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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 01:19:49 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 01:19:49 -0700 |
| commit | aab6908e919996c9ed70b4e483b01291cd81582d (patch) | |
| tree | 941b9c205efa30b85f8d53007381f73740afe82d /20191-h | |
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diff --git a/20191-h/20191-h.htm b/20191-h/20191-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4c34c72 --- /dev/null +++ b/20191-h/20191-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,4642 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Cathedral Church of DURHAM by J. E. Bygate. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + p { margin-top: .5em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + color: black; + text-indent: 1em; + } + h1, h2, h3, h4, h5, h6 { + text-align: center; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + margin-bottom: 2em; + } + h1, h2 { + margin-top: 2em;} + + hr { width: 67%; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + hr.short { width: 33%; + margin-top: .5em; margin-bottom: .5em; } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + background-color: white; + } + + a {text-decoration: none;} + + .pagenum { position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + color: gray; background-color: white; + } /* page numbers */ + + ul {list-style: none;} + + .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%;} + .outdent {margin-left: 5em; text-indent: -3em;} + .deepdent {margin-left: 10em; text-indent: -5em;} + .center {text-align: center; + margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + .right {text-align: right;} + .xxl {font-size: xx-large;} + .ul {text-decoration: underline; } + .subtitle {font-size: smaller;} + .hang p {text-indent: -2em; + text-align: left; + margin-left: 20%; + margin-right: 20%;} + .tdfol {text-align: center; + font-size: small;} + img {border: none;} + .caption {font-weight: bold;} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; margin-top: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 1.5em;} + + .figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: + 1em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .figright {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + .footnote p {text-indent: 0em;} + .footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} + .fnanchor {vertical-align: super; font-size: .8em; text-decoration: none;} + .sideleft {position: relative; right: 70%; text-align: left; text-indent: 2em; } + + .poem {margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; text-align: left;} + .poem br {display: none;} + .poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + .poem span.i0 {display: block; margin-left: 0em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + .poem span.i2 {display: block; margin-left: 2em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + .poem span.i4 {display: block; margin-left: 4em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + .poem span.i10 {display: block; margin-left: 10em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + + .tocch {text-align: left; } /* cell defs for TOC, illustration lists */ + .tocpn {text-align: right; } + .tocsb {text-align: left; text-indent: 2em;} + + .tnote {text-decoration: none; color: blue; background-color: inherit; } /* transcriber's notes: used with "ins" */ + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral Church of +Durham, by J. E. Bygate + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral Church of Durham + A Description of Its Fabric and A Brief History of the Episcopal See + +Author: J. E. Bygate + +Release Date: December 26, 2006 [EBook #20191] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF DURHAM *** + + + + +Produced by Jonathan Ingram, David Cortesi and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="image01" id="image01"></a> +<a href="images/image01.jpg"> +<img src="images/image01_th.jpg" alt="Durham Cathedral, from the South-West" title="Durham Cathedral, from the South-West" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">Durham Cathedral, from the South-West.</span> +</div> + +<hr /> +<h1><a name='Page_Title' id='Page_Title'></a> +The Cathedral Church Of<br /> +<big>DURHAM</big></h1> +<h2>A Description Of Its Fabric<br /> +And A Brief History Of The<br /> +Episcopal See</h2> +<h4>By</h4> +<h3>J.E. Bygate, A.R.C.A.</h3> + + +<h4>WITH FORTY-FOUR +<a name="image02" id="image02"></a> +<img style="vertical-align: middle;" src="images/image02.png" alt="Arms of the See" title="Arms of the See" /> +ILLUSTRATIONS</h4> + +<h3>London George Bell & Sons 1905</h3> + +<div class="center"> +<table summary="Publishing history" > + <tr> + <td align="left"><i>First Published</i></td> + <td align="right"><i>March 1899</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td align="left"><i>Second Edition, Revised</i></td> + <td align="right"><i>September 1900</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td align="left"><i>Reprinted</i></td> + <td align="right"><i>1905</i></td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> + +<h5><i>The Riverside Press Limited, Edinburgh</i></h5> + +<hr /> + +<h2><a name="GENERAL_PREFACE" id="GENERAL_PREFACE"></a> +GENERAL PREFACE</h2> +<p>This series of monographs has been planned to supply visitors +to the great English Cathedrals with accurate and well illustrated +guide-books at a popular price. The aim of each writer +has been to produce a work compiled with sufficient knowledge +and scholarship to be of value to the student of Archæology +and History, and yet not too technical in language for the use +of an ordinary visitor or tourist.</p> + +<p>To specify all the authorities which have been made use of +in each case would be difficult and tedious in this place. But +amongst the general sources of information which have been +almost invariably found useful are:—(1) the great county +histories, the value of which, especially in questions of genealogy +and local records, is generally recognised; (2) the +numerous papers by experts which appear from time to +time in the Transactions of the Antiquarian and Archæological +Societies; (3) the important documents made accessible in +the series issued by the Master of the Rolls; (4) the well-known +works of Britton and Willis on the English Cathedrals; +and (5) the very excellent series of Handbooks to the +Cathedrals originated by the late Mr John Murray; to which +the reader may in most cases be referred for fuller detail, +especially in reference to the histories of the respective sees.</p> + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="AUTHORS_PREFACE" id="AUTHORS_PREFACE"></a> +AUTHOR'S PREFACE</h2> + +<p>As much as possible of this brief description of Durham +is from the personal acquaintance of the writer with the +building. Yet many authorities have, of necessity, been consulted +in its preparation, notably a pamphlet by the Rev. +Canon W. Greenwell, and the "County of Durham," by +J.R. Boyle, F.S.A. Thanks are also due to the authorities +of the Cathedral for having freely given permission to make +drawings and measurements, and to the late Mr Weatherall, +chief verger, for his kindly assistance and information.</p> + +<p>The illustrations are chiefly from sketches and drawings by +the writer, and from photographs reproduced by the kindness +of the Photochrom Company, Ltd., and Messrs S.B. Bolas +& Co.</p> + +<p style='text-align: right;'>J.E.B.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a> +CONTENTS</h2> + +<div class="center"> +<table summary="toc" width="75%"> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.—The Building of the Church</a></td><td class="tocpn">3</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.—Description of the Exterior</a></td><td class="tocpn">21</td></tr> + <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#II_1">The Towers</a></td><td class="tocpn">21</td></tr> + <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#II_2">The East Front</a></td><td class="tocpn">22</td></tr> + <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#II_3">The West Front</a></td><td class="tocpn">25</td></tr> + <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#II_4">The North Door</a></td><td class="tocpn">25</td></tr> + <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#II_5">The South Door</a></td><td class="tocpn">26</td></tr> + <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#II_6">The West Door</a></td><td class="tocpn">28</td></tr> + <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#II_7">The Cloister</a></td><td class="tocpn">29</td></tr> + <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#II_8">The Chapter-House</a></td><td class="tocpn">32</td></tr> + <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#II_9">The Dun Cow</a></td><td class="tocpn">35</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.—Description of the Interior</a></td><td class="tocpn">39</td></tr> + <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#III_1">The Nave</a></td><td class="tocpn">39</td></tr> + <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#III_2">The Choir</a></td><td class="tocpn">40</td></tr> + <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#III_3">The Neville Screen</a></td><td class="tocpn">43</td></tr> + <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#III_4">The Transepts</a></td><td class="tocpn">50</td></tr> + <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#III_5">The Tower</a></td><td class="tocpn">53</td></tr> + <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#III_6">The East End</a></td><td class="tocpn">54</td></tr> + <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#III_7">The Chapel of the Nine Altars</a></td><td class="tocpn">61</td></tr> + <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#III_8">The Tomb of S. Cuthbert</a></td><td class="tocpn">69</td></tr> + <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#III_9">The Galilee or Lady Chapel</a></td><td class="tocpn">72</td></tr> + <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#III_10">Monuments in the Nave and Transepts</a></td><td class="tocpn">79</td></tr> + <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#III_11">The Font</a></td><td class="tocpn">81</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.—History of the See</a></td><td class="tocpn">82</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.—The Castle and University</a></td><td class="tocpn">102</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.—The City</a></td><td class="tocpn">111</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<hr /> + +<h2><a name="ILLUSTRATIONS" id="ILLUSTRATIONS"></a> +ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> + +<div class="center"> +<table summary="toc" width="75%"> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image01">Durham Cathedral, from the South-West</a></td><td class="tocpn"><i>Frontispiece</i></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image02">Arms of the See</a></td><td class="tocpn"><i>Title Page</i></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image03">The Exterior, from the College</a></td><td class="tocpn">2</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image04">The Dun Cow</a></td><td class="tocpn">9</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image05">The West End (from an Old Print)</a></td><td class="tocpn">17</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image06">The Exterior, from Palace Green</a></td><td class="tocpn">20</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image07">The Central Tower</a></td><td class="tocpn">23</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image08">Detail of Ironwork</a></td><td class="tocpn">27</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image09">The Sanctuary Knocker</a></td><td class="tocpn">25</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image10">Ironwork on Doors of Cloisters</a></td><td class="tocpn">27</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image11">Ornament on South Doorway</a></td><td class="tocpn">28</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image12">The Cloister</a></td><td class="tocpn">29</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image13">S. Cuthbert's Chest</a></td><td class="tocpn">32</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image14">The Chapter-House</a></td><td class="tocpn">34</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image15">The Exterior, from the South-East</a></td><td class="tocpn">36</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image16">The Nave, looking West</a></td><td class="tocpn">38</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image17">One Bay of the Nave (Measured Drawing)</a></td><td class="tocpn">40</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image18">Triforium and Clerestory</a></td><td class="tocpn">45</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image19">The Choir, looking West</a></td><td class="tocpn">47</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image20">The Transepts, looking North</a></td><td class="tocpn">50</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image21">Corbels in Choir</a></td><td class="tocpn">54,58</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image22">The Choir, looking East</a></td><td class="tocpn">55</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image23">Triforium of Nave and Choir</a></td><td class="tocpn">59</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image24">Plan of Norman East End</a></td><td class="tocpn">58</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image25">Sections of Hood and Arch Mouldings</a></td><td class="tocpn">62</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image26">Capitals in the Nine Altars Chapel</a></td><td class="tocpn">62</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image27">The Nine Altars Chapel</a></td><td class="tocpn">63</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image28">Capital in Galilee Chapel</a></td><td class="tocpn">66</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image29">The Galilee Chapel</a></td><td class="tocpn">67, 72</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image30">Paintings in the Galilee Chapel</a></td><td class="tocpn">74</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image31">Detail of the Galilee Chapel</a></td><td class="tocpn">75</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image32">The Font and Cover</a></td><td class="tocpn">81</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image33">The Crypt</a></td><td class="tocpn">85</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image34">Stone Coffin Lid</a></td><td class="tocpn">88</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image35">The Chapter Library</a></td><td class="tocpn">101</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image36">The Chapel or Crypt, Durham Castle</a></td><td class="tocpn">102</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image37">Staircase in the Castle</a></td><td class="tocpn">107</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image38">The Cathedral and Castle, from the North</a></td><td class="tocpn">113</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image39">PLAN AND DIMENSIONS</a></td><td class="tocpn">118</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<hr /> + +<div class="figcenter"> + +<a name="image03" id="image03"></a> +<a href="images/image03.jpg"> +<img src="images/image03_th.jpg" alt="The Exterior, from the College" title="The Exterior, from the College" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">The Exterior, from the College.</span> +</div> + +<hr /> +<p><a name='Page_3' id='Page_3'></a><span class="pagenum">3</span></p> +<h1> +DURHAM CATHEDRAL</h1> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a href="#CONTENTS">Table of<br />Contents</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a> +CHAPTER I<br /> +<span class="subtitle">The Building Of The Church</span></h2> + +<p>The traveller northward by the East Coast Route cannot fail +to be struck by the beauty of the city of Durham, with its +red-roofed houses nestling beneath the majestic site of the +cathedral and castle. For splendid position the Cathedral +of Durham stands unequalled in this country; on the Continent, +perhaps that of Albi can alone be compared with it +in this respect. The cathedral and Norman Castle are upon +the summit of a lofty tongue of land which is almost surrounded +by the River Wear. In parts the banks are rocky +and steep, in others thickly wooded. The river itself is +spanned here and there by fine and historic bridges.</p> + +<p>The early history of Durham is obscure. There are many +vague legends in existence, a natural consequence, perhaps, +when we remember the various and often speedy changes of +ownership to which that part of the country was for centuries +subjected.</p> + +<p>To lead up clearly to the founding of the Cathedral of +Durham, it will be necessary to describe briefly the earliest +introduction of Christianity into the north of England. That +Christianity was known in this country during the time of +the Romans there is sufficient evidence to prove. There is, +however, little to show that it existed in the north to any +appreciable extent. All or nearly all the carved stones, altars, +etc., disinterred in that part of the country have been of +undoubted Pagan origin.</p> + +<p>The ancient kingdom of Northumbria comprised the +present counties of Durham, Northumberland, and Yorkshire, +and a part of the south-east of Scotland as far north as the +<a name='Page_4' id='Page_4'></a><span class="pagenum">4</span>Firth +of Forth. This kingdom was sub-divided into two +portions. The Southern, or Deira, extended from the Tees +to the Humber, and the Northern, or Bernicia, reached from +the Tees to the Firth of Forth. The province of Bernicia +was settled about A.D. 547 by Ida, a chief of the Angles, who +made his headquarters on a steep rock on the sea-coast about +sixteen miles south of Berwick. He was succeeded by his son +Ethelric, who built himself a stronghold, which he named after +his wife Bebbanburgh, a name still retained in a shortened +form—Bamburgh. Ethelric was followed by Ella, whose son +Edwin was driven into exile by his fierce brother-in-law, +Ethelfrith, and took possession of Deira, the southern province +of Northumbria. After attaining his majority, Edwin, +assisted by Redwald, regained his kingdom, and eventually +ruled over the whole of Northumbria; it is during his reign +that we find the first authentic history of Christianity in the +north. Edwin married Ethelburga, a daughter of Ethelbert, +king of Kent, who had been converted to Christianity by +the preaching of S. Augustine. He himself received baptism +at the hands of Paulinus (625-633), the great Roman +missionary, who was sent north with the Princess Ethelburga. +Paulinus fixed his headquarters at York, where he built his +church, the forerunner of the present cathedral. This +attempt of the Romans to christianise Northumbria was, +however, of short duration. Cadwalla and Penda rose +against them, and Edwin fell in battle at Hatfield Moor in +Yorkshire. Paulinus, despairing of the cause, returned to +Kent with the queen-widow Ethelburga and her children; +and under Cadwalla and Penda, the kingdom soon relapsed +into Paganism.</p> + +<p>We must now direct our attention to a small, barren island +on the west coast of Scotland, Iona. Here came a voluntary +exile (A.D. 563), Columba, a monk, said to have been a +descendant of the Irish kings. Here he lived and founded +a great missionary monastery, which afterwards became the +centre of Christian influence in Scotland and the north of +England. He and his followers were active workers; they +wrote Gospels and devotional books, preached, and built +churches of wood. Columba died (A.D. 597), but his work +was continued.</p> + +<p>In 634, Oswald, a son of Ethelfrith, became king +of<a name='Page_5' id='Page_5'></a><span class="pagenum">5</span> +Northumbria. In his youth he, with his brothers, had been +obliged to flee to Scotland, where, during his exile, Oswald +was converted to Christianity by the teachers of Iona. On +his return he defeated and killed Cadwalla at Hevenfeld, +or Heavenfield, near Hexham, in 634, and became the means +of finally introducing Christianity into his kingdom. Soon +after he became king, Oswald sent to Iona for help, and in +reply came a monk, who, for some reason, said by old writers +to be his harshness, failed in his mission. He was replaced +by another monk named Aidan (635-651), who was eminently +successful. Beda speaks of him as "a man of great piety +and zeal, combined with tender charity and gentleness." +Aidan became intimately associated with King Oswald, the +two working together, and he chose for his headquarters the +small sandy island of Lindisfarne, off the Northumbrian coast, +which we now know as "Holy Island."</p> + +<p>Lindisfarne thus resembled Iona, and it is probable that +the similarity of position and surroundings influenced Aidan +in his choice. However that may be, Aidan there founded +his monastery and directed the work of his monks.</p> + +<p>Passing over a short period, we find at Lindisfarne a +monk who is so intimately connected with this cathedral that +he demands special attention—the great S. Cuthbert, sixth +bishop of Lindisfarne, and the patron saint of Durham. Little +is known of his birth and parentage. Some writers give him +a Scotch origin, others Irish,<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href='#Footnote_A_1' class="fnanchor">1</a> +and others again say he was +born of humble parents on the banks of the Tweed. The +latter is most probable. Certain it is that at an early age +he was left an orphan, and was employed as an under-shepherd +near to Melrose. From his earliest youth he was thoughtful +and pious, and watched and imitated in his mode of life +the monks of Melrose. There are numerous legends and +stories of S. Cuthbert's youth. He is said to have wrought +many miracles, even to the extent of stilling a tempest. One +of these may be told here on account of the share it played +in his choice of monastic life:—On a certain night in A.D. 651, +while tending his sheep, his companions being asleep, +Cuthbert<a name='Page_6' id='Page_6'></a><span class="pagenum">6</span> +saw in the heavens a brilliant shaft of light, and angels +descending. These very shortly re-ascended, bearing among +them "a spirit of surpassing brightness." In the morning it +was found that the good S. Aidan was dead. The vision +had a marked and lasting effect on Cuthbert, and eventually +resulted in his entering the monastery at Melrose. For ten +years Cuthbert led a holy and studious life at Melrose, under +Prior Boisil, when he was chosen among others to proceed +to the newly-founded monastery at Ripon. His sojourn +there was, however, short, as owing to doctrinal differences +concerning the celebration of Easter, he and the other +Scottish monks returned to Melrose. Some four years later, +on the death of Boisil, Cuthbert was elected his successor, +as prior of Melrose. In A.D. 664, we find him holding the +same office at Lindisfarne, where he remained for twelve +years. He then retired from his position, in order to attain +a higher degree of Christian perfection by living a solitary +life, first on a small island near Lindisfarne, and afterwards +on the island of Farne, near Bamburgh. There are many +stories told of his great piety at this time, so that even the +wild sea-birds are said to have obeyed him.</p> + +<p>In the year A.D. 685 Cuthbert was, though against his own +wishes, consecrated Bishop of Lindisfarne. His great activity +and usefulness in this office was soon cut short, for in less +than two years, on the 20th of March A.D. 687, he died. +Obediently to his own request, his body was wrapped in a +linen cloth, which had been given him by the Abbess Yerca; +and, placed in a stone coffin, the gift of the Abbot Cudda, was +interred in the church at Lindisfarne. He was not to rest, +however. In A.D. 698 the monks disinterred his remains in +order to place them in a specially-prepared wooden coffin. It +is said they found the saint's body perfectly incorrupt. To +quote the quaint Hegge:</p> + +<blockquote> +<p>But whiles they opened his coffin, they start at a wonder, +they look't for bones and found flesh, they expected a skeleton, +and saw an entire bodie, with joynts flexible, his flesh so +succulent, that there only wanted heate to make his bodie live +without a soul, and his face so dissembling death, that elsewhere +it is true that sleep is the image of death, but here +death was the image of sleep. Nay, his very funerall weeds +were so fresh, as if putrefaction had not dared to take him +<a name='Page_7' id='Page_7'></a><span class="pagenum">7</span>by +the coat.<a name="FNanchor_B_2" id="FNanchor_B_2"></a><a href='#Footnote_B_2' class="fnanchor">2</a></p> +</blockquote> + +<p>Whatever may be the truth of this, his body +was placed in a wooden coffin, portions of which are still +preserved in the chapter library at Durham.</p> + +<p>Over a century and a half after these events the coast of +Northumbria was disturbed and troubled by the piratical +invasions of the Danes. The number and violence of these +incursions so increased that the whole country lay practically +at their mercy. Becoming alarmed for their own safety and +that of their holy relics, the monks of Lindisfarne fled, taking +with them the body of their saint, and all their sacred vessels +and books. This occurred in A.D. 875.</p> + +<p>Here commenced that long wandering which eventually +ended in the founding of the Cathedral Church of Durham, +where the bones of S. Cuthbert found their final resting-place.