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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral Church of
+Durham, by J. E. Bygate
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral Church of Durham
+       A Description of Its Fabric and A Brief History of the Episcopal See
+
+Author: J. E. Bygate
+
+Release Date: December 26, 2006 [EBook #20191]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF DURHAM ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Jonathan Ingram, David Cortesi and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Durham Cathedral, from the South-West.]
+
+
+
+
+             THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF
+                     DURHAM
+
+            A DESCRIPTION OF ITS FABRIC
+            AND A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE
+                  EPISCOPAL SEE
+
+                      BY
+             J.E. BYGATE, A.R.C.A.
+
+        [Illustration: Arms of the See.]
+
+         WITH FORTY-FOUR ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+        LONDON GEORGE BELL & SONS 1905
+
+
+    _First Published         ... March 1899_
+    _Second Edition, Revised ... September 1900_
+    _Reprinted               ... 1905_
+
+    _The Riverside Press Limited, Edinburgh_
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+GENERAL PREFACE
+
+
+This series of monographs has been planned to supply visitors to the
+great English Cathedrals with accurate and well illustrated guide-books
+at a popular price. The aim of each writer has been to produce a work
+compiled with sufficient knowledge and scholarship to be of value to the
+student of Archæology and History, and yet not too technical in
+language for the use of an ordinary visitor or tourist.
+
+To specify all the authorities which have been made use of in each case
+would be difficult and tedious in this place. But amongst the general
+sources of information which have been almost invariably found useful
+are:--(1) the great county histories, the value of which, especially in
+questions of genealogy and local records, is generally recognised; (2)
+the numerous papers by experts which appear from time to time in the
+Transactions of the Antiquarian and Archæological Societies; (3) the
+important documents made accessible in the series issued by the Master
+of the Rolls; (4) the well-known works of Britton and Willis on the
+English Cathedrals; and (5) the very excellent series of Handbooks to
+the Cathedrals originated by the late Mr John Murray; to which the
+reader may in most cases be referred for fuller detail, especially in
+reference to the histories of the respective sees.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+AUTHOR'S PREFACE
+
+
+As much as possible of this brief description of Durham is from the
+personal acquaintance of the writer with the building. Yet many
+authorities have, of necessity, been consulted in its preparation,
+notably a pamphlet by the Rev. Canon W. Greenwell, and the "County of
+Durham," by J.R. Boyle, F.S.A. Thanks are also due to the authorities of
+the Cathedral for having freely given permission to make drawings and
+measurements, and to the late Mr Weatherall, chief verger, for his
+kindly assistance and information.
+
+The illustrations are chiefly from sketches and drawings by the writer,
+and from photographs reproduced by the kindness of the Photochrom
+Company, Ltd., and Messrs S.B. Bolas & Co.
+
+                                                            J.E.B.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+CHAPTER I.--The Building of the Church                          3
+
+CHAPTER II.--Description of the Exterior                       21
+    The Towers                                                 21
+    The East Front                                             22
+    The West Front                                             25
+    The North Door                                             25
+    The South Door                                             26
+    The West Door                                              28
+    The Cloister                                               29
+    The Chapter-House                                          32
+    The Dun Cow                                                35
+
+CHAPTER III.--Description of the Interior                      39
+    The Nave                                                   39
+    The Choir                                                  40
+    The Neville Screen                                         43
+    The Transepts                                              50
+    The Tower                                                  53
+    The East End                                               54
+    The Chapel of the Nine Altars                              61
+    The Tomb of S. Cuthbert                                    69
+    The Galilee or Lady Chapel                                 72
+    Monuments in the Nave and Transepts                        79
+    The Font                                                   81
+
+CHAPTER IV.--History of the See                                82
+
+CHAPTER V.--The Castle and University                         102
+
+CHAPTER VI.--The City                                         111
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+Durham Cathedral, from the South-West               _Frontispiece_
+Arms of the See                                       _Title Page_
+The Exterior, from the College                                  2
+The Dun Cow                                                     9
+The West End (from an Old Print)                               17
+The Exterior, from Palace Green                                20
+The Central Tower                                              23
+Detail of Ironwork                                             26
+The Sanctuary Knocker                                          26
+Ironwork on Doors of Cloisters                                 27
+Ornament on South Doorway                                      28
+The Cloister                                                   29
+S. Cuthbert's Chest.                                           32
+The Chapter-House                                              33
+The Exterior, from the South-East                              35
+The Nave, looking West                                         38
+One Bay of the Nave (Measured Drawing)                         41
+Triforium and Clerestory                                       45
+The Choir, looking West                                        47
+The Transepts, looking North                                   51
+Corbels in Choir                                           54, 58
+The Choir, looking East                                        55
+Triforium of Nave and Choir                                    59
+Plan of Norman East End                                        61
+Sections of Hood and Arch Mouldings                            61
+Capitals in the Nine Altars Chapel                             62
+The Nine Altars Chapel                                         63
+Capital in Galilee Chapel                                      66
+The Galilee Chapel                                         67, 72
+Paintings in the Galilee Chapel                                73
+Detail of the Galilee Chapel                                   75
+The Font and Cover                                             80
+The Crypt                                                      85
+Stone Coffin Lid                                               88
+The Chapter Library                                            99
+The Chapel or Crypt, Durham Castle                            103
+Staircase in the Castle                                       107
+The Cathedral and Castle, from the North                      113
+
+PLAN AND DIMENSIONS                                           118
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: The Exterior, from the College.]
+
+
+
+
+DURHAM CATHEDRAL
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+THE BUILDING OF THE CHURCH
+
+
+The traveller northward by the East Coast Route cannot fail to be struck
+by the beauty of the city of Durham, with its red-roofed houses nestling
+beneath the majestic site of the cathedral and castle. For splendid
+position the Cathedral of Durham stands unequalled in this country; on
+the Continent, perhaps that of Albi can alone be compared with it in
+this respect. The cathedral and Norman Castle are upon the summit of a
+lofty tongue of land which is almost surrounded by the River Wear. In
+parts the banks are rocky and steep, in others thickly wooded. The river
+itself is spanned here and there by fine and historic bridges.
+
+The early history of Durham is obscure. There are many vague legends in
+existence, a natural consequence, perhaps, when we remember the various
+and often speedy changes of ownership to which that part of the country
+was for centuries subjected.
+
+To lead up clearly to the founding of the Cathedral of Durham, it will
+be necessary to describe briefly the earliest introduction of
+Christianity into the north of England. That Christianity was known in
+this country during the time of the Romans there is sufficient evidence
+to prove. There is, however, little to show that it existed in the north
+to any appreciable extent. All or nearly all the carved stones, altars,
+etc., disinterred in that part of the country have been of undoubted
+Pagan origin.
+
+The ancient kingdom of Northumbria comprised the present counties of
+Durham, Northumberland, and Yorkshire, and a part of the south-east of
+Scotland as far north as the Firth of Forth. This kingdom was
+sub-divided into two portions. The Southern, or Deira, extended from the
+Tees to the Humber, and the Northern, or Bernicia, reached from the Tees
+to the Firth of Forth. The province of Bernicia was settled about A.D.
+547 by Ida, a chief of the Angles, who made his headquarters on a steep
+rock on the sea-coast about sixteen miles south of Berwick. He was
+succeeded by his son Ethelric, who built himself a stronghold, which he
+named after his wife Bebbanburgh, a name still retained in a shortened
+form--Bamburgh. Ethelric was followed by Ella, whose son Edwin was
+driven into exile by his fierce brother-in-law, Ethelfrith, and took
+possession of Deira, the southern province of Northumbria. After
+attaining his majority, Edwin, assisted by Redwald, regained his
+kingdom, and eventually ruled over the whole of Northumbria; it is
+during his reign that we find the first authentic history of
+Christianity in the north. Edwin married Ethelburga, a daughter of
+Ethelbert, king of Kent, who had been converted to Christianity by the
+preaching of S. Augustine. He himself received baptism at the hands of
+Paulinus (625-633), the great Roman missionary, who was sent north with
+the Princess Ethelburga. Paulinus fixed his headquarters at York, where
+he built his church, the forerunner of the present cathedral. This
+attempt of the Romans to christianise Northumbria was, however, of short
+duration. Cadwalla and Penda rose against them, and Edwin fell in battle
+at Hatfield Moor in Yorkshire. Paulinus, despairing of the cause,
+returned to Kent with the queen-widow Ethelburga and her children; and
+under Cadwalla and Penda, the kingdom soon relapsed into Paganism.
+
+We must now direct our attention to a small, barren island on the west
+coast of Scotland, Iona. Here came a voluntary exile (A.D. 563),
+Columba, a monk, said to have been a descendant of the Irish kings. Here
+he lived and founded a great missionary monastery, which afterwards
+became the centre of Christian influence in Scotland and the north of
+England. He and his followers were active workers; they wrote Gospels
+and devotional books, preached, and built churches of wood. Columba died
+(A.D. 597), but his work was continued.
+
+In 634, Oswald, a son of Ethelfrith, became king of Northumbria. In his
+youth he, with his brothers, had been obliged to flee to Scotland,
+where, during his exile, Oswald was converted to Christianity by the
+teachers of Iona. On his return he defeated and killed Cadwalla at
+Hevenfeld, or Heavenfield, near Hexham, in 634, and became the means of
+finally introducing Christianity into his kingdom. Soon after he became
+king, Oswald sent to Iona for help, and in reply came a monk, who, for
+some reason, said by old writers to be his harshness, failed in his
+mission. He was replaced by another monk named Aidan (635-651), who was
+eminently successful. Beda speaks of him as "a man of great piety and
+zeal, combined with tender charity and gentleness." Aidan became
+intimately associated with King Oswald, the two working together, and he
+chose for his headquarters the small sandy island of Lindisfarne, off
+the Northumbrian coast, which we now know as "Holy Island."
+
+Lindisfarne thus resembled Iona, and it is probable that the similarity
+of position and surroundings influenced Aidan in his choice. However
+that may be, Aidan there founded his monastery and directed the work of
+his monks.
+
+Passing over a short period, we find at Lindisfarne a monk who is so
+intimately connected with this cathedral that he demands special
+attention--the great S. Cuthbert, sixth bishop of Lindisfarne, and the
+patron saint of Durham. Little is known of his birth and parentage. Some
+writers give him a Scotch origin, others Irish,[1] and others again say
+he was born of humble parents on the banks of the Tweed. The latter is
+most probable. Certain it is that at an early age he was left an orphan,
+and was employed as an under-shepherd near to Melrose. From his earliest
+youth he was thoughtful and pious, and watched and imitated in his mode
+of life the monks of Melrose. There are numerous legends and stories of
+S. Cuthbert's youth. He is said to have wrought many miracles, even to
+the extent of stilling a tempest. One of these may be told here on
+account of the share it played in his choice of monastic life:--On a
+certain night in A.D. 651, while tending his sheep, his companions being
+asleep, Cuthbert saw in the heavens a brilliant shaft of light, and
+angels descending. These very shortly re-ascended, bearing among them "a
+spirit of surpassing brightness." In the morning it was found that the
+good S. Aidan was dead. The vision had a marked and lasting effect on
+Cuthbert, and eventually resulted in his entering the monastery at
+Melrose. For ten years Cuthbert led a holy and studious life at Melrose,
+under Prior Boisil, when he was chosen among others to proceed to the
+newly-founded monastery at Ripon. His sojourn there was, however, short,
+as owing to doctrinal differences concerning the celebration of Easter,
+he and the other Scottish monks returned to Melrose. Some four years
+later, on the death of Boisil, Cuthbert was elected his successor, as
+prior of Melrose. In A.D. 664, we find him holding the same office at
+Lindisfarne, where he remained for twelve years. He then retired from
+his position, in order to attain a higher degree of Christian perfection
+by living a solitary life, first on a small island near Lindisfarne, and
+afterwards on the island of Farne, near Bamburgh. There are many stories
+told of his great piety at this time, so that even the wild sea-birds
+are said to have obeyed him.
+
+   [1] Sanderson, in his edition of "Rites of Durham," 1767, says:
+       "He is said to be descended from the Blood Royal of the Kings
+       of Ireland, being son of one Muriardach and Sabina his wife,
+       a King's daughter. He was educated in the Abbey of Mailrose."
+
+In the year A.D. 685 Cuthbert was, though against his own wishes,
+consecrated Bishop of Lindisfarne. His great activity and usefulness in
+this office was soon cut short, for in less than two years, on the 20th
+of March A.D. 687, he died. Obediently to his own request, his body was
+wrapped in a linen cloth, which had been given him by the Abbess Yerca;
+and, placed in a stone coffin, the gift of the Abbot Cudda, was interred
+in the church at Lindisfarne. He was not to rest, however. In A.D. 698
+the monks disinterred his remains in order to place them in a
+specially-prepared wooden coffin. It is said they found the saint's body
+perfectly incorrupt. To quote the quaint Hegge:
+
+    But whiles they opened his coffin, they start at a wonder, they
+    look't for bones and found flesh, they expected a skeleton, and saw
+    an entire bodie, with joynts flexible, his flesh so succulent, that
+    there only wanted heate to make his bodie live without a soul, and
+    his face so dissembling death, that elsewhere it is true that sleep
+    is the image of death, but here death was the image of sleep. Nay,
+    his very funerall weeds were so fresh, as if putrefaction had not
+    dared to take him by the coat.[2]
+
+  [2] "County of Durham," by J.K. Boyle, F.S.A.
+
+Whatever may be the truth of this, his body was placed in a wooden
+coffin, portions of which are still preserved in the chapter library at
+Durham.
+
+Over a century and a half after these events the coast of Northumbria
+was disturbed and troubled by the piratical invasions of the Danes. The
+number and violence of these incursions so increased that the whole
+country lay practically at their mercy. Becoming alarmed for their own
+safety and that of their holy relics, the monks of Lindisfarne fled,
+taking with them the body of their saint, and all their sacred vessels
+and books. This occurred in A.D. 875.
+
+Here commenced that long wandering which eventually ended in the
+founding of the Cathedral Church of Durham, where the bones of S.
+Cuthbert found their final resting-place.
+
+Bishop Eardulph and his monks, with their sacred charge, travelled for
+seven years, over a great portion of the north of England and part of
+the south of Scotland. Many churches dedicated to S. Cuthbert in the
+north are thought to mark their resting-places. From a list of these
+given by Prior Wessington the probable route of the wanderers can be
+approximately, made out as follows:--First to Elsdon and down the Rede
+to Haydon Bridge. Up the South Tyne to Beltinghame, and then following
+the route of the Roman Wall to Bewcastle. Turning south to Salkeld, and
+thence by Eden Hall and Plumbland into Lancashire, towards the river
+Derwent. Here they came to a determination to cross to Ireland, and took
+ship from the mouth of the Derwent. Very soon a violent storm arose, the
+vessel became unmanageable and was nearly filled with water, which,
+according to Symeon, immediately turned into blood. A return was
+inevitable. It was during this attempt that the famous copy of the
+Gospels, known as the Durham Book, was washed overboard into the sea.
+This book is, perhaps, the most beautiful example of Anglo-Saxon writing
+and illumination extant, and is surpassed only by the celebrated Irish
+MS., the Book of Kells. It was shortly afterwards found on the coast in
+a comparatively uninjured condition; and is now preserved in the British
+Museum. The wandering monks next turned northwards as far as Witherne,
+on the Galloway coast, and then returned to England, through
+Westmoreland and across Stainmoor into Teesdale, staying for a time at
+a village, which no doubt owes it present name Cotherstone to this
+circumstance. Leaving here and crossing the hills, through Marske,
+Forcett and Barton, they arrived at the abbey of Craike, near
+Easingwold, where they were kindly treated by the abbot, and remained
+about four months. On resuming their journey the monks removed the body
+of S. Cuthbert to Cuncachester, or, as we now know it, Chester-le-Street,
+a former Roman camp. Here the fraternity remained for a hundred and
+thirteen years; and here was the seat of the Bishopric of Bernicia until
+A.D. 995. Many are the legends clustering round these journeyings. How,
+when leaving Lindisfarne, the sea opened a passage for them, and how in
+more than one difficulty the dead saint himself gave them assistance.
+Notably, on one occasion when the bearers were worn out and weary he
+appeared and showed them where they would find a horse and car in which
+to carry their burden. This horse and car were afterwards used on their
+journeys.
+
+In the year 995, again for safety, they removed once more under Bishop
+Aldhun, first for a short time to Ripon, and then finally to Durham. It
+is of this last journey the following story is told:--
+
+    "Coming with him" (_v._ Sanderson), "on the _East_ Side of _Durham_,
+    to a Place call'd _Wardenlawe,_ they could not with all their Force
+    remove his body further, for it seemed fastened to the Ground; which
+    strange and unforeseen Accident produced great Astonishment in the
+    Hearts of the Bishop, the Monks, and their Associates; whereupon
+    they fasted and prayed three Days with great Devotion, to know by
+    Revelation from God, what to do with the holy Body, which was soon
+    granted to them, it being revealed to _Eadmer_, a virtuous Man, that
+    he should be carried to _Dunholme_, where he was to be received to a
+    Place of Rest. They were again in great Distress, in not knowing
+    where _Dunholme_ lay; but as they proceeded, a Woman wanting her
+    Cow, called aloud to her Companion, to know if she had seen her? Who
+    answered, She was in _Dunholme_. This was an happy and heavenly
+    Sound to the distressed Monks, who thereby had Intelligence that
+    their Journey's End was at Hand, and the Saint's Body near its
+    Resting-place; thereupon with great Joy they arrived with his
+    Body at _Dunholme_, in the Year 997."
+
+[Illustration: The Dun Cow.]
+
+Arrived at Dunholm they raised a "little Church of Wands and Branches"
+to protect the sacred relics until a building more worthy of such a
+charge could be erected. This was the beginning of the Cathedral and
+City of Durham.
+
+The condition of the place at this time must have been very wild, and it
+certainly was a natural stronghold. The only open spot seems to have
+been the plateau where the cathedral now stands. The site is curiously
+described in a Saxon poem, from which the following is a translation:--
+
+  The City is celebrated
+  In the whole Empire of the Britons
+  The road to it is steep
+  It is surrounded with rocks
+  And with curious plants
+  The Wear flows round it
+  A river of rapid waves
+  And there live in it
+  Fishes of various kinds
+  Mingling with the floods.
+  And there grow
+  Great Forests,
+  There live in the recesses
+  Wild Animals of many sorts
+  In the deep valleys
+  Deer innumerable.
+
+As soon as possible a stone chapel was built, in which the body of S.
+Cuthbert was placed. Bishop Aldhun, not satisfied with this, determined
+to establish a great church. Work was immediately commenced and
+progressed so rapidly that the building, known as "the White Church,"
+was consecrated in A.D. 999. Of this there would seem to be no authentic
+remains existing; although some authorities think portions of it are
+included in the present cathedral. Bishop Aldhun died in 1018. The next
+date of importance is the year 1081, when William of Saint Carileph was
+appointed Bishop by the Conqueror. He was a monk of the Benedictine
+order, and at once drove out and dispossessed the secular clergy at
+Durham, replacing them from the Benedictine Monasteries which were
+established at Jarrow and Monkwearmouth. Bishop Carileph is the man to
+whom we owe the present Cathedral of Durham. In 1088 he was obliged to
+flee into exile in Normandy, where he remained three years, through his
+having taken part in the rebellion against William II. It was probably
+during this time of banishment that he conceived the idea that if he
+returned to Durham he would build a more worthy church, such as were
+already erected and in course of construction in Normandy.
+
+Soon after his return in 1091 he commenced to carry out his scheme; and
+we learn that on the 11th of August 1093, the foundation stone of the
+new church was laid, with great pomp.
+
+The work proceeded rapidly, commencing at the east end. By the time of
+Bishop Carileph's death, which occurred in 1096, the walls of the choir,
+the eastern walls of the transepts, the tower arches, and a portion of
+the first bay of the nave, were completed. It is also very probable that
+the lower portion of the walls of the whole church are of Carileph's
+time.
+
+After the death of Bishop Carileph the see of Durham remained vacant for
+three years. The monks, however, were not idle during this period, and
+they continued the work vigorously, completing the west walls of the
+transepts and the vaulting of the north transept. In 1099 Ralph Flambard
+was appointed bishop, and he held the office until 1128. He carried on
+the building as the funds at his disposal would allow, sometimes rapidly
+and at others more slowly. Before his death it would appear that he
+completed the nave as high as the wall plates and altogether finished
+and roofed the aisles. The western towers as far as the height of the
+roof of the nave are also the work of Flambard. In 1104 the work was so
+far advanced as to permit the removal of the body of S. Cuthbert, from
+the temporary shrine which Bishop Carileph had erected over it, into the
+new church. This ceremony was performed on August 29th, 1104, and the
+coffin was placed in a shrine behind the high altar.
+
+On Flambard's death in 1128 the see was again left vacant for five
+years, but we are told that the monks continued the work and completed
+the nave. The portion built by them at this time must of necessity have
+been the vaulting and roof, the architectural features of which are
+quite in accordance with the date, being late Norman.
+
+Flambard's successor was Galfrid Rufus, who was Bishop from 1133 to
+1140.
+
+During his episcopate the chapter-house, which had been commenced by
+the monks, was completed. Rufus also replaced the then existing north
+and south doorways of the nave, by those standing to-day.
+
+The next bishop, William de St Barbara (1143 to 1152), does not appear
+to have added anything to the cathedral. During his time of office the
+see was usurped by William Cummin, and building operations were no doubt
+neglected through the troubles arising from the usurpation. His
+successor, Hugh Pudsey (1153 to 1195) was, however, a great builder;
+appointed to the see at a comparatively early age, and, living as he
+did, at a time when very great changes were taking place in
+architectural style, he was able to carry out a great deal of beautiful
+work.
+
+He began to build a Lady Chapel at the east end of the choir, but
+although he had made careful preparations, and engaged skilled
+architects and workmen, great cracks appeared in the walls before the
+work had proceeded far, and the building was stopped. Bishop Pudsey,
+taking this as a divine revelation that the work was not pleasing to
+God, and the patron S. Cuthbert, abandoned it and commenced another
+chapel at the west end of the church, using in its erection the Purbeck
+marble bases and columns which he had had prepared for his eastern
+chapel. This second attempt was successful and remains to us in that
+beautiful and unique specimen of Transitional work, the Galilee Chapel.
+Its date may be taken, says Canon Greenwell, "as about the year 1175."
+Besides this work Pudsey built the hall and solar now called (at the
+top) the "Norman Gallery" of Durham Castle.
+
+Little or nothing further seems to have been done until the translation
+of Bishop Poore from the see of Sarum to Durham in 1229. The name of
+Bishop Poore is inseparably connected with the building of the present
+Salisbury Cathedral, and after his removal to Durham he conceived the
+idea of, and made preparations for, commencing the eastern transept of
+the Cathedral, which is a special feature of Durham, now known as the
+Chapel of the Nine Altars. He was not, however, destined to live to see
+his idea carried out.
+
+The eastern termination of Carileph's choir had been apsidal; it was
+found to be in a very unsafe condition, cracks and fissures appearing in
+the walls. Various bishops and priors sent aid towards "the new work,"
+but actual building did not commence until after the death of Bishop
+Poore in 1237. The erection was commenced by Prior Melsanby and, of
+course, necessitated the taking down of Carileph's apses. The revaulting
+of the choir was undertaken at this time, doubtless, for artistic
+reasons, to bring the new work into harmony with the old. The Chapel of
+the Nine Altars is a rare and valuable specimen of Early English Gothic
+architecture of remarkable and graceful design. Below each of its nine
+lancet windows was originally an altar, dedicated to different saints.
+Its great height was obtained by lowering the floor, so that the unity
+of the whole exterior should not be destroyed. Prior Melsanby is also
+said to have put a new roof on the church.
+
+Prior Hugh de Derlington, who was at the head of affairs from 1258 to
+1272, and later from 1285 to 1289, added a belfry to the central tower.
+
+John Fossor, made prior of Durham in 1342, inserted the large window in
+the north transept and the west windows of the nave.
+
+Bishop Thomas de Hatfield (1346 to 1381) seems to have done no
+architectural work beyond the erection of his own throne and tomb (in
+which he was afterwards buried) on the south side of the choir. This is
+an elaborate and sumptuous piece of work, and shows remains of rich
+colouring and gilding. About this time, also, the beautiful altar screen
+known as the Neville screen was erected. Its cost was principally borne
+by Lord John Neville, though the Priors Fossor and Berrington and the
+subordinate cells of Jarrow and Monkwearmouth were also contributors.
+The screen is of stone--very light and graceful, and originally
+contained in the niches 107 figures, which have unfortunately been
+destroyed.
+
+Bishop Walter de Skirlaw, who occupied the episcopal throne from 1388 to
+1405, was a great builder. To him mainly we owe the present cloisters,
+though they were completed by his successor, Cardinal Langley, in 1418.
+
+The monks' dormitory on the western side of the cloister is also of this
+time. On the southern side was the refectory. This portion was rebuilt
+by Dean Sudbury between 1661 and 1684 and converted into a library, and
+such it remains to-day.
+
+Near the refectory is the kitchen, built by Prior Fossor. It is
+octagonal in plan, and possesses a fine groined roof. It is now attached
+to the deanery, and known as the dean's kitchen.
+
+We must now turn our attention to the erection of the present central
+tower. The belfry added by Hugh de Derlington was in 1429 struck by
+lightning and set on fire. It must after this have been repaired in some
+way, but in 1456 it was in a very unsafe and dangerous condition, as the
+following letter written by the prior, William Ebchester, to Bishop
+Neville testifies:--
+
+    "The Belfry of your church, both in its masonry and timber, in
+    consequence of winds and storms is so enfeebled and shaken, that
+    doubts are entertained of its standing for any length of time. We
+    have called in workmen in both capacities, and they have reported to
+    us that three of its sides are out of perpendicular, that many of
+    the Key and cornerstones of its windows have fallen out, that in
+    other respects it is defective, and that besides, its woodwork is in
+    a state of great decay so that it cannot be expected to stand for
+    any length of time. Some are of opinion that the belfry should be
+    totally removed as it cannot stand longer; others on the contrary,
+    wish it to be perfectly restored; a thing which exceeds our means,
+    unless we have the advantage of charitable aid. In this state of
+    doubt and hesitation, we have recourse to you, as members to their
+    head, presuming not to engage in any such great and stupendous
+    alteration with reference to your church, without your advice.
+
+    "If, which God forbid, the tower should fall, the solemn fabric of
+    our choir, and the shrine of our most holy patron, would without
+    doubt, be broken down and irrevocably laid flat on the ground, for
+    that is the direction in which it leans. We confess that whenever
+    winds and storms are high, and we are standing at our duty in that
+    part of the church we tremble for our fate, having positive danger
+    before our eyes."
+
+Shortly afterwards, the rebuilding of all the upper part of the central
+tower was commenced and continued for some years. It was not complete in
+1474 when Richard Bell was prior, as in a letter written at the time he
+mentions the "reedificacion of our steeple, begun but nogt fynyshed, in
+defaulte of goods, as God knoweth." It is therefore most probable that
+the upper portion was not completed until towards the close of the
+fifteenth century.
+
+We have now reached a period when the glories of Gothic architecture
+were fading, during which many of our finest churches suffered
+considerably. Durham is no exception to the rule, and we find during the
+next two centuries a long record of destruction and so-called
+improvement. This, perhaps, reached its worst stage during the time of
+Wyatt, who in 1796 pulled down the magnificent Norman chapter-house.
+During the last decade, however, this has been completely rebuilt from
+as nearly as possible the original design. Wyatt also rebuilt the
+turrets on the eastern transept or Nine Altar Chapel from his own
+design, and removed the great Early English rose window in the east end
+and replaced it by the present one. The original stained glass was taken
+out of all the windows of the east end, and Raine, in his history, tells
+us that it "lay for a long time afterwards in baskets upon the floor,
+and when the greater part of it had been purloined, the remainder was
+locked up in the Galilee.... At a still later period, about fifteen
+years ago, portions of it were placed in the great round window, and the
+rest still remains unappropriated." This was written in 1833. It is also
+on record that Wyatt formed a scheme to re-open the great western
+doorway of the cathedral by the pulling down of the Galilee Chapel, from
+which he intended constructing a carriage-drive to the castle. This
+abomination was actually commenced when Dean Cornwallis arrived, and he,
+with the assistance of John Carter, and the Society of Antiquaries, was
+fortunately able to put a stop to it. Thus was this beautiful and unique
+specimen of Transitional Norman architecture preserved to us.
+
+Wyatt contemplated several other "improvements" of a similar character,
+one of which was the surmounting of the central tower by a spire, but
+fortunately he was not allowed to carry them out.
+
+During the present century many restorations have been made, of which we
+will mention only the most notable:--The central tower was restored by
+Sir Gilbert Scott in 1859.
+
+During 1870 to 1876 extensive internal alterations were made. A new
+choir screen and pulpit were erected, the floor of the choir laid in
+marble mosaic, the choir stalls returned to their original positions,
+and the walls of the church scraped in order to clear them from the many
+coats of lime and distemper which lay on them.
+
+[Illustration: The West End (from an Old Print).]
+
+The Norman chapter-house has lately been restored and in great part
+rebuilt as a memorial to the late Bishop Lightfoot.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: The Exterior, From Palace Green.]
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+DESCRIPTION OF THE EXTERIOR
+
+
+Approaching the Cathedral Church of Durham from the north by the large
+open space between it and the Castle, known as the Palace Green, we
+obtain a complete elevation of the whole structure. There is little room
+to doubt, though the details naturally vary with the date of erection,
+that the original plan of Carileph's church has been carried out in its
+entirety, with two exceptions. These are the addition of the eastern
+transept or nine altar chapel at the east, and the Galilee or Lady
+Chapel at the west end. The entire length of the building, not including
+the Galilee chapel, is 431 feet, which is made up as follows:--Nine
+altar chapel 51 feet, the choir 120 feet, the transept 57 feet, and the
+nave 203 feet.
+
+The #Western Towers# are square and solid, and were evidently
+included in Carileph's own scheme, as the wall arcades on both the
+interior and exterior are carried round them. The Norman work is
+continued as far as the nave roof, and it is extremely probable that
+they were originally terminated at this height, in accordance with the
+Norman custom, with low pyramidal spires, probably of wood. Exactly at
+what date they were raised is not on record, but the style of
+architecture of the upper portion suggests the early part of the
+thirteenth century. The added portion, namely that above the
+clerestory, consists of four stages, and is beautifully varied by
+moulded arcading, with blind and open arches. The first and third stages
+have pointed arches, while those of the second and fourth are round.
+Above this again were tall wooden spires covered with lead. These were
+removed about the year 1657, and towards the close of the eighteenth
+century the present pinnacles and open parapets were added. At this
+time, also, much of the surface of the towers was renewed.
+
+The #Central Tower.#--The present central tower is noble in
+proportion, and forms a fitting and harmonious summit to the whole
+group. It must needs be of a very different character from the old
+Norman tower, of which no trace now remains; and was most probably of
+the usual type, low and square, and surmounted by a short pyramidal
+spire. The existing structure may be attributed to Bishop Booth and
+Prior Richard Bell, about 1474, when the letter previously quoted was
+written. Externally the tower is divided into two storeys. The lower
+portion contains, on each side, a pair of two-light windows, glazed,
+each divided by a transom, and their heads having an ogee label
+crocketed and finished with a tall finial also crocketed. Between and on
+either side of these windows are panelled pilasters and brackets
+carrying figures. The lower and upper stages are divided by a narrow
+external gallery running round the tower, and protected by a pierced,
+embattled parapet. This is known as the Bell Ringers' Gallery, and
+certainly adds greatly to the effect of the tower as a whole. The upper
+stage, which is much less lofty, has also two two-light windows on each
+face, surmounted by crocketed ogee label mouldings and finials. These
+lights are louvred. The whole is surmounted by a deep open-work parapet.
+On each angle of the tower are two buttresses, which are decorated with
+panelling and canopied and crocketed niches containing figures. The
+interior of the tower or lantern is remarkable for the gallery which
+runs round it, which is reached from the roofs of the nave and choir
+transepts by doors. It rests on corbels, each alternate one being carved
+with grotesque heads, and is protected by a parapet pierced in
+quatrefoils. The four doorways are ogee-headed, with crockets and
+finials. There is strong evidence in the construction of the present
+tower that it was the original intention to surmount it by some other
+erection, probably a spire. Each interior angle contains strong and
+massive squinches which are of no constructive use at present, and must
+have been originally inserted to carry some superstructure. The
+buttresses at the angles are also carried up to the parapet, which would
+seem to point to the same conclusion. Why this project was never carried
+out cannot be said, but probably it would not have added to the artistic
+effect of the tower. The belfry contains a peal of eight bells.
+
+[Illustration: The Central Tower.]
+
+The #East Front.#--The circumstances which led to the removal of
+Carileph's apses and the erection of the eastern transept have
+already been referred to. The present east end is divided into three
+bays by massive buttresses, each of which contains three lofty lancet
+windows separated by smaller buttresses. Over all, and in the gable, is
+the famous large rose window. The north and south ends of the transept
+are finished with the tall pyramidal pinnacles erected by Wyatt.
+
+The #West Front# of Durham has, curiously enough, also lost its
+original character. The western doorway of the cathedral is hidden on
+the exterior by the Galilee or Lady Chapel, which was added by Pudsey in
+1175. Above the Galilee roof is the large window inserted about the year
+1346, while John Fossor was prior. The pointed arch of this window has
+over it, on the exterior, the original great semi-circular arch. Above
+this again, and between the two flanking western towers, is a small
+gable. The west end of the cathedral, when seen from the opposite side
+of the river, is extremely picturesque. The projecting mass of the
+Galilee, the western towers, the foreshortened nave roof, and the
+majestic central tower behind and above, form a group of high and rare
+excellence.
+
+The #North Door# is now the principal entrance to the cathedral.
+Externally the present porch is the work of Wyatt. The first porch was
+Norman, of four orders depth, with detached shafts in the recesses.
+Above this was a high-pitched gable and roof, the front being ornamented
+with a semi-circular-headed wall arcading. The inner side of the doorway
+is of two orders only, and is probably the only remaining portion of the
+original. The outer shaft is left plain, while the inner one, in each
+case, is most elaborately carved. The capitals are all carved, and the
+arch moulds richly ornamented with chevrons, foliage, and lozenges, as
+well as many curious figure subjects. While examining this doorway,
+notice should be taken of the ironwork of the door itself, and
+particularly of the sanctuary knocker. In mediæval times all churches
+afforded sanctuary to wrong-doers, but at places where the shrines of
+saints existed the sanctuary privileges were much greater. Durham being
+one of these, there are many curious cases on record of persons claiming
+the privilege, and protection from the secular law. The earliest
+instance, of which any record has been kept, of sanctuary being claimed
+at the shrine of S. Cuthbert is during the episcopate of Cynewulf, who
+was bishop from 740 to 748, and the last recorded was in 1524. Criminals
+claiming sanctuary were admitted by two janitors, who occupied two
+small chambers over the doorway, traces of which may still be observed.
+The knocker itself, as may be seen from the illustration, is a great
+grotesque head, made of bronze, and hanging from its grinning mouth is a
+ring. Originally, there is no doubt, the eyes were filled with crystals
+or enamel, as small claw-like pieces of bronze remain by which the
+filling was attached. The age of this piece of work is probably the same
+as that of the doorway itself.
+
+[Illustration: Detail Of Ironwork.]
+
+[Illustration: The Sanctuary Knocker.]
+
+[Illustration: Ironwork On Doors of Cloisters.]
+
+The #South Doorways.#--There are two doorways into the south aisle,
+one, known as the Monks' Door, opening from the western portion of the
+cloisters and immediately opposite the north porch just described. On
+the cloister side this shows a Norman arch resting on double shafts,
+which are enriched with a lozenge pattern. On the inner or aisle side
+there are two orders, with shafts in the recesses, which are also
+decorated with the lozenge. The inner arch is carved with chevrons, and
+the outer with conventional foliage and medallions. The capitals are
+richly carved with foliage and grotesques. On the abacus and arch of
+this doorway occurs a leaf pattern strongly suggesting the Byzantine
+influence which at one time was found in Norman decoration. Here again,
+on the door itself, we have a fine specimen of very elaborate and
+characteristic Norman iron-work. The second, known as the Priors' Door,
+opens into the south aisle from the eastern alley of the cloister, is
+also Norman. The outer or cloister side is of the time of Bishop Pudsey,
+and has an arch of four orders, with three shafts in the recesses on
+either side. Its once elaborate sculpture is now much decayed, not
+enough remaining to suggest that in its original state this doorway must
+have been a noble specimen of the architectural design of its period. On
+the inner side it exhibits work of Carileph's time, with an early arch,
+cushion capitals, and shafts.
+
+[Illustration: Ornament On South Doorway.]
+
+The #Western Doorway.#--The exterior of this great doorway is now within
+the Galilee chapel. It was built by Flambard (1099-1128), and is
+comparatively plain. On the Galilee side it consists of an arch of four
+orders ornamented with chevrons. The inner face is very similar to the
+outer, but is shallower, having only two orders. The shafts and capitals
+are without decoration, and the arch ornamented with chevron and a leaf
+pattern with medallions carved with grotesque animals. In order to
+reopen this doorway and make a carriage road up to it, Wyatt proposed
+pulling down the Galilee chapel.
+
+[Illustration: The Cloister.]
+
+The #Cloister# occupies a large open space, bounded on the south,
+east, and west by the various monastic buildings, and on the north by
+the cathedral itself. The existing cloister was commenced during the
+time of Bishop Skirlaw (1388 to 1406), and was completed by Cardinal
+Langley (who held the see from 1406 till 1438), probably in the earlier
+part of his episcopate. The contracts (the first dated 1398) for
+building the cloister are still preserved in the treasury. We are
+indebted to Bishop Skirlaw for their very existence, as it is recorded
+that he contributed sums of money for this purpose, both during his life
+and by his will. The cloister, as seen to-day, has been very much
+altered and restored, and probably the only original feature remaining
+is the fine oaken ceiling. This is panelled, and moulded, and decorated
+with shields, upon which are painted and gilded various coats of arms.
+In the centre of the cloister garth are the remains of what was the
+monks' lavatory. It was erected in the years 1432 and 1433, and was of
+octagonal shape. Some of the stone for its construction was brought from
+Egglestone-on-Tees, on payment of rent to the abbot of that place to
+quarry it. It is said to have had twenty-four brass spouts, seven
+windows, and in its upper storey a dovecote, the roof of which was
+covered with lead.
+
+There is no doubt that there was a cloister attached to the monastery in
+its early days, but of this no trace remains. It is also probable that
+one was erected by Bishop Pudsey, though this also has entirely
+vanished, unless (as suggested by Canon Greenwell) some marks of a
+lean-to roof on the north and east walls may be traces of its presence.
+In the western alley of the cloister is the old treasury, rich in
+records, and the vestries for canons, king's scholars, and choristers.
+The alley opens at the end into what is now called the crypt (see p.
+85). This was undoubtedly the common hall of the monks. It is a spacious
+stone-vaulted chamber. The columns are low and massive, with simple
+moulded caps, from which the chamfered vaulting ribs diverge. Over the
+hall or crypt is the dormitory, which for a long time formed part of a
+residence attached to one of the stalls. It is now, however, used as a
+library. It occupies the whole of the western side of the cloister, and
+is 194 feet long. It was originally subdivided, by wooden partitions,
+into separate sleeping-rooms for each monk. Its massive roof of oak is
+worthy of attention, the tree trunks being merely roughly squared with
+an axe (see p. 99).
+
+In the south alley was the refectory and the monks' common dining-hall.
+The original building is now entirely altered, though there remains
+beneath it a very early crypt, with plain, short square piers, and a
+simple quadripartite vault without ribs. Another portion is covered by a
+wagon-head vault. Whether the original refectory was of similar
+architectural character it is now impossible to say, as, whatever it may
+have been, it was removed early in the sixteenth century and rebuilt,
+and after the dissolution of the monastery was used by the Minor Canons
+of the church as a common hall. It seems to have fallen into a bad state
+of repair, and was again entirely reconstructed by Dean Sudbury
+(1661-1684), who was elected to that office immediately after the
+Restoration. He converted it into a library, to which use it is still
+put. The account of this building, given in the "Antiquities of Durham,"
+is of sufficient interest to bear quotation.
+
+    "In the _South_ Alley of the Cloysters," says our authority, "is a
+    large Hall, called the Frater-house, finely wainscotted on the
+    _North_ and _South_ sides; and in the _West_ and nether Part
+    thereof, is a long Bench of Stone in Mason-work, from the Cellar
+    Door to the Pantry or Cove Door: Above the Bench is Wainscot Work
+    two Yards and a Half high, finely carved, and set with imboss'd Work
+    in Wainscot, and gilded under the carved Work. Above the Wainscot
+    was a large Picture of our Saviour Christ, the blessed Virgin
+    _Mary_, and _S. John_, in fine gilt Work, and most excellent
+    Colours; which Pictures having been washed over with Lime did long
+    appear through it. This Wainscot had engraven on the Top of it,
+    _Thomas Castell_, Prior, Anno Domini, 1518 Mensis Julij. Whence it
+    is manifest that Prior _Castell_ wainscotted the Frater-house round
+    about.
+
+    "Within the Frater-house Door, on the Left Hand at entering, is a
+    strong Almery in the Wall, wherein a great Mazer, called the Grace
+    Cup, stood, which every day served the Monks after Grace, to drink
+    out of round the Table; which cup was finely edged about with
+    Silver, and double Gilt. In the same place were kept many large and
+    great Mazers of the same sort.... Every Monk had his Mazer severally
+    by himself to drink in, and had all other Things that served the
+    whole Convent, and the Frater-house in their daily Service, at their
+    Diet, and at their Table.... At these Times (at meals) the Master
+    observed these wholesom and godly Orders, for the continual
+    instruction of their Youth in Virtue and Learning; that is, one of
+    the Novices appointed by the Master, read some Part of the Old and
+    New Testament in Latin, during Dinner, having a convenient place at
+    the _South_ End of the High Table, within a beautiful Glass Window,
+    encompass'd with Iron, and certain Stone Steps, with Iron Rails to
+    go up to an Iron Desk, whereon lay the Holy Bible....
+
+    "This Fabrick retained the Name of the Petty Canons' Hall till _Dr
+    Sudbury_, Dean of the Cathedral, generously erected a beautiful
+    Library in its Place; but he not living to finish it compleatly, did
+    by (a clause) in his Last Will, bind his Heir, _Sir John Sudbury_,
+    to the due Execution thereof."
+
+[Illustration: S. Cuthbert's Chest.]
+
+The contents of the library are both numerous and interesting. There are
+several thousands of volumes, many of them being rare and valuable.
+Numerous ancient illuminated MSS., among which is a copy of the Gospels
+of S. Mark, S. Luke, and S. John, written before the year 700; and
+several books given by Bishops Carileph and Pudsey. Among the latter is
+a Bible, in four volumes, in its original stamped leather binding. A
+collection of ancient copes belonging to the cathedral, and the remains
+of the robes of S. Cuthbert, and other relics taken from his coffin when
+it was exhumed, in 1827, may also be seen here. Numerous specimens of
+Roman altars, tablets, and sculptured stones, from various Roman
+stations in Durham and Northumberland, notably from Hexham, are
+preserved in this library, which is open to the public on Tuesday and
+Friday in each week from eleven to one. The room is finely proportioned,
+and has a magnificent open timber roof.
+
+[Illustration: The Chapter-House.]
+
+The #Chapter-House# opens upon the eastern alley of the cloister. The
+present building is a very recent restoration of the original, which is
+acknowledged to have been the finest existing Norman chapter-house
+remaining in England. It was erected, or more probably completed, during
+the time of Bishop Galfrid Rufus (1133-1140), and was in existence until
+1796, during the episcopate of Bishop Barrington. At that time it was
+almost totally destroyed, on the advice of Wyatt, who reported to the
+chapter that it was in a ruinous state. The truth of this report is
+doubtful, but the partial demolition of the building was ordered in
+November 1795, and also the construction of a new room on the site. The
+work of destruction was begun by knocking out the keystones of the
+vaulting and allowing the roof to fall in. The eastern half of the
+building was then altogether removed, and the remaining portion enclosed
+by a wall. Its interior was faced with lath and plaster, a plaster
+ceiling and a boarded floor being added. Fortunately authentic records
+of its original appearance, both exterior and interior, are in
+existence. They are the drawings made for the Society of Antiquaries by
+John Carter in 1795. Its dimensions were 78 by 35 feet; the east end
+being apsidal and the roof a vault of one span. Round the wall of the
+interior ran a stone bench raised on two steps, which was surmounted,
+except at the west end, by a wall arcade, of round-headed intersecting
+arches, similar to that in the aisles of the cathedral, but with single
+instead of double shafts. Above the arcade was a string course carved
+with zig-zag ornament. The entrance was from the west end, and the east
+end was occupied by two seats, one for the bishop and one for the prior.
+In the apse were five three-light windows of the Decorated period, and
+above the western door a five-light Perpendicular window, which
+contained coloured glass, illustrating the "Root of Jesse." On either
+side of this was a window of two lights, divided by a shaft and enclosed
+under one arch, carved with chevron ornament. There was also a
+round-headed Norman window in each of the north and south walls. A
+doorway in the south wall led to three chambers, one larger, and two
+smaller, which are stated in the "Rites of Durham" to have been used as
+a prison for the monks. The chapter-house was used in early times as a
+burial-place for the bishops, and many of their graves with inscriptions
+were in existence previous to the demolition of 1796. During excavations
+in 1874, the graves of Bishops Flambard, Galfrid Rufus, S. Barbara, de
+Insula, and Kellaw were opened, when various rings and the head of a
+crozier were discovered and removed to the dean and chapter library.
+
+The chapter-house has now been entirely restored as a memorial to the
+late Bishop Lightfoot.
+
+The #Northern Alley# of the Cloister, running along the south wall of
+the church, contains little of interest, except the two doorways
+previously described.
+
+The effect of the cloister as a whole, in its original condition, with
+the windows glazed, many containing fine stained glass, the oak roof
+with its heraldry and colour, and the lavatory in the centre of the
+garth, must have been exceptionally fine.
+
+[Illustration: The Exterior, from the South-east.]
+
+A sculptured panel on the north-west turret of the Nine Altar Chapel is
+now known as the #Dun Cow#. The original sculpture was replaced in
+the last century by the existing panel, but the legend connected with it
+is interesting. After their flight from Chester-le-Street, the monks,
+bearing the body of S. Cuthbert, remained some time at Ripon. While
+trying to return to Chester-le-Street, at a place called Wardlaw, the
+coffin stuck fast, and remained absolutely fixed. A fast of three days
+was proclaimed and kept, when it was revealed to them that they were to
+carry their saint to Dunholme. Still they were in difficulties, not
+knowing where Dunholme was, but fortune, or Providence, again favoured
+them. A woman, who had lost a cow, passed, calling to a companion to
+inquire if she had seen the animal. The reply was that her cow was in
+Dunholme; and, to the relief of the monks, they and their precious
+charge soon safely arrived there. In grateful commemoration of the
+incident Flambard erected this monument of a milkmaid and her cow. (See
+p. 9.)
+
+The exterior of Durham Cathedral as a whole may at first sight be
+disappointing to the visitor. Seen from a near view there is a certain
+flatness of effect and want of light and shade which is, perhaps,
+slightly unpleasant. This is, however, largely attributable to the
+scaling and scraping process to which the building was subjected during
+the last century, when some inches of the outer surface of the stone,
+and with it much architectural detail, were removed. The result is the
+flatness previously alluded to, and a general newness of appearance
+pervades the structure. Seen, however, from a distance, where only the
+finely-grouped and proportioned masses of masonry, towers, and turrets
+stand against the sky, the result is magnificent, giving an impression
+of grandeur and dignity unsurpassed by any other English cathedral.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: The Nave, looking West.]
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+DESCRIPTION OF THE INTERIOR
+
+
+If the exterior of Durham is in any way disappointing, the interior more
+than compensates for its shortcomings. The general impression on
+entering the church is one of simple dignity and solemnity. The great
+massiveness of the structure and absence of elaborate ornament no doubt
+contribute to this feeling. The pious builders of old have certainly
+contrived to stamp on their work their own feeling of awe in the
+presence of the All-Powerful and Eternal God. Whatever has been lost
+through vandalism and the restorer, this remains unaltered. The general
+design of the church, exclusive of detail, which, of course, changed and
+developed with the progress of Gothic art, has undoubtedly been carried
+out on the plan intended by Bishop Carileph, the only important
+variation being the addition of the transept at the east end, known as
+the Nine Altars Chapel. The original plan consists of a nave and aisles,
+transepts with aisles on their eastern side, a choir also with aisles,
+and the three apses of the east end, with a central tower over the
+junction of transepts, nave, and choir, and towers flanking the west
+end.
+
+[Illustration: One Bay Of The Nave (Measured Drawing).]
+
+Each bay of the #Nave# is divided into two sub-bays. The main bays
+have massive piers with engaged shafts on the recessed faces. The bases
+of these are cruciform in plan, though the arms of the cross are very
+short. At the height of the springing of the arch the shafts are
+surmounted by plain cushion capitals. The division into sub-bays is
+effected by the introduction midway of a massive round column on a
+square base. These columns are ornamented in various ways, by channels
+cut on the face. Some take the form of a zig-zag, some a spiral, others
+a spiral in two directions, forming a trellis-like pattern, and others
+again are reeded vertically. Their capitals are octagonal cushions. The
+arches of the sub-bays are recessed square, with the usual Norman roll
+moulding, decorated with chevrons, and on the wall face a square billet.
+The chevron ornament is absent in the earlier work in the choir and
+transepts. The triforium is almost uniform throughout the whole church.
+In each sub-bay it consists of two small arches under one larger one,
+with the tympanum solid. Here also the capitals are cushions and
+perfectly plain.
+
+[Illustration: Triforium and Clerestory.]
+
+Above the triforium is the clerestory, which contains one light to each
+sub-bay, and surmounting all is the vaulting, which springs from the
+piers and from grotesquely carved corbels between the triforium arches.
+The vaulting ribs are ornamented with chevrons on either side of a bold
+semi-circular moulding. So much for the general arrangement of the bays.
+Some idea of the massiveness of the structures may be gathered when it
+is known that each group of the clustered pillars separating the bays
+covers an area of two hundred and twenty-five square feet at its base,
+while those of the cylindrical columns of the sub-bays are twelve feet
+square, and the columns themselves have a circumference of over
+twenty-three feet. There is little room to doubt that the effect
+obtained by the old builders of Durham was intentional. The masterly way
+in which great masses of solid masonry, greater than was constructively
+necessary, are handled, and the reticence and delicacy of the ornament
+combine to prove this. There is in the whole scheme a delightful union
+of great power and vigour in the masses, and of tenderness and loving
+care in the detail.
+
+The #Choir# is the earliest part of the church. Its two western bays
+show Carileph's work, but the eastern piers have been considerably
+altered owing to the addition at a later period of the eastern transept,
+when Carileph's apses were taken down. This bay contains some very rich
+and beautiful detail. The piers on either side of the choir are
+decorated with arcades, the lower stage having six arches, and the upper
+three, all richly carved with foliage in the caps and hood moulds, and
+with heads and half figures. There is also a square aumbry on each pier.
+Above the upper arcade, which breaks through the level of the triforium
+string course, which is also carried round it, there is on each pier a
+figure of an angel beneath a canopy. These are the only two figures
+remaining of many which formerly added to the beauty of the interior of
+the church. The vaulting of the choir is thirteenth-century work,
+quadripartite, the ribs decorated with dog-tooth ornament and square
+leaves, and has fine bosses at the intersections of the diagonal ribs.
+The choir of Durham is especially interesting to the student of
+architecture, showing as it does the Early Norman work of Carileph,
+combined with the Early English and Early Decorated work of the newer
+eastern portion.
+
+On the south side of the choir stands the monument of Bishop Hatfield,
+who directed the see of Durham from 1345 until 1381. This monument is
+beneath the Episcopal Throne, which was erected by Bishop Hatfield
+himself. It consists of an altar tomb surmounted by a recumbent effigy
+of the bishop, in richly-worked robes, beneath a canopy, richly groined,
+with foliated bosses at the intersections of the ribs. On the walls at
+the east and west ends may still be seen the remains of fresco painting,
+representing in each case two angels. Beneath the staircase leading up
+to the throne is a very fine decorated arcade, containing several
+shields bearing the bishop's and other arms. The whole structure was
+originally richly coloured and gilded, and remains of this work can
+still be made out. It is a noble specimen of the work of its date.
+
+Immediately opposite the tomb of Bishop Hatfield, on the north side of
+the choir, the visitor will notice the recently-erected memorial to the
+late Bishop Lightfoot. This is an altar tomb of black and coloured
+marble. The sides are ornamented with panels of Perpendicular tracery
+containing shields. Round the upper mouldings runs a Latin inscription
+in brass. The whole is surmounted by a recumbent figure of the bishop in
+white marble, his hands on his breast, and his feet resting against
+three books. Originally designed by Sir Edgar Boehm, R.A., at his death
+the monument was completed by Alfred Gilbert, R.A.
+
+The beautiful altar screen is usually known as the #Neville Screen,#
+and was erected about the year 1380, mainly from moneys supplied by
+John, Lord Neville of Raby. It spans the whole of the choir, and is
+continued along the sides of the sacrarium, forming sedilia of four
+seats on either side. It is pierced by two doors, which lead to the
+shrine of S. Cuthbert, immediately behind the screen. Though very light
+and graceful in appearance, the screen, as it is at present, can give
+the beholder little idea of what its appearance must have been when
+each of its canopied niches contained a figure aglow with gold and
+colour. There were originally 107 of these statues, the centre one
+representing Our Lady, supported on either side by S. Cuthbert and S.
+Oswald. Unfortunately none of the figures remain _in situ_.
+
+Immediately in front of the steps of the high altar will be seen the
+matrix of a large brass. It covers the grave of Ludovick de Bellomonte,
+Bishop of Durham from 1318 to 1333. The slab, which is in two pieces,
+measures fifteen feet ten inches by nine feet seven inches, and an
+examination will show the brass to have been an elaborate and sumptuous
+composition. Unfortunately all the metal work has disappeared.
+
+The #Stalls,# as they originally existed, were destroyed in 1650 by
+the Scottish prisoners, who were kept in the cathedral after the battle
+of Dunbar. The present stalls we owe to Bishop Cosin (1660 to 1672), and
+they are remarkable pieces of carving for that date. In general
+character they imitate Perpendicular work, though the details do not
+adhere altogether to that style.
+
+Before leaving this part of the church a note may be devoted to the
+alterations and additions made during the years 1870 to 1876. A new
+screen between the nave and choir was then erected; the choir floor
+relaid with marble mosaic; the stalls replaced in their old positions,
+and new portions made to replace those destroyed in 1846. A new organ,
+pulpit, and lectern were also added.
+
+The new #Choir Screen# is very much open to criticism. Though no
+doubt beautiful in detail, and of excellent workmanship, its effect, as
+a whole, is not pleasant, when seen from the west end silhouetted
+against the light of the choir. A screen previously existed in this
+position erected by Bishop Cosin. This was removed in 1846, with the
+idea of improving the appearance of the church from the west end by
+obtaining a "vista" through to the Neville screen and rose window of the
+eastern transept. The effect seems, however, to have been disappointing,
+hence the erection of the present screen, which may or may not have
+improved matters. In the two western piers of the choir holes may be
+seen cut in the stonework. These received the rood-beam from which,
+during Lent, the Lenten curtain was suspended.
+
+[Illustration: The Choir, looking West.]
+
+The #North Aisle of the Choir,# again, shows the joining and
+harmonising of the "new work" of the eastern transept with the earlier
+Norman work. Inside the church the most easterly bay appears to be
+altogether of Early English date; but on the exterior it will be seen
+that the Norman wall runs right up to the western wall of the eastern
+transept. The interior of the bay, however, is enriched with a wall
+arcade similar to that in the Nine Altars Chapel, and the arch and vault
+are decorated with foliage and dog-tooth ornament.
+
+Along the side wall of this aisle runs a stone bench bearing the arms of
+Bishop Walter de Skirlaw (1388 to 1405), near which he was buried, but
+his monument and brass, erected by himself, have disappeared.
+
+Slightly westward of the bench is a doorway which at one time opened
+into the Sacrist's Exchequer, erected by Prior Wessington, but it has
+long ago been destroyed.
+
+The piers of the west end of this aisle bear marks which were originally
+holes cut in the stone. These served to support a porch, having a rood
+and altar, which is thus described in the "Rites of Durham":
+
+    "Right over the Entrance of this North Alleye, going to the Songe
+    Scoole (the Exchequer mentioned above) there was a porch adjoyninge
+    to the quire on the South, and S. Benedick's altar on the North, the
+    porch having in it an altar, and the roode or picture of our
+    Saviour, which altar and roode was much frequented in devotion by
+    Docteur Swalwell, sometime monk of Durham, the said roode havinge
+    marveilous sumptuous furniture for festivall dayes belonginge to
+    it."
+
+The #South Aisle Of the Choir# is similar architecturally to the
+north aisle. Here may be seen a doorway, of late thirteenth-century
+work, which originally led to the revestry, now destroyed.
+
+Here again the eastern piers bear marks left by holes in the stonework,
+which originally earned the supports of a screen, in front of which the
+Black Rood of Scotland, which was taken from King David at the battle of
+Neville's Cross (1346), was placed. The rood is described as having been
+brought from Holyrood by David Bruce, and was made of silver, with
+effigies of our Saviour, S. John, and Our Lady, having crowns of gold on
+their heads. The Black Rood was restored to its original possessors at
+the close of the war.
+
+The windows of both the choir aisles originally contained very fine old
+stained glass, representing various saints, and scenes in the life of S.
+Cuthbert.
+
+The #Transepts.#--Leaving the choir by its western end the visitor at
+once enters the transepts. A large portion of these, including the great
+piers and arches which carry the central tower, are, without doubt, of
+the time of Carileph. The eastern side of both is certainly his work,
+while the western is probably the building which was carried on by the
+monks in the interval between Carileph's death, in 1096, and the
+appointment of Flambard to the see in 1099. The work on the eastern
+sides differs little from that of the choir, while that of the western
+sides, being plainer, has been thought by some to indicate a want of
+means on the part of the monks, while carrying on the work in the
+interval just alluded to. Each transept consists of two bays, with an
+aisle on the eastern side, access to which is gained by the ascent of
+three steps.
+
+Each of the three sub-bays nearest the north and south extremities
+originally contained an altar, those in the north transept being
+dedicated to S. Nicholas and S. Giles, S. Gregory and S. Benedict. Over
+the site of the latter may still be seen remains of fresco painting. The
+altars in the south transept were dedicated--one to S. Faith and S.
