Joseph window, on account of the stained glass it originally contained, +which illustrated the life-history of Joseph. It is a beautiful example +of Early Decorated or geometrical Gothic, and is of six lights. There is +an inner plane of tracery resting on clustered shafts, which is +connected to the mullions of the window proper by through stones. The +window occupies the complete width of the north end of the chapel. The +painted glass which it once contained is thus described in the "Rites of +Durham": + + "In the North Alley of the said Nine Altars, there is another goodly + faire great glass window, called Joseph's Window, the which hath in + it all the whole storye of Joseph, most artificially wrought in + pictures in fine coloured glass, accordinge as it is sett forth in + the Bible, verye good and godly to the beholders thereof." + +This window deserves the attention of the architectural student, as it +is an exceedingly fine specimen of the tracery of its date. + +The south wall of the chapel contains two windows, each divided by a +central mullion, and having an inner mullion connected by through +stones. They are widely splayed inwards, and separated by a group of +vaulting shafts. One or both of these windows contained stained glass, +with the history of the life and miracles of S. Cuthbert. As seen at +present, they contain tracery of the Perpendicular period, a restoration +of that inserted by Prior Wessington. Each window is of two lights, +crossed by a transom. Entry to the nine altars was provided for, as well +as from the choir and aisles, by two doors on the western side of its +north and south walls. The northern doorway is now walled up. They enter +through the wall arcade. The writer of the "Rites of Durham" says the +north door was made in order to bring in the body of Bishop Anthony Bek, +who is buried in the chapel. The architectural features of the doorway +would, however, seem to contradict this theory, and there is little room +to doubt that both north and south doorways formed part of the original +design of the structure. + +Before leaving this interesting portion of the building we must direct +our attention to its most important contents, the #Tomb of S. +Cuthbert#. This, as at present to be seen, is a great oblong +platform, thirty-seven feet long by twenty-three feet wide, and its +upper surface or floor six feet above the floor of the chapel. Beneath a +slab in the centre the bones of the patron saint rest. The shrine of S. +Cuthbert at one time stood upon this platform, but of that no vestige +remains. + +The floor of the platform is reached by two doors through the Neville +screen in the choir, and by a small stairway from the south aisle. The +wanderings of the monks of Lindisfarne with the body of their saint, +their many difficulties and trials, and their ultimate settlement at +Dunholme or Durham, have already been described. The shrine was +eventually set up in its present position by Bishop Carileph, in 1104, +when he brought it from the cloister garth from the tomb he had there +set up for its temporary reception, until his church was sufficiently +advanced to permit of its removal thither. It was visited by large +numbers of pilgrims, and many important personages were among them. Of +these may be mentioned William the Conqueror, Henry III. (1255), Edward +II. (1322), and Henry VI. (1448). The shrine was destroyed soon after +the surrender of the monastery to the Crown, in 1540, when the body was +buried beneath the place where its former receptacle had stood. There +have since this time been traditions that the exact place of the burial +was secret, and known only, according to one account, to three +Benedictine monks, who each handed the secret down to a successor. The +other tradition places the knowledge of the place of burial in the hands +of the Roman Catholic bishops of the Northern Province. One of these +traditions was made public in the year 1867, and gave the place of +interment as being under the second and third steps leading to the tower +from the south transept. This place was excavated and examined, but no +trace of any burial could be found there. It is to these traditions +that Scott refers, in _Marmion_, in the following lines:-- + + Chester-le-Street, and Ripon saw + His holy corpse, ere Wardilaw + Hailed him with joy and fear; + And after many wanderings past, + He chose his lordly seat at last, + Where his cathedral, huge and vast, + Looks down upon the Wear. + There deep in Durham's Gothic shade + His relics are in secret laid; + But none may know the place, + Save of his holiest servants three, + Deep sworn to solemn secrecy, + Who share that wondrous grace. + +In May 1827 the grave in the Nine Altars Chapel was opened in the +presence of two of the church dignitaries and other persons. Dr Raine, +who was also present, has left a careful account of the discoveries then +made.[3] The outer coffin, that made in 1542, was first removed, +revealing a second and much decayed coffin and many bones. After the +removal of these relics the lid of a third oak coffin was revealed, in a +very advanced state of decay. This innermost coffin was covered over its +entire surface with carvings of human figures, the heads surrounded by a +nimbus. When this coffin was removed the skeleton was exposed to view, +wrapped in coverings, the outer of which had been of linen. The robes +beneath were much decayed, and only portions of them could be preserved. +On the breast of the body, among the robes, a comb was found, answering +exactly to that described by Reginald in 1104. Among the most +interesting of the finds were a stole and maniple. + + [3] Raine. S. Cuthbert. + +The stole is of very early date, and is of needlework in colours and +gold. The centre design is a quatrefoil, inside which is a lamb with +nimbus, and the letters AGNV DI. On either side are figures of Old +Testament prophets, with their names. Near the ends the embroidery +occurs on both sides of the stole, on the back of one of which among +foliage is the inscription AELFFLAED FIERI PRECEPIT, which is continued +on the back of the opposite end, thus--PIO EPISCOPO FRIDESTANO. The +translation of this inscription is to the effect that Aelfled commanded +the stole to be made for the pious Bishop Frithestan. The maniple is of +a similar character, and also bears ornament, figures, and +inscriptions.[4] Frithestan was made Bishop of Winchester in 905. +Aelfled, who was Queen of Eadward, the son and successor of Alfred, died +in 916. It was therefore during these ten years that she caused this +stole and maniple to be made for the Bishop Frithestan. It is recorded +that the son and successor of Eadward, by name Athelstan, when on a +journey in the north visited Chester-le-Street and the shrine of S. +Cuthbert, which was then at that place. Among other presents he left as +offerings a stole and maniple, and a girdle and two bracelets of gold. +It is a curious fact that a girdle and two gold bracelets were found +along with the stole and maniple in the grave, in 1827, and leaves very +little doubt that they are the ones mentioned above. The bones of the +saint were quite intact, and none were missing. They were, with the +other relics, placed in a new coffin, and the grave re-covered. Some +portions of the inner coffin, with the stole, two maniples, the girdle +and bracelets and fragments of the robes are now carefully preserved in +the Dean and Chapter Library. A large gold cross found among the robes, +decorated with garnets, and of workmanship of the time of S. Cuthbert is +also preserved in the library. These discoveries seem to speak for +themselves, and to leave very little room for doubt that the body +exhumed and examined in 1827 was really that of the patron saint of the +church. + + [4] Photographs, coloured by the late J.I. Williamson, are + exhibited in the South Kensington Museum. + +There were also found in the grave bones of infants, supposed to be +relics of the Holy Innocents, and a skull, most probably that of S. +Oswald, which was known to have been placed in the coffin of S. +Cuthbert. + +Two smooth grooves may be observed on the platform, which are _said_ to +have been worn into the stone by the knees or feet of generations of +pilgrims visiting the shrine. + +There are several other tombs and monuments in this chapel, chiefly wall +tablets of not exceptional interest. At the north end, however, is a +colossal statue of the last of the prince bishops, Bishop van Mildert, +who died in 1836. The monument is of white marble, the figure seated on +a throne and holding a book. It was erected by public subscription, the +sculptor being John Gibson, R.A. Near this monument is a blue slab +covering the remains of Bishop Anthony Bek, patriarch of Jerusalem, who +died in 1310. It was to bring in the body of this bishop that some +writers have thought the north doorway of the Nine Altars Chapel was +constructed. This is, as we have seen already, extremely improbable. + +The student of architecture will find very much to interest him in this +Chapel of the Nine Altars. The beautiful sculpture and variety in the +capitals of the shafts of wall arcading, not to mention the rich carving +of the vaulting bosses and capitals of the vaulting shafts, will well +repay his earnest study. + +[Illustration: The Galilee Chapel.] + +[Illustration: The Galilee Chapel.] + +[Illustration: Capital in Galilee Chapel.] + +The #Galilee# or #Lady Chapel# is situated at the west end of the +nave. It is well known that for some reason women were not allowed to +enter any church where S. Cuthbert's shrine stood, nor even any church +dedicated to him. At Lindisfarne a separate church was provided for +them, and at Durham the Galilee Chapel was added for the same purpose. +It was alleged that S. Cuthbert himself had made this rule, but there is +no proof that he ever issued such a command. The Venerable Bede makes +no mention of any special feeling of antipathy to women on the part of +the saint. Bede was contemporary with, and survived S. Cuthbert +forty-eight years. Whatever may have been the origin of the practice, it +is certain that in later times women were jealously excluded from the +churches of S. Cuthbert, and to this circumstance we owe, in the chapel +under our consideration, the most beautiful and perfect example of +Transitional Norman architecture existing in England. + +[Illustration: Paintings in the Galilee Chapel.] + +Let us recall briefly the circumstances attending its erection. Hugh +Pudsey, who occupied the episcopal throne, 1153 to 1195, commenced to +build a Lady Chapel at the east end of the church. The work had not gone +far before accidents happened, and cracks and fissures appeared in the +walls, which the builder thought "gave manifest indication that it was +not acceptable to God and His servant S. Cuthbert."