</p> + +<p>Bishop Eardulph and his monks, with their sacred charge, +travelled for seven years, over a great portion of the north of +England and part of the south of Scotland. Many churches +dedicated to S. Cuthbert in the north are thought to mark their +resting-places. From a list of these given by Prior Wessington +the probable route of the wanderers can be approximately, +made out as follows:—First to Elsdon and down the Rede to +Haydon Bridge. Up the South Tyne to Beltinghame, and then +following the route of the Roman Wall to Bewcastle. Turning +south to Salkeld, and thence by Eden Hall and Plumbland +into Lancashire, towards the river Derwent. Here they came +to a determination to cross to Ireland, and took ship from the +mouth of the Derwent. Very soon a violent storm arose, the +vessel became unmanageable and was nearly filled with water, +which, according to Symeon, immediately turned into blood. +A return was inevitable. It was during this attempt that the +famous copy of the Gospels, known as the Durham Book, was +washed overboard into the sea. This book is, perhaps, the +most beautiful example of Anglo-Saxon writing and illumination +extant, and is surpassed only by the celebrated Irish MS., +the Book of Kells. It was shortly afterwards found on +the coast in a comparatively uninjured condition; and is +now preserved in the British Museum. The wandering +monks next turned northwards as far as Witherne, on the +Galloway coast, and then returned to England, through +<a name='Page_8' id='Page_8'></a><span class="pagenum">8</span>Westmoreland +and across Stainmoor into Teesdale, staying for +a time at a village, which no doubt owes it present name +Cotherstone to this circumstance. Leaving here and crossing +the hills, through Marske, Forcett and Barton, they arrived at +the abbey of Craike, near Easingwold, where they were kindly +treated by the abbot, and remained about four months. On +resuming their journey the monks removed the body of +S. Cuthbert to Cuncachester, or, as we now know it, Chester-le-Street, +a former Roman camp. Here the fraternity remained +for a hundred and thirteen years; and here was the seat of +the Bishopric of Bernicia until A.D. 995. Many are the legends +clustering round these journeyings. How, when leaving Lindisfarne, +the sea opened a passage for them, and how in more +than one difficulty the dead saint himself gave them assistance. +Notably, on one occasion when the bearers were +worn out and weary he appeared and showed them where +they would find a horse and car in which to carry their +burden. This horse and car were afterwards used on their +journeys.</p> + +<p>In the year 995, again for safety, they removed once more +under Bishop Aldhun, first for a short time to Ripon, and +then finally to Durham. It is of this last journey the following +story is told:—</p> + +<blockquote> +<p>"Coming with him" (<i>v.</i> Sanderson), "on the <i>East</i> Side of +<i>Durham</i>, to a Place call'd <i>Wardenlawe,</i> they could not +with all their Force remove his body further, for it seemed +fastened to the Ground; which strange and unforeseen +Accident produced great Astonishment in the Hearts of +the Bishop, the Monks, and their Associates; whereupon +they fasted and prayed three Days with great Devotion, +to know by Revelation from God, what to do with the holy +Body, which was soon granted to them, it being revealed +to <i>Eadmer</i>, a virtuous Man, that he should be carried to +<i>Dunholme</i>, where he was to be received to a Place of Rest. +They were again in great Distress, in not knowing where +<i>Dunholme</i> lay; but as they proceeded, a Woman wanting +her Cow, called aloud to her Companion, to know if she had +seen her? Who answered, She was in <i>Dunholme</i>. This +was an happy and heavenly Sound to the distressed Monks, +who thereby had Intelligence that their Journey's End was +at Hand, and the Saint's Body near its Resting-place; +thereupon with great Joy they arrived with his Body at +<i>Dunholme</i>, in the Year 997."</p> +</blockquote> + +<p><a name='Page_9' id='Page_9'></a><span class="pagenum">9</span></p> + +<div class="center"> +<a name="image04" id="image04"></a> +<a href="images/image04.jpg"> +<img src="images/image04_th.jpg" alt="The Dun Cow." title="The Dun Cow." /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">The Dun Cow.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name='Page_11' id='Page_11'></a><span class="pagenum">11</span> +Arrived at Dunholm they raised a "little Church of Wands +and Branches" to protect the sacred relics until a building +more worthy of such a charge could be erected. This was +the beginning of the Cathedral and City of Durham.</p> + +<p>The condition of the place at this time must have been +very wild, and it certainly was a natural stronghold. The +only open spot seems to have been the plateau where the +cathedral now stands. The site is curiously described in a +Saxon poem, from which the following is a translation:—</p> + +<div class="center"> +<table summary="center poem"> +<tr><td align="left"> + The City is celebrated<br /> + In the whole Empire of the Britons<br /> + The road to it is steep<br /> + It is surrounded with rocks<br /> + And with curious plants<br /> + The Wear flows round it<br /> + A river of rapid waves<br /> + And there live in it<br /> + Fishes of various kinds<br /> + Mingling with the floods.<br /> + And there grow<br /> + Great Forests,<br /> + There live in the recesses<br /> + Wild Animals of many sorts<br /> + In the deep valleys<br /> + Deer innumerable. +</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>As soon as possible a stone chapel was built, in which the +body of S. Cuthbert was placed. Bishop Aldhun, not satisfied +with this, determined to establish a great church. Work was +immediately commenced and progressed so rapidly that the +building, known as "the White Church," was consecrated in +A.D. 999. Of this there would seem to be no authentic +remains existing; although some authorities think portions +of it are included in the present cathedral. Bishop Aldhun +died in 1018. The next date of importance is the year 1081, +when William of Saint Carileph was appointed Bishop by the +Conqueror. He was a monk of the Benedictine order, and +at once drove out and dispossessed the secular clergy at +Durham, replacing them from the Benedictine Monasteries +which were established at Jarrow and Monkwearmouth. +Bishop Carileph is the man to whom we owe the present +Cathedral of Durham. In 1088 he was obliged to flee into +<a name='Page_12' id='Page_12'></a><span class="pagenum">12</span> +exile in Normandy, where he remained three years, through +his having taken part in the rebellion against William II. +It was probably during this time of banishment that he conceived +the idea that if he returned to Durham he would +build a more worthy church, such as were already erected +and in course of construction in Normandy.</p> + +<p>Soon after his return in 1091 he commenced to carry out +his scheme; and we learn that on the 11th of August 1093, the +foundation stone of the new church was laid, with great pomp.</p> + +<p>The work proceeded rapidly, commencing at the east +end. By the time of Bishop Carileph's death, which occurred +in 1096, the walls of the choir, the eastern walls of the +transepts, the tower arches, and a portion of the first bay of +the nave, were completed. It is also very probable that the +lower portion of the walls of the whole church are of Carileph's +time.</p> + +<p>After the death of Bishop Carileph the see of Durham remained +vacant for three years. The monks, however, were +not idle during this period, and they continued the work +vigorously, completing the west walls of the transepts and the +vaulting of the north transept. In 1099 Ralph Flambard +was appointed bishop, and he held the office until 1128. He +carried on the building as the funds at his disposal would +allow, sometimes rapidly and at others more slowly. Before +his death it would appear that he completed the nave as +high as the wall plates and altogether finished and roofed +the aisles. The western towers as far as the height of the +roof of the nave are also the work of Flambard. In 1104 the +work was so far advanced as to permit the removal of the +body of S. Cuthbert, from the temporary shrine which Bishop +Carileph had erected over it, into the new church. This +ceremony was performed on August 29th, 1104, and the +coffin was placed in a shrine behind the high altar.</p> + +<p>On Flambard's death in 1128 the see was again left vacant +for five years, but we are told that the monks continued the +work and completed the nave. The portion built by them +at this time must of necessity have been the vaulting and +roof, the architectural features of which are quite in accordance +with the date, being late Norman.</p> + +<p>Flambard's successor was Galfrid Rufus, who was Bishop +from 1133 to 1140.</p> + +<p><a name='Page_13' id='Page_13'></a><span class="pagenum">13</span> +During his episcopate the chapter-house, which had been +commenced by the monks, was completed. Rufus also +replaced the then existing north and south doorways of the +nave, by those standing to-day.</p> + +<p>The next bishop, William de St Barbara (1143 to 1152), +does not appear to have added anything to the cathedral. +During his time of office the see was usurped by William +Cummin, and building operations were no doubt neglected +through the troubles arising from the usurpation. His successor, +Hugh Pudsey (1153 to 1195) was, however, a great builder; +appointed to the see at a comparatively early age, and, living +as he did, at a time when very great changes were taking place +in architectural style, he was able to carry out a great deal +of beautiful work.</p> + +<p>He began to build a Lady Chapel at the east end of the +choir, but although he had made careful preparations, and +engaged skilled architects and workmen, great cracks appeared +in the walls before the work had proceeded far, and the +building was stopped. Bishop Pudsey, taking this as a +divine revelation that the work was not pleasing to God, +and the patron S. Cuthbert, abandoned it and commenced +another chapel at the west end of the church, using in its +erection the Purbeck marble bases and columns which he had +had prepared for his eastern chapel. This second attempt +was successful and remains to us in that beautiful and unique +specimen of Transitional work, the Galilee Chapel. Its date +may be taken, says Canon Greenwell, "as about the year +1175." Besides this work Pudsey built the hall and solar now +called (at the top) the "Norman Gallery" of Durham Castle.</p> + +<p>Little or nothing further seems to have been done until the +translation of Bishop Poore from the see of Sarum to Durham +in 1229. The name of Bishop Poore is inseparably connected +with the building of the present Salisbury Cathedral, +and after his removal to Durham he conceived the idea of, +and made preparations for, commencing the eastern transept +of the Cathedral, which is a special feature of Durham, now +known as the Chapel of the Nine Altars. He was not, +however, destined to live to see his idea carried out.</p> + +<p>The eastern termination of Carileph's choir had been apsidal; +it was found to be in a very unsafe condition, cracks and +fissures appearing in the walls. Various bishops and priors +<a name='Page_14' id='Page_14'></a><span class="pagenum">14</span> +sent aid towards "the new work," but actual building did not +commence until after the death of Bishop Poore in 1237. The +erection was commenced by Prior Melsanby and, of course, +necessitated the taking down of Carileph's apses. The +revaulting of the choir was undertaken at this time, doubtless, +for artistic reasons, to bring the new work into harmony +with the old. The Chapel of the Nine Altars is a rare and +valuable specimen of Early English Gothic architecture of +remarkable and graceful design. Below each of its nine +lancet windows was originally an altar, dedicated to different +saints. Its great height was obtained by lowering the floor, so +that the unity of the whole exterior should not be destroyed. +Prior Melsanby is also said to have put a new roof on the +church.</p> + +<p>Prior Hugh de Derlington, who was at the head of affairs +from 1258 to 1272, and later from 1285 to 1289, added a belfry +to the central tower.</p> + +<p>John Fossor, made prior of Durham in 1342, inserted the +large window in the north transept and the west windows of +the nave.</p> + +<p>Bishop Thomas de Hatfield (1346 to 1381) seems to have +done no architectural work beyond the erection of his own +throne and tomb (in which he was afterwards buried) on the +south side of the choir. This is an elaborate and sumptuous +piece of work, and shows remains of rich colouring and gilding. +About this time, also, the beautiful altar screen known +as the Neville screen was erected. Its cost was principally +borne by Lord John Neville, though the Priors Fossor and +Berrington and the subordinate cells of Jarrow and Monkwearmouth +were also contributors. The screen is of stone—very +light and graceful, and originally contained in the niches +107 figures, which have unfortunately been destroyed.</p> + +<p>Bishop Walter de Skirlaw, who occupied the episcopal throne +from 1388 to 1405, was a great builder. To him mainly we +owe the present cloisters, though they were completed by his +successor, Cardinal Langley, in 1418.</p> + +<p>The monks' dormitory on the western side of the cloister +is also of this time. On the southern side was the refectory. +This portion was rebuilt by Dean Sudbury between 1661 and +1684 and converted into a library, and such it remains to-day.</p> + +<p>Near the refectory is the kitchen, built by Prior Fossor. It +<a name='Page_15' id='Page_15'></a><span class="pagenum">15</span> +is octagonal in plan, and possesses a fine groined roof. It is +now attached to the deanery, and known as the dean's +kitchen.</p> + +<p>We must now turn our attention to the erection of the +present central tower. The belfry added by Hugh de +Derlington was in 1429 struck by lightning and set on fire. +It must after this have been repaired in some way, but in +1456 it was in a very unsafe and dangerous condition, as the +following letter written by the prior, William Ebchester, to +Bishop Neville testifies:—</p> + +<blockquote> +<p>"The Belfry of your church, both in its masonry and +timber, in consequence of winds and storms is so enfeebled +and shaken, that doubts are entertained of its +standing for any length of time. We have called in +workmen in both capacities, and they have reported to us +that three of its sides are out of perpendicular, that many +of the Key and cornerstones of its windows have fallen +out, that in other respects it is defective, and that besides, +its woodwork is in a state of great decay so that it cannot +be expected to stand for any length of time. Some are of +opinion that the belfry should be totally removed as it +cannot stand longer; others on the contrary, wish it to +be perfectly restored; a thing which exceeds our means, +unless we have the advantage of charitable aid. In this +state of doubt and hesitation, we have recourse to you, as +members to their head, presuming not to engage in any +such great and stupendous alteration with reference to your +church, without your advice.</p> + +<p>"If, which God forbid, the tower should fall, the solemn +fabric of our choir, and the shrine of our most holy patron, +would without doubt, be broken down and irrevocably laid +flat on the ground, for that is the direction in which it leans. +We confess that whenever winds and storms are high, and +we are standing at our duty in that part of the church we +tremble for our fate, having positive danger before our eyes."</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>Shortly afterwards, the rebuilding of all the upper part of +the central tower was commenced and continued for some +years. It was not complete in 1474 when Richard Bell was +prior, as in a letter written at the time he mentions the +"reedificacion of our steeple, begun but nogt fynyshed, in +defaulte of goods, as God knoweth." It is therefore most +<a name='Page_16' id='Page_16'></a><span class="pagenum">16</span> +probable that the upper portion was not completed until +towards the close of the fifteenth century.</p> + +<p>We have now reached a period when the glories of Gothic +architecture were fading, during which many of our finest +churches suffered considerably. Durham is no exception to the +rule, and we find during the next two centuries a long record +of destruction and so-called improvement. This, perhaps, +reached its worst stage during the time of Wyatt, who in 1796 +pulled down the magnificent Norman chapter-house. During +the last decade, however, this has been completely rebuilt +from as nearly as possible the original design. Wyatt also +rebuilt the turrets on the eastern transept or Nine Altar Chapel +from his own design, and removed the great Early English +rose window in the east end and replaced it by the present +one. The original stained glass was taken out of all the +windows of the east end, and Raine, in his history, tells us +that it "lay for a long time afterwards in baskets upon the +floor, and when the greater part of it had been purloined, +the remainder was locked up in the Galilee.... At a still +later period, about fifteen years ago, portions of it were +placed in the great round window, and the rest still remains +unappropriated." This was written in 1833. It is also on +record that Wyatt formed a scheme to re-open the great +western doorway of the cathedral by the pulling down of the +Galilee Chapel, from which he intended constructing a carriage-drive +to the castle. This abomination was actually commenced +when Dean Cornwallis arrived, and he, with the assistance +of John Carter, and the Society of Antiquaries, was fortunately +able to put a stop to it. Thus was this beautiful and unique +specimen of Transitional Norman architecture preserved to us.</p> + +<p>Wyatt contemplated several other "improvements" of a +similar character, one of which was the surmounting of the +central tower by a spire, but fortunately he was not allowed +to carry them out.</p> + +<p>During the present century many restorations have been +made, of which we will mention only the most notable:—The +central tower was restored by Sir Gilbert Scott in +1859.<a name='Page_17' id='Page_17'></a><span class="pagenum">17</span> +</p> + +<div class="center"> +<a name="image05" id="image05"></a> +<a href="images/image05.png"><img src="images/image05_th.png" alt="The West End (from an Old Print)." title="The West End (from an Old Print)." /> +</a><br /> +<span class="caption">The West End in the Seventeenth Century.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name='Page_18' id='Page_18'></a><span class="pagenum">18</span> +During 1870 to 1876 extensive internal alterations were +made. A new choir screen and pulpit were erected, the floor +of the choir laid in marble mosaic, the choir stalls returned to +their original positions, and the walls of the church scraped in +order to clear them from the many coats of lime and distemper +which lay on them.</p> + +<p>The Norman chapter-house has lately been restored and in +great part rebuilt as a memorial to the late Bishop Lightfoot. +</p> + + +<hr /> +<p><a name='Page_20' id='Page_20'></a><span class="pagenum">20</span></p> +<div class="center"> +<a name="image06" id="image06"></a> +<a href="images/image06.jpg"><img src="images/image06_th.jpg" alt="The Exterior, From Palace Green." title="The Exterior, From Palace Green." /> +</a><br /> +<span class="caption">The Exterior, From Palace Green.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a href="#CONTENTS">Table of<br />Contents</a><br />21</span><a name='Page_21' id='Page_21'></a></p> + +<h2> +<a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II<br /> +<span class="subtitle">Description of the Exterior</span></h2> + +<p>Approaching the Cathedral Church of Durham from the north +by the large open space between it and the Castle, known as +the Palace Green, we obtain a complete elevation of the whole +structure. There is little room to doubt, though the details +naturally vary with the date of erection, that the original plan +of Carileph's church has been carried out in its entirety, +with two exceptions. These are the addition of the eastern +transept or nine altar chapel at the east, and the Galilee or +Lady Chapel at the west end. The entire length of the building, +not including the Galilee chapel, is 431 feet, which is made up +as follows:—Nine altar chapel 51 feet, the choir 120 feet, the +transept 57 feet, and the nave 203 feet.</p> + +<p><a name="II_1" id="II_1"></a>The <b>Western Towers</b> are square and solid, and were +evidently included in Carileph's own scheme, as the wall +arcades on both the interior and exterior are carried round +them. The Norman work is continued as far as the nave roof, +and it is extremely probable that they were originally terminated +at this height, in accordance with the Norman custom, with low +pyramidal spires, probably of wood. Exactly at what date they +were raised is not on record, but the style of architecture of +the upper portion suggests the early part of the thirteenth. +century. The added portion, namely that above the clerestory, +consists of four stages, and is beautifully varied by moulded +arcading, with blind and open arches. The first and third +stages have pointed arches, while those of the second and +fourth are round. Above this again were tall wooden spires +covered with lead. These were removed about the year 1657, +and towards the close of the eighteenth century the present +pinnacles and open parapets were added. At this time, also, +much of the surface of the towers was renewed.</p> + +<p> +The <b>Central Tower.</b>—The present central tower is noble +<a name='Page_22' id='Page_22'></a><span class="pagenum">22</span> +in proportion, and forms a fitting and harmonious summit to +the whole group. It must needs be of a very different character +from the old Norman tower, of which no trace now remains; +and was most probably of the usual type, low and square, and +surmounted by a short pyramidal spire. The existing structure +may be attributed to Bishop Booth and Prior Richard Bell, +about 1474, when the letter previously quoted was written. +Externally the tower is divided into two storeys. The lower +portion contains, on each side, a pair of two-light windows, +glazed, each divided by a transom, and their heads having an +ogee label crocketed and finished with a tall finial also +crocketed. Between and on either side of these windows are +panelled pilasters and brackets carrying figures. The lower +and upper stages are divided by a narrow external gallery +running round the tower, and protected by a pierced, embattled +parapet. This is known as the Bell Ringers' Gallery, and +certainly adds greatly to the effect of the tower as a whole. +The upper stage, which is much less lofty, has also two two-light +windows on each face, surmounted by crocketed ogee +label mouldings and finials. These lights are louvred. The +whole is surmounted by a deep open-work parapet. On each +angle of the tower are two buttresses, which are decorated with +panelling and canopied and crocketed niches containing figures. +The interior of the tower or lantern is remarkable for the gallery +which runs round it, which is reached from the roofs of the nave +and choir transepts by doors. It rests on corbels, each alternate +one being carved with grotesque heads, and is protected by a +parapet pierced in quatrefoils. The four doorways are ogee-headed, +with crockets and finials. There is strong evidence in +the construction of the present tower that it was the original +intention to surmount it by some other erection, probably a spire. +Each interior angle contains strong and massive squinches +which are of no constructive use at present, and must have +been originally inserted to carry some superstructure. The +buttresses at the angles are also carried up to the parapet, +which would seem to point to the same conclusion. Why this +project was never carried out cannot be said, but probably it +would not have added to the artistic effect of the tower. +The belfry contains a peal of eight bells.<a name='Page_23' id='Page_23'></a><span class="pagenum">23</span> +</p> + +<div class="center"> +<a name="image07" id="image07"></a> +<a href="images/image07.jpg"><img src="images/image07_th.jpg" alt="The Central Tower." title="The Central Tower." /> +</a><br /> +<span class="caption">The Central Tower, From Palace Green.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="II_2" id="II_2"></a>The <b>East Front.</b>—The circumstances which led to the +removal of Carileph's apses and the erection of the eastern +<a name='Page_25' id='Page_25'></a><span class="pagenum">25</span> +transept have already been referred to. The present east end +is divided into three bays by massive buttresses, each of which +contains three lofty lancet windows separated by smaller +buttresses. Over all, and in the gable, is the famous large +rose window. The north and south ends of the transept are +finished with the tall pyramidal pinnacles erected by Wyatt.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" > +<a name="image08" id="image08"></a> +<a href="images/image08.png"><img src="images/image08_th.png" alt="Detail Of Ironwork." title="Detail Of Ironwork." /> +</a><br /> +<span class="caption">Detail Of Ironwork on South Door.