+Thomas the Apostle, one to our Lady of Bolton and the other to our Lady
+of Houghall. The north transept is closed by a large window, which is
+the work of Prior Fossor, probably about the year 1362. The window is of
+six lights, and the head contains late geometrical tracery. The
+architectural feature of this window, especially for its date, is the
+transom which crosses the mullions, and which is not visible from the
+exterior. Below the transom is a second inner set of mullions supporting
+a small gallery, by means of which access may be had to the triforium.
+In the year 1512 the window was repaired by Prior Castell, who filled it
+with stained glass containing large figures, among others of S.
+Augustine, S. Ambrose, S. Gregory, and S. Jerome. From this circumstance
+the window became known as the window of the Four Doctors of the Church.
+Prior Castell also contrived to introduce a figure of himself kneeling
+at the feet of the Virgin. The large window at the end of the south
+transept, also named from the glass it contained, the _Te Deum_ window,
+is in the Perpendicular style, and is of six lights. It may possibly
+have been the work of Prior Wessington, 1416 to 1446. Along the sill of
+this window also access may be had to the triforium.
+
+[Illustration: The Transepts, looking North.]
+
+Both the north-west and south-west corners of the transepts contain
+stairways, opening at their various levels on to the triforium,
+clerestory, and the space between the vaulting and the roof. That in the
+south transept also gives access to the central tower and belfry, an
+ascent of which, if the day be clear, will repay the visitor for his
+fatiguing climb of three hundred and forty steps by the magnificent view
+spread at his feet. The transepts were no doubt the earliest part of the
+building to be vaulted; that of the northern arm being plain is probably
+the earlier, while that of the south arm, though of similar character,
+has zig-zag ornaments. Several of the priors of Durham were buried in
+the transepts, the first, Prior Fossor, 1364, and the last, Robert
+Ebchester, who died in 1484.
+
+On the piers of the transepts projecting brackets may be noticed. These
+are of Perpendicular date, and originally carried statues.
+
+The crossing, or space between the four piers supporting the central
+tower, gives us a fine view of the interior of the lantern.
+
+The #Tower# is carried on four large clustered Norman piers with
+semi-circular arches. Over the arches, and seventy-seven feet above the
+floor of the church, is the lower stage of the lantern, round which is a
+gallery with an open pierced parapet. It rests on corbels, each
+alternate one being carved with a grotesque head. The walls are panelled
+up to the base of the great windows,--each panel having two cinquefoiled
+arches under a crocketed canopy and final; while between them are small
+buttresses, also panelled, and ending in a finial which reaches the same
+height as the canopy. Over the panelling is a string course ornamented
+with that characteristic ornament of the Perpendicular period, the Tudor
+flower, and above this on each face two tall windows near together. Each
+window has two lights, and is divided by a transom. The roof of the
+lantern is groined, with fine bosses at the intersections of the ribs.
+The whole seen from below has a very fine effect, and must be very
+different in appearance from the original Norman structure. The whole of
+the lantern was refaced, and the statues which had been removed from
+their niches were replaced, some thirty years ago, by the Dean and
+Chapter of Durham.
+
+[Illustration: Corbel in Choir.]
+
+The #Norman East End.#--The original form of the Norman east end has
+long been the subject of discussion and conjecture. It was practically
+safe to assume that the choir ended in an apse, though whether the
+aisles were also apsidal, or continued round a great apse as an
+ambulatory, was a debatable point. This question has now been finally
+settled.
+
+[Illustration: The Choir, looking East.] During some operations
+necessitating the opening of the floor, in January 1895, certain
+indications were found which led the diocesan architect, Mr C.H. Fowler,
+and Canon Greenwell to continue the excavation. The result was the
+discovery that Carileph's church certainly possessed three apses--a
+large one terminating the choir, and smaller ones the aisles. The apses
+of the aisles were square externally, and apsidal internally. The great
+apse consisted of five bays, one on either side next to the choir,
+forming an oblong between the choir and the springing line of the curve
+of the apse, over which would be the great sanctuary arch. The
+remainder, or apse proper, was divided into three bays by engaged
+clustered shafts, similar to those of the choir and nave. It was
+surrounded by a wall arcade of the same character as that of the rest of
+the church. The base of one of the shafts of the arcade was found in
+position. An extremely interesting point in this discovery is the fact
+that the levels are the same as those of the nave and choir. The
+foundations are on the rock at the same depth, and the aisle walls and
+apse walls are in the same line. The external square line of the aisle
+apses is in line with the springing of the choir apse. The foundations
+of the apse to the north aisle have been thoroughly excavated, and there
+is every reason to believe that that on the south side of the church
+entirely corresponds. The width of the north aisle apse from north to
+south is nine feet eight inches. There can be little doubt, judging from
+the remainder of Carileph's work, that all three apses were covered with
+stone vaults, though of precisely what character can only be a matter of
+conjecture. The cracking, previously spoken of, which led to this part
+of the church being taken down and the new eastern transept being
+erected, cannot have arisen from any subsidence of the foundations. It,
+in all probability, was the result of the thrust of the apse vaults on
+to walls which were insufficiently buttressed. The marks on some of the
+stones found during this excavation, and the shape of others, seem to
+point to the conclusion that here we have the earliest part of the
+church, and that Carileph used up in his foundations much of the stone
+of Aldhun's White Church.
+
+Of the two usual eastern endings to Norman churches--viz. those with
+three apses, and those having the aisle carried round as an
+ambulatory--the latter is far more common in England, and the former on
+the Continent. There are two other notable instances of the three
+apsidal arrangement in England: S. Albans, 1077, which is earlier than
+Durham; and Peterboro', 1117, which is later than, and was probably
+modelled on, Durham. There are many examples of ambulatories--the White
+Tower Church (London), Winchester, Gloucester, Worcester, and Norwich
+being among them.
+
+[Illustration: Corbel in Choir.]
+
+The apses of Durham are of considerable depth from east to west, the
+oblong bay previously mentioned, which is fourteen feet wide in that
+direction, adding greatly to this effect. The width of the foundations
+is fourteen feet, and the width of the wall has been seven feet. The
+diameter of the choir apse from north to south was about thirty-two
+feet.
+
+[Illustration: Plan of Norman East End.]
+
+These discoveries are specially interesting, completing as they do the
+whole chain, and leading us with very little imagination to see in its
+original condition what must have been, and may even now claim to be,
+the most noble example of Norman architecture in our country.
+
+[Illustration: Triforium of Nave and Choir.]
+
+[Illustration: Capital in the Nine Altars Chapel.]
+
+The #Nine Altars Chapel.#--Leaving the consideration of what once
+occupied the site of the east end of Durham, we will turn our attention
+to the beautiful erection which now stands there, the eastern transept,
+or, as it is named from the altars of the saints it once contained
+beneath its windows, the Chapel of the Nine Altars. It is approached
+from the aisles by steps, the floor level being lower than that of the
+church proper. It is altogether a remarkable and interesting structure.
+With its lightness and loftiness contrasting grandly with the massive
+Norman nave and choir, its clustered columns of polished marble
+alternating with stone, its fine bold sculpture, its splendid vaulted
+roof and rich arcading, it forms a perfect example of the Early English
+style. Though regular and symmetrical in general design, the detail
+shows great variety, and even irregularity, a quality so often present
+in old work, and so much to its advantage. In general character it may
+be compared with that at Fountains Abbey, which was built during the
+same time.
+
+[Illustration: Capital in the Nine Altars Chapel.]
+
+The circumstances leading to its erection have been already referred to.
+The Norman apses having been partly removed, owing to their dangerous
+condition, the "New Work," as it was always called, was commenced in the
+year 1242. The eastern wall, with its rose and nine lancet windows, is
+the earliest part of the chapel, the north and south walls being later.
+The joining and blending of the work with the Norman of Carileph's choir
+had evidently been accomplished when the chapel was almost completed.
+The eastern wall is of three bays, each bay having three lofty lancet
+windows. The bays are not of equal width, the centre one being regulated
+by the width of the nave of the church, and narrower than the north and
+south bays.
+
+[Illustration: Sections of Hood and Arch Mouldings.]
+
+A very beautiful arcade runs completely round the walls. It is of
+trefoil arches, deeply and richly moulded, supported on marble columns
+carved with foliage. Over the arches is a hood mould terminating with
+heads. In the spandrels are a series of deeply-sunk and moulded
+quatrefoils, two of which contain sculpture. The bases of the columns
+rest on a plinth. Surmounting this arcade is a moulded string, from the
+level of which rise the windows, and above the windows another string
+course and a second range of windows. In the centre bay, however, is
+the large rose window, which is over thirty feet in diameter.
+
+[Illustration: The Nine Altars Chapel.]
+
+The division of the chapel into three bays is effected by two main
+vaulting arches, which spring on the western side from the piers of the
+east end of the choir, and on the eastern side from responds of
+clustered shafts alternately of marble and stone, banded at intervals
+and having richly carved capitals. The arches themselves are deeply
+moulded and ornamented with dog-tooth ornament and foliage. The vault of
+the central bay has eight ribs--two springing from each of the clusters
+just described, and two from each of the choir piers. The vaulting of
+the remaining bays is quadripartite, but has peculiarities which are
+worthy of notice, arising from inequality of width. We must not omit to
+call attention to the exquisite sculpture of the vaulting. The centre
+has figures of the Four Evangelists, while in the north is a beautifully
+executed carving of vine and grapes, and in the south, figure subjects.
+Among the sculptured heads on the wall arcade at the south end, at the
+western side of the two bays into which the south wall is divided, are
+two which are portraits of the men to whom we owe the design and
+execution of the beautiful sculpture of this chapel. One is an elderly
+man, the other much younger, and both wear linen dust-caps over their
+heads.
+
+The nine lancet windows were originally filled with ancient stained
+glass, which, as the reader will remember, was removed, Below each
+window was an altar. They were dedicated a follows, beginning at the
+south end of the chapel:--
+
+  1. S. Andrew and S. Mary Magdalene.          \
+  2. S. John the Baptist and S. Margaret.       > South bay.
+  3. S. Thomas of Canterbury and S. Catherine. /
+
+  4. S. Oswald and S. Lawrence.                \
+  5. S. Cuthbert and S. Bede.                   > Middle bay.
+  6. S. Martin.                                /
+
+  7. S. Peter and S. Paul.                     \
+  8. S. Aidan and S. Helen.                     > North bay.
+  9. S. Michael the Archangel.                 /
+
+The rose window over the lancets of the middle bay is Wyatt's
+"restoration" of the original one. It consists of an outer circle of
+twenty-four and an inner circle of twelve radiating lights, the mullions
+of which are received on a foliated circle in the centre.
+
+In the north wall of the chapel is a very fine window, known as the
+Joseph window, on account of the stained glass it originally contained,
+which illustrated the life-history of Joseph. It is a beautiful example
+of Early Decorated or geometrical Gothic, and is of six lights. There is
+an inner plane of tracery resting on clustered shafts, which is
+connected to the mullions of the window proper by through stones. The
+window occupies the complete width of the north end of the chapel. The
+painted glass which it once contained is thus described in the "Rites of
+Durham":
+
+    "In the North Alley of the said Nine Altars, there is another goodly
+    faire great glass window, called Joseph's Window, the which hath in
+    it all the whole storye of Joseph, most artificially wrought in
+    pictures in fine coloured glass, accordinge as it is sett forth in
+    the Bible, verye good and godly to the beholders thereof."
+
+This window deserves the attention of the architectural student, as it
+is an exceedingly fine specimen of the tracery of its date.
+
+The south wall of the chapel contains two windows, each divided by a
+central mullion, and having an inner mullion connected by through
+stones. They are widely splayed inwards, and separated by a group of
+vaulting shafts. One or both of these windows contained stained glass,
+with the history of the life and miracles of S. Cuthbert. As seen at
+present, they contain tracery of the Perpendicular period, a restoration
+of that inserted by Prior Wessington. Each window is of two lights,
+crossed by a transom. Entry to the nine altars was provided for, as well
+as from the choir and aisles, by two doors on the western side of its
+north and south walls. The northern doorway is now walled up. They enter
+through the wall arcade. The writer of the "Rites of Durham" says the
+north door was made in order to bring in the body of Bishop Anthony Bek,
+who is buried in the chapel. The architectural features of the doorway
+would, however, seem to contradict this theory, and there is little room
+to doubt that both north and south doorways formed part of the original
+design of the structure.
+
+Before leaving this interesting portion of the building we must direct
+our attention to its most important contents, the #Tomb of S.
+Cuthbert#. This, as at present to be seen, is a great oblong
+platform, thirty-seven feet long by twenty-three feet wide, and its
+upper surface or floor six feet above the floor of the chapel. Beneath a
+slab in the centre the bones of the patron saint rest. The shrine of S.
+Cuthbert at one time stood upon this platform, but of that no vestige
+remains.
+
+The floor of the platform is reached by two doors through the Neville
+screen in the choir, and by a small stairway from the south aisle. The
+wanderings of the monks of Lindisfarne with the body of their saint,
+their many difficulties and trials, and their ultimate settlement at
+Dunholme or Durham, have already been described. The shrine was
+eventually set up in its present position by Bishop Carileph, in 1104,
+when he brought it from the cloister garth from the tomb he had there
+set up for its temporary reception, until his church was sufficiently
+advanced to permit of its removal thither. It was visited by large
+numbers of pilgrims, and many important personages were among them. Of
+these may be mentioned William the Conqueror, Henry III. (1255), Edward
+II. (1322), and Henry VI. (1448). The shrine was destroyed soon after
+the surrender of the monastery to the Crown, in 1540, when the body was
+buried beneath the place where its former receptacle had stood. There
+have since this time been traditions that the exact place of the burial
+was secret, and known only, according to one account, to three
+Benedictine monks, who each handed the secret down to a successor. The
+other tradition places the knowledge of the place of burial in the hands
+of the Roman Catholic bishops of the Northern Province. One of these
+traditions was made public in the year 1867, and gave the place of
+interment as being under the second and third steps leading to the tower
+from the south transept. This place was excavated and examined, but no
+trace of any burial could be found there. It is to these traditions
+that Scott refers, in _Marmion_, in the following lines:--
+
+  Chester-le-Street, and Ripon saw
+  His holy corpse, ere Wardilaw
+      Hailed him with joy and fear;
+  And after many wanderings past,
+  He chose his lordly seat at last,
+  Where his cathedral, huge and vast,
+      Looks down upon the Wear.
+  There deep in Durham's Gothic shade
+  His relics are in secret laid;
+      But none may know the place,
+  Save of his holiest servants three,
+  Deep sworn to solemn secrecy,
+      Who share that wondrous grace.
+
+In May 1827 the grave in the Nine Altars Chapel was opened in the
+presence of two of the church dignitaries and other persons. Dr Raine,
+who was also present, has left a careful account of the discoveries then
+made.[3] The outer coffin, that made in 1542, was first removed,
+revealing a second and much decayed coffin and many bones. After the
+removal of these relics the lid of a third oak coffin was revealed, in a
+very advanced state of decay. This innermost coffin was covered over its
+entire surface with carvings of human figures, the heads surrounded by a
+nimbus. When this coffin was removed the skeleton was exposed to view,
+wrapped in coverings, the outer of which had been of linen. The robes
+beneath were much decayed, and only portions of them could be preserved.
+On the breast of the body, among the robes, a comb was found, answering
+exactly to that described by Reginald in 1104. Among the most
+interesting of the finds were a stole and maniple.
+
+  [3] Raine. S. Cuthbert.
+
+The stole is of very early date, and is of needlework in colours and
+gold. The centre design is a quatrefoil, inside which is a lamb with
+nimbus, and the letters AGNV DI. On either side are figures of Old
+Testament prophets, with their names. Near the ends the embroidery
+occurs on both sides of the stole, on the back of one of which among
+foliage is the inscription AELFFLAED FIERI PRECEPIT, which is continued
+on the back of the opposite end, thus--PIO EPISCOPO FRIDESTANO. The
+translation of this inscription is to the effect that Aelfled commanded
+the stole to be made for the pious Bishop Frithestan. The maniple is of
+a similar character, and also bears ornament, figures, and
+inscriptions.[4] Frithestan was made Bishop of Winchester in 905.
+Aelfled, who was Queen of Eadward, the son and successor of Alfred, died
+in 916. It was therefore during these ten years that she caused this
+stole and maniple to be made for the Bishop Frithestan. It is recorded
+that the son and successor of Eadward, by name Athelstan, when on a
+journey in the north visited Chester-le-Street and the shrine of S.
+Cuthbert, which was then at that place. Among other presents he left as
+offerings a stole and maniple, and a girdle and two bracelets of gold.
+It is a curious fact that a girdle and two gold bracelets were found
+along with the stole and maniple in the grave, in 1827, and leaves very
+little doubt that they are the ones mentioned above. The bones of the
+saint were quite intact, and none were missing. They were, with the
+other relics, placed in a new coffin, and the grave re-covered. Some
+portions of the inner coffin, with the stole, two maniples, the girdle
+and bracelets and fragments of the robes are now carefully preserved in
+the Dean and Chapter Library. A large gold cross found among the robes,
+decorated with garnets, and of workmanship of the time of S. Cuthbert is
+also preserved in the library. These discoveries seem to speak for
+themselves, and to leave very little room for doubt that the body
+exhumed and examined in 1827 was really that of the patron saint of the
+church.
+
+  [4] Photographs, coloured by the late J.I. Williamson, are
+      exhibited in the South Kensington Museum.
+
+There were also found in the grave bones of infants, supposed to be
+relics of the Holy Innocents, and a skull, most probably that of S.
+Oswald, which was known to have been placed in the coffin of S.
+Cuthbert.
+
+Two smooth grooves may be observed on the platform, which are _said_ to
+have been worn into the stone by the knees or feet of generations of
+pilgrims visiting the shrine.
+
+There are several other tombs and monuments in this chapel, chiefly wall
+tablets of not exceptional interest. At the north end, however, is a
+colossal statue of the last of the prince bishops, Bishop van Mildert,
+who died in 1836. The monument is of white marble, the figure seated on
+a throne and holding a book. It was erected by public subscription, the
+sculptor being John Gibson, R.A. Near this monument is a blue slab
+covering the remains of Bishop Anthony Bek, patriarch of Jerusalem, who
+died in 1310. It was to bring in the body of this bishop that some
+writers have thought the north doorway of the Nine Altars Chapel was
+constructed. This is, as we have seen already, extremely improbable.
+
+The student of architecture will find very much to interest him in this
+Chapel of the Nine Altars. The beautiful sculpture and variety in the
+capitals of the shafts of wall arcading, not to mention the rich carving
+of the vaulting bosses and capitals of the vaulting shafts, will well
+repay his earnest study.
+
+[Illustration: The Galilee Chapel.]
+
+[Illustration: The Galilee Chapel.]
+
+[Illustration: Capital in Galilee Chapel.]
+
+The #Galilee# or #Lady Chapel# is situated at the west end of the
+nave. It is well known that for some reason women were not allowed to
+enter any church where S. Cuthbert's shrine stood, nor even any church
+dedicated to him. At Lindisfarne a separate church was provided for
+them, and at Durham the Galilee Chapel was added for the same purpose.
+It was alleged that S. Cuthbert himself had made this rule, but there is
+no proof that he ever issued such a command. The Venerable Bede makes
+no mention of any special feeling of antipathy to women on the part of
+the saint. Bede was contemporary with, and survived S. Cuthbert
+forty-eight years. Whatever may have been the origin of the practice, it
+is certain that in later times women were jealously excluded from the
+churches of S. Cuthbert, and to this circumstance we owe, in the chapel
+under our consideration, the most beautiful and perfect example of
+Transitional Norman architecture existing in England.
+
+[Illustration: Paintings in the Galilee Chapel.]
+
+Let us recall briefly the circumstances attending its erection. Hugh
+Pudsey, who occupied the episcopal throne, 1153 to 1195, commenced to
+build a Lady Chapel at the east end of the church. The work had not gone
+far before accidents happened, and cracks and fissures appeared in the
+walls, which the builder thought "gave manifest indication that it was
+not acceptable to God and His servant S. Cuthbert."[5] The work was
+therefore abandoned, and another chapel was commenced at the west end of
+the church, "into which women might lawfully enter, so that they who had
+not bodily access to the secret things of the holy place, might have
+some solace from the contemplation of them" (Geoffrey de Coldingham).
+Pudsey caused to be moved here the marble shafts and bases he had
+previously brought from "beyond the sea," and intended to be used in the
+construction of his chapel at the east end. Entering the chapel by the
+steps leading from the Norman nave, the visitor is at once impressed
+with the lightness and delicacy of the work before him, as compared with
+the massive grandeur of the Norman cathedral behind. Here we have, in
+fact, one of the latest uses of the round arch influenced by the rapidly
+developing Early English Gothic. In plan the chapel consists of a nave
+with double aisles, which perhaps might be more properly called five
+aisles. These are divided by arcades, each of which is of four bays.
+These arches and the columns which support them are the chief beauty and
+characteristic of the chapel. The arches are semi-circular, of one
+order, with three lines of chevron, one on each face, and one on the
+soffit between two roll mouldings. The capitals are light and graceful
+and carved with a volute, and the columns clusters of marble and
+freestone shafts. The arches, however, rest on the marble columns, which
+are, no doubt, those previously alluded to. The whole seems to have been
+coloured in fresco, and remains of this are still to be seen. The stone
+shafts, which alternate with those of marble, do not carry any of the
+weight of the arch, and are, undoubtedly, an addition, probably in the
+time of Cardinal Langley, when they must have been added, with a view
+to improving the appearance. The dimensions of the chapel are
+forty-seven feet from east to west, and seventy-six feet from north to
+south. The existing roof and the three perpendicular windows on the west
+end are also additions by Cardinal Langley. On the walls above what were
+once the altars of the Virgin and Our Lady of Pity, remains of fresco
+painting may be noticed, all that remains of what has evidently been
+beautiful work. These were only brought to light by the removal of
+successive coats of whitewash with which they had been covered.
+
+  [5] Geoffrey de Coldingham.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Galilee Chapel.]
+
+When the Galilee was erected, access from the church was by the great
+west door of the cathedral. This was, however, closed up by Cardinal
+Langley, who constructed the two doorways at the end of the aisles by
+which the chapel is now entered. Those portions of the Norman wall
+arcading, which had to be removed by reason of the breaking through of
+the new doorways, were used to fill up the lower part of the great west
+door. The latter was again removed in 1846, when the west doorway was
+re-opened. Langley's two doorways have four centred arches enclosed
+beneath a square label moulding, with shields bearing the Cardinal's
+coat-of-arms in each spandrel. To Langley also may be attributed the
+five massive buttresses on the exterior of the western wall of the
+chapel, which partly cover the arcading and panelling with which it was
+decorated. In adding the new roof Langley raised the walls above the
+arches to carry it, giving a somewhat peculiar effect to the interior.
+The original roof lines can still be made out on the west wall. Of the
+contents of the chapel remaining, perhaps the most interesting to the
+visitor is the grave and site of the shrine of the Venerable Bede. The
+shrine, like that of S. Cuthbert's, is gone, and all that remains is the
+stone slab on which it once stood, and which bears the inscription
+(placed there in 1831):
+
+    Hac sunt in Fossa
+    Bædæ Venerabilis Ossa
+
+This remarkable man was contemporary with S. Cuthbert, whom, as we have
+said, he survived forty-eight years. His holiness and piety, together
+with his great learning, earned for him the title Venerable, and after
+his death, in 735, his bones were enshrined. Of his parentage we know
+nothing, except that, from his own writings, he was born in the
+territory of the Abbey of Wearmouth. At the age of seven he was being
+educated in that monastery, and by the time he was ten years old he
+moved to the newly-founded Abbey on the Tyne, at Jarrow. He had able and
+learned teachers in Benedict Bishop and Ceolfrid, and appears to have
+turned his advantages to the best account. Deacon at nineteen, and
+priest at twenty-nine years of age, he led a holy and studious life.
+After his ordination he wrote his "Commentaries on the Scriptures," and
+writings on all the known sciences--geography, arithmetic, and
+astronomy. The greatest work of his life is, however, his
+"Ecclesiastical History of the English Nation," to which we owe all our
+knowledge of the introduction of Christianity into Great Britain, and
+the early history of the English Church. It is dedicated to King
+Ceolwulf. His information was collected from various sources--by letter
+as to Canterbury, by communication with bishops and priors as to England
+generally, and from personal knowledge and very recent tradition as to
+Northumbria. He lived most of his long life between the monasteries of
+Monkwearmouth and Jarrow, and was buried at the latter. In the year 1022
+his remains were secretly removed from Jarrow by Elfrid, who was the
+most unscrupulous relic-hunter of that time, who deposited a portion of
+them in the same coffin with those of S. Cuthbert. From here they were
+removed by Bishop Pudsey, and placed in the newly-erected Galilee
+Chapel, where he caused them to be enclosed in a magnificent shrine.
+"There, in a silver casket gilt with gold, hee laid the bones of
+Venerable Bede, and erected a costly and magnificent shrine over it."[6]
+When the shrine was destroyed at the suppression of the monastery, in
+1542, the bones were interred beneath the place it occupied, where they
+remained undisturbed till the year 1831. In that year they were exhumed
+and examined, and, after being enclosed in a lead-lined coffin, were
+replaced in the tomb, with a parchment giving full details of the
+exhumation. Some coins and a ring which were found at this time are
+preserved in the Dean and Chapter Library. The inscription previously
+quoted was then cut on the upper slab of the tomb.
+
+  [6] "Rites of Durham."
+
+In the Galilee Chapel is also the tomb of its restorer, Cardinal
+Langley, which was erected by himself in front of the principal altar.
+On its head may be seen three shields bearing the arms of the cardinal.
+
+Four of the western windows of the chapel originally contained beautiful
+stained glass, a most careful description of which may be found in the
+"Rites of Durham."
+
+Why this chapel has always been known as the "Galilee" Chapel has been
+the subject of much discussion and conjecture, and is still a matter of
+uncertainty. That it was erected for a Lady Chapel there can, however,
+be no doubt. In the nave of the church, between the piers immediately to
+the west of the north and south doorways, the visitor will notice a
+dark-coloured marble cross, beyond which no woman was allowed to pass
+eastward.
+
+#Monuments in the Nave and Transepts.#--The church of Durham is not
+rich in tombs and monuments to the dead. This is to be accounted for
+partly by the fact that for some centuries the Bishops of the diocese
+were interred in the chapter-house, and even most of these tombs have
+been lost or destroyed. Another reason for the scarcity of monuments is
+that no layman was allowed to be buried in the church until 1367, when
+Lord Ralph Neville obtained that distinction for himself and his wife,
+the Lady Alice de Neville, who was buried in 1374. This monument
+occupies the third sub-bay from the east, on the south side of the nave.
+It is an altar tomb, and though it has suffered severely from mutilation
+during the unsettled times of the Reformation, sufficient remains to
+enable us to see that it was once a well-designed and noble monument.
+Its mouldings are bold, and there are indications of the places where
+figures were once attached to the sides. The recumbent effigies of the
+noble lord and his wife, on the top of the tomb, are, however,
+hopelessly smashed. It is probable that Lord Ralph Neville obtained this
+honour for himself through his services and victory at the Battle of
+Neville's Cross, near Durham, in 1346. In the next bay westward is the
+tomb of Lord John Neville, who died in 1386. This is also an altar tomb,
+and has suffered severely, though it remains in a better state of
+preservation than the one just described. Its sides each have six
+niches, with elaborately ornamented canopies, and containing figures,
+while the ends have three similar niches with figures. The carving of
+the canopies is exceedingly beautiful. Between each of the niches are
+two square panels with trefoiled heads, each panel bearing a shield with
+the arms of Neville and Percy. Both above and below the niches much
+delicate carving may be noticed. Surmounting all are the broken effigies
+of Lord John and his wife, who was the daughter of Lord Henry Percy, the
+well-known Hotspur. All the figures on this tomb, including the
+recumbent figures, are headless, but sufficient remains to show that
+they were of great excellence. Remains of colouring and gilding can also
+be distinguished in places on the monument.
+
+Close to this is the slab and matrix of a brass to Robert Neville, who
+was bishop of the diocese from 1438 to 1457. The brass has all been
+removed, but the matrix shows a dignified figure of the bishop holding a
+crozier and a scroll, while an inscription formerly existed on a plate
+at his feet. Bishop Neville was known for his generous qualities, as
+well as for his high descent.
+
+In the western wall, on its south side, near to the entrance to the
+Galilee, is a mural tablet to a former Prebendary in the cathedral, and
+a well-known antiquary, Sir George Wheler, who died in the latter part
+of the seventeenth century. On the northern side is a slab to the
+memory of Captain R.M. Hunter, who was killed while charging a Sikh
+battery at Ferozeshah.
+
+Opposite to the monument of Ralph Neville is a modern altar tomb to a
+former headmaster of Durham Grammar School, the Rev. James Britton,
+D.D., erected by his pupils. It is surmounted by a reclining figure of
+Dr. Britton, in academic robes, reading a book.
+
+In the south transept is a fine monument, by Chantrey, to the memory of
+Bishop Barrington, who held the see from 1791 to 1826, dying at the
+advanced age of 92 years, beloved by all. He was a great prelate, and
+used his immense powers as Prince Palatine with great wisdom. The
+kneeling figure, with bowed head, the left hand resting on a book, in an
+attitude of deep reverence, is worthy of the name of its sculptor. On
+the west wall of the same transept is a tablet to the memory of the
+officers, non-commissioned officers, and privates of the Durham Light
+Infantry who were slain or died during the Crimean War.
+
+Near to this is a recently inserted brass to the memory of the officers
+and men of the 2nd Durham Regiment who died in Egypt and the Soudan.
+
+In the north transept we may give some attention to a monument to the
+Rev. John Carr, a former headmaster of Durham School. It was erected to
+his memory by his pupils. The monument was designed by Rickman, and is
+in the style known as Decorated Gothic.
+
+[Illustration: The Font and Cover.]
+
+The #Font# stands at the west end of the nave. It is a comparatively
+modern work, covered by a tall wooden canopy which was erected by Bishop
+Cosin in 1663. The original Norman font was destroyed by the Scottish
+prisoners in 1650, and was replaced by a large marble basin by Bishop
+Cosin. This font, in its turn, was removed to Pittington Church, where
+it is now in use, its place being filled by the present modern one. It
+is designed in the Norman style, and is square, supported on short
+columns. The sides are carved with medallions, copied from illuminated
+MSS., which represent scenes from the life of S. Cuthbert. The cover
+deserves attention as a specimen of the woodwork of the seventeenth
+century, exhibiting a curious and characteristic mixture of Classic and
+Gothic forms and details.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+HISTORY OF THE SEE
+
+
+The earlier history of the see of Durham has already been referred to in
+order to lead up to the founding of the cathedral. We have seen how the
+bishop and monks of Lindisfarne fled and wandered with the relics of
+their beloved S. Cuthbert, eventually settling at Chester-le-Street,
+until, in the year 990, Bishop Aldhun, in terror of the Danes, again
+fled southward to Ripon. The country at this time was ruled by that weak
+monarch, Ethelred the Unready, and the Danes, finding no determined
+opposition, continually made piratical incursions, and eventually,
+through the treachery of three chieftains, the Castle of Bamburgh fell
+into their hands. After an interval of three or four months peace was
+made with the invaders, and Aldhun and his monks ventured to return
+towards Chester-le-Street. It was during this journey, at a place called
+Wredelau, that the car carrying the saint stuck fast, and the incidents
+previously related occurred, which led to the founding of the Bishopric
+of Durham.
+
+#Aldhun# may therefore be called the first Bishop of Durham. He held
+the see for twenty-nine years, and died in 1018. Aldhun it was who built
+the first or White Church, now destroyed. It is extremely probable that
+some of the stones of this church were used in the foundations of
+Carileph's choir and apses.
+
+After Aldhun's death the see remained vacant for three years, when he
+was succeeded by
+
+#Edmund# (1020-1040). It is said that the monks could not agree as to
+who should succeed Aldhun, when one day Edmund, a presbyter, asked in a
+joke, "Why not appoint me?" Being a pious and a faithful man, they took
+him at his word, and, after much persuasion and fasting and prayer, he
+was consecrated. The choice was a good one. Edmund was an energetic and
+beloved prelate. He died at Gloucester in 1041. One of the most
+important events during his episcopate was the invasion of Northumbria
+by Duncan, King of the Scots. He besieged Durham, but was beaten off,
+with great slaughter, and the heads of many of his men were exposed in
+the market-place.
+
+#Egelric# (1042-1056) was the next bishop. He was an alien, and made
+himself obnoxious to the clergy and people. With the intention of
+rebuilding, he pulled down the wooden church at Chester-le-Street, which
+had been the seat of the bishopric for one hundred and thirteen years. A
+large quantity of treasure was found while digging foundations, and this
+Egelric appropriated and sent to his monastery at Peterborough, where he
+soon followed it. Before resigning the see of Durham, however, he
+secured the appointment of his brother to the bishopric. Some years
+later William the Conqueror called him to account for his behaviour in
+the matter of the treasure, and threw him into prison at Westminster,
+where he died in 1072.
+
+#Egelwin# (1056-1071) succeeded, through the influence of his
+brother. He took part in the rebellion of Eadwin and Morcar, and, like
+his predecessor, died in prison. He was the last of the Saxon bishops.
+
+#Walcher# (1071-1080). William I. found the Church in great disorder
+and made many changes. He filled most of the sees by the appointment of
+Norman bishops. To Durham he elected Walcher. The latter was a man of
+gentle disposition, but his chaplain, Leobwin, and Gilbert, a kinsman of
+his own, to whom he entrusted most of his affairs, were hated by the
+people, over whom they exercised great tyranny. At length a noble, named
+Lyulph, ventured to remonstrate with them, and in their rage they had
+him assassinated. The people were furious, and the bishop vainly denied
+any knowledge of the deed. He called a meeting at Gateshead. Here a
+tremendous tumult arose, the mob crying, "Good rede, short rede, slay ye
+the bishop," and eventually setting fire to the church. The bishop was
+eventually reduced to a choice of facing the mob or being burnt in the
+church. He chose the former, and, covering his face with his robe, went
+out. He was immediately slain on the threshold, and dreadfully
+mutilated. His body was removed by the monks to Jarrow, and afterwards
+to Durham, where he was buried.
+
+#William of S. Carileph# (1080-1096) was next appointed bishop. He
+was a man of great attainments. To him we owe the founding of the
+present cathedral. Carileph also made an important change, by the
+removal from Durham of the secular clergy, and their replacement by
+Benedictine monks drawn from Jarrow and Monkwearmouth. The foundations
+of the new church were laid on 29th July 1093, the Bishop and Prior
+Turgot being present. He did not live to see it very far advanced, being
+taken ill at Windsor. He died about Christmas 1096.
+
+#Ranulph Flambard# (1099-1128).--The see was kept vacant for three
+years by William Rufus, when he appointed Flambard, a great builder. He
+built the nave and aisles, the west doorway and lower part of the
+western towers, and vaulted the aisles. He also built Framwellgate
+Bridge over the Wear at Durham, erected and endowed S. Giles' Church,
+Durham, and was the founder of Norham Castle on the Tweed.
+
+#Galfrid Rufus# (1133-1140) was his successor. His episcopate was
+much disturbed by wars with the Scots. The chapter-house was finished
+during his time of office.
+
+#William de S. Barbara# (1143-1152) was next appointed. Extraordinary
+events marked his election. William Cumin, chancellor of the Scottish
+king, attempted to take the bishopric for himself, and succeeded so far
+as to capture the castle with the aid of the Scots. The rightful bishop
+was not able to gain possession for sixteen months after his election.
+Cumin submitted in 1144.
+
+[Illustration: The Crypt.]
+
+#Hugh Pudsey# (1153-1195) now succeeded to the bishopric at the age
+of twenty-five. He bought for life the earldom of Northumberland and the
+manor of Sadberg. In 1187 the news of the capture of Jerusalem by the
+Saracens spread consternation in the Church, and Pudsey prepared to
+accompany King Henry to the East. He fitted out ships and galleys in a
+most sumptuous manner, his own having a seat for himself of solid
+silver. Neither he nor King Henry embarked in the crusade, however. The
+king died, and Richard his son undertook the expedition, leaving Bishop
+Pudsey and Longchamp, Bishop of Ely, as justiciaries for the northern
+and southern portions of the kingdom respectively. These two
+quarrelled, and Pudsey was decoyed to London by Longchamp, and committed
+to the Tower. He soon obtained his release, but was compelled to resign
+the earldom of Northumberland. In 1195 he undertook a journey to London
+to see the king, and endeavour to obtain restitution of his honours and
+possessions, but was taken ill, and died on the way, at Howden. His work
+in the cathedral we have seen. He also built the great hall of the
+castle, most of the beautiful Church of S. Cuthbert at Darlington, and
+the Elvet Bridge over the Wear at Durham, and founded the hospital at
+Sherburn, near Durham. Darlington Church, which would well repay a
+visit, is a fine specimen of Early Pointed architecture, second only to
+the Galilee of Durham, the two showing in a wonderful manner the rapid
+development of the change which was taking place in architectural style
+during Pudsey's time.
+
+#Philip de Pictavia# (1197-1208), elected at the urgent request of
+the king. He was continually at loggerheads with his clergy. He
+supported King John against the Pope, and was for this excommunicated;
+died in 1208, and was buried in unconsecrated ground. This bishop is
+said to have had the permission of the king to coin money at Durham.
+
+#Richard de Marisco# (1217-1226) was elected after an interval of
+nearly ten years. The feud with the monks continued during his
+episcopate, and the bishop swore the Church of Durham should have no
+peace while he lived; threatened that if a monk should show himself
+beyond his cloister he should lose his head; and once, when his servants
+had beaten a monk, and the man complained, he replied that it was a pity
+they did not kill him. He died at Peterborough in 1226.
+
+#Richard le Poore# (1229-1237), who was the next bishop, elected
+after the see had been vacant two years and four months, was translated
+from Salisbury, where he had commenced building the new cathedral. He
+ended the dispute between the monks and the Bishop of Durham by an
+agreement known as "Le Convenit."
+
+#Nicholas de Farnham# (1241-1248) became bishop after a three years'
+dispute with the king. He resigned in 1248.
+
+#Walter de Kirkham# (1249-1260), Dean of York, was next elected.
+
+#Robert de Stitchill# (1261-1274), Prior of Finchale, succeeded him.
+Dissensions again arose between the bishop and the monks. He died on his
+return from France, where he had attended a council at Lyons. He was
+buried in a monastery in France, but his heart was brought to Durham,
+and buried in the chapter-house.
+
+#Robert de Insula# (1274-1283), a native of Holy Island, as his name
+suggests, was then elected bishop. His tenure of office was peaceful.
+
+[Illustration: Stone Coffin Lid.]
+
+#Anthony Bek# (1283-1310). The next bishop was of noble birth, the
+son of Walter Bek, Baron of Eresby, in Lincolnshire. He took part with
+Edward I. in his expedition to Scotland, and, being very wealthy, was of
+great assistance to the king. His following consisted of twenty-six
+standard bearers, one hundred and forty knights, and an army of five
+thousand foot and five hundred horse. He was employed by the king, with
+success, in many important State matters. In the year 1300 trouble again
+arose with the monks. Some of them being dissatisfied with the Prior
+Hotoun, the bishop proposed to hold a visitation. The prior refusing to
+admit him unless he came unattended, the bishop deposed and
+excommunicated him. The convent took sides, some with the bishop and
+some with the prior, and it was only on the interference of the king
+that a partial peace was restored. The quarrel soon reopened. Some men
+made a complaint against the bishop. He had compelled them to take arms
+under him in the Scottish war, and had imprisoned some who had returned
+without leave. The barons upheld the men, and it led to them taking
+sides with Prior Hotoun in his dispute. The bishop, calling the monks
+together, ordered them to elect a new prior, which they promptly refused
+to do. On this the bishop appointed Henry de Luceby of Holy Island to be
+prior of Durham, and brought men from Weardale and Tynedale to expel the
+old prior. They laid siege to the convent, and for three days Prior
+Hotoun and forty-six monks were shut up with only six loaves and sixteen
+herrings. They continued the services however. On the third day a
+Tynedale man was sent to pull the prior out of his stall, but was so
+awed by his venerable appearance that he dared not touch him. A monk on
+the bishop's side, however, did the work. Prior Luceby was installed,
+and Prior Richard seized and imprisoned. He soon escaped, however, and
+carried his complaint before Parliament, and afterwards to the Pope,
+Boniface VIII. The Pope decided in his favour, and Hotoun returned to
+Durham, and Luceby and his friends were obliged to go, though they
+tried, when doing so, to carry off some silver plate and other
+valuables. Bek continued in great splendour until his death in 1310.
+When he died he was king of the Isle of Man, Patriarch of Jerusalem,
+Bishop of Durham, and Prince Palatine.
+
+#Richard de Kellaw# (1311-1316), formerly a monk of Durham, succeeded
+Bek. He was a good and learned man, and lived in harmony with the monks.
+
+#Louis de Beaumont# (1318-1333) was next appointed bishop, after
+great competition and intrigue. He was chosen in opposition to the
+wishes of the chapter, who had elected Stamford, Prior of Finchale, to
+succeed Kellaw. On his way to Durham for consecration and enthronement,
+accompanied by two cardinals and a large retinue, he was waylaid at
+Rushyford by a band of ruffians under Gilbert Middleton. They plundered
+the cardinals, but carried the bishop a prisoner to Mitford Castle. His
+release was only secured on payment by the monastery of a heavy ransom.
+He was an ignorant man, and so innocent of Latin that he could not read
+his profession of obedience, being continually prompted. Later, at an
+ordination, he stumbled over the words "_in oenigmate_" and cried in
+French, "_Par Seynt Lewis, il ne fuit pas curtays qui cest parole ici
+escrit._" "By Saint Lewis he was no gentleman who wrote this word."
+
+#Richard de Bury# (1333-1345), who succeeded, was a great scholar,
+tutor to Edward III., and author of "Philobiblon," a book still extant.
+He was a good man, and very kind to the poor.
+
+#Thomas de Hatfield# (1345-1381) was, like Bishop Bek, a warrior
+ecclesiastic. Soon after his election he led eighty archers to the siege
+of Calais. His episcopate was notable for the wars with the Scots, and
+the great victory obtained over them, with the capture of King David and
+many nobles, at Neville's Cross, near Durham. Fifteen thousand Scots
+were slain. The victory was attributed to the presence of the sacred
+banner of S. Cuthbert, which Prior John Fossor took to a place near the
+battlefield, kneeling in prayer the while for success. A hymn of
+thanksgiving was appointed to be sung on the top of the cathedral tower
+on each anniversary of the battle. This custom is still carried out,
+though the day has been changed to the twenty-ninth of May. Hatfield was
+a liberal supporter of Durham College at Oxford. He erected his own tomb
+in the choir of the cathedral, in which he was afterwards buried.
+
+#John Fordham# (1381-1388), secretary to Richard II., and Canon of
+York, was next elected. Suspected of giving bad advice to the king, he
+was compelled to resign, but was given the inferior bishopric of Ely,
+where he lived to extreme old age, dying in 1425.
+
+#Walter de Skirlaw# (1388-1405), translated from Bath and Wells, was
+a munificent prelate. He built bridges at Shincliffe, Bishop Auckland,
+and Yarm; a refuge tower, a beautiful chapter-house (now in ruins) at
+Howden; and was a large contributor to the expense of building the
+central tower of York Cathedral. His work in the building of the
+cloisters of Durham has already been referred to.
+
+#Thomas Langley# (1406-1437) succeeded. He was Chancellor of England,
+Dean of York, and in 1411 was made a cardinal. He occupied the see
+during part of the reign of Henry IV., the whole of that of Henry V.,
+and fifteen years of that of Henry VI. He founded two schools on the
+Palace Green at Durham, and in his will left collections of books to
+many colleges.
+
+#Robert Neville# (1437-1457), son of the Earl of Westmoreland and his
+wife Joan, who was a daughter of John of Gaunt. He was therefore uncle
+of the Earl of Warwick, the "king-maker" of Richard III. and of Edward
+IV. He had a peaceful episcopate of nineteen years, and was buried in
+the cathedral, in the south aisle near his ancestors.
+
+#Laurance Booth# (1457-1476), Canon of York and Lichfield, Archdeacon
+of Richmond, and Dean of S. Paul's, was the next bishop. He was a
+supporter of the House of Lancaster. He was translated to the
+archbishopric of York in 1476, the first of the bishops of Durham who
+was raised to that dignity.
+
+#William Dudley# (1476-1483), Dean of Windsor, succeeded him.
+
+#John Sherwood# (1483-1494), who was appointed next, was a learned
+man, and made a large collection of Greek manuscripts. He died in Rome
+in 1494.
+
+#Richard Fox# (1494-1501) was translated from Bath and Wells after
+the see had remained vacant for eleven months. Nothing of particular
+moment occurred during his episcopate. He was an early patron and helper
+of Wolsey, and lived to regret having assisted him. He made alterations
+in the castle at Durham. He was translated to the see of Winchester in
+1501, and died in 1528.
+
+#William Sinews# or #Sever# (1502-1505), translated from Carlisle.
+He is said to have been the son of a sieve-maker at Shincliffe, near
+Durham.
+
+#Christopher Bainbridge# (1507-1508), Dean of York, was next elected,
+and after an episcopate of one year was translated to York. In 1511 he
+was sent to Rome as ambassador by Henry VIII., and while there was
+created cardinal. He died in Rome, poisoned by a servant whom he had
+struck in anger.
+
+#Thomas Ruthall# (1509-1522), Dean of Salisbury, was the next bishop.
+He was immensely wealthy, and his love of money brought him into
+disgrace. King Henry commanded him to draw up an account of the lands
+and revenues of the Crown. The bishop, in error, sent to the king the
+wrong book, in which was set forth an account of his own possessions.
+The king, though tampered with by Wolsey, made no use of the knowledge
+thus obtained. But the affair rankled in the mind of the bishop, and is
+said to have hastened his death.
+
+#Thomas Wolsey# (1522-1528) was appointed to succeed him. The famous
+cardinal held the see for six years, as well as that of York. During the
+whole of his episcopate he never visited Durham, and in 1528 he resigned
+it for the see of Winchester.
+
+#Cuthbert Tunstall# (1530-1559) was translated from London by a Papal
+Bull, the last used for this purpose. Tunstall was a remarkable man, and
+he occupied the see during an important period of Church history, the
+Reformation, all the stages of which he saw. During his episcopacy, the
+great privileges of the bishops of Durham as Princes Palatine were very
+much curtailed. In 1526, while Tunstall was Bishop of London, the
+English translation of the New Testament by Tyndall appeared, causing
+great alarm among the clergy. The part played by Tunstall in relation to
+this is well known. He opposed the supremacy of King Henry as head of
+the Church, but eventually gave up the struggle and preached in its
+favour. The monastery of Durham was suppressed in 1540, and a dean and
+twelve canons appointed. Soon after the accession of Edward VI., Bishop
+Tunstall was committed to the Tower and deprived of his see, on a charge
+of having encouraged rebellion in the north. On the accession of Mary to
+the throne he was released and restored, but there would seem to be no
+grounds for supposing that he took any part in the cruelties practised
+during her reign. When Elizabeth became queen, Tunstall refused to take
+the oath, and was again deprived of his see, and, being now an old man,
+was committed to the custody of his friend Archbishop Parker
+(Canterbury), with whom he lived till his death in 1559. He was a
+scholarly prelate, of a kindly nature, and was held in universal esteem.
+
+#James Pilkington# (1560-1575) left the buildings of the see in a
+ruinous condition.
+
+#Richard Barnes# (1575-1587), translated from Carlisle. He is said to
+have been removed to Durham in order to spy upon the correspondence and
+messengers of the unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots.
+
+#Matthew Hutton# (1589-1594), Dean of York, was the next bishop. A
+man of great learning, and considered one of the best preachers of his
+day. He was translated to York in 1594.
+
+#Tobias Matthew# (1595-1606), Dean of Durham, was his successor. He
+was also a great preacher, and was celebrated for his wit. He was
+translated to York.
+
+#William James# (1606-1617), Dean of Durham, was next elected.
+
+#Richard Neile# (1617-1627) was translated from Lincoln. He was
+remarkable as being the only bishop who held six sees successively--viz.
+1608, Rochester; 1610, Lichfield; 1613, Lincoln; 1617, Durham; 1627,
+Winchester; and 1631, Archbishop of York. He did much to help forward
+men of learning and ability by giving them preferment in his see, and
+reserving apartments for their use in Durham House, London, which became
+known as Durham College. He spent large sums of money on repairs to the
+buildings at Durham.
+
+#George Monteigne# (1628), Bishop of London, only held the see of
+Durham for three months, when he was translated to York.
+
+#John Howson# (1628-1631), Bishop of Oxford, held the see for two
+years, and died in 1631.
+
+#Thomas Morton# (1632-1659), translated from Lichfield. The North of
+England was much disturbed in 1640 by the invasion of the Scots, and
+Bishop Morton fled--first to Stockton, afterwards to York--and never
+returned to his diocese. The successful Scots levied heavy taxes on the
+district for the maintenance of their troops, as much as £850 a day
+being demanded. In 1646, Episcopacy was abolished, and the estates of
+the bishops ordered to be sold. Thus we find at Durham the castle sold
+to the Mayor of London for £1267 and Durham, Borough, and Framwellgate
+disposed of to the Corporation for £200. The bishop lived a life of
+suffering in London, cared for by his friends, till his death in 1659,
+at the age of ninety-four. During his episcopate, in 1656, Oliver
+Cromwell arranged for the founding of a college in Durham, but his death
+prevented him carrying out his scheme. His son, however, did so, and it
+flourished until the Restoration, which, by giving back property to its
+rightful owners, put an end to its existence.
+
+#John Cosin# (1660-1671), Canon of Durham, was the first bishop after
+the Restoration. He was a most munificent prelate, leaving many
+charitable bequests. He spent large sums in the restoration of the
+cathedral and castle and the palace at Bishop Auckland. He built a
+hospital for eight poor people, and erected a library on the palace
+green.
+
+#Nathaniel Crewe# (1642-1722), translated from Oxford. He was a
+strong supporter of King James II., but afterwards took the oath of
+allegiance to William and Mary. He was noted for his charity and
+munificence, and left large sums to the poor, and in scholarships
+tenable by natives of Durham.
+
+#William Talbot# (1722-1730), translated from Salisbury.
+
+#Edward Chandler# (1730-1750), Bishop of Lichfield, was next elected.
+He gave £2000 to be laid out for the benefit of the widows of clergymen
+of his diocese.
+
+#Joseph Butler# (1750-1752) was translated from Bristol. He is best
+known as the author of "The Analogy of Religion, Natural and Revealed."
+
+#Richard Trevor# (1752-1771), Bishop of S. David's, a learned, pious,
+and unostentatious man. He left £200 in his will to the poor of Durham
+and Auckland.
+
+#John Egerton# (1771-1787), Bishop of Lichfield, was next elected. He
+married the daughter of Henry, Duke of Kent, and his eldest son
+afterwards became Earl of Bridgewater.
+
+#Thomas Thurlow# (1787-1791) was translated to Durham from Lincoln.
+He was brother of the Lord Chancellor.
+
+#Shute Barrington# (1791-1826) was the next bishop, having previously
+held the sees of Llandaff and Salisbury. A most beneficent prelate; his
+charities, especially those for the founding of schools and augmentation
+of poor livings, were magnificent. During his episcopacy, external
+repairs to the cathedral having become absolutely necessary, James
+Wyatt, who had already done such mischief at Salisbury, was given charge
+of the work. Then it was that the paring process, spoken of previously,
+was completed, the chapter-house destroyed, and the Galilee Chapel only
+saved from destruction by the intervention of Dean Cornwallis. Wyatt's
+other wild schemes, to extend the choir eastwards, to the utter ruin of
+the Nine Altar Chapel, to remove the beautiful Neville screen, and
+surmount the central tower of the church by a spire, were happily
+checked in time, or there is no saying to what extent the building would
+have been mutilated. Bishop Barrington died in London, in his
+ninety-third year.
+
+#William Van Mildert# (1826-1836), Bishop of Llandaff, succeeded to
+the see. During his episcopate, many important changes were made. The
+Ecclesiastical Commission, appointed in 1833, to consider in what manner
+the funds of the Church might be made more available for the purposes
+for which they were intended, decided to give future bishops a fixed
+yearly payment, and to reduce the number of canons from twelve to six.
+On the appointment of a new bishop, the Palatinate was to be annexed by
+the State. Thus Van Mildert was the last Count Palatine. Before these
+changes came into force, however, the bishop and the dean and chapter
+founded and endowed the university out of the revenues of the see, for
+the use of which the bishop gave up the castle. Bishop Van Mildert was a
+man of great charity, and though his income was immense, he died
+comparatively poor. He died in February 1836, and was interred in the
+chapel of the Nine Altars.
+
+#Edward Maltby# (1836-1856), his successor, was translated from
+Chichester, and held the see for twenty years, when, owing to advanced
+age and increasing infirmity, he resigned in 1856.
+
+#Charles Thomas Longley# (1856-1860), first Bishop of Ripon, was next
+elected. He was a popular and much-beloved prelate. In 1860 he was
+created Archbishop of York, and two years later was translated to
+Canterbury.
+
+#Hon. Henry Montague Villiers# (1860-1861) was translated from
+Carlisle. A fine preacher, his episcopate was all too short. He died,
+after much suffering, in 1861.
+
+#Charles Baring# (1861-1878), Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol,
+succeeded him. A man of unbounded charity and goodness, he won the
+affection of all who knew him personally. He was compelled, through
+illness, to resign the see in 1878, and did not long survive his
+retirement.
+
+#Joseph Barber Lightfoot# (1879-1889) was then elected to the see. A
+man of scholarly attainments, he is still too well known and remembered
+to need any detailed note. He came to Durham pledged to accomplish as
+soon as possible the division of the diocese, which promise he carried
+out by restoring the suppressed see of Hexham to Newcastle-on-Tyne. A
+fine tomb to the memory of Dr Lightfoot has been placed on the north
+side of the choir of the cathedral, and as a memorial of his episcopate
+the mutilated chapter-house has been restored.
+
+The present bishop is the #Right Rev. Brooke Foss Westcott, D.D.#
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+In this place may conveniently be given the rough draft of the
+settlement of the see by King Henry VIII. at the Reformation. Although
+departed from in many instances, it throws a curious light on the king's
+intentions to keep up some semblance of a conventual institution with an
+active educational purpose.
+
+
+                              DURESME.
+
+                         [Fol. 30.] Duresme \
+                                cum Cellis. /
+
+First a provoste of the College                                    cc li.
+Item xii prebendaryes and the moste parte of theym preachers vi
+  of them 1 markes and vi of them xxvi li. xiii s. iiii d. by the
+  yere                                                          ccclx li.
+Item a Reader of humanytie in greke by the yere                    xx li.
+Item a Reader of dyvynytie in hebrewe by the yere                  xx li.
+Item a Reader bothe of devynytie and humanytie by the yere         xx li.
+Item a Reader of physyke                                           xx li.
+Item lx scollers to be tawghte both gramer and logyke in hebrewe
+  greke and lattyn every of them by the yere iii li. vi s. viii d. cc li.
+Item xx studyentes in dyvynytie to be founde x att Oxenford, and
+  x att Cambryge every of them by the yere x li.                   cc li.
+Item a Scolmaster for the same Scollers                            xx li.
+Item an ussher                                                      x li.
+Item viii petycanons to synge and serve in the quere every of them
+  x li. by the yere                                            xxiiii li.
+Item x laye men to synge and serve also in the quyre every of
+  them by yere vi li. xiii s. iiii d.           lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d.
+Item x Chorysters every of them by the yere fyve marks
+                                                 xxxiii li. vi s. viii d.
+Item a master of the Chylderne                                      x li.
+Item a Gospeller                                                   vi li.
+Item a pysteller                                                    v li.
+Item ii sextens                                    vi li. xiii s. iiii d.
+Item xii poore men beynge olde servynge men decayed by warres
+  or in the Kyng's servyce every of
+  them vi li. xiii s. iiii d. by yere            lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d.
+
+                           [Fol. 30. dors.]
+
+Item yearly to be distrybuted in almes to poore house-holders
+                                                 lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d.
+Item for yearly reparacions                      lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d.
+Item to be employed yerely in makynge and mendynge of
+  hyghewayes                                     lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d.
+Item to a Steward of the Landes                    vi li. xiii s. iiii d.
+Item to an Audytor                                                  x li.
+Item to ii porters to kepe the gates and shave the Company          x li.
+Item to one cheyf Butler for hys wages and dyete   iiii li. xiiis. iiiid.
+Item to an under Butler for hys wages and dyete       iii li. vis. viiid.
+Item one Cheyf Cooke for hys wages and dyete       iiii li. xiiis. iiiid.
+Item oone Under Coke for hys wages and dyete        iii li. vi s. viii d.
+Item for the provostes expences in receyvyng the Rentes and
+  surveyeng the landes by yere                                      x li.
+Item to a Cato^r to bye there dyetes for his wages and dyete and
+  makynge hys bockes of reconyngs by the yere        vi li. xiiis. iiiid.
+
+                             [Fol. 31.]
+
+                                              xx
+Duresme                                 M^lDCiiii viii^{li}  xi^s viii^d.
+                                             xx
+Porciones deductæ                       M^lDiiii xiii^{li} xiii^s iiii^d.
+Reman'                                      lxxxxiiii^{li} xviii^s iii^d.
+
+                              [Fol. 32.]
+
+A proporcion for mayntenance of Hospitalite Lernynge Dyvine
+   Service Almes and other necessarie Expences in the Cathedrall
+   Churche of Duresme to be erectyd foundyd and establysshed
+   by the King's Majesties goodnes.
+
+                      xx
+            Sm^a M^lDCiiii viii^{li} xis. viii d.
+
+
+                              HOSPITALITE.
+
+       The dean cclxiii li. x s.--Prebend' xxxii li. vi s. viii d.
+                 Corpus of the deane and prebendaries.
+
+Fyrste for the Deane for the corpus of his promotion which he shall
+    certaynlye receyve and accordinge wherunto he shall paye the
+    tenthes and fyrst frutes                                       xl li.
+
+Item to twelve prebendaries iche of them for the corpus of his
+  promotion viii^{li} which he shall receyve certaynly by yere and
+  accordinge whereunto he shall paye the tenthes and fyrste    xx
+  fruytes                                                     iiii xvi li.
+
+                             Sm^a cxxxvi^{li}
+
+
+                              DISTRIBUTIONS.
+
+                                               | DCxxx li. xiii s. i d. |
+                                               +---------------------^--+
+Item to the deane for every daie of his residence to be payd by waie |
+  of Cotidiane distribucion out of the common possession xii s. v d. |
+  to be paid out of the same common possession which amountyth       |
+  in the yere                                 ccxxvi li. xii s. i d. |
+                                                                     |
+Item to eche prebendarye for every daie of his residence to be payd  |
+  by waie of Cotidiane distribucion out of the common possession     |
+  xvi^d ob. over and besydes iiii s. ix d. ob. to be payd to every   |
+  of the prebendaries out of the same common possession which        |
+  in the hole yere amountith to the twelve said prebendaries to      |
+  the Summe                                              ccciiii li.-^
+
+                            [Fol. 32 dors.]