[5] The work was +therefore abandoned, and another chapel was commenced at the west end of +the church, "into which women might lawfully enter, so that they who had +not bodily access to the secret things of the holy place, might have +some solace from the contemplation of them" (Geoffrey de Coldingham). +Pudsey caused to be moved here the marble shafts and bases he had +previously brought from "beyond the sea," and intended to be used in the +construction of his chapel at the east end. Entering the chapel by the +steps leading from the Norman nave, the visitor is at once impressed +with the lightness and delicacy of the work before him, as compared with +the massive grandeur of the Norman cathedral behind. Here we have, in +fact, one of the latest uses of the round arch influenced by the rapidly +developing Early English Gothic. In plan the chapel consists of a nave +with double aisles, which perhaps might be more properly called five +aisles. These are divided by arcades, each of which is of four bays. +These arches and the columns which support them are the chief beauty and +characteristic of the chapel. The arches are semi-circular, of one +order, with three lines of chevron, one on each face, and one on the +soffit between two roll mouldings. The capitals are light and graceful +and carved with a volute, and the columns clusters of marble and +freestone shafts. The arches, however, rest on the marble columns, which +are, no doubt, those previously alluded to. The whole seems to have been +coloured in fresco, and remains of this are still to be seen. The stone +shafts, which alternate with those of marble, do not carry any of the +weight of the arch, and are, undoubtedly, an addition, probably in the +time of Cardinal Langley, when they must have been added, with a view +to improving the appearance. The dimensions of the chapel are +forty-seven feet from east to west, and seventy-six feet from north to +south. The existing roof and the three perpendicular windows on the west +end are also additions by Cardinal Langley. On the walls above what were +once the altars of the Virgin and Our Lady of Pity, remains of fresco +painting may be noticed, all that remains of what has evidently been +beautiful work. These were only brought to light by the removal of +successive coats of whitewash with which they had been covered. + + [5] Geoffrey de Coldingham. + +[Illustration: Detail of the Galilee Chapel.] + +When the Galilee was erected, access from the church was by the great +west door of the cathedral. This was, however, closed up by Cardinal +Langley, who constructed the two doorways at the end of the aisles by +which the chapel is now entered. Those portions of the Norman wall +arcading, which had to be removed by reason of the breaking through of +the new doorways, were used to fill up the lower part of the great west +door. The latter was again removed in 1846, when the west doorway was +re-opened. Langley's two doorways have four centred arches enclosed +beneath a square label moulding, with shields bearing the Cardinal's +coat-of-arms in each spandrel. To Langley also may be attributed the +five massive buttresses on the exterior of the western wall of the +chapel, which partly cover the arcading and panelling with which it was +decorated. In adding the new roof Langley raised the walls above the +arches to carry it, giving a somewhat peculiar effect to the interior. +The original roof lines can still be made out on the west wall. Of the +contents of the chapel remaining, perhaps the most interesting to the +visitor is the grave and site of the shrine of the Venerable Bede. The +shrine, like that of S. Cuthbert's, is gone, and all that remains is the +stone slab on which it once stood, and which bears the inscription +(placed there in 1831): + + Hac sunt in Fossa + Baedae Venerabilis Ossa + +This remarkable man was contemporary with S. Cuthbert, whom, as we have +said, he survived forty-eight years. His holiness and piety, together +with his great learning, earned for him the title Venerable, and after +his death, in 735, his bones were enshrined. Of his parentage we know +nothing, except that, from his own writings, he was born in the +territory of the Abbey of Wearmouth. At the age of seven he was being +educated in that monastery, and by the time he was ten years old he +moved to the newly-founded Abbey on the Tyne, at Jarrow. He had able and +learned teachers in Benedict Bishop and Ceolfrid, and appears to have +turned his advantages to the best account. Deacon at nineteen, and +priest at twenty-nine years of age, he led a holy and studious life. +After his ordination he wrote his "Commentaries on the Scriptures," and +writings on all the known sciences--geography, arithmetic, and +astronomy. The greatest work of his life is, however, his +"Ecclesiastical History of the English Nation," to which we owe all our +knowledge of the introduction of Christianity into Great Britain, and +the early history of the English Church. It is dedicated to King +Ceolwulf. His information was collected from various sources--by letter +as to Canterbury, by communication with bishops and priors as to England +generally, and from personal knowledge and very recent tradition as to +Northumbria. He lived most of his long life between the monasteries of +Monkwearmouth and Jarrow, and was buried at the latter. In the year 1022 +his remains were secretly removed from Jarrow by Elfrid, who was the +most unscrupulous relic-hunter of that time, who deposited a portion of +them in the same coffin with those of S. Cuthbert. From here they were +removed by Bishop Pudsey, and placed in the newly-erected Galilee +Chapel, where he caused them to be enclosed in a magnificent shrine. +"There, in a silver casket gilt with gold, hee laid the bones of +Venerable Bede, and erected a costly and magnificent shrine over it."[6] +When the shrine was destroyed at the suppression of the monastery, in +1542, the bones were interred beneath the place it occupied, where they +remained undisturbed till the year 1831. In that year they were exhumed +and examined, and, after being enclosed in a lead-lined coffin, were +replaced in the tomb, with a parchment giving full details of the +exhumation. Some coins and a ring which were found at this time are +preserved in the Dean and Chapter Library. The inscription previously +quoted was then cut on the upper slab of the tomb. + + [6] "Rites of Durham." + +In the Galilee Chapel is also the tomb of its restorer, Cardinal +Langley, which was erected by himself in front of the principal altar. +On its head may be seen three shields bearing the arms of the cardinal. + +Four of the western windows of the chapel originally contained beautiful +stained glass, a most careful description of which may be found in the +"Rites of Durham." + +Why this chapel has always been known as the "Galilee" Chapel has been +the subject of much discussion and conjecture, and is still a matter of +uncertainty. That it was erected for a Lady Chapel there can, however, +be no doubt. In the nave of the church, between the piers immediately to +the west of the north and south doorways, the visitor will notice a +dark-coloured marble cross, beyond which no woman was allowed to pass +eastward. + +#Monuments in the Nave and Transepts.#--The church of Durham is not +rich in tombs and monuments to the dead. This is to be accounted for +partly by the fact that for some centuries the Bishops of the diocese +were interred in the chapter-house, and even most of these tombs have +been lost or destroyed. Another reason for the scarcity of monuments is +that no layman was allowed to be buried in the church until 1367, when +Lord Ralph Neville obtained that distinction for himself and his wife, +the Lady Alice de Neville, who was buried in 1374. This monument +occupies the third sub-bay from the east, on the south side of the nave. +It is an altar tomb, and though it has suffered severely from mutilation +during the unsettled times of the Reformation, sufficient remains to +enable us to see that it was once a well-designed and noble monument. +Its mouldings are bold, and there are indications of the places where +figures were once attached to the sides. The recumbent effigies of the +noble lord and his wife, on the top of the tomb, are, however, +hopelessly smashed. It is probable that Lord Ralph Neville obtained this +honour for himself through his services and victory at the Battle of +Neville's Cross, near Durham, in 1346. In the next bay westward is the +tomb of Lord John Neville, who died in 1386. This is also an altar tomb, +and has suffered severely, though it remains in a better state of +preservation than the one just described. Its sides each have six +niches, with elaborately ornamented canopies, and containing figures, +while the ends have three similar niches with figures. The carving of +the canopies is exceedingly beautiful. Between each of the niches are +two square panels with trefoiled heads, each panel bearing a shield with +the arms of Neville and Percy. Both above and below the niches much +delicate carving may be noticed. Surmounting all are the broken effigies +of Lord John and his wife, who was the daughter of Lord Henry Percy, the +well-known Hotspur. All the figures on this tomb, including the +recumbent figures, are headless, but sufficient remains to show that +they were of great excellence. Remains of colouring and gilding can also +be distinguished in places on the monument. + +Close to this is the slab and matrix of a brass to Robert Neville, who +was bishop of the diocese from 1438 to 1457. The brass has all been +removed, but the matrix shows a dignified figure of the bishop holding a +crozier