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="II_3" id="II_3"></a>The <b>West Front</b> of Durham has, curiously enough, also +lost its original character. The western doorway of the +cathedral is hidden on the exterior by the Galilee or Lady +Chapel, which was added by Pudsey in 1175. Above the +Galilee roof is the large window inserted about the year 1346, +while John Fossor was prior. The pointed arch of this window +has over it, on the exterior, the original great semi-circular arch. +Above this again, and between the two flanking western towers, +is a small gable. The west end of the cathedral, when seen +from the opposite side of the river, is extremely picturesque. +The projecting mass of the Galilee, the western towers, the +foreshortened nave roof, and the majestic central tower behind +and above, form a group of high and rare excellence.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 220px;" > +<a name="image09" id="image09"></a> +<a href="images/image09.png"> +<img src="images/image09_th.png" alt="The Sanctuary Knocker." title="The Sanctuary Knocker." /></a> +<span class="caption">The Sanctuary Knocker.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="II_4" id="II_4"></a> +The <b>North Door</b> is now the principal entrance to the +cathedral. Externally the present porch is the work of Wyatt. +The first porch was Norman, of four orders depth, with detached +shafts in the recesses. Above this was a high-pitched gable +and roof, the front being ornamented with a semi-circular-headed +wall arcading. The inner side of the doorway is of two orders +only, and is probably the only remaining portion of the original. +The outer shaft is left plain, while the inner one, in each case, +is most elaborately carved. The capitals are all carved, and +the arch moulds richly ornamented with chevrons, foliage, and +lozenges, as well as many curious figure subjects. +While examining this doorway, notice should be taken of the ironwork +of the door itself, and particularly of the sanctuary knocker. +In mediæval times all churches afforded sanctuary to wrong-doers, +but at places where the shrines of saints existed the +sanctuary privileges were much greater. Durham being one of +these, there are many curious cases on record of persons claiming +the privilege, and protection from the secular law. The +earliest instance, of which any record has been kept, of +sanctuary being claimed at the shrine of S. Cuthbert is during +the episcopate of Cynewulf, who was bishop from 740 to 748, +and the last recorded was in 1524. Criminals claiming +<a name='Page_26' id='Page_26'></a><span class="pagenum">26</span> +sanctuary were admitted by two janitors, who occupied two +small chambers over the doorway, traces of which may still +be observed. The knocker itself, as may be seen from the +illustration, is a great grotesque head, made of bronze, and +hanging from its grinning mouth is +a ring. Originally, there is no doubt, +the eyes were filled with crystals or +enamel, as small claw-like pieces of +bronze remain by which the filling +was attached. The age of this piece +of work is probably the same as that +of the doorway itself.<a name='Page_27' id='Page_27'></a><span class="pagenum">27</span> +</p> + +<div class="center"> +<a name="image10" id="image10"></a> +<a href="images/image10.png"> +<img src="images/image10_th.png" alt="Ironwork On Doors of Cloisters." title="Ironwork On Doors of Cloisters." /> +</a><br /> +<span class="caption">Ironwork On Doors of Cloisters.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="II_5" id="II_5"></a> +The <b>South Doorways</b>.—There +are two doorways into the south aisle, +one, known as the Monks' Door, +opening from the western portion of +the cloisters and immediately opposite +the north porch just described. On +the cloister side this shows a Norman +arch resting on double shafts, which +are enriched with a lozenge pattern. +<a name='Page_28' id='Page_28'></a><span class="pagenum">28</span> +On the inner or aisle side there are two orders, with +shafts in the recesses, which are also decorated with the +lozenge. The inner arch is carved with chevrons, and +the outer with conventional foliage and medallions. The +capitals are richly carved with foliage and grotesques. On the +abacus and arch of this doorway occurs a leaf pattern strongly +suggesting the Byzantine influence which at one time was found +in Norman decoration. Here again, on the door itself, we have +a fine specimen of very elaborate and characteristic Norman +iron-work. The second, known as the Priors' Door, opens into +the south aisle from the eastern alley of the cloister, is also +Norman. The outer or cloister side is of the time of Bishop +Pudsey, and has an arch of four orders, with three shafts in the +recesses on either side. Its once elaborate sculpture is now +much decayed, not enough remaining to suggest that in its +original state this doorway must have been a noble specimen +of the architectural design of its period. On the inner side it +exhibits work of Carileph's time, with an early arch, cushion +capitals, and shafts.</p> + +<div class="center"> +<a name="image11" id="image11"></a> +<a href="images/image11.png"> +<img src="images/image11_th.png" alt="Ornament On South Doorway." title="Ornament On South Doorway." /> +</a><br /> +<span class="caption">Ornament On South Doorway.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="II_6" id="II_6"></a>The <b>Western Doorway</b>.—The exterior of this great doorway +is now within the Galilee chapel. It was built by Flambard +(1099-1128), and is comparatively plain. On the Galilee side it +consists of an arch of four orders ornamented with chevrons. +The inner face is very similar to the outer, but is shallower, +having only two orders. The shafts and capitals are without +decoration, and the arch ornamented with chevron and a leaf +pattern with medallions carved with grotesque animals. In +<a name='Page_29' id='Page_29'></a><span class="pagenum">29</span> +order to reopen this doorway and make a carriage road up to +it, Wyatt proposed pulling down the Galilee chapel.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="image12" id="image12"></a> +<a href="images/image12.jpg"> +<img src="images/image12_th.jpg" alt="The Cloister." title="The Cloister." /> +</a><br /> +<span class="caption">The Cloister.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="II_7" id="II_7"></a>The <b>Cloister</b> occupies a large open space, bounded on the +south, east, and west by the various monastic buildings, and +on the north by the cathedral itself. The existing cloister was +commenced during the time of Bishop Skirlaw (1388 to 1406), +and was completed by Cardinal Langley (who held the see +from 1406 till 1438), probably in the earlier part of his episcopate. +The contracts (the first dated 1398) for building the +cloister are still preserved in the treasury. We are indebted +to Bishop Skirlaw for their very existence, as it is recorded that +he contributed sums of money for this purpose, both during his +life and by his will. The cloister, as seen to-day, has been +very much altered and restored, and probably the only original +<a name='Page_30' id='Page_30'></a><span class="pagenum">30</span>feature +remaining is the fine oaken ceiling. This is panelled, +and moulded, and decorated with shields, upon which are painted +and gilded various coats of arms. In the centre of the cloister +garth are the remains of what was the monks' lavatory. It was +erected in the years 1432 and 1433, and was of octagonal shape. +Some of the stone for its construction was brought from +Egglestone-on-Tees, on payment of rent to the abbot of that place +to quarry it. It is said to have had twenty-four brass spouts, +seven windows, and in its upper storey a dovecote, the roof of +which was covered with lead.</p> + +<p>There is no doubt that there was a cloister attached to the +monastery in its early days, but of this no trace remains. It is +also probable that one was erected by Bishop Pudsey, though +this also has entirely vanished, unless (as suggested by Canon +Greenwell) some marks of a lean-to roof on the north and east +walls may be traces of its presence. In the western alley of the +cloister is the old treasury, rich in records, and the vestries for +canons, king's scholars, and choristers. The alley opens at the +end into what is now called the crypt <a href="#Page_85">(see p. 85)</a>. This was undoubtedly +the common hall of the monks. It is a spacious stone-vaulted +chamber. The columns are low and massive, with simple +moulded caps, from which the chamfered vaulting ribs diverge. +Over the hall or crypt is the dormitory, which for a long time +formed part of a residence attached to one of the stalls. It is +now, however, used as a library. It occupies the whole of the +western side of the cloister, and is 194 feet long. It was +originally subdivided, by wooden partitions, into separate +sleeping-rooms for each monk. Its massive roof of oak is +worthy of attention, the tree trunks being merely roughly +squared with an axe <a href="#Page_99">(see p. 99)</a>.</p> + +<p>In the south alley was the refectory and the monks' +common dining-hall. The original building is now entirely +altered, though there remains beneath it a very early crypt, +with plain, short square piers, and a simple quadripartite vault +without ribs. Another portion is covered by a wagon-head +vault. Whether the original refectory was of similar architectural +character it is now impossible to say, as, whatever it +may have been, it was removed early in the sixteenth century +and rebuilt, and after the dissolution of the monastery was used +by the Minor Canons of the church as a common hall. It +seems to have fallen into a bad state of repair, and was again<a name='Page_31' id='Page_31'></a><span class="pagenum">31</span> +entirely reconstructed by Dean Sudbury (1661-1684), who was +elected to that office immediately after the Restoration. He +converted it into a library, to which use it is still put. The +account of this building, given in the "Antiquities of Durham," +is of sufficient interest to bear quotation.</p> + +<blockquote> +<p>"In the <i>South</i> Alley of the Cloysters," says our authority, "is +a large Hall, called the Frater-house, finely wainscotted on +the <i>North</i> and <i>South</i> sides; and in the <i>West</i> and +nether Part thereof, is a long Bench of Stone in Mason-work, from the +Cellar Door to the Pantry or Cove Door: Above the Bench +is Wainscot Work two Yards and a Half high, finely carved, +and set with imboss'd Work in Wainscot, and gilded under +the carved Work. Above the Wainscot was a large Picture of +our Saviour Christ, the blessed Virgin <i>Mary</i>, and <i>S. John</i>, in +fine gilt Work, and most excellent Colours; which Pictures +having been washed over with Lime did long appear through it. +This Wainscot had engraven on the Top of it, <i>Thomas Castell</i>, +Prior, Anno Domini, 1518 Mensis Julij. Whence it is manifest +that Prior <i>Castell</i> wainscotted the Frater-house round +about.</p> + +<p>"Within the Frater-house Door, on the Left Hand at entering, +is a strong Almery in the Wall, wherein a great Mazer, +called the Grace Cup, stood, which every day served the +Monks after Grace, to drink out of round the Table; which +cup was finely edged about with Silver, and double Gilt. In +the same place were kept many large and great Mazers of the +same sort.... Every Monk had his Mazer severally by +himself to drink in, and had all other Things that served the +whole Convent, and the Frater-house in their daily Service, +at their Diet, and at their Table.... At these Times (at +meals) the Master observed these wholesom and godly Orders, +for the continual instruction of their Youth in Virtue and +Learning; that is, one of the Novices appointed by the +Master, read some Part of the Old and New Testament in +Latin, during Dinner, having a convenient place at the <i>South</i> +End of the High Table, within a beautiful Glass Window, +encompass'd with Iron, and certain Stone Steps, with Iron +Rails to go up to an Iron Desk, whereon lay the Holy +Bible....</p> + +<p>"This Fabrick retained the Name of the Petty Canons' Hall +till <i>Dr Sudbury</i>, Dean of the Cathedral, generously erected a +<a name='Page_32' id='Page_32'></a><span class="pagenum">32</span> +beautiful Library in its Place; but he not living to finish it +compleatly, did by (a clause) in his Last Will, bind his Heir, +<i>Sir John Sudbury</i>, to the due Execution thereof."</p> +</blockquote> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="image13" id="image13"></a> +<a href="images/image13.jpg"> +<img src="images/image13_th.jpg" alt="S. Cuthbert's Chest." title="S. Cuthbert's Chest." /> +</a><br /> +<span class="caption">S. Cuthbert's Chest in the Castle.</span> +</div> + +<p>The contents of the library are both numerous and interesting. +There are several thousands of volumes, many of them being rare +and valuable. Numerous ancient illuminated MSS., among +which is a copy of the Gospels of S. Mark, S. Luke, and S. +John, written before the year 700; and several books given by +Bishops Carileph and Pudsey. Among the latter is a Bible, in +four volumes, in its original stamped leather binding. A collection +of ancient copes belonging to the cathedral, and the +remains of the robes of S. Cuthbert, and other relics taken +from his coffin when it was exhumed, in 1827, may also be seen +here. Numerous specimens of Roman altars, tablets, and +sculptured stones, from various Roman stations in Durham +and Northumberland, notably from Hexham, are preserved in +this library, which is open to the public on Tuesday and +Friday in each week from eleven to one. The room is finely +proportioned, and has a magnificent open timber roof.<a name='Page_33' id='Page_33'></a><span class="pagenum">33</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="image14" id="image14"></a> +<a href="images/image14.jpg"> +<img src="images/image14_th.jpg" alt="The Chapter-House." title="The Chapter-House." /> +</a><br /> +<span class="caption">The Chapter-House.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="II_8" id="II_8"></a>The <b>Chapter-House</b> opens upon the eastern alley of the +cloister. The present building is a very recent restoration of +the original, which is acknowledged to have been the finest +existing Norman chapter-house remaining in England. It was +erected, or more probably completed, during the time of +Bishop Galfrid Rufus (1133-1140), and was in existence until +1796, during the episcopate of Bishop Barrington. At that +time it was almost totally destroyed, on the advice of Wyatt, +who reported to the chapter that it was in a ruinous state. The +truth of this report is doubtful, but the partial demolition +of the building was ordered in November 1795, and also the +construction of a new room on the site. The work of destruction +was begun by knocking out the keystones of the vaulting and +<a name='Page_34' id='Page_34'></a><span class="pagenum">34</span> +allowing the roof to fall in. The eastern half of the building +was then altogether removed, and the remaining portion enclosed +by a wall. Its interior was faced with lath and plaster, +a plaster ceiling and a boarded floor being added. Fortunately +authentic records of its original appearance, both exterior and +interior, are in existence. They are the drawings made for the +Society of Antiquaries by John Carter in 1795. Its dimensions +were 78 by 35 feet; the east end being apsidal and the +roof a vault of one span. Round the wall of the interior ran +a stone bench raised on two steps, which was surmounted, +except at the west end, by a wall arcade, of round-headed +intersecting arches, similar to that in the aisles of the +cathedral, but with single instead of double shafts. Above +the arcade was a string course carved with zig-zag ornament. +The entrance was from the west end, and the east end was +occupied by two seats, one for the bishop and one for the +prior. In the apse were five three-light windows of the +Decorated period, and above the western door a five-light +Perpendicular window, which contained coloured glass, +illustrating the "Root of Jesse." On either side of this +was a window of two lights, divided by a shaft and enclosed +under one arch, carved with chevron ornament. +There was also a round-headed Norman window in each +of the north and south walls. A doorway in the south wall +led to three chambers, one larger, and two smaller, which +are stated in the "Rites of Durham" to have been used +as a prison for the monks. The chapter-house was used +in early times as a burial-place for the bishops, and many +of their graves with inscriptions were in existence previous +to the demolition of 1796. During excavations in 1874, +the graves of Bishops Flambard, Galfrid Rufus, S. Barbara, +de Insula, and Kellaw were opened, when various rings and +the head of a crozier were discovered and removed to the +dean and chapter library.</p> + +<p>The chapter-house has now been entirely restored as a +memorial to the late Bishop Lightfoot.</p> + +<p>The <b>Northern Alley</b> of the Cloister, running along the +south wall of the church, contains little of interest, except +the two doorways previously described.</p> + +<p>The effect of the cloister as a whole, in its original condition, +with the windows glazed, many containing fine stained glass, +<a name='Page_35' id='Page_35'></a><span class="pagenum">35</span> +the oak roof with its heraldry and colour, and the lavatory +in the centre of the garth, must have been exceptionally fine.</p> + +<p><a name="II_9" id="II_9"></a>A sculptured panel on the north-west turret of the Nine +Altar Chapel is now known as the <b>Dun Cow</b>. The original +sculpture was replaced in the last century by the existing +panel, but the legend connected with it is interesting. After +their flight from Chester-le-Street, the monks, bearing the body +of S. Cuthbert, remained some time at Ripon. While trying +to return to Chester-le-Street, at a place called Wardlaw, the +coffin stuck fast, and remained absolutely fixed. A fast of +three days was proclaimed and kept, when it was revealed to +them that they were to carry their saint to Dunholme. Still +they were in difficulties, not knowing where Dunholme was, +but fortune, or Providence, again favoured them. A woman, +who had lost a cow, passed, calling to a companion to inquire +if she had seen the animal. The reply was that her cow was +in Dunholme; and, to the relief of the monks, they and their +precious charge soon safely arrived there. In grateful +<a name='Page_36' id='Page_36'></a><span class="pagenum">36</span> +commemoration of the incident Flambard erected this monument +of a milkmaid and her cow. (<a href="#Page_9">See p. 9.</a>)</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="image15" id="image15"></a> +<a href="images/image15.jpg"> +<img src="images/image15_th.jpg" alt="The Exterior, from the South-east." title="The Exterior, from the South-east." /> +</a><br /> +<span class="caption">The Exterior, from the South-east.</span> +</div> + +<p>The exterior of Durham Cathedral as a whole may at first +sight be disappointing to the visitor. Seen from a near view +there is a certain flatness of effect and want of light and shade +which is, perhaps, slightly unpleasant. This is, however, largely +attributable to the scaling and scraping process to which the +building was subjected during the last century, when some +inches of the outer surface of the stone, and with it much +architectural detail, were removed. The result is the flatness +previously alluded to, and a general newness of appearance +pervades the structure. Seen, however, from a distance, where +only the finely-grouped and proportioned masses of masonry, +towers, and turrets stand against the sky, the result is magnificent, +giving an impression of grandeur and dignity unsurpassed +by any other English cathedral.</p> +<hr /> + +<p><a name='Page_38' id='Page_38'></a><span class="pagenum">38</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="image16" id="image16"></a> +<a href="images/image16.jpg"> +<img src="images/image16_th.jpg" alt="The Nave, looking West." title="The Nave, looking West." /> +</a><br /> +<span class="caption">The Nave, looking West.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a href="#CONTENTS">Table of<br />Contents</a><br />39</span> +<a name='Page_39' id='Page_39'></a></p> + +<h2> +<a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a> +CHAPTER III<br /> +<span class="subtitle">Description of the Interior</span></h2> + + +<p>If the exterior of Durham is in any way disappointing, the +interior more than compensates for its shortcomings. The +general impression on entering the church is one of simple +dignity and solemnity. The great massiveness of the structure +and absence of elaborate ornament no doubt contribute to +this feeling. The pious builders of old have certainly contrived +to stamp on their work their own feeling of awe in the +presence of the All-Powerful and Eternal God. Whatever has +been lost through vandalism and the restorer, this remains +unaltered. The general design of the church, exclusive of +detail, which, of course, changed and developed with the +progress of Gothic art, has undoubtedly been carried out on +the plan intended by Bishop Carileph, the only important +variation being the addition of the transept at the east end, +known as the Nine Altars Chapel. The original plan consists +of a nave and aisles, transepts with aisles on their eastern side, +a choir also with aisles, and the three apses of the east end, +with a central tower over the junction of transepts, nave, and +choir, and towers flanking the west end.</p> + +<p><a name="III_1" id="III_1"></a>Each bay of the <b>Nave</b> is divided into two sub-bays. The +main bays have massive piers with engaged shafts on the +recessed faces. The bases of these are cruciform in plan, +though the arms of the cross are very short. At the height of +the springing of the arch the shafts are surmounted by plain +cushion capitals. The division into sub-bays is effected by +the introduction midway of a massive round column on a +square base. These columns are ornamented in various ways, +by channels cut on the face. Some take the form of a zig-zag, +some a spiral, others a spiral in two directions, forming a trellis-like +pattern, and others again are reeded vertically. Their +capitals are octagonal cushions. The arches of the sub-bays +<a name='Page_40' id='Page_40'></a><span class="pagenum">40</span> +are recessed square, with the usual Norman roll moulding, +decorated with chevrons, and on the wall face a square billet. +The chevron ornament is absent in the earlier work in the +choir and transepts. The triforium is almost uniform +throughout the whole church. In each sub-bay it consists +of two small arches under one larger one, with the tympanum +solid. Here also the capitals are cushions and perfectly plain.</p> + +<p>Above the triforium is the clerestory, which contains one +light to each sub-bay, and surmounting all is the vaulting, +which springs from the piers and from grotesquely carved +corbels between the triforium arches. The vaulting ribs are +ornamented with chevrons on either side of a bold semi-circular +moulding. So much for the general arrangement of the bays. +Some idea of the massiveness of the structures may be gathered +when it is known that each group of the clustered pillars separating +the bays covers an area of two hundred and twenty-five +square feet at its base, while those of the cylindrical columns of +the sub-bays are twelve feet square, and the columns themselves +have a circumference of over twenty-three feet. There is little +room to doubt that the effect obtained by the old builders of +Durham was intentional. The masterly way in which great +masses of solid masonry, greater than was constructively +necessary, are handled, and the reticence and delicacy of the +ornament combine to prove this. There is in the whole +scheme a delightful union of great power and vigour in the +masses, and of tenderness and loving care in the detail.</p> + +<p><a name="III_2" id="III_2"></a>The <b>Choir</b> is the earliest part of the church. Its two +western bays show Carileph's work, but the eastern piers have +been considerably altered owing to the addition at a later +period of the eastern transept, when Carileph's apses were +taken down. This bay contains some very rich and beautiful +detail. The piers on either side of the choir are decorated +with arcades, the lower stage having six arches, and the upper +three, all richly carved with foliage in the caps and hood +moulds, and with heads and half figures. There is also a +square aumbry on each pier. Above the upper arcade, which +breaks through the level of the triforium string course, which is +also carried round it, there is on each pier a figure of an angel +beneath a canopy. These are the only two figures remaining +of many which formerly added to the beauty of the interior of +the church. The vaulting of the choir is thirteenth-century +work, quadripartite, the ribs decorated with dog-tooth ornament +and square leaves, and has fine bosses at the intersections +of the diagonal ribs. The choir of Durham is especially interesting +to the student of architecture, showing as it does the +Early Norman work of Carileph, combined with the Early +English and Early Decorated work of the newer eastern +portion.<a name='Page_41' id='Page_41'></a><span class="pagenum">41</span> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="image17" id="image17"></a> +<a href="images/image17.jpg"> +<img src="images/image17_th.jpg" alt="One Bay Of The Nave (Measured Drawing)." title="One Bay Of The Nave (Measured Drawing)." /> +</a><br /> +<span class="caption">One Bay Of The Nave (Measured Drawing).