+
+                               LEARNINGE.
+
+                                           | ccxxx li. vi s. viii d. |
+                                           +-------------------------+
+                                                | cciii^{li} xiii iiii. |
+                                                +--------------------^--+
+Item a reader in divinite for his yerely stypende to be paid of      |
+    the common possession                   xxvi li. xiii s. iiii d. |
+Item to twelve scolers to be found at the Universite off Oxforde     |
+    every of them ix li. xi s. viii d. by yere               cxv li. |
+Item to xviii scolers to be taught Gramer Greke and Latyn            |
+    every of them iiii li. by yere                         lxxii li. |
+Item to a scolemaster for the same scolars                     x li. |
+Item to an ussher for them                    vi li. xiii s. iiii d.-^
+
+
+                              DYVINE SERVICE.
+
+                                                            | ccci^{li} |
+                                                            +--------^--+
+Item to twelve petycanons eche of them x li. by yere for ther dyet   |
+    and wagys                                                cxx li. |
+Item to tenne laymen syngars eche of them to have yerely for their   |
+    dyet and wagys vi li. xiii s. iiii d.   lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d. |
+Item to tenne Choristers eche of them lxvi s. viii d.                |
+                                            xxiii li. vi. s. viii d. |
+Item for a master to the Children for his dyet and wagys      x. li. |
+Item to a Gospeller and Epistoler eche of them  vi li. xiiis. iiiid. |
+Item to twoo sextens                                         xii li. |
+Item to a Cator                               vi li. xiii s. iiii d. |
+Item to twoo buttellers                                      xii li. |
+Item to two Cookes                                           xii li. |
+Item to thre other commen servaantes as portor and ryngars eche of   |
+    them v li.                                                xv li.-^
+
+                                 [Fol. 33.]
+
+                                   ALMES.
+
+Item to eyght poore men eche of them yerely vi li. xiii. s. iiii d.   |
+                                               liii li. vi s. viii d. |
+Item to be yerely distributed in almes to householders                |
+                                              xvi li. xiii s. iiii d. |
+Item to be yerely spente in mendynge of hyghways               xx li.-^
+
+
+                            EXPENCES NECESSARIE.
+
+                                               xx
+                                            | ciiii iiii li. xv s. x d. |
+                                            +-------------------------^-+
+Item for yerely reparacions by Estymation.     cxxxi li. viii s. v d. |
+Item in exspences yerely in surveynge the landes and receyvinge       |
+    the Rentes                                                 xx li. |
+Item in expences for wyne and wax              xiii li. vi s. viii d. |
+Item to a Stewarde of landes for his fee                        x li. |
+Item to an Auditor                                              x li.-+
+
+                         xx                               xx
+Sum of the common M^lCCCiiii vi li. xiii s. xd. M^lCCCCiiiixvi^{li} xv d.
+Sum totall of all thies percels                 M^lDxxii^{li} xiii^s x^d.
+
+Above which chargys the church indewyd with landes to susteyne the
+same muste pay yerely tenthes and a certayne summe by composition for
+the fyrste frutes deducted and abbayted.
+  Cxxxvi li. payd by the deane and prebendaries severall.
+               cxl li. to be allowyd by statute for almes.
+               x li. for the stewarde allowyd by statute.
+               x li. for the Auditors fee allowyd by statute.
+                                                              xx
+The hole sume of deductions                                CCiiii xvi li.
+And so remaynes chargeable with tenthes and fyrst frutes
+                                               M^lCCxxvi li. xiii s. x d.
+
+[Illustration: The Chapter Library.]
+
+[Sidenote: ]
+
+                             [Fol. 33. dors.]
+                                                | ccxvi li. ix s. vi d. |
+                                                +---------------------^-+
+Whereof to be payd for the tenthes of the commen possession           |
+                                           cxliiii li. vi s. iiii d.  |
+Item a yerely Rent to be payd by composition for the fyrste frutes    |
+                                                lxxii li. xii s. iid.-^
+
+And so the Cathedrale Churche for mayntenance of the said yerely
+    charges and paymente touchinge hospitalite lernynge divine
+    service almes necessarie exspences tenthes and fyrst frutes
+    after the Rates before mentionyd must yf the said shall lyke
+    the Kings majestic be indewyd with yerely Revenues of the
+    summe of M^lDCCxxxix^{li} xiii s. iiii d.            MDCCxii li. x s.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+THE CASTLE AND UNIVERSITY
+
+
+No notice of Durham and its cathedral would seem complete without some
+mention being made of its fortress, the growth of which has been
+contemporary with, and, we might almost say, inseparable from that of
+the monastery itself.
+
+There can be little doubt that other than the miraculous considerations
+assigned to them by tradition influenced the monks and the congregation
+of S. Cuthbert in their final choice of a resting-place for the bones of
+their beloved saint. The almost impregnable position of the rocky
+promontory upon which both Cathedral and Castle stand suggests a careful
+selection on their part, with a view to the prevention of attack and
+consequent further disturbance of their sacred relics. What the first
+fortification was is a matter of doubt; most probably it was merely a
+wall or rampart of earth, with a large artificial mound at the weakest
+point. This seems to have been the usual practice at an early date at
+many other places in England, and in some cases their date is known and
+corresponds to the time at which Durham was probably first fortified.
+Whatever the earliest protections were, we know that in 1072 William the
+Conqueror, on his way from Scotland, passed through Durham. He quickly
+perceived the natural advantages and strength of the position, and gave
+orders for the erection of a castle. This was at once set about, during
+the episcopacy of Bishop Walcher, and continued under Carileph and
+Flambard. Of this building, which might be styled "The Conqueror's
+Castle," not much remains. The most important is the #Chapel# or
+Crypt, which belongs, no doubt, to the earlier part of the period named
+(1080 to 1096). In plan the chapel has a nave and two aisles. The roof
+is vaulted, the ribs being plain, semi-circular, and square recessed,
+and is supported by six circular columns. The capitals of these columns
+are a somewhat interesting feature, owing to their Lombardic character.
+The abaci are square and moulded, while the caps proper carry at their
+angles rudely carved volutes such as occur in the White Tower, London.
+Each capital is also carved differently with curious and rude devices.
+Of the three windows which terminated the nave and aisle at the east
+end, one has been destroyed to make way for a staircase and the other
+two are built up. The original windows of the chapel were very narrow
+and widely splayed. In the walls are an aumbrey and the remains of two
+altars.
+
+[Illustration: The Chapel or Crypt, Durham Castle.]
+
+Other remains of this date are somewhat scattered. Two windows in the
+undercroft of Bishop Bek's, or what is now known as #Bishop Hatfield's
+Hall#, are examples. They have converging jambs, the semi-circular
+heads being cut from one stone and the inside very widely splayed. The
+wall from the keep to the chapel, and that from the keep to the gateway
+are also Norman work, as are also portions of the gateway itself.
+
+The next important changes in the castle were made by Bishop Pudsey,
+1153-1195, who not only repaired the existing work but built a hall,
+known as #Pudsey's Hall#. Although this hall has now almost entirely
+disappeared, through repairs and alterations, sufficient evidence as to
+its whereabouts and general plan is forthcoming. It was of two storeys,
+the lower and upper halls. Entrance to the lower hall was originally
+gained by a staircase which led from the courtyard to the splendid
+doorway now enclosed in Tunstall's Gallery. This magnificent entrance
+having been covered with lath and plaster, and for long completely
+forgotten, was unearthed by, and at the expense of Bishop Barrington,
+early in the present century. It is in good preservation and is a
+splendid specimen of rich Norman architecture. It consists of five
+orders, all richly carved and moulded. Three orders rest on carved
+capitals and shafts, and two are carried down the jambs of the doorway.
+The stairway has entirely disappeared, but there is little room to doubt
+that it would be of much the same character as that in the close at
+Canterbury; and to the protection afforded by the staircase roof, we
+are, no doubt, indebted for the good preservation of the arch mouldings
+of the doorway itself.
+
+What was originally Pudsey's Upper Hall is now styled the #Norman
+Gallery#. The greater portion of this gallery is at the present time
+divided into chambers of residence for the students of the university.
+It is reached by the Black Staircase and a doorway in the Early English
+Gothic style. The interior of the south and west walls are enriched by
+arcades in groups of three, the central bay of each of which is larger
+than those flanking it, and is pierced by a window. The arches of the
+arcade rest on shafts and cushion capitals, and are carved with chevron
+ornament. The whole arrangement hereabouts bears the impress of having
+been a portion of one great building, which an examination of the roof,
+lead, and general outline makes even more certain.
+
+On the western side of the courtyard stands the great #Bek's Hall#,
+built by the bishop of that name. It is above the Norman undercroft,
+previously mentioned. Much of its original character is now lost, owing
+to restorations, curtailments, and alterations. Bek's doorway is still
+in existence, though much hidden by the porch erected later by Bishop
+Cosin. It has a pointed arch of two orders, with detached shafts in the
+jambs. Another original relic, unrestored, is part of the window nearest
+the fireplace, which is valuable as evidence of the date of the erection
+of the hall. The tracery is geometrical, and the shafts in the angles of
+the splays are banded. About the year 1350 Bishop Hatfield enlarged and
+altered Bek's hall. At the west end he inserted two light windows, which
+are now blocked, though the tracery may be seen from students' rooms
+inside, and partly from the outside. The open oak roof, with the
+exception of some necessary later repairs, is of Bishop Hatfield's time.
+Hatfield repaired and altered Pudsey's upper hall by the addition of
+east and west windows, and probably a new roof. He also rebuilt the
+#Keep#, which time and war had greatly injured. The existing keep,
+which was erected in 1840, is similar to Hatfield's, and in many places
+stands upon the old foundations. It is now used entirely as apartments
+for students of University College.
+
+Bishop Fox (1494-1501) is responsible for the next important changes. He
+curtailed the great hall by a partition wall near its south end, which
+still exists. The wall bears his badge in two places--a pelican feeding
+her young with blood from her breast. He also adapted part of Pudsey's
+buildings, near the south-west corner of the castle, to the purposes of
+a kitchen, erected three fireplaces, and windows, and the oak buttery
+hatch which opens from the kitchen, and which again has carved upon it
+"the pelican in her piety."
+
+Bishop Tunstall (1530-1558) built #Tunstall's Gallery#, which
+extends from the great hall to the clock tower. It is entered by Cosin's
+staircase (erected later) and by an eastern stair built by Tunstall
+himself. A curious feature of this stairway is a port-hole which
+commands the main entrance to the courtyard. The present beautiful
+little chapel is also the work of Bishop Tunstall. It contains some
+notable carved oak stalls, of earlier date than the chapel itself, which
+were brought from the castle at Bishop Auckland. The carved devices of
+the miserere seats of these stalls are curious and worthy of attention.
+The doors in the gateway of the courtyard are the work of Tunstall's
+time.
+
+Bishop Cosin (1660-1672) found the castle in a dilapidated condition.
+During the Commonwealth it had been sold to the then Lord Mayor of
+London, who used it badly, to say nothing of the ruin caused by the
+Scots. He spent large sums in its restoration. He added the present
+porch or entrance from the courtyard to the great hall. The great
+staircase in the north-west corner of the courtyard is his and bears his
+arms. Within and leading to Tunstall's Gallery is the Black Staircase,
+also the work of Cosin. He enlarged the chapel, and constructed and
+fitted several apartments in the castle, besides several minor works. In
+his will, he says, he spent the greater part of his temporal estate in
+"rebuilding and repaireing the two episcopall Castles of Durham and
+Bishop Auckland." This, he states, cost him seventeen thousand pounds,
+including the furnishing and ornamenting of the chapels, which he did
+"for the use of my successors in those Chappells for ever." Many of the
+agreements between Bishop Cosin and his masons, plasterers, carpenters,
+and painters, from which the exact dates and prices paid for the work
+may be learned, are preserved.
+
+The latest important work at the castle was the rebuilding of the keep,
+in 1840, which was described at that time as "a picturesque ruin." It
+was entirely rebuilt on its original plan. The gateway to the courtyard
+was repaired and modernised by Bishop Barrington, with the existing
+inartistic result.
+
+Durham Castle owes its picturesque appearance to two causes--first, its
+magnificent and commanding position, on a rocky escarpment; and second,
+no doubt, to the many vicissitudes through which it has passed, the
+alterations and additions made necessary by time and constant war, and
+later, the entirely different uses to which the building is put.
+
+[Illustration: Staircase in the Castle.]
+
+It is now chiefly used as a hall of residence for university men and as
+lodging for the Judges of Assize.
+
+The most favourable time for the architectural student to visit the
+castle is during one of the university vacations, otherwise many
+interesting features would be denied him. Many portions (except
+students' chambers) are, however, open to the public every week day.
+
+#The University of Durham.#--From an early date, frequent mention is
+made in the history of the see of Durham, of a college at Oxford called
+the Durham College. Its origin is not exactly known, but by the
+liberality of several bishops and priors its original endowment
+increased, until provision was made for eight fellows and eight
+scholars. This was the case at the time of the suppression of the
+monasteries by King Henry VIII., when, owing to its connection with the
+monastery of Durham, the college was also dissolved. Its revenues, were,
+however, rescued, and in 1541 were handed over by the king to the newly
+created dean and chapter. Thus the matter stood till 1650, when a
+petition was presented to the Protector, showing the great disadvantages
+to the North of England arising from the long distance of Oxford and
+Cambridge, and praying that the houses of the dean and prebendaries
+might be converted into a college. Cromwell took a favourable view of
+the idea, and in a letter to Lenthall, the Speaker, in its support, he
+says:--
+
+    "Truly it seems to me a matter of great concernment and importance,
+    as that which (by the blessing of God) may much conduce to the
+    promotion of learning and piety in these poore, rude, and ignorant
+    parts, there being also many concurring advantages to this place, as
+    pleasantness, and aptness of situation, healthfull aire, and plenty
+    of provisions, which seeme to favour and pleade for theire desires
+    therein."[7]
+
+  [7] Hutchinson, vol. i
+
+Various delays occurred, however, and it was not until 1657 that the
+Lord Protector issued his patent for the erection of the proposed
+college, in a document consisting of twenty-three heads.
+
+The college thus commenced made great progress, and would no doubt have
+continued to do so, but for the constant opposition of the two great
+universities of Oxford and Cambridge. Then followed the Restoration, and
+with it came a reaction against all measures established during the
+Protectorate. This feeling, combined with persistent petitions from the
+universities, soon accomplished the downfall of the College.
+
+Bishop Van Mildert, who was translated to Durham in 1826, during his
+short episcopate saw many changes, not the least of which was the
+successful revival of the scheme for a university. Powers were obtained
+in 1832 for the training of students in divinity and the conferring of
+degrees in other faculties. The new foundation was endowed out of the
+revenues of the cathedral, and the bishop gave up the Castle of Durham
+for the use of the college, besides financial assistance of £1000 for
+the first year and £2000 for the following years until his death in
+1836. The first warden was Dr Charles Thorp, Archdeacon and Canon of
+Durham, but it was provided by an order, on the recommendation of the
+Ecclesiastical Commissioners that in future the office of warden should
+be permanently attached to the deanery, and that a canonry in the
+cathedral be annexed to each of the professorships of Divinity and
+Greek.
+
+The government of the university is in the hands of the dean and
+chapter, and the affairs administered by a warden, senate and
+convocation. A royal charter was obtained in 1837 making the university
+a corporate body with perpetual succession and a common seal.
+
+The university, besides its original schools of arts and divinity, has
+established schools of physical science and medicine, in connection with
+the Durham College of Science at Newcastle-on-Tyne, and has recently
+admitted women students to its courses and lectures.
+
+There are many foundation scholarships and exhibitions in arts,
+classics, mathematics, and theology, besides a long list of private
+foundations and fellowships.
+
+The university consists of one college and one hall. The former,
+University College, occupies the Castle, and the latter, Bishop
+Hatfield's Hall.
+
+It is well supplied with libraries. The university library founded at
+the opening, to which Bishop Van Mildert contributed a valuable
+collection.
+
+The library given in 1855 by the late Dr Martin Routh, president of
+Magdalen College, Oxford.
+
+The library presented by the late Bishop Maltby in 1856, which he
+endowed with £1000.
+
+A library was also bequeathed to the university in 1859 by the late T.M.
+Winterbottom, M.D., of Westoe, South Shields. A large collection of
+books was bequeathed by the late Bishop Lightfoot.
+
+Two other important libraries may here be mentioned, though they do not
+belong to the University--viz. the Chapter Library and Bishop Cosin's
+Library.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+THE CITY
+
+
+Besides the Cathedral and Castle, the City of Durham possesses several
+churches of decided interest to the student of architecture, which
+deserve a brief notice.
+
+The Parish Church of #S. Mary in the North Bailey.#--This small
+church is generally known as S. Mary le Bow, owing to the fact that in
+its original steeple was an arch, through which the roadway passed. This
+steeple fell in 1637, and the ancient structure was allowed to lapse
+into complete ruin. The present church was built in 1685, and its most
+noticeable feature is the open carved screen between the nave and
+chancel erected in 1707. The site of the church is the oldest in the
+city, and some writers have thought it probably identical with that of
+the White Church in which the body of S. Cuthbert was placed during the
+building of the cathedral.
+
+#S. Mary-the-Less# is a small but picturesque church situated in the
+South Bailey, and is of Norman date. Its original architectural
+character is, however, almost entirely lost, owing to extensive
+restorations which took place in 1846-7. The round-headed window now in
+the south wall of the chancel, but formerly in the west wall of the
+nave, is the only remaining original feature. The church is entered by a
+porch on the south side, and consists of a nave and chancel only. Some
+stones in the churchyard, which were removed from their position when
+the church was restored, are carved with chevron ornament, and would
+seem to show that the date of the original structure was the earlier
+part of the twelfth century.
+
+#S. Oswald.#--This church stands on high ground overlooking the river
+Wear, at the head of New Elvet; and is the parish church of the ancient
+borough of Elvet. The first church was erected by Bishop Carileph,
+though the earliest parts of the existing building are of the time of
+Bishop Pudsey, who also built the bridge across the river, known as the
+Elvet Bridge. To this date (about 1190) belongs the eastern part of the
+nave arcade, the arches of which are semi-circular and rest upon tall
+round piers. Early in the fourteenth century a new chancel was built,
+the aisles rebuilt and extended to the west end, and two new arches
+added to the west end of the nave arcades. In the early part of the
+fifteenth century a clerestory and open parapet were added, and a new
+oak roof placed over the nave. This was most probably a hammer-beam
+roof, and was coloured and gilded and decorated with angels holding
+shields. The only parts remaining at the present day are the grotesque
+carved corbels, and the angels. The tower was also constructed at this
+time. In 1834, owing to subsidence of the ground, it became necessary to
+rebuild the south aisle and a large part of the chancel, which caused
+the destruction of much architectural beauty. The open parapet was
+removed, the clerestory windows replaced by the present inferior ones,
+and the fine oak roof destroyed. The east end of the chancel was rebuilt
+in 1864. Special attention should be directed to the fine oak stall-work
+in the chancel, boldly carved in the style of the early part of the
+fifteenth century. The tower, which forms a beautiful and conspicuous
+landmark, is reached by a stone staircase of unusual character. It is
+placed in the thickness of the wall, and is covered in with twenty-four
+gravestones of thirteenth and fourteenth century date, on which may yet
+be seen portions of inscriptions and symbols. Built into the tower was
+part of a Saxon cross, which has now been removed for preservation to
+the dean and chapter library. This cross is interesting as evidence of
+the existence on the same site of a pre-Norman church. The tower was
+carefully restored in 1863. It contains a peal of six bells, which were
+re-cast in 1694, and bear the following inscriptions:--
+
+    1. GLOVIA(?) IN ALTISSMISS(?) DEO PEX FORSTER A
+         VIC CHRISTO HODSON ME FECIT 1694.
+
+    3. DEVM TIMETE PEX FORSTER AM VIC I EVANS C
+         WARDEN CHRISTO HODSON ME FECIT.
+
+    4. REGEM HONORATE PEX FORSTER A M VIC 1694
+         CHRISTOPR HODSON MADE ME I EVANS I S
+         H R.
+
+    5. IBIMUS IN DOMVM DOMINI PEX FORSTER A M VIC
+         CHRISTOPER HODSON MADE ME 1694 IO EVANS
+         CHV W.
+
+    6. OSVALDUS FLOREM MEREOR QVIA GESTO TENOREM
+         PEX FORSTER AM VIC IO EVANS IS WH RW
+         CW 94.
+
+The second bell was cast in 1885.
+
+#S. Margaret's# Parish Church is situated on the steep hill called
+Crossgate. It is opposite to and across the river from the Castle, and
+from its churchyard a fine western view of the cathedral is obtained.
+The church was built during the early part of the episcopate of Bishop
+Pudsey (1154) and was formerly a chapel under the church of S. Oswald.
+Here again alterations and restorations have obliterated much that
+originally existed. The church at present consists of a nave and aisles,
+a chancel with aisles, a western tower, and north and south porches. The
+existing portions of the original church are the chancel arch, and the
+south arcade of four bays, together with part of the clerestory and the
+north wall of the chancel. The arcade consists of low massive circular
+piers, with cushion capitals and plain chamfered abaci, which support
+semi-circular arches of one order also chamfered.
+
+The north arcade is also Norman, and very similar in character to that
+of S. Oswald. No doubt it is of the same date, and probably built by the
+same architect. The chancel arch has two orders, recessed square and
+chamfered, with a plain chamfered hood mould. On both north and south
+sides of the arch is a squint. With the exception of two which are
+Norman, the windows are nearly all of modern date. One is in the north
+wall of the chancel and is widely splayed. It is not seen on the outside
+owing to the vestry which now covers it. The other, a very interesting
+specimen, is situated over the western bay of the south arcade, and is a
+portion of the original clerestory and the earliest known clerestory
+window in the county. The roof of the nave is of oak, and a good
+specimen of Perpendicular work. The tower is of fifteenth-century date,
+and exceedingly plain externally, but vaulted in the interior. It opens
+on to the church by an arch which has been inserted in the west wall.
+There is an interesting font of Frosterley marble, which is apparently
+of the same date as the chancel. The vestry which is raised above the
+level of the church floor is of the fifteenth century, and has on its
+gable the original gable cross.
+
+[Illustration: The Cathedral and Castle, from the North.]
+
+The Parish Church of #S. Giles# occupies a very elevated position at
+the north-east end of the city, and commands one of the finest views of
+the cathedral, castle, and city, which it is possible to obtain. It was
+built by Bishop Flambard and finished as early as 1112; but the north
+wall of the nave, containing two small Norman windows, widely splayed
+inwards, and a walled-up doorway is all that remains of this early
+church. The chancel is of later Norman of the time of Pudsey. Both
+within and without a bold chamfered string course runs round the
+chancel. On the south side is a semi-circular headed window, with a
+carved dripstone and nook shafts, the capitals of which bear a similar
+character to those in the Galilee Chapel of the cathedral. In the north
+wall of the chancel is the priests' door, now walled up, and the corbels
+and springers of the original chancel arch built by Pudsey. The present
+arch was erected in 1876. In 1414 considerable alterations were made
+during the episcopate of Bishop Langley, when the walls of the nave were
+raised, the upper stage of the tower built, and the west window
+inserted. The font is a fine stone bowl resting on a shaft, and is
+undoubtedly of the time of Flambard. The chancel contains some monuments
+of the Tempest and Heath families, who were the ancestors of the
+Marchioness of Londonderry, patroness of the church and parish of S.
+Giles. The tower contains three bells, the first and second of which are
+pre-Reformation and the third bears the date 1646.
+
+On the north side of Gilesgate near to the North-Eastern goods station,
+are the ruins of the little #Chapel of S. Mary Magdalen#, of which
+only a small portion remains. At the west end of the north and south
+walls are two doorways, the latter walled up. Portions of the east
+window are still in position, but it would appear to have been of
+earlier date than the surrounding walls, and probably had been brought
+from some other building. In the interior are the remains of a
+Frosterley marble font, and a gable cross of thirteenth-century date is
+in the custody of the dean and chapter. The chapel was 43 feet by 16œ
+feet wide. It is supposed to have been founded by Sir John Fitz
+Alexander. In 1370 it was almost entirely rebuilt, and again in 1449, on
+a site near the original one. The reason for this was the moisture of
+the ground, which caused the foundations to become insecure. The
+government was in the hands of the almoner of the cathedral, who
+distributed doles to the poor. The chapel was used as a place of worship
+until nearly the end of the seventeenth century, when, owing to its
+ruinous condition, services were finally discontinued.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+[Illustration: PLAN AND DIMENSIONS.]
+
+PRINCIPAL DIMENSIONS OF THE CATHEDRAL
+
+                                       Feet. Inches.
+Length of Nave                           201   0
+Width of Nave                             39   0
+Width of Nave Aisles                      21   0
+Length of North Transept                  66   0
+Length of South Transept                  66   0
+Width of Transepts                        37   0
+Length of Choir                          132   6
+Width of Choir                            39   6
+Width of Choir Aisles                     19   0
+Length of Nine Altars Chapel             131   0
+Width of Nine Altars Chapel               38   6
+Height of Vaulting of Nine Altars Chapel  77   0
+Height of Vaulting of Choir               74   6
+Height of Vaulting of Nave                72   0
+Height of Vaulting of Lantern            155   0
+Width of Lantern E. to W.                 40   6
+Width of Lantern N. to S.                 39   0
+Height of Tower Arches                    68   6
+Length of Galilee Chapel                  77   0
+Width of Galilee                          49   0
+Height of Western Towers                 144   6
+Height of Central Tower                  218   0
+Total length of Church (interior)        469   6
+Thickness of Wall at West End              8   0
+
+AREA                               44,400 sq. ft.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+Transcriber's Notes:
+
+1. Words and phrases which were italicized in the original have been
+   surrounded by underscores ('_') in this version. Words or phrases
+   which were bolded have been surrounded by pound signs ('#').
+
+2. Obvious printer's errors have been corrected without note.
+
+3. Inconsistencies in hyphenation or the spelling of proper names, and
+   dialect or obsolete word spelling, has been maintained as in the
+   original.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral
+Church of Durham, by J. E. Bygate
+
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+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Cathedral Church of DURHAM by J. E. Bygate.
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral Church of
+Durham, by J. E. Bygate
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral Church of Durham
+       A Description of Its Fabric and A Brief History of the Episcopal See
+
+Author: J. E. Bygate
+
+Release Date: December 26, 2006 [EBook #20191]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF DURHAM ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Jonathan Ingram, David Cortesi and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<a name="image01" id="image01"></a>
+<a href="images/image01.jpg">
+<img src="images/image01_th.jpg" alt="Durham Cathedral, from the South-West" title="Durham Cathedral, from the South-West" /></a><br />
+<span class="caption">Durham Cathedral, from the South-West.</span>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+<h1><a name='Page_Title' id='Page_Title'></a>
+The Cathedral Church Of<br />
+<big>DURHAM</big></h1>
+<h2>A Description Of Its Fabric<br />
+And A Brief History Of The<br />
+Episcopal See</h2>
+<h4>By</h4>
+<h3>J.E. Bygate, A.R.C.A.</h3>
+
+
+<h4>WITH FORTY-FOUR
+<a name="image02" id="image02"></a>
+<img style="vertical-align: middle;" src="images/image02.png" alt="Arms of the See" title="Arms of the See" />
+ILLUSTRATIONS</h4>
+
+<h3>London George Bell &amp; Sons 1905</h3>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table summary="Publishing history" >
+ <tr>
+   <td align="left"><i>First Published</i></td>
+   <td align="right"><i>March 1899</i></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+   <td align="left"><i>Second Edition, Revised</i></td>
+   <td align="right"><i>September 1900</i></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+   <td align="left"><i>Reprinted</i></td>
+   <td align="right"><i>1905</i></td>
+ </tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+<h5><i>The Riverside Press Limited, Edinburgh</i></h5>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h2><a name="GENERAL_PREFACE" id="GENERAL_PREFACE"></a>
+GENERAL PREFACE</h2>
+<p>This series of monographs has been planned to supply visitors
+to the great English Cathedrals with accurate and well illustrated
+guide-books at a popular price. The aim of each writer
+has been to produce a work compiled with sufficient knowledge
+and scholarship to be of value to the student of Archæology
+and History, and yet not too technical in language for the use
+of an ordinary visitor or tourist.</p>
+
+<p>To specify all the authorities which have been made use of
+in each case would be difficult and tedious in this place. But
+amongst the general sources of information which have been
+almost invariably found useful are:&mdash;(1) the great county
+histories, the value of which, especially in questions of genealogy
+and local records, is generally recognised; (2) the
+numerous papers by experts which appear from time to
+time in the Transactions of the Antiquarian and Archæological
+Societies; (3) the important documents made accessible in
+the series issued by the Master of the Rolls; (4) the well-known
+works of Britton and Willis on the English Cathedrals;
+and (5) the very excellent series of Handbooks to the
+Cathedrals originated by the late Mr John Murray; to which
+the reader may in most cases be referred for fuller detail,
+especially in reference to the histories of the respective sees.</p>
+
+<hr />
+<h2><a name="AUTHORS_PREFACE" id="AUTHORS_PREFACE"></a>
+AUTHOR'S PREFACE</h2>
+
+<p>As much as possible of this brief description of Durham
+is from the personal acquaintance of the writer with the
+building. Yet many authorities have, of necessity, been consulted
+in its preparation, notably a pamphlet by the Rev.
+Canon W. Greenwell, and the &quot;County of Durham,&quot; by
+J.R. Boyle, F.S.A. Thanks are also due to the authorities
+of the Cathedral for having freely given permission to make
+drawings and measurements, and to the late Mr Weatherall,
+chief verger, for his kindly assistance and information.</p>
+
+<p>The illustrations are chiefly from sketches and drawings by
+the writer, and from photographs reproduced by the kindness
+of the Photochrom Company, Ltd., and Messrs S.B. Bolas
+&amp; Co.</p>
+
+<p style='text-align: right;'>J.E.B.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>
+CONTENTS</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table summary="toc" width="75%">
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.&mdash;The Building of the Church</a></td><td class="tocpn">3</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.&mdash;Description of the Exterior</a></td><td class="tocpn">21</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#II_1">The Towers</a></td><td class="tocpn">21</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#II_2">The East Front</a></td><td class="tocpn">22</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#II_3">The West Front</a></td><td class="tocpn">25</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#II_4">The North Door</a></td><td class="tocpn">25</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#II_5">The South Door</a></td><td class="tocpn">26</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#II_6">The West Door</a></td><td class="tocpn">28</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#II_7">The Cloister</a></td><td class="tocpn">29</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#II_8">The Chapter-House</a></td><td class="tocpn">32</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#II_9">The Dun Cow</a></td><td class="tocpn">35</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.&mdash;Description of the Interior</a></td><td class="tocpn">39</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#III_1">The Nave</a></td><td class="tocpn">39</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#III_2">The Choir</a></td><td class="tocpn">40</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#III_3">The Neville Screen</a></td><td class="tocpn">43</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#III_4">The Transepts</a></td><td class="tocpn">50</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#III_5">The Tower</a></td><td class="tocpn">53</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#III_6">The East End</a></td><td class="tocpn">54</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#III_7">The Chapel of the Nine Altars</a></td><td class="tocpn">61</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#III_8">The Tomb of S. Cuthbert</a></td><td class="tocpn">69</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#III_9">The Galilee or Lady Chapel</a></td><td class="tocpn">72</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#III_10">Monuments in the Nave and Transepts</a></td><td class="tocpn">79</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="tocsb"><a href="#III_11">The Font</a></td><td class="tocpn">81</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.&mdash;History of the See</a></td><td class="tocpn">82</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.&mdash;The Castle and University</a></td><td class="tocpn">102</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.&mdash;The City</a></td><td class="tocpn">111</td></tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h2><a name="ILLUSTRATIONS" id="ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>
+ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table summary="toc" width="75%">
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image01">Durham Cathedral, from the South-West</a></td><td class="tocpn"><i>Frontispiece</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image02">Arms of the See</a></td><td class="tocpn"><i>Title Page</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image03">The Exterior, from the College</a></td><td class="tocpn">2</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image04">The Dun Cow</a></td><td class="tocpn">9</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image05">The West End (from an Old Print)</a></td><td class="tocpn">17</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image06">The Exterior, from Palace Green</a></td><td class="tocpn">20</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image07">The Central Tower</a></td><td class="tocpn">23</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image08">Detail of Ironwork</a></td><td class="tocpn">27</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image09">The Sanctuary Knocker</a></td><td class="tocpn">25</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image10">Ironwork on Doors of Cloisters</a></td><td class="tocpn">27</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image11">Ornament on South Doorway</a></td><td class="tocpn">28</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image12">The Cloister</a></td><td class="tocpn">29</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image13">S. Cuthbert's Chest</a></td><td class="tocpn">32</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image14">The Chapter-House</a></td><td class="tocpn">34</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image15">The Exterior, from the South-East</a></td><td class="tocpn">36</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image16">The Nave, looking West</a></td><td class="tocpn">38</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image17">One Bay of the Nave (Measured Drawing)</a></td><td class="tocpn">40</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image18">Triforium and Clerestory</a></td><td class="tocpn">45</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image19">The Choir, looking West</a></td><td class="tocpn">47</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image20">The Transepts, looking North</a></td><td class="tocpn">50</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image21">Corbels in Choir</a></td><td class="tocpn">54,58</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image22">The Choir, looking East</a></td><td class="tocpn">55</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image23">Triforium of Nave and Choir</a></td><td class="tocpn">59</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image24">Plan of Norman East End</a></td><td class="tocpn">58</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image25">Sections of Hood and Arch Mouldings</a></td><td class="tocpn">62</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image26">Capitals in the Nine Altars Chapel</a></td><td class="tocpn">62</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image27">The Nine Altars Chapel</a></td><td class="tocpn">63</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image28">Capital in Galilee Chapel</a></td><td class="tocpn">66</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image29">The Galilee Chapel</a></td><td class="tocpn">67, 72</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image30">Paintings in the Galilee Chapel</a></td><td class="tocpn">74</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image31">Detail of the Galilee Chapel</a></td><td class="tocpn">75</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image32">The Font and Cover</a></td><td class="tocpn">81</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image33">The Crypt</a></td><td class="tocpn">85</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image34">Stone Coffin Lid</a></td><td class="tocpn">88</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image35">The Chapter Library</a></td><td class="tocpn">101</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image36">The Chapel or Crypt, Durham Castle</a></td><td class="tocpn">102</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image37">Staircase in the Castle</a></td><td class="tocpn">107</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image38">The Cathedral and Castle, from the North</a></td><td class="tocpn">113</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#image39">PLAN AND DIMENSIONS</a></td><td class="tocpn">118</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+<hr />
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+
+<a name="image03" id="image03"></a>
+<a href="images/image03.jpg">
+<img src="images/image03_th.jpg" alt="The Exterior, from the College" title="The Exterior, from the College" /></a><br />
+<span class="caption">The Exterior, from the College.</span>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+<p><a name='Page_3' id='Page_3'></a><span class="pagenum">3</span></p>
+<h1>
+DURHAM CATHEDRAL</h1>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a href="#CONTENTS">Table of<br />Contents</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>
+CHAPTER I<br />
+<span class="subtitle">The Building Of The Church</span></h2>
+
+<p>The traveller northward by the East Coast Route cannot fail
+to be struck by the beauty of the city of Durham, with its
+red-roofed houses nestling beneath the majestic site of the
+cathedral and castle. For splendid position the Cathedral
+of Durham stands unequalled in this country; on the Continent,
+perhaps that of Albi can alone be compared with it
+in this respect. The cathedral and Norman Castle are upon
+the summit of a lofty tongue of land which is almost surrounded
+by the River Wear. In parts the banks are rocky
+and steep, in others thickly wooded. The river itself is
+spanned here and there by fine and historic bridges.</p>
+
+<p>The early history of Durham is obscure. There are many
+vague legends in existence, a natural consequence, perhaps,
+when we remember the various and often speedy changes of
+ownership to which that part of the country was for centuries
+subjected.</p>
+
+<p>To lead up clearly to the founding of the Cathedral of
+Durham, it will be necessary to describe briefly the earliest
+introduction of Christianity into the north of England. That
+Christianity was known in this country during the time of
+the Romans there is sufficient evidence to prove. There is,
+however, little to show that it existed in the north to any
+appreciable extent. All or nearly all the carved stones, altars,
+etc., disinterred in that part of the country have been of
+undoubted Pagan origin.</p>
+
+<p>The ancient kingdom of Northumbria comprised the
+present counties of Durham, Northumberland, and Yorkshire,
+and a part of the south-east of Scotland as far north as the
+<a name='Page_4' id='Page_4'></a><span class="pagenum">4</span>Firth
+of Forth. This kingdom was sub-divided into two
+portions. The Southern, or Deira, extended from the Tees
+to the Humber, and the Northern, or Bernicia, reached from
+the Tees to the Firth of Forth. The province of Bernicia
+was settled about A.D. 547 by Ida, a chief of the Angles, who
+made his headquarters on a steep rock on the sea-coast about
+sixteen miles south of Berwick. He was succeeded by his son
+Ethelric, who built himself a stronghold, which he named after
+his wife Bebbanburgh, a name still retained in a shortened
+form&mdash;Bamburgh. Ethelric was followed by Ella, whose son
+Edwin was driven into exile by his fierce brother-in-law,
+Ethelfrith, and took possession of Deira, the southern province
+of Northumbria. After attaining his majority, Edwin,
+assisted by Redwald, regained his kingdom, and eventually
+ruled over the whole of Northumbria; it is during his reign
+that we find the first authentic history of Christianity in the
+north. Edwin married Ethelburga, a daughter of Ethelbert,
+king of Kent, who had been converted to Christianity by
+the preaching of S. Augustine. He himself received baptism
+at the hands of Paulinus (625-633), the great Roman
+missionary, who was sent north with the Princess Ethelburga.
+Paulinus fixed his headquarters at York, where he built his
+church, the forerunner of the present cathedral. This
+attempt of the Romans to christianise Northumbria was,
+however, of short duration. Cadwalla and Penda rose
+against them, and Edwin fell in battle at Hatfield Moor in
+Yorkshire. Paulinus, despairing of the cause, returned to
+Kent with the queen-widow Ethelburga and her children;
+and under Cadwalla and Penda, the kingdom soon relapsed
+into Paganism.</p>
+
+<p>We must now direct our attention to a small, barren island
+on the west coast of Scotland, Iona. Here came a voluntary
+exile (A.D. 563), Columba, a monk, said to have been a
+descendant of the Irish kings. Here he lived and founded
+a great missionary monastery, which afterwards became the
+centre of Christian influence in Scotland and the north of
+England. He and his followers were active workers; they
+wrote Gospels and devotional books, preached, and built
+churches of wood. Columba died (A.D. 597), but his work
+was continued.</p>
+
+<p>In 634, Oswald, a son of Ethelfrith, became king
+of<a name='Page_5' id='Page_5'></a><span class="pagenum">5</span>
+Northumbria. In his youth he, with his brothers, had been
+obliged to flee to Scotland, where, during his exile, Oswald
+was converted to Christianity by the teachers of Iona. On
+his return he defeated and killed Cadwalla at Hevenfeld,
+or Heavenfield, near Hexham, in 634, and became the means
+of finally introducing Christianity into his kingdom. Soon
+after he became king, Oswald sent to Iona for help, and in
+reply came a monk, who, for some reason, said by old writers
+to be his harshness, failed in his mission. He was replaced
+by another monk named Aidan (635-651), who was eminently
+successful. Beda speaks of him as &quot;a man of great piety
+and zeal, combined with tender charity and gentleness.&quot;
+Aidan became intimately associated with King Oswald, the
+two working together, and he chose for his headquarters the
+small sandy island of Lindisfarne, off the Northumbrian coast,
+which we now know as &quot;Holy Island.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Lindisfarne thus resembled Iona, and it is probable that
+the similarity of position and surroundings influenced Aidan
+in his choice. However that may be, Aidan there founded
+his monastery and directed the work of his monks.</p>
+
+<p>Passing over a short period, we find at Lindisfarne a
+monk who is so intimately connected with this cathedral that
+he demands special attention&mdash;the great S. Cuthbert, sixth
+bishop of Lindisfarne, and the patron saint of Durham. Little
+is known of his birth and parentage. Some writers give him
+a Scotch origin, others Irish,<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href='#Footnote_A_1' class="fnanchor">1</a>
+and others again say he was
+born of humble parents on the banks of the Tweed. The
+latter is most probable. Certain it is that at an early age
+he was left an orphan, and was employed as an under-shepherd
+near to Melrose. From his earliest youth he was thoughtful
+and pious, and watched and imitated in his mode of life
+the monks of Melrose. There are numerous legends and
+stories of S. Cuthbert's youth. He is said to have wrought
+many miracles, even to the extent of stilling a tempest. One
+of these may be told here on account of the share it played
+in his choice of monastic life:&mdash;On a certain night in A.D. 651,
+while tending his sheep, his companions being asleep,
+Cuthbert<a name='Page_6' id='Page_6'></a><span class="pagenum">6</span>
+saw in the heavens a brilliant shaft of light, and angels
+descending. These very shortly re-ascended, bearing among
+them &quot;a spirit of surpassing brightness.&quot; In the morning it
+was found that the good S. Aidan was dead. The vision
+had a marked and lasting effect on Cuthbert, and eventually
+resulted in his entering the monastery at Melrose. For ten
+years Cuthbert led a holy and studious life at Melrose, under
+Prior Boisil, when he was chosen among others to proceed
+to the newly-founded monastery at Ripon. His sojourn
+there was, however, short, as owing to doctrinal differences
+concerning the celebration of Easter, he and the other
+Scottish monks returned to Melrose. Some four years later,
+on the death of Boisil, Cuthbert was elected his successor,
+as prior of Melrose. In A.D. 664, we find him holding the
+same office at Lindisfarne, where he remained for twelve
+years. He then retired from his position, in order to attain
+a higher degree of Christian perfection by living a solitary
+life, first on a small island near Lindisfarne, and afterwards
+on the island of Farne, near Bamburgh. There are many
+stories told of his great piety at this time, so that even the
+wild sea-birds are said to have obeyed him.</p>
+
+<p>In the year A.D. 685 Cuthbert was, though against his own
+wishes, consecrated Bishop of Lindisfarne. His great activity
+and usefulness in this office was soon cut short, for in less
+than two years, on the 20th of March A.D. 687, he died.
+Obediently to his own request, his body was wrapped in a
+linen cloth, which had been given him by the Abbess Yerca;
+and, placed in a stone coffin, the gift of the Abbot Cudda, was
+interred in the church at Lindisfarne. He was not to rest,
+however. In A.D. 698 the monks disinterred his remains in
+order to place them in a specially-prepared wooden coffin. It
+is said they found the saint's body perfectly incorrupt. To
+quote the quaint Hegge:</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p>But whiles they opened his coffin, they start at a wonder,
+they look't for bones and found flesh, they expected a skeleton,
+and saw an entire bodie, with joynts flexible, his flesh so
+succulent, that there only wanted heate to make his bodie live
+without a soul, and his face so dissembling death, that elsewhere
+it is true that sleep is the image of death, but here
+death was the image of sleep. Nay, his very funerall weeds
+were so fresh, as if putrefaction had not dared to take him
+<a name='Page_7' id='Page_7'></a><span class="pagenum">7</span>by
+the coat.<a name="FNanchor_B_2" id="FNanchor_B_2"></a><a href='#Footnote_B_2' class="fnanchor">2</a></p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p>Whatever may be the truth of this, his body
+was placed in a wooden coffin, portions of which are still
+preserved in the chapter library at Durham.</p>
+
+<p>Over a century and a half after these events the coast of
+Northumbria was disturbed and troubled by the piratical
+invasions of the Danes. The number and violence of these
+incursions so increased that the whole country lay practically
+at their mercy. Becoming alarmed for their own safety and
+that of their holy relics, the monks of Lindisfarne fled, taking
+with them the body of their saint, and all their sacred vessels
+and books. This occurred in A.D. 875.</p>
+
+<p>Here commenced that long wandering which eventually
+ended in the founding of the Cathedral Church of Durham,
+where the bones of S. Cuthbert found their final resting-place.</p>
+
+<p>Bishop Eardulph and his monks, with their sacred charge,
+travelled for seven years, over a great portion of the north of
+England and part of the south of Scotland. Many churches
+dedicated to S. Cuthbert in the north are thought to mark their
+resting-places. From a list of these given by Prior Wessington
+the probable route of the wanderers can be approximately,
+made out as follows:&mdash;First to Elsdon and down the Rede to
+Haydon Bridge. Up the South Tyne to Beltinghame, and then
+following the route of the Roman Wall to Bewcastle. Turning
+south to Salkeld, and thence by Eden Hall and Plumbland
+into Lancashire, towards the river Derwent. Here they came
+to a determination to cross to Ireland, and took ship from the
+mouth of the Derwent. Very soon a violent storm arose, the
+vessel became unmanageable and was nearly filled with water,
+which, according to Symeon, immediately turned into blood.
+A return was inevitable. It was during this attempt that the
+famous copy of the Gospels, known as the Durham Book, was
+washed overboard into the sea. This book is, perhaps, the
+most beautiful example of Anglo-Saxon writing and illumination
+extant, and is surpassed only by the celebrated Irish MS.,
+the Book of Kells. It was shortly afterwards found on
+the coast in a comparatively uninjured condition; and is
+now preserved in the British Museum. The wandering
+monks next turned northwards as far as Witherne, on the
+Galloway coast, and then returned to England, through
+<a name='Page_8' id='Page_8'></a><span class="pagenum">8</span>Westmoreland
+and across Stainmoor into Teesdale, staying for
+a time at a village, which no doubt owes it present name
+Cotherstone to this circumstance. Leaving here and crossing
+the hills, through Marske, Forcett and Barton, they arrived at
+the abbey of Craike, near Easingwold, where they were kindly
+treated by the abbot, and remained about four months. On
+resuming their journey the monks removed the body of
+S. Cuthbert to Cuncachester, or, as we now know it, Chester-le-Street,
+a former Roman camp. Here the fraternity remained
+for a hundred and thirteen years; and here was the seat of
+the Bishopric of Bernicia until A.D. 995. Many are the legends
+clustering round these journeyings. How, when leaving Lindisfarne,
+the sea opened a passage for them, and how in more
+than one difficulty the dead saint himself gave them assistance.
+Notably, on one occasion when the bearers were
+worn out and weary he appeared and showed them where
+they would find a horse and car in which to carry their
+burden. This horse and car were afterwards used on their
+journeys.</p>
+
+<p>In the year 995, again for safety, they removed once more
+under Bishop Aldhun, first for a short time to Ripon, and
+then finally to Durham. It is of this last journey the following
+story is told:&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p>&quot;Coming with him&quot; (<i>v.</i> Sanderson), &quot;on the <i>East</i> Side of
+<i>Durham</i>, to a Place call'd <i>Wardenlawe,</i> they could not
+with all their Force remove his body further, for it seemed
+fastened to the Ground; which strange and unforeseen
+Accident produced great Astonishment in the Hearts of
+the Bishop, the Monks, and their Associates; whereupon
+they fasted and prayed three Days with great Devotion,
+to know by Revelation from God, what to do with the holy
+Body, which was soon granted to them, it being revealed
+to <i>Eadmer</i>, a virtuous Man, that he should be carried to
+<i>Dunholme</i>, where he was to be received to a Place of Rest.
+They were again in great Distress, in not knowing where
+<i>Dunholme</i> lay; but as they proceeded, a Woman wanting
+her Cow, called aloud to her Companion, to know if she had
+seen her? Who answered, She was in <i>Dunholme</i>. This
+was an happy and heavenly Sound to the distressed Monks,
+who thereby had Intelligence that their Journey's End was
+at Hand, and the Saint's Body near its Resting-place;
+thereupon with great Joy they arrived with his Body at
+<i>Dunholme</i>, in the Year 997.&quot;</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p><a name='Page_9' id='Page_9'></a><span class="pagenum">9</span></p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<a name="image04" id="image04"></a>
+<a href="images/image04.jpg">
+<img src="images/image04_th.jpg" alt="The Dun Cow." title="The Dun Cow." /></a><br />
+<span class="caption">The Dun Cow.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name='Page_11' id='Page_11'></a><span class="pagenum">11</span>
+Arrived at Dunholm they raised a &quot;little Church of Wands
+and Branches&quot; to protect the sacred relics until a building
+more worthy of such a charge could be erected. This was
+the beginning of the Cathedral and City of Durham.</p>
+
+<p>The condition of the place at this time must have been
+very wild, and it certainly was a natural stronghold. The
+only open spot seems to have been the plateau where the
+cathedral now stands. The site is curiously described in a
+Saxon poem, from which the following is a translation:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table summary="center poem">
+<tr><td align="left">
+    The City is celebrated<br />
+    In the whole Empire of the Britons<br />
+    The road to it is steep<br />
+    It is surrounded with rocks<br />
+    And with curious plants<br />
+    The Wear flows round it<br />
+    A river of rapid waves<br />
+    And there live in it<br />
+    Fishes of various kinds<br />
+    Mingling with the floods.<br />
+    And there grow<br />
+    Great Forests,<br />
+    There live in the recesses<br />
+    Wild Animals of many sorts<br />
+    In the deep valleys<br />
+    Deer innumerable.
+</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>As soon as possible a stone chapel was built, in which the
+body of S. Cuthbert was placed. Bishop Aldhun, not satisfied
+with this, determined to establish a great church. Work was
+immediately commenced and progressed so rapidly that the
+building, known as &quot;the White Church,&quot; was consecrated in
+A.D. 999. Of this there would seem to be no authentic
+remains existing; although some authorities think portions
+of it are included in the present cathedral. Bishop Aldhun
+died in 1018. The next date of importance is the year 1081,
+when William of Saint Carileph was appointed Bishop by the
+Conqueror. He was a monk of the Benedictine order, and
+at once drove out and dispossessed the secular clergy at
+Durham, replacing them from the Benedictine Monasteries
+which were established at Jarrow and Monkwearmouth.
+Bishop Carileph is the man to whom we owe the present
+Cathedral of Durham. In 1088 he was obliged to flee into
+<a name='Page_12' id='Page_12'></a><span class="pagenum">12</span>
+exile in Normandy, where he remained three years, through
+his having taken part in the rebellion against William II.
+It was probably during this time of banishment that he conceived
+the idea that if he returned to Durham he would
+build a more worthy church, such as were already erected
+and in course of construction in Normandy.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after his return in 1091 he commenced to carry out
+his scheme; and we learn that on the 11th of August 1093, the
+foundation stone of the new church was laid, with great pomp.</p>
+
+<p>The work proceeded rapidly, commencing at the east
+end. By the time of Bishop Carileph's death, which occurred
+in 1096, the walls of the choir, the eastern walls of the
+transepts, the tower arches, and a portion of the first bay of
+the nave, were completed. It is also very probable that the
+lower portion of the walls of the whole church are of Carileph's
+time.</p>
+
+<p>After the death of Bishop Carileph the see of Durham remained
+vacant for three years. The monks, however, were
+not idle during this period, and they continued the work
+vigorously, completing the west walls of the transepts and the
+vaulting of the north transept. In 1099 Ralph Flambard
+was appointed bishop, and he held the office until 1128. He
+carried on the building as the funds at his disposal would
+allow, sometimes rapidly and at others more slowly. Before
+his death it would appear that he completed the nave as
+high as the wall plates and altogether finished and roofed
+the aisles. The western towers as far as the height of the
+roof of the nave are also the work of Flambard. In 1104 the
+work was so far advanced as to permit the removal of the
+body of S. Cuthbert, from the temporary shrine which Bishop
+Carileph had erected over it, into the new church. This
+ceremony was performed on August 29th, 1104, and the
+coffin was placed in a shrine behind the high altar.</p>
+
+<p>On Flambard's death in 1128 the see was again left vacant
+for five years, but we are told that the monks continued the
+work and completed the nave. The portion built by them
+at this time must of necessity have been the vaulting and
+roof, the architectural features of which are quite in accordance
+with the date, being late Norman.</p>
+
+<p>Flambard's successor was Galfrid Rufus, who was Bishop
+from 1133 to 1140.</p>
+
+<p><a name='Page_13' id='Page_13'></a><span class="pagenum">13</span>
+During his episcopate the chapter-house, which had been
+commenced by the monks, was completed. Rufus also
+replaced the then existing north and south doorways of the
+nave, by those standing to-day.</p>
+
+<p>The next bishop, William de St Barbara (1143 to 1152),
+does not appear to have added anything to the cathedral.
+During his time of office the see was usurped by William
+Cummin, and building operations were no doubt neglected
+through the troubles arising from the usurpation. His successor,
+Hugh Pudsey (1153 to 1195) was, however, a great builder;
+appointed to the see at a comparatively early age, and, living
+as he did, at a time when very great changes were taking place
+in architectural style, he was able to carry out a great deal
+of beautiful work.</p>
+
+<p>He began to build a Lady Chapel at the east end of the
+choir, but although he had made careful preparations, and
+engaged skilled architects and workmen, great cracks appeared
+in the walls before the work had proceeded far, and the
+building was stopped. Bishop Pudsey, taking this as a
+divine revelation that the work was not pleasing to God,
+and the patron S. Cuthbert, abandoned it and commenced
+another chapel at the west end of the church, using in its
+erection the Purbeck marble bases and columns which he had
+had prepared for his eastern chapel. This second attempt
+was successful and remains to us in that beautiful and unique
+specimen of Transitional work, the Galilee Chapel. Its date
+may be taken, says Canon Greenwell, &quot;as about the year
+1175.&quot; Besides this work Pudsey built the hall and solar now
+called (at the top) the &quot;Norman Gallery&quot; of Durham Castle.</p>
+
+<p>Little or nothing further seems to have been done until the
+translation of Bishop Poore from the see of Sarum to Durham
+in 1229. The name of Bishop Poore is inseparably connected
+with the building of the present Salisbury Cathedral,
+and after his removal to Durham he conceived the idea of,
+and made preparations for, commencing the eastern transept
+of the Cathedral, which is a special feature of Durham, now
+known as the Chapel of the Nine Altars. He was not,
+however, destined to live to see his idea carried out.</p>
+
+<p>The eastern termination of Carileph's choir had been apsidal;
+it was found to be in a very unsafe condition, cracks and
+fissures appearing in the walls. Various bishops and priors
+<a name='Page_14' id='Page_14'></a><span class="pagenum">14</span>
+sent aid towards &quot;the new work,&quot; but actual building did not
+commence until after the death of Bishop Poore in 1237. The
+erection was commenced by Prior Melsanby and, of course,
+necessitated the taking down of Carileph's apses. The
+revaulting of the choir was undertaken at this time, doubtless,
+for artistic reasons, to bring the new work into harmony
+with the old. The Chapel of the Nine Altars is a rare and
+valuable specimen of Early English Gothic architecture of
+remarkable and graceful design. Below each of its nine
+lancet windows was originally an altar, dedicated to different
+saints. Its great height was obtained by lowering the floor, so
+that the unity of the whole exterior should not be destroyed.
+Prior Melsanby is also said to have put a new roof on the
+church.</p>
+
+<p>Prior Hugh de Derlington, who was at the head of affairs
+from 1258 to 1272, and later from 1285 to 1289, added a belfry
+to the central tower.</p>
+
+<p>John Fossor, made prior of Durham in 1342, inserted the
+large window in the north transept and the west windows of
+the nave.</p>
+
+<p>Bishop Thomas de Hatfield (1346 to 1381) seems to have
+done no architectural work beyond the erection of his own
+throne and tomb (in which he was afterwards buried) on the
+south side of the choir. This is an elaborate and sumptuous
+piece of work, and shows remains of rich colouring and gilding.
+About this time, also, the beautiful altar screen known
+as the Neville screen was erected. Its cost was principally
+borne by Lord John Neville, though the Priors Fossor and
+Berrington and the subordinate cells of Jarrow and Monkwearmouth
+were also contributors. The screen is of stone&mdash;very
+light and graceful, and originally contained in the niches
+107 figures, which have unfortunately been destroyed.</p>
+
+<p>Bishop Walter de Skirlaw, who occupied the episcopal throne
+from 1388 to 1405, was a great builder. To him mainly we
+owe the present cloisters, though they were completed by his
+successor, Cardinal Langley, in 1418.</p>
+
+<p>The monks' dormitory on the western side of the cloister
+is also of this time. On the southern side was the refectory.
+This portion was rebuilt by Dean Sudbury between 1661 and
+1684 and converted into a library, and such it remains to-day.</p>
+
+<p>Near the refectory is the kitchen, built by Prior Fossor. It
+<a name='Page_15' id='Page_15'></a><span class="pagenum">15</span>
+is octagonal in plan, and possesses a fine groined roof. It is
+now attached to the deanery, and known as the dean's
+kitchen.</p>
+
+<p>We must now turn our attention to the erection of the
+present central tower. The belfry added by Hugh de
+Derlington was in 1429 struck by lightning and set on fire.
+It must after this have been repaired in some way, but in
+1456 it was in a very unsafe and dangerous condition, as the
+following letter written by the prior, William Ebchester, to
+Bishop Neville testifies:&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p>&quot;The Belfry of your church, both in its masonry and
+timber, in consequence of winds and storms is so enfeebled
+and shaken, that doubts are entertained of its
+standing for any length of time. We have called in
+workmen in both capacities, and they have reported to us
+that three of its sides are out of perpendicular, that many
+of the Key and cornerstones of its windows have fallen
+out, that in other respects it is defective, and that besides,
+its woodwork is in a state of great decay so that it cannot
+be expected to stand for any length of time. Some are of
+opinion that the belfry should be totally removed as it
+cannot stand longer; others on the contrary, wish it to
+be perfectly restored; a thing which exceeds our means,
+unless we have the advantage of charitable aid. In this
+state of doubt and hesitation, we have recourse to you, as
+members to their head, presuming not to engage in any
+such great and stupendous alteration with reference to your
+church, without your advice.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;If, which God forbid, the tower should fall, the solemn
+fabric of our choir, and the shrine of our most holy patron,
+would without doubt, be broken down and irrevocably laid
+flat on the ground, for that is the direction in which it leans.