and a scroll, while an inscription formerly existed on a plate +at his feet. Bishop Neville was known for his generous qualities, as +well as for his high descent. + +In the western wall, on its south side, near to the entrance to the +Galilee, is a mural tablet to a former Prebendary in the cathedral, and +a well-known antiquary, Sir George Wheler, who died in the latter part +of the seventeenth century. On the northern side is a slab to the +memory of Captain R.M. Hunter, who was killed while charging a Sikh +battery at Ferozeshah. + +Opposite to the monument of Ralph Neville is a modern altar tomb to a +former headmaster of Durham Grammar School, the Rev. James Britton, +D.D., erected by his pupils. It is surmounted by a reclining figure of +Dr. Britton, in academic robes, reading a book. + +In the south transept is a fine monument, by Chantrey, to the memory of +Bishop Barrington, who held the see from 1791 to 1826, dying at the +advanced age of 92 years, beloved by all. He was a great prelate, and +used his immense powers as Prince Palatine with great wisdom. The +kneeling figure, with bowed head, the left hand resting on a book, in an +attitude of deep reverence, is worthy of the name of its sculptor. On +the west wall of the same transept is a tablet to the memory of the +officers, non-commissioned officers, and privates of the Durham Light +Infantry who were slain or died during the Crimean War. + +Near to this is a recently inserted brass to the memory of the officers +and men of the 2nd Durham Regiment who died in Egypt and the Soudan. + +In the north transept we may give some attention to a monument to the +Rev. John Carr, a former headmaster of Durham School. It was erected to +his memory by his pupils. The monument was designed by Rickman, and is +in the style known as Decorated Gothic. + +[Illustration: The Font and Cover.] + +The #Font# stands at the west end of the nave. It is a comparatively +modern work, covered by a tall wooden canopy which was erected by Bishop +Cosin in 1663. The original Norman font was destroyed by the Scottish +prisoners in 1650, and was replaced by a large marble basin by Bishop +Cosin. This font, in its turn, was removed to Pittington Church, where +it is now in use, its place being filled by the present modern one. It +is designed in the Norman style, and is square, supported on short +columns. The sides are carved with medallions, copied from illuminated +MSS., which represent scenes from the life of S. Cuthbert. The cover +deserves attention as a specimen of the woodwork of the seventeenth +century, exhibiting a curious and characteristic mixture of Classic and +Gothic forms and details. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +HISTORY OF THE SEE + + +The earlier history of the see of Durham has already been referred to in +order to lead up to the founding of the cathedral. We have seen how the +bishop and monks of Lindisfarne fled and wandered with the relics of +their beloved S. Cuthbert, eventually settling at Chester-le-Street, +until, in the year 990, Bishop Aldhun, in terror of the Danes, again +fled southward to Ripon. The country at this time was ruled by that weak +monarch, Ethelred the Unready, and the Danes, finding no determined +opposition, continually made piratical incursions, and eventually, +through the treachery of three chieftains, the Castle of Bamburgh fell +into their hands. After an interval of three or four months peace was +made with the invaders, and Aldhun and his monks ventured to return +towards Chester-le-Street. It was during this journey, at a place called +Wredelau, that the car carrying the saint stuck fast, and the incidents +previously related occurred, which led to the founding of the Bishopric +of Durham. + +#Aldhun# may therefore be called the first Bishop of Durham. He held +the see for twenty-nine years, and died in 1018. Aldhun it was who built +the first or White Church, now destroyed. It is extremely probable that +some of the stones of this church were used in the foundations of +Carileph's choir and apses. + +After Aldhun's death the see remained vacant for three years, when he +was succeeded by + +#Edmund# (1020-1040). It is said that the monks could not agree as to +who should succeed Aldhun, when one day Edmund, a presbyter, asked in a +joke, "Why not appoint me?" Being a pious and a faithful man, they took +him at his word, and, after much persuasion and fasting and prayer, he +was consecrated. The choice was a good one. Edmund was an energetic and +beloved prelate. He died at Gloucester in 1041. One of the most +important events during his episcopate was the invasion of Northumbria +by Duncan, King of the Scots. He besieged Durham, but was beaten off, +with great slaughter, and the heads of many of his men were exposed in +the market-place. + +#Egelric# (1042-1056) was the next bishop. He was an alien, and made +himself obnoxious to the clergy and people. With the intention of +rebuilding, he pulled down the wooden church at Chester-le-Street, which +had been the seat of the bishopric for one hundred and thirteen years. A +large quantity of treasure was found while digging foundations, and this +Egelric appropriated and sent to his monastery at Peterborough, where he +soon followed it. Before resigning the see of Durham, however, he +secured the appointment of his brother to the bishopric. Some years +later William the Conqueror called him to account for his behaviour in +the matter of the treasure, and threw him into prison at Westminster, +where he died in 1072. + +#Egelwin# (1056-1071) succeeded, through the influence of his +brother. He took part in the rebellion of Eadwin and Morcar, and, like +his predecessor, died in prison. He was the last of the Saxon bishops. + +#Walcher# (1071-1080). William I. found the Church in great disorder +and made many changes. He filled most of the sees by the appointment of +Norman bishops. To Durham he elected Walcher. The latter was a man of +gentle disposition, but his chaplain, Leobwin, and Gilbert, a kinsman of +his own, to whom he entrusted most of his affairs, were hated by the +people, over whom they exercised great tyranny. At length a noble, named +Lyulph, ventured to remonstrate with them, and in their rage they had +him assassinated. The people were furious, and the bishop vainly denied +any knowledge of the deed. He called a meeting at Gateshead. Here a +tremendous tumult arose, the mob crying, "Good rede, short rede, slay ye +the bishop," and eventually setting fire to the church. The bishop was +eventually reduced to a choice of facing the mob or being burnt in the +church. He chose the former, and, covering his face with his robe, went +out. He was immediately slain on the threshold, and dreadfully +mutilated. His body was removed by the monks to Jarrow, and afterwards +to Durham, where he was buried. + +#William of S. Carileph# (1080-1096) was next appointed bishop. He +was a man of great attainments. To him we owe the founding of the +present cathedral. Carileph also made an important change, by the +removal from Durham of the secular clergy, and their replacement by +Benedictine monks drawn from Jarrow and Monkwearmouth. The foundations +of the new church were laid on 29th July 1093, the Bishop and Prior +Turgot being present. He did not live to see it very far advanced, being +taken ill at Windsor. He died about Christmas 1096. + +#Ranulph Flambard# (1099-1128).--The see was kept vacant for three +years by William Rufus, when he appointed Flambard, a great builder. He +built the nave and aisles, the west doorway and lower part of the +western towers, and vaulted the aisles. He also built Framwellgate +Bridge over the Wear at Durham, erected and endowed S. Giles' Church, +Durham, and was the founder of Norham Castle on the Tweed. + +#Galfrid Rufus# (1133-1140) was his successor. His episcopate was +much disturbed by wars with the Scots. The chapter-house was finished +during his time of office. + +#William de S. Barbara# (1143-1152) was next appointed. Extraordinary +events marked his election. William Cumin, chancellor of the Scottish +king, attempted to take the bishopric for himself, and succeeded so far +as to capture the castle with the aid of the Scots. The rightful bishop +was not able to gain possession for sixteen months after his election. +Cumin submitted in 1144. + +[Illustration: The Crypt.] + +#Hugh Pudsey# (1153-1195) now succeeded to the bishopric at the age +of twenty-five. He bought for life the earldom of Northumberland and the +manor of Sadberg. In 1187 the news of the capture of Jerusalem by the +Saracens spread consternation in the Church, and Pudsey prepared to +accompany King Henry to the East. He fitted out ships and galleys in a +most sumptuous manner, his own having a seat for himself of solid +silver. Neither he nor King Henry embarked in the crusade, however. The +king died, and Richard his son undertook the expedition, leaving Bishop +Pudsey and Longchamp, Bishop of Ely, as justiciaries for the northern +and southern portions of the kingdom respectively. These two +quarrelled, and Pudsey was decoyed to London by Longchamp, and committed +to the Tower. He soon obtained his release, but was compelled to resign +the earldom of Northumberland. In 1195 he undertook a journey to London +to see the king, and endeavour to obtain restitution of his honours and +possessions, but was taken ill, and died on the way, at Howden. His work +in the cathedral we have seen. He also built the great hall of the +castle, most of the beautiful Church of S. Cuthbert at Darlington, and +the Elvet Bridge over the Wear at Durham, and founded the hospital at +Sherburn, near Durham. Darlington Church, which would well repay a +visit, is a fine specimen of Early Pointed architecture, second only to +the Galilee of Durham, the two showing in a wonderful manner the rapid +development of the change which was taking place in architectural style +during Pudsey's time. + +#Philip de Pictavia# (1197-1208), elected at the urgent request of +the king. He was continually at loggerheads with his clergy. He +supported King John against the Pope, and was for this excommunicated; +died in 1208, and was buried in unconsecrated ground. This bishop is +said to have had the permission of the king to coin money