</span> +</div> + +<p><a name='Page_43' id='Page_43'></a><span class="pagenum">43</span> +On the south side of the choir stands the monument of +Bishop Hatfield, who directed the see of Durham from 1345 +until 1381. This monument is beneath the Episcopal Throne, +which was erected by Bishop Hatfield himself. It consists of +an altar tomb surmounted by a recumbent effigy of the bishop, +in richly-worked robes, beneath a canopy, richly groined, with +foliated bosses at the intersections of the ribs. On the walls +at the east and west ends may still be seen the remains of +fresco painting, representing in each case two angels. Beneath +the staircase leading up to the throne is a very fine decorated +arcade, containing several shields bearing the bishop's and +other arms. The whole structure was originally richly coloured +and gilded, and remains of this work can still be made out. +It is a noble specimen of the work of its date.</p> + +<p>Immediately opposite the tomb of Bishop Hatfield, on the +north side of the choir, the visitor will notice the recently-erected +memorial to the late Bishop Lightfoot. This is an +altar tomb of black and coloured marble. The sides are ornamented +with panels of Perpendicular tracery containing shields. +Round the upper mouldings runs a Latin inscription in brass. +The whole is surmounted by a recumbent figure of the bishop +in white marble, his hands on his breast, and his feet resting +against three books. Originally designed by Sir Edgar +Boehm, R.A., at his death the monument was completed by +Alfred Gilbert, R.A.</p> + +<p><a name="III_3" id="III_3"></a>The beautiful altar screen is usually known as the +<b>Neville Screen,</b> and was erected about the year 1380, +mainly from moneys supplied by John, Lord Neville of Raby. +It spans the whole of the choir, and is continued along the +sides of the sacrarium, forming sedilia of four seats on either +side. It is pierced by two doors, which lead to the shrine of +S. Cuthbert, immediately behind the screen. Though very +light and graceful in appearance, the screen, as it is at present, +can give the beholder little idea of what its appearance must +<a name='Page_44' id='Page_44'></a><span class="pagenum">44</span> +have been when each of its canopied niches contained a figure +aglow with gold and colour. There were originally 107 of +these statues, the centre one representing Our Lady, supported +on either side by S. Cuthbert and S. Oswald. Unfortunately +none of the figures remain <i>in situ</i>.</p> + +<p>Immediately in front of the steps of the high altar will be +seen the matrix of a large brass. It covers the grave of +Ludovick de Bellomonte, Bishop of Durham from 1318 to +1333. The slab, which is in two pieces, measures fifteen feet +ten inches by nine feet seven inches, and an examination will +show the brass to have been an elaborate and sumptuous +composition. Unfortunately all the metal work has disappeared.</p> + +<p>The <b>Stalls,</b> as they originally existed, were destroyed in +1650 by the Scottish prisoners, who were kept in the cathedral +after the battle of Dunbar. The present stalls we owe to +Bishop Cosin (1660 to 1672), and they are remarkable pieces +of carving for that date. In general character they imitate +Perpendicular work, though the details do not adhere altogether +to that style.</p> + +<p>Before leaving this part of the church a note may be devoted +to the alterations and additions made during the years 1870 to +1876. A new screen between the nave and choir was then +erected; the choir floor relaid with marble mosaic; the stalls +replaced in their old positions, and new portions made to +replace those destroyed in 1846. A new organ, pulpit, and +lectern were also added.</p> + +<p>The new <b>Choir Screen</b> is very much open to criticism. +Though no doubt beautiful in detail, and of excellent workmanship, +its effect, as a whole, is not pleasant, when seen +from the west end silhouetted against the light of the choir. +A screen previously existed in this position erected by Bishop +Cosin. This was removed in 1846, with the idea of improving +the appearance of the church from the west end by +obtaining a "vista" through to the Neville screen and rose +window of the eastern transept. The effect seems, however, +to have been disappointing, hence the erection of the present +screen, which may or may not have improved matters. In +the two western piers of the choir holes may be seen cut in +the stonework. These received the rood-beam from which, +during Lent, the Lenten curtain was suspended.<a name='Page_45' id='Page_45'></a><span class="pagenum">45</span> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="image18" id="image18"></a> +<a href="images/image18.jpg"> +<img src="images/image18_th.jpg" alt="Triforium and Clerestory." title="Triforium and Clerestory." /> +</a><br /> +<span class="caption">Triforium and Clerestory.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name='Page_47' id='Page_47'></a><span class="pagenum">47</span></p> +<div class="center"> +<a name="image19" id="image19"></a> +<a href="images/image19.jpg"> +<img src="images/image19_th.jpg" alt="The Choir, looking West." title="The Choir, looking West." /> +</a><br /><span class="caption">The Choir, looking West.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name='Page_49' id='Page_49'></a><span class="pagenum">49</span> +The <b>North Aisle of the Choir,</b> again, shows the joining +and harmonising of the "new work" of the eastern transept +with the earlier Norman work. Inside the church the most +easterly bay appears to be altogether of Early English date; +but on the exterior it will be seen that the Norman wall runs +right up to the western wall of the eastern transept. The +interior of the bay, however, is enriched with a wall arcade +similar to that in the Nine Altars Chapel, and the arch and +vault are decorated with foliage and dog-tooth ornament.</p> + +<p>Along the side wall of this aisle runs a stone bench bearing +the arms of Bishop Walter de Skirlaw (1388 to 1405), near +which he was buried, but his monument and brass, erected by +himself, have disappeared.</p> + +<p>Slightly westward of the bench is a doorway which at +one time opened into the Sacrist's Exchequer, erected by +Prior Wessington, but it has long ago been destroyed.</p> + +<p>The piers of the west end of this aisle bear marks which +were originally holes cut in the stone. These served to support +a porch, having a rood and altar, which is thus described in the +"Rites of Durham":</p> + +<blockquote> +<p>"Right over the Entrance of this North +Alleye, going to the Songe Scoole (the Exchequer mentioned +above) there was a porch adjoyninge to the quire on the +South, and S. Benedick's altar on the North, the porch having +in it an altar, and the roode or picture of our Saviour, which +altar and roode was much frequented in devotion by Docteur +Swalwell, sometime monk of Durham, the said roode havinge +marveilous sumptuous furniture for festivall dayes belonginge +to it."</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>The <b>South Aisle Of the Choir</b> is similar architecturally +to the north aisle. Here may be seen a doorway, of late +thirteenth-century work, which originally led to the revestry, +now destroyed.</p> + +<p>Here again the eastern piers bear marks left by holes in the +stonework, which originally earned the supports of a screen, in +front of which the Black Rood of Scotland, which was taken +from King David at the battle of Neville's Cross (1346), was +placed. The rood is described as having been brought from +Holyrood by David Bruce, and was made of silver, with effigies +of our Saviour, S. John, and Our Lady, having crowns of gold +on their heads. The Black Rood was restored to its original +possessors at the close of the war.</p> + +<p><a name='Page_50' id='Page_50'></a><span class="pagenum">50</span> +The windows of both the choir aisles originally contained +very fine old stained glass, representing various saints, and +scenes in the life of S. Cuthbert.</p> + +<p><a name="III_4" id="III_4"></a>The <b>Transepts.</b>—Leaving the choir by its western end +the visitor at once enters the transepts. A large portion of +these, including the great piers and arches which carry the +central tower, are, without doubt, of the time of Carileph. The +eastern side of both is certainly his work, while the western is +probably the building which was carried on by the monks in +the interval between Carileph's death, in 1096, and the appointment +of Flambard to the see in 1099. The work on the +eastern sides differs little from that of the choir, while that of +the western sides, being plainer, has been thought by some to +indicate a want of means on the part of the monks, while +carrying on the work in the interval just alluded to. Each +transept consists of two bays, with an aisle on the eastern side, +access to which is gained by the ascent of three steps.</p> + +<p>Each of the three sub-bays nearest the north and south +extremities originally contained an altar, those in the north +transept being dedicated to S. Nicholas and S. Giles, S. +Gregory and S. Benedict. Over the site of the latter may still +be seen remains of fresco painting. The altars in the south +transept were dedicated—one to S. Faith and S. Thomas the +Apostle, one to our Lady of Bolton and the other to our Lady +of Houghall. The north transept is closed by a large window, +which is the work of Prior Fossor, probably about the year +1362. The window is of six lights, and the head contains late +geometrical tracery. The architectural feature of this window, +especially for its date, is the transom which crosses the mullions, +and which is not visible from the exterior. Below the +transom is a second inner set of mullions supporting a small +gallery, by means of which access may be had to the triforium. +In the year 1512 the window was repaired by Prior Castell, +who filled it with stained glass containing large figures, among +others of S. Augustine, S. Ambrose, S. Gregory, and S. Jerome. +From this circumstance the window became known as the +window of the Four Doctors of the Church. Prior Castell also +contrived to introduce a figure of himself kneeling at the feet +of the Virgin. The large window at the end of the south +transept, also named from the glass it contained, the <i>Te Deum</i> +window, is in the Perpendicular style, and is of six lights. It +may possibly have been the work of Prior Wessington, 1416 to +1446. Along the sill of this window also access may be had +to the triforium.<a name='Page_51' id='Page_51'></a><span class="pagenum">51</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="image20" id="image20"></a> +<a href="images/image20.jpg"> +<img src="images/image20_th.jpg" alt="The Transepts, looking North." title="The Transepts, looking North." /> +</a><br /> +<span class="caption">The Transepts, looking North.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name='Page_53' id='Page_53'></a><span class="pagenum">53</span> +Both the north-west and south-west corners of the transepts +contain stairways, opening at their various levels on to the +triforium, clerestory, and the space between the vaulting and +the roof. That in the south transept also gives access to the +central tower and belfry, an ascent of which, if the day be +clear, will repay the visitor for his fatiguing climb of three +hundred and forty steps by the magnificent view spread at +his feet. The transepts were no doubt the earliest part of +the building to be vaulted; that of the northern arm being +plain is probably the earlier, while that of the south arm, +though of similar character, has zig-zag ornaments. Several +of the priors of Durham were buried in the transepts, the first, +Prior Fossor, 1364, and the last, Robert Ebchester, who died +in 1484.</p> + +<p>On the piers of the transepts projecting brackets may be +noticed. These are of Perpendicular date, and originally +carried statues.</p> + +<p>The crossing, or space between the four piers supporting +the central tower, gives us a fine view of the interior of the +lantern.</p> + +<p><a name="III_5" id="III_5"></a>The <b>Tower</b> is carried on four large clustered Norman piers +with semi-circular arches. Over the arches, and seventy-seven +feet above the floor of the church, is the lower stage of the +lantern, round which is a gallery with an open pierced parapet. +It rests on corbels, each alternate one being carved with a +grotesque head. The walls are panelled up to the base of +the great windows,—each panel having two cinquefoiled +arches under a crocketed canopy and final; while between +them are small buttresses, also panelled, and ending in a +finial which reaches the same height as the canopy. Over +the panelling is a string course ornamented with that characteristic +ornament of the Perpendicular period, the Tudor +flower, and above this on each face two tall windows near +together. Each window has two lights, and is divided by a +transom. The roof of the lantern is groined, with fine bosses +at the intersections of the ribs. The whole seen from below +has a very fine effect, and must be very different in appearance +from the original Norman structure. The whole of the +<a name='Page_54' id='Page_54'></a><span class="pagenum">54</span> +lantern was refaced, and the statues which had been removed +from their niches were replaced, some thirty years ago, by the +Dean and Chapter of Durham.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="image21" id="image21"></a> +<a href="images/image21.png"> +<img src="images/image21_th.png" alt="Corbel in Choir." title="Corbel in Choir." /> +</a><br /> +<span class="caption">Corbel in Choir at Junction of Old and New Work.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="III_6" id="III_6"></a>The <b>Norman East End.</b>—The original form of the +Norman east end has long been the subject of discussion and +conjecture. It was practically safe to assume that the choir +ended in an apse, though whether the aisles were also apsidal, +or continued round a great apse as an ambulatory, was a +debatable point. This question has now been finally settled.<a name='Page_55' id='Page_55'></a><span class="pagenum">55</span> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="image22" id="image22"></a> +<a href="images/image22.jpg"> +<img src="images/image22_th.jpg" alt="The Choir, looking East." title="The Choir, looking East." /> +</a><br /> +<span class="caption">The Choir, looking East.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name='Page_57' id='Page_57'></a><span class="pagenum">57</span> +During some operations necessitating the opening of the floor, +in January 1895, certain indications were found which led +the diocesan architect, Mr C.H. Fowler, and Canon Greenwell +to continue the excavation. The result was the discovery +that Carileph's church certainly possessed three apses—a large +one terminating the choir, and smaller ones the aisles. The +apses of the aisles were square externally, and apsidal internally. +The great apse consisted of five bays, one on either side +next to the choir, forming an oblong between the choir and +the springing line of the curve of the apse, over which would +be the great sanctuary arch. The remainder, or apse proper, +was divided into three bays by engaged clustered shafts, similar +to those of the choir and nave. It was surrounded by a wall +arcade of the same character as that of the rest of the church. +The base of one of the shafts of the arcade was found in +position. An extremely interesting point in this discovery is +the fact that the levels are the same as those of the nave and +choir. The foundations are on the rock at the same depth, +and the aisle walls and apse walls are in the same line. The +external square line of the aisle apses is in line with the springing +of the choir apse. The foundations of the apse to the north aisle +have been thoroughly excavated, and there is every reason to +believe that that on the south side of the church entirely corresponds. +The width of the north aisle apse from north to south +is nine feet eight inches. There can be little doubt, judging +from the remainder of Carileph's work, that all three apses +were covered with stone vaults, though of precisely what +character can only be a matter of conjecture. The cracking, +previously spoken of, which led to this part of the church +being taken down and the new eastern transept being erected, +cannot have arisen from any subsidence of the foundations. +It, in all probability, was the result of the thrust of the apse +vaults on to walls which were insufficiently buttressed. The +marks on some of the stones found during this excavation, and +the shape of others, seem to point to the conclusion that here +we have the earliest part of the church, and that Carileph used +up in his foundations much of the stone of Aldhun's White +Church.</p> + +<p>Of the two usual eastern endings to Norman churches—viz. +those with three apses, and those having the aisle carried +round as an ambulatory—the latter is far more common in +<a name='Page_58' id='Page_58'></a><span class="pagenum">58</span> +England, and the former on the Continent. There are two +other notable instances of the three apsidal arrangement in +England: S. Albans, 1077, which is earlier than Durham; +and Peterboro', 1117, which is later than, and was probably +modelled on, Durham. There are many examples of ambulatories—the +White Tower Church (London), Winchester, +Gloucester, Worcester, and Norwich being among them.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/image23.png" alt="Corbel in Choir." title="Corbel in Choir." /> +</div> + +<p>The apses of Durham are of considerable depth from east to +west, the oblong bay previously mentioned, which is fourteen +feet wide in that direction, adding greatly to this effect. The +width of the foundations is fourteen feet, and the width of the +wall has been seven feet. The diameter of the choir apse +from north to south was about thirty-two feet.</p> + +<p>These discoveries are specially interesting, completing as +they do the whole chain, and leading us with very little +imagination to see in its original condition what must have +been, and may even now claim to be, the most noble example +of Norman architecture in our country.</p> + +<p><a name='Page_59' id='Page_59'></a><span class="pagenum">59</span></p> + +<div class="center"> +<a name="image23" id="image23"></a> +<a href="images/image24.jpg"> +<img src="images/image24_th.jpg" alt="Triforium of Nave and Choir." title="Triforium of Nave and Choir." /> +</a><br /> +<span class="caption">Triforium of Nave and Choir, Showing Junction of Old and New Work.</span> +</div> + +<div class="center"> +<a name="image24" id="image24"></a> +<a href="images/image25.png"> +<img src="images/image25_th.png" alt="Plan of Norman East End." title="Plan of Norman East End." /> +</a><br /> +<span class="caption">Plan of Norman East End, With Tomb and Shrine of St. Cuthbert at A.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright"> +<a name="image25" id="image25"></a> +<img src="images/image26.png" alt="Sections of Hood and Arch Mouldings." title="Sections of Hood and Arch Mouldings." /> +</div> + +<p><a name='Page_61' id='Page_61'></a><span class="pagenum">61</span> +<a name="III_7" id="III_7"></a>The <b>Nine Altars Chapel.</b>—Leaving the consideration of +what once occupied the site of the east end of Durham, we +will turn our attention to the beautiful erection which now +stands there, the eastern transept, or, as it is named from the +altars of the saints it once contained beneath its windows, the +Chapel of the Nine Altars. +It is approached from the +aisles by steps, the floor level +being lower than that of the +church proper. It is altogether +a remarkable and interesting +structure. With its lightness +and loftiness contrasting +grandly with the massive +Norman nave and choir, its +clustered columns of polished +marble alternating with stone, +its fine bold sculpture, its +splendid vaulted roof and rich +arcading, it forms a perfect +example of the Early English +style. Though regular and symmetrical in general design, the +detail shows great variety, and even irregularity, a quality so +often present in old work, and so much to its advantage. In +<a name='Page_62' id='Page_62'></a><span class="pagenum">62</span> +general character it may be compared with that at Fountains +Abbey, which was built during the same time.</p> + + +<p>The circumstances leading to its erection have been already +referred to. The Norman apses having +been partly removed, owing to their +dangerous condition, the "New Work," +as it was always called, was commenced +in the year 1242. The eastern wall, +with its rose and nine lancet windows, +is the earliest part of the chapel, the +north and south walls being later. +The joining and blending of the work +with the Norman of Carileph's choir +had evidently been accomplished when +the chapel was almost completed. +The eastern wall is of three bays, each +bay having three lofty lancet windows. +The bays are not of equal width, the +centre one being regulated by the width of the nave of the +church, and narrower than the north and south bays.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 195px;"> +<a name="image26" id="image26"></a> +<a href="./images/image27.png"> +<img src="images/image27_th.png" alt="Capital in the Nine Altars Chapel." title="Capital in the Nine Altars Chapel." /></a> +<span class="caption">Capital: Chapel of the Nine Altars.</span></div> + + +<div class="figright" style="width: 289px;"> +<a href="./images/image28.png"> +<img src="images/image28_th.png" alt="Capital in the Nine Altars Chapel." title="Capital in the Nine Altars Chapel." /> +</a><span class="caption">Capital: Chapel of the Nine Altars.</span></div> + + +<p>A very beautiful arcade +runs completely +round the walls. It is +of trefoil arches, deeply +and richly moulded, +supported on marble +columns carved with +foliage. Over the arches +is a hood mould terminating +with heads. In +the spandrels are a series +of deeply-sunk and +moulded quatrefoils, +two of which contain +sculpture. The bases +of the columns rest on +a plinth. Surmounting +this arcade is a moulded +string, from the level of +which rise the windows, and above the windows another string +course and a second range of windows. In the centre bay, +however, is the large rose window, which is over thirty feet in +diameter.<a name='Page_63' id='Page_63'></a><span class="pagenum">63</span> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="image27" id="image27"></a> +<a href="images/image29.jpg"> +<img src="images/image29_th.jpg" alt="The Nine Altars Chapel." title="The Nine Altars Chapel." /> +</a><br /> +<span class="caption">The Nine Altars Chapel. Looking North, With Tomb of St. Cuthbert on the Left.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name='Page_65' id='Page_65'></a><span class="pagenum">65</span> +The division of the chapel into three bays is effected by +two main vaulting arches, which spring on the western side +from the piers of the east end of the choir, and on the eastern +side from responds of clustered shafts alternately of marble +and stone, banded at intervals and having richly carved +capitals. The arches themselves are deeply moulded and +ornamented with dog-tooth ornament and foliage. The vault +of the central bay has eight ribs—two springing from each +of the clusters just described, and two from each of the choir +piers. The vaulting of the remaining bays is quadripartite, but +has peculiarities which are worthy of notice, arising from +inequality of width. We must not omit to call attention to +the exquisite sculpture of the vaulting. The centre has figures +of the Four Evangelists, while in the north is a beautifully +executed carving of vine and grapes, and in the south, figure +subjects. Among the sculptured heads on the wall arcade at +the south end, at the western side of the two bays into which +the south wall is divided, are two which are portraits of the +men to whom we owe the design and execution of the beautiful +sculpture of this chapel. One is an elderly man, the other +much younger, and both wear linen dust-caps over their heads.</p> + +<p>The nine lancet windows were originally filled with ancient +stained glass, which, as the reader will remember, was removed, +Below each window was an altar. They were dedicated a +follows, beginning at the south end of the chapel:—</p> + +<div class="center"> +<table summary="windows"> +<tr> + <td align="right">1.</td> + <td align="left">S. Andrew and S. Mary Magdalene.</td> + <td align="center" rowspan="3" valign="middle"><span class="xxl">}</span></td> + <td align="center" rowspan="3" valign="middle">South bay.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="right">2.</td> + <td align="left">S. John the Baptist and S. Margaret.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="right">3.</td> + <td align="left">S. Thomas of Canterbury and S. Catherine.</td> +</tr> +<tr><td> </td> </tr> +<tr> + <td align="right">4.</td> + <td align="left">S. Oswald and S. Lawrence.</td> + <td rowspan="3" valign="middle"><span class="xxl">}</span></td> + <td align="center" rowspan="3" valign="middle">Middle bay.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="right">5.</td> + <td align="left">S. Cuthbert and S. Bede.</td> + </tr> +<tr> + <td align="right">6.</td> + <td align="left">S. Martin.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="right">7.</td> + <td align="left">S. Peter and S. Paul.</td> + <td align="center" rowspan="3" valign="middle"><span class="xxl">}</span></td> + <td align="center" rowspan="3" valign="middle">North bay.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="right">8.</td> + <td align="left">S. Aidan and S. Helen.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="right">9.</td> + <td align="left">S. Michael the Archangel.</td> + <td> </td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p>The rose window over the lancets of the middle bay is +Wyatt's "restoration" of the original one. It consists of an +outer circle of twenty-four and an inner circle of twelve +radiating lights, the mullions of which are received on a +foliated circle in the centre.