+We confess that whenever winds and storms are high, and
+we are standing at our duty in that part of the church we
+tremble for our fate, having positive danger before our eyes.&quot;</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p>Shortly afterwards, the rebuilding of all the upper part of
+the central tower was commenced and continued for some
+years. It was not complete in 1474 when Richard Bell was
+prior, as in a letter written at the time he mentions the
+&quot;reedificacion of our steeple, begun but nogt fynyshed, in
+defaulte of goods, as God knoweth.&quot; It is therefore most
+<a name='Page_16' id='Page_16'></a><span class="pagenum">16</span>
+probable that the upper portion was not completed until
+towards the close of the fifteenth century.</p>
+
+<p>We have now reached a period when the glories of Gothic
+architecture were fading, during which many of our finest
+churches suffered considerably. Durham is no exception to the
+rule, and we find during the next two centuries a long record
+of destruction and so-called improvement. This, perhaps,
+reached its worst stage during the time of Wyatt, who in 1796
+pulled down the magnificent Norman chapter-house. During
+the last decade, however, this has been completely rebuilt
+from as nearly as possible the original design. Wyatt also
+rebuilt the turrets on the eastern transept or Nine Altar Chapel
+from his own design, and removed the great Early English
+rose window in the east end and replaced it by the present
+one. The original stained glass was taken out of all the
+windows of the east end, and Raine, in his history, tells us
+that it &quot;lay for a long time afterwards in baskets upon the
+floor, and when the greater part of it had been purloined,
+the remainder was locked up in the Galilee.... At a still
+later period, about fifteen years ago, portions of it were
+placed in the great round window, and the rest still remains
+unappropriated.&quot; This was written in 1833. It is also on
+record that Wyatt formed a scheme to re-open the great
+western doorway of the cathedral by the pulling down of the
+Galilee Chapel, from which he intended constructing a carriage-drive
+to the castle. This abomination was actually commenced
+when Dean Cornwallis arrived, and he, with the assistance
+of John Carter, and the Society of Antiquaries, was fortunately
+able to put a stop to it. Thus was this beautiful and unique
+specimen of Transitional Norman architecture preserved to us.</p>
+
+<p>Wyatt contemplated several other &quot;improvements&quot; of a
+similar character, one of which was the surmounting of the
+central tower by a spire, but fortunately he was not allowed
+to carry them out.</p>
+
+<p>During the present century many restorations have been
+made, of which we will mention only the most notable:&mdash;The
+central tower was restored by Sir Gilbert Scott in
+1859.<a name='Page_17' id='Page_17'></a><span class="pagenum">17</span>
+</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<a name="image05" id="image05"></a>
+<a href="images/image05.png"><img src="images/image05_th.png" alt="The West End (from an Old Print)." title="The West End (from an Old Print)." />
+</a><br />
+<span class="caption">The West End in the Seventeenth Century.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name='Page_18' id='Page_18'></a><span class="pagenum">18</span>
+During 1870 to 1876 extensive internal alterations were
+made. A new choir screen and pulpit were erected, the floor
+of the choir laid in marble mosaic, the choir stalls returned to
+their original positions, and the walls of the church scraped in
+order to clear them from the many coats of lime and distemper
+which lay on them.</p>
+
+<p>The Norman chapter-house has lately been restored and in
+great part rebuilt as a memorial to the late Bishop Lightfoot.
+</p>
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><a name='Page_20' id='Page_20'></a><span class="pagenum">20</span></p>
+<div class="center">
+<a name="image06" id="image06"></a>
+<a href="images/image06.jpg"><img src="images/image06_th.jpg" alt="The Exterior, From Palace Green." title="The Exterior, From Palace Green." />
+</a><br />
+<span class="caption">The Exterior, From Palace Green.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a href="#CONTENTS">Table of<br />Contents</a><br />21</span><a name='Page_21' id='Page_21'></a></p>
+
+<h2>
+<a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II<br />
+<span class="subtitle">Description of the Exterior</span></h2>
+
+<p>Approaching the Cathedral Church of Durham from the north
+by the large open space between it and the Castle, known as
+the Palace Green, we obtain a complete elevation of the whole
+structure. There is little room to doubt, though the details
+naturally vary with the date of erection, that the original plan
+of Carileph's church has been carried out in its entirety,
+with two exceptions. These are the addition of the eastern
+transept or nine altar chapel at the east, and the Galilee or
+Lady Chapel at the west end. The entire length of the building,
+not including the Galilee chapel, is 431 feet, which is made up
+as follows:&mdash;Nine altar chapel 51 feet, the choir 120 feet, the
+transept 57 feet, and the nave 203 feet.</p>
+
+<p><a name="II_1" id="II_1"></a>The <b>Western Towers</b> are square and solid, and were
+evidently included in Carileph's own scheme, as the wall
+arcades on both the interior and exterior are carried round
+them. The Norman work is continued as far as the nave roof,
+and it is extremely probable that they were originally terminated
+at this height, in accordance with the Norman custom, with low
+pyramidal spires, probably of wood. Exactly at what date they
+were raised is not on record, but the style of architecture of
+the upper portion suggests the early part of the thirteenth.
+century. The added portion, namely that above the clerestory,
+consists of four stages, and is beautifully varied by moulded
+arcading, with blind and open arches. The first and third
+stages have pointed arches, while those of the second and
+fourth are round. Above this again were tall wooden spires
+covered with lead. These were removed about the year 1657,
+and towards the close of the eighteenth century the present
+pinnacles and open parapets were added. At this time, also,
+much of the surface of the towers was renewed.</p>
+
+<p>
+The <b>Central Tower.</b>&mdash;The present central tower is noble
+<a name='Page_22' id='Page_22'></a><span class="pagenum">22</span>
+in proportion, and forms a fitting and harmonious summit to
+the whole group. It must needs be of a very different character
+from the old Norman tower, of which no trace now remains;
+and was most probably of the usual type, low and square, and
+surmounted by a short pyramidal spire. The existing structure
+may be attributed to Bishop Booth and Prior Richard Bell,
+about 1474, when the letter previously quoted was written.
+Externally the tower is divided into two storeys. The lower
+portion contains, on each side, a pair of two-light windows,
+glazed, each divided by a transom, and their heads having an
+ogee label crocketed and finished with a tall finial also
+crocketed. Between and on either side of these windows are
+panelled pilasters and brackets carrying figures. The lower
+and upper stages are divided by a narrow external gallery
+running round the tower, and protected by a pierced, embattled
+parapet. This is known as the Bell Ringers' Gallery, and
+certainly adds greatly to the effect of the tower as a whole.
+The upper stage, which is much less lofty, has also two two-light
+windows on each face, surmounted by crocketed ogee
+label mouldings and finials. These lights are louvred. The
+whole is surmounted by a deep open-work parapet. On each
+angle of the tower are two buttresses, which are decorated with
+panelling and canopied and crocketed niches containing figures.
+The interior of the tower or lantern is remarkable for the gallery
+which runs round it, which is reached from the roofs of the nave
+and choir transepts by doors. It rests on corbels, each alternate
+one being carved with grotesque heads, and is protected by a
+parapet pierced in quatrefoils. The four doorways are ogee-headed,
+with crockets and finials. There is strong evidence in
+the construction of the present tower that it was the original
+intention to surmount it by some other erection, probably a spire.
+Each interior angle contains strong and massive squinches
+which are of no constructive use at present, and must have
+been originally inserted to carry some superstructure. The
+buttresses at the angles are also carried up to the parapet,
+which would seem to point to the same conclusion. Why this
+project was never carried out cannot be said, but probably it
+would not have added to the artistic effect of the tower.
+The belfry contains a peal of eight bells.<a name='Page_23' id='Page_23'></a><span class="pagenum">23</span>
+</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<a name="image07" id="image07"></a>
+<a href="images/image07.jpg"><img src="images/image07_th.jpg" alt="The Central Tower." title="The Central Tower." />
+</a><br />
+<span class="caption">The Central Tower, From Palace Green.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="II_2" id="II_2"></a>The <b>East Front.</b>&mdash;The circumstances which led to the
+removal of Carileph's apses and the erection of the eastern
+<a name='Page_25' id='Page_25'></a><span class="pagenum">25</span>
+transept have already been referred to. The present east end
+is divided into three bays by massive buttresses, each of which
+contains three lofty lancet windows separated by smaller
+buttresses. Over all, and in the gable, is the famous large
+rose window. The north and south ends of the transept are
+finished with the tall pyramidal pinnacles erected by Wyatt.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" >
+<a name="image08" id="image08"></a>
+<a href="images/image08.png"><img src="images/image08_th.png" alt="Detail Of Ironwork."  title="Detail Of Ironwork." />
+</a><br />
+<span class="caption">Detail Of Ironwork on South Door.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="II_3" id="II_3"></a>The <b>West Front</b> of Durham has, curiously enough, also
+lost its original character. The western doorway of the
+cathedral is hidden on the exterior by the Galilee or Lady
+Chapel, which was added by Pudsey in 1175. Above the
+Galilee roof is the large window inserted about the year 1346,
+while John Fossor was prior. The pointed arch of this window
+has over it, on the exterior, the original great semi-circular arch.
+Above this again, and between the two flanking western towers,
+is a small gable. The west end of the cathedral, when seen
+from the opposite side of the river, is extremely picturesque.
+The projecting mass of the Galilee, the western towers, the
+foreshortened nave roof, and the majestic central tower behind
+and above, form a group of high and rare excellence.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 220px;" >
+<a name="image09" id="image09"></a>
+<a href="images/image09.png">
+<img src="images/image09_th.png" alt="The Sanctuary Knocker." title="The Sanctuary Knocker." /></a>
+<span class="caption">The Sanctuary Knocker.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="II_4" id="II_4"></a>
+The <b>North Door</b> is now the principal entrance to the
+cathedral. Externally the present porch is the work of Wyatt.
+The first porch was Norman, of four orders depth, with detached
+shafts in the recesses. Above this was a high-pitched gable
+and roof, the front being ornamented with a semi-circular-headed
+wall arcading. The inner side of the doorway is of two orders
+only, and is probably the only remaining portion of the original.
+The outer shaft is left plain, while the inner one, in each case,
+is most elaborately carved. The capitals are all carved, and
+the arch moulds richly ornamented with chevrons, foliage, and
+lozenges, as well as many curious figure subjects.
+While examining this doorway, notice should be taken of the ironwork
+of the door itself, and particularly of the sanctuary knocker.
+In mediæval times all churches afforded sanctuary to wrong-doers,
+but at places where the shrines of saints existed the
+sanctuary privileges were much greater. Durham being one of
+these, there are many curious cases on record of persons claiming
+the privilege, and protection from the secular law. The
+earliest instance, of which any record has been kept, of
+sanctuary being claimed at the shrine of S. Cuthbert is during
+the episcopate of Cynewulf, who was bishop from 740 to 748,
+and the last recorded was in 1524. Criminals claiming
+<a name='Page_26' id='Page_26'></a><span class="pagenum">26</span>
+sanctuary were admitted by two janitors, who occupied two
+small chambers over the doorway, traces of which may still
+be observed. The knocker itself, as may be seen from the
+illustration, is a great grotesque head, made of bronze, and
+hanging from its grinning mouth is
+a ring. Originally, there is no doubt,
+the eyes were filled with crystals or
+enamel, as small claw-like pieces of
+bronze remain by which the filling
+was attached. The age of this piece
+of work is probably the same as that
+of the doorway itself.<a name='Page_27' id='Page_27'></a><span class="pagenum">27</span>
+</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<a name="image10" id="image10"></a>
+<a href="images/image10.png">
+<img src="images/image10_th.png" alt="Ironwork On Doors of Cloisters." title="Ironwork On Doors of Cloisters." />
+</a><br />
+<span class="caption">Ironwork On Doors of Cloisters.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="II_5" id="II_5"></a>
+The <b>South Doorways</b>.&mdash;There
+are two doorways into the south aisle,
+one, known as the Monks' Door,
+opening from the western portion of
+the cloisters and immediately opposite
+the north porch just described. On
+the cloister side this shows a Norman
+arch resting on double shafts, which
+are enriched with a lozenge pattern.
+<a name='Page_28' id='Page_28'></a><span class="pagenum">28</span>
+On the inner or aisle side there are two orders, with
+shafts in the recesses, which are also decorated with the
+lozenge. The inner arch is carved with chevrons, and
+the outer with conventional foliage and medallions. The
+capitals are richly carved with foliage and grotesques. On the
+abacus and arch of this doorway occurs a leaf pattern strongly
+suggesting the Byzantine influence which at one time was found
+in Norman decoration. Here again, on the door itself, we have
+a fine specimen of very elaborate and characteristic Norman
+iron-work. The second, known as the Priors' Door, opens into
+the south aisle from the eastern alley of the cloister, is also
+Norman. The outer or cloister side is of the time of Bishop
+Pudsey, and has an arch of four orders, with three shafts in the
+recesses on either side. Its once elaborate sculpture is now
+much decayed, not enough remaining to suggest that in its
+original state this doorway must have been a noble specimen
+of the architectural design of its period. On the inner side it
+exhibits work of Carileph's time, with an early arch, cushion
+capitals, and shafts.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<a name="image11" id="image11"></a>
+<a href="images/image11.png">
+<img src="images/image11_th.png" alt="Ornament On South Doorway." title="Ornament On South Doorway." />
+</a><br />
+<span class="caption">Ornament On South Doorway.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="II_6" id="II_6"></a>The <b>Western Doorway</b>.&mdash;The exterior of this great doorway
+is now within the Galilee chapel. It was built by Flambard
+(1099-1128), and is comparatively plain. On the Galilee side it
+consists of an arch of four orders ornamented with chevrons.
+The inner face is very similar to the outer, but is shallower,
+having only two orders. The shafts and capitals are without
+decoration, and the arch ornamented with chevron and a leaf
+pattern with medallions carved with grotesque animals. In
+<a name='Page_29' id='Page_29'></a><span class="pagenum">29</span>
+order to reopen this doorway and make a carriage road up to
+it, Wyatt proposed pulling down the Galilee chapel.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<a name="image12" id="image12"></a>
+<a href="images/image12.jpg">
+<img src="images/image12_th.jpg" alt="The Cloister." title="The Cloister." />
+</a><br />
+<span class="caption">The Cloister.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="II_7" id="II_7"></a>The <b>Cloister</b> occupies a large open space, bounded on the
+south, east, and west by the various monastic buildings, and
+on the north by the cathedral itself. The existing cloister was
+commenced during the time of Bishop Skirlaw (1388 to 1406),
+and was completed by Cardinal Langley (who held the see
+from 1406 till 1438), probably in the earlier part of his episcopate.
+The contracts (the first dated 1398) for building the
+cloister are still preserved in the treasury. We are indebted
+to Bishop Skirlaw for their very existence, as it is recorded that
+he contributed sums of money for this purpose, both during his
+life and by his will. The cloister, as seen to-day, has been
+very much altered and restored, and probably the only original
+<a name='Page_30' id='Page_30'></a><span class="pagenum">30</span>feature
+remaining is the fine oaken ceiling. This is panelled,
+and moulded, and decorated with shields, upon which are painted
+and gilded various coats of arms. In the centre of the cloister
+garth are the remains of what was the monks' lavatory. It was
+erected in the years 1432 and 1433, and was of octagonal shape.
+Some of the stone for its construction was brought from
+Egglestone-on-Tees, on payment of rent to the abbot of that place
+to quarry it. It is said to have had twenty-four brass spouts,
+seven windows, and in its upper storey a dovecote, the roof of
+which was covered with lead.</p>
+
+<p>There is no doubt that there was a cloister attached to the
+monastery in its early days, but of this no trace remains. It is
+also probable that one was erected by Bishop Pudsey, though
+this also has entirely vanished, unless (as suggested by Canon
+Greenwell) some marks of a lean-to roof on the north and east
+walls may be traces of its presence. In the western alley of the
+cloister is the old treasury, rich in records, and the vestries for
+canons, king's scholars, and choristers. The alley opens at the
+end into what is now called the crypt  <a href="#Page_85">(see p. 85)</a>. This was undoubtedly
+the common hall of the monks. It is a spacious stone-vaulted
+chamber. The columns are low and massive, with simple
+moulded caps, from which the chamfered vaulting ribs diverge.
+Over the hall or crypt is the dormitory, which for a long time
+formed part of a residence attached to one of the stalls. It is
+now, however, used as a library. It occupies the whole of the
+western side of the cloister, and is 194 feet long. It was
+originally subdivided, by wooden partitions, into separate
+sleeping-rooms for each monk. Its massive roof of oak is
+worthy of attention, the tree trunks being merely roughly
+squared with an axe <a href="#Page_99">(see p. 99)</a>.</p>
+
+<p>In the south alley was the refectory and the monks'
+common dining-hall. The original building is now entirely
+altered, though there remains beneath it a very early crypt,
+with plain, short square piers, and a simple quadripartite vault
+without ribs. Another portion is covered by a wagon-head
+vault. Whether the original refectory was of similar architectural
+character it is now impossible to say, as, whatever it
+may have been, it was removed early in the sixteenth century
+and rebuilt, and after the dissolution of the monastery was used
+by the Minor Canons of the church as a common hall. It
+seems to have fallen into a bad state of repair, and was again<a name='Page_31' id='Page_31'></a><span class="pagenum">31</span>
+entirely reconstructed by Dean Sudbury (1661-1684), who was
+elected to that office immediately after the Restoration. He
+converted it into a library, to which use it is still put. The
+account of this building, given in the &quot;Antiquities of Durham,&quot;
+is of sufficient interest to bear quotation.</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p>&quot;In the <i>South</i> Alley of the Cloysters,&quot; says our authority, &quot;is
+a large Hall, called the Frater-house, finely wainscotted on
+the <i>North</i> and <i>South</i> sides; and in the <i>West</i> and
+nether Part thereof, is a long Bench of Stone in Mason-work, from the
+Cellar Door to the Pantry or Cove Door: Above the Bench
+is Wainscot Work two Yards and a Half high, finely carved,
+and set with imboss'd Work in Wainscot, and gilded under
+the carved Work. Above the Wainscot was a large Picture of
+our Saviour Christ, the blessed Virgin <i>Mary</i>, and <i>S. John</i>, in
+fine gilt Work, and most excellent Colours; which Pictures
+having been washed over with Lime did long appear through it.
+This Wainscot had engraven on the Top of it, <i>Thomas Castell</i>,
+Prior, Anno Domini, 1518 Mensis Julij. Whence it is manifest
+that Prior <i>Castell</i> wainscotted the Frater-house round
+about.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Within the Frater-house Door, on the Left Hand at entering,
+is a strong Almery in the Wall, wherein a great Mazer,
+called the Grace Cup, stood, which every day served the
+Monks after Grace, to drink out of round the Table; which
+cup was finely edged about with Silver, and double Gilt. In
+the same place were kept many large and great Mazers of the
+same sort.... Every Monk had his Mazer severally by
+himself to drink in, and had all other Things that served the
+whole Convent, and the Frater-house in their daily Service,
+at their Diet, and at their Table.... At these Times (at
+meals) the Master observed these wholesom and godly Orders,
+for the continual instruction of their Youth in Virtue and
+Learning; that is, one of the Novices appointed by the
+Master, read some Part of the Old and New Testament in
+Latin, during Dinner, having a convenient place at the <i>South</i>
+End of the High Table, within a beautiful Glass Window,
+encompass'd with Iron, and certain Stone Steps, with Iron
+Rails to go up to an Iron Desk, whereon lay the Holy
+Bible....</p>
+
+<p>&quot;This Fabrick retained the Name of the Petty Canons' Hall
+till <i>Dr Sudbury</i>, Dean of the Cathedral, generously erected a
+<a name='Page_32' id='Page_32'></a><span class="pagenum">32</span>
+beautiful Library in its Place; but he not living to finish it
+compleatly, did by (a clause) in his Last Will, bind his Heir,
+<i>Sir John Sudbury</i>, to the due Execution thereof.&quot;</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<a name="image13" id="image13"></a>
+<a href="images/image13.jpg">
+<img src="images/image13_th.jpg" alt="S. Cuthbert's Chest." title="S. Cuthbert's Chest." />
+</a><br />
+<span class="caption">S. Cuthbert's Chest in the Castle.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The contents of the library are both numerous and interesting.
+There are several thousands of volumes, many of them being rare
+and valuable. Numerous ancient illuminated MSS., among
+which is a copy of the Gospels of S. Mark, S. Luke, and S.
+John, written before the year 700; and several books given by
+Bishops Carileph and Pudsey. Among the latter is a Bible, in
+four volumes, in its original stamped leather binding. A collection
+of ancient copes belonging to the cathedral, and the
+remains of the robes of S. Cuthbert, and other relics taken
+from his coffin when it was exhumed, in 1827, may also be seen
+here. Numerous specimens of Roman altars, tablets, and
+sculptured stones, from various Roman stations in Durham
+and Northumberland, notably from Hexham, are preserved in
+this library, which is open to the public on Tuesday and
+Friday in each week from eleven to one. The room is finely
+proportioned, and has a magnificent open timber roof.<a name='Page_33' id='Page_33'></a><span class="pagenum">33</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<a name="image14" id="image14"></a>
+<a href="images/image14.jpg">
+<img src="images/image14_th.jpg" alt="The Chapter-House." title="The Chapter-House." />
+</a><br />
+<span class="caption">The Chapter-House.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="II_8" id="II_8"></a>The <b>Chapter-House</b> opens upon the eastern alley of the
+cloister. The present building is a very recent restoration of
+the original, which is acknowledged to have been the finest
+existing Norman chapter-house remaining in England. It was
+erected, or more probably completed, during the time of
+Bishop Galfrid Rufus (1133-1140), and was in existence until
+1796, during the episcopate of Bishop Barrington. At that
+time it was almost totally destroyed, on the advice of Wyatt,
+who reported to the chapter that it was in a ruinous state. The
+truth of this report is doubtful, but the partial demolition
+of the building was ordered in November 1795, and also the
+construction of a new room on the site. The work of destruction
+was begun by knocking out the keystones of the vaulting and
+<a name='Page_34' id='Page_34'></a><span class="pagenum">34</span>
+allowing the roof to fall in. The eastern half of the building
+was then altogether removed, and the remaining portion enclosed
+by a wall. Its interior was faced with lath and plaster,
+a plaster ceiling and a boarded floor being added. Fortunately
+authentic records of its original appearance, both exterior and
+interior, are in existence. They are the drawings made for the
+Society of Antiquaries by John Carter in 1795. Its dimensions
+were 78 by 35 feet; the east end being apsidal and the
+roof a vault of one span. Round the wall of the interior ran
+a stone bench raised on two steps, which was surmounted,
+except at the west end, by a wall arcade, of round-headed
+intersecting arches, similar to that in the aisles of the
+cathedral, but with single instead of double shafts. Above
+the arcade was a string course carved with zig-zag ornament.
+The entrance was from the west end, and the east end was
+occupied by two seats, one for the bishop and one for the
+prior. In the apse were five three-light windows of the
+Decorated period, and above the western door a five-light
+Perpendicular window, which contained coloured glass,
+illustrating the &quot;Root of Jesse.&quot; On either side of this
+was a window of two lights, divided by a shaft and enclosed
+under one arch, carved with chevron ornament.
+There was also a round-headed Norman window in each
+of the north and south walls. A doorway in the south wall
+led to three chambers, one larger, and two smaller, which
+are stated in the &quot;Rites of Durham&quot; to have been used
+as a prison for the monks. The chapter-house was used
+in early times as a burial-place for the bishops, and many
+of their graves with inscriptions were in existence previous
+to the demolition of 1796. During excavations in 1874,
+the graves of Bishops Flambard, Galfrid Rufus, S. Barbara,
+de Insula, and Kellaw were opened, when various rings and
+the head of a crozier were discovered and removed to the
+dean and chapter library.</p>
+
+<p>The chapter-house has now been entirely restored as a
+memorial to the late Bishop Lightfoot.</p>
+
+<p>The <b>Northern Alley</b> of the Cloister, running along the
+south wall of the church, contains little of interest, except
+the two doorways previously described.</p>
+
+<p>The effect of the cloister as a whole, in its original condition,
+with the windows glazed, many containing fine stained glass,
+<a name='Page_35' id='Page_35'></a><span class="pagenum">35</span>
+the oak roof with its heraldry and colour, and the lavatory
+in the centre of the garth, must have been exceptionally fine.</p>
+
+<p><a name="II_9" id="II_9"></a>A sculptured panel on the north-west turret of the Nine
+Altar Chapel is now known as the <b>Dun Cow</b>. The original
+sculpture was replaced in the last century by the existing
+panel, but the legend connected with it is interesting. After
+their flight from Chester-le-Street, the monks, bearing the body
+of S. Cuthbert, remained some time at Ripon. While trying
+to return to Chester-le-Street, at a place called Wardlaw, the
+coffin stuck fast, and remained absolutely fixed. A fast of
+three days was proclaimed and kept, when it was revealed to
+them that they were to carry their saint to Dunholme. Still
+they were in difficulties, not knowing where Dunholme was,
+but fortune, or Providence, again favoured them. A woman,
+who had lost a cow, passed, calling to a companion to inquire
+if she had seen the animal. The reply was that her cow was
+in Dunholme; and, to the relief of the monks, they and their
+precious charge soon safely arrived there. In grateful
+<a name='Page_36' id='Page_36'></a><span class="pagenum">36</span>
+commemoration of the incident Flambard erected this monument
+of a milkmaid and her cow. (<a href="#Page_9">See p. 9.</a>)</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<a name="image15" id="image15"></a>
+<a href="images/image15.jpg">
+<img src="images/image15_th.jpg" alt="The Exterior, from the South-east." title="The Exterior, from the South-east." />
+</a><br />
+<span class="caption">The Exterior, from the South-east.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The exterior of Durham Cathedral as a whole may at first
+sight be disappointing to the visitor. Seen from a near view
+there is a certain flatness of effect and want of light and shade
+which is, perhaps, slightly unpleasant. This is, however, largely
+attributable to the scaling and scraping process to which the
+building was subjected during the last century, when some
+inches of the outer surface of the stone, and with it much
+architectural detail, were removed. The result is the flatness
+previously alluded to, and a general newness of appearance
+pervades the structure. Seen, however, from a distance, where
+only the finely-grouped and proportioned masses of masonry,
+towers, and turrets stand against the sky, the result is magnificent,
+giving an impression of grandeur and dignity unsurpassed
+by any other English cathedral.</p>
+<hr />
+
+<p><a name='Page_38' id='Page_38'></a><span class="pagenum">38</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="image16" id="image16"></a>
+<a href="images/image16.jpg">
+<img src="images/image16_th.jpg" alt="The Nave, looking West." title="The Nave, looking West." />
+</a><br />
+<span class="caption">The Nave, looking West.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a href="#CONTENTS">Table of<br />Contents</a><br />39</span>
+<a name='Page_39' id='Page_39'></a></p>
+
+<h2>
+<a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>
+CHAPTER III<br />
+<span class="subtitle">Description of the Interior</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>If the exterior of Durham is in any way disappointing, the
+interior more than compensates for its shortcomings. The
+general impression on entering the church is one of simple
+dignity and solemnity. The great massiveness of the structure
+and absence of elaborate ornament no doubt contribute to
+this feeling. The pious builders of old have certainly contrived
+to stamp on their work their own feeling of awe in the
+presence of the All-Powerful and Eternal God. Whatever has
+been lost through vandalism and the restorer, this remains
+unaltered. The general design of the church, exclusive of
+detail, which, of course, changed and developed with the
+progress of Gothic art, has undoubtedly been carried out on
+the plan intended by Bishop Carileph, the only important
+variation being the addition of the transept at the east end,
+known as the Nine Altars Chapel. The original plan consists
+of a nave and aisles, transepts with aisles on their eastern side,
+a choir also with aisles, and the three apses of the east end,
+with a central tower over the junction of transepts, nave, and
+choir, and towers flanking the west end.</p>
+
+<p><a name="III_1" id="III_1"></a>Each bay of the <b>Nave</b> is divided into two sub-bays. The
+main bays have massive piers with engaged shafts on the
+recessed faces. The bases of these are cruciform in plan,
+though the arms of the cross are very short. At the height of
+the springing of the arch the shafts are surmounted by plain
+cushion capitals. The division into sub-bays is effected by
+the introduction midway of a massive round column on a
+square base. These columns are ornamented in various ways,
+by channels cut on the face. Some take the form of a zig-zag,
+some a spiral, others a spiral in two directions, forming a trellis-like
+pattern, and others again are reeded vertically. Their
+capitals are octagonal cushions. The arches of the sub-bays
+<a name='Page_40' id='Page_40'></a><span class="pagenum">40</span>
+are recessed square, with the usual Norman roll moulding,
+decorated with chevrons, and on the wall face a square billet.
+The chevron ornament is absent in the earlier work in the
+choir and transepts. The triforium is almost uniform
+throughout the whole church. In each sub-bay it consists
+of two small arches under one larger one, with the tympanum
+solid. Here also the capitals are cushions and perfectly plain.</p>
+
+<p>Above the triforium is the clerestory, which contains one
+light to each sub-bay, and surmounting all is the vaulting,
+which springs from the piers and from grotesquely carved
+corbels between the triforium arches. The vaulting ribs are
+ornamented with chevrons on either side of a bold semi-circular
+moulding. So much for the general arrangement of the bays.
+Some idea of the massiveness of the structures may be gathered
+when it is known that each group of the clustered pillars separating
+the bays covers an area of two hundred and twenty-five
+square feet at its base, while those of the cylindrical columns of
+the sub-bays are twelve feet square, and the columns themselves
+have a circumference of over twenty-three feet. There is little
+room to doubt that the effect obtained by the old builders of
+Durham was intentional. The masterly way in which great
+masses of solid masonry, greater than was constructively
+necessary, are handled, and the reticence and delicacy of the
+ornament combine to prove this. There is in the whole
+scheme a delightful union of great power and vigour in the
+masses, and of tenderness and loving care in the detail.</p>
+
+<p><a name="III_2" id="III_2"></a>The <b>Choir</b> is the earliest part of the church. Its two
+western bays show Carileph's work, but the eastern piers have
+been considerably altered owing to the addition at a later
+period of the eastern transept, when Carileph's apses were
+taken down. This bay contains some very rich and beautiful
+detail. The piers on either side of the choir are decorated
+with arcades, the lower stage having six arches, and the upper
+three, all richly carved with foliage in the caps and hood
+moulds, and with heads and half figures. There is also a
+square aumbry on each pier. Above the upper arcade, which
+breaks through the level of the triforium string course, which is
+also carried round it, there is on each pier a figure of an angel
+beneath a canopy. These are the only two figures remaining
+of many which formerly added to the beauty of the interior of
+the church. The vaulting of the choir is thirteenth-century
+work, quadripartite, the ribs decorated with dog-tooth ornament
+and square leaves, and has fine bosses at the intersections
+of the diagonal ribs. The choir of Durham is especially interesting
+to the student of architecture, showing as it does the
+Early Norman work of Carileph, combined with the Early
+English and Early Decorated work of the newer eastern
+portion.<a name='Page_41' id='Page_41'></a><span class="pagenum">41</span>
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<a name="image17" id="image17"></a>
+<a href="images/image17.jpg">
+<img src="images/image17_th.jpg" alt="One Bay Of The Nave (Measured Drawing)." title="One Bay Of The Nave (Measured Drawing)." />
+</a><br />
+<span class="caption">One Bay Of The Nave (Measured Drawing).</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name='Page_43' id='Page_43'></a><span class="pagenum">43</span>
+On the south side of the choir stands the monument of
+Bishop Hatfield, who directed the see of Durham from 1345
+until 1381. This monument is beneath the Episcopal Throne,
+which was erected by Bishop Hatfield himself. It consists of
+an altar tomb surmounted by a recumbent effigy of the bishop,
+in richly-worked robes, beneath a canopy, richly groined, with
+foliated bosses at the intersections of the ribs. On the walls
+at the east and west ends may still be seen the remains of
+fresco painting, representing in each case two angels. Beneath
+the staircase leading up to the throne is a very fine decorated
+arcade, containing several shields bearing the bishop's and
+other arms. The whole structure was originally richly coloured
+and gilded, and remains of this work can still be made out.
+It is a noble specimen of the work of its date.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately opposite the tomb of Bishop Hatfield, on the
+north side of the choir, the visitor will notice the recently-erected
+memorial to the late Bishop Lightfoot. This is an
+altar tomb of black and coloured marble. The sides are ornamented
+with panels of Perpendicular tracery containing shields.
+Round the upper mouldings runs a Latin inscription in brass.
+The whole is surmounted by a recumbent figure of the bishop
+in white marble, his hands on his breast, and his feet resting
+against three books. Originally designed by Sir Edgar
+Boehm, R.A., at his death the monument was completed by
+Alfred Gilbert, R.A.</p>
+
+<p><a name="III_3" id="III_3"></a>The beautiful altar screen is usually known as the
+<b>Neville Screen,</b> and was erected about the year 1380,
+mainly from moneys supplied by John, Lord Neville of Raby.
+It spans the whole of the choir, and is continued along the
+sides of the sacrarium, forming sedilia of four seats on either
+side. It is pierced by two doors, which lead to the shrine of
+S. Cuthbert, immediately behind the screen. Though very
+light and graceful in appearance, the screen, as it is at present,
+can give the beholder little idea of what its appearance must
+<a name='Page_44' id='Page_44'></a><span class="pagenum">44</span>
+have been when each of its canopied niches contained a figure
+aglow with gold and colour. There were originally 107 of
+these statues, the centre one representing Our Lady, supported
+on either side by S. Cuthbert and S. Oswald. Unfortunately
+none of the figures remain <i>in situ</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately in front of the steps of the high altar will be
+seen the matrix of a large brass. It covers the grave of
+Ludovick de Bellomonte, Bishop of Durham from 1318 to
+1333. The slab, which is in two pieces, measures fifteen feet
+ten inches by nine feet seven inches, and an examination will
+show the brass to have been an elaborate and sumptuous
+composition. Unfortunately all the metal work has disappeared.</p>
+
+<p>The <b>Stalls,</b> as they originally existed, were destroyed in
+1650 by the Scottish prisoners, who were kept in the cathedral
+after the battle of Dunbar. The present stalls we owe to
+Bishop Cosin (1660 to 1672), and they are remarkable pieces
+of carving for that date. In general character they imitate
+Perpendicular work, though the details do not adhere altogether
+to that style.</p>
+
+<p>Before leaving this part of the church a note may be devoted
+to the alterations and additions made during the years 1870 to
+1876. A new screen between the nave and choir was then
+erected; the choir floor relaid with marble mosaic; the stalls
+replaced in their old positions, and new portions made to
+replace those destroyed in 1846. A new organ, pulpit, and
+lectern were also added.</p>
+
+<p>The new <b>Choir Screen</b> is very much open to criticism.
+Though no doubt beautiful in detail, and of excellent workmanship,
+its effect, as a whole, is not pleasant, when seen
+from the west end silhouetted against the light of the choir.
+A screen previously existed in this position erected by Bishop
+Cosin. This was removed in 1846, with the idea of improving
+the appearance of the church from the west end by
+obtaining a &quot;vista&quot; through to the Neville screen and rose
+window of the eastern transept. The effect seems, however,
+to have been disappointing, hence the erection of the present
+screen, which may or may not have improved matters. In
+the two western piers of the choir holes may be seen cut in
+the stonework. These received the rood-beam from which,
+during Lent, the Lenten curtain was suspended.<a name='Page_45' id='Page_45'></a><span class="pagenum">45</span>
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<a name="image18" id="image18"></a>
+<a href="images/image18.jpg">
+<img src="images/image18_th.jpg" alt="Triforium and Clerestory." title="Triforium and Clerestory." />
+</a><br />
+<span class="caption">Triforium and Clerestory.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name='Page_47' id='Page_47'></a><span class="pagenum">47</span></p>
+<div class="center">
+<a name="image19" id="image19"></a>
+<a href="images/image19.jpg">
+<img src="images/image19_th.jpg" alt="The Choir, looking West." title="The Choir, looking West." />
+</a><br /><span class="caption">The Choir, looking West.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name='Page_49' id='Page_49'></a><span class="pagenum">49</span>
+The <b>North Aisle of the Choir,</b> again, shows the joining
+and harmonising of the &quot;new work&quot; of the eastern transept
+with the earlier Norman work. Inside the church the most
+easterly bay appears to be altogether of Early English date;
+but on the exterior it will be seen that the Norman wall runs
+right up to the western wall of the eastern transept. The
+interior of the bay, however, is enriched with a wall arcade
+similar to that in the Nine Altars Chapel, and the arch and
+vault are decorated with foliage and dog-tooth ornament.</p>
+
+<p>Along the side wall of this aisle runs a stone bench bearing
+the arms of Bishop Walter de Skirlaw (1388 to 1405), near
+which he was buried, but his monument and brass, erected by
+himself, have disappeared.</p>
+
+<p>Slightly westward of the bench is a doorway which at
+one time opened into the Sacrist's Exchequer, erected by
+Prior Wessington, but it has long ago been destroyed.</p>
+
+<p>The piers of the west end of this aisle bear marks which
+were originally holes cut in the stone. These served to support
+a porch, having a rood and altar, which is thus described in the
+&quot;Rites of Durham&quot;:</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p>&quot;Right over the Entrance of this North
+Alleye, going to the Songe Scoole (the Exchequer mentioned
+above) there was a porch adjoyninge to the quire on the
+South, and S. Benedick's altar on the North, the porch having
+in it an altar, and the roode or picture of our Saviour, which
+altar and roode was much frequented in devotion by Docteur
+Swalwell, sometime monk of Durham, the said roode havinge
+marveilous sumptuous furniture for festivall dayes belonginge
+to it.&quot;</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p>The <b>South Aisle Of the Choir</b> is similar architecturally
+to the north aisle. Here may be seen a doorway, of late
+thirteenth-century work, which originally led to the revestry,
+now destroyed.</p>
+
+<p>Here again the eastern piers bear marks left by holes in the
+stonework, which originally earned the supports of a screen, in
+front of which the Black Rood of Scotland, which was taken
+from King David at the battle of Neville's Cross (1346), was
+placed. The rood is described as having been brought from
+Holyrood by David Bruce, and was made of silver, with effigies
+of our Saviour, S. John, and Our Lady, having crowns of gold
+on their heads. The Black Rood was restored to its original
+possessors at the close of the war.</p>
+
+<p><a name='Page_50' id='Page_50'></a><span class="pagenum">50</span>
+The windows of both the choir aisles originally contained
+very fine old stained glass, representing various saints, and
+scenes in the life of S. Cuthbert.</p>
+
+<p><a name="III_4" id="III_4"></a>The <b>Transepts.</b>&mdash;Leaving the choir by its western end
+the visitor at once enters the transepts. A large portion of
+these, including the great piers and arches which carry the
+central tower, are, without doubt, of the time of Carileph. The
+eastern side of both is certainly his work, while the western is
+probably the building which was carried on by the monks in
+the interval between Carileph's death, in 1096, and the appointment
+of Flambard to the see in 1099. The work on the
+eastern sides differs little from that of the choir, while that of
+the western sides, being plainer, has been thought by some to
+indicate a want of means on the part of the monks, while
+carrying on the work in the interval just alluded to. Each
+transept consists of two bays, with an aisle on the eastern side,
+access to which is gained by the ascent of three steps.</p>
+
+<p>Each of the three sub-bays nearest the north and south
+extremities originally contained an altar, those in the north
+transept being dedicated to S. Nicholas and S. Giles, S.
+Gregory and S. Benedict. Over the site of the latter may still
+be seen remains of fresco painting. The altars in the south
+transept were dedicated&mdash;one to S. Faith and S. Thomas the
+Apostle, one to our Lady of Bolton and the other to our Lady
+of Houghall. The north transept is closed by a large window,
+which is the work of Prior Fossor, probably about the year
+1362. The window is of six lights, and the head contains late
+geometrical tracery. The architectural feature of this window,
+especially for its date, is the transom which crosses the mullions,
+and which is not visible from the exterior. Below the
+transom is a second inner set of mullions supporting a small
+gallery, by means of which access may be had to the triforium.
+In the year 1512 the window was repaired by Prior Castell,
+who filled it with stained glass containing large figures, among
+others of S. Augustine, S. Ambrose, S. Gregory, and S. Jerome.
+From this circumstance the window became known as the
+window of the Four Doctors of the Church. Prior Castell also
+contrived to introduce a figure of himself kneeling at the feet
+of the Virgin. The large window at the end of the south
+transept, also named from the glass it contained, the <i>Te Deum</i>
+window, is in the Perpendicular style, and is of six lights. It
+may possibly have been the work of Prior Wessington, 1416 to
+1446. Along the sill of this window also access may be had
+to the triforium.<a name='Page_51' id='Page_51'></a><span class="pagenum">51</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<a name="image20" id="image20"></a>
+<a href="images/image20.jpg">
+<img src="images/image20_th.jpg" alt="The Transepts, looking North." title="The Transepts, looking North." />
+</a><br />
+<span class="caption">The Transepts, looking North.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name='Page_53' id='Page_53'></a><span class="pagenum">53</span>
+Both the north-west and south-west corners of the transepts
+contain stairways, opening at their various levels on to the
+triforium, clerestory, and the space between the vaulting and
+the roof. That in the south transept also gives access to the
+central tower and belfry, an ascent of which, if the day be
+clear, will repay the visitor for his fatiguing climb of three
+hundred and forty steps by the magnificent view spread at
+his feet. The transepts were no doubt the earliest part of
+the building to be vaulted; that of the northern arm being
+plain is probably the earlier, while that of the south arm,
+though of similar character, has zig-zag ornaments. Several
+of the priors of Durham were buried in the transepts, the first,
+Prior Fossor, 1364, and the last, Robert Ebchester, who died
+in 1484.</p>
+
+<p>On the piers of the transepts projecting brackets may be
+noticed. These are of Perpendicular date, and originally
+carried statues.</p>
+
+<p>The crossing, or space between the four piers supporting
+the central tower, gives us a fine view of the interior of the
+lantern.</p>
+
+<p><a name="III_5" id="III_5"></a>The <b>Tower</b> is carried on four large clustered Norman piers
+with semi-circular arches. Over the arches, and seventy-seven
+feet above the floor of the church, is the lower stage of the
+lantern, round which is a gallery with an open pierced parapet.
+It rests on corbels, each alternate one being carved with a
+grotesque head. The walls are panelled up to the base of
+the great windows,&mdash;each panel having two cinquefoiled
+arches under a crocketed canopy and final; while between
+them are small buttresses, also panelled, and ending in a
+finial which reaches the same height as the canopy. Over
+the panelling is a string course ornamented with that characteristic
+ornament of the Perpendicular period, the Tudor
+flower, and above this on each face two tall windows near
+together. Each window has two lights, and is divided by a
+transom. The roof of the lantern is groined, with fine bosses
+at the intersections of the ribs. The whole seen from below
+has a very fine effect, and must be very different in appearance
+from the original Norman structure. The whole of the
+<a name='Page_54' id='Page_54'></a><span class="pagenum">54</span>
+lantern was refaced, and the statues which had been removed
+from their niches were replaced, some thirty years ago, by the
+Dean and Chapter of Durham.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<a name="image21" id="image21"></a>
+<a href="images/image21.png">
+<img src="images/image21_th.png" alt="Corbel in Choir." title="Corbel in Choir." />
+</a><br />
+<span class="caption">Corbel in Choir at Junction of Old and New Work.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="III_6" id="III_6"></a>The <b>Norman East End.</b>&mdash;The original form of the
+Norman east end has long been the subject of discussion and
+conjecture. It was practically safe to assume that the choir
+ended in an apse, though whether the aisles were also apsidal,
+or continued round a great apse as an ambulatory, was a
+debatable point. This question has now been finally settled.<a name='Page_55' id='Page_55'></a><span class="pagenum">55</span>
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<a name="image22" id="image22"></a>
+<a href="images/image22.jpg">
+<img src="images/image22_th.jpg" alt="The Choir, looking East." title="The Choir, looking East." />
+</a><br />
+<span class="caption">The Choir, looking East.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name='Page_57' id='Page_57'></a><span class="pagenum">57</span>
+During some operations necessitating the opening of the floor,
+in January 1895, certain indications were found which led
+the diocesan architect, Mr C.H. Fowler, and Canon Greenwell
+to continue the excavation. The result was the discovery
+that Carileph's church certainly possessed three apses&mdash;a large
+one terminating the choir, and smaller ones the aisles. The
+apses of the aisles were square externally, and apsidal internally.
+The great apse consisted of five bays, one on either side
+next to the choir, forming an oblong between the choir and
+the springing line of the curve of the apse, over which would
+be the great sanctuary arch. The remainder, or apse proper,
+was divided into three bays by engaged clustered shafts, similar
+to those of the choir and nave. It was surrounded by a wall
+arcade of the same character as that of the rest of the church.
+The base of one of the shafts of the arcade was found in
+position. An extremely interesting point in this discovery is
+the fact that the levels are the same as those of the nave and
+choir. The foundations are on the rock at the same depth,
+and the aisle walls and apse walls are in the same line. The
+external square line of the aisle apses is in line with the springing
+of the choir apse. The foundations of the apse to the north aisle
+have been thoroughly excavated, and there is every reason to
+believe that that on the south side of the church entirely corresponds.
+The width of the north aisle apse from north to south
+is nine feet eight inches. There can be little doubt, judging
+from the remainder of Carileph's work, that all three apses
+were covered with stone vaults, though of precisely what
+character can only be a matter of conjecture. The cracking,
+previously spoken of, which led to this part of the church
+being taken down and the new eastern transept being erected,
+cannot have arisen from any subsidence of the foundations.
+It, in all probability, was the result of the thrust of the apse
+vaults on to walls which were insufficiently buttressed. The
+marks on some of the stones found during this excavation, and
+the shape of others, seem to point to the conclusion that here
+we have the earliest part of the church, and that Carileph used
+up in his foundations much of the stone of Aldhun's White
+Church.</p>
+
+<p>Of the two usual eastern endings to Norman churches&mdash;viz.
+those with three apses, and those having the aisle carried
+round as an ambulatory&mdash;the latter is far more common in
+<a name='Page_58' id='Page_58'></a><span class="pagenum">58</span>
+England, and the former on the Continent. There are two
+other notable instances of the three apsidal arrangement in
+England: S. Albans, 1077, which is earlier than Durham;
+and Peterboro', 1117, which is later than, and was probably
+modelled on, Durham. There are many examples of ambulatories&mdash;the
+White Tower Church (London), Winchester,
+Gloucester, Worcester, and Norwich being among them.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/image23.png"  alt="Corbel in Choir." title="Corbel in Choir." />
+</div>
+
+<p>The apses of Durham are of considerable depth from east to
+west, the oblong bay previously mentioned, which is fourteen
+feet wide in that direction, adding greatly to this effect. The
+width of the foundations is fourteen feet, and the width of the
+wall has been seven feet. The diameter of the choir apse
+from north to south was about thirty-two feet.</p>
+
+<p>These discoveries are specially interesting, completing as
+they do the whole chain, and leading us with very little
+imagination to see in its original condition what must have
+been, and may even now claim to be, the most noble example
+of Norman architecture in our country.</p>
+
+<p><a name='Page_59' id='Page_59'></a><span class="pagenum">59</span></p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<a name="image23" id="image23"></a>
+<a href="images/image24.jpg">
+<img src="images/image24_th.jpg" alt="Triforium of Nave and Choir." title="Triforium of Nave and Choir." />
+</a><br />
+<span class="caption">Triforium of Nave and Choir, Showing Junction of Old and New Work.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="center">
+<a name="image24" id="image24"></a>
+<a href="images/image25.png">
+<img src="images/image25_th.png"  alt="Plan of Norman East End." title="Plan of Norman East End." />
+</a><br />
+<span class="caption">Plan of Norman East End, With Tomb and Shrine of St. Cuthbert at A.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figright">
+<a name="image25" id="image25"></a>
+<img src="images/image26.png" alt="Sections of Hood and Arch Mouldings." title="Sections of Hood and Arch Mouldings." />
+</div>
+
+<p><a name='Page_61' id='Page_61'></a><span class="pagenum">61</span>
+<a name="III_7" id="III_7"></a>The <b>Nine Altars Chapel.</b>&mdash;Leaving the consideration of
+what once occupied the site of the east end of Durham, we
+will turn our attention to the beautiful erection which now
+stands there, the eastern transept, or, as it is named from the
+altars of the saints it once contained beneath its windows, the
+Chapel of the Nine Altars.
+It is approached from the
+aisles by steps, the floor level
+being lower than that of the
+church proper. It is altogether
+a remarkable and interesting
+structure. With its lightness
+and loftiness contrasting
+grandly with the massive
+Norman nave and choir, its
+clustered columns of polished
+marble alternating with stone,
+its fine bold sculpture, its
+splendid vaulted roof and rich
+arcading, it forms a perfect
+example of the Early English
+style. Though regular and symmetrical in general design, the
+detail shows great variety, and even irregularity, a quality so
+often present in old work, and so much to its advantage. In
+<a name='Page_62' id='Page_62'></a><span class="pagenum">62</span>
+general character it may be compared with that at Fountains
+Abbey, which was built during the same time.</p>
+
+
+<p>The circumstances leading to its erection have been already
+referred to. The Norman apses having
+been partly removed, owing to their
+dangerous condition, the &quot;New Work,&quot;
+as it was always called, was commenced
+in the year 1242. The eastern wall,
+with its rose and nine lancet windows,
+is the earliest part of the chapel, the
+north and south walls being later.
+The joining and blending of the work
+with the Norman of Carileph's choir
+had evidently been accomplished when
+the chapel was almost completed.
+The eastern wall is of three bays, each
+bay having three lofty lancet windows.
+The bays are not of equal width, the
+centre one being regulated by the width of the nave of the
+church, and narrower than the north and south bays.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 195px;">
+<a name="image26" id="image26"></a>
+<a href="./images/image27.png">
+<img src="images/image27_th.png" alt="Capital in the Nine Altars Chapel." title="Capital in the Nine Altars Chapel." /></a>
+<span class="caption">Capital: Chapel of the Nine Altars.</span></div>
+
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 289px;">
+<a href="./images/image28.png">
+<img src="images/image28_th.png" alt="Capital in the Nine Altars Chapel." title="Capital in the Nine Altars Chapel." />
+</a><span class="caption">Capital: Chapel of the Nine Altars.</span></div>
+
+
+<p>A very beautiful arcade
+runs completely
+round the walls. It is
+of trefoil arches, deeply
+and richly moulded,
+supported on marble
+columns carved with
+foliage. Over the arches
+is a hood mould terminating
+with heads. In
+the spandrels are a series
+of deeply-sunk and
+moulded quatrefoils,
+two of which contain
+sculpture. The bases
+of the columns rest on
+a plinth. Surmounting
+this arcade is a moulded
+string, from the level of
+which rise the windows, and above the windows another string
+course and a second range of windows. In the centre bay,
+however, is the large rose window, which is over thirty feet in
+diameter.<a name='Page_63' id='Page_63'></a><span class="pagenum">63</span>
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<a name="image27" id="image27"></a>
+<a href="images/image29.jpg">
+<img src="images/image29_th.jpg" alt="The Nine Altars Chapel." title="The Nine Altars Chapel." />
+</a><br />
+<span class="caption">The Nine Altars Chapel. Looking North, With Tomb of St. Cuthbert on the Left.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name='Page_65' id='Page_65'></a><span class="pagenum">65</span>
+The division of the chapel into three bays is effected by
+two main vaulting arches, which spring on the western side
+from the piers of the east end of the choir, and on the eastern
+side from responds of clustered shafts alternately of marble
+and stone, banded at intervals and having richly carved
+capitals. The arches themselves are deeply moulded and
+ornamented with dog-tooth ornament and foliage. The vault
+of the central bay has eight ribs&mdash;two springing from each
+of the clusters just described, and two from each of the choir
+piers. The vaulting of the remaining bays is quadripartite, but
+has peculiarities which are worthy of notice, arising from
+inequality of width. We must not omit to call attention to
+the exquisite sculpture of the vaulting. The centre has figures
+of the Four Evangelists, while in the north is a beautifully
+executed carving of vine and grapes, and in the south, figure
+subjects. Among the sculptured heads on the wall arcade at
+the south end, at the western side of the two bays into which
+the south wall is divided, are two which are portraits of the
+men to whom we owe the design and execution of the beautiful
+sculpture of this chapel. One is an elderly man, the other
+much younger, and both wear linen dust-caps over their heads.</p>
+
+<p>The nine lancet windows were originally filled with ancient
+stained glass, which, as the reader will remember, was removed,
+Below each window was an altar. They were dedicated a
+follows, beginning at the south end of the chapel:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table summary="windows">
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">1.</td>
+  <td align="left">S. Andrew and S. Mary Magdalene.</td>
+  <td align="center" rowspan="3" valign="middle"><span class="xxl">}</span></td>
+  <td align="center" rowspan="3" valign="middle">South bay.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">2.</td>
+  <td align="left">S. John the Baptist and S. Margaret.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">3.</td>
+  <td align="left">S. Thomas of Canterbury and S. Catherine.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td> </tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">4.</td>
+  <td align="left">S. Oswald and S. Lawrence.</td>
+  <td rowspan="3" valign="middle"><span class="xxl">}</span></td>
+  <td align="center" rowspan="3" valign="middle">Middle bay.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">5.</td>
+  <td align="left">S. Cuthbert and S. Bede.</td>
+ </tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">6.</td>
+  <td align="left">S. Martin.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>&nbsp; </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td align="right">7.</td>
+ <td align="left">S. Peter and S. Paul.</td>
+ <td  align="center" rowspan="3" valign="middle"><span class="xxl">}</span></td>
+  <td align="center" rowspan="3" valign="middle">North bay.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td align="right">8.</td>
+ <td align="left">S. Aidan and S. Helen.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td align="right">9.</td>
+ <td align="left">S. Michael the Archangel.</td>
+ <td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+<p>The rose window over the lancets of the middle bay is
+Wyatt's &quot;restoration&quot; of the original one. It consists of an
+outer circle of twenty-four and an inner circle of twelve
+radiating lights, the mullions of which are received on a
+foliated circle in the centre.</p>
+
+<p><a name='Page_66' id='Page_66'></a><span class="pagenum">66</span>
+In the north wall of the chapel is a very fine window, known
+as the Joseph window, on account of the stained glass it originally
+contained, which illustrated the life-history of Joseph. It is a
+beautiful example of Early Decorated or geometrical Gothic,
+and is of six lights. There is an inner plane of tracery resting
+on clustered shafts, which is connected to the mullions of the
+window proper by through stones. The window occupies the
+complete width of the north end of the chapel. The painted
+glass which it once contained is
+thus described in the &quot;Rites of
+Durham&quot;:</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 235px;" >
+<a name="image28" id="image28"></a>
+<img src="images/image30.png" alt="Capital in Galilee Chapel." title="Capital in Galilee Chapel." />
+</div>
+
+<div class='blkquot'><p>&quot;In the North Alley of
+the said Nine Altars, there is
+another goodly faire great glass
+window, called Joseph's Window,
+the which hath in it all the whole
+storye of Joseph, most artificially
+wrought in pictures in fine coloured
+glass, accordinge as it is sett
+forth in the Bible, verye good
+and godly to the beholders
+thereof.&quot;</p></div>
+
+<p>
+This window deserves the attention
+of the architectural student,
+as it is an exceedingly fine specimen
+of the tracery of its date.
+</p>
+
+<p>The south wall of the chapel
+contains two windows, each divided
+by a central mullion, and having
+an inner mullion connected by
+through stones. They are widely
+splayed inwards, and separated by
+a group of vaulting shafts. One or both of these windows
+contained stained glass, with the history of the life and
+miracles of S. Cuthbert. As seen at present, they contain
+tracery of the Perpendicular period, a restoration of
+that inserted by Prior Wessington. Each window is of
+two lights, crossed by a transom. Entry to the nine altars
+was provided for, as well as from the choir and aisles, by
+two doors on the western side of its north and south walls.
+The northern doorway is now walled up. They enter through
+the wall arcade. The writer of the &quot;Rites of Durham&quot; says
+the north door was made in order to bring in the body of
+Bishop Anthony Bek, who is buried in the chapel. The architectural
+features of the doorway would, however, seem to contradict
+this theory, and there is little room to doubt that both
+north and south doorways formed part of the original design of
+the structure.<a name='Page_67' id='Page_67'></a><span class="pagenum">67</span></p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<a name="image29" id="image29"></a>
+<a href="images/image31.jpg">
+<img src="images/image31_th.jpg" alt="The Galilee Chapel." title="The Galilee Chapel." />
+</a><br />
+<span class="caption">The Galilee Chapel.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="III_8" id="III_8"></a><a name='Page_69' id='Page_69'></a><span class="pagenum">69</span>
+Before leaving this interesting portion of the building we
+must direct our attention to its most important contents, the
+<b>Tomb of S. Cuthbert</b>. This, as at present to be seen, is a
+great oblong platform, thirty-seven feet long by twenty-three
+feet wide, and its upper surface or floor six feet above the floor
+of the chapel. Beneath a slab in the centre the bones of
+the patron saint rest. The shrine of S. Cuthbert at
+one time stood upon this platform, but of that no vestige
+remains.</p>
+
+<p>The floor of the platform is reached by two doors through
+the Neville screen in the choir, and by a small stairway from
+the south aisle. The wanderings of the monks of Lindisfarne
+with the body of their saint, their many difficulties and trials,
+and their ultimate settlement at Dunholme or Durham, have
+already been described. The shrine was eventually set up in
+its present position by Bishop Carileph, in 1104, when he
+brought it from the cloister garth from the tomb he had there
+set up for its temporary reception, until his church was sufficiently
+advanced to permit of its removal thither. It was visited
+by large numbers of pilgrims, and many important personages
+were among them. Of these may be mentioned William the
+Conqueror, Henry III. (1255), Edward II. (1322), and Henry
+VI. (1448). The shrine was destroyed soon after the surrender
+of the monastery to the Crown, in 1540, when the body was
+buried beneath the place where its former receptacle had stood.
+There have since this time been traditions that the exact place of
+the burial was secret, and known only, according to one account,
+to three Benedictine monks, who each handed the secret down
+to a successor. The other tradition places the knowledge of
+the place of burial in the hands of the Roman Catholic bishops
+of the Northern Province. One of these traditions was made
+public in the year 1867, and gave the place of interment as
+being under the second and third steps leading to the tower
+from the south transept. This place was excavated and
+examined, but no trace of any burial could be found there. It
+<a name='Page_70' id='Page_70'></a><span class="pagenum">70</span>
+is to these traditions that Scott refers, in <i>Marmion</i>, in the
+following lines:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table summary="center poem">
+<tr><td align="left">
+Chester-le-Street, and Ripon saw<br />
+His holy corpse, ere Wardilaw<br />
+Hailed him with joy and fear;<br />
+And after many wanderings past,<br />
+He chose his lordly seat at last,<br />
+Where his cathedral, huge and vast,<br />
+Looks down upon the Wear.<br />
+There deep in Durham's Gothic shade<br />
+His relics are in secret laid;<br />
+But none may know the place,<br />
+Save of his holiest servants three,<br />
+Deep sworn to solemn secrecy,<br />
+Who share that wondrous grace.
+</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>In May 1827 the grave in the Nine Altars Chapel was
+opened in the presence of two of the church dignitaries and
+other persons. Dr Raine, who was also present, has left a
+careful account of the discoveries then
+made.<a name="FNanchor_C_3" id="FNanchor_C_3"></a><a href='#Footnote_C_3' class="fnanchor">3</a>
+The outer coffin, that made in 1542, was first removed, revealing a second and
+much decayed coffin and many bones. After the removal
+of these relics the lid of a third oak coffin was revealed, in
+a very advanced state of decay. This innermost coffin was
+covered over its entire surface with carvings of human figures,
+the heads surrounded by a nimbus. When this coffin was
+removed the skeleton was exposed to view, wrapped in coverings,
+the outer of which had been of linen. The robes beneath
+were much decayed, and only portions of them could be preserved.