at Durham. + +#Richard de Marisco# (1217-1226) was elected after an interval of +nearly ten years. The feud with the monks continued during his +episcopate, and the bishop swore the Church of Durham should have no +peace while he lived; threatened that if a monk should show himself +beyond his cloister he should lose his head; and once, when his servants +had beaten a monk, and the man complained, he replied that it was a pity +they did not kill him. He died at Peterborough in 1226. + +#Richard le Poore# (1229-1237), who was the next bishop, elected +after the see had been vacant two years and four months, was translated +from Salisbury, where he had commenced building the new cathedral. He +ended the dispute between the monks and the Bishop of Durham by an +agreement known as "Le Convenit." + +#Nicholas de Farnham# (1241-1248) became bishop after a three years' +dispute with the king. He resigned in 1248. + +#Walter de Kirkham# (1249-1260), Dean of York, was next elected. + +#Robert de Stitchill# (1261-1274), Prior of Finchale, succeeded him. +Dissensions again arose between the bishop and the monks. He died on his +return from France, where he had attended a council at Lyons. He was +buried in a monastery in France, but his heart was brought to Durham, +and buried in the chapter-house. + +#Robert de Insula# (1274-1283), a native of Holy Island, as his name +suggests, was then elected bishop. His tenure of office was peaceful. + +[Illustration: Stone Coffin Lid.] + +#Anthony Bek# (1283-1310). The next bishop was of noble birth, the +son of Walter Bek, Baron of Eresby, in Lincolnshire. He took part with +Edward I. in his expedition to Scotland, and, being very wealthy, was of +great assistance to the king. His following consisted of twenty-six +standard bearers, one hundred and forty knights, and an army of five +thousand foot and five hundred horse. He was employed by the king, with +success, in many important State matters. In the year 1300 trouble again +arose with the monks. Some of them being dissatisfied with the Prior +Hotoun, the bishop proposed to hold a visitation. The prior refusing to +admit him unless he came unattended, the bishop deposed and +excommunicated him. The convent took sides, some with the bishop and +some with the prior, and it was only on the interference of the king +that a partial peace was restored. The quarrel soon reopened. Some men +made a complaint against the bishop. He had compelled them to take arms +under him in the Scottish war, and had imprisoned some who had returned +without leave. The barons upheld the men, and it led to them taking +sides with Prior Hotoun in his dispute. The bishop, calling the monks +together, ordered them to elect a new prior, which they promptly refused +to do. On this the bishop appointed Henry de Luceby of Holy Island to be +prior of Durham, and brought men from Weardale and Tynedale to expel the +old prior. They laid siege to the convent, and for three days Prior +Hotoun and forty-six monks were shut up with only six loaves and sixteen +herrings. They continued the services however. On the third day a +Tynedale man was sent to pull the prior out of his stall, but was so +awed by his venerable appearance that he dared not touch him. A monk on +the bishop's side, however, did the work. Prior Luceby was installed, +and Prior Richard seized and imprisoned. He soon escaped, however, and +carried his complaint before Parliament, and afterwards to the Pope, +Boniface VIII. The Pope decided in his favour, and Hotoun returned to +Durham, and Luceby and his friends were obliged to go, though they +tried, when doing so, to carry off some silver plate and other +valuables. Bek continued in great splendour until his death in 1310. +When he died he was king of the Isle of Man, Patriarch of Jerusalem, +Bishop of Durham, and Prince Palatine. + +#Richard de Kellaw# (1311-1316), formerly a monk of Durham, succeeded +Bek. He was a good and learned man, and lived in harmony with the monks. + +#Louis de Beaumont# (1318-1333) was next appointed bishop, after +great competition and intrigue. He was chosen in opposition to the +wishes of the chapter, who had elected Stamford, Prior of Finchale, to +succeed Kellaw. On his way to Durham for consecration and enthronement, +accompanied by two cardinals and a large retinue, he was waylaid at +Rushyford by a band of ruffians under Gilbert Middleton. They plundered +the cardinals, but carried the bishop a prisoner to Mitford Castle. His +release was only secured on payment by the monastery of a heavy ransom. +He was an ignorant man, and so innocent of Latin that he could not read +his profession of obedience, being continually prompted. Later, at an +ordination, he stumbled over the words "_in oenigmate_" and cried in +French, "_Par Seynt Lewis, il ne fuit pas curtays qui cest parole ici +escrit._" "By Saint Lewis he was no gentleman who wrote this word." + +#Richard de Bury# (1333-1345), who succeeded, was a great scholar, +tutor to Edward III., and author of "Philobiblon," a book still extant. +He was a good man, and very kind to the poor. + +#Thomas de Hatfield# (1345-1381) was, like Bishop Bek, a warrior +ecclesiastic. Soon after his election he led eighty archers to the siege +of Calais. His episcopate was notable for the wars with the Scots, and +the great victory obtained over them, with the capture of King David and +many nobles, at Neville's Cross, near Durham. Fifteen thousand Scots +were slain. The victory was attributed to the presence of the sacred +banner of S. Cuthbert, which Prior John Fossor took to a place near the +battlefield, kneeling in prayer the while for success. A hymn of +thanksgiving was appointed to be sung on the top of the cathedral tower +on each anniversary of the battle. This custom is still carried out, +though the day has been changed to the twenty-ninth of May. Hatfield was +a liberal supporter of Durham College at Oxford. He erected his own tomb +in the choir of the cathedral, in which he was afterwards buried. + +#John Fordham# (1381-1388), secretary to Richard II., and Canon of +York, was next elected. Suspected of giving bad advice to the king, he +was compelled to resign, but was given the inferior bishopric of Ely, +where he lived to extreme old age, dying in 1425. + +#Walter de Skirlaw# (1388-1405), translated from Bath and Wells, was +a munificent prelate. He built bridges at Shincliffe, Bishop Auckland, +and Yarm; a refuge tower, a beautiful chapter-house (now in ruins) at +Howden; and was a large contributor to the expense of building the +central tower of York Cathedral. His work in the building of the +cloisters of Durham has already been referred to. + +#Thomas Langley# (1406-1437) succeeded. He was Chancellor of England, +Dean of York, and in 1411 was made a cardinal. He occupied the see +during part of the reign of Henry IV., the whole of that of Henry V., +and fifteen years of that of Henry VI. He founded two schools on the +Palace Green at Durham, and in his will left collections of books to +many colleges. + +#Robert Neville# (1437-1457), son of the Earl of Westmoreland and his +wife Joan, who was a daughter of John of Gaunt. He was therefore uncle +of the Earl of Warwick, the "king-maker" of Richard III. and of Edward +IV. He had a peaceful episcopate of nineteen years, and was buried in +the cathedral, in the south aisle near his ancestors. + +#Laurance Booth# (1457-1476), Canon of York and Lichfield, Archdeacon +of Richmond, and Dean of S. Paul's, was the next bishop. He was a +supporter of the House of Lancaster. He was translated to the +archbishopric of York in 1476, the first of the bishops of Durham who +was raised to that dignity. + +#William Dudley# (1476-1483), Dean of Windsor, succeeded him. + +#John Sherwood# (1483-1494), who was appointed next, was a learned +man, and made a large collection of Greek manuscripts. He died in Rome +in 1494. + +#Richard Fox# (1494-1501) was translated from Bath and Wells after +the see had remained vacant for eleven months. Nothing of particular +moment occurred during his episcopate. He was an early patron and helper +of Wolsey, and lived to regret having assisted him. He made alterations +in the castle at Durham. He was translated to the see of Winchester in +1501, and died in 1528. + +#William Sinews# or #Sever# (1502-1505), translated from Carlisle. +He is said to have been the son of a sieve-maker at Shincliffe, near +Durham. + +#Christopher Bainbridge# (1507-1508), Dean of York, was next elected, +and after an episcopate of one year was translated to York. In 1511 he +was sent to Rome as ambassador by Henry VIII., and while there was +created cardinal. He died in Rome, poisoned by a servant whom he had +struck in anger. + +#Thomas Ruthall# (1509-1522), Dean of Salisbury, was the next bishop. +He was immensely wealthy, and his love of money brought him into +disgrace. King Henry commanded him to draw up an account of the lands +and revenues of the Crown. The bishop, in error, sent to the king the +wrong book, in which was set forth an account of his own possessions. +The king, though tampered with by Wolsey, made no use of the knowledge +thus obtained. But the affair rankled in the mind of the bishop, and is +said to have hastened his death. + +#Thomas Wolsey# (1522-1528) was appointed to succeed him. The famous +cardinal held the see for six years, as well as that of York. During the +whole of his episcopate he never visited Durham, and in 1528 he resigned +it for the see of Winchester. + +#Cuthbert Tunstall# (1530-1559) was translated from London by a Papal +Bull, the last used for this purpose. Tunstall was a remarkable man, and +he occupied the see during an important period of Church history, the +Reformation, all the stages of which he saw. During his episcopacy, the +great privileges of the bishops of Durham as Princes Palatine were very +much curtailed. In 1526, while Tunstall was Bishop of London, the +English translation of the New Testament by Tyndall appeared, causing +great alarm among the clergy. The part played by Tunstall in relation to +this is well known. He opposed the supremacy of King Henry as head of +the Church, but eventually gave up the struggle and preached in its +favour. The monastery of Durham was suppressed in 1540, and a dean and +twelve canons appointed. Soon after the accession of Edward VI., Bishop +Tunstall was committed to the Tower and deprived of his see, on a charge +of having encouraged rebellion in the north. On the accession of Mary to +the throne he was released and restored, but there would seem to be no +grounds for supposing that he took any part in the cruelties practised +during her reign. When Elizabeth became queen, Tunstall refused to take +the oath, and was again deprived of his see, and, being now an old man, +was committed to the custody of his friend Archbishop Parker +(Canterbury), with whom he lived till his death in 1559. He was a +scholarly prelate, of a kindly nature, and was held in universal esteem. + +#James Pilkington# (1560-1575) left the buildings of the see in a +ruinous condition. + +#Richard Barnes# (1575-1587), translated from Carlisle. He is said to +have been removed to Durham in order to spy upon the correspondence and +messengers of the unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots. + +#Matthew Hutton# (1589-1594), Dean of York, was the next bishop. A +man of great learning, and considered one of the best preachers of his +day. He was translated to York in 1594. + +#Tobias Matthew# (1595-1606), Dean of Durham, was his successor. He +was also a great preacher, and was celebrated for his wit. He was +translated to York. + +#William James# (1606-1617), Dean of Durham, was next elected. + +#Richard Neile# (1617-1627) was translated from Lincoln. He was +remarkable as being the only bishop who held six sees successively--viz. +1608, Rochester; 1610, Lichfield; 1613, Lincoln; 1617, Durham; 1627, +Winchester; and 1631, Archbishop of York. He did much to help forward +men of learning and ability by giving them preferment in his see, and +reserving apartments for their use in Durham House, London, which became +known as Durham College. He spent large sums of money on repairs to the +buildings at Durham. + +#George Monteigne# (1628), Bishop of London, only held the see of +Durham for three months, when he was translated to York. + +#John Howson# (1628-1631), Bishop of Oxford, held the see for two +years, and died in 1631. + +#Thomas Morton# (1632-1659), translated from Lichfield. The North of +England was much disturbed in 1640 by the invasion of the Scots, and +Bishop Morton fled--first to Stockton, afterwards to York--and never +returned to his diocese. The successful Scots levied heavy taxes on the +district for the maintenance of their troops, as much as L850 a day +being demanded. In 1646, Episcopacy was abolished, and the estates of +the bishops ordered to be sold. Thus we find at Durham the castle sold +to the Mayor of London for L1267 and Durham, Borough, and Framwellgate +disposed of to the Corporation for L200. The bishop lived a life of +suffering in London, cared for by his friends, till his death in 1659, +at the age of ninety-four. During his episcopate, in 1656, Oliver +Cromwell arranged for the founding of a college in Durham, but his death +prevented him carrying out his scheme. His son, however, did so, and it +flourished until the Restoration, which, by giving back property to its +rightful owners, put an end to its existence. + +#John Cosin# (1660-1671), Canon of Durham, was the first bishop after +the Restoration. He was a most munificent prelate, leaving many +charitable bequests. He spent large sums in the restoration of the +cathedral and castle and the palace at Bishop Auckland. He built a +hospital for eight poor people, and erected a library on the palace +green. + +#Nathaniel Crewe# (1642-1722), translated from Oxford. He was a +strong supporter of King James II., but afterwards took the oath of +allegiance to William and Mary. He was noted for his charity and +munificence, and left large sums to the poor, and in scholarships +tenable by natives of Durham. + +#William Talbot# (1722-1730), translated from Salisbury. + +#Edward Chandler# (1730-1750), Bishop of Lichfield, was next elected. +He gave L2000 to be laid out for the benefit of the widows of clergymen +of his diocese. + +#Joseph Butler# (1750-1752) was translated from Bristol. He is best +known as the author of "The Analogy of Religion, Natural and Revealed." + +#Richard Trevor# (1752-1771), Bishop of S. David's, a learned, pious, +and unostentatious man. He left L200 in his will to the poor of Durham +and Auckland. + +#John Egerton# (1771-1787), Bishop of Lichfield, was next elected. He +married the daughter of Henry, Duke of Kent, and his eldest son +afterwards became Earl of Bridgewater. + +#Thomas Thurlow# (1787-1791) was translated to Durham from Lincoln. +He was brother of the Lord Chancellor. + +#Shute Barrington# (1791-1826) was the next bishop, having previously +held the sees of Llandaff and Salisbury. A most beneficent prelate; his +charities, especially those for the founding of schools and augmentation +of poor livings, were magnificent. During his episcopacy, external +repairs to the cathedral having become absolutely necessary, James +Wyatt, who had already done such mischief at Salisbury, was given charge +of the work. Then it was that the paring process, spoken of previously, +was completed, the chapter-house destroyed, and the Galilee Chapel only +saved from destruction by the intervention of Dean Cornwallis. Wyatt's +other wild schemes, to extend the choir eastwards, to the utter ruin of +the Nine Altar Chapel, to remove the beautiful Neville screen, and +surmount the central tower of the church by a spire, were happily +checked in time, or there is no saying to what extent the building would +have been mutilated. Bishop Barrington died in London, in his +ninety-third year. + +#William Van Mildert# (1826-1836), Bishop of Llandaff, succeeded to +the see. During his episcopate, many important changes were made. The +Ecclesiastical Commission, appointed in 1833, to consider in what manner +the funds of the Church might be made more available for the purposes +for which they were intended, decided to give future bishops a fixed +yearly payment, and to reduce the number of canons from twelve to six. +On the appointment of a new bishop, the Palatinate was to be annexed by +the State. Thus Van Mildert was the last Count Palatine. Before these +changes came into force, however, the bishop and the dean and chapter +founded and endowed the university out of the revenues of the see, for +the use of which the bishop gave up the castle. Bishop Van Mildert was a +man of great charity, and though his income was immense, he died +comparatively poor. He died in February 1836, and was interred in the +chapel of the Nine Altars. + +#Edward Maltby# (1836-1856), his successor, was translated from +Chichester, and held the see for twenty years, when, owing to advanced +age and increasing infirmity, he resigned in 1856. + +#Charles Thomas Longley# (1856-1860), first Bishop of Ripon, was next +elected. He was a popular and much-beloved prelate. In 1860 he was +created Archbishop of York, and two years later was translated to +Canterbury. + +#Hon. Henry Montague Villiers# (1860-1861) was translated from +Carlisle. A fine preacher, his episcopate was all too short. He died, +after much suffering, in 1861. + +#Charles Baring# (1861-1878), Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol, +succeeded him. A man of unbounded charity and goodness, he won the +affection of all who knew him personally. He was compelled, through +illness, to resign the see in 1878, and did not long survive his +retirement. + +#Joseph Barber Lightfoot# (1879-1889) was then elected to the see. A +man of scholarly attainments, he is still too well known and remembered +to need any detailed note. He came to Durham pledged to accomplish as +soon as possible the division of the diocese, which promise he carried +out by restoring the suppressed see of Hexham to Newcastle-on-Tyne. A +fine tomb to the memory of Dr Lightfoot has been placed on the north +side of the choir of the cathedral, and as a memorial of his episcopate +the mutilated chapter-house has been restored. + +The present bishop is the #Right Rev. Brooke Foss Westcott, D.D.# + + * * * * * + +In this place may conveniently be given the rough draft of the +settlement of the see by King Henry VIII. at the Reformation. Although +departed from in many instances, it throws a curious light on the king's +intentions to keep up some semblance of a conventual institution with an +active educational purpose. + + + DURESME. + + [Fol. 30.] Duresme \ + cum Cellis. / + +First a provoste of the College cc li. +Item xii prebendaryes and the moste parte of theym preachers vi + of them 1 markes and vi of them xxvi li. xiii s. iiii d. by the + yere ccclx li. +Item a Reader of humanytie in greke by the yere xx li. +Item a Reader of dyvynytie in hebrewe by the yere xx li. +Item a Reader bothe of devynytie and humanytie by the yere xx li. +Item a Reader of physyke xx li. +Item lx scollers to be tawghte both gramer and logyke in hebrewe + greke and lattyn every of them by the yere iii li. vi s. viii d. cc li. +Item xx studyentes in dyvynytie to be founde x att Oxenford, and + x att Cambryge every of them by the yere x li. cc li. +Item a Scolmaster for the same Scollers xx li. +Item an ussher x li. +Item viii petycanons to synge and serve in the quere every of them + x li. by the yere xxiiii li. +Item x laye men to synge and serve also in the quyre every of + them by yere vi li. xiii s. iiii d. lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d. +Item x Chorysters every of them by the yere fyve marks + xxxiii li. vi s. viii d. +Item a master of the Chylderne x li. +Item a Gospeller vi li. +Item a pysteller v li. +Item ii sextens vi li. xiii s. iiii d. +Item xii poore men beynge olde servynge men decayed by warres + or in the Kyng's servyce every of + them vi li. xiii s. iiii d. by yere lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d. + + [Fol. 30. dors.] + +Item yearly to be distrybuted in almes to poore house-holders + lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d. +Item for yearly reparacions lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d. +Item to be employed yerely in makynge and mendynge of + hyghewayes lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d. +Item to a Steward of the Landes vi li. xiii s. iiii d. +Item to an Audytor x li. +Item to ii porters to kepe the gates and shave the Company x li. +Item to one cheyf Butler for hys wages and dyete iiii li. xiiis. iiiid. +Item to an under Butler for hys wages and dyete iii li. vis. viiid. +Item one Cheyf Cooke for hys wages and dyete iiii li. xiiis. iiiid. +Item oone Under Coke for hys wages and dyete iii li. vi s. viii d. +Item for the provostes expences in receyvyng the Rentes and + surveyeng the landes by yere x li. +Item to a Cato^r to bye there dyetes for his wages and dyete and + makynge hys bockes of reconyngs by the yere vi li. xiiis. iiiid. + + [Fol. 31.] + + xx +Duresme M^lDCiiii viii^{li} xi^s viii^d. + xx +Porciones deductae M^lDiiii xiii^{li} xiii^s iiii^d. +Reman' lxxxxiiii^{li} xviii^s iii^d. + + [Fol. 32.] + +A proporcion for mayntenance of Hospitalite Lernynge Dyvine + Service Almes and other necessarie Expences in the Cathedrall + Churche of Duresme to be erectyd foundyd and establysshed + by the King's Majesties goodnes. + + xx + Sm^a M^lDCiiii viii^{li} xis. viii d. + + + HOSPITALITE. + + The dean cclxiii li. x s.