</p> + +<p><a name='Page_66' id='Page_66'></a><span class="pagenum">66</span> +In the north wall of the chapel is a very fine window, known +as the Joseph window, on account of the stained glass it originally +contained, which illustrated the life-history of Joseph. It is a +beautiful example of Early Decorated or geometrical Gothic, +and is of six lights. There is an inner plane of tracery resting +on clustered shafts, which is connected to the mullions of the +window proper by through stones. The window occupies the +complete width of the north end of the chapel. The painted +glass which it once contained is +thus described in the "Rites of +Durham":</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 235px;" > +<a name="image28" id="image28"></a> +<img src="images/image30.png" alt="Capital in Galilee Chapel." title="Capital in Galilee Chapel." /> +</div> + +<div class='blkquot'><p>"In the North Alley of +the said Nine Altars, there is +another goodly faire great glass +window, called Joseph's Window, +the which hath in it all the whole +storye of Joseph, most artificially +wrought in pictures in fine coloured +glass, accordinge as it is sett +forth in the Bible, verye good +and godly to the beholders +thereof."</p></div> + +<p> +This window deserves the attention +of the architectural student, +as it is an exceedingly fine specimen +of the tracery of its date. +</p> + +<p>The south wall of the chapel +contains two windows, each divided +by a central mullion, and having +an inner mullion connected by +through stones. They are widely +splayed inwards, and separated by +a group of vaulting shafts. One or both of these windows +contained stained glass, with the history of the life and +miracles of S. Cuthbert. As seen at present, they contain +tracery of the Perpendicular period, a restoration of +that inserted by Prior Wessington. Each window is of +two lights, crossed by a transom. Entry to the nine altars +was provided for, as well as from the choir and aisles, by +two doors on the western side of its north and south walls. +The northern doorway is now walled up. They enter through +the wall arcade. The writer of the "Rites of Durham" says +the north door was made in order to bring in the body of +Bishop Anthony Bek, who is buried in the chapel. The architectural +features of the doorway would, however, seem to contradict +this theory, and there is little room to doubt that both +north and south doorways formed part of the original design of +the structure.<a name='Page_67' id='Page_67'></a><span class="pagenum">67</span></p> + +<div class="center"> +<a name="image29" id="image29"></a> +<a href="images/image31.jpg"> +<img src="images/image31_th.jpg" alt="The Galilee Chapel." title="The Galilee Chapel." /> +</a><br /> +<span class="caption">The Galilee Chapel.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="III_8" id="III_8"></a><a name='Page_69' id='Page_69'></a><span class="pagenum">69</span> +Before leaving this interesting portion of the building we +must direct our attention to its most important contents, the +<b>Tomb of S. Cuthbert</b>. This, as at present to be seen, is a +great oblong platform, thirty-seven feet long by twenty-three +feet wide, and its upper surface or floor six feet above the floor +of the chapel. Beneath a slab in the centre the bones of +the patron saint rest. The shrine of S. Cuthbert at +one time stood upon this platform, but of that no vestige +remains.</p> + +<p>The floor of the platform is reached by two doors through +the Neville screen in the choir, and by a small stairway from +the south aisle. The wanderings of the monks of Lindisfarne +with the body of their saint, their many difficulties and trials, +and their ultimate settlement at Dunholme or Durham, have +already been described. The shrine was eventually set up in +its present position by Bishop Carileph, in 1104, when he +brought it from the cloister garth from the tomb he had there +set up for its temporary reception, until his church was sufficiently +advanced to permit of its removal thither. It was visited +by large numbers of pilgrims, and many important personages +were among them. Of these may be mentioned William the +Conqueror, Henry III. (1255), Edward II. (1322), and Henry +VI. (1448). The shrine was destroyed soon after the surrender +of the monastery to the Crown, in 1540, when the body was +buried beneath the place where its former receptacle had stood. +There have since this time been traditions that the exact place of +the burial was secret, and known only, according to one account, +to three Benedictine monks, who each handed the secret down +to a successor. The other tradition places the knowledge of +the place of burial in the hands of the Roman Catholic bishops +of the Northern Province. One of these traditions was made +public in the year 1867, and gave the place of interment as +being under the second and third steps leading to the tower +from the south transept. This place was excavated and +examined, but no trace of any burial could be found there. It +<a name='Page_70' id='Page_70'></a><span class="pagenum">70</span> +is to these traditions that Scott refers, in <i>Marmion</i>, in the +following lines:—</p> + +<div class="center"> +<table summary="center poem"> +<tr><td align="left"> +Chester-le-Street, and Ripon saw<br /> +His holy corpse, ere Wardilaw<br /> +Hailed him with joy and fear;<br /> +And after many wanderings past,<br /> +He chose his lordly seat at last,<br /> +Where his cathedral, huge and vast,<br /> +Looks down upon the Wear.<br /> +There deep in Durham's Gothic shade<br /> +His relics are in secret laid;<br /> +But none may know the place,<br /> +Save of his holiest servants three,<br /> +Deep sworn to solemn secrecy,<br /> +Who share that wondrous grace. +</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>In May 1827 the grave in the Nine Altars Chapel was +opened in the presence of two of the church dignitaries and +other persons. Dr Raine, who was also present, has left a +careful account of the discoveries then +made.<a name="FNanchor_C_3" id="FNanchor_C_3"></a><a href='#Footnote_C_3' class="fnanchor">3</a> +The outer coffin, that made in 1542, was first removed, revealing a second and +much decayed coffin and many bones. After the removal +of these relics the lid of a third oak coffin was revealed, in +a very advanced state of decay. This innermost coffin was +covered over its entire surface with carvings of human figures, +the heads surrounded by a nimbus. When this coffin was +removed the skeleton was exposed to view, wrapped in coverings, +the outer of which had been of linen. The robes beneath +were much decayed, and only portions of them could be preserved. +On the breast of the body, among the robes, a comb +was found, answering exactly to that described by Reginald +in 1104. Among the most interesting of the finds were a stole +and maniple.</p> + +<p>The stole is of very early date, and is of needlework in +colours and gold. The centre design is a quatrefoil, inside +which is a lamb with nimbus, and the letters AGNV DI. +On either side are figures of Old Testament prophets, with +their names. Near the ends the embroidery occurs on both +sides of the stole, on the back of one of which among foliage +is the inscription ÆLFFLAED FIERI PRECEPIT, which is +continued on the back of the opposite end, thus—PIO +EPISCOPO FRIDESTANO. The translation of this inscription +<a name='Page_71' id='Page_71'></a><span class="pagenum">71</span> +is to the effect that Aelfled commanded the stole to be +made for the pious Bishop Frithestan. The maniple is of a +similar character, and also bears ornament, figures, and +inscriptions.<a name="FNanchor_D_4" id="FNanchor_D_4"></a><a href='#Footnote_D_4' class="fnanchor">4</a> +Frithestan was made Bishop of Winchester in 905. +Aelfled, who was Queen of Eadward, the son and successor of +Alfred, died in 916. It was therefore during these ten years +that she caused this stole and maniple to be made for the +Bishop Frithestan. It is recorded that the son and successor +of Eadward, by name Athelstan, when on a journey in the +north visited Chester-le-Street and the shrine of S. Cuthbert, +which was then at that place. Among other presents he left +as offerings a stole and maniple, and a girdle and two bracelets +of gold. It is a curious fact that a girdle and two gold bracelets +were found along with the stole and maniple in the grave, +in 1827, and leaves very little doubt that they are the ones +mentioned above. The bones of the saint were quite intact, +and none were missing. They were, with the other relics, +placed in a new coffin, and the grave re-covered. Some portions +of the inner coffin, with the stole, two maniples, the girdle +and bracelets and fragments of the robes are now carefully preserved +in the Dean and Chapter Library. A large gold cross +found among the robes, decorated with garnets, and of workmanship +of the time of S. Cuthbert is also preserved in the +library. These discoveries seem to speak for themselves, and +to leave very little room for doubt that the body exhumed and +examined in 1827 was really that of the patron saint of the +church.</p> + +<p>There were also found in the grave bones of infants, +supposed to be relics of the Holy Innocents, and a skull, most +probably that of S. Oswald, which was known to have been +placed in the coffin of S. Cuthbert.</p> + +<p>Two smooth grooves may be observed on the platform, +which are <i>said</i> to have been worn into the stone by the knees +or feet of generations of pilgrims visiting the shrine.</p> + +<p>There are several other tombs and monuments in this +chapel, chiefly wall tablets of not exceptional interest. At the +north end, however, is a colossal statue of the last of the prince +bishops, Bishop van Mildert, who died in 1836. The +monument is of white marble, the figure seated on a throne +<a name='Page_72' id='Page_72'></a><span class="pagenum">72</span> +and holding a book. It was erected by public subscription, +the sculptor being John Gibson, R.A. Near this monument +is a blue slab covering the remains of Bishop Anthony Bek, +patriarch of Jerusalem, who died in 1310. It was to bring in +the body of this bishop that some writers have thought the +north doorway of the Nine Altars Chapel was constructed. +This is, as we have seen already, extremely improbable.</p> + +<p>The student of architecture will find very much to interest. +him in this Chapel of the Nine Altars. The beautiful sculpture +and variety in the capitals of the shafts of wall arcading, not to +mention the rich carving of the vaulting bosses and capitals of +the vaulting shafts, will well repay his earnest study.</p> + +<div class="center"> +<a href="images/image32.jpg"> +<img src="images/image32_th.jpg" alt="The Galilee Chapel." title="The Galilee Chapel." /> +</a><br /> +<span class="caption">The Galilee Chapel.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="III_9" id="III_9"></a>The <b>Galilee</b> or <b>Lady Chapel</b> is situated at the west +end of the nave. It is well known that for some reason +women were not allowed to enter any church where S. +Cuthbert's shrine stood, nor even any church dedicated to him. +At Lindisfarne a separate church was provided for them, and +at Durham the Galilee Chapel was added for the same purpose. +It was alleged that S. Cuthbert himself had made this rule, +but there is no proof that he ever issued such a command. +<a name='Page_73' id='Page_73'></a><span class="pagenum">73</span> +The Venerable Bede makes no mention of any special feeling +of antipathy to women on the part of the saint. Bede was +contemporary with, and survived S. Cuthbert forty-eight years. +Whatever may have been the origin of the practice, it is +certain that in later times women were jealously excluded from +the churches of S. Cuthbert, and to this circumstance we owe, +in the chapel under our consideration, the most beautiful and +perfect example of Transitional Norman architecture existing +in England.</p> + +<div class="center"> +<a name="image30" id="image30"></a> +<a href="images/image33.jpg"> +<img src="images/image33_th.jpg" alt="Paintings in the Galilee Chapel." title="Paintings in the Galilee Chapel." /> +</a><br /> +<span class="caption">Paintings On the East Wall of the Galilee Chapel.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name='Page_74' id='Page_74'></a><span class="pagenum">74</span> +Let us recall briefly the circumstances attending its erection. +Hugh Pudsey, who occupied the episcopal throne, 1153 to +1195, commenced to build a Lady Chapel at the east end of +the church. The work had not gone far before accidents +happened, and cracks and fissures appeared in the walls, which +the builder thought "gave manifest indication that it was not +acceptable to God and His servant +S. Cuthbert."<a name="FNanchor_E_5" id="FNanchor_E_5"></a><a href='#Footnote_E_5' class="fnanchor">5</a> +The work was therefore abandoned, and another chapel was commenced +at the west end of the church, "into which women +might lawfully enter, so that they who had not bodily access +to the secret things of the holy place, might have some solace +from the contemplation of them" (Geoffrey de Coldingham). +Pudsey caused to be moved here the marble shafts and bases +he had previously brought from "beyond the sea," and +intended to be used in the construction of his chapel at the +east end. Entering the chapel by the steps leading from the +Norman nave, the visitor is at once impressed with the lightness +and delicacy of the work before him, as compared with the +massive grandeur of the Norman cathedral behind. Here we +have, in fact, one of the latest uses of the round arch influenced +by the rapidly developing Early English Gothic. In plan the +chapel consists of a nave with double aisles, which perhaps +might be more properly called five aisles. These are divided +by arcades, each of which is of four bays. These arches and +the columns which support them are the chief beauty and +characteristic of the chapel. The arches are semi-circular, of +one order, with three lines of chevron, one on each face, and +one on the soffit between two roll mouldings. The capitals are +light and graceful and carved with a volute, and the columns +clusters of marble and freestone shafts. The arches, however, +rest on the marble columns, which are, no doubt, those +previously alluded to. The whole seems to have been +coloured in fresco, and remains of this are still to be seen. +The stone shafts, which alternate with those of marble, do not +carry any of the weight of the arch, and are, undoubtedly, an +addition, probably in the time of Cardinal Langley, when they +<a name='Page_75' id='Page_75'></a><span class="pagenum">75</span> +must have been added, with a view to improving the appearance. +The dimensions of the chapel are forty-seven feet from +east to west, and seventy-six feet from north to south. The +existing roof and the three perpendicular windows on the west +end are also additions by Cardinal Langley. On the walls +above what were once the altars of the Virgin and Our Lady +of Pity, remains of fresco painting may be noticed, all that +remains of what has evidently been beautiful work. These +were only brought to light by the removal of successive coats +of whitewash with which they had been covered.</p> + +<div class="center"> +<a name="image31" id="image31"></a> +<a href="images/image34.jpg"> +<img src="images/image34_th.jpg" alt="Detail of the Galilee Chapel." title="Detail of the Galilee Chapel." /> +</a><br /> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Galilee Chapel.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name='Page_77' id='Page_77'></a><span class="pagenum">77</span> +When the Galilee was erected, access from the church was +by the great west door of the cathedral. This was, however, +closed up by Cardinal Langley, who constructed the two +doorways at the end of the aisles by which the chapel is now +entered. Those portions of the Norman wall arcading, which +had to be removed by reason of the breaking through of the +new doorways, were used to fill up the lower part of the great +west door. The latter was again removed in 1846, when the +west doorway was re-opened. Langley's two doorways have +four centred arches enclosed beneath a square label moulding, +with shields bearing the Cardinal's coat-of-arms in each +spandrel. To Langley also may be attributed the five massive +buttresses on the exterior of the western wall of the chapel, +which partly cover the arcading and panelling with which it +was decorated. In adding the new roof Langley raised the +walls above the arches to carry it, giving a somewhat peculiar +effect to the interior. The original roof lines can still be made +out on the west wall. Of the contents of the chapel remaining, +perhaps the most interesting to the visitor is the grave and site +of the shrine of the Venerable Bede. The shrine, like that of +S. Cuthbert's, is gone, and all that remains is the stone slab on +which it once stood, and which bears the inscription (placed +there in 1831):</p> + +<div class="center"> +<table summary="center poem"> +<tr><td align="left">Hac sunt in Fossa<br /> +Bædæ Venerabilis Ossa</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>This remarkable man was contemporary with S. Cuthbert, +whom, as we have said, he survived forty-eight years. His +holiness and piety, together with his great learning, earned for +him the title Venerable, and after his death, in 735, his bones +were enshrined. Of his parentage we know nothing, except +<a name='Page_78' id='Page_78'></a><span class="pagenum">78</span> +that, from his own writings, he was born in the territory of the +Abbey of Wearmouth. At the age of seven he was being +educated in that monastery, and by the time he was ten years +old he moved to the newly-founded Abbey on the Tyne, at +Jarrow. He had able and learned teachers in Benedict Bishop +and Ceolfrid, and appears to have turned his advantages to the +best account. Deacon at nineteen, and priest at twenty-nine +years of age, he led a holy and studious life. After his +ordination he wrote his "Commentaries on the Scriptures," and +writings on all the known sciences—geography, arithmetic, and +astronomy. The greatest work of his life is, however, his +"Ecclesiastical History of the English Nation," to which we +owe all our knowledge of the introduction of Christianity into +Great Britain, and the early history of the English Church. +It is dedicated to King Ceolwulf. His information was +collected from various sources—by letter as to Canterbury, by +communication with bishops and priors as to England +generally, and from personal knowledge and very recent +tradition as to Northumbria. He lived most of his long life +between the monasteries of Monkwearmouth and Jarrow, and +was buried at the latter. In the year 1022 his remains were +secretly removed from Jarrow by Elfrid, who was the most +unscrupulous relic-hunter of that time, who deposited a +portion of them in the same coffin with those of S. Cuthbert. +From here they were removed by Bishop Pudsey, and placed +in the newly-erected Galilee Chapel, where he caused them to +be enclosed in a magnificent shrine. "There, in a silver +casket gilt with gold, hee laid the bones of Venerable Bede, +and erected a costly and magnificent shrine over +it."<a name="FNanchor_F_6" id="FNanchor_F_6"></a><a href='#Footnote_F_6' class="fnanchor">6</a> +When the shrine was destroyed at the suppression of the monastery, +in 1542, the bones were interred beneath the place it occupied, +where they remained undisturbed till the year 1831. In that +year they were exhumed and examined, and, after being +enclosed in a lead-lined coffin, were replaced in the tomb, with +a parchment giving full details of the exhumation. Some +coins and a ring which were found at this time are preserved +in the Dean and Chapter Library. The inscription previously +quoted was then cut on the upper slab of the tomb.</p> + +<p>In the Galilee Chapel is also the tomb of its restorer, +Cardinal Langley, which was erected by himself in front of the +<a name='Page_79' id='Page_79'></a><span class="pagenum">79</span> +principal altar. On its head may be seen three shields bearing +the arms of the cardinal.</p> + +<p>Four of the western windows of the chapel originally contained +beautiful stained glass, a most careful description of +which may be found in the "Rites of Durham."</p> + +<p>Why this chapel has always been known as the "Galilee" +Chapel has been the subject of much discussion and conjecture, +and is still a matter of uncertainty. That it was +erected for a Lady Chapel there can, however, be no doubt. +In the nave of the church, between the piers immediately to +the west of the north and south doorways, the visitor will +notice a dark-coloured marble cross, beyond which no woman +was allowed to pass eastward.</p> + +<p><a name="III_10" id="III_10"></a><b>Monuments in the Nave and Transepts.</b>—The church +of Durham is not rich in tombs and monuments to the dead. +This is to be accounted for partly by the fact that for some +centuries the Bishops of the diocese were interred in the +chapter-house, and even most of these tombs have been lost or +destroyed. Another reason for the scarcity of monuments is +that no layman was allowed to be buried in the church until +1367, when Lord Ralph Neville obtained that distinction for +himself and his wife, the Lady Alice de Neville, who was +buried in 1374. This monument occupies the third sub-bay +from the east, on the south side of the nave. It is an altar +tomb, and though it has suffered severely from mutilation +during the unsettled times of the Reformation, sufficient +remains to enable us to see that it was once a well-designed +and noble monument. Its mouldings are bold, and there are +indications of the places where figures were once attached to +the sides. The recumbent effigies of the noble lord and his +wife, on the top of the tomb, are, however, hopelessly smashed. +It is probable that Lord Ralph Neville obtained this honour +for himself through his services and victory at the Battle of +Neville's Cross, near Durham, in 1346. In the next bay +westward is the tomb of Lord John Neville, who died in +1386. This is also an altar tomb, and has suffered severely, +though it remains in a better state of preservation than +the one just described. Its sides each have six niches, with +elaborately ornamented canopies, and containing figures, while +the ends have three similar niches with figures. The carving +of the canopies is exceedingly beautiful. Between each of the +<a name='Page_80' id='Page_80'></a><span class="pagenum">80</span> +niches are two square panels +with trefoiled heads, each panel +bearing a shield with the arms +of Neville and Percy. Both +above and below the niches +much delicate carving may be +noticed. Surmounting all are +the broken effigies of Lord John +and his wife, who was the +daughter of Lord Henry Percy, +the well-known Hotspur. All +the figures on this tomb, including +the recumbent figures, are +headless, but sufficient remains +to show that they were of great +excellence. Remains of colouring +and gilding can also be +distinguished in places on the +monument.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 180px;" > +<a name="image32" id="image32"></a> +<a href="images/image35.jpg"> +<img src="images/image35_th.jpg" alt="The Font and Cover." title="The Font and Cover." /></a> +<span class="caption">The Font and Cover.</span> +</div> + +<p>Close to this is the slab and +matrix of a brass to Robert +Neville, who was bishop of the +diocese from 1438 to 1457. +The brass has all been removed, +but the matrix shows a dignified +figure of the bishop holding a +crozier and a scroll, while an +inscription formerly existed on a +plate at his feet. Bishop Neville +was known for his generous +qualities, as well as for his high +descent.</p> + +<p>In the western wall, on its +south side, near to the entrance +to the Galilee, is a mural tablet +to a former Prebendary in the +cathedral, and a well-known +antiquary, Sir George Wheler, +who died in the latter part of +the seventeenth century. On +the northern side is a slab to +<a name='Page_81' id='Page_81'></a><span class="pagenum">81</span> +the memory of Captain R.M. Hunter, who was killed while +charging a Sikh battery at Ferozeshah.</p> + +<p>Opposite to the monument of Ralph Neville is a modern +altar tomb to a former headmaster of Durham Grammar +School, the Rev. James Britton, D.D., erected by his pupils. +It is surmounted by a reclining figure of Dr. Britton, in academic +robes, reading a book.</p> + +<p>In the south transept is a fine monument, by Chantrey, to +the memory of Bishop Barrington, who held the see from 1791 +to 1826, dying at the advanced age of 92 years, beloved +by all. He was a great prelate, and used his immense powers +as Prince Palatine with great wisdom. The kneeling figure, with +bowed head, the left hand resting on a book, in an attitude +of deep reverence, is worthy of the name of its sculptor. On +the west wall of the same transept is a tablet to the memory +of the officers, non-commissioned officers, and privates of the +Durham Light Infantry who were slain or died during the +Crimean War.</p> + +<p>Near to this is a recently inserted brass to the memory of the +officers and men of the 2nd Durham Regiment who died in +Egypt and the Soudan.</p> + +<p>In the north transept we may give some attention to a +monument to the Rev. John Carr, a former headmaster of +Durham School. It was erected to his memory by his pupils. +The monument was designed by Rickman, and is in the style +known as Decorated Gothic.