+On the breast of the body, among the robes, a comb
+was found, answering exactly to that described by Reginald
+in 1104. Among the most interesting of the finds were a stole
+and maniple.</p>
+
+<p>The stole is of very early date, and is of needlework in
+colours and gold. The centre design is a quatrefoil, inside
+which is a lamb with nimbus, and the letters AGNV DI.
+On either side are figures of Old Testament prophets, with
+their names. Near the ends the embroidery occurs on both
+sides of the stole, on the back of one of which among foliage
+is the inscription &AElig;LFFLAED FIERI PRECEPIT, which is
+continued on the back of the opposite end, thus&mdash;PIO
+EPISCOPO FRIDESTANO. The translation of this inscription
+<a name='Page_71' id='Page_71'></a><span class="pagenum">71</span>
+is to the effect that Aelfled commanded the stole to be
+made for the pious Bishop Frithestan. The maniple is of a
+similar character, and also bears ornament, figures, and
+inscriptions.<a name="FNanchor_D_4" id="FNanchor_D_4"></a><a href='#Footnote_D_4' class="fnanchor">4</a>
+Frithestan was made Bishop of Winchester in 905.
+Aelfled, who was Queen of Eadward, the son and successor of
+Alfred, died in 916. It was therefore during these ten years
+that she caused this stole and maniple to be made for the
+Bishop Frithestan. It is recorded that the son and successor
+of Eadward, by name Athelstan, when on a journey in the
+north visited Chester-le-Street and the shrine of S. Cuthbert,
+which was then at that place. Among other presents he left
+as offerings a stole and maniple, and a girdle and two bracelets
+of gold. It is a curious fact that a girdle and two gold bracelets
+were found along with the stole and maniple in the grave,
+in 1827, and leaves very little doubt that they are the ones
+mentioned above. The bones of the saint were quite intact,
+and none were missing. They were, with the other relics,
+placed in a new coffin, and the grave re-covered. Some portions
+of the inner coffin, with the stole, two maniples, the girdle
+and bracelets and fragments of the robes are now carefully preserved
+in the Dean and Chapter Library. A large gold cross
+found among the robes, decorated with garnets, and of workmanship
+of the time of S. Cuthbert is also preserved in the
+library. These discoveries seem to speak for themselves, and
+to leave very little room for doubt that the body exhumed and
+examined in 1827 was really that of the patron saint of the
+church.</p>
+
+<p>There were also found in the grave bones of infants,
+supposed to be relics of the Holy Innocents, and a skull, most
+probably that of S. Oswald, which was known to have been
+placed in the coffin of S. Cuthbert.</p>
+
+<p>Two smooth grooves may be observed on the platform,
+which are <i>said</i> to have been worn into the stone by the knees
+or feet of generations of pilgrims visiting the shrine.</p>
+
+<p>There are several other tombs and monuments in this
+chapel, chiefly wall tablets of not exceptional interest. At the
+north end, however, is a colossal statue of the last of the prince
+bishops, Bishop van Mildert, who died in 1836. The
+monument is of white marble, the figure seated on a throne
+<a name='Page_72' id='Page_72'></a><span class="pagenum">72</span>
+and holding a book. It was erected by public subscription,
+the sculptor being John Gibson, R.A. Near this monument
+is a blue slab covering the remains of Bishop Anthony Bek,
+patriarch of Jerusalem, who died in 1310. It was to bring in
+the body of this bishop that some writers have thought the
+north doorway of the Nine Altars Chapel was constructed.
+This is, as we have seen already, extremely improbable.</p>
+
+<p>The student of architecture will find very much to interest.
+him in this Chapel of the Nine Altars. The beautiful sculpture
+and variety in the capitals of the shafts of wall arcading, not to
+mention the rich carving of the vaulting bosses and capitals of
+the vaulting shafts, will well repay his earnest study.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<a href="images/image32.jpg">
+<img src="images/image32_th.jpg" alt="The Galilee Chapel." title="The Galilee Chapel." />
+</a><br />
+<span class="caption">The Galilee Chapel.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="III_9" id="III_9"></a>The <b>Galilee</b> or <b>Lady Chapel</b> is situated at the west
+end of the nave. It is well known that for some reason
+women were not allowed to enter any church where S.
+Cuthbert's shrine stood, nor even any church dedicated to him.
+At Lindisfarne a separate church was provided for them, and
+at Durham the Galilee Chapel was added for the same purpose.
+It was alleged that S. Cuthbert himself had made this rule,
+but there is no proof that he ever issued such a command.
+<a name='Page_73' id='Page_73'></a><span class="pagenum">73</span>
+The Venerable Bede makes no mention of any special feeling
+of antipathy to women on the part of the saint. Bede was
+contemporary with, and survived S. Cuthbert forty-eight years.
+Whatever may have been the origin of the practice, it is
+certain that in later times women were jealously excluded from
+the churches of S. Cuthbert, and to this circumstance we owe,
+in the chapel under our consideration, the most beautiful and
+perfect example of Transitional Norman architecture existing
+in England.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<a name="image30" id="image30"></a>
+<a href="images/image33.jpg">
+<img src="images/image33_th.jpg" alt="Paintings in the Galilee Chapel." title="Paintings in the Galilee Chapel." />
+</a><br />
+<span class="caption">Paintings On the East Wall of the Galilee Chapel.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name='Page_74' id='Page_74'></a><span class="pagenum">74</span>
+Let us recall briefly the circumstances attending its erection.
+Hugh Pudsey, who occupied the episcopal throne, 1153 to
+1195, commenced to build a Lady Chapel at the east end of
+the church. The work had not gone far before accidents
+happened, and cracks and fissures appeared in the walls, which
+the builder thought &quot;gave manifest indication that it was not
+acceptable to God and His servant
+S. Cuthbert.&quot;<a name="FNanchor_E_5" id="FNanchor_E_5"></a><a href='#Footnote_E_5' class="fnanchor">5</a>
+The work was therefore abandoned, and another chapel was commenced
+at the west end of the church, &quot;into which women
+might lawfully enter, so that they who had not bodily access
+to the secret things of the holy place, might have some solace
+from the contemplation of them&quot; (Geoffrey de Coldingham).
+Pudsey caused to be moved here the marble shafts and bases
+he had previously brought from &quot;beyond the sea,&quot; and
+intended to be used in the construction of his chapel at the
+east end. Entering the chapel by the steps leading from the
+Norman nave, the visitor is at once impressed with the lightness
+and delicacy of the work before him, as compared with the
+massive grandeur of the Norman cathedral behind. Here we
+have, in fact, one of the latest uses of the round arch influenced
+by the rapidly developing Early English Gothic. In plan the
+chapel consists of a nave with double aisles, which perhaps
+might be more properly called five aisles. These are divided
+by arcades, each of which is of four bays. These arches and
+the columns which support them are the chief beauty and
+characteristic of the chapel. The arches are semi-circular, of
+one order, with three lines of chevron, one on each face, and
+one on the soffit between two roll mouldings. The capitals are
+light and graceful and carved with a volute, and the columns
+clusters of marble and freestone shafts. The arches, however,
+rest on the marble columns, which are, no doubt, those
+previously alluded to. The whole seems to have been
+coloured in fresco, and remains of this are still to be seen.
+The stone shafts, which alternate with those of marble, do not
+carry any of the weight of the arch, and are, undoubtedly, an
+addition, probably in the time of Cardinal Langley, when they
+<a name='Page_75' id='Page_75'></a><span class="pagenum">75</span>
+must have been added, with a view to improving the appearance.
+The dimensions of the chapel are forty-seven feet from
+east to west, and seventy-six feet from north to south. The
+existing roof and the three perpendicular windows on the west
+end are also additions by Cardinal Langley. On the walls
+above what were once the altars of the Virgin and Our Lady
+of Pity, remains of fresco painting may be noticed, all that
+remains of what has evidently been beautiful work. These
+were only brought to light by the removal of successive coats
+of whitewash with which they had been covered.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<a name="image31" id="image31"></a>
+<a href="images/image34.jpg">
+<img src="images/image34_th.jpg" alt="Detail of the Galilee Chapel." title="Detail of the Galilee Chapel." />
+</a><br />
+<span class="caption">Detail of the Galilee Chapel.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name='Page_77' id='Page_77'></a><span class="pagenum">77</span>
+When the Galilee was erected, access from the church was
+by the great west door of the cathedral. This was, however,
+closed up by Cardinal Langley, who constructed the two
+doorways at the end of the aisles by which the chapel is now
+entered. Those portions of the Norman wall arcading, which
+had to be removed by reason of the breaking through of the
+new doorways, were used to fill up the lower part of the great
+west door. The latter was again removed in 1846, when the
+west doorway was re-opened. Langley's two doorways have
+four centred arches enclosed beneath a square label moulding,
+with shields bearing the Cardinal's coat-of-arms in each
+spandrel. To Langley also may be attributed the five massive
+buttresses on the exterior of the western wall of the chapel,
+which partly cover the arcading and panelling with which it
+was decorated. In adding the new roof Langley raised the
+walls above the arches to carry it, giving a somewhat peculiar
+effect to the interior. The original roof lines can still be made
+out on the west wall. Of the contents of the chapel remaining,
+perhaps the most interesting to the visitor is the grave and site
+of the shrine of the Venerable Bede. The shrine, like that of
+S. Cuthbert's, is gone, and all that remains is the stone slab on
+which it once stood, and which bears the inscription (placed
+there in 1831):</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table summary="center poem">
+<tr><td align="left">Hac sunt in Fossa<br />
+Bædæ Venerabilis Ossa</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>This remarkable man was contemporary with S. Cuthbert,
+whom, as we have said, he survived forty-eight years. His
+holiness and piety, together with his great learning, earned for
+him the title Venerable, and after his death, in 735, his bones
+were enshrined. Of his parentage we know nothing, except
+<a name='Page_78' id='Page_78'></a><span class="pagenum">78</span>
+that, from his own writings, he was born in the territory of the
+Abbey of Wearmouth. At the age of seven he was being
+educated in that monastery, and by the time he was ten years
+old he moved to the newly-founded Abbey on the Tyne, at
+Jarrow. He had able and learned teachers in Benedict Bishop
+and Ceolfrid, and appears to have turned his advantages to the
+best account. Deacon at nineteen, and priest at twenty-nine
+years of age, he led a holy and studious life. After his
+ordination he wrote his &quot;Commentaries on the Scriptures,&quot; and
+writings on all the known sciences&mdash;geography, arithmetic, and
+astronomy. The greatest work of his life is, however, his
+&quot;Ecclesiastical History of the English Nation,&quot; to which we
+owe all our knowledge of the introduction of Christianity into
+Great Britain, and the early history of the English Church.
+It is dedicated to King Ceolwulf. His information was
+collected from various sources&mdash;by letter as to Canterbury, by
+communication with bishops and priors as to England
+generally, and from personal knowledge and very recent
+tradition as to Northumbria. He lived most of his long life
+between the monasteries of Monkwearmouth and Jarrow, and
+was buried at the latter. In the year 1022 his remains were
+secretly removed from Jarrow by Elfrid, who was the most
+unscrupulous relic-hunter of that time, who deposited a
+portion of them in the same coffin with those of S. Cuthbert.
+From here they were removed by Bishop Pudsey, and placed
+in the newly-erected Galilee Chapel, where he caused them to
+be enclosed in a magnificent shrine. &quot;There, in a silver
+casket gilt with gold, hee laid the bones of Venerable Bede,
+and erected a costly and magnificent shrine over
+it.&quot;<a name="FNanchor_F_6" id="FNanchor_F_6"></a><a href='#Footnote_F_6' class="fnanchor">6</a>
+When the shrine was destroyed at the suppression of the monastery,
+in 1542, the bones were interred beneath the place it occupied,
+where they remained undisturbed till the year 1831. In that
+year they were exhumed and examined, and, after being
+enclosed in a lead-lined coffin, were replaced in the tomb, with
+a parchment giving full details of the exhumation. Some
+coins and a ring which were found at this time are preserved
+in the Dean and Chapter Library. The inscription previously
+quoted was then cut on the upper slab of the tomb.</p>
+
+<p>In the Galilee Chapel is also the tomb of its restorer,
+Cardinal Langley, which was erected by himself in front of the
+<a name='Page_79' id='Page_79'></a><span class="pagenum">79</span>
+principal altar. On its head may be seen three shields bearing
+the arms of the cardinal.</p>
+
+<p>Four of the western windows of the chapel originally contained
+beautiful stained glass, a most careful description of
+which may be found in the &quot;Rites of Durham.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Why this chapel has always been known as the &quot;Galilee&quot;
+Chapel has been the subject of much discussion and conjecture,
+and is still a matter of uncertainty. That it was
+erected for a Lady Chapel there can, however, be no doubt.
+In the nave of the church, between the piers immediately to
+the west of the north and south doorways, the visitor will
+notice a dark-coloured marble cross, beyond which no woman
+was allowed to pass eastward.</p>
+
+<p><a name="III_10" id="III_10"></a><b>Monuments in the Nave and Transepts.</b>&mdash;The church
+of Durham is not rich in tombs and monuments to the dead.
+This is to be accounted for partly by the fact that for some
+centuries the Bishops of the diocese were interred in the
+chapter-house, and even most of these tombs have been lost or
+destroyed. Another reason for the scarcity of monuments is
+that no layman was allowed to be buried in the church until
+1367, when Lord Ralph Neville obtained that distinction for
+himself and his wife, the Lady Alice de Neville, who was
+buried in 1374. This monument occupies the third sub-bay
+from the east, on the south side of the nave. It is an altar
+tomb, and though it has suffered severely from mutilation
+during the unsettled times of the Reformation, sufficient
+remains to enable us to see that it was once a well-designed
+and noble monument. Its mouldings are bold, and there are
+indications of the places where figures were once attached to
+the sides. The recumbent effigies of the noble lord and his
+wife, on the top of the tomb, are, however, hopelessly smashed.
+It is probable that Lord Ralph Neville obtained this honour
+for himself through his services and victory at the Battle of
+Neville's Cross, near Durham, in 1346. In the next bay
+westward is the tomb of Lord John Neville, who died in
+1386. This is also an altar tomb, and has suffered severely,
+though it remains in a better state of preservation than
+the one just described. Its sides each have six niches, with
+elaborately ornamented canopies, and containing figures, while
+the ends have three similar niches with figures. The carving
+of the canopies is exceedingly beautiful. Between each of the
+<a name='Page_80' id='Page_80'></a><span class="pagenum">80</span>
+niches are two square panels
+with trefoiled heads, each panel
+bearing a shield with the arms
+of Neville and Percy. Both
+above and below the niches
+much delicate carving may be
+noticed. Surmounting all are
+the broken effigies of Lord John
+and his wife, who was the
+daughter of Lord Henry Percy,
+the well-known Hotspur. All
+the figures on this tomb, including
+the recumbent figures, are
+headless, but sufficient remains
+to show that they were of great
+excellence. Remains of colouring
+and gilding can also be
+distinguished in places on the
+monument.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 180px;" >
+<a name="image32" id="image32"></a>
+<a href="images/image35.jpg">
+<img src="images/image35_th.jpg" alt="The Font and Cover." title="The Font and Cover." /></a>
+<span class="caption">The Font and Cover.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Close to this is the slab and
+matrix of a brass to Robert
+Neville, who was bishop of the
+diocese from 1438 to 1457.
+The brass has all been removed,
+but the matrix shows a dignified
+figure of the bishop holding a
+crozier and a scroll, while an
+inscription formerly existed on a
+plate at his feet. Bishop Neville
+was known for his generous
+qualities, as well as for his high
+descent.</p>
+
+<p>In the western wall, on its
+south side, near to the entrance
+to the Galilee, is a mural tablet
+to a former Prebendary in the
+cathedral, and a well-known
+antiquary, Sir George Wheler,
+who died in the latter part of
+the seventeenth century. On
+the northern side is a slab to
+<a name='Page_81' id='Page_81'></a><span class="pagenum">81</span>
+the memory of Captain R.M. Hunter, who was killed while
+charging a Sikh battery at Ferozeshah.</p>
+
+<p>Opposite to the monument of Ralph Neville is a modern
+altar tomb to a former headmaster of Durham Grammar
+School, the Rev. James Britton, D.D., erected by his pupils.
+It is surmounted by a reclining figure of Dr. Britton, in academic
+robes, reading a book.</p>
+
+<p>In the south transept is a fine monument, by Chantrey, to
+the memory of Bishop Barrington, who held the see from 1791
+to 1826, dying at the advanced age of 92 years, beloved
+by all. He was a great prelate, and used his immense powers
+as Prince Palatine with great wisdom. The kneeling figure, with
+bowed head, the left hand resting on a book, in an attitude
+of deep reverence, is worthy of the name of its sculptor. On
+the west wall of the same transept is a tablet to the memory
+of the officers, non-commissioned officers, and privates of the
+Durham Light Infantry who were slain or died during the
+Crimean War.</p>
+
+<p>Near to this is a recently inserted brass to the memory of the
+officers and men of the 2nd Durham Regiment who died in
+Egypt and the Soudan.</p>
+
+<p>In the north transept we may give some attention to a
+monument to the Rev. John Carr, a former headmaster of
+Durham School. It was erected to his memory by his pupils.
+The monument was designed by Rickman, and is in the style
+known as Decorated Gothic.</p>
+
+<p><a name="III_11" id="III_11"></a>The <b>Font</b> stands at the west end of the nave. It is
+a comparatively modern work, covered by a tall wooden
+canopy which was erected by Bishop Cosin in 1663. The
+original Norman font was destroyed by the Scottish prisoners
+in 1650, and was replaced by a large marble basin by Bishop
+Cosin. This font, in its turn, was removed to Pittington
+Church, where it is now in use, its place being filled by the
+present modern one. It is designed in the Norman style,
+and is square, supported on short columns. The sides are
+carved with medallions, copied from illuminated MSS., which
+represent scenes from the life of S. Cuthbert. The cover
+deserves attention as a specimen of the woodwork of the
+seventeenth century, exhibiting a curious and characteristic
+mixture of Classic and Gothic forms and details.</p>
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a href="#CONTENTS">Table of<br />Contents</a><br />82</span><br />
+<a name='Page_82' id='Page_82'></a></p>
+<h2>
+<a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>
+CHAPTER IV<br />
+<span class="subtitle">History of the See</span></h2>
+
+<p>The earlier history of the see of Durham has already been
+referred to in order to lead up to the founding of the cathedral.
+We have seen how the bishop and monks of Lindisfarne fled
+and wandered with the relics of their beloved S. Cuthbert,
+eventually settling at Chester-le-Street, until, in the year 990,
+Bishop Aldhun, in terror of the Danes, again fled southward to
+Ripon. The country at this time was ruled by that weak
+monarch, Ethelred the Unready, and the Danes, finding no
+determined opposition, continually made piratical incursions,
+and eventually, through the treachery of three chieftains, the
+Castle of Bamburgh fell into their hands. After an interval of
+three or four months peace was made with the invaders, and
+Aldhun and his monks ventured to return towards Chester-le-Street.
+It was during this journey, at a place called Wredelau,
+that the car carrying the saint stuck fast, and the incidents
+previously related occurred, which led to the founding of the
+Bishopric of Durham.</p>
+
+<p><b>Aldhun</b> may therefore be called the first Bishop of Durham.
+He held the see for twenty-nine years, and died in 1018.
+Aldhun it was who built the first or White Church, now
+destroyed. It is extremely probable that some of the stones of
+this church were used in the foundations of Carileph's choir
+and apses.</p>
+
+<p>After Aldhun's death the see remained vacant for three
+years, when he was succeeded by</p>
+
+<p><b>Edmund</b> (1020-1040). It is said that the monks could
+not agree as to who should succeed Aldhun, when one
+day Edmund, a presbyter, asked in a joke, &quot;Why not
+appoint me?&quot; Being a pious and a faithful man, they
+took him at his word, and, after much persuasion and
+fasting and prayer, he was consecrated. The choice was a
+<a name='Page_83' id='Page_83'></a><span class="pagenum">83</span>
+good one. Edmund was an energetic and beloved prelate.
+He died at Gloucester in 1041. One of the most important
+events during his episcopate was the invasion of Northumbria
+by Duncan, King of the Scots. He besieged Durham, but
+was beaten off, with great slaughter, and the heads of many of
+his men were exposed in the market-place.</p>
+
+<p><b>Egelric</b> (1042-1056) was the next bishop. He was an
+alien, and made himself obnoxious to the clergy and people.
+With the intention of rebuilding, he pulled down the wooden
+church at Chester-le-Street, which had been the seat of the
+bishopric for one hundred and thirteen years. A large quantity
+of treasure was found while digging foundations, and this
+Egelric appropriated and sent to his monastery at Peterborough,
+where he soon followed it. Before resigning the see
+of Durham, however, he secured the appointment of his
+brother to the bishopric. Some years later William the
+Conqueror called him to account for his behaviour in the
+matter of the treasure, and threw him into prison at Westminster,
+where he died in 1072.</p>
+
+<p><b>Egelwin</b> (1056-1071) succeeded, through the influence of
+his brother. He took part in the rebellion of Eadwin and
+Morcar, and, like his predecessor, died in prison. He was the
+last of the Saxon bishops.</p>
+
+<p><b>Walcher</b> (1071-1080). William I. found the Church in
+great disorder and made many changes. He filled most of
+the sees by the appointment of Norman bishops. To Durham
+he elected Walcher. The latter was a man of gentle disposition,
+but his chaplain, Leobwin, and Gilbert, a kinsman of his
+own, to whom he entrusted most of his affairs, were hated by
+the people, over whom they exercised great tyranny. At
+length a noble, named Lyulph, ventured to remonstrate with
+them, and in their rage they had him assassinated. The
+people were furious, and the bishop vainly denied any knowledge
+of the deed. He called a meeting at Gateshead. Here
+a tremendous tumult arose, the mob crying, &quot;Good rede,
+short rede, slay ye the bishop,&quot; and eventually setting
+fire to the church. The bishop was eventually reduced
+to a choice of facing the mob or being burnt in the
+church. He chose the former, and, covering his face with
+his robe, went out. He was immediately slain on the
+threshold, and dreadfully mutilated. His body was removed
+<a name='Page_84' id='Page_84'></a><span class="pagenum">84</span>
+by the monks to Jarrow, and afterwards to Durham, where
+he was buried.</p>
+
+<p><b>William of S. Carileph</b> (1080-1096) was next
+appointed bishop. He was a man of great attainments. To
+him we owe the founding of the present cathedral. Carileph
+also made an important change, by the removal from Durham
+of the secular clergy, and their replacement by Benedictine
+monks drawn from Jarrow and Monkwearmouth. The foundations
+of the new church were laid on 29th July 1093, the
+Bishop and Prior Turgot being present. He did not live to
+see it very far advanced, being taken ill at Windsor. He
+died about Christmas 1096.</p>
+
+<p><b>Ranulph Flambard</b> (1099-1128).&mdash;The see was kept
+vacant for three years by William Rufus, when he appointed
+Flambard, a great builder. He built the nave and aisles, the
+west doorway and lower part of the western towers, and
+vaulted the aisles. He also built Framwellgate Bridge over
+the Wear at Durham, erected and endowed S. Giles' Church,
+Durham, and was the founder of Norham Castle on the
+Tweed.</p>
+
+<p><b>Galfrid Rufus</b> (1133-1140) was his successor. His
+episcopate was much disturbed by wars with the Scots. The
+chapter-house was finished during his time of office.</p>
+
+<p><b>William de S. Barbara</b> (1143-1152) was next
+appointed. Extraordinary events marked his election. William
+Cumin, chancellor of the Scottish king, attempted to take the
+bishopric for himself, and succeeded so far as to capture the
+castle with the aid of the Scots. The rightful bishop was not
+able to gain possession for sixteen months after his election.
+Cumin submitted in 1144.<a name='Page_85' id='Page_85'></a><span class="pagenum">85</span>
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<a name="image33" id="image33"></a>
+<a href="images/image36.jpg">
+<img src="images/image36_th.jpg" alt="The Crypt." title="The Crypt." /></a><br />
+<span class="caption">The Crypt.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><b>Hugh Pudsey</b> (1153-1195) now succeeded to the
+bishopric at the age of twenty-five. He bought for life the
+earldom of Northumberland and the manor of Sadberg. In
+1187 the news of the capture of Jerusalem by the Saracens
+spread consternation in the Church, and Pudsey prepared to
+accompany King Henry to the East. He fitted out ships and
+galleys in a most sumptuous manner, his own having a seat for
+himself of solid silver. Neither he nor King Henry embarked
+in the crusade, however. The king died, and Richard his
+son undertook the expedition, leaving Bishop Pudsey and
+Longchamp, Bishop of Ely, as justiciaries for the northern and
+<a name='Page_87' id='Page_87'></a><span class="pagenum">87</span>
+southern portions of the kingdom respectively. These two
+quarrelled, and Pudsey was decoyed to London by Longchamp,
+and committed to the Tower. He soon obtained his
+release, but was compelled to resign the earldom of Northumberland.
+In 1195 he undertook a journey to London
+to see the king, and endeavour to obtain restitution of his
+honours and possessions, but was taken ill, and died on the
+way, at Howden. His work in the cathedral we have seen.
+He also built the great hall of the castle, most of the beautiful
+Church of S. Cuthbert at Darlington, and the Elvet Bridge over
+the Wear at Durham, and founded the hospital at Sherburn,
+near Durham. Darlington Church, which would well repay a
+visit, is a fine specimen of Early Pointed architecture, second
+only to the Galilee of Durham, the two showing in a wonderful
+manner the rapid development of the change which was taking
+place in architectural style during Pudsey's time.</p>
+
+<p><b>Philip de Pictavia</b> (1197-1208), elected at the urgent
+request of the king. He was continually at loggerheads with
+his clergy. He supported King John against the Pope, and
+was for this excommunicated; died in 1208, and was buried
+in unconsecrated ground. This bishop is said to have had the
+permission of the king to coin money at Durham.</p>
+
+<p><b>Richard de Marisco</b> (1217-1226) was elected after an
+interval of nearly ten years. The feud with the monks continued
+during his episcopate, and the bishop swore the Church
+of Durham should have no peace while he lived; threatened
+that if a monk should show himself beyond his cloister he
+should lose his head; and once, when his servants had beaten
+a monk, and the man complained, he replied that it was a
+pity they did not kill him. He died at Peterborough in
+1226.</p>
+
+<p><b>Richard le Poore</b> (1229-1237), who was the next bishop,
+elected after the see had been vacant two years and four
+months, was translated from Salisbury, where he had commenced
+building the new cathedral. He ended the dispute
+between the monks and the Bishop of Durham by an agreement
+known as &quot;Le Convenit.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><b>Nicholas de Farnham</b> (1241-1248) became bishop after
+a three years' dispute with the king. He resigned in 1248.</p>
+
+<p><b>Walter de Kirkham</b> (1249-1260), Dean of York, was
+next elected.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width:164px;" >
+<a name="image34" id="image34"></a>
+<a href="images/image37.png">
+<img src="images/image37_th.png"  alt="Stone Coffin Lid."  title="Stone Coffin Lid." /></a>
+<span class="caption">Stone Coffin Lid.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name='Page_88' id='Page_88'></a><span class="pagenum">88</span>
+<b>Robert de Stitchill</b> (1261-1274), Prior of Finchale, succeeded
+him. Dissensions again arose between the bishop and
+the monks. He died on his return from France, where he
+had attended a council at Lyons.
+He was buried in a monastery in
+France, but his heart was brought to
+Durham, and buried in the chapter-house.</p>
+
+<p><b>Robert de Insula</b> (1274-1283),
+a native of Holy Island, as his name
+suggests, was then elected bishop.
+His tenure of office was peaceful.</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Anthony Bek</b> (1283-1310). The
+next bishop was of noble birth, the
+son of Walter Bek, Baron of Eresby,
+in Lincolnshire. He took part with
+Edward I. in his expedition to Scotland,
+and, being very wealthy, was of
+great assistance to the king. His
+following consisted of twenty-six
+standard bearers, one hundred and
+forty knights, and an army of five
+thousand foot and five hundred horse.
+He was employed by the king, with
+success, in many important State
+matters. In the year 1300 trouble
+again arose with the monks. Some
+of them being dissatisfied with the
+Prior Hotoun, the bishop proposed
+to hold a visitation. The prior refusing
+to admit him unless he came
+unattended, the bishop deposed and
+excommunicated him. The convent
+took sides, some with the bishop and
+some with the prior, and it was only
+on the interference of the king that a partial peace was restored.
+The quarrel soon reopened. Some men made a complaint
+against the bishop. He had compelled them to take arms under
+him in the Scottish war, and had imprisoned some who had
+returned without leave. The barons upheld the men, and it
+led to them taking sides with Prior Hotoun in his dispute.
+<a name='Page_89' id='Page_89'></a><span class="pagenum">89</span>
+The bishop, calling the monks together, ordered them to elect
+a new prior, which they promptly refused to do. On this the
+bishop appointed Henry de Luceby of Holy Island to be prior
+of Durham, and brought men from Weardale and Tynedale to
+expel the old prior. They laid siege to the convent, and for
+three days Prior Hotoun and forty-six monks were shut up
+with only six loaves and sixteen herrings. They continued
+the services however. On the third day a Tynedale man was
+sent to pull the prior out of his stall, but was so awed by his
+venerable appearance that he dared not touch him. A monk
+on the bishop's side, however, did the work. Prior Luceby
+was installed, and Prior Richard seized and imprisoned. He
+soon escaped, however, and carried his complaint before
+Parliament, and afterwards to the Pope, Boniface VIII. The
+Pope decided in his favour, and Hotoun returned to Durham,
+and Luceby and his friends were obliged to go, though they
+tried, when doing so, to carry off some silver plate and other
+valuables. Bek continued in great splendour until his death
+in 1310. When he died he was king of the Isle of Man,
+Patriarch of Jerusalem, Bishop of Durham, and Prince
+Palatine.</p>
+
+<p><b>Richard de Kellaw</b> (1311-1316), formerly a monk of
+Durham, succeeded Bek. He was a good and learned man,
+and lived in harmony with the monks.</p>
+
+<p><b>Louis de Beaumont</b> (1318-1333) was next appointed
+bishop, after great competition and intrigue. He was chosen
+in opposition to the wishes of the chapter, who had elected
+Stamford, Prior of Finchale, to succeed Kellaw. On his way
+to Durham for consecration and enthronement, accompanied
+by two cardinals and a large retinue, he was waylaid at
+Rushyford by a band of ruffians under Gilbert Middleton.
+They plundered the cardinals, but carried the bishop a
+prisoner to Mitford Castle. His release was only secured
+on payment by the monastery of a heavy ransom. He was an
+ignorant man, and so innocent of Latin that he could not read
+his profession of obedience, being continually prompted.
+Later, at an ordination, he stumbled over the words &quot;<i>in
+&oelig;nigmate</i>&quot; and cried in French, &quot;<i>Par Seynt Lewis, il ne fuit
+pas curtays qui cest parole ici escrit.</i>&quot; &quot;By Saint Lewis he was
+no gentleman who wrote this word.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><b>Richard de Bury</b> (1333-1345), who succeeded, was a
+<a name='Page_90' id='Page_90'></a><span class="pagenum">90</span>
+great scholar, tutor to Edward III., and author of &quot;Philobiblon,&quot;
+a book still extant. He was a good man, and very
+kind to the poor.</p>
+
+<p><b>Thomas de Hatfield</b> (1345-1381) was, like Bishop Bek,
+a warrior ecclesiastic. Soon after his election he led eighty
+archers to the siege of Calais. His episcopate was notable for
+the wars with the Scots, and the great victory obtained over
+them, with the capture of King David and many nobles, at
+Neville's Cross, near Durham. Fifteen thousand Scots were
+slain. The victory was attributed to the presence of the
+sacred banner of S. Cuthbert, which Prior John Fossor took to
+a place near the battlefield, kneeling in prayer the while for
+success. A hymn of thanksgiving was appointed to be sung
+on the top of the cathedral tower on each anniversary of the
+battle. This custom is still carried out, though the day has
+been changed to the twenty-ninth of May. Hatfield was a
+liberal supporter of Durham College at Oxford. He erected
+his own tomb in the choir of the cathedral, in which he was
+afterwards buried.</p>
+
+<p><b>John Fordham</b> (1381-1388), secretary to Richard II., and
+Canon of York, was next elected. Suspected of giving bad
+advice to the king, he was compelled to resign, but was given
+the inferior bishopric of Ely, where he lived to extreme old age,
+dying in 1425.</p>
+
+<p><b>Walter de Skirlaw</b> (1388-1405), translated from Bath
+and Wells, was a munificent prelate. He built bridges at
+Shincliffe, Bishop Auckland, and Yarm; a refuge tower, a
+beautiful chapter-house (now in ruins) at Howden; and was a
+large contributor to the expense of building the central tower
+of York Cathedral. His work in the building of the cloisters
+of Durham has already been referred to.</p>
+
+<p><b>Thomas Langley</b> (1406-1437) succeeded. He was
+Chancellor of England, Dean of York, and in 1411 was made
+a cardinal. He occupied the see during part of the reign of
+Henry IV., the whole of that of Henry V., and fifteen years of
+that of Henry VI. He founded two schools on the Palace
+Green at Durham, and in his will left collections of books
+to many colleges.</p>
+
+<p><b>Robert Neville</b> (1437-1457), son of the Earl of Westmoreland
+and his wife Joan, who was a daughter of John
+of Gaunt. He was therefore uncle of the Earl of Warwick,
+<a name='Page_91' id='Page_91'></a><span class="pagenum">91</span>
+the &quot;king-maker&quot; of Richard III. and of Edward IV. He
+had a peaceful episcopate of nineteen years, and was buried in
+the cathedral, in the south aisle near his ancestors.</p>
+
+<p><b>Laurance Booth</b> (1457-1476), Canon of York and
+Lichfield, Archdeacon of Richmond, and Dean of S. Paul's,
+was the next bishop. He was a supporter of the House of
+Lancaster. He was translated to the archbishopric of York
+in 1476, the first of the bishops of Durham who was raised to
+that dignity.</p>
+
+<p><b>William Dudley</b> (1476-1483), Dean of Windsor, succeeded
+him.</p>
+
+<p><b>John Sherwood</b> (1483-1494), who was appointed next,
+was a learned man, and made a large collection of Greek
+manuscripts. He died in Rome in 1494.</p>
+
+<p><b>Richard Fox</b> (1494-1501) was translated from Bath and
+Wells after the see had remained vacant for eleven months.
+Nothing of particular moment occurred during his episcopate.
+He was an early patron and helper of Wolsey, and lived to
+regret having assisted him. He made alterations in the castle
+at Durham. He was translated to the see of Winchester in
+1501, and died in 1528.</p>
+
+<p><b>William Sinews</b> or <b>Sever</b> (1502-1505), translated from
+Carlisle. He is said to have been the son of a sieve-maker at
+Shincliffe, near Durham.</p>
+
+<p><b>Christopher Bainbridge</b> (1507-1508), Dean of York,
+was next elected, and after an episcopate of one year was
+translated to York. In 1511 he was sent to Rome as
+ambassador by Henry VIII., and while there was created
+cardinal. He died in Rome, poisoned by a servant whom
+he had struck in anger.</p>
+
+<p><b>Thomas Ruthall</b> (1509-1522), Dean of Salisbury, was
+the next bishop. He was immensely wealthy, and his love
+of money brought him into disgrace. King Henry commanded
+him to draw up an account of the lands and
+revenues of the Crown. The bishop, in error, sent to the
+king the wrong book, in which was set forth an account of
+his own possessions. The king, though tampered with by
+Wolsey, made no use of the knowledge thus obtained. But
+the affair rankled in the mind of the bishop, and is said to
+have hastened his death.</p>
+
+<p><b>Thomas Wolsey</b> (1522-1528) was appointed to succeed
+<a name='Page_92' id='Page_92'></a><span class="pagenum">92</span>
+him. The famous cardinal held the see for six years, as
+well as that of York. During the whole of his episcopate
+he never visited Durham, and in 1528 he resigned it for
+the see of Winchester.</p>
+
+<p><b>Cuthbert Tunstall</b> (1530-1559) was translated from
+London by a Papal Bull, the last used for this purpose.
+Tunstall was a remarkable man, and he occupied the see
+during an important period of Church history, the Reformation,
+all the stages of which he saw. During his episcopacy,
+the great privileges of the bishops of Durham as Princes
+Palatine were very much curtailed. In 1526, while Tunstall
+was Bishop of London, the English translation of the New
+Testament by Tyndall appeared, causing great alarm among
+the clergy. The part played by Tunstall in relation to this
+is well known. He opposed the supremacy of King Henry
+as head of the Church, but eventually gave up the struggle
+and preached in its favour. The monastery of Durham was
+suppressed in 1540, and a dean and twelve canons appointed.
+Soon after the accession of Edward VI., Bishop Tunstall
+was committed to the Tower and deprived of his see, on
+a charge of having encouraged rebellion in the north. On
+the accession of Mary to the throne he was released and
+restored, but there would seem to be no grounds for supposing
+that he took any part in the cruelties practised during
+her reign. When Elizabeth became queen, Tunstall refused
+to take the oath, and was again deprived of his see, and,
+being now an old man, was committed to the custody of
+his friend Archbishop Parker (Canterbury), with whom he
+lived till his death in 1559. He was a scholarly prelate,
+of a kindly nature, and was held in universal esteem.</p>
+
+<p><b>James Pilkington</b> (1560-1575) left the buildings of the
+see in a ruinous condition.</p>
+
+<p><b>Richard Barnes</b> (1575-1587), translated from Carlisle.
+He is said to have been removed to Durham in order to
+spy upon the correspondence and messengers of the unfortunate
+Mary Queen of Scots.</p>
+
+<p><b>Matthew Hutton</b> (1589-1594), Dean of York, was the
+next bishop. A man of great learning, and considered one
+of the best preachers of his day. He was translated to York
+in 1594.</p>
+
+<p><b>Tobias Matthew</b> (1595-1606), Dean of Durham, was his
+<a name='Page_93' id='Page_93'></a><span class="pagenum">93</span>
+successor. He was also a great preacher, and was celebrated
+for his wit. He was translated to York.</p>
+
+<p><b>William James</b> (1606-1617), Dean of Durham, was next
+elected.</p>
+
+<p><b>Richard Neile</b> (1617-1627) was translated from Lincoln.
+He was remarkable as being the only bishop who held six
+sees successively&mdash;viz. 1608, Rochester; 1610, Lichfield;
+1613, Lincoln; 1617, Durham; 1627, Winchester; and 1631,
+Archbishop of York. He did much to help forward men
+of learning and ability by giving them preferment in his see,
+and reserving apartments for their use in Durham House,
+London, which became known as Durham College. He
+spent large sums of money on repairs to the buildings at
+Durham.</p>
+
+<p><b>George Monteigne</b> (1628), Bishop of London, only
+held the see of Durham for three months, when he was
+translated to York.</p>
+
+<p><b>John Howson</b> (1628-1631), Bishop of Oxford, held the
+see for two years, and died in 1631.</p>
+
+<p><b>Thomas Morton</b> (1632-1659), translated from Lichfield.
+The North of England was much disturbed in 1640 by the
+invasion of the Scots, and Bishop Morton fled&mdash;first to
+Stockton, afterwards to York&mdash;and never returned to his
+diocese. The successful Scots levied heavy taxes on the
+district for the maintenance of their troops, as much as &pound;850 a
+day being demanded. In 1646, Episcopacy was abolished, and
+the estates of the bishops ordered to be sold. Thus we find
+at Durham the castle sold to the Mayor of London for &pound;1267
+and Durham, Borough, and Framwellgate disposed of to
+the Corporation for &pound;200. The bishop lived a life of suffering
+in London, cared for by his friends, till his death in
+1659, at the age of ninety-four. During his episcopate, in
+1656, Oliver Cromwell arranged for the founding of a college
+in Durham, but his death prevented him carrying out his
+scheme. His son, however, did so, and it flourished until
+the Restoration, which, by giving back property to its rightful
+owners, put an end to its existence.</p>
+
+<p><b>John Cosin</b> (1660-1671), Canon of Durham, was the first
+bishop after the Restoration. He was a most munificent
+prelate, leaving many charitable bequests. He spent large
+sums in the restoration of the cathedral and castle and the
+<a name='Page_94' id='Page_94'></a><span class="pagenum">94</span>
+palace at Bishop Auckland. He built a hospital for eight
+poor people, and erected a library on the palace green.</p>
+
+<p><b>Nathaniel Crewe</b> (1642-1722), translated from Oxford.
+He was a strong supporter of King James II., but afterwards
+took the oath of allegiance to William and Mary. He was
+noted for his charity and munificence, and left large sums to
+the poor, and in scholarships tenable by natives of Durham.</p>
+
+<p><b>William Talbot</b> (1722-1730), translated from Salisbury.</p>
+
+<p><b>Edward Chandler</b> (1730-1750), Bishop of Lichfield, was
+next elected. He gave &pound;2000 to be laid out for the benefit
+of the widows of clergymen of his diocese.</p>
+
+<p><b>Joseph Butler</b> (1750-1752) was translated from Bristol.
+He is best known as the author of &quot;The Analogy of Religion,
+Natural and Revealed.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><b>Richard Trevor</b> (1752-1771), Bishop of S. David's, a
+learned, pious, and unostentatious man. He left &pound;200 in his
+will to the poor of Durham and Auckland.</p>
+
+<p><b>John Egerton</b> (1771-1787), Bishop of Lichfield, was next
+elected. He married the daughter of Henry, Duke of Kent,
+and his eldest son afterwards became Earl of Bridgewater.</p>
+
+<p><b>Thomas Thurlow</b> (1787-1791) was translated to Durham
+from Lincoln. He was brother of the Lord Chancellor.</p>
+
+<p><b>Shute Barrington</b> (1791-1826) was the next bishop,
+having previously held the sees of Llandaff and Salisbury. A
+most beneficent prelate; his charities, especially those for the
+founding of schools and augmentation of poor livings, were
+magnificent. During his episcopacy, external repairs to the
+cathedral having become absolutely necessary, James Wyatt,
+who had already done such mischief at Salisbury, was given
+charge of the work. Then it was that the paring process,
+spoken of previously, was completed, the chapter-house destroyed,
+and the Galilee Chapel only saved from destruction
+by the intervention of Dean Cornwallis. Wyatt's other wild
+schemes, to extend the choir eastwards, to the utter ruin of the
+Nine Altar Chapel, to remove the beautiful Neville screen, and
+surmount the central tower of the church by a spire, were
+happily checked in time, or there is no saying to what
+extent the building would have been mutilated. Bishop
+Barrington died in London, in his ninety-third year.</p>
+
+<p><b>William Van Mildert</b> (1826-1836), Bishop of Llandaff,
+succeeded to the see. During his episcopate, many important
+<a name='Page_95' id='Page_95'></a><span class="pagenum">95</span>
+changes were made. The Ecclesiastical Commission, appointed
+in 1833, to consider in what manner the funds of the
+Church might be made more available for the purposes for
+which they were intended, decided to give future bishops a
+fixed yearly payment, and to reduce the number of canons
+from twelve to six. On the appointment of a new bishop,
+the Palatinate was to be annexed by the State. Thus Van
+Mildert was the last Count Palatine. Before these changes
+came into force, however, the bishop and the dean and
+chapter founded and endowed the university out of the
+revenues of the see, for the use of which the bishop gave up
+the castle. Bishop Van Mildert was a man of great charity,
+and though his income was immense, he died comparatively
+poor. He died in February 1836, and was interred in the
+chapel of the Nine Altars.</p>
+
+<p><b>Edward Maltby</b> (1836-1856), his successor, was translated
+from Chichester, and held the see for twenty years, when,
+owing to advanced age and increasing infirmity, he resigned
+in 1856.</p>
+
+<p><b>Charles Thomas Longley</b> (1856-1860), first Bishop of
+Ripon, was next elected. He was a popular and much-beloved
+prelate. In 1860 he was created Archbishop of
+York, and two years later was translated to Canterbury.</p>
+
+<p><b>Hon. Henry Montague Villiers</b> (1860-1861) was translated
+from Carlisle. A fine preacher, his episcopate was all too
+short. He died, after much suffering, in 1861.</p>
+
+<p><b>Charles Baring</b> (1861-1878), Bishop of Gloucester and
+Bristol, succeeded him. A man of unbounded charity and
+goodness, he won the affection of all who knew him personally.
+He was compelled, through illness, to resign the see in 1878,
+and did not long survive his retirement.</p>
+
+<p><b>Joseph Barber Lightfoot</b> (1879-1889) was then elected
+to the see. A man of scholarly attainments, he is still too
+well known and remembered to need any detailed note. He
+came to Durham pledged to accomplish as soon as possible
+the division of the diocese, which promise he carried out by
+restoring the suppressed see of Hexham to Newcastle-on-Tyne.
+A fine tomb to the memory of Dr Lightfoot has been placed
+on the north side of the choir of the cathedral, and as a
+memorial of his episcopate the mutilated chapter-house has
+been restored.</p>
+
+<p><a name='Page_96' id='Page_96'></a><span class="pagenum">96</span>
+The present bishop is the <b>Right Rev. Brooke Foss
+Westcott, D.D.</b></p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p>In this place may conveniently be given the rough draft of
+the settlement of the see by King Henry VIII. at the Reformation.
+Although departed from in many instances, it throws
+a curious light on the king's intentions to keep up some
+semblance of a conventual institution with an active educational
+purpose.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table summary="Center table" width="100%">
+<tr><td colspan="4" align="center">DURESME.</td></tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>
+       <table summary="inset" style="margin-left: 0em;">
+       <tr>
+       <td align="left" valign="top">[Fol. 30.]</td>
+       <td align="left">Duresme<br />cum Cellis.</td>
+       <td align="left"><span class="xxl">}</span></td></tr></table>
+  </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">First a provoste of the College</td>
+  <td align="right">cc li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item xii prebendaryes and the moste parte of theym preachers vi
+        of them 1 markes and vi of them
+        xxvi&nbsp;li.&nbsp;xiii&nbsp;s.&nbsp;iiii&nbsp;d. by the yere</td>
+  <td align="right">ccclx li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item a Reader of humanytie in greke by the yere</td>
+  <td align="right">xx li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item a Reader of dyvynytie in hebrewe by the yere</td>
+  <td align="right">xx li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item a Reader bothe of devynytie and humanytie by the yere</td>
+  <td align="right">xx li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item a Reader of physyke</td>
+  <td align="right">xx li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item lx scollers to be tawghte both gramer and logyke in hebrewe
+    greke and lattyn every of them by the yere iii li.&nbsp;vi s.&nbsp;viii&nbsp;d.</td>
+  <td align="right">cc li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item xx studyentes in dyvynytie to be founde x att Oxenford, and
+    x att Cambryge every of them by the yere x li. </td>
+  <td align="right">cc li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item a Scolmaster for the same Scollers</td>
+  <td align="right">xx li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item an ussher</td>
+  <td align="right">x li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item viii petycanons to synge and serve in the quere every of them
+     x li. by the yere</td>
+  <td align="right">xxiiii&nbsp;li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item x laye men to synge and serve also in the quyre every of
+    them by yere vi li.&nbsp;xiii s.&nbsp;iiii d.</td>
+  <td align="right">lxvi&nbsp;li.&nbsp;xiii&nbsp;s.&nbsp;iiii&nbsp;d.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item x Chorysters every of
+     them by the yere fyve marks</td>
+  <td align="right">xxxiii&nbsp;li.&nbsp;vi&nbsp;s.&nbsp;viii d.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item a master of the Chylderne</td>
+  <td align="right">x&nbsp;li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item a Gospeller</td>
+  <td align="right">vi&nbsp;li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item a pysteller</td>
+  <td align="right">v&nbsp;li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item ii sextens</td>
+  <td align="right">vi&nbsp;li.&nbsp;xiii&nbsp;s.&nbsp;iiii&nbsp;d.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item xii poore men beynge olde servynge men decayed by warres
+     or in the Kyng's servyce every of
+     them vi&nbsp;li.&nbsp;xiii&nbsp;s.&nbsp;iiii&nbsp;d. by yere</td>
+  <td align="right">lxvi&nbsp;li.&nbsp;xiii&nbsp;s.&nbsp;iiii&nbsp;d.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+    <td colspan="4" class="tdfol">[Fol. 30. dors.]</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item yearly to be distrybuted in almes to poore house-holders</td>
+  <td align="right">lxvi&nbsp;li.&nbsp;xiii&nbsp;s.&nbsp;iiii&nbsp;d.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item for yearly reparacions</td>
+  <td align="right">lxvi&nbsp;li.&nbsp;xiii&nbsp;s.&nbsp;iiii&nbsp;d.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item to be employed yerely in makynge and mendynge of
+    hyghewayes</td>
+  <td align="right">lxvi&nbsp;li.&nbsp;xiii&nbsp;s.&nbsp;iiii&nbsp;d.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item to a Steward of the Landes</td>
+  <td align="right">vi&nbsp;li.&nbsp;xiii&nbsp;s.&nbsp;iiii&nbsp;d.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item to an Audytor</td>
+  <td align="right">x&nbsp;li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item to ii porters to kepe the gates and shave the Company </td>
+  <td align="right">x&nbsp;li.</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<p><a name='Page_97' id='Page_97'></a><span class="pagenum">97</span></p>
+<table summary="Center table" width="100%">
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item to one cheyf Butler for hys wages and dyete</td>
+  <td align="right">iiii&nbsp;li.&nbsp;xiiis.&nbsp;iiiid.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item to an under Butler for hys wages and dyete</td>
+  <td align="right">iii&nbsp;li.&nbsp;vis.&nbsp;viiid.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item one Cheyf Cooke for hys wages and dyete</td>
+  <td align="right">iiii&nbsp;li.&nbsp;xiiis.&nbsp;iiiid.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item oone Under Coke for hys wages and dyete </td>
+  <td align="right">iii&nbsp;li.&nbsp;vi&nbsp;s.&nbsp;viii&nbsp;d.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item for the provostes expences in receyvyng the Rentes and
+ surveyeng the landes by yere</td>
+  <td align="right">x&nbsp;li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Item to a Cato<sup>r</sup> to bye there dyetes for his wages and dyete and
+     makynge hys bockes of reconyngs by the yere</td>
+  <td align="right">vi&nbsp;li.&nbsp;xiiis.&nbsp;iiiid.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+    <td colspan="4" class="tdfol">[Fol. 31.]</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+    <td align="left" colspan="3" valign="bottom">Duresme</td>
+    <td align="right">
+      <table summary="inset">
+        <tr><td valign="bottom" align="right">M<sup>l</sup>DC</td>
+          <td valign="bottom" align="center">xx<br />iiii</td>
+          <td valign="bottom" align="left"> viii<sup>li</sup>  xi<sup>s</sup> viii<sup>d</sup>.</td></tr>
+       </table>
+    </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+    <td align="left" colspan="3" valign="bottom">Porciones deductæ</td>
+    <td align="right">
+      <table summary="inset">
+        <tr><td valign="bottom" align="right">M<sup>l</sup>DC</td>
+          <td valign="bottom" align="center">xx<br />iiii</td>
+          <td valign="bottom" align="left"> xiii<sup>li</sup> xiii<sup>s</sup> iiii<sup>d</sup>.</td></tr>
+      </table>
+    </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="2">Reman'</td>
+  <td align="right" colspan="2">lxxxxiiii<sup>li</sup> xviii<sup>s</sup> iii<sup>d</sup>.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+    <td class="tdfol" colspan="4">[Fol. 32.]</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+    <td colspan="4" align="left">A proporcion for mayntenance of Hospitalite Lernynge Dyvine
+ Service Almes and other necessarie Expences in the Cathedrall
+ Churche of Duresme to be erectyd foundyd and establysshed
+ by the King's Majesties goodnes.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+    <td colspan="4" align="center">
+      <table summary="inset">
+      <tr><td align="right" valign="bottom">Sm<sup>a</sup>&nbsp;M<sup>l</sup>DC</td>
+           <td align="center" valign="bottom">xx<br />iiii</td>
+           <td align="left" valign="bottom">&nbsp;viii<sup>li</sup> xi&nbsp;s. viii&nbsp;d.</td></tr>
+      </table>
+    </td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table summary="next section" width="100%" cellpadding="3">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+    <td align="center" colspan="2">HOSPITALITE.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+    <td align="center" colspan="2">
+    The dean cclxiii&nbsp;li.&nbsp;x&nbsp;s.&mdash;Prebend' xxxii&nbsp;li.&nbsp;vi&nbsp;s.&nbsp;viii&nbsp;d.<br />
+    Corpus of the deane and prebendaries.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Fyrste for the Deane for the corpus of his promotion which he shall
+    certaynlye receyve and accordinge wherunto he shall paye the
+    tenthes and fyrst frutes</td>
+  <td align="right" valign="bottom">xl&nbsp;li.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item to twelve prebendaries iche of them for the corpus of his
+ promotion viii<sup>li</sup> which he shall receyve certaynly by yere and
+ accordinge whereunto he shall paye the tenthes and fyrste fruytes</td>
+    <td align="right" valign="bottom">
+     <table summary="inset" width="100%"><tr>
+        <td align="center" valign="bottom">xx<br />iiii</td>
+        <td align="right" valign="bottom"> xvi&nbsp;li.</td></tr>
+     </table>
+    </td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+    <td align="center" colspan="2">DISTRIBUTIONS.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item to the deane for every daie of his residence to be payd by waie
+ of Cotidiane distribucion out of the common possession xii&nbsp;s.&nbsp;v&nbsp;d.