--Prebend' xxxii li. vi s. viii d. + Corpus of the deane and prebendaries. + +Fyrste for the Deane for the corpus of his promotion which he shall + certaynlye receyve and accordinge wherunto he shall paye the + tenthes and fyrst frutes xl li. + +Item to twelve prebendaries iche of them for the corpus of his + promotion viii^{li} which he shall receyve certaynly by yere and + accordinge whereunto he shall paye the tenthes and fyrste xx + fruytes iiii xvi li. + + Sm^a cxxxvi^{li} + + + DISTRIBUTIONS. + + | DCxxx li. xiii s. i d. | + +---------------------^--+ +Item to the deane for every daie of his residence to be payd by waie | + of Cotidiane distribucion out of the common possession xii s. v d. | + to be paid out of the same common possession which amountyth | + in the yere ccxxvi li. xii s. i d. | + | +Item to eche prebendarye for every daie of his residence to be payd | + by waie of Cotidiane distribucion out of the common possession | + xvi^d ob. over and besydes iiii s. ix d. ob. to be payd to every | + of the prebendaries out of the same common possession which | + in the hole yere amountith to the twelve said prebendaries to | + the Summe ccciiii li.-^ + + [Fol. 32 dors.] + + LEARNINGE. + + | ccxxx li. vi s. viii d. | + +-------------------------+ + | cciii^{li} xiii iiii. | + +--------------------^--+ +Item a reader in divinite for his yerely stypende to be paid of | + the common possession xxvi li. xiii s. iiii d. | +Item to twelve scolers to be found at the Universite off Oxforde | + every of them ix li. xi s. viii d. by yere cxv li. | +Item to xviii scolers to be taught Gramer Greke and Latyn | + every of them iiii li. by yere lxxii li. | +Item to a scolemaster for the same scolars x li. | +Item to an ussher for them vi li. xiii s. iiii d.-^ + + + DYVINE SERVICE. + + | ccci^{li} | + +--------^--+ +Item to twelve petycanons eche of them x li. by yere for ther dyet | + and wagys cxx li. | +Item to tenne laymen syngars eche of them to have yerely for their | + dyet and wagys vi li. xiii s. iiii d. lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d. | +Item to tenne Choristers eche of them lxvi s. viii d. | + xxiii li. vi. s. viii d. | +Item for a master to the Children for his dyet and wagys x. li. | +Item to a Gospeller and Epistoler eche of them vi li. xiiis. iiiid. | +Item to twoo sextens xii li. | +Item to a Cator vi li. xiii s. iiii d. | +Item to twoo buttellers xii li. | +Item to two Cookes xii li. | +Item to thre other commen servaantes as portor and ryngars eche of | + them v li. xv li.-^ + + [Fol. 33.] + + ALMES. + +Item to eyght poore men eche of them yerely vi li. xiii. s. iiii d. | + liii li. vi s. viii d. | +Item to be yerely distributed in almes to householders | + xvi li. xiii s. iiii d. | +Item to be yerely spente in mendynge of hyghways xx li.-^ + + + EXPENCES NECESSARIE. + + xx + | ciiii iiii li. xv s. x d. | + +-------------------------^-+ +Item for yerely reparacions by Estymation. cxxxi li. viii s. v d. | +Item in exspences yerely in surveynge the landes and receyvinge | + the Rentes xx li. | +Item in expences for wyne and wax xiii li. vi s. viii d. | +Item to a Stewarde of landes for his fee x li. | +Item to an Auditor x li.-+ + + xx xx +Sum of the common M^lCCCiiii vi li. xiii s. xd. M^lCCCCiiiixvi^{li} xv d. +Sum totall of all thies percels M^lDxxii^{li} xiii^s x^d. + +Above which chargys the church indewyd with landes to susteyne the +same muste pay yerely tenthes and a certayne summe by composition for +the fyrste frutes deducted and abbayted. + Cxxxvi li. payd by the deane and prebendaries severall. + cxl li. to be allowyd by statute for almes. + x li. for the stewarde allowyd by statute. + x li. for the Auditors fee allowyd by statute. + xx +The hole sume of deductions CCiiii xvi li. +And so remaynes chargeable with tenthes and fyrst frutes + M^lCCxxvi li. xiii s. x d. + +[Illustration: The Chapter Library.] + +[Sidenote: ] + + [Fol. 33. dors.] + | ccxvi li. ix s. vi d. | + +---------------------^-+ +Whereof to be payd for the tenthes of the commen possession | + cxliiii li. vi s. iiii d. | +Item a yerely Rent to be payd by composition for the fyrste frutes | + lxxii li. xii s. iid.-^ + +And so the Cathedrale Churche for mayntenance of the said yerely + charges and paymente touchinge hospitalite lernynge divine + service almes necessarie exspences tenthes and fyrst frutes + after the Rates before mentionyd must yf the said shall lyke + the Kings majestic be indewyd with yerely Revenues of the + summe of M^lDCCxxxix^{li} xiii s. iiii d. MDCCxii li. x s. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +THE CASTLE AND UNIVERSITY + + +No notice of Durham and its cathedral would seem complete without some +mention being made of its fortress, the growth of which has been +contemporary with, and, we might almost say, inseparable from that of +the monastery itself. + +There can be little doubt that other than the miraculous considerations +assigned to them by tradition influenced the monks and the congregation +of S. Cuthbert in their final choice of a resting-place for the bones of +their beloved saint. The almost impregnable position of the rocky +promontory upon which both Cathedral and Castle stand suggests a careful +selection on their part, with a view to the prevention of attack and +consequent further disturbance of their sacred relics. What the first +fortification was is a matter of doubt; most probably it was merely a +wall or rampart of earth, with a large artificial mound at the weakest +point. This seems to have been the usual practice at an early date at +many other places in England, and in some cases their date is known and +corresponds to the time at which Durham was probably first fortified. +Whatever the earliest protections were, we know that in 1072 William the +Conqueror, on his way from Scotland, passed through Durham. He quickly +perceived the natural advantages and strength of the position, and gave +orders for the erection of a castle. This was at once set about, during +the episcopacy of Bishop Walcher, and continued under Carileph and +Flambard. Of this building, which might be styled "The Conqueror's +Castle," not much remains. The most important is the #Chapel# or +Crypt, which belongs, no doubt, to the earlier part of the period named +(1080 to 1096). In plan the chapel has a nave and two aisles. The roof +is vaulted, the ribs being plain, semi-circular, and square recessed, +and is supported by six circular columns. The capitals of these columns +are a somewhat interesting feature, owing to their Lombardic character. +The abaci are square and moulded, while the caps proper carry at their +angles rudely carved volutes such as occur in the White Tower, London. +Each capital is also carved differently with curious and rude devices. +Of the three windows which terminated the nave and aisle at the east +end, one has been destroyed to make way for a staircase and the other +two are built up. The original windows of the chapel were very narrow +and widely splayed. In the walls are an aumbrey and the remains of two +altars. + +[Illustration: The Chapel or Crypt, Durham Castle.] + +Other remains of this date are somewhat scattered. Two windows in the +undercroft of Bishop Bek's, or what is now known as #Bishop Hatfield's +Hall#, are examples. They have converging jambs, the semi-circular +heads being cut from one stone and the inside very widely splayed. The +wall from the keep to the chapel, and that from the keep to the gateway +are also Norman work, as are also portions of the gateway itself. + +The next important changes in the castle were made by Bishop Pudsey, +1153-1195, who not only repaired the existing work but built a hall, +known as #Pudsey's Hall#. Although this hall has now almost entirely +disappeared, through repairs and alterations, sufficient evidence as to +its whereabouts and general plan is forthcoming. It was of two storeys, +the lower and upper halls. Entrance to the lower hall was originally +gained by a staircase which led from the courtyard to the splendid +doorway now enclosed in Tunstall's Gallery. This magnificent entrance +having been covered with lath and plaster, and for long completely +forgotten, was unearthed by, and at the expense of Bishop Barrington, +early in the present century. It is in good preservation and is a +splendid specimen of rich Norman architecture. It consists of five +orders, all richly carved and moulded. Three orders rest on carved +capitals and shafts, and two are carried down the jambs of the doorway. +The stairway has entirely disappeared, but there is little room to doubt +that it would be of much the same character as that in the close at +Canterbury; and to the protection afforded by the staircase roof, we +are, no doubt, indebted for the good preservation of the arch mouldings +of the doorway itself. + +What was originally Pudsey's Upper Hall is now styled the #Norman +Gallery#. The greater portion of this gallery is at the present time +divided into chambers of residence for the students of the university. +It is reached by the Black Staircase and a doorway in the Early English +Gothic style. The interior of the south and west walls are enriched by +arcades