</p> + +<p><a name="III_11" id="III_11"></a>The <b>Font</b> stands at the west end of the nave. It is +a comparatively modern work, covered by a tall wooden +canopy which was erected by Bishop Cosin in 1663. The +original Norman font was destroyed by the Scottish prisoners +in 1650, and was replaced by a large marble basin by Bishop +Cosin. This font, in its turn, was removed to Pittington +Church, where it is now in use, its place being filled by the +present modern one. It is designed in the Norman style, +and is square, supported on short columns. The sides are +carved with medallions, copied from illuminated MSS., which +represent scenes from the life of S. Cuthbert. The cover +deserves attention as a specimen of the woodwork of the +seventeenth century, exhibiting a curious and characteristic +mixture of Classic and Gothic forms and details.</p> + +<hr /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a href="#CONTENTS">Table of<br />Contents</a><br />82</span><br /> +<a name='Page_82' id='Page_82'></a></p> +<h2> +<a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a> +CHAPTER IV<br /> +<span class="subtitle">History of the See</span></h2> + +<p>The earlier history of the see of Durham has already been +referred to in order to lead up to the founding of the cathedral. +We have seen how the bishop and monks of Lindisfarne fled +and wandered with the relics of their beloved S. Cuthbert, +eventually settling at Chester-le-Street, until, in the year 990, +Bishop Aldhun, in terror of the Danes, again fled southward to +Ripon. The country at this time was ruled by that weak +monarch, Ethelred the Unready, and the Danes, finding no +determined opposition, continually made piratical incursions, +and eventually, through the treachery of three chieftains, the +Castle of Bamburgh fell into their hands. After an interval of +three or four months peace was made with the invaders, and +Aldhun and his monks ventured to return towards Chester-le-Street. +It was during this journey, at a place called Wredelau, +that the car carrying the saint stuck fast, and the incidents +previously related occurred, which led to the founding of the +Bishopric of Durham.</p> + +<p><b>Aldhun</b> may therefore be called the first Bishop of Durham. +He held the see for twenty-nine years, and died in 1018. +Aldhun it was who built the first or White Church, now +destroyed. It is extremely probable that some of the stones of +this church were used in the foundations of Carileph's choir +and apses.</p> + +<p>After Aldhun's death the see remained vacant for three +years, when he was succeeded by</p> + +<p><b>Edmund</b> (1020-1040). It is said that the monks could +not agree as to who should succeed Aldhun, when one +day Edmund, a presbyter, asked in a joke, "Why not +appoint me?" Being a pious and a faithful man, they +took him at his word, and, after much persuasion and +fasting and prayer, he was consecrated. The choice was a +<a name='Page_83' id='Page_83'></a><span class="pagenum">83</span> +good one. Edmund was an energetic and beloved prelate. +He died at Gloucester in 1041. One of the most important +events during his episcopate was the invasion of Northumbria +by Duncan, King of the Scots. He besieged Durham, but +was beaten off, with great slaughter, and the heads of many of +his men were exposed in the market-place.</p> + +<p><b>Egelric</b> (1042-1056) was the next bishop. He was an +alien, and made himself obnoxious to the clergy and people. +With the intention of rebuilding, he pulled down the wooden +church at Chester-le-Street, which had been the seat of the +bishopric for one hundred and thirteen years. A large quantity +of treasure was found while digging foundations, and this +Egelric appropriated and sent to his monastery at Peterborough, +where he soon followed it. Before resigning the see +of Durham, however, he secured the appointment of his +brother to the bishopric. Some years later William the +Conqueror called him to account for his behaviour in the +matter of the treasure, and threw him into prison at Westminster, +where he died in 1072.</p> + +<p><b>Egelwin</b> (1056-1071) succeeded, through the influence of +his brother. He took part in the rebellion of Eadwin and +Morcar, and, like his predecessor, died in prison. He was the +last of the Saxon bishops.</p> + +<p><b>Walcher</b> (1071-1080). William I. found the Church in +great disorder and made many changes. He filled most of +the sees by the appointment of Norman bishops. To Durham +he elected Walcher. The latter was a man of gentle disposition, +but his chaplain, Leobwin, and Gilbert, a kinsman of his +own, to whom he entrusted most of his affairs, were hated by +the people, over whom they exercised great tyranny. At +length a noble, named Lyulph, ventured to remonstrate with +them, and in their rage they had him assassinated. The +people were furious, and the bishop vainly denied any knowledge +of the deed. He called a meeting at Gateshead. Here +a tremendous tumult arose, the mob crying, "Good rede, +short rede, slay ye the bishop," and eventually setting +fire to the church. The bishop was eventually reduced +to a choice of facing the mob or being burnt in the +church. He chose the former, and, covering his face with +his robe, went out. He was immediately slain on the +threshold, and dreadfully mutilated. His body was removed +<a name='Page_84' id='Page_84'></a><span class="pagenum">84</span> +by the monks to Jarrow, and afterwards to Durham, where +he was buried.</p> + +<p><b>William of S. Carileph</b> (1080-1096) was next +appointed bishop. He was a man of great attainments. To +him we owe the founding of the present cathedral. Carileph +also made an important change, by the removal from Durham +of the secular clergy, and their replacement by Benedictine +monks drawn from Jarrow and Monkwearmouth. The foundations +of the new church were laid on 29th July 1093, the +Bishop and Prior Turgot being present. He did not live to +see it very far advanced, being taken ill at Windsor. He +died about Christmas 1096.</p> + +<p><b>Ranulph Flambard</b> (1099-1128).—The see was kept +vacant for three years by William Rufus, when he appointed +Flambard, a great builder. He built the nave and aisles, the +west doorway and lower part of the western towers, and +vaulted the aisles. He also built Framwellgate Bridge over +the Wear at Durham, erected and endowed S. Giles' Church, +Durham, and was the founder of Norham Castle on the +Tweed.</p> + +<p><b>Galfrid Rufus</b> (1133-1140) was his successor. His +episcopate was much disturbed by wars with the Scots. The +chapter-house was finished during his time of office.</p> + +<p><b>William de S. Barbara</b> (1143-1152) was next +appointed. Extraordinary events marked his election. William +Cumin, chancellor of the Scottish king, attempted to take the +bishopric for himself, and succeeded so far as to capture the +castle with the aid of the Scots. The rightful bishop was not +able to gain possession for sixteen months after his election. +Cumin submitted in 1144.<a name='Page_85' id='Page_85'></a><span class="pagenum">85</span> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="image33" id="image33"></a> +<a href="images/image36.jpg"> +<img src="images/image36_th.jpg" alt="The Crypt." title="The Crypt." /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">The Crypt.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Hugh Pudsey</b> (1153-1195) now succeeded to the +bishopric at the age of twenty-five. He bought for life the +earldom of Northumberland and the manor of Sadberg. In +1187 the news of the capture of Jerusalem by the Saracens +spread consternation in the Church, and Pudsey prepared to +accompany King Henry to the East. He fitted out ships and +galleys in a most sumptuous manner, his own having a seat for +himself of solid silver. Neither he nor King Henry embarked +in the crusade, however. The king died, and Richard his +son undertook the expedition, leaving Bishop Pudsey and +Longchamp, Bishop of Ely, as justiciaries for the northern and +<a name='Page_87' id='Page_87'></a><span class="pagenum">87</span> +southern portions of the kingdom respectively. These two +quarrelled, and Pudsey was decoyed to London by Longchamp, +and committed to the Tower. He soon obtained his +release, but was compelled to resign the earldom of Northumberland. +In 1195 he undertook a journey to London +to see the king, and endeavour to obtain restitution of his +honours and possessions, but was taken ill, and died on the +way, at Howden. His work in the cathedral we have seen. +He also built the great hall of the castle, most of the beautiful +Church of S. Cuthbert at Darlington, and the Elvet Bridge over +the Wear at Durham, and founded the hospital at Sherburn, +near Durham. Darlington Church, which would well repay a +visit, is a fine specimen of Early Pointed architecture, second +only to the Galilee of Durham, the two showing in a wonderful +manner the rapid development of the change which was taking +place in architectural style during Pudsey's time.</p> + +<p><b>Philip de Pictavia</b> (1197-1208), elected at the urgent +request of the king. He was continually at loggerheads with +his clergy. He supported King John against the Pope, and +was for this excommunicated; died in 1208, and was buried +in unconsecrated ground. This bishop is said to have had the +permission of the king to coin money at Durham.</p> + +<p><b>Richard de Marisco</b> (1217-1226) was elected after an +interval of nearly ten years. The feud with the monks continued +during his episcopate, and the bishop swore the Church +of Durham should have no peace while he lived; threatened +that if a monk should show himself beyond his cloister he +should lose his head; and once, when his servants had beaten +a monk, and the man complained, he replied that it was a +pity they did not kill him. He died at Peterborough in +1226.</p> + +<p><b>Richard le Poore</b> (1229-1237), who was the next bishop, +elected after the see had been vacant two years and four +months, was translated from Salisbury, where he had commenced +building the new cathedral. He ended the dispute +between the monks and the Bishop of Durham by an agreement +known as "Le Convenit."</p> + +<p><b>Nicholas de Farnham</b> (1241-1248) became bishop after +a three years' dispute with the king. He resigned in 1248.</p> + +<p><b>Walter de Kirkham</b> (1249-1260), Dean of York, was +next elected.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width:164px;" > +<a name="image34" id="image34"></a> +<a href="images/image37.png"> +<img src="images/image37_th.png" alt="Stone Coffin Lid." title="Stone Coffin Lid." /></a> +<span class="caption">Stone Coffin Lid.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name='Page_88' id='Page_88'></a><span class="pagenum">88</span> +<b>Robert de Stitchill</b> (1261-1274), Prior of Finchale, succeeded +him. Dissensions again arose between the bishop and +the monks. He died on his return from France, where he +had attended a council at Lyons. +He was buried in a monastery in +France, but his heart was brought to +Durham, and buried in the chapter-house.</p> + +<p><b>Robert de Insula</b> (1274-1283), +a native of Holy Island, as his name +suggests, was then elected bishop. +His tenure of office was peaceful.</p> + + +<p><b>Anthony Bek</b> (1283-1310). The +next bishop was of noble birth, the +son of Walter Bek, Baron of Eresby, +in Lincolnshire. He took part with +Edward I. in his expedition to Scotland, +and, being very wealthy, was of +great assistance to the king. His +following consisted of twenty-six +standard bearers, one hundred and +forty knights, and an army of five +thousand foot and five hundred horse. +He was employed by the king, with +success, in many important State +matters. In the year 1300 trouble +again arose with the monks. Some +of them being dissatisfied with the +Prior Hotoun, the bishop proposed +to hold a visitation. The prior refusing +to admit him unless he came +unattended, the bishop deposed and +excommunicated him. The convent +took sides, some with the bishop and +some with the prior, and it was only +on the interference of the king that a partial peace was restored. +The quarrel soon reopened. Some men made a complaint +against the bishop. He had compelled them to take arms under +him in the Scottish war, and had imprisoned some who had +returned without leave. The barons upheld the men, and it +led to them taking sides with Prior Hotoun in his dispute. +<a name='Page_89' id='Page_89'></a><span class="pagenum">89</span> +The bishop, calling the monks together, ordered them to elect +a new prior, which they promptly refused to do. On this the +bishop appointed Henry de Luceby of Holy Island to be prior +of Durham, and brought men from Weardale and Tynedale to +expel the old prior. They laid siege to the convent, and for +three days Prior Hotoun and forty-six monks were shut up +with only six loaves and sixteen herrings. They continued +the services however. On the third day a Tynedale man was +sent to pull the prior out of his stall, but was so awed by his +venerable appearance that he dared not touch him. A monk +on the bishop's side, however, did the work. Prior Luceby +was installed, and Prior Richard seized and imprisoned. He +soon escaped, however, and carried his complaint before +Parliament, and afterwards to the Pope, Boniface VIII. The +Pope decided in his favour, and Hotoun returned to Durham, +and Luceby and his friends were obliged to go, though they +tried, when doing so, to carry off some silver plate and other +valuables. Bek continued in great splendour until his death +in 1310. When he died he was king of the Isle of Man, +Patriarch of Jerusalem, Bishop of Durham, and Prince +Palatine.</p> + +<p><b>Richard de Kellaw</b> (1311-1316), formerly a monk of +Durham, succeeded Bek. He was a good and learned man, +and lived in harmony with the monks.</p> + +<p><b>Louis de Beaumont</b> (1318-1333) was next appointed +bishop, after great competition and intrigue. He was chosen +in opposition to the wishes of the chapter, who had elected +Stamford, Prior of Finchale, to succeed Kellaw. On his way +to Durham for consecration and enthronement, accompanied +by two cardinals and a large retinue, he was waylaid at +Rushyford by a band of ruffians under Gilbert Middleton. +They plundered the cardinals, but carried the bishop a +prisoner to Mitford Castle. His release was only secured +on payment by the monastery of a heavy ransom. He was an +ignorant man, and so innocent of Latin that he could not read +his profession of obedience, being continually prompted. +Later, at an ordination, he stumbled over the words "<i>in +œnigmate</i>" and cried in French, "<i>Par Seynt Lewis, il ne fuit +pas curtays qui cest parole ici escrit.</i>" "By Saint Lewis he was +no gentleman who wrote this word."</p> + +<p><b>Richard de Bury</b> (1333-1345), who succeeded, was a +<a name='Page_90' id='Page_90'></a><span class="pagenum">90</span> +great scholar, tutor to Edward III., and author of "Philobiblon," +a book still extant. He was a good man, and very +kind to the poor.</p> + +<p><b>Thomas de Hatfield</b> (1345-1381) was, like Bishop Bek, +a warrior ecclesiastic. Soon after his election he led eighty +archers to the siege of Calais. His episcopate was notable for +the wars with the Scots, and the great victory obtained over +them, with the capture of King David and many nobles, at +Neville's Cross, near Durham. Fifteen thousand Scots were +slain. The victory was attributed to the presence of the +sacred banner of S. Cuthbert, which Prior John Fossor took to +a place near the battlefield, kneeling in prayer the while for +success. A hymn of thanksgiving was appointed to be sung +on the top of the cathedral tower on each anniversary of the +battle. This custom is still carried out, though the day has +been changed to the twenty-ninth of May. Hatfield was a +liberal supporter of Durham College at Oxford. He erected +his own tomb in the choir of the cathedral, in which he was +afterwards buried.</p> + +<p><b>John Fordham</b> (1381-1388), secretary to Richard II., and +Canon of York, was next elected. Suspected of giving bad +advice to the king, he was compelled to resign, but was given +the inferior bishopric of Ely, where he lived to extreme old age, +dying in 1425.</p> + +<p><b>Walter de Skirlaw</b> (1388-1405), translated from Bath +and Wells, was a munificent prelate. He built bridges at +Shincliffe, Bishop Auckland, and Yarm; a refuge tower, a +beautiful chapter-house (now in ruins) at Howden; and was a +large contributor to the expense of building the central tower +of York Cathedral. His work in the building of the cloisters +of Durham has already been referred to.</p> + +<p><b>Thomas Langley</b> (1406-1437) succeeded. He was +Chancellor of England, Dean of York, and in 1411 was made +a cardinal. He occupied the see during part of the reign of +Henry IV., the whole of that of Henry V., and fifteen years of +that of Henry VI. He founded two schools on the Palace +Green at Durham, and in his will left collections of books +to many colleges.</p> + +<p><b>Robert Neville</b> (1437-1457), son of the Earl of Westmoreland +and his wife Joan, who was a daughter of John +of Gaunt. He was therefore uncle of the Earl of Warwick, +<a name='Page_91' id='Page_91'></a><span class="pagenum">91</span> +the "king-maker" of Richard III. and of Edward IV. He +had a peaceful episcopate of nineteen years, and was buried in +the cathedral, in the south aisle near his ancestors.</p> + +<p><b>Laurance Booth</b> (1457-1476), Canon of York and +Lichfield, Archdeacon of Richmond, and Dean of S. Paul's, +was the next bishop. He was a supporter of the House of +Lancaster. He was translated to the archbishopric of York +in 1476, the first of the bishops of Durham who was raised to +that dignity.</p> + +<p><b>William Dudley</b> (1476-1483), Dean of Windsor, succeeded +him.</p> + +<p><b>John Sherwood</b> (1483-1494), who was appointed next, +was a learned man, and made a large collection of Greek +manuscripts. He died in Rome in 1494.</p> + +<p><b>Richard Fox</b> (1494-1501) was translated from Bath and +Wells after the see had remained vacant for eleven months. +Nothing of particular moment occurred during his episcopate. +He was an early patron and helper of Wolsey, and lived to +regret having assisted him. He made alterations in the castle +at Durham. He was translated to the see of Winchester in +1501, and died in 1528.</p> + +<p><b>William Sinews</b> or <b>Sever</b> (1502-1505), translated from +Carlisle. He is said to have been the son of a sieve-maker at +Shincliffe, near Durham.</p> + +<p><b>Christopher Bainbridge</b> (1507-1508), Dean of York, +was next elected, and after an episcopate of one year was +translated to York. In 1511 he was sent to Rome as +ambassador by Henry VIII., and while there was created +cardinal. He died in Rome, poisoned by a servant whom +he had struck in anger.</p> + +<p><b>Thomas Ruthall</b> (1509-1522), Dean of Salisbury, was +the next bishop. He was immensely wealthy, and his love +of money brought him into disgrace. King Henry commanded +him to draw up an account of the lands and +revenues of the Crown. The bishop, in error, sent to the +king the wrong book, in which was set forth an account of +his own possessions. The king, though tampered with by +Wolsey, made no use of the knowledge thus obtained. But +the affair rankled in the mind of the bishop, and is said to +have hastened his death.</p> + +<p><b>Thomas Wolsey</b> (1522-1528) was appointed to succeed +<a name='Page_92' id='Page_92'></a><span class="pagenum">92</span> +him. The famous cardinal held the see for six years, as +well as that of York. During the whole of his episcopate +he never visited Durham, and in 1528 he resigned it for +the see of Winchester.</p> + +<p><b>Cuthbert Tunstall</b> (1530-1559) was translated from +London by a Papal Bull, the last used for this purpose. +Tunstall was a remarkable man, and he occupied the see +during an important period of Church history, the Reformation, +all the stages of which he saw. During his episcopacy, +the great privileges of the bishops of Durham as Princes +Palatine were very much curtailed. In 1526, while Tunstall +was Bishop of London, the English translation of the New +Testament by Tyndall appeared, causing great alarm among +the clergy. The part played by Tunstall in relation to this +is well known. He opposed the supremacy of King Henry +as head of the Church, but eventually gave up the struggle +and preached in its favour. The monastery of Durham was +suppressed in 1540, and a dean and twelve canons appointed. +Soon after the accession of Edward VI., Bishop Tunstall +was committed to the Tower and deprived of his see, on +a charge of having encouraged rebellion in the north. On +the accession of Mary to the throne he was released and +restored, but there would seem to be no grounds for supposing +that he took any part in the cruelties practised during +her reign. When Elizabeth became queen, Tunstall refused +to take the oath, and was again deprived of his see, and, +being now an old man, was committed to the custody of +his friend Archbishop Parker (Canterbury), with whom he +lived till his death in 1559. He was a scholarly prelate, +of a kindly nature, and was held in universal esteem.</p> + +<p><b>James Pilkington</b> (1560-1575) left the buildings of the +see in a ruinous condition.</p> + +<p><b>Richard Barnes</b> (1575-1587), translated from Carlisle. +He is said to have been removed to Durham in order to +spy upon the correspondence and messengers of the unfortunate +Mary Queen of Scots.</p> + +<p><b>Matthew Hutton</b> (1589-1594), Dean of York, was the +next bishop. A man of great learning, and considered one +of the best preachers of his day. He was translated to York +in 1594.</p> + +<p><b>Tobias Matthew</b> (1595-1606), Dean of Durham, was his +<a name='Page_93' id='Page_93'></a><span class="pagenum">93</span> +successor. He was also a great preacher, and was celebrated +for his wit. He was translated to York.</p> + +<p><b>William James</b> (1606-1617), Dean of Durham, was next +elected.</p> + +<p><b>Richard Neile</b> (1617-1627) was translated from Lincoln. +He was remarkable as being the only bishop who held six +sees successively—viz. 1608, Rochester; 1610, Lichfield; +1613, Lincoln; 1617, Durham; 1627, Winchester; and 1631, +Archbishop of York. He did much to help forward men +of learning and ability by giving them preferment in his see, +and reserving apartments for their use in Durham House, +London, which became known as Durham College. He +spent large sums of money on repairs to the buildings at +Durham.</p> + +<p><b>George Monteigne</b> (1628), Bishop of London, only +held the see of Durham for three months, when he was +translated to York.</p> + +<p><b>John Howson</b> (1628-1631), Bishop of Oxford, held the +see for two years, and died in 1631.</p> + +<p><b>Thomas Morton</b> (1632-1659), translated from Lichfield. +The North of England was much disturbed in 1640 by the +invasion of the Scots, and Bishop Morton fled—first to +Stockton, afterwards to York—and never returned to his +diocese. The successful Scots levied heavy taxes on the +district for the maintenance of their troops, as much as £850 a +day being demanded. In 1646, Episcopacy was abolished, and +the estates of the bishops ordered to be sold. Thus we find +at Durham the castle sold to the Mayor of London for £1267 +and Durham, Borough, and Framwellgate disposed of to +the Corporation for £200. The bishop lived a life of suffering +in London, cared for by his friends, till his death in +1659, at the age of ninety-four. During his episcopate, in +1656, Oliver Cromwell arranged for the founding of a college +in Durham, but his death prevented him carrying out his +scheme. His son, however, did so, and it flourished until +the Restoration, which, by giving back property to its rightful +owners, put an end to its existence.</p> + +<p><b>John Cosin</b> (1660-1671), Canon of Durham, was the first +bishop after the Restoration. He was a most munificent +prelate, leaving many charitable bequests. He spent large +sums in the restoration of the cathedral and castle and the +<a name='Page_94' id='Page_94'></a><span class="pagenum">94</span> +palace at Bishop Auckland. He built a hospital for eight +poor people, and erected a library on the palace green.</p> + +<p><b>Nathaniel Crewe</b> (1642-1722), translated from Oxford. +He was a strong supporter of King James II., but afterwards +took the oath of allegiance to William and Mary. He was +noted for his charity and munificence, and left large sums to +the poor, and in scholarships tenable by natives of Durham.</p> + +<p><b>William Talbot</b> (1722-1730), translated from Salisbury.</p> + +<p><b>Edward Chandler</b> (1730-1750), Bishop of Lichfield, was +next elected. He gave £2000 to be laid out for the benefit +of the widows of clergymen of his diocese.</p> + +<p><b>Joseph Butler</b> (1750-1752) was translated from Bristol. +He is best known as the author of "The Analogy of Religion, +Natural and Revealed."</p> + +<p><b>Richard Trevor</b> (1752-1771), Bishop of S. David's, a +learned, pious, and unostentatious man. He left £200 in his +will to the poor of Durham and Auckland.</p> + +<p><b>John Egerton</b> (1771-1787), Bishop of Lichfield, was next +elected. He married the daughter of Henry, Duke of Kent, +and his eldest son afterwards became Earl of Bridgewater.</p> + +<p><b>Thomas Thurlow</b> (1787-1791) was translated to Durham +from Lincoln. He was brother of the Lord Chancellor.</p> + +<p><b>Shute Barrington</b> (1791-1826) was the next bishop, +having previously held the sees of Llandaff and Salisbury. A +most beneficent prelate; his charities, especially those for the +founding of schools and augmentation of poor livings, were +magnificent. During his episcopacy, external repairs to the +cathedral having become absolutely necessary, James Wyatt, +who had already done such mischief at Salisbury, was given +charge of the work. Then it was that the paring process, +spoken of previously, was completed, the chapter-house destroyed, +and the Galilee Chapel only saved from destruction +by the intervention of Dean Cornwallis. Wyatt's other wild +schemes, to extend the choir eastwards, to the utter ruin of the +Nine Altar Chapel, to remove the beautiful Neville screen, and +surmount the central tower of the church by a spire, were +happily checked in time, or there is no saying to what +extent the building would have been mutilated. Bishop +Barrington died in London, in his ninety-third year.