+ to be paid out of the same common possession which amountyth
+ in the yere</td>
+  <td align="right" valign="bottom">ccxxvi&nbsp;li.&nbsp;xii&nbsp;s.&nbsp;i&nbsp;d.</td>
+    <td rowspan="2">D<br/>C<br />x<br />x<br />x<br />&nbsp;<br />l<br />i.<br />&nbsp;<br />x<br />i<br />i<br />i<br />&nbsp;<br />s.<br />&nbsp;<br />i<br />&nbsp;<br />d.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item to eche prebendarye for every daie of his residence to be payd
+ by waie of Cotidiane distribucion out of the common possession
+ xvi<sup>d</sup> ob. over and besydes iiii&nbsp;s.&nbsp;ix&nbsp;d. ob. to be payd to every
+ of the prebendaries out of the same common possession which
+ in the hole yere amountith to the twelve said prebendaries to
+ the Summe</td>
+  <td align="right" valign="bottom">ccciiii&nbsp;li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+    <td colspan="2" class="tdfol">[Fol. 32 dors.]</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+    <td align="center" colspan="2">LEARNINGE.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item a reader in divinite for his yerely stypende to be paid of
+     the common possession</td>
+  <td align="right">xxvi&nbsp;li.&nbsp;xiii&nbsp;s.&nbsp;iiii&nbsp;d.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item to twelve scolers to be found at the Universite off Oxforde
+     every of them ix&nbsp;li.&nbsp;xi&nbsp;s.&nbsp;viii&nbsp;d. by yere</td>
+   <td>cxv&nbsp;li.</td>
+    <td rowspan="4" align="left">c<br />c<br />x<br />x<br />x<br />&nbsp;<br />li.<br />&nbsp;<br />vi<br />&nbsp;<br />s.<br />&nbsp;<br />v<br />i<br />i<br />i<br />&nbsp;<br />d.</td>
+    <td rowspan="4" align="left">c<br />c<br />i<br />i<br />i<sup>li</sup><br />&nbsp;<br />x<br />i<br />i<br />i<br />&nbsp;<br />i<br />i<br />i<br />i.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item to xviii scolers to be taught Gramer Greke and Latyn
+    every of them iiii&nbsp;li. by yere</td>
+  <td align="right">lxxii&nbsp;li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item to a scolemaster for the same scolars</td>
+  <td align="right">x&nbsp;li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item to an ussher for them</td>
+  <td align="right">vi&nbsp;li.&nbsp;xiii&nbsp;s.&nbsp;iiii&nbsp;d.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+    <td align="center" colspan="4">DYVINE SERVICE.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item to twelve petycanons eche of them x&nbsp;li. by yere for ther dyet
+ and wagys</td>
+  <td align="right">cxx&nbsp;li.</td>
+    <td rowspan="10" align="left">c<br />c<br />c<br />i<sup>li</sup></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item to tenne laymen syngars eche of them to have yerely for their
+ dyet and wagys vi&nbsp;li.&nbsp;xiii&nbsp;s.&nbsp;iiii&nbsp;d.</td>
+  <td align="right">lxvi&nbsp;li.&nbsp;xiii&nbsp;s.&nbsp;iiii&nbsp;d.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item to tenne Choristers eche of them lxvi&nbsp;s.&nbsp;viii&nbsp;d.</td>
+<td>xxiii&nbsp;li.&nbsp;vi.&nbsp;s.&nbsp;viii&nbsp;d.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item for a master to the Children for his dyet and wagys</td>
+  <td align="right">x.&nbsp;li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item to a Gospeller and Epistoler eche of them         vi&nbsp;li.&nbsp;xiiis.&nbsp;iiiid.</td>
+  <td align="right">xii&nbsp;li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item to twoo sextens</td>
+  <td align="right">xii li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item to a Cator</td>
+  <td align="right">vi&nbsp;li.&nbsp;xiii&nbsp;s.&nbsp;iiii&nbsp;d.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item to twoo buttellers</td>
+  <td align="right">xii&nbsp;li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item to two Cookes</td>
+  <td align="right">xii&nbsp;li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item to thre other commen servaantes as portor and ryngars eche of
+    them v&nbsp;li.</td>
+  <td align="right">xv&nbsp;li.</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<p><a name='Page_98' id='Page_98'></a><span class="pagenum">98</span></p>
+<table summary="center" width="100%">
+<tr>
+    <td colspan="4" align="left">Fol. 33.]</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+    <td align="center" colspan="4">ALMES.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item to eyght poore men eche of them yerely vi&nbsp;li.&nbsp;xiii.&nbsp;s.&nbsp;iiii&nbsp;d.</td>
+  <td align="right">liii&nbsp;li.&nbsp;vi&nbsp;s.&nbsp;viii&nbsp;d.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item to be yerely distributed in almes to householders</td>
+  <td align="right">lxvi&nbsp;li.&nbsp;xiii&nbsp;s.&nbsp;iiii&nbsp;d.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item to be yerely spente in mendynge of hyghways </td>
+  <td align="right">xx&nbsp;li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+    <td align="center" colspan="4">EXPENCES NECESSARIE.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item for yerely reparacions by Estymation.</td>
+  <td align="right">cxxxi&nbsp;li.&nbsp;viii&nbsp;s.&nbsp;v&nbsp;d.</td>
+    <td rowspan="5" align="center" colspan="2">xx<br />ciiii<br />&nbsp;<br />iiii<br />li.<br /><br />xv<br />s.<br /><br />x<br />d.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item in exspences yerely in surveynge the landes and receyvinge
+ the Rentes</td>
+  <td align="right">xx&nbsp;li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item in expences for wyne and wax </td>
+  <td align="right">xiii&nbsp;li.&nbsp;vi&nbsp;s.&nbsp;viii&nbsp;d.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item to a Stewarde of landes for his fee</td>
+  <td align="right">x&nbsp;li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item to an Auditor </td>
+  <td align="right">x&nbsp;li.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+    <td align="left">
+      <table summary="inset"><tr>
+        <td align="right" valign="bottom">Sum of the common M<sup>l</sup>CCC</td>
+        <td align="center" valign="bottom">xx<br />iiii</td>
+        <td align="left" valign="bottom"> vi&nbsp;li. xiii&nbsp;s. xd.</td></tr>
+      </table>
+    </td>
+    <td align="right" colspan="3">
+      <table summary="inset"><tr>
+        <td align="right" valign="bottom">M<sup>l</sup>CCCC</td>
+        <td align="center" valign="bottom">xx<br />iiii</td>
+        <td align="left" valign="bottom"> xvi<sup>li</sup> xv&nbsp;d.</td></tr>
+      </table>
+    </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Sum totall of all thies percels </td>
+  <td align="right" colspan="3">M<sup>l</sup>Dxxii<sup>li</sup> xiii<sup>s</sup> x<sup>d</sup>.</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<p>
+Above which chargys the church indewyd with landes to susteyne the
+same muste pay yerely tenthes and a certayne summe by composition for
+the fyrste frutes deducted and abbayted.</p>
+
+<p class="deepdent">Cxxxvi&nbsp;li. payd by the deane and prebendaries severall.<br />
+ cxl&nbsp;li. to be allowyd by statute for almes.<br />
+ x&nbsp;li. for the stewarde allowyd by statute.<br />
+ x&nbsp;li. for the Auditors fee allowyd by statute.</p>
+
+<table summary="center" width="100%">
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" valign="bottom">The hole sume of deductions</td>
+  <td>
+    <table summary="center"><tr>
+      <td align="right" valign="bottom">CC</td>
+      <td align="center" valign="bottom">xx<br />iiii</td>
+      <td align="left" valign="bottom"> xvi&nbsp;li.</td></tr>
+    </table>
+  </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">And so remaynes chargeable with tenthes and fyrst frutes</td>
+  <td align="right" colspan="3">M<sup>l</sup>CCxxvi&nbsp;li. xiii&nbsp;s. x&nbsp;d.</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<table summary="center" width="100%">
+<tr>
+    <td class="tdfol" colspan="3">[Fol. 33. dors.]</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left" colspan="3">Whereof to be payd for the tenthes of the commen possession</td>
+  <td rowspan="4">ccxvi<br />li.<br />&nbsp;<br />ix<br />s.<br />&nbsp;<br />vi<br />d.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right" valign="bottom">cxliiii&nbsp;li.&nbsp;vi&nbsp;s.&nbsp;iiii&nbsp;d.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Item a yerely Rent to be payd by composition for the fyrste frutes</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right" valign="bottom">lxxii&nbsp;li.&nbsp;xii&nbsp;s.&nbsp;iid.</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+<p class="outdent">And so the Cathedrale Churche for mayntenance of the said yerely
+charges and paymente touchinge hospitalite lernynge divine
+service almes necessarie exspences tenthes and fyrst frutes
+after the Rates before mentionyd must yf the said shall lyke
+the Kings majestic be indewyd with yerely Revenues of the
+summe of <span class="ul">M<sup>l</sup>DCCxxxix<sup>li</sup> xiii&nbsp;s. iiii&nbsp;d.</span></p>
+
+<p class="right">MDCCxii&nbsp;li.&nbsp;x&nbsp;s.</p>
+
+<p><a name='Page_99' id='Page_99'></a><span class="pagenum">99</span></p>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<a name="image35" id="image35"></a>
+<a href="images/image38.jpg">
+<img src="images/image38_th.jpg" alt="The Chapter Library." title="The Chapter Library." />
+</a><br />
+<span class="caption">The Chapter Library.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a href="#CONTENTS">Table of<br />Contents</a><br />102</span><br />
+<a name='Page_102' id='Page_102'></a></p>
+<h2>
+<a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>
+CHAPTER V<br />
+<span class="subtitle">The Castle and University</span></h2>
+
+<p>No notice of Durham and its cathedral would seem complete
+without some mention being made of its fortress, the growth
+of which has been contemporary with, and, we might almost
+say, inseparable from that of the monastery itself.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 293px;">
+<a name="image36" id="image36"></a>
+<a href="images/image39.png">
+<img src="images/image39_th.png"
+  alt="The Chapel or Crypt, Durham Castle."  title="The Chapel or Crypt, Durham Castle." /></a>
+<span class="caption">The Chapel or Crypt, Durham Castle.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>There can be little doubt that other than the miraculous
+considerations assigned to them by tradition influenced the
+monks and the congregation of S. Cuthbert in their final
+choice of a resting-place for the bones of their beloved saint.
+The almost impregnable position of the rocky promontory
+upon which both Cathedral and Castle stand suggests a careful
+selection on their part, with a view to the prevention of attack
+and consequent further disturbance of their sacred relics.
+What the first fortification was is a matter of doubt; most
+probably it was merely a wall or rampart of earth, with a large
+artificial mound at the weakest point. This seems to have
+been the usual practice at an early date at many other places
+in England, and in some cases their date is known and
+corresponds to the time at which Durham was probably first
+fortified. Whatever the earliest protections were, we know
+that in 1072 William the Conqueror, on his way from Scotland,
+passed through Durham. He quickly perceived the natural
+advantages and strength of the position, and gave orders for
+the erection of a castle. This was at once set about, during
+the episcopacy of Bishop Walcher, and continued under
+Carileph and Flambard. Of this building, which might be
+styled &quot;The Conqueror's Castle,&quot; not much remains. The
+most important is the <b>Chapel</b> or Crypt, which belongs, no
+doubt, to the earlier part of the period named (1080 to 1096).
+In plan the chapel has a nave and two aisles. The roof
+is vaulted, the ribs being plain, semi-circular, and square
+recessed, and is supported by six circular columns. The
+<a name='Page_103' id='Page_103'></a><span class="pagenum">103</span>
+capitals of these columns are a somewhat interesting feature,
+owing to their Lombardic character. The abaci are square and
+moulded, while the caps proper carry at their angles rudely
+carved volutes such as occur in the White Tower, London.
+Each capital is also carved differently with curious and rude
+<a name='Page_104' id='Page_104'></a><span class="pagenum">104</span>
+devices. Of the three windows which terminated the nave
+and aisle at the east end, one has been destroyed to make
+way for a staircase and the other two are built up. The
+original windows of the chapel were very narrow and widely
+splayed. In the walls are an aumbrey and the remains of
+two altars.</p>
+
+<p>Other remains of this date are somewhat scattered. Two
+windows in the undercroft of Bishop Bek's, or what is now
+known as <b>Bishop Hatfield's Hall</b>, are examples. They
+have converging jambs, the semi-circular heads being cut from
+one stone and the inside very widely splayed. The wall from
+the keep to the chapel, and that from the keep to the gateway
+are also Norman work, as are also portions of the gateway
+itself.</p>
+
+<p>The next important changes in the castle were made by
+Bishop Pudsey, 1153-1195, who not only repaired the existing
+work but built a hall, known as <b>Pudsey's Hall</b>. Although
+this hall has now almost entirely disappeared, through repairs
+and alterations, sufficient evidence as to its whereabouts and
+general plan is forthcoming. It was of two storeys, the lower
+and upper halls. Entrance to the lower hall was originally
+gained by a staircase which led from the courtyard to the
+splendid doorway now enclosed in Tunstall's Gallery. This
+magnificent entrance having been covered with lath and
+plaster, and for long completely forgotten, was unearthed by,
+and at the expense of Bishop Barrington, early in the present
+century. It is in good preservation and is a splendid specimen
+of rich Norman architecture. It consists of five orders, all
+richly carved and moulded. Three orders rest on carved
+capitals and shafts, and two are carried down the jambs of
+the doorway. The stairway has entirely disappeared, but
+there is little room to doubt that it would be of much the
+same character as that in the close at Canterbury; and to the
+protection afforded by the staircase roof, we are, no doubt,
+indebted for the good preservation of the arch mouldings of
+the doorway itself.</p>
+
+<p>What was originally Pudsey's Upper Hall is now styled the
+<b>Norman Gallery</b>. The greater portion of this gallery is
+at the present time divided into chambers of residence for the
+students of the university. It is reached by the Black Staircase
+and a doorway in the Early English Gothic style. The
+<a name='Page_105' id='Page_105'></a><span class="pagenum">105</span>
+interior of the south and west walls are enriched by arcades
+in groups of three, the central bay of each of which is larger
+than those flanking it, and is pierced by a window. The
+arches of the arcade rest on shafts and cushion capitals, and
+are carved with chevron ornament. The whole arrangement
+hereabouts bears the impress of having been a portion of one
+great building, which an examination of the roof, lead, and
+general outline makes even more certain.</p>
+
+<p>On the western side of the courtyard stands the great
+<b>Bek's Hall</b>, built by the bishop of that name. It is above
+the Norman undercroft, previously mentioned. Much of its
+original character is now lost, owing to restorations, curtailments,
+and alterations. Bek's doorway is still in existence,
+though much hidden by the porch erected later by Bishop
+Cosin. It has a pointed arch of two orders, with detached
+shafts in the jambs. Another original relic, unrestored, is
+part of the window nearest the fireplace, which is valuable
+as evidence of the date of the erection of the hall. The
+tracery is geometrical, and the shafts in the angles of the
+splays are banded. About the year 1350 Bishop Hatfield
+enlarged and altered Bek's hall. At the west end he inserted
+two light windows, which are now blocked, though the tracery
+may be seen from students' rooms inside, and partly from the
+outside. The open oak roof, with the exception of some
+necessary later repairs, is of Bishop Hatfield's time. Hatfield
+repaired and altered Pudsey's upper hall by the addition of
+east and west windows, and probably a new roof. He also
+rebuilt the <b>Keep</b>, which time and war had greatly injured.
+The existing keep, which was erected in 1840, is similar to
+Hatfield's, and in many places stands upon the old foundations.
+It is now used entirely as apartments for students of
+University College.</p>
+
+<p>Bishop Fox (1494-1501) is responsible for the next important
+changes. He curtailed the great hall by a partition wall
+near its south end, which still exists. The wall bears his
+badge in two places&mdash;a pelican feeding her young with blood
+from her breast. He also adapted part of Pudsey's buildings,
+near the south-west corner of the castle, to the purposes of a
+kitchen, erected three fireplaces, and windows, and the oak
+buttery hatch which opens from the kitchen, and which again
+has carved upon it &quot;the pelican in her piety.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><a name='Page_106' id='Page_106'></a><span class="pagenum">106</span>
+Bishop Tunstall (1530-1558) built <b>Tunstall's Gallery</b>,
+which extends from the great hall to the clock tower. It is
+entered by Cosin's staircase (erected later) and by an eastern
+stair built by Tunstall himself. A curious feature of this stairway
+is a port-hole which commands the main entrance to the
+courtyard. The present beautiful little chapel is also the work
+of Bishop Tunstall. It contains some notable carved oak stalls,
+of earlier date than the chapel itself, which were brought from
+the castle at Bishop Auckland. The carved devices of the
+miserere seats of these stalls are curious and worthy of attention.
+The doors in the gateway of the courtyard are the work
+of Tunstall's time.</p>
+
+<p>Bishop Cosin (1660-1672) found the castle in a dilapidated
+condition. During the Commonwealth it had been sold to the
+then Lord Mayor of London, who used it badly, to say nothing
+of the ruin caused by the Scots. He spent large sums in its
+restoration. He added the present porch or entrance from the
+courtyard to the great hall. The great staircase in the north-west
+corner of the courtyard is his and bears his arms. Within
+and leading to Tunstall's Gallery is the Black Staircase, also
+the work of Cosin. He enlarged the chapel, and constructed
+and fitted several apartments in the castle, besides several
+minor works. In his will, he says, he spent the greater part of
+his temporal estate in &quot;rebuilding and repaireing the two
+episcopall Castles of Durham and Bishop Auckland.&quot; This,
+he states, cost him seventeen thousand pounds, including the
+furnishing and ornamenting of the chapels, which he did &quot;for
+the use of my successors in those Chappells for ever.&quot; Many
+of the agreements between Bishop Cosin and his masons,
+plasterers, carpenters, and painters, from which the exact
+dates and prices paid for the work may be learned, are
+preserved.</p>
+
+<p>The latest important work at the castle was the rebuilding
+of the keep, in 1840, which was described at that time as &quot;a
+picturesque ruin.&quot; It was entirely rebuilt on its original plan.
+The gateway to the courtyard was repaired and modernised by
+Bishop Barrington, with the existing inartistic result.</p>
+
+<p>Durham Castle owes its picturesque appearance to two
+causes&mdash;first, its magnificent and commanding position, on a
+rocky escarpment; and second, no doubt, to the many vicissitudes
+through which it has passed, the alterations and additions
+<a name='Page_107' id='Page_107'></a><span class="pagenum">107</span>
+made necessary by time and constant war, and later, the
+entirely different uses to which the building is put.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 370px;">
+<a name="image37" id="image37"></a>
+<a href="images/image40.jpg">
+<img src="images/image40_th.jpg" alt="Staircase in the Castle." title="Staircase in the Castle." /></a>
+<span class="caption">Staircase in the Castle.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It is now chiefly used as a hall of residence for university men
+and as lodging for the Judges of Assize.</p>
+
+<p><a name='Page_108' id='Page_108'></a><span class="pagenum">108</span>
+The most favourable time for the architectural student to visit
+the castle is during one of the university vacations, otherwise
+many interesting features would be denied him. Many portions
+(except students' chambers) are, however, open to the public
+every week day.</p>
+
+<p><b>The University of Durham.</b>&mdash;From an early date,
+frequent mention is made in the history of the see of
+Durham, of a college at Oxford called the Durham College.
+Its origin is not exactly known, but by the liberality of
+several bishops and priors its original endowment increased,
+until provision was made for eight fellows and eight scholars.
+This was the case at the time of the suppression of the
+monasteries by King Henry VIII., when, owing to its
+connection with the monastery of Durham, the college was
+also dissolved. Its revenues, were, however, rescued, and
+in 1541 were handed over by the king to the newly
+created dean and chapter. Thus the matter stood till 1650,
+when a petition was presented to the Protector, showing the
+great disadvantages to the North of England arising from the
+long distance of Oxford and Cambridge, and praying that
+the houses of the dean and prebendaries might be converted
+into a college. Cromwell took a favourable view of the idea,
+and in a letter to Lenthall, the Speaker, in its support, he
+says:&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p>Truly it seems to me a matter of great concernment
+and importance, as that which (by the blessing of God)
+may much conduce to the promotion of learning and piety
+in these poore, rude, and ignorant parts, there being also
+many concurring advantages to this place, as pleasantness,
+and aptness of situation, healthfull aire, and plenty of provisions,
+which seeme to favour and pleade for theire desires
+therein.<a name="FNanchor_G_7" id="FNanchor_G_7"></a><a href='#Footnote_G_7' class="fnanchor">7</a></p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p>Various delays occurred, however, and it was not until 1657
+that the Lord Protector issued his patent for the erection of
+the proposed college, in a document consisting of twenty-three
+heads.</p>
+
+<p>The college thus commenced made great progress, and
+would no doubt have continued to do so, but for the constant
+opposition of the two great universities of Oxford and
+Cambridge. Then followed the Restoration, and with [it]
+
+<a name='Page_109' id='Page_109'></a><span class="pagenum">109</span>
+came a reaction against all measures established during the
+Protectorate. This feeling, combined with persistent petitions
+from the universities, soon accomplished the downfall of
+the College.</p>
+
+<p>Bishop Van Mildert, who was translated to Durham in
+1826, during his short episcopate saw many changes, not
+the least of which was the successful revival of the scheme
+for a university. Powers were obtained in 1832 for the training
+of students in divinity and the conferring of degrees in
+other faculties. The new foundation was endowed out of
+the revenues of the cathedral, and the bishop gave up the
+Castle of Durham for the use of the college, besides financial
+assistance of &pound;1000 for the first year and &pound;2000 for the
+following years until his death in 1836. The first warden
+was Dr Charles Thorp, Archdeacon and Canon of Durham,
+but it was provided by an order, on the recommendation of
+the Ecclesiastical Commissioners that in future the office of
+warden should be permanently attached to the deanery, and
+that a canonry in the cathedral be annexed to each of the
+professorships of Divinity and Greek.</p>
+
+<p>The government of the university is in the hands of the
+dean and chapter, and the affairs administered by a warden,
+senate and convocation. A royal charter was obtained in
+1837 making the university a corporate body with perpetual
+succession and a common seal.</p>
+
+<p>The university, besides its original schools of arts and
+divinity, has established schools of physical science and
+medicine, in connection with the Durham College of Science
+at Newcastle-on-Tyne, and has recently admitted women
+students to its courses and lectures.</p>
+
+<p>There are many foundation scholarships and exhibitions in
+arts, classics, mathematics, and theology, besides a long list
+of private foundations and fellowships.</p>
+
+<p>The university consists of one college and one hall. The
+former, University College, occupies the Castle, and the latter,
+Bishop Hatfield's Hall.</p>
+
+<p>It is well supplied with libraries. The university library
+founded at the opening, to which Bishop Van Mildert
+contributed a valuable collection.</p>
+
+<p>The library given in 1855 by the late Dr Martin Routh,
+president of Magdalen College, Oxford.</p>
+
+<p><a name='Page_110' id='Page_110'></a><span class="pagenum">110</span>
+The library presented by the late Bishop Maltby in 1856,
+which he endowed with &pound;1000.</p>
+
+<p>A library was also bequeathed to the university in 1859
+by the late T.M. Winterbottom, M.D., of Westoe, South
+Shields. A large collection of books was bequeathed by the
+late Bishop Lightfoot.</p>
+
+<p>Two other important libraries may here be mentioned,
+though they do not belong to the University&mdash;viz. the
+Chapter Library and Bishop Cosin's Library.</p>
+<hr />
+
+<p><a name='Page_111' id='Page_111'></a><span class="pagenum">111</span></p>
+<h2>
+<a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>
+CHAPTER VI<br />
+<span class="subtitle">The City</span></h2>
+
+<p>Besides the Cathedral and Castle, the City of Durham possesses
+several churches of decided interest to the student of architecture,
+which deserve a brief notice.</p>
+
+<p>The Parish Church of <b>S. Mary in the North Bailey</b>.&mdash;This
+small church is generally known as S. Mary le Bow,
+owing to the fact that in its original steeple was an arch,
+through which the roadway passed. This steeple fell in 1637,
+and the ancient structure was allowed to lapse into complete
+ruin. The present church was built in 1685, and its most
+noticeable feature is the open carved screen between the nave
+and chancel erected in 1707. The site of the church is the
+oldest in the city, and some writers have thought it probably
+identical with that of the White Church in which the body of
+S. Cuthbert was placed during the building of the cathedral.</p>
+
+<p><b>S. Mary-the-Less</b> is a small but picturesque church
+situated in the South Bailey, and is of Norman date. Its
+original architectural character is, however, almost entirely
+lost, owing to extensive restorations which took place in
+1846-7. The round-headed window now in the south wall
+of the chancel, but formerly in the west wall of the nave, is
+the only remaining original feature. The church is entered
+by a porch on the south side, and consists of a nave and
+chancel only. Some stones in the churchyard, which were
+removed from their position when the church was restored,
+are carved with chevron ornament, and would seem to show
+that the date of the original structure was the earlier part of
+the twelfth century.</p>
+
+<p><b>S. Oswald.</b>&mdash;This church stands on high ground overlooking
+the river Wear, at the head of New Elvet; and is the
+parish church of the ancient borough of Elvet. The first
+church was erected by Bishop Carileph, though the earliest
+<a name='Page_112' id='Page_112'></a><span class="pagenum">112</span>
+parts of the existing building are of the time of Bishop Pudsey,
+who also built the bridge across the river, known as the Elvet
+Bridge. To this date (about 1190) belongs the eastern part
+of the nave arcade, the arches of which are semi-circular and
+rest upon tall round piers. Early in the fourteenth century a
+new chancel was built, the aisles rebuilt and extended to the
+west end, and two new arches added to the west end of the
+nave arcades. In the early part of the fifteenth century a
+clerestory and open parapet were added, and a new oak roof
+placed over the nave. This was most probably a hammer-beam
+roof, and was coloured and gilded and decorated with
+angels holding shields. The only parts remaining at the
+present day are the grotesque carved corbels, and the angels.
+The tower was also constructed at this time. In 1834, owing
+to subsidence of the ground, it became necessary to rebuild
+the south aisle and a large part of the chancel, which caused
+the destruction of much architectural beauty. The open
+parapet was removed, the clerestory windows replaced by the
+present inferior ones, and the fine oak roof destroyed. The
+east end of the chancel was rebuilt in 1864. Special attention
+should be directed to the fine oak stall-work in the chancel,
+boldly carved in the style of the early part of the fifteenth
+century. The tower, which forms a beautiful and conspicuous
+landmark, is reached by a stone staircase of unusual character.
+It is placed in the thickness of the wall, and is covered in
+with twenty-four gravestones of thirteenth and fourteenth
+century date, on which may yet be seen portions of inscriptions
+and symbols. Built into the tower was part of a Saxon
+cross, which has now been removed for preservation to the
+dean and chapter library. This cross is interesting as evidence
+of the existence on the same site of a pre-Norman church.
+The tower was carefully restored in 1863. It contains a
+peal of six bells, which were re-cast in 1694, and bear the
+following inscriptions:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="hang">
+<p>1. GLOVIA(?) IN ALTISSMISS(?) DEO PEX FORSTER A
+VIC CHRISTO HODSON ME FECIT 1694.</p>
+
+<p>3. DEVM TIMETE PEX FORSTER AM VIC I EVANS C
+WARDEN CHRISTO HODSON ME FECIT.</p>
+
+<p>4. REGEM HONORATE PEX FORSTER A M VIC 1694
+CHRISTOPR HODSON MADE ME I EVANS I S
+H R.</p>
+
+<p>5. IBIMUS IN DOMVM DOMINI PEX FORSTER A M VIC
+CHRISTOPER HODSON MADE ME 1694 IO EVANS
+CHV W.</p>
+
+<p>6. OSVALDUS FLOREM MEREOR QVIA GESTO TENOREM
+PEX FORSTER AM VIC IO EVANS IS WH RW
+CW 94.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name='Page_113' id='Page_113'></a><span class="pagenum">113</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<a name="image38" id="image38"></a>
+<a href="images/image41.jpg">
+<img src="images/image41_th.jpg"
+  alt="The Cathedral and Castle, from the North."
+  title="The Cathedral and Castle, from the North." />
+</a><br /><span class="caption">The Cathedral and Castle, from the North.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name='Page_115' id='Page_115'></a><span class="pagenum">115</span>
+The second bell was cast in 1885.</p>
+
+
+<p><b>S. Margaret's</b> Parish Church is situated on the steep hill
+called Crossgate. It is opposite to and across the river from
+the Castle, and from its churchyard a fine western view of the
+cathedral is obtained. The church was built during the early
+part of the episcopate of Bishop Pudsey (1154) and was
+formerly a chapel under the church of S. Oswald. Here
+again alterations and restorations have obliterated much that
+originally existed. The church at present consists of a
+nave and aisles, a chancel with aisles, a western tower, and
+north and south porches. The existing portions of the
+original church are the chancel arch, and the south arcade of
+four bays, together with part of the clerestory and the north
+wall of the chancel. The arcade consists of low massive
+circular piers, with cushion capitals and plain chamfered
+abaci, which support semi-circular arches of one order also
+chamfered.</p>
+
+<p>The north arcade is also Norman, and very similar in
+character to that of S. Oswald. No doubt it is of the
+same date, and probably built by the same architect. The
+chancel arch has two orders, recessed square and chamfered,
+with a plain chamfered hood mould. On both north and
+south sides of the arch is a squint. With the exception
+of two which are Norman, the windows are nearly all of
+modern date. One is in the north wall of the chancel
+and is widely splayed. It is not seen on the outside owing
+to the vestry which now covers it. The other, a very interesting
+specimen, is situated over the western bay of the south
+arcade, and is a portion of the original clerestory and the
+earliest known clerestory window in the county. The roof
+of the nave is of oak, and a good specimen of Perpendicular
+work. The tower is of fifteenth-century date, and exceedingly
+plain externally, but vaulted in the interior. It opens
+on to the church by an arch which has been inserted in the
+west wall. There is an interesting font of Frosterley marble,
+
+<a name='Page_116' id='Page_116'></a><span class="pagenum">116</span>
+which is apparently of the same date as the chancel. The
+vestry which is raised above the level of the church floor is
+of the fifteenth century, and has on its gable the original
+gable cross.</p>
+
+<p>The Parish Church of <b>S. Giles</b> occupies a very elevated
+position at the north-east end of the city, and commands one
+of the finest views of the cathedral, castle, and city, which
+it is possible to obtain. It was built by Bishop Flambard
+and finished as early as 1112; but the north wall of the
+nave, containing two small Norman windows, widely splayed inwards,
+and a walled-up doorway is all that remains of this early
+church. The chancel is of later Norman of the time of Pudsey.
+Both within and without a bold chamfered string course
+runs round the chancel. On the south side is a semi-circular
+headed window, with a carved dripstone and nook shafts, the
+capitals of which bear a similar character to those in the
+Galilee Chapel of the cathedral. In the north wall of the
+chancel is the priests' door, now walled up, and the corbels
+and springers of the original chancel arch built by Pudsey.
+The present arch was erected in 1876. In 1414 considerable
+alterations were made during the episcopate of Bishop Langley,
+when the walls of the nave were raised, the upper stage of the
+tower built, and the west window inserted. The font is a
+fine stone bowl resting on a shaft, and is undoubtedly of the
+time of Flambard. The chancel contains some monuments of
+the Tempest and Heath families, who were the ancestors of
+the Marchioness of Londonderry, patroness of the church and
+parish of S. Giles. The tower contains three bells, the first
+and second of which are pre-Reformation and the third bears
+the date 1646.</p>
+
+<p>On the north side of Gilesgate near to the North-Eastern
+goods station, are the ruins of the little <b>Chapel of S. Mary
+Magdalen</b>, of which only a small portion remains. At the
+west end of the north and south walls are two doorways, the
+latter walled up. Portions of the east window are still in
+position, but it would appear to have been of earlier date than
+the surrounding walls, and probably had been brought from
+some other building. In the interior are the remains of a
+Frosterley marble font, and a gable cross of thirteenth-century
+date is in the custody of the dean and chapter. The
+chapel was 43 feet by 16-1/2 feet wide. It is supposed to
+<a name='Page_117' id='Page_117'></a><span class="pagenum">117</span>
+have been founded by Sir John Fitz Alexander. In 1370
+it was almost entirely rebuilt, and again in 1449, on a site
+near the original one. The reason for this was the moisture
+of the ground, which caused the foundations to become
+insecure. The government was in the hands of the almoner
+of the cathedral, who distributed doles to the poor. The
+chapel was used as a place of worship until nearly the end
+of the seventeenth century, when, owing to its ruinous
+condition, services were finally discontinued.</p>
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a href="#CONTENTS">Table of<br />Contents</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table width="66%" summary="center dimensions">
+  <tr><th align="center" colspan="3">PRINCIPAL DIMENSIONS OF THE CATHEDRAL</th></tr>
+  <tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="right">Feet</td><td align="right">Inches</td></tr>
+  <tr><td align="left">Length of Nave</td><td align="right">201</td><td align="right">0</td></tr>
+  <tr><td align="left">Width of Nave</td><td align="right">39</td><td align="right">0</td></tr>
+  <tr><td align="left">Width of Nave Aisles</td><td align="right">21</td><td align="right">0</td></tr>
+  <tr><td align="left">Length of North Transept</td><td align="right">66</td><td align="right">0</td></tr>
+  <tr><td align="left">Length of South Transept</td><td align="right">66</td><td align="right">0</td></tr>
+  <tr><td align="left">Width of Transepts</td><td align="right">37</td><td align="right">0</td></tr>
+  <tr><td align="left">Length of Choir</td><td align="right">132</td><td align="right">6</td></tr>
+  <tr><td align="left">Width of Choir</td><td align="right">39</td><td align="right">6</td></tr>
+  <tr><td align="left">Width of Choir Aisles</td><td align="right">19</td><td align="right">0</td></tr>
+  <tr><td align="left">Length of Nine Altars Chapel</td><td align="right">131</td><td align="right">0</td></tr>
+  <tr><td align="left">Width of Nine Altars Chapel</td><td align="right">38</td><td align="right">6</td></tr>
+  <tr><td align="left">Height of Vaulting of Nine Altars Chapel</td><td align="right">77</td><td align="right">0</td></tr>
+  <tr><td align="left">Height of Vaulting of Choir</td><td align="right">74</td><td align="right">6</td></tr>
+  <tr><td align="left">Height of Vaulting of Nave</td><td align="right">72</td><td align="right">0</td></tr>
+  <tr><td align="left">Height of Vaulting of Lantern</td><td align="right">155</td><td align="right">0</td></tr>
+  <tr><td align="left">Width of Lantern E. to W.</td><td align="right">40</td><td align="right">6</td></tr>
+  <tr><td align="left">Width of Lantern N. to S.</td><td align="right">39</td><td align="right">0</td></tr>
+  <tr><td align="left">Height of Tower Arches</td><td align="right">68</td><td align="right">6</td></tr>
+  <tr><td align="left">Length of Galilee Chapel</td><td align="right">77</td><td align="right">0</td></tr>
+  <tr><td align="left">Width of Galilee</td><td align="right">49</td><td align="right">0</td></tr>
+  <tr><td align="left">Height of Western Towers</td><td align="right">144</td><td align="right">6</td></tr>
+  <tr><td align="left">Height of Central Tower</td><td align="right">218</td><td align="right">0</td></tr>
+  <tr><td align="left">Total length of Church (interior)</td><td align="right">469</td><td align="right">6</td></tr>
+  <tr><td align="left">Thickness of Wall at West End</td><td align="right">8</td><td align="right">0</td></tr>
+  <tr><td align="left">AREA:</td><td align="right">44,400 sq. ft.</td></tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<a name="image39" id="image39"></a>
+<a href="images/image42.png">
+<img src="images/image42_th.png" alt="PLAN AND DIMENSIONS." title="PLAN AND DIMENSIONS." />
+</a>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h2><a name="FOOTNOTES" title="FOOTNOTES"></a>
+FOOTNOTES</h2>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p>
+<span class="label"><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a>
+<a href='#FNanchor_A_1'>1</a></span>
+Sanderson, in his edition of &quot;Rites of Durham,&quot; 1767, says: &quot;He
+is said to be descended from the Blood Royal of the Kings of Ireland,
+being son of one Muriardach and Sabina his wife, a King's daughter. He
+was educated in the Abbey of Mailrose.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><span class="label"><a name="Footnote_B_2" id="Footnote_B_2"></a>
+<a href='#FNanchor_B_2'>2</a></span>
+&quot;County of Durham,&quot; by J.K. Boyle, F.S.A.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="label"><a name="Footnote_C_3" id="Footnote_C_3"></a>
+<a href='#FNanchor_C_3'>3</a></span>
+Raine. S. Cuthbert</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="label"><a name="Footnote_D_4" id="Footnote_D_4"></a>
+<a href='#FNanchor_D_4'>4</a></span>
+Photographs, coloured by the late J.I. Williamson, are
+exhibited in the South Kensington Museum.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="label"><a name="Footnote_E_5" id="Footnote_E_5"></a>
+<a href='#FNanchor_E_5'>5</a></span>
+Geoffrey de Coldingham.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="label"><a name="Footnote_F_6" id="Footnote_F_6"></a>
+<a href='#FNanchor_F_6'>6</a></span>
+&quot;Rites of Durham.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="label"><a name="Footnote_G_7" id="Footnote_G_7"></a>
+<a href='#FNanchor_G_7'>7</a></span>
+Hutchinson, vol. i</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+
+
+<h4>TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES</h4>
+<ol><li>Full page photographs in the original text were sometimes placed so as to split paragraphs. These have
+been moved to immediately before or after the paragraph that was split. When this was done, page numbers have
+been moved from their original location to preserve sequential numbering and to show on which page the
+photograph was placed. </li>
+<li>Some page numbers are missing, as there were often blank pages before or after full page photographs.</li>
+</ol>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral
+Church of Durham, by J. E. Bygate
+
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral Church of
+Durham, by J. E. Bygate
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral Church of Durham
+       A Description of Its Fabric and A Brief History of the Episcopal See
+
+Author: J. E. Bygate
+
+Release Date: December 26, 2006 [EBook #20191]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF DURHAM ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Jonathan Ingram, David Cortesi and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Durham Cathedral, from the South-West.]
+
+
+
+
+             THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF
+                     DURHAM
+
+            A DESCRIPTION OF ITS FABRIC
+            AND A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE
+                  EPISCOPAL SEE
+
+                      BY
+             J.E. BYGATE, A.R.C.A.
+
+        [Illustration: Arms of the See.]
+
+         WITH FORTY-FOUR ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+        LONDON GEORGE BELL & SONS 1905
+
+
+    _First Published         ... March 1899_
+    _Second Edition, Revised ... September 1900_
+    _Reprinted               ... 1905_
+
+    _The Riverside Press Limited, Edinburgh_
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+GENERAL PREFACE
+
+
+This series of monographs has been planned to supply visitors to the
+great English Cathedrals with accurate and well illustrated guide-books
+at a popular price. The aim of each writer has been to produce a work
+compiled with sufficient knowledge and scholarship to be of value to the
+student of Archaeology and History, and yet not too technical in
+language for the use of an ordinary visitor or tourist.
+
+To specify all the authorities which have been made use of in each case
+would be difficult and tedious in this place. But amongst the general
+sources of information which have been almost invariably found useful
+are:--(1) the great county histories, the value of which, especially in
+questions of genealogy and local records, is generally recognised; (2)
+the numerous papers by experts which appear from time to time in the
+Transactions of the Antiquarian and Archaeological Societies; (3) the
+important documents made accessible in the series issued by the Master
+of the Rolls; (4) the well-known works of Britton and Willis on the
+English Cathedrals; and (5) the very excellent series of Handbooks to
+the Cathedrals originated by the late Mr John Murray; to which the
+reader may in most cases be referred for fuller detail, especially in
+reference to the histories of the respective sees.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+AUTHOR'S PREFACE
+
+
+As much as possible of this brief description of Durham is from the
+personal acquaintance of the writer with the building. Yet many
+authorities have, of necessity, been consulted in its preparation,
+notably a pamphlet by the Rev. Canon W. Greenwell, and the "County of
+Durham," by J.R. Boyle, F.S.A. Thanks are also due to the authorities of
+the Cathedral for having freely given permission to make drawings and
+measurements, and to the late Mr Weatherall, chief verger, for his
+kindly assistance and information.
+
+The illustrations are chiefly from sketches and drawings by the writer,
+and from photographs reproduced by the kindness of the Photochrom
+Company, Ltd., and Messrs S.B. Bolas & Co.
+
+                                                            J.E.B.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+CHAPTER I.--The Building of the Church                          3
+
+CHAPTER II.--Description of the Exterior                       21
+    The Towers                                                 21
+    The East Front                                             22
+    The West Front                                             25
+    The North Door                                             25
+    The South Door                                             26
+    The West Door                                              28
+    The Cloister                                               29
+    The Chapter-House                                          32
+    The Dun Cow                                                35
+
+CHAPTER III.--Description of the Interior                      39
+    The Nave                                                   39
+    The Choir                                                  40
+    The Neville Screen                                         43
+    The Transepts                                              50
+    The Tower                                                  53
+    The East End                                               54
+    The Chapel of the Nine Altars                              61
+    The Tomb of S. Cuthbert                                    69
+    The Galilee or Lady Chapel                                 72
+    Monuments in the Nave and Transepts                        79
+    The Font                                                   81
+
+CHAPTER IV.--History of the See                                82
+
+CHAPTER V.--The Castle and University                         102
+
+CHAPTER VI.--The City                                         111
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+Durham Cathedral, from the South-West               _Frontispiece_
+Arms of the See                                       _Title Page_
+The Exterior, from the College                                  2
+The Dun Cow                                                     9
+The West End (from an Old Print)                               17
+The Exterior, from Palace Green                                20
+The Central Tower                                              23
+Detail of Ironwork                                             26
+The Sanctuary Knocker                                          26
+Ironwork on Doors of Cloisters                                 27
+Ornament on South Doorway                                      28
+The Cloister                                                   29
+S. Cuthbert's Chest.                                           32
+The Chapter-House                                              33
+The Exterior, from the South-East                              35
+The Nave, looking West                                         38
+One Bay of the Nave (Measured Drawing)                         41
+Triforium and Clerestory                                       45
+The Choir, looking West                                        47
+The Transepts, looking North                                   51
+Corbels in Choir                                           54, 58
+The Choir, looking East                                        55
+Triforium of Nave and Choir                                    59
+Plan of Norman East End                                        61
+Sections of Hood and Arch Mouldings                            61
+Capitals in the Nine Altars Chapel                             62
+The Nine Altars Chapel                                         63
+Capital in Galilee Chapel                                      66
+The Galilee Chapel                                         67, 72
+Paintings in the Galilee Chapel                                73
+Detail of the Galilee Chapel                                   75
+The Font and Cover                                             80
+The Crypt                                                      85
+Stone Coffin Lid                                               88
+The Chapter Library                                            99
+The Chapel or Crypt, Durham Castle                            103
+Staircase in the Castle                                       107
+The Cathedral and Castle, from the North                      113
+
+PLAN AND DIMENSIONS                                           118
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: The Exterior, from the College.]
+
+
+
+
+DURHAM CATHEDRAL
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+THE BUILDING OF THE CHURCH
+
+
+The traveller northward by the East Coast Route cannot fail to be struck
+by the beauty of the city of Durham, with its red-roofed houses nestling
+beneath the majestic site of the cathedral and castle. For splendid
+position the Cathedral of Durham stands unequalled in this country; on
+the Continent, perhaps that of Albi can alone be compared with it in
+this respect. The cathedral and Norman Castle are upon the summit of a
+lofty tongue of land which is almost surrounded by the River Wear. In
+parts the banks are rocky and steep, in others thickly wooded. The river
+itself is spanned here and there by fine and historic bridges.
+
+The early history of Durham is obscure. There are many vague legends in
+existence, a natural consequence, perhaps, when we remember the various
+and often speedy changes of ownership to which that part of the country
+was for centuries subjected.
+
+To lead up clearly to the founding of the Cathedral of Durham, it will
+be necessary to describe briefly the earliest introduction of
+Christianity into the north of England. That Christianity was known in
+this country during the time of the Romans there is sufficient evidence
+to prove. There is, however, little to show that it existed in the north
+to any appreciable extent. All or nearly all the carved stones, altars,
+etc., disinterred in that part of the country have been of undoubted
+Pagan origin.
+
+The ancient kingdom of Northumbria comprised the present counties of
+Durham, Northumberland, and Yorkshire, and a part of the south-east of
+Scotland as far north as the Firth of Forth. This kingdom was
+sub-divided into two portions. The Southern, or Deira, extended from the
+Tees to the Humber, and the Northern, or Bernicia, reached from the Tees
+to the Firth of Forth. The province of Bernicia was settled about A.D.
+547 by Ida, a chief of the Angles, who made his headquarters on a steep
+rock on the sea-coast about sixteen miles south of Berwick. He was
+succeeded by his son Ethelric, who built himself a stronghold, which he
+named after his wife Bebbanburgh, a name still retained in a shortened
+form--Bamburgh. Ethelric was followed by Ella, whose son Edwin was
+driven into exile by his fierce brother-in-law, Ethelfrith, and took
+possession of Deira, the southern province of Northumbria. After
+attaining his majority, Edwin, assisted by Redwald, regained his
+kingdom, and eventually ruled over the whole of Northumbria; it is
+during his reign that we find the first authentic history of
+Christianity in the north. Edwin married Ethelburga, a daughter of
+Ethelbert, king of Kent, who had been converted to Christianity by the
+preaching of S. Augustine. He himself received baptism at the hands of
+Paulinus (625-633), the great Roman missionary, who was sent north with
+the Princess Ethelburga. Paulinus fixed his headquarters at York, where
+he built his church, the forerunner of the present cathedral. This
+attempt of the Romans to christianise Northumbria was, however, of short
+duration. Cadwalla and Penda rose against them, and Edwin fell in battle
+at Hatfield Moor in Yorkshire. Paulinus, despairing of the cause,
+returned to Kent with the queen-widow Ethelburga and her children; and
+under Cadwalla and Penda, the kingdom soon relapsed into Paganism.
+
+We must now direct our attention to a small, barren island on the west
+coast of Scotland, Iona. Here came a voluntary exile (A.D. 563),
+Columba, a monk, said to have been a descendant of the Irish kings. Here
+he lived and founded a great missionary monastery, which afterwards
+became the centre of Christian influence in Scotland and the north of
+England. He and his followers were active workers; they wrote Gospels
+and devotional books, preached, and built churches of wood. Columba died
+(A.D. 597), but his work was continued.
+
+In 634, Oswald, a son of Ethelfrith, became king of Northumbria. In his
+youth he, with his brothers, had been obliged to flee to Scotland,
+where, during his exile, Oswald was converted to Christianity by the
+teachers of Iona. On his return he defeated and killed Cadwalla at
+Hevenfeld, or Heavenfield, near Hexham, in 634, and became the means of
+finally introducing Christianity into his kingdom. Soon after he became
+king, Oswald sent to Iona for help, and in reply came a monk, who, for
+some reason, said by old writers to be his harshness, failed in his
+mission. He was replaced by another monk named Aidan (635-651), who was
+eminently successful. Beda speaks of him as "a man of great piety and
+zeal, combined with tender charity and gentleness." Aidan became
+intimately associated with King Oswald, the two working together, and he
+chose for his headquarters the small sandy island of Lindisfarne, off
+the Northumbrian coast, which we now know as "Holy Island."
+
+Lindisfarne thus resembled Iona, and it is probable that the similarity
+of position and surroundings influenced Aidan in his choice. However
+that may be, Aidan there founded his monastery and directed the work of
+his monks.
+
+Passing over a short period, we find at Lindisfarne a monk who is so
+intimately connected with this cathedral that he demands special
+attention--the great S. Cuthbert, sixth bishop of Lindisfarne, and the
+patron saint of Durham. Little is known of his birth and parentage. Some
+writers give him a Scotch origin, others Irish,[1] and others again say
+he was born of humble parents on the banks of the Tweed. The latter is
+most probable. Certain it is that at an early age he was left an orphan,
+and was employed as an under-shepherd near to Melrose. From his earliest
+youth he was thoughtful and pious, and watched and imitated in his mode
+of life the monks of Melrose. There are numerous legends and stories of
+S. Cuthbert's youth. He is said to have wrought many miracles, even to
+the extent of stilling a tempest. One of these may be told here on
+account of the share it played in his choice of monastic life:--On a
+certain night in A.D. 651, while tending his sheep, his companions being
+asleep, Cuthbert saw in the heavens a brilliant shaft of light, and
+angels descending. These very shortly re-ascended, bearing among them "a
+spirit of surpassing brightness." In the morning it was found that the
+good S. Aidan was dead. The vision had a marked and lasting effect on
+Cuthbert, and eventually resulted in his entering the monastery at
+Melrose. For ten years Cuthbert led a holy and studious life at Melrose,
+under Prior Boisil, when he was chosen among others to proceed to the
+newly-founded monastery at Ripon. His sojourn there was, however, short,
+as owing to doctrinal differences concerning the celebration of Easter,
+he and the other Scottish monks returned to Melrose. Some four years
+later, on the death of Boisil, Cuthbert was elected his successor, as
+prior of Melrose. In A.D. 664, we find him holding the same office at
+Lindisfarne, where he remained for twelve years. He then retired from
+his position, in order to attain a higher degree of Christian perfection
+by living a solitary life, first on a small island near Lindisfarne, and
+afterwards on the island of Farne, near Bamburgh. There are many stories
+told of his great piety at this time, so that even the wild sea-birds
+are said to have obeyed him.
+
+   [1] Sanderson, in his edition of "Rites of Durham," 1767, says:
+       "He is said to be descended from the Blood Royal of the Kings
+       of Ireland, being son of one Muriardach and Sabina his wife,
+       a King's daughter. He was educated in the Abbey of Mailrose."
+
+In the year A.D. 685 Cuthbert was, though against his own wishes,
+consecrated Bishop of Lindisfarne. His great activity and usefulness in
+this office was soon cut short, for in less than two years, on the 20th
+of March A.D. 687, he died. Obediently to his own request, his body was
+wrapped in a linen cloth, which had been given him by the Abbess Yerca;
+and, placed in a stone coffin, the gift of the Abbot Cudda, was interred
+in the church at Lindisfarne. He was not to rest, however. In A.D. 698
+the monks disinterred his remains in order to place them in a
+specially-prepared wooden coffin. It is said they found the saint's body
+perfectly incorrupt. To quote the quaint Hegge:
+
+    But whiles they opened his coffin, they start at a wonder, they
+    look't for bones and found flesh, they expected a skeleton, and saw
+    an entire bodie, with joynts flexible, his flesh so succulent, that
+    there only wanted heate to make his bodie live without a soul, and
+    his face so dissembling death, that elsewhere it is true that sleep
+    is the image of death, but here death was the image of sleep. Nay,
+    his very funerall weeds were so fresh, as if putrefaction had not
+    dared to take him by the coat.[2]
+
+  [2] "County of Durham," by J.K. Boyle, F.S.A.
+
+Whatever may be the truth of this, his body was placed in a wooden
+coffin, portions of which are still preserved in the chapter library at
+Durham.
+
+Over a century and a half after these events the coast of Northumbria
+was disturbed and troubled by the piratical invasions of the Danes. The
+number and violence of these incursions so increased that the whole
+country lay practically at their mercy. Becoming alarmed for their own
+safety and that of their holy relics, the monks of Lindisfarne fled,
+taking with them the body of their saint, and all their sacred vessels
+and books. This occurred in A.D. 875.
+
+Here commenced that long wandering which eventually ended in the
+founding of the Cathedral Church of Durham, where the bones of S.
+Cuthbert found their final resting-place.
+
+Bishop Eardulph and his monks, with their sacred charge, travelled for
+seven years, over a great portion of the north of England and part of
+the south of Scotland. Many churches dedicated to S. Cuthbert in the
+north are thought to mark their resting-places. From a list of these
+given by Prior Wessington the probable route of the wanderers can be
+approximately, made out as follows:--First to Elsdon and down the Rede
+to Haydon Bridge. Up the South Tyne to Beltinghame, and then following
+the route of the Roman Wall to Bewcastle. Turning south to Salkeld, and
+thence by Eden Hall and Plumbland into Lancashire, towards the river
+Derwent. Here they came to a determination to cross to Ireland, and took
+ship from the mouth of the Derwent. Very soon a violent storm arose, the
+vessel became unmanageable and was nearly filled with water, which,
+according to Symeon, immediately turned into blood. A return was
+inevitable. It was during this attempt that the famous copy of the
+Gospels, known as the Durham Book, was washed overboard into the sea.
+This book is, perhaps, the most beautiful example of Anglo-Saxon writing
+and illumination extant, and is surpassed only by the celebrated Irish
+MS., the Book of Kells. It was shortly afterwards found on the coast in
+a comparatively uninjured condition; and is now preserved in the British
+Museum. The wandering monks next turned northwards as far as Witherne,
+on the Galloway coast, and then returned to England, through
+Westmoreland and across Stainmoor into Teesdale, staying for a time at
+a village, which no doubt owes it present name Cotherstone to this
+circumstance. Leaving here and crossing the hills, through Marske,
+Forcett and Barton, they arrived at the abbey of Craike, near
+Easingwold, where they were kindly treated by the abbot, and remained
+about four months. On resuming their journey the monks removed the body
+of S. Cuthbert to Cuncachester, or, as we now know it, Chester-le-Street,
+a former Roman camp. Here the fraternity remained for a hundred and
+thirteen years; and here was the seat of the Bishopric of Bernicia until
+A.D. 995. Many are the legends clustering round these journeyings. How,
+when leaving Lindisfarne, the sea opened a passage for them, and how in
+more than one difficulty the dead saint himself gave them assistance.
+Notably, on one occasion when the bearers were worn out and weary he
+appeared and showed them where they would find a horse and car in which
+to carry their burden. This horse and car were afterwards used on their
+journeys.
+
+In the year 995, again for safety, they removed once more under Bishop
+Aldhun, first for a short time to Ripon, and then finally to Durham. It
+is of this last journey the following story is told:--
+
+    "Coming with him" (_v._ Sanderson), "on the _East_ Side of _Durham_,
+    to a Place call'd _Wardenlawe,_ they could not with all their Force
+    remove his body further, for it seemed fastened to the Ground; which
+    strange and unforeseen Accident produced great Astonishment in the
+    Hearts of the Bishop, the Monks, and their Associates; whereupon
+    they fasted and prayed three Days with great Devotion, to know by
+    Revelation from God, what to do with the holy Body, which was soon
+    granted to them, it being revealed to _Eadmer_, a virtuous Man, that
+    he should be carried to _Dunholme_, where he was to be received to a
+    Place of Rest. They were again in great Distress, in not knowing
+    where _Dunholme_ lay; but as they proceeded, a Woman wanting her
+    Cow, called aloud to her Companion, to know if she had seen her? Who
+    answered, She was in _Dunholme_. This was an happy and heavenly
+    Sound to the distressed Monks, who thereby had Intelligence that
+    their Journey's End was at Hand, and the Saint's Body near its
+    Resting-place; thereupon with great Joy they arrived with his
+    Body at _Dunholme_, in the Year 997."
+
+[Illustration: The Dun Cow.]
+
+Arrived at Dunholm they raised a "little Church of Wands and Branches"
+to protect the sacred relics until a building more worthy of such a
+charge could be erected. This was the beginning of the Cathedral and
+City of Durham.
+
+The condition of the place at this time must have been very wild, and it
+certainly was a natural stronghold. The only open spot seems to have
+been the plateau where the cathedral now stands. The site is curiously
+described in a Saxon poem, from which the following is a translation:--
+
+  The City is celebrated
+  In the whole Empire of the Britons
+  The road to it is steep
+  It is surrounded with rocks
+  And with curious plants
+  The Wear flows round it
+  A river of rapid waves
+  And there live in it
+  Fishes of various kinds
+  Mingling with the floods.
+  And there grow
+  Great Forests,
+  There live in the recesses
+  Wild Animals of many sorts
+  In the deep valleys
+  Deer innumerable.
+
+As soon as possible a stone chapel was built, in which the body of S.
+Cuthbert was placed. Bishop Aldhun, not satisfied with this, determined
+to establish a great church. Work was immediately commenced and
+progressed so rapidly that the building, known as "the White Church,"
+was consecrated in A.D. 999. Of this there would seem to be no authentic
+remains existing; although some authorities think portions of it are
+included in the present cathedral. Bishop Aldhun died in 1018. The next
+date of importance is the year 1081, when William of Saint Carileph was
+appointed Bishop by the Conqueror. He was a monk of the Benedictine
+order, and at once drove out and dispossessed the secular clergy at
+Durham, replacing them from the Benedictine Monasteries which were
+established at Jarrow and Monkwearmouth. Bishop Carileph is the man to
+whom we owe the present Cathedral of Durham. In 1088 he was obliged to
+flee into exile in Normandy, where he remained three years, through his
+having taken part in the rebellion against William II. It was probably
+during this time of banishment that he conceived the idea that if he
+returned to Durham he would build a more worthy church, such as were
+already erected and in course of construction in Normandy.
+
+Soon after his return in 1091 he commenced to carry out his scheme; and
+we learn that on the 11th of August 1093, the foundation stone of the
+new church was laid, with great pomp.
+
+The work proceeded rapidly, commencing at the east end. By the time of
+Bishop Carileph's death, which occurred in 1096, the walls of the choir,
+the eastern walls of the transepts, the tower arches, and a portion of
+the first bay of the nave, were completed. It is also very probable that
+the lower portion of the walls of the whole church are of Carileph's
+time.
+
+After the death of Bishop Carileph the see of Durham remained vacant for
+three years. The monks, however, were not idle during this period, and
+they continued the work vigorously, completing the west walls of the
+transepts and the vaulting of the north transept. In 1099 Ralph Flambard
+was appointed bishop, and he held the office until 1128. He carried on
+the building as the funds at his disposal would allow, sometimes rapidly
+and at others more slowly. Before his death it would appear that he
+completed the nave as high as the wall plates and altogether finished
+and roofed the aisles. The western towers as far as the height of the
+roof of the nave are also the work of Flambard. In 1104 the work was so
+far advanced as to permit the removal of the body of S. Cuthbert, from
+the temporary shrine which Bishop Carileph had erected over it, into the
+new church. This ceremony was performed on August 29th, 1104, and the
+coffin was placed in a shrine behind the high altar.
+
+On Flambard's death in 1128 the see was again left vacant for five
+years, but we are told that the monks continued the work and completed
+the nave. The portion built by them at this time must of necessity have
+been the vaulting and roof, the architectural features of which are
+quite in accordance with the date, being late Norman.
+
+Flambard's successor was Galfrid Rufus, who was Bishop from 1133 to
+1140.
+
+During his episcopate the chapter-house, which had been commenced by
+the monks, was completed. Rufus also replaced the then existing north
+and south doorways of the nave, by those standing to-day.
+
+The next bishop, William de St Barbara (1143 to 1152), does not appear
+to have added anything to the cathedral. During his time of office the
+see was usurped by William Cummin, and building operations were no doubt
+neglected through the troubles arising from the usurpation. His
+successor, Hugh Pudsey (1153 to 1195) was, however, a great builder;
+appointed to the see at a comparatively early age, and, living as he
+did, at a time when very great changes were taking place in
+architectural style, he was able to carry out a great deal of beautiful
+work.
+
+He began to build a Lady Chapel at the east end of the choir, but
+although he had made careful preparations, and engaged skilled
+architects and workmen, great cracks appeared in the walls before the
+work had proceeded far, and the building was stopped. Bishop Pudsey,
+taking this as a divine revelation that the work was not pleasing to
+God, and the patron S. Cuthbert, abandoned it and commenced another
+chapel at the west end of the church, using in its erection the Purbeck
+marble bases and columns which he had had prepared for his eastern
+chapel. This second attempt was successful and remains to us in that
+beautiful and unique specimen of Transitional work, the Galilee Chapel.
+Its date may be taken, says Canon Greenwell, "as about the year 1175."
+Besides this work Pudsey built the hall and solar now called (at the
+top) the "Norman Gallery" of Durham Castle.
+
+Little or nothing further seems to have been done until the translation
+of Bishop Poore from the see of Sarum to Durham in 1229. The name of
+Bishop Poore is inseparably connected with the building of the present
+Salisbury Cathedral, and after his removal to Durham he conceived the
+idea of, and made preparations for, commencing the eastern transept of
+the Cathedral, which is a special feature of Durham, now known as the
+Chapel of the Nine Altars. He was not, however, destined to live to see
+his idea carried out.
+
+The eastern termination of Carileph's choir had been apsidal; it was
+found to be in a very unsafe condition, cracks and fissures appearing in
+the walls. Various bishops and priors sent aid towards "the new work,"
+but actual building did not commence until after the death of Bishop
+Poore in 1237. The erection was commenced by Prior Melsanby and, of
+course, necessitated the taking down of Carileph's apses. The revaulting
+of the choir was undertaken at this time, doubtless, for artistic
+reasons, to bring the new work into harmony with the old. The Chapel of
+the Nine Altars is a rare and valuable specimen of Early English Gothic
+architecture of remarkable and graceful design. Below each of its nine
+lancet windows was originally an altar, dedicated to different saints.
+Its great height was obtained by lowering the floor, so that the unity
+of the whole exterior should not be destroyed. Prior Melsanby is also
+said to have put a new roof on the church.
+
+Prior Hugh de Derlington, who was at the head of affairs from 1258 to
+1272, and later from 1285 to 1289, added a belfry to the central tower.
+
+John Fossor, made prior of Durham in 1342, inserted the large window in
+the north transept and the west windows of the nave.
+
+Bishop Thomas de Hatfield (1346 to 1381) seems to have done no
+architectural work beyond the erection of his own throne and tomb (in
+which he was afterwards buried) on the south side of the choir. This is
+an elaborate and sumptuous piece of work, and shows remains of rich
+colouring and gilding. About this time, also, the beautiful altar screen
+known as the Neville screen was erected. Its cost was principally borne
+by Lord John Neville, though the Priors Fossor and Berrington and the
+subordinate cells of Jarrow and Monkwearmouth were also contributors.
+The screen is of stone--very light and graceful, and originally
+contained in the niches 107 figures, which have unfortunately been
+destroyed.
+
+Bishop Walter de Skirlaw, who occupied the episcopal throne from 1388 to
+1405, was a great builder. To him mainly we owe the present cloisters,
+though they were completed by his successor, Cardinal Langley, in 1418.
+
+The monks' dormitory on the western side of the cloister is also of this
+time. On the southern side was the refectory. This portion was rebuilt
+by Dean Sudbury between 1661 and 1684 and converted into a library, and
+such it remains to-day.
+
+Near the refectory is the kitchen, built by Prior Fossor. It is
+octagonal in plan, and possesses a fine groined roof. It is now attached
+to the deanery, and known as the dean's kitchen.
+
+We must now turn our attention to the erection of the present central
+tower. The belfry added by Hugh de Derlington was in 1429 struck by
+lightning and set on fire. It must after this have been repaired in some
+way, but in 1456 it was in a very unsafe and dangerous condition, as the
+following letter written by the prior, William Ebchester, to Bishop
+Neville testifies:--
+
+    "The Belfry of your church, both in its masonry and timber, in
+    consequence of winds and storms is so enfeebled and shaken, that
+    doubts are entertained of its standing for any length of time. We
+    have called in workmen in both capacities, and they have reported to
+    us that three of its sides are out of perpendicular, that many of
+    the Key and cornerstones of its windows have fallen out, that in
+    other respects it is defective, and that besides, its woodwork is in
+    a state of great decay so that it cannot be expected to stand for
+    any length of time. Some are of opinion that the belfry should be
+    totally removed as it cannot stand longer; others on the contrary,
+    wish it to be perfectly restored; a thing which exceeds our means,
+    unless we have the advantage of charitable aid. In this state of
+    doubt and hesitation, we have recourse to you, as members to their
+    head, presuming not to engage in any such great and stupendous
+    alteration with reference to your church, without your advice.