in groups of three, the central bay of each of which is larger +than those flanking it, and is pierced by a window. The arches of the +arcade rest on shafts and cushion capitals, and are carved with chevron +ornament. The whole arrangement hereabouts bears the impress of having +been a portion of one great building, which an examination of the roof, +lead, and general outline makes even more certain. + +On the western side of the courtyard stands the great #Bek's Hall#, +built by the bishop of that name. It is above the Norman undercroft, +previously mentioned. Much of its original character is now lost, owing +to restorations, curtailments, and alterations. Bek's doorway is still +in existence, though much hidden by the porch erected later by Bishop +Cosin. It has a pointed arch of two orders, with detached shafts in the +jambs. Another original relic, unrestored, is part of the window nearest +the fireplace, which is valuable as evidence of the date of the erection +of the hall. The tracery is geometrical, and the shafts in the angles of +the splays are banded. About the year 1350 Bishop Hatfield enlarged and +altered Bek's hall. At the west end he inserted two light windows, which +are now blocked, though the tracery may be seen from students' rooms +inside, and partly from the outside. The open oak roof, with the +exception of some necessary later repairs, is of Bishop Hatfield's time. +Hatfield repaired and altered Pudsey's upper hall by the addition of +east and west windows, and probably a new roof. He also rebuilt the +#Keep#, which time and war had greatly injured. The existing keep, +which was erected in 1840, is similar to Hatfield's, and in many places +stands upon the old foundations. It is now used entirely as apartments +for students of University College. + +Bishop Fox (1494-1501) is responsible for the next important changes. He +curtailed the great hall by a partition wall near its south end, which +still exists. The wall bears his badge in two places--a pelican feeding +her young with blood from her breast. He also adapted part of Pudsey's +buildings, near the south-west corner of the castle, to the purposes of +a kitchen, erected three fireplaces, and windows, and the oak buttery +hatch which opens from the kitchen, and which again has carved upon it +"the pelican in her piety." + +Bishop Tunstall (1530-1558) built #Tunstall's Gallery#, which +extends from the great hall to the clock tower. It is entered by Cosin's +staircase (erected later) and by an eastern stair built by Tunstall +himself. A curious feature of this stairway is a port-hole which +commands the main entrance to the courtyard. The present beautiful +little chapel is also the work of Bishop Tunstall. It contains some +notable carved oak stalls, of earlier date than the chapel itself, which +were brought from the castle at Bishop Auckland. The carved devices of +the miserere seats of these stalls are curious and worthy of attention. +The doors in the gateway of the courtyard are the work of Tunstall's +time. + +Bishop Cosin (1660-1672) found the castle in a dilapidated condition. +During the Commonwealth it had been sold to the then Lord Mayor of +London, who used it badly, to say nothing of the ruin caused by the +Scots. He spent large sums in its restoration. He added the present +porch or entrance from the courtyard to the great hall. The great +staircase in the north-west corner of the courtyard is his and bears his +arms. Within and leading to Tunstall's Gallery is the Black Staircase, +also the work of Cosin. He enlarged the chapel, and constructed and +fitted several apartments in the castle, besides several minor works. In +his will, he says, he spent the greater part of his temporal estate in +"rebuilding and repaireing the two episcopall Castles of Durham and +Bishop Auckland." This, he states, cost him seventeen thousand pounds, +including the furnishing and ornamenting of the chapels, which he did +"for the use of my successors in those Chappells for ever." Many of the +agreements between Bishop Cosin and his masons, plasterers, carpenters, +and painters, from which the exact dates and prices paid for the work +may be learned, are preserved. + +The latest important work at the castle was the rebuilding of the keep, +in 1840, which was described at that time as "a picturesque ruin." It +was entirely rebuilt on its original plan. The gateway to the courtyard +was repaired and modernised by Bishop Barrington, with the existing +inartistic result. + +Durham Castle owes its picturesque appearance to two causes--first, its +magnificent and commanding position, on a rocky escarpment; and second, +no doubt, to the many vicissitudes through which it has passed, the +alterations and additions made necessary by time and constant war, and +later, the entirely different uses to which the building is put. + +[Illustration: Staircase in the Castle.] + +It is now chiefly used as a hall of residence for university men and as +lodging for the Judges of Assize. + +The most favourable time for the architectural student to visit the +castle is during one of the university vacations, otherwise many +interesting features would be denied him. Many portions (except +students' chambers) are, however, open to the public every week day. + +#The University of Durham.#--From an early date, frequent mention is +made in the history of the see of Durham, of a college at Oxford called +the Durham College. Its origin is not exactly known, but by the +liberality of several bishops and priors its original endowment +increased, until provision was made for eight fellows and eight +scholars. This was the case at the time of the suppression of the +monasteries by King Henry VIII., when, owing to its connection with the +monastery of Durham, the college was also dissolved. Its revenues, were, +however, rescued, and in 1541 were handed over by the king to the newly +created dean and chapter. Thus the matter stood till 1650, when a +petition was presented to the Protector, showing the great disadvantages +to the North of England arising from the long distance of Oxford and +Cambridge, and praying that the houses of the dean and prebendaries +might be converted into a college. Cromwell took a favourable view of +the idea, and in a letter to Lenthall, the Speaker, in its support, he +says:-- + + "Truly it seems to me a matter of great concernment and importance, + as that which (by the blessing of God) may much conduce to the + promotion of learning and piety in these poore, rude, and ignorant + parts, there being also many concurring advantages to this place, as + pleasantness, and aptness of situation, healthfull aire, and plenty + of provisions, which seeme to favour and pleade for theire desires + therein."[7] + + [7] Hutchinson, vol. i + +Various delays occurred, however, and it was not until 1657 that the +Lord Protector issued his patent for the erection of the proposed +college, in a document consisting of twenty-three heads. + +The college thus commenced made great progress, and would no doubt have +continued to do so, but for the constant opposition of the two great +universities of Oxford and Cambridge. Then followed the Restoration, and +with it came a reaction against all measures established during the +Protectorate. This feeling, combined with persistent petitions from the +universities, soon accomplished the downfall of the College. + +Bishop Van Mildert, who was translated to Durham in 1826, during his +short episcopate saw many changes, not the least of which was the +successful revival of the scheme for a university. Powers were obtained +in 1832 for the training of students in divinity and the conferring of +degrees in other faculties. The new foundation was endowed out of the +revenues of the cathedral, and the bishop gave up the Castle of Durham +for the use of the college, besides financial assistance of L1000 for +the first year and L2000 for the following years until his death in +1836. The first warden was Dr Charles Thorp, Archdeacon and Canon of +Durham, but it was provided by an order, on the recommendation of the +Ecclesiastical Commissioners that in future the office of warden should +be permanently attached to the deanery, and that a canonry in the +cathedral be annexed to each of the professorships of Divinity and +Greek. + +The government of the university is in the hands of the dean and +chapter, and the affairs administered by a warden, senate and +convocation. A royal charter was obtained in 1837 making the university +a corporate body with perpetual succession and a common seal. + +The university, besides its original schools of arts and divinity, has +established schools of physical science and medicine, in connection with +the Durham College of Science at Newcastle-on-Tyne, and has recently +admitted women students to its courses and lectures. + +There are many foundation scholarships and exhibitions in arts, +classics, mathematics, and theology, besides a long list of private +foundations and fellowships. + +The university consists of one college and one hall. The former, +University College, occupies the Castle, and the latter, Bishop +Hatfield's Hall. + +It is well supplied with libraries. The university library founded at +the opening, to which Bishop Van Mildert contributed a valuable +collection. + +The library given in 1855 by the late Dr Martin Routh, president of +Magdalen College, Oxford. + +The library presented by the late Bishop Maltby in 1856, which he +endowed with L1000. + +A library was also bequeathed to the university in 1859 by the late T.M. +Winterbottom, M.D., of Westoe, South Shields. A large collection of +books was bequeathed by the late Bishop Lightfoot. + +Two other important libraries may here be mentioned, though they do not +belong to the University--viz. the Chapter Library and Bishop Cosin's +Library. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +THE CITY + + +Besides the Cathedral and Castle, the City of Durham possesses several +churches of decided interest to the student of architecture, which +deserve a brief notice. + +The Parish Church of #S. Mary in the North Bailey.