</p> + +<p><b>William Van Mildert</b> (1826-1836), Bishop of Llandaff, +succeeded to the see. During his episcopate, many important +<a name='Page_95' id='Page_95'></a><span class="pagenum">95</span> +changes were made. The Ecclesiastical Commission, appointed +in 1833, to consider in what manner the funds of the +Church might be made more available for the purposes for +which they were intended, decided to give future bishops a +fixed yearly payment, and to reduce the number of canons +from twelve to six. On the appointment of a new bishop, +the Palatinate was to be annexed by the State. Thus Van +Mildert was the last Count Palatine. Before these changes +came into force, however, the bishop and the dean and +chapter founded and endowed the university out of the +revenues of the see, for the use of which the bishop gave up +the castle. Bishop Van Mildert was a man of great charity, +and though his income was immense, he died comparatively +poor. He died in February 1836, and was interred in the +chapel of the Nine Altars.</p> + +<p><b>Edward Maltby</b> (1836-1856), his successor, was translated +from Chichester, and held the see for twenty years, when, +owing to advanced age and increasing infirmity, he resigned +in 1856.</p> + +<p><b>Charles Thomas Longley</b> (1856-1860), first Bishop of +Ripon, was next elected. He was a popular and much-beloved +prelate. In 1860 he was created Archbishop of +York, and two years later was translated to Canterbury.</p> + +<p><b>Hon. Henry Montague Villiers</b> (1860-1861) was translated +from Carlisle. A fine preacher, his episcopate was all too +short. He died, after much suffering, in 1861.</p> + +<p><b>Charles Baring</b> (1861-1878), Bishop of Gloucester and +Bristol, succeeded him. A man of unbounded charity and +goodness, he won the affection of all who knew him personally. +He was compelled, through illness, to resign the see in 1878, +and did not long survive his retirement.</p> + +<p><b>Joseph Barber Lightfoot</b> (1879-1889) was then elected +to the see. A man of scholarly attainments, he is still too +well known and remembered to need any detailed note. He +came to Durham pledged to accomplish as soon as possible +the division of the diocese, which promise he carried out by +restoring the suppressed see of Hexham to Newcastle-on-Tyne. +A fine tomb to the memory of Dr Lightfoot has been placed +on the north side of the choir of the cathedral, and as a +memorial of his episcopate the mutilated chapter-house has +been restored.</p> + +<p><a name='Page_96' id='Page_96'></a><span class="pagenum">96</span> +The present bishop is the <b>Right Rev. Brooke Foss +Westcott, D.D.</b></p> + +<hr class="short" /> + +<p>In this place may conveniently be given the rough draft of +the settlement of the see by King Henry VIII. at the Reformation. +Although departed from in many instances, it throws +a curious light on the king's intentions to keep up some +semblance of a conventual institution with an active educational +purpose.</p> + +<div class="center"> +<table summary="Center table" width="100%"> +<tr><td colspan="4" align="center">DURESME.</td></tr> +<tr> + <td> + <table summary="inset" style="margin-left: 0em;"> + <tr> + <td align="left" valign="top">[Fol. 30.]</td> + <td align="left">Duresme<br />cum Cellis.</td> + <td align="left"><span class="xxl">}</span></td></tr></table> + </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">First a provoste of the College</td> + <td align="right">cc li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item xii prebendaryes and the moste parte of theym preachers vi + of them 1 markes and vi of them + xxvi li. xiii s. iiii d. by the yere</td> + <td align="right">ccclx li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item a Reader of humanytie in greke by the yere</td> + <td align="right">xx li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item a Reader of dyvynytie in hebrewe by the yere</td> + <td align="right">xx li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item a Reader bothe of devynytie and humanytie by the yere</td> + <td align="right">xx li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item a Reader of physyke</td> + <td align="right">xx li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item lx scollers to be tawghte both gramer and logyke in hebrewe + greke and lattyn every of them by the yere iii li. vi s. viii d.</td> + <td align="right">cc li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item xx studyentes in dyvynytie to be founde x att Oxenford, and + x att Cambryge every of them by the yere x li. </td> + <td align="right">cc li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item a Scolmaster for the same Scollers</td> + <td align="right">xx li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item an ussher</td> + <td align="right">x li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item viii petycanons to synge and serve in the quere every of them + x li. by the yere</td> + <td align="right">xxiiii li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item x laye men to synge and serve also in the quyre every of + them by yere vi li. xiii s. iiii d.</td> + <td align="right">lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item x Chorysters every of + them by the yere fyve marks</td> + <td align="right">xxxiii li. vi s. viii d.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item a master of the Chylderne</td> + <td align="right">x li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item a Gospeller</td> + <td align="right">vi li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item a pysteller</td> + <td align="right">v li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item ii sextens</td> + <td align="right">vi li. xiii s. iiii d.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item xii poore men beynge olde servynge men decayed by warres + or in the Kyng's servyce every of + them vi li. xiii s. iiii d. by yere</td> + <td align="right">lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="4" class="tdfol">[Fol. 30. dors.]</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item yearly to be distrybuted in almes to poore house-holders</td> + <td align="right">lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item for yearly reparacions</td> + <td align="right">lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item to be employed yerely in makynge and mendynge of + hyghewayes</td> + <td align="right">lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item to a Steward of the Landes</td> + <td align="right">vi li. xiii s. iiii d.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item to an Audytor</td> + <td align="right">x li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item to ii porters to kepe the gates and shave the Company </td> + <td align="right">x li.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p><a name='Page_97' id='Page_97'></a><span class="pagenum">97</span></p> +<table summary="Center table" width="100%"> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item to one cheyf Butler for hys wages and dyete</td> + <td align="right">iiii li. xiiis. iiiid.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item to an under Butler for hys wages and dyete</td> + <td align="right">iii li. vis. viiid.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item one Cheyf Cooke for hys wages and dyete</td> + <td align="right">iiii li. xiiis. iiiid.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item oone Under Coke for hys wages and dyete </td> + <td align="right">iii li. vi s. viii d.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item for the provostes expences in receyvyng the Rentes and + surveyeng the landes by yere</td> + <td align="right">x li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Item to a Cato<sup>r</sup> to bye there dyetes for his wages and dyete and + makynge hys bockes of reconyngs by the yere</td> + <td align="right">vi li. xiiis. iiiid.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="4" class="tdfol">[Fol. 31.]</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3" valign="bottom">Duresme</td> + <td align="right"> + <table summary="inset"> + <tr><td valign="bottom" align="right">M<sup>l</sup>DC</td> + <td valign="bottom" align="center">xx<br />iiii</td> + <td valign="bottom" align="left"> viii<sup>li</sup> xi<sup>s</sup> viii<sup>d</sup>.</td></tr> + </table> + </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3" valign="bottom">Porciones deductæ</td> + <td align="right"> + <table summary="inset"> + <tr><td valign="bottom" align="right">M<sup>l</sup>DC</td> + <td valign="bottom" align="center">xx<br />iiii</td> + <td valign="bottom" align="left"> xiii<sup>li</sup> xiii<sup>s</sup> iiii<sup>d</sup>.</td></tr> + </table> + </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="2">Reman'</td> + <td align="right" colspan="2">lxxxxiiii<sup>li</sup> xviii<sup>s</sup> iii<sup>d</sup>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdfol" colspan="4">[Fol. 32.]</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="4" align="left">A proporcion for mayntenance of Hospitalite Lernynge Dyvine + Service Almes and other necessarie Expences in the Cathedrall + Churche of Duresme to be erectyd foundyd and establysshed + by the King's Majesties goodnes.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="4" align="center"> + <table summary="inset"> + <tr><td align="right" valign="bottom">Sm<sup>a</sup> M<sup>l</sup>DC</td> + <td align="center" valign="bottom">xx<br />iiii</td> + <td align="left" valign="bottom"> viii<sup>li</sup> xi s. viii d.</td></tr> + </table> + </td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table summary="next section" width="100%" cellpadding="3"> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr> + <td align="center" colspan="2">HOSPITALITE.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="center" colspan="2"> + The dean cclxiii li. x s.—Prebend' xxxii li. vi s. viii d.<br /> + Corpus of the deane and prebendaries.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Fyrste for the Deane for the corpus of his promotion which he shall + certaynlye receyve and accordinge wherunto he shall paye the + tenthes and fyrst frutes</td> + <td align="right" valign="bottom">xl li.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> + <td align="left">Item to twelve prebendaries iche of them for the corpus of his + promotion viii<sup>li</sup> which he shall receyve certaynly by yere and + accordinge whereunto he shall paye the tenthes and fyrste fruytes</td> + <td align="right" valign="bottom"> + <table summary="inset" width="100%"><tr> + <td align="center" valign="bottom">xx<br />iiii</td> + <td align="right" valign="bottom"> xvi li.</td></tr> + </table> + </td> +</tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr> + <td align="center" colspan="2">DISTRIBUTIONS.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item to the deane for every daie of his residence to be payd by waie + of Cotidiane distribucion out of the common possession xii s. v d. + to be paid out of the same common possession which amountyth + in the yere</td> + <td align="right" valign="bottom">ccxxvi li. xii s. i d.</td> + <td rowspan="2">D<br/>C<br />x<br />x<br />x<br /> <br />l<br />i.<br /> <br />x<br />i<br />i<br />i<br /> <br />s.<br /> <br />i<br /> <br />d.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item to eche prebendarye for every daie of his residence to be payd + by waie of Cotidiane distribucion out of the common possession + xvi<sup>d</sup> ob. over and besydes iiii s. ix d. ob. to be payd to every + of the prebendaries out of the same common possession which + in the hole yere amountith to the twelve said prebendaries to + the Summe</td> + <td align="right" valign="bottom">ccciiii li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2" class="tdfol">[Fol. 32 dors.]</td> +</tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr> + <td align="center" colspan="2">LEARNINGE.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item a reader in divinite for his yerely stypende to be paid of + the common possession</td> + <td align="right">xxvi li. xiii s. iiii d.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item to twelve scolers to be found at the Universite off Oxforde + every of them ix li. xi s. viii d. by yere</td> + <td>cxv li.</td> + <td rowspan="4" align="left">c<br />c<br />x<br />x<br />x<br /> <br />li.<br /> <br />vi<br /> <br />s.<br /> <br />v<br />i<br />i<br />i<br /> <br />d.</td> + <td rowspan="4" align="left">c<br />c<br />i<br />i<br />i<sup>li</sup><br /> <br />x<br />i<br />i<br />i<br /> <br />i<br />i<br />i<br />i.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item to xviii scolers to be taught Gramer Greke and Latyn + every of them iiii li. by yere</td> + <td align="right">lxxii li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item to a scolemaster for the same scolars</td> + <td align="right">x li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item to an ussher for them</td> + <td align="right">vi li. xiii s. iiii d.</td> +</tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr> + <td align="center" colspan="4">DYVINE SERVICE.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item to twelve petycanons eche of them x li. by yere for ther dyet + and wagys</td> + <td align="right">cxx li.</td> + <td rowspan="10" align="left">c<br />c<br />c<br />i<sup>li</sup></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item to tenne laymen syngars eche of them to have yerely for their + dyet and wagys vi li. xiii s. iiii d.</td> + <td align="right">lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item to tenne Choristers eche of them lxvi s. viii d.</td> +<td>xxiii li. vi. s. viii d.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item for a master to the Children for his dyet and wagys</td> + <td align="right">x. li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item to a Gospeller and Epistoler eche of them vi li. xiiis. iiiid.</td> + <td align="right">xii li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item to twoo sextens</td> + <td align="right">xii li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item to a Cator</td> + <td align="right">vi li. xiii s. iiii d.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item to twoo buttellers</td> + <td align="right">xii li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item to two Cookes</td> + <td align="right">xii li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item to thre other commen servaantes as portor and ryngars eche of + them v li.</td> + <td align="right">xv li.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p><a name='Page_98' id='Page_98'></a><span class="pagenum">98</span></p> +<table summary="center" width="100%"> +<tr> + <td colspan="4" align="left">Fol. 33.]</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="center" colspan="4">ALMES.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item to eyght poore men eche of them yerely vi li. xiii. s. iiii d.</td> + <td align="right">liii li. vi s. viii d.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item to be yerely distributed in almes to householders</td> + <td align="right">lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item to be yerely spente in mendynge of hyghways </td> + <td align="right">xx li.</td> +</tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr> + <td align="center" colspan="4">EXPENCES NECESSARIE.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item for yerely reparacions by Estymation.</td> + <td align="right">cxxxi li. viii s. v d.</td> + <td rowspan="5" align="center" colspan="2">xx<br />ciiii<br /> <br />iiii<br />li.<br /><br />xv<br />s.<br /><br />x<br />d.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item in exspences yerely in surveynge the landes and receyvinge + the Rentes</td> + <td align="right">xx li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item in expences for wyne and wax </td> + <td align="right">xiii li. vi s. viii d.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item to a Stewarde of landes for his fee</td> + <td align="right">x li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item to an Auditor </td> + <td align="right">x li.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left"> + <table summary="inset"><tr> + <td align="right" valign="bottom">Sum of the common M<sup>l</sup>CCC</td> + <td align="center" valign="bottom">xx<br />iiii</td> + <td align="left" valign="bottom"> vi li. xiii s. xd.</td></tr> + </table> + </td> + <td align="right" colspan="3"> + <table summary="inset"><tr> + <td align="right" valign="bottom">M<sup>l</sup>CCCC</td> + <td align="center" valign="bottom">xx<br />iiii</td> + <td align="left" valign="bottom"> xvi<sup>li</sup> xv d.</td></tr> + </table> + </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Sum totall of all thies percels </td> + <td align="right" colspan="3">M<sup>l</sup>Dxxii<sup>li</sup> xiii<sup>s</sup> x<sup>d</sup>.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p> +Above which chargys the church indewyd with landes to susteyne the +same muste pay yerely tenthes and a certayne summe by composition for +the fyrste frutes deducted and abbayted.</p> + +<p class="deepdent">Cxxxvi li. payd by the deane and prebendaries severall.<br /> + cxl li. to be allowyd by statute for almes.<br /> + x li. for the stewarde allowyd by statute.<br /> + x li. for the Auditors fee allowyd by statute.</p> + +<table summary="center" width="100%"> +<tr> + <td align="left" valign="bottom">The hole sume of deductions</td> + <td> + <table summary="center"><tr> + <td align="right" valign="bottom">CC</td> + <td align="center" valign="bottom">xx<br />iiii</td> + <td align="left" valign="bottom"> xvi li.</td></tr> + </table> + </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">And so remaynes chargeable with tenthes and fyrst frutes</td> + <td align="right" colspan="3">M<sup>l</sup>CCxxvi li. xiii s. x d.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<table summary="center" width="100%"> +<tr> + <td class="tdfol" colspan="3">[Fol. 33. dors.]</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left" colspan="3">Whereof to be payd for the tenthes of the commen possession</td> + <td rowspan="4">ccxvi<br />li.<br /> <br />ix<br />s.<br /> <br />vi<br />d.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="right" valign="bottom">cxliiii li. vi s. iiii d.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="left">Item a yerely Rent to be payd by composition for the fyrste frutes</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td align="right" valign="bottom">lxxii li. xii s. iid.</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p class="outdent">And so the Cathedrale Churche for mayntenance of the said yerely +charges and paymente touchinge hospitalite lernynge divine +service almes necessarie exspences tenthes and fyrst frutes +after the Rates before mentionyd must yf the said shall lyke +the Kings majestic be indewyd with yerely Revenues of the +summe of <span class="ul">M<sup>l</sup>DCCxxxix<sup>li</sup> xiii s. iiii d.</span></p> + +<p class="right">MDCCxii li. x s.</p> + +<p><a name='Page_99' id='Page_99'></a><span class="pagenum">99</span></p> +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="image35" id="image35"></a> +<a href="images/image38.jpg"> +<img src="images/image38_th.jpg" alt="The Chapter Library." title="The Chapter Library." /> +</a><br /> +<span class="caption">The Chapter Library.</span> +</div> + + +<hr /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a href="#CONTENTS">Table of<br />Contents</a><br />102</span><br /> +<a name='Page_102' id='Page_102'></a></p> +<h2> +<a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a> +CHAPTER V<br /> +<span class="subtitle">The Castle and University</span></h2> + +<p>No notice of Durham and its cathedral would seem complete +without some mention being made of its fortress, the growth +of which has been contemporary with, and, we might almost +say, inseparable from that of the monastery itself.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 293px;"> +<a name="image36" id="image36"></a> +<a href="images/image39.png"> +<img src="images/image39_th.png" + alt="The Chapel or Crypt, Durham Castle." title="The Chapel or Crypt, Durham Castle." /></a> +<span class="caption">The Chapel or Crypt, Durham Castle.</span> +</div> + +<p>There can be little doubt that other than the miraculous +considerations assigned to them by tradition influenced the +monks and the congregation of S. Cuthbert in their final +choice of a resting-place for the bones of their beloved saint. +The almost impregnable position of the rocky promontory +upon which both Cathedral and Castle stand suggests a careful +selection on their part, with a view to the prevention of attack +and consequent further disturbance of their sacred relics. +What the first fortification was is a matter of doubt; most +probably it was merely a wall or rampart of earth, with a large +artificial mound at the weakest point. This seems to have +been the usual practice at an early date at many other places +in England, and in some cases their date is known and +corresponds to the time at which Durham was probably first +fortified. Whatever the earliest protections were, we know +that in 1072 William the Conqueror, on his way from Scotland, +passed through Durham. He quickly perceived the natural +advantages and strength of the position, and gave orders for +the erection of a castle. This was at once set about, during +the episcopacy of Bishop Walcher, and continued under +Carileph and Flambard. Of this building, which might be +styled "The Conqueror's Castle," not much remains. The +most important is the <b>Chapel</b> or Crypt, which belongs, no +doubt, to the earlier part of the period named (1080 to 1096). +In plan the chapel has a nave and two aisles. The roof +is vaulted, the ribs being plain, semi-circular, and square +recessed, and is supported by six circular columns. The +<a name='Page_103' id='Page_103'></a><span class="pagenum">103</span> +capitals of these columns are a somewhat interesting feature, +owing to their Lombardic character. The abaci are square and +moulded, while the caps proper carry at their angles rudely +carved volutes such as occur in the White Tower, London. +Each capital is also carved differently with curious and rude +<a name='Page_104' id='Page_104'></a><span class="pagenum">104</span> +devices. Of the three windows which terminated the nave +and aisle at the east end, one has been destroyed to make +way for a staircase and the other two are built up. The +original windows of the chapel were very narrow and widely +splayed. In the walls are an aumbrey and the remains of +two altars.</p> + +<p>Other remains of this date are somewhat scattered. Two +windows in the undercroft of Bishop Bek's, or what is now +known as <b>Bishop Hatfield's Hall</b>, are examples. They +have converging jambs, the semi-circular heads being cut from +one stone and the inside very widely splayed. The wall from +the keep to the chapel, and that from the keep to the gateway +are also Norman work, as are also portions of the gateway +itself.</p> + +<p>The next important changes in the castle were made by +Bishop Pudsey, 1153-1195, who not only repaired the existing +work but built a hall, known as <b>Pudsey's Hall</b>. Although +this hall has now almost entirely disappeared, through repairs +and alterations, sufficient evidence as to its whereabouts and +general plan is forthcoming. It was of two storeys, the lower +and upper halls. Entrance to the lower hall was originally +gained by a staircase which led from the courtyard to the +splendid doorway now enclosed in Tunstall's Gallery. This +magnificent entrance having been covered with lath and +plaster, and for long completely forgotten, was unearthed by, +and at the expense of Bishop Barrington, early in the present +century. It is in good preservation and is a splendid specimen +of rich Norman architecture. It consists of five orders, all +richly carved and moulded. Three orders rest on carved +capitals and shafts, and two are carried down the jambs of +the doorway. The stairway has entirely disappeared, but +there is little room to doubt that it would be of much the +same character as that in the close at Canterbury; and to the +protection afforded by the staircase roof, we are, no doubt, +indebted for the good preservation of the arch mouldings of +the doorway itself.</p> + +<p>What was originally Pudsey's Upper Hall is now styled the +<b>Norman Gallery</b>. The greater portion of this gallery is +at the present time divided into chambers of residence for the +students of the university. It is reached by the Black Staircase +and a doorway in the Early English Gothic style. The +<a name='Page_105' id='Page_105'></a><span class="pagenum">105</span> +interior of the south and west walls are enriched by arcades +in groups of three, the central bay of each of which is larger +than those flanking it, and is pierced by a window. The +arches of the arcade rest on shafts and cushion capitals, and +are carved with chevron ornament. The whole arrangement +hereabouts bears the impress of having been a portion of one +great building, which an examination of the roof, lead, and +general outline makes even more certain.