+
+    "If, which God forbid, the tower should fall, the solemn fabric of
+    our choir, and the shrine of our most holy patron, would without
+    doubt, be broken down and irrevocably laid flat on the ground, for
+    that is the direction in which it leans. We confess that whenever
+    winds and storms are high, and we are standing at our duty in that
+    part of the church we tremble for our fate, having positive danger
+    before our eyes."
+
+Shortly afterwards, the rebuilding of all the upper part of the central
+tower was commenced and continued for some years. It was not complete in
+1474 when Richard Bell was prior, as in a letter written at the time he
+mentions the "reedificacion of our steeple, begun but nogt fynyshed, in
+defaulte of goods, as God knoweth." It is therefore most probable that
+the upper portion was not completed until towards the close of the
+fifteenth century.
+
+We have now reached a period when the glories of Gothic architecture
+were fading, during which many of our finest churches suffered
+considerably. Durham is no exception to the rule, and we find during the
+next two centuries a long record of destruction and so-called
+improvement. This, perhaps, reached its worst stage during the time of
+Wyatt, who in 1796 pulled down the magnificent Norman chapter-house.
+During the last decade, however, this has been completely rebuilt from
+as nearly as possible the original design. Wyatt also rebuilt the
+turrets on the eastern transept or Nine Altar Chapel from his own
+design, and removed the great Early English rose window in the east end
+and replaced it by the present one. The original stained glass was taken
+out of all the windows of the east end, and Raine, in his history, tells
+us that it "lay for a long time afterwards in baskets upon the floor,
+and when the greater part of it had been purloined, the remainder was
+locked up in the Galilee.... At a still later period, about fifteen
+years ago, portions of it were placed in the great round window, and the
+rest still remains unappropriated." This was written in 1833. It is also
+on record that Wyatt formed a scheme to re-open the great western
+doorway of the cathedral by the pulling down of the Galilee Chapel, from
+which he intended constructing a carriage-drive to the castle. This
+abomination was actually commenced when Dean Cornwallis arrived, and he,
+with the assistance of John Carter, and the Society of Antiquaries, was
+fortunately able to put a stop to it. Thus was this beautiful and unique
+specimen of Transitional Norman architecture preserved to us.
+
+Wyatt contemplated several other "improvements" of a similar character,
+one of which was the surmounting of the central tower by a spire, but
+fortunately he was not allowed to carry them out.
+
+During the present century many restorations have been made, of which we
+will mention only the most notable:--The central tower was restored by
+Sir Gilbert Scott in 1859.
+
+During 1870 to 1876 extensive internal alterations were made. A new
+choir screen and pulpit were erected, the floor of the choir laid in
+marble mosaic, the choir stalls returned to their original positions,
+and the walls of the church scraped in order to clear them from the many
+coats of lime and distemper which lay on them.
+
+[Illustration: The West End (from an Old Print).]
+
+The Norman chapter-house has lately been restored and in great part
+rebuilt as a memorial to the late Bishop Lightfoot.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: The Exterior, From Palace Green.]
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+DESCRIPTION OF THE EXTERIOR
+
+
+Approaching the Cathedral Church of Durham from the north by the large
+open space between it and the Castle, known as the Palace Green, we
+obtain a complete elevation of the whole structure. There is little room
+to doubt, though the details naturally vary with the date of erection,
+that the original plan of Carileph's church has been carried out in its
+entirety, with two exceptions. These are the addition of the eastern
+transept or nine altar chapel at the east, and the Galilee or Lady
+Chapel at the west end. The entire length of the building, not including
+the Galilee chapel, is 431 feet, which is made up as follows:--Nine
+altar chapel 51 feet, the choir 120 feet, the transept 57 feet, and the
+nave 203 feet.
+
+The #Western Towers# are square and solid, and were evidently
+included in Carileph's own scheme, as the wall arcades on both the
+interior and exterior are carried round them. The Norman work is
+continued as far as the nave roof, and it is extremely probable that
+they were originally terminated at this height, in accordance with the
+Norman custom, with low pyramidal spires, probably of wood. Exactly at
+what date they were raised is not on record, but the style of
+architecture of the upper portion suggests the early part of the
+thirteenth century. The added portion, namely that above the
+clerestory, consists of four stages, and is beautifully varied by
+moulded arcading, with blind and open arches. The first and third stages
+have pointed arches, while those of the second and fourth are round.
+Above this again were tall wooden spires covered with lead. These were
+removed about the year 1657, and towards the close of the eighteenth
+century the present pinnacles and open parapets were added. At this
+time, also, much of the surface of the towers was renewed.
+
+The #Central Tower.#--The present central tower is noble in
+proportion, and forms a fitting and harmonious summit to the whole
+group. It must needs be of a very different character from the old
+Norman tower, of which no trace now remains; and was most probably of
+the usual type, low and square, and surmounted by a short pyramidal
+spire. The existing structure may be attributed to Bishop Booth and
+Prior Richard Bell, about 1474, when the letter previously quoted was
+written. Externally the tower is divided into two storeys. The lower
+portion contains, on each side, a pair of two-light windows, glazed,
+each divided by a transom, and their heads having an ogee label
+crocketed and finished with a tall finial also crocketed. Between and on
+either side of these windows are panelled pilasters and brackets
+carrying figures. The lower and upper stages are divided by a narrow
+external gallery running round the tower, and protected by a pierced,
+embattled parapet. This is known as the Bell Ringers' Gallery, and
+certainly adds greatly to the effect of the tower as a whole. The upper
+stage, which is much less lofty, has also two two-light windows on each
+face, surmounted by crocketed ogee label mouldings and finials. These
+lights are louvred. The whole is surmounted by a deep open-work parapet.
+On each angle of the tower are two buttresses, which are decorated with
+panelling and canopied and crocketed niches containing figures. The
+interior of the tower or lantern is remarkable for the gallery which
+runs round it, which is reached from the roofs of the nave and choir
+transepts by doors. It rests on corbels, each alternate one being carved
+with grotesque heads, and is protected by a parapet pierced in
+quatrefoils. The four doorways are ogee-headed, with crockets and
+finials. There is strong evidence in the construction of the present
+tower that it was the original intention to surmount it by some other
+erection, probably a spire. Each interior angle contains strong and
+massive squinches which are of no constructive use at present, and must
+have been originally inserted to carry some superstructure. The
+buttresses at the angles are also carried up to the parapet, which would
+seem to point to the same conclusion. Why this project was never carried
+out cannot be said, but probably it would not have added to the artistic
+effect of the tower. The belfry contains a peal of eight bells.
+
+[Illustration: The Central Tower.]
+
+The #East Front.#--The circumstances which led to the removal of
+Carileph's apses and the erection of the eastern transept have
+already been referred to. The present east end is divided into three
+bays by massive buttresses, each of which contains three lofty lancet
+windows separated by smaller buttresses. Over all, and in the gable, is
+the famous large rose window. The north and south ends of the transept
+are finished with the tall pyramidal pinnacles erected by Wyatt.
+
+The #West Front# of Durham has, curiously enough, also lost its
+original character. The western doorway of the cathedral is hidden on
+the exterior by the Galilee or Lady Chapel, which was added by Pudsey in
+1175. Above the Galilee roof is the large window inserted about the year
+1346, while John Fossor was prior. The pointed arch of this window has
+over it, on the exterior, the original great semi-circular arch. Above
+this again, and between the two flanking western towers, is a small
+gable. The west end of the cathedral, when seen from the opposite side
+of the river, is extremely picturesque. The projecting mass of the
+Galilee, the western towers, the foreshortened nave roof, and the
+majestic central tower behind and above, form a group of high and rare
+excellence.
+
+The #North Door# is now the principal entrance to the cathedral.
+Externally the present porch is the work of Wyatt. The first porch was
+Norman, of four orders depth, with detached shafts in the recesses.
+Above this was a high-pitched gable and roof, the front being ornamented
+with a semi-circular-headed wall arcading. The inner side of the doorway
+is of two orders only, and is probably the only remaining portion of the
+original. The outer shaft is left plain, while the inner one, in each
+case, is most elaborately carved. The capitals are all carved, and the
+arch moulds richly ornamented with chevrons, foliage, and lozenges, as
+well as many curious figure subjects. While examining this doorway,
+notice should be taken of the ironwork of the door itself, and
+particularly of the sanctuary knocker. In mediaeval times all churches
+afforded sanctuary to wrong-doers, but at places where the shrines of
+saints existed the sanctuary privileges were much greater. Durham being
+one of these, there are many curious cases on record of persons claiming
+the privilege, and protection from the secular law. The earliest
+instance, of which any record has been kept, of sanctuary being claimed
+at the shrine of S. Cuthbert is during the episcopate of Cynewulf, who
+was bishop from 740 to 748, and the last recorded was in 1524. Criminals
+claiming sanctuary were admitted by two janitors, who occupied two
+small chambers over the doorway, traces of which may still be observed.
+The knocker itself, as may be seen from the illustration, is a great
+grotesque head, made of bronze, and hanging from its grinning mouth is a
+ring. Originally, there is no doubt, the eyes were filled with crystals
+or enamel, as small claw-like pieces of bronze remain by which the
+filling was attached. The age of this piece of work is probably the same
+as that of the doorway itself.
+
+[Illustration: Detail Of Ironwork.]
+
+[Illustration: The Sanctuary Knocker.]
+
+[Illustration: Ironwork On Doors of Cloisters.]
+
+The #South Doorways.#--There are two doorways into the south aisle,
+one, known as the Monks' Door, opening from the western portion of the
+cloisters and immediately opposite the north porch just described. On
+the cloister side this shows a Norman arch resting on double shafts,
+which are enriched with a lozenge pattern. On the inner or aisle side
+there are two orders, with shafts in the recesses, which are also
+decorated with the lozenge. The inner arch is carved with chevrons, and
+the outer with conventional foliage and medallions. The capitals are
+richly carved with foliage and grotesques. On the abacus and arch of
+this doorway occurs a leaf pattern strongly suggesting the Byzantine
+influence which at one time was found in Norman decoration. Here again,
+on the door itself, we have a fine specimen of very elaborate and
+characteristic Norman iron-work. The second, known as the Priors' Door,
+opens into the south aisle from the eastern alley of the cloister, is
+also Norman. The outer or cloister side is of the time of Bishop Pudsey,
+and has an arch of four orders, with three shafts in the recesses on
+either side. Its once elaborate sculpture is now much decayed, not
+enough remaining to suggest that in its original state this doorway must
+have been a noble specimen of the architectural design of its period. On
+the inner side it exhibits work of Carileph's time, with an early arch,
+cushion capitals, and shafts.
+
+[Illustration: Ornament On South Doorway.]
+
+The #Western Doorway.#--The exterior of this great doorway is now within
+the Galilee chapel. It was built by Flambard (1099-1128), and is
+comparatively plain. On the Galilee side it consists of an arch of four
+orders ornamented with chevrons. The inner face is very similar to the
+outer, but is shallower, having only two orders. The shafts and capitals
+are without decoration, and the arch ornamented with chevron and a leaf
+pattern with medallions carved with grotesque animals. In order to
+reopen this doorway and make a carriage road up to it, Wyatt proposed
+pulling down the Galilee chapel.
+
+[Illustration: The Cloister.]
+
+The #Cloister# occupies a large open space, bounded on the south,
+east, and west by the various monastic buildings, and on the north by
+the cathedral itself. The existing cloister was commenced during the
+time of Bishop Skirlaw (1388 to 1406), and was completed by Cardinal
+Langley (who held the see from 1406 till 1438), probably in the earlier
+part of his episcopate. The contracts (the first dated 1398) for
+building the cloister are still preserved in the treasury. We are
+indebted to Bishop Skirlaw for their very existence, as it is recorded
+that he contributed sums of money for this purpose, both during his life
+and by his will. The cloister, as seen to-day, has been very much
+altered and restored, and probably the only original feature remaining
+is the fine oaken ceiling. This is panelled, and moulded, and decorated
+with shields, upon which are painted and gilded various coats of arms.
+In the centre of the cloister garth are the remains of what was the
+monks' lavatory. It was erected in the years 1432 and 1433, and was of
+octagonal shape. Some of the stone for its construction was brought from
+Egglestone-on-Tees, on payment of rent to the abbot of that place to
+quarry it. It is said to have had twenty-four brass spouts, seven
+windows, and in its upper storey a dovecote, the roof of which was
+covered with lead.
+
+There is no doubt that there was a cloister attached to the monastery in
+its early days, but of this no trace remains. It is also probable that
+one was erected by Bishop Pudsey, though this also has entirely
+vanished, unless (as suggested by Canon Greenwell) some marks of a
+lean-to roof on the north and east walls may be traces of its presence.
+In the western alley of the cloister is the old treasury, rich in
+records, and the vestries for canons, king's scholars, and choristers.
+The alley opens at the end into what is now called the crypt (see p.
+85). This was undoubtedly the common hall of the monks. It is a spacious
+stone-vaulted chamber. The columns are low and massive, with simple
+moulded caps, from which the chamfered vaulting ribs diverge. Over the
+hall or crypt is the dormitory, which for a long time formed part of a
+residence attached to one of the stalls. It is now, however, used as a
+library. It occupies the whole of the western side of the cloister, and
+is 194 feet long. It was originally subdivided, by wooden partitions,
+into separate sleeping-rooms for each monk. Its massive roof of oak is
+worthy of attention, the tree trunks being merely roughly squared with
+an axe (see p. 99).
+
+In the south alley was the refectory and the monks' common dining-hall.
+The original building is now entirely altered, though there remains
+beneath it a very early crypt, with plain, short square piers, and a
+simple quadripartite vault without ribs. Another portion is covered by a
+wagon-head vault. Whether the original refectory was of similar
+architectural character it is now impossible to say, as, whatever it may
+have been, it was removed early in the sixteenth century and rebuilt,
+and after the dissolution of the monastery was used by the Minor Canons
+of the church as a common hall. It seems to have fallen into a bad state
+of repair, and was again entirely reconstructed by Dean Sudbury
+(1661-1684), who was elected to that office immediately after the
+Restoration. He converted it into a library, to which use it is still
+put. The account of this building, given in the "Antiquities of Durham,"
+is of sufficient interest to bear quotation.
+
+    "In the _South_ Alley of the Cloysters," says our authority, "is a
+    large Hall, called the Frater-house, finely wainscotted on the
+    _North_ and _South_ sides; and in the _West_ and nether Part
+    thereof, is a long Bench of Stone in Mason-work, from the Cellar
+    Door to the Pantry or Cove Door: Above the Bench is Wainscot Work
+    two Yards and a Half high, finely carved, and set with imboss'd Work
+    in Wainscot, and gilded under the carved Work. Above the Wainscot
+    was a large Picture of our Saviour Christ, the blessed Virgin
+    _Mary_, and _S. John_, in fine gilt Work, and most excellent
+    Colours; which Pictures having been washed over with Lime did long
+    appear through it. This Wainscot had engraven on the Top of it,
+    _Thomas Castell_, Prior, Anno Domini, 1518 Mensis Julij. Whence it
+    is manifest that Prior _Castell_ wainscotted the Frater-house round
+    about.
+
+    "Within the Frater-house Door, on the Left Hand at entering, is a
+    strong Almery in the Wall, wherein a great Mazer, called the Grace
+    Cup, stood, which every day served the Monks after Grace, to drink
+    out of round the Table; which cup was finely edged about with
+    Silver, and double Gilt. In the same place were kept many large and
+    great Mazers of the same sort.... Every Monk had his Mazer severally
+    by himself to drink in, and had all other Things that served the
+    whole Convent, and the Frater-house in their daily Service, at their
+    Diet, and at their Table.... At these Times (at meals) the Master
+    observed these wholesom and godly Orders, for the continual
+    instruction of their Youth in Virtue and Learning; that is, one of
+    the Novices appointed by the Master, read some Part of the Old and
+    New Testament in Latin, during Dinner, having a convenient place at
+    the _South_ End of the High Table, within a beautiful Glass Window,
+    encompass'd with Iron, and certain Stone Steps, with Iron Rails to
+    go up to an Iron Desk, whereon lay the Holy Bible....
+
+    "This Fabrick retained the Name of the Petty Canons' Hall till _Dr
+    Sudbury_, Dean of the Cathedral, generously erected a beautiful
+    Library in its Place; but he not living to finish it compleatly, did
+    by (a clause) in his Last Will, bind his Heir, _Sir John Sudbury_,
+    to the due Execution thereof."
+
+[Illustration: S. Cuthbert's Chest.]
+
+The contents of the library are both numerous and interesting. There are
+several thousands of volumes, many of them being rare and valuable.
+Numerous ancient illuminated MSS., among which is a copy of the Gospels
+of S. Mark, S. Luke, and S. John, written before the year 700; and
+several books given by Bishops Carileph and Pudsey. Among the latter is
+a Bible, in four volumes, in its original stamped leather binding. A
+collection of ancient copes belonging to the cathedral, and the remains
+of the robes of S. Cuthbert, and other relics taken from his coffin when
+it was exhumed, in 1827, may also be seen here. Numerous specimens of
+Roman altars, tablets, and sculptured stones, from various Roman
+stations in Durham and Northumberland, notably from Hexham, are
+preserved in this library, which is open to the public on Tuesday and
+Friday in each week from eleven to one. The room is finely proportioned,
+and has a magnificent open timber roof.
+
+[Illustration: The Chapter-House.]
+
+The #Chapter-House# opens upon the eastern alley of the cloister. The
+present building is a very recent restoration of the original, which is
+acknowledged to have been the finest existing Norman chapter-house
+remaining in England. It was erected, or more probably completed, during
+the time of Bishop Galfrid Rufus (1133-1140), and was in existence until
+1796, during the episcopate of Bishop Barrington. At that time it was
+almost totally destroyed, on the advice of Wyatt, who reported to the
+chapter that it was in a ruinous state. The truth of this report is
+doubtful, but the partial demolition of the building was ordered in
+November 1795, and also the construction of a new room on the site. The
+work of destruction was begun by knocking out the keystones of the
+vaulting and allowing the roof to fall in. The eastern half of the
+building was then altogether removed, and the remaining portion enclosed
+by a wall. Its interior was faced with lath and plaster, a plaster
+ceiling and a boarded floor being added. Fortunately authentic records
+of its original appearance, both exterior and interior, are in
+existence. They are the drawings made for the Society of Antiquaries by
+John Carter in 1795. Its dimensions were 78 by 35 feet; the east end
+being apsidal and the roof a vault of one span. Round the wall of the
+interior ran a stone bench raised on two steps, which was surmounted,
+except at the west end, by a wall arcade, of round-headed intersecting
+arches, similar to that in the aisles of the cathedral, but with single
+instead of double shafts. Above the arcade was a string course carved
+with zig-zag ornament. The entrance was from the west end, and the east
+end was occupied by two seats, one for the bishop and one for the prior.
+In the apse were five three-light windows of the Decorated period, and
+above the western door a five-light Perpendicular window, which
+contained coloured glass, illustrating the "Root of Jesse." On either
+side of this was a window of two lights, divided by a shaft and enclosed
+under one arch, carved with chevron ornament. There was also a
+round-headed Norman window in each of the north and south walls. A
+doorway in the south wall led to three chambers, one larger, and two
+smaller, which are stated in the "Rites of Durham" to have been used as
+a prison for the monks. The chapter-house was used in early times as a
+burial-place for the bishops, and many of their graves with inscriptions
+were in existence previous to the demolition of 1796. During excavations
+in 1874, the graves of Bishops Flambard, Galfrid Rufus, S. Barbara, de
+Insula, and Kellaw were opened, when various rings and the head of a
+crozier were discovered and removed to the dean and chapter library.
+
+The chapter-house has now been entirely restored as a memorial to the
+late Bishop Lightfoot.
+
+The #Northern Alley# of the Cloister, running along the south wall of
+the church, contains little of interest, except the two doorways
+previously described.
+
+The effect of the cloister as a whole, in its original condition, with
+the windows glazed, many containing fine stained glass, the oak roof
+with its heraldry and colour, and the lavatory in the centre of the
+garth, must have been exceptionally fine.
+
+[Illustration: The Exterior, from the South-east.]
+
+A sculptured panel on the north-west turret of the Nine Altar Chapel is
+now known as the #Dun Cow#. The original sculpture was replaced in
+the last century by the existing panel, but the legend connected with it
+is interesting. After their flight from Chester-le-Street, the monks,
+bearing the body of S. Cuthbert, remained some time at Ripon. While
+trying to return to Chester-le-Street, at a place called Wardlaw, the
+coffin stuck fast, and remained absolutely fixed. A fast of three days
+was proclaimed and kept, when it was revealed to them that they were to
+carry their saint to Dunholme. Still they were in difficulties, not
+knowing where Dunholme was, but fortune, or Providence, again favoured
+them. A woman, who had lost a cow, passed, calling to a companion to
+inquire if she had seen the animal. The reply was that her cow was in
+Dunholme; and, to the relief of the monks, they and their precious
+charge soon safely arrived there. In grateful commemoration of the
+incident Flambard erected this monument of a milkmaid and her cow. (See
+p. 9.)
+
+The exterior of Durham Cathedral as a whole may at first sight be
+disappointing to the visitor. Seen from a near view there is a certain
+flatness of effect and want of light and shade which is, perhaps,
+slightly unpleasant. This is, however, largely attributable to the
+scaling and scraping process to which the building was subjected during
+the last century, when some inches of the outer surface of the stone,
+and with it much architectural detail, were removed. The result is the
+flatness previously alluded to, and a general newness of appearance
+pervades the structure. Seen, however, from a distance, where only the
+finely-grouped and proportioned masses of masonry, towers, and turrets
+stand against the sky, the result is magnificent, giving an impression
+of grandeur and dignity unsurpassed by any other English cathedral.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: The Nave, looking West.]
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+DESCRIPTION OF THE INTERIOR
+
+
+If the exterior of Durham is in any way disappointing, the interior more
+than compensates for its shortcomings. The general impression on
+entering the church is one of simple dignity and solemnity. The great
+massiveness of the structure and absence of elaborate ornament no doubt
+contribute to this feeling. The pious builders of old have certainly
+contrived to stamp on their work their own feeling of awe in the
+presence of the All-Powerful and Eternal God. Whatever has been lost
+through vandalism and the restorer, this remains unaltered. The general
+design of the church, exclusive of detail, which, of course, changed and
+developed with the progress of Gothic art, has undoubtedly been carried
+out on the plan intended by Bishop Carileph, the only important
+variation being the addition of the transept at the east end, known as
+the Nine Altars Chapel. The original plan consists of a nave and aisles,
+transepts with aisles on their eastern side, a choir also with aisles,
+and the three apses of the east end, with a central tower over the
+junction of transepts, nave, and choir, and towers flanking the west
+end.
+
+[Illustration: One Bay Of The Nave (Measured Drawing).]
+
+Each bay of the #Nave# is divided into two sub-bays. The main bays
+have massive piers with engaged shafts on the recessed faces. The bases
+of these are cruciform in plan, though the arms of the cross are very
+short. At the height of the springing of the arch the shafts are
+surmounted by plain cushion capitals. The division into sub-bays is
+effected by the introduction midway of a massive round column on a
+square base. These columns are ornamented in various ways, by channels
+cut on the face. Some take the form of a zig-zag, some a spiral, others
+a spiral in two directions, forming a trellis-like pattern, and others
+again are reeded vertically. Their capitals are octagonal cushions. The
+arches of the sub-bays are recessed square, with the usual Norman roll
+moulding, decorated with chevrons, and on the wall face a square billet.
+The chevron ornament is absent in the earlier work in the choir and
+transepts. The triforium is almost uniform throughout the whole church.
+In each sub-bay it consists of two small arches under one larger one,
+with the tympanum solid. Here also the capitals are cushions and
+perfectly plain.
+
+[Illustration: Triforium and Clerestory.]
+
+Above the triforium is the clerestory, which contains one light to each
+sub-bay, and surmounting all is the vaulting, which springs from the
+piers and from grotesquely carved corbels between the triforium arches.
+The vaulting ribs are ornamented with chevrons on either side of a bold
+semi-circular moulding. So much for the general arrangement of the bays.
+Some idea of the massiveness of the structures may be gathered when it
+is known that each group of the clustered pillars separating the bays
+covers an area of two hundred and twenty-five square feet at its base,
+while those of the cylindrical columns of the sub-bays are twelve feet
+square, and the columns themselves have a circumference of over
+twenty-three feet. There is little room to doubt that the effect
+obtained by the old builders of Durham was intentional. The masterly way
+in which great masses of solid masonry, greater than was constructively
+necessary, are handled, and the reticence and delicacy of the ornament
+combine to prove this. There is in the whole scheme a delightful union
+of great power and vigour in the masses, and of tenderness and loving
+care in the detail.
+
+The #Choir# is the earliest part of the church. Its two western bays
+show Carileph's work, but the eastern piers have been considerably
+altered owing to the addition at a later period of the eastern transept,
+when Carileph's apses were taken down. This bay contains some very rich
+and beautiful detail. The piers on either side of the choir are
+decorated with arcades, the lower stage having six arches, and the upper
+three, all richly carved with foliage in the caps and hood moulds, and
+with heads and half figures. There is also a square aumbry on each pier.
+Above the upper arcade, which breaks through the level of the triforium
+string course, which is also carried round it, there is on each pier a
+figure of an angel beneath a canopy. These are the only two figures
+remaining of many which formerly added to the beauty of the interior of
+the church. The vaulting of the choir is thirteenth-century work,
+quadripartite, the ribs decorated with dog-tooth ornament and square
+leaves, and has fine bosses at the intersections of the diagonal ribs.
+The choir of Durham is especially interesting to the student of
+architecture, showing as it does the Early Norman work of Carileph,
+combined with the Early English and Early Decorated work of the newer
+eastern portion.
+
+On the south side of the choir stands the monument of Bishop Hatfield,
+who directed the see of Durham from 1345 until 1381. This monument is
+beneath the Episcopal Throne, which was erected by Bishop Hatfield
+himself. It consists of an altar tomb surmounted by a recumbent effigy
+of the bishop, in richly-worked robes, beneath a canopy, richly groined,
+with foliated bosses at the intersections of the ribs. On the walls at
+the east and west ends may still be seen the remains of fresco painting,
+representing in each case two angels. Beneath the staircase leading up
+to the throne is a very fine decorated arcade, containing several
+shields bearing the bishop's and other arms. The whole structure was
+originally richly coloured and gilded, and remains of this work can
+still be made out. It is a noble specimen of the work of its date.
+
+Immediately opposite the tomb of Bishop Hatfield, on the north side of
+the choir, the visitor will notice the recently-erected memorial to the
+late Bishop Lightfoot. This is an altar tomb of black and coloured
+marble. The sides are ornamented with panels of Perpendicular tracery
+containing shields. Round the upper mouldings runs a Latin inscription
+in brass. The whole is surmounted by a recumbent figure of the bishop in
+white marble, his hands on his breast, and his feet resting against
+three books. Originally designed by Sir Edgar Boehm, R.A., at his death
+the monument was completed by Alfred Gilbert, R.A.
+
+The beautiful altar screen is usually known as the #Neville Screen,#
+and was erected about the year 1380, mainly from moneys supplied by
+John, Lord Neville of Raby. It spans the whole of the choir, and is
+continued along the sides of the sacrarium, forming sedilia of four
+seats on either side. It is pierced by two doors, which lead to the
+shrine of S. Cuthbert, immediately behind the screen. Though very light
+and graceful in appearance, the screen, as it is at present, can give
+the beholder little idea of what its appearance must have been when
+each of its canopied niches contained a figure aglow with gold and
+colour. There were originally 107 of these statues, the centre one
+representing Our Lady, supported on either side by S. Cuthbert and S.
+Oswald. Unfortunately none of the figures remain _in situ_.
+
+Immediately in front of the steps of the high altar will be seen the
+matrix of a large brass. It covers the grave of Ludovick de Bellomonte,
+Bishop of Durham from 1318 to 1333. The slab, which is in two pieces,
+measures fifteen feet ten inches by nine feet seven inches, and an
+examination will show the brass to have been an elaborate and sumptuous
+composition. Unfortunately all the metal work has disappeared.
+
+The #Stalls,# as they originally existed, were destroyed in 1650 by
+the Scottish prisoners, who were kept in the cathedral after the battle
+of Dunbar. The present stalls we owe to Bishop Cosin (1660 to 1672), and
+they are remarkable pieces of carving for that date. In general
+character they imitate Perpendicular work, though the details do not
+adhere altogether to that style.
+
+Before leaving this part of the church a note may be devoted to the
+alterations and additions made during the years 1870 to 1876. A new
+screen between the nave and choir was then erected; the choir floor
+relaid with marble mosaic; the stalls replaced in their old positions,
+and new portions made to replace those destroyed in 1846. A new organ,
+pulpit, and lectern were also added.
+
+The new #Choir Screen# is very much open to criticism. Though no
+doubt beautiful in detail, and of excellent workmanship, its effect, as
+a whole, is not pleasant, when seen from the west end silhouetted
+against the light of the choir. A screen previously existed in this
+position erected by Bishop Cosin. This was removed in 1846, with the
+idea of improving the appearance of the church from the west end by
+obtaining a "vista" through to the Neville screen and rose window of the
+eastern transept. The effect seems, however, to have been disappointing,
+hence the erection of the present screen, which may or may not have
+improved matters. In the two western piers of the choir holes may be
+seen cut in the stonework. These received the rood-beam from which,
+during Lent, the Lenten curtain was suspended.
+
+[Illustration: The Choir, looking West.]
+
+The #North Aisle of the Choir,# again, shows the joining and
+harmonising of the "new work" of the eastern transept with the earlier
+Norman work. Inside the church the most easterly bay appears to be
+altogether of Early English date; but on the exterior it will be seen
+that the Norman wall runs right up to the western wall of the eastern
+transept. The interior of the bay, however, is enriched with a wall
+arcade similar to that in the Nine Altars Chapel, and the arch and vault
+are decorated with foliage and dog-tooth ornament.
+
+Along the side wall of this aisle runs a stone bench bearing the arms of
+Bishop Walter de Skirlaw (1388 to 1405), near which he was buried, but
+his monument and brass, erected by himself, have disappeared.
+
+Slightly westward of the bench is a doorway which at one time opened
+into the Sacrist's Exchequer, erected by Prior Wessington, but it has
+long ago been destroyed.
+
+The piers of the west end of this aisle bear marks which were originally
+holes cut in the stone. These served to support a porch, having a rood
+and altar, which is thus described in the "Rites of Durham":
+
+    "Right over the Entrance of this North Alleye, going to the Songe
+    Scoole (the Exchequer mentioned above) there was a porch adjoyninge
+    to the quire on the South, and S. Benedick's altar on the North, the
+    porch having in it an altar, and the roode or picture of our
+    Saviour, which altar and roode was much frequented in devotion by
+    Docteur Swalwell, sometime monk of Durham, the said roode havinge
+    marveilous sumptuous furniture for festivall dayes belonginge to
+    it."
+
+The #South Aisle Of the Choir# is similar architecturally to the
+north aisle. Here may be seen a doorway, of late thirteenth-century
+work, which originally led to the revestry, now destroyed.
+
+Here again the eastern piers bear marks left by holes in the stonework,
+which originally earned the supports of a screen, in front of which the
+Black Rood of Scotland, which was taken from King David at the battle of
+Neville's Cross (1346), was placed. The rood is described as having been
+brought from Holyrood by David Bruce, and was made of silver, with
+effigies of our Saviour, S. John, and Our Lady, having crowns of gold on
+their heads. The Black Rood was restored to its original possessors at
+the close of the war.
+
+The windows of both the choir aisles originally contained very fine old
+stained glass, representing various saints, and scenes in the life of S.
+Cuthbert.
+
+The #Transepts.#--Leaving the choir by its western end the visitor at
+once enters the transepts. A large portion of these, including the great
+piers and arches which carry the central tower, are, without doubt, of
+the time of Carileph. The eastern side of both is certainly his work,
+while the western is probably the building which was carried on by the
+monks in the interval between Carileph's death, in 1096, and the
+appointment of Flambard to the see in 1099. The work on the eastern
+sides differs little from that of the choir, while that of the western
+sides, being plainer, has been thought by some to indicate a want of
+means on the part of the monks, while carrying on the work in the
+interval just alluded to. Each transept consists of two bays, with an
+aisle on the eastern side, access to which is gained by the ascent of
+three steps.
+
+Each of the three sub-bays nearest the north and south extremities
+originally contained an altar, those in the north transept being
+dedicated to S. Nicholas and S. Giles, S. Gregory and S. Benedict. Over
+the site of the latter may still be seen remains of fresco painting. The
+altars in the south transept were dedicated--one to S. Faith and S.
+Thomas the Apostle, one to our Lady of Bolton and the other to our Lady
+of Houghall. The north transept is closed by a large window, which is
+the work of Prior Fossor, probably about the year 1362. The window is of
+six lights, and the head contains late geometrical tracery. The
+architectural feature of this window, especially for its date, is the
+transom which crosses the mullions, and which is not visible from the
+exterior. Below the transom is a second inner set of mullions supporting
+a small gallery, by means of which access may be had to the triforium.
+In the year 1512 the window was repaired by Prior Castell, who filled it
+with stained glass containing large figures, among others of S.
+Augustine, S. Ambrose, S. Gregory, and S. Jerome. From this circumstance
+the window became known as the window of the Four Doctors of the Church.
+Prior Castell also contrived to introduce a figure of himself kneeling
+at the feet of the Virgin. The large window at the end of the south
+transept, also named from the glass it contained, the _Te Deum_ window,
+is in the Perpendicular style, and is of six lights. It may possibly
+have been the work of Prior Wessington, 1416 to 1446. Along the sill of
+this window also access may be had to the triforium.
+
+[Illustration: The Transepts, looking North.]
+
+Both the north-west and south-west corners of the transepts contain
+stairways, opening at their various levels on to the triforium,
+clerestory, and the space between the vaulting and the roof. That in the
+south transept also gives access to the central tower and belfry, an
+ascent of which, if the day be clear, will repay the visitor for his
+fatiguing climb of three hundred and forty steps by the magnificent view
+spread at his feet. The transepts were no doubt the earliest part of the
+building to be vaulted; that of the northern arm being plain is probably
+the earlier, while that of the south arm, though of similar character,
+has zig-zag ornaments. Several of the priors of Durham were buried in
+the transepts, the first, Prior Fossor, 1364, and the last, Robert
+Ebchester, who died in 1484.
+
+On the piers of the transepts projecting brackets may be noticed. These
+are of Perpendicular date, and originally carried statues.
+
+The crossing, or space between the four piers supporting the central
+tower, gives us a fine view of the interior of the lantern.
+
+The #Tower# is carried on four large clustered Norman piers with
+semi-circular arches. Over the arches, and seventy-seven feet above the
+floor of the church, is the lower stage of the lantern, round which is a
+gallery with an open pierced parapet. It rests on corbels, each
+alternate one being carved with a grotesque head. The walls are panelled
+up to the base of the great windows,--each panel having two cinquefoiled
+arches under a crocketed canopy and final; while between them are small
+buttresses, also panelled, and ending in a finial which reaches the same
+height as the canopy. Over the panelling is a string course ornamented
+with that characteristic ornament of the Perpendicular period, the Tudor
+flower, and above this on each face two tall windows near together. Each
+window has two lights, and is divided by a transom. The roof of the
+lantern is groined, with fine bosses at the intersections of the ribs.
+The whole seen from below has a very fine effect, and must be very
+different in appearance from the original Norman structure. The whole of
+the lantern was refaced, and the statues which had been removed from
+their niches were replaced, some thirty years ago, by the Dean and
+Chapter of Durham.
+
+[Illustration: Corbel in Choir.]
+
+The #Norman East End.#--The original form of the Norman east end has
+long been the subject of discussion and conjecture. It was practically
+safe to assume that the choir ended in an apse, though whether the
+aisles were also apsidal, or continued round a great apse as an
+ambulatory, was a debatable point. This question has now been finally
+settled.
+
+[Illustration: The Choir, looking East.] During some operations
+necessitating the opening of the floor, in January 1895, certain
+indications were found which led the diocesan architect, Mr C.H. Fowler,
+and Canon Greenwell to continue the excavation. The result was the
+discovery that Carileph's church certainly possessed three apses--a
+large one terminating the choir, and smaller ones the aisles. The apses
+of the aisles were square externally, and apsidal internally. The great
+apse consisted of five bays, one on either side next to the choir,
+forming an oblong between the choir and the springing line of the curve
+of the apse, over which would be the great sanctuary arch. The
+remainder, or apse proper, was divided into three bays by engaged
+clustered shafts, similar to those of the choir and nave. It was
+surrounded by a wall arcade of the same character as that of the rest of
+the church. The base of one of the shafts of the arcade was found in
+position. An extremely interesting point in this discovery is the fact
+that the levels are the same as those of the nave and choir. The
+foundations are on the rock at the same depth, and the aisle walls and
+apse walls are in the same line. The external square line of the aisle
+apses is in line with the springing of the choir apse. The foundations
+of the apse to the north aisle have been thoroughly excavated, and there
+is every reason to believe that that on the south side of the church
+entirely corresponds. The width of the north aisle apse from north to
+south is nine feet eight inches. There can be little doubt, judging from
+the remainder of Carileph's work, that all three apses were covered with
+stone vaults, though of precisely what character can only be a matter of
+conjecture. The cracking, previously spoken of, which led to this part
+of the church being taken down and the new eastern transept being
+erected, cannot have arisen from any subsidence of the foundations. It,
+in all probability, was the result of the thrust of the apse vaults on
+to walls which were insufficiently buttressed. The marks on some of the
+stones found during this excavation, and the shape of others, seem to
+point to the conclusion that here we have the earliest part of the
+church, and that Carileph used up in his foundations much of the stone
+of Aldhun's White Church.
+
+Of the two usual eastern endings to Norman churches--viz. those with
+three apses, and those having the aisle carried round as an
+ambulatory--the latter is far more common in England, and the former on
+the Continent. There are two other notable instances of the three
+apsidal arrangement in England: S. Albans, 1077, which is earlier than
+Durham; and Peterboro', 1117, which is later than, and was probably
+modelled on, Durham. There are many examples of ambulatories--the White
+Tower Church (London), Winchester, Gloucester, Worcester, and Norwich
+being among them.
+
+[Illustration: Corbel in Choir.]
+
+The apses of Durham are of considerable depth from east to west, the
+oblong bay previously mentioned, which is fourteen feet wide in that
+direction, adding greatly to this effect. The width of the foundations
+is fourteen feet, and the width of the wall has been seven feet. The
+diameter of the choir apse from north to south was about thirty-two
+feet.
+
+[Illustration: Plan of Norman East End.]
+
+These discoveries are specially interesting, completing as they do the
+whole chain, and leading us with very little imagination to see in its
+original condition what must have been, and may even now claim to be,
+the most noble example of Norman architecture in our country.
+
+[Illustration: Triforium of Nave and Choir.]
+
+[Illustration: Capital in the Nine Altars Chapel.]
+
+The #Nine Altars Chapel.#--Leaving the consideration of what once
+occupied the site of the east end of Durham, we will turn our attention
+to the beautiful erection which now stands there, the eastern transept,
+or, as it is named from the altars of the saints it once contained
+beneath its windows, the Chapel of the Nine Altars. It is approached
+from the aisles by steps, the floor level being lower than that of the
+church proper. It is altogether a remarkable and interesting structure.
+With its lightness and loftiness contrasting grandly with the massive
+Norman nave and choir, its clustered columns of polished marble
+alternating with stone, its fine bold sculpture, its splendid vaulted
+roof and rich arcading, it forms a perfect example of the Early English
+style. Though regular and symmetrical in general design, the detail
+shows great variety, and even irregularity, a quality so often present
+in old work, and so much to its advantage. In general character it may
+be compared with that at Fountains Abbey, which was built during the
+same time.
+
+[Illustration: Capital in the Nine Altars Chapel.]
+
+The circumstances leading to its erection have been already referred to.
+The Norman apses having been partly removed, owing to their dangerous
+condition, the "New Work," as it was always called, was commenced in the
+year 1242. The eastern wall, with its rose and nine lancet windows, is
+the earliest part of the chapel, the north and south walls being later.
+The joining and blending of the work with the Norman of Carileph's choir
+had evidently been accomplished when the chapel was almost completed.
+The eastern wall is of three bays, each bay having three lofty lancet
+windows. The bays are not of equal width, the centre one being regulated
+by the width of the nave of the church, and narrower than the north and
+south bays.
+
+[Illustration: Sections of Hood and Arch Mouldings.]
+
+A very beautiful arcade runs completely round the walls. It is of
+trefoil arches, deeply and richly moulded, supported on marble columns
+carved with foliage. Over the arches is a hood mould terminating with
+heads. In the spandrels are a series of deeply-sunk and moulded
+quatrefoils, two of which contain sculpture. The bases of the columns
+rest on a plinth. Surmounting this arcade is a moulded string, from the
+level of which rise the windows, and above the windows another string
+course and a second range of windows. In the centre bay, however, is
+the large rose window, which is over thirty feet in diameter.
+
+[Illustration: The Nine Altars Chapel.]
+
+The division of the chapel into three bays is effected by two main
+vaulting arches, which spring on the western side from the piers of the
+east end of the choir, and on the eastern side from responds of
+clustered shafts alternately of marble and stone, banded at intervals
+and having richly carved capitals. The arches themselves are deeply
+moulded and ornamented with dog-tooth ornament and foliage. The vault of
+the central bay has eight ribs--two springing from each of the clusters
+just described, and two from each of the choir piers. The vaulting of
+the remaining bays is quadripartite, but has peculiarities which are
+worthy of notice, arising from inequality of width. We must not omit to
+call attention to the exquisite sculpture of the vaulting. The centre
+has figures of the Four Evangelists, while in the north is a beautifully
+executed carving of vine and grapes, and in the south, figure subjects.
+Among the sculptured heads on the wall arcade at the south end, at the
+western side of the two bays into which the south wall is divided, are
+two which are portraits of the men to whom we owe the design and
+execution of the beautiful sculpture of this chapel. One is an elderly
+man, the other much younger, and both wear linen dust-caps over their
+heads.
+
+The nine lancet windows were originally filled with ancient stained
+glass, which, as the reader will remember, was removed, Below each
+window was an altar. They were dedicated a follows, beginning at the
+south end of the chapel:--
+
+  1. S. Andrew and S. Mary Magdalene.          \
+  2. S. John the Baptist and S. Margaret.       > South bay.
+  3. S. Thomas of Canterbury and S. Catherine. /
+
+  4. S. Oswald and S. Lawrence.                \
+  5. S. Cuthbert and S. Bede.                   > Middle bay.
+  6. S. Martin.                                /
+
+  7. S. Peter and S. Paul.                     \
+  8. S. Aidan and S. Helen.                     > North bay.
+  9. S. Michael the Archangel.                 /
+
+The rose window over the lancets of the middle bay is Wyatt's
+"restoration" of the original one. It consists of an outer circle of
+twenty-four and an inner circle of twelve radiating lights, the mullions
+of which are received on a foliated circle in the centre.
+
+In the north wall of the chapel is a very fine window, known as the
+Joseph window, on account of the stained glass it originally contained,
+which illustrated the life-history of Joseph. It is a beautiful example
+of Early Decorated or geometrical Gothic, and is of six lights. There is
+an inner plane of tracery resting on clustered shafts, which is
+connected to the mullions of the window proper by through stones. The
+window occupies the complete width of the north end of the chapel. The
+painted glass which it once contained is thus described in the "Rites of
+Durham":
+
+    "In the North Alley of the said Nine Altars, there is another goodly
+    faire great glass window, called Joseph's Window, the which hath in
+    it all the whole storye of Joseph, most artificially wrought in
+    pictures in fine coloured glass, accordinge as it is sett forth in
+    the Bible, verye good and godly to the beholders thereof."
+
+This window deserves the attention of the architectural student, as it
+is an exceedingly fine specimen of the tracery of its date.
+
+The south wall of the chapel contains two windows, each divided by a
+central mullion, and having an inner mullion connected by through
+stones. They are widely splayed inwards, and separated by a group of
+vaulting shafts. One or both of these windows contained stained glass,
+with the history of the life and miracles of S. Cuthbert. As seen at
+present, they contain tracery of the Perpendicular period, a restoration
+of that inserted by Prior Wessington. Each window is of two lights,
+crossed by a transom. Entry to the nine altars was provided for, as well
+as from the choir and aisles, by two doors on the western side of its
+north and south walls. The northern doorway is now walled up. They enter
+through the wall arcade. The writer of the "Rites of Durham" says the
+north door was made in order to bring in the body of Bishop Anthony Bek,
+who is buried in the chapel. The architectural features of the doorway
+would, however, seem to contradict this theory, and there is little room
+to doubt that both north and south doorways formed part of the original
+design of the structure.
+
+Before leaving this interesting portion of the building we must direct
+our attention to its most important contents, the #Tomb of S.
+Cuthbert#. This, as at present to be seen, is a great oblong
+platform, thirty-seven feet long by twenty-three feet wide, and its
+upper surface or floor six feet above the floor of the chapel. Beneath a
+slab in the centre the bones of the patron saint rest. The shrine of S.
+Cuthbert at one time stood upon this platform, but of that no vestige
+remains.
+
+The floor of the platform is reached by two doors through the Neville
+screen in the choir, and by a small stairway from the south aisle. The
+wanderings of the monks of Lindisfarne with the body of their saint,
+their many difficulties and trials, and their ultimate settlement at
+Dunholme or Durham, have already been described. The shrine was
+eventually set up in its present position by Bishop Carileph, in 1104,
+when he brought it from the cloister garth from the tomb he had there
+set up for its temporary reception, until his church was sufficiently
+advanced to permit of its removal thither. It was visited by large
+numbers of pilgrims, and many important personages were among them. Of
+these may be mentioned William the Conqueror, Henry III. (1255), Edward
+II. (1322), and Henry VI. (1448). The shrine was destroyed soon after
+the surrender of the monastery to the Crown, in 1540, when the body was
+buried beneath the place where its former receptacle had stood. There
+have since this time been traditions that the exact place of the burial
+was secret, and known only, according to one account, to three
+Benedictine monks, who each handed the secret down to a successor. The
+other tradition places the knowledge of the place of burial in the hands
+of the Roman Catholic bishops of the Northern Province. One of these
+traditions was made public in the year 1867, and gave the place of
+interment as being under the second and third steps leading to the tower
+from the south transept. This place was excavated and examined, but no
+trace of any burial could be found there. It is to these traditions
+that Scott refers, in _Marmion_, in the following lines:--
+
+  Chester-le-Street, and Ripon saw
+  His holy corpse, ere Wardilaw
+      Hailed him with joy and fear;
+  And after many wanderings past,
+  He chose his lordly seat at last,
+  Where his cathedral, huge and vast,
+      Looks down upon the Wear.
+  There deep in Durham's Gothic shade
+  His relics are in secret laid;
+      But none may know the place,
+  Save of his holiest servants three,
+  Deep sworn to solemn secrecy,
+      Who share that wondrous grace.
+
+In May 1827 the grave in the Nine Altars Chapel was opened in the
+presence of two of the church dignitaries and other persons. Dr Raine,
+who was also present, has left a careful account of the discoveries then
+made.[3] The outer coffin, that made in 1542, was first removed,
+revealing a second and much decayed coffin and many bones. After the
+removal of these relics the lid of a third oak coffin was revealed, in a
+very advanced state of decay. This innermost coffin was covered over its
+entire surface with carvings of human figures, the heads surrounded by a
+nimbus. When this coffin was removed the skeleton was exposed to view,
+wrapped in coverings, the outer of which had been of linen. The robes
+beneath were much decayed, and only portions of them could be preserved.
+On the breast of the body, among the robes, a comb was found, answering
+exactly to that described by Reginald in 1104. Among the most
+interesting of the finds were a stole and maniple.
+
+  [3] Raine. S. Cuthbert.
+
+The stole is of very early date, and is of needlework in colours and
+gold. The centre design is a quatrefoil, inside which is a lamb with
+nimbus, and the letters AGNV DI. On either side are figures of Old
+Testament prophets, with their names. Near the ends the embroidery
+occurs on both sides of the stole, on the back of one of which among
+foliage is the inscription AELFFLAED FIERI PRECEPIT, which is continued
+on the back of the opposite end, thus--PIO EPISCOPO FRIDESTANO. The
+translation of this inscription is to the effect that Aelfled commanded
+the stole to be made for the pious Bishop Frithestan. The maniple is of
+a similar character, and also bears ornament, figures, and
+inscriptions.[4] Frithestan was made Bishop of Winchester in 905.
+Aelfled, who was Queen of Eadward, the son and successor of Alfred, died
+in 916. It was therefore during these ten years that she caused this
+stole and maniple to be made for the Bishop Frithestan. It is recorded
+that the son and successor of Eadward, by name Athelstan, when on a
+journey in the north visited Chester-le-Street and the shrine of S.
+Cuthbert, which was then at that place. Among other presents he left as
+offerings a stole and maniple, and a girdle and two bracelets of gold.
+It is a curious fact that a girdle and two gold bracelets were found
+along with the stole and maniple in the grave, in 1827, and leaves very
+little doubt that they are the ones mentioned above. The bones of the
+saint were quite intact, and none were missing. They were, with the
+other relics, placed in a new coffin, and the grave re-covered. Some
+portions of the inner coffin, with the stole, two maniples, the girdle
+and bracelets and fragments of the robes are now carefully preserved in
+the Dean and Chapter Library. A large gold cross found among the robes,
+decorated with garnets, and of workmanship of the time of S. Cuthbert is
+also preserved in the library. These discoveries seem to speak for
+themselves, and to leave very little room for doubt that the body
+exhumed and examined in 1827 was really that of the patron saint of the
+church.
+
+  [4] Photographs, coloured by the late J.I. Williamson, are
+      exhibited in the South Kensington Museum.
+
+There were also found in the grave bones of infants, supposed to be
+relics of the Holy Innocents, and a skull, most probably that of S.
+Oswald, which was known to have been placed in the coffin of S.
+Cuthbert.
+
+Two smooth grooves may be observed on the platform, which are _said_ to
+have been worn into the stone by the knees or feet of generations of
+pilgrims visiting the shrine.
+
+There are several other tombs and monuments in this chapel, chiefly wall
+tablets of not exceptional interest. At the north end, however, is a
+colossal statue of the last of the prince bishops, Bishop van Mildert,
+who died in 1836. The monument is of white marble, the figure seated on
+a throne and holding a book. It was erected by public subscription, the
+sculptor being John Gibson, R.A. Near this monument is a blue slab
+covering the remains of Bishop Anthony Bek, patriarch of Jerusalem, who
+died in 1310. It was to bring in the body of this bishop that some
+writers have thought the north doorway of the Nine Altars Chapel was
+constructed. This is, as we have seen already, extremely improbable.
+
+The student of architecture will find very much to interest him in this
+Chapel of the Nine Altars. The beautiful sculpture and variety in the
+capitals of the shafts of wall arcading, not to mention the rich carving
+of the vaulting bosses and capitals of the vaulting shafts, will well
+repay his earnest study.
+
+[Illustration: The Galilee Chapel.]
+
+[Illustration: The Galilee Chapel.]
+
+[Illustration: Capital in Galilee Chapel.]
+
+The #Galilee# or #Lady Chapel# is situated at the west end of the
+nave. It is well known that for some reason women were not allowed to
+enter any church where S. Cuthbert's shrine stood, nor even any church
+dedicated to him. At Lindisfarne a separate church was provided for
+them, and at Durham the Galilee Chapel was added for the same purpose.
+It was alleged that S. Cuthbert himself had made this rule, but there is
+no proof that he ever issued such a command. The Venerable Bede makes
+no mention of any special feeling of antipathy to women on the part of
+the saint. Bede was contemporary with, and survived S. Cuthbert
+forty-eight years. Whatever may have been the origin of the practice, it
+is certain that in later times women were jealously excluded from the
+churches of S. Cuthbert, and to this circumstance we owe, in the chapel
+under our consideration, the most beautiful and perfect example of
+Transitional Norman architecture existing in England.
+
+[Illustration: Paintings in the Galilee Chapel.]
+
+Let us recall briefly the circumstances attending its erection. Hugh
+Pudsey, who occupied the episcopal throne, 1153 to 1195, commenced to
+build a Lady Chapel at the east end of the church. The work had not gone
+far before accidents happened, and cracks and fissures appeared in the
+walls, which the builder thought "gave manifest indication that it was
+not acceptable to God and His servant S. Cuthbert."[5] The work was
+therefore abandoned, and another chapel was commenced at the west end of
+the church, "into which women might lawfully enter, so that they who had
+not bodily access to the secret things of the holy place, might have
+some solace from the contemplation of them" (Geoffrey de Coldingham).
+Pudsey caused to be moved here the marble shafts and bases he had
+previously brought from "beyond the sea," and intended to be used in the
+construction of his chapel at the east end. Entering the chapel by the
+steps leading from the Norman nave, the visitor is at once impressed
+with the lightness and delicacy of the work before him, as compared with
+the massive grandeur of the Norman cathedral behind. Here we have, in
+fact, one of the latest uses of the round arch influenced by the rapidly
+developing Early English Gothic. In plan the chapel consists of a nave
+with double aisles, which perhaps might be more properly called five
+aisles. These are divided by arcades, each of which is of four bays.
+These arches and the columns which support them are the chief beauty and
+characteristic of the chapel. The arches are semi-circular, of one
+order, with three lines of chevron, one on each face, and one on the
+soffit between two roll mouldings. The capitals are light and graceful
+and carved with a volute, and the columns clusters of marble and
+freestone shafts. The arches, however, rest on the marble columns, which
+are, no doubt, those previously alluded to. The whole seems to have been
+coloured in fresco, and remains of this are still to be seen. The stone
+shafts, which alternate with those of marble, do not carry any of the
+weight of the arch, and are, undoubtedly, an addition, probably in the
+time of Cardinal Langley, when they must have been added, with a view
+to improving the appearance. The dimensions of the chapel are
+forty-seven feet from east to west, and seventy-six feet from north to
+south. The existing roof and the three perpendicular windows on the west
+end are also additions by Cardinal Langley. On the walls above what were
+once the altars of the Virgin and Our Lady of Pity, remains of fresco
+painting may be noticed, all that remains of what has evidently been
+beautiful work. These were only brought to light by the removal of
+successive coats of whitewash with which they had been covered.
+
+  [5] Geoffrey de Coldingham.
+
+[Illustration: Detail of the Galilee Chapel.]
+
+When the Galilee was erected, access from the church was by the great
+west door of the cathedral. This was, however, closed up by Cardinal
+Langley, who constructed the two doorways at the end of the aisles by
+which the chapel is now entered. Those portions of the Norman wall
+arcading, which had to be removed by reason of the breaking through of
+the new doorways, were used to fill up the lower part of the great west
+door. The latter was again removed in 1846, when the west doorway was
+re-opened. Langley's two doorways have four centred arches enclosed
+beneath a square label moulding, with shields bearing the Cardinal's
+coat-of-arms in each spandrel. To Langley also may be attributed the
+five massive buttresses on the exterior of the western wall of the
+chapel, which partly cover the arcading and panelling with which it was
+decorated. In adding the new roof Langley raised the walls above the
+arches to carry it, giving a somewhat peculiar effect to the interior.
+The original roof lines can still be made out on the west wall. Of the
+contents of the chapel remaining, perhaps the most interesting to the
+visitor is the grave and site of the shrine of the Venerable Bede. The
+shrine, like that of S. Cuthbert's, is gone, and all that remains is the
+stone slab on which it once stood, and which bears the inscription
+(placed there in 1831):
+
+    Hac sunt in Fossa
+    Baedae Venerabilis Ossa
+
+This remarkable man was contemporary with S. Cuthbert, whom, as we have
+said, he survived forty-eight years. His holiness and piety, together
+with his great learning, earned for him the title Venerable, and after
+his death, in 735, his bones were enshrined. Of his parentage we know
+nothing, except that, from his own writings, he was born in the
+territory of the Abbey of Wearmouth. At the age of seven he was being
+educated in that monastery, and by the time he was ten years old he
+moved to the newly-founded Abbey on the Tyne, at Jarrow. He had able and
+learned teachers in Benedict Bishop and Ceolfrid, and appears to have
+turned his advantages to the best account. Deacon at nineteen, and
+priest at twenty-nine years of age, he led a holy and studious life.
+After his ordination he wrote his "Commentaries on the Scriptures," and
+writings on all the known sciences--geography, arithmetic, and
+astronomy. The greatest work of his life is, however, his
+"Ecclesiastical History of the English Nation," to which we owe all our
+knowledge of the introduction of Christianity into Great Britain, and
+the early history of the English Church. It is dedicated to King
+Ceolwulf. His information was collected from various sources--by letter
+as to Canterbury, by communication with bishops and priors as to England
+generally, and from personal knowledge and very recent tradition as to
+Northumbria. He lived most of his long life between the monasteries of
+Monkwearmouth and Jarrow, and was buried at the latter. In the year 1022
+his remains were secretly removed from Jarrow by Elfrid, who was the
+most unscrupulous relic-hunter of that time, who deposited a portion of
+them in the same coffin with those of S. Cuthbert. From here they were
+removed by Bishop Pudsey, and placed in the newly-erected Galilee
+Chapel, where he caused them to be enclosed in a magnificent shrine.
+"There, in a silver casket gilt with gold, hee laid the bones of
+Venerable Bede, and erected a costly and magnificent shrine over it."[6]
+When the shrine was destroyed at the suppression of the monastery, in
+1542, the bones were interred beneath the place it occupied, where they
+remained undisturbed till the year 1831. In that year they were exhumed
+and examined, and, after being enclosed in a lead-lined coffin, were
+replaced in the tomb, with a parchment giving full details of the
+exhumation. Some coins and a ring which were found at this time are
+preserved in the Dean and Chapter Library. The inscription previously
+quoted was then cut on the upper slab of the tomb.
+
+  [6] "Rites of Durham."
+
+In the Galilee Chapel is also the tomb of its restorer, Cardinal
+Langley, which was erected by himself in front of the principal altar.
+On its head may be seen three shields bearing the arms of the cardinal.
+
+Four of the western windows of the chapel originally contained beautiful
+stained glass, a most careful description of which may be found in the
+"Rites of Durham."
+
+Why this chapel has always been known as the "Galilee" Chapel has been
+the subject of much discussion and conjecture, and is still a matter of
+uncertainty. That it was erected for a Lady Chapel there can, however,
+be no doubt. In the nave of the church, between the piers immediately to
+the west of the north and south doorways, the visitor will notice a
+dark-coloured marble cross, beyond which no woman was allowed to pass
+eastward.
+
+#Monuments in the Nave and Transepts.#--The church of Durham is not
+rich in tombs and monuments to the dead. This is to be accounted for
+partly by the fact that for some centuries the Bishops of the diocese
+were interred in the chapter-house, and even most of these tombs have
+been lost or destroyed. Another reason for the scarcity of monuments is
+that no layman was allowed to be buried in the church until 1367, when
+Lord Ralph Neville obtained that distinction for himself and his wife,
+the Lady Alice de Neville, who was buried in 1374. This monument
+occupies the third sub-bay from the east, on the south side of the nave.