#--This small +church is generally known as S. Mary le Bow, owing to the fact that in +its original steeple was an arch, through which the roadway passed. This +steeple fell in 1637, and the ancient structure was allowed to lapse +into complete ruin. The present church was built in 1685, and its most +noticeable feature is the open carved screen between the nave and +chancel erected in 1707. The site of the church is the oldest in the +city, and some writers have thought it probably identical with that of +the White Church in which the body of S. Cuthbert was placed during the +building of the cathedral. + +#S. Mary-the-Less# is a small but picturesque church situated in the +South Bailey, and is of Norman date. Its original architectural +character is, however, almost entirely lost, owing to extensive +restorations which took place in 1846-7. The round-headed window now in +the south wall of the chancel, but formerly in the west wall of the +nave, is the only remaining original feature. The church is entered by a +porch on the south side, and consists of a nave and chancel only. Some +stones in the churchyard, which were removed from their position when +the church was restored, are carved with chevron ornament, and would +seem to show that the date of the original structure was the earlier +part of the twelfth century. + +#S. Oswald.#--This church stands on high ground overlooking the river +Wear, at the head of New Elvet; and is the parish church of the ancient +borough of Elvet. The first church was erected by Bishop Carileph, +though the earliest parts of the existing building are of the time of +Bishop Pudsey, who also built the bridge across the river, known as the +Elvet Bridge. To this date (about 1190) belongs the eastern part of the +nave arcade, the arches of which are semi-circular and rest upon tall +round piers. Early in the fourteenth century a new chancel was built, +the aisles rebuilt and extended to the west end, and two new arches +added to the west end of the nave arcades. In the early part of the +fifteenth century a clerestory and open parapet were added, and a new +oak roof placed over the nave. This was most probably a hammer-beam +roof, and was coloured and gilded and decorated with angels holding +shields. The only parts remaining at the present day are the grotesque +carved corbels, and the angels. The tower was also constructed at this +time. In 1834, owing to subsidence of the ground, it became necessary to +rebuild the south aisle and a large part of the chancel, which caused +the destruction of much architectural beauty. The open parapet was +removed, the clerestory windows replaced by the present inferior ones, +and the fine oak roof destroyed. The east end of the chancel was rebuilt +in 1864. Special attention should be directed to the fine oak stall-work +in the chancel, boldly carved in the style of the early part of the +fifteenth century. The tower, which forms a beautiful and conspicuous +landmark, is reached by a stone staircase of unusual character. It is +placed in the thickness of the wall, and is covered in with twenty-four +gravestones of thirteenth and fourteenth century date, on which may yet +be seen portions of inscriptions and symbols. Built into the tower was +part of a Saxon cross, which has now been removed for preservation to +the dean and chapter library. This cross is interesting as evidence of +the existence on the same site of a pre-Norman church. The tower was +carefully restored in 1863. It contains a peal of six bells, which were +re-cast in 1694, and bear the following inscriptions:-- + + 1. GLOVIA(?) IN ALTISSMISS(?) DEO PEX FORSTER A + VIC CHRISTO HODSON ME FECIT 1694. + + 3. DEVM TIMETE PEX FORSTER AM VIC I EVANS C + WARDEN CHRISTO HODSON ME FECIT. + + 4. REGEM HONORATE PEX FORSTER A M VIC 1694 + CHRISTOPR HODSON MADE ME I EVANS I S + H R. + + 5. IBIMUS IN DOMVM DOMINI PEX FORSTER A M VIC + CHRISTOPER HODSON MADE ME 1694 IO EVANS + CHV W. + + 6. OSVALDUS FLOREM MEREOR QVIA GESTO TENOREM + PEX FORSTER AM VIC IO EVANS IS WH RW + CW 94. + +The second bell was cast in 1885. + +#S. Margaret's# Parish Church is situated on the steep hill called +Crossgate. It is opposite to and across the river from the Castle, and +from its churchyard a fine western view of the cathedral is obtained. +The church was built during the early part of the episcopate of Bishop +Pudsey (1154) and was formerly a chapel under the church of S. Oswald. +Here again alterations and restorations have obliterated much that +originally existed. The church at present consists of a nave and aisles, +a chancel with aisles, a western tower, and north and south porches. The +existing portions of the original church are the chancel arch, and the +south arcade of four bays, together with part of the clerestory and the +north wall of the chancel. The arcade consists of low massive circular +piers, with cushion capitals and plain chamfered abaci, which support +semi-circular arches of one order also chamfered. + +The north arcade is also Norman, and very similar in character to that +of S. Oswald. No doubt it is of the same date, and probably built by the +same architect. The chancel arch has two orders, recessed square and +chamfered, with a plain chamfered hood mould. On both north and south +sides of the arch is a squint. With the exception of two which are +Norman, the windows are nearly all of modern date. One is in the north +wall of the chancel and is widely splayed. It is not seen on the outside +owing to the vestry which now covers it. The other, a very interesting +specimen, is situated over the western bay of the south arcade, and is a +portion of the original clerestory and the earliest known clerestory +window in the county. The roof of the nave is of oak, and a good +specimen of Perpendicular work. The tower is of fifteenth-century date, +and exceedingly plain externally, but vaulted in the interior. It opens +on to the church by an arch which has been inserted in the west wall. +There is an interesting font of Frosterley marble, which is apparently +of the same date as the chancel. The vestry which is raised above the +level of the church floor is of the fifteenth century, and has on its +gable the original gable cross. + +[Illustration: The Cathedral and Castle, from the North.] + +The Parish Church of #S. Giles# occupies a very elevated position at +the north-east end of the city, and commands one of the finest views of +the cathedral, castle, and city, which it is possible to obtain. It was +built by Bishop Flambard and finished as early as 1112; but the north +wall of the nave, containing two small Norman windows, widely splayed +inwards, and a walled-up doorway is all that remains of this early +church. The chancel is of later Norman of the time of Pudsey. Both +within and without a bold chamfered string course runs round the +chancel. On the south side is a semi-circular headed window, with a +carved dripstone and nook shafts, the capitals of which bear a similar +character to those in the Galilee Chapel of the cathedral. In the north +wall of the chancel is the priests' door, now walled up, and the corbels +and springers of the original chancel arch built by Pudsey. The present +arch was erected in 1876. In 1414 considerable alterations were made +during the episcopate of Bishop Langley, when the walls of the nave were +raised, the upper stage of the tower built, and the west window +inserted. The font is a fine stone bowl resting on a shaft, and is +undoubtedly of the time of Flambard. The chancel contains some monuments +of the Tempest and Heath families, who were the ancestors of the +Marchioness of Londonderry, patroness of the church and parish of S. +Giles. The tower contains three bells, the first and second of which are +pre-Reformation and the third bears the date 1646. + +On the north side of Gilesgate near to the North-Eastern goods station, +are the ruins of the little #Chapel of S. Mary Magdalen#, of which +only a small portion remains. At the west end of the north and south +walls are two doorways, the latter walled up. Portions of the east +window are still in position, but it would appear to have been of +earlier date than the surrounding walls, and probably had been brought +from some other building. In the interior are the remains of a +Frosterley marble font, and a gable cross of thirteenth-century date is +in the custody of the dean and chapter. The chapel was 43 feet by 161/2 +feet wide. It is supposed to have been founded by Sir John Fitz +Alexander. In 1370 it was almost entirely rebuilt, and again in 1449, on +a site near the original one. The reason for this was the moisture of +the ground, which caused the foundations to become insecure. The +government was in the hands of the almoner of the cathedral, who +distributed doles to the poor. The chapel was used as a place of worship +until nearly the end of the seventeenth century, when, owing to its +ruinous condition, services were finally discontinued. + + * * * * * + + + +[Illustration: PLAN AND DIMENSIONS.] + +PRINCIPAL DIMENSIONS OF THE CATHEDRAL + + Feet. Inches. +Length of Nave 201 0 +Width of Nave 39 0 +Width of Nave Aisles 21 0 +Length of North Transept 66 0 +Length of South Transept 66 0 +Width of Transepts 37 0 +Length of Choir 132 6 +Width of Choir 39 6 +Width of Choir Aisles 19 0 +Length of Nine Altars Chapel 131 0 +Width of Nine Altars Chapel 38 6 +Height of Vaulting of Nine Altars Chapel 77 0 +Height of Vaulting of Choir 74 6 +Height of Vaulting of Nave 72 0 +Height of Vaulting of Lantern 155 0 +Width of Lantern E. to W. 40 6 +Width of Lantern N. to S. 39 0 +Height of Tower Arches 68 6 +Length of Galilee Chapel 77 0 +Width of Galilee 49 0 +Height of Western Towers 144 6 +Height of Central Tower 218 0 +Total length of Church (interior) 469 6 +Thickness of Wall at West End 8 0 + +AREA 44,400 sq. ft. + + * * * * * + + +Transcriber's Notes: + +1. Words and phrases which were italicized in the original have been + surrounded by underscores ('_') in this version. Words or phrases + which were bolded have been surrounded by pound signs ('#'). + +2. Obvious printer's errors have been corrected without note. + +3. Inconsistencies in hyphenation or the spelling of proper names, and + dialect or obsolete word spelling, has been maintained as in the + original. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral +Church of Durham, by J. E. 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