</p> + +<p>On the western side of the courtyard stands the great +<b>Bek's Hall</b>, built by the bishop of that name. It is above +the Norman undercroft, previously mentioned. Much of its +original character is now lost, owing to restorations, curtailments, +and alterations. Bek's doorway is still in existence, +though much hidden by the porch erected later by Bishop +Cosin. It has a pointed arch of two orders, with detached +shafts in the jambs. Another original relic, unrestored, is +part of the window nearest the fireplace, which is valuable +as evidence of the date of the erection of the hall. The +tracery is geometrical, and the shafts in the angles of the +splays are banded. About the year 1350 Bishop Hatfield +enlarged and altered Bek's hall. At the west end he inserted +two light windows, which are now blocked, though the tracery +may be seen from students' rooms inside, and partly from the +outside. The open oak roof, with the exception of some +necessary later repairs, is of Bishop Hatfield's time. Hatfield +repaired and altered Pudsey's upper hall by the addition of +east and west windows, and probably a new roof. He also +rebuilt the <b>Keep</b>, which time and war had greatly injured. +The existing keep, which was erected in 1840, is similar to +Hatfield's, and in many places stands upon the old foundations. +It is now used entirely as apartments for students of +University College.</p> + +<p>Bishop Fox (1494-1501) is responsible for the next important +changes. He curtailed the great hall by a partition wall +near its south end, which still exists. The wall bears his +badge in two places—a pelican feeding her young with blood +from her breast. He also adapted part of Pudsey's buildings, +near the south-west corner of the castle, to the purposes of a +kitchen, erected three fireplaces, and windows, and the oak +buttery hatch which opens from the kitchen, and which again +has carved upon it "the pelican in her piety."</p> + +<p><a name='Page_106' id='Page_106'></a><span class="pagenum">106</span> +Bishop Tunstall (1530-1558) built <b>Tunstall's Gallery</b>, +which extends from the great hall to the clock tower. It is +entered by Cosin's staircase (erected later) and by an eastern +stair built by Tunstall himself. A curious feature of this stairway +is a port-hole which commands the main entrance to the +courtyard. The present beautiful little chapel is also the work +of Bishop Tunstall. It contains some notable carved oak stalls, +of earlier date than the chapel itself, which were brought from +the castle at Bishop Auckland. The carved devices of the +miserere seats of these stalls are curious and worthy of attention. +The doors in the gateway of the courtyard are the work +of Tunstall's time.</p> + +<p>Bishop Cosin (1660-1672) found the castle in a dilapidated +condition. During the Commonwealth it had been sold to the +then Lord Mayor of London, who used it badly, to say nothing +of the ruin caused by the Scots. He spent large sums in its +restoration. He added the present porch or entrance from the +courtyard to the great hall. The great staircase in the north-west +corner of the courtyard is his and bears his arms. Within +and leading to Tunstall's Gallery is the Black Staircase, also +the work of Cosin. He enlarged the chapel, and constructed +and fitted several apartments in the castle, besides several +minor works. In his will, he says, he spent the greater part of +his temporal estate in "rebuilding and repaireing the two +episcopall Castles of Durham and Bishop Auckland." This, +he states, cost him seventeen thousand pounds, including the +furnishing and ornamenting of the chapels, which he did "for +the use of my successors in those Chappells for ever." Many +of the agreements between Bishop Cosin and his masons, +plasterers, carpenters, and painters, from which the exact +dates and prices paid for the work may be learned, are +preserved.</p> + +<p>The latest important work at the castle was the rebuilding +of the keep, in 1840, which was described at that time as "a +picturesque ruin." It was entirely rebuilt on its original plan. +The gateway to the courtyard was repaired and modernised by +Bishop Barrington, with the existing inartistic result.</p> + +<p>Durham Castle owes its picturesque appearance to two +causes—first, its magnificent and commanding position, on a +rocky escarpment; and second, no doubt, to the many vicissitudes +through which it has passed, the alterations and additions +<a name='Page_107' id='Page_107'></a><span class="pagenum">107</span> +made necessary by time and constant war, and later, the +entirely different uses to which the building is put.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 370px;"> +<a name="image37" id="image37"></a> +<a href="images/image40.jpg"> +<img src="images/image40_th.jpg" alt="Staircase in the Castle." title="Staircase in the Castle." /></a> +<span class="caption">Staircase in the Castle.</span> +</div> + +<p>It is now chiefly used as a hall of residence for university men +and as lodging for the Judges of Assize.</p> + +<p><a name='Page_108' id='Page_108'></a><span class="pagenum">108</span> +The most favourable time for the architectural student to visit +the castle is during one of the university vacations, otherwise +many interesting features would be denied him. Many portions +(except students' chambers) are, however, open to the public +every week day.</p> + +<p><b>The University of Durham.</b>—From an early date, +frequent mention is made in the history of the see of +Durham, of a college at Oxford called the Durham College. +Its origin is not exactly known, but by the liberality of +several bishops and priors its original endowment increased, +until provision was made for eight fellows and eight scholars. +This was the case at the time of the suppression of the +monasteries by King Henry VIII., when, owing to its +connection with the monastery of Durham, the college was +also dissolved. Its revenues, were, however, rescued, and +in 1541 were handed over by the king to the newly +created dean and chapter. Thus the matter stood till 1650, +when a petition was presented to the Protector, showing the +great disadvantages to the North of England arising from the +long distance of Oxford and Cambridge, and praying that +the houses of the dean and prebendaries might be converted +into a college. Cromwell took a favourable view of the idea, +and in a letter to Lenthall, the Speaker, in its support, he +says:—</p> + +<blockquote> +<p>Truly it seems to me a matter of great concernment +and importance, as that which (by the blessing of God) +may much conduce to the promotion of learning and piety +in these poore, rude, and ignorant parts, there being also +many concurring advantages to this place, as pleasantness, +and aptness of situation, healthfull aire, and plenty of provisions, +which seeme to favour and pleade for theire desires +therein.<a name="FNanchor_G_7" id="FNanchor_G_7"></a><a href='#Footnote_G_7' class="fnanchor">7</a></p> +</blockquote> + +<p>Various delays occurred, however, and it was not until 1657 +that the Lord Protector issued his patent for the erection of +the proposed college, in a document consisting of twenty-three +heads.</p> + +<p>The college thus commenced made great progress, and +would no doubt have continued to do so, but for the constant +opposition of the two great universities of Oxford and +Cambridge. Then followed the Restoration, and with [it] + +<a name='Page_109' id='Page_109'></a><span class="pagenum">109</span> +came a reaction against all measures established during the +Protectorate. This feeling, combined with persistent petitions +from the universities, soon accomplished the downfall of +the College.</p> + +<p>Bishop Van Mildert, who was translated to Durham in +1826, during his short episcopate saw many changes, not +the least of which was the successful revival of the scheme +for a university. Powers were obtained in 1832 for the training +of students in divinity and the conferring of degrees in +other faculties. The new foundation was endowed out of +the revenues of the cathedral, and the bishop gave up the +Castle of Durham for the use of the college, besides financial +assistance of £1000 for the first year and £2000 for the +following years until his death in 1836. The first warden +was Dr Charles Thorp, Archdeacon and Canon of Durham, +but it was provided by an order, on the recommendation of +the Ecclesiastical Commissioners that in future the office of +warden should be permanently attached to the deanery, and +that a canonry in the cathedral be annexed to each of the +professorships of Divinity and Greek.</p> + +<p>The government of the university is in the hands of the +dean and chapter, and the affairs administered by a warden, +senate and convocation. A royal charter was obtained in +1837 making the university a corporate body with perpetual +succession and a common seal.</p> + +<p>The university, besides its original schools of arts and +divinity, has established schools of physical science and +medicine, in connection with the Durham College of Science +at Newcastle-on-Tyne, and has recently admitted women +students to its courses and lectures.</p> + +<p>There are many foundation scholarships and exhibitions in +arts, classics, mathematics, and theology, besides a long list +of private foundations and fellowships.</p> + +<p>The university consists of one college and one hall. The +former, University College, occupies the Castle, and the latter, +Bishop Hatfield's Hall.</p> + +<p>It is well supplied with libraries. The university library +founded at the opening, to which Bishop Van Mildert +contributed a valuable collection.</p> + +<p>The library given in 1855 by the late Dr Martin Routh, +president of Magdalen College, Oxford.</p> + +<p><a name='Page_110' id='Page_110'></a><span class="pagenum">110</span> +The library presented by the late Bishop Maltby in 1856, +which he endowed with £1000.</p> + +<p>A library was also bequeathed to the university in 1859 +by the late T.M. Winterbottom, M.D., of Westoe, South +Shields. A large collection of books was bequeathed by the +late Bishop Lightfoot.</p> + +<p>Two other important libraries may here be mentioned, +though they do not belong to the University—viz. the +Chapter Library and Bishop Cosin's Library.</p> +<hr /> + +<p><a name='Page_111' id='Page_111'></a><span class="pagenum">111</span></p> +<h2> +<a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a> +CHAPTER VI<br /> +<span class="subtitle">The City</span></h2> + +<p>Besides the Cathedral and Castle, the City of Durham possesses +several churches of decided interest to the student of architecture, +which deserve a brief notice.</p> + +<p>The Parish Church of <b>S. Mary in the North Bailey</b>.—This +small church is generally known as S. Mary le Bow, +owing to the fact that in its original steeple was an arch, +through which the roadway passed. This steeple fell in 1637, +and the ancient structure was allowed to lapse into complete +ruin. The present church was built in 1685, and its most +noticeable feature is the open carved screen between the nave +and chancel erected in 1707. The site of the church is the +oldest in the city, and some writers have thought it probably +identical with that of the White Church in which the body of +S. Cuthbert was placed during the building of the cathedral.</p> + +<p><b>S. Mary-the-Less</b> is a small but picturesque church +situated in the South Bailey, and is of Norman date. Its +original architectural character is, however, almost entirely +lost, owing to extensive restorations which took place in +1846-7. The round-headed window now in the south wall +of the chancel, but formerly in the west wall of the nave, is +the only remaining original feature. The church is entered +by a porch on the south side, and consists of a nave and +chancel only. Some stones in the churchyard, which were +removed from their position when the church was restored, +are carved with chevron ornament, and would seem to show +that the date of the original structure was the earlier part of +the twelfth century.</p> + +<p><b>S. Oswald.</b>—This church stands on high ground overlooking +the river Wear, at the head of New Elvet; and is the +parish church of the ancient borough of Elvet. The first +church was erected by Bishop Carileph, though the earliest +<a name='Page_112' id='Page_112'></a><span class="pagenum">112</span> +parts of the existing building are of the time of Bishop Pudsey, +who also built the bridge across the river, known as the Elvet +Bridge. To this date (about 1190) belongs the eastern part +of the nave arcade, the arches of which are semi-circular and +rest upon tall round piers. Early in the fourteenth century a +new chancel was built, the aisles rebuilt and extended to the +west end, and two new arches added to the west end of the +nave arcades. In the early part of the fifteenth century a +clerestory and open parapet were added, and a new oak roof +placed over the nave. This was most probably a hammer-beam +roof, and was coloured and gilded and decorated with +angels holding shields. The only parts remaining at the +present day are the grotesque carved corbels, and the angels. +The tower was also constructed at this time. In 1834, owing +to subsidence of the ground, it became necessary to rebuild +the south aisle and a large part of the chancel, which caused +the destruction of much architectural beauty. The open +parapet was removed, the clerestory windows replaced by the +present inferior ones, and the fine oak roof destroyed. The +east end of the chancel was rebuilt in 1864. Special attention +should be directed to the fine oak stall-work in the chancel, +boldly carved in the style of the early part of the fifteenth +century. The tower, which forms a beautiful and conspicuous +landmark, is reached by a stone staircase of unusual character. +It is placed in the thickness of the wall, and is covered in +with twenty-four gravestones of thirteenth and fourteenth +century date, on which may yet be seen portions of inscriptions +and symbols. Built into the tower was part of a Saxon +cross, which has now been removed for preservation to the +dean and chapter library. This cross is interesting as evidence +of the existence on the same site of a pre-Norman church. +The tower was carefully restored in 1863. It contains a +peal of six bells, which were re-cast in 1694, and bear the +following inscriptions:—</p> + +<div class="hang"> +<p>1. GLOVIA(?) IN ALTISSMISS(?) DEO PEX FORSTER A +VIC CHRISTO HODSON ME FECIT 1694.</p> + +<p>3. DEVM TIMETE PEX FORSTER AM VIC I EVANS C +WARDEN CHRISTO HODSON ME FECIT.</p> + +<p>4. REGEM HONORATE PEX FORSTER A M VIC 1694 +CHRISTOPR HODSON MADE ME I EVANS I S +H R.</p> + +<p>5. IBIMUS IN DOMVM DOMINI PEX FORSTER A M VIC +CHRISTOPER HODSON MADE ME 1694 IO EVANS +CHV W.</p> + +<p>6. OSVALDUS FLOREM MEREOR QVIA GESTO TENOREM +PEX FORSTER AM VIC IO EVANS IS WH RW +CW 94.</p> +</div> + +<p><a name='Page_113' id='Page_113'></a><span class="pagenum">113</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="image38" id="image38"></a> +<a href="images/image41.jpg"> +<img src="images/image41_th.jpg" + alt="The Cathedral and Castle, from the North." + title="The Cathedral and Castle, from the North." /> +</a><br /><span class="caption">The Cathedral and Castle, from the North.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name='Page_115' id='Page_115'></a><span class="pagenum">115</span> +The second bell was cast in 1885.</p> + + +<p><b>S. Margaret's</b> Parish Church is situated on the steep hill +called Crossgate. It is opposite to and across the river from +the Castle, and from its churchyard a fine western view of the +cathedral is obtained. The church was built during the early +part of the episcopate of Bishop Pudsey (1154) and was +formerly a chapel under the church of S. Oswald. Here +again alterations and restorations have obliterated much that +originally existed. The church at present consists of a +nave and aisles, a chancel with aisles, a western tower, and +north and south porches. The existing portions of the +original church are the chancel arch, and the south arcade of +four bays, together with part of the clerestory and the north +wall of the chancel. The arcade consists of low massive +circular piers, with cushion capitals and plain chamfered +abaci, which support semi-circular arches of one order also +chamfered.</p> + +<p>The north arcade is also Norman, and very similar in +character to that of S. Oswald. No doubt it is of the +same date, and probably built by the same architect. The +chancel arch has two orders, recessed square and chamfered, +with a plain chamfered hood mould. On both north and +south sides of the arch is a squint. With the exception +of two which are Norman, the windows are nearly all of +modern date. One is in the north wall of the chancel +and is widely splayed. It is not seen on the outside owing +to the vestry which now covers it. The other, a very interesting +specimen, is situated over the western bay of the south +arcade, and is a portion of the original clerestory and the +earliest known clerestory window in the county. The roof +of the nave is of oak, and a good specimen of Perpendicular +work. The tower is of fifteenth-century date, and exceedingly +plain externally, but vaulted in the interior. It opens +on to the church by an arch which has been inserted in the +west wall. There is an interesting font of Frosterley marble, + +<a name='Page_116' id='Page_116'></a><span class="pagenum">116</span> +which is apparently of the same date as the chancel. The +vestry which is raised above the level of the church floor is +of the fifteenth century, and has on its gable the original +gable cross.</p> + +<p>The Parish Church of <b>S. Giles</b> occupies a very elevated +position at the north-east end of the city, and commands one +of the finest views of the cathedral, castle, and city, which +it is possible to obtain. It was built by Bishop Flambard +and finished as early as 1112; but the north wall of the +nave, containing two small Norman windows, widely splayed inwards, +and a walled-up doorway is all that remains of this early +church. The chancel is of later Norman of the time of Pudsey. +Both within and without a bold chamfered string course +runs round the chancel. On the south side is a semi-circular +headed window, with a carved dripstone and nook shafts, the +capitals of which bear a similar character to those in the +Galilee Chapel of the cathedral. In the north wall of the +chancel is the priests' door, now walled up, and the corbels +and springers of the original chancel arch built by Pudsey. +The present arch was erected in 1876. In 1414 considerable +alterations were made during the episcopate of Bishop Langley, +when the walls of the nave were raised, the upper stage of the +tower built, and the west window inserted. The font is a +fine stone bowl resting on a shaft, and is undoubtedly of the +time of Flambard. The chancel contains some monuments of +the Tempest and Heath families, who were the ancestors of +the Marchioness of Londonderry, patroness of the church and +parish of S. Giles. The tower contains three bells, the first +and second of which are pre-Reformation and the third bears +the date 1646.</p> + +<p>On the north side of Gilesgate near to the North-Eastern +goods station, are the ruins of the little <b>Chapel of S. Mary +Magdalen</b>, of which only a small portion remains. At the +west end of the north and south walls are two doorways, the +latter walled up. Portions of the east window are still in +position, but it would appear to have been of earlier date than +the surrounding walls, and probably had been brought from +some other building. In the interior are the remains of a +Frosterley marble font, and a gable cross of thirteenth-century +date is in the custody of the dean and chapter. The +chapel was 43 feet by 16-1/2 feet wide. It is supposed to +<a name='Page_117' id='Page_117'></a><span class="pagenum">117</span> +have been founded by Sir John Fitz Alexander. In 1370 +it was almost entirely rebuilt, and again in 1449, on a site +near the original one. The reason for this was the moisture +of the ground, which caused the foundations to become +insecure. The government was in the hands of the almoner +of the cathedral, who distributed doles to the poor. The +chapel was used as a place of worship until nearly the end +of the seventeenth century, when, owing to its ruinous +condition, services were finally discontinued.</p> + +<hr /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a href="#CONTENTS">Table of<br />Contents</a></span></p> + +<div class="center"> +<table width="66%" summary="center dimensions"> + <tr><th align="center" colspan="3">PRINCIPAL DIMENSIONS OF THE CATHEDRAL</th></tr> + <tr><td> </td><td align="right">Feet</td><td align="right">Inches</td></tr> + <tr><td align="left">Length of Nave</td><td align="right">201</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> + <tr><td align="left">Width of Nave</td><td align="right">39</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> + <tr><td align="left">Width of Nave Aisles</td><td align="right">21</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> + <tr><td align="left">Length of North Transept</td><td align="right">66</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> + <tr><td align="left">Length of South Transept</td><td align="right">66</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> + <tr><td align="left">Width of Transepts</td><td align="right">37</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> + <tr><td align="left">Length of Choir</td><td align="right">132</td><td align="right">6</td></tr> + <tr><td align="left">Width of Choir</td><td align="right">39</td><td align="right">6</td></tr> + <tr><td align="left">Width of Choir Aisles</td><td align="right">19</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> + <tr><td align="left">Length of Nine Altars Chapel</td><td align="right">131</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> + <tr><td align="left">Width of Nine Altars Chapel</td><td align="right">38</td><td align="right">6</td></tr> + <tr><td align="left">Height of Vaulting of Nine Altars Chapel</td><td align="right">77</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> + <tr><td align="left">Height of Vaulting of Choir</td><td align="right">74</td><td align="right">6</td></tr> + <tr><td align="left">Height of Vaulting of Nave</td><td align="right">72</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> + <tr><td align="left">Height of Vaulting of Lantern</td><td align="right">155</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> + <tr><td align="left">Width of Lantern E. to W.</td><td align="right">40</td><td align="right">6</td></tr> + <tr><td align="left">Width of Lantern N. to S.</td><td align="right">39</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> + <tr><td align="left">Height of Tower Arches</td><td align="right">68</td><td align="right">6</td></tr> + <tr><td align="left">Length of Galilee Chapel</td><td align="right">77</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> + <tr><td align="left">Width of Galilee</td><td align="right">49</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> + <tr><td align="left">Height of Western Towers</td><td align="right">144</td><td align="right">6</td></tr> + <tr><td align="left">Height of Central Tower</td><td align="right">218</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> + <tr><td align="left">Total length of Church (interior)</td><td align="right">469</td><td align="right">6</td></tr> + <tr><td align="left">Thickness of Wall at West End</td><td align="right">8</td><td align="right">0</td></tr> + <tr><td align="left">AREA:</td><td align="right">44,400 sq. ft.</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="image39" id="image39"></a> +<a href="images/image42.png"> +<img src="images/image42_th.png" alt="PLAN AND DIMENSIONS." title="PLAN AND DIMENSIONS." /> +</a> +</div> + +<hr /> + +<h2><a name="FOOTNOTES" title="FOOTNOTES"></a> +FOOTNOTES</h2> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p> +<span class="label"><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a> +<a href='#FNanchor_A_1'>1</a></span> +Sanderson, in his edition of "Rites of Durham," 1767, says: "He +is said to be descended from the Blood Royal of the Kings of Ireland, +being son of one Muriardach and Sabina his wife, a King's daughter. He +was educated in the Abbey of Mailrose."</p> + +<p><span class="label"><a name="Footnote_B_2" id="Footnote_B_2"></a> +<a href='#FNanchor_B_2'>2</a></span> +"County of Durham," by J.K. Boyle, F.S.A.</p> + +<p> +<span class="label"><a name="Footnote_C_3" id="Footnote_C_3"></a> +<a href='#FNanchor_C_3'>3</a></span> +Raine. S. Cuthbert</p> + +<p> +<span class="label"><a name="Footnote_D_4" id="Footnote_D_4"></a> +<a href='#FNanchor_D_4'>4</a></span> +Photographs, coloured by the late J.I. Williamson, are +exhibited in the South Kensington Museum.</p> + +<p> +<span class="label"><a name="Footnote_E_5" id="Footnote_E_5"></a> +<a href='#FNanchor_E_5'>5</a></span> +Geoffrey de Coldingham.</p> + +<p> +<span class="label"><a name="Footnote_F_6" id="Footnote_F_6"></a> +<a href='#FNanchor_F_6'>6</a></span> +"Rites of Durham."</p> + +<p> +<span class="label"><a name="Footnote_G_7" id="Footnote_G_7"></a> +<a href='#FNanchor_G_7'>7</a></span> +Hutchinson, vol. i</p> +</div> + +<hr /> + + +<h4>TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES</h4> +<ol><li>Full page photographs in the original text were sometimes placed so as to split paragraphs. These have +been moved to immediately before or after the paragraph that was split. When this was done, page numbers have +been moved from their original location to preserve sequential numbering and to show on which page the +photograph was placed. </li> +<li>Some page numbers are missing, as there were often blank pages before or after full page photographs.</li> +</ol> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral +Church of Durham, by J. E. 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