+It is an altar tomb, and though it has suffered severely from mutilation
+during the unsettled times of the Reformation, sufficient remains to
+enable us to see that it was once a well-designed and noble monument.
+Its mouldings are bold, and there are indications of the places where
+figures were once attached to the sides. The recumbent effigies of the
+noble lord and his wife, on the top of the tomb, are, however,
+hopelessly smashed. It is probable that Lord Ralph Neville obtained this
+honour for himself through his services and victory at the Battle of
+Neville's Cross, near Durham, in 1346. In the next bay westward is the
+tomb of Lord John Neville, who died in 1386. This is also an altar tomb,
+and has suffered severely, though it remains in a better state of
+preservation than the one just described. Its sides each have six
+niches, with elaborately ornamented canopies, and containing figures,
+while the ends have three similar niches with figures. The carving of
+the canopies is exceedingly beautiful. Between each of the niches are
+two square panels with trefoiled heads, each panel bearing a shield with
+the arms of Neville and Percy. Both above and below the niches much
+delicate carving may be noticed. Surmounting all are the broken effigies
+of Lord John and his wife, who was the daughter of Lord Henry Percy, the
+well-known Hotspur. All the figures on this tomb, including the
+recumbent figures, are headless, but sufficient remains to show that
+they were of great excellence. Remains of colouring and gilding can also
+be distinguished in places on the monument.
+
+Close to this is the slab and matrix of a brass to Robert Neville, who
+was bishop of the diocese from 1438 to 1457. The brass has all been
+removed, but the matrix shows a dignified figure of the bishop holding a
+crozier and a scroll, while an inscription formerly existed on a plate
+at his feet. Bishop Neville was known for his generous qualities, as
+well as for his high descent.
+
+In the western wall, on its south side, near to the entrance to the
+Galilee, is a mural tablet to a former Prebendary in the cathedral, and
+a well-known antiquary, Sir George Wheler, who died in the latter part
+of the seventeenth century. On the northern side is a slab to the
+memory of Captain R.M. Hunter, who was killed while charging a Sikh
+battery at Ferozeshah.
+
+Opposite to the monument of Ralph Neville is a modern altar tomb to a
+former headmaster of Durham Grammar School, the Rev. James Britton,
+D.D., erected by his pupils. It is surmounted by a reclining figure of
+Dr. Britton, in academic robes, reading a book.
+
+In the south transept is a fine monument, by Chantrey, to the memory of
+Bishop Barrington, who held the see from 1791 to 1826, dying at the
+advanced age of 92 years, beloved by all. He was a great prelate, and
+used his immense powers as Prince Palatine with great wisdom. The
+kneeling figure, with bowed head, the left hand resting on a book, in an
+attitude of deep reverence, is worthy of the name of its sculptor. On
+the west wall of the same transept is a tablet to the memory of the
+officers, non-commissioned officers, and privates of the Durham Light
+Infantry who were slain or died during the Crimean War.
+
+Near to this is a recently inserted brass to the memory of the officers
+and men of the 2nd Durham Regiment who died in Egypt and the Soudan.
+
+In the north transept we may give some attention to a monument to the
+Rev. John Carr, a former headmaster of Durham School. It was erected to
+his memory by his pupils. The monument was designed by Rickman, and is
+in the style known as Decorated Gothic.
+
+[Illustration: The Font and Cover.]
+
+The #Font# stands at the west end of the nave. It is a comparatively
+modern work, covered by a tall wooden canopy which was erected by Bishop
+Cosin in 1663. The original Norman font was destroyed by the Scottish
+prisoners in 1650, and was replaced by a large marble basin by Bishop
+Cosin. This font, in its turn, was removed to Pittington Church, where
+it is now in use, its place being filled by the present modern one. It
+is designed in the Norman style, and is square, supported on short
+columns. The sides are carved with medallions, copied from illuminated
+MSS., which represent scenes from the life of S. Cuthbert. The cover
+deserves attention as a specimen of the woodwork of the seventeenth
+century, exhibiting a curious and characteristic mixture of Classic and
+Gothic forms and details.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+HISTORY OF THE SEE
+
+
+The earlier history of the see of Durham has already been referred to in
+order to lead up to the founding of the cathedral. We have seen how the
+bishop and monks of Lindisfarne fled and wandered with the relics of
+their beloved S. Cuthbert, eventually settling at Chester-le-Street,
+until, in the year 990, Bishop Aldhun, in terror of the Danes, again
+fled southward to Ripon. The country at this time was ruled by that weak
+monarch, Ethelred the Unready, and the Danes, finding no determined
+opposition, continually made piratical incursions, and eventually,
+through the treachery of three chieftains, the Castle of Bamburgh fell
+into their hands. After an interval of three or four months peace was
+made with the invaders, and Aldhun and his monks ventured to return
+towards Chester-le-Street. It was during this journey, at a place called
+Wredelau, that the car carrying the saint stuck fast, and the incidents
+previously related occurred, which led to the founding of the Bishopric
+of Durham.
+
+#Aldhun# may therefore be called the first Bishop of Durham. He held
+the see for twenty-nine years, and died in 1018. Aldhun it was who built
+the first or White Church, now destroyed. It is extremely probable that
+some of the stones of this church were used in the foundations of
+Carileph's choir and apses.
+
+After Aldhun's death the see remained vacant for three years, when he
+was succeeded by
+
+#Edmund# (1020-1040). It is said that the monks could not agree as to
+who should succeed Aldhun, when one day Edmund, a presbyter, asked in a
+joke, "Why not appoint me?" Being a pious and a faithful man, they took
+him at his word, and, after much persuasion and fasting and prayer, he
+was consecrated. The choice was a good one. Edmund was an energetic and
+beloved prelate. He died at Gloucester in 1041. One of the most
+important events during his episcopate was the invasion of Northumbria
+by Duncan, King of the Scots. He besieged Durham, but was beaten off,
+with great slaughter, and the heads of many of his men were exposed in
+the market-place.
+
+#Egelric# (1042-1056) was the next bishop. He was an alien, and made
+himself obnoxious to the clergy and people. With the intention of
+rebuilding, he pulled down the wooden church at Chester-le-Street, which
+had been the seat of the bishopric for one hundred and thirteen years. A
+large quantity of treasure was found while digging foundations, and this
+Egelric appropriated and sent to his monastery at Peterborough, where he
+soon followed it. Before resigning the see of Durham, however, he
+secured the appointment of his brother to the bishopric. Some years
+later William the Conqueror called him to account for his behaviour in
+the matter of the treasure, and threw him into prison at Westminster,
+where he died in 1072.
+
+#Egelwin# (1056-1071) succeeded, through the influence of his
+brother. He took part in the rebellion of Eadwin and Morcar, and, like
+his predecessor, died in prison. He was the last of the Saxon bishops.
+
+#Walcher# (1071-1080). William I. found the Church in great disorder
+and made many changes. He filled most of the sees by the appointment of
+Norman bishops. To Durham he elected Walcher. The latter was a man of
+gentle disposition, but his chaplain, Leobwin, and Gilbert, a kinsman of
+his own, to whom he entrusted most of his affairs, were hated by the
+people, over whom they exercised great tyranny. At length a noble, named
+Lyulph, ventured to remonstrate with them, and in their rage they had
+him assassinated. The people were furious, and the bishop vainly denied
+any knowledge of the deed. He called a meeting at Gateshead. Here a
+tremendous tumult arose, the mob crying, "Good rede, short rede, slay ye
+the bishop," and eventually setting fire to the church. The bishop was
+eventually reduced to a choice of facing the mob or being burnt in the
+church. He chose the former, and, covering his face with his robe, went
+out. He was immediately slain on the threshold, and dreadfully
+mutilated. His body was removed by the monks to Jarrow, and afterwards
+to Durham, where he was buried.
+
+#William of S. Carileph# (1080-1096) was next appointed bishop. He
+was a man of great attainments. To him we owe the founding of the
+present cathedral. Carileph also made an important change, by the
+removal from Durham of the secular clergy, and their replacement by
+Benedictine monks drawn from Jarrow and Monkwearmouth. The foundations
+of the new church were laid on 29th July 1093, the Bishop and Prior
+Turgot being present. He did not live to see it very far advanced, being
+taken ill at Windsor. He died about Christmas 1096.
+
+#Ranulph Flambard# (1099-1128).--The see was kept vacant for three
+years by William Rufus, when he appointed Flambard, a great builder. He
+built the nave and aisles, the west doorway and lower part of the
+western towers, and vaulted the aisles. He also built Framwellgate
+Bridge over the Wear at Durham, erected and endowed S. Giles' Church,
+Durham, and was the founder of Norham Castle on the Tweed.
+
+#Galfrid Rufus# (1133-1140) was his successor. His episcopate was
+much disturbed by wars with the Scots. The chapter-house was finished
+during his time of office.
+
+#William de S. Barbara# (1143-1152) was next appointed. Extraordinary
+events marked his election. William Cumin, chancellor of the Scottish
+king, attempted to take the bishopric for himself, and succeeded so far
+as to capture the castle with the aid of the Scots. The rightful bishop
+was not able to gain possession for sixteen months after his election.
+Cumin submitted in 1144.
+
+[Illustration: The Crypt.]
+
+#Hugh Pudsey# (1153-1195) now succeeded to the bishopric at the age
+of twenty-five. He bought for life the earldom of Northumberland and the
+manor of Sadberg. In 1187 the news of the capture of Jerusalem by the
+Saracens spread consternation in the Church, and Pudsey prepared to
+accompany King Henry to the East. He fitted out ships and galleys in a
+most sumptuous manner, his own having a seat for himself of solid
+silver. Neither he nor King Henry embarked in the crusade, however. The
+king died, and Richard his son undertook the expedition, leaving Bishop
+Pudsey and Longchamp, Bishop of Ely, as justiciaries for the northern
+and southern portions of the kingdom respectively. These two
+quarrelled, and Pudsey was decoyed to London by Longchamp, and committed
+to the Tower. He soon obtained his release, but was compelled to resign
+the earldom of Northumberland. In 1195 he undertook a journey to London
+to see the king, and endeavour to obtain restitution of his honours and
+possessions, but was taken ill, and died on the way, at Howden. His work
+in the cathedral we have seen. He also built the great hall of the
+castle, most of the beautiful Church of S. Cuthbert at Darlington, and
+the Elvet Bridge over the Wear at Durham, and founded the hospital at
+Sherburn, near Durham. Darlington Church, which would well repay a
+visit, is a fine specimen of Early Pointed architecture, second only to
+the Galilee of Durham, the two showing in a wonderful manner the rapid
+development of the change which was taking place in architectural style
+during Pudsey's time.
+
+#Philip de Pictavia# (1197-1208), elected at the urgent request of
+the king. He was continually at loggerheads with his clergy. He
+supported King John against the Pope, and was for this excommunicated;
+died in 1208, and was buried in unconsecrated ground. This bishop is
+said to have had the permission of the king to coin money at Durham.
+
+#Richard de Marisco# (1217-1226) was elected after an interval of
+nearly ten years. The feud with the monks continued during his
+episcopate, and the bishop swore the Church of Durham should have no
+peace while he lived; threatened that if a monk should show himself
+beyond his cloister he should lose his head; and once, when his servants
+had beaten a monk, and the man complained, he replied that it was a pity
+they did not kill him. He died at Peterborough in 1226.
+
+#Richard le Poore# (1229-1237), who was the next bishop, elected
+after the see had been vacant two years and four months, was translated
+from Salisbury, where he had commenced building the new cathedral. He
+ended the dispute between the monks and the Bishop of Durham by an
+agreement known as "Le Convenit."
+
+#Nicholas de Farnham# (1241-1248) became bishop after a three years'
+dispute with the king. He resigned in 1248.
+
+#Walter de Kirkham# (1249-1260), Dean of York, was next elected.
+
+#Robert de Stitchill# (1261-1274), Prior of Finchale, succeeded him.
+Dissensions again arose between the bishop and the monks. He died on his
+return from France, where he had attended a council at Lyons. He was
+buried in a monastery in France, but his heart was brought to Durham,
+and buried in the chapter-house.
+
+#Robert de Insula# (1274-1283), a native of Holy Island, as his name
+suggests, was then elected bishop. His tenure of office was peaceful.
+
+[Illustration: Stone Coffin Lid.]
+
+#Anthony Bek# (1283-1310). The next bishop was of noble birth, the
+son of Walter Bek, Baron of Eresby, in Lincolnshire. He took part with
+Edward I. in his expedition to Scotland, and, being very wealthy, was of
+great assistance to the king. His following consisted of twenty-six
+standard bearers, one hundred and forty knights, and an army of five
+thousand foot and five hundred horse. He was employed by the king, with
+success, in many important State matters. In the year 1300 trouble again
+arose with the monks. Some of them being dissatisfied with the Prior
+Hotoun, the bishop proposed to hold a visitation. The prior refusing to
+admit him unless he came unattended, the bishop deposed and
+excommunicated him. The convent took sides, some with the bishop and
+some with the prior, and it was only on the interference of the king
+that a partial peace was restored. The quarrel soon reopened. Some men
+made a complaint against the bishop. He had compelled them to take arms
+under him in the Scottish war, and had imprisoned some who had returned
+without leave. The barons upheld the men, and it led to them taking
+sides with Prior Hotoun in his dispute. The bishop, calling the monks
+together, ordered them to elect a new prior, which they promptly refused
+to do. On this the bishop appointed Henry de Luceby of Holy Island to be
+prior of Durham, and brought men from Weardale and Tynedale to expel the
+old prior. They laid siege to the convent, and for three days Prior
+Hotoun and forty-six monks were shut up with only six loaves and sixteen
+herrings. They continued the services however. On the third day a
+Tynedale man was sent to pull the prior out of his stall, but was so
+awed by his venerable appearance that he dared not touch him. A monk on
+the bishop's side, however, did the work. Prior Luceby was installed,
+and Prior Richard seized and imprisoned. He soon escaped, however, and
+carried his complaint before Parliament, and afterwards to the Pope,
+Boniface VIII. The Pope decided in his favour, and Hotoun returned to
+Durham, and Luceby and his friends were obliged to go, though they
+tried, when doing so, to carry off some silver plate and other
+valuables. Bek continued in great splendour until his death in 1310.
+When he died he was king of the Isle of Man, Patriarch of Jerusalem,
+Bishop of Durham, and Prince Palatine.
+
+#Richard de Kellaw# (1311-1316), formerly a monk of Durham, succeeded
+Bek. He was a good and learned man, and lived in harmony with the monks.
+
+#Louis de Beaumont# (1318-1333) was next appointed bishop, after
+great competition and intrigue. He was chosen in opposition to the
+wishes of the chapter, who had elected Stamford, Prior of Finchale, to
+succeed Kellaw. On his way to Durham for consecration and enthronement,
+accompanied by two cardinals and a large retinue, he was waylaid at
+Rushyford by a band of ruffians under Gilbert Middleton. They plundered
+the cardinals, but carried the bishop a prisoner to Mitford Castle. His
+release was only secured on payment by the monastery of a heavy ransom.
+He was an ignorant man, and so innocent of Latin that he could not read
+his profession of obedience, being continually prompted. Later, at an
+ordination, he stumbled over the words "_in oenigmate_" and cried in
+French, "_Par Seynt Lewis, il ne fuit pas curtays qui cest parole ici
+escrit._" "By Saint Lewis he was no gentleman who wrote this word."
+
+#Richard de Bury# (1333-1345), who succeeded, was a great scholar,
+tutor to Edward III., and author of "Philobiblon," a book still extant.
+He was a good man, and very kind to the poor.
+
+#Thomas de Hatfield# (1345-1381) was, like Bishop Bek, a warrior
+ecclesiastic. Soon after his election he led eighty archers to the siege
+of Calais. His episcopate was notable for the wars with the Scots, and
+the great victory obtained over them, with the capture of King David and
+many nobles, at Neville's Cross, near Durham. Fifteen thousand Scots
+were slain. The victory was attributed to the presence of the sacred
+banner of S. Cuthbert, which Prior John Fossor took to a place near the
+battlefield, kneeling in prayer the while for success. A hymn of
+thanksgiving was appointed to be sung on the top of the cathedral tower
+on each anniversary of the battle. This custom is still carried out,
+though the day has been changed to the twenty-ninth of May. Hatfield was
+a liberal supporter of Durham College at Oxford. He erected his own tomb
+in the choir of the cathedral, in which he was afterwards buried.
+
+#John Fordham# (1381-1388), secretary to Richard II., and Canon of
+York, was next elected. Suspected of giving bad advice to the king, he
+was compelled to resign, but was given the inferior bishopric of Ely,
+where he lived to extreme old age, dying in 1425.
+
+#Walter de Skirlaw# (1388-1405), translated from Bath and Wells, was
+a munificent prelate. He built bridges at Shincliffe, Bishop Auckland,
+and Yarm; a refuge tower, a beautiful chapter-house (now in ruins) at
+Howden; and was a large contributor to the expense of building the
+central tower of York Cathedral. His work in the building of the
+cloisters of Durham has already been referred to.
+
+#Thomas Langley# (1406-1437) succeeded. He was Chancellor of England,
+Dean of York, and in 1411 was made a cardinal. He occupied the see
+during part of the reign of Henry IV., the whole of that of Henry V.,
+and fifteen years of that of Henry VI. He founded two schools on the
+Palace Green at Durham, and in his will left collections of books to
+many colleges.
+
+#Robert Neville# (1437-1457), son of the Earl of Westmoreland and his
+wife Joan, who was a daughter of John of Gaunt. He was therefore uncle
+of the Earl of Warwick, the "king-maker" of Richard III. and of Edward
+IV. He had a peaceful episcopate of nineteen years, and was buried in
+the cathedral, in the south aisle near his ancestors.
+
+#Laurance Booth# (1457-1476), Canon of York and Lichfield, Archdeacon
+of Richmond, and Dean of S. Paul's, was the next bishop. He was a
+supporter of the House of Lancaster. He was translated to the
+archbishopric of York in 1476, the first of the bishops of Durham who
+was raised to that dignity.
+
+#William Dudley# (1476-1483), Dean of Windsor, succeeded him.
+
+#John Sherwood# (1483-1494), who was appointed next, was a learned
+man, and made a large collection of Greek manuscripts. He died in Rome
+in 1494.
+
+#Richard Fox# (1494-1501) was translated from Bath and Wells after
+the see had remained vacant for eleven months. Nothing of particular
+moment occurred during his episcopate. He was an early patron and helper
+of Wolsey, and lived to regret having assisted him. He made alterations
+in the castle at Durham. He was translated to the see of Winchester in
+1501, and died in 1528.
+
+#William Sinews# or #Sever# (1502-1505), translated from Carlisle.
+He is said to have been the son of a sieve-maker at Shincliffe, near
+Durham.
+
+#Christopher Bainbridge# (1507-1508), Dean of York, was next elected,
+and after an episcopate of one year was translated to York. In 1511 he
+was sent to Rome as ambassador by Henry VIII., and while there was
+created cardinal. He died in Rome, poisoned by a servant whom he had
+struck in anger.
+
+#Thomas Ruthall# (1509-1522), Dean of Salisbury, was the next bishop.
+He was immensely wealthy, and his love of money brought him into
+disgrace. King Henry commanded him to draw up an account of the lands
+and revenues of the Crown. The bishop, in error, sent to the king the
+wrong book, in which was set forth an account of his own possessions.
+The king, though tampered with by Wolsey, made no use of the knowledge
+thus obtained. But the affair rankled in the mind of the bishop, and is
+said to have hastened his death.
+
+#Thomas Wolsey# (1522-1528) was appointed to succeed him. The famous
+cardinal held the see for six years, as well as that of York. During the
+whole of his episcopate he never visited Durham, and in 1528 he resigned
+it for the see of Winchester.
+
+#Cuthbert Tunstall# (1530-1559) was translated from London by a Papal
+Bull, the last used for this purpose. Tunstall was a remarkable man, and
+he occupied the see during an important period of Church history, the
+Reformation, all the stages of which he saw. During his episcopacy, the
+great privileges of the bishops of Durham as Princes Palatine were very
+much curtailed. In 1526, while Tunstall was Bishop of London, the
+English translation of the New Testament by Tyndall appeared, causing
+great alarm among the clergy. The part played by Tunstall in relation to
+this is well known. He opposed the supremacy of King Henry as head of
+the Church, but eventually gave up the struggle and preached in its
+favour. The monastery of Durham was suppressed in 1540, and a dean and
+twelve canons appointed. Soon after the accession of Edward VI., Bishop
+Tunstall was committed to the Tower and deprived of his see, on a charge
+of having encouraged rebellion in the north. On the accession of Mary to
+the throne he was released and restored, but there would seem to be no
+grounds for supposing that he took any part in the cruelties practised
+during her reign. When Elizabeth became queen, Tunstall refused to take
+the oath, and was again deprived of his see, and, being now an old man,
+was committed to the custody of his friend Archbishop Parker
+(Canterbury), with whom he lived till his death in 1559. He was a
+scholarly prelate, of a kindly nature, and was held in universal esteem.
+
+#James Pilkington# (1560-1575) left the buildings of the see in a
+ruinous condition.
+
+#Richard Barnes# (1575-1587), translated from Carlisle. He is said to
+have been removed to Durham in order to spy upon the correspondence and
+messengers of the unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots.
+
+#Matthew Hutton# (1589-1594), Dean of York, was the next bishop. A
+man of great learning, and considered one of the best preachers of his
+day. He was translated to York in 1594.
+
+#Tobias Matthew# (1595-1606), Dean of Durham, was his successor. He
+was also a great preacher, and was celebrated for his wit. He was
+translated to York.
+
+#William James# (1606-1617), Dean of Durham, was next elected.
+
+#Richard Neile# (1617-1627) was translated from Lincoln. He was
+remarkable as being the only bishop who held six sees successively--viz.
+1608, Rochester; 1610, Lichfield; 1613, Lincoln; 1617, Durham; 1627,
+Winchester; and 1631, Archbishop of York. He did much to help forward
+men of learning and ability by giving them preferment in his see, and
+reserving apartments for their use in Durham House, London, which became
+known as Durham College. He spent large sums of money on repairs to the
+buildings at Durham.
+
+#George Monteigne# (1628), Bishop of London, only held the see of
+Durham for three months, when he was translated to York.
+
+#John Howson# (1628-1631), Bishop of Oxford, held the see for two
+years, and died in 1631.
+
+#Thomas Morton# (1632-1659), translated from Lichfield. The North of
+England was much disturbed in 1640 by the invasion of the Scots, and
+Bishop Morton fled--first to Stockton, afterwards to York--and never
+returned to his diocese. The successful Scots levied heavy taxes on the
+district for the maintenance of their troops, as much as L850 a day
+being demanded. In 1646, Episcopacy was abolished, and the estates of
+the bishops ordered to be sold. Thus we find at Durham the castle sold
+to the Mayor of London for L1267 and Durham, Borough, and Framwellgate
+disposed of to the Corporation for L200. The bishop lived a life of
+suffering in London, cared for by his friends, till his death in 1659,
+at the age of ninety-four. During his episcopate, in 1656, Oliver
+Cromwell arranged for the founding of a college in Durham, but his death
+prevented him carrying out his scheme. His son, however, did so, and it
+flourished until the Restoration, which, by giving back property to its
+rightful owners, put an end to its existence.
+
+#John Cosin# (1660-1671), Canon of Durham, was the first bishop after
+the Restoration. He was a most munificent prelate, leaving many
+charitable bequests. He spent large sums in the restoration of the
+cathedral and castle and the palace at Bishop Auckland. He built a
+hospital for eight poor people, and erected a library on the palace
+green.
+
+#Nathaniel Crewe# (1642-1722), translated from Oxford. He was a
+strong supporter of King James II., but afterwards took the oath of
+allegiance to William and Mary. He was noted for his charity and
+munificence, and left large sums to the poor, and in scholarships
+tenable by natives of Durham.
+
+#William Talbot# (1722-1730), translated from Salisbury.
+
+#Edward Chandler# (1730-1750), Bishop of Lichfield, was next elected.
+He gave L2000 to be laid out for the benefit of the widows of clergymen
+of his diocese.
+
+#Joseph Butler# (1750-1752) was translated from Bristol. He is best
+known as the author of "The Analogy of Religion, Natural and Revealed."
+
+#Richard Trevor# (1752-1771), Bishop of S. David's, a learned, pious,
+and unostentatious man. He left L200 in his will to the poor of Durham
+and Auckland.
+
+#John Egerton# (1771-1787), Bishop of Lichfield, was next elected. He
+married the daughter of Henry, Duke of Kent, and his eldest son
+afterwards became Earl of Bridgewater.
+
+#Thomas Thurlow# (1787-1791) was translated to Durham from Lincoln.
+He was brother of the Lord Chancellor.
+
+#Shute Barrington# (1791-1826) was the next bishop, having previously
+held the sees of Llandaff and Salisbury. A most beneficent prelate; his
+charities, especially those for the founding of schools and augmentation
+of poor livings, were magnificent. During his episcopacy, external
+repairs to the cathedral having become absolutely necessary, James
+Wyatt, who had already done such mischief at Salisbury, was given charge
+of the work. Then it was that the paring process, spoken of previously,
+was completed, the chapter-house destroyed, and the Galilee Chapel only
+saved from destruction by the intervention of Dean Cornwallis. Wyatt's
+other wild schemes, to extend the choir eastwards, to the utter ruin of
+the Nine Altar Chapel, to remove the beautiful Neville screen, and
+surmount the central tower of the church by a spire, were happily
+checked in time, or there is no saying to what extent the building would
+have been mutilated. Bishop Barrington died in London, in his
+ninety-third year.
+
+#William Van Mildert# (1826-1836), Bishop of Llandaff, succeeded to
+the see. During his episcopate, many important changes were made. The
+Ecclesiastical Commission, appointed in 1833, to consider in what manner
+the funds of the Church might be made more available for the purposes
+for which they were intended, decided to give future bishops a fixed
+yearly payment, and to reduce the number of canons from twelve to six.
+On the appointment of a new bishop, the Palatinate was to be annexed by
+the State. Thus Van Mildert was the last Count Palatine. Before these
+changes came into force, however, the bishop and the dean and chapter
+founded and endowed the university out of the revenues of the see, for
+the use of which the bishop gave up the castle. Bishop Van Mildert was a
+man of great charity, and though his income was immense, he died
+comparatively poor. He died in February 1836, and was interred in the
+chapel of the Nine Altars.
+
+#Edward Maltby# (1836-1856), his successor, was translated from
+Chichester, and held the see for twenty years, when, owing to advanced
+age and increasing infirmity, he resigned in 1856.
+
+#Charles Thomas Longley# (1856-1860), first Bishop of Ripon, was next
+elected. He was a popular and much-beloved prelate. In 1860 he was
+created Archbishop of York, and two years later was translated to
+Canterbury.
+
+#Hon. Henry Montague Villiers# (1860-1861) was translated from
+Carlisle. A fine preacher, his episcopate was all too short. He died,
+after much suffering, in 1861.
+
+#Charles Baring# (1861-1878), Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol,
+succeeded him. A man of unbounded charity and goodness, he won the
+affection of all who knew him personally. He was compelled, through
+illness, to resign the see in 1878, and did not long survive his
+retirement.
+
+#Joseph Barber Lightfoot# (1879-1889) was then elected to the see. A
+man of scholarly attainments, he is still too well known and remembered
+to need any detailed note. He came to Durham pledged to accomplish as
+soon as possible the division of the diocese, which promise he carried
+out by restoring the suppressed see of Hexham to Newcastle-on-Tyne. A
+fine tomb to the memory of Dr Lightfoot has been placed on the north
+side of the choir of the cathedral, and as a memorial of his episcopate
+the mutilated chapter-house has been restored.
+
+The present bishop is the #Right Rev. Brooke Foss Westcott, D.D.#
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+In this place may conveniently be given the rough draft of the
+settlement of the see by King Henry VIII. at the Reformation. Although
+departed from in many instances, it throws a curious light on the king's
+intentions to keep up some semblance of a conventual institution with an
+active educational purpose.
+
+
+                              DURESME.
+
+                         [Fol. 30.] Duresme \
+                                cum Cellis. /
+
+First a provoste of the College                                    cc li.
+Item xii prebendaryes and the moste parte of theym preachers vi
+  of them 1 markes and vi of them xxvi li. xiii s. iiii d. by the
+  yere                                                          ccclx li.
+Item a Reader of humanytie in greke by the yere                    xx li.
+Item a Reader of dyvynytie in hebrewe by the yere                  xx li.
+Item a Reader bothe of devynytie and humanytie by the yere         xx li.
+Item a Reader of physyke                                           xx li.
+Item lx scollers to be tawghte both gramer and logyke in hebrewe
+  greke and lattyn every of them by the yere iii li. vi s. viii d. cc li.
+Item xx studyentes in dyvynytie to be founde x att Oxenford, and
+  x att Cambryge every of them by the yere x li.                   cc li.
+Item a Scolmaster for the same Scollers                            xx li.
+Item an ussher                                                      x li.
+Item viii petycanons to synge and serve in the quere every of them
+  x li. by the yere                                            xxiiii li.
+Item x laye men to synge and serve also in the quyre every of
+  them by yere vi li. xiii s. iiii d.           lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d.
+Item x Chorysters every of them by the yere fyve marks
+                                                 xxxiii li. vi s. viii d.
+Item a master of the Chylderne                                      x li.
+Item a Gospeller                                                   vi li.
+Item a pysteller                                                    v li.
+Item ii sextens                                    vi li. xiii s. iiii d.
+Item xii poore men beynge olde servynge men decayed by warres
+  or in the Kyng's servyce every of
+  them vi li. xiii s. iiii d. by yere            lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d.
+
+                           [Fol. 30. dors.]
+
+Item yearly to be distrybuted in almes to poore house-holders
+                                                 lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d.
+Item for yearly reparacions                      lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d.
+Item to be employed yerely in makynge and mendynge of
+  hyghewayes                                     lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d.
+Item to a Steward of the Landes                    vi li. xiii s. iiii d.
+Item to an Audytor                                                  x li.
+Item to ii porters to kepe the gates and shave the Company          x li.
+Item to one cheyf Butler for hys wages and dyete   iiii li. xiiis. iiiid.
+Item to an under Butler for hys wages and dyete       iii li. vis. viiid.
+Item one Cheyf Cooke for hys wages and dyete       iiii li. xiiis. iiiid.
+Item oone Under Coke for hys wages and dyete        iii li. vi s. viii d.
+Item for the provostes expences in receyvyng the Rentes and
+  surveyeng the landes by yere                                      x li.
+Item to a Cato^r to bye there dyetes for his wages and dyete and
+  makynge hys bockes of reconyngs by the yere        vi li. xiiis. iiiid.
+
+                             [Fol. 31.]
+
+                                              xx
+Duresme                                 M^lDCiiii viii^{li}  xi^s viii^d.
+                                             xx
+Porciones deductae                       M^lDiiii xiii^{li} xiii^s iiii^d.
+Reman'                                      lxxxxiiii^{li} xviii^s iii^d.
+
+                              [Fol. 32.]
+
+A proporcion for mayntenance of Hospitalite Lernynge Dyvine
+   Service Almes and other necessarie Expences in the Cathedrall
+   Churche of Duresme to be erectyd foundyd and establysshed
+   by the King's Majesties goodnes.
+
+                      xx
+            Sm^a M^lDCiiii viii^{li} xis. viii d.
+
+
+                              HOSPITALITE.
+
+       The dean cclxiii li. x s.--Prebend' xxxii li. vi s. viii d.
+                 Corpus of the deane and prebendaries.
+
+Fyrste for the Deane for the corpus of his promotion which he shall
+    certaynlye receyve and accordinge wherunto he shall paye the
+    tenthes and fyrst frutes                                       xl li.
+
+Item to twelve prebendaries iche of them for the corpus of his
+  promotion viii^{li} which he shall receyve certaynly by yere and
+  accordinge whereunto he shall paye the tenthes and fyrste    xx
+  fruytes                                                     iiii xvi li.
+
+                             Sm^a cxxxvi^{li}
+
+
+                              DISTRIBUTIONS.
+
+                                               | DCxxx li. xiii s. i d. |
+                                               +---------------------^--+
+Item to the deane for every daie of his residence to be payd by waie |
+  of Cotidiane distribucion out of the common possession xii s. v d. |
+  to be paid out of the same common possession which amountyth       |
+  in the yere                                 ccxxvi li. xii s. i d. |
+                                                                     |
+Item to eche prebendarye for every daie of his residence to be payd  |
+  by waie of Cotidiane distribucion out of the common possession     |
+  xvi^d ob. over and besydes iiii s. ix d. ob. to be payd to every   |
+  of the prebendaries out of the same common possession which        |
+  in the hole yere amountith to the twelve said prebendaries to      |
+  the Summe                                              ccciiii li.-^
+
+                            [Fol. 32 dors.]
+
+                               LEARNINGE.
+
+                                           | ccxxx li. vi s. viii d. |
+                                           +-------------------------+
+                                                | cciii^{li} xiii iiii. |
+                                                +--------------------^--+
+Item a reader in divinite for his yerely stypende to be paid of      |
+    the common possession                   xxvi li. xiii s. iiii d. |
+Item to twelve scolers to be found at the Universite off Oxforde     |
+    every of them ix li. xi s. viii d. by yere               cxv li. |
+Item to xviii scolers to be taught Gramer Greke and Latyn            |
+    every of them iiii li. by yere                         lxxii li. |
+Item to a scolemaster for the same scolars                     x li. |
+Item to an ussher for them                    vi li. xiii s. iiii d.-^
+
+
+                              DYVINE SERVICE.
+
+                                                            | ccci^{li} |
+                                                            +--------^--+
+Item to twelve petycanons eche of them x li. by yere for ther dyet   |
+    and wagys                                                cxx li. |
+Item to tenne laymen syngars eche of them to have yerely for their   |
+    dyet and wagys vi li. xiii s. iiii d.   lxvi li. xiii s. iiii d. |
+Item to tenne Choristers eche of them lxvi s. viii d.                |
+                                            xxiii li. vi. s. viii d. |
+Item for a master to the Children for his dyet and wagys      x. li. |
+Item to a Gospeller and Epistoler eche of them  vi li. xiiis. iiiid. |
+Item to twoo sextens                                         xii li. |
+Item to a Cator                               vi li. xiii s. iiii d. |
+Item to twoo buttellers                                      xii li. |
+Item to two Cookes                                           xii li. |
+Item to thre other commen servaantes as portor and ryngars eche of   |
+    them v li.                                                xv li.-^
+
+                                 [Fol. 33.]
+
+                                   ALMES.
+
+Item to eyght poore men eche of them yerely vi li. xiii. s. iiii d.   |
+                                               liii li. vi s. viii d. |
+Item to be yerely distributed in almes to householders                |
+                                              xvi li. xiii s. iiii d. |
+Item to be yerely spente in mendynge of hyghways               xx li.-^
+
+
+                            EXPENCES NECESSARIE.
+
+                                               xx
+                                            | ciiii iiii li. xv s. x d. |
+                                            +-------------------------^-+
+Item for yerely reparacions by Estymation.     cxxxi li. viii s. v d. |
+Item in exspences yerely in surveynge the landes and receyvinge       |
+    the Rentes                                                 xx li. |
+Item in expences for wyne and wax              xiii li. vi s. viii d. |
+Item to a Stewarde of landes for his fee                        x li. |
+Item to an Auditor                                              x li.-+
+
+                         xx                               xx
+Sum of the common M^lCCCiiii vi li. xiii s. xd. M^lCCCCiiiixvi^{li} xv d.
+Sum totall of all thies percels                 M^lDxxii^{li} xiii^s x^d.
+
+Above which chargys the church indewyd with landes to susteyne the
+same muste pay yerely tenthes and a certayne summe by composition for
+the fyrste frutes deducted and abbayted.
+  Cxxxvi li. payd by the deane and prebendaries severall.
+               cxl li. to be allowyd by statute for almes.
+               x li. for the stewarde allowyd by statute.
+               x li. for the Auditors fee allowyd by statute.
+                                                              xx
+The hole sume of deductions                                CCiiii xvi li.
+And so remaynes chargeable with tenthes and fyrst frutes
+                                               M^lCCxxvi li. xiii s. x d.
+
+[Illustration: The Chapter Library.]
+
+[Sidenote: ]
+
+                             [Fol. 33. dors.]
+                                                | ccxvi li. ix s. vi d. |
+                                                +---------------------^-+
+Whereof to be payd for the tenthes of the commen possession           |
+                                           cxliiii li. vi s. iiii d.  |
+Item a yerely Rent to be payd by composition for the fyrste frutes    |
+                                                lxxii li. xii s. iid.-^
+
+And so the Cathedrale Churche for mayntenance of the said yerely
+    charges and paymente touchinge hospitalite lernynge divine
+    service almes necessarie exspences tenthes and fyrst frutes
+    after the Rates before mentionyd must yf the said shall lyke
+    the Kings majestic be indewyd with yerely Revenues of the
+    summe of M^lDCCxxxix^{li} xiii s. iiii d.            MDCCxii li. x s.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+THE CASTLE AND UNIVERSITY
+
+
+No notice of Durham and its cathedral would seem complete without some
+mention being made of its fortress, the growth of which has been
+contemporary with, and, we might almost say, inseparable from that of
+the monastery itself.
+
+There can be little doubt that other than the miraculous considerations
+assigned to them by tradition influenced the monks and the congregation
+of S. Cuthbert in their final choice of a resting-place for the bones of
+their beloved saint. The almost impregnable position of the rocky
+promontory upon which both Cathedral and Castle stand suggests a careful
+selection on their part, with a view to the prevention of attack and
+consequent further disturbance of their sacred relics. What the first
+fortification was is a matter of doubt; most probably it was merely a
+wall or rampart of earth, with a large artificial mound at the weakest
+point. This seems to have been the usual practice at an early date at
+many other places in England, and in some cases their date is known and
+corresponds to the time at which Durham was probably first fortified.
+Whatever the earliest protections were, we know that in 1072 William the
+Conqueror, on his way from Scotland, passed through Durham. He quickly
+perceived the natural advantages and strength of the position, and gave
+orders for the erection of a castle. This was at once set about, during
+the episcopacy of Bishop Walcher, and continued under Carileph and
+Flambard. Of this building, which might be styled "The Conqueror's
+Castle," not much remains. The most important is the #Chapel# or
+Crypt, which belongs, no doubt, to the earlier part of the period named
+(1080 to 1096). In plan the chapel has a nave and two aisles. The roof
+is vaulted, the ribs being plain, semi-circular, and square recessed,
+and is supported by six circular columns. The capitals of these columns
+are a somewhat interesting feature, owing to their Lombardic character.
+The abaci are square and moulded, while the caps proper carry at their
+angles rudely carved volutes such as occur in the White Tower, London.
+Each capital is also carved differently with curious and rude devices.
+Of the three windows which terminated the nave and aisle at the east
+end, one has been destroyed to make way for a staircase and the other
+two are built up. The original windows of the chapel were very narrow
+and widely splayed. In the walls are an aumbrey and the remains of two
+altars.
+
+[Illustration: The Chapel or Crypt, Durham Castle.]
+
+Other remains of this date are somewhat scattered. Two windows in the
+undercroft of Bishop Bek's, or what is now known as #Bishop Hatfield's
+Hall#, are examples. They have converging jambs, the semi-circular
+heads being cut from one stone and the inside very widely splayed. The
+wall from the keep to the chapel, and that from the keep to the gateway
+are also Norman work, as are also portions of the gateway itself.
+
+The next important changes in the castle were made by Bishop Pudsey,
+1153-1195, who not only repaired the existing work but built a hall,
+known as #Pudsey's Hall#. Although this hall has now almost entirely
+disappeared, through repairs and alterations, sufficient evidence as to
+its whereabouts and general plan is forthcoming. It was of two storeys,
+the lower and upper halls. Entrance to the lower hall was originally
+gained by a staircase which led from the courtyard to the splendid
+doorway now enclosed in Tunstall's Gallery. This magnificent entrance
+having been covered with lath and plaster, and for long completely
+forgotten, was unearthed by, and at the expense of Bishop Barrington,
+early in the present century. It is in good preservation and is a
+splendid specimen of rich Norman architecture. It consists of five
+orders, all richly carved and moulded. Three orders rest on carved
+capitals and shafts, and two are carried down the jambs of the doorway.
+The stairway has entirely disappeared, but there is little room to doubt
+that it would be of much the same character as that in the close at
+Canterbury; and to the protection afforded by the staircase roof, we
+are, no doubt, indebted for the good preservation of the arch mouldings
+of the doorway itself.
+
+What was originally Pudsey's Upper Hall is now styled the #Norman
+Gallery#. The greater portion of this gallery is at the present time
+divided into chambers of residence for the students of the university.
+It is reached by the Black Staircase and a doorway in the Early English
+Gothic style. The interior of the south and west walls are enriched by
+arcades in groups of three, the central bay of each of which is larger
+than those flanking it, and is pierced by a window. The arches of the
+arcade rest on shafts and cushion capitals, and are carved with chevron
+ornament. The whole arrangement hereabouts bears the impress of having
+been a portion of one great building, which an examination of the roof,
+lead, and general outline makes even more certain.
+
+On the western side of the courtyard stands the great #Bek's Hall#,
+built by the bishop of that name. It is above the Norman undercroft,
+previously mentioned. Much of its original character is now lost, owing
+to restorations, curtailments, and alterations. Bek's doorway is still
+in existence, though much hidden by the porch erected later by Bishop
+Cosin. It has a pointed arch of two orders, with detached shafts in the
+jambs. Another original relic, unrestored, is part of the window nearest
+the fireplace, which is valuable as evidence of the date of the erection
+of the hall. The tracery is geometrical, and the shafts in the angles of
+the splays are banded. About the year 1350 Bishop Hatfield enlarged and
+altered Bek's hall. At the west end he inserted two light windows, which
+are now blocked, though the tracery may be seen from students' rooms
+inside, and partly from the outside. The open oak roof, with the
+exception of some necessary later repairs, is of Bishop Hatfield's time.
+Hatfield repaired and altered Pudsey's upper hall by the addition of
+east and west windows, and probably a new roof. He also rebuilt the
+#Keep#, which time and war had greatly injured. The existing keep,
+which was erected in 1840, is similar to Hatfield's, and in many places
+stands upon the old foundations. It is now used entirely as apartments
+for students of University College.
+
+Bishop Fox (1494-1501) is responsible for the next important changes. He
+curtailed the great hall by a partition wall near its south end, which
+still exists. The wall bears his badge in two places--a pelican feeding
+her young with blood from her breast. He also adapted part of Pudsey's
+buildings, near the south-west corner of the castle, to the purposes of
+a kitchen, erected three fireplaces, and windows, and the oak buttery
+hatch which opens from the kitchen, and which again has carved upon it
+"the pelican in her piety."
+
+Bishop Tunstall (1530-1558) built #Tunstall's Gallery#, which
+extends from the great hall to the clock tower. It is entered by Cosin's
+staircase (erected later) and by an eastern stair built by Tunstall
+himself. A curious feature of this stairway is a port-hole which
+commands the main entrance to the courtyard. The present beautiful
+little chapel is also the work of Bishop Tunstall. It contains some
+notable carved oak stalls, of earlier date than the chapel itself, which
+were brought from the castle at Bishop Auckland. The carved devices of
+the miserere seats of these stalls are curious and worthy of attention.
+The doors in the gateway of the courtyard are the work of Tunstall's
+time.
+
+Bishop Cosin (1660-1672) found the castle in a dilapidated condition.
+During the Commonwealth it had been sold to the then Lord Mayor of
+London, who used it badly, to say nothing of the ruin caused by the
+Scots. He spent large sums in its restoration. He added the present
+porch or entrance from the courtyard to the great hall. The great
+staircase in the north-west corner of the courtyard is his and bears his
+arms. Within and leading to Tunstall's Gallery is the Black Staircase,
+also the work of Cosin. He enlarged the chapel, and constructed and
+fitted several apartments in the castle, besides several minor works. In
+his will, he says, he spent the greater part of his temporal estate in
+"rebuilding and repaireing the two episcopall Castles of Durham and
+Bishop Auckland." This, he states, cost him seventeen thousand pounds,
+including the furnishing and ornamenting of the chapels, which he did
+"for the use of my successors in those Chappells for ever." Many of the
+agreements between Bishop Cosin and his masons, plasterers, carpenters,
+and painters, from which the exact dates and prices paid for the work
+may be learned, are preserved.
+
+The latest important work at the castle was the rebuilding of the keep,
+in 1840, which was described at that time as "a picturesque ruin." It
+was entirely rebuilt on its original plan. The gateway to the courtyard
+was repaired and modernised by Bishop Barrington, with the existing
+inartistic result.
+
+Durham Castle owes its picturesque appearance to two causes--first, its
+magnificent and commanding position, on a rocky escarpment; and second,
+no doubt, to the many vicissitudes through which it has passed, the
+alterations and additions made necessary by time and constant war, and
+later, the entirely different uses to which the building is put.
+
+[Illustration: Staircase in the Castle.]
+
+It is now chiefly used as a hall of residence for university men and as
+lodging for the Judges of Assize.
+
+The most favourable time for the architectural student to visit the
+castle is during one of the university vacations, otherwise many
+interesting features would be denied him. Many portions (except
+students' chambers) are, however, open to the public every week day.
+
+#The University of Durham.#--From an early date, frequent mention is
+made in the history of the see of Durham, of a college at Oxford called
+the Durham College. Its origin is not exactly known, but by the
+liberality of several bishops and priors its original endowment
+increased, until provision was made for eight fellows and eight
+scholars. This was the case at the time of the suppression of the
+monasteries by King Henry VIII., when, owing to its connection with the
+monastery of Durham, the college was also dissolved. Its revenues, were,
+however, rescued, and in 1541 were handed over by the king to the newly
+created dean and chapter. Thus the matter stood till 1650, when a
+petition was presented to the Protector, showing the great disadvantages
+to the North of England arising from the long distance of Oxford and
+Cambridge, and praying that the houses of the dean and prebendaries
+might be converted into a college. Cromwell took a favourable view of
+the idea, and in a letter to Lenthall, the Speaker, in its support, he
+says:--
+
+    "Truly it seems to me a matter of great concernment and importance,
+    as that which (by the blessing of God) may much conduce to the
+    promotion of learning and piety in these poore, rude, and ignorant
+    parts, there being also many concurring advantages to this place, as
+    pleasantness, and aptness of situation, healthfull aire, and plenty
+    of provisions, which seeme to favour and pleade for theire desires
+    therein."[7]
+
+  [7] Hutchinson, vol. i
+
+Various delays occurred, however, and it was not until 1657 that the
+Lord Protector issued his patent for the erection of the proposed
+college, in a document consisting of twenty-three heads.
+
+The college thus commenced made great progress, and would no doubt have
+continued to do so, but for the constant opposition of the two great
+universities of Oxford and Cambridge. Then followed the Restoration, and
+with it came a reaction against all measures established during the
+Protectorate. This feeling, combined with persistent petitions from the
+universities, soon accomplished the downfall of the College.
+
+Bishop Van Mildert, who was translated to Durham in 1826, during his
+short episcopate saw many changes, not the least of which was the
+successful revival of the scheme for a university. Powers were obtained
+in 1832 for the training of students in divinity and the conferring of
+degrees in other faculties. The new foundation was endowed out of the
+revenues of the cathedral, and the bishop gave up the Castle of Durham
+for the use of the college, besides financial assistance of L1000 for
+the first year and L2000 for the following years until his death in
+1836. The first warden was Dr Charles Thorp, Archdeacon and Canon of
+Durham, but it was provided by an order, on the recommendation of the
+Ecclesiastical Commissioners that in future the office of warden should
+be permanently attached to the deanery, and that a canonry in the
+cathedral be annexed to each of the professorships of Divinity and
+Greek.
+
+The government of the university is in the hands of the dean and
+chapter, and the affairs administered by a warden, senate and
+convocation. A royal charter was obtained in 1837 making the university
+a corporate body with perpetual succession and a common seal.
+
+The university, besides its original schools of arts and divinity, has
+established schools of physical science and medicine, in connection with
+the Durham College of Science at Newcastle-on-Tyne, and has recently
+admitted women students to its courses and lectures.
+
+There are many foundation scholarships and exhibitions in arts,
+classics, mathematics, and theology, besides a long list of private
+foundations and fellowships.
+
+The university consists of one college and one hall. The former,
+University College, occupies the Castle, and the latter, Bishop
+Hatfield's Hall.
+
+It is well supplied with libraries. The university library founded at
+the opening, to which Bishop Van Mildert contributed a valuable
+collection.
+
+The library given in 1855 by the late Dr Martin Routh, president of
+Magdalen College, Oxford.
+
+The library presented by the late Bishop Maltby in 1856, which he
+endowed with L1000.
+
+A library was also bequeathed to the university in 1859 by the late T.M.
+Winterbottom, M.D., of Westoe, South Shields. A large collection of
+books was bequeathed by the late Bishop Lightfoot.
+
+Two other important libraries may here be mentioned, though they do not
+belong to the University--viz. the Chapter Library and Bishop Cosin's
+Library.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+THE CITY
+
+
+Besides the Cathedral and Castle, the City of Durham possesses several
+churches of decided interest to the student of architecture, which
+deserve a brief notice.
+
+The Parish Church of #S. Mary in the North Bailey.#--This small
+church is generally known as S. Mary le Bow, owing to the fact that in
+its original steeple was an arch, through which the roadway passed. This
+steeple fell in 1637, and the ancient structure was allowed to lapse
+into complete ruin. The present church was built in 1685, and its most
+noticeable feature is the open carved screen between the nave and
+chancel erected in 1707. The site of the church is the oldest in the
+city, and some writers have thought it probably identical with that of
+the White Church in which the body of S. Cuthbert was placed during the
+building of the cathedral.
+
+#S. Mary-the-Less# is a small but picturesque church situated in the
+South Bailey, and is of Norman date. Its original architectural
+character is, however, almost entirely lost, owing to extensive
+restorations which took place in 1846-7. The round-headed window now in
+the south wall of the chancel, but formerly in the west wall of the
+nave, is the only remaining original feature. The church is entered by a
+porch on the south side, and consists of a nave and chancel only. Some
+stones in the churchyard, which were removed from their position when
+the church was restored, are carved with chevron ornament, and would
+seem to show that the date of the original structure was the earlier
+part of the twelfth century.
+
+#S. Oswald.#--This church stands on high ground overlooking the river
+Wear, at the head of New Elvet; and is the parish church of the ancient
+borough of Elvet. The first church was erected by Bishop Carileph,
+though the earliest parts of the existing building are of the time of
+Bishop Pudsey, who also built the bridge across the river, known as the
+Elvet Bridge. To this date (about 1190) belongs the eastern part of the
+nave arcade, the arches of which are semi-circular and rest upon tall
+round piers. Early in the fourteenth century a new chancel was built,
+the aisles rebuilt and extended to the west end, and two new arches
+added to the west end of the nave arcades. In the early part of the
+fifteenth century a clerestory and open parapet were added, and a new
+oak roof placed over the nave. This was most probably a hammer-beam
+roof, and was coloured and gilded and decorated with angels holding
+shields. The only parts remaining at the present day are the grotesque
+carved corbels, and the angels. The tower was also constructed at this
+time. In 1834, owing to subsidence of the ground, it became necessary to
+rebuild the south aisle and a large part of the chancel, which caused
+the destruction of much architectural beauty. The open parapet was
+removed, the clerestory windows replaced by the present inferior ones,
+and the fine oak roof destroyed. The east end of the chancel was rebuilt
+in 1864. Special attention should be directed to the fine oak stall-work
+in the chancel, boldly carved in the style of the early part of the
+fifteenth century. The tower, which forms a beautiful and conspicuous
+landmark, is reached by a stone staircase of unusual character. It is
+placed in the thickness of the wall, and is covered in with twenty-four
+gravestones of thirteenth and fourteenth century date, on which may yet
+be seen portions of inscriptions and symbols. Built into the tower was
+part of a Saxon cross, which has now been removed for preservation to
+the dean and chapter library. This cross is interesting as evidence of
+the existence on the same site of a pre-Norman church. The tower was
+carefully restored in 1863. It contains a peal of six bells, which were
+re-cast in 1694, and bear the following inscriptions:--
+
+    1. GLOVIA(?) IN ALTISSMISS(?) DEO PEX FORSTER A
+         VIC CHRISTO HODSON ME FECIT 1694.
+
+    3. DEVM TIMETE PEX FORSTER AM VIC I EVANS C
+         WARDEN CHRISTO HODSON ME FECIT.
+
+    4. REGEM HONORATE PEX FORSTER A M VIC 1694
+         CHRISTOPR HODSON MADE ME I EVANS I S
+         H R.
+
+    5. IBIMUS IN DOMVM DOMINI PEX FORSTER A M VIC
+         CHRISTOPER HODSON MADE ME 1694 IO EVANS
+         CHV W.
+
+    6. OSVALDUS FLOREM MEREOR QVIA GESTO TENOREM
+         PEX FORSTER AM VIC IO EVANS IS WH RW
+         CW 94.
+
+The second bell was cast in 1885.
+
+#S. Margaret's# Parish Church is situated on the steep hill called
+Crossgate. It is opposite to and across the river from the Castle, and
+from its churchyard a fine western view of the cathedral is obtained.
+The church was built during the early part of the episcopate of Bishop
+Pudsey (1154) and was formerly a chapel under the church of S. Oswald.
+Here again alterations and restorations have obliterated much that
+originally existed. The church at present consists of a nave and aisles,
+a chancel with aisles, a western tower, and north and south porches. The
+existing portions of the original church are the chancel arch, and the
+south arcade of four bays, together with part of the clerestory and the
+north wall of the chancel. The arcade consists of low massive circular
+piers, with cushion capitals and plain chamfered abaci, which support
+semi-circular arches of one order also chamfered.
+
+The north arcade is also Norman, and very similar in character to that
+of S. Oswald. No doubt it is of the same date, and probably built by the
+same architect. The chancel arch has two orders, recessed square and
+chamfered, with a plain chamfered hood mould. On both north and south
+sides of the arch is a squint. With the exception of two which are
+Norman, the windows are nearly all of modern date. One is in the north
+wall of the chancel and is widely splayed. It is not seen on the outside
+owing to the vestry which now covers it. The other, a very interesting
+specimen, is situated over the western bay of the south arcade, and is a
+portion of the original clerestory and the earliest known clerestory
+window in the county. The roof of the nave is of oak, and a good
+specimen of Perpendicular work. The tower is of fifteenth-century date,
+and exceedingly plain externally, but vaulted in the interior. It opens
+on to the church by an arch which has been inserted in the west wall.
+There is an interesting font of Frosterley marble, which is apparently
+of the same date as the chancel. The vestry which is raised above the
+level of the church floor is of the fifteenth century, and has on its
+gable the original gable cross.
+
+[Illustration: The Cathedral and Castle, from the North.]
+
+The Parish Church of #S. Giles# occupies a very elevated position at
+the north-east end of the city, and commands one of the finest views of
+the cathedral, castle, and city, which it is possible to obtain. It was
+built by Bishop Flambard and finished as early as 1112; but the north
+wall of the nave, containing two small Norman windows, widely splayed
+inwards, and a walled-up doorway is all that remains of this early
+church. The chancel is of later Norman of the time of Pudsey. Both
+within and without a bold chamfered string course runs round the
+chancel. On the south side is a semi-circular headed window, with a
+carved dripstone and nook shafts, the capitals of which bear a similar
+character to those in the Galilee Chapel of the cathedral. In the north
+wall of the chancel is the priests' door, now walled up, and the corbels
+and springers of the original chancel arch built by Pudsey. The present
+arch was erected in 1876. In 1414 considerable alterations were made
+during the episcopate of Bishop Langley, when the walls of the nave were
+raised, the upper stage of the tower built, and the west window
+inserted. The font is a fine stone bowl resting on a shaft, and is
+undoubtedly of the time of Flambard. The chancel contains some monuments
+of the Tempest and Heath families, who were the ancestors of the
+Marchioness of Londonderry, patroness of the church and parish of S.
+Giles. The tower contains three bells, the first and second of which are
+pre-Reformation and the third bears the date 1646.
+
+On the north side of Gilesgate near to the North-Eastern goods station,
+are the ruins of the little #Chapel of S. Mary Magdalen#, of which
+only a small portion remains. At the west end of the north and south
+walls are two doorways, the latter walled up. Portions of the east
+window are still in position, but it would appear to have been of
+earlier date than the surrounding walls, and probably had been brought
+from some other building. In the interior are the remains of a
+Frosterley marble font, and a gable cross of thirteenth-century date is
+in the custody of the dean and chapter. The chapel was 43 feet by 161/2
+feet wide. It is supposed to have been founded by Sir John Fitz
+Alexander. In 1370 it was almost entirely rebuilt, and again in 1449, on
+a site near the original one. The reason for this was the moisture of
+the ground, which caused the foundations to become insecure. The
+government was in the hands of the almoner of the cathedral, who
+distributed doles to the poor. The chapel was used as a place of worship
+until nearly the end of the seventeenth century, when, owing to its
+ruinous condition, services were finally discontinued.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+[Illustration: PLAN AND DIMENSIONS.]
+
+PRINCIPAL DIMENSIONS OF THE CATHEDRAL
+
+                                       Feet. Inches.
+Length of Nave                           201   0
+Width of Nave                             39   0
+Width of Nave Aisles                      21   0
+Length of North Transept                  66   0
+Length of South Transept                  66   0
+Width of Transepts                        37   0
+Length of Choir                          132   6
+Width of Choir                            39   6
+Width of Choir Aisles                     19   0
+Length of Nine Altars Chapel             131   0
+Width of Nine Altars Chapel               38   6
+Height of Vaulting of Nine Altars Chapel  77   0
+Height of Vaulting of Choir               74   6
+Height of Vaulting of Nave                72   0
+Height of Vaulting of Lantern            155   0
+Width of Lantern E. to W.                 40   6
+Width of Lantern N. to S.                 39   0
+Height of Tower Arches                    68   6
+Length of Galilee Chapel                  77   0
+Width of Galilee                          49   0
+Height of Western Towers                 144   6
+Height of Central Tower                  218   0
+Total length of Church (interior)        469   6
+Thickness of Wall at West End              8   0
+
+AREA                               44,400 sq. ft.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+Transcriber's Notes:
+
+1. Words and phrases which were italicized in the original have been
+   surrounded by underscores ('_') in this version. Words or phrases
+   which were bolded have been surrounded by pound signs ('#').
+
+2. Obvious printer's errors have been corrected without note.
+
+3. Inconsistencies in hyphenation or the spelling of proper names, and
+   dialect or obsolete word spelling, has been maintained as in the
+   original.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral
+Church of Durham, by J. E. Bygate
+
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